,illustration ,manual of ,gardening ,a ,,practical ,,guide ,,to ,,the ,,making ,,of ,,home ,,grounds ,,and ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,flowers1 ,,fruits1 ,,and ,,vegetables ,,for ,,home ,,use by ,l4 ,h4 ,bailey ,,second ,,edition #aiaj ,contents ,,explanation ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,point ,,of ,,view ,what a garden is ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,general ,,plan ,,or ,,theory ,,of ,,the ,,place ,the plan of the grounds ,the picture in the landscape ,birds2 and cats ,the planting is part of the design or picture ,the flower-growing should be part of the design ,defects in flower-growing ,lawn flower-beds ,flower-borders ,the old-fashioned garden ,contents of the flower-borders ,the value of plants may lie in foliage and form rather than in bloom ,odd and formal trees ,poplars and the like ,plant-forms ,various specific examples ,an example ,another example ,a third example ,a small back yard ,a city lot ,general remarks ,review ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,execution ,,of ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,landscape ,,features ,the grading ,the terrace ,the bounding lines ,walks and drives ,the question of drainage1 curbing1 and gutters ,the materials ,making the borders ,making the lawn ,preparing the ground ,the kind of grass ,when and how to sow the seed ,securing a firm sod ,the mowing ,fall treatment ,spring treatment ,watering lawns ,sodding the lawn ,a combination of sodding and seeding ,sowing with sod ,other ground covers ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,handling ,,of ,,the ,,land ,the draining of the land ,trenching and subsoiling ,preparation of the surface ,the saving of moisture ,hand tools for weeding and subsequent tillage and other hand work ,the hoe ,scarifiers ,hand-weeders ,trowels and their kind ,rollers ,markers ,enriching the land ,,chapter ,v4 ,,the ,,handling ,,of ,,the ,,plants ,sowing the seeds ,propagating by cuttings ,dormant stem-cuttings ,cuttings of roots ,green cuttings ,cuttings of leaves ,general treatment ,transplanting young seedlings ,transplanting established plants and trees ,tub-plants ,when to transplant ,depth to transplant ,making the rows straight ,cutting-back2 filling ,removing very large trees ,winter protection of plants ,pruning ,tree surgery and protection ,tree guards ,mice and rabbits ,girdled trees ,repairing street trees ,the grafting of plants ,keeping records of the plantation ,the storing of fruits and vegetables ,the forcing of plants ,coldframes ,hotbeds ,management of hotbeds ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,protecting ,,plants ,,from ,,things ,,that ,,prey ,,on ,,them ,screens and covers ,fumigating ,soaking tubers and seeds ,spraying ,insecticide spraying formulas ,fungicide spraying formulas ,treatment for some of the common insects ,treatment for some of the common plant diseases ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,ornamental ,,plants--,,the ,,classes ,,of ,,plants1 ,,and ,,lists ,planting for immediate effect ,the use of 8foliage0 trees and shrubs ,windbreaks and screens ,the making of hedges ,the borders ,the flower-beds ,bedding effects ,plants for subtropical effects ,aquatic and bog plants ,rockeries and alpine plants #a4 ,,plants ,,for ,,carpet-,,beds ,lists for carpet-beds #b4 ,,the ,,annual ,,plants ,list of annuals by color of flowers ,useful annuals for edgings of beds and walks1 and for ribbon-beds ,annuals that continue to bloom after frost ,list of annuals suitable for bedding 7that is1 for 8mass-effects0 of color7 ,list of annuals by height ,distances for planting annuals #c4 ,,hardy ,,herbaceous ,,perennials ,perennial herbs suitable for lawn and 8planting0 effects ,a brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous perennials ,one hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs #d4 ,,bulbs ,,and ,,tubers ,fall-planted bulbs ,list of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the ,north ,winter bulbs ,summer bulbs #e4 ,,the ,,shrubbery ,list of shrubbery plants for the ,north ,shrubs for the ,south #f4 ,,climbing ,,plants ,annual herbaceous climbers ,perennial herbaceous climbers ,woody perennial climbers ,climbing roses #g4 ,,trees ,,for ,,lawns ,,and ,,streets ,list of hardy deciduous trees for the ,north ,non-coniferous trees for the ,south #h4 ,,coniferous ,,evergreen ,,shrubs ,,and ,,trees ,list of shrubby conifers ,arboreous conifers ,conifers for the ,south #i4 ,,window-,,gardens ,the window-box for outside effect ,the inside window-garden1 or 8house plants0 ,bulbs in the window-garden ,watering house plants ,hanging baskets ,aquarium ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,ornamental ,,plants--,,instructions ,,of ,,particular ,,kinds ,abutilons2 agapanthus2 alstremeria2 amaryllis2 anemone2 aralia2 araucaria2 auricula2 azaleas2 begonias2 cactus2 caladium2 calceolaria2 calla2 camellias2 cannas2 carnations2 century plants2 chrysanthemums2 cineraria2 clematis2 coleus2 crocus2 croton2 cyclamen2 dahlia2 ferns2 freesia2 fuchsia2 geranium2 gladiolus2 gloxinia2 grevillea2 hollyhocks2 hyacinths2 iris2 lily2 lily-of-the-valley2 mignonette2 moon-flowers2 narcissus2 oleander2 oxalis2 palms2 pandanus2 pansy2 pelargonium2 peony2 phlox2 primulas2 rhododendrons2 rose2 smilax2 stocks2 sweet pea2 swainsona2 tuberose2 tulips2 violet2 wax plant4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,fruit ,,plants ,dwarf fruit-trees ,age and size of trees ,pruning ,thinning the fruit ,washing and scrubbing the trees ,gathering and keeping fruit ,almond2 apples2 apricot2 blackberry2 cherry2 cranberry2 currant2 dewberry2 fig2 gooseberry2 grape2 mulberry2 nuts2 orange2 peach2 pear2 plum2 quince2 raspberry2 strawberry2 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,vegetable ,,plants ,vegetables for six ,the classes of vegetables ,the culture of the leading vegetables ,asparagus2 artichoke2 artichoke2 ,jerusalem2 bean2 beet2 broccoli2 brussels sprouts2 cabbage2 carrot2 cauliflower2 celeriac2 celery2 chard2 chicory2 chervil2 chives2 collards2 corn salad2 corn2 cress2 cucumber2 dandelion2 egg-plant2 endive2 garlic2 horseradish2 kale2 kohlrabi2 leek2 lettuce2 mushroom2 mustard2 muskmelon2 okra2 onion2 parsley2 parsnip2 pea2 pepper2 potato2 radish2 rhubarb2 salsify2 sea-kale2 sorrel2 spearmint2 spinach2 squash2 sweet-potato2 tomato2 turnips and rutabagas2 watermelon4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,seasonal ,,reminders ,for the ,north ,for the ,south ,,index ,,list ,,of ,,plates ,,plate ,i4 ,the open center4 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,the plan of the place4 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,open-center treatment in a semi-tropical country4 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,subtropical bedding against a building4 ,caladiums1 cannas1 abutilons1 permanent rhododendrons1 and other large stuff1 with tuberous begonias and balsams between4 ,,plate ,v4 ,a subtropical bed4 ,center of cannas1 with border of ,pennisetum longistylum 7a grass7 started in late ,february or early ,march4 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,a tree that gives character to a place4 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,bedding with palms4 ,if a bricked-up pit is made about the porch1 pot palms may be plunged in it in spring and tub conifers in winter2 and fall bulbs in tin cans 7so that the receptacles will not split with frost7 may be plunged among the evergreens4 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,a well-planted entrance4 ,common trees and bushes1 with ,boston ivy4 on the post1 and ,berberis ,thunbergii in front4 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,a rocky bank covered with permanent informal planting4 ,,plate ,x4 ,a shallow lawn pond1 containing water-lilies1 variegated sweet flag1 iris1 and subtropical bedding at the rear2 fountain covered with parrot's feather 7,myriophyllum proserpinacoides74 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,a back yard with summer house1 and gardens beyond4 ,,plate ,,xii4 ,a back yard with heavy flower-garden planting4 ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,the pageant of summer4 ,gardens of ,c4,w4 ,dowdeswell1 ,england1 from a painting by ,miss ,parsons4 ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,virginia creeper screen1 on an old fence1 with wall-flowers and hollyhocks in front4 ,,plate ,,xv4 ,scuppernong grape1 the arbor vine of the ,south4 ,this plate shows the noted scuppernongs on ,roanoke ,island1 of which the origin is unknown1 but which were of great size more than one hundred years ago4 ,,plate ,,xvi4 ,a flower-garden of ,china asters1 with border of one of the dusty millers 7,centaurea74 ,,plate ,,xvii4 ,the peony4 ,one of the most steadfast of garden flowers4 ,,plate ,,xviii4 ,cornflower or bachelor's button4 ,centaurea ,cyanus4 ,,plate ,,xix4 ,pyracantha in fruit4 ,one of the best ornamental-fruited plants for the middle and milder latitudes4 ,,plate ,,xx4 ,a simple but effective window-box1 containing geraniums1 petunias1 verbenas1 heliotrope1 and vines4 ,,plate ,,xxi4 ,the king of fruits4 ,newtown as grown in the ,pacific country4 ,,plate ,,xxii4 ,wall-training of a pear tree4 ,,plate ,,xxiii4 ,cherry currant4 ,,plate ,,xxiv4 ,golden ,bantam sweet corn4 ,,plate ,,xxv4 ,the garden radish1 grown in fall1 of the usual spring sorts4 ,,explanation ,it has been my desire to reconstruct the two books1 8,garden-,making0 and 8,practical ,garden-,book02 but inasmuch as these books have found a constituency in their present form1 it has seemed best to let them stand as they are and to continue their publication as long as the demand maintains itself1 and to prepare a new work on gardening4 ,this new work ,i now offer as 8,a ,manual of ,gardening40 ,it is a combination and revision of the main parts of the other two books1 together with much new material and the results of the experience of ten added years4 ,a book of this kind cannot be drawn wholly from one's own practice1 unless it is designed to have a very restricted and local application4 ,many of the best suggestions in such a book will have come from correspondents1 questioners1 and those who enjoy talking about gardens2 and my situation has been such that these communications have come to me freely4 ,i have always tried1 however1 to test all such suggestions by experience and to make them my own before offering them to my reader4 ,i must express my special obligation to those persons who collaborated in the preparation of the other two books1 and whose contributions have been freely used in this one3 to ,c4,e4 ,hunn1 a gardener of long experience2 ,professor ,ernest ,walker1 reared as a commercial florist2 ,professor ,l4,r4 ,taft and ,professor ,f4,a4 ,waugh1 well known for their studies and writings in horticultural subjects4 ,in making this book1 ,i have had constantly in mind the home-maker himself or herself rather than the professional gardener4 ,it is of the greatest importance that we attach many persons to the land2 and ,i am convinced that an interest in gardening will naturally take the place of many desires that are much more difficult to gratify1 and that lie beyond the reach of the average man or woman4 ,it has been my good fortune to have seen amateur and commercial gardening in all parts of the ,united ,states1 and ,i have tried to express something of this generality in the book2 yet my experience1 as well as that of my original collaborators1 is of the northeastern states1 and the book is therefore necessarily written from this region as a base4 ,one gardening book cannot be made to apply in its practice in all parts of the ,united ,states and ,canada unless its instructions are so general as to be practically useless2 but the principles and points of view may have wider application4 ,while ,i have tried to give only the soundest and most tested advice1 ,i cannot hope to have escaped errors and shortcomings1 and ,i shall be grateful to my reader if he will advise me of mistakes or faults that he may discover4 ,i shall expect to use such information in the making of subsequent editions4 ,of course an author cannot hold himself responsible for failures that his reader may suffer4 ,the statements in a book of this kind are in the nature of advice1 and it may or it may not apply in particular conditions1 and the success or failure is the result mostly of the judgment and carefulness of the operator4 ,i hope that no reader of a gardening book will ever conceive the idea that reading a book and following it literally will make him a gardener4 ,he must always assume his own risks1 and this will be the first step in his personal progress4 ,i should explain that the botanical nomenclature of this book is that of the 8,cyclopedia of ,american ,horticulture10 unless otherwise stated4 ,the exceptions are the 8trade names10 or those used by nurserymen and seedsmen in the sale of their stock4 ,i should further explain the reason for omitting ligatures and using such words as peony1 spirea1 dracena1 cobea4 ,as technical ,latin formularies1 the compounds must of course be retained1 as in ,ponia officinalis1 ,spira ,thunbergi1 ,dracna fragrans1 ,coba scandens2 but as ,anglicized words of common speech it is time to follow the custom of general literature1 in which the combinations and have disappeared4 ,this simplification was begun in the 8,cyclopedia of ,american ,horticulture0 and has been continued in other writings4 ,l4 ,h4 ,,bailey4 ,,ithaca1 ,,new ,,york1 ,january #bj1 #aiaj4 ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,point ,,of ,,view ,i4 ,the open center4 ,i4 ,the open center4 ,wherever there is soil1 plants grow and produce their kind1 and all plants are interesting2 when a person makes a choice as to what plants he shall grow in any given place1 he becomes a gardener or a farmer2 and if the conditions are such that he cannot make a choice1 he may adopt the plants that grow there by nature1 and by making the most of them may still be a gardener or a farmer in some degree4 ,every family1 therefore1 may have a garden4 ,if there is not a foot of land1 there are porches or windows4 ,wherever there is sunlight1 plants may be made to grow2 and one plant in a tin-can may be a more helpful and inspiring garden to some mind than a whole acre of lawn and flowers may be to another4 ,the satisfaction of a garden does not depend on the area1 nor1 happily1 on the cost or rarity of the plants4 ,it depends on the temper of the person4 ,one must first seek to love plants and nature1 and then to cultivate the happy peace of mind that is satisfied with little4 ,in the vast majority of cases a person will be happier if he has no rigid and arbitrary notions1 for gardens are moodish1 particularly with the novice4 ,if plants grow and thrive1 he should be happy2 and if the plants that thrive chance not to be the ones that he planted1 they are plants nevertheless1 and nature is satisfied with them4 ,we are wont to covet the things that we cannot have2 but we are happier when we love the things that grow because they must4 ,a patch of lusty pigweeds1 growing and crowding in luxuriant abandon1 may be a better and more worthy object of affection than a bed of coleuses in which every spark of life and spirit and individuality has been sheared out and suppressed4 ,the man who worries morning and night about the dandelions in the lawn will find great relief in loving the dandelions4 ,each blossom is worth more than a gold coin1 as it shines in the exuberant sunlight of the growing spring1 and attracts the insects to its bosom4 ,little children like the dandelions3 why may not we8 ,love the things nearest at hand2 and love intensely4 ,if ,i were to write a motto over the gate of a garden1 ,i should choose the remark that ,socrates is said to have made as he saw the luxuries in the market1 8,how much there is in the world that ,i do not want60 ,i verily believe that this paragraph ,i have just written is worth more than all the advice with which ,i intend to cram the succeeding pages1 notwithstanding the fact that ,i have most assiduously extracted this advice from various worthy but1 happily1 long-forgotten authors4 ,happiness is a quality of a person1 not of a plant or a garden2 and the anticipation of joy in the writing of a book may be the reason why so many books on garden-making have been written4 ,of course1 all these books have been good and useful4 ,it would be ungrateful1 at the least1 for the present writer to say otherwise2 but books grow old1 and the advice becomes too familiar4 ,the sentences need to be transposed and the order of the chapters varied1 now and then1 or interest lags4 ,or1 to speak plainly1 a new book of advice on handicraft is needed in every decade1 or perhaps oftener in these days of many publishers4 ,there has been a long and worthy procession of these handbooks1--,gardiner ,hepburn1 ,m',mahon1 ,cobbett--original1 pungent1 versatile ,cobbett6--,fessenden1 ,squibb1 ,bridgeman1 ,sayers1 ,buist1 and a dozen more1 each one a little richer because the others had been written4 ,but even the fact that all books pass into oblivion does not deter another hand from making still another venture4 ,i expect1 then1 that every person who reads this book will make a garden1 or will try to make one2 but if only tares grow where roses are desired1 ,i must remind the reader that at the outset ,i advised pigweeds4 ,the book1 therefore1 will suit everybody1--the experienced gardener1 because it will be a repetition of what he already knows2 and the novice1 because it will apply as well to a garden of burdocks as of onions4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,the ornamental burdock ,what a garden is4 ,a garden is the personal part of an estate1 the area that is most intimately associated with the private life of the home4 ,originally1 the garden was the area inside the inclosure or lines of fortification1 in distinction from the unprotected area or fields that lay beyond2 and this latter area was the particular domain of agriculture4 ,this book understands the garden to be that part of the personal or home premises devoted to ornament1 and to the growing of vegetables and fruits4 ,the garden1 therefore1 is an ill-defined demesne2 but the reader must not make the mistake of defining it by dimensions1 for one may have a garden in a flower-pot or on a thousand acres4 ,in other words1 this book declares that every bit of land that is not used for buildings1 walks1 drives1 and fences1 should be planted4 ,what we shall plant--whether sward1 lilacs1 thistles1 cabbages1 pears1 chrysanthemums1 or tomatoes--we shall talk about as we proceed4 ,the only way to keep land perfectly unproductive is to keep it moving4 ,the moment the owner lets it alone1 the planting has begun4 ,in my own garden1 this first planting is of pigweeds4 ,these may be followed1 the next year1 by ragweeds1 then by docks and thistles1 with here and there a start of clover and grass2 and it all ends in ,june-grass and dandelions4 ,nature does not allow the land to remain bare and idle4 ,even the banks where plaster and lath were dumped two or three years ago are now luxuriant with burdocks and sweet clover2 and yet persons who pass those dumps every day say that they can grow nothing in their own yard because the soil is so poor6 ,yet ,i venture that those same persons furnish most of the pigweed seed that ,i use on my garden4 ,the lesson is that there is no soil--where a house would be built--so poor that something worth while cannot be grown on it4 ,if burdocks will grow1 something else will grow2 or if nothing else will grow1 then ,i prefer burdocks to sand and rubbish4 ,the burdock is one of the most striking and decorative of plants1 and a good piece of it against a building or on a rough bank is just as useful as many plants that cost money and are difficult to grow4 ,i had a good clump of burdock under my study window1 and it was a great comfort2 but the man would persist in wanting to cut it down when he mowed the lawn4 ,when ,i remonstrated1 he declared that it was nothing but burdock2 but ,i insisted that1 so far from being burdock1 it was really ,lappa major1 since which time the plant and its offspring have enjoyed his utmost respect4 ,and ,i find that most of my friends reserve their appreciation of a plant until they have learned its name and its family connections4 ,the dump-place that ,i mentioned has a surface area of nearly one hundred and fifty square feet1 and ,i find that it has grown over two hundred good plants of one kind or another this year4 ,this is more than my gardener accomplished on an equal area1 with manure and water and a man to help4 ,the difference was that the plants on the dump wanted to grow1 and the imported plants in the garden did not want to grow4 ,it was the difference between a willing horse and a balky horse4 ,if a person wants to show his skill1 he may choose the balky plant2 but if he wants fun and comfort in gardening1 he would better choose the willing one4 ,i have never been able to find out when the burdocks and mustard were planted on the dump2 and ,i am sure that they were never hoed or watered4 ,nature practices a wonderfully rigid economy4 ,for nearly half the summer she even refused rain to the plants1 but still they thrived2 yet ,i staid home from a vacation one summer that ,i might keep my plants from dying4 ,i have since learned that if the plants in my hardy borders cannot take care of themselves for a time1 they are little comfort to me4 ,the joy of garden-making lies in the mental attitude and in the sentiments4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,the ,,general ,,plan ,,or ,,theory ,,of ,,the ,,place ,having now discussed the most essential elements of gardening1 we may give attention to such minor features as the actual way in which a satisfying garden is to be planned and executed4 ,speaking broadly1 a person will get from a garden what he puts into it2 and it is of the first importance1 therefore1 that a clear conception of the work be formulated at the outset4 ,i do not mean to say that the garden will always turn out what it was desired that it should be2 but the failure to turn out properly is usually some fault in the first plan or some neglect in execution4 ,sometimes the disappointment in an ornamental garden is a result of confusion of ideas as to what a garden is for4 ,one of my friends was greatly disappointed on returning to his garden early in ,september to find that it was not so full and floriferous as when he left it in ,july4 ,he had not learned the simple lesson that even a flower-garden should exhibit the natural progress of the season4 ,if the garden begins to show ragged places and to decline in late ,august or early ,september1 it is what occurs in all surrounding vegetation4 ,the year is maturing4 ,the garden ought to express the feeling of the different months4 ,the failing leaves and expended plants are therefore to be looked on1 to some extent at least1 as the natural order and destiny of a good garden4 ,these attributes are well exhibited in the vegetable-garden4 ,in the spring1 the vegetable-garden is a model of neatness and precision4 ,the rows are straight4 ,there are no missing plants4 ,the earth is mellow and fresh4 ,weeds are absent4 ,one takes his friends to the garden1 and he makes pictures of it4 ,by late ,june or early ,july1 the plants have begun to sprawl and to get out of shape4 ,the bugs have taken some of them4 ,the rows are no longer trim and precise4 ,the earth is hot and dry4 ,the weeds are making headway4 ,by ,august and ,september1 the garden has lost its early regularity and freshness4 ,the camera is put aside4 ,the visitors are not taken to it3 the gardener prefers to go alone to find the melon or the tomatoes1 and he comes away as soon as he has secured his product4 ,now1 as a matter of fact1 the garden has been going through its regular seasonal growth4 ,it is natural that it become ragged4 ,it is not necessary that weeds conquer it2 but ,i suspect that it would be a very poor garden1 and certainly an uninteresting one1 if it retained the dress of childhood at the time when it should develop the personalities of age4 ,there are two types of outdoor gardening in which the progress of the season is not definitely expressed1--in the carpet-bedding kind1 and in the subtropical kind4 ,i hope that my reader will get a clear distinction in these matters1 for it is exceedingly important4 ,the carpet-bedding gardening is the making of figure-beds in house-leeks and achyranthes and coleus and sanitalia1 and other things that can be grown in compact masses and possibly sheared to keep them within place and bounds2 the reader sees these beds in perfection in some of the parks and about florists' establishments2 he will understand at once that they are not meant in any way to express the season1 for the difference between them in ,september and ,june is only that they may be more perfect in ,september4 ,the subtropical gardening 7plates ,,iv and ,v7 is the planting out of house-grown stuff1 in order to produce given effects1 of such plants as palms1 dracenas1 crotons1 caladiums1 papyrus1 together with such luxuriant things as dahlias and cannas and large ornamental grasses and castor beans2 these plants are to produce effects quite foreign to the expression of a northern landscape1 and they are usually at their best and are most luxuriant when overtaken by the fall frosts4 ,now1 the home gardener usually relies on plants that more or less come and go with the seasons4 ,he pieces out and extends the season1 to be sure2 but a garden with pansies1 pinks1 sweet william1 roses1 sweet peas1 petunias1 marigolds1 salpiglossis1 sweet sultan1 poppies1 zinnias1 asters1 cosmos1 and the rest1 is a progress-of-the-season garden1 nevertheless2 and if it is a garden of herbaceous perennials1 it still more completely expresses the time-of-year4 ,my reader will now consider1 perhaps1 whether he would have his garden accent and heighten his natural year from spring to fall1 or whether he desires to thrust into his year a feeling of another order of vegetation4 ,either is allowable2 but the gardener should distinguish at the outset4 ,i wish to suggest to my reader1 also1 that it is possible for the garden to retain some interest even in the winter months4 ,i sometimes question whether it is altogether wise to clear out the old garden stems too completely and too smoothly in the fall1 and thereby obliterate every mark of it for the winter months2 but however this may be1 there are two ways by which the garden year may be extended3 by planting things that bloom very late in fall and others that bloom very early in spring2 by using freely1 in the backgrounds1 of bushes and trees that have interesting winter characters4 ,the plan of the grounds 7see ,plate ,,ii74 ,,ii4 ,the plan of the place4 ,,ii4 ,the plan of the place4 ,the arrangement of the property 7which is in ,new ,york7 is determined by an existing woodland to the left or southeast of the house and a natural opening to the southwest of the house4 ,the house is colonial1 and the entire treatment is one of considerable simplicity4 ,wild or woodland gardens have been developed to the right and left of the entrance1 the latter or entrance lawns being left severely simple and plain in their treatment4 ,to the rear of the house a turf terrace raised three steps above the general grade of the lawn leads to a general lawn terminated by a small garden exedra or teahouse with a fountain in its center1 and to two shrub gardens forming interesting and closed pockets of lawn4 ,the stable and vegetable gardens are located to the south of the house in a natural opening in the woodland4 ,the design is made by a professional landscape architect4 ,one cannot expect satisfaction in the planting and developing of a home area unless he has a clear conception of what is to be done4 ,this necessarily follows1 since the pleasure that one derives from any enterprise depends chiefly on the definiteness of his ideals and his ability to develop them4 ,the homemaker should develop his plan before he attempts to develop his place4 ,he must study the various subdivisions in order that the premises may meet all his needs4 ,he should determine the locations of the leading features of the place and the relative importance to be given to the various parts of it1--as of the landscape parts1 the ornamental areas1 the vegetable-garden1 and the fruit plantation4 ,the details of the planting may be determined in part as the place develops2 it is only the structural features and purposes that need to be determined beforehand in most small properties4 ,the incidental modifications that may be made in the planting from time to time keep the interest alive and allow the planter to gratify his desire to experiment with new plants and new methods4 ,it must be understood that ,i am now speaking of ordinary home grounds which the home-maker desires to improve by himself4 ,if the area is large enough to present distinct landscape features1 it is always best to employ a landscape architect of recognized merit1 in the same spirit that one would employ an architect4 ,the details1 however1 may even then be filled in by the owner1 if he is so inclined1 following out the plan that the landscape architect makes4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,diagram of a back yard4 ,it is desirable to have a definite plan on paper 7drawn to scale7 for the location of the leading features of the place4 ,these features are the residence1 the out-houses1 the walks and drives1 the service areas 7as clothes yards71 the border planting1 flower-garden1 vegetable-garden1 and fruit-garden4 ,it should not be expected that the map plan can be followed in every detail1 but it will serve as a general guide2 and if it is made on a large enough scale1 the different kinds of plants can be located in their proper positions1 and a record of the place be kept4 ,it is nearly always unsatisfactory1 for both owner and designer1 if a plan of the place is made without a personal inspection of the area4 ,lines that look well on a map may not adjust themselves readily to the varying contours of the place itself1 and the location of the features inside the grounds will depend also in a very large measure on the objects that lie outside it4 ,for example1 all interesting and bold views should be brought into the place1 and all unsightly objects in the immediate vicinity should be planted out4 ,a plan of a back yard of a narrow city lot is given in ,fig4 #b1 showing the heavy border planting of trees and shrubs1 with the skirting border of flowers4 ,in the front are two large trees1 that are desired for shade4 ,it will readily be seen from this plan how extensive the area for flowers becomes when they are placed along such a devious border4 ,more color effect can be got from such an arrangement of the flowers than could be secured if the whole area were planted to flower-beds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,plan of a rough area4 ,a contour map plan of a very rough piece of ground is shown in ,fig4 #c4 ,the sides of the place are high1 and it becomes necessary to carry a walk through the middle area2 and on either side of the front1 it skirts the banks4 ,such a plan is usually unsightly on paper1 but may nevertheless fit special cases very well4 ,the plan is inserted here for the purpose of illustrating the fact that a plan that will work on the ground does not necessarily work on a map4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,suggestion for a school-ground on a four-corners4 ,in charting a place1 it is important to locate the points from which the walks are to start1 and at which they are to emerge from the grounds4 ,these two points are then joined by direct and simple curves2 and alongside the walks1 especially in angles or bold curves1 planting may be inserted4 ,a suggestion for school premises on a four-corners1 and which the pupils enter from three directions1 is made in ,fig4 #d4 ,the two playgrounds are separated by a broken group of bushes extending from the building to the rear boundary2 but1 in general1 the spaces are kept open1 and the heavy border-masses clothe the place and make it home-like4 ,the lineal extent of the group margins is astonishingly large1 and along all these margins flowers may be planted1 if desired4 ,if there is only six feet between a schoolhouse and the fence1 there is still room for a border of shrubs4 ,this border should be between the walk and the fence1--on the very boundary1--not between the walk and the building1 for in the latter case the planting divides the premises and weakens the effect4 ,a space two feet wide will allow of an irregular wall of bushes1 if tall buildings do not cut out the light2 and if the area is one hundred feet long1 thirty to fifty kinds of shrubs and flowers can be grown to perfection1 and the school-grounds will be practically no smaller for the plantation4 ,one cannot make a plan of a place until he knows what he wants to do with the property2 and therefore we may devote the remainder of this chapter to developing the idea in the layout of the premises rather than to the details of map-making and planting4 ,because ,i speak of the free treatment of garden spaces in this book it must not be inferred that any reflection is intended on the 8formal0 garden4 ,there are many places in which the formal or 8architect's garden0 is much to be desired2 but each of these cases should be treated wholly by itself and be made a part of the architectural setting of the place4 ,these questions are outside the sphere of this book4 ,all formal gardens are properly individual studies4 ,all very special types of garden design are naturally excluded from a book of this kind1 such types1 for example1 as ,japanese gardening4 ,persons who desire to develop these specialties will secure the services of persons who are skilled in them2 and there are also books and magazine articles to which they may go4 ,the picture in the landscape4 ,the deficiency in most home grounds is not so much that there is too little planting of trees and shrubs as that this planting is meaningless4 ,every yard should be a picture4 ,that is1 the area should be set off from other areas1 and it should have such a character that the observer catches its entire effect and purpose without stopping to analyze its parts4 ,the yard should be one thing1 one area1 with every feature contributing its part to one strong and homogeneous effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig #e4 ,the common or nursery way of planting ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,the proper or pictorial type of planting ,these remarks will become concrete if the reader turns his eye to ,figs4 #e and #f4 ,the former represents a common type of planting of front yards4 ,the bushes and trees are scattered promiscuously over the area4 ,such a yard has no purpose1 no central idea4 ,it shows plainly that the planter had no constructive conception1 no grasp of any design1 and no appreciation of the fundamental elements of the beauty of landscape4 ,its only merit is the fact that trees and shrubs have been planted2 and this1 to most minds1 comprises the essence and sum of the ornamentation of grounds4 ,every tree and bush is an individual alone1 unattended1 disconnected from its environments1 and1 therefore1 meaningless4 ,such a yard is only a nursery4 ,the other plan 7,fig4 #f7 is a picture4 ,the eye catches its meaning at once4 ,the central idea is the residence1 with a free and open greensward in front of it ,the same trees and bushes that were scattered haphazard over ,fig4 #e are massed into a framework to give effectiveness to the picture of home and comfort4 ,this style of planting makes a landscape1 even though the area be no larger than a parlor4 ,the other style is only a collection of curious plants4 ,the one has an instant and abiding pictorial effect1 which is restful and satisfying3 the observer exclaims1 8,what a beautiful home this is60 ,the other piques one's curiosity1 obscures the residence1 divides and distracts the attention3 the observer exclaims1 8,what excellent lilac bushes are these60 ,an inquiry into the causes of the unlike impressions that one receives from a given landscape and from a painting of it explains the subject admirably4 ,one reason why the picture appeals to us more than the landscape is because the picture is condensed1 and the mind becomes acquainted with its entire purpose at once1 while the landscape is so broad that the individual objects at first fix the attention1 and it is only by a process of synthesis that the unity of the landscape finally becomes apparent4 ,this is admirably illustrated in photographs4 ,one of the first surprises that the novice experiences in the use of the camera is the discovery that very tame scenes become interesting and often even spirited in the photograph4 ,but there is something more than mere condensation in this vitalizing and beautifying effect of the photograph or the painting3 individual objects are so much reduced that they no longer appeal to us as distinct subjects1 and however uncouth they may be in the reality1 they make no impression in the picture2 the thin and sere sward may appear rather like a closely shaven lawn or a new-mown meadow4 ,and again1 the picture sets a limit to the scene2 it frames it1 and thereby cuts off all extraneous and confusing or irrelevant landscapes4 ,these remarks are illustrated in the aesthetics of landscape gardening4 ,it is the artist's one desire to make pictures in the landscape4 ,this is done in two ways3 by the form of plantations1 and by the use of vistas4 ,he will throw his plantations into such positions that open and yet more or less confined areas of greensward are presented to the observer at various points4 ,this picture-like opening is nearly or quite devoid of small or individual objects1 which usually destroy the unity of such areas and are meaningless in themselves4 ,a vista is a narrow opening or view between plantations to a distant landscape4 ,it cuts up the broad horizon into portions that are readily cognizable4 ,it frames parts of the country-side4 ,the verdurous sides of the planting are the sides of the frame2 the foreground is the bottom1 and the sky is the top4 ,it is of the utmost importance that good views be left or secured from the best windows of the house 7not forgetting the kitchen window72 in fact1 the placing of the house may often be determined by the views that may be appropriated4 ,if a landscape is a picture1 it must have a canvas4 ,this canvas is the greensward4 ,upon this1 the artist paints with tree and bush and flower as the painter does upon his canvas with brush and pigments4 ,the opportunity for artistic composition and design is nowhere so great as in the landscape garden1 because no other art has such a limitless field for the expression of its emotions4 ,it is not strange1 if this be true1 that there have been few great landscape gardeners1 and that1 falling short of art1 the landscape gardener too often works in the sphere of the artisan4 ,there can be no rules for landscape gardening1 any more than there can be for painting or sculpture4 ,the operator may be taught how to hold the brush or strike the chisel or plant the tree1 but he remains an operator2 the art is intellectual and emotional and will not confine itself in precepts4 ,the making of a good and spacious lawn1 then1 is the very first practical consideration in a landscape garden4 ,the lawn provided1 the gardener conceives what is the dominant and central feature in the place1 and then throws the entire premises into subordination to this feature4 ,in home grounds this central feature is the house4 ,to scatter trees and bushes over the area defeats the fundamental purpose of the place1--the purpose to make every part of the grounds lead up to the home and to accentuate its homelikeness4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,a house ,a house must have a background if it is to become a home4 ,a house that stands on a bare plain or hill is a part of the universe1 not a part of a home4 ,recall the cozy little farm-house that is backed by a wood or an orchard2 then compare some pretentious structure that stands apart from all planting4 ,yet how many are the farm-houses that stand as stark and cold against the sky as if they were competing with the moon6 ,we would not believe it possible for a man to live in a house twenty-five years and not1 by accident1 allow some tree to grow1 were it not that it is so6 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h ,a home ,of course these remarks about the lawn are meant for those countries where greensward is the natural ground cover4 ,in the ,south and in arid countries1 greensward is not the prevailing feature of the landscape1 and in these regions the landscape design may take on a wholly different character1 if the work is to be nature-like4 ,we have not yet developed other conceptions of landscape work to any perfect extent1 and we inject the ,english greensward treatment even into deserts4 ,we may look for the time when a brown landscape garden may be made in a brown country1 and it may be good art not to attempt a broad open center in regions in which undergrowth rather than sod is the natural ground cover4 ,in parts of the ,united ,states we are developing a good ,spanish-,american architecture1 perhaps we may develop a recognized comparable landscape treatment as an artistic expression4 ,birds2 and cats ,the picture in the landscape is not complete without birds1 and the birds should comprise more species than ,english sparrows4 ,if one is to have birds on his premises1 he must 7#a7 attract them and 7#b7 protect them4 ,one attracts birds by providing places in which they may nest4 ,the free border plantings have distinct advantages in attracting chipping sparrows1 catbirds1 and other species4 ,the bluebirds1 house wrens1 and martins may be attracted by boxes in which they can build4 ,one may attract birds by feeding them and supplying water4 ,suet for woodpeckers and others1 grain and crumbs for other kinds1 and taking care not to frighten or molest them1 will soon win the confidence of the birds4 ,a slowly running or dripping fountain1 with a good rim on which they may perch1 will also attract them1 and it is no mean enjoyment to watch the birds at bathing4 ,or1 if one does not care to go to the expense of a bird fountain1 he may supply their wants by means of a shallow dish of water set on the lawn4 ,the birds will need protection from cats4 ,there is no more reason why cats should roam at will and uncontrolled than that dogs or horses or poultry should be allowed unlimited license4 ,a cat away from home is a trespasser and should be so treated4 ,a person has no more right to inflict a cat on a neighborhood than to inflict a goat or rabbits or any other nuisance4 ,all persons who keep cats should feel the same responsibility for them that they feel for other property2 and they should be willing to forfeit their property right when they forfeit their control4 ,the cats not only destroy birds1 but they break the peace4 ,the caterwauling at night will not be permitted in well-governed communities any more than the shooting of fire-arms or vicious talking will be allowed3 all night-roaming cats should be gathered in1 just as stray dogs and tramps are provided for4 ,i do not dislike cats1 but ,i desire to see them kept at home and within control4 ,if persons say that they cannot keep them on their own premises1 then these persons should not be allowed to have them4 ,a bell on the cat will prevent it from capturing old birds1 and this may answer a good purpose late in the season2 but it will not stop the robbing of nests or the taking of young birds1 and here is where the greatest havoc is wrought4 ,it is often asserted that cats must roam in order that rats and mice may be reduced2 but probably few house mice and few rats are got by wandering cats2 and1 again1 many cats are not mousers4 ,there are other ways of controlling rats and mice2 or if cats are employed for this purpose1 see that they are restricted to the places where the house rats and mice are to be found4 ,many persons like squirrels about the place1 but they cannot expect to have both birds and squirrels unless very special precautions are taken4 ,the ,english or house sparrow drives away the native birds1 although he is himself an attractive inhabitant in winter1 particularly where native birds are not resident4 ,the ,english sparrow should be kept in reduced numbers4 ,this can be easily accomplished by poisoning them in winter 7when other birds are not endangered7 with wheat soaked in strychnine water4 ,the contents of one of the eighth-ounce vials of strychnine that may be secured at a drug store is added to sufficient water to cover a quart of wheat4 ,let the wheat stand in the poison water twenty-four to forty-eight hours 7but not long enough for the grains to sprout71 then dry the wheat thoroughly4 ,it cannot be distinguished from ordinary wheat1 and sparrows usually eat it freely1 particularly if they are in the habit of eating scattered grain and crumbs4 ,of course1 the greatest caution must be exercised that in the use of such highly poisonous materials1 accidents do not occur with other animals or with human beings4 ,,iii4 ,open center treatment in a semi-tropical country4 ,,iii4 ,open center treatment in a semi-tropical country4 ,illustration3 ,the nursery or single-specimen type of planting in a front yard ,the planting is part of the design or picture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj ,a native fence-row ,ilustration3 ,fig4 #aa ,birds build their nests here ,if the reader catches the full meaning of these pages1 he has acquired some of the primary conceptions in landscape gardening4 ,the suggestion will grow upon him day by day2 and if he is of an observing turn of mind1 he will find that this simple lesson will revolutionize his habit of thought respecting the planting of grounds and the beauty of landscapes4 ,he will see that a bush or flower-bed that is no part of any general purpose or design--that is1 which does not contribute to the making of a picture--might better never have been planted4 ,for myself1 ,i would rather have a bare and open pasture than such a yard as that shown in ,fig4 #i1 even though it contained the choicest plants of every land4 ,the pasture would at least be plain and restful and unpretentious2 but the yard would be full of effort and fidget4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,a free-and-easy planting of things wild and tame4 ,reduced to a single expression1 all this means that the greatest artistic value in planting lies in the effect of the mass1 and not in the individual plant4 ,a mass has the greater value because it presents a much greater range and variety of forms1 colors1 shades1 and textures1 because it has sufficient extent or dimensions to add structural character to a place1 and because its features are so continuous and so well blended that the mind is not distracted by incidental and irrelevant ideas4 ,two pictures will illustrate all this4 ,figures #aj1 #aa are pictures of natural copses4 ,the former stretches along a field and makes a lawn of a bit of meadow which lies in front of it4 ,the landscape has become so small and so well defined by this bank of verdure that it has a familiar and personal feeling4 ,the great1 bare1 open meadows are too ill-defined and too extended to give any domestic feeling2 but here is a part of the meadow set off into an area that one can compass with his affections4 ,these masses in ,figs4 #aj1 #aa1 and #ab have their own intrinsic merits1 as well as their office in defining a bit of nature4 ,one is attracted by the freedom of arrangement1 the irregularity of sky-line1 the bold bays and promontories1 and the infinite play of light and shade4 ,the observer is interested in each because it has character1 or features1 that no other mass in all the world possesses4 ,he knows that the birds build their nests in the tangle and the rabbits find it a covert4 ,now let the reader turn to ,fig4 #i1 which is a picture of an 8improved0 city yard4 ,here there is no structural outline to the planting1 no defining of the area1 no continuous flow of the form and color4 ,every bush is what every other one is or may be1 and there are hundreds like them in the same town4 ,the birds shun them4 ,only the bugs find any happiness in them4 ,the place has no fundamental design or idea1 no lawn upon which a picture may be constructed4 ,this yard is like a sentence or a conversation in which every word is equally emphasized4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,an open treatment of a school-ground4 ,more trees might be placed in the area1 if desired4 ,in bold contrast with this yard is the open-center treatment in ,fig4 #ac4 ,here there is pictorial effect2 and there is opportunity along the borders to distribute trees and shrubs that may be desired as individual specimens4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,a rill much as nature made it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae4 ,a rill 8improved10 so that it will not look 8ragged0 and unkempt4 ,the motive that shears the trees also razes the copse1 in order that the gardener or 8improver0 may show his art4 ,compare ,figs4 #ad and #ae4 ,many persons seem to fear that they will never be known to the world unless they expend a great amount of muscle or do something emphatic or spectacular2 and their fears are usually well founded4 ,it is not enough that trees and bushes be planted in masses4 ,they must be kept in masses by letting them grow freely in a natural way4 ,the pruning-knife is the most inveterate enemy of shrubbery4 ,pictures #af and #ag illustrate what ,i mean4 ,the former represents a good group of bushes so far as arrangement is concerned2 but it has been ruined by the shears4 ,the attention of the observer is instantly arrested by the individual bushes4 ,instead of one free and expressive object1 there are several stiff and expressionless ones4 ,if the observer stops to consider his own thoughts when he comes upon such a collection1 he will likely find himself counting the bushes2 or1 at least1 he will be making mental comparisons of the various bushes1 and wondering why they are not all sheared to be exactly alike4 ,figure #ag shows how the same 8artist0 has treated two deutzias and a juniper4 ,much the same effect could have been secured1 and with much less trouble1 by laying two flour barrels end to end and standing a third one between them4 ,illustration3 #af4 ,the making of a good group1 but spoiled by the pruning shears4 ,illustration3 #ag4 ,the three guardsmen4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah ,a bit of semi-rustic work built into a native growth ,i must hasten to say that ,i have not the slightest objection to the shearing of trees4 ,the only trouble is in calling the practice art and in putting the trees where people must see them 7unless they are part of a recognized formal-garden design74 ,if the operator simply calls the business shearing1 and puts the things where he and others who like them may see them1 objection could not be raised4 ,some persons like painted stones1 others iron bulldogs in the front yard and the word 8welcome0 worked into the door-mat1 and others like barbered trees4 ,so long as these likes are purely personal1 it would seem to be better taste to put such curiosities in the back yard1 where the owner may admire them without molestation ,there is a persistent desire among workmen to shear and to trim3 it displays their industry4 ,it is a great thing to be able to allow the freedom of nature to remain4 ,the artist often builds his structures into a native planting 7as in ,fig4 #ah7 rather than to trust himself to produce a good result by planting on razed surfaces4 ,in this discussion1 ,i have tried to enforce the importance of the open center in non-formal home grounds in greensward regions4 ,of course this does not mean that there may not be central planting in particular cases where the conditions distinctly call for it nor that there may not be trees on the lawn4 ,if one has the placing of the trees1 he may see that they are not scattered aimlessly2 but if good trees are already growing on the place1 it would be folly to think of removing them merely because they are not in the best ideal positions2 in such case1 it may be very necessary to adapt the treatment of the area to the trees4 ,the home-maker should always consider1 also1 the planting of a few trees in such places as to shade and protect the residence3 the more closely they can be made a part of the general design or handling of the place1 the better the results will be4 ,the flower-growing should be part of the design4 ,i do not mean to discourage the use of brilliant flowers and bright foliage and striking forms of vegetation2 but these things are never primary considerations in a good domain4 ,the structural elements of the place are designed first4 ,the flanking and bordering masses are then planted4 ,finally the flowers and accessories are put in1 as a house is painted after it is built4 ,flowers appear to best advantage when seen against a background of foliage1 and they are then1 also1 an integral part of the picture4 ,the flower-garden1 as such1 should be at the rear or side of a place1 as all other personal appurtenances are2 but flowers and bright leaves may be freely scattered along the borders and near the foliage masses4 ,it is a common saying that many persons have no love or appreciation of flowers1 but it is probably nearer to the truth to say that no person is wholly lacking in this respect4 ,even those persons who declare that they care nothing for flowers are generally deceived by their dislike of flower-beds and the conventional methods of flower-growing4 ,i know many persons who stoutly deny any liking for flowers1 but who1 nevertheless1 are rejoiced with the blossoming of the orchards and the purpling of the clover fields4 ,the fault may not lie so much with the persons themselves as with the methods of growing and displaying the flowers4 ,defects in flower-growing4 ,the greatest defect with our flower-growing is the stinginess of it4 ,we grow our flowers as if they were the choicest rarities1 to be coddled in a hotbed or under a bell-jar1 and then to be exhibited as single specimens in some little pinched and ridiculous hole cut in the turf1 or perched upon an ant-hill that some gardener has laboriously heaped oh a lawn4 ,nature1 on the other hand1 grows many of her flowers in the most luxurious abandon1 and one can pick an armful without offense4 ,she grows her flowers in earnest1 as a man grows a crop of corn4 ,one can revel in the color and the fragrance and be satisfied4 ,the next defect with our flower-growing is the flower-bed4 ,nature has no time to make flower-bed designs3 she is busy growing flowers4 ,and1 then1 if she were given to flower-beds1 the whole effect would be lost1 for she could no longer be luxurious and wanton1 and if a flower were picked her whole scheme might be upset4 ,imagine a geranium-bed or a coleus-bed1 with its wonderful 8design10 set out into a wood or in a free and open landscape6 ,even the birds would laugh at it6 ,what ,i want to say is that we should grow flowers freely when we make a flower-garden4 ,we should have enough of them to make the effort worth the while4 ,i sympathize with the man who likes sunflowers4 ,there are enough of them to be worth looking at4 ,they fill the eye4 ,now show this man ten feet square of pinks or asters1 or daisies1 all growing free and easy and he will tell you that he likes them4 ,all this has a particular application to the farmer1 who is often said to dislike flowers4 ,he grows potatoes and buckwheat and weeds by the acre3 two or three unhappy pinks or geraniums are not enough to make an impression4 ,lawn flower-beds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai ,hole-in-the-ground gardening ,the easiest way to spoil a good lawn is to put a flower-bed in it2 and the most effective way in which to show off flowers to the least advantage is to plant them in a bed in the greensward4 ,flowers need a background4 ,we do not hang our pictures on fence-posts4 ,if flowers are to be grown on a lawn1 let them be of the hardy kind1 which can be naturalized in the sod and which grow freely in the tall unmown grass2 or else perennials of such nature that they make attractive clumps by themselves4 ,lawns should be free and generous1 but the more they are cut up and worried with trivial effects1 the smaller and meaner they look4 ,illustration3 #bj4 ,worth paying admittance price to see6 ,but even if we consider these lawn flower-beds wholly apart from their surroundings1 we must admit that they are at best unsatisfactory4 ,it generally amounts to this1 that we have four months of sparse and downcast vegetation1 one month of limp and frost-bitten plants1 and seven months of bare earth 7,fig #ai7 ,i am not now opposing the carpet-beds which professional gardeners make in parks and other museums4 ,i like museums1 and some of the carpet-beds and set pieces are 8fearfully and wonderfully made0 7see ,fig #bj7 ,i am directing my remarks to those humble home-made flower-beds that are so common in lawns of country and city homes alike4 ,these beds are cut from the good fresh turf1 often in the most fantastic designs1 and are filled with such plants as the women of the place may be able to carry over in cellars or in the window4 ,the plants themselves may look very well in pots1 but when they are turned out of doors1 they have a sorry time for a month adapting themselves to the sun and winds1 and it is generally well on towards midsummer before they begin to cover the earth4 ,during all these weeks they have demanded more time and labor than would have been needed to care for a plantation of much greater size and which would have given flowers every day from the time the birds began to nest in the spring until the last robin had flown in ,november4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba ,an artist's flower border ,flower-borders4 ,illustration3 #bb4 ,petunias against a background of osiers4 ,illustration3 #bc4 ,a sowing of flowers along a marginal planting4 ,we should acquire the habit of speaking of the flower-border4 ,the border planting of which we have spoken sets bounds to the place1 and makes it one's own4 ,the person lives inside his place1 not on it4 ,along these borders1 against groups1 often by the corners of the residence or in front of porches--these are places for flowers4 ,ten flowers against a background are more effective than a hundred in the open yard4 ,i have asked a professional artist1 ,mr ,mathews1 to draw me the kind of a flower-bed that he likes4 ,it is shown in ,fig4 #ba4 ,it is a border1--a strip of land two or three feet wide along a fence4 ,this is the place where pigweeds usually grow4 ,here he has planted marigolds1 gladiolus1 golden rod1 wild asters1 ,china asters1 and--best of all--hollyhocks4 ,any one would like that flower-garden ,it has some of that local and indefinable charm that always attaches to an 8old-fashioned garden0 with its medley of form and color ,nearly every yard has some such strip of land along a rear walk or fence or against a building ,it is the easiest thing to plant it1--ever so much easier than digging the characterless geranium bed into the center of an inoffensive lawn4 ,the suggestions are carried further in #bb to #be4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,an open back yard4 ,flowers may be thrown in freely along the borders1 but they would spoil the lawn if placed in its center4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,a flower garden at the rear or one side of the place4 ,the old-fashioned garden4 ,speaking of the old-fashioned garden recalls one of ,william ,falconer's excellent paragraphs 78,gardening10 ,november #ae1 #ahig1 p4 #ge73 8,we tried it in ,schenley ,park this year4 ,we needed a handy dumping ground1 and hit on the head of a deep ravine between two woods2 into it we dumped hundreds upon hundreds of wagon loads of rock and clay1 filling it near to the top1 then surfaced it with good soil4 ,here we planted some shrubs1 and broadcast among them set out scarlet poppies1 eschscholtzias1 dwarf nasturtiums1 snapdragons1 pansies1 marigolds1 and all manner of hardy herbaceous plants1 having enough of each sort to make a mass of its kind and color1 and the effect was fine4 ,in the middle was a plantation of hundreds of clumps of ,japan and ,german irises interplanted1 thence succeeded by thousands of gladioli1 and banded with montbretias1 from which we had flowers till frost4 ,the steep face of this hill was graded a little and a series of winding stone steps set into it1 making the descent into the hollow quite easy2 the stones were the rough uneven slabs secured in blasting the rocks when grading in other parts of the park1 and both along outer edges of the steps and the sides of the upper walk a wide belt of moss pink was planted2 and the banks all about were planted with shrubs1 vines1 wild roses1 columbines1 and other plants4 ,more cameras and kodaks were leveled by visitors at this piece of gardening than at any other spot in the park1 and still we had acres of painted summer beds40 ,contents of the flower-borders4 ,there is no prescribed rule as to what one should put into these informal flower-borders4 ,put in them the plants you like4 ,perhaps the greater part of them should be perennials that come up of themselves every spring1 and that are hardy and reliable4 ,wild flowers are particularly effective4 ,every one knows that many of the native herbs of woods and glades are more attractive than some of the most prized garden flowers4 ,the greater part of these native flowers grow readily in cultivation1 sometimes even in places which1 in soil and exposure1 are much unlike their native haunts4 ,many of them make thickened roots1 and they may be safely transplanted at any time after the flowers have passed4 ,to most persons the wild flowers are less known than many exotics that have smaller merit1 and the extension of cultivation is constantly tending to annihilate them4 ,here1 then1 in the informal flower-border1 is an opportunity to rescue them4 ,then one may sow in freely of easy-growing annuals1 as marigolds1 ,china asters1 petunias and phloxes1 and sweet peas4 ,illustration3 #bf4 ,making the most of a rock4 ,one of the advantages of these borders lying at the boundary is that they are always ready to receive more plants1 unless they are full4 ,that is1 their symmetry is not marred if some plants are pulled out and others are put in4 ,and if the weeds now and then get a start1 very little harm is done4 ,such a border half full of weeds is handsomer than the average hole-in-the-lawn geranium bed4 ,an ample border may receive wild plants every month in the year when the frost is out of the ground4 ,plants are dug in the woods or fields1 whenever one is on an excursion1 even if in ,july4 ,the tops are cut off1 the roots kept moist until they are placed in the border2 most of these much-abused plants will grow4 ,to be sure1 one will secure some weeds2 but then1 the weeds are a part of the collection6 ,of course1 some plants will resent this treatment1 but the border may be a happy family1 and be all the better and more personal because it is the result of moments of relaxation4 ,such a border has something new and interesting every month of the growing season2 and even in the winter the tall clumps of grasses and aster-stems hold their banners above the snow and are a source of delight to every frolicsome bevy of snowbirds4 ,i have spoken of a weedland to suggest how simple and easy a thing it is to make an attractive mass-plantation4 ,one may make the most of a rock 7,fig4 #bf7 or bank1 or other undesirable feature of the place4 ,dig up the ground and make it rich1 and then set plants in it4 ,you will not get it to suit you the first year1 and perhaps not the second or the third2 you can always pull out plants and put more in4 ,i should not want a lawn-garden so perfect that ,i could not change it in some character each year2 ,i should lose interest in it4 ,it must not be understood that ,i am speaking only for mixed borders4 ,on the contrary1 it is much better in most cases that each border or bed be dominated by the expression of one kind of flower or bush4 ,in one place a person may desire a wild aster effect1 or a petunia effect1 or a larkspur effect1 or a rhododendron effect2 or it may be desirable to run heavily to strong foliage effects in one direction and to light flower effects in another4 ,the mixed border is rather more a flower-garden idea than a landscape idea2 when it shall be desirable to emphasize the one and when the other1 cannot be set down in a book4 ,the value of plants may lie in foliage and form rather than in bloom4 ,illustration3 #bg4 ,the plant-form in a perennial salvia4 ,what kinds of shrubs and flowers to plant is a wholly secondary and largely a personal consideration4 ,the main plantings are made up of hardy and vigorous species2 then the things that you like are added4 ,there is endless choice in the species1 but the arrangement or disposition of the plants is far more important than the kinds2 and the foliage and form of the plant are usually of more importance than its bloom4 ,the appreciation of foliage effects in the landscape is a higher type of feeling than the desire for mere color4 ,flowers are transitory1 but foliage and plant forms are abiding4 ,the common roses have very little value for landscape planting because the foliage and habit of the rose-bush are not attractive1 the leaves are inveterately attacked by bugs1 and the blossoms are fleeting4 ,some of the wild roses and the ,japanese ,rosa rugosa1 however1 have distinct merit for mass effects4 ,even the common flowers1 as marigold1 zinnias1 and gaillardias1 are interesting as plant forms long before they come into bloom4 ,to many persons the most satisfying epoch in the garden is that preceding the bloom1 for the habits and stature of the plants are then unobscured4 ,the early stages of lilies1 daffodils1 and all perennials are most interesting2 and one never appreciates a garden until he realizes that this is so4 ,illustration3 #bh4 ,funkia1 or day-lily4 ,where lies the chief interest1--in the plant-form or in the bloom8 ,illustration3 #bi4 ,a large-leaved nicotiana4 ,now let the reader1 with these suggestions in mind1 observe for one week the plant-forms in the humble herbs that he meets1 whether these herbs are strong garden plants or the striking sculpturing of mulleins1 burdocks1 and jimson-weed4 ,figures #bg to #ca will be suggestive4 ,wild bushes are nearly always attractive in form and habit when planted in borders and groups4 ,they improve in appearance under cultivation because they are given a better chance to grow4 ,in wild nature there is such fierce struggle for existence that plants usually grow to few or single stems1 and they are sparse and scraggly in form2 but once given all the room they want and a good soil1 they become luxurious1 full1 and comely4 ,in most home grounds in the country the body of the planting may be very effectively composed of bushes taken from the adjacent woods and fields4 ,the masses may then be enlivened by the addition here and there of cultivated bushes1 and the planting of flowers and herbs about the borders4 ,it is not essential that one know the names of these wild bushes1 although a knowledge of their botanical kinships will add greatly to the pleasure of growing them4 ,neither will they look common when transferred to the lawn4 ,there are not many persons who know even the commonest wild bushes intimately1 and the things change so much in looks when removed to rich ground that few home-makers recognize them4 ,illustration3 #cj4 ,the awkward century plant that has been laboriously carried over winter year by year in the cellar3 compare with other plants here shown as to its value as a lawn subject4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,making a picture with rhubarb4 ,odd and formal trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig #cb4 ,a weeping tree at one side of the grounds and supported by a background4 ,it is but a corollary of this discussion to say that plants which are simply odd or grotesque or unusual should be used with the greatest caution1 for they introduce extraneous and jarring effects4 ,they are little in sympathy with a landscape garden4 ,an artist would not care to paint an evergreen that is sheared into some grotesque shape4 ,it is only curious1 and shows what a man with plenty of time and long pruning shears can accomplish4 ,a weeping tree 7particularly of a small-growing species7 is usually seen to best advantage when it stands against a group or mass of foliage 7,fig4 #cb71 as a promontory1 adding zest and spirit to the border2 it then has relation with the place4 ,this leads me to speak of the planting of the ,lombardy poplar1 which may be taken as a type of the formal tree1 and as an illustration of what ,i mean to express4 ,its chief merits to the average planter are the quickness of its growth and the readiness with which it multiplies by sprouts4 ,but in the ,north it is likely to be a short-lived tree1 it suffers from storms1 and it has few really useful qualities4 ,it may be used to some advantage in windbreaks for peach orchards and other short-lived plantations2 but after a few years a screen of ,lombardies begins to fail1 and the habit of suckering from the root adds to its undesirable features4 ,for shade it has little merit1 and for timber none4 ,persons like it because it is striking1 and this1 in an artistic sense1 is its gravest fault4 ,it is unlike anything else in our landscape1 and does not fit into our scenery well4 ,a row of ,lombardies along a roadside is like a row of exclamation points6 ,,iv4 ,subtropical bedding against a building4 ,caladiums1 cannas1 abutilons1 permanent rhododendrons1 and other large stuff1 with tuberous begonias and balsams between4 ,,iv4 ,subtropical bedding against a building4 ,caladiums1 cannas1 abutilons1 permanent rhododendrons1 and other large stuff1 with tuberous begonias and balsams between4 ,but the ,lombardy can often be used to good effect as one factor in a group of trees1 where its spire-like shape1 towering above the surrounding foliage1 may lend a spirited charm to the landscape4 ,it combines well in such groups if it stands in visual nearness to chimneys or other tall formal objects4 ,then it gives a sort of architectural finish and spirit to a group2 but the effect is generally lessened1 if not altogether spoiled1 in small places1 if more than one ,lombardy is in view4 ,one or two specimens may often be used to give vigor to heavy plantations about low buildings1 and the effect is generally best if they are seen beyond or at the rear of the building4 ,note the use that the artist has made of them in the backgrounds in ,figs4 #ab1 #ac1 and #dc4 ,poplars and the like4 ,another defect in common ornamental planting1 which is well illustrated in the use of poplars1 is the desire for plants merely because they grow rapidly4 ,a very rapid-growing tree nearly always produces cheap effects4 ,this is well illustrated in the common planting of willows and poplars about summer places or lake shores4 ,their effect is almost wholly one of thinness and temporariness4 ,there is little that suggests strength or durability in willows and poplars1 and for this reason they should usually be employed as minor or secondary features in ornamental or home grounds4 ,when quick results are desired1 nothing is better to plant than these trees2 but better trees1 as maples1 oaks1 or elms1 should be planted with them1 and the poplars and willows should be removed as rapidly as the other species begin to afford protection4 ,when the plantation finally assumes its permanent characters1 a few of the remaining poplars and willows1 judiciously left1 may afford very excellent effects2 but no one who has an artist's feeling would be content to construct the framework of his place of these rapid-growing and soft-wooded trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,a spring expression worth securing4 ,catkins of the small poplar4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,plant-form in cherries4--,reine ,hortense4 ,i have said that the legitimate use of poplars in ornamental grounds is in the production of minor or secondary effects4 ,as a rule1 they are less adapted to isolated planting as specimen trees than to using in composition1--that is1 as parts of general groups of trees1 where their characters serve to break the monotony of heavier forms and heavier foliage4 ,the poplars are gay trees1 as a rule1 especially those1 like the aspens1 that have a trembling foliage4 ,their leaves are bright and the tree-tops are thin4 ,the common aspen or 8popple10 ,populus tremuloides1 of our woods1 is a meritorious little tree for certain effects4 ,its dangling catkins 7,fig4 #cc71 light1 dancing foliage1 and silver-gray limbs1 are always cheering1 and its autumn color is one of the purest golden-yellows of our landscape4 ,it is good to see a tree of it standing out in front of a group of maples or evergreens4 ,plant-forms4 ,before one attains to great sensitiveness in the appreciation of gardens1 he learns to distinguish plants by their forms4 ,this is particularly true for trees and shrubs4 ,each species has its own 8expression10 which is determined by the size that is natural to it1 mode of branching1 form of top1 twig characters1 bark characters1 foliage characters1 and to some extent its flower and fruit characters4 ,it is a useful practice for one to train his eye by learning the difference in expression of the trees of different varieties of cherries or pears or apples or other fruits1 if he has access to a plantation of them4 ,the differences in cherries and pears are very marked 7,figs4 #cd-cf74 ,he may also contrast and compare carefully the kinds of any tree or shrub of which there are two or three species in the neighborhood1 learning to distinguish them without close examination2 as the sugar maple1 red maple1 soft maple1 and ,norway maple 7if it is planted72 the white or ,american elm1 the cork elm1 the slippery elm1 the planted ,european elms2 the aspen1 large-toothed poplar1 cottonwood1 balm of gilead1 ,carolina poplar1 ,lombardy poplar2 the main species of oaks2 the hickories2 and the like4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,morello cherry4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,may ,duke cherry4 ,it will not be long before the observer learns that many of the tree and shrub characters are most marked in winter2 and he will begin unconsciously to add the winter to his year4 ,various specific examples4 ,the foregoing remarks will mean more if the reader is shown some concrete examples4 ,i have chosen a few cases1 not because they are the best1 or even because they are always good enough for models1 but because they lie in my way and illustrate what ,i desire to teach4 ,a front yard example4 ,we will first look at a very ordinary front yard4 ,it contained no plants1 except a pear tree standing near the corner of the house4 ,four years later sees the yard as shown in ,fig4 #cg4 ,an exochorda is the large bush in the very foreground1 and the porch foundation is screened and a border is thereby given to the lawn4 ,the length of this planting from end to end is about fourteen feet1 with a projection towards the front on the left of ten feet4 ,in the bay at the base of this projection the planting is only two feet wide or deep1 and from here it gradually swings out to the steps1 eight feet wide4 ,the prominent large-leaved plant near the steps is a bramble1 ,rubus odoratus1 very common in the neighborhood1 and it is a choice plant for decorative planting1 when it is kept under control4 ,the plants in this border in front of the porch are all from the wild1 and comprise a prickly ash1 several plants of two wild osiers or dogwoods1 a spice bush1 rose1 wild sunflowers and asters and golden-rods4 ,the promontory at the left is a more ambitious but less effective mass4 ,it contains an exochorda1 a reed1 variegated elder1 sacaline1 variegated dogwood1 tansy1 and a young tree of wild crab4 ,at the rear of the plantation1 next the house1 one sees the pear tree4 ,the best single part of the planting is the reed 7,arundo ,donax7 overtopping the exochorda4 ,the photograph was taken early in summer1 before the reed had become conspicuous4 ,illustration3 #cg4 ,the planting in a simple front yard4 ,a ground plan of this planting is shown in ,fig4 #ch4 ,at ,a is the walk and ,b the steps4 ,an opening at ,d serves as a passage4 ,the main planting1 in front of the porch1 fourteen feet long1 received twelve plants1 some of which have now spread into large clumps4 ,at #a is a large bush of osier1 ,cornus ,baileyi1 one of the best red-stemmed bushes4 ,at #b is a mass of ,rubus odoratus2 at #e asters and golden-rods2 at #c a clump of wild sunflowers4 ,the projecting planting on the left comprises about ten plants1 of which #d is exochorda1 #f is arundo or reed1 at the back of which is a large clump of sacaline1 and #g is a variegated-leaved elder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,plan of the planting shown in ,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,diagram of a back-yard planting4 #ej x #ij feet4 ,another example4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,the beginning of a landscape garden4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da4 ,the result in five years4 ,a back yard is shown in ,fig4 #ci4 ,the owner wanted a tennis court1 and the yard is so small as not to allow of wide planting at the borders4 ,however1 something could be done4 ,on the left is a weedland border1 which formed the basis of the discussion of wild plants on page #ce4 ,in the first place1 a good lawn was made4 ,in the second place1 no walks or drives were laid in the area4 ,the drive for grocers' wagons and coal is seen in the rear1 ninety feet from the house4 ,from ,i to ,j is the weedland1 separating the area from the neighbor's premises4 ,near ,i is a clump of roses4 ,at ,k is a large bunch of golden-rods4 ,h marks a clump of yucca4 ,g is a cabin1 covered with vines on the front4 ,from ,g to ,f is an irregular border1 about six feet wide1 containing barberries1 forsythias1 wild elder1 and other bushes4 ,d ,e is a screen of ,russian mulberry1 setting off the clothes yard from the front lawn4 ,near the back porch1 at the end of the screen1 is an arbor covered with wild grapes1 making a play-house for the children4 ,a clump of lilacs stands at ,a4 ,at ,b is a vine-covered screen1 serving as a hammock support4 ,the lawn made and the planting done1 it was next necessary to lay the walks4 ,these are wholly informal affairs1 made by sinking a plank ten inches wide into the ground to a level with the sod4 ,the border plantings of this yard are too straight and regular for the most artistic results1 but such was necessary in order not to encroach upon the central space4 ,yet the reader will no doubt agree that this yard is much better than it could be made by any system of scattered and spotted planting4 ,let him imagine how a glowing carpet-bed would look set down in the center of this lawn6 ,a third example4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #db4 ,a meaningless back-yard planting1 and an unnecessary drive4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc4 ,suggestions for improving ,fig4 #db4 ,the making of a landscape picture is well illustrated in ,figs4 #dj1 #da4 ,the former shows a small clay field 7seventy-five feet wide1 and three hundred feet deep71 with a barn at the rear4 ,in front of the barn is a screen of willows4 ,the observer is looking from the dwelling-house4 ,the area has been plowed and seeded for a lawn4 ,the operator has then marked out a devious line upon either border with a hoe handle1 and all the space between these borders has been gone over with a garden roller to mark the area of the desired greensward4 ,the borders are now planted with a variety of small trees1 bushes1 and herbs4 ,five years later the view shown in ,fig4 #da was taken4 ,a small back yard4 ,a back yard is shown in ,fig4 #db4 ,it is approximately sixty feet square4 ,at present it contains a drive1 which is unnecessary1 expensive to keep in repair1 and destructive of any attempt to make a picture of the area4 ,the place could be improved by planting it somewhat after the manner of ,fig4 #dc4 ,v4 ,a subtropical bed4 ,center of cannas1 with border of ,pennisetum longistylum 7a grass7 started in late ,february or early ,march4 ,v4 ,a subtropical bed4 ,center of cannas1 with border of ,pennisetum longistylum 7a grass7 started in late ,february or early ,march4 ,a city lot4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dd4 ,present outline of a city back yard1 desired to be planted4 ,a plan of a city lot is given in ,fig4 #dd4 ,the area is fifty by one hundred1 and the house occupies the greater part of the width4 ,it is level1 but the surrounding land is higher1 resulting in a sharp terrace1 three or four feet high1 on the rear1 ,e ,d4 ,this terrace vanishes at ,c on the right1 but extends nearly the whole length of the other side1 gradually diminishing as it approaches ,a4 ,there is a terrace two feet high extending from ,a to ,b1 along the front4 ,beyond the line ,e ,d is the rear of an establishment which it is desired to hide4 ,since the terraces set definite borders to this little place1 it is desirable to plant the boundaries rather heavily4 ,if the adjoining lawns were on the same level1 or if the neighbors would allow one area to be merged into the other by pleasant slopes1 the three yards might be made into one picture2 but the place must remain isolated4 ,there are three problems of structural planting in the place3 to provide a cover or screen at the rear2 to provide lower border masses on the side terraces2 to plant next the foundations of the house4 ,aside from these problems1 the grower is entitled to have a certain number of specimen plants1 if he has particular liking for given types1 but these specimens must be planted in some relation to the structural masses1 and not in the middle of the lawn4 ,the owner desired a mixed planting1 for variety4 ,the following shrubs were actually selected and planted4 ,the place is in central ,new ,york3-- ,shrubs for the tall background #b ,barberry1 ,berberis vulgaris and var4 purpurea4 #a ,cornus ,mas4 #b ,tall deutzias4 #c ,lilacs4 #b ,mock oranges1 ,philadelphus grandiflorus and ,p4 coronarius4 #b ,variegated elders4 #b ,eleagnus1 ,elagnus hortensis and ,e4 longipes4 #a ,exochorda4 #b ,hibiscuses4 ,privet4 #c ,viburnums4 #a ,snowball4 #a ,tartarian honeysuckle4 #a ,silver ,bell1 ,halesia tetraptera4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de4 ,the planting of the terrace in ,fig4 #dd4 ,these were planted on the sloping bank of the terrace1 from ,e to ,d4 ,the terrace has an incline1 or width1 of about three feet4 ,figure #de shows this terrace after the planting was completed1 looking from the point ,c4 ,shrubs of medium size1 suitable for side plantings and groups in the foregoing example #c ,barberries1 ,berberis ,thunbergii4 #c ,osier dogwoods1 variegated4 #b ,japanese quinces1 ,cydonia ,japonica and ,c4 ,maulei4 #d ,tall deutzias4 #a ,variegated elder4 #g ,weigelas1 assorted colors4 #a ,rhodotypos4 #i ,spireas of medium growth1 assorted4 #a ,rubus odoratus4 #a ,lonicera fragrantissima4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #df4 ,said to have been planted4 ,most of these shrubs were planted in a border two feet wide1 extending from ,b to ,c ,d1 the planting beginning about ten feet back from the street4 ,some of them were placed on the terrace at the left1 extending from ,e one-fourth of the distance to ,a4 ,the plants were set about two feet apart4 ,a strong clump was placed at ,n to screen the back yard4 ,in this back yard a few small fruit trees and a strawberry bed were planted4 ,low informal shrubs for front of porch and banking against house #c ,deutzia gracilis4 #f ,kerrias1 green and variegated4 #c ,daphne ,mezereum4 #c ,lonicera ,halliana4 #c ,rubus phnicolasius4 #c ,symphoricarpus vulgaris4 #d ,mahonias4 #a ,ribes aureum4 #a ,ribes sanguineum4 #a ,rubus cratgifolius4 #a ,rubus fruticosus var4 laciniatus4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg4 ,an area well filled4 ,compare ,fig4 #df4 ,these bushes were planted against the front of the house 7a porch on a high foundation extends to the right from ,o71 from the walk around to ,p1 and a few of them were placed at the rear of the house4 ,specimen shrubs for mere ornament1 for this place ,azalea4 ,rhododendron4 ,rose4 #b ,hydrangeas4 #a ,snowball4 #a each ,forsythia suspensa and ,f4 viridissima4 #b ,flowering almonds4 ,these were planted in conspicuous places here and there against the other masses4 ,here are one hundred excellent and interesting bushes planted in a yard only fifty feet wide and one hundred feet deep1 and yet the place has as much room in it as it had before4 ,there is abundant opportunity along the borders for dropping in cannas1 dahlias1 hollyhocks1 asters1 geraniums1 coleuses1 and other brilliant plants4 ,the bushes will soon begin to crowd1 to be sure1 but a mass is wanted1 and the narrowness of the plantations will allow each bush to develop itself laterally to perfection4 ,if the borders become too thick1 however1 it is an easy matter to remove some of the bushes2 but they probably will not4 ,picture the color and variety and life in that little yard4 ,and if a pigweed now and then gets a start in the border1 it would do no harm to let it alone3 it belongs there6 ,then picture the same area filled with disconnected1 spotty1 dyspeptic1 and unspirited flower-beds and rose bushes6 ,various examples4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dh4 ,the screening of the tennis-screen4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di4 ,at the bottom of the clothes-post4 ,strong and bare foundations should be relieved by heavy planting4 ,fill the corners with snow-drifts of foliage4 ,plant with a free hand1 as if you meant it 7compare ,figs4 #df and #dg74 ,the corner by the steps is a perennial source of bad temper4 ,the lawn-mower will not touch it1 and the grass has to be cut with a butcher-knife4 ,if nothing else comes to hand1 let a burdock grow in it 7,fig4 #a74 ,the tennis-screen may be relieved by a background 7,fig4 #dh71 and a clump of ribbon-grass or something else is out of the way against a post 7,fig4 #di74 ,excellent mass effects may be secured by cutting well-established plants of sumac1 ailanthus1 basswood1 and other strong-growing things1 to the ground each year1 for the purpose of securing the stout shoots4 ,figure #ej will give the hint4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ej4 ,young shoots of ailanthus 7and sunflowers for variety74 ,but if one has no area which he can make into a lawn and upon which he can plant such verdurous masses1 what then may he do8 ,even then there may be opportunity for a little neat and artistic planting4 ,even if one lives in a rented house1 he may bring in a bush or an herb from the woods1 and paint a picture with it4 ,plant it in the corner by the steps1 in front of the porch1 at the corner of the house1--almost anywhere except in the center of the lawn4 ,make the ground rich1 secure a strong root1 and plant it with care2 then wait4 ,the little clump will not only have a beauty and interest of its own1 but it may add immensely to the furniture of the yard4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea4 ,a backyard cabin4 ,about these clumps one may plant bulbs of glowing tulips or dainty snowdrops and lilies-of-the-valley2 and these may be followed with pansies and phlox and other simple folk4 ,very soon one finds himself deeply interested in these random and detached pictures1 and almost before he is aware he finds that he has rounded off the corners of the house1 made snug little arbors of wild grapes and clematis1 covered the rear fence and the outhouse with actinidia and bitter-sweet1 and has thrown in dashes of color with hollyhocks1 cannas1 and lilies1 and has tied the foundations of the buildings to the greensward by low strands of vines or deft bits of planting4 ,he soon comes to feel that flowers are most expressive of the best emotions when they are daintily dropped in here and there against a background of foliage1 or else made a side-piece in the place4 ,there is no limit to the adaptations2 ,figs4 #ea to #eh suggest some of the backyard possibilities4 ,presently he rebels at the bold1 harsh1 and impudent designs of some of the gardeners1 and grows into a resourceful love of plant forms and verdure4 ,he may still like the weeping and cut-leaved and party-colored trees of the horticulturist1 but he sees that their best effects are to be had when they are planted sparingly1 as borders or promontories of the structural masses4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eb4 ,a garden path with hedgerows1 trellis1 and bench1 in formal treatment4 ,the best planting1 as the best painting and the best music1 is possible only with the best and tenderest feeling and the closest living with nature4 ,one's place grows to be a reflection of himself1 changing as he changes1 and expressing his life and sympathies to the last4 ,review ,we have now discussed some of the principles and applications of landscape architecture or landscape gardening1 particularly in reference to the planting4 ,the object of landscape gardening is to make a picture4 ,all the grading1 seeding1 planting1 are incidental and supplemental to this one central idea4 ,the greensward is the canvas1 the house or some other prominent point is the central figure1 the planting completes the composition and adds the color4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec4 ,an enclosure for lawn games4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ed4 ,sunlight and shadow4 ,the second conception is the principle that the picture should have a landscape effect4 ,that is1 it should be nature-like4 ,carpet-beds are masses of color1 not pictures4 ,they are the little garnishings and reliefs that are to be used very cautiously1 as little eccentricities and conventionalisms in a building should never be more than very minor features4 ,every other concept in landscape gardening is subordinate to these two4 ,some of the most important of these secondary yet underlying considerations are as follows3-- ,the place is to be conceived of as a unit4 ,if a building is not pleasing1 ask an architect to improve it4 ,the real architect will study the building as a whole1 grasp its design and meaning1 and suggest improvements that will add to the forcefulness of the entire structure4 ,a dabbler would add a chimney here1 a window there1 and apply various daubs of paint to the building4 ,each of these features might be good in itself4 ,the paints might be the best of ochre1 ultramarine1 or paris green1 but they might have no relation to the building as a whole and would be only ludicrous4 ,these two examples illustrate the difference between landscape gardening and the scattering over the place of mere ornamental features4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee4 ,an upland garden1 with grass-grown steps1 sundial1 and edge of foxgloves4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ef4 ,a garden corner4 ,there should be one central and emphatic point in the picture4 ,a picture of a battle draws its interest from the action of a central figure or group4 ,the moment the incidental and lateral figures are made as prominent as the central figures1 the picture loses emphasis1 life1 and meaning4 ,the borders of a place are of less importance than its center4 ,therefore3 ,keep the center of the place open2 ,frame and mass the sides2 ,avoid scattered effects4 ,in a landscape picture flowers are incidents4 ,they add emphasis1 supply color1 give variety and finish2 they are the ornaments1 but the lawn and the mass-plantings make the framework4 ,one flower in the border1 and made an incident of the picture1 is more effective than twenty flowers in the center of the lawn4 ,more depends on the positions that plants occupy with reference to each other and to the structural design of the place1 than on the intrinsic merits of the plants themselves4 ,landscape gardening1 then1 is the embellishment of grounds in such a way that they will have a nature-like or landscape effect4 ,the flowers and accessories may heighten and accelerate the effect1 but they should not contradict it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg4 ,an old-fashioned doorway4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eh4 ,an informally treated stream4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,execution ,,of ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,landscape ,,features ,the general lay-out of a small home property having now been considered1 we may discuss the practical operations of executing the plan4 ,it is not intended in this chapter to discuss the general question of how to handle the soil3 that discussion comes in ,chapter ,,iv2 nor in detail how to handle plants3 that occurs in ,chapters ,v to ,x2 but the subjects of grading1 laying out of walks and drives1 executing the border plantings1 and the making of lawns1 may be briefly considered4 ,of course the instructions given in a book1 however complete1 are very inadequate and unsatisfactory as compared with the advice of a good experienced person4 ,it is not always possible to find such a person1 however2 and it is no little satisfaction to the homemaker if he can feel that he can handle the work himself1 even at the expense of some mistakes4 ,the grading4 ,the first consideration is to grade the land4 ,grading is very expensive1 especially if performed at a season when the soil is heavy with water4 ,every effort should be made1 therefore1 to reduce the grading to a minimum and still secure a pleasing contour4 ,a good time to grade1 if one has the time1 is in the fall before the heavy rains come1 and then allow the surface to settle until spring1 when the finish may be made4 ,all filling will settle in time unless thoroughly tamped as it proceeds4 ,the smaller the area the more pains must be taken with the grading2 but in any plat that is one hundred feet or more square1 very considerable undulations may be left in the surface with excellent effect4 ,in lawns of this size1 or even half this size1 it is rarely advisable to have them perfectly flat and level4 ,they should slope gradually away from the house2 and when the lawn is seventy-five feet or more in width1 it may be slightly crowning with good effect4 ,a lawn should never be hollow1--that is1 lower in the center than at the borders1--and broad lawns that are perfectly flat and level often appear to be hollow4 ,a slope of one foot in twenty or thirty is none too much for a pleasant grade in lawns of some extent4 ,in small places1 the grading may be done by the eye1 unless there are very particular conditions to meet4 ,in large or difficult areas1 it is well to have the place contoured by instruments4 ,this is particularly desirable if the grading is to be done on contract4 ,a basal or datum line is established1 above or below which all surfaces are to be shaped at measured distances4 ,even in small yards1 such a datum line is desirable for the best kind of work4 ,the terrace4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei4 ,a terrace in the distance2 in the foreground an ideal 8running out0 of the bank4 ,in places in which the natural slope is very perceptible1 there is a tendency to terrace the lawn for the purpose of making the various parts or sections of it more or less level and plane4 ,in nearly all cases1 however1 a terrace in a main lawn is objectionable4 ,it cuts the lawn into two or more portions1 and thereby makes it look smaller and spoils the effect of the picture4 ,a terrace always obtrudes a hard and rigid line1 and fastens the attention upon itself rather than upon the landscape4 ,terraces are also expensive to make and to keep in order2 and a shabby terrace is always distracting4 ,when formal effects are desired1 their success depends1 however1 very largely on the rigidity of the lines and the care with which they are maintained4 ,if a terrace is necessary1 it should be in the form of a retaining wall next the street1 or else it should lie next the building1 giving as broad and continuous a lawn as possible4 ,it should be remembered1 however1 that a terrace next a building should not be a part of the landscape1 but a part of the architecture2 that is1 it should serve as a base to the building4 ,it will at once be seen1 therefore1 that terraces are most in place against those buildings that have strong horizontal lines1 and they are little suitable against buildings with very broken lines and mixed or gothic features4 ,in order to join the terrace to the building1 it is usually advisable to place some architectural feature upon its crown1 as a balustrade1 and to ascend it by means of architectural steps4 ,the terrace elevation1 therefore1 becomes a part of the base of the building1 and the top of it is an esplanade4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fj4 ,treatment of a sloping lawn4 ,a simple and gradually sloping bank can nearly always be made to take the place of a terrace4 ,for example1 let the operator make a terrace1 with sharp angles above and below1 in the fall of the year2 in the spring1 he will find 7if he has not sodded it heavily7 that nature has taken the matter in hand and the upper angle of the terrace has been washed away and deposited in the lower angle1 and the result is the beginning of a good series of curves4 ,figure #ei shows an ideal slope1 with its double curve1 comprising a convex curve on the top of the bank1 and a concave curve at the lower part4 ,this is a slope that would ordinarily be terraced1 but in its present condition it is a part of the landscape picture4 ,it may be mown as readily as any other part of the lawn1 and it takes care of itself4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa4 ,treatment of a very steep bank4 ,the diagrams in ,fig4 #fj indicate poor and good treatment of a lawn4 ,the terraces are not needed in this case2 or if they are1 they should never be made as at #a4 ,the same dip could be taken up in a single curved bank1 as at #c1 but the better way1 in general1 is to give the treatment shown in #b4 ,figure #fa shows how a very high terrace1 #d1 can be supplaced by a sloping bank #e4 ,figure #fb shows a terrace that falls away too suddenly from the house4 ,the bounding lines4 ,in grading to the borders of the place1 it is not always necessary1 nor even desirable1 that a continuous contour should be maintained1 especially if the border is higher or lower than the lawn4 ,a somewhat irregular line of grade will appear to be most natural1 and lend itself best to effective planting4 ,this is specially true in the grade to watercourses1 which1 as a rule1 should be more or less devious or winding2 and the adjacent land should1 therefore1 present various heights and contours4 ,it is not always necessary1 however1 to make distinct banks along water-courses1 particularly if the place is small and the natural lay of the land is more or less plane or flat4 ,a very slight depression1 as shown in ,fig4 #fc1 may answer all the purposes of a water grade in such places4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb4 ,a terrace or slope that falls too suddenly away from a building4 ,there should be a level place or esplanade next the building1 if possible4 ,illustration3 #fc4 ,shaping the land down to a water-course4 ,if it is desirable that the lawn be as large and spacious as possible1 then the boundary of it should be removed4 ,take away the fences1 curbing1 and other right lines4 ,in rural places1 a sunken fence may sometimes be placed athwart the lawn at its farther edge for the purpose of keeping cattle off the place1 and thereby bring in the adjacent landscape4 ,figure #fd suggests how this may be done4 ,the depression near the foot of the lawn1 which is really a ditch and scarcely visible from the upper part of the place because of the slight elevation on its inner rim1 answers all the purposes of a fence4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fd4 ,a sunken fence athwart a foreground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,protecting a tree in filled land4 ,nearly all trees are injured if the dirt is filled about the base to the depth of a foot or more4 ,the natural base of the plant should be exposed so far as possible1 not only for protection of the tree1 but because the base of a tree trunk is one of its most distinctive features4 ,oaks1 maples1 and in fact most trees will lose their bark near the crown if the dirt is piled against them2 and this is especially true if the water tends to settle about the trunks4 ,figure #fe shows how this difficulty may be obviated4 ,a well is stoned up1 allowing a space of a foot or two on all sides1 and tile drains are laid about the base of the well1 as shown in the diagram at the right4 ,a grating to cover a well is also shown4 ,it is often possible to make a sloping bank just above the tree1 and to allow the ground to fall away from the roots on the lower side1 so that there is no well or hole2 but this is practicable only when the land below1 the tree is considerably lower than that above it4 ,if much of the surface is to be removed1 the good top earth should be saved1 and placed back on the area1 in which to sow the grass seed and to make the plantings4 ,this top soil may be piled at one side out of the way while the grading is proceeding4 ,walks and drives4 ,so far as the picture in the landscape is concerned1 walks and drives are blemishes4 ,since they are necessary1 however1 they must form a part of the landscape design4 ,they should be as few as possible1 not only because they interfere with the artistic composition1 but also because they are expensive to make and to maintain4 ,most places have too many1 rather than too few1 walks and drives4 ,small city areas rarely need a driveway entrance1 not even to the back door4 ,the back yard in ,fig4 #ci illustrates this point4 ,the distance from the house to the street on the back is about ninety feet1 yet there is no driveway in the place4 ,the coal and provisions are carried in2 and1 although the deliverymen may complain at first1 they very soon accept the inevitable4 ,it is not worth the while to maintain a drive in such a place for the convenience of truckmen and grocers4 ,neither is it often necessary to have a drive in the front yard if the house is within seventy-five or one hundred feet of the street4 ,when a drive is necessary1 it should enter1 if possible1 at the side of the residence1 and not make a circle in the front lawn4 ,this remark may not apply to areas of a half acre or more4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,forms of front walks4 ,the drives and walks should be direct4 ,they should go where they appear to go1 and should be practically the shortest distances between the points to be reached4 ,figure #ff illustrates some of the problems connected with walks to the front door4 ,a common type of walk is a1 and it is a nuisance4 ,the time that one loses in going around the cameo-set in the center would be sufficient1 if conserved1 to lengthen a man's life by several months or a year4 ,such a device has no merit in art or convenience4 ,walk b is better1 but still is not ideal1 inasmuch as it makes too much of a right-angled curve1 and the pedestrian desires to cut across the corner4 ,such a walk1 also1 usually extends too far beyond the corner of the house to make it appear to be direct4 ,it has the merit1 however1 of leaving the center of the lawn practically untouched4 ,the curve in walk d is ordinarily unnecessary unless the ground is rolling4 ,in small places1 like this1 it is better to have a straight walk directly from the sidewalk to the house4 ,in fact1 this is true in nearly all cases in which the lawn is not more than forty to seventy-five feet deep4 ,plan c is also inexcusable4 ,a straight walk would answer every purpose better4 ,any walk that passes the house1 and returns to it1 e1 is inexcusable unless it is necessary to make a very steep ascent4 ,if most of the traveling is in one direction from the house1 a walk like f may be the most direct and efficient4 ,it is known as a direct curve1 and is a compound of a concave and a convex curve4 ,it is essential that any service walk or drive1 however long1 should be continuous in direction and design from end to end4 ,figure #fg illustrates a long drive that contradicts this principle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fg4 ,a patched-up drive1 showing meaningless crooks4 ,it is a series of meaningless curves4 ,the reason for these curves is the fact that the drive was extended from time to time as new houses were added to the villa4 ,the reader will easily perceive how all the kinks might be taken out of this drive and one direct and bold curve be substituted4 ,the question of drainage1 curbing1 and gutters4 ,thorough drainage1 natural or artificial1 is essential to hard and permanent walks and drives4 ,this point is too often neglected4 ,on the draining and grading of residence streets a well-known landscape gardener1 ,o4,c4 ,simonds1 writes as follows in 8,park and ,cemetery03 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fh4 ,treatment of walk and drive in a suburban region4 ,there are no curbs4 8,the surface drainage is something that interests us whenever it rains or when the snow melts4 ,it has been customary to locate catch-basins for receiving the surface water at street intersections4 ,this arrangement causes most of the surface water from both streets to run past the crossings1 making it necessary to depress the pavement1 so that one must step down and up in going from one side of a street to the other1 or else a passageway for the water must be made through the crossing4 ,it may be said that a step down to the pavement and up again to the sidewalk at the street intersections is of no consequence1 but it is really more elegant and satisfactory to have the walk practically continuous 7,fig4 #fh74 ,with the catch-basin at the corner1 the stoppage of the inlet1 or a great fall of rain1 sometimes covers the crossing with water1 so one must either wade or go out of his way4 ,with catch-basins placed in the center of the blocks1 or1 if the blocks are long1 at some distance from the crossing1 the intersections can be kept relatively high and dry4 ,roadways are generally made crowning in the center so that water runs to the sides1 but frequently the fall lengthwise of the roadway is less than it should be4 ,city engineers are usually inclined to make the grade along the length of a street as nearly level as possible4 ,authorities who have given the subject of roads considerable study recommend a fall lengthwise of not less than one foot in one hundred and twenty-five1 nor more than six feet in one hundred4 ,such grades are not always feasible1 but a certain amount of variation in level can usually be made in a residence street which will make it much more pleasing in appearance1 and have certain practical advantages in keeping the street dry4 ,the water is usually confined to the edge of the pavement by curbing1 which may rise anywhere from four to fourteen inches above the surface4 ,this causes all the water falling on the roadway to seek the catch-basin and be wasted1 excepting for its use in flushing the sewer4 ,if the curbing1 which is really unnecessary in most cases1 were omitted1 much of the surface water would soak into the ground between the sidewalk and the pavement1 doing much good to trees1 shrubs1 and grass4 ,the roots of the trees naturally extend as far1 or farther1 than their branches1 and for their good the ground under the pavement and sidewalk should be supplied with a certain amount of moisture4 ,,vi4 ,a tree that gives character to a place4 ,,vi4 ,a tree that gives character to a place4 8,the arrangement made for the removal of surface water from the street must also take care of the surplus water from adjacent lots1 so there is a practical advantage in having the level of the street lower than that of the ground adjoining4 ,the appearance of houses and home grounds is also much better when they are higher than the street1 and for this reason it is usually desirable to keep the latter as low as possible and give the underground pipes sufficient covering to protect them from frost4 ,where the ground is high and the sewers very deep1 the grades should1 of course1 be determined with reference to surface conditions only4 ,it sometimes happens that this general arrangement of the grades of home grounds1 which is desirable on most accounts1 causes water from melting snow to flow over the sidewalk in the winter time1 where it may freeze and be dangerous to pedestrians4 ,a slight depression of the lot away from the sidewalk and then an ascent toward the house would usually remedy this difficulty1 and also make the house appear higher4 ,sometimes1 however1 a pipe should be placed underneath the sidewalk to allow water to reach the street from inside of the lot line4 ,the aim in surface drainage should always be to keep the traveled portions of the street in the most perfect condition for use4 ,the quick removal of surplus water from sidewalks1 crossings1 and roadways will help insure this result40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fi4 ,a common form of edge for walk or drive4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gj4 ,a better form4 ,these remarks concerning the curbings and hard edges of city streets may also be applied to walks and drives in small grounds4 ,figure #fi1 for example1 shows the common method of treating the edge of a walk1 by making a sharp and sheer elevation4 ,this edge needs constant trimming1 else it becomes unshapely2 and this trimming tends to widen the walk4 ,for general purposes1 a border1 like that shown in ,fig4 #gj1 is better4 ,the sod rolls over until it meets the walk1 and the lawn-mower is able to keep it in condition4 ,if it becomes more or less rough and irregular1 it is pounded down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga4 ,sod cutter4 ,if it is thought necessary to trim the edges of walks and drives1 then one of the various kinds of sod-cutters that are sold by dealers may be used for the purpose1 or an old hoe may have its shank straightened and the corners of the blade rounded off1 as shown in ,fig4 #ga1 and this will answer all purposes of the common sod-cutter2 or1 a sharp1 straight-edged spade may sometimes be used4 ,the loose overhanging grass on these edges is ordinarily cut by large shears made for the purpose4 ,walks and drives should be laid in such direction that they will tend to drain themselves2 but if it is necessary to have gutters1 these should be deep and sharp at the bottom1 for the water then draws together and tends to keep the gutter clean4 ,a shallow and rounded brick or cobble gutter does not clean itself2 it is very likely to fill with weeds1 and vehicles often drive in it4 ,the best gutters and curbs are now made of cement4 ,figure #gb shows a catch basin at the left of a walk or drive1 and the tile laid underneath for the purpose of carrying away the surface water4 ,the materials4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb4 ,draining the gutter and the drive4 ,the best materials for the main walks are cement and stone flagging4 ,in many soils1 however1 there is enough binding material in the land to make a good walk without the addition of any other material4 ,gravel1 cinders1 ashes1 and the like1 are nearly always inadvisable1 for they are liable to be loose in dry weather and sticky in wet weather4 ,in the laying of cement it is important that the walk be well drained by a layer of a foot or two of broken stone or brickbats1 unless the walk is on loose and leachy land or in a frostless country4 ,in back yards it is often best not to have any well-defined walk4 ,a ramble across the sod may be as good4 ,for a back walk1 over which delivery men are to travel1 one of the very best means is to sink a foot-wide plank into the earth on a level with the surface of the sod2 and it is not necessary that the walk be perfectly straight4 ,these walks do not interfere with the work of the lawn-mower1 and they take care of themselves4 ,when the plank rots1 at the expiration of five to ten years1 the plank is taken up and another one dropped in its place4 ,this ordinarily makes the best kind of a walk alongside a rear border4 7,plate ,,xi47 ,in gardens1 nothing is better for a walk than tanbark4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc4 ,planting alongside a walk4 ,the sides of walks and drives may often be planted with shrubbery4 ,it is not necessary that they always have prim and definite borders4 ,figure #gc illustrates a bank of foliage which breaks up the hard line of a walk1 and serves also as a border for the growing of flowers and interesting specimens4 ,this walk is also characterized by the absence of high and hard borders4 ,figure #fh illustrates this fact1 and also shows how the parking between the walk and the street may be effectively planted4 ,making the borders4 ,the borders and groups of planting are laid out on the paper plan4 ,there are several ways of transferring them to the ground4 ,sometimes they are not made until after the lawn is established1 when the inexperienced operator may more readily lay them out4 ,usually1 however1 the planting and lawn-making proceed more or less simultaneously4 ,after the shaping of the ground has been completed1 the areas are marked off by stakes1 by a limp rope laid on the surface1 or by a mark made with a rake handle4 ,the margin once determined1 the lawn may be seeded and rolled 7,fig4 #dj71 and the planting allowed to proceed as it may2 or the planting may all be done inside the borders1 and the seeding then be applied to the lawn4 ,if the main dimensions of the borders and beds are carefully measured and marked by stakes1 it is an easy matter to complete the outline by making a mark with a stick or rakestale4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd4 ,a bowered pathway4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge4 ,objects for pity4 ,the planting may be done in spring or fall1--in fall preferably if the stock is ready 7and of hardy species7 and the land in perfect condition of drainage2 usually1 however1 things are not ready early enough in the fall for any extended planting1 and the work is commonly done as soon as the ground settles in spring 7see ,chapter ,v74 ,head the bushes back4 ,dig up the entire area4 ,spade up the ground1 set the bushes thick1 hoe them at intervals1 and then let them go4 ,if you do not like the bare earth between them1 sow in the seeds of hardy annual flowers1 like phlox1 petunia1 alyssum1 and pinks4 ,never set the bushes in holes dug in the old sod 7,fig4 #ge74 ,the person who plants his shrubs in holes in the sward does not seriously mean to make any foliage mass1 and it is likely that he does not know what relation the border mass has to artistic planting4 ,the illustration1 ,fig4 #gf1 shows the office that a shrubbery may perform in relation to a building2 this particular building was erected in an open field4 ,illustration3 #gf4 ,a border group1 limiting the space next the residence and separating it from the fields and the clothes-yards4 ,i have said to plant the bushes thick4 ,this is for quick effect4 ,it is an easy matter to thin the plantation if it becomes too thick4 ,all common bushes may usually be planted as close as two to three feet apart each way1 especially if one gets many of them from the fields1 so that he does not have to buy them4 ,if there are not sufficient of the permanent bushes for thick planting1 the spaces may be tilled temporarily by cheaper or commoner bushes3 but do not forget to remove the fillers as rapidly as the others need the room4 ,making the lawn4 ,the first thing to be done in the making of a lawn is to establish the proper grade4 ,this should be worked out with the greatest care1 from the fact that when a lawn is once made1 its level and contour should never be changed4 ,preparing the ground4 ,the next important step is to prepare the ground deeply and thoroughly4 ,the permanence of the sod will depend very largely on the fertility and preparation of the soil in the beginning4 ,the soil should be deep and porous1 so that the roots will strike far into it1 and be enabled thereby to withstand droughts and cold winters4 ,the best means of deepening the soil1 as explained in ,chapter ,,iv1 is by tile-draining2 but it can also be accomplished to some extent by the use of the subsoil plow and by trenching4 ,since the lawn cannot be refitted1 however1 the subsoil is likely to fall back into a hard-pan in a few years if it has been subsoiled or trenched1 whereas a good tile-drain affords a permanent amelioration of the under soil4 ,soils that are naturally loose and porous may not need this extra attention4 ,in fact1 lands that are very loose and sandy may require to be packed or cemented rather than loosened4 ,one of the best means of doing this is to fill them with humus1 so that the water will not leach through them rapidly4 ,nearly all lands that are designed for lawns are greatly benefited by heavy dressings of manure thoroughly worked into them in the beginning1 although it is possible to get the ground too rich on the surface at first2 it is not necessary that all the added plant-food be immediately available4 ,the lawn will profit by an annual application of good chemical fertilizer4 ,ground bone is one of the best materials to apply1 at the rate of three hundred to four hundred pounds to the acre4 ,it is usually sown broadcast1 early in spring4 ,dissolved ,south ,carolina rock may be used instead1 but the application will need to be heavier if similar results are expected4 ,yellow and poor grass may often be reinvigorated by an application of two hundred to three hundred pounds to the acre of nitrate of soda4 ,wood ashes are often good1 particularly on soils that tend to be acid4 ,muriate of potash is not so often used1 although it may produce excellent results in some cases4 ,there is no invariable rule4 ,the best plan is for the lawn-maker to try the different treatments on a little piece or corner of the lawn2 in this way1 he should secure more valuable information than can be got otherwise4 ,the first operation after draining and grading is the plowing or spading of the surface4 ,if the area is large enough to admit a team1 the surface is worked down by means of harrows of various kinds4 ,afterwards it is leveled by means of shovels and hoes1 and finally by garden rakes4 ,the more finely and completely the soil is pulverized1 the quicker the lawn may be secured1 and the more permanent are the results4 ,the kind of grass4 ,the best grass for the body or foundation of lawns in the ,north is ,june-grass or ,kentucky blue-grass 7,poa pratensis71 not ,canada blue-grass 7,poa compressa74 ,whether white clover or other seed should be sown with the grass seed is very largely a personal question4 ,some persons like it1 and others do not4 ,if it is desired1 it may be sown directly after the grass seed is sown1 at the rate of one to four quarts or more to the acre4 ,for special purposes1 other grasses may be used for lawns4 ,various kinds of lawn mixtures are on the market1 for particular uses1 and some of them are very good4 ,a superintendent of parks in one of the ,eastern cities gives the following experience on kinds of grass3 8,for the meadows on the large parks we generally use extra recleaned ,kentucky blue-grass1 red-top1 and white clover1 in the proportion of thirty pounds of blue-grass1 thirty pounds of red-top1 and ten pounds of white clover to the acre4 ,sometimes we use for smaller lawns the blue-grass and red-top without the white clover4 ,we have used blue-grass1 red-top1 and ,rhode ,island bent in the proportion of twenty pounds each1 and ten pounds of white clover to the acre1 but the ,rhode ,island bent is so expensive that we rarely buy it4 ,for grass in shady places1 as in a grove1 we use ,kentucky blue-grass and rough-stalked meadow-grass 7,poa trivialis7 in equal parts at the rate of seventy pounds to the acre4 ,on the golf links we use blue-grass without any mixture on some of the putting greens2 sometimes we use ,rhode ,island bent1 and on sandy greens we use red-top4 ,we always buy each kind of seed separately and mix them1 and are particular to get the best extra recleaned of each kind4 ,frequently we get the seed of three different dealers to secure the best40 ,in most cases1 the ,june-grass germinates and grows somewhat slowly1 and it is usually advisable to sow four or five quarts of timothy grass to the acre with the ,june-grass seed4 ,the timothy comes on quickly and makes a green the first year1 and the ,june-grass soon crowds it out4 ,it is not advisable to sow grain in the lawn as a nurse to the grass4 ,if the land is well prepared and the seed is sown in the cool part of the year1 the grass ought to grow much better without the other crops than with them4 ,lands that are hard and lacking in nitrogen may be benefited if crimson clover 7four or five quarts7 is sown with the grass seed4 ,this will make a green the first year1 and will break up the subsoil by its deep roots and supply nitrogen1 and being an annual plant it does not become troublesome1 if mown frequently enough to prevent seeding4 ,in the southern states1 where ,june-grass does not thrive1 ,bermuda-grass is the leading species used for lawns2 although there are two or three others1 as the goose-grass of ,florida1 that may be used in special localities4 ,bermuda-grass is usually propagated by roots1 but imported seed 7said to be from ,australia7 is now available4 ,the ,bermuda-grass becomes reddish after frost2 and ,english rye-grass may be sown on the ,bermuda sod in ,august or ,september far south for winter green2 in spring the ,bermuda crowds it out4 ,when and how to sow the seed4 ,the lawn should be seeded when the land is moist and the weather comparatively cool4 ,it is ordinarily most advisable to grade the lawn in late summer or early fall1 because the land is then comparatively dry and can be moved cheaply4 ,the surface can also be got in condition1 perhaps1 for sowing late in ,september or early in ,october in the ,north2 or1 if the surface has required much filling1 it is well to leave it in a somewhat unfinished state until spring1 in order that the soft places may settle and then be refilled before the seeding is done4 ,if the seed can be sown early in the fall1 before the rains come1 the grass should be large enough1 except in northernmost localities1 to withstand the winter2 but it is generally most desirable to sow in very early spring4 ,if the land has been thoroughly prepared in the fall1 the seed may be sown on one of the late light snows in spring and as the snow melts the seed is carried into the land1 and germinates very quickly4 ,if the seed is sown when the land is loose and workable1 it should be raked in2 and if the weather promises to be dry or the sowing is late1 the surface should be rolled4 ,the seeding is usually done broadcast by hand on all small areas1 the sower going both ways 7at right angles7 across the area to lessen the likelihood of missing any part4 ,steep banks are sometimes sown with seed that is mixed in mold or earth to which water is added until the material will just run through the spout of a watering-can2 the material is then poured on the surface1 which is first made loose4 ,inasmuch as we desire to secure many very fine stalks of grass rather than a few large ones1 it is essential that the seed be sown very thick4 ,three to five bushels to the acre is the ordinary application of grass seed 7page #gi74 ,securing a firm sod4 ,the lawn will ordinarily produce a heavy crop of weeds the first year1 especially if much stable manure has been used4 ,the weeds need not be pulled1 unless such vicious intruders as docks or other perennial plants gain a foothold2 but the area should be mown frequently with a lawn-mower4 ,the annual weeds die at the approach of cold1 and they are kept down by the use of the lawn-mower1 while the grass is not injured4 ,it rarely happens that every part of the lawn will have an equal catch of grass4 ,the bare or sparsely seeded places should be sown again every fall and spring until the lawn is finally complete4 ,in fact1 it requires constant attention to keep a lawn in good sod1 and it must be continuously in the process of making4 ,it is not every lawn area1 or every part of the area1 that is adapted to grass2 and it may require long study to find out why it is not4 ,bare or poor places should be hetcheled up strongly with an iron-toothed rake1 perhaps fertilized again1 and then reseeded4 ,it is unusual that a lawn does not need repairing every year4 ,lawns of several acres which become thin and mossy may be treated in essentially the same way by dragging them with a spike-tooth harrow in early spring as soon as the land is dry enough to hold a team4 ,chemical fertilizers and grass seed are now sown liberally1 and the area is perhaps dragged again1 although this is not always essential2 and then the roller is applied to bring the surface into a smooth condition4 ,to plow up these poor lawns is to renew all the battle with weeds1 and really to make no progress2 for1 so long as the contour is correct1 the lawn may be repaired by these surface applications4 ,the stronger the sward1 the less the trouble with weeds2 yet it is practically impossible to keep dandelions and some other weeds out of lawns except by cutting them out with a knife thrust underground 7there are good spuds manufactured for this purpose1 ,figs4 #ajh to #aaa74 ,if the sod is very thin after the weeds are removed1 sow more grass seed4 ,the mowing4 ,the mowing of the lawn should begin as soon as the grass is tall enough in the spring and continue at the necessary intervals throughout the summer4 ,the most frequent mowings are needed early in the season1 when the grass is growing rapidly4 ,if it is mown frequently--say once or twice a week--in the periods of most vigorous growth1 it will not be necessary to rake off the mowings4 ,in fact1 it is preferable to leave the grass on the lawn1 to be driven into the surface by the rains and to afford a mulch4 ,it is only when the lawn has been neglected and the grass has got so high that it becomes unsightly on the lawn1 or when the growth is unusually luxurious1 that it is necessary to take it off4 ,in dry weather care should be taken not to mow the lawn any more than absolutely necessary4 ,the grass should be rather long when it goes into the winter4 ,in the last two months of open weather the grass makes small growth1 and it tends to lop down and to cover the surface densely1 which it should be allowed to do4 ,fall treatment4 ,as a rule1 it is not necessary to rake all the leaves off lawns in the fall4 ,they afford an excellent mulch1 and in the autumn months the leaves on the lawn are among the most attractive features of the landscape4 ,the leaves generally blow off after a time1 and if the place has been constructed with an open center and heavily planted sides1 the leaves will be caught in these masses of trees and shrubs and there afford an excellent mulch4 ,the ideal landscape planting1 therefore1 takes care of itself to a very large extent4 ,it is bad economy to burn the leaves1 especially if one has herbaceous borders1 roses1 and other plants that need a mulch4 ,when the leaves are taken off the borders in the spring1 they should be piled with the manure or other refuse and there allowed to pass into compost 7pages #aaj1 #aaa74 ,if the land has been well prepared in the beginning1 and its life is not sapped by large trees1 it is ordinarily unnecessary to cover the lawn with manure in the fall4 ,the common practice of covering grass with raw manure should be discouraged because the material is unsightly and unsavory1 and the same results can be got with the use of commercial fertilizers combined with dressings of very fine and well-rotted compost or manure1 and by not raking the lawn too clean of the mowings of the grass4 ,spring treatment4 ,every spring the lawn should be firmed by means of a roller1 or1 if the area is small1 by means of a pounder1 or the back of a spade in the hands of a vigorous man4 ,the lawn-mower itself tends to pack the surface4 ,if there are little irregularities in the surface1 caused by depressions of an inch or so1 and the highest places are not above the contour-line of the lawn1 the surface may be brought to level by spreading fine1 mellow soil over it1 thereby filling up the depressions4 ,the grass will quickly grow through this soil4 ,little hummocks may be cut off1 some of the earth removed1 and the sod replaced4 ,watering lawns4 ,the common watering of lawns by means of lawn sprinklers usually does more harm than good4 ,this results from the fact that the watering is generally done in clear weather1 and the water is thrown through the air in very fine spray1 so that a considerable part of it is lost in vapor4 ,the ground is also hot1 and the water does not pass deep into the soil4 ,if the lawn is watered at all1 it should be soaked2 turn on the hose at nightfall and let it run until the land is wet as deep as it is dry1 then move the hose to another place4 ,a thorough soaking like this1 a few times in a dry summer1 will do more good than sprinkling every day4 ,if the land is deeply prepared in the first place1 so that the roots strike far into the soil1 there is rarely need of watering unless the place is arid1 the season unusually dry1 or the moisture sucked out by trees4 ,the surface sprinkling engenders a tendency of roots to start near the surface1 and therefore the more the lawn is lightly watered1 the greater is the necessity for watering it4 ,sodding the lawn4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg4 ,cutting sod for a lawn4 ,persons who desire to secure a lawn very quickly may sod the area rather than seed it1 although the most permanent results are usually secured by seeding4 ,sodding1 however1 is expensive1 and is to be used only about the borders of the place1 near buildings1 or in areas in which the owner can afford to expend considerable money4 ,the best sod is that which is secured from an old pasture1 and for two or three reasons4 ,in the first place1 it is the right kind of grass1 the ,june-grass 7in the ,north7 being the species that oftenest runs into pastures and crowds out other plants4 ,again1 it has been so closely eaten down1 especially if it has been pastured by sheep1 that it has made a very dense and well-filled sod1 which can be rolled up in thin layers4 ,in the third place1 the soil in old pastures is likely to be rich from the droppings of animals4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gh4 ,economical sodding1 the spaces being seeded4 ,in taking sod1 it is important that it be cut very thin4 ,an inch and a half thick is usually ample4 ,it is ordinarily rolled up in strips a foot wide and of any length that will allow the rolls to be handled by one or two men4 ,a foot-wide board is laid upon the turf1 and the sod cut along either edge of it4 ,one person then stands upon the strip of sod and rolls it towards himself1 while another cuts it loose with a spade1 as shown in ,fig4 #gg4 ,when the sod is laid1 it is unrolled on the land and then firmly beaten down4 ,land that is to be sodded should be soft on top1 so that the sod can be well pounded into it4 ,if the sod is not well pounded down1 it will settle unevenly and present a bad surface1 and will also dry out and perhaps not live through a dry spell4 ,it is almost impossible to pound down sod too firm4 ,if the land is freshly plowed1 it is important that the borders that are sodded be an inch or two lower than the adjacent land1 because the land will settle in the course of a few weeks4 ,in a dry time1 the sod may be covered from a half inch to an inch with fine1 mellow soil as a mulch4 ,the grass should grow through this soil without difficulty4 ,upon terraces and steep banks1 the sod may be held in place by driving wooden pegs through it4 ,a combination of sodding and seeding4 ,an 8economical sodding0 is described in 8,american ,garden0 7,fig4 #gh73 8,to obtain sufficient sod of suitable quality for covering terrace-slopes or small blocks that for any reason cannot well be seeded is often a difficult matter4 ,in the accompanying illustration we show how a surface of sod may be used to good advantage over a larger area than its real measurement represents4 ,this is done by laying the sods1 cut in strips from six to ten inches wide1 in lines and cross-lines1 and after filling the spaces with good soil1 sowing these spaces with grass-seed4 ,should the catch of seed for any reason be poor1 the sod of the strips will tend to spread over the spaces between them1 and failure to obtain a good sward within a reasonable time is almost out of the question4 ,also1 if one needs sod and has no place from which to cut it except the lawn1 by taking up blocks of sod1 leaving strips and cross-strips1 and treating the surface as described1 the bare places are soon covered with green40 ,sowing with sod4 ,lawns may be sown with pieces of sods rather than with seeds4 ,sods may be cut up into bits an inch or two square1 and these may be scattered broadcast over the area and rolled into the land4 ,while it is preferable that the pieces should lie right side up1 this is not necessary if they are cut thin1 and sown when the weather is cool and moist4 ,sowing pieces of sod is good practice when it is difficult to secure a catch from seed4 ,if one were to maintain a permanent sod garden1 at one side1 for the selecting and growing of the very best sod 7as he would grow a stock seed of corn or beans71 this method should be the most rational of all procedures1 at least until the time that we produce strains of lawn grass that come true from seeds4 ,other ground covers4 ,under trees1 and in other shady places1 it may be necessary to cover the ground with something else than grass4 ,good plants for such uses are periwinkle 7,vinca minor1 an evergreen trailer1 often called 8running myrtle071 moneywort 7,lysimachia nummularia71 lily-of-the-valley1 and various kinds of sedge or carex4 ,in some dark or shady places1 and under some kinds of trees1 it is practically impossible to secure a good lawn1 and one may be obliged to resort to decumbent bushes or other forms of planting4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,handling ,,of ,,the ,,land ,almost any land contains enough food for the growing of good crops1 but the food elements may be chemically unavailable1 or there may be insufficient water to dissolve them4 ,it is too long a story to explain at this place1--the philosophy of tillage and of enriching the land1--and the reader who desires to make excursions into this delightful subject should consult ,king on 8,the ,soil10 ,roberts on 8,the ,fertility of the ,land10 and recent writings of many kinds4 ,the reader must accept my word for it that tilling the land renders it productive4 ,i must call my reader's attention to the fact that this book is on the making of gardens1--on the planning and the doing of the work from the year's end to end1--not on the appreciation of a completed garden4 ,i want the reader to know that a garden is not worth having unless he makes it with his own hands or helps to make it4 ,he must work himself into it4 ,he must know the pleasure of preparing the land1 of contending with bugs and all other difficulties1 for it is only thereby that he comes into appreciation of the real value of a garden4 ,i am saying this to prepare the reader for the work that ,i lay out in this chapter4 ,i want him to know the real joy that there is in the simple processes of breaking the earth and fitting it for the seed4 ,the more pains he takes with these processes1 naturally the keener will be his enjoyment of them4 ,no one can have any other satisfaction than that of mere manual exercise if he does not know the reasons for what he does with his soil4 ,i am sure that my keenest delight in a garden comes in the one month of the opening season and the other month of the closing season4 ,these are the months when ,i work hardest and when ,i am nearest the soil4 ,to feel the thrust of the spade1 to smell the sweet earth1 to prepare for the young plants and then to prepare for the closing year1 to handle the tools with discrimination1 to guard against frost1 to be close with the rain and wind1 to see the young things start into life and then to see them go down into winter1--these are some of the best of the joys of gardening4 ,in this spirit we should take up the work of handling the land4 ,the draining of the land4 ,illustration3 ,fig #gi4 ,ditching tools4 ,the first step in the preparation of land1 after it has been thoroughly cleared and subdued of forest or previous vegetation1 is to attend to the drainage4 ,all land that is springy1 low1 and 8sour10 or that holds the water in puddles for a day or two following heavy rains1 should be thoroughly underdrained4 ,draining also improves the physical condition of the soil even when the land does not need the removal of superfluous water4 ,in hard lands1 it lowers the water-table1 or tends to loosen and aerate the soil to a greater depth1 and thereby enables it to hold more water without injury to plants4 ,drainage is particularly useful in dry but hard garden lands1 because these lands are often in sod or permanently planted1 and the soil cannot be broken up by deep tillage4 ,tile drainage is permanent subsoiling4 ,hard-baked cylindrical tiles make the best and most permanent drains4 ,the ditches usually should not be less than two and one-half feet deep1 and three or three and one-half feet is often better4 ,in most garden areas1 drains may be laid with profit as often as every thirty feet4 ,give all drains a good and continuous fall4 ,for single drains and for laterals not over four hundred or five hundred feet long1 a two and one-half inch tile is sufficient1 unless much water must be carried from swales or springs4 ,in stony countries1 flat stones may be used in place of tiles1 and persons who are skillful in laying them make drains as good and permanent as those constructed of tiles4 ,the tiles or stones are covered with sods1 straw1 or paper1 and the earth is then filled in4 ,this temporary cover keeps the loose dirt out of the tiles1 and by the time it is rotted the earth has settled into place4 ,in small places1 ditching must ordinarily be done wholly with hand tools4 ,a common spade and pick are the implements usually employed1 although a spade with a long handle and narrow blade1 as shown in ,fig4 #gi1 is very useful for excavating the bottom of the ditch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hj4 ,how to use a spade4 ,in most cases1 much time and muscle are wasted in the use of the pick4 ,if the digging is properly done1 a spade can be used to cut the soil1 even in fairly hard clay land1 with no great difficulty4 ,the essential point in the easy use of the spade is to manage so that one edge of the spade always cuts a free or exposed surface4 ,the illustration 7,fig4 #hj7 will explain the method4 ,when the operator endeavors to cut the soil in the method shown at ,a1 he is obliged to break both edges at every thrust of the tool2 but when he cuts the slice diagonally1 first throwing his spade to the right and then to the left1 as shown at ,b1 he cuts only one side and is able to make progress without the expenditure of useless effort4 ,these remarks will apply to any spading of the land4 ,in large areas1 horses may be used to facilitate the work of ditching4 ,there are ditching plows and machines1 which1 however1 need not be discussed here2 but three or four furrows may be thrown out in either direction with a strong plow1 and a subsoil plow be run behind to break up the hard-pan1 and this may reduce the labor of digging as much as one-half4 ,when the excavating is completed1 the bottom of the ditch is evened up by means of a line or level1 and the bed for the tiles is prepared by the use of a goose-neck scoop1 shown in ,fig4 #gi4 ,it is very important that the outlets of drains be kept free of weeds and litter4 ,if the outlet is built up with mason work1 to hold the end of the tile intact1 very much will be added to the permanency of the drain4 ,,vii4 ,bedding with palms4 ,if a bricked-up pit is made about the porch1 pot palms may be plunged in it in spring and pot conifers in winter2 and fall bulbs in tin cans 7so that the receptacles will not split with frost7 may be plunged among the evergreens4 ,,vii4 ,bedding with palms4 ,if a bricked-up pit is made about the porch1 pot palms may be plunged in it in spring and pot conifers in winter2 and fall bulbs in tin cans 7so that the receptacles will not split with frost7 may be plunged among the evergreens4 ,trenching and subsoiling4 ,although underdraining is the most important means of increasing the depth of the soil1 it is not always practicable to lay drains through garden lands4 ,in such cases1 recourse is had to very deep preparation of the land1 either every year or every two or three years4 ,illustration3 #ha4 ,trenching with a spade4 ,in small garden areas1 this deep preparation will ordinarily be done by trenching with a spade4 ,this operation of trenching consists in breaking up the earth two spades deep4 ,figure #ha explains the operation4 ,the section at the left shows a single spading1 the earth being thrown over to the right1 leaving the subsoil exposed the whole width of the bed4 ,the section at the right shows a similar operation1 so far as the surface spading is concerned1 but the subsoil has also been cut as fast as it has been exposed4 ,this under soil is not thrown out on the surface1 and usually it is not inverted2 but a spadeful is lifted and then allowed to drop so that it is thoroughly broken and pulverized in the manipulation4 ,in all lands that have a hard and high subsoil1 it is usually essential to practice trenching if the best results are to be secured2 this is especially true when deep-rooted plants1 as beets1 parsnips1 and other root-crops1 are to be grown2 it prepares the soil to hold moisture2 and it allows the water of heavy rainfall to pass to greater depths rather than to be held as puddles and in mud on the surface4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hb4 ,home-made subsoil plow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hc4 ,forms of subsoil plows4 ,in places that can be entered with a team1 deep and heavy plowing to the depth of seven to ten inches may be desirable on hard lands1 especially if such lands cannot be plowed very often2 and the depth of the pulverization is often extended by means of the subsoil plow4 ,this subsoil plow does not turn a furrow1 but a second team draws the implement behind the ordinary plow1 and the bottom of the furrow is loosened and broken4 ,figure #hb shows a home-made subsoil plow1 and ,fig4 #hc two types of commercial tools4 ,it must be remembered that it is the hardest lands that need subsoiling and that1 therefore1 the subsoil plow should be exceedingly strong4 ,preparation of the surface4 ,every pains should be taken to prevent the surface of the land from becoming crusty or baked1 for the hard surface establishes a capillary connection with the moist soil beneath1 and is a means of passing off the water into the atmosphere4 ,loose and mellow soil also has more free plant-food1 and provides the most congenial conditions for the growth of plants4 ,the tools that one may use in preparing the surface soil are now so many and so well adapted to the work that the gardener should find special satisfaction in handling them4 ,if the soil is a stiff clay1 it is often advisable to plow it or dig it in the fall1 allowing it to lie rough and loose all winter1 so that the weathering may pulverize and slake it4 ,if the clay is very tenacious1 it may be necessary to throw leafmold or litter over the surface before the spading is done1 to prevent the soil from running together or cementing before spring4 ,with mellow and loamy lands1 however1 it is ordinarily best to leave the preparation of the surface until spring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hd4 ,improvising a spading-fork4 ,in the preparation of the surface1 the ordinary hand tools1 or spades and shovels1 may be used4 ,if1 however1 the soil is mellow1 a fork is a better tool than a spade1 from the fact that it does not slice the soil1 but tends to break it up into smaller and more irregular masses4 ,the ordinary spading-fork1 with strong flat tines1 is a most serviceable tool2 a spading-fork for soft ground may be made from an old manure fork by cutting down the tines1 as shown in ,fig4 #hd4 ,it is important that the soil should not be sticky when it is prepared1 as it is likely to become hard and baked and the physical condition be greatly injured4 ,however1 land that is too wet for the reception of seeds may still be thrown up loose with a spade or fork and allowed to dry1 and after two or three days the surface preparation may be completed with the hoe and the rake4 ,in ordinary soils the hoe is the tool to follow the spading-fork or the spade1 but for the final preparation of the surface a steel garden-rake is the ideal implement4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #he4 ,excellent types of surface plows4 ,in areas1 large enough to admit horse tools1 the land can be fitted more economically by means of the various types of plows1 harrows1 and cultivators that are to be had of any dealer in agricultural implements4 ,figure #he shows various types of model surface plows4 ,the one shown at the upper left-hand is considered by ,roberts1 in his 8,fertility of the ,land10 to be the ideal general-purpose plow1 as respects shape and method of construction4 ,the type of machine to be used must be determined wholly by the character of the land and the purposes for which it is to be fitted4 ,lands that are hard and cloddy may be reduced by the use of the disk or ,acme harrows1 shown in ,fig4 #hf2 but those that are friable and mellow may not need such heavy and vigorous tools4 ,on these mellower lands1 the spring-tooth harrow1 types of which are shown in ,fig4 #hg1 may follow the plow4 ,on very hard lands1 these spring-tooth harrows may follow the disk and ,acme types4 ,the final preparation of the land is accomplished by light implements of the pattern shown in ,fig4 #hh4 ,these spike-tooth smoothing-harrows do for the field what the hand-rake does for the garden-bed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hf4 ,disk and ,acme harrows1 for the first working of hard or cloddy land4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hg4 ,spring-tooth harrows4 ,if it is desired to put a very fine finish on the surface of the ground by means of horse tools1 implements like the ,breed or ,wiard weeder may be used4 ,these are constructed on the principle of a spring-tooth horse hay-rake1 and are most excellent1 not only for fitting loose land for ordinary seeding1 but also for subsequent tillage4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hh4 ,spike-tooth harrow4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #hi4 ,spike-tooth and spring-tooth cultivators4 ,in areas that cannot be entered with a team1 various one-horse implements may do the work that is accomplished by heavier tools in the field4 ,the spring-tooth cultivator1 shown at the right in ,fig4 #hi1 may do the kind of work that the spring-tooth harrows are expected to do on larger areas2 and various adjustable spike-tooth cultivators1 two of which are shown in ,fig4 #hi1 are useful for putting a finish on the land4 ,these tools are also available for the tilling of the surface when crops are growing4 ,the spring-tooth cultivator is a most useful tool for cultivating raspberries and blackberries1 and other strong-rooted crops4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ij4 ,good type of wheel-hoe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ia4 ,a single-blade wheel-hoe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ib4 ,double wheel-hoe1 useful in straddling the row4 ,for still smaller areas1 in which horses cannot be used and which are still too large for tilling wholly by means of hoes and rakes1 various types of wheel-hoes may be used4 ,these implements are now made in great variety of patterns1 to suit any taste and almost any kind of tillage4 ,for the best results1 it is essential that the wheel should be large and with a broad tire1 that it may override obstacles4 ,figure #ij shows an excellent type of wheel-hoe with five blades1 and ,fig4 #ia shows one with a single blade and that may be used in very narrow rows4 ,two-wheeled hoes 7,fig4 #ib7 are often used1 particularly when it is necessary to have the implement very steady1 and the wheels may straddle the rows of low plants4 ,many of these wheel-hoes are provided with various shapes of blades1 so that the implement may be adjusted to many kinds of work4 ,nearly all the weeding of beds of onions and like plants can be done by means of these wheel-hoes1 if the ground is well prepared in the beginning2 but it must be remembered that they are of comparatively small use on very hard and cloddy and stony lands4 ,the saving of moisture4 ,the garden must have a liberal supply of moisture4 ,the first effort toward securing this supply should be the saving of the rainfall water4 ,proper preparation and tillage put the land in such condition that it holds the water of rainfall4 ,land that is very hard and compact may shed the rainfall1 particularly if it is sloping and if the surface is bare of vegetation4 ,if the hard-pan is near the surface1 the land cannot hold much water1 and any ordinary rainfall may fill it so full that it overflows1 or puddles stand on the surface4 ,on land in good tilth1 the water of rainfall sinks away1 and is not visible as free water4 ,as soon as the moisture begins to pass from the superincumbent atmosphere1 evaporation begins from the surface of the land4 ,any body interposed between the land and the air checks this evaporation2 this is why there is moisture underneath a board4 ,it is impracticable1 however1 to floor over the garden with boards1 but any covering will have similar effect1 but in different degree4 ,a covering of sawdust or leaves or dry ashes will prevent the loss of moisture4 ,so will a covering of dry earth4 ,now1 inasmuch as the land is already covered with earth1 it only remains to loosen up a layer or stratum on top in order to secure the mulch4 ,all this is only a roundabout way of saying that frequent shallow surface tillage conserves moisture4 ,the comparatively dry and loose mulch breaks up the capillary connection between the surface soil and the under soil1 and while the mulch itself may be useless as a foraging ground for roots1 it more than pays its keep by its preventing of the loss of moisture2 and its own soluble plant-foods are washed down into the lower soil by the rains4 ,as often as the surface becomes compact1 the mulch should be renewed or repaired by the use of the rake or cultivator or harrow4 ,persons are deceived by supposing that so long as the surface remains moist1 the land is in the best possible condition2 a moist surface may mean that water is rapidly passing off into the atmosphere4 ,a dry surface may mean that less evaporation is taking place1 and there may be moister earth beneath it2 and moisture is needed below the surface rather than on top4 ,a finely raked bed is dry on top2 but the footprints of the cat remain moist1 for the animal packed the soil wherever it stepped and a capillary connection was established with the water reservoir beneath4 ,gardeners advise firming the earth over newly planted seeds to hasten germination4 ,this is essential in dry times2 but what we gain in hastening germination we lose in the more rapid evaporation of moisture4 ,the lesson is that we should loosen the soil as soon as the seeds have germinated1 to reduce evaporation to the minimum4 ,large seeds1 as beans and peas1 may be planted deep and have the earth firmed about them1 and then the rake may be applied to the surface to stop the rise of moisture before it reaches the air4 ,two illustrations1 adapted from ,roberts's 8,fertility10 show good and poor preparation of the land4 ,figure #ic is a section of land twelve inches deep4 ,the under soil has been finely broken and pulverized and then compacted4 ,it is mellow but firm1 and is an excellent water reservoir4 ,three inches of the surface is a mulch of loose and dry earth4 ,figure #id shows an earth-mulch1 but it is too shallow2 and the under soil is so open and cloddy that the water runs through it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ic4 ,to illustrate good preparation of ground4 ,illustration3 #id4 ,to illustrate poor preparation of ground4 ,when the land is once properly prepared1 the soil-mulch is maintained by surface-working tools4 ,in field practice1 these tools are harrows and horse cultivators of various kinds2 in home garden practice they are wheel-hoes1 rakes1 and many patterns of hand hoes and scarifiers1 with finger-weeders and other small implements for work directly among the plants4 ,a garden soil is not in good condition when it is hard and crusted on top4 ,the crust may be the cause of wasting water1 it keeps out the air1 and in general it is an uncongenial physical condition2 but its evaporation of water is probably its chief defect4 ,instead of pouring water on the land1 therefore1 we first attempt to keep the moisture in the land4 ,if1 however1 the soil becomes so dry in spite of you that the plants do not thrive1 then water the bed4 ,do not sprinkle it1 but water it4 ,wet it clear through at evening4 ,then in the morning1 when the earth begins to dry1 loosen the surface again to keep the water from getting away4 ,sprinkling the plants every day or two is one of the surest ways of spoiling them4 ,we may water the ground with a garden-rake4 ,hand tools for weeding and subsequent tillage and other hand work4 ,any of the cultivators and wheel-hoes are as useful for the subsequent tilling of the crop as for the initial preparation of the land1 but there are other tools also that greatly facilitate the keeping of the plantation in order4 ,yet wholly aside from the value of a tool as an implement of tillage and as a weapon for the pursuit of weeds1 is its merit merely as a shapely and interesting instrument4 ,a man will take infinite pains to choose a gun or a fishing-rod to his liking1 and a woman gives her best attention to the selecting of an umbrella2 but a hoe is only a hoe and a rake only a rake4 ,if one puts his personal choice into the securing of plants for a garden1 so should he discriminate in the choice of hand tools1 to secure those that are light1 trim1 well made1 and precisely adapted to the work to be accomplished4 ,a case of neat garden tools ought to be a great joy to a joyful gardener4 ,so ,i am willing to enlarge on the subject of hoes and their kind4 ,the hoe4 ,illustration3 #ie4 ,useful forms of hoe-blades4 ,the common rectangular-bladed hoe is so thoroughly established in the popular mind that it is very difficult to introduce new patterns1 even though they may be intrinsically superior4 ,as a general-purpose tool1 it is no doubt true that a common hoe is better than any of its modifications1 but there are various patterns of hoe-blades that are greatly superior for special uses1 and which ought to appeal to any quiet soul who loves a garden4 ,the great width of the common blade does not admit of its being used in very narrow rows or very close to delicate plants1 and it does not allow of the deep stirring of the soil in narrow spaces4 ,it is also difficult to enter hard ground with such a broad face4 ,various pointed blades have been introduced from time to time1 and most of them have merit4 ,some persons prefer two points to the hoe1 as shown in ,marvin's blades1 in ,fig4 #ie4 ,these interesting shapes represent the suggestions of gardeners who will not be bound by what the market affords1 but who have blades cut and fitted for their own satisfaction4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #if4 ,a stack of gardening weapons1 comprising some of ,tarryer's weeding spuds and thimbles4 ,persons who followed the entertaining writings of one who called himself ,mr4 ,a4,b4 ,tarryer1 in 8,american ,garden10 a few years back1 will recall the great variety of implements that he advised for the purpose of extirpating his hereditary foes1 the weeds4 ,a variety of these blades and tools is shown in ,figs4 #if and #ig4 ,i shall let ,mr4 ,tarryer tell his story at some length in order to lead my reader painlessly into a new field of gardening pleasures4 ,mr4 ,tarryer contends that the wheel-hoe is much too clumsy an affair to allow of the pursuit of an individual weed4 ,while the operator is busy adjusting his machine and manipulating it about the corners of the garden1 the quack-grass has escaped over the fence or has gone to seed at the other end of the plantation4 ,he devised an expeditious tool for each little work to be performed on the garden1--for hard ground and soft1 for old weeds and young 7one of his implements was denominated 8infant-damnation074 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ig4 ,some of the details of the ,tarryer tools4 8,scores of times during the season10 ,mr4 ,tarryer writes1 8the ten or fifteen minutes one has to enjoy in the flower1 fruit1 and vegetable garden--and that would suffice for the needful weeding with the hoes we are celebrating--would be lost in harnessing horses or adjusting and oiling squeaky wheel-hoes1 even if everybody had them4 ,the #8,american ,garden' is not big enough1 nor my patience long enough1 to give more than an inkling of the unspeakable merits of these weapons of society and civilization4 ,when ,mrs4 ,tarryer was showing twelve or fifteen acres of garden with never a weed to be seen1 she valued her dozen or more of these light implements at five or ten dollars daily2 whether they were in actual use or adorning the front hall1 like a hunter's or angler's furniture1 made no difference4 ,but where are these millennial tools made and sold8 ,nowhere4 ,they are as unknown as the ,bible was in the dark ages1 and we must give a few hints towards manufacturing them4 8,first1 about the handles4 ,the ordinary dealer or workman may say these knobs can be formed on any handles by winding them with leather2 but just fancy a young maiden setting up her hoe meditatively and resting her hands and chin upon an old leather knob to reflect upon something that has been said to her in the garden1 and we shall perceive that a knob by some other name would smell far sweeter4 ,moreover1 trees grow large enough at the butt to furnish all the knobs we want--even for broom-sticks--though sawyers1 turners1 dealers1 and the public seem not to be aware of it2 yet it must be confessed we are so far gone in depravity that there will be trouble in getting those handles4444 8,in a broadcast prayer of this public nature1 absolute specifications would not be polite4 ,black walnut and butternut are fragrant as well as beautiful timber4 ,cherry is stiff1 heavy1 durable1 and1 like maple1 takes a slippery polish4 ,for fine1 light handles1 that the palm will stick to1 butt cuts of poplar or cottonwood cannot be excelled1 yet straight-grained ash will bear more careless usage4 8,the handles of ,mrs4 ,tarryer's hoes are never perfectly straight4 ,all the bayonet class bend downward in use half an inch or more2 all the thrust-hoe handles bend up in a regular curve 7like a fiddle-bow turned over7 two or three inches4 ,unless they are hung right1 these hoes are very awkward things4 ,when perfectly fit for one1 they may not fit another2 that is1 a tall1 keen-sighted person cannot use the hoe that is just fit for a very short one4444 ,curves in the handles throw centers of gravity where they belong4 ,good timber generally warps in a handle about right1 only implement makers and babes in weeding may not know when it is made fast right side up in the hoe4 8,there are plenty of thrust-hoes in market1 such as they are4 ,some have malleable iron sockets and bows--heavier to the buyer and cheaper to the dealer--instead of wrought-iron and steel1 such as is required for true worth40 ,scarifiers4 ,illustration3 #ih4 ,a scarifier4 ,illustration3 #ii4 ,home-made scarifier4 ,illustration3 #ajj4 ,home-made scarifier or scraper4 ,illustration3 #aja4 ,the common scarifier4 ,for many purposes1 tools that scrape or scarify the surface are preferable to hoes that dig up the ground4 ,weeds may be kept down by cutting them off1 as in walks and often in flower-beds1 rather than by rooting them out4 ,figure #ih shows such a tool1 and a home-made implement answering the same purpose is illustrated in ,fig4 #ii4 ,this latter tool is easily made from strong band-iron4 ,another type is suggested in ,fig4 #ajj1 representing a slicing-hoe made by fastening a sheet of good metal to the tines of a broken fork4 ,the kind chiefly in the market is shown in ,fig4 #aja4 ,hand-weeders4 ,illustration3 #ajb4 ,good hand-weeders4 ,illustration3 #ajc4 ,a hand-weeder4 ,illustration3 #ajd4 ,a finger-weeder4 ,illustration3 #aje4 ,a small hand-weeder4 ,for small beds of flowers or vegetables1 hand-weeders of various patterns are essential to easy and efficient work4 ,one of the best patterns1 with long and short handles1 is shown in ,fig4 #ajb4 ,another style1 that may be made at home of hoop-iron1 is drawn in ,fig4 #ajc4 ,a finger-weeder is illustrated in ,fig4 #ajd4 ,in ,fig4 #aje a common form is shown4 ,many patterns of hand-weeders are in the market1 and other forms will suggest themselves to the operator4 ,trowels and their kind4 ,small hand-tools for digging1 as trowels1 dibbers1 and spuds1 may be had of dealers4 ,in buying a trowel it is economy to pay an extra price and secure a steel blade with a strong shank that runs through the entire length of the handle4 ,one of these tools will last several years and may be used in hard ground1 but the cheap trowels are generally hardly worth the buying4 ,a solid wrought-iron trowel all in one piece is also manufactured1 and is the most durable pattern4 ,a steel trowel may be secured to a long handle2 or the blade of a broken trowel may be utilized in the same way 7,fig4 #ajf74 ,a very good trowel may also be made from a discarded blade of a mowing machine 7,fig4 #ajg71 and it answers the purpose of a hand-weeder4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajf4 ,long-handled trowel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajg4 ,improvised trowel4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ajh4 ,weed-spud4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aji4 ,a good weed-spud4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaj4 ,weed-cutter4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaa4 ,a weed-spud that lifts the weed4 ,weed-spuds are shown in ,figs4 #ajh to #aaa4 ,the first is particularly serviceable in cutting docks and other strong weeds from lawns and pastures4 ,it is provided with a brace to allow it to be thrust into the ground with the foot4 ,it is seldom necessary to dig out perennial weeds to the tips of their deep roots1 if the crown is severed a short distance below the surface4 ,rollers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aab4 ,hand-roller4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aac4 ,roller and marker4 ,it is often essential that the land be compacted after it has been spaded or hoed1 and some kind of hand-roller is then useful4 ,very efficient iron rollers are in the market1 but a good one can be made from a hard chestnut or oak log1 as shown in ,fig4 #aab4 7,it should be remembered that when the surface is hard and compact1 water escapes from it rapidly1 and plants may suffer for moisture on arrival of warm weather47 ,the roller is useful in two ways--to compact the under-surface1 in which case the surface should be again loosened as soon as the rolling is done2 and to firm the earth about seeds 7page #ih7 or the roots of newly set plants4 ,markers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aad4 ,roller and marker4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aae4 ,marking-stick4 ,a marker may often be combined with the roller to good advantage1 as in ,fig4 #aac4 ,ropes are secured about the cylinder at proper intervals1 and these mark the rows4 ,knots may be placed in the ropes to indicate the places where plants are to be set or seeds dropped4 ,an extension of the same idea is seen in ,fig4 #aad1 which shows iron or wooden pegs that make holes in which very small plants may be set4 ,an ,l-shaped rod projects at one side to mark the place of the next row4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aaf4 ,tool for spacing plants4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aag4 ,barrow rigged with a marker4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aah4 ,hand sled-marker4 ,in most cases the best and most expeditious method of marking out the garden is by the use of the garden line1 which is secured to a reel 7,fig4 #if71 but various other devices are often useful4 ,for very small beds1 drills or furrows may be made by a simple marking-stick 7,fig4 #aae74 ,a handy marker is shown in ,fig4 #aaf4 ,a marker can be rigged to a wheel-barrow1 as in ,fig4 #aag4 ,a rod is secured underneath the front truss1 and from its end an adjustable trailer1 ,b1 is hung4 ,the wheel of the barrow marks the row1 and the trailer indicates the place of the next row1 thereby keeping the rows parallel4 ,a hand sled-marker is shown in ,fig4 #aah1 and a similar device may be secured to the frame of a sulky cultivator 7,fig4 #aai7 or other wheel tool4 ,a good adjustable sled-marker is outlined in ,fig4 #abj4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aai4 ,trailing sled-marker4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abj4 ,adjustable sled-marker4 ,enriching the land4 ,two problems are involved in the fertilizing of the land3 the direct addition of plant-food1 and the improvement of the physical structure of the soil4 ,the latter office is often the more important4 ,lands that1 on the one hand1 are very hard and solid1 with a tendency to bake1 and1 on the other1 that are loose and leachy1 are very greatly benefited by the addition of organic matter4 ,when this organic matter--as animal and plant remains--decays and becomes thoroughly incorporated with the soil1 it forms what is called humus4 ,the addition of this humus makes the land mellow1 friable1 retentive of moisture1 and promotes the general chemical activities of the soil4 ,it also puts the soil in the best physical condition for the comfort and well-being of the plants4 ,very many of the lands that are said to be exhausted of plant-food still contain enough potash1 phosphoric acid1 and lime1 and other fertilizing elements1 to produce good crops2 but they have been greatly injured in their physical condition by long-continued cropping1 injudicious tillage1 and the withholding of vegetable matter4 ,a part of the marked results secured from the plowing under of clover is due to the incorporation of vegetable matter1 wholly aside from the addition of fertilizing material2 and this is emphatically true of clover because its deep-growing roots penetrate and break up the subsoil4 ,muck and leafmold are often very useful in ameliorating either very hard or very loose lands4 ,excellent humous material may be constantly at hand if the leaves1 garden refuse1 and some of the manure are piled and composted 7p4 #aad74 ,if the pile is turned several times a year1 the material becomes fine and uniform in texture4 ,the various questions associated with the fertilizing of the land are too large to be considered in detail here4 ,persons who desire to familiarize themselves with the subject should consult recent books4 ,it may be said1 however1 that1 as a rule1 most lands contain all the elements of plant-food in sufficient quantities except potash1 phosphoric acid1 and nitrogen4 ,in many cases1 lime is very beneficial to land1 usually because it corrects acidity and has a mechanical effect in pulverizing and flocculating clay and in cementing sands4 ,the chief sources of commercial potash are muriate of potash1 sulfate of potash1 and wood ashes4 ,for general purposes1 the muriate of potash is now recommended1 because it is comparatively cheap and the composition is uniform4 ,a normal application of muriate of potash is #bjj to #cjj pounds to the acre2 but on some lands1 where the greatest results are demanded1 sometimes as much as twice this application may be made4 ,phosphoric acid is got in dissolved ,south ,carolina and ,florida rock and in various bone preparations4 ,these materials are applied at the rate of #bjj to #djj pounds to the acre4 ,commercial nitrogen is secured chiefly in the form of animal refuse1 as blood and tankage1 and in nitrate of soda4 ,it is more likely to be lost by leaching through the land than the mineral substances are1 especially if the land lacks humus4 ,nitrate of soda is very soluble1 and should be applied in small quantities at intervals4 ,nitrogen1 being the element which is mostly conducive to vegetative growth1 tends to delay the season of maturity if applied heavily or late in the season4 ,from #ajj to #cjj pounds of nitrate of soda may be applied to the acre1 but it is ordinarily better to make two or three applications at intervals of three to six weeks4 ,fertilizing materials may be applied either in fall or spring2 but in the case of nitrate of soda it is usually better not to apply in the fall unless the land has plenty of humus to prevent leaching1 or on plants that start very early in the spring4 ,fertilizing material is sown broadcast1 or it may be scattered lightly in furrows underneath the seeds1 and then covered with earth4 ,if sown broadcast1 it may be applied either after the seeds are sown or before4 ,it is usually better to apply it before1 for although the rains carry it down1 nevertheless the upward movement of water during the dry weather of the summer tends to bring it back to the surface4 ,it is important that large lumps of fertilizer1 especially muriate of potash and nitrate of soda1 do not fall near the crowns of the plants2 otherwise the plants may be seriously injured4 ,it is a general principle1 also1 that it is best to use more sparingly of fertilizers than of tillage4 ,the tendency is to make fertilizers do penance for the sins of neglect1 but the results do not often meet one's expectations4 ,if one has only a small garden or a home yard1 it ordinarily will not pay him to buy the chemicals separately1 as suggested above1 but he may purchase a complete fertilizer that is sold under a trademark or brand1 and has a guaranteed analysis4 ,if one is raising plants chiefly for their foliage1 as rhubarb and ornamental bushes1 he should choose a fertilizer comparatively rich in nitrogen2 but if he desires chiefly fruit and flowers1 the mineral elements1 as potash and phosphoric acid1 should usually be high4 ,if one uses the chemicals1 it is not necessary that they be mixed before application2 in fact1 it is usually better not to mix them1 because some plants and some soils need more of one element than of another4 ,just what materials1 and how much1 different soils and plants require must be determined by the grower himself by observation and experiment2 and it is one of the satisfactions of gardening to arrive at discrimination in such matters4 ,muriate of potash costs #dj and upwards per ton1 sulfate about #dh1 dissolved boneblack about #bd1 ground bone about #cj1 kainit about #ac1 and nitrate of soda about #b-a_/d cents per pound4 ,these prices vary1 of course1 with the composition or mechanical condition of materials1 and with the state of the market4 ,the average composition of unleached wood ashes in the market is about as follows3 ,potash1 #e4b per cent2 phosphoric acid1 #a4gj per cent2 lime1 #cd per cent2 magnesia1 #c4dj per cent4 ,the average composition of kainit is #ac4ed per cent potash1 #a4ae per cent lime4 ,the fact that the soil itself is the greatest storehouse of plant-food is shown by the following average of thirty-five analyses of the total content of the first eight inches of surface soils1 per acre3 #ceba pounds of nitrogen1 #ddjj pounds of phosphoric acid1 #ai1hcf pounds of potash4 ,much of this is unavailable1 but good tillage1 green-manuring1 and proper management tend to unlock it and at the same time to save it from waste4 ,illustration3 ,fig #aba4 ,a good cart for collecting leaves and other materials4 ,every careful gardener will take satisfaction in saving leaves and trimmings and stable refuse and making compost of it to supplement the native supplies in the soil4 ,some out-of-the-way corner will be found for a permanent pile1 with room for piling it over from time to time4 ,the pile will be screened by his garden planting4 7,figure #aba suggests a useful cart for collecting such materials47 ,he will also save the power of his land by changing his crops to other parts of the garden1 year by year1 not growing his ,china asters or his snap-dragons or his potatoes or strawberries continuously on the same area2 and thus1 also1 will his garden have a new face every year4 ,lest the reader may get the idea that there is no limit to be placed on the enriching of the soil1 ,i will caution him at the end of my discussion that he may easily make the place so rich that some plants will overgrow and will not come into flowering or fruiting before frost1 and flowers may lack brilliancy4 ,on very rich land1 scarlet sage will grow to great size but will not bloom in the northern season2 sweet peas will run to vine2 gaillardias and some other plants will break down2 tomatoes and melons and peppers may be so late that the fruit will not ripen4 ,only experience and good judgment will safeguard the gardener as to how far he should or should not go4 ,,chapter ,v ,,the ,,handling ,,of ,,the ,,plants ,there is a knack in the successful handling of plants that it is impossible to describe in print4 ,all persons can improve their practice through diligent reading of useful gardening literature1 but no amount of reading and advice will make a good gardener of a person who does not love to dig in a garden or who does not have a care for plants just because they are plants4 ,to grow a plant well1 one must learn its natural habits4 ,some persons learn this as if by intuition1 acquiring the knowledge from close discrimination of the behavior of the plant4 ,often they are themselves unconscious of this knack of knowing what will make the plant to thrive2 but it is not at all necessary to have such an intuitive judgment to enable one to be even more than a fairly good gardener4 ,diligent attention to the plant's habits and requirements1 and a real regard for the plant's welfare1 will make any person a successful plant-grower4 ,some of the things that a person should know about any plant he would grow are these3-- ,whether the plant matures in the first1 second1 third1 or subsequent years2 and when it naturally begins to fail4 ,the time of the year or season in which it normally grows1 blooms1 or fruits2 and whether it can be forced at other seasons4 ,whether it prefers a situation dry or moist or wet1 hot or cool1 sunny or shady4 ,its preferences as to soil1 whether very rich or only moderately rich1 sand or loam1 or peat or clay4 ,its hardiness as to frost1 wind1 drought1 heat4 ,whether it has any special requirements as to germination1 and whether it transplants well4 ,whether it is specially liable to attack by insects or disease4 ,whether it has a special inability to grow two years in succession on the same land4 ,having suited the situation to the plant1 and having prepared the ground well and made a resolution to keep it well1 special attention must be given to such matters as these3-- ,guarding from all insects and diseases2 and also from cats and chickens and dogs2 and likewise from rabbits and mice4 ,protecting from weeds4 ,pruning1 in the case of fruit trees and bushes1 and also of ornamental woody plants on occasion1 and sometimes even of annual herbs4 ,staking and tying1 particularly of sprawly garden flowers4 ,persistent picking of seed pods or dead flowers from flower plants1 in order to conserve the strength of the plant and to prolong its season of bloom4 ,watering in dry weather 7but not sprinkling or dribbling74 ,thorough winter protecting of plants that need it4 ,removing dead leaves1 broken branches1 weak and sickly plants1 and otherwise keeping the place tidy and trim4 ,sowing the seeds4 ,prepare the surface earth well1 to make a good seed-bed4 ,plant when the ground is moist1 if possible1 and preferably just before a rain if the soil is of such character that it will not bake4 ,for shallow-planted seeds1 firm the earth above them by walking over the row or by patting it down with a hoe4 ,special care should be exercised not to sow very small and slow-germinating seeds1 as celery1 carrot1 onion1 in poorly prepared soil or in ground that bakes4 ,with such seeds it is well to sow seeds of radish or turnip1 for these germinate quickly and break the crust1 and also mark the row so that tillage may be begun before the regular-crop seeds are up4 ,land may be prevented from baking over the seeds by scattering a very thin layer of fine litter1 as chaff1 or of sifted moss or mold1 over the row4 ,a board is sometimes laid on the row to retain the moisture1 but it must be lifted gradually just as soon as the plants begin to break the ground1 or the plants will be greatly injured4 ,whenever practicable1 seed-beds of celery and other slow-germinating seeds should be shaded4 ,if the beds are watered1 be careful that the soil is not packed by the force of the water or baked by the sun4 ,in thickly sown seed-beds1 thin or transplant the plants as soon as they have made their first true leaves4 ,for most home-grounds1 seeds may be sown by hand1 but for large areas of one crop1 one of the many kinds of seed-sowers may be used4 ,the particular methods of sowing seeds are usually specified in the seed catalogues1 if other than ordinary treatment is required4 ,the sled-markers 7already described1 p4 #ajh7 open a furrow of sufficient depth for the planting of most seeds4 ,if marker furrows are not available1 a furrow may be opened with a hoe for such deep-planted seeds as peas and sweet peas1 or by a trowel or end of a rakestale for smaller seeds4 ,in narrow beds or boxes1 a stick or ruler 7,fig4 #aae7 may be used for opening creases to receive the seeds4 ,the depth at which seeds are to be planted varies with the kind1 the soil and its preparation1 the season1 and whether they are planted in the open or in the house4 ,in boxes and under glass1 it is a good rule that the seed be sown at a depth equal to twice its own diameter1 but deeper sowing is usually necessary out of doors1 particularly in hot and dry weather4 ,strong and hardy seeds1 as peas1 sweet peas1 large fruit-tree seeds1 may be planted three to six inches deep4 ,tender seeds1 that are injured by cold and wet1 may be planted after the ground is settled and warm at a greater depth than before that season4 ,as a rule1 nothing is gained by sowing tender seeds before the weather is thoroughly settled and the ground warm4 ,propagating by cuttings4 ,many common plants are propagated by cuttings rather than by seeds1 particularly when it is desired to increase a particular variety4 ,cuttings are parts of plants inserted in soil or water with the intention that they shall grow and make new plants4 ,they are of various kinds4 ,they may be classified1 with reference to the age of the wood or tissue1 into two classes2 viz4 those made from perfectly hard or dormant wood 7taken from the winter twigs of trees and bushes71 and those made from more or less immature or growing wood4 ,they may be classified again in respect to the part of the plants from which they are taken1 as root-cuttings1 tuber-cuttings 7as the ordinary 8seed0 planted for potatoes71 stem-cuttings1 and leaf-cuttings4 ,dormant stem-cuttings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abb4 ,the planting of the dormant-wood cuttings4 ,dormant-wood cuttings are used for grapes 7,fig4 #abb71 currants1 gooseberries1 willows1 poplars1 and many other kinds of soft-wooded trees and shrubs4 ,such cuttings are ordinarily taken in fall or winter1 but cut into the proper lengths and then buried in sand or moss where they do not freeze1 in order that the lower end may heal over or callous4 ,in the spring these cuttings are set in the ground1 preferably in a rather sandy and well-drained place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abc4 ,carnation cutting4 ,usually1 hardwood cuttings are made with two to four joints or buds1 and when they are planted1 only the upper bud projects above the ground4 ,they may be planted erect1 as ,fig4 #abb shows1 or somewhat slanting4 ,in order that the cutting may reach down to moist earth1 it is desirable that it should not be less than #f in4 long2 and it is sometimes better if it is #h to #ab in4 ,if the wood is short-jointed1 there may be several buds on a cutting of this length2 and in order to prevent too many shoots from arising from these buds the lowermost buds are often cut out4 ,roots will start as readily if the lower buds are removed1 since the buds grow into shoots and not into roots4 ,cuttings of currants1 grapes1 gooseberries1 and the like may be set in rows that are far enough apart to admit of easy tillage either with horse or hand tools1 and the cuttings may be placed #c to #h in4 apart in the row4 ,the ,english varieties of gooseberries1 considerably grown in this country1 do not propagate readily from cuttings4 ,after the cuttings have grown one season1 the plants are usually transplanted and given more room for the second year's growth1 after which time they are ready to be set in permanent plantations4 ,in some cases1 the plants are set at the end of the first year2 but two-year plants are stronger and usually preferable4 ,cuttings of roots4 ,root-cuttings are used for blackberries1 raspberries1 and a few other things4 ,they are ordinarily made of roots from the size of a lead pencil to one's little finger1 and are cut in lengths from #c to #e in4 long4 ,the cuttings are stored the same as stem-cuttings and allowed to callous4 ,in the spring they are planted in a horizontal or nearly horizontal position in moist sandy soil1 being entirely covered to a depth of #a or #b in4 ,green cuttings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abd4 ,verbena cutting4 ,softwood or greenwood cuttings are usually made of wood that is mature enough to break when it is bent sharply4 ,when the wood is so soft that it will bend and not break1 it is too immature1 in the majority of plants1 for the making of good cuttings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abe4 ,leaf-cutting4 ,one to two joints is the proper length of a greenwood cutting4 ,if of two joints1 the lower leaves should be cut off and the upper leaves cut in two so that they do not present their entire surface to the air and thereby evaporate the plant juices too rapidly4 ,if the cutting is of only one joint1 the lower end is usually cut just above a joint4 ,in either case1 the cuttings are usually inserted in sand or well-washed gravel1 nearly or quite up to the leaves4 ,keep the bed uniformly moist throughout its depth1 but avoid any soil which holds so much moisture that it becomes muddy and sour4 ,these cuttings should be shaded until they begin to emit their roots4 ,coleus1 geraniums1 fuchsias1 carnations1 and nearly all the common greenhouse and house plants1 are propagated by these cuttings or slips 7,figs4 #abc1 #abd74 ,cuttings of leaves4 ,leaf-cuttings are often used for the fancy-leaved begonias1 gloxinias1 and a few other plants4 ,the young plant usually arises most readily from the leaf-stalk or petiole4 ,the leaf1 therefore1 is inserted into the ground much as a green cutting is4 ,begonia leaves will throw out young plants from the main ribs when these veins or ribs are cut4 ,therefore1 well-grown and firm begonia leaves are sometimes laid flat on the sand and the main veins cut2 then the leaf is weighted down with pebbles or pegs so that these cut surfaces come into intimate contact with the soil beneath4 ,the usual way1 however1 is to cut a triangular piece of the leaf 7,fig4 #abe7 and insert the tip in sand4 ,so long as the cutting is alive1 do not be discouraged1 even if it do not start4 ,,viii4 ,a well-planted entrance4 ,common trees and bushes1 with ,boston ivy on the post1 and ,berberis ,thunbergii in front4 ,,viii4 ,a well-planted entrance4 ,common trees and bushes1 with ,boston ivy on the post1 and ,berberis ,thunbergii in front4 ,general treatment of cuttings4 ,in the growing of all greenwood and leaf-cuttings1 it is well to remember that they should have a gentle bottom heat2 the soil should be such that it will hold moisture and yet not remain wet2 the air about the tops should not become close and stagnant1 else the plants will damp off2 and the tops should be shaded for a time4 ,in order to control all the conditions1 such cuttings are grown under cover1 as in a greenhouse1 coldframe1 or a box in the residence window4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abf4 ,cuttings inserted in a double pot4 ,an excellent method of starting cuttings in the living room is to make a double pot1 as shown in ,fig4 #abf4 ,inside a #f-;in4 pot set a #d-;in4 pot4 ,fill the bottom1 a1 with gravel or bits of brick1 for drainage4 ,plug the hole in the inside pot4 ,fill the spaces between1 c1 with earth1 and in this set the cuttings4 ,water may be poured into the inner pot1 b1 to supply the moisture4 ,transplanting young seedlings4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abg4 ,to check evaporation at transplanting4 ,in the transplanting of cabbages1 tomatoes1 flowers1 and all plants recently started from seeds1 it is important that the ground be thoroughly fined and compacted4 ,plants usually live better if transplanted into ground that has been freshly turned4 ,if possible1 transplant in cloudy or rainy weather1 particularly if late in the season4 ,firm the earth snugly about the roots with the hands or feet1 in order to bring up the soil moisture2 but it is generally best to rake the surface in order to restablish the earth-mulch1 unless the plants are so small that their roots cannot reach through the mulch 7p4 #ih74 ,if the plants are taken from pots1 water the pots some time in advance1 and the ball of earth will fall out when the pot is inverted and tapped lightly4 ,in taking up plants from the ground1 it is advisable1 also1 to water them well some time before removing2 the earth may then be held on the roots4 ,see that the watering is done far enough in advance to allow the water to settle away and distribute itself2 the earth should not be muddy when the plants are removed4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abh4 ,plants sheared and not sheared when transplanted4 ,in order to reduce the evaporation from the plant1 shingles may be stuck into the ground to shade the plant2 or a screen may be improvised with pieces of paper 7,fig4 #abb71 tin cans1 inverted flower-pots1 coverings of brush1 or other means4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #abi4 ,where to shear the tops of young plants4 ,it is nearly always advisable to remove some of the foliage1 particularly if the plant has several leaves and if it has not been grown in a pot1 and also if the transplanting is done in warm weather4 ,figure #abh shows a good treatment for transplanted plants4 ,with the foliage all left on1 the plants are likely to behave as in the upper row2 but with most of it cut off1 as in the lower row1 there is little wilting1 and new leaves soon start4 ,figure #abi also shows what part of the leaves may be cut off on transplanting4 ,if the ground is freshly turned and the transplanting is well done1 it rarely will be necessary to water the plants2 but if watering is necessary1 it should be done at nightfall1 and the surface should be loosened the next morning or as soon as it becomes dry4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acj4 ,trowel dibber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aca4 ,the dibber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acb4 ,home-made padded dibber4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acc4 ,dibber and crow-bar combined4 ,in the transplanting of young plants1 some kind of a dibber should be used to make the holes4 ,dibbers make holes without removing any of the earth4 ,a good form of dibber is shown in ,fig4 #acj1 which is like a flat or plane trowel4 ,many persons prefer a cylindrical and conical dibber1 like that shown in ,fig4 #aca4 ,for hard soils and larger plants1 a strong dibber may be made from a limb that has a right-angled branch to serve as a handle4 ,this handle may be softened by slipping a piece of rubber hose on it 7,fig4 #acb74 ,a long iron dibber1 which may also be used as a crow-bar1 is shown in ,fig4 #acc4 ,in transplanting with the dibber1 a hole is first made by a thrust of the tool1 and the earth is then pressed against the root by means of the foot1 hand1 or the dibber itself 7as in ,fig4 #aca74 ,the hole is not filled by putting in dirt at the top4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acd4 ,strawberry planter4 ,for large plants1 a broader dibber may be used4 ,an implement like that shown in ,fig4 #acd is useful for setting strawberries and other plants with large roots4 ,it is made of two-inch plank1 with a block on top to act as foot-rest and to prevent the blade from going too deep4 ,in order to provide space for the foot and easily to direct the thrust1 the handle may be placed at one side of the middle4 ,for plunging pots1 a dibber like that shown in ,fig4 #ace is useful1 particularly when the soil is so hard that a long-pointed tool is necessary4 ,the bottom of the hole may be filled with earth before the pot is inserted2 but it is often advisable to leave the vacant space below 7as in b7 to provide drainage1 to keep the plant from rooting1 and to prevent earth-worms from entering the hole in the bottom of the pot4 ,for smaller pots1 the tool may be inserted a less depth 7as at c74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ace4 ,the plunging of pots4 ,transplanting established plants and trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acf4 ,setting large tub-plants in the lawn4 ,in setting potted plants out of doors1 it is nearly always advisable to plunge them1--that is to set the pots into the earth1--unless the place is very wet4 ,the pots are then watered by the rainfall1 and demand little care4 ,if the plants are to be returned to the house in the fall1 they should not be allowed to root through the hole in the pot1 and the rooting may be prevented by turning the pot around every few days4 ,large decorative plants may be made to look as if growing naturally in the lawn by sinking the pot or box just below the surface and rolling the sod over it1 as suggested in ,fig4 #acf4 ,a space around and below the tub may be provided to insure drainage4 ,tub-plants4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #acg4 ,plant-box with a movable side4 ,for the shifting of very large tub-plants1 a box or tub with movable sides1 as in ,fig4 #acg1 is handy and efficient4 ,the plant-box recommended to parties who grew plants for exhibition at the ,world's ,fair is shown in ,fig4 #ach4 ,it is made of strong boards or planks4 ,at ,a is shown the inside of one of two opposite sections or sides1 four feet wide at top1 three feet wide at bottom1 and three feet high4 ,the cleats are two-by-four scantlings1 through which holes are bored to admit the bolts with which the box is to be held together4 ,b is an outside view of one of the alternating sections1 three feet four inches wide at top1 two feet four inches at bottom1 and three feet deep4 ,a one-by-six strip is nailed through the center to give strength4 ,c is an end view of ,a1 showing the bolts and also a two-by-four cleat to which the bottom is to be nailed4 ,this box was used mostly for transporting large growing stock to the exposition1 the stock having been dug from the open and the box secured around the ball of earth4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ach4 ,box for transporting large transplanted stock4 ,when to transplant4 ,in general1 it is best to set hardy plants in the fall1 particularly if the ground is fairly dry and the exposure is not too bleak4 ,to this class belong most of the fruit trees and ornamental trees and shrubs2 also hardy herbs1 as columbines1 peonies1 lilies1 bleeding-hearts1 and the like4 ,they should be planted as soon as they are thoroughly mature1 so that the leaves begin to fall naturally4 ,if any leaves remain on the tree or bush at planting time1 strip them off1 unless the plant is an evergreen4 ,it is generally best not to cut back fall-planted trees to the full extent desired1 but to shorten them three-fourths of the required amount in the fall1 and take off the remaining fourth in the spring1 so that no dead or dry tips are left on the plant4 ,evergreens1 as pines and spruces1 are not headed-in much1 and usually not at all4 ,all tender and very small plants should be set in the spring1 in which case very early planting is desirable2 and spring planting is always to be advised when the ground is not thoroughly drained and well prepared4 ,depth to transplant4 ,in well-compacted land1 trees and shrubs should be set at about the same depth as they stood in the nursery1 but if the land has been deeply trenched or if it is loose from other causes1 the plants should be set deeper1 because the earth will probably settle4 ,the hole should be filled with fine surface earth4 ,it is generally not advisable to place manure in the hole1 but if it is used1 it should be of small amount and very thoroughly mixed with the earth1 else it will cause the soil to dry out4 ,in lawns and other places where surface tillage cannot be given1 a light mulch of litter or manure may be placed about the plants2 but the earth-mulch 7page #ih71 when it can be secured1 is much the best conserver of moisture4 ,making the rows straight4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aci4 ,a planting board4 ,in order to set trees in rows1 it is necessary to use a garden line 7,fig4 #if71 or to mark out the ground with some of the devices already described 7,figs4 #aac-abj72 or in large areas1 the place may be staked out4 ,in planting orchards1 the area is laid out 7preferably by a surveyor7 with two or more rows of stakes so placed that a man may sight from one fixed point to another4 ,two or three men work to best advantage in such planting4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adj4 ,device for placing the tree4 ,there are various devices for locating the place of the stake after the stake has been removed and the hole dug1 in case the area is not regularly staked out in such a way that sighting across the area may be employed4 ,one of the simplest is shown in ,fig4 #aci4 ,it is a narrow and thin board with a notch in the center and a peg in either end1 one of the pegs being stationary4 ,the implement is so placed that the notch meets the stake1 then one end of it is thrown out of the way until the hole is dug4 ,when the implement is brought again to its original position1 the notch mark's the place of the stake and the tree4 ,figure #adj is a device with a lid1 in the end of which is a notch to mark the place of the stake4 ,this lid is thrown back1 as shown by the dotted lines1 when the hole is being dug4 ,figure #ada shows a method of bringing trees in row by measuring from a line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ada4 ,lining a tree from a stake4 ,cutting-back2 filling4 ,in the planting of any tree or bush1 the roots should be cut back beyond all breaks and serious bruises1 and fine earth should be thoroughly filled in and firmed about them1 as in ,fig4 #adb4 ,no implement is so good as the fingers for working the soil about the roots4 ,if the tree has many roots1 work it up and down slightly several times during the filling of the hole1 to settle the earth in place4 ,when the earth is thrown in carelessly1 the roots are jammed together1 and often an empty place is left beneath the crown1 as in ,fig4 #adc1 which causes the roots to dry out4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adb3 ,proper planting of a tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adc3 ,careless planting of a tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #add4 ,pruned young tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ade4 ,pruned young tree4 ,the marks on the tops of these trees in ,figs4 #adb and #adc show where the branches may be cut4 ,see also ,fig4 #aeb4 ,figures #add and #ade show the tops of trees after pruning4 ,strong branchy trees1 as apples1 pears1 and ornamental trees1 are usually headed back in this way1 upon planting4 ,if the tree has one straight leader and many or several slender branches 7,fig4 #adf71 it is usually pruned1 as in ,fig4 #adg1 each branch being cut back to one or two buds4 ,if there are no branches1 or very few of them1--in which case there will be good buds upon the main stem1--the leader may be cut back a third or half its length1 to a mere whip4 ,ornamental bushes with long tops are usually cut back a third or a half when set1 as shown in ,fig4 #de4 ,always leave a little of the small bud-making growth4 ,the practice of cutting back shade trees to mere long clubs1 or poles1 with no small twigs1 is to be discouraged4 ,the tree in such case is obliged to force out adventitious buds from the old wood1 and it may not have vigor enough to do this2 and the process may be so long delayed as to allow the tree to be overtaken by drought before it gets a start4 ,removing very large trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adf3 ,peach tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adg3 ,peach tree pruned for planting4 ,very large trees can often be moved with safety4 ,it is essential that the transplanting be done when the trees are perfectly dormant1--winter being preferable1--that a large mass of earth and roots be taken with the tree1 and that the top be vigorously cut back4 ,large trees are often moved in winter on a stone-boat1 by securing a large ball of earth frozen about the roots4 ,this frozen ball is secured by digging about the tree for several days in succession1 so that the freezing progresses with the excavation4 ,a good device for moving such trees is shown in ,fig4 #adh4 ,the trunk of the tree is securely wrapped with burlaps or other soft material1 and a ring or chain is then secured about it4 ,a long pole1 b1 is run over the truck of a wagon and the end of it is secured to the chain or ring upon the tree4 ,this pole is a lever for raising the tree out of the ground4 ,a team is hitched at a1 and a man holds the pole b4 ,other and more elaborate devices are in use1 but this explains the idea and is therefore sufficient for the present purpose2 for when a person desires to remove a very large tree he should secure the services of an expert4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adh3 ,moving a large tree4 ,the following more explicit directions for moving large trees are by ,edward ,hicks1 who has had much experience in the business1 and who made this report to the press a few years ago3 8,in moving large trees1 say those ten to twelve inches in diameter and twenty-five to thirty feet high1 it is well to prepare them by trimming and cutting or sawing off the roots at a proper distance from the trunks1 say six to eight feet1 in ,june4 ,the cut roots heal over and send out fibrous roots1 which should not be injured more than is necessary in moving the trees next fall or spring4 ,young1 thrifty maples and elms1 originally from the nursery1 do not need such preparation nearly as much as other and older trees4 ,in moving a tree1 we begin by digging a wide trench six to eight feet from it1 leaving all possible roots fast to it4 ,by digging under the tree in the wide trench1 and working the soil out of the roots by means of round or dull-pointed sticks1 the soil falls into the cavity made under the tree4 ,three or four men in as many hours could get so much of the soil away from the roots that it would be safe to attach a rope and tackle to the upper part of the trunk and to some adjoining post or tree for the purpose of pulling the tree over4 ,a good quantity of bagging must be put around the tree under the rope to prevent injury1 and care should be taken that the pulling of the rope does not split off or break a limb4 ,a team is hitched to the end of the draft rope1 and slowly driven in the proper direction to pull the tree over4 ,if the tree does not readily tip over1 dig under and cut off any fast root4 ,while it is tipped over1 work out more of the soil with the sticks4 ,now pass a large rope1 double1 around a few large roots close to the tree1 leaving the ends of the rope turned up by the trunk to be used in lifting the tree at the proper time4 ,tip the tree in the opposite direction and put another large rope around the large roots close to the trunk2 remove more soil and see that no roots are fast to the ground4 ,four guy-ropes attached to the upper parts of the tree1 as shown in the cut 7,fig4 #adi71 should be put on properly and used to prevent the tree from tipping over too far as well as to keep it upright4 ,a good deal of the soil can be put back in the hole without covering the roots to get it out of the way of the machine4 ,the latter can now be placed about the tree by removing the front part1 fastened by four bolts1 placing the frame with the hind wheels around the tree and replacing the front parts4 ,two timbers1 three-by-nine inches1 and twenty feet long1 are now placed on the ground under the hind wheels1 and in front of them1 parallel to each other for the purpose of keeping the hind wheels up out of the big hole when drawing the tree away2 and they are also used while backing the hind wheels across the new hole in which the tree is to be planted4 ,the machine 7,figs4 #adi1 #aej7 consists of a hind axle twelve feet long1 and broad-tired wheels4 ,the frame is made of spruce three-by-eight inches and twenty feet long4 ,the braces are three-by-five inches and ten feet long1 and upright three-by-nine inches and three feet high2 these are bolted to the hind axle and main frame4 ,the front axle has a set of blocks bolted together and of sufficient height to support the front end of the frame4 ,into the top timbers1 three-by-six inches1 hollows are cut at the proper distances to receive the ends of two locust rollers4 ,a windlass or winch is put at each end of the frame1 by which trees can easily and steadily be lifted and lowered1 the large double ropes passing over the rollers to the windlasses4 ,a locust boom is put across the machine under the frame and above the braces2 iron pins hold it in place4 ,the side guy-ropes are made fast to the ends of this boom4 ,the other guy-ropes are made fast to the front and rear parts of the machine4 ,four rope loops are made fast inside of the frame1 and are so placed that by passing a rope around the trunk of the tree and through the loops two or three times1 a rope ring is made around the tree that will keep the trunk in the middle of the frame and not allow it to hit either the edges or the rollers--a very necessary safeguard4 ,as the tree is slowly lifted by the windlasses1 the guy-ropes are loosened1 as needed4 ,the tree will pass obstructions1 such as trees by the roadside1 but in doing so it is better to lean the tree backward4 ,when the tree has arrived at its new place1 the two timbers are placed along the opposite edges of the hole so that the hind wheels can be backed over it4 ,the tree is then lowered to the proper depth1 and made plumb by the guy-ropes1 and good1 mellow soil is thrown in and packed well into all the cavities under the roots4 ,when the hole is half filled1 several barrels of water should be poured in2 this will wash the soil into the cavities under the center of the tree much better4 ,when the water has settled away1 fill in and pack the soil till the hole is little more than full4 ,leave a depression1 so that all the rain that may fall will be retained4 ,the tree should now be judiciously trimmed and the machine removed4 ,five men can take up1 move1 and plant a tree in a day1 if the distance is short and the digging not too hard4 ,the tree should be properly wired to stakes to prevent the wind from blowing it over4 ,the front part of the machine is a part of our platform spring market-wagon1 while the hind wheels are from a wood-axle wagon4 ,a tree ten inches in diameter1 with some dirt adhering to its roots1 will weigh a ton or more40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #adi4 ,the tree ready to lift4 ,illustration3 #aej4 ,the tree ready to move4 ,winter protection of plants4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aea4 ,trees heeled-in for winter4 ,if the ground is not ready for planting in the fall1 or if it is desired for any reason to delay until spring1 the trees or bushes may be heeled-in1 as illustrated in ,fig4 #aea4 ,the roots are laid in a furrow or trench1 and are covered with well-firmed earth4 ,straw or manure may be thrown over the earth still further to protect the roots1 but if it is thrown over the tops1 mice may be attracted by it and the trees be girdled4 ,tender trees or bushes may be lightly covered to the tips with earth4 ,plants should be heeled-in only in loose1 warm1 loamy or sandy ground and in a well-drained place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeb4 ,tree earthed up for winter4 ,fall-planted trees should generally be mounded up1 sometimes even as high as shown in ,fig4 #aeb4 ,this hilling holds the plant in position1 carries off the water1 prevents too deep freezing1 and holds the earth from heaving4 ,the mound is taken away in the spring4 ,it is sometimes advisable to mound-up established trees in the fall1 but on well-drained land the practice is usually not necessary4 ,in hilling trees1 pains should be taken not to leave deep holes1 from which the earth was dug1 close to the tree1 for water collects in them4 ,roses and many other bushes may be mounded in the fall with profit4 ,it is always advisable to mulch plants that are set in the fall4 ,any loose and dry material--as straw1 manure1 leaves1 leafmold1 litter from yards and stables1 pine boughs--may be used for this purpose4 ,very strong or compact manures1 as those in which there is little straw or litter1 should be avoided4 ,the ground may be covered to a depth of five or six inches1 or even a foot or more if the material is loose4 ,avoid throwing strong manure directly on the crown of the plants1 especially of herbs1 for the materials that leach from the manure sometimes injure the crown buds and the roots4 ,this protection may also be given to established plants1 particularly to those which1 like roses and herbaceous plants1 are expected to give a profusion of bloom the following year4 ,this mulch affords not only winter protection1 but is an efficient means of fertilizing the land4 ,a large part of the plant-food materials have leached out of the mulch by spring1 and have become incorporated in the soil1 where the plant makes ready use of them4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aec3 ,covering plants in a box4 ,mulches also serve a most useful purpose in preventing the ground from packing and baking by the weight of snows and rains1 and the cementing action of too much water in the surface soil4 ,in the spring1 the coarser parts of the mulch may be removed1 and the finer parts spaded or hoed into the ground4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aed3 ,covering plants in a barrel4 ,tender bushes and small trees may be wrapped with straw1 hay1 burlaps1 or pieces of matting or carpet4 ,even rather large trees1 as bearing peach trees1 are often baled up in this way1 or sometimes with corn fodder1 although the results in the protection of fruit-buds are not often very satisfactory4 ,it is important that no grain is left in the baling material1 else mice may be attracted to it4 7,the danger of gnawing by mice that nest in winter coverings is always to be anticipated47 ,it should be known1 too1 that the object in tying up or baling plants is not so much to protect from direct cold as to mitigate the effects of alternate freezing and thawing1 and to protect from drying winds4 ,plants may be wrapped so thick and tight as to injure them4 ,the labor of protecting large plants is often great and the results uncertain1 and in most cases it is a question whether more satisfaction could not be attained by growing only hardy trees and shrubs4 ,the objection to covering tender woody plants cannot be urged with equal force against tender herbs or very low bushes1 for these are protected with ease4 ,even the ordinary mulch may afford sufficient protection2 and if the tops kill back1 the plant quickly renews itself from near the base1 and in many plants--as in most hybrid perpetual roses--the best bloom is on these new growths of the season4 ,old boxes or barrels may be used to protect tender low plants 7,figs4 #aec1 #aed74 ,the box is filled with leaves or dry straw and either left open on top or covered with boards1 boughs1 or even with burlaps 7,fig4 #aed74 ,connoisseurs of tender roses and other plants sometimes go to the pains of erecting a collapsible shed over the bush1 and filling with leaves or straw4 ,whether this is worth while depends wholly on the degree of satisfaction that one derives from the growing of choice plants 7see ,roses1 in ,chap4 ,,viii74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aee4 ,laying down of trellis-grown blackberries4 ,the tops of plants may be laid down for the winter4 ,figure #aee shows a method of laying down blackberries1 as practiced in the ,hudson ,river valley4 ,the plants were tied to a trellis1 as the method is in that country1 two wires 7a1 b7 having been run on either side of the row4 ,the posts are hinged on a pivot to a short post 7c71 and are held in position by a brace 7d74 ,the entire trellis is then laid down on the approach of winter1 as shown in the illustration4 ,the blackberry tops are so strong that they hold the wires up from the ground1 even when the trellis is laid down4 ,to hold the wires close to the earth1 stakes are thrust over them in a slanting position1 as shown at n n4 ,the snow that drifts through the plants ordinarily affords sufficient protection for plants which are as hardy as grapes and berries4 ,in fact1 the species may be uninjured even without cover1 since1 in their prostrate position1 they escape the cold and drying winds4 ,in severe climates1 or in the case of tender plants1 the tops should be covered with straw1 boughs1 or litter1 as recommended for regular mulch-covers4 ,sometimes a ,v-shaped trough made from two boards is placed over the stems of long or vine-like plants that have been laid down4 ,all plants with slender or more or less pliant stems can be laid down with ease4 ,with such protection1 figs can be grown in the northern states4 ,peach and other fruit trees may be so trained as to be tipped over and covered4 ,laid-down plants are often injured if the covering remains too late in the spring4 ,the ground warms up early1 and may start the buds on parts of the buried plants1 and these tender buds may be broken when the plants are raised1 or injured by sun1 wind1 or frost4 ,the plants should be raised while the wood and buds are still hard and dormant4 ,pruning4 ,pruning is necessary to keep plants in shape1 to make them more floriferous and fruitful1 and to hold them within bounds4 ,even annual plants often may be pruned to advantage4 ,this is true of tomatoes1 from which the superfluous or crowding shoots may be removed1 especially if the land is so rich that they grow very luxuriantly2 sometimes they are trained to a single stem and most of the side shoots are taken away as they appear4 ,if plants of marigold1 gaillardia1 or other strong and spreading growers are held by stakes or wire-holders 7a good practice71 it may be advisable to remove the weak and sprawling shoots4 ,balsams give better results when side shoots are taken off4 ,the removing of the old flowers1 which is to be advised with flower-garden plants 7page #aaf71 is also a species of pruning4 ,distinction should be made between pruning and shearing4 ,plants are sheared into given shapes4 ,this may be necessary in bedding-plants1 and occasionally when a formal effect is desired in shrubs and trees2 but the best taste is displayed1 in the vast majority of cases1 in allowing the plants to assume their natural habits1 merely keeping them shapely1 cutting out old or dead wood1 and1 in some cases1 preventing such crowding of shoots as will reduce the size of the bloom4 ,the common practice of shearing shrubbery is very much to be reprehended2 this subject is discussed from another point of view on page #bd4 ,the pruner should know the flower-bearing habit of the plant that he prunes1--whether the bloom is on the shoots of last season or on the new wood of the present season1 and whether the flower-buds of spring-blooming plants are separate from the leaf-buds4 ,a very little careful observation will determine these points for any plant4 7#a7 ,the spring-blooming woody plants usually produce their flowers from buds perfected the fall before and remaining dormant over winter4 ,this is true of most fruit-trees1 and such shrubs as lilac1 forsythia1 tree peony1 wistaria1 some spireas and viburnums1 weigela1 deutzia4 ,cutting back the shoots of these plants early in spring or late in fall1 therefore1 removes the bloom4 ,the proper time to prune such plants 7unless one intends to reduce or thin the bloom7 is just after the flowering season4 7#b7 ,the summer-blooming woody plants usually produce their flowers on shoots that grow early in the same season4 ,this is true of grapes1 quince1 hybrid perpetual roses1 shrubby hibiscus1 crape myrtle1 mock orange1 hydrangea 7paniculata71 and others4 ,pruning in winter or early spring to secure strong new shoots is1 therefore1 the proper procedure in these cases4 ,remarks on pruning may be found under the discussion of roses and other plants in subsequent chapters1 when the plants need any special or peculiar attention4 ,fruit-trees and shade-trees are usually pruned in winter1 preferably late in winter1 or in very early spring4 ,however1 there is usually no objection to moderate pruning at any time of the year2 and moderate pruning every year1 rather than violent pruning in occasional years1 is to be advised4 ,it is an old idea that summer pruning tends to favor the production of fruit-buds and therefore to make for fruitfulness2 there is undoubtedly truth in this1 but it must be remembered that fruitfulness is not the result of one treatment or condition1 but of all the conditions under which the plant lives4 ,all limbs should be removed close to the branch or trunk from which they arise1 and the surface of the wound should be practically parallel with such branch or trunk1 rather than to be cut back to stubs4 ,the stubs do not heal readily4 ,all wounds much above an inch across may be protected by a coat of good linseed-oil paint2 but smaller wounds1 if the tree is vigorous1 usually require no protection4 ,the object of the paint is to protect the wound from cracking and decay until the healing tissue covers it4 ,superfluous and interfering branches should be removed from fruit-trees1 so that the top will be fairly open to sun and to the pickers4 ,well-pruned trees allow of an even distribution and uniform development of the fruit4 ,watersprouts and suckers should be removed as soon as they are discovered4 ,how open the top may be1 will depend on the climate4 ,in the ,west1 open trees suffer from sun-scald4 ,the fruit-bearing habit of the fruit-tree must be considered in the pruning4 ,the pruner should be able to distinguish fruit-buds from leaf-buds in such species as cherries1 plums1 apricot1 peach1 pear1 apple1 and so prune as to spare these buds or to thin them understandingly4 ,the fruit-buds are distinguished by their position on the tree and by their size and shape4 ,they may be on distinct 8spurs0 or short branches1 in all the above fruits2 or1 as in the peach1 they may be chiefly lateral on the new shoots 7in the peach1 the fruit-buds are usually two at a node and with a leaf-bud between them71 or1 as sometimes in apples and pears1 they may be at the ends of last year's growths4 ,fruit-buds are usually thicker1 or 8fatter10 than leaf-buds1 and often fuzzy4 ,heading-back the tree of course tends to concentrate the fruit-buds and to keep them nearer the center of the tree-top2 but heading-back must be combined with intelligent saving and thinning of the interior shoots4 ,heading-back of pears and peaches and plums is usually a very desirable practice4 ,tree surgery and protection4 ,aside from the regular pruning to develop the tree into its best form to enable it to do its best work1 there are wounds and malformations to be treated4 ,recently1 the treating of injured and decayed trees has received much attention1 and 8tree doctors0 and 8tree surgeons0 have engaged in the business4 ,if there are quacks among these people1 there are also competent and reliable men who are doing useful service in saving and prolonging the life of trees2 one should choose a tree doctor with the same care that he would choose any other doctor4 ,the liability of injury to street trees in the modern city and the increasing regard for trees1 render the services of good experts increasingly necessary4 ,street trees are injured by many causes3 as1 starving because of poor soil and lack of water under pavements2 smoke and dust2 leakage from gas mains and from electric installation2 gnawing by horses2 butchering by persons stringing wires2 carelessness of contractors and builders2 wind and ice storms2 overcrowding2 and the blundering work of persons who think that they know how to prune4 ,well-enforced municipal regulations should be able to control most of these troubles4 ,tree guards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aef4 ,lath tree guard4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aeg4 ,wire-and-post tree guard ,along roadsides and other exposed places it is often necessary to protect newly set trees from horses1 boys1 and vehicles4 ,there are various kinds of tree guards for this purpose4 ,the best types are those that are more or less open1 so as to allow the free passage of air and which are so far removed from the body of the tree that its trunk may expand without difficulty4 ,if the guards are very tight1 they may shade the trunk so much that the tree may suffer when the guard is removed1 and they prevent the discovery of insects and injuries4 ,it is important that the guard does not fill with litter in which insects may harbor4 ,as soon as the tree is old enough to escape injury1 the guards should be removed4 ,a very good guard1 made of laths held together with three strips of band-iron1 and secured to iron posts1 is shown in ,fig4 #aef4 ,figure #aeg4 shows a guard made by winding fencing wire upon three posts or stakes4 ,when there is likely to be danger from too great shading of the trunk1 this latter form of guard is one of the best4 ,there are good forms of tree guards on the market4 ,of course hitching-posts should be provided1 wherever horses are to stand1 to remove the temptation of hitching to trees4 ,figure #aeh1 however1 shows a very good device when a hitching post is not wanted4 ,a strong stick1 four or five feet long1 is secured to the tree by a staple and at the lower end of the stick is a short chain with a snap in the end4 ,the snap is secured to the bridle1 and the horse is not able to reach the tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig #aeh4 ,how a horse may be hitched to a tree4 ,mice and rabbits4 ,trees and bushes are often seriously injured by the gnawing of mice and rabbits4 ,the best preventive is not to have the vermin4 ,if there are no places in which rabbits and mice can burrow and breed1 there will be little difficulty4 ,at the approach of winter1 if mice are feared1 the dry litter should be removed from about the trees1 or it should be packed down very firm1 so that the mice cannot nest in it4 ,if the rodents are very abundant1 it may be advisable to wrap fine wire netting about the base of the tree4 ,a boy who is fond of trapping or hunting will ordinarily solve the rabbit difficulty4 ,rags tied on sticks which are placed at intervals about the plantation will often frighten rabbits away4 ,girdled trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aei4 ,bridge-grafting a girdle4 ,trees that are girdled by mice should be wrapped up as soon as discovered1 so that the wood shall not become too dry4 ,when warm weather approaches1 shave off the edges of the girdle so that the healing tissue may grow freely1 smear the whole surface with grafting-wax1 or with clay1 and bind the whole wound with strong cloths4 ,even though the tree is completely girdled for a distance of three or four inches1 it usually may be saved by this treatment1 unless the injury extends into the wood4 ,the water from the roots rises through the soft wood and not between the bark and the wood1 as commonly supposed4 ,when this sap water has reached the foliage1 it takes part in the elaboration of plant-food1 and this food is distributed throughout the plant1 the path of transfer being in the inner layers of bark4 ,this food material1 being distributed back to the girdle1 will generally heal over the wound if the wood is not allowed to become dry4 ,in some cases1 however1 it is necessary to join the bark above and below the girdle by means of cions1 which are whittled to a wedge-shape on either end1 and inserted underneath the two edges of the bark 7,fig4 #aei74 ,the ends of the cions and the edges of the wound are held by a bandage of cloth1 and the whole work is protected by melted grafting-wax poured upon it4 ,footnote3 ,a good grafting-wax is made as follows3 ,into a kettle place one part by weight of tallow1 two parts of beeswax1 four parts of rosin4 ,when completely melted1 pour into a tub or pail of cold water1 then work it with the hands 7which should be greased7 until it develops a grain and becomes the color of taffy candy4 ,the whole question of the propagation of plants is discussed in 8,the ,nursery-,book40 ,repairing street trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afa4 ,a wound1 made by freezing1 trimmed out and filled with cement4 ,the following advice on 8tree surgery0 is by ,a4,d4 ,taylor 7,bulletin #bef1 ,cornell ,university1 from which the accompanying illustrations are adapted73-- 8,tree surgery includes the intelligent protection of all mechanical injuries and cavities4 ,pruning requires a previous intimate knowledge of the habits of growth of trees2 surgery1 on the other hand1 requires in addition a knowledge of the best methods for making cavities air-tight and preventing decay4 ,the filling of cavities in trees has not been practiced sufficiently long to warrant making a definite statement as to the permanent success or failure of the operation2 the work is still in an experimental stage4 ,the caring for cavities in trees must be urged as the only means of preserving affected specimens1 and the preservation of many noble specimens has been at least temporarily assured through the efforts of those practicing this kind of work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afj4 ,a cement-filled cavity at the base of a tree4 8,successful operation depends on two important factors3 first1 that all decayed parts of the cavity be wholly removed and the exposed surface thoroughly washed with an antiseptic2 second1 that the cavity1 when filled1 must be air tight and hermetically sealed if possible4 ,trees are treated as follows3 ,the cavity is thoroughly cleaned by removing all decayed wood and washing the interior surface with a solution of copper sulfate and lime1 in order to destroy any fungi that may remain4 ,the edges of the cavity are cut smooth in order to allow free growth of the cambium after the cavity is filled4 ,any antiseptic1 such as corrosive sublimate1 creosote1 or even paint1 may answer the purpose2 creosote1 however1 possesses the most penetrating powers of any4 ,the method of filling the cavities depends to a great extent on their size and form4 ,very large cavities with great openings are generally bricked on the outside1 over the opening1 and filled on the inside with concrete1 the brick serving the purpose of a retaining wall to hold the concrete in place4 ,concrete used for the main filling is usually made in the proportion of one part good ,portland cement1 two parts sand1 and four parts crushed stone1 the consistency of the mixture being such that it may be poured into the cavity and require little or no tamping to make the mass solid4 7,fig4 #afj47 8,fillings thus made are considered by expert tree surgeons to be a permanent preventive of decay4 ,the outside of the filling is always coated with a thin covering of concrete1 consisting of one part cement to two parts fine sand4 ,cavities resulting from freezing1 and which1 though large on the inside1 show only a long narrow crack on the outside1 are most easily filled by placing a form against the entire length of the opening1 having a space at the top through which the cement may be poured 7,fig4 #afa74 ,another method of retaining the concrete is to reinforce it from the outside by driving rows of spikes along the inner surface of either side of the cavity and lacing a stout wire across the face of the cavity4 ,for best results1 all fillings must come flush with the inner bark when finished4 ,during the first year1 this growing tissue will spread over the outer edge of the filling1 thus forming an hermetically sealed cavity4 ,in the course of time1 the outside of small or narrow openings should be completely covered with tissue1 which buries the filling from view4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afb4 ,bridge-grafting or in-arching from saplings planted about the tree4 8,it has been found that there is a tendency for portland cement to contract from the wood after it dries1 leaving a space between the wood and the cement through which water and germs of decay may enter4 ,a remedy for this defect has been suggested in the use of a thick coat of tar1 or an elastic cement which might be spread over the surface of the cavity before filling4 ,the cracking of portland cement on the surface of long cavities is caused by the swaying of trees during heavy storms1 and should not occur if the filling is correctly done4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afc4 ,faulty methods of bracing a crotched tree4 ,the lower method is wholly wrong4 ,the upper method is good if the bolt-heads are properly counter-sunk and the bolts tightly fitted2 but if the distance between the branches is great1 it is better to have two bolts and join them by hooks1 to allow of wind movements4 8,in addition to the preservation of decayed specimens by filling the cavities1 as above outlined1 it has been proposed to strengthen the tree by treating it as shown in ,fig4 #afb4 ,young saplings of the same species1 after having become established as shown1 are grafted by approach to the mature specimen4 8,injury frequently results from error in the method of attempting to save broken1 or to strengthen and support weak branches that are otherwise healthy4 ,the means used for supporting cracked1 wind-racked1 and overladen branches which show a tendency to split at the forks are bolting and chaining4 ,the practice of placing iron bands around large branches in order to protect them has resulted in much harm2 as the tree grows and expands1 such bands tighten1 causing the bark to be broken and resulting after a few years in a partial girdling 7,fig4 #afc74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afd4 ,trees ruined to allow of the passage of wires4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afe4 ,accommodating a wall to a valuable tree4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aff4 ,the death of a long stub4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afg4 ,bungling pruning4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afh4 ,the proper way to saw off a large limb4 ,a cut is first made on the under side to prevent splitting down2 then it is cut on the upper side4 ,then the entire 8stub0 is removed close to the trunk4 8,to bolt a tree correctly is comparatively inexpensive4 ,the safest method consists in passing a strong bolt through a hole bored in the branch for this purpose1 and fastening it on the outside by means of a washer and a nut4 ,generally the washer has been placed against the bark and the nut then holds it in place4 ,a better method of bolting1 and one which insures a neat appearance of the branch in addition to serving as the most certain safeguard against the entrance of disease1 is to counter-sink the nut in the bark and imbed it in portland cement4 ,the hole for the sinking of the nut and washer is thickly coated with lead paint and then with a layer of cement1 on which are placed the nut and washer1 both of which are then imbedded in cement4 ,if the outer surface of the nut be flush with the plane of the bark1 within a few years it will be covered by the growing tissue4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #afi4 ,a weak-bodied young tree well supported2 padding is placed under the bandages4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agj4 ,the wrong way of attaching a guy rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aga4 ,an allowable way of attaching a guy rope4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agb4 ,the best way of attaching a guy rope1 if a tree must be used as support4 8,the inner ends of the rods in the two branches may be connected by a rod or chain4 ,the preference for the chain over the rod attachment is based on the compressive and tensile stresses which come on the connection during wind storms4 ,rod connections are preferred1 however1 when rigidity is required1 as in unions made close to the crotch2 but for tying two branches together before they have shown signs of weakening at the fork1 the chain may best be used1 as the point of attachment may be placed some distance from the crotch1 where the flexibility factor will be important and the strain comparatively small4 ,elms in an advanced stage of maturity1 if subjected to severe climatic conditions1 often show this tendency to split4 ,these trees1 especially1 should be carefully inspected and means taken to preserve them1 by bolting if necessary40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agc4 ,a method of saving valuable trees along streets on which heavy lowering of grade has been made4 ,the illustrations1 ,figs4 #afd-agc1 are self-explanatory1 and show poor practice and good practice in the care of trees4 ,,ix4 ,a rocky bank covered with permanent informal planting4 ,,ix4 ,a rocky bank covered with permanent informal planting4 ,the grafting of plants4 ,grafting is the operation of inserting a piece of a plant into another plant with the intention that it shall grow4 ,it differs from the making of cuttings in the fact that the severed part grows in another plant rather than in the soil4 ,there are two general kinds of grafting--one of which inserts a piece of branch in the stock 7grafting proper71 and one which inserts only a bud with little or no wood attached 7budding74 ,in both cases the success of the operation depends on the growing together of the cambium of the cion 7or cutting7 and that of the stock4 ,the cambium is the new and growing tissue lying underneath the bark and on the outside of the growing wood4 ,therefore1 the line of demarcation between the bark and the wood should coincide when the cion and stock are joined4 ,the plant on which the severed piece is set is called the stock4 ,the part which is removed and set into the stock is called a cion if it is a piece of a branch1 or a 8bud0 if it is only a single bud with a bit of tissue attached4 ,the greater part of grafting and budding is performed when the cion or bud is nearly or quite dormant4 ,that is1 grafting is usually done late in winter and early in spring1 and budding may be performed then1 or late in summer1 when the buds have nearly or quite matured4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agd4 ,budding4 ,the 8bud02 the opening to receive it2 the bud tied4 ,the chief object of grafting is to perpetuate a kind of plant which will not reproduce itself from seed1 or of which seed is very difficult to obtain4 ,cions or buds are therefore taken from this plant and set into whatever kind of plant is obtainable on which they will grow4 ,thus1 if one wants to propagate the ,baldwin apple1 he does not for that purpose sow seeds thereof1 but takes cions or buds from a ,baldwin tree and grafts them into some other apple tree4 ,the stocks are usually obtained from seeds4 ,in the case of the apple1 young plants are raised from seeds which are secured mostly from cider factories1 without reference to the variety from which they came4 ,when the seedlings have grown to a certain age1 they are budded or grafted1 the grafted part making the entire top of the tree2 and the top bears fruit like that of the tree from which the cions were taken4 ,there are many ways in which the union between cion and stock is made4 ,budding may be first discussed4 ,it consists in inserting a bud underneath the bark of the stock1 and the commonest practice is that which is shown in the illustrations4 ,budding is mostly performed in ,july1 ,august1 and early ,september1 when the bark is still loose or in condition to peel4 ,twigs are cut from the tree which it is desired to propagate1 and the buds are cut off with a sharp knife1 a shield-shaped bit of bark 7with possibly a little wood7 being left with them 7,fig4 #agd74 ,the bud is then shoved into a slit made in the stock1 and it is held in place by tying with a soft strand4 ,in two or three weeks the bud will have 8stuck0 7that is1 it will have grown fast to the stock71 and the strand is cut to prevent its strangling the stock4 ,ordinarily the bud does not grow until the following spring1 at which time the entire stock or branch in which the bud is inserted is cut off an inch above the bud2 and the bud thereby receives all the energy of the stock4 ,budding is the commonest grafting operation in nurseries4 ,seeds of peaches may be sown in spring1 and the plants which result will be ready for budding that same ,august4 ,the following spring1 or a year from the planting of the seed1 the stock is cut off just above the bud 7which is inserted near the ground71 and in the fall of that year the tree is ready for sale2 that is1 the top is one season old and the root is two seasons old1 but in the trade it is known as a one-year-old tree4 ,in the ,south1 the peach stock may be budded in ,june or early ,july of the year in which the seed is planted1 and the bud grows into a saleable tree the same year3 this is known as ,june budding4 ,in apples and pears the stock is usually two years old before it is budded1 and the tree is not sold until the top has grown two or three years4 ,budding may be performed also in the spring1 in which case the bud will grow the same season4 ,budding is always done on young growths1 preferably on those not more than one year old4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #age4 ,whip-graft4 ,grafting is the insertion of a small branch 7or cion71 usually bearing more than one bud4 ,if grafting is employed on small stocks1 it is customary to employ the whip-graft 7,fig4 #age74 ,both stock and cion are cut across diagonally1 and a split made in each1 so that one fits into the other4 ,the graft is tied securely with a string1 and then1 if it is above ground1 it is also waxed carefully4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agf4 ,cleft-graft before waxing4 ,in larger limbs or stocks1 the common method is to employ the cleft-graft 7,fig4 #agf74 ,this consists in cutting off the stock1 splitting it1 and inserting a wedge-shaped cion in one or both sides of the split1 taking care that the cambium layer of the cion matches that of the stock4 ,the exposed surfaces are then securely covered with wax4 ,grafting is usually performed early in the spring1 just before the buds swell4 ,the cions should have been cut before this time1 when they were perfectly dormant4 ,cions may be stored in sand in the cellar or in the ice-house1 or they may be buried in the field4 ,the object is to keep them fresh and dormant until they are wanted4 ,if it is desired to change the top of an old plum1 apple1 or pear tree to some other variety1 it is usually accomplished by means of the cleft-graft4 ,if the tree is very young1 budding or whip-grafting may be employed4 ,on an old top the cions should begin to bear when three to four years old4 ,all the main limbs should be grafted4 ,it is important to keep down the suckers or watersprouts from around the grafts1 and part of the remaining top should be cut away each year until the top is entirely changed over 7which will result in two to four years74 ,a good wax for covering the exposed parts is described in the footnote on page #ade4 ,keeping records of the plantation4 ,if one has a large and valuable collection of fruit or ornamental plants1 it is desirable that he have some permanent record of them4 ,the most satisfactory method is to label the plants1 and then to make a chart or map on which the various plants are indicated in their proper positions4 ,the labels are always liable to be lost and to become illegible1 and they are often misplaced by careless workmen or mischievous boys4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agg4 ,the common stake label4 ,for vegetables1 annuals1 and other temporary plants1 the best labels are simple stakes1 like that shown in ,fig4 #agg4 ,garden stakes a foot long1 an inch wide1 and three-eighths inch thick may be bought of label manufacturers for three to five dollars a thousand4 ,these take a soft pencil very readily1 and if the labels are taken up in the fall and stored in a dry place1 they will last two or three years4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agh4 ,a good stake label1 with the legend covered4 ,for more permanent herbaceous plants1 as rhubarb and asparagus1 or even for bushes1 a stake that is sawed from clear pine or cypress1 eighteen inches long1 three inches wide1 and an inch or more thick1 affords a most excellent label4 ,the lower end of the stake is sawed to a point1 and is dipped in coal tar or creosote1 or other preservative4 ,the top of the stake is painted white1 and the legend is written with a large and soft pencil4 ,when the writing becomes illegible or the stake is needed for other plants1 a shaving is taken off the face of the label with a plane1 a fresh coat of paint added1 and the label is as good as ever4 ,these labels are strong enough to withstand shocks from whiffletrees and tools1 and should last ten years4 ,whenever a legend is written with a lead pencil1 it is advisable to use the pencil when the paint 7which should be white lead7 is still fresh or soft4 ,figure #agh shows a very good device for preserving the writing on the face of the label4 ,a block of wood is secured to the label by means of a screw1 covering the legend completely and protecting it from the weather4 ,if more ornamental stake labels are desired1 various types can be bought in the market1 or one can be made after the fashion of ,fig4 #agi4 ,this is a zinc plate that can be painted black1 on which the name is written with white paint4 ,many persons1 however1 prefer to paint the zinc white1 and write or stamp the label with black ink or black type4 ,two strong wire legs are soldered to the label1 and these prevent it from turning around4 ,these labels are1 of course1 much more expensive than the ordinary stake labels1 and are usually not so satisfactory1 although more attractive4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #agi4 ,metal stake label4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahj4 ,zinc tallies4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aha4 ,common zinc tally4 ,for labeling trees1 various kinds of zinc tallies are in common use1 as shown in ,figs4 #ahj and #aha4 ,fresh zinc takes a lead pencil readily1 and the writing often becomes more legible as it becomes older1 and it will usually remain three or four years4 ,these labels are attached either by wires1 as a1 b1 ,fig4 #ahj1 or they are wound about the limb as shown in c1 d1 and e1 in ,fig4 #ahj4 ,the type of zinc label most in use is a simple strip of zinc1 as shown in ,fig4 #aha1 wrapped about the limb4 ,the metal is so flexible that it expands readily with the growth of the branch4 ,while these zinc labels are durable1 they are very inconspicuous because of their neutral color1 and it is often difficult to find them in dense masses of foliage4 ,the common wooden label of the nurserymen 7,fig4 #ahb7 is perhaps as useful as any for general purposes4 ,if the label has had a light coat of thin white lead1 and the legend has been made with a soft lead pencil1 the writing should remain legible four or five years4 ,fig4 #ahc shows another type of label that is more durable1 since the wire is stiff and large1 and is secured around the limb by means of pincers4 ,the large loop allows the limb to expand1 and the stiff wire prevents the misplacing of the label by winds and workmen4 ,the tally itself is what is known as the 8package label0 of the nurserymen1 being six inches long1 one and one-fourth inches wide1 and costing 7painted7 less than one and one-half dollars a thousand4 ,the legend is made with a lead pencil when the paint is fresh1 and sometimes the label is dipped in thin white lead after the writing is made1 so that the paint covers the writing with a very thin protecting coat4 ,a similar label is shown in ,fig4 #ahd41 which has a large wire loop1 with a coil1 to allow the expansion of the limb4 ,the tallies of this type are often made of glass1 or porcelain with the name indelibly printed in them4 ,figure #ahe4 shows a zinc tally1 which is secured to the tree by means of a sharp and pointed wire driven into the wood4 ,some prefer to have two arms to this wire1 driving one point on either side of the tree4 ,if galvanized wire is used1 these labels will last for many years4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahb4 ,a common nursery label4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahc4 ,cornell tree label4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahd4 ,serviceable large-loop tree label4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahe4 ,zinc tree label4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahf4 ,injury by a tight label wire4 ,it is very important1 when adjusting labels to trees1 to be sure that the wire is not twisted tight against the wood4 ,figure #ahf shows the injury that is likely to result from label wires4 ,when a tree is constricted or girdled1 it is very liable to be broken off by winds4 ,it should be a rule to attach the label to a limb of minor importance1 so that if the wire should injure the part1 the loss will not be serious4 ,when the label1 ,fig4 #ahb1 is applied1 only the tips of the wire should be twisted together1 leaving a large loop for the expansion of the limb4 ,the storing of fruits and vegetables4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahg4 ,the old-fashioned 8outdoor cellar10 still a very useful and convenient storage place4 ,the principles involved in the storing of perishable products1 as fruits and vegetables1 differ with the different commodities4 ,all the root-crops1 and most fruits1 need to be kept in a cool1 moist1 and uniform temperature if they are to be preserved a great length of time4 ,squashes1 sweet-potatoes1 and some other things need to be kept in an intermediate and what might be called a high temperature2 and the atmosphere should be drier than for most other products4 ,the low temperature has the effect of arresting decomposition and the work of fungi and bacteria4 ,the moist atmosphere has the effect of preventing too great evaporation and the consequent shriveling4 ,in the storing of any commodity1 it is very important that the product is in proper condition for keeping4 ,discard all specimens that are bruised or are likely to decay4 ,much of the decay of fruits and vegetables in storage is not the fault of the storage process1 but is really the work of diseases with which the materials are infected before they are put into storage4 ,for example1 if potatoes and cabbages are affected with the rot1 it is practically impossible to keep them any length of time4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahh4 ,lean-to fruit cellar1 covered with earth4 ,the roof should be of cement or stone slabs4 ,provide a ventilator4 ,apples1 winter pears1 and all roots1 should be kept at a temperature somewhat near the freezing point4 ,it should not rise above #dj ,f4 for best results4 ,apples can be kept even at one or two degrees below the freezing point if the temperature is uniform4 ,cellars in which there are heaters are likely to be too dry and the temperature too high4 ,in such places it is well to keep fresh vegetables and fruits in tight receptacles1 and pack the roots in sand or moss in order to prevent shriveling4 ,in these places1 apples usually keep better if headed up in barrels than if kept on racks or shelves4 ,in moist and cool cellars1 however1 it is preferable for the home supply to place them on shelves1 not piling them more than five or six inches deep1 for then they can be sorted over as occasion requires4 ,in case of fruits1 be sure that the specimens are not over-ripe when placed in storage4 ,if apples are allowed to lie in the sun for a few days before being packed1 they will ripen so much that it is very difficult to keep them4 ,cabbages should be kept at a low and uniform temperature1 and water should be drained away from them4 ,they are stored in many ways in the field1 but success depends so much on the season1 particular variety1 ripeness1 and the freedom from injuries by fungi and insects1 that uniform results are rarely secured by any one method4 ,the best results are to be expected when they can be kept in a house built for the purpose1 in which the temperature is uniform and the air fairly moist4 ,when stored out of doors1 they are likely to freeze and thaw alternately2 and if the water runs into the heads1 mischief results4 ,sometimes they are easily stored by being piled into a conical heap on well-drained soil and covered with dry straw1 and the straw covered with boards4 ,it does not matter if they are frosted1 provided they do not thaw out frequently4 ,sometimes cabbages are laid head down in a shallow furrow plowed in well-drained land1 and over them is thrown straw1 the stumps being allowed to project through the cover4 ,it is only in winters of rather uniform temperature that good results are to be expected from such methods4 ,these are some of the main considerations involved in the storing of such things as cabbage2 the subject is mentioned again in the discussion of cabbage in ,chapter ,x4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ahi4 ,a fruit storage house cooled by ice4 ,in the storing of all products1 especially those which have soft and green matter1 as cabbages1 it is well to provide against the heating of the produce4 ,if the things are buried out of doors1 it is important to put on a very light cover at first so that the heat may escape4 ,cover them gradually as the cold weather comes on4 ,this is important with all vegetables that are placed in pits1 as potatoes1 beets1 and the like4 ,if covered deeply at once1 they are likely to heat and rot4 ,all pits made out of doors should be on well-drained and preferably sandy land4 ,when vegetables are wanted at intervals during the winter from pits1 it is well to make compartment pits1 each compartment holding a wagon load or whatever quantity will be likely to be wanted at each time4 ,these pits are sunk in well-drained land1 and between each of the two pits is left a wall of earth about a foot thick4 ,one pit can then be emptied in cold weather without interfering with the others4 ,an outside cellar is better than a house cellar in which there is a heater1 but it is not so handy4 ,if it is near the house1 it need not be inconvenient1 however4 ,a house is usually healthier if the cellar is not used for storage4 ,house cellars used for storage should have a ventilating shaft4 ,some of the principles involved in an ice-cooled storage house are explained in the diagram1 ,fig4 #ahi4 ,if the reader desires to make a careful study of storage and storage structures1 he should consult cyclopedias and special articles4 ,the forcing of plants4 ,there are three general means 7aside from greenhouses7 of forcing plants ahead of their season in the early spring--by means of forcing-hills and hand-boxes1 by coldframes1 and by hotbeds4 ,the forcing-hill is an arrangement by means of which a single plant or a single 8hill0 of plants may be forced where it permanently stands4 ,this type of forcing may be applied to perennial plants1 as rhubarb and asparagus1 or to annuals1 as melons and cucumbers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aij4 ,forcing-hill for rhubarb4 ,in ,fig4 #aij is illustrated a common method of hastening the growth of rhubarb in the spring4 ,a box with four removable sides1 two of which are shown in end section in the figure1 is placed around the plant in the fall4 ,the inside of the box is filled with straw or litter1 and the outside is banked thoroughly with any refuse1 to prevent the ground from freezing4 ,when it is desired to start the plants1 the covering is removed from both the inside and outside of the box and hot manure is piled around the box to its top4 ,if the weather is yet cold1 dry light leaves or straw may be placed inside the box2 or a pane or sash of glass may be placed on top of the box1 when it will become a coldframe4 ,rhubarb1 asparagus1 sea-kale1 and similar plants may be advanced two or four weeks by means of this method of forcing4 ,some gardeners use old barrels or half-barrels in place of the box4 ,the box1 however1 is better and handier1 and the sides can be stored for future use4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aia4 ,forcing-hill1 and the mold or frame for making it4 ,plants that require a long season in which to mature1 and which do not transplant readily1 as melons and cucumbers1 may be planted in forcing-hills in the field4 ,one of these hills is shown in ,fig4 #aia4 ,the frame or mold is shown at the left4 ,this mold is a box with flaring sides and no top or bottom1 and provided with a handle4 ,this frame is placed with the small end down at the point where the seeds are to be planted1 and the earth is hilled up about it and firmly packed with the feet4 ,the mold is then withdrawn1 and a pane of glass is laid upon the top of the mound to concentrate the sun's rays1 and to prevent the bank from washing down with the rains4 ,a clod of earth or a stone may be placed upon the pane to hold it down4 ,sometimes a brick is used as a mold4 ,this type of forcing-hill is not much used1 because the bank of earth is liable to be washed away1 and heavy rain coming when the glass is off will fill the hill with water and drown the plant4 ,however1 it can be used to very good advantage when the gardener can give it close attention4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aib4 ,hand-box4 ,a forcing-hill is sometimes made by digging a hole in the ground and planting the seeds in the bottom of it1 placing the pane of glass upon a slight ridge or mound which is made on the surface of the ground4 ,this method is less desirable than the other1 because the seeds are placed in the poorest and coldest soil1 and the hole is very likely to fill with water in the early days of spring4 ,an excellent type of forcing-hill is made by the use of the hand-box1 as shown in ,fig4 #aib4 ,this is a rectangular box1 without top or bottom1 and a pane of glass is slipped into a groove at the top4 ,it is really a miniature coldframe4 ,the earth is banked up slightly about the box1 in order to hold it against winds and to prevent the water from running into it4 ,if these boxes are made of good lumber and painted1 they will last for many years4 ,any size of glass may be used which is desired1 but a ten-by-twelve pane is as good as any for general purposes4 ,after the plants are thoroughly established in these forcing-hills1 and the weather is settled1 the protection is wholly removed1 and the plants grow normally in the open4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aic4 ,glass forcing-hill4 ,a very good temporary protection may be given to tender plants by using four panes of glass1 as explained in ,fig4 #aic1 the two inner panes being held together at the top by a block of wood through which four nails are driven4 ,plants are more likely to burn in these glass frames than in the hand-boxes1 and such frames are not so well adapted to the protection of plants in very early spring2 but they are often useful for special purposes4 ,in all forcing-hills1 as in coldframes and hotbeds1 it is exceedingly important that the plants receive plenty of air on bright days4 ,plants that are kept too close become weak or 8drawn01 and lose the ability to withstand changes of weather when the protection is removed4 ,even though the wind is cold and raw1 the plants inside the frames ordinarily will not suffer if the glass is taken off when the sun is shining4 ,coldframes4 ,a coldframe is nothing more than an enlarged hand-box2 that is1 instead of protecting but a single plant or a single hill with a single pane of glass1 the frame is covered with sash1 and is large enough to accommodate many plants4 ,there are three general purposes for which a coldframe is used3 ,for the starting of plants early in spring2 for receiving partially hardened plants that have been started earlier in hotbeds and forcing-houses2 for wintering young cabbages1 lettuce1 and other hardy plants that are sown in the fall4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aid4 ,coldframe against a building4 ,plants at ,e2 sill of house at ,a2 basement opening at ,b4 ,coldframes are ordinarily placed near the buildings1 and the plants are transplanted into the field when settled weather comes4 ,sometimes1 however1 they are made directly in the field where the plants are to remain1 and the frames1 and not the plants1 are removed4 ,when used for this latter purpose1 the frames are made very cheap by running two rows of parallel planks through the field at a distance apart of six feet4 ,the plank on the north is ordinarily ten to twelve inches wide1 and that on the south eight to ten inches4 ,these planks are held in place by stakes1 and the sashes are laid across them4 ,seeds of radishes1 beets1 lettuce1 and the like1 are then sown beneath the sash1 and when settled weather arrives1 the sash and planks are removed and the plants are growing naturally in the field4 ,half-hardy plants1 as those mentioned1 may be started fully two or three weeks in advance of the normal season by this means4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aie4 ,weather screen1 or coldframe1 against a building4 ,one of the simplest types of coldframes is shown in ,fig4 #aid1 which is a lean-to against the foundation of a house4 ,a sill is run just above the surface of the ground1 and the sashes1 shown at ,d1 are laid on rafters which run from this sill to the sill of the house1 ,a4 ,if this frame is on the south side of the building1 plants may be started even as early as a month before the opening of the season4 ,such lean-to frames are sometimes made against greenhouses or warm cellars1 and heat is supplied to them by the opening of a door in the wall1 as at ,b4 ,in frames that are in such sunny positions as these1 it is exceedingly important that care be taken to remove the sash1 or at least to give ample ventilation1 in all sunny days4 ,a different type of lean-to structure is shown in ,fig4 #aie4 ,this may be either a temporary or permanent building1 and it is generally used for the protection of half-hardy plants that are grown in pots and tubs4 ,it may be used1 however1 for the purpose of forwarding pot-plants early in the spring and for protection of peaches1 grapes1 oranges1 or other fruits in tubs or boxes4 ,if it is desired merely to protect the plants through the winter1 it is best to have the structure on the north side of the building1 in order that the sun may not force the plants into activity4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aif4 ,a pit or coldframe on permanent walls1 and a useful adjunct to a garden4 ,the rear cover is open 7a74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aig4 ,the usual form of coldframe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aih4 ,a strong and durable frame4 ,another structure that may be used both to carry half-hardy plants over winter and for starting plants early in spring is shown in ,fig4 #aif4 ,it is really a miniature greenhouse without heat4 ,it is well adapted for mild climates4 ,the picture was made from a structure in the coast region of ,north ,carolina4 ,the common type of coldframe is shown in ,fig4 #aig4 ,it is twelve feet long and six feet wide1 and is covered with four three-by-six sash4 ,it is made of ordinary lumber loosely nailed together4 ,if one expects to use coldframes or hotbeds every year1 however1 it is advisable to make the frames of two-inch stuff1 well painted1 and to join the parts by bolts and tenons1 so that they may be taken apart and stored until needed for the next year's crop4 ,figure #aih suggests a method of making frames so that they may be taken apart4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aii4 ,a frame yard4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjj4 ,portable coldframe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bja4 ,a larger portable coldframe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjb4 ,a commodious portable frame4 ,it is always advisable to place coldframes and hotbeds in a protected place1 and particularly to protect them from cold north winds4 ,buildings afford excellent protection1 but the sun is sometimes too hot on the south side of large and light-colored buildings4 ,one of the best means of protection is to plant a hedge of evergreens1 as shown in ,fig4 #aii4 ,it is always desirable1 also to place all the coldframes and hotbeds close together1 for the purpose of economizing time and labor4 ,a regular area or yard may be set aside for this purpose4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjc4 ,a low coldframe4 ,various small and portable coldframes may be used about the garden for the protection of tender plants or to start them early in the spring4 ,pansies1 daisies1 and border carnations1 for example1 may be brought on very early by setting such frames over them or by planting them under the frames in the fall4 ,these frames may be of any size desired1 and the sash may be either removable1 or1 in case of small frames1 they may be hinged at the top4 ,figs4 #bjj-bjc illustrate various types4 ,hotbeds4 ,a hotbed differs from a coldframe in being provided with bottom heat4 ,this heat is ordinarily supplied by means of fermenting manure1 but it may be obtained from other fermenting material1 as tanbark or leaves1 or from artificial heat1 as flues1 steam pipes1 or water pipes4 ,the hotbed is used for the very early starting of plants2 and when the plants have outgrown the bed1 or have become too thick1 they are transplanted into cooler hotbeds or into coldframes4 ,there are some crops1 however1 that are carried to full maturity in the hotbed itself1 as radishes and lettuce4 ,the date at which the hotbed may be started with safety depends almost entirely on the means at command of heating it and on the skill of the operator4 ,in the northern states1 where outdoor gardening does not begin until the first or the last of ,may1 hotbeds are sometimes started as early as ,january2 but they are ordinarily delayed until early in ,march4 ,the heat for hotbeds is commonly supplied by the fermentation of horse manure4 ,it is important that the manure be as uniform as possible in composition and texture1 that it come from highly fed horses1 and is practically of the same age4 ,the best results are usually secured with manure from livery stables1 from which it can be obtained in large quantities in a short space of time4 ,perhaps as much as one half of the whole material should be of litter or straw that has been used in the bedding4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjd4 ,hotbed with manure on top of the ground4 ,the manure is placed in a long and shallow square-topped pile1 not more than four or six feet high1 as a rule1 and is then allowed to ferment4 ,better results are generally obtained if the manure is piled under cover4 ,if the weather is cold and fermentation does not start readily1 wetting the pile with hot water may start it4 ,the first fermentation is nearly always irregular2 that is1 it begins unequally in several places in the pile4 ,in order to make the fermentation uniform1 the pile must be turned occasionally1 taking care to break up all hard lumps and to distribute the hot manure throughout the mass4 ,it is sometimes necessary to turn the pile five or six times before it is finally used1 although half this number of turnings is ordinarily sufficient4 ,when the pile is steaming uniformly throughout1 it is placed in the hotbed1 and is covered with the earth in which the plants are to be grown4 ,hotbed frames are sometimes set on top of the pile of fermenting manure1 as shown in ,fig4 #bjd4 ,the manure should extend some distance beyond the edges of the frame2 otherwise the frame will become too cold about the outside1 and the plants will suffer4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bje4 ,section of a hotbed built with a pit4 ,it is preferable1 however1 to have a pit beneath the frame in which the manure is placed4 ,if the bed is to be started in midwinter or very early in the spring1 it is advisable to make this pit in the fall and to fill it with straw or other litter to prevent the earth from freezing deep4 ,when it is time to make the bed1 the litter is thrown out1 and the ground is warm and ready to receive the fermenting manure4 ,the pit should be a foot wider on either side than the width of the frame4 ,fig4 #bje is a cross-section of such a hotbed pit4 ,upon the ground a layer of an inch or two of any coarse material is placed to keep the manure off the cold earth4 ,upon this1 from twelve to thirty inches of manure is placed4 ,above the manure is a thin layer of leafmold or some porous material1 that will serve as a distributor of the heat1 and above this is four or five inches of soft garden loam1 in which the plants are to be grown4 ,it is advisable to place the manure in the pit in layers1 each stratum to be thoroughly trodden down before another one is put in4 ,these layers should be four to eight inches in thickness4 ,by this means the mass is easily made uniform in consistency4 ,manure that has too much straw for the best results1 and which will therefore soon part with its heat1 will spring up quickly when the pressure of the feet is removed4 ,manure that has too little straw1 and which therefore will not heat well or will spend its heat quickly1 will pack down into a soggy mass underneath the feet4 ,when the manure has sufficient litter1 it will give a springy feeling to the feet as a person walks over it1 but will not fluff up when the pressure is removed4 ,the quantity of manure to be used will depend on its quality1 and also on the season in which the hotbed is made4 ,the earlier the bed is made1 the larger should be the quantity of manure4 ,hotbeds that are intended to hold for two months should have about two feet of manure1 as a rule4 ,the manure will ordinarily heat very vigorously for a few days after it is placed in the bed4 ,a soil thermometer should be thrust through the earth down to the manure1 and the frame kept tightly closed4 ,when the temperature is passing below #ij1 seeds of the warm plants1 like tomatoes1 may be sown1 and when it passes below #hj or #gj1 the seeds of cooler plants may be sown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjf ,parallel runs of hotbeds with racks for holding sashes4 ,if hotbeds are to be used every year1 permanent pits should be provided for them4 ,pits are made from two to three feet deep1 preferably the former depth1 and are walled up with stone or brick4 ,it is important that they be given good drainage from below4 ,in the summer-time1 after the sash are stripped1 the old beds may be used for the growing of various delicate crops1 as melons or half-hardy flowers4 ,in this position1 the plants can be protected in the fall4 ,as already suggested1 the pits should be cleaned out in the fall and filled with litter to facilitate the work of making the new bed in the winter or spring4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjg4 ,manure-heated greenhouse4 ,various modifications of the common type of hotbed will suggest themselves to the operator4 ,the frames should ordinarily run in parallel rows1 so that a man walking between them can attend to the ventilation of two rows of sash at once4 ,fig4 #bjf shows a different arrangement4 ,there are two parallel runs1 with walks on the outside1 and between them are racks to receive the sash from the adjacent frames4 ,the sash from the left-hand bed are run to the right1 and those from the right-hand bed are run to the left4 ,running on racks1 the operator does not need to handle them1 and the breakage of glass is therefore less2 but this system is little used because of the difficulty of reaching the farther side of the bed from the single walk4 ,if the hotbed were high enough and broad enough to allow a man to work inside1 we should have a forcing-house4 ,such a structure is shown in ,fig4 #bjg1 upon one side of which the manure and soil are already in place4 ,these manure-heated houses are often very efficient1 and are a good make-shift until such time as the gardener can afford to put in flue or pipe heat4 ,hotbeds may be heated by means of steam or hot water4 ,they can be piped from the heater in a dwelling-house or greenhouse4 ,fig4 #bjh shows a hotbed with two pipes1 in the positions #g1 #g beneath the bed4 ,the earth is shown at #d1 and the plants 7which1 in this case1 are vines7 are growing upon a rack1 at #f4 ,there are doors in the end of the house1 shown in #b1 #b1 which may be used for ventilation or for admitting air underneath the beds4 ,the pipes should not be surrounded by earth1 but should run through a free air space4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bjh4 ,pipe-heated hotbed4 ,it would scarcely pay to put in a hot water or steam heater for the express purpose of heating hotbeds1 for if such an expense were incurred1 it would be better to make a forcing-house4 ,hotbeds may be heated1 however1 with hot-air flues with very good results4 ,a home-made brick furnace may be constructed in a pit at one end of the run and underneath a shed1 and the smoke and hot air1 instead of being carried directly upwards1 is carried through a slightly rising horizontal pipe that runs underneath the beds4 ,for some distance from the furnace1 this flue may be made of brick or unvitrified sewer pipe1 but stove-pipe may be used for the greater part of the run4 ,the chimney is ordinarily at the farther end of the run of beds4 ,it should be high1 in order to provide a good draft4 ,if the run of beds is long1 there should be a rise in the underlying pipe of at least one foot in twenty-five4 ,the greater the rise in this pipe1 the more perfect will be the draft4 ,if the runs are not too long1 the underlying pipe may return underneath the beds and enter a chimney directly over the back end of the furnace1 and such a chimney1 being warmed from the furnace1 will ordinarily have an excellent draft4 ,the underlying pipe should occupy a free space or pit beneath the beds1 and whenever it lies near to the floor of the bed or is very hot1 it should be covered with asbestos cloth4 ,while such flue-heated hotbeds may be eminently successful with a grower or builder of experience1 it may nevertheless be said1 as a general statement1 that whenever such trouble and expense are incurred1 it is better to make a forcing-house4 ,the subject of forcing-houses and greenhouses is not discussed in this book4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bji4 ,useful kinds of watering-pots4 ,these are adapted to different uses1 as are different forms of hoes or pruning tools4 ,the most satisfactory material for use in hotbed and cold-frame sash is double-thick1 second-quality glass2 and panes twelve inches wide are ordinarily broad enough1 and they suffer comparatively little in breakage4 ,for coldframes1 however1 various oiled papers and waterproof cloths may be used1 particularly for plants that are started little in advance of the opening of the season4 ,when these materials are used1 it is not necessary to have expensive sash1 but rectangular frames are made from strips of pine seven-eighths inch thick and two and one-half inches wide1 halved together at the corners and each corner renforced by a square carriage-corner1 such as is used by carriage-makers to secure the corners of buggy boxes4 ,these corners can be bought by the pound at hardware stores4 ,management of hotbeds4 ,close attention is required in the management of hotbeds1 to insure that they do not become too hot when the sun comes out suddenly1 and to give plenty of fresh air4 ,ventilation is usually effected by raising the sash at the upper end and letting it rest upon a block4 ,whenever the temperature is above freezing point1 it is generally advisable to take the sash off part way1 as shown in the central part of ,fig4 #aii1 or even to strip it off entirely1 as shown in ,fig4 #aig4 ,care should be taken not to water the plants at nightfall1 especially in dull and cold weather1 but to give them water in the morning1 when the sun will soon bring the temperature up to its normal state4 ,skill and judgment in watering are of the greatest importance in the management of hotbeds2 but this skill comes only from thoughtful practice4 ,the satisfaction and effectiveness of the work are greatly increased by good hose connections and good watering-pots 7,fig4 #bji74 ,some protection1 other than the glass1 must be given to hotbeds4 ,they need covering on every cold night1 and sometimes during the entire day in very severe weather4 ,very good material for covering the sash is matting1 such as is used for covering floors4 ,old pieces of carpet may also be used4 ,various hotbed mattings are sold by dealers in gardeners' supplies4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baj4 ,the making of straw mats4 ,gardeners often make mats of rye straw1 although the price of good straw and the excellence of manufactured materials make this home-made matting less desirable than formerly4 ,such mats are thick and durable1 and are rolled up in the morning1 as shown in ,fig4 #aii4 ,there are various methods of making these straw mats1 but ,fig4 #baj illustrates one of the best4 ,a frame is made after the manner of a saw-horse1 with a double top1 and tarred or marline twine is used for securing the strands of straw4 ,it is customary to use six runs of this warp4 ,twelve spools of string are provided1 six hanging on either side4 ,some persons wind the cord upon two twenty-penny nails1 as shown in the figure1 these nails being held together at one end by wire which is secured in notches filed into them4 ,the other ends of the spikes are free1 and allow the string to be caught between them1 thus preventing the balls from unwinding as they hang upon the frame4 ,two wisps of straight rye straw are secured and laid upon the frame1 with the butt ends outward and the heads overlapping4 ,two opposite spools are then brought up1 and a hard knot is tied at each point4 ,the projecting butts of the straw are then cut off with a hatchet1 and the mat is allowed to drop through to receive the next pair of wisps4 ,in making these mats1 it is essential that the rye contains no ripe grain2 otherwise it attracts the mice4 ,it is best to grow rye for this especial purpose1 and to cut it before the grain is in the milk1 so that the straw does not need to be threshed4 ,in addition to these coverings of straw or matting1 it is sometimes necessary to provide board shutters to protect the beds1 particularly if the plants are started very early in the season4 ,these shutters are made of half-inch or five-eighths-inch pine lumber1 and are the same size as the sash--three by six feet4 ,they may be placed upon the sash underneath the matting1 or they may be used above the matting4 ,in some cases they are used without any matting4 ,in the growing of plants in hotbeds1 every effort should be made to prevent the plants from growing spindling1 or becoming 8drawn40 ,to make stocky plants1 it is necessary to give room to each plant1 to be sure that the distance from the plants to the glass is not great1 to provide not too much water in dull and cold weather1 and particularly to give abundance of air4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,protecting ,,plants ,,from ,,things ,,that ,,prey ,,on ,,them ,plants are preyed on by insects and fungi2 and they are subject to various kinds of disease that1 for the most part1 are not yet understood4 ,they are often injured also by mice and rabbits 7p4 #add71 by moles1 dogs1 cats1 and chickens2 and fruit is eaten by birds4 ,moles may be troublesome on sandy land2 they heave the ground by their burrowing and may often be killed by stamping when the burrow is being raised2 there are mole traps that are more or less successful4 ,dogs and cats work injury mostly by walking across newly made gardens or lying in them4 ,these animals1 as well as chickens1 should be kept within their proper place 7p4 #afj72 or if they roam at will1 the garden must be inclosed in a tight wire fence or the beds protected by brush laid closely over them4 ,the insects and diseases that attack garden plants are legion2 and yet1 for the most part1 they are not very difficult to combat if one is timely and thorough in his operations4 ,these difficulties may be divided into three great categories3 the injuries wrought by insects2 the injuries of parasitic fungi2 the various types of so-called constitutional diseases1 some of which are caused by germs or bacteria1 and many of which have not yet been worked out by investigators4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baa4 ,shot-hole disease of plum4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bab4 ,hollyhock rust4 ,the diseases caused by parasitic fungi are usually distinguished by distinct marks1 spots or blisters on the leaves or stems1 and the gradual weakening or death of the part2 and1 in many cases1 the leaves drop bodily4 ,for the most part1 these spots on the leaves or stems sooner or later exhibit a mildew-like or rusty appearance1 due to the development of the spores or fruiting bodies4 ,fig4 #baa illustrates the ravages of one of the parasitic fungi1 the shot-hole fungus of the plum4 ,each spot probably represents a distinct attack of the fungus1 and in this particular disease these injured parts of tissue are liable to fall out1 leaving holes in the leaf4 ,plum leaves that are attacked early in the season by this disease usually drop prematurely2 but sometimes the leaves persist1 being riddled by holes at the close of the season4 ,fig4 #bab is the rust of the hollyhock4 ,in this case the pustules of the fungus are very definite on the under side of the leaf4 ,the blisters of leaf-curl are shown in ,fig4 #bac4 ,the ragged work of apple scab fungus is shown in ,fig4 #bad4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bac4 ,leaf-curl of peach1 due to a fungus4 ,the constitutional and bacterial diseases usually affect the whole plant1 or at least large portions of it2 and the seat of attack is commonly not so much in the individual leaves as in the stems1 the sources of food supply being thereby cut off from the foliage4 ,the symptoms of this class of diseases are general weakening of plant when the disease affects the plant as a whole or when it attacks large branches2 or sometimes the leaves shrivel and die about the edges or in large irregular discolored spots1 but without the distinct pustular marks of the parasitic fungi4 ,there is a general tendency for the foliage on plants affected with such diseases to shrivel and to hang on the stem for a time4 ,one of the best illustrations of this type of disease is the pear-blight4 ,sometimes the plant gives rise to abnormal growths1 as in the 8willow shoots0 of peaches affected with yellows 7,fig4 #bae74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bad4 ,leaves and fruits injured by fungi1 chiefly apple-scab4 ,another class of diseases are the root-galls4 ,they are of various kinds4 ,the root-gall of raspberries1 crown-gall of peaches1 apples1 and other trees1 is the most popularly recognized of this class of troubles 7,fig4 #baf74 ,it has long been known as a disease of nursery stock4 ,many states have laws against the sale of trees showing this disease4 ,its cause was unknown1 until in #aijg ,smith and ,townsend1 of the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry1 ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture1 undertook an investigation4 ,they proved that it is a bacterial disease 7caused by ,bacterium tumefaciens72 but just how the bacteria gain entrance to the root is not known4 ,the same bacterium may cause galls on the stems of other plants1 as1 for example1 on certain of the daisies4 ,the 8hairy-root0 of apples1 and certain galls that often appear on the limbs of large apple-trees1 are also known to be caused by this same bacterium4 ,the disease seems to be most serious and destructive on the raspberry1 particularly the ,cuthbert variety4 ,the best thing to be done when the raspberry patch becomes infested is to root out the plants and destroy them1 planting a new patch with clean stock on land that has not grown berries for some time4 ,notwithstanding the laws that have been made against the distribution of root-gall from nurseries1 the evidence seems to show that it is not a serious disease of apples or peaches1 at least not in the northeastern ,united ,states4 ,it is not determined how far it may injure such trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bae4 ,the slender tufted growth indicating peach yellows4 ,the cause of this disease is undetermined4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #baf4 ,gall on a raspberry root4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bag4 ,canker-worm4 ,of obvious insect injuries1 there are two general types1--those wrought by insects that bite or chew their food1 as the ordinary beetles and worms1 and those wrought by insects that puncture the surface of the plant and derive their food by sucking the juices1 as scale-insects and plant-lice4 ,the canker-worm 7,fig4 #bag7 is a notable example of the former class2 and many of these insects may be dispatched by the application of poison to the parts that they eat4 ,it is apparent1 however1 that insects which suck the juice of the plant are not poisoned by any liquid that may be applied to the surface4 ,they may be killed by various materials that act upon them externally1 as the soap washes1 miscible oils1 kerosene emulsions1 lime-and-sulfur sprays1 and the like4 ,there has been much activity in recent years in the identification and study of insects1 fungi1 and microorganisms that injure plants2 and great numbers of bulletins and monographs have been published2 and yet the gardener who has tried assiduously to follow these investigations is likely to go to his garden any morning and find troubles that he cannot identify and which perhaps even an investigator himself might not understand4 ,it is important1 therefore1 that the gardener inform himself not only on particular kinds of insects and diseases1 but that he develop a resourcefulness of his own4 ,he should be able to do something1 even if he does not know a complete remedy or specific4 ,some of the procedure1 preventive and remedial1 that needs always to be considered1 is as follows3-- ,keep the place clean1 and free from infection4 ,next to keeping the plants vigorous and strong1 this is the first and best means of averting trouble from insects and fungi4 ,rubbish and all places in which the insects can hibernate and the fungi can propagate should be done away with4 ,all fallen leaves from plants that have been attacked by fungi should be raked up and burned1 and in the fall all diseased wood should be cut out and destroyed4 ,it is important that diseased plants are not thrown on the manure heap1 to be distributed through the garden the following season4 ,practice a rotation or alternation of crops 7p4 #aad74 ,some of the diseases remain in the soil and attack the plant year after year4 ,whenever any crop shows signs of root disease1 or soil disease1 it is particularly important that another crop be grown on the place4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bah4 ,a garden hand syringe4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bai4 ,a knapsack pump4 ,see that the disease or insect is not bred on weeds or other plants that are botanically related to the crop you grow4 ,if the wild mallow1 or plant known to children as 8cheeses0 7,malva rotundifolia71 is destroyed1 there will be much less difficulty with hollyhock rust4 ,do not let the cabbage club-root disease breed on wild turnips and other mustards1 or black-knot on plum sprouts and wild cherries1 or tent-caterpillars on wild cherries and other trees4 ,always be ready to resort to hand-picking4 ,we have grown so accustomed to killing insects by other means that we have almost forgotten that hand-picking is often the surest and sometimes even the most expeditious means of checking an invasion in a home garden4 ,many insects can be jarred off early in the morning4 ,egg-masses on leaves and stems may be removed4 ,cutworms may be dug out4 ,diseased leaves may be picked off and burned2 this will do much to combat the hollyhock rust1 aster rust1 and other infections4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbj ,a compressed-air hand pump for garden work4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bba ,a bucket pump4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbb ,a bucket pump4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbc ,a cart-mounted pump4 ,keep close watch on the plants1 and be prepared to strike quickly4 ,it should be a matter of pride to a gardener to have in his workhouse a supply of the common insecticides and fungicides 7,paris green or arsenate of lead1 some of the tobacco preparations1 white hellebore1 whale-oil soap1 bordeaux mixture1 flowers of sulfur1 carbonate of ,copper for solution in ammonia71 and also a good hand syringe 7,fig4 #bah71 a knapsack pump 7,figs4 #bai1 #bbj71 a bucket pump 7,figs4 #bba1 #bbb71 a hand bellows or powder gun1 perhaps a barrow outfit 7,figs4 #bbc1 #bbd1 #bbe71 and if the plantation is large enough1 some kind of a force pump 7,figs4 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh74 ,if one is always ready1 there is little danger from any insect or disease that is controllable by spraying4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbd4 ,a garden outfit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbe4 ,a cart-mounted barrel pump4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbf4 ,a barrel hand pump4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbg4 ,a barrel outfit1 showing nozzles on extension rods for trees4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbh4 ,a truck-mounted barrel hand spray ,pump4 ,screens and covers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bbi4 ,wire-covered box for protecting plants from insects4 ,there are various ways of keeping insects away from plants4 ,one of the best is to cover the plants with fine mosquito-netting or to grow them in hand-frames1 or to use a wire-covered box like that shown in ,fig4 #bbi4 ,in growing plants under such covers1 care must be taken that the plants are not kept too close or confined2 and in cases in which the insects hibernate in the soil1 these boxes1 by keeping the soil warm1 may cause the insects to hatch all the sooner4 ,in most cases1 however1 these covers are very efficient1 especially for keeping the striped bugs off young plants of melons and cucumbers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcj ,protecting from cut-worms4 ,cut-worms may be kept away from plants by placing sheets of tin or of heavy glazed paper about the stem of the plant1 as shown in ,fig4 #bcj4 ,climbing cut-worms are kept off young trees by the means shown in ,fig4 #bca4 ,or a roll of cotton may be placed about the trunk of the tree1 a string being tied on the lower edge of the roll and the upper edge of the cotton turned down like the top of a boot2 the insects cannot crawl over this obstruction 7p4 #bjc74 ,the maggots that attack the roots of cabbages and cauliflowers may be kept from the plant by pieces of tarred paper1 which are placed close about the stem upon the surface of the ground4 ,fig4 #bcb illustrates a hexagon of paper1 and also shows a tool used for cutting it4 ,this means of preventing the attacks of the cabbage maggot is described in detail by the late ,professor ,goff 7for another method of controlling cabbage maggot see p4 #bja73-- ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bca ,protecting trees from cut-worms4 8,the cards are cut in a hexagonal form1 in order better to economize the material1 and a thinner grade of tarred paper than the ordinary roofing felt is used1 as it is not only cheaper1 but being more flexible1 the cards made from it are more readily placed about the plant without being torn4 ,the blade of the tool1 which should be made by an expert blacksmith1 is formed from a band of steel1 bent in the form of a half hexagon1 and then taking an acute angle1 reaches nearly to the center1 as shown in ,fig4 #bcb4 ,the part making the star-shaped cut is formed from a separate piece of steel1 so attached to the handle as to make a close joint with the blade4 ,the latter is beveled from the outside all round1 so that by removing the part making the star-shaped cut1 the edge may be ground on a grindstone4 ,it is important that the angles in the blade be made perfect1 and that its outline represents an exact half hexagon4 ,to use the tool1 place the tarred paper on the end of a section of a log or piece of timber and first cut the lower edge into notches1 as indicated at a1 ,fig4 #bcb1 using only one angle of the tool4 ,then commence at the left side and place the blade as indicated by the dotted lines1 and strike at the end of the handle with a light mallet1 and a complete card is made4 ,continue in this manner across the paper4 ,the first cut of every alternate course will make an imperfect card1 and the last cut in any course may be imperfect1 but the other cuts will make perfect cards if the tool is correctly made1 and properly used4 ,the cards should be placed about the plants at the time of transplanting4 ,to place the card1 bend it slightly to open the slit1 then slip it on to the center1 the stem entering the slit1 after which spread the card out flat1 and press the points formed by the star-shaped cut snugly around the stem40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcb ,showing how paper is cut for protecting cabbages from maggots4 ,the ,goff device4 ,fumigating4 ,an effective means of destroying insects in glass houses is by fumigating with various kinds of smoke or vapors4 ,the best material to use for general purposes is some form of tobacco or tobacco compounds4 ,the old method of fumigating with tobacco is to burn slowly slightly dampened tobacco stems in a kettle or scuttle1 allowing the house to be filled with the pungent smoke4 ,lately1 however1 fluid extracts and other preparations of tobacco have been brought into use1 and these are so effective that the tobacco-stem method is becoming obsolete4 ,the use of hydrocyanic acid gas in greenhouses is now coming to be common1 for plant-lice1 white-fly1 and other insects4 ,it is also used to fumigate nursery stock for ,san ,jos scale1 and mills and dwellings for such pests and vermin as become established in them4 ,the following directions are from ,cornell ,bulletin #beb 7from which the formulas in the succeeding pages1 and most of the advice1 are also taken73-- 8,no general formula can be given for fumigating the different kinds of plants grown in greenhouses1 as the species and varieties differ greatly in their ability to withstand the effects of the gas4 ,ferns and roses are very susceptible to injury1 and fumigation if attempted at all should be performed with great caution4 ,fumigation will not kill insect eggs and thus must be repeated when the new brood appears4 ,fumigate only at night when there is no wind4 ,have the house as dry as possible and the temperature as near #fj as practicable4 8,hydrocyanic acid gas is a deadly poison1 and the greatest care is required in its use4 ,always use #ih to #ajj per cent pure potassium cyanide and a good grade of commercial sulfuric acid4 ,the chemicals are always combined in the following proportion3 ,potassium cyanide1 #a oz42 sulfuric acid1 #b fluid oz42 water1 #d fluid oz4 ,always use an earthen dish1 pour in the water first1 and add the sulfuric acid to it4 ,put the required amount of cyanide in a thin paper bag and when all is ready1 drop it into the liquid and leave the room immediately4 ,for mills and dwellings1 use #a oz4 of cyanide for every #ajj cu4 ft4 of space4 ,make the doors and windows as tight as possible by pasting strips of paper over the cracks4 ,remove the silverware and food1 and if brass and nickel work cannot be removed1 cover with vaseline4 ,place the proper amount of the acid and water for every room in #b-;gal4 jars4 ,use two or more in large rooms or halls4 ,weigh out the potassium cyanide in paper bags1 and place them near the jars4 ,when all is ready1 drop the cyanide into the jars1 beginning on the top floors1 since the fumes are lighter than air4 ,in large buildings1 it is frequently necessary to suspend the bags of cyanide over the jars by cords running through screw eyes and all leading to a place near the door4 ,by cutting all the cords at once the cyanide will be lowered into the jars and the operator may escape without injury4 ,let the fumigation continue all night1 locking all outside doors and placing danger signs on the house40 ,in greenhouses1 the white-fly on cucumbers and tomatoes may be killed by overnight fumigation with #a oz4 of potassium cyanide to every #ajjj cu4 ft4 of space2 or with a kerosene emulsion spray or whale-oil soap1 on plants not injured by these materials4 ,the green aphis is dispatched in houses by fumigation with any of the tobacco preparations2 on violets1 by fumigation with #a_/b to #c_/d oz4 potassium cyanide for every #ajjj cu4 ft4 of space1 leaving the gas in from #a_/b to #a hr4 ,the black aphis is more difficult to kill than the green aphis1 but may be controlled by the same methods thoroughly used4 ,soaking tubers and seeds4 ,potato scab may be prevented1 so far as planting infected 8seed0 is concerned1 by soaking the seed tubers for half an hour in #cj gal4 of water containing #a pt4 of commercial 7about #dj per cent7 formalin4 ,oats and wheat1 when attacked by certain kinds of smut1 may be rendered safe to sow by soaking for ten minutes in a similar solution4 ,it is probable that some other tubers and seeds can be similarly treated with good results4 ,potatoes may also be soaked 7for scab7 one and one-half hours in a solution of corrosive sublimate1 #a oz4 to #g gal4 of water4 ,spraying4 ,the most effective means of destroying insects and fungi however1 in any general or large way1 is by the use of various sprays4 ,the two general types of insecticides have already been mentioned--those that kill by poisoning1 and those that kill by destroying the body of the insect4 ,of the former1 there are three materials in common use--,paris green1 arsenate of lead1 and hellebore4 ,of the latter1 the most usual at present are kerosene emulsion1 miscible oils1 and the lime-sulfur wash4 ,sprays for fungi usually depend for their efficiency on some form of copper or sulfur1 or both4 ,for surface mildews1 as grape mildew1 dusting flowers of sulfur on the foliage is a protection4 ,in most cases1 however1 it is necessary to apply materials in liquid form1 because they can be more thoroughly and economically distributed1 and they adhere to the foliage better4 ,the best general fungicide is the bordeaux mixture4 ,it is generally1 however1 not advisable to use the bordeaux mixture on ornamental plants1 because it discolors the foliage and makes the plants look very untidy4 ,in such cases it is best to use the ammoniacal copper solution1 which leaves no stain4 ,in all spraying operations it is especially important that the applications be made the very moment the insect or disease is discovered1 or in the case of fungous diseases1 if one is expecting an attack1 it is well to make an application of bordeaux mixture even before the disease appears4 ,when the fungus once gets inside the plant tissue1 it is very difficult to destroy it1 inasmuch as fungicides act on these deep-seated fungi very largely by preventing their fruiting and their further spread on the surface of the leaf4 ,for ordinary conditions1 from two to four sprayings are necessary to dispatch the enemy4 ,in spraying for insects in home gardens1 it is often advisable to make a second application the day following the first one in order to destroy the remaining insects before they recover from the first treatment4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcc4 ,cyclone or vermorel type of nozzle1 single and multiple4 ,there are many kinds of machines and devices for the application of sprays to plants4 ,for a few individual specimens1 the spray may be applied with a whisk1 or with a common garden syringe4 ,if one has a few trees to treat1 however1 it is best to have some kind of bucket pump like those shown in ,figs4 #bba1 #bbb4 ,on a lawn or in a small garden a tank on wheels 7,figs4 #bbc1 #bbd1 #bbe7 is handy and efficient4 ,in such cases1 or even for larger areas1 some of the knapsack pumps 7,figs4 #bai1 #bbj7 are very desirable4 ,these machines are always serviceable1 because the operator stands so near to his work2 but as they carry a comparatively small quantity of liquid and do not throw it rapidly1 they are expensive when much work is to be done4 ,yet1 in ordinary home grounds1 the knapsack pump or compressed-air pump is one of the most efficient and practicable of all the spraying devices4 ,for large areas1 as for small orchards and fields1 a barrel pump mounted on a wagon is best4 ,common types of barrel pumps are shown in ,figs4 #bbf1 #bbg1 #bbh4 ,commercial plantations are now sprayed by power machines4 ,there are many good patterns of spraying machines1 and the intending purchaser should send for catalogues to the various manufacturers4 ,the addresses may be found in the advertising pages of rural papers4 ,as to nozzles for spraying it may be said that there is no one pattern that is best for all purposes4 ,for most uses in home grounds the cyclone or vermorel type 7,fig4 #bcc7 will give best satisfaction4 ,the pump manufacturers supply special nozzles for their machines4 ,insecticide spraying formulas4 ,the two classes of insecticides are here described1--the poisons 7arsenites and white hellebore7 for chewing insects1 as the beetles and all kinds of worms2 the contact insecticides1 as kerosene1 oils1 soap1 tobacco1 lime-sulfur1 for plant-lice1 scale1 and insects in such position that the material cannot be fed to them 7as maggots in the underground parts74 ,paris green4--,the standard insecticidal poison4 ,this is used in varying strengths1 depending on the insect to be controlled and the kind of plant treated4 ,mix the ,paris green into a paste and then add to the water4 ,keep the mixture thoroughly agitated while spraying4 ,if for use on fruit trees1 add #a lb4 of quick lime for every pound of ,paris green to prevent burning the foliage4 ,for potatoes it is frequently used alone1 but it is much safer to use the lime4 ,paris green and bordeaux mixture may be combined without lessening the value of either1 and the caustic action of the arsenic is prevented4 ,the proportion of the poison to use is given under the various insects discussed in the succeeding pages4 ,arsenate of lead4--,this can be applied in a stronger mixture than other arsenical poisons without injuring the foliage4 ,it is1 therefore1 much used against beetles and other insects that are hard to poison1 as elm-leaf beetle and canker-worm4 ,it comes in the form of a paste and should be mixed thoroughly with a small quantity of water before placing in the sprayer1 else the nozzles will clog4 ,arsenate of lead and bordeaux mixture can be combined without lessening the value of either4 ,it is used in strengths varying from #d to #aj lb4 per #ajj gal41 depending on the kind of insect to be killed4 ,arsenite of soda and arsenite of lime are sometimes used with bordeaux mixture4 ,white ,hellebore4--,for wet application1 use fresh white hellebore1 #d oz42 water1 #b or #c gal4 ,for dry application1 use hellebore1 #a lb42 flour or air-slaked lime1 #e lb4 ,this is a white1 yellowish powder made from the roots of the white hellebore plant4 ,it loses its strength after a time and should be used fresh4 ,it is used as a substitute for the arsenical poisons on plants or fruits soon to be eaten1 as on currants and gooseberries for the currant-worm4 ,tobacco4--,this is a valuable insecticide and is used in several forms4 ,as a dust it is used extensively in greenhouses for plant-lice1 and in nurseries and about apple trees for the woolly aphis4 ,tobacco decoction is made by steeping or soaking the stems in water4 ,it is often used as a spray against plant-lice4 ,tobacco in the form of extracts1 punks1 and powders is sold under various trade names for use in fumigating greenhouses4 7,see page #ahh47 ,kerosene emulsion4--,hard1 soft1 or whale-oil soap1 #a_/b lb42 water1 #a gal42 kerosene1 #b gal4 ,dissolve the soap in hot water2 remove from the fire and while still hot add the kerosene4 ,pump the liquid back into itself for five or ten minutes or until it becomes a creamy mass4 ,if properly made1 the oil will not separate out on cooling4 ,for use on dormant trees1 dilute with #e to #g parts of water4 ,for killing plant-lice on foliage dilute with #aj to #ae parts of water4 ,crude oil emulsion is made in the same way by substituting crude oil in place of kerosene4 ,the strength of oil emulsions is frequently indicated by the percentage of oil in the diluted liquid3-- ,for a #aj emulsion add #ag gal4 of water to #c gal4 stock emulsion4 ,for a #ae emulsion add #aj #a_/c gal4 of water to #c gal4 stock emulsion4 ,for a #bj emulsion add #g gal4 of water to #c gal4 stock emulsion4 ,for a #be emulsion add #e gal4 of water to #c gal4 stock emulsion4 ,carbolic acid emulsion4--,soap1 #a lb42 water1 #a gal42 crude carbolic acid1 #a pt4 ,dissolve the soap in hot water1 add the carbolic acid1 and agitate into an emulsion4 ,for use against root-maggots1 dilute with #cj parts of water4 ,soaps4--,an effective insecticide for plant-lice is whale-oil soap4 ,dissolve in hot water and dilute so as to obtain one pound of soap to every five or seven gallons of water4 ,this strength is effective against plant-lice4 ,it should be applied in stronger solutions1 however1 for scale insects4 ,home-made soaps and good laundry soaps1 like ,ivory soap1 are often as effective as whale-oil soap4 ,miscible oils4--,there are now on the market a number of preparations of petroleum and other oils intended primarily for use against the ,san ,jos scale4 ,they mix readily with cold water and are immediately ready for use4 ,while quickly prepared1 easily applied1 and generally effective1 they cost considerably more than lime-sulfur wash4 ,they are1 however1 less corrosive to the pumps and more agreeable to use4 ,they are especially valuable to the man with only a few trees or shrubs who would not care to go to the trouble and expense to make up the lime-sulfur wash4 ,they should be diluted with not more than #aj or #ab parts of water4 ,use only on dormant trees4 ,lime and sulfur wash4--,quicklime1 #bj lb42 flowers of sulfur1 #ae lb42 water1 #ej gal4 ,the lime and sulfur must be thoroughly boiled4 ,an iron kettle is often convenient for the work4 ,proceed as follows3 ,place the lime in the kettle4 ,add hot water gradually in sufficient quantity to produce the most rapid slaking of the lime4 ,when the lime begins to slake1 add the sulfur and stir together4 ,if convenient1 keep the mixture covered with burlap to save the heat4 ,after slaking has ceased1 add more water and boil the mixture one hour4 ,as the sulfur goes into solution1 a rich orange-red or dark green color will appear4 ,after boiling sufficiently1 add water to the required amount and strain into the spray tank4 ,the wash is most effective when applied warm1 but may be applied cold4 ,if one has access to a steam boiler1 boiling with steam is more convenient and satisfactory4 ,barrels may be used for holding the mixture1 and the steam applied by running a pipe or rubber hose into the mixture4 ,proceed in the same way until the lime is slaked1 when the steam may be turned on4 ,continue boiling for #de min4 to an hour1 or until sulfur is dissolved4 ,this strength can be applied safely only when the trees are dormant4 ,it is mainly an insecticide for ,san ,jos scale1 although it has considerable value as a fungicide4 ,lime-sulfur mixtures and solutions for summer spraying are now coming to take the place of bordeaux in many cases4 ,scott's self-boiled lime-sulfur mixture1 described in ,u4 ,s4 ,d4 ,a4 ,bureau ,plant ,industry ,circ4 #bg is now a standard fungicide for brown-rot and black-spot or scab of the peach4 ,concentrated lime-sulfur solutions1 either home boiled or commercial1 are effective against apple scab and have the advantage of not russeting the fruit4 ,such concentrates1 testing #cb ,baume1 should be diluted at about #a gal4 to #cj of water4 ,apply at same time as with bordeaux4 ,add arsenate of lead as with bordeaux4 ,fungicide spraying formulas4 ,the standard fungicide is bordeaux mixture1 made in several forms4 ,the second most important fungicide for the home gardener is ammoniacal copper carbonate4 ,sulfur dust 7flowers of sulfur7 and liver of sulfur 7potassium sulfide7 are also useful in dry or wet sprays for surface mildews4 ,the lime-sulfur wash1 primarily an insecticide1 also has fungicidal property4 ,bordeaux mixture4--,copper sulfate1 #e lb42 stone lime or quicklime 7unslaked71 #e lb42 water1 #ej gal4 ,this formula is the strength usually recommended4 ,stock mixtures of copper sulfate and lime are desirable4 ,they are prepared in the following way3-- 7#a7 ,dissolve the required amount of copper sulfate in water in the proportion of one pound to one gallon several hours before the solution is needed1 the copper sulfate crystals being suspended in a sack near the top of the water4 ,a solution of copper sulfate is heavier than water4 ,as soon then1 as the crystals begin to dissolve the solution will sink1 keeping water in contact with the crystals4 ,in this way1 the crystals will dissolve much sooner than if placed in the bottom of the barrel of water4 ,in case large quantities of stock solution are needed1 two pounds of copper sulfate may be dissolved in one gallon of water4 7#b7 ,slake the required amount of lime in a tub or trough4 ,add the water slowly at first1 so that the lime crumbles into a fine powder4 ,if small quantities of lime are used1 hot water is preferred4 ,when completely slaked1 or entirely powdered1 add more water4 ,when the lime has slaked sufficiently1 add water to bring it to a thick milk1 or to a certain number of gallons4 ,the amount required for each tank of spray mixture can be secured approximately from this stock mixture1 which should not be allowed to dry out4 7#c7 ,use five gallons of stock solution of copper sulfate for every fifty gallons of bordeaux required4 ,pour this into the tank4 ,add water until the tank is about two-thirds full4 ,from the stock lime mixture take the required amount4 ,knowing the number of pounds of lime in the stock mixture and the volume of that mixture1 one can take out approximately the number of pounds required4 ,dilute this a little by adding water1 and strain into the tank4 ,stir the mixture1 and add water to make the required amount4 ,experiment stations often recommend the diluting of both the copper sulfate solution and the lime mixture to one-half the required amount before pouring together4 ,this is not necessary1 and is often impracticable for commercial work4 ,it is preferable to dilute the copper sulfate solution4 ,never pour together the strong stock mixtures and dilute afterward4 ,bordeaux mixture of other strengths1 as recommended1 is made in the same way1 except that the amounts of copper sulfate and lime are varied4 7#d7 ,it is not necessary to weigh the lime in making bordeaux mixture1 for a simple test can be used to determine when enough of a stock lime mixture has been added4 ,dissolve an ounce of yellow prussiate of potash in a pint of water and label it 8poison40 ,cut a ,v-shaped slit in one side of the cork so that the liquid may be poured out in drops4 ,add the lime mixture to the diluted copper sulfate solution until the ferro-cyanide 7or prussiate7 test solution will not turn brown when dropped from the bottle into the mixture4 ,it is always best to add a considerable excess of lime4 8,sticker0 or adhesive for bordeaux mixture4--,resin1 #b lb42 sal soda 7crystals71 #a lb42 water1 #a gal4 ,boil until of a clear brown color--one to one and one-half hours4 ,cook in iron kettle in the open4 ,add this amount to each fifty gallons of bordeaux for onions and cabbage4 ,for other plants difficult to wet1 add this amount to every one hundred gallons of the mixture4 ,this mixture will prevent the bordeaux from being washed off by the heaviest rains4 ,ammoniacal copper carbonate4--,copper carbonate1 #e oz42 ammonia1 #c pt42 water1 #ej gal4 ,dilute the ammonia in seven or eight parts of water4 ,make a paste of the copper carbonate with a little water4 ,add the paste to the diluted ammonia1 and stir until dissolved4 ,add enough water to make fifty gallons4 ,this mixture loses strength on standing1 and therefore should be made as required4 ,it is used in place of bordeaux when one wishes to avoid the coloring of maturing fruits or ornamental plants4 ,not as effective as bordeaux4 ,potassium sulfide4--,potassium sulfide 7liver of sulfur71 #c oz42 water1 #aj gal4 ,as this mixture loses strength on standing1 it should be made just before using4 ,it is particularly valuable for the powdery mildew of many plants1 especially gooseberry1 carnation rust1 rose mildew1 etc4 ,sulfur4--,sulfur has been found to possess considerable value as a fungicide4 ,the flowers of sulfur may be sprinkled over the plants1 particularly when they are wet4 ,it is most effective in hot1 dry weather4 ,in rose houses it is mixed with half its bulk of lime1 and made into a paste with water4 ,this is painted on the steam pipes4 ,the fumes destroy mildew on the roses4 ,mixed with lime1 it has proved effective in the control of onion smut when drilled into the rows with the seed4 ,sulfur is not effective against black-rot of grapes4 ,treatment for some of the common insects4 ,the most approved preventive and remedial treatments for such insect pests as are most likely to menace home grounds and plantations are here briefly discussed4 ,in case of any unusual difficulty that he cannot control1 the home-maker should take it up with the agricultural experiment station in the state1 sending good specimens of the insect for identification4 ,he should also have the publications of the station4 ,the statements that are here made are intended as advice rather than as directions4 ,they are chosen from good authorities 7mostly from ,slingerland and ,crosby in this case72 but the reader must1 of course1 assume his own risk in applying them4 ,the effectiveness of any recommended treatment depends very largely on the care1 thoroughness1 and timeliness with which the work is done2 and new methods and practices are constantly appearing as the result of new investigations4 ,the dates given in these directions are for ,new ,york4 ,aphis or plant-louse4--,the stock remedies for aphides or plant-lice are kerosene emulsion and the tobacco preparations4 ,whale-oil soap is also good4 ,the tobacco may be applied as a spray1 or in the house as fumigation2 the commercial forms of nicotine are excellent4 7,see page #aid47 ,be sure to apply the remedy before the leaves have curled and afford protection for the lice2 be sure1 also1 to hit the underside of the leaves1 where the lice usually are4 ,the presence of lice on trees is sometimes first discovered from the honey-dew that drops on walks4 ,usually the emulsion is diluted with #aj-ae parts of water for plant-lice 7see formula1 page #aid72 but some of the species 7as the dark brown cherry-leaf louse7 require a stronger emulsion1 about #f parts of water4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcd4 ,lady-bird beetle2 larva above ,the lady-birds 7one of which is shown in ,fig4 #bcd7 destroy great numbers of plant-lice1 and their presence should therefore be encouraged4 ,apple-maggot or 8railroad-worm40--,the small white maggots make brownish winding burrows in the flesh of the fruit1 particularly in summer and early fall varieties4 ,this insect cannot be reached by a spray as the parent fly inserts her eggs under the skin of the apple4 ,when full-grown1 the maggot leaves the fruit1 passes into the ground1 and there transforms inside a tough1 leathery case4 ,tillage has been found to be of no value as a means of control4 ,the only effective treatment is to pick up all windfalls every two or three days1 and either to feed them out or to bury them deeply1 thus killing the maggots4 ,asparagus beetle4--,clean cultural methods are usually sufficient to prevent the asparagus beetle's seriously injuring well-established beds4 ,young plants require more or less protection4 ,a good grade of arsenate of lead1 #a lb4 to #be gal4 of water1 will quickly destroy the grubs on the foliage of either young or old plants4 ,apply it with an ordinary sprinkling can1 or better1 use one of the numerous spraying devices now on the market4 ,the necessity for treatment must be determined by the abundance of the pests4 ,they should not be permitted to become abundant in midsummer or the over-wintering beetles may injure the shoots in the spring4 ,blister-mite on apple and pear4--,the presence of this minute mite is indicated by small irregular brownish blisters on the leaves4 ,spray in late fall or early spring with the lime-sulfur wash1 with kerosene emulsion1 diluted with #e parts of water1 or miscible oil1 #a gal4 in #aj gal4 of water4 ,borers4--,the only certain remedy for borers is to dig them out1 or to punch them out with a wire4 ,keep the space about the base of the tree clean1 and watch closely for any sign of borers4 ,the flat-headed borer of the apple works under the bark on the trunk and larger branches1 particularly where much exposed to sun4 ,the dead and sunken appearance of the bark indicates its presence4 ,the round-headed borer works in the wood of apples1 quinces1 and other trees2 it should be hunted for every spring and fall4 ,on hard land1 it is well to dig the earth away from the base of the tree and fill the space with coal ashes2 this will make the work of examination much easier4 ,the peach and apricot borer is the larva of a clear-wing moth4 ,the larva burrows just under the bark near or beneath the surface of the ground2 its presence is indicated by a gummy mass at the base of the tree4 ,dig out the borers in ,june and mound up the trees4 ,at the same time1 apply gas-tar or coal-tar to the trunk from the roots to a foot or more above the surface of the ground4 ,the bronze birch borer is destroying many fine white birch trees in some parts of the country4 ,its presence is known by the dying of the top of the tree4 ,there yet is no known way of preventing this borer from attacking white birches1 and the only practicable and effective method so far found for checking its ravages is promptly to cut and burn the infested trees in autumn1 in winter1 or before ,may #a4 ,there is no probability of saving a tree when the top branches are dead1 although cutting out the dead parts may stay the trouble temporarily4 ,cut and burn such trees at once and thus prevent the spread of the insect4 ,bud-moth on apple4--,the small brown caterpillars with black heads devour the tender leaves and flowers of the opening apple buds in early spring4 ,make two applications of either #a lb4 ,paris green or #d lb4 arsenate of lead in #ajj gal4 of water2 the first when the leaf-tips appear and the second just before the blossoms open4 ,if necessary1 spray again after the blossoms fall4 ,cabbage and cauliflower insects4--,the green caterpillars that eat cabbage leaves and heads hatch from eggs laid by the common white butterfly 7,fig4 #bie74 ,there are several broods every season4 ,if plants are not heading1 spray with kerosene emulsion or with ,paris green to which the sticker has been added4 ,if heading1 apply hellebore4 ,the cabbage aphides1 small mealy plant-lice1 are especially troublesome during cool1 dry seasons when their natural enemies are less active4 ,before the plants begin to head1 spray with kerosene emulsion diluted with #f parts of water1 or whale-oil soap1 #a lb4 in #f gal4 of water4 ,the white maggots that feed on the roots hatch from eggs laid near the plant at the surface of the ground by a small fly somewhat resembling the common house fly4 ,hollow out the earth slightly around every plant and freely apply carbolic acid emulsion diluted with #cj parts of water4 ,begin the treatment early1 a day or two after the plants are up or the next day after they are set out4 ,repeat the application every #g to #aj days until the latter part of ,may4 ,it has also been found to be practicable to protect the plants by the use of tightly fitting cards cut from tarred paper4 7,see page #ahg47 ,canker-worms4--,these caterpillars are small measuring-worms or loopers that defoliate apple trees in ,may and ,june 7,fig4 #bag74 ,the female moths are wingless1 and in late fall or early spring crawl up the trunks of the trees to lay their eggs on the branches4 ,spray thoroughly once or twice1 before the blossoms open1 with #a lb4 ,paris green or #d lb4 arsenate of lead in #ajj gal4 of water4 ,repeat the application after the blossoms fall4 ,prevent the ascent of the wingless females by means of sticky bands or wire-screen traps4 ,case-bearers on apple4--,the small caterpillars live in pistol-shaped or cigar-shaped cases1 about #a_/d in4 long4 ,they appear in spring on the opening buds at the same time as the bud-moth and may be controlled by the same means4 ,codlin-moth4--,the codlin-moth lays the eggs that produce the pinkish caterpillar which causes a large proportion of wormy apples and pears4 ,the eggs are laid by a small moth on the leaves and on the skin of the fruit4 ,most of the caterpillars enter the apple at the blossom end4 ,when the petals fall1 the calyx is open and this is the time to spray4 ,the calyx soon closes and keeps the poison inside ready for the young caterpillar's first meal4 ,after the calyx has closed1 it is too late to spray effectively4 ,the caterpillars become full grown in ,july and ,august1 leave the fruit1 crawl down on the trunk1 and there most of them spin cocoons under the loose bark4 ,in most parts of the country there are two broods annually4 ,immediately after the blossoms fall1 spray with #a lb4 ,paris green or #d lb4 arsenate of lead in #ajj gal4 of water4 ,repeat the application #g to #aj days later4 ,use burlap bands on trunks1 killing all caterpillars under them every ten days from ,july #a to ,august #a1 and once later before winter4 ,cucurbit 7cucumber1 melon1 and squash7 insects4--,yellow1 black-striped beetles appear in numbers and attack the plants as soon as they are up4 ,plant early squashes as a trap-crop around the field4 ,protect the vines with screens 7,fig4 #bbi7 until they begin to run1 or keep them covered with bordeaux mixture1 thus making them distasteful to the beetles4 ,squash vines are frequently killed by a white caterpillar that burrows in the stem near the base of the plant4 ,plant a few early squashes between the rows of the late varieties as a trap-crop4 ,as soon as the early crop is harvested1 remove and burn the vines4 ,when the vines are long enough1 cover them at the joints with earth in order to develop secondary root systems for the plant in case the main stem is injured4 ,dark green plant-lice feed on the under sides of squash leaves1 causing them to curl and wither4 ,spray with kerosene emulsion diluted with #f parts of water4 ,it is necessary thoroughly to cover the under side of the leaves2 the sprayer1 therefore1 must be fitted with an upturned nozzle4 ,burn the vines as soon as the crop is harvested and keep down all weeds4 ,the stink-bug is very troublesome to squashes4 ,the rusty-black adult emerges from hibernation in spring and lays its eggs on the under side of the leaves4 ,the nymphs suck the sap from the leaves and stalks1 causing serious injury4 ,trap the adults under boards in the spring4 ,examine the leaves for the smooth shining brownish eggs and destroy them4 ,the young nymphs may be killed with kerosene emulsion4 ,curculio4--,the adult curculio of the plum and peach is a small snout-beetle that inserts its eggs under the skin of the fruit and then makes a characteristic crescent-shaped cut beneath it4 ,the grub feeds within the fruit and causes it to drop4 ,when full grown1 it enters the ground1 changes in late summer to the beetle1 which finally goes into hibernation in sheltered places4 ,spray plums just after blossoms fall with arsenate of lead1 #f to #h lb4 in #ajj gal4 of water1 and repeat the application in about a week4 ,after the fruit has set1 jar the trees daily over a sheet or curculio-catcher and destroy the beetles2 this is practically the only procedure for peaches1 for they cannot be sprayed4 ,the quince curculio is somewhat larger than that infesting the plum and differs in its life-history4 ,the grubs leave the fruits in the fall and enter the ground1 where they hibernate and transform to adults the next ,may1 ,june1 or ,july1 depending on the season4 ,when the adults appear1 jar them from the tree on sheets or curculio-catchers and destroy them4 ,to determine when they appear1 jar a few trees daily1 beginning the latter part of ,may in ,new ,york4 ,currant-worm4--,in the spring the small green1 black-spotted larvae feed on the foliage of currants and gooseberries1 beginning their work on the lower leaves4 ,a second brood occurs in early summer4 ,when worms first appear1 spray with #a lb4 ,paris green or #d lb4 arsenate of lead in #ajj gal4 of water4 ,ordinarily the poison should be combined with bordeaux 7for leaf-spot74 ,cut-worms4--,probably the remedy for cut-worms most often practiced in gardens1 and which cannot fail to be effective when faithfully carried out1 is hand-picking with lanterns at night or digging them out from around the base of the infested plants during the day4 ,bushels of cut-worms have been gathered in this way1 and with profit4 ,when from some cause success does not attend the use of the poisoned baits1 to be discussed next1 hand-picking is the only other method yet recommended that can be relied upon to check cut-worm depredations4 ,the best methods yet devised for killing cut-worms in any situation are the poisoned baits1 using ,paris green or arsenate of lead for the purpose4 ,poisoned bunches of clover or weeds have been thoroughly tested1 even by the wagon-load1 over large areas1 and nearly all have reported them very effective2 lamb's quarters 7pigweed71 pepper-grass1 and mullein are among the weeds especially attractive to cutworms4 ,on small areas the making of the baits is done by hand1 but they have been prepared on a large scale by spraying the plants in the field1 cutting them with a scythe or machine1 and pitching them from wagons in small bunches wherever desired4 ,distributed a few feet apart1 between rows of garden plants at nightfall1 they have attracted and killed enough cut-worms often to save a large proportion of the crop2 if the bunches can be covered with a shingle1 they will keep fresher much longer4 ,the fresher the baits1 and the more thoroughly the baiting is done1 the more cut-worms one can destroy4 ,however1 it may sometimes happen that a sufficient quantity of such green succulent plants cannot be obtained early enough in the season in some localities4 ,in this case1 and we are not sure but in all cases1 the poisoned bran mash can be used to the best advantage4 ,it is easily made and applied at any time1 is not expensive1 and thus far the results show that it is a very attractive and effective bait4 ,a tablespoonful can be quickly dropped around the base of each cabbage or tomato plant2 small amounts may be easily scattered along the rows of onions and turnips1 or a little dropped on a hill of corn or cucumbers4 ,the best time to apply these poisoned baits is two or three days before any plants have come up or been set out in the garden4 ,if the ground has been properly prepared1 the worms will have had but little to eat for several days and they will thus seize the first opportunity to appease their hunger upon the baits1 and wholesale destruction will result4 ,the baits should always be applied at this time wherever cut-worms are expected4 ,but it is not too late usually to save most of a crop after the pests have made their presence known by cutting off some of the plants4 ,act promptly and use the baits freely4 ,for mechanical means of protecting from cut-worms1 see pp4 #ahf-g4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bce4 ,elm-leaf beetle1 adult1 somewhat enlarged 7after ,howard74 ,elm-leaf beetle4--,generally speaking one thorough and timely spraying is ample to control the elm-leaf beetle 7,fig4 #bce74 ,use arsenate of lead1 #a lb4 to #be gal41 and make the application to the under side of the leaves the latter part of ,may or very early in ,june in ,new ,york4 ,occasionally1 when the beetle is very abundant1 due in all probability to no spraying in earlier years1 it may be advisable to make a second application1 and the same may be true when conditions necessitate the application earlier than when it will be most efficacious4 ,this latter condition is likely to obtain wherever a large number of trees must be treated with inadequate outfit4 ,oyster-shell scale4--,this is an elongate scale or bark-louse1 #a_/h in4 in length1 resembling an oyster shell in shape and often incrusting the bark of apple twigs4 ,it hibernates as minute white eggs under the old scales4 ,the eggs hatch during the latter part of ,may or in ,june1 the date depending on the season4 ,after they hatch1 the young may be seen as tiny whitish lice crawling about on the bark4 ,when these young appear1 spray with kerosene emulsion1 diluted with #f parts of water1 or whale-oil or any good soap1 #a lb4 in #d or #e gal4 of water4 ,pear insects4--,the psylla is one of the most serious insects affecting the pear tree4 ,it is a minute1 yellowish1 flat-bodied1 sucking insect often found in the axils of the leaves and fruit early in the season4 ,they develop into minute cicada-like jumping-lice4 ,the young psyllas secrete a large quantity of honey-dew in which a peculiar black fungus grows1 giving the bark a characteristic sooty appearance4 ,there may be four broods annually and the trees are often seriously injured4 ,after the blossoms fall1 spray with kerosene emulsion1 diluted with #f parts of water1 or whale-oil soap1 #a lb4 in #d or #e gal4 of water4 ,repeat the application at intervals of #c to #g days until the insects are under control4 ,the pear slug is a small1 slimy1 dark green larva which skeletonizes the leaves in ,june1 and a second brood appears in ,august4 ,spray thoroughly with #a lb4 ,paris green1 or #d lb4 arsenate of lead1 in #ajj gal4 of water4 ,potato insects4--,the ,colorado potato beetle1 or potato-bug1 emerges from hibernation in the spring and lays masses of orange eggs on the under side of the leaves4 ,the larvae are known as 8slugs0 and 8soft-shells0 and cause most of the injury to the vines4 ,spray with ,paris green1 #b lb4 in #ajj gal4 of water1 or arsenite of soda combined with bordeaux mixture4 ,it may sometimes be necessary to use a greater strength of the poison1 particularly on the older 8slugs40 ,the small black flea-beetles riddle the leaves with holes and cause the foliage to die4 ,bordeaux mixture as applied for potato blight protects the plants by making them repellent to the beetles4 ,raspberry1 blackberry1 and dewberry insects4--,the greenish1 spiny larvae of the saw-fly feed on the tender leaves in spring4 ,spray with ,paris green or arsenate of lead1 or apply hellebore4 ,the cane-borer is a grub that burrows down through the canes1 causing them to die4 ,in laying her eggs1 the adult beetle girdles the tip of the cane with a ring of punctures1 causing it to wither and droop4 ,in midsummer1 cut off and destroy the drooping tips4 ,red spider4--,minute reddish mites on the under sides of leaves in greenhouses and sometimes out of doors in dry weather4 ,syringe off the plants with clear water two or three times a week1 taking care not to drench the beds4 ,rose insects4--,the green plant-lice usually work on the buds1 and the yellow leaf-hoppers feed on the leaves4 ,spray1 whenever necessary1 with kerosene emulsion1 diluted with #f parts of water1 or whale-oil or any good soap1 #a lb4 in #e or #f gal4 of water4 ,the rose-chafer is often a most pernicious pest on roses1 grapes1 and other plants4 ,the ungainly1 long-legged1 grayish beetles occur in sandy regions and often swarm into vineyards and destroy the blossoms and foliage4 ,spray thoroughly with arsenate of lead1 #aj lb4 in #ajj gal4 of water4 ,repeat the application if necessary4 7,see under ,rose in ,chap4 ,,viii47 ,san ,jos scale4--,this pernicious scale is nearly circular in outline and about the size of a small pin head1 with a raised center4 ,when abundant1 it forms a crust on the branches and causes small red spots on the fruit4 ,it multiplies with marvelous rapidity1 there being three or four broods annually in ,new ,york1 and each mother scale may give birth to several hundred young4 ,the young are born alive1 and breeding continues until late autumn when all stages are killed by the cold weather except the tiny half-grown black scales1 many of which hibernate safely4 ,spray thoroughly in the fall after the leaves drop1 or early in the spring before growth begins1 with lime-sulfur wash1 or miscible oil #a gal4 in #aj gal4 of water4 ,when badly infested1 make two applications1 one in the fall and another in the spring4 ,in case of large old trees1 #be per cent crude oil emulsion should be applied just as the buds are swelling4 ,in nurseries1 after the trees are dug1 fumigate with hydrocyanic acid gas1 using #a oz4 of potassium cyanide for every #ajj cu4 ft4 of space4 ,continue the fumigation from one-half to three-quarters of an hour4 ,do not fumigate the trees when they are wet1 since the presence of moisture renders them liable to injury4 ,tent-caterpillar4--,the insect hibernates in the egg stage4 ,the eggs are glued in ring-like brownish masses around the smaller twigs1 where they may be easily found and destroyed4 ,the caterpillars appear in early spring1 devour the tender leaves1 and build unsightly nests on the smaller branches4 ,this pest is usually controlled by the treatment recommended for the codlin-moth4 ,destroy the nests by burning or by wiping out when small4 ,often a bad pest on apple trees4 ,violet gall-fly4--,violets grown under glass are often greatly injured by a very small maggot1 which causes the edges of the leaves to curl1 turn yellowish1 and die4 ,the adult is a very minute fly resembling a mosquito4 ,pick off and destroy infested leaves as soon as discovered4 ,fumigation is not advised for this insect or for red-spider4 ,white-fly4--,the minute white-flies are common on greenhouse plants and often in summer on plants about gardens near greenhouses4 ,the nymphs are small greenish1 scale-like insects found on the under side of the leaves2 the adults are minute1 white1 mealy-winged flies4 ,spray with kerosene emulsion or whale-oil soap2 or if infesting cucumbers or tomatoes1 fumigate over night with hydrocyanic acid gas1 using #a oz4 of potassium cyanide to each #ajjj cu4 ft4 of space4 7,see page #ahh47 ,white grubs4--,the large curved white grubs that are so troublesome in lawns and strawberry fields are the larvae of the common ,june beetles4 ,they live in the ground1 feeding on the roots of grasses and weeds4 ,dig out grubs from beneath infested plants4 ,thorough early fall cultivation of land intended for strawberries will destroy many of the pupae4 ,in lawns1 remove the sod1 destroy the grubs1 and make new sward1 when the infestation is bad4 ,treatment for some of the common plant diseases4 ,the following advice 7mostly adapted from ,whetzel and ,stewart7 covers the most frequent types of fungous disease appearing to the home gardener4 ,many other kinds1 however1 will almost certainly attract his attention the first season if he looks closely4 ,the standard remedy is bordeaux mixture2 but because this material discolors the foliage the carbonate of copper is sometimes used instead4 ,the treatments here recommended are for ,new ,york2 but it should not be difficult to apply the dates elsewhere4 ,the gardener must supplement all advice of this character with his own judgment and experience1 and take his own risks4 ,apple scab4--,usually most evident on the fruit1 forming blotches and scabs4 ,spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej or #c-c-ej2 first1 just before the blossoms open2 second1 just as the blossoms fall2 third1 #aj to #ad days after the blossoms fall4 ,the second spraying seems to be the most important4 ,always apply before rains1 not after4 ,asparagus rust4--,the most common and destructive disease of asparagus1 producing reddish or black pustules on the stems and branches4 ,late in the fall1 burn all affected plants4 ,fertilize liberally and cultivate thoroughly4 ,during the cutting season1 permit no plants to mature and cut all wild asparagus plants in vicinity once a week4 ,rust may be partially controlled by spraying with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 containing a sticker of resin-sal-soda soap1 but it is a difficult and expensive operation and probably not profitable except on large acreage4 ,begin spraying after cutting as soon as new shoots are #h to #aj in4 high and repeat once or twice a week until about ,september #ae4 ,dusting with sulfur has proved effective in ,california4 ,cabbage and cauliflower diseases4--,black-rot is a bacterial disease2 the plants drop their leaves and fail to head4 ,practice crop rotation2 soak seed #ae min4 in a solution made by dissolving one corrosive sublimate tablet in a pint of water4 ,tablets may be bought at drug stores4 ,club-root or club-foot is a well-known disease4 ,the parasite lives in the soil4 ,practice crop rotation4 ,set only healthy plants4 ,do not use manure containing cabbage refuse4 ,if necessary to use infested land1 apply good stone lime1 #b to #e tons per acre4 ,apply at least as early as the autumn before planting2 two to four years is better4 ,lime the seed-bed in same way4 ,carnation rust4--,this disease may be recognized by the brown1 powdery pustules on the stem and leaves4 ,plant only the varieties least affected by it4 ,take cuttings only from healthy plants4 ,spray 7in the field1 once a week2 in the greenhouse1 once in two weeks7 with copper sulfate1 #a lb4 to #bj gal4 of water4 ,keep the greenhouse air as dry and cool as is compatible with good growth4 ,keep the foliage free from moisture4 ,train the plants so as to secure a free circulation of air among them4 ,chestnut4--,the bark disease of chestnut has become very serious in southeastern ,new ,york1 causing the bark to sink and die and killing the tree4 ,cutting out the diseased places and treating aseptically may be useful in light cases1 but badly infected trees are incurable1 in the present state of our knowledge4 ,inspection of nursery stock and burning of affected trees is the only procedure now to be recommended4 ,the disease is reported in ,new ,england and western ,new ,york4 ,chrysanthemum leaf-spot4--,spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 every ten days or often enough to protect new foliage4 ,ammoniacal copper carbonate may be used1 but it is not so effective4 ,cucumber diseases4--8,wilt0 is a disease caused by bacteria that are distributed chiefly by striped cucumber beetles4 ,destroy the beetles or drive them away by thorough spraying with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,gather and destroy all wilted leaves and plants4 ,the most that can be expected is that the loss may be slightly reduced4 ,downy mildew is a serious fungous disease of the cucumber known among growers as 8the blight40 ,the leaves become mottled with yellow1 show dead spots1 and then dry up4 ,spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,begin spraying when the plants begin to run1 and repeat every #aj to #ad days throughout the season4 ,currant diseases4--,leaf-spots and anthracnose are caused by two or three different fungi4 ,the leaves become spotted1 turn yellow1 and fall prematurely4 ,they may be controlled by three to five sprayings with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 but it is doubtful whether the diseases are sufficiently destructive on the average to warrant so much expense4 ,gooseberry powdery mildew4--,the fruit and leaves are covered with a dirty white growth of fungus4 ,in setting a new plantation1 choose a site where the land is well underdrained and where there is a good circulation of air4 ,cut away drooping branches4 ,keep the ground underneath free from weeds4 ,spray with potassium sulfide1 #a oz4 to #b gal42 begin when the buds are breaking and repeat every #g to #aj days until the fruit is gathered4 ,powdery mildew is very destructive to the ,european varieties4 ,grape black-rot4--,remove all 8mummies0 that cling to the arms at trimming time4 ,plow early1 turning under all old mummies and diseased leaves4 ,rake all refuse under the vine into the last furrow and cover with the grape hoe4 ,this cannot be too thoroughly done4 ,the disease is favored by wet weather and weeds or grass in the vineyard4 ,use surface cultivation and keep down all weeds and grass4 ,keep the vines well sprouted2 if necessary sprout twice4 ,spray with bordeaux mixture1 #e-e-ej1 until the middle of ,july1 after that with ammoniacal copper carbonate4 ,the number of sprayings will vary with the season4 ,make the first application when the third leaf shows4 ,infections take place with each rain1 and occur throughout the growing season4 ,the foliage should be protected by a coating of the spray before every rain4 ,the new growth especially should be well sprayed4 ,hollyhock rust4--,fig4 #bab4 ,eradicate the wild mallow 7,malva rotundifolia74 ,remove all hollyhock leaves as soon as they show signs of rust4 ,spray several times with bordeaux mixture1 taking care to cover both sides of leaves4 ,lettuce drop or rot4--,this is a fungous disease often destructive in greenhouses1 discovered by the sudden wilting of the plants4 ,it is completely controlled by steam sterilization of the soil to the depth of two inches or more4 ,if it is not feasible to sterilize the soil1 use fresh soil for every crop of lettuce4 ,muskmelon diseases4--8,blight0 is a very troublesome disease4 ,the leaves show angular dead-brown spots1 then dry up and die2 the fruit often fails to ripen and lacks flavor4 ,it is caused by the same fungus as is the downy mildew of cucumbers4 ,while bordeaux has proved effective in controlling the downy mildew on cucumbers1 it seems to be of little value in lessening the same disease on melons4 8,wilt0 is the same as the wilt of cucumbers2 same treatment is given4 ,peach diseases4--,brown-rot is difficult to control4 ,plant resistant varieties4 ,prune the trees so as to let in sunlight and air4 ,thin the fruit well4 ,as often as possible pick and destroy all rotten fruits4 ,in the fall destroy all remaining fruits4 ,spray with bordeaux mixture before the buds break1 or self-boiled lime-sulfur4 ,leaf-curl is a disease in which the leaves become swollen and distorted in spring and drop during ,june and ,july 7,fig4 #bac74 ,elberta is an especially susceptible variety4 ,easily and completely controlled by spraying the trees once1 before the buds swell1 with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 or with the lime-sulfur mixtures used for ,san ,jos scale4 ,black-spot or scab often proves troublesome in wet seasons and particularly in damp or sheltered situations4 ,while this disease attacks the twigs and leaves1 it is most conspicuous and injurious on the fruit1 where it appears as dark spots or blotches4 ,in severe attacks the fruit cracks4 ,in the treatment of this disease it is of prime importance to secure a free circulation of air about the fruit4 ,accomplish this by avoiding low sites1 by pruning1 and by removal of windbreaks4 ,spray as for leaf-curl and follow with two applications of potassium sulfide1 #a oz4 to #c gal41 the first being made soon after the fruit is set and the second when the fruit is half grown4 ,yellows is a so-called 8physiological disease40 ,cause unknown4 ,contagious1 and serious in some localities4 ,known by the premature ripening of the fruit1 by red streaks and spots in the flesh1 and by the peculiar clusters of sickly1 yellowish shoots that appear on the limbs here and there 7,fig4 #bae74 ,dig out and burn diseased trees as soon as discovered4 ,pear diseases4--,fire-blight kills the twigs and branches1 on which the leaves suddenly blacken and die but do not fall4 ,it also produces cankers on the trunk and large limbs4 ,prune out blighted branches as soon as discovered1 cutting #f to #h in4 below the lowest evidences of the disease4 ,clean out limb and body cankers4 ,disinfect all large wounds with corrosive sublimate solution1 #a to #ajjj1 and cover with coat of paint4 ,avoid forcing a rapid1 succulent growth4 ,plant the varieties least affected4 ,pear scab is very similar to apple scab4 ,it is very destructive to some varieties1 as1 for example1 ,flemish ,beauty and ,seckel4 ,spray three times with bordeaux1 as for apple scab4 ,plum and cherry diseases4--,black-knot is a fungus1 the spores of which are carried from tree to tree by the wind and thus spread the infection4 ,cut out and burn all knots as soon as discovered4 ,see that the knots are removed from all plum and cherry trees in the neighborhood4 ,leaf-spot is a disease in which the leaves become covered with reddish or brown spots and fall prematurely 7,fig4 #baa72 badly affected trees winterkill4 ,often1 the dead spots drop out1 leaving clear-cut holes4 ,spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,for cherries1 make four applications3 first1 just before blossoms open2 second1 when fruit is free from calyx2 third1 two weeks later2 fourth1 two weeks after third4 ,in plums it may be controlled by two or three applications of bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,make the first one about ten days after the blossoms fall and the others at intervals of about three weeks4 ,this applies to ,european varieties4 ,japan plums should not be sprayed with bordeaux4 ,potato diseases4--,there are different kinds of potato blight and rot4 ,the most important are early blight and late blight--both fungous diseases4 ,early blight affects only the foliage4 ,late blight kills the foliage and often rots the tubers4 ,two serious troubles often mistaken for blight are3 7#a7 ,tip burn1 the browning of the tips and margins of the leaves due to dry weather2 and 7#b7 flea-beetle injury1 in which the leaves show numerous small holes and then dry up4 ,the loss from blight and flea-beetles is enormous--often1 one-fourth to one-half the crop4 ,for blight-rot and flea-beetles spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,begin when the plants are #f to #h in4 high and repeat every #aj to #ad days during the season1 making #e to #g applications in all4 ,use #dj to #ajj gal4 per acre at each application4 ,under conditions exceptionally favorable to blight it will pay to spray as often as once a week4 ,scab is caused by a fungus that attacks the surface of the tubers4 ,it is carried over on diseased tubers and in the soil4 ,in general1 when land becomes badly infested with scab1 it is best to plant it with other crops for several years4 7,see page #aij47 ,raspberry diseases4--,anthracnose is very destructive to black raspberries1 but not often injurious to the red varieties4 ,it is detected by the circular or elliptical gray scab-like spots on the canes4 ,avoid taking young plants from diseased plantations4 ,remove all old canes and badly diseased new ones as soon as the fruit is gathered4 ,although spraying with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 will control the malady1 the treatment may not be profitable4 ,if spraying seems advisable1 make the first application when the new canes are #f to #h in4 high and follow with two more at intervals of #aj to #ad days4 ,cane-blight or wilt is a destructive disease affecting both red and black varieties4 ,fruiting canes suddenly wilt and die4 ,it is caused by a fungus which attacks the cane at some point and kills the bark and wood1 thereby causing the parts above to die4 ,no successful treatment is known4 ,in making new settings1 use only plants from healthy plantations4 ,remove the fruiting canes as soon as the fruit is gathered4 ,red-rust is often serious on black varieties1 but does not affect red ones4 ,it is the same as red rust of blackberry4 ,dig up and destroy affected plants4 ,rose diseases4--,black leaf-spot is one of the commonest diseases of the rose4 ,it causes the leaves to fall prematurely4 ,spray with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 beginning as soon as the first spots appear on the leaves4 ,two or three applications at intervals of ten days will very largely control the disease4 ,ammoniacal copper carbonate may be used on roses grown under glass4 ,apply once a week until disease is under control4 ,for mildew on greenhouse roses1 keep the steam pipes painted with a paste made of equal parts lime and sulfur mixed up with water4 ,the mildew is a surface-feeding fungus and is killed by the fumes of the sulfur4 ,outdoor roses that become infested with the mildew may be dusted with sulfur1 or sprayed with a solution of potassium sulfide1 #a oz4 to #c gal4 water4 ,spray or dust with the sulfur two or three times at intervals of a week or ten days4 ,strawberry leaf-spot4--,the most common and serious fungous disease of the strawberry2 also called rust and leaf-blight4 ,the leaves show spots which at first are of a deep purple color1 but later enlarge and the center becomes gray or nearly white4 ,the fungus passes the winter in the old diseased leaves that fall to the ground4 ,in setting new plantations1 remove all diseased leaves from the plants before they are taken to the field4 ,soon after growth begins1 spray the newly set plants with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej4 ,make three or four additional sprayings during the season4 ,the following spring1 spray just before blossoming and again #aj to #ad days later4 ,if the bed is to be fruited a second time1 mow the plants and burn over the beds as soon as the fruit is gathered4 ,plant resistant varieties4 ,tomato leaf-spot4--,the distinguishing character of this disease is that it begins on the lower leaves and works towards the top1 killing the foliage as it goes4 ,it is controlled with difficulty because it is carried over winter in the diseased leaves and tops that fall to the ground4 ,when setting out plants1 pinch off all the lower leaves that touch the ground2 also any leaves that show suspicious-looking dead-spots4 ,the trouble often starts in the seed-bed4 ,spray plants very thoroughly with bordeaux1 #e-e-ej1 beginning as soon as the plants are set out4 ,stake and tie up for greater convenience in spraying4 ,spray under side of the leaves4 ,spray every week or ten days4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,ornamental ,,plants--,,the ,,classes ,,of ,,plants1 ,,and ,,lists ,in choosing the kinds of plants for the main grounds the gardener should carefully distinguish two categories1--those plants to compose the structural masses and design of the place1 and those that are to be used for mere ornament4 ,the chief merits to be sought in the former are good foliage1 pleasing form and habit1 shades of green1 and color of winter twigs4 ,the merits of the latter lie chiefly in flowers or colored foliage4 ,each of these categories should be again divided4 ,of plants for the main design1 there might be discussion of trees for a windbreak1 of trees for shade2 of shrubs for screens or heavy plantings1 for the lighter side plantings1 and for incidental masses about the buildings or on the lawn2 and perhaps also of vines for porches and arbors1 of evergreens1 of hedges1 and of the heavier herbaceous masses4 ,plants used for mere embellishment or ornamentation may be ranged again into categories for permanent herbaceous borders1 for display beds1 ribbon edgings1 annuals for temporary effects1 foliage beds1 plants for adding color and emphasis to the shrubbery masses1 plants desired to be grown as single specimens or as curiosities1 and plants for porch-boxes and window-gardens4 ,having now briefly suggested the uses of the plants1 we shall proceed to discuss them in reference to the making of home grounds4 ,this chapter contains a brief consideration of3 ,planting for immediate effect1 ,the use of 8foliage0 trees and shrubs1 ,windbreaks and screens1 ,the making of hedges1 ,the borders1 ,the flower-beds1 ,aquatic and bog plants1 ,rockeries and alpine plants2 and then it runs into nine sub-chapters1 as follows3-- #a4 ,plants for carpet-beds1 p4 #bcd2 #b4 ,the annual plants1 p4 #bda2 #c4 ,hardy herbaceous perennials1 p4 #bfj2 #d4 ,bulbs and tubers1 p4 #bha2 #e4 ,the shrubbery1 p4 #bij2 #f4 ,climbing plants1 p4 #cjg2 #g4 ,trees for lawns and streets1 p4 #cai2 #h4 ,coniferous evergreen trees and shrubs1 p4 #cca2 #i4 ,window-gardens1 p4 #ccf4 ,and then1 in ,chapter ,,viii1 the particular cultures of plants needing special care are briefly discussed4 ,planting for immediate effect4 ,it is always legitimate1 and1 in fact1 desirable1 to plant for immediate effect4 ,one may plant very thickly of rapid-growing trees and shrubs for this purpose4 ,it is a fact1 however1 that very rapid-growing trees usually lack strong or artistic character4 ,other and better trees should be planted with them and the featureless kinds be gradually removed4 7,page #da47 ,the effect of a new place may be greatly heightened by a dexterous use of annuals and other herbaceous stuff in the shrub plantations4 ,until the shrubbery covers the ground1 temporary plants may be grown among them4 ,subtropical beds may give a very desirable temporary finish to places that are pretentious enough to make them seem in keeping4 ,very rough1 hard1 sterile1 and stony banks may sometimes be covered with coltsfoot 7,tussilago ,farfara71 sacaline1 ,rubus cratgifotius1 comfrey1 and various wild growths that persist in similar places in the neighborhood4 ,however much the planter may plan for immediate effects1 the beauty of trees and shrubs comes with maturity and age1 and this beauty is often delayed1 or even obliterated1 by shearing and excessive heading-back4 ,at first1 bushes are stiff and erect1 but when they attain their full character1 they usually droop or roll over to meet the sward4 ,some bushes make mounds of green much sooner than others that may even be closely related4 ,thus the common yellow-bell 7,forsythia virdissima7 remains stiff and hard for some years1 whereas ,f4 suspensa makes a rolling heap of green in two or three years4 ,quick informal effects can also be secured by the use of ,hall's ,japanese honeysuckle 7,lonicera ,halliana of nurserymen71 an evergreen in the ,south1 and holding its leaves until midwinter or later in the ,north4 ,it may be used for covering a rock1 a pile of rubbish1 a stump 7,fig4 #bcf71 to fill a corner against a foundation1 or it may be trained on a porch or arbor4 ,there is a form with yellow-veined leaves4 ,rosa ,wichuraiana and some of the dewberries are useful for covering rough places4 ,many vines that are commonly used for porches and arbors may be employed also for the borders of shrub-plantations and for covering rough banks and rocks1 quickly giving a finish to the cruder parts of the place4 ,such vines1 among others1 are various kinds of clematis1 ,virginia creeper1 actinidia1 akebia1 trumpet creeper1 periploca1 bitter-sweet 7,solanum ,dulcamara71 wax-work 7,celastrus scandens74 ,of course1 very good immediate effects may be secured by very close planting 7page #bbb71 but the homesteader must not neglect to thin out these plantations when the time comes4 ,illustration3 ,fig #bcf4 ,stump covered with ,japanese honeysuckle4 ,the use of 8foliage0 trees and shrubs4 ,there is always a temptation to use too freely of the trees and shrubs that are characterized by abnormal or striking foliage4 ,the subject is discussed in its artistic bearings on pages #dj and #da4 ,as a rule1 the yellow-leaved1 spotted-leaved1 variegated1 and other abnormal 8foliage0 plants are less hardy and less reliable than the green-leaved or 8natural0 forms4 ,they usually require more care1 if they are kept in vigorous and seemly condition4 ,some marked exceptions to this are noted in the lists of trees and shrubs4 ,there are some plants of striking foliage1 however1 that are perfectly reliable1 but they are usually not of the 8horticultural variety0 class1 their characteristics being normal to the species4 ,some of the silver or white-leaved poplars1 for example1 produce the most striking contrasts of foliage1 particularly if set near darker trees1 and for this reason they are much desired by many planters4 ,bolle's poplar 7,populus ,bolleana of the nurseries7 is one of the best of these trees4 ,its habit is something like that of the ,lombardy4 ,the upper surface of the deeply lobed leaves is dark dull green1 while the under surface is almost snowy white4 ,such emphatic trees as this should generally be partially obscured by planting them amongst other trees1 so that they appear to mix with the other foliage2 or else they should be seen at some distance4 ,other varieties of the common white poplar or abele are occasionally useful1 although most of them sprout badly and may become a nuisance4 ,but the planting of these immodest trees is so likely to be overdone that one scarcely dare recommend them1 although1 when skillfully used1 they may be made to produce most excellent effects4 ,if any reader has a particular fondness for trees of this class 7or any others with woolly-white foliage7 and if he has only an ordinary city lot or farm-yard to ornament1 let him reduce his desires to a single tree1 and then if that tree is planted in the interior of a group of other trees1 no harm can result4 ,windbreaks and screens4 ,a shelter-belt for the home grounds is often placed at the extreme edge of the home yard1 toward the heaviest or prevailing wind4 ,it may be a dense plantation of evergreens4 ,if so1 the ,norway spruce is one of the best for general purposes in the northeastern states4 ,for a lower belt the arbor vitae is excellent4 ,some of the pines1 as the ,scotch or ,austrian1 and the native white pine1 are also to be advised1 particularly if the belt is at some distance from the residence4 ,as a rule1 the coarser the tree the farther it should be placed from the house4 ,the common deciduous trees of the region 7as elm1 maple1 box-elder7 may be planted in a row or rows for windbreaks4 ,good temporary shelter belts are secured by poplars and large willows4 ,on the prairies and far north the laurel willow 7,salix laurifolia of the trade7 is excellent4 ,where snow blows very badly1 two lines of breaks may be planted three to six rods apart1 so that the inclosed lane may catch the drift2 this method is employed in prairie regions4 ,persons may desire to use the break as a screen to hide undesirable objects4 ,if these objects are of a permanent character1 as a barn or an unkempt property1 evergreen trees should be used4 ,for temporary screens1 any of the very large-growing herbaceous plants may be employed4 ,very excellent subjects are sunflowers1 the large-growing nicotianas1 castor beans1 large varieties of ,indian corn1 and plants of like growth4 ,excellent screens are sometimes made with vines on a trellis4 ,very efficient summer screens may be made with ailanthus1 paulownia1 basswood1 sumac1 and other plants that tend to throw up very vigorous shoots from the base4 ,after these plants have been set a year or two1 they are cut back nearly to the ground in winter or spring1 and strong shoots are thrown up with great luxuriance during the summer1 giving a dense screen and presenting a semi-tropical effect4 ,for such purposes1 the roots should be planted only two or three feet apart4 ,if1 after a time1 the roots become so crowded that the shoots are weak1 some of the plants may be removed4 ,top-dressing the area every fall with manure will tend to make the ground rich enough to afford a very heavy summer growth4 7,see ,fig4 #ej47 ,the making of hedges4 ,hedges are much less used in this country than in ,europe1 and for several reasons4 ,our climate is dry1 and most hedges do not thrive so well here as there2 labor is high-priced1 and the trimming is therefore likely to be neglected2 our farms are so large that much fencing is required2 timber and wire are cheaper than live hedges4 ,however1 hedges are used with good effect about the home grounds4 ,in order to secure a good ornamental hedge1 it is necessary to have a thoroughly well-prepared deep soil1 to set the plants close1 and to shear them at least twice every year4 ,for evergreen hedges the most serviceable plant in general is the arbor vitae4 ,the plants may be set at distances of #a to #b-a_/b feet apart4 ,for coarser hedges1 the ,norway spruce is used2 and for still coarser ones1 the ,scotch and ,austrian pines4 ,in ,california the staple conifer hedge is made of ,monterey cypress4 ,for choice evergreen hedges about the grounds1 particularly outside the northern states1 some of the retinosporas are very useful4 ,one of the most satisfactory of all coniferous plants for hedges is the common hemlock1 which stands shearing well and makes a very soft and pleasing mass4 ,the plants may be set from #b to #d feet apart4 ,other plants that hold their leaves and are good for hedges are the common box and the privets4 ,box hedges are the best for very low borders about walks and flower-beds4 ,the dwarf variety can be kept down to a height of #f inches to a foot for any number of years4 ,the larger-growing varieties make excellent hedges #c1 #d1 and #e feet high4 ,the ordinary privet or prim holds its leaves well into winter in the ,north4 ,the so-called ,californian privet holds its leaves rather longer and stands better along the seashore4 ,the mahonia makes a low1 loose hedge or edging in locations where it will thrive4 ,pyracantha is also to be recommended where hardy4 ,in the southern states1 nothing is better than ,citrus trifoliata4 ,this is hardy even farther north than ,washington in very favored localities4 ,in the ,south1 ,prunus ,caroliniana is also used for hedges4 ,saltbush hedges are frequent in ,california4 ,for hedges of deciduous plants1 the most common species are the buckthorn1 ,japan quince1 the ,european hawthorn and other thorns1 tamarix1 osage orange1 honey locust1 and various kinds of roses4 ,osage orange has been the most used for farm hedges4 ,for home grounds1 ,berberis ,thunbergii makes an excellent free hedge2 also ,spira ,thunbergii and other spireas4 ,the common ,rosa rugosa makes an attractive free hedge4 ,hedges should be trimmed the year after they are set1 although they should not be sheared very closely until they reach the desired or permanent height4 ,thereafter they should be cut into the desired form in spring or fall1 or both4 ,if the plants are allowed to grow for a year or two without trimming1 they lose their lower leaves and become open and straggly4 ,osage orange and some other plants are plashed2 that is1 the plants are set at an angle rather than perpendicularly1 and they are wired together obliquely in such a way that they make an impenetrable barrier just above the surface of the ground4 ,for closely clipped or sheared hedges1 the best plants are arbor vitae1 retinospora1 hemlock1 ,norway spruce1 privet1 buckthorn1 box1 osage orange1 pyracantha1 ,citrus trifoliata4 ,the pyracantha 7,pyracantha coccinea7 is an evergreen shrub allied to cratgus1 of which it is sometimes considered to be a species4 ,it is also sometimes referred to cotoneaster4 ,although hardy in protected places in the ,north1 it is essentially a bush of the middle and southern latitudes1 and of ,california4 ,it has persistent foliage and red berries4 ,var4 ,lalandi has orange-red berries4 ,the borders4 ,the word 8border0 is used to designate the heavy or continuous planting about the boundaries of a place1 or along the walks and drives1 or against the buildings1 in distinction from planting on the lawn or in the interior spaces4 ,a border receives different designations1 depending on the kinds of plants that are grown therein3 it may be a shrub-border1 a flower-border1 a hardy border for native and other plants1 a vine-border1 and the like4 ,there are three rules for the choosing of plants for a hardy border3 choose 7#a7 those that you like best1 7#b7 those that are adapted to the climate and soil1 7#c7 those that are in place or in keeping with that part of the grounds4 ,the earth for the border should be fertile4 ,the whole ground should be plowed or spaded and the plants set irregularly in the space2 or the back row may be set in a line4 ,if the border is composed of shrubs1 and is large1 a horse cultivator may be run in and out between the plants for the first two or three years1 since the shrubs will be set #b to #d feet apart4 ,ordinarily1 however1 the tilling is done with hand tools4 ,after the plants are once established and the border is filled1 it is best to dig up as little as possible1 for the digging disturbs the roots and breaks the crowns4 ,it is usually best to pull out the weeds and give the border a top-dressing each fall of well-rotted manure4 ,if the ground is not very rich1 an application of ashes or some commercial fertilizer may be given from time to time4 ,the border should be planted so thick as to allow the plants to run together1 thereby giving one continuous effect4 ,most shrubs should be set #c feet apart4 ,things as large as lilacs may go #d feet and sometimes even more4 ,common herbaceous perennials1 as bleeding heart1 delphiniums1 hollyhocks1 and the like1 should go from #ab to #ah inches4 ,on the front edge of the border is a very excellent place for annual and tender flowering plants4 ,here1 for example1 one may make a fringe of asters1 geraniums1 coleus1 or anything else he may choose4 7,chap4 ,,ii47 ,into the heavy borders about the boundaries of the place the autumn leaves will drift and afford an excellent mulch4 ,if these borders are planted with shrubs1 the leaves may be left there to decay1 and not be raked off in the spring4 ,the general outline of the border facing the lawn should be more or less wavy or irregular1 particularly if it is on the boundary of the place4 ,alongside a walk or drive the margins may follow the general directions of the walk or drive4 ,in making borders of perennial flowers the most satisfactory results are secured if a large clump of each kind or variety is grown4 ,the herbaceous border is one of the most flexible parts of grounds1 since it has no regular or formal design4 ,allow ample space for each perennial root1--often as much as three or four square feet1--and then if the space is not filled the first year or two1 scatter over the area seeds of poppies1 sweet peas1 asters1 gilias1 alyssum1 or other annuals4 ,figures #bcg-bci1 from ,long 78,popular ,gardening10 i41 #ag1 #ah71 suggest methods of making such borders4 ,they are on a scale of ten feet to the inch4 ,the entire surface is tilled1 and the irregular diagrams designate the sizes of the clumps4 ,the diagrams containing no names are to be filled with bulbs1 annuals1 and tender plants1 if desired4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bcg4 ,suggestions for a border of spring flowers4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bch4 ,a border of summer-flowering herbs4 ,it must not be supposed1 however1 that one cannot have a border unless he has wide marginal spaces about his grounds4 ,it is surprising how many things one can grow in an old fence4 ,perennials that grow in fence-rows in fields ought also to grow in similar boundaries on the home grounds4 ,some of garden annuals will thrive alongside a fence1 particularly if the fence does not shut off too much light2 and many vines 7both perennial and annual7 will cover it effectively4 ,among annuals1 the large-seeded1 quick-germinating1 rapid-growing kinds will do best4 ,sunflower1 sweet pea1 morning glory1 ,japanese hop1 zinnia1 marigold1 amaranths1 four o'clock1 are some of the kinds that will hold their own4 ,if the effort is made to grow plants in such places1 it is important to give them all the advantage possible early in the season1 so that they will get well ahead of the grass and weeds4 ,spade up the ground all you can4 ,add a little quick-acting fertilizer4 ,it is best to start the plants in pots or small boxes1 so that they will be in advance of the weeds when they are set out4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bci4 ,an autumn-flowering border4 ,the flower-beds4 ,we must remember to distinguish two uses of flowers1--their part in a landscape design or picture1 and their part in a bed or separate garden for bloom4 ,we now consider the flower-bed proper2 and we include in the flower-bed such 8foliage0 plants as coleus1 celosia1 croton1 and canna1 although the main object of the flower-bed is to produce an abundance of flowers4 ,in making a flower-bed1 see that the ground is well drained2 that the subsoil is deep2 that the land is in a mellow and friable condition1 and that it is fertile4 ,each fall it may have a mulch of rotted manure or of leafmold1 which may be spaded under deeply in the spring2 or the land may be spaded and left rough in the fall1 which is a good practice when the soil has much clay4 ,make the flower-beds as broad as possible1 so that the roots of the grass running in from either side will not meet beneath the flowers and rob the beds of food and moisture4 ,it is well to add a little commercial fertilizer each fall or spring4 ,although it is well to emphasize making the ground fertile1 it must be remembered 7as indicated at the close of ,chap4 ,,iv7 that it can easily be made too rich for such plants as we desire to keep within certain stature and for those from which we wish an abundance of bloom in a short season4 ,in over-rich ground1 nasturtiums and some other plants not only 8run to vine10 but the bloom lacks brilliancy4 ,when it is the leaf and vegetation that is wanted1 there is little danger of making the ground too rich1 although it is possible to make the plant so succulent and sappy that it becomes sprawly or breaks down2 and other plants may be crippled and crowded out4 ,there are various styles of flower-planting4 ,the mixed border1 planted with various hardy plants1 and extending along either side of the garden-walk1 was popular years ago2 and1 with modifications in position1 form1 and extent1 has been a popular attachment to home grounds during the past few years4 ,to produce the best effects the plants should be set close enough to cover the ground2 and the selection should be such as to afford a continuity of bloom4 ,the mixed flower-bed may contain only tender summer-blooming plants1 in which case the bed1 made up mostly of annuals1 does not purport to express the entire season4 ,in distinction from the mixed or non-homogeneous flowerbed are the various forms of 8bedding10 in which plants are massed for the purpose of making a connected and homogeneous bold display of form or color4 ,the bedding may be for the purpose of producing a strong effect of white1 of blue1 or of red2 or of ribbon-like lines and edgings2 or of luxurious and tropical expression2 or to display boldly the features of a particular plant1 as the tulip1 the hyacinth1 the chrysanthemum4 ,in ribbon-bedding1 flowering or foliage plants are arranged in ribbon-like lines of harmoniously contrasting colors1 commonly accompanying walks or drives1 but also suitable for marking limits1 or for the side borders4 ,in such beds1 as well as the others1 the tallest plants will be placed at the back1 if the bed is to be seen from one side only1 and the lowest at the front4 ,if it is to be seen from both sides1 then the tallest will stand in the center4 ,a modification of the ribbon-line1 bringing the contrasting colors together into masses forming circles or other patterns1 is known as 8massing10 or 8massing in color10 and sometimes is spoken of as 8carpet-bedding40 ,carpet-bedding1 however1 belongs more properly to a style of bedding in which plants of dense1 low1 spreading habit--chiefly foliage plants1 with leaves of different forms and colors--are planted in patterns not unlike carpets or rugs4 ,it is often necessary to keep the plants sheared into limits4 ,carpet-bedding is such a specialized form of plant-growing that we shall treat of it separately4 ,beds containing the large foliage plants1 for producing tropical effects1 are composed1 in the main1 of subjects that are allowed to develop naturally4 ,in the lower and more orderly massing1 the plants are arranged not only in circles and patterns according to habit and height1 but the selection is such that some or all may be kept within proper limits by pinching or trimming4 ,circles or masses composed of flowering plants usually cannot be cut back at the top1 so that the habit of the plants must be known before planting2 and the plants must be placed in parts of the bed where trimming will not be necessary4 ,they may be clipped at the sides1 however1 in case the branches or leaves of one mass or line in the pattern grow beyond their proper bounds4 ,the numbers of good annuals and perennials that may be used in flower-beds are now very large1 and one may have a wide choice4 ,various lists from which one may choose are given at the end of this chapter2 but special comment may be made on those most suitable for bedding1 and in its modification in ribbon-work and sub-tropical massing4 ,bedding effects4 ,bedding is ordinarily a temporary species of planting2 that is1 the bed is filled anew each year4 ,however1 the term may be used to designate a permanent plantation in which the plants are heavily massed so as to give one continuous or emphatic display of form or color4 ,some of the best permanent bedding masses are made of the various hardy ornamental grasses1 as eulalias1 arundo1 and the like4 ,the color effects in bedding may be secured with flowers or with foliage4 ,summer bedding is often made by perennial plants that are carried over from the preceding year1 or better1 that are propagated for that particular purpose in ,february and ,march4 ,such plants as geranium1 coleus1 alyssum1 scarlet salvia1 ageratum1 and heliotrope may be used for these beds4 ,it is a common practice to use geranium plants which are in bloom during the winter for bedding out during the summer1 but such plants are tall and ungainly in form and have expended the greater part of their energies4 ,it is better to propagate new plants by taking cuttings or slips late in the winter and setting out young fresh vigorous subjects4 7,page #cj47 ,some bedding is very temporary in its effect4 ,especially is this true of spring bedding1 in which the subjects are tulips1 hyacinths1 crocuses1 or other early-flowering bulbous plants4 ,in this case1 the ground is usually occupied later in the season by other plants4 ,these later plants are commonly annuals1 the seeds of which are sown amongst the bulbs as soon as the season is far enough advanced2 or the annuals may be started in boxes and the plants transplanted amongst the bulbs as soon as the weather is fit4 ,many of the low-growing and compact continuous-flowering annuals are excellent for summer bedding effects4 ,there is a list of some useful material for this purpose on page #bdi4 ,plants for subtropical effects 7,plates ,,iv and ,v74 ,the number of plants suitable to produce a semitropical mass or for the center or back of a group1 which may be readily grown from seed1 is limited4 ,some of the best kinds1 are included below4 ,it will often be worth while to supplement these with others1 to be had at the florists1 such as caladiums1 screw pines1 ,ficus elastica1 araucarias1 ,musa ,ensete1 palms1 dracenas1 crotons1 and others4 ,dahlias and tuberous begonias are also useful4 ,about a pond the papyrus and lotus may be used4 ,practically all the plants used for this style of gardening are liable to injury from winds1 and therefore the beds should be placed in a protected situation4 ,the palms and some other greenhouse stuff do better if partially shaded4 ,in the use of such plants1 there are opportunities for the exercise of the nicest taste4 ,a gross feeder1 as the ricinus1 in the midst of a bed of delicate annuals1 is quite out of place2 and a stately1 royal-looking plant among humbler kinds often makes the latter look common1 when if headed with a chief of their own rank all would appear to the best advantage4 ,some of the plants much used for subtropical bedding1 and often started for that purpose in a greenhouse or coldframe1 are3-- ,acalypha4 ,amarantus4 ,aralia ,sieboldii 7properly ,fatsia ,japonica74 ,bamboos4 ,caladium and colocasia4 ,canna4 ,coxcomb1 particularly the new 8foliage0 kinds4 ,grasses1 as eulalias1 pampas-grass1 pennisetums4 ,gunnera4 ,maize1 the striped form4 ,ricinus or castor bean4 ,scarlet sage4 ,wigandia4 ,aquatic and bog plants4 ,some of the most interesting and ornamental of all plants grow in water and in wet places4 ,it is possible to make an aquatic flower-garden1 and also to use water and bog plants as a part of the landscape work4 ,the essential consideration in the growing of aquatics is the making of the pond4 ,it is possible to grow water-lilies in tubs and half barrels2 but this does not provide sufficient room1 and the plant-food is likely soon to be exhausted and the plants to fail4 ,the small quantity of water is likely also to become foul4 ,the best ponds are those made by good mason work1 for the water does not become muddy by working among the plants4 ,in cement ponds it is best to plant the roots of water-lilies in shallow boxes of earth 7#a foot deep and #c or #d feet square71 or to hold the earth in mason-work compartments4 ,x3 ,a shallow lawn pond1 containing water-lilies1 variegated sweet flag1 iris1 and subtropical bedding at the rear2 fountain covered with parrot's feather 7,myriophyllum proserpinacoides74 ,x3 ,a shallow lawn pond1 containing water-lilies1 variegated sweet flag1 iris1 and subtropical bedding at the rear2 fountain covered with parrot's feather 7,myriophyllum proserpinacoides74 ,usually the ponds or tanks are not cement lined4 ,in some soils a simple excavation will hold water1 but it is usually necessary to give the tank some kind of lining4 ,clay is often used4 ,the bottom and sides of the tank are pounded firm1 and then covered with #c to #f in4 of clay1 which has been kneaded in the hands1 or pounded and worked in a box4 ,handfuls or shovelfuls of the material are thrown forcibly upon the earth1 the operator being careful not to walk upon the work4 ,the clay is smoothed by means of a spade or maul1 and it is then sanded4 ,the water for the lily pond may be derived from a brook1 spring1 well1 or a city water supply4 ,the plants will thrive in any water that is used for domestic purposes4 ,it is important that the water does not become stagnant and a breeding place for mosquitoes4 ,there should be an outlet in the nature of a stand-pipe1 that will control the depth of water4 ,it is not necessary that the water run through the pond or tank rapidly1 but only that a slow change take place4 ,sometimes the water is allowed to enter through a fountain-vase1 in which water plants 7such as parrot's feather7 may be grown 7,plate ,x74 ,in all ponds1 a foot or #ae in4 is sufficient depth of water to stand above the crowns of the plants2 and the greatest depth of water should not be more than #c ft4 for all kinds of water-lilies4 ,half this depth is often sufficient4 ,the soil should be #a to #b ft4 deep1 and very rich4 ,old cow manure may be mixed with rich loam4 ,for the nympheas or water-lilies1 #i to #ab in4 of soil is sufficient4 ,most of the foreign water-lilies are not hardy1 but some of them may be grown with ease if the pond is covered in winter4 ,roots of hardy water-lilies may be planted as soon as the pond is clear of frost1 but the tender kinds 7which are also to be taken up in the fall7 should not be planted till it is time to plant out geraniums4 ,sink the roots into the mud so that they are just buried1 and weight them down with a stone or clod4 ,the nelumbium1 or so-called ,egyptian lotus1 should not be transplanted till growth begins to show in the roots in the spring4 ,the roots are cleaned of decayed parts and covered with about #c in4 of soil4 ,a foot or so of water is sufficient for lotus ponds4 ,the roots of ,egyptian lotus must not freeze4 ,the roots of all water-lily-like plants should be frequently divided and renewed4 ,with hardy aquatics1 the water and roots are allowed to remain naturally over winter4 ,in very cold climates1 the pond is protected by throwing boards over it and covering with hay1 straw1 or evergreen boughs4 ,it is well to supply an additional depth of water as a further protection4 ,as a landscape feature1 the pond should have a background1 or setting1 and its edges should be relieved1 at least on sides and back1 by plantings of bog plants4 ,in permanent ponds of large size1 plantings of willows1 osiers1 and other shrubbery may set off the area to advantage4 ,many of the wild marsh and pond plants are excellent for marginal plantings1 as sedges1 cat-tail1 sweet-flag 7there is a striped-leaved form71 and some of the marsh grasses4 ,japanese iris makes an excellent effect in such places4 ,for summer planting in or near ponds1 caladium1 umbrella-plant1 and papyrus are good4 ,if there is a stream1 8branch10 or 8run0 through the place1 it may often be made one of the most attractive parts of the premises by colonizing bog plants along it4 ,rockeries1 and alpine plants4 ,a rockery is a part of the place in which plants are grown in pockets between rocks4 ,it is a flower-garden conception rather than a landscape feature1 and therefore should be at one side or in the rear of the premises4 ,primarily1 the object of using the rocks is to provide better conditions in which certain plants may grow2 sometimes the rocks are employed to hold a springy or sloughing bank and the plants are used to cover the rocks2 now and then a person wants a rock or a pile of stones in his yard1 as another person would want a piece of statuary or a sheared evergreen4 ,sometimes the rocks are natural to the place and cannot well be removed2 in this case the planning and planting should be such as to make them part of the picture4 ,the real rock-garden1 however1 is a place in which to grow plants4 ,the rocks are secondary4 ,the rocks should not appear to be placed for display4 ,if one is making a collection of rocks1 he is pursuing geology rather than gardening4 ,yet many of the so-called rock-gardens are mere heaps of stones1 placed where it seems to be convenient to pile stones rather than where the stones may improve conditions for the growing of plants4 ,the plants that will naturally grow in rock pockets are those requiring a continuous supply of root moisture and a cool atmosphere4 ,to place a rockery on a sand bank in the burning sun is therefore entirely out of character4 ,rock-garden plants are those of cool woods1 of bogs1 and particularly of high mountains and alpine regions4 ,it is generally understood that a rock-garden is an alpine-garden1 although this is not necessarily so4 ,in this country alpine-gardening is little known1 largely because of our hot dry summers and falls4 ,but if one has a rather cool exposure and an unfailing water supply1 he may succeed fairly well with many of the alpines1 or at least with the semi-alpines4 ,most of the alpines are low and often tufted plants1 and bloom in a spring temperature4 ,in our long hot seasons1 the alpine-garden may be expected to be dormant during much of the summer1 unless other rock-loving plants are colonized in it4 ,alpine plants are of many kinds4 ,they are specially to be found in the genera arenaria1 silene1 diapensia1 primula1 saxifraga1 arabis1 aubrietia1 veronica1 campanula1 gentiana4 ,they comprise a good number of ferns and many little heaths4 ,a good rock-garden of any kind does not have the stones piled merely on the surface2 they are sunken well into the ground and are so placed that there are deep chambers or channels that hold moisture and into which roots may penetrate4 ,the pockets are filled with good fibrous moisture-holding earth1 and often a little sphagnum or other moss is added4 ,it must then be arranged so that the pockets never dry out4 ,rock-gardens are usually failures1 because they violate these very simple elementary principles2 but even when the soil conditions and moisture conditions are good1 the habits of the rock plants must be learned1 and this requires thoughtful experience4 ,rock-gardens cannot be generally recommended4 #a4 ,,plants ,,for ,,carpet-,,beds 7,by ,ernest ,walker7 ,the beauty of the carpet-bed lies largely in its unity1 sharp contrast and harmony of color1 elegance--often simplicity--of design1 nicety of execution1 and the continued distinctness of outline due to scrupulous care4 ,a generous allowance of green-sward on all sides contributes greatly to the general effect1--in fact it is indispensable4 ,whatever place is chosen for the bed1 it should be in a sunny exposure4 ,this1 nor any kind of bed1 should not be planted near large trees1 as their greedy roots will rob the soil not only of its food1 but of moisture4 ,the shade also will be a menace4 ,as the plants stand so thick1 the soil should be well enriched1 and spaded at least a foot deep4 ,in planting1 a space of at least six inches must be left between the outer row of plants and the edge of the grass4 ,the very style of the bed requires that lines be straight1 the curves uniform1 and that they be kept so by the frequent and careful use of the shears4 ,during dry periods watering will be necessary4 ,the beds1 however1 should not be watered in the hot sunshine4 ,foliage plants are most in use1 and are the ones which will prove the most satisfactory in the hands of the inexperienced1 as they submit to severe clipping and are thus more easily managed4 ,the following list will be helpful to the beginner4 ,it embraces a number of the plants in common use for carpet-bedding1 although not all of them4 ,the usual heights are given in inches4 ,this1 of course1 in different soils and under different treatment is more or less a variable quantity4 ,the figures in parentheses suggest in inches suitable distances for planting in the row when immediate effects are expected4 ,a verbena in rich soil will in time cover a circle three feet or more in diameter2 other plants mentioned spread considerably2 but when used in the carpet-bed1 they must be planted close4 ,one cannot wait for them to grow4 ,the aim is to cover the ground at once4 ,although planted thick in the row1 it will be desirable to leave more room between the rows in case of spreading plants like the verbena4 ,most of them1 however1 need little if any more space between the rows than is indicated by the figures given4 ,in the list those plants that bear free clipping are marked with 993 ,lists for carpet-beds4 ,the figure immediately following the name of plant indicates its height1 the figures in parentheses the distance for planting1 in inches4 #a4 ,,low-,,growing ,,plants ,a4 ,,foliage ,,plants4 ,crimson4--99,alternanthera amna spectabilis1 #f 7#d-f74 ,alternanthera paronychioides major1 #e 7#c-f74 ,alternanthera versicolor1 #e 7#c-f74 ,yellow4--,alternanthera aurea nana1 #f 7#d-f74 ,gray1 or whitish4--,echeveria secunda1 glauca1 #a-a_/b 7#c-d74 ,echeveria metallica1 #i 7#f-h74 ,cineraria maritima1 #ae 7#i-ab74 ,sempervivum ,californicum1 #a-a_/b 7#c-d74 ,thymus argenteus1 #f 7#d-f74 ,bronze brown4--,oxalis tropoloides1 #c 7#c-d74 ,variegated 7white and green74--,geranium ,mme4 ,salleroi1 #f 7#f-h74 99,sweet alyssum1 variegated1 #f 7#f-i74 ,b4 ,,flowering ,,plants4 ,scarlet4--,phlox ,drummondii1 ,dwarf1 #f 7#d-f74 ,cuphea platycentra1 ,cigar ,plant1 #f 7#d-f74 ,white4--,sweet alyssum1 ,little ,gem1 #d 7#d-f74 ,sweet alyssum1 common1 #f 7#f-h74 ,phlox ,drummondii1 ,dwarf1 #f 7#d-f74 ,blue4--,lobelia1 ,crystal ,palace1 #f 7#d-f74 ,ageratum1 ,dwarf ,blue1 #f 7#f-h74 #b4 ,,plants ,,of ,,taller ,,growth ,a4 ,,foliage ,,plants4 ,crimson4--99,coleus ,verschaffeltii1 #bd 7#i-ab74 99,achyranthes ,lindeni1 #ah 7#h-ab74 99,achyranthes ,gilsoni1 #ab 7#h-ab74 99,achyranthes ,verschaffeltii1 #ab 7#h-ab74 99,acalypha tricolor1 #ab-ah 7#ab74 ,yellow4--99,coleus1 ,golden ,bedder1 #bd 7#i-ab74 99,achyranthes1 aurea reticulata1 #ab 7#h-ab74 ,golden feverfew 7,pyrethrum parthenifolium aureum71 7#f-h74 ,bronze geranium1 #ab 7#i74 ,silvery white4--,dusty miller 7,centaurea gymnocarpa71 #ab 7#h-ab74 99,santolina ,chamcyparissus incana1 #f-ab 7#f-h74 ,geranium1 ,mountain of ,snow1 #ab 7#f-i74 ,variegated 7white and green74--99,stevia serrata var41 #ab-ah 7#h-ab74 ,phalaris arundinaeca var41 7grass71 #bd 7#d-h74 ,cyperus alternifolius var41 #bd-cj 7#h-ab74 ,bronze4--99,acalypha marginata1 #bd 7#ab74 ,b4 ,,flowering ,,plants4 ,scarlet4--,salvia splendens1 #cf 7#ab-ah74 ,geraniums1 #bd 7#ab74 ,cuphea tricolor 7,c4 ,llavae71 #ah 7#h-ab74 ,dwarf nasturtium 7,tropaeolum71 #ab-ah 7#ab-ah74 ,begonia1 ,vernon1 #ab 7#f-h74 ,verbenas1 #ab 7#f-ab74 ,phlox ,drummondii1 ,dwarf1 #f 7#d-f74 ,white4--,salvia splendens1 ,white-flowered1 #cf 7#ab-ah74 ,geraniums1 #ah-bd 7#ab74 ,lantana1 ,innocence1 #ah-bd 7#h-ab74 ,lantana1 ,queen ,victoria1 #bd 7#h-ab74 ,verbena1 ,snow ,queen1 #ab 7#f-ab74 ,ageratum1 ,white1 #i 7#f-i74 ,phlox ,drummondii1 ,dwarf1 #f 7#d-f74 ,pink4--,petunia1 ,countess of ,ellesmere1 #ah 7#h-ab74 ,lantana1 #bd 7#h-ab74 ,verbena1 ,beauty of ,oxford1 #f 7#h-ab74 ,phlox ,drummondii1 ,dwarf1 #f 7#d-f74 ,yellow4--,dwarf nasturtium1 #ab 7#ab-ah74 ,anthemis coronaria fl4 pl41 #ab 7#f-h74 ,blue4--,ageratum ,mexicanum1 #ab 7#f-h74 ,verbenas1 #f 7#f-ab74 ,heliotrope1 ,queen of ,violets1 #ah 7#ab-ah74 ,in ,fig4 #bdj are shown a few designs suitable for carpet-beds4 ,they are intended merely to be suggestive1 not to be copied precisely4 ,the simple forms and component parts of the more elaborate beds may be arranged into other designs4 ,likewise the arrangement of plants1 which will be mentioned as suitable for making a given pattern1 is only one of many possible combinations4 ,the idea is merely to bring out the design distinctly4 ,to accomplish this it is only necessary to use plants of contrasting color or growth4 ,to illustrate how varied are the arrangements that may be used1 and how easily different effects are produced with a single design1 several different combinations of color for the bed ,no4 #a will be mentioned3 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdj4 ,designs for carpet-beds4 ,no4 #a4--;,arrangement ,a3 ,outside1 ,alternanthera amna spectabilis2 inside1 ,stevia serrata variegata4 ,b3 lobelia1 ,crystal ,palace2 ,mme4 ,salleroi geranium4 ,c3 lobelia1 ,crystal ,palace2 scarlet dwarf phlox4 ,d3 sweet alyssum2 petunia1 ,countess of ,ellesmere4 ,e3 coleus1 ,golden ,bedder2 ,coleus ,verschaffeltii4 ,f3 ,achyranthes ,lindeni2 yellow dwarf nasturtium4 ,no4 #b4--,outside1 red alternanthera2 middle1 dusty miller2 center1 pink geranium4 ,no4 #c4--,outside1 ,alternanthera aurea nana2 middle1 ,alternanthera amna spectabilis2 center1 ,anthemis coronaria4 ,no4 #d1 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h1 #ab may each be filled with a single color1 or given a border of suitable plants if the planter so chooses4 ,no4 #i4--;,ground1 ,alternanthera aurea nana2 center1 ,acalypha tricolor2 black dots1 scarlet geranium4 ,no4 #aj4--;,ground of ,centaurea gymnocarpa2 circle1 ,achyranthes ,lindeni2 cross1 ,golden coleus4 ,no4 #aa4--;,border1 ,oxalis tropoloides2 center1 blue heliotrope1 blue ageratum1 or ,acalypha marginata2 cross about the center1 ,thymus argenteus1 or centaurea2 scallop outside the cross1 blue lobelia2 corners1 inside border1 santolina4 ,designs #ac and #ad are1 in character1 somewhat in the style of a parterre2 but instead of the intervening spaces in the bed being ordinary walks they are of grass4 ,such beds are of a useful type1 because they may be made large and yet be executed with a comparatively small number of plants4 ,they are especially suitable for the center of an open plot of lawn with definite formal boundaries on all sides1 such as walks or drives4 ,whether they are to be composed of tall-growing or of low-growing plants will depend upon the distance they are to be from the observer4 ,for a moderate-sized plot the following plants might be used3-- ,no4 #ac4--;,border1 red alternanthera2 second row1 dwarf orange or yellow nasturtium2 third row1 ,achyranthes ,gilsoni1 or ,acalypha tricolor2 central square1 scarlet geraniums1 with a border of ,centaurea gymnocarpa2 intervening spaces1 grass4 ,instead of the square of geraniums1 a vase might be substituted1 or a clump of ,salvia splendens4 ,no4 #ad4--;,composite beds like this and the former are always suggestive4 ,they contain various features which may readily be recombined into other patterns4 ,sometimes it may be convenient to use only portions of the design4 ,the reader should feel that no arrangement is arbitrary1 but merely a suggestion that he may use with the utmost freedom1 only keeping harmony in view4 ,for ,no4 #ad1 the following may be an acceptable planting arrangement3 ,border1 ,mme4 ,salleroi geranium2 small dots1 dwarf scarlet tropeolum2 diamonds1 blue lobelia2 crescents1 ,stevia serrata variegata2 inner border1 crimson achyranthes or coleus2 loops1 ,centaurea gymnocarpa2 wedge-shaped portions1 scarlet geranium4 ,no4 #ae4--,suitable for a corner4 ,border1 red alternanthera2 second row1 ,alternanthera aurea nana2 third row1 red alternanthera2 center1 ,echeveria ,californica4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bda4 ,carpet-bed for a bay or recession in the border planting4 ,no4 #af--;,border1 crimson alternanthera 7another border of yellow alternanthera might be placed inside of this72 ground1 ,echeveria secunda glauca2 inner border1 ,oxalis tropoloides2 center1 ,alternanthera aurea nana4 ,or1 inner border1 ,echeveria ,californica2 center1 crimson alternanthera4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdb4 ,another circular carpet-bed4 ,no4 #ag4--;,another bed intended to fill an angle4 ,its curved side will also fit it for use with a circular design4 ,border1 dwarf blue ageratum2 circle1 blue lobelia2 ground 7#c parts71 crimson alternanthera4 ,other carpet or mosaic beds 7after ,long71 with the plants indicated1 are shown in ,figs4 #bda1 #bdb4 #b4 ,,the ,,annual ,,plants ,the annual flowers of the seedsmen are those that give their best bloom in the very year in which the seeds are sown4 ,true annuals are those plants that complete their entire life-cycle in one season4 ,some of the so-called annual flowers will continue to bloom the second and third years1 but the bloom is so poor and sparse after the first season that it does not pay to keep them4 ,some perennials may be treated as annuals by starting the seeds early2 ,chinese pink1 pansy and snapdragon are examples4 ,the regular biennials may be treated practically as annuals2 that is1 seeds may be sown every year1 and after the first year1 therefore1 a seasonal succession of bloom may be had4 ,of such are adlumia1 ,canterbury bell1 lunaria1 ipomopsis1 nothera ,lamarckiana2 and foxglove1 valerian1 and some other perennials would better be treated as biennials4 ,most annuals will bloom in central ,new ,york if the seeds are sown in the open ground when the weather becomes thoroughly settled4 ,but there are some kinds1 as the late cosmos and moon-flowers1 for which the northern season is commonly too short to give good bloom unless they are started very early indoors4 ,if flowers of any annual are wanted extra early1 the seeds should be started under cover4 ,a greenhouse is not necessary for this purpose1 although best results are to be expected with such a building4 ,the seed may be sown in boxes1 and these boxes then placed in a sheltered position on the warm side of a building4 ,at night they may be covered with boards or matting4 ,in very cold 8spells0 the boxes should be brought inside4 ,in this simple way seeds may often be started one to three weeks ahead of the time when they can be sown in the open garden4 ,moreover1 the plants are likely to receive better care in these boxes1 and therefore to grow more rapidly4 ,of course1 if still earlier results are desired1 the seed should be sown in the kitchen1 hotbed1 coldframe1 or in a greenhouse4 ,in starting plants ahead of the season1 be careful not to use too deep boxes4 ,the gardener's 8flat0 may be taken as a suggestion4 ,three inches of earth is sufficient1 and in some cases 7as when the plants are started late7 half this depth is enough4 ,the difficulty with early sown seedlings is 8drawing up10 and weakness from crowding and want of light4 ,this is most liable to occur with window-grown plants4 ,vigorous ,june-sown plants are better than such weaklings4 ,it must be remembered that very early bloom usually means the shortening of the season at the other end2 this may be remedied to some extent by making sowings at different times4 ,the 8hardy0 annuals are such as develop readily without the aid of artificial heat4 ,they are commonly sown in ,may or earlier1 directly in the open ground where they are to grow4 ,florists often sow certain kinds in the fall1 and winter the young plants in coldframes4 ,they may also be wintered under a covering of leaves or evergreen boughs4 ,some of the hardy annuals 7as sweet pea7 withstand considerable frost4 ,the 8half-hardy0 and 8tender0 annuals are alike in that they require more warmth for their germination and growth4 ,the tender kinds are very quickly sensitive to frost4 ,both these1 like the hardy kinds1 may be sown in the open ground1 but not until the weather has become settled and warm1 which for the tender kinds will not commonly be before the first of ,june2 but the tender kinds1 at least1 are preferably started in the house and transplanted to their outdoor beds4 ,of course1 these terms are wholly relative4 ,what may be a tender annual in ,massachusetts may be a hardy annual or even a perennial in ,louisiana4 ,these terms as ordinarily used in this country refer to the northern states1 or not farther south than middle ,atlantic states4 ,some familiar examples of hardy annuals are sweet alyssum1 ageratum1 calendula1 calliopsis1 candytuft1 ,centaurea ,cyanus1 clarkia1 larkspur1 gilia1 ,california poppy1 morning-glory1 marigold1 mignonette1 nemophila1 pansy1 phlox1 pinks1 poppies1 portulaca1 zinnia1 sweet pea1 scabiosa4 ,examples of half-hardy annuals are3 ,china aster1 alonsoa1 balsam1 petunia1 ricinus1 stocks1 balloon-vine1 martynia1 salpiglossis1 thunbergia1 nasturtium1 verbena4 ,examples of tender annuals3 ,amarantus1 celosia or coxcomb1 cosmos1 cotton1 ,lobelia ,erinus1 cobea1 gourds1 ice-plant1 sensitive-plant1 solanums1 torenia1 and such things as dahlias1 caladiums1 and acalypha used for bedding and subtropical effects4 ,some annuals do not bear transplanting well2 as poppies1 bartonia1 ,venus' looking-glass1 the dwarf convolvulus1 lupinus1 and malope4 ,it is best1 therefore1 to sow them where they are to grow4 ,some kinds 7as poppies7 do not bloom all summer1 more especially not if allowed to produce seed4 ,of such kinds a second or third sowing at intervals will provide a succession4 ,preventing the formation of seeds prolongs their life and flowering period4 ,a few of the annuals thrive in partial shade or where they receive sunshine for half the day2 but most of them prefer a sunny situation4 ,any good garden soil is suitable for annuals4 ,if not naturally fertile and friable1 it should be made so by the application of well-rotted stable-manure or humus4 ,the spading should be at least one foot deep4 ,the upper six inches is then to be given a second turning to pulverize and mix it4 ,after making the surface fine and smooth the soil should be pressed down with a board4 ,the seed may now be sprinkled on the soil in lines or concentric circles1 according to the method desired4 ,after covering the seed1 the soil should be again pressed down with a board4 ,this promotes capillarity1 by which the surface of the soil is better supplied with moisture from below4 ,always mark with a label the kind and position of all seed sown4 ,if the flowers are to be grown about the edges of the lawn1 make sure that the grass roots do not run underneath them and rob them of food and moisture4 ,it is well to run a sharp spade deep into the ground about the edges of the bed every two or three weeks for the purpose of cutting off any grass roots that may have run into the bed4 ,if beds are made in the turf1 see that they are #c ft4 or more wide1 so that the grass roots will not undermine them4 ,against the shrub borders1 this precaution may not be necessary4 ,in fact1 it is desirable that the flowers fill all the space between the overhanging branches and the sod4 ,it is surprising how few of the uncommon or little known annuals really have great merit for general purposes4 ,there is nothing yet to take the place of the old-time groups1 such as amaranths1 zinnias1 calendulas1 daturas1 balsams1 annual pinks1 candytufts1 bachelor's buttons1 wallflowers1 larkspurs1 petunias1 gaillardias1 snapdragons1 coxcombs1 lobelias1 coreopsis or calliopsis1 ,california poppies1 four-o'clocks1 sweet sultans1 phloxes1 mignonettes1 scabiosas1 nasturtiums1 marigolds1 ,china asters1 salpiglossis1 nicotianas1 pansies1 portulacas1 castor beans1 poppies1 sunflowers1 verbenas1 stocks1 alyssums1 and such good old running plants as scarlet runners1 sweet peas1 convolvuluses1 ipomeas1 tall nasturtiums1 balloon vines1 cobeas4 ,of the annual vines of recent introduction1 the ,japanese hop has at once taken a prominent place for the covering of fences and arbors1 although it has no floral beauty to recommend it4 ,for bold mass-displays of color in the rear parts of the grounds or along the borders1 some of the coarser species are desirable4 ,good plants for such use are3 sunflower and castor bean for the back rows2 zinnias for bright effects in the scarlets and lilacs2 ,african marigolds for brilliant yellows2 nicotianas for whites4 ,unfortunately1 we have no robust-growing annuals with good blues4 ,some of the larkspurs and the browallias are perhaps the nearest approach to them4 ,for lower-growing and less gross mass-displays1 the following are good3 ,california poppies for oranges and yellows2 sweet sultans for purples1 whites1 and pale yellows2 petunias for purples1 violets1 and whites2 larkspurs for blues and violets2 bachelor's buttons 7or cornflowers7 for blues2 calliopsis and coreopsis and calendulas for yellows2 gaillardias for red-yellows and orange-reds2 ,china asters for many colors4 ,for still less robustness1 good mass-displays can be made with the following3 alyssums and candytufts for whites2 phloxes for whites and various pinks and reds2 lobelias and browallias for blues2 pinks for whites and various shades of pink2 stocks for whites and reds2 wallflowers for brown-yellows2 verbenas for many colors4 ,a garden of pleasant annual flowers is not complete that does not contain some of the 8everlastings0 or immortelles4 ,these 8paper flowers0 are always interesting to children4 ,they are not so desirable for the making of 8dry bouquets0 as for their value as a part of a garden4 ,the colors are bright1 the blooms hold long on the plant1 and most of the kinds are very easy to grow4 ,my favorite groups are the different kinds of xeranthemums and helichrysums4 ,the globe amaranths1 with clover-like heads 7sometimes known as bachelor's buttons71 are good old favorites4 ,rhodanthes and acrocliniums are also good and reliable4 ,the ornamental grasses should not be overlooked4 ,they add a note to the flower-garden and to bouquets that is distinct and can be secured by no other plants4 ,they are easily grown4 ,some of the good annual grasses are ,agrostis nebulosa1 the brizas1 ,bromus brizformis1 the species of eragrostis and pennisetums1 and ,coix ,lachryma as a curiosity4 ,such good lawn grasses as arundo1 pampas-grass1 eulalias1 and erianthus are perennials and are therefore not included in this discussion4 ,some of the most reliable and easily grown annuals are given in the following lists 7under the common trade names74 ,list of annuals by color of flowers4 ,white ,flowers ,ageratum ,mexicanum album4 ,alyssum1 common sweet2 compacta4 ,centranthus macrosiphon albus4 ,china asters4 ,convolvulus major4 ,dianthus1 ,double ,white ,margaret4 ,iberis amara2 coronaria1 ,white ,rocket4 ,ipoma hederacea4 ,lavatera alba4 ,malope grandiflora alba4 ,matthiola 7,stocks71 ,cut and ,come ,again2 ,dresden ,perpetual2 ,giant ,perfection2 ,white ,pearl4 ,mirabilis longiflora alba4 ,nigella4 ,phlox1 ,dwarf ,snowball2 ,leopoldii4 ,poppies1 ,flag of ,truce2 ,shirley2 ,the ,mikado4 ,zinnia4 ,yellow and ,orange ,flowers ,cacalia lutea4 ,calendula officinalis1 common2 ,meteor2 sulphurea2 suffruticosa4 ,calliopsis bicolor marmorata2 cardaminefolia2 elegans picta4 ,cosmidium ,burridgeanum4 ,erysimum ,perofskianum4 ,eschscholtzia ,californica4 ,hibiscus ,africanus2 ,golden ,bowl4 ,ipoma coccinea lutea4 ,loasa tricolor4 ,tagetes1 various kinds4 ,thunbergia alata ,fryeri2 aurantiaca4 ,tropaeolum1 ,dwarf1 ,lady ,bird2 ,tall1 ,schulzi4 ,zinnia4 ,blue and ,purple ,flowers ,ageratum ,mexicanum2 ,mexicanum1 ,dwarf4 ,asperula setosa azurea4 ,brachycome iberidifolia4 ,browallia ,czerniakowski2 elata4 ,centaurea ,cyanus1 ,victoria ,dwarf ,compact2 ,cyanus minor4 ,china asters of several varieties4 ,convolvulus minor2 minor unicaulis4 ,gilia achilleaefolia2 capitata4 ,iberis umbellata2 umbellata lilacina4 ,kaulfussia amelloides2 atroviolacea4 ,lobelia ,erinus2 ,erinus1 ,elegant4 ,nigella4 ,phlox variabilis atropurpurea4 ,salvia farinacea4 ,specularia4 ,verbena1 ,black-blue2 caerulea2 ,golden-leaved4 ,whitlavia gloxinioides4 ,red and ,rose-red ,flowers ,abromia umbellata4 ,alonsoa grandiflora4 ,cacalia1 ,scarlet4 ,clarkia elegans rosea4 ,convolvulus tricolor roseus4 ,dianthus1 ,half ,dwarf ,early ,margaret2 ,dwarf ,perpetual2 ,chinensis4 ,gaillardia picta4 ,ipoma coccinea2 volubilis4 ,matthiola annuus2 ,blood-red ,ten ,weeks2 grandiflora1 ,dwarf4 ,papaver 7,poppy7 cardinale2 ,mephisto4 ,phaseolus multiflorus4 ,phlox1 ,large-flowering ,dwarf2 ,dwarf ,fireball2 ,black ,warrior4 ,salvia coccinea4 ,saponaria4 ,tropaeolum1 ,dwarf1 ,tom ,thumb4 ,verbena hybrida1 ,scarlet ,defiance4 ,zinnia4 ,useful annuals for edgings of beds and1 walks1 and for ribbon-beds4 ,ageraturn1 blue and white4 ,alyssum1 sweet4 ,brachycome4 ,calandrinia4 ,clarkia4 ,collinsias4 ,dianthuses or pinks4 ,gilia4 ,gypsophila muralis4 ,iberis or candytufts4 ,leptosiphons4 ,lobelia ,erinus4 ,nemophilas4 ,nigellas4 ,portulaca or rose moss 7,fig4 #bdc74 ,saponaria ,calabrica4 ,specularia4 ,torenia4 ,whitlavia4 ,annuals that continue to bloom after frost4 ,this list is compiled from ,bulletin #afa1 ,cornell ,experiment ,station4 ,several hundred kinds of annuals were grown at this station 7,ithaca1 ,n4,y47 in #ahig and #ahih4 ,the notes are given in the original trade names under which the seedsmen supplied the stock4 ,illustration3 ,figure #bdc4 ,portulaca1 or rose moss4 ,abronia umbellata4 ,adonis aestivalis2 autumnale4 ,argemone grandiflora4 ,calendulas4 ,callirrho4 ,carduus benedictus4 ,centaurea ,cyanus4 ,centauridium4 ,centranthus macro- ,cerinthe retorta4 siphon4 ,cheiranthus ,cheiri4 ,chrysanthemums4 ,convolvulus minor2 tricolor4 ,dianthus of various kinds4 ,elsholtzia cristata4 ,erysimum ,perofskianum2 ,arkansanum4 ,eschscholtzias1 in several varieties 7,fig4 #bdi74 ,gaillardia picta4 ,gilia achilleaefolia2 capitata2 laciniata2 tricolor4 ,iberis affinis4 ,lavatera alba4 ,matthiolas or stocks4 nothera rosea2 ,lamarckiana2 ,phlox ,drummondii4 ,drummondii4 ,podolepis affinis2 chrysantha4 ,salvia coccinea2 farinacea2 ,horminum4 ,verbenas4 ,vicia ,gerardi4 ,virginian stocks4 ,viscaria elegans2 oculata2 ,cli-rosa4 ,list of annuals suitable for bedding 7that is1 for 8mass effects0 of color74 ,a list of this kind is necessarily both incomplete and imperfect1 because good new varieties are frequently appearing1 and the taste of the gardener must be consulted4 ,any plants may be used1 broadly speaking1 for bedding2 but the following list 7given in terms of trade names7 suggests some of the best subjects to use when beds of solid1 strong color are desired4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdd ,pansies ,adonis aestivalis2 autumnalis4 ,ageratum ,mexicanum2 ,mexicanum1 ,dwarf4 ,bartonia aurea4 ,cacalia4 ,calendula officinalis1 in several forms2 pluvialis2 ,pongei2 sulphurea1 fl4 pl42 suffruticosa4 ,calliopsis bicolor marmorata2 cardaminefolia2 elegans picta4 ,callirrho involucrata2 pedata2 pedata nana4 ,centaurea ,americana2 ,cyanus1 ,victoria ,dwarf ,compact2 ,cyanus minor2 suaveolens4 ,china asters4 ,chrysanthemum ,burridgeanum2 carinatum2 coronarium2 tricolor4 ,convolvulus minor2 tricolor4 ,cosmidium ,burridgeanum4 ,delphinium1 single2 double4 ,dianthus1 ,double ,white ,half ,dwarf ,margaret2 ,dwarf ,perpetual2 ,caryophyllus semperflorens2 ,chinensis1 double2 dentosus hybridus2 ,heddewigii2 imperialis2 laciniatus1 ,salmon ,queen2 plumarius2 superbus1 dwarf fl4 pl42 picotee4 ,elsholtzia cristata4 ,eschscholtzia ,californica2 crocea2 ,mandarin2 tenuifolia 7,fig4 #bdi74 ,gaillardia picta2 picta ,lorenziana4 ,gilia achilleaefolia2 capitata2 laciniata2 linifolia2 nivalis2 tricolor4 ,godetia ,whitneyi2 grandiflora maculata2 rubicunda splendens4 ,hibiscus ,africanus2 ,golden ,bowl4 ,iberis affinis2 amara2 coronaria2 umbellata4 ,impatiens or balsam4 ,lavatera alba2 trimestris4 ,linum grandiflorum4 ,madia elegans4 ,malope grandiflora4 ,matricaria eximia plena4 ,matthiola or stock1 in many forms2 ,wallflower-leaved2 bicornis4 ,nigella1 or ,love-in-a-mist4 nothera ,drummondii2 ,lamarckiana2 rosea tetraptera4 ,papaver or poppy1 of many kinds2 cardinale2 glaucum2 umbrosum4 ,petunia1 bedding kinds4 ,phlox ,drummondii1 in many varieties4 ,portulaca 7,fig4 #bdc74 ,salvia farinacea2 ,horminum2 splendens4 ,schizanthus papilionaceus2 pinnatus4 ,silene ,armeria2 pendula4 ,tagetes1 or marigold1 in many forms2 erecta2 patula2 signata4 ,tropaeolum1 ,dwarf4 ,verbena auriculaeflora2 ,italica striata2 hybrida2 caerulea2 ,golden-leaved4 ,viscaria ,cli-rosa2 elegans picta2 oculata4 ,zinnia1 ,dwarf2 elegans alba2 ,tom ,thumb2 ,haageana2 coccinea plena 7,fig4 #bdg74 ,,xi4 ,the back yard1 with summer house1 and gardens beyond4 ,,xi4 ,the back yard1 with summer house1 and gardens beyond4 ,list of annuals by height4 ,it is obviously impossible to make any accurate or definite list of plants in terms of their height1 but the beginner may be aided by approximate measurements4 ,the following lists are made from ,bulletin #afa of the ,cornell ,experiment ,station1 which gives tabular data on many annuals grown at ,ithaca1 ,n4,y4 ,seeds of most of the kinds were sown in the open1 rather late4 8,the soil varied somewhat1 but it was light and well tilled1 and only moderately rich40 ,ordinary good care was given the plants4 ,the average height of the plants of each kind at full growth1 as they stood on the ground1 is given in these lists4 ,of course1 these heights might be less or more with different soils1 different treatments1 and different climates2 but the figures are fairly comparable among themselves4 ,the measurements are based on the stock supplied by leading seedsmen under the trade names here given4 ,it is not unlikely that some of the discrepancies were due to mixture of seed or to stock being untrue to type2 some of it may have been due to soil conditions4 ,the same name may be found in two divisions in some instances1 the plants having been grown from different lots of seeds4 ,the lists will indicate to the grower what variations he may expect in any large lot of seeds4 ,seedsmen's catalogues should be consulted for what the trade considers to be the proper and normal heights for the different plants4 ,plants #f-h in4 high ,abronia umbellata grandiflora4 ,alyssum compactum4 ,callirrho involucrata4 ,godetia1 ,bijou1 ,lady ,albemarle1 and ,lady ,satin ,rose4 ,gypsophila muralis4 ,kaulfussia amelloides4 ,leptosiphon hybridus4 ,linaria ,maroccana4 ,lobelia ,erinus and ,erinus ,elegant4 ,nemophila atomaria1 discoidalis1 insignis1 and maculata4 ,nolana lanceolata1 paradoxa1 prostrata1 and atriplicifolia4 ,podolepis chrysantha and affinis4 ,portulaca4 ,rhodanthe ,manglesii4 ,sedum caeruleum4 ,silene pendula ruberrima4 ,verbena4 ,plants #i-ab in4 high ,alyssum4 ,asperula setosa azurea4 ,brachycome iberidifolia4 ,calandrinia umbellata elegans4 ,callirrho pedata nana4 ,centaurea ,cyanus ,victoria ,dwarf ,compact4 ,centranthus macrosiphon nanus4 ,collinsia bicolor1 candidissima and multicolor marmorata4 ,convolvulus minor and tricolor4 ,eschscholtzia crocea4 ,gamolepis ,tagetes4 ,gilia laciniata and linifolia4 ,godetia ,duchess of ,albany1 ,prince of ,wales1 ,fairy ,queen1 ,brilliant1 grandiflora maculata1 ,whitneyi1 ,duke of ,fife1 rubicunda splendens4 ,helipterum corymbiflorum4 ,iberis affinis4 ,kaulfussia amelloides atroviolacea1 and a4 kermesina4 ,leptosiphon androsaceus and densiflorus4 ,linaria bipartita splendida4 ,matthiola dwarf ,forcing ,snowflake1 ,wallflower-leaved4 ,mesembryanthemum crystallinum4 ,mimulus cupreus4 ,nemophila atomaria oculata and marginata4 ,nigella4 ,nolana atriplicifolia4 ,omphalodes linifolia4 nothera rosea and tetraptera4 ,phlox1 ,large-flowering ,dwarf and ,dwarf ,snowball4 ,rhodanthe maculata4 ,saponaria ,calabrica4 ,schizanthus pinnatus4 ,silene ,armeria and pendula4 ,specularia4 ,viscaria oculata cserulea4 ,plants #ac-ag in4 high ,abronia umbellata4 ,acroclinium album and roseum4 ,brachycome iberidifolia alba4 ,browallia ,czerniakowski and elata4 ,cacalia4 ,calandrinia grandiflora4 ,calendula sulphurea flore pleno4 ,chrysanthemum carinatum4 ,collomia coccinea4 ,convolvulus minor and minor unicaulis4 ,dianthus1 the ,margaret varieties1 ,dwarf ,perpetual1 ,caryophyllus semperflorens1 ,chinensis1 dentosus hybridus1 ,heddewigii1 imperialis1 laciniatus1 plumarius1 superbus dwarf1 picotee1 ,comtesse de ,paris4 ,elsholtzia cristata4 ,eschscholtzia ,californica1 ,mandarin1 maritima and tenuifolia4 ,gaillardia picta4 ,gilia achillesefolia alba and nivalis4 ,helipterum ,sanfordii4 ,hieracium1 ,bearded4 ,iberis amara1 coronaria ,empress1 coronaria ,white ,rocket1 ,sweet-scented1 umbellata1 umbellata carnea1 and umbellata lilacina4 ,leptosiphon carmineus4 ,lupinus nanus1 sulphureus4 ,malope grandiflora4 ,matthiola1 ,wallflower-leaved and ,virginian stock4 ,mirabilis alba4 ,nigella4 nothera ,lamarckiana4 ,palafoxia ,hookeriana4 ,papaver1 ,shirley and glaucum4 ,petunia4 ,phlox of many kinds4 ,salvia ,horminum4 ,schizanthus papilionaceus4 ,statice ,thouini and superba4 ,tagetes1 ,pride of the ,garden and ,dwarf4 ,tropaeolum1 many kinds of dwarf4 ,venidium calendulaceum4 ,verbena of several kinds4 ,viscaria ,cli-rosa1 elegans picta1 oculata1 and oculata alba4 ,whitlavia gloxinioides4 ,plants #ah-bc in4 high ,adonis aestivalis and autumnalis4 ,amarantus atropurpureus4 ,calendula officinalis1 ,meteor1 suffruticosa1 and pluvialis4 ,calliopsis bicolor marmorata4 ,callirrho pedata4 ,centaurea ,cyanus minor ,blue and suaveolens4 ,centranthus macrosiphon4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bde4 ,gaillardia1 one of the showy garden annuals4 ,chrysanthemum ,burridgeanum1 carinatum1 tricolor ,dunnettii4 ,cosmidium ,burridgeanum4 ,delphinium 7annual74 ,eutoca ,wrangeliana4 ,gaillardia picta 7,fig4 #bde71 ,lorenziana4 ,gilia achilleaefolia1 a4 rosea and tricolor4 ,helichrysum atrosanguineum4 ,ipoma coccinea4 ,linum grandiflorum4 ,loasa tricolor4 ,lupinus albus1 hirsutus and pubescens4 ,malope grandiflora alba4 ,matricaria eximia plena4 ,matthiola1 several kinds4 nothera ,drummondii4 ,papaver ,mephisto1 cardinale1 c4 hybridum1 c4 ,danebrog1 umbrosum4 ,tagetes patula and signata4 ,vicia ,gerardii4 ,whitlavia grandiflora and g4 alba4 ,xeranthemum album and multiflorum album4 ,zinnias of many kinds 7all not mentioned in other lists74 ,plants #bd-cj in4 high ,bartonia aurea4 ,calendula officinalis fl4 pl41 ,prince of ,orange and ,pongei4 ,calliopsis elegans picta4 ,cardiospermum ,halicacabum4 ,carduus benedictus4 ,centaurea ,cyanus minor ,emperor ,william4 ,cheiranthus ,cheiri4 ,chrysanthemum tricolor1 t4 hybridum and coronarium sulphureum fl4 pl4 ,clarkia elegans rosea4 ,datura cornucopia4 ,erysimum ,arkansanum and ,perofskianum4 ,eutoca viscida4 ,gilia capitata alba4 ,helichrysum bracteatum and macranthum4 ,hibiscus ,africanus4 ,impatiens1 all varieties4 ,lupinus hirsutus pilosus4 ,matthiola ,blood-red ,ten ,weeks1 ,cut and ,come ,again1 grandiflora1 annuus1 and others4 ,mirabilis ,jalapa folio variegata and longiflora alba4 ,papaver1 ,american ,flag1 ,mikado and ,double4 ,perilla laciniata and ,nankinensis4 ,salvia farinacea4 ,tagetes ,eldorado1 ,nugget of ,gold1 erecta fl4 pl4 ,xeranthemum annuum and superbissimum fl4 pl4 ,zinnia elegans alba fl4 pl4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdf4 ,wild phlox 7,p4 maculata71 one of the parents of the perennial garden phloxes4 ,plants #ca-dj in4 high ,acroclinium1 double rose and white4 ,adonis aestivalis4 ,ageratum ,mexicanum album and blue4 ,amarantus bicolor ruber4 ,argemone grandiflora4 ,centaurea ,americana4 ,centauridium ,drummondii4 ,cerinthe retorta4 c4 double yellow4 ,chrysanthemum coronarium album and ,clarkia elegans alba fl4 pl4 ,cleome spinosa4 ,cyclanthera pedata4 ,datura fastuosa and ,new ,golden ,euphorbia marginata4 ,queen4 ,gilia capitata alba4 ,helianthus ,dwarf double and cucu- ,hibiscus ,golden ,bowl4 merifolius4 ,lavatera trimestris4 ,madia elegans4 ,martynia craniolaria4 ,salvia coccinea4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdg4 ,zinnias4 ,often known as 8youth and old age40 ,plants #da in4 and above4 ,adonis autumnalis4 ,helianthus of several garden kinds 7not mentioned elsewhere74 ,ricinus1 all varieties4 ,and many climbing vines4 ,distances for planting annuals 7or plants treated as annuals74 ,only an approximate idea can be given of the distances apart at which annuals should be planted1 for not only does the distance depend on the fertility of the land 7the stronger the soil the greater the distance71 but also on the object the person has in growing the plants1 whether to produce a solid mass effect or to secure strong specimen plants with large individual bloom4 ,if specimen plants are to be raised1 the distances should be liberal4 ,the distances here given for some of the commoner annuals may be considered to represent average or usual spaces that single plants may occupy under ordinary conditions in flowerbeds1 although it would probably be impossible to find any two gardeners or seedsmen who would agree on the details4 ,these are suggestions rather than recommendations4 ,it is always well to set or sow more plants than are wanted1 for there is danger of loss from cut-worms and other causes4 ,the general tendency is to let the plants stand too close together at maturity4 ,in case of doubt1 place plants described in books and catalogues as very dwarf at six inches1 those as medium-sized at twelve inches1 very large growers at two feet1 and thin them out if they seem to demand it as they grow4 ,the plants in these lists are thrown into four groups 7rather than all placed together with the numbers after them7 in order to classify the subject in the beginner's mind4 #f to #i inches apart ,ageratum1 very dwarf kinds4 ,alyssum4 ,asperula setosa4 ,cacalia4 ,candytuft4 ,clarkia1 dwarf4 ,collinsia4 ,gysophila muralis4 ,kaulfussia4 ,larkspur1 dwarf kinds4 ,linaria4 ,linum grandiflorum ,lobelia ,erinus4 ,mignonette1 dwarf kinds4 ,pansy4 ,phlox1 very dwarf kinds4 ,pinks1 very dwarf kinds4 ,rhodanthe4 ,schizopetalon4 ,silene ,armeria4 ,snapdragon1 dwarf4 ,sweet pea4 ,torenia4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bdh4 ,improved perennial phlox4 #aj to #ae inches apart ,those marked 7ft47 are examples of plants that may usually stand at twelve inches4 ,abronia 7ft474 ,acroclinium4 ,adlumia4 ,adonis autumnalis4 ,ageratum1 tall kinds4 ,alonsoa4 ,aster1 ,china1 smaller kinds 7ft474 ,balsam4 ,bartonia4 ,browallia4 ,calendula4 ,california poppy 7,eschscholtzia74 ,calliopsis4 ,cardiospermum4 ,carnation1 flower-garden kinds 7ft474 ,celosia1 small kinds4 ,centaurea ,cyanus4 ,centauridium 7ft474 ,centranthus 7ft474 ,clarkia1 tall 7ft474 ,convolvulus tricolor 7ft474 ,gaillardia1 except on strong land4 ,gilias4 ,glaucium4 ,godetia 7ft474 ,gomphrena4 ,gypsophila elegans4 ,helichrysum 7ft474 ,hunnemannia4 ,jacobaea4 kinds4 ,larkspur1 tall annual ,malope4 varieties4 ,marigold1 intermediate ,mignonette1 tall kinds4 ,mesembryanthemum 7ice-plant7 7ft474 ,morning-glory4 ,nasturtium1 dwarf4 ,nemophila4 ,nigella4 ,petunia4 ,phlox ,drummondii4 ,pinks4 ,poppies 7#f to #ah in41 according to variety74 ,portulaca 7ft474 ,salpiglossis 7ft474 ,scabiosa 7ft474 ,schizanthus4 ,snapdragon1 tall kinds4 ,statice 7ft474 ,stock 7ft474 ,tagetes1 dwarf ,french4 ,thunbergia 7ft474 ,verbena4 ,whitlavia 7ft471 7ft474 ,zinnia1 very dwarf kinds ,illustration3 ,fig #bdi4 ,eschscholtzia1 or ,california poppy4 ,one-half size4 #ah to #bd inches ,amarantus4 ,ammobium4 ,argemone4 ,aster1 ,china1 the big kinds 7or rows #b ft4 apart and plants #a ft4 in row74 ,callirrho4 ,canterbury bell 7up to #c ft474 ,celosia1 large kinds 7up to #cj in474 ,chrysanthemum1 annual4 ,cosmos1 smaller kinds4 ,euphorbia marginata4 ,four o'clock 7up to #cj in47 ,hop1 ,japanese4 7to #cj in47 ,kochia1 or summer cypress ,marigold1 tall kinds4 ,nasturtium1 tall1 if allowed to spread on the ground4 ,nicotiana 7up to #cj in474 nothera1 tall kinds4 ,salvia coccinea 7splendens grandiflora71 about #b ft4 ,zinnia1 tall kinds 7up to #c ft74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bej4 ,a modern peony4 ,about #c feet or more ,caladium4 ,cosmos1 tall kinds 7#b to #c ft474 ,dahlia4 ,datura4 ,martynia4 ,ricinus or castor bean4 ,solanums4 ,sunflower1 tall kinds4 ,wigandia4 #c4 ,,hardy ,,herbaceous ,,perennials ,there is a rapidly growing appreciation of perennial herbs1 not only as flower-garden and lawn subjects1 but as parts of native landscapes4 ,every locality yields its wild asters1 golden-rods1 columbines1 iris1 trilliums1 lilies1 anemones1 pentstemons1 mints1 sunflowers1 or other plants2 and many of these also make good subjects for the home grounds4 ,it is important to remember that some perennial herbs begin to fail after one to three seasons of full bloom4 ,it is a good plan to have new plants coming on to take their place2 or the old roots may be taken up in the fall and divided1 only the fresh and strong parts being planted again4 ,perennial herbs are propagated in various ways1--by seeds1 and by cuttings of the stems and roots1 but mostly by the easy method of division4 ,on the raising of these plants from seeds1 ,william ,falconer writes as follows in ,dreer's 8,garden ,book0 for #aiji3-- 8,hardy perennials are easily grown from seed4 ,in many cases they are a little slower than annuals1 but with intelligent care they are successfully raised1 and from seed is an excellent way to get up a big stock of perennials4 ,many sorts1 if sown in spring1 bloom the first year from seeds as early as annuals2 for instance3 gaillardia1 ,iceland poppies1 ,chinese larkspur1 platycodon1 etc4 ,others do not bloom until the second year4 8,the amateur may have more success and less bother growing perennials from seed sown in the open ground than from any other way4 ,prepare a bed in a nice1 warm1 sheltered spot in the garden1 preferably not very sunny4 ,let the surface of the bed be raised four or five inches above the general level1 and the soil be a mellow fine earth on the surface4 ,draw shallow rows across the surface of the bed three or four inches apart1 and here sow the seeds1 keeping the varieties of one kind or nature as much together as practicable1 covering the seeds thinly2 press the whole surface gently1 water moderately1 then dust a little fine loose soil over all4 ,if the weather is sunny or windy1 shade with papers or a few branches1 but remove these in the evening4 ,when the seedlings come up1 thin them out to stiffen those that are left1 and when they are two or three inches high1 they are fit for transplanting into permanent quarters4 ,all this should be done in early spring1 say ,march1 ,april1 or ,may4 ,again1 in ,july or ,august perennials are very easily raised out of doors1 and much in the same way as above4 ,or they may be sown in early spring indoors1 in the window1 the hotbed1 the coldframe1 or the greenhouse1 preferably in boxes or pans1 as for growing annuals4 ,some gardeners sow seed right in the coldframe4 ,i have tried both ways1 and find the boxes best1 as the different varieties of seeds do not come up at the same time1 and you can remove them from the close frame to more airy quarters as soon as the seed comes up1 whereas1 if sown in a frame1 you would have to give them all the same treatment4 ,when the seedlings are large enough1 ,i transplant them into other boxes1 and put them into a shady part of the garden1 but not under the shade of trees1 as there they will #8draw' too much4 ,about the fifteenth of ,september plant them in the garden where they are to bloom1 or if the garden is full of summer-flowering plants1 put them in beds in the vegetable garden1 to be planted out in the early spring1 and give them a light covering of straw or manure to keep sudden changes of the weather away from them40 ,hardy perennial herbs may be planted in ,september and ,october with excellent results2 also in spring4 ,see that they are protected with mulch in winter4 ,perennial herbs suitable for lawn and 8planting0 effects4 ,some of the striking plants that are valuable for lawn planting in the ,north1 chosen chiefly on account of their size1 foliage1 and habit1 are mentioned in the following brief list4 ,they may or may not be suitable for flower-gardens4 ,it is impossible to give to this list any degree of completeness2 but the names here printed will be suggestive of the kinds of things that may be used4 ,the 99 denotes native plants4 ,yucca1 ,yucca filamentosa499 ,funkia1 ,funkia1 of several species4 ,peltate saxifrage1 ,saxifraga peltata499 ,rose mallow1 ,hibiscus ,moscheutos499 ,elecampane1 ,inula ,helenium 7,fig4 #bea74 ,wild sunflowers1 ,helianthus99 of different species1 especially ,h4 orygalis1 ,h4 giganteus1 ,h4 grosse-serratus1 ,h4 strumosus4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bea4 ,elecampane4 ,naturalized in old fields and along roadsides4 ,compass-plants1 ,silphium99 of several species1 especially ,s4 terebinthinaceum1 ,s4 laciniatum1 ,s4 perfoliatum4 ,sacaline1 ,polygonum ,sachalinense4 ,japanese knotweed1 ,polygonum cuspidatum4 ,bocconia1 ,bocconia cordata4 ,wild wormwood1 ,artemisia ,stelleriana99 and others4 ,butterfly-weed1 ,asclepias tuberosa499 ,wild asters1 ,aster99 of many species1 especially ,a4 ,nov-,angl 7best71 ,a4 laevis1 ,a4 multiflorus1 ,a4 spectabilis4 ,golden-rods1 ,solidago99 of various species1 especially ,s4 speciosa1 ,s4 nemoralis1 ,s4 juncea1 ,s4 gigantea4 ,loose-strife1 ,lythrum ,salicaria4 ,flags1 ,iris of many species1 some native4 ,japanese wind-flower1 ,anemone ,japonica4 ,goat's beard1 ,aruncus sylvester 7,spira ,aruncus7499 ,baptisia1 ,baptisia tinctoria499 ,thermopsis1 ,thermopsis mollis499 ,wild senna1 ,cassia ,marilandica499 ,wild trefoil1 ,desmodium ,canadense99 and others4 ,ribbon grass1 ,phalaris arundinacea99 var4 picta4 ,zebra grass1 ,eulalia 7or ,miscanthus7 species1 and varieties4 ,wild panic grass1 ,panicum virgatum499 ,bambusas 7and related things7 of several sorts4 ,ravenna grass1 ,erianthus ,ravenn4 ,arundo1 ,arundo ,donax1 and var4 variegata4 ,reed1 ,phragmites communis499 ,this and the remaining plants of the list should be planted in the edges of water or in bogs 7the list might be greatly extended74 ,wild rice1 ,zizania aquatica499 ,cat-tail1 ,typha angustifolia99 and ,t4 latifolia499 ,lizard's-tail1 ,saururus cernuus499 ,peltandra1 ,peltandra undulata499 ,orontium1 ,orontium aquaticum499 ,native calla1 ,calla palustris499 ,a brief seasonal flower-garden or border list of herbaceous perennials4 ,to facilitate making a selection of perennial herbs for bloom1 the plants in the following list are arranged according to their flowering season1 beginning with the earliest4 ,the name of the month indicates when they usually begin to bloom4 ,it should be understood that the blooming season of plants is not a fixed period1 but varies more or less with localities and seasons4 ,these dates are applicable to most of the middle and northern states4 ,natives to ,north ,america are marked with an asterisk 994 ,this list is by ,ernest ,walker4 ,,march ,blue ,wind-flower1 ,anemone blanda4 #f in4 ,march-,may4 ,sky-blue1 star-like flowers4 ,foliage deeply cut4 ,for border and rockwork4 ,bloodroot1 ,sanguinaria ,canadensis499 #f in4 ,march-,april4 ,pure white4 ,glaucous foliage4 ,partial shade4 ,border or rock-work4 ,,april ,mountain ,rock-cress1 ,arabis albida4 #f in4 ,april-,june4 ,flowers pure white2 close heads in profusion4 ,fragrant4 ,for dry places and rock-work4 ,purple ,rock-cress1 ,aubrietia deltoidea4 #f in4 ,april-,june4 ,small purple flowers in great profusion4 ,daisy1 ,bellis perennis1 #d-f in4 ,april-,july4 ,flowers white1 pink1 or red2 single or double4 ,the double varieties are the more desirable4 ,cover the plants in winter with leaves4 ,may be raised from seed1 like pansies4 ,spring ,beauty1 ,claytonia ,virginica499 #f in4 ,april-,may4 ,clusters of light pink flowers4 ,partial shade4 ,from six to a dozen should be set together4 ,shooting ,star1 ,dodecatheon ,meadia499 #a ft4 ,april-,may4 ,reddish purple flowers1 orange-yellow eye1 in clusters4 ,cool1 shady location4 ,plant several in a place4 ,dog's-bane1 ,doronicum plantagineum varexcelsum4 #bj in4 ,april-,june4 ,large1 showy flowers2 orange-yellow4 ,bushy plants4 ,liver-leaf1 ,hepatica acutiloba99 and triloba499 #f in4 ,april-,may4 ,flowers small but numerous1 varying white and pink4 ,partial shade4 ,hardy ,candytuft1 ,iberis sempervirens4 #aj in4 ,april-,may4 ,small white flowers in clusters2 profuse4 ,large1 spreading1 evergreen tufts4 ,alpine ,lamp-flower1 ,lychnis alpina499 #f in4 ,april-,may4 ,flowers star-like1 in showy heads2 pink4 ,for border and rockery4 ,early ,forget-me-not1 ,myosotis dissitiflora4 #f in4 ,april-,june4 ,small clusters of deep sky-blue flowers4 ,tufted habit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beb4 ,the wild ,trillium grandiflorum4 ,everblooming ,f41 ,m4 palustris var4 semperflorens4 #aj in4 ,light blue2 spreading habit4 ,blue-bells1 ,mertensia ,virginica499 #a ft4 ,april-,may4 ,flowers blue1 changing to pink2 pendent2 tubular2 not showy1 but beautiful4 ,rich soil4 ,partial shade4 ,tree ,peony1 ,ponia ,moutan4 7,see ,may1 ,ponia47 ,moss ,pink1 ,phlox subulata499 #f in4 ,april-,june4 ,numerous deep pink1 small flowers2 creeping habit2 evergreen4 ,suitable for dry places as a covering plant4 ,trilliums499 ,of several species2 always attractive and useful in the border 7,fig4 #beb74 ,they are common in rich woods and copses4 ,dig the tubers in late summer and plant them directly in the border4 ,the large ones will bloom the following spring4 ,the same may be said of the erythronium1 or dog's-tooth violet or adder's tongue1 and of very many other early wild flowers4 ,,may ,ajuga reptans4 #f in4 ,may-,june4 ,spikes of purple flowers4 ,grows well in shady places2 spreading4 ,a good cover plant4 ,madwort1 ,alyssum saxatile var4 compactum4 #a ft4 ,may-,june4 ,flowers fragrant1 in clusters1 clear golden-yellow4 ,foliage silvery4 ,well-drained soil4 ,one of the best yellow flowers4 ,columbine1 ,aquilegia glandulosa and others 7,fig4 #bec74 #a ft4 ,may-,june4 ,deep blue sepals2 white petals4 ,aquilegias are old favorites4 7,see ,june47 ,the wild ,a4 ,canadensis99 is desirable4 ,lily-of-the-,valley1 ,convallaria majalis499 #h in4 ,may-,june4 ,racemes of small white bells2 fragrant4 ,well known4 ,partial shade4 7,see ,chap4 ,,viii47 ,fumitory1 ,corydalis nobilis4 #a ft4 ,may-,june4 ,large clusters of fine yellow flowers4 ,bushy1 upright habit4 ,does well in partial shade4 ,bleeding-,heart1 ,dicentra spectabilis4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,may-,june4 ,well known4 ,racemes of heart-shaped1 deep pink and white flowers4 ,will bear partial shade4 ,crested ,iris1 ,iris cristata499 #f in4 ,may-,june4 ,flowers blue1 fringed with yellow4 ,leaves sword-shaped4 ,german ,iris1 ,i4 ,germanica4 #ab-ae in4 ,may-,june4 ,numerous varieties and colors4 ,large flowers1 #c-d on a stem4 ,broad1 glaucous1 sword-shaped leaves4 ,peony1 ,ponia officinalis4 #b ft4 ,may-,june4 ,this is the well-known herbaceous peony4 ,there are numerous varieties and hybrids4 ,illustration3 ,figure #bec4 ,one of the columbines4 ,large flowers1 #d-f in4 across4 ,crimson1 white1 pink1 yellowish1 etc4 ,suitable for lawn or the border4 ,fig4 #bej4 ,tree ,peony1 ,p4 ,moutan4 #d;ft4 ,april-,may4 ,numerous named varieties4 ,flowers as above1 excepting yellow4 ,branched1 dense1 shrubby habit4 ,meadow ,sage1 ,salvia pratensis4 #b-a_/b ft4 ,may-,june1 ,august4 ,spikes of deep blue flowers4 ,branching from the ground4 ,,june ,achillea ,ptarmica1 fl4 pl41 var4 8,the ,pearl40 #a_/b ft4 ,june-,august4 ,small double white flowers1 in few-flowered clusters4 ,rich soil4 ,wind-flower1 ,anemone ,pennsylvanica499 #ah in4 ,june-,september4 ,white flowers on long stems4 ,erect habit4 ,does well in the shade4 ,st4 ,bruno's ,lily1 ,paradisea ,liliastrum4 #ah in4 ,june-,july4 ,bell-like1 white flowers in handsome spikes4 ,golden-spurred ,columbine1 ,aquilegia chrysantha499 #c ft4 ,june-,august4 ,golden flowers with slender spurs2 fragrant4 ,rocky ,mountain ,columbine1 ,a4 crulea499 #a ft4 ,june-,august4 ,flowers with white petals and deep blue sepals1 #b-c in4 in diameter4 7,see ,may47 ,woodruff1 ,asperula odorata4 #f in4 ,june-,july4 ,small white flowers4 ,herbage fragrant when wilted4 ,does well in shade2 spreading habit4 ,used for flavoring drinks1 scenting and protecting garments4 ,astilbe ,japonica 7incorrectly called ,spira74 #b ft4 ,june-,july4 ,small white flowers in a feathery inflorescence4 ,compact habit4 ,poppy ,mallow1 ,callirrho involucrata499 #aj in4 ,june-,october4 ,large crimson flowers1 with white centers4 ,trailing habit4 ,for border and rockery4 ,carpathian ,harebell1 ,campanula ,carpatica 7,fig4 #bed74 #h in4 ,june-,september4 ,flowers deep blue4 ,tufted habit4 ,for border or rockery4 ,good for cutting4 ,c4 glomerata var4 ,dahurica4 #b ft4 ,june-,august4 ,deep purple flowers in terminal clusters4 ,branching from the ground4 ,erect habit4 ,canterbury ,bell1 ,c4 ,medium4 ,an old favorite4 ,it is biennial1 but blooms the first season if sown early4 ,corydalis lutea4 #a ft4 ,june-,september4 ,flowers yellow1 in terminal clusters4 ,loose branching habit4 ,glaucous foliage4 ,scotch ,pink1 ,dianthus plumarius4 #aj in4 ,june-,july4 ,white and pink-ringed flowers on slender stems4 ,densely tufted habit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bed4 ,campanula ,carpatica4 ,fringed ,pink1 ,d4 superbus4 #ah in4 ,july-,august4 ,fringed flowers4 ,lilac tint4 ,gas ,plant1 ,dictamnus ,fraxinella4 #c ft4 ,june4 ,flowers purple1 showy1 fragrant2 in long spikes4 ,regular habit4 ,var4 alba4 ,white4 ,gaillardia aristata499 #b ft4 ,june-,october4 ,showy orange and maroon flowers on long stems4 ,good for cutting4 ,hybrid gaillardias offer quite a variety of brilliant colors4 ,heuchera sanguinea499 #ah in4 ,june-,september4 ,flowers in open panicles1 scarlet1 on clustered stems from a tufted mass of pretty foliage4 ,japan ,iris1 ,iris laevigata 7,i4 ,kaempferi74 #b-c ft4 ,june-,july4 ,large flowers of various colors1 in variety4 ,green1 sword-like leaves4 ,dense tufted habit4 ,prefers a moist situation4 ,blazing ,star1 ,liatris spicata499 #b ft4 ,june-,august4 ,spikes of fine1 small purple flowers4 ,slender foliage4 ,unbranched1 erect stems4 ,will grow in the poorest soil4 ,iceland ,poppy1 ,papaver nudicaule499 #a ft4 ,june-,october4 ,bright yellow flowers4 ,a close1 dense habit4 ,erect1 naked stems4 ,the varieties ,album1 white1 and ,miniatum1 deep orange1 are also desirable4 ,oriental ,poppy1 ,p4 orientale4 #b-d ft4 ,june4 ,flowers #f-h in4 across2 deep scarlet1 with a purple spot at the base of each petal4 ,there are other varieties of pink1 orange1 and crimson shades4 ,pentstemon barbatus var4 ,torreyi499 #c-d ft4 ,june-,september4 ,crimson flowers in long spikes4 ,branching from the base4 ,erect habit4 ,,xii4 ,the back yard1 with heavy flower-garden planting4 ,,xii4 ,the back yard1 with heavy flower-garden planting4 ,perennial ,phlox1 ,phlox paniculata99 and hybrids with ,p4 maculata499 #b-c ft4 ,june4 ,a great variety of colors in selfs and variegated forms4 ,flowers borne in large1 flat panicles4 7,figs4 #bdf1 #bdh47 ,rudbeckia maxima99 #e-f ft4 ,august4 ,large flowers2 cone-like center and long1 drooping1 yellow petals4 ,dropwort1 ,ulmaria ,filipendula4 #c ft4 ,june-,july4 ,white flowers in compact clusters4 ,tufted foliage1 dark green and handsomely cut4 ,erect stems4 7,often referred to ,spira47 ,adam's ,needle1 ,yucca filamentosa499 #d-e ft4 ,june-,july4 ,waxen white1 pendulous1 liliaceous flowers in a great thyrsus4 ,leaves long1 narrow1 dark green1 with marginal filaments4 ,for the lawn1 and for massing in large grounds4 ,,july ,hollyhock1 ,altha rosea4 #e-h ft4 ,summer and fall4 ,flowers white1 crimson1 and yellow1 lavender and purple4 ,stately plants of spire-like habit2 useful for the back of the border1 or beds and groups4 ,the newer double varieties have flowers as fine as a camellia4 ,the plant is nearly biennial1 but in rich1 well-drained soil and with winter protection it becomes perennial4 ,easily grown from seed1 blooming the second year4 ,seeds may be sown in ,august in frames and carried over winter in the same place4 ,the first year's bloom is usually the best4 ,yellow ,chamomile1 ,anthemis tinctoria4 #ab-ch in4 ,july-,november4 ,flowers bright yellow1 #a-b in4 in diameter4 ,useful for cutting4 ,dense1 bushy habit4 ,delphinium ,chinense4 #c ft4 ,july-,september4 ,variable colors2 from deep blue to lavender and white4 ,fine for the border4 ,d4 formosum4 #d ft4 ,july-,september4 ,fine spikes of rich blue flowers4 ,one of the finest blue flowers cultivated4 ,funkia lancifolia4 7,see under ,august47 ,helianthus multiflorus99 var4 fl4 pl4 #d ft4 ,july-,september4 ,large double flowers1 of a fine golden color4 ,erect habit4 ,an excellent flower4 ,lychnis ,viscaria var4 flore pleno4 #ab-ae in4 ,july-,august4 ,double1 deep rose-red flowers in spikes4 ,for groups and masses4 ,monarda didyma499 #b ft4 ,july-,october4 ,showy scarlet flowers in terminal heads4 ,pentstemon grandiflorus499 #b ft4 ,july-,august4 ,leafy spikes of showy purple flowers4 ,p4 lvigalus var4 ,digitalis499 #c ft4 ,july-,august4 ,pure white flowers in spikes1 with purple throats4 ,platycodon grandiflorum 7,campanula grandiflora74 #c ft4 ,july-,september4 ,deep blue1 bell-shaped flowers4 ,dense1 fine1 erect habit4 ,p4 ,mariesi4 #a ft4 ,july-,september4 ,flowers larger2 deep violet-blue4 ,heavier foliage4 ,,august ,day ,lily1 ,funkia subcordata4 #ah in4 ,august-,october4 ,trumpet1 lily-like1 pure-white flowers in clusters1 borne upon a stalk from the midst of a group of heart-shaped green leaves4 ,f4 lancifolia var4 albo-marginata4 ,july-,august4 ,lavender flowers4 ,lance-like leaves margined with white4 ,flame ,flower1 ,kniphofia aloides 7,tritoma ,uvaria74 #c ft4 ,august-,september4 ,bright orange-scarlet flowers1 in close1 dense spikes1 at the summit of several scape-like stems4 ,leaves slender1 forming a large tuft4 ,for lawn and borders4 ,hardy only when covered with litter or straw in winter4 ,cardinal ,flower1 ,lobelia cardinalis499 #b-a_/d-d ft4 ,august-,september4 ,flowers intense cardinal-red1 of unrivaled brilliancy4 ,tall spikes4 ,stems clustered2 erect4 ,giant ,daisy1 ,chrysanthemum 7or ,pyrethrum7 uliginosum4 #c-e ft4 ,july-,october4 ,flowers white1 with golden centers4 ,about #b in4 across4 ,a stout1 upright1 bushy plant4 ,useful for cutting4 ,golden ,glow1 ,rudbeckia laciniata499 #f-g ft4 ,august-,september4 ,large double golden-yellow flowers in great profusion4 ,bushy habit4 ,cut off when done flowering4 ,leaves appear at the base and a new crop of flowers1 on stems about #a ft4 high1 appear in ,october4 ,goldenrod1 ,solidago rigida499 #c-e ft4 ,august-,october4 ,flowers large for this genus1 in close1 short racemes in a corymbose-paniculate cluster4 ,fine1 deep yellow4 ,erect habit4 ,one of the best of the goldenrods4 ,,september ,japanese ,wind-flower1 ,anemone ,japonica4 #b ft4 ,august-,october4 ,flowers large1 bright red4 ,one of the best autumn flowers4 ,a4 ,japonica var4 alba4 ,flowers pure white1 with yellow centers4 ,fine for cutting4 ,,october ,hardy ,chrysanthemums4 ,the ,chinese and ,japanese ,chrysanthemums1 so well known1 are hardy in light1 well-drained soils1 if well protected with litter or leaves during the winter1 and in such situations will stand without protection south of ,indianapolis4 ,chrysanthemums are gross feeders1 and should have a rich soil4 ,but there is a race of hardier or border chrysanthemums that is again coming into favor1 and it is sure to give much satisfaction to those who desire flowers in latest fall4 ,these chrysanthemums are much like the 8artemisias0 of our mother's gardens1 although improved in size1 form1 and in range of color4 ,one hundred extra-hardy perennial herbs4 ,the following list of #ajj 8best hardy perennials0 is adapted from a report of the ,central ,experimental ,farm1 ,ottawa1 ,ontario4 ,these plants are chosen from over #ajjj species and varieties that have been on trial at that place4 ,those considered to be the best twenty-five for ,canada are marked by a dagger 2 and those native to ,north ,america by an asterisk 994 ,achillea ,ptarmica flore pleno4--,height1 #a foot2 in bloom fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 small1 pure white1 double1 and borne in clusters2 blooming freely throughout the summer4 ,aconitum autumnale4--,height1 #c to #d feet2 ,september2 flowers1 bluish purple1 borne in loose panicles4 ,aconitum ,napellus4--,height1 #c to #d feet2 ,july2 flowers1 deep blue1 borne on a large terminal spike2 desirable for the rear of the border4 ,adonis vernalis4--,height1 #f to #i inches2 first week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 lemon-yellow1 borne singly from the ends of the stems4 ,agrostemma 7,lychnis7 ,coronaria var4 atropurpurea4--,height1 #a to #b feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 medium size1 bright crimson1 borne singly from the sides and ends of the stems2 a very showy plant with silvery foliage1 and continues to bloom throughout the summer4 ,anemone patens499--,height #f to #i inches2 fourth week of ,april2 flowers1 large1 and deep purple4 ,anthemis tinctoria var4 ,kelwayi4--,height1 #a to #b feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 deep yellow1 borne singly on long stems2 it continues to bloom profusely throughout the summer2 is very showy and valuable for cutting4 ,aquilegia ,canadensis499--,height1 #a to #a-a_/b feet2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 medium size1 red and yellow4 ,aquilegia chrysantha499--,height1 #c to #d feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 bright lemon-yellow1 with long slender spurs2 much later than other columbines4 ,aquilegia crulea499--,height1 #a to #a-a_/b feet2 fourth week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 deep blue with white center and long spurs4 ,aquilegia glandulosa4--,height1 #a foot2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 deep blue with white center and short spurs4 ,aquilegia oxysepala4--,height1 #a foot2 second week in ,may2 flowers1 large1 deep purplish blue with blue and yellow centers2 a very desirable early species4 ,aquilegia ,stuarti4--,height #i to #ab inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 deep blue with white center2 one of the best4 ,arabis alpina4--,height1 #f inches2 first week in ,may2 flowers1 small1 pure white1 in clusters4 ,arnebia echioides4--,height1 #i inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 yellow1 borne in clusters with petals spotted with purple4 ,one of the most charming of early flowering plants4 ,asclepias tuberosa499--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 third week of ,july4 ,flowers1 bright orange1 borne in clusters4 ,very showy4 ,aster alpinus499--,height1 #i inches2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 bright purple1 borne on long stems from the base of the plant2 the earliest flowering of all the asters4 ,aster ,amellus var4 ,bessarabicus4--,height1 #a to #a-a_/b feet2 ,july to ,september2 flowers1 large1 deep purple1 singly on long stems2 very fine4 ,aster ,nov-,angl var4 roseus499--,height1 #e to #g feet2 fourth week of ,august2 flowers1 bright pink1 borne profusely in large terminal clusters2 very showy4 ,boltonia asteroides99--,height1 #d to #e feet2 ,september2 flowers1 smaller than the next1 pale pink1 borne very profusely in large panicles2 much later than the next species4 ,boltonia latisquama99--,height1 #d feet2 first week of ,august2 flowers1 large1 white1 somewhat resembling asters1 and borne very profusely in large panicles4 ,campanula ,carpatica4--,height1 #f to #i inches2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 medium size1 deep blue1 borne profusely in loose panicles2 continues in bloom throughout the summer4 ,a white variety of this is also good4 ,campanula ,grossekii4--,height1 #c feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 deep blue1 borne on a long spike4 ,campanula persicifolia4--,height1 #c feet2 flowers1 large1 blue1 borne in a raceme with long flower stems4 ,there are also white and double varieties which are good4 ,clematis recta4--,height1 #d feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 small1 pure white1 borne profusely in dense clusters4 ,this is a very compact bushy species and desirable for the rear of the border4 ,clematis ,jackmani with large deep purple flowers and ,clematis ,vitalba with small white flowers1 are excellent climbing sorts4 ,convallaria majalis99 7,lily-of-the-valley74--,height1 #f to #i inches2 latter part of ,may4 ,coreopsis delphiniflora499--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 yellow1 with dark centers and borne singly with long stems4 ,coreopsis grandiflora499--,height1 #b to #c feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 deep yellow1 borne singly on long stems1 blooming profusely throughout the summer4 ,coreopsis lanceolata499--,height1 #b feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers large though slightly smaller than the last1 and borne on long stems1 blooming throughout the season4 ,delphinium ,cashmerianum4--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 pale to bright blue1 in large open heads4 ,dianthus plumarius flore pleno4--,height1 #i inches2 second week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 white or pink1 very sweet scented2 and two or three borne on a stem4 ,a variety called ,mrs4 ,simkins is especially desirable1 being very double1 white and deliciously perfumed1 almost equaling a carnation4 ,it blooms the fourth week of ,june4 ,dicentra spectabilis 7,bleeding ,heart74--,height1 #c feet2 second week of ,may2 flowers1 heart-shaped1 red and white in pendulous racemes4 ,dictamnus albus4--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 second week of ,june2 flowers1 white with an aromatic fragrance1 and borne in large terminal racemes4 ,a well-known variety has purple flowers with darker markings4 ,doronicum ,caucasicum4--,height1 #a foot2 second week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 yellow1 and borne singly4 ,doronicum plantagineum var4 excelsum4--,height1 #b feet2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 large and deep yellow4 ,epimedium rubrum4--,height1 #a foot2 second week of ,may2 flowers1 small1 bright crimson and white1 borne in a loose panicle4 ,a very dainty and beautiful little plant4 ,erigeron speciosus499--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 violet-blue1 with yellow centers1 and borne in large clusters on long stems4 ,funkia subcordata 7grandiflora74--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 ,august2 flowers1 large and white1 borne in racemes4 ,the best funkia grown at ,ottawa2 both leaves and flowers are handsome4 ,gaillardia aristata var4 grandiflora499--,height1 #a #a_/b feet2 third week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 yellow1 with deep orange centers1 and borne singly on long stems4 ,the named varieties1 ,superba and ,perfection1 are more highly colored and are of great merit4 ,these all continue blooming profusely until late in the autumn4 ,gypsophila paniculata 7,infant's breath74--,height1 #b feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 small1 white1 borne profusely in large open panicles4 ,helenium autumnale99--,height1 #f to #g feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 deep yellow1 borne in large heads2 very ornamental in late summer4 ,helianthus doronicoides499--,height1 #f to #g feet2 second week of ,august2 flowers1 large1 bright yellow1 and borne singly2 continues blooming for several weeks4 ,helianthus multiflorus499--,height1 #d feet2 flowers1 large1 double1 bright yellow1 and borne singly2 a very striking late-flowering perennial4 ,heuchera sanguinea99--,height1 #a to #a-a_/b feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 small1 bright1 scarlet1 borne in open panicles2 continues blooming throughout the summer4 ,hemerocallis ,dumortierii4--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 second week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 orange-yellow1 with a brownish tinge on the outside1 and three or four on a stem4 ,hemerocallis flava4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 latter part of ,june2 flowers1 bright orange-yellow and fragrant4 ,hemerocallis minor4--,height1 #a to #a-a_/b feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 medium size and yellow2 blooms later than the two preceding species and has a smaller flower and narrower foliage4 ,hibiscus ,moscheutos499--,height1 #e feet2 third week of ,august2 flowers1 very large1 varying in color from white to deep pink4 ,a variety called 8,crimson ,eye0 is very good4 ,this plant makes a fine show in late summer4 ,hypericum ,ascyron 7or pyramidatum7499--,height1 #c feet2 fourth week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 yellow1 and borne singly4 ,iberis sempervirens4--,height1 #f to #ab inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 pure white1 fragrant1 and borne in dense flat clusters4 ,iris ,chamiris4--,height1 #f inches2 fourth week of ,may2 flowers1 bright yellow with brown markings4 ,iris flavescens4--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 lemon-yellow with brown markings4 ,iris ,florentina4--,height1 #b feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 very large1 pale blue or lavender1 sweet scented4 ,iris ,germanica4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 very large1 of elegant form2 color1 deep lilac and bright purple1 sweet scented4 ,there is a large number of choice varieties of this iris4 ,iris lvigata 7,kmpferi74--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 purple and modified colors1 very large and distinct in color and shape4 ,iris pumila4--,height1 #d to #f inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 deep purple4 ,there are several varieties4 ,iris ,sibirica4--,height1 #c to #d feet2 fourth week of ,may2 flowers1 deep blue1 borne on long stems in clusters of two or three4 ,this species has many varieties4 ,iris variegata4--,height1 #a to #a #a_/b feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 yellow and brown1 veined with various shades of brown4 ,lilium auratum4--,height1 #c to #e feet2 ,july2 flowers1 very large1 white1 with a yellow central band on each petal1 and thickly spotted with purple and red4 ,the most showy of all lilies and a splendid flower4 ,this has proved hardy at the ,central ,experimental ,farm1 although it has been reported tender in some localities4 ,lilium ,canadense499--,height1 #b to #c feet2 latter part of ,may2 flowers1 yellow to pale red with reddish spots1 pendulous4 ,lilium elegans4--,height1 #f inches2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 pale red2 several varieties are better than the type4 ,lilium speciosum4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 ,july2 flowers1 large1 white1 tinged and spotted with deep pink and red4 ,hardier than ,lilium auratum and almost as fine4 ,there are several fine varieties4 ,lilium superbum499--,height1 #d to #f feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 very numerous1 orange red1 thickly spotted with dark brown4 ,an admirable lily for the rear of the border4 ,lilium tenuifolium4--,height1 #a #a_/b to #b feet2 third week of ,june2 flowers1 pendulous and bright scarlet4 ,one of the most graceful of all lilies4 ,lilium tigrinum4--,height1 #b to #d feet2 flowers1 large1 deep orange1 spotted thickly with purplish black4 ,linum perenne4--,height1 #a #a_/b feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 large deep blue1 borne in loose panicles1 continuing throughout the summer4 ,lobelia cardinalis499--,height1 #b to #c feet2 ,august2 flowers1 bright scarlet1 borne in terminal racemes2 very showy4 ,lychnis ,chalcedonica flore pleno4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 bright crimson1 double1 and borne in terminal racemes4 ,lysimachia clethroides4--,height1 #c feet2 fourth week of ,july2 flowers1 white1 borne in long spikes4 ,a very striking late-flowering perennial4 ,myosotis alpestris4--,height1 #f inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 small1 bright blue with a yellowish eye4 ,a very profuse bloomer4 nothera ,missouriensis499--,height1 #a foot2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 very large1 rich yellow1 and borne singly1 throughout the summer4 ,ponia officinalis4--,height1 #b to #d feet2 early part of ,july4 ,the double-flowered varieties are the best1 and can be obtained in several colors and shades1 ,papaver nudicaule99--,height1 #a foot2 second week of ,may2 flowers1 medium size1 orange1 white1 or yellow1 almost continuously until late autumn4 ,papaver orientale4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,june2 flowers1 very large1 scarlet1 and variously marked1 according to variety1 there being many forms4 ,pentstemon barbatus var4 ,torreyi499--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 deep red1 borne in long spikes1 very ornamental4 ,phlox amna499--,height1 #f inches2 second week of ,may2 flowers1 medium size1 bright pink1 in compact clusters4 ,phlox decussata99 7the garden perennial hybrids74--,height1 #a to #c feet2 third week of ,july2 flowers1 of many beautiful shades and colors1 are found in the large number of named varieties of this phlox1 which continues to bloom until late in the autumn4 ,phlox reptans499--,height1 #d inches2 fourth week of ,may2 flowers1 medium size1 purple1 and borne in small clusters4 ,phlox subulata99 7setacea74--,height1 #f inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 medium size1 deep pink1 and borne in small clusters4 ,platycodon grandiflorum4--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 very large1 deep blue1 borne singly or in twos4 ,platycodon grandiflorum var4 album4--,a white-flowered variety of the above and makes a fine contrast to it when they are grown together4 ,it blooms a few days earlier than the species4 ,platycodon ,mariesii4--,height1 #a foot2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 large and deep blue4 ,polemonium cruleum499--,height1 #b feet2 second week of ,june2 flowers1 deep blue1 borne in terminal spikes4 ,polemonium reptans499--,height1 #f inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 medium in size1 blue1 and borne profusely in loose clusters4 ,polemonium ,richardsoni499--,height1 #f inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 medium in size1 blue1 borne profusely in pendulous panicles4 ,potentilla hybrida var4 versicolor4--,height1 #a foot2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 large1 deep orange and yellow1 semi-double4 ,primula cortusoides4--,height1 #i inches2 third week of ,may2 flowers1 small1 deep rose1 in compact heads4 ,pyrethrum 7or ,chrysanthemum7 uliginosum4--,height1 #d feet2 ,september2 flowers1 large1 white with yellow centers1 and borne singly on long stems4 ,rudbeckia laciniata99 7,golden ,glow74--,height1 #e to #f feet2 ,august2 flowers1 large1 lemon-yellow1 double1 and borne on long stems4 ,one of the best of lately introduced perennials4 ,rudbeckia maxima499--,height1 #e to #f feet2 ,july and ,august2 flowers1 large1 with a long cone-shaped center and bright yellow rays1 and borne singly4 ,the whole plant is very striking4 ,scabiosa ,caucascia4--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 large1 light blue1 and borne singly on long stems1 very freely throughout remainder of the summer4 ,solidago ,canadensis99 7,golden-rod74--,height1 #c to #e feet2 first week of ,august2 flowers1 small1 golden yellow1 and borne in dense panicles4 ,spira 7properly ,aruncus7 astilboides4--,height1 #b feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 small1 white1 very numerous1 and borne in many branched panicles4 ,both foliage and flowers are ornamental4 ,spira 7or ,ulmaria7 ,filipendula4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 third week of ,june2 flowers1 pure white1 borne profusely in loose panicles4 ,the foliage of this species is also very good4 ,there is a double flowered variety which is very effective4 ,spira 7,ulmaria7 purpurea var4 elegans4--,height1 #b to #c feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 whitish with crimson anthers1 borne very profusely in panicles4 ,spira ,ulmaria 7,ulmaria pentapetala74--,height1 #c to #d feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 very numerous1 dull white1 borne in large compound heads1 having a soft1 feathery appearance4 ,spira venusta 7,ulmaria rubra var4 venusta74--,height1 #d feet2 second week of ,july2 flowers1 small1 bright pink1 borne profusely in large panicles4 ,statice latifolia4--,height1 #a-a_/b feet2 first week of ,july2 flowers1 small1 blue1 borne very profusely in loose panicles4 ,very effective in the border4 ,thalictrum aquilegifolium4--,height1 #d to #e feet2 fourth week of ,june2 flowers1 small1 white to purplish1 very numerous and borne in large panicles4 ,trollius ,europs4--,height1 #a-a_/b to #b feet2 fourth week of ,may2 flowers1 large1 bright yellow1 continuing a long time4 #d4 ,,bulbs ,,and ,,tubers 7,see the particular culture of the different kinds in ,chapter ,,viii2 and instructions for forcing on 99p4 #cde47 ,it is customary to write of bulbs and tubers together1 because the tops and flowers of all the bulbous and tuberous plants spring from large reservoirs of stored food1 giving rise to similar methods of culture and of storage4 ,structurally1 the bulb is very different from the tuber1 however4 ,a bulb is practically a large dormant bud1 the scales representing the leaves1 and the embryo stem lying in the center4 ,bulbs are condensed plants in storage4 ,the tuber1 on the other hand1 is a solid body1 with buds arising from it4 ,some tubers represent thickened stems1 as the ,irish potato1 and some thickened roots1 as probably the sweet-potato1 and some both stem and root1 as the turnip1 parsnip1 and beet4 ,some tubers are very bulb-like in appearance1 as the corms of crocus and gladiolus4 ,using the word 8bulb0 in the gardener's sense to include all these plants as a cultural group1 we may throw them into two classes3 the hardy kinds1 to be planted in fall2 and the tender kinds1 to be planted in spring4 ,fall-planted bulbs4 ,the fall-planted bulbs are of two groups3 the 8,holland bulbs0 or early spring bloomers1 as crocus1 tulip 7,fig4 #bee71 hyacinth 7,fig4 #bfb71 narcissus 7,fig4 #bfj71 squill 7,fig4 #bef71 snowdrop2 the summer bloomers1 as lilies 7,figs4 #beh1 #bei74 ,the treatments of the two groups are so similar that they may be discussed together4 ,illustration ,fig3 #bee4 ,tulips1 the warmest of spring flowers4 ,all these bulbs may be planted as soon as they are mature2 but in practice they are kept till late ,september or ,october before they are put into the ground1 as nothing is gained by earlier planting1 and1 moreover1 the ground is usually not ready to receive them until some other crop is removed4 ,illustration3 ,fig #bef4 ,one of the squills4--,scilla bifolia4 ,these bulbs are planted in the fall 7#a7 because they keep better in the ground than when stored2 7#b7 because they will take root in fall and winter and be ready for the first warmth of spring2 7#c7 and because it is usually impossible to get on the ground early enough in spring to plant them with much hope of success for that season4 ,the bulbs lie dormant until spring1 so far as outward appearances go2 they are mulched to insure that they will not start in warm weather of fall or winter1 and to protect the ground from heaving4 ,to secure good bulbs and of the desired varieties1 the order should be placed in spring or early summer4 ,for flower-garden effects1 the large and mature bulbs should be secured2 for colonizing in shrubbery or on the lawn1 the smaller sizes may be sufficient4 ,insist that your bulbs shall be first class1 for there is wide difference in the quality2 even with the best of treatment1 good results cannot be secured from poor bulbs4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beg4 ,a purple-flowered ,amaryllis4--,lycoris squamigera1 but known as ,amaryllis ,hallii4 ,it is not generally known that there are autumn-flowering bulbs4 ,several species of crocus bloom in the fall1 ,c4 sativus 7the saffron crocus7 and ,c4 speciosus being the ones generally recommended4 ,the colchicums are excellent autumn-blooming bulbs and should be more generally planted4 ,c4 autumnale1 rosy purple1 is the usual species4 ,these autumn-blooming bulbs are planted in ,august or early ,september and treated in general the same as other similar bulbs4 ,the colchicums usually remain in the ground several years in good condition4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #beh4 ,the ,japanese gold-banded lily4--,lilium auratum ,all kinds of bulbs are partial to a deep1 rich1 water-free soil4 ,this is no small part of their successful culture4 ,the spot should be well drained1 either naturally or artificially4 ,in flattish and rather moist lands the beds may be made above the surface1 some #ah inches high1 and bordered with grass4 ,a layer of rough stones a foot deep is sometimes used in the bottom of ordinary beds for drainage1 and with good results1 when other methods are not convenient1 and when there is fear that the bed may become too wet4 ,if the place is likely to be rather wet1 place a large handful of sand where the bulb is to go and set the bulb on it4 ,this will keep the water from standing around the bulb4 ,very good results may be had in heavy soil by this method4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bei4 ,one of the common wild lilies4--,lilium ,philadelphicum4 ,the soil for bulbs should be well enriched with old manure4 ,fresh manure should never be allowed close about the bulb4 ,the addition of leafmold and a little sand also improves the texture of heavy soils4 ,for lilies the leafmold may be omitted4 ,let the spading be at least a foot deep4 ,eighteen inches will be none too deep for lilies4 ,to make a bulb bed1 throw out the top earth to the depth of #f inches4 ,put into the bottom of the bed about #b inches of well-rotted manure and spade it into the soil4 ,throw back half of the top soil1 level it off nicely1 set the bulbs firmly on this bed1 and then cover them with the remainder of the earth2 in this way one will have the bulbs from #c to #d inches below the surface1 and they will all be of uniform depth and will give uniform results if the bulbs themselves are well graded4 ,the 8design0 bed may be worked out easily in this way1 for all the bulbs are fully exposed after they are placed1 and they are all covered at once4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfj4 ,common species of narcissus4--a a4 ,narcissus ,pseudo-,narcissus or daffodil2 b4 ,jonquil2 c4 ,n4 ,pticus4 ,of course1 it is not necessary that the home gardener go to the trouble of removing the earth and replacing it if he merely wants good blooms2 but if he wants a good bed as a whole1 or a mass effect1 he should take this pains4 ,in the shrubberies and on the lawn he may 8stick them in0 here and there1 seeing that the top of the bulb is #c to #f inches beneath the surface1 the depth depending on the size of the bulb 7the bigger and stronger the bulb1 the deeper it may go7 and on the nature of the soil 7they may go deeper in sand than in hard clay74 ,as the time of severe winter freezing approaches1 the bed should receive a mulch of leaves1 manure or litter1 to the depth of #d inches or more1 according to the latitude and the kind of material4 ,if leaves are used1 #c inches will be enough1 because the leaves lie close together and may smother out the frost that is in the ground and let the bulbs start4 ,it will be well to let the mulch extend #a foot or more beyond the margins of the bed4 ,when cold weather is past1 half of the mulch should be removed4 ,the remainder may be left on till there is no longer danger of frost4 ,on removing the last of the mulch1 lightly work over the surface among the bulbs with a thrust-hoe4 ,if the weather happens to be very bright during the blooming season1 the duration of the flowers may be prolonged by light shading--as with muslin1 or slats placed above the beds4 ,if planted where they have partial shade from surrounding trees or shrubbery1 the beds will not need attention of this kind4 ,lilies may remain undisturbed for years4 ,crocuses and tulips may stand two years1 but hyacinths should be taken up each year and replanted2 tulips also will be better for the same treatment4 ,narcissus may remain for some years1 or until they show signs of running out4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfa4 ,the ,belladonna lily4--,amaryllis ,belladonna4 ,bulbs that are to be taken up should be left in the ground till the foliage turns yellow1 or dies down naturally4 ,this gives the bulbs a chance to ripen4 ,cutting off the foliage and digging too early is a not uncommon and serious mistake4 ,bulbs that have been planted in places that are wanted for summer bedding plants may be dug with the foliage on and heeled-in under a tree1 or along a fence1 to stand till ripened4 ,the plant should be injured as little as possible1 as the foliage of this year makes the flowers of the next4 ,when the foliage has turned yellow or died down1 the bulbs--after cleaning1 and curing them for a few hours in the sun--may be stored in the cellar or other cool1 dry place1 to await fall planting4 ,bulbs that are lifted prematurely in this way should be planted permanently in the borders1 for they will not make good flower-garden subjects the following year4 ,in fact1 it is usually best to buy fresh1 strong bulbs each year of tulips1 hyacinths1 and crocuses if the best results are desired1 using the old bulbs for shrubberies and mixed borders4 ,crocuses and squills are often planted in the lawn4 ,it is not to be expected that they will last more than two to three years1 however1 even if care is taken not to cut the tops closely when the lawn is cut4 ,the narcissus 7including daffodils and jonquils7 will remain in good condition for years in grassy parts of the place1 if the tops are allowed to mature4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfb4 ,the common ,dutch hyacinth4 ,list of outdoor fall-planted bulbs for the ,north4 ,crocus4 ,hyacinth4 ,tulip4 ,narcissus 7including daffodil and jonquil74 ,scilla1 or squill4 ,snowdrop 7,galanthus74 ,snowflake 7,leucoium74 ,chionodoxa4 ,hardy alliums4 ,bulbocodium4 ,camassia4 ,lily-of-the-valley4 ,winter aconite 7,eranthis hycmalis74 ,dog-tooth violets 7,erythronium74 ,crown imperial 7,fritillaria ,imperialis74 ,fritillary 7,fritillaria ,mekagris74 ,trilliums4 ,lilies4 ,peonies1 tuberous anemones1 tuberous buttercups1 iris1 bleeding heart1 and the like1 may be planted in autumn and are often classed with fall-planted bulbs4 ,winter bulbs 7p4 #cde74 ,some of these bulbs may be made to bloom in the greenhouse1 window-garden1 or living room in winter4 ,hyacinths are particularly useful for this purpose1 because the bloom is less affected by cloudy weather than that of tulips and crocuses4 ,some kinds of narcissus also 8force0 well1 particularly the daffodil2 and the ,paper-white and 8,chinese sacred lily0 are practically the only common bulbs from which the home gardener may expect good bloom before ,christmas4 ,the method of handling bulbs for winter bloom is described under ,window-gardening 7on 99p4 #cde74 ,summer bulbs4 ,there is nothing special to be said of the culture of the so-called summer-blooming and spring-planted bulbs1 as a class4 ,they are tender1 and are therefore planted after cold weather is past4 ,for early bloom1 they may be started indoors4 ,of course1 any list of spring-planted bulbs is relative to the climate1 for what may be planted in spring in ,new ,york perhaps may be planted in the fall in ,georgia4 ,the common 8summer bulbs0 are3-- ,gladiolus ,tuberose ,dahlia ,canna ,arum ,calla ,calochortus ,alstremeria ,amaryllis ,colocasia #e4 ,,the ,,shrubbery 7,exclusive of coniferous evergreens and climbing plants47 ,the common hardy shrubs or bushes may be planted in fall or spring4 ,in the northernmost parts of the country and in ,canada spring planting is usually safer1 although on well-drained ground and when thoroughly mulched the plants may even there do well if planted as soon as the leaves drop in fall4 ,if the shrubs are purchased in spring1 they are likely to have come from 8cellared stock02 that is1 the nurserymen dig much of their stock in fall and store it in cellars built for the purpose4 ,while stock that is properly cellared is perfectly reliable1 that which has been allowed to get too dry or which has been otherwise improperly handled comes on very slowly in the spring1 makes a poor growth the first year1 and much of it may die4 ,in the planting of any kind of trees or shrubs1 it is well to remember that nursery-grown specimens generally transplant more readily and thrive better than trees taken from the wild2 and this is particularly true if the stock was transplanted in the nursery4 ,trees that transplant with difficulty1 as the papaw or asimina1 and some nut trees1 may be prepared for removal by cutting some of their roots--and especially the tap-root1 if they have such--a year or two in advance4 ,,xiii4 ,the pageant of summer4 ,,xiii4 ,the pageant of summer4 ,gardens of ,c4 ,w4 ,dowdeswell1 ,england1 from a painting by ,miss ,parsons4 ,for permission to reproduce the above picture we are indebted to the kindness of ,messrs4 ,sutton ,sons1 ,seed ,merchants1 ,reading1 ,england1 the owners of the copyright1 who published it in their ,amateur's ,guide in ,horticulture for #aiji4 ,it is ordinarily best to plow or spade the entire area in which the shrubs are to be set4 ,for a year or two the ground should be tilled between the shrubs1 either by horse tools or by hoes and rakes4 ,if the place looks bare1 seeds of quick-growing flowers may be scattered about the edges of the mass1 or herbaceous perennials may be used4 ,the larger shrubs1 as lilacs and syringas1 may be set about #d feet apart2 but the smaller ones should be set about #b feet apart if it is desired to secure an immediate effect4 ,if after a few years the mass becomes too crowded1 some of the specimens may be removed 799p4 #gf74 ,throw the shrubs into an irregular plantation1 not in rows1 and make the inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken4 ,it is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with light manure1 leaf mold1 or other material4 ,even though the shrubs are perfectly hardy1 this mulch greatly improves the land and promotes growth4 ,after the shrub borders have become two or three years old1 the drifting leaves of fall will be caught therein and will be held as a mulch 7p4 #hb74 ,when the shrubs are first planted1 they are headed back one half or more 7,fig4 #de72 but after they are established they are not to be sheared1 but allowed to take their own way1 and after a few years the outermost ones will droop and meet the green99-sward 799pp4 #be1 #bf74 ,many rapid-growing trees may be utilized as shrubs by cutting them off near the ground every year1 or every other year1 and allowing young shoots to grow4 ,basswood1 black ash1 some of the maples1 tulip tree1 mulberry1 ailanthus1 paulownia1 magnolias1 ,acer campestre1 and others may be treated in this way 7,fig4 #ej74 ,nearly all shrubs bloom in spring or early summer4 ,if kinds blooming late in summer or in fall are desired1 they maybe looked for in baccharis1 caryopteris1 cephalanthus1 clethra1 hamamelis1 hibiscus1 hydrangea1 hypericum1 lespedeza1 rhus 7,r4 ,cotinus71 ,sambucus ,canadensis in midsummer1 tamarisk4 ,plants that bloom in very early spring 7not mentioning such as birches1 alders1 and hazels7 may be found in amelanchier1 cydonia1 daphne1 dirca1 forsythia1 cercis 7in tree list71 benzoin1 lonicera 7,l4 fragrantissima71 salix 7,s4 discolor and other pussy willows71 shepherdia4 ,shrubs bearing conspicuous berries1 pods1 and the like1 that persist in fall or winter may be found in the genera berberis 7particularly ,b4 ,thunbergii71 colutea1 corylus1 cratgus1 euonymus1 ilex1 physocarpus1 ostrya1 ptelea1 pyracantha 7,plate ,,xix7 pyrus1 rhodotypos1 rosa 7,r4 rugosa71 staphylea1 symphoricarpus1 viburnum1 xanthoceras4 ,list of shrubbery plants for the ,north4 ,the following list of shrubs 7of course not complete7 comprises a selection with particular reference to southern ,michigan and central ,new ,york1 where the mercury sometimes falls to fifteen degrees below zero4 ,application is also made to ,canada by designating species that have been found to be hardy at ,ottawa4 ,the list is arranged alphabetically by the names of the genera4 ,the 99 denotes that the plant is native to ,north ,america4 ,the indicates species that are recommended by the ,central ,experimental ,farms1 ,ottawa1 ,ontario4 ,it is often difficult to determine whether a group should be listed among shrubs or trees4 ,sometimes the plant is not quite a tree and is yet something more than a shrub or bush2 sometimes the plant may be distinctly a tree in its southern range and a shrub in its northern range2 sometimes the same genus or group contains both shrubs and trees4 ,in the following genera there are doubtful cases3 sculus1 alnus1 amelanchier1 betula1 caragana1 castanea1 cornus 7,c4 florida71 cratgus1 elagnus1 prunus1 robinia4 ,dwarf buckeye1 sculus parviflora 7,pavia macrostachya7499 ,attractive in habit1 foliage1 and flower2 produces a large foliage mass4 ,alder4 ,several bushy species of alder are good lawn or border subjects1 particularly in wet places or along streams1 as ,a4 viridis199 ,a4 rugosa199 ,a4 incana199 and others4 ,june-berry1 ,amelanchier ,canadensis99 and others4 ,flowers profusely in spring before the leaves appear2 some of them become small trees4 ,azalea1 ,azalea viscosa99 and ,a4 nudiflora499 ,require partial shade1 and a woodsy soil4 ,japanese azalea1 ,a4 mollis 7or ,a4 ,sinensis74 ,showy red and yellow or orange flowers2 hardy north4 ,groundsel tree1 8white myrtle10 ,baccharis halimifolia499 ,native on the ,atlantic seashore1 but grows well when planted inland2 valuable for its white fluffy 8bloom0 7pappus7 in latest fall2 #d-aj ft4 ,spice-bush1 ,benzoin odoriferum 7,lindera ,benzoin9974 ,very early-blooming bush of wet places1 the yellow1 clustered1 small flowers preceding the leaves2 #f-aj ft4 ,barberry1 ,berberis vulgaris4 ,common barberry2 #d-f ft4 ,the purple-leaved form 7var4 purpurea7 is popular4 ,thunberg's barberry1 ,b4 ,thunbergii4 ,one of the best of lawn and border shrubs1 with compact and attractive habit1 deep red autumn foliage and bright scarlet berries in profusion in fall and winter2 excellent for low hedges2 #b-d ft4 ,mahonia1 ,berberis ,aquifolium499 ,evergreen2 needs some protection in exposed places2 #a-c ft4 ,dwarf birch1 ,betula pumila499 ,desirable for low places2 #c-aj ft4 ,box1 ,buxus sempervirens4 ,an evergreen shrub1 useful for hedges and edgings in cities2 several varieties1 some of them very dwarf4 ,see page #bbj4 ,carolina allspice1 sweet-scented shrub1 ,calycanthus floridus499 ,dull purple1 very fragrant flowers2 #c-h ft4 ,siberian pea-tree1 ,caragana arborescens4 ,flowers pea-like1 yellow1 in ,may2 very hardy2 #aj-ae feet4 ,small pea-tree1 ,c4 pygma4 ,very small1 #a-c ft1 but sometimes grafted on ,c4 arborescens4 ,shrubby pea-tree1 ,c4 frutescens4 ,flowers larger than those of ,c4 arborescens2 #c-aj ft4 ,large-flowered pea-tree1 ,c4 grandiflora4 ,larger-flowered than the last1 which it resembles2 #d ft4 ,blue spirea1 ,caryopteris ,mastacanthus4 ,flowers bright blue1 in late summer and fall2 #b-d ft41 but is likely to die to ground in winter4 ,chinquapin or dwarf chestnut1 ,castanea pumila499 ,becomes a small tree1 but usually bushy4 ,ceanothus1 ,ceanothus ,americanus499 ,a very small native shrub1 desirable for dry places under trees2 #b-c ft4 ,there are many good ,european garden forms of ceanothus1 but not hardy in the northern states4 ,button-bush1 ,cephalanthus occidentalis499 ,blossoms in ,july and ,august2 desirable for water-courses and other low places2 #d-aj ft4 ,fringe tree1 ,chionanthus ,virginica499 ,shrub as large as lilac1 or becoming tree-like1 with fringe-like white flowers in spring4 ,white alder1 ,clethra alnifolia499 ,a very fine1 hardy shrub1 producing very fragrant flowers in ,july and ,august2 should be better known2 #d-aj ft4 ,bladder senna1 ,colutea arborescens4 ,pea-like yellowish flowers in ,june1 and big inflated pods2 #h-ab ft4 ,european osier1 ,cornus alba 7known also as ,c4 ,sibirica and ,c4 ,tatarica74 ,branches deep red2 #d-h ft42 the variegated form has leaves edged white4 ,bailey's osier1 ,cornus ,baileyi499 ,probably the finest of the native osiers for color of twigs and foliage2 #e-h ft4 ,red-twigged osier1 ,cornus stolonifera499 ,the red twigs are very showy in winter2 #e to #h ft42 some bushes are brighter in color than others4 ,flowering dogwood1 ,c4 florida499 ,very showy tree or big shrub1 desirable for borders of groups and belts4 ,a red-flowered variety is on the market4 ,cornelian ,cherry1 ,cornus ,mas4 ,becoming a small tree1 #ae-bj ft42 flowers numerous in bunches1 yellow1 before the leaves2 fruit1 cherry-like1 edible1 red4 ,hazel or filbert1 ,corylus maxima var4 purpurea4 ,a well-known purple-leaved shrub1 usually catalogued as ,c4 ,avellana purpurea4 ,the eastern ,american species 7,c4 ,americana99 and ,c4 rostrata997 are also interesting4 ,cotoneaster4 ,several species of cotoneaster are suitable for cultivation in the middle and southern latitudes4 ,they are allied to cratgus4 ,some are evergreen4 ,some kinds bear handsome persistent fruits4 ,wild thorns1 ,cratgus punctata199 ,c4 coccinea199 ,c4 ,crus-galli199 and others4 ,the native thorn apples or hawthorns1 of numerous species1 are amongst our best large shrubs for planting and should be much better known2 #f-bj ft4 ,japanese quince1 ,cydonia 7or ,pyrus7 ,japonica4 ,an old favorite blooming in earliest spring1 in advance of the leaves2 not hardy at ,lansing1 ,mich42 #d-e ft4 ,maule's ,japanese quince1 ,c4 ,maulei4 ,bright red2 fruit handsome2 hardier than ,c4 ,japonica2 #a-c ft4 ,daphne1 ,daphne ,mezereum4 ,produces rose-purple or white flowers in abundance in earliest spring before the leaves appear4 ,should be planted on the edges of groups2 leaves deciduous2 #a-d ft4 ,garland flower1 ,d4 ,cneorum4 ,pink flowers in very early spring and again in autumn2 leaves evergreen2 #a-a_/b ft4 ,deutzia1 ,deutzia scabra 7or crenata7 and varieties4 ,standard shrubs2 the variety 8,pride of ,rochester10 with pinkish flowers1 is perhaps the best form for the ,north2 #d-f ft4 ,of this and the next there are forms with ornamental foliage4 ,small deutzia1 ,d4 gracilis4 ,very close little bush1 with pure white flowers2 #b-c ft4 ,lemoine's deutzia1 ,d4 ,lemoinei4 ,a hybrid1 very desirable2 #a-c ft4 ,weigela1 ,diervilla ,japonica and other species4 ,free bloomers1 very fine1 in many colors1 #d-f ft42 the forms known as ,candida1 rosea1 ,sieboldii variegata1 are hardy and good4 ,leatherwood1 ,dirca palustris499 ,if well grown1 the leatherwood makes a very neat plant2 blossoms appear before the leaves1 but not showy2 #d-f ft4 ,russian olive1 oleaster1 ,elagnus angustifolia4 ,foliage silvery white2 very hardy2 becoming a small tree1 #ae-bj ft4 ,wolf-willow1 ,e4 argentea499 ,large and silvery leaves2 suckers badly2 #h-ab ft4 ,goumi1 ,e4 longipes 7sometimes called ,e4 edulis74 ,attractive spreading bush1 with handsome edible cranberry-like berries2 #e-f ft4 ,burning-bush1 ,euonymus atropurpureus499 ,very attractive in fruit2 #h-ab ft41 or even becoming tree-like4 ,several other species are in cultivation1 some of them evergreen4 ,in the ,north1 success may be expected with ,e4 ,europus 7sometimes a small tree71 ,e4 alatus1 ,e4 ,bungeanus1 ,e4 latifolius1 and perhaps others4 ,exochorda1 ,exochorda grandiflora4 ,a large and very showy shrub1 producing a profusion of apple-like white flowers in early spring2 #f-ab ft2 allied to the spireas4 ,forsythia1 ,forsythia viridissima4 ,blossoms yellow1 appearing before the leaves2 requires protection in many places ,north2 #f-aj ft4 ,drooping forsythia1 ,f4 suspensa4 ,makes an attractive mass on a bank or border2 #f-ab ft4 ,dyer's weed1 ,genista tinctoria4 ,yellow pea-like flowers in ,june2 #a-c ft4 ,silver-bell tree1 ,halesia tetraptera499 ,bell-shaped white flowers in ,may2 #h-aj ft4 ,witch hazel1 ,hamamelis ,virginiana499 ,blossoms in ,october and ,november2 unique and desirable if well grown2 #h-ab ft4 ,althea1 ,rose of ,sharon1 ,hibiscus ,syriacus 7,altha frutex74 ,in many forms1 purple1 red1 and white1 and perhaps the best of late summer-blooming shrubs2 #h-ab ft4 ,hydrangea1 ,hydrangea paniculata1 var4 grandiflora4 ,one of the best and most showy small flowering shrubs2 #d-aj ft4 ,downy hydrangea1 ,h4 radiata499 ,attractive in both foliage and flower4 ,oak-leaved hydrangea1 ,h4 quercifolia499 ,this is especially valuable for its luxuriant foliage2 even if killed to the ground in winter1 it is still worth cultivating for its strong shoots4 ,the greenhouse hydrangea 7,h4 hortensis in many forms7 may be used as an outdoor subject in the ,south4 ,st4 ,john's wort1 ,hypericum ,kalmianum199 ,h4 prolificum199 and ,h4 ,moserianum4 ,small undershrubs1 producing bright yellow flowers in profusion in ,july and ,august2 #b-d ft4 ,winter-berry1 ,ilex verticillata499 ,produces showy red berries1 that persist through the winter2 should be massed in rather low ground2 flowers imperfect2 #f-h ft4 ,the evergreen hollies are not suitable for cultivation in the ,north2 but in the warmer latitudes1 the ,american holly 7,ilex opaca71 ,english holly 7,i4 ,aquifolium71 and ,japanese holly 7,i4 crenata7 may be grown4 ,there are several native species4 ,mountain laurel1 ,kalmia latifolia499 ,one of the best shrubs in cultivation1 evergreen1 #e-aj ft41 or even becoming a small tree south2 usually profits by partial shade2 thrives in a peaty or loamy rather loose soil1 and said to be averse to limestone and clay2 extensively transferred from the wild for landscape effects in large private places2 should thrive as far north as it grows wild4 ,kerria1 corchorus1 ,kerria ,japonica4 ,a bramble-like shrub1 producing attractive yellow single or double flowers from ,july until ,september2 twigs very green in winter4 ,there is a variegated-leaved form4 ,good for banks and borders2 #b-c ft4 ,sand myrtle1 ,leiophyllum buxifolium499 ,evergreen1 more or less procumbent2 #b-c ft4 ,lespedeza1 ,lespedeza bicolor4 ,reddish or purple small flowers in late summer and fall2 #d-h ft4 ,lespedeza1 ,l4 ,sieboldii 7,desmodium penduliflorum74 ,rose-purple large flowers in fall2 killed to the ground in winter1 but it blooms the following year2 #d-e ft4 ,lespedeza1 ,l4 ,japonica 7,desmodium ,japonicum74 ,flowers white1 later than those of ,l4 ,sieboldii2 springs up from the root4 ,privet1 ,ligustrum vulgare1 ,l4 ovalifolium 7,l4 ,californicum71 and ,l4 ,amurense4 ,much used for low hedges and borders2 #d-ab ft42 several other species4 ,tartarian honeysuckle1 ,lonicera ,tatarica4 ,one of the most chaste and comely of shrubs2 #f-aj ft42 pink-flowered2 several varieties4 ,regel's honeysuckle1 ,l4 spinosa 7,l4 ,alberti74 ,blooms a little later than above1 pink2 #b-d ft4 ,fragrant honeysuckle1 ,l4 fragrantissima4 ,flowers exceedingly fragrant1 preceding leaves2 #b-f ft42 one of the earliest things to bloom in spring4 ,there are other upright honeysuckles1 all interesting4 ,mock-orange 7,syringa incorrectly71 ,philadelphus coronarius4 ,in many forms and much prized2 #f-ab ft4 ,other species are in cultivation1 but the garden nomenclature is confused4 ,the forms known as ,p4 speciosus1 ,p4 grandiflorus1 and var4 speciosissimus are good2 also the species ,p4 pubescens199 ,p4 ,gordonianus199 and ,p4 microphyllus199 the last being dwarf1 with small white very fragrant flowers4 ,nine-bark1 ,physocarpus opulifolius 7,spira opulifolia7499 ,a good vigorous hardy bush1 with clusters of interesting pods following the flowers2 the var4 aurea is one of the best yellow-leaved shrubs2 #f-aj ft4 ,andromeda1 ,pieris floribunda499 ,a small ericaceous evergreen2 should have some protection from the winter sun2 for this purpose1 it may be planted on the north side of a clump of trees2 #b-f;ft4 ,shrubby cinquefoil1 ,potentilla fruticosa499 ,foliage ashy2 flowers yellow1 in ,june2 #b-d ft4 ,sand cherry1 ,prunus pumila99 and ,p4 ,besseyi499 ,the sand cherry of sandy shores grows #e-h ft42 the western sand cherry 7,p4 ,besseyi7 is more spreading and is grown for its fruit4 ,the ,european dwarf cherry 7,p4 fruticosa7 is #b-d ft41 with white flowers in umbels4 ,flowering almond1 ,prunus ,japonica4 ,in its double-flowered form1 familiar for its early bloom2 #c-e ft2 often grafted on other stocks1 which are liable to sprout and become troublesome4 ,hop-tree1 ,ptelea trifoliata499 ,very interesting when bearing its roundish winged fruits2 #h-aj ft41 but becoming larger and tree-like4 ,buckthorn1 ,rhamnus cathartica4 ,much used for hedges2 #h-ab ft4 ,alpine buckthorn1 ,r4 alpina4 ,foliage attractive2 #e-f ft4 ,rhododendron1 ,rhododendron ,catawbiense99 and garden varieties4 ,hardy in well-adapted locations1 #c-h ft41 and higher in its native regions4 ,great laurel1 ,r4 maximum99 ,a fine species for mass planting1 native as far north as southern ,canada4 ,extensively transplanted from the wild4 ,white kerria1 ,rhodotypos kerrioides4 ,white flowers in ,may and blackish fruit2 #c-e ft4 ,smoke-tree 7,fringe-tree erroneously71 ,rhus ,cotinus4 ,one of the best shrubs for massing2 two colors are grown2 the billowy 8bloom10 holding late in the season1 is composed of flower stems rather than flowers2 size of large lilac bushes4 ,dwarf sumac1 ,r4 copallina499 ,attractive in foliage1 and especially conspicuous in autumn from the brilliant red of its leaves2 #c-e ft41 sometimes much taller4 ,sumac1 smooth and hairy1 ,r4 glabra99 and ,r4 typhina499 ,useful for the borders of large groups and belts4 ,they may be cut down every year and allowed to sprout 7as in ,fig4 #ej74 ,the young tops are handsomest4 ,r4 glabra is the finer species for this purpose4 ,they usually grow #aj-ae ft4 tall4 ,osbeck's sumac1 ,r4 semialata var4 ,osbeckii4 ,strong bush1 #aj-bj ft41 with leaf-rachis strongly winged1 the foliage pinnately compound4 ,flowering1 or fragrant currant1 ,ribes aureum499 ,well known and popular1 for its sweet-scented yellow flowers in ,may2 #e-h ft4 ,red-flowering currant1 ,r4 sanguineum499 ,flowers red and attractive2 #e-f ft4 ,r4 ,gordonianum1 recommendable1 is a hybrid between ,r4 sanguineum and ,r4 aureum4 ,rose acacia1 ,robinia hispida499 ,very showy in bloom2 #h-aj;ft4 ,roses1 ,rosa1 various species4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfc4 ,rosa rugosa4 ,hardy roses are not always desirable for the lawn4 ,for general lawn purposes the older sorts1 single or semi-double1 and which do not require high culture1 are to be preferred4 ,it is not intended to include here the common garden roses2 see ,chapter ,,viii for these4 ,it is much to be desired that the wild roses receive more attention from planters4 ,attention has been too exclusively taken by the highly improved garden roses4 ,japanese rose1 ,rosa rugosa4 ,most excellent for lawn planting1 as the foliage is thick and not attacked by insects 7,fig4 #bfc72 white and pink flowered forms2 #d-f ft4 ,wild swamp rose1 ,r4 ,carolina499 #e-h ft4 ,wild dwarf rose1 ,r4 humilis99 7,r4 lucida of ,michigan74 ,this and other wild dwarf roses1 #c-f ft41 may be useful in landscape work4 ,say's ,rose1 ,r4 acicularis var4 ,sayi499 ,excellent for lawns2 #d-e ft4 ,red-leaved rose1 ,r4 ferruginea 7,r4 rubrifolia74 ,excellent foliage2 flowers single1 pink2 #e-f ft4 ,japanese bramble1 ,rubus cratgifolius4 ,valuable for holding banks2 spreads rapidly2 very red in winter2 #c-d ft4 ,flowering raspberry1 mulberry 7erroneously71 ,r4 odoratus99 ,attractive when well grown and divided frequently to keep it fresh2 there is a whitish form2 #c-d ft4 ,japanese wineberry1 ,r4 phaenicolasius4 ,attractive foliage and red hairy canes2 fruit edible2 #c-e ft4 ,kilmarnock willow1 ,salix ,capraea1 var4 pendula4 ,a small weeping plant grafted on a tall trunk2 usually more curious than ornamental4 ,rosemary willow1 ,s4 rosmarinifolia of nurserymen 7,r4 incana properly74 #f-aj ft4 ,shining willow1 ,s4 lucida499 ,very desirable for the edges of water2 #f-ab ft4 ,long-leaved willow1 ,s4 interior499 ,our narrowest-leaved native willow2 useful for banks2 liable to spread too rapidly2 #h-ab;ft4 ,fountain willow1 ,s4 purpurea4 ,attractive foliage and appearance1 particularly if cut back now and then to secure new wood2 excellent for holding springy banks2 #aj-bj ft4 ,pussy willow1 ,s4 discolor99 ,attractive when massed at some distance from the residence2 #aj-ae ft4 ,laurel-leaved willow1 ,s4 pentandra 7,s4 laurifolia of cultivators7 ,see under ,trees1 p4 #cbi4 ,many of the native willows might well be cultivated4 ,elders1 ,sambucus pubens99 and ,s4 ,canadensis499 ,the former1 the common 8red elder10 is ornamental both in flower and fruit4 ,s4 ,canadensis is desirable for its profusion of fragrant flowers appearing in ,july2 the former is #f-g ft4 high and the latter #h-aj ft4 ,golden-leaved elder1 ,s4 nigra var4 foliis aureis1 and also the cut-leaved elder1 are desirable forms of the ,european species2 #e-ae ft4 ,buffalo-berry1 ,shepherdia argentea99 ,silvery foliage2 attractive and edible berries2 #aj-ae ft41 often tree-like4 ,shepherdia1 ,s4 ,canadensis499 ,spreading bush1 #c-h ft41 with attractive foliage and fruit4 ,early spirea1 ,spira arguta4 ,one of the earliest bloomers among the spireas2 #b-d ft4 ,three-lobed spirea1 bridal wreath1 ,s4 ,van ,houttei4 ,one of the most showy early-flowering shrubs2 excellent for massing2 blooms a little later than the above2 #c-f ft4 ,sorbus-leaved spirea1 ,s4 sorbifolia 7,sorbaria sorbifolid74 ,desirable for its late blooming1--late ,june and early ,july2 #d-e ft4 ,plum-leaved spirea1 ,s4 prunifolia4 ,fortune's spirea1 ,s4 ,japonica 7,s4 callosa71 #b to #d ft4 ,thunberg's spirea1 ,s4 ,thunbergii4 ,neat and attractive in habit2 useful for border-hedges2 #c-e ft4 ,st4 ,peter's ,wreath1 ,s4 hypericifolia2 #d-e ft4 ,round-leaved spirea1 ,s4 bracteata4 ,follows ,van ,houttei2 #c-f ft4 ,douglas' spirea1 ,s4 ,douglasii499 ,blossoms late1--in ,july2 #d-h ft4 ,hard-hack1 ,s4 tomentosa499 ,much like the last1 but less showy2 #c-d ft4 ,willow-leaved spirea1 ,s4 salicifolia499 ,blooms late2 #d-e ft4 ,bladder-nut1 ,staphylea trifolia99 ,well-known rather coarse native shrub2 #f-ab ft4 ,colchican bladder-nut1 ,s4 ,colchica4 ,good early flowering shrub2 #f-ab ft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfd4 ,a spirea1 one of he most servicable flowering shrubs4 ,styrax1 ,styrax ,japonica4 ,one of the most graceful of flowering shrubs1 producing fragrant flowers in early summer2 #h-aj ft4 or more4 ,snow-berry1 ,symphoricarpos racemosus499 ,cultivated for its snow-white berries1 that hang in autumn and early winter2 #c-e ft4 ,indian currant1 ,s4 vulgaris4 ,foliage delicate2 berries red2 valuable for shady places and against walls2 #d-e ft4 ,common lilac1 ,syringa vulgaris4 7,the name syringa is commonly misapplied to the species of ,philadelphus47 ,the standard spring-blooming shrub in the ,north2 #h-ae ft42 many forms4 ,josika lilac1 ,s4 ,josikaeca4 ,blooming about a week later than ,s4 vulgaris2 #h-aj ft4 ,persian lilac1 ,s4 ,persica4 ,more spreading and open bush than ,s4 vulgaris2 #f-aj ft4 ,japanese lilac1 ,s4 ,japonica4 ,blooms about one month later than common lilac2 #ae-bj ft4 ,rouen lilac1 ,s4 ,chinensis 7or ,rothomagensis7 ,blooms with the common lilac2 flowers more highly colored than those of ,s4 ,persica2 #e-ab ft4 ,chinese lilacs1 ,s4 oblata and villosa4 ,the former #aj-ae ft4 and blooming with common lilac2 the latter #d-f ft41 and blooming few days later4 ,tamarisk1 ,tamarix of several species1 particularly 7for the ,north7 ,t4 ,chinensis1 ,t4 ,africana 7probably the garden forms under this name are all ,t4 parviflora71 and ,t4 hispida 7,t4 ,kashgarica74 ,all odd shrubs or small trees with very fine foliage1 and minute pink flowers in profusion4 ,common snowball1 ,viburnum ,opulus499 ,the cultivated snowball is a native of the ,old ,world2 but the species grows wild in this country 7known as ,high-bush ,cranberry71 and is worthy of cultivation2 #f-aj ft4 ,japanese snowball1 ,v4 tomentosum 7catalogued as ,v4 plicatum74 #f-aj ft4 ,wayfaring tree1 ,v4 ,lantana4 ,fruit ornamental2 #h-ab ft41 or more4 ,plum-leaved haw1 ,v4 prunifolium499 ,leaves smooth and glossy2 #h-ae ft4 ,sweet viburnum or sheep-berry1 ,viburnum ,lentago499 ,tall coarse bush1 or becoming a small tree4 ,arrow-wood1 ,v4 dentatum499 ,usually #e-h ft41 but becoming taller4 ,dockmackie1 ,v4 acerifolium499 ,maple-like foliage2 #d-e ft4 ,withe-rod1 lilac viburnum1 ,v4 cassinoides499 #b-e ft4 ,other native and exotic viburnums are desirable4 ,xanthoceras1 ,xanthoceras sorbifolia4 ,allied to the buckeyes2 hardy in parts of ,new ,england2 #h-aj;ft42 handsome4 ,prickly ash1 ,zanthoxylum ,americanum499 ,shrubs for the ,south4 ,many of the shrubs in the preceding catalogue are also well adapted to the southeastern states4 ,the following brief list includes some of the most recommendable kinds for the region south of ,washington1 although some of them are hardy farther ,north4 ,the asterisk 99 denotes that the plant is native to this country4 ,the crape myrtle 7,lagerstrmia ,indica7 is to the ,south what the lilac is to the ,north1 a standard dooryard shrub2 produces handsome red 7or blush or white7 flowers all summer2 #h-ab feet4 ,reliable deciduous shrubs for the ,south are3 althea1 ,hibiscus ,syriacus1 in many forms2 ,hibiscus ,rosa-,sinensis2 ,azalea calendulacea199 mollis1 and the ,ghent azalea 7,a4 ,pontica72 blue spirea1 ,caryopteris ,mastacanihus2 ,european forms of ceanothus2 ,french mulberry1 ,callicarpa ,americana992 calycanthus992 flowering willow1 ,chilopsis linearis992 fringe1 ,chionanthus ,virginica992 white alder1 ,clethra alnifolia992 corchorus1 ,kerria ,japonica2 deutzias1 of several kinds2 goumi1 ,elagnus longipes2 pearl bush1 ,exochorda grandiflora2 ,japan quince1 ,cydonia ,japonica2 golden-bell1 ,forsythia viridissima2 broom1 ,spartium junceum2 hydrangeas1 including ,h4 ,otaksa1 grown under cover in the ,north2 ,jasminum nudiflorum2 bush honey suckles2 mock orange1 ,philadelphus coronarius and grandiflorus992 pomegranate2 white kerria1 ,rhodotypos kerrioides2 smoke tree1 ,rhus ,cotinus2 rose locust1 ,robinia hispida992 spireas of several kinds2 ,stuartia pentagyna992 snowberry1 ,symphoricarpos racemosus992 lilacs of many kinds2 viburnums of several species1 including the ,european and ,japanese snowballs2 weigelas of the various kinds2 chaste-tree1 ,vitex ,agnus-,castus2 ,thunberg's barberry2 red pepper1 ,capsicum frutescens2 ,plumbago ,capensis2 poinsettia4 ,a large number of broad-leaved evergreen shrubs thrive in the ,south1 such as3 fetter bush1 ,andromeda floribunda992 some of the palms1 as palmettoes99 and chamrops2 cycas and zamia99 far ,south2 ,abelia grandiflora2 strawberry tree1 ,arbutus ,unedo2 ardisias and aucubas1 both grown under glass in the ,north2 azaleas and rhododendrons 7not only ,r4 ,catawbiense99 but ,r4 maximum99 ,r1 ,ponticum1 and the garden forms72 ,kalmia latifolia992 ,berberis ,japonica and mahonia992 box2 ,cleyera ,japonica2 cotoneasters and pyracantha2 eleagnus of the types grown under glass in the ,north2 gardenias2 euonymus992 hollies992 anise-tree1 ,illicium anisatum2 cherry laurels1 ,prunus or ,laurocerasus of several species2 mock orange 7of the ,south71 ,prunus ,caroliniana99 useful for hedges2 true laurel or bay-tree1 ,laurus nobilis2 privets of several species2 ,citrus trifoliata1 specially desirable for hedges2 oleanders2 magnolias992 myrtle1 ,myrtus communis2 ,osmanthus 7,olea7 fragrans1 a greenhouse shrub ,north2 ,osmanthus ,aquifolium992 butcher's broom1 ,ruscus aculeatus2 phillyreas992 ,pittosporum ,tobira2 shrubby yuccas992 ,viburnum ,tinus and others2 and the camellia in many forms4 ,,xiv3 ,virginia creeper screen1 on an old fence1 with wall-flowers and hollyhocks in front4 ,,xiv3 ,virginia creeper screen1 on an old fence1 with wall-flowers and hollyhocks in front4 #f4 ,,climbing ,,plants ,vines do not differ particularly in their culture from other herbs and shrubs1 except as they require that supports be provided2 and1 as they overtop other plants1 they demand little room on the ground1 and they may therefore be grown in narrow or unused spaces along fences and walls4 ,in respect to the modes of climbing1 vines may be thrown into three groups1--those that twine about the support2 those that climb by means of special organs1 as tendrils1 roots1 leaf99stalks2 those that neither twine nor have special organs but that scramble over the support1 as the climbing roses and the brambles4 ,one must recognize the mode of climbing before undertaking the cultivation of any vine4 ,vines may also be grouped into annuals1 both tender 7as morning-glory7 and hardy 7as sweet pea72 biennials1 as adlumia1 which are treated practically as annuals1 being sown each year for bloom the next year2 herbaceous perennials1 the tops dying each fall down to a persisting root1 as cinnamon vine and madeira vine2 woody perennials 7shrubs71 the tops remaining alive1 as ,virginia creeper1 grape1 and wistaria4 ,there is scarcely a garden in which climbing plants may not be used to advantage4 ,sometimes it may be to conceal obtrusive objects1 again to relieve the monotony of rigid lines4 ,they may also be used to run over the ground and to conceal its nakedness where other plants could not succeed4 ,the shrubby kinds are often useful about the borders of clumps of trees and shrubbery1 to slope the foliage down to the grass1 and to soften or erase lines in the landscape4 ,in the ,south and in ,california1 great use is made of vines1 not only on fences but on houses and arbors4 ,in warm countries1 vines give character to bungalows1 pergolas1 and other individual forms of architecture4 ,if it is desired that the vines climb high1 the soil should be fertile2 but high climbing in annual plants 7as in sweet peas7 may be at the expense of bloom4 ,the use of vines for screens and pillar decorations has increased in recent years until now they may be seen in nearly all grounds4 ,the tendency has been towards using the hardy vines1 of which the ampelopsis1 or ,virginia creeper1 is one of the most common4 ,this is a very rapid grower1 and lends itself to training more readily than many others4 ,the ,japan ampelopsis 7,a4 tricuspidata or ,veitchii7 is a good clinging vine1 growing very rapidly when once established1 and brilliantly colored after the first fall frosts4 ,it clings closer than the other1 but is not so hardy4 ,either of these may be grown from cuttings or division of the plants4 ,two recommendable woody twiners of recent distribution are the actinidia and the akebia1 both from ,japan4 ,they are perfectly hardy1 and are rapid growers4 ,the former has large thick glossy leaves1 not affected by insects or disease1 growing thickly along the stem and branches1 making a perfect thatch4 ,it blooms in ,june4 ,the flowers1 which are white with a purple center1 are borne in clusters1 followed by round or longish edible fruits4 ,the akebia has very neat-cut foliage1 quaint purple flowers1 and often bears ornamental fruit4 ,of the tender vines1 the nasturtiums and ipomeas and morning-glories are the most common in the ,north1 while the adlumia1 balloon vine1 passion vine1 gourds1 and others1 are frequently used4 ,one of the best of recent introduction is the annual hop1 especially the variegated variety4 ,this is a very rapid-growing vine1 seeding itself each year1 and needing little care4 ,the climbing geraniums 7,pelargonium peltatum and its derivatives7 are much used in ,california4 ,all the tender vines should be planted after danger of frost is past4 ,so many good vines are now on the market that one may grow a wide variety for many uses4 ,the home gardener should keep his eyes open for the wild vines of his neighborhood and add the best of them to his collection4 ,most of these natives are worthy of cultivation4 ,even the poison ivy makes a very satisfactory cover for rough and inaccessible places in the wild1 and its autumn color is very attractive2 but of course its cultivation cannot be recommended4 ,vines that cling closely to walls of buildings are ,virginia creeper 7one form does not cling well71 ,boston or ,japanese ivy 7,ampelopsis tricuspidata2 also ,a4 ,lowii1 with smaller foliage71 ,english ivy1 euonymus 7,e4 radicans and the var4 variegata71 and ,ficus repens far south2 others that cling less closely are trumpet creeper1 and climbing hydrangea 7,schizophragma hydrangeoides74 ,vines for trailing1 or covering the ground1 are periwinkle 7,vinca71 herniaria1 moneywort 7,lysimachia nummularia71 ground-ivy 7,nepeta ,glechoma71 ,rosa ,wichuraiana1 species of native greenbrier or smilax 7not the so-called smilax of florists71 ,rubus laciniatus1 dewberries1 and also others that usually are not classed as vines4 ,in the ,south1 ,japanese honeysuckle and ,cherokee rose perform this function extensively4 ,in ,california1 species of mesembryanthemum 7herbaceous7 are extensively used as ground covers on banks4 ,page #hf4 ,for quickly covering brush and rough places1 the many kinds of gourds may be used2 also pumpkins and squashes1 watermelons1 ,cucumis ftidissima1 wild cucumbers 7,echinocystis lobata and ,sicyos angulata71 nasturtiums1 and other vigorous annuals4 ,many of the woody perennials may be used for such purposes1 but usually these places are only temporary4 ,for arbors1 strong woody vines are desired4 ,grapes are excellent2 in the ,south the muscadine and scuppernong grapes are adaptable to this purpose 7,plate ,,xv74 ,actinidia and wistaria are also used4 ,akebia1 dutchman's pipe1 trumpet creeper1 clematis1 honeysuckles1 may be suggested4 ,roses are much used in warm climates4 ,for covering porches1 the standard vine in the ,north is ,virginia creeper4 ,grapes are admirable1 particularly some of the wild ones4 ,japan honeysuckle is much used2 and it has the advantage of holding its foliage well into the winter1 or even all winter southward4 ,actinidia1 akebia1 wistaria1 roses1 dutch-man's pipe1 and clematis are to be recommended2 the large-flowered clematises1 however1 are more valuable for their bloom than for their foliage 7,c4 paniculata1 and the native species are better for covering porches74 ,the annual vines are mostly used as flower-garden subjects1 as the sweet pea1 morning-glories1 mina1 moonflowers1 cypress vine1 nasturtiums1 cobea1 scarlet runner4 ,several species of convolvulus1 closely allied to the common morning-glory1 have now enriched our lists4 ,for baskets and vases the maurandia and the different kinds of thunbergias are excellent4 ,the moonflowers are very popular in the ,south1 where the seasons are long enough to allow them to develop to perfection4 ,in the ,north they must be started early 7it is a good plan to soak or notch the seeds7 and be given a warm exposure and good soil 7see in ,chap4 ,,viii74 ,in the following lists1 the plants native to the ,united ,states or ,canada are marked by an asterisk 994 ,annual herbaceous climbers4 7,grown each year from seed47 a4 ,tendril-climbers ,adlumia 7biennial7499 ,balloon ,vine 7,cardiospermum7499 ,cobea4 ,gourds4 ,nasturtiums 7,tropaeolum74 ,canary-bird ,flower 7,tropaeolum peregrinum74 ,sweet pea 7,fig4 #bfe74 ,wild cucumber499 ,maurandia4 ,gourds or gourd-like plants1 as1 ,coccinia ,indica2 ,cucumis of several interesting species1 as ,c4 erinaceus1 grossulariformis1 odoratissimus2 dipper or bottle gourd 7,lagenaria72 vegetable sponge1 dish-cloth gourd1 rag gourd 7,luffa72 balsam apple1 balsam pear 7,momordica72 snake gourd 7,trichosanthes72 bryonopsis2 ,abobra viridiflora4 ,all the above except sweet pea are quickly cut down by frost4 b4 ,twiners ,beans1 ,flowering4 ,cypress vine4 ,dolichos ,lablab1 and others4 ,hop1 ,japanese4 ,ipomcea ,quamoclit 7cypress vine7 and others4 ,moonflower1 several species4 ,morning-glory4 ,mina lobata4 ,thunbergia4 ,mikania scandens499 ,butterfly pea1 ,centrosema ,virginiana499 ,scarlet runner1 ,phaseolus multiflorus 7perennial ,south74 ,velvet or banana bean1 ,mucuna pruriens var4 utilis 7for the ,south74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfe4 ,sweet pea4 ,perennial herbaceous climbers4 7,the tops dying down in fall1 but the root living over winter and sending up a new top47 a4 ,tendril-climbers or root-climbers ,everlasting pea1 ,lathyrus latifolius4 ,clematis of various species1 as ,c4 aromatica1 ,davidiana1 heracleaefolia 7,c4 tubulosa71 are more or less climbing4 ,most of the clematises are shrubs4 ,may-pop1 ,passiflora incarnata499 ,not reliable north of ,virginia4 ,wild ,gourd1 ,cucurbita ftidissima 7,cucumis perennius7499 ,excellent strong rugged vine for covering piles on the ground4 ,mexican rose1 mountain rose1 ,antigonon leptopus4 ,root tuberous2 a rampant grower1 with pink bloom2 outdoors ,south1 and a conservatory plant ,north4 ,kenilworth ivy1 ,linaria ,cymbalaria4 ,a very graceful little perennial vine1 re-sowing itself even where not hardy2 favorite for baskets4 b4 ,herbaceous twiners ,hop1 ,humulus ,lupulus499 ,produces the hops of commerce1 but should be in common use as an ornamental plant4 ,chinese yam1 cinnamon vine1 ,dioscorea divaricata 7,d4 ,batatas74 ,climbs high1 but does not produce as much foliage as some other vines4 ,wild yam1 ,d4 villosa499 ,smaller than the preceding2 otherwise fully as good4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bff4 ,clematis ,henryi4 ,one-third natural size4 ,ground-nut1 ,apios tuberosa499 ,a bean-like vine1 producing many chocolate-brown flowers in ,august and ,september4 ,scarlet runner and ,white ,dutch runner beans1 ,phaseolus multiflorus4 ,perennial in warm countries2 annual in the ,north4 ,moonflowers1 ,ipomcea1 various species4 ,some are perennials far ,south1 but annual ,north4 ,hardy moonflower1 ,ipoma pandurata499 ,a weed where it grows wild1 but an excellent vine for some purposes4 ,wild morning-glory1 ,rutland beauty1 ,convolvulus ,sepium99 and ,california rose1 ,c4 ,japonicus4 ,the former1 white and pink1 is common in swales4 ,the latter1 in double or semi-double form1 is often run wild4 ,madeira vine1 mignonette vine1 ,boussingaultia baselloides4 ,root a large1 tough1 irregular tuber4 ,mikania1 climbing hempweed1 ,mikania scandens499 ,a good compositous twiner1 inhabiting moist lands4 ,woody perennial climbers4 7,climbing shrubs1 the tops not dying down in fall except in climates in which they are not hardy47 a4 ,tendril-climbers1 root-climbers1 scramblers1 and trailers ,virginia creeper1 ,ampelopsis quinquefolia199 ,the best vine for covering buildings in the colder climates4 ,plants should be selected from vines of known habit1 as some individuals cling much better than others4 ,var4 hirsuta199 strongly clinging1 is recommended by the experimental station at ,ottawa1 ,canada4 ,var4 ,engelmanni99 has small and neat foliage4 ,japanese ivy1 ,boston ivy1 ,a4 tricuspidata 7,a4 ,veitchii74 ,handsomer than the ,virginia creeper1 and clings closer1 but is often injured by winter in exposed places1 especially when young2 in northern regions1 tops should be protected for first year or two4 ,variegated ivy1 ,ampelopsis heterophylla var4 elegans 7,cissus variegata74 ,handsome delicate hardy grape-like vines with mostly three-lobed blotched leaves and bluish berries4 ,garden clematis1 ,clematis of various species and varieties4 ,plants of robust and attractive habit1 and gorgeous blooms2 many garden forms4 ,c4 ,jackmani1 and its varieties1 is one of the best4 ,c4 ,henryi 7,fig4 #bff7 is excellent for white flowers4 ,clematises bloom in ,july and ,august4 ,wild clematis1 ,c4 ,virginiana99 ,very attractive for arbors and for covering rude objects4 ,the pistillate plants bear curious woolly balls of fruit4 ,wild clematis1 ,c4 verticillaris499 ,less vigorous grower than the last1 but excellent4 ,japanese clematis1 ,c4 paniculata4 ,the best late-blooming woody vine1 producing enormous masses of white flowers in late summer and early fall4 ,trumpet creeper1 ,tecoma radicans499 ,one of the best of all free-flowering shrubs2 climbs by means of roots2 flowers very large1 orange-scarlet4 ,chinese trumpet creeper1 ,t4 grandiflora 7,bignonia grandiflora74 ,flowers orange-red2 sometimes scarcely climbing4 ,bignonia1 ,bignonia capreolata499 ,a good strong evergreen vine1 but often a nuisance in fields in the ,south4 ,frost grape1 ,vitis cordifolia499 ,one of the finest of all vines4 ,it is a very tall grower1 producing thick1 heavy1 dark leaves4 ,its foliage often reminds one of that of the moon-seed4 ,does not grow readily from cuttings4 ,summer and river-bank grapes1 ,v4 bicolor99 and ,v4 vulpina 7riparia7499 ,the common wild grapes of the ,northern states4 ,muscadine1 scuppernong1 ,vitis rotundifolia499 ,much used for arbors in the ,southern states 7,plate ,,xv74 ,ivy1 ,hedera ,helix4 ,the ,european ivy does not endure the bright sun of our winter2 on the north side of a building it often does well2 the best of vines for covering buildings1 where it succeeds2 hardy in favorable localities as far north as southern ,ontario2 many forms4 ,greenbrier1 ,smilax rotundifolia99 and ,s4 hispida499 ,unique for the covering of small arbors and summer-houses4 ,euonymus1 ,e4 radicans4 ,a very close-clinging root-climber1 excellent for low walls2 evergreen2 the variegated variety is good4 ,climbing fig1 ,ficus repens4 ,used in greenhouses ,north1 but is hardy far ,south4 ,matrimony vine1 boxthorn1 ,lycium ,chinense4 ,flowering all summer2 flowers rose-pink and buff1 axillary1 star-like1 succeeded by scarlet berries in the fall2 stems prostrate1 or scrambling2 an old-fashioned vine on porches4 ,bitter-sweet1 ,solanum ,dulcamara4 ,a common scrambling or semi-twining vine along roadsides1 with brilliant red poisonous berries2 top dies down or nearly so4 ,periwinkles1 ,vinca minor and ,v4 major4 ,the former is the familiar trailing evergreen myrtle1 with blue flowers in early spring2 in its variegated form the latter is much used for hanging baskets and vases4 ,climbing hydrangea1 ,schizophragma hydrangeoides4 ,clings to walls by rootlets1 producing white flowers in midsummer4 ,passion-flower1 species of ,passiflora and ,tacsonia4 ,used in the ,south and in ,california4 b4 ,woody twiners ,actinidia1 ,a4 arguta4 ,very strong grower1 with beautiful thick foliage that is not attacked by insects or fungi2 one of the best vines for arbors4 ,akebia1 ,a4 quinata4 ,very handsome and odd ,japanese vine2 a strong grower1 and worthy general planting4 ,honeysuckles1 woodbine1 ,lonicera of many kinds4 ,japanese honeysuckle1 ,l4 ,halliana 7a form of ,l4 ,japonica74 #aj-bj ft42 flowers1 white and buff1 fragrant mainly in spring and fall2 leaves small1 evergreen2 stems prostrate and rooting1 or twining and climbing4 ,trellises1 or for covering rocks and bare places2 extensively run wild in the ,south4 ,var4 aurea reticidata is similar to the type1 but with handsome golden appearance4 ,belgian ,honeysuckle1 ,l4 ,periclymenum var4 ,belgica4 #f-aj ft42 monthly2 flowers in clusters1 rosy red1 buff within2 makes a large1 rounded bush4 ,coral or trumpet honeysuckle1 ,l4 sempervirens499 #f-ae ft42 ,june2 scattering scarlet flowers through the summer2 with no support makes a large rounded bush2 for trellises1 fences1 or a hedge2 it is one of the list of hardy trees and shrubs recommended for ,canada by the ,experiment ,station at ,ottawa4 ,honeysuckle1 ,l4 ,caprifolium1 with cup-like connate leaves4 ,good native climbing honeysuckles are ,l4 flava199 ,sullivanti199 hirsuta199 dioica199 and ,douglasi499 ,wistaria1 ,wistaria ,sinensis and ,w4 speciosa499 ,the ,chinese species1 ,sinensis1 is a superb plant2 flowers blue-purple2 there is a white-flowered variety4 ,japanese wistaria1 ,w4 multijuga4 ,flowers smaller and later than the ,chinese1 in looser racemes4 ,dutchman's pipe1 ,aristolochia macrophytta 7,a4 ,sipho7499 ,a robust grower1 possessing enormous leaves4 ,useful for covering verandas and arbors4 ,wax-work or false bitter-sweet1 ,celastrus scandens499 ,very ornamental in fruit2 flowers imperfect4 ,japanese celastrus1 ,c4 orbiculatus 7,c4 articulatus of the trade74 ,c4 articulatus and ,c4 scandens are in the list of #ajj trees and shrubs recommended by the ,experiment ,station at ,ottawa for ,canada4 ,moonseed1 ,menispermum ,canadense499 ,a small but very attractive twiner1 useful for thickets and small arbors4 ,bokhara climbing polygonum1 ,polygonum ,baldschuanicum4 ,hardy ,north1 although the young growth may be killed2 flowers numerous1 minute1 whitish2 interesting1 but does not make a heavy cover4 ,kudzu vine1 ,pueraria ,thunbergiana 7,dolichos ,japonicus74 ,makes very long growths from a tuberous root2 shrubby ,south1 but dies to the ground in the ,north4 ,silk vine1 ,periploca ,grca4 ,purplish flowers in axillary clusters2 long1 narrow1 shining leaves2 rapid growing4 ,potato vine1 ,solanum jasminoides4 ,a good evergreen vine ,south1 particularly the var4 grandiflorum4 ,yellow jasmine1 ,gelsemium sempervirens499 ,a good native evergreen vine for the ,south1 with fragrant yellow flowers4 ,malayan jasmine1 ,trachelospermum 7or ,rhynchospermum7 jasminoides4 ,a good evergreen vine for the ,south and in ,california4 ,climbing asparagus1 ,asparagus plumosus4 ,popular as an outdoor vine far ,south and in ,california4 ,jasmines1 ,jasminum of several species4 ,the best known in gardens are ,j4 nudiflorum1 yellow in earliest spring1 ,j4 officinale1 the jessamine of poetry1 with white flowers1 and ,j4 ,sambac1 the ,arabian jasmine 7and related species7 with white flowers and unbranched leaves2 these are not hardy without much protection north of ,washington or ,philadelphia1 and ,j4 ,sambac only far ,south4 ,bougainvillea1 ,bougainvillaea glabra and ,b4 spectabilis4 ,the magenta-flowered variety1 sometimes seen in conservatories in the ,north1 is a popular outdoor vine in the ,south and is profusely used in southern ,california4 ,the red-flowered form is less seen1 but is preferable in color4 ,wire-vine 7polygonum of florists71 ,muehlenbeckia complexa4 ,abundantly used on buildings and chimneys in southern ,california4 ,,xv3 ,scuppernong grape1 the arbor vine of the ,south4 ,this plate shows the noted scuppernongs on ,roanoke ,island1 of which the origin is unknown1 but which were of great size more than one hundred years ago4 ,,xv3 ,scuppernong grape1 the arbor vine of the ,south4 ,this plate shows the noted scuppernongs on ,roanoke ,island1 of which the origin is unknown1 but which were of great size more than one hundred years ago4 ,climbing roses4 ,illustration3 #bfg4 ,climbing rose1 ,jules ,margottin4 ,the roses do not climb nor possess any special climbing organs2 therefore they must be provided with a trellis or woven-wire fence4 ,some of the roses classed as climbing are such as only need good support1 ,fig4 #bfg4 ,for culture of roses1 see ,chapter ,,viii4 ,the most popular climbing or pillar rose at present is ,crimson ,rambler1 but while it makes a great display of flowers1 it is not the best climbing rose4 ,probably the best of the real climbing roses for this country1 bloom1 foliage1 and habit all considered1 are the derivatives of the native prairie rose1 ,rosa setigera 7native as far north as ,ontario and ,wisconsin74 ,baltimore ,belle and ,queen of the ,prairie belong to this class4 ,the climbing polyantha roses 7hybrids of ,rosa multiflora and other species7 include the class of 8rambler0 roses that has now come to be large1 including not only the ,crimson ,rambler1 but forms of other colors1 single and semi-double1 and various climbing habits2 a very valuable and hardy class of roses1 particularly for trellises4 ,the ,memorial rose 7,r4 ,wichuraiana7 is a trailing1 half-evergreen1 white-flowered species1 very useful for covering banks and rocks4 ,derivatives of this species of many kinds are now available1 and are valuable4 ,the ,ayrshire roses 7,r4 arvensis var4 capreolata7 are profuse but rather slender growers1 hardy ,north1 bearing double white or pink flowers4 ,the ,cherokee rose 7,r4 ,icevigata or ,r4 ,sinica7 is extensively naturalized in the ,south1 and much prized for its large white bloom and shining foliage2 not hardy in the ,north4 ,the ,banksia rose 7,r4 ,banksice7 is a strong climbing rose for the ,south and ,california with yellow or white flowers in clusters4 ,a larger-flowered form 7,r4 ,fortuneana7 is a hybrid of this and the ,cherokee rose4 ,the climbing tea and noisette roses1 forms of ,r4 ,chinensis and ,r4 ,noisettiana1 are useful in the open in the ,south4 #g4 ,,trees ,,for ,,lawns ,,and ,,streets ,a single tree may give character to an entire home property2 and a place of any size that does not have at least one good tree usually lacks any dominating landscape note4 ,likewise1 a street that is devoid of good trees cannot be the best residential section2 and a park that lacks well-grown trees is either immature or barren4 ,although the list of good and hardy lawn and street trees is rather extensive1 the number of kinds generally planted and recognized is small4 ,since most home places can have but few trees1 and since they require so many years to mature1 it is natural that the home-maker should hesitate about experimenting1 or trying kinds that he does not himself know4 ,so the home-maker in the ,north plants maples1 elms1 and a white birch1 and in the ,south a magnolia and ,china-berry4 ,yet there are numbers of trees as useful as these1 the planting of which might give our premises and streets a much richer expression4 ,it is much to be desired that some of the trees with 8strong0 and rugged characters be introduced into the larger grounds2 such1 for example1 as the hickories and oaks4 ,these may often transplant with difficulty1 but the effort to secure them is worth the expenditure4 ,good trees of oaks1 and others supposed to be difficult to transplant1 may now be had of the leading nurserymen4 ,the pin oak 7,quercus palustris7 is one of the best street trees and is now largely planted4 ,it is at least possible to introduce a variety of trees into a city or village1 by devoting one street or a series of blocks to a single kind of tree1--one street being known by its lindens1 one by its plane-trees1 one by its oaks1 one by its hickories1 one by its native birches1 beech1 coffee-tree1 sassafras1 gum or liquidambar1 tulip tree1 and the like4 ,there is every reason why a city1 particularly a small city or a village1 should become to some extent an artistic expression of its natural region4 ,the home-maker is fortunate if his area already possesses well-grown large trees4 ,it may even be desirable to place the residence with reference to such trees 7,plate ,,vi72 and the planning of the grounds should accept them as fixed points to which to work4 ,the operator will take every care to preserve and safeguard sufficient of the standing trees to give the place singularity and character4 ,the care of the tree should include not only the protecting of it from enemies and accidents1 but also the maintaining of its characteristic features4 ,for example1 the natural rough bark should be maintained against the raids of tree-scrapers2 and the grading should not be allowed to disguise the natural bulge of the tree at the base1 for a tree that is covered a foot or two above the natural line is not only in danger of being killed1 but it looks like a post4 ,the best shade trees are usually those that are native to the particular region1 since they are hardy and adapted to the soil and other conditions4 ,elms1 maples1 basswoods1 and the like are nearly always reliable4 ,in regions in which there are serious insect enemies or fungous diseases1 the trees that are most likely to be attacked may be omitted4 ,for instance1 in parts of the ,east the chestnut bark-disease is a very great menace2 and it is a good plan in such places to plant other trees than chestnuts4 ,a good shade tree is one that has a heavy foliage and dense head1 and that is not commonly attacked by repelling insects and diseases4 ,trees for shade should ordinarily be given sufficient room that they may develop into full size and symmetrical heads4 ,trees may be planted as close as #aj or #ae feet apart for temporary effect2 but as soon as they begin to crowd they should be thinned1 so that they develop their full characteristics as trees4 ,trees may be planted in fall or spring4 ,fall is desirable1 except for the extreme ,north1 if the land is well drained and prepared and if the trees may be got in early2 but under usual conditions1 spring planting is safer1 if the stock has been wintered well 7see discussion under ,shrubs1 p4 #bij74 ,planting and pruning are discussed on pp4 #abd and #aci4 ,if one desires trees with conspicuous bloom1 they should be found among the magnolias1 tulip trees1 klreuteria1 catalpas1 chestnuts1 horse-chestnut and buckeyes1 cladrastis1 black or yellow locust1 wild black cherry1 and less conspicuously in the lindens2 and also in such half-trees or big shrubs as cercis1 cytisus1 flowering dogwood1 double-flowered and other forms of apples1 crab-apples1 cherries1 plums1 peaches1 hawthorn or cratgus1 amelanchier1 mountain ash4 ,among drooping or weeping trees the best may be found in the willows 7,salix ,babylonica and others71 maples 7,wier's71 birch1 mulberry1 beech1 ash1 elm1 cherry1 poplar1 mountain ash4 ,purple-leaved varieties occur in the beech1 maple1 elm1 oak1 birch1 and others4 ,yellow-leaved and tricolors occur in the maple1 oak1 poplar1 elm1 beech1 and other species4 ,cut-leaved forms are found in birch1 beech1 maple1 alder1 oak1 basswood1 and others4 ,list of hardy deciduous trees for the ,north4 7,the genera are arranged alphabetically4 ,natives are marked by 992 good species for shade trees by 2 those recommended by the ,experiment ,station at ,ottawa1 ,ontario1 by ,,dd7 ,in a number of the genera1 the plants may be shrubby rather than arboreus in some regions 7see the ,shrub list71 as in acer 7,a4 ,ginnala1 ,a4 spicatum71 sculus1 betula 7,b4 pumila71 carpinus1 castanea 7,c4 pumila71 catalpa 7,c4 ovata71 cercis1 magnolia 7,m4 glauca particularly71 ostrya1 prunus1 pyrus1 salix1 sorbus4 ,norway maple1 ,acer platanoides47,d1 ,,dd7 ,one of the finest medium-sized trees for single lawn specimens2 there are several horticultural varieties4 ,var4 ,schwedleri is one of the best of purple-leaved trees4 ,the ,norway maple droops too much and is too low-headed for roadside planting4 ,black sugar maple1 ,a4 nigrum47,a1 ,,dd7 ,darker and softer in aspect than the ordinary sugar maple4 ,sugar maple1 ,a4 saccharum47,a1 ,,dd7 ,this and the last are among the very best roadside trees4 ,silver maple1 ,a4 saccharinum 7,a4 dasycarpum747,a1 ,,dd7 ,desirable for water-courses and for grouping2 succeeds on both wet and dry lands4 ,wier's cut-leaved silver maple1 ,a4 saccharinum var4 ,wieri47,d1 ,,dd7 ,light and graceful2 especially desirable for pleasure grounds4 ,red1 soft1 or swamp maple1 ,a4 rubrum499 ,valuable for its spring and autumn colors1 and for variety in grouping4 ,sycamore maple1 ,a4 ,pseudo-platanus4 ,a slow grower1 to be used mostly as single specimens4 ,several horticultural varieties4 ,english maple1 ,a4 campestre4 ,a good medium-sized tree of slow growth1 not hardy on our northern borders2 see under ,shrubs 7p4 #bia74 ,japan maple1 ,a4 palmatum 7,a4 polymorphum74 ,in many forms1 useful for small lawn specimens2 does not grow above #aj-bj ft4 ,siberian maple1 ,a4 ,ginnala4 ,attractive as a lawn specimen when grown as a bush2 the autumn color is very bright2 small tree or big shrub4 ,mountain maple1 ,a4 spicatum499 ,very bright in autumn4 ,box-elder1 ,acer ,negundo 7,negundo aceroides or fraxinifolium7499 ,very hardy and rapid growing2 much used in the ,west as a windbreak1 but not strong in ornamental features4 ,horse chestnut1 sculus ,hippocastanum4 ,useful for single specimens and roadsides2 many forms4 ,buckeye1 4 octandra 74 flava799 ,ohio buckeye1 4 glabra99 ,red buckeye1 4 cornea 74 rubicunda74 ,ailanthus1 ,ailanthus glandulosa4 ,a rapid grower1 with large pinnate leaves2 the staminate plant possesses a disagreeable odor when it flowers2 suckers badly2 most useful as a shrub2 see the same under ,shrubs 7also ,fig4 #ej74 ,alder1 ,alnus glutinosa4 ,the var4 imperialis is one of the best cut-leaved small trees4 ,european birch1 ,betula alba4 ,cut-leaved weeping birch1 ,b4 alba var4 laciniata pendula4 ,american white birch1 ,b4 populifolia499 ,paper1 or canoe birch1 ,b4 papyrifera499 ,cherry birch1 ,b4 lenta4 99 ,well-grown specimens resemble the sweet cherry2 both this and the yellow birch 7,b4 lutea997 make attractive light-leaved trees2 they are not appreciated4 ,hornbeam or blue beech1 ,carpinus ,americana499 ,chestnut1 ,castanea saliva and ,c4 ,americana499 ,showy catalpa1 ,catalpa speciosa4 ,very dark1 soft-foliaged tree of small to medium size2 showy in flower2 for northern regions should be raised from northern-grown seed4 ,smaller catalpa1 ,c4 bignonioides4 ,less showy than the last1 blooming a week or two later2 less hardy4 ,japanese catalpa1 ,c4 ovata 7,c4 ,kmpferi74 ,in northern sections often remains practically a bush4 ,nettle-tree1 ,celtis occidentalis499 ,katsura-tree1 ,cercidiphyllum ,japonicum4 ,a small or medium-sized tree of very attractive foliage and habit4 ,red-bud1 or ,judas-tree1 ,cercis ,canadensis499 ,produces a profusion of rose-purple pea-like flowers before the leaves appear2 foliage also attractive4 ,yellow-wood1 or virgilia1 ,cladrastis tinctoria499 ,one of the finest hardy flowering trees4 ,beech1 ,fagus ferruginea499 ,specimens which are symmetrically developed are among our best lawn trees2 picturesque in winter4 ,european beech1 ,f4 sylvatica4 ,many cultural forms1 the purple-leaved being everywhere known4 ,there are excellent tricolored varieties and weeping forms4 ,black ash1 ,fraxinus nigra 7,f4 sambucifolia7499 ,one of the best of the light-leaved trees2 does well on dry soils1 although native to swamps2 not appreciated4 ,white ash1 ,f4 ,americana499 ,european ash1 ,f4 excelsior4 ,there is a good weeping form of this4 ,maiden-hair tree1 ,ginkgo biloba 7,salisburia adiantifolia74 ,very odd and striking2 to be used for single specimens or avenues4 ,honey locust1 ,gleditschia triacanthos499 ,tree of striking habit1 with big branching thorns and very large pods2 there is also a thornless form4 ,kentucky coffee-tree1 ,gymnocladus ,canadensis499 ,light and graceful2 unique in winter4 ,bitternut1 ,hicoria minima 7or ,carya amara7499 ,much like black ash in aspect2 not appreciated4 ,hickory1 ,hicoria ovata 7or ,carya7 99 and others4 ,pecan1 ,h4 ,pecan499 ,hardy in places as far north as ,new ,jersey1 and reported still farther4 ,butternut1 ,juglans cinerea499 ,walnut1 ,j4 nigra499 ,varnish-tree1 ,klreuteria paniculata4 ,a medium-sized tree of good character1 producing a profusion of golden-yellow flowers in ,july2 should be better known4 ,european larch1 ,larix decidua 7,l4 ,europa74 ,american larch or tamarack1 ,l4 ,americana499 ,gum-tree1 sweet gum1 ,liquidambar styraciflua499 ,a good tree1 reaching as far north as ,connecticut1 and hardy in parts of western ,new ,york although not growing large2 foliage maple-like2 a characteristic tree of the ,south4 ,tulip tree or whitewood1 ,liriodendron ,tulipifera499 ,unique in foliage and flower and deserving to be more planted4 ,cucumber tree1 ,magnolia acuminata499 ,native in the ,northern states2 excellent4 ,white bay-tree1 ,m4 glauca499 ,very attractive small tree1 native along the coast to ,massachusetts2 where not hardy1 the young growth each year is good4 ,of the foreign magnolias hardy in the ,north1 two species and one group of hybrids are prominent3 ,m4 stellata 7or ,m4 ,halleana7 and ,m4 ,yulan or 7,m4 conspicua71 both white-flowered1 the former very early and having #i-ah petals and the latter 7which is a larger tree7 having #f-i petals2 ,m4 ,soulangeana1 a hybrid group including the forms known as ,lennei1 nigra1 ,norbertiana1 speciosa1 grandis4 ,all these magnolias are deciduous and bloom before the leaves appear4 ,mulberry1 ,morus rubra499 ,white mulberry1 ,m4 alba4 ,russian mulberry1 ,m4 alba var4 ,tatarica4 ,teas' weeping mulberry is a form of the ,russian4 ,pepperidge or gum-tree1 ,nyssa sylvatica99 ,one of the oddest and most picturesque of our native trees2 especially attractive in winter2 foliage brilliant red in autumn2 most suitable for low lands4 ,iron-wood1 hop hornbeam1 ,ostrya ,virginica499 ,a good small tree1 with hop-like fruits4 ,sourwood1 sorrel-tree1 ,oxydendrum arboreum499 ,interesting small tree native from ,pennsylvania in the high land south1 and should be reliable where it grows wild4 ,plane or buttonwood1 ,platanus occidentalis99 ,young or middle-aged trees are soft and pleasant in aspect1 but they soon become thin and ragged below2 unique in winter4 ,european plane-tree1 ,p4 orientalis4 ,much used for street planting1 but less picturesque than the ,american2 several forms4 ,aspen1 ,populus tremuloides199 ,very valuable when well grown2 too much neglected 7,fig4 #cc74 ,most of the poplars are suitable for pleasure grounds1 and as nurses for slower growing and more emphatic trees4 ,large-toothed aspen1 ,p4 grandidentata499 ,unique in summer color2 heavier in aspect than the above2 old trees become ragged4 ,weeping poplar1 ,p4 grandidentata1 var4 pendula4 ,an odd1 small tree1 suitable for small places1 but1 like all weeping trees1 likely to be planted too freely4 ,cottonwood1 ,p4 deltoides 7,p4 monilifera7499 ,the staminate specimens1 only1 should be planted if possible1 as the cotton of the seed-pods is disagreeable when carried by winds2 var4 aurea is one of the good golden-leaved trees4 ,balm of ,gilead1 ,p4 balsamifera99 and var4 candicans499 ,desirable for remote groups or belts4 ,foliage not pleasant in color4 ,lombardy poplar1 ,p4 nigra1 var4 ,italica4 ,desirable for certain purposes1 but used too indiscriminately1 it is likely to be short-lived in northern climates4 ,white poplar1 abele1 ,p4 alba4 ,sprouts badly2 several forms4 ,bolle's poplar1 ,p4 alba1 var4 ,bolleana4 ,habit much like the ,lombardy2 leaves curiously lobed1 very white beneath1 making a pleasant contrast4 ,certinensis poplar1 ,p4 laurifolia 7,p4 ,certinensis74 ,a very hardy ,siberian species1 much like ,p4 deltoides1 useful for severe climates4 ,wild black cherry1 ,prunus serotina499 ,european bird cherry1 ,prunus ,padus4 ,a small tree much like the choke cherry1 but a freer grower1 with larger flowers1 and racemes which appear about a week later4 ,choke cherry1 ,p4 ,virginiana499 ,very showy while in flower4 ,purple plum1 ,prunus cerasifera1 var4 atropurpurea 7var4 ,pissardi74 ,one of our most reliable purple-leaved trees4 ,rose-bud cherry1 ,p4 pendula 7,p4 subhirtella74 ,a tree of drooping habit and beautiful rose-pink flowers preceding the leaves4 ,japanese flowering cherry1 ,p4 ,pseudo-,cerasus4 ,in many forms1 the famous flowering cherries of ,japan1 but not reliable ,north4 ,there are ornamental-flowered peaches and cherries1 more curious and interesting than useful4 ,wild crab1 ,pyrus coronaria99 and ,p4 ,insis499 ,very showy while in flower1 blooming after apple blossoms have fallen2 old specimens become picturesque in form4 ,p4 ,insis flore pleno 7,bechtel's ,crab7 is a handsome double form4 ,siberian crab1 ,p4 baccata4 ,excellent small tree1 both in flower and fruit4 ,flowering crab1 ,pyrus floribunda4 ,pretty both in flower and fruit2 a large shrub or small tree2 various forms4 ,hall's crab1 ,p4 ,halliana 7,p4 ,parkmani74 ,one of the best of the flowering crabs1 particularly the double form4 ,various forms of double-flowering apple are on the market4 ,swamp white oak1 ,quercus bicolor499 ,a desirable tree1 usually neglected2 very picturesque in winter4 ,bur oak1 ,q4 macrocarpa499 ,chestnut oak1 ,q4 ,prinus199 and especially the closely related ,q4 ,muhlenbergii 7or ,q4 acuminata7499 ,white oak1 ,q4 alba99 ,shingle oak1 ,q4 imbricaria499 ,scarlet oak1 ,q4 coccinea499 ,this and the next two are glossy-leaved1 and are desirable for bright planting4 ,black oak1 ,q4 velutina 7,q4 tinctoria7499 ,red oak1 ,q4 rubra499 ,pin oak1 ,q4 palustris499 ,excellent for avenues2 transplants well4 ,willow oak1 ,q4 ,phellos99 ,english oak1 ,q4 ,robur4 ,many forms represented by two types1 probably good species1 ,q4 pedunculata 7with stalked acorns7 and ,q4 sessiliflora 7with stalkless acorns74 ,some of the forms are reliable in the ,northern states4 ,the oaks are slow growers and usually transplant with difficulty4 ,natural specimens are most valuable4 ,a large well-grown oak is one of the grandest of trees4 ,locust1 ,robinia ,pseudacacia499 ,attractive in flower2 handsome as single specimens when young2 many forms2 used also for hedges4 ,peach-leaved willow1 ,salix amygdaloides499 ,very handsome small tree1 deserving more attention4 ,this and the next valuable in low places or along water-courses4 ,black willow1 ,s4 nigra499 ,weeping willow1 ,s4 ,babylonica4 ,to be planted sparingly1 preferably near water2 the sort known as the ,wisconsin weeping willow appears to be much hardier than the common type2 many forms4 ,white willow1 ,s4 alba1 and various varieties1 one of which is the ,golden willow4 ,tree willows are most valuable1 as a rule1 when used for temporary plantations or as nurses for better trees4 ,laurel-leaved willow1 ,s4 laurifolia ,a small tree used in cold regions for shelter-belts2 also a good ornamental tree4 ,see also under ,shrubs4 ,sassafras1 ,sassafras officinalis499 ,suitable in the borders of groups or for single specimens2 peculiar in winter2 too much neglected4 ,rowan or ,european mountain ash1 ,sorbus ,aucuparia 7,pyrus ,aucuparia74 ,service-tree1 ,s4 domestica4 ,fruit handsomer than that of the mountain ash and more persistent2 small tree4 ,oak-leaved mountain ash1 ,s4 hybrida 7,s4 quercifolia74 ,small tree1 deserving to be better known4 ,bald cypress1 ,taxodium distichum499 ,not entirely hardy at ,lansing1 ,mich42 often becomes scraggly after fifteen or twenty years1 but a good tree2 many cultural forms4 ,american linden or basswood1 ,tilia ,americana499 ,very valuable for single trees on large lawns1 or for roadsides4 ,european linden1 ,t4 vulgaris and ,t4 platyphyllos 7,t4 ,europaea of nurserymen is probably usually the latter74 ,has the general character of the ,american basswood4 ,european silver linden1 ,t4 tomentosa and varieties4 ,very handsome2 leaves silvery white beneath2 among others is a weeping variety4 ,american elm1 ,ulmus ,americana499 ,one of the most graceful and variable of trees2 useful for many purposes and a standard street tree4 ,cork elm1 ,u4 racemosa499 ,softer in aspect than the last1 and more picturesque in winter1 having prominent ridges of bark on its branches2 slow grower4 ,red or slippery elm1 ,u4 fulva499 ,occasionally useful in a group or shelter-belt2 a stiff grower4 ,english elm1 ,u4 campestris1 and ,scotch or wych elm1 ,u4 scabra 7,u4 mantana74 ,often planted1 but are inferior to ,u4 ,americana for street planting1 although useful in collections4 ,these have many horticultural forms4 ,non-coniferous trees for the ,south4 ,among deciduous trees for the region of ,washington and south may be mentioned3 ,acer1 the ,american and ,european species as for the ,north2 ,catalpa bignonioides and especially ,c4 speciosa2 celtis2 cercis1 both ,american and ,japanese2 flowering dogwood1 profusely native2 white ash2 ginkgo2 klreuteria2 sweet gum 7liquidambar72 ,american linden2 tulip tree2 magnolias much as for the ,north2 ,china-berry 7,melia ,azedarach72 ,texas umbrella-tree 7var4 umbraculiformis of the preceding72 mulberries2 oxydendrum2 paulownia2 oriental plane-tree2 native oaks of the regions2 ,robinia ,pseudacacia2 weeping willow2 ,sophora ,japonica2 ,sterculia platanifolia2 ,american elm4 ,broad-leaved evergreens of real tree size useful for the ,south may be found among the cherry laurels1 magnolias1 and oaks4 ,among the cherry laurels are3 ,portugal laurel 7,prunus ,lusitanica71 ,english cherry laurel in several forms 7,p4 ,laurocerasus71 and the 8mock-orange0 or 8wild orange0 7,p4 ,caroliniana74 ,in magnolia1 the splendid ,m4 grandiflora is everywhere used4 ,in oaks1 the live-oak 7,quercus ,virginiana1 known also as ,q4 virens and ,q4 sempervirens7 is the universal species4 ,the cork oak 7,q4 ,suber7 is also recommended4 ,,xvi3 ,the flower-garden of ,china asters with border1 one of the dusty millers 7,centaurea74 ,,xvi3 ,the flower-garden of ,china asters with border1 one of the dusty millers 7,centaurea74 #h4 ,,coniferous ,,evergreen ,,shrubs ,,and ,,trees ,in this country the word 8evergreen0 is understood to mean coniferous trees with persistent leaves1 as pines1 spruces1 firs1 cedars1 junipers1 arborvit1 retinosporas1 and the like4 ,these trees have always been favorites with plant lovers1 as they have very distinctive forms and other characteristics4 ,many of them are of the easiest culture4 ,it is a common notion that1 since spruces and other conifers grow so symmetrically1 they will not stand pruning2 but this is an error4 ,they may be pruned with as good effect as other trees1 and if they tend to grow too tall1 the leader may be stopped without fear4 ,a new leader will arise1 but in the meantime the upward growth of the tree will be somewhat checked1 and the effect will be to make the tree dense4 ,the tips of the branches may also be headed in with the same effect4 ,the beauty of an evergreen lies in its natural form2 therefore1 it should not be sheared into unusual shapes1 but a gentle trimming back1 as ,i suggested1 will tend to prevent the ,norway spruce and others from growing open and ragged4 ,after the tree attains some age1 #d or #e in4 may be taken off the ends of the main branches every year or two 7in spring before growth begins7 with good results4 ,this slight trimming is ordinarily done with ,waters's long-handled pruning shears4 ,there is much difference of opinion as to the proper time for the transplanting of evergreens1 which means that there is more than one season in which they may be moved4 ,it is ordinarily unsafe to transplant them in the fall in northern climates or bleak situations1 since the evaporation from the foliage during the winter is likely to injure the plant4 ,the best results are usually secured in spring or summer planting4 ,in spring they may be moved rather late1 just as new growth is beginning4 ,some persons also plant them in ,august or early ,september1 as the roots secure a hold on the soil before winter4 ,in the ,southern states transplanting may be done at most times of the year1 but late fall and early spring are usually advised4 ,in transplanting conifers1 it is very important that the roots be not exposed to the sun4 ,they should be moistened and covered with burlaps or other material4 ,the holes should be ready to receive them4 ,if the trees are large1 or if it has been necessary to trim in the roots1 the top should be cut when the tree is set4 ,large evergreens 7those #aj ft4 and more high7 are usually best transplanted late in winter1 at a time when a large ball of earth may be moved with them4 ,a trench is dug around the tree1 it being deepened a little day by day so that the frost can work into the earth and hold it in shape4 ,when the ball is thoroughly frozen1 it is hoisted on to a stone-boat or truck 7,fig4 #adh7 and moved to its new position4 ,perhaps the handsomest of all the native conifers of the northeastern ,united ,states is the ordinary hemlock1 or hemlock spruce 7the one so much used for lumber72 but it is usually difficult to move4 ,transplanted trees from nurseries are usually safest4 ,if the trees are taken from the wild1 they should be selected from open and sunny places4 ,for neat and compact effects near porches and along walks1 the dwarf retinosporas are very useful4 ,most of the pines and spruces are too coarse for planting very close to the residence4 ,they are better at some distance removed1 where they serve as a background to other planting4 ,if they are wanted for individual specimens1 they should be given plenty of room1 so that the limbs will not be crowded and the tree become misshapen4 ,whatever else is done to the spruces and firs1 the lower limbs should not be trimmed up1 at least not until the tree has become so old that the lowest branches die4 ,some species hold their branches much longer than others4 ,the oriental spruce 7,picea orientalis7 is one of the best in this respect4 ,the occasional slight heading-in1 that has been mentioned1 will tend to preserve the lower limbs1 and it will not be marked enough to alter the form of the tree4 ,the number of excellent coniferous evergreens now offered in the ,american trade is large4 ,they are slow of growth and require much room if good specimens are to be obtained2 but if the space can be had and the proper exposure secured1 no trees add greater dignity and distinction to an estate4 ,reliable comments on the rarer conifers may be found in the catalogues of the best nurserymen4 ,list of shrubby conifers4 ,the following list contains the most usual of the shrub-like coniferous evergreens1 with 99 to mark those native to this country4 ,the in this and the succeeding list marks those species that are found to be hardy at ,ottawa1 ,ontario1 and are recommended by the ,central ,experimental ,farm of ,canada4 ,dwarf arborvit1 ,thuja occidentalis499 ,there are many dwarf and compact varieties of arborvit1 most of which are excellent for small places4 ,the most desirable for general purposes1 and also the largest1 is the so-called ,siberian4 ,other very desirable forms are those sold as globosa1 ericoides1 compacta1 ,hovey1 ,ellwangeriana1 pyramidalis1 ,wareana 7or ,sibirica71 and aurea ,douglasii4 ,japanese arborvit or retinospora1 ,chamcyparis of various species4 ,retinosporas under names as follows3 ,cupressus ericoides1 #b ft41 with fine soft delicate green foliage that assumes a purplish tinge in winter2 ,c4 pisifera1 one of the best1 with a pendulous habit and bright green foliage2 ,c4 pisifera var4 filifera1 with drooping branches and thread-like pendulous branches2 ,c4 pisifera var4 plumosa1 more compact than ,p4 pisifera and feathery2 var4 aurea of the last1 8one of the most beautiful golden-leaved evergreen shrubs in cultivation40 ,juniper1 ,juniperus communis99 and garden varieties4 ,the juniper is a partially trailing plant1 of loose habit1 suitable for banks and rocky places4 ,there are upright and very formal varieties of it1 the best being those sold as var4 ,hibernica 7fastigiata71 8,irish juniper10 and var4 ,suecica1 8,swedish juniper40 ,northern juniper1 ,j4 ,sabina1 var4 prostrata99 ,one of the best of the low1 diffuse conifers2 var4 tamariscifolia1 #a-b ft4 ,chinese and ,japanese junipers in many forms1 ,j4 ,chinensis4 ,dwarf ,norway spruce1 ,picea excelsa1 dwarf forms4 ,several very dwarf sorts of the ,norway spruce are in cultivation1 some of which are to be recommended4 ,dwarf pine1 ,pinus montana1 var4 pumilio4 ,mugho pine1 ,pinus montana1 var4 ,mughus4 ,there are other desirable dwarf pines4 ,wild yew1 ,taxus ,canadensis499 ,common in woods2 a wide-spreading plant known as 8ground hemlock02 #c-d ft4 ,arboreous conifers4 ,the evergreen conifers that one is likely to plant may be roughly classed as pines2 spruces and firs2 cedars and junipers2 arborvit2 yews4 ,white ,pine1 ,pinus ,strobus499 ,the best native species for general planting2 retains its bright green color in winter4 ,austrian pine1 ,p4 ,austriaca4 ,hardy1 coarse1 and rugged2 suitable only for large areas2 foliage very dark4 ,scotch pine1 ,p4 sylvestris4 ,not so coarse as ,austrian pine1 with a lighter and bluer foliage4 ,red pine1 ,p4 resinosa99 ,valuable in groups and belts2 usually called 8,norway pine02 rather heavy in expression4 ,bull pine1 ,p4 ponderosa499 ,a strong majestic tree1 deserving to be better known in large grounds2 native westward4 ,cembrian pine1 ,pinus ,cembra4 ,a very fine slow-growing tree2 one of the few standard pines suitable for small places4 ,scrub pine1 ,p4 divaricata 7,p4 ,banksiana7499 ,a small tree1 more odd and picturesque than beautiful1 but desirable in certain places4 ,mugho pine1 ,p4 montana var4 ,mughus4 ,usually more a bush than a tree 7#b to #ab ft471 although it may attain a height of #bj-cj ft42 mentioned under ,shrubs4 ,norway spruce1 ,picea excelsa4 ,the most commonly planted spruce2 loses much of its peculiar beauty when thirty to fifty years of age2 several dwarf and weeping forms4 ,white spruce1 ,p4 alba499 ,one of the finest of the spruces2 a more compact grower than the last1 and not so coarse2 grows slowly4 ,oriental spruce1 ,p4 orientalis4 ,especially valuable from its habit of holding its lowest limbs2 grows slowly2 needs some shelter4 ,colorado blue spruce1 ,p4 pungens499 ,in color the finest of the conifers2 grows slowly2 seedlings vary much in blueness4 ,alcock's spruce1 ,p4 ,alcockiana4 ,excellent2 foliage has silvery under surfaces4 ,hemlock spruce1 ,tsuga ,canadensis499 ,the common lumber hemlock1 but excellent for hedges and as a lawn tree2 young trees may need partial protection from sun4 ,white fir1 ,abies concolor499 ,probably the best of the native firs for the northeastern region2 leaves broad1 glaucous4 ,nordmann's fir1 ,a4 ,nordmanniana4 ,excellent in every way2 leaves shining above and lighter beneath4 ,balsam fir1 ,a4 balsamea499 ,loses most of its beauty in fifteen or twenty years4 ,douglas fir1 ,pseudotsuga ,douglasii499 ,majestic tree of the northern ,pacific slope1 hardy in the east when grown from seeds from far north or high mountains4 ,red cedar1 ,juniperus ,virginiana99 ,a common tree1 ,north and ,south2 several horticultural varieties4 ,arborvitae 7white cedar1 erroneously71 ,thuja occidentalis499 ,becomes unattractive after ten or fifteen years on poor soils2 the horticultural varieties are excellent2 see p4 #ccc1 and ,hedges1 p4 #bbj4 ,japanese yew1 ,taxus cuspidata4 ,hardy small tree4 ,conifers for the ,south4 ,evergreen conifers1 trees and bushes1 for regions south of ,washington3 ,abies ,fraseri and ,a4 ,picea 7,a4 pectinata72 ,norway spruce2 true cedars1 ,cedrus ,atlantica and ,deodara2 cypress1 ,cupressus ,goveniana1 majestica1 sempervirens2 ,chamcyparis ,lawsoniana2 practically all junipers1 including the native cedar 7,juniperus ,virginiana72 practically all arborvit1 including the oriental or biota group2 retinosporas 7forms of chamcyparis and thuja of several kinds72 ,carolina hemlock1 ,tsuga ,caroliniana2 ,english yew1 ,taxus baccata2 ,libocedrus decurrens2 cephalotaxus and podocarpus2 cryptomeria2 ,bhotan pine1 ,pinus excelsa2 and the native pines of the regions4 #i4 ,,window-,,gardens ,although the making of window-gardens may not be properly a part of the planting and ornamenting of the home grounds1 yet the appearance of the residence has a marked effect on the attractiveness or unattractiveness of the premises2 and there is no better place than this in which to discuss the subject4 ,furthermore1 window-gardening is closely associated with various forms of temporary plant protection about the residence 7,fig4 #bfh74 ,window-gardens are of two types3 the window-box and porch-box type1 in which the plants are grown outside the window and which is a summer or warm-weather effort2 the interior or true window-garden1 made for the enjoyment of the family in its internal relations1 and which is chiefly a winter or cold-weather effort4 ,the window-box for outside effect4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfh4 ,a protection for chrysanthemums4 ,very good plants can be grown under a temporary shed cover4 ,the roof may be of glass1 oiled paper1 or even of wood4 ,such a shed cover will afford a very effective and handy protection for many plants4 ,handsomely finished boxes1 ornamental tiling1 and bracket work of wood and iron suitable for fitting out windows for the growing of plants1 are on the market2 but such1 while desirable1 are by no means necessary4 ,a stout pine box of a length corresponding to the width of the window1 about #aj inches wide and #f deep1 answers quite as well as a finer box1 since it will likely be some distance above the street1 and its sides1 moreover1 are soon covered by the vines4 ,a zinc tray of a size to fit into the wooden box may be ordered of the tinsmith4 ,it will tend to keep the soil from drying out so rapidly1 but it is not a necessity4 ,a few small holes in the bottom will provide for drainage2 but with carefulness in watering these are not necessary1 since the box by its exposed position will dry out readily during summer weather1 unless the position is a shaded one4 ,in the latter case provision for good drainage is always advisable4 ,since there is more or less cramping of roots1 it will be necessary to make the soil richer than would be required were the plants to grow in the garden4 ,the most desirable soil is one that does not pack hard like clay1 nor contract much when dry1 but remains porous and springy4 ,such a soil is found in the potting earth used by florists1 and it may be obtained from them at #ej cents to #a a barrel4 ,often the nature of the soil will be such as to make it desirable to have at hand a barrel of sharp sand for mixing with it1 to make it more porous and prevent baking4 ,a good filling for a deep box is a layer of clinkers or other drainage in the bottom1 a layer of pasture sod1 a layer of old cow manure1 and fill with fertile garden earth4 ,some window-gardeners pot the plants and then set them in the window-box1 filling the spaces between the pots with moist moss4 ,others plant them directly in the earth4 ,the former method1 as a general rule1 is to be preferred in the winter window-garden2 the latter in the summer4 ,the plants most valuable for outside boxes are those of drooping habit1 such as lobelias1 tropeolums1 othonna1 ,kenilworth ivy1 verbena 7,fig4 #bfi71 sweet alyssum1 and petunia4 ,such plants may occupy the front row1 while back of them may be the erect-growing plants1 as geraniums1 heliotropes1 begonias 7,plate ,,xx74 ,for shady situations the main dependence is on plants of graceful form or handsome foliage2 while for the sunny window the selection may be of blooming plants4 ,of the plants mentioned below for these two positions1 those marked with an asterisk 99 are of climbing habit1 and may be trained up about the sides of the window4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bfi4 ,bouquet of verbenas4 ,just what plants will be most suitable depends on the exposure4 ,for the shady side of the street1 the more delicate kinds of plants may be used4 ,for full exposure to the sun1 it will be necessary to choose the more vigorous-growing kinds4 ,in the latter position1 suitable plants for drooping would be3 tropeolums199 passifloras199 the single petunias1 sweet alyssum1 lobelias1 verbenas1 mesembryanthemums4 ,for erect-growing plants3 geraniums1 heliotropes1 phlox4 ,if the position is a shaded one1 the drooping plants might be of the following3 tradescantia1 ,kenilworth ivy1 senecio99 or parlor ivy1 sedums1 moneywort199 vinca1 smilax199 lygodium99 or climbing fern4 ,erect-growing plants would be dracenas1 palms1 ferns1 coleus1 centaurea1 spotted calla1 and others4 ,after the plants have filled the earth with roots1 it will be desirable to give the surface among them a very light sprinkling of bone-dust or a thicker coating of rotted manure from time to time during the summer2 or instead of this1 a watering with weak liquid manure about once a week4 ,this is not necessary1 however1 until the growth shows that the roots have about exhausted the soil4 ,in the fall the box may be placed on the inside of the window4 ,in this case it will be desirable to thin out the foliage somewhat1 shorten in some of the vines1 and perhaps remove some of the plants4 ,it will also be desirable to give a fresh coating of rich soil4 ,increased care will be necessary1 also1 in watering1 since the plants will have less light than previously1 and1 moreover1 there may be no provision for drainage4 ,porch-boxes may be made in the same general plan4 ,since the plants are likely to be injured in porch-boxes1 and since these boxes should have some architectural effect1 it is well to use abundantly of rather heavy greenery1 such as swordfern 7the common form of ,nephrolepis exaltata7 or the ,boston fern1 ,asparagus ,sprengeri1 wandering jew1 the large drooping vinca 7perhaps the variegated form71 aspidistra4 ,with these or similar things constituting the body of the box planting1 the flowering plants may be added to heighten the effect4 ,the inside window-garden1 or 8house plants40 ,the winter window-garden may consist simply of a jardinire1 or a few choice pot-plants on a stand at the window1 or of a considerable collection with more or less elaborate arrangements for their accommodation in the way of box1 brackets1 shelves1 and stands4 ,expensive arrangements are by no means necessary1 nor is a large collection4 ,the plants and flowers themselves are the main consideration1 and a small collection well cared for is better than a large one unless it can be easily accommodated and kept in good condition4 ,the box will be seen near at hand1 and so it may be more or less ornamental in character4 ,the sides may be covered with ornamental tile held in place by molding2 or a light latticework of wood surrounding the box is pretty4 ,but a neatly made and strong box of about the dimensions mentioned on page #ccg1 with a strip of molding at the top and bottom1 answers just as well2 and if painted green1 or some neutral shade1 only the plants will be seen or thought of4 ,brackets1 jardinires1 and stands may be purchased of any of the larger florists4 ,the box may consist of merely the wooden receptacle2 but a preferable arrangement is to make it about eight inches deep instead of six1 then have the tinsmith make a zinc tray to fit the box4 ,this is provided with a false wooden bottom1 with cracks for drainage1 two inches above the real bottom of the tray4 ,the plants will then have a vacant space below them into which drainage water may pass4 ,such a box may be thoroughly watered as the plants require without danger of the water running on the carpet4 ,of course1 a faucet should be provided at some suitable point on a level with the bottom of the tray1 to permit of its being drained every day or so if the water tends to accumulate4 ,it would not do to allow the water to remain long2 especially should it never rise to the false bottom1 as then the soil would be kept too wet4 ,the window for plants should have a southern1 southeastern1 or eastern exposure4 ,plants need all the light they can get in the winter1 especially those that are expected to bloom4 ,the window should be tight-fitting4 ,shutters and a curtain will be an advantage in cold weather4 ,plants like a certain uniformity in conditions4 ,it is very trying on them1 and often fatal to success1 to have them snug and warm one night and pinched in a temperature only a few degrees above freezing the next4 ,some plants will live in spite of it1 but they cannot be expected to prosper4 ,those whose rooms are heated with steam1 hot water1 or hot air will have to guard against keeping rooms too warm fully as much as keeping them too cool4 ,rooms in brick dwellings that have been warm all day1 if shut up and made snug in the evening1 will often keep warm over night without heat except in the coldest weather4 ,rooms in frame dwellings exposed on all sides soon cool down4 ,it is difficult to grow plants in rooms lighted by gas4 ,most living-rooms have air too dry for plants4 ,in such cases the bow-window may be set off from the room by glass doors2 one then has a miniature conservatory4 ,a pan of water on the stove or on the register and damp moss among the pots1 will help to afford plants the necessary humidity4 ,the foliage will need cleansing from time to time to free it from dust4 ,a bath tub provided with a ready outlet for the water is an excellent place for this purpose4 ,the plants may be turned on their sides and supported on a small box above the bottom of the tub4 ,then they may be freely syringed without danger of making the soil too wet4 ,it is usually advisable not to wet the flowers1 however1 especially the white waxen kinds1 like hyacinths4 ,the foliage of rex begonias should be cleansed with a piece of dry or only slightly moist cotton4 ,but if the leaves can be quickly dried off by placing them in the open air on mild days1 or moderately near the stove1 the foliage may be syringed4 ,some persons attach the box to the window1 or support it on brackets attached below the window-sill2 but a preferable arrangement is to support the box on a low and light stand of suitable height provided with rollers4 ,it may then be drawn back from the window1 turned around from time to time to give the plants light on all sides1 or turned with the attractive side in as may be desired4 ,often the plants are set directly in the soil2 but if they are kept in pots they may be rearranged1 and changed about to give those which need it more light4 ,larger plants that are to stand on shelves or brackets may be in porous earthenware pots2 but the smaller ones that are to fill the window-box may be placed in heavy paper pots4 ,the sides of these are flexible1 and the plants in them therefore may be crowded close together with great economy in space4 ,when pots are spaced1 damp sphagnum or other moss among them will hold them in place1 keep the soil from drying out too rapidly1 and at the same time give off moisture1 so grateful to the foliage4 ,in addition to the stand1 or box1 a bracket for one or more pots on either side of the window1 about one-third or half-way up1 will be desirable4 ,the bracket should turn on a basal hinge or pivot1 to admit of swinging it forward or backward4 ,these bracket plants usually suffer for moisture1 and are rather difficult to manage4 ,florists now usually grow plants suitable for window-gardens and winter flowering1 and any intelligent florist1 if asked1 will take pleasure in making out a suitable collection4 ,the plants should be ordered early in the fall2 the florist will then not be so crowded for time and can give the matter better attention4 ,most of the plants suitable for the winter window-garden belong to the groups that florists grow in their medium and cool houses4 ,the former are given a night temperature of about #fj1 the latter about #ej4 ,in each case the temperature is #aj to #ae higher for the daytime4 ,five degrees of variation below these temperatures will be allowable without any injurious effects2 even more may be borne1 but not without more or less check to the plants4 ,in bright1 sunny weather the day temperature may be higher than in cloudy and dark weather4 ,plants for an average night temperature of #fj 7trade names74 ,upright flowering plants1--,abutilons1 browallias1 calceolaria 8,lincoln ,park10 begonias1 bouvardias1 euphorbias1 scarlet sage1 richardia or calla1 heliotropes1 fuchsias1 ,chinese hibiscus1 jasmines1 single petunias1 swainsona1 billbergia1 freesias1 geraniums1 eupheas4 ,upright foliage plants4--,muehlenbeckia1 ,cycas revoluta1 ,dracna fragans and others1 palms1 cannas1 ,farfugium grande1 achyranthes1 ferns1 araucarias1 epiphyllums1 pandanus or 8screw pine10 ,pilea arborea1 ,ficus elastica1 ,grevillea robusta4 ,climbing plants4--,asparagus tenuissimus1 ,a4 plumosus1 ,coba scandens1 smilax1 ,japanese hop1 ,madeira vine 7,boussingaultia71 ,senecio mikanioides and ,s4 macroglossus 7parlor ivies74 ,see also list below4 ,low-growing1 trailing1 or drooping plants4--,these may be used for baskets and edgings4 ,flowering kinds are3 ,sweet alyssum1 lobelia1 ,fuchsia procumbens1 mesembryanthemum1 ,oxalis pendula1 #j4 floribunda and others1 ,russelia juncea1 ,mahernia odorata or honey-bell4 ,foliage plants of drooping habit4--,vincas1 ,saxifraga sarmentosa1 ,kenilworth ivy1 tradescantia or wandering jew1 ,festuca glauca99 othonna1 ,isolepsis gracilis199 ,english ivy1 ,selaginella denticulata1 and others4 ,some of these plants flower quite freely1 but the flowers are small and of secondary consideration4 ,those with an asterisk 99 droop but slightly4 ,plants for an average night temperature of #ej4 ,upright flowering plants4--,azaleas1 cyclamens1 carnations1 chrysanthemums1 geraniums1 ,chinese primroses1 stevias1 marguerite or ,paris daisy1 single petunias1 ,anthemis coronaria1 camellias1 ardisia 7berries71 cinerarias1 violets1 hyacinths1 narcissus1 tulips1 the ,easter lily when in bloom1 and others4 ,upright foliage plants4--,pittosporums1 palms1 aucuba1 euonymus 7golden and silvery variegated71 araucarias1 pandanus1 dusty millers4 ,climbing plants4--,english ivy1 maurandia1 senecio or parlor ivy1 lygodium 7climbing fern74 ,drooping or trailing plants4--,flowering kinds are3 ,sweet alyssum1 ,mahernia odorata1 ,russelia and ivy geranium4 ,bulbs in the window-garden4 ,bulbs flowering through the winter add to the list of house plants a charming variety4 ,the labor1 time1 and skill required is much less than for growing many of the larger plants more commonly used for winter decorations 7for instructions on growing bulbs out-of-doors1 see p4 #bha2 also the entries in ,chapter ,,viii74 ,hyacinths1 narcissus1 tulips1 and crocus1 and others can be made to flower in the winter without difficulty4 ,secure the bulbs so as to be able to pot them by the middle or last of ,october1 or if earlier all the better4 ,the soil should be rich sandy loam1 if possible2 if not1 the best that can be got1 to which about one-fourth the bulk of sand is added and mixed thoroughly4 ,if ordinary flower-pots are to be used1 place in the bottom a few pieces of broken pots1 charcoal1 or small stones for drainage1 then fill the pot with dirt so that when the bulbs are set on the dirt the top of the bulb is even with the rim of the pot4 ,fill around it with soil1 leaving just the tip of the bulb showing above the earth4 ,if the soil is heavy1 a good plan is to sprinkle a small handful of sand under the bulb to carry off the water1 as is done in the beds outdoors4 ,if one does not have pots1 he may use boxes4 ,starch boxes are a good size to use1 as they are not heavy to handle2 and excellent flowers are sometimes secured from bulbs planted in old tomato-cans4 ,if boxes or cans are used1 care must be taken to have holes in the bottoms to let the water run out4 ,a large hyacinth bulb will do well in a #e-;inch pot4 ,the same size pot will do for three or four narcissuses or eight to twelve crocuses4 ,after the bulbs are planted in the pots or other receptacles1 they should be placed in a cool place1 either in a cold pit or cellar1 or on the shady side of a building1 or1 better yet1 plunged or buried up to the rim of the pot in a shady border4 ,this is done to force the roots to grow while the top stands still1 as only the bulbs with good roots will give good flowers4 ,when the weather gets so cold that a crust is frozen on the soil1 the pots should be covered with a little straw1 and as the weather gets colder more straw must be used4 ,in six to eight weeks after planting the bulbs1 they should have made roots enough to grow the plant1 and they may be taken up and placed in a cool room for a week or so1 after which1 if they have started into growth1 they may be taken into a warmer room where they can have plenty of light4 ,they will grow very rapidly now and will want much water1 and after the flowers begin to show1 the pots may stand in a saucer of water all the time4 ,when just coming into bloom the plants may have full sunlight part of the time to help bring out the color of the flowers4 ,hyacinths1 tulips1 and narcissus all require similar treatment4 ,when well rooted1 which will be in six or eight weeks1 they are brought out and given a temperature of some #ee to #fj till the flowers appear1 when they should be kept in a cooler temperature1 say #ej4 ,the single ,roman hyacinth is an excellent house plant4 ,the flowers are small1 but they are graceful and are well adapted to cutting4 ,it is early4 ,the ,easter lily is managed the same way1 except to hasten its flowers it should be kept at not lower than #fj at night4 ,warmer will be better4 ,lily bulbs may be covered an inch or more deep in the pots4 ,freesias may be potted six or more in a pot of mellow soil1 and then started into growth at once4 ,at first they may be given a night temperature of #ej2 and #ee to #fj when they have begun to grow4 ,small bulbs1 as snowdrop and crocus1 are planted several or a dozen in a pot and buried1 or treated like hyacinths2 but they are very sensitive to heat1 and require to be given the light only when they have started to grow1 without any forcing4 ,forty to #de will be as warm as they ever need be kept4 ,watering house plants4 ,it is impossible to give rules for the watering of plants4 ,conditions that hold with one grower are different from those of another4 ,advice must be general4 ,give one good watering at the time of potting1 after which no water should be given until the plants really need it4 ,if1 on tapping the pot1 it gives out a clear ring1 it is an indication that water is needed4 ,in the case of a soft-wooded plant1 just before the leaves begin to show signs of wilt is the time for watering4 ,when plants are taken up from the ground1 or have their roots cut back in repotting1 gardeners rely1 after the first copious watering1 on syringing the tops two or three times each day1 until a new root-growth has started1 watering at the roots only when absolutely necessary4 ,plants that have been potted into larger pots will grow without the extra attention of syringing1 but those from the borders that have had their roots mutilated or shortened1 should be placed in a cool1 shady spot and be syringed often4 ,one soon becomes familiar with the wants of individual plants1 and can judge closely as to need of water4 ,all soft-wooded plants with a large leaf-surface need more water than hard-wooded plants1 and a plant in luxuriant growth of any kind more than one that has been cut back or become defoliated4 ,when plants are grown in living-rooms1 moisture must be supplied from some source1 and if no arrangement has been made for securing moist air1 the plants should be syringed often4 ,all plant-growers should learn to withhold water when plants are 8resting0 or not in active growth4 ,thus camellias1 azaleas1 rex begonias1 palms1 and many other things are usually not in their growing period in fall and midwinter1 and they should then have only sufficient water to keep them in condition4 ,when growth begins1 apply water2 and increase the water as the growth becomes more rapid4 ,hanging baskets4 ,to have a good hanging basket1 it is necessary that some careful provision be made to prevent too rapid drying out of the earth4 ,it is customary1 therefore1 to line the pot or basket with moss4 ,open wire baskets1 like a horse muzzle1 are often lined with moss and used for the growing of plants4 ,prepare the earth by mixing some well-decayed leafmold with rich garden loam1 thereby making an earth that will retain moisture4 ,hang the basket in a light place1 but still not in direct sunlight2 and1 if possible1 avoid putting it where it will be exposed to drying wind4 ,in order to water the basket1 it is often advisable to sink it into a pail or tub of water4 ,various plants are well adapted to hanging baskets4 ,among the drooping or vine-like kinds are the strawberry geranium1 ,kenilworth ivy1 maurandia1 ,german ivy1 canary-bird flower1 ,asparagus ,sprengeri1 ivy geranium1 trailing fuchsia1 wandering jew1 and othonna4 ,among the erect-growing plants that produce flowers1 ,lobelia ,erinus1 sweet alyssum1 petunias1 oxalis1 and various geraniums are to be recommended4 ,among foliage plants such things as coleus1 dusty miller1 begonia1 and some geraniums are adaptable4 ,aquarium4 ,a pleasant adjunct to a window-garden1 living room1 or conservatory1 is a large glass globe or glass box containing water1 in which plants and animals are living and growing4 ,a solid glass tank or globe is better than a box with glass sides1 because it does not leak1 but the box must be used if one wants a large aquarium4 ,for most persons it is better to buy the aquarium box than to attempt to make it4 ,five points are important in making and keeping an aquarium3 7#a7 ,the equilibrium between plant and animal life must be secured and maintained2 7#b7 the aquarium must be open on top to the air or well ventilated2 7#c7 the temperature should be kept between #dj and #ej for ordinary animals and plants 7do not place in full sun in a hot window72 7#d7 it is well to choose such animals for the aquarium as are adapted to life in still water2 7#e7 the water must be kept fresh1 either by the proper balance of plant and animal life or by changing the water frequently1 or by both4 ,the aquatic plants of the neighborhood may be kept in the aquarium1--such things as myriophyllums1 charas1 eel-grass1 duckmeats or lemnas1 cabomba or fish grass1 arrow-leafs or sagittaria1 and the like2 also the parrot's feather1 to be bought of florists 7a species of myriophyllum74 ,of animals1 there are fishes 7particularly minnows71 water insects1 tadpoles1 clams1 snails4 ,if the proper balance is maintained between plant and animal life1 it will not be necessary to change the water so frequently4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,ornamental ,,plants--,,instructions ,,on ,,particular ,,kinds ,in the preceding chapter advice is given that applies to groups or classes of plants1 and many lists are inserted to guide the grower in his choice or at least to suggest to him the kinds of things that may be grown for certain purposes or conditions4 ,it now remains to give instructions on the growing of particular kinds or species of plants4 ,it is impossible to include instructions on any great number of plants in a book like this4 ,it is assumed that the user of this book already knows how to grow the familiar or easily handled plants2 if he does not1 a book is not likely to help him very much4 ,in this chapter all such things as the common annuals and perennials and shrubs and trees are omitted4 ,if the reader is in doubt about any of these1 or desires information concerning them1 he will have to consult the catalogues of responsible seedsmen and nurserymen or cyclopedic works1 or go to some competent person for advice4 ,in this chapter are brought together instructions on the growing of such plants commonly found about home grounds and in window-gardens as seem to demand somewhat special or particular treatment or about which the novice is likely to ask2 and of course these instructions must be brief4 ,,xvii4 ,the peony4 ,one of the most steadfast of garden flowers4 ,,xvii4 ,the peony4 ,one of the most steadfast of garden flowers4 ,it may be repeated here that a person cannot expect to grow a plant satisfactorily until he learns the natural time of the plant to grow and to bloom4 ,many persons handle their begonias1 cacti1 and azaleas as if they should be active the whole year round4 ,the key to the situation is water3 at what part of the year to withhold and at what part to apply is one of the very first things to learn4 ,abutilons1 or flowering maples as they are often called1 make good house plants and bedding plants4 ,nearly all house gardeners have at least one plant4 ,common abutilons may be grown from seed or from cuttings of young wood4 ,if the former1 the seed should be sown in ,february or ,march in a temperature of not less than #fj4 ,the seedlings should be potted when about four to six leaves have grown1 in a rich sandy soil4 ,frequent pottings should be made to insure a rapid growth1 making plants large enough to flower by fall4 ,or the seedlings may be planted out in the border when danger of frost is over1 and taken up in the fall before frost2 these plants will bloom all winter4 ,about one half of the newer growth should be cut off when they are taken up1 as they are very liable to spindle up when grown in the house4 ,when grown from cuttings1 young wood should be used1 which1 after being well rooted1 may be treated in the same way as the seedlings4 ,the varieties with variegated leaves have been improved until the foliage effects are equal to the flowers of some varieties2 and these are a great addition to the conservatory or window garden4 ,the staple spotted-leaved type is ,a4 ,thompsoni4 ,a compact form1 now much used for bedding and other outdoor work1 is ,savitzii1 which is a horticultural variety1 not a distinct species4 ,the old-fashioned green-leaved ,a4 striatum1 from which ,a4 ,thompsoni has probably sprung1 is one of the best4 ,a4 megapotamicum or vexillarium is a trailing or drooping red-and-yellow-flowered species that is excellent for baskets1 although not now much seen4 ,it propagates readily from seed4 ,there is a form with spotted leaves4 ,abutilons are most satisfactory for house plants when they are not much more than a year old4 ,they need no special treatment4 ,agapanthus1 or ,african lily 7,agapanthus umbellatus and several varieties74--,a tuberous-rooted1 well-known conservatory or window plant1 blooming in summer4 ,excellent for porch and yard decoration4 ,it lends itself to many conditions and proves satisfactory a large part of the year1 the leaves forming a green arch over the pot1 covering it entirely in a well-grown specimen4 ,the flowers are borne in a large cluster on stems growing #b-c ft4 high1 as many as two or three hundred bright blue flowers often forming on a single plant4 ,a large1 well-grown plant throws up a number of flower-stalks through the early season4 ,the one essential to free growth is an abundance of water and an occasional application of manure water4 ,propagation is effected by division of the offsets1 which may be broken from the main plant in early spring4 ,after flowering1 gradually lessen the quantity of water until they are placed in winter quarters1 which should be a position free from frost and moderately dry4 ,the agapanthus1 being a heavy feeder1 should be grown in strong loam to which is added well-rotted manure and a little sand4 ,when dormant1 the roots will withstand a little frost4 ,alstremeria4--,the alstremerias 7of several species7 belong to the amaryllis family1 being tuberous-rooted plants1 having leafy stems terminating in a cluster of ten to fifty small lily-shaped flowers of rich colors in summer4 ,most of the alstremerias should be given pot culture1 as they are easily grown and are not hardy in the open in the ,north4 ,the culture is nearly that of the amaryllis1--a good1 fibrous loam with a little sand1 potting the tubers in early spring or late fall4 ,start the plants slowly1 giving only enough water to cause root growth2 but after growth has become established1 a quantity of water may be given4 ,after flowering they may be treated as are amaryllis or agapanthus4 ,the roots may be divided1 and the old and weak parts shaken out4 ,the plants grow #a-c ft4 high4 ,the flowers often have odd colors4 ,amaryllis4--,the popular name of a variety of house or conservatory tender bulbs1 but properly applied only to the ,belladonna lily4 ,most of them are hippeastrums1 but the culture of all is similar4 ,they are satisfactory house plants for spring and summer bloom4 ,one difficulty with their culture is the habit of the flower-stalk starting into growth before the leaves grow4 ,this is caused in most cases by stimulating root growth before the bulb has had sufficient rest4 ,the bulbs should be dormant four or five months in a dry place with a temperature of about #ej4 ,when wanted to be brought into flower1 the bulbs1 if to be repotted1 should have all the dirt shaken off and potted in soil composed of fibrous loam and leafmold1 to which should be added a little sand4 ,if the loam is heavy1 place the pot in a warm situation2 a spent hotbed is a good place4 ,water as needed1 and as the flowers develop liquid manure may be given4 ,if large clumps are well established in #h-or #aj-;inch pots1 they may be top-dressed with new soil containing rotted manure1 and as growth increases liquid manure may be given twice a week until the flowers open4 ,after flowering1 gradually withhold water until the leaves die1 or plunge the pots in the open1 in a sunny place4 ,the most popular species for window-gardens is ,a4 ,johnsoni 7properly a hippeastrum71 with red flowers4 ,figs4 #beg1 #bfa4 ,bulbs received from dealers should be placed in pots not much broader than the bulb1 and the neck of the bulb should not be covered4 ,keep rather dry until active growth begins4 ,the ripened bulbs1 in fall1 may be stored as potatoes1 and then brought out in spring as rapidly as any of them show signs of growth4 ,anemone4--,the wind-flowers are hardy perennials1 of easy culture1 one group 7the ,anemone coronaria1 fulgens1 and hortensis forms7 being treated as bulbs4 ,these tuberous-rooted plants should be planted late in ,september or early in ,october1 in a well-enriched sheltered border1 setting the tubers #c in4 deep and #d-f in4 apart4 ,the surface of the border should be mulched with leaves or strawy manure through the severe winter weather1 uncovering the soil in ,march4 ,the flowers will appear in ,april or ,may1 and in ,june or ,july the tubers should be taken up and placed in dry sand until the following fall4 ,these plants are not as well known as they should be4 ,the range of color is very wide4 ,the flowers are often #b in4 across1 and are lasting4 ,the tubers may be planted in pots1 bringing them into the conservatory or house at intervals through the winter1 where they make an excellent showing when in bloom4 ,the ,japanese anemone is a wholly different plant from the above4 ,there are white-flowered and red-flowered varieties4 ,the best known is ,a4 ,japonica var4 alba1 or ,honorine ,jobert4 ,this species blooms from ,august to ,november1 and is at that season the finest of border plants4 ,the pure white flowers1 with lemon-colored stamens1 are held well up on stalks #b-c ft4 high4 ,the flower-stems are long and excellent for cutting4 ,this species may be propagated by division of the plants or by seed4 ,the former method should be employed in the spring2 the latter1 as soon as the seeds are ripe in the fall4 ,sow the seed in boxes in a warm1 sheltered situation in the border or under glass4 ,the seed should be covered lightly with soil containing a quantity of sand and not allowed to become dry4 ,a well-enriched1 sheltered position in a border should be given4 ,the little wild wind-flowers are easily colonized in a hardy border4 ,aralia1 ,a4 ,sieboldii 7properly ,fatsia ,japonica and ,f4 papyrifera71 as it is sometimes called1 and the variety variegata1 with large1 palmlike leaves1 are grown for their tropical appearance4 ,sow in ,february1 in shallow trays and light soil1 in a temperature of #fe4 ,continue the temperature4 ,when two or three leaves have formed1 transplant into other trays #a in4 apart4 ,sprinkle them with a fine rose or spray2 and do not allow them to suffer for water4 ,later transfer them to small pots and repot them as they grow4 ,plant out in beds after the weather has become warm and settled4 ,half-hardy perennials in the ,north1 becoming #c ft4 or more high2 a shrub in the ,south and in ,california4 ,used often in subtropical work4 ,araucaria1 or ,norfolk ,island pine1 is now sold in pots by florists as a window plant4 ,there are several species4 ,the greenhouse specimens are the juvenile state of plants that become large trees in their native regions2 therefore1 it is not to be expected that they will keep shapely and within bounds indefinitely4 ,the common species 7,a4 excelsa7 makes a symmetrical evergreen subject4 ,it keeps well in a cool window1 or on the veranda in the summer4 ,protect it from direct sunlight1 and give plenty of room4 ,if the plant begins to fail1 return it to the florist for recuperation1 or procure a new plant4 ,auricula4--,a half-hardy perennial of the primrose tribe 7,primula ,auricula71 very popular in ,europe1 but little grown in ,america on account of the hot1 dry summers4 ,in this country auriculas are usually propagated by seed1 as for cineraria2 but special varieties are perpetuated by offsets4 ,seeds sown in ,february or ,march should give blooming plants for the next ,february or ,march4 ,keep the plants cool and moist1 and away from the direct sun during the summer4 ,gardeners usually grow them in frames4 ,in the fall1 they are potted into #c-;in4 or #d-;in4 pots1 and made to bloom either in frames as for violets or in a cool conservatory or greenhouse4 ,in ,april1 after blooming has ceased1 repot the plants and treat as the previous year4 ,as with most annual-blooming perennials1 best results are to be expected with year-old or two-year-old plants4 ,auriculas grow #f-h in4 high4 ,colors white and many shades of red and blue4 ,azaleas are excellent outdoor and greenhouse shrubs1 and are sometimes seen in windows4 ,they are less grown in this country than in ,europe1 largely because of our hot1 dry summers and severe winters4 ,there are two common types or classes of azaleas3 the hardy or ,ghent azaleas1 and the ,indian azaleas4 ,the latter are the familiar large-flowered azaleas of conservatories and window-gardens4 ,ghent azaleas thrive in the open along the seacoast as far north as southern ,new ,england4 ,they require a sandy peaty soil1 but are treated as other shrubs are4 ,the large flower-buds are liable to injury from the warm suns of late winter and early spring1 and to avoid this injury the plants are often protected by covers or shades of brush4 ,in the interior country1 little attempt is made to flower azaleas permanently in the open1 although they may be grown if carefully tended and well protected4 ,both ,ghent and ,indian azaleas are excellent pot-plants for bloom in late winter and spring4 ,the plants are imported in great numbers from ,europe in fall1 and it is better to buy these plants than to attempt to propagate them4 ,pot them up in large-sized pots1 keep them cool and backward for a time until they are established1 then take them into a conservatory temperature in which carnations and roses thrive4 ,they should be potted in a soil of half peat or well-decayed mold and half rich loam2 add a little sand4 ,pot firmly1 and be sure to provide sufficient drainage4 ,keep off red spider by syringing4 ,after blooming1 the plants may be thinned by pruning out the straggling growths1 and repotted4 ,set them in a frame or in a semi-shaded place during summer1 and see that they make a good growth4 ,the wood should be well ripened in the fall4 ,after cold weather sets in1 keep the ,indian or evergreen kinds half dormant by setting them in a cool1 dull-lighted cellar or pit1 bringing them in when wanted for bloom4 ,the ,ghent or deciduous kinds may be touched with frost without injury2 and they may be kept in a cellar until wanted4 ,begonias are familiar tender bedding and house plants4 ,next to the geranium1 begonias are probably the most popular for house culture of the entire plant list4 ,the ease of culture1 great variety of kinds1 profusion of bloom or richness of foliage1 together with their adaptability to shade1 make them very desirable4 ,begonias may be divided into three sections3 the fibrous-rooted class1 which contains the winter-flowering1 branching kinds2 the rex forms1 or beefsteak geraniums1 having large ornamental leaves2 the tuberous-rooted1 those that bloom through the summer1 the tuber resting in the winter4 ,the fibrous-rooted kinds may be propagated by seed or cuttings1 the latter being the usual method4 ,cuttings of half-ripened wood root easily1 making a rapid growth1 the plants flowering in a few months4 ,the rex type1 having no branches1 is propagated from the leaves4 ,the large mature leaves are used4 ,the leaf may be cut into sections1 having at the base a union of two ribs4 ,these pieces of leaves may be inserted in the sand as any other cutting4 ,or a whole leaf may be used1 cutting through the ribs at intervals and laying the leaf flat on the propagating bench or other warm1 moist place4 ,in a short time young plants having roots of their own will form4 ,these may be potted when large enough to handle1 and will soon make good plants 7,fig #abe74 ,rex begonias usually grow little during winter1 and they should therefore be kept fairly dry and no effort made to push them4 ,be sure that the pots are well drained1 so that the soil does not become sour4 ,new plants--those a year or so old--are usually most satisfactory4 ,keep them away from direct sunlight4 ,an insidious disease of rex begonia leaves has recently made its appearance4 ,the best treatment yet known is to propagate fresh plants1 throwing away the old stock and the dirt in which it is grown4 ,the tuberous-rooted begonias make excellent bedding plants for those who learn their simple but imperative requirements4 ,they are also good pot subjects for summer4 ,the amateur would better not attempt to grow the tuberous begonias from seed4 ,he should purchase good two-year tubers4 ,these should be able to run for two or three years before they are so old or so much spent that they give unsatisfactory results4 ,in the ,north1 the tubers are started indoors1 for bedding1 in ,february or early ,march in a rather warm temperature4 ,they will fill a five-inch pot before they are ready to be turned out into the ground4 ,they should not be planted out till the weather is thoroughly settled1 for they will not stand frost or unfavorable climatic conditions4 ,the plants should be given a soil that holds moisture1 but is yet well drained4 ,they will not do well in water-logged ground4 ,they should have partial shade2 near the north side of a building is a good place for them4 ,too much watering makes them soft and they tend to break down4 ,keep the foliage dry1 particularly in sunny weather2 the watering should be done from underneath4 ,after blooming1 lift the bulbs1 dry them off1 and keep over winter in a cool place4 ,they may be packed in shallow boxes in dry earth or sand4 ,florists sometimes divide the tubers just after growth starts in the spring1 so that a good eye may be got with each plant2 but the amateur would better use the entire tuber1 unless he desires to increase or multiply some particular plant4 ,if the house gardener desires to raise tuberous begonias from seed1 he must be prepared to exercise much patience4 ,the seeds1 like those of all begonias1 are very small1 and should be sown with great care4 ,start the seeds in late winter4 ,simply sprinkle them on the surface of the soil1 which should be a mixture of leafmold and sand1 with the addition of a small quantity of fibrous loam4 ,watering should be done by setting the pot or box in which the seeds are sown in water1 allowing the moisture to ascend through the soil4 ,when the soil has become completely saturated1 set the box in a shady situation1 covering it with glass or some other object until the tiny seedlings appear4 ,never allow the soil to become dry4 ,the seedlings should be transplanted1 as soon as they can be handled1 into boxes or pots containing the same mixture of soil1 setting each plant down to the seed-leaf4 ,they will need three or four transplantings before they reach the blooming stage1 and at each one after the first1 the proportion of fibrous loam may be increased until the soil is composed of one-third each of loam1 sand1 and leafmold4 ,the addition of a little well-rotted manure may be made at the last transplanting4 ,cactus4--,various kinds of cactus are often seen in small collections of house plants1 to which they add interest and oddity1 being different from other plants4 ,most cacti are easy to grow1 requiring little care and enduring the heat and dryness of a living room much better than most other plants4 ,their requirements are ample drainage and open soil4 ,cactus growers usually make a soil by mixing pulverized plaster or lime refuse with garden loam1 using about two-thirds of the loam4 ,the very fine parts1 or dust1 of the plaster1 are blown out1 else the soil is likely to cement4 ,they may be rested at any season by simply setting them away in a dry place for two or three months1 and bringing them into heat and light when they are wanted4 ,as new growth advances they should have water occasionally1 and when in bloom1 they should be watered freely4 ,withhold water gradually after blooming until they are to be rested4 ,some of the most common species in cultivation are the phyllocactus species1 often called the night-blooming cereus4 ,these are not the true night-blooming cereuses1 which have angular or cylindrical stems1 covered with bristles1 while these have flat1 leaf-like branches2 the flowers of these1 however1 are very much like the cereus1 opening at evening and closing before morning1 and as the phyllocacti may be grown with greater ease1 blooming on smaller and younger plants1 they are to be recommended4 ,the true night-blooming cereuses are species of the genus ,cereus4 ,the commonest one is ,c4 nycticalus1 but ,c4 grandiflorus1 ,c4 triangularis and others are occasionally seen4 ,these plants all have long rod-like stems which are cylindrical or angular4 ,these stems often reach a height of #aj to #cj ft41 and they need support4 ,they should be trained along a pillar or tied to a stake4 ,they are uninteresting leafless things during a large part of the year2 but in midsummer1 after they are three or more years old1 they throw out their great tubular flowers1 which open at nightfall and wither and die when the light strikes them next morning4 ,they are very easily grown1 either in pots or planted in the natural soil in the conservatory4 ,the only special care they need is good drainage at the roots1 so that the soil will not become soggy4 ,the epiphyllum1 or lobster cactus1 or crab cactus1 is one of the best of the family1 easy of culture4 ,it bears bright-colored blossoms at the end of each joint4 ,when in flower1 which will be in the winter months1 it requires a richer soil than the other cacti4 ,a suitable soil is made of two-thirds fibrous loam and one third leafmold2 usually it is best to add sand or pulverized brick4 ,in fall and early winter1 keep rather dry1 giving more water as the plant comes into bloom4 ,opuntias1 or prickly pears1 are often grown as border plants through the summer4 ,in fact1 all the family may be planted out1 and if a number of kinds are set in a bed together1 they make a striking addition to the garden4 ,be very careful not to bruise the plants4 ,it is better to plunge them in the pots than to turn them out of the pots4 ,caladium4--,tuberous-rooted1 tender perennial plants used for conservatory decoration1 and also for subtropical and bold effects in the lawn 7,plate ,,iv74 ,the plants commonly known under this name are really colocasias4 ,the roots should be dormant in the winter1 being kept in a warm cellar or under a greenhouse bench1 where they are not liable to frost or dampness4 ,the roots are usually covered with earth1 but they are kept dry4 ,early in spring the roots are put into boxes or pots and are started into growth1 so that by the time settled weather comes they will be #a or #b feet high and ready to set directly into soil4 ,when set out of doors1 they should be protected from strong winds1 and from the full glare of direct sunlight4 ,the soil should be rich and deep1 and the plants should have an abundance of water4 ,they do well about ponds 7see ,plate ,x74 ,caladiums are most excellent plants for striking effects1 especially against a house1 high shrubbery1 or other background4 ,if they are planted by themselves1 they should be in clumps rather than scattered as single specimens1 as the effect is better4 ,see that they get a good start before they are planted in the open ground4 ,as soon as killed down by frost1 dig them1 dry the roots of superfluous moisture1 and store till wanted in late winter or spring4 ,calceolaria4--,the calceolarias are small greenhouse herbs sometimes used in the window-garden4 ,they are not very satisfactory plants for window treatment1 however1 since they suffer from dry atmosphere and from sudden changes of temperature4 ,the calceolarias are grown from seeds4 ,if the seeds are sown in early summer and the young plants are transplanted as they need1 flowering specimens may be had for the late fall and early winter4 ,in the growing of the young plants1 always avoid exposing them to direct sunlight2 but they should be given a place that has an abundance of screened or tempered light4 ,a new crop of plants should be raised each year4 ,there is a race of shrubby calceolarias1 but it is little known in this country4 ,one or two species are annuals adaptable to cultivation in the open garden1 and their little ladyslipper-like flowers are attractive4 ,however1 they are of secondary importance as annual garden flowers4 ,calla 7properly ,richardia71 ,egyptian lily4--,the calla is one of the most satisfactory of winter house-plants1 lending itself to various conditions4 ,the requirements of the calla are rich soil and an abundance of water1 with the roots confined in as small a space as possible4 ,if a too large pot is used1 the growth of foliage will be very rank1 at the expense of the flowers2 but by using a smaller-sized pot and applying liquid manure1 the flowers will be produced freely4 ,a #f-;inch pot will be large enough for all but an exceptionally large bulb or tuber4 ,if desired1 a number of tubers may be grown together in a larger pot4 ,the soil should be very rich but fibrous--at least one third well-rotted manure will be none too much1 mixed with equal parts of fibrous loam and sharp sand4 ,the tubers should be planted firmly and the pots set in a cool place to make roots4 ,after the roots have partially filled the pot1 the plant may be brought into heat and given a sunny position and an abundance of water4 ,an occasional sponging or washing of the leaves will free them from dust4 ,no other treatment will be required until the flowers appear1 when liquid manure may be given4,the plant will thrive all the better at this time if the pot is placed in a saucer of water4 ,in fact1 the calla will grow well in an aquarium4 ,the calla may be grown through the entire year1 but it will prove more satisfactory1 both in leaf and flower1 if rested through part of the summer4 ,this may be done by laying the pots on their sides in a dry shady place under shrubbery1 or if in the open slightly covered with straw or other litter to keep the roots from becoming extremely dry4 ,in ,september or ,october they may be shaken out1 cleaning off all the old soil1 and repotted1 as already mentioned4 ,the offsets may be taken off and set in small pots and given a year's growth1 resting them the second year and having them in flower that winter4 ,the spotted calla has variegated foliage and is a good plant for mixed collections4 ,this blooms in the spring1 which will lengthen the season of calla bloom4 ,the treatment of this is similar to that of the common calla4 ,camellias are half-hardy woody plants1 blooming in late winter and spring4 ,years ago camellias were very popular1 but they have been crowded out by the informal flowers of recent times4 ,their time will come again4 ,during the blooming season keep them cool--say not over #ej at night and a little higher by day4 ,when blooming is done they begin to grow2 then give them more heat and plenty of water4 ,see that they are well ripened by winter with large plump flower-buds4 ,if they are neglected or kept too dry during their growing season 7in summer7 they will drop their buds in fall4 ,the soil for camellias should be fibrous and fertile1 compounded of rotted sod1 leafmold1 old cow manure1 and sufficient sand for good drainage4 ,always screen them from direct sunlight4 ,do not try to force them in early winter1 after the growth has ceased4 ,their summer quarters may be in a protected place in the open air4 ,camellias are propagated by cuttings in winter1 which should give blooming plants in two years4 ,cannas are among the most ornamental and important plants used in decorative gardening4 ,they make fine herbaceous hedges1 groups1 masses1 and--when desirable--good center plants for beds4 ,they are much used for subtropical effects 7see ,plate ,v74 ,cannas grow #c to #aj feet or more high4 ,formerly they were valued chiefly for their foliage1 but since the introduction1 in #ahhd1 of the ,crozy ,dwarf ,french type with its showy flowers1 cannas are grown as much for their bloom as for their foliage effects4 ,the flowers of these new kinds are as large as those of gladioli1 and are of various shades of yellow and red1 with banded and spotted forms4 ,these flowering kinds grow about #c feet high4 ,the older forms are taller4 ,in both sections there are green-leaved and dark coppery-red-leaved varieties4 ,the canna may be grown from seed and had in bloom the first year by sowing in ,february or ,march1 in boxes or pots placed in hotbeds or a warm house1 first soaking the seeds in warm water for a short time or filing a small notch through the coat of each seed 7avoiding the round germinating point74 ,it requires two years to raise strong plants of the old-fashioned tall cannas from seed4 ,sow in light1 sandy soil1 where the earth may be kept at #gj till after germination4 ,after the plants have got well up1 transplant them to about #c or #d inches apart1 or place in pots #c inches wide1 in good rich soil4 ,they may now be kept at #fj4 ,the majority of cannas1 however1 are grown from pieces of the roots 7rhizomes71 each piece having a bud4 ,the roots may be divided at any time in the winter1 and if early flowers and foliage are wanted1 the pieces may be planted in a hotbed or warmhouse in early ,april1 started into growth1 and planted out where wanted as soon as the ground has warmed and all danger of frost is over4 ,a hardening of the plants1 by leaving the sash off the hotbeds1 or setting the plants in shallow boxes and placing the boxes in a sheltered position through ,may1 not forgetting a liberal supply of water1 will fit the plants to take kindly to the final planting out4 ,plant out roots or started plants when there is no longer danger of frost4 ,for mass effects1 the plants may stand twelve to eighteen inches apart2 for individual bloom twenty to twenty-four inches or more4 ,some gardeners plant them not closer than twenty to twenty-four inches for mass beds1 if the soil is good and the plants strong4 ,give them a warm sunny place4 ,the old 7foliage7 sorts may be left out late to ripen up the fleshy root-stocks4 ,cut the tops off immediately after frost4 ,the roots are safe in the ground as long as it does not freeze4 ,dig1 and dry or 8cure0 for a few days1 then winter them like potatoes in the cellar4 ,it is a common mistake to dig canna roots too early4 ,the ,french sorts are commonly thought to keep best if kept growing somewhat during the winter2 but if managed right1 they may be carried over like the others4 ,immediately after frost1 cut off the tops next the ground4 ,cover the stumps with a little soil and leave the roots in the ground till well ripened4 ,clean them after digging1 and cure or dry them for a week or more in the open air and sun1 taking them indoors at night4 ,then place them away from frost in a cool1 dry place4 ,carnations are now among the most popular florists' flowers2 but it is not generally known that they be easily grown in the outdoor garden4 ,they are of two types1 the outdoor or garden varieties1 and the indoor or forcing kinds4 ,normally1 the carnation is a hardy perennial1 but the garden kinds1 or marguerites1 are usually treated as annuals4 ,the forcing kinds are flowered but once1 new plants being grown each year from cuttings4 ,marguerite carnations bloom the year the seed is sown1 and with a slight protection will bloom freely the second year4 ,they make attractive house plants if potted in the fall4 ,the seeds of these carnations should be sown in boxes in ,march and the young plants set out as early as possible1 pinching out the center of the plant to make them branch freely4 ,give the same space as for garden pinks4 ,the winter-flowering carnations have become prime favorites with all flower lovers1 and a collection of winter house-plants seems incomplete without them4 ,carnations grow readily from cuttings made of the suckers that form around the base of the stem1 the side shoots of the flowering stem1 or the main shoots before they show flower-buds4 ,the cuttings from the base make the best plants in most cases4 ,these cuttings may be taken from a plant at any time through the fall or winter1 rooted in sand and potted up1 to be held in pots until the planting out time in the spring1 usually in ,april1 or any time when the ground is ready to handle4 ,care should be taken to pinch out the tops of the young plants while growing in the pot1 and later while in the ground1 causing them to grow stocky and send out new growths along the stem4 ,the young plants should be grown cool1 a temperature of #de suiting them well4 ,attention should be given to spraying the cuttings each day while in the house to keep down the red spider1 which is very partial to the carnation4 ,in the summer1 the plants are grown in the field1 and not in pots1 being transplanted from the cutting-box4 ,the soil in which they are to be planted should be moderately rich and loose4 ,clean cultivation should be given throughout the summer4 ,frequently pinch out the tops4 ,the plants are taken up in ,september and potted firmly1 and well watered2 then set in a cool1 partially shaded situation until root growth has started1 and watering the plant as it shows need of water4 ,the usual living-room conditions as to moisture and heat are not such as the carnation demands1 and care must be taken to overcome the dryness by spraying the foliage and setting the plant in a position not exposed to the direct heat of a stove or the sun4 ,in commercial houses1 it is not often necessary to spray established plants4 ,pick off most or all of the side buds1 in order to add to the size of the leading flowers4 ,after all is said1 it is probably advisable in most cases to purchase the plants when in bloom from a florist1 and after blooming either throw them away or store them for planting out in the spring1 when they will bloom throughout the summer4 ,if conditions are right1 the rust should not be very troublesome1 if the start was made with clean stock4 ,keep all rusted leaves picked off4 ,century plants or agaves are popular plants for the window-garden or conservatory1 requiring little care and growing slowly1 thus needing repotting only at long intervals4 ,when the plants have outgrown their usefulness as house-plants1 they are still valuable as porch decorations1 for plunging in rock-work1 or about rustic nooks4 ,the striped-leaved variety is the most desirable1 but the normal type1 with its blue-gray leaves1 is highly ornamental4 ,there are a number of dwarf species of agave that are not so common1 although they may be grown with ease4 ,such plants add novelty to a collection1 and may be used through the summer as noted above or plunged with cactus in a bed of tropical plants4 ,all succeed well in loam and sand in equal parts1 with a little leafmold in the case of the small varieties4 ,the more common species are propagated by suckers from around the base of the established plants4 ,a few kinds having no suckers must be grown from seed4 ,as to watering1 they demand no special care4 ,agaves will not stand frost to any extent4 ,when the head throws up its great stem and blooms1 it may exhaust itself and die2 but this may be far short of a century4 ,some species bloom more than once4 ,chrysanthemums are of many kinds1 some being annual flower-garden plants1 some perennial border subjects1 and one form is the universal florists' plant4 ,in chrysanthemums are now included the pyrethrums4 ,the annual chrysanthemums must not be confounded with the well-known fall-flowering kinds1 as they will prove a disappointment if one expects large flowers of all colors and shapes4 ,the annuals are mostly coarse-growing plants1 with an abundance of bloom and a rank smell4 ,the flowers are single in most cases1 and not very lasting4 ,they are useful for massing and also for cut-flowers4 ,they are among the easiest of hardy annuals to grow4 ,the stoniest part of the garden will usually suit them4 ,colors white and shades of yellow1 the flowers daisy-like2 #a-c ft4 ,amongst perennial kinds1 ,chrysanthemum frutescens is the well-known ,paris daisy or marguerite1 one of the most popular of the genus4 ,this makes a good pot-plant for the window-garden1 blooming throughout the winter and spring months4 ,it is usually propagated by cuttings1 which1 if taken in spring1 will give large blooming plants for the next winter4 ,gradually transfer to larger pots or boxes1 until the plants finally stand in #f-;inch or #h-;inch pots or in small soap boxes4 ,there is a fine yellow-flowered variety4 ,the marguerite daisy is much grown out-of-doors in ,california4 ,the hardy perennial kinds are small-flowered1 late-blooming plants1 known to many old people as 8artemisias40 ,they have been improved of late years1 and they are very satisfactory plants of easy culture4 ,the plants should be renewed from seed every year or two4 ,in variety of form and color1 and in size of bloom1 the florists' chrysanthemum is one of the most wonderful of plants4 ,it is a late autumn flower1 and it needs little artificial heat to bring it to perfection4 ,the great blooms of the exhibitions are produced by growing only one flower to a plant and by feeding the plant heavily4 ,it is hardly possible for the amateur to grow such specimen flowers as the professional florist or gardener does2 neither is it necessary4 ,a well-grown plant with fourteen to twenty flowers is far more satisfactory as a window-plant than a long1 stiff stem with only one immense flower at the apex4 ,the culture is simple1 much more so than that of many of the plants commonly grown for house decoration4 ,although the season of bloom is short1 the satisfaction of having a fall display of flowers before the geraniums1 begonias1 and other house-plants have recovered from their removal from out of doors1 repays all efforts4 ,very good plants can be grown under a temporary shed cover1 as shown in ,fig4 #bfh4 ,the roof need not necessarily be of glass4 ,under such a cover1 also1 potted plants1 in bloom1 may be set for protection when the weather becomes too cold4 ,cuttings taken in ,march or ,april1 planted out in the border in ,may1 well tended through the summer and lifted before frost in ,september1 will bloom in ,october or ,november4 ,the ground in which the plants are to bloom should be moderately rich and moist4 ,the plants may be tied to stakes4 ,when the buds show1 all but the center one of each cluster on the leading shoots should be picked off1 as also the small lateral branches4 ,a thrifty bushy plant thus treated will usually have flowers large enough to show the character of the variety1 also numbers enough to make a fine display4 ,after blooming1 the plants are lifted from the border4 ,as to the receptacle into which to put them1 it need not be a flower-pot4 ,a pail or soap-box1 with holes bored for drainage1 will suit the plant just as well1 and by covering the box with cloth or paper the difference will not be noticed4 ,if cuttings are not to be had1 young plants may be bought of the florists and treated in the manner described4 ,buy them in midsummer or earlier4 ,it is best not to attempt to flower the same plant two seasons4 ,after the plant has bloomed1 the top may be cut down1 and the box set in a cellar and kept moderately dry4 ,in ,february or ,march1 bring the plant to the sitting-room window and let the shoots start from the root4 ,these shoots are taken for cuttings to grow plants for the fall bloom4 ,cineraria is a tender greenhouse subject1 but it may be grown as a house-plant1 although the conditions necessary to the best results are difficult to secure outside a glasshouse4 ,the conditions for cinerarias are a cool temperature1 frequent repotting1 and guarding against the attacks of the greenfly4 ,perhaps the last is the most difficult1 and with one having no facilities for fumigating1 it will be almost impossible to prevent the difficulty4 ,a living room usually has too dry air for cinerarias4 ,the seed1 which is very minute1 should be sown in ,august or ,september to have plants in bloom in ,january or ,february4 ,sow the seed on the surface of fine soil and water very lightly to settle the seeds into the soil4 ,a piece of glass or a damp cloth may be spread over the pot or box in which the seeds are sown1 to remain until the seeds are up4 ,always keep the soil damp1 but not wet4 ,when the seedlings are large enough to repot1 they should be potted singly in #b-or #c-;inch pots4 ,before the plants have become pot-bound1 they should again be repotted into larger pots1 until they are in at least #f-;inch pots in which to bloom4 ,in all this time1 they should be grown cool and1 if not possible to fumigate them with tobacco1 the pots should stand on tobacco stems1 which should be moist at all times4 ,the general practice1 in order to have bushy plants1 is to pinch out the center when the flower-buds show1 causing the lateral branches to start1 which they are slow to do if the central stem is allowed to grow4 ,plants bloom but once4 ,clematis4--,one of the best of woody climbing vines1 the common ,c4 ,flammula1 ,virginiana1 paniculata and others being used frequently to cover division walls or fences1 growing year after year without any care and producing quantities of flowers4 ,c4 paniculata is now planted very extensively4 ,the panicles of star-shaped flowers entirely cover the vine and have a pleasant fragrance4 ,it is one of the best of all fall-flowering vines1 and hardy north2 clings well to a chicken-wire trellis4 ,the large-flowered section1 of which ,jackmani is perhaps the best known1 is very popular for pillar or porch climbers4 ,the flowers of this section are large and showy1 running from pure white1 through blue1 to scarlet4 ,of this class1 a serviceable purple is ,jackmani2 white1 ,henryi 7,fig4 #bff72 blue1 ,ramona2 crimson1 ,madame ,e4 ,andr4 ,a deep1 mellow1 fertile soil1 naturally moist1 will suit the requirements of clematis4 ,in dry times apply water freely1 particularly for the large-flowered kinds4 ,also provide trellis or other support as soon as they begin to run4 ,clematis usually blooms on the wood of the season3 therefore prune in winter or early spring1 in order to secure strong new flowering shoots4 ,the large-flowered kinds should be cut back to the ground each year2 some other kinds may be similarly treated unless they are wanted for permanent bowers4 ,the clematis root disease is the depredation of a nematode or eel-worm4 ,it is seldom troublesome in ground that thoroughly freezes1 and this may be the reason why it so often fails when planted against buildings4 ,coleus4--,the commonest 8foliage plant0 in window-gardens4 ,it was used very extensively at one time in ornamental bedding and ribbon borders1 but owing to its being tender has lost in favor1 and its place is largely taken by other plants4 ,coleus is grown with the greatest ease from cuttings or slips4 ,take cuttings only from vigorous and healthy plants4 ,it may also be grown from seed1 although the types have not become fixed1 and a large number of differently marked plants may be had from the same packet4 ,this would not be a drawback in the window-garden1 unless a uniform effect is desired2 in fact1 the best results are often secured from seeds4 ,sow the seed in gentle heat in ,march4 ,grow new plants each year1 and throw the old ones away4 ,crocus 7see ,bulbs74--,crocus is one of the best of spring bulbs1 easily grown and giving good satisfaction either in the border or scattered through the lawn4 ,they are also forced for winter 7see p4 #cde74 ,they are so cheap and lasting that they may be used in quantity4 ,a border of crocuses along the edges of walks1 little clumps of them in the lawn1 or masses in a bed1 give the first touch of color as the spring opens4 ,a sandy soil suits the crocus admirably4 ,plant in the fall1 in the open1 #c to #d inches deep4 ,when they show signs of failing1 take up the bulbs and reset them4 ,they tend to rise out of the ground1 because the new bulb or corm forms on the top of the old one4 ,they run out on lawns in two or three years4 ,if best results are desired1 it is well to renew the bed occasionally by buying new bulbs4 ,crocus beds may be filled later in the season with quick-growing annuals4 ,it is important that only the best flowering bulbs be secured4 ,they may be forced with ease1 planted in pots or shallow boxes1 put away in a cool place and brought into the house at any time through the winter4 ,a low temperature will bring them into bloom in perfection in about four weeks from the time they are brought in4 ,they can be had in the window-garden in this way1 opening in the sunshine4 ,croton4--,under this name many varieties and so-called species of ,codium are grown for conservatory decoration1 and latterly for foliage bedding in the open4 ,the colors and shapes of the leaves are very various and attractive4 ,the crotons make good window-garden subjects1 although they are very liable to the attack of the mealy bug4 ,the plants should be given an abundance of light in order to bring out their fine colors2 but it is usually advisable to screen them from the direct rays of the sun when they are grown under glass4 ,if the red spider or the mealy bug attack them1 they may be syringed with tobacco water4 ,plants that are propagated indoors in winter may be massed in beds out of doors in summer1 where they make very striking effects4 ,give them strong deep soil1 and be sure that they are syringed frequently enough on the underside of the leaves to keep down the red spider4 ,if the plants have been gradually subjected to strong light before they are taken out of doors1 they will stand the full sunlight and will develop their rich colors to perfection4 ,in the fall they may be taken up1 cut back1 and used for window-garden or conservatory subjects4 ,crotons are shrubs or small trees1 and they may be transferred into large pots or tubs and grown into large tree-like specimens4 ,old and scraggly specimens should be thrown away4 ,crotons are propagated readily by cuttings of half-ripened wood any time in winter or spring4 ,cyclamen4--,a tender greenhouse tuberous plant1 sometimes seen in the window-garden4 ,the ,persian cyclamen is best for the house-gardener to grow4 ,cyclamens may be grown from seed sown in ,april or ,september in soil containing a large proportion of sand and leafmold4 ,if sown in ,september1 they should be wintered in a coolhouse4 ,in ,may they should be potted into larger pots and placed in a shaded frame1 and by ,july will have become large enough for their flowering pot1 which should be either #e-;inch or #f-;inch4 ,they should be brought into the house before danger of frost1 and grown cool until through flowering4 ,a temperature of #ee suits them while in flower4 ,after flowering1 they will need a rest for a short time1 but should not become very dry1 or the bulb will be injured4 ,when they start into growth1 they should have the old soil shaken off and be potted into smaller pots4 ,at no time should more than half the tuber be under the soil4 ,april-sown plants should be similarly treated4 ,cyclamens should bloom in about fifteen months from seed4 ,the seed germinates very slowly4 ,tubers large enough to flower the first year may be purchased from the seedsmen at moderate prices2 and unless one has facilities for growing the seedlings for a year1 purchase of the tubers will give the best satisfaction4 ,secure new tubers1 for old ones are not so good4 ,the soil best suited to the cyclamen is one containing two parts leafmold1 one part each of sand and loam4 ,dahlia is an old favorite which1 on account of its formal flowers1 has been in disfavor for a few years1 although it has always held a place in the rural districts4 ,now1 however1 with the advent of the cactus and semi-cactus types 7or loose-flowered forms71 and the improvement of the singles1 it again has taken a front rank among late summer flowers1 coming in just in advance of the chrysanthemum4 ,,xviii4 ,cornflower or bachelor's button4 ,centaurea ,cyanus4 ,,xviii4 ,cornflower or bachelor's button4 ,centaurea ,cyanus4 ,the single varieties may be grown from seed1 but the double sorts should be grown from cuttings of young stems or from division of the roots4 ,if cuttings are to be made1 it will be necessary to start the roots early1 either in a hotbed or house4 ,when the growths have reached #d or #e inches1 they may be cut from the plant and rooted in sand4 ,care should be taken to cut just below a joint1 as a cutting made between two joints will not form tubers4 ,the most rapid method of propagation of named varieties is to grow from cuttings in this way4 ,in growing the plants from roots1 the best plan is to place the whole root in gentle heat1 covering slightly4 ,when the young growth has started1 the roots may be taken up1 divided1 and planted out #c to #d feet apart4 ,this plan will insure a plant from each piece of root1 whereas if the roots are divided while dormant1 there is danger of not having a bud at the end of each piece1 in which case no growth will start2 the roots are sometimes cut into pieces while dormant1 however1 but one should be sure that a piece of old stem with bud is on each piece4 ,one objection to the old dahlia was its lateness of bloom4 ,but by starting the roots early in a frame1 or in boxes that are covered at night1 the plants may be had in flower several weeks earlier than usual4 ,they may be started in ,april1 or at least three weeks in advance of planting time4 ,little water will be required till they start4 ,when they begin shooting up1 the plants should have the full sun1 and air1 on all mild days4 ,they will then make a slow1 sturdy growth4 ,all forcing should be avoided4 ,these plants1 set out when there is no longer danger of frost1 and well watered before completely covering the roots1 will grow right on1 and often begin blooming in ,july4 ,dormant roots may be set out in ,may4 ,the roots1 unless small1 should be divided before planting1 as a single strong root is usually better than a whole clump4 ,the roots of all but the ,dwarf should be set about #c feet apart1 in rows4 ,in poor soils none but the first class will need stakes4 ,the dahlia flourishes best in a deep1 loose1 moist soil2 very good results can be had on sandy soil1 provided plant-food and moisture are furnished4 ,clay should be avoided4 ,if the ground is too strong1 they will probably bloom too late for the northern latitudes4 ,if the plants are to be grown without stakes1 the center of each plant should be pinched out after making two or three joints4 ,by doing this the lateral branches will start near the ground and be stiff enough to withstand the winds4 ,in most home gardens the plants are allowed to reach their full height1 and are tied to stakes if necessary4 ,the tall kinds reach a height of #e to #h ft4 ,dahlias are very susceptible to frost4 ,after the first frost1 lift the roots1 let them dry in the sun1 shake off the dirt1 trim off tops and broken parts1 and store them in a cellar1 as for potatoes4 ,they may be placed in barrels of sand1 if the open cellar is not usable4 ,cannas may be stored in the same place4 ,the tree dahlia 7,d4 excelsa1 but cultivated as ,d4 arborea7 is grown more or less far ,south and in ,california4 ,it has not been much improved4 ,ferns4--,the native ferns transplant easily to the garden1 and they make an attractive addition to the side of a house1 or as an admixture in a hardy border4 ,the ostrich1 cinnamon1 and royal ferns are the best subjects4 ,give all outdoor ferns a place that is protected from winds1 otherwise they will shrivel and perhaps die4 ,screen them from the hot sun1 or give them the shady side of the building4 ,see that the soil is uniformly moist1 and that it does not get too hot4 ,mulch with leafmold in the fall4 ,it is not difficult to colonize many of the native ferns in shady and protected places where trees do not sap all the strength from the ground4 ,probably the one fern grown most extensively as a house-plant is the small-leaved maidenhair fern 7or ,adiantum gracillimum74 ,this and other species are among the finest of house plants1 when sufficient moisture can be given4 ,they make fine specimens as well as serving the purpose of greenery for cut flowers4 ,other species often grown for house plants are ,a4 cuneatum and ,a4 ,capillus-,veneris4 ,all these do well in a mixture of fibrous sod1 loam1 and sand1 with ample drainage material4 ,they may be divided if an increase is wanted4 ,another fern for house culture is ,nephrolepsis exaltata4 ,this is no doubt the most easily grown of the list1 flourishing in a sitting-room4 ,a variety of ,n4 exaltata1 called the ,boston fern1 is a decided addition to this group1 having a drooping habit1 covering the pot and making a fine stand or bracket plant2 and there are now several other forms of it suitable for the best window-gardens4 ,several species of pteris1 especially ,p4 serrulata1 are valuable house ferns but require a warmer place than those mentioned above4 ,they will also thrive better in a shady or ill-lighted corner4 ,perfect drainage and care in watering have more to do with the successful growing of ferns than any special mixture of soils4 ,if the drainage material in the bottom of the pot or box is sufficient1 there is little danger of overwatering2 but water-logged soil is always to be avoided4 ,do not use clay soils4 ,ferns need protection from the direct sunshine1 and also a moist atmosphere4 ,they thrive well in a close glass box1 or window-garden1 if the conditions can be kept equable4 ,freesia4--,one of the best and most easily handled tender winter-flowering bulbs2 height #ab or #ae inches4 ,the white form 7,freesia refracta alba7 is the best4 ,the white or yellowish bell-shaped flowers of freesia are produced on slender stalks just above the foliage1 to the number of six to eight in a cluster4 ,they are very fragrant1 and last for a considerable time when picked4 ,the bulbs are small1 and look as though they could not produce a growth of foliage and flowers1 but even the smallest mature bulb will prove satisfactory4 ,several bulbs should be planted together in a pot1 box1 or pan1 in ,october1 if wanted for the holidays1 or later if wanted at ,easter4 ,the plants bloom from ten to twelve weeks from planting1 under ordinary care4 ,no special treatment is required2 keep the plants cool and moist through the growing season4 ,the soil should contain a little sand mixed with fibrous loam1 and the pot should be well drained4 ,after flowering1 gradually withhold water and the tops will die down1 after which the roots may be shaken out and rested until time to plant in fall4 ,care should be taken to keep them perfectly dry4 ,the bulbs increase rapidly from offsets4 ,plants may also be grown from seed1 which should be sown as soon as ripe1 giving blooming plants the second or third year4 ,fuchsia4--,well-known window or greenhouse shrub1 treated as an herbaceous subject2 many interesting forms2 late winter1 spring and summer4 ,fuchsia is readily grown from cuttings4 ,soft green wood should be used for cuttings1 and it will root in about three weeks1 when the cuttings should be potted4 ,take care not to have them pot-bound while in growth1 but do not overpot when bloom is wanted4 ,given warmth and good soil1 they will make fine plants in three months or less4 ,in well-protected1 partially shady places they may be planted out1 growing into miniature bushes by fall4 ,plants may be kept on from year to year2 and if the branches are well cut back after blooming1 abundant new bloom will come4 ,but it is usually best to make new plants each year from cuttings1 since young plants commonly bloom most profusely and demand less care4 ,fuchsias are amongst the best of window subjects4 ,geranium4--,what are commonly known as geraniums are1 strictly speaking1 pelargoniums4 7,see ,pelargonium47 ,the true geraniums are mostly hardy perennials1 and therefore should not be confounded with the tender pelargoniums4 ,geraniums are worthy a place in a border4 ,they may be transplanted early in the spring1 setting them #b ft4 apart4 ,height #aj to #ab in4 ,the common wild cranesbill 7,geranium maculatum7 improves under cultivation1 and is an attractive plant when it stands in front of taller foliage4 ,gladiolus4--,of summer and fall-blooming bulbous plants1 gladiolus is probably the most widely popular4 ,the colors range from scarlet and purple1 to white1 rose1 and pure yellow4 ,the plants are of slender1 erect habit1 growing from #b to #c feet high4 ,gladioli dislike a heavy clay soil4 ,a light loam or sandy soil suits them best4 ,no fresh manure should be added to the soil the year in which they are grown4 ,they should have a new place every year1 if possible1 and always an open sunny situation4 ,the corms may be covered #b inches deep in heavy soils1 and #d to #f in light soils4 ,they may stand #h to #aj inches apart1 or half this distance for mass effects4 ,for a succession1 they may be planted at short intervals1 the earliest planting being of smaller corms in the early spring as soon as the soil is dry enough to work2 later the larger are to be planted--the last setting being not later than the ,fourth of ,july4 ,this last planting will afford fine late flowers4 ,the plants should be supported by inconspicuous stakes4 ,the successive plantings may be in the same bed among those set earlier1 or they may be grouped in unoccupied nooks1 or portions of the border4 ,the plants may stand as close as #f inches from each other4 ,the earlier planting may be a foot apart to admit of later settings between4 ,late in the fall1 after frosts and before freezing1 the corms are to be dug1 cleaned1 and dried in the sun and air for a few hours and then stored away in boxes about #b-a_/b inches deep in a cool1 dark1 and dry place4 ,the tops should be left on1 at least till completely shriveled4 ,the varieties are perpetuated and multiplied by the little corms that appear about the base of the large new corm which is formed each year4 ,these small corms may be taken off in the spring and sown thickly in drills4 ,many of them will make flowering plants by the second season4 ,they are treated like the large corms1 in the fall4 ,gladioli are easily grown from seed also1 but this method cannot be depended on to perpetuate desirable varieties1 which can be reproduced only by the cormels4 ,some of the best flowers may be cross-pollinated1 or allowed to form seed in the usual manner2 the seed sown thickly in drills1 and shaded till the plantlets appear1 then carefully cultivated1 will afford a crop of small corms in the fall4 ,these may be stored for the winter1 like the other young corms1 and1 like them1 many will flower the second season1 affording a great variety and quite likely some new and striking kinds4 ,those that do not flower should be reserved for further trial4 ,they often prove finer than those first to flower4 ,early-flowering varieties of gladioli may be forced for late winter or spring bloom4 ,for bouquets1 cut the spike when the lower flowers open2 keep in fresh water1 cut off the end of the stem frequently1 and the other flowers will expand4 ,gloxinia4--,choice greenhouse tuberous-rooted1 spring and summer-blooming perennials1 sometimes seen in window-gardens1 but really not adapted to them1 although some skillful house-gardeners grow them successfully4 ,gloxinias must have a uniform moist and warm atmosphere and protection from the sun4 ,they will not stand abuse or varying conditions4 ,propagated often by leaf-cuttings1 which should give flowering plants in one year4 ,from the leaf1 inserted half its length in the soil 7or sometimes only the petiole inserted7 a tuber arises4 ,this tuber1 after resting until midwinter or later1 is planted1 and flowering plants soon arise4 ,gloxinias also grow readily from seeds1 which may be germinated in a temperature of about #gj4 ,flowering plants may be had in ,august if seeds are sown in late winter1 say in early ,february4 ,this is the usual method4 ,after the bloom is past1 the tuber is partially dried off and kept dormant till the following season4 ,it will usually show signs of activity in ,february or ,march1 when it may be shaken out of the old earth and a little water may then be applied and the amount increased till the plant is in bloom4 ,the same tubers may be bloomed several times4 ,success in the growing of gloxinias is largely a matter of proper watering4 ,keep the dormant tuber just dry enough to prevent shriveling1 never trying to force it ahead of its time4 ,avoid wetting the leaves4 ,protect from direct sunlight4 ,protect from draughts on the plants4 ,grevillea4--,the 8she oak10 very graceful greenhouse plant1 suitable also for house culture4 ,the plants grow freely from seed1 and until they become too large are as decorative as ferns4 ,grevilleas are really trees1 and are valuable in greenhouses and rooms only in their young state4 ,they withstand much abuse4 ,they are now very popular as jardinire subjects4 ,seeds sown in spring will give handsome plants by the next winter4 ,discard the plants as soon as they become ragged4 ,hollyhocks4--,these old garden favorites have been neglected of late years1 primarily because the hollyhock rust has been so prevalent1 destroying the plants or making them unsightly4 ,their culture is very simple4 ,the seed is usually sown in ,july or ,august1 and the plants set where wanted the following spring4 ,they will bloom the same year in which they are transplanted--the year following the seed-sowing4 ,new plants should be set every two years1 as the old crowns are likely to rot or die after the first flowering1 or at least to become weak4 ,hyacinths 7see ,bulbs7 are popular spring-flowering bulbs4 ,hyacinths are hardy1 but they are often used as window or greenhouse plants4 ,they are easy to grow and very satisfactory 7,fig4 #bfb74 ,for winter flowering1 the bulbs should be procured early in the fall1 potted in ,october in soil composed of loam1 leafmold1 and sand4 ,if ordinary flower-pots are used1 put in the bottom a few pieces of broken pots1 charcoal1 or small stones for drainage2 then fill the pot with dirt1 so that when the bulb is planted1 the top will be on a level with the rim of the pot4 ,fill in around the bulb with soil1 leaving just the tip showing4 ,these pots of bulbs should be placed in a cold pit1 cellar or on the shady side of a building4 ,in all cases1 plunge the pot in some cool material 7as cinders74 ,before the weather becomes cold enough to freeze a crust on the ground1 the pots should have a protection of straw or leaves to keep the bulbs from severe freezing4 ,in about six to eight weeks the bulbs should have made roots enough to grow the plant1 and the pots may be placed in a cool room for a short time4 ,when the plants have started into growth1 they may be placed in a warmer situation4 ,watering should be carefully attended to from this time1 and when the plant is in bloom1 the pot may be set in a saucer or other shallow dish containing water4 ,after flowering1 the bulbs may be ripened by gradually withholding water until the leaves die4 ,they may then be planted out in the border1 where they will bloom each spring for a number of years1 but will never prove satisfactory for forcing again4 ,the open-ground culture of hyacinths is the same as for tulips and other ,holland bulbs4 ,the hyacinth is the most popular of the ,dutch bulbs for growing in vases of water4 ,the narcissus may be grown in water1 and do just as well1 but it is not as attractive in glasses as the hyacinth4 ,glasses for hyacinths may be had of florists who deal in supplies1 and in various shapes and colors4 ,the usual form is tall and narrow1 with a cup-like mouth to receive the bulb4 ,they are filled with water1 so that it will just reach the base of the bulb when placed in position in the cup or shoulder above4 ,the vessels of dark-colored glass are preferable to those of clear glass1 as roots prefer darkness4 ,when the glasses have been filled1 they are set away in a cool1 dark place1 where roots will form1 as in potted bulbs4 ,results are usually secured earlier in water than in soil4 ,to keep the water sweet1 a few lumps of charcoal may be put in the glass4 ,as the water evaporates1 add fresh2 add enough so that it runs over1 and thereby renews that in the glass4 ,do not disturb the roots by taking out the bulb4 ,iris includes many handsome perennials1 of which the blue flag is familiar to every old-fashioned garden4 ,they are favorites everywhere1 for their brilliant spring and summer bloom2 and they are easy to grow4 ,most irises thrive best in a rather moist soil1 and some of them may be colonized in the water in margins of ponds4 ,gardeners usually divide them into two sections--the tuberous-rooted or rhizomatous1 and the bulbous4 ,a third division--the fibrous-rooted--is sometimes made4 ,the common and most serviceable species belong to the tuberous-rooted section4 ,here is the beautiful and varied ,japanese iris1 ,iris lvigata 7or ,i4 ,kmpferi71 which is among the most deserving of all hardy perennials4 ,most of these irises need no special care4 ,they are propagated by division of the rootstocks4 ,plant the pieces one foot apart if a mass effect is desired4 ,when the plants begin to fail1 dig them up1 divide the roots1 discard the old parts1 and grow a new stock1 as before4 ,the ,japanese iris needs much water and a very rich soil4 ,readily grown from seeds1 giving bloom the second year4 ,i ,susiana1 of this section1 is one of the oddest of irises1 but it is not quite hardy in the ,north4 ,of the bulbous section1 most species are not hardy far ,north4 ,the bulbs should be taken up and replanted every two or three years4 ,the ,persian and ,spanish irises belong here4 ,the bulbs give rise to but a single stem4 ,lily4--,under this name are included bulbous plants of many kinds1 not all of them being true lilies4 ,it has been said of this family of plants that it has no 8poor relations10 each of them being perfect in itself4 ,many of the choicest kinds are comparatively unknown1 although easy to cultivate4 ,in fact1 all of the lilies may be grown with comparative ease in regions where the given species are hardy4 ,a light1 fertile1 well-drained soil1 mellow to the depth of at least one foot1 a handful of sand under each bulb if the soil is inclined to be stiff1 and planting so that the crown of the bulb will be at least #d inches below the surface1 are the general requirements4 ,one exception to the depth of planting is ,lilium auratum1 or golden-banded lily4 ,this should be planted deeper--from #h to #ab inches below the surface--as the new bulbs form over the old one and soon bring the bulbs to the surface if they are not planted deep4 ,deep working of the ground is always desirable2 #ah inches1 or even #b feet1 will be none too deep4 ,l4 candidum and ,l4 testaceum should be planted in ,august or ,september1 if possible2 but usually lilies are planted in ,october and ,november4 ,for all lilies it is safer to provide good winter protection in the form of a mulch of leaves or manure1 and extending beyond the borders of the planting4 ,this should be #e inches to a foot deep1 according to the latitude or locality4 ,while most lilies profit by partial shade 7except ,l4 candidum71 they should never be planted near or under trees4 ,the shade or protection of tall-growing herbaceous plants is sufficient4 ,in fact1 the best results1 both as to growth and effect1 may be secured by planting amongst low shrubbery or border plants4 ,most kinds are the better for remaining undisturbed for a number of years2 but if they are to be taken up and divided1 or moved to other quarters1 they should not be allowed to become dry4 ,the small bulbs1 or offsets1 may be planted in the border1 and if protected1 will grow to flowering size in two or three years4 ,in taking up bulbs for division it is best to do so soon after the tops die after blooming4 ,at least this should be done early in the fall1 not later than ,october1 giving the plants a chance to become established before freezing weather4 ,as pot-plants some kinds of lilies are very satisfactory1 especially those that may be forced into bloom through the winter4 ,the best kinds for this purpose are ,l4 ,harrisii 7,easter lily71 ,l4 longiflorum1 and ,l4 candidum4 ,others may be forced with success1 but these are the ones most generally used4 ,the winter culture for forcing is practically the same as for hyacinths in pots4 ,some of the best kinds of lilies are mentioned below3-- ,l4 candidum 7,annunciation lily74 ,white2 #c to #d feet high2 it makes an autumn growth1 and should1 therefore1 be planted in ,august2 set the bulbs from #d to #f inches deep4 ,l4 speciosum 7,l4 lancifolium71 var4 prcox4 ,white1 tinged with pink2 bears several flowers on a stem about #c feet high4 ,l4 speciosum1 var4 rubrum4 ,rose color1 spotted with red4 ,l4 ,brownii4 ,flowers white inside1 chocolate-colored outside2 the stems grow about #c feet high1 bearing from #b to #d tubular flowers2 not difficult to manage with good protection and drainage2 the bulbs are impatient of being kept long out of the ground2 after planting1 they should not be disturbed as long as they flower well4 ,l4 maculatum 7,l4 ,hansoni74 ,dark yellow2 stems #c-d feet high1 each producing #f to #ab flowers4 ,l4 testaceum 7,l4 excelsum1 ,l4 ,isabellinum74 ,rich buff color1 with delicate spots2 plants about #c to #e feet high1 with #c to a dozen flowers on a stem2 plant the bulbs in ,september4 ,l4 longiflorum4 ,white2 large tubular flowers1 #b to #h on a stem2 height1 about #b-a_/b feet4 ,l4 ,batemanniae 7a form of ,l4 elegans74 ,apricot yellow2 #f to #ab flowers on stems #c to #d feet high4 ,l4 auratum 7,japanese gold-banded lily74 ,immense white flowers banded with yellow and dotted with red or purple1 from #c to #ab on a stem2 height1 #c to #d feet2 the bulbs need thorough protection1 good drainage1 and should be planted #aj or #ab inches deep 7,fig4 #beh74 ,l4 tigrinum 7,tiger lily74 ,an old favorite1 with many drooping bright red spotted flowers2 var4 splendens is specially good2 #c to #e ft4 ,l4 tenuifolium4 ,rich scarlet flowers nodding in a raceme or panicle2 #a-a_/b to #b ft4 ,l4 ,maximowiczii 7,l4 ,leichtlinii74 ,flowers clear yellow1 with small1 dark spots1 #aj to #ab on a stem2 height1 #d feet4 ,l4 monadelphum4 ,yellow tubular-shaped flowers in clusters of #f to a dozen or more2 stems #b-a_/b feet tall4 ,l4 elegans 7,l4 ,thunbergianum71 var4 ,alice ,wilson4 ,lemon-yellow2 stems #b feet high1 bearing #b to #h flowers4 ,l4 elegans1 var4 fulgens atrosanguineum4 ,dark crimson2 height1 #a foot4 ,lily-of-the-valley4--,a perfectly hardy little perennial1 bearing racemes of small1 white1 bell-shaped flowers in early spring2 and also much forced by florists4 ,for ordinary cultivation1 sods or mats of roots may be dug from any place in which the plant is colonized4 ,usually it thrives best in partial shade2 and the leaves make an attractive mat on the north side of a building1 or other shady place1 in which grass will not grow4 ,the plants will take care of themselves year after year4 ,better results may be expected from good commercial roots4 ,the 8pips0 may be planted any time from ,november on1 from #c to #f inches apart4 ,for forcing indoors1 imported roots or 8pips0 are used1 as the plants are grown for this particular purpose in parts of ,europe4 ,these roots may be planted in pots1 and treated as recommended for winter-flowering bulbs4 ,florists force them in greater heat1 however1 often giving them a bottom heat of #hj or #ij2 but skill and experience are required in order to attain uniformly good results in this case4 ,mignonette4--,probably no flower is more generally grown for its fragrance than the mignonette4 ,it is a half-hardy annual1 thriving either in the open or under glass4 ,the mignonette needs a cool soil1 only moderately rich1 shade part of the day1 and careful attention to cutting the flower-stalks before the seeds are ripe4 ,if a sowing be made in late ,april1 followed by a second sowing in early ,july1 the season may be extended until severe frosts4 ,there are few flowers that will prove as disappointing if the simple treatment it needs is omitted4 ,height1 #a to #b feet4 ,it may be sown in pots late in summer and be had in the house in winter4 ,moon-flowers are species of the morning-glory family that open their flowers at night4 ,a well-grown plant trained over a porch trellis1 or allowed to grow at random over a low tree or shrub1 is a striking object when in full flower at dusk or through a moonlit evening4 ,in the ,southern states 7where it is much grown7 the moon-flower is a perennial1 but even when well protected does not survive the winters in the ,north4 ,cuttings usually give best results in the ,northern states1 as the seasons are not long enough for seed plants to give good bloom4 ,cuttings may be made before danger of frost and wintered in the house1 or the plants may be grown from seed sown in ,january or ,february4 ,seeds should be scalded or filed just before sowing4 ,the true moon-flower is ,ipoma ,bona-,nox white-flowered2 but there are other kinds that go under this name4 ,this grows #bj to #cj feet where the seasons are long enough4 ,narcissus 7see ,bulbs74--,daffodils1 jonquils1 and the poet's narcissus all belong to this group1 and many of them are perfectly hardy4 ,the polyanthus section1 which includes the ,paper-white narcissus and sacred lily or ,chinese joss-flower1 are not hardy except with unusually good protection1 and are1 therefore1 most suitable for growing indoors4 ,it is common to allow the hardy sorts to take care of themselves when once planted4 ,this they will do1 but much more satisfactory results will be had by lifting and dividing the clumps every three or four years4 ,a single bulb in a few years forms a large clump4 ,in this condition the bulbs are not properly nourished1 and consequently do not flower well4 ,lifting is preferably done in ,august or ,september1 when the foliage has died down and the bulbs are ripe4 ,the narcissi are well suited to partially shaded places1 and will grow and please wherever good taste may place them4 ,they should be freely used1 as they are fragrant1 bright of color1 and easily managed--growing among shrubbery1 trees1 and in places where other flowers would refuse to grow4 ,they should be planted in clumps or masses1 in ,september or ,october1 setting the bulbs #e to #h inches apart1 according to size1 and #c or #d inches deep4 ,several species and numberless varieties1 both double and single1 are grown4 ,a few good types only can be mentioned 7,fig4 #bfj73-- ,daffodils1 or ,trumpet narcissus 7,narcissus ,pseudo-,narcissus and derivatives74 ,single-flowered1 ,yellow4--,golden ,spur1 ,trumpet ,major1 ,van ,sion4 ,white4--,albicans4 ,white and ,yellow4--,empress1 ,horsefieldi4 ,double-flowering1 ,yellow4--,incomparable fl4 pl41 ,van ,sion4 ,white4--,alba plena odorata4 ,poet's narcissus 7,n4 poeticus74 ,flowers white1 with yellow cups edged crimson4 ,very fragrant4 ,jonquils 7,n4 ,jonquilla74 ,these have very fragrant yellow flowers1 both double and single1 and are old garden favorites4 ,polyanthus narcissus 7,n4 ,tazetta74 ,these include paper-white1 ,chinese sacred lily 7var4 orientalis71 and others4 ,primrose ,peerless 7,n4 biflorus74 ,narcissi may be forced into flower through the winter1 as described on p4 #cde4 ,a popular kind for winter bloom is the so-called ,chinese sacred lily4 ,this grows in water without any soil whatever4 ,secure a bowl or glass dish1 about three times the size of the bulb2 put some pretty stones in the bottom2 set in the bulb and build up around it with stones so as to hold it stiff when the leaves have grown2 tuck two or three small pieces of charcoal among the stones to keep the water sweet1 then fill up the dish with water and add a little every few days1 as it evaporates4 ,set the dish in a warm1 light place4 ,in about six weeks the fragrant1 fine white flowers will fill the room with perfume4 ,the ,paper-white1 closely allied to this1 is also forced1 and is one of the few good bulbs that may be bloomed before ,christmas4 ,the ,van ,sions1 single and double 7a form of daffodil71 are also much forced4 ,oleander4--,an old favorite shrub for the window-garden1 and much planted in the open far ,south4 ,while there are many named varieties of the oleander1 but two are often seen in general cultivation4 ,these are the common red and white varieties4 ,both these1 as well as the named varieties1 are of easy management and well adapted to home culture1 growing in pots or tubs for several years without special care4 ,well-grown specimens are very effective as porch or lawn plants1 or may be used to good advantage in mixed beds of tall-growing plants1 plunging the pot or tub to the rim in the soil4 ,the plants should be cut back after flowering4 ,they should be rested in any out-of-the-way place through the winter4 ,when brought out in the spring1 they should be given sun and air in order to make a sturdy growth4 ,propagation is effected by using well-ripened wood for cuttings1 placed in a close frame2 or the slips may be rooted in a bottle or can of water1 care being taken to supply water as evaporation takes place4 ,after being rooted1 they may be potted1 using soil with a large proportion of sand4 ,well-established plants may be repotted in good loam and well-rotted manure4 ,they should bloom the second year4 ,oxalis4--,a number of hardy species of oxalis are excellent plants for rock-work and edging4 ,the greenhouse species are very showy1 growing without extra care1 and blooming freely through the late winter and spring months and some of them make excellent window-gardening subjects4 ,the house species are mostly increased by bulbs1 a few by division of the root4 ,o4 violacea is1 one of the commonest of house-plants4 ,give a sunny window1 for the flowers open only in sun or very bright light4 ,the bulbous 7tuberous7 kinds are treated much as recommended for ,bulbs1 except that the bulbs must not freeze4 ,the tubers are started in ,august or ,september for winter bloom4 ,it is best to use deep pots1 or the tubers will throw themselves out4 ,the crown should be near the surface4 ,after flowering1 the bulbs are dried off and kept until new bloom is wanted4 ,the 8,bermuda buttercup0 is ,o4 lutea and ,o4 flava of gardens 7properly ,o4 cernua72 it is a ,cape of ,good ,hope species4 ,its culture is not peculiar4 ,palms4--,no more graceful plants for room decoration can be found than well-grown specimens of some species of palms4 ,most florists' palms are well adapted for this purpose when small1 and as the growth is usually very slow1 a plant may be used for many years4 ,palm plants thrive best in partial shade4 ,one of the frequent causes of failure in the culture of the palm is the overpotting and subsequent overwatering4 ,a palm should not be repotted until the mass of roots fills the soil and preferably when it is active2 then a pot only a size larger should be used4 ,use ample drainage in the bottom to carry off excess of water4 ,although the plants need a moist soil1 water standing at the roots proves injurious4 ,withhold free use of water when the plants are partially dormant4 ,a soil composed of well-rotted sod1 leafmold1 and a little sand will meet the requirements4 ,under ordinary living-room conditions1 palms are subject to much abuse4 ,water is allowed to stand in the jardinire1 the plant is kept in dark corners and hallways1 the air is dry1 and scale is allowed to infest the leaves4 ,if the plant begins to fail1 the housewife is likely to repot it or to give it more water1 both of which may be wrong4 ,the addition of bone-meal or other fertilizer may be better than repotting4 ,keep the plant in good light 7but not in direct sunlight7 as much as possible4 ,sponge the leaves to remove dust and scale1 using soapsuds4 ,when a new leaf begins to appear1 add bone-meal to make it grow vigorously4 ,among the best palms for house culture are arecas1 ,cocos ,weddelliana1 latania1 kentia1 howea1 caryota1 chamrops1 and phnix4 ,cycas may also be regarded as a palm4 ,the date palm may be grown from seed of the common commercial date4 ,seed of the other varieties may be purchased from leading seedsmen2 but1 as the seed germinates only under favorable conditions1 and the palm is a very slow-growing plant while young1 the best plan is to purchase the plants from a dealer when wanted4 ,when the plants become weak or diseased1 take them to a florist for treatment and recuperation1 or purchase new ones4 ,sometimes the florist places two or three small palms in one pot1 making a very satisfactory table piece for two or three years4 ,it is well to set the palms out of doors in the summer1 plunging the pots nearly or quite to the rim4 ,turn or lift the pots occasionally so that the roots will not strike through into the earth4 ,choose a partially shaded place1 where the hot sun will not strike them directly and where the wind will not injure them4 ,pandanus1 or screw pine4--,the screw pines are stiff-leaved saw-edged plants often grown in window-gardens and used for porch decoration4 ,the ,pandanus utilis and ,p4 ,veitchii 7the latter striped-leaved or white-leaved7 are exceedingly ornamental1 and are well adapted to house culture4 ,the singular habit of growth1 bright glossy leaves1 and the ability to withstand the dust and shade of a dwelling room1 make them a desirable addition to the house collection4 ,they are propagated by the offsets or young plants that grow around the base of the trunk2 or they may be increased by seed4 ,if by the former method1 the offsets should be cut off and set in sand1 at a temperature of #fe or #gj4 ,the cuttings root slowly and the plants for a time make very slow growth4 ,the general cultural treatment is that of palms4 ,give abundance of water in summer4 ,pansy 7,fig4 #bdd7 is without doubt the most popular hardy spring flower in cultivation4 ,the strains of seed are many1 each containing great possibilities4 ,the culture is simple and the results are sure4 ,seed sown in ,august or ,september1 in boxes or a frame1 will make plants large enough to reset in ,november 7three or four inches apart7 and bloom the following ,march2 or they may be left until ,march in open seed-beds before setting out4 ,also1 if they are sown very thinly in the frames1 they may remain undisturbed through the winter1 blooming very early the following spring4 ,the frames should be protected by mats1 boards1 or other covering through the severe cold1 and as the sun gains strength1 care should be taken to keep them from heaving by alternate thawing and freezing4 ,seed sown in boxes in ,january or ,february will make fine blooming plants by ,april1 taking the place of those blooming earlier4 ,the pansy is generally mentioned with plants suitable for partial shade1 but it also thrives in other localities1 especially where the sun is not very hot nor the weather very dry4 ,the requisites for satisfactory pansy culture are fertile1 moist1 cool soil1 protection from the noonday sun1 and attention to keeping plants from going to seed4 ,as the ground becomes warm1 a mulch of leafmold or other light material should be spread over the bed to retain moisture and exclude heat4 ,spring and fall give the best bloom4 ,in hot summer weather the flowers become small4 ,pelargonium4--,to this genus belong the plants known as geraniums--the most satisfactory of house-plants1 and extensively used as bedding plants4 ,no plants will give better returns in leaf and flower2 and these features1 added to the ease of propagation1 make them general favorites4 ,the common geranium is one of the few plants that can be bloomed at any time of the year4 ,there are several main groups of pelargoniums1 as the common 8fish geraniums0 7from the odor of the foliage71 the 8show0 or ,lady ,washington pelargoniums1 the ivy geraniums1 the thin-leaved bedders 7as ,madame ,salleroi71 and the 8rose0 geraniums4 ,cuttings of partially ripened wood of all pelargoniums root very easily1 grow to blooming size in a short time1 and1 either planted out or grown in a pot1 make fine decorations4 ,the common or fish geraniums are much more satisfactory when not more than a year old4 ,take cuttings from the old plants at least once a year4 ,in four or five months the young plants begin to bloom4 ,plants may be taken up from the garden and potted1 but they rarely give as much satisfaction as young1 vigorous subjects2 new plants should be grown every year4 ,repot frequently until they are in #d-to #e-;inch pots2 then let them bloom4 ,the show pelargoniums have but one period of bloom1 usually in ,april1 but they make up in size and coloring4 ,this section is more difficult to manage as house-plants than the common geranium1 needing more direct light to keep it stocky1 and being troubled by insects4 ,still1 all the trouble taken to grow the plants will be well repaid by the handsome blossoms4 ,take cuttings in late spring1 after flowering1 and blooming plants may be had the following year4 ,good results are sometimes secured by keeping these plants two or three years4 ,cut back after each blooming season4 ,for house culture the geraniums need a fertile1 fibrous loam1 with the addition of a little sand2 good drainage is also an essential4 ,peony4--,the herbaceous peony has long had a place in the garden2 it has now been much improved and constitutes one of the very best plants known to cultivation4 ,it is perfectly hardy1 and free from the many diseases and insects that attack so many plants4 ,it continues to bloom year after year without renewal1 if the soil is well prepared and fertile4 ,fig4 #bej4 ,inasmuch as the peony is such a strong grower and produces so many enormous flowers1 it must have a soil that can supply abundant plant-food and moisture4 ,the old-fashioned single and semi-double comparatively small-flowered kinds will give good results in any ordinary ground1 but the newer highly improved sorts must be given better treatment4 ,this is one of the plants that profit by a very rich soil4 ,the place should be very deeply plowed or else trenched2 and if the land is in sod or is not in good heart1 the preparation should begin the season before the peonies are planted4 ,a deep moist loam suits them best2 and as the plants grow and bloom1 add bone meal and top-dress with manure4 ,when making their growth and when in bloom1 they should not be allowed to want for water4 ,in purchasing peony roots1 be careful to secure only well-grown and selected stock4 ,cheap stock1 job lots1 and odds and ends are likely to be very disappointing4 ,the plants may be set in fall or spring1 the latter being preferable in the ,north4 ,cover the crown bud #b or #c inches1 being careful not to injure it4 ,if the best blooms are desired1 give plenty of room1 as much as #c x #d feet4 ,peonies grow #b to #c feet or even more in height4 ,strong roots of some varieties will give bloom the first year2 considerable bloom will come the second year2 but the full bloom on most varieties should not be expected before the third year4 ,the flowers may be brightened and their duration prolonged by partial shade while in bloom4 ,if old plants become weak1 or if they drop their buds1 dig them up and see whether the roots are not more or less dead and decayed2 divide to fresh parts and replant in well-enriched ground2 or purchase new plants4 ,peonies are propagated by division of the roots in early fall1 one good strong eye being left to each piece4 ,the peony has merit for its foliage as well as for its bloom1 particularly when the soil is rich and the growth luxuriant4 ,this value of the plant is commonly overlooked4 ,the peony deserves its popularity4 ,phlox4--,garden phloxes are of two kinds1 the annual and perennial4 ,both are most valuable4 ,excepting the petunia1 no plant will give the profusion of bloom with as little care as the annual phlox 7,phlox ,drummondii74 ,for clear and brilliant colors1 the many varieties of this are certainly unrivaled4 ,the dwarf kinds are the more desirable for ribbon-beds1 as they are not so 8leggy40 ,there are whites1 pinks1 reds1 and variegated of the most dazzling brilliancy4 ,the dwarfs grow ten inches high1 and bloom continuously4 ,set them #h inches apart in good soil4 ,seed may be sown in the open ground in ,may1 or for early plants1 in the hotbed in ,march4 ,they may be sown close in the fall if sown very late1 so that the seeds will not start till spring4 ,the perennial phlox of the gardens has been developed from the native species1 ,phlox paniculata and ,p4 maculata4 ,the garden forms are often collectively known under the name of ,p4 decussata4 ,in recent years the perennial phlox has been much improved1 and it now constitutes one of the best of all flower-garden subjects4 ,it grows three feet tall1 and bears a profusion of fine flowers in heavy trusses in mid-summer to fall4 ,figs4 #bdf1 #bdh4 ,perennial phlox is of easy culture4 ,the important point is that the plants begin to fail of best bloom about the third year1 and they are likely to become diseased2 and new plantings should be made if the strongest flowers are desired4 ,the plants may be taken up in fall1 the roots divided and cleaned of dead and weak parts1 and the pieces replanted4 ,usually1 however1 the beginner will secure more satisfaction in purchasing new cutting-grown plants4 ,this phlox propagates readily by seed1 and if one does not care to perpetuate the particular variety1 he will find much satisfaction in raising seedlings4 ,some varieties 8come true0 from seed with fair regularity4 ,seedlings should bloom the second year4 ,fertile garden soil of any kind should raise good perennial phlox4 ,see that the plants do not want for water or plant-food at blooming time4 ,liquid manure will often help to keep them going4 ,if they are likely to suffer for water when in bloom1 wet the ground well every evening4 ,if the leading shoots are pinched off early in the season1 and again in midsummer1 the bloom will be later1 perhaps in ,september rather than in ,july4 ,primulas1 or primroses1 are of various kinds1 some being border plants1 but mostly known in this country as greenhouse and window-garden subjects4 ,one of them is the auricula4 ,the true or ,english cowslip is one of the hardy border plants2 also the plants commonly known as polyanthus4 ,common hardy primulas 7or polyanthus and related forms7 grow #f to #aj inches high1 sending up trusses of yellow and red flowers in early spring4 ,propagated by division1 or by seed sown a year before the plants are wanted4 ,give them rather moist soil4 ,the primula of the winter-garden is mostly the ,p4 ,sinensis 7,chinese ,primrose71 grown very extensively by florists as a ,christmas plant4 ,with the exception of the full double varieties1 it is usually grown from seed4 ,there is a popular single form known as ,p4 stellata4 ,the seed of ,chinese primulas sown in ,march or ,april will make large flowering plants by ,november or ,december1 if the young plants are shifted to larger pots as needed4 ,the seed should be sown on the flat surface of the soil1 composed of equal parts loam1 leafmold1 and sand4 ,the seed should be pressed down lightly and the soil watered carefully to prevent the seed from being washed into the soil4 ,very fine sphagnum moss may be sifted over the seed1 or the box set in a moist place1 where the soil will remain wet until the seeds germinate4 ,when the plants are large enough1 they should be potted separately or pricked out into shallow boxes4 ,frequent pottings or transplantings should be given until ,september1 when they should be in the pots in which they are to bloom4 ,the two essentials to successful growth through the hot summer are shade and moisture4 ,height1 #f to #h inches4 ,bloom in winter and spring4 ,at present the 8baby ,primrose0 7,primula ,forbesi7 is popular4 ,it is treated in essentially the same way as the ,sinensis4 ,the obconica 7,p4 obconica7 in several forms is a popular florist's plant1 but is not much used in window-gardens4 ,the hairs poison the hands of some persons4 ,culture practically as for ,p4 ,sinensis4 ,all primulas are impatient of a dry atmosphere and fluctuating conditions4 ,rhododendrons are broad-leaved evergreen shrubs that are admirably adapted to producing strong planting effects4 ,some of them are hardy in the ,northern states4 ,rhododendrons require a fibrous or peaty soil and protection from bleak winds and bright suns in summer and winter4 ,a northern or somewhat shady exposure1 to break the force of the midday sun1 is advisable2 but they should not be planted where large trees will sap the fertility and moisture from the ground4 ,they protect each other if grown in masses1 and also produce better planting effects4 ,,xix4 ,pyracantha in fruit4 ,one of the best ornamental-fruited plants for the middle and milder latitudes4 ,,xix4 ,pyracantha in fruit4 ,one of the best ornamental-fruited plants for the middle and milder latitudes4 ,they require a deep1 fibrous earth1 and it is supposed that they do not thrive in limestone soils or where wood ashes are freely used4 ,while rhododendrons will sometimes succeed without any special preparation of the ground1 it is advisable to take particular pains in this regard4 ,it is well to dig a hole #b or #c feet deep1 and fill it with earth compounded of leafmold1 well-rotted sod1 and peat4 ,the moisture supply should be never failing1 for they suffer from drought4 ,they should be mulched summer and winter4 ,plant in spring4 ,the hardy garden forms are derivatives of ,rhododendron ,catawbiense1 of the southern ,appalachian ,mountains4 ,the ,pontica and other forms are not hardy in the ,north4 ,the 8great laurel0 of the northern ,united ,states is ,rhododendron maximum4 ,this has been extensively colonized in large grounds by being removed from the wild in carload lots4 ,when the native conditions are imitated1 it makes unusually good mass planting4 ,like all rhododendrons it is impatient of drought1 hard soil1 and full exposure to midday sun4 ,this species is valued for its foliage and habit more than for its bloom4 ,the wild form of ,r4 ,catawbiense is also transferred to grounds in large quantities4 ,rose4--,no home property is complete without roses4 ,there are so many kinds and classes that varieties may be found for almost any purpose1 from climbing or pillar subjects to highly fragrant teas1 great hybrid perpetuals1 free-blooming bedders1 and good foliage subjects for the shrubbery4 ,there is no flower in the growing of which one so quickly develops the temper and taste of the connoisseur4 ,roses are essentially flower-garden subjects rather than lawn subjects1 since flowers are their chief beauty4 ,yet the foliage of many of the highly developed roses is good and attractive when the plants are well grown4 ,to secure the best results with roses1 they should be placed in a bed by themselves1 where they can be tilled and pruned and well taken care of1 as other flower-garden plants are4 ,the ordinary garden roses should rarely be grown in mixed borders of shrubbery4 ,it is usually most satisfactory also to make beds of one variety rather than to mix them with several varieties4 ,if it is desired to have roses in mixed shrubbery borders1 then the single and informal types should be chosen4 ,the best of all these is ,rosa rugosa4 ,this has not only attractive flowers through the greater part of the season1 but it also has very interesting foliage and a striking habit4 ,the great profusion of bristles and spines gives it an individual and strong character4 ,even without the flowers1 it is valuable to add character and cast to a foliage mass4 ,the foliage is not attacked by insects or fungi1 but remains green and glossy throughout the year4 ,the fruit is also very large and showy1 and persists on bushes well through the winter4 ,some of the wild roses are also very excellent for mixing into foliage masses1 but1 as a rule1 their foliage characteristics are rather weak1 and they are liable to be attacked by thrips4 ,there are so many classes of roses that the intending planter is likely to be confused unless he knows what they are4 ,different classes require different treatment4 ,some of them1 as the teas and hybrid perpetuals 7the latter also known as remontants71 bloom from new canes2 while the rugosa1 the ,austrian1 ,harrison's yellow1 sweet briers1 and some others are bushes and do not renew themselves each year from the crown or bases of the canes4 ,the outdoor roses may be divided into two great groups so far as their blooming habit is involved3 7#a7 ,the continuous or intermittent bloomers1 as the hybrid perpetuals 7blooming chiefly in ,june71 bourbons1 tea1 rugosa1 the teas and hybrid teas being the most continuous in bloom2 7#b7those that bloom once only1 in summer1 as ,austrian1 ,ayrshire1 sweet briers1 prairie1 ,cherokee1 ,banksian1 provence1 most moss roses1 damask1 multiflora1 polyantha1 and memorial 7,wichuraiana74 8,perpetual0 or recurrent-blooming races have been developed in the ,ayrshire1 moss1 polyantha1 and others4 ,while roses delight in a sunny exposure1 nevertheless our dry atmosphere and hot summers are sometimes trying on the flowers1 as are severe wintry winds on the plants4 ,while1 therefore1 it is never advisable to plant roses near large trees1 or where they will be overshadowed by buildings or surrounding shrubbery1 some shade during the heat of the day will be a benefit4 ,the best position is an eastern or northern slope1 and where fences or other objects will break the force of strong winds1 in those sections where such prevail4 ,roses should be carefully taken up every four or five years1 tops and roots cut in1 and then reset1 either in a new place or in the old1 after enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure1 and deeply spading it over4 ,in ,holland1 roses are allowed to stand about eight years4 ,they are then taken out and their places filled with young plants4 ,soil and planting for roses4 ,the best soil for roses is a deep and rich clay loam4 ,if it is more or less of a fibrous character from the presence of grass roots1 as is the case with newly plowed sod ground1 so much the better4 ,while such is desirable1 any ordinary soil will answer1 provided it is well manured4 ,cow manure is strong and lasting1 and has no heating effect4 ,it will cause no damage1 even if not rotted4 ,horse manure1 however1 should be well rotted before mixing it with the soil4 ,the manure may be mixed in the soil at the rate of one part in four4 ,if well rotted1 however1 more will not do any damage1 as the soil can scarcely be made too rich1 especially for the everblooming 7hybrid tea7 roses4 ,care should be taken to mix the manure thoroughly with the earth1 and not to plant the roses against the manure4 ,in planting1 care must be taken to avoid exposing the roots to the drying of sun and air4 ,if dormant field-grown plants have been purchased1 all broken and bruised roots will need to be cut off smoothly and squarely4 ,the tops also will need cutting back4 ,the cut should always be made just above a bud1 preferably on the outer side of the cane4 ,strong-growing sorts may be cut back one-fourth or one-half1 according as they have good or bad roots4 ,weaker-growing kinds1 as most of the everblooming roses1 should be cut back-most severely4 ,in both cases it is well to remove the weak growth first4 ,plants set out from pots will usually not need cutting back4 ,hardy roses1 especially the strong field-grown plants1 should be set in the early fall if practicable4 ,it is desirable to get them out just as soon as they have shed their foliage4 ,if not then1 they may be planted in the early spring4 ,at that season it is advisable to plant them as early as the ground is dry enough1 and before the buds have started to grow4 ,dormant pot-plants may also be set out early1 but they should be perfectly inactive4 ,setting them out early in this condition is preferable to waiting till they are in foliage and full bloom1 as is so often required by buyers4 ,growing pot-plants may be planted any time in spring after danger of frost is past1 or even during the summer1 if they are watered and shaded for a few days4 ,open-ground plants should be set about as deep as they stood previously1 excepting budded or grafted plants1 which should be set so that the union of the stock and graft will be #b to #d inches below the surface of the ground4 ,plants from pots may also be set an inch deeper than they stood in the pots4 ,the soil should be in a friable condition4 ,roses should have the soil compact immediately about their roots2 but we should distinguish between planting roses and setting fence posts4 ,the dryer the soil the more firmly it may be pressed4 ,as a general statement1 it may be said that roses on their own roots will prove more satisfactory for the general run of planters than budded stock4 ,on own-rooted stock1 the suckers or shoots from below the surface of the soil will be of the same kind1 whereas with budded roses there is danger of the stock 7usually ,manetti or dog rose7 starting into growth and1 not being discovered1 outgrowing the bud1 taking possession1 and finally killing out the weaker growth4 ,still1 if the plants are set deep enough to prevent adventitious buds of the stock from starting and the grower is alert1 this difficulty is reduced to a minimum4 ,there is no question but that finer roses may be grown than from plants on their own roots1 withstanding the heat of the ,american summer1 if the grower takes the proper precautions4 ,pruning roses4 ,in pruning roses1 determine whether they bloom on canes arising each year from the ground or near the ground1 or whether they make perennial tops2 also form a clear idea whether an abundance of flowers is wanted for garden effects1 or whether large specimen blooms are desired4 ,if one is pruning the hybrid perpetual or remontant roses 7which are now the common garden roses71 he cuts back all very vigorous canes perhaps one-half their length immediately after the ,june bloom is past in order to produce new1 strong shoots for fall flowering1 and also to make good bottoms for the next year's bloom4 ,very severe summer pruning1 however1 is likely to produce too much leafy growth4 ,in the fall1 all canes may be shortened to #c feet1 four or five of the best canes being left to each plant4 ,in spring1 these canes are again cut back to fresh wood1 leaving perhaps four or five good buds on each cane2 from these buds the flowering canes of the year are to come4 ,if it is desired to secure fewer blooms1 but of the best size and quality1 fewer canes may be left and only two or three new shoots be allowed to spring from each one the next spring4 ,the rule in trimming all cane-bearing roses is1 cut back weak growing kinds severely2 strong growers moderately4 ,climbing and pillar roses need only the weak branches and the tips shortened in4 ,other hardy kinds will usually need cutting back about one-fourth or one-third1 according to the vigor of the branches1 either in the spring or fall4 ,the everblooming or hybrid tea roses will need to have all dead wood removed at the time of uncovering them in spring4 ,some pruning during the summer is also useful in encouraging growth and flowers4 ,the stronger branches that have flowered may be cut back one-half or more4 ,the sweet briers1 ,austrian and rugosas may be kept in bush form2 but the trunks may be cut out at the ground every two or three years1 new shoots having been allowed to come up in the meantime4 ,all rampant growths should be cut back or taken out4 ,insects and diseases of roses4 ,most of the summer insects that trouble the rose are best treated by a forceful spray of clear water4 ,this should be done early in the day and again at evening4 ,those having city water or good spray pumps will find this an easy method of keeping rose pests in check4 ,those without these facilities may use whale-oil soap1 fir-tree oil1 good soap suds1 the tobacco preparations1 or ,persian insect powder4 ,the rose-bug or chafer should be hand-picked or knocked off early in the morning into a pan of coal oil4 ,the leaf-roller must be crushed4 ,the mildews are controlled by the various sulfur sprays4 ,winter protection of roses4 ,all garden roses should be well mulched with leaves or coarse manure in the fall4 ,mounding earth about the root also affords excellent protection4 ,bending over the tops and covering with grass or evergreen boughs is also to be recommended for such kinds as are suspected to be injured by winter2 the boughs are preferable because they do not attract mice4 ,north of the ,ohio ,river all the everblooming roses1 even if they will endure the winter unprotected1 will be better for protection4 ,this may be slight southward1 but should be thorough northward4 ,the soil1 location1 and surroundings often determine the extent of protection4 ,if the situation is not so favorable1 more protection will be necessary4 ,along the ,ohio1 a heap of stable manure1 or light soil that does not become packed and water-logged1 placed about the base of the plants1 will carry over many of the tea roses4 ,the tops are killed back2 but the plants sprout from the base of the old branches in the spring4 ,bon ,silene1 ,etoile de ,lyon1 ,perle des ,jardins1 ,mme4 ,camille1 and others are readily wintered there in this way4 ,about ,chicago 7,american ,florist1 x41 ,no4 #ceh1 p4 #ibi1 #ahie7 beds have been successfully protected by bending down the tops1 fastening them1 and then placing over and among the plants a layer of dead leaves to the depth of a foot4 ,the leaves must be dry1 and the soil also1 before applying them2 this is very essential4 ,after the leaves1 a layer of lawn-clippings1 highest at the middle1 and #d or #e inches thick1 placed over the leaves1 holds them in place and sheds water4 ,this protection carries over the hardiest sorts of everblooming roses1 including the teas4 ,the tops are killed back when not bent down1 but this protection saves the roots and crowns2 when bent down1 the tops went through without damage4 ,even the climbing rose ,gloire de ,dijon was carried through the winter of #ahid-ahie at ,chicago without the slightest injury to the branches4 ,strong plants of the everblooming or hybrid tea roses can now be had at very reasonable rates1 and rather than go to the trouble of protecting them in the fall1 many persons buy such as they need for bedding purposes each spring4 ,if the soil of the beds is well enriched1 the plants make a rapid and luxuriant growth1 blooming freely throughout the summer4 ,if one desires to go to the trouble1 he may protect these and also the tea roses even in the northern states by mounding earth about the plants and then building a little shed or house about them 7or inverting a large box over them7 and packing about the plants with leaves or straw4 ,some persons make boxes that can be knocked down in the spring and stored4 ,the roof should shed water4 ,this method is better than tying the plants up in straw and burlaps4 ,some of the hybrid teas do not need so much protection as this1 even in central ,new ,york4 ,varieties of roses4 ,the selection of kinds should be made in reference to the locality and purpose for which the roses are wanted4 ,for bedding roses1 those that are of free-blooming habit1 even though the individual flowers are not large1 are the ones that should be chosen4 ,for permanent beds1 the so-called hybrid perpetual or remontant roses1 blooming principally in ,june1 will be found to be hardy at the ,north4--,but if one can give them proper protection during the winter1 then the ,bengal1 tea1 bourbon1 and hybrid teas or everblooming roses1 may be selected4 ,in sections where the temperature does not fall below #bj above zero1 any of the monthly roses will live without protection4 ,at the ,south the remontants and other deciduous roses do not do as well as farther ,north4 ,the tender climbers--,noisettes1 climbing teas1 bengals1 and others--are excellent for pillars1 arbors1 and verandas at the ,south1 but are fit only for the conservatory in those parts of the country where there is severe freezing4 ,for the open air at the ,north we have to depend for climbing roses mainly on the prairie climbers1 and the ramblers 7polyanthas71 with their recent pink and white varieties4 ,the trailing ,rosa ,wichuraiana is also a useful addition as an excellent hardy rose for banks4 ,for the northern states a choice small list is as follows3 hybrid perpetuals1 ,mrs4 ,john ,laing1 ,wilder1 ,ulrich ,brunner1 ,frau ,karl ,druschki1 ,paul ,neyron2 dwarf polyanthas1 ,clothilde ,soupert1 ,madame ,norbert ,levavasseur 7,baby ,rambler71 ,mlle4 ,cecile ,brunner2 hybrid teas1 ,grus an ,teplitz1 ,la ,france1 ,caroline ,testout1 ,kaiserin ,victoria1 ,killarney2 teas1 ,pink ,maman ,cochet1 ,white ,maman ,cochet4 ,the following classified lists embrace some of the varieties of recognized merit for various purposes4 ,there are many others1 but it is desirable to limit the list to a few good kinds4 ,the intending planter should consult recent catalogues4 ,free-blooming monthly roses for bedding4--,these are recommended not for the individual beauty of the flower--although some are very fine--but because of their suitability for the purpose indicated4 ,if to be carried over winter in the open ground1 they need to be protected north of ,washington4 ,in beds1 pegging down the branches will be found desirable4 ,those marked 7,a7 have proved hardy in southern ,indiana without protection1 although they are more satisfactory with it4 7,the name of the class to which the variety belongs is indicated by the initial letter or letters of the class name3 ,c41 ,china2 ,t41 ,tea2 ,h4,t41 ,hybrid ,tea2 ,b41 ,bourbon2 ,pol41 ,polyantha2 ,n41 ,noisette2 ,h4,p41 ,hybrid ,perpetual2 ,pr41 ,prairie ,climber73-- ,red--,sanguinea1 ,c4 ,agrippina1 ,c4 ,marion ,dingee1 ,t4 7,a7,meteor1 ,h4,t4 ,pink--7,a7,hermosa1 ,b4 ,souvenir d'un ,ami1 ,t4 ,pink ,soupert1 ,pol4 7,a7,gen4 ,tartas1 ,t4 ,blush--7,a7,cels1 ,c4 ,mme4 ,joseph ,schwartz1 ,t4 7,a7,souvenir de la ,malmaison1 ,b4 ,mignonette1 ,pol4 ,white--7,a7,clothilde ,soupert1 ,pol4 7,a7,sombreuil1 ,b4 ,snowflake1 ,t4 ,pacquerette1 ,pol4 ,yellow--7,a7,isabella ,sprunt1 ,t4 ,mosella 7,yellow ,soupert71 ,pol4 ,la ,pactole1 ,t4 ,marie van ,houtte1 ,t4 ,free-blooming monthly roses for summer cutting and beds4--,these are somewhat less desirable for purely bedding purposes than the preceding2 but they afford finer flowers and are useful for their fine buds4 ,those marked 7,a7 are hardy in southern ,indiana without protection3-- ,red--7,a7,meteor4 7,a7,dinsmore1 ,h4,p4 7,a7,pierre ,guillot1 ,h4,t4 ,papa ,gontier1 ,t4 ,light ,pink--7,a7,la ,france1 ,h4,t4 ,countess de ,labarthe1 ,t4 7,a7,appoline1 ,b4 ,white--,the ,bride1 ,t4 ,senator ,mc,naughton1 ,t4 7,a7,marie ,guillot1 ,t4 7,a7,mme4 ,bavay1 ,t4 ,kaiserin ,augusta ,victoria1 ,h4,t4 ,dark ,pink--7,a7,american ,beauty1 ,h4,t4 7,a7,duchess of ,albany1 ,h4,t4 ,mme4 ,c4 ,testout1 ,h4,t4 ,adam1 ,t4 7,a7,marie ,ducher1 ,t4 ,yellow--,perle des ,jardins1 ,t4 ,mme4 ,welch1 ,t4 ,sunset1 ,t4 ,marie van ,houtte1 ,t4 ,hybrid perpetual1 or remontant1 roses1--,these do not flower as freely as the groups previously mentioned2 but the individual flowers are very large and unequaled by any other roses4 ,they flower chiefly in ,june4 ,those named are among the finest sorts1 and some of them flower more or less continuously3-- ,red--,alfred ,colomb4 ,earl of ,dufferin4 ,glorie de ,margottin4 ,anna de ,diesbach4 ,ulrich ,brunner4 ,pink--,mrs4 ,john ,laing4 ,paul ,neyron4 ,queen of ,queens4 ,magna ,charta4 ,baroness ,rothschild4 ,white--,margaret ,dickson4 ,merveille de ,lyon4 ,hardy climbing1 or pillar roses4--,these bloom but once during the season4 ,they come after the ,june roses1 however1--a good season--and at that time are masses of flowers4 ,they require only slight pruning4 ,white--,baltimore ,belle1 ,pr4 ,washington1 ,n4 ,rosa ,wichuraiana 7trailing74 ,pink--,queen of the ,prairies1 ,pr4 ,tennessee ,belle1 ,pr4 ,climbing ,jules ,margotten1 ,h4,p4 ,crimson--,crimson ,rambler1 ,pol4 ,yellow--,yellow ,rambler1 ,pol4 ,tender climbing1 or pillar roses4 ,for conservatories1 and the ,south as far north as ,tennessee4--,those marked with 7,a7are half-hardy north of the ,ohio ,river1 or about as hardy as the hybrid teas4 ,these need no pruning except a slight shortening-in of the shoots and a thinning out of the weak growth4 ,yellow--,marchal ,niel1 ,n4 ,solfaterre1 ,n4 7,a7,gloire de ,dijon1 ,t4 ,yellow ,banksia 7,banksiana74 ,white--7,a7,aime ,vibert1 ,n4 ,bennett's ,seedling 7,ayrshire74 ,white ,banksia 7,banksiana74 ,red--7,a7,reine ,marie ,henriette1 ,t4 ,james ,sprunt1 ,c4 ,roses in winter 7by ,c4,e4 ,hunn74 ,although the growing of roses under glass must be left chiefly to florists1 advice may be useful to those who have conservatories3-- ,when growing forcing roses for winter flowers1 florists usually provide raised beds1 in the best-lighted houses they have4 ,the bottom of the bed or bench is left with cracks between the boards for drainage2 the cracks are covered with inverted strips of sod1 and the bench is then covered with #d or #e inches of fresh1 fibrous loam4 ,this is made from rotted sods1 with decayed manure incorporated at the rate of about one part in four4 ,sod from any drained pasture-land makes good soil4 ,the plants are set on the bed in the spring or early summer1 from #ab to #ah inches apart1 and are grown there all summer4 ,during the winter they are kept at a temperature of #eh to #fj at night1 and from #e to #aj warmer during the day4 ,the heating pipes are often run under the benches1 not because the rose likes bottom heat1 but to economize space and to assist in drying out the beds in case of their becoming too wet4 ,the greatest care is required in watering1 in guarding the temperature1 and in ventilation4 ,draughts result in checks to the growth and in mildewed foliage4 ,dryness of the air1 especially from fire heat1 is followed by the appearance of the minute red spider on the leaves4 ,the aphis1 or green plant louse1 appears under all conditions1 and must be kept down by the use of some of the tobacco preparations 7several of which are on the market74 ,for the red spider1 the chief means of control is syringing with either clear or soapy water4 ,if the plants are intelligently ventilated and given1 at all times1 as much fresh air as possible1 the red spider is less likely to appear4 ,for mildew1 which is easily recognized by its white1 powdery appearance on the foliage1 accompanied with more or less distortion of the leaves1 the remedy is sulfur in some form or other4 ,the flowers of sulfur may be dusted thinly over the foliage2 enough merely slightly to whiten the foliage is sufficient4 ,it may be dusted on from the hand in a broadcast way1 or applied with a powder-bellows1 which is a better and less wasteful method4 ,again1 a paint composed of sulfur and linseed oil may be applied to a part of one of the steam or hot-water heating pipes4 ,the fumes arising from this are not agreeable to breathe1 but fatal to mildew4 ,again1 a little sulfur may be sprinkled here and there on the cooler parts of the greenhouse flue4 ,under no circumstances1 however1 ignite any sulfur in a greenhouse4 ,the vapor of burning sulfur is death to plants4 ,propagation of house roses4--,the writer has known women who could root roses with the greatest ease4 ,they would simply break off a branch of the rose1 insert it in the flower-bed1 cover it with a bell-jar1 and in a few weeks they would have a strong plant4 ,again they would resort to layering2 in which case a branch1 notched halfway through on the lower side1 was bent to the ground and pegged down so that the notched part was covered with a few inches of soil4 ,the layered spot was watered from time to time4 ,after three or four weeks roots were sent forth from the notch and the branch or buds began to grow1 when it was known that the layer had formed roots4 ,several years ago a friend took a cheese-box1 filled it with sharp sand to the brim1 supported it in a tub of water so that the lower half-inch of the box was immersed4 ,the sand was packed down1 sprinkled1 and single-joint rose cuttings1 with a bud and a leaf near the top1 were inserted almost their whole length in the sand4 ,this was in ,july1 a hot month1 when it is usually difficult to root any kind of cutting2 moreover1 the box stood on a southern slope1 facing the hot sun1 without a particle of shade4 ,the only attention given the box was to keep the water high enough in the tub to touch the bottom of the cheese-box4 ,in about three weeks he took out three or four dozen of as nicely rooted cuttings as could have been grown in a greenhouse4 ,the 8saucer system10 in which cuttings are inserted in wet sand contained in a saucer an inch or two deep1 to be exposed at all times to the full sunshine1 is of a similar nature4 ,the essentials are1 to give the cuttings the 8full sun0 and to keep the sand saturated with water4 ,whatever method is used1 if cuttings are to be transplanted after rooting1 it is important to pot them off in small pots as soon as they have a cluster of roots one-half inch or an inch long4 ,leaving them too long in the sand weakens the cutting4 ,smilax of the florists is closely allied to asparagus 7it is ,asparagus medeoloides of the botanists74 ,while it cannot be recommended for house culture1 the ease with which it may be grown and the uses to which the festoons of leaves may be put entitle it to a place in the conservatory or greenhouse4 ,seed sown in pots or boxes in ,january or ,february1 the plants shifted as needed until planted on the bench in ,august1 will grow fine strings of green by the holidays4 ,the temperature should be rather high4 ,the plants should be set on low benches1 giving as much room as possible overhead4 ,green-colored strings should be used for the vines to climb on1 the vines frequently syringed to keep down the red spider1 which is very destructive to this plant1 and liquid manure given as the vines grow4 ,the soil should contain a good proportion of sand and be enriched with well-rotted manure4 ,after the first strings are cut1 a second growth fully as good as the first may be had by cleaning up the plants and top-dressing the soil with rotted manure4 ,sometimes the old roots are kept three or four years4 ,slightly shading the house through ,august will add to the color of the leaves4 ,the odor from a vine of smilax thickly covered with the small flowers is very agreeable4 ,stocks4--,the ,ten-weeks and the biennial or ,brompton stocks 7species of ,matthiola7 are found in nearly all old-fashioned gardens4 ,most gardens are thought to be incomplete without them1 and the use of the biennial flowering species as house-plants is increasing4 ,the ,ten-weeks stock is usually grown from seed sown in hotbeds or boxes in ,march4 ,the seedlings are transplanted several times previous to being planted out in early ,may4 ,at each transplanting the soil should be made a little richer4 ,the double flowers will be more numerous when the soil is rich4 ,the biennial species 7or ,brompton stocks7 should be sown the season previous to that in which flowers are wanted1 the plants wintered over in a cool house1 and grown in the following spring4 ,they may be planted out through the summer and lifted into pots in ,august or ,september for winter flowering4 ,these may be increased by cuttings taken from the side shoots2 but the sowing of seed is a surer method1 and unless an extra fine variety is to be saved1 it would be the best one to pursue4 ,height1 #aj to #ae inches4 ,sweet pea4--,a hardy1 tendril-climbing annual1 universally prized as an outdoor garden plant2 also forced to some extent by florists4 ,on any occasion the sweet pea is in place4 ,a bouquet of shaded colors1 with a few sprays of galium or the perennial gypsophila1 makes one of the choicest of table decorations4 ,deep1 mellow soil1 early planting1 and heavy mulching suit them admirably4 ,it is easy to make soils too rich in nitrogen for sweet peas2 in such case1 they will run to vine at the expense of flowers4 ,sow the seeds as soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring1 making a drill #e inches deep4 ,sow thickly and cover with #b inches of earth4 ,when the plants have made #b or #c inches' growth above the earth1 fill the drill nearly full1 leaving a slight depression in which water may be caught4 ,after the soil is thoroughly soaked with water1 a good mulch will hold the moisture4 ,to have the ground ready in early spring1 it is a good plan to trench the ground in the fall4 ,the top of the soil then dries out very quickly in spring and is left in good physical condition4 ,in the middle and southern states the seed may be planted in fall1 particularly in lighter soils4 ,frequent syringing with clear water will keep off the red spider that often destroys the foliage1 and attention to picking the seed pods will lengthen the season of bloom4 ,if the finest flowers are wanted1 do not let the plants stand less than #h to #ab inches apart4 ,a succession of sowings may be made at intervals through ,may and ,june1 and a fair fall crop secured if care is taken to water and mulch2 but the best results will be secured with the very early planting4 ,when the plants are watered1 apply enough to soak the soil1 and do not water frequently4 ,swainsona4--,this plant has been called the winter sweet pea1 but the flowers are not fragrant4 ,it makes a very desirable house plant1 blooming through the late winter and early spring months4 ,the blossoms1 which resemble those of the pea1 are borne in long racemes4 ,the foliage is finely cut1 resembling small locust leaves1 and adds to the beauty of the plant1 the whole effect being exceedingly graceful4 ,swainsona may be grown from seed or cuttings4 ,cuttings taken in late winter should make blooming plants in summer2 these plants may be used for winter bloom1 but it is better to raise new plants4 ,some gardeners cut back old plants to secure new blooming wood2 this is desirable if the plants grow more or less permanently in the greenhouse border1 but for pots new plants should be grown4 ,the common swainsona is white-flowered2 but there is a good rose-colored variety4 ,tuberose 7properly tuber-ose1 not tube-rose1 from its specific name1 ,polianthes tuberosa74--,this plant1 with its tall spikes of waxen and fragrant white flowers1 is well known in the middle latitudes1 but usually requires more heat and a longer season than are commonly present in the most northern states4 ,the tuberose is a strong feeder1 and loves warmth1 plenty of water while growing1 and a deep1 rich1 and well-drained soil4 ,the bulbs may be set in the garden or border the last of ,may or in ,june1 covering them about #a inch deep4 ,preparatory to planting1 the old dead roots at the base of the bulb should be cut away and the pips or young bulbs about the sides removed4 ,after keeping them till their scars are dried over1 these pips may be planted #e or #f inches apart in drills1 and with good soil and cultivation they will make blooming bulbs for the following year4 ,before planting the large bulbs1 it may be well to examine the points1 to determine whether they are likely to bloom4 ,the tuberose blooms but once4 ,if there is a hard1 woody piece of old stem in the midst of the dry scales at the apex of the bulb1 it has bloomed1 and is of no value except for producing pips4 ,likewise if1 instead of a solid core1 there is a brownish1 dry cavity extending from the tip down into the middle of the bulb1 the heart has rotted or dried up1 and the bulb is worthless as far as blooming is concerned4 ,bulbs of blooming size set in the border in ,june flower toward the close of ,september4 ,they may be made to flower three or four weeks sooner by starting them early in some warm place1 where they may be given a temperature of about #fj to #gj4 ,prepare the bulbs as above1 and place them with their tips just above the surface in about #c-or #d-;inch pots1 in light sandy soil4 ,water them thoroughly1 afterwards sparingly1 till the leaves have made considerable growth4 ,these plants may be turned out into the open ground the last of ,may or in ,june1 and will probably flower in early ,september4 ,,xx4 ,a simple but effective window-box1 containing geraniums1 petunias1 verbenas1 heliotrope1 and vines4 ,,xx4 ,a simple but effective window-box1 containing geraniums1 petunias1 verbenas1 heliotrope1 and vines4 ,in the northern states1 if planted in the border they will not start into growth until the ground has become thoroughly warm1--usually after the middle of ,june1--making the season before frost too short for their perfect growth and flower4 ,if any danger of fall frost is feared1 they may be lifted into pots or boxes and taken into the house1 when they will bloom without a check4 ,as with other bulbs1 a sandy soil will suit4 ,just before frost dig up the bulbs1 cut off the tops to within #b inches of the apex of the bulb4 ,they may then be placed in shallow boxes and left out in the sun and air for a week or more1 to cure4 ,each evening1 if the nights are cold1 they should be removed to some room where the temperature will not fall below #dj4 ,when the outer scales have become dry1 the remaining soil may be shaken off and the bulbs stored away in shallow boxes for the winter4 ,they keep best in a temperature of #de to #ej4 ,it should never fall below #dj4 ,the ,dwarf ,pearl1 originating in #ahgj1 has long been popular1 and is still so with many4 ,but others have come to prefer the old1 tall kind1 the flowers of which1 even if not so large1 are perfect in form and seem to open better4 ,tulips are undoubtedly the most prized of all early spring bulbs4 ,they are hardy and easy to grow4 ,they also bloom well in winter in a sunny climate4 ,the garden bed will last several years if well cared for1 but most satisfactory bloom is secured if the old bulbs are taken up every two or three years and replanted1 all the inferior ones being cast aside4 ,when the stock begins to run out1 buy anew4 ,the old stock1 if not entirely spent1 may be planted in the shrubbery or perennial borders4 ,september is the best time for planting tulips1 but as the beds are usually occupied at this time1 planting is commonly postponed till ,october of ,november4 ,for garden culture the single early tulips are the best4 ,there are excellent early double-flowered varieties4 ,some prefer the double1 as their flowers last longer4 ,late tulips are gorgeous1 but occupy the beds too long in the spring4 ,while tulips are hardy1 they are benefited by a winter mulch4 ,in working out design patterns1 the utmost care should be used to have the lines and curves uniform1 which is only to be secured by marking out the design1 and careful planting4 ,formal planting is1 however1 by no means necessary for pleasing effects4 ,borders1 lines1 and masses of single colors1 or groups of mixed colors which harmonize1 are always in order and pleasing4 ,clear colors are preferable to neutral tints4 ,as varieties vary in height and season of blooming1 only named varieties should be ordered if uniform bedding effects are desired4 ,see pp4 #bhf and #cde2 ,fig4 #bee4 ,violet4--,while the culture of violets as house-plants rarely proves successful1 there is no reason why a good supply may not be had elsewhere through the greater part of the winter and the spring months4 ,a sheltered location being selected1 young plants from runners may be set in ,august or ,september4 ,have the ground fertile and well drained4 ,these plants will make fine crowns by ,december1 and often will bloom before weather sufficiently cold to freeze them4 ,to have flowers through the winter1 it will be necessary to afford some protection4 ,this may best be accomplished by building a frame of boards large enough to cover the plants1 making the frame in the same way as for a hotbed1 #d to #f inches higher at the back than the front4 ,cover the frame with sash or boards1 and as the weather becomes severe1 mats or straw should be placed over and around the frame to protect the plants from freezing4 ,whenever the weather will permit1 the covering should be removed and air admitted1 but no harm will come if the frames are not disturbed for several weeks4 ,much sunlight and a high temperature through the middle of winter are to be avoided1 for if the plants are stimulated1 a shorter period of bloom will result4 ,in ,april the frame may be removed1 the plants yielding the later part of the crop without protection4 ,violets belong with the 8cool0 plants of florists4 ,when well hardened off1 considerable frost does not harm them4 ,they should always be kept stocky4 ,start a new lot from runner-plants each year4 ,they thrive in a temperature of #ee to #fe4 ,pages #aij1 #bjf4 ,wax-plant4--,the wax-plant1 or hoya1 is one of the commonest of window-garden plants1 and yet it is one that house-gardeners usually have difficulty in flowering4 ,however1 it is one of the easiest plants to manage if a person understands its nature4 ,it is naturally a summer-blooming plant1 and should rest in winter4 ,in the winter1 keep it just alive in a cool and rather dry place4 ,if the temperature does not go above #ej ,fahr41 so much the better2 neither should it go much lower4 ,in late winter or spring1 the plant is brought out to warm temperature1 given water1 and started into growth4 ,the old flower-stems should not be cut off1 since new flowers come from them as well as from the new wood4 ,when it is brought out to be started into growth1 it may be repotted1 sometimes into a size larger pot1 but always with more or less fresh earth4 ,the plant should increase in value each year4 ,in conservatories1 it is sometimes planted out in the ground and allowed to run over a wall1 in which case it will reach a height of many feet4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,fruit ,,plants ,fruits should be counted a regular part of the home premises4 ,there are few residence plots so small that fruits of some kind cannot be grown4 ,if there is no opportunity for planting the orchard fruits by themselves at regular intervals1 there are still boundaries to the place1 and along these boundaries and scattered in the border masses1 apples1 pears1 and other fruits may be planted4 ,it is not to be expected that fruits will thrive as well in these places as in well-tilled orchards1 but something can be done1 and the results are often very satisfactory4 ,along a back fence or walk1 one may plant a row or two of currants1 gooseberries1 or blackberries1 or he may make a trellis of grapes4 ,if there are no trees near the front or back of the border1 the fruit plants may be placed close together in the row and the greatest development of the tops may be allowed to take place laterally4 ,if one has a back yard fifty feet on a side1 there will be opportunity1 in three borders1 for six to eight fruit trees1 and bush-fruits between1 without encroaching greatly on the lawn4 ,in such cases1 the trees are planted just inside the boundary line4 ,a suggestion for the arrangement of a fruit garden of one acre is given in ,fig4 #bgj4 ,such a plan allows of continuous cultivation in one direction and facilitates spraying1 pruning1 and harvesting2 and the intermediate spaces may be used for the growing of annual crops1 at least for a few years4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgj4 ,plan for a fruit-garden of one acre4 ,from 8,principles of ,fruit-growing40 ,dwarf fruit-trees4 ,for very small areas1 and for the growing of the finest dessert fruits1 dwarf trees may be grown of apples and pears4 ,the apple is dwarfed when it is worked on certain small and slow-growing types of apple trees1 as the paradise and doucin stocks4 ,the paradise is the better1 if one desires a very small and productive tree or bush4 ,the doucin makes only a half-dwarf4 ,the pear is dwarfed when it is grown on the root of quince4 ,dwarf pears may be planted as close as ten feet apart each way1 although more room should be given them if possible4 ,paradise dwarfs 7apples7 may be planted eight or ten feet each way1 and doucin twice that distance4 ,all dwarfs should be kept small by vigorous annual heading-in4 ,if the tree is making good growth1 say one to three feet1 a half to two-thirds of the growth may be taken off in winter4 ,a dwarf apple or pear tree should be kept within a height of twelve or fifteen feet1 and it should not attain this stature in less than ten or twelve years4 ,a dwarf apple tree1 in full bearing1 should average from two pecks to a bushel of first quality apples1 and a dwarf pear should do somewhat more than this4 ,if one grows dwarf fruit trees1 he should expect to give them extra attention in pruning and cultivating4 ,only in very exceptional instances can the dwarf fruits be expected to equal the free-growing standards in commercial results4 ,this is particularly true of dwarf apples1 which are practically home-garden plants in this country4 ,this being the case1 only the choice dessert fruits should be attempted on paradise and doucin roots4 ,for home gardens the paradise will probably give more satisfaction than the doucin4 ,if the tree is taken young1 it may be trained along a wall or on an espalier trellis2 and in such conditions the fruits should be of extra quality if the varieties are choice4 ,plate ,,xxii shows the training of a dwarf pear on a wall4 ,this tree has been many years in good bearing4 ,in most parts of the country a southern wall exposure is likely to force the bloom so early as to invite danger from spring frosts4 ,age and size of trees4 ,for ordinary planting1 it is desirable to choose trees two years from bud or graft1 except in case of the peach1 which should be one year old4 ,many growers find strong one-year trees preferable4 ,a good size is about five-eighths of an inch in diameter just above the collar1 and five feet in height1 and if they have been well grown1 trees of this size will give as good results as those seven-eighths of an inch1 or more1 in diameter1 and six or seven feet high4 ,buy first-class trees of reliable dealers4 ,it rarely pays to try to save a few cents on a tree1 for quality is likely to be sacrificed4 ,if properly packed1 trees can be shipped long distances and may do as well as those grown in a home nursery1 but it will generally be best to secure the trees as near home as possible1 provided the quality of the trees and the price are satisfactory4 ,when a large number is to be purchased1 it will be better to send the order direct to some reliable nursery1 or to select the trees in person1 than to rely on tree peddlers4 ,pruning4 ,having planted the trees1 they should be carefully pruned4 ,as a rule1 trees with low heads are desirable4 ,peaches and dwarf pears should have the lower branches from #ab to #bd inches above ground1 and sweet cherries and standard pears generally not over #cj inches2 plums1 sour cherries1 and apples may be somewhat higher1 but if properly handled1 when started #c feet from the ground1 the tops will not be in the way of the cultivation of the orchard4 ,for all except the peach in the northern states1 a pyramidal form will be desirable4 ,to secure this1 four or five side branches with three or four buds each1 should be allowed to grow and the center shoot should be cut off at a height of #aj to #ab inches4 ,after growth has started1 the trees should be occasionally examined and all surplus shoots removed1 thus throwing the full vigor of the plant into those that remain4 ,as a rule three or four shoots on each branch may be left to advantage4 ,the following spring the shoots should be cut back one-half and about half of the branches removed4 ,care should be taken to avoid crotches1 and if any of the branches cross1 so that they are likely to rub1 one or the other should be cut out4 ,this cutting-back and trimming-out should be continued for two or three years1 and in the case of dwarf pear trees regular heading-back each year should be continued4 ,although an occasional heading-back will be of advantage to the trees1 apple1 plum1 and cherry trees that have been properly pruned while young will not require so much attention after they come into bearing4 ,heavy pruning of the top tends to the production of wood2 therefore the severe pruning of orchard trees1 following three or four years of neglect1 sets the trees into heavy wood-bearing1 and makes them more vigorous4 ,such treatment generally tends away from fruit-bearing4 ,this heavy pruning is usually necessary in neglected orchards1 however1 to bring trees back into shape and to revitalize them2 but the best pruning-treatment of an orchard is to prune it a little every year4 ,it should be so pruned that the tops of the trees will be open1 that no two limbs will interfere with each other1 and so that the fruit itself will not be so abundant as to overload the tree4 ,in general1 it is best to prune orchard trees late in winter or early in spring4 ,it is sometimes better1 however1 to leave peaches and other tender fruits until after the buds have swollen1 or even after the flowers have fallen1 in order that one may determine how much they have been injured by the winter4 ,grape vines should be pruned in winter or not later 7in ,new ,york7 than the first of ,march4 ,if pruned later than this1 they may bleed4 ,the above remarks will apply to other trees as well as to fruits4 ,thinning the fruit4 ,if the best size and quality of fruit are desired1 care must be taken to see that the plant does not overbear4 ,thinning of fruit has four general uses3 to cause the remaining fruit to grow larger2 to increase the chances of annual crops2 to save the vitality of the tree2 to enable one to combat insects and diseases by destroying the injured fruit4 ,the thinning is nearly always performed soon after the fruit is thoroughly set4 ,it is then possible to determine which of the fruits are likely to persist4 ,peaches are usually thinned when they are the size of one's thumb4 ,if thinned before this time1 they are so small that it is difficult to pick them off2 and it is not so easy to see the work of the curculio and thereby to select the injured fruits4 ,similar remarks apply to other fruits4 ,the general tendency is1 even with those who thin their fruits1 not to thin enough4 ,it is usually safer to take off what would seem to be too many than not to take off enough4 ,the remaining specimens are better4 ,varieties that tend to overbear profit very greatly by thinning4 ,this is notably the case with many ,japanese plums1 which1 if not thinned1 are very inferior4 ,thinning may also be accomplished by pruning4 ,cutting off the fruit-buds will have the effect of removing the fruit4 ,in the case of tender fruits1 as peaches1 however1 it may not be advisable to thin very heavily by means of pruning1 since the fruit may be still further thinned by the remaining days of winter1 by late spring frost1 or by the leaf-curl or other disease4 ,however1 the proper pruning of a peach tree in winter is1 in part1 a thinning of the fruit4 ,the peach is borne on the wood of the previous season's growth4 ,the best fruits are to be expected the strongest and heaviest growth4 ,it is the practice of peach-growers to remove all the weak and immature wood from the inside of the tree4 ,this has the effect of thinning out the inferior fruit and allowing the energy of the tree to be expended on the remainder4 ,apples are rarely thinned2 but1 in many cases1 thinning can be done with profit4 ,washing and scrubbing the trees4 ,the washing of orchard trees is an old practice4 ,it usually results in making a tree more vigorous4 ,one reason is that it destroys insects and fungi that lodge underneath the bark2 but probably the chief reason is that it softens the bark and allows the trunk to expand4 ,it is possible1 also1 that the potash from the soap or lye eventually passes into the ground and affords some plant-food4 ,trees are ordinarily washed with soap suds or with a lye solution4 ,the material is usually applied with an old broom or a stiff brush4 ,the scrubbing of the tree is perhaps nearly or quite as beneficial as the application of the wash itself4 ,it is customary to wash trees late in spring or early in summer1 and again in the fall1 with the idea that such washing destroys the eggs and the young of borers4 ,it no doubt will destroy borers if they are just getting a start1 but it will not keep away the insects that lay the eggs1 and will not destroy the borers that have found their way beneath the bark4 ,it is perhaps quite as well to wash the trees very early in the spring1 when they are starting into growth4 ,it is an old practice to wash trees with strong lye when they are affected with the oyster-shell bark louse4 ,the modern method of treating these pests1 however1 is to spray with some kerosene or oil compound when the young growth is starting1 for at that time the young insects are migrating to the new wood and they are very easily destroyed4 ,the whitewashing of the trunks of trees tends also to relieve them of insects and fungi2 and it is probable that in hot and dry regions the white covering affords protection from climate4 ,gathering and keeping fruit4 ,nearly all fruits should be gathered as soon as they will readily part from the stems on which they are borne4 ,with many perishable fruits the proper time for gathering will be determined largely by the distance they are to be shipped4 ,with the exception of winter varieties of apples and pears and a few kinds of grapes1 it is best to dispose of fruit soon after it is gathered1 unless it is kept for family use4 ,if for winter use1 the fruit should at once be placed in the cellar or fruit house in which it is to be stored1 and there kept as near the freezing point as possible4 ,there will be less danger of shriveling if the fruit is placed at once in closed barrels or other tight packages1 but if proper ventilation is provided1 it may be kept in bins with little loss4 ,even though no ice is used1 it will be possible to maintain a fairly low temperature by opening the windows at night when the outside atmosphere is colder than that inside the building1 and closing them during the day as the outer air becomes warmer4 ,fruit should be handled with great care at all times1 for if the cells become broken by rough handling1 the keeping qualities will be greatly injured4 ,the illustrations 7,figs4 #ahg-ahi7 show three types of fruit storage houses4 ,apples and winter pears may be packed in sand or leaves in the cellar 7in boxes7 and thereby be kept from shriveling4 ,almond4--,the almond tree is seldom seen in the eastern states1 but now and then one will be found in a yard and not bearing4 ,the failure to bear may be due to frost injury or lack of pollination4 ,the almond is about as hardy as the peach1 but it blooms so early in the spring that it is little grown east of the ,pacific slope4 ,it is an interesting ornamental tree1 and its early bloom is a merit when the fruit is not desired4 ,the almonds commonly sold by nurserymen in the east are hard-shell varieties1 and the nuts are not good enough for commerce4 ,the almond fruit is a drupe1 like the peach1 but the flesh is thin and hard and the pit is the 8almond0 of commerce4 ,culture as for peach4 ,the 8flowering almonds0 are bushes of different species from the fruit-bearing tree4 ,they are usually grafted on plum1 and the stock is likely to throw up suckers and cause trouble4 ,apples thrive over a wider range of territory and under more varied conditions than any other tree fruit4 ,this means that they are easy to grow4 ,in fact they are so easy to grow that they are usually neglected4 ,apples do best on a strong1 sandy loam soil1 or a light clay loam4 ,while a soil very rich in organic matter is not desirable1 good results cannot be secured unless it contains a fair amount of vegetable matter4 ,a clover sod is particularly desirable for this as well as for other fruits4 ,for a commercial orchard1 most varieties should be from #ce to #dj feet apart2 but the slow-growing and long-lived sorts may be at #dj feet1 and1 halfway between in both directions1 some of the short-lived1 early-bearing varieties may be placed1 to be removed after they begin to crowd4 ,in home grounds the trees may be placed somewhat closer than #ce to #dj feet1 especially if they are planted on the boundaries1 so that the limbs may project freely in one direction4 ,it is ordinarily advisable1 especially in the humid climates east of the ,great ,lakes1 to have the body of the tree #c-a_/b to #d-a_/b feet long4 ,the limbs should be trimmed up to this point when the tree is set4 ,from three to five main branches may be left to form the framework of the top4 ,these should be shortened back one-fourth or one-half when the tree is set4 7,figs4 #adb-ade7 ,subsequent pruning should keep the top of the tree open and maintain it in more or less symmetrical form4 ,west of the ,great ,lakes1 particularly on the plains and in the semi-arid regions1 the top may be started much nearer the ground4 ,in orchard conditions1 the trees should be kept in clean culture1 especially for the first few years2 but this is not always possible in home yards4 ,in lieu of tillage1 the sward may be mulched each fall with stable manure1 and commercial fertilizer may be applied each fall or spring4 ,if fruit is wanted rather than foliage and shade1 care should be taken not to make ground too rich1 but to keep it in such condition that the tree is making a fairly vigorous growth1 with good strong foliage1 but is not overgrowing4 ,an apple tree in full bearing is usually in good condition if the twigs grow #aj to #ah inches each season4 ,apple trees should begin to bear when three to five years planted1 and at ten years should be bearing good crops4 ,with good treatment1 they should continue to bear for thirty or more years in the northeastern states4 ,,xxi4 ,the king of fruits4 ,newtown as grown in the ,pacific country4 ,,xxi4 ,the king of fruits4 ,newtown as grown in the ,pacific country4 ,insects and diseases of the apple4 ,among the insects most commonly found on the apple tree are the codlin-moth1 canker-worm1 and tent-caterpillar4 ,the codlin-moth lays its egg on the fruit soon after the blossoms fall1 and the larvae1 on hatching1 eat their way inside4 ,a thorough spraying of the trees with arsenites within a week after the blossoms fall will do much toward destroying them2 and a second application1 in about three weeks1 will be essential4 ,the canker-worm 7,fig4 #bag7 and tent-caterpillars feed on the leaves1 and can also be destroyed by means of arsenites4 ,to be effective against the former1 however1 the applications must be made soon after they hatch1 and very thoroughly4 ,a close watch should be kept for borers4 ,whenever the bark appears to be dead or sunken in patches1 remove it and search for the cause4 ,a borer will usually be found underneath the bark4 ,about the base of the tree the most serious injury occurs from borers1 since the insect which enters there bores into the hard wood4 ,his presence can be determined by the chips that are cast from his burrows4 ,if the trees are well cultivated and in a thrifty growing condition1 the injury will be greatly reduced4 ,it will be well to wash the trunks and larger branches with soft soap1 thinned with water so that it can be applied with a brush or broom1 during the spring4 ,the addition of an ounce of ,paris green in each five gallons of the wash will be of value4 ,the only real remedy1 however1 is to dig the borers out4 ,the most troublesome disease of the apple is the apple-scab1 which disfigures the fruit as well as lessens its size4 ,it also often does much harm to the foliage1 and thus checks the growth of the trees 7,fig4 #bad74 ,the ,baldwin1 ,fameuse1 ,northern ,spy and ,red ,canada are particularly subject to this disease1 and it is much more troublesome in moist seasons than when the weather is dry4 ,the use of fungicides will do much to lessen the injury from this disease4 ,varieties of apple4 ,the selection of varieties of apples for home use is1 to a large extent1 a personal matter2 and no one may say what to plant4 ,a variety that is successfully grown in one section may prove disappointing in another4 ,one should study the locality in which he wishes to plant and choose those varieties which are the most successfully grown there1--choosing from amongst the successful kinds those which he likes best and which seem best to meet the purposes for which he is to grow them4 ,for the northern and eastern states1 the following varieties will generally be found valuable3-- ,the varieties marked with 99 are particularly valuable for market purposes as well as for home use2 the others are chiefly desirable for home use4 ,early4--,yellow ,transparent1 ,early ,harvest1 ,early ,strawberry1 ,primate1 ,dyer1 ,summer ,rose1 ,early ,joe1 ,red ,astrachan1 ,golden ,sweet1 ,oldenburg199 ,summer ,pearmain1 ,williams 7,favorite71 ,chenango1 ,bough 7,sweet71 ,summer ,queen1 ,gravenstein199 ,jefferis1 ,porter1 ,maiden ,blush4 ,autumn4--,bailey 7,sweet71 ,fameuse199 ,jersey ,sweet1 ,fall ,pippin1 ,wealthy199 ,mother1 ,twenty ,ounce1 ,magnate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bga4 ,the ,jonathan4 ,winter4--,jonathan99 7,fig4 #bga71 ,hubbardston199 ,grimes199 ,tompkins ,king199 ,wagener99 7,fig4 #bgb71 ,baldwin199 ,yellow ,bellflower1 ,tolman 7,sweet71 ,northern ,spy199 ,red ,canada199 ,roxbury1 ,mc,intosh199 ,yellow ,newtown 7,plate ,,xxi71 ,golden ,russet1 ,belmont1 ,melon1 ,lady1 ,rambo1 ,york ,imperial1 ,pomme ,gris1 ,esopus 7,spitzenburgh71 ,swaar1 ,peck 7,pleasant71 ,rhode ,island ,greening1 ,sutton1 ,delicious1 ,stayman ,winesap1 ,westfield 7,seek-no-further74 ,for the ,south and ,southwest the varieties named in the following list are of value3-- ,early4--,red ,june1 ,yellow ,transparent1 ,red ,astrachan1 ,summer ,queen1 ,benoni1 ,oldenburg1 ,gravenstein1 ,maiden ,blush1 ,earlyripe199 ,williams199 ,early ,cooper199 ,horse4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgb4 ,the ,wagener4 ,autumn4--,haas1 ,late ,strawberry1 ,oconee1 ,rambo1 ,peck 7,peck ,pleasant71 ,carter ,blue1 ,bonum199 ,smokehouse199 ,hoover4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgc4 ,pewaukee ,apple4 ,winter4--,shockley1 ,rome ,beauty199 ,smith ,cider1 ,grimes1 ,buckingham1 ,jonathan199 ,winesap1 ,kinnard1 ,york ,imperial1 ,gilpiri 7,romanite71 ,ralls 7,genet71 ,limbertwig1 ,royal ,lumbertwig1 ,stayman ,winesap199 ,milam1 ,virginia ,beauty199 ,terry199 ,ingram499 ,in the ,northwest only such varieties as are extremely hardy will be satisfactory1 and among those likely to succeed we may mention3-- ,early4--,yellow ,transparent1 ,tetofski1 ,oldenburg499 ,autumn4--,fameuse1 ,longfield1 ,wealthy1 ,mc,mahan199 ,mc,intosh199 ,shiawassee4 ,winter4--,wolf ,river199 ,hibernal1 ,northwestern 7,greening71 ,pewaukee 7,fig4 #bgc71 ,switzer1 ,golden ,russet1 ,patten 7,greening7499 ,apricot4--,this fruit is not often seen in home gardens in the ,east1 although it deserves to be better known4 ,when grown at all1 it is likely to be trained on walls1 after the ,english custom4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgd4 ,roman ,apricot4 ,in the latitude of ,new ,york1 the apricot has proved as hardy as the peach4 ,given the right conditions as to soil and exposure1 it will yield abundant crops1 ripening its fruits about three weeks in advance of early peaches4 ,the apricot usually thrives best on strong land2 but otherwise the treatment given the peach suits it very well4 ,the soil should be rather dry2 especially should the subsoil be such that no water may stand around the roots4 ,the exposure should be to the north or west to retard the blooming period1 as the one great drawback to the successful fruiting is the early blooming and subsequent freezing of the flowers or the small fruits4 ,the two serious difficulties in the growing of apricots are the ravages of the curculio1 and the danger to the flowers from the spring frosts4 ,it is usually almost impossible to secure fruits from one or two isolated apricot trees1 because the curculios will take them all4 ,it is possible1 also1 that some of the varieties need cross-pollination4 ,among the best kinds of apricots are ,montgamet1 ,jackson1 ,royal1 ,st4 ,ambroise1 ,early ,golden1 ,harris1 ,roman 7,fig4 #bgd7 and ,moorpark4 ,in the ,east1 apricots are commonly worked on plums1 but they also thrive on the peach4 ,the introduction of the ,russian varieties1 a few years ago1 added to the list several desirable kinds that have proved hardier and a little later in blooming than the old kinds4 ,the fruits of the ,russian varieties1 while not as large as the other varieties1 fully equal many of them in flavor1 and they are very productive4 ,they bear more profusely and with less care than the old-fashioned and larger kinds4 ,blackberry4--,in a general way1 the planting and care of a blackberry plantation is the same as required by raspberries4 ,from the fact that they ripen later in the season1 when droughts are most common1 even greater attention should be given to placing them in land that is retentive of moisture1 and to providing an efficient mulch1 which can generally best be secured with a cultivator4 ,the smaller-growing kinds 7as ,early ,harvest and ,wilson7 may be planted #d x #g ft41 the rank-growing varieties 7as ,snyder7 #f x #h ft4 ,thorough cultivation through-out the season will help in a material degree to hold the moisture necessary to perfect a good crop4 ,the soil should be cultivated very shallow1 however1 so as not to disturb the roots1 as the breaking of the roots starts a large number of suckers that have to be cut out and destroyed4 ,while hill culture 7as recommended above7 is desirable for the garden1 commercial growers generally use continuous rows4 ,blackberries1 like dewberries and raspberries1 bear but one crop on the cane4 ,that is1 canes which spring up this year bear next year4 ,from #c to #f canes are sufficient to be left in each hill4 ,the superfluous ones are thinned out soon after they start from the ground4 ,the old canes should be cut out soon after fruiting1 and burned4 ,the new shoots should be pinched back at the height of #b or #c ft4 if the plants are to support themselves4 ,if to be fastened to wires1 they may be allowed to grow throughout the season and be cut back when tied to the wires in winter or early spring4 ,blackberry plants are sometimes laid down in cold climates1--the tops being bent over and held to the ground by earth or sods thrown on their tips 7,fig4 #aee74 ,the most troublesome disease of the blackberry is orange rust 7conspicuous on the under sides of the leaves71 which often proves very destructive1 particularly to ,kittatinny and a few other sorts4 ,there is no remedy1 and on the first appearance of the disease the infected plants should be dug up and burned4 ,varieties of blackberries4 ,many of the better varieties of blackberries are lacking in hardiness1 and cannot be grown except in the more favorable localities4 ,snyder and ,taylor are most generally successful1 although ,wilson and ,early ,harvest are often grown on a large scale for market1 and do well with winter protection4 ,eldorado is much like ,snyder1 that seems hardy and productive4 ,erie1 ,minnewaski1 ,kittatinny1 and ,early ,king are in many sections large and valuable sorts4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bge4 ,sour or pie cherries4 ,cherry4--,of cherries there are two common types1 the sweet cherries and the sour cherries4 ,the sweet cherries are larger and taller-growing trees4 ,they comprise the varieties known as the hearts1 bigarreaus1 and dukes4 ,the sour cherries 7,fig4 #bge7 include the various kinds of morellos and pie cherries1 and these usually ripen after the sweet cherries4 ,the sour cherries make low1 round-headed trees4 ,the fruits are extensively used for canning4 ,sour cherries thrive well on clay loams4 ,the sour cherry should be planted #ah by #ah ft4 apart1 in well-prepared1 under-drained soil4 ,the trees may be slightly trimmed back each year1 keeping the head low and bushy4 ,the sweet cherries have proved disappointing in many instances from the rotting of the fruit4 ,this may never be entirely avoided1 but good cultivation1 soil not too rich in nitrogen1 attention to spraying1 and picking the fruit when dry1 will lessen the loss very much4 ,in years of severe rotting the fruit should be picked before it becomes fully ripe1 placed in a cool1 airy room and allowed to color4 ,it will be nearly as well flavored as if left on the tree2 and1 as the fungus usually attacks only the ripe fruit1 a considerable part of the crop may be saved4 ,set the trees #be or #cj ft4 apart4 ,only very well-drained land should be devoted to sweet cherries1 preferably one of a somewhat gravelly nature4 ,leaf-blight is readily controlled by timely spraying with bordeaux mixture4 ,the curculio or fruit worm may be controlled by jarring1 as for plums1 or by spraying4 ,the jarring process is seldom employed with cherries for the curculio1 inasmuch as the poison spray seems1 for some reason1 to be particularly effective on these fruits4 ,varieties of cherry4 ,of the sour varieties1 ,may ,duke 7,fig4 #cf71 ,richmond1 ,dyehouse1 ,montmorency1 ,ostheim1 ,hortense 7,fig4 #cd71 ,late ,kentish1 ,suda1 and ,morello 7,english ,morello7 7,fig4 #ce7 are the most valuable4 ,the following sweet varieties are of value where they succeed3 ,rockport1 7,yellow7 ,spanish1 ,elton1 7,governor7 ,wood1 ,coe1 ,windsor1 7,black7 ,tartarian1 and ,downer4 ,cranberry4--,the growing of cranberries in artificial bogs is an ,american industry4 ,the common large cranberry of markets is also a peculiarly ,american fruit1 since it is unknown in other countries except as the fruit is shipped there4 ,cranberries are grown in bogs1 which may be flooded4 ,the whole area is kept under water during the winter time1 largely to prevent the plants from winter injury by the heaving and freezing and thawing of the bogs4 ,flooding is also employed at intervals for the purpose of drowning out insects1 mitigating drought1 and protecting against frost and fires4 ,the ordinary practice is to choose a bog which has a creek running through it1 or through which some creek or ditch may be diverted4 ,at the lower side of the bog flood-gates are provided1 so that when the gates are shut1 the water backs up and floods the area4 ,it is best that the bog be comparatively flat1 so that the water will be of approximately equal depth over the whole area4 ,at the shallowest places the water should stand about a foot above the plants4 ,the water is usually let on the bog early in ,december and kept on until ,april or early ,may4 ,no flooding is done during the rest of the year unless there is some particular occasion therefor4 ,all the wild and turfy growth should be taken off the bog before the vines are set4 ,this is done either by digging it off and removing it bodily1 or by drowning it out by means of a year's flooding4 ,the former method is generally considered to be the better4 ,after the turfy growth is removed1 the bog is smoothed1 and covered #b or #c in4 deep with clean sand4 ,the vines are now set1 the lower ends of them being shoved through the sand into the richer earth4 ,in order to prevent a too rapid and tangled growth of vine1 it is customary to resand the bog every three or four years to a depth of one-fourth or one-half inch4 ,when sanding is not practicable1 the vines may be mown off when they become too luxuriant4 ,the plants for setting are merely cuttings or branches of the vines4 ,these cuttings may be #e to #aj inches long4 ,they are inserted into the ground in a hole made by a crowbar or stick4 ,they are usually planted at distances of #ab to #ah inches each way1 and the vines are allowed to cover the entire ground as with a mat4 ,in three years a good crop should be secured1 if the weeds and wild growth are kept down4 ,a crop ranges between #ej to #ajj barrels per acre4 ,currant4--,as the currant is one of the hardiest and most productive of fruits in the ,north1 so is it often neglected1 the patch allowed to become foul with grass1 never thinned or trimmed1 the worms eating the leaves until1 in the course of time1 the plants weaken and die4 ,along the fence is no place to plant currants1 or1 indeed1 any other fruit2 plant out in the open1 at least #e feet from anything that will interfere with cultivation4 ,no fruit crop will respond more readily to good care than the currant4 ,clean cultivation and a liberal use of manure or fertilizers will certainly be followed by well-paying crops4 ,one-or two-year-old plants may be set1 #d by #f feet4 ,trim the bush by cutting off most of the suckers below the surface of the ground4 ,the currant should have cool moist soil4 ,if the season is dry1 a mulch of straw or leaves will assist the plants to establish themselves4 ,currants are easily propagated by mature cuttings of the new or previous year's canes4 ,the red and white currants bear mostly on two-year-old or older wood4 ,a succession of young shoots should be allowed to grow to take the place of the old bearing wood4 ,cut out the canes as they grow older4 ,the partial shade afforded by a young orchard suits the currant well1 and if the ground is in good condition1 no bad results will follow to the orchard1 provided the currants are removed before the trees need the entire feeding space4 ,a currant patch should continue in good bearing for #aj to #bj years1 if properly handled4 ,one very important point is to keep the old1 weak canes cut out1 and a succession of two to four new ones coming from the root each year4 ,to combat the currant worm1 spray thoroughly with ,paris green to kill the first brood1 just as soon as holes can be seen in the lower leaves--usually before the plants are in bloom4 ,for the second brood1 if it appear1 spray with white hellebore 7p4 #bjc74 ,for borers1 cut out and burn the affected canes4 ,varieties of currants4 ,in most sections the ,red ,dutch will be found to be the most satisfactory variety1 as the plants are much less injured by borers than are ,cherry 7,plate ,,xxiii71 ,fay1 and ,versailles1 which are larger and better varieties1 and are to be preferred in sections where the borers are not troublesome4 ,victoria is a valuable market sort where borers are numerous1 as it is little injured by them4 ,the same is also true of 7,prince7 ,albert1 which is little attacked by currant worms and is particularly valuable as a late sort4 ,white ,dutch and ,white ,grape are valuable light-colored varieties1 and 7,black7 ,naples as a variety for jelly4 ,london 7,london ,market7 is also proving to be satisfactory in some sections4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgf4 ,lucretia dewberry4 ,dewberry4--,the dewberry may be called an early trailing blackberry4 ,the culture is very simple4 ,support should be given to the canes1 as they are very slender and rank growers4 ,a wire trellis or large-meshed fence-wire answers admirably2 or 7and this is the better general method7 they may be tied to stakes4 ,the fruits are large and showy1 which1 combined with their earliness1 makes them desirable2 but they are usually deficient in flavor4 ,the ,lucretia 7,fig4 #bgf7 is the leading variety4 ,lay the canes on the ground in winter4 ,in the spring tie all the canes from each plant to a stake4 ,after fruiting1 cut the old canes and burn them 7as for blackberries74 ,in the meantime1 the young canes 7for next year's fruiting7 are growing4 ,these may be tied up as they grow1 to be out of the way of the cultivator4 ,dewberries are one to two weeks earlier than blackberries4 ,fig4--,the fig is little grown in the ,east except as a curiosity1 but on the ,pacific coast it has gained considerable prominence as an orchard fruit4 ,figs will stand considerable frost1 and seedling or inferior varieties grow out-of-doors without protection as far north as ,virginia4 ,many of the varieties fruit on young sprouts1 and1 inasmuch as the roots will stand considerable cold1 these varieties will often give a few figs in the northern states4 ,figs have been fruited in the open ground in ,michigan4 ,in regions having ten degrees of frost1 the fig should be laid down in winter4 ,for this purpose the plants are pruned to branch from the ground1 and the soft tops are bent to the surface and covered with earth4 ,in commercial cultivation1 fig trees grow large1 and they stand #ah to #be feet apart2 but in gardens where they are to be bent over1 they are to be kept as bushes4 ,adriatic is the most commonly grown white fig4 ,among the other varieties are ,california ,black or ,mission ,fig1 ,brown ,ischia1 ,brown ,turkey1 ,white ,ischia1 and ,celeste 7,celestial74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgg4 ,one of the ,english-,american gooseberries4 ,gooseberry4--,the gooseberry differs little from the currant in its requirements as to soil1 pruning1 and general care4 ,the plants should be set #c to #d feet apart2 rows #e to #g feet apart4 ,select a rich1 rather moist soil4 ,the tops need no winter protection4 ,if mildew and worms are to be kept in check1 spraying must be begun with the very first sign of trouble and be thoroughly done4 ,the propagation of the gooseberry is similar to that of the currant1 although the practice of earthing up a whole plant1 causing every branch thus covered to throw out roots1 is practiced with the ,european varieties4 ,the rooted branches are cut off the following spring and planted in nursery rows or sometimes directly in the field4 ,in order to succeed with this method1 the plant should have been cut back to the ground so that all the shoots are yearling4 ,since the advent of the practice of spraying with fungicides to prevent mildew1 the culture of the gooseberry has increased4 ,there is now no reason why1 with a little care1 good crops of many of the best ,english varieties may not be grown4 ,a large part of the gooseberry crop is picked green for culinary purposes4 ,several of the ,english varieties and their derivatives have proved of value1 having larger fruits than the natives 7,fig4 #bgg74 ,varieties of gooseberries4 ,for ordinary use the ,downing can generally be recommended4 ,it is hardy1 productive1 of fair size1 and greenish white in color4 ,houghton is even more hardy and productive1 but the fruit is rather small and of a dark red color4 ,among the varieties of ,european origin that can be successfully grown1 if the mildew can be prevented1 are ,industry1 ,triumph1 ,keepsake1 ,lancashire ,lad1 and ,golden ,prolific4 ,among other varieties that are promising are ,champion1 ,columbus1 ,chautauqua1 and ,josselyn 7,red ,jacket74 ,grape4--,one of the surest of fruit crops is the grape1 a crop each year being reasonably certain after the third year from the time of setting the vines2 and the good amateur kinds are numerous4 ,the grape does well on any soil that is under good cultivation and well drained4 ,a soil with considerable clay is better under these circumstances than a light1 sandy loam4 ,the exposure should be to the sun2 and the place should admit of cultivation on all sides4 ,for planting1 #a-or #b-year-old vines should be used1 being set either in the fall or early spring4 ,at planting1 the vine is cut back to #c or #d eyes1 and the roots are well shortened in4 ,the hole in which the plant is to be set should be large enough to allow a full spreading of the roots4 ,if the season should be dry1 a mulch of coarse litter may be spread around the vine4 ,if all the buds start1 the strongest one or two may be allowed to grow4 ,the canes arising from these buds should be staked and allowed to grow through the season2 or in large plantations the first-year canes may be allowed to lie on the ground4 ,the second year one cane should be cut back to the same number of eyes as the first year4 ,after growth begins in the spring1 two of the strongest buds should be allowed to remain4 ,these two canes now arising may be grown to a single stake through the second summer1 or they may be spread horizontally on a trellis4 ,these are the canes that form the permanent arms or parts of the vine4 ,from them start the upright shoots which1 in succeeding years1 are to bear the fruits4 ,in order to understand the pruning of grapes1 the operator must fully grasp this principle3 ,fruit is borne on wood of the present season1 which arises from wood of the previous season4 ,to illustrate3 ,a growing shoot1 or cane1 of #aiji makes buds4 ,in #aiaj a shoot arises from each bud2 and near the base of these shoots the grapes are borne 7#a to #d clusters on each74 ,while every bud on the #aiji shoot may produce shoots or canes in #aiaj1 only the strongest of these new canes will bear fruit4 ,the skilled grape-grower can tell by the looks of his cane 7as he prunes it in winter7 which buds will give rise to the grape-producing wood the following season4 ,the larger and stronger buds usually give best results2 but if the cane itself is very big and stout1 or if it is very weak and slender1 he does not expect good results from any of its buds4 ,a hard1 well-ripened cane the diameter of a man's little finger is the ideal size4 ,another principle to be mastered is this3 ,a vine should bear only a limited number of clusters1--say from #cj to #hj4 ,a shoot bears clusters near its base2 beyond these clusters the shoot grows on into a long1 leafy cane4 ,an average of two clusters may be reckoned to a shoot4 ,if the vine is strong enough to bear #fj clusters1 #cj good buds must be left at the pruning 7which is done from ,december to late ,february74 ,the essential operation of pruning a grape vine1 therefore1 is each year to cut back a limited number of good canes to a few buds1 and to cut off entirely all the remaining canes or wood of the previous season's growth4 ,if a cane is cut back to #b or #c buds1 the stub-like part which remains is called a spur4 ,present systems1 however1 cut each cane back to #h or #aj buds 7on strong varieties71 and #c or #d canes are left1--all radiating from near the head or trunk of the vine4 ,the top of the vine does not grow bigger from year to year1 after it has once covered the trellis1 but is cut back to practically the same number of buds each year4 ,since these buds are on new wood1 it is evident that they are each year farther and farther removed from the head of the vine4 ,in order to obviate this difficulty1 new canes are taken out each year or two from near the head of the vine1 and the #b-year-or #c-year-old wood is cut away4 ,the training of grapes is a different matter4 ,a dozen different systems of training may be practiced on the same trellis and from the same style of pruning1--for training is only the disposition or arrangement of the parts4 ,on arbors1 it is best to carry one permanent arm or trunk from each root over the framework to the peak4 ,each year the canes are cut back to short spurs 7of #b or #c buds7 along the sides of this trunk4 ,grapes are set from #f to #h feet apart in rows which are #h to #aj feet apart4 ,a trellis made of #b or #c wires is the best support4 ,slat trellises catch too much wind and blow down4 ,avoid stimulating manures4 ,in very cold climates1 the vines may be taken off the trellis in early winter and laid on the ground and lightly covered with earth4 ,along the boundaries of home lots1 where grapes are often planted1 little is to be expected in the way of fruit because the ground is not well tilled4 ,the grape is subject to many insects and diseases1 some of which are very destructive4 ,the black-rot is the most usual trouble4 ,see p4 #bji4 ,to produce bunches of high quality and free from rot and frost injury1 grapes are sometimes bagged4 ,when the grapes are about half grown1 the bunch is covered with a grocer's manila bag4 ,the bags remain until the fruit is ripe4 ,the grapes usually mature earlier in the bags4 ,the top of the bag is split1 and the flaps are secured over the branch with a pin2 ,figs4 #bgh1 #bgi1 #bhj explain the operation4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgh ,bag ready to be applied4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bgi ,the second stage in adjusting the bag4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhj ,the bagging complete4 ,in all the above discussion1 the so-called native grapes alone are considered4 ,in ,california1 the ,european or vinifera types are grown1 the requirements of which are radically different from those of the eastern kinds4 ,,xxii4 ,wall-training of a pear tree4 ,,xxii4 ,wall-training of a pear tree4 ,varieties of grapes4 ,under nearly all conditions1 the ,concord will be a valuable black variety1 although ,worden1 which is a few days earlier1 may be preferred by many4 ,moore 7,moore ,early7 has been our best very early black variety1 but is likely to be superseded by ,campbell1 which is a stronger vine1 more productive1 bunches larger1 fruit of better quality1 and of superior keeping qualities1 making it valuable for shipping purposes4 ,catawba1 ,delaware1 and ,brighton are among the best red varieties1 although ,agawam and ,salem are much used4 ,winchell 7,green ,mountain7 is the best early white variety1 and in most sections ,niagara1 a late white sort1 does well4 ,diamond 7,moore ,diamond7 is a white grape of better quality than ,niagara4 ,grapes under glass 7,s4,w4 ,fletcher74 ,the ,european grapes rarely thrive out of doors in eastern ,america4 ,grape houses are necessary1 with or without artificial heat4 ,fruit for home use may be grown very satisfactorily in a cold grapery 7without artificial heat74 ,a simple lean-to against the south side of a building or wall is cheap and serviceable4 ,when a separate building is desired1 an even-span house running north and south is preferable4 ,there is no advantage in having a curved roof1 except as a matter of looks4 ,a compost of four parts rotted turf to one of manure is laid on a sloping cement bottom outside the house1 making a border #ab feet wide and #b feet deep4 ,the cement may be replaced with rubble on well-drained soils1 but it is a poor makeshift4 ,every three years the upper #f inches of the border should be renewed with manure4 ,the border inside the house is prepared likewise4 ,two-year-old potted vines are planted about #d feet apart in a single row4 ,part of the roots go through a crevice in the wall to the outer border and part remain inside2 or all may go outside if the house is desired for other purposes4 ,one strong cane is trained to a wire trellis hanging at least #ah inches from the glass1 and is cut back to #c feet the first year1 #f the second1 and #i the third4 ,do not be in a hurry to get a long cane4 ,pruning is on the spur system1 as recommended for arbors on p4 #dcj4 ,the vines are usually laid on the ground for winter and covered with leaves or wrapped with cloth4 ,as soon as the buds swell in early spring1 tie the vines to the trellis and start out one shoot from each spur1 rubbing off all others4 ,after the berries begin to color1 however1 it is better to leave all further growth to shade the fruit4 ,pinch back each of these laterals two joints beyond the second bunch4 ,to keep down red spider and thrips1 the foliage should be sprayed with water every bright morning except during the blooming season4 ,at least one-third of the berries should be thinned from each bunch2 do not be afraid of taking out too many4 ,water the inside border frequently all through the summer1 and the outside occasionally if the season is dry4 ,mildew may appear in ,july4 ,the best preventives are to syringe faithfully1 admit air freely1 and sprinkle sulfur on the ground4 ,fruit may be kept fresh on the vines in a warm 7or artificially heated7 grapery until late ,december2 in a coldhouse it must be picked before frost4 ,after the fruit is off1 ventilate from top and bottom and withhold water1 so as thoroughly to ripen the wood4 ,along in ,november the canes are pruned1 covered with straw or wrapped with mats and laid down till spring4 ,black ,hamburg is superior to all other varieties for a cold grapery2 ,bowood ,muscat1 ,muscat of ,alexandria1 and ,chasselas ,musque may be added in the warmhouse4 ,good vines will live and bear almost indefinitely4 ,mulberry4--,both for fruit and ornament the mulberry should be more generally planted4 ,even if the fruit is not to the taste1 the tree is naturally open-centered and round-headed1 and is an interesting subject2 some of the varieties have finely cut leaves4 ,the fruits are in great demand by the birds1 and after they begin to ripen the strawberry beds and cherry trees are freer from robins and other fruit-eating birds4 ,for this reason alone they are a valuable tree for the fruit-grower4 ,trees may be purchased cheaper than one can propagate them4 ,if planted in orchard form1 place them #be to #cj feet apart4 ,about the borders of a place they can go closer4 ,the ,russian varieties are often planted for windbreaks1 for they are very hardy and thrive under the greatest neglect2 and for this purpose they may be planted #h to #bj feet apart4 ,the ,russians make excellent screens4 ,they stand clipping well4 ,the fruit of the ,russians varies in quality1 as the trees are usually directly from seed2 but now and then a tree bears excellent fruit4 ,new ,american1 ,trowbridge1 and ,thorburn are leading kinds of fruit-bearing mulberries for the ,north4 ,the true ,downing is not hardy in the northern states2 but ,new ,american is often sold under this name4 ,mulberries thrive in any good soil1 and need no special treatment4 ,nuts4--,the nut trees demand too much room for most home-ground fruit plantations1 although they are also useful for windbreaks and shade4 ,the hickories1 all ,american1 make excellent lawn trees1 and should be better known4 ,the filberts and cobnuts1 small trees or bushes1 are not successfully grown in this country except in very special cases4 ,the commercial nut-growing in the ,united ,states and ,canada is chiefly of almonds1 walnuts1 and pecans1 with some attempt at chestnuts4 ,of these the chestnut is the most adaptable for home places in the northeastern section4 ,of chestnuts there are three types in cultivation3 the ,european1 the ,japanese1 and the ,american4 ,the ,american1 or native chestnuts1 of which there are several improved varieties1 are the hardiest and most reliable1 and the nuts are the sweetest1 but they are also the smallest4 ,the ,japanese varieties are usually injured by the winter in central ,new ,york4 ,the ,european varieties are somewhat hardier1 and some of the varieties will thrive in the northern states4 ,chestnuts are very easily grown1 although the bark disease now threatens them4 ,they usually bear better when two or more trees are planted near each other4 ,sprouts in old chestnut clearings are often allowed to remain1 and sometimes they are grafted to the improved varieties4 ,the young trees may be grafted in the spring by the whip-graft or cleft-graft method2 but the cions should be perfectly dormant1 and the operation should be very carefully done4 ,even with the best workmanship1 a considerable percentage of the grafts are likely to fail or to break off after two or three years4 ,the most popular single variety of chestnut is the ,paragon1 which bears large and excellent nuts when the tree is very young4 ,when the home ground is large enough1 two or three of these trees should be planted near the borders4 ,orange4--,oranges are grown extensively in ,florida1 in places along the ,gulf1 and in many parts of ,california1 but in the most favored sections there is occasionally some injury from cold or frost to the trees or fruit4 ,the soil preferred for oranges in ,california is a rich1 deep alluvium1 avoiding hard-pan or adobe subsoils4 ,stagnant water in the subsoil is a fatal defect4 ,although they can be grown near the ocean at a lower level1 an elevation of #fjj to #abjj feet is generally desirable4 ,while southern ,california is particularly adapted to orange culture1 the fruit is successfully raised along the foot-hills of the ,san ,joaquin and ,sacramento valleys and in other parts of the state4 ,in ,florida1 pine lands with a clay subsoil are generally preferred for oranges1 but if properly handled1 good results can be obtained from hammock land4 ,as elevated spots cannot be secured1 a timber belt surrounding the orchard or along the north and west sides is desirable4 ,the distance for the large-growing kinds of orange in the orchard is from #be to #cj feet each way1 but the half-dwarf kinds1 such as ,bahia or ,washington ,navel1 may be as close as #bj feet each way1 although #be feet will be desirable4 ,if the roots are sacked1 the trees should be placed in the hole without removing the covering1 and the soil should then be packed about them2 but if they are puddled1 a mound should be made in the bottom of the hole4 ,in the center an opening should be made into which the tap-root can be inserted4 ,after the soil has been firmly packed about it1 the other roots should be spread out and the hole filled with good soil1 packing it carefully4 ,care should be taken that the roots are not exposed in handling the trees1 and if the weather is hot and dry1 the tops should be shaded4 ,water may often be used with good results in settling the soil about the roots4 ,when transplanted1 the tops should be cut back in proportion to the amount of roots lost in digging the trees4 ,the head is usually started with the branches about #b feet from the ground4 ,each year while the trees are small1 the strong shoots should be cut back to preserve a symmetrical form and the weak and surplus shoots should be removed4 ,the cultivation of orange orchards should be the same as recommended for other fruits1 except that as they grow in hot1 dry climates1 it should be even more thorough1 that the evaporation of moisture from the soil may be reduced to a minimum4 ,california growers have found that by frequent shallow cultivation they can reduce the amount of water that must be applied by irrigation1 and that frequent tillage and a little water will give better results than little or no cultivation and a large amount of water4 ,the amount of water required will also depend on the season and the character of the soil4 ,thus on strong soils and after a heavy rainfall no irrigation will be required1 while sandy soils will need irrigating as often as once in three or four weeks from ,may to ,october4 ,as a general rule1 two or three irrigations in a season will be ample4 ,when used at all1 water should be applied in sufficient quantities to wet down to the roots of the trees4 ,frequent scanty waterings may do much harm4 ,the water is usually applied in furrows1 and for young trees there should be one on either side of each row1 but as the roots extend the number should be increased1 until when five or six years old the entire orchard should be irrigated from furrows #d or #e feet apart4 ,in ,florida1 irrigation is not practiced4 ,cover-cropping in winter is now common in ,florida and ,california1 some of the leguminous crops being used4 ,varieties of the orange4 ,among the best varieties are3 ,bahia1 commonly known as ,washington ,navel1 ,thompson ,improved1 ,maltese ,blood1 ,mediterranean ,sweet1 ,paper ,rind ,st4 ,michael1 and ,valencia4 ,homosassa1 ,magnum ,bonum1 ,nonpareil1 ,boone1 ,parson ,brown1 ,pineapple1 and ,hart are favorites in ,florida4 ,the tangerines and mandarins1 or the 8kid-glove0 oranges1 have a thin rind that is easily detached from the rather dry pulp4 ,orange trees are frequently injured by various scale insects1 but for several of the most troublesome kinds1 insect parasites have been found that keep them partially or wholly in check1 and for others the trees are sprayed1 or fumigated with hydrocyanic acid gas4 ,peach4--,given the proper exposure1 peaches may be fruited in many sections where now it is thought impossible to have a crop4 ,it is usually the practice of the amateur to set peach trees in the shelter of some building1 exposed on the south or east to the sun1 and 8in a pocket0 as regards winds4 ,this should be reversed1 except in the close vicinity of large bodies of water4 ,the fruit-buds of peaches will stand very cold weather when perfectly dormant1 often as low as #ab or #ah below zero in ,new ,york2 but if the buds once become swollen1 comparatively light freezing will destroy the crop4 ,therefore1 if the trees be set on elevations where a constant air drainage may be obtained1 sheltered1 if at all1 on the south and east from the warming influence of the sun1 the buds will remain dormant until the ground becomes warm1 and the chances of a failure will be lessened4 ,this advice applies mostly to interior sections4 ,a well-drained1 sandy loam or gravelly soil suits the peach better than a heavy soil2 but if the heavier soil is well drained1 good crops may be secured4 ,peaches are short-lived at best1 and one should be satisfied with three or four crops from each tree4 ,they bear young1 usually a partial crop the third year4 ,if a crop may be had every other year until the trees are eight or ten years old1 they will have well repaid the effort of cultivation4 ,but they often bear twice this long4 ,young trees may be set every four or five years to replace older ones1 thus having trees at a bearing age at all times on a small place4 ,trees should be set #ad to #ah feet apart each way4 ,peach trees are always bought when they are one year old1 that is1 one year from the bud4 ,for example1 the bud is inserted in the fall of #aiji4 ,it remains dormant until the spring of #aiaj1 when it pushes into vigorous growth2 and in the fall of #aiaj the tree is ready for sale4 ,peach trees that are more than a year old are scarcely worth the buying4 ,it is a common practice1 when setting peach trees1 to prune them back to a whip1 leaving a stub bearing not more than one bud where each branch is cut off4 ,the three great enemies of the peach are the borer1 the yellows1 and the curculio4 ,the borer is best handled by digging it out every spring and fall4 ,trees attacked by the borer have an exudation of gum about the crown4 ,if the borers are dug out twice a year1 they will not get sufficient start to make the operation very laborious4 ,it is the only sure way4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bha4 ,seckel pear4 ,the yellows is a communicable disease1 the cause of which is not definitely known4 ,it shows itself in the fruit ripening prematurely1 with distinct red spots which extend through the flesh1 and later by the throwing out of fine1 branching1 twiggy tufts along the main branches 7,fig4 #bae74 ,the only treatment is to pull out the trees and burn them4 ,other trees may be set in the same places4 ,the curculio must be captured by jarring on sheets 7see ,plum74 ,varieties of the peach4 ,for home use it is advisable to provide varieties that will ripen in succession1 but for market purposes1 in most sections1 the medium and late kinds should be most extensively planted4 ,although there are many varieties that have a local reputation1 but are not commonly found in the nurseries1 the following kinds are well known1 and can be generally grown with success3 ,alexander1 ,hale ,early1 ,rivers1 ,st4 ,john1 ,bishop1 ,connett 7,southern ,early71 ,carman1 ,crawford 7,early and ,late71 ,oldmixon1 ,lewis1 ,champion1 ,sneed1 ,greensboro1 ,kalamazoo1 ,stump1 ,elberta1 ,ede 7,capt4 ,ede71 ,stevens 7,stevens' ,rareripe71 ,crosby1 ,gold ,drop1 ,reeves1 ,chairs1 ,smock1 ,salway1 and ,levy 7,henrietta74 ,pear4--,no fruit plantation should be considered complete without trees of various kinds of pears1 ripening fruits from early in ,august till winter4 ,the late varieties are generally good keepers1 and extend the season into ,february1 thus supplying fruit for six or seven months4 ,as the pear grows to perfection on quince1 the dwarf tree is peculiarly adapted to planting on small home grounds1 and is often used as a boundary plant1 or to serve the purpose of a screen4 ,these dwarf trees should be set deep--#d to #f inches below the union--to prevent the stock from growing4 ,dwarf trees may be set as near together as #aj to #af feet1 while the standard or tall-growing pears should be set #ah to #be feet apart4 ,trees are planted when two or three years old4 ,illustration ,fig4 #bhb4 ,duchesse d',angoulme pear4 ,illustration ,fig4 #bhc4 ,the ,kieffer pear4 ,the pear thrives on clay soil1 if well under-drained1 and for this reason may succeed in places where other fruits might fail4 ,a good1 steady growth should be maintained1 but the use of nitrogenous manures should be avoided1 as they tend to make a rank growth and invite attacks of pear blight1 which is the worst enemy of the pear 7p4 #baa74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhd4 ,kieffer pear4 ,varieties of the pear4 ,as a selection to supply a succession of varieties throughout the season1 the following list is recommended3-- ,early4--,summer ,doyenne1 ,bloodgood1 ,clapp1 ,osband1 ,elizabeth 7,manning's ,elizabeth74 ,autumn4--,bartlett1 ,boussock1 ,flemish 7,flemish ,beauty71 ,buffum1 ,howell1 ,seckel 7,fig4 #bha71 ,louise ,bonne1 ,angoulme 7,duchesse d',angoulme7 7,fig4 #bhb71 ,sheldon4 ,winter4--,anjou1 ,clairgeau1 ,lawrence1 ,kieffer 7,figs4 #bhc1 #bhd71 ,winter ,nelis1 and ,easter ,beurre4 ,for ordinary market purposes the following have been proved valuable3 ,bartlett1 ,howell1 ,anjou1 ,clairgeau1 and ,lawrence4 ,in the central and southern states1 ,kieffer is grown successfully4 ,for home use this variety is not to be recommended in the ,north1 because of its poor quality and smaller size4 ,for growing as dwarfs1 ,angoulme 7,duchesse d',angoulme71 ,louise ,bonne1 ,anjou1 ,clairgeau1 and ,lawrence are most popular1 but many other varieties thrive on the quince4 ,plum4--,of plums there are three general or common types3 first1 the common ,domestica or ,european plum1 which gives rise to all the older varieties1 like ,lombard1 ,bradshaw1 ,green ,gage1 the ,prunes1 the ,egg plums1 the ,damsons1 and the like2 second1 the ,japanese plums1 which have become popular within the last twenty years1 and which are adapted to a wider range of country than the ,domesticas2 third1 the native plums of several species or types1 which are adapted to the plains1 the middle and southern states1 and some kinds to the cold ,north4 ,wherever the ,domestica and ,japanese plums can be grown1 the native plums are not destined to become popular2 but many of the natives are much hardier than others1 and are therefore adapted to regions in which the ,domestica and ,japanese are not safe4 ,others of them are well adapted to the middle and southern states4 ,the ,domestica and ,japanese plums are considerably hardier than peaches1 but not so hardy as the apple4 ,the northern limit of their general cultivation is the southern peninsula of ,michigan1 central and southern ,ontario1 central ,new ,york1 and central ,new ,england4 ,plums thrive on a great variety of soils1 but they do better1 as a rule1 on those that are rather heavy and have a considerable content of clay4 ,in fact1 many of the varieties will thrive on clay as hard as that in which pears will grow4 ,on the other hand1 they often thrive well in light1 and even almost sandy soils4 ,the trees are set when they are two and three years from the bud4 ,it is preferable to have plum trees on stocks of the same species1 but it is not always possible to secure them at the nurseries4 ,in the ,south1 plums are worked mostly on peach roots1 and these make excellent trees where the climate is not too severe1 and especially on the lighter lands on which they are planted in the ,south4 ,in the ,north the larger part of the plum stocks are grown on the ,myrobalan plum roots4 ,this ,myrobalan is an ,old ,world species of plum1 of smaller growth than the ,domestica4 ,this stock1 therefore1 tends to dwarf the tree1 and it is also likely to throw up sprouts from the roots4 ,plum trees are set #ab to #ah feet apart4 ,many growers like to set them #h feet apart in rows1 and have the rows from #af to #bj feet apart4 ,plums are pruned much the same as apples and pears4 ,that is1 the top is thinned out from year to year1 and all superfluous branches and broken or diseased wood are removed4 ,if the soil is very strong and the trees are close together1 it may be well to head them in a little each year1 especially those varieties which grow very strong and robust4 ,pests and diseases4 ,there are four leading difficulties in the growing of plums--leaf-blight1 fruit-rot1 black-knot1 and curculio4 ,the leaf-blight usually appears about midsummer1 the leaves becoming spotted and dropping off4 ,the remedy is to spray thoroughly with bordeaux mixture1 beginning soon after the fruits have set1 and before the trouble begins to show4 ,the fruit-rot may be prevented by the same means--that is1 by spraying with bordeaux mixture4 ,it is usually best to begin just after the fruits are well set4 ,a very important consideration in the checking of this disease is to thin the fruit so that it does not hang in clusters4 ,if one fruit touches another1 the rot spreads from fruit to fruit in spite of the spraying4 ,some varieties1 as ,lombard and ,abundance1 are specially susceptible to this injury4 ,the black-knot is best kept in check by cutting out the knots whenever they can be seen1 and burning them4 ,as soon as the leaves drop1 the orchard should be gone over and all knots taken out4 ,orchards that are thoroughly sprayed with bordeaux mixture for the leaf-blight and fruit-rot fungus are less liable to attacks of black-knot4 ,the curculio1 or the insect which is the parent of the worms in the fruit1 is the inveterate enemy of the plum and other stone fruits4 ,the mature beetle lays the eggs in the fruits when they are very small1 usually beginning its work about as soon as the flowers fall4 ,these eggs soon hatch1 and the little maggot bores into the fruit4 ,those fruits that are attacked whilst very young ordinarily fall from the tree1 but those attacked when they are half or more grown1 may adhere to the tree1 but remain wormy and gummy at the picking time4 ,the mature beetles are sluggish in the mornings1 and are easily jarred from the trees4 ,taking advantage of this fact1 the fruit-grower may jar them on sheets2 or1 in large orchards1 into a large canvas hopper1 which is wheeled from tree to tree upon a wheelbarrow-like frame1 and under the apex of which is a tin can into which the insects roll4 ,there is a slit or opening in one side of the hopper1 which allows the tree to stand nearly in the middle of the canvas4 ,the operator then gives the tree two or three sharp jars with a padded pole or mallet4 ,the edges of the hopper are then quickly shaken with the hands and the insects roll down into the tin receptacle4 ,in this receptacle there is kerosene oil1 or it may be emptied from time to time4 ,just how long this machine is to be run in the orchard will depend entirely on circumstances4 ,it is advisable to use the catcher soon after the blossoms fall1 for the purpose of finding out how abundant the insects are4 ,if a few insects are caught from each tree1 there is indication that there are enough of the pests to make serious trouble4 ,if after a few days the insects seem to have disappeared1 it will not be necessary to continue the hunt4 ,in some years1 especially in those succeeding a very heavy crop1 it may be necessary to run the curculio-catcher every morning for four or five weeks2 but1 as a rule1 it will not be necessary to use it oftener than two or three times a week during that season2 and sometimes the season may be shortened by one half4 ,the insects fall most readily when the weather is cool1 and it is best1 therefore1 to get through the whole orchard1 if possible1 before noon4 ,on cloudy days1 however1 the insects may be caught all day4 ,a smart man can attend to #cjj or #djj full-bearing trees in six hours if the ground has been well rolled or firmed1 as it should be before the bugging operation begins4 ,the same treatment applies to the saving of peaches and rarely1 also1 of sour cherries4 ,varieties of the plum4 ,the following varieties of ,european origin will be found desirable for growing in the northern and eastern states3 ,bradshaw1 ,imperial ,gage1 ,lombard1 ,mc,laughlin1 ,pond1 ,quackenbos1 ,copper1 ,jefferson1 ,italian ,prune 7,fellenberg71 ,shropshire1 ,golden ,drop 7,coe ,golden ,drop71 ,bavay or ,reine ,claude1 ,grand ,duke1 ,monarch4 ,several of the ,japanese varieties are also well adapted to growing in these sections1 as well as in the states farther south4 ,the trees are generally hardy1 but they bloom early1 and are likely to be injured by late frosts in some localities4 ,among the better kinds are the ,red ,june1 ,abundance1 ,chabot1 ,burbank1 and ,satsuma4 ,few of the above sorts are hardy in the ,northwest1 and growers there have to rely on varieties of native species4 ,among these are3 ,forest ,garden1 ,wyant1 ,de ,soto1 ,rollingstone1 ,weaver1 ,quaker1 and ,hawkeye4 ,farther south still other classes of plums have been introduced1 among them being ,wildgoose1 ,clinton1 ,moreman1 ,miner1 and ,golden ,beauty4 ,and still farther south1 ,transparent1 ,texas ,belle 7,paris ,belle71 ,newman1 ,lone ,star1 and ,el ,paso are grown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhe4 ,meech ,quince 7,meech's ,prolific74 ,quince4--,although not largely grown1 quinces generally find a ready sale1 and they are desirable for home use4 ,the trees are usually planted about #ab feet each way1 and may be trained either in a shrub or tree form1 but it will generally be best to grow them with a short trunk4 ,they succeed best on a deep1 moist1 and fertile soil4 ,they require much the same care as the pear4 ,the insects and diseases by which they are attacked are also the same as for that fruit4 ,blight is particularly bad4 ,the fruit is borne on short shoots of the same season1 and strong heading-in of the growth in winter removes a good part of the buds from which the shoots arise4 ,the ,orange is the most common variety1 but ,champion1 ,meech 7,fig4 #bhe71 and ,rea are sometimes grown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhf4 ,a rooting tip of the black raspberry4 ,raspberry4--,both the red and black raspberries are essentials of a good garden4 ,a few plants of each will produce a supply of berries for a family through six or eight weeks1 provided both early and late varieties are planted4 ,a cool situation1 soil that will hold moisture without being wet1 and thorough preparation of the ground1 are the conditions necessary to success4 ,the blackcap raspberries should be set #c to #d feet apart1 the rows #f or #g feet2 the red varieties #c feet apart1 the rows #e feet apart4 ,spring setting is usually preferable4 ,the shoots of raspberries sent up one season fruit and die the following year1 as in blackberries and dewberries4 ,most of the blackcap varieties naturally throw out side branches the first season1 and with such it is a good plan to pinch back the new canes as soon as they have reached a height of #b to #c feet1 according to the full height of the variety4 ,this will hasten the throwing out of side shoots1 upon which fruit will be borne the following year4 ,as soon as severe freezing weather is over in the spring1 these side shoots should be cut back #i to #ab inches1 according to the strength of the canes and the number of side branches upon them4 ,the same method of pruning is advisable with red varieties like ,cuthbert1 which naturally branch freely4 ,other sorts1 like ,king1 ,hansell1 ,marlboro1 ,turner1 and ,thwack1 that seldom branch1 should not be pinched back in summer1 as1 even though this might induce them to send out shoots1 the branches will be weak1 and if they survive the winter1 will produce less fruit than would the strong buds upon the main canes had they not been forced into growth4 ,as soon as the crop has been gathered1 and the old canes are dead1 they should be removed1 and at the same time all of the surplus new shoots should be cut away4 ,from four to five good canes will be sufficient for each hill1 while in rows the number may be from two to three in each foot4 ,pruned in this way1 nearly all varieties will have stems sufficiently large to support themselves1 but as there will be more or less breaking down and injury to the fruit from the bending over of the canes1 many growers prefer to support them by means of stakes or trellises4 ,stakes may be set in each hill1 or for matted rows stout stakes #c feet high are driven at intervals of #dj feet and a ,no4 #aj galvanized wire is stretched along the row1 to which the canes are tied4 ,it would be a saving of labor if a wire is stretched either side of the row1 as then no tying will be required4 ,,xxiii4 ,cherry currant4 ,,xxiii4 ,cherry currant4 ,if it is desired to secure new plants1 the ends of the branches of the black varieties should be covered with soil about the middle of ,august1 when the tips are seen to divide into several slender shoots1 and to take root 7,fig4 #bhf72 these can be taken up and planted the following spring4 ,while the suckers that spring from the roots of red varieties 7,fig4 #bhg7 may be used in propagating them1 it will be better to use plants grown from root-cuttings1 as they will have much better roots4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhg4 ,sprouting habit of red raspberry4 ,raspberries may be bent over to the ground so that the snow will protect them1 in severe climates4 ,for red rust1 pull out the plant1 root and branch1 and burn it4 ,short rotations--fruiting the plants only two or three years--and burning the old canes and trimmings1 will do much to keep raspberry plantations healthy4 ,spraying will have some effect in combating anthracnose4 ,varieties of raspberries4 ,of the black sorts the following will be found desirable3 ,palmer1 ,conrath1 ,kansas1 and ,eureka1 which ripen in the order named4 ,in some sections the ,gregg is still valuable1 but it is somewhat lacking in hardiness4 ,ohio is a favorite variety for evaporating4 ,of the purple-cap varieties1 ,shaffer and ,columbian generally succeed4 ,among the red varieties none are more universally successful than ,cuthbert4 ,king is a promising early variety1 and ,loudon is a valuable late kind4 ,many growers find ,marlboro and ,turner well worthy of cultivation1 although rather local in their adaptations2 while for home use1 ,golden ,queen1 a yellow ,cuthbert1 is much liked4 ,strawberry4--,every one may grow strawberries1 yet the saying that strawberries will grow on any soil is misleading1 although true4 ,some varieties of strawberries will grow on certain soils better than other varieties4 ,what these varieties are can be determined only by an actual test1 but it is a safe rule to choose such varieties as prove good in many localities4 ,as to the methods of culture1 so much depends on the size of the plot1 the purpose for which the fruit is wanted1 and the extent of care one is willing to give1 that no set rule can be given for a garden in which but few plants are grown and extra care can be given4 ,the grower must always be sure that his varieties will 8fertilize02 that is1 that he has sufficient pollen-bearing kinds to insure a crop4 ,with the highest culture1 good results can be obtained from the hill system of growing strawberries4 ,for this the plants may be set in rows #c feet apart and #a foot in the row1 or if it be worked both ways1 they may be from #b to #b-a_/b feet each way4 ,in the small garden1 where a horse cannot be used1 the plants are frequently set #a foot each way1 arranging them in beds of three to five rows1 with walks #b feet wide between them4 ,as fast as runners form1 they should be removed1 so that the entire vigor of the plant will be exerted in strengthening the crown4 ,when extra fine specimen berries are desired1 the plant may be held above the ground by a wire frame1 as shown in ,fig4 #bhh4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhh4 ,strawberry plant supported by a wire rack4 ,or strawberries may be grown by the narrow matted-row system1 in which the runners1 before rooting1 should be turned along the rows at a distance of #d to #f inches from the parent plant4 ,these runners should be the first ones made by the plant and should not be allowed to root themselves1 but 8set in40 ,this is not a difficult operation2 and if the runners are separated from the parent plant as soon as they become well established1 the drain on that plant is not great4 ,all other runners should be cut off as they start4 ,the row should be about #ab inches wide at fruiting time 7,fig4 #bhi74 ,each plant should have sufficient feeding ground1 full sunlight1 and a firm hold in the soil4 ,this matted-row system is perhaps as good a method1 either in a private garden or field culture1 as could be practiced4 ,with a little care in hoeing1 weeding1 and cutting off runners1 the beds seem to produce as large crops the second year as the first4 ,the old way of growing a crop was to set the plants #aj to #ab inches apart1 in rows #c feet apart1 and allow them to run and root at will1 the results being a mass of small1 crowded plants1 each striving to obtain plant-food and none of them succeeding in getting enough4 ,the last1 or outside runners1 having but the tips of their roots in the ground1 are moved by the wind1 heaved by the frost1 or have the exposed roots dried out by the wind and sun4 ,ground rich in potash produces the firmest and best flavored berries4 ,excessive use of stable manure1 usually rich in nitrogen1 should be avoided1 as tending to make too rank growth of foliage and berries of a soft texture4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bhi4 ,a narrow matted row of strawberries4 ,for most purposes1 strawberries should be set as early in the spring as the ground can be worked4 ,the planting can be done with a trowel1 spade1 or dibble1 taking care to spread the roots out as much as possible and to press the soil firmly about them1 holding the plant so that the bud will be just above the surface4 ,if the season is late and the weather is hot and dry1 some or all of the older leaves should be removed4 ,if water is used1 it should be poured about the roots before the hole is filled and as soon as it has soaked away the remaining soil should be packed about the plants4 ,during the first season the blossom stalks should be removed as soon as they appear1 and the runners should be restricted to a space about #a foot wide4 ,some persons prefer still further to reduce the number of plants1 and after layering from three to four plants between those originally set1 to remove all others4 ,strawberries are often set in ,august or ,september1 but this is advisable only for small patches or when the soil is in the best possible condition and the highest culture is given4 ,for garden culture1 it may pay to secure potted plants 7,fig4 #bij74 ,these are sold by many nurserymen1 and they may be obtained by plunging pots beneath the runners as soon as the fruiting season is passed4 ,in ,august1 the plant should fill the pot 7which should be #c-;inch or #d-;inch7 and the plant is ready for setting in the plantation4 ,such plants should bear a good crop the following spring4 ,during the first season strawberries should be frequently worked1 rather deep at first1 but as the weather becomes warm and the roots fill the ground1 tillage should be restricted to a depth of not more than #b inches4 ,the weeds should never be allowed to get a start1 and if the season is dry1 cultivation should be so frequent that the surface soil should at all times be loose and open1 forming a dust mulch to conserve the moisture4 ,if the fall is moist and the plantation free from weeds1 there will be little occasion for cultivation after the first of ,september1 until just before the ground freezes up1 when a thorough cultivation should be given4 ,in addition to the horse cultivation1 the hoe should be used whenever necessary to loosen the soil about the plants and to destroy weeds that may start in the row4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bij4 ,a potted strawberry plant4 ,after the ground has frozen1 it will be advisable to mulch the plants by covering the space between the rows with some waste material to the depth of about #b inches4 ,directly over the plants a covering of #a inch will generally suffice4 ,the material used should be free from the seeds of grass and weeds1 and should be such as will remain upon the beds without blowing off and that will not pack down too closely upon the plants4 ,marsh hay makes an ideal mulch1 but where it cannot be secured1 straw will answer4 ,corn fodder makes a clean but rather coarse mulch1 and where they can be held in place by some other material1 forest leaves do well as a mulch between the rows4 ,in the spring the straw should be removed from over the plants and allowed to remain between the rows as a mulch1 or all of it may be removed and the soil worked with a cultivator4 ,a large crop should be produced the second season2 many persons think it best to renew the plantation each year1 but if the plants are healthy and the ground free from grass and weeds1 the plantation can often be retained for a second crop4 ,it will be well to plow the soil away from the rows so as to leave but a narrow strip1 and along this the old plants should be cut out so as to leave the new plants about #a foot apart4 ,if this is done in ,july1 the rows should fill up by winter1 so as to be in about the same condition as a new bed4 ,insects and diseases of the strawberry4 ,the insect most commonly troublesome to the strawberry grower is the common ,june-bug1 or ,may-beetle1 the larvae of which are often very common in land that has been in sod4 ,two years should elapse before sod land is used for this crop4 ,cut-worms are often troublesome1 but plowing the land the fall previous to setting the plants will destroy many of them4 ,they can be poisoned by sprinkling about the field clover or other green plants that have been soaked in ,paris green water 7p4 #bjc74 ,the most common fungous disease of the strawberry is leaf-blight or 8rust10 which frequently causes much injury to the foliage1 and may result in the loss of the crop4 ,varieties least subject to the disease should be chosen for planting1 and on suitable soils and well cared for1 there need be little loss from this disease if the plantation is frequently renewed4 ,the rust and mildew may be held in check by bordeaux mixture4 ,it is usually sufficient to spray after the blooming season 7or at any time the first year the plants are set71 in order to secure healthy foliage for the next year 7p4 #bac74 ,varieties of strawberries4 ,for most parts of the country1 ,haverland1 ,warfield1 ,bubach1 and ,gandy afford a succession and are all hardy and productive varieties4 ,the first three are imperfect-flowered varieties1 and some such perfect-flowering kinds as ,lowett or ,bederwood should be provided to fertilize them4 ,among other varieties that do well in most sections are ,brandywine1 ,greenville1 ,clyde1 and ,woolverton4 ,parker ,earle is very late1 and is valuable for either home use or market1 upon strong1 moist soils1 where it can have the best of care4 ,belt 7,william ,belt7 and ,marshall have large1 showy fruits1 and do well on strong soil4 ,excelsior or ,michel might be added as very early2 ,aroma is grown very extensively in some sections2 also ,tennessee 7,tennessee ,prolific7 is a very promising new sort from ,tennessee4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,growing ,,of ,,the ,,vegetable ,,plants ,a vegetable garden is admittedly a part of any home place that has a good rear area4 ,a purchased vegetable is never the same as one taken from a man's own soil and representing his own effort and solicitude4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bia4 ,cultivating the backache4 ,it is essential to any satisfaction in vegetable-growing that the soil be rich and thoroughly subdued and fined4 ,the plantation should also be so arranged that the tilling can be done with wheel tools1 and1 where the space will allow it1 with horse tools4 ,the old-time garden bed 7,fig4 #bia7 consumes time and labor1 wastes moisture1 and is more trouble and expense than it is worth4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bib4 ,tracy's plan for a kitchen-garden4 ,the rows of vegetables should be as long and continuous as possible1 to allow of tillage with wheel tools4 ,if it is not desired to grow a full row of any one vegetable1 the line may be made up of several species1 one following the other1 care being taken to place together such kinds as have similar requirements2 one long row1 for example1 might contain all the parsnips1 carrots1 and salsify4 ,one or two long rows containing a dozen kinds of vegetables are usually preferable to a dozen short rows1 each with one kind of vegetable4 ,it is well to place the permanent vegetables1 as rhubarb and asparagus1 at one side1 where they will not interfere with the plowing or tilling4 ,the annual vegetables should be grown on different parts of the area in succeeding years1 thus practicing something like a rotation of crops4 ,if radish or cabbage maggots or club-root become thoroughly established in the plantation1 omit for a year or more the vegetables on which they live4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bic4 ,a garden fence arranged to allow of horse work4 ,a suggestive arrangement for a kitchen-garden is given in ,fig4 #bib4 ,in ,fig4 #bic is a plan of a fenced garden1 in which gates are provided at the ends to allow the turning of a horse and cultivator 7,webb ,donnell1 in ,american ,gardening74 ,figure #bid shows a garden with continuous rows1 but with two breaks running across the area1 dividing the plantation into blocks4 ,the area is surrounded with a windbreak1 and the frames and permanent plants are at one side4 ,it is by no means necessary that the vegetable-garden contain only kitchen-garden products4 ,flowers may be dropped in here and there wherever a vacant corner occurs or a plant dies4 ,such informal and mixed gardens usually have a personal character that adds greatly to their interest1 and1 therefore1 to their value4 ,one is generally impressed with this informal character of the home-gardens in many ,european countries1 a type of planting that arises from the necessity of making the most of every inch of land4 ,it was the writer's pleasure to look over the fence of a ,bavarian peasant's garden and to see1 on a space about #dj feet by #ajj feet in area1 a delightful medley of onions1 pole beans1 peonies1 celery1 balsams1 gooseberries1 coleus1 cabbages1 sunflowers1 beets1 poppies1 cucumbers1 morning-glories1 kohl-rabi1 verbenas1 bush beans1 pinks1 stocks1 currants1 wormwood1 parsley1 carrots1 kale1 perennial phlox1 nasturtiums1 feverfew1 lettuce1 lilies6 ,vegetables for six 7by ,c4,e4 ,hunn74 ,a home vegetable-garden for a family of six would require1 exclusive of potatoes1 a space not over #ajj by #aej feet4 ,beginning at one side of the garden and running the rows the short way 7having each row #ajj feet long7 sowings may be made1 as soon as the ground is in condition to work1 of the following3 ,fifty feet each of parsnips and salsify4 ,one hundred feet of onions1 #be feet of which may be potato or set onions1 the remainder black-seed for summer and fall use4 ,fifty feet of early beets2 #ej feet of lettuce1 with which radish may be sown to break the soil and be harvested before the lettuce needs the room4 ,one hundred feet of early cabbage1 the plants for which should be from a frame or purchased4 ,set the plants #ah inches to #b feet apart4 ,one hundred feet of early cauliflower2 culture same as for cabbage4 ,four hundred and fifty feet of peas1 sown as follows3-- ,illustration3 #bid4 ,a family kitchen-garden4 #ajj feet of extra early4 #ajj feet of extra early1 sown late4 #ajj feet of intermediate4 #ajj feet of late4 #ej feet of dwarf varieties4 ,if trellis or brush is not to be used1 frequent sowings of the dwarfs will maintain a supply4 ,after the soil has become warm and all danger of frost has passed1 the tender vegetables be planted as follows3 ,corn in five rows #c feet apart1 three rows to be early and intermediate and two rows late4 ,one hundred feet of string beans1 early to late varieties4 ,vines as follows3-- #aj hills of cucumbers1 #fx#f feet4 #f hills of early squash1 #fx#f feet4 #bj hills of muskmelon1 #fx#f feet4 #aj hills of ,hubbard1 #fx#f feet4 ,one hundred feet of okra4 ,twenty eggplants4 ,one hundred feet 7#be plants7 tomatoes4 ,six large clumps of rhubarb4 ,an asparagus bed #be feet long and #c feet wide4 ,late cabbage1 cauliflower1 and celery are to occupy the space made ,vacant by removing early crops of early and intermediate peas and string beans4 ,a border on one side or end will hold all herbs1 such as parsley1 thyme1 sage1 hyssop1 mints4 ,the classes of vegetables4 ,before attempting to grow particular vegetables1 it will help the beginner to an understanding of the subject if he recognizes certain cultural groups or classes1 and what their main requirements are4 ,root-crops--,beet1 carrot1 parsnip1 salsify4 ,the root-crops are cool-weather plants2 that is1 they may be sown very early1 even before light frosts disappear2 and the winter kinds grow very late in the fall1 or may be left in the ground till most other crops are harvested4 ,they are not often transplanted4 ,loose and deep soil1 free from clods1 is required to grow straight and well-developed roots4 ,the land must also be perfectly drained1 not only to remove superfluous moisture1 but to provide a deep and friable soil4 ,subsoiling is useful in hard lands4 ,a large admixture of sand is generally desirable1 provided the soil is not likely to overheat in sunny weather4 ,to keep roots fresh in the cellar1 pack them in barrels1 boxes1 or bins of sand which is just naturally moist1 allowing each root to come wholly or partly in contact with the sand4 ,the best material in which to pack them is sphagnum moss1 the same that nurserymen use in packing trees for shipment1 and which may be obtained in bogs in many parts of the country4 ,in either sand or sphagnum1 the roots will not shrivel2 but if the cellar is warm1 they may start to grow4 ,roots can also be buried1 after the manner of potatoes4 ,alliaceous group--,onion1 leek1 garlic4 ,a group of very hardy cool-weather plants1 demanding unusually careful preparation of the surface soil to receive the seeds and to set the young plants going4 ,they withstand frost and cool weather1 and may be sown very early4 ,seeds are sown directly where the plants are to stand4 ,for early onions1 however1 the special practice has recently arisen of transplanting from seedbeds4 ,brassicaceous group--,cabbage1 kale1 cauliflower4 ,these are cool-weather crops1 all of them withstanding considerable frost4 ,the cabbages and kales are often started in fall in the middle and southern latitudes1 and are harvested before hot weather arrives4 ,in the northern states1 these plants will all do best when started early in hotbed1 frame1 or greenhouse1--from the last of ,february to ,april--and transplanted to the open ground ,may first to ,june first1 partly because their season of growth may be long and partly to enable them to escape the heat of midsummer4 ,still1 some persons are successful in growing late cabbage1 kale1 and cauliflower1 by sowing the seeds in hills and in the open ground where the plants are to mature4 ,it is best to transplant the young plantlets twice1 first from the seed-bed to boxes1 or frames1 about the time the second set of true leaves appears1 placing the plants #bd inches apart each way1 and transplanting again to the open ground in rows #d to #e feet apart1 with plants #b to #d feet apart in the row4 ,if the plants are started under cover1 they should be hardened off by exposure to light and air during the warmer hours of several days preceding the final transplanting4 ,the most serious enemy of cabbage-like plants is the root-maggot4 ,see discussion of this insect on pp4 #ahg1 #bja4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bie4 ,the white butterfly that lays the eggs for the cabbage-worm4 ,the cabbage-worm 7larva of the white butterfly shown in ,fig4 #bie7 can be dispatched with pyrethrum or kerosene emulsion4 ,it must be treated very early1 before the worm gets far into the head 7p4 #bjj74 ,the club-root or stump-root is a fungous disease for which there is no good remedy4 ,use new land if the disease is present 7p4 #bjh74 ,solanaceous group--,tomato1 egg-plant1 red pepper4 ,these are warm-weather plants1 very impatient of frost4 ,they are all natives of southern zones1 and have not yet become so far acclimatized in the ,north as not to need the benefit of our longest seasons4 ,plants should be started early1 under glass4 ,they should be 8pricked off10 when the second leaves appear1 #c or #d inches apart1 into flats or boxes4 ,these boxes should be kept in a coldframe1 to which an abundance of light and air is admitted on warm1 sunny days1 in order to harden them off4 ,after all danger of frost is past1 and the garden soil is well warmed1 the plants may be finally transplanted4 ,if the ground is too rich1 these plants are likely to grow too late in the northern seasons4 ,cucurbitaceous group--,cucumber1 melon1 squash1 pumpkin4 ,all the members of this group are very tender to frost1 and they must not be planted till the season is thoroughly open and settled4 ,the plants are not transplanted1 unless they are transferred from boxes or pots4 ,seeds must be planted somewhat shallow from early spring to midsummer4 ,for the earliest cucumbers and melons1 seeds are planted in frames4 ,that is1 each hill is inclosed by a portable box frame about #c feet square and usually having a movable sash cover4 ,the cover is raised or removed in warm days1 and the frame bodily taken away when all danger of frost is past4 ,in field culture1 seeds are planted an inch deep1 four to six in a hill1 with hills #d by #f feet apart1 these distances being varied slightly1 according to location and variety4 ,good cucumbers are sometimes grown in hills surrounding a barrel in which manure is placed to be leached out by successive waterings4 ,the omnipresent enemies of all the cucurbitaceous crops are the little cucumber beetle and the large black 8stink bug40 ,ashes1 lime1 or tobacco dust occasionally seem to show some efficiency in preventing the ravages of these insects1 but the only reasonably sure immunity is in the use of covers over the hills 7,fig4 #bbi7 and in hand-picking 7p4 #bjb74 ,covers may also be made by stretching mosquito netting over arcs of barrel hoops or bent wires4 ,if by some such means the plants are kept insect-free till they outgrow the protection1 they will usually escape serious damage from insects thereafter4 ,it is well to plant trap or decoy hills of cucumbers1 squashes1 or melons in advance of the regular planting1 on which the bugs may be harvested4 ,leguminous crops--,peas and beans4 ,two cultural groups are included in the legumes1--the bean group 7including all field1 garden1 and kidney beans1 and the cowpea7 comprising warm-weather plants2 the pea group 7including field and garden pea1 the ,windsor or ,broad bean7 comprising cool-weather plants4 ,the former are quickly susceptible to frost and should be planted only after the weather is settled4 ,the latter are among the earliest vegetables to be planted4 ,the leguminous crops are not transplanted1 the seed being placed where the plants are to grow4 ,salad plants and pot-herbs 78greens074 ,these plants are all grown for their1 tender1 fresh1 succulent leaves1 and therefore every reasonable effort should be made to secure quick and continuous foliage growth4 ,it is manifestly expedient that they be grown in warm1 mellow ground1 well cultivated and copiously watered4 ,such small plants as cress1 corn salad1 and parsley may be grown in small beds1 or even in boxes or pots2 but in a garden where space is not too scant1 they may be more conveniently managed in rows1 like peas or beets4 ,nearly all the salad plants may be sown in the spring1 and from time to time throughout the summer for succession4 ,the group is culturally not homogeneous1 inasmuch as some of the plants need special treatment2 but most of them are cool-weather subjects4 ,sweet-herbs4 ,the herb garden should find a place on all amateurs' grounds4 ,sweet-herbs may sometimes be made profitable by disposing of the surplus to the green grocer and the druggist4 ,the latter will often buy all that the housewife wishes to dispose of1 as the general supply of medicinal herbs is grown by specialists1 and goes into the hands of the wholesaler and is often old when received by the local dealer4 ,the seedsmen's catalogues mention upwards of forty different herbs1 medicinal and culinary4 ,the majority of them are perennial1 and will grow for many years if well taken care of4 ,however1 it is better to resow them every three or four years4 ,beds #d feet square of each of the herbs will supply an ordinary family4 ,the perennial sweet-herbs may be propagated by division1 although they are usually grown from seeds4 ,the second year--and sometimes even the first year--the plants are strong enough for cutting4 ,the common perennial sweet-herbs are3 ,sage1 lavender1 peppermint1 spearmint1 hyssop1 thyme1 marjoram1 balm1 catnip1 rosemary1 horehound1 fennel1 lovage1 winter savory1 tansy1 wormwood1 costmary4 ,the commoner annual species 7or those that are treated as annuals7 are3 ,anise1 sweet basil1 summer savory1 coriander1 pennyroyal1 caraway 7biennial71 clary 7biennial71 dill 7biennial71 sweet marjoram 7biennial74 ,the culture of the leading vegetables4 ,having now obtained a view of the layout of the vegetable-garden and a good conception of the leading cultural groups1 we may proceed with a discussion of the different kinds of vegetables themselves4 ,good experience is better than book advice2 but the person who consults a book is the one who lacks experience4 ,any printed directions are necessarily imperfect1 and they may not be adaptable to the particular conditions under which the amateur works2 but they ought to set him in the right direction so that he may more easily find his way4 ,seedsmen's catalogues often contain much useful and reliable advice of this kind4 ,asparagus4--,the best of all early spring vegetables2 a hardy herbaceous perennial1 grown for the soft edible shoots that spring from the crown4 ,the culture of asparagus has been simplified in the past few years1 and at present the knowledge required successfully to plant and grow a good supply need not be that of a professional4 ,the old method of excavating to the depth of #c feet or more1 throwing in from #d to #f inches of broken stone or bricks for drainage1 then filling to within #af to #ah inches of the surface with well-rotted manure1 with #f inches of soil upon which to set the roots1 has given place to the simple practice of plowing or digging a trench from #ad to #af inches deep1 spreading well-rotted manure in the bottom to the depth of #c or #d inches2 when well trodden down covering the manure with #c or #d inches of good garden soil1 then setting the plants1 with the roots well spread out1 covering carefully with soil to the level of the garden1 and firming the soil with the feet4 ,this will leave the crowns of the plants from #d to #e inches below the surface4 ,in stubborn1 heavy soil the best method to pursue in making a permanent bed is to throw out all the dirt from the trench and replace with good1 fibrous loam4 ,in setting1 #a-year-old plants will prove more satisfactory than older ones1 being less liable to suffer from injury to the root system than those that have made a larger growth4 ,two years after setting the crop may be cut somewhat1 but not sooner if a lasting bed is desired1 as the effort to replace the stalks has a tendency to weaken the plant unless the roots are well established4 ,the cutting should cease in ,june or early ,july1 or the roots may be much weakened4 ,in cutting1 care should be taken to insert the knife vertically1 so that adjoining crowns will not be injured 7,fig4 #bif74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bif4 ,good ,a and poor ,b modes of inserting the knife to cut asparagus4 ,some careful growers pull or break the shoots rather than cut them4 ,the yearly treatment of an asparagus bed consists of cleaning off tops and weeds in the fall and adding a dressing of well-rotted manure to the depth of #c or #d inches1 this manure to be lightly forked into the bed the following spring2 or the tops may be allowed to stand for winter protection and the mulch left off4 ,a top-dressing of nitrate of soda1 at the rate of #bjj pounds per acre1 is often beneficial as a spring stimulant1 particularly in the case of an old bed4 ,good results will also follow an application of bone meal or superphosphate at the rate of some #cjj to #ejj pounds per acre4 ,the practice of sowing salt on an asparagus bed is almost universal2 yet beds that have never received a pound of salt are found to be as productive as those having received an annual dressing4 ,nevertheless1 a salt dressing is recommended4 ,two rows of asparagus #be feet long and #c feet apart should supply a large family with an abundance throughout the season1 and if well taken care of1 will last a number of years4 ,conover ,colossal is the variety most generally grown1 and is perhaps the most satisfactory sort4 ,palmetto1 a variety originating at the ,south1 is also very popular4 ,artichoke4--,the artichoke of literature is a tall1 coarse perennial of the thistle tribe1 producing edible flower-heads4 ,cardoon is a related plant4 ,the fleshy scales of the head and the soft 8bottom0 of the head are the parts used4 ,the young suckers or shoots may also be tied together and blanched1 using them like asparagus or ,swiss chard4 ,but few of these plants would be needed for a family1 as they produce a number of flower-heads to a plant and a quantity of suckers4 ,the plants should be set from #b to #c feet apart in the row1 the rows being #c feet apart4 ,this vegetable is not quite hardy in the ,north1 but a covering of leaves or barnyard litter to the depth of a foot will protect it well4 ,the plant is perennial1 but the best yield comes from young plants4 ,if the heads are allowed to ripen1 they reduce the vitality of the plant4 ,artichokes have never become so popular in this country as to have produced a long list of varieties4 ,large ,green ,globe is most commonly offered by seedsmen4 ,edible heads should be secured the second year from seed4 ,seedlings are likely to vary greatly1 and if one is fond of artichokes1 he would do better to propagate by suckers from the best plants4 ,these plants make no mean decorative subjects1 either massed or in a mixed border1 and from the rarity of their culture are always objects of interest4 ,artichoke1 ,jerusalem1 is a wholly different plant from the above1 although it is commonly known as 8artichoke0 in this country4 ,it is a species of sunflower that produces potato-like tubers4 ,these tubers may be used in lieu of potatoes4 ,they are very palatable to hogs2 and when the plant becomes a weed1--as it often does1--it may be exterminated by turning the hogs into the field4 ,hardy1 and will grow anywhere4 ,bean4--,every garden grows beans of one kind or another4 ,under this general name1 many kinds of plants are cultivated4 ,they are all tender1 and the seeds1 therefore1 should not be planted until the weather is thoroughly settled2 and the soil should be warm and loose4 ,they are all annuals in northern countries1 or treated as such4 ,the bean plants may be classified in various ways4 ,in respect to stature1 they may be thrown into three general categories2 viz4 the pole or climbing beans1 the bush beans1 and the strict-growing or upright beans 7as the ,broad or ,windsor bean74 ,in respect to their uses1 beans again may be divided into three categories2 viz4 those used as string or snap beans1 the entire pod being eaten2 those that are used as shell beans1 the full-size but immature beans being shelled from the pod and cooked2 dry beans1 or those eaten in their dry or winter condition4 ,the same variety of bean may be used for all of these three purposes at different stages of its development2 but as a matter of fact1 there are varieties better for one purpose than the other4 ,again1 beans may be classified in respect to their species4 ,those species that are best known are as follows3 7#a7 ,common bean1 or ,phaseolus vulgaris1 of which there are both tall and bush forms4 ,all the common snap and string beans belong here1 as also the ,speckled ,cranberry types of pole beans1 and the common field beans4 7#b7 ,the ,lima beans1 or ,phaseolus lunatus4 ,the larger part of these are pole beans1 but lately dwarf or bush varieties have appeared4 7#c7 ,the ,scarlet ,runner1 ,phaseolus multiflorus1 of which the ,scarlet ,runner and ,white ,dutch ,runner are familiar examples4 ,the ,scarlet ,runner is usually grown as an ornamental vine1 and it is perennial in warm countries1 but the seeds are edible as shelled beans4 ,the ,white ,dutch ,runner is oftener cultivated for food4 7#d7 ,the ,yard-,long1 or ,asparagus bean1 ,dolichos sesquipedalis1 which produces long and weak vines and very long1 slender pods4 ,the green pods are eaten1 and also the shelled beans4 ,the ,french ,yard-,long is the only variety of this type that is commonly known in this country4 ,this type of bean is popular in the ,orient4 7#e7 ,the ,broad beans1 of which the ,windsor is the common type4 ,these are much grown in the ,old ,world for stock feed1 and they are sometimes used for human food4 ,they grow to one strict1 central1 stiff stalk1 to a height of #b to #d or #e feet1 and they are very unlike other kinds of beans in appearance4 ,in this country1 they are very little grown on account of our hot and dry summers4 ,in ,canada they are somewhat raised1 and are sometimes used in the making of silage4 7#f7 ,the cowpea1 which is really a bean 7species of ,vigna71 much grown in the ,south for hay and green-manuring1 is also a very good table vegetable and one that is destined to increase in popularity for domestic use4 ,the culture of the bean1 while of the easiest1 often proves a failure as far as the first crop is concerned1 from planting the seed before the ground has become warm and dry4 ,no vegetable seed will decay quicker than beans1 and the delay caused by waiting for the soil to become warm and free from excessive moisture will be more than made up by the rapidity of growth when finally they are planted4 ,beans will grow on most any land1 but the best results may be secured by having the soil well enriched and in good physical condition4 ,from the #eth to the #ajth of ,may in the latitude of central ,new ,york1 it will be safe to plant beans for an early crop4 ,the beans may be dropped #b inches deep in shallow drills1 the seeds to lie #c inches apart4 ,cover to the surface of the soil1 and if the ground be dry1 firm it with the foot or the back of the hoe4 ,for the bush varieties1 allow #b feet between the drill-rows1 but for the dwarf ,limas #b-a_/b feet is better4 ,pole ,limas are usually planted in hills #b to #c feet apart in the rows4 ,dwarf ,limas may be sown thinly in drills4 ,a large number of the varieties of both the green-podded and the wax-podded beans are used almost exclusively as snap beans1 to be eaten with the pod while tender4 ,the various strains of the ,black ,wax are the most popular string beans4 ,the pole or running beans are used either green or dried1 and the ,limas1 both tall and dwarf1 are well known for their superior flavor either as shelled or dry beans4 ,the old-fashioned ,cranberry or ,horticultural ,lima type 7a pole form of ,phaseolus vulgaris7 is probably the best shell bean1 but the trouble of poling makes it unpopular4 ,dwarf ,limas are much more desirable for small gardens than the pole varieties1 as they may be planted much closer1 the bother of procuring poles or twine is avoided1 and the garden will have a more sightly appearance4 ,both the dwarf ,limas and pole ,limas require a longer season in which to mature than the bush beans1 and only one planting is usually made4 ,the ordinary bush beans may be planted at intervals of two weeks from the first planting until the #ajth of ,august4 ,each planting may be made on ground previously occupied by some early-maturing crop4 ,thus1 the first to third plantings may be on ground from which has been harvested a crop of spinach1 early radish1 or lettuce2 after that1 on ground where early peas have been grown2 and the later sowings where beets or early potatoes have grown4 ,string beans for canning are usually taken from the last crop4 ,one quart of seed will plant #ajj feet of drill of the bush beans2 or #a quart of ,limas will plant #ajj hills4 ,limas are the richest of beans1 but they often fail to mature in the northern states4 ,the land should not be very strong in nitrogen 7or stable manure71 else the plants will run too much to vine and be too late4 ,choose a fertile sandy or gravelly soil with warm exposure1 use some soluble commercial fertilizer to start them off1 and give them the best of culture4 ,aim to have the pods set before the droughts of midsummer come4 ,good trellises for beans are made by wool twine stretched between two horizontal wires1 one of which is drawn a foot above the ground and the other #f or #g feet high4 ,bean plants are not troubled by insects to any extent1 but they are sometimes attacked by blight4 ,when this occurs1 do not plant the same ground to beans again for a year or two4 ,beet4--,this vegetable is grown for its thick root1 and for its herbage 7used as 8greens072 and ornamental-leaved varieties are sometimes planted in flower-gardens4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #big4 ,bastian turnip beet4 ,being one of the hardiest of spring vegetables1 the seed may be sown as early in the spring as the ground can be worked4 ,a light1 sandy soil is the best on which to grow beets to perfection1 but any well-tilled garden land will raise satisfactory crops4 ,on heavy ground the turnip beet gives the best results1 as the growth is nearly all at or above the surface4 ,the long varieties1 having tapering roots running deep into the soil1 are liable to be misshapen unless the physical condition of the soil is such that the roots meet with little obstruction4 ,a succession of sowings should be made1 at intervals of two to three weeks1 until late summer1 as the beets are much more desirable in their young stage than when they have become old and woody4 ,the mangel-wurzel and the sugar-beet are usually grown as a field crop1 and will not enter into the calculations of the home garden4 ,in order to hasten the season of the extra-early crop of beets1 the seeds may be sown in boxes or in the soil of a hotbed in ,february or ,march1 transplanting the small plants to the open ground at the time the first sowing of seed is made4 ,as the flat or turnip-rooted varieties grow at the surface of the ground1 the seed may be sown thickly1 and as the more advanced roots are large enough to use they may be pulled1 leaving room for the later ones to develop1 thus growing a large quantity in a small area and having a long season of small beets from one sowing4 ,for winter use the late ,july-sown seed will give the best roots1 growing through the cool months of the fall to a medium size and remaining firm without being tough or stringy4 ,these may be dug after light frosts and before any severe cold weather1 and stored in barrels or boxes in the cellar1 using enough dry dirt to fill spaces between the roots and cover them to the depth of #f inches4 ,these roots1 thus packed in a cool cellar1 will be fit to use through the entire winter months4 ,when it can be had1 florists' or sphagnum moss is an excellent medium in which to pack roots for winter4 ,the early round or turnip varieties 7,fig4 #big7 are best for early and summer use4 ,the long blood beets may be used for storing1 but these require a longer season of growth4 ,broccoli--is almost identical with the cauliflower1 except that it usually requires a longer season and matures in the fall4 ,it is grown more generally in ,europe than in this country4 ,the special merit of broccoli is its adaptability for late summer planting and its rapid growth in the late season4 ,it is said that a large proportion of broccoli is used in the manufacture of pickles4 ,the culture is the same as for cauliflower1--deep1 moist soil well enriched1 cool weather1 and the destruction of the cabbage worm4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bih4 ,brussels sprouts4 ,brussels sprouts4--,the plant is grown for the buttons or sprouts 7miniature cabbage heads7 that grow thickly along the stem 7,fig4 #bih74 ,it should be more generally known1 as it is one of the choicest of the cabbage family1 and may be had at its best after the season for cauliflower has passed4 ,it is the better for being touched by the fall frosts4 ,the buttons should be cut off rather than broken4 ,the very small hard 8sprouts0 or buttons are the best4 ,the culture is essentially the same as for late cabbage or broccoli4 ,one ounce will sow #ajj feet of drill1 or make upward of #bjjj plants4 ,set plants in field #b to #c feet apart1 or dwarf varieties closer4 ,they require the entire season in which to grow4 ,cabbage4--,the cabbage is now so extensively grown as a field crop1 from which the market is supplied1 and the plants require so much room that many home-gardeners incline to give up its culture2 but the early varieties1 at least1 should be grown at home4 ,for an early crop in the ,north1 the plants must be started either in ,february or early ,march1 or the previous ,september and wintered over in coldframes4 ,this latter method was once a common practice by gardeners near large cities1 but the building of greenhouses to replace the many hotbeds of the market-gardener has changed the practice in many localities1 and now most of the early cabbages in the ,north are grown from seed sown in ,january1 ,february1 or ,march4 ,the plants are hardened off in ,march and early ,april and planted out as early as possible4 ,the private grower1 or one with a small garden1 may often procure his early plants from the market-gardener much cheaper than he can grow them1 as usually only a limited number of early cabbage plants are wanted2 but for the midseason and main crop1 the seed may be sown in ,may or ,june in a seed-bed1 setting the plants in ,july4 ,the seed-bed should be made mellow and rich4 ,a good border will do4 ,the seed is sown preferably in rows1 thus allowing thinning of the plants and the pulling of any weeds that germinate4 ,the young plants will well repay attention to watering and thinning4 ,the rows should be #c or #d inches apart4 ,when the plants are large enough to transplant1 they may be planted where early vegetables have been grown4 ,set the plants from #ah to #bd inches apart in the row1 the rows being #c feet apart for the medium-growing kinds4 ,one ounce of seed will furnish about #bjjj plants4 ,all cabbages require deep and rich soil1 and one that holds moisture well4 ,regular cultivation should be given so that moisture may be saved and the growth be continuous4 ,for early planting1 the number of varieties is limited to three or four4 ,for an intermediate crop the list is more extended1 and the late varieties are very numerous4 ,the early list is headed by the ,jersey ,wakefield1 a variety that heads very quickly1 and1 although not one of the solid kinds1 is generally grown4 ,the ,early ,york and ,winnigstadt are good varieties to follow it4 ,the latter especially is solid and of very good quality4 ,for the midseason1 the ,succession and ,all ,season are of the best1 and for the winter supply the ,drumhead1 ,danish ,ball1 and ,flat ,dutch types are leaders4 ,one of the best of the cabbages for table use is seldom seen in the garden--the ,savoy cabbage4 ,it is a type with netted leaves1 making a large1 low-growing head1 the center of which is very solid and of excellent flavor1 especially late in the fall1 when the heads have had a slight touch of frost4 ,savoy should be grown in every private garden4 ,the best remedy for the cabbage worm is to kill the first brood on the very young plants with ,paris green4 ,after the plants begin to head1 pyrethrum1 kerosene emulsion1 or salt water may be used4 ,on a small area1 hand-picking may be recommended 7p4 #bjj74 ,the maggot is the most serious cabbage pest4 ,after studying the seventy odd remedies proposed1 ,slingerland concludes that six are efficient and practicable3 growing the young plants in closely covered frames2 tarred paper cards placed snugly about the base of the plants to keep the fly away2 rubbing the eggs from the base of the plant2 hand-picking of the maggots2 treating the plants with emulsion of carbolic acid2 treating them with carbon bisulfide4 ,the insecticidal materials are injected or poured into the soil about the base of the plant 7pp4 #ahg1 #bja74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bii4 ,a method of storing cabbages4 ,the club-root1 which causes the roots to become greatly thickened and distorted1 is difficult to manage if cabbages or allied plants are grown continuously on land in which diseased plants have been raised4 ,changing the location of the cabbage or cauliflower patch is the best procedure4 ,if very different crops1 as corn1 potatoes1 peas1 tomatoes1 are grown on the land1 the disease will be starved out in two or three years 7p4 #bjh74 ,there are many ways of storing cabbages for winter and spring use1 none of which are uniformly successful4 ,the general subject is discussed on p4 #aeh4 ,on this point ,t4 ,greiner writes as follows3 8,i have heretofore piled a lot of cabbages cut from the stump in a conical heap in the field1 and covered them with clusters of the outer leaves cut off with a piece of the stump4 ,the leaves are carefully placed over the heap in shingle fashion1 so as to shed water4 ,cabbages thus piled and covered may be left out until real winter weather sets in4 ,but ,i find that slugs and earthworms frequently infest the cabbages thus stored1 and do a good deal of damage4 ,it might be well to place a solid floor of lime or salt upon the ground1 and then pack the cabbages upon this4 ,if to be left out after severe freezing has set in1 one should put additional covering1 such as straw1 corn-stalks or marsh hay1 over the whole heap40 ,mr4 ,burpee's little book1 #8,cabbage and ,cauliflower for ,profit1' written by ,j4,m4 ,lupton1 a prominent cabbage-grower1 suggests the following plan for early winter sales3 8,take the cabbages up with the roots on1 and store in well-ventilated cellars1 where they will keep till mid-winter4 ,or stack them in some sheltered position about the barn1 placing one above the other in tiers1 with the roots inside1 and covering deeply with seaweed2 or if this cannot be obtained1 something like cornstalks may be used to keep them from the weather as much as possible 7,fig4 #bii74 ,when thus stored1 they may be obtained any time during the winter when prices are favorable40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjj4 ,a half-long carrot4 ,carrot4--,while essentially a farm crop in this country1 the carrot is nevertheless a most acceptable garden vegetable4 ,it is hardy and easily grown4 ,the extra-early varieties may be forced in a hotbed1 or seed may be sown as soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring4 ,the stump-rooted1 or half-long varieties 7,fig4 #cjj71 are sown for the general garden crop4 ,well-enriched1 mellow loam1 deeply dug or plowed1 is best suited to the requirements of carrots4 ,the seed for the main crop may be sown as late as ,july #a4 ,sow thickly1 thinning to #c to #d inches in the row4 ,the rows1 if in a garden that is hand-worked1 may be #ab inches apart4 ,if the cultivation is performed with a horse1 the rows should be from #b to #c feet apart4 ,one ounce will sow #ajj feet of drill4 ,cauliflower4--,this is the choicest of all vegetables of the cabbage group1 and its culture is much the most difficult4 ,while the special requirements are few1 they must be fully met if good results are to be expected4 ,the general culture of cauliflower is much like that of cabbage1 except that the cauliflower1 being more tender1 should be more thoroughly hardened off before setting out1 the heads must be protected from hot suns1 the plants must never suffer for moisture1 and the greatest care must be taken to secure only highly bred seeds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cja4 ,cauliflower head with leaves trimmed off4 ,it is essential that the plants be set out as early as possible1 as the warm weather of ,june causes them to make imperfect heads unless the soil is filled with moisture4 ,no garden crop will so well repay the cost and time of thorough irrigation1 either by running the water between the rows or applying it directly to the plants4 ,when it is impossible to furnish water and there is danger of losing the soil moisture1 it is a good plan to mulch heavily with straw or some other substance4 ,this mulch1 if put on just after a heavy rain1 will hold the moisture for a long time4 ,cauliflower prospers best in a cool climate4 ,when the heads begin to form1 the outside leaves may be brought together and tied above the head1 excluding the direct sunshine and keeping the head white and tender4 ,fig4 #cja shows a good head4 ,no vegetable will respond more quickly to good culture and well-manured soil than the cauliflower1 and none will prove such an utter failure when neglected4 ,it is imperative that care be taken to destroy all the cabbage worms before the leaves are tied in1 as after that it will be impossible to see or reach them4 ,from #ajjj to #aejj plants may be grown from #a ounce of seed4 ,good cauliflower seed is very expensive4 ,for winter crop1 seeds may be started in ,june or ,july1 as for late cabbage4 ,erfurt1 ,snowball1 and ,paris are popular early varieties4 ,nonpareil and ,algiers are good late kinds4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjb4 ,celeriac or turnip-rooted celery4 ,celeriac4--,a form of the celery plant in which the tuberous root is the edible part 7,fig4 #cjb74 ,the tuber has the celery flavor in a pronounced degree1 and is used for flavoring soups and for celery salad4 ,it may be served raw1 sliced in vinegar and oil1 or boiled4 ,the culture is the same as given for celery1 except that no earthing or blanching is required4 ,about an equal number of plants are obtained from the same weight of seed as from celery seed4 ,celeriac is extensively used abroad1 but1 unfortunately1 little known in ,america4 ,celery4--,although celery has now become a staple vegetable with all classes of people1 the home-gardener is likely not to attempt its culture2 yet it is not difficult to raise in small quantities in most any good garden land4 ,while the commercial celery is largely grown on reclaimed swamp lands1 such areas are not at all essential to its cultivation4 ,the self-blanching varieties have simplified the culture of celery so that the amateur1 as well as the expert1 may have a good supply at least six months of the year4 ,the so-called new culture1 which consists of setting the plants close together and causing them to shade each other1 can be recommended for the garden when a supply of well-rotted manure is to had1 and when any amount of water is available4 ,this method is as follows3 ,fork or spade into the soil a large quantity of manure to the depth of #aj to #ab inches2 pulverize the soil until the ground for the depth of #d to #f inches is in very fine condition4 ,then set the plants in rows #aj inches apart and the plants but #e or #f inches apart in the rows4 ,it will be seen that plants set as close as this will soon fill the soil with a mass of roots and must have large amounts of plant-food1 as well as a large quantity of water2 and the making of such a bed can be recommended only to those who can supply these needs4 ,the common practice in home gardens is to plow or dig a shallow trench1 setting the plants in the bottom and hoeing in the soil as the plants grow4 ,the distance apart of the rows and plants will depend on the varieties4 ,for the dwarf varieties1 such as ,white ,plume1 ,golden ,self-blanching1 and others of this type1 the rows may be as close as #c feet and the plants #f inches in the rows4 ,for the large-growing varieties1 as ,kalamazoo1 ,giant ,pascal1 and1 in fact1 most of the late varieties1 the rows may be #d #a_/b to #e feet apart and the plants #g or #h inches in the row4 ,the seed for an early crop should be sown in ,february or early in ,march in shallow boxes1 which may be placed in a hotbed or sunny window1 or sown directly in the soil of a hotbed4 ,cover the seeds thinly and press the soil firmly over them4 ,when the seedling plants are about #a inch high1 they should be transplanted to other boxes or hotbeds1 setting the plants #a inch apart in rows #c inches apart4 ,at this transplanting1 as with the following ones1 the tall leaves should be cut or pinched off1 leaving only the upright growth1 as with the utmost care it is almost impossible to prevent the outside leafstalks from wilting down and dying4 ,the roots should also be trimmed back at each transplanting in order to increase the feeding roots4 ,the plants should be set as deep as possible1 care being taken1 however1 not to allow the heart of the plant to be covered up4 ,the varieties usually grown for an early crop are the so-called self-blanching varieties4 ,they may be made fit for the table with much less labor than the late crop1 the shade required to blanch the stalks being much less4 ,when only a few short rows are grown in a private garden1 screens of lath may be made by driving stakes on each side of the row and tacking lath on1 leaving spaces of an inch or more for the light to enter2 or each head may be wrapped in paper1 or a tile drain pipe may be set over the plant4 ,in fact1 any material that will exclude the light will render the stalks white and brittle4 ,the seed for the main or fall crop should be sown in ,april or early ,may in a seed-bed prepared by forking short well-rotted manure into a fine soil1 sowing the seed thinly in rows #h or #aj inches apart1 covering the seed lightly and firming over the seed with the feet1 hoe1 or back of a spade4 ,this seed-bed should be kept moist at all times until the seed germinates1 either by close attention to watering or by a lath screen4 ,the use of a piece of cloth laid directly on the soil1 and the bed wet through the cloth1 is often recommended1 and if the cloth is always wet and taken off the bed as soon as the seed sprouts1 it may be used4 ,after the young plants have grown to the height of #a or #b inches they must be thinned out1 leaving the plants so that they do not touch each other1 and transplanting those thinned--if wanted--to other ground prepared in the same manner as the seed-bed4 ,all these plants may be sheared or cut back to induce stockiness4 ,an ounce of seed will furnish about three thousand plants4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjc4 ,storing celery in a trench in the field4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjd4 ,a celery pit4 ,if in a private garden1 the ground on which the fall crop is usually set will likely be that from which a crop of some early vegetable has been taken4 ,this land should be again well enriched with fine1 well-rotted manure1 to which may be added a liberal quantity of wood ashes4 ,if the manure or ashes is not easily obtained1 a small amount may be used by plowing or digging out a furrow #h or #ab inches deep1 scattering the manure and ashes in the bottom of the trench and filling it up almost level with the surface4 ,the plants should be set about the middle of ,july1 preferably just before a rain4 ,the plant bed should have a thorough soaking shortly before the plants are lifted1 and each plant be trimmed1 both top and root1 before setting4 ,the plants should be set from #e to #f inches apart in the rows and the earth well firmed around each one4 ,the after-cultivation consists in thorough tillage until the time of 8handling0 or earthing up the plants4 ,this process of handling is accomplished by drawing up the earth with one hand while holding the plant with the other1 packing the soil well around the stalks4 ,this process may be continued until only the leaves are to be seen4 ,for the private grower1 it is much easier to blanch the celery with boards or paper1 or if the celery is not wanted until winter1 the plants may be dug up1 packed closely in boxes1 covering the roots with soil1 and placed in a dark1 cool cellar1 where the stalks will blanch themselves4 ,in this way celery may be stored in boxes in the house cellar4 ,put earth in the bottom of a deep box1 and plant the celery in it4 ,celery is sometimes stored in trenches in the open 7,fig4 #cjc71 the roots being transplanted to such places in late fall4 ,the plants are set close together and the trenches are covered with boards4 ,a wider trench or pit may be made 7,fig4 #cjd7 and covered with a shed roof4 ,chard1 or ,swiss chard1--is a development of the beet species characterized by large succulent leafstalks instead of enlarged roots4 7,fig4 #cje74 ,the leaves are very tender and make 8greens0 much like young beets4 ,they are cultivated exactly like beets4 ,only one variety is offered by most seedsmen in this country1 though in ,france and ,germany several varieties are grown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cje4 ,swiss chard4 ,chicory is grown for two purposes1--for the roots and for the herbage4 8,barbe de capucin0 is a salad made from young shoots of chicory4 ,the ,magdeburg chicory is the variety usually spoken of1 it being the one most extensively grown4 ,the roots of this1 after being ground and roasted1 are used either as a substitute or an adulterant for coffee4 ,the ,witloof1 a form of chicory1 is used as a salad1 or boiled and served in the same manner as cauliflower4 ,the plants should be thinned to #f inches4 ,in the latter part of summer they should be banked up like celery1 and the leaves used after becoming white and tender4 ,this and the common wild chicory are often dug in the fall1 the leaves cut off1 the roots packed in sand in a cellar and watered until a new growth of leaves starts4 ,these leaves grow rapidly and are very tender1 making a fine salad vegetable4 ,one packet of seed of the ,witloof will furnish plants enough for a large family4 ,chervil4--,the chervil is grown in two forms1--for the leaves1 and for the tuberous roots4 ,the curled chervil is a good addition to the list of garnishing and seasoning vegetables4 ,sow seeds and cultivate the same as parsley4 ,the tuberous chervil resembles a short carrot or parnsip4 ,it is much esteemed in ,france and ,germany4 ,the tubers have somewhat the flavor of a sweet potato1 perhaps a little sweeter4 ,they are perfectly hardy1 and1 like the parsnip1 the better for frosts4 ,the seed may be sown in ,september or ,october1 as it does not keep well2 or as soon as the ground is fit to work in the spring1 it being slow to germinate after the weather becomes hot and dry4 ,one packet of seed will give all the plants necessary for a family4 ,,xxiv4 ,golden bantam sweet corn4 ,,xxiv4 ,golden bantam sweet corn4 ,collards4--,this is a name given to a kind of kale1 used when young as greens2 also to young cabbages used in the same way4 ,the seed of any early cabbage may be sown thickly in rows #ah inches apart1 from early spring to late fall4 ,the plants are cut off when #f or #h inches high and boiled as are other greens4 ,the kale1 or ,georgia collards1 is grown in the ,south1 where cabbages fail to head4 ,it grows to the height of #b to #f feet1 furnishing a large quantity of leaves4 ,the young leaves and tufts that arise as the old leaves are pulled off make excellent greens4 ,cives4--,a small perennial of the onion family1 used for flavoring4 ,it is propagated by division of the root4 ,it may be planted in a permanent place in the border1 and1 being completely hardy1 will remain for years4 ,the leaves are the parts used1 as the roots are very rank in flavor4 ,the leaves may be cut frequently1 as they readily grow again4 ,corn salad4--,this is one of the earliest spring salad vegetables1 coming into condition with spinach1 and needing the same culture4 ,sown in the fall1 and covered with straw or hay when cold weather sets in1 it will start into rapid growth when the covering is removed in ,march or ,april4 ,or the seed may be sown in early spring1 and plants will be fit to use in six or eight weeks4 ,one packet of seed will suffice for a small family4 ,corn1 sweet or sugar4--,this is the characteristic ,american table vegetable1 and one that every home-gardener expects to grow4 ,too often1 however1 only one planting of one kind is made4 ,the ears come to edible maturity almost simultaneously1 and a short season is the result4 ,the first planting of sweet corn should be made from ,may #a to #aj1 planting early1 intermediate1 and late varieties at the same time1 then at intervals of two weeks until the middle of ,july1 when the late varieties should be planted1 thus having a succession from the first crop until ,october4 ,the soil for corn should be fertile and 8quick40 ,the coarser manure left from the preparation of the ground for small crops may be used to good advantage4 ,corn for the garden is better planted in drills1 the drills #c feet apart1 dropping the seed from #aj to #ab inches apart in the drills4 ,one quart of seed will plant #bjj hills4 ,for extra early1 ,marblehead1 ,adams1 ,vermont1 ,minnesota1 and ,early ,corey are favorites4 ,a most excellent extra early yellow sweet corn1 with kernels looking like small field corn1 is ,golden ,bantam2 the ears are small and would probably not attract the market buyer1 but for home use the variety is unexcelled 7,plate ,,xxiv74 ,for later crop1 ,crosby1 ,hickox1 ,shoe ,peg1 and ,stowell ,evergreen are now popular4 ,cress4--,two very unlike species of plants are grown under the name of cress1--the upland-cress and the water-cress4 ,there are still other species1 but not much known in this country4 ,the upland cress1 or the true pepper grass1 may be grown on any garden soil4 ,sow early in the spring4 ,it makes a rapid growth and can be cut in from four to five weeks4 ,succession of sowings must be made1 as it runs quickly to seed4 ,the curled variety is the one usually grown1 as the leaves may be used for garnishing as well as for salads4 ,one packet of seed will be sufficient for each sowing4 ,any good soil will do4 ,sow thickly in drills #ab to #ah inches apart4 ,in summer it runs to seed quickly1 so that it is usually grown in spring and fall4 ,the water-cress is more exacting in its culture1 and can be successfully grown only in moist places1 such as edges of shallow slow-running creeks1 open drains1 or beds excavated near such streams4 ,a few plants for private use may be grown in a frame1 provided a retentive soil is used and attention given to watering the bed often4 ,watercress may be propagated from pieces of the stem1 used as cuttings4 ,if one is fond of water-cress1 it is well to colonize it in some clean creek or pool4 ,it will take care of itself year by year4 ,seeds may also be used for propagating it4 ,cucumber4--,the custom of putting down cucumber pickles in the home kitchen is probably passing out2 but both the pickling and the slicing cucumbers1 especially the latter1 are still an essential part of a good home garden4 ,a stale or wilted cucumber is a very poor article of food4 ,for early use1 the cucumber is usually started in a hotbed or coldframe by sowing the seed on pieces of sod #d to #f inches square1 turned grass side down4 ,three or four seeds are placed on or pushed into each piece of sod and covered with #a to #b inches of fine soil4 ,the soil should be well watered and the glass or cloth placed over the frame4 ,the roots will run through the sod4 ,when the plants are large enough to set out1 a flat trowel or a shingle may be slipped under the sod and the plants moved to the hill without check4 ,in place of sod1 old quart berry-boxes are good2 after setting in the hill the roots may force their way through the cracks in the baskets4 ,the baskets also decay rapidly4 ,flower-pots may be used4 ,these plants from the frames may be set out when danger of frost is over1 usually by the #ajth of ,may1 and should make a very rapid growth1 yielding good-sized fruits in two months4 ,the hills should be made rich by forking in a quantity of well-rotted manure1 and given a slight elevation above the garden--not high enough to allow the wind to dry the soil1 but slightly raised so that water will not stand around the roots4 ,the main crop is grown from seed planted directly in the open1 and the plants are grown under level culture4 ,one ounce of seed will plant fifty hills of cucumbers4 ,the hills may be #d to #e feet apart each way4 ,the ,white ,spine is the leading general-purpose variety4 ,for very early or pickling sorts1 the ,chicago1 ,russian1 and other picklings are good4 ,the striped beetle is an inveterate pest on cucumbers and squashes 7see page #bja74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjf4 ,west ,indian gherkin 7,cucumis ,anguria74 ,the name gherkin is applied to small pickling cucumbers4 ,the ,west ,india gherkin is a wholly distinct species1 but is grown like cucumbers4 7,fig4 #cjf47 ,dandelion4--,under domestication the dandelion has been developed until quite unrecognizable to the casual observer4 ,the plants attain a large size and the leaves are much more tender4 ,sow in spring in well-manured soil1 either in drills or in hills #a foot apart4 ,a cutting of leaves may be had in ,september or ,october1 and some of the stools may stand until spring4 ,the delicacy of the leaves may be improved by blanching them1 either by the use of boards or earth4 ,one trade packet of seed will supply a sufficient number for a family4 ,the whole plant is destroyed when the crop of leaves is taken4 ,the seed may be selected from the best field-grown plants1 but it is better to buy the ,french seed of the seedsmen4 ,egg-plant4--,the egg-plant or guinea squash has never become a popular home-garden product in the ,north4 ,in the ,south it is better known4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjg4 ,black ,pekin egg-plant4 ,unless one has a greenhouse or a very warm hotbed1 the growing of egg-plants in the ,north should be left to the professional gardener1 as the young plants are very tender1 and should be grown without a check4 ,the seed should be sown in the hotbed or the greenhouse about ,april #aj1 keeping a temperature of #fe to #gj4 ,when the seedlings have made three rough leaves1 they may be pricked out into shallow boxes1 or1 still better1 into #c-;inch pots4 ,the pots or boxes should be plunged to the rim in soil in a hotbed or coldframe so situated that protection may be given on chilly nights4 ,the #ajth of ,june is early enough to plant them out in central ,new ,york4 ,the soil in which egg-plants are to grow cannot well be made too 8quick10 as they have only a short season in which to develop their fruits4 ,the plants are usually set #c feet apart each way4 ,a dozen plants are sufficient for the needs of a large family1 as each plant should yield from two to six large fruits4 ,the fruits are fit to eat at all stages of growth1 from those the size of a large egg to their largest development4 ,one ounce of seed will furnish #fjj to #hjj plants4 ,the ,new ,york ,improved ,purple is the standard variety4 ,black ,pekin 7,fig4 #cjg7 is good4 ,for early1 or for a short-season climate1 the ,early ,dwarf ,purple is excellent4 ,endive4--,one of the best fall salad vegetables1 being far superior to lettuce at that time and as easily grown4 ,for fall use1 the seed may be sown from ,june to ,august1 and as the plants become fit to eat about the same time from sowing as lettuce does1 a succession may be had until cold weather4 ,the plants will need protection from the severe fall frosts1 and this may be given by carefully lifting the plants and transplanting to a frame1 where sash or cloth may be used to cover them in freezing weather4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cjh4 ,endive tied up4 ,the leaves1 which constitute practically the whole plant1 are blanched before being used1 either by tying together with some soft material 7,fig4 #cjh7 or by standing boards on each side of the row1 allowing the top of the boards to meet over the center of the row4 ,tie the leaves only when they are dry4 ,the rows should be #a-a_/b or #b feet apart1 the plants #a foot apart in the rows4 ,one ounce of seed will sow #aej feet of drill4 ,garlic4--,an onion-like plant1 the bulbs of which are used for flavoring4 ,garlic is little known in this country except amongst those of foreign birth4 ,it is multiplied the same as multiplier onions--the bulb is broken apart and each bulbule or 8clove0 makes a new compound bulb in a few weeks4 ,hardy2 plant in early spring1 or in the ,south in the fall4 ,plant #b to #c inches apart in the row4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cji4 ,a good horseradish root4 ,horseradish4--,widely used as an appetizer1 and now grown commercially4 ,as a kitchen-garden vegetable1 this is usually planted in some out-of-the-way spot and a piece of the root dug as often as needed1 the fragments of roots being left in the soil to grow for further use4 ,this method results in having nothing but tough1 stringy roots1 very unlike the product of a properly planted and well-cared-for bed4 ,a good horseradish root should be straight and shapely 7,fig4 #cji74 ,the best horseradish is secured from sets planted in the spring at the time of setting early cabbage1 and dug as late the same fall as the weather will permit4 ,it becomes1 therefore1 an annual crop4 ,the roots for planting are small pieces1 from #d to #f inches long1 obtained when trimming the roots dug in the fall4 ,these pieces may be packed in sand and stored until wanted the following spring4 ,in planting1 the roots should be set with the upper end #c inches below the surface of the ground1 using a dibber or sharp-pointed stick in making the holes4 ,the crop may be planted between rows of early-sown beets1 lettuce1 or other crop1 and given full possession of the ground when these crops are harvested4 ,when the ground is inclined to be stiff or the subsoil is near the surface1 the roots may be set in a slanting position4 ,in fact1 many gardeners practice this method of planting1 thinking that the roots make a better growth and are more uniform in size4 ,kale4--,under this name1 a great variety of cabbage-tribe plants is grown1 some of them reaching a height of several feet4 ,usually1 however1 the name is applied to a low-growing1 spreading plant1 extensively used for winter and spring greens4 ,the culture given to late cabbage is suitable4 ,at the approach of severe freezing weather a slight protection is given in the ,north4 ,the leaves remain green through the winter and may be gathered from under the snow at a time when material for greens is scarce4 ,some of the kales are very ornamental because of their blue and purple curled foliage4 ,the ,scotch ,curled is the most popular variety4 ,let the plants stand #ah to #cj inches apart4 ,young cabbage plants are sometimes used as kale4 ,collards and borecole are kinds of kale4 ,sea-kale is a wholly different vegetable 7which see74 ,kales are extensively grown at ,norfolk1 ,va41 and southward1 and shipped ,north in winter1 the plants being started in late summer or in fall4 ,kohlrabi is little known in the ,united ,states4 ,it looks like a leafy turnip growing above ground4 ,if used when small 7#b to #c inches in diameter71 and not allowed to become hard and tough1 it is of superior quality4 ,it should be more generally grown4 ,the culture is very simple4 ,a succession of sowings should be made from early spring until the middle of summer1 in drills #ah inches to #b feet apart1 thinning the young plants to #f or #h inches in the rows4 ,it matures as quickly as turnips4 ,one ounce of seed to #ajj feet of drill4 ,leek4--,the leek is little grown in this country except by persons of foreign extraction4 ,the plant is one of the onion family1 and is used mostly as flavoring for soups4 ,well-grown leeks have a very agreeable and not very strong onion flavor4 ,leek is of the easiest culture1 and is usually grown as a second crop1 to follow beets1 early peas1 and other early stuff4 ,the seed should be sown in a seed-bed in ,april or early ,may and the seedlings planted out in the garden in ,july1 in rows #b feet apart1 the plants being #f inches apart in the rows4 ,the plants should be set deep if the neck or lower part of the leaves is to be used in a blanched condition4 ,the soil may be drawn towards the plants in hoeing1 to further the blanching4 ,being very hardy1 the plants may be dug in late fall1 and stored the same as celery1 in trenches or in a cool root-cellar4 ,one ounce of seed to #ajj feet of drill4 ,lettuce is the most extensively grown salad vegetable4 ,it is now in demand1 and is procurable1 every month in the year4 ,the winter and early spring crops are grown in forcing-houses and coldframes1 but a supply from the garden may be had from ,april to ,november1 by the use of a cheap frame in which to grow the first and last crops1 relying on a succession of sowings for the intermediate supply4 ,seed for the first crop may be sown in a coldframe in ,march1 growing the crop thick and having many plants which are small and tender2 or1 by thinning out to the distance of #c inches and allowing the plants to make a larger growth1 the plants pulled up may be set in the open ground for the next crop4 ,sowings should be made in the garden from ,april to ,october1 at short intervals4 ,a moist location should be chosen for the ,july and ,august sowings4 ,the early and late sowings should be of some loose-growing variety1 as they are in edible condition sooner than the cabbage or heading varieties4 ,the cabbage varieties are far superior to the loose-growing kinds for salads4 ,to be grown to perfection1 they should have very rich soil1 frequent cultivation1 and an occasional stimulant1 such as liquid manure or nitrate of soda4 ,the cos lettuce is an upright-growing type much esteemed in ,europe1 but less grown here4 ,the leaves of the full-grown plants are tied together1 thus blanching the center1 making it a desirable salad or garnishing variety4 ,it thrives best in summer4 ,one ounce of seed will grow #cjjj plants or sow #ajj feet of drill4 ,in the garden1 plants may stand #f inches apart in the rows1 and the rows may be as close together as the system of tillage will allow4 ,mushroom4--,sooner or later1 the novice wants to grow mushrooms4 ,while it is easy to describe the conditions under which they may be grown1 it does not follow that a crop may be predicted with any certainty4 ,latterly1 careful studies have been made of the growing of mushrooms from spores and of the principles involved in the making of spawn1 with the hope of reducing the whole subject of mushroom growing to a rational basis4 ,a good idea of this work may be had by reading ,duggar's contribution on the subject in ,bulletin #he of the ,bureau of ,plant ,industry1 ,united ,states ,department of ,agriculture4 ,in this place1 however1 we may confine ourselves to the customary horticultural practice4 ,the following paragraphs are from 8,farmers' ,bulletin10 ,no4 #ec 7by ,william ,falconer71 of the ,u4,s4 ,dept4 of ,agriculture 7,march1 #ahig73-- ,mushrooms are a winter crop1 coming in from ,september till ,april or ,may--that is1 the work of preparing the manure begins in ,september and ends in ,february1 and the packing of the crop begins in ,october or ,november and ends in ,may4 ,under extraordinary conditions the season may begin earlier and last longer1 and1 in fact1 it may continue all summer4 ,mushrooms can be grown almost anywhere out of doors1 and also indoors where there is a dry bottom in which to set the beds1 where a uniform and moderate temperature can be maintained1 and where the beds can be protected from wet overhead1 and from winds1 drought1 and direct sunshine4 ,among the most desirable places in which to grow mushrooms are barns1 cellars1 closed tunnels1 sheds1 pits1 greenhouses1 and regular mushroom houses4 ,total darkness is not imperative1 for mushrooms grow well in open light if shaded from sunshine4 ,the temperature and moisture are more apt to be equable in dark places than in open1 light ones1 and it is largely for this reason that mushroom houses are kept dark4 ,the best fertilizer for mushrooms1 so far as the writer's experience goes1 is fresh horse manure4 ,get together a lot of this material 7short and strawy7 that has been well trampled and wetted in the stable4 ,throw it into a heap1 wet it well if it is at all dry1 and let it heat4 ,when it begins to steam1 turn it over1 shake it well so as to mix thoroughly and evenly1 and then tramp it down solid4 ,after this let it stand till it again gets quite warm2 then turn1 shake1 trample as before1 and add water freely if it is getting dry4 ,repeat this turning1 moistening1 and trampling as often as it is needful to keep the manure from 8burning40 ,if it gets intensely hot1 spread it out to cool1 after which again throw it together4 ,after being turned in this way several times1 and the heat in it is not apt to rise above #acj ,f41 it should be ready to make up in the beds4 ,by adding to the manure at the second or third turning one-fourth or one-fifth of its bulk of loam1 the tendency to intense heating is lessened and its usefulness not at all impaired4 ,some growers prefer short manure exclusively1 that is1 the horse droppings1 while others like a good deal of straw mixed in with this4 ,the writer's experience1 however1 is that1 if properly prepared1 it matters little which is used4 ,ordinarily the beds are only #h to #aj inches deep2 that is1 they are faced with #aj-;inch-wide hemlock boards1 and are only the depth of this board4 ,in such beds put a layer of fresh1 moist1 hot manure1 and trample it down firm until it constitutes half the depth of the bed2 then fill up with the prepared manure1 which should be rather cool 7#ajj to #aae;,f47 when used1 and pack all firmly4 ,if desired1 the beds can be made up entirely of the prepared manure4 ,shelf beds are usually #i inches deep2 that is1 the shelf is bottomed with #a-;inch boards and faced with #aj-;inch wide boards4 ,this allows about #h inches for manure1 and #a inch rising to #b inches of loam on top4 ,in filling the shelf beds the bottom half may be of fresh1 moist or wettish1 hot manure1 packed down solid1 and the top half of rather cool prepared manure1 or it may be made up of all prepared manure4 ,as the shelf beds cannot be trodden and cannot be beaten very firm with the back of the fork1 a brick is used in addition to the fork4 ,the beds should be spawned after the heat in them has fallen below #ajj ,f4 ,the writer considers #ij ,f4 about the best temperature for spawning4 ,if the beds have been covered with hay1 straw1 litter1 or mats1 these should be removed4 ,break each brick into twelve or fifteen pieces4 ,the rows should be1 say1 #a foot apart1 the first one being #f inches from the edge1 and the pieces should be #i inches apart in the row4 ,commencing with the first row1 lift up each piece1 raise #b to #c inches of the manure with the hand1 and into this hole place the piece1 covering over tightly with the manure4 ,when the entire bed is spawned1 pack the surface all over4 ,it is well to cover the beds again with straw1 hay1 or mats1 to keep the surface equally moist4 ,the flake spawn is planted in the same way as the brick spawn1 only not quite so deep4 ,at the end of eight or nine days the mulching should be removed and the beds covered with a layer of good loam #b inches thick1 so that the mushrooms can come up in and through it4 ,this gives them a firm hold1 and to a large extent improves their quality and texture4 ,any fair loam will do4 ,that from an ordinary field1 wayside1 or garden is generally used1 and it answers admirably4 ,there exists an idea that garden soil surfeited with old manure is unfit for mushroom beds because it is apt to produce spurious fungi4 ,this1 however1 is not the case4 ,in fact1 it is the earth most commonly used4 ,for molding the beds the loam should be rather fine1 free1 and mellow1 so that it can be easily and evenly spread and compacted firmly into the manure4 ,if an even atmospheric temperature of from #ee to #fj ,f4 can be maintained1 and the house or cellar containing the mushroom beds is kept close and free from drafts1 the beds may be left uncovered1 and should be watered if they become dry4 ,but no matter where the beds are situated1 it is well to lay some loose hay or straw or some old matting or carpet over them to keep them moist4 ,the covering1 however1 should be removed just as soon as the young mushrooms begin to appear above ground4 ,if the atmosphere is dry1 the pathways and walls should be sprinkled with water4 ,the mulching should also be sprinkled1 but not enough to cause the water to soak into the bed4 ,however1 if the bed should get dry1 do not hesitate to water it4 ,mustard4--,almost all the mustards are good for greens1 though white mustard is usually best4 ,chinese mustard is also valuable4 ,seed should be sown in drills1 #c to #c-a_/b feet apart1 and covered with a half inch of soil4 ,the ease with which they may be grown1 and the abundance of herbage which they yield1 mark their special utility4 ,sow very early for spring greens1 and in late summer or early ,september for fall greens4 ,muskmelon4--,the most delicious of all garden vegetables eaten from the hand1 and of simple cultivation2 but like many another plant that is easy to grow it often fails completely4 ,the season and soil must be warm and the growth continuous4 ,the natural soil for melons is a light1 sandy loam1 well enriched with rotted manure1 although good crops may be grown on land naturally heavy if the hills are specially prepared4 ,when only heavy soil is available1 the earth where the seeds are to be planted should be thoroughly pulverized and mixed with fine1 well-rotted manure4 ,a sprinkling of leafmold or chip-dirt will help to lighten it4 ,on this hill from ten to fifteen seeds may be sown1 thinning to four or five vines when danger of insects is over4 ,the season may be advanced and the damage from insects lessened by starting the plants in hotbeds4 ,this may be done by using fresh sod1 cut into #f-;inch pieces1 placing them grass-side down in the hotbed1 sowing eight to ten seeds on each piece1 and covering with #b inches of light soil4 ,when all danger of frost is over1 and the ground has become warm1 these sods may be carefully lifted and set in the prepared hills4 ,the plants usually grow without check1 and fruit from two to four weeks ahead of those from seed planted directly in the hill4 ,old quart berry-boxes are excellent to plant seeds in1 as1 when they are set in the ground1 they very quickly decay1 causing no restriction to the roots4 ,netted ,gem1 ,hackensack1 ,emerald ,gem1 ,montreal1 ,osage1 and the ,nutmeg melon are popular varieties4 ,one ounce of seed will plant about fifty hills4 ,okra4--,a plant of the cotton family1 from the green pods of which is made the well-known gumbo soup of the ,south1 where the plant is more extensively grown than in the ,north4 ,the pods are also used in their green state for stews1 and are dried and used in winter1 when they are nutritious1 and form no little part of the diet in certain sections of the country4 ,the seeds are very sensitive to cold and moisture1 and should not be sown until the ground has become warm--the last week in ,may or the first of ,june being early enough in ,new ,york4 ,the seed should be sown in a drill #a inch deep1 the plants thinned to stand #ab inches in the row4 ,give the same culture as for corn4 ,one ounce will sow #dj feet of drill4 ,dwarf varieties are best for the ,north4 ,green ,density and ,velvet are leading varieties4 ,onion4--,a few onions1 of one kind or another1 give character to every good kitchen-garden4 ,they are grown from seeds 78black seed07 for the main crop4 ,they are also grown from sets 7which are very small onions1 arrested in their development72 from 8tops0 7which are bulblets produced in the place of flowers72 and from multipliers or potato onions1 which are compound bulbs4 ,the extremely early crop of onions is grown from sets1 and the late or fall crop is grown from seed sown in ,april or early ,may4 ,the sets may be saved from the crop harvested the previous fall1 saving no bulbs measuring over three-fourths of an inch in diameter1 or1 better1 they may be purchased from the seedsman4 ,these sets should be planted as early as possible in the spring1 preferably on land that has been manured and trenched in the fall4 ,plant in rows #ab inches apart1 the sets being #b or #c inches in the row4 ,push the sets well down into the ground and cover with soil1 firming them with the feet or a roller4 ,in cultivating1 the soil should be thrown towards the tops1 as the white stems are usually sought as an indication of mildness4 ,the crop will be in condition to use in three to four weeks1 and may be made to last until small seed onions are to be had4 ,tops or multipliers may also be used for the early crop4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #caj4 ,bunch onions1 grown from seed4 ,in growing onions from seed1 it is only necessary to say that the seed should be in the ground very early in order that the bulbs make their growth before the extreme hot weather of ,august1 when1 for want of moisture and because of the heat1 the bulbs will ripen up while small4 ,early in ,april1 in ,new ,york1 if the ground is in condition1 the seed should be sown thickly in drills from #ab to #af inches apart1 and the ground above the seeds well firmed4 ,good cultivation and constant weeding is the price of a good crop of onions4 ,in cultivating and hoeing1 the soil should be kept away from the rows1 not covering the growing bulbs1 but allowing them to spread over the surface of the ground4 ,when the crop is ready to be harvested1 the bulbs may be pulled or cultivated up1 left to dry in double rows for several days1 the tops and roots taken off1 and the bulbs stored in a dry place4 ,later in the season they may be allowed to freeze1 covering with chaff or straw to hold them frozen1 and kept until early spring2 but this method is usually unsafe with beginners1 and always so in a changeable climate4 ,onion seed should always be fresh when sown--preferably of the last year's crop4 ,one ounce of onion seed will sow #ajj feet of drill4 ,one of the recent methods of securing extra large and also early bulbs from seed is to sow the seed in a hotbed in ,february or early ,march1 and transplant to the open ground in ,april4 ,a bunch of onions1 for eating from hand1 is shown in ,fig4 #caj4 ,the ,danvers1 ,prizetaker1 ,globe1 and ,wethersfield are favorite varieties1 with the addition of ,white ,queen or ,barletta for pickling4 ,parsley4--,this is the most universal of garnishes4 ,it is used also as a flavoring in soups4 ,the seed is slow to germinate1 and often the second or third sowing is made1 thinking the first is a failure2 but usually after what would seem a long time the young plants will be seen4 ,when sown in the open ground1 it should be thinned to stand #c or #d inches in the row1 the rows being #aj to #ab inches apart4 ,a few plants in a border will give a supply for a large family1 and with a little protection will live over winter4 ,roots may be lifted in the fall1 put into boxes or old cans1 and grown in a sunny window for winter use4 ,the ,curled parsley is the form commonly used4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #caa4 ,the ,student parsnip1 a leading variety ,parsnip4--,a standard winter and spring vegetable1 of the easiest culture in deep soil 7,fig4 #caa74 ,parsnips are the better for the winter's freeze1 although they are of good quality if taken up after the fall frosts and packed in soil1 sand1 or moss in the cellar4 ,the seed1 which must be not over one year old1 should be sown as early as possible in well-prepared soil1 firmed with the feet or roller4 ,as the seed germinates rather slowly1 the ground often becomes crusted or baked over the seeds1 in which case it should be broken and fined with a garden rake4 ,this operation often means the success of the crop4 ,radish or cabbage seeds may be sown with the parsnip seed to mark the row and break the crust4 ,one ounce of seed will sow #bjj feet of drill4 ,thin to #f inches apart in the row4 ,pea4--,perhaps no vegetable is planted in greater expectancy than the pea4 ,it is one of the earliest seeds to go into the ground1 and the planting fever is impatient4 ,there is great difference in quality between the smooth and the wrinkled peas4 ,the first are a little the earliest to be planted and to become fit for use1 and on that account should be planted in a small way2 but the wrinkled sorts are much superior in quality4 ,the early crop of peas may be forwarded by sprouting the seeds indoors4 ,soil may be made too rich or strong for peas4 ,for the kitchen-garden the dwarf and half-dwarf varieties are the best1 as the tall kinds will need brush or wire to support them1 causing considerable trouble and labor and not being as neat in appearance4 ,the dwarf varieties should be planted four rows in a block1 each row being only #f or #h inches apart4 ,the peas on the two center rows may be picked from the outside4 ,leave a space of #b feet and plant the same4 ,the tall varieties yield a larger crop than the dwarfs1 but as the rows must be made from #c to #e feet apart1 the dwarf ones1 which are planted only #f to #h inches apart1 will give as large a yield on the same area4 ,always plant double rows of the tall varieties2 that is1 two rows from #d to #f inches apart1 with the brush or wire between1 the double rows being from #c to #e feet apart1 according to varieties4 ,at the time of the first planting only the smooth varieties should be sown1 but by the middle of ,april in ,new ,york the ground will be warm and dry enough for wrinkled sorts4 ,succession crops should be sown that will come to maturity one after the other1 extending the season six or eight weeks4 ,if a further supply is wanted1 the early quick-maturing varieties may be sown in ,august1 usually giving a fair crop of peas in ,september and early ,october4 ,in the hot weather of midsummer they do not thrive so well4 ,one quart of seed will plant about #ajj feet of drill4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cab4 ,one of the bell peppers4 ,pepper4--,the garden pepper is not the pepper of commerce2 it is more properly known as red pepper 7though the pods are not always red71 chilli1 and capsicum4 ,the pods are much used in the ,south1 and most ,northern households now employ them to some extent4 ,peppers are tender while young1 although they will endure a heavy frost in the fall4 ,their culture is that recommended for egg-plants4 ,a small seedsman's packet of seed will be sufficient for a large number of plants1 say two hundred4 ,the large bell peppers 7,fig4 #cab7 are the mildest1 and are used for making 8stuffed peppers0 and other dishes4 ,the small1 hot peppers are used for seasoning and sauces4 ,potato4--,the potato is rather more a field crop than a home-garden product2 yet the home-gardener often desires to grow a small early lot4 ,the common practice of growing potatoes on elevated ridges or hills is wrong1 unless the soil is so wet that this practice is necessary to insure proper drainage 7but in this case the land is not adapted to the growing of potatoes71 or unless it is necessary1 in a particular place1 to secure a very early crop4 ,if the land is elevated into ridges or hills1 there is great loss of moisture by means of evaporation4 ,during the last cultivating the potatoes may be hilled up slightly in order to cover the tubers2 but the hills should not be made in the beginning for the main crop if land and conditions are right4 ,land for potatoes should be rather loamy in character1 and ought to have a liberal supply of potash1 either naturally or supplied in the drill1 by means of an application of sulfate of potash4 ,see that the land is deeply plowed or spaded1 so that the roots can penetrate deeper4 ,plant the potatoes #c or #d inches below the natural surface of the ground4 ,it is ordinarily best to drop the pieces in drills4 ,a continuous drill or row may be made by dropping one piece every #f inches1 but it is usually thought best to drop two pieces about every #ab to #ah inches4 ,the drills are far enough apart to allow good cultivation4 ,if horse cultivation is used1 the drills should be at least #c feet apart4 ,small potatoes are considered not to be so good as large ones for planting4 ,one reason is because too many sprouts arise from each one1 and these sprouts are likely to crowd each other4 ,the same is true of the tip end or seed end of the tuber4 ,even when the tip is cut off1 the eyes are so numerous that one secures many weak shoots rather than two or three strong ones4 ,it is ordinarily best to cut the potatoes to two or three eyes1 leaving as much tuber as possible with each piece4 ,from #g to #aj bushels of potatoes are required to plant an acre4 ,,xxv4 ,the garden radish1 grown in fall of the usual spring sorts4 ,,xxv4 ,the garden radish1 grown in fall of the usual spring sorts4 ,for a very early crop in the garden1 tubers are sometimes sprouted in the cellar4 ,when the sprouts are #d to #f inches high1 the tubers are carefully planted4 ,it is essential that the sprouts are not broken in the handling4 ,in this practice1 also1 the tubers are first cut into large pieces1 so that they will not dry out too much4 ,the staple remedy for the potato bug is ,paris green1 #b pounds or more of poison to #aej to #bjj gallons of water1 with a little lime4 ,for the blight1 spray with bordeaux mixture1 and spray thoroughly4 ,bordeaux mixture will also keep away the flea beetle to a large extent4 ,radish 7,plate ,,xxv74--,in all parts of the country the radish is popular as a side-dish1 being used as an appetizer and for its decorative character4 ,it is a poor product1 however1 if misshapen1 wormy1 or tough4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cac4 ,french ,breakfast and olive-shaped radishes4 ,radishes should be grown quickly in order to have them at their best4 ,they become tough and woody if grown slowly or allowed to stay in the ground too long4 ,a light soil1 well enriched1 will grow most of the early varieties to table size in three to five weeks4 ,to have a supply through the early months1 sowings should be made every two weeks4 ,for spring use1 the ,french ,breakfast is still a standard variety 7,fig4 #cac74 ,for summer1 the large white or gray varieties are best4 ,the winter varieties may be sown in ,september1 harvested before severe frosts1 and stored in sand in a cool cellar4 ,when they are to be used1 if thrown into cold water for a short time they will regain their crispness4 ,sow radishes thickly in drills1 #ab to #ah inches apart4 ,thin as needed4 ,rhubarb1 or ,pie plant4--,a strong perennial herb1 to be grown in a bed or row by itself at one end or side of the garden4 ,it is a heavy feeder4 ,rhubarb is usually propagated by division of the fleshy roots1 small pieces of which will grow if separated from the old established roots and planted in rich mellow soil4 ,poor soil should be made rich by spading out at least #c feet of the surface1 filling with well-rotted manure to within #a foot of the level1 throwing in the top soil and setting the roots with the crowns #d inches below the surface1 firming them with the feet4 ,the stalks should not be cut for use until the second year4 ,see that the plant does not want for water when it is making its heavy leaf growth4 ,in fall1 coarse manure should be thrown over the crowns1 to be forked or spaded in lightly when spring opens4 ,in growing seedling rhubarb1 the seed may be sown in a coldframe in ,march or ,april1 protected from freezing1 and in two months the plants will be ready to set in rows1 #ab inches apart4 ,give the plants good cultivation1 and the following spring they may be set in a permanent place4 ,at this time the plants should be set in well-prepared ground1 at a distance each way of #d to #e feet1 and treated as those set with pieces of roots4 ,if given good care and well manured1 the plants will live for years and yield abundantly4 ,two dozen good roots will supply a large family4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cad4 ,salsify1 or oyster plant4 ,salsify1 or ,vegetable oyster 7,fig4 #cad74--,salsify is one of the best of winter and early spring vegetables1 and should be grown in every garden4 ,it may be cooked in several different ways1 to bring out the oyster flavor4 ,the seed should be sown as early in the spring as possible4 ,handle the same as parsnips in every way4 ,the roots1 like parsnips1 are the better for the winter freeze1 but part of the crop should be dug in the fall1 and stored in soil or moss in a cellar for winter use4 ,sea-kale is a strong-rooted perennial1 the shoots of which are very highly prized as a delicacy when blanched4 ,seed should be sown in a hotbed early in the spring1 plants transplanted to the garden when from #b to #c inches high1 and given good cultivation through the season1 being covered with litter on the approach of winter4 ,the young stalks are blanched early the following spring by covering with large pots or boxes1 or by banking with sand or other clean material4 ,the ,dwarf ,green ,scotch1 ,dwarf ,brown1 and ,siberian are among the leading varieties4 ,sea-kale is eaten much as asparagus is4 ,it is highly prized by those who know it4 ,sea-kale is also propagated by cuttings of the roots #d or #e inches long1 planted directly in the soil in spring4 ,the plant being perennial1 the early shoots may be bleached year after year4 ,sorrel of the ,european garden sorts may be sown in spring1 in drills #af inches apart in beds1 or #c to #c-a_/b feet apart in rows4 ,after the plants are well established they should be thinned to #aj to #ab inches apart in the rows4 ,they are perennial1 and may be kept growing in the same place for several years4 ,broad-leaved ,french is the most popular variety4 ,spearmint is prized by many persons as a seasoning1 particularly for the ,thanksgiving and holiday cookery4 ,it is a perennial and perfectly hardy1 and will live in the open garden year after year4 ,if a supply of the fresh herbage is wanted in winter1 remove sods of it to the house six weeks before wanted4 ,place the sods in boxes1 and treat as for house plants4 ,the plants should have been frosted and become perfectly dormant before removal4 ,spinach4--,the most extensively grown of all 8greens10 being in season in earliest spring1 and in fall and winter4 ,the earliest spinach that finds its way to market is produced from seed sown in ,september or ,october1 often protected by frames or other means through the severe winter1 and cut soon after growth starts in early spring4 ,even as far north as ,new ,york spinach may stand over winter without protection4 ,spinach is forced by placing sash over the frames in ,february and ,march1 protecting the young leaves from severe freezing by mats or straw thrown over the frames4 ,seed may be sown in early spring for a succession2 later in the season seed of the ,new ,zealand summer spinach may be sown1 and this will grow through the heat of the summer and yield a fine quality of leaves4 ,the seed of this kind1 being very hard1 should be scalded and allowed to soak a few hours before sowing4 ,this seed is usually sown in hills about #c feet apart1 sowing four to six seed in each hill4 ,the spring and winter spinach should be sown in drills #ab to #ad inches apart1 one ounce being sufficient for #ajj feet of drill4 ,remember that common spinach is a cool-weather 7fall and spring7 crop4 ,squash4--,the summer squashes rarely fail of a crop if they once escape the scourge of the striped beetle4 ,the late varieties are not so certain2 they must secure a strong start1 and be on 8quick0 fertile warm land in order to make a crop before the cool nights of fall 7,fig4 #cae74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cae4 ,one of the so-called ,japanese type of squash 7,cucurbita moschata74 ,the time of planting1 method of preparing the hills1 and after-culture are the same as for cucumbers and melons1 except that for the early bush varieties the hills should be #d or #e feet apart1 and for the later running varieties from #f to #h feet apart4 ,from eight to ten seeds should be planted in each hill1 thinning to four plants after danger from bugs is over4 ,of the early squashes1 one ounce of seed will plant fifty hills2 of the later varieties1 one ounce will plant but eighteen to twenty hills4 ,for winter use1 varieties of the ,hubbard type are best4 ,for summer use1 the ,crooknecks and ,scallop squashes are popular4 ,in growing winter squashes in a ,northern climate1 it is essential that the plants start off quickly and vigorously3 a little chemical fertilizer will help4 ,pumpkins are grown the same as squashes4 ,sweet-potato is rarely grown north of ,philadelphia2 in the ,south it is a universal garden crop4 ,sweet-potatoes are grown from sprouts planted on ridges or hills1 not by planting the tubers1 as with the common or ,irish potato4 ,the method of obtaining these sprouts is as follows3 ,in ,april1 tubers of sweet-potatoes are planted in a partially spent hotbed by using the whole tuber 7or if a large one1 by cutting it in two through the long way71 covering the tubers with #b inches of light1 well-firmed soil4 ,the sash should be put on the frames and only enough ventilation given to keep the potatoes from decaying4 ,in ten or twelve days the young sprouts should begin to appear1 and the bed should be watered if dry4 ,the sprouts when pulled from the tuber will be found to have rootlets at the lower end and along the stems4 ,these sprouts should be about #c to #e inches long by the time the ground is warm enough to plant them out on their ridges4 ,the ridges or hills should be prepared by plowing out a furrow #d to #f inches deep4 ,scatter manure in the furrow and plow back the soil so as to raise the center at least #f inches above the level of the soil4 ,on this ridge the plants are set1 placing the plants well in to the leaves and about #ab to #ah inches apart in the rows1 the rows being from #c to #d feet apart4 ,the after-cultivation consists in stirring the soil between the ridges2 and as the vines begin to run they should be lifted frequently to prevent rooting at the joints4 ,when the tips of the vines have been touched by frost the crop may be harvested1 the tubers left to dry a few days1 and stored in a dry1 warm place4 ,to keep sweet potatoes1 store in layers in barrels or boxes in dry sand1 and keep them in a dry room ,see that all bruised or chilled potatoes are thrown out4 ,illustration3 #caf4 ,a good form or type of tomato4 ,tomato4--,the tomato is an inhabitant of practically every home garden1 and everybody understands its culture 7,fig4 #caf74 ,the early fruits are very easily grown by starting the plants in a greenhouse1 hotbed1 or in shallow boxes placed in windows4 ,a pinch of seed sown in ,march will give all the early plants a large family can use4 ,when the plants have reached the height of #b or #c inches1 they should be transplanted into #c-;inch flower-pots1 old berry boxes1 or other receptacles1 and allowed to grow slowly and stocky until time to set them out1 which is from ,may #ae on 7in ,new ,york74 ,they should be set in rows #d or #e feet apart1 the plants being the same distance in the rows4 ,illustration3 #cag4 ,a tomato trellis4 ,some support should be given to keep the fruits off the ground and to hasten the ripening4 ,a trellis of chicken-wire makes an excellent support1 as does the light lath fencing that may be bought or made at home4 ,stout stakes1 with wire strung the length of the rows1 afford an excellent support4 ,a very showy method is that of a frame made like an inverted ,v1 which allows the fruits to hang free2 with a little attention to trimming1 the light reaches the fruits and ripens them perfectly 7,fig4 #cag74 ,this support is made by leaning together two lath frames4 ,the late fruits may be picked green and ripened on a shelf in the sun2 or they will ripen if placed in a drawer4 ,one ounce of seed will be enough for from twelve to fifteen hundred plants4 ,a little fertilizer in the hill will start the plants off quickly4 ,the rot is less serious when the vines are kept off the ground and the rampant suckers are cut out4 ,varieties pass out and new ones come into notice1 so that a list is of small permanent value4 ,turnips and ,rutabagas are little grown in home gardens2 and yet a finer quality of vegetable than most persons know could be secured if these plants were raised on one's own soil and brought fresh to the table4 ,they are usually a fall crop1 from seed sown in ,july and early ,august1 although some kitchen-gardens have them from spring-sown ,the culture is easy4 ,turnips should be grown in drills1 like beets1 for the early crop4 ,the young plants will stand light frosts4 ,choose a rainy day for planting1 if practicable4 ,cover the seed very lightly4 ,thin the young plants to #e to #g inches in the row4 ,sow every two weeks if a constant supply is desired1 as turnips rapidly become hard and woody in warm summer weather4 ,for the fall and winter crop in the ,north1 8,on the fourteenth day of ,july1 ,sow your turnips1 wet or dry40 ,in many parts of the northern and middle states tradition fixes the #beth of ,july as the proper time for sowing flat turnips for winter use4 ,in the middle states1 turnips are sometimes sown as late as the end of ,august4 ,prepare a piece of very mellow ground1 and sow the seed thinly and evenly broadcast4 ,in spite of the old rhyme1 a gentle shower will then be acceptable4 ,these turnips are pulled after frost1 the tops removed1 and the roots stored in cellars or pits4 ,for the early crop1 ,purple-top ,strap-leaf1 ,early ,white ,flat ,dutch1 and ,early ,purple-top ,milan are the favorite varieties4 ,yellow-fleshed sorts like ,golden ,ball are very fine for early table use1 when well grown1 but most eaters prefer white turnips in spring1 although they occasionally patronize the yellow varieties in the fall4 ,yellow ,globe is the favorite yellow fall turnip1 though some persons grow yellow rutabagas and call them turnips4 ,for late crop of white turnips1 the same varieties chosen for spring sowing are also desirable4 ,rutabagas are distinguished from turnips by their smooth1 bluish foliage1 long root1 and yellow flesh4 ,they are richer than turnips2 they require the same treatment1 except that the season of growth is longer4 ,fall-sown or summer-sown bagas should have a month the start of flat turnips4 ,except the maggot 7see cabbage maggot71 there are no serious insects or diseases peculiar to turnips and bagas4 ,watermelon4--,the watermelon is shipped everywhere in such enormous quantities1 and it covers so much space in the garden1 that home-gardeners in the ,north seldom grow it4 ,when one has room1 it should be added to the kitchen-garden4 ,the culture is essentially that for muskmelons 7which see71 except that most varieties require a warmer place and longer period of growth4 ,give the hills a distance of #f to #aj feet apart4 ,choose a warm1 8quick0 soil and sunny exposure4 ,it is essential1 in the ,north1 that the plants grow rapidly and come into bloom early4 ,one ounce of seed will plant thirty hills4 ,there are several white or yellow-fleshed varieties1 but aside from their oddity of appearance they have little value4 ,a good watermelon has a solid1 bright red flesh1 preferably with black seeds1 and a strong protecting rind4 ,kolb ,gem1 ,jones1 ,boss1 ,cuban ,queen1 and ,dixie are among the best varieties4 ,there are early varieties that will ripen in the ,northern season1 and make a much better melon than those secured on the market4 ,the so-called 8citron10 with hard white flesh1 used in making preserves1 is a form of watermelon4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,seasonal ,,reminders ,the author assumes that a person who is intelligent enough to make a garden1 does not need an arbitrary calendar of operations4 ,too exact advice is misleading and unpractical4 ,most of the older gardening books were arranged wholly on the calendar method--giving specific directions for each month in the year4 ,we have now accumulated sufficient fact and experience1 however1 to enable us to state principles2 and these principles can be applied anywhere1--when supplemented by good judgment1--whereas mere rules are arbitrary and generally useless for any other condition than that for which they were specifically made4 ,the regions of gardening experience have expanded enormously within the past fifty and seventy-five years4 ,seasons and conditions vary so much in different years and different places that no hard and fast advice can be given for the performing of gardening operations1 yet brief hints for the proper work of the various months may be useful as suggestions and reminders4 ,the ,monthly ,reminders are compiled from files of the 8,american ,garden0 of some years back1 when the author had editorial charge of that magazine4 ,the advice for the ,north 7pages #ejd to #eaf7 was written by ,t4 ,greiner1 ,la ,salle1 ,n4,y4 well known as a gardener and author4 ,that for the ,south 7pages #eaf to #ebf7 was made by ,h4,w4 ,smith1 ,baton ,rouge1 ,la41 for the first nine months1 and it was extended for 8,garden-,making0 to the months of ,october1 ,november1 and ,december by ,f4,h4 ,burnette1 ,horticulturist of the ,louisiana ,experiment ,station4 ,,kitchen-,,garden ,,planting ,,table ,a ,,guide ,,to ,,the ,,proper ,,times ,,for ,,sowing ,,of ,,various ,,seeds ,,in ,,order ,,to ,,obtain ,,continuous ,,succession ,,of ,,crops ,explanation of ,signs ,used ,in the ,table4 7#j7,to be sown in open ground without transplanting4 ,plants have to be thinned out1 given proper distance4 7#a7 ,sow in seed bed in the garden1 and transplant thence to permanent place4 7#b7 ,make two sowings in open ground during the month4 7#c7 ,make three sowings in open ground during the month4 7#d7 ,start in greenhouse or hot-bed1 and plant out so soon as the ground is in good shape1 and weather permits4 7#e7 ,sow in open ground as soon as it can be worked4 7#f7 ,to be grown only in hot-bed or greenhouse4 7#g7 ,sow in cold frame1 keep plants there over winter with a little protection2 plant out in spring as soon as the ground can be worked4 7#h7 ,to be sown in open ground1 and protected with litter over winter4 7#i7 ,plant in frame4 ,when cold weather sets in1 cover with sash and straw mats4 ,plants will be ready for use in ,december and ,january4 7#aj7 ,plant in cellar1 barn or under benches in greenhouse4 7#aa7 ,plant outdoors on prepared beds4 7#ab7 ,sow every week in greenhouse or frame1 to have a good succession4 ,,vegetables ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen ,,garden ,jan ,feb ,mar ,apr ,may ,jun ,jul ,aug ,sep ,oct ,n ov ,dec ,artichoke1 ,american - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - - ,artichoke1,french - 7#d7 - 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - - ,beans1 ,bush 7#f7 7#f7 7#f7 7#j7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#j7 - - - - ,beans1 ,pole and ,lima - - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,beets - - 7#d7 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - ,borecole1 ,kale - - - - 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - ,broccoli - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - 7#g7 7#g7 - - ,brussels ,sprouts - - - - 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,cabbage1 all sorts - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - 7#g7 7#g7 - - ,cardoon - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,carrot 7#f7 7#f7 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - ,cauliflower 7#f7 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,celeriac - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,celery - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,chicory - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,collards - - - - - - 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - ,corn1 field - - - 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,corn1 ,sweet - - - 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#j7 - - - - ,corn1 ,pop - - - 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,corn1 ,salad - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - 7#h7 - - - ,cress 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#j7 7#j7 - - 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 ,cucumber 7#f7 7#f7 7#f7 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 - 7#f7 7#f7 - - - ,egg ,plants - 7#f7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,endive - - - 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - ,kohlrabi 7#f7 7#f7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - ,leek - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - ,lettuce 7#f7 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#j7 7#i7 7#i7 7#g7 - ,mangel - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,melon 7#f7 7#f7 7#f7 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 7#i7 7#f7 - - - - ,mushroom 7#aj7 7#aj7 7#aa7 - - - - 7#aa7 7#aj7 7#aj7 7#aj7 7#aj7 ,mustard 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - 7#j7 7#j7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 ,nasturtium - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - - ,okra - - 7#d7 7#d7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 - - - - - ,onion - 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 - - - - - - - ,parsnips - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,parsley 7#f7 7#f7 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - ,peas - - 7#e7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#b7 7#j7 - 7#j7 - - ,pepper - 7#d7 7#d7 7#d7 7#a7 - - - - - - - ,potatoes - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - - ,pumpkin - - - 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,radish 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#ab7 7#c7 7#c7 7#c7 - - 7#i7 7#i7 - - ,rutabaga - - - - - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - ,salsify - - 7#e7 7#j7 - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - ,seakale - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,spinach - - 7#e7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - 7#b7 7#h7 - - ,squash - - 7#d7 7#d7 7#j7 7#j7 - - - - - - ,tomato 7#f7 7#f7 7#d7 7#a7 7#a7 7#a7 - 7#f7 7#f7 7#f7 - - ,turnips - - - - - - - 7#j7 7#j7 - - - ,n4,b4--,for last planting of ,beans1 ,sweet ,corn1 ,kohlrabi1 ,peas and ,radishes1 or even ,tomatoes1 take the earliest varieties1 just the same as are used for first planting4 --,the late sowings of ,salsify are intended to remain undisturbed over winter4 ,roots from these sowings will1 the next year1 attain a size double that usually seen4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cah4 ,bird's-eye view of the seasons in which the various garden products may be in their prime4 ,,suggestions ,,and ,,reminders4--,i4 ,,for ,,the ,,north ,,january ,cabbage plants in frames need free airing whenever the temperature is above the freezing point1 or so long as the soil of the bed is not frozen4 ,snow1 in that case1 should be removed soon after its fall4 ,as long as the soil is frozen the snow can safely be left on for a number of days4 ,cabbage1 cauliflower1 and lettuce seed should be sown at intervals to secure plants for extra-early sales or setting4 ,a month later they will be ready to transfer to boxes1 which should go to the coldframe and be given protection by mats or shutters4 ,coldframes must be well ventilated on warm1 sunny days2 leave the sashes off as long as is possible without injury to the plants4 ,keep the soil in a friable condition1 and look carefully to any possible places where water can stand and freeze4 ,if the frames seem too cold1 bank up around them with coarse manure4 ,hotbeds4--,look up and repair the sashes4 ,save the horse-manure from day to day1 rejecting dry litter1 and piling up the droppings and urine-soaked bedding in thin layers to prevent violent heating4 ,lettuce in frames treat as advised for cabbage plants4 ,pruning should now be considered4 ,perhaps it is best to prune fruit-trees in ,march or ,april1 but grapes and currants and gooseberries may be pruned now4 ,january and ,february are good months in which to prune peach trees4 ,thin out the peach trees well1 taking care to remove all the dead wood4 ,if you have much pruning to do in apple1 pear1 or plum orchards1 you will save time by utilizing the warm days now4 ,study well the different methods of pruning4 ,never let an itinerant pruner touch your trees until you are satisfied that he understands his business4 ,tools should now be inspected and repaired1 and any new ones that are needed made or ordered4 ,,february ,cabbage4--,sow seed of ,jersey ,wakefield in flats filled with light loamy soil1 the last week of this month4 ,sow thinly1 cover lightly1 and place the boxes in a gentle hotbed or any warm1 sunny situation4 ,when the plants are strong1 transplant them into flats #a-a_/b in4 apart each way4 ,as growth begins1 gradually expose them to the open air on all favorable occasions4 ,late in ,march remove them to a coldframe1 and properly harden them off before setting them in the open ground4 ,celery4--,we urgently advise every one who has a garden1 large or small1 to make a trial of the new celery-culture4 ,you need1 first1 good plants4 ,get some seed of ,white ,plume or ,golden ,self-blanching1 and sow it thickly in flats filled with fine loam4 ,cover by sifting a thin layer of sand or fine soil over it1 and firm well4 ,keep in a moderately warm place1 watering as needed1 until plants appear4 ,if you have a number of flats1 they may be placed on top of one another4 ,at the first sign of plant-growth1 bring the flats gradually to the light4 ,when the plants are #a-a_/b or #b in4 high1 transplant them into other flats1 setting them in rows #b-a_/b in4 apart1 the plants half an inch apart in the rows4 ,then set the flats in a coldframe until the plants are large enough to plant out in the open ground4 ,hotbeds for raising early plants should be made this month4 ,always break the manure up fine and tread it down well4 ,be sure to put enough in the center of beds1 so that there will be no sagging4 ,fresh manure of hard-worked and well-fed horses1 free from dry litter1 is best4 ,an addition of leaves used for bedding will serve to produce a more moderate but more lasting heat4 ,sheep-manure may also be added to the horse-manure1 should there be a scant supply of the latter on hand4 ,onions4--,we urgently advise giving the new onion-culture a trial4 ,for seed1 buy a packet or an ounce of ,prizetaker1 ,spanish ,king1 ,white ,victoria1 or some other large kind of globe onion4 ,sow the seed in flats1 in a hotbed1 or in a greenhouse late in the month1 and transplant the onions to the open ground as soon as the latter is in working condition4 ,set the plants in rows #a ft4 apart and about #c in4 apart in the row4 ,plums4--,make a thorough inspection of all plum and cherry trees1 wild and cultivated1 for plum-knot4 ,cut and burn all the knots found4 ,remove all 8mummy0 plums1 for they spread the fruit-rot4 ,rhubarb4--,give the plants in the garden a heavy dressing of fine old compost4 ,if you wish a few early stalks1 place kegs or boxes over some of the plants1 and heap over them some heating horse-manure4 ,,march ,beets4--,a few seeds may be sown in the hotbed4 ,cabbage1 cauliflower1 and celery seeds may be sown for the early crop4 ,egg-plants4--,seeds should be sown4 ,take care that the young plants are never stunted4 ,grafting may be done in favorable weather4 ,cherries and plums must be grafted early4 ,use liquid grafting-wax in cold weather4 ,hotbeds may be made at any time1 but do not grow impatient about the work1 for there will be cold weather yet4 ,clean1 fresh manure is necessary1 and a layer #b ft4 thick should be tramped hard4 ,when once started and the seeds sown1 do not let the beds get too hot4 ,give them air on fine days and give the seedlings plenty of water4 ,use two thermometers--one to test the atmosphere and the other the heat of the soil4 ,lettuce should be sown in the hotbed for an early crop4 ,onion seed for the new onion-culture may be sown at the close of the month4 ,peas4--,sow now1 if the ground can be worked4 ,peppers may be sown late in the month4 ,potatoes kept for seed must not be allowed to sprout4 ,keep them in a temperature near freezing point4 ,rub off the sprouts from potatoes kept for eating1 and pick out all decayed specimens4 ,spinach4--,sow some seeds for an early crop4 ,tomato seeds may be sown in the hotbeds4 ,,april ,artichokes4--,sow the seeds for next year's crop4 ,a deep1 rich1 sandy loam is best4 ,fork in a dressing of well-rotted manure around the old plants4 ,asparagus4--,spade in some good manure in the bed1 and give the soil a thorough working before the crowns start4 ,sow seeds in the open ground for young plants for a new bed4 ,beans4--,limas may be started on sods in a hotbed or a coldframe towards the last of the month4 ,beets4--,the ground should be prepared and the seed sown for beets for cattle as soon as the weather will permit4 ,put them in before planting corn4 ,they will stand considerable cold weather1 and should be planted early to get a start of the weeds4 ,blackberries should be pruned1 the brush drawn off1 piled1 and burned4 ,if it is necessary1 to stake them1 try a wire trellis1 the same as for grapes1 putting on one wire #b-a_/b ft4 high4 ,the young plants should be dug before the buds start4 ,cabbage seed may be sown in the open ground1 in coldframes1 or in pans or boxes in the house4 ,early varieties should be started at once4 ,cabbages like a rich and heavy loam1 with good drainage4 ,give them all the manure you can get4 ,cauliflower seeds may be sown toward the last of the month4 ,they should never have a check from the time the seed is sown until harvested4 ,carrot4--,sow the seed of early sorts1 like ,early ,forcing1 as soon as the ground can be worked4 ,celery4--,plan to grow celery by the new method4 ,plenty of manure and moisture are required to do this4 ,sow the seed in light1 rich soil in the house1 hotbed1 coldframe1 or open ground4 ,transplant the plants once before setting them in the field4 ,page #eje4 ,cress4--,sow early and every two or three weeks4 ,watercress should be sown in damp soil or in streams4 ,the outer edges of a hotbed may also be utilized4 ,cress is often a profitable crop when rightly handled4 ,cucumber seeds may be sown on sods in the hotbed4 ,egg-plant4--,sow in the hotbed1 and transplant when #b in4 high to other beds or pots4 ,they must have good care1 for a check in their growth means all the difference between profit and loss4 ,lettuce4--,sow the seeds in the hotbed1 and in the open ground as soon as it can be worked4 ,plants sown a month ago should be transplanted4 ,leek4--,sow the seeds in the open ground in drills #f in4 apart and #a in4 deep1 and when large enough1 thin to #a in4 in the row4 ,muskmelon4--,plant seeds in sods in the hotbed4 ,parsnip4--,dig the roots before they grow and become soft and pithy4 ,seeds may be sown as soon as the ground is dry enough to work4 ,parsley4--,soak the seeds in warm water for a few hours1 and sow in the open ground4 ,peas4--,sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked4 ,they will stand considerable cold and transplanting also4 ,time may be gained by sowing some seeds in moist sand in a box in the cellar and transplanting when well sprouted4 ,plant deep in light1 dry soil2 cover an inch at first1 and draw in the earth as the vines grow4 ,potatoes4--,plant early on rich soil free from blight and scab4 ,for a very early crop1 the potatoes may be sprouted before planting4 ,peppers4--,sow the seeds in the hotbed or in the boxes in the house4 ,radish seeds may be sown in the open ground or in the hotbed and the crop harvested from there4 ,the small1 round varieties are best for this purpose4 ,strawberries4--,give a good1 thorough cultivation between the rows and then remove the mulch from the plants1 placing it in the rows1 where it will help to keep the weeds down4 ,salsify4--,sow the seeds as soon as the ground can be worked4 ,give the same care and cultivation as for carrots or parsnips4 ,spinach seeds must be sown early1 and then every two weeks for a succession4 ,thin out and use the plants before they send up flower-stalks4 ,squashes4--,hubbards and summer squashes may be started on sods in the hotbed4 ,tomato4--,sow in the hotbed or in shallow boxes in the house4 ,try some of the yellow varieties2 they are the finest flavored of any4 ,,may ,beans4--,the bush sorts may be planted in the open ground1 and limas in pots or sods in a coldframe or spent hotbed4 ,limas require a long season to mature1 and should be started early4 ,beets4--,sow for a succession4 ,transplant those started under glass4 ,cabbages always do best on a freshly turned sod1 and should be set before the land has had time to dry after plowing4 ,the secret of success in getting a large yield of cabbage is to start with rich land and put on all the manure obtainable4 ,clean out the hog yard for this purpose4 ,cucumbers4--,sow in the open ground toward the last of the month4 ,a few may be started as advised for lima beans4 ,lettuce4--,sow for a succession1 and thin to #d in4 in the rows4 ,melons4--,plant in the open ground toward the end of the month4 ,it is useless to plant melons and other cucurbitaceous plants until settled weather has arrived4 ,onions4--,finish planting and transplanting1 and keep all weeds down1 both in the seed-bed and the open field4 ,peas4--,sow for a succession4 ,squashes4--,plant as advised for melons and cucumbers4 ,they require a rich1 well-manured soil4 ,strawberries4--,remove the blossoms from newly set plants4 ,mulch with salt hay or marsh hay or clean straw or leaves those that are to bear4 ,mulching conserves moisture1 keeps the berries clean1 and prevents weeds from growing4 ,sweet corn4--,plant early and late varieties1 and by making two or three plantings of each1 at intervals1 a succession may be kept up all summer and fall4 ,sweet corn is delicious1 and one can hardly have too much of it4 ,tomatoes4--,set some early plants by the middle of the month or earner1 if the ground is warm1 and the season early and fair4 ,they may be protected from the cold by covering with hay1 straw1 cloth1 or paper1 or even with earth4 ,the main crop should not be set until the #bjth or #beth1 or until all danger of frost is over4 ,however1 tomatoes will stand more chilly weather than is ordinarily supposed4 ,,june ,asparagus4--,cease cutting and allow the shoots to grow4 ,keep the weeds down and the soil well stirred4 ,an application of a quick commercial fertilizer or of liquid manure will be beneficial4 ,beans4--,sow the wax sorts for succession4 ,as soon as a crop is off1 pull out the vines and plant the ground to late cabbage1 turnips1 or sweet corn4 ,beets4--,transplant in rows #a to #c ft4 apart and #f in4 in the row4 ,cut off most of the top1 water thoroughly1 and they will soon start4 ,cabbage and cauliflower4--,set plants for the late crop4 ,rich1 newly turned sod and a heavy dressing of well-rotted manure go a long way toward assuring a good crop4 ,celery4--,set the main crop1 and try the new method of setting the plants #g in4 apart each way1 if you have rich land and can irrigate1 but not unless these conditions are present4 ,page #eje4 ,cucumbers may yet be planted1 if done early in the month4 ,currants4--,spray with ,paris green for the currant worm until the fruit sets4 ,hellebore is good1 but it is difficult to get it of good strength2 use it for all late spraying4 ,lettuce4--,sow for succession in a moist1 cool1 and partially shaded spot4 ,the seed does not germinate well in hot weather4 ,lima beans should be hoed frequently1 and started on the poles if they are contrary4 ,melons4--,cultivate often and watch for the bugs4 ,a screen of closely woven wire or mosquito netting may be used to cover the vines1 or tobacco dust sifted on thickly4 ,onions4--,keep free from weeds and stir the ground frequently and especially after every rain4 ,squashes4--,keep the ground well cultivated and look out for bugs4 7,see ,melons47 ,layer the vines and cover the joints with fresh soil1 to prevent death of the vines from the attacks of the borer4 ,strawberries4--,plow up the old bed that has borne two crops1 as it will usually not pay to keep it4 ,set the ground to late cabbage or some other crop4 ,the young bed that has borne the first crop should have a thorough cultivation and the plow run close to the rows to narrow them to the required width4 ,pull up or hoe out all weeds and keep the ground clean the rest of the season4 ,this applies with equal force to the newly set bed4 ,a bed can be set late next month from young runners4 ,pinch off the end after the first joint1 and allow it to root on a sod or in a small pot set level with the surface4 ,tomatoes4--,for an early crop train to a trellis1 pinch off all side shoots1 and allow all the strength to go to the main stalk4 ,they may also be trained to poles1 the same as lima beans1 and can be set closer if grown in this way4 ,spray with the bordeaux mixture for the blight1 keep the foliage thinned and the vines off the ground4 ,turnips4--,sow for an early fall crop4 ,,july ,beans4--,sow the wax sorts for a succession4 ,beets4--,sow ,early ,egyptian or ,eclipse for young beets next fall4 ,blackberries4--,head back the young canes to #c ft41 and the laterals also when they get longer4 ,they may be pinched with the thumbnail and finger in a small patch1 but this soon makes the fingers sore1 and when there are many bushes to go over1 it is better to use a pair of shears or a sharp sickle4 ,cabbage4--,set plants for the late crop4 ,corn4--,plant sweet corn for succession and late use4 ,cucumbers4--,it is late to plant1 but they may be put in for pickles if done before the ,fourth4 ,cultivate those which are up1 and keep an eye open for bugs4 ,currants4--,cover a few bushes with muslin or burlap before the fruit ripens1 and you can eat currants in ,august4 ,use hellebore1 rather than ,paris green1 for the last brood of currant worms1 and apply it as soon as the worms appear4 ,there is little danger in using it1 even if the currants are ripe4 ,lettuce seed does not germinate well in hot weather4 ,sow in a moist1 shaded position for a succession4 ,lima beans4--,hoe them frequently1 and give assistance to get on the poles4 ,melons4--,watch for bugs1 and apply tobacco dust freely around the plants4 ,keep them well cultivated4 ,a light application of bone meal will pay4 ,peaches1 pears1 and plums should be thinned to secure fine fruit and to help sustain the vigor of the tree4 ,ripening the seed is what draws on the tree's vitality1 and if the number of seeds can be reduced one-half or two-thirds1 part of the strength required to ripen them will go into perfecting the fruit and seeds left1 and add greatly to the fine appearance1 flavor1 and quality of the edible portion4 ,radishes4--,sow the early kinds for a succession1 and toward the end of the month the winter sorts may be put in4 ,raspberries4--,pinch back the canes to #b-a_/b ft41 the same way as given for blackberries4 ,squashes4--,keep the ground well stirred1 and use tobacco dust freely for bugs and beetles4 ,cover the joints with fresh soil1 to guard against injury by the vine-borer4 ,,august ,beets4--,a last sowing of the early table sorts may be made for a succession4 ,cabbage4--,harvest the early crop1 and give good cultivation to the main crop4 ,keep down the bugs and worms4 ,celery4--,the latest crop may yet be set4 ,earlier set plants should be handled as they attain sufficient size4 ,common drain tiles are excellent for blanching if one has them1 and must be put on when the plants are about half grown4 ,hoe frequently to keep the plants growing4 ,onions4--,harvest as soon as the bulbs are well formed4 ,let them lie on the ground until cured1 then draw to the barn floor or some other airy place and spread thinly4 ,market when you can get a good price1 and the sooner the better4 ,tomatoes may be hastened in coloring by being picked just as they begin to color and placed in single layers in a coldframe or hotbed1 where they can be covered with sash4 ,,september ,in many parts of the ,north it is not too late to sow rye1 or peas1 or corn1 to afford winter protection for orchards4 ,as a rule1 very late fall plowing for orchards is not advisable4 ,now is a good time to trim up the fence-rows and to burn the brush piles1 in order to destroy the breeding places of rabbits1 insects1 and weeds4 ,cuttings of gooseberries and currants may be taken4 ,use only the wood of the current year's growth1 making the cuttings about a foot long4 ,strip off the leaves1 if they have not already fallen1 tie the cuttings in large bundles1 and bury them in a cold cellar1 or in a sandy1 well-drained knoll2 or if the cutting-bed is well prepared and well drained1 they may be planted immediately1 the bed being well mulched upon the approach of winter4 ,september and ,october are good months in which to set orchards1 provided the ground is well prepared and well drained1 and is not too much exposed to sweeping winds4 ,wet lands should never be set in the fall2 and such lands1 however1 are not fit for orchards4 ,strawberries may still be set2 also bush fruits4 ,seeds of various flowers may now be sown for winter bloom1 if one has a conservatory or good window4 ,petunias1 phloxes1 and many annuals make good window plants4 ,quicker results are secured1 however1 if border plants of petunias and some other things are dug up just before frost and placed in pots or boxes4 ,keep them cool and shaded for a couple of weeks1 cut down the tops1 and they will send up a vigorous and floriferous growth4 ,winter roses should now be in place in the beds or in pots4 ,there will be odd days when one can go to the woods and fields and collect roots of wild herbs and shrubs for planting in the yard or along the unused borders of the garden4 ,,october ,asparagus4--,old plantations should now be cleaned off1 and the tops removed at once4 ,this is a good time to apply manure to the beds4 ,for young plantations1 which may be started now as well as in spring1 select a warm soil and sunny exposure1 and give each plant plenty of room4 ,we like to set them in rows #e ft4 apart and at least #b ft4 apart in the rows4 ,cabbages4--,the heads that will winter best are those just fully formed1 not the over-ripe ones4 ,for family use1 bury an empty barrel in a well-drained spot1 and fill it with good heads4 ,place a lot of dry leaves on top1 and cover the barrel so that it will shed rain4 ,or1 pile some cabbages in a corner of the barn floor and cover them with enough straw to prevent solid freezing4 ,pages #aei1 #dgj4 ,cabbage-plants1 started from seed last month1 should be pricked out in cold-frames1 putting about #fjj to the ordinary sash and setting them quite deep4 ,chicory4--,dig what is wanted for salad1 and store it in sand in a dry cellar4 ,endive4--,blanch by gathering up the leaves and tying them lightly at the tips4 ,general garden management4--,the only planting that can be done in open ground at this time is restricted to rhubarb1 asparagus1 and perhaps onion-sets4 ,begin to think about next year's planting1 and to make arrangements for the manure that will be needed4 ,often you can purchase it now to good advantage1 and haul it while the roads are yet good4 ,clean up and plow the ground when the crops are harvested4 ,lettuce4--,plants to be wintered over should be set in frames like cabbage-plants4 ,onions4--,plant sets of ,extra ,early ,pearl1 or some other hardy kind1 in the same fashion as in early spring4 ,they are likely to winter well1 and will give an early crop of fine bunching onions4 ,for the ,north1 fall sowing of onion-seed cannot be recommended4 ,parsley4--,lift some plants and set them in a coldframe #d or #e in4 apart1 or in a box filled with good soil1 and place in a light cellar or under a shed4 ,pears4--,pick the winter sorts just before there is danger from freezing4 ,put them in a cool1 dark place1 where they will neither mold nor shrivel4 ,to hasten ripening1 they may be brought into a warm room as wanted4 ,rhubarb4--,if plants are to be set or replanted this fall1 enrich the ground with a superabundance of fine old stable-manure1 and give each plant a few feet of space each way4 ,in order to have fresh pie-plant in winter1 dig up some of the roots and plant them in good soil in a barrel placed in the cellar4 ,sweet-potatoes4--,dig them when ripe after the first frost4 ,cut off the vines1 and turn the potatoes out with a potato-fork or plow4 ,handle them carefully to prevent bruising4 ,only sound1 well-ripened roots are in proper condition to be wintered over4 ,,november ,asparagus4--,manure before winter sets in4 ,beets4--,they keep best in pits4 ,some may be kept in the cellar for use during winter1 but cover them with sand or sods to prevent shriveling4 ,blackberries4--,cut away the old wood and mulch the roots4 ,tender sorts should be laid down and lightly covered with soil at the tips4 ,carrots4--,treat as advised for beets4 ,celery4--,dig up the stalks1 leaving the roots on1 and stand them close together in a narrow trench1 tops just even with the ground-level4 ,gradually cover them with boards1 earth1 and manure4 ,another way is to set them upright upon the floor of a damp cellar or root-house1 keeping the roots moist and the tops dry4 ,celery can stand some frost1 but not exposure to less than #bb ,f4 ,the stalks intended for use before ,christmas may in most localities be left outdoors1 to be used as wanted4 ,should cold weather set in early1 they will need covering in some way4 ,page #dge4 ,orchard management4--,young trees should have a mound of earth raised around the stem as a support and protection against mice1 etc4 ,small and lately planted trees may have stakes set beside them1 and be tied to the stakes with a broad band4 ,apple and pear trees may yet be planted4 ,trim superfluous or unhealthy wood out of the old orchards4 ,spinach4--,cover the beds lightly with leaves or litter before winter sets in4 ,strawberries4--,soon it will be time to mulch the beds4 ,provide marsh hay1 or other coarse litter1 free from weed-seeds1 and when the ground has frozen an inch or so1 spread it all over the surface thinly and evenly4 ,,december ,cabbages4--,plants in coldframes should be aired freely and kept cool4 ,heads intended for winter and spring use1 if not yet taken in or protected from severe freezing1 must now be cared for4 ,do not cover them too deeply1 nor store them in too warm a place4 ,carrots4--,store them in cellars or pits4 ,if in cellars1 keep the roots covered with sand or sod1 to prevent wilting4 ,general garden management4--,begin now to make your plans for next season's work4 ,carefully study up the matter of rotation1 also that of feeding your crops in the most effective and economical manner4 ,repair frames1 sashes1 and tools4 ,clear up the garden and premises4 ,underdrain where needed4 ,beds for early vegetables should be thrown up in high1 narrow ridges1 with deep furrows between4 ,this will enable you to plant them several days or weeks earlier than otherwise4 ,kale4--,in very exposed or northern locations cover it lightly with coarse litter4 ,onions4--,for winter storage select only well-ripened1 perfectly dry bulbs4 ,store them in a dry1 airy place1 not in the cellar4 ,they may be spread out thinly on the floor1 away from the walls1 allowed to freeze solid1 and then covered several feet deep with hay or straw4 ,parsnips4--,take up some roots for winter use and store them in sand in the cellar4 ,strawberry-beds should be given their winter covering of marsh hay1 etc41 as soon as the ground is frozen solid4 ,,suggestions ,,and ,,reminders4--,,ii4 ,,for ,,the ,,south ,,january ,annuals4--,all kinds of hardy annuals and perennials1 such as alyssum1 snapdragon1 foxglove1 hollyhock1 phlox1 poppy1 pansy1 lobelia1 candytuft1 sweet pea1 ,chinese pink1 sweet william1 larkspur1 foliage cinerarias1 centaurea1 mignonette1 and many others of the same class may be sown4 ,most of them should be sown thinly and where they are intended to flower1 as they transplant poorly in this latitude4 ,cannas1 caladiums1 perennial phloxes1 chrysanthemums1 and verbenas may be taken up1 divided1 and replanted4 ,roses may be planted in quantities4 ,let the ground intended for them have a thorough dressing of manure4 ,occasionally a plant may be taken up and divided4 ,the hybrid varieties may now be layered4 ,this is done as follows3 ,select a shoot and bend it flat upon the ground2 hold it in both hands1 having a distance of about #f in4 between them2 keep the left hand firm1 and with the right give the shoot a sharp twist2 now cover it with #d in4 of earth and tie the free end to an upright stake4 ,asparagus beds should be liberally manured4 ,new beds should now be made4 ,set the plants #f in4 deep4 ,sow seed now4 ,beets and all hardy vegetables 7carrots1 parsnips1 turnips1 rutabagas1 kohlrabi1 spinach1 lettuce1 herbs1 etc47 may now be sown1 planted1 or transplanted4 ,cabbage plants should be set out on heavily manured ground4 ,sow seed of ,early ,summer for a later supply4 ,fruits4--,if possible1 all planting and transplanting of fruit-trees and grape-vines should be finished this month4 ,pruning should be completed as soon as possible1 and preparation made to protect the blossoms of tender fruits next month4 ,set out strawberry-plants1 and during dry weather run the cultivator through all old beds that are at all weedy4 ,it is a good plan1 where practicable1 to mulch the beds4 ,here1 pine-straw can be had plentifully for the purpose4 ,examine peach trees for borers4 ,raspberries and blackberries should be pruned now if the work is not already done4 ,cuttings of ,le ,conte pears1 ,marianna plums1 grape-vines1 and pomegranates should be put in at once if they have heretofore been forgotten4 ,root-grafting should be progressing rapidly2 this is the best time for this important work4 ,onion seeds4--,sow at once1 and plant sets as soon as possible4 ,peas4--,sow early and late varieties4 ,the late varieties succeed best if sown at this season4 ,seasonable work4--,this is a good month to obtain canes for staking peas1 tomatoes1 and beans1 hauling manure1 making repairs1 and examining tools1 etc4 ,as the fall crop is harvested1 the land should be prepared for another crop4 ,tile-draining is now is order4 ,prepare frames to cover with canvas for use next month4 ,sweet-potatoes4--,a few may be bedded in a frame from which to obtain 8draws0 for setting out about ,march #ae4 ,tomatoes1 egg-plants1 and peppers4--,sow now on a slight hotbed4 ,when the plants come up1 all the air possible should be given during the day4 ,they can be raised without heat1 but at this season this plan would better be attempted only by the skillful4 ,,february ,asters1 cannas1 dahlias1 heliotropes1 lobelias1 petunias1 pyrethrums1 ricinus1 salvias1 and verbenas are best sown in a coldframe1 where they can have some protection from heavy rain4 ,cannas should be transplanted now4 ,chrysanthemums must be planted in well-manured ground in a position where water can be readily supplied to them4 ,dahlias may be taken up and divided as soon as they begin growth4 ,gladiolus and tuberose bulbs should be planted now4 ,it is a good plan to extend the planting through ,march and ,april4 ,pansies4--,plant them out in the beds where they are to flower4 ,routine work4--,sodding should now proceed rapidly4 ,if sods cannot be obtained1 the ground may be planted with ,bermuda grass4 ,plant small pieces of the grass a foot apart and water them if the weather is dry1 and they will grow rapidly4 ,hedges should be cleared up and put in good shape4 ,all planting of trees and shrubs should be finished this month4 ,all pruning of trees must be done early in the month4 ,young roses cannot be set too early in ,february4 ,they thrive best when planted in fall4 ,roll the drives and repair them when necessary4 ,the lawn will now require constant care1 and the mower should be used before the grass becomes #a-a_/b in4 high4 ,bush-beans may be planted ,february #ad4 ,on alluvial land it is best to plant them on slight rises as a protection against the rains which sometimes occur toward the end of the month4 ,if frost should threaten just as the beans begin to peep out1 cover them an inch deep with the plow or hand cultivator4 ,sow ,early ,mohawk first1 and at the end of the month sow ,early ,valentine2 a week later sow the wax varieties4 ,cabbage1--,sow early varieties1 such as ,early ,summer1 ,early ,drumhead1 and ,early ,flat ,dutch4 ,etampes1 ,extra ,early ,express1 and ,winnigstadt sown for small heads in the order named have done very well in southern ,louisiana4 ,the earlier sown plants should be transplanted as often as convenient4 ,should worms cause trouble1 dust the plants with a mixture of one part of pyrethrum powder to six of fine dust4 ,carrots1 celery1 beets1 endive1 kohlrabi1 onion sets1 parsley1 parsnips1 radishes and purple-top turnips must now be sown4 ,corn4--,plant ,extra ,early ,adams1 ,yellow ,canada1 ,stowell ,evergreen1 and ,white ,flint toward the middle of the month4 ,sow again a week later1 and again after another week4 ,if the first two sowings fail1 the last one will give the early crop4 ,cucumbers4--,sow and protect with small boxes during cold days and nights1 or sow in pots or on sods4 ,protect the seedlings with sashes or canvas1 and plant them out late4 ,lettuce4--,sow seeds and transplant the plants on hand4 ,this crop requires a soil well supplied with plant-food4 ,melons4--,plant seeds in the same manner as advised for cucumbers4 ,okra4--,sow seeds on sods and set out the plants next month4 ,peas4--,sow seeds of a number of varieties4 ,peppers and egg-plants1 if not sown last month1 should be sown now4 ,sow them under glazed sashes and keep close4 ,when the plants appear1 give some air1 and increase it according to the weather4 ,if a large number of plants is required1 the sowing may be delayed until next month4 ,should flea-beetles trouble you1 use plenty of bordeaux on egg-plants4 ,potatoes1 ,irish4--,the main crop should be planted as early as possible4 ,standard varieties are ,early ,rose1 ,peerless1 and ,burbank4 ,strawberries4--,run the cultivator through them at least once every three weeks2 if they are to be mulched1 collect the necessary material4 ,strawberries planted in ,february seldom yield much of a crop4 ,sweet-potatoes1 can now be bedded and protected with canvas1 or a row or two of whole tubers may be planted for 8draws0 and vines4 ,tomatoes in frames should be given all the air and light possible and plenty of room if protected with canvas1 do not allow the plants to crowd4 ,,march ,beans4--,sow all varieties for a fall crop4 ,as soon as the plants appear1 the cultivator must be run through the crop1 and kept going as often as necessary4 ,corn4--,continue to plant2 and we recommend harrowing the patch as soon as the young corn appears4 ,it is generally planted in hills #c or #d ft4 apart1 but better results will be obtained-by planting in drills and leaving one stalk every #ab in4 ,cucumbers4--,sow in hills #d ft4 apart1 using a liberal quantity of seed to each hill4 ,when the plants come up1 thin them to about six in the hill4 ,when the plants begin to get rough leaves1 pull out one or two more from each hill4 ,striped cucumber-beetles are sometimes very numerous1 and in order to get a stand of plants it is necessary to go through the patch early every morning and sprinkle all the hills with air-slaked lime4 ,egg-plants4--,toward the end of the month the plants growing in frames may be transplanted to their fruiting quarters4 ,seed may be sown outside after ,march #ae2 sooner if a warm and sheltered spot is selected4 ,lettuce4--,sow in drills1 and when the plants are large enough1 thin to a foot apart4 ,if transplanted at this season1 they often go to seed4 ,okra4--,a sowing may be made now1 but the main planting would best be deferred until after ,march #ae4 ,sow in drills #c ft4 apart and thin the plants to #ah in4 apart in the drills4 ,peas4--,early varieties may be sown2 it is now too late to sow tall-growing kinds4 ,peppers4--,treat as advised for egg-plants4 ,potatoes1 ,irish4--,it is not too late to plant them1 but the sooner they are planted the better4 ,the crop planted in ,february should be harrowed as soon as the shoots begin to come up1 and when the rows can be fairly seen1 the cultivator must be set to work to keep down weeds and grass4 ,squashes4--,plant seed in hills #f ft4 apart4 ,the directions for planting melons may be followed4 ,the same remarks apply to pumpkins and other vegetables of this kind4 ,sweet-potatoes4--,if slips or vines are at hand1 they may be planted late in the month for the earliest tubers4 ,the whole potatoes may be planted on a ridge to yield vines for later planting4 ,strawberries4--,the mulching of beds or rows should be no longer delayed1 if clean and plentiful fruit is wanted4 ,tomatoes4--,about ,march #ae the frame plants may go to their fruiting quarters4 ,it is necessary to use some judgment in this matter1 as they may be killed or injured by an ,april frost4 ,seed may be sown in the open ground for plants for late fruiting4 ,set the plants #d ft4 apart each way4 ,,april ,alternantheras should go out now4 ,annuals of all kinds may still be sown where they are to flower1 as they transplant with difficulty at this season4 ,coleuses4--,plant out in the beds now4 ,cuttings root readily1 simply requiring to be stuck in4 ,beans of all kinds can be planted1 limas especially4 ,beets4--,make another sowing4 ,cabbage plants obtained from spring sowings should be set out as soon as fit4 ,the ground requires to be very rich to carry this crop4 ,cucumbers4--,these can be sown anywhere now4 ,corn4--,make a sowing to yield roasting ears to come in after that sown last month4 ,okra4--,sow in drills #c or #d ft4 apart4 ,peas4--,make a sowing of early varieties for the last time4 ,squash 7bush7 and pumpkin may now be planted4 ,tomatoes should be got out to their fruiting quarters as early in the month as possible4 ,let them be set at least #d ft4 apart each way4 ,,may ,beans4--,plant a few more bush and pole beans4 ,celery may now be started4 ,the bed or box needs plenty of water1 and should be shaded from sun4 ,lettuce requires careful handling to encourage it to germinate4 ,it is best sown in a box and kept shaded and moist4 ,melons1 cucumbers1 squashes1 and pumpkins may be sown4 ,radishes4--,sow the yellow and white summer varieties4 ,remarks4--,it is a constant struggle with weeds throughout this month1 and the cultivator and plow are ever going4 ,as the land becomes vacant1 sow corn or plant sweet-potatoes--draws or vines4 ,sow some late ,italian cauliflower4 ,let the orchard have constant and thorough cultivation1 and remove all unnecessary growth from the trees as soon as they appear4 ,be always on the lookout for borers4 ,keep the strawberries as free of grass and coco1 or knob-grass1 as possible4 ,,june ,beans4--,all kinds may now be sown4 ,cauliflower4--,sow the ,italian kinds4 ,corn4--,make a planting at the beginning of the month and again at the end4 ,cucumbers4--,plant a few more hills4 ,the plants at this season must be given plenty of water4 ,endive4--,sow1 and attend to the tying up of the plants that are of sufficient size4 ,melons4--,sow for a succession a few more water and muskmelons4 ,okra may still be sown4 ,radishes4--,sow the summer varieties now4 ,squashes and pumpkins may yet be sown4 ,sweet-potato vines may now be set out in quantities4 ,tomatoes4--,about the middle of the month sow for the fall crop4 ,,july ,beans4--,bush and pole beans may be planted towards the end of the month4 ,cabbage and cauliflower may now be sown1 but the main sowing should be deferred until next month4 ,carrots4--,a sowing should be made4 ,celery4--,sow and transplant what plants there may be on hand4 ,cucumbers4--,these may be sown now for pickling4 ,endive4--,transplant and sow4 ,grapes should be kept well tied to trellis1 and unnecessary growth removed1 so that the wood may have the chance of becoming thoroughly ripened4 ,if the cultivator and plow are not used judiciously1 a second growth will be started1 which is not desirable4 ,lettuce4--,the seed requires to be sprouted before being sown1 and if the sowing is done on a dry day the drills should be watered4 ,radishes4--,sow the summer kinds4 ,strawberries4--,keep the beds clean of weeds and grass4 ,tomatoes4--,make a sowing early in the month1 or1 what is much better1 take cuttings from plants still in bearing4 ,turnips4--,sow a few after a shower towards the end of the month4 ,remarks4--,much cannot be done this month1 as the weather is hot and dry1 but the opportunity should not be lost for killing weeds and preparing for the planting season1 which is now rapidly drawing near4 ,,august ,artichokes4--,seed of the ,green ,globe may be sown now and large plants obtained by spring4 ,the seed-bed requires to be shaded4 ,bush beans1 beets1 pole beans1 carrots1 celery1 endive1 kohlrabi1 lettuce1 mustard1 ,black ,spanish and ,rose ,china radishes1 parsley1 turnips1 rutabagas1 and salad plants of all kinds may now be sown4 ,the seed should be sown on small ridges1 adaptable to the kind of plants1 for level culture is not successful in the vegetable garden in this section4 ,broccoli should be more grown1 for it is hardier than the cauliflower4 ,many cannot tell the difference between the two4 ,sow now4 ,cabbages must be sown by the middle of the month4 ,make the ground very rich and shade the seed-bed1 keeping it moist during the whole of the time4 ,cauliflower should also be sown4 ,potatoes1 ,irish1 should be planted by the middle of the month1 if possible4 ,plant only those that have sprouted1 and instead of planting on top of the ridge set in the furrow and cover #b in4 deep2 as the potatoes grow1 work more soil down to them4 ,salsify4--,sow now or early next month4 ,shallots4--,plant them now4 ,squash4--,bush kinds may be planted now at any time4 ,sweet-potatoes4--,vines may still be set out1 with prospects of harvesting a fair crop4 ,tomatoes4--,if short of plants1 cut off good-sized limbs from bearing plants and plant them deep4 ,keep them moist1 and they will root in a few days4 ,do this just before it rains4 ,,september ,annuals of the hardy class may be sown this month3 the following list will assist in making a selection3 ,calliopsis1 candytuft1 calendulas1 canterbury bells1 columbine1 corn-flower1 daisies1 forget-me-nots1 gaillardia1 godetia1 larkspur1 ,limnanthes ,douglasii1 mignonette1 pansies1 ,phlox ,drummondii1 primroses1 poppies of all kinds1 ,saponaria ,calabrica1 ,silene pendula1 sweet williams1 and sweet peas4 ,bulbs4--,study the catalogues and make out your wants1 for it is nearing planting time4 ,lilies4--,if success is required of the ,st4 ,joseph's or ,virgin lily 7,l4 candidum71 it must be planted right away4 ,perennials and biennials should be sown early this month4 ,they have two good growing months ahead of them yet to make considerable progress4 ,the seed-bed will require shade during the middle of the day until the young plants come up2 frequent weedings will be required1 as coco has not yet quit growing1 and winter weeds are now putting in an appearance4 ,remarks4--,all plants used for salad purposes may be sown this month4 ,the ground between the rows of growing crops should be kept in a fine1 friable condition4 ,vegetable seeds of all kinds should always be sown on slight ridges on all but very sandy soils4 ,if the seed is sown on a level bed1 as practiced at the ,north1 the ground will become as hard as a turnpike road should a heavy rain occur2 and should this shower come along before the plants are up1 a crust a quarter of an inch deep will be formed1 and the plants will never see daylight4 ,sown on a ridge they come all right1 as the water gradually drains away1 leaving the top of the ridge loose and soft4 ,,october ,all spring flower seeds should be sown in boxes or trays in the conservatory1 and all spring bulbs should be planted4 ,the hyacinth1 narcissus1 tulip and anemone1 ranunculus and various lily bulbs1 will bloom in good season planted at this time4 ,the bedding plants should be carefully watched1 so that any attack of aphis may be treated immediately4 ,sweet peas may be planted the first of this month1 although they are commonly sown in ,september4 ,a rich spot should be selected for them4 ,this is the time to make the new lawn4 ,the soil should be thoroughly stirred and well pulverized1 mixing in a good dressing of commercial fertilizer1 or1 if one prefers it1 a mixture which may be made at home1 consisting of cotton-seed meal1 acid phosphate1 and sulfate of potash1 at the rate of #ajjj lb41 #cjj lb41 and #ajj lb4 respectively1 per acre4 ,a rich1 well-rotted compost1 as a top dressing1 would also be highly beneficial4 ,roses pruned late in ,september or early this month will produce fine winter blooms4 ,in the garden this is a busy month2 some of the winter vegetables are growing1 and others should be sown4 ,the bud artichokes should be separated and set fully #c ft4 apart4 ,onions may still be sown in the early part of the month1 and shallots should be divided and set4 ,some beans may be risked1 and ,english peas sown for winter crop4 ,a few cauliflowers may be tried and cucumbers planted in pots for the hotbeds next month4 ,the following vegetables should be sown3 ,carrots1 corn salad1 chervil1 ,brussels sprouts1 broccoli1 beets1 endive1 kohlrabi1 kale1 lettuce1 leeks1 mustard1 parsley1 parsnip1 radish1 roquette1 spinach1 ,swiss chard1 salsify4 ,some cabbage and a few cauliflowers should be added to the list4 ,turnips should be sown for succession every two weeks until ,april or ,may4 ,the celery should be kept growing and banking up commenced4 ,this is an excellent time to plant the new strawberry bed4 ,make the bed rich with well-rotted manure and select good1 healthy sets4 ,the ,michel's ,early and ,cloud are probably the most popular varieties for general planting1 and should be set in alternating rows4 ,,november ,flower seeds and bulbs may be planted this month of the same varieties as in ,october4 ,cuttings of all the herbaceous plants should be made and potted1 for use in the house and for the borders next season4 ,the coldframes should also be put in order4 ,some of the bulbs for winter forcing should be selected and potted4 ,one of the best ,louisiana gardeners recommends the following treatment3 ,select good1 strong bulbs and plant them in rich1 light soil1 in #e-;in4 pots1 covering them about half an inch4 ,water well and bury the pots #f or #h in4 deep in the ground1 leaving them there about five weeks1 when the bulbs will be found to be well rooted4 ,from this time gradually expose to the light1 and they will soon put forth blooms4 ,the same vegetables may be sown as for ,october1 and the late cabbage seed planted4 ,the ,flat ,dutch and ,drumhead strains are prime favorites4 ,new sowings of peas1 turnips1 mustard1 and radishes should be made1 and the hotbeds prepared and set out to cucumbers4 ,too much care cannot be taken that the manure should be in the best condition possible1 so that a good supply of heat may be depended upon4 ,the cucumbers planted last month will be ready now for setting in the hotbeds1 and a winter crop forced4 ,orchard and vineyard planting4--,this is the time to prepare land4 ,that on which a late crop of cowpeas has grown is well suited for the purpose1 and should be plowed deeply and well worked over4 ,towards the last of the month it should be cultivated again1 in order to be ready for the trees next month4 ,,december ,lawns and yards need watching this month1 and attention should be paid to the old leaves and fall rubbish1 which makes the yard look untidy4 ,a good place for the leaves is the compost heap4 ,hedges should be put in shape and the surface drains kept open4 ,shrubs and roses should be pruned for an early supply of flowers4 ,the ,camellia ,japonicas are now in bloom1 and care should be taken that the small branches are not torn off1 instead of being cut properly4 ,many of these most beautiful of southern ornamental trees have been ruined by careless plucking of flowers4 ,garden and orchard4--,many of the fall vegetables may be sown this month and others sown for a succession4 ,peas1 spinach1 roquette1 radishes1 lettuce1 endive1 and some ,early ,york cabbage should also be sown4 ,in the old spent hotbeds1 tomatoes1 peppers1 and egg-plants may be started2 there will not be enough heat to hurry them1 and good1 strong stocky plants will be secured if care is taken4 ,irish potatoes may be risked1 should there be a favorable time for planting during the latter part of the month4 ,usually they are planted in ,january4 ,the chances are about equal should they be planted late this month4 ,nuts of all kinds1 both for budding and otherwise1 should be planted4 ,some of the best ,louisiana pecans are said to come true from seed1 and may be sown where they are intended to grow4 ,,index ,the flowering annuals1 being mostly in alphabetical list1 are not indexed here4 ,abelia grandiflora1 #cjf4 abies species1 #cce1 #ccf4 ,abobra viridiflora1 #caa4 abutilons1 #cea4 acacia1 rose1 #cjj4 acalypha1 #bcj4 acer1 species1 #cbb1 #cbc1 #ccj4 ,achillea ,ptarmica1 #bfi1 #bgc4 achyranthes1 #bcf1 #cdd4 aconites1 #bgc4 actinidia1 #baf1 #cjh1 #caf4 adiantums1 #cgb4 adlumia1 #caj4 ,adonis vernalis1 #bgc4 sculus species1 #bic1 #cbc4 ,african lily1 #cea4 agapanthus1 #cea4 agave1 #cfd4 ,agrostemma ,coronaria1 #bgd4 ,agrostis nebulosa1 #bde4 ailanthus1 shoots of1 #ef4 ,ajuga reptans1 #bfg4 akebia1 #baf1 #cjh1 #caf4 alder1 #bic1 #cbc4 alliums1 #bhi4 almond1 #dae4 alpine plants1 #bcb4 alstremeria1 #ceb4 alternanthera1 #bce1 #bcg1 #bci4 ,altha frutex1 #big4 ,altha rosea1 #bga4 ,alyssum saxatile1 #bfg4 amarantus1 #bcj4 amaryllis1 #ceb4 ,amelanchier ,canadensis1 #bic4 ammoniacal carbonate of copper1 #aig4 ampelopsis species1 #cjh1 #cji1 #cad4 andromeda1 #bii1 #cjf4 anemone1 #bfd1 #bfe1 #bfi1 #bgc1 #bgd1 #cec4 anise1 #dfj4 anise-tree1 #cjf4 annuals for bedding1 #bdi4 annuals that bloom after frost1 #bdh4 annuals by color1 #bdf4 annuals1 cultivation of1 #bda4 annuals listed by height1 #bea4 annuals for ribbon-beds1 #bdh4 annuals1 distances apart1 #bef4 ,anthemis coronaria1 #cdd4 ,anthemis ,kelwayi1 #bgd4 ,anthemis tinctoria1 #bga4 ,antigonon leptopus1 #cac4 aphis1 #aih1 #bjj4 ,apios tuberosa1 #cac4 apple1 culture of1 #daf4 apple-maggot1 #aii4 apple-scab1 #bjg1 #dag4 apricot1 culture of1 #dbj4 aquarium1 #cdh4 aquatic plants1 #bcj4 aquilegias1 #bfg1 #bfi1 #bgd4 ,arabis albida1 #bfe4 ,arabis alpina1 #bgd4 ,aralia ,sieboldii1 #bcj1 #ced4 araucaria1 #cdd1 #ced4 arborvit1 #bba1 #ccc1 #ccf4 ,arbutus ,unedo1 #cjf4 architect's garden1 #ab4 ardisia1 #cjf4 aristolochia1 #cag4 ,arnebia echioides1 #bgd4 arsenate of lead formula1 #aic4 artemisias1 #bgc1 #cfe4 ,artemisia ,stelleriana1 #bfc4 artichoke1 #dfb1 #dfc4 ,aruncus ,sylvester1 #bfd4 ,arundo ,donax1 #df1 #bfd4 ,asclepias tuberosa1 #bfd1 #bgd4 ashes1 #aaa4 ash1 mountain1 #cbi4 ash trees1 #cbd1 #ccj4 asparagus1 #dfa4 asparagus beetle1 #aii4 ,asparagus medeoloides1 #dja4 ,asparagus plumosus and tenuissimus1 #cag1 #cdd4 asparagus rust1 #bjh4 ,asparagus ,sprengeri1 #cdj4 aspen1 #cbf4 asperula1 #bfi4 aspidistra1 #cdj4 asters1 native1 #bfd1 #bgd1 #bge4 ,astilbe ,japonica1 #bfi4 ,aubrietia deltoidea1 #bfe4 aucuba1 #cdd4 auricula1 #ced4 azalea1 culture of1 #cee4 azalea species1 #bic1 #cje1 #cjf4 ,baccharis halimifolia1 #bia1 #bic4 ,bacterium tumefaciens1 #ahj4 balm1 #dfj4 bamboos1 #bcj1 #bfd4 ,baptisia tinctoria1 #bfd4 basil1 #dfj4 baskets1 hanging1 #cdh4 basswood1 #cbi4 bay-tree1 #cjf4 bean1 #dei1 #dfc4 bedding1 #bbh4 beech1 #cbd4 beet1 #def1 #dff4 begonias1 #cef4 belladonna lily1 #bhg1 #ceb4 ,bellis perennis1 #bfe4 ,benzoin odoriferum1 #bic4 ,berberis ,aquifolium1 #bic4 ,berberis ,japonica1 #cjf4 ,berberis ,thunbergii1 #eb1 #bba1 #bib1 #bic1 #cjf4 ,berberis vulgaris1 #ea1 #bic4 ,bermuda buttercup1 #chd4 ,bermuda-grass1 #hj4 betula species1 #bic1 #cbc1 #cbd4 bignonia species1 #cad1 #cae4 billbergia1 #cdd4 biota1 #ccf4 birds1 #af4 bitternut1 #cbe4 bitter-sweet1 #cae4 bitter-sweet1 false1 #cag4 blackberries1 laying down #ach41 blackberry1 culture of1 #dbj4 blackberry1 disease of1 #bab4 blackberry insects1 #bje4 black-rot1 #bji4 bladder nut1 #cjb1 #cjc4 bleeding-heart1 #bfg1 #bgf4 blister-mite1 #aii4 blood as fertilizer1 #aab4 bloodroot1 #bfe4 blue beech1 #cbd4 blue-grass1 #gh4 ,bocconia cordata1 #bfc4 bog plants1 #bcj4 bolting trees1 #adi4 boltonias1 #bge4 boneblack1 #aac4 bone1 ground1 #aac4 bordeaux mixture1 #aif4 borders1 making1 #gd1 #bbb4 borers1 #aii1 #dag4 bougainvillea1 #cah4 ,boussingaultia baselloides1 #cac1 #cdd4 bouvardia1 #cdd4 box1 #bic1 #cjf4 box-elder1 #cbc4 boxthorn1 #cae4 bridge-grafting1 #adh4 ,bridgeman1 mentioned1 #b4 broccoli1 #dfg4 ,bromus brizformis1 #bde4 brooks1 treatment of1 broom1 #cjf4 brussels sprouts1 buckthorn1 #bba1 #bii4 budding1 #aea4 bud-moth1 #bjj4 buffalo berry1 #cjb4 ,buist1 mentioned1 #b4 bulbocodium1 #bhi4 bulbs1 culture of1 #bha4 bulbs in window-garden1 #cde4 burdock1 ornamental1 #c4 ,burnette1 ,f4 ,h41 quoted1 #eja4 burning bush1 #bif4 button-bush1 #bid4 buttercups1 tuberous1 #bhi4 butternut1 #cbe4 buttonwood1 #cbf4 ,buxus sempervirens1 #bic4 cabbage1 culture1 #deg1 #dfh4 cabbage1 storing1 #aei1 #dgj1 #eac1 #eae4 cabbage diseases1 #bjh1 #dfi4 cabbage insects1 #bjj1 #deg1 #dfi4 cabbage maggots1 #ahg1 #bja #dfi4 cactus1 #ceh4 caladium1 #bcj1 #cei4 calceolaria1 #cfj4 calendars1 #eja4 calla1 #cfj4 ,calla palustris1 #bfd4 ,callicarpa ,americana1 #cje4 callirrho1 #bfi4 ,calycanthus floridus1 #bic1 #cje4 camassia1 #bhi4 camellias1 #cjf1 #cfa4 campanulas1 #bfi1 #bgb1 #bge4 candytuft1 perennial1 #bfe1 #bgg4 canker-worm1 #bja1 #dag4 cannas1 #cfa4 capsicum1 #dia4 ,capsicum frutescens1 #cjf4 caragana species1 #bid4 caraway1 #dfj4 carbolic acid emulsion1 #aid4 carbonate of copper1 #aig4 cardinal flower1 #bgb4 cardiospermum1 #caj4 carex for ground cover1 #hf4 carnation rust1 #bjh4 carnations1 #cfc4 carpet-bedding1 mentioned1 #g1 #cj1 #bbg4 carpet-beds described1 #bcd4 ,carpinus ,americana1 #cbd4 carrot1 #def1 #dga4 carya species1 #cbe4 ,caryopteris ,mastacanthus1 #bia1 #bid1 #cje4 caryota1 #che4 case-bearers1 #bja4 ,cassia ,marilandica1 #bfd4 castanea species1 #bid1 #cbd4 catalpa species1 #cbd1 #ccj4 catnip1 #dfj4 cats1 #af4 cat-tail1 #bcb1 #bfd4 cauliflower1 #deg1 #dga4 cauliflower diseases1 #bjh4 cauliflower insects1 #bjj4 ceanothus1 #bid1 #cje4 cedar1 #ccf4 cedrus species1 #ccf4 ,celastrus scandens1 #baf4 celastrus species1 #cag4 celeriac1 #dgb4 celery1 #dgc4 cellared stock1 #bij4 cellars1 #aeh1 #dge4 ,celtis occidentalis1 #cbd1 #ccj4 ,centrosema ,virginiana1 #caa4 century plants1 #ch1 #cfd4 cephalanthus1 #bia1 #bid4 cephalotaxus1 #ccf4 ,cercidiphyllum ,japonicum1 #cbd4 ,cercis ,canadensis1 #cbd1 #ccj4 cereus1 #ceh4 chafer1 rose1 #bjf4 chamcyparis species1 #ccc1 #ccf4 chamrops1 #cjf1 #che4 chamomile1 #bga4 chard1 #dge4 cherry1 culture1 #dbb4 cherry diseases1 #baa4 cherry1 ornamental1 #cbg4 cherry trees1 shapes of1 #dc1 #dd4 chervil1 #dgf4 chestnut1 culture of1 #dcc4 chestnut disease1 #bjh4 chickens in gardens1 #agh4 chickory1 #dgf4 ,chilopsis linearis1 #cje4 ,china-berry1 #ccj4 ,chinese sacred lily1 #bhi1 #chc4 chinquapin1 #bid4 ,chionanthus ,virginica1 #bid1 #cje4 chionodoxa1 #bhi4 chrysanthemums1 #cfe4 chrysanthemums1 hardy1 #bgc4 chrysanthemum disease1 #bji4 ,chrysanthemum frutescens1 #cfe4 chrysanthemum protection1 #ccg4 ,chrysanthemum uliginosum1 #bgb1 #bhj4 cineraria1 #cfg4 ,cineraria maritima1 #bce4 cinnamon vine1 #cac4 cinquefoil1 #bii4 ,citrus trifoliata1 #bba1 #cjf4 cives1 #dgg4 ,cladrastis tinctoria1 #cbd4 clary1 #dfj4 ,claytonia ,virginica1 #bfe4 clematis1 #baf1 #bge1 #caj1 #caa1 #cad1 #cfg4 ,clethra alnifolia1 #bid1 #cjf4 ,cleyera ,japonica1 #cjf4 climbing plants1 #cjg4 clothes-post1 #ee4 club-root1 #bjh1 #dfi4 ,cobbett1 mentioned1 #b4 cobnuts1 #dcc4 ,coba scandens1 #cdd4 ,coccinea ,indica1 #caa4 ,cocos ,weddelliana1 #che4 ,codium1 #cfi4 ,codlin-moth1 #bja1 #dag4 ,coffee tree1 #cbe4 ,coix ,lachryma1 #bde4 colchicum1 #bhd4 coldframes1 #afd4 cold storage1 #afj4 coleus1 #cfh4 collards1 #dgf4 colocasia1 #bcj1 #cei4 coltsfoot for banks1 #baf4 columbines1 #bfg1 #bfi1 #bgd4 ,colutea arborescens1 #bid4 comfrey1 #baf4 compass plant1 #bfc4 conifers1 discussion on1 #cca4 conservation of moisture1 #ig4 ,convallaria majalis1 #bfg1 #bge4 ,convolvulus ,japonicus and ,sepium1 #cac4 corchorus1 #bih1 #cjf4 coreopsis species1 #bge4 coriander1 #dfj_/ corn1 sweet1 #dgg4 corn salad1 #dgg4 ,cornus ,baileyi1 #df4 ,cornus ,mas1 #ea4 cornus species1 #bib1 #bid1 #bie4 corrosive sublimate for scab1 #aij4 ,corydalis lutea1 #bfi4 ,corydalis nobilis1 #bfg4 corylus species1 #bie4 costmary1 #dfj4 cotoneaster1 #bbb1 #bie1 #cjf4 cottonwood1 #cbf4 cowpea1 #dfd4 coxcomb for bedding1 #bcj4 crab cactus1 #cei4 crab trees1 #cbg4 cranberry1 #dbc4 crape myrtle1 #cje4 cratgus species1 #bie4 cress1 #dgh4 crocus1 #cfh4 crocus1 fall blooming1 #bhd4 ,crosby1 quoted1 #aih4 croton1 #cfi4 crown-galls1 #ahj4 crown imperial1 #bhi4 cryptomeria1 #ccf4 cucumber1 #deh1 #dgh4 cucumber diseases1 #bji4 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