,,univ]sity ,,( ,,ill9ois ,,bullet9 ,,vol4 ,x4 ,,nov4 #be1 #aiab ,,no4 #ac ,ent]$ ,febru>y #ad1 #aijb1 at ,urbana1 ,ill9ois1 z second-class matt] "u ,act ( ,congress ( ,july #af1 #ahid4 ,dep>tm5t ( ,h\sehold ,sci5ce ,"s ,po9ts 9 ,*oos+ ,textiles ,by ,*>lotte ,m4 ,gibbs1 ,m4 ,a4 ,illu/ration ,,publi%$ ,,by ,,! ,,univ]sity ,,urbana-,,*ampaign ,,"s ,,po9ts ,,9 ,,*oos+ ,,textiles ,9 ! pa/ c5tury a great *ange has come ab\t 9 ! position ( ! woman 9 ! home1 :i* has v vitally affect$ h] relation to ! textile indu/ries4 ,9 ! e>ly days 9 ?is c\ntry ne>ly e woman produc$ ! clo?+ = h]self & family1 also ! h\sehold l95s f ! rais+ ( ! %eep or flax to ! f9i%$ product4 ,n[ all is *ang$2 ) ! introduction ( ready-made suits & o!r g>m5ts1 ev5 ! sew+ is rapidly go+ f ! home1 :ile ! manufacture ( clo? is a =gott5 art4 ,9 old5 times ! quality ( home-spun & wov5 mat]ial 0 ! be/ possible to be obta9$ f ! mat]ials & me?ods kn[n4 ,wool5 clo? 0 all wool1 & l95 clo? 0 n adult]at$ ) />*1 or half cotton4 ,hone/ & durable mat]ials 7 ! rule ( ! day4 ,) ! introduction ( ma*9]y & ! factory sy/em came ke5 competition4 ,mod]n discov]ies1 *emical & o!rwise1 h increas$ ! possibilities ( cotton1 l951 silk & wool s t n[ x is difficult to recognize ! orig9al fib] 9 "s ( ! mat]ials sold4 ,?us on ! "o h& ! field ( textile k has gr[n v mu*1 :ile on ! o!r h& ! k ( wom5 conc]n+ textile fabrics has decreas$1 s9ce !y are no long] ! mak]s ( clo?1 nor d !y always ga9 a k ( its *>act]i/ics ?r\gh ! mak+ ( g>m5ts4 ,! result has be5 t wom5 dep5d m & m on ! ^w ( cl]ks1 :o are (t5 z ignorant z !mselves1 until by pa9ful exp]i5ce ! buy]s le>n "s ( ! ?+s to be avoid$4 ,z co/ ( liv+ increases1 & dem&s ^u ! family purse increase1 x is m & m important t ! woman ( ! h\sehold %\ld "k h[ to sp5d ! family income mo/ economically4 ,s9ce f t5 to tw5ty p]c5t ( ?is income is sp5t = clo?+ & h\se furni%+1 x is imp]ative t m ?\ght & c>eful /udy %\ld be put ^u ?is bran* ( h\sehold economy4 ,! object ( ?is bullet9 is to give "s bits ( in=mation ab\t textile fib]s1 _! manufacture & adult]ation1 :i* may help 9 ga9+ t judgm5t 9 buy+ ess5tial to e woman4 ,c]ta9 adult]ations & devices ( ! mod]n manufactur] are s skillfully conceal$ z to be detect$ only by ! use ( *emical te/s1 or ! high p[] microscope4 ,) ^! ?is bullet9 w n deal1 b only ) ^? qualities & adult]ations :i* may be detect$ )\t ! aid ( laboratory equipm5t4 ,mu* ( c\rse may be le>n$ by exp]i5ce1 b x seems bett] to save "t & money by kn[+ be=eh& :at is to be dem&$1 :at gu>d$ aga9/4 ,ea* "o ( ! common mat]ials us$ = textile fabrics1 cotton1 l951 wool & silk1 has its *>act]i/ics1 ea* its def9ite uses4 ,c]ta9 peculi>ities 9 physical or *emical nature make ea* fib] peculi>ly adapt$ to c]ta9 uses1 b s long z ^! g5]al qualities are ma9ta9$ ! v>iety ( mat]ials produc$ f ^! fib]s may be enorm\s4 ,comb9ations ( fib]s 9 "o mat]ial1 adult]ation ) *eap] fib]s1 or ) />*es or metallic salts1 may s]ve to r$uce ! co/1 & yet ! purpose ( ! mat]ial may be fulfill$4 ,= c]ta9 purposes ! mat]ials may be us$ int]*angeably4 ,,cotton ,cotton is *eap & v pl5tiful4 ,x has %ort1 flat fib]s1 ) a spiral twi/1 ?us giv+ ela/icity & ! possibility ( be+ spun into f9e ?read4 ,be+ 9 itself v useful & inexp5sive & capable ( replac+1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1 any o!r fib]1 x is us$ 9 v l>ge quantities ! _w ov]1 & is manufactur$ into a great v>iety ( mat]ials4 ,! quality ( ^! mat]ials dep5ds on ! /r5g? ( ! fib]s1 ! f95ess or co>s5ess ( mat]ial1 ! weave1 ! color & design1 & ! adult]ations4 ,cotton1 be+ *eape/1 is n adult]at$ ) any ( ! o!r fib]s m5tion$1 :5 ! mat]ial is to be sold z cotton clo?1 b x c be made to appe> heavi] by ! addition ( mixtures call$ siz+4 ,/>*es1 gums1 dextr9e1 glue1 *9a clay1 z well z o!r +r$i5ts 9 v>y+ proportions1 con/itute ?is siz+ :i* may add a l>ge p]c5t to ! weight ( ! clo?4 ,! spaces betwe5 ! ?reads are fill$ up & a good f9i% is giv5 to ! clo?1 al?\gh ! we>+ quality is n increas$4 ,if pres5t 9 l>ge quantities ! clo? is greatly r$uc$ 9 weight & firmness aft] ! fir/ wa%+4 ,adult]ations ( ?is k9d c be detect$ by ! feel+1 a l>ge quantity imp>t+ a h>%ness to ! mat]ial4 ,9 v ?9 fabrics ! siz+ may (t5 be detect$ by hold+ ! clo? up to ! light :5 ! />* %[s betwe5 ! ?reads4 ,wa%+ or ?or\gh boil+ ( a sample w %[ ! am\nt ( siz+ pres5t4 ,ano!r me?od ( adult]at+ cotton is %[n 9 c]ta9 k9ds ( dott$ swiss4 ,a good swiss has ?read dots wov5 or embroid]$ 9 ! clo?4 ,fig4 #a;,a %[s a piece ( mat]ial sold at ! price ( a good swiss1 b 9 ?is case ! dots are m]ely a heavy pa/e1 pr9t$ on ! clo?4 ,fig4 #a;,b %[s ! result ( cont9u$ wa%+1 :]e ! dots h disappe>$1 & ,fig4 #a;,c1 ! result ( iron+ ) a hot iron1 :i* turn$ ! spots br[n be=e ! clo? itself is h>m$4 ,m]c]iz$ cotton is a clo? produc$ by ! action ( a /rong alkali on cotton fib] r9s$ "u t5sion4 ,x is a /rong1 attractive mat]ial1 ) good we>+ qualities4 ,an imitation ( ?is may be made by ! action ( v heavy & v hot cyl9d]s on ord9>y cotton clo?4 ,! m]c]iz$ clo? has a high lu/] :i* x reta9s aft] _m wa%+s :ile ! imitation loses its lu/] ) ! fir/ wa%+4 ,sometimes cotton clo? :i* has be5 on ! m>ket = "s "t is weak5$ by ! action ( ! *emicals us$ 9 blea*+1 dye+ or 9 ! siz+4 ,?is may be easily detect$ by te>+ ! clo?4 ,/&>d cotton mat]ials su* z musl9s1 org&ies1 p]cales1 calicoes & %eet+1 diff] only 9 ! weight ( ! mat]ial1 f95ess ( ?read1 h>dness ( twi/ & me?od ( f9i%4 ,g+hams h ! ?read dy$ be=e weav+ & fancy weaves are frequ5tly us$4 ,duck1 d5im & "s o!r heavy mat]ials h v h>d twi/$ ?reads & are frequ5tly wov5 ) a twill4 ,silkol5e is a trade "n = a f9e cotton clo? ) a silky f9i% giv5 aft] ! clo? is wov54 ,m]c]iz$ cottons make lu/r\s mat]ials z popl91 imitation pongee & num]\s attractive h\se furni%+ mat]ials4 ,india 8l9on0 is entirely cotton1 ) a fleecy surface on ! wrong side1 z is 8out+ flannel0 & 8canton flannel04 ,_m 8tussahs10 8voiles0 & 8economy l95s0 & o!r mat]ials ) r deceptive names are cotton mat]ials made to imitate silk1 wool or l954 ,,l95 ,l95 0 =m]ly ! mo/ important vegetable fib]1 & 0 commonly us$ = all h\sehold purposes4 ,( late ye>s x has be5 l>gely replac$ by cotton ) :i* x may be comp>$ al?\gh !re are /ill uses = :i* we dem& l951 & o!rs = :i* we pref] l95 to cotton4 ,! l95 fib] is long1 smoo? & q lu/r\s1 :5 spun into a ?read4 ,x is v /rong & !re are n s _m fuzzy ends z are f\nd 9 cotton4 ,clo? made f x is n only lu/r\s & ri* look+1 b because ( its smoo?ness /ays clean long] ?an cotton4 ,! sn[y :it5ess ( l95 obta9$ ) "s difficulty 9 blea*+ is q p]man5t1 & s9ce ! fib] takes dyes ) difficulty & p>ts ) !m q readily1 x also does n reta9 /a9s z p]si/5tly z cotton does4 ,l95 is mu* m exp5sive ?an cotton1 & :5 l95 prices are paid l95 %\ld be dem&$4 ,s9ce ! two fib]s are r h>d to di/+ui%1 especially :5 heavily />*$ & giv5 a good f9i%1 x is q easy to deceive ! buy]4 8,l950 coll>s are frequ5tly l>gely cotton1 8l950 h&k]*iefs may n h a ?read ( l951 z is apt to be ! case ) r inexp5sive embroid]$ h&k]*iefs1 & table 8l950 may be m]c]iz$ cotton1 cotton & l951 or ev5 ord9>y cotton4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,b ,c ,,fig4 #a ,to di/+ui% l95 f cotton1 exam9e ! ?reads c>efully2 cotton is made up ( %ort fib]s :i* project f ! surface ( ! ?read1 & become fuzzy :5 ! ?read is rubb$ betwe5 ! f+]s2 :5 brok51 cotton has a tuft$ end1 :ile ! l95 fib]s break m unev5ly & leave a m po9t$ end4 ,! l95 ?read %\ld be /rong] ?an ! cotton2 x has m lu/] & is usually m unev54 ,"s k9ds ( l95 h flat ?reads1 b cotton is frequ5tly f9i%$ 9 imitation ( flat ?read l954 ,! old te/ ( moi/5+ ! f+] & putt+ x "u ! clo? is n always a sure "o1 z ! moi/ure w n come ?r\gh a heavy l951 or "o ) mu* />* 9 x1 & x w come ?r\gh a %e]1 tightly twi/$ cotton4 ,a bett] te/ is to put a drop ( olive oil on ! clo? & press betwe5 blott+ pap]s4 ,! l95 becomes m transp>5t ?an ! cotton4 ,!re is a peculi> lea!ry feel ab\t good table l951 :i* cotton w n give1 & ! lu/] is diff]5t al?\gh ! diff]5ce is h>d to describe4 ,! typical weaves us$ = l95s are z foll[s4 ,! damask1 sat9 or sate5 weave us$ = table l95s & t[els is especially good = ! =m] because ( ! v smoo? lu/r\s surface x af=ds1 b n s good = t[els z x does n absorb moi/ure v readily1 al?\gh x is v attractive4 ,huck1 an unev5 weave1 giv+ a good surface = ! absorption ( wat]1 makes spl5did t[els1 & decorat$ ) designs 9 damask weave may be v h&some4 ,_m l95s 9 pla9 weaves are available = clo?+1 embroid]y1 etc41 :ile ! co>se ,russian cra%es are becom+ q popul> = decorative purposes4 ,! texture ( l95 is su* t ! heavi] k9ds hang well 9 folds1 lie flat on a table1 & are v arti/ic = _m purposes4 ,,wool ,wool1 ! second fib] 9 am\nt us$ = clo?+1 is an animal fib] & diff]s greatly f ! vegetable fib]s discuss$4 ,wool f ! %eep's back diff]s f hair ( goats or o!r animals 9 sev]al ways4 ,wool is v curly1 & possesses a scaly /ructure 9 a mu* m m>k$ degree ?an hair1 9 :i* ! ext]nal scales lie flat4 ,! surface ( wool has sometimes be5 comp>$ to a p9e cone1 or ! scales ( a fi%1 al?\gh ^! two are q diff]5t4 ,! scales on ! wool fib] :5 moi/ & w>m /& up1 m z ! p9e cone1 & :5 cold & dry or cold & moi/1 lie flat4 ,?is peculi> /ructure ( ! surface ( ! wool fib]s gives !m ! prop]ty ( felt+1 or matt+ v closely toge!r4 ,wool is also q ela/ic1 al?\gh x has n great /r5g?4 ,s9ce ! dem& = wool5 clo? f> exce$s ! supply ( new wool !re are _m devices = mak+ ! supply g a long way1 & consequ5tly _m me?ods = deceiv+ ! buy]4 ,9 adult]at+ a mat]ial ! manufactur] seeks a mat]ial *eap] ?an ! fib] he wi%es to adult]ate1 "o :i* c be conceal$ readily4 ,wool :5 comb9$ ) ! *eap] cotton fib] makes a mat]ial :i* we>s well1 b does n keep its %ape z well z all-wool clo?1 is less w>m1 & %\ld ( c\rse receive a l[] price ?an all-wool4 ,because ( ! felt+ prop]ty ( wool x is q possible to conceal a good deal ( cotton "u ! surface ( ! wool5 clo?1 & :5 ! fib]s are mix$ be=e ! ?reads are spun ! task ( detect+ !m becomes d\bly difficult4 ,,wool5s ,,& ,,wor/$s ,two classes ( clo? are manufactur$ f wool4 ,wool5s are made usually ( %ort wool c>d$ & spun into y>n 9 :i* ! ?reads lie 9 all directions4 ,?is is wov5 into clo? :i* usually has ! surface heavily felt$1 s t all ( ! int]sections ( ?reads 9 weav+ are cov]$4 ,"h !n is spl5did opportunity = adult]ation1 s9ce cotton or poor wool may be cov]$ up by ! surface felt+4 ,,wor/$ ,! o!r class is made f long] /aple wool1 comb$1 & drawn until ! fib]s are p>allel1 !n h>d twi/$4 ,:5 wov5 ! ends ( ! ?reads d n project on ! surface1 & ! f9i% is n int5d$ to cov] ! weave1 h5ce x is m difficult to adult]ate unless entire cotton ?reads 7 wov5 ) ! wor/$1 & ^! are m easily detect$ ?an a mixture ( cotton & wool1 or %oddy 9 wool5 clo?4 ,common examples ( wool5s are flannels1 broadclo? & v5etian clo?2 ( wor/$s1 s]ge1 *allie1 m5's suit+s & voile4 ,mohair is a wor/$ clo? wov5 ( ! wool ( ! ,angora goat1 ) a w>p usually ( cotton or silk4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,b ,c ,d ,,fig4 #b ,! mo/ reliable te/s = a mixture ( cotton & wool are *emical or microscopic ones1 b z ^! are n practical = ! av]age buy]1 o!rs mu/ be s\ght4 ,wool has lu/] & 8k9ks20 ! ends ( ! ?reads are /iff & look r wiry4 ,:5 a sample is c>ri$ home1 burn+ w s]ve to di/+ui% betwe5 ! two4 ,wool burns sl[ly1 *>s1 has an odor ( burnt fea!r1 goes out easily & leaves a crisp a%2 cotton burns quickly ) a flame1 ) little odor & leaves no a%4 ,a little practice 9 break+ ! ?reads w help "o to di/+ui% betwe5 ! two2 ! diff]5ce is n "o t c be easily expla9$1 b ! exp]i5c$ h\sewife kn[s x well4 ,fig4 #b;,a %[s a sample ( all-wool clo?1 ( ! class ( wor/$s :i* co/ sev5ty-five c5ts a y>d4 ,fig4 #b;,b %[s a sample ( clo? ( ! same price1 call$ by ! cl]k1 all-wool1 b :i* on exam9ation 0 f\nd to h only f\r ?reads ( wool to e twelve ?reads ( cotton4 ,fig4 #b;,c %[s ?is same clo? ) ! wool remov$ by /rong alkali1 cau/ic pota%1 leav+ ! cotton4 ,fig4 #b;,d %[s ! wool left :5 ! cotton has be5 ravell$ out1 or has be5 remov$ by a /rong acid solution4 ,fig4 #c %[s a sample ( mohair 9 :i* ! wool has be5 p>tly remov$1 & ! cotton w>p is left4 ,9 ?is case ! price is n high1 & because ( ! "* ( ! clo? ! mixture is a good "o1 light1 smoo?1 & clean4 ,?is clo? is n sold = all-wool1 s is n consid]$ adult]at$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c ,,%oddy ,z has be5 said be=e1 ! dem& = wool5 goods is s mu* great] ?an ! supply t x is necess>y to resort to v>i\s measures to increase ! supply ( clo?4 ,"o me?od is to use ! wool ov] & ov] aga94 ,rags are b\ght up by ! rag man1 sold to ! l>g] deal]1 aga9 to ! 8%oddy0 manufactur] :o cleans !m1 sorts !m1 te>s !m to pieces1 us+ ! be/ all-wool rags to produce fib]s1 :i* are respun & aga9 wov5 ei!r sep>ately1 if ( v good quality1 or mix$ ) new wool or cotton4 ,su* a mat]ial is w>m1 looks well = a "t & has its place1 b mu/ n be b\ght = new wool1 or dem& ! price ( good wool5 clo?4 ,?is indu/ry is enorm\s & %oddy is (t5 f\nd 9 exp5sive novelty mat]ials z well z 9 *eap 8all-wool0 clo?4 ,because ( ! %ortness ( ! fib]s x may be detect$ readily1 :5 us$ alone1 b 9 comb9ation ) good wool x is m difficult4 ,"o class ( %oddy consi/s ( v %ort fib]s1 clipp+s f ! mills1 :i* are work$ into ! surface ( a felt$ clo? aft] x is wov54 ,^! %ort fib]s aft] a "t "w out1 & are f\nd 9 ! bottoms ( coats1 inside ! l9+s1 etc41 leav+ ! surface ( ! clo? ?readb>e4 ,fig4 #d %[s a piece ( %oddy clo?1 sold = all wool at fifty c5ts a y>d4 ,?is clo? w\ld be w>m1 b does n look z well z m exp5sive clo?1 & w n we> z long z new wool4 ,!re is "s cotton mix$ ) ! wool be=e sp9n+1 !re=e x is difficult to detect4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d ,,silk ,silk is frequ5tly kn[n z ! fib] ( luxury4 ,x is ! mo/ exp5sive to cultivate1 ! mo/ beautiful & ! /ronge/ fib]4 ,s9ce x is ! mo/ exp5sive fib] to buy1 & ! dem& = x is s great1 ! temptations to adult]ate are also naturally v great4 ,! long1 /rong1 lu/r\s silk fib] :i* blea*es & dyes beautifully & is f9e z a spid]'s web1 is n to be duplicat$4 ,! be/ grade or 8reel$ silk0 is tak5 f ! cocoon 9 "o cont9u\s ?read :i* may be sev]al hundr$ y>ds long4 ,9 manufactur+ reel$ silk _m defective cocoons are f\nd 9 :i* ! fib]s are n p]fect1 or are brok54 ,! silk f ^! cocoons may be treat$ l a %ort fib] & spun into ?reads v>y+ 9 /r5g? accord+ to ! l5g? ( ! fib]s4 ,?is s-call$ 8spun0 silk has n ! high lu/] nor /r5g? ( 8reel$0 silk1 b is (t5 us$ z w>p ) reel$ silk fill+1 or 9 imitation pongee1 & back ( sat9s1 velvets & 9 _m o!r ways4 ,9 old5 times ! price ( silk 0 mu* great] ?an n[1 b ! mat]ial 0 mu* m durable4 ,silks :i* h be5 laid away = a hundr$ ye>s are /ill 9 fairly good condition4 ,n[ our silks are mu* *eap]1 b ! result is t :5 !y are put away1 ev5 = a few mon?s !y may fall into bits1 & _! we>+ quality c n be comp>$ ) ! good old silks ( long ago4 ,! reason = ?is *ange is n h>d to f9d4 ,! co/ ( raw silk is ab\t ?irty times t ( raw cotton & ! wa/e at lea/ five times t ( cotton4 ,! manufactur] mu/ make up 9 "s way if he is to sell silk at ! prices dem&$ by ! public4 ,silk has a v great ability to absorb dyes & metallic salts )\t app>5tly *ang+ ! quality ( ! mat]ial1 & s9ce dyes & metallic salts are mu* *eap] ?an pure silk1 ! manufactur] makes great use ( ^! mat]ials4 ,load+ is ! common "n = ?is process ( treat+ silk & x is common practice to add ?irty p]c5t ( =eign mat]ial1 j ! p]c5t lo/ by ! silk :5 ! gum is remov$1 :ile x is possible to add two hundr$ fifty or ev5 ?ree hundr$ p]c5t4 ,:5 we buy novelties & d n c>e h[ %ort _! life is to be1 ^! heavily weight$ silks answ] ! purpose v well1 b :5 we wi% = durability & ! silk beg9s to crack & split or to become %9y aft] a few we>+s we realize ! disadvantage ( our mod]n me?ods4 ,practically no silk c be f\nd on ! m>ket entirely free f load+1 b !re is a great diff]5ce 9 ! am\nt pres5t4 ,burn+ is ! simple/ te/ = good silk2 a ?read ( pure silk w burn sl[ly leav+ z x burns a v small am\nt ( crisp a% 9 a ball at ! end ( ! ?read4 ,heavily weight$ silk burns & leaves ! a% 9 ! =m ( ! orig9al ?read2 ?is a% ( c\rse drops to pieces readily4 ,fig4 #e;,a %[s a piece ( taffeta sold = "o doll> a y>d4 ,fig4 #e;,b %[s ! result ( burn+ ! silk4 ,?is a%1 left 9 ! %ape ( ! orig9al sample1 is made up ( metallic salts1 dye/uffs1 etc4 ,a v small p]c5t ( a% w\ld be left f ! silk itself4 ,ano!r me?od ( adult]at+ silk is ) cotton4 ,! fib]s are n spun toge!r "h z ! cotton & wool1 b ! ?reads ( ! two mat]ials are wov5 toge!r4 ,9 sat9s1 velvets & brocades ! cotton is entirely cov]$ by ! silk ?reads on ! surface1 & appe>s z ! back ( ! clo?4 ,9 *eap silks a f9e cotton ?read sometimes =ms ei!r w>p or fill+4 ,pongee is a mat]ial made f ! cocoon ( ! uncultivat$ silk worm2 rajah1 tussah & o!r unev51 co>se mat]ials are f ! same s\rce4 ,^! silks are v /rong1 b d n h a high lu/]4 ,m]c]iz$ cotton looks q silky & is sometimes mix$ ) ^! silks1 or a mat]ial ( m]c]iz$ cotton & spun silk may be sold = pongee1 or ev5 a mat]ial entirely ( m]c]iz$ cotton4 ,,conclusion ,to sum up1 ! adult]ations mo/ likely to be f\nd & ! te/s = !m are z foll[s3 ,,me?od ,,( ,,adult]ation #a4 ,by comb9ation4 ,use ( o!r fib]s ?an ! "o indicat$ by ! "n ( ! mat]ial4 ,example1 cotton 9 wool5s1 cotton 9 l95s1 etc4 #b4 ,by sub/itution4 ,sell+ "o fib] "u ! "n ( an entirely diff]5t "o4 ,example1 m]c]iz$ cotton sold = silk or l954 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,b ,,fig4 #e #c4 ,by increas+ ! weight ( a mat]ial4 a1 ,cottons & l95s ) />*2 b1 silks ) metallic salts & dyes4 #d4 ,by giv+ a f9i% :i* is deceptive4 a1 ,heavy press+ or cal5d]+ an ord9>y cotton to imitate m]c]iz+2 b1 f9i%+ cotton to look l l952 c1 pr9t+ pa/e dots on cotton to produce ! effect ( embroid]$ dott$ swiss4 #e4 ,by use ( made-ov] y>ns4 ,example1 %oddy 9 wool5s1 also addition ( %ort wool1 felt$ 9 surface4 ,,te/s ,,= ,,adult]ation #a4 ,exam9ation ( clo? to see if all ?reads are alike1 & to di/+ui% k9d ( ?read4 #b4 ,exam9ation ( individual ?reads4 ,cotton3 %ort fib]s1 ends appe> fuzzy 9 ?read4 ,wool3 %ort fib]s1 decid$ly k9ky & /iff4 ,silk3 long /raight fib]s ) lu/]2 if spun silk1 fib]s %ort2 ?read looks m l cotton2 breaks m easily ?an reel$ silk4 ,l953 /rong ?reads2 high lu/]2 :5 brok5 ends v unev5 & /raight4 #c4 ,burn+ te/s3 a1 cotton burns quickly ) flame2 b1 wool burns sl[ly1 *>s1 gives (f odor ( burnt fea!rs2 c1 silk burns sl[ly1 leaves small crisp a%1 & :5 weight$ leaves m a%2 d1 l951 simil> to cotton4 #d4 ,l95 if )\t mu* />*1 becomes transluc5t :5 treat$ ) olive oil2 cotton rema9s opaque4 #e4 ,a mixture ( cotton & wool :5 wet1 wr9kles m ?an pure wool4 #f4 ,a c>eful exam9ation ( ! f9i% ( ! mat]ial4 ,obs]ve if alike on bo? sides1 if ! app>5t beauty ( ! mat]ial is due to f9i% or to good quality ( mat]ial4 ,f9ally1 ! be/ grades ( mat]ial are g5]ally :at !y seem to be2 al?\gh ?is does n always hold true 9 silks1 nor 9 mat]ials :]e ! effect is m important ?an ! we>+ quality4 ,exp5sive broadclo?s1 wor/$ suit+s1 exp5sive table l95s1 good cottons1 d n pose = m ?an _! true wor?4 ,x is :5 "o turns to novelties1 to silks & to inexp5sive mat]ials t "o ne$s to be mo/ vigilant4 ,be sure ! inexp5sive is n *eap1 unless y want a mat]ial1 *eap 9 we>+ quality & appe>ance1 z well z 9 co/4 ,,o!r ,,po9ts ,,9 ,,buy+ ,aside f ! "q ( :e!r ! buy] is gett+ ! k9d ( mat]ial %e pays = z to "* ( ! fib]1 !re are o!r ?+s to be consid]$ 9 *oos+ textile fabrics4 ,! weave affects ! appe>ance & (t5 ! we>+ quality ( clo?4 ,a close twill weave makes a firm1 durable mat]ial1 :ile ! loose basket weave gives q a diff]5t effect & is frequ5tly lack+ 9 firmness4 ,! sat9 or sate5 weave makes a beautiful surface especially 9 l95s or silks1 b may cov] up defects 9 ! hidd5 ?reads4 ,fancy weaves 9 cotton novelties1 9 %irt wai/ mat]ials & 9 fancy mulls1 etc41 (t5 leave loose ?reads :i* become soil$ easily & may n be z attractive aft] wa%+4 ,a clo? ) a v heavy cross ?read or fill+1 & a v f9e w>p1 or vice v]sa1 may split because ( ! great diff]5ce 9 ! /r5g? ( ! ?reads4 ,sometimes figures are wov5 9 su* a way t :5 ! clo? is f9i%$ ea* figure has %ort ends ( ?read4 ,= example1 9 weav+ madras curta9 mat]ial1 ! fill+ ?read :i* makes ! figure1 jumps f "o figure to ano!r1 & aft] ! mat]ial leaves ! loom ! loose ?reads are cut (f ( ! back ( ! mat]ial4 ,(t5 ^! %ort pieces wa% out or ! ends become r\gh & fuzzy look+4 ,9 *oos+ a mat]ial f ! l>ge v>iety on ! m>ket ! fir/ ?+ to be det]m9$ is ! use to :i* x is to be put1 !n det]m9e :at is appropriate to t use4 ,! clo? :i* is suitable = a /reet suit is obvi\sly n suit$ to ! p>ty g[n1 nei!r are laces ( dressy wai/s appropriate = work+ clo!s4 ,clo!s t are to be worn con/antly ne$ to be ( mat]ial t w /& frequ5t clean+4 ,9 mat]ials us$ 9 h\se furni%+ c]ta9 ones mu/ be clean$ (t51 & unless "o c af=d to pay frequ5t clean]'s bills1 wa%able mat]ials are bett] = curta9s1 b$-spreads1 table-cov]s1 etc4 ,! co/ is ! next po9t to be consid]$1 & t mu/ necess>ily be det]m9$ by "o's purse4 ,x is n always economy1 h[ev]1 to buy ! inexp5sive ?+s1 =1 z we h se51 ! inexp5sive articles are m likely to be ! *eap ones4 ,) our desire = cont9ual *ange1 our love ( novelty & fad we h become v extravagant4 ,s long z ! fa%ion dem&s new g>m5ts e few mon?s & wom5 attempt to foll[ ! /yles1 !y mu/ *oose inexp5sive mat]ials unless !y h a l>ge am\nt ( money1 & c>e no?+ = we>+ quality4 ,9 ! end1 h[ev]1 ! woman :o buys c>efully1 makes use ( cons]vative /yles :i* d n *ange e few mon?s1 & *ooses h&some mat]ial1 is n only m economically1 b also usually bett] dress$4 ,! hygi5ic prop]ties ( mat]ials %\ld be c>efully consid]$4 ,^? next ! body %\ld be able to c>e = ! p]spiration & ! excretions ( ! sk94 ,wool5 & silk are be/ suit$ by _! physical /ructure to d ?is1 b wool is too w>m & too irritat+ to _m p1 & does n wa% well1 :ile silk is too exp5sive4 ,_m k9ds ( cotton und]we> h be5 manufactur$ :i* by _! /ructure aid 9 absorb+ moi/ure4 ,und]we> knitt$ or wov5 ) me%es conta9+ l>ge enclos$ air spaces is m hygi5ic ?an closely wov5 cotton g>m5ts4 ,! air spaces 9 ! me% mat]ial are non-conductors ( heat1 & also v5tilators4 ,! closely wov5 g>m5t does n all[ a *ange ( air next ! sk9 & becomes clammy :5 moi/4 ,g>m5ts :i* come 9 contact ) ! outside air mu/ be m closely wov5 to keep out ! w9d4 ,two lay]s ( light] weight mat]ial are w>m] ?an "o lay] ( ?ick because ( ! non-conduct+ air betwe54 ,heavy clo!s are bad = ! body because ( ! extra load :i* mu/ be c>ri$ ab\t4 ,f9ally1 9 *oos+ mat]ials1 if "o is to h ! greate/ pleasure f !m & give "o's fri5ds ! greate/ pleasure1 color & design are v important4 ,colors %\ld be suitable to ! use1 & to ! p]son :o is to we> ! mat]ial4 ,bright colors make "o conspicu\s1 & are excit+2 dull ugly colors are depress+1 :ile s(t ri* colors are elegant1 becom+1 & 9 good ta/e4 ,designs %\ld fit ! place 9 :i* !y are to be us$4 ,rugs %\ld be s design$ t !y s]ve z a backgr\nd to ! furniture ( ! room z well z add ri*ness 9 color & "s v>iety4 ,mat]ials :i* are to hang 9 folds %\ld h designs :i* d n dep5d on smoo?ness ( surface 9 ord] t !y may be effective4 ,= clo?+1 designs %\ld be inconspicu\s1 mode/ /ripes1 dots & plaids be+ mo/ successful1 except on v s(t ?9 mat]ials :5 l>g] & less conv5tional designs may be us$4 ,to be an intellig5t buy] x is necess>y !n t ! woman kn[s be=e %e pur*ases a piece ( clo? j :]e x is to be us$1 j :at %e c af=d to pay = x1 :at %e %\ld be able to get = t am\nt ( money & !n be able to tell :e!r ! piece ( clo? %e buys is really :at x is repres5t$ to be4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! ru% to ! b>ga9 c\nt]1 ! enorm\s am\nt ( *eap1 poor mat]ial manufactur$1 & ! great wa/e 9 dress1 all g to prove t !re are _m wom5 :o are n intellig5t buy]s4 ,:5 wom5 dem& a bett] quality ( mat]ials & refuse to buy ! *eap ?+s1 ! manufactur]s w cease to produce wor?less ?+s4 ,p]haps h[ev]1 be=e t day arrives1 ! ?\ghtful work]s ( ! l& w h succe$$ 9 pass+ a pure textile law1 :i* %all d = our clo? :at ! pure food act is do+ = our food supplies2 !n ! hone/ ?\gh ignorant buy] w be protect$1 b x w /ill be h] "p to dem& good1 arti/ic & useful mat]ials4 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcrib]'s note ,m9or punctuation errors h be5 *ang$ )\t notice4 ,spell+ 0 reta9$ z 9 ! orig9al except = ! foll[+ *anges3 8c]ta9 nses1 b0 8c]ta9 uses1 b0