,transcriber's ,notes ,text printed in italics in the source document have been transcribed between underscores2 small capitals have been replaced with ,,all ,,capitals4 ,the language used is that of the source document2 inconsistencies have not been addressed4 ,table of ,contents3 the chapter title for chapter ,,vi does not agree with the headings 7,suggestions and ,receipts7 in the text4 ,,the ,,chocolate-,,plant 7,,theobroma ,,cacao7 ,,and ,,its ,,products4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,fruiting-,,stem ,,of ,a ,,chocolate-,,plant1 ,,the ,,flowers1 ,,young ,,fruit1 ,,and ,,ripened ,,pod ,,all ,,springing ,,from ,,the ,,older ,,wood4 ,,dorchester1 ,,mass43 ,,walter ,,baker ,,and ,,company4 #ahia4 ,copyright1 #ahij1 ,,by ,,walter ,,baker ,,and ,,company4 ,university ,press3 ,,john ,,wilson ,,and ,,son1 ,,cambridge4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,,page ,,introductory #e ,i4 ,,outline ,,of ,,the ,,early ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate ,,plant4 -- ,,its ,,primitive ,,cultivation4 -- ,,early ,,methods ,,of ,,utilizing ,,the ,,seeds4 -- ,,introduction ,,of ,,the ,,beverage ,,into ,,europe #g ,,ii4 ,,the ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate ,,plant4 -- ,,the ,,present ,,range ,,of ,,the ,,plant ,,under ,,modern ,,methods ,,of ,,cultivation4 -- ,,commercial ,,relations #af ,,iii4 ,,the ,,seeds ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate ,,plant1 ,,as ,,they ,,appear ,,in ,,commerce4 -- ,,their ,,microscopic ,,and ,,chemical ,,character #bc ,,iv4 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,chocolate1 ,,and ,,breakfast ,,cocoa #bf ,v4 ,,some ,,physiological ,,aspects ,,of ,,chocolate ,,seeds4 -- ,,value ,,of ,,chocolate ,,as ,,an ,,article ,,of ,,food4 -- ,,applications ,,of ,,cocoa-,,butter #cb ,,vi4 ,a ,,few ,,culinary ,,relations ,,of ,,chocolate ,,and ,,breakfast ,,cocoa1 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,ellen ,h4 ,,richards ,,and ,,miss ,,parloa #ce ,,introductory4 ,four years ago1 a convenient handbook on the production and use of various preparations of the chocolate plant was published by our firm4 ,the present work is designed to give1 with considerably more detail1 some of the interesting facts relative to the early history and cultivation of the chocolate tree1 as well as a fuller account of its botany and the chemistry of its products4 ,since this brochure will doubtless fall into the hands of some who do not have access to the earlier work1 we have used with freedom some of the material employed in that2 but we hope that these necessary repetitions will increase instead of impair the value of the pages now before the reader4 ,we trust that this second treatise may be acceptable to our many friends who gave so warm a welcome to the first4 ,,walter ,,baker ,,and ,,company4 ,,dorchester1 ,,massachusetts1 #ahia4 ,,the ,,chocolate-,,plant4 ,i4 ,,outline ,,of ,,the ,,early ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate-,,plant4 ,at the discovery of ,america1 the natives of the narrower portion of the continent bordering on the ,caribbean ,sea1 were found in possession of two luxuries which have been everywhere recognized as worthy of extensive cultivation2 namely1 tobacco and chocolate4 ,the former of these has made its way into climates totally unlike that of its early home2 the other of these plants1 since it cannot bear the low temperature occasionally experienced in our subtropics1 is more restricted in its range4 ,the chocolate-plant is confined to the warmer regions of the globe1 where it finds the congenial climatic conditions which it enjoyed and still enjoys in its earliest home in ,america4 ,the first references to the chocolate-plant and its products are found in the accounts of the explorers and conquerors who followed ,columbus4 ,these first descriptions of this singular tree1 of its fruits and seeds1 of its uses and the methods of cultivation1 are remarkably accurate in all essential particulars4 ,illustration ,one of the earliest1 if not indeed the very earliest1 delineations of the chocolate-tree is in a rare volume by ,bontekoe4 ,the engraving1 which is here reproduced with fidelity1 represents the chocolate-tree with its comparatively large fruits or pods borne on the main stem4 ,this might be thought at first to be an error of the artist1 but it is in fact a rude expression of one of the most remarkable peculiarities of the plant4 ,as will be shown presently1 when a fuller description of the plant is given1 the fruits are1 as a rule1 formed on the older parts4 ,another interesting feature is shown in the engraving3#a the chocolate-tree is sheltered by a larger tree of some other kind near it4 ,we shall see shortly1 that this practice of planting a sheltering tree to shade the young chocolate plants for a time1 is still kept up wherever the plant is successfully cultivated4 ,it is certainly interesting that this point in cultivation1 which might easily have been thought to be accidental or local1 was delineated more than three centuries ago4 ,by the natives of tropical ,america1 the seeds of the chocolate-plant1 which will be more particularly described in a later chapter1 were first roasted and then rudely ground4 ,for this purpose they employed the flat or curved surface of the sort of stone used by them to grind their maize1 or ,indian corn4 ,in the engraving1 one of the most simple mills or flat mortars is seen with its roller4 ,the roller was merely a short thick stone of a cylindrical shape1 which could be used with one or both hands somewhat after the manner of the common rolling-pin everywhere used in kitchens4 ,by this simple appliance1 the crushed seeds were mixed with various ingredients1 among which may be mentioned spices of different kinds4 ,a modification of this was later used in ,spain4 ,see page #ae4 #a ,the figure in the left of the foreground is said by ,bontekoe to represent the native method of procuring fire by rapidly twirling a pointed stick in a groove of a piece of wood placed on the ground4 ,illustration3 ,,from ,a ,,photograph ,,of ,a ,,stone ,,mill1 ,,or ,,flat ,,mortar4 ,the drinks made from this coarse chocolate were frequently very complex1 but the chocolate itself was the chief constituent4 ,it was the custom to beat the mixture into a froth or foam1 by means of stirrers1 of mallet-like forms2 in fact1 it is said by some writers that the very name chocolate1 is derived from a native word indicating the noise made by the stirring of the beverage4 ,thus1 ,thomas ,gage1 in his 8,new ,survey of the ,west ,indies10 says 7under date of #afdh71 8,the name chocolatte is an ,indian name1 and is compounded from atte1 as some say1 or as others1 atle1 which in the ,mexican language signifieth water1 and from the sound which the water 7wherein is put the chocolatte7 makes1 as choco1 choco1 choco1 when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument called a #8molinet1' or #8molinillo1' until it bubble and rise unto a froath40 ,illustration3 ,,some ,,of ,,the ,,forms ,,of ,,chocolate ,,stirrers 78,,molinets074 ,from a treatise published in the ,seventeenth ,century4 ,the same writer gives us an interesting account of the native method of preparing the drink4 ,from the extract1 which is copied without change of the quaint spelling1 it will be seen how wide the use of chocolate was in ,europe towards the middle of the seventeenth century3-- 8,now1 for the making or compounding of this drink1 ,i shall set down here the method4 ,the cacao and the other ingredients must be beaten in a morter of stone1 or 7as the ,indians use7 ground upon a broad stone1 which they call ,metate1 and is only made for that use4 ,but first the ingredients are all to be dried1 except the ,achiotte1 with care that they be beaten to powder1 keeping them still in stirring that they be not burnt1 or become black2 for if they be overdried1 they will be bitter and lose their virtue4 ,the cinnamon and the long red pepper are to be first beaten with the anniseed1 and then the cacao1 which must be beaten by little and little till it be all powdered1 and in the beating it must be turned round that it may mix the better4 ,every one of these ingredients must be beaten by itself1 and then all be put into the vessel where the cacao is1 which you must stir together with a spoon1 and then take out that paste1 and put it into the morter1 under which there must be a little fire1 after the confection is made2 but if more fire be put under than will only warm it1 then the unctuous part will dry away4 ,the ,achiotte also must be put in in the beating1 that it may the better take the colour4 ,all the ingredients must be searced1 save only the cacao1 and if from the cacao the dry shell be taken1 it will be the better4 ,when it is well beaten and incorporated 7which will be known by the shortnesse of it71 then with a spoon 7so in the ,indias is used7 is taken up some of the paste1 which will be almost liquid1 and made into tablets1 or else without a spoon put into boxes1 and when it is cold it will be hard4 8,those that make it into tablets put a spoonful of the paste upon a piece of paper 7the ,indians put it upon the leaf of a plaintin tree71 where1 being put into the shade 7for in the sun it melts and dissolves71 it grows hard2 and then bowing the paper or leaf1 the tablet fals off by reason of the fatnesse of the paste4 ,but if it be put into anything of earth or wood1 it stickes fast1 and will not come off but with scraping or breaking4 ,the manner of drinking it is diverse2 the one 7being the way most used in ,mexico7 is to take it hot with ,atolle1 dissolving a tablet in hot water1 and stirring and beating it in the cup1 when it is to be drunk1 with a ,molinet1 and when it is well stirred to a scumme1 or froth1 then to fill the cup with hot ,atolle1 and so drink it sup by sup4 ,another way is that the chocolate1 being dissolved with cold water and stirred with the ,molinet1 and the scumme being taken off and put into another vessel1 the remainder be set upon the fire1 with as much sugar as will sweeten it1 and when it is warme1 then to powre it upon the scumme which was taken off before1 and so to drink it4 ,but the most ordinary way is to warme the water very hot1 and then to powre out half the cup full that you mean to drink2 and to put into it a tablet or two1 or as much as will thicken reasonably the water1 and then grinde it well with the ,molinet1 and when it is well ground and risen to a scumme1 to fill the cup with hot water1 and so drink it by sups 7having sweetened it with sugar71 and to eat it with a little conserve or maple bred1 steeped into the chocolatte4 8,besides these ways there is another way 7which is much used in the ,island of ,santo ,domingo71 which is to put the chocolatte into a pipkin with a little water1 and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved1 and then to put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the chocolatte1 and then to boyle it again untill there comes an oily scumme upon it1 and then to drink it4 8,there is another way yet to drink chocolatte1 which is cold1 which the ,indians use at feasts to refresh themselves1 and it is made after this manner3 ,the chocolatte 7which is made with none1 or very few1 ingredients7 being dissolved in cold water with the ,molinet1 they take off the scumme or crassy part1 which riseth in great quantity1 especially when the cacao is older and more putrefied4 ,the scumme they lay aside in a little dish by itself1 and then put sugar into that part from whence was taken the scumme1 and then powre it from on high into the scumme1 and so drink it cold4 ,and this drink is so cold that it agreeth not with all men's stomachs2 for by experience it hath been found that it doth hurt by causing pains in the stomach1 especially to women4 8,the third way of taking it is the most used1 and thus certainly it doth no hurt1 neither know ,i why it may not be used as well in ,england as in other parts1 both hot and cold2 for where it is so much used1 the most1 if not all1 as well in the ,indias as in ,spain1 ,italy1 ,flanders 7which is a cold countrey71 find that it agreeth well with them4 ,true it is1 it is used more in the ,indias than in the ,european parts1 because there the stomachs are more apt to faint than here1 and a cup of chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomach4 ,for myself ,i must say1 ,i used it twelve years constantly1 drinking one cup in the morning1 another yet before dinner between nine or ten of the clock2 another within an hour or two after dinner1 and another between four and five in the afternoon2 and when ,i was purposed to sit up late to study1 ,i would take another cup about seven or eight at night1 which would keep me waking till about midnight4 ,and if by chance ,i did neglect any of these accustomed houres1 ,i presently found my stomach fainty4 ,and with this custome ,i lived twelve years in those parts healthy1 without any obstructions1 or oppilations1 not knowing what either ague or feaver was40 ,after its introduction into ,europe from ,america1 chocolate was used at first only as a luxury1 but it has steadily advanced in popular esteem until it is now recognized as one of the necessaries of life4 ,illustration3 ,,frontispiece ,,of ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,earliest ,,works ,,on ,,chocolate4 ,it would be interesting to speculate as to the accidents which led to the original use of such beverages as coffee1 tea1 and chocolate4 ,the earliest employment of the two former is veiled in as deep a mystery as that which surrounds the chocolate-plant4 ,all were used at the outset by what we have been accustomed to call the uncultivated races of mankind1 but we cannot surmise what first attracted their attention to these plants4 ,one can only say that by the natives of lands where the plants grow naturally1 they have all been used from time immemorial1 and that all three are welcome gifts from a rude state of civilization to the highest which exists to-day4 ,by the savages and the ,aztecs of ,america1 by the roving tribes of ,arabia1 and by the dwellers in the farther ,east1 the virtues of these three plants were recognized long before any one of them was introduced into ,europe4 ,there is reason to believe that long before the discovery of ,america1 ,tea and ,coffee had been vaguely known to travellers in the ,orient1 as curiosities1 much as we to-day regard the ,kola-nut and ,mat1 but neither ,tea nor ,coffee was then employed as a beverage anywhere in ,western ,europe4 ,in fact1 all trustworthy evidence in the case leads us to a surprising conclusion1 namely1 ,that ,chocolate was the first of these beverages to attract the attention of ,europeans4 ,this beverage rapidly made its way throughout ,europe1 beginning from ,spain and ,portugal1 whither its discoverers had brought it4 ,the other beverages1 ,tea and ,coffee1 soon followed1 and after a short time became associated together in popular regard4 ,in a duodecimo work published in #afhe1 and now very rare1 the beverages derived from these three plants are described in a clear and forcible manner4 ,the reproduction of the frontispiece of this book1 given above1 shows how intimate the association of these beverages was regarded even two centuries ago4 ,it is interesting to observe the distinction made by the artist in the receptacles and cups for holding these three different drinks4 ,on the floor1 near the vase1 is seen one of the chocolate-stirrers described on page #aj4 ,at the outset the manufacture of chocolate in ,europe was carried on with substantially the same appliances as those used by the natives4 ,a curious indication of this is afforded by the engraving1 which shows that the ,portuguese mill was to all intents modelled after that used by the ,mexicans4 ,illustration3 ,,chocolate-,,grinding ,,in ,,the ,,seventeenth ,,century4 ,from an early engraving4 ,,ii4 ,,the ,,natural ,,history ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate-,,plant4 ,illustration3 ,,theobroma ,,cacao4 ,the chocolate plant is known to botanists as ,theobroma ,cacao4 ,the first or generic word in this name means food of the gods4 ,the genus contains six species1 only one of which is generally cultivated4 ,it is probable1 however1 that some of the seeds which find their way into commerce are yielded by other and wild species4 ,it is1 moreover1 more than likely that among the numerous varieties of ,theobroma ,cacao now cultivated there may be some hybrids between the different forms4 ,illustration3 ,,flowers1 ,,fruit1 ,,and ,,seeds ,,of ,,theobroma4 ,from an old engraving4 ,the plant belongs to the ,sterculiace1 a natural order containing forty-one genera and five hundred and twenty species4 ,the general habit of the tree is well shown in the engraving4 ,illustration3 ,,flowers1 ,,fruit1 ,,and ,,seeds ,,of ,,theobroma4 ,from a recent drawing4 ,the seeds of the plant are borne in pods1 represented in the illustrations on pages #ag and #ah1 the former taken from one of the early works on the subject4 ,no4 #a in the first engraving exhibits the ripened pod1 #e and #f the fruits in different stages of growth4 ,no4 #b shows the pod cut open and displays some of the seeds1 while #c and #d are the seeds themselves1--the former in its natural state1 the latter with the seed-coats removed4 ,the pod is irregular and angular1 much like some forms of cucumbers1 but more pointed at the lower extremity1 and more distinctly grooved4 ,it measures in length nine inches to a foot1 or even more1 and about half as much in diameter4 ,the color1 when young1 is green1 becoming later dark yellow or yellowish brown4 ,the rind is thick and tough4 ,the pod is filled with closely packed 8beans10 or seeds1 imbedded in a mass of cellular tissue1 sometimes of pleasant subacid taste4 ,the seeds are about as large as ordinary almonds1 whitish when fresh1 and of a disagreeable bitter taste4 ,when dried they become brown4 ,the fruits are about four months in ripening2 but they appear and mature the whole year through4 ,in point of fact1 however1 there are chief harvests1 usually in early spring1 but this is different for different countries4 ,the following extract from a comparatively recent consular report gives a clear idea of the modern method of cultivating the plant in some parts of ,south ,america4 ,the extract was given in our former edition1 but it is thought best to transcribe it here4 8,the tree grows to the average height of thirteen feet1 and from five to eight inches in diameter1 is of spreading habit and healthy growth1 and although requiring much more care and attention than the coffee-tree1 yet its equally reliable crops require comparatively little labor in properly preparing for the market4 8444 ,there are two varieties of the cocoa-tree cultivated in ,venezuela1 known as ,el ,criollo and ,el ,trinitario1 respectively1 the former of which1 though not so prolific1 nor as early fruiting as the latter1 is yet superior to it in size1 color1 sweetness1 and oleaginous properties of the fruit1 and in the fact that it always finds ready sale1 while the latter is often dull or neglected4 ,the difference in price of the two varieties is also marked1 the former being quoted at #bh to #cj per fanega 7#aaj pounds71 while the latter commands approximately half that price4 8,while coffee can be successfully cultivated under a temperature of #fj degrees ,f41 the cocoa-tree1 for proper development and remunerative crops1 requires a temperature of #hj degrees ,f42 hence the area of the cocoa belt is comparatively restricted1 and the cocoa-planter presumably has not to fear the fierce competition that he has encountered in the cultivation of cotton and coffee4 ,besides the condition of temperature above stated1 this crop needs a moist soil and humid atmosphere2 and so the lands along the coast of the ,caribbean sea1 sloping from the mountain-tops to the shore1 bedewed by the exhalations of the sea and irrigated by the numerous rivulets that course down the valleys1 are found to be1 in all respects1 well adapted to the profitable cultivation of cocoa4 ,and while the lands in the interior possessing facilities for irrigation may be said to be equally as good for the purpose1 yet the absence of roads1 and the consequently difficult transportation of produce on the backs of donkeys over rugged mountain paths1 materially reduce the profits on the crop before it reaches the market4 8,a cocoa plantation is set in quite the same manner as an apple-orchard1 except that the young stalks may be transplanted from the nursery after two months' growth4 ,no preparation of the soil is deemed necessary1 and no manures are applied4 ,the young trees are planted about fifteen feet equidistant1 which will accommodate two hundred trees to the acre4 ,between rows1 and at like spaces1 are planted rows of the ,bucare1 a tree of rapid growth1 that serves to shade the soil as well as to shield the young trees from the torrid sun4 ,small permanent trenches must be maintained from tree to tree throughout the entire length of the rows1 so that1 at least once in the week1 the stream1 descending from the mountains1 may be turned into these little channels and bear needful moisture to trees and soil4 ,at the age of five years the plantation begins to bear fruit1 and annually yields two crops1 that ripening in ,june being termed the crop of ,san ,juan1 and that maturing at ,christmas being known as the crop of ,la ,navidad4 ,the average age to which the trees attain1 under proper care1 may be estimated at forty years1 during which period it will give fair to full crops of fruit2 but of course it must be understood that1 as in our fruit orchards1 a new tree must be set from time to time to replace one that may be decayed or blighted4 ,after careful inquiry it may be safely stated that the average crop of the cocoa plantation at ten years of age1 and under a proper state of cultivation1 will amount to five hundred or six hundred pounds per acre40 ,the method of preparing the fruit for shipment is thus described in the 8,encyclopdia ,britannica03-- 8,in gathering1 the workman is careful to cut down only fully ripened pods1 which he adroitly accomplishes with a long pole armed with two prongs1 or a knife at its extremity4 ,the pods are left in a heap on the ground for about twenty-four hours2 they are then cut open and the seeds are taken out and carried in baskets to the place where they undergo the operation of sweating or curing4 ,there the acid juice which accompanies the seeds is first drained off1 after which they are placed in a sweating-box1 in which they are enclosed and allowed to ferment for some time1 great care being taken to keep the temperature from rising too high4 ,the fermenting process is1 in some cases1 affected by throwing the seeds into holes or trenches in the ground1 and covering them with earth or clay4 ,the seeds in this process1 which is called 8claying10 are occasionally stirred to keep the fermentation from proceeding too violently4 ,the sweating is a process which requires the very greatest attention and experience1 as on it1 to a great extent1 depends the flavor of the seeds and their fitness for preservation4 ,the operation varies according to the state of the weather1 but a period of about two days yields the best results4 ,thereafter the seeds are exposed to the sun for drying1 and those of a fine quality should then assume a warm1 reddish tint1 which characterizes beans of a superior quality40 ,cocoa-beans are derived chiefly from the following sources1 here arranged alphabetically4 ,a recent author has classified them under two heads1 unfermented and fermented2 but this classification is very misleading1 since it happens that from a few of the places mentioned variable proportions of both sorts are brought to market4 ,ariba 7,ecuador71 ,bahia 7,brazil71 ,caracas 7,venezuela71 ,cayenne 7,french ,guiana71 ,ceylon1 ,guatemala1 ,haiti1 or ,port au ,prince1 ,java1 ,machala1 or ordinary ,guayaquil 7,ecuador71 ,maracaiba 7,colombia71 ,mararion 7,brazil71 ,st4 ,domingo1 ,surinam 7,dutch ,guiana71 ,trinidad 7,w4 ,i471 from ,africa1 the ,seychelles1 ,martinique1 and ,bourbon1 variable amounts are beginning to appear as regular products4 ,it is generally understood that some of the best sorts of ,south ,american cocoa are consumed at home and do not find their way1 in definite quantities1 or as a stated supply1 to any foreign ports4 ,among these are ,soconusco and ,esmeraldas4 ,at the last ,french exposition these and other very fine sorts from ,venezuela and ,ecuador were exhibited4 ,new fields are being opened up in many directions to meet the increasing demand for the product4 ,,iii4 ,,the ,,seeds ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate-,,plant ,,as ,,they ,,appear ,,in ,,commerce4 ,,their ,,microscopic ,,and ,,chemical ,,characters4 ,the seeds of the chocolate-plant are brought into the market in their crude state1 as almond-shaped 8beans10 which differ in color and somewhat in texture4 ,it is not uncommon to find the external surface of the bean more or less covered with a thin irregular layer of attached earth1 but this is generally pretty well cleared off during the transportation4 ,upon the color of shell and kernel1 the relative brittleness1 the flavor1 and the odor1 depends the market value of the seeds4 ,the dried seeds have a papery1 brittle shell1 which is very smooth on the inside1 but on the outside exhibits1 under the microscope1 a few short hairs and round excrescences4 ,but these are mostly lost by the rough handling and by the attrition of the seeds with one another during transportation4 ,the kernel consists of two large cotyledons or seed-leaves1 reddish-gray or reddish-brown1 with a shining1 oily surface2 the whole crushing rather easily into a loose mass of fragments4 ,the kernel1 when dry1 has a minute1 tough1 almost stony radicle which separates easily from the cotyledons4 ,microscopic examination shows that the cells of the seed-leaves contain albumen1 oily matters1--sometimes in a crystalline condition1--crystals of an entirely different shape1 starch1 coloring substances in special receptacles known as pigment-cells1 and ducts with spiral markings4 ,the starch grains do not have any very characteristic form or markings3 they are generally spherical and simple4 ,the only peculiarity worth mentioning1 is the relative slowness with which they are acted on by hot water and by iodine4 ,the coloring substances are mainly of a carmine or violet color1 and are distinguished by the change of shade when an alkali is added1 becoming thereby darker4 ,these are the only structural elements which a pure powder or paste of chocolate should show under the microscope4 ,any other substances must be recognized as accidental or intentional additions4 ,all seeds of whatever kind contain1 as a part of their substance1 the matter of which cell-walls are made2 namely1 cellulose4 ,the percentage differs in different seeds1 in those of the chocolate-plant being about three in the hundred4 ,cellulose has the same chemical composition as starch2 but its physical properties are not the same as those of starch1 among which may be mentioned its entire insolubility in boiling water4 ,starch forms1 on an average1 eight to ten per cent of chocolate-seeds4 ,it consists of minute spherical grains1 not distinguishable from that found in many other kinds of seeds4 ,traces of gum and of other allied bodies are also present in the seeds4 ,albuminoids1 or substances resembling1 in a general way1 the albumin of egg1 occur in chocolate-seeds as they do in other seeds1 and in a somewhat higher amount than in certain other cases in which the seeds are used as food4 ,the percentage ranges from about fifteen to twenty1 depending on the variety4 ,these albuminoids are compounds of nitrogen1 and are extremely nutritious4 ,in the seeds they occur in a readily assimilable form1 fit for digestion4 ,their peculiar relations as flesh-formers are referred to in the section treating of the physiology of chocolate-seeds4 ,cacao-red occurs as a coloring matter in small amount4 ,it is rendered dark by alkalies4 ,theobromine1 the active principle of the cocoa-bean1 constitutes less than one per cent of the weight of the seeds1 but it varies greatly in amount in different seeds1 ranging from of one per cent in some1 to a trifle over one per cent in others4 ,the ash left on completely burning cocoa-beans is not far from four per cent4 ,its composition is substantially that of the ash of seeds of other plants4 ,cocoa-butter1 or oil1 constitutes not far from fifty per cent of good cocoa-beans4 ,the oil is remarkable for its freedom from rancidity and its very bland character4 ,its uses are innumerable4 ,the following averages of many analyses by a leading recent authority may be of interest3-- ,,unroasted4 ,moisture #g4aa ,oil #ea4gh ,theobromine 4#ce ,starch #e4gh ,cellulose #c4a ,other carbohydrates1 glucosides1 etc4 #aj4je ,protein matters #ae4fa ,ash #c4fj ,,roasted4 ,moisture #f4ea ,oil #di4bd ,theobromine 4#dc ,starch #aj4dc ,cellulose #c4a ,other carbohydrates1 glucosides1 etc4 #g4gh ,protein matters #ah4cc ,ash #c4ib ,,iv4 ,,manufacture ,,of ,,chocolate ,,and ,,breakfast ,,cocoa4 ,we have already called attention to the simple process by which the natives of ,central ,america prepared a nutritious beverage from the seeds of the chocolate-plant4 ,the essential features of this process1 modified and greatly improved by modern science1 are worthy of consideration at this time4 ,the selected cocoa-beans are first cleaned from the dust and attached particles which have come from various sources during the fermentation of the seeds4 ,the machines for cleaning the beans are very ingenious and effective1 removing from the seed-coat every trace of foreign matter4 ,the cleaned seeds are next roasted in the most careful manner1 every precaution being taken to secure a uniform effect through the whole mass4 ,during the roasting the seeds change color somewhat and become more or less modified in taste4 ,in under-roasted seeds the flavor is not fully developed1 while in over-roasted seeds the pleasant taste is likely to become greatly impaired1 or it may even be wholly replaced by a bitter and harsh flavor4 ,these relations of color and taste to the roasting of the seeds make this portion of the manufacture one of the most delicate processes from beginning to end4 ,by the roasting the shell becomes more readily detachable1 and its complete removal is the next step4 ,the crushing of the seeds into small fragments is easily accomplished2 and this is followed by a thorough winnowing1 by which the lighter shells are carried away by themselves1 leaving the clean fragments of the roasted seeds ready for further manipulation4 ,among the fragments can be detected minute and very tough bits of tissue4 ,these bits are the hardened germs1 or rather portions of the germs1 and these are separated from the rest by an apparatus of much simplicity and efficiency4 ,the clean shells are usually placed at once in packages for transportation4 ,they are extensively used for the domestic preparation of a wholesome and very low-priced drink4 ,this beverage contains a fair proportion of the active principle of the chocolate-seeds themselves1 and the flavor is suggestive of chocolate4 ,the cleaned fragments constitute the so-called 8cocoa-nibs0 of some foreign markets1 and in this state they are used for the preparation of a simple decoction4 ,but in this form they require to be boiled a good while for the development of flavor1 and it is therefore better to have them treated beforehand in order to reduce the time of boiling2 and this is all the more necessary1 since during the long boiling a part of the more delicate aroma peculiar to chocolate-seeds is apt to be dissipated4 ,we are next to trace these fragments1 through the chocolate-mill1 and afterwards follow similar fragments through the cocoa-factory4 ,in the preparation of chocolate1 the fragments are ground by a complicated mechanism until they attain the greatest degree of fineness1 and constitute a perfectly homogeneous mass or paste4 ,if the chocolate is to be a plain chocolate1 it is to receive its delicate flavoring and then go directly into the moulds for shaping it4 ,every step of the process has to be watched with the most assiduous care4 ,when the chocolate is formed and properly cooled1 it is wrapped and packed for the market4 ,but if the chocolate is to be sweetened1 a definite amount of the purest sugar1 previously pulverized1 is to be added1 the whole ground and commingled1 the proper flavoring of pure vanilla added1 and the semi-solid mass formed in moulds as before4 ,after being moulded it is sent to the packing-room and wrapped4 ,the variations in the process are innumerable1 but all of them are comparatively unimportant when taken singly2 the skill in the manufacture requires that each of these slight changes should be made at just the right time and in the right way4 ,in the manufacture of ,walter ,baker and ,co4's chocolate1 this skill has become developed to a very high degree during the hundred years of success4 ,that the firm is ready to avail itself of every appliance known in modern manufacture1 is seen by their adoption of the complicated machinery illustrated on page #bi4 ,this chocolate-machine has a capacity of five tons of pure chocolate daily4 ,it is accessible to visitors1 who may apply at the office in ,dorchester for permission to see it in operation4 ,it is unnecessary to detail the steps of manufacture of many of the chocolate specialties of the firm4 ,we turn now to the consideration of breakfast cocoa4 ,the manufacture of breakfast cocoa is based upon two important factors3 first1 the removal of a definite portion of the cocoa-oil from the roasted seeds2 and second1 increasing the miscibility of the powdered seeds by securing the greatest practicable degree of fineness4 ,illustration3 ,,one ,,of ,,the ,,chocolate-,,machines ,,at ,,the ,,manufactory ,,of ,,walter ,,baker ,,co4 ,,capacity1 ,,five ,,tons ,,of ,,chocolate ,,daily4 ,while the oil of the chocolate-seed is perfectly wholesome1 there are some persons who find in the percentage natural to the seeds a too large amount for easy digestion4 ,the removal of a part of this1 which might with propriety be called an excess of the oil1 was practised even in very early days1 as is seen in the cut herewith given1 taken from an old work on the subject4 ,the present method of extracting the oil is not essentially different1 save in a few particulars1 from that here figured1 and therefore need not be described in detail4 ,illustration ,the method of manufacture is substantially as follows3 the ground fragments of roasted seeds are subjected to pressure1 and with the result of withdrawing just as much oil as the manufacturers desire to abstract4 ,the pressed mass is1 in the most successful process1 treated mechanically in such a manner as to divide and subdivide the minute particles until they are capable of passing through a sieve having several thousand meshes to the square inch4 ,but such pulverization as this would1 under ordinary circumstances1 reduce the mass to a dull and unattractive powder4 ,in the process devised by the firm of ,walter ,baker and ,co41 this high degree of fineness is secured without any loss of brilliancy in the powder1--the color being of the bright-red which is not only attractive in appearance1 but when conjoined with the natural chocolate odor and flavor is characteristic of absolutely pure cocoa of the highest grade4 ,it is instructive to compare such cocoa with the cocoas prepared by what is known in chemical technology as the chemical process4 ,the latter are prepared by treatment with alkaline matters which act on the coloring substances in the seeds1 increasing the apparent effect of hot water when the latter is added4 ,in chemically prepared cocoas1 the exquisite natural odor and flavor of pure cocoa-seeds have been diminished or wholly lost by the severe treatment to which the materials have been subjected4 ,in some cases the loss of the natural flavor is sought to be partially supplied by the use of fragrant gums1 wholly foreign to the natural product4 ,the detection of these admixtures is generally easy4 ,comparison with the well-known pure breakfast cocoa of ,walter ,baker and ,co4 will reveal at once the vast superiority of a product which has not been treated by chemicals1 but which contains only the finest possible powder of the best chocolate-seeds freed from the excess of oil4 ,the exquisite flavor and odor of the pure product are due wholly to the seeds themselves1 since absolutely no foreign matter is added from first to last4 ,walter ,baker and ,co4's breakfast cocoa can be used by students of the microscope and of chemistry as a perfect type of the highest order of excellence in manufacture4 ,the enormous increase in consumption of ,baker's cocoa and chocolate indicates that our discriminating public appreciate a thoroughly good article when they see it4 ,v4 ,,some ,,physiological ,,aspects ,,of ,,chocolate-,,seeds4--,,value ,,of ,,chocolate ,,as ,,an ,,article ,,of ,,food4 ,the seeds of plants contain a germ1 or embryo1 together with a certain amount of food4 ,as soon as the germ sprouts1 the food1 or a good part of it1 is consumed by the seedling1 being used by it in the formation of new parts1 such as roots and leaves by which the materials for more food can be obtained from the soil and air4 ,now it happens that the food of plants is pretty much the same as the food of animals1 although there is this marked difference in the manner of procuring it3 plants can construct their own food from inorganic or mineral matters taken from the earth and atmosphere1 while animals1 even those which are most like plants1 must have their supply of food from organic nature4 ,since1 then1 plants prepare the food which animals are to use 7of course flesh-eating animals use their plants1 so to speak1 at second-hand71 it comes to pass very naturally that the food in a good many seeds has been recognized from early times as very useful food for man4 ,thus the cereals--wheat1 maize1 oats1 barley1 and rice--are the seeds of grasses2 and there are many other seeds1 such as beans1 peas1 buckwheat1 and so on1 which have been appropriated as food by man from remote antiquity4 ,but the seeds of some plants are unfit for human food1 owing to disagreeable properties which they possess2 while there are a few which stand on the very edge of the limit of foods1 and have been used in time of scarcity4 ,the seeds of at least two plants are used as important adjuncts to our list of foods1 and can be enumerated among foods without any impropriety4 ,these are coffee and cocoa4 ,they contain nutritive properties1--the latter in very much higher degree than the former1--and they possess also peculiar constituents which entitle them to rank as luxuries4 ,these peculiar constituents are 7#a7 flavoring matters1 and 7#b7 an active principle4 ,but1 either from its constitution or from its association in the seed1 the active principle of coffee1 although it has nearly or quite the same ultimate composition as the active principle of cocoa1 is unlike it in its effects4 ,the active principle of cocoa is substantially free1 as used in its preparations1 from any undesirable effects on the nervous system4 ,this active principle of cocoa is ,theobromine4 ,the essentials of a perfect food are 7#a7 a certain amount of carbohydrates1 7#b7 of albuminoids1 and 7#c7 certain mineral matters1 these latter being substantially the same in all seeds used as food4 ,in cocoa these three groups are combined in proper proportion to constitute a complete food1 but there is superadded the active principle1 ,theobromine1 which places it at once in the class of luxuries as well as of necessary foods4 ,when cocoa-seeds are prepared properly for food1 without doing violence to the chemical relations of the different components1 a comforting nutritive article of the highest value is obtained4 ,this ideal method of preparation is not a chemical torturing by the addition of foreign ingredients1 as in the alkali process1 but it consists in the complete unlocking1 by perfectly natural1 mechanical means1 of all the virtues of the seeds4 ,we do not try to render the albuminoids of wheat and other grains soluble by means of ammonia1 soda1 or potash1 nor do we think it desirable to increase the solubility of the albuminoids of egg and meat by adding caustic or carbonated alkalies to them before they are used4 ,and yet chemical processes analogous to these have been devised and are sometimes used with regard to cocoa4 ,in most cases these added substances are detected in the increased amount of mineral matters found in the ash after burning the preparation4 ,the amount of ash in pure cocoa is about four per cent4 ,any appreciable amount above this may be attributed to the admixture of mineral matters used in the preparation4 ,the oil in pure chocolate-seeds is about fifty per cent of the whole weight4 ,although the oil is exceedingly bland and free from rancidity1 it has been found expedient in some cases to withdraw a part of this oil1 leaving a smaller amount in the product4 ,this is the method pursued in the manufacture of the powdered cocoas4 ,with this reduction in the quantity of oil1 the resultant beverage is less likely to disagree with delicate digestion4 ,it is in all cases of the first importance to obtain only pure cocoa of the highest quality1 free from any admixture of foreign matter1 such as the alkalies or their carbonates2 and further1 the product ought to be of the greatest degree of fineness4 ,with regard to the flavors added to chocolate1 it is perhaps needless to say that they should be of the utmost degree of purity4 ,this is especially true of vanilla1 which owing to its high cost is frequently replaced by artificial flavors4 ,there is1 in one respect1 a notable difference between sweet chocolate and cocoa3 the former may be flavored1 the latter should never be4 ,a pure cocoa must be absolutely dependent on its own delicious1 natural odor and flavor4 ,no addition of any substance of any kind is admissible4 ,,suggestions ,,relative ,,to ,,the ,,cooking ,,of ,,chocolate ,,and ,,cocoa4 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,ellen ,h4 ,,richards1 ,of the ,massachusetts ,institute of ,technology4 ,the flavor of the cocoa-bean seems to be almost universally liked1 and the use of the various preparations made from it is constantly increasing4 ,from the sweet chocolate with which the traveller now provides himself in all journeys in which the supply of food is doubtful either in quantity or quality1 to delicate coloring and flavoring of cakes and ices1 nearly all kinds of culinary preparations have benefited by the abundance of this favorite substance4 ,in these forms1 chocolate is used in a semi-raw state1 the bean having been simply roasted at a gentle heat1 ground1 and mixed with sugar1 which holds the fat4 ,by varying the quantity of the chocolate to be mixed with the ingredients of the cake or ice1 an unlimited variety of flavors can be obtained4 ,in preparing it as a beverage for the table a mistake has been frequently made in considering chocolate merely as a flavor1 an adjunct to the rest of the meal1 instead of giving it its due prominence as a real food1 containing all of the necessary nutritive principles4 ,a cup of chocolate made with sugar and milk is in itself a fair breakfast4 ,there is much to be said in favor of preparations of the whole bean which secure all of the valuable nutrition contained in this 8food for the gods10 and rightly understood1 it is possible to make them more important articles of diet than they now are4 ,but since the large percentage of fat seems to require correspondingly large quantities of sugar to render the beverage palatable1 and this very rich1 sweet drink soon cloys if made strong enough to be nutritious1 it is1 fortunately1 possible to extract the larger part of the fat without injury to the flavor so characteristic of chocolate4 ,in this form1 called cocoa1 less sugar and more milk are needed1 and the resulting beverage suits even delicate stomachs1 and is yet of high food value4 ,it is the object of all cooking to render raw material more palatable and more nutritious1 and therefore more digestible4 ,the cooking of cocoa and chocolate is no exception to this rule4 ,certain extractive principles are soluble only in water which has reached the boiling-point2 and the starch1 which the seed contains1 is swollen only at this temperature4 ,chocolate or cocoa is not properly cooked by having boiling water poured over it4 ,it is true that as the whole powder is in suspension and is swallowed1 its food material can be assimilated as it is when the prepared chocolate is eaten raw2 but in order to bring out the full1 fine flavor and to secure the most complete digestibility1 the preparation1 whatever it be1 should be subjected to the boiling-point for a few minutes4 ,in this all connoisseurs are agreed4 ,,receipts4 ,,by ,,miss ,,parloa4 ,,plain ,,chocolate4 ,for six people1 use one quart of milk1 two ounces of ,w4 ,baker ,co4's ,no4 #a chocolate1 one tablespoonful of corn-starch1 three tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and two tablespoonfuls of hot water4 ,mix the corn-starch with one gill of the milk4 ,put the remainder of the milk on to heat in the double-boiler4 ,when the milk comes to the boiling-point stir in the corn-starch1 and cook for ten minutes4 ,have the chocolate cut in fine bits and put it in a small iron or granite-ware pan2 add the sugar and water1 and place the pan over a hot fire4 ,stir constantly until the mixture is smooth and glossy4 ,add this to the hot milk and beat the mixture with a whisk until it is frothy4 ,or the chocolate may be poured back and forth from the boiler to a pitcher1 holding high the vessel from which you pour4 ,this will give a thick froth4 ,serve at once4 ,if you prefer not to have the chocolate thick1 omit the corn-starch4 ,,chocolate ,,made ,,with ,,condensed ,,milk4 ,follow the rule for plain chocolate1 substituting water for the milk1 and adding three tablespoonfuls of condensed milk when the chocolate is added4 ,,chocolate2 ,,vienna ,,style4 ,use four ounces of vanilla chocolate1 one quart of milk1 three tablespoonfuls of hot water1 and one tablespoonful of sugar4 ,cut the chocolate in fine bits4 ,put the milk on the stove in the double-boiler1 and when it has been heated to the boiling-point1 put the chocolate1 sugar1 and water in a small iron or granite-ware pan and stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy4 ,stir this mixture into the hot milk1 and beat well with a whisk4 ,serve at once1 putting a tablespoonful of whipped cream in each cup and then filling up with the chocolate4 ,the plain chocolate may be used instead of the vanilla1 but in that case use a teaspoonful of vanilla extract and three generous tablespoonfuls of sugar instead of one4 ,,breakfast ,,cocoa4 ,breakfast cocoa is powdered so fine that it can be dissolved by pouring boiling water on it4 ,for this reason it is often prepared at the table4 ,a small teaspoonful of the powder is put in the cup with a teaspoonful of sugar2 on this is poured two-thirds of a cupful of boiling water1 and milk or cream is added to suit the individual taste4 ,this is very convenient2 but cocoa is not nearly so good when prepared in this manner as when it is boiled4 ,for six cupfuls of cocoa use two tablespoonfuls of the powder1 two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 half a pint of boiling water1 and a pint and a half of milk4 ,put the milk on the stove in the double-boiler4 ,put the cocoa and sugar in a saucepan and gradually pour the hot water upon them1 stirring all the time4 ,place the saucepan on the fire and stir until the contents boil4 ,let this mixture boil for five minutes2 then add the boiling milk1 and serve4 ,a gill of cream is a great addition to this cocoa4 ,,chocolate ,,cake4 ,for two sheets of cake use three ounces of ,w4 ,baker ,co4's ,no4 #a chocolate1 three eggs1 one cupful and three-fourths of sifted pastry flour1 one cupful and three-fourths of sugar1 half a cupful of butter1 half a cupful of milk1 half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract1 one teaspoonful and a half of baking powder4 ,grate the chocolate4 ,beat the butter to a cream and gradually beat in the sugar4 ,beat in the milk and vanilla1 then the eggs 7already well beaten71 next the chocolate1 and finally the flour1 in which the baking powder should be mixed4 ,pour into two well-buttered shallow cake-pans4 ,bake for twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven4 ,frost or not1 as you like4 ,,vanilla ,,frosting4 ,break the white of one large egg into a bowl1 and gradually beat into it one cupful of confectioner's sugar4 ,beat for three minutes1 add half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract1 and spread thinly on the cakes4 ,,chocolate ,,icing4 ,make a vanilla icing and add one tablespoonful of cold water to it4 ,scrape fine one ounce of ,no4 #a chocolate and put it in a small iron or granite-ware saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of confectioner's sugar and one tablespoonful of hot water4 ,stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy1 then add another tablespoonful of hot water4 ,stir the dissolved chocolate into the vanilla icing4 ,,chocolate ,,ice-,,cream4 ,for about two quarts and a half of cream use a pint and a half of milk1 a quart of thin cream1 two cupfuls of sugar1 two ounces of ,no4 #a chocolate1 two eggs1 and two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour4 ,put the milk on to boil in the double-boiler4 ,put the flour and one cupful of the sugar in a bowl2 add the eggs1 and beat the mixture until light4 ,stir this into the boiling milk and cook for twenty minutes1 stirring often4 ,scrape the chocolate and put it in a small saucepan4 ,add four tablespoonfuls of sugar 7which should be taken from the second cupful7 and two tablespoonfuls of hot water4 ,stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy4 ,add this to the cooking mixture4 ,when the preparation has cooked for twenty minutes take it from the fire and add the remainder of the sugar and the cream1 which should be gradually beaten into the hot mixture4 ,set away to cool1 and when cold1 freeze4 ,,chocolate ,,pudding4 ,for a small pudding use one pint of milk1 two tablespoonfuls and a half of corn-starch1 one ounce of chocolate1 two eggs1 five tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar1 one-fourth of a teaspoonful of salt1 and half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract4 ,mix the corn-starch with one gill of the milk4 ,put the remainder of the milk on to boil in the double-boiler4 ,scrape the chocolate4 ,when the milk boils1 add the corn-starch1 salt1 and chocolate1 and cook for ten minutes4 ,beat the yolks of the eggs with three tablespoonfuls of the sugar4 ,pour the hot mixture on this and beat well4 ,turn into a pudding-dish that will hold about a quart1 and bake for twenty minutes in a moderate oven4 ,beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff1 dry froth1 and gradually beat in the remaining two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the vanilla4 ,spread this on the pudding and return to the oven4 ,cook for fifteen minutes longer1 but with the oven-door open4 ,serve either cold or hot4 ,,bavarian ,,chocolate ,,cream4 ,for one large mould of cream1 use half a package of gelatine1 one gill of milk1 two quarts of whipped cream1 one gill of sugar1 and one ounce of chocolate4 ,soak the gelatine in the cold water for two hours4 ,whip and drain the cream1 scrape the chocolate1 and put the milk on to boil4 ,put the chocolate1 two tablespoonfuls of sugar1 and one of hot water1 in a small saucepan1 and stir on a hot fire until smooth and glossy4 ,stir this into the hot milk4 ,now add the soaked gelatine and the remainder of the sugar4 ,strain this mixture into a basin that will hold two quarts or more4 ,place the basin in a pan of ice-water and stir until the mixture is cold1 when it will begin to thicken4 ,instantly begin to stir in the whipped cream1 adding half the amount at first4 ,when all the cream has been added1 dip the mould in cold water and then turn the cream into it4 ,place in the ice-chest for an hour or more4 ,at serving-time dip the mould in tepid water4 ,see that the cream will come from the sides of the mould1 and turn out on a flat dish4 ,serve with whipped cream4