,,how ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,grow ,,in ,a ,,kitchen ,,garden ,,of ,,one ,,acre4 ,,darlington ,,and ,,moll4 ,,the ,poultry ,yard4 ,,how ,,to ,,furnish ,,and ,,manage ,,it4 ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee4 ,full descriptions and large illustrations given of the leading varieties of ,land and ,water ,fowls4 ,it also contains chapters on ,,poultry ,,houses1 ,,selection ,,and ,,mating ,,of ,,stock1 ,,what ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,feed1 ,,general ,,management1 ,,dressing ,,and ,,shipping ,,poultry1 ,,eggs ,,and ,,chickens1 ,,directions ,,for ,,caponizing1 ,,diseases1 ,,how ,,to ,,raise ,,good ,,turkeys1 ,,etc41 ,,etc4 ,fully ,illustrated4 ,,the ,,new ,,edition for #ahhh contains1 besides the above1 an illustrated chapter on the training and care of ,,scotch ,,colly or ,,shepherd ,,dogs1 also new improved plans of ,poultry ,houses1 with illustration4 ,price1 #ej ,,cts4 in paper2 #ge ,,cts4 bound in cloth4 ,sent1 postpaid1 by mail1 upon receipt of price by the ,publishers1 ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa41 and at #acc ,cannon ,st41 ,london1 ,e4 ,c41 ,england4 ,,burpee',s ,,illustrated ,,catalogue of ,,thoroughbred ,,live ,,stock and ,,fancy ,,poultry sent free1 on application1 to all interested4 ,,how ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,grow ,,in ,a ,,kitchen ,,garden ,,of ,,one ,,acre4 ,,by ,e4 ,d4 ,,darlington ,,and ,l4 ,m4 ,,moll4 ,,edited ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee4 ,illustration #ahhh4 ,,published ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,,nos4 #dge ,,and #dgg ,,north ,,fifth ,,street1 ,,nos4 #dgf ,,and #dgh ,,york ,,avenue1 ,,philadelphia4 ,,copyrighted1 #ahhh1 ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,editor',s ,,preface4 ,in ,burpee's ,farm ,annual for #ahhg we offered cash prizes for the two best essays1 to be sent us by ,october1 #ahhg1 upon the subject1 8,,how ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,grow ,,in ,a ,,kitchen ,,garden ,,of ,,one ,,acre40 ,in its original form ,e4 ,d4 ,,darlington',s essay covered more fully than any other the operations and best methods to pursue in the management of the garden1 and was awarded the first prize4 ,being desirous1 however1 of making this work not only practical but thoroughly complete in all departments1 and from personal acquaintance with ,mr4 ,darlington and his gardening operations1 together with the fact that for some years he had tested numerous varieties of vegetables for us1 we arranged with him to entirely revise and enlarge his essay4 ,in compliance with our request he has entered more into detail in the directions for culture1 and has added impartial descriptions of the varieties that he has found best adapted both to the ,kitchen ,garden and the table4 ,to make the treatise more complete1 he prepared a diagram of his own kitchen garden1 which is one acre in size1 as laid out for a year's work4 ,some varieties grown are not marked in the diagram1 as they are worked in as parts of other rows1 but this is all fully explained in the body of his treatise4 ,to add to the value of the book as a plain and practical guide for the novice in gardening1 we have had illustrations engraved showing the two plans of hotbeds1 the methods of storing roots for winter use1 etc4 ,we have also inserted engravings1 mostly drawn from nature1 of the leading varieties of vegetables described in the text1 that the gardener may have an accurate idea of the form of the different varieties and may be able to tell whether his products are of the right type4 ,we take pleasure1 also1 in publishing the essay of ,miss ,l4 ,m4 ,,moll1 of ,illinois1 which was awarded the second prize4 ,we are glad to note that she has been explicit in describing the culture of some of the less generally grown varieties of salads and herbs which are valuable adjuncts to the table1 and upon which ,mr4 ,darlington has failed to treat4 ,some of the methods described in this essay are1 however1 unnecessarily laborious4 ,for instance1 the wide bed of perennials1 as described1 would require considerable hand labor to keep the soil loose and free from weeds2 while1 if planted in long rows1 horse cultivation would lessen this tedious work and would also loosen the ground to a greater depth4 ,the varieties recommended by ,miss ,moll1 while generally good1 have in some cases been surpassed by improved varieties of more recent introduction4 ,as presented in the following pages1 the two essays will1 we believe1 make this book1 for general use1 the most complete and practical treatise on gardening published4 ,such has been our earnest endeavor1 and we are confident that it will be recognized as a thoroughly trustworthy guide4 ,with careful study of its teachings1 the novice should be able to plant and successfully manage a ,kitchen ,garden1 be it one acre1 more or less1 while we trust that experienced gardeners will find much to commend and will be able to gain some new ideas4 ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee4 ,,philadelphia1 ,december #afth1 #ahhg4 ,,how ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,grow ,,in ,a ,,kitchen ,,garden ,,of ,,one ,,acre4 ,,by ,e4 ,d4 ,,darlington4 ,in order to treat this subject in detail1 ,i shall first write on what the kitchen garden should be1 where it should be1 and how to keep it in the best order to produce the desired results1 then take up 8,what to grow0 and 8,how to grow it40 ,,situation ,,of ,,the ,,garden4 ,the garden should be situated conveniently near the farm buildings1 as it should be visited frequently2 a variety of tools are needed in its care1 and each should be put away as soon as done with1 that it may be preserved in the best order for use4 ,it is often necessary to carry water to help along young transplanted stock that has been overtaken by a dry spell4 ,where the distance has to be traversed so frequently1 it naturally follows that the shorter it is the greater will be the saving in time and the less likely is the garden to be neglected4 ,the garden should be as nearly level as possible1 or1 if sloping1 not so much so as to be in danger of being washed by heavy rains4 ,if sloping1 the slope should lie to the south1 or as nearly south as possible4 ,a plantation or hedge of evergreens on the north side of the garden will be found a wonderful aid to the earliness of the garden truck and to the hardiness of the small fruit plants and roots which remain in the ground all winter2 if a woods or high hill be directly on the north and northwest of your garden1 it will answer nearly as well as the hedge of evergreens4 ,the garden should be so situated as to have good surface drainage2 without this or expensive underdraining1 it will hardly be possible to raise early or fine vegetables at any profit4 ,these ,i consider the most essential points in selecting the plot for the garden2 of course1 a good1 rich soil is to be desired1 but the gardener can1 by the liberal use of manure and thorough cultivation1 remedy a deficiency of this kind in a couple of years1 while he cannot make a favorable location for early vegetables on a north slope if he should try a lifetime4 ,by a careful study of the varieties in cultivation1 and by trials of their merits in your garden and on your table1 experience will be gained which will enable you to grow as fine vegetables and fruits on heavy soil as on light1 sandy loam1 and vice versa4 ,,the ,,soil ,,of ,,the ,,garden4 ,ground that has been worked in some cultivated farm crop1 such as corn or potatoes1 is more desirable for starting a garden than fresh sod land1 as it is more easily brought into fine condition in the early spring2 while grass is one of the hardest weeds to exterminate1 especially among small hoed crops1 such as strawberries1 onions1 beets1 etc4 ,sod land is also often full of grubs1 which work havoc among the strawberry plants and young melon and squash vines4 ,in either new ground or in the old established garden1 it will be of great advantage to put the long1 coarse manure on the ground in the fall1 and plow it well under as soon as the ground can be cleared of the summer crops4 ,the soil should be left just as it is plowed1 without harrowing1 leaving the lumps and ridges to the action of the frost4 ,this will be found of especial benefit to heavy soils that are late in drying in the spring2 it also adds a great deal to the appearance and cleanliness of the garden1 as the weeds1 old stalks1 etc41 are all cut off and burnt before plowing1 instead of being left to scatter their seeds with every winter wind4 ,the gases arising from the decaying of the coarse manure in the soil tend to lighten it1 instead of being wasted in the air1 as is the case when the manure is in heaps or in the barnyard4 ,by plowing-time in the spring the manure will have assimilated with the soil and will be thoroughly worked through the cultivated surface1 thus affording food for the crops in all stages4 ,if such manure is applied in the spring1 it will make dry or thin soil still drier1 and unless plowed well under1 where it would take the roots a long time to reach it1 will burn the young plants up if the season should happen to be a dry one4 ,the great value of compost in starting young plants is that it affords rich food in proper form for the tender young rootlets1 enabling the young plants to make a quick1 tender growth1 which is very essential if vegetables of fine quality are desired4 ,by fall manuring and plowing the whole garden is composted1 while the action of the frost on the lumps and ridges pulverizes them1 leaving the soil in a fine1 friable condition4 ,,laying ,,out ,,the ,,garden4 ,it is most convenient to have the garden as nearly square as possible1 which in our garden of one acre will be #bjh x #bjh feet4 ,this makes the length of the rows a very good measure of the quantity to be grown1 and affords as many rows to the ground as can be profitably worked1 for it is desirable that the rows should be as nearly east and west as possible1 and they should be the long way of the plot 7if not a square71 as it will result in great saving of time in planting and cultivating4 ,moving the line and drawing the cultivators out of one row and turning into the next1 takes nearly as much time as the working of the short row4 ,in plowing1 a good1 wide headland should be left at each end of the garden2 it should be wide enough to allow the horse and cultivator to come clear out from between the rows and to turn into the next row1 without damaging the plants at the ends of the rows by trampling and dragging the cultivator over them4 ,in winter1 while there is plenty of time before the spring opens1 the summer campaign should be planned--what vegetables are to be raised and what quantity of each will be needed1 in what part of the garden it will be best to plant each variety so that the pollen from different members of the same family1 such as cucumbers and cantaloupes1 will not mix and spoil each other's fine flavor4 ,if the soil is of different quality in different parts of the garden1 it should be planned so that the heavy and the lighter portions shall be occupied by such crops as will succeed best in the respective soils4 ,ease of cultivation and the rotation or succession of crops should also be considered4 ,the small-growing plants which require hand hoeing should be together1 and likewise those which are to be worked with the horse cultivator4 ,where the ground is to bear two crops--one planted after the other has matured and been taken off--it will be of advantage to have such crops together1 thus making larger plots for the replowing and a consequent saving of time and work4 ,beside these conditions in laying out a new garden1 when it comes to the second or succeeding seasons1 the crop or crops raised in the plot the year before must be taken into account4 ,the situation of the crop of each particular vegetable should be moved to another part1 as each draws certain proportions of the food elements from the soil1 and those of a different character should occupy the ground in rotation1 that the soil may be kept in the richest state4 ,thus the quality or size of the crop will not be lessened by being planted in a situation that it has depleted1 to some extent1 of its own particular food the year before4 ,reference should also be had to the kind of food which the plant requires1 as in the case of strawberries and potatoes1 which should not succeed each other without special manures1 as they both exhaust1 to a great extent1 the potash in the soil1 so that the soil1 having borne a heavy crop of one1 would of necessity make but a poor return of the other if planted in direct succession4 ,if this cannot be overcome by a change of location1 the gardener will know that the proper food elements have been depleted by the previous crop1 and must try to supply them with special manure or commercial fertilizers4 ,it is of great importance to rapid work and good gardening that all this should be arranged and settled in the gardener's mind1 or better1 plotted out on paper1 before the first plowing is done in the spring4 ,the plan being kept would be valuable in laying out the garden the succeeding year1 as it would show just where each vegetable had been grown and where the different kinds of manure had been applied4 ,if1 in addition1 the success of the various crops and notes of their growth were marked upon it1 it would form a most valuable text-book for the study of improved gardening1 each garden being an experimental station and each gardener a student in pursuit of knowledge and advancement in his work1 feeding at the same time both physical and intellectual needs4 ,,diagram ,,of ,,the ,,garden4 ,the accompanying plan may be of use to the novice in gardening on the scale suggested by our subject1 as it is planned to admit of a proportionate quantity of such vegetables and fruits as are grown in the ordinary garden1 while directions for planting and cultivating the various vegetables will be found in the special descriptions of the several varieties4 7,see p4 #af47 ,,procuring ,,the ,,seeds ,,and ,,plants4 ,illustration3 ,,key ,,to ,,diagram4 ,,row ,,no4 #a4 #be grape vines1 planted about #g feet apart4 ,the first three years these are trained to plain stakes or bean poles1 the space in the rows between the vines being planted with strawberries1 peas1 beans or some other low-growing crop1 to occupy the ground and insure good cultivation4 ,when the vines have made strong canes and have reached the tops of the poles1 a post is set at each vine and a trellis made1 as described in the chapter on grapes4 ,this row is six feet distant from the north boundary line of the garden4 ,,rows ,,no4 #b4 ,these rows are twelve feet distant from each other and from the row of grapes1 and are planted with blackberry vines1 at a distance of three feet in the rows4 ,though this may seem like a good deal of 8elbow room10 it is as close as they can be planted to keep them in good order2 if planted closer they will form an impenetrable jungle by the end of the second season4 ,,rows ,,no4 #c4 ,these two rows are planted with red and black raspberries1 the rows also twelve feet apart1 but the plants set #b feet apart in the rows4 ,,row ,,no4 #d4 ,this is planted with rhubarb1 sage and thyme1 currants and gooseberries1 and is twelve feet distant from the rows on either side4 ,,row ,,no4 #e4 ,is twelve feet from row ,no4 #d1 and is planted with asparagus1 as described in the special chapter on that vegetable4 ,,rows ,,no4 #f4 ,these two rows are to be planted with spring-set strawberries for the next year's crop1 and are four feet distant from the asparagus and from each other4 ,the strawberries are intended to be grown on the matted row plan1 and to be cultivated with the horse cultivator2 if they are to be grown in stools1 another row can be planted between them1 and the whole worked with the wheel or hand hoes4 ,,row ,,no4 #g4 ,this row is for watermelons or cantaloupes1 and the line of hills is six feet distant from the row on either side4 ,the space in the row between the hills can be planted with egg plants1 cabbage1 lettuce or such other plants as may be desired4 ,,row ,,no4 #h4 ,this row is a space four feet wide1 with room for the cultivator on either side2 this is raked fine and planted in four rows one foot apart1 the first row containing beets and carrots2 the second1 onions2 the third1 lettuce1 radishes1 etc42 the fourth1 with a dozen plants of parsley1 and the balance of the row in endive and parsnips4 ,when the two middle rows have been cut out1 the cultivator can be used to work the beets1 parsnips1 etc41 in the outside rows4 ,,row ,,no4 #i4 ,this row is three feet distant from the parsnips1 and is planted with early cauliflower and early cabbage1 with two plants of lettuce between each of the other plants1 which are set #a feet apart4 ,,rows ,,no4 #aj4 ,these are four rows of peas1 different plantings1 two kinds1 early and medium1 in each row1 in equal quantities1 rows three feet apart4 ,these are to be pulled out as soon as the crop is gathered1 and two rows of celery planted six feet apart4 ,,rows ,,no4 #aa4 ,here are four rows of early sweet corn1 in four plantings of successive kinds1 to be cleared off and followed by turnips1 drilled in rows one foot apart1 and worked with the wheel hoe2 or the seed may be broad-casted after a thorough cultivating1 when the ears of corn are well set1 without clearing the ground4 ,this is not nearly so satisfactory a plan as to wait until the ground can be cleared and drilled4 ,the rows of corn should be four feet apart4 ,,rows ,,no4 #ab4 ,two rows1 #d feet apart1 of ,lima beans1 with the poles about #b feet apart in the row4 ,,row ,,no4 #ac4 ,this row should have six feet clear on each side for the vines to run1 and is to be planted with cucumbers and squashes4 ,the space between the hills can be occupied with pepper plants or sweet corn4 ,,rows ,,no4 #ad4 ,two rows of tomatoes1 four feet apart4 ,,rows ,,no4 #ae4 ,four rows of late sweet corn1 four feet apart4 ,,rows ,,no4 #af4 ,two rows of sweet potatoes1 five feet apart and five feet from the corn and pole beans on either side4 ,,row ,,no4 #ag4 ,one row of pole snap beans4 ,about three kinds should be planted1 that they may be had in succession4 ,,rows ,,no4 #ah4 ,five rows early potatoes1 three feet apart1 plowed in when the ground is plowed in the spring4 ,when cultivated for the last time1 plant a row of late cabbage between each row of potatoes2 when the latter are ripe1 dig with a fork1 clear the ground of vines and cultivate the cabbage thoroughly4 ,,rows ,,no4 #ai4 ,sweet corn planted between the rows of berry bushes2 a large late variety will be the best for this purpose4 ,,rows ,,no4 #bj4 ,two rows of fruiting strawberries1 to be plowed under and be replaced by peas sown in ,august4 ,this1 of course1 applies only to a garden of at least a year's standing2 and the fruiting plants of strawberries will come in a fresh place each year4 ,the rows ,no4 #f being the bearing plants next season4 ,having the plan of work all settled1 the next thing is to know what is to be grown1 the varieties of each that are best adapted to the situation and soil of the garden1 and where they can be procured of the best quality4 ,under this head come the seeds needed for the vegetables and the roots1 tips and runners for the plantings of small fruits4 ,this should be done as soon as convenient1 as ,i have found by experience it is a great saving to have the entire supply of seeds on hand a week or two before it is possible to begin planting4 ,this is an important item1 as ,i have sometimes lost my crop from planting inferior seed purchased at the last moment from the commissioned seeds that are sold in the country stores4 ,it does not pay to economize or try to garden with poor seeds2 it is a waste of time and labor in planting1 and a waste of ground and manure1 as the inferior vegetables raised will hardly cover the original cost of the seed4 ,the gardener who sells his products1 unless his crops are of the best1 will soon find his trade falling off1 and will be compelled to seek new customers each market day4 ,personally1 ,i have found it more satisfactory and productive of better results to buy each season almost all the seeds needed from some reliable seedsman1 rather than to depend on those of my own saving4 ,for instance1 such as peas1 sweet corn and other vegetables1 where the earlier the crop is ready to market the greater the profit2 these mature much earlier if the seed is procured from reliable seedsmen who have their supplies grown in the ,north4 ,such northern grown seeds retain their instinct to hurry up and mature in a short season1 while in one's own saving they begin even in the first year to grow more leisurely and to accommodate themselves to the longer season4 ,in the case of peas1 those grown in ,northern ,new ,york and ,canada1 such as are sold by all our leading seedsmen1 will mature from one to two weeks earlier than those saved in our own neighborhood4 ,the northern peas are also generally free from the weevil or striped bug1 which bores the large round hole in all the home-saved peas and destroys their germinating power4 ,so it is with almost every known variety of vegetable2 each has some special locality in which it reaches a higher degree of perfection than in others less favorably situated4 ,while1 of course1 these facts are of interest to the gardener1 they are only learned after years of experience1 and it is the seedsman's business to know the peculiarities of the different varieties1 and to raise or procure his stock from the best strains grown in the most favorable localities4 ,it is for the gardener to purchase from a seedsman whom he knows to be thoroughly reliable1 and whose interest it will be to serve him with prompt shipments and carefully-selected strains of the vegetables desired4 ,all this is equally true of the nursery-man or small-fruit grower from whom the supply of roots and plants is to be purchased4 ,on no part of the farm is 8,pedigree ,stock0 of more importance than in the kitchen garden4 ,i will speak further on of the saving of seeds1 and refer now only to those which it is necessary to buy4 ,first1 it is often a saving of several days to have the seed on hand1 as it is sometimes impossible to foretell just when you will need the seed to plant a certain plot1 how soon the ground will be fit to work1 or how soon will come the opportunity1 in the press of other work2 if you have the seed at hand that part is always ready1 and this is quite an item where the garden frequently has to be attended to in the intervals of farm work4 ,next1 it is a cash saving to order all your seeds at one time4 ,if1 as is most frequently the case1 you have to send to some large city for your supply1 by procuring all that you need at one time1 you have but one freight or express charge to pay4 ,in making up your order1 stick to the old varieties that you know suit your soil and your market2 all the more if your market is your own table1 for the greatest pleasure in gardening is in testing the merits of your fruits and vegetables with the appetite engendered by their culture4 ,also take into consideration the preferences of the household department as to the cooking merits of the different varieties4 ,do not experiment with your main crop of any vegetable1 but do not neglect to try such new varieties as seem to possess merit1 for the varieties are being continually improved by good culture and selection1 as well as by hybridization or cross-breeding4 ,to have a fine garden1 the gardener must know the merits of all new and old varieties1 and be as progressive as is the successful man in any other line of business4 ,i know of nothing so interesting as watching the growth and development of some new and improved variety that has been recommended to the gardening public in the most glowing terms1 and often in glowing colors on a beautiful colored plate4 ,although ,i have been 8taken in0 fully as often as the average gardener of my experience1 ,i have been many times repaid all trouble and outlay by the numerous successes that ,i have met with and the great improvement in some of the varieties grown4 ,sometimes ,i have made quite a nice little sum out of these novelties1 when ,i have been able to sell the selected seed of the new variety to some other seedsman or to my neighbors4 ,in these new varieties1 more than in any others1 do you need to order early1 or1 instead of the seed that you desire and which is to make reputation and money for you1 8being something superior to anything ever grown before10 you may get one of those provoking little slips stating that the seedsman 8regrets to inform you that1 owing to the great demand1 the supply is exhausted for this season1 and hopes that the substituted kind will do as well40 ,,hotbeds ,,and ,,cold ,,frames4 ,with a garden of this size ,i would have hotbeds1 cold frames and rich seed beds of fine light soil2 these ,i would not have in the garden itself unless that be the most convenient place4 ,where there is time to attend to them1 they will be a measure of economy1 it being much cheaper to raise than to buy the plants1 if you use more than a few dozens1 while1 if you have the time and room1 quite a business can be done by supplying your neighbors who do not garden on such an extensive scale4 ,it is best to locate the frames on the sunny side of a barnyard wall1 or against a building that will shield them from the north wind and make a warm nook for them on sunshiny days4 ,they should be situated conveniently near both to the manure pile and to a good supply of water1 where they will constantly be under the eye in passing to and from the farm work and will not suffer neglect from being forgotten or overlooked4 ,it is quite important that there should be good drainage from these beds1 as they are most needed at a rainy time of the year2 dampness is not only injurious to the young plants1 but it also takes up a great deal of the heat which should go toward forwarding the growth of the young plants4 ,the sashes can be bought1 ready painted and glazed1 at the planing mills in most cities1 and this is much the cheapest way to procure them1 as they can often be bought for what the bare sash would cost in a small order at a country shop4 ,they come #c feet wide by #f feet in length1 and are #a to #b inches in thickness1 and if stored in the dry when not in use1 and are treated to an occasional coat of paint1 will last a lifetime4 ,three or four sash would be amply sufficient for a garden of an acre if used in succession1 sowing one lot of seed as the preceding planting is set out in the garden2 though1 of course1 more sash can be handled without any great increase of labor1 and the season much advanced by growing radishes1 lettuce1 beets1 etc41 to maturity under the glass4 ,illustration3 ,illustration showing the manner of making the hotbed when sunk below the surface of the ground4 ,in making the hotbed1 dig a trench a few inches short of six feet in width1 or as wide as the sashes will cover1 about two feet in depth and as long as the combined width of the number of sashes which you wish to use4 ,this is then to be boarded up with rough boards1 but they should be neatly joined and plastering laths or building paper tacked over the cracks1 so as not to waste the heat4 ,the back or north side of this frame should be #f or #h inches higher than the front1 so that the rain may run off the sashes4 ,the sashes held at an angle in this manner will also receive more sunlight for the front part of the bed than if front and back were level4 ,the whole frame of the bed should be banked round with the dirt thrown out1 or better with fresh stable manure1 which will help to keep it warm and will make a bank to drain away any surface water1 which1 being very cold in the spring1 would1 if allowed to penetrate the bed1 tend to chill the heat of the fermenting manure1 and consequently check the growth of the young and tender plants1 even if it did not generate that great enemy of all young plants1 fungus or mildew1 causing them to rot or 8damp off40 ,illustration3 ,illustration showing the manner of constructing a hotbed above the surface of the ground4 ,or1 if there is plenty of fresh stable manure at hand1 it can be corded in a pile two feet high and extending a foot wider than the sash frame on all sides2 and when the frame has been put in position on the heap1 the manure should be carried up on the outside nearly to the top of the boards1 making a warm jacket for the plants within4 ,a portable frame of boards is made for the sash to rest on1 twelve inches high at the back and eight inches in front4 ,this style of bed does away with any digging and secures good drainage for the bed4 ,it would probably be the most satisfactory way for the gardener1 who is also a farmer1 as the bed can easily be removed as soon as it has served its purpose for the season1 and the manure1 which has become well rotted by this time will make an excellent compost for corn1 melons1 celery1 etc4 ,the frame and sash can also be set on a good piece of ground in the fall and filled with young lettuce plants in the early part of ,october1 which will furnish salad throughout the winter4 ,the manure and litter which are to produce the heat for the bed should be thoroughly forked over and heaped together a week or ten days before the beds are to be started4 ,while a large proportion of the material should be fresh horse stable manure1 where a large quantity of heating material is needed1 it can be mixed with any litter obtainable1 such as straw1 leaves from the woods1 weeds1 cut fodder1 or anything that will furnish bulk and that will decay rapidly1 and1 by decaying1 produce heat2 when the material has all been gathered and heaped solidly together1 a good sprinkling with water1 hot1 if possible1 will aid in starting the fermentation4 ,in about a week or two1 when the heat of the heap has gone down to #ie or #ajj1 the manure should be placed in the beds and well trampled down2 it should come up to within eight inches of the front of the frame and should be covered with about three and a half or four inches of fine1 rich soil4 ,it is a good plan to sift the dirt through a coal sieve1 as it then makes a fine bed for the seeds and young plants4 ,place the sashes on as soon as this is done2 handling the manure and repacking it will produce some fresh heat and it will still be too warm to sow any seed1 but the heat will destroy such weed seeds as may be in the soil1 and the steam and gases arising from the manure will tend to put the soil in the finest possible condition for forwarding the growth of the young plants4 ,a thermometer should be placed in the soil of the bed every day or two1 to see if the temperature has fallen sufficiently to admit of sowing the seeds4 ,as soon as the temperature has fallen to about #ge2 or1 if no thermometer is at hand1 as soon as the top sod is only perceptibly warm to the palm of the hand1 the bed should be sprinkled1 and as soon as this has dried off a little1 rake it up thoroughly and sow the seed4 ,the seed will produce finer and stockier plants if sown in drills about six inches apart1 which will admit light and air to the roots of the plants1 and will permit a weekly hoeing4 ,in planting seeds1 the depth of their covering should be about five times the diameter of the seed1 and this covering should be firmly packed around them after planting4 ,the starting and planting of these beds must be calculated1 so as to have the plants ready to set out as soon as the garden can be worked4 ,in this vicinity 7,philadelphia7 the first sowing of cauliflowers1 lettuce1 beets and early cabbage should be made about ,february #aeth1 or even earlier1 depending on the forwardness of the season or of your own particular garden4 ,the plants will then be of a suitable size for transplanting by the time the early part of the garden has been plowed4 ,if the sashes are covered with old carpets or straw on cold nights1 it will be a great saving of the heating power of the manure and will prevent the young plants from being chilled4 ,the young plants should be treated to fresh air whenever the outside temperature is not too cold1 that they may not become 8drawn10 or 8spindle up0 into long1 slim stems4 ,as planting-out time approaches1 the young plants should be left uncovered as frequently as is safe1 that they may become sufficiently hardy not to miss the covering when removed to the open ground4 ,tomatoes1 peppers and egg plants and a second sowing of early cabbage should be sown in the same manner about the middle of ,march4 ,if a few extra early plants are wanted1 they can be transplanted into the earliest beds when the cabbage and other plants have been set out in the garden1 and the sash again put on4 ,if some sweet potatoes are buried about two inches deep in the dirt of one of the cabbage frames1 and kept warm1 they will produce a fine lot of sprouts1 or1 as they are called1 8sets10 which can be broken off and planted in the garden when the weather has become sufficiently warm4 ,if a number are wanted1 or there is danger of their growing too large1 they can be taken off and 8heeled in0 in another sash until planting time1 and the potatoes put back again1 as they will produce two or three crops of the sets4 ,or a hill of cucumbers can be planted in the centre of each sash as a second crop1 and by the time it would be warm enough to leave them uncovered1 these will have filled up the frame with bearing vines1 gaining at least a month on those planted in the open ground4 ,while the cabbage1 cauliflower1 beets and lettuce may be planted out as soon as all danger of frost is over1 the tomatoes1 peppers1 egg plants1 etc41 should not be set out until the thermometer stands at over #fj all night1 or until the oak leaves are as large as a five-cent piece4 ,in a small hotbed it is best to have a partition between each sash and the one next to it1 so that such as are tender varieties may be kept warm and the more hardy cabbage may have plenty of fresh air1 for if the latter should become 8drawn10 all the advantages of an early start will be lost and the plants may become entirely worthless4 ,sowings of seeds for early plants may be made in the same manner as above described for hotbeds1 in cold frames1 which are the same without the artificial heat germinated by fermenting manure1 depending solely on the heat of the sun and the protection of the sash to forward the plants4 ,they can be planted about two weeks later than the dates given for the respective vegetables in hotbeds1 and the plants will be ready for setting out about the same length of time later than those raised with the artificial heat4 ,these frames can also be used for wintering over a few fall-sown cabbage plants1 which are useful in a very early season and can be kept full of parsley1 lettuce1 etc41 making a pleasant variety of greens for the table during the winter4 ,as soon as it is warm enough to dig them and bring them into fine order1 seed beds should be made in a sheltered spot of the garden1 for the sowings of late cabbage and celery1 which will be spoken of in detail under the special directions for growing these vegetables4 ,,tools4 ,although not positively necessary1 it is of great advantage to have a variety of tools for thoroughly working the soil and to facilitate the labor of planting and harvesting the crops1 and exterminating weeds4 ,if1 however1 the garden is as well cultivated as it should be1 there will be no chance for weeds to start1 as they will all be destroyed in their earliest stages4 ,while there is a general assortment of tools on every farm suitable for use in the garden1 ,i will give a short list of some especially adapted for use in the kitchen garden and the modes and purposes of using them4 ,first is the ,,plow4 ,for the first plowing in the spring1 and for the general plowing in the fall1 ,i use a large two-horse plow1 which takes a generous slice and will put the manure down as may be wished and return the enriched soil to the surface in the spring1 again turning in another coat of manure1 if it is to be had in sufficient quantities to do so4 ,so long as the fresh manure does not come in direct contact with the young plants1 ,i do not think it is possible to put in too much1 at least in the first three years of the garden4 ,in my soil1 which is rather heavy1 ,i plow six to eight inches deep2 in light soil ,i would plow deeper1 as the roots penetrate it much more rapidly4 ,for working among the strawberries and permanent rows of small fruits1 ,i use a light one-horse plow1 with a swingle tree just wide enough to permit the horse to move freely2 this plow is also used in plowing out the potatoes and in preparing the ground for a second crop4 ,if the share is kept sharp1 as it always should be1 it will be found very useful in the cultivation of the berries1 melons1 etc41 as with a good plowman it will go deep or shallow1 or will slip around some point to be missed much easier than the cultivator4 ,when these plows are not in use ,i give the mould-board and all bright parts a coat of thick whitewash2 this keeps them from rusting1 so that plowing a single round leaves them bright and shining4 ,a coat of this on all bright tools1 spades1 hoes1 etc41 in the fall1 will keep them in the best order through the winter1 so that no time will be lost getting them into good working condition in the spring4 ,a good companion to the light plow is a one-horse ,,harrow1 of a ,v shape1 with long1 slender teeth4 ,it is a splendid tool for making a good1 deep bed of fine earth for seed sowing or setting out small plants4 ,where more land has been plowed than is needed for immediate planting1 ,i run over it with this implement when working the balance of the garden1 so keeping it clear of weeds and in fine condition for planting4 ,it is especially convenient to have the ground in this shape for planting cabbage1 celery1 tomatoes1 etc41 as you can take advantage of a good shower to set them out while the ground is thoroughly wet4 ,my plan is to commence planting when the rain begins1 the fresh plants having the full benefit of the shower4 ,the ,,roller and the ,harrow generally go in succession1 and a light one-horse roller will be found very convenient1 but the large farm roller will do equally good work where one is at hand and there is room for it to be used4 ,a small hand roller1 about three feet in width1 for rolling in small drilled seeds1 such as beets1 onions1 turnips1 etc41 and by which the dirt can be settled over a row of peas or corn when only a few rows are planted at once1 will many times repay the labor of making it4 ,a piece of six- or eight-inch drain pipe1 with the bell knocked off1 an iron bar run through the centre for an axle1 and the whole inside filled with mortar or concrete and allowed to get perfectly hard1 will make as fine a hand roller as need be1 or one can very easily be made from a smooth section of a tree trunk4 ,this implement would probably be much more useful than the one-horse roller4 ,it always pays to roll ground every time it is plowed1 and too much stress cannot be laid on the value of firmly compacting the soil around freshly sown seed4 ,the ,,cultivator is the most important and most frequently used tool in the garden1 and should be of the best make obtainable4 ,i consider the ,,iron ,,age or ,,planet1 ,,jr41 the best1 they having a light iron frame which is very strong without being clumsy2 the spreading bars close inward1 so that they do not catch or interfere with the plants in narrow rows1 and admit of working rows not more than two feet apart1 so that the ground can be cropped to its full capacity4 ,they have a variety of adjustable and reversible teeth1 including plow1 shovel and cutting teeth1 which will throw the soil to or from the row1 or leave it loose and level2 in light soil this cultivator will loosen and let in the air seven or eight inches deep4 ,these adjustable teeth are all sharpened at each end so that they can be turned around1 so saving the number of times that they will need grinding1 as both ends can be used and one grinding suffice where it would take two in the ordinary style of teeth4 ,when worn out1 the whole set can be taken off and new ones purchased at a very moderate cost4 ,this part of the implement should be well watched and the teeth kept in good cutting condition1 as it will not only kill the weeds a great deal more thoroughly when sharp1 but will also be much lighter of draft4 ,next to the cultivator comes the ,,wheel ,,hoe or hand cultivator4 ,by the use of this implement1 roots and small growing vegetables1 such as onions1 beets1 parsnips1 lettuce1 radishes1 parsley1 etc41 may be planted and thoroughly worked in rows from six to twenty-four inches apart2 thus more than doubling the amount that can be raised by horse cultivation4 ,a good implement will not throw dirt over the small plants as the larger cultivator does1 so that the rows can be worked closely enough to avoid having to be gone over with the hand hoe after the thinning out has been done4 ,in my experience1 ,i have found that a man can hoe more ground and do it twice as deep and well in one hour with one of these implements than he could do in a day with the old style hand hoe4 ,there are numerous styles of wheel hoes on the market1 but the only good one that ,i have ever seen is 8,lee's ,wheel ,hoe10 which is made in ,philadelphia under the patent of the inventor1 who is himself a prominent trucker4 ,it is strong1 light and well built2 it has five sharp1 finger-shaped teeth back of the wheel1 which loosen and pulverize the soil1 and a broad hoe blade behind1 which travels beneath the surface1 turning the soil over and cutting off under ground any weeds which may be in its track4 ,when the soil is in good order1 it leaves it as smooth and fine as would a steel rake4 ,to obtain the best results with this tool or with the cultivator1 you should go through each row three or four times1 so as to pulverize and work over the soil thoroughly4 ,the hoe blades are of different widths1 for working rows of different widths1 a set of three going with each implement4 ,these hoes can easily be sharpened by any blacksmith4 ,keep them well sharpened1 and it will be surprising to note how much less muscle it takes to push them and how much better the work is done4 ,i have tried several different makes1 as ,i work an acre or more each year with one of these hoes and a 8,fire-fly0 hand plow1 which is run before the wheel hoe when the ground is very hard1 and ,lee's is the only one that works satisfactorily4 ,when the ground is in the best condition a man can hoe the acre in a single day1 so that it will readily be seen what a labor saver it is4 ,the ,,fire-,,fly ,,hand ,,plow just spoken of is a very convenient tool for making drills1 and will plow out a furrow from one to four inches deep1 for sowing peas1 corn1 beans1 etc41 and coming back alongside of the open furrow will cover them nicely1 not taking one-quarter of the time necessary to make the drill with a hoe and cover with a rake1 as it is ordinarily done4 ,it is also very handy to strike out a furrow in this way when planting strawberries1 cabbages1 tomatoes1 etc41 especially where two are employed on the same work1 as one can strike out the furrows1 and drop a plant where each one is to stand1 while the other1 following1 sets the plant with one hand and with the other pulls in and places the loose covering dirt1 and finally tramps the soil firmly round the new-set plants with his feet4 ,these two last-mentioned tools are very useful in the ordinary small garden2 they enable the work to be done much more quickly and very much more thoroughly than is often the case1 the spring spading being generally the only good stirring the soil gets in the season4 ,a ,,seed ,,drill is a very handy tool1 but it is quite expensive4 ,in the kitchen garden there is seldom more than one or two rows across the garden to be sown with any one kind of seed1 and this can be done almost in the time it would take to adjust the drill1 although the drill works a great deal more evenly than the seed can be sown by hand4 ,on a farm where root crops are raised for soiling1 the drill will be a measure of economy1 even for a single season1 and can readily be used in the garden4 ,the combined implements1 with plowing and hoeing attachments1 are 8a delusion and a snare20 if you want a tool that will do good work1 and will not get out of order or break1 do not have it 8combined0 with anything else4 ,of ,,hand-,,hoes1 ,,steel ,,rakes1 ,,trowels1 ,,spades1 ,,shovels1 ,,etc41 there should be enough to furnish each man employed1 as it is frequently desirable to have all hands working on the same job4 ,of these1 the hoes1 spades and trowels should have an intimate and frequent calling acquaintance with the grind-stone4 ,it is much easier to work with a sharp hoe or spade1 and the work is much better when done4 ,there should be a good stout cotton ,,line1 long enough to reach across the garden1 and a reel to keep it on is a great convenience1 as it takes such a short time to wind it up that there is not the same temptation to leave it out all night4 ,a good cotton line1 carefully housed1 will last for years1 and is one of the most important requisites in the garden4 ,neatness is one of the essentials of good gardening1 and ,i have never known a gardener successful who was 8hit or miss0 in laying out his rows2 every plant must be squarely in the row to admit of close working with the cultivator4 ,if it is necessary to keep a few inches away from the row to avoid cutting the stragglers1 either the soil is not loosened around the plant as it should be1 or it has to be gone over with the hand hoe1 which consumes time in a large garden4 ,,planting ,,the ,,garden4 ,it is common in most gardens to plant blackberries1 raspberries1 currants1 etc41 around the fences4 ,this is not only a waste of half the fruit1 as it can only be borne on one side1 but involves much needless labor in keeping the plants trimmed and worked1 and unless hoed frequently the plot becomes a harbor for weeds4 ,the only advantage in so planting is the protection the fence affords in winter1 as it catches the flying leaves and weeds in the fall1 and these with the shade afforded by the fence and drifted snow make a natural protection for the roots and canes4 ,it is not the severity of the frost which determines the hardiness of a plant1 so much as its ability to withstand freezing and thawing in rapid succession4 ,for this reason ,i would have the small fruits planted at the north side of the garden1 especially if it be the highest part1 and if there is some kind of wind-break or protection1 as this will cause the snow to drift and lie longer1 making a natural covering1 while the slope will drain the surface water quickly away1 so that it does not form hard ice around the crowns4 ,if it were possible1 ,i would prefer to have no fence around the garden1 as it makes it much easier to keep clean4 ,a fence is always a nuisance and waste of ground unless absolutely necessary2 but if a fence is needed1 have one that will not only keep out stock1 but also the gardener's most aggravating enemy1 the poultry4 ,a scratching hen seems to have an instinct which tells her as soon as the seed has been planted1 and which are the hills containing the choicest varieties4 ,in plowing the ground in the early spring1 ,i think it is best not to plow more than is needed for the first planting1 and to plow the remainder somewhat later1 when it has become more dry and friable1 as it will not then become packed and hard again by the heavy spring rains4 ,for the first planting the ground should be plowed and planted as soon as it can be got in order2 the hardier vegetables will even stand a light frost1 and while adapting their growth to the weather1 will be ready to take advantage of the first warm spring days4 ,i shall speak of the time of planting and sowing in the chapters devoted to the separate treatment of the different vegetables4 ,the following simple test will be of use to the novice in determining not only when to plow1 but also when to cultivate and hoe the ground4 ,take a portion of the soil in the hand and try to press it into a ball2 if it makes a ball and sticks to the hand it is too wet1 while if it crushes hard it is too dry4 ,in both cases1 if worked in this condition1 it will be left in a hard and lumpy state1 that will take a long time to bring into good order4 ,to be in good working condition the soil should crumble easily and finely in the hand1 and should leave no dirt adhering to the fingers4 ,it will not only give the best results when worked in this state1 but it can also be done in half the time4 ,sometimes we cannot wait until the ground is in the very best order1 as in a drought in summer1 when it is needed for the second crop4 ,in such a case it must be brought into as fine condition as possible by repeated harrowing and rolling2 the latter is an operation too frequently neglected in the ordinary garden2 every farmer knows the value of having the soil firmly compacted round the fresh-sown grain1 and it is of equal value in every variety of seed sown in the garden4 ,where there is not room for the roller to be used after sowing a row1 ,i always have it pressed in by the broad sole of the gardener's boot1 which nature usually provides shall be of generous size4 ,it is even more important that the soil should be firmly pressed around the roots of newly-set plants1 as if this is not done the first heavy rain uses the roots as water courses1 and deprived of contact with the soil1 the roots rot off and the plants are stunted or die4 ,among the first things to be planted in the spring are the small fruits1 such as grapes1 blackberries1 raspberries1 currants1 strawberries1 etc4 ,these should all be in the kitchen garden1 and with them the rhubarb and asparagus beds1 where they can and will be cultivated as well as the vegetables1 the soil kept loose and free from weeds1 that they may devote their energies to making strong canes and bearing fine fruit1 instead of wasting their strength in a continuous battle for life with grass and weeds1 leaving them an easy prey to insects and disease4 ,those who have never given them this thorough cultivation will be surprised at the large crops and superior quality of the fruit that can be raised under these favorable circumstances4 ,these fruits1 when once planted1 with the exception of strawberries1 last for many years if well manured1 trimmed and cultivated4 ,they should all be at one side of the garden1 where they will not be in the way of working the garden with the large plow in the spring and fall1 but should have their own plowing with the small plow1 two to four inches in depth1 spring and fall4 ,in the fall plowing the furrows should be turned toward the row1 which will bank them up slightly and afford additional protection through the winter4 ,in the spring this ridge can be worked down level again with the plow and cultivator1 the dirt from around the crowns being drawn away with an ordinary hand hoe4 ,in planting the rows in the spring1 the width of the cultivator and swingle tree must be taken into account4 ,if the ground has been heavily manured the vegetables can be planted as closely as will admit of working1 and allowing a good supply of light and air to the roots1 excepting melons1 and other vines1 which should have plenty of room in which to spread and sun themselves4 ,thus1 peas1 beets1 bush beans1 etc41 can be sowed as closely as two and one-half feet apart1 while corn1 pole beans1 etc41 which grow as high as the horse's sides and the cultivator handles1 should have the rows four or four and one-half feet apart1 not only to allow of working but to admit of the sunshine and air penetrating to the roots4 ,,what ,,to ,,grow4 ,,asparagus4 ,this is the earliest vegetable to be ready for use in the spring1 excepting those that have been forwarded under glass4 ,while it is quite hardy and withstands much ill treatment1 nothing will better repay careful culture and generous feeding4 ,one row across the kitchen garden would make a liberal supply for an average family4 ,the seed should be sown where the row is to stand1 and the young plants thinned out until they stand one foot apart in the row4 ,this should be done as soon as they are three or four inches high and well started2 if left longer it will be a very troublesome job4 ,these young plants should have every encouragement of manure and cultivation1 to make as strong a growth as possible2 the stronger and faster they grow the better will be the size and quality of the shoots when old enough to cut4 ,no shoots should be cut until the third spring after sowing1 and then should not be cut too long the first season4 ,the fourth and succeeding seasons it may be cut from the time the first shoots appear until the first peas and lettuce are ready to take its place on the table4 ,then it should be well worked and allowed to attain its full growth1 that strength may be stored in the crowns to furnish the shoots for the next season's cutting4 ,as soon as the tops begin to yellow1 and the berries to ripen in the fall1 it should be mowed off close to the ground and the tops burnt1 taking care that all the seeds are consumed2 if left on the plants all winter the seed becomes scattered1 and1 owing to its capacity for sending up shoots1 it is a very difficult weed to exterminate4 ,if you do not wish the labor of sowing the seed and tending the young plants1 a year can be gained by purchasing the plants4 ,the one-year old plants are preferable unless the older ones have been transplanted each year1 as they are gross feeders1 and become stunted if allowed to crowd each other while young4 ,to produce the large1 fat shoots1 it is necessary that the seed shall have been saved from the strongest shoots obtainable1 and the plants fed constantly4 ,the best way is to cover the crowns1 after the ground is frozen in the fall1 with as much manure as can be spared1 and work it down to the roots in the spring as soon as it can be forked in2 or1 if there are several rows1 the manure could be placed on them thickly and the soil ridged over it for the winter by throwing up a couple of shallow furrows with the plow2 this to be worked down with a sharp harrow in the spring4 ,as soon as it is dry enough in the spring1 the soil and manure of the bed should be lightly forked over with a manure fork and the surface raked fine2 the reason for using the stable fork is that the tines are slightly curved1 and if the handle is held in a nearly horizontal position the bed can be dug down to the roots1 and the fork will slide right over the tops of the crowns without injuring them4 ,where more than one row is desired they should be planted about three feet apart1 to admit of cultivation and free access to the beds for cutting4 ,an advantage in sowing the seed is that the crowns are naturally established at a proper depth4 ,in planting the crowns obtained from the nursery-man they should be set at a depth of three or four inches at the most2 not one foot under the surface1 as is the common practice of truckers4 ,market gardeners cut the shoots as soon as the tips appear above the surface1 so that their shoots are blanched for their whole length2 but they do this at the expense of the table quality1 as only the tips are edible in this way1 and even these taste very much like old hay to any one who has been accustomed to the richness and delicate flavor of shoots cut at the surface when they are from three to four inches in height2 this method has also the advantage of not destroying the young shoots just coming up1 as the stalks are only cut an inch or so underground1 and the knife only reaches the one intended to be cut4 ,if the appearance of the blanched asparagus is desired1 it can be much better obtained 7that is1 with less sacrifice of quality7 by placing four or five inches of hay1 straw or other litter over the crowns1 which can be pushed away from the stalk when cutting and easily replaced4 ,there is another strong reason for not following the deep planting1 as usually practiced1 and that is1 in having your crowns so much nearer the surface they feel the warming and growing influence of the sun sooner in the season1 and you are able to have your asparagus for cutting a full week earlier than your neighbor who plants deep4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,asparagus4 ,as mentioned above1 this succulent is capable of great improvement by careful selection of seed from the best stalks4 ,the old ,purple ,top variety is no longer grown1 its place having been taken by the larger shoots and better quality of the variety known as ,conover's ,colossal4 ,this latter1 however1 has been propagated so extensively and with so little care that it is now almost impossible to obtain seed or plants that will produce the splendid shoots of the original stock4 ,of the new varieties ,barr's ,mammoth seems to be the most promising1 and as grown in some fields in the vicinity of ,philadelphia produces shoots which will average nearly an inch in diameter4 ,,beans4 ,the first planting of snaps or dwarf bush beans can be made when the first planting of peas and beets are sown1 but will not do as well nor produce beans of as fine quality as those planted about two weeks later1 when the weather has become warmer and more settled4 ,these yield very abundantly1 and a drill fifty feet long will produce as many as can be used in a large family4 ,while planting in a drill1 for the sake of convenience and quickness in planting1 the seed should be dropped in hills about ten inches apart and five seeds to a hill4 ,if the beans are kept picked closely1 the plants will continue longer in bearing1 and they may be had throughout the season if successive plantings are made1 though the pole snaps are to be preferred through the summer and fall1 for their greater bearing qualities and the ease of gathering them4 ,in both the bush and pole snaps1 care should be taken to secure varieties that are entirely stringless1 as they are not only much easier to prepare for use1 but are much more tender4 ,the different 8,wax0 varieties are very fine1 but the bush beans of this class have not done well in this locality for the last three seasons1 the pods being covered with a species of black spot or rot that spoils fully two-thirds of them4#a ,the pole beans should not be planted until the ground is thoroughly warmed in the spring1 or until the thermometer stands over #fj all night4 ,it is quite common to plant these with poles #h to #i feet in height4 ,i think this is a mistake1 as no ordinary picker can reach higher than about six feet to advantage1 and as the vines grow to the tops of the poles before commencing to fruit1 both beans and time are lost4 ,the poles should be set in rows four and one-half feet apart and two and one-half to three feet apart in the rows4 ,two hundred poles of ,limas will furnish an ample supply throughout the season1 and will ripen a bushel of dried beans for winter use as well4 ,twenty-five poles will furnish an ample supply of snaps1 though we allowed one row across the garden in the diagram given1 the surplus being allowed to ripen for winter use4 ,where the saving of room is an object and the ground has been well manured1 these pole snaps can be planted in the hills of corn1 and allowed to use the stalks as poles2 they will produce a good crop1 but not nearly so many1 nor are they as easy to pick as when grown on the poles4 ,for this purpose they should be planted with some strong growing variety of corn1 such as ,stowell's ,evergreen or other late variety4 ,the white soup bean1 that is dried for winter use in various ways1 including the famous 8,boston ,baked ,beans10 is generally grown by dropping one or two hills between each hill of corn1 and instead of picking them1 the whole plant is pulled up in the fall1 and the beans thrashed out with a flail when dry4 ,for ,limas and pole snaps1 the poles should be set by the aid of the garden line1 and where any pole is bowed or crooked it should be planted so as to bring it in line with the row1 lengthwise1 as nearly as possible1 that they may present an orderly appearance4 ,in setting the poles1 make a hole from one to two feet deep by driving the sharp end of a crowbar into the ground1 place the butt end of the pole in this hole and ram it firmly in its place2 then put one or two shovelfuls of compost around the base of the pole1 and with a sharp steel rake make a hill of fine dirt over the compost4 ,five or six beans should be planted to each hill1 but if all grow should be thinned out to two or three4 ,if the young plants do not climb the poles readily at the first start1 they should be trained up and tied till they begin to take hold for themselves4 ,be careful1 in planting ,lima beans1 to push them into the soil with the eye down1 for1 as the first leaves are quite large and heavy1 it assists them materially in breaking through the soil to plant them in this manner4#b ,the ,limas may be brought into bearing somewhat earlier in the season by placing pieces of sod1 cut four inches square and about three inches thick1 grass side down1 in the hotbed1 and planting four or five beans in each piece2 if this is done in the latter part of ,march they will be of good size by the time it is warm enough to plant them out1 which is done by planting the piece of sod at the base of the pole1 in hills1 as prepared for the seed4 ,if the end of the vine is pinched off when it is about four or five feet up the pole1 it will assist the lateral shoots in blooming early1 and consequently produce beans earlier1 though1 like all forcing methods1 it will1 to some extent1 lessen the vigor of the vine1 and most likely1 to some extent1 the amount of the crop4 ,,bush ,,beans--,golden ,wax4--,this is one of the best bush beans2 it matures early2 the pods are of very handsome appearance1 brittle and entirely stringless2 it is a good bearer and makes an excellent shelled bean for winter use4 ,best of ,all ,dwarf ,bean4--,this is a green-podded bean1 and is probably the best for the first planting1 as it is not only very early but also very productive2 the pods are six inches long1 entirely stringless1 very fleshy and rich flavored4 ,champion ,bush ,bean4--,this is a strong grower1 attaining about fifteen to eighteen inches in height1 and an immense cropper4 ,the beans can be used as string beans in the green state1 but its chief quality lies in the superiority of the beans when dried1 and the large crops which it produces when grown for winter use4 ,illustration3 ,,best ,,of ,,all ,,dwarf ,,bean4 ,illustration3 ,,champion ,,bush ,,bean4 ,,pole ,,beans1 ,,snap ,,varieties--,golden ,wax ,flageolet4--,this bean is of recent introduction1 and is worthy of all the praise that has been bestowed upon it2 it is a tremendous bearer1 and is almost as early as the dwarf wax varieties1 the pods are much larger1 being seven to eight inches long1 round and very fleshy2 they are entirely free from strings and of the finest quality4 ,unlike the other pole beans1 it begins to produce beans at the bottom of the pole as soon as it starts to climb2 and if these are used as they mature1 it will continue in bearing the entire season4#c ,white ,creaseback1 or ,best of ,all4--,these for early and the ,lazy ,wife's for late are the best of the green-podded pole beans4 ,the pods are about six inches in length1 thick fleshed1 and of very fine quality4 ,the ,creaseback is very early and matures its crop in a short time1 thus making it a very profitable variety for market4 ,both varieties are very productive1 entirely stringless1 and of superior flavor4 ,illustration3 ,,crease ,,back ,,pole ,,bean4 ,,lazy ,,wife',s ,,pole ,,bean4 ,,limas--,extra ,early ,lima4--,this variety matures very nearly as early as the ,small ,lima1 while the beans are more nearly the size of the late ,lima2 the quality is very fine and the quantity large1 as it bears the pods in clusters of four1 with four to six beans in a pod4 ,dreer's ,improved ,lima4--,this variety is early and very productive if measured in the green state2 the pods are smaller than in the ordinary ,lima1 but the beans are very plump1 and are so close together in the pods as to crowd against each other4 ,as a green bean it is very early1 and shells out more quarts to the basket of pods than the larger varieties2 but the quality is not as fine1 and in the dry state the beans shrivel up till they are only about the size of dry bush beans1 and are not nearly so good as the other varieties4 ,king of the ,garden4--,this is a new variety1 in which the green beans are of unusual size and very fine quality4 ,i have seen half an acre planted with this variety which ,i am sure had at that time more than twice the quantity of beans that could be grown on the same ground of the ordinary kinds2 vines were loaded with clusters of pods seven to eight inches in length1 and it was no rarity to see them with five very large beans in a pod4 ,from its great productiveness and the fine quality of the beans1 it deserves the first place among the ,limas4 ,,beets4 ,seed of these should be sown when the first planting is done in the spring4 ,they may be had still earlier by planting the seed in a hotbed while the ground is still frozen1 and transplanting them to the garden a week or so after the cabbage and lettuce have been planted out4 ,care must be taken in transplanting the young beets1 that the tap-root does not get broken1 or it will make a number of fibrous roots instead of the large1 smooth globe desired for the table4 ,when the seed is well up1 the plants should be thinned out until they stand six or ten inches apart1 as the size of the variety demands4 ,a second sowing should be made about ,june #ast1 and the main sowing about the #aeth of ,july or #ast of ,august1 to raise roots for winter use4 ,these frequent sowings are necessary to have the beets of fine quality2 as the roots get older and larger they become 8woody10 or hard and fibrous1 and exceedingly tasteless4 ,where the season is short1 or there are prospects of a dry fall1 the second sowing should be large enough to produce the winter crop1 as the later one may fail to mature in time4 ,the beets may be stored and the flavor retained by the method described for pitting turnips1 and will keep in good order until spring4 ,the ,bassano and other light beets are of quick growth and are tender and palatable while young1 but are of coarse texture and not nearly so fine in appearance when cooked as the blood beets4 ,the blood beets retain their deep1 rich color1 while all the light-leaved or light-stemmed varieties are colorless1 or nearly so1 when cooked4 ,it certainly adds to the attractiveness of a dish for the vegetable to have a handsome appearance when cooked4 ,the seed should be sown in drills1 from twelve to eighteen inches apart1 if to be worked with the wheel hoe2 if for horse culture1 two and a half to three feet will have to be allowed between the rows4 ,the ground should be raked clear of clods and made as fine as possible4 ,a drill is made by drawing the rake or hoe handle along the line4 ,the drill should be about an inch in depth and the seed should be dropped about two inches apart1 thinning out to six or eight inches apart when well started1 and if it is desired1 the thinnings can be transplanted to another row4 ,if no small roller is at hand1 the drill can be covered and packed by the same operation1 by removing the line and shuffling along the row with the feet placed in a ,v1 the forepart of the foot drawing in the fine soil while the heels at the point cover and press the dirt down upon the row2 the foot1 of course1 is only moved a few inches at a time1 but with a little practice the rows can be covered in this manner quite rapidly4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,beets4 ,,eclipse4--,this is a very early beet1 of quick growth and very fine quality4 ,as the leaves of this variety are small and the stems short1 they can be grown quite closely together4 ,the roots are perfectly smooth1 regular1 globe shape1 blood-red skin and flesh1 fine grained and very sweet when cooked4 ,,edmand',s ,,early ,,turnip4--,this variety is turnip-shaped1 that is1 tapering more gradually below the shoulder than the ,eclipse2 the foliage is short and stocky1 enabling a heavy crop to be grown1 as they can be grown as closely as six inches apart2 the flesh1 of a deep blood red1 is of the finest quality4 ,illustration3 ,,edmand',s ,,early ,,turnip ,,beet4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,improved ,,blood ,,turnip ,,beet4 ,,burpee',s ,,improved ,,blood ,,turnip4--,this beet attains quite a large size and is very smooth and regular in appearance2 the flesh is deep blood red and of fine quality1 whether eaten in summer or stored for winter use2 it is one of the best varieties for the latter purpose1 and should be sown as described for the winter crop4 ,,cabbages4 ,of this vegetable two distinct crops are raised in every garden1 while many gardeners1 by successive sowings and the use of several varieties1 have them fit for use constantly from early spring until fall1 and throughout the entire winter by storage4 ,in the ordinary garden the same result may be obtained by planting larger quantities of the early and summer varieties1 and cutting them as wanted for use1 as most of them will stand the whole summer without bursting or going to seed1 and by early fall some of the winter cabbage will be large enough for use4 ,,early ,,or ,,summer ,,cabbages4--,the seed for these should be sown in a hotbed from the #ast to the #aeth of ,february4 ,as soon as the plants are large enough to set out they should be given plenty of air1 and should be gradually hardened off until they are able to stand the cool nights without protection2 but they should not be allowed to freeze4 ,treated in this way they will be ready for planting out as soon as the ground can be worked4 ,in making this sowing ,i would have it of two kinds--some of a small1 hard-heading1 early variety1 and about twice as many of a larger-heading summer kind4 ,these latter are described as second early in the seed catalogues4 ,these early cabbages need very little care except to have frequent and thorough cultivation1 as they are comparatively free from insect pests as long as they make a healthy growth4 ,if attacked by the black fly or green worm1 they should be dusted with land plaster or slug shot early in the morning1 while the dew is still on them4 ,the soil around these and all other crops that depend on quick growth for their superior qualities1 must not only be cultivated1 to kill the weeds1 but must be kept loose and well stirred1 to admit the air to the roots of the plants2 it must not be allowed to lie heavy and packed after dashing rains1 but should be stirred up as soon as dry enough4 ,the rows may be as close as can be worked with the cultivator1 say about three feet1 and the plants about one and a half feet apart in the row1 or even closer1 if the variety grown makes but small heads4 ,,late ,,or ,,winter ,,cabbage4--,as soon as the ground becomes warm in the spring1 or early in ,may1 a seed bed should be made and sown with the late varieties of cabbage and celery1 or the seed may be sown in drills in the garden2 the seed being sown in very thinly1 so as to produce plants standing about half an inch apart in the row4 ,where it can be done1 it is best to sow the seed in a special bed or cold frame1 where they can be watered and nursed to a good size by the time they are wanted for planting4 ,the ,flat ,dutch and ,drumhead types are the best for this planting1 though many prefer the ,savoys1 claiming a superior delicacy of flavor1 on account of their having more leaf surface to the number of ribs or veins2 they are not1 however1 nearly such sure headers1 nor are they as good keepers when buried4 ,it is important to get the seed sown early1 that the plants may be had of good size by the middle of ,june1 though they will make a partial crop if planted as late as the middle of ,august4 ,as these varieties make larger heads than the summer cabbages1 they cannot be planted so closely2 the rows should be #c to #c feet apart1 and the plants #b to #b feet apart in the rows4 ,these can be planted and grown between the rows of early peas1 corn or potatoes2 but ,i would prefer to wait until the first crop of corn be cleared off the ground1 as it can then be brought into much better condition4 ,it adds greatly to the labor of harvesting the first crop when the ground is so closely planted1 and the soil is apt to become hard and packed before it can be cultivated again4 ,when possible1 the young cabbage plants should be set out directly before or after a good rain1 but if there is no prospect of rain1 they should be planted in the evening and a tincupful of water should be poured in each hole before the plant is set in2 then draw the dry earth up around the stem and pack firmly around the plant2 this will enable them to withstand at least a week of dry weather4 ,if the drought should continue longer1 or they do not come up fresh in the morning after a flagging day1 they must be watered in the cool of the evening1 when the plant will have the benefit of the water all night4 ,it is waste of time to water them while the hot sun is shining1 unless they can be shaded with papers1 old pans1 etc4 ,as soon as they become well established1 the soil around them must be carefully loosened and cultivation begun4 ,to obtain the best results they must be cultivated frequently and deeply4 ,it is a common sight in some gardens to see the cabbage with stems two feet high and a small bunch of wormy leaves at the top2 a closer examination will show that the soil is hard and trampled1 and that the plants have been left to grow as best they may1 while in the well-cultivated garden the stems are short and the heads are large and solid4 ,the young plants of late cabbages are generally infested1 while in the seed bed1 with a small black fly1 which greatly checks their growth1 and sometimes entirely destroys them4 ,these can be gotten rid of1 or better1 entirely avoided1 by the application of dry road dust1 soot1 slug shot1 or land plaster1 dusted on the young leaves early in the morning1 while the dew is still on them2 this should be repeated every two or three mornings until the fly is exterminated and the plants have grown to good size4 ,when the plants have been set out and are nearly ready to head1 the green cabbage worm makes its appearance1 and if fine marketable heads are desired this pest must be destroyed4 ,many remedies for this are given1 most of which are ineffectual4 ,it is best to sprinkle well with tar water or alum water1 taking care to get it well down into the centre of the loose leaves1 using an ordinary watering pot for the purpose2 if a garden syringe is at hand1 it can be thrown into the plant much better than by sprinkling4 ,to make the tar water1 the tar is put in a barrel of water and well stirred2 then1 when it has been allowed to settle1 the water from the top is dipped off and used4 ,it should be strong enough to have quite a decided taste4 ,the alum maybe dissolved in the watering pot1 about one tablespoonful to the gallon1 and stirred till dissolved4 ,see that the solution gets well into the centre of the loose leaves just below the head1 as this is the favorite place of attack by the worms4 ,the cabbage is quite hardy and will stand considerable frost in the fall without damage1 being rather improved in quality by it4 ,by the third week in ,november they should be put in pits or the vegetable cellar2 or1 where these conveniences are not at hand1 they should be pulled up1 root and all1 the outside leaves wrapped closely around the head and stood side by side1 on their heads1 on a well-drained piece of ground2 they should be placed in a long row two or three heads wide1 and where a good many are to be buried or gotten out at once1 two additional rows may be placed on top of these1 as shown in the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,illustrations showing the manner of storing cabbage for winter use4 ,figure #a showing three rows of heads and ,figure #b1 five rows4 ,c4 ,heads of cabbage4 ,s4 ,soil banked over the heads4 ,d4 ,drainage ditches to carry off the water4 ,dry soil is then thrown on these heads to the thickness of five or six inches and the roots left sticking out of the top2 this covering should be firmly packed1 to prevent the entrance of water1 and a small gutter should be dug round the heap to carry it off4 ,if1 after the cold weather has set in and the ground is slightly frozen1 the heap is covered with three to four inches of corn fodder or litter1 it will prevent the covering from freezing so hard1 and will greatly lessen the work of getting out the heads when wanted for use4 ,when heads are wanted1 one end of the bank is opened and as many taken out as are desired2 the open end is then carefully covered over with soil4 ,too many should not be taken out at once1 as they retain their flavor better when buried in this manner than when kept where they are exposed to the open air4 ,if it is desired to save some of the best heads for seed1 the roots of the plant must be buried as well as the top2 they can then be replanted early in the spring and a cross cut made in the top of the head to assist the flower stalks in bursting through1 as the heads are sometimes so tight that they will rot before bursting4 ,illustration3 ,,extra ,,early ,,express ,,cabbage4 ,illustration3 ,,early ,,jersey ,,wakefield ,,cabbage4 ,,early ,,varieties--,extra ,early ,etampes4--,this cabbage is the earliest heading variety that ,i have ever grown4 ,the heads are small but round and very solid1 and it is ready for use nearly two weeks ahead of the other early varieties4#d ,early ,jersey ,wakefield4--,this has long been the chief favorite for the general crop of early cabbage1 and is deservedly popular1 as it is sure to head when the seed is good2 the heads are of good size and shape1 and the quality is fine4 ,early ,summer4--,this succeeds the ,wakefield1 and has heads about twice the size of the latter2 they are round1 very solid and slightly flattened on top2 it has few outside leaves and can be planted closely2 this variety matures about two weeks later than the ,wakefield1 and a month after the ,etampes4#e ,,varieties ,,of ,,late ,,cabbages4 ,at the head of these ,i would place ,,burpee',s ,,surehead1 which has done so well for me since ,i began planting it1 never failing a single season1 that ,i now plant my whole crop of it1 instead of planting two or three kinds as formerly1 to guard against poor seed or a bad season4 ,it is an improved type of the ,premium ,flat ,dutch1 to which it is superior in the evenness and regularity of its heads and the 8sureness0 of every plant to form a fine head4 ,with me the heads average larger than the ,flat ,dutch1 are rather more rounding in shape and are of the finest quality4 ,illustration3 ,,early ,,summer ,,cabbage4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,surehead ,,cabbage4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,short-,,stem ,,drumhead ,,cabbage4 ,,short-,,stem ,,drumhead4--,this variety produces on extra short stems1 only a few inches in height1 very large solid heads1 often twenty-five pounds in weight4 ,it is from this kind that the very large heads seen at the county fairs in the fall are grown1 and where the ground is heavily manured and well cultivated enormous crops of this variety can be grown2 it is of fine quality1 very solid and an excellent keeper4 ,illustration3 ,the ,vandergaw ,cabbage ,the ,best ,second ,early and ,summer ,cabbage4 ,equally as ,good ,for ,winter4 ,,copyrighted #ahhg4 ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co ,,philada ,,danish ,,ball ,,head4--,this variety has only been recently introduced1 but bids fair to take a leading place as a winter variety2 the heads are quite round and very solid2 they are of medium size and very handsome appearance1 which make it a good market variety1 while the quality fully equals its good looks4 ,,cauliflower4 ,the culture of this vegetable is the same as that for cabbage1 in most respects1 but it is not a certain crop in our changeable climate and hot1 dry summers4 ,it likes plenty of moisture1 and if placed in a rather wet location or in a bed where it can be frequently watered1 it will be much more certain to produce fine heads4 ,its superior quality and the high price that good heads command make it a most desirable crop to grow wherever it will do well4 ,i have always found the short-stemmed1 extra early varieties the best ones to grow1 and as in the ordinary season but about half of them produce heads under ordinary garden culture1 the rest of them maturing throughout the summer and fall1 it is almost a continuous crop4 ,the seed should be sown as early as possible1 in the hotbed1 and great care should be taken that the plants do not become either stunted or drawn1 as none but the strong1 healthy plants will produce good heads4 ,it will greatly improve the appearance of the heads if some of the broad outside leaves are broken half through the stems and the tops bent over the heads while forming4 ,this will blanch and keep them of that pure whiteness so attractive in this vegetable as grown by the market gardeners4 ,the heads should be cut for use or sale as soon as they have reached their full size and before the buds begin to uncurl1 as this spoils both the appearance and quality of this1 the finest and most delicately flavored of the cabbage family4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,cauliflower4 ,,extra ,,early ,,dwarf ,,erfurt4--,this is the best strain for general use2 there are usually two or more grades of this offered in seed catalogues1 but the best should always be purchased1 even if you can only buy a single packet2 by taking extra care of it you can make every seed count4 ,this variety is quite early1 has short stems1 and makes good-sized heads of the best quality4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,best ,,early ,,cauliflower4 ,,early ,,snowball4--,this variety is quite early and makes fine large heads1 of handsome appearance4 ,,burpee',s ,,best ,,early4--,i have only grown this one season1 but found it all that it was represented in earliness and good heading quality4 ,owing to a drouth early in the spring1 the heads were not of large size2 the quality was fine1 and ,i think it bids fair to be one of the leading varieties4 ,,carrots4 ,these are ordinarily little used as table vegetables1 but will be found very palatable as an ingredient of soups and stews4 ,they are very easily grown1 the seed being planted in drills and the plants thinned to six or eight inches apart4 ,the seed should be sown in ,april or ,may1 and they will be ready for use early in the summer4 ,for winter use they should be stored in the manner described for beets and turnips2 they will retain their quality throughout the winter1 and form a pleasant variety in the winter supply of vegetables4 ,the rich yellow and red-fleshed varieties are the most popular1 and retaining their bright colors when cooked1 lend an attractive appearance to the dish of which they form a part4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,carrots4 ,,danvers ,,half-,,long ,,orange4--,this is claimed to have the greatest bulk with the shortest length of root1 and is a remarkably heavy cropper4 ,the root is of a rich1 dark orange color1 and grows very smooth and succeeds in all soils4 ,it is quite a favorite market sort4 ,,short ,,horn4--,the flesh of this variety is very fine grained1 of deep orange color and superior quality4 ,the roots do not penetrate deeply1 and the top is small1 which allows of their being planted quite closely4 ,illustration3 ,,improved ,,long ,,orange ,s,t ,,valery ,,danvers #c ,,of ,,the ,,best ,,carrots ,,early ,,very ,,short ,,horn1 ,,or ,,golden ,,ball4--,the earliest variety2 the roots are round1 turnip shaped1 of small size1 deep color1 and the quality is of the best4 ,,ox ,,heart4--,this variety is of large size1 the roots being seven to eight inches in length and three to four inches in diameter at the top2 it tapers gradually down to one and one-half to two inches at the bottom1 making very little waste in preparing it for the table4 ,it is of fine quality1 while its size will render any surplus valuable for feeding to the stock4 ,,red ,,saint ,,vallery4--,this is a large late variety and makes a good kind to raise for winter use2 the roots grow ten to twelve inches in length and measure two to two and one-half inches in diameter at the top1 tapering gradually to a point at the base4 ,it should have deep cultivation to produce the finest roots4 ,the color is a deep orange red and the quality is very fine4 ,,cantaloupe1 ,,or ,,musk ,,melon4 ,these are universal favorites1 and too frequently are not grown by the kitchen gardener1 who labors under the idea that they must have a sandy soil in some particularly favored section1 and that they require great skill to grow them4 ,if a variety suited to your soil is planted and given the same amount of attention and careful cultivation as the rest of the garden receives1 melons may be had in abundance from the first of ,august till frost comes in the fall1 though when the first cool nights come they lose their fine flavor4 ,if the garden has a southern slope1 that will be the place for the melons and other warmth-loving vegetables2 but they will do almost as well in the level field4 ,the rows of hills should be five feet apart and the hills at least four feet apart in the row1 to allow the vines plenty of room to run4 ,it is a good plan to make the hills break joint1 as they will then cover the ground to better advantage4 ,when the line is set1 a hole should be scraped with the hoe or shovel where the hill is to stand2 this should be six inches deep and about twelve inches in diameter4 ,compost is then shoveled in1 two rows being done at once2 two or three shovelsful are put in each hill4 ,the dirt thrown out in making the hole is then carefully made into a hill over the compost by using a sharp steel rake1 care being taken to remove all stones and hard lumps of dirt4 ,the seed is then scattered on the top of the hill1 generally from twenty to thirty seeds being planted in each hill1 that there may be an ample supply for the insects and yet leave a good stand4 ,they should be thinned out gradually1 extra ones being left in until they are at least a foot in length1 as the insect pests are both numerous and destructive4 ,the hills should not be made until it is time to plant the seed1 or they will get packed and too hard for the young roots to penetrate4 ,when the seed has been planted on the hill it should be covered with about half an inch of fine soil1 sifted and crumbled on with the fingers1 and the whole top patted down with the palm of the hand4 ,the seed should be planted as soon as the ground is thoroughly warm in the spring and when the temperature does not fall below sixty degrees at night4 ,the melons will commence ripening about ,august #ast1 and two rows across the garden should yield from one half-bushel to one bushel daily if the variety planted is of the small ,netted ,gem or ,jenny ,lind type4 ,these small1 round melons1 of the size of a croquet ball1 are very prolific1 and if carefully grown1 the quality is very fine4 ,some prefer the larger melons1 which fill the basket more quickly1 but in my experience the small ones have been so much more prolific that the yield has been almost double in bulk on the same amount of ground4 ,the melon rows should be gone over early every morning while ripening1 as they should not be allowed to become yellow on the vines4 ,the quality deteriorates very rapidly when allowed to ripen in the hot sun1 so that they should be picked while still green4 ,the right stage for picking can readily be told by examining the point where the stem joins the melon2 as soon as the stem begins to crack away from the melon slightly1 or when the little drops of red juice form round the base of the stem1 it is time to pick the melon4 ,when picked1 they should be put in a cool cellar or spring house until wanted for the table4 ,seed may be saved from the largest and finest-flavored melons2 but if your garden is on heavy soil1 or if two or three varieties are grown near together1 it is best to procure fresh seed from some melon-growing district every year4 ,the ground between the hills should be cultivated frequently1 as long as it can be done without interfering with the vine2 the soil in the hills should be kept loose and drawn up around the vines with the hoe4 ,when the vines have grown too long to allow the passage of the cultivator1 the patch can be kept clean by pulling out the large weeds by hand1 which can be done very quickly after a good rain4 ,the dense shade caused by the luxuriant vines will cause the small and low-growing weeds to rot off4 ,while the vines are still small1 it will be necessary to dust them every few mornings with road dust1 soot1 plaster or slug shot1 to destroy the flies and striped bugs that infest them4 ,when healthy young vines suddenly wilt and droop in the hot sun without apparent cause1 dig around the root of the plant with the fingers or a stick until the grub is found which has cut the plant off underground4 ,he should be searched for and 8made an example of0 as soon as the first vine is discovered to be flagging1 or he will proceed to eat the whole hill4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,musk ,,melons4 ,,burpee',s ,,netted ,,gem4--,the finest as well as the earliest of all the small-fruited varieties that ,i have tried1 and where a variety of melons is not particularly desired1 it will furnish a generous supply of fine-flavored fruit from the first ripening until killed by frost4 ,it is a very good keeper1 retaining its good quality for nearly a week after picking1 if kept in a cool cellar4 ,this is often a valuable characteristic in the latter part of summer1 as several warm days furnish two or three baskets in the cellar1 which keep up the supply if the warm spell is followed by cool or cloudy days1 when the melons on the vines do not ripen readily4 ,this variety is thickly netted1 the meat is thick and solid1 and they run as even in shape and symmetry as a set of croquet balls1 which they also resemble in point of size4 ,illustration3 ,,copyrighted #ahhf4 ,,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co ,,emerald ,,gem ,,cantaloupe4 ,illustration3 #af-lb ,,montreal ,,nutmeg ,,melon--,,engraved ,,from ,a ,,photograph4 ,,emerald ,,gem4--,this variety has the small size and prolific bearing qualities1 with the handsome salmon-colored flesh1 that originated in the ,surprise ,melon some years ago4 ,too much cannot be said of the quality of this melon1 as ,i do not think there is another variety that approaches it in flavor4 ,the vines are strong and healthy in growth and well set with melons near the hills1 and the fruit is early in ripening4 ,the melon has a thin1 green rind and very small seed cavity1 almost the entire body of the fruit consisting of the rich and luscious meat4 ,,montreal ,,green ,,nutmeg4--,a handsome variety1 in which large size1 regular shape and fine appearance are combined with thick flesh of the finest flavor4 ,in shape they are nearly round1 slightly flattened at the ends1 very deeply ribbed and heavily netted4 ,these melons have been grown to over thirty pounds in weight1 and will average ten to twelve pounds in ordinary culture4 ,,celery4 ,while one of the most troublesome vegetables to bring to perfection in the ordinary garden1 this is one of the most desirable1 as well as one of the most profitable1 when well grown4 ,the ,michigan celery that is being shipped to our eastern cities in such large quantities does not seem to have lowered the price materially1 but has crowded all the inferior and less finely-grown plants out of the markets1 and the high express charges still guarantee a good profit to the near-by grower4 ,when the ground has become fairly warm in the spring1 a bed should be made in some shady corner for the seed2 if such situation is not to be had1 the seed can be sown in a spent hotbed1 cold frame or other convenient place1 and can be artificially shaded with fresh brush or lath shades through the hottest part of the day4 ,celery is naturally a swamp plant1 and to make a rapid growth should have the ground as rich as possible1 and also as much water as possible1 without making the ground heavy and sour4 ,the soil should not be allowed to become dry or baked1 and the weeds should be pulled out as soon as they appear4 ,this bed1 and1 indeed1 all other seed beds1 should be made very rich with well-rotted manure2 not with horse-stable manure or phosphate1 as both of them are dry and heating1 and in dry weather would stunt or entirely burn up the young plants4 ,the seed should be sown in drills about six inches apart1 to admit of working the soil with a narrow hoe1 as the continued watering will harden the surface of the bed and check the growth of the young plants4 ,when the plants are well up they should be thinned out so as to stand an inch apart in the drills1 and if the plants are ready some little time before they are wanted for setting out1 they can be made more stocky and stronger by shearing off about half of the tops4 ,when ready to set out1 ,i run a double furrow where the row is to be--that is1 the plow is run both ways in the same furrow1 casting up a ridge of dirt on either side of a shallow trench2 then in the bottom of this trench fine compost or well-rotted manure is placed to the depth of one to two inches1 and some of the fine soil from the sides is drawn down over the manure with a fine rake until the manure is covered about three inches4 ,this will still leave a depth of about two inches below the surface1 which will serve to draw and retain the rain water1 or1 in a dry time1 can be flooded with a hydrant hose or irrigating ditch4 ,where the ground has been heavily enriched or the celery is planted as the first crop--that is1 when no early vegetable precedes it on the same ground--no manure is used in the trench or furrow1 which is plowed out in the same way1 the additional depth assisting in the labor of earthing up for blanching4 ,to obtain fine quality and appearance the plant should be pushed to as rapid a growth as possible from the time the seed is sown until the stalks are ready for use2 if allowed to become stunted1 the stalks will be knotty in appearance and bitter in taste4 ,for my own use and marketing ,i usually sow seed of two or three varieties1 so that if one kind fails for any reason1 ,i may still have a crop sufficient for the table from the other varieties1 while if it is all good ,i have no difficulty in disposing of the surplus2 this is the more easily done1 as it occupies ground that has been cleared of early peas1 corn1 etc4 ,another point in not confining your planting to the one variety is that the handsome 8,self-blanching0 varieties are not good keepers1 and as the older kinds take a long time to whiten1 and a good deal of cold weather to develop the fine flavor1 they are about ready for use when the early kinds are gone4 ,while celery is raised as a second crop and has always been considered to require frost to develop the fine nutty flavor1 at least one row in the garden should be planted with a 8,self-blanching0 variety as early in the spring as the plants can be procured4 ,for this it is a good plan to sow two or three drills of celery in the hotbed at the same time with tomatoes1 peppers1 etc41 that they may be ready for planting out early in the spring4 ,these will grow quickly before the very hot weather sets in1 and in a favorable season will be ready for use by the latter part of ,august2 if kept earthed up they will be of as handsome appearance and as crisp and fine flavored as are the older varieties in ,december4 ,for the main crop the young plants should be ready to set out by the #ast of ,july1 though in a favorable locality they can be planted as late as the middle of ,august1 as they spend the summer largely in making roots and do not grow much until the cool weather4 ,as soon as the plants attain eight to ten inches in height1 or1 rather1 length of leaf stalk as they lie spread out1 the earthing up should begin on all kinds of celery1 although the seed catalogues will tell you that it is unnecessary in self-bleaching kinds4 ,these latter may be bleached easily by tying the stalks together with straw or soft twine1 but the earthing-up process is much more satisfactory both to produce a compact bunch of stalks and an even whiteness in color2 otherwise1 the outside stalks will remain green4 ,my plan in earthing for the first time1 or 8handling10 as it is called1 is to have the dirt loose and fine on each side of the row1 then to stand astride the row1 gather all the leaves up and hold them closely in the left hand1 and with a short-handled hoe draw the loose dirt in and pack it firmly around the stalks1 leaving about two inches of the tips stick out at the top4 ,it is important to hold the stalks closely1 that the dirt may not sift down among the stalks1 which would either rot the heart or cause the inner stalks to become twisted and crooked4 ,the second and succeeding bankings are done by a boy standing over the row1 clasping the stems in his hand closely1 while a man on each side banks up the loose dirt with a shovel2 as they raise the bank the boy slides his hand further up the stalks1 until1 as before1 all but two inches of the tips are covered4 ,the boy moves along the row backward1 facing the two men who are using the shovels2 as they finish one plant he grasps and bunches another1 always having a plant in each hand4 ,this method is a great time saver1 and also enables the work to be done more neatly than where the plant has to be held while the dirt is drawn from a distance with the hoe4 ,this earthing up should be repeated every two or three weeks until it is time to store the celery for the winter4 ,immediately before banking1 ,i run the light plow or the cultivator on each side of the row1 which furnishes plenty of fine1 loose dirt ready for use4 ,the soil will pack better and remain in the banked form better if it is moist when handled1 but must not be so wet as to be sticky1 for it would then 8rust0 or spot the stalk4 ,the plants should be set in rows five or six feet apart1 so that there may be plenty of soil for the earthing up and room to pass between the rows when banked2 the taller growing varieties will require full six feet between the rows4 ,about the third week in ,november the celery should be dug and stored2 for if it is left out longer1 there is danger of its being spoiled by hard freezing4 ,if it is to go in the cellar it should be stood upright in barrels or in boxes1 the sides of which are as high as the stalks are tall1 so as to keep them straight and white2 the roots are left on and packed in moist soil1 in order to keep the plants fresh and crisp2 but the soil must not be allowed to come up among the stalks1 or it might cause them to rot4 ,the root cellar must be kept cool and have plenty of air whenever it can be admitted without freezing the contents of the cellar4 ,illustration3 ,illustration showing the manner of storing celery in the field for early use4 ,c4 ,plants of celery4 ,d4 ,banks of soil4 ,s4 ,straw covering4 ,e4 ,board laid on top of the straw to keep it in place4 ,another plan is to set the plants on a well-drained plot1 side by side in a long row1 three or four plants wide and as closely together as possible2 earth banks are then raised on each side of the row about four to six inches thick at the top1 and the ends closed in the same manner4 ,the roots are packed solidly in the soil1 and the banks are carried up level with the longest tops2 when the very cold weather sets in the whole top1 banks and leaves1 is covered with straw1 leaves or corn fodder1 to keep the frost out4 ,i would not recommend this method of storing unless it is expected to have the supply all used or marketed by the #ast of ,january4 ,the best way to store celery is in a hotbed or cold frame1 which is built two or three feet deep in the ground1 as already described4 ,the celery plants are set side by side in this1 as in the boxes or barrels1 and the roots tightly packed in moist soil2 then the sash can be put on at nights and in the daytime can be entirely removed or slightly raised to admit air1 according to the temperature4 ,on very cold nights the sash can have an extra covering of straw or old carpet1 and if there is a heavy fall of snow it can be left on a few days1 until the weather again becomes warmer4 ,stored in this manner1 it is no trouble to get the celery when wanted2 it can be given plenty of air1 without which it will not keep1 and the late kinds1 if packed closely together1 will complete their bleaching4 ,if the kinds which require blanching are not kept earthed up as the growth advances1 it will be almost impossible to blanch them4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,celery4 ,the dwarf and half-dwarf kinds are the best1 as they are superior both in quality and appearance and are much easier grown4 ,of these the ,dwarf ,golden ,heart is one of the best varieties2 the stalks are very thick and solid1 fine flavored1 and blanch to a fine white1 excepting the centre1 which is of a fine golden yellow4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,golden ,,self-,,blanching ,,celery4 ,,golden ,,self-,,blanching4--,the handsomest and most generally satisfactory kind that ,i have ever planted4 ,i know of none that can equal it in appearance or quality2 the stalks are large1 straight1 crisp and very solid2 it is very vigorous in growth1 attaining a height of one to one and a half feet1 and ,i have had single plants of three inches in diameter4 ,the leaves of this variety are of a beautiful golden yellow after the plant has been bleached1 which adds greatly to its handsome appearance when prepared for the table4 ,the young plants should be earthed up as soon as they are large enough to handle1 and in two weeks the celery will be in the finest order for the table1 thus gaining from one to two months over the ordinary kinds4 ,the quality is the finest and the stalks are crisp1 brittle and delicious4 ,,white ,,plume4--,this is also a self-blanching variety1 but not to the same extent as the preceding kind4 ,in this sort the inside stalks are naturally white1 and the leaves of these white stalks are variegated in the most striking and beautiful manner1 which gives it the name and renders it the most ornamental variety grown4 ,to bleach the outer stalks the plant should be kept earthed up1 and it will then be ready for use at any time4 ,it is not1 however1 so fine in the small state as the ,golden ,self-,blanching1 which is of fine eating quality even when growing in the seed bed2 the stalks are not so thick and meaty in the ,white ,plume1 but have a strong 8nutty0 flavor4 ,,crimson ,,or ,,red ,,celery4--,the red celery is very handsome and fine flavored when bleached1 and after the self-blanching varieties is the most desirable one to grow4 ,it grows tall and straight1 is crisp and brittle1 and when well blanched is a beautiful golden yellow1 the ribs and ridges being tinged with crimson4 ,,sweet ,,corn4 ,the first sweet corn should be planted early in ,april1 and should be of some small-growing1 very early variety1 such as the ,cory or ,minnesota4 ,this corn will have to struggle with the frost and chilling nights1 but with the aid of the ever-present worm1 which inhabits each ear1 will be ready for use long before any of the really fine kinds can be had4 ,there is only one good thing that ,i have been able to discover in the worm's favor in connection with his labors in horticulture1 and that is the way in which he assists in ripening all the earliest specimens of the different fruits4 ,to be sure1 his efforts in this line are not always appreciated1 but he is always there when you find a fruit ripening before its regular time4 ,about the third week in ,april a second sowing of this early corn should be made1 and at the same time should be planted some early large-eared variety1 such as ,crosby's ,twelve-rowed1 and an equal amount of a late variety1 such as ,stowell's ,evergreen4 ,thereafter a planting should be made every ten days or two weeks1 of a favorite sort1 which1 with me1 is ,stowell's ,evergreen1 although ,i plant other kinds throughout the season1 for the sake of variety4 ,these plantings should be kept up until the #ajth of ,july1 after which the late kinds will hardly mature2 but if the ground can be spared1 ,i would keep on planting until the #ajth of ,august1 as1 if the fall should be late1 it will come in very acceptably4 ,most gardeners exhaust their supply about the middle of ,september1 as they do not continue to plant late enough4 ,if there is danger of heavy frost early in the fall1 the corn that has well-set ears that have not yet ripened should be cut off at the ground and stacked against the south side of a fence or building2 it should be stood up nearly two feet in thickness1 to prevent freezing1 but should not be thicker1 as it will heat too much and will be awkward to handle when sorting over for the good ears4 ,treated in this way it will provide ears for use well into ,november1 but of course they will not be of as fine a quality as those matured in the ordinary way4 ,as the earliest varieties only grow about three feet high and have the ears set close to the ground1 the best way of planting them is to drop the seed ten inches to one foot apart1 in drills4 ,sow plenty of seed1 and if it comes up too thickly it can easily be thinned out when hoeing2 all suckers should be broken off at the same time1 so as to throw the strength of the plants into the ears4 ,if two rows are planted across the garden at each planting they will furnish an ample supply for the average family4 ,if it is needed for canning or drying1 an extra large planting should be made early in ,may1 which will mature after the heavy harvest work is over and before the fall fruit is ready to preserve4 ,if some fine compost is placed in the drills or hills1 it will help greatly to give the young plants a good start until they can reach the manure with which the garden has been dressed2 where this compost is put in it should be covered with an inch of soil before the seed is sown4 ,the climbing snap beans may be planted in the hill with the tall-growing corn1 or hills of pumpkins2 squashes or cucumbers may be made in every fourth hill and every third row1 although the vines will be very much in the way of continued cultivation if the ground is inclined to be weedy4 ,sweet corn should not be planted within one hundred yards of field or pop-corn1 as the pollen will be sure to mix and spoil the quality of the table corn4 ,it will sometimes mix at greater distances1 but this distance would be safe in most cases4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,sweet ,,corn4 ,,the ,,cory4--,this is the earliest variety known1 and is at the same time superior in size and quality to the varieties which have been grown as extra early1 before its introduction4 ,it ripens nearly a week in advance of any other variety1 while the ears are much larger than either the ,minnesota or ,marblehead4 ,the grains are well formed to the tip of the cob1 making a much handsomer ear than the other early varieties1 while in sweetness and quality it is also superior4 ,illustration3 ,a ,,ripened ,,ear ,,of ,,the ,,cory ,,corn4 ,,amber ,,cream4--,this is a medium early variety2 it is a strong1 vigorous grower1 reaching six to seven feet in height2 the ears are about ten inches in length and the quality is rich and sugary4 ,when used on the table the grains are milky white2 the 8,amber0 of its name coming from the ripe seed1 while the 8,cream0 is evidently an attempt to describe its excellent quality4 ,in planting and picking for the table1 the size of the ears of this variety and of ,stowell's ,evergreen should be taken into account2 a dozen ears being nearly equal to two dozen of some of the smaller-eared kinds4 ,,crosby',s ,,early ,,twelve-,,rowed does not grow quite so tall as the ,amber ,cream1 nor are the ears as large2 although called 8twelve-rowed10 it frequently has only ten rows4 ,the great merit of this kind is in its excellent quality1 it being very sweet and juicy1 and fully equal to any variety that ,i have ever eaten4 ,it is one of the best sorts to plant after the very early kinds4 ,,potter',s ,,excelsior4--,an excellent medium early variety2 the ears are of good size1 with twelve rows of deep grains4 ,it is remarkably sweet and juicy1 and quite productive1 averaging two good ears to a stalk4 ,,stowell',s ,,evergreen4--,this is1 in my opinion1 the finest variety for late and general planting4 ,it is strong-growing and prolific1 while the ears are of large size and handsome appearance4 ,the quality is rich and sweet1 while the grains are juicy and luscious1 when picked at the right stage4 ,to have the finest corn of any variety it should be picked in just the right condition2 that is1 when the skin of the grain breaks at the slightest puncture1 and plantings should be made frequently enough always to have a supply at this stage4 ,the quality is inferior if it is a few days too old or too young4 ,,cucumbers4 ,in raising cucumbers care should be taken to procure seed that is perfectly pure1 as it mixes readily with other varieties and deteriorates rapidly4 ,the seed should be planted in hills1 prepared in the manner described for cantaloupes1 three feet apart in the row1 and the rows #d to #e feet apart4 ,if there is not enough compost at hand to manure them1 as directed in the manner of making them1 the hills can be raked up a few inches above the surface and the young plants allowed to feed on the general dressing which has been applied to the whole garden2 the elevation serving to give the young plants a better start than on the level surface4 ,while the cucumber is a lover of heat and moisture1 it is apt to damp off in its early stages if it should be cold and wet2 the hills tending to lift the young plants up into a drier and warmer soil4 ,a liberal quantity of seed should be sown in each hill1 say twenty to forty seeds1 that there may be enough young plants to survive the depredations of the striped cucumber bug and of the borers4 ,the young plants should be dusted every few mornings with ashes1 plaster or slug shot1 to destroy these pests1 and as soon as the plants are sufficiently large to take care of themselves they should be thinned out to only three or four plants in a hill4 ,the first planting should not be made before the middle of ,may1 for they will not stand cold4 ,the cucumbers should be picked as soon as they attain sufficient size and before the seeds become developed or hard2 this should be done every morning while it is still cool1 and the cucumbers placed in a cool cellar4 ,the very best way is to put them in the water in a cool spring-house2 there is no place where melons1 squashes and cucumbers retain their freshness and crisp1 fine flavor so fully as in such a spring4 ,if the picking is carefully attended to and all the fruit picked off as soon as large enough1 the vines will continue to grow and bear all summer1 especially if they are in a rather shady situation1 such as among the sweet corn4 ,a few fine specimens may be allowed to ripen for seed1 but if many are left the vines will dry up and die as soon as they have ripened a crop4 ,where a quantity of small pickles are wanted1 the best way is to make a planting about the first week in ,august or latter part of ,july4 ,these will produce large quantities if the ground is rich1 and will continue to bear until killed by frost4 ,like the summer crop1 they should be picked every day or two1 and as soon as they are of the size desired1 as they will bear a great many more if not allowed to grow large2 also the smaller the pickle the more attractive it is1 and the more readily it sells4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,cucumbers4 ,,early ,,russian4--,the earliest variety grown1 and is of very good quality for table use1 but only grows about three inches in length2 it is very solid and has but few seeds4 ,its small size and earliness render it a very good variety for pickles4 ,,early ,,green ,,prolific4--,this is largely grown for pickling1 and is immensely productive4 ,the shape1 quality and great bearing make it a very valuable kind4 ,,improved ,,early ,,white ,,spine4--,this variety is more generally grown than any other1 and is deservedly popular for both table use and for pickling4 ,it is of medium length1 and from #a to #b inches in diameter2 when not too old the flesh is very crisp and fine flavored4 ,,london ,,long ,,green4--,grows from twelve to sixteen inches in length1 is a very dark green in color1 and presents a fine appearance1 while the flesh is firm and crisp1 and the quality excellent4 ,illustration3 ,,giant ,,pera ,,cucumber4 ,,early ,,russian ,,cucumber4 ,,early ,,green ,,prolific ,,cucumber4 ,,improved ,,white ,,spine ,,cucumber4 ,,london ,,long ,,green ,,cucumber4 ,,burpee',s ,,giant ,,pera ,,cucumber4--,this wonderful new variety differs in almost every respect from the cucumber as generally grown1 and in size and quality far surpasses the ordinary kinds4 ,the vines are very vigorous in growth1 with dark green1 luxuriant foliage1 which enables it to bear large crops of cucumbers of extraordinary size1 as they are nearly three inches in diameter and are from #ae to #bb inches in length4 ,the fruit is uniformly round1 smooth and straight1 the skin being of a pale green and entirely free from spines2 when ripe the skin is a russet brown4 ,the green cucumbers are fit to eat at any stage of their growth4 ,the flesh is entirely white1 not tinged with green1 as in the ordinary kinds1 and is crisp1 tender and brittle4 ,it has none of the cucumber taste of the older kinds1 and is not always relished at first by those who are fond of the strong-flavored varieties1 but after becoming accustomed to it for a short time1 it is preferred to all others4 ,in its native home it forms one of the staple foods of the inhabitants1 being eaten in the natural state without any dressing whatever1 in the same manner that we would eat an apple or a pear4 ,it is certainly one of the most remarkable vegetables of recent introduction4 ,,egg ,,plant4 ,since the advent of the potato bug in our ,eastern ,states the labor of raising this fine fruit is almost trebled1 the bug regarding it as a delicacy superior even to the potato vines1 and from its manner of bearing the fruit it is dangerous to apply ,paris green or other poisons for their destruction4 ,where there is time to attend to it ,i prefer to have the bugs picked off by hand every day1 but this is slow work1 as we frequently get as many as a pint from two dozen of plants1 and they do considerable damage by eating the young shoots and buds1 even between such frequent pickings4 ,the best way is to dust with ,paris green or other poison1 until the plants are of sufficient size to bear fruit1 and then to keep the bugs off as thoroughly as possible by hand picking4 ,in preference to ,paris green or other strong poisons1 ,i use ,hammond's ,slug ,shot1 an insecticide that is sold in all seed and implement stores1 and which is said not to be injurious to man or beast1 though poison is present in the impalpable powder2 it is also claimed that it is an excellent fertilizer1 as well as being sure death to insects4 ,having used it three seasons1 ,i have found it very satisfactory for the preservation of all small plants1 excepting in one case of young seedlings just coming through the soil1 in which case a too heavy application burned them up4 ,the egg plant is a strong1 rank grower and a great lover of rich soil and of heat4 ,the seed should be started in a warm hotbed or greenhouse about the last of ,march1 and the soil should be as rich and light as possible4 ,if the plants grow rapidly1 they will be improved by transplanting in the hotbeds1 as it will help them to form a good bunch of fibrous roots1 so that they will sustain no check when planted out4 ,they should not be set out in the garden until warm weather is assured1 and then should be planted in hills enriched as for melons4 ,these hills need not be higher than the surface of the garden1 but if strong growth and large fruits are desired1 a hole should be scraped out where each plant is to stand1 and two or three shovelsful of well-rotted manure or compost put in1 and the soil leveled off again before the plant is set4 ,if the ground is dry when the plants are set out1 water should be poured in the holes dug to receive them1 and the dry soil drawn up around the stems when the plant has been set4 ,the roots of the freshly set plants should not come in contact with the manure1 but should have two or three inches of soil through which to seek it as they become established4 ,the fruit should be cut as soon as it is of sufficient size and before the seeds become hard1 as it soon loses its fine quality when it begins to ripen4 ,the plants will also continue longer in bearing if this course is pursued1 as it takes greatly from the strength of any plant to ripen its seed4 ,when there is danger of frost in the fall all the fruits large enough to use1 from the size of an egg up1 should be picked off and stored in the cellar1 as they will remain fresh and fit for use for over a month at this cool season of the year2 by so doing ,i have frequently enjoyed this fine fruit long after it has disappeared from the tables of my neighbors4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,york ,,improved ,,egg ,,plant4 ,the hills for the plants should be about two feet apart in the row1 and the rows four feet apart4 ,three dozen plants1 which will occupy hardly a third of one of our kitchen garden rows1 will furnish an ample supply for a large family4 ,the small early variety matures three or even four weeks before the ordinary kinds1 but as they are hardly larger than a good-sized goose egg1 it is not worth while to bother with them unless you are especially fond of the fruit and wish to have it as early as possible4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,egg ,,plant4 ,,extra ,,early ,,dwarf ,,round ,,purple4--,this variety is in every respect similar to the ,new ,york ,purple1 excepting in size and time of ripening2 the fully developed fruit being about two inches in length and being ready for use a few weeks after planting out in the garden4 ,,new ,,york ,,improved ,,large ,,purple4--,this is the best and most popular variety4 ,it is of large size1 very handsome color and appearance1 and the largest in diameter of any variety1 yielding large slices for frying4 ,the quality is of the finest4 ,,horse ,,radish4 ,this pungent root is a great favorite as a relish in the early spring1 and is credited with tonic properties2 at any rate it is a very pleasant appetizer at a season when we have been almost without fresh vegetables for several months4 ,it can be raised in almost any soil1 though preferring a moist situation1 and is most at home where it is constantly moistened or occasionally overflowed by some stream4 ,it is raised from pieces of root1 three or four inches in length and from to inch in diameter4 ,these slips are made from the tails or rootlets cut off in trimming the roots for grating1 they should be cut off square at the top and sloping at the bottom1 that you may readily know which end goes up when you plant them4 ,the slips should be kept in a box of moist earth1 in a cool cellar1 after they have been trimmed1 until planting time4 ,the slips can be planted with a long trowel2 but the best and quickest way is to drive a spade1 full depth1 into the soil1 flatways with the garden line1 move it slightly back and forward1 to widen the hole1 and slip a piece of root down each side of the cut made by the spade1 which will make them six or seven inches apart2 the spade should then be driven in about one inch back of its previous position and the handle pressed forward1 which will pack the dirt solidly against the planted roots1 the tops of which should be placed about one inch under the surface4 ,where it is desired to increase the supply as fast as possible1 and where the roots have been used at home1 the crowns or tops1 with an inch or so of root adhering1 can be planted again1 but they will not make long1 smooth roots1 like the slips1 but will have a tendency to make several small roots4 ,,hops4 ,at the end of one of the berry rows1 or in some corner where they will be out of the way of the plow1 there should be a few poles of hops4 ,these are grown from pieces of root1 and after being once planted will not need further attention except to be kept clear of weeds and grass1 to be supplied with a good topdressing of manure in the fall1 and suitable poles to climb upon4 ,these poles should be good strong ones1 at least #h to #aj feet in height4 ,about the last of ,august or first of ,september the vines should be cut off near the ground and the poles pulled up1 so that the crop may be gathered4 ,there is an old saying that 8the ,september winds should never be allowed to blow on the hops40 ,the hops should be spread on sheets and placed in some cool1 airy garret or loft1 to dry4 ,it will take five or six good poles to make a bushel of hops4 ,,lettuce4 ,this is generally known as salad1 which is a misnomer1 as salad means anything that is served in a green state2 it may be onions1 tomatoes1 cabbage1 lettuce1 or anything of that kind4 ,by general usage the word salad has been appropriated to the lettuce1 as the latter is the plant most frequently grown in this country for salad4 ,but call it whichever you like1 it is one of the greatest additions to our tables1 and in our kitchen garden it should not be made a side issue of a week or two in the spring1 but should be raised in the finest condition possible throughout the season1 and by using the hotbeds and cold frames it is possible to have it the whole year round4 ,to raise head lettuce in perfection the greatest care must be taken to reserve the very best and tightest heads for seed1 or if the seed is to be purchased select the hardest-heading varieties4 ,for the earliest planting the seed should be sown in the hotbed and have the same treatment as its associate1 the cabbage2 the young plants should not be allowed to stand too thickly2 they should be at least an inch apart in the seed bed1 or be transplanted to that distance when half an inch high4 ,when the cabbage is set out1 one or two lettuce plants may be set between each pair of cabbages in the row1 according to the distance the cabbages are apart4 ,there must be space enough between the plants to give the soil a good stirring with the hoe around each plant1 as thorough cultivation is essential to the best development of both cabbage and lettuce4 ,a second lot of seed should be planted when the tomatoes and egg plants are sown2 these can be set out in the garden as soon as they are large enough to handle4 ,the third sowing should be made in the open garden when the first planting is done1 and the young seedlings should be transplanted as soon as the plants are large enough and before they begin to be crowded in the row1 as this last sowing will not form heads without it receives the best of care4 ,these three sowings are about all that can be depended upon to make hard heads1 unless it can be planted in some rich1 shady corner1 and carefully nursed with the watering pot4 ,illustration3 ,,perpetual ,,lettuce4 ,about the first or middle of ,may a sowing should be made of the 8,perpetual ,lettuce10 and the plants1 when large enough1 should be transplanted and treated the same as the head lettuce2 it will not form tight heads1 but produces a fine bunch of broad1 yellowish-green leaves1 which are very crisp and delicate1 not being strong and bitter1 as most lettuces are in hot weather4 ,this lettuce will stand from four to six weeks without running to seed1 so that if plantings are made about once a month it can be had in perfection throughout the balance of the season4 ,if the head lettuce is more particularly desired1 a sowing should be made about the first of ,august1 and another about the fifteenth2 the young plants should be transplanted and treated in the same manner for heading as is followed in the spring2 the first sowing will not produce heads unless the latter part of ,august and the first part of ,september be cool and moist2 but you are almost sure to have fine heads from the second sowing4 ,personally1 ,i prefer the ,perpetual1 both for its fine qualities and the ease of growing it4 ,another way1 and the easiest1 to have a constant succession of lettuce for the table throughout the season1 is to sow the seed thickly in drills and to cut the loose leaves close to the ground when it is three or four inches high2 this produces rather narrow leaves1 which are very tender and juicy1 but which have not the substance of those grown as separate plants or heads1 and are not so easily prepared for the table4 ,these sowings can be made every few weeks1 and a constant succession of young leaves be had for use throughout the entire season4 ,it should be the object in sowing lettuce to plant small lots frequently1 that it may always be had in the best condition4 ,about the second week in ,september a sowing of some early hard-heading variety should be made1 and a succeeding one about the first of ,october2 from these two sowings the cold frames should be planted1 about one-third from the first and two-thirds from the second2 the plants should be set about six inches apart each way1 which will allow about fifty plants to each sash4 ,when cold weather comes the sash should be put on1 and the outsides of the frames banked around with long stable manure4 ,the plants must be treated to plenty of fresh air whenever the weather will permit of it1 and on very cold nights the sash should be reinforced with a covering of straw1 old mats1 or carpet4 ,the lettuce grown in these frames is apt to be infested with the small insect known as the 8,green ,fly20 to prevent or to get rid of the presence of this pest1 tobacco refuse and sweepings from a cigar-maker's shop should be strewn on the soil under the leaves2 this will destroy the fly and act as a fertilizer1 but if too much is applied it will spoil the delicate flavor of the lettuce4 ,if a few very early cabbages are desired1 the seed should be sown about the first of ,october and transplanted with the lettuce into the cold frames2 planting them about two inches apart each way2 if these are in good condition and the spring favorable1 they can be planted out about the #aeth of ,march1 and will produce heads one to two weeks earlier than those raised in the hotbeds4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,lettuce4 ,,burpee',s ,,hard-,,head4--,this is the fastest growing and the best heading kind that ,i have ever grown4 ,with this variety the ordinary gardener is able to grow as fine1 large1 solid heads as those grown by the professional market gardener4 ,in shape it very much resembles a cabbage1 as even the outer leaves tend to curl in over the head1 instead of spreading outward1 as in most lettuces4 ,in appearance it is quite novel and striking1 the edges of the leaves being tinged with a deep brownish-red1 while in the centre of its hard heads the leaves are blanched to a beautiful creamy white4 ,in quality it is remarkably tender1 rich1 juicy1 and never bitter4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,hard-,,head ,,lettuce4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,tomhannock ,,lettuce4 ,,burpee',s ,,tomhannock4--,this is the finest of all the cutting lettuces1 as it is of large size1 handsome appearance1 and the very choicest quality4 ,it grows very quickly1 is soon ready to cut1 and stands a long time without running to seed1 retaining throughout the season its delicate and delicious flavor4 ,the growth is erect2 a fully developed plant is ten to twelve inches in height1 and nearly as great in diameter across the top2 the outer edges of the leaves curl outward4 ,the outer leaves are shaded with reddish-brown1 while the inner leaves are almost white4 ,it is entirely free from any bitter taste throughout the entire summer4 ,,stonehead ,,golden ,,yellow4--,this is a new variety1 which makes very solid heads1 of handsome appearance and the finest quality4 ,its earliness1 large1 tight heads and superior quality render it one of the best kinds for forwarding under glass4 ,illustration3 ,,golden ,,stonehead ,,lettuce4 ,,burpee',s ,,silver ,,ball4--,this1 next to the ,hard ,head1 is the best heading variety for general purposes1 and where the brown markings in the latter kind are an objection1 the gardener will find in this kind all the good qualities that go to make a desirable lettuce4 ,it produces a beautiful head1 very firm and solid1 with handsomely curled leaves4 ,the head is of a silvery white color1 very rich and buttery in flavor1 and stands for some time before running to seed4 ,other excellent varieties of cabbage lettuces are ,philadelphia ,white ,cabbage1 ,the ,hanson and ,the ,deacon1 while ,the ,tennis ,ball is a great favorite with market gardeners for forcing4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,silver ,,ball ,,lettuce4 ,,okra4 ,this plant1 like the carrot1 is too little grown1 as its green pods impart a fine flavor and consistency to soups and mixed stews2 besides being very palatable when stewed and served as is a dish of asparagus2 the pods can also be dried for winter use4 ,the seeds should be planted in drills1 and if the dwarf variety be used1 which ,i think is preferable1 as it produces an abundance of pods and does not take up nearly so much room1 the plants may be allowed to stand about one and a half feet apart in the row1 the rows being three feet apart1 though a quarter or half a row in the kitchen garden1 as here described1 will furnish an ample supply1 both for use and drying4 ,for either purpose1 they should be cut before the pods attain their full size or they will be hard and woody4 ,for drying1 the best way is to string them on a fine wire or thread and suspend them to the rafters of a cool loft or garret until wanted for use4 ,the culture of this vegetable is very simple1 as the seeds are planted in drills about two inches deep1 and the after treatment is the same as for corn4 ,illustration3 ,,okra4 ,,onions4 ,in raising onions in quantities the practice of late years has been to grow the crop from seed in one season1 instead of the method formerly almost universally practiced in this section1 of raising and keeping over sets to form the next year's crop4 ,this latter method is now only practiced to save labor in small gardens and to bring a few onions in for use early in the season4 ,to raise a satisfactory crop the ground must be free from weed seeds2 it must be made as rich as possible and have constant cultivation from the time the seedlings break through the ground until the bulbs begin to ripen4 ,the soil must be plowed1 harrowed and raked1 until it is in the finest possible condition to receive the seed1 and it is important to select a plot for this purpose that has been kept free from weeds the preceding season4 ,root crops are the best to precede onions1 as they not only leave the ground free from litter1 but also1 if they have been properly cultivated1 leave the soil in fine tilth4 ,in our kitchen garden ,i would sow the seed in drills1 twelve to fourteen inches apart1 and cultivate with the wheel hoe2 in field culture1 or raised more extensively in the garden1 plant in rows as closely as they can be worked with the cultivator1 which1 if it is provided with very narrow-bladed teeth1 can be run through any rows where the horse can walk4 ,for the kitchen garden1 make the surface fine with a sharp steel rake1 and if no drill is at hand1 take a rake handle or blunt stick1 and1 drawing it along the garden line1 scratch a drill about an inch deep4 ,sow the seed thinly1 say an inch apart1 but if there is reason to doubt the freshness of the seed1 sow it thicker1 so that a good stand may be assured4 ,when the onions are an inch high1 they should have their first working4 ,follow the wheel hoe or cultivator with a narrow-bladed hoe1 not wider than an inch and a half at the cutting part of the blade2 it must be sharp and lightly handled1 just loosening the ground and cutting off any stray weeds4 ,if there are no weeds the soil can be quickly loosened with a sharp steel rake4 ,they should be worked every eight or ten days from this point until they begin to ripen2 if it is neglected for longer periods than these1 the gardener will rue it in days of back-breaking labor on hands and knees4 ,when the young onions have made leaves two or three inches in height1 they should be thinned out to from four to six inches apart in the rows1 according to the size of the bulb made by the particular variety planted4 ,the seed for onions grown in this way should be sown as early in the spring as the soil can be gotten into the proper fine condition1 so that they may make as strong a growth as possible before the hot summer weather ripens them off4 ,as they begin to ripen1 all those with thick necks should be pulled and used upon the table1 as they will not ripen properly1 and if put away with the good bulbs will start all to rotting4 ,there is a theory common with old gardeners that1 by bending the tops over when they begin to ripen1 the bulbs will be increased in size and will ripen more quickly2 personally1 ,i have tried it frequently1 and have never been able to observe any difference in those bent and the ones left to ripen in the natural way4 ,as soon as the bulbs are well matured1 take them up at once1 as a few rainy days might start them to growing again if left in the ground2 pull off all the tops and roots which adhere to the dry bulbs and spread them thinly on the barn floor or on the floor of a cool loft4 ,when it becomes too cold to let them remain longer in this position without danger of freezing1 ,i put them in peach baskets1 the stripped sides of which allow a free circulation of air1 and store them in a cool1 well-ventilated cellar1 where we try to keep the temperature just above freezing by admitting air whenever possible1 as it takes but very little warmth to start them to growing1 and then they soon become unfit for use4 ,if the gardener saves his own seed1 the finest and best-shaped onions should be laid aside for planting out in the spring1 for this purpose4 ,where the crop is raised from sets it is not necessary1 though quite desirable1 to have the soil made as fine as for the seed bed4 ,as the small onions are set in1 planting at the proper distances apart1 almost all the cultivation can be done with the narrow onion hoe1 and if it is regularly attended to at proper intervals no hand work is necessary4 ,the onion is a hardy bulb1 and the sets can be planted as soon in the spring as the ground can be gotten into proper condition2 this makes an important feature in the earliness of the crop1 as the sets have several weeks the start over the onions raised from seed4 ,for the very earliest onions1 or those used when the bulb and neck are about of equal thickness early in the spring1 and which go by the name of scallions1 the sets are planted in ,october and allowed to remain in the ground all winter1 so that they are ready for use almost as soon as the spring opens1 two weeks' growth sufficing to bring them to a proper size4 ,where the main garden crop of these fragrant bulbs is raised from seed1 enough sets should be planted to make an early supply for the table2 if no sets are at hand in the fall1 to plant for the spring crop of scallions1 they could be grown by sowing the seed about a month earlier than you would plant the sets for the same purpose4 ,in sowing seeds for sets the same directions apply as given for the crop of bulbs1 excepting that the seed is sown much more thickly1 so that the bulbs will touch each other and stand two or three wide in the row4 ,if they do not seem to be making the proper growth as the season advances1 they should be thinned to the proper extent to enable them to grow to the right size1 one-half inch in diameter1 though my own trouble is that they usually grow too large2 to remedy this when they are nearly the proper size ,i allow them to become choked with grass and weeds1 which checks their growth1 but when this is done they must be watched that this mass of stuff does not rot them off when ripe4 ,i think a better way would be to go along the row with a straight-edged hoe or spade and cut off some of the roots4 ,the main object in having the sets of this small size is that they shall not run to seed when planted out in the spring4 ,any sets which exceed three-quarters of an inch in diameter should be used for pickling or cooking4 ,when the sets begin to ripen it will sometimes facilitate the process to bend all the green tops over close to the bulbs1 as it helps to dry and shrivel the tops more quickly4 ,when thoroughly ripe they should be gathered at once1 the tops and roots pulled off1 and should be spread out and stored for winter in the same manner described for the large onions4 ,any of the sets that persist in growing and not drying properly1 should be thrown out1 or they will spoil the whole crop4 ,if a suitable cellar or loft is not available for storing the bulbs where they will be sure not to start into growth1 they may be wintered on the barn or loft floor1 covering with hay as the cold weather advances4 ,the hay should be only two inches thick at first1 but should be increased to one foot in thickness as the season advances1 and in the spring should be removed by the same graded process4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,onions4 ,,yellow ,,globe ,,danvers4--,this is a splendid variety1 and is the most popular and profitable kind to grow for market4 ,it is similar to the ,yellow ,danvers as ordinarily grown1 excepting in shape1 which is much finer1 in my opinion4 ,no one can fail to be pleased with this fine variety when well grown4 ,it is quite early1 and is one of the very best keeping kinds4 ,illustration3 ,,yellow ,,globe ,,danvers ,,onion4 ,,large ,,red ,,wethersfield4--,a strong grower and produces immense crops of large1 fine bulbs4 ,it is rather flat in form1 deep purplish red on the outside and a much lighter shade inside4 ,it has a strong flavor1 and is very solid1 making an excellent keeping and shipping sort4 ,illustration3 ,,red ,,wethersfield ,,copyrighted #ahhg4 ,w4 ,,atlee4 ,,burpee ,,co4 ,,phila ,,large ,,red ,,wethersfield ,,onion4 ,,white ,,globe4--,one of the handsomest onions grown1 beautiful in shape and color1 having a clear1 white skin2 the flesh is fine grained1 of mild flavor1 and the bulbs are of good keeping quality4 ,,white ,,silverskin1 ,,or ,,white ,,portugal4--,this is an old and favorite variety1 being very desirable for planting in the family garden2 the flavor is the mildest of the ,american varieties2 the small onions are very fine for pickling4 ,i think this variety should be marketed as early as possible1 as with me it is not a good keeper4#f ,illustration3 ,,white ,,silverskin ,,silverskin1 ,,or ,,white ,,portugal ,,onion4 ,,italian ,,varieties ,,of ,,onions4 ,,giant ,,red ,,rocca4--,these onions are of large size1 handsome appearance and mild1 delicate flavor4 ,in this variety we have an onion which attains a weight of from one to two pounds under ordinarily good culture1 and of most handsome shape and appearance1 the outer skin being always bright red1 while the flesh is white1 mild and pleasant4 ,,earliest ,,white ,,queen4--,this variety does not grow to the large size of the other ,italian kinds1 more resembling our ,american ,silverskin in size and appearance1 but has the great advantage over the latter variety 7which takes two seasons to attain the same size71 of remarkably quick growth1 while the flavor is equally1 if not more1 delicate4 ,the bulbs are flat1 pure white and about two inches in diameter4 ,it is the finest variety for pickling grown4 ,sown in ,february1 they will produce onions early in the summer1 while if sown in ,july1 they will be ready to harvest in the fall1 and will then keep in splendid condition throughout the winter4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,giant ,,red ,,rocca ,,onion ,,giant ,,red ,,rocca ,,onion4 ,illustration3 ,,white ,,queen ,,onion4 ,,giant ,,yellow ,,rocca4--,this variety is similar to the ,giant ,red ,rocca described above1 except in color1 which is a clear golden yellow4 ,it is this variety which is the real 8,spanish ,onion10 so generally sold at the fruit stands in the cities4 ,,burpee',s ,,mammoth ,,silver ,,king4--,this ,i believe to be the handsomest variety of onion grown1 as ,i think the white-skinned varieties the most attractive4 ,the bulbs are slightly flattened1 but are very thick through1 averaging five to six inches in diameter1 and have been grown to the enormous weight of over four pounds to the single bulb1 while two-pound bulbs are frequently produced under fair culture4 ,the skin is a beautiful silvery white2 the flesh is even whiter1 while the flavor is very mild and pleasant1 the ,italians eating them as we do apples4 ,,parsley4 ,this should be grown by every gardener on account of its usefulness1 both for seasoning and garnishing4 ,as it seeds in the second season1 fresh plantings should be made every spring4 ,the seed1 being very slow to germinate1 should be soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours before planting4 ,the best way is to sow in the hotbed or cold frame and transplant to the garden1 but it can be sown in drills where wanted and thinned out to the proper distance apart4 ,i always try to have a bed of it near the kitchen door1 as it saves much running2 if such a bed cannot be conveniently placed1 some should be cut and brought in with the other vegetables1 as it will keep fresh some days if kept in cold water4 ,in the fall some of the best roots should be taken up and planted in the cold frame1 or put in pots and boxes in the sunny windows of the house1 for a winter supply4 ,the leaves and tops from trimming the celery are also very fine for flavoring4 ,illustration3 ,,extra ,,curled ,,dwarf ,,parsley4 ,the ,,extra ,,curled ,,dwarf is so much finer and handsomer than the other kinds that it should be the only one grown4 ,,parsnips4 ,this is a winter vegetable1 needing hard freezing to refine and bring out its best quality2 the roots should be left to stand where grown until they can be dug in the spring or through the winter as wanted1 though some may be dug and stored in heaps for use when the ground is frozen too solidly to admit of digging them4 ,if there is more than are wanted for table use1 there should be no delay in getting them dug and marketed as early in the spring as possible1 for when they begin to sprout and grow1 they very soon become woody and unfit to eat4 ,a row should be sown in the garden at the same time as the onions1 beets1 etc41 are planted4 ,it is best to sow the seed quite thickly2 by thickly ,i mean one seed every inch or so2 when the young plants are about three inches high they should be thinned out to six inches apart in the row1 care being taken to leave only one plant in a place1 as1 if two are left1 they will spoil the symmetrical shape of the roots by growing against each other4 ,in planting the seed ,i always try to run it in between two rows of beets1 onions1 lettuce1 or other early crop1 thus working it with the wheel hoe while small1 and when the other crops have been taken off there is room to work it with the cultivator1 which is run as close to the rows and as deeply as possible1 so that the roots may attain the largest size4 ,in digging the roots when the ground is frozen hard and is impenetrable to the spade1 ,i use a long iron post digger with a steel blade4 ,illustration3 ,,improved ,,guernsey ,,parsnip4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,parsnips4 ,for the last three seasons ,i have grown the ,,improved ,,guernsey1 and have found it so much superior in size and quality to the ,long ,smooth1 as to be above comparison4 ,the roots are smooth1 fine shaped1 and free from small roots1 while the quality is very superior4 ,,peas4 ,the first planting should be made in the spring1 as soon as the ground can be prepared4 ,it is my practice to sow three varieties at the first planting1 and two varieties at each subsequent one1 kinds being sown which will mature in succession1 one being ready to pick about the time the preceding one is past4 ,the same result may be obtained by making plantings of the same sort a week apart4 ,i think my way the easier1 and besides1 relish the variety4 ,a drill of fifty feet would probably be sufficient for an ordinary family to have in bearing1 but as my own family is large and very fond of this vegetable1 and insist upon having them upon the table every day in the season when it is possible to grow them1 ,i find a full row across the garden none too many to have in bearing at one time4 ,for several years past ,i have given up raising the tall growing peas requiring brush or sticks for their support1 as it is not easy to procure sufficient brush for a garden of this size1 unless you have a convenient woods upon which to draw1 and even then it takes a great deal of labor to get the brush and stick the peas2 while it takes more than twice as long to clear the ground for the succeeding crop1 and the rows must be planted at a greater distance apart1 to admit of cultivation4 ,the quality of the dwarf kinds is fully as good as of the tall growing ones1 and in many kinds the crop borne is fully as prolific2 the only strong point that ,i know of in favor of the brushed peas1 is that the pickers do not growl half so much at picking them as they do over the lower growing ones1 and that some of the varieties can be had later in the summer1 as their height serves to shade the ground between the rows and thus keeps it cool4 ,as for the growls of the picker1 the short vines admit of no loafing place1 and no true gardener or lover of his craft ever seems to be aware that he has such a thing as a spine 7except on his cucumbers7 till he tries to straighten up at the end of the day's work4 ,for sowing the seed1 plow a drill as deeply as possible with the hand plow2 sow the seed thickly1 say a quart to #bjj feet of drill1 and cover by plowing the dirt back again2 when the hand-plow is not among the assortment of tools1 scrape a drill three inches deep and as broad as the blade of the hoe1 scatter the seed the whole breadth of the drill1 using about one-third more seed than above directed1 and then press them into the bottom of the drill with the sole of the boot1 covering the fine dirt in afterward with a steel rake2 this takes longer to do1 but is a much better way to plant them when the time can be spared2 the row being broader it gives the plants more room1 and the seed being planted more deeply will better withstand the hot weather4 ,for the very earliest planting the seed should only be covered about an inch deep1 and more soil can be drawn around them when well started4 ,the successive plantings of peas should be kept up until the middle of ,june2 those planted later than this will mildew1 and not fill out the pods1 unless in a cool and shady situation4 ,the plantings should be resumed about the first week in ,august1 and three successive plantings1 about ten days apart1 should be made4 ,the vines and pods of these peas will most likely mildew1 but the peas that you will get in the cool days of the fall will be the finest in quality1 of the whole season4 ,in selecting the sorts to plant1 the wrinkled varieties will be found of better quality than the smooth kinds1 the latter requiring to be picked while quite young1 as they become hard1 while the wrinkled ones remain longer in good condition4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,peas4 ,,burpee',s ,,extra ,,early4--,this is a remarkably early selection of the well-known ,philadelphia ,early4 ,it is the first variety to ripen1 ripens nearly all its pods at one time1 and is very sweet and tender when cooked2 the vines grow about two feet in height1 but can easily be supported by driving stakes every few feet and confining the vines with twine running from one stake to another4#g ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,extra ,,early ,,pea4 ,,american ,,wonder4--,this little fellow is really a wonder1 as it grows only eight to ten inches in height and is literally covered with pods4 ,it is remarkably early1 ripening in from thirty-five to forty days1 and in succulent sweetness cannot be surpassed4 ,illustration3 ,,american ,,wonder ,,peas4 ,,extra ,,early ,,premium ,,gem4--,this variety is about ten days later than the ,american ,wonder1 and grows from twelve to fourteen inches in height4 ,the peas are remarkably fine in quality1 and ,i have planted it for several years as my main variety4 ,,pride ,,of ,,the ,,market4--,a new pea that ,i have grown the past two seasons1 and find of very superior merit4 ,the price of the seed has been too high to admit of extensive planting1 but with these three dwarf kinds1 the only ones planted for the table this last season1 ,i can say that ,i have never been better supplied1 or with finer peas4 ,this variety grows about a foot and a half in height and bears a very heavy crop of pods1 which latter and the peas that they contain are of unusual size and substance4#h ,illustration3 ,,laxton',s ,,evolution ,,pea4 ,,laxton',s ,,evolution4--,this variety is a novelty in the way of peas2 in the other varieties the object having been of late years to have the pods all mature as nearly as possible at the same time2 this object has been sought for the benefit of the market gardeners1 while in this new variety we have a kind which will1 from its everbearing habits1 be a great boon to the family gardener4 ,the vines grow about three feet high1 and bear continuously1 for a space of nearly three months1 an abundance of handsome1 large pods1 each of which contains eight to ten wrinkled peas1 the pods being borne in clusters of two1 which facilitates the picking4 ,like all wrinkled varieties1 the quality of this remarkable pea is most excellent4 ,,champion ,,of ,,england4--,this is a large growing late sort1 and is very productive1 with peas of delicious flavor4 ,the vines grow to four or five feet in height1 and this past summer ,i ate them in perfection fully a month after the other varieties had disappeared from the table4#i ,illustration3 ,,copyright1 #ahhg1 ,by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee4 ,,burpee',s ,,quantity4 ,,peppers4 ,the seed should be sown about the middle of ,march1 in the hotbed1 if wanted for summer use1 and as soon as the nights are warm they should be planted out4 ,they can be sown in the open ground if the fruit is not wanted for use before fall4 ,as they are used in preparing various kinds of pickles1 etc41 it would probably be the better plan to plant some at both times4 ,when about six inches high1 they should be transplanted to the rows where they are to fruit1 and should be set about two feet apart in the row4 ,where room is scarce1 ,i usually set two pepper plants between each hill of cantaloupes1 as they grow well above the vines and are not at all in the way1 while having the ground shaded from the hot sun by the vines of the melons1 the surface being kept cool and moist by their broad leaves1 is of great advantage to the peppers4 ,in choosing varieties1 those kinds having the mildest flavor and handsomest appearance should be selected4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,peppers4 ,,burpee',s ,,ruby ,,king4--,this variety produces the handsomest1 and at the same time the largest and mildest peppers that ,i have ever grown2 one specimen this season being six inches long and over ten inches in round circumference4 ,when ripe the fruit is a beautiful1 bright1 ruby-red color1 and the flavor is mild and pleasant1 being much milder than in any other variety of red pepper4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,ruby ,,king4 ,,burpee',s ,,golden ,,upright4--,in this variety the fruit grows in a different manner from any other large pepper that ,i have ever seen2 it grows upright on the fruit stems1 instead of pendulous4 ,the fruits are large and handsome1 being about four to five inches in length1 and are of rich golden yellow tinged with red4 ,in taste it is as mild as the ,ruby ,king--the two making a very fine contrast when used together4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,golden ,,upright ,,pepper4 ,,bull ,,nose ,,and ,,golden ,,dawn are the finest of the older kinds1 but do not compare with the two above given1 either for size or mildness of flavor4 ,,red ,,cluster4--,this is one of the finest varieties that ,i have ever grown2 it is low and bushy in growth1 and is covered with a profusion of thin1 round peppers1 about three inches in length and one-quarter inch in diameter at the base1 tapering to a long1 sharp point4 ,when ripe1 the fruit is a brilliant coral red1 and a plant covered with fruit looks like some brilliant-foliaged plant that has escaped from the flower garden4 ,it is very hot and pungent in flavor1 and an idea of the productiveness can be had from the fact that over twelve hundred were counted on a single plant this last summer4#aj ,,pumpkins4 ,these take up so much room that they properly belong in the corn field1 or in a patch of their own1 in one of the cultivated fields4 ,if there is no place for them outside the kitchen garden1 and they can be kept far enough away from the squashes and cantaloupes1 they can be planted about every twenty feet1 in every fourth row of potatoes or sweet corn4 ,they should not be planted until the corn or potatoes have grown three or four inches high1 or they will be in the way of cultivating these crops4 ,if one row of the corn were left out1 and a row of pumpkins planted1 it would probably be the most satisfactory way to grow them1 as the tall growing corn1 of which there should be at least five rows between them and any other vines1 would prevent the pollen from mixing1 and as the hills need only be four or five feet apart1 a great many could be raised in a row4 ,the pumpkins must all be gathered in and stored before any heavy frosts1 as it will spoil and start them to rotting4 ,illustration3 ,,small ,,sugar ,,pumpkin4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,golden ,,marrow ,,pumpkin4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,pumpkins4 ,,small ,,sugar4--,this is very handsome and prolific1 of small size1 the pumpkins averaging about ten inches in diameter2 the skin is a deep orange yellow4 ,it is very fine grained in flesh1 sweet in taste1 and an excellent keeper4 ,,golden ,,marrow4--,of round shape1 slightly ribbed and flattened at the ends2 the skin is a rich golden orange color2 the flesh is of extra quality1 and very soft and tender when cooked4 ,it is a splendid keeper1 vigorous grower1 and keeps well throughout the winter4#aa ,,radishes4 ,these should be sown as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring1 and successive sowings should be made every two or three weeks1 as recommended with peas1 lettuce1 etc4 ,do not sow too many at one time1 but sow frequently1 that they may be had fresh and crisp2 they soon become either hollow1 or hard and woody1 if allowed to stand long after they are of sufficient size for use4 ,where there is glass enough to spare1 it is an excellent plan to sow two or three rows in the hotbed at each planting of seeds1 which will furnish them for use several weeks before they can be had from the garden4 ,there is a general impression that radishes do not do well except in very light soil1 while my experience is that it is mainly a matter of manure and cultivation1 and that good radishes can be raised early in the season on the heaviest of soils1 though later in the season they will not succeed unless the soil be favorable4 ,where 8,night ,soil0 can be obtained and composted with ashes1 it will make the finest kind of manure for the radish bed2 but it should be applied with judgment1 as it will burn up any crop if applied too heavily4 ,this manure can hardly be so readily applied in a special location in the garden worked by horse power1 and ,i strongly disapprove of making 8beds0 in such a garden2 it should be kept as level as possible1 that all the cultivation may be done with the wheel and horse hoes2 while 8beds0 mean lots of slow hand work1 and hard beaten ground in the paths and edges1 that are perpetual sources of weeds2 while in the level garden the location of rows and crops can be continually shifted1 every portion of the ground being used1 and none escaping cultivation4 ,for the earliest plantings1 the small1 very early kinds should be used1 and these will grow the finest radishes of the season1 fresh1 crisp1 and slightly pungent4 ,for summer use1 the large summer kinds1 of very mild flavor1 should be selected4 ,these latter should be planted from the first of ,june until the first of ,august1 after which ,i begin to sow the small early kinds again1 having found that ,i can grow them as fine and palatable as in the spring4 ,in sowing these in the kitchen garden ,i sow a part of a row at a time1 in the portion worked with the wheel hoe1 where the rows are about one foot apart2 the seed is sown thinly in the drills1 and if it comes up too thickly1 should be thinned out to one inch apart for the small kinds and two inches for the larger ones4 ,the seed should be sown from one-half inch to one inch in depth1 according as it is early or late in the season or in heavy or light soils4 ,the radishes should be pulled early in the morning and kept in fresh water in a cool cellar until used1 so as to have them fresh1 brittle and crisp4 ,the large winter varieties are not much raised1 except by the ,germans1 being rather too pungent for the ,american taste4#ab ,the seed is generally mixed with the turnip seed and broad-casted or drilled in together1 but if ,i were planting them1 ,i would think it much better to sow them in drills and cultivate separately4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,radishes4 ,,burpee',s ,,earliest 7,scarlet ,button74--,i have grown this new radish for two seasons and consider it the earliest and finest radish that ,i have ever grown4 ,it is the earliest1 about one inch in diameter1 handsome1 crisp and brittle4 ,the color is the deepest scarlet4 ,it has very small leaves1 and a great many can be grown in a small space1 rendering it very valuable for forcing4 ,last winter ,i sowed seed between the rose bushes in my forcing houses and kept my table supplied1 and had large quantities to sell4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,earliest 7,,scarlet ,,button7 ,,radishes4 ,natural size1 when ready for use4 ,,early ,,long ,,scarlet ,,short ,,top4--,this is a fine selection of the long1 slender scarlet radishes so generally seen in the spring1 and is preferred by some to the round or turnip radishes4 ,it is very early1 tender1 crisp and fine flavored2 the roots averaging half an inch in diameter at the top and tapering from that throughout their length of four or five inches4 ,,earliest ,,carmine1 ,,olive-,,shaped4--,a very early radish1 of a rich carmine color1 and while not so early as ,burpee's ,earliest1 attains fully twice the size2 the roots are of an even1 regular olive shape and very fine quality4 ,it is an excellent radish for forcing1 on account of its size and appearance and the small growth of top which it makes1 enabling many to be grown in a small space4#ac ,illustration3 ,,long ,,scarlet ,,radish4 ,illustration3 ,,earliest ,,carmine1 ,,olive ,,radish4 ,,summer ,,varieties ,,of ,,radishes4 ,,golden ,,globe4--,this variety is of very quick growth and fine quality1 being ready for use in from four to six weeks after sowing the seed4 ,in shape it is almost entirely round1 the color quite bright1 and the quality very sweet and crisp4 ,,giant ,,white ,,stuttgart produces very large roots1 frequently reaching the size of an ordinary turnip2 it is very quick growing and resists the heat of summer well1 being firm and brittle until it runs to seed4 ,the skin and flesh are pure white1 a good guarantee of its mild flavor4 ,illustration3 ,,golden ,,globe ,,radish4 ,illustration3 ,,giant ,,white ,,stuttgart ,,radish4 ,illustration3 ,,long ,,white ,,vienna1 ,,or ,,lady ,,finger ,,radish4 ,,long ,,white ,,vienna4--,this is a very fine long1 white radish1 both skin and flesh being pure white2 it is crisp and brittle and rapid in growth1 and to my mind of a much more attractive shape than the large globe radishes1 which1 unless pulled young1 are too large for any but the confirmed lover of radishes4 ,,large ,,white ,,globe4--,a very large1 round1 summer turnip radish1 with pure white skin and flesh1 which is very crisp and brittle4 ,it grows quickly and withstands heat well4 ,it is similar to the ,golden ,globe1 except in color4#ad ,illustration3 ,,large ,,white ,,globe ,,radish4 ,illustration3 ,,california ,,mammoth4 ,,winter ,,varieties4 ,,california ,,mammoth ,,white4--,this is the largest of all radishes1 the roots growing eight to ten inches long and two to three inches in diameter1 while the flesh is solid1 snow white and of excellent flavor4 ,,chinese ,,rose4--,this is a bright1 rose-colored variety1 of very attractive appearance2 it is of excellent quality1 a good keeper1 and one of the best varieties for winter use4 ,,potatoes4 ,a small planting1 say two or three rows1 of these should be made as early as possible in the spring1 the amount planted depending on how soon they will be followed by the main crop4 ,these may be planted in the furrow when the ground is plowed1 but ,i prefer to plant the earliest ones in furrows struck out about three inches deep1 after the ground has been thoroughly prepared1 as they will come up more quickly4 ,the rows should be dressed with phosphate1 to give them a quick growing start1 and the pieces of tuber placed about one foot apart2 the ground may be run over with a sharp spike harrow when the potatoes are just coming through1 or left a little longer and then worked with the cultivator4 ,the soil must be kept well worked1 and as close to the roots as it is possible to run4 ,the bugs must be watched for and destroyed as soon as they appear1 either by dusting with ,paris green mixed with plaster1 or with other insect poisons1 or by picking them off and destroying them by hand1 which is the easier way when the patch is small and potato plants are young4 ,if these early bugs are destroyed before they can lay their eggs1 the work of protecting the summer crop will be greatly lessened4 ,where the main crop of potatoes is to be raised in the garden1 they should be planted about the first day of ,may1 or the middle of ,april1 that they may be harvested by the middle or last of ,august1 and the ground used for a crop of turnips1 peas1 or other second-crop vegetables4 ,as soon as the vines begin to die1 and the skin of the potatoes is well set1 so that it will not rub off with the fingers1 the tubers should be dug or plowed up and stored1 not only that the ground may be used again1 but because1 if they are left in the ground1 they will either start to grow again or begin to rot4 ,when dug1 ,i pile them in small heaps of twenty bushels or so on the barn floor1 dusting each pile as it is made with dry1 air-slacked lime1 about a quart to a heap2 this helps to dry and preserve them1 and prevents any tendency to rot4 ,the barn doors are left open through the day1 for a few days1 and the potatoes dry gradually1 until time for storing them1 when it comes cold1 though where there is a cool vegetable cellar it will save time to store them at once1 and1 of course1 at this time of the year the ventilators of the cellar should be wide open4 ,where the cellar is too warm and the potatoes start to sprout1 it is said that it may be prevented by turning them frequently1 but ,i have never had an opportunity to try it4 ,the first planting should be made of some very early ripening varieties1 while the main crop should be of a kind selected for good size1 heavy cropping1 and the best cooking qualities4 ,,sweet ,,potatoes4 ,like some other vegetables1 these are generally supposed to require special soil and situation to do well1 but with plenty of manure and good cultivation they can be raised of fine size and quality in any garden4 ,as described in the chapter on hotbeds1 the old potatoes are planted in a warm bed1 about the first of ,april1 and when the ground is prepared1 these are taken up and the sprouts broken off close to the potato4 ,the potatoes should be buried two or three inches deep in the bed1 which will give each shoot a bunch of fine roots when it is broken off4 ,when the nights are warm1 and the trees well out in leaf1 plow a double furrow where the row of sweet potatoes is to be2 that is1 run the plow each way in the same furrow2 then fill in two or three inches of fine manure1 and plow the furrows back again1 forming a ridge over the manure4 ,in the centre of this ridge plant the sets about one foot apart2 they must be kept well cultivated1 and the running vines must not be allowed to strike root into the soil1 or they will form lots of small potatoes1 and none large enough for use2 some gardeners keep the vines coiled round the central plant1 but the easier way is to throw the vines from two rows together1 then cultivate the side left bare1 and throw them back again1 cultivating the other side2 after the first time they need not be moved but once for each cultivation1 as the blank side can be cultivated and the vines thrown over on it1 leaving the other side free1 which can be cultivated first the next time it is done1 and the vines thrown back4 ,throwing the vines over can be done very quickly by running a rake handle or long light pole under them1 and throwing its whole length of them over at once3 they can be dug as soon as large enough for use1 by scraping the dirt away from the side of the hill1 the potatoes pulled off1 and the vines left to form more4 ,the whole crop should be dug as soon as the vines are blackened by the first frost1 and spread out in a cool dry place1 where there will be no danger of their freezing4 ,on account of the vines taking so much room1 the rows should be at least five feet apart4 ,,sage4 ,a dozen roots or more of this herb should be planted in some part of the garden where it will not be disturbed by the plow1 or if this cannot be done readily1 the roots can be taken up when the plowing is done1 divided and reset1 which would probably raise a larger and finer crop of leaves than allowing them to stand in the same place year after year4 ,the crop should be cut off a few inches above the ground1 as soon as it has made its growth and before it begins to bloom4 ,the shoots will again start to grow1 and two or three crops can be cut in a season2 the cut tops can be tied in bunches and hung to the rafters1 or spread thinly on the floor of a cool loft or garret4 ,,spinach4 ,this is a quick-growing green1 and very hardy1 making it valuable for early spring and late fall growing4 ,it cannot be raised during summer1 on account of its running immediately to seed without making many leaves4 ,it can be sown as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring1 and will be ready for use in a few weeks2 about three sowings may be made1 two weeks apart1 or more1 if the season is longer1 though it will hardly be good if planted after the middle of ,may4 ,the whole plant is cut off even with the ground1 at any time before it starts to run to seed1 the leaves and stems being used as boiled greens4 ,large sowings should be made in ,october1 of the hardy variety1 as it can be cut throughout the winter2 a later sowing may be made the first of ,november1 and lightly covered with litter when the ground has been frozen hard2 this covering should be raked off early in the spring1 and it will complete its growth before the first spring planting is ready for use4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,spinach4 ,,new ,,thick-,,leaved ,,round4--,this variety produces large1 thick1 dark green leaves1 somewhat crumpled4 ,it possesses the valuable quality of standing for some time after attaining its growth1 before running to seed4 ,illustration3 ,,new ,,long-,,standing ,,spinach4 ,,the ,,norfolk ,,savoy ,,leaved4--,the leaves of this kind are wrinkled like a ,savoy cabbage4 ,it makes a large bunch of succulent leaves1 producing more weight of leaves than any other variety1 and is more hardy than any of the other kinds4 ,,new ,,long ,,standing4--,this is one of the best varieties for spring sowing1 as it stands longer than any other before running to seed4 ,the leaves are thick1 fleshy and crumpled like the ,norfolk ,savoy ,leaved4 ,,squashes4 ,hills should be made for the culture of these1 in the same manner and at the same time as described for cucumbers1 cantaloupes1 etc4 ,these hills should be at some distance from the vines above mentioned1 as there is danger of the pollen mixing and spoiling the melons1 etc4 ,there are some localities where the winter squashes do not do well or are difficult of cultivation2 but the small summer squashes are of easy culture in any locality1 though of finer quality on a warm sunny slope than elsewhere4 ,the only trouble in growing them is to protect them from the ravages of the ,striped ,squash ,bug while young1 for which purpose ,i use slug shot1 dusted on the leaves early in the morning1 while the dew is still on them4 ,the vines should be allowed plenty of room to run1 at least four feet on every side4 ,the vines soon cover the ground and prevent using the cultivator2 but the large leaves so shade the soil that few weeds grow1 and where they rear their heads above the vines they can be cut out with hand hoes or pulled out after a rain1 by hand4 ,as we can hardly use the product of more than a dozen hills1 ,i divide the long row across the garden into three parts1 planting the squashes at one end1 watermelons in the centre1 while the other end is occupied by cucumbers1 which prevents any mixing of pollen1 and gives a sufficient quantity of each fruit without disturbing the symmetry of the garden4 ,in gathering the squashes for table use1 care must be taken that they are not too old1 or they will be tough and stringy when cooked2 the easiest way to judge them is to try them with the nail or small stick2 if it does not cut the skin freely and easily they are too old2 no push should be required to make the cut4 ,this is also a good test when in doubt about the proper condition of sweet corn1 and should be applied to grains near the base of the ear4 ,no old squashes should be allowed to remain on the vines of the summer varieties1 for if they are allowed to ripen1 the vine1 having fulfilled its natural purpose1 will dry up and die1 while if the fruits are picked off1 it will continue to grow and produce fruit4 ,the winter squashes are raised in the same manner1 but are more difficult to start1 as the young plants are subject to a borer which eats them off under ground4 ,plenty of seed should be sown in each hill1 and as soon as you see a plant wilting or cut off1 dig around its roots with your fingers or a stick until you find and kill the borer1 otherwise1 he will continue his labors on the other plants in the hill4 ,the plants should also have careful watching and dusting1 to preserve them from the usual insects that prey on young vines4 ,when the plants are about one foot in length they should be thinned out to two or three in a hill1 though the danger from borers is hardly passed yet1 but to allow them to stand too thickly after attaining this size would stunt them and lessen the crop4 ,the squashes should be gathered before there is any hard frost and stored in a cool1 well-aired cellar4 ,some of the winter varieties are equally good for summer use before they become too old and hard2 if these are planted1 the one planting will furnish fruit for both seasons4 ,,summer ,,varieties ,,of ,,squashes4 ,,early ,,white ,,bush1 ,,or ,,patty-,,pan4--,this is the best known and most generally planted of the early squashes2 when young the quality is very fine1 the flesh is fine grained and of delicate flavor4 ,it is a bush variety and the vine does not 8run40 ,illustration3 ,,early ,,white ,,bush ,,squash4 ,illustration3 ,,golden ,,summer ,,crookneck ,,squash4 ,,golden ,,summer ,,crookneck4--,a small crook-necked summer squash1 the skin of which is a bright yellow color and is covered with warty excrescences4 ,it is early1 productive and of excellent flavor4 ,,white ,,pineapple1 ,,or ,,white ,,turban4--,this variety produces a very handsome fruit1 though of peculiar shape1 as will be seen from the accompanying illustration4 ,the blossom end of the squash is smooth and round1 while from the stem end start ribs or ears1 which attain their largest breadth and end near the middle of the squash2 these ears usually grow in pairs4 ,this variety is of excellent quality1 and can be used at any stage of its growth1 and the full-grown fruits can be preserved for early winter use4 ,the skin and flesh are both of a pure creamy white tint2 the flesh being very thick1 while the seed cavity is quite small4 ,the flesh is fine grained and of the best quality1 possessing a rich cocoanut flavor4 ,illustration3 ,,white ,,pineapple ,,squash4 ,illustration3 ,,essex ,,hybrid ,,squash4 ,,winter ,,varieties ,,of ,,squashes4 ,,essex ,,hybrid4--,a very productive squash of the finest quality and an excellent keeper1 specimens having been kept until ,june1 as sound and good as when gathered4 ,it is one of the richest flavored1 finest grained and sweetest of all squashes1 while at the same time it is one of the largest and most productive1 growing close together on the vines and averaging from eight to twelve pounds in weight4 ,it is of early1 quick growth1 and can be raised very successfully as a second crop1 following early potatoes1 peas1 etc4 ,illustration3 ,,hubbard ,,squash4 ,,hubbard4--,this is a standard and well-known winter squash1 and is of most excellent quality for winter use1 but is not so well adapted to all soils and localities as the preceding varieties1 nor of such easy culture4 ,,tomatoes4 ,these rank with the standard vegetables1 such as corn1 potatoes1 etc41 and yet it is not many years since they were grown in flower gardens only1 the brilliant color of their fruit being then considered quite a pleasing novelty4 ,now1 by the introduction of the canning industry1 there is not a day in the year when they are absent from our table4 ,their culture is of the simplest1 being largely a matter of soil and manure and good early plants1 to be set out as soon as the weather will permit in the spring4 ,the seed is sown in hotbeds1 from the middle of ,march to the middle of ,april2 if possible1 they should be transplanted1 when about two inches high1 to another sash1 where they may stand three or four inches apart4 ,when there is not room for this1 the seed should be sown thinly in drills four inches apart1 and when well started1 should be thinned out to two inches apart in the row4 ,the hotbeds should be given plenty of air on warm days that the plants may be stocky and thrifty when planting-time comes4 ,they should not be set out until the temperature is over #fj at night1 or until the oak trees are well out in leaf4 ,they should have plenty of room1 at least three feet in the row and four feet between the rows1 and for an ordinary family at least four rows should be planted4 ,two rows should be of the earliest and two with plants sown a month later1 for in some varieties there is a tendency to die off after raising one crop1 though constant picking as fast as they ripen1 and not allowing surplus ones to remain on the vines1 will greatly prolong the bearing period2 so much so1 that in most years ,i make but one planting4 ,the earliest hotbed plants will begin to ripen fruit the last week in ,july or the first in ,august1 while1 if you make a hill1 as for corn1 about ,may #ajth1 and put in a dozen or so seed where you want the plant to stand1 pulling all out but the strongest one when they get a good start1 you can have this second lot in bearing about the last of ,august1 without the use of glass or the labor of transplanting4 ,the young plants must be thoroughly cultivated and hoed2 when hoeing1 the dirt should be loosened right up to the plant1 and when it has been worked loose and made fine should be drawn up to the stem1 two or three inches in height4 ,it frequently happens1 when the season is late1 that the plants have grown a foot1 or even two feet1 in height or length4 ,this is no disadvantage1 but rather a help1 if treated in the following manner3 ,a gutter two or three inches in depth and nearly the length of the plant1 is scraped under the planting line with the hoe1 and the plants laid lengthwise in this and covered over1 all but about five or six inches of the top1 which is bent straight upward and afterward treated as though it were a plant of that size2 the long stem underground immediately forms roots and assists in feeding the growth of the plant4 ,the ground should be well manured1 but if the soil is light it can be overdone1 as the plant will run too much to vine and be late in producing fruit4 ,i have found that1 though there is a general impression that tomatoes do best on a light1 sandy soil1 the best tomatoes ,i have ever raised have been on my poorest and heaviest ground4 ,on a plot of ground where the plow turned up the yellow clay at a depth of five or six inches1 ,i have had the ground covered2 covered so that you could hardly put your foot down anywhere in the patch without treading on a tomato1 and not a cracked or rotten one among them4 ,at another time ,i planted all the plants there were at that time of the now famous ,turner ,hybrid1 in a patch of clay soil where young nursery trees had been grown for five years1 and you can ask any nursery-man how much that leaves in the soil4 ,yet this patch produced tomatoes which astonished all beholders and led to its being placed at once upon the market2 and right here ,i would say that the flavor and appearance of this variety have been so fine with me that ,i have obtained double price for my tomatoes since ,i have been growing it4 ,in the last ten years ,i have had the handling of the first stock of three new tomatoes1 each one of which has seemed near perfection when originated1 yet each has been much superior to its predecessor4 ,i mention this only to show how the craft of 8assisting nature10 or gardening1 is always progressing and gaining new interest in the mind of the gardener4 ,there is a constant charm about it1 that1 once it takes possession of you1 never lets go4 ,if the full-sized1 green and partly ripe tomatoes are picked off when there is danger of frost1 and placed under the sash of the cold frame1 or on the floor of the cellar1 they will ripen gradually1 and though not of very fine quality1 may be had fresh almost until ,christmas2 they must1 of course1 be entirely green when picked1 to consume so much time in ripening4 ,if some plants of the golden or yellow varieties are planted1 they will add greatly to the attractiveness of the dish when mingled with the red ones1 served sliced in the ordinary manner4 ,if you save your own seed1 the earliest ripened specimens should be saved for that purpose1 and should be of perfect shape and evenly ripened1 with no core1 crack or rot about them4 ,the easiest way to clean this seed is1 take a small box1 knock the top and bottom off1 and nail some wire fly screening over the bottom2 take the fresh tomatoes1 not rotten ones1 as are frequently used1 and squeeze the seeds into this sieve1 throwing the pulp and flesh away2 the seed can be washed free and clean by running clean water upon them1 keep them constantly stirred and pick out the bits of pulp as they become free and float upon the top of the water1 while the water and finer particles will pass off through the screening4 ,when clean allow all the water to drain off and spread the seeds thinly on a smooth board or cloth in the sun2 they should be stirred frequently1 to prevent their adhering to each other when dry4 ,if seeds are washed out in this manner and carefully dried1 you can depend on every one growing1 while from those saved in the ordinary manner1 from tomatoes that have been allowed to heat and rot1 sometimes not one seed in a hundred will germinate4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,tomatoes4 ,,extra ,,early ,,advance4--,this variety is said to be the earliest in cultivation2 at any rate1 it is certainly a very early variety1 and at the same time its fruits are of large size1 of handsome1 bright1 red color and good quality2 the solid flesh is free from the hard1 green core present in the old varieties4 ,illustration3 ,,extra ,,early ,,advance4 ,,extra ,,early ,,advance ,,tomato4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,cardinal ,,tomato4 ,,burpee',s ,,cardinal4--,i had the pleasure of growing this variety before it was introduced1 having been presented with a small packet of seed by the originator1 who requested me to make a trial of its merits1 and though it was an unfavorable season1 and1 as ,i wished to keep it separate1 ,i could not plant it in my best tomato ground1 its fine qualities exceeded all that he claimed for it4 ,it is of beautiful appearance1 every fruit being a brilliant cardinal red1 uniform in shape1 and without blemish or cracks4 ,the flesh is of the same bright color1 is firm and free from any rot or core1 and is of superior flavor4 ,the vine is very heavy bearing1 and one of the best for all purposes that ,i know4 ,,burpee',s ,,climax4--,this variety resembles somewhat the preceding kind1 excepting that the fruits are a light crimson in color and do not average so large as does the ,cardinal4 ,the fruit matures early1 ripens evenly1 without core or cracks4 ,the flesh is fine-flavored1 solid1 and produces but few seeds2 it is a good kind for all purposes4 ,illustration3 ,,essex ,,early ,,hybrid ,,tomato4 ,,essex ,,early ,,hybrid4--,very early1 solid1 rich flavored and handsome4 ,it is of large size and grows perfectly smooth2 the color is a bright pink1 ripening evenly all over4 ,it is very early1 a great bearer1 and1 being solid1 is a most excellent variety for shipping purposes4 ,,golden ,,queen4--,this is the best yellow tomato that ,i have ever grown4 ,the fruit is of good size1 handsome color1 smooth1 round shape1 and superior quality4 ,they should be in every garden1 for the sake of the pleasing contrast they make when served with the red varieties4 ,illustration3 ,,golden ,,queen ,,tomato4 ,,turner ,,hybrid4--,this variety ,i consider the tomato above all others1 not only for its large size1 handsome appearance and heavy cropping1 but most of all for its superior quality1 which far surpasses that of any other tomato that ,i have over eaten2 and if there is one crop more than another that ,i pride myself upon1 it is my tomatoes4 ,mr4 ,burpee1 of ,w4 ,atlee ,burpee ,co41 gave me1 in #ahhd1 the small paper of seed sent them by a customer1 and ,i planted it1 as stated in the general chapter on tomatoes1 and was so much pleased with it that since that time ,i have planted it altogether for my own use1 with the single exception of a few plants of the ,golden ,queen4 ,it is a rank1 strong grower1 with peculiar foliage1 the vines strongly resembling potato tops4 ,the fruit is very large and remarkably early for the size of the tomatoes2 the average weight of the fruit is from twelve to eighteen ounces1 so it will readily be seen that the size is very large1 while1 as above stated1 ,i do not think it is possible to recommend the quality too highly4#ae ,illustration3 ,,turner ,,hybrid ,,tomato4 ,,turnips4 ,with our hot1 dry summers1 turnips can only be raised satisfactorily as a fall crop4 ,they can be grown as a second crop1 after early sweet corn1 potatoes or peas1 and should be sown as soon as possible after the first of ,august4 ,the ground should be plowed or run over two or three times with the cultivator1 and then harrowed till it is as fine as it is possible to make it4 ,if the seed is sown broadcast1 some winter radish seed should be mixed and sown with it4 ,the ground should be rolled after sowing1 not only to compact the soil round the seeds1 which is essential to good germination1 but also to prevent washing by the ,september rains1 if the ground is at all sloping4 ,but where the finest turnips and a sure crop are desired1 it is much better to sow our garden turnips in drills1 one foot apart if you have a wheel hoe1 or as narrow as you can cultivate1 if you have not4 ,this will tend to having the roots of even size1 and the finest appearance1 as they can be frequently worked4 ,when about three inches high1 or when beginning to form bulbs1 they should be thinned out to four or five inches apart in the rows1 with the narrow hoe1 leaving each bulb to stand by itself4 ,it will be found that by this method1 with careful culture1 a larger as well as a much finer crop can be raised on the same ground than if they were sown broadcast1 and that not half as much seed need be used1 as it is carefully planted just where it is to grow4 ,illustration3 ,illustration showing manner of storing turnips1 beets1 carrots1 etc41 in the garden for winter use4 ,s1 straw covering and ventilating chimney2 ,d1 covering of soil over the straw4 ,about the third week in ,november1 or before there is danger of the ground becoming hard1 the turnips should be pulled and the tops cut off2 take enough in the cellar for immediate use1 and store the rest in heaps4 ,select a well-drained piece of ground1 as directed for burying cabbages2 it will be most convenient to have them near together2 spread about two inches of straw on the ground1 and heap the turnips upon it in the shape of a cone1 not more than ten or fifteen bushels in a heap2 cover this with straw1 an inch or two thick1 and bind it together at the top1 and let it stick up a foot or so above the top of the cone2 then cover the heap with four to six inches of soil1 all but the straw top to the cone1 which acts as a chimney or ventilator2 the roots can thus be kept in good order throughout the winter4 ,the surplus beets and carrots can be put in with the turnips1 and the whole can be gotten at1 any day when the temperature is above freezing1 by making a hole in one side of the heap1 taking out what you want1 and carefully closing the opening again4 ,the straw bottom and sides are not absolutely necessary1 but are a great improvement and convenience1 and will preserve the roots in a much cleaner and finer condition2 the straw not only helping to keep out the frost1 but at the same time providing ventilation for the heap4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,turnips4 ,,early ,,red1 ,,or ,,purple ,,top ,,strap-,,leaved4--,the best known and most generally planted variety4 ,it is a quick grower1 and the flesh is very fine grained and flavored4 ,the red top of the bulb1 which extends down to where it rests in the soil1 adds very much to the appearance of this popular variety4 ,illustration3 ,,purple ,,top ,,strap-,,leaved4 ,illustration3 ,,early ,,white ,,flat ,,dutch ,,turnip4 ,,early ,,white ,,flat ,,dutch4--,this is a quick growing and very early variety4 ,the skin and flesh are a clear white1 and the flesh is solid2 very sweet and juicy1 and of mild flavor4 ,,extra ,,early ,,purple ,,top ,,milan4--,this kind is said to be the earliest of all turnips1 maturing two weeks earlier than the ,early ,red4 ,the bulb is very flat1 of medium size1 quite smooth1 with a bright purple top2 leaves grow very short1 making a small1 neat top4 ,the pure white flesh is solid1 fine grained1 and of superior quality1 even in the largest specimens4 ,it is an excellent keeper1 retaining its good quality throughout the winter4 ,,white ,,egg4--,as its name implies1 this is a pure white turnip1 of egg-shaped growth4 ,it grows very quickly2 has a thin white skin1 and very solid1 fine-grained white flesh4 ,it is very sweet and juicy1 of mild flavor and grows to a good size4 ,it is a good variety for either early or late planting4 ,illustration3 ,,white ,,egg ,,turnip4 ,,watermelons4 ,these are also supposed to require special location and soil1 but can easily be raised in any garden where the climate is warm enough for cantaloupes1 tomatoes1 etc4 ,what they most need is plenty of encouragement1 in the shape of thorough cultivation and liberal feeding with well-rotted manure4 ,the hills are prepared in the same manner as for cantaloupes1 excepting that where the manure or compost can be obtained1 a good-sized hole should be dug1 and well-rotted manure or compost put in as liberally as the supply will admit of1 even half a barrel to the hill4 ,if this kind of hills can be made1 you can plant with seed of some of the large growing varieties1 and be sure of success1 unless your season is very short4 ,if the season is too short1 or if you have not the manure for large hills1 ,i would recommend some of the smaller fruiting varieties1 as they are fully as fine in quality1 ripen early1 and set more melons than the larger kinds4 ,from ten to a dozen seeds should be sown in each hill about the last of ,may1 or when the temperature does not go below #fj at night4 ,when they have got a good start1 thin out to two or three plants in a hill4 ,illustration3 ,,hungarian ,,honey ,,melon ,if your melons are of the tough-rind variety1 as for instance the 8,ironclad10 you can pick them off at the approach of frost1 and by storing them in a cool1 frost-proof cellar1 have them in good condition till ,christmas4 ,though my own opinion is that they lose their attractiveness when the hot weather is gone1 still1 it is always one of the main aims1 in gardening1 to have things out of season as well as at their regular period of ripening4 ,,varieties ,,of ,,watermelons4 ,,hungarian ,,honey4--,this melon is one of the best for the small garden4 ,though not large1 averaging eight to ten inches in diameter1 it is perfectly round1 so that there is a great deal of eating in one of them1 while the quality is not equaled in any other variety4 ,the melons ripen early1 and the vines are vigorous in growth and very productive4 ,as its name1 8,honey ,melon10 implies1 it is sweet and luscious1 and of a rich honey flavor1 melting completely and leaving no stringy fibre in the mouth4 ,the dark green skin1 and intense brilliant red of the flesh1 make a very striking appearance when cut4 ,,burpee',s ,,mammoth ,,ironclad4--,a large melon1 of superior quality1 and where there is room to grow them1 will be found a profitable crop for market4 ,under ordinary culture1 it frequently attains a weight of sixty to seventy pounds4 ,they take their name of ,ironclad from the exceeding toughness of the thin rind4 ,cutting into one is almost like cutting into sheet iron1 though the flesh inside is fresh1 crisp and melting4 ,so strong is this rind1 that ,i have stood on one of the smaller melons with a companion1 our united weight of over #cdj pounds not cracking the ripe flesh within in the slightest degree2 and ,i have seen a wagon load of melons driven over one in the field without damaging it in the slightest4 ,while it does not produce many melons to the vine1 it more than makes up in size and weight what it lacks in quantity1 being a heavy cropper when this is taken into account4 ,the flesh is very beautiful1 of a dainty red color and rich1 sugary flavor4 ,the flesh is never mealy1 but always firm and solid4 ,in shape this melon is oblong1 its length often being two and a half times greater than its diameter4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,mammoth ,,iron ,,clad ,,icing1 ,,or ,,ice ,,rind4--,this is a dark1 green-skinned melon1 of nearly round shape4 ,it is a favorite variety1 on account of the solidity of its flesh1 thin rind1 and rich1 luscious1 sugary flavor4 ,,cuban ,,queen4--,the melons of this variety are very handsome and attractive in appearance2 the skin being striped1 dark1 and light green1 in a pleasing manner4 ,the vines are strong and vigorous in growth1 and bear enormous crops when well manured4 ,the melons are large1 very heavy1 and of the finest quality4 ,the rind is very thin1 being scarcely more than half an inch in thickness on a large melon2 the flesh is bright red1 very solid1 rich1 and sugary4 ,this is one of the very best varieties for general culture in all sections4 ,the shape of this variety is oblong1 being about twice its diameter in length4 ,illustration3 ,,burpee',s ,,cuban ,,queen #aaa-lb ,,cuban ,,queen ,,watermelon4 ,,kolb',s ,,gem4--,the skin of this melon is striped1 as in the ,cuban ,queen1 but is not so handsome1 as there is not the same amount of contrast between the two shades2 the shape is much shorter1 being nearly round4 ,the flesh is bright red1 and of good flavor2 and owing to its tough rind is a very good shipping and keeping variety4#af ,,rhubarb1 ,,currants ,,and ,,gooseberries4 ,these three ,i would plant in the same row1 in the small fruit plot or permanent part of the garden1 mainly because a third of a row of each will afford an ample supply for a good-sized family1 and all require nearly the same treatment4 ,the plants of each are all set together1 each in its own third of the row1 not interspersed4 ,the plants should be set as early in the spring as possible1 or can be planted in the fall and well mulched with manure4 ,the crowns of the rhubarb should be set an inch or two under the surface1 and no stalks pulled until the second or third season2 in the fall1 when the ground is frozen hard1 the old leaves should be pulled off and the row well mulched with long manure2 in the spring this should be worked down to the roots1 when the ground is fit to work1 and the soil kept loose and free from weeds while the rhubarb is making its growth4 ,the stalks can be pulled as soon as they are large enough for use1 and can be pulled until they become so small as to be unfit for use2 then dig in some fine manure or compost1 and let it grow at will until fall1 when the stalks will again be fit for use1 though this second crop is generally allowed to go to waste1 mainly1 ,i think1 through ignorance of the fact that it is just as palatable as in the spring1 and that it can easily be canned for winter use4 ,like asparagus1 it must be liberally and continually fed1 to have it in fine condition and of good size4 ,the currants and gooseberries are subject to the ravages of the currant worm1 which cleans up every leaf and berry on the bushes just as they are about to ripen4 ,to prevent this1 the bushes should be dusted with white hellebore when the first worm makes his appearance2 as this is a very strong poison many are afraid to use it2 and1 indeed1 great care must be taken in using the fruit2 still1 the worms usually appear about the time the bushes are in bloom1 and if promptly welcomed will have disappeared1 and the poison be washed off the bushes before the fruit has formed4 ,any one who does not like to use the hellebore can dust the bushes with road dust or dry wood ashes every morning while the dew is still on the leaves2 care should be taken that the under side of the leaves should receive a good portion of whatever is used4 ,there is still another way of getting rid of these pests1 and that is by hand-picking them2 but any one who has tried it will agree with me that it is a somewhat tedious process when done every morning for a couple of weeks4 ,when the fall comes these bushes should be well mulched1 and in the spring1 before the growth starts1 the old wood should be cut out of them1 care being taken not to trim them too severely2 never take out more than a third of the wood1 or you will trim away your crop of fruit for the season4 ,when the spring opens1 dig in the mulch and keep the ground well worked and free from weeds1 as in the asparagus and rhubarb4 ,,blackberries1 ,,black ,,cap ,,raspberries ,,and ,,red ,,raspberries4 ,the culture is the same for all these1 and they should be planted in liberal quantities1 so that there may be plenty to preserve1 as well as a full supply for the table4 ,in my own kitchen garden ,i have two rows of ,wilson's ,early ,blackberry1 one row ,gregg ,black ,cap1 and one row each of ,philadelphia and ,cuthbert ,raspberries1 and still the family cry for more1 so ,i shall add about two rows of ,wilson1 ,jr4 ,blackberries1 and one of ,lucretia ,dewberry1 in the spring4 ,the dewberry will ripen before the blackberries1 and thus prolong the season1 as is already done with the two varieties of red raspberries4 ,the plants should be planted as early in the spring as the ground can be gotten into suitable condition1 and if purchasing from a nursery1 select those plants which are grown from root-cuttings1 for they will not 8sucker0 so much1 and where the garden is constantly well fed and cultivated this will save much in working1 and the plants being carefully trimmed will last for years without replacing4 ,the rows should be ten or twelve feet apart1 so as to admit of free passage in cultivating and picking4 ,as they do not grow so wildly until after the fruit has been picked1 a couple of rows of peas or a row of early corn can be grown between each row4 ,i have tried planting at closer distances1 with the invariable result that by fall the berry patch was an impassable jungle4 ,for manuring the berries coarse manure should be applied in the fall1 or short1 well-rotted manure in the spring2 in either case plowing it under as applied2 if plowed in the fall the furrows should all be thrown toward the rows1 thus partly banking them over for the winter4 ,in the first warm days in the spring these bushes should have their trimming2 all the old wood that has borne fruit will be dead and should be cut out at the ground4 ,three or four good healthy young shoots should be selected to each plant1 cut off at three and a half or four feet in height1 and the side shoots cut back to three or four inches2 cut off all the rest of the suckers4 ,this is important1 for if too many are left there will be but a small crop of inferior fruit4 ,when the whole patch has been trimmed and cleared up it should be staked2 or each plant may be staked as trimmed1 but the trimming will have to be left until a week or so later1 as the stakes cannot be driven in the frozen ground4 ,for this purpose ,i use old fence rails1 sawing them in the middle and then splitting each piece into two or three stakes1 or the large limbs1 say one to two inches thick1 left from trimming brush1 can be used2 the fence-rail stakes1 however1 last longer than the fresh cut poles1 and are much more easily driven4 ,it will be a great help in picking-time if the row is gone over with a large pair of hedge shears1 and the longest of the young shoots shortened in1 so as to allow easy access to the row4 ,where it is more convenient1 the bearing wood may be cut out as soon as the crop is gathered1 thus throwing all the strength of the plant into the young shoots4 ,where there is not plenty of manure1 bone dust or phosphate can be sown on after the plowing in the spring and worked down with the harrow or cultivator4 ,it1 of course1 takes a good deal of rope to tie all these and a good patch of grape vines up every spring1 so ,i go to a printing office and buy the old ,sisal rope which comes on the bundles of paper2 this is strong1 and can be bought very cheaply1 as it is all in short lengths1 in fact1 most offices would be glad to oblige a good subscriber by giving it to him4 ,the bushes should be planted eight feet apart in the row4 ,,grapes4 ,i grow grapes between the rows of berry bushes1 half way from each row1 which are twelve feet apart4 ,the vines are eight feet apart in the row2 at every vine is planted an old fence rail1 the ends squared off1 and the bottom coated with coal tar before planting2 these stand six feet above the surface1 and from top to top runs a light pole or single strand of wire4 ,the vines are tied up to the posts and out along the rail2 this gives a clear space underneath for keeping the ground worked1 and it bears the crop in the most convenient position for gathering4 ,the vines should be trimmed early in ,february1 that the wounds may contract and harden before the sap flows4 ,the vines should be tied up with fresh rope2 do not depend on any old ties1 as1 though they may look strong1 the birds will pick them to pieces to make nests of4 ,trim the vines to long canes1 two to four to each post1 and divide them at the top1 carrying half out the top pole or wire in each direction2 cut the side shoots back to two eyes each1 as these are the spurs that will furnish the fruit branches4 ,if fruit is desired in finest condition a two-pound paper bag should be tied round the neck1 to the stem of each bunch1 placing the bunch inside1 when the berries are about half grown2 this preserves the grapes from mildew and1 what is more destructive1 the ravages of bees and birds4 ,,strawberries4 ,there should be one or two rows of strawberries across the garden2 the rows four feet apart4 ,it will be found a great deal easier to keep them free from weeds and to gather the fruit when grown in this way4 ,the varieties1 one early and one late1 or both rows of a continuous bearing kind1 should be of the perfect flowering character1 as there are plenty of varieties of this character which are as good and prolific as any pistillate sort grown1 and they are not so much trouble to grow1 or as uncertain a crop4 ,the plants should be set early in the spring1 in well-manured ground1 twelve inches apart in the row1 and should be hoed and cultivated as frequently as possible4 ,as the runners start lay them lengthways of the row and let them root in1 keeping the soil loose and fine1 so that they can easily take hold4 ,the blossoms should be kept picked off the season of planting1 or they will take the strength of the young plant so that it will make but a feeble growth and no runners4 ,in growing the plants in this way the runners should not be allowed to form a row more than one and a half feet wide1 as this will be fully two feet in the second season1 and as much as a picker can manage4 ,the grass particularly should be kept out of the rows of young plants1 or it will take a start in the spring and entirely crowd out the strawberries4 ,these rows should be set out every spring1 taking the plants from the outside of the rows planted the preceding year1 as it is almost impossible to keep them free from weeds after the first season1 besides which they do not bear more than half so many1 nor nearly such large berries1 the second season4 ,unless the ground is very rich where the young plants are set1 it is a good plan to sow a heavy coat of phosphate1 bone1 or1 best of all1 wood ashes1 just before they are worked with the cultivator for the first time in the spring4 ,the young plants should not be planted in land that has just been in sod1 as it is full of white grubs1 which will eat the plants off underground1 and care should also be taken that the manure for the strawberry plot is not infested with them4 ,these rows should be lightly covered with long manure1 old hay or other litter1 in the fall1 after the ground has become frozen hard1 so that they may be protected from rapid freezing and thawing2 and if the covering is not too heavy1 it can be left on in the spring and the plants will shoot up through it1 leaving it as a mulch and serving to keep the berries clean1 by saving them from contact with the ground1 as does the straw mulching1 from which the berry is generally supposed to take its name4 ,in selecting varieties choose those which are recommended as suitable for your soil1 heavy or light1 or such as have proved good in your immediate neighborhood1 as some of the finest kinds are worthless in a different soil from that to which they are adapted4 ,if especially fine1 large berries are desired1 the plants should be set in rows three feet apart1 the plants twelve inches1 as before1 and all the runners kept cut off as fast as they appear4 ,in this case heavy mulching is imperative1 or the stools will be thrown out of the ground in the spring freezing and thawing4 ,when the spring opens1 the mulching should be cleared away from the crown of the plant1 but should be allowed to remain on the ground surrounding the plant1 as the weeds can easily be kept from such a patch1 and fresh fertilizer applied4 ,the patch may be continued in bearing for two or three seasons1 but it will be found a great deal easier if a fresh patch is planted in new ground each year4 ,,compost4 ,this should be prepared in the early spring for use in the hills1 and if it can be stacked in the fall and allowed to rot through the winter1 it will be all the better4 ,it can be composed of barnyard scrapings1 well-rotted manure1 chicken manure1 night soil1 or other strong fertilizer1 mixed with at least an equal bulk of soil or ashes4 ,this should be wet enough to rot thoroughly1 but should not be allowed to lie exposed to the weather where its strength will leach away4 ,when thoroughly mixed1 ,i place it in old barrels under a shed and pour water on top of each barrel occasionally1 to keep it rotting4 ,,manure4 ,a good supply of manure should be either made or bought1 as the garden should have a good dressing at least two years out of three2 the third year ,i usually use a phosphate1 but would use the manure if ,i could spare it1 using also a good dressing of air-slaked lime every two or three years4 ,the manner of applying the lime and phosphate is the same1 but they must not be used the same season1 as the lime will destroy the effect of the phosphate4 ,they are sown on in the spring1 after the ground has been plowed1 and before harrowing1 the harrow thoroughly mixing them with the soil4 ,the supply of manure may be largely increased by pulling up the early peas1 corn1 cabbage stalks1 etc41 as fast as the crops are gathered1 and adding them to the manure heap2 this should be so located that all slops and waste from the house can be thrown upon it1 so as to assist in keeping it constantly rotting2 where corn stalks1 tall weeds1 etc41 are put on the manure heap they should be cut into short lengths1 with a corn cutter or other implement1 to facilitate rotting and handling when the manure is drawn out4 ,,saving ,,seeds4 ,the gardener will consult his judgment and his pocketbook in buying seeds1 as there are many varieties of which1 if he has a good strain1 he can save as good seed as he can buy2 but the greatest care should be used in doing so1 as the quality and quantity will both rapidly deteriorate if inferior specimens are selected from which to save seed4 ,thus it will not do to take off all the best ears of corn1 or the tightest heads of lettuce1 using the nubbins and runts for seed1 or the next year the nubbins will predominate and the lettuce will go to seed without taking the trouble to form a head at all4 ,the best plan is to set apart a section of the row of each variety for seed1 and not gather any for use from that part2 here all the nubbins and inferior specimens could be pulled off1 throwing the full strength of the plant into the finest fruits2 and the same way with the vines2 one or more hills1 as desired1 could be kept for the purpose of bearing seed only4 ,all seeds should be thoroughly cleaned and dried1 and each package should be carefully marked with name and date before storing4 ,the seed chest should be in some cool place where there is no danger of frost or very warm heat1 and1 most of all1 no danger from dampness4 ,it is important to have the date of saving the seed marked1 so that when all is not used it may be kept1 as frequently a crop fails from a bad season or other causes1 and a new lot of equal merit cannot be obtained1 the date serving to tell how good the seed is2 seed of some vegetables retaining vitality for only two years1 and others as long as ten years4 ,,how ,,and ,,what ,,to ,,grow ,,in ,a ,,kitchen ,,garden ,,of ,,one ,,acre4 ,,the ,,second ,,prize ,,essay4 ,,by ,,miss ,l4 ,m4 ,,moll4 ,to insure success in horticulture1 the first requisite is a deep1 rich1 well-drained soil4 ,for a garden1 nothing can be more important than good drainage4 ,soil properly drained is warmer1 dries faster1 and can be worked earlier in the spring2 it is easier to work in a wet season1 and more open and moist in a dry season4 ,taking for granted1 then1 that the ground has perfect drainage1 it should be plowed deeply in the fall1 so as to allow the frost to penetrate and sweeten the soil4 ,in addition to this1 the frost will be out sooner in the spring1 and the superfluous moisture drained off more quickly1 thus leaving the land in a workable condition at least a week earlier4#ag ,putting manure on the ground in the fall1 or during winter1 is a practice ,i would not recommend1 because some of its most valuable portions are sure to be washed into the drains by the melting snow and spring rains1 leaving the plants rather a meagre supply of nourishment to draw from when they come to need it most4 ,the proper way to do is to give the ground a liberal spreading of thoroughly decomposed barnyard manure in spring1 as soon as the land is in a workable condition4#ah ,this should immediately be plowed in1 and be followed with a sharp1 weighted harrow1 to thoroughly pulverize and mix the soil4 ,this is important1 as the surface of the soil is not so liable to harden or bake afterwards1 if the ground is well worked in the spring4 ,the soil is also permeated to a greater depth by the sun and air1 causing healthier and quicker growth1 consequently better and earlier vegetables4 ,the form of our one-acre patch should1 by all means1 be a rectangle1 made longer than wide1 with the rows running lengthwise1 and all perfectly straight1 and everything else so arranged that as much of the cultivation can be done by horse power as possible4 ,but let me say right here1 that no one should undertake the cultivation of a kitchen garden without being willing to do a reasonable portion of the work by hand4 ,this part of the work can1 however1 be greatly lessened by using the various labor-saving garden implements1 to be purchased at reasonable rates1 of most seed firms4 ,if 8variety is the spice of life10 it can certainly nowhere be more desirable than in the kitchen garden1 which is to supply our table with its yearly demand for choice vegetables2 ,i say choice1 since every one having the care of a garden should strive to grow everything of the very best1 and that1 too1 in great abundance and variety4 ,the most convenient mode of arranging the different kinds of vegetables is to2 #ast1 ,place the perennial plants in one bed1 running the entire length of the ground2 #b;d1 ,plant the vegetables side by side which are to remain out all winter1 so as not to interfere with next spring's plowing2 #c;d1 ,arrange side by side those varieties which require the whole season to mature2 and1 #dth1 ,put beside each other the quickly maturing kinds1 which may be succeeded by other varieties1 in order that the ground to be occupied by a second crop may be all in one piece4 ,the preliminaries being arranged1 we are now ready to go into details1 and to this end we shall first take under consideration the permanent bed1 so called from the fact that it is to contain such perennials as asparagus1 rhubarb1 horse radish1 artichoke1 and chives2 also parsley1 and a collection of herbs1 without which no garden is complete4 ,the herbs are placed here because they require a soil especially prepared for them1 by the addition of either fine sand or sifted coal ashes1 to make it mellow and dry4 ,illustration3 ,,diagram ,,of ,,the ,,garden4 ,,asparagus4 ,asparagus1 one of the best and earliest of spring vegetables1 would be in universal use1 but for the prevalent though erroneous idea that it is difficult to grow4 ,being a gross feeder1 the soil can scarcely be too rich4 ,although the process of deep trenching is now being discarded1 yet1 to attain the best result it is necessary that a large quantity of rotted manure be worked into the bed1 to a depth of at least #ah inches4 ,instead of losing two years' time by raising plants from seed1 send and get strong two-year old plants early in spring4 ,set these in the prepared bed1 #ah inches apart each way1 and about six inches deep4 ,give frequent and thorough cultivation1 and as soon as the tops are ripe in fall1 cut off and burn them1 to prevent the nuisance of seedling asparagus about the garden4 ,next spring1 and for at least fifteen years after1 the bed should give a full crop1 and should have a heavy dressing of manure put on each fall1 which should be spaded in before the shoots appear in spring1 together with a sprinkling of three pints of salt per square rod4 ,to facilitate gathering1 make the bed of such a width as that the centre can be reached from both sides4 ,cut all shoots as soon as they appear1 till the time for the final cutting1 which will vary from the middle of ,may to the middle of ,june1 according to latitude and your fondness for this most delicious plant4 ,,rhubarb4 ,rhubarb1 known familiarly as ,pie ,plant1 succeeds best in deep1 somewhat retentive soil4 ,coming1 as it does1 before berries or fruit1 its acid leaf stalks form an admirable substitute4 ,it may be raised from seed1 but to get the quickest returns procure strong roots in spring1 and plant them three feet apart each way1 the ground having first been fertilized and dug to a considerable depth4 ,never permit a plant to exhaust itself by seed-bearing2 stir the soil often1 cover with coarse litter in fall1 fork it over in the following spring1 and you may rely upon a good supply of pie plant for many years to come4 ,,horse ,,radish4 ,the best is grown by planting #h-;inch lengths of root grown the previous year4 ,these young roots planted in spring1 small end down1 with the top two inches below the surface1 in rich1 well-cultivated soil1 will form radish of large size and superior quality1 in one season's growth4 ,after having several weeks' growth rub off the young side roots from the newly-planted roots1 to increase the size and insure a smooth1 well-shaped root4 ,see to it that no roots are scattered about the garden1 as every piece of root1 however small it may be1 will1 in a short time1 become a strong plant1 difficult to eradicate1 and thus prove how annoying a good thing is in the wrong place4 ,,globe ,,artichoke4 ,the ,globe ,artichoke is cultivated for its flower heads1 which are cooked like asparagus1 in an undeveloped state4 ,on account of its hardiness1 easy culture and perennial nature1 this plant should be more generally grown4 ,plants raised from seed sown the previous year1 set in any good garden soil two feet apart1 with slight covering in winter1 will remain in bearing a long time4 ,,jerusalem ,,artichoke4 ,the ,jerusalem ,artichoke needs only to be planted in order to thrive4 ,its tubers can be made into quite palatable pickles1 and ,i have seen instances where1 in the absence of cucumber pickles1 the artichoke tuber was prepared the same way and used as a substitute4 ,,chives4 ,chives are perfectly hardy perennial little members of the onion tribe1 and are grown exclusively for their tops1 which are used wherever the flavor of onion is required4 ,planted in small clumps in any common garden soil1 they will grow readily1 and in time increase so as to render a division necessary4 ,the tops appear very early in spring1 and can be shorn throughout the season1 hence this valuable little plant should have a place in every garden4 ,,parsley4 ,as parsley seed is so obstinate about germinating in spring1 it does better if sown in autumn1 as soon as ripe4 ,where that is not possible1 the seed may be sown in spring1 but 8don't look for the plants till you see them coming10 since parsley seed just comes up when it feels like coming up1 and not before4 ,the plants should be given a moist1 rich soil and a partly-shaded situation4 ,the curled sorts are ornamental1 but the plain-leaved is best for general use in cookery4 ,when once established1 a supply can easily be kept up from self-sown seed4#ai ,,aromatic ,,herbs4 ,aromatic or ,sweet ,herbs are worthy of more attention than they generally receive4 ,if cooks used them more freely1 doctors would have less occasion for prescribing them4 ,the soil of the herb bed should be mellow and warm1 but not over-rich4 ,deep1 fertile soil produces an increase in size and foliage at the expense of fragrance1 strength and flavor4 ,the seeds should be sown as early in spring as the ground can be prepared4 ,sweet ,basil1 ,summer ,savory1 ,sweet ,marjoram1 ,sage and ,thyme are grown for their foliage1 which is used for seasoning1 while ,sweet ,fennel1 ,dill1 ,coriander1 ,anise and ,caraway are chiefly prized on account of their aromatic seeds4 ,aside from being useful for culinary purposes1 most of the above-named plants possess valuable properties4 ,this completes the permanent bed4 ,before proceeding any further ,i wish to have it understood that hereafter1 in the course of this paper1 all seeds advised to be sown broadcast are to be sown in long1 narrow beds1 with narrow walks between the beds1 for convenience in gathering the crop and to protect the plants from being trodden upon4 ,where sowing in drills is advised1 it is likewise to be understood that all drills are to be not less than eighteen inches apart1 and the cultivation between them to be done with a hand cultivator or wheel hoe1 followed by hand hoeing between the plants if necessary4 ,where planting in rows is recommended1 it is intended that all rows1 unless otherwise mentioned1 should be not less than two and a half feet apart1 to admit of the cultivation with a one-horse plow or cultivator1 followed also by hand hoeing around the plants or hills4 ,concerning the distance plants should be apart in the rows or otherwise1 it may be safely said that each plant should stand so that when fully matured its outside leaves will just touch those of its nearest neighbor4 ,this rule does not apply to onions and root crops1 which may stand closer4 ,concerning the best varieties of the different kinds of vegetables the reader is referred to the catalogues of reliable seedsmen4 ,i shall recommend such varieties as ,i know to be good from personal experience4 ,,parsnips ,,and ,,salsify4 ,alongside of the permanent bed1 plant parsnips and salsify4 ,parsnip seed germinates slowly and quickly deteriorates by age1 therefore early sowing and seed of unquestionable freshness are of primary importance4 ,the subsoil should by all means be thoroughly loosened by the subsoil plow1 unless it is naturally of a loose1 friable texture4 ,when it is borne in mind that parsnip roots grow wholly under ground1 and when well grown measure over eighteen inches in length1 the necessity for this will be seen at once4 ,sow in drills and thin to five inches apart4 ,parsnips may safely be left in the ground all winter1 as frost greatly improves them in saccharine quality4 ,salsify or oyster plant1 as the name implies1 possesses the flavor of the oyster to a marked degree1 and is highly esteemed by many on this account4 ,it should have the same treatment in every respect as directed for the parsnip1 and like it1 too1 is improved by frost4 ,in the ground adjoining the parsnips and salsify1 plant such vegetables as lettuce1 spinach1 radish1 peas1 bush beans1 onions1 kohl rabi1 early cabbage1 cauliflower1 early potatoes and sweet corn4 ,these mature nearly in the order named1 and in time enough to be succeeded by other vegetables which will be mentioned hereafter4 ,,lettuce1 ,,spinach ,,and ,,radish4 ,seed of lettuce1 spinach and radish should be sown broadcast and as early as possible1 with later sowings at intervals of about two weeks for a successive supply4 ,soil for lettuce and spinach should be of more than ordinary richness1 and should contain sufficient moisture to insure rapid continuous growth4 ,the best lettuce heads are raised by sowing seed in a hotbed and transplanting to the open ground when plants are two inches high4 ,cabbage varieties should be selected for this purpose4 ,in this way ,i have grown heads of the ,new ,york ,lettuce to weigh two pounds each1 under ordinary treatment4 ,hanson1 ,burpee's ,golden ,heart and ,perpetual ,lettuce are all good sorts4 ,the ,cos varieties do best if tied up a few days before using1 to blanch all the inner leaves4 ,the ,radish will thrive in any good garden soil1 but a light sandy loam is better than heavily manured ground4 ,in order to be crisp and tender1 the growth should be rapid and unchecked4 ,i can recommend ,french ,breakfast1 ,golden ,globe1 ,white ,stuttgart and ,chartiers4 ,the latter is of unusual merit4 ,,peas4 ,as we all want green peas as early as possible1 the seed should be planted early--the earlier the better4 ,peas will bear a great deal of cold without the slightest injury1 either in the ground or after they are up4 ,sow in drills at the rate of one pint of seed to thirty-five feet of drill4 ,to keep up a succession make a sowing of an early1 medium1 and a late variety at the same time4 ,in about two weeks make another sowing as before4 ,soil for early varieties should be warm and very rich4 ,late varieties should be planted deeper than early sorts1 but the soil should not be so rich1 as late varieties are more productive on moist1 cool ground1 not over rich4 ,philadelphia ,extra ,early1 ,american ,wonder and ,telephone can be relied upon4 ,after trying various methods for training pea vines ,i am satisfied that brush is the most effective support4 ,place a few short twigs or sticks on each side of dwarf peas1 to prevent them from leaning over and decaying on the ground1 as is often the case in a wet season4 ,,dwarf ,,or ,,bush ,,beans4 ,dwarf or bush beans should not be planted before danger from frost is over4 ,being very tender1 nothing is gained by planting earlier4 ,they may be planted in hills one foot apart1 with four plants to the hill1 but the better way1 ,i think1 is to plant in drills1 with plants three inches apart in the drill4 ,seed should be covered lightly with mellow soil4 ,beans often fail to come up1 from being covered too deeply1 especially if there is much rain after planting4 ,two plantings of both early and late varieties1 at intervals of two weeks1 will give a supply until pole beans come in season4 ,beans should never be hoed while the foliage is wet1 as that produces rust4 ,black ,wax1 ,early ,valentine and ,golden ,wax are standard sorts4 ,,onions4 ,onions may be raised successfully either from seed or from sets4 ,if to be grown from seed no time should be lost in getting it sown in the spring4 ,sow in drills and thin the plants when about the size of quills1 disturbing the remaining plants as little as possible4 ,for southern latitudes and for an early supply it is better to grow onions from sets planted three inches apart1 in drills4 ,sets are small onions grown the previous year1 from seed sown quite thickly4 ,sets may be planted very early1 as they will not be injured even if the ground should freeze after they are planted4 ,wethersfield and ,danvers are good varieties4 ,for extra large specimens1 select ,italian varieties4 ,,kohl ,,rabi1 ,,early ,,cabbage ,,and ,,cauliflower4 ,seed of kohl rabi1 early cabbage and cauliflower should be sown in a hotbed1 and the plants transplanted to the open ground when four inches high4 ,kohl rabi is grown for its turnip-shaped bulb1 which is formed above ground1 by the expansion of the stem4 ,the bulb should be used while young and tender1 as age detracts from its good quality4 ,set the plants eight inches apart in the row4 ,for later use sow seed in drills and thin to the proper distance apart4 ,when well grown and properly prepared for the table1 the kohl rabi is one of the most desirable of vegetables1 and should be in every garden4 ,early ,white ,vienna is the best variety4 ,plant early cabbage in rows1 with plants eighteen inches apart in the row4 ,after trying several different sorts ,i have decided upon ,early ,jersey ,wakefield1 ,early ,flat ,dutch1 and ,fottler's ,brunswick1 as the best varieties for this latitude1 and1 as the cabbage worm has made late cabbage an uncertain crop for several years past here1 in southern ,illinois1 we have planted largely of the ,early ,flat ,dutch cabbage and had it picked and put up before the cabbage worm made its appearance4 ,this ,i know1 from experience1 to be better than the use of all the insect powders combined4#bj ,to grow cauliflower to perfection1 the ground needs extra heavy manuring1 and the plants must be supplied with an abundance of water as soon as heads begin to form4 ,plants should stand the same distance apart as early cabbage4 ,the outside leaves should be pinned together over the centre1 to shield the head from the direct rays of the sun1 which often cause it to turn green1 thus rendering it inferior in quality or entirely unfit for use4 ,early ,snowball and ,erfurt are both good and reliable4 ,nowhere does success depend more on the quality of the seed than in the cauliflower4 ,,sweet ,,corn4 ,sweet corn should be planted as soon as the ground is reasonably warm1 in hills1 three feet apart1 three plants to a hill4 ,the season for sweet corn can be greatly prolonged by planting early and late sorts1 at intervals of a few weeks4 ,there are many good early kinds1 but ,i think the best late variety is ,stowell's ,evergreen1 which produces ears of the largest size1 that remain in a condition fit for the table longer than those of any other variety of sweet corn4 ,,potatoes4 ,if you wish to enjoy new potatoes early in the season1 your seed potatoes must be planted as early in the spring as the ground can be prepared4 ,plant them one foot apart in the row and cover with the corn plow4 ,i would advise the planting of medium-sized potatoes in preference to large ones cut to pieces4 ,if large ones must be used cut them a few days beforehand1 so that the newly cut surface may dry before planting1 otherwise1 there is danger of the pieces rotting in the ground1 especially if there is much rain immediately after planting4 ,the ,early ,ohio gave us excellent returns for several years in succession4 99 99 99 99 99 ,we will next take under consideration that portion of the garden devoted to the vegetables requiring the greater part of the season to mature4 ,the most important of these are3-- ,,egg ,,plants1 ,,tomatoes1 ,,pole ,,beans1 ,,beets1 ,,carrots1 ,,late ,,cabbage1 ,,cucumbers1 ,,squashes ,,and ,,sweet ,,potatoes4 ,sow ,egg ,plant and ,tomato seed in a hotbed and remove the young plants to a cold frame when three inches high1 from whence do not remove them till the weather is settled and warm4 ,egg ,plant will repay the extra care it requires1 and should be in every garden4 ,handle the plants very carefully in transplanting1 and never remove them to the open ground before the nights are warm4 ,at the ,north plants may be grown in flower pots plunged in a cold frame till the weather is sufficiently warm4 ,plants should stand #b feet apart in the row1 and the soil should be very rich and warm4 ,new ,york ,purple is the leading variety1 but those who succeed with the ,black ,pekin cannot fail to be pleased with its large1 glossy fruits4 ,when all danger from frost is over1 carefully transplant the ,tomato plants from the cold frame to the open ground1 to stand two feet apart in the row4 ,as they grow tie them up on a trellis and remove all superfluous branches1 so as to give the growing fruit the benefit of full sunshine1 without which it will be of inferior quality and scarcely worth the having4#ba ,nothing can be worse than allowing tomato plants to grow along the ground at will without any support4 ,better it would be not to grow any at all than to degrade them in that manner4 ,make a small trellis1 four feet high1 by nailing a few pieces of lath across small stakes driven into the ground4 ,i regard ,livingston's ,perfection as an excellent variety1 and have grown extra large specimens of the ,mikado1 which1 by the way1 seems to have been cast in the same mold as the ,turner ,hybrid4#bb ,be this as it may1 ,i can heartily recommend either variety to all wishing to grow fine1 solid1 enormous-sized tomatoes4 ,,pole ,,beans1 as the name implies1 require poles or some other support for the vines to twine upon4 ,the poles must be set firmly1 to prevent being blown over by the wind4 ,where poles are not procurable1 the vines may be trained upon strings stretched up and down along two wires1 which are stretched and firmly fastened to posts or stakes1 one wire above and the other below4 ,pole ,bean trellis1 seven feet high1 can be purchased1 and will answer the purpose for which they are intended4 ,the best pole bean of its kind is the ,large ,white ,lima4 ,being very tender1 it should not be planted before the ground is warm4 ,the beans will come up sooner if the eye in the seed is placed downward4 ,the seed should be lightly covered with mellow soil1 as this bean1 considering its size1 has less penetrating power in coming up than any other kind4 ,in rainy seasons ,i have covered the seed with coffee grounds1 which never became compact or hard from the beating rains1 and nearly every bean came up nicely1 while those covered with earth were almost a total failure4#bc ,the ,large ,white ,lima is generally considered difficult to grow1 but ,i cannot say so1 as ,i have grown it without much difficulty1 and had beans to perfection by the pailful throughout the summer4 ,mine were planted in very rich soil and the rows were about four feet apart1 three plants to a hill1 and the hills two feet apart4 ,if supported by a trellis1 beans should be placed one foot apart in the row4 ,the above applies to all pole beans1 whether ,limas or string beans4 ,of the latter class of beans ,i have found ,white ,creaseback a variety of great merit4 ,southern ,prolific and ,dutch ,case ,knife are also good4 ,at the ,north1 where the seasons are too short for the ,large ,lima1 the ,small ,lima or ,sieva1 as it is also called1 should be planted4 ,sow ,,beet and ,,carrot seed as early in spring as possible4 ,sow in drills and thin beets to five inches and carrots to three inches apart in the drill4 ,to have ,beets early we sometimes sow seed of an extra early variety in the hotbed and transplant to the garden when plants are a few inches high4 ,the same may be done with early carrots4 ,sow ,early ,scarlet ,horn ,carrot for early use and ,long ,red ,coreless for fall and winter4 ,eclipse is one of the best early ,beets and ,long ,blood ,red is the very best late variety4 ,sow late ,,cabbage seed in a seed bed1 when danger from frost is over1 and when plants are three inches high1 plant them in rows three feet apart1 with plants #b feet apart in the row4 ,late ,flat ,dutch1 ,burpee's ,surehead and ,large ,late ,drumhead are reliable sorts4 ,,cucumber and ,,squash seeds should under no consideration be planted before the weather is settled and warm1 as the young plants are extremely tender and sensitive to cold4 ,cucumber hills should be four feet apart each way1 and squash hills should be six feet apart4 ,scatter about a dozen seeds in a hill1 and when the second pair of leaves have formed1 remove all but three of the strongest plants4 ,no fruit should be permitted to ripen on cucumber vines1 as this greatly weakens the plant and prevents it from further setting fruit4 ,pinching off the tips of winter squash vines when they are about three feet long increases their productiveness4 ,early ,green ,cluster1 ,white ,spine1 and ,london ,long ,green are good varieties of cucumbers4 ,the list of desirable squashes is long1 but whoever grows the ,pineapple and the ,brazil ,sugar ,squash for early use1 and the ,essex ,hybrid and ,hubbard for winter use1 will not be disappointed4 ,the term 8hills10 as used here and elsewhere in this paper1 does not imply heaped-up soil1 but simply means that several seeds are to be planted together in one place1 on a level with the rest of the ground4 ,this ,i have found to be better than heaping up the ground to form hills1 which soon dry out and are difficult to water4#bd ,the only plant requiring hills or ridges is the ,,sweet ,,potato4 ,throw several furrows together with a plow and draw the soil up with a hoe1 to form a tapering ridge2 two feet high and three feet wide at the bottom4 ,the plants1 which are obtained by planting the tubers in a hotbed1 are planted two feet apart on top of this ridge4 ,being of tropical origin1 the sweet potato plants should never be planted till danger from frost is over4 ,one hoeing is generally sufficient1 as the vines soon cover the ridge1 but these should not be allowed to take root1 as that diminishes the productiveness of the plant4 ,late varieties are of better quality than the early ones4 ,,peppers1 ,,gumbo ,,and ,,leeks4 ,no garden is complete without at least a few plants of peppers1 gumbo and leeks4 ,to grow ,,peppers to perfection1 the young plants should be grown in the hotbed and be transplanted to very rich soil1 from twelve to eighteen inches apart1 according to variety4 ,when they commence blooming1 a liberal quantity of hen manure should be strewn around each plant and be hoed in4 ,this will increase the product wonderfully4 ,burpee's ,ruby ,king and ,golden ,dawn are two superb new varieties4 ,,gumbo1 or ,,okra1 is grown for its seed pods1 which are used in soups and stews4 ,plant the seed eighteen inches apart1 when the ground is warm1 in spring1 and use the pods while young and tender4 ,sow ,,leek seed very early1 in a seed bed1 in a sheltered place1 if possible4 ,when plants are about six inches long1 transplant them to trenches six inches deep1 with very rich soil at the bottom4 ,fill up the trenches as the plants grow1 and later draw soil up to them4 ,as a result1 you will have fine1 large leeks1 blanched a foot long1 which may be kept all winter if dug up with the roots on1 and stored in moist sand in the cellar4 ,aside from being valuable for soups and salads1 blanched leek makes an excellent dish when sliced and cooked like green peas4 ,this fact does not seem to be generally known1 as well-grown leek is so seldom seen in kitchen gardens4#be ,we will now go back again to the ground adjoining the parsnips and salsify4 ,the early vegetables will mature and be harvested one after the other1 so that there will be enough vacant ground in time for-- ,,celery1 ,,endive1 ,,turnips1 ,,winter ,,radishes1 ,,kale1 ,,corn ,,salad1 ,,winter ,,lettuce ,,and ,,winter ,,spinach4 ,sow ,,celery seed in a hotbed or cold frame4 ,when a few inches high1 plant five inches apart1 in a bed1 in the open ground1 which should be especially prepared for the purpose by extra heavy manuring4 ,let the plants remain in this bed1 to grow strong and stocky4 ,never let the ground in this bed become dry2 give thorough cultivation and cut off the tops of the plants once or twice1 to make them grow stocky4 ,when six or eight inches high1 lift the plants carefully and set them six or eight inches apart1 in trenches a foot wide and fourteen or more inches in depth4 ,several inches of rotted stable manure should be mixed with the soil at the bottom of the trench4 ,when planting1 firm the ground well around each plant4 ,supply enough water to keep the ground at the bottom of the trench very moist all the time4 ,as the plants grow1 press soil around the bottom of each plant and tie together at the top with string1 to keep the stems straight and in an upright position4 ,the blanching or earthing up is done by gradually filling up the trench with ground as the plants grow4 ,care should be taken not to get any ground into the hearts of the plants and never to earth up while they are wet4 ,sowing seed in the open ground and growing plants on the level surface may do for cool northern latitudes1 but my experience is that it will not do here in southern ,illinois4 ,boston ,market and ,crawford's ,half ,dwarf are as good as any of the taller varieties1 and are more easily blanched4#bf ,seed of ,,endive should not be sown early1 as this plant is grown chiefly for late summer and autumn salad4 ,in this latitude we sow at intervals from the middle of ,june to the #ast of ,august4 ,seed may be sown either broadcast or in drills1 but the plants should be thinned so as to stand from six to nine inches apart4 ,it may also be sown in a seed bed and be transplanted to the proper distance apart4 ,when the plants are full grown1 tie all the outside leaves together over the heart1 to blanch the inner leaves1 which will take about a week4 ,to keep up a constant supply1 some should be tied up every few days4 ,never tie up when the leaves are wet or they will soon decay4 ,green ,curled and ,batavian are both very good4#bg ,,turnip and winter ,,radish seed may be sown from the latter part of ,july to the middle of ,august4 ,if the ground is reasonably free from weed seeds it is advisable to sow broadcast1 otherwise it is better to sow in drills4 ,in either case1 it is well to remember that the plants should be1 like the first settlers1 without a near neighbor4 ,the size and quality of the turnips and radishes will depend1 to a great extent1 upon thin sowing of the seed1 or1 what is still better1 a judicious thinning of the plants when young4 ,the largest and sweetest turnips we have ever grown were of the ,purple ,top ,strap-leaved variety1 and were grown as a second crop after onions4 ,the seed was sown broadcast1 and no further attention given the plants except thinning while young4 ,in the same manner and on similar soil we raised ,white and ,black ,spanish winter radishes of excellent quality1 that weighed from four to seven pounds each4 ,the ,chinese ,rose1 though not so large1 is the handsomest and one of the best winter radishes grown4 ,the ,california ,mammoth is a superb fall radish1 but does not keep well in winter4 ,the ,white ,stuttgart is regarded as a summer radish1 but ,i have had it1 grown as a winter radish1 to keep firm and solid till ,april4 ,,kale1 or ,,borecole1 is a valuable plant for spring greens4 ,the variety called ,dwarf ,german ,greens is best for this purpose4 ,sow seed in drills about ,september #ast1 and give thorough cultivation till the approach of cold weather4 ,when winter sets in1 give protection with a covering of straw or similar material1 put on so as not to smother the plants4 ,the most effective way of doing this is to place a layer of fine brush or cornstalks between the drills1 to a height equal to or exceeding the height of the plants in the drills4 ,then cover all with a layer of clean straw1 six inches deep4 ,the object of putting the brush between the drills is to provide an air cavity between the plants and the covering4#bh ,,corn ,,salad1 or ,,vetticost1 is a valuable little plant which is used for salad1 the same as lettuce4 ,for spring use1 sow the seed any time during the month of ,september1 and at the approach of cold weather cover the bed with a few inches of straw or hay4 ,it should be used very early in spring1 as it soon runs to seed when warm weather sets in4 ,although this plant will bear neglect1 it will also repay good treatment4 ,seed of winter ,,spinach and winter ,,lettuce should also be sown during the month of ,september1 and the plants should be protected with a covering of straw1 or similar material1 during winter4 ,put on part of the covering when the ground begins to freeze1 and as the cold increases1 add covering till it reaches a depth of four or five inches4 ,in regions where heavy snowfalls can be depended upon1 it may not be necessary to protect any of the above-named plants1 but here and elsewhere1 where winters are severe and the snowfall light1 it is of the utmost importance to provide protection1 or no success need be expected4 ,hammersmith is the best winter lettuce1 and ,round ,leaf and ,prickly ,winter are two good varieties of spinach for fall sowing4 ,the beds of kale1 corn salad1 winter lettuce and winter spinach should be arranged side by side1 and alongside of the parsnips and salsify1 so as not to interfere with the plowing of the ground in fall and in spring4 ,as some of the parsnips and salsify will be left in the ground to be dug at leisure in spring1 it is best to have all these vegetables side by side1 so that when the parsnips and salsify#bi are dug1 and the crop of kale1 corn salad1 etc41 harvested1 the whole ground can be plowed at once4 ,before closing1 a few words in regard to watering and transplanting may not prove amiss4 ,the best time for watering is in the evening4 ,though water may be given to the roots at any time1 it should never be sprinkled on the foliage in the hot sun1 as that causes brown spots or blisters where it comes in contact with the leaves4 ,more injury than good results from beginning to water a plant1 and then not keeping it up till the necessity ceases4 ,as soon as the ground begins to get dry after watering1 the soil should be stirred with the hoe4 ,when you start to water a plant1 do it thoroughly1 so as to give the roots a soaking at every watering1 or else do not water at all4 ,the main points to be regarded in transplanting1 are handling the plant carefully1 so as to injure the roots as little as possible1 planting firmly and shading to prevent the sun from withering or scorching the leaves4 ,it should be borne in mind1 that it is not nature's design that a plant should be transplanted1 and we ought to show sympathy for a plant as well as for our fellow-creatures4 ,and now1 having taken a walk with you through the kitchen garden1 all ,i have further to say is1 may you be favored with seasonable rain and sunshine1 for1 be it remembered1 without the co-operation of the elements all our efforts are in vain4 ,,index4 ,aromatic herbs1 #agf4 ,artichoke1 ,globe1 #age4 ,jerusalem1 #age4 ,asparagus1 #dj1 #agc4 varieties of1 #dc4 ,barr's ,mammoth1 #dc4 ,conover's ,colossal1 #dc4 ,purple ,top1 #dc4 ,beans1 #dc4 ,bush ,beans1 #df1 #ahj4 ,best of ,all ,dwarf ,bean1 #df4 ,black ,wax1 #ahj4 ,burpee's ,perfection ,wax1 #dd4 ,champion ,bush ,bean1 #dh4 ,early ,valentine1 #ahj4 ,golden ,wax1 #df1 #ahj4 ,limas1 #ej4 ,dreer's ,improved ,lima1 #ej4 ,extra ,early ,lima1 #ej4 ,king of the ,garden1 #ej4 ,pole ,beans1 ,snap ,varieties1 #dh1 #ahe4 ,burpee's ,white ,zulu1 #dh4 ,dutch ,case ,knife1 #ahf4 ,golden ,wax ,flageolet1 #dh4 ,large ,white ,lima1 #ahe4 ,lazy ,wife's1 #dh4 ,southern ,prolific1 #ahf4 ,white ,creaseback1 or ,best of ,all1 #dh1 #ahf4 ,beets1 #ea4 varieties of1 #eb4 ,burpee's ,improved ,blood ,turnip1 #ed4 ,eclipse1 #eb1 #ahg4 ,edmand's ,early ,turnip1 #eb4 ,long ,blood ,red1 #ahg4 ,blackberries1 #afa4 ,gregg ,black ,cap1 #afa4 ,wilson1 ,jr41 #afa4 ,wilson's ,early1 #afa4 ,borecole1 #aib4 ,cabbages1 #ed4 ,early or ,summer1 #ed1 #aha4 ,early varieties of1 #fa4 ,early ,flat ,dutch1 #aha4 ,early ,jersey ,wakefield1 #fa1 #aha4 ,early ,summer1 #fa4 ,extra ,early ,etampes1 #fa4 ,extra ,early ,express1 #fa4 ,fottler's ,brunswick1 #aha4 ,vandergaw1 #fa4 ,late or ,winter1 #ee4 ,late varieties of1 #fa4 ,burpee's ,surehead1 #fa1 #ahg4 ,danish ,ball ,head1 #fc4 ,large ,late ,drumhead1 #ahg4 ,late ,flat ,dutch1 #ahg4 ,short-stem ,drumhead1 #fc4 ,cantaloupe1 or ,musk ,melon1 #fi4 varieties of1 #gb4 ,burpee's ,netted ,gem1 #gb4 ,emerald ,gem1 #gb4 ,montreal ,green ,nutmeg1 #gd4 ,carrots1 #fg4 varieties of1 #fg4 ,danvers ,half-long ,orange1 #fg4 ,early ,very ,short ,horn1 or ,golden ,ball1 #fh4 ,ox ,heart1 #fh4 ,red ,saint ,vallery1 #fi4 ,short ,horn1 #fg4 ,cauliflower1 #fe1 #aha4 varieties of1 #ff4 ,burpee's ,best ,early1 #fg4 ,early ,snowball1 #ff1 #ahb4 ,extra ,early ,dwarf ,erfurt1 #ff1 #ahb4 ,celery1 #gd1 #ahi4 varieties of1 #hj4 ,boston ,market1 #aij4 ,crawford's ,half ,dwarf1 #aij4 ,crimson or ,red ,celery1 #hb4 ,dwarf ,golden ,heart1 #ha4 ,golden ,self-blanching1 #ha4 ,celery1 ,white ,plume1 #hb4 ,chicore1 #aia4 ,chives1 #age4 ,cold frames and hotbeds1 #ba4 ,compost1 #aff4 ,corn ,salad1 #aib4 ,corn1 ,sweet1 #hc1 #ahb4 varieties of1 #he4 ,amber ,cream1 #hf4 ,crosby's ,early ,twelve-rowed1 #hf4 ,potter's ,excelsior1 #hf4 ,stowell's ,evergreen1 #hf1 #ahb4 ,the ,cory1 #he4 ,cucumbers1 #hg4 varieties of1 #hi4 ,burpee's ,giant ,pera1 #hi4 ,early ,green ,prolific1 #hi1 #ahg4 ,early ,russian1 #hi4 ,improved ,early ,white ,spine1 #hi1 #ahg4 ,london ,long ,green1 #hi1 #ahg4 ,currants1 #aei4 ,dewberry1 ,lucretia1 #afa4 ,diagram of the garden1 #ae1 #af1 #agb4 ,key to the1 #ag4 ,dwarf or ,bush ,beans1 #ahj4 ,early or ,summer ,cabbages1 #ed4 ,egg ,plant1 #ia1 #ahc4 varieties of1 #id4 ,black ,pekin1 #ahd4 ,extra ,early ,dwarf ,round ,purple1 #id4 ,new ,york ,improved ,large ,purple1 #id1 #ahd4 ,endive1 #aia4 ,batavian1 #aia4 ,green ,curled1 #aia4 ,garden1 diagram of the1 #ae1 #af4 laying out the1 #ab4 planting the1 #ce4 situation of the1 #i4 soil of the1 #aa4 ,globe ,artichoke1 #age4 ,gooseberries1 #aei4 ,grapes1 #afc4 ,gumbo1 #ahh4 ,hammond's ,slug ,shot1 #ia4 ,hops1 #ie4 ,horse ,radish1 #id1 #agd4 ,hotbeds and cold frames1 #ba4 ,jerusalem ,artichoke1 #age4 ,kale1 or ,borecole1 #aib4 ,dwarf ,german ,greens1 #aib4 ,key to diagram1 #ag4 ,kohl ,rabi1 #aha1 #ahi4 ,early ,white ,vienna1 #aha4 ,late or ,winter ,cabbages1 #ee4 ,laying out the garden1 #ab4 ,leeks1 #ahh1 #ahi4 ,lettuce1 #if1 #agh1 #aic4 varieties of1 #ajj4 ,burpee's ,golden ,heart1 #agi4 ,burpee's ,hard-,head1 #ajj4 ,burpee's ,silver ,ball1 #aja4 ,burpee's ,tomhannock1 #ajj4 ,cos1 #agi4 ,hammersmith1 #aic4 ,new ,york1 #agi4 ,perpetual1 #agi4 ,philadelphia ,white ,cabbage1 #ajb4 ,stonehead ,golden ,yellow1 #aja4 ,the ,deacon1 #ajb4 ,the ,hanson1 #ajb1 #agi4 ,the ,tennis ,ball1 #ajb4 ,lucretia ,dewberry1 #afa4 ,manure1 #afg4 ,musk ,melon1 #fi4 ,okra1 #ajb1 #ahi4 ,onions1 #ajc1 #ahj4 varieties of1 #ajh4 ,large ,red ,wethersfield1 #aji1 #aha4 ,white ,globe1 #aji4 ,white ,silverskin1 or ,white ,portugal1 #aji4 ,yellow ,globe ,danvers1 #ajh1 #aha4 ,italian varieties of1 #aaj1 #aha4 ,burpee's ,mammoth ,silver ,king1 #aab4 ,earliest ,white ,green1 #aaa4 ,giant ,red ,rocca1 #aaj4 ,giant ,yellow ,rocca1 #aaa4 ,parsley1 #aab1 #agf4 ,extra ,curled ,dwarf1 #aac4 ,parsnips1 #aac1 #agh4 ,parsnips1 varieties of1 #aae4 ,improved ,guernsey1 #aae4 ,peas1 #aae1 #agi4 varieties of1 #aag4 ,american ,wonder1 #aah1 #ahj4 ,burpee's ,extra ,early1 #aag4 ,burpee's ,quality1 #abj4 ,burpee's ,quantity1 #abj4 ,champion of ,england1 #abj4 ,extra ,early ,premium ,gem1 #aah4 ,laxton's ,earliest of ,all1 #aah4 ,laxton's ,evolution1 #aai4 ,philadelphia ,extra ,early1 #ahj4 ,pride of the ,market1 #aah4 ,telephone1 #ahj4 ,the ,stratagem1 #aai4 ,peppers1 #aba1 #ahh4 varieties of1 #abb4 ,bull ,nose and ,golden ,dawn1 #abc1 #ahi4 ,burpee's ,golden ,upright1 #abc4 ,burpee's ,ruby ,king1 #abb1 #ahi4 ,celestial ,pepper1 #abd4 ,long ,narrow ,cayenne1 #abd4 ,procopp's ,giant1 #abd4 ,red ,cluster1 #abc4 ,spanish ,monstrous1 #abd4 ,pie ,plant1 #agd4 ,planting the garden1 #ce4 ,pole ,beans1 #ahe4 ,potatoes1 #acc1 #ahc4 ,early ,ohio1 #ahc4 ,sweet1 #ace1 #ahh4 ,procuring the seeds and plants1 #ae4 ,pumpkins1 #abe4 varieties of1 #abf4 ,golden ,marrow1 #abf4 ,quaker ,pie1 #abf4 ,saint ,george or ,old ,negro1 #abf4 ,small ,sugar1 #abf4 ,radishes1 #abf1 #agh1 #aia4 varieties of1 #abh4 ,burpee's ,earliest1 #abh4 ,california ,mammoth ,white ,winter1 #abh1 #aib4 ,chinese ,rose ,winter1 #abh1 #aib4 ,earliest ,carmine1 ,olive-shaped1 #acj4 ,early ,long ,scarlet ,short ,top4 #abi4 ,early ,oval ,dark ,red1 #acj4 ,early ,round ,dark ,red1 #acj4 ,early ,white ,turnip1 #acj4 ,french ,breakfast1 #acj1 #agi4 ,half ,long ,scarlet1 #acj4 ,round ,black ,spanish ,winter1 #abh1 #aib4 ,white-tipped ,turnip1 #acj4 ,wood's ,early ,frame1 #acj4 ,summer varieties of1 #aca4 ,burpee's ,surprise1 #acb4 ,chartiers or ,shepherd1 #acb1 #agi4 ,giant ,white ,stuttgart1 #aca1 #agi1 #aib4 ,golden ,globe1 #aca1 #agi4 ,long ,white ,globe1 #acb4 ,long ,white ,vienna1 #aca4 ,white ,strasburg1 #acb4 ,winter varieties of1 #acb4 ,california ,mammoth ,white1 #acb1 #aib4 ,chinese ,rose1 #acc4 ,white ,spanish1 #aib4 ,raspberries1 ,black ,cap and ,red1 #afa4 ,philadelphia and ,cuthbert1 #afa4 ,rhubarb1 #aei1 #agd4 ,sage1 #acf1 #agf4 ,salad1 ,corn1 #aic4 ,salsify1 #agh4 ,saving seeds1 #afg4 ,seeds and plants1 procuring the1 #ae4 ,situation of the garden1 #i4 ,slug ,shot1 ,hammond's1 #ia4 ,small ,lima1 or ,sieva ,bean1 #ahf4 ,soil of the garden1 #aa4 ,spinach1 #acf1 #agh1 #aic4 varieties of1 #acg4 ,new ,long ,standing1 #ach4 ,new ,thick-leaved ,round1 #acg1 #aic4 ,norfolk ,savoy-leaved1 #acg4 ,prickly ,winter1 #aic4 ,squashes1 #ach4 ,summer varieties of1 #adj4 ,brazil ,sugar1 #ahg4 ,early ,white ,bush1 or ,patty-,pan1 #adj4 ,golden ,summer ,crookneck1 #adj4 ,white ,pineapple1 or ,white ,turban1 #adj1 #ahg4 ,winter varieties of1 #ada4 ,essex ,hybrid1 #ada1 #ahg4 ,hubbard1 #adb1 #ahg4 ,strawberries1 #afd4 ,summer ,cabbages1 #ed4 ,sweet ,corn1 #hc1 #ahb4 ,sweet ,herbs1 #agf4 ,anise1 #agf4 ,caraway1 #agf4 ,coriander1 #agf4 ,dill1 #agf4 ,sage1 #agf4 ,summer ,savory1 #agf4 ,sweet ,basil1 #agf4 ,sweet ,fennel1 #agf4 ,sweet ,marjoram1 #agf4 ,thyme1 #agf4 ,sweet ,potato1 #ace1 #ahh4 ,tomatoes1 #adb1 #ahc4 varieties of1 #adf4 ,burpee's ,cardinal1 #adf4 ,burpee's ,climax1 #adh4 ,essex ,early ,hybrid1 #adh4 ,extra ,early ,advance1 #adf4 ,golden ,queen1 #adi4 ,livingston's ,perfection1 #ahd4 ,mikado1 #ahd1 #ahe4 ,pear-shaped ,yellow1 #aea4 ,red ,cherry1 #aeg4 ,turner ,hybrid1 #adi1 #ahe4 ,victoria1 #aea4 ,white ,apple1 #aea4 ,tools1 #bi4 ,cultivator1 #ca4 ,fire-fly hand plow1 #cc4 ,hand hoes1 #ce4 ,harrow1 #cj4 ,plow1 #bi4 ,roller1 #ca4 ,seed drill1 #cd4 ,shovels1 #ce4 ,spades1 #ce4 ,steel rakes1 #ce4 ,trowels1 #ce4 ,wheel hoe1 #cb4 ,turnips1 #aea1 #aia4 varieties of1 #aec4 ,early ,red1 or ,purple ,top ,strap-leaved1 #aec1 #aib4 ,early ,white ,flat ,dutch1 #aec4 ,extra ,early ,purple ,top ,milan1 #aed4 ,white ,egg1 #aed4 ,vetticost1 #aib4 ,watermelons1 #aed4 varieties of1 #aef4 ,burpee's ,mammoth ,ironclad1 #aef4 ,cuban ,queen1 #aeh4 ,hungarian ,honey1 #aef4 ,ice ,cream1 #aei4 ,icing1 or ,ice ,rind1 #aeg4 ,jordan's ,gray ,monarch1 #aei4 ,kolb's ,gem1 #aeh4 ,phinney's ,early1 #aei4 ,winter ,cabbages1 #ee4 ,,burpee',s 8,,how ,,to ,,grow0 99 99 99 99 99 ,,prize ,,essays4 ,how to ,grow ,melons for ,market4 ,illustrated4 ,price #cj ,cents1 postpaid1 by mail4 ,our cash prizes for best essays on this subject were won by ,mr4 ,j4 ,e4 ,rue1 ,jr41 of ,littleton1 ,n4 ,c42 ,mr4 ,j4 ,t4 ,rosa1 of ,waverly ,mills1 ,s4 ,c1 and special prize for merit by ,wm4 ,bailey1 ,esq41 of ,zanesville1 ,ohio4 ,in order to present the subject to our readers in the most comprehensive and concise manner1 we have compiled from these essays and our own experience a treatise that we think will be of value to every melon grower4 ,it treats of both ,musk ,melons and ,watermelons1 with full information on the selection of soil1 use and application of manures1 selection of suitable and profitable varieties1 planting the seed1 destruction of insects1 copious notes on cultivation of the crop1 how to grow extra large melons1 how and when to gather for market1 and how to preserve for late use4 ,may be had of the ,publishers of the ,leading ,agricultural ,papers1 or will be sent1 postpaid by mail1 upon receipt of price1 by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,nos4 #dge and #dgg ,north ,fifth ,street1 ,nos4 #dgf and #dgh ,york ,avenue1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,how ,,to ,,grow ,,onions1 ,,with ,,notes ,,on ,,varieties4 ,an exhaustive treatise1 giving in full the prize essay1 with the above title1 by ,mr4 ,t4 ,greiner1 of ,monmouth ,county1 ,n4 ,j41 also ,onion ,growing by ,irrigation1 by ,col4 ,c4 ,h4 ,arlie1 of ,lake ,view1 ,oregon--carefully edited1 with additional notes1 including an article on the ,growing of ,sets1 by ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee4 ,besides other matter1 it gives complete instructions on all the following subjects3-- ,kinds of ,soil--,preparation of the ,soil--,manures3 ,how1 ,when and ,what ,kinds to ,apply--,seed--,sowing the ,seed--,rolling--,cultivation--,hand ,weeding--,the ,most ,useful ,implements--,thinning--,injurious ,insects--,harvesting the ,crop--,how to ,market--,storing for ,winter--,american ,varieties of ,onions--,italian ,varieties--,how to ,grow1 ,handle and ,store ,onion ,sets--,onion ,growing by ,irrigation--,general ,remarks4 ,each subject connected with growing ,onions is treated in a plain and practical manner1 so that ,farmers who have never before raised ,onions for market can succeed1 while even experienced growers may find facts of interest4 ,,illustrated4 ,,price1 #cj ,,cents4 ,sent by mail1 postpaid1 to any address1 upon receipt of price4 ,address ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,seed ,growers1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,how ,,to ,,grow ,cabbages and ,cauliflowers ,,most ,,profitably4 ,illustrated4 ,price #cj cents1 postpaid1 by mail4 ,it is not too much to say that this book gives the most complete information on the successful growing of these important crops that has ever been published4 ,the prize essays1 carefully edited1 are published in full1 and are written by growers of long experience--,capt4 ,g4 ,h4 ,,howard1 of ,suffolk ,county1 ,l4 ,i41 well known as one of the most successful and largest growers of ,cauliflower and ,cabbage in ,america1 and by ,mr4 ,j4 ,,pedersen 7,,bjergaard71 of ,denmark1 a well-known writer and grower4 ,to these is added an appendix that will interest our lady friends1 giving1 as it does1 the recipes for cooking these vegetables1 furnished for this book by ,mr4 ,s4 ,j4 ,,soyer1 ,chief ,cook to ,his ,majesty1 the ,king of ,denmark4 ,the book treats fully on3-- ,how to succeed with ,,cabbages--,the ,best ,soils--,the ,cabbage a ,greedy ,feeder--,manures--,planting and ,cultivation--,insects--,early ,cabbages--,late ,cabbages--,cutting and ,marketing4 ,,cauliflower--,selection of ,land--,making ,seed ,bed and ,sowing ,seed--,cultivation--,the ,earliest ,forcing of ,cauliflowers--,cauliflowers in the ,open ,ground--,for the ,family ,garden--,enemies of the ,cauliflower--,varieties--,tying and ,bleaching--,cutting--,trimming--,packin g for ,market--,how to ,keep for ,winter ,use--,numerous ,recipes for ,cooking ,cabbage and ,cauliflower4 ,few1 if any1 crops that can be grown on the farm yield larger returns than ,cabbage and ,cauliflower1 and with this 8,how to ,grow0 ,treatise success is reasonably assured4 ,to be had of ,houses handling ,agricultural ,books1 or will be sent1 postpaid1 by mail1 upon receipt of price by the ,publishers1 ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa41 ,,and ,,london1 ,,england4 ,,root ,,crops ,,for ,,stock ,,feeding1 ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,grow ,,them4 ,illustrated4 ,price #cj ,cents1 by mail1 postpaid4 ,this treatise has been carefully compiled from the prize essays1 with copious additions from our own experience in growing these crops4 ,it treats fully not only on ,,how ,,to ,,grow1 but also ,,how ,,to ,,store and ,,how ,,to ,,feed1 with notes on the relative value for stock feeding of the different varieties of ,beets1 ,mangels1 ,carrots1 ,parsnips1 ,turnips and ,ruta ,bagas4 ,in these days of low prices for cereals and high valuation of land1 ,,root ,,crops ,,for ,,stock ,,feeding is a subject of the greatest importance to every progressive farmer desirous of making ,,the ,,farm ,,pay ,a ,,profit4 ,sent by mail1 postpaid1 upon receipt of price4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,burpee',s ,,farm ,,annual4 ,a handsomely illustrated catalogue of the ,best ,garden1 ,farm and ,flower ,,seeds1 ,bulbs and ,plants is published by ,january #ast of each year and mailed gratis to all intending purchasers of seeds4 ,address ,w4 ,,atlee ,,burpee ,,co41 ,,seed ,,growers1 ,,philadelphia1 ,,pa4 ,,footnotes3 #a ,miss ,moll says that this rusting can be prevented by only hoeing the beans when the soil is dry4 ,we would also particularly recommend ,burpee's ,perfection ,wax1 a fine new variety1 that has so far proved free from rust4--,,ed4 #b ,see the method of covering the seed of ,lima beans described by ,miss ,l4 ,m4 ,moll1 and our note on the same4--,,ed4 #c ,we would also particularly recommend ,burpee's ,white ,zulu1 a new variety of #ahhh4 ,it is one of the earliest of pole beans1 immensely productive1 and the broad1 handsome1 white pods1 eight to ten inches long1 are of the choicest quality4--,,ed4 #d ,the ,extra ,early ,express1 a new variety1 just introduced from ,france1 and seed of which we distributed for trial this year1 has proved eight to ten days earlier than the ,etampes4 ,the heads do not average quite as large as the ,etampes1 but are of equally as good quality and of the shape shown in the illustration on page #fj4--;,,ed4 #e ,for years1 ,mr4 ,vandergaw1 a large cabbage grower of ,long ,island1 has had a second-early cabbage fully as early as ,early ,summer and with much larger heads4 ,this is known as the ,vandergaw ,cabbage1 and is only now being generally introduced4 ,the heads are very large and solid1 of the shape shown in the illustration on page #fd2 it is a good keeper1 and altogether a good variety1 also1 for winter use4--,,ed4 #f ,other distinct and good varieties of ,american onions are ,southport ,yellow ,globe and ,large ,red ,globe1 ,yellow ,strasburg or ,dutch1 and the ,extra ,early ,red4 ,for more complete information1 invaluable to all who propose growing onions on a large scale for market1 see the new book1 8,,how ,,to ,,grow ,,onions1 ,,with ,,notes ,,on ,,varieties10 an exhaustive treatise written by ,t4 ,greiner1 of ,new ,jersey1 ,col4 ,a4 ,h4 ,arlie1 of ,oregon1 and ,w4 ,atlee ,burpee4--,,ed4 #g ,equally as early is ,laxton's ,earliest of ,all1 which is a blue-seeded variety1 of very fine quality and handsome appearance4--,,ed4 #h ,the ,stratagem is also a remarkably fine pea1 of the same type as ,pride of the ,market1 except that the large1 handsome peas are wrinkled4--,,ed4 #i ,mr4 ,darlington's remarks on the varieties of peas would be incomplete without reference to two remarkable new peas1 obtained by crosses made some years since1 but only now 7#ahhh7 being introduced4 ,these peas have been called ,burpee's ,quantity 7which is illustrated above71 and ,burpee's ,quality1--the former because it is the most productive of all1 as many as ninety pods having been counted upon a single vine--the latter1 because1 while also very productive1 it excels other varieties in its peculiarly rich1 sugary flavor4 ,both varieties grow two and a half feet high1 but will well repay brushing1 and both are main-crop peas1--,burpee's ,quantity being ready for the table in about two months1 and ,burpee's ,quality in seven weeks from planting4 ,probably no one in ,america is better posted as to the relative value in the garden of the different peas than ,,mr4 ,,william ,,falconer1 ,glen ,cove1 ,n4 ,y41 the well-known writer on garden topics4 ,a few peas of ,burpee's ,quantity 7then known as ,no4 #ge7 were sent to ,mr4 ,falconer for trial4 ,on ,oct4 #bhth1 #ahhg1 he writes1 8,the pea1 ,no4 #ge1 ,i had from you this year has given me much satisfaction2 indeed1 so well pleased am ,i with it that ,i wish to grow it next year as a main crop4 ,season medium to late1 grows two and a half feet1 and in the way of ,abundance2 peas large1 closely packed together in tight pods1 and1 when cooked1 of capital quality4 ,without any exception1 the heaviest cropper among all my peas this year40--,,ed4 #aj ,a very distinct and novel variety has just been introduced from ,china1 under the name of ,celestial ,pepper4 ,the small1 nearly heart-shaped fruits are produced in great abundance1 growing upright1 and are of a beautiful creamy yellow color until fully ripe1 when they turn coral red3 the plant is handsome enough for the flower garden4 ,among the largest of the sweet1 mild red peppers are ,spanish ,monstrous and ,procopp's ,giant1 while among the hottest of all peppers is the ,long ,narrow ,cayenne4--,,ed4 #aa ,while both of the varieties named are excellent for pumpkin pies1 a new variety from ,washington ,county1 ,new ,york1 is of superlatively fine quality4 ,it is known as ,the ,quaker ,pie ,pumpkin1 as it had been kept for many years in a family of 8,quakers10 or ,friends1 whose pumpkin pies became famous throughout the neighborhood4 ,the ,saint ,george or ,old ,negro pumpkin of ,new ,england is also a great favorite1 from the choice quality of its fine-grained flesh4--,,ed4 #ab ,we must differ with ,mr4 ,darlington as to the usefulness of the winter radishes4 ,their fresh1 pungent taste is very refreshing in winter1 when there is such a scarcity of vegetables4 ,the most popular varieties are the ,california ,mammoth ,white ,winter1 ,chinese ,rose ,winter and the ,round ,black ,spanish ,winter ,radish4--,,ed4 #ac ,for forcing1 ,wood's ,early ,frame is preferred to the ,long ,scarlet2 it is of same shape1 but not so long1 and has less foliage4 ,other good early radishes besides those named are ,early ,round ,dark ,red1 ,half ,long ,scarlet1 ,early ,oval ,dark ,red1 ,early ,white ,turnip1 ,french ,breakfast and the ,white ,tipped ,turnip ,radishes4 ,a variety of these handsome little radishes on the table is both attractive and appetizing4--,,ed4 #ad ,in addition to the varieties named1 the ,white ,strasburg1 ,burpee's ,surprise and ,chartiers or ,shepherd radishes are particularly valuable for summer use4 ,the latter is very handsome1 of large shape1 clear rose color1 shading off into pure white2 it is also remarkable from the fact that it retains its fine quality1 even when grown to an extraordinary size4--,,ed4 #ae ,mr4 ,darlington has only named some of the best of the large varieties of tomatoes4 ,the very small tomatoes1 such as ,victoria1 ,red ,cherry1 ,pear-shaped ,yellow and ,white ,apple1 will be found useful and ornamental for preserving4--,,ed4 #af ,in addition to the varieties named1 we would recommend ,phinney's ,early1 as probably the best early melon of good size2 also the ,ice ,cream and ,jordan's ,gray ,monarch1 as very choice melons of oblong shape4--,,ed4 #ag ,while1 as stated1 a well-drained soil is most desirable for the garden1 and its value is not to be underrated1 yet success in gardening can be had on almost any soil4 ,the more unfavorable the circumstances1 the greater credit is due the gardener1 and many cannot afford expensive underdraining4--,,ed4 #ah ,the suggestion as to applying manure in the spring is good1 as far as the well-drained land is concerned2 where the land is not well-drained1 however1 more of the good properties of the manure are retained by applying the coarse manure in the fall1 as it then fills the soil with decomposing vegetable matter4--,,ed4 #ai ,the parsley seed will germinate quickly if soaked in tepid water for twenty-four hours before planting4 ,we must also take exception to the statement that the plain-leaved sorts are superior to the curled varieties for seasoning purposes4--,,ed4 #bj ,the reason here presented for not growing late cabbage1 because the worms might damage some of them1 is quite original1 and about equal to not planting any potatoes1 because the bugs might eat the tops4 ,we can hardly conceive of a garden1 however small1 without late cabbage4 ,for the prevention of the ravages of this pest we would suggest the use of alum water1 as being sure1 easily applied and entirely harmless to the user4--,,ed4 #ba ,it is the extreme richness of the soil1 which is claimed by ,miss ,moll to be requisite to the growth of the ,tomato1 that1 in her case1 renders the use of the trellis and pruning necessary1 as it induces too rank a growth of vine1 covering the ground so that the sun and air cannot penetrate unless the vines are tied up4 ,we can hardly see any degradation in allowing the plant liberty to grow in the manner intended by nature4 ,more than this1 as seedsmen1 we pride ourselves on the new and improved varieties of ,tomatoes that we have introduced1 and the finest we have ever grown--finest alike for size1 color1 quality and productiveness--have been grown on poor clay soil1 that looked fairly yellow when at all dry1 and we have never been able to equal them on either rich heavy loam1 or on light soils4 ,we would not undervalue the tying up of a few plants for early use1 but claim that it is unnecessary for the general crop4--,,ed4 #bb ,as stated1 these ,tomatoes were undoubtedly originated from the same stock4 ,we received the ,turner ,hybrid in the spring of #ahhd1 a small packet of seed being sent us by one of our customers--,mr4 ,j4 ,w4 ,turner1 of ,iowa4 ,this seed we had planted1 and were surprised at the wonderful growth1 size and quality of the variety1 but unfortunately there were two distinct colors3 some were a rich deep red and some a pale pink1 of a not very attractive shade4 ,so we grew it carefully for another season before sending out1 that we might have them all of the best color4 ,this1 we believe1 is not the case with the ,mikado1 as in our trial the two colors were present1 although they both are evidently of the same origin4--,,ed4 #bc ,this idea of a mulch of light material to cover the freshly planted beans in a wet season is a very good one2 but we would think that saving and applying ,coffee ,grounds for a bean patch of the size it should be in a garden of one acre1 would be a good deal like 8emptying a hogshead of water with a teaspoon40 ,we would suggest the use of sand1 sifted coal ashes1 chaff or buckwheat hulls1 as answering the purpose equally well1 and as being much more readily obtained4--,,ed4 #bd ,we think that the melons1 cucumbers1 etc41 get a better start 7and we would include the pole beans7 when the hill for seed is raised slightly above the surface1 as it greatly lessens the danger of the young seedlings 8damping off10 and instead of the watering1 which is here claimed to be necessary1 we would suggest a thorough loosening of the soil around the roots4--,,ed4 #be ,leek is both wholesome and palatable4 ,we heartily endorse the words of recommendation1 and trust that many readers will include it in their gardens4 ,kohl ,rabi is another vegetable but little known in ,america1 and which ,miss ,moll is also fully warranted in recommending4--,,ed4 #bf ,the plan here described involves much unnecessary labor4 ,it takes considerable time to dig the trenches1 and1 unless the soil of the garden were unusually deep1 this depth of trench1 fourteen inches1 would bring up and mix with the surface a great deal of very poor subsoil4 ,as rich soil cannot be found at this depth1 a liberal supply of manure must be put down1 for the roots to feed upon1 where it will not be available for any future crop1 unless the trenches were located in exactly the same spot each year4 ,the increase in the labor of digging for storage would be considerable over the plan of surface culture as recommended in ,mr4 ,darlington's treatise4 ,miss ,moll gives as a reason the greater heat in her locality1 to overcome which we would suggest planting between rows of tall-growing sweet corn1 and also recommend the use of some of the self-blanching varieties of celery4--,,ed4 #bg ,endive1 commonly known in restaurants as ,chicore1 is one of the most attractive and refreshing of salads4 ,it is particularly appetizing when served mixed with lettuce1 with plain ,french dressing4--,,ed4 #bh ,this is also sown at the same time as late cabbage1 and grown in the same manner1 being used as a fall and winter supply of greens1 and we think is most palatable in this way4--,,ed4 #bi ,in this locality 7,philadelphia71 parsnips and salsify will start into growth1 and become worthless for the table if left in the ground after it has become possible to work it in the spring4 ,for a late supply1 the roots should be dug and stored in a very cool cellar4 ,this method does not interfere with the garden being all thoroughly plowed in the spring4--,,ed4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 #a4 ,obvious printers'1 punctuation and spelling errors have been corrected silently4 #b4 ,some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have been retained as in the original4 #c4 ,superscripts are represented using the caret character1 e4g4 ,dr4 or ,xxx4 #d4 ,italics are shown as xxx4 #e4 ,bold print is shown as xxx4