Library / Drinking / Chocolate: or, An Indian Drinke
CHOCOLATE:
OR,
An Indian Drinke.
By the wise and Moderate use whereof,
Health is preserved, Sicknesse
Diverted, and Cured, especially the
Plague of the Guts; vulgarly called
The New Disease; Fluxes, Consumptions,
& Coughs of the Lungs, with sundry
other desperate Diseases. By it
also, Conception is Caused,
the Birth Hastened and
facilitated, Beauty
Gain'd and continued.
Written Originally in Spanish, by Antonio Colmenero
of Ledesma, Doctor in Physicke,
and faithfully rendred in the English,
By Capt. JAMES WADSWORTH.
LONDON,
Printed by J. G. for Iohn Dakins, dwelling
neare the Vine Taverne in Holborne,
where this Tract, together with the
Chocolate it selfe, may be had
at reasonable rates. 1652
TO THE GENTRY OF The ENGLISH Nation.
Sirs,
_The ensuing Tract, I, many yeares since Translated out of the
Originall Spanish, and Dedicated to the Right Honorable Edward
Lord Conway, &c. by whose Noble Patronage, the Confection
whereof it Treats, together with it selfe, were first admitted into
the English Court, where they received the Approbation of the most
Noble and Iuditious those dayes afforded. Since which time, it hath
beene universally sought for, and thirsted after by people of all
Degrees (especially those of the Female sex) either for the Pleasure
therein Naturally Residing, to Cure, and divert Diseases; Or else to
supply some Defects of Nature, wherein it chalenges a speciall
Prerogative above all other Medicines whatsoever._
_The Author thereof was one Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma, who
sometimes lived in the West Indies, where it is very much used, and
held in great esteeme, untill this day; as also in Spaine, Italy,
and Flanders, and admired by the most learned Doctors of all those
Nations._
_As for the Name [Chocolate] it is an Indian word, compounded of
Ate (as some say,) or (as others) Atle, which in the _Mexican
Language_, signifieth Water; And Choco, the noise that the Water
(wherein the Chocolate is put) maketh, when it is stirred in a Cup,
untill it Bubble and rise unto a Froth: And may be called in English
A Compounded, or Confectioned drinke._
_The Confection it selfe, consists of severall Ingredients according
to the different Constitutions of those that use it: the Principall of
which is called Cacao, [a kind of Nut, or kernell, bigger then a
great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the Tree of Cacao]
containing in it the Quality of the Foure Elements, as will appeare in
the following Discourse._
_The vertues thereof are no lesse various, then Admirable. For,
besides that it preserves Health, and makes such as drink it often,
Fat, and Corpulent, faire and Amiable, it vehemently Incites to
Venus, and causeth Conception in women, hastens and facilitates
their Delivery: It is an excellent help to Digestion, it cures
Consumptions, and the Cough of the Lungs, the New Disease, or Plague
of the Guts, and other Fluxes, the Green Sicknesse, Jaundise, and all
manner of Inflamations, Opilations, and Obstructions. It quite takes
away the Morphew, Cleanseth the Teeth, and sweetneth the Breath,
Provokes Urine, Cures the Stone, and strangury, Expells Poison, and
preserves from all infectious Diseases._
_But I shall not assume to enumerate all the vertues of this
Confection: for that were Impossible, every day producing New and
Admirable effects in such as drinke it: I shall rather referre to the
Testimony of those Noble Personages who are known constantly to use
and receive constant and manifold benefits by it, having hereby no
other Aime then the Generall good of this Common-wealth (whereof I am
a Faithfull Member) and to be esteemed (as really I am)_
Gentlemen,
Westminster Your Affectionate Friend
Decemb. 20. to love and serve you,
1651.
Don Diego de Vadesforte.
THE TRANSLATOR,
To every Individuall Man,
and Woman, Learn'd, or unlearn'd,
Honest, or Dishonest: In the
due Praise of Divine
CHOCOLATE.
Doctors lay by your Irksome Books
And all ye Petty-Fogging Rookes
Leave Quacking; and Enucleate
The vertues of our Chocolate.
Let th' Universall Medicine
(Made up of Dead-mens Bones and Skin,)
Be henceforth Illegitimate,
And yeild to Soveraigne-Chocolate.
Let Bawdy-Baths be us'd no more;
Nor Smoaky-Stoves but by the whore
Of Babilon: since Happy-Fate
Hath Blessed us with Chocolate.
Let old Punctaeus Greaze his shooes
With his Mock-Balsome: and Abuse
No more the World: But Meditate
The Excellence of Chocolate.
Let Doctor Trigg (who so Excells)
No longer Trudge to Westwood-Wells:
For though that water Expurgate,
'Tis but the Dreggs of Chocolate.
Let all the Paracelsian Crew
Who can Extract Christian from Jew;
Or out of Monarchy, A State,
Breake `all their Stills for Chocolate.
Tell us no more of Weapon-Salve,
But rather Doome us to a Grave:
For sure our wounds will Ulcerate,
Unlesse they're wash'd with Chocolate.
The Thriving Saint, who will not come
Within a Sack-Shop's Bowzing-Roome
(His Spirit to Exhilerate)
Drinkes Bowles (at home) of Chocolate.
His Spouse when she (Brimfull of Sense)
Doth want her due Benevolence,
And Babes of Grace would Propagate,
Is alwayes Sipping Chocolate.
The Roaring-Crew of Gallant-Ones
Whose Marrow Rotts within their Bones:
Their Bodyes quickly Regulate,
If once but Sous'd in Chocolate.
Young Heires that have more Land then Wit,
When once they doe but Tast of it,
Will rather spend their whole Estate,
Then weaned be from Chocolate.
The Nut-Browne-Lasses of the Land
Whom Nature vayl'd in Face and Hand,
Are quickly Beauties of High-Rate,
By one small Draught of Chocolate.
Besides, it saves the Moneys lost
Each day in Patches, which did cost
Them deare, untill of Late
They found this Heavenly Chocolate.
Nor need the Women longer grieve
Who spend their Oyle, yet not conceive,
For 'tis a Helpe-Immediate,
If such but Lick of Chocolate.
Consumptions too (be well assur'd)
Are no lesse soone then soundly cur'd:
(Excepting such as doe Relate
Unto the Purse) by Chocolate.
Nay more: It's vertue is so much,
That if a Lady get a Touch,
Her griefe it will Extenuate,
If she but smell of Chocolate.
The Feeble-Man, whom Nature Tyes
To doe his Mistresse's Drudgeries;
O how it will his minde Elate,
If shee allow him Chocolate!
'Twill make Old women Young and Fresh;
Create New-Motions of the Flesh,
And cause them long for you know what,
If they but Tast of Chocolate.
There's ne're a Common Counsell-Man,
Whose Life would Reach unto a Span,
Should he not Well-Affect the State,
And First and Last Drinke Chocolate.
Nor e're a Citizen's Chast wife,
That ever shall prolong her Life,
(Whilst open stands Her Posterne-Gate)
Unlesse she drinke of Chocolate.
Nor dost the Levite any Harme,
It keepeth his Devotion warme,
And eke the Hayre upon his Pate,
So long as he drinkes Chocolate.
Both High and Low, both Rich and Poore
My Lord, my Lady, and his --
With all the Folkes at Billingsgate,
Bow, Bow your Hamms to Chocolate.
Don Diego de Vadesforte.
To the Author,
Great Don, Grandee of Spaine, Illostrissimo of Venice, High and
mighty King of Candie, Great Bashaw of Babilon, Prince of the
Moone, Lord of the Seven Starres, Governour of the Castle of
Comfort, Sole Admirall of the Floating Caravan, Author of Th'
Europian Mercury, Chiefe Generall and Admirall of the Invisible
Fleet and Army of Terra Incognita,
Cap. James Wadsworth.
_The Allowance of Melchor De Lara, Physitian Generall for the
Kingdome of Spaine._
I Doctor Melchor de Lara Physitian Generall for the Kingdom of
Spaine, at the command of Don John de Velasco, and Asebedo,
Vicar Generall of Madrid, have seene this Treatise of Chocolate,
composed by Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma; which is very learned,
and curious, and therefore it ought to be Licensed for the Presse; it
containing nothing contrary to good manners; and cannot but be very
pleasing to those, who are affected to Chocolate. In testimony
whereof, I have subscribed my Name, in Madrid the 23. day of
August. 1631.
Melchor de Lara.
The Testimoniall of John de Mena, Doctor and Physitian to the King
of Spaine.
_I John de Mena, Physitian to his Majesty, and one of the Counsell
Generall of the Inquisition, have seene this Treatise of Chocolate
(composed by Doctor Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma) by command of
the Supreame Royall Court of Justice: which containeth nothing
contrary to good Manners, and the Subject if very learnedly handled,
and with great Iudgement; and no doubt, but it will give much pleasure
and content to all those, who are affected to Chocolate; and
therefore may be printed: And in confirmation of this truth, I have
hereto subscribed my Name the 17. of Septemb. 1631._
John de Mena Doctor in Physicke.
To the Reader.
The number is so great of those, who, in these times, drinke
Chocolate, that not only in the Indies, where this kind of Drink
hath its originall; but it is also much used in Spain, Italy and
Flanders, and particularly at the Cour. And many doe speake diversly
of it, according to the benefit, or hurt, they receive from it: Some
saying, that it is stopping: Others, and those the greater part, that
it makes one fat: Others, that the use of it strengthens the stomacke:
Others, that it heates, and burns them: And others say, that although
they take it every houre, and in the Dogdayes, yet they finde
themselves well with it. And therefore my desire is, to take this
paines, for the pleasure, and profit of the publicke; endeavouring to
accommodate it to the content of all, according to the variety of
those things, wherewith it may be mixt; that so every man may make
choise of that, which shal be most agreeable to his disposition. I
have not seene any, who hath written any thing, concerning this
drinke; but onely a Physitian of Marchena, who (as it seemes) writ
onely by Relation; holding an opinion, that the Chocolate is
stopping, because that Cacao (the principall Ingredient of which it
is made) is cold, and dry. But because this onely reason, may not have
power to keepe some from the use of it, who are troubled with
Opilations; I thinke fit to defend this Confection, with
Philosophicall Reasons, against any whosoever will condemne this
Drinke, which is so wholesome, and so good, knowing how to make the
Paste in that manner, that it may be agreeable to divers dispositions,
in the moderate drinking of it. And so, with all possible brevity,
shall distinguish and divide this Treatise into foure poynts, or
Heads. In the first place I shall declare, what Chocolate is; and
what are the Qualities of Cacao, and the other Ingredients of this
Confection; where I shall treate of the Receipt set downe by the
aforesaid Author of Marchena, and declare my opinion concerning the
same. The second point shall treate of the Quality, which resulteth
out of the mixture of these Simples, which are put into it. In the
third place the manner of Compounding; and how many wayes they use to
drink it in the Indies. In the fourth, and last place I shall treat
of the Quantity; and how it ought to be taken; at what time; and by
what persons.
The first Point.
Concerning the first Point, I say, that Chocolate is a name of the
Indians; which in our vulgar Castilian, we may call a certaine
Confection, in which (among the Ingredients) the principall Basis,
and Foundation, is the Cacao; of whose Nature and Quality it is
necessary first to treat: And therefore I say, according to the common
received opinion, that it is cold, and dry, à prædominio; that is to
say, that though it be true, that every Simple containes in it the
Qualities of the foure Elements, in the action, and re-action, which
it hath in it, yet there results another distinct quality, which we
call Complexion.
This Quality or Complexion, which ariseth of this Mixture, is not
alwayes one, and the same; neither hath it the effect in all the
mixtures, but they may be varied nine wayes; four Simple, from
whence one onely quality doth abound; and foure Compounded, from
whence two Symbolizing qualities are predominant; and one other, which
we call ad pondus, which is of all these fore-said qualities, which
are in æquilibrio, that is to say, in equall measure and degree.
Of all these the Complexion of Cacao is composed, since there arise
two qualities, which are cold, and dry; and in the substance, that
rules them, hath it restringent and obstructive, of the nature of
the Element of the Earth. And then, as it is a Mixed, and not a
simple Element, it must needs have parts correspondent to the rest of
the Elements; and particularly, it partakees (and that, not a little)
of those, which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, Heat and
Moysture, which are governed by the Unctious parts; there being drawne
out of the Cacao much Butter, which, in the Indies I have seene
drawne out if it, for the Face, by the Criollas.
It may Philosophically be objected, in this manner: _Two contrary
Qualities, and Disagreeing, cannot be in gradu intenso, in one and
the same Subject: Cacao is cold and drie, in predominency:
Therefore, it cannot have the qualities contrary to those; which are
Heat, and Moysture. The first Proposition is most certaine, and
grounded upon good Philosophy: The second is consented unto, by all:
The third, which is the Conclusion, is regular._
It cannot be denyed, but that the Argument is very strong, and these
reasons being considered by him of Marchena, have made him affirme,
that Chocolate is Obstructive; it seeming to be contrary to
Philosophy, that in it there should be found Heat and Moysture,
in gradu intenso; and to be so likewise in Cold and Dry.
To this, there are two things to be answered: One, that he never saw
the experience of drawing out the Butter, which I have done; and that
when the Chocolate is made without adding any thing to the dryed
Powder, which is incorporated, onely by beating it well together, and
is united, and made into a Paste, which is a signe, that there is a
moist, and glutinous part, which, of necessity, must correspond with
the Element of Aire.
The other reason, we will draw from Philosophy; affirming that, in the
Cacao, there are different substances. In the one, that is to say,
in that, which is not so fat, it hath a greater quantity of the Oylie,
then of the earthie Substance; and in the fatter part, it hath more of
the earthy than of the Oily substance. In these there is Heate and
Moysture in predominancy; and in the other, cold and dry.
Notwithstanding that it is hard to be believed, that in one and the
same substance, and so little of the Cacao, it can have substances
so different: To the end that it may appeare more easie, clear, and
evident, first we see it in the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and
soluble parts, and parts which are Binding, Cold and Dry, which have a
vertue to strengthen, binde, and stop the loosenesse of the Belly: I
say also, that he that sees and considers the steele, so much of the
nature of the earth, as being heavy, thick, cold, and dry; it seemes
to be thought unproper for the curing of Opilations, but rather to be
apt to encrease them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against
them.
This difficulty is cleared thus, that though it be true, that it hath
much of the Earthy part; yet it hath also parts of Sulphur, and of
quick silver, which doe open, and disopilate; neither doth it so,
untill it be helped by Art, as it is ground, stirred, and made fine,
in the preparing of it; the Sulphurous parts, and those of
quick-silver, being thinne, active, and penetrative, they mingle, at
the last with those parts, which are Earthy and astringent: Insomuch,
that they being mingled after this manner one with another, we cannot
now say, that the steele is astringent, but rather, that it is
penetrative, attenuating and opening. Let us prove this Doctrine by
Authorities; and let the first be from Gallen, l. 3. of the
qualities of Simples, c. 14. Where, first of all he teacheth, that
almost all those Medicines, which, to our sence, seeme to be Simple,
are notwithstanding naturally Compounded, containing in themselves
contrary qualities; and that is to say, a quality to expell, and to
retaine; to incrassate, and attenuate; to rarifie, and to condense.
Neither are we to wonder at it, it being understood, that in every
fore-said Medicine, there is a quality to heat, and to coole; to
moisten and to dry. And whatsoever Medicine it be, it hath in it,
thick, and thinne parts; rare, and dense; soft, and hard. And in the
fifteenth Chapter following, in the same Book, he puts an example of
the Broth of a Cock, which moves the Belly; and the flesh hath the
vertue to bind. He puts also the example of the Aloes, which if it
be washt, looseth the Purgative vertue; or that which it hath, is but
weake.
That this differing vertue, and faculty, is found in divers
substances, or parts of simple Medicaments, Gallen shewes in the
first Booke of his simple Medicines, and the seventeenth Chapter,
bringing the example of Milke; in which, three substances are found,
and separated, that is to say, the substance of Cheese, which hath the
vertue to stop the Fluxe of the Belly; and the substance of Whay,
which is purging; and Butter, as it is expressed in the said Gallen,
Cap. 15. Also we finde in Wine which is in the Must, three
substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner
substance, which is the flower, and may be called the scum, or froath:
and a third substance which we properly call Wine; And every one of
these substances, containes in it selfe divers qualities, and vertues;
in the colour, in the smell, and in other Accidents.
Aristotle in the fourth Book of the Meteors and the first Chapter,
treating of Putrefaction, he found the same substances; and in the
second Chapter next following, where he that is curious may read it.
And also by the Doctrine of Galen, and of Aristotle, divers
substances are attributed to every of the mixt under one and the same
forme and quantity; which is very conformable to reason, if we
consider, that every Aliment be it never so simple, begets, and
produceth in the liver, foure humours, not onely differing in temper,
but also in substance; and begets more or lesse of that humour,
according as that Aliment hath more or fewer parts corresponding to
the substance of that humour, which is most ingendred. And so in cold
diseases, we give warme nourishment; and cold nourishment, in hot
diseases.
From which evident examples, and many others, which we might produce
to this purpose, we may gather, that, when we grind and stir the
Cacao, the divers parts, which Nature hath given it, doe
artificially, and intimately mixe themselves one with another; and so
the unctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy (as we
have said of the steele) represses, and leaves them not so binding, as
they were before; but rather with a mediocritie, more inclining to the
warme, and moist temper of the Aire, then to the cold and dry of the
Earth; as it doth appeare when it is made fit to drinke; that you
scarce give it two turnes with the Molinet when there riseth a fatty
scumme: by which you may see how much it partaketh of the Oylie part.
From which doctrine I gather, that the Author of Marchena, was in an
errour, who, writing of Chocolate, saith that it causeth Opilations,
because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction were not
corrected, by the intimate mixing of one part with another, by meanes
of the grinding, as is said before. Besides, it having so many
ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of necessity have this
effect; that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not to binde; and,
indeed, there is no cause of bringing more examples, or producing more
reasons, for this truth, then that which we see in the Cacao it
self: which, if it be not stirred, and compounded, as aforesaid, to
make the Chocolate. But eating of it, as it is in the fruite, as the
Criollas eate it in the Indies, it doth notably obstruct, and
cause stoppings; for no other cause but this, that the divers
substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled by the
mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which we have
spoken of before.
Besides, our Adversary should have considered, and called to his
memory, the first rudiments of Philosophy, that _à dicto secundum
quid, ad dictum simpliciter, non valet consequentia_; As it is not
enough to say, the Black-a-Moore is white, because his teeth are
white; for he may be blacke, though he hath white teeth; and so it is
not enough to say, that the Cacao is stopping; and therefore the
Confection, which is made of it, is also stopping.
The Tree, which beares this fruit, is so delicate; and the earth,
where it growes, is so extreme hot, that to keepe the tree from being
consumed by the Sun, they first plant other trees; and when they are
growne up to a good height, then they plant the Cacao trees; that
when it first shewes it selfe above the ground, those trees which are
already growne, may shelter it from the Sunne; and the fruit doth not
grow naked, but ten or twelve of them are in one Gorde or Cod, which
is of the bignesse of a greate black Figge, or bigger, and of the same
forme, and colour.
There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a gray
colour, inclining towards red; the other is broader and bigger, which
they call Patlaxte, and this is white, and more drying; whereby it
causeth watchfulnesse, and drives away sleepe, and therefore it is not
so usefull, as the ordinary. This shall suffice to be said of the
Cacao.
And as for the rest of the ingredients, which make our Chocolaticall
Confection, there is notable variety; because some doe put into it
black Pepper, and also Tauasco[A]; which is not proper, because it
is so hot and dry; but onely for one, who hath a very cold Liver. And
of this opinion, was a certaine Doctor of the University of Mexico,
of whom a Religious man of good credit told me, that he finding the
ordinary round Pepper was not fit to bring his purpose about, and to
the end, he might discover, whether the long red pepper were more
proper, he made triall upon the liver of a Sheepe; and putting the
ordinary pepper on one side, and the red pepper[B] on the other, after
24 hours, the part, where the ordinary pepper lay, was dryed up; and
the other part continued moist, as if nothing had bin thrown upon it.
[A] A red roote like madder.
[B] Chile.
The Receipt of him who wrote at Marchena, is this: Of Cacaos, 700;
of white Sugar, one pound and a halfe; Cinnamon, 2. ounces; of long
red pepper, 14. of Cloves, halfe an ounce: Three Cods of the Logwood
or Campeche tree; or in steade of that, the weight of 2. Reals, or a
shilling of Anniseeds; as much of Agiote, as will give the colour,
which is about the quantity of a Hasell-nut. Some put in Almons,
kernells of Nuts, and Orenge-flower-water.
Concerning this Receipt I shall first say, This shooe will not fit
every foote; but for those, who have diseases, or are inclining to be
infirme, you may either adde, or take away, according to the
necessity, and temperature of every one: and I hold it not amisse,
that Sugar be put into it, when it is drunke, so that it be according
to the quantity I shall hereafter set downe. And sometimes they make
Tablets of the Sugar, and the Chocolate together: which they doe
onely to please the Pallats, as the Dames of Mexico doe use it; and
they are there sold in shops, and are confected and eaten like other
sweet-meats. For the Cloves, which are put into this drinke, by the
Author aforesaid, the best Writers of this Composition use them not;
peradventure upon this reason: that although they take away the ill
savour of the mouth, they binde; as a learned Writer hath exprest in
these verses:
Foetorem emendat oris Cariophilia foedum;
Constringunt ventrem, primaque membra juvant.
_Cloves doe perfume a stincking Breath, and Bind
The Belly; Hence the prime members comfort find._
And because they are binding (and hot and dry in the third degree)
they must not be used, though they help the chiefe parts of
Concoction, which are the Stomacke and the Liver, as appeares by the
Verses before recited.
The Huskes or Cods of Logwood, or Campeche, are very good, and smell
like Fennell; and every one puts in of these, because they are not
very hot; though it excuse not the putting in of Annis-seed, as sayes
the Author of this Receipt; for there is no Chocolate without it,
because it is good for many cold diseases, being hot in the third
degree; and to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao; and that it may
appeare, it helpes the indisposition of Cold parts, I will cite the
Verses of one curious in this Art:
Morbosus renes, vesicam, guttura, vulnam,
Intestina, jecur, cumque lyene caput
Confortat, variisque Anisum subdita morbis
Membra: istud tantum vim leve semen habet.
_The Reyns, the Bladder, throat, & thing between--
Enatrailes and Liver, with the Head, and spleen
And other Parts, by [C] it are comforted:
So great a vertue's in that little seed._
[C] Annis.
The quantity of a Nut of the Achiote[D] is too little to colour the
quantity made according to his Receipt; and therefore, he that makes
it, may put in it, as much as he thinkes fit.
[D] Ta-asco.
Those, who adde Almons, and Nuts, doe not ill; because they give it
more body and substance then Maiz or Paniso[E], which others use;
and for my part, I should always put it into Chocolate, for Almonds
(besides what I have said of them before) are moderately hot, and have
a thinne juice; but you must not use new Almons, as a learned Author
sayes in these Verses.
[E] A graine like Millet.
Dat modice calidum dulcisque Amigdala succum,
Et tenuem; inducunt plurima damna nova.
_New Almonds yeild a Hot and slender juice,
But bring new mischiefs by too often use._
And the small Nuts are not ill for our purpose; for they have almost
the temper, which the Almons have; onely because they are dryer, they
come nearer the temper of Choler; and doe therefore strengthen the
Belly, and the Stomacke, being dryed: for so they must be used for the
Confection; and they preserve the head from those vapours, which rise
from the Belly: as it appeares by the said Author in these Verses.
Bilis Avellanam sequitur; sed roborat alvum
Ventris, & a fumis liberat assa caput.
_Filberds breed Chollar, Th' Belly Fortifie,
Benzoin the Head frees from Fumosity._
And therefore they are proper for such as are troubled with
ventuosities, and Hypochondriacall vapours, which offend the brain,
and there cause such troublesome dreames, and sad imaginations.
Those who mixe Maiz or Paniso in the Chocolate doe very ill;
because those graines doe beget a very melancholly humour: as the same
Author expresseth in these Verses.
Crassa melancholicum præstant tibi Panica succum
Siccant, si penas membra, gelantque foris.
_Grosse Eares of Corne have Cholorique juice (no doubt)
Which dries, if taken inward; cooles without._
It is also apparantly windy; and those which mixe it in this
Confection, doe it onely for their profit, by encreasing the
quantity of the Chocolate; because every Fanega or measure of [F]
Grani containing about a Bushell and a halfe, is sold for eight
shillings, and they sell this Confection for foure shillings a
pound, which is the ordinary price of the Chocolate.
[F] Maiz, or Indian Wheat
The Cinamon is hot and dry in the third degree; it provokes Urine,
and helps the Kidneys and Reynes of those who are troubled with cold
diseases; and it is good for the eyes; and in effect, it is cordiall;
as appeares by the Author of these Verses.
Commoda & urinæ Cinnamomum, & renibus
Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat. (affert:
_Cinnamon helps the Reines and Urine well,
It cleares the Eyes, and Poison doth expell._
The Achiote hath a piercing attenuating quality, as appeareth by the
common practice of the Physitians in the Indies, experienced daily
in the effects of it, who doe give it to their Patients, to cut, and
attenuate the grosse humours, which doe cause shortnesse of breath,
and stopping of urine; and so it may be used for any kind of
Opilations; for we give it for the stoppings, which are in the breast,
or in the Region of the belly, or any other part of the Body.
And concerning the long red Peper, there are foure sorts of it. One is
called Chilchotes: the other very little, which they call
Chilterpin; and these two kinds, are very quicke and biting. The
other two are called Tonalchiles, and these are moderately hot; for
they are eaten with bread, as they eate other fruits, & they are of a
yellow colour; and they grow onely about the Townes, which are in, and
adjoyning to the Lake of Mexico. The other Pepper is called
Chilpaclagua, which hath a broad huske, and this is not so biting as
the first; nor so gentle as the last, and is that, which is usually
put into the Chocolate.
There are also other ingredients, which are used in this Confection.
One called Mechasuchil; and another which they call Vinecaxtli,
which in the Spanish they call Orejuelas, which are sweet smelling
Flowers, Aromaticall and hot. And the Mechasuchil hath a Purgative
quality; for in the Indies they make a purging portion of it. In
stead of this, in Spaine they put into the Confection, powder of
Alexandria, for opening the Belly.
I have spoken of all these Ingredients, that every one may make choise
of those which please him best, or are most proper for infirmities.
The second Point.
As concerning the second point, I say, as I have said before, that
though it be true, that the Cacao is mingled with all these
Ingredients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity of
Cacao, then of all the rest of the Ingredients, which serve to
temper the coldnesse of the Cacao: Just as when we seek, of two
Medicines of contrary qualities, to compound one, which shall be of a
moderate temper: In the same manner doth result the same action and
re-action of the cold parts of the Cacao, and of the hot parts of
the other ingredients, which makes the Chocolate of so moderate a
quality, that it differs very little from a mediocrity; and when there
is not put in any ordinary pepper, or Cloves, but onely a little
Annisseed (as I shall shew hereafter) we may boldly say, that it is
very temperate. And this may be proved by reason, and experience:
(supposing that which Gallen sayes, to be true, that every mixt
Medicine, warmeth the cold, and cooleth the hot; bringing the examples
of Oyle of Roses.) By experience, I say, that in the Indies (as is
the custom of that countrey) I comming in a heat to visite a sick
person, and asking water to refresh me, they perswaded mee to take a
Draught of Chocolate; which quencht my thirst: & in the morning (if
I took it fasting) it did warme and comfort my stomack. Now let us
prove it by reason. Wee have already proved, that all the parts of the
Cacao are not cold. For we have made it appeare that the unctuous
parts, which are many, be all hot, or temperate: then, though it be
true, that the quantity of the Cacao is greater than of all the rest
of the ingredients, yet the cold parts are at the most, not halfe so
many as the hot; and if for all this they should be more, yet by
stirring, & mangling of the warme unctuous parts, they are much
qualified. And, on the other side, it being mixt with the other
Ingredients, which are hot in the second and third degree, being the
predominant quality, it must needs be brought to a mediocrity. Like as
two men, who shake hands, the one being hot, and the other cold, the
one hand borrows heat, and the other is made colder; and in
conclusion, neither hand retaines the cold, or heat it had before, but
both of them remain more temperate. So like-wise two men, who go to
wrestle, at the first they are in their full vigour and strength; but
after they have strugled a while, their force lessens by degrees, till
at last they are both much weaker, than when they began to wrestle.
And Aristotle was also of this opinion in his fourth Booke of the
Nature of Beasts, cap. 3. Where he sayes, that every Agent suffers
with the patient; as that which cuts, is made dul by the thing it
cuts; that which warmes, cooles it selfe; and that which thrusts, or
forceth forward, is in some sort driven bake it selfe.
From whence I gather, that it is better to use Chocolate, after it
hath beene made some time, a Moneth at the least. I believe this time
to be necessary, for breaking the contrary qualities of the severall
Ingredients, and to bring the Drinke to a moderate temper. For, as it
alwayes falls out at the first, that every contrary will have its
predominancy, and will worke his owne effects, Nature not liking well
to be heated and cooled, at the same time. And this is the cause why
Gallen in his twelfth Booke of Method, doth advise not to use
Philonium, till after a yeare, or, at the least, six moneths;
because it is a composition made of Opium (which is cold in the
fourth degree) and of Pepper, and other Ingredients, which are hot in
the third degree. This Theorum, and Doctrine, is made good by the
practise, which some have made, of whom I have asked, what Chocolate
did best agree with them? and they have affirmed, that the best is
that which hath beene made some moneths: and that the new doth hurt by
loosening the Stomack; And, in my opinion, the reason of it is, that
the unctuous or fat parts, are not altogether corrected, by the earthy
parts of the Cacao. And this I shall thus prove; for, as I shall
declare hereafter, if you make the Chocolate boyle, when you drinke
it, the boyling of it divides that fat and oyly part; and that makes a
relaxation in the Stomacke in the old Chocolate, as well as if it
were new.
So that I conclude in this second point, that the _Chocolaticall
Confection_ is not so cold as the Cacao, nor so hot as the rest of
the Ingredients; but there results from the action and re-action of
these Ingredients, a moderate temper which may be good, both for the
cold and hot stomacks, being taken moderately, as shall be declared
hereafter; and it having beene made a moneth at the least; as is
already proved. And so I know not why any many having made experience
of this Confection (which is composed, as it ought to be, for every
particular) should speake ill of it. Besides, where it is so much
used, the most, if not all, as well in the Indies, as in Spain,
finde, it agreeth well with them. He of Merchena had no ground in
saying, that it did cause Opilations. For, if it were so, the Liver
being obstructed, it would extenuate its subject; and by experience,
we see to the contrary, that it makes fat; the reason whereof I shall
shew hereafter. And this shall suffice for the second Point.
The third Point.
Having treated in the first poynt, of the definition of Chocolate,
the quality of the Cacao, and of the other Ingredients; and in the
second Point, of the Complexion, which results from the mixture of
them; There remaines now in the third poynt, to shew the way how to
mingle them: And first I will bring the best Receipt, and the most to
the purpose, that I could find out; although it be true which I have
said, that one Receipt cannot be given, which shall be proper for all;
that is to be understood of those, who are sick; for those that are
strong, and in health, this may serve: and for the other (as I have
said in the conclusion of the first Poynt) every one may make choyse
of the Ingredients, as they may be usefull, to this, or that part of
his body.
The Receipt is this.
To every 100. Cacaos, you must put two cods of the[G] long red
Pepper, of which I have spoken before, and are called in the Indian
Tongue, Chilparlagua; and in stead of those of the Indies, you may
take those of Spaine which are broadest, & least hot. One handfull
of Annis-seed Orejuelas, which are otherwise called Pinacaxlidos:
and two of the flowers, called Mechasuchil, if the Belly be bound.
But in stead of this, in Spaine, we put in six Roses of Alexandria
beat to Powder: One Cod of Campeche, or Logwood: Two Drams of
Cinamon; Almons, and Hasle-Nuts, of each one Dozen: Of white Sugar,
halfe a pound: of Achiote enough to give it the colour. And if you
cannot have those things, which come from the Indies, you may make
it with the rest.
[G] Chiles
The way of Compounding.
The Cacao, and the other Ingredients must be beaten in a Morter of
Stone, or ground upon a broad stone, which the Indians call
Metate, and is onely made for that use: But the first thing that is
to be done, is to dry the Ingredients, all except the Achiote; with
care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in
stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; and if they be
over-dried, they will be bitter, and lose their vertue. The Cinamon,
and the long red Pepper are to be first beaten, with the Annis-seed;
and then beate the Cacao, which you must beate by a little and
little, till it be all powdred; and sometimes turne it round in the
beating, that it may mixe the better: And every one of these
Ingredients, must be beaten by it selfe; and then put all the
Ingredients into the Vessell, where the Cacao is; which you must
stirre together with a spoone; and then take out that Paste, and put
it into the Morter, under which you must lay a little fire, after the
Confection is made. But you must be very carefull, not to put more
fire, than will warme it, that the unctuous part doe not dry away. And
you must also take care, to put in the Achiote in the beating; that
it may the better take the colour. You must Searse all the
Ingredients, but onely the Cacao; and if you take the shell from the
Cacao, it is the better; and when you shall find it to be well
beaten, & incorporated (which you shall know by the shortness of it)
then with a spoone take up some of the Paste, which will be almost
liquid; and so either make it into Tablets; or put it into Boxes; and
when it is cold it will be hard. To make the Tablets you must put a
spoonfull of the Paste upon a piece of paper, the Indians put it
upon the leaf of a Planten-tree; where, being put into the shade, it
growes hard; and then bowing the paper, the Tablet falls off, by
reason of the fatnesse of the paste. But if you put it into any thing
of earth, or wood, it sticks fast, and will not come off, but with
scraping, or breaking. In the Indies they take it two severall
waies: the one, being the common way, is to take it hot, with
Atolle, which was the Drinke of Ancient Indians (the Indians
call Atolle pappe, made of the flower of Maiz, and so they mingle
it with the Chocolate, and that the Atolle may be more wholesome,
they take off the Husks of the Maiz, which is windy, and melancholy;
and so there remaines onely the best and most substantiall part.) Now,
to returne to the matter, I say, that the other Moderne drinke, which
the Spaniards use so much, is of two sorts. The one is, that the
Chocolate, being dissolved with cold water, & the scumme taken off,
and put into another Vessell, the remainder is put upon the fire, with
Sugar; and when it is warme, then powre it upon the Scumme you tooke
off before, and so drinke it. The other is to warme the water; and
then, when you have put it into a pot, or dish, as much Chocolate as
you thinke fit, put in a little of the warme water, and then grinde it
well with the molinet; and when it is well ground, put the rest of the
warme water to it; and so drinke it with Sugar.
Besides these former wayes, there is one other way; which is, put the
Chocolate into a pipkin, with a little water; and let it boyle well,
till it be dissolved; and then put in sufficient water and Sugar,
according to the quantity of the Chocolate; and then boyle it
againe, untill there comes an oyly scumme upon it; and then drinke it.
But if you put too much fire, it will runne over, and spoyle. But, in
my opinion, this last way is not so wholsome, though it pleaseth the
pallate better; because, when the Oily is divided from the earthy
part, which remaines at the bottome, it causeth Melancholy; and the
oily part loosens the stomacke, and takes away the appetite: There is
another way to drink Chocolate, which is cold; and it takes its name
from the principall Ingredient, and is called Cacao; which they use
at feasts, to refresh themselves; and it is made after this manner.
The Chocolate being dissolved in water with the Molinet, take off
the scumme or crassy part, which riseth in greater quantity, when the
Cacao is older, and more putrified. The scumme is laid aside by it
selfe in a little dish; and then put sugar into that part, from whence
you tooke the scumme; and powre it from on high into the scumme; and
so drink it cold. And this drink is so cold, that it agreeth not with
all mens stomacks; for by experience we find the hurt it doth, by
causing paines in the stomacke, and especially to Women. I could
deliver the reason of it; but I avoid it, because I will not be
tedious, some use it, &c.
There is another way to drinke it cold, which is called _Cacao
Penoli_; and it is done, by adding to the same Chocolate (having
made the Confection, as is before set downe) so much Maiz, dryed,
and well ground, and taken from the Huske, and then well mingled in
the Morter, with the Chocolate, it falls all into flowre, or dust; &
so these things being mingled, as is said before, there riseth the
Scum; and so you take and drink it, as before.
There is another way, which is a shorter and quicker way of making it,
for men of businesse, who cannot stay long about it; and it is more
wholsome; and it is that, which I use. That is, first to set some
water to warm; and while it warms, you throw a Tablet, or some
Chocolate, scraped, and mingled with sugar, into a little Cup; and
when the water is hot, you powre the water to the Chocolate, and
then dissolve it with the Molinet; and then without taking off the
scum, drink it as is before directed.
The fourth Part.
There remaines to be handled in the last Point, of the Quantity, which
is to be drunke: at what Time; and by what persons: because if it be
drunk beyond measure, not onely of Chocolate, but of all other
drinkes, or meates, though of themselves they are good and wholsome,
they may be hurtfull. And if any finde it Opilative, it comes by the
too much use of it; as when one drinkes over much Wine, in stead of
comforting, and warming himselfe, he breeds, and nourisheth cold
diseases; because Nature cannot overcome it, nor turne so great a
quantity into good nourishment. So he that drinkes much Chocolate,
which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity
to all the parts; and that part which remaines in the slender veines
of the Liver, must needs cause Opilations, and Obstructions.
To avoid this inconvenience; you must onely take five or six ounces,
in the morning, if it be in winter; and if the party who takes it, be
Cholerick, in stead of ordinary water, let him take the distilled
water of Endive. The same reason serves in Summer, for those, who take
it physically, having the Liver hot and obstructed. If his Liver be
cold and obstructed, then to use the water of Rubarb. And to
conclude, you may take it till the Moneth of May, especially in
temperate dayes. But I doe not approve, that in the Dogdayes it should
be taken in Spaine, unlesse it be one, who by custome of taking it,
receives no prejudice by it. And if he be of a hot Constitution, and
that he have neede to take it in that season, let it, as is said
before, be mingled with water of Endive; and once in foure dayes,
and chiefely when he findes his stomacke in the morning to be weake
and fainting. And though it be true, that, in the Indies, they use
it all the yeare long, it being a very hot Countrey, and so it may
seeme by the same reason it may be taken in Spaine: First, I say,
that Custome may allow it: Secondly, that as there is an extraordinary
proportion of heate, so there is also of moisture; which helpes, with
the exorbitant heat, to open the pores; and so dissipates, and
impoverisheth our substance, or naturall vigor: by reason whereof, not
only in the morning, but at any time of the day, they use it without
prejudice. And this is most true, that the excessive heate of the
Country, drawes out the naturall heate, and disperseth that of the
stomack and of the inward parts: Insomuch that though the weather be
never so hot, yet the stomack being cold, it usually doth good. I do
not onely say this of the Chocolate, which, as I have proved, hath a
moderate heate; But if you drinke pure wine, be the weather never so
hot, it hurts not, but rather comforts the stomack; and if in hot
weather you drinke water, the hurt it doth is apparant, in that it
cooles the stomack too much; from whence comes a viciated Concoction,
and a thousand other inconveniences.
You must also observe, that it being granted, as I have said, that
there are earthy parts in the Cacao, which fall to the bottome of
the Cup, when you make the drinke, divers are of the opinion, that,
that which remaines, is the best and the more substantiall; and they
hurt themselves not a litle, by drinking of it. For besides, that it
is an earthy substance, thick, and stopping, it is of a malancholy
Nature; and therefore you must avoid the drinking of it, contenting
your selfe with the best, which is the most substantiall.
Last of all, there rests one difficulty to be resolved, formerly
poynted at; namely, what is the cause, why Chocolate makes most of
them that drinke it, fat. For considering that all of the Ingredients,
except the Cacao, do rather extenuate, than make fat, because they
are hot and dry in the third degree. For we have already said, that
the qualities which do predominate in Cacao, are cold, and dry;
which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body. Neverthelesse,
I say, that the many unctuous parts, which I have proved to be in the
Cacao, are those, which pinguifie, and make fat; and the hotter
ingredients of this Composition, serve for a guide, or vehicall, to
passe to the Liver, and the other parts, untill they come to the
fleshy parts; and there finding a like substance, which is hot and
moyst, as is the unctuous part, converting it selfe into the same
substance, it doth augment and pinguifie. Much more might be said from
the ground of Philosophy, and Physique; but because that is fitter for
the Schooles, than for this discourse; I leave it, and onely give this
Caution, that in my Receipt, you may adde Mellon seeds, and seeds of
Pompions of Valencia, dryed, and beaten into powder, where there is
any heat of the Liver or Kidnyes. And if there be any obstructions of
the Liver, or Spleene, with any cold distemper, you may mixe the
powder of Ceterach; to which you may adde Amber, or Muske, to please
the scent.
And it will be no small matter, to have pleased all, with this
Discourse.
FINIS.
How to make use of the Chocolate,
to be taken as a drinke, exceeding
cordiall for the comfort of
the healthfull, and also for
those in weaknesse and Consumptions,
to be dissolved in Milke or Water.
_If you please to take it in milke, to a quart, three ounces of
Chocolate will be sufficient: Scrape your Chocolate very fine, put
it into your milke when it boiles, work it very well with the
Spanish Instrument called Molenillo between your hands: which
Instrument must be of wood, with a round knob made very round, and cut
ragged, that as you turne it in your hands, the milke may froth and
dissolve the Chocolate the better: then set the milke on the fire
againe, untill it be ready to boyle: having the yelke of two eggs well
beaten with some of the hot milke; then put your eggs into the milke,
and Chocolate and Sugar, as much as you like for your taste, and
worke all together with the Molenillo, and thus drinke a good
draught: or if you please you may slice a little Manchet into a dish,
and so eate it for a breakfast: you may if you please make your
Chocolate with Water and Sugar, working it after the same order with
your Molenillo, which for some weake stomacks may chance to be
better liked. And many there be that beat Almonds, and strayne them
into the water it is boyled, and wrought with the Chocolate and
Sugar: others like to put the yelkes of eggs as before in the milke,
and even sweeten it with Sugar to your taste: If you drinke a good
draught of this in a morning, you may travell all the day without any
other thing, this is so Substantiall and Cordiall._
The manner of making Chocolate.
Set a Pot of Conduit Water over the fire untill it boiles, then to
every person that is to drink, put an ounce of Chocolate, with as
much Sugar into another Pot; wherein you must poure a pint of the said
boiling Water, and therein mingle the Chocolate and the Sugar, with
the instrument called El Molinillo, untill it be thoroughly
incorporated: which done, poure in as many halfe pints of the said
Water as there be ounces of Chocolate, and if you please, you may
put in one or two yelks of fresh Eggs, which must be beaten untill
they froth very much; the hotter it is drunke, the better it is, being
cold it may doe harme. You may likewise put in a slice of white bred
or Bisquet, and eate that with the Chocolate. The newer and fresher
made it is, the more benefit you shall finde by it; that which comes
from forreigne parts, and is stale, is not so good as that which is
made here.
FINIS.
Transcriber's Note:
In general, spelling and punctuation are as found. Changes have been
made as follows:
Sidenotes/footnotes:
Sidenotes converted to footnotes.
Markers [A], [B], [D], and [E] were placed where it seemed most
appropriate. Other markers were left where they occurred in the text.
Footnote [D] "Ta-asco." is unclear in the scan and was left as found.
Title Page:
The date 1652 is from the catalogue entry. The last digit is
obscured (165?) in the original.
Colminero changed to Colmenero (matches other occurrences in the text).
Poem:
Original in Italic with Roman emphasis.
Chonolate changed to Chocolate in "Then weaned be from Chocolate."
First Point:
re-received changed to received in "according to the common received
opinion,"
an-answered changed to answered in "two things to be answered:"
primaq; expanded to primaque in "primaque membra juvant"
Removed duplicated word "it" in "though it excuse not"
cumq; expanded to cumque in "cumque lyene caput"
dulcisq; expanded to dulcisque in "dulcisque Amigdala succum"
comm[~o] expanded to common in "appeareth by the common practice"
Second Point:
Cocao changed to Cacao in "Cacao, and of the hot parts"