,,the ,,cook',s ,,decameron ,a ,study ,in ,taste ,containing ,over ,two ,hundred ,recipes ,for ,italian ,dishes ,by ,mrs4 ,w4 ,g4 ,waters ,show me a pleasure like dinner1 which comes every day and lasts an hour4-- ,talleyrand circa #aija ,to ,a4 ,v4 ,in memory of ,certain ,ausonian ,feasts ,preface ,montaigne in one of his essays99 mentions the high excellence ,italian cookery had attained in his day4 ,i have entered into this ,discourse upon the ,occasion of an ,italian ,i lately receiv'd into my ,service1 and who was ,clerk of the ,kitchen to the late ,cardinal ,caraffa till his ,death4 ,i put this ,fellow upon an ,account of his office3 ,where he fell to ,discourse of this ,palate-,science1 with such a settled ,countenance and ,magisterial ,gravity1 as if he had been handling some profound ,point of ,divinity4 ,he made a ,learned ,distinction of the several sorts of ,appetites1 of that of a ,man before he begins to eat1 and of those after the second and third ,service3 ,the ,means simply to satisfy the first1 and then to raise and acute the other two3 ,the ordering of the ,sauces1 first in general1 and then proceeded to the ,qualities of the ,ingredients1 and their ,effects3 ,the ,differences of ,sallets1 according to their seasons1 which ought to be serv'd up hot1 and which cold3 ,the ,manner of their ,garnishment and ,decoration1 to render them yet more acceptable to the ,eye after which he entered upon the ,order of the whole ,service1 full of weighty and important ,considerations4 ,it is consistent with ,montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a ,frenchman4 ,it is a canon of belief with the modern ,englishman that the ,french alone can achieve excellence in the art of cookery1 and when once a notion of this sort shall have found a lodgment in an ,englishman's brain1 the task of removing it will be a hard one4 ,not for a moment is it suggested that ,englishmen or any one else should cease to recognise the sovereign merits of ,french cookery2 all that is entreated is toleration1 and perchance approval1 of cookery of other schools4 ,but the favourable consideration of any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of ,englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by the testing of which they may form a comparison4 ,this universal prevalence of ,french cookery may be held to be a proof of its supreme excellence--that it is first1 and the rest nowhere2 but the victory is not so complete as it seems1 and the facts would bring grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the heart of a ,frenchman like ,brillat-,savarin4 ,for the cookery we meet in the hotels of the great ,european cities1 though it may be based on ,french traditions1 is not the genuine thing1 but a bastard1 cosmopolitan growth1 the same everywhere1 and generally vapid and uninteresting4 ,french cookery of the grand school suffers by being associated with such commonplace achievements4 ,it is noted in the following pages how rarely ,english people on their travels penetrate where true ,italian cookery may be tasted1 wherefore it has seemed worth while to place within the reach of ,english housewives some ,italian recipes which are especially fitted for the presentation of ,english fare to ,english palates under a different and not unappetising guise4 ,most of them will be found simple and inexpensive1 and special care has been taken to include those recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than they have hitherto been treated by ,english cooks4 ,the author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for certain suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the introduction1 and for his courage in dining1 greatly daring1 off many of the dishes4 ,he still lives and thrives4 ,also to ,mrs4 ,mitchell1 her cook1 for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in the work1 for her valuable advice1 and for the care taken in testing the recipes4 ,contents ,prologue ,part ,i ,the ,first ,day ,the ,second ,day4 ,the ,third ,day4 ,the ,fourth ,day ,the ,fifth ,day4 ,the ,sixth ,day4 ,the ,seventh ,day ,the ,eighth ,day ,the ,ninth ,day4 ,the ,tenth ,day4 ,part ,,ii--,recipes ,sauces ,no4 #a4 ,espagnole or ,brown ,sauce4 #b4 ,velute ,sauce4 #c4 ,bechamel ,sauce4 #d4 ,mirepoix ,sauce 7for masking74 #e4 ,genoese ,sauce4 #f4 ,italian ,sauce4 #g4 ,ham ,sauce 7,salsa di ,prosciutto74 #h4 ,tarragon ,sauce4 #i4 ,tomato ,sauce4 #aj4 ,tomato ,sauce ,piquante4 #aa4 ,mushroom ,sauce4 #ab4 ,neapolitan ,sauce4 #ac4 ,neapolitan ,anchovy ,sauce4 #ad4 ,roman ,sauce 7,salsa ,agro-dolce74 #ae4 ,roman ,sauce 7another way74 #af4 ,supreme ,sauce4 #ag4 ,pasta marinate 7for masking ,italian ,frys74 #ah4 ,white ,villeroy4 ,soups #ai4 ,clear ,soup4 #bj4 ,zuppa ,primaverile 7,spring ,soup74 #ba4 ,soup alla ,lombarda4 #bb4 ,tuscan ,soup4 #bc4 ,venetian ,soup4 #bd4 ,roman ,soup4 #be4 ,soup alla ,nazionale4 #bf4 ,soup alla ,modanese4 #bg4 ,crotopo ,soup4 #bh4 ,soup all',imperatrice4 #bi4 ,neapolitan ,soup4 #cj4 ,soup with ,risotto4 #ca4 ,soup alla ,canavese4 #cb4 ,soup alla ,maria l'ia4 #cc4 ,zuppa d',erbe 7,lettuce ,soup74 #cd4 ,zuppa ,regina di ,riso 7,queen's soup74 ,minestre #ce4 ,a ,condiment for ,seasoning ,minestre1 c4 #cf4 ,minestra alla ,casalinga4 #cg4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,turnips4 #ch4 ,minestra alla ,capucina4 #ci4 ,minestra of ,semolina4 #dj4 ,minestrone alla ,milanese4 #da4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,cabbage4 #db4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,celery4 #dc4 ,anguilla alla ,milanese 7,eels74 #dd4 ,filletti di ,pesce alla ,villeroy 7,fillets of ,fish74 #de4 ,astachi all',italiana 7,lobster74 #df4 ,baccala alla ,giardiniera 7,cod74 #dg4 ,triglie alla ,marinara 7,mullet74 #dh4 ,mullet alla ,tolosa4 #di4 ,mullet alla ,triestina4 #ej4 ,whiting alla ,genovese4 #ea4 ,merluzzo in ,bianco 7,cod74 #eb4 ,merluzzo in ,salamoia 7,cod74 #ec4 ,baccala in ,istufato 7,haddock74 #ed4 ,naselli con ,piselli 7,whiting74 #ee4 ,ostriche alla ,livornese 7,oysters74 #ef4 ,ostriche alla ,napolitana 7,oysters74 #eg4 ,ostriche alla ,neneziana 7,oysters74 #eh4 ,pesci diversi alla ,casalinga 7,fish74 #ei4 ,pesce alla ,genovese 7,sole or ,turbot74 #fj4 ,sogliole in ,zimino 7,sole74 #fa4 ,sogliole al tegame 7,sole74 #fb4 ,sogliole alla ,livornese 7,sole74 #fc4 ,sogliole alla ,veneziana 7,sole74 #fd4 ,sogliole alla parmigiana 7,sole74 #fe4 ,salmone alla ,genovese 7,salmon74 #ff4 ,salmone alla ,perigo 7,salmon74 #fg4 ,salmone alla giardiniera 7,salmon74 #fh4 ,salmone alla ,farnese 7,salmon74 #fi4 ,salmone alla ,santa ,fiorentina 7,salmon74 #gj4 ,salmone alla ,francesca 7,salmon74 #ga4 ,fillets of ,salmon in ,papiliotte4 ,beef1 ,mutton1 ,veal1 ,lamb1 c4 #gb4 ,manzo alla ,certosina 7,fillet of ,beef74 #gc4 ,stufato alla ,fiorentina 7,stewed ,beef74 #gd4 ,coscia di ,manzo al ,forno 7,rump ,steak74 #ge4 ,polpettine alla ,salsa ,piccante 7,beef ,olives74 #gf4 ,stufato alla ,milanese 7,stewed ,beef74 #gg4 ,manzo ,marinato ,arrosto 7,marinated ,beef74 #gh4 ,manzo con sugo di ,barbabietole 7,fillet of ,beef74 #gi4 ,manzo in ,insalata 7,marinated ,beef74 #hj4 ,filetto di ,bue con ,pistacchi 7,fillets of ,beef with ,pistacchios74 #ha4 ,scalopini di ,rizo 7,beef with ,risotto74 #hb4 ,tenerumi alla ,piemontese 7,tendons of ,veal74 #hc4 ,bragiuole di ,vitello 7,veal ,cutlets74 #hd4 ,costolette alla ,monza 7,veal ,cutlets74 #he4 ,vitello alla ,pellegrina 7,breast of ,veal74 #hf4 ,frittura ,piccata al ,marsala 7,fillet of ,veal74 #hg4 ,polpettine ,distese 7,veal ,olives74 #hh4 ,coste di ,vitello ,imboracciate 7,ribs of ,veal74 #hi4 ,costolette di ,montone alla ,nizzarda 7,mutton ,cutlets74 #ij4 ,petto di ,castrato all',italiana 7,breast of ,mutton74 #ia4 ,petto di ,castrato alla ,salsa piccante 7,breast of ,mutton74 #ib4 ,tenerumi d' ,agnello alla ,villeroy 7,tendons of ,lamb74 #ic4 ,tenerumi d' ,agnello alla ,veneziana 7,tendons of ,lamb74 #id4 ,costoletto d',agnello alla ,costanza 7,lamb ,cutlets74 ,tongue1 ,sweetbread1 ,calf's ,head1 ,liver1 ,sucking ,pig1 c4 #ie4 ,timballo alla ,romana4 #if4 ,timballo alla ,lombarda4 #ig4 ,lingua alla ,visconti 7,tongue74 #ih4 ,lingua di ,manzo al ,citriuoli 7,tongue with ,cucumber74 #ii4 ,lingue di ,castrato alla ,cuciniera 7,sheep's ,tongues74 #ajj44 ,lingue di ,vitello all',italiana 7,calves' ,tongues74 #aja4 ,porcelletto alla ,corradino 7,sucking ,pig74 #ajb4 ,porcelletto da ,latte in ,galantina 7,sucking ,pig74 #ajc4 ,ateletti alla ,sarda4 #ajd4 ,ateletti alla ,genovese4 #aje4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,sorrentina 7,calf's ,head74 #ajf4 ,testa di ,vitello con ,salsa ,napoletana 7,calf's head74 #ajg4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,pompadour 7,calf's ,head74 #ajh4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,sanseverino 7,calf's ,head74 #aji4 ,testa di ,vitello in ,frittata 7,calf's ,head74 #aaj4 ,zampetti 7,calves' ,feet74 #aaa4 ,bodini ,marinati4 #aab4 ,animelle alla ,parmegiana 7,sweetbread74 #aac4 ,animelle in ,cartoccio 7,sweetbread74 #aad4 ,animelle all',italiana 7,sweetbread74 #aae4 ,animelle ,lardellate 7,sweetbread74 #aaf4 ,frittura di ,bottoni e di ,animelle 7,sweetbreads and ,mushrooms74 #aag4 ,cervello in ,filiserbe 7,calf's ,brains74 #aah4 ,cervello alla ,milanese 7,calf's ,brains74 #aai4 ,cervello alla ,villeroy 7,calf's ,brains74 #abj4 ,frittuta of ,cervello 7,calf's ,brains74 #aba4 ,cervello alla ,frittata ,montano 7,calf's ,brains74 #abb4 ,marinata di ,cervello alla ,villeroy 7,calf's ,brains74 #abc4 ,minuta alla ,milanese 7,lamb's ,sweetbread74 #abd4 ,animelle al ,sapor di ,targone 7,lamb's ,fry74 #abe4 ,fritto ,misto alla ,villeroy4 #abf4 ,fritto ,misto alla ,piemontese4 #abg4 ,minuta di ,fegatini 7,ragout of ,fowls' ,livers74 #abh4 ,minuta alla ,visconti 7,chickens' ,livers74 #abi4 ,croutons alla ,principessa4 #acj4 ,croutons alla ,romana4 ,fowl1 ,duck1 ,game1 ,hare1 ,rabbit1 c4 #aca4 ,soffiato di ,cappone 7,fowl ,souffle74 #acb4 ,pollo alla ,fiorentina 7,chicken74 #acc4 ,pollo ali',oliva 7,chicken74 #acd4 ,pollo alla ,villereccia 7,chicken74 #ace4 ,pollo alla ,cacciatora 7,chicken74 #acf4 ,pollastro alla ,lorenese 7,fowl74 #acg4 ,pollastro in ,fricassea al ,burro 7,fowl74 #ach4 ,pollastro in istufa di ,pomidoro 7,braized ,fowl74 #aci4 ,cappone con ,riso 7,capon with ,rice74 #adj4 ,dindo ,arrosto alla ,milanese 7,roast ,turkey74 #ada4 ,tacchinotto all',istriona 7,turkey ,poult74 #adb4 ,fagiano alla ,napoletana 7,pheasant74 #adc4 ,fagiano alla ,perigo 7,pheasant74 #add4 ,anitra ,selvatica 7,wild ,duck74 #ade4 ,perniciotti alla ,gastalda 7,partridges74 #adf4 ,piccioni alla ,diplomatica 7,snipe74 #adg4 ,piccioni alla minute 7,pigeons7 #adh4 ,piccioni in ,ripieno 7,stuffed ,pigeons74 #adi4 ,lepre in istufato 7,stewed ,hare74 #aej4 ,lepre ,agro-dolce 7,hare74 #aea4 ,coniglio alla ,provenzale 7,rabbit74 #aeb4 ,coniglio arrostito alla ,corradino 7,roast ,rabbit74 #aec4 ,coniglio in salsa ,piccante 7,rabbit74 ,vegetables #aed4 ,asparagi alla salsa ,suprema 7,asparagus74 #aee4 ,cavoli di ,bruxelles alla ,savoiarda 7,brussels ,sprouts74 #aef4 ,barbabietola alla ,parmigiana 7,beetroot74 #aeg4 ,fave alla ,savoiarda 7,beans74 #aeh4 ,verze alla ,capuccina 7,cabbage74 #aei4 ,cavoli fiori alla ,lionese 7,cauliflower74 #afj4 ,cavoli fiori fritti 7,cauliflower74 #afa4 ,cauliflower alla ,parmigiana4 #afb4 ,cavoli ,fiori ,ripieni4 #afc4 ,sedani alla l'armigiana 7,celery74 #afd4 ,sedani ,fritti all',italiana 7,celery74 #afe4 ,cetriuoli alla ,parmigiana 7,cucumber74 #aff4 ,cetriuoli alla ,borghese 7,cucumber74 #afg4 ,carote al sughillo 7,carrots74 #afh4 ,carote e piselli alla panna 7,carrots and peas74 #afi4 ,verze alla ,certosina 7,cabbage74 #agj4 ,lattughe al sugo 7,lettuce74 #aga4 ,lattughe farcite alla ,genovese 7,lettuce74 #agb4 ,funghi cappelle infarcite 7,stuffed ,mushrooms74 #agc4 ,verdure miste 7,macedoine of ,vegetables74 #agd4 ,patate alla crema 7,potatoes in cream74 #age4 ,cestelline cli patate alla giardiniera 7,potatoes74 #agf4 ,patate al ,pomidoro 7,potatoes with ,tomato ,sauce74 #agg4 ,spinaci alla ,milanese 7,spinach74 #agh4 ,insalata di patate 7,potato salad74 #agi4 ,insalata alla ,navarino 7,salad74 #ahj4 ,insalata di pomidoro 7,tomato ,salad74 #aha4 ,tartufi alla ,dino 7,truffles74 ,macaroni1 ,rice1 ,polenta1 ,all ,other ,italian ,pastes #ahb4 ,macaroni with ,tomatoes ,macaroni alla ,casalinga4 #ahc4 ,macaroni al ,sughillo4 #ahd4 ,macaroni alla ,livornese4 #ahf4 ,tagliarelle and ,lobster4 #ahg4 ,polenta4 #ahh4 ,polenta ,pasticciata4 #ahi4 ,battuffoli4 #aij4 ,risotto all',italiana4 #aia4 ,risotto alla ,genoxese4 #aib4 ,risotto alla ,spagnuola4 #aic4 ,risotto alla ,capuccina4 #aid4 ,risotto alla ,parigina4 #aie4 ,ravioli4 #aif4 ,ravioli alla ,fiorentina4 #aig4 ,gnoechi alla ,romana4 #aih4 ,gnoechi alla ,lombarda4 #aii4 ,frittata di ,riso 7,savoury ,rice ,pancake74 ,omelettes and ,other ,egg ,dishes #bjj4 ,uova ai ,tartufi 7,eggs with ,truffles74 #bja4 ,uova al ,pomidoro 7,eggs and ,tomatoes74 #bjb4 ,uova ripiene 7,canapes of ,egg74 #bjc4 ,uova alla ,fiorentina 7,eggs74 #bjd4 ,uova in fili 7,egg ,canapes74 #bje4 ,frittata di funghi 7,mushroom ,omelette74 #bjf4 ,frittata eon ,pomidoro 7,tomato ,omelette74 #bjg4 ,frittata con ,asparagi 7,asparagus ,omelette74 #bjh4 ,frittata eon erbe 7,omelette with ,herbs74 #bji4 ,frittata ,montata 7,omelette ,souffle'74 #baj4 ,frittata di ,proseiutto 7,ham ,omelette74 ,sweets and ,cakes #baa4 ,bodino off ,semolina4 #bab4 ,crema rappresa 7,coffee ,cream74 #bac4 ,crema ,montata alle ,fragole 7,strawberry ,cream74 #bad4 ,croccante di ,mandorle 7,cream ,nougat74 #bae4 ,crema tartara alla ,caramella 7,caramel ,cream74 #baf4 ,cremona ,cake4 #bag4 ,cake alla ,tolentina4 #bah4 ,riso all',imperatrice4 #bai4 ,amaretti leggier 7,almond ,cakes74 #bbj4 ,cakes alla ,livornese4 #bba4 ,genoese ,pastry4 #bbb4 ,zabajone4 #bbc4 ,iced ,zabajone4 #bbd4 ,panforte di ,siena 7,sienese ,hardbake74 ,new ,century ,sauce #bbe4 ,fish ,sauce4 #bbf4 ,sauce ,piquante 7for ,meat1 ,fowl1 ,game1 ,rabbit1 c474 #bbg4 ,sauce for ,venison1 ,hare1 c4 #bbh4 ,tomato ,sauce ,piquante4 #bbi4 ,sauce for ,roast ,pork1 ,ham1 c4 #bcj4 ,for masking ,cutlets1 c4 ,,part ,i4 ,,the ,,cook',s ,,decameron ,prologue ,the ,marchesa di ,sant',andrea finished her early morning cup of tea1 and then took up the batch of correspondence which her maid had placed on the tray4 ,the world had a way of treating her in kindly fashion1 and hostile or troublesome letters rarely veiled their ugly faces under the envelopes addressed to her2 wherefore the perfection of that pleasant half-hour lying between the last sip of tea and the first step to meet the new day was seldom marred by the perusal of her morning budget4 ,the apartment which she graced with her seemly presence was a choice one in the ,mayfair ,hotel1 one which she had occupied for the past four or five years during her spring visit to ,london2 a visit undertaken to keep alive a number of pleasant ,english friendships which had begun in ,rome or ,malta4 ,london had for her the peculiar attraction it has for so many ,italians1 and the weeks she spent upon its stones were commonly the happiest of the year4 ,the review she took of her letters before breaking the seals first puzzled her1 and then roused certain misgivings in her heart4 ,she recognised the handwriting of each of the nine addresses1 and at the same time recalled the fact that she was engaged to dine with every one of the correspondents of this particular morning4 ,why should they all be writing to her8 ,she had uneasy forebodings of postponement1 and she hated to have her engagements disturbed2 but it was useless to prolong suspense1 so she began by opening the envelope addressed in the familiar handwriting of ,sir ,john ,oglethorpe1 and this was what ,sir ,john had to say-- ,my ,dear ,marchesa1 words1 whether written or spoken1 are powerless to express my present state of mind4 ,in the first place1 our dinner on ,thursday is impossible1 and in the second1 ,i have lost ,narcisse and forever4 ,you commented favourably upon that supreme of lobster and the ,ris de ,veau a la ,renaissance we tasted last week1 but never again will you meet the handiwork of ,narcisse4 ,he came to me with admirable testimonials as to his artistic excellence2 with regard to his moral past ,i was1 ,i fear1 culpably negligent1 for ,i now learn that all the time he presided over my stewpans he was wanted by the ,french police on a charge of murdering his wife4 ,a young lady seems to have helped him2 so ,i fear ,narcisse has broken more than one of the commandments in this final escapade4 ,the truly great have ever been subject to these momentary aberrations1 and ,narcisse being now in the hands of justice--so called--our dinner must needs stand over1 though not1 ,i hope1 for long4 ,meantime the only consolation ,i can perceive is the chance of a cup of tea with you this afternoon4 ,j4 ,o4 ,sir ,john ,oglethorpe had been her husband's oldest and best friend4 ,he and the ,marchesa had first met in ,sardinia1 where they had both of them gone in pursuit of woodcock1 and since the ,marchesa had been a widow1 she and ,sir ,john had met either in ,rome or in ,london every year4 ,the dinner so tragically manque had been arranged to assemble a number of ,anglo-,italian friends2 and1 as ,sir ,john was as perfect as a host as ,narcisse was as a cook1 the disappointment was a heavy one4 ,she threw aside the letter with a gesture of vexation1 and opened the next4 ,sweetest ,marchesa1 it began1 how can ,i tell you my grief at having to postpone our dinner for ,friday4 ,my wretched cook 7,i gave her seventy-five pounds a year71 whom ,i have long suspected of intemperate habits1 was hopelessly inebriated last night1 and had to be conveyed out of the house by my husband and a dear1 devoted friend who happened to be dining with us1 and deposited in a four-wheeler4 ,may ,i look in tomorrow afternoon and pour out my grief to you8 ,yours cordially1 ,pamela ,st4 ,aubyn ,fothergill4 ,when the ,marchesa had opened four more letters1 one from ,lady ,considine1 one from ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 one from ,miss ,macdonnell1 and one from ,mrs4 ,wilding1 and found that all these ladies were obliged to postpone their dinners on account of the misdeeds of their cooks1 she felt that the laws of average were all adrift4 ,surely the three remaining letters must contain news of a character to counterbalance what had already been revealed1 but the event showed that1 on this particular morning1 ,fortune was in a mood to strike hard4 ,colonel ,trestrail1 who gave in his chambers carefully devised banquets1 compounded by a ,bengali who was undoubtedly something of a genius1 wrote to say that this personage had left at a day's notice1 in order to embrace ,christianity and marry a lady's-maid who had just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds under the will of her late mistress4 ,another correspondent1 ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 wrote that her ,german cook had announced that the dignity of womanhood was1 in her opinion1 slighted by the obligation to prepare food for others in exchange for mere pecuniary compensation4 ,only on condition of the grant of perfect social equality would she consent to stay1 and ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 though she held advanced opinions1 was hardly advanced far enough to accept this suggestion4 ,last of all1 ,mr4 ,sebastian van der ,roet was desolate to announce that his cook1 a ,japanese1 whose dishes were1 in his employer's estimation1 absolute inspirations1 had decamped and taken with him everything of value he could lay hold of2 and more than desolate1 that he was forced to postpone the pleasure of welcoming the ,marchesa di ,sant' ,andrea at his table4 ,when she had finished reading this last note1 the ,marchesa gathered the whole mass of her morning's correspondence together1 and uttering a few ,italian words which need not be translated1 rolled it into a ball and hurled the same to the farthest corner of the room4 ,how is it1 she ejaculated1 that these ,english1 who dominate the world abroad1 cannot get their food properly cooked at home8 ,i suppose it is because they1 in their lofty way1 look upon cookery as a non-essential1 and consequently fall victims to gout and dyspepsia1 or into the clutches of some international brigandaccio1 who declares he is a cordon bleu4 ,one hears now and again pleasant remarks about the worn-out ,latin races1 but ,i know of one ,latin race which can do better than this in cookery4 ,and having thus delivered herself1 the ,marchesa lay back on the pillows and reviewed the situation4 ,she was sorry in a way to miss the ,colonel's dinner4 ,the dishes which the ,bengali cook turned out were excellent1 but the host himself was a trifle dictatorial and too fond of the sound of his own voice1 while certain of the inevitable guests were still worse4 ,mrs4 ,gradinger's letter came as a relief2 indeed the ,marchesa had been wondering why she had ever consented to go and pretend to enjoy herself by eating an ill-cooked dinner in company with social reformers and educational prigs4 ,she really went because she liked ,mr4 ,gradinger1 who was as unlike his wife as possible1 a stout youth of forty1 with a breezy manner and a decided fondness for sport4 ,lady ,considine's dinners were indifferent1 and the guests were apt to be a bit too smart and too redolent of last season's ,monte ,carlo odour4 ,the ,sinclairs gave good dinners to perfectly selected guests1 and by reason of this virtue1 one not too common1 the host and hostess might be pardoned for being a little too well satisfied with themselves and with their last new bibelot4 ,the ,fothergill dinners were like all other dinners given by the ,fothergills of society4 ,they were costly1 utterly undistinguished1 and invariably graced by the presence of certain guests who seemed to have been called in out of the street at the last moment4 ,van der ,roet's ,japanese menus were curious1 and at times inimical to digestion1 but the personality of the host was charming4 ,as to ,sir ,john ,oglethorpe1 the question of the dinner postponed troubled her little3 another repast1 the finest that ,london's finest restaurant could furnish1 would certainly be forthcoming before long4 ,in ,sir ,john's case1 her discomposure took the form of sympathy for her friend in his recent bereavement4 ,he had been searching all his life for a perfect cook1 and he had found1 or believed he had found1 such an one in ,narcisse2 wherefore the ,marchesa was fully persuaded that1 if that artist should evade the guillotine1 she would again taste his incomparable handiwork1 even though he were suspected of murdering his whole family as well as the partner of his joys4 ,that same afternoon a number of the balked entertainers foregathered in the ,marchesa's drawing-room1 the dominant subject of discourse being the approaching dissolution of ,london society from the refusal of one human to cook food for another4 ,those present were gathered in two groups4 ,in one the ,colonel1 in spite of the recent desertion of his ,oriental1 was asserting that the ,government should be required to bring over consignments of perfectly trained ,indian cooks1 and thus trim the balance between dining room and kitchen2 and to the other ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 a gaunt1 ill-dressed lady in spectacles1 with a commanding nose and dull1 wispy hair1 was proclaiming in a steady metallic voice1 that it was absolutely necessary to double the school rate at once in order to convert all the girls and some of the boys as well1 into perfectly equipped food-cooking animals2 but her audience gradually fell away1 and in an interval of silence the voice of the hostess was heard giving utterance to a tentative suggestion4 ,but1 my dear1 it is inconceivable that the comfort and the movement of society should depend on the humours of its servants4 ,i don't blame them for refusing to cook if they dislike cooking1 and can find other work as light and as well paid2 but1 things being as they are1 ,i would suggest that we set to work somehow to make ourselves independent of cooks4 ,that 'somehow' is the crux1 my dear ,livia1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair4 ,i have a plan of my own1 but ,i dare not breathe it1 for ,i'm sure ,mrs4 ,gradinger would call it 'anti-social1' whatever that may mean4 ,i should imagine that it is a term which might be applied to any scheme which robs society of the ministrations of its cooks1 said ,sir ,john4 ,i have heard mathematicians declare that what is true of the whole is true of its parts1 said the ,marchesa4 ,i daresay it is1 but ,i never stopped to inquire4 ,i will amplify on my own account1 and lay down that what is true of the parts must be true of the whole4 ,i'm sure that sounds quite right4 ,now ,i1 as a unit of society1 am independent of cooks because ,i can cook myself1 and if all the other units were independent1 society itself would be independent--ecco6 ,to speak in this tone of a serious science like ,euclid seems rather frivolous1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger4 ,i may observe-- but here mercifully the observation was checked by the entry of ,mrs4 ,st4 ,aubyn ,fothergill4 ,she was a handsome woman1 always dominated by an air of serious preoccupation1 sumptuously1 but not tastefully dressed4 ,in the social struggle upwards1 wealth was the only weapon she possessed1 and wealth without dexterity has been known to fail before this4 ,she made efforts1 indeed1 to imitate ,mrs4 ,sinclair in the elegancies of menage1 and to pose as a woman of mind after the pattern of ,mrs4 ,gradinger2 but the task first named required too much tact1 and the other powers of endurance which she did not possess4 ,you'll have some tea1 ,mrs4 ,fothergill8 said the ,marchesa4 ,it's so good of you to have come4 ,no1 really1 ,i can't take any tea2 in fact1 ,i couldn't take any lunch out of vexation at having to put you off1 my dear ,marchesa4 ,oh1 these accidents will occur4 ,we were just discussing the best way of getting round them1 said the ,marchesa4 ,now1 dear1--speaking to ,mrs4 ,sinclair--let's have your plan4 ,mrs4 ,gradinger has fastened like a leech on the ,canon and ,mrs4 ,wilding1 and won't hear a word of what you have to say4 ,well1 my scheme is just an amplification of your mathematical illustrations1 that we should all learn to cook for ourselves4 ,i regard it no longer as impossible1 or even difficult1 since you have informed us that you are a mistress of the art4 ,we'll start a new school of cookery1 and you shall teach us all you know4 ,ah1 my dear ,laura1 you are like certain ,english women in the hunting field4 ,you are inclined to rush your fences1 said the ,marchesa with a deprecatory gesture4 ,and just look at the people gathered here in this room4 ,wouldn't they--to continue the horsey metaphor--be rather an awkward team to drive8 ,not at all1 if you had them in suitable surroundings4 ,now1 supposing some beneficent millionaire were to lend us for a month or so a nice country house1 we might install you there as ,mistress of the stewpans1 and sit at your feet as disciples1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair4 ,the idea seems first-rate1 said ,van der ,roet2 and ,i suppose1 if we are good little boys and girls1 and learn our lessons properly1 we may be allowed to taste some of our own dishes4 ,might not that lead to a confusion between rewards and punishments8 said ,sir ,john4 ,if ever it comes to that1 said ,miss ,macdonnell with a mischievous glance out of a pair of dark1 flashing ,celtic eyes1 ,i hope that our mistress will inspect carefully all pupils' work before we are asked to eat it4 ,i don't want to sit down to another of ,mr4 ,van der ,roet's ,japanese salads made of periwinkles and wallflowers4 ,and we must first catch our millionaire1 said the ,colonel4 ,during these remarks ,mrs4 ,fothergill had been standing with parted lips and straining eyes1 the eyes of one who is seeking to cut in4 ,now came her chance4 ,what a delightful idea dear ,mrs4 ,sinclair's is4 ,we have been dreadfully extravagant this year over buying pictures1 and have doubled our charitable subscriptions1 but ,i believe ,i can still promise to act in a humble way the part of ,mrs4 ,sinclair's millionaire4 ,we have just finished doing up the ',laurestinas1' a little place we bought last year1 and it is quite at your service1 ,marchesa1 as soon as you liketo occupy it4 ,this unlooked-for proposition almost took away the ,marchesa's breath4 ,ah1 ,mrs4 ,fothergill1 she said1 it was ,mrs4 ,sinclair's plan1 not mine4 ,she kindly wishes to turn me into a cook for ,i know not how long1 just at the hottest season of the year1 a fate ,i should hardly have chosen for myself4 ,my dear1 it would be a new sensation1 and one you would enjoy beyond everything4 ,i am sure it is a scheme every one here will hail with acclamation1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair4 ,all other conversation had now ceased1 and the eyes of the rest of the company were fixed on the speaker4 ,ladies and gentlemen1 she went on1 you have heard my suggestion1 and you have heard ,mrs4 ,fothergill's most kind and opportune offer of her country house as the seat of our school of cookery4 ,such an opportunity is one in ten thousand4 ,surely all of us---even the ,marchesa--must see that it is one not to be neglected4 ,i approve thoroughly1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger2 the acquisition of knowledge1 even in so material a field as that of cookery1 is always a clear gain4 ,it will give ,gradinger a chance to put in a couple of days at ,ascot1 whispered ,van der ,roet4 ,where ,mrs4 ,gradinger leads1 all must follow1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,take the sense of the meeting1 ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 before the ,marchesa has time to enter a protest4 ,and is the proposed instructress to have no voice in the matter8 said the ,marchesa1 laughing4 ,none at all1 except to consent1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair2 you are going to be absolute mistress over us for the next fortnight1 so you surely might obey just this once4 ,you have been denouncing one of our cherished institutions1 ,marchesa1 said ,lady ,considine1 so ,i consider you are bound to help us to replace the ,british cook by something better4 ,if ,mrs4 ,sinclair has set her heart on this interesting experiment4 ,you may as well consent at once1 ,marchesa1 said the ,colonel1 and teach us how to cook1 and--what may be a harder task--to teach us to eat what other aspirants may have cooked4 ,if this scheme really comes off1 said ,sir ,john1 ,i would suggest that the ,marchesa should always be provided with a plate of her own up her sleeve--if ,i may use such an expression--so that any void in the menu1 caused by failure on the part of the under-skilled or over-ambitious amateur1 may be filled by what will certainly be a chef-d'oeuvre4 ,i shall back up ,mrs4 ,sinclair's proposition with all my power1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding4 ,the ,canon will be in residence at ,martlebridge for the next month1 and ,i would much rather be learning cookery under the ,marchesa than staying with my brother-in-law at ,ealing4 ,you'll have to do it1 ,marchesa1 said ,van der ,roet2 when a new idea catches on like this1 there's no resisting it4 ,well1 ,i consent on one condition--that my rule shall be absolute1 said the ,marchesa1 and ,i begin my career as an autocrat by giving ,mrs4 ,fothergill a list of the educational machinery ,i shall want1 and commanding her to have them all ready by ,tuesday morning1 the day on which ,i declare the school open4 ,a chorus of applause went up as soon as the ,marchesa ceased speaking4 ,everything shall be ready1 said ,mrs4 ,fothergill1 radiant with delight that her offer had been accepted1 and ,i will put in a full staff of servants selected from our three other establishments4 ,would it not be as well to send the cook home for a holiday8 said the ,colonel4 ,it might be safer1 and lead to less broth being spoilt4 ,it seems1 said ,sir ,john1 that we shall be ten in number1 and ,i would therefore propose that1 after an illustrious precedent1 we limit our operations to ten days4 ,then if we each produce one culinary poem a day we shall1 at the end of our time1 have provided the world with a hundred new reasons for enjoying life1 supposing1 of course1 that we have no failures4 ,i propose1 therefore1 that our society be called the ',new ,decameron4' ,most appropriate1 said ,miss ,macdonnell1 especially as it owes its origin to an outbreak of plague--the plague in the kitchen4 ,the ,first ,day ,on the ,tuesday morning the ,marchesa travelled down to the ,laurestinas1 where she found that ,mrs4 ,fothergill had been as good as her word4 ,everything was in perfect order4 ,the ,marchesa had notified to her pupils that they must report themselves that same evening at dinner1 and she took down with her her maid1 one of those marvellous ,italian servants who combine fidelity with efficiency in a degree strange to the denizens of more progressive lands4 ,now1 with ,angelina's assistance1 she proposed to set before the company their first dinner all',italiana1 and the last they would taste without having participated in the preparation4 ,the real work was to begin the following morning4 ,the dinner was both a revelation and a surprise to the majority of the company4 ,all were well travelled1 and all had eaten of the mongrel ,french dishes given at the ,grand hotels of the principal ,italian cities1 and some of them1 in search of adventures1 had dined at ,london restaurants with ,italian names over the doors1 where--with certain honourable exceptions--the cookery was ,french1 and not of the best1 certain ,italian plates being included in the carte for a regular clientele1 dishes which would always be passed over by the ,english investigator1 because he now read1 or tried to read1 their names for the first time4 ,few of the ,marchesa's pupils had ever wandered away from the arid table d'hote in ,milan1 or ,florence1 or ,rome1 in search of the ristorante at which the better class of townsfolk were wont to take their colazione4 ,indeed1 whenever an ,englishman does break fresh ground in this direction1 he rarely finds sufficient presence of mind to controvert the suggestions of the smiling minister who1 having spotted his ,inglese1 at once marks down an omelette aux fines herbes and a biftek aux pommes as the only food such a creature can consume4 ,thus the culinary experiences of ,englishmen in ,italy have led to the perpetuation of the legend that the traveller can indeed find decent food in the large towns1 because the cooking there is all ,french1 you know1 but that1 if he should deviate from the beaten track1 unutterable horrors1 swimming in oil and reeking with garlic1 would be his portion4 ,oil and garlic are in popular ,english belief the inseparable accidents of ,italian cookery1 which is supposed to gather its solitary claim to individuality from the never-failing presence of these admirable1 but easily abused1 gifts of ,nature4 ,you have given us a delicious dinner1 ,marchesa1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding as the coffee appeared4 ,you mustn't think me captious in my remarks--indeed it would be most ungracious to look a gift-dinner in the--,what are you laughing at1 ,sir ,john8 ,i suppose ,i've done something awful with my metaphors--mixed them up somehow4 ,everything ,mrs4 ,wilding mixes will be mixed admirably1 as admirably1 say1 as that sauce which was served with the ,manzo alla ,certosina1 ,sir ,john replied4 ,that is said in your best style1 ,sir ,john1 replied ,mrs4 ,wilding2 but what ,i was going to remark was1 that ,i1 as a poor parson's wife1 shall ask for some instruction in inexpensive cooking before we separate4 ,the dinner we have just eaten is surely only within the reach of rich people4 ,i wish some of the rich people ,i dine with could manage now and then to reach a dinner as good1 said the ,colonel4 ,i believe it is a generally received maxim1 that if you want a truth to be accepted you must repeat the same in season and out1 whenever you have the opportunity1 said the ,marchesa4 ,the particular truth ,i have now in mind is the fact that ,italian cookery is the cookery of a poor nation1 of people who have scant means wherewith to purchase the very inferior materials they must needs work with2 and that they produce palatable food at all is1 ,i maintain1 a proof that they bring high intelligence to the task4 ,italian culinary methods have been developed in the struggle when the cook1 working with an allowance upon which an ,english cook would resign at once1 has succeeded by careful manipulation and the study of flavouring in turning out excellent dishes made of fish and meat confessedly inferior4 ,now1 if we loosen the purse-strings a little1 and use the best ,english materials1 ,i affirm that we shall achieve a result excellent enough to prove that ,italian cookery is worthy to take its stand beside its great ,french rival4 ,i am glad ,mrs4 ,wilding has given me an opportunity to impress upon you all that its main characteristics are simplicity and cheapness1 and ,i can assure her that1 even if she should reproduce the most costly dishes of our course1 she will not find any serious increase in her weekly bills4 ,when ,i use the word simplicity1 ,i allude1 of course1 to everyday cooking4 ,dishes of luxury in any school require elaboration1 care1 and watchfulness4 ,menu--,dinner 99 ,zuppa d'uova alla ,toscana4 ,tuscan egg-soup4 ,sogliole alla ,livornese4 ,sole alla ,livornese4 ,manzo alla ,certosina4 ,fillet of beef1 ,certosina sauce4 ,minuta alla ,milanese4 ,chickens' livers alla ,milanese4 ,cavoli fiodi ripieni4 ,cauliflower with forcemeat4 ,cappone arrosto con insalata4 ,roast capon with salad4 ,zabajone4 ,spiced custard4 ,uova al pomidoro4 ,eggs and tomatoes4 99 ,the recipes for the dishes contained in all these menus will be found in the second part of the book4 ,the limits of the seasons have necessarily been ignored4 ,the ,second ,day ,wednesday's luncheon was anticipated with some curiosity1 or even searchings of heart1 as in it would appear the first-fruits of the hand of the amateur4 ,the ,marchesa wisely restricted it to two dishes1 for the compounding of which she requisitioned the services of ,lady ,considine1 ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 and the ,colonel4 ,the others she sent to watch ,angelina and her circle while they were preparing the vegetables and the dinner entrees4 ,after the luncheon dishes had been discussed1 they were both proclaimed admirable4 ,it was a true bit of ,italian finesse on the part of the ,marchesa to lay a share of the responsibility of the first meal upon the ,colonel1 who was notoriously the most captious and the hardest to please of all the company2 and she did even more than make him jointly responsible1 for she authorised him to see to the production of a special curry of his own invention1 the recipe for which he always carried in his pocket-book1 thus letting ,india share with ,italy in the honours of the first luncheon4 ,my congratulations to you on your curry1 ,colonel ,trestrail1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,you haven't followed the ,english fashion of flavouring a curry by emptying the pepper-pot into the dish8 ,pepper properly used is the most admirable of condiments1 the ,colonel said4 ,why this association of the ,colonel and pepper8 said ,van der ,roet4 ,in this society we ought to be as nice in our phraseology as in our flavourings1 and be careful to eschew the incongruous4 ,you are coughing1 ,mrs4 ,wilding4 ,let me give you some water4 ,i think it must have been one of those rare grains of the ,colonel's pepper1 for you must have a little pepper in a curry1 mustn't you1 ,colonel8 ,though1 as ,miss ,macdonnell says1 ,english cooks generally overdo it4 ,vander is in one of his pleasant witty moods1 said the ,colonel1 but ,i fancy ,i know as much about the use of pepper as he does about the use of oil colours2 and now we have1 got upon art criticism1 ,i may remark1 my dear ,vander1 ,i have been reminded that you have been poaching on my ground4 ,i saw a landscape of yours the other day1 which looked as if some of my curry powder had got into the sunset4 ,i mean the one poor blind old ,wilkins bought at your last show4 ,ah1 but that sunset was an inspiration1 ,colonel1 and consequently beyond your comprehension4 ,it is easy to talk of inspiration1 said ,sir ,john1 and1 perhaps1 now that we are debating a matter of real importance1 we might spend our time more profitably than in discussing what is and what is not a good picture4 ,some inspiration has been brought into our symposium1 ,i venture to affirm that the brain which devised and the hand which executed the ,tenerumi di ,vitello we have just tasted1 were both of them inspired4 ,in the construction of this dish there is to be recognised a breath of the same afflatus which gave us the ,florentine campanile1 and the ,medici tombs1 and the portrait of ,monna ,lisa4 ,when we stand before any one of these masterpieces1 we realise at a glance how keen must have been the primal insight1 and how strenuous the effort necessary for the evolution of so consummate an achievement2 and1 with the savour of the ,tenerumi di ,vitello still fresh1 ,i feel that it deserves to be added to the list of ,italian capo lavori4 ,now1 as ,i was not fortunate enough to be included in the pupils' class this morning1 ,i must beg the next time the dish is presented to us--and ,i imagine all present will hail its renaissance with joy--that ,i may be allowed to lend a hand1 or even a finger1 in its preparation4 ,veal1 with the possible exception of ,lombard beef1 is the best meat we get in ,italy1 said the ,marchesa1 so an ,italian cook1 when he wants to produce a meat dish of the highest excellence1 generally turns to veal as a basis4 ,i must say that the breast of veal1 which is the part we had for lunch today1 is a somewhat insipid dish when cooked ,english fashion4 ,that we have been able to put it before you in more palatable form1 and to win for it the approval of such a connoisseur as ,sir ,john ,oglethorpe1 is largely owing to the judicious use of that ,italian terror--more dire to many ,english than paper-money or brigands--garlic4 ,the quantity used was infinitesimal1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 but it seems to have been enough to subdue what ,i once heard ,sir ,john describe as the pallid solidity of the innocent calf4 ,i fear the vein of incongruity in our discourse1 lately noted by ,van der ,roet1 is not quite exhausted1 said ,sir ,john4 ,the ,colonel was up in arms on account of a too intimate association of his name with pepper1 and now ,mrs4 ,sinclair has bracketed me with the calf1 a most useful animal1 ,i grant1 but scarcely one ,i should have chosen as a yokefellow2 but this is a digression4 ,to return to our veal4 ,i had a notion that garlic had something to do with the triumph of the ,tenerumi1 and1 this being the case1 ,i think it would be well if the ,marchesa were to give us a dissertation on the use of this invaluable product4 ,as ,mrs4 ,sinclair says1 the admixture of garlic in the dish in question was a very small one1 and ,english people somehow never seem to realise that garlic must always be used sparingly4 ,the chief positive idea they have of its characteristics is that which they gather from the odour of a ,french or ,italian crowd of peasants at a railway station4 ,the effect of garlic1 eaten in lumps as an accompaniment to bread and cheese1 is naturally awful1 but garlic used as it should be used is the soul1 the divine essence1 of cookery4 ,the palate delights in it without being able to identify it1 and the surest proof of its charm is manifested by the flatness and insipidity which will infallibly characterise any dish usually flavoured with it1 if by chance this dish should be prepared without it4 ,the cook who can employ it successfully will be found to possess the delicacy of perception1 the accuracy of judgment1 and the dexterity of hand1 which go to the formation of a great artist4 ,it is a primary maxim1 and one which cannot be repeated too often1 that garlic must never be cut up and used as part of the material of any dish4 ,one small incision should be made in the clove1 which should be put into the dish during the process of cooking1 and allowed to remain there until the cook's palate gives warning that flavour enough has been extracted4 ,then it must be taken out at once4 ,this rule does not apply in equal degree to the use of the onion1 the large mild varieties of which may be cooked and eaten in many excellent bourgeois dishes2 but in all fine cooking1 where the onion flavour is wanted1 the same treatment which ,i have prescribed for garlic must be followed4 ,the ,marchesa gave the ,colonel and ,lady ,considine a holiday that afternoon1 and requested ,mrs4 ,gradinger and ,van der ,roet to attend in the kitchen to help with the dinner4 ,in the first few days of the session the main portion of the work naturally fell upon the ,marchesa and ,angelina1 and in spite of the inroads made upon their time by the necessary directions to the neophytes1 and of the occasional eccentricities of the neophytes' energies1 the dinners and luncheons were all that could be desired4 ,the ,colonel was not quite satisfied with the flavour of one particular soup1 and ,mrs4 ,gradinger was of opinion that one of the entrees1 which she wanted to superintend herself1 but which the ,marchesa handed over to ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 had a great deal too much butter in its composition4 ,her conscience revolted at the action of consuming in one dish enough butter to solace the breakfast-table of an honest working man for two or three days2 but the faintness of these criticisms seemed to prove that every one was well satisfied with the rendering of the menu of the day4 ,menu--,lunch ,tenerumi di ,vitello4 ,breast of veal4 ,piccione alla minute4 ,pigeons1 braized with liver1 c4 ,curry ,menu--,dinner ,zuppa alla nazionale4 ,soup alla nazionale4 ,salmone alla ,genovese4 ,salmon alla ,genovese4 ,costolette alla ,costanza4 ,mutton cutlets alla ,costanza4 ,fritto misto alla ,villeroy4 ,lamb's fry alla ,villeroy4 ,lattughe al sugo4 ,stuffed ,lettuce4 ,dindo arrosto alla ,milanese4 ,roast turkey alla ,milanese4 ,crema montata alle fragole4 ,strawberry cream4 ,tartufi alla ,dino4 ,truffles alla ,dino4 ,the ,third ,day ,i observe1 dear ,marchesa1 said ,mrs4 ,fothergill at breakfast on ,thursday morning1 that we still follow the ,english fashion in our breakfast dishes4 ,i have a notion that1 in this particular especially1 we gross ,english show our inferiority to the more spirituelles nations of the ,continent1 and ,i always feel a new being after the light meal of delicious coffee and crisp bread and delicate butter the first morning ,i awake in dear ,paris4 ,i wonder how it happens1 then1 that two goes of fish1 a plateful of omelette1 and a round and a half of toast and marmalade are necessary to repair the waste of tissue in dear ,england8 ,van der ,roet whispered to ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,it must be the gross air of ,england or the gross nature of the-- ,the rest of ,miss ,macdonnell's remark was lost1 as the ,marchesa cried out in answer to ,mrs4 ,fothergill1 ,but why should we have anything but ,english breakfast dishes in ,england8 ,the defects of ,english cookery are manifest enough1 but breakfast fare is not amongst them4 ,in these ,england stands supreme2 there is nothing to compare with them1 and they possess the crowning merit of being entirely compatible with ,english life4 ,i cannot say whether it may be the effect of the crossing1 or of the climate on this side1 or that the air of ,england is charged with some subtle stimulating quality1 given off in the rush and strain of strenuous national life1 but the fact remains that as soon as ,i find myself across the ,channel ,i want an ,english breakfast4 ,it seems that ,i am more ,english than certain of the ,english themselves1 and ,i am sorry that ,mrs4 ,fothergill has been deprived of her ,french roll and butter4 ,i will see that you have it to-morrow1 ,mrs4 ,fothergill1 and to make the illusion complete1 ,i will order it to be sent to your room4 ,oh no1 ,marchesa1 that would be giving too much trouble1 and ,i am sure you want all the help in the house to carry out the service as exquisitely as you do1 said ,mrs4 ,fothergill hurriedly1 and blushing as well as her artistic complexion would allow4 ,i fancy1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 that foreigners are taking to ,english breakfasts as well as ,english clothes4 ,i noticed when ,i was last in ,milan that almost every ,german or ,italian ate his two boiled eggs for breakfast1 the sign whereby the ,englishman used to be marked for a certainty4 ,the ,german would probably call for boiled eggs when abroad on account of the impossibility of getting such things in his own country4 ,no matter how often you send to the kitchen for properly boiled eggs in ,germany1 the result is always the same cold slush1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding2 and ,i regret to find that the same plague is creeping into the ,english hotels which are served by ,german waiters4 ,that is quite true1 said the ,marchesa2 but in ,england we have no time to concern ourselves with mere boiled eggs1 delicious as they are4 ,the roll of delicacies is long enough1 or even too long without them4 ,when ,i am in ,england1 ,i always lament that we have only seven days a week and one breakfast a day1 and when ,i am in ,italy ,i declare that the reason why the ,english have overrun the world is because they eat such mighty breakfasts4 ,considering how good the dishes are1 ,i wonder the breakfasts are not mightier than they are4 ,it always strikes me that our national barrenness of ideas appears as plainly in our breakfasts as anywhere1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger4 ,there is a monotony about them which-- ,monotony6 interrupted the ,colonel4 ,why1 ,i could dish you up a fresh breakfast every day for a month4 ,your conservative tendencies must be very strong1 ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 if they lead you to this conclusion4 ,conservative6 ,on the contrary1 ,i--that is1 my husband--always votes for ,progressive candidates at every election1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 dropping into her platform intonation1 at the sound of which consternation arose in every breast4 ,i have1 moreover1 a theory that we might reform our diet radically1 as well as all other institutions2 but before ,i expound this1 ,i should like to say a few words on the waste of wholesome food which goes on4 ,for instance1 ,i went for a walk in the woods yesterday afternoon1 where ,i came upon a vast quantity of fungi which our ignorant middle classes would pronounce to be poisonous1 but which ,i--in common with every child of the intelligent working-man educated in a board school where botany is properly taught--knew to be good for food4 ,excuse me one moment1 said ,sir ,john1 but do they really use board-school children as tests to see whether toadstools are poisonous or not8 ,i do not think anything ,i said justified such an inference1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger in the same solemn drawl2 but ,i may remark that the children are taught from illustrated manuals accurately drawn and coloured4 ,well1 to come back to the fungi1 ,i took the trouble to measure the plot on which they were growing1 and found it just ten yards square4 ,the average weight of edible fungus per square yard was just an ounce1 or a hundred and twelve pounds per acre4 ,now1 there must be at least twenty millions of acres in the ,united ,kingdom capable of producing these fungi without causing the smallest damage to any other crop1 wherefore it seems that1 owing to our lack of instruction1 we are wasting some million tons of good food per annum2 and ,i may remark that this calculation pre-supposes1 that each fungus springs only once in the season2 but ,i have reason to believe that certain varieties would give five or six gatherings between ,may and ,october1 so the weight produced would be enormously greater than the quantity ,i have named4 ,here ,mrs4 ,gradinger paused to finish her coffee1 which was getting cold1 and before she could resume1 ,sir ,john had taken up the parole4 ,i think the smaller weight will suffice for the present1 until the taste for strange fungi has developed1 or the pressure of population increased4 ,and before stimulating a vastly increased supply1 it will be necessary to extirpate the belief that all fungi1 except the familiar mushroom1 are poisonous1 and perhaps to appoint an army of inspectors to see that only the right sort are brought to market4 ,yes1 and that will give pleasant and congenial employment to those youths of the working-classes who are ambitious of a higher career than that of their fathers1 said ,lady ,considine1 and the ratepayers will rejoice1 no doubt1 that they are participating in the general elevation of the masses4 ,perhaps ,mrs4 ,gradinger will gather a few of her less deadly fungi1 and cook them and eat them herself1 pour encourager les autres1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,then1 if she doesn't die in agonies1 we may all forswear beef and live on toadstools4 ,i certainly will1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger2 and before we rise from table ,i should like-- ,i fear we must hear your remarks at dinner1 ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 said the ,marchesa4 ,time is getting on1 and some of the dishes to-day are rather elaborate1 so now to the kitchen4 ,menu--,lunch4 ,risotto alla ,genovese4 ,savoury rice4 ,pollo alla ,villereccia4 ,chicken alla ,villereccia4 ,lingue di ,castrato alla cucinira4 ,sheeps' tongues alla cucinira4 ,menu--,dinner ,zuppa alla ,veneziana4 ,venetian soup4 ,sogliole alla giardiniera4 ,sole with ,vegetables4 ,timballo alla ,romana4 ,roman pie4 ,petto di ,castrato alla salsa di burro4 ,breast of mutton with butter sauce4 ,verdure miste4 ,mixed vegetables4 ,crema rappresa4 ,coffee cream4 ,ostriche alla ,veneziana4 ,oyster savoury4 ,the ,fourth ,day ,,the ,colonel was certainly the most severely critical member of the company4 ,up to the present juncture he had been sparing of censure1 and sparing of praise likewise1 but on this day1 after lunch1 he broke forth into loud praise of the dish of beef which appeared in the menu4 ,after specially commending this dish he went on-- ,it seems to me that the dinner of yesterday and to-day's lunch bear the cachet of a fresh and admirable school of cookery4 ,in saying this ,i don't wish to disparage the traditions which have governed the preparation of the delicious dishes put before us up to that date1 which ,i have referred to as the parting of the ways1 the date when the palate of the expert might detect a new hand upon the keys1 a phrase once employed1 ,i believe1 with regard to some man who wrote poetry4 ,to meet an old friend1 or a thoroughly tested dish1 is always pleasant1 but old friends die or fall out1 and old favourite dishes may come to pall at last2 and for this reason ,i hold that the day which brings us a new friend or a new dish ought to be marked with white chalk4 ,and ,i think some wise man once remarked1 said ,sir ,john1 that the discovery of a dish is vastly more important than the discovery of a star1 for we have already as many stars as we can possibly require1 but we can never have too many dishes4 ,i was wondering whether any one would detect the variations ,i made yesterday1 but ,i need not have wondered1 with such an expert at table as ,colonel ,trestrail1 said the ,marchesa with a laugh4 ,well1 the ,colonel has found me out2 but from the tone of his remarks ,i think ,i may hope for his approval4 ,at any rate1 ,i'm sure he won't move a vote of censure4 ,if he does1 we'll pack him off to town1 and sentence him to dine at his club every day for a month1 said ,lady ,considine4 ,what crime has this particular club committed8 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair in a whisper4 ,vote of censure6 ,certainly not1 said the ,colonel1 with an angry ring in his voice4 ,mrs4 ,sinclair did not love him1 and had calculated accurately the carrying power of her whisper4 ,that would be the basest ingratitude4 ,i must1 however1 plead guilty to an attack of curiosity1 and therefore ,i beg you1 ,marchesa1 to let us into the secret of your latest inspiration4 ,its origin was commonplace enough1 said the ,marchesa1 but in a way interesting4 ,once upon a time--more years ago than ,i care to remember--,i was strolling about the ,piazza ,navona in ,rome1 and amusing myself by going from one barrow to another1 and turning over the heaps of rubbish with which they were stocked4 ,all the while ,i was innocently plagiarising that fateful walk of ,browning's round the ,riccardi ,palace in ,florence1 the day when he bought for a lira the ,romana homocidiorum4 ,the world knows what was the outcome of ,browning's purchase1 but it will probably never fathom the full effect of mine4 ,how do his lines run8 ,these ,i picked the book from4 ,five compeers in flank ,stood left and right of it as tempting more-- ,a dog's-eared ,spicilegium1 the fond tale ,o' the frail one of the ,flower1 by young ,dumas1 ,vulgarised ,horace for the use of schools1 ,the ,life1 ,death1 ,miracles of ,saint ,somebody1 ,saint ,somebody ,else1 his ,miracles1 ,death and ,life4 ,well1 the choice which lay before me on one particular barrow was fully as wide1 or perhaps wider than that which met the poet's eye1 but after ,i had espied a little yellow paper-covered book with the title ,la ,cucina ,partenopea1 overo il ,paradiso dei gastronomi1 ,i looked no farther4 ,what infinite possibilities of pleasure might lie hidden under such a name4 ,i secured it1 together with the ,story of ,barlaam and ,josaphat1 for thirty-five centesimi1 and handed over the coins to the hungry-eyed old man in charge1 who regretted1 ,i am sure1 when he saw the eager look upon my face1 that he had not marked the books a lira at least4 ,i should now be a rich woman if ,i had spent all the money ,i have spent as profitably as those seven sold4 ,besides being a master in the art of cookery1 the author was a moral philosopher as well2 and he addresses his reader in prefatory words which bespeak a profound knowledge of life4 ,he writes3 ',though the time of man here on earth is passed in a never-ending turmoil1 which must make him often curse the moment when he opened his eyes on such a world2 though life itself must often become irksome or even intolerable1 nevertheless1 by ,god's blessing1 one supreme consolation remains for this wretched body of ours4 ,i allude to that moment when1 the forces being spent and the stomach craving support1 the wearied mortal sits down to face a good dinner4 ,here is to be found an effectual balm for the ills of life3 something to drown all remembrance of our ill-humours1 the worries of business1 or even family quarrels4 ,in sooth1 it is only at table that a man may bid the devil fly away with ,solomon and all his wisdom1 and give himself up to an earthly delight1 which is a pleasure and a profit at the same time4' ,the circumstances under which this precious book was found seem to suggest a culinary poem on the model of the ',ring and the ,book1' said ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 or we might deal with the story in practical shape by letting every one of us prepare the same dish4 ,i fancy the individual renderings of the same recipe would vary quite as widely as the versions of the unsavoury story set forth in ,mr4 ,browning's little poem4 ,i think we had better have a supplementary day for a trial of the sort ,mrs4 ,sinclair suggests1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,i speak with the memory of a preparation of liver ,i tasted yesterday in the kitchen--one of the dishes which did not appear at dinner4 ,that is rather hard on the ,colonel1 said ,van der ,roet2 he did his best1 and now1 see how hard he is trying to look as if he didn't know what you are alluding to6 ,i never in all my life-- the ,colonel began2 but the ,marchesa1 fearing a storm1 interfered4 ,i have a lot more to tell you about my little ,neapolitan book1 she went on1 and ,i will begin by saying that1 for the future1 we cannot do better than make free use of it4 ,the author opens with an announcement that he means to give exact quantities for every dish1 and then1 like a true ,neapolitan1 lets quantities go entirely1 and adopts the rule-of-thumb system4 ,and ,i must say ,i always find the question of quantities a difficult one4 ,some books give exact measures1 each dish being reckoned enough for four persons1 with instructions to increase the measures in proportion to the additional number of diners but here a rigid rule is impossible1 for a dish which is to serve by itself1 as a supper or a lunch1 must necessarily be bigger than one which merely fills one place in a dinner menu4 ,quantities can be given approximately in many cases1 but flavouring must always be a question of individual taste4 ,latitude must be allowed1 for all cooks who can turn out distinguished work will be found to be endowed with imagination1 and these1 being artists1 will never consent to follow a rigid rule of quantity4 ,to put it briefly1 cooks who need to be told everything1 will never cook properly1 even if they be told more than everything4 ,and after all1 no one takes seriously the quantities given by the chef of a millionaire or a prince2 witness the cook of the ,prince de ,soubise1 who demanded fifty hams for the sauces and garnitures of a single supper1 and when the ,prince protested that there could not possibly be found space for them all on the table1 offered to put them all into a glass bottle no bigger than his thumb4 ,some of ,francatelli's quantities are also prodigious1 as1 for instance1 when to make a simple glaze he calls for three pounds of gravy beef1 the best part of a ham1 a knuckle of veal1 an old hen1 and two partridges4 ,menu--,lunch ,maccheroni al sugillo4 ,macaroni with sausage and tomatoes4 ,manzo in insalata4 ,beef1 pressed and marinated4 ,lingue di vitello all',italiana4 ,calves' tongues4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa alla ,modanese4 ,modenese soup4 ,merluzzo in salamoia4 ,cod with sauce piquante4 ,pollastro in istufa di pomidoro4 ,stewed chicken with tomatoes4 ,porcelletto farcito alla ,corradino4 ,stuffed suckling pig4 ,insalata alla ,navarino4 ,navarino salad4 ,bodino di semolino4 ,semolina pudding4 ,frittura di cocozze4 ,fried cucumber4 ,the ,fifth ,day ,the following day was very warm1 and some half-dozen of the party wandered into the garden after lunch and took their coffee under a big chestnut tree on the lawn4 ,and this is the #afth of ,june1 said ,lady ,considine4 ,last year1 on this very day1 ,i started for ,hombourg4 ,i can't say ,i feel like starting for ,hombourg1 or any other place1 just at present4 ,but why should any one of us want to go to ,hombourg8 said ,sir ,john4 ,nobody can be afraid of gout with the admirable diet we enjoy here4 ,i beg you to speak for yourself1 ,sir ,john1 said ,lady ,considine4 ,i have never yet gone to ,hombourg on account of gout4 ,of course not1 my dear friend1 of course not2 there are so many reasons for going to ,hombourg4 ,there's the early rising1 and the band1 and the new people one may meet there1 and the change of diet--especially the change of diet4 ,but1 you see1 we have found our change of diet within an hour of ,london1 so why--as ,i before remarked--should we want to rush off to ,hombourg8 ,i am a firm believer in that change of diet1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding1 though in the most respectable circles the true-bred ,briton still talks about foreign messes1 and affirms that anything else than plain ,british fare ruins the digestion4 ,i must say my own digestion is none the worse for the holiday ,i am having from the preparations of my own 'treasure4' ,i think we all look remarkably well2 and we don't quarrel or snap at each other1 and it would be hard to find a better proof of wholesome diet than that4 ,but ,i fancied ,mrs4 ,gradinger looked a little out of sorts this morning1 and ,i'm sure she was more than a little out of temper when ,i asked her how soon we were to taste her dish of toadstools1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,i expect she had been making a trial of the ,british fungi in her bedroom1 said ,van der ,roet2 and then1 you see1 our conversation isn't quite 'high toned' enough for her taste4 ,we aren't sufficiently awake to the claims of the masses4 ,can any one explain to me why the people who are so full of mercy for the mass1 are so merciless to the unit8 ,that is her system of proselytising1 said the ,colonel1 and if she is content with outward conversion1 it isn't a bad one4 ,i often feel inclined to agree to any proposition she likes to put forward1 and ,i would1 if ,i could stop her talking by my submission4 ,you wouldn't do that1 ,colonel1 even in your suavest mood1 said ,van der ,roet2 but ,i hope somebody will succeed in checking her flow of discourse before long4 ,i'm getting worn to a shadow by the grind of that awful voice4 ,i thought your clothes were getting a bit loose1 said the ,colonel1 but ,i put that phenomenon down to another reason4 ,in spite of ,mrs4 ,wilding's praise of our present style of cooking1 ,i don't believe our friend ,vander finds it substantial enough to sustain his manly bulk1 and ,i'll tell you the grounds of my belief4 ,a few mornings ago1 when ,i was shaving1 ,i saw the butcher bring into the house a splendid sirloin1 and as no sirloin has appeared at table1 ,i venture to infer that this joint was a private affair of ,vander's1 and that he1 as well as ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 has been going in for bedroom cookery4 ,here comes the ,marchesa2 we'll ask her to solve the mystery4 ,i can account for the missing sirloin1 said the ,marchesa4 ,the ,colonel is wrong for once4 ,it went duly into the kitchen1 and not to ,mr4 ,van der ,roet's bedroom2 but ,i must begin with a slight explanation1 or rather apology4 ,next to trial by jury1 and the reverence paid to rank1 and the horror of all things which1 as poor ,corney ,grain used to say1 'are not nice1' ,i reckon the ,sunday sirloin1 cooked and served1 one and indivisible as the typical fetish of the great ,english middle class4 ,with this fact before my eyes1 ,i can assure you ,i did not lightly lay a hand on its integrity4 ,my friends1 you have eaten that sirloin without knowing it4 ,you may remember that yesterday after lunch the ,colonel was loud in praise of a dish of beef4 ,well1 that beef was a portion of the same1 and not the best portion4 ,the ,manzo in insalata1 which pleased the ,colonel's palate1 was that thin piece at the lower end1 the chief function of which1 when the sirloin is cooked whole1 seems to lie in keeping the joint steady on the dish while paterfamilias carves it4 ,it is never eaten in the dining-room hot1 because every one justly prefers and goes for the under cut2 neither does it find favour at lunch next day1 for the reason that1 as cold beef1 the upper cut is unapproachable4 ,i have never heard that the kitchen hankers after it inordinately2 indeed1 its ultimate destination is one of the unexplained mysteries of housekeeping4 ,i hold that never1 under any circumstances1 should it be cooked with the sirloin1 but always cut off and marinated and braized as we had it yesterday4 ,thus you get two hot dishes2 our particular sirloin has given us three4 ,the parts of this joint vary greatly in flavour1 and in texture as well1 and by accentuating this variation by treatment in the kitchen1 you escape that monotony which is prone to pervade the table so long as the sirloin remains in the house4 ,mrs4 ,sinclair is sufficiently experienced as a housekeeper to know that the dish of fillets we had for dinner last night was not made from the under cut of one sirloin4 ,it was by borrowing a little from the upper part that ,i managed to fill the dish1 and ,i'm sure that any one who may have got one of the uppercut fillets had no cause to grumble4 ,the ,filetto di ,bue which we had for lunch to-day was the residue of the upper cut1 and1 admirable as is a slice of cold beef taken from this part of the joint1 ,i think it is an excellent variation to make a hot dish of it sometimes4 ,on the score of economy1 ,i am sure that a sirloin treated in this fashion goes a long way further4 ,the ,marchesa demolishes one after another of our venerable institutions with so charming a despatch that we can scarcely grieve for them1 said ,sir ,john4 ,i am not philosopher enough to divine what change may come over the ,british character when every man sits down every day to a perfectly cooked dinner4 ,it is sometimes said that our barbarian forefathers left their northern solitudes because they hankered after the wine and delicate meats of the south1 and perhaps the modern ,briton may have been led to overrun the world by the hope of finding a greater variety of diet than he gets at home4 ,it may mean1 ,marchesa1 that this movement of yours for the suppression of ,english plain cooking will mark the close of our national expansion4 ,my dear ,sir ,john1 you may rest assured that your national expansion1 as well as your national cookery1 will continue in spite of anything we may accomplish here1 and ,i say good luck to them both4 ,when have ,i ever denied the merits of ,english cookery8 said the ,marchesa4 ,many of its dishes are unsurpassed4 ,these islands produce materials so fine1 that no art or elaboration can improve them4 ,they are best when they are cooked quite plainly1 and this is the reason why simplicity is the key-note of ,english cookery4 ,a fine joint of mutton roasted to a turn1 a plain fried sole with anchovy butter a broiled chop or steak or kidney1 fowls or game cooked ,english fashion1 potatoes baked in their skins and eaten with butter and salt1 a rasher of ,wiltshire bacon and a new-laid egg1 where will you beat these8 ,i will go so far as to say no country can produce a bourgeoises dish which can be compared with steak and kidney pudding4 ,but the point ,i want to press home is that ,italian cookery comes to the aid of those who cannot well afford to buy those prime qualities of meat and fish which allow of this perfectly plain treatment4 ,it is1 as ,i have already said1 the cookery of a nation short of cash and unblessed with such excellent meat and fish and vegetables as you lucky islanders enjoy4 ,but it is rich in clever devices of flavouring1 and in combinations1 and ,i am sure that by its help ,english people of moderate means may fare better and spend less than they spend now1 if only they will take a little trouble4 ,menu--,lunch ,gnocchi alla ,romana4 ,semolina with parmesan4 ,filetto di ,bue al pistacchi4 ,fillet of beef with pistachios ,bodini marinati4 ,marinated rissoles4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa ,crotopo4 ,croute au pot soup4 ,sogliole alla ,veneziana4 ,fillets of sole4 ,ateletti alla ,sarda4 ,atelets of ox-palates1 c4 ,costolette di ,montone alla ,nizzarda4 ,mutton cutlets4 ,pollo alla ,fiorentina4 ,fowl with macaroni4 ,crema tartara alla ,caramella4 ,caramel cream4 ,uova rimescolati al tartufi4 ,eggs with truffles4 ,the ,sixth ,day ,the following morning1 at breakfast1 a servant announced that ,sir ,john ,oglethorpe was taking his breakfast in his room1 and that there was no need to keep anything in reserve for him4 ,it was stated1 however1 that ,sir ,john was in no way indisposed1 and that he would join the party at lunch4 ,he seated himself in his usual place1 placid and fresh as ever2 but1 unharmed as he was physically1 it was evident to all the company that he was suffering from some mental discomposure4 ,miss ,macdonnell1 with a frank curiosity which might have been trying in any one else1 asked him point-blank the reason of his absence from the meal for which1 in spite of his partiality for ,french cookery1 he had a true ,englishman's devotion4 ,i feel ,i owe the company some apology for my apparent churlishness1 he said2 but the fact is1 that ,i have received some very harrowing1 but at the same time very interesting1 news this morning4 ,i think ,i told you the other day how the vacancy in my kitchen has led up to a very real tragedy1 and that the abhorred ,fury was already hovering terribly near the head of poor ,narcisse4 ,well1 ,i have just received from a friend in ,paris journals containing a full account of the trial of ,narcisse and of his fair accomplice4 ,the worst has come to pass1 and ,narcisse has been doomed to sneeze into the basket like a mere aristocrat or politician during the ,terror ,i was greatly upset by this news1 but ,i was interested1 and in a measure consoled1 to find an enclosure amongst the other papers1 an envelope addressed to me in the handwriting of the condemned man4 ,this voix d'outre tombe1 ,i rejoice to say1 confides to me the secret of that incomparable sauce of his1 a secret which ,i feared might be buried with ,narcisse in the prison ditch4 ,the ,marchesa sighed as she listened4 ,the recipe of the sauce was safe indeed1 but she knew by experience how wide might be the gulf between the actual work of an artist and the product of another hand guided by his counsels1 let the hand be ever so dexterous1 and the counsels ever so clear4 ,will it be too much1 she said1 to ask you to give us the details of this painful tragedy8 ,it will not1 ,sir ,john replied reflectively4 ,the last words of many a so-called genius have been enshrined in literature3 probably no one will ever know the parting objurgation of ,narcisse4 ,i will endeavour1 however1 to give you some notion as to what occurred1 from the budget ,i have just read4 ,i fear the tragedy was a squalid one4 ,madame1 the victim1 was elderly1 unattractive in person1 exacting in temper1 and the owner of considerable wealth--at least1 this is what came out at the trial4 ,it was one of those tangles in which a fatal denouement is inevitable2 and1 if this had not come through ,mademoiselle ,sidonie1 it would have come through somebody else4 ,the lovers plotted to remove madame by first drugging her1 then breaking her skull with the wood chopper1 and then pitching her downstairs so as to produce the impression that she had met her death in this fashion4 ,but either the arm of ,mademoiselle ,sidonie--who was told off to do the hammering--was unskilled in such work1 or the opiate was too weak1 for the victim began to shriek before she gave up the ghost4 ,detection seemed imminent1 so ,narcisse1 in whom the quality of discretion was evidently predominant1 bolted at once and got out of the country4 ,but the facts were absolutely clear4 ,the victim lived long enough to depose that ,mademoiselle ,sidonie attacked her with the wood chopper1 while ,narcisse watched the door4 ,the advocate of ,narcisse did his work like a man4 ,he shed the regulation measure of tears2 he drew graphic pictures of the innocent youth of ,narcisse1 of his rise to eminence1 and of his filial piety as evidenced by the frequent despatch of money and comestibles to his venerable mother1 who was still living near ,bourges4 ,once a year1 too1 this incomparable artist found time to renew his youth by a sojourn in the simple cottage which saw his birth1 and by embracing the giver of his life4 ,was it possible that a man who treated one woman with such devotion and reverence could take the life of another8 ,he adduced various and picturesque reasons to show that such an event must be impossible1 but the jury took the opposite view4 ,some one had to be guillotined1 and the intelligent jury decided that ,paris could spare ,narcisse better than it could spare ,mademoiselle ,sidonie4 ,i fear the fact that he had deigned to sell his services to a brutal islander may have helped them to come to this conclusion1 but there were other and more weighty reasons4 ,of the supreme excellence of ,narcisse as an artist the jury knew nothing1 so they let him go hang--or worse--but of ,mademoiselle ,sidonie they knew a good deal1 and their knowledge1 ,i believe1 is shared by certain ,english visitors to ,paris4 ,she is one of the attractions of the ,fantasies d',arcadie1 and her latest song1 ,bonjour ,coco1 is sung and whistled in every capital of ,europe2 so the jury1 thrusting aside as mere pedantry the evidence of facts1 set to work to find some verdict which would not eclipse the gaiety of ,la ,ville ,lumiere by cutting short the career of ,mademoiselle ,sidonie4 ,the art of the chef appealed to only a few1 and he dies a mute1 but by no means inglorious martyr3 the art of the chanteuse appeals to the million1 the voice of the many carries the day1 and ,narcisse must die4 ,it is a revolting story1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 and one possible only in a corrupted and corrupting society4 ,it is wonderful1 as ,sir ,john remarks1 how the conquering streams of tendency manifest themselves even in an affair like this4 ,ours is a democratic age1 and the wants and desires of the many1 who find delight in this woman's singing1 override the whims of the pampered few1 the employers of such costly luxuries as men cooks4 ,you see you are a mere worm1 ,sir ,john1 laughed ,miss ,macdonnell1 and you had better lay out your length to be trampled on4 ,yes1 ,i have long foreseen our fate1 we who happen to possess what our poor brother hankers after4 ,well1 perhaps ,i may take up the worm's role at once and 'turn'1 that is1 burn the recipe of ,narcisse4 ,o ,sir ,john1 ,sir ,john1 cried ,mrs4 ,sinclair any such burning would remind me irresistibly of ,mr4 ,mantalini's attempts at suicide4 ,there would be an accurate copy in your pocket-book1 and besides this you would probably have learnt off the recipe by heart4 ,yes1 we know our ,sir ,john better than that1 don't we8 said the ,marchesa2 but1 joking apart1 ,sir ,john1 you might let me have the recipe at once4 ,it would go admirably with one of our lunch dishes for to-morrow4 ,but on the subject of the sauce1 ,sir ,john--like the younger ,mr4 ,smallweed on the subject of gravy--was adamant4 ,the wound caused by the loss of ,narcisse was1 he declared1 yet too recent3 the very odour of the sauce would provoke a thousand agonising regrets4 ,and then the hideous injustice of it all3 ,narcisse the artist1 comparatively innocent 7for to artists a certain latitude must be allowed71 to moulder in quicklime1 and this greedy1 sordid murderess to go on ogling and posturing with superadded popularity before an idiot crowd unable to distinguish a ,remoulade from a ,ravigotte6 ,no1 my dear ,marchesa1 he said1 the secret of ,narcisse must be kept a little longer1 for1 to tell the truth1 ,i have an idea4 ,i remember that ere this fortunes have been made out of sauces1 and if this sauce be properly handled and put before the public1 it may counteract my falling1 or rather disappearing rents4 ,if only ,i could hit upon a fetching name1 and find twenty thousand pounds to spend in advertising1 ,i might be able once more to live on my acres4 ,oh1 surely we shall be able to find you a name between us1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding2 money1 and things of that sort are to be procured in the city1 ,i believe2 and ,i daresay ,mr4 ,van der ,roet will design a pretty label for the sauce bottles4 ,menu--,lunch4 ,pollo all'olive4 ,fowl with olives4 ,scaloppine di rive4 ,veal cutlets with rice4 ,sedani alla parmigiana4 ,stewed celery4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa primaverile4 ,spring soup ,sote di ,salmone al funghi4 ,salmon with mushrooms4 ,tenerumi d',agnello alla veneziana4 ,breast of lamb alla ,veneziana4 ,testa di ,vitello alla sorrentina4 ,calf's head alla ,sorrentina4 ,fagiano alla perigo4 ,pheasant with truffles4 ,torta alla cremonese4 ,cremona tart4 ,uova alla fiorentina4 ,egg savoury4 ,the ,seventh ,day ,it seems invidious to give special praise where everything is so good1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair next day at lunch1 but ,i must say a word about that clear soup we had at dinner last night4 ,i have never ceased to regret that my regard for manners forbade me ask for a second helping4 ,see what it is to have no manners1 said ,van der ,roet4 ,i plunged boldly for another portion of that admirable preparation of calf's head at dinner4 ,if ,i hadn't1 ,i should have regretted it for ever after4 ,now1 ,i'm sure you are just as curious about the construction of these masterpieces as ,i am1 ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 so we'll beg the ,marchesa to let us into the secret4 ,mrs4 ,sinclair herself had a hand in the calf's-head dish1 ',testa di ,vitello alla sorrentina1' so perhaps ,i may hand over that part of the question to her4 ,i am very proud that one of my pupils should have won praise from such a distinguished expert as ,mr4 ,van der ,roet1 and ,i leave her to expound the mystery of its charm4 ,i think ,i may without presumption claim the clear soup as a triumph1 and it is a discovery of my own4 ,the same calf's head which ,mrs4 ,sinclair has treated with such consummate skill1 served also as the foundation for the stock of the clear soup4 ,this stock certainly derived its distinction from the addition of the liquor in which the head was boiled4 ,a good consomme can no doubt be made with stock-meat alone1 but the best soup thus made will be inferior to that we had for dinner last night4 ,without the calf's head you will never get such softness1 combined with full roundness on the tongue1 and the great merit of calf's head is that it lets you attain this excellence without any sacrifice of transparency4 ,i have marvelled often at the clearness of your soups1 ,marchesa1 said the ,colonel4 ,what clearing do you use to make them look like pale sherry8 ,no one has any claim to be called a cook who cannot make soup without artificial clearing1 said the ,marchesa4 ,like the poet1 the consomme is born1 not made4 ,it must be clear from the beginning1 an achievement which needs care and trouble like every other artistic effort1 but one nevertheless well within the reach of any student who means to succeed4 ,to clear a soup by the ordinary medium of white of egg or minced beef is to destroy all flavour and individuality4 ,if the stock be kept from boiling until it has been strained1 it will develop into a perfectly clear soup under the hands of a careful and intelligent cook4 ,the fleeting delicate aroma which1 as every gourmet will admit1 gives such grateful aid to the palate1 is the breath of garden herbs and of herbs alone1 and here ,i have a charge to bring against contemporary cookery4 ,i mean the neglect of natural in favour of manufactured flavourings4 ,with regard to herbs1 this could not always have been the rule1 for ,i never go into an old ,english garden without finding there a border with all the good old-fashioned pot herbs growing lustily4 ,i do not say that the use of herbs is unknown1 for of course the best cookery is impossible without them1 but ,i fear that sage mixed with onion is about the only one which ever tickles the palate of the great ,english middle-class4 ,and simultaneously with the use of herb flavouring in soup has arisen the practice of adding wine1 which to me seems a very questionable one4 ,if wine is put in soup at all1 it must be used so sparingly as to render its presence imperceptible4 ,why then use it at all8 ,in some sauces wine is necessary1 but in all cases it is as difficult to regulate as garlic1 and requires the utmost vigilance on the part of the cook4 ,my last cook1 who was very stout and a little middle-aged1 would always use flavouring sauces from the grocer's rather than walk up to the garden1 where we have a most seductive herb bed1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding2 and then1 again1 the love of the ,english for pungent-made sauces is another reason for this makeshift practice4 ',oh1 a table-spoonful of somebody's sauce will do for the flavouring1' and in goes the sauce1 and the flavouring is supposed to be complete4 ,people who eat their chops1 and steaks1 and fish1 and game1 after having smothered the natural flavour with the same harsh condiment1 may be satisfied with a cuisine of this sort1 but to an unvitiated palate the result is nauseous4 ,yet as a ,churchwoman1 ,mrs4 ,wilding1 you ought to speak with respect of ,english sauces4 ,i think ,i have heard how a libation of one of them1 which was poured over a certain cathedral1 has made it look as good as new1 said ,miss ,macdonnell1 and we have lately learned that one of the most distinguished of our party is ambitious to enter the same career4 ,i would suggest that ,sir ,john should devote all that money he proposes to make by the aid of his familiar spirit--the ghost of ,narcisse--to the building of a temple in honour of the tenth muse1 the muse of cookery1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair2 and what do you think1 ,sir ,john1 of a name ,i dreamt of last night for your sauce1 ',the ,new ,century ,sauce'8 ,how will that do8 ,admirably1 said ,sir ,john after a moment's pause2 admirably enough to allow me to offer you a royalty on every bottle sold4 ',the ,new ,century ,sauce'1 that's the name for me2 and now to set to work to build the factory1 and to order plans for the temple of the tenth muse4 ,menu--,lunch4 ,maccheroni al pomidoro4 ,macaroni with tomatoes1 ,vitello alla pellegrina4 ,veal cutlets alla pellegrina4 ,animelle al sapor di targone4 ,sweetbread with tarragon sauce4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa alla ,canavese4 ,soup alla ,canavese ,naselli con piselli4 ,whiting with peas4 ,coscia di manzo al forno4 ,braized ribs of beef4 ,lingua alla ,visconti4 ,tongue with grapes4 ,anitra selvatica4 ,wild duck4 ,zabajone ghiacciato4 ,iced syllabub4 ,crostatini alla capucina4 ,savoury of rice1 truffles1 c4 ,the ,eighth ,day ,we are getting unpleasantly near the end of our time1 said the ,colonel1 but ,i am sure not one of us has learnt one tithe of what the ,marchesa has to teach4 ,my dear ,colonel ,trestrail1 said the ,marchesa1 an education in cookery does not mean the teaching of a certain number of recipes4 ,education1 ,i maintain1 is something far higher than the mere imparting of facts2 my notion of it is the teaching of people to teach themselves1 and this is what ,i have tried to do in the kitchen4 ,with some of you ,i am sure ,i have succeeded1 and a book containing the recipe of every dish we have tried will be given to every pupil when we break up4 ,i think the most valuable lesson ,i have learnt is that cookery is a matter for serious study1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair4 ,the popular ,english view seems to be that it is one of those things which gets itself done4 ,the food is subjected to the action of heat1 a little butter1 or pepper1 or onion1 being added by way of flavouring1 and the process is complete4 ,to put it bluntly1 it requires at least as much mental application to roast a fowl as to cut a bodice2 but it does not strike the average ,englishwoman in this way1 for she will spend hours in thinking and talking about dressmaking 7which is generally as ill done as her cooking71 while she will be reluctant to give ten minutes to the consideration as to how a luncheon or supper dish shall be prepared4 ,the ,english middle classes are most culpably negligent about the food they eat1 and as a consequence they get exactly the sort of cooks they deserve to get4 ,i do not blame the cooks2 if they can get paid for cooking ill1 why should they trouble to learn to cook well8 ,i agree entirely1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding4 ,that saying1 ',what ,i like is good plain roast and boiled1 and none of your foreign kickshaws1' is1 as every one knows1 the stock utterance of ,john ,bull on the stage or in the novel2 and1 though ,john ,bull is not in the least like his fictitious presentment1 this form of words is largely responsible for the waste and want of variety in the ,english kitchen4 ,the plain roast and boiled means a joint every day1 and this arrangement the good plain cook finds an admirable one for several reasons3 it means little trouble1 and it means also lots of scraps and bones and waste pieces4 ,the good plain cook brings all the forces of obstruction to bear whenever the mistress suggests made dishes2 and1 should this suggestion ever be carried out1 she takes care that the achievement shall be of a character not likely to invite repetition4 ,not long ago a friend of mine was questioning a cook as to soups1 whereupon the cook answered that she had never been required to make such things where she had lived2 all soups were bought in tins or bottles1 and had simply to be warmed up4 ,cakes1 too1 were outside her repertoire1 having always been 'had in' from the confectioner's1 while 'entrys' were in her opinion1 and in the opinion of her various mistresses1 'un'ealthy' and not worth making4 ,my experience is that1 if a mistress takes an interest in cooking1 she will generally have a fairly efficient cook1 said ,mrs4 ,fothergill4 ,i agree with ,mrs4 ,sinclair that our ,english cooks are spoilt by neglect2 and ,i think it is hard upon them1 as a class1 that so many inefficient women should be able to pose as cooks while they are unable to boil a potato properly4 ,and the so-called schools of cookery are quite useless in what they teach1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,i once sent a cook of mine to one to learn how to make a clear soup1 and when she came back1 she sent up1 as an evidence of her progress1 a potato pie coloured pink and green1 a most poisonous-looking dish--and her clear soups were as bad as ever4 ,said the ,colonel1 ,i will beg leave to enter a protest against the imperfections of that repast which is supposed to be the peculiar delight of the ladies1 ,i allude to afternoon tea4 ,i want to know why it is that unless ,i happen to call just when the tea is brought up--,i grant1 ,i know of a few houses which are honourable exceptions--,i am fated to drink that most abominable of all decoctions1 stewed lukewarm tea4 ',will you have some tea8 ,i'm afraid it isn't quite fresh1' the hostess will remark without a blush4 ,what would she think if her husband at dinner were to say1 ',colonel1 take a glass of that champagne4 ,it was opened the day before yesterday1 and ,i daresay the fizz has gone off a little'8 ,tea is cheap enough1 and yet the hostess seldom or never thinks of ordering up a fresh pot4 ,i believe it is because she is afraid of the butler4 ,i sympathise with you fully1 ,colonel1 said ,lady ,considine1 and my withers are unwrung4 ,you do not often honour me with your presence on ,tuesdays1 but ,i am sure ,i may claim to be one of your honourable exceptions4 ,indeed you may1 said the ,colonel4 ,perhaps men ought not to intrude on these occasions2 but ,i have a preference for taking tea in a pretty drawing-room1 with a lot of agreeable women1 rather than in a club surrounded by old chaps growling over the latest job at the ,war ,office1 and a younger brigade chattering about the latest tape prices1 and the weights for the spring handicaps4 ,all these little imperfections go to prove that we are not a nation of cooks1 said ,van der ,roet4 ,we can't be everything4 ,heine once said that the ,romans would never have found time to conquer the world if they had been obliged to learn the ,latin grammar2 and it is the same with us4 ,we can't expect to found an empire all over the planet1 and cook as well as the ,french1 who--perhaps wisely--never willingly emerge from the four corners of their own land4 ,there is energy enough left in us when we set about some purely utilitarian task1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding1 but we never throw ourselves into the arts with the enthusiasm of the ,latin races4 ,i was reading the other day of a ,french costumier who rushed to inform a lady1 who had ordered a turban1 of his success1 exclaiming1 ',madame1 apres trots nun's d'insomnie les plumes vent placees4' ,and every one knows the story of ,vatel's suicide because the fish failed to arrive4 ,no ,englishman would be capable of flights like these4 ,really1 this indictment of ,english cookery makes me a little nervous1 said ,lady ,considine ,i have promised to join in a driving tour through the southern counties4 ,i shudder to think of the dinners ,i shall have to eat at the commercial hotels and posting-houses on our route4 ,english country inns are not what they ought to be1 but now and then you come across one which is very good indeed1 as good1 if not better1 than anything you could find in any other country2 but ,i fear ,i must admit that1 charges considered1 the balance is against us1 said ,sir ,john4 ,when you start you ought to secure ,sir ,john's services as courier1 ,lady ,considine1 said the ,marchesa4 ,i once had the pleasure of driving for a week through the ,apennines in a party under his guidance1 and ,i can assure you we found him quite honest and obliging4 ,ah1 ,marchesa1 ,i was thinking of that happy time this very morning1 said ,sir ,john4 ,of ,arezzo1 where we were kept for three days by rain1 which ,i believe is falling there still4 ,of ,cortona1 with that wonderful little restaurant on the edge of the cliff1 whence you see ,thrasumene lying like a silver mirror in the plain below4 ,of ,perugia1 the august1 of ,gubbio1 ,citta di ,castello1 ,borgo ,san ,sepolcro1 ,urbino1 and divers others4 ,if you go for a drive in ,italy1 you still may meet with humours of the road such as travellers of old were wont to enjoy4 ,i well remember on the road between ,perugia and ,gubbio we began to realise we were indeed traversing mountain paths4 ,on a sudden the driver got down1 waved his arms1 and howled to some peasants working in a field below4 ,these1 on their part1 responded with more arm-waving and howling1 directed apparently towards a village farther up the hill1 whereupon we were assailed with visions of brigands1 and amputated ears1 and ransom4 ,but at a turn of the road we came upon two magnificent white oxen1 which1 being harnessed on in front1 drew us1 and our carriages and horses as well1 up five miles of steep incline4 ,these beautiful fellows1 it seemed1 were what the driver was signalling for1 and not for brigands4 ,again1 every inn we stayed at supplied us with some representative touch of local life and habit4 ,here the whole personnel of the inn1 reinforced by a goodly contingent of the townsfolk1 would accompany us even into our bedrooms1 and display the keenest interest in the unpacking of our luggage4 ,there the cook would come and take personal instructions as to the coming meal1 throwing out suggestions the while as to the merits of this or that particular dish1 and in one place the ancient chambermaid insisted that one of the ladies1 who had got a slight cold1 should have the prete put into her bed for a short time to warm it4 ,you need not look shocked1 ,colonel4 ,the prete in question was merely a wooden frame1 in the midst of which hangs a scaldino filled with burning ashes--a most comforting ecclesiastic1 ,i can assure you4 ,all the inns we visited had certain characteristics in common4 ,the entrance is always dirty1 and the staircase too1 the dining rooms fairly comfortable1 the bedrooms always clean and good1 and the food much better than you would expect to find in such out-of-the-way places2 indeed ,i cannot think of any inn where it was not good and wholesome1 while often it was delicious4 ,in short1 ,lady ,considine1 ,i strongly advise you to take a drive in ,italy next spring1 and if ,i am free ,i shall be delighted to act as courier4 ,sir ,john has forgotten one or two touches ,i must fill in1 said the ,marchesa4 ,it was often difficult to arrange a stopping-place for lunch1 so we always stocked our basket before starting4 ,after the first day's experience we decided that it was vastly more pleasant to take our meal while going uphill at a foot-pace1 than in the swing and jolt of a descent1 so the route and the pace of the horses had to be regulated in order to give us a good hour's ascent about noon4 ,fortunately hills are plentiful in this part of ,italy1 and in the keen air we generally made an end of the vast store of provisions we laid in1 and the generous fiascho was always empty a little too soon4 ,our drive came to an end at ,fano1 whither we had gone on account of a strange romantic desire of ,sir ,john to look upon an angel which ,browning had named in one of his poems4 ,ah6 how vividly ,i can recall our pursuit of that picture4 ,it was a wet1 melancholy day4 ,the people of ,fano were careless of the fame of their angel1 for no one knew the church which it graced4 ,at last we came upon it by the merest chance1 and ,sir ,john led the procession up to the shrine1 where we all stood for a time in positions of mock admiration4 ,sir ,john tried hard to keep up the imposition1 but something1 either his innate honesty or the chilling environment of disapproval of ,guercino's handiwork1 was too much for him4 ,he did his best to admire1 but the task was beyond his powers1 and he raised no protest when some scoffer affirmed that1 though ,browning might be a great poet1 he was a mighty poor judge of painting1 when he gave in his beautiful poem immortality to this tawdry theatrical canvas4 ',i think1' said ,sir ,john1 'we had better go back to the hotel and order lunch4 ,it would have been wiser to have ordered it before we left4' ,we were all so much touched by his penitence that no one had the heart to remind him how a proposition as to lunch had been made by our leading ,philistine as soon as we arrived1 a proposition waved aside by ,sir ,john as inadmissible until the ',guardian ,angel' should have been seen and admired4 ,i plead guilty1 said ,sir ,john4 ,i think this experience gave a death-blow to my career as an appreciator4 ,anyhow1 ,i quite forget what the angel was like1 and for reminiscences of ,fano have to fall back upon the excellent colazione we ate in the externally unattractive1 but internally admirable1 ,albergo del ,moro4 ,menu--,lunch4 ,astachi all',italiana4 ,lobster all',italiana ,filetto di bue alla ,napolitana4 ,fillet of beef with ,neapolitan sauce4 ,risotto alla spagnuola4 ,savoury rice4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa alla ,romana4 ,soup with quenelles4 ,salmone alla ,genovese4 ,salmon alla ,genovese4 ,costolette in agro-dolce4 ,mutton cutlets with ,roman sauce4 ,flano di spinacci4 ,spinach in a mould4 ,cappone con rive4 ,capon with rice4 ,croccante di mandorle4 ,almond sweet4 ,ostriche alla ,napolitana4 ,oyster savoury4 ,the ,ninth ,day ,since ,i have been associated with the production of a dinner1 ,i have had my eyes opened as to the complicated nature of the task1 and the numerous strings which have to be pulled in order to ensure success1 said the ,colonel2 but1 seeing that a dinner-party with well-chosen sympathetic guests and distinguished dishes represents one of the consummate triumphs of civilisation1 there is no reason to wonder4 ,to achieve a triumph of any sort demands an effort4 ,effort1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,yes1 effort is the word ,i associate with so many middle-class ,english dinners4 ,it is an effort to the hosts1 who regard the whole business as a mere paying off of debts2 and an effort to the guests1 who1 as they go to dress1 recall grisly memories of former similar experiences4 ,it often astonishes me that dinner-giving of this character should still flourish4 ,the explanation is easy1 said ,van der ,roet2 it flourishes because it gives a mark of distinction4 ,it is a delicious moment for ,mrs4 ,johnson when she is able to say to ,mrs4 ,thompson1 ',my dear1 ,i am quite worn-out2 we dined out every day last week1 and have four more dinners in the next five days4' ,these good people show their ,british grit by the persistency with which they go on with their penitential hospitality1 and their lack of ideas in never attempting to modify it so as to make it a pleasure instead of a disagreeable duty4 ,it won't do to generalise too widely1 ,van der ,roet1 said ,sir ,john4 ,some of these good people surely enjoy their party-giving2 and1 from my own experience of one or two houses of this sort1 ,i can assure you the food is quite respectable4 ,the great imperfection seems to lie in the utter want of consideration in the choice of guests4 ,a certain number of people and a certain quantity of food shot into a room1 that is their notion of a dinner-party4 ,of course we understand that the success of a dinner depends much more on the character of the guests than on the character of the food1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair2 and most of us1 ,i take it1 are able to fill our tables with pleasant friends2 but what of the dull people who know none but dull people8 ,what gain will they get by taking counsel how they shall fill their tables8 ,more1 perhaps1 than you think1 dear ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 said ,sir ,john4 ,dull people often enjoy themselves immensely when they meet dull people only4 ,the frost comes when the host unwisely mixes in one or two guests of another sort--people who give themselves airs of finding more pleasure in reading ,stevenson than the sixpenny magazines1 and who don't know where ,hurlingham is4 ,then the sheep begin to segregate themselves from the goats1 and the feast is manque4 ,considering what a trouble and anxiety a dinner-party must be to the hostess1 even under the most favouring conditions1 ,i am always at a loss to discover why so many women take so much pains1 and spend a considerable sum of money as well1 over details which are unessential1 or even noxious1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding4 ,a few flowers on the table are all very well--one bowl in the centre is enough--but in many houses the cost of the flowers equals1 if it does not outrun1 the cost of all the rest of the entertainment4 ,a few roses or chrysanthemums are perfect as accessories1 but to load a table with flowers of heavy or pungent scent is an outrage4 ,lilies of the valley are lovely in proper surroundings1 but on a dinner-table they are anathema4 ,and then the mass of paper monstrosities which crowd every corner4 ,swans1 nautilus shells1 and even wild boars are used to hold up the menu4 ,once my menu was printed on a satin flag1 and during the war the universal khaki invaded the dinner table4 ,ices are served in frilled baskets of paper1 which have a tendency to dissolve and amalgamate with the sweet4 ,the only paper on the table should be the menu1 writ plain on a handsome card4 ,no one can complain of papery ices here1 said the ,marchesa4 ,ices may be innocuous1 but ,i don't favour them1 and no one seems to have felt the want of them2 at least1 to adopt the phrase of the ,london shopkeeper1 ',i have had no complaints4' ,and even the ice1 the very emblem of purity1 has not escaped the touch of the dinner-table decorator4 ,only a few days ago ,i helped myself with my fingers to what looked like a lovely peach1 and let it flop down into the lap of a bishop who was sitting next to me4 ,this was the hostess's pretty taste in ices4 ,they are generally made in the shape of camelias this season1 said ,van der ,roet4 ,i knew a man who took one and stuck it in his buttonhole4 ,i must say ,i enjoy an ice at dinner1 said ,lady ,considine4 ,i know the doctors abuse them1 but ,i notice they always eat them when they get the chance4 ,ah1 that is merely human inconsistency1 said ,sir ,john4 ,i am inclined to agree with the ,marchesa that ice at dinner is an incongruity1 and may well be dispensed with4 ,i think ,i am correct1 ,marchesa1 in assuming that ,italy1 which has showered so many boons upon us1 gave us also the taste for ices4 ,i fear ,i must agree1 said the ,marchesa4 ,i now feel what a blessing it would have been for you ,english if you had learnt from us instead the art of cooking the admirable vegetables your gardens produce4 ,how is it that ,english cookery has never found any better treatment for vegetables than to boil them quite plain8 ,french beans so treated are tender1 and of a pleasant texture on the palate1 but ,i have never been able to find any taste in them4 ,they are tasteless largely because the cook persists in shredding them into minute bits1 and ,i maintain that they ought to be cooked whole--certainly when they are young--and sautez1 a perfectly plain and easy process1 which is hard to beat4 ,plain boiled cauliflower is doubtless good1 but cooked alla crema it is far better2 indeed1 it is one of the best vegetable dishes ,i know4 ,but perhaps the greatest discovery in cookery we ,italians ever made was the combination of vegetables and cheese4 ,there are a dozen excellent methods of cooking cauliflower with cheese1 and one of these has come to you through ,france1 choux-fleurs au gratin1 and has become popular4 ,jerusalem artichokes treated in the same fashion are excellent2 and the cucumber1 nearly always eaten raw in ,england1 holds a first place as a vegetable for cooking4 ,i seem to remember that every one was loud in its praises when we tasted it as an adjunct to ,manzo alla ,certosina4 ,why is it that celery is for the most part only eaten raw with cheese8 ,we have numberless methods of cooking it in ,italy1 and beetroot and lettuce as well4 ,there is no spinach so good as ,english1 and nowhere is it so badly cooked2 it is always coarse and gritty because so little trouble is taken with it1 and ,i can assure you that the smooth1 delicate dish which we call ,flano di spinacci is not produced merely by boiling and chopping it1 and turning it out into a dish4 ,menu--,lunch ,minestrone alla ,milanese4 ,vegetable broth4 ,coniglio alla ,provenzale4 ,rabbit alla ,provenzale4 ,insalata di pomidoro4 ,tomato salad4 ,menu--,dinner4 ,zuppa alla ,maria ,pia4 ,soup alla ,maria ,pia4 ,anguilla con ortaggi alla ,milanese4 ,eels with vegetables4 ,manzo con sugo di barbabietoli4 ,fillet of beef with beetroot sauce4 ,animelle alla parmegiana4 ,sweetbread with parmesan4 ,perniciotti alla ,gastalda4 ,partridges alla ,gastalda4 ,uova ripiani4 ,stuffed eggs4 ,the ,tenth ,day ,the sun rose on the tenth and last day at the ,laurestinas as he was wont to rise on less eventful mornings4 ,at breakfast the ,marchesa proposed that the lunch that day should be a little more ornate than usual1 and the dinner somewhat simpler4 ,she requisitioned the services of six of the company to prepare the lunch1 and at the same time announced that they would all have a holiday in the afternoon except ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 whom she warned to be ready to spend the afternoon in the kitchen helping prepare the last dinner4 ,four dishes1 all admirable1 appeared at lunch1 and several of the party expressed regret that the heat of the weather forbade them from tasting every one2 but ,sir ,john was not of these4 ,he ate steadily through the menu1 and when he finally laid down his knife and fork he heaved a sigh1 whether of satisfaction or regret it were hard to say4 ,it is a commonplace of the deepest dye to remark that ingratitude is inherent in mankind1 he began2 ,i am compelled to utter it1 however1 by the sudden longing ,i feel for a plate from the hand of the late lamented ,narcisse after ,i have eaten one of the best luncheons ever put on a table4 ,experience of one school of excellence has caused a hankering after the triumphs of another1 said ,miss ,macdonnell ,there is one glory of the ,marchesa1 there is1 or was1 another of ,narcisse1 and the taste of the ,marchesa's handiwork has stimulated the desire of comparision4 ,never mind1 ,sir ,john1 perhaps in another world ,narcisse may cook you-- ,oh stop1 stop1 for goodness' sake1 cried ,sir ,john1 ,i doubt whether even he could make me into a dainty dish to set before the ,king of ,tartarus1 though the stove would no doubt be fitted with the latest improvements and the fuel abundant4 ,really1 ,sir ,john1 ,i'm not sure ,i ought not to rise and protest1 said ,mrs4 ,wilding1 and ,i think ,i would if it weren't our last day4 ,make a note of ,sir ,john's wickedness1 and pass it on to the ,canon for use in a sermon1 said ,van der ,roet4 ,i can only allow you half-an-hour1 ,laura1 said the ,marchesa to ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 then you must come and work with me for the delectation of these idle people1 who are going to spend the afternoon talking scandal under the chestnuts4 ,i am quite ready to join you if ,i can be of any help1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger4 ,when knowledge is to be acquired1 ,i am always loath to stand aside1 not for my own sake so much as for the sake of others less fortunate1 to whom ,i might possibly impart it hereafter4 ,you are very good1 said the ,marchesa1 but ,i think ,i must adhere to my original scheme of having ,mrs4 ,sinclair by herself4 ,i see coffee is now being taken into the garden1 so we will adjourn1 if you please4 ,after the two workers had departed for the kitchen1 an unwonted silence fell on the party under the chestnuts4 ,probably every one was pondering over the imminent dissolution of the company1 and wondering whether to regret or rejoice4 ,the peace had been kept marvellously well1 considering the composition of the company4 ,mrs4 ,fothergill at times had made a show of posing as the beneficent patron1 and ,mrs4 ,gradinger had essayed to teach what nobody wanted to learn2 but firm and judicious snubbing had kept these persons in their proper places4 ,nearly every one was sorry that the end had come4 ,it had been real repose to ,mrs4 ,wilding to pass ten days in an atmosphere entirely free from all perfume of the cathedral close4 ,lady ,considine had been spending freely of late1 and ten days' cessation of tradesmen's calls1 and servants on board wages1 had come as a welcome relief4 ,sir ,john had gained a respite from the task he dreaded1 the task of going in quest of a successor to ,narcisse4 ,now as he sat consuming his cigarette in the leisurely fashion so characteristic of his enjoyment--and those who knew him best were wont to say that ,sir ,john practiced few arts so studiously as that of enjoyment--he could not banish the figure of ,narcisse from his reverie4 ,a horrible thought assailed him that this obsession might spring from the fact that on this very morning ,narcisse might have taken his last brief walk out of the door of ,la ,roquette1 and that his disembodied spirit might be hovering around4 ,admirable as the cookery of the ,marchesa had been1 and fully as he had appreciated it1 he felt he would give a good deal to be assured that on this the last evening of the ,new ,decameron he might sit down to a dinner prepared by the hand of his departed chef4 ,that evening the guests gathered round the table with more empressement than usual4 ,the ,marchesa seemed a little flurried1 and ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 in a way1 shared her excitement4 ,the menu1 for the first time1 was written in ,french1 a fact which did not escape ,sir ,john's eye4 ,he made no remark as to the soup2 it was the best of its kind1 and its ,french name made it no better than the other triumphs in the same field which the ,marchesa had achieved4 ,but when ,sir ,john tasted the first mouthful of the fish he paused1 and after a reflective and regretful look at his plate1 he cast his eye round the table4 ,all the others1 however1 were too busily intent in consuming the ,turbot la ,vatel to heed his interrogative glance1 so he followed suit1 and after he had finished his portion1 asked1 sotto voce1 for another bit4 ,in the interval before the service of the next dish ,sir ,john made several vain attempts to catch the ,marchesa's eye1 and more than once tried to get in a word2 but she kept up a forced and rather nervous conversation with ,lady ,considine and ,van der ,roet1 and refused to listen4 ,as ,sir ,john helped himself to the next dish1 ,venaison sauce ,grand ,veneur1 the feeling of astonishment which had seized him when he first tasted the fish deepened into something like ,consternation4 ,had his palate indeed deceived him1 or had the ,marchesa1 by some subtle effort of experimental genius1 divined the secret of ,narcisse--the secret of that incomparable sauce1 the recipe of which was safely bestowed in his pocket-book8 ,occasionally he had taken a brief nap under the verandah after lunch3 was it possible that in his sleep he might have murmured1 in her hearing1 words which gave the key of the mystery1 and the description of those ingredients which often haunted his dreams8 ,one thing was certain1 that the savour which rose from the venison before him was the same which haunted his memory as the parting effort of the ill-starred ,narcisse4 ,sir ,john was the least superstitious of mortals1 still here he was face to face with one of these conjunctions of affairs which the credulous accept as manifestations of some hidden power1 and sceptics as coincidences and nothing more4 ,all the afternoon he had been thinking of ,narcisse1 and yearning beyond measure for something suggestive of his art2 and here1 on his plate before him1 was food which might have been touched by the vanished hand4 ,the same subtle influence pervaded the ,chartreuse a la cardinal1 the roast capon and salad1 and the sweet4 ,at last1 when the dinner was nearly over1 and when the ,marchesa had apparently said all she had to say to ,van der ,roet1 he lifted up his voice and said1 ,marchesa1 who gave you the recipe for the sauce with which the venison was served this evening8 ,the ,marchesa glanced at ,mrs4 ,sinclair1 and then struck a hand-bell on the table4 ,the door opened1 and a little man1 habited in a cook's dress of spotless white1 entered and came forward4 ,m4 ,narcisse1 said the ,marchesa1 ,sir ,john wants to know what sauce was used in dressing the venison2 perhaps you can tell him4 ,here the ,marchesa rose and left the room1 and all the rest followed her1 feeling it was unmeet that such a reunion should be witnessed by other eyes1 however friendly they might be4 99 99 99 99 99 ,now1 you must tell us all about it1 said ,lady ,considine1 as soon as they got into the drawing-room1 and how you ever managed to get him out of this scrape4 ,oh1 there isn't much to tell1 said the ,marchesa4 ,narcisse was condemned1 indeed1 but no one ever believed he would be executed4 ,one of my oldest friends is married to an official high up in the ,ministry of ,justice1 and ,i heard from her last week that ,narcisse would certainly be reprieved2 but ,i never expected a free pardon4 ,indeed1 he got this entirely because it was discovered that ,mademoiselle ,sidonie1 his accomplice1 was really a ,miss ,adah ,levine1 who had graduated at a music-hall in ,east ,london1 and that she had announced her intention of retiring to the land of her birth1 and ascending to the apex of her profession on the strength of her ,parisian reputation4 ,then it was that the reaction in favour of ,narcisse set in2 the boulevards could not stand this4 ,the journals dealt with this new outrage in their best ,fashoda style2 the cafes rang with it3 another insult cast upon unhappy ,france1 whose destiny was1 it seemed1 to weep tears of blood to the end of time4 ,there were rumours of an interpellation in the ,chamber1 the position of the ,minister of the ,interior was spoken of as precarious1 indeed the ,eclaireur reported one evening that he had resigned4 ,pockets were picked under the eyes of sergents de ville1 who were absorbed in proclaiming to each other their conviction of the innocence of ,narcisse1 and the guilt of cette coquine ,anglaise4 ,cabmen en course ran down pedestrians by the dozen1 as they discussed l'affaire ,narcisse to an accompaniment of whip-cracking4 ,in front of the ,cafe des ,automobiles a belated organ-grinder began to grind the air of ,mademoiselle ,sidonie's great song ,bonjour ,coco1 whereupon the whole company rose with howls and cries of1 ',a bas les ,anglais1 a bas les ,juifs4 ',conspuez ,coco4' ,in less than five minutes the organ was disintegrated1 and the luckless minstrel flying with torn trousers down a side street4 ,for the next few days la haute gomme promenaded with fragments of the piano organ suspended from watch chains as trophies of victory4 ,but this was not all4 ,paris broke out into poetry over l'affaire ,narcisse1 and here is a journal sent to me by my friend which contains a poem in forty-nine stanzas by ,aristophane le ,beletier1 the cher maitre of the ',moribonds1' the very newest school of poetry in ,paris4 ,i won't inflict the whole of it on you1 but two stanzas ,i must read-- ',puisse-je te rappeler loin des brouillards maudits4 ,vers la ,france1 sainte mere et nourrice6 ,reviens a ,lutece1 de l'art vrai paradis1 ,je t'evoque1 ,o ,monsieur ,narcisse6 ,quitte les saignants bifteks1 de tes mains sublimes ,gueris le sein meurtri de ta mere6 ,detourne ton glaive trenchant de tes freles victimes ,vers l',albion et sa triste ,megere4' ,dear me1 it sounds a little like some other ,parisian odes ,i have read recently1 said ,lady ,considine4 ,the triste ,megere1 ,i take it1 is poor old ,britannia1 but what does he mean by his freles victimes8 ,no doubt they are the pigeons and the rabbits1 and the chickens and the capons which ,narcisse is supposed to have slaughtered in hecatombs1 in order to gorge the brutal appetite of his ,english employer1 said ,miss ,macdonnell4 ,after disregarding such an appeal as this ,m4 ,narcisse had better keep clear of ,paris for the future1 for if he should go back and be recognised ,i fancy it would be a case of 'conspuvez ,narcisse4' ,the ,french seem to have lost all sense of exactness1 said ,mrs4 ,gradinger1 for the lines you have just read would not pass muster as classic4 ,in the penultimate line there are two syllables in excess of the true ,alexandrine metre1 and the last line seems too long by one4 ,neither ,racine nor ,voltaire would have taken such liberties with prosody4 ,i remember a speech in ,phaedre of more than a hundred lines which is an admirable example of what ,i mean4 ,i dare say some of you know it4 ,it begins3-- ,perfide6 oses-tu bien te montrer devant moi8 ,monstre1 but before the reciter could get fairly under way the door mercifully opened1 and ,sir ,john entered4 ,he advanced towards the ,marchesa1 and shook her warmly by the hand1 but said nothing2 his heart was evidently yet too full to allow him to testify his relief in words4 ,he was followed closely by the ,colonel1 who1 taking his stand on the hearth-rug1 treated the company to a few remarks1 couched in a strain of unwonted eulogy4 ,in the whole course of his life he had never passed a more pleasant ten days1 though1 to be sure1 he had been a little mistrustful at first4 ,as to the outcome of the experiment1 if they all made even moderate use of the counsels they had received from the ,marchesa1 the future of cookery in ,england was now safe4 ,he was not going to propose a formal vote of thanks1 because anything he could say would be entirely insufficient to express the gratitude he felt1 and because he deemed that each individual could best thank the ,marchesa on his or her behalf4 ,there was a momentary silence when the ,colonel ceased1 and then a clearing of the throat and a preliminary movement of the arms gave warning that ,mrs4 ,gradinger was going to speak4 ,the unspoken passage from ,racine evidently sat heavily on her chest4 ,abstracted and overwrought as he was1 these symptoms aroused in ,sir ,john a consciousness of impending danger1 and he rushed1 incontinent1 into the breach1 before the lady's opening sentence was ready4 ,as ,colonel ,trestrail has just remarked1 we1 all of us1 are in debt to the ,marchesa in no small degree2 but1 in my case1 the debt is tenfold4 ,i am sure you all understand why4 ,as a slight acknowledgment of the sympathy ,i have received from every one here1 during my late trial1 ,i beg to ask you all to dine with me this day week1 when ,i will try to set before you a repast a la ,francaise1 which ,i hope may equal1 ,i cannot hope that it will excel1 the dinners all',italiana we have tasted in this happy retreat4 ,narcisse and ,i have already settled the menu4 ,i am delighted to accept1 said the ,marchesa4 ,i have no engagement1 and if ,i had ,i would throw my best friend over4 ,and this day fortnight you must all dine with me1 said ,mrs4 ,sinclair4 ,i will spend the intervening days in teaching my new cook how to reproduce the ,marchesa's dishes4 ,then1 perhaps1 we may be in a better position to decide on the success of the ,marchesa's experiment4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the next morning witnessed the dispersal of the party4 ,sir ,john and ,narcisse left by an early train1 and for the next few days the reforming hand of the last-named was active in the kitchen4 ,he arrived before the departure of the temporary aide1 and had not been half-an-hour in the house before there came an outbreak which might easily have ended in the second appearance of ,narcisse at the bar of justice1 as homicide1 this time to be dealt with by a prosaic ,british jury1 which would probably have doomed him to the halter4 ,sir ,john listened over the balusters to the shrieks and howls of his recovered treasure1 and wisely decided to lunch at his club4 ,but the club lunch1 admirable as it was1 seemed flat and unappetising after the dainty yet simple dishes he had recently tasted2 and the following day he set forth to search for one of those ,italian restaurants1 of which he had heard vague reports4 ,certainly the repast would not be the same as at the ,laurestinas1 but it might serve for once4 ,alas6 ,sir ,john did not find the right place1 for there are right places amongst the ,italian restaurants of ,london4 ,he beat a hasty retreat from the first he entered1 when the officious proprietor assured him that he would serve up a dejeuner in the best ,french style4 ,at the second he chose a dish with an ,italian name1 but the name was the only ,italian thing about it4 ,the experiment had failed4 ,it seemed as if ,italian restaurateurs were sworn not to cook ,italian dishes1 and the next day he went to do as best he could at the club4 ,but before he reached the club door he recalled how1 many years ago1 he and other young bloods used to go for chops to ,morton's1 a queer little house at the back of ,st4 ,james' ,street1 and towards ,morton's he now turned his steps4 ,as he entered it1 it seemed as if it was only yesterday that he was there4 ,he beheld the waiter1 with mouth all awry1 through calling down the tube4 ,the same old mahogany partitions to the boxes1 and the same horse-hair benches4 ,sir ,john seated himself in a box1 where there was one other luncher in the corner1 deeply absorbed over a paper4 ,this luncher raised his head and ,sir ,john recognised ,van der ,roet4 ,my dear ,vander1 whatever brought you here1 where nothing is to be had but chops8 ,i didn't know you could eat a chop4 ,i didn't know it myself till to-day1 said ,van der ,roet1 with a hungry glance at the waiter1 who rushed by with a plate of smoking chops in each hand4 ,the fact is1 ,i've had a sort of hankering after an ,italian lunch1 and ,i went out to find one1 but ,i didn't exactly hit on the right shop1 so ,i came here1 where ,i've been told you can get a chop properly cooked1 if you don't mind waiting4 ,ah6 ,i see1 said ,sir ,john1 laughing4 ,we've both been on the same quest1 and have been equally unlucky4 ,well1 we shall satisfy our hunger here at any rate1 and not unpleasantly either4 ,i went to one place1 said ,van der ,roet and before ordering ,i asked the waiter if there was any garlic in the dish ,i had ordered4 ',garlic1 aglio1 no1 sir1 never4' ,whereupon ,i thought ,i would go somewhere else4 ,next ,i entered the establishment of ,baldassare ,romanelli4 ,how could a man with such a name serve anything else than the purest ,italian cookery1 ,i reasoned1 so ,i ordered1 unquestioning1 a piatio with an ideal ,italian name1 ,manzo alla ,terracina4 ,alas6 the beef used in the composition thereof must have come in a refrigerating chamber from pastures more remote than those of ,terracina1 and the sauce served with it was simply fried onions4 ,in short1 my dish was beefsteak and onions1 and very bad at that4 ,so in despair ,i fell back upon the trusty ,british chop4 ,as ,van der ,roet ceased speaking another guest entered the room1 and he and ,sir ,john listened attentively while the new-comer gave his order4 ,there was no mistaking the ,colonel's strident voice4 ,now1 look here6 ,i want a chop underdone1 underdone1 you understand1 with a potato1 and a small glass of ,scotch whisky1 and ,i'll sit here4 ,the ,colonel1 by ,jove1 said ,sir ,john2 ,i expect he's been restaurant-hunting too4 ,hallo6 said the ,colonel1 as he recognised the other two1 ,i never thought ,i should meet you here3 fact is1 ,i've been reading about agricultural depression' and how it is the duty of everybody to eat chops so as to encourage the mutton trade1 and that sort of thing4 ,oh1 ,colonel1 ,colonel1 said ,van der ,roet4 ,you know you've been hungering after the cookery of ,italy1 and trying to find a genuine ,italian lunch1 and have failed1 just as ,sir ,john and ,i failed1 and have come here in despair4 ,but never mind1 just wait for a year or so1 until the ',cook's ,decameron' has had a fair run for its money1 and then you'll find you'll fare as well at the ordinary ,italian restaurant as you did at the ',laurestinas1' and that's saying a good deal4 ,,part ,,ii--,,recipes ,sauces ,as the three chief foundation sauces in cookery1 ,espagnole or brown sauce1 ,velute or white sauce1 and ,bechamel1 are alluded to so often in these pages1 it will be well to give simple ,italian recipes for them4 ,australian wines may be used in all recipes where wine is mentioned3 ,harvest ,burgundy for red1 and ,chasselas for ,chablis4 ,no4 #a4 ,espagnole1 or ,brown ,sauce ,the chief ingredient of this useful sauce is good stock1 to which add any remnants and bones of fowl or game4 ,butter the bottom of a stewpan with at least two ounces of butter1 and in it put slices of lean veal1 ham1 bacon1 cuttings of beef1 fowl1 or game trimmings1 three peppercorns1 mushroom trimmings1 a tomato1 a carrot and a turnip cut up1 an onion stuck with two cloves1 a bay leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 parsley and marjoram4 ,put the lid on the stewpan and braize well for fifteen minutes1 then stir in a tablespoonful of flour1 and pour in a quarter pint of good boiling stock and boil very gently for fifteen minutes1 then strain through a tamis1 skim off all the grease1 pour the sauce into an earthenware vessel1 and let it get cold4 ,if it is not rich enough1 add a little ,liebig or glaze4 ,pass through a sieve again before using4 ,no4 #b4 ,velute ,sauce ,the same as above1 but use white stock1 no beef1 and only pheasant or fowl trimmings1 button mushrooms1 cream instead of glaze1 and a chopped shallot4 ,no4 #c4 ,bechamel ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,butter1 ham1 veal1 carrots1 shallot1 celery bay leaf1 cloves1 thyme1 peppercorns1 potato flour1 cream1 fowl stock4 ,prepare a mirepoix by mixing two ounces of butter1 trimmings of lean veal and ham1 a carrot1 a shallot1 a little celery1 all cut into dice1 a bay leaf1 two cloves1 four peppercorns1 and a little thyme4 ,put this on a moderate fire so as not to let it colour1 and when all the moisture is absorbed add a tablespoonful of potato flour4 ,mix well1 and gradually add equal quantities of cream and fowl stock1 and stir till it boils4 ,then let it simmer gently4 ,stir occasionally1 and if it gets too thick1 add more cream and white stock4 ,after two hours pass it twice slowly through a tamis so as to get the sauce very smooth4 ,no4 #d4 ,mirepoix ,sauce 7for masking7 ,ingredients3 ,bacon1 onions1 carrots1 ham1 a bunch of herbs1 parsley1 mushrooms1 cloves1 peppercorns1 stock1 ,chablis4 ,put the following ingredients into a stewpan3 ,some bits of bacon and lean ham1 a carrot1 all cut into dice1 half an onion1 a bunch of herbs1 a few mushroom cuttings1 two cloves1 and four peppercorns4 ,to this add one and a quarter pint of good stock and a glass of ,chablis1 boil rapidly for ten minutes then simmer till it is reduced to a third4 ,pass through a sieve and use for masking meat1 fowl1 fish1 c4 ,no4 #e4 ,genoese ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,onion1 butter1 ,burgundy1 mushrooms1 truffles1 parsley1 bay leaf1 ,espagnole sauce 7,no4#a71 blond of veal1 essence of fish1 anchovy butter1 crayfish or lobster butter4 ,cut up a small onion and fry it in butter1 add a glass of ,burgundy1 some cuttings of mushrooms and truffles1 a pinch of chopped parsley and half a bay leaf4 ,reduce half4 ,in another saucepan put two cups of ,espagnole sauce1 one cup of veal stock1 and a tablespoonful of essence of fish1 reduce one-third and add it to the other saucepan1 skim off all the grease1 boil for a few minutes1 and pass through a sieve4 ,then stir it over the fire1 and add half a teaspoonful of crayfish and half of anchovy butter4 ,no4 #f4 ,italian ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,chablis1 mushrooms1 leeks1 a bunch of herbs1 peppercorns1 ,espagnole sauce1 game gravy or stock1 lemon4 ,put into a stewpan two glasses of ,chablis1 two tablespoonsful of mushroom trimmings1 a leek cut up1 a bunch of herbs1 five peppercorns1 and boil till it is reduced to half4 ,in another stewpan mix two glasses of ,espagnole 7,no4 #a7 or ,velute sauce 7,no #b7 and half a glass of game gravy1 boil for a few minutes then blend the contents of the two stewpans1 pass through a sieve1 and add the juice of a lemon4 ,no4 #g4 ,ham ,sauce1 ,salsa di ,prosciutto ,ingredients3 ,ham1 ,musca or sweet port1 vinegar1 basil spice4 ,cut up an ounce of ham and pound it in a mortar then mix it with three dessert spoonsful of port or ,musca and a teaspoonful of vinegar a little dried basil and a pinch of spice4 ,boil it up1 and then pass it through a sieve and warm it up in a bain-marie4 ,serve with roast meats4 ,if you cannot get a sweet wine add half a teaspoonful of sugar4 ,australian ,muscat is a good wine to use4 ,no4 #h4 ,tarragon ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,tarragon1 stock1 butter1 flour4 ,to half a pint of good stock add two good sprays of fresh tarragon1 simmer for quarter of an hour in a stewpan and keep the lid on4 ,in another stewpan melt one ounce of butter and mix it with three dessert-spoonsful of flour1 then gradually pour the stock from the first stewpan over it1 but take out the tarragon4 ,mix well1 add a teaspoonful of finely chopped tarragon and boil for two minutes4 ,no4 #i4 ,tomato ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,tomatoes1 ham1 onions1 basil1 salt1 oil1 garlic1 spices4 ,broil three tomatoes1 skin them and mix them with a tablespoonful of chopped ham1 half an onion1 salt1 a dessert-spoonful of oil1 a little pounded spice and basil4 ,then boil and pass through a sieve4 ,whilst the sauce is boiling1 put in a clove of garlic with a cut1 but remove it before you pass the sauce through the sieve4 ,no4 #aj4 ,tomato ,sauce ,piquante ,ingredients3 ,ham1 butter1 onion1 carrot1 celery1 bay leaf1 thyme1 cloves1 peppercorns1 vinegar1 ,chablis1 stock1 tomatoes1 ,velute or ,espagnole sauce1 castor sugar1 lemon4 ,cut up an ounce of ham1 half an onion1 half a carrot1 half a stick of celery very fine1 and fry them in butter together with a bay leaf1 a sprig of thyme1 one clove and four peppercorns4 ,over this pour a third of a cup of vinegar1 and when the liquid is all absorbed1 add half a glass of ,chablis and a cup of stock4 ,then add six tomatoes cut up and strained of all their liquid4 ,cook this in a covered stewpan and pass it through a sieve1 but see that none of the bay leaf or thyme goes through4 ,mix this sauce with an equal quantity of ,velute 7,no4 #b7 or ,espagnole sauce1 7,no4 #a71 let it boil and pass through a sieve again and at the last add a teaspoonful of castor sugar1 the juice of half a lemon1 and an ounce of fresh butter4 7,another tomato sauce may be made like this1 but use stock instead of vinegar and leave out the lemon juice and sugar47 ,no4 #aa4 ,mushroom ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,velute sauce1 essence of mushrooms1 butter4 ,mix two dessert-spoonsful of essence of mushrooms with a cupful of ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b71 reduce1 keep on stirring1 and just before serving add an ounce of butter4 ,this sauce can be made with essence of truffle1 or game1 or shallot4 ,no4 #ab4 ,neapolitan ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,onions1 ham1 butter1 ,marsala1 blond of veal1 thyme1 bay leaf1 peppercorns1 cloves1 mushrooms1 ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a71 tomato sauce1 game stock or essence4 ,fry an onion in butter with some bits of cut-up ham1 then pour a glass of ,marsala over it1 and another of blond of veal1 add a sprig of thyme1 a bay leaf1 four peppercorns1 a clove1 a tablespoonful of mushroom cuttings1 and reduce half4 ,in another saucepan put two cups of ,espagnole sauce1 one cupful of tomato sauce1 and half a cup of game stock or essence4 ,reduce a third1 and add the contents of the first saucepan1 boil the sauce a few minutes1 and pass it through a sieve4 ,warm it up in a bain-marie before using4 ,no4 #ac4 ,neapolitan ,anchovy ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,anchovies1 fennel1 flour1 spices1 parsley1 marjoram1 garlic1 lemon juice1 vinegar1 cream4 ,wash three anchovies in vinegar1 bone and pound them in a mortar with a teaspoonful of chopped fennel and a pinch of cinnamon4 ,then mix in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and marjoram1 a squeeze of lemon juice1 a teaspoonful of flour1 half a gill of boiled cream and the bones of the fish for which you will use this sauce4 ,pass through a sieve1 add a clove of garlic with a cut in it1 and boil4 ,if the fish you are using is cooked in the oven1 add a little of the liquor in which it has been cooked to the sauce4 ,take out the garlic before serving4 ,instead of anchovies you may use caviar1 pickled tunny1 or any other pickled fish4 ,no4 #ad4 ,roman ,sauce 7,salsa ,agro-dolce7 ,ingredients3 ,espagnole sauce1 stock1 burnt sugar1 vinegar1 raisins1 pine nuts or almonds4 ,mix two spoonsful of burnt sugar with one of vinegar1 and dilute with a little good stock4 ,then add two cups of ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a71 a few stoned raisins1 and a few pinocchi99 7pine nuts7 or shredded almonds4 ,keep this hot in a bain-marie1 and serve with cutlets1 calf's head or feet or tongue4 99,the pinocchi which ,italians use instead of almonds can be bought in ,london when in season4 ,no4 #ae4 ,roman ,sauce 7another way7 ,ingredients3 ,espagnole sauce1 an onion1 butter1 flour1 lemon1 herbs1 nutmeg1 raisins1 pine nuts or almonds1 burnt sugar4 ,cut up a small bit of onion1 fry it slightly in butter and a little flour1 add the juice of a lemon and a little of the peel grated1 a bouquet of herbs1 a pinch of nutmeg1 a few stoned raisins1 shredded almonds or pinocchi1 and a tablespoonful of burnt sugar4 ,add this to a good ,espagnole 7,no4 #a71 and warm it up in a bain-marie4 ,no4 #af4 ,supreme ,sauce ,ingredients3 ,white sauce1 fowl stock1 butter4 ,put three-quarters of a pint of white sauce into a saucepan1 and when it is nearly boiling add half a cup of concentrated fowl stock4 ,reduce until the sauce is quite thick1 and when about to serve pass it through a tamis into a bain-marie and add two tablespoonsful of cream4 ,no4 #ag4 ,pasta marinate 7,for masking ,italian ,frys7 ,ingredients3 ,semolina flour1 eggs1 salt1 butter 7or olive oil71 vinegar1 water4 ,mix the following ingredients well together3 two ounces of semolina flour1 the yolks of two eggs1 a little salt1 and two ounces of melted butter4 ,add a glass of water so as to form a liquid substance4 ,at the last add the whites of two eggs beaten up to a snow4 ,this will make a good paste for masking meat1 fish1 vegetables1 or sweets which are to be fried in the ,italian manner1 but if for meat or vegetables add a few drops of vinegar or a little lemon juice4 ,no4 #ah4 ,white ,villeroy ,ingredients3 ,butter1 flour1 eggs1 cream1 nutmeg1 white stock4 ,make a light-coloured roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour1 stir in some white stock and keep it very smooth4 ,let it boil1 and add the yolks of three eggs1 mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream and a pinch of nutmeg4 ,pass it through a sieve and use for masking cutlets1 fish1 c4 ,soups ,no4 #ai4 ,clear ,soup ,ingredients3 ,stock meat1 water1 a bunch of herbs 7thyme1 parsley1 chervil1 bay leaf1 basil1 marjoram71 three carrots1 three turnips1 three onions1 three cloves stuck in the onions1 one blade of mace4 ,cut up three pounds of stock meat small and put it in a stock pot with two quarts of cold water1 three carrots1 and three turnips cut up1 three onions with a clove stuck in each one1 a bunch of herbs and a blade of mace4 ,let it come to the boil and then draw it off1 at once skim off all the scum1 and keep it gently simmering1 and occasionally add two or three tablespoonsful of cold water4 ,let it simmer all day1 and then strain it through a fine cloth4 ,some of the liquor in which a calf's head has been cooked1 or even a calf's foot1 will greatly improve a clear soup4 ,the stock should never be allowed to boil as long as the meat and vegetables are in the stock pot4 ,no4 #bj4 ,zuppa ,primaverile 7,spring ,soup7 ,ingredients3 ,clear soup1 vegetables4 ,any fresh spring vegetables will do for this soup1 but they must all be cooked separately and put into the soup at the last minute4 ,it is best made with fresh peas1 asparagus tips1 and a few strips of tarragon4 ,no4 #ba4 ,soup alla ,lombarda ,ingredients3 ,clear soup1 fowl forcemeat1 ,bechamel 7,no4 #c71 peas1 lobster butter1 eggs1 asparagus4 ,make a firm forcemeat of fowl and divide it into three parts1 to the first add two spoonsful of cream ,bechamel1 to the second four spoonsful of puree of green peas1 to the third two spoonsful of lobster butter and the yolk of an egg2 thus you will have the ,italian colours1 red1 white1 and green4 ,butter a pie dish and make little quenelles of the forcemeat4 ,just before serving boil them for four minutes in boiling stock1 take them out carefully and put them in a warm soup tureen with two spoonsful of cooked green peas and pour a very fresh clear soup over them4 ,hand little croutons fried in lobster butter separately4 ,no4 #bb4 ,tuscan ,soup ,ingredients3 ,stock1 eggs4 ,whip up three or four eggs1 gradually add good stock to them1 and keep on whisking them up until they begin to curdle4 ,keep the soup hot in a bain-marie4 ,no4 #bc4 ,venetian ,soup ,ingredients3 ,clear soup1 butter1 flour1 ,parmesan1 eggs4 ,make a roux by frying two ounces of butter and two ounces of flour1 add an ounce of grated cheese and half a cup of good stock4 ,mix up well so as to form a paste1 and then take it off the fire and add the yolks of four eggs1 mix again and form the again and form the paste into little quenelles4 ,boil these in a little soup1 strain off1 put them into the tureen and pour a good clear soup over them4 ,no4 #bd4 ,roman ,soup ,ingredients3 ,stock1 butter1 eggs1 salt1 crumb of bread1 parsley1 nutmeg1 flour1 ,parmesan4 ,mix three and a half ounces of butter with two eggs and four ounces of crumbs of bread soaked in stock1 a little chopped parsley1 salt1 and a pinch of nutmeg4 ,reduce this and add two tablespoonsful of flour and one of grated ,parmesan4 ,form this into little quenelles and boil them in stock for a few minutes put them into a tureen and pour a good clear soup over them4 ,no4 #be4 ,soup alla ,nazionale ,ingredients3 ,clear soup1 savoury custard4 ,make a savoury custard and divide it into three parts1 one to be left white1 another coloured red with tomato1 and the third green with spinach4 ,put a layer of each in a buttered saucepan and cook for about ten minutes1 cut it into dice1 so that you have the three ,italian colours 7red1 white1 and green7 together1 then put the custard into a soup tureen and pour a good clear soup over it4 ,no4 #bf4 ,soup alla ,modanese ,ingredients3 ,stock1 spinach1 butter1 salt1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 nutmeg1 croutons4 ,wash one pound of spinach in five or six waters1 then chop it very fine and mix it with three ounces of butter1 salt it and warm it up4 ,then let it get cold1 pass through a hair sieve1 and add two eggs1 a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 and very little nutmeg4 ,add this to some boiling stock in a copper saucepan1 put on the lid1 and on the top put some hot coals so that the eggs may curdle and help to thicken the soup4 ,serve with fried croutons4 ,no4 #bg4 ,crotopo ,soup ,ingredients3 ,clear soup1 veal1 ham1 eggs1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 rolls4 ,pound half a pound of lean veal in a mortar1 then add three ounces of cooked ham with some fat in it1 the yolk of an egg1 salt1 pepper1 and very little nutmeg4 ,pass through a sieve1 cut some small ,french rolls into slices1 spread them with the above mixture1 and colour them in the oven4 ,then cut them in halves or quarters1 put them into a tureen1 and just before serving pour a very good clear soup over them4 ,no4 #bh4 ,soup all',imperatrice ,ingredients3 ,breast of fowl1 eggs1 salt1 pepper1 ground rice1 nutmeg1 clear stock4 ,pound the breast of a fowl in a mortar1 and add to it a teaspoonful of ground rice1 the yolk of an egg1 salt1 pepper1 and a pinch of nutmeg4 ,pass this through a sieve1 form quenelles with it1 and pour a good clear soup over them4 ,no4 #bi4 ,neapolitan ,soup ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 potato flour1 eggs1 ,bechamel sauce1 peas1 asparagus1 spinach1 clear soup4 ,mix a quarter pound of forcemeat of fowl with a tablespoonful of potato flour1 a tablespoonful of ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c71 and the yolk of an egg2 put this into a tube about the size round of an ordinary macaroni2 twenty minutes before serving squirt the forcemeat into a saucepan with boiling stock1 and nip off the forcemeat as it comes through the pipe into pieces about an inch and a half long4 ,let it simmer1 and add boiled peas and asparagus tips4 ,if you like to have the fowl macaroni white and green1 you can colour half the forcemeat with a spoonful of spinach colouring4 ,serve in a good clear soup4 ,no4 #cj4 ,soup with ,risotto ,ingredients3 ,risotto 7,no4 #ahi71 eggs1 bread crumbs1 clear or brown soup4 ,if you have some good risotto left1 you can use it up by making it into little balls the size of small nuts4 ,egg and bread crumb and fry them in butter2 dry them and put them into a soup tureen with hot soup4 ,the soup may be either clear or brown4 ,no4 #ca4 ,soup alla ,canavese ,ingredients3 ,white stock1 butter1 onions1 carrot1 celery1 tomato1 cauliflower1 fat bacon1 parsley1 sage1 ,parmesan1 salt1 pepper4 ,chop up half an onion1 half a carrot1 half a stick of celery1 a small bit of fat bacon1 and fry them in two ounces of butter4 ,then cover them with good white stock1 boil for a few minutes1 pass through a sieve1 and add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree4 ,then blanch half a cauliflower in salted water1 let it get cold1 drain all the water out of it1 and break it up into little bunches and put them into a stock pot with the stock1 a small leaf of dried sage1 crumbled up1 and a little chopped parsley1 and let it all boil2 add a pinch of grated cheese and some pepper4 ,serve with grated ,parmesan handed separately4 ,no4 #cb4 ,soup alla ,maria ,pia ,ingredients3 ,white stock1 eggs1 butter1 peas1 white beans1 carrot1 onion1 leeks1 celery1 cream croutons4 ,soak one pound of white beans for twelve hours1 then put them into a stock pot with a little salt1 butter1 and water1 add a carrot1 an onion1 two leeks1 and a stick of celery1 and simmer until the vegetables are well cooked2 then take out all the fresh vegetables1 drain the beans and pass them through a sieve1 but first dilute them with good stock4 ,put this puree into a stock pot with good white stock1 and when it has boiled keep it hot in a bain-marie until you are about to serve2 then mix the yolk of three eggs in a cup of cream1 and add this to the soup4 ,pour the soup into a warm tureen1 add some boiled green peas1 and serve with fried croutons handed separately4 ,no4 #cc4 ,zuppa d' ,erbe 7,lettuce ,soup7 ,ingredients3 ,stock1 sorrel1 endive1 lettuce1 chervil1 celery1 carrot1 onion1 ,french roll1 ,parmesan cheese4 ,boil the following vegetables and herbs in very good stock for an hour3 ,two small bunches of sorrel1 a bunch of endive1 a lettuce1 a small bunch of chervil1 a stick of celery1 a carrot and an onion1 all well washed and cut up4 ,then put some slices of toasted ,french roll into a tureen and pour the above soup over them4 ,serve with grated ,parmesan handed separately4 ,no4 #cd4 ,zuppa ,regina di ,riso 7,queen's ,soup7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl stock1 ground rice1 milk1 butter4 ,put a tablespoonful of ground rice into a saucepan and gradually add half a pint of milk1 boil it gently for twelve minutes in a bainmarie1 but stir the whole time1 so as to get it very smooth4 ,just before serving add an ounce of butter1 pass it through a sieve1 and mix it with good fowl stock4 ,minestre ,minestra is a thick broth1 very much like hotch-potch1 only thicker4 ,in ,italy it is often served at the beginning of dinner instead of soup2 it also makes an excellent lunch dish4 ,two or three tablespoonsful of ,no4 #ce will be found a great improvement to any of these minestre4 ,no4 #ce4 ,a ,condiment for ,seasoning ,minestre1 c4 ,ingredients3 ,onions1 celery1 carrots1 butter1 salt1 stock1 tomatoes1 mushrooms4 ,cut up an onion1 a stick of celery1 and a carrot2 fry them in butter and salt2 add a few bits of cooked ham and veal cut up1 two mushrooms1 and the pulp of a tomato4 ,cook for a quarter of an hour1 and add a little stock occasionally to keep it moist4 ,pass through a sieve1 and use for seasoning minestre1 macaroni1 rice1 c4 ,it should be added when the dish is nearly cooked4 ,no4 #cf4 ,minestra alla ,casalinga ,ingredients3 ,rice1 butter1 stock1 vegetables4 ,all sorts of vegetables will serve for this dish4 ,blanch them in boiling salted water1 then drain and fry them in butter4 ,add plenty of good stock1 and put them on a slow fire4 ,boil four ounces of rice in stock1 and when it is well done add the stock with the vegetables4 ,season with two or three spoonsful of ,no4 #ce1 and serve with grated cheese handed separately4 ,no4 #cg4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,turnips ,ingredients3 ,rice1 turnips1 butter1 gravy1 tomatoes4 ,cut three or four young turnips into slices and put them on a dish1 strew a little salt over them1 cover them with another dish1 and let them stand for about two hours until the water has run out of them4 ,then drain the slices1 put them in a frying-pan and fry them slightly in butter4 ,add some good gravy and mashed-up tomatoes1 and after having cooked this for a few minutes pour it into good boiling stock4 ,add three ounces of well-washed rice1 and boil for half-an-hour4 ,minestra loses its flavour if it is boiled too long4 ,in ,lombardy1 however1 rice1 macaroni1 c41 are rarely boiled enough for ,english tastes4 ,no4 #ch4 ,minestra alla ,capucina ,ingredients3 ,rice1 anchovies1 butter1 stock1 and onions4 ,scale an anchovy1 pound it1 and fry it in butter together with a small onion cut across1 and four ounces of boiled rice4 ,add a little salt1 and when the rice is a golden brown1 take out the onion and gradually add some good stock until the dish is of the consistency of rice pudding4 ,no4 #ci4 ,minestra of ,semolina ,ingredients3 ,stock1 semolina1 ,parmesan4 ,put as much stock as you require into a saucepan1 and when it begins to boil add semolina very gradually1 and stir to keep it from getting lumpy ,cook it until the semolina is soft1 and serve with grated ,parmesan handed separately4 ,to one quart of soup use three ounces of semolina4 ,no4 #dj4 ,minestrone alla ,milanese ,ingredients3 ,rice or macaroni1 ham1 bacon1 stock1 all sorts of vegetables4 ,minestrone is a favourite dish in ,lombardy when vegetables are plentiful4 ,boil all sorts of vegetables in stock1 and add bits of bacon1 ham1 onions braized in butter1 chopped parsley1 a clove of garlic with two cuts1 and rice or macaroni4 ,put in those vegetables first which require most cooking1 and do not make the broth too thin4 ,leave the garlic in for a quarter of an hour only4 ,no4 #da4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,cabbage ,ingredients3 ,rice1 cabbage1 stock1 ham1 tomato sauce4 ,cut off the stalk and all the hard outside leaves of a cabbage1 wash it and cut it up1 but not too small1 then drain and cook it in good stock and add two ounces of boiled rice4 ,this minestre is improved by adding a little chopped ham and a few spoonsful of tomato sauce4 ,no4 #db4 ,minestra of ,rice and ,celery ,ingredients3 ,celery1 rice1 stock4 ,cut up a head of celery and remove all the green parts1 then boil it in good stock and add two ounces of rice1 and boil till it is well cooked4 ,fish ,no4 #dc4 ,anguilla alla ,milanese 7,eels74 ,ingredients3 ,eels1 butter1 flour1 stock1 bay leaves1 salt1 pepper1 ,chablis1 a macedoine of vegetables4 ,cut up a big eel and fry it in two ounces of butter1 and when it is a good colour add a tablespoonful of flour1 about half a pint of stock1 a glass of ,chablis1 a bay leaf1 pepper1 and salt1 and boil till it is well cooked4 ,in the meantime boil separately all sorts of vegetables1 such as carrots1 cauliflower1 celery1 beans1 tomatoes1 c4 ,take out the pieces of eel1 but keep them hot1 whilst you pass the liquor which forms the sauce through a sieve and add the vegetables to this4 ,let them boil a little longer and arrange them in a dish2 place the pieces of eel on them and cover with the sauce4 ,it is most important that the eels should be served very hot4 ,any sort of fish will do as well for this dish4 ,no4 #dd4 ,filletti di ,pesce alla ,villeroy 7,fillets of ,fish7 ,ingredients3 ,fish1 flour1 butter1 ,villeroy4 ,any sort of fish will do1 turbot1 sole1 trout1 c4 ,cut it into fillets1 flour them over and cook them in butter in a covered stewpan2 then make a ,villeroy 7,no4 #ah71 dip the fillets into it and fry them in clarified butter4 ,no4 #de4 ,astachi all',italiana 7,lobster7 ,ingredients3 ,lobsters1 ,velute sauce1 ,marsala1 butter1 forcemeat of fish1 olives1 anchovy butter1 button mushrooms1 truffles1 lemon1 crayfish1 ,italian sauce4 ,two boiled lobsters are necessary4 ,cut all the flesh of one of the lobsters into fillets and put them into a saucepan with half a cup of ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b7 and half a glass of ,marsala1 and boil for a few minutes4 ,put a crouton of fried bread on an oval dish and cover it with a forcemeat of fish1 and on this place the whole lobster1 cover it with buttered paper1 and put it in a moderate oven just long enough to cook the forcemeat4 ,then make some quenelles of anchovy butter1 olives1 and button mushrooms1 mix them with ,italian sauce 7,no4 #f71 and garnish the dish with them1 and round the crouton arrange the fillets of lobster with a garnish of slices of truffle4 ,add a dessert-spoonful of crayfish butter and a good squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce1 and serve4 ,no4 #df4 ,baccala alla ,giardiniera 7,cod7 ,ingredients3 ,cod or hake1 carrots1 turnips1 butter1 herbs4 ,boil a piece of cod or hake and break it up into flakes1 then cut up two carrots and a turnip2 boil them gently1 and when they are half boiled drain and put them into a stewpan with an ounce of butter1 half a teacup of boiling water1 salt1 and herbs4 ,when they are well cooked add the fish and serve4 ,fillets of lemon soles may also be cooked this way4 ,no4 #dg4 ,triglie alla ,marinara 7,mullet7 ,ingredients3 ,mullet1 salt1 pepper1 onions1 parsley1 oil1 water4 ,cut a mullet into pieces and put it into a stewpan 7with the lid on71 with salt1 pepper1 a cut-up onion1 some chopped parsley1 half a wineglass of the finest olive oil and half a pint of water1 and in this cook the fish gently4 ,arrange the fillets on a dish1 pour a little of the broth over them1 and add the onion and parsley4 ,instead of mullet you can use cod1 hake1 whiting1 lemon sole1 c4 ,no4 #dh4 ,mullet alla ,tolosa ,ingredients3 ,mullet1 butter1 salt1 onions1 parsley1 almonds1 anchovies1 button mushrooms1 tomatoes4 ,cut off the fins and gills of a mullet1 put it in a fireproof dish with two ounces of butter and salt4 ,cut up a small bit of onion1 a sprig of parsley1 a few blanched almonds1 one anchovy1 and a few button mushrooms1 previously softened in hot water1 and put them over the fish and bake for twenty minutes ,then add two tablespoonsful of tomato sauce or puree1 and when cooked serve4 ,if you like1 use sole instead of mullet4 ,no4 #di4 ,mullet alla ,triestina ,ingredients3 ,mullet 7or sole or turbot71 butter1 salt half a lemon1 ,chablis4 ,put the fish in a fireproof dish with one and a half ounces of butter1 salt1 a squeeze of lemon juice1 and half a glass of ,chablis4 ,put it on a very1 slow fire and turn the fish when necessary4 ,when it is cooked serve in the dish4 ,no4 #ej4 ,whiting alla ,genovese ,ingredients3 ,whiting1 butter1 pepper1 salt1 bay leaf claret1 parsley1 onions1 garlic capers1 vinegar1 ,espagnole sauce1 mushrooms1 anchovies4 ,put one or two whiting into a stewpan with two ounces of butter1 salt1 pepper1 two bay leaves1 and a glass of claret or ,burgundy2 cook on a hot fire and turn the fish when necessary4 ,have ready beforehand a remoulade sauce made in the following manner3 ,put in a saucepan #a #a_/b ounces of butter1 half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley1 half an onion1 a clove of garlic 7with one cut71 four capers1 one anchovy1 all chopped up except the garlic4 ,then add three tablespoonsful of vinegar and reduce the sauce4 ,add two glasses of ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 and a little good stock2 boil it all up 7take out the garlic and bay leaves7 and pass through a sieve1 then pour it over the whiting4 ,boil it all again for a few minutes1 and before serving garnish with a few button mushrooms cooked separately4 ,the remoulade sauce will be much better if made some hours beforehand4 ,no4 #ea4 ,merluzzo in ,bianco 7,cod7 ,ingredients3 ,cod or whiting1 salt1 onions1 parsley1 cloves1 turnips1 marjoram1 chervil1 milk4 ,boil gently in a big cupful of salted water two onions1 one turnip1 a pinch of chopped parsley1 chervil1 and marjoram and four cloves4 ,after half an hour pass this through a sieve 7but first take out the cloves71 and add an equal quantity of milk and a little cream1 and in this cook the fish and serve with the sauce over it4 ,no4 #eb4 ,merluzzo in ,salamoia 7,cod7 ,ingredients3 ,cod1 hake1 whiting or red mullet1 onions1 parsley1 mint1 marjoram1 turnips1 mushrooms1 chervil1 cloves1 salt1 milk1 cream1 eggs4 ,put a salt-spoonful of salt1 two onions1 a little parsley1 marjoram1 mint1 chervil1 a turnip1 a mushroom1 and the heads of two cloves into a stewpan and simmer in a cupful of milk for half an hour1 then let all the ingredients settle at the bottom1 and pass the broth through a hair sieve1 and add to it an equal quantity of milk or cream1 and in it cook your fish on a slow fire4 ,when the fish is quite cooked1 pour off the sauce1 but leave a little on the fish to keep it warm2 reduce the rest in a bain-marie2 stir all the time1 so that the milk may not curdle4 ,thicken the sauce with the yolk of an egg1 and when about to serve pour it over the fish4 ,no4 #ec4 ,baccala in ,istufato 7,haddock7 ,ingredients3 ,haddock or lemon sole1 carrots1 anchovies1 lemon1 pepper1 butter1 onions1 flour1 white wine1 stock4 ,stuff a haddock 7or filleted lemon sole7 with some slices of carrot which have been masked with a paste made of pounded anchovies1 very little chopped lemon peel1 salt and pepper4 ,then fry an onion with two cuts across it in butter4 ,take out the onion as soon as it has become a golden colour1 flour the fish and put it in the butter1 and when it has been well fried on both sides pour a glass of ,marsala over it1 and when it is all absorbed add a cup of fowl or veal stock and let it simmer for half an hour1 then skim and reduce the sauce1 pour it over the fish and serve4 ,no4 #ed4 ,naselli con ,piselli 7,whiting7 ,ingredients3 ,whiting1 onions1 parsley1 peas1 tomatoes1 butter1 ,parmesan1 ,bechamel sauce4 ,cut a big whiting into two or three pieces and fry them slightly in butter1 add a small bit of onion1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and fry for a few minutes more4 ,then add some peas which have been cooked in salted water1 three tablespoonsful of ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c71 and three of tomato puree1 and cook all together on a moderate fire4 ,no4 #ee4 ,ostriche alla ,livornese 7,oysters7 ,ingredients3 ,oysters1 parsley1 shallot1 anchovies1 fennel pepper1 bread crumbs1 cream1 lemon4 ,detach the oysters from their shells and put then into china shells with their own liquor4 ,have ready a dessert-spoonful of parsley1 shallot1 anchovy and very little fennel1 add a tablespoonful of bread crumbs and a little pepper1 and mix the whole with a little cream4 ,put some of this mixture on each oyster1 and then bake them in a moderate fire for a quarter of an hour4 ,at the last minute add a squeeze of lemon juice to each oyster and serve on a folded napkin4 ,no4 #ef4 ,ostriche alla ,napolitana 7,oysters7 ,ingredients3 ,oysters1 parsley1 celery1 thyme1 pepper1 garlic1 oil1 lemon4 ,prepare the oysters as above1 but rub each shell with a little garlic4 ,put on each oyster a mixture made of chopped parsley1 a little thyme1 pepper1 and bread crumbs4 ,then pour a few drops of oil on each shell1 put them on the gridiron on an open fire1 grill for a few minutes1 and add a little lemon juice before serving4 ,no4 #eg4 ,ostriche alla ,veneziana 7,oysters7 ,ingredients3 ,oysters1 butter1 shallots1 truffles1 lemon juice1 forcemeat of fish4 ,take several oysters out of their shells and cook them in butter1 a little chopped shallot1 and their own liquor1 add a little lemon juice and then put in each of the deeper shells a layer of forcemeat made of fish and chopped truffles1 then an oyster or two1 and over this again another layer of the forcemeat1 cover up with the top shell and put them in a fish kettle and steam them4 ,then remove the top shell and arrange the shells with the oysters on a napkin and serve4 ,no4 #eh4 ,pesci diversi alla ,casalinga 7,fish7 ,ingredients3 ,any sort of fish1 celery1 parsley1 carrots1 garlic1 onion1 anchovies1 almonds1 capers1 mushrooms1 butter1 salt1 pepper1 flour1 tomatoes4 ,chop up a stick of celery1 a sprig of parsley1 a carrot1 an onion4 ,pound up an anchovy in brine 7well cleaned1 boned1 and scaled71 four shredded almonds1 three capers and two mushrooms4 ,put all this into a saucepan with one ounce of butter1 salt and pepper1 and fry for a few minutes1 then add a few spoonsful of hot water and a tablespoonful of flour and boil gently for ten minutes1 put in the fish and cook it until it is done4 ,if you like1 you may add a little tomato sauce4 ,no4 #ei4 ,pesce alla ,genovese 7,sole or ,turbot7 ,ingredients3 ,fish 7sole1 mullet1 or turbot71 butter1 salt1 onion1 garlic1 carrots1 celery1 parsley1 nutmeg1 pepper1 spice1 mushrooms1 tomatoes1 flour1 anchovies4 ,fry an onion slightly in one and a half ounces of butter1 add a small cut-up carrot1 half a stick of celery1 a sprig of parsley1 and a salt anchovy 7scaled71 which will dissolve in the butter4 ,into this put the fish cut up in pieces1 a pinch of spice and pepper1 and let it simmer for a few minutes1 then add two cut-up mushrooms1 a tomato mashed up1 and a little flour4 ,mix all together1 and cook for twenty minutes4 ,no4 #fj4 ,sogliole in ,zimino 7,sole7 ,ingredients3 ,sole1 onion1 beetroot1 butter1 celery1 tomato sauce or white wine4 ,cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in one ounce of butter1 then add some slices of beetroot 7well-washed and drained71 and a little celery cut up2 to this add fillets of sole or haddock1 salt and pepper4 ,boil on a moderate on the fish kettle4 ,when the beetroot is nearly cooked add two tablespoonsful of tomato puree and boil till all is well cooked4 ,instead of the tomato you may use half a glass of ,chablis4 ,no4 #fa4 ,sogliole al tegame 7,sole7 ,ingredients3 ,sole 7or mullet71 butter1 anchovies1 parsley1 garlic1 capers1 eggs4 ,put an ounce of butter and an anchovy in a saucepan together with a sole or mullet4 ,fry lightly for a few minutes1 then strew a little pepper and chopped parsley over it1 put in a clove of garlic with one cut1 and cook for half an hour1 but turn the fish over when one side is sufficiently done4 ,a few minutes before taking it off the fire add three capers and stir in the yolk of an egg at the last minute4 ,do not leave the garlic in more than five minutes4 ,no4 #fb4 ,sogliole alla ,livornese 7,sole7 ,ingredients3 ,sole1 butter1 garlic1 pepper1 salt1 tomatoes1 fennel4 ,fillet a sole and put it in a saute-pan with one and a half ounces of butter and a clove of garlic with one cut in it1 then sprinkle over it a little chopped fennel1 salt and pepper1 and let it cook for a few minutes4 ,turn over the fillets w hen they are sufficiently cooked on one side1 take out the garlic and cover the fish with a puree of tomatoes at the last4 ,no4 #fc4 ,sogliole alla ,veneziana 7,sole7 ,ingredients3 ,sole1 anchovies1 butter1 bacon1 onion1 stock1 ,chablis1 salt1 nutmeg1 parsley1 ,spanish olives1 one bay leaf4 ,fillet a sole and interlard each piece with a bit of anchovy4 ,tie up the fillets and put them in a saute-pan with two ounces of butter1 a slice of bacon or ham1 and a few small slices of onion4 ,cover half over with good stock and a glass of ,chablis1 and add salt1 a pinch of nutmeg1 a bunch of parsley1 and a bay leaf4 ,cover with buttered paper1 and cook on a slow fire for about an hour4 ,drain the fish1 pass the liquor through a sieve1 reduce it to the consistency of a thick sauce1 and pour it over the fish4 ,garnish each fillet with a ,spanish olive stuffed with anchovy4 ,no4 #fd4 ,sogliole alla ,parmigiana 7,sole7499 ,ingredients3 ,sole1 ,parmesan1 butter1 cream1 cayenne4 ,fillet a sole and wipe each piece with a clean cloth1 then place them in a fireproof dish1 and put a small piece of butter on each fillet4 ,then make a good white sauce1 and mix it with two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan and half a gill of cream4 ,cover the fish well with the sauce1 and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 99,lemon soles may be used in any of the above-named dishes4 ,no4 #fe4 ,salmone alla ,genovese 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 ,genoese sauce 7,no4 #e71 butter1 lemon4 ,boil a bit of salmon1 drain it1 take off the skin1 and mask it with a ,genoese sauce1 to which add a spoonful of the water in which the salmon has been boiled1 and at the last add a pat of fresh butter and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,no4 #ff4 ,salmone alla ,perigo 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 forcemeat of fish1 truffles1 butter1 ,madeira1 croutons of bread1 crayfish tails1 anchovy butter4 ,cut a bit of salmon into well shaped fillets1 and marinate them in lemon juice and a bunch of herbs for two hours1 wipe them1 put a layer of forcemeat of fish over each1 and decorate them with slices of truffle4 ,when put them into a well-buttered saute-pan with half a cup of stock and a glass of ,madeira or ,marsala1 cover with buttered paper1 and put them into a moderate oven for twenty minutes4 ,arrange the fillets in a circle on croutons of bread1 garnish the centre with crayfish tails and with truffles cut into dice1 a quarter of a pint of ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b71 and half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter4 ,glaze the fillets and serve4 ,no4 #fg4 ,salmone alla giardiniera 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 forcemeat of fish1 vegetables1 butter1 ,bechamel1 and ,espagnole sauce4 ,prepare the fillets as above 7,no4 #ff71 and put on each a layer of white forcemeat of fish4 ,cook a macedoine of vegetables separately1 and garnish each fillet with some of it1 then cook them in a covered stewpan ,put a crouton of bread in an entree dish and garnish it with cooked peas1 mixed with ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c71 stock1 and butter4 ,around this place the fillets of fish1 leaving the centre with the peas uncovered4 ,pour some rich ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 round the fillets and serve4 ,no4 #fh4 ,salmone alla ,farnese 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 oil1 lemon juice1 thyme1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 mayonnaise sauce1 lobster butter1 gelatine1 ,velute sauce1 olives1 anchovy butter1 white truffles1 mushrooms in oil1 crayfish4 ,boil a piece of salmon1 and when cold cut it into fillets and marinate them for two hours in oil1 lemon juice1 salt1 thyme pepper1 and nutmeg4 ,then make a good mayonnaise and add to it some lobster butter mixed with a little dissolved gelatine and ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b74 ,wipe the fillets and arrange them in a circle on a dish1 and pour the mayonnaise over them4 ,then decorate the border of the dish with aspic jelly1 and in the centre put some stoned ,spanish olives stuffed with anchovy butter1 truffles1 mushrooms in oil1 and crayfish tails4 ,no4 #fi4 ,salmone alla ,santa ,fiorentina 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 eggs1 mayonnaise1 parsley1 flour4 ,marinate a piece of boiled salmon for an hour2 take out the bone and cut the fish into fillets1 wipe them1 roll them in flour and dip them in eggs beaten up or in mayonnaise sauce1 and fry them a good colour4 ,arrange in a circle on the dish1 garnish with fried parsley1 and serve with ,dutch or mayonnaise sauce4 ,any fillets of fish may be cooked in this manner4 ,no4 #gj4 ,salmone alla ,francesca 7,salmon7 ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 butter1 onions1 parsley1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 stock1 ,chablis1 ,espagnole sauce 7,no4#a7 mushrooms1 anchovy butter1 lemon4 ,put a firm piece of salmon in a stewpan with one and a half ounces of butter1 an onion cut up1 a teaspoonful of chopped parsley 7blanched71 salt1 pepper1 very little nutmeg1 a cup of stock1 and a glass of ,chablis4 ,cook for half an hour over a hot fire1 turn the salmon occasionally1 and if it gets dry1 add a cup of ,espagnole sauce4 ,let it boil until sufficiently cooked1 and then put it on a dish4 ,into the sauce put four mushrooms cooked in white sauce1 half a teaspoonful of anchovy butter and a little lemon juice4 ,pour the sauce over the salmon and serve4 ,no4 #ga4 ,fillets of ,salmon in ,papiliotte ,ingredients3 ,salmon1 oil1 lemon juice1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 herbs4 ,cut a piece of salmon into fillets1 marinate them in oil1 lemon juice1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and herbs for two hours4 ,wipe and put them into paper souffle cases with a little oil1 butter1 and herbs4 ,cook them on a gridiron1 and serve with a sauce piquante made in the following manner3 ,half a pint of rich ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 and a dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century99 sauce1 warmed up in a bain-marie4 99,can be obtained at ,messrs ,lazenby's1 ,wigmoree ,street1 ,w4 ,beef1 ,mutton1 ,veal1 ,lamb1 ,c4 ,no4 #gb4 ,manzo alla ,certosina 7,fillet of ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,fillet of beef or rump steak1 bacon1 olive oil1 salt1 nutmeg1 anchovies1 herbs1 stock1 garlic4 ,put a piece of very tender rump steak or fillet of beef into a stewpan with two slices of fat bacon and three teaspoonsful of the finest olive oil2 season with salt and a tiny pinch of nutmeg2 let it cook uncovered1 and turn the meat over occasionally4 ,when it is nicely browned add an anchovy minced and mixed with chopped herbs1 and a small clove of garlic with one cut across it4 ,then cover the whole with good stock1 put the cover on the stewpan1 and when it is all sufficiently cooked1 skim the grease off the sauce1 pass it through a sieve1 and pour it over the beef4 ,leave the garlic in for five minutes only4 ,no4 #gc4 ,stufato alla ,florentina 7,stewed ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,beef1 mutton1 or veal1 onions1 rosemary1 ,burgundy1 tomatoes1 stock1 potatoes1 butter1 garlic4 ,cut up an onion and three leaves of rosemary1 fry them slightly in an ounce of butter1 then add meat 7beef1 mutton1 or veal71 cut into fair-sized pieces1 salt it and fry it a little1 then pour half a glass of ,burgundy over it1 and add two tablespoonsful of tomato conserve1 or better still1 fresh tomatoes in a puree4 ,cover up the stewpan and cook gently1 stir occasionally1 and add some stock if the stew gets too dry4 ,if you like to add potatoes1 cut them up1 put them in the stewpan an hour before serving1 and cook them with the meat4 ,a clove of garlic with one cut may be added for five minutes4 ,no4 #gd4 ,coscia di ,manzo al ,forno 7,rump ,steak7 ,ingredients3 ,rump steak1 ham1 salt1 pepper1 spice1 fat bacon1 onion1 stock1 white wine4 ,lard a bit of good rump steak with bits of lean ham1 and season it with salt1 pepper1 and a little spice1 slightly brown it in butter for a few minutes1 then cover it with three or four slices of fat bacon and put it into a stewpan with an onion chopped up1 a cup of good stock1 and half a glass of white wine2 cook with the cover on the stewpan for about an hour4 ,you may add a clove of garlic for ten minutes4 ,no4 #ge4 ,polpettine alla ,salsa ,piccante 7,beef ,olives7 ,ingredients3 ,beef steak1 butter1 onions1 stock1 sausage meat4 ,cut some thin slices of beef steak1 and on each place a little forcemeat of fowl or veal1 to which add a little sausage meat3 roll up the slices of beef and cook them with butter and onions1 and when they are well browned pour some stock over them1 and let them absorb it4 ,serve with a tomato sauce 7,no4 #aj71 or sauce piquante made with a quarter of a pint of rich ,espagnole 7,no4 #a71 and a dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century sauce 7see ,no4 #ga note74 ,no4 #gf4 ,stufato alla ,milanese 7,stewed ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,rump steak1 bacon1 ham1 salt1 pepper1 cinnamon1 cloves1 butter1 onions1 ,burgundy4 ,beat a piece of rump steak to make it tender and lard it well1 cut up some bits of fat bacon and dust them over with salt1 pepper1 and a tiny pinch of cinnamon1 and put them on the steak4 ,stick three cloves into the steak1 then put it into a stewpan1 add a little of the fat of the beef chopped up1 an ounce of butter1 an onion cut up1 and some bits of lean ham4 ,put in sufficient stock to cover the steak1 add a glass of ,burgundy1 and stew gently until it is cooked4 ,no4 #gg4 ,manzo ,marinato ,arrosto 7,marinated ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,beef1 salt1 larding bacon1 ,burgundy1 vinegar1 spices1 herbs1 flour4 ,beat a piece of rump steak1 or fillet to make it tender2 sprinkle it well with salt and some chopped herbs1 and leave it for an hour2 then lard it and marinate it as follows3 ,half a pint of red wine 7,australian ,harvest ,burgundy is best71 half a glass of vinegar1 a pinch of spice1 and a bouquet of herbs2 leave it in this for twenty-four hours then take it out1 drain it well sprinkle it with flour1 and roast it for twenty minutes before a clear fire1 braize it till quite tender1 then press and glaze it4 ,the thin end of a sirloin is excellent cooked this way4 ,serve cold4 ,no4 #gh4 ,manzo con sugo di ,barbabietole 7,fillet of ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,beef1 beetroot1 salt4 ,cut up three raw beetroots put them into an earthen ware pot and cover them with water4 ,keep them in some warm place1 and allow them to ferment for five1 six1 or eight days according to the season2 the froth at the top of the water will indicate the necessary fermentation4 ,the take out the pieces of beetroot1 skim off all the froth1 and into the fermented liquor put a good piece of tender rump steak or fillet with some salt4 ,braize for four hours and serve4 ,no4 #gi4 ,manzo in ,insalata 7,marinated ,beef7 ,ingredients3 ,beef1 oil1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 parsley1 capers1 mushrooms1 olives1 vegetables4 ,cook a fillet of beef 7or the thin end of a sirloin71 which has been previously marinated for two days in oil1 salt1 pepper1 vinegar1 and chopped parsley4 ,when cold press and glaze it1 garnish it with capers1 mushrooms preserved in vinegar or gherkins1 olives1 and any kind of vegetables marinated like the beef4 ,serve cold4 ,no4 #hj4 ,filetto di ,bue con ,pistacchi 7,fillets of ,beef with ,pistacchios7 ,ingredients3 ,fillet of beef1 oil1 salt1 flour1 pistacchio nuts1 gravy4 ,cut a piece of tender beef into little fillets1 and put a them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of olive oil and salt4 ,after they have cooked for a few minutes1 powder them with flour1 and strew over each fillet some chopped pistacchio nuts4 ,add a few spoonsful of very good boiling gravy1 and cook for another half-hour4 ,no4 #ha4 ,scalopini di ,riso 7,beef with ,risotto7 ,ingredients3 ,rump steak1 butter1 rice1 truffles1 tongue1 stock1 mushrooms4 ,slightly stew a bit of rump steak with bits of tongue and mushrooms2 let it get cold1 and cut it into scallops4 ,butter a pie dish1 and garnish the bottom of it with cooked tongue and slices of cooked truffle1 then over this put a layer of well-cooked and seasoned risotto 7,no4 #aij71 then a layer of the scallops of beef1 and then another layer of risotto4 ,heat in a bain-marie1 and turn out of the pie dish1 and serve with a very good sauce poured round it4 ,no4 #hb4 ,tenerumi alla ,piemontese 7,tendons of ,veal7 ,ingredients3 ,tendons of veal1 fowl forcemeat1 truffles1 risotto 7,no4 #aij71 a cock's comb1 tongue4 ,tendons of veal are that part of the breast which lies near the ribs1 and forms an opaque gristly substance4 ,partly braize a fine bit of this joint1 and press it between two plates till cold4 ,cut it up into fillets1 and on each spread a thin layer of fowl forcemeat1 and decorate with slices of truffle4 ,put the fillets into a stewpan1 cover them with very good stock1 and boil till the forcemeat and truffles are quite cooked4 ,prepare a risotto all',italiana 7,no4 #aij71 put it on a dish and decorate it with bits of red tongue cut into shapes1 and in the centre put a whole cooked truffle and a white cock's comb1 both on a silver skewer4 ,place the tendons of veal round the dish4 ,add a good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 and serve4 ,if you like1 leave out the risotto and serve the veal with ,espagnole sauce mixed with cooked peas and chopped truffle4 ,no4 #hc4 ,bragiuole di ,vitello 7,veal ,cutlets7 ,ingredients3 ,veal1 salt1 pepper1 butter1 bacon1 carrots1 flour1 ,chablis1 water1 lemon4 ,cut a bit of veal steak into pieces the size of small cutlets1 salt and pepper them1 and put them in a wide low stewpan4 ,add two ounces of butter1 a cut-up carrot1 and some bits of bacon also cut up4 ,when they are browned1 add a spoonful of flour1 half a glass of ,chablis1 and half a glass of water1 and cook on a slow fire for half an hour1 then take out the cutlets1 reduce the sauce1 and pass it through a sieve4 ,put it back on the fire and add an ounce of butter and a good squeeze of lemon1 and when hot pour it over the cutlets4 ,no4 #hd4 ,costolette alla ,manza 7,veal ,cutlets7 ,ingredients3 ,veal cutlets 7fowl or turkey cutlets71 forcemeat1 truffles1 mushrooms1 tongue1 parsley1 pasta marinate 7,no4 #ag74 ,cut a few horizontal lines along your cutlets1 and on each put a little veal or fowl forcemeat1 to which add in equal quantities chopped truffles1 tongue1 mushrooms1 and a little parsley4 ,over this put a thin layer of pasta marinate1 and fry the cutlets on a slow fire4 ,no4 #he4 ,vitello alla ,pellegrina 7,breast of ,veal7 ,ingredients3 ,breast of veal1 butter1 onions1 sugar1 stock1 red wine1 mushrooms1 bacon1 salt1 flour1 bay leaf4 ,roast a bit of breast of veal1 then glaze over two ,spanish onions with butter and a little sugar1 and when they are a good colour pour a teacup of stock and a glass of ,burgundy over them1 and add a few mushrooms1 a bay leaf1 some salt1 and a few bits of bacon4 ,when the mushrooms and onions are cooked1 skim off the fat and thicken the sauce with a little flour and butter fried together2 pour it over the veal and put the onions and mushrooms round the dish4 ,no4 #hf4 ,frittura ,piccata al ,marsala 7,fillet of ,veal7 ,ingredients3 ,veal1 butter1 ,marsala1 stock1 lemon1 bacon4 ,cut a tender bit of veal steak into small fillets1 cut off all the fat and stringy parts1 flour them and fry them in butter4 ,when they are slightly browned add a glass of ,marsala and a teacup of good stock1 and fry on a very hot fire1 so that the fillets may remain tender4 ,take them off the fire1 put a little roll of fried bacon on each1 add a squeeze of lemon juice1 and serve4 ,no4 #hg4 ,polpettine ,distese 7,veal ,olives7 ,ingredients3 ,veal steak1 butter1 bread1 eggs1 pistacchio nuts1 spice1 parsley4 ,cut some slices of veal steak very thin as for veal olives1 and spread them out in a well-buttered stewpan4 ,on each slice of veal put half a spoonful of the following mixture3 ,pound some crumb of bread and mix it with a whole egg2 add a little salt1 some pistacchio nuts1 herbs1 and parsley chopped up1 and a little butter4 ,roll up each slice of veal1 cover with a sheet of buttered paper1 put the cover on the stewpan and cook for three-quarters of an hour in two ounces of butter on a slow fire4 ,thicken the sauce with a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter fried together4 ,no4 #hh4 ,coste di ,vitello ,imboracciate 7,ribs of ,veal7 ,ingredients3 ,ribs of veal1 butter1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 bread crumbs1 parsley4 ,cut all the sinews from a piece of neck or ribs of veal1 cover the meat with plenty of butter and half cook it on a slow fire1 then let it get cold4 ,when cold1 egg it over and roll it in bread crumbs mixed with a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan2 fry in butter and serve with a garnish of fried parsley and a rich sauce4 ,a dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century sauce mixed with quarter of a pint of good thick stock makes a good sauce4 7,see ,no4 #bbf47 ,no4 #hi4 ,costolette di ,montone alla ,nizzarda 7,mutton ,cutlets7 ,ingredients3 ,mutton cutlets1 butter1 olives1 mushrooms1 cucumbers4 ,trim as many cutlets as you require1 and marinate them in vinegar1 herbs1 and spice for two hours4 ,before cooking wipe them well and then saute them in clarified butter1 and when they are well coloured on both sides and resist the pressure of the finger1 drain off the butter and pour four tablespoonsful of ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 with a teaspoonful of vinegar and six bruised pepper corns over them4 ,arrange them on a dish1 putting between each cutlet a crouton of fried bread1 and garnish with olives stuffed with chopped mushrooms and with slices of fried cucumber4 ,no4 #ij4 ,petto di ,castrato all',italiana 7,breast of ,mutton7 ,ingredients3 ,breast of mutton1 veal1 forcemeat1 eggs1 herbs1 spice1 ,parmesan4 ,stuff a breast of mutton with veal forcemeat mixed with two eggs beaten up1 herbs1 a little spice1 and a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 braize it in stock with a bunch of herbs and two onions4 ,serve with ,italian sauce 7,no4 #f74 ,no4 #ia4 ,petto di ,castrato alla ,salsa piccante 7,breast of ,mutton7 ,ingredients3 ,same as ,no4 #ij4 ,when the breast of mutton has been stuffed and cooked as above1 let it get cold and then cut it into fillets1 flour them over1 fry in butter1 and serve with tomato sauce piquante 7,no4 #aj71 or one dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century sauce in a quarter pint of good stock or gravy4 ,no4 #ib4 ,tenerumi d',agnello alla ,villeroy 7,tendons of ,lamb7 ,ingredients3 ,tendons of lamb1 eggs1 bread crumbs1 truffles1 butter1 stock1 ,villeroy sauce4 ,slightly cook the tendons 7the part of the breast near the ribs7 of lamb1 press them between two dishes till cold1 then cut into a good shape and dip them into a ,villeroy sauce 7,no4 #ah7 egg and bread-crumb1 and saute them in butter4 ,when about to serve1 put them in a dish with very good clear gravy4 ,a teaspoonful of chopped mint and a tablespoonful of chopped truffles mixed with the bread crumbs will be a great improvement4 ,no4 #ic4 ,tenerumi d' ,agnello alla ,veneziana 7,tendons of ,lamb7 ,ingredients3 ,tendons of lamb1 butter1 parsley1 onions1 stock4 ,fry the tendons of lamb in butter together with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and an onion4 ,serve with good gravy4 ,no4 #id4 ,costolette d' ,agnello alla ,costanza 7,lamb ,cutlets7 ,ingredients3 ,lamb cutlets1 butter1 stock1 cocks' combs1 fowl's liver1 mushrooms4 ,fry as many lamb cutlets as you require very sharply in butter1 drain off the butter and replace it with some very good stock or gravy4 ,make a ragout of cocks' combs1 bits of fowl's liver and mushrooms all cut up2 add a white sauce with half a gill of cream mixed with it1 and with this mask the cutlets1 and saute them for fifteen minutes4 ,tongue1 ,sweetbread1 ,calf's ,head1 ,liver1 ,sucking ,pig1 ,c4 ,no4 #ie4 ,timballo alla ,romana ,ingredients3 ,cold fowl1 game1 or sweetbread1 butter1 lard1 flour1 ,parmesan1 truffles1 macaroni1 onions1 cream4 ,make a light paste of two ounces of butter1 two of lard1 and half a pound of flour1 and put it in the larder for two hours4 ,in the meantime boil a little macaroni and let it get cold1 then line a plain mould with the paste1 and fill it with bits of cut-up fowl1 or game1 or sweetbread1 bits of truffle cut in small dice1 grated ,parmesan1 and a little chopped onion4 ,put these ingredients in alternately1 and after each layer add enough cream to moisten4 ,fill the mould quite full1 then roll out a thin paste for the top and press it well together at the edges to keep the cream from boiling out4 ,bake it in a moderate oven for an hour and a half1 turn it out of the mould1 and serve with a rich brown sauce4 ,decorate the top with bits of red tongue and truffles cut into shapes or with a little chopped pistacchio nut4 ,no4 #if4 ,timballo alla ,lombarda ,ingredients3 ,macaroni1 fowl or game1 eggs1 stock1 ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b71 tongue1 butter1 truffles4 ,butter a smooth mould1 then boil some macaroni1 but take care that it is in long pieces4 ,when cold1 take the longest bits and line the bottom of the mould1 making the macaroni go in circles2 and when you come to the end of one piece1 join on the next as closely as possible until the whole mould is lined2 paint it over now and then with white of egg beaten up2 then mask the whole inside with a thin layer of forcemeat of fowl1 which should also be put on with white of egg to make it adhere2 then cut up the bits of macaroni which remain1 warm them up in some good fowl stock and ,velute sauce much reduced1 a little melted butter1 some bits of truffle cut into dice1 tongue1 fowl1 or game also cut up in pieces4 ,when the mould is full1 put on another layer of forcemeat1 steam for an hour1 then turn out and serve with a very good brown sauce4 ,no4 #ig4 ,lingua alla ,visconti 7,tongue7 ,ingredients3 ,tongue1 glaze1 bread1 spinach1 white grapes1 port4 ,soak a smoked tongue in fresh water for forty-eight hours1 then boil it till it is tender4 ,peel off the skin1 cut the tongue in rather thick slices1 and glaze them4 ,prepare an oval border of fried bread1 cover it with spinach about two inches thick1 and on this arrange the slices of tongue4 ,fill in the centre of the dish with white grapes cooked in port or muscat4 ,no4 #ih4 ,lingua di ,manzo al ,citriuoli 7,tongue with ,cucumber7 ,ingredients3 ,ox tongue1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 parsley1 bacon1 veal1 carrots1 onions1 thyme1 bay leaves1 cloves1 stock4 ,gently boil an ox tongue until you can peel off the skin1 then lard it1 season it with salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 and chopped parsley1 and boil it with some bits of bacon1 ham1 veal1 a carrot1 an onion1 two bay leaves1 thyme and two cloves4 ,pour some good stock over it and let it simmer gently until it is cooked4 ,put the tongue on a dish and garnish it with slices of fried cucumber4 ,boil the cucumber for five minutes before you fry it1 to take away the bitter taste4 ,serve the tongue with a sauce piquante1 made with one dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century sauce to a quarter pint of good ,espangole sauce 7,no4 #a74 ,no4 #ii4 ,lingue di ,castrato alla ,cuciniera 7,sheep's ,tongues7 ,ingredients3 ,sheep's tongues1 bacon1 beef1 onions1 herbs1 spice1 eggs1 butter1 flour4 ,cook three or four sheep's tongues in good stock1 and add some slices of bacon1 bits of beef1 two onions1 a bunch of herbs1 and a pinch of spice4 ,let them get cold1 flour them and mask them with egg beaten up and fry quickly in butter4 ,serve with ,italian sauce 7,no4 #f7 ,no4 #ajj4 ,lingue di ,vitello all',italiana 7,calves' ,tongues7 ,ingredients3 ,calves' tongues1 salt1 butter1 stock1 water1 glaze1 potatoes1 ham1 truffles1 sauce piquante4 ,rub a good handful of salt into two or three calves' tongues and leave them for twenty-four hours1 then wash off all the salt and soak them in fresh water for two hours4 ,stew them gently till tender1 take them out1 skin and braize them in butter and good stock for half an hour4 ,let them get cold and cut them into slices about half an inch thick2 put the slices into a buttered saute-pan and cover them with a good thick glaze2 let them get quite hot and then arrange them on a border of potatoes1 and garnish each slice with round shapes of cooked ham and truffle4 ,fill the centre with any vegetables you like2 fried cucumber is excellent1 but if you use it do not forget to boil it for five minutes before you fry it to take away the bitter taste4 ,serve with a sauce piquante 7,no4 #aj1 or ,no4 #bbf74 ,no4 #aja4 ,porcelletto alla ,corradino 7,sucking ,pig7 ,ingredients3 ,sucking pig1 ham1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 truffles1 mushrooms1 garlic1 bay leaves1 coriander seeds1 pistacchio nuts1 veal forcemeat1 suet1 bacon1 herbs1 spice4 ,bone a sucking pig1 remove all the inside and fill it with a stuffing made of veal forcemeat mixed with a little chopped suet1 ham1 bacon1 herbs1 two tablespoonsful of finely chopped pistacchio nuts1 a pinch of spice1 six coriander seeds1 two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan1 cuttings of truffles and mushrooms all bound together with eggs4 ,sew the pig up and braize it in a big stewpan with bits of bacon1 a clove of garlic with two cuts1 a bunch of herbs and one bay leaf1 for half an hour4 ,then pour off the gravy1 cover the pig with well-buttered paper1 and finish cooking it in the oven4 ,garnish the top with vegetables and truffles cut into shapes1 slices of lemon and sprigs of parsley4 ,serve with a good sauce piquante 7,no4 #bbi74 ,do not leave the garlic in for more than ten minutes4 ,no4 #ajb4 ,porcelletto da ,latte in ,galantina 7,sucking ,pig7 ,ingredients3 ,sucking pig1 forcemeat of fowl1 bacon1 truffles1 pistacchio nuts1 ham1 lemon1 veal1 bay leaves1 salt1 carrots1 onions1 shallots1 parsley1 stock1 ,chablis1 gravy4 ,bone a sucking pig all except its feet1 but be careful not to cut the skin on its back4 ,lay it out on a napkin and line it inside with a forcemeat of fowl and veal about an inch thick1 over this put a layer of bits of marinated bacon1 slices of truffle1 pistacchio nuts1 cooked ham1 and some of the flesh of the pig1 then another layer of forcemeat until the pig's skin is fairly filled4 ,keep its shape by sewing it lightly together1 then rub it all over with lemon juice and cover it with slices of fat bacon1 roll it up and stitch it in a pudding cloth4 ,then put the bones and cuttings into a stewpan with bits of bacon and veal steak cut up1 two bay leaves1 salt1 a carrot1 an onion1 a shallot1 and a bunch of parsley4 ,into this put the pig with a bottle of white wine and sufficient stock to cover it1 and cook on a slow fire for three hours4 ,then take it out1 and when cold take off the pudding-cloth4 ,pass the liquor through a hair sieve1 and1 if necessary1 add some stock2 reduce and clarify it4 ,decorate the dish with this jelly and serve cold4 ,no4 #ajc4 ,ateletti alla ,sarda ,ingredients3 ,veal or fowl1 ox palates1 stock1 tongue1 truffles1 butter1 mushrooms1 sweetbread4 ,soak two ox palates in salted water for four hours1 then boil them until the rough skin comes off1 and cook them in good stock for six hours1 press them between two plates and let them get cold4 ,roll some forcemeat of veal or fowl in flour1 cut it into small pieces about the size of a cork1 boil them in salted water1 let them get cold and cut them into circular pieces4 ,cut the ox palates also into circular pieces the same size as the bits of forcemeat1 then thinner circles of cooked tongue and truffles4 ,string these pieces alternately on small silver skewers4 ,reduce to half its quantity a pint of ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b71 and add the cuttings of the truffles1 mushroom trimmings1 bits of sweetbread1 and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,let it get cold and then mask the atelets 7or skewers with the forcemeat1 c47 with it1 and fry them quickly in butter4 ,fry a large oval crouton of bread1 scoop out the centre and fill it with fried slices of cucumber and truffles boiled in a little ,chablis4 ,stick the skewers into the crouton and pour the sauce round it4 ,for a maigre dish use fillets of fish1 truffles1 mushrooms1 and ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c74 ,the cucumber should be boiled for five minutes before it is fried4 ,no4 #ajd4 ,ateletti alla ,genovese ,ingredients3 ,veal1 sweetbread1 calf's brains1 ox palates1 mushrooms1 fonds d'artichauds1 cocks' combs1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 bread crumbs4 ,cook two ox palates as in the last recipe1 then take equal quantities of veal steak1 sweetbread1 calf's brains1 equal quantities of mushrooms1 fonds d'artichauds1 and cocks' combs4 ,fry them all in butter except the palates1 but be careful to put the veal in first1 as it requires longer cooking2 the brains should go in last4 ,then put all these ingredients on a cutting board and add the palates 7cooked separately72 cut them all into pieces of equal size1 either round or square1 but keep the ingredients separate1 and string them alternately on silver skewers1 as in the last recipe4 ,then pound up all the cuttings and add a little crumb of bread soaked in stock1 the yolks of three eggs1 the whites of two well beaten up1 two dessert-spoonsful of grated ,parmesan1 salt to taste1 and chopped truffles4 ,mix all this well together and mask the atelets with it2 egg and bread crumb them and fry in butter4 ,when they are a good colour1 serve with fried parsley4 ,no4 #aje4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,sorrentina 7,calf's ,head7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's head1 veal1 sweetbread1 truffles1 mushrooms1 pistacchio nuts1 eggs1 herbs1 spice1 stock1 bacon1 ham4 ,boil a half calf's head well1 and when it is half cold1 bone it and fill it with a stuffing of veal1 the calf's brains1 sweetbread1 truffles1 mushrooms1 pistacchio nuts1 the yolks of two eggs1 herbs1 and a little spice4 ,then stitch it up and braize it in good stock1 with some slices of bacon1 ham1 and a bunch of herbs4 ,serve with brain sauce mixed with cream4 ,no4 #ajf4 ,testa di ,vitello con ,salsa ,napoletana 7,calf's ,head7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's head1 calf's liver1 bacon1 suet1 truffles1 almonds1 olives1 calf's brains1 capers1 spice1 coriander seeds1 herbs1 ham1 stock4 ,boil half a calf's head1 bone it and fill it with a stuffing made of four ounces of calf's liver1 well chopped up and pounded in a mortar2 two ounces of bacon1 one ounce of suet1 three truffles1 six almonds1 three olives1 six coriander seeds1 six capers1 the calf's brains1 a pinch of spice and a teaspoonful of chopped herbs4 ,roll up the head1 tie it up and put it into a stewpan with some bits of bacon1 ham1 and very good stock1 and stew it slowly4 ,serve with ,neapolitan sauce 7,no4#ab71 or with tomato sauce piquante 7,no4 #aj74 ,no4 #ajg4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,pompadour 7,calf's ,head7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's head1 calf's brains1 cream1 eggs1 truffles1 cinnamon1 stock1 butter1 ,parmesan4 ,boil and bone half a calf's head and fill it with a stuffing made of the calf's brains1 a gill of cream1 the yolks of two eggs1 two truffles cut up1 a little chopped ham1 and a tiny pinch of cinnamon4 ,boil it in good stock1 and when it is sufficiently cooked take it out and mask it all over with a mixture of butter1 yolk of egg1 and a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 then brown it in the oven and serve hot4 ,no4 #ajh4 ,testa di ,vitello alla ,sanseverino 7,calf's ,head7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's head1 sweetbread1 fowl's liver1 anchovies1 herbs1 capers1 garlic1 bacon1 ham1 ,malmsey or ,muscat4 ,boil and bone half a calf's head1 and fill it with a stuffing made of half a pound of sweetbread1 a fowl's liver1 two anchovies1 a teaspoonful of chopped herbs1 a few chopped capers1 and the calf's brains4 ,roll the head up1 stitch it together and braize it in half a tumbler of ,malmsey or ,australian ,muscat 7,burgoyne's71 half a cup of very good white stock1 some bits of ham and bacon1 and a clove of garlic with two cuts4 ,cook it gently for four hours and serve it with its own sauce4 ,do not leave the garlic in longer than ten minutes4 ,no4 #aji4 ,testa di ,vitello in ,frittata 7,calf's ,head7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's head1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 ham1 pepper1 butter1 croutons4 ,a good rechauffe' of calf's head may be made in the following manner3 ,after the head has been well boiled in good stock1 cut it into slices and mask these with a mixture of eggs well beaten up1 grated ,parmesan1 pepper1 and chopped ham4 ,fry in butter1 and garnish with fried parsley and fried croutons4 ,serve with a sauce made of a quarter of a pint of good ,bechamel 7,no4 #c7 and a dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century sauce4 ,no4 #aaj4 ,zampetti 7,calves' ,feet7 ,ingredients3 ,calves' or pigs' feet1 butter1 leeks or small onions1 parsley1 salt1 pepper1 stock1 tomatoes1 eggs1 cheese1 cinnamon4 ,blanch and bone two or more calves' or pigs' feet and put them into a stewpan with butter1 leeks1 or onions1 chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and a little stock4 ,let them boil till the liquid is somewhat reduced1 then add good meat gravy and two tablespoonsful of tomato puree1 and just before taking the stewpan off the fire1 add the yolks of two eggs beaten up1 a tablespoonful of grated cheese1 and a tiny pinch of cinnamon4 ,mix all well together and serve very hot4 ,no4 #aaa4 ,bodini ,marinati ,ingredients3 ,veal forcemeat1 truffles1 sweetbread1 mushrooms1 herbs1 flour1 pasta marinate 7,no4 #ag71 tongue1 butter4 ,make a mixture of truffles1 tongue1 sweetbread1 mushrooms1 and herbs1 all chopped up1 and add it to a forcemeat of veal1 the proportions being two-thirds veal forcemeat and the other ingredients one third4 ,mix this well and form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg1 flour them and mask them all over with pasta marinate 7,no4 #ag74 ,fry them in butter over a slow fire1 so that the balls may be well cooked through1 and when they are the right colour dry them in a napkin and serve very hot4 ,these bodini may be made with various ingredients2 they will be most delicate with a forcemeat of fowl and bits of brain mixed with herbs1 truffle1 cooked ham1 or tongue4 ,they are also excellent made with fish 7sole1 mullet1 turbot1 c471 either cooked or raw1 and marinated in lemon1 salt1 pepper1 oil1 nutmeg1 and parsley4 ,no4 #aab4 ,animelle alla ,parmegiana 7,sweetbread7 ,ingredients3 ,sweetbread1 bread crumbs1 ,parmesan1 butter4 ,blanch as many sweetbreads as you require1 and then roll them in bread crumbs mixed with grated ,parmesan1 salt1 and pepper2 wrap them up in buttered grease-proof paper and grill them4 ,when they are cooked1 take off the paper1 and serve with a good sauce in a sauce-boat4 ,no4 #aac4 ,animelle in ,cartoccio 7,sweetbread7 ,ingredients3 ,sweetbread1 butter1 herbs1 salt1 pepper1 bread crumbs1 ,parmesan1 lemons1 gravy1 tomatoes4 ,blanch a pound of sweetbread cuttings1 mix it with two ounces of melted butter1 chopped herbs1 salt1 and pepper1 and put it into paper souffle cases4 ,then strew over each some bread crumbs mixed with grated ,parmesan1 put the cases in the oven1 and when they are browned serve either with good gravy and lemon juice or with tomato sauce 7,no4 #i74 ,no4 #aad4 ,animelle all',italiana 7,sweetbread7 ,ingredients3 ,sweetbread1 butter1 onions1 salt1 herbs1 eggs1 glaze1 ,risotto 7,no4 #aij71 truffles1 quenelles of fowl1 ,espagnole sauce1 white sauce4 ,blanch as many sweetbreads as you require1 cut them into quarters and saute them in butter with a small onion cut up1 salt1 and a bunch of herbs4 ,then pour over them two cups of white sauce and cook gently for twenty minutes2 take out the sweetbreads and put them in a stewpan4 ,reduce the sauce1 and add to it a mixture made of the yolks of four eggs1 one and a half ounce of butter and a teaspoonful of glaze2 pass it through a sieve1 pour it over the sweetbreads1 and keep them warm in a bain-marie4 ,have ready a good ,risotto all',italiana 7,no4 #aij71 and put it into a border mould 7but first decorate the inside of the mould with slices of truffle71 put it in a moderate oven1 and when it is warm turn it out on a dish4 ,place the sweetbreads on the risotto and fill in the centre with quenelles of fowl and ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a74 ,no4 #aae4 ,animelle ,lardellate 7,sweetbread7 ,ingredients3 ,sweetbreads1 larding1 bacon1 stock1 a macedoine of vegetables4 ,blanch two sweetbreads1 lard them1 and cook them very slowly in good stock4 ,skim the stock and reduce it to a glaze to cover the sweetbreads4 ,then cut them into three or four pieces and arrange them round a dish1 but see that the larding is well glazed over4 ,in the centre of the dish place a piece of bread in the shape of a cup and fill this with a macedoine of vegetables4 ,no4 #aaf4 ,frittura di ,bottoni e di ,animelle 7,sweetbread and ,mushrooms7 ,ingredients3 ,sweetbread1 fresh button mushrooms1 flour1 bread crumbs1 salt1 pepper1 parsley1 butter1 lemons4 ,peel some button mushrooms and cut them in halves4 ,boil a sweetbread1 and cut it into pieces about the same size as the mushrooms1 flour1 egg1 and bread crumb them1 and fry in butter2 then serve with a garnish of fried parsley4 ,hand cut lemons with this dish4 ,no4 #aag4 ,cervello in ,fili serbe 7,calf's ,brains7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's brains1 stock1 butter1 parsley1 lemon4 ,boil half a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes then drain and pour a little melted butter and the juice of half a lemon over the brain2 add some chopped parsley fried for one minute in butter1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,no4 #aah4 ,cervello alla ,milanese 7,calf's ,brains7 ,ingredients3 ,calf s brains1 eggs1 bread crumbs1 butter4 ,scald a calf's brain and let it get cold4 ,wipe it on a cloth1 and get it as dry as possible1 then cut it into pieces about the size of a walnut1 egg and bread crumb them1 fry in butter1 and strew a little salt over them4 ,no4 #aai4 ,cervello alla ,villeroy 7,calf's ,brains7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's brains1 eggs1 flour1 mushrooms1 ,velute sauce4 ,scald a calf's brain1 and when cold cut it up and mask each piece with a thick sauce made of well-reduced ,velute 7,no4 #b71 mixed with chopped cooked mushrooms2 flour them over and dip them into the yolk of an egg1 and fry as quickly as possible4 ,no4 #abj4 ,frittura of ,liver and ,brains ,ingredients3 ,calf's liver and brains 7or lamb's or pig's fry71 butter1 ham1 flour1 puff pastry4 ,cut up half a pound of liver in small slices1 flour and fry them in butter or dripping1 together with a calf's or pig's or sheep's brain1 previously scalded and also cut up4 ,serve with bits of fried ham and little diamond-shaped pieces of puff pastry4 ,no4 #aba4 ,cervello in ,frittata ,montano 7,calf's ,brains7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's brains1 stock1 cream1 eggs1 spice1 ,parmesan1 butter4 ,boil a calf's brain in good stock for ten minutes1 let it get cold1 cut it up into little balls1 and mask each piece with a mixture made of half a gill of cream1 the yolks of two eggs1 a little spice1 a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 and the whites of two eggs well beaten up4 ,fry the balls in butter1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,you may mask and cook the calf's brain without cutting it up1 if you prefer it so4 ,no4 #abb4 ,marinata di ,cervello alla ,villeroy 7,calf's ,brains7 ,ingredients3 ,calf's brains1 stock1 ,bechamel sauce1 eggs1 butter1 lemon1 forcemeat of fowl1 flour4 ,boil a calf's or sheep's brain in good stock1 wipe it well1 and cut it up4 ,reduce a pint of ,bechamel 7,no4 #c71 and add to it the yolks of three eggs1 an ounce of butter1 and the juice of a lemon4 ,when it boils throw in the cut-up brain2 let it cool1 then take out the brain and form it into little balls about the size of a small walnut4 ,make a forcemeat of fowl1 and add a dessert-spoonful of flour to it1 and spread it out very thin on a paste-board1 and into this wrap the balls of brain1 each separately4 ,dip them into a pasta marinate 7,no4 #ag71 and fry them a golden brown4 ,no4 #abc4 ,minuta alla ,milanese 7,lamb's ,sweetbread7 ,ingredients3 ,lamb's sweetbread1 butter1 onions1 stock1 ,chablis1 salt1 lemon1 herbs1 cocks' combs1 fowls' livers4 ,cut up equal quantities of lamb's sweetbreads1 cocks' combs1 fowls' livers in pieces about the size of a filbert1 flour and fry them slightly in butter and a small bit of onion1 add half a glass of ,chablis1 a cup of good stock1 and a bunch of herbs4 ,reduce the sauce1 and thicken it with a tablespoonful of butter and flour fried together4 ,make a border of ,risotto all',italiana 7,no4 #aij71 and put the sweetbread1 c41 together with the sauce in the centre4 ,no4 #abd4 ,animelle al ,sapor di ,targone 7,lamb's ,fry7 ,ingredients3 ,lamb's fry1 ham1 garlic1 larding bacon1 spice1 herbs1 butter1 flour1 stock4 ,the lamb's fry should be nearly all sweetbread1 and very little liver4 ,lard each piece with bacon and ham1 and roll it in chopped herbs and a pinch of pounded spice4 ,then dip it in flour and braize in good stock1 to which add three ounces of butter1 some bits of bacon1 ham1 a bay leaf1 herbs1 and a clove of garlic with two cuts4 ,cook until the fry is well glazed over1 and serve with ,tarragon sauce 7,no4 #h74 ,do not leave the garlic in longer than ten minutes4 ,no4 #abe4 ,fritto ,misto alla ,villeroy ,ingredients3 ,cocks' combs1 calf's brains1 sweetbread1 stock1 truffles1 mushrooms1 ,villeroy1 eggs1 bread crumbs4 ,cook some big cocks' combs1 bits of calf s brains1 and sweetbread in good stock1 then drain them and marinate them slightly in lemon juice and herbs4 ,prepare a ,villeroy 7,no4 #ah71 and add to it cuttings of sweetbread1 brains1 truffles1 mushrooms1 c4 ,when it is cold1 mask the cocks' combs and other ingredients with it1 egg and bread-crumb them1 and fry them a golden brown4 ,no4 #abf4 ,fritto ,misto alla ,piemontese ,ingredients3 ,sweetbread1 calf s brains1 ox palate1 flour1 eggs1 ,chablis1 salt1 herbs butter4 ,make a thin paste with a tablespoonful of flour1 the yolks of two eggs1 two ,spoonsful of ,chablis1 and a little salt4 ,mix this up well1 and if it is too thick add a little water4 ,beat up the whites of the two eggs into a snow4 ,in the meantime blanch a sweetbread1 half a calf's brain1 and a few bits of cooked ox palate2 boil them all up with a bunch of herbs2 cut them into pieces about the size of a walnut1 and dip them into the paste so that each piece is well covered1 then dip them into the beaten-up whites of egg1 and fry them very quickly in butter4 ,this fry is generally served with a garnish of ,french beans1 which should not be cut up1 but half boiled1 then dried1 floured over and fried together with the other ingredients4 ,the ox palates should be boiled for at least six hours before you use them in this dish4 ,no4 #abg4 ,minuta di ,fegatini 7,ragout of ,fowls' ,livers7 ,ingredients3 ,fowls' or turkeys' livers1 flour1 butter1 parsley1 onions1 salt1 pepper1 stock1 ,chablis4 ,cut the livers in half1 flour them1 and fry lightly in butter with chopped parsley1 very little chopped onion1 salt and pepper1 then add a quarter pint of boiling stock and half a glass of ,chablis1 and cook until the sauce is somewhat reduced4 ,you can also cook the livers simply in good meat gravy1 but in this case they should not be floured4 ,serve with a border of macaroni 7,no4 #ahc71 or ,risotto 7,no4 #aij71 or ,polenta 7,no4 #ahg74 ,no4 #abh4 ,minuta alla ,visconti 7,chickens' ,livers7 ,ingredients3 ,fowls' livers1 eggs1 cheese1 butter1 cream1 cayenne pepper4 ,braize two fowls' livers in butter1 then pound them up1 and mix with a little cream1 a tablespoonful of grated cheese and a dust of cayenne4 ,spread this rather thickly over small squares of toast1 and keep them hot whilst you make a custard with half an ounce of butter1 an egg well beaten up1 and a tablespoonful of cheese4 ,stir it over the fire till thick and then spread it on the hot toast4 ,serve very hot4 ,this makes a good savoury4 ,no4 #abi4 ,croutons alla ,principesca ,ingredients3 ,croutons1 tongue1 sweetbread1 truffles1 fowl or game1 ,velute sauce1 stock1 eggs1 butter4 ,fry a bit of bread in butter till it is a light brown colour1 then cut it into heart-shaped pieces4 ,prepare a ragout with bits of tongue1 sweetbread1 fowl or game1 truffles1 two or three spoonsful of well-reduced ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b71 and two or three of reduced gravy4 ,put a spoonful of the ragout in each crouton1 and over it a layer of fowl forcemeat half an inch thick2 trim the edges neatly1 glaze them with the yolk of eggs beaten up1 and put them in a buttered fireproof dish in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,then glaze them with reduced stock and serve hot4 ,for a maigre dish use fish for the ragout and forcemeat4 ,no4 #acj4 ,croutons alla ,romana ,ingredients3 ,bread1 fowl forcemeat1 tongue1 truffles1 herbs1 cream1 stock1 butter1 flour1 eggs4 ,cut a bit of crumb of bread into round or square shapes1 and on each put a spoonful of fowl or rabbit forcemeat1 a little chopped tongue1 and a slight flavouring of chopped herbs2 cover with a slice of bread the same shape as the underneath piece1 put them in a buttered fireproof dish1 and moisten them well with cream1 butter1 and stock4 ,cook until all the liquor is absorbed1 but turn them over so that both sides may be well cooked1 then flour and dip them into beaten-up eggs2 fry them a good colour and serve very hot4 ,for a maigre dish use forcemeat of fish or lobster1 and more cream instead of stock4 ,fowl1 ,duck1 ,game1 ,hare1 ,rabbit1 c4 ,no4 #aca4 ,soffiato di ,cappone 7,fowl ,souffle7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 ,bechamel1 stock1 semolina flour1 potatoes1 salt1 eggs1 butter1 smoked tongue or ham4 ,prepare a puree of fowl or turkey and a small quantity of grated tongue or ham1 and whilst you are pounding the meat add some good gravy or stock4 ,then make a ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c7 and add two table-spoonsful of semolina flour1 a boiled potato and salt to taste1 boil it up and add the puree of fowl1 then let it get nearly cold1 add yolks of eggs and the white beaten up into a snow4 7,for one pint of the puree use the yolks of three eggs47 ,pour the whole into a buttered souffle case1 and half an hour before serving put it in a moderate oven and serve hot4 ,you can use game instead of fowl1 and serve in little souffle cases4 ,no4 #acb4 ,pollo alla ,fiorentina 7,chicken7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 butter1 vegetables1 rice or macaroni1 peppercorns1 stock1 ham1 tomatoes1 bay leaves1 onions1 cloves1 ,liebig4 ,roll up a fowl in buttered paper and put it in the oven in a fireproof dish with all kinds of vegetables and a few peppercorns4 ,leave it there for about two hours1 then put the fowl and vegetables into two quarts of good stock and let it simmer for one hour2 serve on well-boiled rice or macaroni and pour the following sauce over it4 ,sauce3 ,two pounds tomatoes1 one big cup of good stock1 a quarter pound of chopped ham1 three bay leaves1 one onion stuck with cloves1 one teaspoonful of ,liebig4 ,simmer an hour and a half4 ,no4 #acc4 ,pollo all',oliva 7,chicken7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 onions1 celery1 salt1 parsley1 carrots1 butter1 stock1 olives1 tomatoes4 ,cut up half an onion1 a stick of celery1 a sprig of parsley1 a carrot1 and cook them all in a quarter pound of butter4 ,into this put a fowl cut up and let it act brown all over1 turn when necessary and then baste it with boiling stock4 ,add four ,spanish olives cut up and four others pounded in a mortar1 eight whole olives and three tablespoonsful of tomato puree reduced1 and when the fowl is well cooked pour the sauce over it4 ,no4 #acd4 ,pollo alla ,villereccia 7,chicken7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 butter1 flour1 stock1 bacon1 ham1 mushrooms1 onions1 cloves1 eggs1 cream1 lemons4 ,cut up a fowl into quarters and put it into a saucepan with three ounces of butter and a tablespoonful of flour ,put it on the fire1 and when it is well browned add half a pint of stock1 bits of bacon and ham1 butter1 three mushrooms 7previously boiled71 an onion stuck with three cloves4 ,when this is cooked skim off the grease1 pass the sauce through a sieve1 and add the yolks of two eggs mixed with two tablespoonsful of cream4 ,lastly1 add a squeeze of lemon juice to the sauce and pour it over the fowl4 ,no4 #ace4 ,pollo alla ,cacciatora 7,chicken7 ,ingredients3 ,the same as ,no4 #acd and tomatoes4 ,cook the fowl exactly as above1 but add either a puree of tomatoes or tomato sauce4 ,no4 #acf4 ,pollastro alla ,lorenese 7,fowl7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 butter1 parsley1 lemon1 small onions1 bread crumbs4 ,cut up a fowl and put it into a frying pan with two ounces of butter1 one onion cut up and a sprig of chopped parsley1 salt and pepper2 put it on the fire and cook it1 but turn the pieces several times3 then take them out and roll them whilst hot in bread crumbs1 and fry them4 ,serve with cut lemons4 ,no4 #acg4 ,pollastro in ,fricassea al ,burro 7,fowl7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 butter1 fat bacon1 ham1 mushrooms1 truffles1 herbs1 spice1 gravy4 ,cut up a fowl and cook it in a fricassee of butter1 bacon1 ham1 herbs1 mushrooms1 truffles1 spice1 and good gravy or stock4 ,serve in its own gravy4 ,no4 #ach4 ,pollastro in istufa di ,pomidoro 7,braized ,fowl7 ,ingredients3 ,fowl1 bacon1 ham1 bay leaf1 spice1 garlic1 ,burgundy1 tomatoes4 ,braize a fowl with bits of fat bacon1 ham1 a bay leaf1 a clove of garlic with one cut in it1 a pinch of spice1 and a glass of ,burgundy4 ,only leave the garlic in for five minutes4 ,when cooked serve with tomato sauce 7,no4 #i74 ,no4 #aci4 ,cappone con ,riso 7,capon with ,rice7 ,ingredients3 ,capon1 veal forcemeat1 fat bacon1 stock1 rice1 truffles1 mushrooms1 cocks' combs1 kidneys or fowls' liver1 supreme sauce1 milk1 ,chablis4 ,stuff a fine capon with a good firm forcemeat made of veal1 tongue1 ham1 and chopped truffles2 cover it with larding bacon2 tie it up in buttered paper1 and cook it in very good white stock4 ,in the meantime boil four ounces of rice in milk till quite stiff1 mix in some chopped truffles1 and make ten little timbales of it4 ,take out the capon when it is sufficiently cooked and place it on a dish2 garnish it with cooked mushrooms1 cocks' combs1 kidneys1 or fowls' livers1 and pour a sauce supreme 7,no4 #af7 over it2 round the dish place the timbales of rice1 and between each put a whole truffle cooked in white wine4 ,serve a sauce supreme in a sauce bowl4 ,no4 #adj4 ,dindo ,arrosto alla ,milanese 7,roast ,turkey7 ,ingredients3 ,turkey1 sausage meat1 prunes1 chestnuts1 a pear1 butter1 ,marsala1 salt1 rosemary1 bacon1 carrot1 onion1 turnip1 garlic4 ,blanch for seven or eight minutes three prunes1 quarter of a pound of sausage meat1 three tablespoonsful of chestnut puree1 two small slices of bacon1 half a cooked pear1 and saute them in butter2 chop up the liver and gizzard of the turkey1 mix them with the other ingredients1 and add half a glass of ,marsala2 use this as a stuffing for the turkey1 and first braize it for three quarters of an hour with salt1 butter1 a blade of rosemary1 bits of fat bacon1 a carrot1 a turnip1 an onion1 three cloves1 and a clove of garlic with a cut2 then roast it before a clear fire for about twenty minutes2 put it back into the sauce till it is ready to serve4 ,only leave the garlic in ten minutes4 ,no4 #ada4 ,tacchinotto all',istrione 7,turkey ,poult7 ,ingredients3 ,a turkey poult1 ham1 mace1 bay leaves1 lemons1 water1 salt1 onions1 parsley1 celery1 carrots1 ,chablis4 ,truss a turkey poult1 and cover it all over with slices of ham or bacon1 put two bay leaves and four slices of lemon on it1 and sprinkle with a small pinch of mace1 then sew it up tight in a dishcloth1 and stew it in good stock1 salt1 an onion1 parsley1 a stick of celery1 a carrot1 and a pint of ,chablis2 cook for an hour1 take it out of the cloth1 and pour a good rich sauce over it4 ,it is also good cold with aspic jelly4 ,no4 #adb4 ,fagiano alla ,napoletana 7,pheasant7 ,ingredients3 ,pheasant1 macaroni1 gravy1 butter1 ,parmesan1 tomatoes4 ,lard a pheasant1 roast it1 and serve it on a layer of macaroni cooked with good reduced gravy1 two ounces of butter1 a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 and a puree of tomatoes4 ,serve with ,neapolitan sauce 7,no4 #ab7 in a sauce bowl4 ,no4 #adc4 ,fagiano alla ,perigo 7,pheasant7 ,ingredients3 ,pheasant1 butter1 truffles1 larding bacon1 ,madeira4 ,make a mixture of three tablespoonsful of chopped truffles1 three ounces of butter and a little salt1 and with this stuff a pheasant4 ,then cover it with slices of fat bacon and keep it in a cool place till next day4 ,a few hours before serving1 roast the pheasant and baste it well with melted butter and a wine-glass of ,madeira or ,marsala4 ,make a crouton of fried bread the shape of your dish1 and over this put a ,layer of forcemeat of fowl and a number of small fowl quenelles2 cover them with buttered paper1 then put the dish in the oven for a few minutes so as to settle the forcemeat4 ,when the pheasant is cooked1 place it on the crouton and garnish it with slices of truffle which have been previously cooked in ,madeira1 and serve with a ,perigord sauce4 ,no4 #add4 ,anitra ,selvatica 7,wild ,duck7 ,ingredients3 ,wild duck1 butter1 fowls' livers1 ,marsala1 gravy1 turnips1 carrots1 parsley1 mushrooms4 ,cut a wild duck into quarters and put it into a stewpan with two fowls' livers cut up and fried in butter4 ,when the pieces of duck are coloured on both sides1 pour off the butter1 and in its place pour a glass of ,marsala1 a cup of stock1 and a cup of ,espagnole sauce 7,no4#a71 and cook gently for ten minutes4 ,in the meantime shape and blanch six young turnips and as many young carrots1 put them into a stewpan1 and on the top of them put the pieces of wild duck1 liver1 c4 ,pass the liquor through a sieve and pour it over the wild duck1 add a bunch of parsley and other herbs and five little mushrooms cut up1 and cook on a slow fire for half an hour4 ,skim the sauce1 pass it through a sieve and add a pinch of sugar4 ,put the pieces of wild duck in an entree dish1 add the vegetables1 c41 pour the sauce over and serve4 ,no4 #ade4 ,perniciotti alla ,gastalda 7,partridges7 ,ingredients3 ,partridges1 cauliflower1 bacon1 sausage1 fowls' livers1 carrots1 onions herbs1 stock1 gravy1 butter1 ,madeira4 ,cut a cauliflower into quarters1 blanch for a few minutes1 drain1 and put it into a saucepan with some bits of bacon4 ,let it drain on paper till dry1 then arrange the bits in a circle in a deep stewpan1 and in the centre put a small bit of sausage1 the livers of the partridges1 a fowl's liver cut up1 a carrot1 an onion1 and a bunch of herbs4 ,cover about three-quarters high with good stock and gravy1 put butter on the top and boil gently for an hour2 then take out the sausage1 replace it by two or three partridges1 and simmer for three-quarters of an hour4 ,in the meantime cut a sausage in thin slices and line a mould with it4 ,when the birds are cooked1 take them out1 drain and cut them up1 and fill the mould with alternate layers of partridge and cauliflower1 and steam for half an hour4 ,five minutes before serving turn the mould over on a plate1 but do not take it off1 so as to let all the grease drain off4 ,cut up the fowls' and partridges' livers1 make them into scallops and glaze them4 ,wipe off all the grease round the mould2 take it off1 garnish the dish with the scallops of liver and serve hot with an ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 reduced1 and add a glass of ,madeira or ,marsala1 and a glass of essence of game to it4 ,this is an excellent way of cooking an old partridge or pheasant4 ,no4 #adf4 ,beccaccini alla ,diplomatica 7,snipe7 ,ingredients3 ,snipe1 ham1 larding bacon1 herbs1 ,marsala1 croutons1 truffles1 cocks' combs1 mushrooms1 sweetbread1 tongue4 ,truss fourteen snipe and cook them in a mirepoix made with plenty of ham1 fat bacon1 herbs1 and a wine glass of ,marsala4 ,when they are cooked pour off the sauce1 skim off the grease and reduce it4 ,take the two smallest snipe and make a forcemeat of them by pounding them in a mortar with the livers of all the snipe1 then dilute this with reduced ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 and add it to the first sauce4 ,cut twelve croutons of bread just large enough to hold a snipe each1 and fry them in butter4 ,add some chopped herbs and truffles to the forcemeat1 spread it on the croutons1 and on each place a snipe and cover it with a bit of fat bacon and buttered paper4 ,put them in a moderate oven for a few minutes1 arrange them on a dish1 and pour some of their own sauce over them4 ,garnish the spaces between the croutons with white cocks' combs1 mushrooms1 and truffles4 ,the truffles should be scooped out and filled with a little stuffing of sweetbread1 tongue1 and truffles mixed with a little of the sauce of the snipe4 ,serve the rest of the sauce in a sauce-boat4 ,no4 #adg4 ,piccioni alla minute 7,pigeons7 ,ingredients3 ,pigeons1 butter1 truffles1 herbs1 fowls' livers1 sweetbread1 salt1 flour1 stock1 ,burgundy4 ,prepare two pigeons and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter1 two truffles cut up1 two fowls' livers1 half-pound of sweetbread cuttings 7boiled71 a bunch of herbs and salt4 ,let them brown a little1 then add a dessert-spoonful of flour mixed with stock1 and half a glass of ,burgundy1 and stew gently for half an hour4 ,no4 #adh4 ,piccioni in ,ripieno 7,stuffed ,pigeons7 ,ingredients3 ,pigeons1 sweetbread1 parsley1 onions1 carrots1 salt1 pepper1 bacon1 stock1 ,chablis1 fowls' livers1 and gizzards4 ,cut up a sweetbread1 a fowl's liver and gizzard1 an onion1 a sprig of parsley1 and add salt and pepper4 ,put this stuffing into two pigeons1 tie larding bacon over them1 and put them into a stewpan with a glass of ,chablis1 a cup of stock1 an onion1 and a carrot4 ,when cooked pass the sauce through a sieve1 skim it1 add a little more sauce1 and pour it over the pigeons4 ,no4 #adi4 ,lepre in istufato 7,stewed ,hare7 ,ingredients3 ,hare1 butter1 onions1 garlic1 marjoram1 celery1 ham1 salt1 ,chablis1 stock1 mushrooms1 spice1 tomatoes4 ,put into a stewpan three ounces of butter1 an onion cut up1 a clove of garlic with a cut across it1 a sprig of marjoram1 and a little cut-up ham4 ,fry these slightly1 put the hare cut up into the same stewpan1 and let it get brown4 ,then pour a glass of ,chablis and a glass of stock over it2 add a little tomato sauce or a mashed-up tomato1 a pinch of spice1 and a few mushrooms2 take out the garlic and let the rest stew gently for an hour or more4 ,keep the cover on the stewpan1 but stir the stew occasionally4 ,no4 #aej4 ,lepre ,agro-dolce 7,hare7 ,ingredients3 ,hare1 vinegar butter1 onion1 ham1 stock salt1 sugar1 chocolate1 almonds1 raisins4 ,cut up a hare and wash the pieces in vinegar1 then cook them in butter1 chopped onion1 some bits of ham stock and a little salt4 ,half fill a wine-glass with sugar and add vinegar until the glass is three-quarters full mix the vinegar and sugar well together1 and when the hare is browned all over and nearly cooked1 pour the vinegar over it and add a dessert spoonful of grated chocolate a few shredded almonds and stoned raisins4 ,mix all well together and cook for a few minutes more4 ,this is a favourite ,roman dish4 ,no4 #aea4 ,coniglio alla ,provenzale 7,rabbit7 ,ingredients3 ,rabbit1 flour butter1 stock1 ,chablis1 parsley onion1 spice1 mushrooms4 ,cut up a rabbit1 wipe the pieces1 flour them over1 and fry them in butter until they are coloured all over4 ,then pour a glass of ,chablis over them1 add some chopped parsley1 half an onion1 three mushrooms1 salt1 and a cup of good stock4 ,cover the stewpan and cook on a moderate fire for about three-quarters of an hour4 ,should the stew act too dry1 add a spoonful of stock occasionally4 ,no4 #aeb4 ,coniglio arrostito alla ,corradino 7,roast ,rabbit7 ,ingredients3 ,rabbit1 pig's fry1 butter1 salt1 pepper1 fennel1 bay leaf1 onions4 ,make a stuffing of pig's fry 7previously cooked in butter71 salt1 pepper1 fennel1 an onion1 all chopped up1 and a bay leaf4 ,with this stuff a rabbit well and braize it for half an hour1 then roast it before a brisk fire and baste it well with good gravy4 ,if you like1 put in a clove of garlic with one cut whilst it is being braized1 but only leave it in for five minutes4 ,serve with ham sauce 7,salsa di prosciutto1 ,no4 #g47 ,a fowl may be cooked in this way4 ,no4 #aec4 ,coniglio in salsa ,piccante 7,rabbit7 ,ingredients3 ,rabbit1 butter1 flour1 celery1 parsley1 onion1 carrot1 mushrooms1 cloves1 spices1 ,burgundy1 stock1 capers1 anchovies4 ,cut up a rabbit1 wipe the pieces well on a dishcloth1 flour them over and put them into a frying-pan with two ounces of butter and fry for about ten minutes4 ,then add half a stick of celery1 parsley1 an onion1 half a carrot1 and three mushrooms1 all cut up1 three cloves1 a pinch of spice and salt1 a glass of ,burgundy1 and the same quantity of stock2 cover the stewpan and cook for half an hour1 then put the pieces of rabbit into another stewpan and pass the liquor through a sieve2 press it well with a wooden spoon1 so as to get as much through as possible1 pour this over the rabbit and add four capers and an anchovy in brine pounded in a mortar1 mix all well together1 let it simmer for a few minutes1 then serve hot with a garnish of croutons fried in butter4 ,vegetables ,no4 #aed4 ,asparagi alla salsa ,suprema 7,asparagus7 ,ingredients3 ,asparagus1 butter1 nutmeg1 salt1 supreme sauce 7,no4 #af7 gravy1 lemon1 ,parmesan4 ,cut some asparagus into pieces about an inch long and cook them in boiling water with salt1 then drain and put them into a saute pan with one and a half ounce of melted butter and sautez for a few minutes1 but first add salt1 a pinch of nutmeg1 and a dust of grated cheese4 ,pour a little supreme sauce over them1 and at the last add a little gravy1 one ounce of fresh butter1 and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,no4 #aee4 ,cavoli di ,bruxelles alla ,savoiarda 7,brussels ,sprouts7 ,ingredients3 ,brussels sprouts1 butter1 pepper1 stock1 ,bechamel sauce1 ,parmesan1 croutons4 ,take off the outside leaves of half a pound of ,brussels sprouts1 wash and boil them in salted water4 ,let them get cool1 drain1 and put them in a pie-dish with two ounces of fresh butter1 a quarter pint of very good stock1 a little pepper1 and a dust of grated ,parmesan4 ,when they are well glazed over1 pour off the sauce1 season with three tablespoonsful of boiling ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c71 and serve with croutons fried in butter4 ,no4 #aef4 ,barbabietola alla ,parmigiana 7,beetroot7 ,ingredients3 ,beetroot1 white sauce1 ,parmesan1 ,cheddar4 ,boil a beetroot till it is quite tender1 peel it1 cut into slices1 put it in a fireproof dish1 and cover it with a thick white sauce4 ,strew a little grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar over it4 ,put it in the oven for a few minutes1 and serve very hot in the dish4 ,no4 #aeg4 ,fave alla ,savoiarda 7,beans7 ,ingredients3 ,beans1 stock1 a bunch of herbs1 ,bechamel sauce4 ,boil one pound of broad beans in salt and water1 skin and cook them in a saucepan with a quarter pint of reduced stock and a hunch of herbs4 ,drain them1 take out the herbs1 and season with two glasses of ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c74 ,no4 #aeh4 ,verze alla ,capuccina 7,cabbage7 ,ingredients3 ,cabbage or greens1 anchovies1 salt1 butter1 parsley1 gravy1 ,parmesan4 ,boil two cabbages in a good deal of water1 and cut them into quarters4 ,fry two anchovies slightly in butter and chopped parsley1 add the cabbages1 and at the last three tablespoonsful of good gravy1 two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan1 salt and pepper1 and when cooked1 serve4 ,no4 #aei4 ,cavoli fiodi alla ,lionese 7,cauliflower7 ,ingredients3 ,cauliflower1 butter1 onions1 parsley1 lemon1 ,espagnole sauce4 ,blanch a cauliflower and boil it1 but not too much4 ,cut up a small onion1 fry it slightly in butter and chopped parsley1 and when it is well coloured1 add the cauliflower and finish cooking it1 then take it out1 put it in a dish1 pour a good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 over it1 and add a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,no4 #afj4 ,cavoli fiodi fritti 7,cauliflower7 ,ingredients3 ,cauliflower or broccoli1 gravy1 lemon1 salt1 eggs1 butter4 ,break up a broccoli or cauliflower into little bunches1 blanch them1 and put them on the fire in a saucepan with good gravy for a few minutes1 then marinate them with lemon juice and salt1 let them get cold1 egg them over1 and fry in butter4 ,no4 #afa4 ,cauliflower alla ,parmigiana ,ingredients3 ,cauliflower1 butter1 ,parmesan1 ,cheddar1 ,espagnole1 stock4 ,boil a cauliflower in salted water1 then sautez it in butter1 but be careful not to cook it too much4 ,take it off the fire and strew grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar over it then put in a fireproof dish and add a good spoonful of stock and one of ,espagnole 7,no4 #a71 and put it in the oven for ten minutes4 ,no4 #afb4 ,cavoli ,fiori ,ripieni ,ingredients3 ,cauliflower1 butter1 stock1 forcemeat of fowl1 tongue1 truffles1 mushrooms1 parsley1 ,espagnole1 eggs4 ,break up a cauliflower into separate little bunches1 blanch them1 and put them in butter1 and a quarter pint of reduced stock4 ,make a forcemeat of fowl1 add bits of tongue1 truffles1 mushrooms1 and parsley1 all cut up small and mixed with butter4 ,with this mask the pieces of cauliflower1 egg and breadcrumb them1 fry like croquettes1 and serve with a good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a74 ,no4 #afc4 ,sedani alla ,parmigiana 7,celery7 ,ingredients3 ,celery1 stock1 ham1 salt1 pepper1 ,cheddar1 ,parmesan1 butter1 gravy4 ,cut all the green off a head of celery1 trim the rest4 ,cut it into pieces about four inches long1 blanch and braize them in good stock1 ham1 salt1 and pepper4 ,when cooked1 drain and arrange them on a dish1 sprinkle with grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar1 and add one and a half ounce of butter1 then put them in the oven till they have taken a good colour1 pour a little good gravy over them and serve4 ,no4 #afd4 ,sedani fritti all',italiana 7,celery7 ,ingredients3 ,same as ,no4 #afc1 eggs1 bread crumbs1 tomatoes4 ,prepare a head of celery as above1 and cut it up into equal pieces4 ,blanch and braize as above1 and when cold egg and breadcrumb and sautez in butter4 ,serve with tomato sauce4 ,no4 #afe4 ,cetriuoli alla ,parmigiana 7,cucumber7 ,ingredients3 ,cucumber1 butter1 cheese1 gravy1 salt1 cayenne4 ,cut a cucumber into slices about half an inch thick1 boil for five minutes in salted water1 drain in a sieve1 and fry slightly in melted butter1 then strew a little grated ,parmesan over it1 and add a good thick gravy1 put it into the oven for ten minutes to brown1 and serve as hot as possible4 ,no4 #aff4 ,cetriuoli alla ,borghese 7,cucumber7 ,ingredients3 ,cucumber1 cream1 salt1 ,bechamel sauce1 butter1 ,parmesan1 cayenne pepper4 ,cook a cucumber as in ,no4 #afe1 braize it for five minutes1 add to it a good rich ,bechamel 7,no4 #c71 mixed with cream and grated ,parmesan ,spread this well over the cucumber1 and put it into the oven for ten minutes keeping the rounds of cucumber separate1 so as to arrange them in a circle on a very hot dish4 ,care should be taken not to cook the cucumber too long1 or it will break in pieces and spoil the look of the dish4 ,no4 #afg4 ,carote al sughillo 7,carrots7 ,ingredients3 ,carrots1 stock1 butter1 sausage1 pepper4 ,boil some young carrots in stock1 slice them up1 and put them in a stewpan with a sausage cut up2 cook for quarter of an hour on a slow fire1 then stir up the fire1 and when the carrots and sausage are a good colour add a good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a71 and serve4 ,no4 #afh4 ,carote e piselli alla panna 7,carrots and ,peas7 ,ingredients3 ,young carrots1 peas1 cream1 salt4 ,half cook equal quantities of peas and young carrots 7the carrots should be cut in dice1 and will require a little longer cooking71 then put them together in a stewpan with three or four tablespoonsful of cream1 and cook till quite tender4 ,serve hot4 ,no4 #afi4 ,verze alla ,certosine 7,cabbage7 ,ingredients3 ,cabbage1 butter1 salt1 leeks or shallots1 sardines1 cheese4 ,any vegetable may be cooked in the following simple manner3 ,boil them well1 then slightly fry a little bit of leek or shallot and a sardine in butter2 drain the vegetables1 put them in the butter1 and cook gently so that they may absorb all the flavour1 and at the last add a dust of grated cheese and a tiny pinch of spice4 ,no4 #agj4 ,lattughe al sugo 7,lettuce7 ,ingredients3 ,lettuce1 ,parmesan1 bacon1 stock1 butter1 croutons of bread1 gravy4 ,take off the outside leaves of a lettuce1 blanch and drain them well4 ,put on each leaf a mixture of grated ,parmesan1 salt1 little bits of chopped bacon or ham1 add a little good stock1 cover over with buttered paper1 and cook in a hot oven for five minutes4 ,then drain off the stock and roll up each leaf with the bacon1 c41 put them on croutons of fried bread and pour some good thick gravy over them4 ,no4 #aga ,lattughe farcite alla ,genovese 7,lettuce7 ,ingredients3 ,lettuce1 forcemeat of fowl or veal1 ham1 ,espagnole sauce4 ,prepare a lettuce as above1 and spread on each leaf a spoonful of forcemeat of fowl or veal1 add a little cooked ham chopped up1 roll up the leaves1 and cook as above4 ,drain them on a cloth1 arrange them neatly on a dish1 and pour some good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 over them4 ,no4 #agb4 ,funghi cappelle infarcite 7,stuffed ,mushrooms7 ,ingredients3 ,mushrooms1 bread1 stock1 garlic1 parsley1 salt1 ,parmesan1 butter1 eggs1 cream4 ,choose a dozen good fresh mushrooms1 take off the stalks and put the tops into a saucepan with a little butter4 ,see that they lie bottom upwards4 ,then cut up and mix together half the stalks of the mushrooms1 a little bread crumb soaked in gravy1 the merest scrap of garlic and a little chopped parsley4 ,put this into a separate saucepan and add to it two eggs1 half a gill of cream1 salt1 and two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan4 ,mix well so as to get a smooth paste and fill in the cavities of the mushrooms with it4 ,then add a little more butter1 strew some bread crumbs over each mushroom1 and cook in the oven for ten to fifteen minutes4 ,no4 #agc4 ,verdure miste 7,macedoine of ,vegetables7 ,ingredients3 ,cauliflower1 carrots1 celery1 spinach1 butter1 cream1 pepper1 ,parmesan4 ,boil some carrots1 cauliflower1 spinach1 and celery 7all cut up7 in water4 ,then put them in layers in a buttered china mould1 and between each layer add a little cream1 pepper1 and a little grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar4 ,fill the mould in this manner1 and put it in the oven for half an hour1 so that the vegetables may cook without adhering to the mould4 ,turn out and serve4 ,no4 #agd4 ,patate alla crema 7,potatoes in cream7 ,ingredients3 ,potatoes1 butter1 ,parmesan1 white stock1 cream1 pepper1 salt4 ,boil two pounds of potatoes in salted water for a quarter of an hour1 peel and cut them into slices about the size of a penny1 then arrange them in layers in a very deep fireproof dish 7with a lid71 and on each layer pour a little melted butter1 a little good white stock and a dust of grated ,parmesan4 ,reduce a pint and a half of cream to half its quantity1 add a little pepper1 and pour it over the potatoes4 ,put the dish in the oven for twenty minutes4 ,serve as hot as possible4 ,no4 #age4 ,cestelline di patate alla giardiniera 7,potatoes7 ,ingredients3 ,potatoes1 white stock1 salt1 butter1 peas1 asparagus1 sprouts1 beans1 c4 ,choose some big sound potatoes1 cut them in half and scoop out a little of the centre so as to form a cavity1 blanch them in salted water and cook for a quarter of an hour in good white stock and a little butter4 ,then fill in the cavities with a macedoine of cooked vegetables and add a little cream to each4 ,no4 #agf4 ,patate al ,pomidoro 7,potatoes with ,tomato ,sauce7 ,ingredients3 ,potatoes1 butter1 salt1 tomatoes1 lemon1 stock4 ,peel three or four raw potatoes1 cut them in slices about the size of a five-shilling piece1 then put them into a stewpan with two ounces of melted butter1 and cook them gently until they are a good colour1 add salt1 drain off the butter1 then glaze them by adding half a glass of good stock4 ,arrange them on a dish1 pour some good tomato sauce over them1 and add a little butter and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,no4 #agg4 ,spinaci alla ,milanese 7,spinach7 ,ingredients3 ,spinach1 butter1 ,velute sauce1 salt1 pepper1 flour1 stock4 ,wash three pounds of spinach at least six times1 boil it in a pint of water1 then mince it up very fine1 pass it through a hair-sieve1 and put it in a saucepan with one and a half ounces of butter1 add a cupful of reduced ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b7 with cream1 salt1 and pepper1 add a dessert-spoonful of flour and butter mixed1 and boil until the spinach is firm enough to make into a shape1 garnish with hardboiled eggs cut into quarters1 and pour a good ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a7 round the dish4 ,no4 #agh4 ,insalata di patate 7,potato salad7 ,ingredients3 ,new potatoes1 oil1 white vinegar1 onions1 parsley1 tarragon1 chervil1 celery1 cream1 salt1 pepper1 tarragon vinegar1 watercress1 cucumber1 truffles4 ,steam as many new potatoes as you require until they are well cooked1 let them get cold1 cut them into slices and pour three teaspoonsful of salad oil and one of white vinegar over them4 ,then rub a salad bowl with onion1 put in a layer of the potato slices1 and sprinkle with chopped parsley1 tarragon1 chervil1 and celery1 then another layer of potatoes until you have used all the potatoes2 cover them with whipped cream seasoned with salt1 pepper1 and a little tarragon vinegar1 and garnish the top with watercress1 a few thin slices of truffle cooked in white wine1 and some slices of cooked cucumber4 ,no4 #agi4 ,insalata alla ,navarino 7,salad7 ,ingredients3 ,peas1 bean onions1 potatoes1 tarragon1 chives1 parsley1 tomatoes1 anchovies1 oil1 vinegar1 ham4 ,mix a tablespoonful of chopped parsley1 a teaspoonful of chopped onion1 a teaspoonful of tarragon and chopped chives with half a gill of oil and half a gill of vinegar4 ,put this into a salad bowl with all sorts of cooked vegetables3 peas1 haricot beans1 small onions1 and potatoes cut up1 and mix them w ell but gently1 so as not to break the vegetables4 ,then add two or three anchovies in oil1 and on the top place three or four ripe tomatoes cut in slices4 ,a little cooked smoked ham cut in dice added to this salad is a great improvement4 ,no4 #ahj4 ,insalata di pomidoro 7,tomato ,salad7 ,ingredients3 ,tomatoes1 mayonnaise1 shallot1 horseradish1 gherkin1 anchovies1 fish1 cucumber1 lettuce1 chervil1 tarragon1 eggs4 ,mix the following ingredients3 two anchovies in oil boned and minced1 a gill of mayonnaise sauce1 a little grated horseradish1 very little chopped shallot1 a little cold salmon or trout1 and a small gherkin chopped4 ,with this mixture stuff some ripe tomatoes4 ,then make a good salad of endive or lettuce1 a teaspoonful of chopped tarragon and chervil1 season it with oil1 vinegar1 salt1 and pepper 7the proportions should be three of oil to one of vinegar71 put a layer of slices of cucumber in the salad1 place the tomatoes on the top of these1 and decorate them with hard-boiled eggs passed through a wire sieve4 ,no4 #aha4 ,tartufi alla ,dino 7,truffles7 ,ingredients3 ,truffles1 fowl forcemeat1 champagne4 ,allow one truffle for each person1 scoop out the inside1 chop it up fine and mix with a good forcemeat of fowl4 ,with this fill up the truffles1 place a thin layer of truffle on the top of each1 and cook them in champagne in a stewpan for about half an hour4 ,then take them out1 make a rich sauce1 to which add the champagne you have used and some of the chopped truffle1 put the truffles in this sauce and keep hot for ten minutes4 ,serve in paper souffle cases4 ,macaroni1 ,rice1 ,polenta1 and ,other ,italian ,pastes99 99 ,italian pastes of the best quality can be obtained at ,cosenza's1 ,wigmore ,street1 ,,nw4 ,for the following dishes1 tagliarelle and spaghetti are recommended4 ,no4 #ahb4 ,macaroni with ,tomatoes ,ingredients3 ,macaroni1 tomatoes1 butter1 onion1 basil1 pepper1 salt4 ,fry half an onion slightly in butter1 and as soon as it is coloured add a puree of two big cooked tomatoes4 ,then boil quarter of a pound of macaroni separately1 drain it and put it in a deep fireproof dish1 add the tomato puree and three tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed1 and cook gently for a quarter of an hour before serving4 ,this dish may be made with vermicelli1 spaghetti1 or any other ,italian paste4 ,no4 #ahc4 ,macaroni alla ,casalinga ,ingredients3 ,macaroni1 butter1 stock1 cheese1 water1 salt1 nutmeg4 ,cut up a quarter pound of macaroni in small pieces and put it in boiling salted water4 ,when sufficiently cooked1 drain and put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter1 add good gravy or stock1 three tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed1 and a tiny pinch of nutmeg4 ,stir over a brisk fire1 and serve very hot4 ,no4 #ahd4 ,macaroni al ,sughillo ,ingredients3 ,macaroni1 stock1 tomatoes1 sausage1 cheese4 ,half cook four ounces of macaroni1 drain it and put it in layers in a fireproof dish1 and gradually add good beef gravy1 four tablespoonsful of tomato puree1 and thin slices of sausage4 ,sprinkle with grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar1 and cook for about twenty minutes4 ,before serving pass the salamander over the top to brown the macaroni4 ,no4 #ahe4 ,macaroni alla ,livornese ,ingredients3 ,macaroni1 mushrooms1 tomatoes1 ,parmesan1 butter1 pepper1 salt1 milk4 ,boil about four ounces of macaroni1 and stew four or five mushrooms in milk with pepper and salt4 ,put a layer of the macaroni in a buttered fireproof dish1 then a layer of tomato puree1 then a layer of the mushrooms and another layer of macaroni4 ,dust it all over with grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar1 put it in the oven for half an hour1 and serve very hot4 ,no4 #ahf4 ,tagliarelle and ,lobster ,ingredients3 ,tagliarelle1 lobster1 cheese1 butter4 ,boil half a pound of tagliarelle1 and cut up a quarter of a pound of lobster4 ,butter a fireproof dish1 and strew it well with grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed1 then put in the tagliarelle and lobster in layers1 and between each layer add a little butter4 ,strew grated cheese over the top1 put it in the oven for twenty minutes1 and brown the top with a salamander4 ,no4 #ahg4 ,polenta ,polenta is made of ground ,indian-corn1 and may be used either as a separate dish or as a garnish for roast meat1 pigeons1 fowl1 c4 ,it is made like porridge2 gradually drop the meal with one hand into boiling stock or water1 and stir continually with a wooden spoon with the other hand4 ,in about a quarter of an hour it will be quite thick and smooth1 then add a little butter and grated ,parmesan1 and one egg beaten up4 ,let it get cold1 then put it in layers in a baking-dish1 add a little butter to each layer1 sprinkle with plenty of ,parmesan1 and bake it for about an hour in a slow oven4 ,serve hot4 ,no4 #ahh4 ,polenta ,pasticciata ,ingredients3 ,polenta1 butter1 cheese1 mushrooms1 tomatoes4 ,prepare a good polenta as above1 put it in layers in a fireproof dish1 and add by degrees one and a half ounces of melted butter1 two cooked mushrooms cut up1 and two tablespoonsful of grated cheese4 7,if you like1 you may add a good-sized tomato mashed up47 ,put the dish in the oven1 and before serving brown it over with salamander4 ,no4 #ahi4 ,battuffoli ,ingredients3 ,polenta1 onion1 butter1 salt1 stock1 ,parmesan4 ,make a somewhat firm polenta 7,no4 #ahg7 with half a pound of ground maize and a pint and a half of salted water1 add a small onion cut up and fried in butter1 and stir the polenta until it is sufficiently cooked4 ,then take it off the fire and arrange it by spoonsful in a large fireproof dish1 and give each spoonful the shape and size of an egg4 ,place them one against the other1 and when the first layer is done1 pour over it some very good gravy or stock1 and plenty of grated ,parmesan4 ,arrange it thus layer by layer4 ,put it into the oven for twenty minutes1 and serve very hot4 ,no4 #aij4 ,risotto all',italiana ,ingredients3 ,rice1 an onion1 butter1 stock1 tomatoes1 cheese4 ,fry a small onion slightly in butter1 then add half a pint of very good stock4 ,boil four ounces of rice1 but do not let it get pulpy1 add it to the above with three medium-sized tomatoes in a puree4 ,mix it all up well1 add more stock1 and two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed1 and serve hot4 ,no4 #aia4 ,risotto alla ,genovese ,ingredients3 ,rice1 beef or veal1 onions1 parsley1 butter1 stock1 ,parmesan1 sweetbread or sheep's brains4 ,cut up a small onion and fry it slightly in butter with some chopped parsley1 add to this a little veal1 also chopped up1 and a little suet4 ,cook for ten minutes and then add two ounces of rice to it4 ,mix all with a wooden spoon1 and after a few minutes begin to add boiling stock gradually2 stir with the spoon1 so that the rice whilst cooking may absorb the stock2 when it is half cooked add a few spoonsful of good gravy and a sweetbread or sheep's brains 7previously scalded and cut up in pieces71 and1 if you like1 a little powdered saffron dissolved in a spoonful of stock and three tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed4 ,stir well until the rice is quite cooked1 but take care not to get it into a pulp4 ,no4 #aib4 ,risotto alla ,spagnuola ,ingredients3 ,rice1 pork1 ham1 onions1 tomatoes1 butter1 stock1 vegetables1 ,parmesan4 ,put a small bit of onion and an ounce of butter into a saucepan1 add half a pound of tomatoes cut up and fry for a few minutes4 ,then put in some bits of loin of pork cut into dice and some bits of lean ham4 ,after a time add four ounces of rice and good stock1 and as soon as it begins to boil put on the cover and put the saucepan on a moderate fire4 ,when the rice is half cooked add any sort of vegetable1 by preference peas1 asparagus cut up1 beans1 and cucumber cut up1 cook for another quarter of an hour1 and serve with grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar mixed and good gravy4 ,no4 #aic4 ,risotto alla ,capuccina ,ingredients3 ,risotto 7,no4 #aij7 eggs1 truffles1 smoked tongue1 butter4 ,make a good risotto1 and when cooked put it into a fireproof dish4 ,when cold cut into shapes with a dariole mould and fry for a few minutes in butter1 then turn the darioles out1 scoop out a little of each and fill it with eggs beaten up1 cover each with a slice of truffle and garnish with a little chopped tongue4 ,put them in the oven for ten minutes4 ,no4 #aid4 ,risotto alla ,parigina ,ingredients3 ,risotto 7,no4 #aij71 game1 sauce1 butter4 ,make a good risotto1 and when cooked pour it into a fireproof dish1 let it get cold1 and then cut it out with a dariole mould1 or else form it into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg4 ,fry these in butter and serve with a rich game sauce poured over them4 ,no4 #aie4 ,ravioli ,ingredients3 ,flour1 eggs1 butter1 salt1 forcemeat1 ,parmesan1 gravy or stock4 ,make a paste with a quarter pound of flour1 the yolk of two eggs1 a little salt and two ounces of butter4 ,knead this into a firm smooth paste and wrap it up in a damp cloth for half an hour1 then roll it out as thin as possible1 moisten it with a paste-brush dipped in water1 and cut it into circular pieces about three inches in diameter4 ,on each piece put about a teaspoonful of forcemeat of fowl1 game1 or fish mixed with a little grated ,parmesan and the yolks of one or two eggs4 ,fold the paste over the forcemeat and pinch the edges together1 so as to give them the shape of little puffs2 let them dry in the larder1 then blanch by boiling them in stock for quarter of an hour and drain them in a napkin4 ,butter a fireproof dish1 put in a layer of the ravioli1 powder them over with grated ,parmesan1 then another layer of ravioli and more ,parmesan4 ,then add enough very good gravy to cover them1 put the dish in the oven for about twenty-five minutes1 and serve in the dish4 ,no4 #aif4 ,ravioli alla ,fiorentina ,ingredients3 ,beetroot1 eggs1 ,parmesan1 milk or cream1 nutmeg1 spices1 salt1 flour1 gravy4 ,wash a beetroot and boil it1 and when it is sufficiently cooked throw it into cold water for a few minutes1 then drain it1 chop it up and add to it four eggs1 one ounce of grated ,parmesan1 one ounce of grated ,cheddar1 two and a half ounces of boiled cream or milk1 a small pinch of nutmeg and a little salt4 ,mix all well together into a smooth firm paste1 then roll into balls about the size of a walnut1 flour them over well1 let them dry for half an hour1 then drop them very carefully one by one into boiling stock and when they float on the top take them out with a perforated ladle1 put them in a deep dish1 dust them over with ,parmesan and pour good meat or game gravy over them4 ,no4 #aig4 ,gnocchi alla ,romana ,ingredients3 ,semolina1 butter1 ,parmesan1 eggs1 nutmeg1 milk1 cream4 ,boil half a pint of milk in a saucepan1 then add two ounces of butter1 four ounces of semolina1 two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan1 the yolks of three eggs1 and a tiny pinch of nutmeg4 ,mix all well together1 then let it cool1 and spread out the paste so that it is about the thickness of a finger4 ,put a little butter and grated ,parmesan and two tablespoonsful of cream in a fireproof dish1 cut out the semolina paste with a small dariole mould and put it in the dish4 ,dust a little more ,parmesan over it1 put it in the oven for five minutes and serve in the dish4 ,no4 #aih4 ,gnocchi alla ,lombarda ,ingredients3 ,potatoes1 flour1 salt1 ,parmesan and ,gruyere cheese1 butter1 milk1 eggs4 ,boil two or three big potatoes1 and pass them through a hair sieve1 mix in two tablespoonsful of flour1 an egg beaten up1 and enough milk to form a rather firm paste2 stir until it is quite smooth4 ,roll it into the shape of a ,german sausage1 cut it into rounds about three quarters of an inch thick1 and put it into the larder to dry for about half an hour4 ,then drop the gnocchi one by one into boiling salted water and boil for ten minutes4 ,take them out with a slice1 and put them in a well-buttered fireproof dish1 add butter between each layer1 and strew plenty of grated ,parmesan and ,cheddar over them4 ,put them in the oven for ten minutes1 brown the top with a salamander1 and serve very hot4 ,no4 #aii4 ,frittata di ,riso 7,savoury ,rice ,pancake7 ,ingredients3 ,rice1 milk1 salt1 butter1 cinnamon1 eggs1 ,parmesan4 ,boil quarter of a pound of rice in milk until it is quite soft and pulpy1 drain off the milk and add to the rice an ounce of butter1 two tablespoonsful of grated ,parmesan1 and a pinch of cinnamon1 and when it has got rather cold1 the yolks of four eggs beaten up4 ,mix all well together1 and with this make a pancake with butter in a frying pan4 ,omelettes ,and ,other ,egg ,dishes ,no4 #bjj4 ,uova al ,tartufi 7,eggs with ,truffles7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 butter1 cream1 truffles1 ,velute sauce1 croutons4 ,beat up six eggs1 pass them through a sieve1 and put them into a saucepan with two ounces of butter and two tablespoonsful of cream4 ,put the saucepan in a bain-marie1 and stir so that the eggs may not adhere4 ,sautez some slices of truffle in butter1 cover them with ,velute sauce 7,no4 #b7 and a glass of ,marsala1 and add them to the eggs4 ,serve very hot with fried and glazed croutons4 ,instead of truffles you can use asparagus tips1 peas1 or cooked ham4 ,no4 #bja4 ,uova al ,pomidoro 7,eggs and ,tomatoes7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 salt1 tomatoes1 onion1 parsley1 butter1 pepper4 ,cut up three or four tomatoes1 and put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter the size of a walnut and a clove of garlic with a cut in it4 ,put the lid on the stewpan and cook till quite soft1 then take out the garlic1 strain the tomatoes through a fine strainer into a bain-marie1 beat up two eggs and add them to the tomatoes1 and stir till quite thick1 then put in two tablespoonsful of grated cheese1 and serve on toast4 ,no4 #bjb4 ,uova ripiene 7,canapes of ,egg7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 butter1 salt1 pepper1 nutmeg1 cheese1 parsley1 mushrooms1 ,bechamel and ,espagnole sauce1 stock4 ,boil as many eggs as you want hard1 and cut them in half lengthwise2 take out the yolks and mix them with some fresh butter1 salt1 pepper1 very little nutmeg1 grated cheese1 a little chopped parsley1 and cooked mushrooms also chopped4 ,then mix two tablespoonsful of good ,bechamel sauce 7,no4 #c7 with the raw yolk of one or two eggs and add it to the rest4 ,put all in a saucepan with an ounce of butter and good stock1 then fill up the white halves with the mixture1 giving them a good shape2 heat them in a bain-marie1 and serve with a very good clear ,espagnole sauce 7,no4 #a74 ,no4 #bjc4 ,uova alla ,fiorentina 7,eggs7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 butter1 ,parmesan1 cream1 flour1 salt1 pepper1 curds4 ,boil as many eggs as you require hard1 then cut them in half and take out the yolks and pound them in a mortar with equal quantities of butter and curds1 a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 salt and pepper4 ,put this in a saucepan and add the yolks of eight eggs and the white of one 7this is for twelve people71 mix all well together and reduce a little4 ,with this mixture fill the hard whites of the eggs and spread the rest of the sauce on the bottom of the dish1 and on this place the whites4 ,then in another saucepan mix half a gill of cream and an ounce of butter1 a dessert-spoonful of flour1 salt1 and pepper2 let this boil for a minute1 and then glaze over the eggs in the dish with it1 and on the top of each egg put a little bit of butter1 and over all a powdering of grated cheese4 ,put this in the oven1 pass the salamander over the top1 and when the cheese is coloured serve at once4 ,no4 #bjd4 ,uova in fili 7,egg ,canapes7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 butter1 mushrooms1 onions1 flour1 white wine1 fish or meat stock1 salt1 pepper1 croutons of bread4 ,put into a saucepan two ounces of butter1 three large fresh mushrooms cut into slices1 and an onion cut up1 fry them slightly1 and when the onion begins to colour add a spoonful of flour1 a quarter of a glass of ,chablis1 salt and pepper1 and occasionally add a spoonful of either fish or meat stock4 ,let this simmer for half an hour1 so as to reduce it to a thick sauce4 ,then boil as many eggs as you want hard2 take out the yolks1 but keep them whole4 ,cut up the whites into slices1 and add them to the above sauce1 pour the sauce into a dish1 and on the top of it place the whole yolks of egg1 each on a crouton of bread4 ,no4 #bje4 ,frittata di funghi 7,mushroom ,omelette7 ,ingredients3 ,mushrooms1 butter1 eggs1 bread crumbs1 ,parmesan1 marjoram1 garlic4 ,clean four or five mushrooms1 cut them up1 and put them into a frying-pan with one and a half ounces of butter1 a clove of garlic with two cuts in it1 and a little salt2 fry them lightly till the mushrooms are nearly cooked1 and then take out the garlic4 ,in the meantime beat up separately the yolks and the whites of two or three eggs1 add a little crumb of bread soaked in water1 a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 and two leaves of marjoram2 go on beating all up until the crumb of bread has become entirely absorbed by the eggs1 then pour this mixture into the frying-pan with the mushrooms1 mix all well together and make an omelette in the usual way4 ,no4 #bjf4 ,frittata con ,pomidoro 7,tomato ,omelette7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 tomatoes1 butter1 marjoram1 parsley1 spice4 ,peel two tomatoes and take out the seeds2 then mix them with an ounce of butter1 chopped marjoram1 parsley1 and a tiny pinch of spice4 ,add three eggs beaten up 7the yolks and whites separately71 and make an omelette4 ,no4 #bjg4 ,frittata con ,asparagi 7,asparagus ,omelette7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 asparagus1 butter1 ham1 herbs1 cheese4 ,blanch a dozen heads of asparagus and cook them slightly1 then cut them up and mix with two ounces of butter1 bits of cut-up ham1 herbs1 and a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan4 ,add them to three beaten-up eggs and make an omelette4 ,no4 #bjh4 ,frittata con erbe 7,omelette with ,herbs7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 onions1 sorrel1 mint1 parsley1 asparagus1 marjoram1 salt1 pepper1 butter4 ,chop a little sorrel1 a small bit of onion1 mint1 parsley1 marjoram1 and fry in two ounces of butter1 add some cut-up asparagus1 salt1 and pepper4 ,then add three eggs beaten up and a little grated cheese1 and make your omelette4 ,no4 #bji4 ,frittata ,montata 7,omelette ,souffle7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 ,parmesan1 pepper1 parsley4 ,beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth and the yolks separately with a tablespoonful of grated ,parmesan1 chopped parsley1 and a little pepper4 ,then mix them and make a light omelette4 ,no4 #baj4 ,frittata di ,prosciutto 7,ham ,omelette7 ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 ham1 ,parmesan1 mint1 pepper1 clotted cream4 ,beat up three eggs and add to them two tablespoonsful of clotted cream1 one tablespoonful of chopped ham1 one of grated ,parmesan1 chopped mint and a little pepper1 and make the omelette in the usual way4 ,sweets and ,cakes ,no4 #baa4 ,bodino of ,semolina ,ingredients3 ,semolina1 milk1 eggs1 castor sugar1 lemon1 sultanas1 rum1 butter1 cream1 or ,zabajone 7,no4 #bbb74 ,boil one and a half pints of milk with four ounces of castor sugar1 and gradually add five ounces of semolina1 boil for a quarter of an hour more and stir continually with a wooden spoon1 then take the saucepan off the fire1 and when it is cooled a little1 add the yolks of six and the whites of two eggs well beaten up1 a little grated lemon peel1 three-quarters of an ounce of sultanas and two small glasses of rum4 ,mix well1 so as to get it very smooth1 pour it into a buttered mould and serve either hot or cold4 ,if cold1 put whipped cream flavoured with stick vanilla round the dish2 if hot1 a ,zabajone 7,no4 #bbb74 ,no4 #bab4 ,crema rappresa 7,coffee ,cream7 ,ingredients3 ,coffee1 cream1 eggs1 sugar1 butter4 ,bruise five ounces of freshly roasted ,mocha coffee1 and add it to three-quarters of a pint of boiling cream2 cover the saucepan1 let it simmer for twenty minutes1 then pass through a bit of fine muslin4 ,in the meantime mix the yolks of ten eggs and two whole eggs with eight ounces of castor sugar and a glass of cream2 add the coffee cream to this and pass the whole through a fine sieve into a buttered mould4 ,steam in a bain-marie for rather more than an hour1 but do not let the water boil2 then put the cream on ice for about an hour1 and before serving turn it out on a dish and pour some cream flavoured with stick vanilla round it4 ,no4 #bac4 ,crema ,montata alle ,fragole 7,strawberry ,cream7 ,ingredients3 ,cream1 castor sugar1 ,maraschino1 strawberries or strawberry jam4 ,put a pint of cream on ice1 and after two hours whip it up4 ,pass three tablespoonsful of strawberry jam through a sieve and add two tablespoonsful of ,maraschino2 mix this with the cream and build it up into a pyramid4 ,garnish with meringue biscuits and serve quickly4 ,you may use fresh strawberries when in season1 but then add castor sugar to taste4 ,no4 #bad4 ,croccante di ,mandorle 7,cream ,nougat7 ,ingredients3 ,almonds1 sugar1 lemon juice1 butter1 castor sugar1 pistachios1 preserved fruits4 ,blanch half a pound of almonds1 cut them into shreds and dry them in a slow oven until they are a light brown colour2 then put a quarter pound of lump sugar into a saucepan and caramel it lightly2 stir well with a wooden spoon4 ,when the sugar is dissolved1 throw the hot almonds into it and also a little lemon juice4 ,take the saucepan off the fire and mix the almonds with the sugar1 pour it into a buttered mould and press it against the sides of the mould with a lemon1 but remember that the casing of sugar must be very thin4 7,you may1 if you like1 spread out the mixture on a flat dish and line the mould with your hands1 but the sugar must be kept hot47 ,then take it out of the mould and decorate it with castor sugar1 pistacchio nuts1 and preserved fruits4 ,fill this case with whipped cream and preserved fruits or fresh strawberries4 ,no4 #bae4 ,crema tartara alla ,caramella 7,caramel ,cream7 ,ingredients3 ,cream1 eggs1 caramel sugar1 vanilla or lemon flavouring4 ,boil a pint of cream and give it any flavour you like4 ,when cold1 add the yolks of eight eggs and two tablespoonsful of castor sugar1 mix well and pass it through a sieve2 then burn some sugar to a caramel1 line a smooth mould with it and pour the cream into it4 ,boil in a bain-marie for an hour and serve hot or cold4 ,no4 #baf4 ,cremona ,cake ,ingredients3 ,ground rice1 ground maize1 sugar1 one orange1 eggs1 salt1 cream1 ,maraschino1 almonds1 preserved cherries4 ,weigh three eggs1 and take equal quantities of castor sugar1 butter1 ground rice and maize 7the last two together72 make a light paste with them1 but only use one whole egg and the yolks of the two others1 add the scraped peel of an orange and a pinch of salt4 ,roll this paste out to the thickness of a five-shilling piece1 colour it with the yolk of an egg and bake it in a cake tin in a hot oven until it is a good colour1 then take it out and cut it into four equal circular pieces4 ,have ready some well-whipped cream and flavour it with ,maraschino1 put a thick layer of this on one of the rounds of pastry1 then cover it with3 the next round1 on which also put a layer of cream1 and so on until you come to the last round1 which forms the top of the cake4 ,then split some almonds and colour them in the oven1 cover the top of the cake with icing sugar flavoured with orange1 and decorate the top with the almonds and preserved cherries4 ,no4 #bag4 ,cake alla ,tolentina ,ingredients3 ,sponge-cake1 jam1 brandy or ,maraschino1 cream1 pine-apple4 ,make a medium-sized sponge-cake2 when cold cut off the top and scoop out all the middle and leave only the brown case2 cover the outside with a good coating of jam or red currant jelly1 and decorate it with some of the white of the cake cut into fancy shapes4 ,soak the rest of the crumb in brandy or ,maraschino and mix it with quarter of a pint of whipped cream and bits of pineapple cut into small dice2 fill the cake with this2 pile it up high in the centre and decorate the top with the brown top cut into fancy shapes4 ,no4 #bah4 ,riso all',imperatrice ,ingredients3 ,rice1 sugar1 milk1 ice1 preserved fruits1 blanc-mange1 ,maraschino1 cream4 ,boil two dessert-spoonsful of rice and one of sugar in milk4 ,when sufficiently boiled1 drain the rice and let it get cold4 ,in the meantime place a mould on ice1 and decorate it with slices of preserved fruit1 and fix them to the mould with just enough nearly cold dissolved isinglass to keep them in place4 ,also put half a pint of blanc-mange on the ice1 and stir it till it is the right consistency1 gradually add the boiled rice1 half a glass of ,maraschino1 some bits of pineapple cut in dice1 and last of all half a pint of whipped cream4 ,fill the mould with this1 and when it is sufficiently cold1 turn it out and serve with a garnish of glace fruits or a few brandy cherries4 ,no4 #bai4 ,amaretti leggieri 7,almond ,cakes7 ,ingredients3 ,almonds 7sweet and bitter71 eggs1 castor sugar4 ,blanch equal quantities of sweet and bitter almonds1 and dry them a little in the oven1 then pound them in a mortar1 and add nearly double their quantity of castor sugar4 ,mix with the white of an egg well beaten up into a snow1 and shape into little balls about the size of a pigeon's egg4 ,put them on a piece of stout white paper1 and bake them in a very slow oven4 ,they should be very light and delicate in flavour4 ,no4 #bbj4 ,cakes alla ,livornese ,ingredients3 ,almonds1 eggs1 sugar1 salt1 potato flour1 butter4 ,pound two ounces of almonds1 and mix them with the yolks of two eggs and a spoonful of castor sugar flavoured with orange juice4 ,then mix two ounces of sugar with an egg1 and to this add the almonds1 a pinch of salt1 and gradually strew in one and a half ounces of potato flour4 ,when it is all well mixed1 add one ounce of melted butter1 shape the cakes and bake them in a slow oven4 ,no4 #bba4 ,genoese ,pastry ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 sugar1 butter1 flour1 almonds1 orange or lemon1 brandy4 ,weigh four eggs1 and take equal weights of castor sugar1 butter1 and flour4 ,pound three ounces of almonds1 and mix them with an egg1 melt the butter1 and mix all the ingredients with a wooden spoon in a pudding basin for ten minutes1 then add a little scraped orange or lemon peel1 and a dessert-spoonful of brandy4 ,spread out the paste in thin layers on a copper baking sheet1 cover them with buttered paper1 and bake in a moderately hot oven4 ,these cakes must be cut into shapes when they are hot1 as otherwise they will break4 ,no4 #bbb4 ,zabajone ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 sugar1 ,marsala1 ,maraschino or other light-coloured liqueur1 sponge fingers4 ,zabajone is a kind of syllabub4 ,it is made with ,marsala and ,maraschino1 or ,marsala and yellow ,chartreuse4 ,reckon the quantities as follows3 for each person the yolks of three eggs1 one teaspoonful of castor sugar to each egg1 and a wine-glass of wine and liqueur mixed4 ,whip up the yolks of the eggs with the sugar1 then gradually add the wine4 ,put this in a bain-marie1 and stir until it has thickened to the consistency of a custard4 ,take care1 however1 that it does not boil4 ,serve hot in custard glasses1 and hand sponge fingers with it4 ,no4 #bbc4 ,iced ,zabajone ,ingredients3 ,eggs1 castor sugar1 ,marsala1 cinnamon1 lemon1 stick vanilla1 rum1 ,maraschino1 butter1 ice4 ,mix the yolks of ten eggs1 two dessert-spoonsful of castor sugar1 and three wine-glasses of ,marsala1 add half a stick of vanilla1 a small bit of whole cinnamon1 and the peel of half a lemon cut into slices4 ,whip this up lightly over a slow fire until it is nearly boiling and slightly frothy2 then remove it1 take out the cinnamon1 vanilla1 and lemon pool1 and whip up the rest for a minute or two away from the fire4 ,add a tablespoonful of ,maraschino and one of rum1 and1 if you like1 a small quantity of dissolved isinglass4 ,stir up the whole1 pour it into a silver souffle dish1 and put it on ice4 ,serve with sponge cakes or iced wafers4 ,no4 #bbd4 ,pan-forte di ,siena 7,sienese ,hardbake7 ,ingredients3 ,honey1 almonds1 filberts1 candied lemon peel1 pepper1 cinnamon1 chocolate1 corn flour1 large wafers4 ,boil half a pound of honey in a copper vessel1 and then add to it a few blanched almonds and filberts cut in halves or quarters and slightly browned1 a little candied lemon peel1 a dust of pepper and powdered cinnamon and a quarter pound of grated chocolate4 ,mix all well together1 and gradually add a tablespoonful of corn flour end two of ground almonds to thicken it4 ,then take the vessel off the fire1 spread the mixture on large wafers1 and make each cake about an inch thick4 ,garnish them on the top with almonds cut in half1 and dust over a little powdered sugar and cinnamon1 then put them in a very slow oven for an hour4 ,,new ,,century ,,sauce 99 99 ,the ,new ,century ,sauce may be bought at ,messrs4 ,lazenby's1 ,wigmore ,street1 ,w ,no4 #bbe4 ,fish ,sauce ,add one dessert-spoonful of the sauce to a quarter pint of melted butter sauce4 ,no4 #bbf4 ,sauce ,piquante 7for ,meat1 ,fowl1 ,game1 ,rabbit1 c47 ,one dessert-spoonful to a quarter pint of ordinary brown or white stock4 ,it may be thickened by a roux made by frying two ounces of butter with two ounces of flour4 ,no4 #bbg4 ,sauce for ,venison1 ,hare1 c4 ,two dessert-spoonsful of ,new ,century ,sauce to half a pint of game gravy or sauce1 and a small teaspoonful of red currant jelly4 ,no4 #bbh4 ,tomato ,sauce ,piquante ,fry three medium-sized tomatoes in one and a half ounce of butter4 ,pass this through a sieve1 then boil it up in a bain-marie till it thickens1 and add one dessertspoonful of ,new ,century ,sauce4 ,no4 #bbi4 ,sauce for ,roast ,pork1 ,ham1 c4 ,add to any ordinary white or brown sauce one dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century ,sauce and two of port or ,burgundy if the sauce is brown1 two of ,chablis if white4 ,no4 #bcj4 ,for masking ,cutlets1 c4 ,making a roux by frying two ounces of butter with two ounces of flour1 and add two tablespoonsful of boiling stock4 ,stir in one dessert-spoonful of ,new ,century ,sauce4 ,let it get cold1 and it will then be quite firm and ready for masking cutlets1 c4