,,! ,,elegant ,,art ,,( ,,d9+           
,bohemian ,san ,francisco  ,its         
,re/aurants & ,_! ,mo/ ,fam\s ,recipes--
 ,! ,elegant ,art ( ,d9+    ,by ,cl>5ce 
,e4 ,edwords    #aiad    ,d$ication ,to 
,:om ,%all ,i ,d$icate ,?is ,book8 ,to  
,"s ,good ,fri5d8 ,to ,"s ,pleasant     
,companion8 ,to ,none ( ,^!1 ,= ,f ,!m  
,came ,n ,! ,inspiration4 ,to ,:om1 ,!n8
 ,to ,! ,be/ ,( ,all ,bohemian          
,comrades1 ,my ,wife4    ,=eword    ,no 
apologies are (f]$ = ?is book4 ,9 fact1 
we r l x4 ,_m ye>s h be5 sp5t 9 ga!r+   
?is in=mation1 & naught is writt5 9     
malice1 nor ?r\gh favoritism1 our       
expressions ( op9ion be+ unbias$ by     
favor or comp5sation4 ,we h made our own
 inve/igation & giv5 our own ideas4  ,t 
our op9ion does n co9cide ) t ( o!rs    
does n conc]n u 9 ! lea/1 = we are      
pleas$ only ) t :i* pleases u1 & n t )  
:i* o!rs say we ought to be pleas$4  ,if
 ?is s\nd egoti/ical we are sorry1 = x  
is n meant 9 t way4 ,we believe t ea* & 
e individual %\ld judge = him or h]self1

 consid]+ ourselves =tunate t our ideas 
& ta/es are held 9 common4  ,san        
,franciscans1 bo? resid5tial & transi5t1
 are a pleasure-lov+ p1 & d9+ out is a  
di/9ctive feature ( _! pleasure4 ,)     
hundr$s ( re/aurants to select f1 ea*   
specializ+ on "s p>ticul> di%1 or "s    
peculi> mode ( prep>ation1 "o (t5       
becomes bewild]$ & turns to famili>     
names on ! m5u c>d r ?an v5ture into    
fields t are new1 ( /range & r>e di%es  
^: unpron\nceable names ( !mselves      
frequ5tly are suffici5t to disc\rage ^? 
unaccu/om$ to ! art & sci5ce ( cook+    
practic$ by ^? ^: lives h be5 sp5t      
devis+ means ( tickl+ fa/idi\s palates (
 a city ( g\rmets4  ,9 ord] t ^? :o come
 )9 our gates1 & _m o!rs :o h resid$ "h 
9 bl9dness = ye>s1 may "k :]e to g & :at
 to eat1 & t !y may c>ry away ) !m a k (
 h[ to prep>e "s ( ! di%es pleas+ to !  
ta/e & n\ri%+ to ! body1 t h spread ,san
 ,francisco's fame ov] ! _w1 we h decid$
 to set d[n ! result ( our exp]i5ce &   
/udy ( our ,bohemian population & _!    

ways1 & also tell :]e to f9d & h[ to    
ord] ! be/ special di%es4  ,ov] ,nor?   
,bea* way we ask$ ! *ef ( a little      
re/aurant h[ he cook$ crab4 ,he repli$3 
,! "r way4  ,"o (t5 wond]s h[ c]ta9     
di%es are cook$ & we %all tell y ! "r   
way4  ,x is hop$ t :5 y read :at is h]e9
 writt5 "s ( our pleasure may be imp>t$ 
to y1 & ) ?is hope ! /ory ( ,san        
,francisco's ,bohemianism is pres5t$4   
,cl>5ce ,e4 ,edwords4 ,san ,francisco1  
,cali=nia1 ,septemb] #bb1 #aiad4    ,our
 ,toa/  ,n to ! ,future1 nor to ! ,pa/2 
,no dr9k ( ,joy or ,sorr[2 ,we dr9k     
alone to :at w la/2 ,memories on !      
,morr[4 ,let u live z ,old ,"t passes2  
,to ! ,pres5t let ,bohemia b[4 ,let u   
raise on high our glasses ,to           
,et]nity--! ev]-liv+ ,n[4    ,cont5ts   
,=eword ,! ,good ,gray ,city ,! ,l& (   
,bohemia ,z x 0 9 ! ,beg9n+ ,:5 ! ,gr+o 
,came ,e>ly ,italian ,impression ,bir? (
 ! ,fr5* ,re/aurant ,at ! ,cliff ,h\se  
,"s ,italian ,re/aurants ,impress (     
,mexico ,on ! ,b>b>y ,coa/ ,! ,city ,t  

,0 ,passes ,sang ! ,swan ,song ,bohemia 
( ! ,pres5t ,z x is 9 ,g]many ,9 ! ,he>t
 ( ,italy ,a ,brea? ( ! ,ori5t ,arti/ic 
,japan ,old & ,new ,palace ,at ! ,hotel 
,/4 ,francis ,amid ! ,bright ,lights    
,ar\nd ,little ,italy ,:]e ,fi% ,come ,9
 ,fi% 9 ,_! ,v>iety ,lob/]s & ,lob/]s   
,k+ ( ,%ell ,fi% ,lob/] ,9 ,m9iature    
,clams & ,abalone's ,:]e ,fi% ,ab\nd ,"s
 ,food ,v>iants ,ab\t ,d9+ ,some?+ ,ab\t
 ,cook+ ,told 9 ,a ,:isp] ,out ( ,no?+  
,pa/e ,makes ,wai/ ,tips & ,tipp+ ,!    
,my?ical ,l& ,app5dix 7,h[ to ,s]ve     
,w9es1 ,recipes7 ,index    ,bohemian    
,san ,francisco  ,! be/ ( all ways ,to  
l5g!n our days ,is to /eal a few h\rs ,f
 ! night1 my de>4    ,! ,good ,gray     
,city ,san ,francisco6  ,san ,francisco6
 ,is !re a l& :]e ! magic ( t "n has n  
be5 felt8 ,bohemian ,san ,francisco6    
,pleasure-lov+ ,san ,francisco6         
,c>e-free ,san ,francisco6 ,yet )al !   
city :]e lib]ty nev] means lic5se & :]e 
,bohemianism is n synonym\s )           
,boori%ness4  ,x 0 9 ,p>is t a _w       

travel] said to u3  ,san ,francisco6 ,t 
wond]ful city :]e y get ! be/ !re is to 
eat1 s]v$ 9 a mann] t enhances its      
flavor & e/abli%es x =ev] 9 y\r memory4 
,7 "o to write ( ,san ,francisco & omit 
m5tion ( its gu/atory delights ! :ole _w
 w\ld prote/1 = 9 ,san ,francisco eat+  
is an art & cook+ a sci5ce1 & he :o kn[s
 n :at ,san ,francisco provides kn[s    
nei!r art nor sci5ce4  ,"h h congregat$ 
! _w's greate/ *efs1 & :5 "o exclaims 9 
ec/asy ov] a wond]ful flavor f\nd 9 "s  
d+y re/aurant1 let him n be surpris$ if 
he le>n t ! *ef :o concoct$ ! di% boa/s 
royal decoration = tickl+ ! palate ( "s 
epicurean rul] ( =eign l&4  ,& :y %\ld  
,san ,francisco h a*iev$ ?is di/9ction 9
 ! m9ds ( ! g\rmets8  ,d n o!r cities h 
equally z good *efs1 & d n ! p ( o!r    
cities h equally z f9e ga/ronomic ta/e8 
,!y h all ?is b ) !m is lack+ atmosph]e4
  ,:]e d we f9d su* romanticism z 9 ,san
 ,francisco8 ,:]e d we f9d s _m /range  
*>act]s & happ5+s8 ,all l5d+ almo/ my/ic
 *>m to ! environm5t surr\nd+ que]      

little re/aurants1 :]e r>e di%es are    
s]v$1 & :]e "o feels t he is 9 =eign l&1
 ev5 ?\gh he be 9 ! c5t] ( a high       
repres5tative ,am]ican city4  ,san      
,francisco's cosmopolitanism is peculi> 
to itself4 ,"h are repres5t$ ! nations (
 e>? 9 su* di/9ctive colonies t "o might
 well imag9e himself possess$ ( ! magic 
c>pet told ( 9 ,arabian ,nights ,tales1 
z he is transport$ 9 ! tw9kl+ ( an eye f
 c\ntry to c\ntry4 ,x is b a /ep across 
a /reet f ,am]ica into ,japan1 !n ano!r 
/ep into ,*9a4 ,cross ano!r /reet & y   
are 9 ,mexico1 close neighbor to        
,france4 ,ar\nd ! corn] lies ,italy1 & f
 ,italy y pass to ,lomb>dy1 & on to     
,greece4 ,s x goes until "o feels t he  
has be5 ar\nd ! _w 9 an aft]noon4  ,b ! 
/epp+ across ! /reet & "o passes f "o l&
 to ! o!r1 f9d+ all ! peculi>           
*>act]i/ics ( ! v>i\s c\ntries z        
indelibly fix$ z if !y 7 ?\s&s ( miles  
away4 ,spee*1 mann]s1 cu/oms1 co/umes & 
religions *ange ) />tl+ rapidity1 & z y 
ent] into ! life ( ! nation y f9d t ea* 

has br\ght ! be/ ( its ga/ronomy = y\r  
delectation4  ,san ,francisco has call$ 
to ! _w = its be/1 & ! response has be5 
s prompt t no c\ntry has fail$ to s5d   
its tribute & give ! be/ ?\ght ( ^? :o  
cat] to ! m5 & wom5 :o "k4  ,?is        
aggregation ( cuis9aire1 ga!r$ :]e is to
 be f\nd a mo/ wond]ful v>iety ( food   
products 9 highe/ /ate ( excell5ce1 has 
made ,san ,francisco ! ,mecca = lov]s ( 
gu/atory delights1 & ?is is :y ! "n (   
,san ,francisco is kn[n :]ev] m5 & wom5 
sit at table4  ,x has tak5 u ye>s (     
pati5t rese>* to le>n h[ ^! *efs prep>e 
_! comb9ations ( fi%1 fle%1 f[l1 & h]bs1
 9 ord] t we might put !m d[n1 giv+     
recipes ( di%es ^: memories l+] 9 ! m9ds
 ( _w w&]]s1 & to :i* _! ?\ghts rev]t ) 
a sigh z !y p>take ( unsatisfactory vi&s
 9 o!r c\ntries & o!r cosmopolitan      
cities4  ,^? to :om only ! surface ( ?+s
 is visible are prone to express wond]  
at ! love & en?usiasm ( ! ,san          
,franciscan = 8 home city4 ,! casual    
visitor _c und]/& ! en*antm5t1 ! my/]y1 

! wit*]y t holds "o2 !y d n "k t we /eal
 ! h\rs f ! night to l5g!n our days     
because ! gray1 :isp]+ wrai?s ( fog hold
 = u ! v brea? ( life2 !y d n "k t !    
call ( ! w9d1 & ( ! sea1 & ( ! air1 is !
 inspiration t makes ,san ,francisco !  
pleasure-gr\nd ( ! _w4  ,x is ?is t     
makes ,san ,francisco ! home ( ,bohemia1
 & :e!r x be 9 ! e>ly morn+ h\rs z "o   
rises to greet ! fir/ gray /reaks (     
dawn1 or z ! sun drops ?r\gh ! ,gold5   
,gate to its ocean b$1 s sl[ly t x seems
 lo? to leave2 :e!r x be 9 ! broad gl>e 
( noon-day sun1 or "u ! dazzl+ blaze (  
midnight lights1 ,san ,francisco ev]    
holds out h] arms1 wide 9 welcome1 to ^?
 :o see m 9 life ?an ! dull r\t9e (     
work+ ea* day 9 ord] t !y may ga9       
suffici5t to enable !m to "w aga9 on !  
morr[4    ,! ,l& ( ,bohemia  ,bohemia6  
,:at vulg>ities are p]petrat$ 9 ?y "n6  
,h[ abus$ is ! ^w6 ,because ( a         
misconception ( an idea x has suff]$ m  
?an any o!r 9 ! ,engli% language4 ,x has
 done duty 9 describ+ almo/ e =m (      

lic5se & lic5ti\sness4 ,x has be5 !     
cloak ( debau*]y & ! excuse = sex       
degradation4 ,x has be5 s misus$ z to   
br+ ! v ^w into disrepute4  ,to u       
,bohemianism means ! naturalism ( ref9$ 
p4  ,t x may be protect$ f vulg>ians    
,society prescribes conv5tional rules & 
regulations1 :i*1 l morals1 *ange )     
environm5t4  ,bohemianism is ! prote/ ( 
naturalism aga9/ ! too rigid1 &1        
(t-times1 absurd re/rictions e/abli%$ by
 ,society4  ,! ,bohemian requires no    
prescrib$ rules1 = 8 or h] innate       
g5tility prev5ts ^? ?+s ,society gu>ds  
aga9/4 ,9 ,bohemia m5 & wom5 m+le 9 good
 fell[%ip & cam>ad]ie )\t f9d+ ! sex "q 
a necess>y topic ( conv]sation4 ,!y d n 
f9d x necess>y to pu% exhil>ation to    
intoxication2 to increase _! animation  
to boi/]\sness4 ,_! lack (              
conv5tionality does n t5d to boori%ness4
  ,"s ( ! mo/ enjoyable ,bohemian       
affairs we "k ( h be5 full dress ga!r+s1
 c>efully plann$ & delightfully c>ri$   
out2 o!rs h be5 impromptu1 nei!r ! h\r1 

! place1 nor ! dress be+ tak5 into      
consid]ation4  ,! unref9$ get ev]y:]e1  
ev5 into ! draw+ rooms ( royalty1       
consequ5tly we mu/ expect to meet !m 9  
,bohemia4 ,b ! true ,bohemian has a way 
( =gett+ to meet obnoxi\s p]sonages &1 z
 a rule1 is m *oice 9 ! selection (     
associates ?an ! vaunt$ #djj4 ,) !      
,bohemian b "o ?+ c\nts3 ,fitness4      
,money1 position1 p]sonal appe>ance &   
ev5 bra9s are ( no avail if !re be ! b> 
s9i/]--unfit4  ,9 a re/aurant1 "o ev5+1 
a numb] ( m5 & wom5 7 seat$ conspicu\sly
 at a table 9 ! c5t] ( ! room4 ,fl[+    
neckties su* z are affect$ by ,p>isian  
art /ud5ts 7 worn by ! m52 all 7 co>se1 
l\d & mu* 9 evid5ce4 ,!y n only attract$
 att5tion by _! l\dness & outre actions1
 b !y call$ notice by pelt+ o!r d9]s )  
missiles ( bread4 ,to u !y 7 ! la/ ^w 9 
vulg>ity1 b to a "y woman :o _h come to 
! place because %e _h he>d x 0 s        
,bohemian !y 7 ideal1 & %e rem>k$ to h] 
companion3  ,i d s love to associate )  
real ,bohemians l ^!4 ,c't we get       

acqua9t$ ) !m8  ,sure1 0 ! response4    
,all we h to d is to buy !m a dr9k4  ,9 
,san ,francisco !re are ,bohemians &    
,ne>-,bohemians1 & if y are l ! "y woman
 m5tion$ y are apt to miss ! real & take
 ! imitation = ! g5u9e article4  ,we    
mean no d]ogation ( ,san ,francisco's   
re/aurants :5 we say t ,san ,francisco's
 highe/ =m ( ,bohemianism is r>ely 9    
evid5ce 9 re/aurants4 ,we h enjoy$      
wond]ful ,bohemian d9n]s 9 re/aurants1 b
 ! o!r d9]s 7 n aw>e ( x4 ,"s f> m      
int]e/+ ga!r+s h be5 9 ! rooms (        
,bohemian fri5ds4 ,n always is x !      
arti/ic comb9ation ( fam\s *ef t br+s   
greate/ delight1 = we h z frequ5tly _h  
pleasure ov] a supp] ( "s simple di% 9 !
 attic room ( a good fri5d4  ,?is br+s u
 to ! crux ( ,bohemianism4 ,x dep5ds s  
little on environm5t t x means no?+1 & s
 mu* on companion%ip t x means all4  ,to
 a*ieve a compreh5sive idea ( ,san      
,francisco's ,bohemianism let u divide  
its hi/ory into five eras4 ,fir/ we h ! 
old ,spani% days--! days be=e ! ,gr+o   

came4 ,!n reign$ conviviality held )9   
mo/ discreet b\nds ( conv5tion1 & x w\ld
 be a misnom]1 inde$1 to call !         
pre-pione] days ( ,san ,francisco       
,bohemian 9 any s5se ( ! ^w4  ,c\rtesy  
unfail+1 good-fell[%ip always 9 tune1 & 
lavi% hospitality1 m>k$ ! days ( !      
,dons--^? wond]fully consid]ate ho/s :o 
always plac$ a pile ( gold & silv] co9s 
on ! table ( ! gue/ *amb]1 9 ord] t none
 might g away 9 ne$4 ,_! fea/s 7 ev5ts (
 c>eful consid]ation & long prep>ation1 
& ^? ^: memories c>ry !m back to ! e>ly 
days1 recall b\nte\s load+ ( tables :5  
fe/al occasion call$ = display4  ,lips  
l+] lov+ly ov] su* names z ! ,vallejos1 
! ,picos1 & ^? o!r ,spani% families :o  
spread _! hospitality ) su* wondr\s     
prodigality t _! op5 welcome became a   
by-^w 9 all p>ts ( ! ,we/4  ,b x 0 n 9 !
 gr& fie/as t ! f9e/ & mo/ palatable    
di%es 7 to be f\nd4 ,9 ! family ( ea* ( 
^! ,spani% ,gr&ees 7 cul9>y secrets kn[n
 to none except ! ,s5ora de la ,casa1 & 
transmitt$ by h] to h] sons & daught]s4 

,we h consid]$ ourselves =tunate 9 be+  
tak5 into ! confid5ce ( "o ( !          
desc5dants ( ,s5ora ,b5icia ,vallejo1 & 
honor$ ) "s ( h] prize recipes1 :i* f9d 
place 9 ?is book1 n z ! fam\s recipe (  
"s ,bohemian re/aurants b z ! tribute to
 ! _s ( ! l& t made ^? ,bohemian        
re/aurants possible4 ,( ^! !re is no m  
ta/y & satisfy+ di% ?an ,spani% ,eggs1  
prep>$ z foll[s3  ,spani% ,eggs  ,empty 
a c ( tomatoes 9 a fry+ pan2 ?ick5 )    
bread & add two or ?ree small gre5      
pepp]s & an onion slic$ f9e4 ,add a     
little butt] & salt to ta/e4 ,let ?is   
simm] g5tly & !n c>efully break on top !
 numb] ( eggs desir$4 ,dip ! simm]+     
tomato mixture ov] ! eggs until !y are  
cook$4  ,ano!r favorite recipe ( ,mrs4  
,vallejo 0 ,spani% ,beef/eak prep>$ z   
foll[s3  ,spani% ,beef/eak  ,cut ! /eak 
into pieces ! size desir$ = s]v+4 ,place
 ^! pieces on a meat bo>d & spr9kle     
lib]ally ) fl\r4 ,) a wood5 corrugat$   
mallet beat ! fl\r into ! /eak4 ,fry !  
/eak 9 a pan ) olive oil4 ,9 ano!r fry+ 

pan1 at ! same "t1 fry ?ree good-siz$   
onions & ?ree gre5 pepp]s4 ,:5 ! /eak is
 cook$ suffici5tly put x to "o side ( ! 
pan & let ! oil run to ! o!r side4 ,on !
 oil p\r suffici5t wat] to cov] ! meat &
 add ! onions & pepp]s1 lett+ all simm] 
= a few m9utes4 ,s]ve on hot platt]4    
,spani% mode ( cook+ rice is savory &   
mo/ palatable1 & ,mrs4 ,vallejo's recipe
 = ?is is z foll[s3  ,spani% ,rice      
,slice toge!r ?ree good-siz$ onions &   
?ree small gre5 pepp]s4 ,fry !m 9 olive 
oil4 ,take "o-half cup ( rice & boil x  
until ne>ly done1 !n dra9 x well & add x
 to ! fry+ onions & pepp]s4 ,fry all    
toge!r until ?or\ghly br[n1 :i* w take  
"s "t4 ,season ) salt & s]ve4  ,^! ?ree 
recipes are giv5 because !y are simple &
 easily prep>$4 ,_m complex recipes c\ld
 be giv51 & "s ( ^! w appe> 9 ! "p ( !  
book devot$ to recipes1 b :5 "o consid]s
 ! simplicity ( ! recipes m5tion$1 x c  
readily be se5 t x takes little         
prep>ation to get some?+ out ( ! ord9>y4
    ,:5 ! ,gr+o ,came  ,to its pione]   

days mu* ( ,san ,francisco's ,bohemian  
_s is due4 ,:5 ! cry ( ,gold rang ar\nd 
! _w adv5tur\s w&]]s ( all l&s answ]$ ! 
call1 & dur+ ! ye> foll[+ ,m>%all's     
discov]y two ?\s& %ips sail$ into ,san  
,francisco ,bay1 _m to be ab&on$ on !   
bea* by ! gold-mad ?rong1 & x 0 9 "s (  
^! des]t$ sail+ vessels t ,san          
,francisco's re/aurant life _h its      
inception4 ,) ! imm$iately succe$+ ye>s 
! horde ( gold hunt]s 0 augm5t$ by ^? :o
 br\ght necessities & luxuries to       
ex*ange = ! yell[ metal giv5 up by !    
/reams fl[+ f ! ,"m ,lode4 ,) !m also   
came cooks to prep>e delectable di%es = 
^? :o _h pass$ ! flap-jack /age1 &      
desir$ ! good ?+s ( life to repay !m = !
 h>d%ips1 privations & de>? ( woman's   
companion%ip4 ,z ! male human 0 l>gely  
dom9ant 9 numb]s x 0 b natural t !y %\ld
 ga!r toge!r = companion%ip1 & "h began 
! ,bohemian _s t has m>k$ ! city = its  
own to ! pres5t day4  ,^! m5 7 all      
individuali/s1 & _! individualism has   
be5 transmitt$ to _! (fspr+ toge!r )    

indep5d5ce ( action4 ,h5ce comes !      
,bohemianism born ( individuality &     
indep5d5ce4  ,x 0 only natural t ! e>ly 
,san ,franciscans %\ld =ega!r :]e good  
*e] 0 to be f\nd1 & ! old ,el ,dorado   
,h\se1 at ,portsm\? ,squ>e1 0 really :at
 may be call$ ! fir/ ,bohemian re/aurant
 ( ! city4 ,s well 0 ?is place patroniz$
 & s exorbitant ! prices *>g$ t         
tw5ty-five ?\s& doll>s a mon? 0 n       
consid]$ an impossible r5tal4  ,next 9  
importance 0 ! mo/ fa%ionable re/aurant 
( e>ly days1 ! ,iron ,h\se4 ,x 0 built (
 heavy %eet iron t _h be5 br\ght ar\nd !
 ,horn 9 a sail+ vessel1 & cat]$ well1  
becom+ = sev]al ye>s ! mo/ fam$         
re/aurant ( ! city4 ,"h1 9 ,montgom]y   
/reet1 betwe5 ,jackson & ,pacific1 0 !  
r5dezv\s ( pione]s1 & "h ! ,society (   
,cali=nia ,pione]s _h its inception1    
receiv+ impressions felt to ! pres5t day
 9 ,san ,francisco & ,cali=nia hi/ory4  
,"h1 also1 0 fir/ s]v$ ,*ick5 9 ! ,%ell1
 ! di% f :i* s _m lat] re/aurants ga9$  
fame4 ,! recipe = ?is z prep>$ by !     

,iron ,h\se is /ill extant1 & we are    
indebt$ to a lady1 :o 0 a little girl :5
 t re/aurant 0 wan+1 ^: "m secur$ !     
recipe4 ,x 0 prep>$ z foll[s3  ,*ick5 9 
a ,%ell  ,into a kettle conta9+ a qu>t (
 wat] put a "y *ick51 "o slic$ onion1 a 
bay leaf1 two cloves1 a blade ( mace &  
six pepp]-corns4 ,simm] 9 ! cov]$ kettle
 = "o h\r & set aside to cool4 ,:5 cool 
remove ! meat f ! bones1 reject+ ! sk94 
,cut ! meat into small dice4 ,mix 9 a   
saucepan1 ov] a fire )\t br[n+1 a       
tablespoonful ( butt]1 a tablespoonful (
 fl\r1 !n add half a p9t ( cream4 ,/ir  
?is con/antly until x boils1 !n add a   
truffle1 two doz5 mu%rooms *opp$ f9e1 a 
da% ( :ite pepp] & !n ! dice ( *ick54   
,let ! :ole /& 9 a ba9 m>ie1 or *af+    
di%1 until q hot4 ,add ! yolks ( two    
eggs & let cook two m9utes4 ,/ir 9 half 
a glass ( %]ry & s]ve 9 cockle %ells4   
,e>ly ,italian ,impression  ,almo/      
co9cid5t ) ! op5+ ( ! ,iron ,h\se an    
,italian nam$ ,bazzuro took possession (
 "o ( ! /r&$ sail+ vessels encumb]+ !   

,bay1 & an*or$ x out 9 ! wat] at ! po9t 
:]e ,davis & ,pacific /reets n[         
int]sect4 ,he op5$ a re/aurant :i*      
imm$iately attract$ att5tion & ga9$ good
 reputation = its s]vice & its cook+4   
,lat]1 :5 ! l& 0 fill$ 91 ,bazzuro built
 a h\se at almo/ ! same spot & op5$ 8   
re/aurant !re1 cont9u+ x up to ! "t ( ! 
great fire 9 #aijf4  ,aft] ! fire "o ( !
 e>lie/ re/aurants to be e/abli%$ 9 t "p
 ( ! city 0 ,bazzuro's1 at ! same corn]1
 & x is /ill run by ! family1 :o took   
*>ge aft] ! dea? ( ! orig9al proprietor4
 ,"h "o c get ! f9e/ ,italian peasant   
meal 9 ! city1 & _m ( ! ,italian m]*ants
 & bank]s /ill g !re = _! lun*eons e    
day1 pref]r+ x to ! m pret5ti\s         
e/abli%m5ts4  ,! ,fr5* peasant /yle came
 a little lat]1 beg9n+ 9 a little d9+   
room op5$ 9 ,wa%+ton /reet1 j above     
,ke>ny1 by a ,fr5* woman ^: "n 0 a      
c>efully gu>d$ secret4 ,%e 0 kn[n f> &  
wide z ,ma ,tanta 7,my ,aunt74 ,h] cook+
 0 consid]$ ! be/ ( all 9 ! city1 & h]  
patrons sat at a long common table1 neat

 & clean to ! la/ degree4 ,peasant /yle 
( s]v+ 0 foll[$4 ,fir/ appe>$ ,ma ,tanta
 ) a great b[l ( salad :i* %e pass$     
ar\nd1 ea* patron help+ himself4 ,?is 0 
foll[$ by an imm5se ture5 ( s\p1 held   
al(t 9 ! h&s ( ,ma ,tanta1 & aga9 ea* 0 
8 own wait]4 ,fi%1 entree1 roa/1 &      
dess]t1 7 s]v$ 9 ! same mann]1 & ) !    
black c(fee ,ma ,tanta *ang$ f s]vitor  
to ho/ess & sat ) h] gue/s & discuss$ ! 
topics ( ! day on equal t]ms4  ,9       
,cali=nia /reet1 j bel[ ,dupont1 !      
,cali=nia ,h\se boa/$ a great *ef 9 !   
p]son ( ,john ,somali1 :o 9 lat] ye>s   
op5$ ! ,maison ,ri*e1 a fam\s re/aurant 
t w5t out ( exi/5ce 9 ! fire ( #aijf4   
,g\rmets soon discov]$ t ! ,cali=nia    
,h\se (f]$ some?+ unusual & x became a  
fam$ resort4 ,somali's specialties 7    
roa/ turkey1 *ateaubri& /eak & c(fee    
frappe4 ,x is said ( 8 turkeys t _!     
flavor 0 ( su* excell5ce t "o ( ! g\rm&s
 ( t day1 ,mi*ael ,reece1 w\ld always   
ord] two :5 he gave a d9n]--"o = 8 gue/s
 & "o = himself4 ,x is also said t our  

well-belov$ ,bohemian1 ,rafael ,weill1  
/ill holds memories ( ! old ,cali=nia   
,h\se1 ( :i* he 0 an habitue1 & f ^:    
excell5t *ef he le>n$ to appreciate !   
art & sci5ce ( cook+ z evid5c$ by !     
breakfa/s & d9n]s ) :i* he regales 8    
gue/s at ! pres5t day4  ,b _m ( ! h>dy  
pione]s 7 ( ,engli% & ,am]ican /ock &   
pref]r$ ! pla9] foods ( _! old homes to 
! highly season$ di%es ( ! ,lat9 *efs1 &
 to cat] to ?is gr[+ dem& ! ,nevada 0   
op5$ 9 ,p9e /reet betwe5 ,montgom]y &   
,ke>ny4 ,?is place became not$ = its    
roa/ beef & also = its corn$ beef &     
cabbage1 :i* 0 said to be ( mo/ excell5t
 flavor4  ,mo/ fam\s ( all ! old oy/]   
h\ses 0 ,mann+s1 at ! corn] ( ,p9e &    
,webb /reets4 ,he specializ$ 9 oy/]s &  
_m ( 8 di%es h surviv$ to ! pres5t day4 
,x is said t ! /yle n[ call$ ,oy/]s     
,kirkpatrick1 is b a v>iant ( ,mann+'s  
,oy/] ,salt ,roa/4  ,at ! corn] (       
,cali=nia & ,sansome /reets1 :]e n[ /&s 
! ,bank ( ,cali=nia1 0 ! ,tehama ,h\se1 
"o ( ! mo/ fam\s ( ! city's e>ly        

ho/elries1 ^: re/aurant 0 fam$ = its    
excell5ce4 ,! ,tehama ,h\se 0 ! r5dezv\s
 ( army & navy (fic]s & high /ate       
(ficials4 ,lieut5ant ,john ,d]by1 ( !   
,unit$ ,/ates ,army1 "o ( ! mo/ widely  
kn[n we/]n au?ors ( t day1 made x 8     
headqu>t]s4 ,d]by wrote "u ! names (    
,john ,pho5ix1 & ,squibob4  ,p]9i's1 9  
,po/ /reet betwe5 ,grant av5ue &        
,/ockton1 specializ$ 9 pa/es & veal     
risotto1 & 0 mu* patroniz$ by upt[n m54 
,! orig9al ,m>*& began bus9ess 9 a      
little room 9 ,dupont /reet1 betwe5     
,jackson & ,wa%+ton1 :i* di/rict at t "t
 _h n be5 giv5 ov] to ! ,*9ese1 & he    
cook$ ov] a *>coal brazi]1 9 8 w9d[1 9  
view ( pass+ p :o 7 attract$ by !       
novelty & reta9$ by ! good cook+4 ,) !  
ext5sion ( 8 fame he f\nd 8 room too    
small & he r5t$ a cottage at ,bu% &     
,dupont /reet1 b 8 bus9ess grew s       
rapidly t he 0 compell$ to move to m    
commodi\s qu>t]s at ,po/ & ,dupont &    
lat] to a mu* l>g] place at ,ge>y &     
,/ockton1 :]e he enjoy$ good patronage  

until ! fire de/roy$ 8 place4 ,!re is n[
 a re/aurant 9 ,ge>y /reet ne> ,mason   
:i* has on its w9d[s 9 v small lett]s   
,mi*ael1 =m]ly (1 & !n 9 bold lett]+1   
,m>*&s4 ,b ,mi*ael has nei!r ! art nor !
 vi&s t made ,m>*&s fam\s1 & he is      
cont5t to say t 8 mo/ fam\s di% is      
tripe--j pla91 plebeian tripe4  ,*ri/ian
 ,good1 at ,wa%+ton & ,ke>ny1 ,big      
,john1 at ,m]*ant /reet betwe5          
,montgom]y & ,sansome1 ,m>%all's ,*op   
,h\se1 9 ! old ,c5t] ,m>ket1 &          
,johnson's ,oy/] ,h\se1 9 a basem5t at  
,clay & ,leidesdorff /reets1 7 all not$ 
places & mu* patroniz$1 ! latt] lay+ !  
f\ndation ( "o ( ,san ,francisco's ,fir/
 ,families4 ,m>t9's 0 mu* patroniz$ by !
 ,old ,com/ock cr[d1 & ?is 0 ! favorite 
d9+ place ( ! late ,william ,c4 ,ral/on4
  ,"o ( ! mo/ fam\s re/aurants ( ! e>ly 
'#gjs 0 ! ,m9t1 9 ,comm]cial /reet1     
betwe5 ,montgom]y & ,ke>ny1 :]e ! pres5t
 re/aurant ( ! same "n is locat$4 ,x 0  
not$ = its ,s\!rn cook+ & 0 ! favorite  
resort ( ,w4 ,w4 ,foote & o!r prom95t   

,s\!rn]s4 ,! kit*5 0 presid$ ov] by old 
,billy ,jackson1 an old-"t ,s\!rn d>key1
 :o made a specialty ( fri$ *ick51 cream
 gravy1 & corn fritt]s4    ,bir? ( !    
,fr5* ,re/aurant  ,fr5* impression came 
/rongly ab\t ?is "t1 & ! ,poodle ,dog1 (
 ,p>is1 _h its prototype at ,bu% &      
,dupont /reets4 ,?is 0 "o ( ! e>lie/ ( !
 type kn[n z ,fr5* ,re/aurants1 & num]\s
 convivial p>ties ( m5 & wom5 f\nd its  
private rooms conv5i5t = r5dezv\s4 ,old 
,pi]re ( lat] days1 :o 0 f\nd dead out  
on ! ,colma road "s two ye>s aft] ! fire
 ( #aijf1 0 a wait] at ! ,poodle ,dog :5
 x />t$1 & by sav+ 8 tips & mak+ good   
inve/m5ts he 0 able to op5 a simil>     
re/aurant at ,/ockton & ,m>ket1 :i* he  
call$ ! ,pup4 ,! ,pup 0 fam\s = its     
frogs' legs a la p\lette4 ,9 ?is v5ture 
,pi]re _h a p>tn]1 to :om he sold out a 
few ye>s lat] & !n he op5$ ! ,tortoni 9 
,o',f>rell /reet1 :i* became "o ( ! mo/ 
fam\s ( ! pre-fire re/aurants1 its table
 d'hote d9n]s be+ consid]$ ! be/ 9 !    
city4 ,:5 ,claus ,spreckels built ! tall

 ,spreckels build+ ,pi]re & 8 p>tn] op5$
 ! ,call re/aurant 9 ! top /ories4 ,) ! 
fire bo? ( ! re/aurants w5t out (       
exi/5ce1 & ! old proprietor ( ! ,poodle 
,dog hav+ di$1 ,pi]re & a p>tn] nam$    
,pon b\ght ! place1 & = a ye> or s aft] 
! fire x 0 "o ( ! be/ ,fr5* re/aurants 9
 ! city4 ,aft] ,pi]re's untimely dea? ! 
re/aurant 0 m]g$ ) ,b]gez & ,frank's1 & 
is n[ 9 ,bu% /reet above ,ke>ny4  ,mu*  
romance atta*$ to ,pi]re1 x be+ g5]ally 
believ$ t he belong$ to a weal?y ,fr5*  
family1 because ( 8 education1 8 unfail+
 c\rtesy1 8 ready wit & 8 g5tility4     
,pi]re specializ$ 9 fi% cook$ ) w9e1 & z
 a favor to 8 patrons he w\ld g to !    
kit*5 & prep>e ! di% ) 8 own h&s4  ,9   
,o',f>rell /reet ! ,delmonico 0 "o ( !  
mo/ fam\s ( ! ,fr5* re/aurants until !  
fire4 ,x 0 sev]al /ories high1 & ea*    
/ory conta9$ private rooms4 ,c>riages   
drove directly into ! build+ f ! /reet &
 ! occupants w5t by elevator to s\ndpro(
 rooms above1 :]e !y 7 s]v$ by discreet 
wait]s4  ,! ,poodle ,dog1 ! ,pup1       

,delmonico's1 ,jacques1 ,frank's1 !     
,m9t1 ,b]gez1 ,felix & ,campi's are !   
connect+ l9ks betwe5 ! fire & ! pione]  
days4 ,"s ( !m /ill c>ry ! names &      
memories ( ! old days4 ,all 7 not$ = _! 
good d9n]s & rem>kably l[ prices4       
,%ortly aft] ! fire ,blanco1 =m]ly      
connect$ ) ! old ,poodle ,dog1 op5$ a   
place 9 ,o',f>rell /reet1 betwe5 ,hyde &
 ,l>k91 call+ x ,blanco's4 ,dur+ !      
recon/ruction p]iod ?is 0 by f> ! be/   
re/aurant 9 ! city1 & x is /ill "o ( !  
not$ places4 ,lat] ,blanco op5$ a f9e   
re/aurant 9 ,mason /reet1 betwe5 ,turk &
 ,eddy1 reviv+ ! old "n ( ! ,poodle     
,dog1 & "h all ! old traditions h be5   
reviv$4 ,bo? ( ^! savor ( ! old type (  
,fr5* re/aurants1 cat]+ to a class (    
quiet sp5d]s :o c>efully gu>d _!        
indiscretions4  ,9 ! e>ly '#ejs & '#fjs 
! mo/ not$ places 7 n consid]$          
respectable en\gh = ladies1 & at        
re/aurants l ! ,?ree ,trees1 9 ,dupont j
 above ,bu% /reet1 ladies w5t into      
little private rooms ?r\gh an alley4    

,pet] ,job saw 8 opportunity & op5$ a   
re/aurant :]e special att5tion 0 paid to
 lady patrons1 & %ortly aft] ! ,new     
,york re/aurant1 9 ,ke>ny /reet1 did !  
same4  ,m]g+ ! po/-pione]1 era ) !      
pre-fire era came ! ,maison ,doree1 :i* 
became fam\s 9 _m ways4 ,x 0 not$ =     
oy/]s a la p\lette1 prep>$ aft] ! foll[+
 recipe3  ,oy/]s a ,la ,p\lette         
,"o-half cup butt]1 ?ree tablespoons    
fl\r1 yolks ( ?ree eggs4 ,"o p9t *ick5  
/ock 7or veal71 "o tablespoonful lemon  
juice1 "o-eigh? teaspoon pepp]1 "o level
 teaspoon salt4 ,beat ! butt] & fl\r    
toge!r until smoo? & :ite4 ,!n add salt1
 pepp] & lemon juice4 ,gradually p\r    
boil+ /ock on ?is mixture & simm] = t5  
m9utes4 ,beat ! yolks ( eggs 9 a        
saucepan1 gradually p\r+ ! cook$ sauce  
^u !m4 ,p\r into a d\ble boil] conta9+  
boil+ wat] 9 l[] "p ( ut5sil4 ,/ir !    
mixture = "o & "o-half m9utes4 ,into ?is
 put two doz5 l>ge oy/]s & let cook     
until edges curl up & s]ve hot4  ,capta9
 ,cropp]1 an old ,m>yl&]1 _h a re/aurant

 t 0 mu* patroniz$ by good liv]s1 & 9   
addition to ! usual ,s\!rn di%es he     
specializ$ on t]rap9 a la ,m>yl&1 s5d+  
back to 8 native ,/ate = ! fam\s        
diamond-back t]rap94 ,8 recipe = ?is 0 z
 foll[s3  ,t]rap9 a ,la ,m>yl&  ,cut a  
t]rap9 9 small pieces1 ab\t "o in* long1
 aft] boil+ x4 ,put ! pieces 9 a saute  
pan ) two ounces ( sweet butt]1 salt1   
pepp]1 a v little cel]y salt1 a p9* (   
paprika4 ,simm] = a few m9utes & !n add 
"o glass ( %]ry w9e1 :i* r$uce to half  
by boil+4 ,!n add "o cup ( cream1 br+ to
 a boil & ?ick5 ) two yolks ( eggs mix$ 
) a half cup ( cream4 ,let x come to a  
ne> boil & add half a glass ( dry %]ry &
 s]ve4  ,y may ?ick5 ! t]rap9 ) ! foll[+
 mixture3 ,two raw yolks ( eggs1 two    
boil$ yolks ( eggs1 "o ounce ( butt]1 "o
 ounce corn />*4 ,rub toge!r & pass     
?r\gh a f9e sieve4  ,uncle ,tom's ,cab91
 ,tony ,oakes1 ! ,h]mitage1 & ,cornelius
 ,/agg's 7 not$ road-h\ses :]e f9e meals
 7 s]v$1 b ^! are sc>cely to be consid]$
 z ,san ,francisco ,bohemian re/aurants4

  ,! ,reception1 on ! corn] ( ,sutt] &  
,webb /reets1 :i* cont9u$ up to ! "t ( !
 fire1 0 not$ = its t]rap9 specialties1 
b x 0 r malodor\s & ladies :o patroniz$ 
x usually w5t 9 ?r\gh ! ,webb /reet     
entrance to keep f be+ se54 ,! old      
,baldw9 ,hotel1 :i* /ood :]e ! ,flood   
build+ n[ /&s1 at ! corn] ( ,m>ket &    
,p[ell & :i* 0 de/roy$ by fire "s f\rte5
 ye>s ago1 0 ! favorite resort ( _m ( ! 
not$ m5 ( ! ,we/1 & ! grill _h !        
di/9ction ( be+ ! be/ 9 ,san ,francisco 
at t "t4 ,! grill ( ! ,old ,palace      
,hotel 0 also ( highe/ ord]1 & ?is 0    
especially true ( ! ,ladies' ,grill :i* 
0 !n1 z n[1 not$ = its arti/ic          
prep>ation ( a wondr\s v>iety ( good    
?+s4  ,probably ! mo/ unique place ( !  
pione] & po/-pione] eras 0 ! ,cobweb    
,palace1 at ,meiggs's ,:>f1 run by que] 
old ,abe ,w>n]4 ,x 0 a little ram%ackle 
build+ ext5d+ back ?r\gh two or ?ree    
rooms fill$ ) all mann] ( old curios su*
 z comes f sail+ vessels t g to diff]5t 
p>ts ( ! _w4 ,^! curios 7 pil$          

indiscrim9ately ev]y:]e1 & !re 7 boxes &
 b>rels pil$ ) no reg>d :atev] =        
regul>ity4 ,?is het]og5e\s conglom]ation
 0 cov]$ ) ye>s ( du/ & cobwebs1 h5ce ! 
"n4 ,ar\nd & ov] ^! play$ be>s1 monkeys1
 p>rots1 cats1 & dogs1 & :atev] sort (  
bird or animal t c\ld be accommodat$    
until x _h ! appe>ance ( a small        
m5ag]ie4 ,w>n] s]v$ crab 9 v>i\s ways & 
clams4 ,9 ! re> room1 :i* 0 rea*$ by a  
devi\s pa? ?r\gh ! debris1 he _h a b>   
:]e he s]v$ ! f9e/ ( import$ liquors1   
,fr5* br&y1 ,spani% w9es1 ,engli% ale1  
all 9 ! orig9al wood4 ,he s]v$ no ord9>y
 liquor ( any sort1 say+ t if anybody   
want$ :iskey !y c\ld get x at any       
saloon4 ,he cat]$ to a class ( m5 :o    
knew good liquors1 & 8 place 0 a great  
resort = *ildr51 ( :om he 0 fond & :o   
w5t !re to see ! animals4 ,!            
frontispiece ( ?is book is f "o ( ! few 
exi/+ 7if n ! only "o7 photographs ( !  
place4  ,equally unique1 yet ( high]    
/&>d1 0 ! ,palace ( ,art1 run by !      
,hackett bro!rs1 9 ,po/ /reet ne>       

,m>ket4 ,"h 7 "s ( ! f9e/ pa9t+s & m>ble
 c>v+s to be f\nd 9 ! city1 toge!r )    
beautiful hamm]$ silv] plaques & cups4  
,curios ( all sorts 7 display$ on !     
walls1 & among !m 7 _m que] wood gr[?s  
%[+ odd %apes z well z odd color+s4 ,a  
l>ge & ornate b> ext5d$ along "o side ( 
! imm5se room & tables 7 plac$ ab\t !   
room & 9 a balcony t ran along "o side4 
,"h meals 7 s]v$ to bo? m5 & wom51 !    
latt] be+ attract$ by ! arti/ic display 
& unique "* ( ! place4 ,?is 0 de/roy$ by
 ! fire & all ! works ( art lo/4    ,at 
! ,cliff ,h\se  ,?ree times de/roy$ by  
fire1 & ?ree times rebuilt1 ! ,cliff    
,h\se /&s on a rocky promontory ov]look+
 ! ,sund[n ,sea1 :]e ,san ,francisco's  
bea* is lav$ by ! waves ( ! ,ocean4     
,s9ce ! fir/ ,cliff ,h\se 0 erect$ ?is  
has be5 a place fam\s ! _w ov] because (
 its sc5ic beauty & its ov]look+ ! ,seal
 ,rocks1 :]e congregate a l>ge h]d ( sea
 lions disport+ mu* to ! edification ( !
 visitors4 ,appeal+ f its romantic      
surr\nd+s1 int]e/+ because ( its hi/ory1

 & attractive ?r\gh its comb9ation (    
da%+ waves & beautiful bea* ext5d+ miles
 9 "o direction1 ) ! rugg$ entrance to  
,gold5 ,gate 9 ! o!r1 ) ! my/]i\s       
,f>allones 9 ! dim di/ance1 ! ,cliff    
,h\se may well be class$ z "o ( ! great 
,bohemian re/aurants ( ,san ,francisco4 
,lov]s ( ! night life "k x well = x is !
 de/9ation ( _m an automobile p>ty4     
,dur+ ! day its t]races are fill$ )     
visitors f abroad :o make ?is a "p ( _! 
it9]>y1 & "h1 z !y dr9k 9 ! wondr\s     
beauty ( ! sc5e spread be=e !m1 p>take (
 well prep>$ & well s]v$ di%es su* z    
made bo? ! ,cliff ,h\se & ,san          
,francisco well & favorably kn[n & ^:   
fame is n b\nd$ by ! cont95t4  ,b = a   
mo/ pleasant visit to ! ,cliff ,h\se "o 
%\ld *oose ! e>ly morn+ h\rs1 & g out :5
 ! air is bl[+ free & fre% f ! sea1 !   
waves cre/+ ) amb] "u ! magic t\* ( !   
ea/]ly sun4 ,select a table next to "o (
 ! we/]n w9d[s & ord] a breakfa/ t is   
s]v$ "h bett] ?an any place we h tri$4  
,?is breakfa/ w consi/ ( broil$ brea/ ( 

"y turkey1 s]v$ ) broil$ ,virg9ia ham ) 
a side di% ( corn fritt]s4 ,:5 y sit d[n
 to ?is aft] a brisk ride out ?r\gh     
,gold5 ,gate ,p>k1 y h ! great sauce1   
appetite1 & ) a pot ( /eam+ c(fee ^:    
aroma rises l ! inc5se to ! ,sea ,gods1 
y w feel t :ile y h ?\ght y _h good     
breakfa/s be=e ?is1 y "k t n[ y are hav+
 ! be/ ( !m all4 ,( c\rse !re are _m o!r
 good ?+s to ord] if y l1 b we h        
discov]$ no?+ t makes s complete a      
breakfa/ z ?is4    ,"s ,italian         
,re/aurants  ,is ev]ybody happy8 ,oh1 x 
is only n9e o'clock & we've got all     
night4 ,x 0 a cle>1 fre% "y voice1 full 
( ! joy ( liv+ & came f a "y woman ^:   
c>efree air seem$ to say ( h] exi/5ce z 
( ! night ,we've got all life be=e u4 ,!
 voice1 ! heal?ful face & vigor\s =m1 ! 
v live & joy\s expression 7 all         
significant ( ! "t & place4 ,x 0 ,sunday
 night & ! place 0 ,/eve ,sangu9etti's1 
) roi/]]s 9 full sw+ & e table fill$ &  
doz5s ( patrons wait+ along ! walls     
ready to take ea* seat z x 0 empti$4 ,"h

 7 "y m5 & wom5 j return$ f _! v>i\s    
picnics across ! ,bay to _! "o great    
ev5t ( ! week--a ,sunday d9n] at        
,sangu9etti's4  ,ov] 9 "o corn] ( !     
/ifl+ room1 on a rais$ plat=m1 sat two  
oily & fat negroes1 mak+ ! place hide\s 
) _! ribald songs & ! twang+ ( a guit> &
 banjo4 ,:51 a famili> air 0 s\nd$ !    
entire ga!r+ jo9$ 9 *orus1 & :5 su*     
tunes z ,!re'll ,be a ,hot ,"t 9 ! ,old 
,t[n ,tonight came1 ! place 0 p&emonium4
 ,yet ?r\gh x all p]fect ord] 0 kept by 
! fat proprietor1 8 muscul> b\nc] & two 
policem5 /ation$ at ! doors4 ,noise 0 r 
invit$ ?an fr[n$ ^u1 & ! only l9e drawn 
reg>d+ conduct 0 ! ?r[+ ( bread4        
,probably ,/eve did n want x wa/$4  ,x 0
 all free & easy & nobody took (f5se at 
any?+ said or done4 ,9 fact if "o 7     
squeami% ab\t su* ?+s ,sangu9etti's 0 no
 place = him or h]4 ,"o f\nd "o's self  
talk+ & laugh+ ) ! p ab\t z if !y 7 old 
fri5ds4 ,x made no diff]5ce h[ y 7      
dress$1 nor h[ dignifi$ y tri$ to be1 x 
0 all "o ) ! cr[d ar\nd ! tables4 ,if y 

wi%$ to /ay !re 9 com=t y _h to be "o ( 
!m1 & dignity _h to be left outside or x
 w\ld make y s uncom=table t y w\ld c>ry
 x out1 to an accompanim5t ( laught] &  
je]s ( ! re/ ( ! d9]s4  ,s f> z eat+ 0  
conc]n$ t 0 n "o ( ! consid]ations :5   
discuss+ ,sangu9etti's4 ,x 0 a table    
d'hote d9n] s]v$ ) a bottle ( ,dago r$1 
= fifty c5ts4 ,y gave ! wait] a tip (   
fifte5 c5ts or two bits z y felt lib]al1
 & he 0 satisfi$4 ,if y 7 especially    
pleas$ y gave ! d>keys t5 c5ts1 n       
because y enjoy$ ! music1 b j because4  
,! "o m]it ( ,sangu9etti's be=e ! fire 0
 ! fact t all ! regul> cu/om]s 7        
unaffect$ & natural4 ,!y came f !       
factories1 cann]ies1 %ops1 & drays1 &   
aft] a week ( he>t-break+ "w ?is 0 _! "o
 relaxation & !y enjoy$ x to ! full4 ,_m
 p f ! resid5tial "p ( ! city1 & _m     
visitors at ! hotels1 w5t !re z a "p (  
slumm+ trips1 b ! real s5tim5t 0        
express$ by ! "y girl :5 %e sang out ,is
 ev]ybody happy8  ,sangu9etti /ill has 8
 re/aurant1 & !re is /ill to be f\nd !  

p]spir+ d>keys1 play+ & s++ _!          
impossible music1 & a cr[d /ill         
congregates !re1 b x is n ! old cr[d =  
?is1 l all ?+s else 9 ,san ,francisco1  
has *ang$1 & in/ead ( ! old-"t          
assemblage ( "y m5 & wom5 ^: lack (     
conv5tion came f _! natural environm5t1 
!re is n[ a cr[d ( "y & old p :o        
patronize x because !y h he>d x is s    
,bohemian4  ,?rifty hotel guides take   
t\ri/s !re & tell !m x is ! only real   
,bohemian re/aurant 9 ,san ,francisco1 &
 :5 ! outl&]s see ! antics ( ! p & li/5 
to ! ribald je/s & bad music ( ! d>keys1
 !y g back to _! hotels & tell ) bat$   
brea? ( "o ( ! mo/ wond]ful ?+s !y h ev]
 se51 & x is "o ( ! wond]ful ?+s ( _!   
limit$ exp]i5ce4  ,among ! pre-fire     
re/aurants ( note 7 sev]al ,italian     
places :i* appeal$ to ! ,bohemian _s    
?r\gh _! good cook+ & abs5ce (          
conv5tionality1 toge!r ) ! inexp5siv5ess
 ( ! d9n]s4 ,among ^! 7 ! ,buon ,gu/o1 !
 ,fior d',italia1 ,la ,e/rella1 ,campi's
 & ! ,gi&uja4 ,( ^! ,campi's1 9 ,clay   

/reet bel[ ,sansome1 0 ! mo/ not$1 & !  
primitive /yle ( s]v+ comb9$ ) 8        
excell5t cook+ br\ght him fame4 ,all (  
^! places1 or at lea/ re/aurants ) ^!   
names1 are /ill 9 exi/5ce4  ,jule's1 !  
,fly ,trap1 ! ,/4 ,g]ma9 & ! ,cosmos    
laid claim to di/9ction ?r\gh _!        
inexp5siv5ess1 up to ! "t ( ! fire4 ,all
 ( ^! names are /ill to be se5 ov]      
re/aurants & !y are /ill 9 t class1     
,jule's1 possibly1 be+ bett] ?an x 0    
be=e ! fire4 ,a good d9n] ( sev5 or     
eight c\rses1 well cook$ & well s]v$1   
c\ld be _h 9 ^! places = fifty c5ts4    
,lomb>di's 0 ( ! same type b 8 price 0 b
 tw5ty-five c5ts = a c\rse d9n] 9 _m    
respects ! equal ( ! o!rs4  ,pop ,floyd1
 rec5tly kill$ by 8 b>t5d] 9 an         
alt]cation1 _h a place d[n 9 ,cali=nia  
/reet mu* patroniz$ by bus9ess m54 ,he  
_h v good s]vice & ! be/ ( cook+1 & = _m
 ye>s hundr$s ( bus9ess m5 ga!r$ !re at 
lun*eon 9 lieu ( a club4 ,! place is    
/ill 9 exi/5ce & good s]vice & good food
 is to be _h !re1 b x has lo/ its       

,bohemian atmosph]e4  ,9 ,p9e /reet     
above ,montgom]y 0 ! ,viticultural1 a   
re/aurant t _h great vogue ow+ to !     
excell5ce ( its cook+4 ,its specialty 0 
m>r[ on toa/ & broil$ mu%rooms1 & game4 
,to speak ( ,bohemian ,san ,francisco & 
say no?+ ( ! old ,h(fman saloon1 on     
,second & ,m>ket /reets1 w\ld be l !    
play ( ,hamlet ) ,hamlet left out4 ,pop 
,sullivan1 or ,billy ,sullivan1 accord+ 
to ! degree ( famili>ity ( !            
acqua9tance1 boa/$ ( ! fact t f ! day   
?is place op5$ until he sold ! doors 7  
clos$ b once1 ! keys hav+ be5 ?r[n away 
on op5+ day4 ,dur+ all ! ye>s ( its     
exi/5ce ! only day x 0 clos$ 0 ! day ( !
 fun]al ( ,sullivan's "m4 ,"h 0 ! mo/   
magnific5t b> 9 ,san ,francisco1 & 9    
connection 0 a re/aurant t cat]$ to p :o
 n only knew good ?+s b ord]$ !m4 ,!    
back "p ( ! place ) entrance on ,second 
/reet 0 divid$ (f into little rooms )   
tables l>ge en\gh = f\r4 ,^! rooms 7 mo/
 lavi% 9 _! decoration1 ! mo/ int]e/+   
feature be+ t !y 7 all made ( diff]5t   

beautiful woods1 highly poli%$4 ,woods 7
 "h f all p>ts ( ! _w1 ea* be+          
di/9ctive4 ,9 ^! rooms gue/s 7 s]v$ ) ! 
be/ ! m>ket af=d$1 by discreet d>keys4  
,?is place 0 ! be/ patroniz$ ( all !    
,bohemian resorts ( ! city up to ! "t ( 
! fire4 ,"o ( ! special da9ties s]v$ 7 !
 ,h(fman ,h\se biscuits1 light & flaky1 
su* z c\ld be f\nd n[h]e else4  ,out by 
,m>%all ,squ>e1 by ! ,city ,hall1 0     
,good ,fell['s ,grotto1 />t$ by ,te*au1 
:o aft]w>d built & ran ! ,te*au ,tav]n4 
,?is place 0 9 a basem5t & _h mu* vogue 
among politicians & ^? connect$ ) ! city
 gov]nm5t4 ,x specializ$ on beef/eaks4  
,"u ! ,/4 ,ann build+1 at ,eddy & ,p[ell
 /reets1 0 ! ,l\vre1 />t$ & manag$ by   
,c>l ,z9k&1 :o aft]w>d op5$ ! place 9   
,m>ket above ,f\r? /reet1 call$ ,z9k&'s4
 ,?is 0 di/9ctly ,g]man 9 appo9tm5ts &  
cook+ & 0 ! be/ ( its k9d 9 ! city4 ,"u 
! ,phelan build+ at ,o',f>rell & ,m>ket 
0 ! ,old ,l\vre 9 :i* place "o c\ld get 
,g]man cook+1 b x 0 n a place t appeal$ 
to ^? :o knew good s]vice4  ,bab's _h a 

meteoric c>e] & 0 wor?y ( mu* long]     
life1 b ,babcock _h too high an         
idealization ( :at ,san ,francisco      
want$4 ,he emulat$ ! ,p>isian re/aurants
 9 oddities1 "o ( 8 rooms be+ patt]n$   
aft] ! fam\s ,cab>et de la ,mort1 & "o  
d9$ (f a c(f9 & 0 light$ by gre5 color$ 
tap]s affix$ to skulls4 ,aside f its    
oddities x 0 "o ( ! be/ places = a good 
meal = ,bab _h ! art ( cat]+ d[n to a   
nicety4 ,!re 7 rooms decorat$ to        
repres5t v>i\s c\ntries & 9 ea* room y  
c\ld get a d9n] ( ! c\ntry repres5t$4   
,?ompson's 0 ano!r place t 0 too        
elaborate = its patronage & aft] a v>i$ 
exi/5ce f ! old ,oy/] ,loaf to a        
cafet]ia ,?ompson 0 compell$ to leave = 
o!r fields & ,san ,francisco lo/ a      
spl5did re/aurateur4 ,he op5$ ! place "u
 ! ,flood build+1 aft] ! fire1 9 mo/    
magnific5t /yle1 tak+ 9 two p>tn]s4 ,!  
enorm\s exp5se & necess>y debt contract$
 to op5 ! place 0 too mu* & ,?ompson _h 
to give up 8 int]e/4 ,?is place is n[   
runn+ z ! ,portola-,l\vre4  ,mu* c\ld be

 writt5 ( ^! old-"t re/aurants1 & z we  
write /ory aft] /ory amus+1 int]e/+1 &  
in/ructive come to m9d1 ea* indicative (
 ! p]iod :5 true ,bohemianism 0 to be   
f\nd 9 ! ,city t ,04  ,an incid5t t     
occurr$ 9 ! old ,fior d',italia well    
illu/rates ?is _s ( cam>ad]ie1 z x %[s !
 good-fell[%ip t !n obta9$4 ,we w5t to t
 re/aurant = d9n] "o ev5+1 & !          
proprietor1 kn[+ our int]e/ 9 human     
nature /udies1 %[$ u to a little table 9
 ! back "p ( ! room1 :]e we c\ld h a    
good view ( all ! tables4 ,our table 0  
l>ge en\gh to seat f\r com=tably1 &     
pres5tly1 z ! room became cr[d$1 !      
proprietor1 ) _m excuses1 ask$ if he    
c\ld seat two g5tlem5 ) u4 ,!y 7 upp]   
class ,italians1 exce$+ly polite1 &     
apologiz$ pr(usely = intrud+ ^u u4 ,9 a 
few m9utes ano!r g5tleman ent]$ & our   
companions at once began frantic        
ge/iculations & call$ him to our table1 
:]e room 0 made & ano!r cov] laid4 ,aga9
 & aga9 ?is occurr$ until f9ally at a   
table suit$ = f\r1 n9e ( u 7 eat+1      

laugh+1 & talk+ toge!r1 we be+ tak5 into
 ! comrade%ip )\t "q4 ,:5 x came "t = u 
to dep>t ! entire sev5 rose & /ood1 b[+ 
z we pass$ f ! re/aurant4    ,impress ( 
,mexico  ,runn+ ?r\gh all ! fabric (    
,san ,francisco's hi/ory is ! ?read (   
,mexican & ,spani% romance & tradition1 
c>ry+ u back to ! v days :5 ! troop] s5t
 out by ,portola fir/ set eyes on !     
great inl& sea n[ kn[n z ,san ,francisco
 ,bay4 ,x w\ld seem t ! cuis9aire mo/   
indelibly /amp$ on ! ta/e ( ! old ,san  
,franciscan w\ld1 !re=e1 be ( ei!r      
,spani% or ,mexican orig94 ,t ?is is n a
 fact is because among ! e>lie/ corn]s  
to ,cali=nia aft] x pass$ f ,mexican h&s
 to ^? ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 7 ,fr5* &     
,italian cooks1 & ! bon vivants ( bo?   
l&s :o want$ _! own /yle ( cook+4 ,:ile 
! ,spani% did n impress _! cook+ on ,san
 ,francisco1 x is ! cuis9e ( ! ,lat9    
races t has giv5 to x its greate/       
ga/ronomic pre/ige1 & !re /ill rema9s f 
^? v e>ly days recipes ( ! fam\s di%es  
:i* _h _! beg9n+s ei!r 9 ,spa9 or       

,mexico4  ,!re is mu* misconception     
reg>d+ bo? ,spani% & ,mexican cook+1 = x
 is g5]ally accept$ z a fact t all      
,mexican & ,spani% di%es are s fill$ )  
r$ pepp] z to be unpalatable to ! normal
 /oma* ( ^? tra9$ to :at is call$ pla9  
,am]ican cook+4 ,c]ta9 di%es ( ,mexican 
& ,spani% orig9 owe _! f9e flavor to    
discrim9at+ use ( *ili cali5te or *ili  
dulce1 b _m ( ! be/ di%es are entirely  
innoc5t ( ei!r4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5      
,spani% & ,mexican cook+ is l>gely a    
matt] ( s5tim5t4 ,x is a peculi>ity ( ! 
,spani>d t he does n wi% to be class$ z 
a ,mexican1 & on ! o!r h& ! ,mexican is 
angry if he be call$ a ,spani>d4 ,b !   
fact rema9s t _! cook+ is mu* alike1 s  
mu* s1 9 fact1 z to be indi/+ui%able    
except by diff]5t names = simil> di%es1 
& frequ5tly ^! are ! same4  ,! two fam\s
 & _w-kn[n di%es ( ?is class ( cook+ are
 tortillas & tamales4 ,x is g5]ally     
suppos$ t bo? ( ^! are ! product (      
,mexico1 b ?is is n ! case4 ,! tamale _h
 its orig9 9 ,spa9 & 0 c>ri$ to ,mexico 

by ! conqui/adors1 & tak5 up z a        
national di% by ! natives aft] _m ye>s4 
,! tortilla1 on ! o!r h&1 is made n[    
exactly z x 0 made by ! ,mexican ,indian
 :5 ! ,spani% f\nd ! c\ntry4 ,! aborig9e
 prep>$ 8 corn on a /one metate & made x
 into cakes by patt+ x ) ! h&1 !n cook$ 
x on a hot /one be=e an op5 fire4 ,x is 
/ill made 9 t mann] 9 ! he>t ( ,mexico1 
& we c\ld tell a /ory ( h[ we saw ?is   
done "o night 9 ! mid/ ( a d5se tropical
 =e/1 :ile mulete]s & mozas ( a great   
c>avan sat ar\nd _! little campfires1 ^:
 fitful light s]v$ to int5sify ! weird  
appe>ance ( ! %ad[s ( ! ,indians z !y   
pass$ to & fro among _! packs1 b ?is is 
n ! place = su* /ories4  ,( ! old       
,mexican re/aurants1 ^? ( u :o c look   
back to ! days ( a qu>t] ( a c5tury ago 
rememb] old ,felipe & ,m>ia1 ! ,mexican 
c\ple :o kept ! little place 9 ! alley  
back ( ! old c\nty jail1 (f ,broadway4  
,"h "o _h to dep5d entirely ^u s5tim5t1 
or r s5tim5tality1 to be pleas$4 ,!     
cook+ 0 truly ,mexican = x includ$ !    

usual ,mexican disreg>d = dirt4 ,*att]+ 
monkeys & p>rots 7 hang+ ar\nd ! kit*51 
pe]+ into pots & f+]+ vi&s1 & !y s]v$ to
 attract att5tion f myriads ( cockroa*es
 t sw>m$ ab\t ! walls4 ,"o c\ld g to ?is
 place j on ! !ory t "o is will+ to try 
any?+ once1 b aside f its picturesque   
old c\ple1 & its ,dantesque appe>ance1 x
 (f]$ no?+ to induce a return unless x 0
 to ent]ta9 a fri5d4  ,ev]yone :o liv$ 9
 ,san ,francisco be=e ! fire rememb]s   
,ric>do1 he ( ! "o eye1 :o s]v$ s well  
at ,luna's1 on ,vallejo & ,dupont       
/reets4 ,ric>do _h b "o eye b he c\ld   
see ! wants ( 8 patrons mu* bett] ?an _m
 ( ! lat] day wait]s :o h two4 ,luna's  
br\ght fame to ,san ,francisco & 9 m ?an
 "o novel ( ,san ,francisco life x 0    
featur$4 ,ent]+ ! place "o came into !  
home life ( ! ,luna family1 & rea*$ !   
d9+ room ?r\gh ! p>lor1 :]e ,mrs4 ,luna1
 busy ) h] drawn "w1 & all ! little     
,lunas & ! neighbors & _! *ildr5 =ega!r$
 9 ! w9d[ spaces beh9d ! torn ,nott+ham 
curta9s :i* p>tially conceal$ ! int]ior 

f pass]s on ! /reet4 ,! eld] sons &     
daught]s att5d$ to ! wants ( ^? :o      
fanci$ any ( ! curios display$ 9 ! long 
%[case t ext5d$ f ! door to ! re> ( !   
room4  ,pass+ ?r\gh ?is family gr\p "o  
came to ! curta9$ d9+ room prop]1 al?\gh
 !re 7 a numb] ( tables 9 ! family p>lor
 to be us$ 9 case ( a ru% ( patrons4    
,luna's d9n]s 7 a feature ( ! old ,san  
,francisco4 ,!y 7 /rictly ,mexican1 f ! 
unpalatable s\p 7,mexicans d n und]/& h[
 to make good s\p7 to ! dulce s]v$ at ! 
close ( ! meal4 ,fir/ came ! appetiz]s 9
 =m ( ?9 slices ( salami & ( a peculi>  
,mexican sausage1 s extremely hot ) *ili
 pep9o z to imm$iately call = a dr9k (  
cl>et to assuage ! burn+4 ,!n came ! s\p
 :i* we exp]i5c$ ones always pass$ ov]4 
,! salad ( mod]n tables 0 replac$ by an 
en*ilada1 & !n came ei!r *ili con c>ne  
or *ili con polle accord+ to ! day ( !  
week1 ,sundays hav+ z ! extra attraction
 ! *ili con pollo1 or *ick5 ) pepp]4 ,9 
place ( bread !y s]v$ tortillas1 :i* 7  
roll$ & us$ z a spoon or =k if "o 7 s   

incl9$4 ,foll[+ ?is 0 :at is kn[n among 
un5light5$ z /uff$ pepp]1 b :i* is call$
 by ! ,spani%1 f :i* c\ntry x gets its  
"n1 *ili re9as4 ,to signify ! close ( ! 
meal came frijoles fritas or fri$ beans1
 & ^! 7 foll[$ by ! dess]t consi/+ ( "s 
pres]v$ fruit or ( a sweet tamale4      
,fifty c5ts paid ! bill & a tip ( fifte5
 c5ts to ,ric>do made him z happy & z   
pr(use ) 8 ?anks z ! pres5t day wait] on
 receipt ( half a doll>4  ,accept+      
,luna's z ! be/ type ( ! ,mexican       
re/aurant ( ! days be=e ! fire1 our     
inquiry develop$ ! fact t ! di% on :i*  
he specializ$ 0 *ili re9as1 & ?is is !  
recipe he us$ 9 _! prep>ation3  ,*ili   
,re9as  ,roa/ l>ge bell pepp]s until !  
sk9 turns black4 ,wa% 9 cold wat] & rub 
(f ! black5$ sk94 ,cut ar\nd ! /em &    
remove ! se$ & co>se ve9s4 ,take "s dry 
,mont]ey *eese1 grat$ f9e1 & ) ?is fill 
! pepp]s1 clos+ ! end ) a wood5         
too?pick4  ,prep>e a batt] made z       
foll[s3 ,beat ! yolks & :ites ( six eggs
 sep>ately1 !n mix1 & /ir 9 a little    

fl\r to make a ?9 batt]4 ,h a pan (     
boil+ l>d ready & aft] dipp+ ! /uff$    
pepp] into ! batt] dip x into ! l>d4    
,remove quickly & dip aga9 9 ! batt] &  
!n aga9 9 ! l>d :]e x is to rema9 until 
fri$ a light1 gold5 br[n1 keep+ ! pepp]s
 entirely cov]$ ) ! boil+ l>d4  ,take ! 
se$s ( ! pepp]s1 "o small :ite onion &  
two tomatoes1 & gr9d all toge!r into a  
pulp1 add a little salt & let cook t5   
m9utes4 ,:5 ! *ilies are fri$ turn !    
rema9d] ( ! batt] into ! tomatoes & boil
 tw5ty m9utes1 !n turn ?is sauce ov] !  
pepp]s4  ,?is is a mo/ delici\s di% & c 
be v>i$ by us+ f9ely gr\nd meat to /uff 
! pepp]s in/ead ( ,! *eese4  ,mexican   
re/aurants ( ! pres5t day 9 ,san        
,francisco are a delusion1 &            
unsatisfactory4    ,on ! ,b>b>y ,coa/   
,mu* has be5 said & m pr9t$ reg>d+ ,san 
,francisco's ,b>b>y ,coa/--mu* ( tru? & 
mu* my?ical4 ,probably no o!r individual
 di/rict has be5 s in/rum5tal 9 giv+ to 
p ( o!r p>ts ( ! c\ntry an errone\s idea
 ( ,san ,francisco4 ,x is g5]ally       

accept$ z a fact t 9 ,b>b>y ,coa/ ,vice 
flaunt$ itself 9 reckless ab&on be=e !  
eyes ( ! _w1 %[+ ^? ?+s usually conceal$
 beh9d walls & "u cov] ( ! d>kness4     
,accord+ to ! puri/s "h y\? ( bo? sexes 
0 debau*$1 los+ bo? money & s\ls4 ,to   
speak ( see+ ,b>b>y ,coa/ br\ght furtive
 looks & l[]$ voices1 z if contam9ation 
ev5 f ! ?\ght 7 possible4 ,no slumm+    
p>ty 0 complet$ )\t a visit to ! ,coa/1 
aft] ,*9at[n's manufactur$ horrors _h   
be5 %udd]$ at4  ,"o _c well speak ( !   
,b>b>y ,coa/ )\t br++ into consid]ation 
! ,social ,evil1 = "h 0 conc5trat$ doz5s
 ( ! poor un=tunates ( ! und]world1     
compell$ to eke out mis]able exi/5ce    
?r\gh play+ on ! foibles & vanities (   
m51 or seek oblivion 9 a suicide's      
grave4 ,we d n propose to discuss ?is   
phase ( ,b>b>y ,coa/ z t is n a "p (    
,bohemianism4  ,we h visit$ ! ,coa/ _m  
times1 at all h\rs ( ! night1 & beyond !
 unconceal$ lic5se ( op5 c>esses we h   
se5 no?+ %ock+ to our moral s5se t      
equal$ :at we h se5 9 ,broadway1 ,new   

,york1 or 9 "s ( ! mo/ fa%ionable hotels
 & re/aurants ( ,san ,francisco on ,new 
,ye>'s ,eve4 ,danc+1 s++ & music--all t 
is embodi$ 9 ! w9e1 wom5 & song ( !     
poets1 0 to be f\nd !re1 b x 0 op51 & _h
 none ( ! veil$ sugge/ion to be f\nd 9  
places consid]$ among ! be/4  ,9 ,b>b>y 
,coa/ we h se5 m beautiful danc+ ?an on 
any /age1 or 9 ! fam\s ,m\l9 ,r\ge1 or  
,j>d9 ,mabile ( ,p>is4 ,9 fact1 _m ( !  
mod]n dances t h become ! vogue all ov] 
! c\ntry1 ev5 be+ c>ri$ to ,europe1 _h  
_! orig9 9 ,pacific /reet dance halls4  
,texas ,tommy1 ! ,grizzly ,be>1 & _m    
o!rs 7 fir/ danc$ "h1 & "s ( ! f9e/     
,texas ,tommy danc]s on ea/]n /ages w5t 
f ! dance halls ( ,san ,francisco's     
,b>b>y ,coa/4  ,vice 0 !re--yes4 ,x 0   
op5--yes4 ,b !re 0 ! attraction ( light 
& life & laught] t drew cr[ds nightly4  
,b>b>y ,coa/ 0 a "p ( ,san ,francisco's 
,bohemianism because ( its              
unconv5tionality1 =1 y "k1 !re is       
conv5tionality ev5 9 ,vice4 ,"h 0 !     
r5dezv\s ( sailor m5 f all p>ts ( ! _w1 

= "h !y f\nd companion%ip & joviality4  
,up to ! "t ( ! clos+ ( ,b>b>y ,coa/    
mole/ation ( wom5 on ! /reets ( ,san    
,francisco 0 almo/ unhe>d (4 ,s9ce its  
clos+ x is becom+ m & m haz>d\s = wom5  
to walk alone at night 9 ! only l>ge    
city 9 ! _w t always _h ! reputation (  
gu>d+ its womank9d4    ,! ,city ,t ,0   
,passes  ,times *ange & we *ange ) !m is
 well evid5c$ by ! re/aurant life ( !   
pres5t day ,san ,francisco4 ,n[1 z be=e 
! fire1 we h ! greate/ re/aurant city ( 
! _w--a city :]e home life is subord9at$
 to ! conv5i5ce ( ap>tm5t dwell+ &      
re/aurant meals-b ! old-"t ,bohemian    
f9ds nei!r ! same atmosph]e nor ! same  
re/aurants4  ,true1 _m ( ! old names h  
be5 reta9$ or reviv$1 b !re is n felt ! 
old _s ( cam>ad]ie4 ,old p]sonalities h 
pass$ away & old cu/oms h deg5]at$4 ,^? 
:o await ,! ,call feel t ) ! pass+ ( !  
old city !re pass$ mu* t made life wor? 
liv+1 & z !y prep>e to cross to ! ,great
 ,beyond1 !y live 9 _! memories ( !     
,pa/4  ,) rev]5ce we ?9k ( ! m5 & wom5 (

 ! e>ly ,san ,francisco--^? :o made !   
city ! ,home ( ,bohemia--& x is ) ?is   
feel+ t we n[ come to discuss !         
,bohemian re/aurants ( ! ,new ,san      
,francisco4    ,sang ! ,swan ,song  ,9 !
 latt] "p ( ,april1 #aijf1 :5 !         
fire-swept /reets pres5t$ _! mo/ =bidd+ 
aspect1 & :5 ! only mov+ figures to be  
se5 aft] nightfall 7 arm$ soldi]s gu>d+ 
! little rema9+ ( value f depr$ations ( 
skulk+ vagabonds1 a numb] ( ! old       
,bohemian spirits ga!r$ at ! corn] (    
,montgom]y & ,comm]cial /reets1 & gaz$  
?r\gh ! %att]$ w9d[s into ! old d9+ room
 :]e !y _h held _m a royal fea/4 ,on !  
black5$ walls might /ill be se5 sc>r$   
pictures1 fr+$ by a r[ ( black cats     
along ! ceil+4 ,!y turn$ _! /eps out    
t[>d ! ,presidio1 hunt$ among ! ,italian
 refugees & !re f\nd ,coppa--he ( !     
wond]ful black cats1 & x took little    
p]suasion to induce him to g back to 8  
ru9$ re/aurant & prep>e a d9n]1 su* z _h
 made 8 place fam\s among arti/s1       
writ]s1 & o!r ,bohemians1 9 ! days :5   

,san ,francisco 0 c>e-free & held h]    
arms wide op5 9 welcome to all ! _w4  ,x
 0 su* a d9n] z has be5 accord$ to few4 
,few !re are :o h ! he>t to make m]ry   
amid crumbl+ ru9s ( all !y held de> 9 ! 
mat]ial _w4 ,! favor$ ones :o assembl$  
!re w always hold t d9n] 9 mo/          
affectionate memory1 & to ?is day n "o  
?9ks ( x )\t ! *ok+ t comes f ov]-full  
emotion4 ,x 0 m ?an a tribute to ! days 
( old--x m>k$ ! pass+ ( ! old ,san      
,francisco & ! inauguration ( ! new4  ,x
 0 ,bohemia's ,swan ,song1 sung by ^? to
 :om ,san ,francisco held m ?an         
pleasure--m ?an s5tim5tality4 ,x held = 
!m close-knit ties t no?+ less ?an a    
world%ak+ cataclysm c\ld sev]--& !      
cataclysm _h arriv$4  ,! old ,coppa     
re/aurant 9 ,montgom]y /reet became a   
memory & on its a%es came ! new "o1     
locat$ 9 ,p9e /reet betwe5 ,montgom]y & 
,ke>ny /reets1 & = a numb] ( ye>s ?is   
rema9$ ! idol ( ,bohemia until *ang$    
conditions drove ! tide ( patronage f>  
up t[>d ,p[ell1 ,ellis1 ,eddy &         

,o',f>rell /reets4 ,at t "t !re grew up 
a mu%room crop ( s-call$ re/aurants 9   
,columbus av5ue close to ,b>b>y ,coa/   
su* z ,caes>'s1 ! ,follies ,cab>et1     
,jupit] & ,el ,p>adiso1 :]e space 0     
res]v$ 9 ! middle ( ! floor = danc+4    
,coppa emulat$ ! new idea by fitt+ out a
 gorge\s basem5t room at ! corn] (      
,ke>ny & ,jackson1 :i* he call$ !       
,neptune ,palace4 ,x repres5t$ a great  
grotto "u ! ocean1 & "h ?rongs ga!r$    
nightly to dance & eat until ! police   
commission]s clos$ all ( ^! resorts1 z  
well z ,b>b>y ,coa/4  ,coppa became     
f9ancially injur$ by ?is v5ture & 0 =c$ 
to take a p>tn] 9 8 old re/aurant1 &    
f9ally gave up 8 %>e & w5t beyond ! city
 limits & op5$ ! ,pompeiian ,g>d51 on ! 
,san ,mateo road1 & !re ) 8 h]oic little
 wife tri$ to rebuild 8 %runk5 =tunes1  
leav+ ! hi/oric re/aurant ) its /r+ (   
black cats & its memorable pictures on !
 walls to less skill$ h&s4 ,he /ruggl$  
aga9/ h>d times & at ! "t ( ?is writ+   
he1 ) 8 wife1 _! son & 8 wife1 are giv+ 

! old-"t d9n]s & try+ to make ! v5ture a
 success4  ,9 ! old days x 0 consid]$ a 
feat ( gorm&iz+ to g ?r\gh "o ( ,coppa's
 d9n]s & eat ev]y?+ set be=e y = "o     
doll>4 ,not)/&+ ! delici\s di%es he     
prep>$ & ! wond]ful recipes1 ! quantity 
s]v$ 0 s great t "o w\ld h to be        
possess$ ( enorm\s capacity1 inde$1 to  
be able to say at ! end ( ! meal t he _h
 eat5 all t 0 giv5 him4  ,9 8 ,pompeiian
 ,g>d5 ,coppa /ill ma9ta9s 8 old        
reputation = mo/ ta/y vi&s & lib]al     
portions1 & if "o desire to f9d ! true  
,bohemian re/aurant ( ,san ,francisco   
today1 "o t approa*es ! old _s ( ! days 
be=e ! fire1 he ne$ b g out to ,coppa's 
& :ile he w n h 8 eyes regal$ by ! qua9t
 draw+s ) :i* ! old-"t arti/s decorat$ !
 walls1 nor ! hurry+ foot/eps along !   
ceil+ to ! fam\s c5t] table :]e sat "s (
 ! _w's mo/ notable ,bohemians on _!    
visits to ,san ,francisco1 nor ! frieze 
( black cats ar\nd ! cornice1 nor !     
,bohemian v]se1 writt5 "u inspiration ( 
,dago r$1 he w f9d ! same old cook+1    

done by ,coppa himself4  ,we ask$ ,coppa
 :at he consid]$ 8 be/ di% & he gave u !
 ,iri%man's reply by ask+ ano!r "q3     
,:at d y ?9k ( x8  ,!re are s _m to     
*oose f t our answ] 0 difficult b we    
f9ally /opp$ at ,*ick5 ,portola4 ,x 0 !n
 t ! old smile came back to ,coppa's    
face4  ,ah6 ,*ick5 ,portola4 ,t is my   
own idea4 ,x is ! mo/ delici\s way *ick5
 0 ev] cook$4  ,?is is ! recipe z ,coppa
 gave x to u1 8 little wife /&+ at 8    
side & giv+1 n[ & !n1 a sugge/ion z     
,coppa's memory halt$3   ,*ick5 ,portola
 a la ,coppa  ,take a fre% cocoanut &   
cut (f ! top1 remov+ ne>ly all ( ! meat4
 ,put toge!r ?ree tablespoonfuls ( *opp$
 cocoanut meat & two e>s ( fre%1 gre5   
corn1 tak5 f ! cob4 ,slice two onions   
into f\r tablespoonfuls ( olive oil1    
toge!r ) a tablespoonful ( dic$ bacon   
fri$ 9 olive oil1 add "o *opp$ gre5     
pepp]1 half a doz5 tomatoes /ew$ ) salt 
& pepp]1 "o clove ( g>lic1 & cook all   
toge!r until x ?ick5s4 ,/ra9 ?is into ! 
corn & cocoanut & add "o spr+ *ick5 cut 

9 f\r pieces4 ,put ! mixture into ! %ell
 ( ! cocoanut1 us+ ! cut-(f top z a     
cov]1 & close tightly ) a cov]+ ( pa/e  
ar\nd ! jo9ture to keep 9 ! flavors4    
,put ! cocoanut into a pan ) wat] 9 x & 
set 9 ! ov51 well heat$1 = "o h\r1 ba/+ 
frequ5tly to prev5t ! cocoanut's burn+4 
,a b>e recital ( ! t]ms ( ! recipe _c   
br+ to ! un9itiat$ ev5 a suspicion ( !  
delightful aroma t comes f ! cocoanut :5
 its top is lift$1 nor c x give !       
slighte/ idea ( ! delicacy ( ! savor    
aris+ f ! comb9ation ( ! cocoanut ) "y  
*ick54 ,x is n a difficult di% to       
prep>e1 & if y _c get x at any ( !      
re/aurants1 & we are sure y _c1 try x at
 home "s "t & surprise y\r fri5ds ) a   
di% to be f\nd 9 only "o re/aurant 9 !  
_w4 ,if y desire x at ,coppa's on y\r   
visit to ,san ,francisco y w h to       
telephone out to him 9 advance 7unless  
he has succe$$ 9 gett+ back to ! city1  
:i* he contemplates7 s t he c prep>e x =
 y1 &1 take our ^w = x1 y w nev] regret 
do+ s4  ,coppa has _m wond]ful di%es to 

s]ve1 & he delights s mu* 9 y\r         
appreciation t he is always fe>ful      
some?+ is wrong if y fail to d full     
ju/ice to 8 meal4 ,he %[$ ?is "o ev5+ :5
 he _h fill$ a little p>ty ( u to       
repletion by 8 lavi% provision = our    
ent]ta9m5t1 & nature rebell$ aga9/ any?+
 m4 ,to u came ,coppa 9 te>s4  ,:at is !
 matt] ) ! *ick51 ,doctor8 ,is x n cook$
 j "r8  ,x 0 ) difficulty t we made him 
und]/& t !re 0 a limit to capacity1 & t 
he _h f$ u ) su* b\ntiful h& we c\ld eat
 no m4 ,ev5 n[ :5 we g to ,coppa's we h 
a little feel+ ( fe> le/ we (f5d him by 
n eat+ en\gh to conv9ce him t we are    
pleas$4  ,coppa's walls 7 always adorn$ 
) /range conceits ( ! arti/s & writ]s :o
 frequ5t$ 8 place1 & aft] a picture1 or 
a bit ( v]se _h rema9$ until x 0 too    
famili> "s "o eras$ x & replac$ x )     
some?+ he ?\ght 0 bett]4 ,we pres]v$ "o 
writt5 by an unkn[n ,bohemian4 ,we give 
x j z x 03  ,?r\gh ! fog ( c5turies1 dim
 & d5se1 ,i sometimes seem to see ,!    
%ad[y l9e ( a backy>d f5ce ,& a fel9e   

%ape ( me4 ,i he> ! gr[l1 & y[l & h[l ,(
 ea* nocturnal fight1 ,& ! ?roaty /ir1  
half cry1 half purr ,( passionate       
delight1 ,z seek+ an amor\s r5dezv\s ,my
 anci5t bro!rs g /eal+ ,?r\gh ! purple  
gloom ( night4  ,i've se5 y\r eyes1 ) a 
gre5i% gl9t2 ,y move ) a fel9e grace2 ,&
 :5 y are pleas$ ,i cat* ! h9t ,( a purr
 9 y\r ?roat & face4 ,!n ,i wond] if y  
are dream+1 too1 ,( temples along !     
,nile1 ,:]e y y[l$ & h[l$1 & lov$ &     
pr[l$1 ,) _m a s5su\s wile1 ,& borr[$ ! 
grace y own today ,f t o!r life 9 !     
f>-away2 ,& if su* dreams beguile4  ,i  
"k t y sit by y\r cozy fire1 ,:5 %ad[s  
cr[d ! room1 ,& my s\l responds to an   
old desire ,to roam ?r\gh ! velvety     
gloom1 ,s /eal?ily /eal+1 s(tly %od1 ,my
 _s is hurry+ !nce ,to ! lure ( an      
anci5t my/ic god1 ,^: magnet is int5se1 
,:]e ,i "k y\r s\l1 too1 roams 9 fur1 ,=
 ,i he> x call ) a ?roaty purr1 ,f !    
%ad[y backy>d f5ce4    ,bohemia ( !     
,pres5t  ,san ,francisco's c>e-free _s 0
 fully exemplifi$ be=e ! a%es ( ! great 

fire ( #aijf 7 cold4 ,on e h& "o c\ld   
f9d little eat+ places e/abli%$ 9 !     
/reets1 "s made ( ab&on$ boxes1 o!rs (  
debris f ! burn$ build+s1 & "s 9 vacant 
basem5ts & little /ore rooms1 :ile a few
 ent]pris+ individuals improvis$ :eel$  
d9+ rooms & w5t f "o "p ( ! city to     
ano!r s]v+ meals4  ,! ve9 ( humor (     
irrepressible eff]vesc5ce ( _s born (   
,bohemianism gave to ^! eat+ places high
 s\nd+ names1 & _m 7 cov]$ ) witty signs
 :i* laugh$ 9 ! face ( ,fate4  ,fillmore
 became ! great bus9ess /reet ( ! city  
n[ 9 a%es1 & "h 7 e/abli%$ ! fir/       
re/aurants ( any pret5sions1 ! ,l\vre   
be+ fir/ to op5 an e/abli%m5t t _h !    
old-"t appe>ance4 ,?is 0 on ! corn] (   
,fillmore & ,ellis1 & _h l>ge patronage1
 x be+ cr[d$ nightly ) m5 & wom5 :o     
seem$ to =get t ,san ,francisco _h be5  
de/roy$4 ,?ompson op5$ a l>ge re/aurant 
9 ,o',f>rell /reet1 j above ,fillmore1 &
 = two ye>s or m did a ?riv+ bus9ess1 8 
place be+ not$ = its good cook+ & its   
spl5did s]vice4 ,"o ( 8 wait]s1 ,phil   

,tyson1 0 "o ( ! e>li] ones to g back   
into ! burn$ di/rict to beg9 bus9ess &  
he op5$ a re/aurant call$ ! ,del ,monte 
9 ,p[ell /reet ne> ,m>ket1 b x 0 too    
e>ly = success & clos$ aft] a %ort c>e]4
  ,?ompson enli/$ o!rs to jo9 ) him 9   
op5+ a magnific5t place "u ! new ,flood 
build+ at ! corn] ( ,p[ell & ,m>ket     
/reet1 b ?r\gh faulty und]/&+ ( f9ancial
 p[] ,?ompson 0 compell$ to give up 8   
int]e/ & ! place aft]w>d clos$4 ,x has  
s9ce be5 reop5$ "u ! "n ( !             
,portola-,l\vre1 :]e n[ cr[ds assemble  
nightly to li/5 to music & witness      
cab>et p]=mances4 ,"h1 z well z 9 a     
numb] ( o!r places1 "o c well appreciate
 ! colloquial def9ition ( cab>et4 ,t :i*
 takes ! re/ out ( re/aurant & puts ! d9
 9 d9n]4 ,if "o likes noise & di/raction
 :ile eat+ su* places are good to       
patronize4  ,across ! /reet f !         
,portola-,l\vre at #ae ,p[ell /reet is !
 mod]niz$ ,te*au ,tav]n n[ kn[n z       
,te*au's4 ,"h !re is always good music &
 food well cook$ & well s]v$1 & always a

 lively cr[d dur+ ! lun*eon1 d9n] &     
aft]-!atre h\rs4 ,! room is n l>ge b its
 dim5sions are greatly magnifi$ ow+ to !
 cov]+ ( mirrors :i* l9e ! walls4 ,?is  
g>i% display ( mirrors1 & elaborate     
decoration ( ceil+ & pill>s1 gives x !  
appe>ance ( ! abode ( ,saturnalia1 b    
decorum is ! rule among ! patrons4      
,ar\nd at #afh ,o',f>rell /reet1 j      
opposite ! ,orpheum !atre1 is           
,tait-,z9k& re/aurant1 or z x is m      
popul>ly kn[n1 ,tait's4 ,john ,tait is !
 presid+ _s "h1 he hav+ made reputation 
z club manag]1 & !n z manag] ( ! ,cliff 
,h\se4 ,"o ( ! p>tn]s "h 0 ,c>l ,z9k&1  
:o ran ! old ,z9k&'s be=e ! fire4  ,:ile
 ^! ?ree re/aurants are ( simil> type   
nei!r has ! pre-fire atmosph]e4 ,!y are 
lively1 always1 ) music & gay ?rongs1 & 
s]ve good food4  ,"o ( ! e>ly re/aurants
 e/abli%$ aft] ! fire 0 ,blanco's1 at   
#heg ,o',f>rell /reet1 & lat] ,blanco   
op5$ ! ,poodle ,dog 9 ,mason /reet j    
above ,eddy4 ,bo? ( ^! re/aurants are ( 
! old ,fr5* type & are high class 9 e   

respect4 ,! ,poodle ,dog has a hotel    
atta*m5t :]e "o may get rooms or full   
ap>tm5ts4  ,if y "k h[ to ord]1 & d n   
c>e to c\nt ! co/ :5 y ord]1 probably ! 
be/ d9n] at ^! re/aurants c be _h at    
ei!r ,blanco's or ! ,poodle ,dog4 ,!    
cuis9e is ( ! be/ & ! *efs rank at ! top
 ( _! art4 ,prices are high] ?an at !   
o!r re/aurants m5tion$1 b "o c]ta9ly    
gets ! be/ !re is prep>$ 9 ! be/ way4   
,b ! same food1 prep>$ equally well1 is 
to be f\nd 9 a numb] ( less pret5ti\s   
places4 ,at ! two m5tion$ "o pays = !   
surr\nd+s z well z = ! food1 & sometimes
 ?is is wor? pay+ =4  ,! re/aurants ( ! 
pres5t day t approa* ne>e/ ! old        
,bohemian re/aurants ( pre fire days1 ( 
! ,fr5* class1 are ,jack's 9 ,sacram5to 
/reet betwe5 ,montgom]y & ,ke>ny2       
,felix1 9 ,montgom]y /reet betwe5 ,clay 
& ,wa%+ton1 & ! ,poodle                 
,dog-,b]gez-,franks1 9 ,bu% /reet betwe5
 ,ke>ny & ,grant av5ue4 ,9 ei!r ( ^!    
re/aurants y w be s]v$ ) ! be/ ! m>ket  
af=ds1 cook$ ! "r way4 ,9 ,clay /reet   

opposite ! ,cali=nia ,m>ket is ! ,new   
,frank's1 "o ( ! be/ ( ! ,italian       
re/aurants1 & mu* patroniz$ by ,italian 
m]*ants4 ,next to x is ,coppa's1 b x is 
no long] run by ,coppa4 ,9 ?is same     
di/rict is ! ,m9t1 9 ,comm]cial /reet   
betwe5 ,montgom]y & ,ke>ny /reets4 ,x   
has *ang$ f :at x 0 9 ! old days1 b is  
/ill an excell5t place to d9e4          
,negro's1 at #fbe ,m]*ant /reet1 ne> !  
,hall ( ,ju/ice1 has q a foll[+ ( ^? ^: 
bus9ess atta*es !m to ! c\rts1 & :ile _m
 claim ?is to be "o ( ! be/ ( its class1
 we believe ! claim to be bas$ less on  
good cook+ ?an on ! fact t ! habitues   
are intimate1 mak+ x a pleasant resort =
 !m4 ,! cook+ is good & ! v>iety :at !  
m>ket af=ds4  ,9 ,wa%+ton /reet1 j (f   
,columbus av5ue1 is ,bon9i's ,b>n1 mak+ 
great pret5se ?r\gh an unique idea4 ,s  
f> z ! re/aurant is conc]n$ ! food is a 
little bel[ ! av]age ( ,italian         
re/aurants4 ,"o goes !re once ?r\gh     
curiosity & f9ds himself 9 a room t has 
all ! appe>ance ( ! int]ior ( a b>n1 )  

*ick5s & pigeons /rutt+ ar\nd1 h>ness   
hang+ on pegs1 & hay 9 mang]s1 & all !  
f>m+ ut5sils ar\nd to give x !          
v]isimilitude ( c\ntry4 ,tables & *airs 
are crude 9 ! extreme & old-"t lant]ns  
are us$ = light+4 ,x is an idea t is    
wor? :ile1 b1 un=tunately1 ! proprietors
 dep5d too mu* on ! decorative feature &
 too little on ! food & h[ !y s]ve x4   
,! ,fly ,trap1 & ,*>lie's ,fa%ion1 !    
fir/ 9 ,sutt] /reet ne> ,ke>ny & ! o!r 9
 ,m>ket ne> ,sutt]1 s]ve well-cook$     
foods1 especially s\p1 salads1 & fi%4 ,(
 c\rse ^! are n ! entire m5us b ( all ! 
well-prep>$ di%es ^! are _! be/4 ,felix1
 m5tion$ be=e1 also makes a specialty ( 
8 family s\p1 :i* is excell5t4  ,spani% 
d9n]s ( good quality are to be _h at !  
,madril5a1 at #agg ,eddy /reet1 & at !  
,ca/ilian1 at #cdd ,sutt] /reet4 ,bo?   
s]ve good ,spani% d9n]s at reasonable   
prices4 ,!y s]ve table d'hote d9n]s1 b y
 c also get ,spani% di%es on special    
ord]4  ,"u ! ,monadnock build+1 9 ,m>ket
 /reet ne> ,?ird1 is ,jule's1 well lik$ 

& well patroniz$ because ( its good     
cook+ & good s]vice4 ,jule is "o ( !    
not$ re/aurateurs ( ! city1 hav+ atta9$ 
high celebrity be=e ! fire4 ,8 prices   
are mod]ate & 8 cook+ & vi&s ( ! be/1 & 
w satisfy ! mo/ critical ( ! g\rmets4   
,at ! corn] ( ,m>ket & ,eddy /reets is !
 ,odeon1 d[n 9 a basem5t1 ) decorations 
( mo/ g>i% ord]4 ,!re is a good *ef & ! 
place has q a vogue among lov]s ( good  
?+s to eat4 ,probably at no place 9 ,san
 ,francisco c "o f9d game cook$ bett]   
?an at ,jack's1 #fae ,sacram5to /reet4  
,8 ducks are always cook$ s z to elicit 
high praise4 ,he has an old-/yle ,fr5*  
table d'hote d9n] :i* he s]ves = #a4be1 
includ+ w9e4 ,or y may ord] any?+ 9 !   
m>ket & y w f9d x cook$ ! be/ way4 ,"o (
 ! specialties ( ,jack's is fi%1 = :i* !
 re/aurant is not$4 ,x is always /rictly
 fre% & book$ to suit ! mo/ fa/idi\s    
ta/e4    ,z x is 9 ,g]many  ,:5 y see   
,augu/ 7d n fail to pron\nce x ,owgoo/7 
9 repose y involunt>ily say1 t is if y  
und]/& ,g]man1 ,mir i/ alles an1 :i* is 

! ,g]man equival5t ( ,i %\ld worry4 ,:5 
,augu/ is 9 action y imm$iately get a   
?ir/ t no?+ b a /e9 ( cold be] w qu5*4  
,augu/ is ! pride ( ! ,heidelb]g ,inn at
 #ce ,ellis /reet4 ,all y c see f !     
/reet z y pass ar\nd ! corn] f ,m>ket1  
is a sign & "s /airs lead+ d[n into a   
basem5t1 b d n draw back j because x is 
a basem5t re/aurant1 = if y d y w miss  
"o ( ! v few real ,bohemian re/aurants (
 ,san ,francisco4 ,possibly our po9t (  
view w n co9cide ) t ( o!rs1 b :ile !re 
are doz5s ( o!r ,bohemian re/aurants !re
 is b "o ,heidelb]g ,inn4 ,"h is        
absolute fre$om f irksome conv5tionality
 ( o!r p1 & none ( ! ne> ,bohemianism ( 
s _m places claim+ ! title4  ,at !      
,heidelb]g ,inn "o ne$ nev] fe>         
obtrusiv5ess on ! "p ( o!r visitors1 =  
"h ev]ybody att5ds /rictly to 8 or h]   
own p>ty1 enjoy+ a cam>ad]ie t has all !
 g5u9e1 :ole-s\l$ companion%ip f\nd only
 :]e ,g]man families are accu/om$ to    
congregate to seek relaxation f ! toil &
 worry ( ! day4  ,an ev5+ sp5t 9        

,heidelb]g ,inn is "o replete ) "* /udy 
t _c be excell$ any:]e 9 ,san           
,francisco--& ?is means t ev]ybody !re  
is wor? :ile z a /udy1 f ! little1      
bald-head$ wait]1 ,heme1 & ! big1 impos+
 wait]1 ,augu/1 to ! ,h]r ,doctor :o    
comes to =get ! s]i\s surgical case t   
has be5 worry+ him at ! hospital4 ,"h y 
d n f9d obtrusive wait]s bru%+ imag9>y  
crumbs f y\r *air ) obsequi\s h&1 nor   
ov] zeal\s /ew>ds solicit\s ( y\r food's
 quality4 ,x is all p]fect because x is 
made p]fect by good managem5t4 ,"h are  
,g]man families1 f ,grossfad] &         
,grossmutt]1 d[n to ! newe/ gr&*ild1    
sitt+ & enjoy+ _! be] & li/5+ to su*    
music z c be he>d n[h]e else 9 ,san     
,francisco1 z !y eat _! s&wi*es (       
limburg]1 or m da9ty di%es accord+ to _!
 ta/es4  ,"o c almo/ imag9e himself 9 "o
 ( ! fam\s ra?skell]s ( ,old            
,heidelb]g--n at ! ,s*loss1 ( c\rse1 =  
"h y _c look d[n on ! ,weis] z x fl[s   
b5ea? ! w9d[s ( ! great w9e /ube on !   
hill4 ,b y h ! real atmosph]e1 & ?is is 

enhanc$ by ! mottoes 9 decoration & !   
flagons1 /ems & plaques t adorn ! pill>s
 z well z typical ,g]man environm5t4  ,x
 is :5 ! m>tial /ra9s ( ,de ,wa*t am    
,rhe9 are he>d f ! or*e/ra1 :i* ( itself
 is an in/itution1 t ! true cam>ad]ie ( 
! place is appreciat$1 = !n gue/s1      
wait]s1 b>keep]s1 & ev5 ! eagle-ey$     
gray-hair$ manag]1 jo9 9 ! swell+ *orus1
 & y c well und]/& :y ,g]man soldi]s are
 inspir$ to m>* to victory :5 !y he> ^! 
/irr+ *ords4  ,b !re is o!r             
music--sometimes nei!r inspir+ nor      
beautiful :5 he>d 9 a ,g]man            
ra?skell]--! music ( rag "t4 ,if !re is 
any?+ funni] ?an a ,g]man or*e/ra try+  
to play rag-"t music we h nev] he>d x4  
,x is unconsci\s humor on "p ( !        
or*e/ra1 consequ5tly is all ! m         
excruciat+4  ,b if y really love good   
music--music t has melody & rhy?m &     
soo?+ cad5ces1 g to ! ,heidelb]g ,inn & 
li/5 to ! conc]t :i* is a feature ( !   
place e ev5+4 ,& :ile y are li/5+ to !  
music y c enjoy su* food z is to be f\nd

 n[h]e else 9 ,san ,francisco1 = x is   
di/9ctly ,heidelb]gian4 ,we ask$ = !    
recipe t !y consid]$ ! v be/ 9 !        
re/aurant1 & ,hirs*1 ) a %rug ( 8       
%\ld]s1 said3 ,oh1 we h s _m f9e di%es4 
,we f9ally got him to select ! "o priz$ 
above all o!rs & ?is is :at ,*ef ,s*eil]
 gave u3  ,g]man ,sau] ,brat5  ,take f\r
 p\nds ( cle> beef1 f ei!r ! %\ld] or   
rump1 & pickle x = two days 9 "o-half   
gallon ( cl>et & "o-half gallon ( good  
w9e v9eg> 7n cid]74 ,to ! pickle add two
 l>ge onions cut 9 qu>t]s1 two fre%     
c>rots & ab\t "o ounce ( mix$ :ole      
allspice1 black pepp]s1 cloves & bay    
leaves4  ,:5 ready = cook+ take ! meat  
out ( ! br9e & put 9 a roa/+ pan4 ,put 9
 ! ov5 & br[n to a gold5 color4 ,!n take
 x out ( ! roa/+ pan & put x into a     
cass]ole1 aft] spr9kl+ x ) two ounces ( 
fl\r4 ,put into ! ov5 aga9 & cook = half
 an h\r1 ba/+ frequ5tly ) ! orig9al     
br9e4  ,:5 done take ! meat out ( !     
sauce4 ,/ra9 ! sauce ?r\gh a f9e coll&] 
& add a few rais9s1 a piece ( honey     

cake1 or g+] snaps & ! meat ( "o fre%   
tomato4 ,season ) salt & pepp] & a      
little sug> to ta/e4 ,slice & s]ve ) !  
sauce ov] x4  ,= ^? :o l ,g]man di%es & 
,g]man cook+ x is n necess>y to conf9e  
y\rself to ! ,heidelb]g ,inn1 = bo? !   
,h( ,brau1 9 ,m>ket j above ,f\r? /reet1
 & ! ,g]man ,h\se ,ra?skell]1 at ,turk &
 ,polk /reets are good places :]e y c   
get :at y want4 ,! ,h( ,brau1 h[ev]1 is 
less di/9ctively ,g]man z ! great] numb]
 ( its patrons are ,am]icans4 ,!        
specialty ( ! ,h( ,brau is abalone's1 & 
!y h z a feature ?is %ell fi% cook$ 9   
sev]al ways4 ,!y also h z ! *ef 9 *>ge (
 ! abalone di%es1 ,h]b]t1 =m]ly *ef = "o
 ( ! ya*t clubs ( ! coa/1 :o claims to h
 ! only prop] recipe = mak+ abalone's   
t5d]4 ,"u ord9>y circum/ances ! abalone 
is t\gh & unpalatable1 b aft] ! deft    
manipulation ( ,h]b]t !y are t5d] & make
 a f9e di%1 ei!r fri$1 z *[d] or a la   
,newb]g4 ,9 addition to abalone's ! ,h( 
,brau makes a specialty ( little ,oregon
 crawfi%4 ,:ile !re is a di/9ctive      

,g]man atmosph]e at ! ,ra?skell] ( !    
,g]man ,h\se1 ! place is too f> out to  
ga!r su* numb]s z congregate at ei!r !  
,heidelb]g or ! ,h( ,brau1 b "o c get ! 
be/ ( ,g]man cook+ "h & spl5did s]vice1 
& = a quiet little ,dut* supp] we "k (  
no place t w accommodate y bett] ?an !  
,ra?skell]4  ,on special occasions1 :5  
"s ,g]man society or club is giv+ a     
dance or hold+ a meet+ at ! ,g]man      
,h\se1 ! ,ra?skell] is ! mo/ typical    
,g]man place 9 ,san ,francisco1 & if y g
 at su* a "t y w get all ! atmosph]e y w
 desire1 z well z ! be/ ! m>ket af=ds 9 
! way ( good vi&s4    ,9 ! ,he>t (      
,italy  ,:at a relief x is sometimes to 
h a good wait] say3 ,y d n "k :at y     
want8 ,w y let me br+ y ! be/ !re is 9 !
 h\se8 ,sometimes1 y "k1 y really d n "k
 :at y want1 & usually :5 t is ! case y 
are n v hungry4 ,t is always a good "t  
to try new ?+s4 ,x is also possible t y 
d n "k :at y want because y d n "k h[ to
 ord]4 ,9 ei!r in/ance our advice is1 if
 ! wait] gets confid5tial & (f]s 8      

assi/ance y w c]ta9ly miss some?+ if y d
 n accept 8 good (fices4  ,?is 0 ! case 
) u1 "o day :5 we 7 ov] at #aedi        
,/ockton /reet1 ne> ,wa%+ton ,squ>e1 at 
! ,gi&uja4 ,! prop] pronunciation ( ?is 
is z if x 7 spell$ ,zhan-du-ya4 ,?is is 
"o ( ! good ,italian re/aurants ( !     
,lat9 qu>t]4 ,at ! ,gi&uja y get ! two  
prime ess5tials to a good meal--good    
cook+ & excell5t s]vice4 ,x matt]s n    
:e!r y take _! ?irty-five c5t lun*eon or
 ord] a mo/ elaborate meal1 y w f9d t ! 
s]vice is j :at x ought to be4 ,we ask$ 
,br5ti :at he consid]$ 8 mo/ fam\s di%1 
& l all o!r proprietors1 he %rugg$ 8    
%\ld]s & said1 ) h&s emphasiz+ 8 words3 
,we h s _m f9e di%es4  ,( c\rse we "k t1
 b :at d y consid] ! v be/8  ,!re is no 
"o ! 'v be/'4 ,i c\ld give y two4  ,let 
x be two1 !n1 0 our imm$iate rejo9d]1 & 
"h is :at he gave u z ! be/ recipes ( ! 
,gi&uja4  ,fir/1 let u give y an idea ( 
! difficulty "u :i* we secur$ ^! recipes
 by pr9t+ !m j z he wrote !m d[n = u1 & 
!n we %all elaborate a little & %[ !    

result ( skillful que/ion+4 ,?is is !   
way he wrote ! recipe = ,risotto        
,milanaise3  ,risotto ala ,milanaise    
,onions *op f9e--m>r[ & little          
butt]--rice--saffron--*ick5 bro?--w5    
cook add fre% butt] & ,p>mesan *eese    
season$4  ,:at 0 embodi$ 9 ! words w5   
cook 0 ! ess5tial ( ! recipe & "h is !  
way we got x3  ,*op "o l>ge onion f9e4  
,cut a beef m>r[ into small dice & /ir x
 ) ! *opp$ onion4 ,put a small piece (  
butt] 9 a fry+ pan & into ?is put !     
onion & m>r[ & fry to a delicate br[n4  
,n[ add "o scant cup ( rice1 /irr+      
con/antly1 & into ?is put a p9* (       
saffron t has be5 bruis$4 ,:5 ! rice    
takes on a br[n color add1 sl[ly1 *ick5 
bro? z ne$$1 until ! rice is ?or\ghly   
cook$4 ,!n add a lump ( fre% butt] ab\t 
! size ( a walnut1 & spr9kle lib]ally ) 
grat$ ,p>mesan *eese1 season+ to ta/e ) 
pepp] & salt4 ,?is is to be s]v$ ) *ick5
 or veal4  ,! second recipe 0 = ,fritto 
,mi/o1 & he wrote x z foll[s3  ,fritto  
,mi/o  ,lamb *ops & bra9s               

bread$--sweetbreads--escallop (         
veal--fre% mu%rooms--,italian squa% :5 9
 season--asp>agus or caulifl[]--fri$ 9  
fre% butt]--dipp$ 9 beat5 eggs--lime    
jus4  ,fritto ,mi/o means fri$ mixture1 
& ! recipe z we f9ally elucidat$ x is z 
foll[s3  ,take a lamb *op1 a piece (    
calf bra91 "o sweetbread1 a slice (     
veal1 a fre% mu%room1 slic$ ,italian    
squa%1 a piece ( asp>agus or ( caulifl[]
 & dip ^! into a batt] made ( an egg    
well beat5 ) a little fl\r4 ,spr9kle ^! 
) a little lime juice & fry to a        
delicate br[n 9 butt]1 add+ salt & pepp]
 to ta/e4  ,at ! ,gi&uja1 z at all o!r  
,italian re/aurants n mu* affect$ by    
,am]icans1 y w f9d an atmosph]e (       
unconv5tionality t is delightful to !   
,bohemian4 ,!re is no irksome espionage 
on ! "p ( o!r patrons1 all ( :om are !re
 = ! purpose ( att5d+ /rictly to _! own 
bus9ess1 & ! affairs ( o!r d9]s are ( no
 consequ5ce to !m4 ,!re is fre$om (     
expression & unconsci\sness1 mo/ pleas+ 
aft] hav+ exp]i5c$ ^? o!r re/aurants :]e

 x seems to be ! bus9ess ( all ! re/ ( !
 gue/s to "k j :at y are eat+ & dr9k+4  
,!re is little ( ! obnoxi\s pos+ t "o   
f9ds 9 re/aurants ( ! d[nt[n di/ricts1 =
 :ile ,italians1 9 common ) all o!r     
,lat9s1 are natural born poseurs1 !y are
 n (f5sive 9 x1 b r impress y ) ! same  
feel+ z ! antics ( a *ild4  ,"o ( !     
little1 out-(-! way re/aurants ( !      
,italian qu>t] is ! ,leon d',oro1 at    
#aebe ,grant av5ue1 & x is "o ( !       
surprises ( t di/rict4 ,lazz>9i1 he ) ! 
big voice1 presides ov] ! t9y kit*5 9 ! 
re> ( ! room devot$ to public s]vice &  
family affairs4 ,s(t-voic$ ,rita1 ) h]  
demure air & h] resemblance to          
,evangel9e1 ) h] cross$ apron1 /r+s &   
delicate features1 takes y\r ord]1 &    
soon comes ! boom+ s\nd f ! neighborhood
 ( ! range1 t ann\nces to all patrons1 z
 well z to "s :o may be 9 ! vic9ity on !
 /reet1 t y\r ord] is ready1 & !n       
ev]ybody kn[s :at y are eat+4 ,z y sit1 
ei!r 9 curta9$ alcove or at ! common    
table 9 ! ma9 room1 little ,&rea w visit

 y ) 8 cat4 ,bo? are in/itutions ( !    
place & "o is1 prone to wond] h[ a cat c
 h s mu* pati5ce ) a little boy4 ,&rea  
speaks ,italian s flu5tly & s rapidly t 
x gives y ! impression ( a quick ru%+   
/ream ( pure wat]1 tumbl+ ov] ! /ones ( 
a /eep declivity4 ,he is n yet old en\gh
 to und]/& t x is n ev]ybody :o kn[s h[ 
to speak ,italian1 b t makes n !        
slighte/ diff]5ce ) him1 = he talks )\t 
ev] expect+ an answ]4  ,lazz>9i und]/&s 
! art & sci5ce ( cook+1 & "s ( ! di%es  
he prep>es are s unusual t "o goes aga9 
& aga9 to p>take ( !m3 ,possibly 8 be/  
di% is ! foll[+3  ,*ick5 a la ,leon     
,d'oro  ,cut a spr+ *ick5 into pieces4  
,place ^! 9 a pan conta9+ hot olive oil1
 & season ) salt & pepp]4 ,turn ! *ick5 
until x is ?or\ghly br[n$1 & add f9ely  
*opp$ gre5 pepp]s4 ,let x cook a:ile !n 
add a f9ely *opp$ clove ( g>lic & a     
little sage4 ,put 9 a small glass (     
,m>sala w9e1 tomato sauce & ,fr5*       
mu%rooms & let simm] = t5 m9utes4 ,be=e 
tak+ f ! pan add half a tablespoonful ( 

butt] & s]ve on a hot plate4  ,lazz>9i  
also makes a specialty ( snails1 & !y   
are well wor? try+ :ile y are exp]im5t+ 
) ! unusual ?+s to eat4 ,! recipe = ^!  
is z foll[s3  ,snails a la ,bordelaise  
,put t5 p\nds ( snails 9 a cov]$ b>rel &
 keep = t5 days4 ,!n put 9 a tub ) a    
h&ful ( salt & a qu>t] ( a gallon (     
v9eg>4 ,/ir = tw5ty m9utes until a foam 
rises1 !n take out & wa% ?or\ghly until 
! wat] runs cle>4 ,put 9 a l>ge pot a   
p9t ( virg9 olive oil1 f\r l>ge onions &
 eight cloves ( g>lic1 all *opp$ f9e1 & 
a small bun* ( p>sley1 *opp$ f9e4 ,put !
 pot ov] ! fire & :5 ! onions are br[n$ 
/ir 9 "s :ite w9e or ,m>sala & !n put 9 
! snails4 ,cov] & let simm] = ?irty-five
 m9utes4 ,:ile cook+ add a p9t ( meat   
/ock1 a little butt] & "s anise se$4 ,:5
 done put 9 a s\p ture5 & s]ve4 ,to     
remove ! snails use small wood5         
too?picks4    ,a ,brea? ( ! ,ori5t  ,san
 ,francisco's _w-fam$ ,*9at[n1 l ! re/ (
 ! city1 is *ang$ s9ce ! big fire1 & !  
,*9at[n ( today is b a rem9isc5ce ( !   

old ,ori5tal city t 0 set 9 ! mid/ ( !  
mo/ ?riv+ ,occid5tal metropolis--,!     
,city ,t ,04 ,!re has nev] be5 mu* (    
,*9at[n t savor$ ( ,bohemianism1 b x has
 always be5 ! vogue = visitors to make a
 trip ?r\gh its my/]i\s alleys1 pe]+    
into ! fe>some d>k doorways1 li/5+ to ! 
om9\s slamm+ doors ( ! clubs1 & %udd]+ 9
 a delightful horror at ! recumb5t opium
 smok]s1 po9t$ out to !m by ! indu/ri\s 
guide4 ,& :5 !y 7 tak5 into "o ( !      
gambl+ h\ses & %[n ! d\ble doors1 & ! _m
 contrivances us$ to prev5t police      
int]f]5ce ) ! innoc5t games ( fan tan & 
!n 7 %[n ! secret und]gr\nd passage     
lead+ f "o ( ! gambl+ h\ses to ! /age ( 
! great ,*9ese !atre1 two blocks away1  
!y w5t home ready to believe any?+ told 
!m ab\t ! ways t are d>k & tricks t are 
va91 = !y 7 sure ! hea!n ,*9ee 0        
peculi>4  ,*9ese re/aurant life nev]    
appeal$ to ,bohemians1 & :5 x became    
necess>y to ent]ta9 visitors ) a trip to
 a ,*9at[n re/aurant ! ord9>y s]vice 0 (
 tea & rice cakes1 s]v$ f lacqu]$ trays1

 9 gaudy rooms1 & ! admir+ visitors c\ld
 well imag9e !mselves 9 f> (f ,ca?ay4   
,!n came ! fire & ,*9at[n1 ) ! re/ ( !  
d[n-t[n portion ( ,san ,francisco1 pass$
 away4 ,9 ! rebuild+ ! own]s ( !        
prop]ties conclud$ to give ! qu>t] a m  
,*9ese aspect & pagoda l /ructures are  
n[ to be f\nd 9 all p>ts ( ! section4 ,!
 curiosity ( ! t\ri/ is an available    
asset to ,*9at[n1 & ) que] h\ses & que]]
 articles on sale !re is always pl5ty ( 
un9itiat$ to keep ! guides busy1 b f a  
city ( m ?an tw5ty-five ?\s& ,ori5tals 9
 ! mid/ ( an enlight5$ city--an ,asiatic
 city t _h its own laws & execut$ its   
crim9als ) ! mo/ utt] disreg>d =        
,am]ican laws1 x has *ang$ into "o ( !  
mo/ law-abid+ p>ts ( ! great city4 ,) ! 
pass+ ( ! queue came ! adoption ( !     
,am]ican /yle ( dress+1 & mu* ( !       
picturesqu5ess ( ! old ,*9at[n has      
disappe>$4  ,b ) ! *ang$ conditions !re 
has come a *ange 9 ! re/aurant life ( ! 
qu>t]1 & n[ a numb] ( places h be5 op5$ 
to cat] to ,am]icans1 & on e h& "o sees 

*op suey signs1 & ,*9ese noodles4 ,x    
goes )\t say+ t "o seldom sees a ,*9aman
 eat+ 9 ! re/aurants t are mo/          
attractive to ,am]icans4 ,"s s]ve bo?   
:ite & yell[ & o!rs s]ve b ! ,*9ese1 & a
 few favor$ :ite fri5ds4  ,probably !   
be/ re/aurant 9 ,*9at[n is t ( ! ,hang  
,f> ,l[ ,company1 at #gbc ,grant av5ue4 
,"h is s]v$ su* a v>iety ( /range di%es 
t "o has to be a brave ,bohemian1 inde$1
 to p>take )\t "q4 ,ord9>ily :5 ,*9ese  
re/aurants are m5tion$ b two di%es are  
?\ght (--*op suey & *[ ma94 ,b nei!r is 
consid]$ among ! f9e di%es s]v$ to      
,*9ese epicures4 ,x is mu* z if "o ( our
 be/ re/aurants 7 to adv]tise ha% z its 
specialty4 ,bo? ^! di%es might be t]m$  
glorifi$ ha%4 ,! +r$i5ts are s num]\s & 
s v>i$ ) occasion t "o is tempt$ to     
imag9e !m made ( ! table leav+s1 & t is 
n at all pleasant to contemplate4  ,we  
ask$ "o ( ! manag]s at ! ,hang ,f> ,l[  
:at he w\ld ord] if he wi%$ to get ! be/
 di% prep>$ 9 ! re/aurant1 & he 0 ev5 m 
emphatic 9 8 %rugs ?an ! ,fr5* or       

,italian manag]s4 ,he prote/$ t !re 7 s 
_m good ?+s x 0 impossible to "n j "o z 
be+ ! be/4 ,y see1 we h fi% f9s1 !y are 
v good4 ,snails1 ,*9a /yle4 ,v good1    
too4 ,!n we h turtle br\ght f ,*9a1     
diff]5t f ! turtle !y h "h1 & we cook x 
,*9a /yle4 ,eels come f ,*9a & !y are   
cook$ ,*9a /yle1 too4 ,:at is ,*9a /yle8
 ,t ,i _c tell y = ! cook kn[s & nobody 
else4 ,:5 we cook ,*9a /yle ev]y?+ is m 
bett]4 ,we h "h ! v be/ tea4  ,?is may  
be tak5 z a sample ( :at to expect :5   
visit+ ,*9at[n's re/aurants1 & :ile we  
confess to hav+ "s excell5t di%es s]v$ u
 9 ,*9at[n1 our pref]5ce lies 9 o!r pa?s
 ( endeavor4 ,we suppose x is all 9 !   
po9t ( view1 & our po9t ( view is t !re 
is no?+ except sup]ficiality 9 ! ord9>y 
,*9ese re/aurants frequ5t$ by ,am]icans1
 & ^? n s frequ5t$ are impossible       
because ( ! av]age ,*9aman's disreg>d = 
dirt & ! usual niceties ( food          
prep>ation4    ,arti/ic ,japan  ,we wi% 
x 7 9 our p[] to describe a c]ta9 d9n] z
 s]v$ u 9 a ,japanese re/aurant 9 ! days

 t foll[$ ! great fire4 ,desir+ to      
obs]ve 9 fitt+ mann] a bir?day          
anniv]s>y1 we ask$ a ,japanese fri5d if 
he c\ld secure admission = a little p>ty
 at a re/aurant not$ = s]v+ none b !    
highe/ class ,japanese4 ,we did n ev5 "k
 :]e ! re/aurant 0 b _h he>d ( su* a    
place1 & :5 we receiv$ ^w t we w\ld be  
p]mitt$ to h a d9n] !re we invit$ a     
newspap] fri5d :o 0 9 ! city f ,new     
,york1 toge!r ) two o!r fri5ds & !      
,japanese1 :o 0 ! editor ( ! ,soko      
,%imbun4 ,he took u to a dwell+ h\se 9  
,o',f>rell /reet1 hav+ giv5 previ\s     
notice ( our com+4 ,!re 0 no?+ on !     
outside to indicate t x 0 any?+ b a     
resid5ce1 b :5 we 7 u%]$ into ! l>ge    
front room1 we f\nd x beautifully       
decorat$ ) imm5se *rysan!mums1 & glitt]+
 ) silv] & cut glass on a magnific5tly  
arrang$ table4  ,9 def]5ce to ! fact t  
all b our ,japanese fri5d 7 unaccu/om$  
to *op/icks1 =ks 7 plac$ on ! table z   
well z ! little /icks t ! ,ori5tals use 
s deftly4 ,at ea* place 0 a beautiful   

lacqu] tray1 ab\t twelve by eighte5     
in*es1 a pair ( *op/icks1 a =k & a      
teaspoon4 ,be=e ! meal 0 ov] sev]al ( u 
became q exp]t 9 us+ ! *op/icks4  ,:5 we
 7 seat$ 9 came two little ,japanese    
wom51 9 full native co/ume1 be>+ a      
s]vice ( tea4 ,! cups & sauc]s 7 ( a mo/
 delicate blue & :ite w>e1 ) teapot to  
mat*4 ,our fir/ cup 0 tak5 /&+ 9 def]5ce
 to a ,japanese cu/om :]e all drank to !
 ho/4 ,!n foll[$ saki 9 little arti/ic  
bottles & saki cups t hold n mu* m ?an a
 d\ble tablespoonful4 ,saki is !        
,japanese w9e made ( rice1 & is tak5 9  
lib]al quantities4 ,at ea* s]v+ "s "o   
drank to "s "o else1 !n a return ( !    
complim5t 0 necess>y4 ,hav+ always he>d 
t ,ori5tals turn$ m5us topsy-turvy we 7 
n at all surpris$ :5 ! little s]v+ wom5 
br\ght to ea* ( u two silv] plates & set
 !m on our trays4 ,^! plates conta9$ :at
 appe>$ to be cake1 "o seem+ to be angel
 food ) ic+1 & ! o!r fruit cake ) ! same
 cov]+4 ,) ^! came b[ls ( s\p1 s]v$ 9   
lacqu] w>e1 made ( glut9\s ne/s (       

swall[s1 & also a salad made ( %>k f9s4 
,we ate ! s\p & salad & f\nd x good1 &  
!n made t5tative inve/igation ( ! cake4 
,to our great surprise we discov]$ !    
angel food to be fi% & ! ic+ 0 %r$d$ &  
press$ lob/]4 ,! fruitcake develop$ into
 press$ d>k meat ( *ick51 ) an ic+ (    
press$ & glaz$ :ite meat ( ! same f[l4  
,foll[+ ?is came ! second s]vice ( tea1 
?is "t 9 cups ( a r>e yell[ color &     
beautiful design1 ) simil> teapot4  ,!  
next c\rse 0 a mixture ( immature       
vegetables1 s]v$ 9 a sort ( saute4 ,^! 7
 spr\t+ beans1 l5tils1 peas & a numb] ( 
o!rs ) :i* we 7 unfamili>4 ,! :ole 0    
delicately flavor$ ) a peculi> sauce4   
,aft] a %ort wait1 dur+ :i* ! saki      
bottles circulat$ freely1 "o ( ! wom5   
came 9 be>+ al(t a l>ge silv] tray on   
:i* repos$ a mammo? crayfi%1 or         
,cali=nia lob/]4 ,?is appe>$ to be cov]$
 ) %r$d$ cocoanut1 & :5 x 0 plac$ be=e !
 ho/ = s]v+ he 0 at loss1 = no previ\s  
exp]i5ce told him :at to d4 ,x develop$ 
t ! %r$d$ mass on top 0 ! meat ( ! lob/]

 :i* _h be5 remov$ leav+ ! %ell-fi% 9   
p]fect =m4 ,x 0 s]v$ cold1 ) a peculi>  
sauce4  ,n[ foll[$ ! piece de resi/ance4
 ,a tub ( wat] 0 br\ght 9 & 9 ?is 0     
swimm+ a live fi%1 app>5tly ( ! c>p     
family4 ,aft] be+ on view = a few m9utes
 x 0 remov$ & soon ! h&maid5s appe>$ )  
?9ly slic$ raw fi%1 s]v$ ) soy sauce4   
,ord9>ily "o c imag9e no?+ m repulsive  
?an a di% ( raw fi%1 b we 7 tempt$ & did
 eat1 & f\nd x mo/ delici\s1 delicate1 &
 ) a flavor ( raw oy/]s4  ,next came !  
?ird s]vice ( tea1 ?is "t 9 a deep r$   
w>e4 ,!n came a dess]t ( unusual flavor 
& appe>ance1 foll[$ by pres]v$ g+] &    
fruit4  ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t dur+ !     
meal1 :i* la/$ f sev5 until pa/         
midnight1 saki 0 s]v$ con/antly yet no  
"o felt its influ5ce 9 m ?an a s5se (   
increas$ exhil>ation4 ,x is cu/om>y to  
let ! empti$ bottles rema9 on ! table   
until ! close ( ! meal1 & !re 0 a mighty
 %[+4  ,x 0 impossible to eat all t 0   
set be=e u1 b ,japanese cu/om =bids su* 
a brea* ( etiquette z an indication t ! 

food 0 n p]fection1 consequ5tly ! s]v+  
maids appe>$ be>+ six c>v$ teak boxes1 &
 plac$ "o at ea* plate4 ,into ^! we     
arrang$ ! food t 0 unconsum$1 & :5 we   
w5t away we c>ri$ x ) u4 ,to cap !      
climax ! ,japanese /ripp$ ! room ( its  
b\nte\s decoration ( *rysan!mums & pil$ 
!m into our arms & we w5t home load$ )  
food & fl[]s4  ,proprietor & all 8      
h\sehold accompani$ u to ! door ) _m b[s
 & ge/iculations1 wi%+ u be/ ( luck1 &  
we w5t back to our homes 9 ! desolat$   
city ) ! feel+ ( hav+ be5 transport$ to 
,fairyl& ( ! ,ori5t4  ,we discov]$ lat] 
t our ,japanese fri5d 0 ( ! family ( !  
,emp]or & 0 "h on a diplomatic mission4 
,old & ,new ,palace  ,"o _c well write a
 book on ,bohemian re/aurants ( ,san    
,francisco )\t say+ some?+ ab\t ! great 
hotel ^: hi/ory is s intimately int]tw9$
 ) t ( ! city s9ce #ahgc1 :5 ,william   
,c4 ,ral/on det]m9$ t ! city by ! ,gold5
 ,gate %\ld h a hotel comm5surate ) its 
importance4 ,san ,francisco & ! ,palace 
,hotel 7 almo/ synonym\s all ov] ! _w1 &

 x 0 conc$$ by travel]s t n[h]e else 0  
!re a ho/elry to equal ?is great hotel4 
,to ! bon vivant ! grills ( ! ,palace   
,hotel conta9$ m to enhance ! joy ( liv+
 ?an any:]e else1 & "h ! *efs prid$     
!mselves ) provid+ ! be/ 9 ! l&1 prep>$ 
9 su* p]fect ways z to make a meal at ! 
,palace ! p]fection ( ga/ronomic art4   
,!re are ?ree di/9ct eras to ! hi/ory ( 
! ,palace ,hotel1 ! fir/ be+ f #ahgf to 
#ahij1 ! second f #ahij to #aijf1 & !   
?ird f #aijf to ! pres5t day4 ,9 ! e>li]
 days ! grills1 bo? t = g5tlem5 & t =   
ladies1 7 not$ = _! magnific5t s]vice & 
_! wond]ful cook+4 ,a breakfa/ 9 !      
,ladies' ,grill1 ) an omelet ( ,cali=nia
 oy/]s1 toa/ & c(fee1 0 a meal long to  
be rememb]$4 ,possibly ! mo/ fam\s di% (
 ! old ,palace 0 ?is "o ( omelet )      
,cali=nia oy/]s1 & x 0 prep>$ 9 ! foll[+
 mann]3  ,oy/] ,omelet  7,= two73 ,take 
six eggs1 "o hundr$ ,cali=nia oy/]s1 "o 
small onion1 "o tablespoonful ( butt]1  
"o tablespoonful ( fl\r1 salt & pepp] to
 ta/e4 ,beat ! eggs to a fro? & /ir 9 ! 

onion *opp$ f9e4 ,put ! eggs into an    
omelet pan ov] a sl[ fire4 ,mix ! fl\r &
 butt] to a s(t pa/e ) a little cream1 &
 /ir 9 ) ! oy/]s1 add+ salt & pepp] to  
ta/e4 ,:5 ! eggs beg9 to /iff5 p\r !    
oy/]s ov] & turn ! omelet toge!r4 ,s]ve 
on hot plate ) a da% ( paprika4  ,?is is
 ! recipe ( ,erne/ ,arboga/1 ! *ef = _m 
ye>s ( ! old ,palace4 ,! slightly copp]y
 ta/e ( ! ,cali=nia oy/]s gives a       
piquancy to ! flavor ( ! omelet t c be  
obta9$ 9 no o!r way1 & ^? :o once ate ( 
,arboga/'s ,cali=nia oy/] omelet1       
inv>iably call$ = x aga9 & aga94  ,we   
ask$ ,jules ,dauvill]1 ! pres5t *ef ( ! 
,palace1 = ! recipe ( :at he consid]$ ! 
be/ di% n[ prep>$ at ! ,palace & he said
 he w\ld give u two1 z x 0 difficult to 
decide :i* 0 ! be/ & mo/ di/9ctive4 ,^! 
are ! recipes z he wrote !m = u3        
,plank$ ,fillet ,mignon  ,trim "s select
 fillet mignon ( beef1 ab\t f\r ounces (
 ea*1 nicely4 ,saute ^! 9 a fry+ pan )  
cl>ifi$ butt] on a hot fire4 ,dress on a
 small r\nd plank1 ab\t f\r & a half    

in*es 9 diamet]1 decorat$ ) a bord] (   
ma%$ potatoes4 ,ov] ! fillet mignon p\r 
/uff$ pim5toes1 cov]$ ) a sauce made (  
fre% mu%rooms1 saute$ sec ov] :i* has   
be5 p\r$ a little *ateaubri& sauce4     
,s]ve *ateaubri& sauce 9 a b[l4  ,!     
second is3  ,cold ,fillet ( ,s&-,dabs1  
,palace  ,select six nice fre% s&-dabs4 
,raise ! fillets f ! bone sk9 & p>e     
nicely1 & season ) salt & paprika4      
,arrange !m 9 an e>!nw>e di%4 ,cut 9    
,juli5ne "o /alk ( cel]y1 "o gre5 pepp]1
 "o cucumb]1 two or ?ree tomatoes1      
dep5d+ on _! size4  ,) ! bone ( !       
s&-dab1 well clean$1 make a /ock ) "o   
bottle ( ,riesl+1 juice ( "o lemon &    
season+4 ,add *]vil & t>ragon4 ,season  
to ta/e & cook ! ,juli5ne +r$i5ts ) "s (
 ! /ock4 ,:5 ! re/ ( ! /ock is boil+    
poa* x 9 ! fillets ( s&-dab1 !n remove f
 ! fire & let get cold4 ,put ! g>ni%+   
ar\nd ! fillets & put on ice to get 9   
jelly4 ,:5 ready to s]ve decorate ar\nd 
! di% ) any k9d ( salad y l1 & ) beets1 
cap]s1 olives & m>9at$ mu%rooms4 ,?is   

mu/ be s]v$ v cold & y may s]ve         
mayonnaise sauce on ! side4  ,we ask$   
,dauvill] :at he consid]$ 8 mo/ delicate
 salad & he gave u ?is recipe3  ,palace 
,grill ,salad  ,select ?ree he>ts (     
cel]y & cut !m ,juli5ne4 ,cut "s        
p9eapple & pim5toes into dice4 ,mix all 
well toge!r 9 a b[l & add mayonnaise    
sauce & a little :ipp$ cream4 ,spr9kle  
"s f9ely *opp$ gre5 pepp]s on top & s]ve
 v cold4    ,at ! ,hotel ,/4 ,francis   
,on ! morn+ ( ,april #ah1 #aijf1 "o ( u 
/ood 9 ! doorway ( ! ,hotel ,/4         
,francis1 & wat*$ approa*+ fires t came 
f ?ree directions4 ,x 0 b a few h\rs    
lat] :5 all t "p ( ! city 0 a mass (    
see?+ flames1 & 9 ! ru9s t lay 9 ! wake 
( deva/ation 0 ?is magnific5t ho/elry4  
,be=e bus9ess 9 ! d[n-t[n di/rict 0     
reorganiz$1 & :ile ! "w ( remov+ !      
tangl$ masses ( debris 0 /ill 9 progress
 ! ,m]*ants ,association ( ,san         
,francisco call$ its memb]s toge!r 9 its
 annual banquet1 & ?is banquet 0 held 9 
! basem5t ( ! ,hotel ,/4 ,francis1 !    

crumbl+ walls1 & *>r$ & black5$ timb]s  
hidd5 "u a mass ( bunt+ & foliage &     
fl[]s4 ,"h 0 emphasiz$ ! _s ( ,bohemian 
,san ,francisco1 & x 0 "o ( ! mo/ m]ry &
 enjoyable ( fea/s ev] held 9 ! city4   
,x 0 made possible by ! fact t !        
managem5t ( ! ,hotel ,/4 ,francis 0     
undaunt$ 9 ! face ( almo/ ov]:elm+      
disa/]4 ,! same _s has c>ri$ ! hotel    
?r\gh /ress ( /orm & x /&s n[1 almo/ z a
 monum5t to ! en]gy ( ,james ,woods1 its
 manag]4 ,!re has always be5 a s(t spot 
9 our he>ts = ! ,hotel ,/4 ,francis1 & x
 is "h t we h always felt a mo/         
pleasurable emotion :5 seek+ a place :]e
 good ?+s are s]v$4 ,:e!r x be 9 !      
magnific5t :ite & gold d9+ room1 or !   
old tape/ry room t has be5 remodel$ into
 a d9+ room1 or 9 ! electric grill bel[ 
/airs1 x has always be5 ! same4  ,we    
ask$ ,*ef ,victor ,h]tzl] :at he        
consid]$ 8 be/ recipe & 8 answ] 0       
*>act]i/ic ( him4  ,i %all give y ,sole 
,edw>d ,,vii4 ,if ?is is n satisfactory 
,i c give y a meat1 or a salad or a s\p 

recipe4 ,we consid]$ x satisfactory1 &  
"h x is3  ,sole ,edw>d ,,vii  ,cut !    
fillets out ( "o sole & lay !m flat on a
 butt]$ pan1 & season ) salt & pepp]4   
,make ! foll[+ mixture & spread ov] ea* 
fillet ( sole3 ,take "o-half p\nd (     
sweet butt]1 ?ree ounces ( *opp$ salt$  
almonds1 "o-f\r? p\nd ( *opp$ fre%      
mu%rooms1 a little *opp$ p>sley1 ! juice
 ( a lemon1 salt1 pepp] & a little grat$
 nutmeg4  ,add to ! pan "o-half glassful
 ( :ite w9e & put 9 ! ov5 = tw5ty       
m9utes4  ,:5 done s]ve 9 ! pan by plac+ 
x on a platt]1 ) a napk9 "u x4  ,h]tzl] 
has ano!r recipe :i* he prizes greatly &
 :i* he calls ,cel]y ,victor1 & ?is is !
 recipe :i* he gave u3  ,cel]y ,victor  
,take six /alks ( cel]y well wa%$4 ,make
 a /ock ( "o s\p h5 or *ick5 bones1 &   
five p\nds ( veal bones 9 ! usual mann]1
 ) c>rots1 onions1 p>sley1 bay leaves1  
salt & pepp]4 ,place ! cel]y 9 a vessel 
& /ra9 ! bro? ov] x4 ,boil until s(t &  
let cool (f 9 its own bro?4  ,:5 cold   
press ! bro? out ( ! cel]y ) ! h&1      

g5tly1 & place on a plate4 ,season )    
salt1 fre% gr\nd black pepp]1 *]vil1 &  
"o-qu>t] :ite w9e v9eg> ) t>ragon to    
?ree-qu>t]s ( be/ olive oil4    ,amid   
,bright ,lights  ,/reets c5t]+ ar\nd    
,p[ell f ,m>ket up to ,ge>y1 may well be
 t]m$ ! ,great ,:ite ,way ( ,san        
,francisco1 if ,new ,york w p]mit !     
plagi>ism4 ,"h are congregat$ ! mo/ not$
 ( ! lively re/aurants ( ! pres5t day   
,san ,francisco4 ,"h ! /reets are ablaze
 ) light at night1 & ?rong$ ) p1 = "h is
 ! re/aurant & !atre di/rict prop] ( !  
city4  ,among ! re/aurants des]v+ (     
special m5tion 9 ?is di/rict are ! two  
,sol>is4 ,:5 ,sol>i op5$ 8 re/aurant at 
#ced ,ge>y /reet1 :]e he cont9ues to    
attract good liv]s by ! excell5ce ( 8   
cook+1 he at once a*iev$ fame :i* has   
nev] wan$4 ,x s happ5$ t !re 7 two      
bro!rs1 & z sometimes occurs bro!rs     
disagre$ ) ! result t ,fr$ ,sol>i )drew 
& op5$ a re/aurant at ,ge>y & ,mason1 j 
a %ort di/ance f ! orig9al place4       
,evid5tly ! recipe = :at is consid]$ be/

 9 bo? ( ! ,sol>i re/aurants came f     
common own]%ip1 = ea* ( ^! places gave 9
 response to a reque/ = its be/ recipe1 
! foll[+3  ,*ick5 ,c\ntry ,/yle  ,cut a 
*ick5 9 eight pieces & drop !m into "s  
cold milk1 season+ ) salt4 ,aft] soak+ =
 a few m9utes dry ! *ick5 9 fl\r & lay 9
 a fry+ pan 9 good butt]4 ,place 9 ! ov5
 & let !m cook sl[ly1 turn+ !m          
occasionally until !y are nice & br[n on
 all sides1 :5 remove !m4 ,9 ! gravy put
 a tumbl]ful ( cream & a p9* ( paprika1 
mix well & let x cook = t5 m9utes1 until
 x gets ?ick1 !n /ra9 & p\r ov] ! *ick5 
& s]ve4  ,! foll[+ don'ts are add$ to ! 
recipe3 ,don't use froz5 p\ltry4 ,don't 
sub/itute corn />* & milk = cream4      
,ar\nd ,little ,italy  ,san ,francisco  
holds no m int]e/+ di/rict ?an t ly+    
ar\nd ! base ( ,telegraph ,hill1 &      
ext5d+ ov] t[>d ,nor? ,bea*1 ev5 z f> z 
,fi%]man's ,:>f4 ,"h is ! "p ( ,san     
,francisco t fir/ felt ! re/oration     
impulse1 & ?is 0 ! fir/ "p ( ,san       
,francisco rebuilt aft] ! great fire1 & 

9 its rebuild+ x recov]$ all ( its =m]  
*>act]i/ics1 :i* is m ?an c be said (   
any o!r "p ( ! rebuilt city4  ,"h1      
ext5d+ nor? f ,jackson /reet to ! ,bay1 
are congregat$ ,italians1 ,fr5*1        
,portuguese & ,mexicans1 ea* 9 a di/9ct 
colony1 & ea* ma9ta9+ ! life1 mann]s &  
cu/oms1 & 9 "s in/ances ! co/umes1 ( !  
p>5t c\ntries1 z fully z if !y 7 9 _!   
native l&s4 ,"h are /ores1 m>kets1 fi% &
 vegetable /alls1 bak]ies1 pa/e         
factories1 sausage factories1 *eese     
factories1 w9e presses1 tortilla        
bak]ies1 hotels1 p5sions1 & re/aurants2 
ea* di/9ctive & full ( =eign life &     
animation1 & ea* brea?+ an atmosph]e    
*>act]i/ic ( ! c\ntry f :i* ! p>5t /ock 
came4  ,walk along ! /reets on ! side ( 
,telegraph ,hill & "o c well imag9e     
himself transport$ to a sunny hillside 9
 ,italy1 = "h he he>s no o!r language   
?an t :i* came f ! %ores ( !            
,m$it]ranean4 ,"h are ,italians ( all   
ages1 sexes & conditions ( s]vitude1 f !
 padrone to ! bootblack :o works = a    

pittance until he obta9s en\gh to />t   
himself 9 bus9ess4 ,if "o inve/igate    
closely x w be f\nd t _m ( ! p ( ?is "p 
( ,san ,francisco h be5 "h = ye>s & /ill
 und]/& no o!r language ?an t ( _!      
native home4 ,:y %\ld !y le>n any?+     
else1 !y say4 ,ev]ybody ar\nd !m1 & )   
:om !y come 9 contact speaks ,italian4  
,"h are ! ,corsicans1 ) _! peculi> ideas
 ( ! v5detta & ! *eapness ( life 9      
g5]al1 & ! ,sicilians & ,g5oese &       
,milanese4 ,"h are "s f ! slopes (      
,vesuvius or ,aetna1 ) inborn k ( !     
grape & ( w9e mak+4 ,all h br\ght ) !m  
recipes & traditions1 "s dat+ back =    
hundr$s ( ye>s1 or ev5 ?\s&s1 to ! days 
be=e ! ,*ri/ian ,era 0 born4 ,x is j !  
same to !m z x 0 across ! ocean1 = !y   
he> ! same dialect & h ! same cu/oms4 ,d
 !y desire any special delicacy f _!    
home di/rict1 !y ne$ b g to ! ne>e/     
,italian groc]y /ore & get x1 = ^! /ores
 are suppli$ direct f ,g5oa or ,naples4 
,?is is ! reason t _m ( ! old] m5 & wom5
 /ill speak ! s(t dialect ( _! native   

communities1 & if y are s un=tunate z n 
to be able to und]/& !m1 !n x is y :o   
are ! los]4  ,d y wi% to "k some?+ ab\t 
conditions 9 ,mexico8 ,w\ld y l to le>n 
:at ! ,mexicans !mselves really ?9k ab\t
 affairs d[n 9 t di/urb$ republic8 ,g   
along ,broadway we/ ( ,grant av5ue1 & !n
 ar\nd ! corn] on ,/ockton1 & y w see   
/range signs1 & p]haps y w n "k t ,fonda
 means re/aurant1 or t ,ti5da1 means a  
/ore4 ,b ^! are ! signs y w see1 & :5 y 
g inside y w he> no?+ b ! g5tle ,spani% 
( ! ,mexican1 s ton$ d[n & s *ang$ t "s 
( ! ,ca/ilians pr(ess to be unable to   
und]/& x4  ,"h y w f9d all ! articles ( 
h\sehold use t are to be f\nd 9 ! he>t (
 ,mexico1 & t h be5 us$ = hundr$s ( ye>s
 despite ! progress ( civilization 9 o!r
 c\ntries4 ,y w f9d all ! /range foods &
 all ! inconsequ5tials t g to make ! sum
 ( ,mexican happ9ess1 & if y c get      
suffici5tly close 9 acqua9tance y w f9d 
t n only w !y talk freely to y1 b !y w  
tell y ?+s ab\t ,mexico t n ev5 ! heads 
( ! dep>tm5ts 9 ,wa%+ton are aw>e (4    

,p]haps y w\ld l to "k some?+ ab\t !    
b\rgeoise ,fr5*1 ^? :o h come f !       
peasant di/rict ( ! "m c\ntry4 ,g a     
little fur!r up ,broadway & y w beg9 to 
see ! signs *ang+ f ,spani% to ,fr5*1 & 
if y c und]/& !m y w "k t "h y w be giv5
 a d9n] = tw5ty-five c5ts on week days &
 = ?irty-five c5ts on ,sundays4 ,!      
diff]5ce is br\ght ab\t by ! diff]5ce   
betwe5 ! price ( *eap beef or mutton & !
 de>] *ick54  ,up 9 ! second /ory on a  
l>ge build+ y may see a sign t tells y  
meals w be s]v$ & rooms provid$4 ,"o (  
^! is ! r5dezv\s ( ,an>*i/s1 :o ga!r ea*
 ev5+ & discuss ! affairs ( ! _w1 & h[  
to regulate !m4 ,b !y are h>mless       
,an>*i/s 9 ,san ,francisco1 = "h !y h no
 wrongs to r$ress1 s !y sit & dr9k _!   
=bidd5 abs9!1 & dream _! dreams ( fire &
 sword1 :ile !y talk 9 :isp]s ( :at !y  
are go+ to d to ! cr[n$ heads ( ,europe4
 ,x is _! dream & we h no qu>rel ) x or 
!m4  ,b = real int]e/ "o mu/ get back to
 ! slope ( ,telegraph ,hill2 to ! /reets
 runn+ up f ,columbus av5ue1 until !y   

are s /eep t only goats & babies c play 
on !m ) safety4 ,at lea/ we suppose !   
babies are z active z ! goats = ! sides 
( ! hill are alive ) !m4  ,let u walk   
fir/ along ,grant av5ue & d a little    
w9d[ %opp+4 ,j be=e y turn (f ,broadway 
into ,grant av5ue1 aft] pass+ ! ,fior   
d',italia1 ! ,buon ,gu/o1 ! ,dante & ,il
 ,trovatore re/aurants1 we come to a mo/
 int]e/+ w9d[ :]e is display$ su* a     
v>iety ( sausages z to make "o wond] at 
! inv5tive g5ius :o ?\ght ( !m all4 ,z y
 wond] y peep timidly 9 ! door & !n walk
 9 f %e] amazem5t4 ,y n[ f9d y\rself    
surr\nd$ ) sausages1 f floor to ceil+1 &
 f side wall to side wall on bo? ceil+ &
 floor1 & su* sausage x is6  ,f /r+s s  
?9 z to appe> ab\t ! size ( a lady's    
little f+]1 to individual sausages z    
l>ge z ! ?igh ( a giant1 !y hang 9      
fe/oons1 crawl ov] beams1 lie along     
%elves1 decorate c\nt]s1 peep f boxes on
 ! floor1 & invite y to ta/e !m 9 !     
slices t lay on ! but*]'s block4 ,"o c  
well imag9e be+ 9 a cave ( fle%1 yet if 

y look closely y w discov] t sausage is 
b a "p ( ! /range edible ?+s to be _h   
"h4  ,"h are *eeses 9 wond]ful v>iety4  
,*eeses f ,italy t are made f goats'    
milk1 asses' milk1 c[s' milk & m>es'    
milk1 & also *eeses f ,spa91 ,mexico1   
,g]many1 ,switz]l&1 & all ! o!r c\ntries
 :]e !y make *eese1 ev5 includ+ ! ,unit$
 ,/ates4 ,^! *eeses are ( all sizes &   
all %apes1 f ! great1 r\nd1 flat *eese t
 we are accu/om$ to see 9 c\ntry groc]y 
/ores1 to ! que]-%ap$ caciocavallo1 :i* 
looks l an ,indian club & is eat5 )     
fruit4  ,!re are dri$ vegetables & dri$ 
fruits su* z 7 nev] dream$ ( 9 y\r      
limit$ exp]i5ce1 & ev5 ! groc] himself1 
! smil+ & cosmopolitan ,v]ga1 confesses 
t he does n "k ! names ( all ( !m4  ,z y
 g out into ! /reet y bl9k at !         
trans=mation1 = y h be5 ?\s&s ( miles   
away4 ,y ?9k t surely !re c be no?+ m4  
,wait a bit4 ,turn ! corn] & walk along 
,grant av5ue t[>d ! ,hill4 ,see1 "h is a
 w9d[ full ( bread4 ,look closely at x &
 y w notice t x is n l ! bread y are    

accu/om$ to4 ,c\nt ! diff]5t k9ds4      
,f\rte5 ( !m 9 all1 f ! long /icks (    
griss9i to ! great slid loaves weigh+ _m
 p\nds4 ,light bread1 heavy bread1 good 
bread1 s(t bread1 h>d bread1 delicate   
bread1 ea* hav+ its especial use1 & all 
satisfy+ to diff]5t appetites4  ,n[ g a 
little fur!r to ! corn]1 cross ! /reet &
 ent] ! /ore ( ! ,co/a ,bro!rs4 ,x is a 
big groc]y /ore & :ile y w n f9d !      
sausage & my/ify+ mass ( food products 9
 su* lavi% display & pr(us5ess1 z 9 !   
previ\s place1 if y look ar\nd y w f9d  
?is ev5 m int]e/+1 = x is on a diff]5t  
plane4 ,"h y f9d ! delicacies & !       
niceties ( ,italian liv+4 ,at fir/      
glance x looks z if y 7 9 any "o ( !    
,am]ican groc]y /ores ( d[n-t[n1 b a    
clos] exam9ation reveals ! fact t ^!    
cann$ goods & ^! boxes & j>s1 hold      
peculi> foods t y are unaccu/om$ to4    
,p]haps y w f9d a cl]k :o c speak good  
,engli%1 b if y _c ei!r ( ! ,co/a bro!rs
 w be glad to %[ y ! c\rtesy ( answ]+   
y\r que/ions4  ,turn ar\nd & look at !  

%elves fill$ ) bottles ( w9e4 ,n[ y feel
 t y are on safe gr\nd1 = y "k ab\t w9es
 & c talk ab\t ,cre/a ,blanca1 & ,mont  
,r\ge1 & ,a/i ,colony ,tipo ,*ianti4 ,b 
wait a m9ute4 ,"h are labels t y d n    
und]/& & w9es t y nev] ev5 he>d (4 ,"h  
are w9es ^: ta/e is s delici\s t y wond]
 :y x is ! :ole _w is n talk+ ab\t x &  
dr9k+ x4  ,"h are w9es f ! slopes (     
,aetna1 sp>kl+ & sweet4 ,"h are w9es f  
grapes gr[n on ! w>m slopes ( ,vesuvius1
 & br\ght to e>ly p]fection by !        
und]gr\nd fires4 ,"h are w9es f ! cold] 
slopes ( m\nta9s2 w9es f ,p>ma & f      
,sicily & ,pal]mo :]e ! w>m ,italian    
sun%9e has be5 ! ar*-*emi/ to br+       
p]fection to ! fruit ( ! v9e4 ,"h are   
/ill w9es & ^? t sp>kle4 ,"h ! fam$     
,lacrima ,*ri/i1 bo? spumanti & fresco1 
said to be ! f9e/ w9e made 9 all ,italy1
 & ! spumanti h ! unusual quality = an  
,italian w9e ( be+ dry4 ,b to tell y (  
all ! int]e/+ articles to be f\nd 9 ^!  
,italian1 & ,fr5* & ,mexican /ores1 w\ld
 be impossible1 = "s ( !m h n be5       

translat$ into ,engli%1 & ev5 !         
/orekeep]s w\ld be at a loss = words to 
expla9 !m4  ,?is is all a "p ( !        
,bohemianism ( ,san ,francisco1 & t is  
:y we are tell+ y ab\t x 9 a book t is  
suppos$ to be devot$ to ! ,bohemian     
re/aurants4 ,! fact is t ,san           
,francisco's ,bohemian re/aurants w\ld  
be f> less int]e/+ 7 x n = ! fact t !y c
 secure ! delicacies import$ by ^! =eign
 /orekeep]s to supply ! wants ( _! p4   
,b d n ?9k y h exhau/$ ! wond]s (       
,little ,italy :5 y h left ! /ores1 =   
!re is /ill m to see4 ,if y 7 ev] 9     
,pal]mo & w5t into ! little side /reets1
 y saw ! /r+s ( mac>oni1 spaghetti & o!r
 pa/es dry+ 9 ! sun :ile *ildr5 & dogs  
play$ ?r\gh & ar\nd x1 giv+ y su* a     
di/a/e = x t y h n eat5 any ,italian    
pa/e s9ce4  ,b 9 ,san ,francisco !y d   
?+s diff]5tly4 ,!re are a numb] ( pa/e  
factories1 all good & all clean4 ,take t
 ( ,p4 ,fior9i1 = in/ance1 at a po9t a  
%ort di/ance above ,co/a ,bro!rs4 ,y _c 
miss x = x has a picture ( ,fior9i      

himself z a sign1 & on x he tells y t if
 y eat 8 pa/e y w get to be z fat z he  
is4 ,g inside & y w f9d t ,fior9i c talk
 j en\gh ,engli% to make himself        
und]/ood1 :ile 8 good wife1 8 sole      
assi/ant1 c nei!r speak nor und]/& any b
 h] native ,italian4 ,b t does n bo!r h]
 9 ! lea/1 = %e c make signs1 & y c     
und]/& !m ev5 bett] ?an y und]/& !      
,engli% ( h] husb&4  ,"h y w see ! mak+ 
( raviolis by ! hundr$ at a "t4         
,tagli>9i1 tortil9i1 mac>oni1 spaghetti1
 capell9i1 p]catelli1 tagliatelli1 & all
 ! sev5ty & two o!r v>ieties4 ,! numb] (
 k9ds ( pa/e is mo/ a/oni%+1 & "o wond]s
 :y !re are s _m k9ds & :at is done )   
!m4 ,fior9i w tell y t ea* k9d has its  
di/9ctive use4 ,"s are = s\ps1 "s =     
sauces1 & all = special edibility4 ,!re 
are hundr$s ( recipes = cook+ ! v>i\s   
pa/es & ea* "o is said to be a little   
bett] ?an ! o!rs1 if y c imag9e su* a   
?+4  ,turn ano!r corn] aft] leav+       
,fior9i's & look d[n into a basem5t4 ,y 
d n h to g to ! c\ntry to see w9e mak+4 

,"h is "o ( ! primitive w9e presses (   
,italy1 & if y want to "k :y "s irrev]5t
 p call ! r$ w9e ( ! ,italians ,*ateau  
la ,feet1 y h b to wat* ! process ( its 
mak+ 9 ^! ,telegraph ,hill w9e h\ses4 ,!
 grapes are p\r$ into a big tub & a     
burly man takes (f 8 %oes & socks &     
emulates ! ox5 ( ,biblical times :5 x   
tread$ out ! gra94 ,( c\rse he wa%es 8  
feet be=e he gets into ! w9e tub4 ,b1 at
 t1 x is n a pleasant ?+ to contemplate4
 ,n[ y look ar\nd ) wid] & m            
compreh5sive eyes1 & n[ y beg9 to und]/&
 some?+ ab\t ^! /range =eign qu>t]s 9   
,san ,francisco4 ,z y look ar\nd y note 
ano!r ?+4 ,italian fecundity is app>5t  
ev]y:]e1 & ! f>!r up ! /eep slope ( !   
,hill y g ! m *ildr5 y see4 ,!y are     
ev]y:]e1 & ( all sizes & ages1 9 su*    
reckless pr(usion t y no long] wond] if 
! _w is to be depopulat$ ?r\gh ! com+ ( 
! fad ( ,eug5ics4 ,! ,italian "m has b  
two ?\ghts--h] ,god & h] *ildr51 & x is 
to c>e = h] *ildr5 t %e has br\ght f h] 
native l& ! k ( cook]y1 & ( ^? ?+s t    

help to put life & /r5g? 9 _! bodies4   
,an ,italian girl said to u "o day3     
,mama kn[s no?+ b cook+ & go+ to *ur*4  
,%e cooks f daylight until d>k1 & /ops  
cook+ only :5 %e is at *ur*4  ,x 0      
evid5t t h] dome/ic & religi\s duties   
dom9at$ h] life1 & %e knew b two ?+s--to
 please h] ,god & to c>e = h] family1 & 
)\t "q if occasion dem&$ ! pleasure ( h]
 family took prec$5ce4  ,san            
,francisco's ,lat9 qu>t] is appeal+1    
entic+ & hypnotiz+4 ,g !re & y w le>n :y
 ,san ,francisco is a bohemian city4 ,y 
w f9d out t s _m ?+s y h ?\ght important
 are really n at all wor? :ile4 ,g !re &
 y w f9d ! root ( ,bohemian re/aurants4 
,^! p h /udi$ ga/ronomy z a sci5ce1 & !y
 h imp>t$ _! k to ,san ,francisco1 ) !  
result t ! ,bohemian _s ent]s into our v
 lives1 & our m9ds are broad5$1 & our   
views ( life & our ideas h a wid] scope4
 ,x is because ( ?is condition1 born on 
! slopes ( ,telegraph ,hill1 t we are   
drawn out ( depress+ influ5ces1 out ( ! 
_s ( self-consci\sness1 & f9d a _w (    

pleasure1 innoc5t & educational1 !      
inspiration = :i* has be5 h&$ d[n ?r\gh 
g5]ations ( ,lat9a s9ce ! days ( e>ly   
,roman empire1 :i* inspiration is /ill a
 p[] = good because x takes p out (     
!mselves & places !m :]e !y c look )    
und]/&+ & speak ! language ( p]ception4 
,little ,italy's *>m has long be5       
recogniz$ by arti/s & writ]s1 & _m ( !m 
began _! c>e]s :i* l$ to fame & =tune 9 
little *eap rooms on ,telegraph ,hill4  
,"h h liv$ _m ^: names are n[ kn[n to   
fame1 & to "n !m w\ld be almo/ l a      
directory ( _w r5[n$ arti/s & writ]s4   
,"h is /ill ! memory ( ,bret ,h>te &    
,m>k ,twa94 ,"h is :]e ,kei? _h 8 e>ly  
/udio4 ,cad5asso1 ,m>t9ez1 & _m o!rs "k 
^! slopes & love !m4  ,to all ^! & _m m 
! ,lat9 ,qu>t] ( ,san ,francisco        
possess$ a *>m !y c\ld f9d n[h]e else1 &
 if "o desire to br+ a sadd5$ look to ! 
faces ( _m n[ liv+ else:]e x is b       
necess>y to talk ( ! good old days :5   
,bohemia 0 on ,telegraph ,hill 9 ,san   
,francisco4 ,"h !y _h _! domicile1 & "h 

!y =ega!r$ 9 ! little re/aurants1 ^:    
claims to m]it lay *iefly 9 ! fact t !y 
7 r>ely visit$ by o!r ?an ! ,italians ( 
! qu>t] & ^! ,bohemians :o liv$ !re4    
,"h 0 ! inspiration ( _m a good book &  
_m a fam\s picture ^: inception came f  
?\ghts t cry/alliz$ amid ^! surr\nd+s1 &
 "h _m a ne$y ,bohemian /ruggl$ ?r\gh ! 
lean days ) ! help ( ^! k9d-he>t$       
,lat9a4 ,"h !y1 ev5 z we1 7 taught      
some?+ ( ! art ( cook+4  ,( c\rse1 if "o
 desire to le>n v>i\s me?ods ( prep>+   
food1 x is necess>y to keep bo? eyes op5
 & to ask _m que/ions1 seek+ ! in=mation
 t sometimes comes f unlook$ = s\rces4  
,ev5 at t x is n always a good idea to  
take ev]y?+ = grant$ or to accept e     
sugge/ion1 = y may meet ) ! ,italian    
vegetable deal] :o is s eag] to please 8
 cu/om]s t he pret5ds a k he does n     
possess4 ,we discov]$ him "o day :5 he  
_h on display a vegetable t 0 /range to 
u4  ,h[ d y cook x8 0 our "q4  ,fry x4  
,!n 8 p>tn] %\t$ 8 laught] & d]ision4   
,oh1 he's "o f9e cook4 ,all ! "t he say 

'fry x4' ,"o day a lady %e come into da 
/ore an' %e see da big bucket ( ripe    
olives4 ,da lady %e f ! ,ea/ & %e nev]  
see olives l dat be=e4 ',h[ y cook x8'  
say da lady4 ',fry x1' say my p>tn]4    
,ev]y?+ he say fry x4  ,9 ano!r         
vegetable /& we f\nd an ,italian girl1  
^: s(t lisp+ acc5t pron\nc$ h] a        
,g5oese1 & %e1 diffid5tly sugge/$ a f9e 
,italian dess]t4  ,a ,f9e ,des]t  ,y    
take mac>oons & /rawb]ries4 ,put a lay] 
( mac>oons 9 a di% & !n a lay] (        
/rawb]ries1 cov] ^! ) sug>1 & !n ano!r  
lay] ( mac>oons & /rawb]ries & sug>     
until y h all y want4 ,ov] ^! p\r "s rum
 & set fire to x4 ,aft] x is burn$ out y
 h a f9e dess]t4  ,we b\ght ! mac>oons &
 /rawb]ries on ! way home & did n ev5   
wait = d9n] "t to try x4 ,we pron\nce x 
good4  ,x 0 made ! "r way & we advise y 
to try x1 = x is simple & leaves a mo/  
delici\s memory4    ,:]e ,fi% ,come ,9  
,x 0 v e>ly "o morn+4 ,s e>ly t "o ( u  
/r5u\sly pret5d$ sleep :ile ! o!r gave  
urg5t rem9d] t ?is 0 ! day we 7 to g to 

,fi%]m5's ,:>f4 ,daylight came e>ly & x 
0 j f\r o'clock :5 we began prep>ations4
 ,a cup ( hot c(fee :ile dress+ s]v$ to 
get u wide-awake1 & we 7 (f to see ! fi%
 come 94  ,fi%]m5's ,:>f lies ov] at    
,nor? ,bea*1 at ! end ( ,meiggs's ,:>f1 
:]e ! ,cu/oms ,(fic]s h _! /ation1 & to 
rea* x "o takes ei!r ! ,p[ell & ,nor?   
,bea* c>s1 or ! ,ke>ny & ,nor? ,bea*    
c>s1 & at ! end ( ei!r walks two blocks4
 ,:5 y get t f> anybody y see c tell y  
:]e to g4  ,fog mi/ 0 /eal+ along ! ,m>9
 %ore1 & hid+ ,gold5 ,gate :5 we arriv$1
 & ! rays ( ! sun took "s "t to make a  
cle> pa? out to sea4 ,out ( ! bank (    
:ite came glid+ ! heavy p[] boats ( !   
,sicilian & ,corsican fi%]m51 :ile f (f 
%ore 7 ! gho/ly late5 rigg$ boats ( ^?  
:o _h be5 fi%+ up ! ,sacram5to & ,san   
,joaqu9 riv]s1 _! y>ds aslant to cat* ! 
fa9t morn+ breeze4 ,z !y slipp$ ?r\gh ! 
lead5 wat] to _! moor+ at ! :>f we c\ld 
see ! decks & holds pil$ ) fi% & crabs4 
,roo/+ on piles1 & l9+ ! wat]'s edge on 
ev]y?+ t s]v$ to give foo?old1 7        

c\ntless seagulls1 all wait+ = !        
breakfa/ !y knew 0 com+ f ! disc>d$ fi%1
 & fit companions 7 ! wom5 ) %awls ov]  
_! heads irrev]5tly call$ mud h5s1 & old
 m5 9 dilapidat$ clo?+1 :o sat along !  
/r+]s ( ! :>f1 "s ) baskets1 "s )       
buckets & o!rs ) little pap] bags1 9 :i*
 to put ! fi% :i* !y c\ld get s *eaply x
 meant a meal = !m :5 o!rwise !y w\ld h 
to g )\t4 ,! e>li] boats 7 moor$ & on ! 
decks fires 7 burn+ 9 *>coal brazi]s1 on
 :i* ! fi%]m5 cook$ _! breakfa/s ( fi% &
 c(fee1 ) ! heavy black loaves ( bread =
 :i* !y seem to h special fancy4 ,z !   
odor ( ! cook+ fi% came up f ! wat] !   
wait+ gulls & m5 & wom5 mov$ a little   
clos]4  ,breakfa/ ov] ! fi%]m5 turn$ to 
! expectant cr[d & began tak+ notice ( !
 pitiful (f]+s ( co94 ,t9 buckets1      
newspap]s1 bags1 rags & ev5 scoop$ h&s 7
 held d[n1 ea* conta9+ su* co9 z ! own] 
possess$1 & 9 return came b\ntiful      
supply ( fi%4 ,a f9e1 fat crab = :i* y\r
 m>ket man w\ld *>ge y =ty c5ts 0 sold =
 t54 ,beautiful1 fre% s&-dabs1 b an h\r 

or two out ( ! wat]1 7 five c5ts a p\nd1
 :ile sea bass1 fre% cod1 mack]el1 &    
simil> fi% w5t at ! same price4 ,small  
fi%1 or :ite bait1 w5t by quantity1 t5  
c5ts secur+ ab\t half a gallon4 ,smelt1 
h]r+1 fl\nd]1 sole1 all w5t at equally  
l[ prices1 & z ea* buy] secur$ 8        
allotm5t he w5t hurry+ (f ?r\gh ! mi/1 z
 sil5tly z ! float+ gulls4 ,:5 ^! 7 all 
suppli$ ! re/ ( ! fi% & crabs 7 tak5 up 
to ! :>f & put on ! c\nt]s ( ! free     
m>ket1 :]e !y 7 sold at prices mo/      
tempt+4  ,%rimps1 alive & active1       
crayfi%1 clams1 squid & simil> sea food 
0 9 pr(usion & sold at prices on a p>ity
 ) t ( ! fi%4 ,z ! day wore on ! e>ly   
buy]s 7 replac$ by ^? :o knew ( ! free  
fi% m>ket & came to get good supplies = 
_! money4 ,"h 7 bo>d+-h\se keep]s1      
unmi/akable any:]e1 ,bohemians 9 h>d    
luck :o rememb]$ t !y c\ld get good food
 "h at a m9imum ( price1 & came n[ :ile 
on ! d[n turn ( ! :eel4 ,z a human      
int]e/ /udy x 0 bett] ?an a /udy ( fi%4 
,fi%]m5's ,:>f is :]e ! indep5d5t fi%]m5

 br+ _! cat*es to ,san ,francisco1 b x  
is n :]e ! city's great supply comes 94 
,to see t we _h to g along ! docks until
 we came to ! ,broadway :>f :]e         
,palad9i1 ! head ( ! fi% tru/1 unloads 8
 tugs ( _! tons & tons ( fi%4 ,x is n   
ne>ly s int]e/+ to look at1 b x gives a 
good idea ( :at comes out ( ! sea e day 
to supply ! ne$s ( ,san ,francisco & !  
surr\nd+ c\ntry4 ,^! tugs br+ 9 ! cat*es
 ( doz5s ( small] boats mann$ by fi%]m5 
:o are toil+ out beyond ! heads1 & up ! 
two great riv]s4 ,f f> out ar\nd !      
,f>allones1 f up ar\nd ! ,potato ,pat* )
 its m\rnful fog bell con/antly toll+1 f
 d[n ! coa/ z f> z ,mont]ey ,bay :]e fi%
 are 9 su* abundance t x is said !y h to
 give a signal :5 !y want to turn ar\nd1
 f up ! riv]s1 come fi% to ! man :o has 
gr[n f ! own] ( a small sail boat to be 
! p[] :o controls prices ( all ! fi% t g
 to ! m>kets ( ! city4  ,by ! "t we     
f9i%$ ) ,palad9i's fi% we felt ready =  
breakfa/ & took a c> d[n to ,davis &    
,pacific /reet :]e we f\nd ,bazzuro's   

s]v+ breakfa/ to doz5s ( m>ket g>d5]s :o
 _h f9i%$ _! unload+1 & !re1 :ile p>tak+
 ( ! fre% fi% we _h br\ght f ,fi%]m5's  
,:>f1 we saw ano!r phase ( ,san         
,francisco's e>ly morn+ life4 ,"h 7     
g>d5]s :o came 9 ! d>kness ( e>ly morn+ 
to supply huck/]s1 small trad]s & a few 
?rifty p :o knew ( ! *eapness1 & 9      
,columbo m>ket !y drove _! great wagons 
& dis*>g$ _! day's ga!r+ ( vegetables ( 
all k9ds4  ,b a few /eps away is ! great
 fruit m>ket ( ! e>ly morn+ & "h tons ( 
! f9e/ fruits are di/ribut$ to ! hundr$s
 ( wagons t cr[d ! /reet to su* an ext5t
 t x takes all ! +5uity ( exp]i5c$      
policem5 to keep cle>way = traffic4     
,?read+ _! way 9 & out betwe5 ! :eels & 
! heels ( horses1 7 m5 & wom51 all look+
 = b>ga9s 9 food4 ,amid a d9 almo/      
deaf5+ bus9ess 0 transact$ ) su* cel]ity
 t 9 ?ree h\rs ! /reets 7 cle>$1 fruits 
& vegetables sold & on _! way to di/ant 
/&s1 & ! tir$ policem5 lean+ aga9/      
fri5dly walls1 recup]at+ aft] ! /r5u\s  
"w ( keep+ ord] 9 *aos4  ,x is :5 "o    

goes to ^! places 9 ! morn+ & sees !    
*eapness ( ^! foods t he c und]/& 9 a   
small way :y x is t s _m ,italian       
re/aurants c give su* good meals = s    
little money4 ,"o wond]s at a table     
d'hote d9n] ( six or sev5 c\rses =      
tw5ty-five c5ts1 or ev5 = half a doll>1 
& "o accu/om$ to buy+ meats1 fi%1       
vegetables & fruits at ! exorbitant     
prices *>g$ at mo/ ( ! m>kets & fruit & 
vegetable /&s n[ sees :y ! ?rifty =eign]
 c make & save money :ile ! av]age      
,am]ican c h>dly keep m ?an two jumps   
ahead ( ! %]iff4    ,fi% 9 ,_! ,v>iety  
,probably ! mo/ frequ5t "q ask$ u by ^? 
:o come to ,san ,francisco is3 ,:]e c we
 get ! be/ fi%8 ,) ,san ,francisco's    
wond]ful natural advantages z a fi%     
m>ket "o is sometimes surpris$ t m      
att5tion is n giv5 to prep>+ fi% z a    
specialty4 ,b "o re/aurant 9 ! city     
deals exclusively ) sea food1 & ev5 !re 
"o is a/oni%$ at an ov]look$            
opportunity4  ,d>bee  ,immel h cat]$ to 
,san ,francisco 9 oy/]s = _m ye>s & aft]

 ! fire !y op5$ ! ,%ell ,fi% ,grotto1 9 
,o',f>rell /reet1 betwe5 ,p[ell & ,mason
 /reets1 & ?is is "o ( ! v few di/9ctive
 fi% re/aurants ( ! c\ntry4 ,x is :5 "o 
consid]s ! possibilities t a %ock comes 
f ! environ+ decorations4 ,:ite & gold  
pill>s1 ) tw9+ ivy rea*+ to ! old gold &
 rose mural & ceil+ embelli%m5ts seem   
out ( place 9 a re/aurant t is devot$   
entirely to cat]+ to lov]s ( fi%4 ,no?+ 
9 ! place indicates its "* except ! big 
lob/] 9 front ( ! build+4 ,n ev5 s mu* z
 a picture to br+ a s5tim5t ( ! ocean to
 ! m9d4  ,we are go+ to take a lib]ty1 &
 possibly ,d>bee  ,immel may call x an  
imp]t95ce1 & give !m a bit ( advice4 ,x 
co/s !m no?+ consequ5tly !y c act on x  
or n & x w make no diff]5ce4 ,?is is our
 sugge/ion3  ,*ange ! int]ior ( ! place 
entirely by hav+ ar\nd ! walls a s]ies (
 l>ge glass aqu>ia1 ) z _m diff]5t k9ds 
( fi% swimm+ ab\t z x is possible to    
get2 some?+ on ! ord] ( ! int]ior ( !   
aqu>ium 9 ,batt]y ,p>k 9 ,new ,york4    
,pa9t ! ceil+ to repres5t ! surface ( ! 

wat] z se5 f bel[4 ,h seawe$ & kelp 9   
place ( ivy1 & a fi% net or two caught  
up 9 ! corn]s ( ! room1 ) "h & !re a    
/>fi% or a crab--n too _m1 = pr(us5ess 9
 ?is sort ( decoration is an abom9ation4
 ,!n y w h a re/aurant t w be talk$ ab\t
 :]ev] p sit at meat4 ,b to get back to 
our talk ab\t fi%1 & :]e to get x prep>$
 & cook$ ! be/4 ,we mu/ say t ! f9e/ fi%
 we h eat5 9 ,san ,francisco 0 n 9 !    
high-pric$ re/aurants at all1 b 9 a     
little1 d+y back room1 d[n at ,fi%]m5's 
,:>f1 :]e !re 0 s& on ! floor & all !   
s\nds ( ! kit*5 7 audible 9 ! d9+ room4 
,! place 0 patroniz$ almo/ solely by !  
,italian fi%]m5 :o n only "k h[ to cat* 
a fi% b h[ x ought to be cook$4 ,"o may 
always re/ assur$ t :5 he gets a fi% 9  
"o ( ! ,italian re/aurants x is p]fectly
 fre%1 = !re are two ?+s t an ,italian  
dem&s 9 eat+1 & !y are fre% fi% & fre%  
vegetables4  ,at ! ,gi&uja at ,union &  
,/ockton /reets1 "o is c]ta9 to get fi% 
cook$ well & t x is p]fectly fre%4 ,!   
v>iety is n s good z at ! ,%ell ,fi%    

,grotto1 b o!rwise x is j z good 9 e    
respect4 ,at ! ,grotto !re is a wond]ful
 v>iety b ! quantity is at ! m9imum     
because !re1 too1 !y w h no fi% t has   
be5 tw5ty-f\r h\rs out ( ! wat]4  ,"o   
wond]s h[ a full c\rse d9n] entirely (  
fi% c be prep>$1 b if y w g to ! ,%ell  
,fi% ,grotto y w f9d t x is done1 & done
 well at t4 ,"h y c get a good d9n] = "o
 doll>1 or if y pref] x !y h a ,fi%     
,d9n] de ,luxe = :i* !y *>ge two doll>s4
 ,bo? are good1 ! latt] hav+ additional 
w9es & delicacies4  ,d[n 9 ,wa%+ton     
/reet1 j (f ,columbus av5ue1 is !       
,vesuvius1 an ,italian re/aurant ( l[   
price1 b excell5t cook+4 ,a specialty   
!re is fi% :i* is always br\ght fre% f !
 ne>by ,clay /reet m>ket z ord]$1       
consequ5tly is p]fect4 ,:5 y give y\r   
ord] a mess5g] is dispat*$ to ! m>ket & 
usually he br+s ! fi% alive & ! *ef     
prep>es x 9 "o ( 8 _m ways1 = he is said
 to h m secrets ab\t ! cook+ ( fi% ?an  
"o w\ld ?9k x possible = "o bra9 to     
conta94 ,! tr\ble ab\t ?is re/aurant is 

t ! re/ ( ! m5u does n come up to ! fi% 
/&>d1 b if y desire a simple lun*eon (  
fi% !re is no bett] place to get x4     
,!re are ?ree ?+s 9 :i* an ,ea/]n] w be 
disappo9t$ 9 ,san ,francisco1 & ^! are  
oy/]s4 ,pacific ,coa/ oy/]s fail 9 size1
 flavor & cook+1 :5 comp>$ ) ! lusci\s  
bivalve ( ! ,atlantic1 s f> z ! ord9>y  
=ms ( prep>ation is conc]n$4 ,ev5 fancy 
di%es1 su* z ,oy/]s ,kirkpatrick1 w\ld  
be bett] if made ( ! ea/]n oy/]1 n :at  
!y call ! ea/]n oy/] "h1 = t is a       
misnom]1 b ! oy/]s t gr[ 9 ! ,atlantic  
,ocean4  ,( ! ,pacific oy/]s ! be/ is ! 
,toke ,po9t1 t comes f ,oregon4 ,!y are 
simil> 9 size to ! ,blue ,po9t1 b lack !
 flavor4 ,:51 9 a ,san ,francisco       
re/aurant1 y are ask$ :at sort ( oy/] y 
w h1 & y see ! famili> names on ! m5u   
c>d1 rememb] t ^! are transplant$ oy/]s1
 & h lo/ mu* ( _! flavor 9 !            
transplant+1 or else !y are oy/]s t h   
be5 %ipp$ across ! cont95t & h !reby lo/
 _! fre%ness4  ,! ,cali=nia oy/] prop]1 
is v small1 & x has a peculi> copp]y    

ta/e1 :i* bon vivants decl>e adds to its
 piquancy4 ,in/ead ( ord]+ ^! by ! doz5 
y ord] !m by ! hundr$1 x be+ no         
difficult task to eat an hundr$ at a    
meal1 especially :5 prep>$ 9 a pepp]    
roa/4  ,ev]yone kn[s ! /aple ways (     
prep>+ oy/]s1 & e *ef looks ^u ! oy/] z 
! s\rce ( new flavors 9 _m di%es1 b to  
our m9d ! be/ way we h f\nd 9 ,san      
,francisco 0 at a little re/aurant d[n 9
 ,wa%+ton /reet be=e ! fire4 ,x 0 !     
,buon ,gu/o1 :]e !y s]v$ fi% & oy/]s    
bett] ?an any?+ else because ! own]s 7 !
 *efs1 & !y 7 f ! isl& ( ,catalan1 (f ! 
coa/ ( ,italy4 ,_! specialty 0 call$    
,oy/]s a la ,catalan1 & _! recipe1 :i*  
is giv51 c be prep>$ excell5tly 9 a *af+
 di%3  ,oy/]s a la ,catalan  ,take "o   
tablespoonful ( butt]1 two teaspoonfuls 
grat$ ,edam or ,p>mesan *eese1 f\r      
tablespoonfuls catsup1 "o-half          
teaspoonful ,worce/]%ire sauce1 two     
tablespoonfuls cream1 meat ( "o         
good-siz$ crab cut f9e & two doz5 oy/]s4
 ,put ! *eese & butt] into a d\ble boil]

 & :5 melt$ smoo? add ! catsup &        
,worce/]%ire sauce4 ,mix well & add !   
cream & !n ! crab meat4 ,:5 creamy &    
boil+ hot drop 9 ! oy/]s4 ,z soon z !   
oy/]s are cr9kl$ s]ve on hot butt]$ toa/
 on hot plates4  ,9 ! days be=e ! fire  
:5 y w5t to a re/aurant & ord]$ fi% or  
oy/]s ! wait] inv>iably put be=e y ei!r 
a plate ( crab salad or a di% ( %rimps1 
) :i* y 7 suppos$ to amuse y\rself :ile 
! meal 0 be+ prep>$4 ,%rimps & crabs 7  
!n s pl5tiful t _! price 0 nev]         
consid]$4 ,"u our new conditions ^!     
always appe> on ! bill :5 ord]$1 & if !y
 be n ord]$ !y d n appe> = !y n[ are    
made to increase ! income4  ,to !       
un9itiat$ visitor ! %rimps s s]v$ 7     
always some?+ ( a my/]y1 & aft] a few   
futile ef=ts to get at ! meat !y g5]ally
 gave x up z too mu* "w = ! little good 
d]iv$4 ,! ,old ,tim]1 h[ev]1 crack$ !   
%rimp's neck1 p9*$ its tail1 & out popp$
 a delici\s bonne b\*e :i* add$ to ! joy
 ( ! meal & increas$ ! appetite4 ,b !re 
are _m o!r ways ( s]v+ %rimps1 & !y are 

also mu* us$ to give flavor to c]ta9 fi%
 sauces4 ,"o ( ! mo/ delici\s ways (    
prep>+ %rimp is :at is kn[n z ,%rimp    
,creole1 a la ,anto9e1 s nam$ aft] !    
fam\s ,new ,orleans ,anto9e by a *ef 9  
,san ,francisco :o _h reg>d = ! ,new    
,orleans cat]]4 ,we d\bt if x c be _h   
any:]e 9 ,san ,francisco n[ unless y are
 well en\gh kn[n to h x prep>$ accord+  
to ! recipe4 ,?is recipe1 by ! way1 is a
 good "o to use 9 a *af+ di% supp]4 ,?is
 is ! way x 0 prep>$ at ! old ,pup      
re/aurant1 "o ( ! not$ re/aurants be=e !
 fire & e>?quake *ang$ conditions3      
,%rimp ,creole  ,take ?ree p9ts (       
un%ell$ %rimps & %ell !m1 "o-half p9t ( 
cream1 two tablespoonfuls ( butt]1 two  
tablespoonfuls ( fl\r1 two              
tablespoonfuls ( catsup1 "o w9e glass ( 
%]ry1 paprika1 *ili p[d] & p>sley4 ,br[n
 ! fl\r 9 ! butt] & add ! milk until x  
is ?ick5$4 ,color ) ! catsup & season ) 
paprika & *ili p[d]4 ,/ir 9 ! %]ry &    
make a p9k cream :i* is to be mix$ ?r\gh
 ! %rimps & n cook$4 ,spr9kle ) *opp$   

p>sley & s]ve ) squ>es ( toa/ or        
crack]s4    ,lob/]s & ,lob/]s  ,:5 is a 
lob/] n a lob/]8 ,:5 x is a crayfi%4    
,?is "q & answ] might well g into !     
prim] ( in=mation = ^? :o come to ,san  
,francisco f ! ,ea/1 = :at is call$ a   
lob/] 9 ,san ,francisco is n a lob/] at 
all b a crayfi%4 ,! true lob/] is n f\nd
 9 ! ,pacific along ! ,cali=nia coa/1 & 
s f> ef=ts at transplant+ h n be5       
successful4 ,! ,pacific crayfi%1 h[ev]1 
s]ves e purpose1 & :ile _m cont5d t its 
meat is n s delicate 9 flavor z t ( its 
ea/]n c\s91 ! ,cali=nian w z /r5u\sly   
insi/ t x is bett]1 b1 ( c\rse1 some?+  
mu/ always be all[$ = ! patriotism ( !  
,cali=nian4  ,lob/]1 s]v$ cold )        
mayonnaise1 or broil$ live lob/] are mo/
 frequ5tly call$ =1 & :ile !y are bo?   
excell5t1 we f9d s _m o!r ways ( prep>+ 
?is cru/acean t we r>ely take ! common  
v>iety ( lob/] di%es into consid]ation4 
,probably n[h]e 9 ,san ,francisco c\ld  
"o get lob/] bett] s]v$ ?an 9 ! ,old    
,delmonico re/aurant ( ! days be=e !    

fire4 ,a book c\ld be writt5 ab\t ?is   
re/aurant & !n all w\ld n be told = all 
its secrets c nev] be kn[n4  ,9 ,new    
,york ,city !y h :at !y are pleas$ to   
call ,lob/] ,palaces1 b !re is n a      
re/aurant 9 t great metropolis t c\ld   
approa* ! ,delmonico ( ,san ,francisco 9
 its spl5did s]vice & its cuis9e        
arrangem5ts2 nei!r c\ld !y approa* !    
romance t always surr\nd$ ! ,o',f>rell  
/reet re/aurant4 ,x 0 "h t mo/          
magnific5t d9n]s 7 arrang$2 x 0 "h t    
extraord9>y di%es 7 concoct$ by *efs (  
_w-wide fame2 x 0 "h t ,lob/] a la      
,newb]g rea*$ its highe/ p]fection1 &   
?is is ! recipe t 0 foll[$ :5 x 0 prep>$
 9 ! ,delmonico3  ,lob/] a la ,newb]g   
,"o p\nd ( lob/] meat1 "o teaspoonful ( 
butt]1 "o-half p9t ( cream1 yolks ( f\r 
eggs1 "o w9e glass ( %]ry1 lob/] fat4   
,?ree h\rs be=e cook+ p\r ! %]ry ov] !  
lob/] meat & let x /& until ready to    
cook4 ,heat ! butt] & /ir 9 ) ! lob/] & 
w9e1 !n place ?is 9 a /ewpan1 or *af+   
di%1 & cook = eight m9utes4 ,h ! yolks (

 eggs well beat5 & add to !m ! cream &  
lob/] fat1 /ir well & !n /ir 9 a        
teaspoonful ( fl\r4 ,put ?is 9 a d\ble  
boil] & let cook until ?ick1 /irr+      
con/antly4 ,:5 ?is is cook$ p\r x ov] ! 
lob/] & let all cook toge!r = ?ree      
m9utes4 ,s]ve 9 a *af+ di% ) ?9 slices (
 dry toa/4    ,k+ ( ,%ell ,fi%  ,"o has 
to come to ,san ,francisco to p>take ( !
 k+ ( %ell fi%--! mammo? ,pacific crab4 
,i say come to ,san ,francisco advis$ly1
 = :ile ! crab is f\nd all along ! coa/ 
x is prep>$ n[h]e s delici\sly z 9 ,san 
,francisco4 ,( c\rse our fri5ds 9       
,portl& w take exception to ?is1 b !    
fact rema9s t n[h]e except 9 ,san       
,francisco h s _m re/aurants become     
fam\s because ( ! way !y prep>e ! crab4 
,! ,pacific crab is peculi>1 & :ile x   
has n ! gigantic claws su* z are to be  
se5 on ^? 9 ! ,p>isian & ,london m>kets1
 its meat is mu* m delicate 9 flavor1 & 
! di%es ( crab prep>$ by arti/s ( !     
ga/ronomic pr(ession 9 ,san ,francisco  
are m savory ?an ^? f\nd else:]e4  ,9 ! 

pre-fire days !re 7 _m places :i* paid  
especial att5tion to ! cook+ ( ! crab1  
among !m be+ ! ,cobweb ,palace1         
previ\sly m5tion$1 & ,gobey's4 ,gobey   
ran "o ( ^? places :i* 0 n 9 good       
repute1 consequ5tly :5 ladies w5t !re !y
 7 usually veil$ & slipp$ 9 ?r\gh an    
alley1 b ! enticem5t ( ,gobey's crab /ew
 0 too mu* = conv5tionality & 8 little  
private rooms 7 always full4  ,gobey's  
pass$ ) ! fire1 & ! little re/aurant    
be>+ 8 "n1 & 9 *>ge ( 8 wid[1 9 ,union  
,squ>e av5ue1 has n atta9$ ! fame ( !   
old place4 ,x is possible t %e kn[s !   
secret ( prep>+ crab z x 0 prep>$ 9 !   
,gobey's ( be=e ! fire1 b 8 pre/ige did 
n desc5d to h]4  ,almo/ all ( ! ,italian
 re/aurants w give y crab 9 _m =ms1 &   
all ( !m are good2 _m re/aurants use    
crab meat = flavor+ o!r1 di%es1 b ( all 
! recipes = cook+ crab we h f\nd none t 
we consid] s good z t ( ,gobey's4 ,x is 
z foll[s3  ,gobey's ,crab ,/ew  ,take ! 
meat ( "o l>ge crab1 scrap+ out all ( ! 
fat f ! %ell4 ,"o good-siz$ onion1 "o   

tomato1 "o sweet pepp]1 "o teaspoonful (
 butt]1 "o teaspoonful ( fl\r1 half a   
glass ( %]ry1 a p9* ( rosem>y1 "o clove 
( g>lic1 paprika1 salt & m9ionette      
pepp]4 ,soak ! crab meat 9 ! %]ry two   
h\rs be=e cook+4 ,*op f9e ! onion1 sweet
 pepp] & tomato ) ! rosem>y4 ,ma% !     
clove ( g>lic1 rubb+ ?or\ghly 9 a mort> 
& on ?is put ! butt] & fl\r1 mix+ well  
toge!r1 & gradually add+ ! salt &       
m9ionette pepp]1 & /ir 9 two            
tablespoonfuls ( cream4 ,heat ?is 9 a   
/ewpan & :5 simm]+ add ! %]ry & crab    
meat & let all cook toge!r ) a sl[ fire 
= eight m9utes4 ,s]ve 9 a *af+ di% )    
toa/$ crack]s or ?9 slices ( toa/$      
bread4 ,a da% ( ,worce/]%ire sauce j    
be=e x is tak5 up adds to ! flavor4     
,lob/] 9 ,m9iature  ,crawfi%1 or        
ecravisse1 has nev] be5 v popul> 9 ,san 
,francisco1 probably because !re are s  
_m o!r delicate cru/aceans t are m      
easily h&l$1 yet ! crawfi% gr[s to      
p]fection 9 ,pacific wat]s1 &           
importation's ( !m f ,portl&1 ,oregon1  

are becom+ q an indu/ry4 ,s f> x has be5
 us$ mo/ly = g>ni%m5t ( o!r di%es1 & x  
is only rec5tly t ! ,h( ,brau has be5   
mak+ a specialty ( !m4 ,all ( ! bett]   
class re/aurants1 h[ev]1 w s]ve !m if y 
ord] !m4  ,! full flavor ( ! crawfi% is 
be/ obta9$ 9 a bisque1 & ! be/ recipe = 
?is is by ! fam\s *ef ,francatelli1 :o  
boa/s hav+ be5 ! head ( ! cuis9e ( ,que5
 ,victoria4 ,8 recipe is long1 & its    
prep>ation requires mu* pati5ce1 b !    
result is su* a ga/ronomic m>vel t "o   
nev] regrets ! "t sp5t 9 its            
accompli%m5t4 ,?is is ! recipe = eight  
p1 & x is well wor? try+ if y are giv+ a
 d9n] ( importance3  ,bisque ( ,crawfi% 
,take ?irty crawfi%1 f :i* remove ! gut 
conta9+ ! gall 9 ! foll[+ mann]3 ,take  
firm hold ( ! crawfi% ) ! left h& s z to
 avoid be+ p9*$ by its claws2 ) ! ?umb &
 =ef+] ( ! "r h& p9* ! extreme end ( !  
c5tral f9 ( ! tail1 &1 ) a sudd5 j]k1 ! 
gut w be )drawn4  ,m9ce or cut into     
small dice a c>rot1 an onion1 "o head ( 
cel]y & a few p>sley roots1 & to ^! add 

a bay leaf1 a sprig ( ?yme1 a little    
m9ionette pepp] & two ounces ( butt]4   
,put ^! +r$i5ts into a /ewpan & fry !m  
t5 m9utes1 !n ?r[ 9 ! crawfi% & p\r on  
!m half a bottle ( ,fr5* :ite w9e4 ,all[
 ?is to boil & !n add a qu>t ( /rong    
consomme & let all cont9ue boil+ = half 
an h\r4 ,pick out ! crawfi% & /ra9 !    
bro? ?r\gh a napk9 by pressure into a   
bas9 9 ord] to extract all ! ess5ce f ! 
vegetables4  ,pick ! %ells (f tw5ty-five
 ( ! crawfi% tails1 trim !m neatly & set
 !m aside until want$4 ,res]ve "s ( !   
spawn1 also half ( ! body %ells ) :i* to
 make ! crawfi% butt] to f9i% ! s\p4    
,?is butt] is made z foll[s3 ,place !   
%ells on a bak+ %eet 9 ! ov5 to dry2 let
 ! %ells cool & !n p\nd !m 9 a mort> ) a
 little lob/] coral & f\r ounces ( fre% 
butt]1 ?or\ghly bruis+ ! :ole toge!r s z
 to make a f9e pa/e4 ,put ?is 9 a /ewpan
 & set x ov] a sl[ fire to simm] = ab\t 
five m9utes1 !n rub x ?r\gh a sieve )   
consid]able pressure into a bas9 conta9+
 ice wat]4 ,z soon z ! color$ crawfi%   

butt] is become firmly set1 ?r\gh !     
coldness ( ! wat]1 take x out & put x   
into a small bas9 & set 9 ! refrig]ator 
until want$4  ,rev]t+ to ! orig9al      
recipe3 ,take ! rema9d] ( ! crawfi% &   
add !reto ?ree an*ovies1 wa%$ = !       
purpose1 & also ! cru/s ( ,fr5* rolls1  
fri$ to a light br[n color 9 butt]4     
,p\nd all ^! ?or\ghly toge!r & !n put !m
 into a /ewpan ) ! bro? t has be5 res]v$
 9 a bas91 & hav+ w>m$ ! bisque ?us     
prep>$ rub x ?r\gh a sieve into a f9e   
puree4 ,put ?is puree into a s\p pot &  
f9i% by incorporat+ !re) ! crawfi% butt]
 & season ) a little cay5ne pepp] & !   
juice ( half a lemon4 ,p\r ! bisque q   
hot into ! ture5 9 :i* h be5 plac$ !    
crawfi% tails1 & s5d to ! table4  ,?is  
is n s difficult z x appe>s :5 y are    
read+ x & if y wi% to h some?+ extra f9e
 take ! necess>y "t & pati5ce & prep>e  
x4    ,clams & ,abalone's  ,we _c       
dispose ( ! %ell fi% ( ,san ,francisco  
)\t a ^w or two ab\t clams1 = c]ta9ly   
!re is no place :]e !y are 9 great]     

v>iety & bett] flavor4 ,9 fact ! clam is
 ! only bivalve ( ?is "p ( ! coa/ t has 
a di/9ctive & good flavor4 ,sev]al      
v>ieties are to be f\nd 9 ! m>kets1 !   
be/ & r>e/ be+ ! little rock clams t    
come f ar\nd ,drake's ,bay1 j above !   
entrance to ,gold5 ,gate4 ,^! are mo/   
delici\s 9 flavor & %\ld nev] be eat5   
o!rwise ?an raw4 ,! s&1 or h>d %ell1 or 
z !y are sometimes call$ little necks1  
are next 9 *oic5ess1 & !n come ! ,pismo 
bea* clams1 not$ = _! flavor & enorm\s  
size4 ,! mud clam is good = *[d] b n s  
good z ei!r ( ! o!r v>ieties m5tion$4   
,! ,bohemian way to h y\r clams is to g 
to ! %ore ( ,bol9as ,bay or "s o!r      
equally retir$ spot1 & h a clam bake1 or
 else take a pot along ) ! o!r +r$i5ts &
 h a good clam *[d]4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 may be
 prep>$ at any "t & is always a good    
meal4  ,clam fritt]s :5 prep>$ accord+  
to ! recipe giv5 h]e91 is "o ( ! be/    
me?ods ( prep>+ ! clam1 & x has !       
peculi>ity ( be+ s ta/y t "o feels t !re
 is nev] en\gh cook$4  ,( all ! ways (  

cook+ clams *[d] takes prec$5ce z a     
rule1 & x is good :5 made prop]ly4 ,by t
 we d n mean ! ?91 wat]y /uff t is s]v$ 
9 mo/ ( ! re/aurants & call$ clam *[d] j
 because x happ5s to be made e ,friday4 
,t is fairly good z a clam s\p b x is no
 m *[d] ?an a ,mexican s\p approa*es a  
crawfi% bisque4 ,!re is b "o "r way to  
make clam *[d]1 & t is ei!r to make x   
y\rself or closely sup]9t5d ! mak+1 &   
?is is ! way to make x3  ,clam ,*[d]    
,take "o qu>t ( %ell$ s& clams1 two l>ge
 potatoes1 two l>ge onions1 "o clove (  
g>lic1 "o sweet pepp]1 "o ?ick slice (  
salt pork1 "o-half p\nd small oy/]      
crack]s1 "o-half glass %]ry1 "o         
tablespoonful ,worce/]%ire sauce1 "o    
tomato1 salt1 & pepp]4 ,9 a l>ge /ewpan 
place ! salt pork cut into small dice1 &
 let ?is fry slightly ov] a sl[ fire    
until ! bottom ( ! /ewpan is well       
greas$4 ,take ?is (f ! fire & put 9 a   
lay] ( potatoes slic$ ?91 on top ( !    
salt pork1 !n a lay] ( onions slic$ ?91 
& a lay] ( clams4 ,put on ?is salt &    

pepp] & spr9kle ) a little fl\r & !n a  
lay] ( crack]s4 ,*op ! sweet pepp] &    
tomato f9e & mix ) !m ! bruis$ & ma%$   
g>lic4 ,on top ( ea* succession ( lay]s 
put a little ( ! mixture4 ,cont9ue mak+ 
^! lay]s until all ! +r$i5ts are plac$ 9
 ! /ewpan1 & !n p\r on ! top suffici5t  
wat] to j %[4 ,cov] tightly & let cook  
g5tly = half an h\r4 ,p\r on !          
,worce/]%ire sauce & %]ry j be=e s]v+4  
,d n /ir ?is :ile cook+1 & 9 ord] to    
prev5t its burn+ x %\ld be cook$ ov] an 
asbe/os cov]4  ,:5 done ?is %\ld be ?ick
 en\gh to be eat5 ) a =k4  ,among ! good
 ,bohemians :o liv$ 9 ,san ,francisco z 
a *ild :5 x 0 9 ! po/-pione] days1 & :o 
has enjoy$ ! good ?+s ( all ! fam\s     
re/aurants is ,mrs4 ,emma ,/]ett1 :o has
 giv5 u ! foll[+ recipe = clam fritt]s  
:i* we consid] ! mo/ delici\s ( all we h
 ev] eat51 & :5 y try !m y w agree ) u3 
,clam ,fritt]s  ,take two doz5 clams1   
wa%$ ?or\ghly & dra9$4 ,put 9 *opp+ b[l 
& *op1 n too f9e4 ,add to ^! "o clove ( 
g>lic ma%$1 "o m$ium-siz$ onion *opp$   

f9e1 add bread crumbs suffici5t to /iff5
 ! mass1 *opp$ p>sley1 cel]y & h]bs to  
ta/e4 ,beat two eggs sep>ately & add to 
! clams4 ,if too /iff to drop f a spoon 
add ! /ra9$ liquor ( clams4 ,drop       
tablespoonfuls ( ?is mixture into hot   
fat1 turn & cook = suffici5t "t to cook 
?r\gh1 !n dra9 on br[n pap] & s]ve4     
,abalone's are a univalve t has be5 mu* 
9 vogue among ! ,*9ese b has seldom f\nd
 place on ! tables ( re/aurants ow+ to !
 difficulty 9 prep>+ !m1 z !y are t\gh &
 insipid "u ord9>y circum/ances4 ,:5    
made t5d] ei!r by ! ,*9ese me?od (      
p\nd+1 or by /eep+ 9 v9eg>1 !y s]ve !   
purpose ( clams b h n ! f9e flavor4 ,!  
,h( ,brau re/aurant is n[ mak+ a        
specialty ( abalone's1 b x takes s5tim5t
 to say t "o really f9ds any?+ extra    
good 9 !m4  ,ano!r %ell fi% mu* 9 vogue 
among ! ,italian re/aurants is mussels1 
:i* are f\nd to p]fection along ! coa/4 
,^! are usually s]v$ ,bordelaise1 & make
 q a pleasant *ange :5 "o is surfeit$ ) 
o!r %ell fi%1 b ! be/ recipe is3        

,mussels ,m>9i]e  ,?or\ghly clean !     
mussels & !n put !m 9 a deep pan & p\r  
ov] !m half a glass ( :ite w9e4 ,*op an 
onion1 a clove ( g>lic & "s p>sley f9e &
 put 9 ! pan1 toge!r ) a tablespoonful (
 butt]4 ,let ^! boil v quick = twelve   
m9utes1 keep+ ! pan tightly cov]$4 ,take
 (f half %ells & place ! mussels 9 a    
*af+ di% & p\r ov] !m ,be*amel sauce &  
!n add suffici5t milk gravy to cov]4    
,s]ve hot f *af+ di%4    ,:]e ,fi%      
,ab\nd  ,accord+ to ,david ,/>r ,jordan1
 ackn[l$g$ _w au?ority on fi%1 !re is   
great] v>iety ( fi% 9 ,mont]ey ,bay ?an 
any:]e else 9 ! _w4 ,mont]ey ,bay is "o 
( ,san ,francisco's s\rces ( supply     
consequ5tly we h a great] v>iety ( fi% 9
 our m>kets ?an are to be f\nd any:]e   
else4 ,9 ! m>kets are fi% f all p>ts ( !
 ,pacific ,ocean1 f ! ,tropics to f>    
nor? 9 ! ,arctics1 :ile d5iz5s ( ! wat]s
 all ! way1 betwe5 add to ! v>iety4  ,! 
ess5tial elem5t ( goodness 9 fi% is     
fre%ness1 & x is always fre% 9 ,san     
,francisco m>kets1 & also 9 !           

re/aurants4 ,( all v>ieties two rank    
fir/ 9 ! e/imation ( g\rmets1 b1 (      
c\rse1 t is purely a matt] ( individual 
ta/e4 ,accord+ to ! above-m5tion$       
au?ority1 ! f9e/ fi% t swims is !       
s&-dab4 ,"s g\rmets1 h[ev]1 w take issue
 ) him on ?is & say ! pompano is bett]4 
,o!rs w pref] ! m\nta9 tr\t4 ,be t z x  
may !y all are good1 ) _m o!rs foll[+   
close 9 *oice4  ,f9e /rip$ bass f !     
ocean1 or black bass f ! fre% wat] takes
 high place 9 pref]5ce4 ,!n !re is sole1
 bo? 9 ! fillet & ,rex1 z prep>$ at     
,jule's "u ! ,monadnock build+4 ,tom    
cod1 rock cod1 fre% mack]el & fre% cod1 
:ite bait & bon$ smelt all are excell5t 
fi%1 b 7 we to attempt to tell ( all !  
fi% to be f\nd "h we w\ld h to reproduce
 a piscatorial directory4 ,!re are two  
good me?ods ( acquir+ k ( ! fi% ( ,san  
,francisco4 ,g to ! :>ves & see !m come 
& & g to ! :olesale m>kets d[n 9 ,clay  
/reet1 bel[ ,montgom]y4 ,y w !n beg9 to 
realize t we c]ta9ly d h a v>iety ( good
 fi%4  ,n[ = a little ,bohemianism ( a  

diff]5t sort3 ,rec5tly !re came to ,san 
,francisco1 ) 8 wife1 an actor ^: "n us$
 to be almo/ a h\sehold ^w among        
!at]-go]s1 & :5 we say ! villa9 /ill    
pursu$ h]1 all y old tim]s w "k :om we  
mean4 ,:5 he 0 "h 9 ! ye>s long gone by 
x 0 8 cu/om to g to ! old ,cali=nia     
m>ket1 select :at he desir$ to eat1 !n  
take x to ! re/aurant & h x cook$1 & !  
old atmosph]e came back to him on 8     
rec5t arrival & he reviv$ ! old cu/om4  
,meet u at ! ,cali=nia m>ket1 0 !       
telephone message t came to u1 & we 7   
!re1 = we knew t some?+ good 0 9 /ore = 
u4  ,fir/ we w5t ?r\gh ! m>ket f end to 
end & all ! side aisles1 spy+ out ! l&4 
,x is n possible to enum]ate :at we saw4
 ,if y want to "k g !re & see =         
y\rselves4 ,hav+ se5 we 7 told to g &   
select :at we wi%$ to h = our d9n]1 & !n
 ! selection began & !re 0 a fea/ ( buy+
 fi%1 meats1 vegetables & delicacies (  
all sorts1 ev5 to ,fr5* pa/ry4  ,our    
pur*ases 7 ord]$ s5t to ! re/aurant 9 ! 
corn] ( ! m>ket :]e ! *ef _h already be5

 duly se51 & !n came ea* p>ticul> idea z
 to h[ ! food 0 to be cook$4 ,we _h     
s&-dabs muni]1 *ateaubri& ) mu%rooms1   
,italian squa%1 fri$ 9 oil ) a flavor ( 
g>lic1 ,fr5* pa/ry1 & c(fee1 toge!r ) "s
 good ,cali=nia ,tipo ,*ianti1 all      
flavor$ ) su* a /ream ( rem9isc5ce t we 
=got t su* ?+s z clocks exi/$4  ,x 0 !  
fir/ "t our !atrical fri5ds _h ta/$     
s&-dabs1 = ?is fi% has come to ,san     
,francisco m>kets only 9 rec5t ye>s1 &  
!y decl>$ t x 0 ! only fi% fit to be    
eat54 ,x is possible t !y 7 prejudic$ by
 ! s5tim5t ( ! surr\nd+s & consequ5tly n
 exactly 9 position to be good judges4  
,all ,italian re/aurants s]ve fi% well4 
,at ! ,new ,buon ,gu/o y w f9d a mo/    
excell5t cipp9o ) pol5ti1 & if y h n    
exp]i5c$ ?is we advise y to try x z soon
 z possible4 ,at ! ,gi&uja y w f9d      
s&-dabs au grat9 to be v f9e4 ,at       
,jack's1 /rip$ bass cook$ 9 w9e is :at  
we ?9k ! be/ ( ! fi% to be f\nd 9 !     
m>ket1 or at ! re/aurants1 cook$ t way4 
,jule's is fam\s = 8 ,rex sole4 ,at all 

( ! ,fr5* & ,italian re/aurants small   
fry is cook$ to p]fection4 ,if y wi% fi%
 9 any way or ( any k9d y w make no     
mi/ake 9 ask+ = x at any ( ! ,fr5* or   
,italian re/aurants1 or at ! ,%ell ,fi% 
,grotto1 & if y are 9 d\bt reg>d+ :at to
 ord] j take ! proprietor into y\r      
confid5ce1 tell him y are a /rang] 9 !  
city & ask him to s]ve y fi% ! be/ way  
he prep>es x4 ,y w n be disappo9t$4     
,"s ,food ,v>iants  ,v>iants ( food     
prep>ation sometimes typify             
nationalities bett] ev5 ?an v>iants (   
language or clo?+4 ,take ! l[ly corn    
meal1 = in/ance4 ,we f9d t ,italian     
pol5ti1 ,spani% tamale1 ,philadelphia   
scrapple & ,s\!rn ,d>key crackl+ corn   
bread are b v>iants ( ! prep>ation (    
corn meal 9 delectable foods4 ,x is a   
long /ep f pla9 corn meal mu% to        
scrapple1 :i* we consid] ! highe/ & be/ 
=m ( prep>+ ?is sort ( di%1 b all !     
int]m$iate /eps come f a desire to      
please ! ta/e ) a *ange f simple corn   
meal4 ,crackl+ corn bread is ! fir/ /ep1

 & "h we f9d t ! d>kies ( ! ,s\? f\nd   
good use = ! remnants ( ! pork aft] l>d 
0 tri$ out at hog-kill+ "t1 by mix+ !   
crackl+s ) _! corn meal & mak+ a pone   
:i* !y cook$ be=e an op5 fire on a hoe  
blade1 ! fir/ ( ?is be+ call$ crackl9'  
hoe cake4  ,good scrapple is "o ( ! f9e/
 breakfa/ di%es t we "k dur+ ! w9t]1 &  
:5 prep>$ aft] ! recipe giv5 "h x       
prec$es all o!r =ms ( s]v+ corn meal4   
,to mix x prop]ly "o mu/ "k ! prop]     
values ( h]bs & condim5ts1 & ?is recipe 
is ! result ( mu* discrim9at+ /udy4     
,mode/y prev5ts u giv+ x m ?an ! "n (   
scrapple4 ,x is prep>$ 9 ! foll[+ mann]1
 diff]+ f t made 9 ,philadelphia3       
,scrapple  ,take a "y pig's head & boil 
x until ! fle% drops f ! bones1 9 wat]  
to :i* has be5 add$ two good-siz$       
onions1 qu>t]$1 five bruis$ cloves (    
g>lic1 "o bay leaf1 sweet m>joram1 ?yme1
 rosem>y1 a little sage1 salt1 & pepp]4 
,sep>ate ! meat f ! bones & *op f9e4    
,/ra9 (f ! liquor & boil ) corn meal1   
add+ ! *opp$ meat4 ,put 9 ! corn meal   

gradually1 until x makes a /iff mu%1 !n 
cook = half an h\r ) ! meat4 ,put 9     
%all[ pans & let cool4 ,to s]ve slice   
ab\t half an in* ?ick & fry 9 olive oil 
or butt] to a light br[n4  ,z orig9ally 
prep>$ ! tamale 0 made = conveyance1    
h5ce ! wrapp+s ( corn husk4 ,?is is a   
,spani% di%1 hav+ be5 br\ght to ?is     
c\ntry by ! e>ly ,spani% explor]s1 &    
adopt$ by ! ,indian tribes ) :om !y came
 9 contact4 ,9 ! g5u9e tamale ! int]ior 
is ! sauce & meat t goes ) ! corn meal  
:i* is alt]nately laid ) ! husks1 & :5  
made ! ends are ti$ ) f9e husk4 ,= meat1
 *ick51 pork1 & veal are consid]$ ! be/4
 ,!re is also a sweet tamale1 made )    
rais9s or pres]ves4  ,! foll[+ recipe = 
tamales 0 giv5 u by ,luna3  ,tamales    
,boil "o *ick5 until ! meat comes f !   
bones4 ,*op ! neat f9e & moi/5 x ) !    
liquor 9 :i* x 0 boil$4 ,boil six l>ge  
*ili pepp]s 9 a little wat] until cook$ 
s !y c be /ra9$ ?r\gh a f9e /ra9]1 & add
 to ?is ! *opp$ *ick51 ) salt to ta/e & 
a little *opp$ p>sley4 ,take corn meal &

 "w into x a lump ( butt] ! size ( an   
egg1 add+ boil+ wat] & work+ con/antly  
until x makes a pa/e ! consi/5cy (      
biscuit d\gh4 ,h ready a pile ( ! s(t   
inn] husks ( gre5 corn & on ea* husk    
spread a lump ( d\gh1 ! size ( a walnut1
 into a flat cake cov]+ ! husk4 ,9 !    
c5t] ( ! d\gh put a teaspoonful ( !     
*opp$ meat ) m9c$ olive4 ,on a l>ge husk
 put sev]al tablespoonfuls ( *opp$ meat 
) olives4 ,roll ?is toge!r & lay on !m  
o!r husks until ! tamale is ( ! size    
desir$4 ,tie ! ends toge!r ) /rips ( f9e
 husk & put 9 boil+ wat] = tw5ty m9utes4
 ,ei!r veal or pork may be us$ in/ead ( 
*ick54  ,pol5ti1 prop]ly prep>$1 is a   
di% t requires mu* labor1 & sc>cely     
repays = ! "t & ex]tion sp5t 9 its mak+4
 ,x diff]s f scrapple 9 t ! +r$i5ts are 
mix$ 9 a sauce & p\r$ ov] ! mu% in/ead (
 be+ mix$ 9 ! meal4 ,9 ! ,new ,buon     
,gu/o re/aurant1 9 ,broadway1 !y cook   
pol5ti to p]fection1 & :5 x is s]v$ )   
cipp9o x leaves no?+ to be desir$4 ,?is 
is ! recipe3  ,pol5ti  ,= ! gravy3 ,make

 a little bro? ) veal bone1 a small     
piece ( beef1 a pig's foot1 neck1 feet &
 gizz>d ( *ick54 ,9 a sep>ate kettle    
cook 9 hot oil "o slic$ onion1 "o clove 
( g>lic1 a little p>sley1 "o bell pepp]1
 "o tomato1 a small piece ( cel]y1 & a  
c>rot4 ,cook until s(t & !n add ?is to !
 bro? ) a few dri$ mu%rooms4 ,cook sl[ly
 = ?irty m9utes & !n /ra94  ,= ! mu%3   
,boil corn meal until x is ?or\ghly done
 & !n cool x until x c be cut 9 slices =
 fry+4 ,mix butt] & olive oil & heat 9 a
 fry+ pan & into ?is put ! slices ( corn
 meal1 fry+ to a light br[n4 ,place !   
fri$ corn meal 9 a platt] 9 lay]s1      
spr9kl+ ea* ) grat$ ,p>mesan *eese1     
salt1 & pepp]4 ,take p>sley & "o clove (
 g>lic *opp$ f9e & a c ( ,fr5* mu%rooms 
cut 9 qu>t]s1 & fry 9 butt]1 !n add     
en\gh gravy to p\r ov] ! fri$ corn meal4
 ,place ?is 9 an ov5 = a few m9utes !n  
s]ve4    ,ab\t ,d9+  ,table d'hote is ! 
feature ( ,san ,francisco's re/aurant   
life4 ,x is ! ideal me?od = ^? :o wi% a 
good d9n] & :o h n ! incl9ation1 or ! k1

 to ord] a special d9n]4 ,x is also !   
lea/ exp5sive way ( gett+ a good d9n]4  
,x also saves an exhibition ( ignorance 
reg>d+ ! di%es1 = if y are 9 d\bt all y 
h to d is to leave x to ! wait]1 & he w 
br+ ! be/ !re is on ! day's m5u & w s]ve
 x prop]ly4  ,x is really some?+ to     
elicit wond] :5 "o consid]s !           
possibilities ( a table d'hote d9n] 9 "s
 ( ! less exp5sive re/aurants4 ,take1 = 
in/ance1 ! ,buon ,gu/o1 9 ,broadway4    
,?is re/aurant boa/s a good *ef1 & !    
food is ! f9e/ ! m>ket af=ds4 ,"h is    
s]v$ a six c\rse d9n] = fifty c5ts1 & ! 
m5u c>d is typical ( ?is class (        
re/aurants4 ,:at is provid$ is %[n by ! 
foll[+ tak5 f ! bill ( f>e z x 0 s]v$ u3
  ,hor d'ouvres--f\r k9ds2 five k9ds (  
salad2 two k9ds ( s\p2 sev5 k9ds ( fi%2 
f\r k9ds ( pa/e2 broil$ spr+ *ick52 gre5
 salad ) ,fr5* dress+2 ice cream or rum 
omelet2 mix$ fruits2 demi tasse4  ,) ?is
 is s]v$ a p9t ( good table w9e4  ,z "o 
goes up ) ! scale ( prices 9 !          
re/aurants t *>ge #a1 #a4be1 #a4ej1 #b1 

#b4ej1 & #c = _! d9n]s x w be f\nd t !  
diff]5ce lies *iefly 9 ! v>iety f :i* to
 *oose & f ! surr\nd+s & s]vice4  ,take1
 = example1 ! foll[+ typical m5u = a    
doll> d9n]1 s]v$ at ! ,fior d',italia1 &
 comp>e x ) ! fifty-c5t d9n] j m5tion$3 
,salami & an*ovies2 salad2 *ick5 bro? ) 
,italian pa/e2 fillet ( ,engli% sole1   
sauce t>t>e2 spaghetti or ravioli2      
escallop ( veal1 cap] sauce2 ,fr5* peas 
) butt]2 roa/ *ick5 ) *iffon salad2 ice 
cream or fri$ cream2 assort$ fruits &   
cakes2 demi tasse4 ,w9e ) ?is d9n] is   
extra4  ,n[ go+ a /ep up 9 ! scale we   
come to ! #a4ej d9n] z foll[s3          
,an*ovies1 salami 7note t x is ! same z 
above72 comb9ation salad2 tortell9i di  
,bologna s\p2 /rip$ bass a la           
,livornaise2 ravioli a la ,g5oese &     
spaghetti ) mu%rooms2 *ick5 saute1      
,italian /yle1 ) gre5 peas2 squab )     
lettuce2 zabaione2 fruit2 *eese2 c(fee4 
,w9e is extra4  ,let u n[ look at ! m5u 
( ! #c4ej d9n]1 )\t w9e3  ,pate 'de foie
 gras--truffles on toa/2 salad2 olives2 

,alice ,fall/aff2 ,italian ham          
,prosciutto2 s\p--sem9o ,italiani )     
,brodo de ,cappone2 pompano a la        
papillote2 tortell9i ) fungi a          
funghetto2 fritto mi/o2 spr+ *ick5      
saute2 ,c>ci(fi all',inf]no2 ,capretto  
al ,=no con ,insallata2 omelet ,cele/9e2
 fruit2 *eese1 & black c(fee4  ,?is d9n]
 mu/ be ord]$ ?ree days 9 advance4  ,^! 
m5us w give a good idea ( ! diff]5t     
classes ( d9n]s t c be obta9$4 ,betwe5  
are d9n]s to suit all ta/es &           
pocketbooks4 ,if y wi% to g beyond ^!   
!re is no limit except ! am\nt ( money y
 h4 ,if b ! food value be tak5 into     
consid]ation !n "o w be z well pleas$ ) 
! fifty-c5t d9n] z he w be at ! high]   
pric$ meals1 b if light & music &       
brilliant surr\nd+s are desir$1 !n "o   
mu/ pay = !m z well z = ! meal he eats4 
,all ( ! re/aurants m5tion$ s]ve good   
table d'hote d9n]s1 giv+ an a/oni%+     
v>iety ( foods = ! money1 & x is all    
cook$ & s]v$ 9 a mann] t leaves no?+ to 
be desir$4 ,z be=e m5tion$ if y wi% a   

table d'hote d9n] compos$ entirely ( sea
 food y c get x at ! ,%ell ,fi% ,grotto 
= "o doll>4  ,a good rule to foll[ :5   
d9+ at any ( ! re/aurants is3 ,:5 9 d\bt
 ord] a table d'hote d9n]4 ,y w always  
get a good meal1 = ! lea/ out lay (     
money & lea/ exp5diture ( ?\ght4 ,(t5 "o
 desires some?+ a little diff]5t1 & ?is 
is easy1 too1 & y c cons]ve y\r bra9    
en]gy & get ! mo/ = ! lea/ money by see+
 ! proprietor or manag] ( ! re/aurant & 
tell+ him t y wi% to give a little d9n]4
 ,tell him h[ _m w be 9 ! p>ty & give   
him ! am\nt y wi% to sp5d4 ,x w be      
surpris+1 sometimes1 to see h[ mu* m y c
 get = a slight increase 9 ! price4 ,(  
c\rse y\r w9es & cocktails w be extra & 
^! mu/ be reckon$ 9 ! co/4  ,f ?is we   
come to ! ord]$ d9n]1 & "h is :]e y\r   
own k & special desires come 94 ,"h1    
too1 comes a m>k$ increase 9 ! co/4 ,y  
n[ h ! wide/ range ( possibilities bo? z
 to vi&s & z to price4 ,x is n at all   
difficult to h a d9n]1 )\t w9e1 t co/s  
tw5ty-five doll>s a plate1 & :5 y come  

d[n to ! m normal d9n]s1 unless y conf9e
 y\rself to "o or two di%es y w f9d t y 
f> exce$ 9 price ! table d'hote d9n]s ( 
equal ga/ronomic value4  ,:ile ?is is   
true x is well to be able to ord] y\r   
d9n] = x frequ5tly occurs t "o does n   
c>e to g ?r\gh ! heavy c\rse d9n]       
provid$ table d'hote4 ,sometimes "o     
wants a simple di%1 or p]haps two1 & x  
is well to "k some?+ ab\t !m & h[ to    
ord] !m4 ,we h made x a rule :5ev] we h 
se5 some?+ new on ! bill ( f>e to ord]  
x1 on ! !ory t we are will+ to try any?+
 once1 & 9 ?is way we h greatly enl>g$  
our k ( good ?+s4  ,x is also well to   
rememb] national *>act]i/ics & und]/& t 
c]ta9 di%es are at _! be/ at c]ta9      
re/aurants4 ,= in/ance1 y w be s]v$ ) an
 excell5t pa/e at a ,fr5* re/aurant1 b  
if y want x at its be/ y w get x at an  
,italian re/aurant4 ,on ! o!r h& if y   
desire a delicate entree y w get ! be/  
at a ,fr5* re/aurant4 ,= in/ance1 "o    
w\ld n ask = sau] brat5 any:]e except at
 a ,g]man re/aurant4 ,x w readily be se5

 t ! ,elegant ,art ( ,d9+ 9 ,san        
,francisco means mu* m ?an ! sitt+ at   
table & p>tak+ ( :at is put be=e y4 ,d9+
 is an art1 & its pleasure is greatly   
enhanc$ by a k ( foods1 cook+1 s]v+1    
national *>act]i/ics1 & comb9ations (   
bo? foods & w9es4 ,h[ few p are !re1 =  
in/ance1 :o "k t "o %\ld nev] dr9k any  
h>d liquor1 l :isky1 br&y1 or g91 )     
oy/]s4 ,_m a fit ( acute /oma* tr\ble   
has be5 attribut$ to "s food t 0 ei!r   
bad or badly prep>$ :5 ! cause ( !      
tr\ble 0 ! fact t a cocktail _h be5 tak5
 j prior to eat+ oy/]s4  ,"s ( !        
possibilities ( d9+ 9 ,san ,francisco   
may be und]/ood :5 we tell y ( a        
progressive d9n]4 ,we _h ent]ta9$ "o ( !
 ,exposition ,commission]s f a si/]     
,/ate & he 0 s well pleas$ ) :at he _h  
le>n$ 9 a ga/ronomic way t he said to u3
  ,! ,gov]nor ( my ,/ate is com+ & ,i   
%\ld l to give him a d9n] t w op5 8 eyes
 to ,san ,francisco's possibilities4    
,w\ld x be ask+ too mu* ( y to h y help 
me d x8  ,we %all be glad to4 ,:at d y  

want u to d8  ,take *>ge ( ! :ole       
bus9ess1 d z y please & g z f> z y l4   
,t is a wide ord]1 ,g5]al4 ,:at is !    
limit ( price1 & h[ _m w be 9 ! p>ty8   
,j six4 ,t w include ! ,gov]nor & 8     
wife1 y two & myself & wife4 ,let x be  
some?+ unusual & d n let ! co/ int]f]e4 
,:at ,i want is some?+ unusual4  ,x has 
be5 told u t :5 ! ,gov]nor got back home
 he tri$ to tell "s ( 8 fri5ds ab\t t   
d9n]1 b !y told him he _h acquir$ !     
,cali=nia habit ( talk+ wide4 ,?is is ! 
way we c>ri$ out ! d9n]1 ev]y?+ be+     
arrang$ 9 advance3 ,at #f3cj we call$ at
 ! rooms ( ! ,gov]nor 9 ! ,palace ,hotel
 & _h s]v$ !re dry ,m>t9i cocktails )   
,russian cavi> on toa/$ rye bread4  ,an 
automobile 0 9 wait+1 & at sev5 o'clock 
we 7 set d[n at ,felix's1 9 ,montgom]y  
/reet1 :]e a table 0 ready = u & on x 7 
s]v$ salami ( v>i\s k9ds1 arti*okes 9   
oil & ripe olives4 ,!n came a s]vice (  
s\p1 = :i* ?is re/aurant is fam\s1      
foll[$ by a comb9ation salad1 ) :i* 0   
s]v$ a bottle ( ,pontet ,canet4  ,!     

automobile c>ri$ u !n ov] to ,broadway &
 at ! ,fior d',italia our table 0 wait+ 
& "h we 7 s]v$ ) s&-dabs au grat91 & a  
small glass ( saut]ne4  ,all ! ha/e we  
made 0 on ! /reets1 & :5 we f9i%$ our   
c\rse at ! ,fior d',italia we :irl$ away
 ov] t[>d ,nor? ,bea* to ! ,gi&uja1 :]e 
_h be5 prep>$ especially = u tagli>9i ) 
*ick5 liv]s & mu%rooms1 & because ( its 
success we _h a bottle ( ,lacrima ,*ri/i
 ,spumanti1 ! enjoym5t ( :i* delay$ u4  
,aga9 9 ! automobile to ,coppa's :]e    
,*ick5 ,portola 0 s]v$1 ) gre5 peas4    
,accompany+ ?is 0 a glass ( ,krug1 & ?is
 0 foll[$ by a glass ( zabaione =       
dess]t4  ,back aga9 to ! he>t ( ! city &
 we /opp$ at ,raggi's1 9 ,montgom]y     
/reet ne> ,comm]cial :]e we _h a glass (
 br&y 9 :i* 0 a *9otti 7a peculi>       
,italian pres]v$ fruit :i* is said to be
 a cross betwe5 a citron & an orange74  
,!n ar\nd ! corn] to ,g\ailh>d\         
,rondel's1 ! ,m>ket ,cafe1 :]e f a pla9 
p9e table1 & on s&$ floor1 we _h our    
c(fee royal4 ,z a fitt+ climax = ?is    

ev5+ we direct$ ! *auffeur to drive to !
 ,cliff ,h\se1 :]e1 ov] a bottle (      
,krug1 we talk$ x all ov] z we wat*$ !  
danc+ & li/5$ to ! s++ ( ! cab>et       
p]=m]s4  ,?is d9n]1 includ+ ev]y?+ f !  
automobile to ! tips co/ b fifte5 doll>s
 = ea* "o 9 ! p>ty4    ,some?+ ,ab\t    
,cook+  ,cook+ is sometimes a pleasure1 
sometimes a duty1 sometimes a burd5 &   
sometimes a m>tyrdom1 all accord+ to !  
po9t ( view4 ,! extremes are r>ities1 & 
sometimes duty & burd5 are synonym\s4 ,9
 ord9>y und]/&+ we h ,am]ican cook+ &   
,=eign cook+1 & to "o accu/om$ to pla9  
,am]ican cook+1 all v>iants1 & all      
additions ( spices1 h]bs1 or unusual    
condim5ts is class$ "u ! head ( ,=eign4 
,9 ! av]age ,am]ican family cook+ is a  
duty usually consid]$ z "o ( ! necess>y 
evils ( exi/5ce1 & food is prep>$ z x is
 usually eat5--ha/ily--some?+ to fill ! 
/oma*4  ,! excuse mo/ frequ5tly he>d 9  
,san ,francisco = ! re/aurant habit1 & =
 liv+ 9 coop$-up ap>tm5ts1 is t ! wife  
wants to get away f ! burd5 ( ! kit*5 & 

drudg]y ( h\sework4 ,& l _m o!r effects 
?is ev5tually becomes a cause1 = bo?    
husb& & wife become accu/om$ to bett]   
cook+ ?an !y c\ld get at home & !re is a
 cont9uance ( ! cu/om1 = bo? get a      
di/a/e = pla9ly cook$ food1 & ! wife    
does n "k h[ to cook any o!r way4  ,yet 
:5 all is consid]$ ! diff]5ce betwe5    
pla9 ,am]ican cook+ & :at is t]m$ ,=eign
 cook+1 is b ! prop] use ( condim5ts &  
season+1 comb9$ ) prop] v>iety ( ! food 
supply f ! m>kets4 ,h]e9 lies ! secret (
 a good table-prop] comb9ation ( +r$i5ts
 & prop] v>iation & selection ( !       
provisions toge!r ) prop] prep>ation &  
cook+ ( ! food4  ,we h met ) _m well    
educat$ & well rais$ m5 & wom5 ^:       
ga/ronomic k 0 s limit$ z to be appall+4
 ,all !y knew ( meats 0 conf9$ to ord9>y
 p\ltry1 i4 e41 *ick5s & turkeys1 & to  
beef1 veal1 pork1 & mutton4 ,( ^! !re 7 
b ?ree modes ( cook+--fry+1 /ew+ & bak+1
 sometimes boil+4 ,_! *ops 7 always fri$
 z !y knew no?+ ( ! delicate flavor     
imp>t$ by broil+4 ,9 fact _! k 0 conf9$ 

to ! lea/ heal?ful & lea/ nutriti\s     
modes ( prep>ation & cook+4 ,n only is  
?is true ( ! av]age ,am]ican family1 b  
_! lack ( k ( ! fundam5tals ( cook+ &   
food values br+s ab\t a wa/e l>gely     
responsible = :at is call$ ! high co/ ( 
liv+4 ,x is a trite1 b nev]!less true   
say+ t a ,fr5* family c\ld live well on 
:at an ,am]ican family wa/es4 ,wa/e 9   
prep>ation is b ! milde/ =m ( wa/e4     
,wa/e consequ5t ^u lack ( k ( food      
values is ! wa/e t is d\bly exp5sive = x
 n only wa/es food b x also wa/es !     
sy/em ^: en]gy is exhau/$ 9 try+ to     
assimilate improp] alim5tation4  ,x is a
 well recogniz$ m$ical fact t mu* ( !   
illness ( ,am]icans arises f two causes1
 improp] food & improp] eat+ me?ods4 ,9 
,europe ?is fact 0 recogniz$ & g5]ally  
kn[n s long ago t ! /udy ( food values &
 prep>ation = prop] assimilation is "o (
 ! ess5tial p>ts ( e woman's education1 
& to su* a degree has ?is become rais$  
to a sci5ce t s*ools & ev5 colleges 9   
cook+ are to be f\nd 9 _m p>ts ( ,engl&1

 ,france & ,g]many4 ,francatelli1 !     
great *ef :o 0 at ! head ( ,que5        
,victoria's kit*51 boa/s pr\dly ( 8     
diploma f ! ,p>isian ,college ( ,cook+4 
,! ,unit$ ,/ates is n[ beg9n+ to wake up
 to ! fact t ! prep>ation ( food is     
some?+ m ?an a necess>y evil1 & f ! old 
cook+ classes ( our common s*ools has   
develop$ ! classes 9 ,dome/ic ,sci5ce1 t
 :i* 0 =m]ly consid]$ drudg]y n[ be+    
elevat$ to an art & dignifi$ z a sci5ce4
 ,9 ,europe ?is /age 0 rea*$ _m         
g5]ations ago1 & !re x is n[ an art :i* 
has elevat$ ! primitive process ( fe$+  
to ! elegant art ( d9+4 ,9 ,san         
,francisco probably m ?an 9 any o!r city
 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 n ev5 except+ ,new  
,orleans1 ?is art has fl\ri%$ = _m ye>s 
) ! result t ! av]age ,san ,franciscan  
is disappo9t$ at ! food s]v$ 9 o!r      
cities ( 8 c\ntry1 & always longs = 8   
favorite re/aurant ev5 z ! *ildr5 (     
,israel long$ = ! fle% pots ( ,egypt4   
,"o ne$s to sp5d a day 9 ! ,italian     
qu>t] ( ,san ,francisco to come to a    

full realization ( ! diff]5ce betwe5 !  
requirem5ts ( ev5 ! poore/ ,italian     
family & ! av]age ,am]ican family ( !   
bett] class4 ,we ne$ b say t we h be5   
/udy+ ?is "q = ne>ly tw5ty ye>s yet ev5 
n[ we meet ) surprises 9 ! way ( new    
delicacies & modes ( us+ h]bs & spices 9
 food prep>ation4  ,if we 7 to attempt  
ev5 to enum]ate ! v>i\s h]bs1 spices1   
flavor+s1 delicacies1 & pa/es to be f\nd
 9 a well regulat$ ,italian %op x w\ld  
take _m pages ( ?is book1 yet e "o ( ^! 
articles has its own individual &       
peculi> use1 & ! k ( ^! articles & h[ to
 use !m is :at makes ! diff]5ce betwe5  
,am]ican & ,=eign cook+4 ,ea* h]b has a 
peculi> quality z a /oma*ic & x mu/ be z
 delicately measur$ z if x 7 a m$ic9e4  
,! use ( g>lic1 s mu* decri$ z plebeian1
 is ! secret ( "s ( ! f9e/ di%es prep>$ 
by ! highe/ *efs4 ,x mu/ n be =gott5 t 9
 ! use ( all flavors & condim5ts !re may
 be an intemp]ance1 !re ly+ ! root ( mu*
 ( ! bad cook+4  ,g>lic1 = in/ance1 is a
 flavor & n a food1 yet _m ( ! l[] class

 =eign]s eat x on bread1 mak+ a meal (  
d>k bread1 g>lic & r$ w9e4 ,x is (f5sive
 to s5sitive no/rils & vitiates ! ta/e  
:5 ?us us$1 b :5 prop]ly add$ to c]ta9  
foods x gives an intangible flavor :i*  
nev] fails to elicit praise4 ,:at is    
true ( g>lic is also true ( ! _m h]bs t 
are us$4 ,x is easy to pass f a r>e     
flavor t makes a mo/ savory di% to a    
ta/e ( m$ic9e t spoils a d9n]4 ,) !     
well-kn[n prodigal & wa/eful habits (   
,am]ica ! ,am]ican :o le>ns ! use ( h]bs
 usually makes ! initial mi/ake ( putt+ 
9 ! flavor+ h]bs ) too lavi% a h&1 & x  
is only aft] ye>s ( exp]i5ce t a k (    
prop] comb9ations is obta9$4  ,visitors 
h (t5 express$ wond] at ! v>iety ( foods
 & delicate flavors 9 ,san ,francisco   
re/aurants1 & possibly ?is brief        
explanation may give "s compreh5sion (  
:y ,san ,franciscans always want to get 
back to :]e !y c get some?+ to eat4     
,told 9 a ,:isp]  ,surely ! old         
,bohemians ( ,san ,francisco did n sp5d 
all _! "t 9 re/aurants4 ,h[ did !y live 

:5 at home8 ,?is is :at 0 said to u "o  
day :5 we 7 talk+ ab\t ! old days & !   
old p4 ,inde$ !y did n live all _! "t 9 
re/aurants4 ,"s ( ! mo/ enjoyable meals 
we h eat5 h be5 9 ! rooms & ap>tm5ts (  
our ,bohemian fri5ds1 & ^! meals 7      
prep>$ g5]ally by ea* "o pres5t do+ 8 or
 h] "p 9 mak+ x a success4 ,"o w\ld make
 ! salad1 ano!r ! ma9 di%1 & o!rs d     
v>i\s =ms ( scull]y "w1 & 9 ! end we    
w\ld h a meal t w\ld (t5 put to blu% !  
ef=ts ( _m ( ! r5[n$ *efs4  ,_m p :o    
come to ,san ,francisco w wi% to cons]ve
 _! f9ances z mu* z possible1 & !y w wi%
 to enjoy life 9 _! ap>tm5ts4 ,!re are  
also _m p :o live 9 ,san ,francisco :o  
ne$ a little advice on h[ to get ! be/  
out ( life1 & we are go+ to :isp] a few 
words to all su* z ^! we h m5tion$4  ,y 
c be a ,bohemian & h ! v be/ sort ( liv+
 9 y\r own room = less ?an half ! money 
x w take to live at ! hotels &          
re/aurants1 & we are sure _m ( y w\ld l 
to "k some?+ ab\t h[ to d x4 ,x is n    
necess>y to conf9e y\rself to ! few ?+s 

9 y\r limit$ exp]i5ce4 ,if y are go+ to 
be 9 ,san ,francisco = m ?an a week1 y w
 f9d t a little ap>tm5t1 furni%$ ready =
 h\sekeep+1 w give y opportunity to be  
indep5d5t & free4 ,y w get y\r own      
breakfa/s1 :5 & h[ y want !m4 ,y\r      
lun*eons & d9n]s c be gott5 9 y\r rooms 
or at ! re/aurants j z y are incl9$4  ,y
 w f9d delight & education 9 visit+ !   
m>kets1 & ! =eign /ores :]e all ! /range
 & unusual foods ( all nations are to be
 f\nd4 ,y w discov] bett] articles at   
less prices at ! little ,italian1 ,fr5*1
 ,mexican or ,*9ese /ores & /alls ?an c 
be _h 9 ! mo/ ari/ocratic /ores 9 !     
city4 ,above all y w f9d a joy (        
inv5tion & w be surpris$ at ! delectable
 di%es y c prep>e at a m9imum ( co/4    
,:5 y visit ,san ,francisco y are       
desir\s ( s arrang+ y\r f9ances t y may 
see ! mo/ = ! lea/ outlay ( money4 ,aft]
 a /r5u\s day ( sight-see+ y w sc>cely  
feel l gett+ up a good meal1 consequ5tly
 !n y w foll[ ! ideas sugge/$ 9 ?is book
 & visit ! v>i\s re/aurants1 ?us obta9+ 

a v>iety bo? 9 foods & 9 in=mation ( an 
educational nature4 ,b sometimes y w n  
be tir$1 or y w wi% to get up a little  
late supp] aft] !atre1 & x is !n t y w  
be glad ( ! opportunity af=d$ by hav+   
y\r own kit*5 arrangem5ts s t y c c>ry  
out y\r ta/es1 & cook "s ( ! /range &   
new foods t y h discov]$ 9 y\r rambles  
?r\gh ! =eign qu>t]s4  ,take ! simple   
matt] ( sausage1 = in/ance4 ,ord9>ily we
 "k ( b ?ree k9ds--pork sausage1        
frankfurt] & bologna--nei!r v appetiz+  
or appeal+1 except sometimes ! pork     
sausage = breakfa/4 ,ov] 9 ! little     
,italian & ,fr5* %ops y w f9d "s ( ! mo/
 wond]ful sausages t m9d c conceive (4  
,"s ( ^! are s elaborate 9 _! prep>ation
 t !y co/ ev5 9 t inexp5sive "p ( !     
city1 sev5ty c5ts a p\nd1 & ! v>iety is 
almo/ z inf9ite z t ( ! pa/es4 ,9 !     
,mexican /ores y w f9d a sausage t gives
 a delightful flavor to any?+ x is cook$
 )1 & x is :5 y see ^! sausages t y\r   
eyes beg9 to be op5$4  ,y n[ take       
cognizance ( _m ?+s t h]et(ore escap$   

y\r obs]vation4 ,y see new cann$ goods2 
a wond]ful v>iety ( *eeses2 /range dri$ 
vegetables & delicacies unhe>d (2       
pres]v$ vegetables & fi% & meats 9 oil2 
que] fi% pickl$ & dri$4 ,y beg9 to le>n 
( ! _m uses ( olive oil 9 cook+ & 9 food
 prep>ation4 ,y see ! que] %apes (      
bread1 & note ! num]\s k9ds ( cakes &   
pa/ry t y nev] saw or he>d ( be=e4 ,y   
see boxes ( dri$ h]bs1 & beg9 to realize
 :y y h nev] be5 able to reproduce c]ta9
 flavors y h ta/$ 9 re/aurants4 ,y see  
/range-look+1 flat hams1 & are told t !y
 are ,italian hams1 & if y buy "s y w   
f9d t !y cut ! ham ! wrong way1 & in/ead
 ( slic+ x across ! gra9 !y cut 9 v ?9  
slices d[n ! l5g? ( ! bone4 ,_! flavor  
is m delici\s ?an t ( any ham y h ta/$  
s9ce y us$ to get ! old-"t1 g5u9e c\ntry
 smok$ hams4 ,b if y inve/igate a little
 deep] y w le>n t ^! hams 7 n put up 9  
,italy at all1 b t x is a special br& t 
is prep>$ 9 ,virg9ia = ! ,italians4  ,9 
! ,fr5* /ores y w f9d pres]v$           
cockscombs1 snails1 m>vel\s blood       

sausages ) nuts 9 !m1 r>e *eeses1 prep>$
 meats 9 jellies1 & hundr$s ( delicacies
 unkn[n to y4 ,y c sp5d days 9 ^! /ores1
 f9d+ some?+ new all ! "t4 ,we h be5 go+
 !re = ye>s & /ill run across new ?+s4  
,rememb] t to ! p ( ! ,lat9 ,qu>t] ^!   
?+s are all usual consequ5tly !y ?9k y  
"k z mu* ab\t !m z !y d1 & w volunte] no
 in=mation reg>d+ !m4 ,possibly !y w    
smile at y\r ignorance :5 y ask !m      
que/ions1 b d n hesitate to ask1 = !y   
are c\rte\s & t is ! only way y c f9d   
out ?+s1 & le>n :at all ^! new edibles  
are & :at !y are good =4 ,!re is no     
great] possibility ( int]e/ ?an is to be
 f\nd 9 ! /ores ( ,san ,francisco's     
,lat9 ,qu>t]1 & we mean by ?is ! /ores t
 cat] to ! p ( ! ,qu>t]4 ,9 /ores &     
re/aurants frequ5t$ by ,am]icans !y cat]
 to ,am]ican ta/es & lose mu* ( ! =eign 
flavor4  ,x is also well to be> 9 m9d t 
x is n 9 ! l>ge/ /ores t y f9d ! greate/
 v>iety :5 x comes to odd & new goods4  
,a little %op1 b>ely l>ge en\gh to turn 
ar\nd 9 betwe5 c\nt] & wall1 may h en\gh

 ( int]e/ to ent]ta9 y = half an h\r1 & 
"h ! prices w be rem>kably l[1 = ^! p h 
s little ( ! outside trade t !y h n     
le>n$ to add to _! prices :5 !y see an  
,am]ican face com+4  ,:at is true ( !   
/ores is also true ( ! vegetable /&s1 ! 
meat %ops1 ! fi% /alls1 & bak]ies4 ,"h y
 w f9d bett] & fre%] food supplies ?an 9
 any ( ! simil> places 9 o!r p>ts ( !   
city1 & ! price is g5]ally "o-?ird less4
 ,! high co/ ( liv+ has n rea*$ ?is     
?rifty p ) _! inborn k ( ! values (     
foods4 ,!y live twice z well z ! av]age 
,am]ican family at half ! co/4 ,!y      
comb9e k ( food values ) ! art (        
prep>ation & h a resultant meal t is    
ta/y1 full flavor$1 & n\ri%+ at a m9imum
 ( exp5se4  ,p]haps y want a meal4 ,y\r 
?\ghts at once run to /eaks & *ops1 &   
fri$ potatoes4 ,no?+ b a port]h\se or   
t5d]lo9 /eak or a kidney *op w d4 ,x is 
! mo/ exp5sive meat & y ?9k t ( c\rse x 
is ! be/ & mo/ n\ri%+4 ,if ! k ( food   
values 7 ) y1 y w\ld get ! less exp5sive
 & m n\ri%+ cuts4 ,a flank /eak1 p]haps1

 prep>$ en cass]ole1 & y w\ld h a f9e   
di% = half ! money4 ,z x is 9 meats s x 
is 9 all foods4 ,= t5 c5ts two p c h a  
d9n] ( tagli>9i t is at once n\ri%+ &   
satisfy+ 9 flavor4 ,( c\rse all ?is     
requires k1 b t is easily acquir$1 & x  
adds to ! ze/ ( life to "k t y c d t :i*
 lifts eat+ f ! plane ( fe$+ to t ( d9+2
 t y c *ange exi/5ce into liv+4 ,all    
because y d>e to break away f           
conv5tionalities :i* make s _m p affect 
ignorance ( h[ to live because !y imag9e
 x is an evid5ce ( ref9em5t4 ,if !y b   
knew x1 _! affectation & _! ignorance is
 ! hall m>k ( l[ ca/e4  ,n[ ab\t ?is    
:isp]3 ,we h a fri5d :o has a little    
ap>tm5t :]e he has kept ba*elor's hall =
 _m ye>s4 ,"h "s ( our mo/ pleasant     
ev5+s h be5 sp5t1 & we nev] fe> to g on 
acc\nt ( ! possibility t he may be      
emb>rass$ or inconv5i5c$ ?r\gh lack (   
some?+ to eat or dr9k1 = he is nev] at a
 loss to prep>e some?+ da9ty & appetiz+ 
= u1 & x really seems1 sometimes1 t he  
makes a meal out ( no?+4 ,(t5 ,*>lie    

telephones u t he has discov]$ a new di%
 & hurries u ov] to pass judgm5t on x4  
,&1 by ! way1 _m ( ! good di%es (       
,bohemia are ! result ( accid5t r ?an   
design4    ,out ( ,no?+  ,x is surpris+ 
:at a good meal y c get up sometimes :5 
!re's n a ?+ 9 ! h\se to eat4 ,let u    
give y an example4 ,"o ev5+ two ( our "y
 fri5ds came ov] to tell u _! sweet     
secret1 & ) !m 0 ano!r "y lady4 ,:ile we
 7 talk+ x ov] & mak+ plans = ! w$d+    
ano!r fri5d dropp$ 9 because he said our
 light look$ invit+4  ,an h\r or s (    
talk & !n "o ( u signal$ to ! o!r &     
receiv$ ! %ock+ signal back1 ,!re's n a 
?+ to eat 9 ! h\se4 ,?is call$ = an     
inve/igation ( ! l>d] 9 :i* all jo9$ ) !
 foll[+ result3 ,item--two cans ( re$   
birds f ,*9a1 ea* conta9+ twelve ( !    
little birds z l>ge z y\r ?umb4         
,item--"o egg4 ,o!r items--"o onion1 two
 slices ( dry bread1 "o gre5 pepp]1 r   
small1 "o doz5 crack]s4 ,item--"o case (
 import$ ,italian ,v9 d',oro ,spumanti4 
,item--six he>ty appetites to be        

appeas$4  ,! g5tleman :o saw our light  
saw ano!r1 & ru%$ (f to a b>b] %op1 &   
got f\r m eggs4 ,b>b]s use eggs1 & !y   
mu/ be fre% ones1 9 %ampoo+1 & our fri5d
 rememb]$ x4  ,! two "y ladies & ! "y   
man prep>$ ! table1 & ! o!r lady & ! two
 g5tlem5 set ab\t gett+ a meal4 ,"o ( u 
made an omelet ( ! five eggs1 ! onion & 
! gre5 pepp]1 ) crumbs ( bread1 & ?is is
 ! recipe3  ,omelet a la ,p]uqui]  ,take
 five eggs & beat until v light4 ,roll  
two slices ( dri$ bread to crumbs & mix 
) ! beat5 eggs4 ,*op f9e "o onion & "o  
gre5 pepp]1 season ) salt & pepp]4 ,p\r 
a tablespoonful ( olive oil 9 an omelet 
pan & 9 ?is fry ! pepp]s & onion to a   
light br[n4 ,:5 ready turn into ?is !   
beat5 eggs1 & cook until done4 ,foll[ ! 
rule ( nev] di/urb+ a cook+ egg or a    
sleep+ *ild4 ,s]ve on a hot di%4  ,take 
two cans ( ,*9ese re$ birds1 op5 !m &   
take !refrom ! two doz5 birds conta9$   
!re94 ,9 a hot fry+ pan place ! birds 9 
! grease t comes ar\nd !m & heat !m     
?r\gh4 ,toa/ twelve squ>e crack]s & on  

ea* place two re$ birds1 & s]ve two on  
ea* ( six hot plates4 ,) bo? ! omelet & 
! re$ birds s]ve ,v9 d',oro4    ,pa/e   
,makes ,wa/e  ,9 an ,italian groc]y /ore
 we notic$ a great v>iety ( pa/es 9     
boxes arrang$ along ! c\nt] & began     
c\nt+ !m4 ,! proprietor notic$ u &1 ) a 
*>act]i/ic %rug ( 8 %\ld]s1 said3 ,t is 
b a few ( !m4 ,we h n room to %[ !m all4
 ,9 response to our inquiry reg>d+ !    
numb] ( k9ds ( pa/e made by ,italians he
 said !re 7 m ?an sev5ty-five4 ,ord9>ily
 we ?9k ( "o--spaghetti--or possibly    
two1 includ+ mac>oni4 ,if our k goes a  
little f>!r we ?9k also ( tagli>9i1 :i* 
is ! ,italian equival5t ( noodles1 z x  
is made ) eggs4  ,9 ,new ,york we 7 mu* 
impress$ ) ! /ress !y laid on ! s]v+ (  
spaghetti1 & "o re/aurant w5t s f> z to 
adv]tise d9n]s giv5 "u ! spaghetti v9e4 
,x appe>s t ?is is ! only pa/e !y "k    
any?+ ab\t4  ,aft] "o eats tagli>9i or  
ravioli "o feels l p>aphras+ ! d>key &  
say+1 g way spaghetti1 yo done los' yo  
tase4  ,!n comes tortel9i :i*1 l        

ravioli1 comb9es pa/e ) meat & sp9a*4   
,^! may be consid]$ ! mo/ prom95t ( !   
pa/es1 ! o!rs be+ v>iants 9 ! mak+ &    
cutt+1 ea* s]v+ a special purpose 9     
cook+1 "s be+ = s\ps1 o!rs = sauces &   
o!rs = dress+ = meats4 ,x is m ?an      
probable t ! great v>iety comes f       
individual ta/es 9 cutt+ or roll+4  ,all
 ,italian re/aurants s]ve ! pa/e z a    
releve r ?an z an entree1 :i* x usually 
foll[s1 prec$+ ! roa/ 9 ! d9n]4 ,z a    
sep>ate & di/9ct di% x c well be made to
 s]ve z a full meal1 especially :5      
tagli>9i is prep>$ aft] ! foll[+ recipe3
  ,tagli>9i ,des ,beaux ,arts  ,cook "o 
p\nd ( tagli>9i 9 boil+ wat] tw5ty-five 
m9utes1 !n draw (f ! wat]4 ,to !        
tagli>9i add a h&ful ( mu%rooms :i* h   
be5 slic$ & fri$ 9 butt]4 ,!n add ?ree  
*ick5 liv]s :i* h be5 *opp$ small &     
fri$1 "o slic$ truffle1 "o r$ pepp]     
*opp$ f9e & a little ,p>mesan *eese4    
,make a br[n sauce ( "o-?ird beef bro?  
?ick5$ ) melt$ butt] & fl\r & two-?irds 
tomato sauce1 & p\r ?is ov] ! tagli>9i4 

,spr9kle ) ! ,p>mesan *eese & s]ve v hot
 f a *af+ di%4 7,by ,oliv]1 *ef ( !     
,re/aurant des ,beaux ,arts1 ,p>is47  ,9
 ,san ,francisco "o f9ds bo? ! import$ &
 ! dome/ic pa/e1 & frequ5tly "o he>s !  
ass]tion t ! import$ is ! bett]4 ,?is   
idea is born ( ! ?\ght t all ?+s f      
,europe are bett] ?an ! same made 9     
,am]ica4 ,9 fact ! pa/e t comes f ,italy
 is nei!r s good 9 ta/e1 nor is x s     
clean 9 ! mak+4 ,we h visit$ a numb] (  
pa/e factories 9 ,san ,francisco & h    
f\nd !m all scrupul\sly clean1 ) ! be/ (
 mat]ials 9 ! composition ( ! pa/es4    
,"o (t5 wond]s h[ ! pa/es came to be s  
_m & h[ !y receiv$ _! names4 ,names ( "s
 ( !m are accid5ts1 z is illu/rat$ by   
mac>oni4 ,accord+ to an ,italian fri5d  
:o v\*es = ! fact1 x receiv$ its "n f an
 expression ( pleasure4 ,mac>i means    
f9e1 excell5t1 & ! sup]lative is        
mac>oni4 ,a fam\s ,italian g\rmet       
con/antly desir$ new di%es to please 8  
ta/e1 & "o day 8 *ef c>ri$ to him some?+
 t 0 unusual4 ,! g\rmet ta/$ x1 cri$ out

 mac>i6  ,ta/$ aga91 ?rew out 8 arms 9  
delight & cri$ mac>oni6  ,:at is ! "n ( 
?is wond]ful di%8  ,y h nam$ x4 ,x is   
mac>oni4    ,tips & ,tipp+  ,tipp+ is   
v>i\sly designat$4 ,"s say x is a       
nuisance & %\ld be aboli%$4 ,"s call x  
an outrage & ask = legislative          
int]f]5ce4 ,"s say x is an extortion &  
refuse to pay x4 ,"s say x is a necess>y
 evil & suff] x4 ,! wise ones look at x 
a little diff]5tly4 ,possibly x is be/  
expla9$ or excus$1 :i*ev] way y wi% to  
call x1 by "o ( ,g\v]neur ,morris's     
*>act]s 9 a rec5t /ory1 :o says3  ,:5ev]
 ,i g any:]e ,i f9d p]sons 9 humble     
situations :o smile at me & wi% me well4
 ,i smile back & wi% !m well4 ,x is     
because at "s "t or o!r ,i h tipp$ !m4  
,to me ! sy/em has nev] be5 an annoyance
 b a delightful opportunity = ! ex]cise 
( tact & judgm5t4  ,we look ^u tipp+ z a
 "p ( exp5se to be calculat$ ^u1        
necess>y to insure good s]vice1 n only  
n[ b 9 ! future1 & x %\ld always be     
comput$ 9 ! exp5se ( a trip or a d9n]4  

,tipp+1 to our m9ds1 is ! oil t makes ! 
:eels ( life run smoo?ly4  ,! am\nt ( ! 
tip is always a matt] ( individual      
judgm5t1 dep5d5t ^u ! s]vice r5d]$1 & ! 
way x is r5d]$4 ,! good travel] wants to
 tip prop]ly1 nei!r too little nor too  
mu*1 !reby gett+ ! be/ s]vice1 = 9 ! la/
 analysis ! pleasure ( a trip dep5ds ^u 
! s]vice receiv$4 ,am]ican prodigality &
 as99ity is responsible = mu* ( ! abuse 
( tipp+4 ,too _m ,am]icans :5 !y travel 
desire to appe> important & ! only way  
!y c accompli% ?is is by buy+ !         
subs]vi5cy ( m5ials :o laugh at !m beh9d
 _! backs4  ,a tip %\ld always dep5d ^u 
! s]vice r5d]$4 ,we make x a rule to    
)hold ! tip f a c>eless or inconsid]ate 
wait]1 & always add to ! tip a ^w (     
comm5dation :5 !re has be5 extra good   
s]vice4 ,! am\nt ( ! tip dep5ds1 fir/ on
 ! s]vice1 second on ! am\nt ( ! bill1 &
 ?ird1 on ! "* ( ! place :]e y are s]v$4
 ,:5 we ord] a specially prep>$ d9n]1 ) 
our sugge/ions z to its composition &   
s]vice1 we tip ! head wait]1 ! *ef1 !   

wait] & ! bus boy4 ,we h giv5 d9n]s :]e 
! tips am\nt$ to fully half z mu* z !   
d9n] itself1 & we felt t ?is "p ( !     
exp5se br\ght u ! greate/ pleasure4  ,x 
is impossible to make a h>d & fa/ rule  
reg>d+ h[ mu* to give a wait]4 ,ea*     
p]son mu/ use 8 or h] own judgm5t4 ,if y
 are 9 a =eign c\ntry y might d z we did
 on our fir/ trip to ,p>is4 ,we want$ to
 d :at 0 "r b n :at mo/ ,am]icans ?9k is
 "r ,we 7 at a hotel :]e only ,fr5* 7   
usually gue/s1 & 9 ord] to d ! "r ?+ we 
took ! proprietor into our confid5ce &  
expla9$ to him our dilemma4 ,we ask$ him
 :om to tip & h[ mu* to give1 & he got u
 out ( our difficulty & we f\nd t ! tips
 am\nt$ to ab\t z mu* = "o :ole week z  
we _h be5 held up = 9 "o day at !       
,waldorf-,a/oria4    ,! ,my?ical ,l&    
,not)/&+ ! fact t ,web/] gives no       
recognition 9 8 diction>y to ! ,l& (    
,bohemia or ! occupants !re(1 ! l&      
exi/s1 p]haps n 9 a mat]ial way1 b      
c]ta9ly m5tally4 ,"s h n ! p]ception to 
see x2 "s "k n ! language t admits      

entrance2 "s pass x by e day )\t und]/&+
 x4 ,yet x z truly exi/s z any ( ! l&s  
told ( 9 our *ildhood fables & fairy    
/ories4  ,! old def9ition ( ,bohemian 0 
a vagabond1 a wayf>]4 ,possibly t       
def9ition may1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 be true
 ( ! pres5t-day ,bohemian1 = he is a    
m5tal vagabond & a m5tal wayf>]4  ,9 our
 judgm5t ! ^w comes f ! ,fr5* ,bon      
,homme1 = surely ! ,bohemian is a good  
man4  ,:atev] may be ! d]ivation ! fact 
rema9s t n to all is giv5 ! p]ception to
 und]/&1 nor ! eyes to see1 & !re9 lies 
"o ( ! dang]s ( writ+ su* a book z ?is4 
,if y read ?is & !n hurry (f to a       
specifi$ re/aurant ) ! expectation (    
f9d+ ! ,bohemian atmosph]e 9 evid5ce y  
are apt to be disappo9t$1 = frequ5tly x 
is necess>y to create y\r own ,bohemian 
atmosph]e4  ,!n1 too1 all nights are n !
 same at re/aurants4 ,= in/ance if y    
desire ! be/ s]vice af=d$ 9 any         
re/aurant d n select ,saturday or       
,sunday night1 b if y w lay aside y\r   
desire = p]sonal com=t 9 s]vice1 & wi%  

to /udy "*1 !n take ,saturday or ,sunday
 night = y\r visit4 ,x is v possible t y
 w ?9k ! re/aurant has *ang$ h&s betwe5 
,friday & ,saturday4 ,on ,saturday &    
,sunday ev5+ ! mass ( ,san ,francisco's 
great cosmopolitan population holds     
holiday & ! great feature ( ! holiday is
 a re/aurant d9n]1 :]e !re is music1 &  
glitt]1 & joy\s1 human companion%ip4 ,at
 su* times wait]s become c>eless &      
sometimes famili>4 ,cooks are ru%$ to   
su* an ext5t t !y d n give ! c>e to _!  
prep>ation t !y take pride 9 on o!r     
nights1 consol+ !mselves frequ5tly ) !  
?\ght t ! ,saturday & ,sunday night     
patrons d n "k or appreciate ! highe/ =m
 ( ga/ronomic art4  ,rememb]1 also1 t ! 
_w is a look+ glass4 ,smile into x & x  
smiles back2 fr[n & y get black looks4  
,9 ,bohemia we sometimes f9d x well to  
ov]look soil$ table nap]y1 s&$ floor or 
untidy appe>ance4 ,( c\rse ?is is n 9 ! 
high] class ( re/aurants1 b !re are     
times & places :5 y mu/ rememb] y are   
mak+ a /udy ( human int]e/ & n gett+ a  

meal1 & y mu/ leave y\r fa/idi\sness &  
squeami%ness at home4  ,x takes "s "t to
 get well )9 ! inn] circle (            
,bohemianism1 b aft] y h arriv$ y h !   
password & all doors are op5 to y4 ,if  
our fri5ds ?9k ( a new /ory !y save x up
 until our next com+ & tell u some?+ t  
always has a be>+ on ,bohemia4 ,=       
in/ance1 h[ few ( u "k ! orig9 ( ! m5u  
c>d4 ,x seems to be a natural ?+1 yet1 l
 all ?+s1 x _h a beg9n+1 & ?is is ! way 
x began 7accord+ to a good fri5d :o told
 x to u73  ,fr$]ick ! ,great 0 a lov] ( 
good eat+ & 8 *ef took pride 9 provid+  
new & r>e di%es = 8 delectation4 ,b x   
frequ5tly occurr$ t ! great rul] p]mitt$
 8 appetite to ov]come 8 judgm5t1 & he  
w\ld eat s he>tily ( ! food fir/ set    
be=e him t :5 lat] & m delici\s di%es   
came to ! table he 0 unable to d !m     
ju/ice4 ,to obviate ?is he ord]$ 8 *ef  
to prep>e ea* day a li/ ( :at 0 to be   
s]v$1 & to %[ _! rotation dur+ ! meal1 &
 9 compliance ) ?is ord] ! fir/ m5u c>d 
0 writt54 ,to ,fr$]ick ! ,great is also 

attribut$ ! nam+ ( ! ,g]man bread n[    
call$ pump]nickel4 ,accord+ to "o ( our 
,italian fri5ds ! /ory runs ?is way3    
,fr$]ick wi%$ "s bread & 8 *ef s5t him 9
 a loaf t 0 ( unusual color & flavor4 ,x
 did n please ! k+ & he 0 n sl[ to      
express 8 disapproval4 ,he own$ a horse 
nam$ ,ni*olas b commonly call$ ,ni*o6 & 
:5 ! *ef appe>$ be=e him to receive 8   
c5sure = s5d+ 9 di/a/eful bread1        
,fr$]ick ?rew ! loaf at 8 head1         
exclaim+1 ,bon p\r ,ni*ol4 ,f ?is x     
receiv$ its "n :i* has become corrupt$  
to pump]nickel4  ,aft] ! doors are op5  
to y1 y w f9d n only _m new /ories1 b y 
w le>n ( cu/oms unusual & discov] _!    
orig9 dat+ back to ! days ^: hi/ory     
rema9s only 9 ,folk ,lore4 ,y w be let  
into family secrets ( ! ali5 qu>t]s1 & w
 le>n ( hopes1 aspirations1 & desires1 t
 w />tle y ) _! /rang5ess4 ,y w f9d     
arti/s1 sculptors1 & writ]s ( v]se 9    
embryo1 & if y rema9 long en\gh 9 !     
atmosph]e y may see1 z we h1 "s ( ^!    
embryonic ?9k]s a*ieve fame t becomes   

nation wide4  ,x is said ( ! ,isl&s ( ! 
,s\? ,seas t :5 "o eats ( c]ta9 fruit x 
creates su* a long+ t ! m9d is nev]     
cont5t until ano!r visit is made4 ,san  
,francisco's ,bohemia lays no claim to  
p]suasive fruit1 b x is true t :5 "o    
brea!s 9 ! atmosph]e ( ?is my?ical _w x 
leaves an unre/ t is only appeas$ by a  
return to :]e ! :isp]+ w9ds tell (      
,en*ant$ ,l& :]e y get ! be/ !re is to  
eat1 s]v$ 9 a mann] t enhances its      
flavor & e/abli%es x =ev] 9 y\r memory4 
,app5dix    ,h[ to ,s]ve ,w9es  ,a few  
h9ts reg>d+ ! prop] s]v+ ( w9es may n be
 amiss1 & we give y "h ! cons5sus op    
op9ion ( ! mo/ not$ g\rmets :o h made a 
/udy ( ! be/ results f comb9ations4     
,nev] dr9k any h>d liquors1 su* z :isky1
 br&y1 g91 or cocktails1 ) oy/]s or     
clams1 z x is liable to upset y = ! re/ 
( ! ev5+4  ,) hor d'ourves s]ve v]m\?1  
%]ry1 m>sala or madeira w9e4  ,) s\p &  
fi% s]ve :ite w9es1 su* z ,rhe9 w9e1    
saut]ne or :ite burgundy4  ,) entrees   
s]ve cl>ets or o!r r$ w9es1 su* z       

,swiss1 ,bordeaux1 ,hung>ian or ,italian
 w9es4  ,burg&y may also be s]v$ at any 
( ! lat] c\rses4  ,) roa/s s]ve *ampagne
 or any ( ! sp>kl+ w9es4  ,) c(fee s]ve 
kir*1 ,fr5* br&y or f9e *ampagne4  ,aft]
 c(fee s]ve a liqueur4 ,nev] s]ve m ?an 
"o glass ( any liqueur4   ,! foll[+ w9es
 may be consid]$ ! be/ types3           
,amontillado1 ,montilo & ,olorosa       
%]ries4  ,au/rian burgundy is "o ( !    
f9e/ w9es1 possess+ ri* flavor & f9e    
p]fume4   ,o!r burgundies are3  ,*ablis3
 ,a :ite burgundy1 dry & ( agreeable    
aroma4  ,*amb]t93 ,a s\nd1 delicate w9e 
) a flavor resembl+ raspb]ry4  ,clos de 
,vogeot3 ,simil> to *amb]t91 & (t5 call$
 ! k+ ( burg&y4  ,romanee3 ,a v r>e &   
co/ly w9e ( ri*1 ruby color1 ) a        
delicate b\quet4   ,cl>ets are valu$ =  
_! flavor & = _! tonic prop]ties4 ,"s ( 
! be/ are3  ,*ateau ,grille3 ,a des]t   
w9e ( good flavor & f9e aroma4  ,*ateau 
,lafitte3 ,has beautiful color &        
delicate flavor4  ,*ateau la ,rose3     
,great] alcoholic /r5g? & ( f9e flavor4 

,*ateau ,m>gaux3 ,ri*1 ) delicate flavor
 & excell5t b\quet4  ,pontet ,canet3 ,a 
heavi] w9e ) good b\quet & f9e flavor4  
,/4 ,juli53 ,a light] cl>et ) good      
b\quet4  ,g]man w9es are ( light] "*1 & 
are g5]ally t]m$ ,rhe9 w9es4 ,! be/     
v>ieties are3  ,ho*heim]3 ,a light1     
pleas+ & :olesome w9e4  ,brauneb]g]3 ,a 
good v>iety ) pleas+ flavor & aroma4    
,dreimann]3 ,simil> to ,brauneb]g]4     
,deide%eim]3 ,simil> to ,brauneb]g]4    
,graff5b]g3 ,light & pleasant4 ,good    
aroma4  ,johannisb]g] ,s*loss3 ,"o ( !  
be/ ( ! ,g]man w9es4  ,rude%eim]        
,s*loss3 ,9 class ) ,johannisb]g]4      
,italian w9es are mo/ly r$1 ! mo/ not$ 9
 ,cali=nia be+ ,*ianti1 & its ,cali=nia 
prototype4 ,tipo ,*ianti1 made by ! ,a/i
 ,colony4  ,lacrima ,*ri/i ,spumanti3 ,!
 f9e/ ,italian *ampagne4 ,dry & (       
magnific5t b\quet4  ,v9 d',oro          
,spumanti3 ,a high-class *ampagne4      
,sweet & ( f9e b\quet & flavor4         
,lacrima ,*ri/i3 ,a /ill w9e ( excell5t 
flavor & b\quet4  ,malaga3 ,a w9e ( high

 repute4 ,sweet & p[]ful4 ,a peculi>    
flavor is giv5 to x ?r\gh ! addition ( a
 small quantity ( burn$ w9e4  ,m>sala3  
,is a gold5 w9e ( mo/ agreeable color & 
aroma4   ,saut]ne3 ,is a :ite ,bordeaux1
 a /rong lusci\s w9e1 ! be/ kn[n        
v>ieties be+3  ,*ateau ,yquem3          
,rem>kable = its ri* & velvety s(tness4 
,b>sac3 ,ri* & good4  ,*ateau ,filhot3  
,( ri* color & good flavor4  ,*ateau    
,lat\r ,blan*e3 ,a :ite saut]ne (       
exquisite b\quet4  ,haut ,saut]ne3 ,s(t 
& mild4 ,( good flavor4  ,v9 de ,graves3
 ,good & ,/rong4 ,good aroma & flavor4  
,v9tage ye>s h mu* to d ) ! quality (   
w9es4 ,! be/ v9tage ye>s are z foll[s3  
,*ampagnes3 #ahib4 ,rhe9 & ,moselle3    
#ahic4 ,burg&y3 #ahib1 #ahii & #aijd4   
,cl>et3 #ahih & #aijd4 ,port3 #ahif &   
#aijd4 ,%]ry3 #ahhb1 #ahij1 #ahih &     
#aijj4    ,a ,good ,bohemian ,d9n]      
,sometimes p desire to give a d9n] & are
 at loss z to ! prop] "t to s]ve w9es4  
,! foll[+ m5u w give "s ideas on !      
subject3  ,m5u  ,gibson ,cocktail       

,canape ,norwegian  7,s]ve ^! be=e ent]+
 d9+ room7  ,arti*oke ,he>ts 9 ,oil     
,ripe ,olives     ,cel]y  ,amontillado  
,%]ry  ,oy/]s on ,half ,%ell  ,bisque ( 
,ecrevisse     ,*ablis1 or ,:ite        
,saut]ne  ,s&-dabs ,edw>d ,,vii         
,slic$ ,cucumb]s1 ,ic$  ,esc>got        
,francais     ,*ateau ,lafitte          
,cassolette ( ,t]rap91 ,m>yl&           
,romanee  ,tagli>9i des ,beaux ,arts    
,pun* ,pi/a*e     ,cig>ettes  ,alligator
 ,pe>s ) ,cumquats1 ,fr5* ,dress+       
,*ick5 ,portola     ,krug ,private      
,cuvee ,brut  ,cream$ ,new ,potatoes    
,cel]y ,victor     ,fr5* ,peas          
,zabaione  ,re9a ,cabot  ,c(fee ,royal  
,cig>ettes  ,gr& ,m>ni]    ,9 our       
travels ?r\gh ,bohemia x has be5 our    
good =tune to ga!r hundr$s ( recipes (  
new1 /range & r>e di%es1 prep>$ by ^? :o
 look f>!r ?an ! /ok+ ( ! physical sy/em
 9 ! prep>ation ( foods4 ,"s ( ^! are f 
*efs 9 re/aurants & hotels1 "s f m5 &   
wom5 ( ! =eign colonies & "s f good     
fri5ds :o l5t _! aid 9 our pleasurable  

occupation4 ,t we _c pr9t !m all 9 a    
volume ( ?is size is our regret1 b ano!r
 book n[ 9 prep>ation w conta9 !m1      
toge!r ) o!r talks ab\t ,san            
,francisco's =eign qu>t]s4  ,f our /ore 
we h select$ ! foll[+ z be+ well wor?   
try+3  ,onion ,s\p  ,cut f\r l>ge onions
 9 l>ge pieces & put !m 9 six ounces (  
butt] ) pepp] & salt4 ,sl[ly /ew ?is 9 a
 little beef /ock & a little milk1 /irr+
 con/antly1 = "o h\r4 ,add m /ock & milk
 & let cook sl[ly = ano!r h\r4 ,9 a     
ture5 place slices ( bread spr9kl$ ) two
 tablespoonfuls ( ,p>mesan *eese4 ,beat 
! yolks ( f\r eggs & mix !m ) a         
tablespoonful ( ! s\p & p\r ?is ov] !   
bread & *eese4 ,cov] ?is = five m9utes &
 !n p\r ov] x ! re/ ( ! s\p4  ,creole   
,gumbo ,s\p  ,take two "y *ick5s1 cut 9 
pieces1 roll 9 fl\r & fry to light br[n4
 ,take ! fri$ *ick51 a ham bone /ripp$ (
 meat = flavor1 a tablespoonful ( *opp$ 
?yme1 ( rosem>y1 two bay leaves1 a sprig
 ( t>ragon & boil 9 f\r qu>ts ( wat]    
until ! meat loos5s f ! bones4 ,slice & 

fry br[n two l>ge onions & add two heap+
 qu>ts ( slic$ okra & "o cut up pod ( r$
 pepp]4 ,/ir all ov] ! fire until ! okra
 is ?or\ghly wilt$ !n remove ! l>g]     
bones & let cook ?ree qu>t]s ( an h\r   
be=e s]v+4 ,half an h\r be=e s]v+ add a 
c ( tomatoes or an equal quantity ( fre%
 ones1 & a p9t ( %rimps1 boil$ & %r$d$4 
,h a di% ( well boil$ & dry rice & s]ve 
) two or ?ree tablespoonfuls 9 ea* s\p  
plate4  ,oy/] ,salad  ,to a solid p9t ( 
oy/]s use a dress+ made z foll[s3 ,beat 
well two eggs & add to !m half a gill   
ea* ( cream & v9eg>1 half teaspoonful   
mu/>d1 cel]y se$1 salt ea*1 "o-t5?      
teaspoonful cay5ne1 & a tablespoonful ( 
butt]4 ,put all 9 a d\ble boil] & cook  
until x all is z ?ick z s(t cu/>d 7ab\t 
six m9utes71 /irr+ con/antly4 ,take f ! 
fire4 ,heat ! oy/]s 9 _! own liquor to a
 boil+ po9t !n dra9 & add ! dress+1 mix+
 lightly4 ,set away 9 cold place until  
ne$$4  ,italian ,salad  ,soak two salt  
h]r+s 9 milk ov] night & !n remove !    
bones & sk9 & cut up 9 small pieces4    

,cut 9 small pieces "o & "o-half p\nds  
ea* ( cold roa/ veal & cold boil$ tongue
 & add to ^! & ! h]r+s six boil$        
potatoes1 half a doz5 small cucumb]     
pickles & two small boil$ beets1 all cut
 up1 & two raw apples1 ?ree boil$ c>rots
 & "o l>ge boil$ cel]y root1 all m9c$4  
,mix all ! above 9 salad b[l & p\r ov] x
 mayonnaise dress+4 ,g>ni% ! tops ) h>d 
boil$ eggs1 slic$1 & cap]s1 & ripe      
olives f :i* ! /ones h be5 remov$4      
,g>ni% ! b[l ) p>sley & 9 ! c5t] put h>d
 boil$ eggs /uff$ ) cap]s4  ,sol>i's    
,crab ,l\is  ,take meat ( crab 9 l>ge   
pieces & dress ) ! foll[+3 ,"o-?ird     
mayonnaise1 two-?irds *ili sauce1 small 
quantity *opp$ ,engli% *[-*[1 a little  
,worce/]%ire sauce & m9c$ t>ragon1      
%allots & sweet p>sley4 ,season ) salt &
 pepp] & keep on ice4  ,soles ) ,w9e    
,take fillets ( sole & p\nd lightly )   
blade ( knife !n soak !m two h\rs 9     
beat5 eggs season$ ) salt & pepp]4 ,:5  
ready to cook roll !m 9 bread crumbs &  
fry 9 olive oil4 ,take a little ( t oil 

& put 9 ano!r pan ) a tablespoonful (   
butt] & season ) salt & pepp] & aga9    
cook fi% 9 ?is1 add+ half a glass ( dry 
:ite w9e4 ,spr9kle ) *opp$ p>sley & let 
cook five m9utes4 ,spr9kle ) ,p>mesan   
*eese & put slices ( lemon ar\nd x4     
,s]ve on hot plates4  ,grill$ ,mu%rooms 
,sk9 & remove /alks f l>ge fre% mu%rooms
 & lay on a di% ) a little f9e olive    
oil1 pepp]1 & salt1 ov] !m = "o h\r4    
,broil on a gridiron ov] a cle> %>p fire
 & s]ve !m ) ! foll[+ sauce3  ,mu%room  
,sauce  ,m9ce ! /alks or any sp>e pieces
 ( mu%rooms f9e1 put 9 a /ewpan ) a     
little bro?1 "s *opp$ p>sley1 "y onions1
 butt] & ! juice ( a lemon1 or in/ead ( 
! latt] ! yolk ( an egg beat5 up 9      
cream4 ,beat all toge!r & p\r ar\nd !   
mu%rooms4  ,italian ,turta  ,cut v f9e !
 t5d] "p ( "o doz5 arti*okes4 ,take "o  
loaf ( /ale bread crumbs1 moi/5 &       
squeeze1 & add ?ree tablespoonfuls (    
grat$ *eese1 ?ree cloves ( g>lic1       
bruis$1 "o onion *opp$ f9e1 sev]al      
sprigs ( p>sley *opp$ f9e1 a little     

cel]y & half a cup ( olive oil4 ,mix all
 toge!r ?or\ghly ) pl5ty ( pepp] & salt 
& make into a loaf4 ,bake sl[ly =ty-five
 m9utes4  ,oeuffs ,au ,soliel  ,poa*    
eight fre% eggs !n take !m out & place 9
 cold wat] until cool2 lay !m = a qu>t] 
( an h\r to m>9ade 9 a glass ( :ite w9e 
) sweet h]bs4 ,dry on a clo? & dip 9 a  
batt] ( fl\r mix$ ) equal quantities (  
ale & wat] to ! consi/5cy ( d\ble cream4
 ,fry to light br[n4  ,eggs ) ,w9e  ,put
 ?ree cupfuls ( r$ w9e ,into a cass]ole 
& add ?ree tablespoonfuls ( sug>1 r9d ( 
half a lemon1 rais9s1 & sweet almonds1  
blan*$ & *opp$4 ,:5 ! w9e boils break ! 
eggs into x z 9 poa*+ eggs4 ,let !m cook
 well & !n put 9 s]v+ di%4 ,add "o      
tablespoonful ( fl\r to ! w9e & cook to 
a cream !n p\r ov] ! eggs4  ,italian    
,risotto  ,soak two level teacups (     
rice4 ,ma% two cloves ( g>lic & mix ) a 
little m9c$ p>sley4 ,soak a doz5 dri$   
mu%rooms 9 a little wat] until s(t1 !n  
*op f9e & dra94 ,cov] ! bottom ( a      
saucepan ) olive oil1 place ov] ! fire  

until q hot1 !n put 9 ! g>lic1 p>sley1 &
 mu%rooms1 add half a c ( tomatoes &    
cook half an h\r4 ,dra9 ! rice & put 9 a
 saucepan1 add+ a little bro?1 half a   
cup at a "t1 to keep f burn+1 & add1    
/irr+ con/antly1 ! o!r +r$i5ts1 cook+   
all toge!r until ! rice is done4 ,salt  
to ta/e2 spr9kle ) ,p>mesan *eese4      
,scallops ( ,sweetbread  ,p>boil !      
sweetbreads & !n glaze 9 r$uc$ ,allem&e 
sauce4 ,dip 9 bread crumbs & fry 9 butt]
 until a light br[n4 ,:5 done di% 9     
close ord] & fill c5t] ) ,t\l\se ,rag\t1
 z foll[s3  ,t\l\se ,rag\t  ,prep>e half
 a doz5 f9e1 l>ge cockscombs1 two doz5  
button mu%rooms1 small pieces (         
sweetbreads & a proportionate quantity (
 truffles4 ,place all 9 a /ewpan & add a
 small ladleful ( drawn butt] sauce1 & !
 juice ( a lemon4 ,cook a few m9utes4   
,lamb ,*ops ,m>9ade  ,soak kidney lamb  
*ops 9 ! foll[+ mixture = twelve h\rs & 
!n broil3 ,f\r tablespoonfuls olive oil1
 "o tablespoonful t>ragon v9eg>1 "o     
small slic$ onion1 "o ma%$ clove (      

g>lic1 "o brok5 up bay leaf1 twelve :ole
 black pepp]s1 six cloves1 "o saltspoon 
( salt1 two teaspoonfuls dri$ ?yme1     
/rips ( p>sley & lemon peel4  ,spani%   
,*ick5 ,pie  ,cut up a *ick5 & boil     
until t5d]4 ,cut up & fry 9 *ick5 fat   
two onions1 two gre5 pepp]s1 /irr+ 9 "o 
& "o-half tablespoonfuls ( fl\r4 ,h     
ready five tomatoes1 /ew$1 & put 9 two  
doz5 ripe olives ) a small clove (      
g>lic1 ma%$4 ,grate sev5 l>ge e>s (     
corn1 season ) salt & put a lay] 9 a    
greas$ bak+ pan1 !n *ick51 !n ! o!r     
+r$i5ts1 ) a little ( ! gravy4 ,/ir all 
toge!r & bake until br[n4  ,*ick5       
,jambalaya  ,cut a "y *ick5 into small  
pieces & /ew until t5d]1 hav+ ! meat    
cov]$ ) ! bro? :5 done4 ,remove ! meat1 
dra9 & fry to light br[n ) two slices ( 
onion4 ,put 9 ! *ick51 onion1 & "o      
hundr$ ,cali=nia oy/]s1 back into ! bro?
 & season ) salt1 pepp]1 juice ( a      
lemon1 bruis$ clove ( g>lic1 *opp$ gre5 
pepp]1 & a p9* ( r$ pepp]4 ,let all come
 to a boil4 ,wa% & dry two cups ( rice &

 put into ! s\p & cook until ?or\ghly   
done & mod]ately dry 7tw5ty-five        
m9utes74 ,s]ve hot or cold4  ,quajatale 
,en ,mole  ,?is is ,mexican ,turkey 9   
,r$ ,pepp]1 a favorite banquet di%4 ,cut
 a "y turkey into small pieces & boil ) 
%allots & salt4 ,take half a p\nd ( r$  
pepp]s1 scald$ & se$$1 & gr9d f9e )     
black pepp]s1 cel]y se$1 cloves1        
allspice1 & mu/>d 7ab\t half a          
teaspoonful ( ea*7 & add to ?is "s ( !  
bro? 9 :i* ! turkey 0 cook$4 ,put a p\nd
 ( l>d 9 a skillet &1 :5 boil+1 put 9 ! 
mixture ) ! turkey & let cook t5 m9utes1
 s5d+ x to ! table hot4  ,delmonico     
,rais9 ,sauce  ,br[n butt] 9 a skillet &
 /ir 9 a teaspoonful ( fl\r1 =m+ a smoo?
 pa/e4 ,add "o cup ( hot s\p /ock1 /irr+
 con/antly4 ,:ile boil+ put into ?is a  
h&ful ( rais9s1 h&ful ( blan*$ almonds1 
p\nd$1 half a lemon1 slic$ ?91 a few    
cloves1 a p9* ( c9namon1 & a little     
hors]adi%4 ,f9e = roa/ beef4  ,p\let a  
la ,napoli  ,cut & trim a *ick5 z =     
fricassee4 ,take ! w+s1 drum/icks1 ?ighs

 & two pieces ( ! brea/ & /eep !m 9 cold
 wat] half an h\r4 ,dra9 & wipe dry &   
du/ ov] ) fl\r & set aside4  ,take ! re/
 ( ! *ick5 ) ! giblets & *op small4 ,)  
wat] let ?is simm] = two h\rs1 mak+ a   
/rong bro? ) a little veal 7two ounces  
or m74 ,slice an onion into r+s :i*     
place 9 ! bottom ( a /ewpan ) an ounce (
 butt]4 ,to ?is add ! meat & giblets & a
 p9t ( :ite bro?4 ,let all simm] b n    
boil or let color4 ,ov] ?is p\r common  
bro? until cov]$ & br+ sl[ly to boil+   
po9t4 ,add a small b\quet ( h]bs & simm]
 = an h\r1 !n /ra94 ,?ick5 a little & !n
 simm] 9 ?is ! /alks & peel+s ( a qu>t] 
( a p\nd ( mu%rooms & ! *ick5 t 0       
previ\sly prep>$ & du/$ ) fl\r4 ,:5 done
 /ra9 !m & dra9 ! *ick54 ,/ra9 ! sauce &
 ?ick5 ) fl\r until x is ( ! consi/5cy (
 a r ?9 batt]4  ,dip ! pieces ( *ick5   
into ! batt] until well coat$ & set     
aside until x is cold4 ,!n dip ! *ick5  
into well-beat5 eggs & cov] ) bread     
crumbs4 ,let set & !n repeat4 ,9 hot    
olive oil fry ! *ick5 until a gold5     

br[n4 ,s]ve on a napk9 & g>ni% ) p>sley 
& potatoes ,du*esse4 ,cook ! peel$      
mu%rooms 9 ! rema9+ sauce be=e ! la/    
?ick5+1 & s]ve 9 gravy boat to p\r ov] !
 *ick54  ,zabaione  ,beat toge!r1 h>d1 =
 six m9utes1 six eggs & f\r teaspoonfuls
 ( p[d]$ sug> 9 a d\ble boil] & place   
ov] a g5tle fire1 nev] ceas+ to :ip     
until ! cont5ts become /iff en\gh to    
su/a9 a c(fee spoon upright 9 ! middle4 
,:ile :ipp+ add ?ree w9e-glassfuls (    
,m>sala & "o liqueur glass ( ,m>as*9o   
br&y4 ,p\r into tall glasses or cups &  
s]ve ei!r hot or cold4  ,pea*es a la    
,pr9cesse  ,halve six f9e pea*es1 n too 
ripe1 & place 9 saucepan ) concave side 
up4 ,take "o pea*1 peel$1 & m9ce ) a    
doz5 mac>oons1 add+ ! yolk ( an egg &   
half an ounce ( sug>4 ,mix all well     
toge!r & ) ?is fill ! half pea*es4      
,moi/5 all ) half a cup ( :ite w9e &    
spr9kle ) sug>4 ,bake 9 a hot ov5 t5    
m9utes & p\r ov] zabaione & s]ve4 ,?is w
 make a mo/ delici\s dess]t di%4        
,sultana ,roll  ,add ! beat5 yolks (    

sev5 eggs to "o p9t ( boil+ milk1 "o cup
 ( sug>1 "o-half teaspoonful ( vanilla1 
"o-qu>t] teaspoonful ( almond extract4  
,:5 ?ick add two & a half cups ( ?ick   
cream4 ,cool & freeze4 ,l9e ! bottom ( a
 mold ) ,sultana rais9s :i* h be5 soak$ 
9 %]ry w9e tw5ty-f\r h\rs4 ,put a lay] (
 froz5 cream1 !n rais9s1 cont9u+ until  
all is us$4 ,pack 9 ice & salt two h\rs 
& s]ve ) c>amel sauce4  ,c>amel ,sauce  
,butt] ! inside ( a saucepan4 ,put 9 two
 ounces ( unsweet5$ *ocolate & melt ov] 
hot wat]4 ,add two cups ( light br[n    
sug> & mix well4 ,add "o ounce ( butt] &
 half a cup ( ri* milk4 ,cook until     
mixture =ms a s(t ball :5 te/$ 9 cold   
wat]4 ,flavor ) vanilla & p\r1 :ile hot1
 ov] ea* s]vice ( ! roll4 ,x imm$iately 
h>d5s1 =m+ a delici\s c>amel cov]+ to ! 
ice cream4  ,wel% ,r>ebit  ,take "o p\nd
 ( mild ,am]ican *eese & put 9 saucepan4
 ,add five w9eglassful ( old ale1 place 
ov] ! fire & /ir until x is ?or\ghly    
bl5d$ & melt$4 ,p\r ?is ov] slices (    
delicately br[n$ toa/1 s]v+ hot4  ,c(fee

 ,royal  ,take ( ! be/ ,mo*a c(fee "o   
"p1 ( ! be/ ,java c(fee two p>ts4 ,put  
six tablespoonfuls ( ! mixture into a   
b[l & add an egg1 well beat54 ,/ir !    
mixture five m9utes4 ,add half a cup (  
cold wat]1 cov] tightly & let /& sev]al 
h\rs4 ,put into a c(feepot ! c(fee      
mixture & add f\r l>ge cups ( boil+     
wat]1 /irr+ con/antly4 ,let x boil      
briskly = five m9utes only !n set on !  
back ( ! /ove five m9utes4 ,be=e s]v+   
add a small tablespoonful ( pure ,fr5*  
br&y to ea* cup4 ,sweet5 to ta/e4  ,re9a
 ,cabot  ,mix at table & s]ve on hot1   
toa/$ ,b5t's biscuit4 ,take a qu>t] ( a 
p\nd ( ripe1 d>k ,roque=t *eese & rub ) 
a piece ( butt] ! size ( a walnut until 
smoo?1 add+ a teaspoonful ( ,worce/]%ire
 sauce & a w9eglassful ( %]ry1 ) a p9* (
 paprika1 rubb+ until x is smoo?4 ,?is  
is be/ mix$ 9 %all[ b[l or s\p plate4   
,virg9ia ,egg ,nog  ,beat sep>ately !   
yolks & :ites ( t5 eggs1 ! yolks to a   
s(t cream4 ,to ! beat5 yolks add "o p\nd
 ( granulat$ sug>1 beat+ until fully    

bl5d$ & v light4 ,let "o qu>t ( fre%    
milk come to a boil & p\r ov] ! yolk (  
egg & sug>1 /irr+ con/antly until well  
bl5d$4 ,to ?is add "o gill ( ,fr5* br&y 
or "o-half p9t ( good :isky4 ,on top (  
?is place ! beat5 :ite ( egg & grat$    
nutmeg4 ,s]ve ei!r hot or cold4  ,m9t   
,julep  ,bruise sev]al sprigs ( m9t 9 a 
mix+ glass ) pulv]iz$ sug>4 ,fill !     
glass ) ice & p\r ov] x a jigg] ( :isky4
 ,let /& = t5 m9utes & !n put 9 a da% ( 
,jamaica rum4 ,dress ) sprigs ( m9t1 &  
spr9kle ) p[d]$ sug>4 ,s]ve ) /raws4    
,index    ,bills ( ,f>e ,beef/eak       
,spani% ,cel]y ,victor ,*ick51 ,c\ntry  
,/yle    ,9 ! ,%ell    ,jambalaya       
,leon d',oro    ,a la ,napoli    ,pie   
7,spani%7    ,portola ,*ili ,ri5as ,clam
 ,fritt]s    ,*[d] ,c(fee ,royal ,crab  
,l\is    ,/ew ,dess]t 7,italian7 ,egg   
,nog 7,virg9ia7 ,eggs1 ,spani%    ,)    
,w9e    ,des ,soliel ,fi%3 ,soles ) ,w9e
    ,sole ,edw>d ,,vii    ,s&-dab       
,fillet1 ,cold ,fritto ,mi/o ,lob/] a la
 ,newburg ,lamb ,*ops ,m>9ade ,mussels  

,m>9i]e ,mu%rooms1 ,grill$ ,m9t ,julep  
,m5u 7,model7 ,oy/]s a la ,catalan    ,a
 la ,p\lette    ,omelette ,pea*es a la  
,pr9cesse ,plank$ ,fillet ,mignon       
,pol5ti ,quajatole en ,mole ,rice1      
,spani%    ,milanaise    ,italian ,ri5a 
,cabot ,salad1 ,italian    ,palace      
,grill    ,oy/] ,sau] ,brat5 ,sauce1    
,delmonico ,rais9    ,c>amel    ,mu%room
 ,scrapple ,%rimp ,creole1 ,anto9e      
,snails ,bordelalse ,s\p3 ,bisque (     
,crawfi%    ,creole ,gumbo    ,onion    
,sultana ,roll ,sweetbreads ,scallop$   
,turta 7,italian7 ,t\l\se ,rag\t        
,tamales ,tagli>9i des ,beaux ,arts     
,t]rap9 a la ,m>yl& ,w9es1 ,h[ to ,s]ve 
,wel% ,r>ebit ,zabao9e ,re/aurants      
,blanco's    ,bon9i's ,b>n    ,buon     
,gu/o    ,ca/ilian    ,coppa's          
,fa%ion1 ,*>lie's    ,felix    ,fior    
d',italia    ,fly ,trap    ,frank's     
,fr$ ,sol>i's    ,gi&uja    ,hang ,f>   
,l[    ,heidelb]g ,inn    ,h( ,brau     
,hotel ,/4 ,francis    ,jack's          
,jule's    ,la ,madrel9a    ,leon d',oro

    ,luna's    ,m9t    ,negro's         
,odeon    ,palace ,hotel    ,poodle ,dog
    ,poodle ,dog--,b]gez-,frank's       
,portola-,l\vre    ,ra?skell]    ,%ell  
,fi% ,grotto    ,sol>i's    ,tait's     
,te*au's    ,vesuvius ,old ,"t          
,re/aurants    ,bab's    ,baldw9 ,hotel 
,bazzuro's    ,b]gez    ,cali=nia ,h\se 
,call    ,capta9 ,cropp]    ,campi's    
,*ri/ian ,good    ,cliff ,h\se          
,cobweb ,palace    ,delmonico    ,el    
,dorado ,h\se    ,frank's    ,gobey's   
,good ,fell[s' ,grotto    ,h(fman ,h\se 
,iron ,h\se    ,johnson's ,oy/] ,h\se   
,jack's    ,l\vre    ,ma ,tanta         
,mann+'s    ,m>*&'s ,m>%all's ,*op ,h\se
    ,m>t9's    ,maison ,doree    ,nevada
    ,new ,york    ,old ,l\vre    ,p]9i's
    ,pi]re    ,poodle ,dog    ,pup      
,pet] ,job    ,palace ( ,art    ,pop    
,floyd    ,reception    ,sangu9etti's   
,tehama ,h\se    ,?ree ,trees           
,tortoni    ,?ompson's    ,viticultural 
,z9k&'s