,,the ,,elegant ,,art ,,of ,,dining ,bohemian ,san ,francisco ,its ,restaurants and ,their ,most ,famous ,recipes-- ,the ,elegant ,art of ,dining ,by ,clarence ,e4 ,edwords #aiad ,dedication ,to ,whom ,shall ,i ,dedicate ,this ,book8 ,to ,some ,good ,friend8 ,to ,some ,pleasant ,companion8 ,to ,none of ,these1 ,for ,from ,them ,came ,not ,the ,inspiration4 ,to ,whom1 ,then8 ,to ,the ,best ,of ,all ,bohemian ,comrades1 ,my ,wife4 ,foreword ,no apologies are offered for this book4 ,in fact1 we rather like it4 ,many years have been spent in gathering this information1 and naught is written in malice1 nor through favoritism1 our expressions of opinion being unbiased by favor or compensation4 ,we have made our own investigation and given our own ideas4 ,that our opinion does not coincide with that of others does not concern us in the least1 for we are pleased only with that which pleases us1 and not that with which others say we ought to be pleased4 ,if this sound egotistical we are sorry1 for it is not meant in that way4 ,we believe that each and every individual should judge for him or herself1 considering ourselves fortunate that our ideas and tastes are held in common4 ,san ,franciscans1 both residential and transient1 are a pleasure-loving people1 and dining out is a distinctive feature of their pleasure4 ,with hundreds of restaurants to select from1 each specializing on some particular dish1 or some peculiar mode of preparation1 one often becomes bewildered and turns to familiar names on the menu card rather than venture into fields that are new1 of strange and rare dishes whose unpronounceable names of themselves frequently are sufficient to discourage those unaccustomed to the art and science of cooking practiced by those whose lives have been spent devising means of tickling fastidious palates of a city of gourmets4 ,in order that those who come within our gates1 and many others who have resided here in blindness for years1 may know where to go and what to eat1 and that they may carry away with them a knowledge of how to prepare some of the dishes pleasing to the taste and nourishing to the body1 that have spread ,san ,francisco's fame over the world1 we have decided to set down the result of our experience and study of our ,bohemian population and their ways1 and also tell where to find and how to order the best special dishes4 ,over ,north ,beach way we asked the chef of a little restaurant how he cooked crab4 ,he replied3 ,the right way4 ,one often wonders how certain dishes are cooked and we shall tell you the right way4 ,it is hoped that when you read what is herein written some of our pleasure may be imparted to you1 and with this hope the story of ,san ,francisco's ,bohemianism is presented4 ,clarence ,e4 ,edwords4 ,san ,francisco1 ,california1 ,september #bb1 #aiad4 ,our ,toast ,not to the ,future1 nor to the ,past2 ,no drink of ,joy or ,sorrow2 ,we drink alone to what will last2 ,memories on the ,morrow4 ,let us live as ,old ,time passes2 ,to the ,present let ,bohemia bow4 ,let us raise on high our glasses ,to ,eternity--the ever-living ,now4 ,contents ,foreword ,the ,good ,gray ,city ,the ,land of ,bohemia ,as it was in the ,beginning ,when the ,gringo ,came ,early ,italian ,impression ,birth of the ,french ,restaurant ,at the ,cliff ,house ,some ,italian ,restaurants ,impress of ,mexico ,on the ,barbary ,coast ,the ,city ,that ,was ,passes ,sang the ,swan ,song ,bohemia of the ,present ,as it is in ,germany ,in the ,heart of ,italy ,a ,breath of the ,orient ,artistic ,japan ,old and ,new ,palace ,at the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis ,amid the ,bright ,lights ,around ,little ,italy ,where ,fish ,come ,in ,fish in ,their ,variety ,lobsters and ,lobsters ,king of ,shell ,fish ,lobster ,in ,miniature ,clams and ,abalone's ,where ,fish ,abound ,some ,food ,variants ,about ,dining ,something ,about ,cooking ,told in ,a ,whisper ,out of ,nothing ,paste ,makes ,waist ,tips and ,tipping ,the ,mythical ,land ,appendix 7,how to ,serve ,wines1 ,recipes7 ,index ,bohemian ,san ,francisco ,the best of all ways ,to lengthen our days ,is to steal a few hours ,from the night1 my dear4 ,the ,good ,gray ,city ,san ,francisco6 ,san ,francisco6 ,is there a land where the magic of that name has not been felt8 ,bohemian ,san ,francisco6 ,pleasure-loving ,san ,francisco6 ,care-free ,san ,francisco6 ,yet withal the city where liberty never means license and where ,bohemianism is not synonymous with ,boorishness4 ,it was in ,paris that a world traveler said to us3 ,san ,francisco6 ,that wonderful city where you get the best there is to eat1 served in a manner that enhances its flavor and establishes it forever in your memory4 ,were one to write of ,san ,francisco and omit mention of its gustatory delights the whole world would protest1 for in ,san ,francisco eating is an art and cooking a science1 and he who knows not what ,san ,francisco provides knows neither art nor science4 ,here have congregated the world's greatest chefs1 and when one exclaims in ecstasy over a wonderful flavor found in some dingy restaurant1 let him not be surprised if he learn that the chef who concocted the dish boasts royal decoration for tickling the palate of some epicurean ruler of foreign land4 ,and why should ,san ,francisco have achieved this distinction in the minds of the gourmets8 ,do not other cities have equally as good chefs1 and do not the people of other cities have equally as fine gastronomic taste8 ,they have all this but with them is lacking atmosphere4 ,where do we find such romanticism as in ,san ,francisco8 ,where do we find so many strange characters and happenings8 ,all lending almost mystic charm to the environment surrounding queer little restaurants1 where rare dishes are served1 and where one feels that he is in foreign land1 even though he be in the center of a high representative ,american city4 ,san ,francisco's cosmopolitanism is peculiar to itself4 ,here are represented the nations of earth in such distinctive colonies that one might well imagine himself possessed of the magic carpet told of in ,arabian ,nights ,tales1 as he is transported in the twinkling of an eye from country to country4 ,it is but a step across a street from ,america into ,japan1 then another step into ,china4 ,cross another street and you are in ,mexico1 close neighbor to ,france4 ,around the corner lies ,italy1 and from ,italy you pass to ,lombardy1 and on to ,greece4 ,so it goes until one feels that he has been around the world in an afternoon4 ,but the stepping across the street and one passes from one land to the other1 finding all the peculiar characteristics of the various countries as indelibly fixed as if they were thousands of miles away4 ,speech1 manners1 customs1 costumes and religions change with startling rapidity1 and as you enter into the life of the nation you find that each has brought the best of its gastronomy for your delectation4 ,san ,francisco has called to the world for its best1 and the response has been so prompt that no country has failed to send its tribute and give the best thought of those who cater to the men and women who know4 ,this aggregation of cuisinaire1 gathered where is to be found a most wonderful variety of food products in highest state of excellence1 has made ,san ,francisco the ,mecca for lovers of gustatory delights1 and this is why the name of ,san ,francisco is known wherever men and women sit at table4 ,it has taken us years of patient research to learn how these chefs prepare their combinations of fish1 flesh1 fowl1 and herbs1 in order that we might put them down1 giving recipes of dishes whose memories linger in the minds of world wanderers1 and to which their thoughts revert with a sigh as they partake of unsatisfactory viands in other countries and other cosmopolitan cities4 ,those to whom only the surface of things is visible are prone to express wonder at the love and enthusiasm of the ,san ,franciscan for his home city4 ,the casual visitor cannot understand the enchantment1 the mystery1 the witchery that holds one2 they do not know that we steal the hours from the night to lengthen our days because the gray1 whispering wraiths of fog hold for us the very breath of life2 they do not know that the call of the wind1 and of the sea1 and of the air1 is the inspiration that makes ,san ,francisco the pleasure-ground of the world4 ,it is this that makes ,san ,francisco the home of ,bohemia1 and whether it be in the early morning hours as one rises to greet the first gray streaks of dawn1 or as the sun drops through the ,golden ,gate to its ocean bed1 so slowly that it seems loth to leave2 whether it be in the broad glare of noon-day sun1 or under the dazzling blaze of midnight lights1 ,san ,francisco ever holds out her arms1 wide in welcome1 to those who see more in life than the dull routine of working each day in order that they may gain sufficient to enable them to work again on the morrow4 ,the ,land of ,bohemia ,bohemia6 ,what vulgarities are perpetrated in thy name6 ,how abused is the word6 ,because of a misconception of an idea it has suffered more than any other in the ,english language4 ,it has done duty in describing almost every form of license and licentiousness4 ,it has been the cloak of debauchery and the excuse for sex degradation4 ,it has been so misused as to bring the very word into disrepute4 ,to us ,bohemianism means the naturalism of refined people4 ,that it may be protected from vulgarians ,society prescribes conventional rules and regulations1 which1 like morals1 change with environment4 ,bohemianism is the protest of naturalism against the too rigid1 and1 oft-times1 absurd restrictions established by ,society4 ,the ,bohemian requires no prescribed rules1 for his or her innate gentility prevents those things ,society guards against4 ,in ,bohemia men and women mingle in good fellowship and camaraderie without finding the sex question a necessary topic of conversation4 ,they do not find it necessary to push exhilaration to intoxication2 to increase their animation to boisterousness4 ,their lack of conventionality does not tend to boorishness4 ,some of the most enjoyable ,bohemian affairs we know of have been full dress gatherings1 carefully planned and delightfully carried out2 others have been impromptu1 neither the hour1 the place1 nor the dress being taken into consideration4 ,the unrefined get everywhere1 even into the drawing rooms of royalty1 consequently we must expect to meet them in ,bohemia4 ,but the true ,bohemian has a way of forgetting to meet obnoxious personages and1 as a rule1 is more choice in the selection of associates than the vaunted #djj4 ,with the ,bohemian but one thing counts3 ,fitness4 ,money1 position1 personal appearance and even brains are of no avail if there be the bar sinister--unfit4 ,in a restaurant1 one evening1 a number of men and women were seated conspicuously at a table in the center of the room4 ,flowing neckties such as are affected by ,parisian art students were worn by the men2 all were coarse1 loud and much in evidence4 ,they not only attracted attention by their loudness and outre actions1 but they called notice by pelting other diners with missiles of bread4 ,to us they were the last word in vulgarity1 but to a young woman who had come to the place because she had heard it was so ,bohemian they were ideal1 and she remarked to her companion3 ,i do so love to associate with real ,bohemians like these4 ,can't we get acquainted with them8 ,sure1 was the response4 ,all we have to do is to buy them a drink4 ,in ,san ,francisco there are ,bohemians and ,near-,bohemians1 and if you are like the young woman mentioned you are apt to miss the real and take the imitation for the genuine article4 ,we mean no derogation of ,san ,francisco's restaurants when we say that ,san ,francisco's highest form of ,bohemianism is rarely in evidence in restaurants4 ,we have enjoyed wonderful ,bohemian dinners in restaurants1 but the other diners were not aware of it4 ,some far more interesting gatherings have been in the rooms of ,bohemian friends4 ,not always is it the artistic combination of famous chef that brings greatest delight1 for we have as frequently had pleasure over a supper of some simple dish in the attic room of a good friend4 ,this brings us to the crux of ,bohemianism4 ,it depends so little on environment that it means nothing1 and so much on companionship that it means all4 ,to achieve a comprehensive idea of ,san ,francisco's ,bohemianism let us divide its history into five eras4 ,first we have the old ,spanish days--the days before the ,gringo came4 ,then reigned conviviality held within most discreet bounds of convention1 and it would be a misnomer1 indeed1 to call the pre-pioneer days of ,san ,francisco ,bohemian in any sense of the word4 ,courtesy unfailing1 good-fellowship always in tune1 and lavish hospitality1 marked the days of the ,dons--those wonderfully considerate hosts who always placed a pile of gold and silver coins on the table of the guest chamber1 in order that none might go away in need4 ,their feasts were events of careful consideration and long preparation1 and those whose memories carry them back to the early days1 recall bounteous loading of tables when festal occasion called for display4 ,lips linger lovingly over such names as the ,vallejos1 the ,picos1 and those other ,spanish families who spread their hospitality with such wondrous prodigality that their open welcome became a by-word in all parts of the ,west4 ,but it was not in the grand fiestas that the finest and most palatable dishes were to be found4 ,in the family of each of these ,spanish ,grandees were culinary secrets known to none except the ,senora de la ,casa1 and transmitted by her to her sons and daughters4 ,we have considered ourselves fortunate in being taken into the confidence of one of the descendants of ,senora ,benicia ,vallejo1 and honored with some of her prize recipes1 which find place in this book1 not as the famous recipe of some ,bohemian restaurants but as the tribute to the spirit of the land that made those ,bohemian restaurants possible4 ,of these there is no more tasty and satisfying dish than ,spanish ,eggs1 prepared as follows3 ,spanish ,eggs ,empty a can of tomatoes in a frying pan2 thicken with bread and add two or three small green peppers and an onion sliced fine4 ,add a little butter and salt to taste4 ,let this simmer gently and then carefully break on top the number of eggs desired4 ,dip the simmering tomato mixture over the eggs until they are cooked4 ,another favorite recipe of ,mrs4 ,vallejo was ,spanish ,beefsteak prepared as follows3 ,spanish ,beefsteak ,cut the steak into pieces the size desired for serving4 ,place these pieces on a meat board and sprinkle liberally with flour4 ,with a wooden corrugated mallet beat the flour into the steak4 ,fry the steak in a pan with olive oil4 ,in another frying pan1 at the same time1 fry three good-sized onions and three green peppers4 ,when the steak is cooked sufficiently put it to one side of the pan and let the oil run to the other side4 ,on the oil pour sufficient water to cover the meat and add the onions and peppers1 letting all simmer for a few minutes4 ,serve on hot platter4 ,spanish mode of cooking rice is savory and most palatable1 and ,mrs4 ,vallejo's recipe for this is as follows3 ,spanish ,rice ,slice together three good-sized onions and three small green peppers4 ,fry them in olive oil4 ,take one-half cup of rice and boil it until nearly done1 then drain it well and add it to the frying onions and peppers4 ,fry all together until thoroughly brown1 which will take some time4 ,season with salt and serve4 ,these three recipes are given because they are simple and easily prepared4 ,many complex recipes could be given1 and some of these will appear in the part of the book devoted to recipes1 but when one considers the simplicity of the recipes mentioned1 it can readily be seen that it takes little preparation to get something out of the ordinary4 ,when the ,gringo ,came ,to its pioneer days much of ,san ,francisco's ,bohemian spirit is due4 ,when the cry of ,gold rang around the world adventurous wanderers of all lands answered the call1 and during the year following ,marshall's discovery two thousand ships sailed into ,san ,francisco ,bay1 many to be abandoned on the beach by the gold-mad throng1 and it was in some of these deserted sailing vessels that ,san ,francisco's restaurant life had its inception4 ,with the immediately succeeding years the horde of gold hunters was augmented by those who brought necessities and luxuries to exchange for the yellow metal given up by the streams flowing from the ,mother ,lode4 ,with them also came cooks to prepare delectable dishes for those who had passed the flap-jack stage1 and desired the good things of life to repay them for the hardships1 privations and dearth of woman's companionship4 ,as the male human was largely dominant in numbers it was but natural that they should gather together for companionship1 and here began the ,bohemian spirit that has marked the city for its own to the present day4 ,these men were all individualists1 and their individualism has been transmitted to their offspring together with independence of action4 ,hence comes the ,bohemianism born of individuality and independence4 ,it was only natural that the early ,san ,franciscans should foregather where good cheer was to be found1 and the old ,el ,dorado ,house1 at ,portsmouth ,square1 was really what may be called the first ,bohemian restaurant of the city4 ,so well was this place patronized and so exorbitant the prices charged that twenty-five thousand dollars a month was not considered an impossible rental4 ,next in importance was the most fashionable restaurant of early days1 the ,iron ,house4 ,it was built of heavy sheet iron that had been brought around the ,horn in a sailing vessel1 and catered well1 becoming for several years the most famed restaurant of the city4 ,here1 in ,montgomery street1 between ,jackson and ,pacific1 was the rendezvous of pioneers1 and here the ,society of ,california ,pioneers had its inception1 receiving impressions felt to the present day in ,san ,francisco and ,california history4 ,here1 also1 was first served ,chicken in the ,shell1 the dish from which so many later restaurants gained fame4 ,the recipe for this as prepared by the ,iron ,house is still extant1 and we are indebted to a lady1 who was a little girl when that restaurant was waning1 whose mother secured the recipe4 ,it was prepared as follows3 ,chicken in a ,shell ,into a kettle containing a quart of water put a young chicken1 one sliced onion1 a bay leaf1 two cloves1 a blade of mace and six pepper-corns4 ,simmer in the covered kettle for one hour and set aside to cool4 ,when cool remove the meat from the bones1 rejecting the skin4 ,cut the meat into small dice4 ,mix in a saucepan1 over a fire without browning1 a tablespoonful of butter1 a tablespoonful of flour1 then add half a pint of cream4 ,stir this constantly until it boils1 then add a truffle1 two dozen mushrooms chopped fine1 a dash of white pepper and then the dice of chicken4 ,let the whole stand in a bain marie1 or chafing dish1 until quite hot4 ,add the yolks of two eggs and let cook two minutes4 ,stir in half a glass of sherry and serve in cockle shells4 ,early ,italian ,impression ,almost coincident with the opening of the ,iron ,house an ,italian named ,bazzuro took possession of one of the stranded sailing vessels encumbering the ,bay1 and anchored it out in the water at the point where ,davis and ,pacific streets now intersect4 ,he opened a restaurant which immediately attracted attention and gained good reputation for its service and its cooking4 ,later1 when the land was filled in1 ,bazzuro built a house at almost the same spot and opened his restaurant there1 continuing it up to the time of the great fire in #aijf4 ,after the fire one of the earliest restaurants to be established in that part of the city was ,bazzuro's1 at the same corner1 and it is still run by the family1 who took charge after the death of the original proprietor4 ,here one can get the finest ,italian peasant meal in the city1 and many of the ,italian merchants and bankers still go there for their luncheons every day1 preferring it to the more pretentious establishments4 ,the ,french peasant style came a little later1 beginning in a little dining room opened in ,washington street1 just above ,kearny1 by a ,french woman whose name was a carefully guarded secret4 ,she was known far and wide as ,ma ,tanta 7,my ,aunt74 ,her cooking was considered the best of all in the city1 and her patrons sat at a long common table1 neat and clean to the last degree4 ,peasant style of serving was followed4 ,first appeared ,ma ,tanta with a great bowl of salad which she passed around1 each patron helping himself4 ,this was followed by an immense tureen of soup1 held aloft in the hands of ,ma ,tanta1 and again each was his own waiter4 ,fish1 entree1 roast1 and dessert1 were served in the same manner1 and with the black coffee ,ma ,tanta changed from servitor to hostess and sat with her guests and discussed the topics of the day on equal terms4 ,in ,california street1 just below ,dupont1 the ,california ,house boasted a great chef in the person of ,john ,somali1 who in later years opened the ,maison ,riche1 a famous restaurant that went out of existence in the fire of #aijf4 ,gourmets soon discovered that the ,california ,house offered something unusual and it became a famed resort4 ,somali's specialties were roast turkey1 chateaubriand steak and coffee frappe4 ,it is said of his turkeys that their flavor was of such excellence that one of the gourmands of that day1 ,michael ,reece1 would always order two when he gave a dinner--one for his guests and one for himself4 ,it is also said that our well-beloved ,bohemian1 ,rafael ,weill1 still holds memories of the old ,california ,house1 of which he was an habitue1 and from whose excellent chef he learned to appreciate the art and science of cooking as evidenced by the breakfasts and dinners with which he regales his guests at the present day4 ,but many of the hardy pioneers were of ,english and ,american stock and preferred the plainer foods of their old homes to the highly seasoned dishes of the ,latin chefs1 and to cater to this growing demand the ,nevada was opened in ,pine street between ,montgomery and ,kearny4 ,this place became noted for its roast beef and also for its corned beef and cabbage1 which was said to be of most excellent flavor4 ,most famous of all the old oyster houses was ,mannings1 at the corner of ,pine and ,webb streets4 ,he specialized in oysters and many of his dishes have survived to the present day4 ,it is said that the style now called ,oysters ,kirkpatrick1 is but a variant of ,manning's ,oyster ,salt ,roast4 ,at the corner of ,california and ,sansome streets1 where now stands the ,bank of ,california1 was the ,tehama ,house1 one of the most famous of the city's early hostelries1 whose restaurant was famed for its excellence4 ,the ,tehama ,house was the rendezvous of army and navy officers and high state officials4 ,lieutenant ,john ,derby1 of the ,united ,states ,army1 one of the most widely known western authors of that day1 made it his headquarters4 ,derby wrote under the names of ,john ,phoenix1 and ,squibob4 ,perini's1 in ,post street between ,grant avenue and ,stockton1 specialized in pastes and veal risotto1 and was much patronized by uptown men4 ,the original ,marchand began business in a little room in ,dupont street1 between ,jackson and ,washington1 which district at that time had not been given over to the ,chinese1 and he cooked over a charcoal brazier1 in his window1 in view of passing people who were attracted by the novelty and retained by the good cooking4 ,with the extension of his fame he found his room too small and he rented a cottage at ,bush and ,dupont street1 but his business grew so rapidly that he was compelled to move to more commodious quarters at ,post and ,dupont and later to a much larger place at ,geary and ,stockton1 where he enjoyed good patronage until the fire destroyed his place4 ,there is now a restaurant in ,geary street near ,mason which has on its windows in very small letters ,michael1 formerly of1 and then in bold lettering1 ,marchands4 ,but ,michael has neither the art nor the viands that made ,marchands famous1 and he is content to say that his most famous dish is tripe--just plain1 plebeian tripe4 ,christian ,good1 at ,washington and ,kearny1 ,big ,john1 at ,merchant street between ,montgomery and ,sansome1 ,marshall's ,chop ,house1 in the old ,center ,market1 and ,johnson's ,oyster ,house1 in a basement at ,clay and ,leidesdorff streets1 were all noted places and much patronized1 the latter laying the foundation of one of ,san ,francisco's ,first ,families4 ,martin's was much patronized by the ,old ,comstock crowd1 and this was the favorite dining place of the late ,william ,c4 ,ralston4 ,one of the most famous restaurants of the early '#gjs was the ,mint1 in ,commercial street1 between ,montgomery and ,kearny1 where the present restaurant of the same name is located4 ,it was noted for its ,southern cooking and was the favorite resort of ,w4 ,w4 ,foote and other prominent ,southerners4 ,the kitchen was presided over by old ,billy ,jackson1 an old-time ,southern darkey1 who made a specialty of fried chicken1 cream gravy1 and corn fritters4 ,birth of the ,french ,restaurant ,french impression came strongly about this time1 and the ,poodle ,dog1 of ,paris1 had its prototype at ,bush and ,dupont streets4 ,this was one of the earliest of the type known as ,french ,restaurants1 and numerous convivial parties of men and women found its private rooms convenient for rendezvous4 ,old ,pierre of later days1 who was found dead out on the ,colma road some two years after the fire of #aijf1 was a waiter at the ,poodle ,dog when it started1 and by saving his tips and making good investments he was able to open a similar restaurant at ,stockton and ,market1 which he called the ,pup4 ,the ,pup was famous for its frogs' legs a la poulette4 ,in this venture ,pierre had a partner1 to whom he sold out a few years later and then he opened the ,tortoni in ,o',farrell street1 which became one of the most famous of the pre-fire restaurants1 its table d'hote dinners being considered the best in the city4 ,when ,claus ,spreckels built the tall ,spreckels building ,pierre and his partner opened the ,call restaurant in the top stories4 ,with the fire both of the restaurants went out of existence1 and the old proprietor of the ,poodle ,dog having died1 ,pierre and a partner named ,pon bought the place1 and for a year or so after the fire it was one of the best ,french restaurants in the city4 ,after ,pierre's untimely death the restaurant was merged with ,bergez and ,frank's1 and is now in ,bush street above ,kearny4 ,much romance attached to ,pierre1 it being generally believed that he belonged to a wealthy ,french family1 because of his education1 his unfailing courtesy1 his ready wit and his gentility4 ,pierre specialized in fish cooked with wine1 and as a favor to his patrons he would go to the kitchen and prepare the dish with his own hands4 ,in ,o',farrell street the ,delmonico was one of the most famous of the ,french restaurants until the fire4 ,it was several stories high1 and each story contained private rooms4 ,carriages drove directly into the building from the street and the occupants went by elevator to soundproof rooms above1 where they were served by discreet waiters4 ,the ,poodle ,dog1 the ,pup1 ,delmonico's1 ,jacques1 ,frank's1 the ,mint1 ,bergez1 ,felix and ,campi's are the connecting links between the fire and the pioneer days4 ,some of them still carry the names and memories of the old days4 ,all were noted for their good dinners and remarkably low prices4 ,shortly after the fire ,blanco1 formerly connected with the old ,poodle ,dog1 opened a place in ,o',farrell street1 between ,hyde and ,larkin1 calling it ,blanco's4 ,during the reconstruction period this was by far the best restaurant in the city1 and it is still one of the noted places4 ,later ,blanco opened a fine restaurant in ,mason street1 between ,turk and ,eddy1 reviving the old name of the ,poodle ,dog1 and here all the old traditions have been revived4 ,both of these savor of the old type of ,french restaurants1 catering to a class of quiet spenders who carefully guard their indiscretions4 ,in the early '#ejs and '#fjs the most noted places were not considered respectable enough for ladies1 and at restaurants like the ,three ,trees1 in ,dupont just above ,bush street1 ladies went into little private rooms through an alley4 ,peter ,job saw his opportunity and opened a restaurant where special attention was paid to lady patrons1 and shortly after the ,new ,york restaurant1 in ,kearny street1 did the same4 ,merging the post-pioneer1 era with the pre-fire era came the ,maison ,doree1 which became famous in many ways4 ,it was noted for oysters a la poulette1 prepared after the following recipe3 ,oysters a ,la ,poulette ,one-half cup butter1 three tablespoons flour1 yolks of three eggs4 ,one pint chicken stock 7or veal71 one tablespoonful lemon juice1 one-eighth teaspoon pepper1 one level teaspoon salt4 ,beat the butter and flour together until smooth and white4 ,then add salt1 pepper and lemon juice4 ,gradually pour boiling stock on this mixture and simmer for ten minutes4 ,beat the yolks of eggs in a saucepan1 gradually pouring the cooked sauce upon them4 ,pour into a double boiler containing boiling water in lower part of utensil4 ,stir the mixture for one and one-half minutes4 ,into this put two dozen large oysters and let cook until edges curl up and serve hot4 ,captain ,cropper1 an old ,marylander1 had a restaurant that was much patronized by good livers1 and in addition to the usual ,southern dishes he specialized on terrapin a la ,maryland1 sending back to his native ,state for the famous diamond-back terrapin4 ,his recipe for this was as follows3 ,terrapin a ,la ,maryland ,cut a terrapin in small pieces1 about one inch long1 after boiling it4 ,put the pieces in a saute pan with two ounces of sweet butter1 salt1 pepper1 a very little celery salt1 a pinch of paprika4 ,simmer for a few minutes and then add one glass of sherry wine1 which reduce to half by boiling4 ,then add one cup of cream1 bring to a boil and thicken with two yolks of eggs mixed with a half cup of cream4 ,let it come to a near boil and add half a glass of dry sherry and serve4 ,you may thicken the terrapin with the following mixture3 ,two raw yolks of eggs1 two boiled yolks of eggs1 one ounce of butter1 one ounce corn starch4 ,rub together and pass through a fine sieve4 ,uncle ,tom's ,cabin1 ,tony ,oakes1 the ,hermitage1 and ,cornelius ,stagg's were noted road-houses where fine meals were served1 but these are scarcely to be considered as ,san ,francisco ,bohemian restaurants4 ,the ,reception1 on the corner of ,sutter and ,webb streets1 which continued up to the time of the fire1 was noted for its terrapin specialties1 but it was rather malodorous and ladies who patronized it usually went in through the ,webb street entrance to keep from being seen4 ,the old ,baldwin ,hotel1 which stood where the ,flood building now stands1 at the corner of ,market and ,powell and which was destroyed by fire some fourteen years ago1 was the favorite resort of many of the noted men of the ,west1 and the grill had the distinction of being the best in ,san ,francisco at that time4 ,the grill of the ,old ,palace ,hotel was also of highest order1 and this was especially true of the ,ladies' ,grill which was then1 as now1 noted for its artistic preparation of a wondrous variety of good things4 ,probably the most unique place of the pioneer and post-pioneer eras was the ,cobweb ,palace1 at ,meiggs's ,wharf1 run by queer old ,abe ,warner4 ,it was a little ramshackle building extending back through two or three rooms filled with all manner of old curios such as comes from sailing vessels that go to different parts of the world4 ,these curios were piled indiscriminately everywhere1 and there were boxes and barrels piled with no regard whatever for regularity4 ,this heterogeneous conglomeration was covered with years of dust and cobwebs1 hence the name4 ,around and over these played bears1 monkeys1 parrots1 cats1 and dogs1 and whatever sort of bird or animal that could be accommodated until it had the appearance of a small menagerie4 ,warner served crab in various ways and clams4 ,in the rear room1 which was reached by a devious path through the debris1 he had a bar where he served the finest of imported liquors1 ,french brandy1 ,spanish wines1 ,english ale1 all in the original wood4 ,he served no ordinary liquor of any sort1 saying that if anybody wanted whiskey they could get it at any saloon4 ,he catered to a class of men who knew good liquors1 and his place was a great resort for children1 of whom he was fond and who went there to see the animals4 ,the frontispiece of this book is from one of the few existing 7if not the only one7 photographs of the place4 ,equally unique1 yet of higher standard1 was the ,palace of ,art1 run by the ,hackett brothers1 in ,post street near ,market4 ,here were some of the finest paintings and marble carvings to be found in the city1 together with beautiful hammered silver plaques and cups4 ,curios of all sorts were displayed on the walls1 and among them were many queer wood growths showing odd shapes as well as odd colorings4 ,a large and ornate bar extended along one side of the immense room and tables were placed about the room and in a balcony that ran along one side4 ,here meals were served to both men and women1 the latter being attracted by the artistic display and unique character of the place4 ,this was destroyed by the fire and all the works of art lost4 ,at the ,cliff ,house ,three times destroyed by fire1 and three times rebuilt1 the ,cliff ,house stands on a rocky promontory overlooking the ,sundown ,sea1 where ,san ,francisco's beach is laved by the waves of the ,ocean4 ,since the first ,cliff ,house was erected this has been a place famous the world over because of its scenic beauty and its overlooking the ,seal ,rocks1 where congregate a large herd of sea lions disporting much to the edification of the visitors4 ,appealing from its romantic surroundings1 interesting because of its history1 and attractive through its combination of dashing waves and beautiful beach extending miles in one direction1 with the rugged entrance to ,golden ,gate in the other1 with the mysterious ,farallones in the dim distance1 the ,cliff ,house may well be classed as one of the great ,bohemian restaurants of ,san ,francisco4 ,lovers of the night life know it well for it is the destination of many an automobile party4 ,during the day its terraces are filled with visitors from abroad who make this a part of their itinerary1 and here1 as they drink in the wondrous beauty of the scene spread before them1 partake of well prepared and well served dishes such as made both the ,cliff ,house and ,san ,francisco well and favorably known and whose fame is not bounded by the continent4 ,but for a most pleasant visit to the ,cliff ,house one should choose the early morning hours1 and go out when the air is blowing free and fresh from the sea1 the waves cresting with amber under the magic touch of the easterly sun4 ,select a table next to one of the western windows and order a breakfast that is served here better than any place we have tried4 ,this breakfast will consist of broiled breast of young turkey1 served with broiled ,virginia ham with a side dish of corn fritters4 ,when you sit down to this after a brisk ride out through ,golden ,gate ,park1 you have the great sauce1 appetite1 and with a pot of steaming coffee whose aroma rises like the incense to the ,sea ,gods1 you will feel that while you have thought you had good breakfasts before this1 you know that now you are having the best of them all4 ,of course there are many other good things to order if you like1 but we have discovered nothing that makes so complete a breakfast as this4 ,some ,italian ,restaurants ,is everybody happy8 ,oh1 it is only nine o'clock and we've got all night4 ,it was a clear1 fresh young voice1 full of the joy of living and came from a young woman whose carefree air seemed to say of her existence as of the night ,we've got all life before us4 ,the voice1 the healthful face and vigorous form1 the very live and joyous expression were all significant of the time and place4 ,it was ,sunday night and the place was ,steve ,sanguinetti's1 with roisterers in full swing and every table filled and dozens of patrons waiting along the walls ready to take each seat as it was emptied4 ,here were young men and women just returned from their various picnics across the ,bay to their one great event of the week--a ,sunday dinner at ,sanguinetti's4 ,over in one corner of the stifling room1 on a raised platform1 sat two oily and fat negroes1 making the place hideous with their ribald songs and the twanging of a guitar and banjo4 ,when1 a familiar air was sounded the entire gathering joined in chorus1 and when such tunes as ,there'll ,be a ,hot ,time in the ,old ,town ,tonight came1 the place was pandemonium4 ,yet through it all perfect order was kept by the fat proprietor1 his muscular bouncer and two policemen stationed at the doors4 ,noise was rather invited than frowned upon1 and the only line drawn regarding conduct was the throwing of bread4 ,probably ,steve did not want it wasted4 ,it was all free and easy and nobody took offense at anything said or done4 ,in fact if one were squeamish about such things ,sanguinetti's was no place for him or her4 ,one found one's self talking and laughing with the people about as if they were old friends4 ,it made no difference how you were dressed1 nor how dignified you tried to be1 it was all one with the crowd around the tables4 ,if you wished to stay there in comfort you had to be one of them1 and dignity had to be left outside or it would make you so uncomfortable that you would carry it out1 to an accompaniment of laughter and jeers of the rest of the diners4 ,so far as eating was concerned that was not one of the considerations when discussing ,sanguinetti's4 ,it was a table d'hote dinner served with a bottle of ,dago red1 for fifty cents4 ,you gave the waiter a tip of fifteen cents or two bits as you felt liberal1 and he was satisfied4 ,if you were especially pleased you gave the darkeys ten cents1 not because you enjoyed the music1 but just because4 ,the one merit of ,sanguinetti's before the fire was the fact that all the regular customers were unaffected and natural4 ,they came from the factories1 canneries1 shops1 and drays1 and after a week of heart-breaking work this was their one relaxation and they enjoyed it to the full4 ,many people from the residential part of the city1 and many visitors at the hotels1 went there as a part of slumming trips1 but the real sentiment was expressed by the young girl when she sang out ,is everybody happy8 ,sanguinetti still has his restaurant1 and there is still to be found the perspiring darkeys1 playing and singing their impossible music1 and a crowd still congregates there1 but it is not the old crowd for this1 like all things else in ,san ,francisco1 has changed1 and instead of the old-time assemblage of young men and women whose lack of convention came from their natural environment1 there is now a crowd of young and old people who patronize it because they have heard it is so ,bohemian4 ,thrifty hotel guides take tourists there and tell them it is the only real ,bohemian restaurant in ,san ,francisco1 and when the outlanders see the antics of the people and listen to the ribald jests and bad music of the darkeys1 they go back to their hotels and tell with bated breath of one of the most wonderful things they have ever seen1 and it is one of the wonderful things of their limited experience4 ,among the pre-fire restaurants of note were several ,italian places which appealed to the ,bohemian spirit through their good cooking and absence of conventionality1 together with the inexpensiveness of the dinners4 ,among these were the ,buon ,gusto1 the ,fior d',italia1 ,la ,estrella1 ,campi's and the ,gianduja4 ,of these ,campi's1 in ,clay street below ,sansome1 was the most noted1 and the primitive style of serving combined with his excellent cooking brought him fame4 ,all of these places1 or at least restaurants with these names1 are still in existence4 ,jule's1 the ,fly ,trap1 the ,st4 ,germain and the ,cosmos laid claim to distinction through their inexpensiveness1 up to the time of the fire4 ,all of these names are still to be seen over restaurants and they are still in that class1 ,jule's1 possibly1 being better than it was before the fire4 ,a good dinner of seven or eight courses1 well cooked and well served1 could be had in these places for fifty cents4 ,lombardi's was of the same type but his price was but twenty-five cents for a course dinner in many respects the equal of the others4 ,pop ,floyd1 recently killed by his bartender in an altercation1 had a place down in ,california street much patronized by business men4 ,he had very good service and the best of cooking1 and for many years hundreds of business men gathered there at luncheon in lieu of a club4 ,the place is still in existence and good service and good food is to be had there1 but it has lost its ,bohemian atmosphere4 ,in ,pine street above ,montgomery was the ,viticultural1 a restaurant that had great vogue owing to the excellence of its cooking4 ,its specialty was marrow on toast and broiled mushrooms1 and game4 ,to speak of ,bohemian ,san ,francisco and say nothing of the old ,hoffman saloon1 on ,second and ,market streets1 would be like the play of ,hamlet with ,hamlet left out4 ,pop ,sullivan1 or ,billy ,sullivan1 according to the degree of familiarity of the acquaintance1 boasted of the fact that from the day this place opened until he sold the doors were closed but once1 the keys having been thrown away on opening day4 ,during all the years of its existence the only day it was closed was the day of the funeral of ,sullivan's mother4 ,here was the most magnificent bar in ,san ,francisco1 and in connection was a restaurant that catered to people who not only knew good things but ordered them4 ,the back part of the place with entrance on ,second street was divided off into little rooms with tables large enough for four4 ,these rooms were most lavish in their decoration1 the most interesting feature being that they were all made of different beautiful woods1 highly polished4 ,woods were here from all parts of the world1 each being distinctive4 ,in these rooms guests were served with the best the market afforded1 by discreet darkeys4 ,this place was the best patronized of all the ,bohemian resorts of the city up to the time of the fire4 ,one of the special dainties served were the ,hoffman ,house biscuits1 light and flaky1 such as could be found nowhere else4 ,out by ,marshall ,square1 by the ,city ,hall1 was ,good ,fellow's ,grotto1 started by ,techau1 who afterward built and ran the ,techau ,tavern4 ,this place was in a basement and had much vogue among politicians and those connected with the city government4 ,it specialized on beefsteaks4 ,under the ,st4 ,ann building1 at ,eddy and ,powell streets1 was the ,louvre1 started and managed by ,carl ,zinkand1 who afterward opened the place in ,market above ,fourth street1 called ,zinkand's4 ,this was distinctly ,german in appointments and cooking and was the best of its kind in the city4 ,under the ,phelan building at ,o',farrell and ,market was the ,old ,louvre in which place one could get ,german cooking1 but it was not a place that appealed to those who knew good service4 ,bab's had a meteoric career and was worthy of much longer life1 but ,babcock had too high an idealization of what ,san ,francisco wanted4 ,he emulated the ,parisian restaurants in oddities1 one of his rooms being patterned after the famous ,cabaret de la ,mort1 and one dined off a coffin and was lighted by green colored tapers affixed to skulls4 ,aside from its oddities it was one of the best places for a good meal for ,bab had the art of catering down to a nicety4 ,there were rooms decorated to represent various countries and in each room you could get a dinner of the country represented4 ,thompson's was another place that was too elaborate for its patronage and after a varied existence from the old ,oyster ,loaf to a cafeteria ,thompson was compelled to leave for other fields and ,san ,francisco lost a splendid restaurateur4 ,he opened the place under the ,flood building1 after the fire1 in most magnificent style1 taking in two partners4 ,the enormous expense and necessary debt contracted to open the place was too much and ,thompson had to give up his interest4 ,this place is now running as the ,portola-,louvre4 ,much could be written of these old-time restaurants1 and as we write story after story amusing1 interesting1 and instructive come to mind1 each indicative of the period when true ,bohemianism was to be found in the ,city that ,was4 ,an incident that occurred in the old ,fior d',italia well illustrates this spirit of camaraderie1 as it shows the good-fellowship that then obtained4 ,we went to that restaurant for dinner one evening1 and the proprietor1 knowing our interest in human nature studies1 showed us to a little table in the back part of the room1 where we could have a good view of all the tables4 ,our table was large enough to seat four comfortably1 and presently1 as the room became crowded1 the proprietor1 with many excuses1 asked if he could seat two gentlemen with us4 ,they were upper class ,italians1 exceedingly polite1 and apologized profusely for intruding upon us4 ,in a few minutes another gentleman entered and our companions at once began frantic gesticulations and called him to our table1 where room was made and another cover laid4 ,again and again this occurred until finally at a table suited for four1 nine of us were eating1 laughing1 and talking together1 we being taken into the comradeship without question4 ,when it came time for us to depart the entire seven rose and stood1 bowing as we passed from the restaurant4 ,impress of ,mexico ,running through all the fabric of ,san ,francisco's history is the thread of ,mexican and ,spanish romance and tradition1 carrying us back to the very days when the trooper sent out by ,portola first set eyes on the great inland sea now known as ,san ,francisco ,bay4 ,it would seem that the cuisinaire most indelibly stamped on the taste of the old ,san ,franciscan would1 therefore1 be of either ,spanish or ,mexican origin4 ,that this is not a fact is because among the earliest corners to ,california after it passed from ,mexican hands to those of the ,united ,states1 were ,french and ,italian cooks1 and the bon vivants of both lands who wanted their own style of cooking4 ,while the ,spanish did not impress their cooking on ,san ,francisco1 it is the cuisine of the ,latin races that has given to it its greatest gastronomic prestige1 and there still remains from those very early days recipes of the famous dishes which had their beginnings either in ,spain or ,mexico4 ,there is much misconception regarding both ,spanish and ,mexican cooking1 for it is generally accepted as a fact that all ,mexican and ,spanish dishes are so filled with red pepper as to be unpalatable to the normal stomach of those trained to what is called plain ,american cooking4 ,certain dishes of ,mexican and ,spanish origin owe their fine flavor to discriminating use of chili caliente or chili dulce1 but many of the best dishes are entirely innocent of either4 ,the difference between ,spanish and ,mexican cooking is largely a matter of sentiment4 ,it is a peculiarity of the ,spaniard that he does not wish to be classed as a ,mexican1 and on the other hand the ,mexican is angry if he be called a ,spaniard4 ,but the fact remains that their cooking is much alike1 so much so1 in fact1 as to be indistinguishable except by different names for similar dishes1 and frequently these are the same4 ,the two famous and world-known dishes of this class of cooking are tortillas and tamales4 ,it is generally supposed that both of these are the product of ,mexico1 but this is not the case4 ,the tamale had its origin in ,spain and was carried to ,mexico by the conquistadors1 and taken up as a national dish by the natives after many years4 ,the tortilla1 on the other hand1 is made now exactly as it was made by the ,mexican ,indian when the ,spanish found the country4 ,the aborigine prepared his corn on a stone metate and made it into cakes by patting it with the hand1 then cooked it on a hot stone before an open fire4 ,it is still made in that manner in the heart of ,mexico1 and we could tell a story of how we saw this done one night in the midst of a dense tropical forest1 while muleteers and mozas of a great caravan sat around their little campfires1 whose fitful light served to intensify the weird appearance of the shadows of the ,indians as they passed to and fro among their packs1 but this is not the place for such stories4 ,of the old ,mexican restaurants1 those of us who can look back to the days of a quarter of a century ago remember old ,felipe and ,maria1 the ,mexican couple who kept the little place in the alley back of the old county jail1 off ,broadway4 ,here one had to depend entirely upon sentiment1 or rather sentimentality1 to be pleased4 ,the cooking was truly ,mexican for it included the usual ,mexican disregard for dirt4 ,chattering monkeys and parrots were hanging around the kitchen1 peering into pots and fingering viands1 and they served to attract attention from myriads of cockroaches that swarmed about the walls4 ,one could go to this place just on the theory that one is willing to try anything once1 but aside from its picturesque old couple1 and its ,dantesque appearance1 it offered nothing to induce a return unless it was to entertain a friend4 ,everyone who lived in ,san ,francisco before the fire remembers ,ricardo1 he of the one eye1 who served so well at ,luna's1 on ,vallejo and ,dupont streets4 ,ricardo had but one eye but he could see the wants of his patrons much better than many of the later day waiters who have two4 ,luna's brought fame to ,san ,francisco and in more than one novel of ,san ,francisco life it was featured4 ,entering the place one came into the home life of the ,luna family1 and reached the dining room through the parlor1 where ,mrs4 ,luna1 busy with her drawn work1 and all the little ,lunas and the neighbors and their children foregathered in the window spaces behind the torn ,nottingham curtains which partially concealed the interior from passers on the street4 ,the elder sons and daughters attended to the wants of those who fancied any of the curios displayed in the long showcase that extended from the door to the rear of the room4 ,passing through this family group one came to the curtained dining room proper1 although there were a number of tables in the family parlor to be used in case of a rush of patrons4 ,luna's dinners were a feature of the old ,san ,francisco4 ,they were strictly ,mexican1 from the unpalatable soup 7,mexicans do not understand how to make good soup7 to the dulce served at the close of the meal4 ,first came the appetizers in form of thin slices of salami and of a peculiar ,mexican sausage1 so extremely hot with chili pepino as to immediately call for a drink of claret to assuage the burning4 ,then came the soup which we experienced ones always passed over4 ,the salad of modern tables was replaced by an enchilada1 and then came either chili con carne or chili con polle according to the day of the week1 ,sundays having as the extra attraction the chili con pollo1 or chicken with pepper4 ,in place of bread they served tortillas1 which were rolled and used as a spoon or fork if one were so inclined4 ,following this was what is known among unenlightened as stuffed pepper1 but which is called by the ,spanish1 from which country it gets its name1 chili reinas4 ,to signify the close of the meal came frijoles fritas or fried beans1 and these were followed by the dessert consisting of some preserved fruit or of a sweet tamale4 ,fifty cents paid the bill and a tip of fifteen cents to ,ricardo made him as happy and as profuse with his thanks as the present day waiter on receipt of half a dollar4 ,accepting ,luna's as the best type of the ,mexican restaurant of the days before the fire1 our inquiry developed the fact that the dish on which he specialized was chili reinas1 and this is the recipe he used in their preparation3 ,chili ,reinas ,roast large bell peppers until the skin turns black4 ,wash in cold water and rub off the blackened skin4 ,cut around the stem and remove the seed and coarse veins4 ,take some dry ,monterey cheese1 grated fine1 and with this fill the peppers1 closing the end with a wooden toothpick4 ,prepare a batter made as follows3 ,beat the yolks and whites of six eggs separately1 then mix1 and stir in a little flour to make a thin batter4 ,have a pan of boiling lard ready and after dipping the stuffed pepper into the batter dip it into the lard4 ,remove quickly and dip again in the batter and then again in the lard where it is to remain until fried a light1 golden brown1 keeping the peppers entirely covered with the boiling lard4 ,take the seeds of the peppers1 one small white onion and two tomatoes1 and grind all together into a pulp1 add a little salt and let cook ten minutes4 ,when the chilies are fried turn the remainder of the batter into the tomatoes and boil twenty minutes1 then turn this sauce over the peppers4 ,this is a most delicious dish and can be varied by using finely ground meat to stuff the peppers instead of ,the cheese4 ,mexican restaurants of the present day in ,san ,francisco are a delusion1 and unsatisfactory4 ,on the ,barbary ,coast ,much has been said and more printed regarding ,san ,francisco's ,barbary ,coast--much of truth and much mythical4 ,probably no other individual district has been so instrumental in giving to people of other parts of the country an erroneous idea of ,san ,francisco4 ,it is generally accepted as a fact that in ,barbary ,coast ,vice flaunted itself in reckless abandon before the eyes of the world1 showing those things usually concealed behind walls and under cover of the darkness4 ,according to the purists here youth of both sexes was debauched1 losing both money and souls4 ,to speak of seeing ,barbary ,coast brought furtive looks and lowered voices1 as if contamination even from the thought were possible4 ,no slumming party was completed without a visit to the ,coast1 after ,chinatown's manufactured horrors had been shuddered at4 ,one cannot well speak of the ,barbary ,coast without bringing into consideration the ,social ,evil1 for here was concentrated dozens of the poor unfortunates of the underworld1 compelled to eke out miserable existence through playing on the foibles and vanities of men1 or seek oblivion in a suicide's grave4 ,we do not propose to discuss this phase of ,barbary ,coast as that is not a part of ,bohemianism4 ,we have visited the ,coast many times1 at all hours of the night1 and beyond the unconcealed license of open caresses we have seen nothing shocking to our moral sense that equaled what we have seen in ,broadway1 ,new ,york1 or in some of the most fashionable hotels and restaurants of ,san ,francisco on ,new ,year's ,eve4 ,dancing1 singing and music--all that is embodied in the wine1 women and song of the poets1 was to be found there1 but it was open1 and had none of the veiled suggestion to be found in places considered among the best4 ,in ,barbary ,coast we have seen more beautiful dancing than on any stage1 or in the famous ,moulin ,rouge1 or ,jardin ,mabile of ,paris4 ,in fact1 many of the modern dances that have become the vogue all over the country1 even being carried to ,europe1 had their origin in ,pacific street dance halls4 ,texas ,tommy1 the ,grizzly ,bear1 and many others were first danced here1 and some of the finest ,texas ,tommy dancers on eastern stages went from the dance halls of ,san ,francisco's ,barbary ,coast4 ,vice was there--yes4 ,it was open--yes4 ,but there was the attraction of light and life and laughter that drew crowds nightly4 ,barbary ,coast was a part of ,san ,francisco's ,bohemianism because of its unconventionality1 for1 you know1 there is conventionality even in ,vice4 ,here was the rendezvous of sailor men from all parts of the world1 for here they found companionship and joviality4 ,up to the time of the closing of ,barbary ,coast molestation of women on the streets of ,san ,francisco was almost unheard of4 ,since its closing it is becoming more and more hazardous for women to walk alone at night in the only large city in the world that always had the reputation of guarding its womankind4 ,the ,city ,that ,was ,passes ,times change and we change with them is well evidenced by the restaurant life of the present day ,san ,francisco4 ,now1 as before the fire1 we have the greatest restaurant city of the world--a city where home life is subordinated to the convenience of apartment dwelling and restaurant meals-but the old-time ,bohemian finds neither the same atmosphere nor the same restaurants4 ,true1 many of the old names have been retained or revived1 but there is not felt the old spirit of camaraderie4 ,old personalities have passed away and old customs have degenerated4 ,those who await ,the ,call feel that with the passing of the old city there passed much that made life worth living1 and as they prepare to cross to the ,great ,beyond1 they live in their memories of the ,past4 ,with reverence we think of the men and women of the early ,san ,francisco--those who made the city the ,home of ,bohemia--and it is with this feeling that we now come to discuss the ,bohemian restaurants of the ,new ,san ,francisco4 ,sang the ,swan ,song ,in the latter part of ,april1 #aijf1 when the fire-swept streets presented their most forbidding aspect1 and when the only moving figures to be seen after nightfall were armed soldiers guarding the little remaining of value from depredations of skulking vagabonds1 a number of the old ,bohemian spirits gathered at the corner of ,montgomery and ,commercial streets1 and gazed through the shattered windows into the old dining room where they had held many a royal feast4 ,on the blackened walls might still be seen scarred pictures1 fringed by a row of black cats along the ceiling4 ,they turned their steps out toward the ,presidio1 hunted among the ,italian refugees and there found ,coppa--he of the wonderful black cats1 and it took little persuasion to induce him to go back to his ruined restaurant and prepare a dinner1 such as had made his place famous among artists1 writers1 and other ,bohemians1 in the days when ,san ,francisco was care-free and held her arms wide open in welcome to all the world4 ,it was such a dinner as has been accorded to few4 ,few there are who have the heart to make merry amid crumbling ruins of all they held dear in the material world4 ,the favored ones who assembled there will always hold that dinner in most affectionate memory1 and to this day not one thinks of it without the choking that comes from over-full emotion4 ,it was more than a tribute to the days of old--it marked the passing of the old ,san ,francisco and the inauguration of the new4 ,it was ,bohemia's ,swan ,song1 sung by those to whom ,san ,francisco held more than pleasure--more than sentimentality4 ,it held for them close-knit ties that nothing less than a worldshaking cataclysm could sever--and the cataclysm had arrived4 ,the old ,coppa restaurant in ,montgomery street became a memory and on its ashes came the new one1 located in ,pine street between ,montgomery and ,kearny streets1 and for a number of years this remained the idol of ,bohemia until changed conditions drove the tide of patronage far up toward ,powell1 ,ellis1 ,eddy and ,o',farrell streets4 ,at that time there grew up a mushroom crop of so-called restaurants in ,columbus avenue close to ,barbary ,coast such as ,caesar's1 the ,follies ,cabaret1 ,jupiter and ,el ,paradiso1 where space was reserved in the middle of the floor for dancing4 ,coppa emulated the new idea by fitting out a gorgeous basement room at the corner of ,kearny and ,jackson1 which he called the ,neptune ,palace4 ,it represented a great grotto under the ocean1 and here throngs gathered nightly to dance and eat until the police commissioners closed all of these resorts1 as well as ,barbary ,coast4 ,coppa became financially injured by this venture and was forced to take a partner in his old restaurant1 and finally gave up his share and went beyond the city limits and opened the ,pompeiian ,garden1 on the ,san ,mateo road1 and there with his heroic little wife tried to rebuild his shrunken fortunes1 leaving the historic restaurant with its string of black cats and its memorable pictures on the walls to less skilled hands4 ,he struggled against hard times and at the time of this writing he1 with his wife1 their son and his wife1 are giving the old-time dinners and trying to make the venture a success4 ,in the old days it was considered a feat of gormandizing to go through one of ,coppa's dinners and eat everything set before you for one dollar4 ,notwithstanding the delicious dishes he prepared and the wonderful recipes1 the quantity served was so great that one would have to be possessed of enormous capacity1 indeed1 to be able to say at the end of the meal that he had eaten all that was given him4 ,in his ,pompeiian ,garden ,coppa still maintains his old reputation for most tasty viands and liberal portions1 and if one desire to find the true ,bohemian restaurant of ,san ,francisco today1 one that approaches the old spirit of the days before the fire1 he need but go out to ,coppa's and while he will not have his eyes regaled by the quaint drawings with which the old-time artists decorated the walls1 nor the hurrying footsteps along the ceiling to the famous center table where sat some of the world's most notable ,bohemians on their visits to ,san ,francisco1 nor the frieze of black cats around the cornice1 nor the ,bohemian verse1 written under inspiration of ,dago red1 he will find the same old cooking1 done by ,coppa himself4 ,we asked ,coppa what he considered his best dish and he gave us the ,irishman's reply by asking another question3 ,what do you think of it8 ,there are so many to choose from that our answer was difficult but we finally stopped at ,chicken ,portola4 ,it was then that the old smile came back to ,coppa's face4 ,ah6 ,chicken ,portola4 ,that is my own idea4 ,it is the most delicious way chicken was ever cooked4 ,this is the recipe as ,coppa gave it to us1 his little wife standing at his side and giving1 now and then1 a suggestion as ,coppa's memory halted3 ,chicken ,portola a la ,coppa ,take a fresh cocoanut and cut off the top1 removing nearly all of the meat4 ,put together three tablespoonfuls of chopped cocoanut meat and two ears of fresh1 green corn1 taken from the cob4 ,slice two onions into four tablespoonfuls of olive oil1 together with a tablespoonful of diced bacon fried in olive oil1 add one chopped green pepper1 half a dozen tomatoes stewed with salt and pepper1 one clove of garlic1 and cook all together until it thickens4 ,strain this into the corn and cocoanut and add one spring chicken cut in four pieces4 ,put the mixture into the shell of the cocoanut1 using the cut-off top as a cover1 and close tightly with a covering of paste around the jointure to keep in the flavors4 ,put the cocoanut into a pan with water in it and set in the oven1 well heated1 for one hour1 basting frequently to prevent the cocoanut's burning4 ,a bare recital of the terms of the recipe cannot bring to the uninitiated even a suspicion of the delightful aroma that comes from the cocoanut when its top is lifted1 nor can it give the slightest idea of the delicacy of the savor arising from the combination of the cocoanut with young chicken4 ,it is not a difficult dish to prepare1 and if you cannot get it at any of the restaurants1 and we are sure you cannot1 try it at home some time and surprise your friends with a dish to be found in only one restaurant in the world4 ,if you desire it at ,coppa's on your visit to ,san ,francisco you will have to telephone out to him in advance 7unless he has succeeded in getting back to the city1 which he contemplates7 so that he can prepare it for you1 and1 take our word for it1 you will never regret doing so4 ,coppa has many wonderful dishes to serve1 and he delights so much in your appreciation that he is always fearful something is wrong if you fail to do full justice to his meal4 ,he showed this one evening when he had filled a little party of us to repletion by his lavish provision for our entertainment1 and nature rebelled against anything more4 ,to us came ,coppa in tears4 ,what is the matter with the chicken1 ,doctor8 ,is it not cooked just right8 ,it was with difficulty that we made him understand that there was a limit to capacity1 and that he had fed us with such bountiful hand we could eat no more4 ,even now when we go to ,coppa's we have a little feeling of fear lest we offend him by not eating enough to convince him that we are pleased4 ,coppa's walls were always adorned with strange conceits of the artists and writers who frequented his place1 and after a picture1 or a bit of verse had remained until it was too familiar some one erased it and replaced it with something he thought was better4 ,we preserved one written by an unknown ,bohemian4 ,we give it just as it was3 ,through the fog of centuries1 dim and dense1 ,i sometimes seem to see ,the shadowy line of a backyard fence ,and a feline shape of me4 ,i hear the growl1 and yowl and howl ,of each nocturnal fight1 ,and the throaty stir1 half cry1 half purr ,of passionate delight1 ,as seeking an amorous rendezvous ,my ancient brothers go stealing ,through the purple gloom of night4 ,i've seen your eyes1 with a greenish glint2 ,you move with a feline grace2 ,and when you are pleased ,i catch the hint ,of a purr in your throat and face4 ,then ,i wonder if you are dreaming1 too1 ,of temples along the ,nile1 ,where you yowled and howled1 and loved and prowled1 ,with many a sensuous wile1 ,and borrowed the grace you own today ,from that other life in the far-away2 ,and if such dreams beguile4 ,i know that you sit by your cozy fire1 ,when shadows crowd the room1 ,and my soul responds to an old desire ,to roam through the velvety gloom1 ,so stealthily stealing1 softly shod1 ,my spirit is hurrying thence ,to the lure of an ancient mystic god1 ,whose magnet is intense1 ,where ,i know your soul1 too1 roams in fur1 ,for ,i hear it call with a throaty purr1 ,from the shadowy backyard fence4 ,bohemia of the ,present ,san ,francisco's care-free spirit was fully exemplified before the ashes of the great fire of #aijf were cold4 ,on every hand one could find little eating places established in the streets1 some made of abandoned boxes1 others of debris from the burned buildings1 and some in vacant basements and little store rooms1 while a few enterprising individuals improvised wheeled dining rooms and went from one part of the city to another serving meals4 ,the vein of humor of irrepressible effervescence of spirit born of ,bohemianism gave to these eating places high sounding names1 and many were covered with witty signs which laughed in the face of ,fate4 ,fillmore became the great business street of the city now in ashes1 and here were established the first restaurants of any pretensions1 the ,louvre being first to open an establishment that had the old-time appearance4 ,this was on the corner of ,fillmore and ,ellis1 and had large patronage1 it being crowded nightly with men and women who seemed to forget that ,san ,francisco had been destroyed4 ,thompson opened a large restaurant in ,o',farrell street1 just above ,fillmore1 and for two years or more did a thriving business1 his place being noted for its good cooking and its splendid service4 ,one of his waiters1 ,phil ,tyson1 was one of the earlier ones to go back into the burned district to begin business and he opened a restaurant called the ,del ,monte in ,powell street near ,market1 but it was too early for success and closed after a short career4 ,thompson enlisted others to join with him in opening a magnificent place under the new ,flood building at the corner of ,powell and ,market street1 but through faulty understanding of financial power ,thompson was compelled to give up his interest and the place afterward closed4 ,it has since been reopened under the name of the ,portola-,louvre1 where now crowds assemble nightly to listen to music and witness cabaret performances4 ,here1 as well as in a number of other places1 one can well appreciate the colloquial definition of cabaret4 ,that which takes the rest out of restaurant and puts the din in dinner4 ,if one likes noise and distraction while eating such places are good to patronize4 ,across the street from the ,portola-,louvre at #ae ,powell street is the modernized ,techau ,tavern now known as ,techau's4 ,here there is always good music and food well cooked and well served1 and always a lively crowd during the luncheon1 dinner and after-theatre hours4 ,the room is not large but its dimensions are greatly magnified owing to the covering of mirrors which line the walls4 ,this garish display of mirrors1 and elaborate decoration of ceiling and pillars1 gives it the appearance of the abode of ,saturnalia1 but decorum is the rule among the patrons4 ,around at #afh ,o',farrell street1 just opposite the ,orpheum theatre1 is ,tait-,zinkand restaurant1 or as it is more popularly known1 ,tait's4 ,john ,tait is the presiding spirit here1 he having made reputation as club manager1 and then as manager of the ,cliff ,house4 ,one of the partners here was ,carl ,zinkand1 who ran the old ,zinkand's before the fire4 ,while these three restaurants are of similar type neither has the pre-fire atmosphere4 ,they are lively1 always1 with music and gay throngs1 and serve good food4 ,one of the early restaurants established after the fire was ,blanco's1 at #heg ,o',farrell street1 and later ,blanco opened the ,poodle ,dog in ,mason street just above ,eddy4 ,both of these restaurants are of the old ,french type and are high class in every respect4 ,the ,poodle ,dog has a hotel attachment where one may get rooms or full apartments4 ,if you know how to order1 and do not care to count the cost when you order1 probably the best dinner at these restaurants can be had at either ,blanco's or the ,poodle ,dog4 ,the cuisine is of the best and the chefs rank at the top of their art4 ,prices are higher than at the other restaurants mentioned1 but one certainly gets the best there is prepared in the best way4 ,but the same food1 prepared equally well1 is to be found in a number of less pretentious places4 ,at the two mentioned one pays for the surroundings as well as for the food1 and sometimes this is worth paying for4 ,the restaurants of the present day that approach nearest the old ,bohemian restaurants of pre fire days1 of the ,french class1 are ,jack's in ,sacramento street between ,montgomery and ,kearny2 ,felix1 in ,montgomery street between ,clay and ,washington1 and the ,poodle ,dog-,bergez-,franks1 in ,bush street between ,kearny and ,grant avenue4 ,in either of these restaurants you will be served with the best the market affords1 cooked the right way4 ,in ,clay street opposite the ,california ,market is the ,new ,frank's1 one of the best of the ,italian restaurants1 and much patronized by ,italian merchants4 ,next to it is ,coppa's1 but it is no longer run by ,coppa4 ,in this same district is the ,mint1 in ,commercial street between ,montgomery and ,kearny streets4 ,it has changed from what it was in the old days1 but is still an excellent place to dine4 ,negro's1 at #fbe ,merchant street1 near the ,hall of ,justice1 has quite a following of those whose business attaches them to the courts1 and while many claim this to be one of the best of its class1 we believe the claim to be based less on good cooking than on the fact that the habitues are intimate1 making it a pleasant resort for them4 ,the cooking is good and the variety what the market affords4 ,in ,washington street1 just off ,columbus avenue1 is ,bonini's ,barn1 making great pretense through an unique idea4 ,so far as the restaurant is concerned the food is a little below the average of ,italian restaurants4 ,one goes there once through curiosity and finds himself in a room that has all the appearance of the interior of a barn1 with chickens and pigeons strutting around1 harness hanging on pegs1 and hay in mangers1 and all the farming utensils around to give it the verisimilitude of country4 ,tables and chairs are crude in the extreme and old-time lanterns are used for lighting4 ,it is an idea that is worth while1 but1 unfortunately1 the proprietors depend too much on the decorative feature and too little on the food and how they serve it4 ,the ,fly ,trap1 and ,charlie's ,fashion1 the first in ,sutter street near ,kearny and the other in ,market near ,sutter1 serve well-cooked foods1 especially soup1 salads1 and fish4 ,of course these are not the entire menus but of all the well-prepared dishes these are their best4 ,felix1 mentioned before1 also makes a specialty of his family soup1 which is excellent4 ,spanish dinners of good quality are to be had at the ,madrilena1 at #agg ,eddy street1 and at the ,castilian1 at #cdd ,sutter street4 ,both serve good ,spanish dinners at reasonable prices4 ,they serve table d'hote dinners1 but you can also get ,spanish dishes on special order4 ,under the ,monadnock building1 in ,market street near ,third1 is ,jule's1 well liked and well patronized because of its good cooking and good service4 ,jule is one of the noted restaurateurs of the city1 having attained high celebrity before the fire4 ,his prices are moderate and his cooking and viands of the best1 and will satisfy the most critical of the gourmets4 ,at the corner of ,market and ,eddy streets is the ,odeon1 down in a basement1 with decorations of most garish order4 ,there is a good chef and the place has quite a vogue among lovers of good things to eat4 ,probably at no place in ,san ,francisco can one find game cooked better than at ,jack's1 #fae ,sacramento street4 ,his ducks are always cooked so as to elicit high praise4 ,he has an old-style ,french table d'hote dinner which he serves for #a4be1 including wine4 ,or you may order anything in the market and you will find it cooked the best way4 ,one of the specialties of ,jack's is fish1 for which the restaurant is noted4 ,it is always strictly fresh and booked to suit the most fastidious taste4 ,as it is in ,germany ,when you see ,august 7do not fail to pronounce it ,owgoost7 in repose you involuntarily say1 that is if you understand ,german1 ,mir ist alles an1 which is the ,german equivalent of ,i should worry4 ,when ,august is in action you immediately get a thirst that nothing but a stein of cold beer will quench4 ,august is the pride of the ,heidelberg ,inn at #ce ,ellis street4 ,all you can see from the street as you pass around the corner from ,market1 is a sign and some stairs leading down into a basement1 but do not draw back just because it is a basement restaurant1 for if you do you will miss one of the very few real ,bohemian restaurants of ,san ,francisco4 ,possibly our point of view will not coincide with that of others1 but while there are dozens of other ,bohemian restaurants there is but one ,heidelberg ,inn4 ,here is absolute freedom from irksome conventionality of other people1 and none of the near ,bohemianism of so many places claiming the title4 ,at the ,heidelberg ,inn one need never fear obtrusiveness on the part of other visitors1 for here everybody attends strictly to his or her own party1 enjoying a camaraderie that has all the genuine1 whole-souled companionship found only where ,german families are accustomed to congregate to seek relaxation from the toil and worry of the day4 ,an evening spent in ,heidelberg ,inn is one replete with character study that cannot be excelled anywhere in ,san ,francisco--and this means that everybody there is worth while as a study1 from the little1 bald-headed waiter1 ,heme1 and the big1 imposing waiter1 ,august1 to the ,herr ,doctor who comes to forget the serious surgical case that has been worrying him at the hospital4 ,here you do not find obtrusive waiters brushing imaginary crumbs from your chair with obsequious hand1 nor over zealous stewards solicitous of your food's quality4 ,it is all perfect because it is made perfect by good management4 ,here are ,german families1 from ,grossfader and ,grossmutter1 down to the newest grandchild1 sitting and enjoying their beer and listening to such music as can be heard nowhere else in ,san ,francisco1 as they eat their sandwiches of limburger1 or more dainty dishes according to their tastes4 ,one can almost imagine himself in one of the famous rathskellers of ,old ,heidelberg--not at the ,schloss1 of course1 for here you cannot look down on the ,weiser as it flows beneath the windows of the great wine stube on the hill4 ,but you have the real atmosphere1 and this is enhanced by the mottoes in decoration and the flagons1 stems and plaques that adorn the pillars as well as typical ,german environment4 ,it is when the martial strains of ,de ,wacht am ,rhein are heard from the orchestra1 which of itself is an institution1 that the true camaraderie of the place is appreciated1 for then guests1 waiters1 barkeepers1 and even the eagle-eyed gray-haired manager1 join in the swelling chorus1 and you can well understand why ,german soldiers are inspired to march to victory when they hear these stirring chords4 ,but there is other music--sometimes neither inspiring nor beautiful when heard in a ,german rathskeller--the music of rag time4 ,if there is anything funnier than a ,german orchestra trying to play rag-time music we have never heard it4 ,it is unconscious humor on part of the orchestra1 consequently is all the more excruciating4 ,but if you really love good music--music that has melody and rhythm and soothing cadences1 go to the ,heidelberg ,inn and listen to the concert which is a feature of the place every evening4 ,and while you are listening to the music you can enjoy such food as is to be found nowhere else in ,san ,francisco1 for it is distinctly ,heidelbergian4 ,we asked for the recipe that they considered the very best in the restaurant1 and ,hirsch1 with a shrug of his shoulders1 said3 ,oh1 we have so many fine dishes4 ,we finally got him to select the one prized above all others and this is what ,chef ,scheiler gave us3 ,german ,sauer ,braten ,take four pounds of clear beef1 from either the shoulder or rump1 and pickle it for two days in one-half gallon of claret and one-half gallon of good wine vinegar 7not cider74 ,to the pickle add two large onions cut in quarters1 two fresh carrots and about one ounce of mixed whole allspice1 black peppers1 cloves and bay leaves4 ,when ready for cooking take the meat out of the brine and put in a roasting pan4 ,put in the oven and brown to a golden color4 ,then take it out of the roasting pan and put it into a casserole1 after sprinkling it with two ounces of flour4 ,put into the oven again and cook for half an hour1 basting frequently with the original brine4 ,when done take the meat out of the sauce4 ,strain the sauce through a fine collander and add a few raisins1 a piece of honey cake1 or ginger snaps and the meat of one fresh tomato4 ,season with salt and pepper and a little sugar to taste4 ,slice and serve with the sauce over it4 ,for those who like ,german dishes and ,german cooking it is not necessary to confine yourself to the ,heidelberg ,inn1 for both the ,hof ,brau1 in ,market just above ,fourth street1 and the ,german ,house ,rathskeller1 at ,turk and ,polk streets are good places where you can get what you want4 ,the ,hof ,brau1 however1 is less distinctively ,german as the greater number of its patrons are ,americans4 ,the specialty of the ,hof ,brau is abalone's1 and they have as a feature this shell fish cooked in several ways4 ,they also have as the chef in charge of the abalone dishes1 ,herbert1 formerly chef for one of the yacht clubs of the coast1 who claims to have the only proper recipe for making abalone's tender4 ,under ordinary circumstances the abalone is tough and unpalatable1 but after the deft manipulation of ,herbert they are tender and make a fine dish1 either fried1 as chowder or a la ,newberg4 ,in addition to abalone's the ,hof ,brau makes a specialty of little ,oregon crawfish4 ,while there is a distinctive ,german atmosphere at the ,rathskeller of the ,german ,house1 the place is too far out to gather such numbers as congregate at either the ,heidelberg or the ,hof ,brau1 but one can get the best of ,german cooking here and splendid service1 and for a quiet little ,dutch supper we know of no place that will accommodate you better than the ,rathskeller4 ,on special occasions1 when some ,german society or club is giving a dance or holding a meeting at the ,german ,house1 the ,rathskeller is the most typical ,german place in ,san ,francisco1 and if you go at such a time you will get all the atmosphere you will desire1 as well as the best the market affords in the way of good viands4 ,in the ,heart of ,italy ,what a relief it is sometimes to have a good waiter say3 ,you do not know what you want8 ,will you let me bring you the best there is in the house8 ,sometimes1 you know1 you really do not know what you want1 and usually when that is the case you are not very hungry4 ,that is always a good time to try new things4 ,it is also possible that you do not know what you want because you do not know how to order4 ,in either instance our advice is1 if the waiter gets confidential and offers his assistance you will certainly miss something if you do not accept his good offices4 ,this was the case with us1 one day when we were over at #aedi ,stockton street1 near ,washington ,square1 at the ,gianduja4 ,the proper pronunciation of this is as if it were spelled ,zhan-du-ya4 ,this is one of the good ,italian restaurants of the ,latin quarter4 ,at the ,gianduja you get the two prime essentials to a good meal--good cooking and excellent service4 ,it matters not whether you take their thirty-five cent luncheon or order a most elaborate meal1 you will find that the service is just what it ought to be4 ,we asked ,brenti what he considered his most famous dish1 and like all other proprietors1 he shrugged his shoulders and said1 with hands emphasizing his words3 ,we have so many fine dishes4 ,of course we know that1 but what do you consider the very best8 ,there is no one the 'very best'4 ,i could give you two4 ,let it be two1 then1 was our immediate rejoinder1 and here is what he gave us as the best recipes of the ,gianduja4 ,first1 let us give you an idea of the difficulty under which we secured these recipes by printing them just as he wrote them down for us1 and then we shall elaborate a little and show the result of skillful questioning4 ,this is the way he wrote the recipe for ,risotto ,milanaise3 ,risotto ala ,milanaise ,onions chop fine--marrow and little butter--rice--saffron--chicken broth--wen cook add fresh butter and ,parmesan cheese seasoned4 ,what was embodied in the words wen cook was the essential of the recipe and here is the way we got it3 ,chop one large onion fine4 ,cut a beef marrow into small dice and stir it with the chopped onion4 ,put a small piece of butter in a frying pan and into this put the onion and marrow and fry to a delicate brown4 ,now add one scant cup of rice1 stirring constantly1 and into this put a pinch of saffron that has been bruised4 ,when the rice takes on a brown color add1 slowly1 chicken broth as needed1 until the rice is thoroughly cooked4 ,then add a lump of fresh butter about the size of a walnut1 and sprinkle liberally with grated ,parmesan cheese1 seasoning to taste with pepper and salt4 ,this is to be served with chicken or veal4 ,the second recipe was for ,fritto ,misto1 and he wrote it as follows3 ,fritto ,misto ,lamb chops and brains breaded--sweetbreads--escallop of veal--fresh mushrooms--,italian squash when in season--asparagus or cauliflower--fried in fresh butter--dipped in beaten eggs--lime jus4 ,fritto ,misto means fried mixture1 and the recipe as we finally elucidated it is as follows3 ,take a lamb chop1 a piece of calf brain1 one sweetbread1 a slice of veal1 a fresh mushroom1 sliced ,italian squash1 a piece of asparagus or of cauliflower and dip these into a batter made of an egg well beaten with a little flour4 ,sprinkle these with a little lime juice and fry to a delicate brown in butter1 adding salt and pepper to taste4 ,at the ,gianduja1 as at all other ,italian restaurants not much affected by ,americans1 you will find an atmosphere of unconventionality that is delightful to the ,bohemian4 ,there is no irksome espionage on the part of other patrons1 all of whom are there for the purpose of attending strictly to their own business1 and the affairs of other diners are of no consequence to them4 ,there is freedom of expression and unconsciousness1 most pleasing after having experienced those other restaurants where it seems to be the business of all the rest of the guests to know just what you are eating and drinking4 ,there is little of the obnoxious posing that one finds in restaurants of the downtown districts1 for while ,italians1 in common with all other ,latins1 are natural born poseurs1 they are not offensive in it1 but rather impress you with the same feeling as the antics of a child4 ,one of the little1 out-of-the way restaurants of the ,italian quarter is the ,leon d',oro1 at #aebe ,grant avenue1 and it is one of the surprises of that district4 ,lazzarini1 he with the big voice1 presides over the tiny kitchen in the rear of the room devoted to public service and family affairs4 ,soft-voiced ,rita1 with her demure air and her resemblance to ,evangeline1 with her crossed apron1 strings and delicate features1 takes your order1 and soon comes the booming sound from the neighborhood of the range1 that announces to all patrons1 as well as to some who may be in the vicinity on the street1 that your order is ready1 and then everybody knows what you are eating4 ,as you sit1 either in curtained alcove or at the common table in the main room1 little ,andrea will visit you with his cat4 ,both are institutions of the place and one is1 prone to wonder how a cat can have so much patience with a little boy4 ,andrea speaks ,italian so fluently and so rapidly that it gives you the impression of a quick rushing stream of pure water1 tumbling over the stones of a steep declivity4 ,he is not yet old enough to understand that it is not everybody who knows how to speak ,italian1 but that makes not the slightest difference with him1 for he talks without ever expecting an answer4 ,lazzarini understands the art and science of cooking1 and some of the dishes he prepares are so unusual that one goes again and again to partake of them3 ,possibly his best dish is the following3 ,chicken a la ,leon ,d'oro ,cut a spring chicken into pieces4 ,place these in a pan containing hot olive oil1 and season with salt and pepper4 ,turn the chicken until it is thoroughly browned1 and add finely chopped green peppers4 ,let it cook awhile then add a finely chopped clove of garlic and a little sage4 ,put in a small glass of ,marsala wine1 tomato sauce and ,french mushrooms and let simmer for ten minutes4 ,before taking from the pan add half a tablespoonful of butter and serve on a hot plate4 ,lazzarini also makes a specialty of snails1 and they are well worth trying while you are experimenting with the unusual things to eat4 ,the recipe for these is as follows3 ,snails a la ,bordelaise ,put ten pounds of snails in a covered barrel and keep for ten days4 ,then put in a tub with a handful of salt and a quarter of a gallon of vinegar4 ,stir for twenty minutes until a foam rises1 then take out and wash thoroughly until the water runs clear4 ,put in a large pot a pint of virgin olive oil1 four large onions and eight cloves of garlic1 all chopped fine1 and a small bunch of parsley1 chopped fine4 ,put the pot over the fire and when the onions are browned stir in some white wine or ,marsala and then put in the snails4 ,cover and let simmer for thirty-five minutes4 ,while cooking add a pint of meat stock1 a little butter and some anise seed4 ,when done put in a soup tureen and serve4 ,to remove the snails use small wooden toothpicks4 ,a ,breath of the ,orient ,san ,francisco's world-famed ,chinatown1 like the rest of the city1 is changed since the big fire1 and the ,chinatown of today is but a reminiscence of the old ,oriental city that was set in the midst of the most thriving ,occidental metropolis--,the ,city ,that ,was4 ,there has never been much of ,chinatown that savored of ,bohemianism1 but it has always been the vogue for visitors to make a trip through its mysterious alleys1 peering into the fearsome dark doorways1 listening to the ominous slamming doors of the clubs1 and shuddering in a delightful horror at the recumbent opium smokers1 pointed out to them by the industrious guide4 ,and when they were taken into one of the gambling houses and shown the double doors1 and the many contrivances used to prevent police interference with the innocent games of fan tan and then were shown the secret underground passage leading from one of the gambling houses to the stage of the great ,chinese theatre1 two blocks away1 they went home ready to believe anything told them about the ways that are dark and tricks that are vain1 for they were sure the heathen ,chinee was peculiar4 ,chinese restaurant life never appealed to ,bohemians1 and when it became necessary to entertain visitors with a trip to a ,chinatown restaurant the ordinary service was of tea and rice cakes1 served from lacquered trays1 in gaudy rooms1 and the admiring visitors could well imagine themselves in far off ,cathay4 ,then came the fire and ,chinatown1 with the rest of the down-town portion of ,san ,francisco1 passed away4 ,in the rebuilding the owners of the properties concluded to give the quarter a more ,chinese aspect and pagoda like structures are now to be found in all parts of the section4 ,the curiosity of the tourist is an available asset to ,chinatown1 and with queer houses and queerer articles on sale there is always plenty of uninitiated to keep the guides busy1 but from a city of more than twenty-five thousand ,orientals in the midst of an enlightened city--an ,asiatic city that had its own laws and executed its criminals with the most utter disregard for ,american laws1 it has changed into one of the most law-abiding parts of the great city4 ,with the passing of the queue came the adoption of the ,american style of dressing1 and much of the picturesqueness of the old ,chinatown has disappeared4 ,but with the changed conditions there has come a change in the restaurant life of the quarter1 and now a number of places have been opened to cater to ,americans1 and on every hand one sees chop suey signs1 and ,chinese noodles4 ,it goes without saying that one seldom sees a ,chinaman eating in the restaurants that are most attractive to ,americans4 ,some serve both white and yellow and others serve but the ,chinese1 and a few favored white friends4 ,probably the best restaurant in ,chinatown is that of the ,hang ,far ,low ,company1 at #gbc ,grant avenue4 ,here is served such a variety of strange dishes that one has to be a brave ,bohemian1 indeed1 to partake without question4 ,ordinarily when ,chinese restaurants are mentioned but two dishes are thought of--chop suey and chow main4 ,but neither is considered among the fine dishes served to ,chinese epicures4 ,it is much as if one of our best restaurants were to advertise hash as its specialty4 ,both these dishes might be termed glorified hash4 ,the ingredients are so numerous and so varied with occasion that one is tempted to imagine them made of the table leavings1 and that is not at all pleasant to contemplate4 ,we asked one of the managers at the ,hang ,far ,low what he would order if he wished to get the best dish prepared in the restaurant1 and he was even more emphatic in his shrugs than the ,french or ,italian managers4 ,he protested that there were so many good things it was impossible to name just one as being the best4 ,you see1 we have fish fins1 they are very good4 ,snails1 ,china style4 ,very good1 too4 ,then we have turtle brought from ,china1 different from the turtle they have here1 and we cook it ,china style4 ,eels come from ,china and they are cooked ,china style1 too4 ,what is ,china style8 ,that ,i cannot tell you for the cook knows and nobody else4 ,when we cook ,china style everything is more better4 ,we have here the very best tea4 ,this may be taken as a sample of what to expect when visiting ,chinatown's restaurants1 and while we confess to having some excellent dishes served us in ,chinatown1 our preference lies in other paths of endeavor4 ,we suppose it is all in the point of view1 and our point of view is that there is nothing except superficiality in the ordinary ,chinese restaurants frequented by ,americans1 and those not so frequented are impossible because of the average ,chinaman's disregard for dirt and the usual niceties of food preparation4 ,artistic ,japan ,we wish it were in our power to describe a certain dinner as served us in a ,japanese restaurant in the days that followed the great fire4 ,desiring to observe in fitting manner a birthday anniversary1 we asked a ,japanese friend if he could secure admission for a little party at a restaurant noted for serving none but the highest class ,japanese4 ,we did not even know where the restaurant was but had heard of such a place1 and when we received word that we would be permitted to have a dinner there we invited a newspaper friend who was in the city from ,new ,york1 together with two other friends and the ,japanese1 who was the editor of the ,soko ,shimbun4 ,he took us to a dwelling house in ,o',farrell street1 having given previous notice of our coming4 ,there was nothing on the outside to indicate that it was anything but a residence1 but when we were ushered into the large front room1 we found it beautifully decorated with immense chrysanthemums1 and glittering with silver and cut glass on a magnificently arranged table4 ,in deference to the fact that all but our ,japanese friend were unaccustomed to chopsticks1 forks were placed on the table as well as the little sticks that the ,orientals use so deftly4 ,at each place was a beautiful lacquer tray1 about twelve by eighteen inches1 a pair of chopsticks1 a fork and a teaspoon4 ,before the meal was over several of us became quite expert in using the chopsticks4 ,when we were seated in came two little ,japanese women1 in full native costume1 bearing a service of tea4 ,the cups and saucers were of a most delicate blue and white ware1 with teapot to match4 ,our first cup was taken standing in deference to a ,japanese custom where all drank to the host4 ,then followed saki in little artistic bottles and saki cups that hold not much more than a double tablespoonful4 ,saki is the ,japanese wine made of rice1 and is taken in liberal quantities4 ,at each serving some one drank to some one else1 then a return of the compliment was necessary4 ,having always heard that ,orientals turned menus topsy-turvy we were not at all surprised when the little serving women brought to each of us two silver plates and set them on our trays4 ,these plates contained what appeared to be cake1 one seeming to be angel food with icing1 and the other fruit cake with the same covering4 ,with these came bowls of soup1 served in lacquer ware1 made of glutinous nests of swallows1 and also a salad made of shark fins4 ,we ate the soup and salad and found it good1 and then made tentative investigation of the cake4 ,to our great surprise we discovered the angel food to be fish and the icing was shredded and pressed lobster4 ,the fruitcake developed into pressed dark meat of chicken1 with an icing of pressed and glazed white meat of the same fowl4 ,following this came the second service of tea1 this time in cups of a rare yellow color and beautiful design1 with similar teapot4 ,the next course was a mixture of immature vegetables1 served in a sort of saute4 ,these were sprouting beans1 lentils1 peas and a number of others with which we were unfamiliar4 ,the whole was delicately flavored with a peculiar sauce4 ,after a short wait1 during which the saki bottles circulated freely1 one of the women came in bearing aloft a large silver tray on which reposed a mammoth crayfish1 or ,california lobster4 ,this appeared to be covered with shredded cocoanut1 and when it was placed before the host for serving he was at loss1 for no previous experience told him what to do4 ,it developed that the shredded mass on top was the meat of the lobster which had been removed leaving the shell-fish in perfect form4 ,it was served cold1 with a peculiar sauce4 ,now followed the piece de resistance4 ,a tub of water was brought in and in this was swimming a live fish1 apparently of the carp family4 ,after being on view for a few minutes it was removed and soon the handmaidens appeared with thinly sliced raw fish1 served with soy sauce4 ,ordinarily one can imagine nothing more repulsive than a dish of raw fish1 but we were tempted and did eat1 and found it most delicious1 delicate1 and with a flavor of raw oysters4 ,next came the third service of tea1 this time in a deep red ware4 ,then came a dessert of unusual flavor and appearance1 followed by preserved ginger and fruit4 ,it must be remembered that during the meal1 which lasted from seven until past midnight1 saki was served constantly yet no one felt its influence in more than a sense of increased exhilaration4 ,it is customary to let the emptied bottles remain on the table until the close of the meal1 and there was a mighty showing4 ,it was impossible to eat all that was set before us1 but ,japanese custom forbids such a breach of etiquette as an indication that the food was not perfection1 consequently the serving maids appeared bearing six carved teak boxes1 and placed one at each plate4 ,into these we arranged the food that was unconsumed1 and when we went away we carried it with us4 ,to cap the climax the ,japanese stripped the room of its bounteous decoration of chrysanthemums and piled them into our arms and we went home loaded with food and flowers4 ,proprietor and all his household accompanied us to the door with many bows and gesticulations1 wishing us best of luck1 and we went back to our homes in the desolated city with the feeling of having been transported to ,fairyland of the ,orient4 ,we discovered later that our ,japanese friend was of the family of the ,emperor and was here on a diplomatic mission4 ,old and ,new ,palace ,one cannot well write a book on ,bohemian restaurants of ,san ,francisco without saying something about the great hotel whose history is so intimately intertwined with that of the city since #ahgc1 when ,william ,c4 ,ralston determined that the city by the ,golden ,gate should have a hotel commensurate with its importance4 ,san ,francisco and the ,palace ,hotel were almost synonymous all over the world1 and it was conceded by travelers that nowhere else was there a hostelry to equal this great hotel4 ,to the bon vivant the grills of the ,palace ,hotel contained more to enhance the joy of living than anywhere else1 and here the chefs prided themselves with providing the best in the land1 prepared in such perfect ways as to make a meal at the ,palace the perfection of gastronomic art4 ,there are three distinct eras to the history of the ,palace ,hotel1 the first being from #ahgf to #ahij1 the second from #ahij to #aijf1 and the third from #aijf to the present day4 ,in the earlier days the grills1 both that for gentlemen and that for ladies1 were noted for their magnificent service and their wonderful cooking4 ,a breakfast in the ,ladies' ,grill1 with an omelet of ,california oysters1 toast and coffee1 was a meal long to be remembered4 ,possibly the most famous dish of the old ,palace was this one of omelet with ,california oysters1 and it was prepared in the following manner3 ,oyster ,omelet 7,for two73 ,take six eggs1 one hundred ,california oysters1 one small onion1 one tablespoonful of butter1 one tablespoonful of flour1 salt and pepper to taste4 ,beat the eggs to a froth and stir in the onion chopped fine4 ,put the eggs into an omelet pan over a slow fire4 ,mix the flour and butter to a soft paste with a little cream1 and stir in with the oysters1 adding salt and pepper to taste4 ,when the eggs begin to stiffen pour the oysters over and turn the omelet together4 ,serve on hot plate with a dash of paprika4 ,this is the recipe of ,ernest ,arbogast1 the chef for many years of the old ,palace4 ,the slightly coppery taste of the ,california oysters gives a piquancy to the flavor of the omelet that can be obtained in no other way1 and those who once ate of ,arbogast's ,california oyster omelet1 invariably called for it again and again4 ,we asked ,jules ,dauviller1 the present chef of the ,palace1 for the recipe of what he considered the best dish now prepared at the ,palace and he said he would give us two1 as it was difficult to decide which was the best and most distinctive4 ,these are the recipes as he wrote them for us3 ,planked ,fillet ,mignon ,trim some select fillet mignon of beef1 about four ounces of each1 nicely4 ,saute these in a frying pan with clarified butter on a hot fire4 ,dress on a small round plank1 about four and a half inches in diameter1 decorated with a border of mashed potatoes4 ,over the fillet mignon pour stuffed pimentoes1 covered with a sauce made of fresh mushrooms1 sauteed sec over which has been poured a little chateaubriand sauce4 ,serve chateaubriand sauce in a bowl4 ,the second is3 ,cold ,fillet of ,sand-,dabs1 ,palace ,select six nice fresh sand-dabs4 ,raise the fillets from the bone skin and pare nicely1 and season with salt and paprika4 ,arrange them in an earthenware dish4 ,cut in ,julienne one stalk of celery1 one green pepper1 one cucumber1 two or three tomatoes1 depending on their size4 ,with the bone of the sand-dab1 well cleaned1 make a stock with one bottle of ,riesling1 juice of one lemon and seasoning4 ,add chervil and tarragon4 ,season to taste and cook the ,julienne ingredients with some of the stock4 ,when the rest of the stock is boiling poach it in the fillets of sand-dab1 then remove from the fire and let get cold4 ,put the garnishing around the fillets and put on ice to get in jelly4 ,when ready to serve decorate around the dish with any kind of salad you like1 and with beets1 capers1 olives and marinated mushrooms4 ,this must be served very cold and you may serve mayonnaise sauce on the side4 ,we asked ,dauviller what he considered his most delicate salad and he gave us this recipe3 ,palace ,grill ,salad ,select three hearts of celery and cut them ,julienne4 ,cut some pineapple and pimentoes into dice4 ,mix all well together in a bowl and add mayonnaise sauce and a little whipped cream4 ,sprinkle some finely chopped green peppers on top and serve very cold4 ,at the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis ,on the morning of ,april #ah1 #aijf1 one of us stood in the doorway of the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis1 and watched approaching fires that came from three directions4 ,it was but a few hours later when all that part of the city was a mass of seething flames1 and in the ruins that lay in the wake of devastation was this magnificent hostelry4 ,before business in the down-town district was reorganized1 and while the work of removing the tangled masses of debris was still in progress the ,merchants ,association of ,san ,francisco called its members together in its annual banquet1 and this banquet was held in the basement of the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis1 the crumbling walls1 and charred and blackened timbers hidden under a mass of bunting and foliage and flowers4 ,here was emphasized the spirit of ,bohemian ,san ,francisco1 and it was one of the most merry and enjoyable of feasts ever held in the city4 ,it was made possible by the fact that the management of the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis was undaunted in the face of almost overwhelming disaster4 ,the same spirit has carried the hotel through stress of storm and it stands now1 almost as a monument to the energy of ,james ,woods1 its manager4 ,there has always been a soft spot in our hearts for the ,hotel ,st4 ,francis1 and it is here that we have always felt a most pleasurable emotion when seeking a place where good things are served4 ,whether it be in the magnificent white and gold dining room1 or the old tapestry room that has been remodeled into a dining room1 or in the electric grill below stairs1 it has always been the same4 ,we asked ,chef ,victor ,hertzler what he considered his best recipe and his answer was characteristic of him4 ,i shall give you ,sole ,edward ,,vii4 ,if this is not satisfactory ,i can give you a meat1 or a salad or a soup recipe4 ,we considered it satisfactory1 and here it is3 ,sole ,edward ,,vii ,cut the fillets out of one sole and lay them flat on a buttered pan1 and season with salt and pepper4 ,make the following mixture and spread over each fillet of sole3 ,take one-half pound of sweet butter1 three ounces of chopped salted almonds1 one-fourth pound of chopped fresh mushrooms1 a little chopped parsley1 the juice of a lemon1 salt1 pepper and a little grated nutmeg4 ,add to the pan one-half glassful of white wine and put in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,when done serve in the pan by placing it on a platter1 with a napkin under it4 ,hertzler has another recipe which he prizes greatly and which he calls ,celery ,victor1 and this is the recipe which he gave us3 ,celery ,victor ,take six stalks of celery well washed4 ,make a stock of one soup hen or chicken bones1 and five pounds of veal bones in the usual manner1 with carrots1 onions1 parsley1 bay leaves1 salt and pepper4 ,place the celery in a vessel and strain the broth over it4 ,boil until soft and let cool off in its own broth4 ,when cold press the broth out of the celery with the hand1 gently1 and place on a plate4 ,season with salt1 fresh ground black pepper1 chervil1 and one-quarter white wine vinegar with tarragon to three-quarters of best olive oil4 ,amid ,bright ,lights ,streets centering around ,powell from ,market up to ,geary1 may well be termed the ,great ,white ,way of ,san ,francisco1 if ,new ,york will permit the plagiarism4 ,here are congregated the most noted of the lively restaurants of the present day ,san ,francisco4 ,here the streets are ablaze with light at night1 and thronged with people1 for here is the restaurant and theatre district proper of the city4 ,among the restaurants deserving of special mention in this district are the two ,solaris4 ,when ,solari opened his restaurant at #ced ,geary street1 where he continues to attract good livers by the excellence of his cooking1 he at once achieved fame which has never waned4 ,it so happened that there were two brothers1 and as sometimes occurs brothers disagreed with the result that ,fred ,solari withdrew and opened a restaurant at ,geary and ,mason1 just a short distance from the original place4 ,evidently the recipe for what is considered best in both of the ,solari restaurants came from common ownership1 for each of these places gave in response to a request for its best recipe1 the following3 ,chicken ,country ,style ,cut a chicken in eight pieces and drop them into some cold milk1 seasoning with salt4 ,after soaking for a few minutes dry the chicken in flour and lay in a frying pan in good butter4 ,place in the oven and let them cook slowly1 turning them occasionally until they are nice and brown on all sides1 when remove them4 ,in the gravy put a tumblerful of cream and a pinch of paprika1 mix well and let it cook for ten minutes1 until it gets thick1 then strain and pour over the chicken and serve4 ,the following don'ts are added to the recipe3 ,don't use frozen poultry4 ,don't substitute corn starch and milk for cream4 ,around ,little ,italy ,san ,francisco holds no more interesting district than that lying around the base of ,telegraph ,hill1 and extending over toward ,north ,beach1 even as far as ,fisherman's ,wharf4 ,here is the part of ,san ,francisco that first felt the restoration impulse1 and this was the first part of ,san ,francisco rebuilt after the great fire1 and in its rebuilding it recovered all of its former characteristics1 which is more than can be said of any other part of the rebuilt city4 ,here1 extending north from ,jackson street to the ,bay1 are congregated ,italians1 ,french1 ,portuguese and ,mexicans1 each in a distinct colony1 and each maintaining the life1 manners and customs1 and in some instances the costumes1 of the parent countries1 as fully as if they were in their native lands4 ,here are stores1 markets1 fish and vegetable stalls1 bakeries1 paste factories1 sausage factories1 cheese factories1 wine presses1 tortilla bakeries1 hotels1 pensions1 and restaurants2 each distinctive and full of foreign life and animation1 and each breathing an atmosphere characteristic of the country from which the parent stock came4 ,walk along the streets on the side of ,telegraph ,hill and one can well imagine himself transported to a sunny hillside in ,italy1 for here he hears no other language than that which came from the shores of the ,mediterranean4 ,here are ,italians of all ages1 sexes and conditions of servitude1 from the padrone to the bootblack who works for a pittance until he obtains enough to start himself in business4 ,if one investigate closely it will be found that many of the people of this part of ,san ,francisco have been here for years and still understand no other language than that of their native home4 ,why should they learn anything else1 they say4 ,everybody around them1 and with whom they come in contact speaks ,italian4 ,here are the ,corsicans1 with their peculiar ideas of the vendetta and the cheapness of life in general1 and the ,sicilians and ,genoese and ,milanese4 ,here are some from the slopes of ,vesuvius or ,aetna1 with inborn knowledge of the grape and of wine making4 ,all have brought with them recipes and traditions1 some dating back for hundreds of years1 or even thousands1 to the days before the ,christian ,era was born4 ,it is just the same to them as it was across the ocean1 for they hear the same dialect and have the same customs4 ,do they desire any special delicacy from their home district1 they need but go to the nearest ,italian grocery store and get it1 for these stores are supplied direct from ,genoa or ,naples4 ,this is the reason that many of the older men and women still speak the soft dialect of their native communities1 and if you are so unfortunate as not to be able to understand them1 then it is you who are the loser4 ,do you wish to know something about conditions in ,mexico8 ,would you like to learn what the ,mexicans themselves really think about affairs down in that disturbed republic8 ,go along ,broadway west of ,grant avenue1 and then around the corner on ,stockton1 and you will see strange signs1 and perhaps you will not know that ,fonda means restaurant1 or that ,tienda1 means a store4 ,but these are the signs you will see1 and when you go inside you will hear nothing but the gentle ,spanish of the ,mexican1 so toned down and so changed that some of the ,castilians profess to be unable to understand it4 ,here you will find all the articles of household use that are to be found in the heart of ,mexico1 and that have been used for hundreds of years despite the progress of civilization in other countries4 ,you will find all the strange foods and all the inconsequentials that go to make the sum of ,mexican happiness1 and if you can get sufficiently close in acquaintance you will find that not only will they talk freely to you1 but they will tell you things about ,mexico that not even the heads of the departments in ,washington are aware of4 ,perhaps you would like to know something about the bourgeoise ,french1 those who have come from the peasant district of the mother country4 ,go a little further up ,broadway and you will begin to see the signs changing from ,spanish to ,french1 and if you can understand them you will know that here you will be given a dinner for twenty-five cents on week days and for thirty-five cents on ,sundays4 ,the difference is brought about by the difference between the price of cheap beef or mutton and the dearer chicken4 ,up in the second story on a large building you may see a sign that tells you meals will be served and rooms provided4 ,one of these is the rendezvous of ,anarchists1 who gather each evening and discuss the affairs of the world1 and how to regulate them4 ,but they are harmless ,anarchists in ,san ,francisco1 for here they have no wrongs to redress1 so they sit and drink their forbidden absinthe1 and dream their dreams of fire and sword1 while they talk in whispers of what they are going to do to the crowned heads of ,europe4 ,it is their dream and we have no quarrel with it or them4 ,but for real interest one must get back to the slope of ,telegraph ,hill2 to the streets running up from ,columbus avenue1 until they are so steep that only goats and babies can play on them with safety4 ,at least we suppose the babies are as active as the goats for the sides of the hill are alive with them4 ,let us walk first along ,grant avenue and do a little window shopping4 ,just before you turn off ,broadway into ,grant avenue1 after passing the ,fior d',italia1 the ,buon ,gusto1 the ,dante and ,il ,trovatore restaurants1 we come to a most interesting window where is displayed such a variety of sausages as to make one wonder at the inventive genius who thought of them all4 ,as you wonder you peep timidly in the door and then walk in from sheer amazement4 ,you now find yourself surrounded with sausages1 from floor to ceiling1 and from side wall to side wall on both ceiling and floor1 and such sausage it is6 ,from strings so thin as to appear about the size of a lady's little finger1 to individual sausages as large as the thigh of a giant1 they hang in festoons1 crawl over beams1 lie along shelves1 decorate counters1 peep from boxes on the floor1 and invite you to taste them in the slices that lay on the butcher's block4 ,one can well imagine being in a cave of flesh1 yet if you look closely you will discover that sausage is but a part of the strange edible things to be had here4 ,here are cheeses in wonderful variety4 ,cheeses from ,italy that are made from goats' milk1 asses' milk1 cows' milk and mares' milk1 and also cheeses from ,spain1 ,mexico1 ,germany1 ,switzerland1 and all the other countries where they make cheese1 even including the ,united ,states4 ,these cheeses are of all sizes and all shapes1 from the great1 round1 flat cheese that we are accustomed to see in country grocery stores1 to the queer-shaped caciocavallo1 which looks like an ,indian club and is eaten with fruit4 ,there are dried vegetables and dried fruits such as were never dreamed of in your limited experience1 and even the grocer himself1 the smiling and cosmopolitan ,verga1 confesses that he does not know the names of all of them4 ,as you go out into the street you blink at the transformation1 for you have been thousands of miles away4 ,you think that surely there can be nothing more4 ,wait a bit4 ,turn the corner and walk along ,grant avenue toward the ,hill4 ,see1 here is a window full of bread4 ,look closely at it and you will notice that it is not like the bread you are accustomed to4 ,count the different kinds4 ,fourteen of them in all1 from the long sticks of grissini to the great slid loaves weighing many pounds4 ,light bread1 heavy bread1 good bread1 soft bread1 hard bread1 delicate bread1 each having its especial use1 and all satisfying to different appetites4 ,now go a little further to the corner1 cross the street and enter the store of the ,costa ,brothers4 ,it is a big grocery store and while you will not find the sausage and mystifying mass of food products in such lavish display and profuseness1 as in the previous place1 if you look around you will find this even more interesting1 for it is on a different plane4 ,here you find the delicacies and the niceties of ,italian living4 ,at first glance it looks as if you were in any one of the ,american grocery stores of down-town1 but a closer examination reveals the fact that these canned goods and these boxes and jars1 hold peculiar foods that you are unaccustomed to4 ,perhaps you will find a clerk who can speak good ,english1 but if you cannot either of the ,costa brothers will be glad to show you the courtesy of answering your questions4 ,turn around and look at the shelves filled with bottles of wine4 ,now you feel that you are on safe ground1 for you know about wines and can talk about ,cresta ,blanca1 and ,mont ,rouge1 and ,asti ,colony ,tipo ,chianti4 ,but wait a minute4 ,here are labels that you do not understand and wines that you never even heard of4 ,here are wines whose taste is so delicious that you wonder why it is the whole world is not talking about it and drinking it4 ,here are wines from the slopes of ,aetna1 sparkling and sweet4 ,here are wines from grapes grown on the warm slopes of ,vesuvius1 and brought to early perfection by the underground fires4 ,here are wines from the colder slopes of mountains2 wines from ,parma and from ,sicily and ,palermo where the warm ,italian sunshine has been the arch-chemist to bring perfection to the fruit of the vine4 ,here are still wines and those that sparkle4 ,here the famed ,lacrima ,christi1 both spumanti and fresco1 said to be the finest wine made in all ,italy1 and the spumanti have the unusual quality for an ,italian wine of being dry4 ,but to tell you of all the interesting articles to be found in these ,italian1 and ,french and ,mexican stores1 would be impossible1 for some of them have not been translated into ,english1 and even the storekeepers would be at a loss for words to explain them4 ,this is all a part of the ,bohemianism of ,san ,francisco1 and that is why we are telling you about it in a book that is supposed to be devoted to the ,bohemian restaurants4 ,the fact is that ,san ,francisco's ,bohemian restaurants would be far less interesting were it not for the fact that they can secure the delicacies imported by these foreign storekeepers to supply the wants of their people4 ,but do not think you have exhausted the wonders of ,little ,italy when you have left the stores1 for there is still more to see4 ,if you were ever in ,palermo and went into the little side streets1 you saw the strings of macaroni1 spaghetti and other pastes drying in the sun while children and dogs played through and around it1 giving you such a distaste for it that you have not eaten any ,italian paste since4 ,but in ,san ,francisco they do things differently4 ,there are a number of paste factories1 all good and all clean4 ,take that of ,p4 ,fiorini1 for instance1 at a point a short distance above ,costa ,brothers4 ,you cannot miss it for it has a picture of ,fiorini himself as a sign1 and on it he tells you that if you eat his paste you will get to be as fat as he is4 ,go inside and you will find that ,fiorini can talk just enough ,english to make himself understood1 while his good wife1 his sole assistant1 can neither speak nor understand any but her native ,italian4 ,but that does not bother her in the least1 for she can make signs1 and you can understand them even better than you understand the ,english of her husband4 ,here you will see the making of raviolis by the hundred at a time4 ,tagliarini1 tortilini1 macaroni1 spaghetti1 capellini1 percatelli1 tagliatelli1 and all the seventy and two other varieties4 ,the number of kinds of paste is most astonishing1 and one wonders why there are so many kinds and what is done with them4 ,fiorini will tell you that each kind has its distinctive use4 ,some are for soups1 some for sauces1 and all for special edibility4 ,there are hundreds of recipes for cooking the various pastes and each one is said to be a little better than the others1 if you can imagine such a thing4 ,turn another corner after leaving ,fiorini's and look down into a basement4 ,you do not have to go to the country to see wine making4 ,here is one of the primitive wine presses of ,italy1 and if you want to know why some irreverent people call the red wine of the ,italians ,chateau la ,feet1 you have but to watch the process of its making in these ,telegraph ,hill wine houses4 ,the grapes are poured into a big tub and a burly man takes off his shoes and socks and emulates the oxen of ,biblical times when it treaded out the grain4 ,of course he washes his feet before he gets into the wine tub4 ,but1 at that1 it is not a pleasant thing to contemplate4 ,now you look around with wider and more comprehensive eyes1 and now you begin to understand something about these strange foreign quarters in ,san ,francisco4 ,as you look around you note another thing4 ,italian fecundity is apparent everywhere1 and the farther up the steep slope of the ,hill you go the more children you see4 ,they are everywhere1 and of all sizes and ages1 in such reckless profusion that you no longer wonder if the world is to be depopulated through the coming of the fad of ,eugenics4 ,the ,italian mother has but two thoughts--her ,god and her children1 and it is to care for her children that she has brought from her native land the knowledge of cookery1 and of those things that help to put life and strength in their bodies4 ,an ,italian girl said to us one day3 ,mama knows nothing but cooking and going to church4 ,she cooks from daylight until dark1 and stops cooking only when she is at church4 ,it was evident that her domestic and religious duties dominated her life1 and she knew but two things--to please her ,god and to care for her family1 and without question if occasion demanded the pleasure of her family took precedence4 ,san ,francisco's ,latin quarter is appealing1 enticing and hypnotizing4 ,go there and you will learn why ,san ,francisco is a bohemian city4 ,you will find out that so many things you have thought important are really not at all worth while4 ,go there and you will find the root of ,bohemian restaurants4 ,these people have studied gastronomy as a science1 and they have imparted their knowledge to ,san ,francisco1 with the result that the ,bohemian spirit enters into our very lives1 and our minds are broadened1 and our views of life and our ideas have a wider scope4 ,it is because of this condition1 born on the slopes of ,telegraph ,hill1 that we are drawn out of depressing influences1 out of the spirit of self-consciousness1 and find a world of pleasure1 innocent and educational1 the inspiration for which has been handed down through generations of ,latina since the days of early ,roman empire1 which inspiration is still a power for good because it takes people out of themselves and places them where they can look with understanding and speak the language of perception4 ,little ,italy's charm has long been recognized by artists and writers1 and many of them began their careers which led to fame and fortune in little cheap rooms on ,telegraph ,hill4 ,here have lived many whose names are now known to fame1 and to name them would be almost like a directory of world renowned artists and writers4 ,here is still the memory of ,bret ,harte and ,mark ,twain4 ,here is where ,keith had his early studio4 ,cadenasso1 ,martinez1 and many others know these slopes and love them4 ,to all these and many more the ,latin ,quarter of ,san ,francisco possessed a charm they could find nowhere else1 and if one desire to bring a saddened look to the faces of many now living elsewhere it is but necessary to talk of the good old days when ,bohemia was on ,telegraph ,hill in ,san ,francisco4 ,here they had their domicile1 and here they foregathered in the little restaurants1 whose claims to merit lay chiefly in the fact that they were rarely visited by other than the ,italians of the quarter and these ,bohemians who lived there4 ,here was the inspiration of many a good book and many a famous picture whose inception came from thoughts that crystallized amid these surroundings1 and here many a needy ,bohemian struggled through the lean days with the help of these kind-hearted ,latina4 ,here they1 even as we1 were taught something of the art of cooking4 ,of course1 if one desire to learn various methods of preparing food1 it is necessary to keep both eyes open and to ask many questions1 seeking the information that sometimes comes from unlooked for sources4 ,even at that it is not always a good idea to take everything for granted or to accept every suggestion1 for you may meet with the ,italian vegetable dealer who is so eager to please his customers that he pretends a knowledge he does not possess4 ,we discovered him one day when he had on display a vegetable that was strange to us4 ,how do you cook it8 was our question4 ,fry it4 ,then his partner shouted his laughter and derision4 ,oh1 he's one fine cook4 ,all the time he say 'fry it4' ,one day a lady she come into da store an' she see da big bucket of ripe olives4 ,da lady she from the ,east and she never see olives like dat before4 ',how you cook it8' say da lady4 ',fry it1' say my partner4 ,everything he say fry it4 ,in another vegetable stand we found an ,italian girl1 whose soft lisping accent pronounced her a ,genoese1 and she1 diffidently suggested a fine ,italian dessert4 ,a ,fine ,desert ,you take macaroons and strawberries4 ,put a layer of macaroons in a dish and then a layer of strawberries1 cover these with sugar1 and then another layer of macaroons and strawberries and sugar until you have all you want4 ,over these pour some rum and set fire to it4 ,after it is burned out you have a fine dessert4 ,we bought the macaroons and strawberries on the way home and did not even wait for dinner time to try it4 ,we pronounce it good4 ,it was made the right way and we advise you to try it1 for it is simple and leaves a most delicious memory4 ,where ,fish ,come ,in ,it was very early one morning4 ,so early that one of us strenuously pretended sleep while the other gave urgent reminder that this was the day we were to go to ,fishermen's ,wharf4 ,daylight came early and it was just four o'clock when we began preparations4 ,a cup of hot coffee while dressing served to get us wide-awake1 and we were off to see the fish come in4 ,fishermen's ,wharf lies over at ,north ,beach1 at the end of ,meiggs's ,wharf1 where the ,customs ,officers have their station1 and to reach it one takes either the ,powell and ,north ,beach cars1 or the ,kearny and ,north ,beach cars1 and at the end of either walks two blocks4 ,when you get that far anybody you see can tell you where to go4 ,fog mist was stealing along the ,marin shore1 and hiding ,golden ,gate when we arrived1 and the rays of the sun took some time to make a clear path out to sea4 ,out of the bank of white came gliding the heavy power boats of the ,sicilian and ,corsican fishermen1 while from off shore were the ghostly lateen rigged boats of those who had been fishing up the ,sacramento and ,san ,joaquin rivers1 their yards aslant to catch the faint morning breeze4 ,as they slipped through the leaden water to their mooring at the wharf we could see the decks and holds piled with fish and crabs4 ,roosting on piles1 and lining the water's edge on everything that served to give foothold1 were countless seagulls1 all waiting for the breakfast they knew was coming from the discarded fish1 and fit companions were the women with shawls over their heads irreverently called mud hens1 and old men in dilapidated clothing1 who sat along the stringers of the wharf1 some with baskets1 some with buckets and others with little paper bags1 in which to put the fish which they could get so cheaply it meant a meal for them when otherwise they would have to go without4 ,the earlier boats were moored and on the decks fires were burning in charcoal braziers1 on which the fishermen cooked their breakfasts of fish and coffee1 with the heavy black loaves of bread for which they seem to have special fancy4 ,as the odor of the cooking fish came up from the water the waiting gulls and men and women moved a little closer4 ,breakfast over the fishermen turned to the expectant crowd and began taking notice of the pitiful offerings of coin4 ,tin buckets1 newspapers1 bags1 rags and even scooped hands were held down1 each containing such coin as the owner possessed1 and in return came bountiful supply of fish4 ,a fine1 fat crab for which your market man would charge you forty cents was sold for ten4 ,beautiful1 fresh sand-dabs1 but an hour or two out of the water1 were five cents a pound1 while sea bass1 fresh cod1 mackerel1 and similar fish went at the same price4 ,small fish1 or white bait1 went by quantity1 ten cents securing about half a gallon4 ,smelt1 herring1 flounder1 sole1 all went at equally low prices1 and as each buyer secured his allotment he went hurrying off through the mist1 as silently as the floating gulls4 ,when these were all supplied the rest of the fish and crabs were taken up to the wharf and put on the counters of the free market1 where they were sold at prices most tempting4 ,shrimps1 alive and active1 crayfish1 clams1 squid and similar sea food was in profusion and sold at prices on a parity with that of the fish4 ,as the day wore on the early buyers were replaced by those who knew of the free fish market and came to get good supplies for their money4 ,here were boarding-house keepers1 unmistakable anywhere1 ,bohemians in hard luck who remembered that they could get good food here at a minimum of price1 and came now while on the down turn of the wheel4 ,as a human interest study it was better than a study of fish4 ,fishermen's ,wharf is where the independent fishermen bring their catches to ,san ,francisco1 but it is not where the city's great supply comes in4 ,to see that we had to go along the docks until we came to the ,broadway wharf where ,paladini1 the head of the fish trust1 unloads his tugs of their tons and tons of fish4 ,it is not nearly so interesting to look at1 but it gives a good idea of what comes out of the sea every day to supply the needs of ,san ,francisco and the surrounding country4 ,these tugs bring in the catches of dozens of smaller boats manned by fishermen who are toiling out beyond the heads1 and up the two great rivers4 ,from far out around the ,farallones1 from up around the ,potato ,patch with its mournful fog bell constantly tolling1 from down the coast as far as ,monterey ,bay where fish are in such abundance that it is said they have to give a signal when they want to turn around1 from up the rivers1 come fish to the man who has grown from the owner of a small sail boat to be the power who controls prices of all the fish that go to the markets of the city4 ,by the time we finished with ,paladini's fish we felt ready for breakfast and took a car down to ,davis and ,pacific street where we found ,bazzuro's serving breakfast to dozens of market gardeners who had finished their unloading1 and there1 while partaking of the fresh fish we had brought from ,fishermen's ,wharf1 we saw another phase of ,san ,francisco's early morning life4 ,here were gardeners who came in the darkness of early morning to supply hucksters1 small traders and a few thrifty people who knew of the cheapness1 and in ,columbo market they drove their great wagons and discharged their day's gathering of vegetables of all kinds4 ,but a few steps away is the great fruit market of the early morning and here tons of the finest fruits are distributed to the hundreds of wagons that crowd the street to such an extent that it takes all the ingenuity of experienced policemen to keep clearway for traffic4 ,threading their way in and out between the wheels and the heels of horses1 were men and women1 all looking for bargains in food4 ,amid a din almost deafening business was transacted with such celerity that in three hours the streets were cleared1 fruits and vegetables sold and on their way to distant stands1 and the tired policemen leaning against friendly walls1 recuperating after the strenuous work of keeping order in chaos4 ,it is when one goes to these places in the morning and sees the cheapness of these foods that he can understand in a small way why it is that so many ,italian restaurants can give such good meals for so little money4 ,one wonders at a table d'hote dinner of six or seven courses for twenty-five cents1 or even for half a dollar1 and one accustomed to buying meats1 fish1 vegetables and fruits at the exorbitant prices charged at most of the markets and fruit and vegetable stands now sees why the thrifty foreigner can make and save money while the average ,american can hardly keep more than two jumps ahead of the sheriff4 ,fish in ,their ,variety ,probably the most frequent question asked us by those who come to ,san ,francisco is3 ,where can we get the best fish8 ,with ,san ,francisco's wonderful natural advantages as a fish market one is sometimes surprised that more attention is not given to preparing fish as a specialty4 ,but one restaurant in the city deals exclusively with sea food1 and even there one is astonished at an overlooked opportunity4 ,darbee ,immel have catered to ,san ,francisco in oysters for many years and after the fire they opened the ,shell ,fish ,grotto1 in ,o',farrell street1 between ,powell and ,mason streets1 and this is one of the very few distinctive fish restaurants of the country4 ,it is when one considers the possibilities that a shock comes from the environing decorations4 ,white and gold pillars1 with twining ivy reaching to the old gold and rose mural and ceiling embellishments seem out of place in a restaurant that is devoted entirely to catering to lovers of fish4 ,nothing in the place indicates its character except the big lobster in front of the building4 ,not even so much as a picture to bring a sentiment of the ocean to the mind4 ,we are going to take a liberty1 and possibly ,darbee ,immel may call it an impertinence1 and give them a bit of advice4 ,it costs them nothing consequently they can act on it or not and it will make no difference4 ,this is our suggestion3 ,change the interior of the place entirely by having around the walls a series of large glass aquaria1 with as many different kinds of fish swimming about as it is possible to get2 something on the order of the interior of the aquarium in ,battery ,park in ,new ,york4 ,paint the ceiling to represent the surface of the water as seen from below4 ,have seaweed and kelp in place of ivy1 and a fish net or two caught up in the corners of the room1 with here and there a starfish or a crab--not too many1 for profuseness in this sort of decoration is an abomination4 ,then you will have a restaurant that will be talked about wherever people sit at meat4 ,but to get back to our talk about fish1 and where to get it prepared and cooked the best4 ,we must say that the finest fish we have eaten in ,san ,francisco was not in the high-priced restaurants at all1 but in a little1 dingy back room1 down at ,fishermen's ,wharf1 where there was sand on the floor and all the sounds of the kitchen were audible in the dining room4 ,the place was patronized almost solely by the ,italian fishermen who not only know how to catch a fish but how it ought to be cooked4 ,one may always rest assured that when he gets a fish in one of the ,italian restaurants it is perfectly fresh1 for there are two things that an ,italian demands in eating1 and they are fresh fish and fresh vegetables4 ,at the ,gianduja at ,union and ,stockton streets1 one is certain to get fish cooked well and that it is perfectly fresh4 ,the variety is not so good as at the ,shell ,fish ,grotto1 but otherwise it is just as good in every respect4 ,at the ,grotto there is a wonderful variety but the quantity is at the minimum because there1 too1 they will have no fish that has been twenty-four hours out of the water4 ,one wonders how a full course dinner entirely of fish can be prepared1 but if you will go to the ,shell ,fish ,grotto you will find that it is done1 and done well at that4 ,here you can get a good dinner for one dollar1 or if you prefer it they have a ,fish ,dinner de ,luxe for which they charge two dollars4 ,both are good1 the latter having additional wines and delicacies4 ,down in ,washington street1 just off ,columbus avenue1 is the ,vesuvius1 an ,italian restaurant of low price1 but excellent cooking4 ,a specialty there is fish which is always brought fresh from the nearby ,clay street market as ordered1 consequently is perfect4 ,when you give your order a messenger is dispatched to the market and usually he brings the fish alive and the chef prepares it in one of his many ways1 for he is said to have more secrets about the cooking of fish than one would think it possible for one brain to contain4 ,the trouble about this restaurant is that the rest of the menu does not come up to the fish standard1 but if you desire a simple luncheon of fish there is no better place to get it4 ,there are three things in which an ,easterner will be disappointed in ,san ,francisco1 and these are oysters4 ,pacific ,coast oysters fail in size1 flavor and cooking1 when compared with the luscious bivalve of the ,atlantic1 so far as the ordinary forms of preparation is concerned4 ,even fancy dishes1 such as ,oysters ,kirkpatrick1 would be better if made of the eastern oyster1 not what they call the eastern oyster here1 for that is a misnomer1 but the oysters that grow in the ,atlantic ,ocean4 ,of the ,pacific oysters the best is the ,toke ,point1 that comes from ,oregon4 ,they are similar in size to the ,blue ,point1 but lack the flavor4 ,when1 in a ,san ,francisco restaurant1 you are asked what sort of oyster you will have1 and you see the familiar names on the menu card1 remember that these are transplanted oysters1 and have lost much of their flavor in the transplanting1 or else they are oysters that have been shipped across the continent and have thereby lost their freshness4 ,the ,california oyster proper1 is very small1 and it has a peculiar coppery taste1 which bon vivants declare adds to its piquancy4 ,instead of ordering these by the dozen you order them by the hundred1 it being no difficult task to eat an hundred at a meal1 especially when prepared in a pepper roast4 ,everyone knows the staple ways of preparing oysters1 and every chef looks upon the oyster as the source of new flavors in many dishes1 but to our mind the best way we have found in ,san ,francisco was at a little restaurant down in ,washington street before the fire4 ,it was the ,buon ,gusto1 where they served fish and oysters better than anything else because the owners were the chefs1 and they were from the island of ,catalan1 off the coast of ,italy4 ,their specialty was called ,oysters a la ,catalan1 and their recipe1 which is given1 can be prepared excellently in a chafing dish3 ,oysters a la ,catalan ,take one tablespoonful of butter1 two teaspoonfuls grated ,edam or ,parmesan cheese1 four tablespoonfuls catsup1 one-half teaspoonful ,worcestershire sauce1 two tablespoonfuls cream1 meat of one good-sized crab cut fine and two dozen oysters4 ,put the cheese and butter into a double boiler and when melted smooth add the catsup and ,worcestershire sauce4 ,mix well and add the cream and then the crab meat4 ,when creamy and boiling hot drop in the oysters4 ,as soon as the oysters are crinkled serve on hot buttered toast on hot plates4 ,in the days before the fire when you went to a restaurant and ordered fish or oysters the waiter invariably put before you either a plate of crab salad or a dish of shrimps1 with which you were supposed to amuse yourself while the meal was being prepared4 ,shrimps and crabs were then so plentiful that their price was never considered4 ,under our new conditions these always appear on the bill when ordered1 and if they be not ordered they do not appear for they now are made to increase the income4 ,to the uninitiated visitor the shrimps so served were always something of a mystery1 and after a few futile efforts to get at the meat they generally gave it up as too much work for the little good derived4 ,the ,old ,timer1 however1 cracked the shrimp's neck1 pinched its tail1 and out popped a delicious bonne bouche which added to the joy of the meal and increased the appetite4 ,but there are many other ways of serving shrimps1 and they are also much used to give flavor to certain fish sauces4 ,one of the most delicious ways of preparing shrimp is what is known as ,shrimp ,creole1 a la ,antoine1 so named after the famous ,new ,orleans ,antoine by a chef in ,san ,francisco who had regard for the ,new ,orleans caterer4 ,we doubt if it can be had anywhere in ,san ,francisco now unless you are well enough known to have it prepared according to the recipe4 ,this recipe1 by the way1 is a good one to use in a chafing dish supper4 ,this is the way it was prepared at the old ,pup restaurant1 one of the noted restaurants before the fire and earthquake changed conditions3 ,shrimp ,creole ,take three pints of unshelled shrimps and shell them1 one-half pint of cream1 two tablespoonfuls of butter1 two tablespoonfuls of flour1 two tablespoonfuls of catsup1 one wine glass of sherry1 paprika1 chili powder and parsley4 ,brown the flour in the butter and add the milk until it is thickened4 ,color with the catsup and season with paprika and chili powder4 ,stir in the sherry and make a pink cream which is to be mixed through the shrimps and not cooked4 ,sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve with squares of toast or crackers4 ,lobsters and ,lobsters ,when is a lobster not a lobster8 ,when it is a crayfish4 ,this question and answer might well go into the primer of information for those who come to ,san ,francisco from the ,east1 for what is called a lobster in ,san ,francisco is not a lobster at all but a crayfish4 ,the true lobster is not found in the ,pacific along the ,california coast1 and so far efforts at transplanting have not been successful4 ,the ,pacific crayfish1 however1 serves every purpose1 and while many contend that its meat is not so delicate in flavor as that of its eastern cousin1 the ,californian will as strenuously insist that it is better1 but1 of course1 something must always be allowed for the patriotism of the ,californian4 ,lobster1 served cold with mayonnaise1 or broiled live lobster are most frequently called for1 and while they are both excellent1 we find so many other ways of preparing this crustacean that we rarely take the common variety of lobster dishes into consideration4 ,probably nowhere in ,san ,francisco could one get lobster better served than in the ,old ,delmonico restaurant of the days before the fire4 ,a book could be written about this restaurant and then all would not be told for all its secrets can never be known4 ,in ,new ,york ,city they have what they are pleased to call ,lobster ,palaces1 but there is not a restaurant in that great metropolis that could approach the ,delmonico of ,san ,francisco in its splendid service and its cuisine arrangements2 neither could they approach the romance that always surrounded the ,o',farrell street restaurant4 ,it was here that most magnificent dinners were arranged2 it was here that extraordinary dishes were concocted by chefs of world-wide fame2 it was here that ,lobster a la ,newberg reached its highest perfection1 and this is the recipe that was followed when it was prepared in the ,delmonico3 ,lobster a la ,newberg ,one pound of lobster meat1 one teaspoonful of butter1 one-half pint of cream1 yolks of four eggs1 one wine glass of sherry1 lobster fat4 ,three hours before cooking pour the sherry over the lobster meat and let it stand until ready to cook4 ,heat the butter and stir in with the lobster and wine1 then place this in a stewpan1 or chafing dish1 and cook for eight minutes4 ,have the yolks of eggs well beaten and add to them the cream and lobster fat1 stir well and then stir in a teaspoonful of flour4 ,put this in a double boiler and let cook until thick1 stirring constantly4 ,when this is cooked pour it over the lobster and let all cook together for three minutes4 ,serve in a chafing dish with thin slices of dry toast4 ,king of ,shell ,fish ,one has to come to ,san ,francisco to partake of the king of shell fish--the mammoth ,pacific crab4 ,i say come to ,san ,francisco advisedly1 for while the crab is found all along the coast it is prepared nowhere so deliciously as in ,san ,francisco4 ,of course our friends in ,portland will take exception to this1 but the fact remains that nowhere except in ,san ,francisco have so many restaurants become famous because of the way they prepare the crab4 ,the ,pacific crab is peculiar1 and while it has not the gigantic claws such as are to be seen on those in the ,parisian and ,london markets1 its meat is much more delicate in flavor1 and the dishes of crab prepared by artists of the gastronomic profession in ,san ,francisco are more savory than those found elsewhere4 ,in the pre-fire days there were many places which paid especial attention to the cooking of the crab1 among them being the ,cobweb ,palace1 previously mentioned1 and ,gobey's4 ,gobey ran one of those places which was not in good repute1 consequently when ladies went there they were usually veiled and slipped in through an alley1 but the enticement of ,gobey's crab stew was too much for conventionality and his little private rooms were always full4 ,gobey's passed with the fire1 and the little restaurant bearing his name1 and in charge of his widow1 in ,union ,square avenue1 has not attained the fame of the old place4 ,it is possible that she knows the secret of preparing crab as it was prepared in the ,gobey's of before the fire1 but his prestige did not descend to her4 ,almost all of the ,italian restaurants will give you crab in many forms1 and all of them are good2 many restaurants use crab meat for flavoring other1 dishes1 but of all the recipes for cooking crab we have found none that we consider so good as that of ,gobey's4 ,it is as follows3 ,gobey's ,crab ,stew ,take the meat of one large crab1 scraping out all of the fat from the shell4 ,one good-sized onion1 one tomato1 one sweet pepper1 one teaspoonful of butter1 one teaspoonful of flour1 half a glass of sherry1 a pinch of rosemary1 one clove of garlic1 paprika1 salt and minionette pepper4 ,soak the crab meat in the sherry two hours before cooking4 ,chop fine the onion1 sweet pepper and tomato with the rosemary4 ,mash the clove of garlic1 rubbing thoroughly in a mortar and on this put the butter and flour1 mixing well together1 and gradually adding the salt and minionette pepper1 and stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream4 ,heat this in a stewpan and when simmering add the sherry and crab meat and let all cook together with a slow fire for eight minutes4 ,serve in a chafing dish with toasted crackers or thin slices of toasted bread4 ,a dash of ,worcestershire sauce just before it is taken up adds to the flavor4 ,lobster in ,miniature ,crawfish1 or ecravisse1 has never been very popular in ,san ,francisco1 probably because there are so many other delicate crustaceans that are more easily handled1 yet the crawfish grows to perfection in ,pacific waters1 and importation's of them from ,portland1 ,oregon1 are becoming quite an industry4 ,so far it has been used mostly for garnishment of other dishes1 and it is only recently that the ,hof ,brau has been making a specialty of them4 ,all of the better class restaurants1 however1 will serve them if you order them4 ,the full flavor of the crawfish is best obtained in a bisque1 and the best recipe for this is by the famous chef ,francatelli1 who boasts having been the head of the cuisine of ,queen ,victoria4 ,his recipe is long1 and its preparation requires much patience1 but the result is such a gastronomic marvel that one never regrets the time spent in its accomplishment4 ,this is the recipe for eight people1 and it is well worth trying if you are giving a dinner of importance3 ,bisque of ,crawfish ,take thirty crawfish1 from which remove the gut containing the gall in the following manner3 ,take firm hold of the crawfish with the left hand so as to avoid being pinched by its claws2 with the thumb and forefinger of the right hand pinch the extreme end of the central fin of the tail1 and1 with a sudden jerk1 the gut will be withdrawn4 ,mince or cut into small dice a carrot1 an onion1 one head of celery and a few parsley roots1 and to these add a bay leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 a little minionette pepper and two ounces of butter4 ,put these ingredients into a stewpan and fry them ten minutes1 then throw in the crawfish and pour on them half a bottle of ,french white wine4 ,allow this to boil and then add a quart of strong consomme and let all continue boiling for half an hour4 ,pick out the crawfish and strain the broth through a napkin by pressure into a basin in order to extract all the essence from the vegetables4 ,pick the shells off twenty-five of the crawfish tails1 trim them neatly and set them aside until wanted4 ,reserve some of the spawn1 also half of the body shells with which to make the crawfish butter to finish the soup4 ,this butter is made as follows3 ,place the shells on a baking sheet in the oven to dry2 let the shells cool and then pound them in a mortar with a little lobster coral and four ounces of fresh butter1 thoroughly bruising the whole together so as to make a fine paste4 ,put this in a stewpan and set it over a slow fire to simmer for about five minutes1 then rub it through a sieve with considerable pressure into a basin containing ice water4 ,as soon as the colored crawfish butter is become firmly set1 through the coldness of the water1 take it out and put it into a small basin and set in the refrigerator until wanted4 ,reverting to the original recipe3 ,take the remainder of the crawfish and add thereto three anchovies1 washed for the purpose1 and also the crusts of ,french rolls1 fried to a light brown color in butter4 ,pound all these thoroughly together and then put them into a stewpan with the broth that has been reserved in a basin1 and having warmed the bisque thus prepared rub it through a sieve into a fine puree4 ,put this puree into a soup pot and finish by incorporating therewith the crawfish butter and season with a little cayenne pepper and the juice of half a lemon4 ,pour the bisque quite hot into the tureen in which have been placed the crawfish tails1 and send to the table4 ,this is not so difficult as it appears when you are reading it and if you wish to have something extra fine take the necessary time and patience and prepare it4 ,clams and ,abalone's ,we cannot dispose of the shell fish of ,san ,francisco without a word or two about clams1 for certainly there is no place where they are in greater variety and better flavor4 ,in fact the clam is the only bivalve of this part of the coast that has a distinctive and good flavor4 ,several varieties are to be found in the markets1 the best and rarest being the little rock clams that come from around ,drake's ,bay1 just above the entrance to ,golden ,gate4 ,these are most delicious in flavor and should never be eaten otherwise than raw4 ,the sand1 or hard shell1 or as they are sometimes called little necks1 are next in choiceness1 and then come the ,pismo beach clams1 noted for their flavor and enormous size4 ,the mud clam is good for chowder but not so good as either of the other varieties mentioned4 ,the ,bohemian way to have your clams is to go to the shore of ,bolinas ,bay or some other equally retired spot1 and have a clam bake1 or else take a pot along with the other ingredients and have a good clam chowder4 ,this1 however1 may be prepared at any time and is always a good meal4 ,clam fritters when prepared according to the recipe given herein1 is one of the best methods of preparing the clam1 and it has the peculiarity of being so tasty that one feels that there is never enough cooked4 ,of all the ways of cooking clams chowder takes precedence as a rule1 and it is good when made properly4 ,by that we do not mean the thin1 watery stuff that is served in most of the restaurants and called clam chowder just because it happens to be made every ,friday4 ,that is fairly good as a clam soup but it is no more chowder than a ,mexican soup approaches a crawfish bisque4 ,there is but one right way to make clam chowder1 and that is either to make it yourself or closely superintend the making1 and this is the way to make it3 ,clam ,chowder ,take one quart of shelled sand clams1 two large potatoes1 two large onions1 one clove of garlic1 one sweet pepper1 one thick slice of salt pork1 one-half pound small oyster crackers1 one-half glass sherry1 one tablespoonful ,worcestershire sauce1 one tomato1 salt1 and pepper4 ,in a large stewpan place the salt pork cut into small dice1 and let this fry slightly over a slow fire until the bottom of the stewpan is well greased4 ,take this off the fire and put in a layer of potatoes sliced thin1 on top of the salt pork1 then a layer of onions sliced thin1 and a layer of clams4 ,put on this salt and pepper and sprinkle with a little flour and then a layer of crackers4 ,chop the sweet pepper and tomato fine and mix with them the bruised and mashed garlic4 ,on top of each succession of layers put a little of the mixture4 ,continue making these layers until all the ingredients are placed in the stewpan1 and then pour on the top sufficient water to just show4 ,cover tightly and let cook gently for half an hour4 ,pour on the ,worcestershire sauce and sherry just before serving4 ,do not stir this while cooking1 and in order to prevent its burning it should be cooked over an asbestos cover4 ,when done this should be thick enough to be eaten with a fork4 ,among the good ,bohemians who lived in ,san ,francisco as a child when it was in the post-pioneer days1 and who has enjoyed the good things of all the famous restaurants is ,mrs4 ,emma ,sterett1 who has given us the following recipe for clam fritters which we consider the most delicious of all we have ever eaten1 and when you try them you will agree with us3 ,clam ,fritters ,take two dozen clams1 washed thoroughly and drained4 ,put in chopping bowl and chop1 not too fine4 ,add to these one clove of garlic mashed1 one medium-sized onion chopped fine1 add bread crumbs sufficient to stiffen the mass1 chopped parsley1 celery and herbs to taste4 ,beat two eggs separately and add to the clams4 ,if too stiff to drop from a spoon add the strained liquor of clams4 ,drop tablespoonfuls of this mixture into hot fat1 turn and cook for sufficient time to cook through1 then drain on brown paper and serve4 ,abalone's are a univalve that has been much in vogue among the ,chinese but has seldom found place on the tables of restaurants owing to the difficulty in preparing them1 as they are tough and insipid under ordinary circumstances4 ,when made tender either by the ,chinese method of pounding1 or by steeping in vinegar1 they serve the purpose of clams but have not the fine flavor4 ,the ,hof ,brau restaurant is now making a specialty of abalone's1 but it takes sentiment to say that one really finds anything extra good in them4 ,another shell fish much in vogue among the ,italian restaurants is mussels1 which are found to perfection along the coast4 ,these are usually served ,bordelaise1 and make quite a pleasant change when one is surfeited with other shell fish1 but the best recipe is3 ,mussels ,mariniere ,thoroughly clean the mussels and then put them in a deep pan and pour over them half a glass of white wine4 ,chop an onion1 a clove of garlic and some parsley fine and put in the pan1 together with a tablespoonful of butter4 ,let these boil very quick for twelve minutes1 keeping the pan tightly covered4 ,take off half shells and place the mussels in a chafing dish and pour over them ,bechamel sauce and then add sufficient milk gravy to cover4 ,serve hot from chafing dish4 ,where ,fish ,abound ,according to ,david ,starr ,jordan1 acknowledged world authority on fish1 there is greater variety of fish in ,monterey ,bay than anywhere else in the world4 ,monterey ,bay is one of ,san ,francisco's sources of supply consequently we have a greater variety of fish in our markets than are to be found anywhere else4 ,in the markets are fish from all parts of the ,pacific ,ocean1 from the ,tropics to far north in the ,arctics1 while denizens of the waters all the way1 between add to the variety4 ,the essential element of goodness in fish is freshness1 and it is always fresh in ,san ,francisco markets1 and also in the restaurants4 ,of all varieties two rank first in the estimation of gourmets1 but1 of course1 that is purely a matter of individual taste4 ,according to the above-mentioned authority1 the finest fish that swims is the sand-dab4 ,some gourmets1 however1 will take issue with him on this and say the pompano is better4 ,others will prefer the mountain trout4 ,be that as it may they all are good1 with many others following close in choice4 ,fine striped bass from the ocean1 or black bass from the fresh water takes high place in preference4 ,then there is sole1 both in the fillet and ,rex1 as prepared at ,jule's under the ,monadnock building4 ,tom cod1 rock cod1 fresh mackerel and fresh cod1 white bait and boned smelt all are excellent fish1 but were we to attempt to tell of all the fish to be found here we would have to reproduce a piscatorial directory4 ,there are two good methods of acquiring knowledge of the fish of ,san ,francisco4 ,go to the wharves and see them come and and go to the wholesale markets down in ,clay street1 below ,montgomery4 ,you will then begin to realize that we certainly do have a variety of good fish4 ,now for a little ,bohemianism of a different sort3 ,recently there came to ,san ,francisco1 with his wife1 an actor whose name used to be almost a household word among theater-goers1 and when we say the villain still pursued her1 all you old timers will know whom we mean4 ,when he was here in the years long gone by it was his custom to go to the old ,california market1 select what he desired to eat1 then take it to the restaurant and have it cooked1 and the old atmosphere came back to him on his recent arrival and he revived the old custom4 ,meet us at the ,california market1 was the telephone message that came to us1 and we were there1 for we knew that something good was in store for us4 ,first we went through the market from end to end and all the side aisles1 spying out the land4 ,it is not possible to enumerate what we saw4 ,if you want to know go there and see for yourselves4 ,having seen we were told to go and select what we wished to have for our dinner1 and then the selection began and there was a feast of buying fish1 meats1 vegetables and delicacies of all sorts1 even to ,french pastry4 ,our purchases were ordered sent to the restaurant in the corner of the market where the chef had already been duly seen1 and then came each particular idea as to how the food was to be cooked4 ,we had sand-dabs munier1 chateaubriand with mushrooms1 ,italian squash1 fried in oil with a flavor of garlic1 ,french pastry1 and coffee1 together with some good ,california ,tipo ,chianti1 all flavored with such a stream of reminiscence that we forgot that such things as clocks existed4 ,it was the first time our theatrical friends had tasted sand-dabs1 for this fish has come to ,san ,francisco markets only in recent years1 and they declared that it was the only fish fit to be eaten4 ,it is possible that they were prejudiced by the sentiment of the surroundings and consequently not exactly in position to be good judges4 ,all ,italian restaurants serve fish well4 ,at the ,new ,buon ,gusto you will find a most excellent cippino with polenti1 and if you have not experienced this we advise you to try it as soon as possible4 ,at the ,gianduja you will find sand-dabs au gratin to be very fine4 ,at ,jack's1 striped bass cooked in wine is what we think the best of the fish to be found in the market1 or at the restaurants1 cooked that way4 ,jule's is famous for his ,rex sole4 ,at all of the ,french and ,italian restaurants small fry is cooked to perfection4 ,if you wish fish in any way or of any kind you will make no mistake in asking for it at any of the ,french or ,italian restaurants1 or at the ,shell ,fish ,grotto1 and if you are in doubt regarding what to order just take the proprietor into your confidence1 tell him you are a stranger in the city and ask him to serve you fish the best way he prepares it4 ,you will not be disappointed4 ,some ,food ,variants ,variants of food preparation sometimes typify nationalities better even than variants of language or clothing4 ,take the lowly corn meal1 for instance4 ,we find that ,italian polenti1 ,spanish tamale1 ,philadelphia scrapple and ,southern ,darkey crackling corn bread are but variants of the preparation of corn meal in delectable foods4 ,it is a long step from plain corn meal mush to scrapple1 which we consider the highest and best form of preparing this sort of dish1 but all the intermediate steps come from a desire to please the taste with a change from simple corn meal4 ,crackling corn bread is the first step1 and here we find that the darkies of the ,south found good use for the remnants of the pork after lard was tried out at hog-killing time1 by mixing the cracklings with their corn meal and making a pone which they cooked before an open fire on a hoe blade1 the first of this being called cracklin' hoe cake4 ,good scrapple is one of the finest breakfast dishes that we know during the winter1 and when prepared after the recipe given here it precedes all other forms of serving corn meal4 ,to mix it properly one must know the proper values of herbs and condiments1 and this recipe is the result of much discriminating study4 ,modesty prevents us giving it more than the name of scrapple4 ,it is prepared in the following manner1 differing from that made in ,philadelphia3 ,scrapple ,take a young pig's head and boil it until the flesh drops from the bones1 in water to which has been added two good-sized onions1 quartered1 five bruised cloves of garlic1 one bay leaf1 sweet marjoram1 thyme1 rosemary1 a little sage1 salt1 and pepper4 ,separate the meat from the bones and chop fine4 ,strain off the liquor and boil with corn meal1 adding the chopped meat4 ,put in the corn meal gradually1 until it makes a stiff mush1 then cook for half an hour with the meat4 ,put in shallow pans and let cool4 ,to serve slice about half an inch thick and fry in olive oil or butter to a light brown4 ,as originally prepared the tamale was made for conveyance1 hence the wrappings of corn husk4 ,this is a ,spanish dish1 having been brought to this country by the early ,spanish explorers1 and adopted by the ,indian tribes with whom they came in contact4 ,in the genuine tamale the interior is the sauce and meat that goes with the corn meal which is alternately laid with the husks1 and when made the ends are tied with fine husk4 ,for meat1 chicken1 pork1 and veal are considered the best4 ,there is also a sweet tamale1 made with raisins or preserves4 ,the following recipe for tamales was given us by ,luna3 ,tamales ,boil one chicken until the meat comes from the bones4 ,chop the neat fine and moisten it with the liquor in which it was boiled4 ,boil six large chili peppers in a little water until cooked so they can be strained through a fine strainer1 and add to this the chopped chicken1 with salt to taste and a little chopped parsley4 ,take corn meal and work into it a lump of butter the size of an egg1 adding boiling water and working constantly until it makes a paste the consistency of biscuit dough4 ,have ready a pile of the soft inner husks of green corn and on each husk spread a lump of dough1 the size of a walnut1 into a flat cake covering the husk4 ,in the center of the dough put a teaspoonful of the chopped meat with minced olive4 ,on a large husk put several tablespoonfuls of chopped meat with olives4 ,roll this together and lay on them other husks until the tamale is of the size desired4 ,tie the ends together with strips of fine husk and put in boiling water for twenty minutes4 ,either veal or pork may be used instead of chicken4 ,polenti1 properly prepared1 is a dish that requires much labor1 and scarcely repays for the time and exertion spent in its making4 ,it differs from scrapple in that the ingredients are mixed in a sauce and poured over the mush instead of being mixed in the meal4 ,in the ,new ,buon ,gusto restaurant1 in ,broadway1 they cook polenti to perfection1 and when it is served with cippino it leaves nothing to be desired4 ,this is the recipe3 ,polenti ,for the gravy3 ,make a little broth with veal bone1 a small piece of beef1 a pig's foot1 neck1 feet and gizzard of chicken4 ,in a separate kettle cook in hot oil one sliced onion1 one clove of garlic1 a little parsley1 one bell pepper1 one tomato1 a small piece of celery1 and a carrot4 ,cook until soft and then add this to the broth with a few dried mushrooms4 ,cook slowly for thirty minutes and then strain4 ,for the mush3 ,boil corn meal until it is thoroughly done and then cool it until it can be cut in slices for frying4 ,mix butter and olive oil and heat in a frying pan and into this put the slices of corn meal1 frying to a light brown4 ,place the fried corn meal in a platter in layers1 sprinkling each with grated ,parmesan cheese1 salt1 and pepper4 ,take parsley and one clove of garlic chopped fine and a can of ,french mushrooms cut in quarters1 and fry in butter1 then add enough gravy to pour over the fried corn meal4 ,place this in an oven for a few minutes then serve4 ,about ,dining ,table d'hote is the feature of ,san ,francisco's restaurant life4 ,it is the ideal method for those who wish a good dinner and who have not the inclination1 or the knowledge1 to order a special dinner4 ,it is also the least expensive way of getting a good dinner4 ,it also saves an exhibition of ignorance regarding the dishes1 for if you are in doubt all you have to do is to leave it to the waiter1 and he will bring the best there is on the day's menu and will serve it properly4 ,it is really something to elicit wonder when one considers the possibilities of a table d'hote dinner in some of the less expensive restaurants4 ,take1 for instance1 the ,buon ,gusto1 in ,broadway4 ,this restaurant boasts a good chef1 and the food is the finest the market affords4 ,here is served a six course dinner for fifty cents1 and the menu card is typical of this class of restaurants4 ,what is provided is shown by the following taken from the bill of fare as it was served us3 ,hor d'ouvres--four kinds2 five kinds of salad2 two kinds of soup2 seven kinds of fish2 four kinds of paste2 broiled spring chicken2 green salad with ,french dressing2 ice cream or rum omelet2 mixed fruits2 demi tasse4 ,with this is served a pint of good table wine4 ,as one goes up with the scale of prices in the restaurants that charge #a1 #a4be1 #a4ej1 #b1 #b4ej1 and #c for their dinners it will be found that the difference lies chiefly in the variety from which to choose and from the surroundings and service4 ,take1 for example1 the following typical menu for a dollar dinner1 served at the ,fior d',italia1 and compare it with the fifty-cent dinner just mentioned3 ,salami and anchovies2 salad2 chicken broth with ,italian paste2 fillet of ,english sole1 sauce tartare2 spaghetti or ravioli2 escallop of veal1 caper sauce2 ,french peas with butter2 roast chicken with chiffon salad2 ice cream or fried cream2 assorted fruits and cakes2 demi tasse4 ,wine with this dinner is extra4 ,now going a step up in the scale we come to the #a4ej dinner as follows3 ,anchovies1 salami 7note that it is the same as above72 combination salad2 tortellini di ,bologna soup2 striped bass a la ,livornaise2 ravioli a la ,genoese and spaghetti with mushrooms2 chicken saute1 ,italian style1 with green peas2 squab with lettuce2 zabaione2 fruit2 cheese2 coffee4 ,wine is extra4 ,let us now look at the menu of the #c4ej dinner1 without wine3 ,pate 'de foie gras--truffles on toast2 salad2 olives2 ,alice ,fallstaff2 ,italian ham ,prosciutto2 soup--semino ,italiani with ,brodo de ,cappone2 pompano a la papillote2 tortellini with fungi a funghetto2 fritto misto2 spring chicken saute2 ,carcioffi all',inferno2 ,capretto al ,forno con ,insallata2 omelet ,celestine2 fruit2 cheese1 and black coffee4 ,this dinner must be ordered three days in advance4 ,these menus will give a good idea of the different classes of dinners that can be obtained4 ,between are dinners to suit all tastes and pocketbooks4 ,if you wish to go beyond these there is no limit except the amount of money you have4 ,if but the food value be taken into consideration then one will be as well pleased with the fifty-cent dinner as he will be at the higher priced meals1 but if light and music and brilliant surroundings are desired1 then one must pay for them as well as for the meal he eats4 ,all of the restaurants mentioned serve good table d'hote dinners1 giving an astonishing variety of foods for the money1 and it is all cooked and served in a manner that leaves nothing to be desired4 ,as before mentioned if you wish a table d'hote dinner composed entirely of sea food you can get it at the ,shell ,fish ,grotto for one dollar4 ,a good rule to follow when dining at any of the restaurants is3 ,when in doubt order a table d'hote dinner4 ,you will always get a good meal1 for the least out lay of money and least expenditure of thought4 ,often one desires something a little different1 and this is easy1 too1 and you can conserve your brain energy and get the most for the least money by seeing the proprietor or manager of the restaurant and telling him that you wish to give a little dinner4 ,tell him how many will be in the party and give him the amount you wish to spend4 ,it will be surprising1 sometimes1 to see how much more you can get for a slight increase in the price4 ,of course your wines and cocktails will be extra and these must be reckoned in the cost4 ,from this we come to the ordered dinner1 and here is where your own knowledge and special desires come in4 ,here1 too1 comes a marked increase in the cost4 ,you now have the widest range of possibilities both as to viands and as to price4 ,it is not at all difficult to have a dinner1 without wine1 that costs twenty-five dollars a plate1 and when you come down to the more normal dinners1 unless you confine yourself to one or two dishes you will find that you far exceed in price the table d'hote dinners of equal gastronomic value4 ,while this is true it is well to be able to order your dinner for it frequently occurs that one does not care to go through the heavy course dinner provided table d'hote4 ,sometimes one wants a simple dish1 or perhaps two1 and it is well to know something about them and how to order them4 ,we have made it a rule whenever we have seen something new on the bill of fare to order it1 on the theory that we are willing to try anything once1 and in this way we have greatly enlarged our knowledge of good things4 ,it is also well to remember national characteristics and understand that certain dishes are at their best at certain restaurants4 ,for instance1 you will be served with an excellent paste at a ,french restaurant1 but if you want it at its best you will get it at an ,italian restaurant4 ,on the other hand if you desire a delicate entree you will get the best at a ,french restaurant4 ,for instance1 one would not ask for sauer braten anywhere except at a ,german restaurant4 ,it will readily be seen that the ,elegant ,art of ,dining in ,san ,francisco means much more than the sitting at table and partaking of what is put before you4 ,dining is an art1 and its pleasure is greatly enhanced by a knowledge of foods1 cooking1 serving1 national characteristics1 and combinations of both foods and wines4 ,how few people are there1 for instance1 who know that one should never drink any hard liquor1 like whisky1 brandy1 or gin1 with oysters4 ,many a fit of acute stomach trouble has been attributed to some food that was either bad or badly prepared when the cause of the trouble was the fact that a cocktail had been taken just prior to eating oysters4 ,some of the possibilities of dining in ,san ,francisco may be understood when we tell you of a progressive dinner4 ,we had entertained one of the ,exposition ,commissioners from a sister ,state and he was so well pleased with what he had learned in a gastronomic way that he said to us3 ,the ,governor of my ,state is coming and ,i should like to give him a dinner that will open his eyes to ,san ,francisco's possibilities4 ,would it be asking too much of you to have you help me do it8 ,we shall be glad to4 ,what do you want us to do8 ,take charge of the whole business1 do as you please and go as far as you like4 ,that is a wide order1 ,general4 ,what is the limit of price1 and how many will be in the party8 ,just six4 ,that will include the ,governor and his wife1 you two and myself and wife4 ,let it be something unusual and do not let the cost interfere4 ,what ,i want is something unusual4 ,it has been told us that when the ,governor got back home he tried to tell some of his friends about that dinner1 but they told him he had acquired the ,california habit of talking wide4 ,this is the way we carried out the dinner1 everything being arranged in advance3 ,at #f3cj we called at the rooms of the ,governor in the ,palace ,hotel and had served there dry ,martini cocktails with ,russian caviar on toasted rye bread4 ,an automobile was in waiting1 and at seven o'clock we were set down at ,felix's1 in ,montgomery street1 where a table was ready for us and on it were served salami of various kinds1 artichokes in oil and ripe olives4 ,then came a service of soup1 for which this restaurant is famous1 followed by a combination salad1 with which was served a bottle of ,pontet ,canet4 ,the automobile carried us then over to ,broadway and at the ,fior d',italia our table was waiting and here we were served with sand-dabs au gratin1 and a small glass of sauterne4 ,all the haste we made was on the streets1 and when we finished our course at the ,fior d',italia we whirled away over toward ,north ,beach to the ,gianduja1 where had been prepared especially for us tagliarini with chicken livers and mushrooms1 and because of its success we had a bottle of ,lacrima ,christi ,spumanti1 the enjoyment of which delayed us4 ,again in the automobile to ,coppa's where ,chicken ,portola was served1 with green peas4 ,accompanying this was a glass of ,krug1 and this was followed by a glass of zabaione for dessert4 ,back again to the heart of the city and we stopped at ,raggi's1 in ,montgomery street near ,commercial where we had a glass of brandy in which was a chinotti 7a peculiar ,italian preserved fruit which is said to be a cross between a citron and an orange74 ,then around the corner to ,gouailhardou ,rondel's1 the ,market ,cafe1 where from a plain pine table1 and on sanded floor1 we had our coffee royal4 ,as a fitting climax for this evening we directed the chauffeur to drive to the ,cliff ,house1 where1 over a bottle of ,krug1 we talked it all over as we watched the dancing and listened to the singing of the cabaret performers4 ,this dinner1 including everything from the automobile to the tips cost but fifteen dollars for each one in the party4 ,something ,about ,cooking ,cooking is sometimes a pleasure1 sometimes a duty1 sometimes a burden and sometimes a martyrdom1 all according to the point of view4 ,the extremes are rarities1 and sometimes duty and burden are synonymous4 ,in ordinary understanding we have ,american cooking and ,foreign cooking1 and to one accustomed to plain ,american cooking1 all variants1 and all additions of spices1 herbs1 or unusual condiments is classed under the head of ,foreign4 ,in the average ,american family cooking is a duty usually considered as one of the necessary evils of existence1 and food is prepared as it is usually eaten--hastily--something to fill the stomach4 ,the excuse most frequently heard in ,san ,francisco for the restaurant habit1 and for living in cooped-up apartments1 is that the wife wants to get away from the burden of the kitchen and drudgery of housework4 ,and like many other effects this eventually becomes a cause1 for both husband and wife become accustomed to better cooking than they could get at home and there is a continuance of the custom1 for both get a distaste for plainly cooked food1 and the wife does not know how to cook any other way4 ,yet when all is considered the difference between plain ,american cooking and what is termed ,foreign cooking1 is but the proper use of condiments and seasoning1 combined with proper variety of the food supply from the markets4 ,herein lies the secret of a good table-proper combination of ingredients and proper variation and selection of the provisions together with proper preparation and cooking of the food4 ,we have met with many well educated and well raised men and women whose gastronomic knowledge was so limited as to be appalling4 ,all they knew of meats was confined to ordinary poultry1 i4 e41 chickens and turkeys1 and to beef1 veal1 pork1 and mutton4 ,of these there were but three modes of cooking--frying1 stewing and baking1 sometimes boiling4 ,their chops were always fried as they knew nothing of the delicate flavor imparted by broiling4 ,in fact their knowledge was confined to the least healthful and least nutritious modes of preparation and cooking4 ,not only is this true of the average ,american family1 but their lack of knowledge of the fundamentals of cooking and food values brings about a waste largely responsible for what is called the high cost of living4 ,it is a trite1 but nevertheless true saying that a ,french family could live well on what an ,american family wastes4 ,waste in preparation is but the mildest form of waste4 ,waste consequent upon lack of knowledge of food values is the waste that is doubly expensive for it not only wastes food but it also wastes the system whose energy is exhausted in trying to assimilate improper alimentation4 ,it is a well recognized medical fact that much of the illness of ,americans arises from two causes1 improper food and improper eating methods4 ,in ,europe this fact was recognized and generally known so long ago that the study of food values and preparation for proper assimilation is one of the essential parts of every woman's education1 and to such a degree has this become raised to a science that schools and even colleges in cooking are to be found in many parts of ,england1 ,france and ,germany4 ,francatelli1 the great chef who was at the head of ,queen ,victoria's kitchen1 boasts proudly of his diploma from the ,parisian ,college of ,cooking4 ,the ,united ,states is now beginning to wake up to the fact that the preparation of food is something more than a necessary evil1 and from the old cooking classes of our common schools has developed the classes in ,domestic ,science1 that which was formerly considered drudgery now being elevated to an art and dignified as a science4 ,in ,europe this stage was reached many generations ago1 and there it is now an art which has elevated the primitive process of feeding to the elegant art of dining4 ,in ,san ,francisco probably more than in any other city in the ,united ,states1 not even excepting ,new ,orleans1 this art has flourished for many years with the result that the average ,san ,franciscan is disappointed at the food served in other cities of his country1 and always longs for his favorite restaurant even as the children of ,israel longed for the flesh pots of ,egypt4 ,one needs to spend a day in the ,italian quarter of ,san ,francisco to come to a full realization of the difference between the requirements of even the poorest ,italian family and the average ,american family of the better class4 ,we need but say that we have been studying this question for nearly twenty years yet even now we meet with surprises in the way of new delicacies and modes of using herbs and spices in food preparation4 ,if we were to attempt even to enumerate the various herbs1 spices1 flavorings1 delicacies1 and pastes to be found in a well regulated ,italian shop it would take many pages of this book1 yet every one of these articles has its own individual and peculiar use1 and the knowledge of these articles and how to use them is what makes the difference between ,american and ,foreign cooking4 ,each herb has a peculiar quality as a stomachic and it must be as delicately measured as if it were a medicine4 ,the use of garlic1 so much decried as plebeian1 is the secret of some of the finest dishes prepared by the highest chefs4 ,it must not be forgotten that in the use of all flavors and condiments there may be an intemperance1 there lying the root of much of the bad cooking4 ,garlic1 for instance1 is a flavor and not a food1 yet many of the lower class foreigners eat it on bread1 making a meal of dark bread1 garlic and red wine4 ,it is offensive to sensitive nostrils and vitiates the taste when thus used1 but when properly added to certain foods it gives an intangible flavor which never fails to elicit praise4 ,what is true of garlic is also true of the many herbs that are used4 ,it is easy to pass from a rare flavor that makes a most savory dish to a taste of medicine that spoils a dinner4 ,with the well-known prodigal and wasteful habits of ,america the ,american who learns the use of herbs usually makes the initial mistake of putting in the flavoring herbs with too lavish a hand1 and it is only after years of experience that a knowledge of proper combinations is obtained4 ,visitors have often expressed wonder at the variety of foods and delicate flavors in ,san ,francisco restaurants1 and possibly this brief explanation may give some comprehension of why ,san ,franciscans always want to get back to where they can get something to eat4 ,told in a ,whisper ,surely the old ,bohemians of ,san ,francisco did not spend all their time in restaurants4 ,how did they live when at home8 ,this is what was said to us one day when we were talking about the old days and the old people4 ,indeed they did not live all their time in restaurants4 ,some of the most enjoyable meals we have eaten have been in the rooms and apartments of our ,bohemian friends1 and these meals were prepared generally by each one present doing his or her part in making it a success4 ,one would make the salad1 another the main dish1 and others do various forms of scullery work1 and in the end we would have a meal that would often put to blush the efforts of many of the renowned chefs4 ,many people who come to ,san ,francisco will wish to conserve their finances as much as possible1 and they will wish to enjoy life in their apartments4 ,there are also many people who live in ,san ,francisco who need a little advice on how to get the best out of life1 and we are going to whisper a few words to all such as these we have mentioned4 ,you can be a ,bohemian and have the very best sort of living in your own room for less than half the money it will take to live at the hotels and restaurants1 and we are sure many of you would like to know something about how to do it4 ,it is not necessary to confine yourself to the few things in your limited experience4 ,if you are going to be in ,san ,francisco for more than a week1 you will find that a little apartment1 furnished ready for housekeeping1 will give you opportunity to be independent and free4 ,you will get your own breakfasts1 when and how you want them4 ,your luncheons and dinners can be gotten in your rooms or at the restaurants just as you are inclined4 ,you will find delight and education in visiting the markets1 and the foreign stores where all the strange and unusual foods of all nations are to be found4 ,you will discover better articles at less prices at the little ,italian1 ,french1 ,mexican or ,chinese stores and stalls than can be had in the most aristocratic stores in the city4 ,above all you will find a joy of invention and will be surprised at the delectable dishes you can prepare at a minimum of cost4 ,when you visit ,san ,francisco you are desirous of so arranging your finances that you may see the most for the least outlay of money4 ,after a strenuous day of sight-seeing you will scarcely feel like getting up a good meal1 consequently then you will follow the ideas suggested in this book and visit the various restaurants1 thus obtaining a variety both in foods and in information of an educational nature4 ,but sometimes you will not be tired1 or you will wish to get up a little late supper after theatre1 and it is then that you will be glad of the opportunity afforded by having your own kitchen arrangements so that you can carry out your tastes1 and cook some of the strange and new foods that you have discovered in your rambles through the foreign quarters4 ,take the simple matter of sausage1 for instance4 ,ordinarily we know of but three kinds--pork sausage1 frankfurter and bologna--neither very appetizing or appealing1 except sometimes the pork sausage for breakfast4 ,over in the little ,italian and ,french shops you will find some of the most wonderful sausages that mind can conceive of4 ,some of these are so elaborate in their preparation that they cost even in that inexpensive part of the city1 seventy cents a pound1 and the variety is almost as infinite as that of the pastes4 ,in the ,mexican stores you will find a sausage that gives a delightful flavor to anything it is cooked with1 and it is when you see these sausages that your eyes begin to be opened4 ,you now take cognizance of many things that heretofore escaped your observation4 ,you see new canned goods2 a wonderful variety of cheeses2 strange dried vegetables and delicacies unheard of2 preserved vegetables and fish and meats in oil2 queer fish pickled and dried4 ,you begin to learn of the many uses of olive oil in cooking and in food preparation4 ,you see the queer shapes of bread1 and note the numerous kinds of cakes and pastry that you never saw or heard of before4 ,you see boxes of dried herbs1 and begin to realize why you have never been able to reproduce certain flavors you have tasted in restaurants4 ,you see strange-looking1 flat hams1 and are told that they are ,italian hams1 and if you buy some you will find that they cut the ham the wrong way1 and instead of slicing it across the grain they cut in very thin slices down the length of the bone4 ,their flavor is more delicious than that of any ham you have tasted since you used to get the old-time1 genuine country smoked hams4 ,but if you investigate a little deeper you will learn that these hams were not put up in ,italy at all1 but that it is a special brand that is prepared in ,virginia for the ,italians4 ,in the ,french stores you will find preserved cockscombs1 snails1 marvelous blood sausages with nuts in them1 rare cheeses1 prepared meats in jellies1 and hundreds of delicacies unknown to you4 ,you can spend days in these stores1 finding something new all the time4 ,we have been going there for years and still run across new things4 ,remember that to the people of the ,latin ,quarter these things are all usual consequently they think you know as much about them as they do1 and will volunteer no information regarding them4 ,possibly they will smile at your ignorance when you ask them questions1 but do not hesitate to ask1 for they are courteous and that is the only way you can find out things1 and learn what all these new edibles are and what they are good for4 ,there is no greater possibility of interest than is to be found in the stores of ,san ,francisco's ,latin ,quarter1 and we mean by this the stores that cater to the people of the ,quarter4 ,in stores and restaurants frequented by ,americans they cater to ,american tastes and lose much of the foreign flavor4 ,it is also well to bear in mind that it is not in the largest stores that you find the greatest variety when it comes to odd and new goods4 ,a little shop1 barely large enough to turn around in between counter and wall1 may have enough of interest to entertain you for half an hour1 and here the prices will be remarkably low1 for these people have so little of the outside trade that they have not learned to add to their prices when they see an ,american face coming4 ,what is true of the stores is also true of the vegetable stands1 the meat shops1 the fish stalls1 and bakeries4 ,here you will find better and fresher food supplies than in any of the similar places in other parts of the city1 and the price is generally one-third less4 ,the high cost of living has not reached this thrifty people with their inborn knowledge of the values of foods4 ,they live twice as well as the average ,american family at half the cost4 ,they combine knowledge of food values with the art of preparation and have a resultant meal that is tasty1 full flavored1 and nourishing at a minimum of expense4 ,perhaps you want a meal4 ,your thoughts at once run to steaks and chops1 and fried potatoes4 ,nothing but a porterhouse or tenderloin steak or a kidney chop will do4 ,it is the most expensive meat and you think that of course it is the best and most nourishing4 ,if the knowledge of food values were with you1 you would get the less expensive and more nourishing cuts4 ,a flank steak1 perhaps1 prepared en casserole1 and you would have a fine dish for half the money4 ,as it is in meats so it is in all foods4 ,for ten cents two people can have a dinner of tagliarini that is at once nourishing and satisfying in flavor4 ,of course all this requires knowledge1 but that is easily acquired1 and it adds to the zest of life to know that you can do that which lifts eating from the plane of feeding to that of dining2 that you can change existence into living4 ,all because you dare to break away from conventionalities which make so many people affect ignorance of how to live because they imagine it is an evidence of refinement4 ,if they but knew it1 their affectation and their ignorance is the hall mark of low caste4 ,now about this whisper3 ,we have a friend who has a little apartment where he has kept bachelor's hall for many years4 ,here some of our most pleasant evenings have been spent1 and we never fear to go on account of the possibility that he may be embarrassed or inconvenienced through lack of something to eat or drink1 for he is never at a loss to prepare something dainty and appetizing for us1 and it really seems1 sometimes1 that he makes a meal out of nothing4 ,often ,charlie telephones us that he has discovered a new dish and hurries us over to pass judgment on it4 ,and1 by the way1 many of the good dishes of ,bohemia are the result of accident rather than design4 ,out of ,nothing ,it is surprising what a good meal you can get up sometimes when there's not a thing in the house to eat4 ,let us give you an example4 ,one evening two of our young friends came over to tell us their sweet secret1 and with them was another young lady4 ,while we were talking it over and making plans for the wedding another friend dropped in because he said our light looked inviting4 ,an hour or so of talk and then one of us signaled to the other and received the shocking signal back1 ,there's not a thing to eat in the house4 ,this called for an investigation of the larder in which all joined with the following result3 ,item--two cans of reed birds from ,china1 each containing twelve of the little birds as large as your thumb4 ,item--one egg4 ,other items--one onion1 two slices of dry bread1 one green pepper1 rather small1 one dozen crackers4 ,item--one case of imported ,italian ,vin d',oro ,spumanti4 ,item--six hearty appetites to be appeased4 ,the gentleman who saw our light saw another1 and rushed off to a barber shop1 and got four more eggs4 ,barbers use eggs1 and they must be fresh ones1 in shampooing1 and our friend remembered it4 ,the two young ladies and the young man prepared the table1 and the other lady and the two gentlemen set about getting a meal4 ,one of us made an omelet of the five eggs1 the onion and the green pepper1 with crumbs of bread1 and this is the recipe3 ,omelet a la ,peruquier ,take five eggs and beat until very light4 ,roll two slices of dried bread to crumbs and mix with the beaten eggs4 ,chop fine one onion and one green pepper1 season with salt and pepper4 ,pour a tablespoonful of olive oil in an omelet pan and in this fry the peppers and onion to a light brown4 ,when ready turn into this the beaten eggs1 and cook until done4 ,follow the rule of never disturbing a cooking egg or a sleeping child4 ,serve on a hot dish4 ,take two cans of ,chinese reed birds1 open them and take therefrom the two dozen birds contained therein4 ,in a hot frying pan place the birds in the grease that comes around them and heat them through4 ,toast twelve square crackers and on each place two reed birds1 and serve two on each of six hot plates4 ,with both the omelet and the reed birds serve ,vin d',oro4 ,paste ,makes ,waste ,in an ,italian grocery store we noticed a great variety of pastes in boxes arranged along the counter and began counting them4 ,the proprietor noticed us and1 with a characteristic shrug of his shoulders1 said3 ,that is but a few of them4 ,we have not room to show them all4 ,in response to our inquiry regarding the number of kinds of paste made by ,italians he said there were more than seventy-five4 ,ordinarily we think of one--spaghetti--or possibly two1 including macaroni4 ,if our knowledge goes a little farther we think also of tagliarini1 which is the ,italian equivalent of noodles1 as it is made with eggs4 ,in ,new ,york we were much impressed with the stress they laid on the serving of spaghetti1 and one restaurant went so far as to advertise dinners given under the spaghetti vine4 ,it appears that this is the only paste they know anything about4 ,after one eats tagliarini or ravioli one feels like paraphrasing the darkey and saying1 go way spaghetti1 yo done los' yo tase4 ,then comes tortelini which1 like ravioli1 combines paste with meat and spinach4 ,these may be considered the most prominent of the pastes1 the others being variants in the making and cutting1 each serving a special purpose in cooking1 some being for soups1 others for sauces and others for dressing for meats4 ,it is more than probable that the great variety comes from individual tastes in cutting or rolling4 ,all ,italian restaurants serve the paste as a releve rather than as an entree1 which it usually follows1 preceding the roast in the dinner4 ,as a separate and distinct dish it can well be made to serve as a full meal1 especially when tagliarini is prepared after the following recipe3 ,tagliarini ,des ,beaux ,arts ,cook one pound of tagliarini in boiling water twenty-five minutes1 then draw off the water4 ,to the tagliarini add a handful of mushrooms which have been sliced and fried in butter4 ,then add three chicken livers which have been chopped small and fried1 one sliced truffle1 one red pepper chopped fine and a little ,parmesan cheese4 ,make a brown sauce of one-third beef broth thickened with melted butter and flour and two-thirds tomato sauce1 and pour this over the tagliarini4 ,sprinkle with the ,parmesan cheese and serve very hot from a chafing dish4 7,by ,oliver1 chef of the ,restaurant des ,beaux ,arts1 ,paris47 ,in ,san ,francisco one finds both the imported and the domestic paste1 and frequently one hears the assertion that the imported is the better4 ,this idea is born of the thought that all things from ,europe are better than the same made in ,america4 ,in fact the paste that comes from ,italy is neither so good in taste1 nor is it so clean in the making4 ,we have visited a number of paste factories in ,san ,francisco and have found them all scrupulously clean1 with the best of materials in the composition of the pastes4 ,one often wonders how the pastes came to be so many and how they received their names4 ,names of some of them are accidents1 as is illustrated by macaroni4 ,according to an ,italian friend who vouches for the fact1 it received its name from an expression of pleasure4 ,macari means fine1 excellent1 and the superlative is macaroni4 ,a famous ,italian gourmet constantly desired new dishes to please his taste1 and one day his chef carried to him something that was unusual4 ,the gourmet tasted it1 cried out macari6 ,tasted again1 threw out his arms in delight and cried macaroni6 ,what is the name of this wonderful dish8 ,you have named it4 ,it is macaroni4 ,tips and ,tipping ,tipping is variously designated4 ,some say it is a nuisance and should be abolished4 ,some call it an outrage and ask for legislative interference4 ,some say it is an extortion and refuse to pay it4 ,some say it is a necessary evil and suffer it4 ,the wise ones look at it a little differently4 ,possibly it is best explained or excused1 whichever way you wish to call it1 by one of ,gouverneur ,morris's characters in a recent story1 who says3 ,whenever ,i go anywhere ,i find persons in humble situations who smile at me and wish me well4 ,i smile back and wish them well4 ,it is because at some time or other ,i have tipped them4 ,to me the system has never been an annoyance but a delightful opportunity for the exercise of tact and judgment4 ,we look upon tipping as a part of expense to be calculated upon1 necessary to insure good service1 not only now but in the future1 and it should always be computed in the expense of a trip or a dinner4 ,tipping1 to our minds1 is the oil that makes the wheels of life run smoothly4 ,the amount of the tip is always a matter of individual judgment1 dependent upon the service rendered1 and the way it is rendered4 ,the good traveler wants to tip properly1 neither too little nor too much1 thereby getting the best service1 for in the last analysis the pleasure of a trip depends upon the service received4 ,american prodigality and asininity is responsible for much of the abuse of tipping4 ,too many ,americans when they travel desire to appear important and the only way they can accomplish this is by buying the subserviency of menials who laugh at them behind their backs4 ,a tip should always depend upon the service rendered4 ,we make it a rule to withhold the tip from a careless or inconsiderate waiter1 and always add to the tip a word of commendation when there has been extra good service4 ,the amount of the tip depends1 first on the service1 second on the amount of the bill1 and third1 on the character of the place where you are served4 ,when we order a specially prepared dinner1 with our suggestions as to its composition and service1 we tip the head waiter1 the chef1 the waiter and the bus boy4 ,we have given dinners where the tips amounted to fully half as much as the dinner itself1 and we felt that this part of the expense brought us the greatest pleasure4 ,it is impossible to make a hard and fast rule regarding how much to give a waiter4 ,each person must use his or her own judgment4 ,if you are in a foreign country you might do as we did on our first trip to ,paris4 ,we wanted to do what was right but not what most ,americans think is right ,we were at a hotel where only ,french were usually guests1 and in order to do the right thing we took the proprietor into our confidence and explained to him our dilemma4 ,we asked him whom to tip and how much to give1 and he got us out of our difficulty and we found that the tips amounted to about as much for one whole week as we had been held up for in one day at the ,waldorf-,astoria4 ,the ,mythical ,land ,notwithstanding the fact that ,webster gives no recognition in his dictionary to the ,land of ,bohemia or the occupants thereof1 the land exists1 perhaps not in a material way1 but certainly mentally4 ,some have not the perception to see it2 some know not the language that admits entrance2 some pass it by every day without understanding it4 ,yet it as truly exists as any of the lands told of in our childhood fables and fairy stories4 ,the old definition of ,bohemian was a vagabond1 a wayfarer4 ,possibly that definition may1 to a certain extent1 be true of the present-day ,bohemian1 for he is a mental vagabond and a mental wayfarer4 ,in our judgment the word comes from the ,french ,bon ,homme1 for surely the ,bohemian is a good man4 ,whatever may be the derivation the fact remains that not to all is given the perception to understand1 nor the eyes to see1 and therein lies one of the dangers of writing such a book as this4 ,if you read this and then hurry off to a specified restaurant with the expectation of finding the ,bohemian atmosphere in evidence you are apt to be disappointed1 for frequently it is necessary to create your own ,bohemian atmosphere4 ,then1 too1 all nights are not the same at restaurants4 ,for instance if you desire the best service afforded in any restaurant do not select ,saturday or ,sunday night1 but if you will lay aside your desire for personal comfort in service1 and wish to study character1 then take ,saturday or ,sunday night for your visit4 ,it is very possible that you will think the restaurant has changed hands between ,friday and ,saturday4 ,on ,saturday and ,sunday evening the mass of ,san ,francisco's great cosmopolitan population holds holiday and the great feature of the holiday is a restaurant dinner1 where there is music1 and glitter1 and joyous1 human companionship4 ,at such times waiters become careless and sometimes familiar4 ,cooks are rushed to such an extent that they do not give the care to their preparation that they take pride in on other nights1 consoling themselves frequently with the thought that the ,saturday and ,sunday night patrons do not know or appreciate the highest form of gastronomic art4 ,remember1 also1 that the world is a looking glass4 ,smile into it and it smiles back2 frown and you get black looks4 ,in ,bohemia we sometimes find it well to overlook soiled table napery1 sanded floor or untidy appearance4 ,of course this is not in the higher class of restaurants1 but there are times and places when you must remember you are making a study of human interest and not getting a meal1 and you must leave your fastidiousness and squeamishness at home4 ,it takes some time to get well within the inner circle of ,bohemianism1 but after you have arrived you have the password and all doors are open to you4 ,if our friends think of a new story they save it up until our next coming and tell us something that always has a bearing on ,bohemia4 ,for instance1 how few of us know the origin of the menu card4 ,it seems to be a natural thing1 yet1 like all things1 it had a beginning1 and this is the way it began 7according to a good friend who told it to us73 ,frederick the ,great was a lover of good eating and his chef took pride in providing new and rare dishes for his delectation4 ,but it frequently occurred that the great ruler permitted his appetite to overcome his judgment1 and he would eat so heartily of the food first set before him that when later and more delicious dishes came to the table he was unable to do them justice4 ,to obviate this he ordered his chef to prepare each day a list of what was to be served1 and to show their rotation during the meal1 and in compliance with this order the first menu card was written4 ,to ,frederick the ,great is also attributed the naming of the ,german bread now called pumpernickel4 ,according to one of our ,italian friends the story runs this way3 ,frederick wished some bread and his chef sent him in a loaf that was of unusual color and flavor4 ,it did not please the king and he was not slow to express his disapproval4 ,he owned a horse named ,nicholas but commonly called ,nicho6 and when the chef appeared before him to receive his censure for sending in distasteful bread1 ,frederick threw the loaf at his head1 exclaiming1 ,bon pour ,nichol4 ,from this it received its name which has become corrupted to pumpernickel4 ,after the doors are open to you1 you will find not only many new stories1 but you will learn of customs unusual and discover their origin dating back to the days whose history remains only in ,folk ,lore4 ,you will be let into family secrets of the alien quarters1 and will learn of hopes1 aspirations1 and desires1 that will startle you with their strangeness4 ,you will find artists1 sculptors1 and writers of verse in embryo1 and if you remain long enough in the atmosphere you may see1 as we have1 some of these embryonic thinkers achieve fame that becomes nation wide4 ,it is said of the ,islands of the ,south ,seas that when one eats of certain fruit it creates such a longing that the mind is never content until another visit is made4 ,san ,francisco's ,bohemia lays no claim to persuasive fruit1 but it is true that when one breathes in the atmosphere of this mythical world it leaves an unrest that is only appeased by a return to where the whispering winds tell of ,enchanted ,land where you get the best there is to eat1 served in a manner that enhances its flavor and establishes it forever in your memory4 ,appendix ,how to ,serve ,wines ,a few hints regarding the proper serving of wines may not be amiss1 and we give you here the consensus op opinion of the most noted gourmets who have made a study of the best results from combinations4 ,never drink any hard liquors1 such as whisky1 brandy1 gin1 or cocktails1 with oysters or clams1 as it is liable to upset you for the rest of the evening4 ,with hor d'ourves serve vermouth1 sherry1 marsala or madeira wine4 ,with soup and fish serve white wines1 such as ,rhein wine1 sauterne or white burgundy4 ,with entrees serve clarets or other red wines1 such as ,swiss1 ,bordeaux1 ,hungarian or ,italian wines4 ,burgandy may also be served at any of the later courses4 ,with roasts serve champagne or any of the sparkling wines4 ,with coffee serve kirch1 ,french brandy or fine champagne4 ,after coffee serve a liqueur4 ,never serve more than one glass of any liqueur4 ,the following wines may be considered the best types3 ,amontillado1 ,montilo and ,olorosa sherries4 ,austrian burgundy is one of the finest wines1 possessing rich flavor and fine perfume4 ,other burgundies are3 ,chablis3 ,a white burgundy1 dry and of agreeable aroma4 ,chambertin3 ,a sound1 delicate wine with a flavor resembling raspberry4 ,clos de ,vogeot3 ,similar to chambertin1 and often called the king of burgandy4 ,romanee3 ,a very rare and costly wine of rich1 ruby color1 with a delicate bouquet4 ,clarets are valued for their flavor and for their tonic properties4 ,some of the best are3 ,chateau ,grille3 ,a desert wine of good flavor and fine aroma4 ,chateau ,lafitte3 ,has beautiful color and delicate flavor4 ,chateau la ,rose3 ,greater alcoholic strength and of fine flavor4 ,chateau ,margaux3 ,rich1 with delicate flavor and excellent bouquet4 ,pontet ,canet3 ,a heavier wine with good bouquet and fine flavor4 ,st4 ,julien3 ,a lighter claret with good bouquet4 ,german wines are of lighter character1 and are generally termed ,rhein wines4 ,the best varieties are3 ,hochheimer3 ,a light1 pleasing and wholesome wine4 ,brauneberger3 ,a good variety with pleasing flavor and aroma4 ,dreimanner3 ,similar to ,brauneberger4 ,deidesheimer3 ,similar to ,brauneberger4 ,graffenberg3 ,light and pleasant4 ,good aroma4 ,johannisberger ,schloss3 ,one of the best of the ,german wines4 ,rudesheimer ,schloss3 ,in class with ,johannisberger4 ,italian wines are mostly red1 the most noted in ,california being ,chianti1 and its ,california prototype4 ,tipo ,chianti1 made by the ,asti ,colony4 ,lacrima ,christi ,spumanti3 ,the finest ,italian champagne4 ,dry and of magnificent bouquet4 ,vin d',oro ,spumanti3 ,a high-class champagne4 ,sweet and of fine bouquet and flavor4 ,lacrima ,christi3 ,a still wine of excellent flavor and bouquet4 ,malaga3 ,a wine of high repute4 ,sweet and powerful4 ,a peculiar flavor is given to it through the addition of a small quantity of burned wine4 ,marsala3 ,is a golden wine of most agreeable color and aroma4 ,sauterne3 ,is a white ,bordeaux1 a strong luscious wine1 the best known varieties being3 ,chateau ,yquem3 ,remarkable for its rich and velvety softness4 ,barsac3 ,rich and good4 ,chateau ,filhot3 ,of rich color and good flavor4 ,chateau ,latour ,blanche3 ,a white sauterne of exquisite bouquet4 ,haut ,sauterne3 ,soft and mild4 ,of good flavor4 ,vin de ,graves3 ,good and ,strong4 ,good aroma and flavor4 ,vintage years have much to do with the quality of wines4 ,the best vintage years are as follows3 ,champagnes3 #ahib4 ,rhein and ,moselle3 #ahic4 ,burgandy3 #ahib1 #ahii and #aijd4 ,claret3 #ahih and #aijd4 ,port3 #ahif and #aijd4 ,sherry3 #ahhb1 #ahij1 #ahih and #aijj4 ,a ,good ,bohemian ,dinner ,sometimes people desire to give a dinner and are at loss as to the proper time to serve wines4 ,the following menu will give some ideas on the subject3 ,menu ,gibson ,cocktail ,canape ,norwegian 7,serve these before entering dining room7 ,artichoke ,hearts in ,oil ,ripe ,olives ,celery ,amontillado ,sherry ,oysters on ,half ,shell ,bisque of ,ecrevisse ,chablis1 or ,white ,sauterne ,sand-dabs ,edward ,,vii ,sliced ,cucumbers1 ,iced ,escargot ,francais ,chateau ,lafitte ,cassolette of ,terrapin1 ,maryland ,romanee ,tagliarini des ,beaux ,arts ,punch ,pistache ,cigarettes ,alligator ,pears with ,cumquats1 ,french ,dressing ,chicken ,portola ,krug ,private ,cuvee ,brut ,creamed ,new ,potatoes ,celery ,victor ,french ,peas ,zabaione ,reina ,cabot ,coffee ,royal ,cigarettes ,grand ,marnier ,in our travels through ,bohemia it has been our good fortune to gather hundreds of recipes of new1 strange and rare dishes1 prepared by those who look farther than the stoking of the physical system in the preparation of foods4 ,some of these are from chefs in restaurants and hotels1 some from men and women of the foreign colonies and some from good friends who lent their aid in our pleasurable occupation4 ,that we cannot print them all in a volume of this size is our regret1 but another book now in preparation will contain them1 together with other talks about ,san ,francisco's foreign quarters4 ,from our store we have selected the following as being well worth trying3 ,onion ,soup ,cut four large onions in large pieces and put them in six ounces of butter with pepper and salt4 ,slowly stew this in a little beef stock and a little milk1 stirring constantly1 for one hour4 ,add more stock and milk and let cook slowly for another hour4 ,in a tureen place slices of bread sprinkled with two tablespoonfuls of ,parmesan cheese4 ,beat the yolks of four eggs and mix them with a tablespoonful of the soup and pour this over the bread and cheese4 ,cover this for five minutes and then pour over it the rest of the soup4 ,creole ,gumbo ,soup ,take two young chickens1 cut in pieces1 roll in flour and fry to light brown4 ,take the fried chicken1 a ham bone stripped of meat for flavor1 a tablespoonful of chopped thyme1 of rosemary1 two bay leaves1 a sprig of tarragon and boil in four quarts of water until the meat loosens from the bones4 ,slice and fry brown two large onions and add two heaping quarts of sliced okra and one cut up pod of red pepper4 ,stir all over the fire until the okra is thoroughly wilted then remove the larger bones and let cook three quarters of an hour before serving4 ,half an hour before serving add a can of tomatoes or an equal quantity of fresh ones1 and a pint of shrimps1 boiled and shredded4 ,have a dish of well boiled and dry rice and serve with two or three tablespoonfuls in each soup plate4 ,oyster ,salad ,to a solid pint of oysters use a dressing made as follows3 ,beat well two eggs and add to them half a gill each of cream and vinegar1 half teaspoonful mustard1 celery seed1 salt each1 one-tenth teaspoonful cayenne1 and a tablespoonful of butter4 ,put all in a double boiler and cook until it all is as thick as soft custard 7about six minutes71 stirring constantly4 ,take from the fire4 ,heat the oysters in their own liquor to a boiling point then drain and add the dressing1 mixing lightly4 ,set away in cold place until needed4 ,italian ,salad ,soak two salt herrings in milk over night and then remove the bones and skin and cut up in small pieces4 ,cut in small pieces one and one-half pounds each of cold roast veal and cold boiled tongue and add to these and the herrings six boiled potatoes1 half a dozen small cucumber pickles and two small boiled beets1 all cut up1 and two raw apples1 three boiled carrots and one large boiled celery root1 all minced4 ,mix all the above in salad bowl and pour over it mayonnaise dressing4 ,garnish the tops with hard boiled eggs1 sliced1 and capers1 and ripe olives from which the stones have been removed4 ,garnish the bowl with parsley and in the center put hard boiled eggs stuffed with capers4 ,solari's ,crab ,louis ,take meat of crab in large pieces and dress with the following3 ,one-third mayonnaise1 two-thirds chili sauce1 small quantity chopped ,english chow-chow1 a little ,worcestershire sauce and minced tarragon1 shallots and sweet parsley4 ,season with salt and pepper and keep on ice4 ,soles with ,wine ,take fillets of sole and pound lightly with blade of knife then soak them two hours in beaten eggs seasoned with salt and pepper4 ,when ready to cook roll them in bread crumbs and fry in olive oil4 ,take a little of that oil and put in another pan with a tablespoonful of butter and season with salt and pepper and again cook fish in this1 adding half a glass of dry white wine4 ,sprinkle with chopped parsley and let cook five minutes4 ,sprinkle with ,parmesan cheese and put slices of lemon around it4 ,serve on hot plates4 ,grilled ,mushrooms ,skin and remove stalks from large fresh mushrooms and lay on a dish with a little fine olive oil1 pepper1 and salt1 over them for one hour4 ,broil on a gridiron over a clear sharp fire and serve them with the following sauce3 ,mushroom ,sauce ,mince the stalks or any spare pieces of mushrooms fine1 put in a stewpan with a little broth1 some chopped parsley1 young onions1 butter and the juice of a lemon1 or instead of the latter the yolk of an egg beaten up in cream4 ,beat all together and pour around the mushrooms4 ,italian ,turta ,cut very fine the tender part of one dozen artichokes4 ,take one loaf of stale bread crumbs1 moisten and squeeze1 and add three tablespoonfuls of grated cheese1 three cloves of garlic1 bruised1 one onion chopped fine1 several sprigs of parsley chopped fine1 a little celery and half a cup of olive oil4 ,mix all together thoroughly with plenty of pepper and salt and make into a loaf4 ,bake slowly forty-five minutes4 ,oeuffs ,au ,soliel ,poach eight fresh eggs then take them out and place in cold water until cool2 lay them for a quarter of an hour to marinade in a glass of white wine with sweet herbs4 ,dry on a cloth and dip in a batter of flour mixed with equal quantities of ale and water to the consistency of double cream4 ,fry to light brown4 ,eggs with ,wine ,put three cupfuls of red wine ,into a casserole and add three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 rind of half a lemon1 raisins1 and sweet almonds1 blanched and chopped4 ,when the wine boils break the eggs into it as in poaching eggs4 ,let them cook well and then put in serving dish4 ,add one tablespoonful of flour to the wine and cook to a cream then pour over the eggs4 ,italian ,risotto ,soak two level teacups of rice4 ,mash two cloves of garlic and mix with a little minced parsley4 ,soak a dozen dried mushrooms in a little water until soft1 then chop fine and drain4 ,cover the bottom of a saucepan with olive oil1 place over the fire until quite hot1 then put in the garlic1 parsley1 and mushrooms1 add half a can of tomatoes and cook half an hour4 ,drain the rice and put in a saucepan1 adding a little broth1 half a cup at a time1 to keep from burning1 and add1 stirring constantly1 the other ingredients1 cooking all together until the rice is done4 ,salt to taste2 sprinkle with ,parmesan cheese4 ,scallops of ,sweetbread ,parboil the sweetbreads and then glaze in reduced ,allemande sauce4 ,dip in bread crumbs and fry in butter until a light brown4 ,when done dish in close order and fill center with ,toulouse ,ragout1 as follows3 ,toulouse ,ragout ,prepare half a dozen fine1 large cockscombs1 two dozen button mushrooms1 small pieces of sweetbreads and a proportionate quantity of truffles4 ,place all in a stewpan and add a small ladleful of drawn butter sauce1 and the juice of a lemon4 ,cook a few minutes4 ,lamb ,chops ,marinade ,soak kidney lamb chops in the following mixture for twelve hours and then broil3 ,four tablespoonfuls olive oil1 one tablespoonful tarragon vinegar1 one small sliced onion1 one mashed clove of garlic1 one broken up bay leaf1 twelve whole black peppers1 six cloves1 one saltspoon of salt1 two teaspoonfuls dried thyme1 strips of parsley and lemon peel4 ,spanish ,chicken ,pie ,cut up a chicken and boil until tender4 ,cut up and fry in chicken fat two onions1 two green peppers1 stirring in one and one-half tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,have ready five tomatoes1 stewed1 and put in two dozen ripe olives with a small clove of garlic1 mashed4 ,grate seven large ears of corn1 season with salt and put a layer in a greased baking pan1 then chicken1 then the other ingredients1 with a little of the gravy4 ,stir all together and bake until brown4 ,chicken ,jambalaya ,cut a young chicken into small pieces and stew until tender1 having the meat covered with the broth when done4 ,remove the meat1 drain and fry to light brown with two slices of onion4 ,put in the chicken1 onion1 and one hundred ,california oysters1 back into the broth and season with salt1 pepper1 juice of a lemon1 bruised clove of garlic1 chopped green pepper1 and a pinch of red pepper4 ,let all come to a boil4 ,wash and dry two cups of rice and put into the soup and cook until thoroughly done and moderately dry 7twenty-five minutes74 ,serve hot or cold4 ,quajatale ,en ,mole ,this is ,mexican ,turkey in ,red ,pepper1 a favorite banquet dish4 ,cut a young turkey into small pieces and boil with shallots and salt4 ,take half a pound of red peppers1 scalded and seeded1 and grind fine with black peppers1 celery seed1 cloves1 allspice1 and mustard 7about half a teaspoonful of each7 and add to this some of the broth in which the turkey was cooked4 ,put a pound of lard in a skillet and1 when boiling1 put in the mixture with the turkey and let cook ten minutes1 sending it to the table hot4 ,delmonico ,raisin ,sauce ,brown butter in a skillet and stir in a teaspoonful of flour1 forming a smooth paste4 ,add one cup of hot soup stock1 stirring constantly4 ,while boiling put into this a handful of raisins1 handful of blanched almonds1 pounded1 half a lemon1 sliced thin1 a few cloves1 a pinch of cinnamon1 and a little horseradish4 ,fine for roast beef4 ,poulet a la ,napoli ,cut and trim a chicken as for fricassee4 ,take the wings1 drumsticks1 thighs and two pieces of the breast and steep them in cold water half an hour4 ,drain and wipe dry and dust over with flour and set aside4 ,take the rest of the chicken with the giblets and chop small4 ,with water let this simmer for two hours1 making a strong broth with a little veal 7two ounces or more74 ,slice an onion into rings which place in the bottom of a stewpan with an ounce of butter4 ,to this add the meat and giblets and a pint of white broth4 ,let all simmer but not boil or let color4 ,over this pour common broth until covered and bring slowly to boiling point4 ,add a small bouquet of herbs and simmer for an hour1 then strain4 ,thicken a little and then simmer in this the stalks and peelings of a quarter of a pound of mushrooms and the chicken that was previously prepared and dusted with flour4 ,when done strain them and drain the chicken4 ,strain the sauce and thicken with flour until it is of the consistency of a rather thin batter4 ,dip the pieces of chicken into the batter until well coated and set aside until it is cold4 ,then dip the chicken into well-beaten eggs and cover with bread crumbs4 ,let set and then repeat4 ,in hot olive oil fry the chicken until a golden brown4 ,serve on a napkin and garnish with parsley and potatoes ,duchesse4 ,cook the peeled mushrooms in the remaining sauce before the last thickening1 and serve in gravy boat to pour over the chicken4 ,zabaione ,beat together1 hard1 for six minutes1 six eggs and four teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar in a double boiler and place over a gentle fire1 never ceasing to whip until the contents become stiff enough to sustain a coffee spoon upright in the middle4 ,while whipping add three wine-glassfuls of ,marsala and one liqueur glass of ,maraschino brandy4 ,pour into tall glasses or cups and serve either hot or cold4 ,peaches a la ,princesse ,halve six fine peaches1 not too ripe1 and place in saucepan with concave side up4 ,take one peach1 peeled1 and mince with a dozen macaroons1 adding the yolk of an egg and half an ounce of sugar4 ,mix all well together and with this fill the half peaches4 ,moisten all with half a cup of white wine and sprinkle with sugar4 ,bake in a hot oven ten minutes and pour over zabaione and serve4 ,this will make a most delicious dessert dish4 ,sultana ,roll ,add the beaten yolks of seven eggs to one pint of boiling milk1 one cup of sugar1 one-half teaspoonful of vanilla1 one-quarter teaspoonful of almond extract4 ,when thick add two and a half cups of thick cream4 ,cool and freeze4 ,line the bottom of a mold with ,sultana raisins which have been soaked in sherry wine twenty-four hours4 ,put a layer of frozen cream1 then raisins1 continuing until all is used4 ,pack in ice and salt two hours and serve with caramel sauce4 ,caramel ,sauce ,butter the inside of a saucepan4 ,put in two ounces of unsweetened chocolate and melt over hot water4 ,add two cups of light brown sugar and mix well4 ,add one ounce of butter and half a cup of rich milk4 ,cook until mixture forms a soft ball when tested in cold water4 ,flavor with vanilla and pour1 while hot1 over each service of the roll4 ,it immediately hardens1 forming a delicious caramel covering to the ice cream4 ,welsh ,rarebit ,take one pound of mild ,american cheese and put in saucepan4 ,add five wineglassful of old ale1 place over the fire and stir until it is thoroughly blended and melted4 ,pour this over slices of delicately browned toast1 serving hot4 ,coffee ,royal ,take of the best ,mocha coffee one part1 of the best ,java coffee two parts4 ,put six tablespoonfuls of the mixture into a bowl and add an egg1 well beaten4 ,stir the mixture five minutes4 ,add half a cup of cold water1 cover tightly and let stand several hours4 ,put into a coffeepot the coffee mixture and add four large cups of boiling water1 stirring constantly4 ,let it boil briskly for five minutes only then set on the back of the stove five minutes4 ,before serving add a small tablespoonful of pure ,french brandy to each cup4 ,sweeten to taste4 ,reina ,cabot ,mix at table and serve on hot1 toasted ,bent's biscuit4 ,take a quarter of a pound of ripe1 dark ,roquefort cheese and rub with a piece of butter the size of a walnut until smooth1 adding a teaspoonful of ,worcestershire sauce and a wineglassful of sherry1 with a pinch of paprika1 rubbing until it is smooth4 ,this is best mixed in shallow bowl or soup plate4 ,virginia ,egg ,nog ,beat separately the yolks and whites of ten eggs1 the yolks to a soft cream4 ,to the beaten yolks add one pound of granulated sugar1 beating until fully blended and very light4 ,let one quart of fresh milk come to a boil and pour over the yolk of egg and sugar1 stirring constantly until well blended4 ,to this add one gill of ,french brandy or one-half pint of good whisky4 ,on top of this place the beaten white of egg and grated nutmeg4 ,serve either hot or cold4 ,mint ,julep ,bruise several sprigs of mint in a mixing glass with pulverized sugar4 ,fill the glass with ice and pour over it a jigger of whisky4 ,let stand for ten minutes and then put in a dash of ,jamaica rum4 ,dress with sprigs of mint1 and sprinkle with powdered sugar4 ,serve with straws4 ,index ,bills of ,fare ,beefsteak ,spanish ,celery ,victor ,chicken1 ,country ,style ,in the ,shell ,jambalaya ,leon d',oro ,a la ,napoli ,pie 7,spanish7 ,portola ,chili ,rienas ,clam ,fritters ,chowder ,coffee ,royal ,crab ,louis ,stew ,dessert 7,italian7 ,egg ,nog 7,virginia7 ,eggs1 ,spanish ,with ,wine ,des ,soliel ,fish3 ,soles with ,wine ,sole ,edward ,,vii ,sand-dab ,fillet1 ,cold ,fritto ,misto ,lobster a la ,newburg ,lamb ,chops ,marinade ,mussels ,mariniere ,mushrooms1 ,grilled ,mint ,julep ,menu 7,model7 ,oysters a la ,catalan ,a la ,poulette ,omelette ,peaches a la ,princesse ,planked ,fillet ,mignon ,polenti ,quajatole en ,mole ,rice1 ,spanish ,milanaise ,italian ,riena ,cabot ,salad1 ,italian ,palace ,grill ,oyster ,sauer ,braten ,sauce1 ,delmonico ,raisin ,caramel ,mushroom ,scrapple ,shrimp ,creole1 ,antoine ,snails ,bordelalse ,soup3 ,bisque of ,crawfish ,creole ,gumbo ,onion ,sultana ,roll ,sweetbreads ,scalloped ,turta 7,italian7 ,toulouse ,ragout ,tamales ,tagliarini des ,beaux ,arts ,terrapin a la ,maryland ,wines1 ,how to ,serve ,welsh ,rarebit ,zabaoine ,restaurants ,blanco's ,bonini's ,barn ,buon ,gusto ,castilian ,coppa's ,fashion1 ,charlie's ,felix ,fior d',italia ,fly ,trap ,frank's ,fred ,solari's ,gianduja ,hang ,far ,low ,heidelberg ,inn ,hof ,brau ,hotel ,st4 ,francis ,jack's ,jule's ,la ,madrelina ,leon d',oro ,luna's ,mint ,negro's ,odeon ,palace ,hotel ,poodle ,dog ,poodle ,dog--,bergez-,frank's ,portola-,louvre ,rathskeller ,shell ,fish ,grotto ,solari's ,tait's ,techau's ,vesuvius ,old ,time ,restaurants ,bab's ,baldwin ,hotel ,bazzuro's ,bergez ,california ,house ,call ,captain ,cropper ,campi's ,christian ,good ,cliff ,house ,cobweb ,palace ,delmonico ,el ,dorado ,house ,frank's ,gobey's ,good ,fellows' ,grotto ,hoffman ,house ,iron ,house ,johnson's ,oyster ,house ,jack's ,louvre ,ma ,tanta ,manning's ,marchand's ,marshall's ,chop ,house ,martin's ,maison ,doree ,nevada ,new ,york ,old ,louvre ,perini's ,pierre ,poodle ,dog ,pup ,peter ,job ,palace of ,art ,pop ,floyd ,reception ,sanguinetti's ,tehama ,house ,three ,trees ,tortoni ,thompson's ,viticultural ,zinkand's