,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado ,,by ,j4 ,w4 ,,powell1 ,,ph4,d41 ,,ll4,d41 ,formerly ,director of the ,united ,states ,geological ,survey4 ,member of the ,national ,academy of ,sciences1 etc41 etc4 ,,with ,,many ,,illustrations4 ,first published #ahie ,,preface4 ,on my return from the first exploration of the canyons of the ,colorado1 ,i found that our journey had been the theme of much newspaper writing4 ,a story of disaster had been circulated1 with many particulars of hardship and tragedy1 so that it was currently believed throughout the ,united ,states that all the members of the party were lost save one4 ,a good friend of mine had gathered a great number of obituary notices1 and it was interesting and rather flattering to me to discover the high esteem in which ,i had been held by the people of the ,united ,states4 ,in my supposed death ,i had attained to a glory which ,i fear my continued life has not fully vindicated4 ,the exploration was not made for adventure1 but purely for scientific purposes1 geographic and geologic1 and ,i had no intention of writing an account of it1 but only of recording the scientific results4 ,immediately on my return ,i was interviewed a number of times1 and these interviews were published in the daily press2 and here ,i supposed all interest in the exploration ended4 ,but in #ahgd the editors of ,scribner's ,monthly requested me to publish a popular account of the ,colorado exploration in that journal4 ,to this ,i acceded and prepared four short articles1 which were elaborately illustrated from photographs in my possession4 ,in the same year--#ahgd--;at the instance of ,professor ,henry of the ,smithsonian ,institution1 ,i was called before an appropriations committee of the ,house of ,representatives to explain certain estimates made by the ,professor for funds to continue scientific work which had been in progress from the date of the original exploration4 ,mr4 ,garfield was chairman of the committee1 and after listening to my ,,iv ,,preface4 account of the progress of the geographic and geologic work1 he asked me why no history of the original exploration of the canyons had been published4 ,i informed him that ,i had no interest in that work as an adventure1 but was interested only in the scientific results1 and that these results had in part been published and in part were in course of publication4 ,thereupon ,mr4 ,garfield1 in a pleasant manner1 insisted that the history of the exploration should be published by the government1 and that ,i must understand that my scientific work would be continued by additional appropriations only upon my promise that ,i would publish an account of the exploration4 ,i made the promise1 and the task was immediately undertaken4 ,my daily journal had been kept on long and narrow strips of brown paper1 which were gathered into little volumes that were bound in sole leather in camp as they were completed4 ,after some deliberation ,i decided to publish this journal1 with only such emendations and corrections as its hasty writing in camp necessitated4 ,it chanced that the journal was written in the present tense1 so that the first account of my trip appeared in that tense4 ,the journal thus published was not a lengthy paper1 constituting but a part of a report entitled ,exploration of the ,colorado ,river of the ,west and its ,tributaries4 ,explored in #ahfi1 #ahgj1 #ahga1 and #ahgb1 under the direction of the ,secretary of the ,smithsonian ,institution4 ,the other papers published with it relate to the geography1 geology1 and natural history of the country4 ,and here again ,i supposed all account of the exploration ended4 ,but from that time until the present ,i have received many letters urging that a popular account of the exploration and a description of that wonderful land should be published by me4 ,this call has been voiced occasionally in the daily press and sometimes in the magazines1 until at last ,i have concluded to publish a fuller account in popular form4 ,in doing this ,i have revised and enlarged the original journal of exploration1 and have added several new chapters descriptive of the region and of the people who inhabit it4 ,realizing the difficulty of painting in word colors a land so strange1 so wonderful1 and so vast in its features1 in the weakness of my descriptive powers ,i have sought refuge in graphic illustration1 and for this purpose have gathered from the magazines and from various scien- ,,preface4 ,v tific reports an abundance of material4 ,all of this illustrative material originated in my work1 but it has already been used elsewhere4 ,many years have passed since the exploration1 and those who were boys with me in the enterprise are--ah1 most of them are dead1 and the living are gray with age4 ,their bronzed1 hardy1 brave faces come before me as they appeared in the vigor of life2 their lithe but powerful forms seem to move around me2 and the memory of the men and their heroic deeds1 the men and their generous acts1 overwhelms me with a joy that seems almost a grief1 for it starts a fountain of tears4 ,i was a maimed man2 my right arm was gone2 and these brave men1 these good men1 never forgot it4 ,in every danger my safety was their first care1 and in every waking hour some kind service was rendered me1 and they transfigured my misfortune into a boon4 ,to you--,j4 ,c4 ,sumner1 ,william ,h4 ,dunn1 ,w4 ,h4 ,powell1 ,g4 ,y4 ,bradley1 ,o4 ,g4 ,howland1 ,seneca ,howland1 ,frank ,goodman1 ,w4 ,e4 ,hawkins1 and ,andrew ,hall--my noble and generous companions1 dead and alive1 ,i dedicate this book4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,,page ,i4 ,the ,valley of the ,colorado 44#ag ,,ii4 ,mesas and1 ,buttes 4 4 4 4 #ci ,,iii4 ,mountains and ,plateaus 444#fg ,,iv4 ,cliffs and ,terraces 4444#hi ,v4 ,from ,green ,river ,city to ,flaming ,gorge 4 #aag ,,vi4 ,from ,flaming ,gorge to the ,gate of ,lodore 4 4 #acc ,,vii4 ,the ,canyon of ,lodore 444#aea ,,viii4 ,from ,echo ,park to the ,mouth of the ,uinta ,river 4#afg ,,ix4 ,from the ,mouth of the ,uinta ,river to the ,junction of the ,grand and ,green 4 444#ahi ,x4 ,from the ,junction of the ,grand and ,green to the ,mouth of the ,little ,colorado 444444#baa ,,xi4 ,from the ,little ,colorado to the ,foot of the ,grand ,canyon#bdg ,,xii4 ,the ,rio ,virgen and the ,uinkaret ,mountains 4 4#bhi ,,xiii4 ,over the ,river 4444#cbg ,,xiv4 ,to ,zui 444444#cea ,,xv4 ,the ,grand ,canyon 4444#cgi ,index 4444444#cii ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,portrait of the ,author 4444444 ,frontispiece missing ,,page ,the ,colorado ,river 444444#af ,parunuweap ,canyon 44444#ah ,bird's-eye ,view of the ,cliffs 4444#ai ,san ,francisco ,peak 44444#ba ,cliff near ,fort ,wingate 44444#bb ,scenery on the ,high ,plateaus 444#bc ,the ,mogollon ,escarpment 4444#be ,snow-clad ,mountains on the ,river 44#bf ,our ,messenger 444444#bh ,apache ,basket 444444#bi ,our ,messenger's ,wife 44444#cj ,ruins of ,toyalone 44444#ca ,a ,zu ,court 4444444#cc ,adobe ,church1 ,zui 44444#cd ,the ,site of ,moenkopi 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cf ,mountain of the ,holy ,cross 444#ch ,wingate ,cliff 4444444#dj ,pyramid ,butte near ,fort ,wingate 44#da ,zui ,cliffs 4444444#db ,great ,neck ,nine ,miles ,south of ,salazar 4#dc ,cinder ,cone and ,neck1 ,northeast of ,grant ,station #dd ,two ,large ,necks1 the ,more ,distant ,one being the ,cabazon#de ,neck ,six ,miles ,northeast of ,juantafoya 44#df ,a ,group of ,necks near ,mount ,taylor 4#dg ,panorama from the ,edge of ,mount ,taylor ,mesa #dh ,panorama in the ,valley of the ,puerco 4#ej ,ruins at the ,head of ,mc,elmo ,canyon 4 4 4 #eb ,a ,navajo ,hogan 444444#ec ,an ,ancient ,coiled ,vase from ,tusayan 44#ed ,a ,typical ,cliff ,dwelling 4444#ef ,a ,room in a ,pueblo 44444#eg ,a ,navajo ,ready for a ,journey 444#eh ,a ,navajo ,boy 4444444#ei ,gardens of ,zui 444444#fj ,a ,tusayan ,ladder 444444#fa ,a ,zui ,stool 444444#fa ,x ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,,page ,a ,tusayan ,field ,shelter 44444#fb ,another ,tusayan ,field ,shelter 444#fc ,view of ,hano1 ,one of the ,seven ,pueblos of ,tusayan 4 #fd ,mesa ,verde 4 4 4 4 444 4 4 between #fd and #fe ,mount ,moran1 ,teton ,range1 ,wyoming 44#ff ,marble ,basins1 ,mammoth ,hot ,springs1 ,yellowstone ,park #fi ,terraced ,basins1 ,mammoth ,hot ,springs1 ,yellowstone ,park #gj ,tabernacle ,crater and ,lava ,beds of the ,basin ,province #gc ,view on ,great ,salt ,lake ,desert1 showing ,mountains half buried by ,lake ,sediments 44444#gd ,an ,indian ,hunter 444444#gf ,reservoir ,butte1 showing ,terraces of the ,ancient ,lake ,bonneville ,shorelines 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #gg ,pavant ,butte1 over a ,submarine ,volcano of the ,great ,basin #gh ,an ,indian ,camp 444444#gi ,indians ,gambling 444444#hj ,ruin near ,moenkopi 44444#ha ,ruins of ,payupki1 ,six ,miles ,northwest of ,mashongnavi1 ,tusayan 44 #hb ,shupaulovi 4444444#he ,general ,view of ,zui1 looking ,west 44#hf ,the ,gray ,cliffs 444444#hh ,section and ,bird's-eye ,view of the ,plateaus ,north of the ,grand ,canyon 444444#ij ,a ,group of ,stone ,corrals 4444#ia ,ruins 44444444#ib ,lagoon on the ,kaibab 44444#ie ,pink ,cliffs1 ,paunsagunt ,plateau 444#if ,a ,permian ,butte 444444#ii ,vermilion ,cliffs at ,kanab 44444#ajj ,a ,midsummerday's ,dream on the ,colob 4#ajc ,an ,indian ,village 444444#ajd ,antinaints1 ,putusiv1 and ,wichuts in ,festal ,dress 4 #aje ,perspective ,view of ,typical ,solitary ,house 4#ajf ,perspective ,view of ,round-,house ,structure of ,lava 4 #ajg ,an ,ancient ,cliff ,house 44444#ajh ,a ,zui ,eagle ,cage 44444#aji ,a ,view of ,zui 444444#aaj ,walpi ,dance ,rock 44444#aab ,a ,passageway in ,walpi 44444#aad ,a ,passageway in ,mashongnavi 444#aae ,the ,hurricane ,fault 44444 between #aad and #aae ,temples and ,towers of the ,rio ,virgen 4 between #aad and #aae ,towers of the ,vermilion ,cliffs 4444 between #aad and #aae ,panorama 4444444 between #aad and #aae ,terraced ,houses in ,zui 44444#aaf ,the ,start from ,green ,river ,station 44#aah ,view in ,sichumovi 444444#aba ,trail up ,walpi ,mesa 44444#abb ,ridges on ,bitter ,creek 44444#abc ,mesas 44444444#abd ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,,xi ,,page ,a ,valley ,west of ,green ,river 444#abe ,alcove ,lands 444444#abf ,bad ,lands 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #abg ,our ,indian ,guide 44444#abh ,our ,guide's ,boy 444444#abi ,green ,river ,plains 44444#acj ,the ,chief ,kiva of ,shupaulovi 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aca ,walpi 444444444#acb ,camp at ,flaming ,gorge 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #acd ,mashongnavi1 with ,shupaulovi in the ,distance 4 4 #ace ,horseshoe ,canyon 444444#acf ,scene in ,hano 444444#aci ,pescado ,pueblo1 ,outside ,steps 4444#adj ,oven near ,pescado ,pueblo 4444#ada ,primitive ,andiron in ,shumopavi 444#adb ,tusayan ,mealing-,stones 4444#adc ,kiva and ,stone ,corrals of ,mashongnavi 44#add ,hogbacks with ,intervening ,valleys 4#adf ,an ,ancient ,pueblo ,metate 4444#adh ,the ,home of the ,chief 4444#aej ,gate of ,lodore 4444444#aec ,wreck at ,disaster ,falls 4 4 4 4 4 4 #aee ,metalliferous ,veins exposed to ,view 44#aef ,winnie's ,grotto1 a ,side ,canyon 444#aei ,eroded ,towers capped with ,large ,blocks of ,sandstone 4 #afa ,fire in ,camp 444444#afb ,an ,isolated ,house at ,zui 4444#afd ,an ,oraibi ,court 444444#aff ,the ,rescue 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 444#afi ,echo ,park 4444444#agj ,fragment of ,wall1 ,zui 44444#aga ,kivas of ,shumopavi 44444#agb ,general ,view of ,awatubi 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #agc ,swallow ,cave 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #age ,view of ,shumopavi 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #agg ,ruins 4444444#agh1 #agi ,indian ,lodge in the ,uinta ,valley 444#aha ,warrior and ,bride 44444#ahc ,our ,interpreter and ,his ,family 444#ahe ,house ,building at ,oraibi 4444#ahf ,general ,view of ,ojo ,caliente 4444#ahh ,sumner's ,amphitheater 4444#aij ,chimneys and ,roofs1 ,zui 4444#aic ,a ,tusayan ,interior 44444#aid ,lighthouse ,rock1 ,canyon of ,desolation 44#aig ,gunnison ,butte1 ,gray ,canyon 444#aii ,ruins of ,ketchipauau 44444#bja ,bird's-eye ,view of the ,land of the ,standing ,rocks 4 #bjb ,the ,butte of the ,cross 44444#bjd ,land of the ,standing ,rocks 4 4 4 4 #bje ,,xii ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,,page ,moenkopi 4444444#bjg ,oraibi ,houses 4444444#bjh ,the ,heart of ,marble ,canyon 444#baj ,a ,lateral ,canyon4 444444#bac ,a ,tusayan ,mealing ,trough4 444#bae ,the ,heart of ,cataract ,canyon 4 4 4 4 4 #bag ,water ,basin in ,gypsum ,canyon 444#bai ,the ,water ,pocket ,canyon 4444#bba ,plan of the ,ruin of ,kiu-,tiel1 near ,tusayau 4 4 #bbb ,pescado ,houses 4444444#bbe ,repairing ,boats at the ,mouth of ,dirty ,devil ,river 4 #bbf ,ruins on the ,brink of ,glen ,canyon 44#bbh ,island ,monument iu ,glen ,canyon 444#bca ,glen ,canyon 4444444#bcb ,an ,enclosing ,wall of ,upright ,stones at ,ojo ,caliente #bce ,marble ,canyon 4444444#bcf ,noonday ,rest in ,marble ,canyon 44#bci ,view of ,marble ,canyon from ,vermilion ,cliffs 4 4 #bdj ,adobe ,walls1 ,zui 44444#bdc ,at the ,mouth of the ,little ,colorado 44#bdf ,walls of ,gneiss 444444#bdi ,running a ,rapid 444444#bej ,head of the ,grand ,canyon 4444#beb ,the ,inner ,gorge 444444#bed ,signal of ,discovery or ,alarm 4 4 4 4 4 #beg ,signal1 ,who are you8 ,answer1 ,pani 4 4 4 444#beh ,signal of ,successful ,war ,party 444#bfa ,a ,signal of ,peace 444444#bfb ,moki ,method of ,dressing the ,hair 44#bfe ,moki ,method of ,spinning 4444#bff ,an ,alcove in the ,red ,wall 444#bfi ,kanab ,canyon1 near the ,junction 444#bgj ,kanab ,canyon in the ,red ,wall ,limestone 4 4 #bgc ,the ,brink of the ,inner ,gorge 4444#bge ,the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado1 showing ,amphitheater and ,sculptured ,buttes 44444#bgf ,climbing the ,grand ,canyon ,wall 44#bgi ,triangulation ,station 44444#bha ,cavate ,houses 444444#bhc ,standing ,rocks 4444444#bhe ,mount ,trumbull1 from ,mount ,logan 44#bhh ,mary's ,veil1 the ,upper ,fall on ,pine ,creek 4 4 4 #bij ,filling's ,cascade1 the ,lower ,palls on ,pine ,creek 4 #bia ,aboriginal ,ladder 4 444 4 4 4 4 4 #bib ,another ,style of ,ladder 4444#bic ,entrance to ,parunuweap 44444#bie ,towers on the ,rio ,virgen 4444#bif ,mukuntuweap ,canyon 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bih ,the ,witches' ,water ,pocket 4444#cja ,wunavai ,gathering ,seeds 44444#cjb ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations4 ,xlll ,,page ,terrace ,fireplace and ,chimney of ,shumopavi 4 4 #cje ,a ,sweat ,house 4444444#cjf ,an ,interior ,lodge 444444#cji ,halved and ,pinned ,trapdoor ,frame of ,zu ,kiva 4 4 #caj ,wooden ,pivot ,hinges of a ,zui ,door 4#caj ,a ,poultry ,house of ,sichumovi resembling an ,oven 4 #cab ,the ,human ,pickle 44444#cad ,recent ,lava ,flow on the ,uinkaret 4 4 4 4 4 #cag ,a ,zui ,window glazed with ,selenite 44#cah ,a ,zui ,chair 4444444#cai ,an ,ancient ,circular ,doorway or ,stone ,close in ,kin-,tiel #cbj ,a ,gaming ,ring 444444#cbj ,interior ,view of a ,tusayan ,kiva 44#cbb ,cave ,lake in ,kanab ,canyon 4444#cbd ,ancient ,pottery from ,tusayan 444#cbf ,tusayan ,fetiches and ,implements 444#cbi ,dance ,paraphernalia from ,tusayan 44#ccb ,the ,thousand ,wells 44444#ccd ,terraced ,houses in ,oraibi showing ,entrance to ,kiva in ,foreground 44444444#cce ,the ,house of ,talti1 ,chief of the ,council in the ,town of ,oraibi #ccg ,praying for ,rain 444444#cci ,mashongnavi 4444444#cdj ,tusayan ,trays 4444444#cda ,tusayan ,maskettes 44444#cdc ,sichumovi and ,hano 44444#cdd ,walpi1 a ,village of ,tusayan 444#cdf ,tusayan ,basketry 4444#ccj1 #cdh1 #cdi ,zui from ,housetops1 looking ,east 44#cej ,navajo ,indian with ,silver ,ornaments 44#ceb ,bringing down the ,batten 4 4 4 4 #cec ,navajo ,church1 near ,fort ,wingate 444#ced ,round ,tower on a ,rock 4444#cee ,toyalone1 from the ,top of a ,house in ,zui 4#cef ,typical ,terraced ,communal ,pueblo 44#ceg ,dancer holding up the ,great ,plumed ,arrow 4#ceh ,dancer swallowing the ,great ,plumed ,arrow 4 #cei ,navajo ,woman weaving a ,belt 444#cfj ,navajo ,woman spinning 4444#cfa ,a ,room in a ,zui ,house 4444#cfb ,ashtishkee1 a ,navajo ,chief 4444#cfe ,navajo ,medicine ,lodge1 viewed from the ,south 4 4 #cff ,navajo ,medicine ,lodge1 viewed from the ,east 4 4 #cfg ,navajo ,fire ,dance 444444#cfh ,workshop of ,navajo ,silversmith 444#cfi ,zui ,woman weaving a ,belt 4444#cgj ,weaving of ,diamond-shaped ,diagonals 4#cga ,zui ,fetiches 4444444#cgb ,effigy ,pottery from ,zui 4444#cgc ,zui ,pottery 4444444#cgd ,,xiv ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,,page ,zui ,grails 4444444#cge ,culinary ,pottery from ,zu 4 4 4 4 4 4 #cgf ,navajo ,fabrics 444444#cgg ,the ,grand ,canyon 444444#cgh ,a ,gable with ,pinnacles 4444#cha ,niches or ,panels in the ,red ,wall ,limestone 4#chb ,bounded ,inward ,curves and ,projecting ,cusps of the ,walls 444#chd ,the ,eastern ,temple 444444#chg ,the ,western ,temple 44444#chh ,granite ,falls1 ,kaibab ,division1 ,grand ,canyon 4 4 #cia ,dikes in the ,canyon ,wall 4444#cib ,pinnacles of the ,kaibab 44444#cie ,vishnu's ,temple 444444#cif ,key to the ,panorama from ,point ,sublime1 looking ,east1 between #cif and 444#cig ,key to the ,panorama from ,point ,sublime1 looking ,west1 between 444#cif and 444#cig ,key to the ,panorama from ,point ,sublime1 looking ,south1 between 444#cif and 444#cig ,grand ,canyon at the ,foot of the ,toroweap1 looking ,east1 between 444#cif and 444#cig ,the ,great ,unconformity at the ,head of the ,grand ,canyon1 between 444#cif and 444#cig #af powell-canyons-#a4;jpg ,,the ,,colorado ,,river4 #ag ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,,the ,colorado ,river is formed by the junction of the ,grand and ,green4 ,the ,grand ,river has its source in the ,rocky ,mountains1 five or six miles west of ,long's ,peak4 ,a group of little alpine lakes1 that receive their waters directly from perpetual snowbanks1 discharge into a common reservoir known as ,grand ,lake1 a beautiful sheet of water4 ,its quiet surface reflects towering cliffs and crags of granite on its eastern shore1 and stately pines and firs stand on its western margin4 ,the ,green ,river heads near ,fremont's ,peak1 in the ,wind ,river ,mountains4 ,this river1 like the ,grand1 has its sources in alpine lakes fed by everlasting snows4 ,thousands of these little lakes1 with deep1 cold1 emerald waters1 are embosomed among the crags of the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,these streams1 born in the cold1 gloomy solitudes of the upper mountain region1 have a strange1 eventful history as they pass down through gorges1 tumbling in cascades and cataracts1 until they reach the hot1 arid plains of the ,lower ,colorado1 where the waters that were so clear above empty as turbid floods into the ,gulf of ,california4 ,the mouth of the ,colorado is in latitude #ca degrees #ec minutes and longitude #aae degrees4 ,the source of the ,grand ,river is in latitude #dj degrees #ag' and longitude #aje degrees #dc' approximately4 ,the source of the ,green ,river is in latitude #dc degrees #ae' and longitude #aji degrees #ed' approximately4 ,the ,green ,river is larger than the ,grand and is the upper continuation of the ,colorado4 ,including this river1 the whole length of #ah ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#b4;jpg ,,pa-,r-,,nu-,,weap ,,canyon4 the stream is about #b1jjj miles4 ,the region of country drained by the ,colorado and its tributaries is about #hjj miles in length and varies from #cjj to #ejj miles in width1 containing about #cjj1jjj square miles1 an area larger than all the ,new ,england and ,middle ,states with ,maryland1 ,virginia and ,west ,virginia added1 or nearly as large as ,minnesota1 ,wisconsin1 ,iowa1 ,illinois1 and ,missouri combined4 ,there are two distinct portions of the basin of the ,colorado1 a desert portion below and a plateau portion above4 ,the lower third1 or desert portion of the basin1 is but little above the level of the sea1 though here and there ranges of moun- ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 #ai tains rise to an altitude of from #b1jjj to #f1jjj feet4 ,this part of the valley is bounded on the northeast by a line of cliffs1 which present a bold1 often vertical step1 hundreds or thousands of feet to the table-lands above4 ,on the ,california side a vast desert stretches westward1 past the head of the ,gulf of ,california1 nearly to the shore of the ,pacific4 ,between the desert and the sea a narrow belt of valley1 hill1 and mountain of wonderful beauty is found4 ,over this coastal zone there falls a balm distilled from the great ocean1 as gentle showers and refreshing dews bathe the land4 ,when rains come the emerald hills laugh with delight as bourgeoning bloom is spread in the sunlight4 ,when the rains have ceased all the verdure turns to gold4 ,then slowly the hills are brinded powell-canyons-#c4;jpg ,,bird',s-,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,cliffs4 until the rains come again1 when verdure and bloom again peer through the tawny wreck of the last year's greenery4 ,north of the ,gulf of ,california the desert is known as ,coahuila ,valley1 the most desolate region on the continent4 ,at one time in the geologic history of this country the ,gulf of ,california extended a long distance farther to the northwest1 above the point where the ,colorado ,river now enters it2 but this stream brought its mud from the mountains and the hills above and poured it into the gulf and gradually erected a vast dam across it1 until the waters above were separated from the waters below2 then the ,colorado cut a channel into the lower gulf4 ,the upper waters1 being cut off from the sea1 gradually evaporated1 and what is known as ,coahuila ,valley was the bottom of this ancient upper gulf1 #bj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 and thus the land is now below the level of the sea4 ,between ,coahuila ,valley and the river there are many low1 ashen-gray mountains standing in short ranges4 ,the rainfall is so little that no perennial streams are formed4 ,when a great rain comes it washes the mountain sides and gathers on its way a deluge of sand1 which it spreads over the plain below1 for the streams do not carry the sediment to the sea4 ,so the mountains are washed down and the valleys are filled4 ,on the ,arizona side of the river desert plains are interrupted by desert mountains4 ,far to the eastward the country rises until the ,sierra ,madre are reached in ,new ,mexico1 where these mountains divide the waters of the ,colorado from the ,rio ,grande del ,norte4 ,here in ,new ,mexico the ,gila ,river has its source4 ,some of its tributaries rise in the mountains to the south1 in the territory belonging to the republic of ,mexico1 but the ,gila gathers the greater part of its waters from a great plateau on the northeast4 ,its sources are everywhere in pine-clad mountains and plateaus1 but all of the affluents quickly descend into the desert valley below1 through which the ,gila winds its way westward to the ,colorado4 ,in times of continued drought the bed of the ,gila is dry1 but the region is subject to great and violent storms1 and floods roll down from the heights with marvelous precipitation1 carrying devastation on their way4 ,where the ,colorado ,river forms the boundary between ,california and ,arizona it cuts through a number of volcanic rocks by black1 yawning canyons4 ,between these canyons the river has a low but rather narrow flood plain1 with cottonwood groves scattered here and there1 and a chaparral of mesquite bearing beans and thorns4 ,four hundred miles above its mouth and more than two hundred miles above the ,gila1 the ,colorado has a second tributary--,bill ,williams' ,river it is called by excessive courtesy4 ,it is but a muddy creek4 ,two hundred miles above this the ,rio ,virgen joins the ,colorado4 ,this river heads in the ,markagunt ,plateau and the ,pine ,valley ,mountains of ,utah4 ,its sources are #g1jjj or #h1jjj feet above the sea1 but from the beautiful course of the upper region it soon drops into a great sandy valley below and becomes a river of flowing sand4 ,at ordinary stages it is very wide but very shallow1 rippling over the quicksands in tawny waves4 ,on its way it cuts through the ,beaver ,mountains by a weird canyon4 ,on either side grease-wood plains stretch far away1 interrupted here and there by bad-land hills4 #ba powell-canyons-#d4;jpg ,,san ,,francisco ,,peak4 #bb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,the region of country lying on either side of the ,colorado for six hundred miles of its course above the gulf1 stretching to ,coahuila ,valley below on the west and to the highlands where the ,gila heads on the east1 is one of singular characteristics4 ,the plains and valleys are low1 arid1 hot1 and naked1 and the volcanic mountains scattered here and there are lone and desolate4 ,during the long months the sun pours its heat upon the rocks and sands1 untempered by clouds above or forest shades beneath4 ,the springs are so few in number that their names are household words in every ,indian rancheria and every #bc powell-canyons-#e4;jpg ,,cliff ,,near ,,fort ,,wingate4 settler's home2 and there are no brooks1 no creeks1 and no rivers but the trunk of the ,colorado and the trunk of the ,gila4 ,the few plants are strangers to the dwellers in the temperate zone4 ,on the mountains a few junipers and pions are found1 and cactuses1 agave1 and yuccas1 low1 fleshy plants with bayonets and thorns4 ,the landscape of vegetal life is weird--no forests1 no meadows1 no green hills1 no foliage1 but clublike stems of plants armed with stilettos4 ,many of the plants bear gorgeous flowers4 ,the birds are few1 but often of rich plumage4 ,hooded rattlesnakes1 horned toads1 and lizards crawl in the dust and among the rocks4 ,one of these lizards1 the ,gila monster1 is #bc powell-canyons-#f4;jpg ,,scenery ,,on ,,the ,,high ,,plateaus4 #bd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 poisonous4 ,rarely antelopes are seen1 but wolves1 rabbits1 and sundry ground squirrels abound4 ,the desert valley of the ,colorado1 which has been described as distinct from the plateau region above1 is the home of many ,indian tribes4 ,away up at the sources of the ,gila1 where the pines and cedars stand and where creeks and valleys are found1 is a part of the ,apache land4 ,these tribes extend far south into the republic of ,mexico4 ,the ,apaches are intruders in this country1 having at some time1 perhaps many centuries ago1 migrated from ,british ,america4 ,they speak an ,athapascan language4 ,the ,apaches and ,navajos are the ,american ,bedouins4 ,on their way from the far ,north they left several colonies in ,washington1 ,oregon1 and ,california4 ,they came to the country on foot1 but since the ,spanish invasion they have become skilled horsemen4 ,they are wily warriors and implacable enemies1 feared by all other tribes4 ,they are hunters1 warriors1 and priests1 these professions not yet being differentiated4 ,the cliffs of the region have many caves1 in which these people perform their religious rites4 ,the ,sierra ,madre formerly supported abundant game1 and the little ,sonora deer was common4 ,bears and mountain lions were once found in great numbers1 and they put the courage and prowess of the ,apaches to a severe test4 ,huge rattlesnakes are common1 and the rattlesnake god is one of the deities of the tribes4 ,in the valley of the ,gila and on its tributaries from the northeast are the ,pimas1 ,maricopas1 and ,papagos4 ,they are skilled agriculturists1 cultivating lands by irrigation4 ,in the same region many ruined villages are found4 ,the dwellings of these towns in the valley were built chiefly of grout1 and the fragments of the ancient pueblos still remaining have stood through centuries of storm4 ,other pueblos near the cliffs on the northeast were built of stone4 ,the people who occupied them cultivated the soil by irrigation1 and their hydraulic works were on an extensive scale4 ,they built canals scores of miles in length and built reservoirs to store water4 ,they were skilled workers in pottery4 ,from the fibers of some of the desert plants they made fabrics with which to clothe themselves1 and they cultivated cotton4 ,they were deft artists in picture-writings1 which they etched on the rocks4 ,many interesting vestiges of their ancient art remain1 testifying to their skill as savage #be powell-canyons-#g4;jpg ,,the ,,mogollon ,,escarpment4 #bf powell-canyons-#h4;jpg ,,snow-,,clad ,,mountains ,,on ,,the ,,river4 ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 #bg artisans4 ,it seems probable that the ,pimas1 ,maricopas1 and ,papagos are the same people who built the pueblos and constructed the irrigation works2 so their traditions state4 ,it is also handed down that the pueblos were destroyed in wars with the ,apaches4 ,in these groves of the flood plain of the ,colorado the ,mojave and ,yuma ,indians once had their homes4 ,they caught fish from the river and snared a few rabbits in the desert1 but lived mainly on mesquite beans1 the hearts of yucca plants1 and the fruits of the cactus4 ,they also gathered a harvest from the river reeds4 ,to some slight extent they cultivated the soil by rude irrigation and raised corn and squashes4 ,they lived almost naked1 for the climate is warm and dry4 ,sometimes a year passes without a drop of rain4 ,still farther to the north the ,chemehuevas lived1 partly along the river and partly in the mountains to the west1 where a few springs are found4 ,they belong to the great ,shoshonian family4 ,on the ,rio ,virgen and in the mountains round about1 a confederacy of tribes speaking the ,ute language and belonging to the ,shoshonian family have their homes4 ,these people built their sheltering homes of boughs and the bast of the juniper4 ,in such shelters1 they lived in winter1 but in summer they erected extensive booths of poles and willows1 sometimes large enough for the accommodation of a tribe of #ajj or #bjj persons4 ,a wide gap in culture separates the ,pimas1 ,maricopas1 and ,papagos from the ,chemehuevas4 ,the first were among the most advanced tribes found in the ,united ,states2 the last were among the very lowest2 they are the original ,digger ,indians1 called so by all the other tribes1 but the name has gradually spread beyond its original denotation to many tribes of ,utah1 ,nevada1 and ,california4 ,the low desert1 with its desolate mountains1 which has thus been described is plainly separated from the upper region of plateau by the ,mogollon ,escarpment1 which1 beginning in the ,sierra ,madre of ,new ,mexico1 extends northwestward across the ,colorado far into ,utah1 where it ends on the margin of the ,great ,basin4 ,the rise by this escarpment varies from #c1jjj to more than #d1jjj feet4 ,the step from the lowlands to the highlands which is here called the ,mogollon ,escarpment is not a simple line of cliffs1 but is a complicated and irregular facade presented to the southwest4 ,its different portions have been named by the people living below as distinct mountains1 as ,shiwits ,mountains1 ,mogollon #bh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,mountains1 ,pial ,mountains1 ,sierra ,calitro1 etc41 but they all rise to the summit of the same great plateau region4 ,the upper region1 extending to the headwaters of the ,grand and ,green ,rivers1 constitutes the great ,plateau ,province4 ,these plateaus are drained by the ,colorado ,river and its tributaries2 the eastern and powell-canyons-#i4;jpg ,,our ,,messenger4 southern margin by the ,rio ,grande and its tributaries1 and the western by streams that flow into the ,great ,basin and are lost in the ,great ,salt ,lake and other bodies of water that have no drainage to the sea4 ,the general surface of this upper region is from #e1jjj to #h1jjj feet above sea level1 though the channels of the streams are cut much lower4 ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 #bi ,this high region1 on the east1 north1 and west1 is set with ranges of snow-clad mountains attaining an altitude above the sea varying from #h1jjj to #ad1jjj feet4 ,all winter long snow falls on its mountain-crested rim1 filling the gorges1 half burying the forests1 and covering the crags and peaks with a mantle woven by the winds from the waves of the sea4 ,when the summer sun comes this snow melts and tumbles down the mountain sides in millions of cascades4 ,a million cascade brooks unite to form a thousand torrent creeks2 a thousand torrent creeks unite to form half a hundred rivers beset with cataracts2 half a hundred roaring rivers unite to form the ,colorado1 which rolls1 a mad1 turbid stream1 into the ,gulf of ,california4 ,consider the action of one of these streams4 ,its source is in the mountains1 where the snows fall2 its course1 through the arid plains4 ,now1 if at the river's flood storms were falling on the plains1 its channel would be cut but little faster than the adjacent country would be washed1 and the general level would thus be preserved2 but under the conditions here mentioned1 the river4 continually deepens its beds2 so all the streams cut deeper and still deeper1 until their banks are towering cliffs of solid rock4 ,these deep1 narrow gorges are called canyons4 ,for more than a thousand miles along its course the ,colorado has cut for itself such a canyon2 but at some few points where lateral streams join it the canyon is broken1 and these narrow1 transverse valleys divide it into a series of canyons4 ,the ,virgen1 ,kanab1 ,paria1 ,escalante1 ,fremont1 ,san ,rafael1 ,price1 and ,uinta on the west1 the ,grand1 ,white1 ,yampa1 ,san ,juan1 and ,colorado ,chiquito on the east1 have also cut for themselves such narrow winding gorges1 or deep canyons4 ,every river entering these has cut another canyon2 every lateral creek has cut a canyon2 every brook runs in a canyon2 every rill born of a shower and born again of a shower and living only during these showers has cut for itself a canyon2 so that powell-canyons-#aj4;jpg ,,apache ,,basket #cj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the whole upper portion of the basin of the ,colorado is traversed by a labyrinth of these deep gorges4 ,owing to a great variety of geological conditions1 these canyons differ much in general aspect4 ,the ,rio ,virgen1 between ,long ,valley and the ,mormon town of ,rockville1 runs through ,parunuweap ,can- #ca powell-canyons-#aa4;jpg ,,our ,,messenger',s ,,wife4 yon1 which is often not more than #bj or #cj feet in width and is from #fjj to #a1ejj feet deep4 ,away to the north the ,yampa empties into the ,green by a canyon that ,i essayed to cross in the fall of #ahfh1 but was baffled from day to day1 and the fourth day had nearly passed before ,i could find my way down to the river4 ,but thirty miles above its mouth this canyon ends1 and a narrow valley with a flood plain #ca powell-canyons-#ab4;jpg ,,ruins ,,of ,,toyalone4 #cb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 is found4 ,still farther up the stream the river comes down through another canyon1 and beyond that a narrow valley is found1 and its upper course is now through a canyon and now through a valley4 ,all these canyons are alike changeable in their topographic characteristics4 ,the longest canyon through which the ,colorado runs is that between the mouth of the ,colorado ,chiquito and the ,grand ,wash1 a distance of #bag #a_/b miles4 ,but this is separated from another above1 #fe #a_/b miles in length1 only by the narrow canyon valley of the ,colorado ,chiquito4 ,all the scenic features of this canyon land are on a giant scale1 strange and weird4 ,the streams run at depths almost inaccessible1 lashing the rocks which beset their channels1 rolling in rapids and plunging in falls1 and making a wild music which but adds to the gloom of the solitude4 ,the little valleys nestling along the streams are diversified by bordering willows1 clumps of box elder1 and small groves of cottonwood4 ,low mesas1 dry1 treeless1 stretch back from the brink of the canyon1 often showing smooth surfaces of naked1 solid rock4 ,in some places the country rock is composed of marls1 and here the surface is a bed of loose1 disintegrated material through which one walks as in a bed of ashes4 ,often these marls are richly colored and variegated4 ,in other places the country rock is a loose sandstone1 the disintegration of which has left broad stretches of drifting sand1 white1 golden1 and vermilion4 ,where this sandstone is a conglomerate1 a paving of pebbles has been left1--a mosaic of many colors1 polished by the drifting sands and glistening in the sunlight4 ,after the canyons1 the most remarkable features of the country are the long lines of cliffs4 ,these are bold escarpments scores or hundreds of miles in length1--great geographic steps1 often hundreds or thousands of feet in altitude1 presenting steep faces of rock1 often vertical4 ,having climbed one of these steps1 you may descend by a gentle1 sometimes imperceptible1 slope to the foot of another4 ,they thus present a series of terraces1 the steps of which are well-defined escarpments of rock4 ,the lateral extension of such a line of cliffs is usually very irregular2 sharp salients are projected on the plains below1 and deep recesses are cut into the terraces above4 ,intermittent streams coming #cc powell-canyons-#ac4;jpg ,a ,,zu,i ,,court4 #cd powell-canyons-#ad4;jpg ,,adobe ,,church--,,zu,i4 ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 #ce down the cliffs have cut many canyons or canyon valleys1 by which the traveler may pass from the plain below to the terrace above4 ,by these gigantic stairways he may ascend to high plateaus1 covered with forests of pine and fir4 ,the region is further diversified by short ranges of eruptive mountains4 ,a vast system of fissures--huge cracks in the rocks to the depths below--extends across the country4 ,from these crevices floods of lava have poured1 covering mesas and table-lands with sheets of black basalt4 ,the expiring energies of these volcanic agencies have piled up huge cinder cones that stand along the fissures1 red1 brown1 and black1 naked of vegetation1 and conspicuous landmarks1 set as they are in contrast to the bright1 variegated rocks of sedimentary origin4 #cf ,these canyon gorges1 obstructing cliffs1 and desert wastes have prevented the traveler from penetrating the country1 so that until the ,colorado ,river ,exploring ,expedition was organized it was almost unknown4 ,in the early history of the country ,spanish adventurers penetrated the region and told marvelous stories of its wonders4 ,it was also traversed by priests who sought to convert the ,indian tribes to ,christianity4 ,in later days1 since the region has been under the control of the ,united ,states1 various government expeditions have penetrated the land4 ,yet enough had been seen in the earlier days to foment rumor1 and many wonderful stories were told in the hunter's cabin and the prospector's camp--stories of parties entering the gorge in boats and being carried down with fearful velocity into whirlpools where all were overwhelmed in the abyss of waters1 and stories of underground passages for the great river into which boats had passed never to be seen again4 ,it was currently believed that the river was lost under the rocks for several hundred miles4 ,there were other accounts of great falls whose roaring music could be heard on the distant mountain summits2 and there were stories current of parties wandering on the brink of the canyon and vainly endeavoring to reach the waters below1 and perishing with thirst at last in sight of the river which was roaring its mockery into their dying ears4 ,the ,indians1 too1 have woven the mysteries of the canyons into the myths of their religion4 ,long ago there was a great and wise chief who mourned the death of his wife and would not be comforted1 #cf powell-canyons-#ae4;jpg ,,the ,,site ,,of ,,moenkopi4 ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 #cg until ,tavwoats1 one of the ,indian gods1 came to him and told him his wife was in a happier land1 and offered to take him there that he might see for himself1 if1 upon his return1 he would cease to mourn4 ,the great chief promised4 ,then ,tavwoats made a trail through the mountains that intervene between that beautiful land1 the balmy region of the great west1 and this1 the desert home of the poor ,numa4 ,this trail was the canyon gorge of the ,colorado4 ,through it he led him2 and when they had returned the deity exacted from the chief a promise that he would tell no one of the trail4 ,then he rolled a river into the gorge1 a mad1 raging stream1 that should engulf any that might attempt to enter thereby4 #ch powell-canyons-#af4;jpg ,,mountain ,,of ,,the ,,holy ,,cross4 #ci ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 ,,from the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado a great plateau extends southeastward through ,arizona nearly to the line of ,new ,mexico1 where this elevated land merges into the ,sierra ,madre4 ,the general surface of this plateau is from #f1jjj to #h1jjj feet above the level of the sea4 ,it is sharply defined from the lowlands of ,arizona by the ,mogollon ,escarpment4 ,on the northeast it gradually falls off into the valley of the ,little ,colorado1 and on the north it terminates abruptly in the ,grand ,canyon4 ,various tributaries of the ,gila have their sources in this escarpment1 and before entering the desolate valley below they run in beautiful canyons which they have carved for themselves in the margin of the plateau4 ,sometimes these canyons are in the sandstones and limestones which constitute the platform of the great elevated region called the ,san ,francisco ,plateau4 ,the escarpment is caused by a fault1 the great block of the upper side being lifted several thousand feet above the valley region4 ,through the fissure lavas poured out1 and in many places the escarpment is concealed by sheets of lava4 ,the canyons in these lava beds are often of great interest4 ,on the plateau a number of volcanic mountains are found1 and black cinder cones are scattered in profusion4 ,through the forest lands are many beautiful prairies and glades that in midsummer are decked with gorgeous wild flowers4 ,the rains of the region give source to few perennial streams1 but intermittent streams have carved deep gorges in the plateau1 so that it is divided into many blocks4 ,the upper surface1 although forest-clad and covered with beautiful grasses1 is almost destitute of water4 ,a few springs are found1 but they are far apart1 and some of the volcanic craters hold lakelets4 ,the limestone and basaltic rocks sometimes hold pools of water2 and where the basins #dj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 are deep the waters are perennial4 ,such pools are known as water pockets4 ,this is the great timber region of ,arizona4 ,not many years ago it was a vast park for elk1 deer1 and antelope1 and bears and mountain lions were abundant4 ,this is the last home of the wild turkey in the powell-canyons-#ag4;jpg ,,wingate ,,cliff4 ,united ,states1 for they are still found here in great numbers4 ,san ,francisco ,peak is the highest of these volcanic mountains1 and about it are grouped in an irregular way many volcanic cones1 one of which presents some remarkable characteristics4 ,a portion of the cone is of bright reddish cinders1 while the adjacent rocks are of black basalt4 ,the contrast in the colors is so great that on viewing the mountain from a distance the red cinders seem to be on fire4 ,from this circumstance the cone has been named ,sunset ,peak4 ,when distant from it ten or twenty miles it is hard to believe that the effect is produced by contrasting colors1 for the peak seems to glow with a light of its own4 ,in centuries past the ,san ,francisco ,plateau was the home of pueblo-building tribes1 and the ruins of their habitations are widely scattered over this elevated region4 ,thousands of little dwellings are found1 usually built of blocks of basalt4 ,in some cases they were clustered in little towns1 and three of these deserve further mention4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #da ,a few miles south of ,san ,francisco ,peak there is an intermittent stream known as ,walnut ,creek4 ,this stream runs in a deep gorge #fjj to #hjj feet below the general surface4 ,the stream has cut its way through the limestone and through series of sandstones1 and bold walls of rock are presented on either side4 ,in some places the softer sandstones lying between the harder limestones and sandstones have yielded to weathering agencies1 so that there are caves running along the face of the wall1 sometimes for hundreds or thousands of feet1 but not very deep4 ,these natural shelves in the rock were utilized by an ancient tribe of ,indians for their homes4 ,they built stairways to the waters below and to the hunting grounds above1 and lived in the caves4 ,they walled the fronts of the caves with rock1 which they covered with plaster1 and divided them into compartments or rooms2 and now many hundreds of these dwellings are found4 ,such is the cliff village of powell-canyons-#ah4;jpg ,,pyramid ,,butte ,,near ,,fort ,,wingate4 ,walnut ,canyon4 ,in the ruins of these cliff houses mortars and pestles are found in great profusion1 and when first discovered many articles of pottery were found1 and still many potsherds are seen4 ,the people were #db ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 very skillful in the manufacture of stone implements1 especially spears1 knives1 and arrows4 ,east of ,san ,francisco ,peak there is another low volcanic cone1 composed of ashes which have been slightly cemented by the processes of time1 but which can be worked with great ease4 ,on this cone another tribe of ,indians made its village1 and for the purpose they sunk shafts into the easily worked but partially consolidated ashes1 and after penetrating from the surface three or four feet they enlarged the chambers so as to make them ten or twelve feet in diameter4 ,in such a chamber they made a little fireplace1 its chimney running up on one side of the powell-canyons-#ai4;jpg ,,zu,i ,,cliffs4 wellhole by which the chamber was entered4 ,often they excavated smaller chambers connected with the larger1 so that sometimes two1 three1 four1 or even five smaller connecting chambers are grouped about a large central room4 ,the arts of these people resembled those of the people who dwelt in ,walnut ,canyon4 ,one thing more is worthy of special notice4 ,on the very top of the cone they cleared off a space for a courtyard1 or assembly square1 and about it they erected booths1 and ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #dc within the square a space of ground was prepared with a smooth floor1 on which they performed the ceremonies of their religion and danced to the gods in prayer and praise4 ,some twelve or fifteen miles farther east1 in another volcanic cone1 a rough crater is found1 surrounded by piles of cinders and angular powell-canyons-#bj4;jpg ,,great ,,neck ,,nine ,,miles ,,south ,,of ,,salazar4 fragments of lava4 ,in the walls of this crater many caves are found1 and here again a village was established1 the caves in the scoria being utilized as habitations of men4 ,these little caves were fashioned into rooms of more symmetry and convenience than originally found1 and the openings to the caves were walled4 ,nor did these people neglect the gods1 for in this crater town1 as in the cinder-cone town1 a place of worship was prepared4 ,many other caves opening into the canyon and craters of this plateau were utilized in like manner as homes for tribal people1 and in one cave far to the south a fine collection of several hundred pieces of pottery has been made4 #dd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,on the northeast of the ,san ,francisco ,plateau is the valley of the ,little ,colorado1 a tributary of the ,colorado ,river4 ,this river is formed by streams that head chiefly on the ,san ,francisco ,plateau1 but in part on the ,zui ,plateau4 ,the ,little ,colorado is a marvelous river4 ,in seasons of great rains it is a broad but shallow torrent of mud2 in seasons of drought it dwindles and sometimes entirely disappears along portions of its course4 ,the upper tributaries usually run in beautiful box canyons4 ,then the river flows through a low1 desolate1 bad-land valley1 and the river of mud is broad but shallow1 except in seasons of great floods4 ,but fifty miles or more above the junction of this stream with the ,colorado ,river proper1 it plunges into a canyon powell-canyons-#ba4;jpg ,,cinder ,,cone ,,and ,,neck ,,northeast ,,of ,,grant ,,station4 with limestone walls1 and steadily this canyon increases in depth1 until at the mouth of the stream it has walls more than #d1jjj feet in height4 ,the contrast between this canyon portion and the upper ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #de valley portion is very great4 ,above1 the river ripples in a broad sheet of mud2 below1 it plunges with violence over great cataracts and rapids4 ,above1 the bad lands stretch on either hand4 ,this is powell-canyons-#bb4;jpg ,,two ,,large ,,necks1 ,,the ,,more ,,distant ,,one ,,being ,,the ,,cabazon4 ,,mesas ,,in ,,the ,,foreground4 the region of the ,painted ,desert1 for the marls and soft rocks of which the hills are composed are of many colors--chocolate1 red1 vermilion1 pink1 buff1 and gray2 and the naked hills are carved in fantastic forms4 ,passing to the region below1 suddenly the channel is narrowed and tumbles down into a deep1 solemn gorge with towering limestone cliffs4 ,all round the margin of the valley of the ,little ,colorado1 on the side next to the ,zui ,plateau and on the side next to the ,san ,francisco ,plateau1 every creek and every brook runs in a beautiful canyon4 ,then down in the valley there are stretches of desert covered with sage and grease wood4 ,still farther down we come to the bad lands of the ,painted ,desert2 and scattered through the entire region low mesas or smaller plateaus are everywhere found4 ,on the northeast side of the ,little ,colorado a great mesa country stretches far to the northward4 ,these mesas are but minor plateaus that are separated by canyons and canyon valleys1 and sometimes by #df ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 low sage plains4 ,they rise from a few hundred to #b1jjj or #c1jjj feet above the lowlands on which they are founded4 ,the distinction between plateaus and mesas is vague2 in fact1 in local usage the term mesa is usually applied to all of these tables which do not carry volcanic moun- powell-canyons-#bc4;jpg ,,neck ,,six ,,miles ,,northeast ,,of ,,juantafoya4 tains4 ,the mesas are carved out of platforms of horizontal or nearly horizontal rocks by perennial or intermittent streams1 and as the climate is exceedingly arid most of the streams flow only during seasons of rain1 and for the greater part of the year they are dry arroyos4 ,many of the longer channels are dry for long periods4 ,some of them are opened only by floods that come ten or twenty years apart4 ,the region is also characterized by many buttes4 ,these are plateaus or mesas of still smaller dimensions in horizontal distance1 though their altitude may be hundreds or thousands of feet4 ,like the mesas and plateaus1 they sometimes form very conspicuous features of a landscape and are of marvelous beauty by reason of their sculptured escarpments4 ,below they are often buttressed on a magnificent scale4 ,softer beds give rise to a vertical structure of buttresses and columns1 while the harder strata appear in great horizontal lines1 suggesting ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #dg architectural entablature4 ,then the strata of which these buttes are composed are of many vivid colors2 so color and form unite in producing architectural effects1 and the buttes often appear like ,cyclopean temples4 ,there is yet one other peculiarity of this landscape deserving mention here4 ,before the present valleys and canyons were carved and the mesas lifted in relief1 the region was one of great volcanic activity4 ,in various places vents were formed and floods of lava poured in sheets over the land4 ,then for a time volcanic action ceased1 and rains and rivers carved out the valleys and left the mesas and mountains standing4 ,these same agencies carried away the lava beds that spread over the lands4 ,but wherever there was a lava vent it was filled with molten matter1 which on cooling was harder than the sandstones and marls through which it penetrated4 ,the chimney to the region of fire below was thus filled with a black rock which yielded more #dh powell-canyons-#bd4;jpg ,a ,,group ,,of ,,necks ,,near ,,mount ,,taylor4 slowly to the disintegrating agencies of weather1 and so black rocks rise up from mesas on every hand4 ,these are known as volcanic necks1 and1 being of a somber color1 in great contrast with the vividly colored rocks from which they rise and by which they are surrounded1 they #dh powell-canyons-#be4;jpg ,,panorama ,,from ,,the ,,edge ,,of ,,mount ,,taylor ,,mesa4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #di lend a strange aspect to the landscape4 ,besides these necks1 there are a few volcanic mountains that tower over all the landscape and gather about themselves the clouds of heaven4 ,mount ,taylor1 which stands over the divide on the drainage of the ,rio ,grande del ,norte1 is one of the most imposing of the dead volcanoes of this region4 ,still later eruptions of lava are found here and there1 and in the present valleys and canyons sheets of black basalt are often found4 ,these are known as coulees1 and sometimes from these coulees cinder cones arise4 ,this valley of the ,little ,colorado is also the site of many ruins1 and the villages or towns found in such profusion were of mueh larger size than those on the ,san ,francisco ,plateau4 ,some of the pueblo-building peoples yet remain4 ,the ,zui ,indians still occupy their homes1 and they prove to be a most interesting people4 ,they have cultivated the soil from time immemorial4 ,they build their houses of stone and line them with plaster2 and they have many interesting arts1 being skilled potters and deft weavers4 ,the seasons are about equally divided between labor1 worship1 and play4 #ej ,a hundred miles to the northwest of the ,zu pueblo are the seven pueblos of ,tusayan3 ,oraibi1 ,shumopavi1 ,shupaulovi1 ,mashongnavi1 ,sichumovi1 ,walpi1 and llano4 ,these towns are built on high cliffs4 ,the people speak a language radically different from that of the ,zui1 but1 with the exception of that of the inhabitants of ,hano1 closely allied to that of the ,utes4 ,the people of ,hano are ,tewans1 whose ancestors moved from the ,rio ,grande to ,tusayan during the great ,pueblo revolt against ,spanish authority in #afhj-if4 ,between the ,little ,colorado and the ,rio ,san ,juan there is a vast system of plateaus1 mesas1 and buttes1 volcanic mountains1 volcanic cones1 and volcanic cinder cones4 ,some of the plateaus are forest-clad and have perennial waters and are gemmed with lakelets4 ,the mesas are sometimes treeless1 but are often covered with low1 straggling1 gnarled cedars and pifions1 trees that are intermediate in size between the bushes of sage in the desert and the forest trees of the elevated regions4 ,on the western margin of this district the great ,navajo ,mountain stands1 on the brink of ,glen ,canyon1 and from its summit many of the stupendous gorges of the ,colorado ,river can be seen4 ,central in the region stand the ,carrizo ,mountains1 the ,lukachukai #ej powell-canyons-#bf4;jpg ,,panorama ,,in ,,the ,,valley ,,of ,,the ,,puerco4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #ea ,mountains1 the ,tunitcha ,mountains1 and the ,chusca ,mountains1 which in fact constitute one system1 extending from north to south in the order named4 ,these are really plateaus crowned with volcanic peaks4 ,but the district we are now describing1 which stretches from the ,little ,colorado to the ,san ,juan1 is best characterized by its canyons4 ,the whole region is a labyrinth of gorges4 ,on the west the ,navajo ,creek and its tributaries run in profound chasms4 ,farther south the ,moencopie with its tributaries is a labyrinth of gorges2 and all the streams that run west into the ,colorado1 south into the ,little ,colorado1 or north into the ,san ,juan have carved deep1 wild1 and romantic gorges4 ,immediately west of the ,chusca ,plateau the ,canyon del ,muerta and the ,canyon de ,chelly are especially noticeable4 ,many of these canyons are carved in a homogeneous red sandstone1 and their walls are often vertical for hundreds of feet4 ,sometimes the canyons widen into narrow valleys1 which are thus walled by impassable cliffs1 except where lateral canyons cut their way through the battlements4 ,in these mountains1 plateaus1 mesas1 and canyons the ,navajo ,indians have their home4 ,the ,navajos are intruders in this country4 ,they belong to the ,athapascan stock of ,british ,america and speak an ,athapascan language1 like the ,apaches of the ,sierra ,madre country4 ,they are a stately1 athletic1 and bold people4 ,while yet this country was a part of ,mexico they acquired great herds of horses and flocks of sheep1 and lived in opulence compared with many of the other tribes of ,north ,america4 ,after the acquisition of this territory by the ,united ,states they became disaffected by reason of encroaching civilization1 and the petty wars between ,united ,states troops and the ,navajos were in the main disastrous to our forces1 due in part to the courage1 skill1 and superior numbers of the ,navajos and in part to the character of the country1 which is easily defended1 as the routes of travel along the canyons present excellent opportunities for defense and ambuscade4 ,but under the leadership and by the advice of ,kit ,carson these ,indians were ultimately conquered4 ,this wily but brave frontiersman recommended a new method of warfare1 which was to destroy the herds and flocks of the ,navajos2 and this course was pursued4 ,regular troops with volunteers from ,california and ,new ,mexico went into the ,navajo country and shot down their herds of half-wild horses1 #eb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 killed hundreds of thousands of sheep1 cut down their peach orchards which were scattered about the springs and little streams1 destroyed their irrigating works1 and devastated their little patches of corn1 squashes1 and melons2 and entirely neglected the ,navajos themselves1 who were concealed among the rocks of the canyons4 ,seeing the destruction wrought upon their means of livelihood1 the ,navajos at once yielded4 ,more than #h1jjj of them surrendered at one time1 coming in in straggling bands4 ,they were then removed far to the east1 near to the ,texas line1 and established on a reservation at the ,bosque ,redondo4 ,here they engaged in civilized farming4 ,a great system powell-canyons-#bg4;jpg ,,ruins ,,at ,,the ,,head ,,of ,,mcelmo ,,canyon4 of irrigation was developed2 but the appropriations necessary for the maintenance of so large a body of people in the course of their passage from savagery to civilization seemed too great to those responsible for making grants from the national treasury1 and just before #ahgj the ,navajos were permitted to break up their homes at the ,bosque ,redondo and return to the canyons and cliffs of their ancient land4 ,millions were spent in conquering them where thousands were used to civilize them1 so that they were conquered but not civilized4 ,still1 they are making good progress1 and have once more acquired large flocks and herds4 ,it is estimated that they now have more than a million sheep4 ,their experience in irrigation at the ,bosque ,redondo has ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #ec not been wholly wasted1 for they now cultivate the soil by methods of irrigation greatly improved over those used in the earlier time4 ,originally they dwelt in hogans1 or houses made of poles arranged with much skill in conical form1 the poles being covered with reeds and the reeds with earth2 now they are copying the dwelling places of civilized men4 ,they have also acquired great skill in the manufacture of silver ornaments1 with which they decorate themselves and the trappings of their steeds4 ,perhaps the most interesting ruins of ,america are found in this region4 ,the ancient pueblos found here are of superior structure1 but powell-canyons-#bh4;jpg ,a ,,navajo ,,hogan4 they were all built by a people whom the ,navajos displaced when they migrated from the far ,north4 ,wherever there is water1 near by an ancient ruin may be found2 and these ruins are gathered about centers1 the centers being larger pueblos and the scattered ruins representing single houses4 ,the ancient people lived in villages1 or pueblos1 but during the growing season they scattered about by the springs and streams to cultivate the soil by irrigation1 and wherever there was a little farm or garden patch1 there was built a summer house of stone4 ,when times of war came1 especially when they were invaded by the ,navajos1 these ancient people left their homes in the pueblos and by the streams and constructed temporary homes in the cliffs and canyon #ed ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 walls4 ,such cliff ruins are abundant throughout the region1 intimately the ancient pueblo peoples succumbed to the prowess of the ,navajos and were driven out4 ,a part joined related tribes in the valley of the ,bio ,grande2 others joined the ,zui and the people of ,tusayan2 and stall others pushed on beyond the ,little ,colorado to the ,san ,francisco ,plateau and far down into the valley of the ,gila4 powell-canyons-#bi4;jpg ,,an ,,ancient ,,coiled ,,vase ,,from ,,tusayan4 ,farther to the east1 on the border of the region which we have described1 beyond the drainage of the ,little ,colorado and ,san ,juan and within the drainage of the ,rio ,grande1 there lies an interesting plateau region1 which forms a part of the ,plateau ,province and which is worthy of description4 ,this is the great ,tewan ,plateau1 which carries several groups of mountains4 ,the western edge of this plateau is known as the ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #ee ,nacimiento ,mountain1 a long north-and-south range of granite1 which presents a bold facade to the valley of the ,puerco on the west4 ,ascending to the summit of this granite range1 there is presented to the eastward a plateau of vast proportions1 which stretches far toward ,santa ,fe and is terminated by the canyon of the ,rio ,grande del ,norte4 ,the eastern flank of this range as it slowly rose was a gentle slope1 but as it came up fissures were formed and volcanoes burst forth and poured out their floods of lava1 and now many extinct volcanoes can be seen4 ,the plateau was built by these volcanoes--sheets of lava piled on sheets of lava hundreds and even thousands of feet in thickness4 ,but with the floods of lava came great explosions1 like that of ,krakatoa1 by which the heavens were filled with volcanic dust4 ,these explosions came at different times and at different places1 but they were of enormous magnitude1 and when the dust fell again from the clouds it piled up in beds scores and hundreds of feet in thickness4 ,so the ,tewan ,plateau has a foundation of red sandstone2 upon this are piled sheets of lava and sheets of dust in many alternating layers4 ,it is estimated that there still remain more than two hundred cubic miles of this dust1 now compacted into somewhat coherent rocks and interpolated between sheets of lava4 ,everywhere this dust-formed rock is exceedingly light4 ,much of it has a specific gravity so low that it will float on water4 ,above the sheets of lava and above the beds of volcanic dust great volcanic cones rise1 and the whole upper region is covered with forests interspersed with beautiful prairies4 ,the plateau itself is intersected with many deep1 narrow canyons1 having walls of lava1 volcanic dust1 or tufa1 and red sandstone4 ,it is a beautiful region4 ,the low mesas on every side are almost treeless and are everywhere deserts1 but the great ,tewan ,plateau is booned with abundant rains1 and it is thus a region of forests and meadows1 divided into blocks by deep1 precipitous canyons and crowned with cones that rise to an altitude of from #aj1jjj to #ab1jjj feet4 ,for many centuries the ,tewan ,plateau1 with its canyons below and its meadows and forests above1 has been the home of tribes of ,tewan ,indians1 who built pueblos1 sometimes of the red sandstones in the canyons1 but oftener of blocks of tufa1 or volcanic dust4 ,this light material can be worked with great ease1 and with crude tools of the #ef ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 harder lavas they cut out blocks of the tufa and with them built pueblos two or three stories high4 ,the blocks are usually about twenty inches in length1 eight inches in width1 and six inches in thickness1 though they vary somewhat in size4 ,on the volcanic cones which dominate the country these people built shrines and worshiped their gods with offerings of meal and water and with prayer symbols made of the plumage of the birds of the air4 ,when the ,navajo invasion came1 by which kindred tribes were displaced from the district farther west1 these ,tewan ,indians left their pueblos on the plateau and their dwellings by the rivers below in the depths of the canyon and constructed cavate homes for themselves2 that is1 they excavated chambers in the cliffs where these cliffs were composed of soft1 friable tufa4 ,on the face of the cliff1 hundreds of feet high and thousands of feet or even miles in length1 they dug out chambers with stone tools1 these chambers being little rooms eight or ten feet in diameter4 ,sometimes two or more such chambers connected4 ,then they constructed stairways in the soft rock1 by which their cavate houses were reached2 and in these rock shelters they lived during times powell-canyons-#cj4;jpg ,a ,,typical ,,cliff ,,dwelling4 #eg powell-canyons-#ca4;jpg ,a ,,room ,,in ,a ,,pueblo4 #eh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 of war4 ,when the ,navajo invasion was long past1 civilized men as ,spanish adventurers entered this country from ,mexico1 and again the ,tewan peoples left their homes on the mesas and by the canyons to find safety in the cavate dwellings of the cliffs2 and now the archaeologist in the study of this country discovers these two periods of construction and occupation of the cavate dwellings of the ,tewan ,indians4 ,north of the ,rio ,san ,juan another vast plateau region is found1 stretching to the ,grand ,river4 ,the mountains of this region are the ,la ,plata ,mountains1 ,bear ,river ,mountains1 and ,san ,miguel ,mountains on the east1 and the ,sierra ,el ,late1 the ,sierra ,abajo1 and the ,sierra ,la ,sal on the west1 the latter standing near the brink of ,cataract ,canyon1 through which the ,colorado flows immediately below the junction of the ,grand and ,green4 ,throughout the region mountains1 volcanic cones1 volcanic necks1 and coulees are found1 while the mountains themselves rise to great altitudes and are forest-clad4 ,some of the plateaus attain huge proportions1 and between the plateaus labyrinthian mesas are found4 ,buttes1 as stupendous cameos1 are scattered everywhere1 and the whole region is carved with canyons4 ,grand ,river heads on the back of ,long's ,peak1 in the ,front ,range of the ,rocky ,mountains of central ,colorado4 ,at the foot of the mountain lies ,grand ,lake1 a sheet of emerald water that duplicates the forest standing on its brink4 ,out of the lake flows ,grand ,river1 gathering on powell-canyons-#cb4;jpg ,a ,,navajo ,,ready ,,for ,a ,,journey4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #ei its way the many mountain streams whose waters fill the solitude with perennial music--a symphony of cascades4 ,in ,middle ,park boiling springs issue from depths below and gather in pools covered with con-fervae4 ,leaving ,middle ,park the river goes through a great range known as the ,gore's ,pass ,mountains2 and still it flows on toward the ,colorado1 now through canyon and now through valley1 until the last forty miles of its course it finds its way through a beautiful gorge known as ,grand ,river ,canyon4 ,in its principal course this canyon is a bright red homogeneous sandstone1 and the walls are often vertical and of great symmetry4 ,farther down1 its walls are rugged and angular1 being composed of limestones4 ,the principal tributaries from the south are the ,blue1 which heads in ,mt4 ,lincoln1 and the ,gunnison1 which heads in the ,wasatch ,mountains4 ,these streams are also characterized by deep canyons and plateaus1 and mesas abound on every hand4 ,between the ,grand ,river and the ,white ,river1 farther to the east1 the ,tavaputs ,plateau is found4 ,it begins at the foot of ,gore's ,pass ,range and extends down between the rivers last mentioned to the very brink of ,green ,river1 which is in fact the upper ,colorado4 ,between the ,grand ,river and the powell-canyons-#cc4;jpg ,a ,,navajo ,,boy4 #fj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 foot of this plateau there is a low1 narrow valley with mesas and buttes4 ,then the country suddenly rises by a stupendous line of cliffs #b1jjj or #c1jjj feet high4 ,these cliffs are composed of sand stones1 limestones1 and shales1 of many colors4 ,the stratification in many places is minute1 so that they have been called the ,book ,cliffs4 powell-canyons-#cd4;jpg ,,gardens ,,of ,,zu,i4 ,from the cliffs many salients are projected into the valleys1 and within deep re-entering angles vast amphitheaters appear4 ,about the projected salients many towering buttes1 with pinnacles and minarets1 are found4 ,the long1 narrow plateau is covered with a forest along its summit1 and1 though it rises abruptly on the south side from ,grand ,river ,valley1 it descends more gently toward the ,white ,river1 and on ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #fa powell-canyons-#ce4;jpg ,a ,,tusayan ,,ladder4 this slope many canyons of rare beauty are seen4 ,plateaus and mesas and canyons and buttes characterize the region north of ,white ,river and stretch out to the ,yampa4 ,the ,yampa itself has an important tributary from the northwest1 known as ,snake ,river4 ,just below the affluence of the ,snake with the ,yampa a strange phenomenon is observed4 ,right athwart the course of the river rises a great dome-shaped mountain1 with valley stretches on every side1 and through this mountain the river runs1 dividing it by a beautiful canyon1 through which it flows to its junction with the ,green4 ,this canyon is in soft1 white sandstone1 usually with vertical walls varying from #ejj to #b1jjj feet in height1 and the river flows in a gentle winding way through all this stretch4 ,to the east of this plateau region1 with its mesas and buttes and its volcanic mountains1 stand the southern ,rocky ,mountains1 or ,park ,mountains1 a system of north-and-south ranges4 ,these ranges are huge billows in the crust of the earth out of which mountains have been carved4 ,the parks of ,colorado are great valley basins enclosed by these ranges1 and over their surfaces moss agates are scattered4 ,the mountains are covered with dense forests and are rugged and wild4 ,the higher peaks rise above the timber line and are naked gorges of rocks4 ,in them the ,platte and ,arkansas rivers head and flow eastward to join the ,missouri ,river4 ,here also heads the ,rio ,grande del ,norte1 which flows southward into the ,gulf of ,mexico1 and still to the west head many streams which pour into the ,colorado waters destined for the ,gulf of ,california4 ,throughout all of this region drained by the ,grand1 ,white1 and ,yampa rivers1 there are many beautiful parks4 ,the great moun- powell-canyons-#cf4;jpg ,a ,,zu ,,stool4 #fb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 tain slopes are still covered with primeval forests4 ,springs1 brooks1 rivers1 and lakes abound1 and the waters are filled with trout4 ,not many years ago the hills were covered with game--elk on the mountains1 deer on the plateaus1 antelope in the valleys1 and beavers building their cities on the streams4 ,the plateaus are covered with low1 dwarf oaks and many shrubs bearing berries1 and in the chaparral of this region cinnamon bears are still abundant4 ,from time immemorial the region drained by the ,grand1 ,white1 and ,yampa rivers has been the home of ,ute tribes of the ,shoshonean powell-canyons-#cg4;jpg ,a ,,tusayan ,,field ,,shelter4 family of ,indians4 ,these people built their shelters of boughs and bark1 and to some extent lived in tents made of the skins of animals4 ,they never cultivated the soil1 but gathered wild seeds and roots and were famous hunters and fishermen4 ,as the region abounds in game1 these tribes have always been well clad in skins and furs4 ,the men wore blouse1 loincloth leggins1 and moccasins1 and the women dressed in short kilts4 ,it is curious to notice the effect which the contact of civilization has had upon these women's dress4 ,even twenty years ago they had lengthened their skirts2 and dresses1 made of buckskin1 fringed with furs1 and beaded with elk teeth1 were worn so long that they trailed ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #fc on the ground4 ,neither men nor women wore any headdress except on festival occasions for decoration2 then the women wore little basket bonnets decorated with feathers1 and the men wore headdresses made of the skins of ducks1 geese1 eagles1 and other large birds4 ,sometimes they would prepare the skin of the head of the elk or deer1 or of a bear or mountain lion or wolf1 for a headdress4 ,for very cold weather both men and women were provided with togas for their protection4 ,sometimes the men would have a bearskin or elkskin for a toga2 more powell-canyons-#ch4;jpg ,,another ,,tusayan ,,field ,,shelter4 often they made their togas by piecing together the skins of wolves1 mountain lions1 wolverines1 wild cats1 beavers1 and otters4 ,the women sometimes made theirs of fawnskins1 but rabbitskin r1obes were far more common4 ,these rabbitskins were tanned with the fur on1 and cut into strips2 then cords were made of the fiber of wild flax or yucca plants1 and round these cords the strips of rabbitskin were rolled1 so that they made long ropes of rabbitskin coils with a central cord of vegetal fiber2 then these coils were woven in parallel strings with cross #fd powell-canyons-#ci4;jpg ,,view ,,of ,,hano1 ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,seven ,,pueblos ,,of ,,tusayan4 powell-canyons-#dj4;jpg ,,mesa ,,verde4 ,,mesas ,,and ,,buttes4 #fe strands of fiber4 ,the robe when finished was usually about five or six feet square1 and it made a good toga for a cold day and a warm blanket for the night4 ,the ,ute ,indians1 like all the ,indians of ,north ,america1 have a wealth of mythic stories4 ,the heroes of these stories are the beasts1 birds1 and reptiles of the region1 and the themes of the stories are the doings of these mythic beasts--the ancients from whom the present animals have descended and degenerated4 ,the primeval animals were wonderful beings1 as related in the lore of the ,utes4 ,they were the creators and controllers of all the phenomena of nature known to these simple-minded people4 ,the ,utes are zootheists4 ,each little tribe has its ,shaman1 or medicine man1 who is historian1 priest1 and doctor4 ,the lore of this ,shaman is composed of mythic tales of ancient animals4 ,the ,indians are very skillful actors1 and they represent the parts of beasts or reptiles1 wearing masks and imitating the ancient zoic gods4 ,in temples walled with gloom of night and illumed by torch fires the people gather about their ,shaman1 who tells and acts the stories of creation recorded in their traditional bible4 ,when fever prostrates one of the tribe the ,shaman gathers the actors about the stricken man1 and with weird dancing1 wild ululation1 and ecstatic exhortation the evil spirit is driven from the body4 ,then they have their ceremonies to pray for the forest fruits1 for abundant game1 for successful hunting1 and for prosperity in war4 #ff powell-canyons-#da4;jpg ,,mount ,,moran1 ,,teton ,,range1 ,,wyoming4 #fg ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 ,,green ,,river has its source in ,fremont's ,peak1 high up in the ,wind ,river ,mountains among glacial lakes and mountain cascades4 ,this is the real source of the ,colorado ,river1 and it stands in strange contrast with the mouth of that stream where it pours into the ,gulf of ,california4 ,the general course of the river is from north to south and from great altitudes to the level of the sea4 ,thus it runs from land of snow to land of sun4 ,the ,wind ,river ,mountains constitute one of the most imposing ranges of the ,united ,states4 ,fremont's ,peak1 the culminating point1 is #ac1gij feet above the level of the sea4 ,it stands in a wilderness of crags4 ,here at ,fremont's ,peak three great rivers have their sources3 ,wind ,river flows eastward into the ,mississippi2 ,green ,river flows southward into the ,colorado2 and ,gros ,ventre ,river flows northwestward into the ,columbia4 ,from this dominating height many ranges can be seen on every hand4 ,about the sources of the ,platte and the ,big ,horn1 that flow ultimately into the ,gulf of ,mexico1 great ranges stand with their culminating peaks among the clouds2 and the mountains that extend into ,yellowstone ,park1 the land of geyser wonders1 are seen4 ,the ,yellowstone ,park is at the southern extremity of a great system of mountain ranges1 the northern ,rocky ,mountains1 sometimes called the ,geyser ,ranges4 ,this geological province extends into ,british ,america1 but its most wonderful scenery is in the upper ,yellowstone basin1 where geysers bombard the heavens with vapor distilled in subterranean depths4 ,the springs which pour out their boiling waters are loaded with quartz1 and the waters of the springs1 flowing away over the rocks1 slowly discharge their fluid magma1 which crystallizes in beautiful forms and builds jeweled basins that hold pellucid waters4 #fh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,to the north and west of ,fremont's ,peak are mountain ranges that give birth to rivers flowing into the great ,columbia4 ,conspicuous among these from this point of view is the great ,teton ,range1 with its towering facade of storm-carved rocks2 then the ,gros ,ventre ,mountains1 the ,snake ,river ,range1 the ,wyoming ,range1 and1 still beyond the latter1 the ,bear ,river ,range1 are seen4 ,far in the distant south1 scarcely to be distinguished from the blue clouds on the horizon1 stand the ,uinta ,mountains4 ,on every hand are deep mountain gorges where snows accumulate to form glaciers4 ,below the glaciers throughout the entire ,wind ,river ,range great numbers of morainal lakes are found4 ,these lakes are gems--deep sapphire waters fringed with emerald zones4 ,from these lakes creeks and rivers flow1 by cataracts and rapids1 to form the ,green4 ,the mountain slopes below are covered with dense forests of pines and firs4 ,the lakes are often fringed with beautiful aspens1 and when the autumn winds come their golden leaves are carried over the landscape in clouds of resplendent sheen4 ,the creeks descend from the mountains in wild rocky gorges1 until they flow out into the valley4 ,on the west side of the valley stand the ,gros ,ventre and the ,wyoming mountains1 low ranges of peaks1 but picturesque in form and forest stretch4 ,leaving the mountain1 the river meanders through the ,green ,river ,plains1 a cold elevated district much like that of northern ,norway1 except that the humidity of ,norway is replaced by the aridity of ,wyoming4 ,south of the plains the ,big ,sandy joins the ,green from the east4 ,south of the ,big ,sandy a long zone of sand-dunes stretches eastward4 ,the western winds blowing up the valley drift these sands from hill to hill1 so that the hills themselves are slowly journeying eastward on the wings of arid gales1 and sand tempests may be encountered more terrible than storms of snow or hail4 ,here the northern boundary of the ,plateau ,province is found1 for mesas and high table-lands are found on either side of the river4 #fi ,on the east side of the ,green1 mesas and plateaus have irregular escarpments with points extending into the valleys1 and between these points canyons come down that head in the highlands4 ,everywhere the escarpments are fringed with outlying buttes4 ,many portions of the region are characterized by bad lands4 ,these are hills carved out of sandstone1 shales1 and easily disintegrated rocks1 which present many #fi powell-canyons-#db4;jpg ,,marble ,,basins1 ,,mammoth ,,hot ,,springs1 ,,yellowstone ,,park4 #gj powell-canyons-#dc4;jpg ,,terraced ,,basins1 ,,mammoth ,,hot ,,springs1 ,,yellowstone ,,pabk4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 #ga fantastic forms and are highly colored in a great variety of tint and tone1 and everywhere they are naked of vegetation4 ,now and then low mountains crown the plateaus4 ,altogether it is a region of desolation4 ,through the midst of the country1 from east to west1 flows an intermittent stream known as ,bitter ,creek4 ,in seasons of rain it carries floods2 in seasons of drought it disappears in the sands1 and its waters are alkaline and often poisonous4 ,stretches of bad-land desert are interrupted by other stretches of sage plain1 and on the high lands gnarled and picturesque forests of juniper and pin are found4 ,on the west side of the river the mesas rise by grassy slopes to the westward into high plateaus that are forest-clad1 first with juniper and pion1 and still higher with pines and firs4 ,some of the streams run in canyons and others have elevated valleys along their courses4 ,on the south border of this mesa and plateau country are the ,bridger ,bad ,lands1 lying at the foot of the ,uinta ,mountains4 ,these bad lands are of gray1 green1 and brown shales that are carved in picturesque forms--domes1 towers1 pinnacles1 and minarets1 and bold cliffs with deep alcoves2 and all are naked rock1 the sediments of an ancient lake4 ,these lake beds are filled with fossils1--the preserved bones of fishes1 reptiles1 and mammals1 of strange and often gigantic forms1 no longer found living on the globe4 ,it is a desert to the agriculturist1 a mine to the paleontologist1 and a paradise to the artist4 ,the region thus described1 from ,fremont's ,peak to the ,uinta ,mountains1 has been the home of tribes of ,indians of the ,shoshonean family from time immemorial4 ,it is a great hunting and fishing region1 and the vigorous ,shoshones still obtain a part of their livelihood from mesa and plain and river and lake4 ,the flesh of the animals killed in fall and winter was dried in the arid winds for summer use2 the trout abounding in the streams and lakes were caught at all seasons of the year2 and the seeds and fruits of harvest time were gathered and preserved for winter use4 ,when the seeds were gathered they were winnowed by tossing them in trays so that the winds might carry away the chaff4 ,then they were roasted in the same trays4 ,burning coals and seeds were mixed in the basket trays and kept in motion by a tossing process which fanned the coals until the seeds were done2 then they were separated from the coals by dexterous manipulation4 ,afterwards the seeds were ground on #gb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 mealing-stones and molded into cakes1 often huge loaves1 that were stored away for use in time of need4 ,raspberries1 chokecherries1 and buffalo berries are abundant1 and these fruits were gathered and mixed with the bread4 ,such fruit cakes were great dainties among these people4 ,in this ,shoshone land the long winter night is dedicated to worship and festival4 ,about their camp fires scattered in forest glades by brooks and lakes1 they assemble to dance and sing in honor of their gods--wonderful mythic animals1 for they hold as divine the ancient of bears1 the eagle of the lost centuries1 the rattlesnake of primeval times1 and a host of other zoic deities4 ,the ,uinta ,range stands across the course of ,green ,river1 which finds its way through it by series of stupendous canyons4 ,the range has an east-and-west trend4 ,the ,wasatch ,mountains1 a long north-and-south range1 here divide the ,plateau ,province from what is known among geologists as the ,basin ,range ,province1 on the west4 ,the latter is the great interior basin whose waters run into salt lakes and sinks1 there being no drainage to the sea4 ,the ,great ,salt ,lake is the most important of these interior bodies of water4 ,the ,great ,basin1 which lies to the west of the ,plateau ,province1 forms a part of the ,basin ,range ,province4 ,in past geological times it was the site of a vast system of lakes1 but the climate has since changed and the water of most of these lakes has evaporated and the sediments of the old lake beds are now desert sands4 ,the ancient lake shores are often represented by conspicuous terraces1 each one marking a stage in the height of a dead lake4 ,while these lakes existed the region was one of great volcanic activity and many eruptive mountains were formed4 ,some burst out beneath the waters2 others were piled up on the dry land4 ,from the desert valleys below1 the ,wasatch ,mountains rise abruptly and are crowned with craggy peaks4 ,but on the east side of the mountains the descent to the plateau is comparatively slight4 ,the ,uinta ,mountains are carved out of the great plateau which extends more than two hundred miles to the eastward of the summit of the ,wasatch ,range4 ,its mountain peaks are cameos1 its upper valleys are meadows1 its higher slopes are forest groves1 and its streams run in deep1 solemn1 and majestic canyons4 ,the snows never melt from its crowning heights1 and an undying anthem is sung by its falling waters4 #gc powell-canyons-#dd4;jpg ,,tabernacle ,,crater ,,and ,,lava ,,beds ,,of ,,the ,,basin ,,province4 #gd powell-canyons-#de4;jpg ,,view ,,on ,,great ,,salt ,,lake ,,desert1 ,,showing ,,mountains ,,half ,,buried ,,by ,,lake ,,sediments4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 #ge ,the ,owiyukuts ,plateau is situated at the northeastern end of the ,uinta ,mountains4 ,it is a great integral block of the ,uinta system4 ,a beautiful creek heads in this plateau1 near its center1 and descends northward into the bad lands of ,vermilion ,creek1 to which stream it is tributary4 ,once upon a time this creek1 after descending from the plateau1 turned east and then southward and found its way by a beautiful canyon into ,brown's ,park1 where it joined the ,green2 but a great bend of the ,vermilion1 near the foot of the plateau1 was gradually enlarged--the stream cutting away its banks--until it encroached upon the little valley of the creek born on the ,owiyukuts ,plateau4 ,this encroachment continued until at last ,vermilion ,creek stole the ,owiyukuts ,creek and carried its waters away by its own channel4 ,then the canyon channel through which ,owiyukuts ,creek had previously run1 no longer having a stream to flow through its deep gorge1 gathered the waters of brooks flowing along its course into little lakelets1 which are connected by a running stream only through seasons of great rainfall4 ,these lakelets in the gorge of the dead creek are now favorite resorts of ,ute ,indians4 ,south of the ,uinta ,mountains is the ,uinta ,river1 a stream with many mountain tributaries1 some heading in the ,uinta ,mountains1 others in the ,wasatch ,mountains on the west1 and still others in the western ,tavaputs ,plateau4 ,the ,uinta ,valley is the ancient and present home of the ,uinta ,indians1 a tribe speaking the ,uinta language of the ,shoshonean family4 ,their habits1 customs1 institutions1 and mythology are essentially the same as those of the ,ute ,indians of the ,grand ,river country1 already described4 ,in this valley there are also found many ruins of ancient pueblo-building peoples--of what stock is not known4 ,the ,tavaputs ,plateau is one of the stupendous features of this country4 ,on the west it merges into the ,wasatch ,mountains2 on the north it descends by wooded slopes into the ,uinta ,valley4 ,its summit is forest-clad and among the forests are many beautiful parks4 ,on the south it ends in a great escarpment which descends into ,castle ,valley4 ,this southern escarpment presents one of the most wonderful facades of the world4 ,it is from #b1jjj to #d1jjj feet high4 ,the descent is not made by one bold step1 for it is cut by canyons and cliffs4 ,it is a zone several #gf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 miles in width which is a vast labyrinth of canyons1 cliffs1 buttes1 pinnacles1 minarets1 and detached rocks of ,cyclopean magnitude1 the whole destitute of soil and vegetation1 colored in many brilliant tones and tints1 and carved in many weird forms1--a land of desolation1 dedicated forever to the geologist and the artist1 where civilization can find no resting-place4 ,then comes ,castle ,valley1 to describe which is to beggar language and pall imagination4 ,on the north is the ,tavaputs2 on the west is the ,wasatch ,plateau1 which lies to the south of the ,wasatch ,mountains and is here the west boundary of the ,plateau ,province2 on the south are indescribable mesas and mountains2 on the east is ,grand ,river1 a placid stream meandering through a valley of meadows4 ,within these boundaries there is a landscape of gigantic rock forms1 interrupted here and there by bad-land hills1 dominated with the towering cliffs of ,tavaputs1 the bold escarpment of the ,wasatch ,plateau1 and the volcanic peaks of the ,henry ,mountains on the south4 ,it is a vast forest of rock forms1 and in its midst is ,san ,rafael ,swell1 an elevation crowned with still more gigantic rock forms4 ,among the rocks pools and lakelets are found1 and little streams run in canyons that seem like chasms cleft to nadir #gg powell-canyons-#df4;jpg ,,an ,,indian ,,hunter4 444 4444 #gh powell-canyons-#dg4;jpg ,,reservoir ,,butte1 ,,showing ,,terraces ,,of ,,the ,,ancient ,,lake ,,bonneville ,,shorelines4 #gi powell-canyons-#dh4;jpg ,,pavant ,,butte1 ,,over ,a ,,submarine ,,volcano ,,of ,,the ,,great ,,basin4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 #hj hell4 ,san ,rafael ,river and ,fremont ,river drain this ,castle land1 heading in the ,wasatch ,plateau and flowing into the ,grand ,river4 ,along these streams a few narrow canyon valleys are found1 and in them ,ute ,indians make their winter homes4 ,the bad lands are filled with agates1 jaspers1 and carnelians1 which are gathered by the ,indians and fashioned powell-canyons-#di4;jpg ,,an ,,indian ,,camp4 into arrowheads and knives2 along the foot of the canyon cliffs workshops can be discovered that have been occupied by generations from a time in the long past1 and the chips of these workshops pave the valleys4 ,south of the ,wasatch ,plateau we have the ,fish ,lake ,plateau1 the ,awapa ,plateau1 and the ,aquarius ,plateau1 which separate the waters flowing into the ,great ,basin from the waters of the ,colorado1 which #ha #hj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 here constitute the boundary of the ,plateau ,province4 ,awapa is a ,ute name signifying ,many waters4 ,all three of these plateaus are remarkable for the many lakelets found on them4 ,to the east are the ,henry ,mountains1 a group of volcanic domes that rise above the region4 ,the rocks of the country powell-canyons-#ej4;jpg ,,indians ,,gambling4 are limestones1 sandstones1 and shales1 originally lying in horizontal altitudes2 but volcanic forces were generated under them and lavas boiled up4 ,these lavas did not1 however1 come to the surface1 but as they rose they lifted the sandstones1 shales1 and limestones1 to a thickness of #b1jjj or #c1jjj feet or more1 into great domes4 ,then the molten lavas cooled in great lenses of mountain magnitude1 with the #hb powell-canyons-#ea4;jpg ,,ruin ,,near ,,moenkopi4 powell-canyons-#eb4;jpg ,,ruins ,,of ,,payupki1 ,,six ,,miles ,,northwest ,,of ,,mashongnavi1 ,,tusayan4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 #hc sedimentary rocks domed above them4 ,then the clouds gathered over these domes and wept1 and their tears were gathered in brooks1 and the brooks carved canyons down the sides of the domes2 and now in these deep clefts the structure of the mountains is revealed4 ,the lenses of volcanic rocks by which the domes were upheaved are known as laccolites1 i4 e41 rock lakes4 ,looking southwestward from the ,henry ,mountains the ,circle ,cliffs are seen4 ,a great escarpment1 several thousand feet in height and #gj or #hj miles in length1 faces the mountain4 ,it is the step to the long1 narrow plateau4 ,the streams that come down across these cliffs head in great symmetric amphitheaters1 and when first seen from above they present a vast alignment of walled circles4 ,the front of the cliffs1 seen from below1 is everywhere imposing4 ,on the southwest the ,escalante ,river holds its course4 ,it heads in the ,aquarius ,plateau and flows into the ,colorado4 ,its course1 as well as that of all its many tributaries1 is in deep box-canyons of homogeneous red sandstone1 often with vertical walls that are broken by many beautiful alcoves and glens4 ,much of the region is of naked1 smooth1 red rock1 but the alcoves and glens that break the canyon walls are the sites of perennial springs1 about which patches of luxuriant verdure gather4 ,the ,kaiparowits ,plateau is an elevated table-land on the southwestern side of the ,escalante ,river4 ,it is long and narrow1 extending from the northwest to the southeast approximately parallel with the ,escalante4 ,it rises above the red sandstone of the ,escalante region from #b1jjj to #d1jjj feet by a front of storm-carved cliffs4 ,from the southeastern extremity of this plateau1 at an altitude of #g1ejj feet1 an instructive view is obtained4 ,one of the great canyons of the ,colorado ,river can be seen meandering its way through the red-rock landscape4 ,in the distance1 and to the north1 the ,henry ,mountains are in view1 and below1 the canyons of the ,escalante and the red-rock land are in sight4 ,across the ,colorado are the canyons of the ,san ,juan1 and below the mouth of the ,san ,juan is the great ,navajo ,mountain4 ,still to the south the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado is in view1 and in the west a vast mesa landscape is presented with its buttes and pinnacles4 ,still to the southward ,paria ,river is seen heading in a plateau on the margin of the province and having a course a little east of south into the ,colorado4 #hd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,the region of country which has been thus described1 from the ,tava-puts ,plateau to the ,paria ,river1 was the home of a few scattered ,ute ,indians1 who lived in very small groups1 and who hunted on the plateau1 fished in the waters1 and dwelt in the canyons4 ,there was nominally but one tribe1 but as the members of this tribe were in very small parties and separated by wide distances the tribal bonds were very weak and often unrecognized4 ,the chief integrating agency was religion1 for they worshiped the same gods and periodically joined in the same religious ceremonies and festivals4 ,a country so destitute of animal and vegetal life would not support large numbers1 and the few who dwelt here gained but a precarious and scant subsistence4 ,to a large extent they lived on seeds and roots4 ,the low1 warm canyons furnished admirable shelter for the people1 and their habitual costumes were loincloths1 paints1 and necklaces of tiny arrowheads made of the bright-colored agates and carnelians strung on snakeskins4 ,when the ,mormon people encroached on this country from the west1 and when the ,navajos on the east surrendered to the ,united ,states1 a few recalcitrant ,navajos and the ,utes of this region combined4 ,they had long been more or less intimately associated1 and a jargon speech had grown up by which they could communicate4 ,finally1 the greater number of these ,utes and renegade ,navajos took up their homes permanently on the eastern bank of the ,colorado ,river between the ,grand and the ,san ,juan rivers4 ,the ,navajos are the dominant race1 yet they live on terms of practical equality and affiliate without feuds4 ,these are the great ,freebooters of the ,plateau ,province--the enemies of other tribes and of the white men4 ,in their canyon fortresses they have been able to hold their ground in spite of their enemies on every hand4 ,throughout the region and the plateaus by which it is surrounded and the mountains by which it is interrupted1 everywhere ruins of pueblos and many cliff dwellings are found4 ,none of these ancient pueblos are on a large scale4 ,the houses were usually one or two stories high and the hamlets rarely provided shelter for more than two dozen people4 ,some of the houses are of rather superior architecture1 having well-constructed walls with good geometric proportions4 ,their houses were plastered on the inside1 and sometimes on the outside1 #he powell-canyons-#ec4;jpg ,,shupaulovi4 #hf powell-canyons-#ed4;jpg ,,general ,,view ,,of ,,zu,i1 ,,looking ,,west4 ,,mountains ,,and ,,plateaus4 #hg and covered with flat roofs of sun-dried mud4 ,the real home of the people in their waking hours was on their housetops4 ,the rocks of the mountain are etched with many picture-writings attesting the artistic skill of this people4 ,the predominant form is the rattlesnake1 which is found in the crevices of the rocks on every hand4 ,it is inferred that the people worshiped the rattlesnake as one of their chief deities1 a god who carried the spirit of death in his mouth4 #hh powell-canyons-#ee4;jpg ,,the ,,gray ,,cliffs4 #hi ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 ,,there is a great group of table-lands constituting a geographic unit which have been named the ,terrace ,plateaus4 ,they ex-tend from the ,paria and ,colorado on the east to the ,grand ,wash and ,pine ,mountains on the west1 and they are bounded on the south by the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado1 and on the north they divide the waters of the ,colorado from the waters of the ,sevier1 which flows northward and then westward until it is lost in the sands of the ,great ,desert4 ,it is an irregular system of great plateaus with subordinate mesas and buttes separated by lines of cliffs and dissected by canyons4 ,in this region all of the features which have been described as found in other portions of the province are grouped except only the cliffs of volcanic ashes1 the volcanic cones1 and the volcanic domes4 ,the volcanic mountains1 cinder cones1 and coulees1 the majestic plateaus and elaborate mesas1 the sculptured buttes and canyon gorges1 are all found here1 but on a more stupendous scale4 ,the volcanic mountains are higher1 the cinder cones are larger1 the coulees are more extensive and are often sheets of naked1 black rock1 the plateaus are more lofty1 the cliffs are on a grander scale1 the canyons are of profounder depth2 and the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado1 the most stupendous gorge known on the globe1 with a great river surging through it1 bounds it on the south4 ,the east-and-west cliffs are escarpments of degradation1 the north-and-south cliffs are1 in the main1 though not always1 escarpments of displacement4 ,let us understand what this means4 ,over the entire region limestones1 shales1 and sandstones were deposited through long periods of geologic time to the thickness of many thousands of feet2 then the country was upheaved and tilted toward the north2 but the ,colorado #ij ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#ef4;jpg ,river was flowing when the tilting commenced1 and the upheaval was very slow1 so that the river cleared away the obstruction to its channel as fast as it was presented1 and this is the ,grand ,canyon4 ,the rocks above were carried away by rains and rivers1 but not evenly all over the country2 nor by washing out valleys and leaving hills1 but by carving the country into terraces4 ,the upper and later-formed rocks are found far to the north1 their edges standing in cliffs2 then still earlier rocks are found rising to the southward1 until they terminate in cliffs2 and then a third series rises to the southward and ends in cliffs1 and finally a fourth series1 the oldest rocks1 terminating in the ,grand ,canyon wall1 which is a line of cliffs4 ,there are in a general way four great lines of cliffs extending from east to west across the district and presenting their faces1 or escarpments1 southward4 ,if these cliffs are climbed it is found that each plateau or terrace dips gently to the northward until it meets with another line of cliffs1 which must be ascended to reach the summit of another plateau4 ,place a book before you on a table with its front edge toward you1 rest another book on the back of this1 place a third on the back of the second1 and in like manner a fourth on the third4 ,now the leaves of the books dip from you and the cut edges stand in tiny escarpments facing you4 ,so the rock-formed leaves of #ia ,v powell-canyons-#eg4;jpg ,a ,,group ,,of ,,stone ,,corrals4 #ib powell-canyons-#eh4;jpg ,,ruins4 ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 #ic these books of geology have the escarpment edges turned southward1 while each book itself dips northward1 and the crest of each plateau book is the summit of a line of cliffs4 ,these cliffs of erosion have been described as running from east to west1 but they diverge from that course in many ways4 ,first1 canyons run from north to south through them1 and where these canyons are found deep angles occur2 then sharp salients extend from the cliffs on the backs of the lower plateaus4 ,each great escarpment is made up more or less of minor terraces1 or steps2 and at the foot of each grand escarpment there is always a great talus1 or sloping pile of rocks1 and many marvelous buttes stand in front of the cliffs4 ,but these east-and-west cliffs and the plateaus which they form are divided by north-and-south lines in another manner4 ,the country has been faulted along north-and-south lines or planes4 ,these faults are breaks in the strata varying from #a1jjj or #b1jjj to #d1jjj or #e1jjj feet in verticality4 ,on the very eastern margin the rocks are dropped down several thousand feet1 or1 which means the same thing1 the rocks are upheaved on the west side2 that is1 the beds that were originally horizontal have been differentially displaced1 so that on the west side of the fracture the strata are several thousand feet higher than they are on the east side of the fracture4 ,the line of displacement is known as the ,echo ,cliff ,fault4 ,west of this about twenty-five miles1 there is another fault with its throw to the east1 the upheaved rocks being on the west4 ,this fault varies from #a1ejj to #b1ejj feet in throw1 and extends far to the northward4 ,it is known as the ,east ,kaibab ,fault4 ,still going westward1 another fault is found1 known as the ,west ,kaibab ,fault4 ,here the throw is on the west side1--that is1 the rocks are dropped down to the westward from #a1jjj to #b1jjj feet4 ,this fault gradually becomes less to the northward and is flexed toward the east until it joins with the ,east ,kaibab ,fault4 ,the block between the two faults is the ,kaibab ,plateau4 ,going westward from #fj to #gj miles1 still another fault is found1 known as the ,hurricane ,ledge ,fault4 ,the throw is again on the west side of the fracture and the rocks fall down some thousands of feet4 ,this fault extends far northward into central ,utah4 ,to the west #be or #cj miles is found a fault with the throw still on the west4 ,it has a drop of several thousand feet and extends across the ,rio ,colorado far to #id ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the southwest1 probably beyond the ,arizona-,new ,mexico line4 ,it also extends far to the north1 until it is buried and lost under the ,pine ,valley ,mountains1 which are of volcanic origin4 ,now let us see what all this means4 ,in order clearly to understand this explanation the reader is referred to the illustration designated ,section and ,bird's-,eye ,view of the ,plateaus ,north of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,starting at the ,grand ,wash on the west1 the ,grand ,wash ,cliffs1 formed by the ,grand ,wash ,fault1 are scaled2 and if we are but a few miles north of the ,grand ,canyon we are on the ,shiwits ,plateau4 ,its western boundary is the ,grand ,wash ,cliffs1 its southern boundary is the ,grand ,canyon1 and its northern boundary is a line of cliffs of degradation1 which will be described hereafter4 ,going eastward across the ,shiwits ,plateau the ,hurricane ,cliffs are reached1 and climbing them we are on the ,uinkaret ,plateau1 which is bounded on the south by the ,grand ,canyon and on the north by the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 that rise above its northern foot4 ,still going eastward #cj or #dj miles to the brink of the ,kanab ,canyon1 the ,west ,kanab ,plateau is crossed1 which is bounded by the ,toroweap ,fault on the west1 separating it from the ,uinkaret ,plateau1 and by the ,kanab ,canyon on the east1 with the ,grand ,canyon on the south and the ,vermilion ,cliffs on the north4 ,crossing the ,kanab1 we are on the ,east ,kanab ,plateau1 which extends about #cj miles to the foot of the ,west ,kaibab ,cliffs1 or the escarpment of the ,west ,kaibab ,fault4 ,this canyon also has the ,grand ,canyon on the south and the ,vermilion ,cliffs on the north4 ,climbing the ,west ,kaibab ,fault1 we are on the ,kaibab ,plateau4 ,now we have been climbing from west to east1 and each ascent has been made at a line of cliffs4 ,crossing the ,kaibab ,plateau to the ,east ,kaibab ,cliffs2 the country falls down once more to the top of ,marble ,canyon ,plateau4 ,crossing this plateau to the eastward1 we at last reach the ,echo ,cliff ,fault1 where the rocks fall down on the eastern side once more2 but the surface of the country itself does not fall down--the later rocks still remain1 and the general level of the country is preserved except in one feature of singular interest and beauty1 to describe which a little further explanation is necessary4 ,i have spoken of these north-and-south faults as if they were fractures2 and usually they are fractures1 but in some places they are flex- #ie powell-canyons-#ei4;jpg ,,lagoon ,,on ,,the ,,kaibab4 #if powell-canyons-#fj4;jpg ,,pink ,,cliffs1 ,,paunsagunt ,,plateau4 ,,cliffs ,,and ,,teeeaces4 #ig ures4 ,the ,echo ,cliffs displacement is a flexure4 ,just over the zone of flexure a long ridge extends from north to south1 known as the ,echo ,cliffs4 ,it is composed of a comparatively hard and homogeneous sandstone of a later age than the limestones of the ,marble ,canyon ,plateau west of it2 but the flexure dips down so as to carry this sandstone which forms the face of the cliff 7presented westward7 far under the surface1 so that on the east side rocks of still later age are found1 the drop being several thousand feet4 ,the inclined red sandstone stands in a ridge more than #ge miles in length1 with an escarped face presented to the west and a face of inclined rock to the east4 ,the western side is carved into beautiful alcoves and is buttressed with a magnificent talus1 and the red sandstone stands in fractured columns of giant size and marvelous beauty4 ,on the east side the declining beds are carved into pockets1 which often hold water4 ,this is the region of the ,thousand ,wells4 ,the foot of the cliffs on the east side is several hundred feet above the foot of the cliffs on the west side4 ,on the west there is a vast limestone stretch1 the top of the ,marble ,canyon ,plateau2 on the east there are drifting sand-dunes4 ,the terraced land described has three sets of terraces3 one set on the east1 great steps to the ,kaibab ,plateau2 another set on the west1 from the ,great ,basin region to the ,kaibab ,plateau2 and a third set from the ,grand ,canyon northward4 ,there are thus three sets of cliffs3 cliffs facing the east1 cliffs facing the west1 and cliffs facing the south4 ,the north-and-south cliffs are made by faults2 the east-and-west cliffs are made by differential degradation4 ,the stupendous cliffs by which the plateaus are bounded are of indescribable grandeur and beauty4 ,the cliffs bounding the ,kaibab ,plateau descend on either side1 and this is the culminating portion of the region4 ,all the other plateaus are terraces1 with cliffs ascending on the one side and descending on the other4 ,some of the tables carry dead volcanoes on their backs that are towering mountains1 and all of them are dissected by canyons that are gorges of profound depth4 ,but every one of these plateaus has characteristics peculiar to itself and is worthy of its own chapter4 ,on the north there is a pair of plateaus1 twins in age1 but very distinct in development1 the ,paunsagunt and ,markagunt4 ,they are separated by the ,sevier ,river1 which flows northward4 ,their #ih ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 southern margins constitute the highest steps of the great system of terraces of erosion4 ,this escarpment is known as the ,pink ,cliffs4 ,above1 pine forests are found2 below the cliffs are hills and sand-dunes4 ,the cliffs themselves are bold and often vertical walls of a delicate pink color4 ,in one of the earlier years of exploration ,i stood on the summit of the ,pink ,cliffs of the ,paunsagunt ,plateau1 #i1jjj feet above the level of the sea4 ,below me1 to the southwest1 ,i could look off into the canyons of the ,virgen ,river1 down into the canyon of the ,kanab1 and far away into the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado4 ,from the lowlands of the ,great ,basin and from the depths of the ,grand ,canyon clouds crept up over the cliffs and floated over the landscape below me1 concealing the canyons and mantling the mountains and mesas and buttes2 still on toward me the clouds rolled1 burying the landscape in their progress1 until at last the region below was covered by a mantle of storm--a tumultuous sea of rolling clouds1 black and angry in parts1 white as the foam of cataracts here and there1 and everywhere flecked with resplendent sheen4 ,below me spread a vast ocean of vapor1 for ,i was above the clouds4 ,on descending to the plateau1 ,i found that a great storm had swept the land1 and the dry arroyos of the day before were the channels of a thousand streams of tawny water1 born of the ocean of vapor which had invaded the land before my vision4 ,below the ,pink ,cliffs another irregular zone of plateaus is found1 stretching out to the margin of the ,gray ,cliffs4 ,the ,gray ,cliffs are composed of a homogeneous sandstone which in some places weathers gray1 but in others is as white as virgin snow4 ,on the top of these cliffs hills and sand-dunes are found1 but everywhere on the ,gray ,cliff margin the rocks are carved in fantastic forms2 not in buttes and towers and pinnacles1 but in great rounded bosses of rock4 #ih ,the ,virgen ,river heads back in the ,pink ,cliffs of the ,markagunt ,plateau and with its tributaries crosses one of these plateaus above the ,gray ,cliffs1 carving a labyrinth of deep gorges4 ,this is known as the ,colob ,plateau4 ,above1 there is a vast landscape of naked1 white and gray sandstone1 billowing in fantastic bosses4 ,on the margins of the canyons these are rounded off into great vertical walls1 and at the bottom of every winding canyon a beautiful stream of water is found #ii powell-canyons-#fa4;jpg ,a ,,permian ,,butte4 #ajj powell-canyons-#fb4;jpg ,,vermilion ,,cliffs ,,at ,,kanab4 ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 #aja running over quicksands4 ,sometimes the streams in their curving have cut under the rocks1 and overhanging cliffs of towering altitudes are seen2 and somber chambers are found between buttresses that uphold the walls4 ,among the ,indians this is known as the ,rock ,rovers' ,land1 and is peopled by mythic beings of uncanny traits4 ,below the ,gray ,cliffs another zone of plateaus is found1 separated by the north-and-south faults and divided from the ,colob series by the ,gray ,cliffs and demarcated from the plateaus to the south by the ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,the ,vermilion ,cliffs that face the south are of surpassing beauty4 ,the rocks are of orange and red above and of chocolate1 lavender1 gray1 and brown tints below4 ,the canyons that cut through the cliffs from north to south are of great diversity and all are of profound interest4 ,in these canyon walls many caves are found1 and often the caves contain lakelets and pools of clear water4 ,canyons and re-entrant angles abound4 ,the faces of the cliffs are terraced and salients project onto the floors below4 ,the outlying buttes are many4 ,standing away to the south and facing these cliffs when the sun is going down beyond the desert of the ,great ,basin1 shadows are seen to creep into the deep recesses1 while the projecting forms are illumined1 so that the lights and shadows are in great and sharp contrast2 then a million lights seem to glow from a background of black gloom1 and a great bank of ,tartarean fire stretches across the landscape4 ,at the foot of the ,vermilion ,cliffs there is everywhere a zone of vigorous junipers and pions1 for the belt of country is favored with comparatively abundant rain4 ,when the clouds drift over the plateaus below from the south and west and strike the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 they are abruptly lifted #b1jjj feet1 and to make the climb they must unload their burdens2 so that here copious rains are discharged1 and by such storms the cliffs are carved and ever from age to age carried back farther to the north4 ,in the ,pink ,cliffs above and the ,gray ,cliffs and the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 there are many notches that mark channels running northward which had their sources on these plateaus when they extended farther to the south4 ,the ,rio ,virgen is the only stream heading in the ,pink ,cliffs and running into the ,colorado which is perennial4 ,the other rivers and creeks carry streams of water in rainy seasons only4 ,when a succession of dry years occurs the canyons coming through the #ajb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 cliffs are choked below1 as vast bodies of sand are deposited4 ,but now and then1 ten or twenty years apart1 great storms or successions of storms come1 and the channels are flooded and cut their way again through the drifting sands to solid rock below4 ,thus the streams below are alternately choked and cleared from period to period4 ,to the south of the ,vermilion ,cliffs the last series or zone of plateaus north of the ,grand ,canyon is found4 ,the summits of these plateaus are of cherty limestone4 ,in the far west we have the ,shiwits ,plateau covered with sheets of lava and volcanic cones2 then climbing the ,hurricane ,ledge we have the ,kanab ,plateau1 on the southwest portion of which the ,uinkaret ,mountains stand--a group of dead volcanoes with many black cinder cones scattered about4 ,it is interesting to know how these mountains are formed4 ,the first eruptions of lava were long ago1 and they were poured out upon a surface #b1jjj feet or more higher than the general surface now found4 ,after the first eruptions of coulees the lands round about were degraded by rains and rivers4 ,then new eruptions occurred and additional sheets of lava were poured out2 but these came not through the first channels1 but through later ones formed about the flanks of the elder beds of lava1 so that the new sheets are imbricated or shingled over the old sheets4 ,but the overlap is from below upward4 ,then the land was further degraded1 and a third set of coulees was spread still lower down on the flanks1 and on these last coulees the black cinder cones stand4 ,so the foundations of the ,uinkaret ,mountains are of limestones1 and these foundations are covered with sheets of lava overlapping from below upward1 and the last coulees are decked with cones4 ,still farther east is the ,kaibab ,plateau1 the culminating table-land of the region4 ,it is covered with a beautiful forest1 and in the forest charming parks are found4 ,its southern extremity is a portion of the wall of the ,grand ,canyon2 its western margin is the wall of the ,west ,kaibab ,fault2 its eastern edge is the wall of the ,east ,kaibab ,fault2 and its northern point is found where the two faults join4 ,here antelope feed and many a deer goes bounding over the fallen timber4 ,in winter deep snows lie here1 but the plateau has four months of the sweetest summer man has ever known4 ,on the terraced plateaus three tribes of ,indians are found3 the ,shiwits 7people of the springs71 the ,uinkarets 7people of the pine #ajc powell-canyons-#fc4;jpg ,a ,,midsummerday',s ,,dream ,,on ,,the ,,colob4 #ajd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 mountains71 and the ,unkakaniguts 7people of the red lands1 who dwell along the ,vermilion ,cliffs74 ,they are all ,utes and belong to a confederacy with other tribes living farther to the north1 in ,utah4 ,these people live in shelters made of boughs piled up in circles and covered with juniper bark supported by poles4 ,these little houses are only large enough for half a dozen persons huddling together in sleep4 ,their aboriginal clothing was very scant1 the most important being powell-canyons-#fd4;jpg ,,an ,,indian ,,village4 wildcatskin and wolfskin robes for the men1 and rabbitskin robes for the women1 though for occasions of festival they had clothing of tanned deer and antelope skins1 often decorated with fantastic ornaments of snake skins1 feathers1 and the tails of squirrels and chipmunks4 ,a great variety of seeds and roots furnish their food1 and on the higher plateaus there is much game1 especially deer and antelope4 ,but the whole country abounds with rabbits1 which are often killed with arrows and ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 #aje caught in snares4 ,every year they have great hunts1 when scores of rabbits are killed in a single day4 ,it is managed in this way3 ,they make nets of the fiber of the wild flax and of some other plant1 the meshes of which are about an inch across4 ,these nets are about three and a half feet in width and hundreds of yards in length4 ,they arrange powell-canyons-#fe4;jpg ,,antinaints1 ,,putusiv1 ,,and ,,wichuts1 ,,in ,,festal ,,dress4 such a net in a circle1 not quite closed1 supporting it by stakes and pinning the bottom firmly to the ground4 ,from the opening of the circle they extend net wings1 expanding in a broad angle several hundred yards from either side4 ,then the entire tribe will beat up a great district of country and drive the rabbits toward the nets1 and finally into #ajf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the circular snare1 which is quickly closed1 when the rabbits are killed with arrows4 ,a great variety of desert plants furnish them food1 as seeds1 roots1 and powell-canyons-#ff4;jpg ,,perspective ,,view ,,of ,,typical ,,solitary ,,house4 stalks4 ,more than fifty varieties of such seed-bearing plants have been collected4 ,the seeds themselves are roasted1 ground1 and preserved in cakes4 ,the most abundant food of this nature is derived from the sunflower and the nuts of the pin4 ,they still make stone arrowheads1 stone knives1 and stone hammers1 and kindle fire with the drill4 ,their medicine men are famous sorcerers4 ,coughs are caused by invisible winged insects1 rheumatism by flesh-eating bugs too small to be seen1 and the toothache by invisible worms4 ,their healing art consists in searing and scarifying4 ,their medicine men take the medicine themselves to produce a state of ecstasy1 in which the disease pests are discovered4 ,they also practice dancing about their patients to drive away the evil beings or to avert the effects of sorcery4 ,when a child is bitten by a rattlesnake the snake is caught and brought near to the suffering urchin1 and ceremonies are performed1 all for the purpose of prevailing upon the snake to take back the evil spirit4 ,they have quite a variety of mythic personages4 ,the chief of these are the ,,cliffs ,,and ,,tebeaces4 #ajg ,enupits1 who are pigmies dwelling about the springs1 and the ,rock ,rovers1 who live in the cliffs4 ,their gods are zoic1 and the chief among them are the wolf1 the rabbit1 the eagle1 the jay1 the rattlesnake1 and the spider4 ,they have no knowledge of the ambient air1 but the winds are the breath of beasts living in the four quarters of the earth4 ,whirlwinds that often blow among the sand-dunes are caused by the dancing of ,enupits4 ,the sky is ice1 and the rain is caused by the ,rainbow ,god2 he abraids the ice of the sky with his scales and the snow falls1 and if the weather be warm the ice melts and it is rain4 ,the sun is a poor slave compelled to make the same journey every day since he was conquered by the rabbit4 ,these tribes have a great body of romance1 in which the actors are animals1 and the knowledge of these stories is the lore of their sages4 ,scattered over the plateaus are the ruins of many ancient stone pueblos1 not unlike those previously described4 ,the ,kanab ,river heading in the ,pink ,cliffs runs directly southward powell-canyons-#fg4;jpg ,,perspective ,,view ,,op ,,round-,,house ,,structure ,,of ,,lava4 and joins the ,colorado in the heart of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,its way is through a series of canyons4 ,from one of these it emerges at the foot of the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 and here stood an extensive ruin not many years ago4 ,some portions of the pueblo were three stories #ajh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 high4 ,the structure was one of the best found in this land of ruins4 ,the ,mormon people settling here have used the stones of the old pueblo in building their homes1 and now no vestiges of the ancient structure remain4 ,a few miles below the town other ruins were found4 ,they were scattered to ,pipe's ,springs1 a point twenty miles to the westward4 ,ruins were also discovered up the stream as far as the ,pink ,cliffs1 and eastward along the ,vermilion ,cliffs nearly to the ,colorado ,river1 and out on the margin of the ,kanab ,plateau4 ,these were all ruins of outlying habitations be-longing to the ,kanab pueblo4 ,from the study of the existing pueblos found elsewhere and from extensive study of the ruins1 it seems that everywhere tribal pueblos were built of considerable dimensions1 usually to give shelter to several hundred people4 ,then the people cultivated the soil by irrigation1 and had powell-canyons-#fh4;jpg ,,an ,,ancient ,,cliff ,,house4 #aji powell-canyons-#fi4;jpg ,a ,,zu,i ,,eagle ,,cage4 #aaj powell-canyons-#gj4;jpg ,a ,,view ,,of ,,zu,i4 #aaa ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 their gardens and little fields scattered at wide distances about the central pueblo1 by little springs and streams and wherever they could control the water with little labor to bring it on the land4 ,at such points stone houses were erected sufficient to accommodate from one to two thousand people1 and these were occupied during the season of cultivation and are known as rancheras4 ,so one great tribe had its central pueblo and its outlying rancheras4 ,sometimes the rancheras were occupied from year to year1 especially in time of peace1 but usually they were occupied only during seasons of cultivation4 ,such groups of ruins and pueblos with accessory rancheras are still inhabited1 and have been described as found throughout the ,plateau ,province except far to the north beyond the ,uinta ,mountains4 ,a great pueblo once existed in the ,uinta ,valley on the south side of the mountains4 ,this is the most northern pueblo which has yet been discovered4 ,but the pueblo-building tribes extended beyond the area drained by the ,colorado4 ,on the west there was a pueblo in the ,great ,basin at the site now occupied by ,salt ,lake ,city1 and several more to the southward1 all on waters flowing into the desert4 ,on the east such pueblos were found among mountains at the headwaters of the ,arkansas1 ,platte1 and ,canadian rivers4 ,the entire area drained by the ,rio ,grande del ,norte was occupied by pueblo tribes1 and a number are still inhabited4 ,to the south they extended far beyond the territory of the ,united ,states1 and the so-called ,aztec cities were rather superior pueblos of this character4 ,the known pueblo tribes of the ,united ,states belong to several different linguistic stocks4 ,they are far from being one homogeneous people1 for they have not only different languages but different religions and worship different gods4 ,these pueblo peoples are in a higher grade of culture than most ,indian tribes of the ,united ,states4 ,this is exhibited in the slight superiority of their arts1 especially in their architecture4 ,it is also noticeable in their mythology and religion4 ,their gods1 the heroes of their myths1 are more often personifications of the powers and phenomena of nature1 and their religious ceremonies are more elaborate1 and their cult societies are highly organized4 ,as they had begun to domesticate animals and to cultivate the soil1 so as to obtain a part of their subsistence by agriculture1 they had almost accomplished the ascent from savagery #aab powell-canyons-#ga4;jpg ,,walpi ,,dance ,,rock4 ,,cliffs ,,and ,,terraces4 #aac to barbarism when first discovered by the invading ,european4 ,all the ,indians of ,north ,america were in this state of transition1 but the pueblo tribes had more nearly reached the higher goal4 ,the great number of ruins found throughout the land has often been interpreted as evidence of a much larger pueblo population than has been found in post-,columbian time4 ,but a careful study of the facts does not warrant this conclusion4 ,it would seem that for various reasons tribes abandoned old pueblos and built new1 thus changing their permanent residence from time to time2 but more frequent changes were made in their rancherias4 ,these were but ephemeral1 being moved from place to place by the varying conditions of water supply4 ,most of the streams of the arid land are not perennial1 but very many of the smaller streams of the pueblo region discharge their waters into the larger streams in times of great flood4 ,such floods occur now here1 now there1 and at varying periods1 sometimes fifty years apart4 ,when dry years follow one another for a long series1 the channels of these intermittent streams are choked with sand until the streams are buried and lost4 ,under such circumstances the rancherias were moved from dead stream to living stream4 ,in rare instances pueblos themselves were removed for this cause4 ,other pueblos1 and the rancherias generally1 were abandoned in time of war2 this seems to have been a potent cause for moving4 ,when pestilence attacked a pueblo the people would sometimes leave in a body and never return4 ,the cliff pueblos and dwellings1 the cavate dwellings1 and the cinder-cone towns were all built and occupied for defensive purposes when powerful enemies threatened4 ,the history of some of the old ruins has been obtained and we know the existing tribes who once occupied them2 others still remain enshrouded in obscurity4 #aad powell-canyons-#gb4;jpg ,a ,,passageway ,,in ,,walpi4 #aae ,,the ,,hurricane ,,fault4 powell-canyons-#gc4;jpg ,,towers ,,of ,,the ,,vermilion ,,cliffs4 #aaf powell-canyons-#gd4;jpg ,,temples ,,and ,,towers ,,of ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen4 #aag powell-canyons-#ge4;jpg ,,panorama4 ,,upper ,,view ,,looking ,,east1 ,,with ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon ,,in ,,the ,,distance4 ,,lower ,,view ,,looking ,,down ,,the ,,toroweap4 #aah powell-canyons-#gf4;jpg ,a ,,passageway ,,in ,,mashongnavi #aai powell-canyons-#gg4;jpg ,,terraced ,,houses ,,in ,,zu,i4 #abj ,,chapter ,v4 ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 ,,in the summer of #ahfg1 with a small party of naturalists1 students1 and amateurs like myself1 ,i visited the mountain region of ,colorado ,territory4 ,while in ,middle ,park ,i explored a little canyon through which the ,grand ,river runs1 immediately below the now well-known watering place1 ,middle ,park ,hot ,springs4 ,later in the fall ,i passed through ,cedar ,canyon1 the gorge by which the ,grand leaves the park4 ,a result of the summer's study was to kindle a desire to explore the canyons of the ,grand1 ,green1 and ,colorado rivers1 and the next summer ,i organized an expedition with the intention of penetrating still farther into that canyon country4 ,as soon as the snows were melted1 so that the main range could be crossed1 ,i went over into ,middle ,park1 and proceeded thence down the ,grand to the head of ,cedar ,canyon1 then across the ,park ,range by ,gore's ,pass1 and in ,october found myself and party encamped on the ,white ,river1 about #abj miles above its mouth4 ,at that point ,i built cabins and established winter quarters1 intending to occupy the cold season1 as far as possible1 in exploring the adjacent country4 ,the winter of #ahfh-fi proved favorable to my purposes1 and several excursions were made1 southward to the ,grand1 down the ,white to the ,green1 northward to the ,yampa1 and around the ,uinta ,mountains4 ,during these several excursions ,i seized every opportunity to study the canyons through which these upper streams run1 and while thus engaged formed plans for the exploration of the canyons of the ,colorado4 ,since that time ,i have been engaged in executing these plans1 sometimes employed in the field1 sometimes in the office4 ,begun originally as an exploration1 the work was finally developed into a survey1 embracing the geography1 geology1 ethnography1 and natural #aba powell-canyons-#gh4;jpg ,,the ,,start ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,station4 ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 history of the country1 and a number of gentlemen have1 from time to time1 assisted me in the work4 ,early in the spring of #ahfi a party was organized for the exploration of the canyons4 ,boats were built in ,chicago and transported by rail to the point where the ,union ,pacific ,railroad crosses the ,green ,river4 ,with these we were to descend the ,green to the ,colorado1 and the ,colorado down to the foot of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,may #bd1 #ahfi4--,the good people of ,green ,river ,city turn out to see us start4 ,we raise our little flag1 push the boats from shore1 and the swift current carries us down4 ,our boats are four in number4 ,three are built of oak2 stanch and firm2 double-ribbed1 with double stem and stern posts1 and further strengthened by bulkheads1 dividing each into three compartments4 ,two of these1 the fore and aft1 are decked1 forming water-tight cabins4 ,it is expected these will buoy the boats should the waves roll over them in rough water4 ,the fourth boat is made of pine1 very light1 but #af feet in length1 with a sharp cutwater1 and every way built for fast rowing1 and divided into compartments as the others4 ,the little vessels are #ba feet long1 and1 taking out the cargoes1 can be carried by four men4 ,we take with us rations deemed sufficient to last ten months1 for we expect1 when winter comes on and the river is filled with ice1 to lie over at some point until spring arrives2 and so we take with us abundant supplies of clothing1 likewise4 ,we have also a large quantity of ammunition and two or three dozen traps4 ,for the purpose of building cabins1 repairing boats1 and meeting other exigencies1 we are supplied with axes1 hammers1 saws1 augers1 and other tools1 and a quantity of nails and screws4 ,for scientific work1 we have two sextants1 four chronometers1 a number of barometers1 thermometers1 compasses1 and other instruments4 ,the flour is divided into three equal parts2 the meat1 and all other articles of our rations1 in the same way4 ,each of the larger boats has an axe1 hammer1 saw1 auger1 and other tools1 so that all are loaded alike4 ,we distribute the cargoes in this way that we may not be entirely destitute of some important article should any one of the boats be lost4 ,in the small boat we pack a part of the scientific #abb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 instruments1 three guns1 and three small bundles of clothing1 only2 and in this ,i proceed in advance to explore the channel4 ,j4 ,c4 ,sumner and ,william ,h4 ,dunn are my boatmen in the ,emma ,dean2 then follows ,kitty ,clyde's ,sister1 manned by ,w4 ,h4 ,powell and ,g4 ,y4 ,bradley2 next1 the ,no ,name1 with ,o4 ,g4 ,howland1 ,seneca ,howland1 and ,frank ,goodman2 and last comes the ,maid of the ,canyon1 with ,w4 ,e4 ,hawkins and ,andrew ,hall4 ,sumner was a soldier during the late war1 and before and since that time has been a great traveler in the wilds of the ,mississippi ,valley and the ,rocky ,mountains as an amateur hunter4 ,he is a fair-haired1 delicate-looking man1 but a veteran in experience1 and has performed the feat of crossing the ,rocky ,mountains in midwinter on snowshoes4 ,he spent the winter of #ahhf-hg in ,middle ,park1 ,colorado1 for the purpose of making some natural history collections for me1 and succeeded in killing three grizzlies1 two mountain lions1 and a large number of elk1 deer1 sheep1 wolves1 beavers1 and many other animals4 ,when ,bayard ,taylor traveled through the parks of ,colorado1 ,sumner was his guide1 and he speaks in glowing terms of ,mr4 ,taylor's genial qualities in camp1 but he was mortally offended when the great traveler requested him to act as doorkeeper at ,breckenridge to receive the admission fee from those who attended his lectures4 ,dunn was a hunter1 trapper1 and mule-packer in ,colorado for many years4 ,he dresses in buckskin with a dark oleaginous luster1 doubtless due to the fact that he has lived on fat venison and killed many beavers since he first donned his uniform years ago4 ,his raven hair falls down to his back1 for he has a sublime contempt of shears and razors4 ,captain ,powell was an officer of artillery during the late war and was captured on the #bb;d day of ,july1 #ahfd1 at ,atlanta and served a ten months' term in prison at ,charleston1 where he was placed with other officers under fire4 ,he is silent1 moody1 and sarcastic1 though sometimes he enlivens the camp at night with a song4 ,he is never surprised at anything1 his coolness never deserts him1 and he would choke the belching throat of a volcano if he thought the spitfire meant anything but fun4 ,we call him ,old ,shady4 ,bradley1 a lieutenant during the late war1 and since orderly sergeant ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 in the regular army1 was1 a few weeks previous to our start1 discharged1 by order of the ,secretary of ,war1 that he might go on this trip4 ,he is scrupulously careful1 and a little mishap works him into a passion1 powell-canyons-#gi4;jpg ,,view ,,in ,,sichumovi4 but when labor is needed he has a ready hand and powerful arm1 and in danger1 rapid judgment and unerring skill4 ,a great difficulty or peril changes the petulant spirit into a brave1 generous soul4 powell-canyons-#hj4;jpg ,,trail ,,up ,,walpi ,,mesa4 ,,from ,,green ,,eiver ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 #abc ,o4 ,g4 ,howland is a printer by trade1 an editor by profession1 and a hunter by choice4 ,when busily employed he usually puts his hat in his pocket1 and his thin hair and long beard stream in the wind1 giving him a wild look1 much like that of ,king ,lear in an illustrated copy of ,shakespeare which tumbles around the camp4 ,seneca ,howland is a quiet1 pensive young man1 and a great favorite with all4 ,goodman is a stranger to us--a stout1 willing ,englishman1 with florid face and more florid anticipations of a glorious trip4 powell-canyons-#ha4;jpg ,,ridges ,,on ,,bitter ,,creek4 ,billy ,hawkins1 the cook1 was a soldier in the ,union ,army during the war1 and when discharged at its close went ,west1 and since then has been engaged as teamster on the plains or hunter in the mountains4 ,he is an athlete and a jovial good fellow1 who hardly seems to know his own strength4 ,hall is a ,scotch boy1 nineteen years old1 with what seems to us a secondhand head1 which doubtless came down to him from some knight who wore it during the ,border ,wars4 ,it looks a very old head indeed1 with deep-set blue eyes and beaked nose4 ,young as he is1 ,hall has had experience in hunting1 trapping1 and fighting ,indians1 and he makes the most of it1 for he can tell a good story1 and is never encumbered by unnecessary scruples in giving to his narratives those embellishments which help to make a story complete4 ,he is always ready for work or play and is a good hand at either4 ,our boats are heavily loaded1 and only with the utmost care is it pos- #abd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 sible to float in the rough river without shipping water4 ,a mile or two below town we run on a sandbar4 ,the men jump into the stream and thus lighten the vessels1 so that they drift over1 and on we go4 powell-canyons-#hb4;jpg ,,mesas4 ,in trying to avoid a rock an oar is broken on one of the boats1 and1 thus crippled1 she strikes4 ,the current is swift and she is sent reeling and rocking into the eddy4 ,in the confusion two other oars are lost overboard1 and the men seem quite discomfited1 much to the amusement of the other members of the party4 ,catching the oars and starting again1 the boats are once more borne down the stream1 until we land at a small cottonwood grove on the bank and camp for noon4 ,during the afternoon we run down to a point where the river sweeps the foot of an overhanging cliff1 and here we camp for the night4 ,the sun is yet two hours high1 so ,i climb the cliffs and walk back among the strangely carved rocks of the ,green ,river bad lands4 ,these are sandstones and shales1 gray and buff1 red and brown1 blue and black strata in many alternations1 lying nearly horizontal1 and almost without soil and vegetation4 ,they are very friable1 and the rain and streams have carved them into quaint shapes4 ,barren desolation is stretched before me2 and yet there is a beauty in the scene4 ,the fantastic carvings1 imitating architectural forms and suggesting rude but weird ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 #abe statuary1 with the bright and varied colors of the rocks1 conspire to make a scene such as the dweller in verdure-clad hills can scarcely appreciate4 ,standing on a high point1 ,i can look off in every direction over a vast landscape1 with salient rocks and cliffs glittering in the evening sun4 ,dark shadows are settling in the valleys and gulches1 and the heights are made higher and the depths deeper by the glamour and witchery of light and shade4 ,away to the south the ,uinta ,mountains stretch in a long line1--high peaks thrust into the sky1 and snow fields glittering like lakes of molten silver1 and pine forests in somber green1 and rosy clouds playing around the borders of huge1 black masses2 and heights and clouds and mountains and snow fields and forests and rock-lands are blended into one grand view4 ,now the sun goes down1 and ,i return to camp4 ,may #be4--,we start early this morning and run along at a good powell-canyons-#hc4;jpg ,a ,,valley ,,west ,,of ,,green ,,river4 rate until about nine o'clock1 when we are brought up on a gravelly bar4 ,all jump out and help the boats over by main strength4 ,then a rain comes on1 and river and clouds conspire to give us a thorough drenching4 ,wet1 chilled1 and tired to exhaustion1 we stop at a cotton- #abf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colchado4 wood grove on the bank1 build a huge fire1 make a cup of coffee1 and are soon refreshed and quite merry4 ,when the clouds get out of our sunshine we start again4 ,a few miles farther down a flock of mountain sheep are seen on a cliff to the right4 ,the boats are quietly tied up and three or four men go after them4 ,in the course of two powell-canyons-#hd4;jpg ,,alcove ,,lands4 or three hours they return4 ,the cook has been successful in bringing down a fat lamb4 ,the unsuccessful hunters taunt him with finding it dead2 but it is soon dressed1 cooked1 and eaten1 and makes a fine four o'clock dinner4 ,all aboard1 and down the river for another dozen miles4 ,on the way we pass the mouth of ,black's ,fork1 a dirty little stream that seems somewhat swollen4 ,just below its mouth we land and camp4 ,may #bf4--,to-day we pass several curiously shaped buttes1 standing between the west bank of the river and the high bluffs beyond4 ,these buttes are outliers of the same beds of rocks as are exposed on the faces of the bluffs1--thinly laminated shales and sandstones of many colors1 standing above in vertical cliffs and buttressed below with a water-carved talus2 some of them attain an altitude of nearly a thousand feet above the level of the river4 ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 #abg ,we glide quietly down the placid stream past the carved cliffs of the mauvaises terres1 now and then obtaining glimpses of distant mountains4 ,occasionally1 deer are started from the glades among the willows2 and several wild geese1 after a chase through the water1 are shot4 ,after dinner we pass through a short and narrow canyon into a broad valley2 from this1 long1 lateral valleys stretch back on either side as far as the eye can reach4 ,two or three miles below1 ,henry's ,fork enters from the right4 ,we land a short distance above the junction1 where a cache of instruments and rations was made several months ago in a cave at the foot of the cliff1 a distance back from the river4 ,here they were safe from the elements and wild beasts1 but not from man4 ,some anxiety is powell-canyons-#he4;jpg ,,bad ,,lands4 felt1 as we have learned that a party of ,indians have been camped near the place for several weeks4 ,our fears are soon allayed1 for we find the cache undisturbed4 ,our chronometer wheels have not been taken for hair ornaments1 our barometer tubes for beads1 or the sextant thrown into the river as bad medicine1 as had been predicted4 ,taking up our cache1 we pass down to the foot of the ,uinta ,mountains and in a cold storm go into camp4 #abh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,the river is running to the south2 the mountains have an easterly and westerly trend directly athwart its course1 yet it glides on in a quiet way as if it thought a mountain range no formidable obstruction4 ,it enters the range by a flaring1 brilliant red gorge1 that may be seen from the north a score of miles away4 ,the great mass of the powell-canyons-#hf4;jpg ,,our ,,indian ,,guide4 mountain ridge through which the gorge is cut is composed of bright vermilion rocks2 but they are surmounted by broad bands of mottled buff and gray1 and these bands come down with a gentle curve to the water's edge on the nearer slope of the mountain4 ,this is the head of the first of the canyons we are about to explore--an introductory one to a series made by the river through this ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 #abi range4 ,we name it ,flaming ,gorge4 ,the cliffs1 or walls1 we find on measurement to be about #a1bjj feet high4 ,may #bg4--,to-day it rains1 and we employ the time in repairing one of our barometers1 which was broken on the way from ,new ,york4 ,a new tube has to be put in2 that is1 a long glass tube has to be filled with mercury1 four or five inches at a time1 and each installment boiled powell-canyons-#hg4;jpg ,,our ,,guide',s ,,boy4 over a spirit lamp4 ,it is a delicate task to do this without breaking the glass2 but we have success1 and are ready to measure mountains once more4 ,may #bh4--,to-day we go to the summit of the cliff on the left and take observations for altitude1 and are variously employed in topographic and geologic work4 #acj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,may #bi4--,this morning ,bradley and ,i cross the river and climb more than a thousand feet to a point where we can see the stream sweeping in a long1 beautiful curve through the gorge below4 ,turning and looking to the west1 we can see the valley of ,henry's ,fork1 through which1 for many miles1 the little river flows in a tortuous channel4 ,cottonwood groves are planted here and there along its course1 and between them are stretches of grass land4 ,the narrow mountain valley is inclosed on either side by sloping walls of naked rock of many powell-canyons-#hh4;jpg ,,green ,,river ,,plains4 bright colors4 ,to the south of the valley are the ,uintas1 and the peaks of the ,wasatch ,mountains can be faintly seen in the far west4 ,to the north1 desert plains1 dotted here and there with curiously carved hills and buttes1 extend to the limit of vision4 ,for many years this valley has been the home of a number of mountaineers1 who were originally hunters and trappers1 living with the ,indians4 ,most of them have one or more ,indian wives4 ,they no longer roam with the nomadic tribes in pursuit of buckskin or beaver1 but have accumulated herds of cattle and horses1 and consider themselves quite well to do4 ,some of them have built cabins2 others ,,from ,,green ,,river ,,city ,,to ,,flaming ,,gorge4 #aca still live in lodges4 ,john ,baker is one of the most famous of these men1 and from our point of view we can see his lodge1 three or four miles up the river4 ,the distance from ,green ,river ,city to ,flaming ,gorge is #fb miles4 ,the river runs between bluffs1 in some places standing so close to each other that no flood plain is seen4 ,at such a point the river might properly be said to run through a canyon4 ,the bad lands on either side are interrupted here and there by patches of ,artemisia1 or sage brush4 ,where there is a flood plain along either side of the river1 a few cottonwoods may be seen4 powell-canyons-#hi4;jpg ,,the ,,chief ,,kiva ,,of ,,shupaulovi4 #acb powell-canyons-#ij4;jpg ,,walpi4 #acc ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 ,,one must not think of a mountain range as a line of peaks standing on a plain1 but as a broad platform many miles wide from which mountains have been carved by the waters4 ,one must conceive1 too1 that this plateau is cut by gulches and canyons in many directions and that beautiful valleys are scattered about at different altitudes4 ,the first series of canyons we are about to explore constitutes a river channel through such a range of mountains4 ,the canyon is cut nearly halfway through the range1 then turns to the east and is cut along the central line1 or axis1 gradually crossing it to the south4 ,keeping this direction for more than #ej miles1 it then turns abruptly to a southwest course1 and goes diagonally through the southern slope of the range4 ,this much we know before entering1 as we made a partial exploration of the region last fall1 climbing many of its peaks1 and in a few places reaching the brink of the canyon walls and looking over precipices many hundreds of feet high to the water below4 ,here and there the walls are broken by lateral canyons1 the channels of little streams entering the river4 ,through two or three of these we found our way down to the ,green in early winter and walked along the low water-beach at the foot of the cliffs for several miles4 ,where the river has this general easterly direction the western part only has cut for itself a canyon1 while the eastern has formed a broad valley1 called1 in honor of an old-time trapper1 ,brown's ,park1 and long known as a favorite winter resort for mountain men and ,indians4 ,may #cj4--,this morning we are ready to enter the mysterious canyon1 and start with some anxiety4 ,the old mountaineers tell us that it cannot be run2 the ,indians say1 ,water heap catch 'em2 but all are eager for the trial1 and off we go4 #acd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,entering ,flaming ,gorge1 we quickly run through it on a swift current and emerge into a little park4 ,half a mile below1 the river wheels sharply to the left and enters another canyon cut into the mountain4 ,we enter the narrow passage4 ,on either side the walls rapidly increase in altitude4 ,on the left are overhanging ledges and cliffs1--#ejj1 #a1jjj1 #a1ejj feet high4 ,on the right the rocks are broken and ragged1 and the water fills the channel from cliff to cliff4 ,now the river turns abruptly around a point to the right1 and the waters plunge swiftly down among great rocks2 and here we have our first experience with canyon rapids4 ,i stand up on the deck of my boat to seek a way among the wave-beaten rocks4 ,all untried as we are with such waters1 the moments are filled with intense anxiety4 ,soon our boats reach the swift current2 a stroke or two1 now on this4 side1 now on that1 and we thread the narrow passage with exhilarating ,velocity1 mounting the high waves1 whose foaming crests dash over us1 and plunging into the troughs1 until we reach the quiet water below4 ,then comes a feeling of great relief4 ,our first rapid is run4 ,another mile1 and we come into the valley again4 powell-canyons-#ia4;jpg ,,camp ,,at ,,flaming ,,gorge #ace powell-canyons-#ib4;jpg ,,mashongnavi1 ,,with ,,shupaulovi ,,in ,,the ,,distance4 #acf powell-canyons-#ic4;jpg ,,horseshoe ,,canyon4 ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #acg ,let me explain this canyon4 ,where the river turns to the left above1 it takes a course directly into the mountain1 penetrating to its very heart1 then wheels back upon itself1 and runs out into the valley from which it started only half a mile below the point at which it entered2 so the canyon is in the form of an elongated letter ,u1 with the apex in the center of the mountain4 ,we name it ,horseshoe ,canyon4 ,soon we leave the valley and enter another short canyon1 very narrow at first1 but widening below as the canyon walls increase in height4 ,here we discover the mouth of a beautiful little creek coming down through its narrow water-worn cleft4 ,just at its entrance there is a park of two or three hundred acres1 walled on every side by almost vertical cliffs hundreds of feet in altitude1 with three gateways through the walls--one up the river1 another down1 and a third through which the creek comes in4 ,the river is broad1 deep1 and quiet1 and its waters mirror towering rocks4 ,kingfishers are playing about the streams1 and so we adopt as names ,kingfisher ,creek1 ,kingfisher ,park1 and ,kingfisher ,canyon4 ,at night we camp at the foot of this canyon4 ,our general course this day has been south1 but here the river turns to the east around a point which is rounded to the shape of a dome4 ,on its sides little cells have been carved by the action of the water1 and in these pits1 which cover the face of the dome1 hundreds of swallows have built their nests4 ,as they flit about the cliffs1 they look like swarms of bees1 giving to the whole the appearance of a colossal beehive of the old-time form1 and so we name it ,beehive ,point4 ,the opposite wall is a vast amphitheater1 rising in a succession of terraces to a height of #a1bjj or #a1ejj feet4 ,each step is built of red sandstone1 with a face of naked red rock and a glacis clothed with verdure4 ,so the amphitheater seems banded red and green1 and the evening sun is playing with roseate flashes on the rocks1 with shimmering green on the cedars' spray1 and with iridescent gleams on the dancing waves4 ,the landscape revels in the sunshine4 ,may #ca4--,we start down another canyon and reach rapids made dangerous by high rocks lying in the channel2 so we run ashore and let our boats down with lines4 ,in the afternoon we come to more dangerous rapids and stop to examine them4 ,i find we must do the same work #ach #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 again1 but1 being on the wrong side of the river to obtain a foothold1 must first cross over--no very easy matter in such a current1 with rapids and rocks below4 ,we take the pioneer boat1 ,emma ,dean1 over1 and unload her on the bank2 then she returns and takes another load4 ,running back and forth1 she soon has half our cargo over4 ,then one of the larger boats is manned and taken across1 but is carried down almost to the rocks in spite of hard rowing4 ,the other boats follow and make the landing1 and we go into camp for the night4 ,at the foot of the cliff on this side there is a long slope covered with pines2 under these we make our beds1 and soon after sunset are seeking rest and sleep4 ,the cliffs on either side are of red sandstone and stretch toward the heavens #b1ejj feet4 ,on this side the long1 pine-clad slope is surmounted by perpendicular cliffs1 with pines on their summits4 ,the wall on the other side is bare rock from the water's edge up #b1jjj feet1 then slopes back1 giving footing to pines and cedars4 ,as the twilight deepens1 the rocks grow dark and somber2 the threatening roar of the water is loud and constant1 and ,i lie awake with thoughts of the morrow and the canyons to come1 interrupted now and then by characteristics of the scenery that attract my attention4 ,and here ,i make a discovery4 ,on looking at the mountain directly in front1 the steepness of the slope is greatly exaggerated1 while the distance to its summit and its true altitude are correspondingly diminished4 ,i have heretofore found that to judge properly of the slope of a mountain side1 one must see it in profile4 ,in coming down the river this afternoon1 ,i observed the slope of a particular part of the wall and made an estimate of its altitude4 ,while at supper1 ,i noticed the same cliff from a position facing it1 and it seemed steeper1 but not half so high4 ,now lying on my side and looking at it1 the true proportions appear4 ,this seems a wonder1 and ,i rise to take a view of it standing4 ,it is the same cliff as at supper time4 ,lying down again1 it is the cliff as seen in profile1 with a long slope and distant summit4 ,musing on this1 ,i forget the morrow and the canyons to come2 ,i have found a way to estimate the altitude and slope of an inclination1 in like manner as ,i can judge of distance along the horizon4 ,the reason is simple4 ,a reference to the stereoscope will ,,from ,,flaming ,,goege ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodoee4 #aci suggest it4 ,the distance between the eyes forms a base line for optical triangulation4 ,june #a4--,to-day we have an exciting ride4 ,the river rolls down the canyon at a wonderful rate1 and1 with no rocks in the way1 we make #adj powell-canyons-#id4;jpg ,,scene ,,in ,,hand4 almost railroad speed4 ,here and there the water rushes into a narrow gorge2 the rocks on the side roll it into the center in great waves1 and the boats go leaping and bounding over these like things of life1 reminding me of scenes witnessed in ,middle ,park--herds of startled deer bounding through forests beset with fallen timber4 ,i #adj powell-canyons-#ie4;jpg ,,pescado ,,pueblo----,,outside ,,steps4 ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #ada mention the resemblance to some of the hunters1 and so striking is it that the expression1 ,see the blacktails jumping the logs1 comes to be a common one4 ,at times the waves break and roll over the boats1 which necessitates much bailing and obliges us to stop occasionally for that purpose4 ,at one time we run twelve miles in an hour1 stoppages included4 ,last spring ,i had a conversation with an old ,indian named ,priate1 who told me about one of his tribe attempting to run this canyon4 ,the rocks1 he said1 holding his hands above his head1 his arms vertical1 and looking between them to the heavens1 the rocks h-e-a-p1 powell-canyons-#if4;jpg ,,oven ,,near ,,pescado ,,pueblo4 h-e-a-p high2 the water go h-oo-woogh1 h-oo-woogh2 water-pony li-e-a-p buck2 water catch 'em2 no see 'em ,injun any more6 no see 'em squaw any more6 no see 'em papoose any more6 ,those who have seen these wild ,indian ponies rearing alternately before and behind1 or bucking1 as it is called in the vernacular1 will appreciate his description4 ,at last we come to calm water1 and a threatening roar is heard in the distance4 ,slowly approaching the point whence the sound issues1 we come near to falls1 and tie up just above them on the left4 ,here we shall be compelled to make a portage2 so we unload the boats1 #adb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#ig4;jpg ,,primitive ,,andiron ,,in ,,shumopavi4 and fasten a long line to the bow of the smaller one1 and another to the stern1 and moor her close to the brink of the fall4 ,then the bowline is taken below and made fast2 the stern line is held by five or six men1 and the boat let down as long as they can hold her against the rushing waters2 then1 letting go one end of the line1 it runs through the ring2 the boat leaps over the fall and is caught by the lower rope4 ,now we rest for the night4 ,june #b4--,this morning we make a trail among the rocks1 transport the cargoes to a point below the fall1 let the remaining boats over1 and are ready to start before noon4 ,on a high rock by which the trail passes we find the inscription3 ,ashley #ah-e4 ,the third figure is obscure--some of the party reading it #ahce1 some #ahee4 ,james ,baker1 an old-time mountaineer1 once told me about a party of men starting down the river1 and ,ashley was ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #adc named as one4 ,the story runs that the boat was swamped1 and some of the party drowned in one of the canyons below4 ,the word ,ashley is a warning to us1 and we resolve on great caution4 ,ashley ,falls is the name we give to the cataract4 ,the river is very narrow1 the right wall vertical for #bjj or #cjj feet1 the left towering to a great height1 with a vast pile of broken rocks lying between the foot of the cliff and the water4 ,some of the rocks broken down from the ledge above have tumbled into the channel and caused this fall4 ,one great cubical block1 thirty or forty feet high1 stands in the middle of the stream1 and the waters1 parting to either side1 plunge down about twelve feet1 and are broken again by the smaller rocks into a rapid below4 ,immediately below the falls the water occupies the entire channel1 there being no talus at the foot of the cliffs4 powell-canyons-#ih4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,healing-,,stones4 #add powell-canyons-#ii4;jpg ,k#a,,va ,,and ,,stone ,,corrals ,,of ,,mashongnavi4 ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #ade ,we embark and run down a short distance1 where we find a landing-place for dinner4 ,on the waves again all the afternoon4 ,near the lower end of this canyon1 to which we have given the name of ,red ,canyon1 is a little park1 where streams come down from distant mountain summits and enter the river on either side2 and here we camp for the night under two stately pines4 ,june #c4--,this morning we spread our rations1 clothes1 etc41 on the ground to dry1 and several of the party go out for a hunt4 ,i take a walk of five or six miles up to a pine-grove park1 its grassy carpet bedecked with crimson velvet flowers1 set in groups on the stems of pear-shaped cactus plants2 patches of painted cups are seen here and there1 with yellow blossoms protruding through scarlet bracts2 little blue-eyed flowers are peeping through the grass2 and the air is filled with fragrance from the white blossoms of the ,spiraea4 ,a mountain brook runs through the midst1 ponded below by beaver dams4 ,it is a quiet place for retirement from the raging waters of the canyon4 ,it will be remembered that the course of the river from ,flaming ,gorge to ,beehive ,point is in a southerly direction and at right angles to the ,uinta ,mountains1 and cuts into the range until it reaches a point within five miles of the crest1 where it turns to the east and pursues a course not quite parallel to the trend of the range1 but crosses the axis slowly in a direction a little south of east4 ,thus there is a triangular tract between the river and the axis of the mountain1 with its acute angle extending eastward4 ,i climb the mountain overlooking this country4 ,to the east the peaks are not very high1 and already most of the snow has melted1 but little patches lie here and there under the lee of ledges of rock4 ,to the west the peaks grow higher and the snow fields larger4 ,between the brink of the canyon and the foot of these peaks1 there is a high bench4 ,a number of creeks have their sources in the snowbanks to the south and run north into the canyon1 tumbling down from #c1jjj to #e1jjj feet in a distance of five or six miles4 ,along their upper courses they run through grassy valleys1 but as they approach ,red ,canyon they rapidly disappear under the general surface of the country1 and emerge into the canyon below in #adf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 deep1 dark gorges of their own4 ,each of these short lateral canyons is marked by a succession of cascades and a wild confusion of rocks and trees and fallen timber and thick undergrowth4 ,the little valleys above are beautiful parks2 between the parks are stately pine forests1 half hiding ledges of red sandstone4 ,mule deer and elk abound2 grizzly bears1 too1 are abundant2 and here wild cats1 wolverines1 and mountain lions are at home4 ,the forest aisles are filled with the music of birds1 and the parks are decked powell-canyons-#ajj4;jpg ,,hogbacks1 ,,with ,,intervening ,,valleys4 with flowers4 ,noisy brooks meander through them2 ledges of moss-covered rocks are seen2 and gleaming in the distance are the snow fields1 and the mountain tops are away in the clouds4 ,june #d---,we start early and run through to ,brown's ,park4 ,halfway down the valley1 a spur of a red mountain stretches across the river1 which cuts a canyon through it4 ,here the walls are comparatively low1 but vertical4 ,a vast number of swallows have built their adobe houses on the face of the cliffs1 on either side of the river4 ,the waters are deep and quiet1 but the swallows are swift and noisy enough1 sweeping by in their curved paths through the air or chattering from the rocks1 while the young ones stretch their little heads on naked necks ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #adg through the doorways of their mud houses and clamor for food4 ,they are a noisy people4 ,we call this ,swallow ,canyon4 ,still down the river we glide until an early hour in the afternoon1 when we go into camp under a giant cottonwood standing on the right bank a little way back from the stream4 ,the party has succeeded in killing a fine lot of wild ducks1 and during the afternoon a mess of fish is taken4 ,june #e4--,with one of the men ,i climb a mountain1 off on the right4 ,a long spur1 with broken ledges of rock1 puts down to the river1 and along its course1 or up the hogback1 as it is called1 ,i make the ascent4 ,dunn1 who is climbing to the same point1 is coming up the gulch4 ,two hours' hard work has brought us to the summit4 ,these mountains are all verdure-clad2 pine and cedar forests are set on green terraces2 snow-clad mountains are seen in the distance1 to the west2 the plains of the upper ,green stretch out before us to the north until they are lost in the blue heavens2 but half of the river-cleft range intervenes1 and the river itself is at our feet4 ,this half range1 beyond the river1 is composed of long ridges nearly parallel with the valley4 ,on the farther ridge1 to the north1 four creeks have their sources4 ,these cut through the intervening ridges1 one of which is much higher than that on which they head1 by canyon gorges2 then they run with gentle curves across the valley1 their banks set with willows1 box-elders1 and cottonwood groves4 ,to the east we look up the valley of the ,vermilion1 through which ,fremont found his path on his way to the great parks of ,colorado4 ,the reading of the barometer taken1 we start down in company1 and reach camp tired and hungry1 which does not abate one bit our enthusiasm as we tell of the day's work with its glory of landscape4 ,june #f4--;,at daybreak ,i am awakened by a chorus of birds4 ,it seems as if all the feathered songsters of the region have come to the old tree4 ,several species of warblers1 woodpeckers1 and flickers above1 meadow larks in the grass1 and wild geese in the river4 ,i recline on my elbow and watch a lark near by1 and then awaken my bedfellow1 to listen to my ,jenny ,lind4 ,a real morning concert for me2 none of your matines6 ,our cook has been an ox-driver1 or bull-whacker1 on the plains1 in #adh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#aja4;jpg ,,an ,,ancient ,,pueblo ,,metate4 one of those long trains now no longer seen1 and he hasn't forgotten his old ways4 ,in the midst of the concert1 his voice breaks in3 ,roll out6 roll out6 bulls in the corral6 chain up the gaps6 ,roll out6 roll out6 roll out6 ,and this is our breakfast bell4 ,to-day we pass through1 the park1 and camp at the head of another canyon4 ,june #g4--,to-day two or three of us climb to the summit of the cliff on the left1 and find its altitude above camp to be #b1jhf feet4 ,the rocks are split with fissures1 deep and narrow1 sometimes a hundred feet or more to the bottom1 and these fissures are filled with loose earth and decayed vegetation in which lofty pines find root4 ,on a rock we find a pool of clear1 cold water1 caught from yesterday evening's shower4 ,after a good drink we walk out to the brink of the canyon and look down to the water below4 ,i can do this now1 but it has taken several years of mountain climbing to cool my nerves so that ,i can sit with my feet over the edge and calmly look down a precipice #b1jjj feet4 ,and yet ,i cannot look on and see another do the same4 ,i must either bid him come away or turn my head4 ,the canyon walls are buttressed on a grand scale1 with deep alcoves intervening2 columned crags crown the cliffs1 and the river is rolling below4 ,when we return to camp at noon the sun shines in splendor on vermilion walls1 shaded into green and gray where the rocks are lichened over2 the river fills the channel from wall to wall1 and the canyon opens1 like a beautiful portal1 to a region of glory4 ,this evening1 as ,i write1 the sun is going down and the shadows are settling in the canyon4 ,the vermilion gleams and roseate hues1 blending with the green and gray tints1 are slowly changing to somber brown above1 and black shadows are creeping over them below2 and now it is a dark portal to a region of gloom--the gateway through which we are to enter on our voyage of exploration tomorrow4 ,what shall we find8 powell-canyons-#ajb4;jpg ,a ,,zu ,,stool4 ,,from ,,flaming ,,gorge ,,to ,,the ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 #adi ,the distance from ,flaming ,gorge to ,beehive ,point is #i #b_/c miles4 ,besides passing through the gorge1 the river runs through ,horseshoe and ,kingfisher canyons1 separated by short valleys4 ,the highest point on the walls at ,flaming ,gorge is #a1cjj feet above the river4 ,the east wall at the apex of ,horseshoe ,canyon is about #a1fjj feet above the water's edge1 and from this point the walls slope both to the head and foot of the canyon4 ,kingfisher ,canyon1 starting at the water's edge above1 steadily increases in altitude to #a1bjj feet at the foot4 ,red ,canyon is #be #b_/c miles long1 and the highest walls are about #b1ejj feet4 ,brown's ,park is a valley1 bounded on either side by a mountain range1 really an expansion of the canyon4 ,the river1 through the park1 is #ce #a_/b miles long1 but passes through two short canyons on its way1 where spurs from the mountains on the south are thrust across its course4 powell-canyons-#ajc4;jpg #aej powell-canyons-#ajd4;jpg ,,the ,,home ,,of ,,the ,,chief4 #aea ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodore4 ,,june #h4--,we enter the canyon1 and until noon find a succession of rapids1 over which1 our boats have to be taken4 ,here ,i must explain our method of proceeding at such places4 ,the ,emma ,dean 'goes in advance2 the other boats follow1 in obedience to signals4 ,when we approach a rapid1 or what on other rivers would often be called a fall1 ,i stand on deck to examine it1 while the oarsmen back water1 and we drift on as slowly as possible4 ,if ,i can see a clear chute between the rocks1 away we go2 but if the channel is beset entirely across1 we signal the other boats1 pull to land1 and ,i walk along the shore for closer examination4 ,if this reveals no clear channel1 hard work begins4 ,we drop the boats to the very head of the dangerous place and let them over by lines or make a portage1 frequently carrying both boats and cargoes over the rocks4 ,the waves caused by such falls in a river differ much from the waves of the sea4 ,the water of an ocean wave merely rises and falls2 the form only passes on1 and form chases form unceasingly4 ,a body floating on such waves merely rises and sinks--does not progress unless impelled by wind or some other power4 ,but here the water of the wave passes on while the form remains4 ,the waters plunge down ten or twenty feet to the foot of a fall1 spring up again in a great wave1 then down and up in a series of billows that gradually disappear in the more quiet waters below2 but these waves are always there1 and one can stand above and count them4 ,a boat riding such billows leaps and plunges along with great velocity4 ,now1 the difficulty in riding over these falls1 when no rocks are in the way1 is with the first wave at the foot4 ,this will sometimes gather for a moment1 heap up higher and higher1 and then break back4 #aeb #b ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,if the boat strikes it the instant after it breaks1 she cuts through1 and the mad breaker dashes its spray over the boat and washes overboard all who do not cling tightly4 ,if the boat1 in going over the falls1 chances to get caught in some side current and is turned from its course1 so as to strike the wave broadside on1 and the wave breaks at the same instant1 the boat is capsized2 then we must cling to her1 for the water-tight compartments act as buoys and she cannot sink2 and so we go1 dragged through the waves1 until still waters are reached1 when we right the boat and climb aboard4 ,we have several such experiences to-day4 ,at night we camp on the right bank1 on a little shelving rock between the river and the foot of the cliff2 and with night comes gloom into these great depths4 ,after supper we sit by our camp fire1 made of driftwood caught by the rocks1 and tell stories of wild life2 for the men have seen such in the mountains or on the plains1 and on the battlefields of the ,south4 ,it is late before we spread our blankets on the beach4 ,lying down1 we look up through the canyon and see that only a little of the blue heaven appears overhead--a crescent of blue sky1 with two or three constellations peering down upon us4 ,i do not sleep for some time1 as the excitement of the day has not worn off4 ,soon ,i see a bright star that appears to rest on the very verge of the cliff overhead to the east4 ,slowly it seems to float from its resting place on the rock over the canyon4 ,at first it appears like a jewel set on the brink of the cliff1 but as it moves out from the rock ,i almost wonder that it does not fall4 ,in fact1 it does seem to descend in a gentle curve1 as though the bright sky in which the stars are set were spread across the canyon1 resting on either wall1 and swayed down by its own weight4 ,the stars appear to be in the canyon4 ,i soon discover that it is the bright star ,vega2 so it occurs to me to designate this part of the wall as the ,cliff of the ,harp4 ,june #i4--,one of the party suggests that we call this the ,canyon of ,lodore1 and the name is adopted4 ,very slowly we make our way1 often climbing on the rocks at the edge of the water for a few hundred yards to examine the channel before running it4 ,during the afternoon we come to a place where it is necessary to make a portage4 ,the little boat is landed and the others are signaled to come up4 ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodoke4 #aec ,when these rapids or broken falls occur usually the channel is suddenly narrowed by rocks which have been tumbled from the cliffs or powell-canyons-#aje4;jpg ,,gate ,,of ,,lodore4 have been washed in by lateral streams4 ,immediately above the narrow1 rocky channel1 on one or both sides1 there is often a bay of quiet water1 in which a landing can be made with ease4 ,sometimes #aed #d ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the water descends with a smooth1 unruffled surface from the broad1 quiet spread above into the narrow1 angry channel below by a semicircular sag4 ,great care must be taken not to pass over the brink into this deceptive pit1 but above it we can row with safety4 ,i walk along the bank to examine the ground1 leaving one of my men with a flag to guide the other boats to the landing-place4 ,i soon see one of the boats make shore all right1 and feel no more concern2 but a minute after1 ,i hear a shout1 and1 looking around1 see one of the boats shooting down the center of the sag4 ,it is the ,no ,name1 with ,captain ,howland1 his brother1 and ,goodman4 ,i feel that its going over is inevitable1 and run to save the third boat4 ,a minute more1 and she turns the point and heads for the shore4 ,then ,i turn down stream again and scramble along to look for the boat that has gone over4 ,the first fall is not great1 only #aj or #ab feet1 and we often run such2 but below1 the river tumbles down again for #dj or #ej feet1 in a channel filled with dangerous rocks that break the waves into whirlpools and beat them into foam4 ,i pass around a great crag just in time to see the boat strike a rock and1 rebounding from the shock1 careen and fill its open compartment with water4 ,two of the men lose their oars2 she swings around and is carried down at a rapid rate1 broadside on1 for a few yards1 when1 striking amidships on another rock with great force1 she is broken quite in two and the men are thrown into the river4 ,but the larger part of the boat floats buoyantly1 and they soon seize it1 and down the river they drift1 past the rocks for a few hundred yards1 to a second rapid filled with huge boulders1 where the boat strikes again and is dashed to pieces1 and the men and fragments are soon carried beyond my sight4 ,running along1 ,i turn a bend and see a man's head above the water1 washed about in a whirlpool below a great rock4 ,it is ,frank ,goodman1 clinging to the rock with a grip upon which life depends4 ,coming opposite1 ,i see ,howland trying to go to his aid from an island on which he has been washed4 ,soon he comes near enough to reach ,frank with a pole1 which he extends toward him4 ,the latter lets go the rock1 grasps the pole1 and is pulled ashore4 ,seneca ,howland is washed farther down the island and is caught by some rocks1 and1 though somewhat bruised1 manages to get ashore in safety4 ,this seems a long time as ,i tell it1 but it is quickly done4 ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodore4 #aee ,and now the three men are on an island1 with a swift1 dangerous river on either side and a fall below4 ,the ,emma ,dean is soon brought down1 and ,sumner1 starting above as far as possible1 pushes powell-canyons-#ajf4;jpg ,,wreck ,,at ,,disaster ,,falls4 out4 ,right skillfully he plies the oars1 and a few strokes set him on the island at the proper point4 ,then they all pull the boat up stream as far as they are able1 until they stand in water up to their necks4 ,one #aef #f ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 sits on a rock and holds the boat until the others are ready to pull1 then gives the boat a push1 clings to it with his hands1 and climbs in as they pull for mainland1 which they reach in safety4 ,we are as glad to shake hands with them as though they had been on a voyage around the world and wrecked on a distant coast4 ,down the river half a mile we find that the after cabin of the powell-canyons-#ajg4;jpg ,,metalliferous ,,veins ,,exposed ,,to ,,view4 wrecked boat1 with a part of the bottom1 ragged and splintered1 has floated against a rock and stranded4 ,there are valuable articles in the cabin2 but1 on examination1 we determine that life should not ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodore4 #aeg be risked to save them4 ,of course1 the cargo of rations1 instruments1 and clothing is gone4 ,we return to the boats and make camp for the night4 ,no sleep comes to me in all those dark hours4 ,the rations1 instruments1 and clothing have been divided among the boats1 anticipating such an accident as this2 and we started with duplicates of everything that was deemed necessary to success4 ,but1 in the distribution1 there was one exception to this precaution--the barometers were all placed in one boat1 and they are lost6 ,there is a possibility that they are in the cabin lodged against the rock1 for that is where they were kept4 ,but1 then1 how to reach them8 ,the river is rising4 ,will they be there to-morrow8 ,can ,i go out to ,salt ,lake ,city and obtain barometers from ,new ,york8 ,june #aj4--;,i have determined to get the barometers from the wreck1 if they are there4 ,after breakfast1 while the men make the portage1 ,i go down again for another examination1 ,there the cabin lies1 only carried #ej or #fj feet farther on4 ,carefully looking over the ground1 ,i am satisfied that it can be reached with safety1 and return to tell the men my conclusion4 ,sumner and ,dunn volunteer to take the little boat and make the attempt4 ,they start1 reach it1 and out come the barometers6 ,the boys set up a shout1 and ,i join them1 pleased that they should be as glad as myself to save the instruments4 ,when the boat lands on our side1 ,i find that the only things saved from the wreck were the barometers1 a package of thermometers1 and a three-gallon keg of whiskey4 ,the last is what the men were shouting about4 ,they had taken it aboard unknown to me1 and now ,i am glad they did take it1 for it will do them good1 as they are drenched every day by the melting snow which runs down from the summits of the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,we come back to our work at the portage and find that it is necessary to carry our rations over the rocks for nearly a mile and to let our boats down with lines1 except at a few points1 where they also must be carried4 ,between the river and the eastern wall of the canyon there is an immense talus of broken rocks4 ,these have tumbled down from the cliffs above and constitute a vast pile of huge angular fragments4 ,on these we build a path for a quarter of a mile to a small sand-beach covered with driftwood1 through which we clear a way for several #aeh #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 hundred yards1 then continue the trail over another pile of rocks nearly half a mile farther down1 to a little bay4 ,the greater part of the day is spent in this work4 ,then we carry our cargoes down to the beach and camp for the night4 ,while the men are building the camp fire1 we discover an iron bake-oven1 several tin plates1 a part of a boat1 and many other fragments1 which denote that this is the place where ,ashley's party was wrecked4 ,june #aa4--,this day is spent in carrying our rations down to the bay--no small task1 climbing over the rocks with sacks of flour and bacon4 ,we carry them by stages of about #ejj yards each1 and when night comes and the last sack is on the beach1 we are tired1 bruised1 and glad to sleep4 ,june #ab4--,to-day we take the boats down to the bay4 ,while at this work we discover three sacks of flour from the wrecked boat that have lodged in the rocks4 ,we carry them above high-water mark and leave them1 as our cargoes are already too heavy for the three remaining boats4 ,we also find two or three oars1 which we place with them4 ,as ,ashley and his party were wrecked here and as we have lost one of our boats at the same place1 we adopt the name ,disaster ,falls for the scene of so much peril and loss4 ,though some of his companions were drowned1 ,ashley and one other survived the wreck1 climbed the canyon wall1 and found their way across the ,wasatch ,mountains to ,salt ,lake ,city1 living chiefly on berries1 as they wandered through an unknown and difficult country4 ,when they arrived at ,salt ,lake they were almost destitute of clothing and nearly starved4 ,the ,mormon people gave them food and clothing and employed them to work on the foundation of the ,temple until they had earned sufficient to enable them to leave the country4 ,of their subsequent history1 ,i have no knowledge4 ,it is possible they returned to the scene of the disaster1 as a little creek entering the river below is known as ,ashley's ,creek1 and it is reported that he built a cabin and trapped on this river for one or two winters2 but this may have been before the disaster4 ,june #ac4--,rocks1 rapids1 and portages still4 ,we camp to-night at ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodoee4 #aei the foot of the left fall1 on a little patch of flood plain covered with a dense growth of box-elders1 stopping early in order to spread the clothing and rations to dry4 ,everything is wet and spoiling4 ,june #ad4--;,howland and ,i climb the wall on the west side of the canyon to an altitude of #b1jjj feet4 ,standing above and looking to the west1 we discover a large park1 five or six miles wide and twenty or thirty long4 ,the cliff we have climbed forms a wall between the canyon and the park1 for it is #hjj feet down the western side to the valley4 ,a creek comes winding down #a1bjj feet above the river1 and1 entering the intervening wall by a canyon1 plunges down more than #a1jjj feet1 by a broken cascade1 into the river below4 ,june #ae4--,to-day1 while we make another portage1 a peak1 standing on the east wall1 is climbed by two of the men and found to be #b1gjj feet above the river4 ,on the east side of the canyon a vast amphitheater has been cut1 with massive buttresses and deep1 dark alcoves in which powell-canyons-#ajh4;jpg ,,winnie',s ,,grotto1 ,a ,,side ,,canyon4 #afj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 grow beautiful mosses and delicate ferns1 while springs burst out from the farther recesses and wind in silver threads over floors of sand rock4 ,here we have three falls in close succession4 ,at the first the water is compressed into a very narrow channel against the right-hand cliff1 and falls #ae feet in #aj yards4 ,at the second we have a broad sheet of water tumbling down #bj feet over a group of rocks that thrust their dark heads through the foam4 ,the third is a broken fall1 or short1 abrupt rapid1 where the water makes a descent of more than #bj feet among huge1 fallen fragments of the cliff4 ,we name the group ,triplet ,falls4 ,we make a portage around the first2 past the second and the third we let down with lines4 ,during the afternoon1 ,dunn and ,howland having returned from their climb1 we run down three quarters of a mile on quiet waters and land at the head of another fall4 ,on examination1 we find that there is an abrupt plunge of a few feet and then the river tumbles for half a mile with a descent of a hundred feet1 in a channel beset with great numbers of huge boulders4 ,this stretch of the river is named ,hell's ,half-,mile4 ,the remaining portion of the day is occupied in making a trail among the rocks at the foot of the rapid4 ,june #af4--,our first work this morning is to carry our cargoes to the foot of the falls4 ,then we commence letting down the boats4 ,we take two of them down in safety1 but not without great difficulty2 for1 where such a vast body of water1 rolling down an inclined plane1 is broken into eddies and cross-currents by rocks projecting from the cliffs and piles of boulders in the channel1 it requires excessive labor and much care to prevent the boats from being dashed against the rocks or breaking away4 ,sometimes we are compelled to hold the boat against a rock above a chute until a second line1 attached to the stem1 is carried to some point below1 and when all is ready the first line is detached and the boat given to the current1 when she shoots down and the men below swing her into some eddy4 ,at such a place we are letting down the last boat1 and as she is set free a wave turns her broadside down the stream1 with the stem1 to which the line is attached1 from shore and a little up4 ,they haul on the line to bring the boat in1 but the power of the current1 striking obliquely against her1 shoots her out into the middle of the river4 ,the ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodore4 #afa men have their hands burned with the friction of the passing line2 the boat breaks away and speeds with great velocity down the stream4 ,the ,maid of the ,canyon is lost6 ,so it seems2 but she drifts powell-canyons-#aji4;jpg ,,eroded ,,towers ,,capped ,,with ,,large ,,blocks ,,of ,,sandstone4 some distance and swings into an eddy1 in which she spins about until we arrive with the small boat and rescue her4 ,soon we are on our way again1 and stop at the mouth of a little brook on the right for a late dinner4 ,this brook comes down from the distant #afb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 mountains in a deep side canyon4 ,we set out to explore it1 but are soon cut off from farther progress up the gorge by a high rock1 over which the brook glides in a smooth sheet4 ,the rock is not quite vertical1 and the water does not plunge over it in a fall4 ,then we climb up to the left for an hour1 and are #a1jjj feet above the river and #fjj above the brook4 ,just before us the canyon divides1 a little stream coming down on the right and another on the left1 and we can look away up either of these canyons1 through an ascending vista1 to cliffs and crags and towers a mile back and #b1jjj feet overhead4 ,to the right a dozen gleaming cascades are seen4 ,pines and firs stand on the rocks and aspens overhang the brooks4 ,the rocks below are red and brown1 set in deep shadows1 but above they are buff and vermilion and stand in the sunshine4 ,the light above1 made more brilliant by the bright-tinted rocks1 and the shadows below1 more gloomy powell-canyons-#aaj4;jpg ,,fire ,,in ,,camp4 by reason of the somber hues of the brown walls1 increase the apparent depths of the canyons1 and it seems a long way up to the world of sunshine and open sky1 and a long way down to the bottom of the ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodore4 #afc canyon glooms4 ,never before have ,i received such an impression of the vast heights of these canyon walls1 not even at the ,cliff of the ,harp1 where the very heavens seemed to rest on their summits4 ,we sit on some overhanging rocks and enjoy the scene for a time1 listening to the music of the falling waters away up the canyon4 ,we name this ,rippling ,brook4 ,late in the afternoon we make a short run to the mouth of another little creek1 coming down from the left into an alcove filled with luxuriant vegetation4 ,here camp is made1 with a group of cedars on one side and a dense mass of box-elders and dead willows on the other4 ,i go up to explore the alcove4 ,while away a whirlwind comes and scatters the fire among the dead willows and cedar-spray1 and soon there is a conflagration4 ,the men rush for the boats1 leaving all they cannot readily seize at the moment1 and even then they have their clothing burned and hair singed1 and ,bradley has his ears scorched4 ,the cook fills his arms with the mess-kit1 and jumping into a boat1 stumbles and falls1 and away go our cooking utensils into the river4 ,our plates are gone2 our spoons are gone2 our knives and forks are gone4 ,water catch 'em2 h-e-a-p catch 'em4 ,when on the boats1 the men are compelled to cut loose1 as the flames1 running out on the overhanging willows1 are scorching them4 ,loose on the stream1 they must go down1 for the water is too swift to make headway against it4 ,just below is a rapid1 filled with rocks4 ,on the shoot1 no channel explored1 no signal to guide them6 ,just at this juncture ,i chance to see them1 but have not yet discovered the fire1 and the strange movements of the men fill me with astonishment4 ,down the rocks ,i clamber1 and run to the bank4 ,when ,i arrive they have landed4 ,then we all go back to the late camp to see if anything left behind can be saved4 ,some of the clothing and bedding taken out of the boats is found1 also a few tin cups1 basins1 and a camp kettle2 and this is all the mess-kit we now have4 ,yet we do just as well as ever4 ,june #ag4--,we run down to the mouth of ,yampa ,river4 ,this has been a chapter of disasters and toils1 notwithstanding which the ,canyon of ,lodore was not devoid of scenic interest1 even beyond the power #afd powell-canyons-#aaa4;jpg ,,an ,,isolated ,,house ,,at ,,zu,i4 ,,the ,,canyon ,,of ,,lodoke4 #afe of pen to tell4 ,the roar of its waters was heard unceasingly from the hour we entered it until we landed here4 ,no quiet in all that time4 ,but its walls and cliffs1 its peaks and crags1 its amphitheaters and alcoves1 tell a story of beauty and grandeur that ,i hear yet--and shall hear4 ,the ,canyon of ,lodore is #bj #c_/d miles in length4 ,it starts abruptly at what we have called the ,gate of ,lodore1 with walls nearly #b1jjj feet high1 and they are never lower than this until we reach ,alcove ,brook1 about three miles above the foot4 ,they are very irregular1 standing in vertical or overhanging cliffs in places1 terraced in others1 or receding in steep slopes1 and are broken by many side gulches and canyons4 ,the highest point on the wall is at ,dunn's ,cliff1 near ,triplet ,falls1 where the rocks reach an altitude of #b1gjj feet1 but the peaks a little way back rise nearly #a1jjj feet higher4 ,yellow pines1 nut pines1 firs1 and cedars stand in extensive forests on the ,uinta ,mountains1 and1 clinging to the rocks and growing in the crevices1 come down the walls to the water's edge from ,flaming ,gorge to ,echo ,park4 ,the red sandstones are lichened4 over2 delicate mosses grow in the moist places1 and ferns festoon the walls4 powell-canyons-#aab4;jpg #aff powell-canyons-#aac4;jpg ,,an ,,oraibe ,,court4 #afg ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,uinta ,,river4 ,,the ,yampa enters the ,green from the east4 ,at a point opposite its mouth the ,green runs to the south1 at the foot of a rock about #gjj feet high and a mile long1 and then turns sharply around the rock to the right and runs back in a northerly course parallel to its former direction for nearly another mile1 thus having the opposite sides of a long1 narrow rock for its bank4 ,the tongue of rock so formed is a peninsular precipice with a mural escarpment along its whole course on the east1 but broken down at places on the west4 ,on the east side of the river1 opposite the rock and below the ,yampa1 there is a little park1 just large enough for a farm1 already fenced with high walls of gray homogeneous sandstone4 ,there are three river entrances to this park3 one down the ,yampa2 one below1 by coming up the ,green2 and another down the ,green4 ,there is also a land entrance down a lateral canyon4 ,elsewhere the park is inaccessible4 ,through this land entrance by the side canyon there is a trail made by ,indian hunters1 who come down here in certain seasons to kill mountain sheep4 ,great hollow domes are seen in the eastern side of the rock1 against which the ,green sweeps2 willows border the river2 clumps of box-elder are seen2 and a few cottonwoods stand at the lower end4 ,standing opposite the rock1 our words are repeated with startling clearness1 but in a soft1 mellow tone1 that transforms them into magical music4 ,scarcely can one believe it is the echo of his own voice4 ,in some places two or three echoes come back2 in other places they repeat themselves1 passing back and forth across the river between this rock and the eastern wall4 ,to hear these repeated echoes well1 we must shout4 ,some of the party aver that ten or twelve repetitions can be heard4 ,to #afh #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 me1 they seem rapidly to diminish and merge by multiplicity1 like telegraph poles on an outstretched plain4 ,i have observed the same phenomenon once before in the cliffs near ,long's ,peak1 and am pleased to meet with it again4 ,during the afternoon ,bradley and ,i climb some cliffs to the north4 ,mountain sheep are seen above us1 and they stand out on the rocks and eye us intently1 not seeming to move4 ,their color is much like that of the gray sandstone beneath them1 and1 immovable as they are1 they appear like carved forms4 ,now a fine ram beats the rock with his fore foot1 and1 wheeling around1 they all bound away together1 leaping over rocks and chasms and climbing walls where no man can follow1 and this with an ease and grace most wonderful4 ,at night we return to our camp under the box-elders by the river side4 ,here we are to spend two or three days1 making a series of astronomic observations for latitude and longitude4 ,june #ah4--,we have named the long peninsular rock on the other side ,echo ,rock4 ,desiring to climb it1 ,bradley and ,i take the little boat and pull up stream as far as possible1 for it cannot be climbed directly opposite4 ,we land on a talus of rocks at the upper end in order to reach a place where it seems practicable to make the ascent2 but we find we must go still farther up the river4 ,so we scramble along1 until we reach a place where the river sweeps against the wall4 ,here we find a shelf along which we can pass1 and now are ready for the climb4 ,we start up a gulch2 then pass to the left on a bench along the wall2 then up again over broken rocks2 then we reach more benches1 along which we walk1 until we find more broken rocks and crevices1 by which we climb2 still up1 until we have ascended #fjj or #hjj feet1 when we are met by a sheer precipice4 ,looking about1 we find a place where it seems possible to climb4 ,i go ahead2 ,bradley hands the barometer to me1 and follows4 ,so we proceed1 stage by stage1 until we are nearly to the summit4 ,here1 by making a spring1 ,i gain a foothold in a little crevice1 and grasp an angle of the rock overhead4 ,i find ,i can get up no farther and cannot step back1 for ,i dare not let go with my hand and cannot reach foothold below without4 ,i call to ,bradley for help4 ,he finds a way by which he can get to the top of the ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #afi rock over my head1 but cannot reach me4 ,then he looks around for some stick or limb of a tree1 but finds none4 ,then he suggests that he would better help me with the barometer case1 but ,i fear ,i cannot hold on to it4 ,the moment is critical4 ,standing on my toes1 my muscles begin to tremble4 ,it is sixty or eighty feet to the foot of the precipice4 ,if ,i lose my hold ,i shall fall to the bottom and then perhaps roll over the bench and tumble still farther down the cliff4 ,at this instant it occurs to ,bradley to take off his drawers1 which he does1 and swings them down to me4 ,i hug close to the rock1 let go with my hand1 seize the dangling legs1 and with his assistance am enabled to gain the top4 ,then we walk out on the peninsular rock1 make the necessary observations for determining its altitude above camp1 and return1 finding an easy way down4 ,june #ai4--,to-day1 ,howland1 ,bradley1 and ,i take the ,emma ,dean and start up the ,yampa ,river4 ,the stream is much swollen1 the current swift1 and we are able to make but slow progress against it4 ,the canyon in this part of the course of the ,yampa is cut through light gray sandstone4 ,the river is very winding1 and the swifter water is usually powell-canyons-#aad4;jpg ,,the ,,rescue4 #agj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 found on the outside of the curve1 sweeping against vertical cliffs often a thousand feet high4 ,in the center of these curves1 in many places1 the rock above overhangs the river4 ,on the opposite side the walls are broken1 craggy1 and sloping1 and occasionally side canyons enter4 ,when we have rowed until we are quite tired we stop and take advantage of one of these broken places to climb out of the canyon4 ,when above1 we can look up the ,yampa for a distance of several miles4 ,from the summit of the immediate walls of the canyon the rocks rise gently back for a distance of a mile or two1 having the appearance of a valley with an irregular and rounded sandstone floor and in the powell-canyons-#aae4;jpg ,,echo ,,park4 center a deep gorge1 which is the canyon4 ,the rim of this valley on the north is from #b1ejj to #c1jjj feet above the river2 on the south it is not so high4 ,a number of peaks stand on this northern rim1 the highest of which has received the name ,mount ,dawes4 ,late in the afternoon we descend to our boat and return to camp in ,echo ,park1 gliding down in twenty minutes on the rapid river1 a distance of four or five miles1 which was made up stream only by several hours' hard rowing in the morning4 ,june #bj4--,this morning two of the men take me up the ,yampa for a short distance1 and ,i go out to climb4 ,having reached the top of ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #aga the canyon1 ,i walk over long stretches of naked sandstone1 crossing gulches now and then1 and by noon reach the summit of ,mount ,dawes4 ,from this point ,i can look away to the north and see in the dim distance the ,sweetwater and ,wind ,river mountains1 more than #ajj miles away4 ,to the northwest the ,wasatch ,mountains are in view1 and peaks of the ,uinta4 ,to the east ,i can see the western slopes of the ,rocky ,mountains1 powell-canyons-#aaf4;jpg ,,fragment ,,of ,,wall1 ,,zu,i4 more than #aej miles distant4 ,the air is singularly clear to-day2 mountains and buttes stand in sharp outline1 valleys stretch out in perspective1 and ,i can look down into the deep canyon gorges and see gleaming waters4 ,descending1 ,i cross to a ridge near the brink of the ,canyon of ,lodore1 the highest point of which is nearly as high as the last mentioned mountain4 ,late in the afternoon ,i stand on this elevated #agb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 point and discover a monument that has evidently been built by human hands4 ,a few plants are growing in the joints between the rocks1 and all are lichened over to a greater or less extent1 giving evidence powell-canyons-#aag4;jpg #agb ,,kivas ,,of ,,shumopavi4 that the pile was built a long time ago4 ,this line of peaks1 the eastern extension of the ,uinta ,mountains1 has received the name of ,sierra ,escalante1 in honor of a ,spanish priest who traveled in this region of country nearly a century ago4 ,perchance the reverend father built this monument4 ,now ,i return to the river and discharge my gun1 as a signal for the boat to come and take me down to camp4 ,while we have been in the park the men have succeeded in catching a number of fish1 and we have an abundant supply4 ,this is a delightful addition to our menu4 ,june #ba4-- ,we float around the long rock and enter another canyon4 ,the walls are high and vertical1 the canyon is narrow1 and the river ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #agc fills the whole space below1 so that there is no landing-place at the foot of the cliff4 ,the ,green is greatly increased by the ,yampa1 and we now have a much larger river4 ,all this volume of water1 confined1 as it is1 in a narrow channel and rushing with great velocity1 is set eddying and spinning in whirlpools by projecting rocks and short curves1 and the waters waltz their way through the canyon1 making their own rippling1 rushing1 roaring music4 ,the canyon is much narrower than any we have seen4 ,we manage our boats with difficulty4 ,they spin about from side to side and we know not where we are going1 and find it impossible to keep them headed down the stream4 ,at first this causes us great alarm1 but we soon find there is little danger1 and that there is a general movement or progression down the river1 to which this whirling is but an adjunct--that it is the merry mood powell-canyons-#aah4;jpg ,,general ,,vtew ,,of ,,awatubi4 of the river to dance through this deep1 dark gorge1 and right gaily do we join in the sport4 ,but soon our revel is interrupted by a cataract2 its roaring command is heeded by all our power at the oars1 and we pull against the whirling current4 ,the ,emma ,dean is brought up against a cliff #agd #d ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 about #ej feet above the brink of the fall4 ,by vigorously plying the oars on the side opposite the wall1 as if to pull up stream1 we can hold her against the rock4 ,the boats behind are signaled to land where they can4 ,the ,maid of the ,canyon is pulled to the left wall1 and1 by constant rowing1 they can hold her also4 ,the ,sister is run into an alcove on the right1 where an eddy is in a dance1 and in this she joins4 ,now my little boat is held against the wall only by the utmost exertion1 and it is impossible to make headway against the current4 ,on examination1 ,i find a horizontal crevice in the rock1 about #aj feet above the water and a boat's length below us2 so we let her down to that point4 ,one of the men clambers into the crevice1 into which he can just crawl2 we toss him the line1 which he makes fast in the rocks1 and now our boat is tied up4 ,then ,i follow into the crevice and we crawl along up stream a distance of #ej feet or more1 and find a broken place where we can climb about #ej feet higher4 ,here we stand on a shelf that passes along down stream to a point above the falls1 where it is broken down1 and a pile of rocks1 over which we can descend to the river1 is lying against the foot of the cliff4 ,it has been mentioned that one of the boats is on the other side4 ,i signal for the men to pull her up alongside of the wall1 but it cannot be done2 then to cross4 ,this they do1 gaining the wall on our side just above where the ,emma ,dean is tied4 ,the third boat is out of sight1 whirling in the eddy of a recess4 ,looking about1 ,i find another horizontal crevice1 along which ,i crawl to a point just over the water where this boat is lying1 and1 calling loud and long1 ,i finally succeed in making the crew understand that ,i want them to bring the boat down1 hugging the wall4 ,this they accomplish by taking advantage of every crevice and knob on the face of the cliff1 so that we have the three boats together at a point a few yards above the falls4 ,now1 by passing a line up on the shelf1 the boats can be let down to the broken rocks below4 ,this we do1 and1 making a short portage1 our troubles here are over4 ,below the falls the canyon is wider1 and there is more or less space between the river and the walls2 but the stream1 though wide1 is rapid1 and rolls at a fearful rate among the rocks4 ,we proceed with great caution1 and run the large boats wholly by signal4 ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,eiver4 #age ,at night we camp at the mouth of a small creek1 which affords us a good supper of trout4 ,in camp to-night we discuss the propriety powell-canyons-#aai4;jpg ,,swallow ,,cave4 of several different names for this canyon4 ,at the falls encountered at noon its characteristics change suddenly4 ,above1 it is very narrow1 and the walls are almost vertical2 below1 the canyon is much wider #agf #f ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 and more flaring1 and high up on the sides crags1 pinnacles1 and towers are seen4 ,a number of wild and narrow side canyons enter1 and the walls are much broken4 ,after many suggestions our choice rests between two names1 ,whirlpool ,canyon and ,craggy ,canyon1 neither of which is strictly appropriate for both parts of it2 so we leave the discussion at this point1 with the understanding that it is best1 before finally deciding on a name1 to wait until we see what the character of the canyon is below4 ,june #bb4--,still making short portages and letting down with lines4 ,while we are waiting for dinner to-day1 ,i climb a point that gives me a good view of the river for two or three miles below1 and ,i think we can make a long run4 ,after dinner we start2 the large boats are to follow in fifteen minutes and look out for the signal to land4 ,into the middle of the stream we row1 and down the rapid river we glide1 only making strokes enough with the oars to guide the boat4 ,what a headlong ride it is6 shooting past rocks and islands4 ,i am soon filled with exhilaration only experienced before in riding a fleet horse over the outstretched prairie4 ,one1 two1 three1 four miles we go1 rearing and plunging with the waves1 until we wheel to the right into a beautiful park and land on an island1 where we go into camp4 ,an hour or two before sunset ,i cross to the mainland and climb a point of rocks where ,i can overlook the park and its surroundings4 ,on the east it is bounded by a high mountain ridge4 ,a semicircle of naked hills bounds it on the north1 west1 and south4 ,the broad1 deep river meanders through the park1 interrupted by many wooded islands2 so ,i name it ,island ,park1 and decide to call the canyon above1 ,whirlpool ,canyon4 ,june #bc4--,we remain in camp to-day to repair our boats1 which have had hard knocks and are leaking4 ,two of the men go out with the barometer to climb the cliff at the foot of ,whirlpool ,canyon and measure the walls2 another goes on the mountain to hunt2 and ,bradley and ,i spend the day among the rocks1 studying an interesting geologic fold and collecting fossils4 ,late in the afternoon the hunter returns and brings with him a fine1 fat deer2 so we give his name to the mountain--,mount ,hawkins4 ,just before night we move camp to the lower end of the park1 floating down the river about four miles4 ,,prom ,,echo ,,paek ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,kivek4 #agg ,june #bd4--;,bradley and ,i start early to climb the mountain ridge to the east1 and find its summit to be nearly #c1jjj feet above camp4 ,it has required some labor to scale it2 but on its top1 what a view6 ,there is a long spur running out from the ,uinta ,mountains toward the south1 and the river runs lengthwise through it4 ,coming down ,lodore powell-canyons-#abj4;jpg ,,view ,,of ,,siiumopavi4 and ,whirlpool canyons1 we cut through the southern slope of the ,uinta ,mountains2 and the lower end of this latter canyon runs into the spur1 but1 instead of splitting it the whole length1 the river wheels to the right at the foot of ,whirlpool ,canyon in a great curve to the northwest through ,island ,park4 ,at the lower end of the park1 the river #agh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#aba4;jpg ,,ruins4 turns again to the southeast and cuts into the mountain to its center and then makes a detour to the southwest1 splitting the mountain ridge for a distance of six miles nearly to its foot1 and then turns out of it to the left4 ,all this we can see where we stand on the summit of ,mount ,hawkins1 and so we name the gorge below1 ,split ,mountain ,canyon4 ,we are standing #c1jjj feet above the waters1 which are troubled with billows and are white with foam4 ,the walls are set with crags and peaks and buttressed towers and overhanging domes4 ,turning to the right1 the park is below us1 its island groves reflected by the deep1 quiet waters4 ,rich meadows stretch out on either hand to the verge of a sloping plain that comes down from the distant mountains4 ,these plains are of almost naked rock1 in strange contrast to the meadows1--blue and lilac colored rocks1 buff and pink1 vermilion and brown1 ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #agi and all these colors clear and bright4 ,a dozen little creeks1 dry the greater part of the year1 run down through the half circle of exposed formations1 radiating from the island center to the rim of the basin4 ,each creek has its system of side streams and each side stream has its system of laterals1 and again these are divided2 so that this outstretched slope of rock is elaborately embossed4 ,beds of different-colored formations run in parallel bands on either side4 ,the perspective1 modified by the undulations1 gives the bands a waved appearance1 and the high colors gleam in the midday sun with the luster of satin4 ,we are tempted to call this ,rainbow ,park4 ,away beyond these beds are the ,uinta and ,wasatch mountains with their pine forests and snow fields and naked peaks4 ,now we turn to the right and look up ,whirlpool ,canyon1 a deep gorge with a river at the bottom--a gloomy chasm1 where mad waves roar2 but at this distance and altitude the river is but a rippling brook1 and the chasm a narrow cleft4 ,the top of the mountain on which we stand is a broad1 grassy table1 and a herd powell-canyons-#abb4;jpg ,,ruins4 #ahj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 of deer are feeding in the distance4 ,walking over to the southeast1 we look down into the valley of ,white ,river1 and beyond that see the far-distant ,rocky ,mountains1 in mellow1 perspective haze1 through which snow fields shine4 ,june #be4--,this morning we enter ,split ,mountain ,canyon1 sailing in through a broad1 flaring1 brilliant gateway4 ,we run two or three rapids1 after they have been carefully examined4 ,then we have a series of six or eight1 over which we are compelled to pass by letting the boats down with lines4 ,this occupies the entire day1 and we camp at night at the mouth of a great cave4 ,the cave is at the foot of one of these rapids1 and the waves dash in nearly to its end4 ,we can pass along a little shelf at the side until we reach the back part4 ,swallows have built their nests in the ceiling1 and they wheel in1 chattering and scolding at our intrusion2 but their clamor is almost drowned by the noise of the waters4 ,looking out of the cave1 we can see1 far up the river1 a line of crags standing sentinel on either side1 and ,mount ,hawkins in the distance4 ,june #bf4--,the forenoon is spent in getting our large boats over the rapids4 ,this afternoon we find three falls in close succession4 ,we carry our rations over the rocks and let our boats shoot over the falls1 checking and bringing them to land with lines in the eddies below4 ,at three o'clock we are all aboard again4 ,down the river we are carried by the swift waters at great speed1 sheering around a rock now and then with a timely stroke or two of the oars4 ,at one point the river turns from left to right1 in a direction at right angles to the canyon1 in a long chute and strikes the right1 where its waters are heaped up in great billows that tumble back in breakers4 ,we glide into the chute before we see the danger1 and it is too late to stop4 ,two or three hard strokes are given on the right and we pause for an instant1 expecting to be dashed against the rock4 ,but the bow of the boat leaps high on a great wave1 the rebounding waters hurl us back1 and the peril is past4 ,the next moment the other boats are hurriedly signaled to land on the left4 ,accomplishing this1 the men walk along the shore1 holding the boats near the bank1 and let them drift around4 ,starting again1 we soon debouch into a beautiful valley1 glide down its length for #aj miles1 and camp under a grand ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #aha old cottonwood4 ,this is evidently a frequent resort for ,indians4 ,tent poles are lying about1 and the dead embers of late camp fires are seen4 ,on the plains to the left1 antelope are feeding4 ,now and then a wolf is seen1 and after dark they make the air resound with their howling4 ,june #bg4--,now our way is along a gently flowing river1 beset with powell-canyons-#abc4;jpg ,,indian ,,lodge ,,in ,,the ,,uinta ,,valley4 many islands2 groves are seen on either side1 and natural meadows1 where herds of antelope are feeding4 ,here and there we have views of the distant mountains on the right4 ,during the afternoon we make a long detour to the west and return again to a point not more than half a mile from where we started at noon1 and here we camp for the night under a high bluff4 ,june #bh4--,to-day the scenery on either side of the river is much #ahb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the same as that of yesterday1 except that two or three lakes are discovered1 lying in the valley to the west4 ,after dinner we run but a few minutes when we discover the mouth of the ,uinta1 a river coming in from the west4 ,up the valley of this stream about #dj miles the reservation of the ,uinta ,indians is situated4 ,we propose to go there and see if we can replenish our mess-kit1 and perhaps send letters to friends4 ,we also desire to establish an astronomic station here2 and hence this will be our stopping place for several days4 ,some years ago ,captain ,berthoud surveyed a stage route from ,salt ,lake ,city to ,denver1 and this is the place where he crossed the ,green ,river4 ,his party was encamped here for some time1 constructing a ferry boat and opening a road4 ,a little above the mouth of the ,uinta1 on the west side of the ,green1 there is a lake of several thousand acres4 ,we carry our boat across the divide between this and the river1 have a row on its quiet waters1 and succeed in shooting several ducks4 ,june #bi4--;,a mile and three quarters from here is the junction of the ,white ,river with the ,green4 ,the ,white has its source far to the east in the ,rocky ,mountains4 ,this morning ,i cross the ,green and go over into the valley of the ,white and extend my walk several miles along its winding way1 until at last ,i come in sight of some strangely carved rocks1 named by ,general ,hughes1 in his journal1 ,goblin ,city4 ,our last winter's camp was situated a hundred miles above the point reached to-day4 ,the course of the river1 for much of the distance1 is through canyons2 but at some places valleys are found4 ,excepting these little valleys1 the region is one of great desolation3 arid1 almost treeless1 with bluffs1 hills1 ledges of rock1 and drifting sands4 ,along the course of the ,green1 however1 from the foot of ,split ,mountain ,canyon to a point some distance below the mouth of the ,uinta1 there are many groves of cottonwood1 natural meadows1 and rich lands4 ,this arable belt extends some distance up the ,white ,river on the east and the ,uinta on the west1 and the time must soon come when settlers will penetrate this country and make homes4 ,june #cj4--,we have a row up the ,uinta to-day1 but are not able to make much headway against the swift current1 and hence conclude we must walk all the way to the agency4 ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #ahc ,july #a4--,two days have been employed in obtaining the local time1 taking observations for latitude and longitude1 and making excursions into the adjacent country4 ,this morning1 with two of the men1 ,i start for the agency4 ,it is a toilsome walk1 #bj miles of the distance being across a sand desert4 ,occasionally we have to wade the river1 crossing it back and forth4 ,toward evening we cross several beautiful streams1 powell-canyons-#abd4;jpg ,,warrior ,,and ,,bride4 tributaries of the ,uinta1 and pass through pine groves and meadows1 arriving at the reservation just at dusk4 ,captain ,dodds1 the agent1 is away1 having gone to ,salt ,lake ,city1 but his assistants receive us very kindly4 ,it is rather pleasant to see a house once more1 and some evidences of civilization1 even if it is on an ,indian reservation several days' ride from the nearest home of the white man4 ,july #b4--;,i go this morning to visit ,tsauwiat4 ,this old chief is #ahd #d ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 but the wreck of a man1 and no longer has influence4 ,looking at him one can scarcely realize that he is a man4 ,his skin is shrunken1 wrinkled1 and dry1 and seems to cover no more than a form of bones4 ,he is said to be more than #ajj years old4 ,i talk a little with him1 but his conversation is incoherent1 though he seems to take pride in showing me some medals that must have been given him many years ago4 ,he has a pipe which he says he has used a long time4 ,i offer to exchange with him1 and he seems to be glad to accept2 so ,i add another to my collection of pipes4 ,his wife1 ,the ,bishop1 as she is called1 is a very garrulous old woman2 she exerts a great influence1 and is much revered4 ,she is the only ,indian woman ,i have known to occupy a place in the council ring4 ,she seems very much younger than her husband1 and1 though wrinkled and ugly1 is still vigorous4 ,she has much to say to me concerning the condition of the people1 and seems very anxious that they should learn to cultivate the soil1 own farms1 and live like white men4 ,after talking a couple of hours with these old people1 ,i go to see the farms4 ,they are situated in a very beautiful district1 where many fine streams of water meander across alluvial plains and meadows4 ,these creeks have a considerable fall1 and it is easy to take their waters out above and overflow the lands with them4 ,it will be remembered that irrigation is necessary in this dry climate to successful farming4 ,quite a number of ,indians have each a patch of ground of two or three acres1 on which they are raising wheat1 potatoes1 turnips1 pumpkins1 melons1 and other vegetables4 ,most of the crops are looking well1 and it is rather surprising with what pride they show us that they are able to cultivate crops like white men4 ,they are still occupying lodges1 and refuse to build houses1 assigning as a reason that when any one dies in a lodge it is always abandoned1 and very often burned with all the effects of the deceased2 and when houses have been built for them the houses have been treated in the same way4 ,with their unclean habits1 a fixed residence would doubtless be no pleasant place4 ,this beautiful valley has been the home of a people of a higher grade of civilization than the present ,utes4 ,evidences of this are quite abundant2 on our way here yesterday we discovered fragments ,,from ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #ahe of pottery in many places along the trail2 and1 wandering about the little farms to-day1 ,i find the foundations of ancient houses1 and mealing-stones that were not used by nomadic people1 as they are too heavy to be transported by such tribes1 and are deeply worn4 ,the powell-canyons-#abe4;jpg ,,our ,,interpreter ,,and ,,his ,,family4 ,indians1 seeing that ,i am interested in these matters1 take pains to show me several other places where these evidences remain1 and tell me that they know nothing about the people who formerly dwelt here4 ,they further tell me that up in the canyon the rocks are covered with pictures4 ,july #e4--,the last two days have been spent in studying the language #ahf powell-canyons-#abf4;jpg ,,house ,,building ,,at ,,oraibi4 ,,prom ,,echo ,,park ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,uinta ,,river4 #ahg of the ,indians and in making collections of articles illustrating the state of arts among them4 ,frank ,goodman informs me this morning that he has concluded not to go on with the party1 saying that he has seen danger enough4 ,it will be remembered that he was one of the crew on the ,no ,name when she was wrecked4 ,as our boats are rather heavily loaded1 ,i am content that he should leave1 although he has been a faithful man4 ,we start early on our return to the boats1 taking horses with us from the reservation1 and two ,indians1 who are to bring the animals back4 ,whirlpool ,canyon is #ad #a_/d miles in length1 the walls varying from #a1hjj to #b1djj feet in height4 ,the course of the river through ,island ,park is #i miles4 ,split ,mountain ,canyon is #h miles long4 ,the highest crags on its walls reach an altitude above the river of from #b1ejj to #b1gjj feet4 ,in these canyons cedars only are found on the walls4 ,the distance by river from the foot of ,split ,mountain ,canyon to the mouth of the ,uinta is #fg miles4 ,the valley through which it runs is the home of many antelope1 and we have adopted for it the ,indian name ,won'sits ,yuav--,antelope ,valley4 powell-canyons-#abg4;jpg #ahh powell-canyons-#abh4;jpg ,,general ,,view ,,of ,,ojo ,,caliente4 #ahi ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,from ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,uinta ,,river ,,to ,,the ,,junction ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,and ,,green4 ,,july #f4--;,an early start this morning4 ,a short distance below the mouth of the ,uinta we come to the head of a long island4 ,last winter a man named ,johnson1 a hunter and ,indian trader1 visited us at our camp in ,white ,river ,valley4 ,this man has an ,indian wife1 and1 having no fixed home1 usually travels with one of the ,ute bands4 ,he informed me that it was his intention to plant some corn1 potatoes1 and other vegetables on this island in the spring1 and1 knowing that we would pass it1 invited us to stop and help ourselves1 even if he should not be there2 so we land and go out on the island4 ,looking about1 we soon discover his garden1 but it is in a sad condition1 having received no care since it was planted4 ,it is yet too early in the season for corn1 but ,hall suggests that potato tops are good greens1 and1 anxious for some change from our salt-meat fare1 we gather a quantity and take them aboard4 ,at noon we stop and cook our greens for dinner2 but soon one after another of the party is taken sick2 nausea first1 and then severe vomiting1 and we tumble around under the trees1 groaning with pain4 ,i feel a little alarmed1 lest our poisoning be severe4 ,emetics are administered to those who are willing to take them1 and about the middle of the afternoon we are all rid of the pain4 ,jack ,sumner records in his diary that potato tops are not good greens on the #fth day of ,july4 ,this evening we enter another canyon1 almost imperceptibly1 as the walls rise very gently4 ,july #g4--,we find quiet water to-day1 the river sweeping in great and beautiful curves1 the canyon walls steadily increasing in altitude4 ,the escarpments formed by the cut edges of the rock are often vertical1 sometimes terraced1 and in some places the treads of the terraces #aij ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 are sloping4 ,in these quiet curves vast amphitheaters are formed1 now in vertical rocks1 now in steps4 ,the salient point of rock within the curve is usually broken down in a steep slope1 and we stop occasionally to climb up at such a place1 where on looking down we can see the river sweeping the foot of the opposite cliff in a great1 easy curve1 with a perpendicular or terraced wall rising from the water's edge many hundreds of feet4 ,one of these we find very symmetrical and name it ,sumner's ,amphitheater4 ,the cliffs are rarely broken by the entrance of side canyons1 and we sweep around curve after curve with almost continuous walls for several miles4 ,late in the afternoon we find the river very much rougher and come upon rapids1 not dangerous1 but still demanding close attention4 ,we camp at night on the right bank1 having made #bf miles4 ,july #h4--,this morning ,bradley and ,i go out to climb1 and gain an altitude of more than #b1jjj feet above the river1 but still do not reach the summit of the wall4 powell-canyons-#abi4;jpg ,,sumner',s ,,amphitheater4 ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #aia ,after dinner we pass through a region of the wildest desolation4 ,the canyon is very tortuous1 the river very rapid1 and many lateral canyons enter on either side4 ,these usually have their branches1 so that the region is cut into a wilderness of gray and brown cliffs4 ,in several places these lateral canyons are separated from one another only by narrow walls1 often hundreds of feet high1--so narrow in places that where softer rocks are found below they have crumbled away and left holes in the wall1 forming passages from one canyon into another4 ,these we often call natural bridges2 but they were never intended to span streams4 ,they would better1 perhaps1 be called side doors between canyon chambers4 ,piles of broken rock lie against these walls2 crags and tower-shaped peaks are seen everywhere1 and away above them1 long lines of broken cliffs2 and above and beyond the cliffs are pine forests1 of which we obtain occasional glimpses as we look up through a vista of rocks4 ,the walls are almost without vegetation2 a few dwarf bushes are seen here and there clinging to the rocks1 and cedars grow from the crevices--not like the cedars of a land refreshed with rains1 great cones bedecked with spray1 but ugly clumps1 like war clubs beset with spines4 ,we are minded to call this the ,canyon of ,desolation4 ,the wind annoys us much to-day4 ,the water1 rough by reason of the rapids1 is made more so by head gales4 ,wherever a great face of rocks has a southern exposure1 the rarefied air rises and the wind rushes in below1 either up or down the canyon1 or both1 causing local currents4 ,just at sunset we run a bad rapid and camp at its foot4 ,july #i4--,our run to-day is through a canyon with ragged1 broken walls1 many lateral gulches or canyons entering on either side4 ,the river is rough1 and occasionally it becomes necessary to use lines in passing rocky places4 ,during the afternoon we come to a rather open canyon valley1 stretching up toward the west1 its farther end lost in the mountains4 ,from a point to which we climb we obtain a good view of its course1 until its angular walls are lost in the vista4 ,july #aj4--,sumner1 who is a fine mechanic1 is learning to take observations for time with the sextant4 ,to-day he remains in camp to practice4 ,howland and ,i determine to climb out1 and start up a lateral canyon1 taking a barometer with us for the purpose of measuring the thickness #aib ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 of the strata over which we pass4 ,the readings of the barometer below are recorded every half hour and our observations must be simultaneous4 ,where the beds which we desire to measure are very thick1 we must climb with the utmost speed to reach their summits in time2 where the beds are thinner1 we must wait for the moment to arrive2 and so1 by hard and easy stages1 we make our way to the top of the canyon wall and reach the plateau above about two o' clock4 ,howland1 who has his gun with him1 sees deer feeding a mile or two back and goes off for a hunt4 ,i go to a peak which seems to be the highest one in this region1 about half a mile distant1 and climb1 for-the purpose of tracing the topography of the adjacent country4 ,from this point a fine view is obtained4 ,a long plateau stretches across the river in an easterly and westerly direction1 the summit covered by pine forests1 with intervening elevated valleys and gulches4 ,the plateau itself is cut in two by the canyon4 ,other side canyons head away back from the river and run down into the ,green4 ,besides these1 deep and abrupt canyons are seen to head back on the plateau and run north toward the ,uinta and ,white rivers4 ,still other canyons head in the valleys and run toward the south4 ,the elevation of the plateau being about #h1jjj feet above the level of the sea1 it is in a region of moisture1 as is well attested by the forests and grassy valleys4 ,the plateau seems to rise gradually to the west1 until it merges into the ,wasatch ,mountains4 ,on these high table-lands elk and deer abound2 and they are favorite hunting grounds for the ,ute ,indians4 #aic ,a little before sunset ,howland and ,i meet again at the head of the side canyon1 and down we start4 ,it is late1 and we must make great haste or be caught by the darkness2 so we go1 running where we can1 leaping over the ledges1 letting each other down on the loose rocks1 as long as we can see4 ,when darkness comes we are still some distance from camp1 and a long1 slow1 anxious descent is made toward the gleaming camp fire4 ,after supper1 observations for latitude are taken1 and only two or three hours for sleep remain before daylight4 ,july #aa4--;,a short distance below camp we run a rapid1 and in doing so break an oar and then lose another1 both belonging to the ,emma ,dean4 ,now the pioneer boat has but two oars4 ,we see nothing from #aid powell-canyons-#acj4;jpg ,,chimneys ,,and ,,roofs1 ,,zuni4 powell-canyons-#aca4;jpg ,a ,,tusayan ,,interior4 ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #aie which oars can be made1 so we conclude to run on to some point where it seems possible to climb out to the forests on the plateau1 and there we will procure suitable timber from which to make new ones4 ,we soon approach another rapid4 ,standing on deck1 ,i think it can be run1 and on we go4 ,coming nearer1 ,i see that at the foot it has a short turn to the left1 where the waters pile up against the cliff4 ,here we try to land1 but quickly discover that1 being in swift water above the fall1 we cannot reach shore1 crippled as we are by the loss of two oars2 so the bow of the boat is turned down stream4 ,we shoot by a big rock2 a reflex wave rolls over our little boat and fills her4 ,i see that the place is dangerous and quickly signal to the other boats to land where they can4 ,this is scarcely completed when another wave rolls our boat over and ,i am thrown some distance into the water4 ,i soon find that swimming is very easy and ,i cannot sink4 ,it is only necessary to ply strokes sufficient to keep my head out of the water1 though now and then1 when a breaker rolls over me1 ,i close my mouth and am carried through it4 ,the boat is drifting ahead of me #bj or #cj feet1 and when the great waves have passed ,i overtake her and find ,sumner and ,dunn clinging to her4 ,as soon as we reach quiet water we all swim to one side and turn her over4 ,in doing this1 ,dunn loses his hold and goes under2 when he comes up he is caught by ,sumner and pulled to the boat4 ,in the meantime we have drifted down stream some distance and see another rapid below4 ,how bad it may be we cannot tell2 so we swim toward shore1 pulling our boat with us1 with all the vigor possible1 but are carried down much faster than distance toward shore is diminished4 ,at last we reach a huge pile of driftwood4 ,our rolls of blankets1 two guns1 and a barometer were in the open compartment of the boat and1 when it went over1 these were thrown out4 ,the guns and barometer are lost1 but ,i succeeded in catching one of the rolls of blankets as it drifted down1 when we were swimming to shore2 the other two are lost1 and sometimes hereafter we may sleep cold4 ,a huge fire is built on the bank and our clothing spread to dry1 and then from the drift logs we select one from which we think oars can be made1 and the remainder of the day is spent in sawing them out4 ,july #ab4--,this morning the new oars are finished and we start once more4 ,we pass several bad rapids1 making a short portage at one1 and #aif #f ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 before noon we come to a long1 bad fall1 where the channel is filled with rocks on the left which turn the waters to the right1 where they pass under an overhanging rock4 ,on examination we determine to run it1 keeping as close to the left-hand rocks as safety will permit1 in order to avoid the overhanging cliff4 ,the little boat runs over all right2 another follows1 but the men are not able to keep her near enough to the left bank and she is carried by a swift chute into great waves to the right1 where she is tossed about and ,bradley is knocked over the side2 his foot catching under the seat1 he is dragged along in the water with his head down2 making great exertion1 he seizes the gunwale with his left hand and can lift his head above water now and then4 ,to us who are below1 it seems impossible to keep the boat from going under the overhanging cliff2 but ,powell1 for the moment heedless of ,bradley's mishap1 pulls with all his power for half a dozen strokes1 when the danger is past2 then he seizes ,bradley and pulls him in4 ,the men in the boat above1 seeing this1 land1 and she is let down by lines4 ,just here we emerge from the ,canyon of ,desolation1 as we have named it1 into a more open country1 which extends for a distance of nearly a mile1 when we enter another canyon cut through gray sandstone4 ,about three o'clock in the afternoon we meet with a new difficulty4 ,the river fills the entire channel2 the walls are vertical on either side from the water's edge1 and a bad rapid is beset with rocks4 ,we come to the head of it and land on a rock in the stream4 ,the little boat is let down to another rock below1 the men of the larger boat holding to the line2 the second boat is let down in the same way1 and the line of the third boat is brought with them4 ,now the third boat pushes out from the upper rock1 and1 as we have her line below1 we pull in and catch her as she is sweeping by at the foot of the rock on which we stand4 ,again the first boat is let down stream the full length of her line and the second boat is passed down1 by the first to the extent of her line1 which is held by the men in the first boat2 so she is two lines' length from where she started4 ,then the third boat is let down past the second1 and still down1 nearly to the length of her line1 so that she is fast to the second boat and swinging down three lines' lengths1 with the other two boats intervening4 ,held in this way1 the men ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #aig are able to pull her into a cove in the left wall1 where she is made fast4 ,but this leaves a man on the rock above1 holding to the line of the little boat4 ,when all is ready1 he springs from the rock1 clinging to the line with one hand and swimming with the other1 and we pull him in as he goes by4 ,as the two boats1 thus loosened1 drift down1 the men powell-canyons-#acb4;jpg ,,lighthouse ,,rock1 ,,canyon ,,of ,,desolation4 in the cove pull us all in as we come opposite2 then we pass around to a point of rock below the cove1 close to the wall1 land1 make a short portage over the worst places in the rapid1 and start again4 ,at night we camp on a sand beach4 ,the wind blows a hurricane2 the drifting sand almost blinds us2 and nowhere can we find shelter4 ,the wind continues to blow all night1 the sand sifting through our blankets #aih #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 and piling over us until we are covered as in a snowdrift4 ,we are glad when morning comes4 ,july #ac4--,this morning we have an exhilarating ride4 ,the river is swift1 and there are many smooth rapids4 ,i stand on deck1 keeping careful watch ahead1 and we glide along1 mile after mile1 plying strokes1 now on the right and then on the left1 just sufficient to guide our boats past the rocks into smooth water4 ,at noon we emerge from ,gray ,canyon1 as we have named it1 and camp for dinner under a cotton-wood tree standing on the left bank4 ,extensive sand plains extend back from the immediate river valley as far as we can see on either side4 ,these naked1 drifting sands gleam brilliantly in the midday sun of ,july4 ,the reflected heat from the glaring surface produces a curious motion of the atmosphere2 little currents are generated and the whole seems to be trembling and moving about in many directions1 or1 failing to see that the movement is in the atmosphere1 it gives the impression of an unstable land4 ,plains and hills and cliffs and distant mountains seem to be floating vaguely about in a trembling1 wave-rocked sea1 and patches of landscape seem to float away and be lost1 and then to reappear4 ,just opposite1 there are buttes1 outliers of cliffs to the left4 ,below1 they are composed of shales and marls of light blue and slate colors2 above1 the rocks are buff and gray1 and then brown4 ,the buttes are buttressed below1 where the azure rocks are seen1 and terraced above through the gray and brown beds4 ,a long line of cliffs or rock escarpments separates the table-lands through which ,gray ,canyon is cut1 from the lower plain4 ,the eye can trace these azure beds and cliffs on either side of the river1 in a long line extending across its course1 until they fade away in the perspective4 ,these cliffs are many miles in length and hundreds of feet high2 and all these buttes--great mountain-masses of rock--are dancing and fading away and reappearing1 softly moving about1--or so they seem to the eye as seen through the shifting atmosphere4 ,this afternoon our way is through a valley with cottonwood groves on either side4 ,the river is deep1 broad1 and quiet4 ,about two hours after noon camp we discover an ,indian crossing1 where a number of rafts1 rudely constructed of logs and bound together by withes1 are ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #aii floating against the bank4 ,on landing1 we see evidences that a party of ,indians have crossed within a very few days4 ,this is the place where the lamented ,gunnison crossed1 in the year #ahec1 when making an exploration for a railroad route to the ,pacific coast4 ,an hour later we run a long rapid and stop at its foot to examine some interesting rocks1 deposited by mineral springs that at one time must have existed here1 but which are no longer flowing4 ,july #ad4-- ,this morning we pass some curious black bluffs on the right1 then two or three short canyons1 and then we discover the mouth of the ,san ,rafael1 a stream which comes down from the distant mountains in the west4 ,here we stop for an hour or two and take a short walk up the valley1 and find it is a frequent resort for ,indians4 ,arrowheads are scattered about1 many of them very beautiful2 flint chips are strewn over the ground in great profusion1 and the trails are well worn4 ,starting after dinner1 we pass some beautiful buttes on the left1 many powell-canyons-#acc4;jpg ,,gunnison ,,butte4 ,,gray ,,canyon 7#b1gjj ,,feet ,,high74 #bjj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 of which are very symmetrical4 ,they are chiefly composed of gypsum1 of many hues1 from light gray to slate color2 then pink1 purple1 and brown beds4 ,now we enter another canyon4 ,gradually the walls rise higher and higher as we proceed1 and the summit of the canyon is formed of the same beds of orange-colored sandstone4 ,back from the brink the hollows of the plateau are filled with sands disintegrated from these orange beds4 ,they are of a rich cream color1 shading into maroon1 everywhere destitute of vegetation1 and drifted into long1 wave-like ridges4 ,the course of the river is tortuous1 and it nearly doubles upon itself many times4 ,the water is quiet1 and constant rowing is necessary to make much headway4 ,sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the river and the wall1 on one side or the other4 ,where these long1 gentle curves are found1 the river washes the very foot of the outer wall4 ,a long peninsula of willow-bordered meadow projects within the curve1 and the talus at the foot of the cliff is usually covered with dwarf oaks4 ,the orange-colored sandstone is homogeneous in structure1 and the walls are usually vertical1 though not very high4 ,where the river sweeps around a curve under a cliff1 a vast hollow dome may be seen1 with many caves and deep alcoves1 which are greatly admired by the members of the party as we go by4 ,we camp at night on the left bank4 ,july #ae4---,our camp is in a great bend of the canyon4 ,the curve is to the west and we are on the east side of the river4 ,just opposite1 a little stream comes down through a narrow side canyon4 ,we cross and go up to explore it4 ,at its mouth another lateral canyon enters1 in the angle between the former and the main canyon above4 ,still another enters in the angle between the canyon below and the side canyon first mentioned2 so that three side canyons enter at the same point4 ,these canyons are very tortuous1 almost closed in from view1 and1 seen from the opposite side of the river1 they appear like three alcoves4 ,we name this ,trin-,alcove ,bend4 ,going up the little stream in the central cove1 we pass between high walls of sandstone1 and wind about in glens4 ,springs gush from the rocks at the foot of the walls2 narrow passages in the rocks are threaded1 caves are entered1 and many side canyons are observed4 #bja powell-canyons-#acd4;jpg ,,ruins ,,of ,,ketchipauan4 #bjb powell-canyons-#ace4;jpg ,,bird',s-,,eye ,,view ,,of ,,the ,,land ,,of ,,the ,,standing ,,rocks4 ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #bjc ,the right cove is a narrow1 winding gorge1 with overhanging walls1 almost shutting out the light4 ,the left is an amphitheater1 turning spirally up1 with overhanging shelves4 ,a series of basins filled with water are seen at different altitudes as we pass up2 huge rocks are piled below on the right1 and overhead there is an arched ceiling4 ,after exploring these alcoves1 we recross the river and climb the rounded rocks on the point of the bend4 ,in every direction1 as far as we are able to see1 naked rocks appear4 ,buttes are scattered on the landscape1 here rounded into cones1 there buttressed1 columned1 and carved in quaint shapes1 with deep alcoves and sunken recesses4 ,all about us are basins1 excavated in the soft sandstone2 and these have been filled by the late rains4 ,over the rounded rocks and water pockets we look off on a fine ,stretch of river1 and beyond are naked rocks and beautiful buttes leading the eye to the ,azure ,cliffs1 and beyond these and above them the ,brown ,cliffs1 and still beyond1 mountain peaks2 and clouds piled over all4 ,on we go1 after dinner1 with quiet water1 still compelled to row in order to make fair progress4 ,the canyon is yet very tortuous4 ,about six miles below noon camp we go around a great bend to the right1 five miles in length1 and come back to a point within a quarter of a mile of where we started4 ,then we sweep around another great bend to the left1 making a circuit of nine miles1 and come back to a point within #fjj yards of the beginning of the bend4 ,in the two circuits we describe almost the figure #h4 ,the men call it a bowknot of river2 so we name it ,bowknot ,bend4 ,the line of the figure is #ad miles in length4 ,there is an exquisite charm in our ride to-day down this beautiful canyon4 ,it gradually grows deeper with every mile of travel2 the walls are symmetrically curved and grandly arched1 of a beautiful color1 and reflected in the quiet waters in many places so as almost to deceive the eye and suggest to the beholder the thought that he is looking into profound depths4 ,we are all in fine spirits and feel very gay1 and the badinage of the men is echoed from wall to wall4 ,now and then we whistle or shout or discharge a pistol1 to listen to the reverberations among the cliffs4 ,at night we camp on the south side of the great ,bowknot1 and as #bjd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 we eat supper1 which is spread on the beach1 we name this ,labyrinth ,canyon4 ,july #af4--,still we go down on our winding way4 ,tower cliffs are passed2 then the river widens out for several miles1 and meadows are seen on either side between the river and the walls4 ,we name this expansion of the river ,tower ,park4 ,at two o'clock we emerge from ,labyrinth ,canyon and go into camp4 ,july #ag4--,the line which separates ,labyrinth ,canyon from the one below is but a line1 and at once1 this morning1 we enter another canyon4 ,the water fills the entire channel1 so that nowhere is there room to land4 ,the walls are low1 but vertical1 and as we proceed they gradually increase in altitude4 ,running a couple of miles1 the river changes its course many degrees toward the east4 ,just here a little stream comes in on the right and the wall is broken down2 so we land and go out to take powell-canyons-#acf4;jpg ,,the ,,butte ,,of ,,the ,,ceoss4 a view of the surrounding country4 ,we are now down among the buttes1 and in a region the surface of which is naked1 solid rock--a beautiful red sandstone1 forming a smooth1 undulating pavement4 ,the ,indians call this the ,toom'pin ,tuweap'1 or ,rock ,land1 and sometimes the ,toom'pin wunear#a ,tuweap'1 or ,land of ,standing ,rock4 ,off to the south we see a butte in the form of a fallen cross4 ,it is several miles away1 but it presents no inconspicuous figure on the #bje powell-canyons-#acg4;jpg ,,land ,,of ,,the ,,standing ,,rocks4 #bjf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 landscape and must be many hundreds of feet high1 probably more than #b1jjj4 ,we note its position on our map and name it ,the ,butte of the ,cross4 ,we continue our journey4 ,in many places the walls1 which rise from the water's edge1 are overhanging on either side4 ,the stream is still quiet1 and we glide along through a strange1 weird1 grand region4 ,the landscape everywhere1 away from the river1 is of rock--cliffs of rock1 tables of rock1 plateaus of rock1 terraces of rock1 crags of rock--ten thousand strangely carved forms2 rocks everywhere1 and no vegetation1 no soil1 no sand4 ,in long1 gentle curves the river winds about these rocks4 ,when thinking of these rocks one must not conceive of piles of boulders or heaps of fragments1 but of a whole land of naked rock1 with giant forms carved on it3 cathedral-shaped buttes1 towering hundreds or thousands of feet1 cliffs that cannot be scaled1 and canyon walls that shrink the river into insignificance1 with vast1 hollow domes and tall pinnacles and shafts set on the verge overhead2 and all highly colored--buff1 gray1 red1 brown1 and chocolate--never lichened1 never moss-covered1 but bare1 and often polished4 ,we pass a place where two bends of the river come together1 an intervening rock having been worn away and a new channel formed across4 ,the old channel ran in a great circle around to the right1 by what was once a circular peninsula1 then an island2 then the water left the old channel entirely and passed through the cut1 and the old bed of the river is dry4 ,so the great circular rock stands by itself1 with precipitous walls all about it1 and we find but one place where it can be scaled4 ,looking from its summit1 a long stretch of river is seen1 sweeping close to the overhanging cliffs on the right1 but having a little meadow between it and the wall on the left4 ,the curve is very gentle and regular4 ,we name this ,bonita ,bend4 ,and just here we climb out once more1 to take another bearing on ,the ,butte of the ,cross4 ,reaching an eminence from which we can overlook the landscape1 we are surprised to find that our butte1 with its wonderful form1 is indeed two buttes1 one so standing in front of the other that from our last point of view it gave the appearance of a cross4 ,a few miles below ,bonita ,bend we go out again a mile or two #bjg powell-canyons-#ach4;jpg ,,moenkopi4 #bjh powell-canyons-#aci4;jpg ,,oraibi ,,houses4 ,,from ,,the ,,uinta ,,to ,,the ,,grand4 #bji among the rocks1 toward the ,orange ,cliffs1 passing over terraces paved with jasper4 ,the cliffs are not far away and we soon reach them1 and wander in some deep1 painted alcoves which attracted our attention from the river2 then we return to our boats4 ,late in the afternoon the water becomes swift and our boats make great speed44 ,an hour of this rapid running brings us to the junction of the ,grand and ,green1 the foot of ,stillwater ,canyon1 as we have named it4 ,these streams-unite in solemn depths1 more than #a1bjj feet below the general surface of the country4 ,the walls of the lower end of ,stillwater ,canyon are very beautifully curved1 as the river sweeps in its meandering course4 ,the lower end of the canyon through which the ,grand comes down is also regular1 but much more direct1 and we look up this stream and out into the country beyond and obtain glimpses of snow-clad peaks1 the summits of a group of mountains known as the ,sierra ,la ,sal4 ,down the ,colorado the canyon walls are much broken4 ,we row around into the ,grand and camp on its northwest bank2 and here we propose to stay several days1 for the purpose of determining the latitude and longitude and the altitude of the walls4 ,much of the night is spent in making observations with the sextant4 ,the distance from the mouth of the ,uinta to the head of the ,canyon of ,desolation is #bj #c_/d miles4 ,the ,canyon of ,desolation is #ig miles long2 ,gray ,canyon1 #cf miles4 ,the course of the river through ,gunnison ,valley is #bg #a_/d miles2 ,labyrinth ,canyon1 #fb #a_/b miles4 ,in the ,canyon of ,desolation the highest rocks immediately over the river are about #b1djj feet4 ,this is at ,log ,cabin ,cliff4 ,the highest part of the terrace is near the brink of the ,brown ,cliffs4 ,climbing the immediate walls of the canyon and passing back to the canyon terrace and climbing that1 we find the altitude above the river to be #c1cjj feet4 ,the lower end of ,gray ,canyon is about #b1jjj feet2 the lower end of ,labyrinth ,canyon1 #a1cjj feet4 ,stillwater ,canyon is #db #c_/d miles long2 the highest walls1 #a1cjj feet4 #baj powell-canyons-#adj4;jpg ,,the ,,heart ,,of ,,marble ,,canyon4 #baa ,,chapter ,x4 ,,from ,,the ,,junction ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,and ,,green ,,to ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 ,,july #ah4--,the day is spent in obtaining the time and spreading our rations1 which we find are badly injured4 ,the flour has been wet and dried so many times that it is all musty and full of hard lumps4 ,we make a sieve of mosquito netting and run our flour through1 it1 losing more than #bjj pounds by the process4 ,our losses1 by the wrecking of the ,no ,name1 and by various mishaps since1 together with the amount thrown away to-day1 leave us little more than two months' supplies1 and to make them last thus long we must be fortunate enough to lose no more4 ,we drag our boats on shore and turn them over to recalk and pitch them1 and ,sumner is engaged in repairing barometers4 ,while we are here for a day or two1 resting1 we propose to put everything in the best shape for a vigorous campaign4 ,july #ai4--;,bradley and ,i start this morning to climb the left wall below the junction4 ,the way we have selected is up a gulch4 ,climbing for an hour over and among the rocks1 we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater and our way cut off4 ,we clamber around to the left for half an hour1 until we find that we cannot go up in that direction4 ,then we try the rocks around to the right and discover a narrow shelf nearly half a mile long4 ,in some places this is so wide that we pass along with ease2 in others it is so narrow and sloping that we are compelled to lie down and crawl4 ,we can look over the edge of the shelf1 down #hjj feet1 and see the river rolling and plunging among the rocks4 ,looking up #ejj feet to the brink of the cliff1 it seems to blend with the sky4 ,we continue along until we come to a point where the wall is again broken down4 ,up we climb4 ,on the right there is a narrow1 mural point #bab #b ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 of rocks1 extending toward the river1 #bjj or #cjj feet high and #fjj or #hjj feet long4 ,we come back to where this sets in and find it cut off from the main wall by a great crevice4 ,into this we pass2 and now a long1 narrow rock is between us and the river4 ,the rock itself is split longitudinally and transversely2 and the rains on the surface above have run down through the crevices and gathered into channels below and then run off into the river4 ,the crevices are usually narrow above and1 by erosion of the streams1 wider below1 forming a network of caves1 each cave having a narrow1 winding skylight up through the rocks4 ,we wander among these corridors for an hour or two1 but find no place where the rocks are broken down so that we can climb up4 ,at last we determine to attempt a passage by a crevice1 and select one which we think is wide enough to admit of the passage of our bodies and yet narrow enough to climb out by pressing our hands and feet against the walls4 ,so we climb as men would out of a well4 ,bradley climbs first2 ,i hand him the barometer1 then climb over his head and he hands me the barometer4 ,so we pass each other alternately until we emerge from the fissure1 out on the summit of the rock4 ,and what a world of grandeur is spread before us6 ,below is the canyon through which the ,colorado runs4 ,we can trace its course for miles1 and at points catch glimpses of the river4 ,from the northwest comes the ,green in a narrow winding gorge4 ,from the northeast comes the ,grand1 through a canyon that seems bottomless from where we stand4 ,away to the west are lines of cliffs and ledges of rock--not such ledges as the reader may have seen where the quarryman splits his blocks1 but ledges from which the gods might quarry mountains that1 rolled out on the plain below1 would stand a lofty range2 and not such cliffs as the reader may have seen where the swallow builds its nest1 but cliffs where the soaring eagle is lost to view ere he reaches the summit4 ,between us and the distant cliffs are the strangely carved and pinnacled rocks of the ,toom'pin wunear' ,tuweap'4 ,on the summit of the opposite wall of the canyon are rock forms that we do not understand4 ,away to the east a group of eruptive mountains are seen--the ,sierra ,la ,sal1 which we first saw two days ago through the canyon of the ,grand4 ,their slopes are covered with pines1 and deep gulches are flanked with great crags1 and snow fields are seen near the summits4 ,so the moun- ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bac tains are in uniform1--green1 gray1 and silver4 ,wherever we look there is but a wilderness of rocks1--deep gorges where the rivers are lost below cliffs and towers and pinnacles1 and ten thousand strangely carved forms in every direction1 and beyond them mountains blending with the clouds4 ,now we return to camp4 ,while eating supper we very naturally speak of better fare1 as musty bread and spoiled bacon are not palatable4 ,soon ,i see ,hawkins down by the boat1 taking up the sextant--rather a strange proceeding for him--and ,i question him concerning it4 ,he replies that he is trying to find the latitude and longitude of the nearest pie4 ,july #bj4--,this morning ,captain ,powell and ,i go out to climb the west wall of the canyon1 for the purpose of examining the strange rocks seen yesterday from the other side4 ,two hours bring us to the top1 at a point between the ,green and ,colorado overlooking the junction of the rivers4 ,a long neck of rock extends toward the mouth of the ,grand4 ,out on this we walk1 crossing a great number of deep crevices4 ,usually the smooth rock slopes down to the fissure on either side4 ,sometimes powell-canyons-#ada4;jpg ,a ,,lateral ,,canyon4 #bad ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 it is an interesting question to us whether the slope is not so steep that we cannot stand on it4 ,sometimes1 starting down1 we are compelled to go on1 and when we measure the crevice with our eye from above we are not always sure that it is not too wide for a jump4 ,probably the slopes would not be difficult if there was not a fissure at the lower end2 nor would the fissures cause fear if they were but a few feet deep4 ,it is curious how a little obstacle becomes a great obstruction when a misstep would land a man in the bottom of a deep chasm4 ,climbing the face of a cliff1 a man will without hesitancy walk along a step or shelf but a few inches wide if the landing is but ten feet below1 but if the foot of the cliff is a thousand feet down he will prefer to crawl along the shelf4 ,at last our way is cut off by a fissure so deep and wide that we cannot pass it4 ,then we turn and walk back into the country1 over the smooth1 naked sandstone1 without vegetation1 except that here and there dwarf cedars and pin pines have found a footing in the huge cracks4 ,there are great basins in the rock1 holding water1--some but a few gallons1 others hundreds of barrels4 ,the day is spent in walking about through these strange scenes4 ,a narrow gulch is cut into the wall of the main canyon4 ,follow this up and the climb is rapid1 as if going up a mountain side1 for the gulch heads but a few hundred or a few thousand yards from the wall4 ,but this gulch has its side gulches1 and as the summit is approached a group of radiating canyons is found4 ,the spaces drained by these little canyons are terraced1 and are1 to a greater or less extent1 of the form of amphitheaters1 though some are oblong and some rather irregular4 ,usually the spaces drained by any two of these little side canyons are separated by a narrow wall1 #ajj1 #bjj1 or #cjj feet high1 and often but a few feet in thickness4 ,sometimes the wall is broken into a line of pyramids above and still remains a wall below4 ,there are a number of these gulches which break the wall of the main canyon of the ,green1 each one having its system of side canyons and amphitheaters1 inclosed by walls or lines of pinnacles4 ,the course of the ,green at this point is approximately at right angles to that of the ,colorado1 and on the brink of the latter canyon we find the same system of terraced and walled glens4 ,the walls and pinnacles and towers are of sandstone1 homogeneous in structure but not in color1 as they show broad bands of red1 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bae buff1 and gray4 ,this painting of the rocks1 dividing them into sections1 increases their apparent height4 ,in some places these terraced and walled glens along the ,colorado have coalesced with those along the ,green2 that is1 the intervening walls are broken down4 ,it is very rarely that a loose rock is seen4 ,the sand is washed off1 so that the walls1 terraces1 and slopes of the glens are all of smooth sandstone4 ,in the walls themselves curious caves and channels have been carved4 ,in some places there are little stairways up the walls2 in others1 the walls present what are known as royal arches2 and so we wander through glens and among pinnacles and climb the walls from early morn until late in the afternoon4 ,july #ba4--,we start this morning on the ,colorado4 ,the river is rough1 and bad rapids in close succession are found4 ,two very hard portages are made during the forenoon4 ,after dinner1 in running a rapid1 the ,emma ,dean is swamped and we are thrown into the river2 we cling to the boat1 and in the first quiet water below she is righted and bailed out2 but three oars are lost in this mishap4 ,the larger boats land above the dangerous place1 and we make a portage1 which occupies powell-canyons-#adb4;jpg ,a ,,tusayan ,,mealing ,,trough4 all the afternoon4 ,we camp at night on the rocks on the left bank1 and can scarcely find room to lie down4 ,july #bb4--,this morning we continue our journey1 though short of oars4 ,there is no timber growing on the walls within our reach and no driftwood along the banks1 so we are compelled to go on until something suitable can be found4 ,a mile and three quarters below1 we find #baf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 a huge pile of driftwood1 among which are some cottonwood logs4 ,from these we select one which we think the best1 and the men are set at work sawing oars4 ,our boats are leaking again1 from the strains received in the bad rapids yesterday1 so after dinner they are turned over and some of the men calk them4 ,captain ,powell and ,i go out to climb the wall to the east1 for we can see dwarf pines above1 and it is our purpose to collect the resin which oozes from them1 to use in pitching our boats4 ,we take a barometer with us and find that the walls are becoming higher1 for now they register an altitude above the river of nearly #a1ejj feet4 ,july #bc4--,on starting1 we come at once to difficult rapids and falls1 that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed1 and we decide to name this ,cataract ,canyon4 ,from morning until noon the course of the river is to the west2 the scenery is grand1 with rapids1 and falls below1 and walls above1 beset with crags and pinnacles4 ,just at noon we wheel again to the south and go into camp for dinner4 ,while the cook is preparing it1 ,bradley1 ,captain ,powell1 and ,i go up into a side canyon that comes in at this point4 ,we enter through a very narrow passage1 having to wade along the course of a little stream until a cascade interrupts our progress4 ,then we climb to the right for a hundred feet until we reach a little shelf1 along which we pass1 walking with great care1 for it is narrow2 thus we pass around the fall4 ,here the gorge widens into a spacious1 sky-roofed chamber4 ,in the farther end is a beautiful grove of cottonwoods1 and between us and the cotton-woods the little stream widens out into three clear lakelets with bottoms of smooth rock4 ,beyond the cottonwoods the brook tumbles in a series of white1 shining cascades from heights that seem immeasurable4 ,turning around1 we can look through the cleft through which we came and see the river with towering walls beyond4 ,what a chamber for a resting-place is this6 hewn from the solid rock1 the heavens for a ceiling1 cascade fountains within1 a grove in the conservatory1 clear lakelets for a refreshing bath1 and an outlook through the doorway on a raging river1 with cliffs and mountains beyond4 ,our way after dinner is through a gorge1 grand beyond description4 ,the walls are nearly vertical1 the river broad and swift1 but free from ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bag rocks and falls4 ,from the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it is #a1fjj to #a1hjj feet4 ,at this great depth the river rolls in solemn majesty4 ,the cliffs are reflected from the more quiet river1 and we seem to be in the depths of the earth1 and yet we can look down into waters that reflect a bottomless abyss4 ,early in the afternoon we arrive powell-canyons-#adc4;jpg ,,the ,,heart ,,of ,,cataract ,,canyon4 at the head of more rapids and falls1 but1 wearied with past work1 we determine to rest1 so go into camp1 and the afternoon and evening are spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully navigating the river below4 ,the barometric records are examined to see what descent we have made since we left the mouth of the ,grand1 and what descent since we left the ,pacific ,railroad1 and what fall there yet #bah ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 must be to the river ere we reach the end of the great canyons4 ,the conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be about this3 that there are great descents yet to be made1 but if they are distributed in rapids and short falls1 as they have been heretofore1 we shall be able to overcome them2 but may be we shall come to a fall in these canyons which we cannot pass1 where the walls rise from the water's edge1 so that we cannot land1 and where the water is so swift that we cannot return4 ,such places have been found1 except that the falls were not so great but that we could run them with safety4 ,how will it be in the future t ,so they speculate over the serious probabilities in jesting mood4 ,july #bd4--,we examine the rapids below4 ,large rocks have fallen from the walls--great1 angular blocks1 which have rolled down the talus and are strewn along the channel4 ,we are compelled to make three portages in succession1 the distance being less than three fourths of a mile1 with a fall of #ge feet4 ,among these rocks1 in chutes1 whirlpools1 and great waves1 with rushing breakers and foam1 the water finds its way1 still tumbling down4 ,we stop for the night only three fourths of a mile below the last camp4 ,a very hard day's work has been done1 and at evening ,i sit on a rock by the edge of the river and look at the water and listen to its roar4 ,hours ago deep shadows settled into the canyon1 as the sun passed behind the cliffs4 ,now1 doubtless1 the sun has gone down1 for we can see no glint of light on the crags above4 ,darkness is coming on2 but the waves are rolling with crests of foam so white they seem almost to give a light of their own4 ,near by1 a chute of water strikes the foot of a great block of limestone #ej feet high1 and the waters pile up against it and roll back4 ,where there are sunken rocks the water heaps up in mounds1 or even in cones4 ,at a point where rocks come very near the surface1 the water forms a chute above1 strikes1 and is shot up #aj or #ae feet1 and piles back in gentle curves1 as in a fountain2 and on the river tumbles and rolls4 ,july #be4--,still more rapids and falls to-day4 ,in one1 the ,emma ,dean is caught in a whirlpool and set spinning about1 and it is with great difficulty we are able to get out of it with only the loss of an oar4 ,at noon another is made2 and on we go1 running some of the rapids1 letting down with lines past others1 and making two short portages4 ,we camp on the right bank1 hungry and tired4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bai ,july #bf4--,we run a short distance this morning and go into camp to make oars and repair boats and barometers4 ,the walls of the canyon have been steadily increasing in altitude to this point1 and now they are more than #b1jjj feet high4 ,in many places they are vertical from the water's edge2 in others there is a talus between the river and the foot of the cliff2 and they are often broken down by side canyons4 ,it is probable that the river is nearly as low now as it is ever found4 ,high-water mark can be observed #dj1 #ej1 #fj1 or #ajj feet above its present stage4 ,sometimes logs and driftwood are seen wedged into the crevices over-head1 where floods have carried them4 ,about ten o'clock1 ,powell1 ,bradley1 ,howland1 ,hall1 and ,i start powell-canyons-#add4;jpg ,,water ,,basin ,,in ,,gypsum ,,canyon4 #bbj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 up a side canyon to the east4 ,we soon come to pools of water2 then to a brook1 which is lost in the sands below2 and passing up the brook1 we see that the canyon narrows1 the walls close in and are often overhanging1 and at last we find ourselves in a vast amphitheater1 with a pool of deep1 clear1 cold water on the bottom4 ,at first our way seems cut off2 but we soon discover a little shelf1 along which we climb1 and1 passing beyond the pool1 walk a hundred yards or more1 turn to the right1 and find ourselves in another dome-shaped amphitheater4 ,there is a winding cleft at the top1 reaching out to the country above1 nearly #b1jjj feet overhead4 ,the rounded1 basin-shaped bottom is filled with water to the foot of the walls4 ,there is no shelf by which we can pass around the foot4 ,if we swim across we meet with a face of rock hundreds of feet high1 over which a little rill glides1 and it will be impossible to climb4 ,so we can go no farther up this canyon4 ,then we turn back and examine the walls on either side carefully1 to discover1 if possible1 some way of climbing out4 ,in this search every man takes his own course1 and we are scattered4 ,i almost abandon the idea of getting out and am engaged in searching for fossils1 when ,i discover1 on the north1 a broken place lip which it may be possible to climb4 ,the way for a distance is up a slide of rocks2 then up an irregular amphitheater1 on points that form steps and give handhold2 and then ,i reach a little shelf1 along which ,i walk1 and discover a vertical fissure parallel to the face of the wall and reaching to a higher shelf4 ,this fissure is narrow and ,i try to climb up to the bench1 which is about #dj feet overhead4 ,i have a barometer on my back1 which rather impedes my climbing4 ,the walls of the fissure are of smooth limestone1 offering neither foothold nor handhold4 ,so ,i support myself by pressing my back against one wall and my knees against the other1 and in this way lift my body1 in a shuffling manner1 a few inches at a time1 until ,i have made perhaps #be feet of the distance1 when the crevice widens a little and ,i cannot press my knees against the rock in front with sufficient power to give me support in lifting my body2 so ,i try to go back4 ,this ,i cannot do without falling4 ,so ,i struggle along sidewise farther into the crevice1 where it narrows4 ,but by this time my muscles are exhausted1 and ,i cannot climb longer2 so ,i move still a little farther into the crevice1 where it is so narrow and wedging that ,i can lie in it1 and there ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bba ,i rest4 ,five or ten minutes of this relief1 and up once more ,i go1 and reach the bench above4 ,on this ,i can walk for a quarter of a mile1 till ,i come to a place where the wall is again broken down1 so ,i can climb up still farther2 and in an hour ,i reach the summit4 ,i hang up my barometer to give it a few minutes' time to settle1 and occupy myself in collecting resin from the pin pines1 which are found in great abundance4 ,one of the principal objects in making this climb was to get this resin for the purpose of smearing our boats2 but ,i have with me no means of carrying it down4 ,the day is very hot and my coat was left in camp1 so ,i have no linings to tear out4 ,then it occurs to me to cut off the sleeve of my shirt and tie it up at one end1 and in this little sack ,i collect about a gallon of pitch4 ,after taking observations for altitude1 ,i wander back on the rock for an hour or two1 when suddenly ,i notice that a storm is coming from the south4 ,i seek a shelter in the rocks2 but when the storm powell-canyons-#ade4;jpg ,,the ,,water ,,pocket ,,canyon4 #bbb powell-canyons-#adf4;jpg ,,plan ,,of ,,the ,,ruin ,,of ,,kin-,,tiel1 ,,near ,,tusayan4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bbc bursts1 it comes down as a flood from the heavens1--not with gentle drops at first1 slowly increasing in quantity1 but as if suddenly poured out4 ,i am thoroughly drenched and almost washed away4 ,it lasts not more than half an hour1 when the clouds sweep by to the north and ,i have sunshine again4 ,in the meantime ,i have discovered a better way of getting down1 and start for camp1 making the greatest haste possible4 ,on reaching the bottom of the side canyon1 ,i find a thousand streams rolling down the cliffs on every side1 carrying with them red sand2 and these all unite in the canyon below in one great stream of red mud4 ,traveling as fast as ,i can run1 ,i soon reach the foot of the stream1 for the rain did not reach the lower end of the canyon and the water is running down a dry bed of sand2 and although it conies in waves several feet high and #ae or #bj feet in width1 the sands soak it up and it is lost4 ,but wave follows wave and rolls along and is swallowed up2 and still the floods come on from above4 ,i find that ,i can travel faster than the stream2 so ,i hasten to camp and tell the men there is a river coming down the canyon4 ,we carry our camp equipage hastily from the bank to where we think it will be above the water4 ,then we stand by and see the river roll on to join the ,colorado4 ,great quantities of gypsum are found at the bottom of the gorge2 so we name it ,gypsum ,canyon4 ,july #bg4--,we have more rapids and falls until noon2 then we come to a narrow place in the canyon1 with vertical walls for several hundred feet1 above which are steep steps and sloping rocks back to the summits4 ,the river is very narrow1 and we make our way with great care and much anxiety1 hugging the wall on the left and carefully examining the way before us4 ,late in the afternoon we pass to the left around a sharp point1 which is somewhat broken down near the foot1 and discover a flock of mountain sheep on the rocks more than a hundred feet above us4 ,we land quickly in a cove out of sight1 and away go all the hunters with their guns1 for the sheep have not discovered us4 ,soon we hear firing1 and those of us who have remained in the boats climb up to see what success the hunters have had4 ,one sheep has been killed1 and two of the men are still pursuing them4 ,in a few minutes we hear firing again1 and the next moment down come the flock clattering over the rocks within #bj #bbd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 yards of us4 ,one of the hunters seizes his gun and brings a second sheep down1 and the next minute the remainder of the flock is lost behind the rocks4 ,we all give chase2 but it is impossible to follow their tracks over the naked rock1 and we see them no more4 ,where they went out of this rock-walled canyon is a mystery1 for we can see no way of escape4 ,doubtless1 if we could spare the time for the search1 we should find a gulch up which they ran4 ,we lash our prizes to the deck of one of the boats and go on for a short distance2 but fresh meat is too tempting for us1 and we stop early to have a feast4 ,and a feast it is6 ,two fine young sheep6 ,we care not for bread or beans or dried apples to-night2 coffee and mutton are all we ask4 ,july #bh4--,we make two portages this morning1 one of them very long4 ,during the afternoon we run a chute more than half a mile in length1 narrow and rapid4 ,this chute has a floor of marble2 the rocks dip in the direction in which we are going1 and the fall of the stream conforms to the inclination of the beds2 so we float on water that is gliding down an inclined plane4 ,at the foot of the chute the river turns sharply to the right and the water rolls up against a rock which from above seems to stand directly athwart its course4 ,as we approach it we pull with all our power to the right1 but it seems impossible to avoid being carried headlong against the cliff2 we are carried up high on the waves--but not against the rock1 for the rebounding water strikes us and we are beaten back and pass on with safety1 except that we get a good drenching4 #bbe ,after this the walls suddenly close in1 so that the canyon is narrower than we have ever known it4 ,the water fills it from wall to wall1 giving us no landing-place at the foot of the cliff2 the river is very swift and the canyon very tortuous1 so that we can see but a few hundred yards ahead2 the walls tower over us1 often overhanging so as almost to shut out the light4 ,i stand on deck1 watching with intense anxiety1 lest this may lead us into some danger2 but we glide along1 with no obstruction1 no falls1 no rocks1 and in a mile and a half emerge from the narrow gorge into a more open and broken portion of the canyon4 ,now that it is past1 it seems a very simple thing indeed to run through such a place1 but the fear of what might be ahead made a deep impression on us4 #bbe powell-canyons-#adg4;jpg ,,pescado ,,houses4 #bbf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,at three o'clock we arrive at the foot of ,cataract ,canyon4 ,here a long canyon valley comes down from the east1 and the river turns sharply to the west in a continuation of the line of the lateral valley4 ,in the bend on the right vast numbers of crags and pinnacles and tower-shaped rocks are seen4 ,we call it ,mille ,crag ,bend4 ,and now we wheel into another canyon1 on swift water unobstructed by rocks4 ,this new canyon is very narrow and very straight1 with walls vertical below and terraced above4 ,where we enter it the brink of powell-canyons-#adh4;jpg ,,repairing ,,boats ,,at ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,dirty ,,devil ,,river4 the cliff is #a1cjj feet above the water1 but the rocks dip to the west1 and as the course of the canyon is in that direction the walls are seen slowly to decrease in altitude4 ,floating down this narrow channel and looking ,,prom ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bbg out through the canyon crevice away in the distance1 the river is seen to turn again to the left1 and beyond this point1 away many miles1 a great mountain is seen4 ,still floating down1 we see other mountains1 now on the right1 now on the left1 until a great mountain range is unfolded to view4 ,we name this ,narrow ,canyon1 and it terminates at the bend of the river below4 ,as we go down to this point we discover the mouth of a stream which enters from the right4 ,into this our little boat is turned4 ,the water is exceedingly muddy and has an unpleasant odor4 ,one of the men in the boat following1 seeing what we have done1 shouts to ',dunn and asks whether it is a trout stream4 ,dunn replies1 much disgusted1 that it is a dirty devil1 and by this name the river is to be known hereafter4 ,some of us go out for half a mile and climb a butte to the north4 ,the course of the ,dirty ,devil ,river can be traced for many miles4 ,it comes down through a very narrow canyon1 and beyond it1 to the southwest1 there is a long line of cliffs1 with a broad terrace1 or bench1 between it and the brink of the canyon1 and beyond these cliffs is situated the range of mountains seen as we came down ,narrow ,canyon4 ,looking up the ,colorado1 the chasm through which it runs can be seen1 but we cannot see down to its waters4 ,the whole country is a region of naked rock of many colors1 with cliffs and buttes about us and towering mountains in the distance4 ,july #bi4--,we enter a canyon to-day1 with low1 red walls4 ,a short distance below its head we discover the ruins of an old building on the left wall4 ,there is a narrow plain between the river and the wall just here1 and on the brink of a rock #bjj feet high stands this old house4 ,its walls are of stone1 laid in mortar with much regularity4 ,it was probably built three stories high2 the lower story is yet almost intact2 the second is much broken down1 and scarcely anything is left of the third4 ,great quantities of flint chips are found on the rocks near by1 and many arrowheads1 some perfect1 others broken2 and fragments of pottery are strewn about in great profusion4 ,on the face of the cliff1 under the building and along down the river for #bjj or #cjj yards1 there are many etchings4 ,two hours are given to the examination of these interesting ruins2 then we run down fifteen miles farther1 and discover another group4 ,the principal building was situated on the summit of the hill4 #bbh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,a part of the walls are standing1 to the height of eight or ten feet1 and the mortar yet remains in some places4 ,the house was in the shape of an ,l1 with five rooms on the ground floor1--one in the angle and two in each extension4 ,in the space in the angle there is a deep excavation4 ,from what we know of the people in the ,province of ,tusayan1 who are1 doubtless1 of the same race as the former inhabitants of these ruins1 we conclude that this was a kiva1 or underground chamber in which their religious ceremonies were performed4 ,we leave these ruins and run down two or three miles and go into camp about mid-afternoon4 ,and now ,i climb the wall and go out into the back country for a walk4 ,the sandstone through which the canyon is cut is red and homogeneous1 being the same as that through which ,labyrinth ,canyon runs4 ,the smooth1 naked rock stretches out on either side of the river for many miles1 but curiously carved mounds and cones are scattered everywhere and deep holes are worn out4 ,many of these pockets are filled with water4 ,in one of these holes or wells1 #bj feet deep1 ,i find a tree growing4 ,the excavation is so narrow that ,i can step from its brink to a limb on the tree and descend to the bottom of the well down a growing ladder4 ,many of these pockets powell-canyons-#adi4;jpg ,,ruins ,,on ,,the ,,brink ,,of ,,glen ,,canyon4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bbi are potholes1 being found in the courses of little rills or brooks that run during the rains which occasionally fall in this region2 and often a few harder rocks1 which evidently assisted in their excavation1 can be found in their bottoms4 ,others1 which are shallower1 are not so easily explained4 ,perhaps where they are found softer spots existed in the sandstone1 places that yielded more readily to atmospheric degradation1 the loose sands being carried away by the winds4 ,just before sundown ,i attempt to climb a rounded eminence1 from which ,i hope to obtain a good outlook on the surrounding country4 ,it is formed of smooth mounds1 piled one above another4 ,up these ,i climb1 winding here and there to find a practicable way1 until near the summit they become too steep for me to proceed4 ,i search about a few minutes for an easier way1 when ,i am surprised at finding a stairway1 evidently cut in the rock by hands4 ,at one place1 where there is a vertical wall of #aj or #ab feet1 ,i find an old1 rickety ladder4 ,it may be that this was a watchtower of that ancient people whose homes we have found in ruins4 ,on many of the tributaries of the ,colorado1 ,i have heretofore examined their deserted dwellings4 ,those that show evidences of being built during the latter part of their occupation of the country are usually placed on the most inaccessible cliffs4 ,sometimes the mouths of caves have been walled across1 and there are many other evidences to show their anxiety to secure defensible positions4 ,probably the nomadic tribes were sweeping down upon them and they resorted to these cliffs and canyons for safety4 ,it is not unreasonable to suppose that this orange mound was used as a watchtower4 ,here ,i stand1 where these now lost people stood centuries ago1 and look over this strange country1 gazing off to great mountains in the northwest which are slowly disappearing under cover of the night2 and then ,i return to camp4 ,it is no easy task to find my way down the wall in the darkness1 and ,i clamber about until it is nearly midnight when camp is reached4 ,july #cj4--,we make good progress to-day1 as the water1 though smooth1 is swift4 ,sometimes the canyon walls are vertical to the top2 sometimes they are vertical below and have a mound-covered slope above2 in other places the slope1 with its mounds1 comes down to the water's edge4 ,still proceeding on our way1 we find that the orange sandstone is cut in two by a group of firm1 calcareous strata1 and the lower bed is under- #bcj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 laid by soft1 gypsiferous shales4 ,sometimes the upper homogeneous bed is a smooth1 vertical wall1 but usually it is carved with mounds1 with gently meandering valley lines4 ,the lower bed1 yielding to gravity1 as the softer shales below work1 out into the river1 breaks into angular surfaces1 often having a columnar appearance4 ,one could almost imagine that the walls had been carved with a purpose1 to represent giant architectural forms4 ,in the deep recesses of the walls we find springs1 with mosses and ferns on the moistened sandstone4 ,july #ca4--,we have a cool1 pleasant ride to-day through this part of the canyon4 ,the walls are steadily increasing in altitude1 the curves are gentle1 and often the river sweeps by an arc of vertical wall1 smooth and unbroken1 and then by a curve that is variegated by royal arches1 mossy alcoves1 deep1 beautiful glens1 and painted grottoes4 ,soon after dinner we discover the mouth of the ,san ,juan1 where we camp4 ,the remainder of the afternoon is given to hunting some way by which we can climb out of the canyon2 but it ends in failure4 ,august #a4--,we drop down two miles this morning and go into camp again4 ,there is a low1 willow-covered strip of land along the walls on the east4 ,across this we walk1 to explore an alcove which we see from the river4 ,on entering1 we find a little grove of box-elder and cotton-wood trees1 and turning to the right1 we find ourselves in a vast chamber1 carved out of the rock4 ,at the upper end there is a clear1 deep pool of water1 bordered with verdure4 ,standing by the side of this1 we can see the grove at the entrance4 ,the chamber is more than #bjj feet high1 #ejj feet long1 and #bjj feet wide4 ,through the ceiling1 and on through the rocks for a thousand feet above1 there is a narrow1 winding skylight2 and this is all carved out by a little stream which runs only during the few showers that fall now and then in this arid country4 ,the waters from the bare rocks back of the canyon1 gathering rapidly into a small channel1 have eroded a deep side canyon1 through which they run until they fall into the farther end of this chamber4 ,the rock at the ceiling is hard1 the rock below1 very soft and friable2 and having cut through the upper and harder portion down into the lower and softer1 the stream has washed out these friable sandstones2 and thus the chamber has been excavated4 ,here we bring our camp4 ,when ,old ,shady sings us a song at ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bca night1 we are pleased to find that this hollow in the rock is filled with sweet sounds4 ,it was doubtless made for an academy of music by its storm-born architect2 so we name it ,music ,temple4 ,august #b4--,we still keep our camp in ,music ,temple to-day4 ,i wish to obtain a view of the adjacent country1 if possible2 so1 early in the morning the men take me across the river1 and ,i pass along by the foot of the cliff half a mile up stream and then climb1 first up broken ledges1 then #bjj or #cjj yards up a smooth1 sloping rock1 and then pass out on a narrow ridge4 ,still1 ,i find ,i have not attained an altitude from which ,i can overlook the region outside of the canyon2 and so ,i descend into a little gulch and climb again to a higher ridge1 all the way along naked sandstone1 and at last ,i reach a point of commanding view4 ,i can look several miles up the ,san ,juan1 and a long distance up the ,colorado2 and away to the northwest ,i can see the ,henry ,mountains2 to the northeast1 the ,sierra ,la ,sal2 to the southeast1 unknown mountains2 and to the southwest1 the meandering of the canyon4 ,then ,i return to the bank of the river4 ,we sleep again in ,music ,temple4 ,august #c4--,start early this morning4 ,the features of this canyon are greatly diversified4 ,still vertical walls at times4 ,these are usually found to stand above great curves4 ,the river1 sweeping around these powell-canyons-#aej4;jpg ,,island ,,monument ,,in ,,glen ,,canyon4 #bcb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 bends1 undermines the cliffs in places4 ,sometimes the rocks are overhanging2 in other curves1 curious1 narrow glens are found4 ,through these we climb1 by a rough stairway1 perhaps several hundred feet1 to where a spring bursts out from under an overhanging cliff1 and where cottonwoods and willows stand1 while along the curves of the brooklet oaks grow1 and other rich vegetation is seen1 in marked contrast to the general appearance of naked rock4 ,we call these ,oak ,glens4 ,other wonderful features are the many side canyons or gorges that we pass4 ,sometimes we stop to explore these for a short distance4 ,in some places their walls are much nearer each other above than below1 so that they look somewhat like caves or chambers in the rocks4 ,usually1 in going up such a gorge1 we find beautiful vegetation2 but our way is often cut off by deep basins1 or potholes1 as they are called4 ,on the walls1 and back many miles into the country1 numbers of monument-shaped buttes are observed4 ,so we have a curious ensemble of wonderful features--carved walls1 royal arches1 glens1 alcove gulches1 powell-canyons-#aea4;jpg ,,glen ,,canyon4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bcc mounds1 and monuments4 ,from which of these features shall we select a name8 ,we decide to call it ,glen ,canyon4 ,past these towering monuments1 past these mounded billows of orange sandstone1 past these oak-set glens1 past these fern-decked alcoves1 past these mural curves1 we glide hour after hour1 stopping now and then1 as our attention is arrested by some new wonder1 until we reach a point which is historic4 ,in the year #aggf1 ,father ,escalante1 a ,spanish priest1 made an expedition from ,santa ,fe to the northwest1 crossing the ,grand and ,green1 and then passing down along the ,wasatch ,mountains and the southern plateaus until he reached the ,rio ,virgen4 ,his intention was to cross to the ,mission of ,monterey2 but1 from information received from the ,indians1 he decided that the route was impracticable4 ,not wishing to return to ,santa ,fe over the circuitous route by which he had just traveled1 he attempted to go by one more direct1 which led him across the ,colorado at a point known as ,el ,vado de los ,padres4 ,from the description which we have read1 we are enabled to determine the place4 ,a little stream comes down through a very narrow side canyon from the west4 ,it was down this that he came1 and our boats are lying at the point where the ford crosses4 ,a well-beaten ,indian trail is seen here yet4 ,between the cliff and the river there is a little meadow4 ,the ashes of many camp fires are seen1 and the bones of numbers of cattle are bleaching on the grass4 ,for several years the ,navajos have raided on the ,mormons that dwell in the valleys to the west1 and they doubtless cross frequently at this ford with their stolen cattle4 ,august #d4--,to-day the walls grow higher and the canyon much narrower4 ,monuments are still seen on either side2 beautiful glens and alcoves and gorges and side canyons are yet found4 ,after dinner we find the river making a sudden turn to the northwest and the whole character of the canyon changed4 ,the walls are many hundreds of feet higher1 and the rocks are chiefly variegated shales of beautiful colors--creamy orange above1 then bright vermilion1 and below1 purple and chocolate beds1 with green and yellow sands4 ,we run four miles through this1 in a direction a little to the west of north1 wheel again to the west1 and pass into a portion of the canyon where the characteristics are more like those above the bend4 ,at night we stop at the mouth of #bcd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 a creek coming in from the right1 and suppose it to be the ,paria1 which was described to me last year by a ,mormon missionary4 ,here the canyon terminates abruptly in a line of cliffs1 which stretches from either side across the river4 ,august #e4--,with some feeling of anxiety we enter a new canyon this morning4 ,we have learned to observe closely the texture of the rock4 ,in softer strata we have a quiet river1 in harder we find rapids and falls4 ,below us are the limestones and hard sandstones which we found in ,cataract ,canyon4 ,this bodes toil and danger4 ,besides the texture of the rocks1 there is another condition which affects the character of the channel1 as we have found by experience4 ,where the strata are horizontal the river is often quiet1 and1 even though it may be very swift in places1 no great obstacles are found4 ,where the rocks incline in the direction traveled1 the river usually sweeps with great velocity1 but still has few rapids and falls4 ,but where the rocks dip up stream and the river cuts obliquely across the upturned formations1 harder strata above and softer below1 we have rapids and falls4 ,into hard rocks and into rocks dipping up stream we pass this morning and start on a long1 rocky1 mad rapid4 ,on the left there is a vertical rock1 and down by this cliff and around to the left we glide1 tossed just enough by the waves to appreciate the rate at which we are traveling4 #bce ,the canyon is narrow1 with vertical walls1 which gradually grow higher4 ,more rapids and falls are found4 ,we come to one with a drop of sixteen feet1 around which we make a portage1 and then stop for dinner4 ,then a run of two miles1 and another portage1 long and difficult2 then we camp for the night on a bank of sand4 ,august #f4--;,canyon walls1 still higher and higher1 as we go down through strata4 ,there is a steep talus at the foot of the cliff1 and in some places the upper parts of the walls are terraced4 ,about ten o'clock we come to a place where the river occupies the entire channel and the walls are vertical from the water's edge4 ,we see a fall below and row up against the cliff4 ,there is a little shelf1 or rather a horizontal crevice1 a few feet over our heads4 ,one man stands on the deck of the boat1 another climbs on his shoulders1 and then into the crevice4 ,then we pass him a line1 and two or three others1 with myself1 follow2 then we pass along the crevice until it becomes a shelf1 as #bce powell-canyons-#aeb4;jpg ,,an ,,enclosing ,,wall ,,of ,,upright ,,stones ,,at ,,ojo ,,caliente4 #bcf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the upper part1 or roof1 is broken off4 ,on this we walk for a short distance1 slowly climbing all the way1 until we reach a point where the shelf is broken off1 and we can pass no farther4 ,so we go back to the boat1 cross the stream1 and get some logs that have lodged in the rocks1 bring them to our side1 pass them along the crevice and shelf1 and bridge over the broken place4 ,then we go on to a point over the falls1 but do not obtain a satisfactory view4 ,so we climb out to the top of the wall and walk along to find a point below the fall from which it can be seen4 ,from this point it seems possible to let down our boats with lines to the head of the rapids1 and then make a portage2 so we return1 row down by the side of the cliff as far as we dare1 and fasten one of the boats to a rock4 ,then we let down another boat to the end of its line beyond the first1 and the third boat to the end of its line below the second1 which brings it to the head of the fall and under an overhanging rock4 ,then the upper boat1 in obedience to a signal1 lets go2 we pull in the line and catch the nearest boat as it comes1 and then the last4 ,the portage follows4 ,we go into camp early this afternoon at a place where it seems possible to climb out1 and the evening is spent in making observations for time4 powell-canyons-#aec4;jpg ,,marble ,,canyon4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bcg ,august #g4--,the almanac tells us that we are to have an eclipse of the sun to-day2 so ,captain ,powell and myself start early1 taking our instruments with us for the purpose of making observations on the eclipse to determine our longitude4 ,arriving at the summit1 after four hours' hard climbing to attain #b1cjj feet in height1 we hurriedly build a platform of rocks on which to place our instruments1 and quietly wait for the eclipse2 but clouds come on and rain falls1 and sun and moon are obscured4 ,much disappointed1 we start on our return to camp1 but it is late and the clouds make the night very dark4 ,we feel our way down among the rocks with great care for two or three hours1 making slow progress indeed4 ,at last we lose our way and dare proceed no farther4 ,the rain comes down in torrents and we can find no shelter4 ,we can neither climb up nor go down1 and in the darkness dare not move about2 so we sit and weather out the night4 ,august #h4--;,daylight comes after a long1 oh1 how long6 a night1 and we soon reach camp4 ,after breakfast we start again1 and make two portages during the forenoon4 ,the limestone of this canyon is often polished1 and makes a beautiful marble4 ,sometimes the rocks are of many colors--white1 gray1 pink1 and purple1 with saffron tints4 ,it is with very great labor that we make progress1 meeting with many obstructions1 running rapids1 letting down our boats with lines from rock to rock1 and sometimes carrying boats and cargoes around bad places4 ,we camp at night1 just after a hard portage1 under an overhanging wall1 glad to find shelter from the rain4 ,we have to search for some time to find a few sticks of driftwood1 just sufficient to boil a cup of coffee4 ,the water sweeps rapidly in this elbow of river1 and has cut its way under the rock1 excavating a vast half-circular chamber1 which1 if utilized for a theater1 would give sitting to #ej1jjj people4 ,objection might be raised against it1 however1 for at high water the floor is covered with a raging flood4 ,august #i4--;,and now the scenery is on a grand scale4 ,the walls of the canyon1 #b1ejj feet high1 are of marble1 of many beautiful colors1 often polished below by the waves1 and sometimes far up the sides1 where showers have washed the sands over the cliffs4 ,at one place ,i #bch #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 have a walk for more than a mile on a marble pavement1 all polished and fretted with strange devices and embossed in a thousand fantastic patterns4 ,through a cleft in the wall the sun shines on this pavement and it gleams in iridescent beauty4 ,i pass up into the cleft4 ,it is very narrow1 with a succession of pools standing at higher levels as ,i go back4 ,the water in these pools is clear and cool1 coming down from springs4 ,then ,i return to the pavement1 which is but a terrace or bench1 over which the river runs at its flood1 but left bare at present4 ,along the pavement in many places are basins of clear water1 in strange contrast to the red mud of the river4 ,at length ,i come to the end of this marble terrace and take again to the boat4 ,riding down a short distance1 a beautiful view is presented4 ,the river turns sharply to the east and seems inclosed by a wall set with a million brilliant gems4 ,what can it mean8 ,every eye is engaged1 every one wonders4 ,on coming nearer we find fountains bursting from the rock high overhead1 and the spray in the sunshine forms the gems which bedeck the wall4 ,the rocks below the fountain are covered with mosses and ferns and many beautiful flowering plants4 ,we name it ,vasey's ,paradise1 in honor of the botanist who traveled with us last year4 ,we pass many side canyons to-day that are dark1 gloomy passages back into the heart of the rocks that form the plateau through which this canyon is cut4 ,it rains again this afternoon4 ,scarcely do the first drops fall when little rills run down the walls4 ,as the storm comes on1 the little rills increase in size1 until great streams are formed4 ,although the walls of the canyon are chiefly limestone1 the adjacent country is of red sandstone2 and now the waters1 loaded with these sands1 come down in rivers of bright red mud1 leaping over the walls in innumerable cascades4 ,it is plain now how these walls are polished in many places4 ,at last the storm ceases and we go on4 ,we have cut through the sandstones and limestones met in the upper part of the canyon1 and through one great bed of marble a thousand feet in thickness4 ,in this1 great numbers of caves are hollowed out1 and carvings are seen which suggest architectural forms1 though on a scale so grand that architec- #bci powell-canyons-#aed4;jpg ,,noonday ,,rest ,,in ,,marble ,,canyon4 #bdj powell-canyons-#aee4;jpg ,,view ,,of ,,marble ,,canyon ,,from ,,vermilion ,,cliffs4 ,,from ,,the ,,grand ,,to ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bda tural terms belittle them4 ,as this great bed forms a distinctive feature of the canyon1 we call it ,marble ,canyon4 ,it is a peculiar feature of these walls that many projections are set out into the river1 as if the wall was buttressed for support4 ,the walls themselves are half a mile high1 and these buttresses are on a corresponding scale1 jutting into the river scores of feet4 ,in the recesses between these projections there are quiet bays1 except at the foot of a rapid1 when there are dancing eddies or whirlpools4 ,sometimes these alcoves have caves at the back1 giving them the appearance of great depth4 ,then other caves are seen above1 forming vast dome-shaped chambers4 ,the walls and buttresses and chambers are all of marble4 ,the river is now quiet2 the canyon wider4 ,above1 when the river is at its flood1 the waters gorge up1 so that the difference between high and low water mark is often #ej or even #gj feet1 but here high-water mark is not more than #bj feet above the present stage of the river4 ,sometimes there is a narrow flood plain between the water and the wall4 ,here we first discover mesquite shrubs1--small trees with finely divided leaves and pods1 somewhat like the locust4 ,august #aj4--,walls still higher2 water swift again4 ,we pass several broad1 ragged canyons on our right1 and up through these we catch glimpses of a forest-clad plateau1 miles away to the west4 ,at two o'clock we reach the mouth of the ,colorado ,chiquito4 ,this stream enters through a canyon on a scale quite as grand as that of the ,colorado itself4 ,it is a very small river and exceedingly muddy and saline4 ,i walk up the stream three or four miles this afternoon1 crossing and recrossing where ,i can easily wade it4 ,then ,i climb several hundred feet at one place1 and can see for several miles up the chasm through which the river runs4 ,on my way back ,i kill two rattlesnakes1 and find on my arrival that another has been killed just at camp4 ,august #aa4--,we remain at this point to-day for the purpose of determining the latitude and longitude1 measuring the height of the walls1 drying our rations1 and repairing our boats4 ,captain ,powell early in the morning takes a barometer and goes out to climb a point between the two rivers4 ,i walk down the gorge to the left at the foot of the cliff1 climb to a bench1 and discover a trail1 deeply worn in the rock4 ,where it crosses the side gulches in some #bdb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 places steps have been cut4 ,i can see no evidence of its having been traveled for a long time4 ,it was doubtless a path used by the people who inhabited this country anterior to the present ,indian races--the people who built the communal houses of which mention has been made4 ,i return to camp about three o'clock and find that some of the men have discovered ruins and many fragments of pottery2 also etchings and hieroglyphics on the rocks4 ,we find to-night1 on comparing the readings of the barometers1 that the walls are about #c1jjj feet high--more than half a mile--an altitude difficult to appreciate from a mere statement of feet4 ,the slope by which the ascent is made is not such a slope as is usually found in climbing a mountain1 but one much more abrupt--often vertical for many hundreds of feet1--so that the impression is given that we are at great depths1 and we look up to see but a little patch of sky4 ,between the two streams1 above the ,colorado ,chiquito1 in some places the rocks are broken and shelving for #fjj ,or #gjj feet2 then there is a sloping terrace1 which can be climbed only by finding some way up a gulch2 then another terrace1 and back1 still another cliff4 ,the summit of the cliff is #c1jjj feet above the river1 as our barometers attest4 ,our camp is below the ,colorado ,chiquito and on the eastern side of the canyon4 ,august #ab4--,the rocks above camp are rust-colored sandstones and conglomerates4 ,some are very hard2 others quite soft4 ,they all lie nearly horizontal1 and the beds of softer material have been washed out1 leaving the harder forming a series of shelves4 ,long lines of these are seen1 of varying thickness1 from one or two to twenty or thirty feet1 and the spaces between have the same variability4 ,this morning ,i spend two or three hours in climbing among these shelves1 and then ,i pass above them and go up a long slope to the foot of the cliff and try to discover some way by which ,i can reach the top of the wall2 but ,i find my progress cut off by an amphitheater4 ,then ,i wander away around to the left1 up a little gulch and along benches1 climbing from time to time1 until ,i reach an altitude of nearly #b1jjj feet and can get no higher4 ,from this point ,i can look off to the west1 up side canyons of the ,colorado1 and see the edge of a great plateau1 from which streams run down into the ,colorado1 and deep gulches in the #bdc powell-canyons-#aef4;jpg ,,adobe ,,walls1 ,,zu,i #bdd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 escarpment which faces us1 continued by canyons1 ragged and flaring and set with cliffs and towering crags1 down to the river4 ,i can see far up ,marble ,canyon to long lines of chocolate-colored cliffs1 and above these the ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,i can see1 also1 up the ,colorado ,chiquito1 through a very ragged and broken canyon1 with sharp salients set out from the walls on either side1 their points overlapping1 so that a huge tooth of marble on one side seems to be set between two teeth on the opposite2 and ,i can also get glimpses of walls standing away back from the river1 while over my head are mural escarpments not possible to be scaled4 ,cataract ,canyon is #da miles long4 ,the walls are #a1cjj feet high at its head1 and they gradually increase in altitude to a point about halfway down1 where they are #b1gjj feet1 and then decrease to #a1cjj feet at the foot4 ,narrow ,canyon is #i #a_/b miles long1 with walls #a1cjj feet in height at the head and coming down to the water at the foot4 ,there is very little vegetation in this canyon or in the adjacent country4 ,just at the junction of the ,grand and ,green there are a number of hackberry trees2 and along the entire length of ,cataract ,canyon the high-water line is marked by scattered trees of the same species4 ,a few nut pines and cedars are found1 and occasionally a redbud or ,judas tree2 but the general aspect of the canyons and of the adjacent country is that of naked rock4 #bdd ,the distance through ,glen ,canyon is #adi miles4 ,its walls vary in height from #bjj or #cjj to #a1fjj feet4 ,marble ,canyon is #fe #a_/b miles long4 ,at its head it is #bjj feet deep1 and it steadily increases in depth to its foot1 where its walls are #c1ejj feet high4 #bde powell-canyons-#aeg4;jpg #bdf powell-canyons-#aeh4;jpg ,,at ,,the ,,mouth ,,of ,,the ,,little ,,colorado4 #bdg ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,from ,,the ,,little ,,colorado ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 ,,august #ac4--,we are now ready to start on our way down the ,great ,unknown4 ,our boats1 tied to a common1 stake1 chafe each other as they are tossed by the fretful river4 ,they ride high and buoyant1 for their loads are lighter than we could desire4 ,we have but a month's rations remaining4 ,the flour has been resifted through the mosquito-net sieve2 the spoiled bacon has been dried and the worst of it boiled2 the few pounds of dried apples have been spread in the sun and reshrunken to their normal bulk4 ,the sugar has all melted and gone on its way down the river4 ,but we have a large sack of coffee4 ,the lightening of the boats has this advantage3 they will ride the waves better and we shall have but little to carry when we make a portage4 ,we are three quarters of a mile in the depths of the earth1 and the great river shrinks into insignificance as it dashes its angry waves against the walls and cliffs that rise to the world above2 the waves are but puny ripples1 and we but pigmies1 running up and down the sands or lost among the boulders4 ,we have an unknown distance yet to run1 an unknown river to explore4 ,what falls there are1 we know not2 what rocks beset the channel1 we know not2 what walls rise over the river1 we know not4 ,ah1 well6 we may conjecture many things4 ,the men talk as cheerfully as ever2 jests are bandied about freely this morning2 but to me the cheer is somber and the jests are ghastly4 ,with some eagerness and some anxiety and some misgiving we enter the canyon below and are carried along by the swift water through walls which rise from its very edge4 ,they have the same structure that we noticed yesterday--tiers of irregular shelves below1 and1 above these1 #bdh #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 steep slopes to the foot of marble cliffs4 ,we run six miles in a little more than half an hour and emerge into a more open portion of the canyon1 where high hills and ledges of rock intervene between the river and the distant walls4 ,just at the head of this open place the river runs across a dike2 that is1 a fissure in the rocks1 open to depths below1 was filled with eruptive matter1 and this on cooling was harder than the rocks through which the crevice was made1 and when these were washed away the harder volcanic matter remained as a wall1 and the river has cut a gateway through it several hundred feet high and as many wide4 ,as it crosses the wall1 there is a fall below and a bad rapid1 filled with boulders of trap2 so we stop to make a portage4 ,then on we go1 gliding by hills and ledges1 with distant walls in view2 sweeping past sharp angles of rock2 stopping at a few points to examine rapids1 which we find can be run1 until we have made another five miles1 when we land for dinner4 ,then we let down with lines over a long rapid and start again4 ,once more the walls close in1 and we find ourselves in a narrow gorge1 the water again filling the channel and being very swift4 ,with great care and constant watchfulness we proceed1 making about four miles this afternoon1 and camp in a cave4 ,august #ad---;,at daybreak we walk down the bank of the river1 on a little sandy beach1 to take a view of a new feature in the canyon4 ,heretofore hard rocks have given us bad river2 soft rocks1 smooth water2 and a series of rocks harder than any we have experienced sets in4 ,the river enters the gneiss6 ,we can see but a little way into the granite gorge1 but it looks threatening4 ,after breakfast we enter on the waves4 ,at the very introduction it inspires awe4 ,the canyon is narrower than we have ever before seen it2 the water is swifter2 there are but few broken rocks in the channel2 but the walls are set1 on either side1 with pinnacles and crags2 and sharp1 angular buttresses1 bristling with wind- and wave-polished spires1 extend far out into the river4 ,ledges of rock jut into the stream1 their tops sometimes just below the surface1 sometimes rising a few or many feet above2 and island ledges and island pinnacles and island towers break the swift course of the stream into chutes and eddies and whirlpools4 ,we soon reach a place ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bdi where a creek comes in from the left1 and1 just below1 the channel is choked with boulders1 which have washed down this lateral canyon and formed a dam1 over which there is a fall of #cj or #dj feet2 but on the boulders foothold can be had1 and we make a portage4 ,three more such dams are found4 ,over one we make a portage2 at the other two are chutes through which we can run4 ,as we proceed the granite rises higher1 until nearly a thousand feet of the lower part of the walls are composed of this rock4 powell-canyons-#aei4;jpg ,,walls ,,of ,,gneiss4 ,about eleven o'clock we hear a great roar ahead1 and approach it very cautiously4 ,the sound grows louder and louder as we run1 and at last we find ourselves above a long1 broken fall1 with ledges and pinnacles of #bej ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 rock obstructing the river4 ,there is a descent of perhaps #ge or #hj feet in a third of a mile1 and the rushing waters break into great waves powell-canyons-#afj4;jpg ,,running ,a ,,rapid4 on the rocks1 and lash themselves into a mad1 white foam4 ,we can land just above1 but there is no foothold on either side by which we can make a portage4 ,it is nearly a thousand feet to the top of the granite2 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bea so it will be impossible to carry our boats around1 though we can climb to the summit up a side gulch and1 passing along a mile or two1 descend to the river4 ,this we find on examination2 but such a portage would be impracticable for us1 and we must run the rapid or abandon the river4 ,there is no hesitation4 ,we step into our boats1 push off1 and away we go1 first on smooth but swift water1 then we strike a glassy wave and ride to its top1 down again into the trough1 up again on a higher wave1 and down and up on waves higher and still higher until we strike one just as it curls back1 and a breaker rolls over our little boat4 ,still on we speed1 shooting past projecting rocks1 till the little boat is caught in a whirlpool and spun round several times4 ,at last we pull out again into the stream4 ,and now the other boats have passed us4 ,the open compartment of the ,emma ,dean is filled with water and every breaker rolls over us4 ,hurled back from a rock1 now on this side1 now on that1 we are carried into an eddy1 in which we struggle for a few minutes1 and are then out again1 the breakers still rolling over us4 ,our boat is unmanageable1 but she cannot sink1 and we drift down another hundred yards through breakers--how1 we scarcely know4 ,we find the other boats have turned into an eddy at the foot of the fall and are waiting to catch us as we come1 for the men have seen that our boat is swamped4 ,they push out as we come near and pull us in against the wall4 ,our boat bailed1 on we go again4 ,the walls now are more than a mile in height--a vertical distance difficult to appreciate4 ,stand on the south steps of the ,treasury building in ,washington and look down ,pennsylvania ,avenue to the ,capitol2 measure this distance overhead1 and imagine cliffs to extend to that altitude1 and you will understand what is meant2 or stand at ,canal ,street in ,new ,york and look up ,broadway to ,grace ,church1 and you have about the distance2 or stand at ,lake ,street bridge in ,chicago and look down to the ,central ,depot1 and you have it again4 ,a thousand feet of this is up through granite crags2 then steep slopes and perpendicular cliffs rise one above another to the summit4 ,the gorge is black and narrow below1 red and gray and flaring above1 with crags and angular projections on the walls1 which1 cut in many places by side canyons1 seem to be a vast wilderness of rocks4 ,down in these grand1 gloomy depths we glide1 ever listening1 for the mad waters keep #beb powell-canyons-#afa4;jpg ,,head ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bec up their roar2 ever watching1 ever peering ahead1 for the narrow canyon is winding and the river is closed in so that we can see but a few hundred yards1 and what there may be below we know not2 so we listen for falls and watch for rocks1 stopping now and then in the bay of a recess to admire the gigantic scenery2 and ever as we go there is some new pinnacle or tower1 some crag or peak1 some distant view of the upper plateau1 some strangely shaped rock1 or some deep1 narrow side canyon4 ,then we come to another broken fall1 which appears more difficult than the one we ran this morning4 ,a small creek comes in on the right1 and the first fall of the water is over boulders1 which have been carried down by this lateral stream4 ,we land at its mouth and stop for an hour or two to examine the fall4 ,it seems possible to let down with lines1 at least a part of the way1 from point to point1 along the right-hand wall4 ,so we make a portage over the first rocks and find footing on some boulders below4 ,then we let down one of the boats to the end of her line1 when she reaches a corner of the projecting rock1 to which one of the men clings and steadies her while ,i examine an eddy below4 ,i think we can pass the other boats down by us and catch them in the eddy4 ,this is soon done1 and the men in the boats in the eddy pull us to their side4 ,on the shore of this little eddy there is about two feet of gravel beach above the water4 ,standing on this beach1 some of the men take the line of the little boat and let it drift down against another projecting angle4 ,here is a little shelf1 on which a man from my boat climbs1 and a shorter line is passed to him1 and he fastens the boat to the side of the cliff2 then the second one is let down1 bringing the line of the third4 ,when the second boat is tied up1 the two men standing on the beach above spring into the last boat1 which is pulled up alongside of ours2 then we let down the boats for #be or #cj yards by walking along the shelf1 landing them again in the mouth of a side canyon4 ,just below this there is another pile of boulders1 over which we make another portage4 ,from the foot of these rocks we can climb to another shelf1 #dj or #ej feet above the water4 ,on this bench we camp for the night4 ,it is raining hard1 and we have no shelter1 but find a few sticks which have lodged in the rocks1 and kindle a fire and have supper4 ,we sit on the rocks all night1 wrapped in our ponchos1 getting what sleep we can4 #bed powell-canyons-#afb4;jpg ,,the ,,inner ,,gorge4 #bee ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 ,august #ae4--,this morning we find we can let down for #cjj or #djj yards1 and it is managed in this way3 we pass along the wall by climbing from projecting point to point1 sometimes near the water's edge1 at other places #ej or #fj feet above1 and hold the boat with a line while two men remain aboard and prevent her from being dashed against the rocks and keep the line from getting caught on the wall4 ,in two hours we have brought them all down1 as far as it is possible1 in this way4 ,a few yards below1 the river strikes with great violence against a projecting rock and our boats are pulled up in a little bay above4 ,we must now manage to pull out of this and clear the point below4 ,the little boat is held by the bow obliquely up the stream4 ,we jump in and pull out only a few strokes1 and sweep clear of the dangerous rock4 ,the other boats follow in the same manner and the rapid is passed4 ,it is not easy to describe the labor of such navigation4 ,we must prevent the waves from dashing the boats against the cliffs4 ,sometimes1 where the river is swift1 we must put a bight of rope about a rock1 to prevent the boat from being snatched from us by a wave2 but where the plunge is too great or the chute too swift1 we must let her leap and catch her below or the undertow will drag her under the falling water and sink her4 ,where we wish to run her out a little way from shore through a channel between rocks1 we first throw in little sticks of driftwood and watch their course1 to see where we must steer so that she will pass the channel in safety4 ,and so we hold1 and let go1 and pull1 and lift1 and ward--among rocks1 around rocks1 and over rocks4 ,and now we go on through this solemn1 mysterious way4 ,the river is very deep1 the canyon very narrow1 and still obstructed1 so that there is no steady flow of the stream2 but the waters reel and roll and boil1 and we are scarcely able to determine where we can go4 ,now the boat is carried to the right1 perhaps close to the wall2 again1 she is shot into the stream1 and perhaps is dragged over to the other side1 where1 caught in a whirlpool1 she spins about4 ,we can neither land nor run as we please4 ,the boats are entirely unmanageable2 no order in their running can be preserved2 now one1 now another1 is ahead1 each crew laboring for its own preservation4 ,in such a place we come to another rapid4 ,two of the boats run it perforce4 ,one succeeds in landing1 but there is no foothold by which to make a portage and she is pushed out again into #bef ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the stream4 ,the next minute a great reflex wave fills the open compartment2 she is water-logged1 and drifts unmanageable4 ,breaker after breaker rolls over her and one capsizes her4 ,the men are thrown out2 but they cling to the boat1 and she drifts down some distance alongside of us and we are able to catch her4 ,she is soon bailed out and the men are aboard once more2 but the oars are lost1 and so a pair from the ,emma ,dean is spared4 ,then for two miles we find smooth water4 ,clouds are playing in the canyon to-day4 ,sometimes they roll down in great masses1 filling the gorge with gloom2 sometimes they hang aloft from wall to wall and cover the canyon with a roof of impending storm1 and we can peer long distances up and down this canyon corridor1 with its cloud-roof overhead1 its walls of black granite1 and its river bright with the sheen of broken waters4 ,then a gust of wind sweeps down a side gulch and1 making a rift in the clouds1 reveals the blue heavens1 and a stream of sunlight pours in4 ,then the clouds drift away into the distance1 and hang around crags and peaks and pinnacles and towers and walls1 and cover them with a mantle that lifts from time to time and sets them all in sharp relief4 ,then baby clouds creep out of side canyons1 glide around points1 and creep back again into more distant gorges4 ,then clouds arrange in strata across the canyon1 with intervening vista views to cliffs and rocks beyond4 ,the clouds are children of the heavens1 and when they play among the rocks they lift them to the region above4 #bef ,it rains6 ,rapidly little rills are formed above1 and these soon grow into brooks1 and the brooks grow into creeks and tumble over the walls in innumerable cascades1 adding their wild music to the roar of the river4 ,when the rain ceases the rills1 brooks1 and creeks run dry4 ,the waters that fall during a rain on these steep rocks are gathered at once into the river2 they could scarcely be poured in more suddenly if some vast spout ran from the clouds to the stream itself4 ,when a storm bursts over the canyon a side gulch is dangerous1 for a sudden flood may come1 and the inpouring waters will raise the river so as to hide the rocks4 ,early in the afternoon we discover a stream entering from the north--a clear1 beautiful creek1 coming down through a gorgeous red canyon4 ,we land and camp on a sand beach above its mouth1 under a great1 overspreading tree with willow-shaped leaves4 #beg powell-canyons-#afc4;jpg ,,signal ,,of ,,discovery ,,or ,,alarm4 #beh powell-canyons-#afd4;jpg ,,signal1 ,,who ,,are ,,you8 ,,answer1 ,,pani4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bei ,august #af4--,we must dry our rations again to-day and make oars4 ,the ,colorado is never a clear stream1 but for the past three or four days it has been raining much of the time1 and the floods poured over the walls have brought down great quantities of mud1 making it exceedingly turbid now4 ,the little affluent which we have discovered here is a clear1 beautiful creek1 or river1 as it would be termed in this western country1 where streams are not abundant4 ,we have named one stream1 away above1 in honor of the great chief of the ,bad ,angels1 and as this is in beautiful contrast to that1 we conclude to name it ,bright ,angel4 ,early in the morning the whole party starts up to explore the ,bright ,angel ,river1 with the special purpose of seeking timber from which to make oars4 ,a couple of miles above we find a large pine log1 which has been floated down from the plateau1 probably from an altitude of more than #f1jjj feet1 but not many miles back4 ,on its way it must have passed over many cataracts and falls1 for it bears scars in evidence of the rough usage which it has received4 ,the men roll it on skids1 and the work of sawing oars is commenced4 ,this stream heads away back under a line of abrupt cliffs that terminates the plateau1 and tumbles down more than #d1jjj feet in the first mile or two of its course2 then runs through a deep1 narrow canyon until it reaches the river4 ,late in the afternoon ,i return and go up a little gulch just above this creek1 about #bjj yards from camp1 and discover the ruins of two or three old houses1 which were originally of stone laid in mortar4 ,only the foundations are left1 but irregular blocks1 of which the houses were constructed1 lie scattered about4 ,in one room ,i find an old mealing-stone1 deeply worn1 as if it had been much used4 ,a great deal of pottery is strewn around1 and old trails1 which in some places are deeply worn into the rocks1 are seen4 ,it is ever a source of wonder to us why these ancient people sought such inaccessible places for their homes4 ,they were1 doubtless1 an agricultural race1 but there are no lands here of any considerable extent that they could have cultivated4 ,to the west of ,oraibi1 one of the towns in the ,province of ,tusayan1 in northern ,arizona1 the inhabitants have actually built little terraces along the face of the cliff where a #bfj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 spring gushes out1 and thus made their sites for gardens4 ,it is possible that the ancient inhabitants of this place made their agricultural lands in the same way4 ,but why should they seek such spots'8 ,surely the country was not so crowded with people as to demand the utilization of so barren a region4 ,the only solution suggested of the problem is this3 ,we know that for a century or two after the settlement of ,mexico many expeditious were sent into the country now comprising ,arizona and ,new ,mexico1 for the purpose of bringing the town-building people under the dominion of the ,spanish government4 ,many of their villages were destroyed1 and the inhabitants fled to regions at that time unknown2 and there are traditions among the people who inhabit the pueblos that still remain that the canyons were these unknown lauds4 ,it may be these buildings were erected at that time2 sure it is that they have a much more modern appearance than the ruins scattered over ,nevada1 ,utah1 ,colorado1 ,arizona1 and ,new ,mexico4 ,those old ,spanish conquerors had a monstrous greed for gold and a wonderful lust for saving souls4 ,treasures they must have1 if not on earth1 why1 then1 in heaven2 and when they failed to find heathen temples bedecked with silver1 they propitiated ,heaven by seizing the heathen themselves4 ,there is yet extant a copy of a record made by a heathen artist to express his conception of the demands of the conquerors4 ,in one part of the picture we have a lake1 and near by stands a priest pouring water on the head of a native4 ,on the other side1 a poor ,indian has a cord about his throat4 ,lines run from these two groups to a central figure1 a man with beard and full ,spanish panoply4 ,the interpretation of the picture-writing is this3 ,be baptized as this saved heathen1 or be hanged as that damned heathen4 ,doubtless1 some of these people preferred another alternative1 and rather than be baptized or hanged they chose to imprison themselves within these canyon walls4 ,august #ag4--,our rations are still spoiling2 the bacon is so badly injured that we are compelled to throw it away4 ,by an accident1 this morning1 the saleratus was lost overboard4 ,we have now only musty flour sufficient for ten days and a few dried apples1 but plenty of coffee4 ,we must make all haste possible4 ,if we meet with difficulties such as we have encountered in the canyon above1 we may be compelled to give up the expedition and try to reach the ,mormon settlements to the north4 #bfa powell-canyons-#afe4;jpg ,,signal ,,of ,,successful ,,war ,,party4 #bfb powell-canyons-#aff4;jpg ,a ,,signal ,,of ,,peace4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bfc ,our hopes are that the worst places are passed1 but our barometers are all so much injured as to be useless1 and so we have lost our reckoning in altitude1 and know not how much descent the river has yet to make4 ,the stream is still wild and rapid and rolls through a narrow channel4 ,we make but slow progress1 often landing against a wall and climbing around some point to see the river below4 ,although very anxious to advance1 we are determined to run with great caution1 lest by another accident we lose our remaining supplies4 ,how precious that little flour has become6 ,we divide it among the boats and carefully store it away1 so that it can be lost only by the loss of the boat itself4 ,we make ten miles and a half1 and camp among the rocks on the right4 ,we have had rain from time to time all day1 and have been thoroughly drenched and chilled2 but between showers the sun shines with great power and the mercury in our thermometers stands at #aae degrees1 so that we have rapid changes from great extremes1 which are very disagreeable4 ,it is especially cold in the rain to-night4 ,the little canvas we have is rotten and useless2 the rubber ponchos with which we started from ,green ,river ,city have all been lost2 more than half the party are without hats1 not one of us has an entire suit of clothes1 and we have not a blanket apiece4 ,so we gather driftwood and build a fire2 but after supper the rain1 coming down in torrents1 extinguishes it1 and we sit up all night on the rocks1 shivering1 and are more exhausted by the night's discomfort than by the day's toil4 ,august #ah4--,the day is employed in making portages and we advance but two miles on our journey4 ,still it rains4 ,while the men are at work making portages ,i climb up the granite to its summit and go away back over the rust-colored sandstones and greenish-yellow shales to the foot of the marble wall4 ,i climb so high that the men and boats are lost in the black depths below and the dashing river is a rippling brook1 and still there is more canyon above than below4 ,all about me are interesting geologic records4 ,the book is open and ,i can read as ,i run4 ,all about me are grand views1 too1 for the clouds are playing again in the gorges4 ,but somehow ,i think of the nine days' rations and the bad river1 and the lesson of the rocks and the glory of the scene are but half conceived4 ,i push on to an angle1 where ,i hope to get a view of the country #bfd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 beyond1 to see if possible what the prospect may be of our soon running through this plateau1 or at least of meeting with some geologic change that will let us out of the granite2 but1 arriving at the point1 ,i can see below only a labyrinth of black gorges4 ,august #ai4--,rain again this morning4 ,we are in our granite prison still1 and the time until noon is occupied in making a long2 bad portage4 ,after dinner1 in running a rapid the pioneer boat is upset by a wave4 ,we are some distance in advance of the larger boats4 ,the river is rough and swift and we are unable to land1 but cling to the boat and are carried down stream over another rapid4 ,the men in the boats above see our trouble1 but they are caught in whirlpools and are spinning about in eddies1 and it seems a long time before they come to our relief4 ,at last they do come2 our boat is turned right side up and bailed out2 the oars1 which fortunately have floated along in company with us1 are gathered up1 and on we go1 without even landing4 ,the clouds break away and we have sunshine again4 ,soon we find a little beach with just room enough to land4 ,here we camp1 but there is no wood4 ,across the river and a little way above1 we see some driftwood lodged in the rocks4 ,so we bring two boat loads over1 build a huge fire1 and spread everything to dry4 ,it is the first cheerful night we have had for a week--a warm1 drying fire in the midst of the camp1 and a few bright stars in our patch of heavens overhead4 ,august #bj4--,the characteristics of the canyon change this morning4 ,the river is broader1 the walls more sloping1 and composed of black slates that stand on edge4 ,these nearly vertical slates are washed out in places--that is1 the softer beds are washed out between the harder1 which are left standing4 ,in this way curious little alcoves are formed1 in which are quiet bays of water1 but on a much smaller scale than the great bays and buttresses of ,marble ,canyon4 ,the river is still rapid and we stop to let down with lines several times1 but make greater progress1 as we run ten miles4 ,we camp on the right bank4 ,here1 on a terrace of trap1 we discover another group of ruins4 ,there was evidently quite a village on this rock4 ,again we find mealing-stones and much broken pottery1 and up on a little natural shelf in the rock back of the ruins we find a globular basket that would hold #bfe powell-canyons-#afg4;jpg ,,moki ,,method ,,of ,,dressing ,,the ,,hair4 #bff powell-canyons-#afh4;jpg ,,moki ,,method ,,of ,,spinning4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bfg perhaps a third of a bushel4 ,it is badly broken1 and as ,i attempt to take it up it falls to pieces4 ,there are many beautiful flint chips1 also1 as if this had been the home of an old arrow-maker4 ,august #ba4--,we start early this morning1 cheered by the prospect of a fine day and encouraged also by the good run made yesterday4 ,a quarter of a mile below camp the river turns abruptly to the left1 and between camp and that point is very swift1 running down in a long1 broken chute and piling up against the foot of the cliff1 where it turns to the left4 ,we try to pull across1 so as to go down on the other side1 but the waters are swift and it seems impossible for us to escape the rock below2 but1 in pulling across1 the bow of the boat is turned to the farther shore1 so that we are swept broadside down and are prevented by the rebounding waters from striking against the wall4 ,we toss about for a few seconds in these billows and are then carried past the danger4 ,below1 the river turns again to the right1 the canyon is very narrow1 and we see in advance but a short distance4 ,the water1 too1 is very swift1 and there is no landing-place4 ,from around this curve there comes a mad roar1 and down we are carried with a dizzying velocity to the head of another rapid4 ,on either side high over our heads there are overhanging granite walls1 and the sharp bends cut off our view1 so that a few minutes will carry us into unknown waters4 ,away we go on one long1 winding chute4 ,i stand on deck1 supporting myself with a strap fastened on either side of the gunwale4 ,the boat glides rapidly where the water is smooth1 then1 striking a wave1 she leaps and bounds like a thing of life1 and we have a wild1 exhilarating ride for ten miles1 which we make in less than an hour4 ,the excitement is so great that we forget the danger until we hear the roar of a great fall below2 then we back on our oars and are carried slowly toward its head and succeed in landing just above and find that we have to make another portage4 ,at this we are engaged until some time after dinner4 ,just here we run out of the granite4 ,ten miles in less than half a day1 and limestone walls below4 ,good cheer returns2 we forget the storms and the gloom and the cloud-covered canyons and the black granite and the raging river1 and push our boats from shore in great glee4 ,though we are out of the granite1 the river is still swift1 and we wheel about a point again to the right1 and turn1 so as to head back in the #bfh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado1 direction from which we came2 this brings the granite in sight again1 with its narrow gorge and black crags2 but we meet with no more great falls or rapids4 ,still1 we run cautiously and stop from time to time to examine some places which look bad4 ,yet we make ten miles this afternoon2 twenty miles in all to-day4 ,august #bb4--,we come to rapids again this morning and are occupied several hours in passing them1 letting the boats down from rock to rock with lines for nearly half a mile1 and then have to make a long portage4 ,while the men are engaged in this ,i climb the wall on the northeast to a height of about #b1ejj feet1 where ,i can obtain a good view of a long stretch of canyon below4 ,its course is to the southwest4 ,the walls seem to rise very abruptly for #b1ejj or #c1jjj feet1 and then there is a gently sloping terrace on each side for two or three miles1 when we again find cliffs1 #a1ejj or #b1jjj feet high4 ,from the brink of these the plateau stretches back to the north and south for a long distance4 ,away down the canyon on the right wall ,i can see a group of mountains1 some of which appear to stand on the brink of the canyon4 ,the effect of the terrace is to give the appearance of a narrow winding valley with high walls on either side and a deep1 dark1 meandering gorge down its middle4 ,it is impossible from this point of view to determine whether or not we have granite at the bottom2 but from geologic considerations1 ,i conclude that we shall have marble walls below4 ,after my return to the boats we run another mile and camp for the night4 ,we have made but little over seven miles to-day1 and a part of our flour has been soaked in the river again4 ,august #bc4--,our way to-day is again through marble walls4 ,now and then we pass for a short distance through patches of granite1 like hills thrust up into the limestone4 ,at one of these places we have to make another portage1 and1 taking advantage of the delay1 ,i go up a little stream to the north1 wading it all the way1 sometimes having to plunge in to my neck1 in other places being compelled to swim across little basins that have been excavated at the foot of the falls4 ,along its course are many cascades and springs1 gushing out from the rocks on either side4 ,sometimes a cottonwood tree grows over the water4 ,i come to one beautiful fall1 of more than #aej feet1 and climb around it to the right on the broken rocks4 ,still going up1 the canyon is found to narrow very #bfi powell-canyons-#afi4;jpg ,,an ,,alcove ,,in ,,the ,,red ,,wall4 #bgj powell-canyons-#agj4;jpg ,,kanab ,,canyon1 ,,near ,,the ,,junction4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bga much1 being but #ae or #bj feet wide2 yet the walls rise on either side many hundreds of feet1 perhaps thousands2 ,i can hardly tell4 ,in some places the stream has not excavated its channel down vertically through the rocks1 but has cut obliquely1 so that one wall overhangs the other4 ,in other places it is cut vertically above and obliquely below1 or obliquely above and vertically below1 so that it is impossible to see out overhead4 ,but ,i can go no farther2 the time which ,i estimated it would take to make the portage has almost expired1 and ,i start back on a round trot1 wading in the creek where ,i must and plunging through basins4 ,the men are waiting for me1 and away we go on the river4 ,just after dinner we pass a stream on the right1 which leaps into' the ,colorado by a direct fall of more than #ajj feet1 forming a beautiful cascade4 ,there is a bed of very hard rock above1 #cj or #dj feet in thickness1 and there are much softer beds below4 ,the hard beds above project many yards beyond the softer1 which are washed out1 forming a deep cave behind the fall1 and the stream pours through a narrow crevice above into a deep pool below4 ,around on the rocks in the cavelike chamber are set beautiful ferns1 with delicate fronds and enameled stalks4 ,the frondlets have their points turned down to form spore cases4 ,it has very much the appearance of the maidenhair fern1 but is much larger4 ,this delicate foliage covers the rocks all about the fountain1 and gives the chamber great beauty4 ,but we have little time to spend in admiration2 so on we go4 ,we make fine progress this afternoon1 carried along by a swift river1 shooting over the rapids and finding no serious obstructions4 ,the canyon walls for #b1ejj or #c1jjj feet are very regular1 rising almost perpendicularly1 but here and there set with narrow steps1 and occasionally we can see away above the broad terrace to distant cliffs4 ,we camp to-night in a marble cave1 and find on looking at our reckoning that we have run #bb miles4 ,august #bd4--,the canyon is wider to-day4 ,the walls rise to a vertical height of nearly #c1jjj feet4 ,in many places the river runs under a cliff in great curves1 forming amphitheaters half-dome shaped4 ,though the river is rapid1 we meet with no serious obstructions and run #bj miles4 ,how anxious we are to make up our reckoning every time we stop1 now that our diet is confined to plenty of coffee1 a very #bgb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 little spoiled flour1 and very few dried apples6 ,it has come to be a race for a dinner4 ,still1 we make such fine progress that all hands are in good cheer1 but not a moment of daylight is lost4 ,august #be4--,we make #ab miles this morning1 when we come to monuments of lava standing in the river1--low rocks mostly1 but some of them shafts more than a hundred feet high4 ,going on down three or four miles1 we find them increasing in number4 ,great quantities of cooled lava and many cinder cones are seen on either side2 and then we come to an abrupt cataract4 ,just over the fall on the right wall a cinder cone1 or extinct volcano1 with a well-defined crater1 stands on the very brink of the canyon4 ,this1 doubtless1 is the one we saw two or three days ago4 ,from this volcano vast floods of lava have been poured down into the river1 and a stream of molten rock has run up the canyon three or four miles and down we know not how far4 ,just where it poured over the canyon wall is the fall4 ,the whole north side as far as we can see is lined with the black basalt1 and high up on the opposite wall are patches of the same material1 resting on the benches and filling old alcoves and caves1 giving the wall a spotted appearance4 ,the rocks are broken in two along a line which here crosses the river1 and the beds we have seen while coming down the canyon for the last #cj miles have dropped #hjj feet on the lower side of the line1 forming what geologists call a fault4 ,the volcanic cone stands directly over the fissure thus formed4 ,on the left side of the river1 opposite1 mammoth springs burst out of this crevice1 #ajj or #bjj feet above the river1 pouring in a stream quite equal in volume to the ,colorado ,chiquito4 ,this stream seems to be loaded with carbonate of lime1 and the water1 evaporating1 leaves an incrustation on the rocks2 and this process has been continued for a long time1 for extensive deposits are noticed in which are basins with bubbling springs4 ,the water is salty4 ,we have to make a portage here1 which is completed in about three hours2 then on we go4 ,we have no difficulty as we float along1 and ,i am able to observe the wonderful phenomena connected with this flood of lava4 ,the canyon was doubtless filled to a height of #a1bjj or #a1ejj feet1 perhaps by more than one flood4 ,this would dam the water back2 and in cutting through this great lava bed1 a new channel has been formed1 sometimes on one #bgc powell-canyons-#aga4;jpg ,,kanab ,,canyon1 ,,in ,,the ,,red ,,wall ,,limestone4 #bgd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 side1 sometimes on the other4 ,the cooled lava1 being of firmer texture than the rocks of which the walls are composed1 remains in some places2 in others a narrow channel has been cut1 leaving a line of basalt on either side4 ,it is possible that the lava cooled faster on the sides against the walls and that the center ran out2 but of this we can only conjecture4 ,there are other places where almost the whole of the lava is gone1 only patches of it being seen1 where it has caught on the walls4 ,as we float down we can see that it ran out into side canyons4 ,in some places this basalt has a fine1 columnar structure1 often in concentric prisms1 and masses of these concentric columns have coalesced4 ,in some places1 when the flow occurred the canyon was probably about the same depth that it is now1 for we can see where the basalt has rolled out on the sands1 and--what seems curious to me--the sands are not melted or metamorphosed to any appreciable extent4 ,in places the bed of the river is of sandstone or limestone1 in other places of lava1 showing that it has all been cut out again where the sandstones and limestones appear2 but there is a little yet left where the bed is of lava4 ,what a conflict of water and fire there must have been here6 ,just imagine a river of molten rock running down into a river of melted snow4 ,what a seething and boiling of the waters2 what clouds of steam rolled into the heavens6 ,thirty-five miles to-day4 ,hurrah6 ,august #bf4--,the canyon walls are steadily becoming higher as we advance4 ,they are still bold and nearly vertical up to the terrace4 ,we still see evidence of the eruption discovered yesterday1 but the thickness of the basalt is decreasing as we go down stream2 yet it has been reinforced at points by streams that have come down from volcanoes standing on the terrace above1 but which we cannot see from the river below4 ,since we left the ,colorado ,chiquito we have seen no evidences that the tribe of ,indians inhabiting the plateaus on either side ever come down to the river2 but about eleven o'clock to-day we discover an ,indian garden at the foot of the wall on the right1 just where a little stream with a narrow flood plain comes down through a side canyon4 ,along the valley the ,indians have planted corn1 using for irrigation the water which bursts out in springs at the foot of the cliff4 ,the corn is looking quite ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bge well1 but it is not sufficiently advanced to give us roasting ears2 but there are some nice green squashes4 ,we carry ten or a dozen of these on board our boats and hurriedly leave1 not willing to be caught in the robbery1 yet excusing ourselves by pleading our great want4 ,we run down a short distance to where we feel certain no ,indian can follow1 and what a kettle of squash sauce we make6 ,true1 we have no salt with which to season it1 but it makes a fine addition to our unleavened bread and coffee4 ,never was fruit so sweet as these stolen squashes4 ,after dinner we push on again and make fine time1 finding many rapids1 but none so bad that we cannot run them with safety2 and when we stop1 just at dusk1 and foot up our reckoning1 we find we have run #ce miles again4 ,a few days like this1 and we are out of prison4 ,we have a royal supper--unleavened bread1 green squash sauce1 and strong coffee4 ,we have been for a few days on half rations1 but now have no stint of roast squash4 powell-canyons-#agb4;jpg ,,the ,,brink ,,of ,,the ,,inner ,,gorge4 #bgf powell-canyons-#agc4;jpg ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon ,,of ,,the ,,colorado1 ,,showing ,,amphitheater ,,and ,,sculptured ,,buttes4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bgg ,august #bg4--,this morning the river takes a more southerly direction4 ,the dip of the rocks is to the north and we are running rapidly into lower formations4 ,unless our course changes we shall very soon run again into the granite4 ,this gives some anxiety4 ,now and then the river turns to the west and excites hopes that are soon destroyed by another turn to the south4 ,about nine o'clock we come to the dreaded rock4 ,it is with no little misgiving that we see the river enter these black1 hard walls4 ,at its very entrance we have to make a portage2 then let down with lines past some ugly rocks4 ,we run a mile or two farther1 and then the rapids below can be seen4 ,about eleven o'clock we come to a place in the river which seems much worse than any we have yet met in all its course4 ,a little creek comes down from the left4 ,we land first on the right and clamber up over the granite pinnacles for a mile or two1 but can see no way by which to let down1 and to run it would be sure destruction4 ,after dinner we cross to examine on the left4 ,high above the river we can walk along on the top of the granite1 which is broken off at the edge and set with crags and pinnacles1 so that it is very difficult to get a view of the river at all4 ,in my eagerness to reach a point where ,i can see the roaring fall below1 ,i go too far on the wall1 and can neither advance nor retreat4 ,i stand with one foot on a little projecting rock and cling with my hand fixed in a little crevice4 ,finding ,i am caught here1 suspended #djj feet above the river1 into which ,i must fall if my footing fails1 ,i call for help4 ,the men come and pass me a line1 but ,i cannot let go of the rock long enough to take hold of it4 ,then they bring two or three of the largest oars4 ,all this takes time which seems very precious to me2 but at last they arrive4 ,the blade of one of the oars is pushed into a little crevice in the rock beyond me in such a manner that they can hold me pressed against the wall4 ,then another is fixed in such a way that ,i can step on it2 and thus ,i am extricated4 ,still another hour is spent in examining the river from this side1 but no good view of it is obtained2 so now we return to the side that was first examined1 and the afternoon is spent in clambering among the crags and pinnacles and carefully scanning the river again4 ,we find that the lateral streams have washed boulders into the river1 so as to form a dam1 over which the water makes a broken fall of #ah or #bj feet2 then there is #bgh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 a rapid1 beset with rocks1 for #bjj or #cjj yards1 while on the other side1 points of the wall project into the river4 ,below1 there is a second fall2 how great1 we cannot tell4 ,then there is a rapid1 filled with huge rocks1 for #ajj or #bjj yards4 ,at the bottom of it1 from the right wall1 a great rock projects quite halfway across the river4 ,it has a sloping surface extending up stream1 and the water1 coming down with all the momentum gained in the falls and rapids above1 rolls up this inclined plane many feet1 and tumbles over to the left4 ,i decide that it is possible to let down over the first fall1 then run near the right cliff to a point just above the second1 where we can pull out into a little chute1 and1 having run over that in safety1 if we pull with all our power across the stream1 we may avoid the great rock below4 ,on my return to the boat ,i announce to the men that we are to run it in the morning4 ,then we cross the river and go into camp for the night on some rocks in the mouth of the little side canyon4 ,after supper ,captain ,howland asks to have a talk with me4 ,we walk up the little creek a short distance1 and ,i soon find that his object is to remonstrate against my determination to proceed4 ,he thinks that we had better abandon the river here4 ,talking with him1 ,i learn that he1 his brother1 and ,william ,dunn have determined to go no farther in the boats4 ,so we return to camp4 ,nothing is said to the other men4 ,for the last two days our course has not been plotted4 ,i sit down and do this now1 for the purpose of finding where we are by dead reckoning4 ,it is a clear night1 and ,i take out the sextant to make observation for latitude1 and ,i find that the astronomic determination agrees very nearly with that of the plot--quite as closely as might be expected from a meridian observation on a planet4 ,in a direct line1 we must be about #de miles from the mouth of the ,rio ,virgen4 ,if we can reach that point1 we know that there are settlements up that river about #bj miles4 ,this #de miles in a direct line will probably be #hj or #ij by the meandering line of the river4 ,but then we know that there is comparatively open country for many miles above the mouth of the ,virgen1 which is our point of destination4 ,as soon as ,i determine all this1 ,i spread my plot on the sand and wake ,howland1 who is sleeping down by the river1 and show him where ,i suppose we are1 and where several ,mormon settlements are situated4 ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bgi ,we have another short talk about the morrow1 and he lies down again2 but for me there is no sleep4 ,all night long ,i pace up and down a little path1 on a few yards of sand beach1 along by the river4 ,is it wise to go on8 ,i go to the boats again to look at our rations4 ,i feel satisfied that we can get over the danger immediately before us2 what there may be below ,i know not4 ,from our outlook yesterday on the cliffs1 the canyon seemed to make another great bend to the south1 and this1 from our experience heretofore1 means more and higher granite walls4 ,i am not sure that we can climb out of the canyon here1 and1 if at the top of the wall1 ,i know enough of the country to be certain that it is a desert of rock and sand between this and the nearest ,mormon town1 which1 on the most direct line1 must be #ge miles away4 ,true1 the late rains have been favorable to us1 should we go out1 for the probabilities are that we shall find water still standing in holes2 and at one time ,i almost conclude to leave the river4 ,but for years ,i have powell-canyons-#agd4;jpg ,,climbing ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon ,,wall4 #bhj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 been contemplating this trip4 ,to leave the exploration unfinished1 to say that there is a part of the canyon which ,i cannot explore1 having already nearly accomplished it1 is more than ,i am willing to acknowledge1 and ,i determine to go on4 ,i wake my brother and tell him of ,howland's determination1 and he promises to stay with me2 then ,i call up ,hawkins1 the cook1 and he makes a like promise2 then ,sumner and ,bradley and ,hall1 and they all agree to go on4 ,august #bh4--;,at last daylight comes and we have breakfast without a word being said about the future4 ,the meal is as solemn as a funeral4 ,after breakfast ,i ask the three men if they still think it best to leave us4 ,the elder ,howland thinks it is1 and ,dunn agrees with him4 ,the younger ,howland tries to persuade them to go on with the party2 failing in which1 he decides to go with his brother4 ,then we cross the river4 ,the small boat is very much disabled and unseaworthy4 ,with the loss of hands1 consequent on the departure of the three men1 we shall not be able to run all of the boats2 so ,i decide to leave my ,emma ,dean4 ,two rifles and a shotgun are given to the men who are going out4 ,i ask them to help themselves to the rations and take what they think to be a fair share4 ,this they refuse to do1 saying they have no fear but that they can get something to eat2 but ,billy1 the cook1 has a pan of biscuits prepared for dinner1 and these he leaves on a rock4 ,before starting1 we take from the boat our barometers1 fossils1 the minerals1 and some ammunition and leave them on the rocks4 ,we are going over this place as light as possible4 ,the three men help us lift our boats over a rock #be or #cj feet high and let them down again over the first fall1 and now we are all ready to start4 ,the last thing before leaving1 ,i write a letter to my wife and give it to ,howland4 ,sumner gives him his watch1 directing that it be sent to his sister should he not be heard from again4 ,the records of the expedition have been kept in duplicate4 ,one set of these is given to ,howland2 and now we are ready4 ,for the last time they entreat us not to go on1 and tell us that it is madness to set out in this place2 that we can never get safely through it2 and1 further1 that the river turns again to the south into the granite1 and a few miles of such rapids and falls will exhaust our entire stock of rations1 and then ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bha it will be too late to climb out4 ,some tears are shed2 it is rather a solemn parting2 each party thinks the other is taking the dangerous course4 ,my old boat left1 ,i go on board of the ,maid of the ,canyon4 ,the three men climb a crag that overhangs the river to watch us off4 ,the ,maid of the ,canyon pushes out4 ,we glide rapidly along the foot of the wall1 just grazing one great rock1 then pull out a little into the chute of the second fall and plunge over it4 ,the open compartment is filled when we strike the first wave below1 but we cut through it1 and then the men pull with all their power toward the left wall and swing clear of the dangerous rock below all right4 ,we are scarcely a minute in running it1 and find that1 although it looked bad from above1 we have passed many places that were worse4 ,the other boat follows without more difficulty4 ,we land at the first powell-canyons-#age4;jpg ,,triangulation ,,station4 #bhb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 practicable point below1 and fire our guns1 as a signal to the men above that we have come over in safety4 ,here we remain a couple of hours1 hoping that they will take the smaller boat and follow us4 ,we are behind a curve in the canyon and cannot see up to where we left them1 and so we wait until their coming seems hopeless1 and then push on4 ,and now we have a succession of rapids and falls until noon1 all of which we run in safety4 ,just after dinner we come to another bad place4 ,a little stream comes in from the left1 and below there is a fall1 and still below another fall4 ,above1 the river tumbles down1 over and among the rocks1 in whirlpools and great waves1 and the waters are lashed into mad1 white foam4 ,we run along the left1 above this1 and soon see that we cannot get down on this side1 but it seems possible to let down on the other4 ,we pull up stream again for #bjj or #cjj yards and cross4 ,now there is a bed of basalt on this northern side of the canyon1 with a bold escarpment that seems to be a hundred feet high4 ,we can climb it and walk along its summit to a point where we are just at the head of the fall4 ,here the basalt is broken down again1 so it seems to us1 and ,i direct the men to take a line to the top of the cliff and let the boats down along the wall4 ,one man remains in the boat to keep her clear of the rocks and prevent her line from being caught on the projecting angles4 ,i climb the cliff and pass along to a point just over the fall and descend by broken rocks1 and find that the break of the fall is above the break of the wall1 so that we cannot land1 and that still below the river is very bad1 and that there is no possibility of a portage4 ,without waiting further to examine and determine what shall be done1 ,i hasten back to the top of the cliff to stop the boats from coming down4 ,when ,i arrive ,i find the men have let one of them down to the head of the fall4 ,she is in swift water and they are not able to pull her back2 nor are they able to go on with the line1 as it is not long enough to reach the higher part of the cliff which is just before them2 so they take a bight around a crag4 ,i send two men back for the other line4 ,the boat is in very swift water1 and ,bradley is standing in the open compartment1 holding out his oar to prevent her from striking against the foot of the cliff4 ,now she shoots out into the stream and up as far as the line will permit1 and then1 wheeling1 drives headlong against the rock1 and then out and back again1 now straining ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bhc on the line1 now striking against the rock4 ,as soon as the second line is brought1 we pass it down to him2 but his attention is all taken up with his own situation1 and he does not see that we are passing him the line4 ,i stand on a projecting rock1 waving my hat to gain his attention1 for my voice is drowned by the roaring of the falls4 ,just at this moment ,i see him take his knife from its sheath and step forward to cut the line4 ,he has evidently decided that it is better to go over with the boat as it is than to wait for her to be broken to pieces4 ,as he leans over1 the boat sheers again into the stream1 the stem-post breaks away and she is loose4 ,with perfect composure ,bradley seizes the great scull oar1 places it in the stern rowlock1 and pulls with all his power 7and he is an athlete7 to turn the bow of the boat down stream1 for he wishes to go bow down1 rather than to drift broadside on4 ,one1 two strokes he makes1 and a third just as she goes over1 and the boat is fairly turned1 and she goes down almost beyond our sight1 though we are more than a hundred feet above the river4 ,then she comes up again on a great wave1 and down and up1 then around behind some great rocks1 and is lost in the mad1 white foam below4 ,we stand frozen with fear1 for we see no boat4 ,bradley is gone6 so it seems4 ,but now1 away below1 we see something coming out of the waves4 ,it is evi- powell-canyons-#agf4;jpg ,,cavate ,,houses #bhd ,,cantons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 dently a boat4 ,a moment more1 and we see ,bradley standing on deck1 swinging his hat to show that he is all right4 ,but he is in a whirlpool4 ,we have the stem-post of his boat attached to the line4 ,how badly she may be disabled we know not4 ,i direct ,sumner and ,powell to pass along the cliff and see if they can reach him from below4 ,hawkins1 ,hall1 and myself run to the other boat1 jump aboard1 push out1 and away we go over the falls4 ,a wave rolls over us and our boat is unmanageable4 ,another great wave strikes us1 and the boat rolls over1 and tumbles and tosses1 ,i know not how4 ,all ,i know is that ,bradley is picking us up4 ,we soon have all right again1 and row to the cliff and wait until ,sumner and ,powell can come4 ,after a difficult climb they reach us4 ,we run two or three miles farther and turn again to the northwest1 continuing until night1 when we have run out of the granite once more4 ,august #bi4--,we start very early this morning4 ,the river still continues swift1 but we have no serious difficulty1 and at twelve o'clock emerge from the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado4 ,we are in a valley now1 and low mountains are seen in the distance1 coming to the river below4 ,we recognize this as the ,grand ,wash4 ,a few years ago a party of ,mormons set out from ,st4 ,george1 ,utah1 taking with them a boat1 and came down to the ,grand ,wash1 where they divided1 a portion of the party crossing the river to explore the ,san ,francisco ,mountains4 ,three men--,hamblin1 ,miller1 and ,crosby--taking the boat1 went on down the river to ,callville1 landing a few miles below the mouth of the ,rio ,virgen4 ,we have their manuscript journal with us1 and so the stream is comparatively well known4 ,to-night we camp on the left bank1 in a mesquite thicket4 ,the relief from danger and the joy of success are great4 ,when he who has been chained by wounds to a hospital cot until his canvas tent seems like a dungeon cell1 until the groans of those who lie about tortured with probe and knife are piled up1 a weight of horror on his ears that he cannot throw off1 cannot forget1 and until the stench of festering wounds and anaesthetic drugs has filled the air with its loathsome burthen1--when he at last goes out into the open field1 what a world he sees6 ,how beautiful the sky1 how bright the sunshine1 what floods of delirious music pour from the throats of birds1 how sweet the fragrance ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #bhe of earth and tree and blossom6 ,the first hour of convalescent freedom seems rich recompense for all pain and gloom and terror4 ,something like these are the feelings we experience to-night4 ,ever before us has been an unknown danger1 heavier than immediate peril4 ,every waking hour passed in the ,grand ,canyon has been one of toil4 ,we have watched with deep solicitude the steady disappearance of our scant supply of rations1 and from time to time have seen the river snatch a portion of the little left1 while we were a-hungered4 ,and danger and toil were endured in those gloomy depths1 where ofttimes clouds hid the sky by day and but a narrow zone of stars could be seen at night4 ,only during the few hours of deep sleep1 consequent on hard labor1 has the roar of the waters been hushed4 ,now the danger is over1 now the toil has ceased1 now the gloom has disappeared1 now the firmament is bounded only by the horizon1 and what a vast expanse of constellations can be seen6 ,the river rolls by us in silent majesty2 the quiet of the camp is sweet2 our joy is almost ecstasy4 ,we sit till long after midnight talking of the ,grand ,canyon1 talking of home1 but talking chiefly of the three men who left us4 ,are they wandering in those depths1 unable to find a way out8 ,are they searching over the desert lands above for water8 ,or are they nearing the settlements8 ,august #cj4--,we run in two or three short1 low canyons to-day1 and on emerging from one we discover a band of ,indians in the valley below4 ,they see us1 and scamper away in eager haste to hide among the rocks4 ,although we land and call for them to return1 not an ,indian can be seen4 powell-canyons-#agg4;jpg ,,standing ,,bocks4 #bhf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,two or three miles farther down1 in turning a short bend of the river1 we come upon another camp4 ,so near are we before they can see us that ,i can shout to them1 and1 being able to speak a little of their language1 ,i tell them we are friends2 but they all flee to the rocks1 except a man1 a woman1 and two children4 ,we land and talk with them4 ,they are without lodges1 but have built little shelters of boughs1 under which' they wallow in the sand4 ,the man is dressed in a hat2 the woman1 in a string of beads only4 ,at first they are evidently much terrified2 but when ,i talk to them in their own language and tell them we are friends1 and inquire after people in the ,mormon towns1 they are soon reassured and beg for tobacco4 ,of this precious article we have none to spare4 ,sumner looks around in the boat for something to give them1 and finds a little piece of colored soap1 which they receive as a valuable present1--rather as a thing of beauty than as a useful commodity1 however4 ,they are either unwilling or unable to tell us anything about the ,indians or white people1 and so we push off1 for we must lose no time4 ,we camp at noon under the right bank4 ,and now as we push out we are in great expectancy1 for we hope every minute to discover the mouth of the ,rio ,virgen4 ,soon one of the men exclaims3 ,yonder's an ,indian in the river4 ,looking for a few minutes1 we certainly do see two or three persons4 ,the men bend to their oars and pull toward them4 ,approaching1 we see that there are three white men and an ,indian hauling a seine1 and then we discover that it is just at the mouth of the long-sought river4 ,as we come near1 the men seem far less surprised to see us than we do to see them4 ,they evidently know who we are1 and on talking with them they tell us that we have been reported lost long ago1 and that some weeks before a messenger had been sent from ,salt ,lake ,city with instructions for them to watch for any fragments or relics of our party that might drift down the stream4 ,our new-found friends1 ,mr4 ,asa and his two sons1 tell us that they are pioneers of a town that is to be built on the bank4 ,eighteen or twenty miles up the valley of the ,rio ,virgen there are two ,mormon towns1 ,st4 ,joseph and ,st4 ,thomas4 ,to-night we dispatch an ,indian to the last-mentioned place to bring any letters that may be there for us4 ,our arrival here is very opportune4 ,when we look over our store of ,,to ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canton4 #bhg supplies1 we find about #aj pounds of flour1 #ae pounds of dried apples1 but #gj or #hj pounds of coffee4 ,august #ca4--,this afternoon the ,indian returns with a letter informing us that ,bishop ,leithhead of ,st4 ,thomas and two or three other ,mormons are coming down with a wagon1 bringing us supplies4 ,they arrive about sundown4 ,mr4 ,asa treats us with great kindness to the extent of his ability2 but ,bishop ,leithhead brings in his wagon two or three dozen melons and many other little luxuries1 and we are comfortable once more4 ,september #a4--,this morning ,sumner1 ,bradley1 ,hawkins1 and ,hall1 taking on a small supply of rations1 start down the ,colorado with the boats4 ,it is their intention to go to ,fort ,mojave1 and perhaps from there overland to ,los ,angeles4 ,captain ,powell and myself return with ,bishop ,leithhead to ,st4 ,thomas4 ,from ,st4 ,thomas we go to ,salt ,lake ,city4 powell-canyons-#agh4;jpg #bhh powell-canyons-#agi4;jpg ,,mount ,,trumbull1 ,,from ,,mount ,,logan4 #bhi ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 ,a ,,year has passed1 and we have determined to resume the exploration of the canyons of the ,colorado4 ,our last trip was so hurried1 owing to the loss of rations1 and the scientific instruments were so badly injured1 that we are not satisfied with the results obtained2 so we shall once more attempt to pass through the canyons in boats1 devoting two or three years to the trip4 ,it will not be possible to carry in the boats sufficient supplies for the party for that length of time2 so it is thought best to establish depots of supplies1 at intervals of #ajj or #bjj miles along the river4 ,between ,gunnison's ,crossing and the foot of the ,grand ,canyon1 we know of only two points where the river can be reached--one at the ,crossing of the ,fathers1 and another a few miles below1 at the mouth of the ,paria1 on a route which has been explored by ,jacob ,hamblin1 a ,mormon missionary4 ,these two points are so near each other that only one of them can be selected for the purpose above mentioned1 and others must be found4 ,we have been unable up to this time to obtain1 either from ,indians or white men1 any information which will give us a clue to any other trail to the river4 ,at the headwaters of the ,sevier1 we are on the summit of a great watershed4 ,the ,sevier itself flows north and then westward into the lake of the same name4 ,the ,rio ,virgen1 heading near by1 flows to the southwest into the ,colorado1 #fj or #gj miles below the ,grand ,canyon4 ,the ,kanab1 also heading near by1 runs directly south into the very heart of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,the ,paria1 likewise heading near by1 runs a little south of east and enters the river at the head of ,marble ,canyon4 ,to the northeast from this point1 other streams which run into the ,colorado have their sources1 until1 #dj or #ej miles away1 we reach the #bij ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 southern branches of the ,dirty ,devil ,river1 the mouth of which stream is but a short distance below the junction of the ,grand and ,green4 ,the ,paunsa'gunt ,plateau terminates in a point1 which is bounded by a line of beautiful pink cliffs4 ,at the foot of this plateau1 on the west1 the ,rio ,virgen and ,sevier ,river are dovetailed together1 as their minute upper branches interlock4 ,the upper surface of the plateau inclines to the northeast1 so that its waters roll off into the ,sevier2 but from the foot of the cliffs1 quite around the sharp angle of the plateau1 for a dozen miles1 we find numerous springs1 whose waters unite to form the ,kanab4 ,a little farther to the northeast the springs gather into streams that feed the ,paria4 ,here1 by the upper springs of the ,kanab1 we make a camp1 and from this point we are to radiate on a series of trips1 southwest1 south1 and east4 ,jacob ,hamblin1 who has been a missionary among the ,indians for more than twenty years1 has collected a number of ,kai'vavits1 with ,chuar'-ruumpeak1 their chief1 and they are all camped with us4 ,they assure us that we cannot reach the river1 that we cannot make our way into the depths of the canyon1 but promise to show us the springs and water pockets1 which are very scarce in all powell-canyons-#ahj4;jpg ,,mary',s ,,veil2 ,,the ,,upper ,,fall ,,on ,,pine ,,creek1 ,a ,,small ,,tributary ,,of ,,the ,,sevier4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #bia this region1 and to give us all the information in their power4 ,here we fit up a pack train1 for our bedding and instruments and supplies are to be carried on the backs of mules and ponies4 ,september #e1 #ahgj4--,the several members of the party are engaged in general preparation for our trip down to the ,grand ,canyon4 ,taking with me a white man and an ,indian1 ,i start on a climb to the summit of the ,paunsa'gunt ,plateau1 which rises above us on the east4 ,our way for a mile or more is over a great peat bog1 which trembles under our feet1 and now and then a mule sinks through the broken turf and we are compelled to pull it out with ropes4 ,passing the bog1 our way is up a gulch at the foot of the ,pink ,cliffs1 which form the escarpment1 or wall1 of the great plateau4 ,soon we leave the gulch and climb a long ridge which winds around to the right toward the summit of the great table4 ,two hours' riding1 climbing1 and clambering bring us near the top4 ,we look below and see clouds drifting up from the south and rolling tumultuously toward the foot of the cliffs beneath us4 ,soon all the country below is covered with a sea of vapor--a billowy1 raging1 noiseless sea--and as the vapory flood still rolls up from the south1 great waves dash against the powell-canyons-#aha4;jpg ,,pilling ,,cascade1 ,,the ,,lower ,,falls ,,on ,,pine ,,ceeek4 #bib ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#ahb4;jpg ,,aboriginal ,,ladder4 foot of the cliffs and roll back2 another tide comes in1 is hurled back1 and another and another1 lashing the cliffs until the fog rises to the summit and covers us all4 ,there is a heavy pine and fir forest above1 beset with dead and fallen timber1 and we make our way through the undergrowth to the east4 ,it rains4 ,the clouds discharge their moisture in torrents1 and we make for ourselves shelters of boughs1 only to be soon abandoned1 and we stand shivering by a great fire of pine logs and boughs1 which the pelting storm half extinguishes4 ,one1 two1 three1 four hours of the storm1 and at last it partially abates4 ,during this time our animals1 which we have turned loose1 have sought for themselves shelter under the trees1 and two of them have wandered away beyond our sight4 ,i go out to follow their tracks1 and come near to the brink of a ledge of rocks1 which1 in the fog and mist1 ,i suppose to be a little ridge1 and ,i look for a way by which ,i can go down4 ,standing just here1 there is a rift made in the fog below by some current or blast of wind1 which reveals an almost bottomless abyss4 ,i look from the brink of a great precipice of more than #b1jjj feet2 but through the mist the forms are half obscured and all reckoning of distance is lost1 and it seems #aj1jjj feet1 ten miles--any distance the imagination desires to make it4 ,catching our animals1 we return to the camp4 ,we find that the little streams which come down from the plateau are greatly swollen1 but at camp they have had no rain4 ,the clouds which drifted up from the south1 striking against the plateau1 were lifted up into colder regions and discharged their moisture on the summit and against the sides of the plateau1 but there was no rain in the valley below4 ,september #i4--,we make a fair start this morning from the beautiful meadow at the head of the ,kanab1 cross the line of little hills at the headwaters of the ,rio ,virgen1 and pass1 to the south1 a pretty valley4 ,at ten o'clock we come to the brink of a great geographic bench--a line of ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #bic cliffs4 ,behind us are cool springs1 green meadows1 and forest-clad slopes2 below us1 stretching to the south until the world is lost in blue haze1 is a painted desert--not a desert plain1 but a desert of rocks cut by deep gorges and relieved by towering cliffs and pinnacled rocks--naked rocks1 brilliant in the sunlight4 ,by a difficult trail we make our way down the basaltic ledge1 through which innumerable streams here gather into a little river running in a deep canyon4 ,the river runs close to the foot of the cliffs on the right-hand side and the trail passes along to the right4 ,at noon we rest and our animals feed on luxuriant grass4 ,again we start and make slow progress along a stony way4 ,at night we camp under an overarching cliff4 ,september #aj4--;,here the river turns to the west1 and our way1 properly1 is to the south2 but we wish to explore the ,rio ,virgen as far as possible4 ,the ,indians tell us that the canyon narrows gradually a few miles below and that it will be impossible to take our animals much farther down the river4 ,early in the morning ,i go down to examine the head of this narrow part4 ,after breakfast1 having concluded to explore the canyon for a few miles on foot1 we arrange that the main party shall climb the cliff and go around to a point #ah or #bj miles below1 where1 the ,indians say1 the animals can be taken down by the river1 and three of us set out on1 foot4 ,the ,indian name of the canyon is ,paru'nuweap1 or ,roaring ,water ,canyon4 ,between the little river and the foot of the walls is a dense growth of willows1 vines1 and wild rosebushes1 and with great difficulty we make our way through this tangled mass4 ,it is not a wide stream--only #bj or #cj feet across in most places2 shallow1 but very swift4 ,after spending some hours in breaking our way through the mass of vegetation and climbing rocks here and there1 it is determined to wade along the stream4 ,in some places this is an easy task1 but here and there we come to deep holes where we have to wade to our armpits4 ,soon we come to places so narrow powell-canyons-#ahc4;jpg ,,another ,,style ,,of ,,ladder4 #bid ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 that the river fills the entire channel and we wade perforce4 ,in many places the bottom is a quicksand1 into which we sink1 and it is with great difficulty that we make progress4 ,in some places the holes are so deep that we have to swim1 and our little bundles of blankets and rations are fixed to a raft made of driftwood and pushed before us4 ,now and then there is a little flood-plain1 on which we can walk1 and we cross and recross the stream and wade along the channel where the water is so swift as almost to carry us off our feet and we are in danger every moment of being swept down1 until night comes on4 ,finding a little patch of flood-plain1 on which there is a huge pile of driftwood and a clump of box-elders1 and near by a mammoth stream bursting from the rocks1 we soon have a huge fire4 ,our clothes are spread to dry2 we make a cup of coffee1 take out our bread and cheese and dried beef1 and enjoy a hearty supper4 ,we estimate that we have traveled eight miles to-day4 ,the canyon here is about #a1bjj feet deep4 ,it has been very narrow and winding all the way down to this point4 ,september #aa4--,wading again this morning2 sinking in the quicksand1 swimming the deep waters1 and making slow and painful progress where the waters are swift and the bed of the stream rocky4 ,the canyon is steadily becoming deeper and in many places very narrow--only #bj or #cj feet wide below1 and in some places no wider1 and even narrower1 for hundreds of feet overhead4 ,there are places where the river in sweeping by curves has cut far under the rocks1 but still preserves its narrow channel1 so that there is an overhanging wall on one side and an inclined wall on the other4 ,in places a few hundred feet above1 it becomes vertical again1 and thus the view to the sky is entirely closed4 ,everywhere this deep passage is dark and gloomy and resounds with the noise of rapid waters4 ,at noon we are in a canyon #b1ejj feet deep1 and we come to a fall where the walls are broken down and huge rocks beset the channel1 on which we obtain a foothold to reach a level #bjj feet below4 ,here the canyon is again wider1 and we find a flood-plain along which we can walk1 now on this1 and now on that side of the stream4 ,gradually the canyon widens2 steep rapids1 cascades1 and cataracts are found along the river1 but we wade only when it is necessary to cross4 ,we make progress with very great labor1 having to climb over piles of broken rocks4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #bie ,late in the afternoon we come to a little clearing in the valley and see other signs of civilization and by sundown arrive at the ,mormon town powell-canyons-#ahd4;jpg ,,entrance ,,to ,,paru',,nuweap4 of ,schunesburg2 and here we meet the train1 and feast on melons and grapes4 ,september #ab4--,our course for the last two days1 through ,paru'nuweap ,canyon1 was directly to the west4 ,another stream comes down from the north and unites just here at ,schunesburg with the main branch of the ,rio ,virgen4 ,we determine to spend a day in the exploration of this stream4 ,the ,indians call the canyon through which it runs1 ,mukun'tu-weap1 or ,straight1 ,canyon4 ,entering this1 we have to wade upstream2 often the water fills the entire channel and1 although we travel many #bif ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 miles1 we find no flood-plain1 talus1 or broken piles of rock at the foot of the cliff4 ,the walls have smooth1 plain faces and are everywhere very regular and vertical for a thousand feet or more1 where they seem to break back in shelving slopes to higher altitudes2 and everywhere1 as we go along1 we find springs bursting out at the foot of the walls1 and passing these the river above becomes steadily smaller4 ,the great body of water which runs below bursts out from beneath this great bed of red sandstone2 as we go up the canyon1 it comes to be but a creek1 and then a brook4 ,on the western wall of the canyon stand some buttes1 powell-canyons-#ahe4;jpg ,,towers ,,on ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen4 towers1 and high pinnacled rocks4 ,going up the canyon1 we gain glimpses of them1 here and there4 ,last summer1 after our trip through ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #big the canyons of the ,colorado1 on our way from the mouth of the ,virgen to ,salt ,lake ,city1 these were seen as conspicuous landmarks from a distance away to the southwest of #fj or #gj miles4 ,these tower rocks are known as the ,temples of the ,virgen4 ,having explored this canyon nearly to its head1 we return to ,schunesburg1 arriving quite late at night4 ,sitting in camp this evening1 ,chuar'ruumpeak1 the chief of the ,kai'vavits1 who is one of our party1 tells us there is a tradition among the tribes of this country that many years ago a great light was seen somewhere in this region by the ,paru'shapats1 who lived to the southwest1 and that they supposed it to be a signal kindled to warn them of the approach of the ,navajos1 who lived beyond the ,colorado ,river to the east4 ,then other signal fires were kindled on the ,pine ,valley ,mountains1 ,santa ,clara ,mountains1 and ,uinkaret ,mountains1 so that all the tribes of northern ,arizona1 southern ,utah1 southern ,nevada1 and southern ,california were warned of the approaching danger2 but when the ,paru'shapats came nearer1 they discovered that it was a fire on one of the great temples2 and then they knew that the fire was not kindled by men1 for no human being could scale the rocks4 ,the ,tu'muurrugwait'sigaip1 or ,rock ,rovers1 had kindled a fire to deceive the people4 ,so1 in the ,indian language this is called ,tu'muurruwait'sigaip ,tuweap'1 or ,rock ,rovers' ,land4 ,september #ac4--,we start very early this morning1 for we have a long day's travel before us4 ,our way is across the ,rio ,virgen to the south4 ,coming to the bank of the stream here1 we find a strange metamorphosis4 ,the streams we have seen above1 running in narrow channels1 leaping and plunging over the rocks1 raging and roaring in their course1 are here united and spread in a thin sheet several hundred yards wide and only a few inches deep1 but running over a bed of quicksand4 ,crossing the stream1 our trail leads up a narrow canyon1 not very deep1 and then among the hills of golden1 red1 and purple shales and marls4 ,climbing out of the valley of the ,rio ,virgen1 we pass through a forest of dwarf cedars and come out at the foot of the ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,all day we follow this ,indian trail toward the east1 and at night camp at a great spring1 known to the ,indians as ,yellow ,rock ,spring1 but to the ,mormons as ,pipe ,spring2 and near by there is a cabin in which some ,mormon #bih ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 herders find shelter4 ,pipe ,spring is a point just across the ,utah line in ,arizona1 and we suppose it to be about #fj miles from the river4 ,here powell-canyons-#ahf4;jpg ,,mukun',,tuweap ,,canyon4 the ,mormons design to build a fort another year1 as an outpost for protection against the ,indians4 ,we now discharge a number of the ,indians1 but take two with us for ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #bii the purpose of showing us the springs1 for they are very scarce1 very small1 and not easily found4 ,half a dozen are not known in a district of country large enough to make as many good-sized counties in ,illinois4 ,there are no running streams1 and these springs and water pockets are our sole dependence4 ,starting1 we leave behind a long line of cliffs1 many hundred feet high1 composed of orange and vermilion sandstones4 ,i have named them ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,when we are out a few miles1 ,i look back and see the morning sun shining in splendor on their painted faces2 the salient angles are on fire1 and the retreating angles are buried in shade1 and ,i gaze on them until my vision dreams and the cliffs appear a long bank of purple clouds piled from the horizon high into the heavens4 ,at noon we pass along a ledge of chocolate cliffs1 and1 taking out our sandwiches1 we make a dinner as we ride along4 ,yesterday our ,indians discussed for hours the route which we should take4 ,there is one way1 farther by #aj or #ab miles1 with sure water2 another1 shorter1 where water is found sometimes2 their conclusion was that water would be found now2 and this is the way we go1 yet all day long we are anxious about it4 ,to be out two days with only the water that can be carried in two small kegs is to have our animals suffer greatly4 ,at five o'clock we come to the spot1 and there is a huge water pocket containing several barrels4 ,what a relief6 ,here we camp for the night4 ,september #ae4--,up at daybreak1 for it is a long day's march to the next water4 ,they say we must run very hard to reach it by dark4 ,our course is to the south4 ,from ,pipe ,spring we can see a mountain1 and ,i recognize it as the one seen last summer from a cliff overlooking the ,grand ,canyon2 and ,i wish to reach the river just behind the mountain4 ,there are ,indians living in the group1 of which it is the highest1 whom ,i wish to visit on the way4 ,these mountains are of volcanic origin1 and we soon come to ground that is covered with fragments of lava4 ,the way becomes very difficult4 ,we have to cross deep ravines1 the heads of canyons that run into the ,grand ,canyon4 ,it is curious now to observe the knowledge of our ,indians4 ,there is not a trail but what they know2 every gulch and every rock seems familiar4 ,i have prided myself on being able to grasp and retain in my mind the topog- #cjj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 raphy of a country2 but these ,indians put me to shame4 ,my knowledge is only general1 embracing the more important features of a region that remains as a map engraved on my mind2 but theirs is particular4 ,they know every rock and every ledge1 every gulch and canyon1 and just where to wind among these to find a pass2 and their knowledge is unerring4 ,they cannot describe a country to you1 but they can tell you all the particulars of a route4 ,i have but one pony for the two1 and they were to ride turn about2 but ,chuar'ruumpeak1 the chief1 rides1 and ,shuts1 the one-eyed1 barelegged1 merry-faced pigmy1 walks1 and points the way with a slender cane2 then leaps and bounds by the shortest way1 and sits down on a rock and waits demurely until we come1 always meeting us with a jest1 his face a rich mine of sunny smiles4 ,at dusk we reach the water pocket4 ,it is in a deep gorge on the flank of this great mountain4 ,during the rainy season the water rolls down the mountain side1 plunging over precipices1 and excavates a deep basin in the solid rock below4 ,this basin1 hidden from the sun1 holds water the year round4 ,september #af4--,this morning1 while the men are packing the animals1 ,i climb a little mountain near camp1 to obtain a view of the country4 ,it is a huge pile of volcanic scoria1 loose and light as cinders from a forge1 which give way under my feet1 and ,i climb with great labor2 but1 reaching the summit and looking to the southeast1 ,i see once more the labyrinth of deep gorges that flank the ,grand ,canyon2 in the multitude1 ,i cannot determine whether it is itself in view or not4 ,the memories of grand and awful months spent in their deep1 gloomy solitudes come up1 and ,i live that life over again for a time4 ,i supposed1 before starting1 that ,i could get a good view of the great mountain from this point2 but it is like climbing a chair to look at a castle4 ,i wish to discover some way by which it can be ascended1 as it is my intention to go to the summit before ,i return to the settlements4 ,there is a cliff near the summit and ,i do not see any way yet4 ,now down ,i go1 sliding on the cinders1 making them rattle and clang4 ,the ,indians say we are to have a short ride to-day and that we shall reach an ,indian village1 situated by a good spring4 ,our way is across the spurs that put out from the great mountain as we pass it to the left4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cja ,up and down we go across deep ravines1 and the fragments of lava clank under our horses' feet2 now among cedars1 now among pines1 and now across mountain-side glades4 ,at one o'clock we descend into a lovely valley1 with a carpet of waving grass2 sometimes there is a little water in the upper end of it1 and during some seasons the ,indians we wish to find are encamped here4 ,chuar'ruumpeak rides on to find them1 and to say we are friends1 otherwise they would run away or propose to fight us1 should we come without notice4 ,soon we see ,chuar'ruumpeak riding at full speed and hear him shouting at the top of his voice1 and away in the distance are two ,indians scampering up the mountain side4 ,one stops2 the other still goes on and is soon lost to view4 ,we ride up and find ,chuar'ruumpeak talking with the one who had stopped4 ,it is one of the ladies resident in these mountain glades2 she is evidently powell-canyons-#ahg4;jpg ,,the ,,witches' ,,water ,,pocket4 #cjb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 paying taxes1 ,godiva-like4 ,she tells us that her people are at the spring2 that it is only two hours' ride2 that her good master has gone on to tell them we are coming2 and that she is harvesting seeds4 ,we sit down and eat our luncheon and share our biscuits with the woman of the mountains2 then on we go over a divide between two rounded peaks4 ,i send the party on to the village and climb the peak on the left1 riding my horse to the upper limit of trees and then tugging up afoot4 ,from this point ,i can see the ,grand ,canyon1 and ,i know where ,i am4 ,i can see the ,indian village1 too1 in a grassy valley1 em -bosomed in the mountains1 the smoke curling up from their fires2 my men are turning out their horses and a group of natives stand around4 ,down the mountain ,i go and reach camp at sunset4 ,after supper we put some cedar boughs on the fire2 the dusky villagers sit around1 and we have a smoke and a talk4 ,i explain the object of my visit1 and assure them of my friendly intentions4 ,then ,i ask them about a way down into the canyon4 ,they tell me that years ago a way was discovered by which parties could go down1 but that no one has attempted it for a long time2 that it is a very difficult and very dangerous undertaking to reach the ,big ,water4 ,then ,i inquire about the ,shi'vwits1 a tribe that lives about powell-canyons-#ahh4;jpg ,,wunavai ,,gathering ,,seeds4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,akd ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cjc the springs on the mountain sides and canyon cliffs to the southwest4 ,they say that their village is now about #cj miles away1 and promise to send a messenger for them to-morrow morning4 ,having finished our business for the evening1 ,i ask if there is a tugwi'nagunt in camp2 that is1 if there is any one present who is skilled in relating their mythology4 ,chuar'ruumpeak says ,tomor'rountikai1 the chief of these ,indians1 is a very noted man for his skill in this matter2 but they both object1 by saying that the season for tugwi'nai has not yet arrived4 ,but ,i had anticipated this1 and soon some members of the party come with pipes and tobacco1 a large kettle of coffee1 and a tray of biscuits1 and1 after sundry ceremonies of pipe lighting and smoking1 we all feast1 and1 warmed up by this1 to them1 unusually good living1 it is decided that the night shall be spent in relating mythology4 ,i ask ,tomor'rountikai to tell us about the ,so'kus ,wai'unats1 or ,one-,two ,boys1 and to this he agrees4 ,the long winter evenings of an ,indian camp are usually devoted to the relation of mythologic stories1 which purport to give a history of an ancient race of animal gods4 ,the stories are usually told by some old man1 assisted by others of the party1 who take secondary parts1 while the members of the tribe gather about and make comments or receive impressions from the morals which are enforced by the story-teller1 or1 more properly1 story-tellers2 for the exercise partakes somewhat of the nature of a theatrical performance4 ,,the ,,so',,kus ,,wai',,unats4 ,tumpwinai'rogwinump1 ,he ,who ,had ,a ,stone ,shirt1 killed ,sikor'1 the ,crane1 and stole his wife1 and seeing that she had a child and thinking it would be an incumbrance to them on their travels1 he ordered her to kill it4 ,but the mother1 loving the babe1 hid it under her dress and carried it away to its grandmother4 ,and ,stone ,shirt carried his captured bride to his own land4 ,in a few years the child grew to be a fine lad1 under the care of his grandmother1 and was her companion wherever she went4 ,one day they were digging flag roots on the margin of the river and putting them in a heap on the bank4 ,when they had been at work a little while1 the boy perceived that the roots came up with greater ease than was customary and he asked the old woman the cause of this1 #cjd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 but she did not know2 and1 as they continued their work1 still the reeds came up with less effort1 at which their wonder increased1 until the grandmother said1 ,surely1 some strange thing is about to transpire4 ,then the boy went to the heap where they had been placing the roots1 and found that some one had taken them away1 and he ran back1 exclaiming1 ,grandmother1 did you take the roots away8 ,and she answered1 ,no1 my child2 perhaps some ghost has taken them off2 let us dig no more2 come away4 ,but the boy was not satisfied1 as he greatly desired to know what all this meant2 so he searched about for a time1 and at length found a man sitting under a tree1 and taunted him with being a thief1 and threw mud and stones at him until he broke the stranger's leg4 ,the man answered not the boy nor resented the injuries he received1 but remained silent and sorrowful2 and when his leg was broken he tied it up in sticks and bathed it in the river and sat down again under the tree and beckoned the boy to approach4 ,when the lad came near1 the stranger told him he had something of great importance to reveal4 ,my son1 said he1 did that old woman ever tell you about your father and mother8 ,no1 answered the boy2 ,i have never heard of them4 ,my son1 do you see these bones scattered on the ground8 ,whose bones are these8 ,how should ,i know8 answered the boy4 ,it may be that some elk or deer has been killed here4 ,no1 said the old man4 ,perhaps they are the bones of a bear2 but the old man shook his head4 ,so the boy mentioned many other animals1 but the stranger still shook his head1 and finally said1 ,these are the bones of your father2 ,stone ,shirt killed him and left him to rot here on the ground like a wolf4 ,and the boy was filled with indignation against the slayer of his father4 ,then the stranger asked1 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cje ,is your mother in yonder lodge8 ,no1 the boy replied4 ,does your mother live on the banks of this river8 ,i don't know my mother2 ,i have never seen her2 she is dead1 answered the boy4 ,my son1 replied the stranger1 ,stone ,shirt1 who killed your father1 stole your mother and took her away to the shore of a distant lake1 and there she is his wife to-day4 ,and the boy wept bitterly and1 while the tears filled his eyes so that he could not see1 the stranger disappeared4 ,then the boy was filled with wonder at what he had seen and heard1 and malice grew in his heart against his father's enemy4 ,he returned to the old woman and said1 ,grandmother1 why have you lied to me about my father and mother8 ,but she answered not1 for she knew that a ghost had told all to the boy4 ,and the boy fell upon the ground weeping and sobbing1 until he fell into a deep sleep1 when strange things were told him4 ,his slumber continued three days and three nights and when he awoke he said to his grandmother3 ,i am going away to enlist all nations in my fight4 ,and straightway he departed4 7,here the boy's travels are related with many circumstances concerning the way he was received by the people1 all given in a series of conversations1 very lengthy2 so they will be omitted47 powell-canyons-#ahi4;jpg ,,terrace ,,fireplace ,,and ,,chimney ,,of ,,shumopavi4 #cjf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,finally he returned in advance of the people whom he had enlisted1 bringing with him ,shinau'av1 the ,wolf1 and ,togo'av1 the ,rattlesnake4 ,when the three had eaten food1 the boy said to the old woman3 ,grandmother1 cut me in two6 ,but she demurred1 saying she did not wish to kill one whom she loved so dearly4 ,cut me in two6 demanded the boy2 and he gave her a stone ax1 which he had brought from a distant country1 and with a manner of great authority he again commanded her to cut him in two4 ,so she powell-canyons-#aij4;jpg ,a ,,sweat ,,house4 stood before him and severed him in twain and fled in terror4 ,and lo6 each part took the form of an entire man1 and the one beautiful boy appeared as two1 and they were so much alike no one could tell them apart4 ,when the people or natives whom the boy had enlisted came pouring into the camp1 ,shinau'av and ,togo'av were engaged in telling them of the wonderful thing that had happened to the boy1 and that now there were two2 and they all held it to be an augury of a successful expedition to the land of ,stone ,shirt4 ,and they started on their journey4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cjg ,now the boy had been told in the dream of his three days' slumber1 of a magical cup1 and he had brought it home with him from his journey among the nations1 and the ,so'kus ,wai'unats carried it between them1 filled with water4 ,shinau'av walked on their right and ,togo'av on their left1 and the nations followed in the order in which they had been enlisted4 ,there was a vast number of them1 so that when they were stretched out in line it was one day's journey from the front to the rear of the column4 ,when they had journeyed two days and were far out on the desert1 all the people thirsted1 for they found no water1 and they fell down upon the sand groaning and murmuring that they had been deceived1 and they cursed the ,one-,two4 ,but the ,so'kus ,wai'unats had been told in the wonderful dream of the suffering which would be endured1 and that the water which they carried in the cup was to be used only in dire necessity2 and the brothers said to each other3 ,now the time has come for us to drink the water4 ,and when one had quaffed of the magical bowl1 he found it still full2 and he gave it to the other to drink1 and still it was full2 and the ,one-,two gave it to the people1 and one after another did they all drink1 and still the cup was full to the brim4 ,but ,shinau'av was dead1 and all the people mourned1 for he was a great man4 ,the brothers held the cup over him and sprinkled him with water1 when he arose and said3 ,why do you disturb me8 ,i did have a vision of mountain brooks and meadows1 of cane where honey dew was plenty4 ,they gave him the cup and he drank also2 but when he had finished there was none left4 ,refreshed and rejoicing1 they proceeded on their journey4 ,the next day1 being without food1 they were hungry1 and all were about to perish2 and again they murmured at the brothers and cursed them4 ,but the ,so'kus ,wai'unats saw in the distance an antelope1 standing on an eminence in the plain1 in bold relief against the sky2 and ,shinau'av knew it was the wonderful antelope with many eyes which ,stone ,shirt kept for his watchman2 and he proposed to go and kill it1 but ,togo'av demurred and said3 #cjh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,it were better that ,i should go1 for he will see you and run away4 ,but the ,so'kus ,wai'unats told ,shinau'av to go2 and he started in a direction away to the left of where the antelope was standing1 that he might make a long detour about some hills and come upon him from the other side4 ,togo'av went a little way from camp and called to the brothers3 ,do you see me6 ,they answered they did not4 ,hunt for me4 ,while they were hunting for him1 the ,rattlesnake said3 ,i can see you2 you are doing so and so1 telling them what they were doing2 but they could not find him4 ,then the ,rattlesnake came forth declaring3 ,now you know that when ,i so desire ,i can see others and ,i cannot be seen4 ,shinau'av cannot kill that antelope1 for he has many eyes1 and is the wonderful watchman of ,stone ,shirt2 but ,i can kill him1 for ,i can go where he is and he cannot see me4 ,so the brothers were convinced and permitted him to go2 and ,togo'av went and killed the antelope4 ,when ,shinau'av saw it fall1 he was very angry1 for he was extremely proud of his fame as a hunter and anxious to have the honor of killing this famous antelope1 and he ran up with the intention of killing ,togo'av2 but when he drew near and saw the antelope was fat and would make a rich feast for the people1 his anger was appeased4 ,what matters it1 said he1 who kills the game1 when we can all eat it8 ,so all the people were fed in abundance and they proceeded on their journey4 ,the next day the people again suffered for water1 and the magical cup was empty2 but the ,so'kus ,wai'unats1 having been told in their dream what to do1 transformed themselves into doves and flew away to a lake1 on the margin of which was the home of ,stone ,shirt4 ,coming near to the shore1 they saw two maidens bathing in the water2 and the birds stood and looked1 for the maidens were very beautiful4 ,then they flew into some bushes near by1 to have a nearer view1 and were caught in a snare which the girls had placed for intrusive birds4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cji ,the beautiful maidens came up and1 taking the birds out of the snare1 admired them very much1 for they had never seen such birds before4 ,they carried them to their father1 ,stone ,shirt1 who said3 ,my daughters1 ,i very much fear these are spies from my enemies1 for such birds do not live in our land4 ,he was about to throw them into the fire1 when the maidens besought him1 with tears1 that he would not destroy their beautiful birds2 but he yielded to their entreaties with much misgiving4 ,then they took the birds to the shore of the lake and set them free4 ,when the birds were at liberty once more they flew around among the bushes until they found the magical cup which they had lost1 and taking it up they carried it out into the middle of the lake and settled down upon the water1 and the maidens supposed they were drowned4 powell-canyons-#aia4;jpg ,,an ,,interior ,,lodge4 ,the birds1 when they had filled their cup1 rose again and went back to the people in the desert1 where they arrived just at the right time to save them with the cup of water1 from which each drank2 and yet it was full until the last was satisfied1 and then not a drop remained4 ,the brothers reported that they had seen ,stone ,shirt and his daughters4 #caj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#aib4;jpg ,,halved ,,and ,,pinned ,,trapdoor ,,frame ,,of ,,zu,i ,,kiva4 ,the next day they came near to the home of the enemy1 and the brothers1 in proper person1 went out to reconnoiter4 ,seeing a woman gleaning seeds1 they drew near1 and knew it was their mother1 whom ,stone ,shirt had stolen from ,sikor'1 the ,crane4 ,they told her they were her sons1 but she denied it and said she had never had but one son2 but the boys related to her their history1 with the origin of the two from one1 and she was convinced4 ,she tried to dissuade them from making war upon ,stone ,shirt1 and told them that no arrow could possibly penetrate his armor1 and that he was a great warrior and had no other delight than in killing his enemies1 and that his daughters also were furnished with magical bows and arrows1 which they could shoot so fast that the arrows would fill the air like a cloud1 and that it was not necessary for them to take aim1 for their missiles went where they willed2 they thought the arrows to the hearts of their enemies2 and thus the maidens could kill the whole of the people before a common arrow could be shot by a common person4 ,but the boys told her what the spirit had said in the long dream and that it had promised that ,stone ,shirt should be killed4 ,they told her to go down to the lake at dawn1 so as not to be endangered by the battle4 ,during the night the ,so'kus ,wai'unats transformed themselves into mice and proceeded to the home of ,stone ,shirt and found the magical bows and arrows that belonged to the maidens1 and with their sharp teeth they cut the sinew on the backs of the bows and nibbled the bow strings1 so that they were worthless4 ,togo'av hid himself under a rock near by4 ,when dawn came into the sky1 ,tumpwinai'ro-gwinump1 the ,stone ,shirt man1 arose and walked out of his tent1 exulting powell-canyons-#aic4;jpg ,,wooden ,,pivot ,,hinges ,,of ,a ,,zu ,,door4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #caa in his strength and security1 and sat down upon the rock under which ,togo'av was hiding2 and he1 seeing his opportunity1 sank his fangs into the flesh of the hero4 ,stone ,shirt sprang high into the air and called to his daughters that they were betrayed and that the enemy was near2 and they seized their magical bows and their quivers filled with magical arrows and hurried to his defense4 ,at the same time1 all the nations who were surrounding the camp rushed down to battle4 ,but the beautiful maidens1 finding their weapons were destroyed1 waved back their enemies1 as if they would parley2 and standing for a few moments over the body of their slain father1 sang the death song and danced the death dance1 whirling in giddy circles about the dead hero and wailing with despair1 until they sank down and expired4 ,the conquerors buried the maidens by the shores of the lake2 but ,tumpwinai'rogwinump was left to rot and his bones to bleach on the sands1 as he had left ,sikor'4 ,there is this proverb among the ,utes3 ,do not murmur when you suffer in doing what the spirits have commanded1 for a cup of water is provided2 and another3 ,what matters it who kills the game1 when we can all eat of it8 ,it is long after midnight when the performance is ended4 ,the story itself is interesting1 though ,i had heard it many times before2 but never1 perhaps1 under circumstances more effective4 ,stretched beneath tall1 somber pines2 a great camp fire2 by the fire1 men1 old1 wrinkled1 and ugly2 deformed1 blear-eyed1 wry-faced women2 lithe1 stately young men2 pretty but simpering maidens1 naked children1 all intently listening1 or laughing and talking by turns1 their strange faces and dusky forms lit up with the glare of the pine-knot fire4 ,all the circumstances conspired to make it a scene strange and weird4 ,one old man1 the sorcerer or medicine man of the tribe1 peculiarly impressed me4 ,now and then he would interrupt the play for the purpose of correcting the speakers or impressing the moral of the story with a strange dignity and impressiveness that seemed to pass to the very border of the ludicrous2 yet at no time did it make me smile4 ,the story is finished1 but there is yet time for an hour or two of sleep4 ,i take ,chuar'ruumpeak to one side for a talk4 ,the three men who left us in the canyon last year found their way up the lateral gorge1 by which #cab ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 they went into the ,shi'wits ,mountains1 lying west of us1 where they met with the ,indians and camped with them one or two nights and were finally killed4 ,i am anxious to learn the circumstances1 and as the people of the tribe who committed the deed live but a little way from these people and are intimate with them1 ,i ask ,chuar'ruumpeak to make inquiry for me4 ,then we go to bed4 ,september #ag4--;,early this morning the ,indians come up to our camp4 powell-canyons-#aid4;jpg ,a ,,poultry ,,house ,,of ,,sichumovi ,,resembling ,,an ,,oven4 ,they have concluded to send out a young man after the ,shi'vwits4 ,the runner fixes his moccasins1 puts some food in a sack and water in a little wickerwork jug1 straps them on his back1 and starts at a good round pace4 ,we have concluded to go down the canyon1 hoping to meet the ,shi'vwits on our return4 ,soon we are ready to start1 leaving the camp and pack animals in charge of the two ,indians who came with us4 ,as we move out our new guide comes up1 a blear-eyed1 weazen-faced1 quiet old man1 with his bow and arrows in one hand and a small cane in the other4 ,these ,indians all carry canes with a crooked handle1 they say to kill rattlesnakes and to pull rabbits from their holes4 ,the valley is high up in the mountain and we descend from it by a rocky1 precipitous trail1 down1 down1 down for two long1 weary hours1 leading our ponies and stumbling over the rocks4 ,at last we are at the foot of the mountain1 standing on a little knoll1 from which we can look into a canyon below4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cac ,into this we descend1 and then we follow it for miles1 clambering down and still down4 ,often we cross beds of lava1 that have been poured into the canyon by lateral channels1 and these angular fragments of basalt make the way very rough for the animals4 ,about two o'clock the guide halts us with his wand1 and1 springing over the rocks1 he is lost in a gulch4 ,in a few minutes he returns1 and tells us there is a little water below in a pocket4 ,it is vile and our ponies refuse to drink it4 ,we pass on1 still descending4 ,a mile or two from the water basin we come to a precipice more than #a1jjj feet to the bottom4 ,there is a canyon running at a greater depth and at right angles to this1 into which this enters by the precipice2 and this second canyon is a lateral one to the greater one1 in the bottom of which we are to find the river4 ,searching about1 we find a way by which we can descend along the shelves and steps and piles of broken rocks4 ,we start1 leading our ponies2 a wall upon our left2 unknown depths on our right4 ,at places our way is along shelves so narrow or so sloping that ,i ache with fear lest a pony should make a misstep and knock a man over the cliffs with him4 ,now and then we start the loose rocks under our feet1 and over the cliffs they go1 thundering down1 down1 the echoes rolling through distant canyons4 ,at last we pass along a level shelf for some distance1 then we turn to the right and zigzag down a steep slope to the bottom4 ,now we pass along this lower canyon for two or three miles1 to where it terminates in the ,grand ,canyon1 as the other ended in this1 only the river is #a1hjj feet below us1 and it seems at this distance to be but a creek4 ,our withered guide1 the human pickle1 seats himself on a rock and seems wonderfully amused at our discomfiture1 for we can see no way by which to descend to the river4 ,after some minutes he quietly rises and1 beckoning us to follow1 points out a narrow sloping shelf on the right1 and this is to be our way4 ,it leads along the cliff for half a mile to a wider bench beyond1 which1 he says1 is broken down on the other side in a great slide1 and there we can get to the river4 ,so we start out on the shelf2 it is so steep we can hardly stand on it1 and to fall or slip is to go--don't look to see6 ,it is soon manifest that we cannot get the ponies along the ledge4 ,the storms have washed it down since our guide was here last1 years ago4 ,one of the ponies has gone so far that we cannot turn him back until we #cad ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 find a wider place1 but at last we get him off4 ,with part of the men1 ,i take the horses back to the place where there are a few bushes growing and turn them loose2 in the meantime the other men are looking for some way by which we can get down to the river4 ,when ,i return1 one1 ,captain ,bishop1 has found a way and gone down4 ,we pack bread1 coffee1 sugar1 and two or three blankets among us1 and set out4 ,it is now nearly dark1 and we cannot find the way by which the captain powell-canyons-#aie4;jpg ,,the ,,human ,,pickle4 went1 and an hour is spent in fruitless search4 ,two of the men go away around an amphitheater1 more than a fourth of a mile1 and start down a broken chasm that faces us who are behind4 ,these walls1 that are vertical1 or nearly so1 are often cut by chasms1 where the showers run down1 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cae and the top of these chasms will be back a distance from the face of the wall1 and the bed of the chasm will slope down1 with here and there a fall4 ,at other places huge rocks have fallen and block the way4 ,down such a one the two men start4 ,there is a curious plant growing out from the crevices of the rock4 ,a dozen stems will start from one root and grow to the length of eight or ten feet and not throw out a branch or twig1 but these stems are thickly covered with leaves4 ,now and then the two men come to a bunch of dead stems and make a fire to mark for us their way and progress4 ,in the meantime we find such a gulch and start down1 but soon come to the jumping-off place1 where we can throw a stone and faintly hear it strike1 away below4 ,we fear that we shall have to stay here1 clinging to the rocks until daylight4 ,our little ,indian gathers a few dry stems1 ties them into a bundle1 lights one end1 and holds it up4 ,the others do the same1 and with these torches we find a way out of trouble4 ,helping each other1 holding torches for each other1 one clinging to another's hand until we can get footing1 then supporting the other on his shoulders1 thus we make our passage into the depths of the canyon4 ,and now ,captain ,bishop has kindled a huge fire of driftwood on the bank of the river4 ,this and the fires in the gulch opposite and our own flaming torches light up little patches that make more manifest the awful darkness below4 ,still1 on we go for an hour or two1 and at last we see ,captain ,bishop coming up the gulch with a huge torchlight on his shoulders4 ,he looks like a fiend1 waving brands and lighting the fires of hell1 and the men in the opposite gulch are imps1 lighting delusive fires in inaccessible crevices1 over yawning chasms2 our own little ,indian is surely the king of wizards1 so ,i think1 as ,i stop for a few moments on a rock to rest4 ,at last we meet ,captain ,bishop1 with his flaming torch1 and as he has learned the way he soon pilots us to the side of the great ,colorado4 ,we are athirst and hungry1 almost to starvation4 ,here we lie down on the rocks and drink1 just a mouthful or so1 as we dare2 then we make a cup of coffee1 and spreading our blankets on a sand beach the roaring ,colorado lulls us to sleep4 ,september #ah4--,we are in the ,grand ,canyon1 by the side of the ,colorado1 more than #f1jjj feet below our camp on the mountain side1 which is #ah miles away2 but the miles of horizontal distance represent but #caf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 a small part of the day's labor before us4 ,it is the mile of altitude we must gain that makes it a ,herculean task4 ,we are up early2 a little bread and coffee1 and we look about us4 ,our conclusion is that we can make this a depot of supplies1 should it be necessary2 that we can pack our rations to the point where we left our animals last night1 and that we can employ ,indians to bring them down to the water's edge4 ,on a broad shelf we find the ruins of an old stone house1 the walls of which are broken down1 and we can see where the ancient people who lived here--a race more highly civilized than the present--had made a garden and used a great spring that comes out of the rocks for irrigation4 ,on some rocks near by we discover some curious etchings4 ,still searching about1 we find an obscure trail up the canyon wall1 marked here and there by steps which have been built in the loose rock1 elsewhere hewn stairways1 and we find a much easier way to go up than that by which we came down in the darkness last night4 ,coming to the top of the wall1 we catch our horses and start4 ,up the canyon our jaded ponies toil and we reach the second cliff2 up this we go1 by easy stages1 leading the animals4 ,now we reach the offensive water pocket2 our ponies have had no water for thirty hours1 and are eager even for this foul fluid4 ,we carefully strain a kettleful for ourselves1 then divide what is left between them--two or three gallons for each2 but it does not satisfy them1 and they rage around1 refusing to eat the scanty grass4 ,we boil our kettle of water1 and skim it2 straining1 boiling1 and skimming make it a little better1 for it was full of loathsome1 wriggling larvae1 with huge black heads4 ,but plenty of coffee takes away the bad smell1 and so modifies the taste that most of us can drink1 though our little ,indian seems to prefer the original mixture4 ,we reach camp about sunset1 and are glad to rest4 ,september #ai4--,we are tired and sore1 and must rest a day with our ,indian neighbors4 ,during the inclement season they live in shelters made of boughs or the bark of the cedar1 which they strip off in long shreds4 ,in this climate1 most of the year is dry and warm1 and during such time they do not care for shelter4 ,clearing a small1 circular space of ground1 they bank it around with brush and sand1 and wallow in it during the day and huddle together in a heap at night--men1 women1 #cag powell-canyons-#aif4;jpg ,,recent ,,lava ,,flow ,,on ,,the ,,uinkaret4 powell-canyons-#aig4;jpg ,a ,,zu,i ,,window ,,glazed ,,with ,,selenite4 #cah ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 and children2 buckskin1 rags1 and sand4 ,they wear very little clothing1 not needing much in this lovely climate4 ,altogether1 these ,indians are more nearly in their primitive condition than any others on the continent with whom ,i am acquainted4 ,they have never received anything from the government and are too poor to tempt the trader1 and their country is so nearly inaccessible that the white man never visits them4 ,the sunny mountain side is covered with3 wild fruits1 nuts1 and native grains1 upon which they subsist4 ,the oose1 the fruit of the yucca1 or ,spanish bayonet1 is rich1 and not unlike the pawpaw of the valley of the ,ohio4 ,they eat it raw and also roast it in the ashes4 ,they gather the fruits of a cactus plant1 which are rich and luscious1 and eat them as grapes or express the juice from them1 making the dry pulp into cakes and saving them for winter and drinking the wine about their camp fires until the midnight is merry with their revelries4 ,they gather the seeds of many plants1 as sunflowers1 golden-rod1 and grasses4 ,for this purpose they have large conical baskets1 which hold two or more bushels4 ,the women carry them on their backs1 suspended from their foreheads by broad straps1 and with a smaller one in the left hand and a willow-woven fan in the right they walk among the grasses and sweep the seed into the smaller basket1 which is emptied now and then into the larger1 until it is full of seeds and chaff2 then they winnow out the chaff and roast the seeds4 ,they roast these curiously2 they put seeds and a quantity of red-hot coals into a willow tray and1 by rapidly and dexterously shaking and tossing them1 keep the coals aglow and the seeds and tray from burning4 ,so skilled are the crones in this work they roll the seeds to one side of the tray as they are roasted and the coals to the other as if by magic4 ,then they grind the seeds into a fine flour and make it into cakes and mush4 ,it is a merry sight1 sometimes1 to see the women grinding at the ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cai mill4 ,for a mill1 they use a large flat rock1 lying on the ground1 and another small cylindrical one in their hands4 ,they sit prone on the ground1 hold the large flat rock between the feet and legs1 then fill their laps with seeds1 making a hopper to the mill with their dusky legs1 and grind by pushing the seeds across the larger rock1 where they drop into a tray4 ,i have seen a group of women grinding together1 keeping time to a chant1 or gossiping and chatting1 while the younger lassies would jest and chatter and make the pine woods merry with their laughter4 ,mothers carry their babes curiously in baskets4 ,they make a wicker board by plaiting willows and sew a buckskin cloth to either edge1 and this is fulled in the middle so as to form a sack closed at the bottom4 ,at the top they make a wicker shade1 like my grandmother's sunbonnet1 and wrapping the little one in a wild-cat robe1 place it in the basket1 and this they carry on their backs1 strapped over the forehead1 and the little brown midgets are ever peering over their mothers' shoulders4 ,in camp1 they stand the basket against the trunk of a tree or hang it to a limb4 ,there is little game in the country1 yet they get a mountain sheep now and then or a deer1 with their arrows1 for they are not yet supplied with guns4 ,they get many rabbits1 sometimes with arrows1 sometimes with nets4 ,they make a net of twine1 made of the fibers of a native flax4 ,sometimes this is made a hundred yards in length1 and is placed in a half-circular position1 with wings of sage brush4 ,then they have a circle hunt1 and drive great numbers of rabbits into the snare1 where they are shot with arrows4 ,most of their bows are made of cedar1 but the best are made of the horns of mountain sheep4 ,these are soaked in water until quite soft1 cut into long thin strips1 and glued together2 they are then quite elastic4 ,during the autumn1 grasshoppers are very abundant1 can be gathered by the bushel4 ,at such a time1 they dig a hole in the sand1 heat stones in a fire near by1 put some hot stones in the bottom of the hole1 put on a layer of grasshoppers1 then a layer of hot stones1 and continue this1 until they put bushels on to roast4 ,there they are4 powell-canyons-#aih4;jpg ,a ,,zu ,,chair4 ,when cold weather sets in1 these insects are numbed and #cbj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#aii4;jpg ,,an ,,ancient ,,circular ,,doorway ,,or ,,stone ,,close ,,in ,,kin-,,tiel4 left until cool1 when they are taken out1 thoroughly dried1 and ground into meal4 ,grasshopper gruel or grasshopper cake is a great treat4 ,their lore consists of a mass of traditions1 or mythology4 ,it is very difficult to induce them to tell it to white men2 but the old ,spanish priests1 in the days of the conquest of ,new ,mexico1 spread among the ,indians of this country many ,bible stories1 which the ,indians are usually willing to tell4 ,it is not always easy to recognize them2 the ,indian mind is a strange receptacle for such stories and they are apt to sprout new limbs4 ,maybe much of their added quaint-ness is due to the way in which they were told by the fathers4 ,but in a confidential way1 while alone1 or when admitted to their camp fire on a winter night1 one may hear the stories of their mythology4 ,i believe that the greatest mark of friendship or confidence that an ,indian can give is to tell you his religion4 ,after one has so talked with me ,i should ever trust him2 and ,i feel on very good terms with these ,indians since our experience of the other night4 ,a knowledge of the watering places and of the trails and passes is considered of great importance and is necessary to give standing to a chief4 ,this evening1 the ,shi'vwits1 for whom we have sent1 come in1 and after supper we hold a long council4 ,a blazing fire is built1 and around this we sit--the ,indians living here1 the ,shi'vwits1 ,jacob ,hamblin1 and myself4 ,this man1 ,hamblin1 speaks their language well and has a great influence over all the ,indians in the region round about4 ,he is a silent1 reserved man1 and when he speaks it is in a slow1 quiet way that inspires great awe4 ,his talk is so low that they must listen attentively to hear1 and they sit around him in deathlike silence4 ,when he finishes a powell-canyons-#bjj4;jpg ,a ,,gaming ,,ring4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cba measured sentence the chief repeats it and they all give a solemn grunt4 ,but1 first1 ,i fill my pipe1 light it1 and take a few whiffs1 then pass it to ,hamblin2 he smokes1 and gives it to the man next1 and so it goes around4 ,when it has passed the chief1 he takes out his own pipe1 fills and lights it1 and passes it around after mine4 ,i can smoke my own pipe in turn1 but when the ,indian pipe comes around1 ,i am nonplused4 ,it has a large stem1 which has at some time been broken1 and now there is a buckskin rag wound around it and tied with sinew1 so that the end of the stem is a huge mouthful1 exceedingly repulsive4 ,to gain time1 ,i refill it1 then engage in very earnest conversation1 and1 all unawares1 ,i pass it to my neighbor unlighted4 ,i tell the ,indians that ,i wish to spend some months in their country during the coming year and that ,i would like them to treat me as a friend4 ,i do not wish to trade2 do not want their lands4 ,heretofore ,i have found it very difficult to make the natives understand my object1 but the gravity of the ,mormon missionary helps me much4 ,i tell them that all the great and good white men are anxious to know very many things1 that they spend much time in learning1 and that the greatest man is he who knows the most2 that the white men want to know all about the mountains and the valleys1 the rivers and the canyons1 the beasts and birds and snakes4 ,then ,i tell them of many ,indian tribes1 and where they live2 of the ,european nations2 of the ,chinese1 of ,africans1 and all the strange things about them that come to my mind4 ,i tell them of the ocean1 of great rivers and high mountains1 of strange beasts and birds4 ,at last ,i tell them ,i wish to learn about their canyons and mountains1 and about themselves1 to tell other men at home2 and that ,i want to take pictures of everything and show them to my friends4 ,all this occupies much time1 and the matter and manner make a deep impression4 ,then their chief replies3 ,your talk is good1 and we believe what you say4 ,we believe in ,jacob1 and look upon you as a father4 ,when you are hungry1 you may have our game4 ,you may gather our sweet fruits4 ,we will give you food when you come to our land4 ,we will show you the springs and you may drink2 the water is good4 ,we will be friends and when you come we will be glad4 ,we will tell the ,indians who live on the other side of the great river that we have seen ,ka'purats1 and that he is the ,indians' friend4 ,we will tell them he is ,jacob's #cbb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 friend4 ,we are very poor4 ,look at our women and children2 they are naked4 ,we have no horses2 we climb the rocks and our feet are sore4 ,we live among rocks and they yield little food and many thorns4 ,when the cold moons come1 our children are hungry4 ,we have not much to give2 you must not think us mean4 ,you are wise2 we have heard you tell strange things4 ,we are ignorant4 ,last year we killed three white men4 ,bad men said they were our enemies4 ,they told great lies4 ,we thought them true4 ,wo were mad2 it made us big fools4 ,we are very sorry4 ,do not think of them2 it is done2 let us be friends4 ,we are ignorant--like little children in understanding compared with you4 ,when we do wrong1 do not you get mad and be like children too4 ,when white men kill our people1 we kill them4 ,then they kill more of us4 ,it is not good4 ,we hear that the white men are a great number4 ,when they stop killing us1 there will be no ,indian left to powell-canyons-#bja4;jpg ,,interior ,,view ,,of ,a ,,tusayan ,,kiva4 ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cbc bury the dead4 ,we love our country2 we know not other lands4 ,we hear that other lands are better2 we do not know4 ,the pines sing and we are glad4 ,our children play in the warm sand2 we hear them sing and are glad4 ,the seeds ripen and we have to eat and we are glad4 ,we do not want their good lands2 we want our rocks and the great mountains where our fathers lived4 ,we are very poor2 we are very ignorant2 but we are very honest4 ,you have horses and many things4 ,you are very wise2 you have a good heart4 ,we will be friends4 ,nothing more have ,i to say4 ,ka'purats is the name by which ,i am known among the ,utes and ,shoshones1 meaning arm off4 ,there was much more repetition than ,i have given1 and much emphasis4 ,after this a few presents were given1 we shook hands1 and the council broke up4 ,mr4 ,hamblin fell into conversation with one of the men and held him until the others had left1 and then learned more of the particulars of the death of the three men4 ,they came upon the ,indian village almost starved and exhausted with fatigue4 ,they were supplied with food and put on their way to the settlements4 ,shortly after they had left1 an ,indian from the east side of the ,colorado arrived at their village and told them about a number of miners having killed a squaw in drunken brawl1 and no doubt these were the men2 no person had ever come down the canyon2 that was impossible2 they were trying to hide their guilt4 ,in this way he worked them into a great rage4 ,they followed1 surrounded the men in ambush1 and filled them full of arrows4 ,that night ,i slept in peace1 although these murderers of my men1 and their friends1 the ,uinkarets1 were sleeping not #ejj yards away4 ,while we were gone to the canyon1 the pack train and supplies1 enough to make an ,indian rich beyond his wildest dreams1 were all left in their charge1 and were all safe2 not even a lump of sugar was pilfered by the children4 ,september #bj4--;,for several days we have been discussing the relative merits of several names for these mountains4 ,the ,indians call them ,uinkarets1 the region of pines1 and we adopt the name4 ,the great mountain we call ,mount ,trumbull1 in honor of the senator4 ,to-day the train starts back to the canyon water pocket1 while ,captain ,bishop and #cbd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,i climb ,mount ,trumbull4 ,on our way we pass the point that was the last opening to the volcano4 ,it seems but a few years since the last flood of fire swept the valley4 ,between two rough1 conical hills it poured1 and ran down the valley to the foot of a mountain standing almost at the lower end1 then parted1 and ran on either side of the mountain4 ,this last overflow is very plainly marked2 there is soil1 with trees and grass1 to the very edge powell-canyons-#bjb4;jpg ,,cave ,,lake ,,in ,,kanab ,,canyon4 of it1 on a more ancient bed4 ,the flood was1 everywhere on its border1 from #aj to #bj feet in height1 terminating abruptly and looking like a wall from below4 ,on cooling1 it shattered into fragments1 but these are still in place and the outlines of streams and waves can be seen4 ,so ,,the ,,rio ,,virgen ,,and ,,the ,,uinkaret ,,mountains4 #cbe little time has elapsed since it ran down that the elements have not weathered a soil1 and there is scarcely any vegetation on it1 but here and there a lichen is found4 ,and yet1 so long ago was it poured from the depths1 that where ashes and cinders have collected in a few places1 some huge cedars have grown4 ,near the crater the frozen waves of black basalt are rent with deep fissures1 transverse to the direction1 of the flow4 ,then we ride through a cedar forest up a long ascent1 until we come to cliffs of columnar basalt4 ,here we tie our horses and prepare for a climb among the columns4 ,through crevices we work1 till at last we are on the mountain1 a thousand acres of pine laud spread out before us1 gently rising to the other edge4 ,there are two peaks on the mountain4 ,we walk two miles to the foot of the one looking to be the highest1 then a long1 hard climb to its summit4 ,what a view is before us6 ,a vision of glory6 ,peaks of lava all around below us4 ,the ,vermilion ,cliffs to the north1 with their splendor of colors2 the ,pine ,valley ,mountains to the northwest1 clothed in mellow1 perspective haze2 unnamed mountains to the southwest1 towering over canyons bottomless to my peering gaze1 like chasms to nadir hell2 and away beyond1 the ,san ,francisco ,mountains1 lifting their black heads into the heavens4 ,we find our way down the mountain1 reaching the trail made by the pack train just at dusk1 and follow it through the dark until we see the camp fire--a welcome sight4 ,two days more1 and we are at ,pipe ,spring2 one day1 and we are at ,kanab4 ,eight miles above the town is a canyon1 on either side of which is a group of lakes4 ,four of these are in caves where the sun never shines4 ,by the side of one of these ,i sit1 at my feet the crystal waters1 of which ,i may drink at will4 #cbf powell-canyons-#bjc4;jpg ,,ancient ,,pottery ,,from ,,tusayan4 #cbg ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,over ,,the ,,river4 ,,it ,,is our intention to explore a route from ,kanab to the ,colorado ,river at the mouth of the ,paria1 and1 if successful in this undertaking1 to cross the river and proceed to ,tusayan1 and ultimately to ,santa ,fe1 ,new ,mexico4 ,we propose to build a flatboat for the purpose of ferrying over the river1 and have had the lumber necessary for that purpose hauled from ,st4 ,george to ,kanab4 ,from here to the mouth of the ,paria it must be packed on the backs of mules2 ,captain ,bishop and ,mr4 ,graves are to take charge of this work1 while with ,mr4 ,hamblin ,i explore the ,kaibab ,plateau4 ,september #bd--,to-day we are ready for the start4 ,the mules are packed and away goes our train of lumber1 rations1 and camping equipage4 ,the ,indian trail is at the foot of the ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,pushing on to the east with ,mr4 ,hamblin for a couple of hours in the early morning1 we reach the mouth of a dry canyon1 which comes down through the cliffs4 ,instead of a narrow canyon we find an open valley from one fourth to one half a mile in width4 ,on rare occasions a stream flows down this valley1 but now sand dunes stretch across it4 ,on either side there is a wall of vertical rock of orange sandstone1 and here and there at the foot of the wall are found springs that afford sweet water4 ,we push our way far up the valley to the foot of the ,gray ,cliffs1 and by a long detour find our way to the summit4 ,here again we find that wonderful scenery of naked white rocks carved into great round bosses and domes4 ,looking off to the north we can see vermilion and pink cliffs1 crowned with forests1 while below us to the south stretch the dunes and red-lands of the ,vermilion ,cliff region1 and far away we can see the opposite wall of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,in the middle of the #cbh #h ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 afternoon we descend into the canyon valley and hurriedly ride1 down to the mouth of the canyon1 then follow the trail of the pack train1 for we are to camp with the party to-night4 ,we find it at the ,navajo ,well4 ,as we approach in the darkness the camp fire is a cheerful sight4 ,the ,navajo ,well is a pool in the sand1 the sands themselves lying in a basin1 with naked1 smooth rocks all about on which the rains are caught and by which the sand in the basin is filled with water1 and by digging into the sand this sweet water is found4 ,september #be4--;,at sunrise ,mr4 ,hamblin and ,i part from the train once more1 taking with us ,chuar1 a chief of the ,kaibabits1 for a trip to the south1 for one more view of the ,grand ,canyon from the summit of the ,kaibab ,plateau4 ,all day long our way is over red hills1 with a bold line of cliffs on our left4 ,a little after noon we reach a great spring1 and here we are to camp for the night1 for the region beyond us is unknown and we wish to enter it with a good day before us4 ,the ,indian goes out to hunt a rabbit for supper1 and ,hamblin and ,i climb the cliffs4 ,from an elevation of #a1hjj feet above the spring we watch the sun go down and see the sheen on the ,vermilion ,cliffs and red-lands slowly fade into the gloaming2 then we descend to supper4 ,september #bf4--;,early in the morning we pass up a beautiful valley to the south and turn westward onto a great promontory1 from the summit of which the ,grand ,canyon is in view4 ,its deep gorge can be seen to the westward for #ej or #fj miles1 and to the southeastward we look off into the stupendous chasm1 with its marvelous forms and colors4 ,twenty-one years later ,i read over the notes of that day's experience and the picture of the ,grand ,canyon from this point is once more before me4 ,i did not know when writing the notes that this was the grandest view that can be obtained of the region from ,fremont's ,peak to the ,gulf of ,california1 but ,i did realize that the scene before me was awful1 sublime1 and glorious--awful in profound depths1 sublime in massive and strange forms1 and glorious in colors4 ,years later ,i visited the same spot with my friend ,thomas ,moran4 ,from this world of wonder he selected a section which was the most interesting to him and painted it4 ,that painting1 known as ,the ,chasm of the ,colorado1 is in a hall in the ,senate wing of the ,capitol of the ,united ,states4 ,if any #cbi powell-canyons-#bjd4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,fetiches ,,and ,,implements4 #ccj powell-canyons-#bje4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,basketry4 ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #cca one will look upon that picture1 and then realize that it was but a small part of the landscape before us on this memorable #bfth day of ,september1 he will understand why ,i suppress my notes descriptive of the scene4 ,the landscape is too vast1 too complex1 too grand for verbal description4 ,we sleep another night by the spring on the summit of the ,kaibab1 and next day we go around to ,point ,sublime and then push on to the very verge of the ,kaibab1 where we can overlook the canyon at the mouth of the ,little ,colorado4 ,the day is a repetition of the glorious day before1 and at night we sleep again at the same spring4 ,in the morning we turn to the northeast and descend from ,kaibab to the back of ,marble ,canyon and cross it at the foot of the ,vermilion ,cliffs1 and find our packers camped at ,jacob's ,pool1 where a spring bursts from the cliff at the summit of a great hill of talus4 ,in the camp we find a score or more of ,indians1 who have joined us here by previous appointment1 as we need their services in crossing the river4 ,on the last day of ,september we follow the ,vermilion ,cliffs around to the mouth of the ,paria4 ,here the cliffs present a wall of about #b1jjj feet in height1--above1 orange and vermilion1 but below1 chocolate1 purple1 and gray in alternating bands of rainbow brightness4 ,the cliffs are cut with deep side canyons1 and the rainbow hills below are destitute of vegetation4 ,at night we camp on the bank of the ,colorado ,river1 on the same spot where our boat-party had camped the year before4 ,leaving the party in charge of ,mr4 ,graves and ,mr4 ,bishop1 while they are building a ferryboat1 ,i take some ,indians to explore the canyon of the ,paria4 ,we find steep walls on either side1 but a rather broad1 flat plain below1 through which the muddy river winds its way over quicksands4 ,this stream we have to cross from time to time1 and we find the quicksands treacherous and our horses floundering in the trembling masses4 ,these broad canyons1 or canyon valleys1 are carved by the streams in obedience to an interesting law of corrasion4 ,where the declivity of the stream is great the river corrades1 or cuts its bottom deeper and still deeper1 ever forming narrow clefts1 but when the stream has cut its channel down until the declivity is greatly reduced1 it can no longer carry the load of sand with which it is fed1 but drops #ccb powell-canyons-#bjf4;jpg ,,dance ,,paraphernalia ,,from ,,tusayan4 ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #ccc a part of it on the way4 ,wherever it drops it in this manner a sand bank is formed4 ,now the effect of this sand bar is to turn the course of the river against the wall or bank1 and as it unloads in one place it cuts in another below and loads itself again2 so it unloads itself and forms bars1 and loads itself with more material to form bars1 and the process of vertical cutting is transformed into a process of lateral cutting4 ,the rate of cutting is greatly increased thereby1 but the wear is on the sides and not on the bottom4 ,so long as the declivity of the stream is great1 the greater the load of sand carried the greater the rate of vertical cutting2 but when the declivity is reduced1 so that part of the load is thrown down1 vertical cutting is changed to lateral and the rate of corrosion multiplied thereby4 ,now this broad valley canyon1 or box canyon1 as such channels are usually called in the country1 has been formed by the stream itself1 cutting its channel at first vertically and afterwards laterally1 and so a great flood-plain is formed4 ,for a day we ride up the ,paria1 and next day return4 ,the party in camp have made good progress4 ,the boat is finished and a part of the camp freight has been transported across the river4 ,the next day the remainder is ferried over and the animals are led across1 swimming behind the ferryboat in pairs4 ,here a bold bluff more than #a1bjj feet in height has to be climbed1 and the day is spent in getting to its summit4 ,we make a dry camp1 that is1 without water1 except that which has been carried in canteens by the ,indians4 ,october #d---;,all day long we pass by the foot of the ,echo ,cliffs1 which are in fact the continuation of the ,vermilion ,cliffs4 ,it is still a landscape of rocks1 with cliffs and pinnacles and towers and buttes on the left1 and deep chasms running down into the ,marble ,canyon on the right4 ,at night we camp at a water pocket1 a pool in a great limestone rock4 ,we still go south for another half day to a cedar ridge2 here we turn westward1 climbing the cliffs1 which we find to be not the edge of an escarpment with a plateau above1 but a long narrow ridge which descends on the eastern side to a level only #ejj or #fjj feet above the trail left below4 ,on the eastern side of the cliff a great homogeneous sandstone stretches1 declining rapidly1 and on its sides are carved innumerable basins1 which are now filled with pure water1 and we call this the ,thousand ,wells4 ,we have a long afternoon's #ccd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ride over sand dunes1 slowly toiling from mile to mile4 ,we can see a ledge of rocks in the distance1 and the ,indian with us assures us that we shall find water there4 ,at night we come to the cliff1 and under it1 in a great cave1 we find a lakelet4 ,sweeter1 cooler water never blessed the desert4 ,while at ,jacob's ,pool1 several days before1 ,i sent a runner forward into this region with instructions to hunt us up some of powell-canyons-#bjg4;jpg ,,the ,,thousand ,,wells4 the natives and bring them to this pool4 ,when we arrive we are disappointed in not finding them on hand1 but a little later half a dozen men come in with the ,indian messenger4 ,they are surly fellows and seem to be displeased at our coming4 ,before midnight they leave4 ,under the circumstances ,i do not feel that it is safe to linger long at this spot2 so ,i do not lie down to rest1 but walk the camp among the guards and see that everything is in readiness to move4 ,about two o'clock ,i set a couple of men to prepare a hasty lunch1 call up all hands1 and we saddle1 pack1 eat our lunch1 and start off to the southwest to reach ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #cce the ,moenkopi1 where there is a little ranchera of ,indians1 a farming settlement belonging to the ,oraibis1 so we are told4 ,we set out at a rapid rate1 and when daylight comes we are in sight of the canyon of the ,moenkopi1 into which we soon descend2 but the ranchera has been abandoned4 ,up the ,moenkopi we pass several miles1 in a beautiful canyon valley1 until we find a pool in a nook of a cliff1 where we feel that we can defend ourselves with certainty1 and here we camp for the night4 ,the next day we go on to ,oraibi1 one of the pueblos of the ,province of ,tusayan4 ,at ,tusayan we stop for two weeks and visit the seven pueblos on the cliffs4 ,oraibi is first reached1 then ,shumopavi1 ,shupaulovi1 and ,mashongnavi1 and finally ,walpi1 ,sichumovi1 and ,hano4 ,in a street of ,oraibi our little party is gathered4 ,soon a council is called by the cacique1 or zchief1 and we are assigned to a suite of six or powell-canyons-#bjh4;jpg ,,terraced ,,houses ,,in ,,oraibi1 ,,showing ,,entrance ,,to ,,kiva ,,in ,,foreground4 #ccf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 eight rooms for our quarters4 ,we purchase corn of some of the people1 and after feeding our animals they are intrusted to two ,indian boys1 who1 under the direction of the cacique1 take them to a distant mesa to herd4 ,this is my first view of an inhabited pueblo1 though ,i have seen many ruins from time to time4 ,at first ,i am a little disappointed in the people4 ,they seem scarcely superior to the ,shoshones and ,utes1 tribes with whom ,i am so well acquainted4 ,their dress is less picturesque1 and the men have an ugly fashion of banging their hair in front so that it comes down to their eyes and conceals their foreheads4 ,but the women are more neatly dressed and arrange their hair in picturesque coils4 ,oraibi is a town of several hundred inhabitants4 ,it stands on a mesa or little plateau #bjj or #cjj feet above the surrounding plain4 ,the mesa itself has a rather diversified surface4 ,the streets of the town are quite irregular1 and in a general way run from north to south4 ,the houses are constructed to face the east4 ,they are of stone laid in mortar1 and are usually three or four stories high4 ,the second story stands back upon the first1 leaving a terrace over one tier of rooms4 ,the third is set back of the second1 and the fourth back of the third2 so that their houses are terraced to face the east4 ,these terraces on the top are all flat1 and the people usually ascend to the first terrace by a ladder and then by another into the lower rooms4 ,in like manner1 ladders or rude stairways are used to reach the upper stories4 ,the climate is very warm and the people live on the tops of their houses4 ,it seems strange to see little naked children climbing the ladders and running over the house tops like herds of monkeys4 ,after we have looked about the town and been gazed upon by the wondering eyes of the men1 women1 and children1 we are at last called to supper4 ,in a large central room we gather and the food is placed before us4 ,a stew of goat's flesh is served in earthen bowls1 and each one of us is furnished with a little earthen ladle4 ,the bread is a great novelty to me4 ,it is made of corn meal in sheets as thin and large as foolscap paper4 ,in the corner of the house is a little oven1 the top of which is a great flat stone1 and the good housewife bakes her bread in this manner3 ,the corn meal is mixed to the consistency of a rather thick gruel1 and the woman dips her hand into the mixture and plasters the hot ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #ccg stone with a thin coating of the meal paste4 ,in a minute or two it forms into a thin paperlike cake1 and she takes it up by the edge1 folds it once1 and places it on a basket tray2 then another and another sheet of paper-bread is made in like manner and piled on the tray4 ,i notice that the paste stands in a number of different bowls and that she takes from1 one bowl and then another in order1 and ,i soon see the effect of this4 ,the corn before being ground is assorted by colors1 white1 yellow1 red1 blue1 and black1 and the sheets of bread1 when made1 are of the same variety of colors1 white1 yellow1 red1 blue1 and black4 ,this bread1 held on very beautiful trays1 is itself a work of art4 ,they call it powell-canyons-#bji4;jpg ,,the ,,house ,,of ,,talti1 ,,chief ,,of ,,the ,,council ,,in ,,the ,,town ,,of ,,obaibi4 piki4 ,after we have partaken of goat stew and bread a course of dumplings1 melons1 and peaches is served1 and this finishes the feast4 ,what seem to be dumplings are composed of a kind of hash of bread and meat1 tied up in little balls with cornhusks and served boiling hot4 ,they are eaten with much gusto by the party and highly praised4 ,some days after we learned how they are made2 they are prepared of goat's flesh1 bread1 and turnips1 and kneaded by mastication4 ,as we prefer to masticate our own food1 this dainty dish is never again a favorite4 ,in the evening the people celebrate our advent by a dance1 such it seemed to us1 but probably it was one of their regular ceremonies4 #cch ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,after dark a pretty little fire is built in the chimney corner and ,i spend the evening in rehearsing to a group of the leading men the story of my travels in the canyon country4 ,of our journey down the canyon in boats they have already heard1 and they listen with great interest to what ,i say4 ,my talk with them is in the ,mexican patois1 which several of them understand1 and all that ,i say is interpreted4 ,the next morning we are up at daybreak4 ,soon we hear loud shouts coming from the top of the house4 ,the cacique is calling his people4 ,then all the people1 men1 women1 and children1 come out on the tops of their houses4 ,just before sunrise they sprinkle water and meal from beautiful grails2 then they all stand with bare heads to watch the rising of the sun4 ,when his full orb is seen1 once more they sprinkle the sacred water and the sacred meal over the tops of the houses4 ,then the cacique in a loud voice directs the labor of the day4 ,so his talk is explained to us4 ,some must gather corn1 others must go for wood1 water must be brought from the distant wells1 and the animals of the strangers must be cared for4 ,now the house tops present a lively scene4 ,bowls of water are brought2 from them the men fill their mouths and with dexterity blow water over their hands in spray and wash their faces and lave their long shining heads of hair2 and the women dress one another's locks4 ,with bowls of water they make suds of the yucca plant1 and wash and comb and deftly roll their hair1 the elder women in great coils at the back of the head1 the younger women in flat coils on their cheeks4 ,and so the days are passed and the weeks go by1 and we study the language of the people and record many hundreds of their words and observe their habits and customs and gain some knowledge of their mythology1 but above all do we become interested in their religious ceremonies4 ,one afternoon they take me from ,oraibi to ,shupaulovi to witness a great religious ceremony4 ,it is the invocation to the gods for rain4 ,we arrive about sundown1 and are taken into a large subterranean chamber1 into which we descend by a ladder4 ,soon about a dozen ,shamans are gathered with us1 and the ceremony continues from sunset to sunrise4 ,it is a series of formal invocations1 incantations1 and sacrifices1 especially of holy meal and holy water4 ,the leader of the ,shamans is a great burly bald-headed ,indian1 which is a remarkable ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #cci powell-canyons-#baj4;jpg ,,praying ,,for ,,rain4 sight1 for ,i have never seen one before4 ,whatever he says or does is repeated by three others in turn4 ,the paraphernalia of their worship is very interesting4 ,at one end of the chamber is a series of tablets of wood covered with quaint pictures of animals and of corn1 and overhead are conventional black clouds from which yellow lightnings are projected1 while drops of rain fall on the corn below4 ,wooden birds1 set on pedestals and decorated with plumes1 are arranged in various ways4 ,ears of corn1 vases of holy water1 and trays of meal make up a part of the paraphernalia of worship4 ,i try to record some of the prayers1 but am not very successful1 as it is difficult to hold my interpreter to the work4 ,but one of these prayers is something like this3 ,muingwa pash lolomai1 ,master of the ,clouds1 we eat no stolen bread2 our young men ride not the stolen ass2 our food is not stolen from #cdj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 the gardens of our neighbors4 ,muingwa pash lolomai1 we beseech of thee to dip your great sprinkler1 made of the feathers of the birds of the heavens1 into the lakes of the skies and sprinkle us with sweet rains1 that the ground may be prepared in the winter for the corn that grows in the summer4 ,at one time in the night three women were brought into the kiva4 ,these women had a cincture of cotton about their loins1 but were otherwise nude4 ,one was very old1 another of middle age1 and the third quite young1 perhaps fourteen or fifteen years old4 ,as they stood in a corner of the kiva their faces and bodies were painted by the bald-headed priest4 ,for this purpose he filled his mouth with water and pigment and dexterously blew a fine spray over the faces1 necks1 shoulders1 and breasts of the women4 ,then with his finger as a brush he decorated them over this groundwork1 which was of yellow1 with many figures in various colors4 ,from that time to daylight the three women remained in the kiva and took part in the ceremony as choristers and dancing performers4 ,at sunrise we are filed out of the kiva1 and a curious sight is presented to our view4 ,shupaulovi is built in terraces about a central court1 or plaza1 and in the plaza about fifty men are drawn up in a line facing us4 ,these men are naked except that they wear masks1 strange and grotesque1 and great flaring headdresses in many colors4 powell-canyons-#baa4;jpg ,,mashongnavi4 #cda powell-canyons-#bab4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,trays4 #cdb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ,our party from the kiva stand before this line of men1 and the bald-headed priest harangues them in words ,i cannot understand4 ,then across the other end of the plaza a line of women is formed1 facing the line of men1 and at a signal from the old ,shaman the drums and the whistles on the terraces1 with a great chorus of singers1 set up a tumultuous noise1 and with slow shuffling steps the line of men and the line of women move toward each other in a curious waving dance4 ,when the lines approach so as to be not more than #aj or #ab feet apart1 our party still being between them1 they all change so as to dance backward to their original positions4 ,this is repeated until the dancers have passed over the plaza four times4 ,then there is a wild confusion of dances1 the order of which ,i cannot understand1--if indeed there is any system1 except that the men and women dance apart4 ,soon this is over1 and the women all file down the ladder into the kiva and the men strip off their masks and arrange themselves about the plaza1 every one according to his own wish1 but as if in sharp expectancy2 then the women return up the ladder from the kiva and climb to the tops of the houses and stand on the brink of the nearer terrace4 ,now the music commences once more1 and the old woman who was painted in the kiva during the night throws something1 ,i cannot tell what1 into the midst of the plaza4 ,with a shout and a scream1 every man jumps for it2 one seizes it1 another takes it away from him1 and then another secures it2 and with shouts and screams they wrestle and tussle for the charm which the old woman has thrown to them4 ,after a while some one gets permanent possession of the charm and the music ceases4 ,then another is thrown into the midst4 ,so these contests continue at intervals until high noon4 ,in the evening we return to ,oraibi4 ,and now for two days we employ our time in making a collection of the arts of the people of this town4 ,first1 we display to them our stock of goods1 composed of knives1 needles1 awls1 scissors1 paints1 dyestuffs1 leather1 and various fabrics in gay colors4 ,then we go around among the people and select the articles of pottery1 stone implements1 instruments and utensils made of bone1 horn1 shell1 articles of clothing and ornament1 baskets1 trays1 and many other things1 and tell the people to bring them the next day to our rooms4 ,a little after sunrise they come in1 and we have a busy day of #cdc powell-canyons-#bac4;jpg powell-canyons-#bad4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,maskettes4 #cdd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 barter4 ,when articles are brought in such as ,i want1 ,i lay them aside4 ,then if possible ,i discover the fancy of the one who brings them1 and ,i put by the articles the goods which ,i am willing to give in exchange for them4 ,having thus made an offer1 ,i never deviate from it1 but leave it to the option of the other party to take either his own articles or mine lying beside them4 ,the barter is carried on with a hearty good will2 the people jest and laugh with us and with one another2 all are pleased1 and there is nothing to mar this day of pleasure4 ,in the afternoon and evening ,i make an inventory of our purchases1 and the next day is spent in packing them for shipment4 ,some of the things are heavy1 and ,i engage some ,indians to help transport the cargo to ,fort ,wingate1 where we can get army transportation4 ,october #bd-4--,to-day we leave ,oraibi4 ,we are ready to start in the early morning4 ,the whole town comes to bid us good-by4 ,before we start they perform some strange ceremony which ,i cannot understand1 but1 with invocations to some deity1 they sprinkle us1 our animals1 and our goods with water and with meal4 ,then there is a time of handshaking and hugging4 ,good-by2 good-by2 good-by6 ,at last we powell-canyons-#bae4;jpg ,,sichumovi ,,and ,,hano4 ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #cde start4 ,our way is to ,walpi1 by a heavy trail over a sand plain1 among the dunes4 ,we arrive a little after noon4 ,walpi1 ,sichumovi1 and ,hano are three little towns on one butte1 with but little space between them2 the stretch from town to town is hardly large enough for a game of ball4 ,the top of the butte is of naked rock1 and it rises from #cjj to #djj feet above the sand plains below by a precipitous cliff on every side4 ,to reach it from below1 it must be climbed by niches and stairways in the rock4 ,it is a good site for defense4 ,at the foot of the cliff and on some terraces the people have built corrals of stone for their asses4 ,all the water used in these three towns is derived from a well nearly a mile away--a deep pit sunk in the sand1 over the site of a dune-buried brook4 ,when we arrive the men of ,walpi carry our goods1 camp equipage1 and saddles up the stairway and deposit them in a little court4 ,then they assign us eight or ten rooms for our quarters4 ,our animals are once more consigned to the care of ,indian herders1 and after they are fed they are sent away to a distance of some miles4 ,there is no tree or shrub growing near the ,walpi mesa4 ,it is miles away to where the stunted cedars are found1 and the people bring curious little loads of wood on the backs of their donkeys1 it being a day's work to bring such a cargo4 ,the people have anticipated our coming1 and the wood for our use is piled in the chimney corners4 ,after supper the hours till midnight are passed in rather formal talk4 ,walpi seems to be a town of about #aej inhabitants1 ,sichumovi of less than #ajj1 and ,hano of not more than #ge4 ,hano1 or ,tewa as it is sometimes called1 has been built lately2 that is1 it cannot be more than #ajj or #bjj years old4 ,the other towns are very old2 their foundation dates back many centuries--so we gather from this talk4 ,the people of ,hano also speak a radically distinct language1 belonging to another stock of tribes4 ,they formerly lived on the ,rio ,grande1 but during some war they were driven away and were permitted to build their home here4 ,two days are spent in trading with the people1 and we pride ourselves on having made a good ethnologic collection4 ,we are especially interested in seeing the men and women spin and weave4 ,in their courtyards they have deep chambers excavated in the rocks4 ,these chambers1 #cdf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 which are called kivas1 are entered by descending ladders4 ,they are about #ah by #bd feet in size4 ,the kiva is the place of worship1 where all their ceremonies are performed1 where their cult societies meet to pray for rain and to prepare medicines and charms against fancied and real ailments and to protect themselves by sorcery from the dangers powell-canyons-#baf4;jpg ,,walpi4 ,a ,,village ,,of ,,tusayan4 of witchcraft4 ,the kivas are also places for general rendezvous1 and at night the men and women bring their work and chat and laugh1 and in their rude way make the time merry4 ,many of the tribes of ,north ,america have their cult societies1 or medicine orders1 as they are sometimes called1 but this institution has been nowhere developed more thoroughly than among the pueblo ,indians of this region4 ,i am informed that there are a great number in ,tusayan1 that a part of their ceremonies are secret and another part public1 and that the times of ceremony are also times for feasting and athletic sports4 ,here at ,walpi the great snake dance is performed4 ,for several days ,,over ,,the ,,river4 #cdg before this festival is held the people with great diligence gather snakes from the rocks and sands of the region round about and bring them to the kiva of one of their clans in great numbers1 by scores and hundreds4 ,most of these snakes are quite harmless1 but rattlesnakes abound1 and they are also caught1 for they play the most important role in the great snake dance4 ,the medicine men1 or priest doctors1 are very deft in the management of rattlesnakes4 ,when they bring them to the kiva they herd all the snakes in a great mass of writhing1 hissing1 rattling serpents4 ,for this purpose they have little wands1 to the end of each one of which a bunch of feathers is affixed4 ,if a snake attempts to leave its allotted place in the kiva the medicine man brushes it or tickles it with the feather-armed wand1 and the snake turns again to commingle with its fellows4 ,after many strange and rather wearisome ceremonies1 with dancing and invocations and ululations1 the men of the order prepare for the great performance with the snakes4 ,clothed only in loincloth1 each one seizes a snake1 and a rattlesnake is preferred if there are enough of them for all4 ,it is managed in this way3 ,the snake is teased with the feather wand and his attention occupied by one man1 while another1 standing near1 at a favorable moment seizes the snake just1 back of the head4 ,then he puts the snake in his mouth1 holding it across1 so that the head protrudes on one side and the body on the other1 which coils about his hand and arm4 ,a few inches of the head and neck are free1 and with this free portion the snake struggles1 squirming in the air2 but the attention of the snake is constantly occupied by the attendant who carries the wand4 ,then the men of the priest order carrying the snakes in their mouths arrange themselves in a line in the court and move in a procession several times about the court1 and then engage in a dance4 ,after the ceremony all of the snakes are carried to the plain and given their freedom4 ,this snake dance was not witnessed at the time of the first visit1 but an account of it was then obtained1 such as given above4 ,it has since been witnessed by myself and by others1 and carefully prepared accounts of the ceremonies have been published by different persons4 ,at last our work at ,walpi is done1 on ,october #bg1 and we arrange to leave on the morrow4 #cdh powell-canyons-#bag4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,basketry4 #cdi powell-canyons-#bah4;jpg ,,tusayan ,,basketry4 #cej powell-canyons-#bai4;jpg ,,zu ,,from ,,housetops1 ,,looking ,,east4 #cea ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,to ,,zu,i4 ,,october #bh4--,to-day we leave the ,province of ,tusayan for a journey through the ,navajo country4 ,there is quite an addition to the party now1 for we have a number of ,indians employed as freighters4 ,their asses are loaded with heavy packs of the collections we have made in the various towns of ,tusayan4 ,after a while we enter a beautiful canyon coming down from the east1 and by noon reach a spring1 where we halt for refreshment4 ,the poor little donkeys are thoroughly wearied1 but our own animals have had a long rest and have been well fed and are all fresh and active4 ,on the rocks of this canyon picture-writings are etched1 and ,i try to get some account of them from the ,indians1 but fail4 ,after lunch we start once more4 ,it is a halcyon day1 and with a companion ,i leave the train and push on for a view of the country4 ,away we gallop1 my ,indian companion and ,i1 over the country toward a great plateau which we can see in the distance4 ,the ,salahkai is covered with a beautiful forest4 ,we have an exhilarating ride4 ,when the way becomes stony and rough we must walk our horses4 ,my ,indian1 who is well mounted on a beautiful bay1 is a famous rider4 ,about his brow a kerchief is tied1 and his long hair rests on his back4 ,he has keen black eyes and a beaked nose2 about his neck he wears several dozen strings of beads1 made of nacre shining shells1 and little tablets of turkis are perforated and strung on sinew cord2 in his ears he has silver rings1 and his wrists are covered with silver bracelets4 ,his leggings are black velvet1 the material for which he has bought from some trader2 his moccasins are tan-colored and decorated with silver ornaments1 and the trappings of his horse are decorated in like manner4 ,he carries his rifle with as much ease as if it were a cane1 and rides with wonderful #ceb ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 dexterity4 ,we get on with jargon and sign language pretty well4 ,at night1 after a long ride1 ,i descend to the foot of the mesa1 and near a little lake ,i find the camp4 ,the donkey train has not arrived1 but soon one after another the ,indians come in with their packs1 and with white men1 ,oraibi ,indians1 ,walpi ,indians1 and ,navajos1 a good party is assembled4 ,october #bi4--,we have a long ride before us to-day1 for we must reach old ,fort ,defiance4 ,i stay with the train in order to keep everything moving1 for we expect to travel late in the night4 ,on the way no water is found1 but in mid-afternoon the trail leads to the brink of a canyon1 and the ,indians tell me there is water below2 so the animals are unpacked and taken down the cliff in a winding way among the rocks1 where they are supplied with water4 ,again we start2 night comes on and we are still in the forest2 the trail is good1 yet we make slow progress1 for some of the animals are weary and we have to wait from time to time for the stragglers4 ,about ten o'clock we descend from the plateau to the canyon beneath and are at old ,port ,defiance1 and the officers at the agency give us a hearty greeting4 powell-canyons-#bbj4;jpg ,,navajo ,,indian ,,with ,,silver ,,ornaments4 ,,to ,,zu,i4 #cec powell-canyons-#bba4;jpg ,,bringing ,,down ,,the ,,batten4 ,we spend the #cjth of ,october at the agency and see thousands of ,indians1 for they are gathered to receive rations and annuities4 ,it is a wild spectacle2 groups of ,indians are gambling1 there are several horse races1 and everywhere there is feasting4 ,at night the revelry is increased2 great fires are lighted1 and groups of ,indians are seen scattered about the plains4 ,november #a4--;,after a short day's ride we camp at ,rock ,spring4 ,a fountain gushes from the foot of the mesa4 ,then another day's ride #ced ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 through a land of beauty4 ,on the left there is a line of cliffs1 like the ,vermilion ,cliffs of ,utah4 ,in the same red sandstones and on the top of the cliff the ,kaibab scenery is duplicated4 ,a great tower on the cliff is known as ,navajo ,church4 ,early in the afternoon we are at ,fort ,wingate and in civilization once more4 ,the fort is on a beauti- powell-canyons-#bbb4;jpg ,,navajo ,,church1 ,,near ,,fort ,,wingate4 ,,to ,,zu #cee ful site at the foot of the ,zui ,plateau4 ,and now our journey with the pack train is ended1 and ,i bid good-by to my ,indian friends4 ,my own pack train is to go back to ,utah1 while from ,fort ,wingate ,i expect to go to ,santa ,fe in an ambulance4 ,but the region about is of interest for its wonderful geologic structure and for the many ruins of ancient pueblos found in the neighborhood4 ,on the #b;d of ,november ,captain ,johnson1 an artillery officer1 takes me for a ride among the ruins4 ,many of these ancient structures are found1 but those which are of the most interest are the round towers4 ,nothing remains of these but the bare walls4 ,they average from #ah to #bj feet in diameter1 and are usually two or three stories high4 ,probably they were built as places of worship4 ,above ,fort ,wingate there is a great plateau2 below1 there stretches a vast desert plain with mesas and buttes4 ,the ruins are at the foot of the plateau where the streams come down from the pine-clad heights4 ,on the #c;d of ,november with a party of officers ,i visit ,zu in an ambulance4 ,the journey is #dj miles1 along the foot of the plateau half the way1 and then we turn into the desert valley1 in the midst of which runs the ,zui ,river1 sometimes in canyons cut in black lava4 ,zu is a town much like those already visited1 except that it is a little larger4 ,nothing can be more repulsive than the appearance of the streets2 irregular1 crowded1 and filthy1 in which dogs1 asses1 and ,indians are mingled in confusion4 ,in the distance ,toyalone is seen1 a great butte on which an extensive ruin is found1 the more ancient home of powell-canyons-#bbc4;jpg ,,round ,,tower ,,on ,a ,,rock4 #cef ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 these people1 though ,zui itself appears to be hundreds of years old4 ,the people speak a language radically different from that of ,tusayan1 and no other tribe in the ,united ,states has a tongue related to it4 ,in the midst of the town there is an old ,spanish church1 partly in ruins1 but it is still graced with the wooden image of a saint1 gayly colored2 and the old tongueless bell remains1 for it was sounded with a stone hammer held in the hand of the bellman2 the marks of his blows are deeply indented in the metal4 ,alvar ,nuez ,caveza de ,vaca was the first white man to see ,zui1 when he wandered in that long journey from ,florida around by the headwaters of the ,arkansas1 through what is now ,new ,mexico and ,arizona1 southward to the ,city of ,mexico4 ,he had with him a ,barbary negro1 who was killed by the ,zui1 and his burial place is still pointed out4 ,among the ,zui1 as among the tribes of ,tusayan1 the form of government which prevails throughout the ,north ,american tribes is well illustrated4 ,kinship is the tie by which the members of the tribe are bound together as a common body of people4 ,each tribe is divided into a series of clans1 and a clan is a group of people that reckon kinship through the family line4 ,the children therefore belong to the clan of the powell-canyons-#bbd4;jpg ,,toyalone1 ,,from ,,the ,,top ,,of ,a ,,house ,,in ,,zu4 #ceg ,,to ,,zu,i4 #ceg powell-canyons-#bbe4;jpg ,,typical ,,terraced ,,communal ,,pueblo4 mother4 ,marriage is always without the clan2 the husband and father must belong to a different clan from the mother and children1 and the children belong to their mother and are governed by her brothers1 or by her mother's brothers if they be still living4 ,the husband is but the guest of the wife and the clan1 and has no other authority in the family than that acquired by personal character4 ,if he is an able and wise man his advice may be taken1 but each clan is very jealous of its rights1 and the members do not submit to dictation from the guest husband4 ,the woman is#a not the ruler of the clan2 the ruler is the patriarch or elder man1 or if he is not a man of ability a younger and more able man is chosen1 who by legal fiction is recognized as the elder4 ,over the officers of the clan are the officers of the tribe1--a chief with assistant chiefs4 ,the organization by tribal governors varies from tribe to tribe4 ,sometimes the chieftaincy is hereditary in a particular clan1 but more often the chieftaincy is elective4 ,there is very little personal property among the tribal people1 such property being confined to clothing1 ornaments1 and a few inconsiderable articles4 ,the ownership of the great bulk of the property inheres in the clan1 such as their #ceh ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 houses1 their patches of land1 the food raised from the soil1 and the game caught in the chase4 ,sometimes the clans are grouped1 two or more constituting a phratry1 and then there are other officers or chiefs standing between the clan and tribal authority4 ,again1 tribes are sometimes organized into confederacies1 and a grand confederate chief recognized4 ,in addition to the chieftaincy of confederate tribes1 phratries1 and clans1 there are councils2 but these are not councils of legislation in the ordinary sense4 ,the councils are clans whose decisions become a precedent4 ,tribal law is therefore court-made law1 and such customary law grows out of the exigencies which daily life presents to the people4 ,the problems as they arise are solved as best they may be1 and the deliberations of the councils look not to the future but only to the present1 and are invoked to settle controversy1 that peace may be maintained4 ,of course there is no written constitution or body of laws1 but there are traditional regulations which are well preserved in the idioms of oral speech1 every rule of procedure or of justice being sooner or later coined into an aphorism4 ,it has been seen that a clan is a body of kinship in the female line2 but the members of the different clans are related to one another by intermarriage4 ,thus the first tie is by affinity2 but1 as fathers belong to other clans than the children1 the tie is also by consanguinity4 ,thus the entire tribe is a body of kindred1 and the tribal organization is a fabric with warp of streams of blood and powell-canyons-#bbf4;jpg ,,dancer ,,holding ,,up ,,the ,,great ,,plumed ,,arrow4 ,,to ,,zu,i4 #cei woof of marriage ties4 ,when different tribes unite to form a confederacy for offensive or defensive purposes1 artificial kinship is established4 ,one tribe perhaps is recognized as the grandfather tribe1 another is the father tribe1 a third is the elder-brother tribe1 a fourth is the younger-brother tribe1 etc4 ,in these artificial kinships the members of one tribe address the members of another tribe by kinship terms established in the treaty4 ,strangers are sometimes adopted into a clan1 and this gives them a status in the tribe4 ,the adoption is usually accomplished by the woman claiming the individual as her youngest son or daughter1 and such adopted person has thereupon the status belonging to such a natural child2 and1 though he be an adult1 he calls the child born into the clan before his advent1 though it be but a year old1 his elder brother or his elder sister4 ,then often young men are advanced in the clan because of superior ability1 and this is done by giving them a kinship rank higher than that belonging to their real age2 so that it is not infrequently found that old men address young men as their elder brothers and yield to their authority4 ,the ties of the tribe are kinship1 and authority inheres in superior age2 but in order to adjust these rules so that the abler men may be given control1 artificial kinship and artificial age are established4 ,the civil chiefs direct the daily life of the people in their labors4 powell-canyons-#bbg4;jpg ,,dancer ,,swallowing ,,the ,,great ,,plumed ,,arrow4 #cfj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 powell-canyons-#bbh4;jpg ,,navajo ,,woman ,,weaving ,a ,,belt4 ,to the civil organization of the tribe1 as thus indicated1 there is added a military organization1 and war chiefs are selected4 ,but usually these war chiefs are something more than war chiefs1 for they also constitute a constabulary to preserve peace and mete out punishment2 and young men from the various clans are designated as warriors #cfa ,,to ,,zu,i4 #cfa and advanced in military rank according to merit4 ,there is thus a brotherhood of warriors1 and every man in this brotherhood recognizes all others of the group as being elder or younger1 and so assumes or powell-canyons-#bbi4;jpg ,,navajo ,,woman ,,spinning4 #cfb powell-canyons-#bcj4;jpg ,a ,,room ,,in ,a ,,zu,i ,,house4 ,,to ,,zu,i4 #cfc yields authority in all matters pertaining to war and the enforcement of criminal law4 ,in addition to the secular government there is always a cult government4 ,in every tribe there are ,shamans1 designated variously by white men as medicine men1 priests1 priest doctors1 theurgists1 etc4 ,in many tribes1 perhaps in all1 the people are organized into ,shamanistic societies2 but that these societies are invariably recognized is not certain4 ,the ,shamans are always found4 ,among the ,zui there are thirteen of these cult societies4 ,the purpose of ,shamanistic institutions is to control the conduct of the members of the tribe in relation to mythic personages1 the mysterious beings in which the savage men believe4 ,in the mind of the savage the world is peopled by a host of mythic beings1 anthropomorphic and zoomorphic4 ,the difference between man and brute recognized in civilization1 is unrecognized in savagery4 ,all animal life is wonderful and magical co sylvan man4 ,wisdom1 cunning1 skill1 and prowess are attributed to the real animals to a degree often greater than to man2 and there are mythic animals as well as mythic men--monsters dwelling in the mountains and caves or hiding in the waters1 who make themselves invisible as they pass over the land4 ,not only are there great monsters1 beasts1 and reptiles in their mythology1 but there are wonderful insects and worms4 ,all life is miraculous and is worshiped as divine4 ,the heavenly bodies1 the sun and moon and stars1 are mythic animals1 and all of the phenomena of nature are attributed to these zoic beings4 ,for example1 the ,indian knows nothing of the ambient air4 ,the wind is the breath of some beast1 or it is a fanning which rises from under the wings of a mythic bird4 ,all the phenomena of nature1 the rising and setting of the sun1 the waxing and waning of the moon1 the shining of the stars1 the coming of comets1 the flash of meteors1 the change of seasons1 the gathering and vanishing of the clouds1 the blowing of the winds1 the falling of the rain1 the spreading of the snow1 and all other phenomena of physical nature1 are held to be the acts of these wonderful zoic deities4 ,it is deemed of prime importance that such deities should be induced to act in the interest of men4 ,thus it is that ,shamanistic government is held to be of as great importance as tribal government1 and the ,shamans are the peers of the chiefs4 ,with some tribes the cult socie- #cfd ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 ties have greater powers than the clan2 with other tribes clan government is the more important2 but always there is a conflict of authority1 and there is a perpetual war between ,shamanistic and civil government4 ,these ,shamans and cult societies have a great variety of functions to perform4 ,all disease and all injuries are attributed to mythic beings or to witchcraft1 and on these pathologic ideas the medicine practices of the people are based4 ,the medicine men are sorcerers1 who work wonders in discovering witchcraft and averting its effects or in discovering the disease-making animals and overcoming their power4 ,so the ,shamans and the cult societies are the possessors of medicine and ceremonies designed to prevent and cure human ailments4 ,they also have charge of the ceremonies necessary to avert disaster and to secure success in all the affairs of life in peace and war2 and they prescribe methods and observances and furnish charms and amulets1 and in every way possible control human conduct in its relation to the unknown4 ,no small part of savage life is devoted to cult ceremonies and observances4 ,the hunter cannot penetrate the forest without his charm2 the woman cannot plant corn until a ceremony is performed for securing the blessings of some divine being4 ,religious festivals and ceremonies are carried on for days and weeks4 ,a war must be submitted to the gods1 and a sneeze demands a prayer4 ,our arrival at ,fort ,wingate practically ended the exploration of the great valley of the ,colorado4 ,this was in #ahgj4 ,in #ahia we can look back upon the completion of the survey of all of that region1 for it has now been carefully mapped4 ,the geology of the country has been studied1 and the tribes which inhabit it have been subjects of careful research4 ,this work has been carried on by a large corps of men1 and interesting results have accrued4 #cfe powell-canyons-#bca4;jpg ,,ashtishkee1 ,a ,,navajo ,,chief4 #cff powell-canyons-#bcb4;jpg ,,navajo ,,medicine ,,lodge1 ,,viewed ,,from ,,the ,,south4 #cfg powell-canyons-#bcc4;jpg ,,navajo ,,medicine ,,lodge1 ,,viewed ,,from ,,the ,,east4 #cfh powell-canyons-#bcd4;jpg ,,navajo ,,fire ,,dance4 #cfi powell-canyons-#bce4;jpg ,,workshop ,,of ,,navajo ,,silversmith4 #cgj powell-canyons-#bcf4;jpg ,,zu ,,woman ,,weaving ,a ,,belt4 #cga powell-canyons-#bcg4;jpg ,,weaving ,,of ,,diamond-,,shaped ,,diagonals4 #cgb powell-canyons-#bch4;jpg ,,zu,i ,,fetiches4 #cgc powell-canyons-#bci4;jpg ,,effigy ,,pottery ,,from ,,zu,i4 #cgd powell-canyons-#bdj4;jpg ,,zu ,,pottery4 #cge powell-canyons-#bda4;jpg ,,zu ,,grails4 #cgf powell-canyons-#bdb4;jpg ,,culinary ,,pottery ,,from ,,zu,i4 #cgg powell-canyons-#bdc4;jpg ,,navajo ,,fabrics4 #cgh powell-canyons-#bdd4;jpg ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #cgi ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 ,,the ,grand ,canyon is a gorge #bag miles in length1 through which flows a great river with many storm-born tributaries4 ,it has a winding way1 as rivers are wont to have4 ,its banks are vast structures of adamant1 piled up in forms rarely seen in the mountains4 ,down by the river the walls are composed of black gneiss1 slates1 and schists1 all greatly implicated and traversed by dikes of granite4 ,let this formation be called the black gneiss4 ,it is usually about #hjj feet in thickness4 ,then over the black gneiss are found #hjj feet of quartzites1 usually in very thin beds of many colors1 but exceedingly hard1 and ringing under the hammer like phonolite4 ,these beds are dipping and unconformable with the rocks above2 while they make but #hjj feet of the wall or less1 they have a geological thickness of #ab1jjj feet4 ,set up a row of books aslant2 it is #aj inches from the shelf to the top of the line of books1 but there may be #c feet of the books measured directly through the leaves4 ,so these quartzites are aslant1 and though of great geologic thickness1 they make but #hjj feet of the wall4 ,your books may have many-colored bindings and differ greatly in their contents2 so these quartzites vary greatly from place to place along the wall1 and in many places they entirely disappear4 ,let us call this formation the variegated quartzite4 ,above the quartzites there are #ejj feet of sandstones4 ,they are of a greenish hue1 but are mottled with spots of brown and black by iron stains4 ,they usually stand in a bold cliff1 weathered in alcoves4 ,let this formation be called the cliff sandstone4 ,above the cliff sandstone there are #gjj feet of bedded sandstones and limestones1 which are massive sometimes and sometimes broken into #chj ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 thin strata4 ,these rocks are often weathered in deep alcoves4 ,let this formation be called the alcove sandstone4 ,over the alcove sandstone there are #a1fjj feet of limestone1 in many places a beautiful marble1 as in ,marble ,canyon4 ,as it appears along the ,grand ,canyon it is always stained a brilliant red1 for immediately over it there are thin seams of iron1 and the storms have painted these limestones with pigments from above4 ,altogether this is the red-wall group4 ,it is chiefly limestone4 ,let it be called the red wall limestone4 ,above the red wall there are #hjj feet of gray and bright red sandstone1 alternating in beds that look like vast ribbons of landscape4 ,let it be called the banded sandstone4 ,and over all1 at the top of the wall1 is the ,aubrey limestone1 #a1jjj feet in thickness4 ,this ,aubrey has much gypsum in it1 great beds of alabaster that are pure white in comparison with the great body of limestone below4 ,in the same limestone there are enormous beds of chert1 agates1 and carnelians4 ,this limestone is especially remarkable for its pinnacles and towers4 ,let it be called the tower limestone4 ,now recapitulate3 ,the black gneiss below1 #hjj feet in thickness2 the variegated quartzite1 #hjj feet in thickness2 the cliff sandstone1 #ejj feet in thickness2 the alcove sandstone1 #gjj feet in thickness2 the red wall limestone1 #a1fjj feet in thickness2 the banded sandstone1 #hjj feet in thickness2 the tower limestone1 #a1jjj feet in thickness4 ,these are the elements with which the walls are constructed1 from black buttress below to alabaster tower above4 ,all of these elements weather in different forms and are painted in different colors1 so that the wall presents a highly complex facade4 ,a wall of homogeneous granite1 like that in the ,yosemite1 is but a naked wall1 whether it be #a1jjj or #e1jjj feet high4 ,hundreds and thousands of feet mean nothing to the eye when they stand in a meaningless front4 ,a mountain covered by pure snow #aj1jjj feet high has but little more effect on the imagination than a mountain of snow #a1jjj feet high--it is but more of the same thing2 but a facade of seven systems of rock has its sublimity multiplied sevenfold4 ,let the effect of this multiplied facade be more clearly realized4 ,stand by the river side at some point where only the black gneiss #cha powell-canyons-#bde4;jpg ,a ,,gable ,,with ,,pinnacles4 #chb powell-canyons-#bdf4;jpg ,,niches ,,or ,,panels ,,the ,,red ,,wall ,,limestone4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #chc is seen4 ,a precipitous wall of mountain rises over the river1 with crag and pinnacle and cliff in black and brown1 and through it runs an angular pattern of red and gray dikes of granite4 ,it is but a mountain cliff which may be repeated in many parts of the world1 except that it is singularly naked of vegetation1 and the few plants that find footing are of strange tropical varieties and are conspicuous because of their infrequency4 ,now climb #hjj feet and a point of view is reached where the variegated quartzites are seen4 ,at the summit of the black gneiss a terrace is found1 and1 set back of this terrace1 walls of elaborate sculpture appear1 #hjj feet in height4 ,this is due to the fact that though the rocks are exceedingly hard they are in very thin layers or strata1 and these strata are not horizontal1 but stand sometimes on edge1 sometimes highly inclined1 and sometimes gently inclined4 ,in these variegated beds there are many deep recesses and sharp salients1 everywhere set with crags1 and the wall is buttressed by a steep talus in many places4 ,in the sheen of the midday sun1 these rocks1 which are besprinkled with quartz crystals1 gleam like walls of diamonds4 ,a climb of #hjj feet over the variegated beds and the foot of the cliff sandstone is reached4 ,it is usually olive green1 with spots of brown and black1 and presents #ejj feet of vertical wall over the variegated sand- stone4 ,the dark green is in fine contrast with the variegated beds below and the red wall above4 ,climb these #ejj feet and you stand on the cliff sandstone4 ,a terrace appears1 and sometimes a wall of terraces set with alcoves of marvelous structure4 ,climb to the summit of this alcove sandstone--#gjj feet--and you stand at the foot of the red wall limestone4 ,sometimes this stands in two1 three1 or four ,cyclopean steps--a mighty stairway4 ,oftener the red wall stands in a vertical cliff #a1fjj feet high4 ,it is the most conspicuous feature of the grand facade and imparts its chief characteristic4 ,all below is but a foundation for it2 all above1 but an entablature and sky-line of gable1 tower1 pinnacle1 and spire4 ,it is not a plain1 unbroken wall1 but is broken into vast amphitheaters1 often miles abound1 between great angular salients4 ,the amphitheaters also are broken into great niches that are sometimes vast chambers and sometimes royal arches #ejj or #a1jjj feet in height4 #chd powell-canyons-#bdg4;jpg ,,bounded ,,inward ,,curves ,,and ,,projecting ,,cusps ,,of ,,the ,,walls4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #che ,over the red wall limestone1 with its amphitheaters1 chambers1 niches1 and royal arches--a climb of #a1fjj feet--is the banded sandstone1 the entablature over the niched and columned marble1 an adamantine molding #hjj feet in thickness1 stretching along the walls of the canyon through hundreds of miles4 ,this banded sandstone has massive strata separated by friable shales4 ,the massive strata are the horizontal elements in the entablature1 but the intervening shales are carved with a beautiful fretwork of vertical forms1 the sculpture of the rills4 ,the massive sandstones are white1 gray1 blue1 and purple1 but the shales are a brilliant red2 thus variously colored bands of massive rock are separated by bands of vertically carved shales of a brilliant hue4 ,on these highly colored beds the tower limestone is found1 #a1jjj feet in height4 ,everywhere this is carved into towers1 minarets1 and domes1 gray and cold1 golden and warm1 alabaster and pure1 in wonderful variety4 ,such are the vertical elements of which the ,grand ,canyon facade is composed4 ,its horizontal elements must next be considered4 ,the river meanders in great curves1 which are themselves broken into curves of smaller magnitude4 ,the streams that head far back in the plateau on either side come down in gorges and break the wall into sections4 ,each lateral canyon has a secondary system of laterals1 and the secondary canyons are broken by tertiary canyons2 so the crags are forever branching1 like the limbs of an oak4 ,that which has been described as a wall is such only in its grand effect4 ,in detail it is a series of structures separated by a ramification of canyons1 each having its own walls4 ,thus1 in passing down the canyon it seems to be inclosed by walls1 but oftener by salients--towering structures that stand between canyons that run back into the plateau4 ,sometimes gorges of the second or third order have met before reaching the brink of the ,grand ,canyon1 and then great salients are cut off from the wall and stand out as buttes--huge pavilions in the architecture of the canyon4 ,the scenic elements thus described are fused and combined in very different ways4 ,we measured the length of the ,grand ,canyon by the length of the river running through it1 but the running extent of wall cannot be measured in this manner4 ,in the black gneiss1 which is at the bottom1 the wall may stand above the river for a few hundred yards or a #chf ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 mile or two2 then1 to follow the foot of the wall1 you must pass into a lateral canyon for a long distance1 perhaps miles1 and then back again on the other side of the lateral canyon2 then along by the river until another lateral canyon is reached1 which must be headed in the black gneiss4 ,so1 for a dozen miles of river through the gneiss1 there may be a hundred miles of wall on either side4 ,climbing to the summit of the black gneiss and following the wall in the variegated quartzite1 it is found to be stretched out to a still greater length1 for it is cut with more lateral gorges4 ,in like manner1 there is yet greater length of the mottled1 or alcove1 sandstone wall2 and the red wall is still farther stretched out in ever branching gorges4 ,to make the distance for ten miles along the river by walking along the top of the red wall1 it would be necessary to travel several hundred miles4 ,the length of the wall reaches its maximum in the banded sandstone1 which is terraced more than any of the other formations4 ,the tower limestone wall is less tortuous4 ,to start at the head of the ,grand ,canyon on one of the terraces of the banded sandstone and follow it to the foot of the ,grand ,canyon1 which by river is a distance of #bag miles1 it would be necessary to travel many thousand miles by the winding ,way2 that is1 the banded wall is many thousand miles in length4 ,stand at some point on the brink of the ,grand ,canyon where you can overlook the river1 and the details of the structure1 the vast labyrinth of gorges of which it is composed1 are scarcely noticed2 the elements are lost in the grand effect1 and a broad1 deep1 flaring gorge of many colors is seen4 ,but stand down among these gorges and the landscape seems to be composed of huge vertical elements of wonderful form4 ,above1 it is an open1 sunny gorge2 below1 it is deep and gloomy4 ,above1 it is a chasm2 below1 it is a stairway from gloom to heaven4 ,the traveler in the region of mountains sees vast masses piled up in gentle declivities to the clouds4 ,to see mountains in this way is to appreciate the masses of which they are composed4 ,but the climber among the glaciers sees the elements of which this mass is composed1--that it is made of cliffs and towers and pinnacles1 with intervening gorges1 and the smooth billows of granite seen from afar are transformed into cliffs and caves and towers and minarets4 ,these two aspects of mountain scenery have been seized by painters1 and in their art #chg powell-canyons-#bdh4;jpg ,,the ,,eastern ,,temple4 #chh powell-canyons-#bdi4;jpg ,,the ,,western ,,temple4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #chi two classes of mountains are represented3 mountains with towering forms that seem ready to topple in the first storm1 and mountains in masses that seem to frown defiance at the tempests4 ,both classes have told the truth4 ,the two aspects are sometimes caught by our painters severally2 sometimes they are combined4 ,church paints a mountain like a kingdom of glory4 ,bierstadt paints a mountain cliff where an eagle is lost from sight ere he reaches the summit4 ,thomas ,moran marries these great characteristics1 and in his infinite masses cliffs of immeasurable height are seen4 ,thus the elements of the facade of the ,grand ,canyon change vertically and horizontally4 ,the details of structure can be seen only at close view1 but grand effects of structure can be witnessed in great panoramic scenes4 ,seen in detail1 gorges and precipices appear2 seen at a distance1 in comprehensive views1 vast massive structures are presented4 ,the traveler on the brink looks from afar and is overwhelmed with the sublimity of massive forms2 the traveler among the gorges stands in the presence of awful mysteries1 profound1 solemn1 and gloomy4 ,for #h or #aj miles below the mouth of the ,little ,colorado1 the river is in the variegated quartzites1 and a wonderful fretwork of forms and colors1 peculiar to this rock1 stretches back for miles to a labyrinth of the red wall cliff2 then below1 the black gneiss is entered and soon has reached an altitude of #hjj feet and sometimes more than #a1jjj feet2 and upon this black gneiss all the other structures in their wonderful colors are lifted4 ,these continue for about #gj miles1 when the black gneiss below is lost1 for the walls are dropped down by the ,west ,kaibab ,fault1 and the river flows in the quartzites4 ,then for #hj miles the mottled1 or alcove1 sandstones are found in the river bed4 ,the course of the canyon is a little south of west and is comparatively straight4 ,at the top of the red wall limestone there is a broad terrace1 two or three miles in width1 composed of hills of wonderful forms carved in the banded beds1 and back of this is seen a cliff in the tower limestone4 ,along the lower course of this stretch the whole character of the canyon is changed by another set of complicating conditions4 ,we have now reached a region of volcanic activity4 ,after the canyons were cut nearly to their present depth1 #cij ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 lavas poured out and volcanoes were built on the walls of the canyon1 but not in the canyon itself1 though at places rivers of molten rock rolled down the walls into the ,colorado4 ,the next #hj miles of the canyon is a compound of that found where the river is in the black gneiss and that found where the dead volcanoes stand on the brink of the wall4 ,in the first stretch1 where the gneiss is at the foundation1 we have a great bend to the south1 and in the last stretch1 where the gneiss is below and the dead volcanoes above1 another great southern detour is found4 ,these two great beds are separated by #hj miles of comparatively straight river4 ,let us call this first great bend the ,kaibab reach of the canyon1 and the straight part the ,kanab reach1 for the ,kanab ,creek heads far off in the plateau to the north and joins the ,colorado at the beginning of the middle stretch4 ,the third great southern bend is the ,shiwits stretch4 ,thus there are three distinct portions of the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado3 the ,kaibab section1 characterized more by its buttes and salients2 the ,kanab section1 characterized by its comparatively straight walls with volcanoes on the brink2 and the ,shiwits section1 which is broken into great terraces with gneiss at the bottom and volcanoes at the top4 ,the ,grand ,canyon of the ,colorado is a canyon composed of many canyons4 ,it is a composite of thousands1 of tens of thousands1 of gorges4 ,in like manner1 each wall of the canyon is a composite structure1 a wall composed of many walls1 but never a repetition4 ,every one of these almost innumerable gorges is a world of beauty in itself4 ,in the ,grand ,canyon there are thousands of gorges like that below ,niagara ,palls1 and there are a thousand ,yosemites4 ,yet all these canyons unite to form one grand canyon1 the most sublime spectacle on the earth4 ,pluck up ,mt4 ,washington by the roots to the level of the sea and drop it headfirst into the ,grand ,canyon1 and the dam will not force its waters over the walls4 ,pluck up the ,blue ,ridge and hurl it into the ,grand ,canyon1 and it will not fill it4 ,the carving of the ,grand ,canyon is the work of rains and rivers4 ,the vast labyrinth of canyon by which the plateau region drained by the ,colorado is dissected is also the work of waters4 ,every river has excavated its own gorge and every creek has excavated its gorge4 ,when #cia powell-canyons-#bej4;jpg ,,granite ,,falls1 ,,kiabab ,,division1 ,,grand ,,canyon4 #cib powell-canyons-#bea4;jpg ,,dikes ,,in ,,the ,,canyon ,,wall4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #cic a shower comes in this land1 the rills carve canyons--but a little at each storm2 and though storms are far apart and the heavens above are cloudless for most of the days of the year1 still1 years are plenty in the ages1 and an intermittent rill called to life by a shower can do much work in centuries of centuries4 ,the erosion represented in the canyons1 although vast1 is but a small part of the great erosion of the region1 for between the cliffs blocks have been carried away far superior in magnitude to those necessary to fill the canyons4 ,probably there is no portion of the whole region from which there have not been more than a thousand feet degraded1 and there are districts from which more than #cj1jjj feet of rock have been carried away4 ,altogether1 there is a district of country more than #bjj1jjj square miles in extent from which on the average more than #f1jjj feet have been eroded4 ,consider a rock #bjj1jjj square miles in extent and a mile in thickness1 against which the clouds have hurled their storms and beat it into sands and the rills have carried the sands into the creeks and the creeks have carried them into the rivers and the ,colorado has carried them into the sea4 ,we think of the mountains as forming clouds about their brows1 but the clouds have formed the mountains4 ,great continental blocks are upheaved from beneath the sea by internal geologic forces that fashion the earth4 ,then the wandering clouds1 the tempest-bearing clouds1 the rainbow-decked clouds1 with mighty power and with wonderful skill1 carve out valleys and canyons and fashion hills and cliffs and mountains4 ,the clouds are the artists sublime4 ,in winter some of the characteristics of the ,grand ,canyon are emphasized4 ,the black gneiss below1 the variegated quartzite1 and the green or alcove sandstone form the foundation for the mighty red wall4 ,the banded sandstone entablature is crowned by the tower limestone4 ,in winter this is covered with snow4 ,seen from below1 these changing elements seem to graduate into the heavens1 and no plane of demarcation between wall and blue firmament can be seen4 ,the heavens constitute a portion of the facade and mount into a vast dome from wall to wall1 spanning the ,grand ,canyon with empyrean blue4 ,so the earth and the heavens are blended in one vast structure4 ,when the clouds play in the canyon1 as they often do in the rainy season1 another set of effects is produced4 ,clouds creep out of canyons #cid ,,canyons ,,of ,,the ,,colorado4 and wind into other canyons4 ,the heavens seem to be alive1 not moving as move the heavens over a plain1 in one direction with the wind1 but following the multiplied courses of these gorges4 ,in this manner the little clouds seem to be individualized1 to have wills and souls of their own1 and to be going on diverse errands--a vast assemblage of self-willed clouds1 faring here and there1 intent upon purposes hidden in their own breasts4 ,in the imagination the clouds belong to the sky1 and when they are in the canyon the skies come down into the gorges and cling to the cliffs and lift them up to immeasurable heights1 for the sky must still be far away4 ,thus they lend infinity to the walls4 ,the wonders of the ,grand ,canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech1 nor by speech itself4 ,the resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features4 ,language and illustration combined must fail4 ,the elements that unite to make the ,grand ,canyon the most sublime spectacle in nature are multifarious and exceedingly diverse4 ,the ,cyclopean forms which result from the sculpture of tempests through ages too long for man to compute1 are wrought into endless details1 to describe which would be a task equal in magnitude to that of describing the stars of the heavens or the multitudinous beauties of the forest with its traceries of foliage presented by oak and pine and poplar1 by beech and linden and hawthorn1 by tulip and lily and rose1 by fern and moss and lichen4 ,besides the elements of form1 there are elements of color1 for here the colors of the heavens are rivaled by the colors of the rocks4 ,the rainbow is not more replete with hues4 ,but form and color do not exhaust all the divine qualities of the ,grand ,canyon4 ,it is the land of music4 ,the river thunders in perpetual roar1 swelling in floods of music when the storm gods play upon the rocks and fading away in soft and low murmurs when the infinite blue of heaven is unveiled4 ,with the melody of the great tide rising and falling1 swelling and vanishing forever1 other melodies are heard in the gorges of the lateral canyons1 while the waters plunge in the rapids among the rocks or leap in great cataracts4 ,thus the ,grand ,canyon1 is a land of song4 ,mountains of music swell in the rivers1 hills of music billow in the creeks1 and meadows of music murmur in the rills that ripple over the rocks4 ,altogether it is a symphony of multitudinous melodies4 ,all this is the music of waters4 ,the adamant #cie powell-canyons-#beb4;jpg ,,pinnacles ,,of ,,the ,,kaibab4 powell-canyons-#bec4;jpg ,,vishnu',s ,,temple4 powell-canyons-#bed4;jpg ,,key ,,to ,,the ,,panorama ,,from ,,point ,,sublime4--,,looking ,,east4 ,e4 ,c4 ,eastern ,cloister4 ,f4 ,san ,fraucisco ,mount4 ,k4 ,mount ,kendricks4 #a4 ,cherty limestone4 #b4 ,upper ,aubrey limestone4 #c4 ,cross-bedded sandstone4 #d4 ,lower ,anbrey sandstone4 #e4 ,upper ,red ,wall4 #f4 ,red ,wall limestones4 #g4 ,lower ,carboniferous sandstones4 ,h4 ,hindoo ,amphitheater4 ,s4 ,shiva's ,temple4 ,r4 ,cape ,roya,l #cif powell-canyons-#bee4;jpg ,,key ,,to ,,the ,,panorama ,,from ,,point ,,sublime4--,,looking ,,west4 ,e4 ,mount ,emma4 ,i4 ,inner ,gorge4 ,p4 ,powell's ,plateau4 ,t4 ,mount ,trumbul,l #a4 ,cherty llmestone4 #b4 ,upper ,aubrey limestone #c4 ,cross-bedded sandstone #g4 ,lower ,carboniferous sandstone #h4 ,quartzite base of ,carboniferous4 #i4 ,archaean4 powell-canyons-#bef4;jpg ,a4 ,bill ,williams ,peak ,b4 ,tower of ,babel ,c4 ,colorado ,river ,f4 ,mount ,floyd4 ' ,g4 ,monnt ,sitgreaven4 ,i4 ,inner ,gorge ,,tt4 ,twin ,temples4 ,w4,c4 ,west ,cloister4 ,,key ,,to ,,the ,,panorama ,,from ,,point ,,sublime4--,,looking ,,south4 #a4 ,cherry limestone1 #bdj feet4 #c4 ,upper ,aubrey limestone1 #cbj feet #c4 ,cross-bedded sandstone1 #chj feet #d4 ,lower ,aubrey sandstones1 #iej feet4 #e4 ,upper ,red ,wall sandstones1 #djj feet4 #f4 ,red ,wall limestones1 #a4ejj fett4 #g4 ,lower ,carboniferous sandstones1 #eej fret4 #h4 ,quartzite base of ,carboniferous1 #ahj feet4 #i4 ,archaean4 powell-canyons-#beg4;jpg ,,grand ,,canyon ,,at ,,the ,,foot ,,of ,,the ,,toroweap1 ,,looking ,,east4 powell-canyons-#beh4;jpg ,,the ,,great ,,unconformity ,,at ,,the ,,head ,,of ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 ,,the ,,grand ,,canyon4 #cig foundations of the earth have been wrought into a sublime harp1 upon which the clouds of the heavens play with mighty tempests or with gentle showers4 ,the glories and the beauties of form1 color1 and sound unite in the ,grand ,canyon--forms unrivaled even by the mountains1 colors that vie with sunsets1 and sounds that span the diapason from tempest to tinkling raindrop1 from cataract to bubbling fountain4 ,but more3 it is a vast district of country4 ,were it a valley plain it would make a state4 ,it can be seen only in parts from hour to hour and from day to day and from week to week and from month to month4 ,a year scarcely suffices to see it all4 ,it has infinite variety1 and no part is ever duplicated4 ,its colors1 though many and complex at any instant1 change with the ascending and declining sun2 lights and shadows appear and vanish with the passing clouds1 and the changing seasons mark their passage in changing colors4 ,you cannot see the ,grand ,canyon in one view1 as if it were a changeless spectacle from which a curtain might be lifted1 but to see it you have to toil from month to month through its labyrinths4 ,it is a region more difficult to traverse than the ,alps or the ,himalayas1 but if strength and courage are sufficient for the task1 by a year's toil a concept of sublimity can be obtained never again to be equaled on the hither side of ,paradise4 #cii ,,index4 ,,page ,apache ,indians1 home and character of the 4444#bd ,art1 ancient1 vestiges of1 in the ,gila and ,colorado valleys 4#bd ,bad lands1 formation and characteristics of the 4444#fh1ga ,bad lands of ,green ,river 44444444#abd ,baker1 ,john1 a famous mountaineer 444444#aca ,bierstadt1 how he paints a mountain 444444#chi ,boats and cargoes1 description of 444444#aai ,bosque ,redondo1 ,navajos on a reservation at the 444#eb ,bradley1 ,g4 ,t41 a member of the expedition 44 4 4 4 4 4 4 v1 #abj ,bradley rescues others from the water 444444#bhd ,buttes1 mesas1 plateaus1 distinction between 4444#df ,canyon cutting in the upper ,colorado basin 4444#bi ,cvate or cliff dwellings of the ,tewan ,indians 4444#ef ,caves in a volcanic crater used as habitations by ,indians 4#dc ,caves in cliffs used as habitations by ,indians 4444#da ,ceremony at ,shupaulovi to bring rain 44444#cch-cdb ,chambers excavated in volcanic ashes by ,indians for habitations 4 4 #db ,chumehueva ,indians1 low condition and former home of the #bg ,church1 how he paints a mountain 444444#chi ,cinder-cone town formerly inhabited by ,indians 444#db ,cliff dwellings of the ,tewan ,indians 444444#ef ,cliff village of ,walnut ,cany on 4444444#da ,collecting specimens of the art of ,tusayan 4444#cdb-cdd ,colorado ,canyon broken by lateral canyons 4444#bi ,colorado ,desert1 singular characteristics of the 4444#bb ,crater town formerly inhabited by ,indians 4444#dc ,cult societies among the ,indiana 4444444#cfc-cfd ,death1 supposed1 of the author 4444444444 iii ,digger ,indians1 the original 44444444#bg ,dunn1 ,w4 ,h41 a member of the expedition 44444444 v1 #abj ,dunn1 ,w4 ,h41 abandons the party and is killed by ,indians 4#bhj1cbc ,freebooters of the ,plateau ,province 444444#hd ,fremont's ,peak1 height of and view from 44444#fg ,garfield1 ,j4 ,a41 insists on the publication of the history of the expedition 4 iv ,goodman1 ,frank1 a member of the expedition 4444444 v1 #abj ,goodman1 ,frank1 leaves the party 4444444#ahg ,government1 civil1 military1 and religious1 among the tribes of ,tusayan 4 #cef-cfd ,grand ,canyon1 how formed 4 4 ' 4 4 4 4#hi ,grand ,canyon1 the most sublime spectacle on earth 44#cij1cig ,grand ,canyon walls1 elements of and height of 444#bea1 #cgi-chi ,hall1 ,andrew1 a member of the expedition 4444444 v1 #abj ,hano1 a visit to 44444444444#cde ,hano1 location and language of 4444444#di ,hawkins1 ,w4 ,r41 a member of the expedition 44444444 v1 #abj ,rowland1 ,o4 ,g41 a member of the expedition 4444444 v1 #abj ,rowland1 ,seneca1 a member of the expedition 4444444 v1 #abj ,howland and ,dunn abandon the party and are killed by ,indians 4 4 #bhj1cbc ,instruments1 tools1 rations1 etc4 4444444#aai ,irrigation and hydraulic works built by the ,indians 44#bd ,irrigation developed by the ,navajo and other ,indians 44#eb1 #aaa ,killing by the ,shivwits of the three men who left the party #cbc 4 ,kinship ties among the tribes of ,north ,america 4444#cef-ceh ,kit ,carson1 leadership of1 against the ,navajos 4444#ea ,maricopa ,indians1 home and character of the 4444#bd ,marriage and kinship ties among the ,north ,american ,indians 4 4 4 #ceg-cei ,mashongnavi1 a visit to 444444444#cce #dj #j ,,index4 ,,page ,mashongnavi1 location and language of 44444#di ,medicine-man as historian1 priest1 and doctor 4 4 4 4 4 4#fe1ajf1cfc ,men who composed the exploring party 44444#abj ,mesas1 plateaus1 buttes1 distinction between 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #df ,mogollon ,escarpment1 description of the 44444#bg ,mojave ,indians1 former home and life of the 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bg ,moran1 ,thomas1 how he paints a mountain 4444#chi ,moran1 ,thomas1 painting of ,the ,chasm of the ,colorado 4 4 4 4#cbh ,myth1 ,indian1 of the origin of the ,colorado ,canyon and ,river #cg ,myth of the ,sokus ,waiunats1 or ,one-,two ,boys 444#cjc-caa ,mythic stories of the ,ute and other ,indians 4444#fe1ajg ,navajo ,indians1 home1 characteristics1 language1 art1 etc41 of the #ea ,oraibi1 a visit to 4444444444#cce ,oraibi1 collecting the arts of the people of 44444#cdb-cdd ,oraibi1 life at 44444444444#ccf-cch ,oraibi1 location and language of 4444444#di ,painted ,desert region1 description of the 44444#de ,papago ,indians1 home and character of the 44444#bd ,pestilence and war causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias 4 #aac ,pima ,indians1 home and character of the 44444#bd ,plateaus1 mesas1 buttes1 distinction between 4444#df ,powell1 ,w4 ,h41 a member of the expedition 44444444 v1 #abj ,pueblo ,indians1 languages and culture of the 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 ill ,rabbit snaring by the ,utes 44444444#aje ,rations1 clothing1 ammunition1 tools1 and scientific instruments 4 4 4 #aai ,rescued from a perilous position 4444444#afi ,ruins in the ,grand ,canyon region 444444#ajg ,ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes in the valley of the ,little ,colorado and vicinity 4444444444#di1ec ,ruins of ancient pueblo-building tribes on ,san ,francisco ,plateau #dj ,ruins of cavate or cliff dwellings of the ,tewan ,indians 4#ef ,scenic features of the ,canyon land 4444444#cb ,shivwits chief talks 4444444444#cba-cbc ,shoshone ,indians1 home and life of the 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4#ga ,shumopavi1 a visit to 444444444#cce ,shumopavi1 location and language of 444444#di ,shupaulovi1 a visit to 444444444#cch-bdb ,shupaulovi1 location and language of 444444#di ,sichumovi1 a visit to 4444444444#cde ,sichumovi1 location and language of 444444#di ,snake dance at ,walpi 444444444#cdf-cdg ,sokus ,waiunats1 or ,one-,two ,boys 4444444#cjc-caa ,spanish expeditions and conquerors in the ,southwest 44#bfj ,starting from ,green ,river ,city for the ,canyon 4 4 4 4 4 4 4#aai ,stories1 mythic1 of the ,ute and other ,indians 4444#fe1ajg ,storm below the beholder 444444444#ih ,sumner1 ,j4 ,c41 a member of the expedition 4444444 v1 #abj ,thousand ,wells 44444444444#ccd ,timber region of ,arizona1 description of the 44444#ci ,trumbull4 ,mount1 ascent of 44444444#cbd-cbe ,tusayan1 the seven pueblos of 4444444#di1cce ,tusayan1 tribes of1 government among the 44444#cef-cfd ,tusayan1 two weeks spent at 4444444#cce ,uinta ,indians1 home of the 44444444#ge ,ute ,indians1 home1 life1 dress1 etc41 of the 4 4 4 4 4 4 #bg1fb1hd1ajd ,volcanic dust1 enormous amount of1 on ,tewan ,plateau 44#ee ,walpi1 a visit to 44444444444#cde ,walpi1 location and language of 4444444#di ,war and pestilence causes of abandonment of pueblos and rancherias 4 #aac ,yellowstone ,park1 the land of geyser wonders 4444#fg ,yuma ,indians1 former home and life of the 4444#bg