,,my ,,secrets ,,of ,,beauty ,a thing of beauty is a joy forever2 its loveliness increases2 it will never pass into nothingness4 --,,keats ,illustration3 ,,mme4 ,,lina ,,cavalieri ,,my ,,secrets ,,of ,,beauty ,,by ,,mme4 ,,lina ,,cavalieri ,,the ,,most ,,famous ,,living ,,beauty ,including ,more ,than #a1jjj ,valuable ,recipes for ,preparations ,used and ,recommended by ,mme4 ,cavalieri ,herself ,,illustrated ,,with ,,new ,,photographs ,,of ,,mme4 ,,cavalieri ,,and ,,other ,,famous ,,beauties ,illustration ,,published ,,by ,,the ,,circulation ,,syndicate1 ,,inc4 ,,new ,,york ,,city ,copyright by ,star ,company ,copyright1 #aiad1 by ,circulation ,syndicate1 ,inc4 ,,dedicated ,,to ,,every ,,seeker ,,after ,,beauty ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,complexion #aa ,,ii ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,your ,,neck ,,beautiful #dj ,,iii ,,things ,,to ,,do ,,for ,,the ,,eyes1 ,,ears1 ,,and ,,nose #dg ,,iv ,,keeping ,,the ,,hands1 ,,arms ,,and ,,shoulders ,,young #fa ,v ,,massage ,,as ,a ,,beautifier #gd ,,vi ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,for ,,the ,,feet #hj ,,vii ,,the ,,proper ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,mouth ,,and ,,teeth #hi ,,viii ,,duties ,,every ,,woman ,,owes ,,to ,,her ,,hair #ajc ,,ix ,,useful ,,beauty ,,hints ,,for ,,men #abe ,x ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,nails ,,and ,,fingers #abi ,,xi ,,beauty ,,baths #adc ,,xii ,,good ,,health--,,beauty',s ,,foundation #aed ,,xiii ,,how ,,to ,,acquire ,a ,,pleasing ,,voice #age ,,xiv ,,how ,,to ,,improve ,,your ,,figure #aha ,,xv ,,safe1 ,,easy ,,ways ,,of ,,reducing ,,weight #aif ,,xvi ,,how ,,to ,,gain ,,flesh #bag ,,xvii ,,exercises ,,that ,,help ,,make ,,you ,,beautiful #bcj ,,xviii ,,postponing ,,the ,,dread ,,signs ,,of ,,old ,,age #bdh ,,xix ,,how ,,to ,,train ,,your ,,children ,,to ,,be ,,beautiful #bfh ,,xx ,,advice ,,to ,,blondes ,,and ,,brunettes #bga ,,xxi ,,sure ,,aids ,,to ,,beauty #bhb ,,xxii ,,the ,,beauty',s ,,personality ,,and ,,her ,,clothes #cja ,,xxiii ,,odds ,,and ,,ends ,,of ,,beauty ,,culture #caj ,,list ,,of ,,illustrations ,madame ,lina ,cavalieri ,frontispiece ,,facing ,,page ,mary ,garden #ab ,anna ,held #fb ,pauline ,frederick #gh ,maxine ,elliott #abf ,lois ,ewell #adb ,madame ,cavalieri #bch ,kitty ,gordon #bed ,,foreword ,in this volume is presented what we confidently believe to be the most complete collection of authoritative information on the subject of personal beauty and the best methods of acquiring and preserving it ever offered to the public in compact1 handy1 inexpensive form4 ,all the newest and best ways of helping a woman to retain her youthful charm for an indefinite period are clearly described in these pages1 and with them are given more than one thousand tested recipes which will be found of the greatest assistance in attaining the desired end4 ,every statement made in this book is based on long and thorough practical experience2 every recipe has the endorsement of the greatest living authorities on aids to beauty4 ,madame ,lina ,cavalieri herself has followed the advice which she here generously passes on to other women4 ,the preparations for which recipes are given are all ones the famous prima donna herself uses1 and to their use she owes the fact that for so many years she has been acclaimed the most beautiful woman on earth4 ,the woman who owns this book will be freed forever from dependence upon unreliable 8beauty doctors0 and expensive cosmetics of doubtful value4 ,here she has all the best advice the world affords to help her make the most out of the skin1 the hair1 the eyes1 the teeth1 the figure and all the other charms with which ,nature has endowed her4 ,most of the thousand and more recipes this volume contains can be easily prepared at small expense right in your own home4 ,and no one need have the slightest hesitation about using any of them4 ,not only are they personally recommended by ,madame ,cavalieri but they have the endorsement of all the greatest beauty specialists of both ,america and ,europe4 ,great pains has been taken in their selection and any whose value seemed doubtful or which might by any possibility have harmful effects have been rigidly excluded4 ,the world to-day places a higher valuation upon personal appearance than ever before4 ,and this is why a book like this1 which explains just how to make the most of your physical self1 is certain of a warm welcome from the public4 ,,the ,,publishers4 ,,my ,,secrets ,,of ,,beauty ,,chapter ,i ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,complexion ,for every woman--or1 for that matter1 every man--who wants to have and retain a good complexion1 the one thorough toilet of the day should be made in the evening4 ,this done1 the other toilets throughout the day may be brief and more or less perfunctory4 ,the real housecleaning1 particularly of the face and neck1 should take place at night4 ,the reason for this is apparent4 ,the skin has been in contact with the dust and smoke and countless other soiling agents out of doors4 ,at night1 immured in the bedroom and swathed in bed clothes1 there is slight chance of vagrant dust settling on the skin4 ,another reason is that if the day's grime is allowed to remain upon the face or neck1 it becomes imbedded in the pores1 and a part of it1 at least1 is taken into the circulation1 and thus carried through the body4 ,wash the face most thoroughly at night4 ,first1 with a coat of cold cream which may be wiped away after leaving it on for a few minutes4 ,second1 with tepid water and a mild soap4 ,if you use a face cloth1 let it be of soft silk or muslin or cheesecloth1 but personally ,i prefer just the palms of the hands4 ,do not rub the face hard4 ,a hard rubbing loosens the skin1 causes the muscles to sag and makes wrinkles form4 ,last of all1 give the face its cold cream bath4 ,this is indispensable to the person who would have a good complexion4 ,a skin food such as lanolin may be used instead of cold cream for the face bath if preferred4 ,a cold cream that is excellent for softening and cleansing the skin is made as follows3 ,cocoa butter1 #cb grams2 spermaceti1 #cb grams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #afj grams2 white wax1 #af grams4 ,a more elaborate and expensive cream that is also a helpful skin food is compounded as follows3 ,lanolin1 #b ounces2 spermaceti1 ounce2 oil of sweet almonds1 #b ounces2 fresh mutton tallow1 #b ounces1 cocoanut oil1 #b ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 dram2 ,portugal extract1 #b ounces2 oil of neroli1 #aj drops4 ,almond milk is an old-fashioned favorite still in use in some of the best formulae for complexion emollients and bleaches4 ,a good astringent cream that both bleaches and softens the skin is this3 ,almond milk from #ej crushed almonds2 rosewater1 #a pint4 ,if the mixture is not smooth1 it should be strained through a cheesecloth or soft silk before using4 ,in this form it is softening and whitening4 ,with the addition of ounce of alum it is strongly astringent besides4 ,with the cold cream or the skin food massage away the wrinkles made by a hard day4 ,with rotary motion1 massage away from the corners of the eyes to the hair line4 ,in the same way1 with the tips of the fingers1 iron out the lines which concentration has written between the eyebrows4 ,with the tips of the middle fingers1 massage the lines upward from the corners of the lips to the nostrils1 and try to eradicate the ugly little lines in front of the ears by rubbing gently upward4 ,illustration3 ,,mary ,,garden ,the author of 8,my ,secrets of ,beauty0 selects the famous prima donna as one of the best examples of the 8well rounded0 woman4 ,the care of the complexion in ,winter differs considerably from that in ,summer4 ,for example1 to counteract the coarsening1 drying effect of the ,winter winds1 ,i use more than the ,summer quantity of cold cream4 ,winter1 too1 is a greater promoter of wrinkles than ,summer1 because it dries the skin1 and the wrinkled skin is always a dry skin4 ,the following formula will be found a valuable aid when the skin shows a tendency to dryness3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #fj grams2 cocoa butter1 #ab grams2 white wax1 #f grams2 spermaceti1 #ab grams4 ,for a few complexions cocoa butter is an irritant4 ,for these ,i would recommend this cream as more soothing3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #ajj grams2 white wax1 #bj grams2 spermaceti1 #ajj grams2 rosewater1 #aj grams4 ,whatever cream is used it should be well rubbed into the skin1 after which what remains--all that the pores will not take up--should be wiped off with a soft cloth4 ,the skin that is much exposed to the cold air should be especially well fed4 ,in ,winter1 more than ,summer1 the face marred by unsightly red blotches shows its unlovely bent4 ,first1 ,i should try for this internal remedies of a cooling1 laxative nature4 ,sour or buttermilk drunk in large quantities1 say six glasses a day1 is much used at present to that end4 ,it has the effect of cooling the blood and is milder than many such agents4 ,another help in clearing a mottled skin is the complexion mask4 ,there are many mask pastes of various sorts which are admirable for this purpose4 ,from them ,i select this one as the most worthy and effective of all3 ,liquid honey1 #a ounce2 barley meal1 #b ounces2 white of one egg4 ,after thoroughly cleansing the skin at night1 first with cold cream1 then with warm water and a mild soap1 apply the paste1 spreading it smoothly and evenly with the fingers upon the cheeks1 nose and forehead4 ,in the morning add ten drops of tincture of benzoin to a quart of warm water and with this remove whatever paste remains on the skin4 ,it is easy to do the complexion irreparable injury in ,summer4 ,one too long fishing jaunt1 one automobile dash with the skin ill protected against the burning sun2 a too long dawdling on the toasting sands1 and the evil is done4 ,the once beautiful complexion has become a memory4 ,in its place is only a dry1 withered remnant of what was once a fresh1 soft1 rose-like skin4 ,how to prevent such a tragedy to beauty--for no woman was ever beautiful without a good complexion1 and no woman with a good complexion can be less than attractive--,i shall try to tell you4 ,first and last and always1 vigilance4 ,first prepare your skin for an outing4 ,it is best never to use hot water on the skin4 ,but if you insist upon that pernicious habit1 at least do not use it shortly before going out1 for the hot water renders the skin acutely sensitive to any new influence4 ,the wind cuts more deeply into it4 ,the sun's rays burn farther4 ,they reach the danger line to which ,i have referred1 and that really exists4 ,to prepare the skin for its battle with the elements of a long ,summer day1 the face should be cleansed with tepid water and almond meal instead of soap4 ,the action of the almond meal upon the face is soothing and cooling4 ,before going out into the heat dust the face lightly with rice powder1 which will adhere better if a very light coat of cold cream has first been administered4 ,this famous old ,english cream is one of the best for the purpose3 ,cocoa butter1 #b ounces2 lanolin1 #b ounces2 glycerine1 #b ounces2 rosewater1 #c ounces2 elderflower water1 #a ounces4 ,if sweet cream is available1 bathe the face freely with it4 ,if this doesn't quickly allay the burning1 try this cucumber cream3 ,almond oil1 #a ounce2 olive oil1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a ounce2 essence of cucumber1 #b ounces4 ,if1 as may happen in a country resort1 this excellent milk of cucumbers cannot be procured1 follow the face bath of sweet cream with one composed of3 ,slices of one cucumber2 sweet milk1 #a pint4 ,if the case is not hopeless but obstinate1 this 8honey balm0 should relieve the brown hue of tan that follows a deep but not irremediable skin burning3 ,orange flower water1 #c ounces2 strained honey1 #a ounce2 cold cream1 #b ounces2 white almonds 7pounded to paste71 #a ounces4 ,if the hands have suffered equally with the face this lotion is effectual in reducing the unlovely redness3 ,lemon juice1 #a ounce2 strained honey1 #a ounce2 cologne1 #a ounce4 ,should the unusual exposure result in freckles the application with a small sponge or bit of cotton1 of either of these ,i recommend3 ,powdered borax1 dram2 sugar1 dram2 lemon juice1 #a ounce4 ,another application that may be used is made of3 ,muriate of ammonia1 dram2 lavender water1 #a dram2 distilled water1 #d ounces4 ,if the case is less severe1 ,i recommend for freckles this3 ,peroxide of hydrogen1 #a ounce2 ammonia1 #aj drops4 ,these may all be more deftly applied with a camel's-hair brush than in any other way4 ,strawberry water1 which was the bath of some of the court beauties of an extravagant age1 may be used in season by ,american beauties for the freshening of the facial skin discolored by tan or withered by too great exposure or by lack of care after that exposure to sun or wind4 ,it is made thus3 ,crushed strawberries1 #b pounds2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #a pint4 ,before retiring it is well to give the face three baths1 first with pure cold cream to remove the coarser dust2 second1 with tepid1 if possible1 distilled water--if not1 water softened with borax or benzoin--and1 last1 a light coat of cold cream4 ,if the danger line has not been reached1 nor even approached1 these applications should restore the complexion to its former delicacy in a few days4 ,if the case is not hopeless but obstinate1 this paste should relieve the brown hue of tan that follows a deep but not irremediable skin burning4 ,i have given to this1 which ,i have often used after an automobile tour1 the fitting name1 8,honey ,balm03 ,orange flower water1 #c ounces2 strained honey1 #a ounce2 cold cream1 #b ounces2 white almonds 7pounded to paste71 #a ounces4 ,this is one of the cooling creams desirable for use in summer4 ,oil of almonds1 #a pint2 olive oil1 #a ounce2 cucumber juice1 #a pint2 white wax1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a ounce2 cucumber juice 7which has been boiled1 skimmed and strained71 #b ounces4 ,excellent for freckles1 tan and other discolorations is this3 ,sour milk1 #a cupful2 horseradish1 #a teaspoonful4 ,scrape the horseradish into fine shreds and let stand in the sour milk for six hours before using4 ,then wash the face freely in it4 ,fresh buttermilk is a cleansing1 freshening1 tan and freckle removing face bath to be taken at night4 ,this1 too1 is a lotion which has been recommended by many3 ,citrine ointment1 #a dram2 oil of almonds1 #a dram2 spermaceti ointment1 #f drams2 attar of roses1 #c drops4 ,for either freckles or liver spots this has been in many instances curative3 ,solution of ammonia1 #a ounce2 bay rum1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce2 powdered borax1 #a ounce2 glycerine1 ounce2 distilled water1 #aj drops4 ,still another formula for freckles and tan is this1 which has a great popularity3 ,ammonium chloride1 #a dram2 distilled water1 #d ounces4 ,some faces1 otherwise pretty1 are disfigured by a greasy or oily skin in the summer4 ,the need is met by this lotion1 which is at once cleansing1 cooling and drying4 ,it should be used as a face bath twice or oftener a day1 according to need3 ,rosewater1 #e ounces2 alcohol1 ounce2 boric acid1 dram4 ,after using any tan or freckle lotion containing acid1 cool the skin by massage with a pure cold cream4 ,for sunburn ,i would suggest1 as an old and tried remedy3 ,equal parts of oxide of zinc ointment and cosmoline4 ,cooling for the sunburned surfaces is rosewater or a solution of bicarbonate of soda4 ,apply them with a sponge or bit of cotton1 using them repeatedly until the burning sensation disappears4 ,for the removal of freckles these have been recommended after much use3 ,a solution of powdered niter1 or a solution of bicarbonate of soda4 ,these should be applied to the face night and morning4 ,once after motoring on the ,italian ,riviera1 ,i saw some most unwelcome spots on my nose--light1 yellow1 obtrusive--resembling the dots with which a turkey egg is flecked4 ,a chauffeuse sent me this prescription1 which ,i have since used many times1 always successfully3 ,lactic acid1 #d ounces2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 ounce4 ,this also is as efficacious as it is simple3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 juice of lemon4 ,for the excessive and odorous perspiration that troubles many in summer1 ,i recommend this formula for a dusting powder4 ,its use should be preceded by a sponge bath of the affected portions4 ,afterward apply the powder with a soft cloth or powder puff3 ,powdered alum1 ounce2 powdered boric acid1 ounce2 oil of eucalyptus1 #bj drops2 subnitrate of bismuth1 #a ounce2 oil of verbena or orange1 #e drops4 ,for a refreshing bath in mid-summer this lotion1 either sprinkled freely into the bath or splashed upon the body by handfuls immediately after leaving the bath1 is my choice among a score of such recipes3 ,strong vinegar1 #bjj grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #bjj grams2 tincture of red roses1 #bjj grams4 ,my favorite cold cream is this1 which ,i have prepared under my eye3 ,lanoline1 #aj grams2 oil of almonds1 #ajj grams2 rosewater1 #ajj grams2 white wax1 #e grams2 spermaceti1 #e grams2 oil of rose geranium1 #e grams4 ,melt the lanoline and white wax and spermaceti4 ,add the oil of almonds4 ,warm again and add the rosewater1 little by little1 stirring all the time4 ,this is my favorite face powder3 ,best talcum powder1 pound2 boracic acid1 dram2 calcine magnesia1 #a dram2 powdered ,florentine orris root1 #a-e ounce4 ,this skin lotion ,i have used in the summer with much benefit to my complexion4 ,i have found it cooling and healing3 ,bitter almond water1 #f ounces2 orange flower water1 #d ounces2 glycerine1 #b ounces2 boracic acid1 #a dram4 ,this is excellent for sunburn3 ,sweet milk1 #a teacupful2 juice of #a lemon4 ,squeeze the juice of the lemon into the milk and let it stand in a cool place until it curdles4 ,on retiring apply the mixture to the face with a silk sponge or a bit of cotton4 ,a face bath every night of buttermilk is helpful4 ,like the preceding it should be washed off with tepid water after it has been on the face for a half hour4 ,if the sunburn is deep and obstinate better try one of the milk baths several times a day4 ,another good treatment for sunburn is the application of a stiff paste made of ,fuller's earth and rosewater4 ,this is a cooling face lotion1 preventive and cure as well of sunburned skin3 ,orange flower water1 #b ounces2 rosewater1 #b ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce2 borax1 #a drams4 ,for freckles this simple preparation is one of the best ,i have ever known4 ,horseradish root1 #a ounce2 borax 7powdered71 #b drams2 hot water1 #a pint4 ,this more complex mixture is effective for blackheads and tan as well as freckles3 ,ammonia water1 #a ounce2 bay rum1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce2 powdered borax1 #a ounce2 glycerine1 ounce2 distilled water1 #aj ounces4 ,for the cornerstone of the care of my complexion ,i depend upon the body bath4 ,we who would be beautiful get many hints from our physician1 who is himself not at all beautiful1 but who1 if we obey him1 can make us so4 ,he talks about 8local treatment0 and 8general treatment10 and he tells you that in most cases general treatment is far more thorough than local4 ,that is the reason that ,i depend upon the body bath more than anything else for my care of the complexion4 ,it is general treatment1 while massage and the application of lotions and creams are local treatment4 ,both are needful1 but the daily body bath is indispensable4 ,to make the bath tonic stimulant and agreeable ,i have made many experiments4 ,the most successful ,i have found to be this3 ,to a tub half full of water add one pound of table salt and one pint of violet ammonia4 ,the bath should be prepared ten minutes before one enters it1 for the salt should be thoroughly dissolved and the ammonia should have been thoroughly mixed with the bath4 ,this ,i vary by the use of one pound of sea salt and half a pint of aromatic vinegar4 ,these preparations being of an astringent nature should not be used every day4 ,three times a week are enough for their tonic effect4 ,for a soothing bath ,i leave off the salt and pour into the tub3 ,one ounce of tincture of benzoin and two bath pastilles1 scented to your taste1 but never colored4 ,this is the way ,i take it4 ,as soon as ,i rise in the morning ,i plunge into my tepid bath4 ,the temperature ,i take myself1 to be sure that my maid has made no mistake4 ,when the thermometer which ,i thrust into the water registers about #ih degrees ,fahrenheit ,i am satisfied4 ,if higher1 it is too warm4 ,if lower1 it is too cold4 ,i permit myself just twenty minutes in the tub4 ,more than that is weakening4 ,while in the tub ,i play about as joyfully as a young porpoise4 ,i plunge and flounder and toss up a shower of water with my hands2 for to lie lazily in a tub of water is to invite rheumatism and neuralgia4 ,i rub upon the brush quantities of the purest scented soap ,i can get4 ,i try first this1 then that soap4 ,i am always trying to find something ,i like better than the last4 ,i scrub my body vigorously--as vigorously as the women of the ,loire pound their clothes upon the stones on the river4 ,i rise1 streaming with rills of soapy water1 and take a cold shower bath upon my shoulders4 ,perhaps ,i use the hose attached to the bath4 ,perhaps ,i catch the water as it flows from the cold faucet in my hands and throw it over my shoulders4 ,perhaps my maid dips a sponge in the cold water and dabs the upper part of my body quickly with it4 ,then out of the tub ,i spring upon my bath mat and give to myself1 or my maid gives me1 a quick rub with eau de cologne4 ,thus the three purposes of my bath are fulfilled4 ,the warm water is cleansing4 ,no one but an ,englishman believes that a cold tub cleanses the body4 ,it merely galvanizes it4 ,to be clean we must use warm or hot water1 and hot water weakens the bather4 ,from the tepid water ,i am clean4 ,it has left the pores open as so many hungry mouths4 ,the dash of cold water closes them4 ,it shocks and stimulates the skin1 making the blood1 which has rushed to the centers of the body1 bound back again to the surface4 ,the eau de cologne rubbed slowly opens the sealed pores again4 ,then comes the fourth and final stage of my bath4 ,it is the exercise4 ,the exercise may be running about my bedroom a dozen times1 taking the sun bath4 ,the body is too much clothed4 ,this is the only time that it ever drinks in the sunlight4 ,to take the sun bath at any other time would be dangerous2 but immediately after the tub it is beneficial4 ,if the day be a cloudy one ,i take1 instead of the sun bath1 my breathing exercises4 ,twenty-five times ,i raise my arms slowly in front of me until they are stretched straight and high over my head4 ,then slowly ,i drop them again heavily1 as though my hands were of lead1 at my sides4 ,this at a distance of about three feet from the open window4 ,i am wrapped in a woolen bathrobe4 ,always a woolen bathrobe4 ,thus for the general treatment4 ,now for the local4 ,i sit in my dressing chair1 which has a back reaching halfway to my shoulders4 ,if the back were higher it would prevent a free movement of my body when ,i brush my hair or massage my face4 ,while ,i have been in the tub ,i have not washed my face4 ,it is now to have its first bath4 ,the bath is still not a liquid one4 ,it is of cold cream4 ,i give you here one of my favorite recipes3 ,rosewater1 #ejj grams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #ejj grams2 white beeswax1 #bj grams2 spermaceti1 #bj grams2 oil of rose1 #c grams4 ,all these articles should be absolutely pure4 ,if you do not trust your druggist1 send them to a chemist to be analyzed4 ,it is expensive1 but it never pays to economize in the complexion4 ,let me tell you how to prepare the cold cream3 ,place the beeswax and the spermaceti in a steamer4 ,the steamer should not be placed upon the stove1 for the fire would be too harsh for it and would taint the cream with its odors4 ,place the steamer1 instead1 in a pan of hot water and let the mixture be gently heated4 ,with a long-handled wooden spoon stir in slowly the oil of sweet almonds4 ,drop the rosewater1 little by little1 into the mixture and stir again4 ,when it is thoroughly mixed1 pour it into a stone jar or a china vessel1 and when it has cooled add three drops of oil of rose4 ,if you use the oil of rose before the mixture has cooled1 the perfume will evaporate4 ,you will have when you have done this an ounce less than a pound1 or fifteen ounces1 of absolutely pure cold cream1 which will last for many months if not wasted4 ,i massage my face sitting before the mirror of my dressing table4 ,this1 ,i have found1 is far better than the lazy way of massaging it while in a reclining position4 ,i want light for massage4 ,i want a stream of it over my shoulder1 my left shoulder preferably1 falling upon the mirror and showing me any line that ,i might have acquired since the morning before4 ,sitting there before the mirror ,i give my face vigorous inspection4 ,i mercilessly scrutinize it4 ,wherever there is the slightest tracery upon the smooth surface1 upon that spot ,i concentrate4 ,i massage my face for ten minutes1 always keeping in mind the purpose of the massage4 ,that is1 that wrinkles are caused by defective circulation in one spot1 and that the way to remove them is to increase the circulation in that spot4 ,sending a fresh supply of blood to the sunken region will tend to fill out and plump it4 ,therefore1 ,i concentrate on the region from the corners of the lips to the nostrils1 that region where the ugly diagonal lines come and hint of ill temper or illness or old age2 on the space between the eyebrows where the lines of worry form2 on the area about the outer corners of the eyes1 an area corrugated by too much laughter2 all these and the rest of the face ,i massage by quick1 light pats of the cushions of the ends of the fingers--light1 but firm4 ,always with a motion round and round4 ,a lengthwise motion causes the muscles to sag and pulls the skin loose from the muscles4 ,it is very bad4 ,after the rotary movement ,i go over the face with quick1 light1 but stinging slaps4 ,with a square of thin1 soft linen ,i remove any surplus of grease that has not been absorbed in the pores4 ,for the skin that becomes overheated and looks feverish after massage1 this cooling1 soothing lotion may be used3 ,extract of violet1 #cej grams2 extract of rose1 #ce grams2 tincture of orris1 #hj grams4 ,dashed upon the face after the morning massage1 it is deliciously cooling and refreshing4 ,if you do not care for the liquid face bath1 fluffing daintily over the face a powder puff dipped in rice powder is sufficient4 ,to the window ,i go1 hand mirror in hand1 for a further inspection before applying the rice powder4 ,i see1 perhaps1 acne1 a bit of what you in this country call 8blackhead10 at the side of my nose4 ,i hasten to remove it4 ,how8 ,not by pressing it out4 ,no1 no4 ,that leaves an ugly hole in the skin4 ,it is a mutilation of the face4 ,no2 ,i search for a match or a wooden toothpick4 ,then ,i take from my toilet table one of two preparations--each is good3 ,rose water1 wineglass2 peroxide of hydrogen1 wineglass4 ,shake well in a glass4 ,dip the match into the mixture and press the dampened end upon the blackhead4 ,it does not remove it1 but cleanses its color to white4 ,or ,i use this1 which ,i think is milder3 ,rosewater1 #b-c wineglass2 ammonia1 #a-c wineglass4 ,shake well together in a tumbler4 ,dip the end of the toothpick or match in it and use as other preparation4 ,like the other this cleanses without removing the acne4 ,if my plans for the day include a railway journey or an automobile spin1 ,i prepare my complexion for the ordeal4 ,before going out ,i massage the face again with cold cream and dust it once more with rice powder4 ,this fortifies the face for the whirlwind of smoke or dust it encounters4 ,when ,i return1 to thoroughly cleanse the face1 ,i steam it4 ,into my stationary wash bowl ,i pour two quarts of boiling water and one ounce of tincture of benzoin4 ,i bend forward and place my face as close to this as possible4 ,i wrap about my head a towel and swathe the towel--a big1 ,turkish one--about my shoulders and the edge of the bowl1 so that no steam can escape4 ,so ,i remain until ,i feel that my face drips with perspiration and until ,i am nearly suffocated by steam4 ,then1 sitting up straight1 ,i dab one of the linen squares about my face and cool it by a hand bath of eau de cologne4 ,or1 if the journey has been taken in summer1 and ,i am tanned or freckled in consequence1 ,i apply this3 ,one wineglass full of rosewater2 fifteen drops peroxide of hydrogen4 ,i bathe the face with this preparation and leave it on the skin for fifteen minutes1 then remove it by massaging the face with the cold cream for which ,i have given a prescription1 or with rosewater4 ,the peroxide is drastic1 and should only be used in emergencies4 ,and now the day is passed and ,i am ready to retire4 ,again ,i think of my complexion4 ,for the first time that day ,i really wash my face4 ,first1 it has its bath of soap and water4 ,i use plenty of soap1 but make a lather of it in the bowl1 instead of placing it directly on my face4 ,plunging my hands into the soapy water1 ,i bathe my face with the palms of my hands4 ,never do ,i use anything else4 ,a sponge or a cloth is too harsh4 ,there is nothing softer than the palms of a woman's hands4 ,they are softer than silk1 and because they are the softest objects ,i know ,i bathe the delicate skin of the face with them4 ,after the warm water face bath ,i rinse the bowl and the face with cool1 not cold1 water4 ,cold water is too severe4 ,then1 again1 the ten minutes of massage1 with the cold cream4 ,then to bed4 ,i feel that ,i have done for my complexion the duty ,i owe it4 ,i owe it but one more1 to sleep for eight hours in a room where the windows are as wide open as possible1 my bed being out of the draught and myself well covered with blankets1 for to be cold is to commit a crime against the complexion4 ,one other precaution ,i may take if the morning inspection has revealed that there are pimples on the face4 ,it is a remedy1 most simple1 but efficacious4 ,in the morning bath a handful of starch4 ,before retiring a paste spread over the face and made thus3 ,one tumbler half full of water4 ,the remainder filled with starch4 ,stir to a thick paste4 ,every woman who gives her complexion the right care has to spend many hours at her dressing table4 ,this should be low1 so that you can sit before it with comfort4 ,it should be wide1 and long1 and flat1 so that it may hold all of those accessories of the toilet which a woman wants within reach as she sits before her mirror4 ,it should have a large mirror1 and a good one1 a just mirror1 but not a merciful one1 that will reveal every blemish1 but will not exaggerate it4 ,the faults of our faces trouble us enough without being exaggerated by our mirrors4 ,money spent for a good mirror will yield you a good return in honestly showing you how you look4 ,if you know exactly how you look1 you can build upon that foundation of knowledge a new and better appearance4 ,being sure that your mirror is reliable place it where it will have the best light in the room4 ,this should be opposite1 if possible1 but certainly near to the window4 ,the best light for writing is the best light for dressing4 ,the light should fall over the left shoulder4 ,arrange your electric lights1 or candles1 or lamps1 or gas jets1 whatever are your lighting facilities1 so that the light will fall in that direction4 ,don't dress by a poor light any more than you would read or write by a poor light4 ,the mirror should be as large as possible and should be adjustable4 ,attached to supports on the table it should be easily swung back and forth1 according to the angle of view you wish to get upon yourself4 ,even if the table be of the plainest sort1 of home manufacture1 the table and mirror frame should be white4 ,the effect of daintiness and cleanliness is given by a white table and mirror frame4 ,spots and stains can be more easily removed from it4 ,some young women have a fancy for draping their dressing tables in muslin or silk tied back with ribbons1 or in silk finished by tassels of the same shade1 each to match the curtains at the windows and the draperies of the bed4 ,personally ,i prefer the white painted or enameled dressing table to any other4 ,draperies are elegant1 but besides their elegance ,i always see their other significance--that of dust traps4 ,in furnishing rooms ,i try to put the money into rich woods and rugs1 and shun draperies4 ,if the owner's means permit it a duplex or triple mirror is better than a single one4 ,i would allow the young woman at her toilet literally to see herself as others see her4 ,she would study her profile and note whether her cheeks were growing too plump or too thin4 ,she could see whether the line of her coiffure is as becoming to the sides as in front4 ,she could study her shoulders and learn whether they are too lean and need fattening1 or too fat and require thinning4 ,having once dressed before a duplex or triple mirror you will set about getting one4 ,but if yours is a good single mirror you can still make your toilet very satisfactorily with the aid of a hand mirror4 ,this will in a little longer time enable you to scrutinize your profile and back successively1 instead of seeing all three views of your head at once4 ,on most dressing tables we see a brush and comb4 ,this is the worst possible place for them4 ,perhaps they are there merely for ornament1 to complete a handsome ivory1 or silver1 or gold set and give the spectator a sense of the completeness of the table furnishings4 ,but the comb and brush that are in use should be carefully kept in a drawer of the dressing table or in a toilet closet1 or in one of the medicine chests with which bathrooms are now supplied4 ,after using them1 and before putting them away1 be sure to cleanse them4 ,if you neglect this your combing and brushing might almost as well not have been done1 for the dust in your hair has merely been shifted to your comb and brush1 and unless removed by cleansing1 will be merely transferred again to the hair4 ,a brush can be cleaned by rubbing it briskly upon a towel4 ,a comb can be wiped thus or with a piece of tissue paper4 ,but they should be dipped every fortnight at least in soapy water1 into which a teaspoonful of ammonia has been sprinkled4 ,the toilet table should be furnished also with a tray or box containing the manicure utensils4 ,the orange wood stick should be ready for cleansing the nails and pushing back the skin that is anxious to encroach upon the nails4 ,in a drawer there should be a package of medicated cotton4 ,in a flask on the toilet table there should be a little peroxide of hydrogen4 ,this not to 8touch up the hair10 but to serve two worthier purposes4 ,the orange wood stick wrapped round with a bit of the cotton and dipped into the peroxide--or better1 the peroxide poured upon it--will quickly cleanse the end of the nail that has been darkened by dust4 ,the peroxide is also valuable for a gargle1 or to give the mouth one of the frequently necessary baths4 ,in one of the little silver or ivory or enameled boxes1 of which a toilet table cannot have too many1 there should be a little powdered pumice stone4 ,when the daily scrutiny reveals dark stains upon or between the teeth1 apply this pumice stone by dipping an orange wood stick or a hard round toothpick into it and gently rubbing with them the stained surface4 ,never use a toothpick for this purpose1 for this would scratch the tooth and erode the enamel4 ,one of the toilet bottles on my dressing table ,i always keep filled with rosewater4 ,this is soothing when the face is fevered1 and is always grateful and healing to the skin4 ,in another bottle ,i keep a strong toilet vinegar to inhale or to sprinkle about my neck to revive me when ,i am fatigued4 ,this vinegar beauties of the time of ,louis ,,xv used to brighten their complexions by sprinkling it upon their faces when they were fatigued or indisposed4 ,it is composed of3 ,honey1 #f ounces2 vinegar made of white wine1 #a quart2 isinglass1 #c drams2 nutmeg1 ounce2 shredded red sandalwood1 #a dram4 ,place all these in a bain marie and allow the mixture to simmer1 but not boil1 for a half-hour4 ,cool1 and strain through silk or cheesecloth4 ,it is well to use this lotion after giving the face a bath of cream or of warm water4 ,it is an excellent preparation for an evening toilet1 but is too strong to leave on the skin over night4 ,this also is agreeable3 ,rosewater1 #a quart2 tincture of opopanax1 #bj grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #bj grams2 tincture of myrrh1 #bj grams2 essence of lemon1 #h grams4 ,in one of the little boxes ,i keep also these pastilles to freshen the mouth that has grown feverish3 ,pulverized licorice1 #g drams2 vanilla sugar1 #c drams2 gum arabic1 #e drams4 ,this1 if there be a tendency to sores in the membranes of the mouth1 will allay them and purify the mouth3 ,oxide of zinc1 #fj grains2 spermaceti ointment1 #a ounce2 attar of rose1 #b drops4 ,a powder box or jar should always be kept tightly closed to keep out intruding dust that might easily slip beneath a carelessly placed lid4 ,this powder1 recommended by the famous ,dr4 ,vaucaire1 is admirable3 ,rice flour1 #c ounces2 rice starch1 #c ounces2 carbonate of magnesia1 #a ounces2 powdered boric acid1 ounce2 orris root1 ounce2 essence of bergamot1 #ae drops2 essence of citron1 #h drops4 ,no toilet table is complete without a nasal atomizer to be used night and morning1 if you desire1 but certainly whenever a cold approaches or is in progress4 ,this should be filled with strong salt water or borax water in the proportions of3 ,water1 #b ounces2 borax1 ounce4 ,your dressing table should be supplied with the creams and other remedies which personal experience has taught you are best suited for your skin4 ,one of my favorite face creams was the invention of the famous ,queen ,elizabeth of ,hungary4 ,it is made like this3 ,oil of rosemary1 ounce2 oil of lavender1 #b drams2 oil of petit grain1 #cj drops2 tincture of tolu1 #d drams2 orange flower water1 pint2 rectified spirits of wine1 pint4 ,mme4 ,sarah ,bernhardt long used this skin tonic4 ,it was adapted to that wonderfully preserved woman's naturally moist and oily skin4 ,for a skin that is dry and inclined to eruptive blemishes it might prove irritating4 ,it was composed of3 ,boiling water1 #a quart2 sea salt1 #e ounces2 alcohol1 pint2 spirits of camphor1 #b ounces2 spirits of ammonia1 #b ounces4 ,this1 used by the beauties of the deposed ,sultan's harem1 gave a complexion said to be the most beautiful in ,europe3 ,sweet almond oil1 #d ounces2 white wax1 #cbj grains2 spermaceti1 #cbj grains2 powdered benzoin1 #ajj grains2 tincture of ambergris1 #fj grains2 pulverized rice1 #cbj grains4 ,adelina ,patti1 whose complexion has survived her voice1 was long presumed1 because of someone's misquotation of her words1 to never use soap4 ,the truth is1 as ,i very well know1 that she used a mild soap every night to wash her face before retiring4 ,she insists that her face could not be really clean without it4 ,during the day she cleanses it from dust by the use of any pure cold cream that is available4 ,mrs4 ,langtry1 too1 is an advocate of soap for the complexion4 ,a pure1 simple soap she uses at least once a day1 sometimes oftener4 ,turkish women believe in the free use of soap4 ,it was a princess1 wife of the physician of the present ,sultan1 who gave me this recipe for a soap that will cleanse and soften and whiten the skin4 ,the women of the harem regard it as the first aid to a beautiful complexion3 ,shave very fine one pound of white olive 7,castile7 soap4 ,place in a porcelain kettle1 covering it with cold water4 ,when the soap has been softened by the heat and mixed with the water stir into it one-half pound of oatmeal4 ,mix this well4 ,when thoroughly blended take it off the stove and when the mixture has cooled1 form with the hands soap balls as large as a walnut4 ,or the soap can be used warm in its liquid state4 ,this face lotion is a favorite of the harem3 ,juice of #c lemons2 glycerine1 #ej grams2 cologne water1 #aj grams4 ,egyptian women believe that the face should be bathed three times a day with hot water4 ,the ,chinese women1 singularly1 produce the same effect of a smooth skin by the use of cold face baths4 ,the ,american habit of cleansing the face simply by cold cream had its origin in ,india1 where women cleanse the face with vegetable oils4 ,a princess of the ,khedive's court in ,egypt told me that hot water ablutions1 followed by an application of this liquid1 would keep any skin fair and smooth4 ,certainly the clear brown of her complexion was a recommendation of the habit4 ,the recipe is this3 ,rose water1 #ajj grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #aj grams4 ,the women of ,china1 ,turkey and ,egypt have faith in the efficacy of the juice of the beet4 ,while in all those countries it is used as a paint many of the women have told me that they bathe their faces in it for the tonic effect of what they term the blood of the beet4 ,they then remove the stain with tepid water4 ,dust is one of the worst enemies of beauty4 ,it settles in a dim1 dingy veil upon the face1 causing it to look ill kept1 in a word1 dirty4 ,to keep the face cleansed from dust keep always a bottle of olive oil and a companion bottle of witch hazel on your dressing table or toilet shelf4 ,before going out pass a bit of cotton or a piece of soft linen that has been moistened in the oil over the face4 ,protect the face further by dusting it with rice powder4 ,returning from out of doors remove the powder and dust by washing the face with yet more olive oil applied in the same way4 ,the danger of the olive oil turning the skin yellow--for that fear exists in many minds influenced by the adage 8,yellow makes yellow0--can be removed by adding to two ounces of olive oil1 one half ounce of almond oil and twenty drops of tincture of benzoin4 ,before retiring the face should have another of these oil baths1 unless you prefer to use the cold cream which is more unwieldy and so less quickly cleanses4 ,strong salt water or a mixture of bicarbonate of soda in the proportions of a teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda to a glassful of water1 are admirable throat cleansers4 ,to keep the nails guiltless of the gray or black rim that so offends the sight1 it is not enough to wrap cotton about the point of an orange stick and remove the accumulated dust4 ,the hands must be washed often1 even though not soiled1 to remove the dust from beneath the nails4 ,and if the nails have become ragged beneath the edge1 which causes the dust to thickly and obstinately collect there1 thrust them into soap jelly into which you have poured a half dozen drops of ammonia1 or into a cake of soap well softened by lying in the water and allow this to remain under the nails for a few minutes to do the work of cleansing4 ,perhaps the skin of your face is very pale1 as though every drop of blood had been drained from it1 and the fact that your stock of vigor is below par is shown by the dry texture and loose condition of your skin4 ,refresh it by giving it a cologne bath4 ,pour a few drops of cologne over a piece of gauze and pat the face lightly with it4 ,this will coax the blood quickly to the surface4 ,or soak a square piece of flannel in olive oil and place it over the face4 ,the skin absorbs this oil1 and in a short time looks much fresher4 ,should you1 despite your tired1 bloodless aspect1 have to be seen in public1 bathe the face in tepid water1 using handfuls of almond meal1 wet with a few drops of benzoin instead of soap4 ,then dash cold water upon the face4 ,this soon calls back the color that has forsaken the visage4 ,many ,englishwomen follow the sensible practice of 8giving the face a drink40 ,for proof of the efficacy of this carry to your bathroom a drooping1 dying plant4 ,turn upon it with the rubber spray a shower of cool water4 ,instantly the fainting plant revives4 ,just as grateful as was this plant for its needed draught is the skin that is parched1 in the first stage of the dreaded1 withering process1 for its 8drink40 ,the ,english woman closes her eyes1 holds her breath and thrusts her face deep into a bowl of cool water4 ,she keeps it thus submerged as long as she is able4 ,then1 raising her head1 she breathes deeply and again thrusts her face into the water4 ,she repeats this face drink five or six times1 keeping her face in the water as long as her suspended breath will permit4 ,wiping the moisture off with a soft cloth1 she is amazed to see the response of her complexion to the treatment4 ,her skin seems transformed from a brownish white parchment1 crossed and criss-crossed by the faint etchings that portend wrinkles1 to a smooth pink and white silken surface4 ,your skin should be one of the livest things in your entire makeup1 yet it is that part of you which oftenest looks lifeless4 ,a 8dead0 skin1 as specialists know it1 is pale and withered looking4 ,it is seamed with fine lines and looks absolutely devoid of moisture4 ,there are many methods of remedying this regrettable appearance1 which adds many years to a woman's apparent age1 and which must1 by some means1 be avoided4 ,the fundamental remedy is a change of diet4 ,a father's advice in a recent play1 8,eat two apples and drink a glass of water before going to bed0 was laughed at as old-fashioned1 yet there is no better beauty rule1 having the skin in mind4 ,it gives nature prompt and powerful aid in cleansing the interior of our bodies1 and without this unclogged interior there can be no clear1 live skin4 ,a mottled1 pimpled skin is an infallible sign of an unclean interior4 ,but the apples eaten at night are not enough4 ,drink lemon juice slightly diluted with water in the morning4 ,the juice of an entire lemon pressed into the glass and diluted with the same quantity of water will cleanse the stomach and aid in clearing the skin4 ,a remedy for a dead looking mottled skin is a teaspoonful of grape juice with the same quantity of olive oil night and morning4 ,a ,french remedy for a faded skin is to eat a small plateful of water cress with salt every day4 ,the beauties of the harems of ,constantinople rely upon any green salad eaten at breakfast with much salt for the same purpose4 ,sometimes these internal remedies must be supplemented by external aids4 ,one of the best is to moisten coarse cornmeal with milk and1 filling the hands with it1 scrub the face gently yet with vigor4 ,the friction opens the pores and relieves the muddy looking skin of the poison which has choked them4 ,a woman whose skin at fifty is as fresh as a girl's told me that she would as lief retire without saying her prayers as without ironing her face with ice4 ,this causes the blood to flow to the surface1 refreshing and feeding the skin4 ,cold cream is needful for most complexions but not for every one4 ,a good test of your needs is to pat cold cream into the skin and note whether it quickly absorbs it4 ,if so the skin is hungry and requires daily feeding4 ,cocoanut oil1 if secured in its purest state is an admirable skin food4 ,olive oil feeds the skin well but there is a deep rooted objection to its too frequent use because it is charged with making the skin yellow4 ,the owner of one of the best complexions ,i know1 a lovely ,french woman1 feeds her skin by nightly baths of the following3 ,olive oil1 #c ounces2 almond oil1 ounce2 benzoin1 ounce4 ,in this case the olive oil's tendency to make the skin yellow1 if such a tendency lies in this greatly remedial oil1 is neutralized by the presence of the benzoin1 which is a whitener4 ,the benzoin has still another office useful to those whose skins have become flabby4 ,it is an astringent drawing the relaxed skin up into the desired tightness4 ,primarily the cause of most facial blemishes is indigestion4 ,to remove an effect1 one should always try first to remove the cause4 ,most women have some form of indigestion1 and it is due to one or both of two bad habits4 ,one is eating harmful things4 ,the other is not drinking enough water4 ,here are ten things ,i beg women never to eat3 ,sausages1 dried fish1 pies1 bonbons1 puddings1 ice cream1 beef1 except when well roasted1 pork1 especially ham1 oysters1 unless one is absolutely certain of their freshness1 hot bread1 as usually made in ,america4 ,i am opposed to the practice of drinking hot water4 ,instead of being an aid to digestion1 it is a hindrance4 ,granted after a heavy dinner1 when the sense of overfulness oppresses us1 a cup of hot water1 slowly sipped1 aids digestion4 ,but this should be used only in emergencies4 ,the regular habit of drinking a great deal of hot water is harmful1 for when the stomach is flooded with it the gastric juices go on strike4 ,finding the intruders there they refuse to do their work and retire4 ,and the hot water is left to do the work1 ineffectively and alone4 ,so the hot-water habit seems to me a distinctly bad one4 ,light foods1 as chicken1 fresh fish1 beans1 spinach and beets1 containing iron1 and stewed fruit1 slowly eaten and well masticated1 are excellent for the complexion4 ,three quarts of water a day should be drunk to keep one well1 which state a good complexion always follows4 ,drink three tumblerfuls on rising1 and while you are about your morning toilet4 ,sip1 do not gulp1 it4 ,if you are not thirsty1 drink it anyway4 ,that morning bath for the stomach is imperative4 ,at each meal it is permissible to drink one glass of water1 slowly sipping it4 ,for the work of cleansing the stomach ,i should advise a half teaspoonful of soda taken in a wine glass of water every morning4 ,if the disorder is very pronounced ,i should repeat the dose after each meal for three or four days4 ,bicarbonate of soda1 like other good things1 may become a bad thing if used in excess4 ,i am grateful to the ,paris pharmacist who gave me this warning4 ,pulverized charcoal is also an excellent corrective for the stomach which is tired or rebellious4 ,one teaspoonful every morning and one after each meal is as good as a broom in the stomach4 ,large1 red splotches appear upon the face sometimes1 seeming to try to burn their way out4 ,this literally they are trying to do4 ,an excess of uric acid causes this condition1 and it is best to consult a physician about a cure1 for it is the parent of rheumatism4 ,if a consultation is not convenient1 then diet1 diet1 diet4 ,eat no more fruit in the morning4 ,eat it only at noon and night4 ,let the breakfast be most simple1 of some coarse cereal1 or crusts of coarse bread2 and avoid rare meats1 especially beef4 ,but a beauty complains that there are spots on her face and yet she must shine at a ball to-morrow4 ,there is no time for diet1 for consulting a physician1 for any of the thorough roads by which one arrives at the goal of a good complexion4 ,what she does must be quickly done4 ,very well1 then4 ,a pimple mars the curve of her lovely chin4 ,what shall be done8 ,use acetone4 ,acetone is a colorless1 ethereal liquid4 ,it has been used chiefly to dissolve fat and resins4 ,it is effective for asthma4 ,under the form of a fifty per cent4 solution1 with two per cent4 of iodide of potassium1 it has been much used in hay fever and similar irritable conditions of the respiratory tract4 ,into a one-ounce bottle of acetone dip the wooden end of a match and press it upon the pimple4 ,then with a silk sponge or bit of absorbent cotton saturated with alcohol press the spot to disinfect it and neutralize the acetone4 ,another of the hasty remedies which ,i would recommend is3 ,white zinc1 #a ounce2 a pure cold cream1 #a ounce4 ,mix these thoroughly together and apply with a bit of cotton cloth to the pimple4 ,for blackheads1 ,i have successfully used an entire face bath of a four per cent4 solution of borax1 wiping it off soon after and giving it a second bath of rosewater to soften the skin4 ,an ointment prescribed by a great ,french physician1 whose specialty was treatment of the skin1 is made up of the following ingredients3 ,ergotine1 #c grams2 oxide of zinc1 #g grams2 vaseline1 #cj grams4 ,another that is quickly efficacious is3 ,precipitate of sulphur1 #a dram2 tincture of camphor1 #a dram2 glycerine1 #a dram2 rosewater1 #d ounces4 ,a third1 that is more agreeable in its action than the last1 consists of3 ,bicarbonate of soda1 #cf grains2 distilled water1 #h ounces2 essence of roses1 #f drops4 ,i have seen pimples removed by a half dozen applications of bicarbonate of soda1 dampened slightly1 and placed with the tip of the finger upon the irritated surface4 ,another simple remedy for splotches or pimples is this3 ,bicarbonate of soda1 #cf grains2 glycerine1 #a dram2 spermaceti ointment1 #a ounce4 ,this should be applied with absorbent cotton1 allowed to remain on the affected part for a quarter of an hour1 and removed4 ,for the blotched condition of the skin1 which is caused by sun in summer and wind in winter1 if the skin be delicate1 ,i recommend this3 ,borax1 dram2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 elder flower water1 #g ounces4 ,steaming is often recommended for cleansing the face4 ,i do not use it because ,i think its tendency is to make the skin too delicate1 to detach it from the muscles and to cause premature wrinkles4 ,i am often asked how to remove moles4 ,i answer1 8,do not remove them4 ,in the time of ,marie ,antoinette they were regarded as marks of beauty4 ,let them alone40 ,but if anyone insists1 ,i say then go to a physician and be by him guided4 ,probably he will remove them by electricity1 but ,i am afraid--afraid4 ,indigestion is the great foe to the complexion within4 ,the foe to be feared without is the careless use of powders4 ,powder judiciously used1 especially at night1 is an aid to beauty4 ,its use in the evening is an indication of refinement4 ,and a dainty powder fluffed upon the face before going out1 especially if cold cream has first been applied1 is an excellent protection from the cold or heat or from a high wind4 ,but it is absolutely necessary that the powder be pure4 ,rice powder is harmless to the skin4 ,it protects the complexion as would a fine veil4 ,and it removes the disagreeable 8shine0 upon the skin that makes the best-groomed woman look vulgar at night4 ,this powder ,i have found most valuable3 ,rice flour1 #f ounces2 rice starch1 #f ounces2 carbonate of magnesia1 #c ounces2 boric acid1 #a ounces2 powdered orris root1 #a drams2 essence of bergamot1 #aj drops2 essence of citron1 #ae drops4 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,your ,,neck ,,beautiful ,it is a most decided advantage to be born with a beautiful neck1 as it is to be born with beautiful features1 a beautiful figure or beautiful hair4 ,it is one of the compensations of being overplump that the woman of too ample lines has a beautiful throat and arms4 ,while the thin woman1 whose features are well defined1 not being blanketed by superfluous layers of flesh1 and whose figure is more elegant because not swathed by adipose tissue1 has1 as a rule1 a scrawny neck and whip-like arms4 ,the neck to be beautiful must be neither too long nor too short1 too fat nor too lean4 ,it must be shapely2 that is1 evenly developed4 ,the skin must be soft and white4 ,the length of the neck is one of the fixed quantities of nature4 ,one cannot change it1 but we can learn the lesson of illusion from the stage1 and try to make it seem longer or shorter than it is4 ,the best aid to this is the poise of the head4 ,the woman whose chin is carried well up1 whose poise of the head is habitually high1 gives the impression that her neck is at least an inch longer than it is4 ,also the manner of the trimming of her high-neck gown and the line at which the low-cut gown is finished determine whether the neck looks longer than it is or shorter4 ,if the neck is short the collar should be of solid colors or be trimmed with perpendicular lines4 ,the low-necked gown should be cut lower than that of the woman with the long neck1 for the neck is more dependent upon its surroundings for its effect than is any other part of the body4 ,if there is a wide sweep of the shoulders the long line from the point of the shoulder to the chin will lend itself to the neck and make the neck seem longer than it would if the gown were merely one of the collarless sort with a line of cloth defining where the neck actually begins4 ,if the neck is long the problem is an easier one1 especially at times when much dressing for the neck is in vogue4 ,even an ostrich's neck could be so wrapped about with laces1 with collars and ties of a contrasting color which would cut the apparent length1 that it would be far less conspicuous than unadorned4 ,i should say it could be made to look a foot shorter4 ,the human neck can be dressed to make a proportionate change of appearance4 ,the extremely low dcolletage is less becoming to the woman with the long neck4 ,if she must adopt it1 or thinks she must1 she should wear her jewels or a band of ribbon about her neck to make her neck seem shorter4 ,the drooping ,madonna poise of the head may be becomingly affected by the woman with the long neck1 especially when sitting for her photographs4 ,the neck1 ,i have before said1 must be neither too fat nor too lean4 ,to correct either too much or too little flesh upon the neck we must summon the aid of that lieutenant to beauty1 massage4 ,on the beautiful neck the flesh is evenly distributed4 ,the neck should be1 save for the two parallel lines about an inch apart which encircle the neck and are seen on the necks even of babes1 perfectly smooth4 ,if the flesh be uneven1 persistent1 skillful and gentle massage should redistribute the disproportionate bulk of flesh4 ,there is always a possibility that the neck will be flat in front and display thick layers of fat at the sides and back4 ,this can be corrected by patient and careful massage4 ,the front of the neck should be made plumper by massage4 ,olive oil or a pure cold cream should be freely rubbed into the skin by the first three fingers of each hand1 massaging first on the right side of the neck with the right hand1 then on the left with the left hand1 then with both hands together4 ,the motion should be a rotary one1 always the best movement for rebuilding tissue because it induces circulation1 which feeds the starved1 atrophied portions4 ,to reduce the bulk of the back and side of the neck a reducing lotion should be applied by long1 sweeping1 downward strokes1 the effect of which strokes is to melt the flesh downward into the larger masses of flesh on the shoulders4 ,a lotion ,i have known to be used with success for the melting away of too ponderous flesh about the neck is this3 ,tincture of iodine1 #cj minims2 iodide of potassium1 #fj grains2 hyposulphite of soda1 #bj grains2 distilled water1 #g ounces2 aniseed water1 #agj minims4 ,be careful not to tamper with and so enlarge the large glands in the neck4 ,enlarging them may permanently disfigure a beautiful neck4 ,they are the danger points of the manipulation4 ,it is they and the gorged veins that give to a neck that aged1 withered appearance which we describe by the word 8ropey40 ,once these glands are enlarged and the veins swollen there is no art in beauty lore to diminish them4 ,perhaps a physician can reduce their size1 but ,i have never known it to be achieved4 ,for the 8aged neck0 there is almost no hope4 ,mme4 ,sarah ,bernhardt realized this1 and while combating all the other signs of her increasing years1 yielded to the demands of the neck that was no longer young1 and covered it4 ,the collarless gown is not for her4 ,always she wears a high-necked gown1 or1 if circumstances require1 a costume dcollet1 she wears a ribbon of velvet or a collar of jewels about her throat4 ,for battling against the ageing neck ,i can give no better recipe than this for a massage cream1 which should be plentifully applied night and morning3 ,glycerine1 #e ounces2 mutton tallow1 #a pound2 tincture of benzoin1 #b drams2 spirits of camphor1 #a dram2 powdered alum1 dram2 orange flower water1 #a dram2 ,russian isinglass1 #b ounces4 ,if the neck is thin1 but the veins and glands are not enlarged1 there is hope4 ,the skin must be fed by cold creams and the circulation promoted by massage4 ,the rotary motion with the first three fingers of each hand is the desirable one4 ,fifteen minutes should be spent night and morning in this massage4 ,one nourishing massage cream especially excellent for the neck is this3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #aj grams2 lanolin1 #ae grams2 tannin1 gram4 ,a successful fattening cream for the neck contains3 ,alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #bj grams2 lard or cocoa butter1 #ajj grams2 essence of rosemary1 #ab drops2 essence of bergamot1 #ab drops4 ,a third and most important essential is that the skin of the neck be white and soft4 ,to secure this effect one must1 as you say in ,america1 8start right40 ,first prevent stains upon the neck4 ,a stained neck is always a revolting sight4 ,a dark1 shadowy rim about the neck may have been caused by dark collars and there may have been valiant efforts to remove it1 but if they have not been successful ,i beseech you wear only high-necked collars until the stain is removed4 ,the casual observer at a dinner or a ball will make no allowance for the cause1 the stain-communicating collar of colored net or some other fabric4 ,to him your neck will be soiled4 ,that is all and that is very much4 ,to prevent such stains avoid wearing dark colors next to the neck4 ,if the dark collar is unavoidable then line it with something soft and white1 old muslin or part of an old silk handkerchief4 ,but1 having acquired the dark1 shadowy look about the neck that is so repellent remove it as soon as possible4 ,a thorough sponging with peroxide of hydrogen1 full strength1 followed immediately by another bath of rose water1 ,i have found excellent4 ,or there may be frequent baths with this preparation1 which is admirable for bleaching3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce2 carbolic acid1 #aj drops2 tincture of benzoin1 #aj drops4 ,this home remedy is useful when less drastic remedies are not at hand3 ,one-half lemon2 one small tumbler of water4 ,squeeze the lemon juice into the glass4 ,bathe the neck frequently with the mixture4 ,for those1 and there are many1 among them experts1 who do not wish to use the peroxide of hydrogen full strength1 ,i would recommend3 ,peroxide of hydrogen1 wineglass2 witchhazel1 wineglass4 ,to bleach a neck that is too oily this used once a day for three successive days is helpful3 ,rosewater1 wineglass2 ammonia1 #e drops4 ,use this sparingly1 for the action of ammonia upon the skin is to make it exceedingly dry4 ,the woman who would have a beautiful neck must consider it even in repose4 ,she should never use a high pillow1 preferably no pillow at all4 ,for when the head rests upon the pillow1 the chin falls upon the breast4 ,the muscles of the neck are contracted1 wrinkles are formed and muscles become flabby4 ,lying on the back is the best posture for sleeping4 ,the muscles of the neck are thus given full play and rest4 ,many times ,i am asked 8,if you had a mole on the neck what would you do80 ,i would let it remain there1 and be thankful that ,i had a distinguishing mark1 a beauty spot4 ,but if you insist upon removing it a physician might try electricity4 ,i have been asked how to remove superfluous hair from the neck4 ,i should not remove it1 for ,i should not regard it as superfluous4 ,why do ,american women so dislike hair upon the face and neck8 ,there should be a fine covering of hair4 ,it is beautiful4 ,it is like down upon the peach4 ,sometimes the collar supporter1 or a pin or hook used for fastening the collar1 scratches the neck4 ,for these or any other bruises of the neck ,i should first bathe the injured part with absorbent cotton dipped into peroxide of hydrogen4 ,if the bruise is severe ,i would apply collodion or court plaster to protect it from air-floating germs1 while healing4 ,i would remove these by moistening them with alcohol4 ,if this precaution is not taken a bit of the skin or flesh might adhere to the application1 so causing a scar4 ,when the new skin is formed1 covering the wound1 and it is no longer very sensitive1 ,i would massage it gently once a day4 ,this relieves the congestion and gradually removes the disfiguring red line that might remain as a trophy of the adventure4 ,a traveling companion of mine once scraped her neck against a deck railing while the ship tossed4 ,she treated it as ,i have advised and when there still remained a broad pink stain as a souvenir of the accident she massaged it very lightly every day for a fortnight1 when the pink stain utterly disappeared4 ,if your neck is suffering from wearing a too high collar ,i recommend one of the following recipes3 ,equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water4 ,in extreme cases there is no objection to a neck bath of pure peroxide of hydrogen4 ,equal parts of alcohol 7#ie per cent47 and water4 ,equal parts of lemon juice and water4 ,water1 pint2 ammonia1 #a dram4 ,still another remedy is to scrub the neck with a soft complexion brush dipped into a warm lather of ,castile soap with a few drops of ammonia added4 ,in summer when the neck becomes tanned and blistered by the sun massage it with a pure1 cold cream and bathe it frequently with a mild solution of peroxide of hydrogen4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,things ,,to ,,do ,,for ,,the ,,eyes1 ,,ears ,,and ,,nose ,as with all other parts of the body1 the beauty of the eyes depends upon their health1 and their health depends upon care4 ,the eyes have two arch enemies4 ,they are fatigue and dust4 ,to keep the eyes beautiful one must avoid the one and shun the other4 ,do not read too much4 ,i never read at night4 ,artificial light destroys the luster of the eyes4 ,at night we constantly strain the eyes to get more light1 and the strain makes a network of fine lines about the eyes4 ,never read on the train1 no matter how long the journey4 ,it is five days from ,new ,york to ,san ,francisco1 and many persons make that journey several times a year4 ,but if they have regard for the beauty of their eyes they take no magazines or books on the train with them and they buy none on the way4 ,it is quite as good a mental exercise to spend the time on a railroad journey thinking of what you have read1 and of what you have learned in reading the book of life1 as to read something new1 and it is a thousand times better for the eyes4 ,at its best a railway journey is a severe tax upon the eyes as upon the nerves and the complexion4 ,i spend as much of the time as possible in a reclining position with my eyes closed4 ,when the journey is at its end ,i send at once for a solution of adrenalin4 ,the proportions and quantity of the solution ,i always leave to the druggist4 ,i would not take the responsibility of prescribing the amount for myself1 and so will not for another4 ,adrenalin is derived from the supra-renal glands of animals4 ,a solution of it applied frequently to the eyes rests them after a severe strain4 ,i know of nothing more refreshing and immediately rejuvenating1 but ,i insist that it must be used only after a physician has prescribed1 or by the advice of the pharmacist1 who will tell you what under the circumstances is a safe solution4 ,i said ,i do not read too much4 ,an hour and a half a day1 and that at two or three sittings1 instead of continuously1 is enough4 ,close study of a printed page is dangerous to the eyes and to other attractive features of a woman's face4 ,for the sake of the beauty of the eyes--and there is no greater beauty--,i utter now a different warning4 ,if you would have beautiful eyes don't drink too much4 ,a glass and a half of wine at a meal is enough4 ,a pint of wine a day is all that any woman who wishes to be beautiful should permit herself1 and that only if she has been accustomed to drinking wine4 ,too much drinking makes the eyes bloodshot4 ,it congests the blood vessels in them1 causing disfiguring little red streaks in the whites of the eyes4 ,it causes also a congested condition that inflames the lining of the lids4 ,when the eyes are tired the thing to do is to rest4 ,go to your room4 ,loosen your clothes4 ,lie upon your back and place upon your eyes a hot compress4 ,make the compress in this way3 ,one gill rosewater2 one gill witch hazel4 ,heat this mixture and when it is nearly at the boiling point dip into it a bandage of soft linen1 or of absorbent cotton1 and press this upon the eyes4 ,sometimes a friend of mine points to her yellow eyeballs and says3 8,what shall ,i do to make them white80 ,i answer3 8,you are bilious4 ,you must cleanse the liver and the stomach4 ,a physician or a pharmacist can best tell you how to do this4 ,but if you do not wish to go to either try a semi-fast4 ,eat only half as much at each meal as you have been doing1 and drink water freely4 ,we need three quarts of water a day to keep the body in health4 ,if the system has reached such a condition that the eyeballs are yellow then that quantity should be increased by one-half4 ,water drinking is a necessity that should become a fixed habit4 ,every morning at rising we should drink at least two glassfuls of cold1 but not ice water4 ,if the stomach is very delicate it would be better that the water were warm4 ,if cold it should be sipped1 not tossed off at a draught1 because by the time it reaches the stomach it should be as warm as the lining of the stomach itself1 to prevent chilling that important organ4 ,throughout the day a good deal could be drunk and the remainder should be drunk in a leisurely way at night4 ,it is well under the most ordinary circumstances to drink two or three glasses of water before retiring4 ,for the woman with the yellow eyeballs a half teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda or of pulverized charcoal could be taken to advantage in a glass of the water at morning or night4 ,also ,i should advise for this woman exercise out of doors4 ,for the daily care of the eyes there should be two baths4 ,the body must have its bath4 ,the face must have its cleansing4 ,why not the eye1 especially as the eye1 with its thick lid and the fringe of eyelashes1 is a dust trap1 and the slightest speck of dust allowed to remain beneath the lid may cause inflammation of the lid and irritation of the eye4 ,for the eye's daily bath ,i offer you the choice of several lotions4 ,my favorite is3 ,ten ounces purest rosewater4 ,apply with an eyecup1 turning the eyecup upside down so that the half open eye is completely washed by the contents of the cup4 ,hold it thus for thirty seconds1 or1 if not uncomfortable1 a full minute4 ,throw away this rosewater4 ,rinse the glass and give the eye a second bath4 ,if the eyes are irritated the bath can be repeated several times4 ,ordinarily a bath in the morning on rising and another at night on retiring are enough4 ,one ounce elderflower water4 ,some of my friends who have beautiful eyes prefer this to rosewater4 ,it is equally good4 ,apply it in the same way4 ,another excellent eyebath is3 ,one-half ounce witch hazel2 one-half ounce distilled water4 ,shake well in bottle and apply with an eyecup4 ,one other bath is excellent3 ,six drops boracic acid2 one wineglass distilled water4 ,shake well before applying4 ,salt has its advocates4 ,certainly salt is stimulating to tired eyes1 but ,i would only use it in emergencies4 ,then once a day1 before retiring as follows3 ,a pinch of salt in an eyecup of cold water4 ,use with the eyecup4 ,also bathe the lids with a bit of cotton dipped into the salt water4 ,a bath of borax water is beneficial and has the advantage of always being convenient4 ,even while traveling one may carry a box of borax4 ,futhermore1 it is safe1 because borax will only form a four per cent4 solution1 that is1 four per cent4 of it only will be absorbed by water4 ,a borax bath is strengthening4 ,if the eyes be delicate or the person so prejudiced against experiments that she is not willing to introduce this substance into the eyes1 a silk sponge or a soft cloth dipped into borax water and pressed upon the eyelids is efficacious1 soothing4 ,the old fashioned home remedy of cold tea leaves pressed upon the lids has value1 not from the tea leaves intrinsically1 but from the cool1 moist contact4 ,cloths dipped in water are quite as good4 ,whatever reduces the fever and inflammation in eyelids makes for the beauty of the eyes4 ,and here a word of warning4 ,if the lids become granular1 that is1 if tiny lumps form inside the lining of the eyelid1 don't attempt to cure them yourself4 ,give yourself over to a physician's care4 ,there is nothing more disfiguring or dangerous to the eyes than these irritating little lumps4 ,they are caused by eye strain and if the strain be removed the granules are likely to disappear4 ,if1 however1 the case is far advanced it needs medical treatment4 ,as the greatest enemy of the beauty of the eyes is strain1 so the greatest friend is rest4 ,if my eyes were losing their brightness ,i should first of all rest4 ,but rest may be taken1 to use the druggist's phrase1 8in small doses40 ,if ,i am too much engaged to go into a dark room and rest for days ,i can at least rest my eyes by taking extra sleep4 ,from the standpoint of beauty every one should retire before twelve1 to give the eyes sufficient rest4 ,and there are twenty chances a day to close the eyes for a few minutes4 ,say five minutes at a time1 and twenty times4 ,there we have one hundred minutes4 ,those chances can be taken on the ,subway1 the 8,l0 trains or in the surface cars4 ,often have ,i seen a man on a train admire a young woman for the demure1 downcast glance of her eye4 ,he thinks that is one of her individual lures4 ,silly man4 ,the girl doesn't know he exists4 ,she is merely taking an eye rest4 ,when you are bathing your face1 when you are massaging it1 when you are brushing your hair1 while you are being manicured or pedicured--there are countless opportunities to give the eyes the rest they need4 ,try it for three days and the results will amaze you4 ,never use preparations in or upon the eyes1 unless you have them analyzed4 ,do not count the cost of analysis4 ,what are a few ,american dollars or ,french francs or ,italian lire compared with beauty6 ,never use any toilet article without such analysis4 ,and even after you have used the preparation for a time it is wise to again submit it to another analysis1 for when an article has secured its vogue through excellence ,i am sorry to say that manufacturers oftentimes increase their profits by cheapening the ingredients and adulterating the article4 ,the surroundings of the eyes are as important as the eyes themselves4 ,keep lines away from the eyes by keeping them well rested4 ,also massage lightly about them for four or five minutes4 ,never longer1 because too much massage will tire the exceedingly delicate muscles about the eyes and cause them to sag4 ,massage them at retiring with any good cold cream4 ,rub with light rotary motion1 with the tips of the second and third fingers1 outward and away from the corners of the eyes4 ,with the same fingers stroke the muscles that lie along the upper edge of the cheekbone4 ,the stroke should be a slow1 sweeping one from the lower corner of the eye to the edge of the hair line4 ,never touch the soft1 flabby skin beneath the eyes4 ,it will make wrinkles4 ,a third1 valuable stroke is above and along the upper edge of the eyebrows4 ,it is most soothing and restful4 ,the eyelashes depend for their length and beauty upon the condition of the eyelids4 ,do not allow them to become inflamed4 ,if they are irritated the lashes will be weakened and will stop growing1 or will fall out4 ,to make them grow long and evenly they should be clipped two or three times a year4 ,if the eyelashes grow thin or unevenly it may be because the eyes are strained and the lids inflamed4 ,to remedy such a condition ,i recommend either of the following prescriptions3 ,rosewater1 #a-c glass2 witch hazel1 glass4 ,warm and apply by opening the eye when covered by the glassful of the mixture1 thus giving the eye a thorough bath4 ,camphor water1 #a ounce2 powdered borax1 #c grains2 infusion of sassafras-pith1 #b ounces4 ,apply with an eye-dropper1 the glass tube with rubber bulb that can be obtained in any drug store4 ,apply as frequently as is needed to allay the inflammation4 ,the growth of the eyelashes can also be promoted by frequent brushing with an eyelash brush1 also by carefully clipping the ends twice a year4 ,brush the lashes upward and the brows toward the temples1 training the arch to be high and piquant4 ,for eyebrows that are weak and thin this lotion is excellent and should be applied frequently3 ,sulphate of quinine1 #aj grains2 oil of sweet almonds1 #b ounces4 ,the eyebrows should be kept clean by brushing with a tiny eyebrow brush4 ,a half dozen strokes upon each eyebrow is enough4 ,the lashes should be brushed upward4 ,that makes them curly4 ,sometimes eyebrows grow unevenly4 ,they begin well1 but end drearily1 in a straggling line of sparse hairs or in no hairs at all4 ,massaging the scant parts of the eyebrow with lanolin will improve them4 ,here is a most excellent tonic for the brows1 and indeed for the hair4 ,applied three times a week it will give the hair a fine stimulus toward growth4 ,you can get from the druggist a smaller quantity than ,i describe but the proportions should be as follows3 ,tincture of vanilla1 #f grams2 tincture of carnation1 #aj grams2 ,peruvian balsam1 ,o4#fe grains2 alcohol1 #dej grams2 oil of bergamot1 ,o4#de grams2 oil of lemon1 ,o4#ij grams2 quinine1 #j4dj grams2 infusion of civet1 ,o4#aj grams2 infusion of musk1 #j4aj grams4 ,sometimes the eyelashes show a bothersome tendency to curve inward1 usually on the lower lid4 ,to insure comfort and avoid dangerous irritation of the eyes they should be removed by careful manipulation of hair forceps especially made for the purpose4 ,girls often ask me how to make their eyelashes darker4 ,there are dyes or stains for eyelashes1 but ,i do not recommend them4 ,in themselves hair dyes are likely to be injurious4 ,the application of one of them to the eyelashes by an unsteady hand might permanently injure the eyes4 ,eyelashes are often too light because they are faded4 ,to restore them to their original color1 clipping the ends carefully and slightly every two months may strengthen and stimulate and so darken them4 ,this pomade is in common use in ,france3 ,red vaseline1 #a ounce2 tincture of cantharides1 dram2 oil of lavender1 #h drops2 oil of rosemary1 #h drops4 ,apply with the utmost care so that none of it gets into the eyes4 ,if your eyelids are encrusted when you wake up in the morning don't attempt to remove the incrustations until you have moistened them with a lotion from your eye cup4 ,the best one for this purpose is made by dissolving an ounce of boracic acid in a pint of rosewater4 ,styes are ugly and disfiguring4 ,in their first stages they can be removed by applying ethereal collodion with a camel's hair brush4 ,if the condition has progressed far1 a tiny flaxseed poultice soon brings it to the 8ripe0 stage1 after which it can be lanced by an ordinary needle1 that has been sterilized1 by passing it through fire4 ,if your eyebrows are straggly and uneven1 and in places very thin1 use an eyebrow brush twice a day4 ,every morning and evening brush the brows1 giving them at least twenty-five strokes each and being careful to brush in the direction you want them to grow4 ,in this way you can do much to cultivate the beautiful arch4 ,it will also remove the dandruff that is likely to accumulate about the eyebrows4 ,massaging the brows at night with lanolin is also helpful4 ,the greatest menace to a business girl's beauty is that of eye strain4 ,the danger that this eye strain will produce wrinkles between her eyebrows1 will inflame the lids and cause the eyelashes to fall out1 and will dim the brightness of the eyes and produce the tired expression of the old or of those who are devitalized by age or overwork is great4 ,these tendencies she must balance by greater care than the woman in her home gives to her eyes4 ,since the strain during business hours is excessive she should not add to that the further strain of reading on trains or by lamplight4 ,this will cause some intellectuals to cry out3 8,la ,cavalieri would empty our girls' heads40 ,no1 but the purpose of these articles is to reveal beauty secrets1 and one of the secrets of beauty is to keep the eyes clear1 bright and untired4 ,therefore1 ,i repeat that the beauty in business must not read on the moving train4 ,nor must she read by lamplight4 ,the best use she can make of her eyes for beauty's sake while upon a train is to close them1 and her brothers or sisters would better read to her at night4 ,she can save the strain upon her eyes by closing them for a few seconds at a time several times a day4 ,they as well as her face must have their daily bath1 better two daily baths1 one in the morning and one in the evening4 ,the baths may be of equal parts of witch hazel and warm water1 or of warm water into which a half dozen grains of boric acid have been sprinkled1 or a full cupful of rose water4 ,and the girl who would keep her eyes beautiful must have plenty of sleep4 ,she should sleep at least eight hours a day1 more if her system requires it4 ,if she can take a quarter or half an hour's nap after coming home from business and before her evening meal or before going to the theater or a dance1 she will find her tired eyes have regained much of their luster4 ,before ,i finish my advice about the eyes ,i must not forget to give still another formula which is excellent for bathing them3 ,salt1 grain2 sulphate of zinc1 grain2 rosewater1 #d ounces4 ,mix with an equal quantity of water and apply with an eye cup4 ,the eyes tire most easily in summer and that is when they should be given an extra amount of rest and attention4 ,rest them from the glare of white country roads by wearing smoked glasses4 ,rest them by giving up the distractingly becoming but eyes-torturing1 crossbarred1 myriad dotted veil4 ,read little4 ,persuade your beaux1 your little sisters or your maids or poor relations to read to you4 ,close your eyes while you listen4 ,don't read in a hammock nor on a lounge4 ,don't read on a train4 ,don't read in a room dimly lighted 8so that it will keep cool40 ,rest the tired eyes by plenty of sleep at night and an afternoon nap4 ,bathe the eyes night and morning with witch hazel and warm water1 mixed in equal parts2 or with an ounce of boracic acid in a pint of rose water4 ,use an eye cup1 turning the eye upward and opening it so that it will be laved by the contents of the cup4 ,when wiping the eyes use a soft cloth1 oil linen or silk1 and wipe the lids toward1 not away1 from the nose4 ,this will help to prevent the wrinkles about the eyes1 also the wrinkling of the eyelids themselves4 ,for hot1 tired eyes ,mme4 ,recamier used to apply a lotion made by pouring over dried rose leaves a quantity of water of twice their bulk4 ,if the eyes are very inflamed washing them in equal parts of witch hazel and camphor water will be found beneficial4 ,for granular lids many pastes have been recommended4 ,my advice is to seek out a reliable physician and have the eyes examined and his prescription filled4 ,a 8cold0 in the eye is most annoying and liable to be expensive4 ,you get up in the morning1 look in the glass1 and find that one of your eyes--or maybe both--looks much inflamed4 ,if you do nothing about it1 the condition may not pass away for a number of days1 and meanwhile you are more or less disabled4 ,very possibly1 in some alarm1 you go to see the oculist4 ,he frightens you at once by telling you that it is 8conjunctivitis0--a long word which means simply inflammation of the membrane that covers the eye4 ,he puts some drops in the eye1 and tells you to come back the next day4 ,you are finally cured1 and the bill comes to #ae or #be4 ,that is well enough4 ,perhaps you don't mind the bill1 or the trouble of going to the doctor's4 ,but it is likely that you would be less satisfied if you knew that you could easily have cured yourself much quicker and without any expense at all4 ,if you have a 8cold0 in your eye1 you can get rid of it within a few hours by bathing the eye freely and often with a solution made by putting two drops of formaline into a teacupful of water4 ,the formaline you can buy at any drugstore4 ,it may be used with an eye-dropper or an eye-bath--either of which can be had from the drugstore4 ,but it is even more effective to allow somebody else to pour it into the eye by squeezing again and again a rag or piece of cotton saturated with it4 ,a 8cold0 in the eye is nothing in the world but a germ infection4 ,formaline kills the germs4 ,but don't use formaline in any stronger solution than two drops to the teacupful4 ,if you get it into your eye in a pure state1 you might destroy the sight4 ,at the least1 you would suffer frightful pain4 ,incidentally it may be said that the best eye-water known to oculists for the treatment of sore eyes or lids is made by mixing ten grains of boracic acid and five grains of tannic acid with one drachm of camphor water and enough ordinary water to make a total of one ounce4 ,the ingredients are cheap1 purchased from the apothecary1 and you can prepare them yourself if you care to4 ,when not due to over indulgence in alcohol an excessively red nose is usually the result of indigestion or clothing that is too tight4 ,in the first stages of the trouble ,parisians bathe the unfortunate feature frequently with this1 recommended by ,dr4 ,vigier3 ,distilled water1 #ej grams2 rosewater1 #ej grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #a gram2 sulphate of potassium1 #a gram4 ,if it has become chronic1 this1 massaged freely into the affected organ1 is recommended by ,m4 ,andres-,valdes3 ,rectified alcohol1 #h grams2 pure glycerine1 #h grams2 precipitated chalk1 #h grams2 cherry laurel water1 #h grams2 precipitate of sulphur1 #h grams4 ,the ear is the most neglected part of the head4 ,that a pair of ears stand out unduly from the face1 making what one of your ,american artists term the accessories of the face1 more prominent than the countenance itself1 most parents regard as a wise visitation of ,providence1 or ignore it4 ,or if the ears are so jammed against the head that one can not see them without an effort1 that1 too1 is liable to be overlooked by parents1 not by anyone else who sees the child who is a victim to the malformation4 ,be as careful to frame your child's face well as you are to frame a picture1 so that its colors are best thrown into relief4 ,some mothers are artists in the matter of the arrangement of the child's hair1 and when this is becomingly done they think their duty done4 ,the ears are neglected4 ,if they stand out prominently from the head they can be trained1 especially in childhood1 back into the relation they should bear to the head4 ,an ear harness made of strong cotton tape is made for this purpose and should be worn at night by children or adults who need it4 ,it is far better1 of course1 to use it in childhood1 when the cartilage that forms the outer part of the ear is more plastic1 but it is more or less efficacious after you have reached your full growth4 ,it is certainly well worth trying4 ,if the ear is packed closely against the head train it outward by gentle massage and light pulling1 done by yourself4 ,you are the best judge of whether the pulling hurts4 ,if it does1 stop4 ,if the ears are less than the normal size they can be enlarged by the same process4 ,an earache that cannot be quickly relieved by placing loose1 warm bandages over it should be brought at once to the doctor's attention1 for a persistent earache is often the forerunner of serious conditions1 especially of deafness4 ,if your ears are delicate1 riding in the tunnels may be permanently injurious to them4 ,the greatly increased pressure of air under the rivers is a menace to the eardrum2 may cause it to burst and bring about incurable deafness4 ,you do not know1 perhaps1 that chronic and severe diseases of the ear often begin in the nose or throat4 ,wherefore you are taking care of the ear when you keep the throat and the nasal passages free from obstacles4 ,gargling the throat every morning is a measure for health and cleanliness that no one should neglect4 ,a tablespoonful of salt in a glass of warm water1 or a pinch of borax in the same quantity of water1 will serve well4 ,but ,i am inclined to the later belief that no one should douche the nose except by the doctor's order4 ,the liquid you use for the douche might carry germs of disease into the back of the head and cause a general infection1 while they might disappear in the natural way if there were no interference with nature's plan of carrying away invaders of the head4 ,if the nose is in healthy condition it secretes a pint of liquid every day and is nature's adequate channel for clearing the head4 ,but the ear must not be encouraged nor allowed long to 8run40 ,a chronic discharge from the ear is a serious condition and may have a fatal end4 ,hasten with it to a physician4 ,life insurance companies1 knowing how serious this is1 will never insure the lives of persons with running ears4 ,doctors generally advise us not to try to remove the wax from the ears4 ,they say that if we let the ear alone the wax will finally form into a hard little ball and drop out without assistance4 ,they advise us not to put cotton into the ears unless specially advised to by a reliable physician1 who will never give the advice unless the need is imperative4 ,they forbid poulticing or syringing the ears without special advice1 and they are quite right in warning against the indiscriminate use of ear drops4 ,better regard the inner part of the ear as inviolate4 ,so1 too1 the outer1 except for keeping the folds clean4 ,in the cleaning do not handle the ear roughly4 ,remove the dust from the folds of the ear with a soft cloth1 soap and water4 ,be careful to immediately and thoroughly dry them4 ,if you leave the neck or hair about the ears wet or chilled the earache or neuralgia that will follow may lead to deafness4 ,never box a child's ears2 it may cause a rupture4 ,do not pull a child's ears1 lest injury follow4 ,be sure to have the adenoids removed4 ,adenoids in children are a cause of ear troubles1 among many others4 ,physicians now believe that sea-sickness is due to ear disturbances4 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,keeping ,,the ,,hands1 ,,arms ,,and ,,shoulders ,,young ,if ,i were to summarize my experience and the advice ,i wish to give about the hands in one sentence ,i would say3 8,never let the hands get cold40 ,the advice is very comprehensive1 and in a sense sufficient4 ,if you never let your hands grow cold they will be soft and white and retain their natural shape and size4 ,for example1 the fresh air curists travel the radical road to the point of keeping their bathrooms cool or cold4 ,that is absurd4 ,the bathroom should be kept at an unvarying temperature of #fh degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,the bather should step from tepid water into surrounding air two or three degrees warmer4 ,yet ,i have seen a famous beauty step from an ice cold tub of water upon her bath mat and shiveringly towel herself dry in a bathroom whose window opened for six inches above and below upon a court where the air was at zero4 ,and she wondered why the skin of her hands and face were rough and purplish4 ,another friend1 an athletic beauty1 disliked carrying a muff1 and ,december and ,january found her swinging along ,fifth ,avenue1 her pretty hands covered only with a pair of cold1 thin1 cramping kid gloves4 ,she called at my atelier and showed me her hands4 ,they were shockingly red and rough4 ,both she and my friend of the cold bath room had violated the first command of the care of the hands3 8,always keep them warm40 ,for each of them ,i prescribed first changing their habits4 8,always wash your hands in tepid or hot water10 ,i said to the first4 8,carry your muff from ,october to ,april10 ,i said to the second4 ,and when they had promised1 ,i having sternly exacted that essential thing1 ,i set about removing the ugliness4 ,the first aid was to show them the right way to wash their hands4 ,not one person in fifty knows how to wash the hands4 ,the water should be tepid4 ,if it is what is known as 8hard water0 it may be softened with a little borax1 say one teaspoonful to a quart of water4 ,or1 if possible1 it would be well to use distilled water1 since borax must be used with discretion4 ,then dip into the water a cake of the best soap4 ,a scented soap is not necessarily a bad soap4 ,so ,i try various kinds1 liking one1 but seeking another that is better4 ,when ,i have dipped the soap into the water long enough to make a dainty lather ,i plunge my hands into it4 ,then ,i dry them1 but only partly1 upon a soft linen towel4 ,before the hands have time to dry1 and especially before they have time to chill1 ,i take from my toilet shelf or medicine chest a bottle of my favorite hand cleanser4 ,the bottle may be large or small1 but the proportions of the mixture ,i keep always the same4 ,here is how it is made3 ,hydrated glycerine 7glycerine mixed with water71 #a tablespoonful2 any favorite perfume 7mine is ,italian pink71 #c drops4 ,rub the hands thoroughly with this4 ,rub is not a strong enough word for the process4 ,it does not suggest the thoroughness of the process4 ,say rather1 wash your hands in it4 ,ten minutes is none too long for washing the hands4 ,five minutes should be given to the water1 five to the glycerine bath4 ,then dry thoroughly with a towel4 ,observe how soft your hands are after such a bath and you will be surprised and delighted with this treatment4 ,illustration3 ,,anna ,,held ,the fascinating beauty of her eyes is famous the world over4 ,i am aware that there is some prejudice against glycerine4 ,would-be authorities will rise and say that glycerine burns an exceedingly delicate skin--that it is an irritant in some cases4 ,so it is4 ,the person who uses it must be a judge of that herself4 ,it has always 8agreed0 with my hands1 making them soft and white and supple4 ,but for those whose hands burn and itch after using it there is this lotion for occasional1 not regular1 use1 for ,i am opposed to a too free use of peroxide of hydrogen3 ,peroxide of hydrogen1 wineglass2 witch hazel1 wineglass2 always shake well before using4 ,i should not advise this oftener than three times a week1 at most4 ,and ,i should vary it with rubbing with olive oil1 which is of especial value to thin hands4 ,a few weeks of using it will result in a perceptible plumpening of them4 ,or1 to whiten and soften the hands1 this has many advocates1 and ,i see no objection to its occasional use4 ,ammonia is too powerful for regular use3 ,olive oil1 #a wineglass2 ammonia1 #f drops4 ,but to assure beautiful hands1 and that in the shortest possible time1 massage them with a simple cold cream and wear rubber gloves at night4 ,but the gloves should be at least two sizes larger than the #e or #f you wear in kids1 and they should be punctured as freely as the top of a pepper box4 ,ventilation is necessary to the health of the hands and of the owner of the hands4 ,for a cold cream for the hands for the night toilet ,i should advise this mixture3 ,spermaceti1 #b ounces2 white wax1 #a ounce2 almond oil1 #b gills4 ,there are two pastes that are excellent to be used as a night cosmetic with gloves3 ,rosewater1 #f ounces2 honey1 #d ounces2 yellow beeswax1 #b ounces2 myrrh1 #a ounce4 ,this can be prepared at home1 if you desire4 ,melt the wax4 ,stir the powdered myrrh while hot4 ,add the honey and rosewater1 drop by drop4 ,if the preparation seems to be a bit too thick to handle comfortably thin it with a few drops of hydrated glycerine4 ,another delightful paste has the following ingredients3 ,tincture of benzoin1 #b drams2 fresh yolks of eggs1 #b drams2 rice flour1 #a dram2 rose water1 #a ounce2 oil of sweet almonds1 #b drams2 glycerine1 #a dram4 ,this is a home preparation and because of the perishable nature of the eggs can only be kept for a few days4 ,now as to how to massage the hands4 ,for the face a rotary motion1 but for the hands a lengthwise one4 ,i can best describe the massage for the hands by summoning your imagination4 ,fancy that you are wearing a pair of gloves for the first time4 ,that you have accurately fitted the fingers and that you have now only to see that the glove fits smoothly upon the back of the hands4 ,you stroke the back of the right hand gently1 but firmly1 with the fingers of the left1 and the left hand with the fingers of the right4 ,do this at least twenty times for each hand4 ,then lightly pinch the ends of each finger1 pressing the sides of the fingers between the thumb and second finger4 ,some excessively nervous or anmic persons are annoyed by cold1 moist1 clammy hands4 ,this is a remedy that is safe and efficacious3 ,tannic acid1 #aj grains2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce2 elder flower water1 #c ounces2 rosewater1 #f ounces4 ,if there is a strong objection to soap1 try the liquid sort4 ,if your objection persists then substitute fine almond meal1 a handful for one cleansing of the hands4 ,tincture of benzoin is also a good softening agent for the water1 and its odor is refreshing4 ,four drops to a quart of tepid water are sufficient4 8,how can ,i have nice1 white hands1 though ,i do my own work80 ,this is the problem many housewives continually face4 ,by wearing loose gloves as much as possible about your work4 ,by thoroughly drying your hands after washing them1 or1 better still1 by washing them again before they are dried1 in3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 lemon juice1 #a ounce4 ,the beauty of the hands suffers in different ways at different times of year4 ,in winter the cold winds frequently chap them4 ,for this disagreeable condition ,i have used with good results a lotion made as follows3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 spirits of wine1 #a ounce2 violet extract1 #a ounce4 ,pour over the hands after washing4 ,if the chapping has made the hands too sensitive to bear the glycerine try this3 ,oil of almonds1 #a ounce2 lime water1 #a fluid ounce2 borax1 #f grains4 ,in summer the hands and arms often suffer as much if not more than the face from the sun's burning rays4 ,here is a lotion which will cool them and reduce their unlovely redness3 ,lemon juice1 #a ounce2 strained honey1 #a ounce2 cologne1 #a ounce4 ,if the sunburn results in freckles apply with a small sponge or a bit of absorbent cotton or a camel's hair brush the following3 ,powdered borax1 dram2 sugar1 dram2 lemon juice1 #a ounce4 ,here is still another remedy which answers the purpose as well as the ones just described3 ,muriate of ammonia1 dram2 lavender water1 #a ounce2 distilled water1 #d ounces4 ,for a mild case of freckles here is a simple remedy that will often prove sufficient3 ,peroxide of hydrogen1 #a ounce2 ammonia1 #aj drops4 ,apply with a camel's hair brush4 ,of no part of the body is it quite so true that curves are the lines of beauty as it is of the arms and shoulders4 ,a lovely woman in an evening gown always reminds me of a beautiful bouquet rising out of a vase4 ,the woman's head and shoulders and arms are the flowers1 the gown and the rest of her body the vase4 ,fancy a bouquet with one fresh1 purple pansy in the center and all about it withered yellow flowers4 ,it is not a pleasant picture even in fancy1 but that is precisely how the woman with a charming face and unlovely arms and shoulders looks4 ,beautiful shoulders must first of all be symmetrical shoulders4 ,they must be just broad enough to balance finely the figure4 ,if the figure which they surmount be slender the shoulders also should be slender4 ,but they should never be thin4 ,for beauty's sake they must be soft1 not muscular4 ,they must be overlaid with a veiling of firm flesh4 ,they must slope gently into the lines of the arms and bust and back by almost imperceptible degrees4 ,while they are plump in front they should be thin at the back4 ,a roll of flesh between the shoulder blades is unsightly and gives the appearance of age4 ,after shapeliness of the shoulders in importance comes whiteness4 ,shoulders well cared for should be the whitest part of a woman's body4 ,a third important element in the beauty of the shoulders is the texture of the skin4 ,it should be of satin fineness4 ,to attain shapely shoulders begin with the chest4 ,the woman with a high chest always has beautifully shaped shoulders4 ,form the habit of breathing deeply4 ,a shop girl in one of ,new ,york's department stores had so fine a development of chest and shoulders that ,i asked her how she achieved it4 ,her figure was so slender that ,i knew she must have built up those shoulders and the chest by some wise system of exercise4 8,yes1 haven't ,i done fine80 she answered4 8,two years ago ,i was the scrawniest thing you ever saw4 ,my neck and shoulders looked like a wood pile that had tumbled over itself4 ,i was all sharp corners4 ,i heard of this new deep breathing and ,i tried it4 ,most of it ,i did on the platforms of the 8,l0 trains4 ,winter and summer ,i rode downtown from ,harlem to work1 and instead of sitting in the car ,i stood on the platform4 ,at first it made me tired1 but after ,i got used to it ,i began to look forward to feeling the clear1 cool air rush through my lungs4 ,now it's the best treat of the day4 ,maybe ,i would have got lazy and not kept it up1 but ,i saw the flesh beginning to pad all the corners of my neck and shoulders4 ,my chest lost its caved-in look4 ,you just bet that deep breathing pays40 ,deep breathing does pay4 ,it pays a large dividend in health and beauty4 ,but next in importance comes massage4 ,give me an excellent masseuse and ,i could dispense with a doctor1 except in some tremendous emergency4 ,thin shoulders can be plumped and fat shoulders can be reduced by massage4 ,if they are thin a light massage1 using a rotary movement of the palms of the hands1 applying olive oil copiously1 will gradually plumpen them4 ,if they are fat the massage should be much deeper and more vigorous4 ,the masseuse should knead as near the bone as possible4 ,for this massage a cream may be applied to feed the tissues4 ,here is a good one3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #bj grams2 lanolin1 #cj grams2 tannin1 gram4 ,yet another cream that is an excellent builder of flesh is this1 so commonly in use in ,europe as to be almost a household article3 ,lard1 #ej grams2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #aj grams2 oil of rosemary1 #f drops2 oil of bergamot or orange1 #f drops4 ,if the shoulders are fat the massage should be much deeper and more vigorous4 ,the masseuse should get as near to the bone as possible4 ,she should use neither oils nor cream1 but instead some astringent lotion1 as1 for instance1 this3 ,rosewater1 #ab ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 #a ounce2 tannic acid1 #bj grains2 elder flower water1 #d ounces4 ,shoulders should be white4 ,normally they are1 and if not the general health should be looked to as a corrective4 ,are the shoulders yellow8 ,probably their owner is bilious and requires a change from a heavy meat and sweets diet to a lighter one in which cereals and green vegetables and salads predominate4 ,the system should be irrigated by much water drinking4 ,try to remember that the amount of food for a day's sustenance has been estimated in the proportion of five parts to seven parts water4 ,are her shoulders marred by pimples or acne8 ,again she should look to her diet1 eating less rich food4 ,a thorough scrubbing of the shoulders with warm water and pure soap once a day1 followed by a rub-down with alcohol1 should be sufficient to keep them prettily white if the diet is a correct one4 ,if the shoulders have been tanned or freckled by much sea bathing or lolling on the burning sands1 they will be improved by applications twice a day of this old-fashioned remedy3 ,horseradish root1 #a ounce2 borax1 #b drams4 ,pour over these one pint of boiling water4 ,apply with a sponge4 ,also apply distilled water and the juice of a lemon or peroxide of hydrogen1 mixed in equal parts4 ,the effects of a half dozen applications of these should be quickly apparent4 ,arms1 like shoulders1 must possess symmetry4 ,that is1 they must seem to be of the body1 included in the original plan instead of being hastily added as an afterthought4 ,they must be in perfect proportion4 ,the size of the arm depends wholly upon the size of the body4 ,in ,paris recently a pretty little ,russian1 ,miss ,amelia ,rose1 won the prize for having a perfect arm4 ,in ,paris1 where beauty is the chief divinity1 the awarding of the prize to one not of the ,french nation was a momentous matter4 ,everyone wanted to know the proportions of the arm4 ,the ,russian beauty's height was five feet five inches4 ,her arms conformed to the canons of statuary4 ,the upper arm was one-third shorter than the forearm4 ,the circumference of the upper arm was thirteen inches2 of the forearm nine inches1 and of the wrist six inches4 ,the beautiful arm looks as though it were made for ornament1 not for use4 ,no muscle is unduly prominent4 ,it should be as soft and smooth as white velvet4 ,if the arm is too fat its size can be reduced by massage with the wringing motion4 ,the masseuse should manipulate the arm exactly as though she were wringing out clothes before hanging them out to dry4 ,to develop the arm there are many exercises4 ,small dumbbells1 weighing half a pound1 can be swung to great advantage4 ,also to develop at once the muscles of shoulders and arms this is valuable4 ,stretch the arms horizontally from the body until the muscles are tense4 ,then slowly raise them above the head1 trying to keep the muscles rigid4 ,clench the fists and1 stretching the arms horizontally at the sides1 raise and lower the arms4 ,this develops the biceps4 ,clench the fists and turn them slowly about on the wrists to make the wrists supple4 ,light massage with olive oil supplements the exercises4 ,i know a girl who otherwise had a charming figure1 but whose arms were distressingly thin4 ,it took two years of attention to them to make those arms attractive1 but she succeeded4 ,the means were a change of diet to more nourishing and muscle-building food1 a half hour twice a day with dumbbells1 and daily massage with cold cream or olive oil4 ,the results were soft1 well rounded1 pinkly white arms that charmed everyone who saw them4 ,an exercise that develops the arms and the back and bust as well is this3 ,holding the arms at the sides1 inhale deeply4 ,clench the fists4 ,bend the elbows4 ,bring the fists to the shoulders1 moving only the lower arms4 ,with the fists resting at the shoulders raise the elbows to a straight line with the shoulders4 ,move the fists down slowly until they fit close into the armpits4 ,move the fists slowly around to the back1 crossing them1 and then lowering the arms to their first position4 ,keep the muscles tense while so doing4 ,this is a famous resistance exercise4 ,if the texture of the skin on the arms is coarse1 a dry rub every day with a soft flesh brush should open the pores1 whose long collecting accretions have made the skin rough4 ,this treatment will make the skin tender4 ,if it seems sensitive apply a good cold cream every morning and evening4 ,after the morning application powder may be added4 ,the arms may be dusted with a pure powder4 ,one of the best cold creams for the purpose is this3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #ej grams2 white wax1 #aj grams2 spermaceti or sperm oil1 #aj grams2 rosewater1 #bj grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #e grams2 tincture of amber1 #b grams4 ,while reducing her arms1 or before she has succeeded in so doing1 the stout woman should not wear sleeves shorter than the elbow length4 ,her upper arm is gross and she should veil it until she has reduced it to lovelier proportions4 ,to keep my hands smooth and white ,i wash them la ,cavalieri4 ,first in soapy water1 through many waters until they are spotless as my linen4 ,then ,i dry them1 but only partly1 by the heat of the hands themselves1 not with a towel4 ,then ,i bathe them again in this mixture3 ,one ounce glycerine2 three ounces rosewater2 ten drops lemon juice4 ,this should be well shaken when being mixed1 and also every time it is used4 ,cold-roughened hands must be treated with special care at night4 ,that is the time to give them their complete toilet4 ,it is well for them if it has not been necessary to wash them often during the day4 ,they must1 of course1 be kept clean4 ,but better avoid soiling them during the day than wash them too often4 ,buy a large pair of rubber gloves1 at least three or four sizes larger than the kid gloves you are in the habit of wearing4 ,after washing the hands in warm water1 softened with a few drops of ammonia1 say a half dozen drops to a quart of water1 and a good1 pure soap1 as white castile or one of the tar soaps1 bathe the hands in cooler water and1 before drying them1 rub thoroughly over them3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce4 ,then draw on the rubber gloves4 ,if the hands be much darkened or reddened this will whiten as well as soften them3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 lemon juice1 #a ounce4 ,in extreme cases a paste worn for two or three nights under the rubber gloves will facilitate the work of making the hands once more presentable4 ,this is a good paste3 ,almond meal1 #a ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 #aj drops2 honey1 ounce4 ,in similar fashion when hands have been reddened and blistered by the sun wear a pair of loose gloves at night1 first covering the hands with this mixture3 ,honey1 #b ounces2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 barley flour1 #h ounces2 whites of two eggs4 ,or the following lotion rubbed into the hands well will answer the same purpose3 ,cologne1 #b ounces2 lemon juice1 #b ounces2 liquid honey1 #b ounces4 ,much is asked1 and much from time to time answered1 about the care of the arms1 yet an attractive arm may be hopelessly marred by an ugly elbow4 ,resolve that your arms are only as pretty as your elbows1 and set to work upon them4 ,first examine them closely and while you examine them keep in mind the standard for a lovely elbow4 ,to be lovely it should be little in evidence1 so little1 in fact1 that it seems to be merely an appearing and disappearing feature--so to speak--a dimple playing peekaboo4 ,instead of this what do you probably see8 ,a sharp1 bony corner1 or a mass of unsightly wrinkles1 in either case darker than the surrounding flesh4 ,almost certainly the skin covering it is dark and rough1 8a patch of goose-flesh0 a young girl complained when dressing for a dance4 ,now what is to be done8 ,try first to rid the elbows of their disfiguring redness or darker color4 ,rub them every night before retiring with a half grape fruit4 ,this is better than a lemon because the elbow can settle into it and work about it4 ,if you place the halves of grape fruit on a table and rest your elbows in them you can read or chat or meditate and leave the elbows to their bleaching for an indefinite time4 ,repeat this every night until you notice an improvement in their color4 ,but do not be satisfied with this progress4 ,scrub the elbows daily with warm water and a bleaching soap4 ,one of the peroxide soaps would be useful4 ,or use castile soap with water1 into which you have sprinkled a few drops of peroxide of hydrogen or of ammonia4 ,an ingenious girl ,i know bound slices of lemon on her elbows every night before going to bed4 ,while this is not as quickly efficacious as the grape fruit it is cheaper4 ,when this gradual whitening of the elbows has been accomplished take the next step in their beautifying1 which is smoothing them4 ,if they are very rough1 scrub them with a pumice stone that has been dipped into warm water4 ,rub the roughened spots gently with this1 and slowly1 lest you irritate the skin4 ,then apply cold cream or olive oil to allay even any tendency to irritation4 ,or if they are only slightly roughened1 rubbing them round and round with fingers that have been spread with cocoanut oil is enough1 if long continued1 to soften them4 ,if the elbows are very sharp massaging the flesh about them with palms well greased with mutton tallow should in time nourish them into roundness4 ,,chapter ,v ,,massage ,,as ,a ,,beautifier ,massage is of two kinds--good and bad4 ,it is good or bad1 according to the knowledge and skill of the masseuse4 ,i have a profound1 unshakable belief in the efficacy of massage4 ,it is my cure-all4 ,i rarely take medicine4 ,almost never in all my life1 in fact4 ,for long ago ,i heard what your ,american poet1 ,oliver ,wendell ,holmes wrote3 8,if all the drugs were thrown into the sea it would be hard on the fishes1 but it would be better for humanity40 ,that1 from a man who knew medicine deeply impressed me4 ,that which will most interest readers of this book1 probably1 will be the consideration of massage as a beautifier4 ,in that aspect ,i most earnestly recommend it4 ,for half my life ,i have had my face massaged frequently1 and for many years ,i have had it massaged every day4 ,with what result8 ,that my face is absolutely free from lines4 ,that my complexion is smooth and absolutely free from blemishes4 ,i resolved that it should approach the smoothness and clearness of an infant's skin if care could achieve that effect1 and ,i have succeeded4 ,moreover1 there is no abnormal growth of hair upon the face4 ,with pleasure ,i lay the ghost of that fiction against massage4 ,despite all that we hear to the contrary1 the friction has not caused the growth of the tiniest of beards4 ,if you entrust the massage of your face to a masseuse1 be sure that she has had proper instruction and considerable experience4 ,bad massage is much worse than none1 for it will cause wrinkles instead of removing them4 ,the masseuse must know the geography1 as it were1 of the muscles4 ,she must learn to follow instead of countering those muscles4 ,to make this quite clear1 let me quote from the usually baffling words of a medical authority1 ,dr4 ,william ,murrell1 of the ,royal ,college of ,physicians of ,london3 8,the individual muscles1 or groups of muscles1 are picked out or isolated and mechanically stimulated to contraction4 ,the movements must be made in the direction of the muscle fibers1 and the tips of the fingers must be carried along in the interstitia1 so as to promote the flow of lymph and increase tissue metamorphosis4 ,the manipulations are carried out systematically in definite order with a definite object40 ,massage promotes circulation4 ,by promoting circulation it nourishes parts of the body in which circulation is ordinarily defective4 ,the well nourished portions of the body are the last to grow old4 ,the best illustration is perhaps those regions of the ,western part of the ,united ,states where there is little rain4 ,these regions would be waste places if it were not for irrigation4 ,canals are made that tap the nearest rivers4 ,from these canals ditches are dug4 ,the ditches form a vein-like network of little streams that feed the arid land4 ,so massage stimulates sluggish circulation and nourishes the muscles that might otherwise grow flabby and the skin that would grow dry and wrinkled4 ,the face must be massaged with a nourishing cream4 ,this is one that cleanses as well as feeds the skin1 and is simple and especially grateful in midsummer3 ,almond oil1 #b ounces2 spermaceti1 ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 cucumber juice1 #a ounce4 ,after facial massage with a cold cream some women of exceedingly sensitive skins choose to bathe the face in this or a similar lotion3 ,tincture of benzoin1 #a ounce2 tincture of vanilla1 #d drams2 sweet almond oil1 #c ounces2 bitter almond oil1 #a dram2 spermaceti1 #e drams2 white wax1 #e drams2 lanolin1 #a ounce2 witch hazel1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #c ounces4 ,having first had your face massaged several times by an expert masseuse you can learn the movements yourself and massage your own face4 ,some become deft at self-facial massage in a short time4 ,some who have clumsy fingers1 or a lack of perception1 never master the art4 ,some beautiful women never entrust their faces to a masseuse1 ,i am told4 ,first look to the shadowy new lines upon your face4 ,if there be none1 consider where the lines form when you laugh1 when you frown1 when you sulk1 or when you cry4 ,anticipate these lines by nourishing well the muscles in those regions4 ,the wrinkle regions of a woman's face are four4 ,the first is about the outer corners of the eyes4 ,the wrinkles there formed have been known for many ages as crow's feet1 because they radiate outward in somewhat the fashion that a bird's toes are disposed4 ,they might as fittingly be called chicken's toes1 or pigeon's toes1 or eagle's toes4 ,they are supposed to be the ineradicable1 unmistakable signs of age4 ,the truth is1 they are the paths of laughter1 and indicate a merry disposition4 ,i have seen them on the face of a boy of twelve4 ,i have seen them strongly marked on the countenance of a young woman of twenty-one4 ,they are the measures of the laughing capacity of the person who bears them4 ,in that light they are the least ugly of the wrinkles2 yet wrinkles they are1 and at best wrinkles are undesirable4 ,to remove crow's feet1 dip the tips of the fingers in one of the good massage creams1 and with the second and third fingers rub the area affected with a rotary motion1 working from the corners of the eyes outward4 ,more disfiguring than the crow's feet1 because of more ignoble origin and more difficult to erase1 are the diagonal lines from the nostrils to the corner of the lips4 ,they are known variously as the 8bad temper lines10 the 8emotional lines10 the 8lines of discontent40 ,using the middle finger1 the massage should begin at the corners of the mouth1 and should end where the lines end1 at the nostrils4 ,this movement should also be a rotary one4 ,it should be deeper and firmer than that about the eyes4 ,the third of the wrinkle areas1 and the one in which the wrinkles first appear in most faces1 is the forehead4 ,one of your ,american women doctors said that the signs upon the forehead are unmistakable and infallible ones4 8,when a woman has three transverse lines across the forehead ,i know that she is twenty-seven10 said this woman physician4 8,when she has two vertical lines between the eyes ,i know that she is forty-five40 ,this is interesting1 but untrue4 ,i know half a dozen women of fifty who have neither of these groups of telltale lines4 ,in massaging the lines of the brow1 remember the general rule for massage4 ,the movement must be in contrary direction from the line4 ,for instance1 the vertical lines between the eyes must be treated by the second finger of each hand and must be rotary and upward1 branching above the eyes with a gently diminishing motion to the right and left toward the temples4 ,the transverse lines1 forming as they do by a creasing of the skin from bottom to top1 should be massaged by a rotary motion from the bottom to the top of the forehead4 ,the fourth of the danger zones is that in front of the ears4 ,the vertical lines in front of the ears are believed to betoken advancing age4 ,yet1 like those about the eyes1 they are misleading4 ,they sometimes appear on the faces of infants4 ,the manner in which the ear is set accounts largely for the presence of these wrinkles4 ,if it is set out from the head prominently the skin is loose in front of the ear and falls readily into wrinkles4 ,if the ear sets close to the head the skin in front of the ear is drawn taut1 and the so-called age-betraying wrinkles never appear4 ,to check this fold of skin is almost impossible if the ear stands out from the head4 ,to retard its deepening1 use the middle finger for massage1 and with deep1 firm motion push slowly upward toward the top of the ear4 ,the lines on the neck behind the ears distress some women4 ,to correct them1 massage with the first and second and third fingers deeply upward toward the hair4 ,massage of the body is prescribed by many physicians for nervous disorders1 for defective circulation and for reduction of flesh1 for insomnia and other disorders4 ,while invaluable1 it should only be given by a skillful masseuse1 preferably one recommended by a reliable physician4 ,of all systems of massage the ,swedish is regarded as best4 ,its operators must study their art for two years4 ,if a woman be thin this massage emollient is agreeable and adds to her weight3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #f ounces2 oil of bitter almonds1 #bj drops2 balsam of tolu1 #d grams2 benzoin1 #d grams2 essence of orange1 #f drops2 essence of cajeput1 #f drops4 ,if the patient be plump1 talcum powder is the only aid to the hands of the masseuse required4 ,the beautiful woman has points4 ,let us enumerate them3 ,a figure graceful in outline1 not too thin1 nor too fat4 ,a face that is fascinating1 and by fascinating ,i mean interesting4 ,but to make it interesting it must have what8 ,features that are well proportioned1 let us say regular4 ,they must seem to belong to one's own face and no other4 ,the nose must not be too large nor too small1 but just large enough for the face in which it is set4 ,illustration3 ,,pauline ,,frederick ,painters and sculptors agree in giving her high rank among the most beautiful living women4 ,how to keep the lines of that face as good as they were at the beginning1 or better8 ,it is most important4 ,the nose should be massaged--intelligently massaged4 ,the owner of the nose herself can do it quite as well if not better than any other4 ,if the nose is too broad1 she should massage it delicately toward the point4 ,if it is too sharp1 she should massage it away from the point to the flare of the nostrils1 always with the merest points of the cushions of her fingers4 ,to keep its normal whiteness it should have often1 at least once a day1 a hot compress of cotton dipped in rosewater or other distilled water1 spread upon it4 ,and after that there should be a dash of cold water upon it to close the pores4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,what ,,to ,,do ,,for ,,the ,,feet ,the beautiful foot is that of the baby4 ,it is beautiful because it is natural1 unmarred by ill-fitting1 cramping1 distorting shoes4 ,just in so far as the foot has departed from its original shape and habit is it less than perfect4 ,it is hard1 indeed1 to find a beautiful foot4 ,the story is told of a ,new ,york sculptor who1 searching for a perfect foot1 dismissed three thousand models who were applicants for the honor1 declaring that there was not one beautiful foot among them4 ,by the established modern standard1 the foot should be neither small nor large1 though it is preferable that it be small rather than large4 ,the tiny foot of a large woman is absurd4 ,it suggests deformity4 ,so does the short foot on the tall woman4 ,the foot should seem to belong to the woman1 not to have been loaned to her for the occasion4 ,like her hand1 it should seem to be in perfect harmony with the rest of her body4 ,if the owner be plump1 the foot should not be thin4 ,if she be thin1 the foot should not be plump4 ,it should be neither bony nor too fat4 ,the bones should be well covered1 but their outline should be plain1 enough to give a certain distinction called 8character0 to the foot4 ,the toes should spread comfortably apart1 yet there should not be unseemly spaces between them4 ,the spaces should be slight and even like those between regular and well-kept teeth4 ,the skin should be smooth and pinky white4 ,the nails should be strong but smooth and semi-transparent and delicately pink4 ,above all1 there should be no blemish1 no disfiguring corn on the small toes1 no enlargement of the joints1 nor bunions1 no calloused spot upon the sole4 ,the high-bred foot lies1 according to existing standards1 not flat upon the ground1 but rests upon the heel and front part of the sole1 so that a rill of water may easily run under it4 ,to correspond with this natural bridge1 there must also be an arched instep4 ,this is the standard4 ,now how to achieve it4 ,first1 wear shoes that are large enough and let them be of soft1 pliable leather4 ,large enough1 ,i said1 but not too large4 ,the foot that slips about in large shoes is as likely to get callous disfigurements as the one that is pinched4 ,heavy leather and thick soles have no place on a woman's delicate feet4 ,the stiff1 unyielding boot may be all right upon the masculine foot1 and it may keep more perfect upon the inch-thick sole1 but the skin of a woman's foot is too tender for this4 ,the leather should be close but fine1 the soles of medium thickness4 ,but ,i cannot lay too much emphasis upon the need of a straight1 even heel on the shoe4 ,the heel is to the shoe what the cornerstone is to the house4 ,it is quite as necessary that it be well laid1 straight and secure4 ,the crooked heel threatens the health as the insecure cornerstone the security of the house4 ,the run-down heel disturbs the adjustment of the internal organs4 ,it pushes some of them close upon each other1 draws others away from their natural support4 ,it destroys the balance of the foot1 causing blisters and callous spots4 ,it throws the weight where it should not be1 doing violence to the center of gravity4 ,watch your heels as closely as you should the running time of your watch4 ,when the bottoms of the heels disclose an inclined plane at the back or the sides1 you will find a corresponding blister or newly formed callous spot on the sole4 ,your ounce of prevention is sending the shoes to a cobbler the moment you see the hint of crookedness in the heels4 ,they can be planed or built up to their former evenness at very slight expense4 ,the money spent thus is much less than the fee of a chiropodist that you will save4 ,having formed the habit of wearing comfortable shoes--and let me say here that ,american shoes are the best and that ,i always wear them--see that the feet are released often from their prison4 ,even the best pair of shoes is a prison4 ,in your own room wear the ,japanese sandals that protect the delicate soles from the floor1 but that leave the toes free to lie loosely apart1 though they are secured by strong cross bands4 ,these give the muscles of the feet a chance to relax4 ,they are much better for this purpose than the felt slipper or shoe1 which is too closely woven to permit proper ventilation4 ,the feet1 like that other extreme of the body1 the hair1 need sunlight4 ,think how little the poor1 imprisoned feet get4 ,they need air4 ,how little of that they get4 ,well-shaped feet are so much rarer to-day than they were in the days of the ,romans and ,greeks1 mainly because we imprison them in unventilated1 sun-forbidding shoes instead of wearing the sandal of the ancients1 which gave the feet the light and air they need4 ,it is unfortunate that the arbiters of fashion have not seen fit to condemn modern shoes in favor of the ancient sandal4 ,more harm is done to the feet by the present-day footwear1 than is done to the hair by rats and puffs or to the vital organs by tightfitting corsets4 ,some years ago it did become the fashion for children to wear sandals1 but their elders were not wise enough to follow their example4 ,but if you cannot wear sandals yourselves1 there is no reason why you shouldn't have your children wear them1 for it is even more important that the child's feet be properly taken care of than the adults4 ,in early life1 the bones are naturally soft and may be readily forced out of their normal shapes by any considerable exterior pressure4 ,it is obvious that to maintain the proper contour of the child's feet1 the sandal is much more satisfactory than the shoe4 ,the former permits the feet to be flat on the ground and spreads the toes1 the latter crowds the toes and compresses the whole foot4 ,and adults can improve the condition of their feet by wearing sandals in the house1 even if prevailing fashion does not permit of their wearing them out of doors4 ,to be healthy1 the feet must be kept scrupulously clean4 ,so much are they exposed to the dust of the streets1 especially by those who wear low shoes1 that they need more than the perfunctory share of the morning plunge or shower4 ,they should be bathed every night in a foot-tub containing warm water4 ,if the feet be tender1 the water should contain borax in the proportion of an ounce to a gallon4 ,warm salt water is also very easeful for tired feet1 especially useful for reducing the congestion in swollen feet4 ,this powder1 sprinkled into the warm bathwater1 affords great relief3 ,borax 7powdered71 #a ounce2 sea salt1 #a ounce2 alum1 ounce4 ,use one teaspoonful to a gallon of water4 ,for tired1 swollen feet1 lemon juice1 sprinkled freely into the water1 is a means of alleviation4 ,an easier way to apply it is to cut a lemon in half and rub the soles of the feet with it4 ,calloused spots may be removed from the sole by planing off the rough surfaces with pumice stone4 ,english women give ease to their feet after a long walk by bathing them in an infusion of rosemary leaves4 ,steep the rosemary leaves1 a half ounce to a gallon of water4 ,when cool1 bathe the feet for twenty minutes in the mixture1 adding warm water now and then1 as the water in the foot-tub cools4 ,for feet inclining to excessive perspiration a powder made of these ingredients should be used in the footbath3 ,tannin1 #fj grains2 alum1 #b drams2 lycopodium1 #f drams4 ,one teaspoonful of the powder to a gallon of warm water is sufficient4 ,sensitive feet are much relieved by this remedy1 which is popular in ,england3 ,rosemary leaves1 pound2 juniper berries1 #c ounces2 dried mint1 ounce4 ,boil in three quarts of water4 ,corns are merely hardened portions of the skin usually appearing upon the top of the toes4 ,each speaks loudly of pressure by shoes4 ,no ,indian ever had a corn until he began wearing the white man's boots4 ,corns and bunions are the record of the fact that the shoe1 as many wear it1 is an instrument of torture4 ,if the corns be new and not deep-seated1 they can be removed by self-treatment4 ,soak the feet from fifteen to twenty minutes in warm water1 softened by a few drops of violet ammonia1 or of benzoin4 ,bind a slice of lemon on the toes1 tying it securely with a bandage of white muslin4 ,if the corn responds naturally to the treatment it should be so loose after three or four applications that you can push it out by gentle friction with a towel4 ,never use your finger nails in extracting a corn1 no matter how loose it seems4 ,blood poisoning might result4 ,if the case is more obstinate1 this1 applied with a small camel's hair brush should be quickly efficacious3 ,collodion1 #d grams2 ether 7#fe per cent471 #b grams2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #a gram2 tincture of ,cannabis ,indica1 gram2 salicylic acid1 gram4 ,less expensive is this3 ,collodion1 #a ounce2 salicylic acid1 #a dram2 fluid extract of ,cannabis ,indica1 #a scruple4 ,apply several times a day until the corn is soft enough to be scraped away4 ,if the corns are of the 8soft0 variety that grow between the toes1 absorbent cotton powdered with tannin or alum may be inserted between them4 ,ring plasters to protect the corn from further irritation by the shoe have their friends and foes4 ,i think it much wiser to remove the pressure permanently by abandoning the shoes that caused it4 ,bunions1 or enlarged and inflamed joints1 are the greatest affliction to which suffering feet can be subjected4 ,a new broad pair of shoes with low heels is the best remedy4 ,to assist this remedy1 the joints may be painted three times a day with this simple but strong bunion lotion3 ,tincture of iodine1 #b drams2 carbolic acid1 #b drams2 glycerine1 #b drams4 ,a dainty foot powder should be on every woman's toilet shelf or table1 especially if her feet perspire freely4 ,an excellent one is made like this3 ,florentine orris powder1 #ajj grams2 starch1 #ajj grams2 alcohol1 #aj grams2 phenic acid1 #e grams4 ,this should be sprinkled on the foot before dressing it1 especially throughout the summer4 ,and here is still another foot powder which ,i have used for a long time1 sprinkling a half ounce of it into a foot tub holding two gallons of water1 or dusting my feet with it after the bath3 ,powdered alum1 #a ounce2 powdered boracic acid1 #b ounces2 talcum1 #d ounces2 starch1 #f ounces2 a few drops of perfume at pleasure4 ,this yet simpler powder is much used for perspiring feet3 ,powdered orris root1 #a ounce2 powdered alum1 ounce2 rice powder1 #c ounces4 ,the nails should be cut square across1 except when the formation of the toes1 acquired by close pressure of the toes upon each other1 demands that the nail be cut round to adapt itself to the shape of the toes4 ,at the first sign of an ingrowing toe nail each of two simple remedies may be used4 ,the corner of the nail at the side where the toe is inflamed may be gently lifted and cotton thrust beneath it to relieve the pressure4 ,also at the middle of the upper edge of the nail a tiny ,v may be cut4 ,nature in extra efforts to heal this breach in the nail withdraws her forces from the irritation of the side of the toe4 ,light massage by a skillful masseuse is greatly beneficial to tired feet4 ,dancers1 pedestrians and female cyclists have used this unguent1 rubbing it well into the muscles and about the joints1 to make them more flexible3 ,portugal extract1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce2 brandy1 #a gill2 olive oil1 #c ounces2 mutton tallow1 #d ounces2 virgin wax1 #a ounce2 ambergris1 grain4 ,walking barefoot in the early morning is still a fad of many society women and actresses and singers who have regard for the health of their feet4 ,besides the beauty of the foot and the elastic carriage so secured1 walking with bare feet upon the bare earth is believed by many physicians to be very beneficial in certain cases4 ,it is recommended also as a tonic for the nerves4 ,a good exercise to develop the elasticity of the foot is to sit with the feet scarcely reaching the floor1 and press the fore part of the sole upon the floor4 ,this also strengthens weak ankles4 ,no woman is ever pretty while her feet hurt2 and a horrid male person has been ungallant enough to say that the awkwardest thing in nature is 8a woman with a sore foot40 ,that he didn't exaggerate1 we must admit4 ,what shall we do to stop this wearing of beauty1 this most excruciating of the minor physical ills8 ,we should first look to the cause4 ,is the skin between the toes cracked and sensitive8 ,it is possible that this is a symptom of a uric acid condition4 ,see your physician and let him determine whether it is so4 ,if you have joined the great army of those who have the uric acid diathesis1 be treated accordingly4 ,if the cracks between the toes are caused by the feet being excessively hot1 either of these should complete a cure in a short time3 ,spread zinc ointment over the cracked surfaces2 or1 powder them thickly with ,fuller's earth4 ,if the feet are bathed every night before retiring in tepid water into which a little borax or common table salt has been sprinkled1 there is little likelihood of sensitive1 swollen feet1 or of hardened or calloused portions on the feet4 ,as the evening foot bath is a preventative1 so is it a cure for such conditions1 unless they have reached an extreme stage4 ,if so1 after carefully drying the feet--being careful to dry them thoroughly between the toes so that no soft corns will form there--rub the swollen portions of the feet gently with witch hazel2 or the hard1 calloused portions with olive oil or cold cream4 ,keep several pairs of shoes so that you need not wear the same pair on two successive days4 ,wear a different pair of hose each day1 turning wrong side out and leaving to air the pair that you have worn the previous day4 ,if the feet perspire this remedy is a good one--apply it by dusting the feet with it3 ,borax1 #aj grams2 starch1 #aj grams2 salicylic acid1 #c grams2 powdered alum1 #e grams2 talcum powder1 #ej grams2 naphthol1 #e grams4 ,this simpler preparation can be applied with a camel's hair brush3 ,distilled water1 pint2 bichromate of potassium1 #a drams2 essence of violet1 #a dram4 ,the masculine habit of resting the feet upon another chair than the one occupied by the sitter has its origin in the instinct of self-preservation4 ,the blood flows too freely into the legs and feet that remain too long in a suspended position1 engorging the veins and causing discomfort4 ,it is this condition which men seek to relieve by placing their feet on desks and chairs4 ,it is a habit which women may well imitate when alone--at least to the limit of the height of a chair seat4 ,the 8long chair0 of the ,french meets the need of allowing the legs to lie on a level with a portion of the body while the upper part is in a sitting posture4 ,rest the feet by wearing larger shoes and only cotton stockings4 ,wear sandals without stockings in your room on warm days4 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,the ,,proper ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,mouth ,,and ,,teeth ,to be beautiful one must have an ideal of beauty and strive always to reach it4 ,wishing to make and keep the mouth beautiful1 we must have ever in our minds an image of a beautiful mouth4 ,what must a mouth be to be beautiful8 ,ideals about beauty differ greatly1 but there can scarcely be any difference of opinion about the attributes of an attractive mouth4 ,it must be well shaped4 ,it must be red1 but not too red4 ,the teeth must be1 or seem to be1 perfect4 ,if ,i were harsh enough to criticise ,american women1 ,i should say that their eyes are beautiful1 but their mouths are not so beautiful4 ,i should say that their lips are too thin4 ,i should say also that their teeth are not perfect4 ,i should qualify this by saying that ,i am speaking of the average1 not the exceptional1 ,american woman4 ,the reason for this fault of lips that are too thin and too straight lies chiefly in character1 and there we have a paradox1 for it is not a fault of character4 ,american women have immense self-reliance1 tremendous decision1 and these are written in lips that might be carved from pink marble1 straight1 fine1 unyielding4 ,i would not change those admirable traits of character1 but ,i would use massage to relax the muscles about the lips and remove that drawn expression4 ,the pleasing mouth has lips that curve from thin outer corners to a ripe fullness at the middle4 ,the sweep should be upward to a fine cleft at the middle of the upper lip4 ,a deep cleft just above the upper lip is one of the recognized marks of beauty4 ,the lower lip should be straighter and not so full as the upper4 ,much has been said about the beauties of the lips1 but nothing has been said more illuminative than the phrase 8,cupid's bow40 ,study the gentle sweep of a bow1 held in place by a cord4 ,it adheres to the rule1 8,curves are the lines of beauty40 ,the curve is soft1 tender4 ,it seems to be the blending of countless curves4 ,so the mouth4 ,i once saw the mouth of a cruel woman described as being 8like a slit in a stone wall40 ,i thought the phrase apt4 ,i believe in allowing the mouth to take care of itself4 ,it is its surroundings1 its environment1 so to speak1 that is important4 ,look to the lines from nostrils to lips4 ,see that they are removed by massage4 ,massage restores circulation4 ,massage is like a system of irrigation for waste land4 ,creases are caused by lack of circulation4 ,the muscles that hold the mouth in a firm line are thread-like1 one just above and at the sides of the lips4 ,it is most important to keep these taut by massage4 ,as to color1 ,i have said that the lips should not be too red4 ,the normal lips should be the same color as the gums1 and has not your dentist said to you1 8,your gums are too red1 are not healthy08 ,so the lips should be a deep pink1 or a light red4 ,not blood color1 but three shades at least lighter than a stream of arterial blood4 ,i make this distinction because venous blood may be bluish1 and far from a model for the healthful color of the lips4 ,an ,italian authority on beauty said the beautiful mouth must always be open enough to show five teeth4 ,this is attractive1 but not hygienic4 ,the teeth are to the beauty of the mouth as important as the keystone to an arch4 ,without the keystone there can be no arch4 ,without lovely teeth the beauty of the mouth does not exist4 ,the lips are a promise of beauty4 ,the teeth are its fulfillment4 ,the teeth should be regular4 ,they should not be crowded together1 and there should be no aggressively noticeable spaces between them4 ,they should be white1 or seem white4 ,the unromantic truth is that teeth are never white4 ,they are of three shades1 blue1 yellow and gray1 always one or the other4 ,but in contrast with the lips they look white1 and the more vivid the lips the whiter do the teeth look in contrast4 ,which is the reason1 ,i suppose1 that ,i have seen women with frightfully overcarmined lips4 ,now1 how to make the mouth or keep the mouth well shaped1 red but not too red1 and teeth to be or look perfect4 ,the time to train our mouths to beauty is in our infancy4 ,our mothers should begin the work1 and when we have reached years of intelligence1 we should carry it forward4 ,if an infant's mouth is too large it can be trained to lesser size by tender pinching of the corners4 ,this makes the line at the corners almost indeterminate1 and diminishes the size4 ,need ,i tell any mother that this must be most gently and tenderly done8 ,also train the lips to deepen their beauty cleft by pushing the middle portions together with the first fingers4 ,this light pressure four or five times a day1 when you are dressing the child in the morning and undressing her at night1 will marvelously refashion the mouth4 ,i knew a ,parisian mother who not only made over her child's mouth1 but also the nose into good lines by this light1 discreet pinching4 ,if your mouth is defective1 improve the shape of your lips by avoiding careless habits4 ,many pretty women are disfigured by crude1 careless habits of mouthing their words1 of chewing their lips1 of ridiculous labial contortions while they talk4 ,to correct them1 practice in talking or reciting before a mirror4 ,note whether you draw down the lips while you speak4 ,note whether you catch them between your teeth and nervously chew them4 ,observe whether1 while you make a short speech1 longitudinal lines form on the upper lip4 ,notice whether your smile is simple1 natural1 unexaggerated1 or whether your mouth widens vacuously1 or draws into a prim resemblance to a buttonhole when you smile4 ,when you have determined whether you have any of these bad habits1 determine to cure them1 and do so4 ,there is but one way to cure them1 and that is by remembering your fault and avoiding it4 ,the lips should be lightly massaged before falling asleep4 ,for that massage this is my favorite pomade4 ,you will observe that in no preparation that ,i advise for the lips is any camphor4 ,i dislike camphor for the lips because it is an astringent1 and the mouth is too much inclined to pucker into unlovely lines without its aid4 ,try this3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #abe grams2 white wax1 #bh grams2 spermaceti1 #bh grams2 oil of bergamot1 #a gram2 oil of geranium1 #b grams4 ,this softens the lips1 effacing the tiny lines that form in the lips1 destroying their smooth surface1 during the day4 ,it can be varied by another and simpler remedy3 ,hydrated glycerine 7#ej per cent4 water71 #fj grams2 rosewater1 #bj grams4 ,do not use glycerine alone on the lips nor on any other surface of the body4 ,it is too drying4 ,it has the power to draw moisture from the skin1 and that moisture should by replaced by the water with which the glycerine is mixed4 ,leaving the shape1 we come to the color of the lips4 ,preserve that by keeping the bodily health good4 ,if the circulation is defective the lips will be pale4 ,if we become anmic1 pallid lips will be one of the first signs of our state4 ,to make them healthily red improve the tone of the system by two means4 ,be sure to sleep enough4 ,you may need eight hours or nine4 ,you yourself know which4 ,take it4 ,eat nourishing food4 ,eat often and lightly4 ,that is far better than to eat seldom and heartily4 ,better five light than three heavy meals a day4 ,eat of meat sparingly1 for most meats are hard to digest4 ,once a day1 and that at dinner1 is often enough4 ,but depend greatly upon vegetables and eggs4 ,eggs have much iron in them4 ,so1 too1 have string beans1 spinach and beets4 ,milk1 too1 is an excellent builder of new tissues4 ,if1 after a fortnight1 your lips are still pallid1 try the iron injections ,i have before recommended4 ,do this under a physician's directions and you will surely be vastly benefited4 ,mouth mannerisms are leaks of beauty4 ,self-conscious young women draw down the corners of their mouths when they talk or when they smile4 ,they twist one corner of the mouth downward1 making the mouth one-sided4 ,they even suck the lips inward1 spoiling the contour of the mouth4 ,they rub their faces with nervous fingers4 ,they elevate one eyebrow and pull down the other4 ,they twist locks of their hair4 ,they play with folds of their gowns1 or with their desk ornaments4 ,it is only the deeply learned lesson that it is vulgar to play with articles on the table that keeps them from drumming with their knives and forks or twirling their plates4 ,this is deplorable1 for it not only mars their beauty1 but shows an utter lack of inward calm4 ,they must get into a state of peace1 must harmonize inward with outward conditions4 ,a dozen times a day they must say to themselves and must obey their own command3 8,peace1 be still40 ,talk1 if you will1 but don't talk unless you have something to say4 ,believe me1 you can be interesting though silent1 by being an interested listener4 ,wild1 aimless1 excessively excited talking is one of the biggest leaks of beauty4 ,the mouth1 if too large1 may be lightly massaged by using the middle fingers of each hand to coax it toward the greater fullness at the middle and less at the corners4 ,if it be too small1 rotary massage from the corners of the lips will tend to widen it4 ,if the chin be too strong1 the jaw too heavy1 as it is sure to be in these latter days of new equality1 the fact can be rendered less glaring by dressing the hair well forward above the forehead1 so that there will be a semblance of brow and chin being of equal weight1 and the face seem to be well balanced4 ,if the chin is too weak the hair should be well drawn back1 so that the strength of the brow will seem to make up the character deficit4 ,for lips that chap easily and always have a parched look let me advise that this pomade be applied every night1 freely massaged into the lips3 ,cocoa butter1 #bd grams2 white wax1 #d grams2 oil of rose geranium1 #a gram4 ,this should relieve an ordinary case4 ,if it be an obstinate one1 suppose you try this remedy prescribed by the famous ,dr4 ,vaucaire1 whose commandments are the decalogue of beauty-loving ,paris3 ,castor oil1 #f grams2 cocoa butter1 #bj grams2 oil of birch1 #d drops2 extract of catechu1 #b grams2 essence of star anise1 #aj drops4 ,to make rough lips smooth try this3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 oil of rose1 #f drops4 ,melt together slowly1 then work into a firm cream4 ,the gums should be of a healthy red4 ,if they look pale massage them gently for five minutes several times a day with this compound3 ,woundwort water1 #ajj grams2 horseradish extract1 #ab grams2 oil of cloves1 #a drop4 ,dilute with an equal quantity of water4 ,the wholesome woman tries to keep her breath as 8sweet as the kine's10 recalling the exclamation of ,byron4 ,she keeps a jar of bicarbonate of soda on her bathroom shelf and takes a teaspoonful in a glass of water whenever needed4 ,she always drinks two or three glasses of cool water slowly on rising4 ,this is because when the stomach is in the tubular shape that it is in the morning it lends itself easily to the work done by the water1 of cleansing the stomach for its work of the day4 ,to correct acid conditions of mouth or stomach she takes a couple of unsweetened charcoal tablets now and then1 and this is her favorite mouth pastille3 ,unsweetened chocolate1 #a ounces2 white sugar1 ounce2 charcoal powder1 ounce4 ,these are more easily taken if mixed to the consistency of paste by the addition of dissolved gum arabic1 cooled and cut into tablets4 ,for the care and preservation of the teeth four things are essential4 ,they are3 ,proper diet1 proper tooth brush1 proper tooth powders or pastes1 and proper mouth baths4 ,but beyond any doubt the first safeguard is to have a reliable1 skillful dentist--if you can make sure of finding one4 ,one may go on for years with false confidence in a dentist before one finds out her sad mistake4 ,i go to a dentist once a month to have my teeth examined4 ,no one should let more than three months at most pass without a visit to the dentist for an inspection of the teeth4 ,the best dentist is none too good4 ,the careless or ignorant or lazy or dishonest dentist may cause irreparable damage4 ,and the saddest part of it is that we are at the mercy of the dentist1 because we cannot know whether his work is good or bad until the damage is done4 ,there often come on the teeth1 particularly between them where food is permitted to lodge1 small dark stains1 which really are the first warnings or premonitory signs of decay4 ,if allowed to remain1 the enamel eventually disintegrates1 and we have a cavity1 which must then be excavated and filled4 ,before this discoloration has advanced to an actual breaking down of the tooth structure1 it may very properly and successfully be removed or polished away by the dentist's engine and the sandpaper disc used for this purpose and for smoothing gold fillings4 ,the honest dentist will do this1 and restore the tooth to its original color and soundness1 after which it may be1 with care1 indefinitely preserved1 but the unscrupulous dentist may1 of course1 construe this suspicious-looking spot as caries1 and he may wickedly cut away sound tooth surface1 fill in with the customary unsightly gold or amalgam1 and the unsuspecting victim pays the bill and departs none the wiser4 ,of course1 in front teeth it is especially a misfortune to make a cavity where it could have been avoided4 ,let us consider now the diet4 ,we must avoid extremes4 ,the ,english girl's answer to the question1 8,why do you have such beautiful complexions80 might as well have been made to another query3 8,why do ,english girls have such beautiful teeth80 ,the girl replied3 8,because we never eat anything very sweet or sour1 nor anything very hot or cold40 ,that is an excellent rule4 ,whoever follows it will adopt an admirable dietary4 ,also live if possible in a region whose soil is strongly impregnated with lime4 ,that its soil is so strongly impregnated with lime is the reason why the ,bluegrass region of ,kentucky is as famous for the beauty of its women as of its horses4 ,much lime in the soil means much lime in the products thereof1 and whoever eats of these products has strong bones and correspondingly strong teeth4 ,but we may not all live in ,kentucky1 and unfortunately there is not enough lime soil to extend over the world4 ,so we must make up for this lack by careful attention to our diet4 ,let me explain why the diet is of so great importance4 ,those foods which contain lime strengthen the teeth4 ,fifty-four and seven-tenths of the composition of the teeth is phosphate of lime1 when they are in normal condition4 ,to get as much lime as possible into the system1 and so into the teeth1 is as necessary as to have as much iron as possible in the framework of the house4 ,the iron in the framework of the house will resist fire4 ,the lime in the teeth will prevent their softening and decay4 ,therefore1 gluten and whole wheat bread and the cooked cereals1 instead of cakes and white bread and sweets1 should be eaten4 ,these should be supplemented by various preparations of phosphates to introduce lime into the system4 ,a simple lime water1 which can be prepared by any housewife or any intelligent employ of a housewife1 is one of the best of these preparations3 ,clean1 unslacked lime1 #a teacupful2 water1 #b quarts4 ,put the lime into a pitcher and pour the water over it4 ,stir the mixture1 or shake it until it looks like milk4 ,then pour off the water4 ,fill the pitcher again with pure water4 ,again stir or shake thoroughly4 ,tie over the pitcher a piece of muslin to keep out the dust and possible floating germs4 ,let it stand in a clean1 cool place until the water is clear4 ,pour the clear portion into clean1 glass-stoppered bottles4 ,another method is to use a tablespoonful of lime water in a tumbler of milk4 ,if the teeth are soft from deficiency of mineral salts or sensitive from the presence of excessive acids the dose can be increased to two or three tablespoonfuls4 ,it is well after eating acid fruits to rinse the mouth carefully two or three times with lime water or any alkaline mouth wash4 ,or when the teeth have been irritated1 or unpleasantly affected1 or the gums irritated by a food or medicine to which they are unaccustomed it is well to rub precipitated chalk about the necks of the teeth and between the teeth4 ,it is well also to rinse the mouth with milk of magnesia at night before retiring4 ,again let me suggest that diet is of immense importance for two reasons4 ,if the diet be an unwise one it may create an excess of uric acid1 which makes itself manifest in the mouth and causes the teeth to decay about the necks1 that is1 the portion enclosed by the gums1 a state to be avoided1 for the cavities thus formed are hard to reach and are the most painful to be operated upon by the dentist4 ,again1 the diet is important because if there is an undue fermentation or any other unwholesome condition in the stomach the gases and acids arising from these discolor the teeth4 ,therefore1 avoid1 as ,i have said1 articles of diet that are very sweet or very sour1 and articles of drink that are very hot or very cold4 ,for example1 do not eat candy1 pastry1 puddings1 except those consisting chiefly of fruit2 ices1 pickles or sour oranges or grape fruit4 ,do not drink sour lemonade1 nor limeade4 ,avoid ice water or very hot tea or coffee4 ,i am extremely careful about my diet1 quite as much for the care of my teeth as for my complexion4 ,as soon as ,i rise in the morning ,i place my tooth brush1 which should be soft and shaped to fit the teeth1 in a mug of hot water4 ,i let it remain there for a half hour1 until ,i have had my bath and my alcohol rub4 ,this hint ,i received from my dentist1 who said that it would make the bristles soft1 besides swelling them so that they would fill the spaces for them in the brush1 and thus prevent the bristles from loosening and detaching themselves from the brush and irritating the gums4 ,always use a good tooth powder or paste which a reliable chemist has analyzed and pronounced pure4 ,simple1 pleasant and beneficial to gums and teeth is this3 ,camphor gum1 #a ounce2 precipitated chalk1 #e ounces2 pulverized orris root1 #c ounces4 ,a good variant of this is the following3 ,precipitated chalk1 pound2 powdered starch1 pound2 powdered orris root1 pound2 sulphate of quinine1 dram4 ,one of my own favorite powders is made according to this formula3 ,carbonate of magnesia1 powdered1 #c ounces2 powdered orris root1 #a ounce2 powdered sugar1 #a ounce2 castile soap1 ounce2 powdered precipitate of chalk1 #aj ounces2 oil of roses1 #be drops2 oil of lemon1 #e drops2 oil of wintergreen1 #e drops2 tannin1 #ae drops4 ,i recommend also this as helpful and agreeable3 ,precipitated chalk1 pound2 powdered borax1 pound2 powdered myrrh1 pound2 powdered orris root1 dram4 ,another simple and effective preparation is this3 ,powdered chalk1 #b ounces2 oil of peppermint1 #b drops4 ,a good antiseptic powder for occasional use ,i have found to be this3 ,bicarbonate of soda1 #a ounce2 cinnamon1 #a ounce2 oil of cinnamon1 #b drops4 ,if my teeth are discolored ,i brush them thoroughly with this powder3 ,sugar of milk1 #bjj grams2 powdered catechu1 #c grams2 oil of peppermint1 #d drops2 oil of anise1 #d drops2 oil of orange flower1 #d drops4 ,pour into the sugar of milk a few drops of alcohol4 ,add the catechu1 stirring them thoroughly4 ,sift them through bolting cloth and sprinkle the oil of peppermint1 the oil of anise and the oil of orange flower into the powder4 ,another which is less expensive1 and is also excellent1 is this3 ,precipitated chalk1 #ejj grams2 pulverized orris root1 #bej grams2 pulverized camphor gum1 #ab grams2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #aj drops4 ,this should be sifted through bolting cloth to remove lumps that might irritate the gums4 ,it has always been my habit to use powder only once a day and that in the morning4 ,i think it enough1 because too much tooth powder in time wears away the enamel4 ,yet my dentist tells me that the best time to use tooth powder is at night1 because the salivary glands1 being quiet during sleep1 when we do not talk or eat1 do not then secrete the saliva1 whose flow has a cleansing action4 ,after each meal ,i use dental floss1 drawing it between the teeth to remove any particles of food that may have lodged between them4 ,hard toothpicks are liable to crack the enamel4 ,also ,i give the mouth a bath1 that is1 ,i thoroughly rinse it several times with a good mouth wash4 ,of preparations for liquid dentifrices and mouth baths there is no end4 ,this1 8the bath of roses10 is my favorite1 and ,i rinse my mouth with it after each meal and before retiring3 ,tincture of orris root1 #h drams2 spirit of roses1 #h fluid drams2 alcohol1 #ie per cent41 #h fluid drams4 ,an agreeable preparation for a mouth bath is made of3 ,powdered borax1 #c drams2 honey water1 #b ounces2 castile soap 7powdered71 #a ounce2 warm water1 #a pint2 oil of cloves1 #b drops4 ,dissolve the powdered soap in the warm water4 ,add the other ingredients and shake well4 ,either of the following washes will be found excellent for the teeth3 ,tannic acid1 #a ounce2 oil of wintergreen1 #a dram2 powdered orris root1 #d ounces2 alcohol1 #d ounces2 water1 #d ounces4 ,tincture of orris root1 #a ounce2 tincture of musk1 #d drops2 oil of rose1 #b drops2 oil of neroli1 #d drops2 oil of peppermint1 #d drops2 oil of spearmint1 #d drops2 oil of ylang ylang1 #a drop2 alcohol1 #c ounces2 water1 #h ounces4 ,here is one which1 besides being agreeable1 has a medicinal value in being a disinfectant3 ,thymol1 #c grains2 alcohol1 #c ounces2 benzoic acid1 #dj grains2 tincture of eucalyptus1 #c drams2 essence wintergreen1 #e drops4 ,easily obtainable1 too1 is this and very soothing to irritated gums3 ,permanganate of potash1 #aj grains2 distilled water1 #a ounce4 ,another simple mouth wash which ,i have frequently employed with good results is made as follows3 ,chlorate of potash1 #b drams2 rosewater1 #f ounces4 ,for a mouth bath after a meal a solution made by adding a tablespoonful of bicarbonate of soda to a tumbler of water is useful4 ,use dental floss more and the toothbrush less4 ,the toothbrush should be soft and should be shaped to adapt itself to the teeth4 ,it should slant toward the front1 with a tuft on the end so that the bristles can work their way into all the crevices between the teeth4 ,i am glad that toothpicks have come to be classed with vulgar things4 ,a member of ,parliament at a dinner in ,london played nervously with his toothpick and thrust the end of it into his finger4 ,the toothpick had harbored some dangerous microbe1 for the statesman had to have two fingers amputated4 ,the danger of infection from toothpicks is great4 ,dental floss being protected from vagrant germs by its casing1 and the end being cut off as soon as used1 is much safer1 besides being less irritant to the tender gums4 ,if the teeth are not straight1 have them straightened4 ,if there are wide spaces between them have them drawn closer together4 ,dentists can do this by fastening rubber bands about the neck of the teeth4 ,it is tedious and painful1 but it is worth while4 ,for a tiny space1 but an undue one between the teeth1 may change the natural expression of the face4 ,i know an ,american statesman1 whose face is of the strong1 noble lines of a statue of granite1 but who takes on a fatuous expression when he smiles1 because there is a considerable space between his two upper front teeth4 ,after the teeth are drawn into their proper place1 they are secured by small bands of gold or by a rod at the back of the teeth4 ,if the teeth are permanently discolored it may be because you need a dentist's services4 ,it is well to call on him at least every three months4 ,every two months is still better4 ,his examination will show any fault in the teeth that may be a tiny one1 but which if neglected for three months longer would be troublesome4 ,frequent visits to conscientious dentists are best for your teeth and best for your purse4 ,the teeth are the most important of the appointments1 the furnishings1 so to speak1 of the mouth4 ,they must be kept perfect at all costs of care and forethought4 ,but they1 like all portions of a woman's body1 must be delicately treated4 ,tooth powder should not be used more than once a day4 ,and that in the morning4 ,for the rest dental floss and a delicate liquid dentrifice after each meal and before retiring4 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,duties ,,every ,,woman ,,owes ,,to ,,her ,,hair ,it is ,monday1 and ,i note that my hair does not respond readily to the brush2 that it lies lifeless under my fingers2 that instead of being a live1 bushy1 glowing mass1 it has diminished to a wisp scarcely larger than my two fingers4 ,it is as though some witch in a rage had plucked it1 hair by hair1 from my head as ,i slept4 ,but that has happened too often to give me alarm4 ,once ,i wept over it4 ,i thought that ,i was to become as the shiny-headed men that sit in the first rows of the opera and stare and stare4 ,but that was long ago4 ,now ,i know when my hair shows these symptoms that it is dead1 but only temporarily1 and that with care ,i can resurrect it1 make it live again4 ,with this lifeless condition of the hair ,i have always found two corresponding conditions of the scalp4 ,the scalp is hot and dry4 ,also1 the brushing reveals dandruff--light1 fine and profuse4 ,it is a condition that must be corrected4 ,first remove the dandruff4 ,hair cannot thrive when that fine1 light powder lies upon the scalp1 obstructing its pores4 ,to rid one's self of it the hair must be washed1 not once but often4 ,i resolve upon washing it every day for a week4 ,i choose the time when ,i have had my bath4 ,in the water ,i have dissolved half a cake of the best soap ,i can get4 ,if upon analysis it is proven to be made of spermaceti all the better4 ,i always have a new soap analyzed1 as ,i do a new cold cream4 ,i part my hair1 and1 dipping a small brush the size of an ordinary toothbrush into the water1 rub the parting vigorously4 ,i part it again1 and rub that parting1 and the next1 and the next1 scrubbing it1 as you say in this country1 strenuously with the brush dipped in soapy water4 ,when this has been done ,i empty the bowl1 and in a second water1 in which the other half of the cake of soap is dissolved1 ,i wash the hair again1 but this time rub the scalp1 not with the brush1 but with my fingers4 ,then again and again and again1 until the water is as clean as when it runs from the faucet1 ,i rinse the hair4 ,now comes the problem of drying it4 ,the hair that is dried in the hot funnel becomes brittle and cracks4 ,if it is dried by draughts of cold air its owner contracts neuralgia4 ,it should be dried first by a brisk toweling4 ,the towel should be rubbed quickly through the hair and upon the scalp1 taking the first dripping stage of moisture from each of them4 ,the rest of the drying should be done by the heat of the hands4 ,with the tips of the fingers every bit of space on the scalp should be rubbed until dry4 ,as the scalp dries the hair dries1 too4 ,last1 that the hair may not hang together in matted strands1 but stand fluffily1 each hair for itself1 there should be the last stage of the drying4 ,this is the rubbing of the hair1 strand by strand1 between the hands4 ,even this one shampoo will prove that the hair that seemed to be dead is1 after all1 very much alive4 ,after the drying the hair should1 of course1 be brushed--adequately brushed4 ,but there are curious ideas among women in this country as to what is adequate brushing4 ,american friends of mine give the hair one hundred1 even two hundred1 strokes4 ,i think this is too many4 ,excessive brushing drags upon the hair and loosens its roots4 ,forty strokes of the brush ,i believe to be quite enough4 ,less brushing1 more massaging1 is what is needed by all heads1 especially the heads on which the hair is thinning4 ,after the forty strokes of the brush there should be massage4 ,dry massage always4 ,if you begin with dry fingers you will find that your fingers soon become oily4 ,the sebaceous glands yield their contents quickly to the pressure of fingers1 and the released oil softens the hair and sets the tide of growth pouring into it4 ,it is well at this time to give the hair a sun and air bath4 ,the hair is precious1 a splendid frame for the face1 and you can afford to give much time to saving it4 ,sit or stand near an open window4 ,let the sunshine pour its tonic into your hair4 ,let the air sweep through and about it4 ,it will respond to the treatment as an invalid to his first drive after a long illness4 ,let the hair rest as much as possible4 ,decline invitations1 or1 if you have accepted them1 cancel the engagements4 ,you can dispense with a few perfunctory meetings and greetings1 a cup or two of tea1 rather than with so important a part of your beauty as shining1 healthful hair4 ,remain in your boudoir1 with your hair loosened and hanging4 ,when it is necessary to be visible to the world wear it in a somewhat different way1 and use fewer hairpins4 ,on ,tuesday ,i would use a different and more stimulating shampoo3 ,pure liquid soap1 #ajj grams2 carbonate of potassium1 #bj grams2 distilled water1 #b liters4 ,these should be boiled until the soap is dissolved1 then let cool4 ,when cool add from #bjj to #ejj grains of tincture of vanilla or other favorite perfume4 ,a handful of this shampoo in a bowl of warm water will cleanse the hair of any dust it may have accumulated since ,monday4 ,the hair is now thoroughly clean4 ,the next step is to stimulate it4 ,for this purpose use the camomile mixture1 made as follows3 ,two handfuls of camomile2 two quarts of water4 ,boil until the mixture is as black as after-dinner coffee4 ,usually fifteen minutes are quite enough4 ,pour it into two more quarts of cold water and place in a gallon jar4 ,massage the scalp with it after the shampoo4 ,this is a favorite preparation in ,france4 ,there no grease nor oil is used on the hair4 ,to encourage the hair to grow an application of a good quinine mixture is a great aid4 ,during the afternoon of the second day that ,i go into seclusion for my hair's sake ,i massage the scalp lightly with such a tonic4 ,or ,i apply it before going to bed4 ,many of the quinine mixtures sold in the drug stores ,i have used with good effect1 after having had them analyzed by chemists4 ,here is a preparation which a friend becoming bald used to secure a splendid new lot of hair4 ,were ,i in so serious a state ,i might also use it3 ,precipitated sulphur1 #aj grams2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #aj grams2 distilled water1 #ej grams2 rosewater1 #ej grams4 ,and here is another which1 were my case radical1 ,i would use3 ,alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #ajj grams2 acetone1 #ajj grams2 oil of cade1 #aj grams2 precipitated sulphur1 #bj grams2 pyrogallic acid1 #b grams2 chrysophanic acid1 #bj centigrams2 bichloride of mercury1 #dj centigrams4 ,on ,wednesday ,i would do that which ordinarily ,i should do but twice or three times a year--,i would singe the ends of my hair4 ,then again ,i would shampoo it with the preparation for which ,i gave the first recipe1 and would again give it the tonic of air and sun bath4 ,and again ,i would use the camomile1 but if one prefers to have the aid of the druggist here is a preparation that is much used in ,london with great satisfaction4 ,i shall give it in the ,english measure3 ,resorcine1 #a dram2 chloral hydrate1 #c drams2 sweet almond oil1 #a dram2 chloroform1 #f drams2 eau de cologne1 #f ounces4 ,on ,thursday1 if my hair is not showing great improvement1 ,i may vary my shampoo4 ,here is an excellent cleansing one3 ,extract of witch hazel1 #a pint2 eau de cologne1 #h ounces2 chloroform1 #c drams4 ,on ,friday and ,saturday ,i would repeat this shampoo1 the massage and the sun and air bath4 ,by ,sunday1 with every morning a shampoo1 a massage of the scalp for fifteen minutes--not long enough to irritate the nerves--and the sun and air baths and the repose1 one's hair should be excellently vigorous4 ,if the rigorous treatment should have caused it to be too straight ,i would encourage it to curl by the application of rosewater and gum arabic in these quantities3 ,gum arabic1 #ajj grams2 rosewater1 #djj grams4 ,always in brushing the hair the strokes should be backward1 straight back1 instead of to the sides1 for in that way the hair is aided to grow low on the forehead1 which is a most desirable mark of beauty4 ,before retiring ,i always braid my hair in two loose braids4 ,i never use curling irons when ,i can avoid it4 ,use them cautiously4 ,better not at all1 especially if your hair have a natural wave4 ,if your hair persistently continues to fall out1 it is probably because of a generally lowered tone of your health4 ,i should then resort to iron or arsenic hypodermic injections under the direction of a physician4 ,when ,i have suffered from nervous exhaustion ,i have always taken this treatment at a physician's prescription4 ,i have found the iron particularly upbuilding4 ,i would receive an injection every day for ten days1 then rest three or four days1 then begin again for another ten days until seven weeks have gone4 ,always at the end of that time ,i have felt rejuvenated4 ,and after my complexion my hair was the first to improve4 ,never attempt this without medical direction1 ,i repeat4 ,the injections of iron ,i preferred to taking it internally1 thereby saving the teeth from the bad effects of the iron4 ,also the administering of medicines in this way prevents an unpleasant disturbance of the stomach4 ,if there be an unconquerable objection to the injections a physician will prescribe cod liver oil1 or tablets containing quinine and phosphorus that are a tonic to the system4 ,if the hair be prematurely gray ,i should first take a general treatment for the system1 hoping that the gray hair would fall out and a crop of natural color appear4 ,or if ,i could gain my own consent to dye my hair1 ,i should go to a druggist's and ask for a safe solution of henna4 ,this is the one hair dye which ,i can recommend4 ,it is harmless1 but its range of usefulness is limited for it only dyes the hair red4 ,it is prepared like this3 ,henna leaves1 #a ounce2 boiling water1 #b pints2 henna powder1 #a ounce4 ,place the henna leaves in a stone jar4 ,pour over them the water4 ,allow the liquid to stand undisturbed for twelve hours4 ,then strain and heat until it reaches the boiling point4 ,to the liquid add the henna powder4 ,stir thoroughly and strain once more4 ,the hair must be thoroughly clean when it is applied1 so the best time to apply it is immediately after a shampoo4 ,but do not place too much reliance upon the henna4 ,look to the state of your general health and be sure to keep the scalp cool1 clean and moist4 ,if this is done the next crop of hair--for we raise new hair every three years1 you know--may come in the former natural color and the former unwelcome gray may disappear before the new crop4 ,use a good hair tonic to bring about that condition of the scalp4 ,this is one that has been long and successfully used3 ,glycerine1 #b ounces2 alcohol1 #a pint2 sulphate of quinine1 #a dram2 oil of cloves1 dram2 oil of lemon1 #d ounces2 oil of bergamot1 #a ounce4 ,this1 too1 deserves recommendation3 ,castor oil1 #a gill2 alcohol1 #c pints2 tincture of cantharides1 ounce2 borax1 #b ounces2 water1 #b ounces2 oil of lavender1 #a ounces4 ,shake well before using4 ,the wholesome woman has thick1 lustrous1 clean hair4 ,i am sorry to say that it is necessary to use this last commonplace adjective4 ,but some women there are who neglect the hair until it does not deserve to be so described4 8,she has such clean hair10 a man said to me of an ,american girl who is much admired4 ,when ,i saw the girl ,i knew his appraisement was just4 ,her hair was clean4 ,it was thick1 light brown and slightly curling hair1 just the sort that a careless person might neglect1 saying1 as ,i have heard women say1 8,mine is the kind of hair that takes care of itself40 ,but this girl's hair was as clean as her radiant young face4 ,one received the impression that her hair1 as all the rest of her person1 had as close neighbor the bath4 ,and so it is4 ,her hair being light1 she washes it at least once a week in borax water1 made by dissolving an ounce of borax in a quart of warm water4 ,borax is somewhat drying1 and if she finds her scalp growing too dry she massages the scalp twelve hours before the shampoo with this3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #de grams2 essence of rosemary1 #de grams2 oil of mace1 gram4 ,if the wholesome woman find her hair growing prematurely gray1 and this she is not at all liable to do1 for gray hair is a sign of anmia1 and from this the healthy woman rarely suffers1 she makes her life more than ever wholesome4 ,she lives out of doors the more4 ,she takes more regular sleep and more nourishing food4 ,she is more than ever punctual and thorough as to her exercise4 ,and having done all these she may assist nature with this remedy1 which her less wholesome sister has used with success1 to arrest the turning gray of her hair3 ,good claret1 #cj grams2 sulphate of iron1 gram4 ,to use the cook's parlance1 8,bring these to a boil40 ,keep in a well corked jar in a cold place and wash the hair with it after each shampoo4 ,if necessary it can be used two or three times a week4 ,permit the mixture to dry on the hair4 ,here is another wash that has proved successful when the hair was turning gray3 ,sulphur1 #b ounces2 bay rum1 #h ounces4 ,sulphur to a degree strengthens the pigment--that is1 the natural coloring matter of the hair4 ,use the sulphur in lumps1 for it will not adhere to the scalp as will sulphur in the powder state4 ,if the case be beyond such relief a ,french dressing1 which those who use it disdain to call a dye1 is used by brunettes whose hair has turned prematurely gray3 ,white wax1 #b ounces2 olive oil1 #e ounces2 burnt cork 7powdered fine71 #a ounce4 ,the white wax and oil should be melted together over a slow fire4 ,add the burnt cork and mix well4 ,the mixture should be applied to the hair as a pomade1 and thoroughly brushed in4 ,here is a good corrective for falling hair3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #b ounces2 alcohol1 #b gills2 aqua ammonia1 #b ounces2 good whiskey or rum1 #d ounces2 gum camphor1 ounce4 ,shake thoroughly each time before using and rub thoroughly into the scalp4 ,massage your scalp well1 so that you can feel the skin of the scalp move4 ,for a scalp that is too oily use borax or bicarbonate of soda in the weekly shampoo4 ,a blonde of my acquaintance believes that the juice of one lemon used in the last rinsing water after a shampoo adds to the brilliance of her hair while also drying it enough to make it 8fluffy40 ,allow your hair to be straight1 if ,nature planned it so4 ,find some becoming method of wearing it straight4 ,if the ends have become broken and the hair is thin and uneven set about raising a new and stronger crop4 ,but first prepare the soil for the new crop by cleansing your scalp with frequent shampoos1 one every other day if necessary1 and by using on it a good oil4 ,olive oil is an admirable agent for loosening and feeding a heat-dried scalp4 ,have the ends singed or clipped4 ,massage the scalp every day1 unless it is too tender to endure massage that often4 ,irritating the nerves1 which protest against such treatment1 does far more harm than good4 ,a few applications of electricity by a physician familiar with your case should stimulate the anmic scalp4 ,a few years ago there were almost no good hair tonics4 ,now there are many4 ,almost any tonic containing a liberal amount of quinine is a good hairgrower4 ,here is one much used in ,paris3 ,oil of almonds1 #f ounces2 oil of rosemary1 #b drams2 oil of mace1 #fj drops4 ,an excellent tonic for the scalp is3 ,alcohol1 pint2 oil of mace1 ounce4 ,one that has many advocates is this3 ,fluid extract of jaborandi1 ounce2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 sulphate of quinine1 #aj grains2 cologne1 #b ounces2 rosewater1 #aj ounces2 bay rum1 #b ounces4 ,the wash that has tonic properties in addition to being an excellent cleanser is made as follows3 ,precipitated sulphur1 #aj grams2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #aj grams2 distilled water1 #ej grams2 rosewater1 #ej grams4 ,apply it to the scalp as all other tonics are applied with the tips of the fingers or a soft brush1 for instance1 an old tooth brush4 ,this tonic will keep the scalp cool1 clean and moist and help prevent the hair falling out3 ,tincture of cantharides 7alcoholic71 #a ounce2 spirits of rosemary1 #a ounces2 rose water1 #c ounces2 aromatic vinegar1 #a ounces4 ,parisiennes have recently been washing their hair in gasoline4 ,not because they believe that it will cause the hair to grow1 but for the same purpose that it is used upon a spotted garment--to cleanse the garment and remove the spots4 ,also gasoline makes the hair soft and silken of texture1 ,i am told4 ,i have myself used gasoline a few times on my hair1 but always try to keep it away from the scalp as much as possible4 ,i cannot believe that gasoline is good for the scalp4 ,i take the gasoline shampoo somewhat as ,i do the water bath for the hair4 ,i wash it in a bowl of the gasoline1 pour out the first bowlful and wash it through another1 then another1 until the last bowlful is entirely clean4 ,let as little gasoline as possible get to the scalp4 ,but the shampoo is always taken on the morning of a clear day4 ,never do ,i have it done while there is a light or fire in the room4 ,if ,i did1 there would be no more ,lina ,cavalieri4 ,gasoline is most inflammable and one cannot be too careful when using it4 ,never use vaseline on the hair1 never1 never4 ,it is not harmful4 ,it is merely useless4 ,it no more makes the hair grow than would sprinkling flour over the face make it grow4 ,it is derived from a mineral1 and nothing of mineral origin causes the hair to grow4 ,i never use grease on the hair4 ,after the shampoo1 once a week1 ,i use the camomile lotion ,i have already described1 rubbing it in carefully with the points of the fingers1 and on no account permitting it to touch the face1 because it will make the face yellow4 ,this cleanses the hair and tones the scalp1 promoting circulation4 ,hair to be really beautiful should not lie in heavy1 sticky bands1 but should stand out hair by hair1 as separate as the down of a little chicken4 ,to acquire this use ten drops of ammonia sprinkled in the camomile4 ,it must be added after the mixture has boiled and cooled1 otherwise the ammonia will evaporate4 ,this is the favorite preparation now used in ,france4 ,no beauty nor fashionable woman ever uses oil upon her hair4 ,by keeping it frequently massaged and thoroughly brushed she permits it to develop its own oil4 ,the ,egyptian women have the most beautiful hair in the world4 ,this they owe to henna4 ,sprinkle enough henna in the water to make it the color of coffee4 ,part the hair in little strands and1 with a small handbrush dipped into it1 rub the scalp4 ,the hair1 so beautiful at its best1 so disappointing and even disfiguring at its worst1 has many foes4 ,the greatest of these is the extreme heat of midsummer4 ,under the midsummer sun's rays the hair's rich hue is liable to fade4 ,the country roads powder their dust finely upon it4 ,the heat parches the scalp or causes it to perspire excessively1 and each of these evils1 separately considered1 seems worse than the other4 ,their results are the same1 and the hair rapidly grows thinner4 ,if you are spending your vacation at the seashore beware of the action of the salt water upon your hair4 ,if your hair has been splashed in the surf rinse it thoroughly with fresh water as soon as you leave the beach4 ,be sure that no particles of sea salt adhere to it1 for salt1 so healing and tonic for most of the body1 is the contrary for the hair4 ,keep your scalp in such condition that two words1 8,cool0 and 8,clean10 will always describe it4 ,if the scalp be cool and clean the hair will be beautiful4 ,if the scalp be not cool and clean the hair will speedily reveal that fact4 ,how to keep it so during the summer is a problem that every woman must be careful to solve according to her surroundings and facilities4 ,but somehow she must attain that end if she would preserve the beauty of her hair4 ,keep it free from dust4 ,to do so it must be frequently shampooed--twice as often1 ,i should say1 as in the winter4 ,if1 for instance1 it is your habit to wash your hair every two weeks in winter1 try washing it every week in summer4 ,if it has required a weekly shampoo in winter you will undoubtedly find it necessary to wash it twice a week in midsummer4 ,but you must judge that yourself1 keeping before you the two words 8,cool0 and 8,clean10 which should always be your guides4 ,when the dust from the hair soils the fingers and brush it is time for a shampoo even though for a time the hair must be washed every day4 ,the observant one will notice that so soon as the hair is unclean it falls out4 ,also1 she will observe that an itching scalp precedes almost immediately the falling out of the hair4 ,with these object lessons in cleanliness she should resolve to be vigilant4 ,spare the shampoo and spoil the hair4 ,a good shampoo1 especially for an itching scalp1 contains beside the usual borax for softening the water1 and the castile soap for cleansing the scalp these3 ,white of #b eggs2 juice of #b lemons4 ,apply by rubbing the whites of the eggs thoroughly into the scalp with the tips of the fingers4 ,after this application moisten the scalp thoroughly with the lemon juice diluted in one quart of cool water4 ,for the usual shampoo under ordinary circumstances the essentials are3 ,warm water1 #b quarts2 castile soap 7shaven71 cake2 borax1 #a teaspoonful4 ,i have heard women say3 8,i washed my hair yesterday and to-day it is as bad as ever40 ,if that is true it is your own fault4 ,you did not give it a thorough shampoo4 ,for a thorough shampoo care and nicety are necessary4 ,first prepare the water for a head bath by pouring into the stationary wash stand1 or the portable washbowl or basin1 the soap shavings4 ,over these pour a quart of hot water4 ,with hands or a long handled spoon stir until the soap has dissolved and the substance has become mere lather4 ,part the hair1 which ,i assume has previously been well combed1 from the top of the middle of the forehead to the back of the neck4 ,make similar partings at the sides1 and transverse partings here and there1 as many as possible4 ,with the finger tips1 or with a soft1 old nail brush1 scrub the scalp with this lather4 ,in this way go over the scalp several times1 until it tingles under your very touch1 and the skin is loosened from the scalp beneath4 ,when a fine glow convinces you that this part of the task is well done attack your hair4 ,dip your hands into the lather and taking the hair between them1 wash it thoroughly but carefully with light touch as you would a fine handkerchief4 ,when this has been thoroughly done empty the bowl and wash the hair through a second water4 ,if1 to use the hair dresser's expression1 the 8water runs clear0 you will know that the hair is thoroughly washed4 ,if the water is dark1 showing that the lather has not thoroughly removed the dust apply more lather4 ,then again wash it in cool water4 ,the rinsing is best done with a spray4 ,it should be continued until the water pouring off the hair is as clean as when it flows from the hydrant4 ,the clearness of the rinsing water is the only criterion of whether the hair is clean4 ,the rinsing water should be gradually cooled1 but it should never be cold4 ,it is my opinion that cold water is too severe a shock to the scalp4 ,dry the hair as carefully as you have washed it4 ,never dry with a hot air funnel1 nor at a radiator nor fireplace nor stove4 ,the intense heat makes the hair brittle4 ,a good brisk toweling is a method always available4 ,if you haven't time to dry the hair by toweling wait for the shampoo until you have time4 ,if you can sun dry it so much the better4 ,seated at an open window shake the moisture out of the hair and as it slowly dries massage the scalp with the fingers4 ,the process of drying will be aided and neuralgia prevented by vigorous massage of the scalp4 ,this is an excellent time for the hair's daily airing4 ,the hair needs ventilation as well as your room1 your lingerie1 or your bed linen4 ,every day it should be shaken out and allowed to blow about in the wind4 ,a balcony of a summer cottage is admirable for this purpose4 ,i know an ,english beauty who always gives her hair its airing as she sits under an old apple tree in the back yard of her father's home4 ,a friend of mine shakes her hair down and1 sitting on the deck of her husband's yacht1 lets the wind play hide and seek in it every afternoon4 ,another friend returning by steamship from her vacation trip to ,maine sat up aloft and tumbling her hair about her shoulders let the wind whip it at will4 ,form the habit of always letting your hair down when you sit alone in your room4 ,this half hour or hour's airing gives the hair exercise as well4 ,when a hair hangs by its roots it is gaining the strength it loses while the hair is being supported upon the head by pins4 ,if the treatment of the hair has passed the stage of prevention and reached that of cure1 dry1 falling hair can be helped by this variant of the shampoo ,i have described3 ,castile soap1 cake2 borax 7powdered71 #d teaspoonfuls2 bay rum1 #a ounce2 ,italian pink1 #bj drops2 warm water1 #a quart4 ,a dry shampoo available for blondes1 but which would leave unbecoming traces in dark hair1 is3 ,cornmeal1 #b ounces2 orris root 7powdered71 #a ounce4 ,this shaken well into the hair and brushed out carries much of the dust with it1 as does ,french chalk when brushed upon and off a soiled frock4 ,this ,i commend in an emergency1 but only then1 for it does not clean the scalp as does the liquid shampoo4 ,another shampoo that has been successfully used to check the falling of hair contains3 ,borax1 #b tablespoonfuls2 salts of tartar1 #b drams2 almond oil1 #b ounces2 ,italian pink1 #ab drops4 ,for dry hair this tonic is one of the best3 ,sweet almond oil1 #c ounces2 oil of rosemary1 #a ounce2 oil of bergamot1 #aj drops4 ,if dandruff afflict you in midsummer look first to your brushes4 ,if you have neglected to keep them scrupulously clean begin to do so4 ,dip them whenever the least soiled into3 ,hot water1 #a quart2 violet ammonia1 #a ounce4 ,place the brushes on the window sill to dry4 ,turn the brushes upon their sides so that they will dry quickly1 and the bristles will remain firm4 ,brush the hair thoroughly night and morning4 ,use a blunt edged1 large toothed comb4 ,do not scrape the scalp4 ,make your diet during this time chiefly of fruit and vegetables4 ,apply also this lotion3 ,borax1 #c tablespoonfuls2 rosemary 7best71 #c ounces2 steep in one quart of boiling water4 ,when cold add ounce of glycerine and #cj drops of cologne4 ,if the hair be moist use one tablespoonful of borax in a shampoo two or three times a week4 ,while in your room give the hair plenty of rest and exercise4 ,both are provided by brushing the hair and letting it hang loose as long as possible in the sun and air baths4 ,usually the hair needs in summer at least one shampoo a week1 unless the hair be extraordinarily dry4 ,one of the best shampoos is made very simply3 ,shaved castile soap1 #a ounce2 hot water1 #a quart4 ,for a dry shampoo this is good for moist scalps3 ,alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #a quart2 table salt1 #a ounce2 quinine1 #a-f ounce4 ,if you pass your holiday at the seashore you will welcome a formula that will keep the hair in curl4 ,here is one of the best ,i know3 ,gum arabic1 ounce2 carbonate of potash1 ounce2 glycerine1 ounce2 rosewater1 #a pint2 ,portugal extract1 #b ounces4 ,fortunate are you1 indeed1 if you come back from your summer outing with hair thick and lustrous1 and scalp cool and loose skinned as when you left4 ,but even if you have achieved this1 your hair is certain to be faded1 for the sun's rays while stimulating to the scalp1 diminish the richness of the hue of the hair4 ,the probability is that the scalp has been dried by the heat and dust4 ,massage with cocoanut oil or the following tonic3 ,sweet almond oil1 #c ounces2 oil of cinnamon1 #cj drops2 oil of rosemary1 #a ounce4 ,let me tell you of an experience which taught me much about the hair4 ,i was invited to an informal house party4 ,arriving at an early hour in the morning ,i was met in the hall by my charming hostess4 ,she was as lovely as ever1 but there was something odd about her1 something unusual4 ,she laughed at the puzzled look in my face4 8,you are bewildered10 she said4 8,i look different1 but you do not know how4 ,it is this4 ,i am resting my hair40 8,wonderful woman60 ,i cried4 8,it is the great ,american common sense40 ,then ,i saw that her lovely blond hair1 short1 as is all curling hair1 rested about her shoulders in a golden shower4 ,it was parted in the middle4 ,she had always worn it in a pompadour or some modification of the pompadour4 ,now it was parted in the middle1 and combed as smoothly as its rebellious luxuriance would permit away from that part1 and flat upon the top of the head4 ,glistening from its recent brushing it hung about her shoulders1 fresh combed1 fresh brushed1 and with the faintest odor of a cleansing tonic hanging about it4 ,it had no ribbon about it4 ,no hairpin confined it4 ,it was free4 ,it was resting after the nine months' toil of a fashionable season4 8,every morning10 she said1 8it has had a thorough combing and slight brushing4 ,every night a slight combing and thorough brushing4 ,the first week ,i gave it a shampoo every day4 ,i continued until the last trace of dandruff was gone4 ,a sun-dried shampoo1 of course4 ,every other sort1 except the toweling1 ,i consider barbarous and destructive to the hair4 ,every afternoon when the sun shone in my bedroom window ,i have let down my hair and sat where the breeze and sunshine came through the open window4 ,sitting there ,i have taken my hair between my palms and1 strand by strand1 have rubbed it lightly until every hair has had its burnishing4 ,when this was done ,i shook it out loosely between my thumb and forefingers so that the wind and sun could reach every part of the hair and scalp40 ,my friend's hair had made almost instant response to the treatment4 ,from being dead hair it had become live as a galvanic battery4 ,from being dull and faded it had become rich and glistening4 ,all over her scalp was the fine first fuzz of a new crop of hair4 ,and the old galvanized hair had grown an inch longer in one month4 ,she had experimented with various lotions or dry shampoos4 ,this she found the greatest cleanser and tonic for her hair3 ,peruvian bark 7powdered71 #c ounces2 rum1 #a pint4 ,another aid to this summer rest of the hair was a new brush4 ,she showed it to me4 ,it was a plain wooden backed hair brush1 with the bristles set well into the back in groups4 ,the bristles in these groups were irregular1 in order that they might reach all parts of the head1 the long ones penetrating the hair where it was thickest1 the short ones sufficing for the parts where it was thinnest4 ,she adjured vaseline1 as ,i have advised my readers to do4 ,it is a mineral oil and cannot cause the hair to grow4 ,instead1 she rubs olive oil or beef marrow well into the roots of the hair at night1 softening the scalp and fertilizing a dry area4 ,also she varied these treatments with this which1 being a woman of wide reading1 she had copied from ,the ,lancet3 ,alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #d ounces2 quinine1 #ae grains2 castor oil1 ounce4 ,careful to massage the head gently every night after its brushing1 she kept the scalp loose4 ,when it was hot she cooled it by applications of cracked ice in an ice cap4 ,she shunned the tempting fine tooth comb1 that removes dandruff1 it is true1 but perpetrates atrocities upon the scalp as painful and disfiguring as scratches upon the face4 ,once a month she had her hair singed1 before a shampoo4 ,her greatest concession to the conventions was the slipping over her shining1 well curried mane a net of exactly the same shade1 which she wore at dinner1 8a token of respect for the soup and butter1 merely10 she explained4 ,one hundred strokes every evening before retiring are necessary if the hair be of vigorous constitution4 ,if delicate there is danger of its being torn from the roots by too strong strokes of the brush and too many of these and the number of strokes can be considerably lessened4 ,brushing removes the dust1 but is not sufficient stimulant for the scalp1 which needs1 beside brushing1 massage4 ,the most beautiful hair ,i know is that of a young woman who gives her scalp a thorough massage three times a week with a good hair tonic4 ,this1 her favorite tonic1 ,i publish here for the use of such of my readers as are blondes4 ,it contains one ingredient1 bicarbonate of soda1 whose tendency is to make the hair a lighter shade4 ,therefore1 ,i do not use it myself nor would ,i recommend it for any other brunette3 ,borax1 #a ounce2 bicarbonate of soda1 ounce2 camphor1 #a dram2 glycerine1 ounce2 rosewater1 #a quart2 alcohol1 #b ounces4 ,the camphor should be dissolved in the alcohol4 ,the soda1 glycerine1 rosewater and alcohol should be mixed and well shaken in another bottle4 ,then pour this mixture into the solution of camphor4 ,apply with the finger tips1 or a soft brush1 parting the hair and rubbing the tonic thoroughly into the scalp1 until it makes response by a healthful tingling4 ,a former method of scalp massage was to rub it haphazard with the tips of the fingers4 ,from ,europe has come a later and more scientific method4 ,it consists in treating the scalp as though it were composed of circular terraces1 treating each terrace at a time separately by pressing the cushions of the fingers firmly upon the scalp all the way round the terrace1 beginning with that which is the first or the outer and working toward the center4 ,this pressure achieves that for which massage of the scalp was invented4 ,it loosens the skin from the scalp1 permitting free circulation about the roots of the hair4 ,for a brunette my preference is for this3 ,sulphate of quinine1 #bj grains2 fluid extract of jaborandi1 #a ounce2 glycerine1 #b ounces2 cologne1 #d ounces2 bay rum1 #d ounces2 rosewater1 #bj ounces4 ,the above is excellent also for hair that is too dry4 ,for moist hair ,i advise a dry shampoo or tonic treatment of this3 ,eau de cologne1 #d ounces2 borax1 ounce2 tincture of cochineal1 ounce4 ,some blondes whom ,i know use the following methods to keep their hair light3 ,washing soda1 #b tablespoonfuls2 water1 #a quart4 ,dissolve the soda in the water and give the hair a thorough shampoo with the mixture once a week if needed1 less often if necessary4 ,the susceptibility of the hair to treatment determines the number of the treatments4 ,a half dozen drops of ammonia in shampoo should keep the hair light4 ,also one teaspoonful of peroxide of hydrogen in one quart of water will lighten without injuring the hair4 ,bear in mind that whatever makes the hair dry makes it brittle1 and use any preparation discreetly1 studying the effect of one or two applications on the hair4 ,remember that headache is one of the greatest foes of the hair4 ,when my scalp is feverish ,i sometimes apply a rubber cap filled with cracked ice for a half an hour or longer1 until the congestion is removed4 ,never retire without brushing your hair4 ,the hair is a dust trap1 and no dainty woman would retire without removing the day's accumulation of dust4 ,the brush tells its own story of the day's catch of dust1 if you take the trouble to examine it4 ,after brushing the hair1 loosen the skin from the scalp by slow1 firm massage1 pressing the skin toward the crown4 ,this is the best time to apply a hair tonic4 ,a good hair tonic is made of3 ,oil of mace1 #b grams2 essence of rosemary1 #fj grams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #cj grams4 ,i have found that1 while ,i may protect my skin1 my eyes1 my hands somewhat from the winds of winter1 my hair always suffers from it4 ,the wind ,i found dried the oil in it1 making it harsh and brittle4 ,ordinary massage and brushing ,i did not find as useful as in the summer4 ,i tried many remedies for the dry condition of the scalp1 which1 of course1 produced dry hair4 ,at last ,i hit upon this1 which ,i rubbed well into the roots of the hair before retiring on the night before my shampooing day3 ,lanolin1 #a ounce2 sulphur1 ounce4 ,let me explain1 ,i did not rub this haphazard upon the scalp4 ,i have seen women dab a hair scalp emollient so carelessly upon the scalp1 here and there1 that they might quite as well have left it undone and employed their time for better purposes4 ,i did this as thoroughly as1 ,i think1 everything we undertake should be done4 ,first1 ,i combed the hair thoroughly1 doing it slowly1 beginning about an inch from the ends1 holding the long hair near the roots so that rough combing might not pull it out4 ,then ,i brushed it slowly1 beginning at the roots and brushing downward with long1 slow strokes to the very end4 ,i parted the hair into fifty strands1 combing it smoothly away from each little parting4 ,then1 with fingers dipped into the mixture of lanolin and sulphur1 ,i began at the hair line and1 with firm1 long strokes1 the effect of which was to loosen the skin from the scalp1 ,i rubbed the mixture well into the roots4 ,from the hair line ,i followed the partings to the crown1 from which it radiated4 ,this done1 and thoroughly done1 ,i unbraided my hair and combed and brushed it once more1 and allowed it to hang loose for an hour or more1 exercising and ventilating it1 until ,i retired1 when it was braided and tied into two large1 loose braids and tied at the end with narrow ribbons4 ,i never use either elastic or thread to fasten the ends of the hair1 for ,i think it breaks the hairs1 making the ends uneven4 ,the next morning ,i have a shampoo4 ,ordinarily ,i use a lather of white castile soap and warm water4 ,but in winter1 noting the drying effects of the cold winds upon my hair1 ,i try to use a shampoo which will aid in making the hair soft and lustrous1 doing for the time the work of the natural oils1 which seem to have suspended operations3 ,yolks of #b eggs2 warm water1 #a quart4 ,i part the hair into fifty strands1 as ,i have described1 the night before1 and into each of the partings and particularly around the hair line1 which a woman cannot afford to neglect1 ,i rub the tips of the fingers with the yolks of the eggs1 using the tips of the first two fingers4 ,when this has been thoroughly done ,i rinse the hair and scalp in warm water4 ,after the hair has 8been through the first water10 ,i turn upon the scalp a spray from a small hose1 one of the small-size sprays now made for shampooing4 ,this distributes the water better1 and the force is not so great as when it is poured from a pitcher in the old-fashioned 8home0 way4 ,the full force of city water must never be used upon the tender scalp4 ,the little sprays are cheap and a good investment4 ,the shower from the spray can be gradually cooled1 but ,i do not believe in extremes of temperature for the hair any more than ,i do for the complexion4 ,i never use either cold or hot water for a shampoo1 nor cold water for rinsing4 ,warm to cool water is a sufficient gradation that soothes the nerves of the scalp1 while dashes of hot and cold water overstimulate and shock them4 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,useful ,,beauty ,,hints ,,for ,,men ,men take beauty treatments4 ,had that been a secret heretofore1 one of their own sex revealed it4 ,david ,graham ,phillips1 whom some critics have called the ,zola1 others the ,flaubert1 of ,american literature1 tells of the disappearance of a wealthy broker who was taking a beauty treatment4 ,of what do men's beauty treatments consist8 ,like the soundest of beauty treatments given to women1 some of them are the rebuilding of the constitution upon a basis of health4 ,muldoon1 of ,white ,plains1 many a ,new ,york man considers the greatest of beauty doctors4 ,men of ,london and some men of ,paris have the same unlimited faith in ,sandow4 ,no intelligent person can doubt that rest1 regular living and much out-of-door air will make a person's beauty greater1 because it will strengthen the very pedestal of beauty1 which is health4 ,every man is justified in taking one of these beauty vacations1 which is1 after all1 a health vacation1 a tonic time for the entire system4 ,if ,i were asked what the smart man has most regard for in his appearance1 ,i should say his baths1 which the ,english and those who spend much time in ,england1 call their 8tubs10 and the cut of their clothes4 ,as to the baths1 the man who is really not unkempt1 by the standards of the high world1 has two baths a day1 in the morning a cold plunge or shower as a tonic1 in the evening just before dinner a tepid or warm bath1 with a shower afterward1 as a cleanser4 ,the cold bath is not cleansing4 ,on the contrary it merely closes the pores1 shutting the gates upon the effete matter that is trying to escape from the system by means of the millions of little gateways in the skin4 ,it is valuable as a tonic to the nervous system1 by means of the shock it gives to that system4 ,but not even my lord man1 mighty in his strength1 should take such powerful tonics without having consulted his physician about it4 ,a man who always seems to shine with the radiance of his bath pours a wineglassful of perfumed ammonia into a tub of water4 ,this softens the water1 removes the odors of perspiration and whitens the skin4 ,an exquisite who is the fashion in ,london uses a quarter of a pound of borax in his bath to soften the water and so refine his skin4 ,i once heard the story of the physician with so admirable a skin that all his women patients asked the secret of his complexion's perfection4 ,he told one1 who generously told many others1 that knowing the mighty power of absorption of the skin1 he had experimented with the use of ,epsom salts in the bath4 ,he had found it stimulating and1 in consequence1 had used a pound of the salts dissolved in a bathtubful of water1 every day4 ,a salt bath is stimulating4 ,rubbing handfuls of table salt on the body1 getting it into a fine glow before the bath1 is one means of absorbing the salt into the system4 ,another is pouring an ordinary five-cent bag of table salt into the water and letting it thoroughly dissolve before taking the bath4 ,illustration3 ,,maxine ,,elliott ,whom ,mme4 ,cavalieri admires not only for her classic lines of face and figure1 but also for her admirable taste in dress4 ,but ask any well-groomed man if baths are sufficient for cleanliness and he will answer1 8,no4 ,no man can be clean unless he walks four to six miles a day40 ,there must be then three baths1 the cold plunge in the morning1 the natural perspiratory bath at any time that is convenient between the two1 and the before-dinner tub in the evening1 for the cleanliness that obtains among men who are proud of their grooming4 ,the man who fears baldness does well to avoid a tight hat4 ,the size should be large enough to permit ventilation of the hair and scalp4 ,also he should puncture the hat with fine holes for the same purpose4 ,a man is his own best judge of when he needs a shampoo4 ,if the hair falls unduly1 or if it feels sticky1 or if the brush is considerably soiled after brushing1 it is time for a shampoo1 even though you had one three days before4 ,if there is much dandruff in the hair there is need of a shampoo4 ,a shampoo successfully used by a relative of mine who has beautifully thick and glossy hair is made of3 ,tincture of green soap1 #a tablespoonful2 the whites of two eggs2 cologne1 #aj drops4 ,if the hair is dark the yolks of the eggs may also be used4 ,the eggs are beaten into the water1 the soap added and the cologne sprinkled in4 ,to prevent catching cold after a shampoo1 rub alcohol into the hair about the neck and cheeks and temples4 ,remember that there would be no baldness if the hair roots were properly nourished4 ,so keep a plentiful supply of blood flowing in that direction by massage4 ,if the scalp is dry rub olive oil or lanolin liberally into the scalp at night4 ,be sure to keep the skin of the scalp so loose that it can be easily moved about1 and keep it cool if to do so you must occasionally place on the head when it is overheated a bag of cracked ice or a cloth dipped into cold water1 renewing it as the cloth dries4 ,one authority on the hair believes in a daily pulling1 not by an irate wife1 but by yourself4 ,he believes that this takes the place of exercise for the hair and that it strengthens the roots as walking strengthens the muscles of the legs or rowing the muscles of the arms4 ,every man fears the ugly dewlap1 often called 8the statesman chin40 ,he can prevent this by carrying his head and chin well up4 ,he can to some extent correct it by using webbing chin bandages at night4 ,,chapter ,x ,,the ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,nails ,,and ,,fingers ,dainty finger nails are ,nature's finishing touch for a beautiful woman4 ,they have always seemed to me to be the natural jewels of the hands1 and if they are in good order1 that other jewels are unnecessary1 if not superfluous4 ,let me describe these jewels at their best4 ,they are of color pink1 as the deep1 fresh heart of a blush rose4 ,in shape they are nearly like the filbert nut4 ,in size they are in good proportion to the size of the finger and the hand4 ,they must be neither too large nor too small4 ,they must seem to be long4 ,they are more like the petals of a half-blown rose1 or the lining of a sea-shell1 than anything else in nature4 ,at their base must be a crescent tiny in proportion to the size of the nail1 but as clear cut and silvery as a young moon on the night of its dbut in the sky4 ,is there need to say that the other end of the nail be spotless1 as utterly beyond suspicion as the character of ,csar's wife8 ,there must not be the slightest rim nor shadow to darken the fair pinkness of the nails4 ,the skin about them must seem to bear but remote and casual relation to the nails4 ,it must be discouraged from any intimacy with the nail1 any closer intimacy1 shall we say1 than the thorny calyx with the rose8 ,it serves1 indeed1 the same purpose4 ,it is the mere protector of its charming charge4 ,thus should the nails be4 ,but how to make and keep them so is what we must discuss to-day4 ,in the first place1 as to their daily care4 ,if they are in normally good condition1 the morning hand bath should be supplemented by soaking the nails themselves for five minutes in warm soap-suds or lather made of castile soap4 ,this supplemental nail bath should be followed by a careful pressing back with the towel of the skin about the nails until each portion of the skin is detached4 ,a third step in the daily care of the nails is to brush them vigorously with a nail brush dipped into the soap-suds4 ,notice next whether any portion of the skin about the nails is still attached1 or if not attached1 is slightly sore4 ,if it is1 that portion of the nail should be anointed with a bit of camphor ice or with vaseline or lanolin1 or a preparation containing witch hazel4 ,if necessary1 wrap it round with white muslin or white silk4 ,if in spite of all these endeavors there remains a faintly dark rim around the end of the nail1 one further process is necessary4 ,wrap around the pointed end of an orange-wood stick a bit of antiseptic cotton4 ,moisten this with a few drops of peroxide of hydrogen4 ,with this carefully remove the dust that may remain between the nail and the skin4 ,never use a steel instrument1 an ivory nail cleaner1 or anything harder than the cotton wrapped around the end of the orange stick4 ,if you do1 the sensitive skin under the nail is lacerated4 ,dust settles upon the ragged ends of the skin1 and the ugly1 disfiguring dark rim is evident4 ,if the nails become brittle it is because they are dry and they should at once be moistened by an oil bath4 ,into a small1 shallow bowl pour a gill or more of olive oil4 ,soak the nail in this for ten minutes or longer every evening until the condition is corrected4 ,if for any reason this is not feasible1 massage them every evening with cold cream4 ,if white spots appear under the nails rub the nail with slices of lemon4 ,sometimes the nails grow soft and dull4 ,in such case ,i have found of value this mixture1 which1 after having been melted on a slow fire1 cooled and poured into a pomade jar1 should be rubbed on the nails to restore them to their former hardness and brilliancy3 ,white wax1 #bej centigrams2 nut oil1 #ae grams2 resin1 #e grams2 alum1 #a gram4 ,if a kind friend gives you a manicure set1 smile outwardly1 but inwardly regret that you have not the difference between the original small cost of the tools and the exorbitant price paid for the elegant case containing what is usually an inferior set of instruments4 ,the outfit should consist of3 ,one large nail brush1 for the outer part of the nail2 one small nail brush to go under the nail2 one strong but pliable nail file2 one polisher 7chamois or covered72 two pairs of curved scissors 7one pair for each hand4 ,there are scissors made especially for cutting the nails of the right hand1 and vice versa72 one orange stick2 one box of powdered pumice2 one box of nail powder4 ,first go round the outer edge of the nail with an orange stick1 pressing the cuticle back firmly but softly1 but do not press the nail1 which is exceedingly sensitive4 ,any pressure upon it may injure the sensitive cutis beneath4 ,coax the white half-moon at the base of the nail into full view4 ,this moon1 like the other young moon1 is reluctant to appear4 ,then file the nail into any shape you wish4 ,a slightly pointed effect is admissible1 and is becoming to nearly all hands4 ,it especially counteracts the plumpness of the hand that nature has made too short4 ,dipping the nail polisher or brush into the powder1 rub the nail until my figure of their being 8natural jewels of the hands0 becomes apparent4 ,stop short of a too high polish4 ,with the extra brush remove all the powder that has adhered4 ,most manicures assist the process by soaking the hands alternately for five minutes after they have been filed4 ,the palms of the hands add a polish to nails that are not readily susceptible to the polisher4 ,you will find that the oftener you polish your nails the more susceptible do they become of polish4 ,this nail powder lends itself well to polishing3 ,pulverized starch1 ounce2 boric acid powdered1 ounce2 talcum powder1 ounce2 tincture of carmine1 #aj drops4 ,another which ,i have used satisfactorily is composed of3 ,oxide of tin1 thoroughly powdered1 #aj drams2 oil of lavender1 #fj drops2 tincture of carmine1 #bj drops4 ,one-half of this quantity may be put up and will serve for many weeks4 ,still another good nail polish is made like this3 ,zinc oxide1 #a ounce2 carmine1 #d grams2 oil of violet to suit taste4 ,this nail rouge is excellent3 ,fresh lard1 #a dram2 finely powdered carmine1 dram2 oil of bergamot1 #ab drops4 ,this1 which was derived1 ,i am told1 from the ,orient1 is effective3 ,chippings of alkanet1 ounce2 alcohol1 #ie per cent41 #a ounce4 ,after this mixture macerates for one week it becomes a brilliant color4 ,apply to the finger tips with jeweler's cotton1 blending it afterwards with more cotton4 ,personally ,i prefer to do my own nails4 ,they should be done every day to attain perfection4 ,two or three times a week are needful1 and at least once a week essential4 ,the purpose is to keep the nails clean1 to make them shapely1 to preserve their color1 to adorn the tips of the fingers4 ,i have tried to make my nails the exact shape of a filbert4 ,i keep them very pointed1 and do not sandpaper1 that is1 shorten them oftener than twice a month4 ,but the daily process is this3 ,first1 to study them in a good light and to see whether there be any stains on the fingers4 ,if there are ,i rub the stains with pumice stone until they have disappeared4 ,second1 ,i look carefully to the half moons at the base of the nails4 ,they are as illuminating to the nails as the new moon to the heavens4 ,if they are well defined ,i merely press the cuticle back gently when ,i dry my hands4 ,but if they be overgrown with cuticle ,i give them a bath in olive oil4 ,into a shallow vessel ,i pour a half pint of olive oil4 ,into this ,i dip my nails1 holding them there for five minutes if they are but slightly overgrown1 fifteen minutes if extremely covered with the cuticle4 ,then when the cuticle is softened ,i carefully go over each one with a linen towel1 softly pressing back the skin4 ,if it clings obstinately ,i do not persist1 but resolve that the fingers must have several oil baths4 ,also ,i resolve that that night ,i will rub them as carefully with cold cream as ,i do any other part of the hands4 ,in a week the half moons should stand beautifully revealed4 ,if not ,i continue the oil baths in the morning and cold cream applications at night until they are visible4 ,third1 ,i twist about the point of an orange wood stick a bit of cotton1 dip the end into peroxide of hydrogen and rub the dampened point of the orange wood stick along the inside of the nail4 ,mark that ,i said nail1 not skin4 ,the reason so many persons must keep their nails short to keep them clean is that they use sharp or jagged instruments to clean the nail1 and pressing this upon the skin beneath the nail makes it ragged4 ,the uneven edges of the skin catch the dust and give the gray or even black rim that is so ugly a border for the fingers4 ,fourth1 with a chamois ,i polish each finger nail by three or four strokes1 using the least touch of nail rouge before the polishing4 ,pink nails are charming4 ,red nails are horrible4 ,don't1 ,i beg1 allow your hands to grow old4 ,hands1 unless well cared for1 betray the age more quickly than does the face4 ,study your hands well4 ,don't let the skin grow coarse4 ,don't let the veins grow large4 ,don't let the skin hang in folds and creases about them4 ,never allow the divorce of the skin from the muscles4 ,the young hand is smooth and firm4 ,the old is rough skinned and loose muscled4 ,in the youthful hand the veins are only faintly indicated4 ,in the old hands they stand forth as whipcords4 ,when the hand is young1 the knuckles are inconspicuous4 ,when it is old1 they are more prominent than any other part of the hand4 ,there is between the young hand and the old the same difference there is between the thin bark of a sappling and the thick1 rugged bark of a storm-beaten old oak4 ,the nails in youth are thin and pink4 ,in old age they are thick and yellow4 ,knowing these signs1 the intelligent student of beauty culture will avoid them4 ,she will discourage these symptoms of multiplying years4 ,the cause of aged hands is the common cause of bodily decay1 defective circulation4 ,if you note signs of ageing in your hands1 attend more than ever before to the circulation4 ,exercise promotes circulation4 ,exercise your hands1 particularly the fingers4 ,fancy that your fingers are but loosely attached to the hands and that you are trying to shake them off4 ,raise them from the elbows1 and1 with the hands bent at the wrist1 vigorously shake them1 with fingers spread and loose4 7#a7 ,shake them from right to left and back again4 7#b7 ,shake them up and down4 7#c7 ,shake them round and round4 ,invent exercises of your own4 ,any movement that will cause the blood to flow at an increased rapidity will renourish and so rejuvenate the hands4 ,we read in poem and story that the sorrow stricken heroine wrings her hands4 ,this may or may not be a vent for her grief1 but it is an excellent means of making her hands healthier and so more beautiful4 ,daily exercises1 say ten to fifteen times every morning1 will do much to beautify the hands and so render them prettier4 ,the ageing hand is the hand whose muscles are shrinking4 ,increase the circulation and the hand will plumpen and in time resume its youthful lines4 ,my favorite methods of massage for the hands are two1 the motion we use when washing the hands1 and that we use when smoothing down and fitting fingers of a pair of gloves4 ,stroke the hands down the back from the spaces between the fingers1 and lock the hands together1 interlacing the fingers and tightly squeezing them4 ,the skin of the hands needs food as well as does the skin of the face4 ,both are exposed to drying tendencies of the outer air and the heating influence of the inner1 and both need a replenishing of the natural oils thus lost4 ,olive oil is a good food for the skin of the hands4 ,the large pores quickly absorb this medium and a few weeks' treatment soon works a marvelous change4 ,aged anmic hands should have an oil bath1 or should be fed with cold cream every night4 ,wash them exactly as though they were soiled and you were trying to remove the dirt with soap and water4 ,either the following cream or the paste that follows serve well that purpose3 ,almond oil1 #a ounces2 cucumber juice1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a dram2 spermaceti1 #a ounce2 oil of neroli1 #e drops4 ,crushed sweet almonds1 #a ounce2 crushed bitter almonds1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #b drams2 oil of almonds1 ounce2 white castile soap scraped fine1 ounce2 oil of orange1 #f drops4 ,to relieve the congested1 swollen appearance of the hands1 form the habit of holding them upward so that the blood will run out of them instead of downward so that the blood will run into them4 ,also to avoid this congested condition of the hands1 that distends the veins unbecomingly1 avoid lifting heavy weights4 ,for lifting anything of heavy weight stretches the hands1 making them larger and overfilling the blood vessels4 ,even piano playing enlarges the hands that reach the octaves1 and to some extent causes swollen veins4 ,the beauties of the old ,french courts so well understood this that they never used their hands when it was avoidable4 ,enlarged knuckles1 one of the signs of age1 can be prevented by avoiding overwork and carrying heavy weights4 ,if the knuckles be naturally large1 it is well to keep the hands well plumped by good circulation and much feeding of the tissues with oils and creams4 ,this same precaution will prevent the hands becoming unshapely4 ,but if they were unshapely from birth1 they can be improved by pinching the tips of the fingers from the sides1 or by wearing clamps1 or if these be not available1 by wearing thimbles on all the fingers a half hour or more each day4 ,they can be made longer and slimmer by massaging the hands with long1 slow strokes from the wrists to the tips of the fingers1 always with the hands well oiled or covered with pure cold cream4 ,massage of the fingers can be profitably combined with massage of the face by using a rotary motion of the finger tips4 ,this stimulates both face and finger muscles4 ,hands of any age should be kept white4 ,reddened hands are always unsightly1 whatever the cause4 ,there are four causes for reddened hands4 ,one is washing in hot or cold water4 ,another is exposure to cold air4 ,a third is extremely hard manual labor4 ,a fourth is the habit of holding the hands downward4 ,there are a good many bleaches for the hands4 ,one of the best is washing the hands in a bowl of warm milk every night4 ,another is that old friend of the dainty1 which should be within reach of every toilet table--a lemon4 ,there is no bleach better than half a lemon rubbed on the back of palms of the hands before retiring4 ,this1 too1 is an excellent bleach which also softens the hands4 ,the addition of perfume makes it a pleasant preparation3 ,lemon juice1 #a ounce2 honey1 #a ounce2 eau de cologne1 #a ounce4 ,when my hands are soiled ,i wash them in warm--never hot--water with a pure soap4 ,lifting my hands from the bowl of warm water ,i pour upon them a tablespoonful from a bottle of3 ,rosewater1 #c ounces2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 carbolic acid1 #aj drops4 ,i wash my hands thoroughly again in this and dry them upon a soft towel1 a piece of cheesecloth or an old silk handkerchief1 and am careful to wipe them thoroughly dry4 ,chapped hands are the penalty of careless drying4 ,to further whiten the hands carbolic acid may be added to this mixture3 #aj drops to #d ounces of the rosewater and glycerine4 ,the woman who does her own housework often finds the skin about the joints of her fingers getting loose and flabby and the skin at the sides of the nails becoming calloused4 ,for these troubles ,i advise wearing large1 loose gloves while sweeping and dusting4 ,don't put your hands in hot water more than is necessary4 ,massage the hands as ,i have directed and soak them every day in a bowl of milk or olive oil4 ,use one of the bleaches ,i have recommended1 and wear big1 loose rubber gloves1 three or four sizes larger than your kid gloves1 at night4 ,at luncheon one day in ,london ,i saw a girl trying to hide her hands4 ,some one had remarked that hands may look old when their owner is not4 ,the discussion of the subject threw the girl into acute embarrassment1 and her hands sought to screen themselves beneath the damask of her dinner napkin4 ,interested1 ,i studied those hands when ,i could do so without embarrassment to the girl4 ,they were large and red1 but what made the unhappy guest try to hide them was that they were what every beauty specialist knows as 8old hands40 ,had ,i judged the age of their possessor by those hands ,i should have said she was fifty4 ,they were deeply wrinkled4 ,the skin had formed in deep creases about the knuckles4 ,the texture was coarse4 ,there was the resigned look of accepted age in their contour4 ,yet when my eyes traveled up from those hands to the figure of the girl ,i saw that it was slender and undeveloped1 and as my scrutiny extended to the face ,i saw that it was fresh and sweet as an ,english primrose that grows in one of the deliciously romantic ,english lanes4 ,she was young as the unblown rosebud1 as the fledgling just peeping over the nest1 as the silver crescent moon is young4 ,but she had old hands4 ,why8 ,a keenly observant man said to me3 8,i was traveling to ,cherbourg4 ,i was in the same compartment as two women4 ,my eyes tired of the landscape1 and came back to my fellow travelers4 ,one of the women had drawn off her gloves4 ,her hands lay in her lap4 ,idly ,i speculated about their owner4 ,i guessed by those hands that she was forty4 ,her face showed she was not more than eighteen4 ,next ,i glanced at her companion's hands4 ,they1 too1 were ungloved and1 lying relaxed in her lap1 were aged hands4 ,she must be eighty1 ,i thought1 and a glimpse of her face confounded me4 ,it was that of a woman in middle life4 ,she was of that opulent beauty whose midsummer is prolonged indefinitely4 ,she was probably forty-five4 ,and the girl beside her was her daughter4 ,she was an exact replica of her1 even to her hands4 ,the girl had inherited those aged hands40 ,my friend the traveler is clever1 but ,i do not agree with his conclusions4 ,at least not fully4 ,hands age prematurely because they are neglected4 ,we inherit certain tendencies rather than any unchangeable physical appearances4 ,and the girl had inherited her mother's tendencies to neglect her hands4 ,doubtless they kept them clean4 ,perhaps they used the nail brush quite often and as vigorously as necessary4 ,probably they used the orange stick around the edges of the nails to loosen the skin4 ,nevertheless1 ,i insist that these prematurely aged hands were neglected4 ,why8 ,because they were hungry4 ,you are surprised8 ,but consider4 ,have you looked at your own face in the mirror when you were hungry8 ,hunger had cut deep lines about your lips and beneath your eyes and in your cheeks4 ,had it not8 ,and you had merely missed a meal because a train was delayed or because you had a headache4 ,this is what happens to the hands that are not well fed4 ,a great ,american specialist on nerves said that the hand is a delicate instrument of the body and needs especial care4 ,he insists that much thought should be given to their care4 ,an important part of caring for them is to feed them so well that the tissues worn out by continuous using of the hands is quickly replaced4 ,cocoa butter is a nourishing article of diet for the hands4 ,when you have removed the dust and powder from the hands by bathing them in warm1 not hot1 water--hot water shrivels the skin and causes wrinkles--and a mild soap1 dry them on a soft towel and rub cocoa butter gently and liberally into them4 ,olive oil containing a few drops of benzoin1 to act as a whitener1 is an excellent hand food4 ,wash the hands in it after the water and soap bath4 ,it neutralizes the drying effect of the soap4 ,glycerine 8agrees0 with some hands4 ,if it does not redden and make them sensitive1 as you can learn by two or three applications1 it will be a good article of hand food4 ,equal parts of glycerine and rosewater will make a milder application1 for glycerine alone is often an irritant4 ,if lemon juice is used instead of the rosewater1 it whitens the hands4 ,well fed hands ,i have seen have their daily meal of cocoanut oil4 ,several cold creams are good hand foods4 ,so is buttermilk4 ,many of my friends complain that winter always leaves them with 8disgraceful looking hands40 ,i do not suppose that this statement is really true4 ,americans1 and especially ,american girls1 are prone to extravagance in conversation4 ,what they mean by this bill of complaint1 is that the cold weather makes their hands look rough and red4 ,don't mourn those reddened1 coarse-looking hands4 ,you will only etch lines in your face and cause the muscles to sag as muscles do early in life if they have not been upheld by a cheerful disposition and the facial exercise that laughter brings4 ,besides all force is wasted that is not used in upbuilding new conditions or in remedying old ones4 ,what is to be done with those red hands8 ,first1 do not expose them to sudden changes of temperature4 ,don't plunge them into hot water and draw them out of the hot water and dry them in a cold room4 ,sleep in a cold room by all means1 but don't dress in one4 ,if there are no means to make your bedroom warm for the morning toilet dress in some part of the house that is warmed1 if necessary by the kitchen stove4 ,cold followed by heat or the opposite extreme is sure to redden the hands and to coarsen the texture of their skin4 ,second1 do not wear tight gloves4 ,i dislike a tightly-gloved hand4 ,it has always seemed to me vulgar4 ,i am glad to see that ,fashion is recognizing this and giving her endorsement to the practice of wearing gloves a half or whole size too large1 so that the glove will wrinkle a trifle over the hand and look as though the wearer were comfortable4 ,wear gloves that are otherwise comfortable1 that is1 that do not irritate the skin4 ,for summer cotton or very thin suede1 silk or chamois are best4 ,suede are best in winter1 because they are softer than most other materials used by the glover in providing his stock4 ,woolen gloves may be worn over the gloves1 but ,i do not advise wearing them next to the skin1 for they chafe the skin1 making it rough4 ,third1 do not wash them in water too often while they are in the coarse1 reddened state4 ,remove the dust or grime when possible by rubbing oil or cold cream over the hands and afterwards carefully wiping them4 ,when you wash them in water let it be in merely warm water4 ,into this you may drop a teaspoonful of powdered borax to a quart of water1 or in the same amount of water a dessert-spoonful of liquid ammonia or a half dozen drops of tincture of benzoin4 ,all these will whiten the skin4 ,if you drop in the water a handful of bran or oatmeal it will soften and whiten the hands4 ,dry the hands gently4 ,don't treat them as though you were putting them through a clothes wringer with the ,monday wash4 ,fourth1 until the hands reach the refined condition you desire1 never retire without dressing them for the night4 ,rub over them thickly lanolin1 or nafalan1 or a mixture of equal parts of vaseline and lanolin4 ,if you have made the hands too greasy by this application wipe off the superfluous cream with a soft handkerchief or piece of cheesecloth4 ,or if you prefer you can use the ,english paste1 or the ,french1 formulas for which follow3 ,pure soap shaved1 quart2 olive oil1 quart2 mutton suet1 quart2 brandy1 quart4 ,warm the soap1 suet and oil until they blend4 ,while they are still tepid pour in the brandy4 ,add a few drops of any favorite perfume if desired4 ,eau de cologne1 #ajj grams2 oil of almonds1 #ajj grams2 powdered soap1 #cj grams4 ,warm to blending point2 then shake well and pour into a jar1 and keep in a cool place4 ,spread one of these pastes over the hands and draw over the hands large loose rubber or large old kid gloves1 before retiring4 ,if the hands have reached such stage of roughness that there are small cracks or fissures in the skin cover these cracks or fissures with zinc oxide plasters4 ,if the fissures are very deep apply a salicylic soap plaster4 ,if your hands 8take a notion to be red10 say at an evening party or at a tea1 for instance1 when you are expected to 8pour10 shake them violently1 so that if the fingers were less loosely attached they would fly off4 ,also work the hands back and forth from the wrists for a few minutes4 ,this is better than the old ,french custom of holding the hands up to let the blood run out1 for the blood will run back into them again as soon as the hands are held as usual4 ,on the other hand the shaking of the hands and limbering of the wrists will restore the circulation1 the interruption of which has caused the hands to redden4 ,be sure that your rings are not too tight1 for if they are they will impede the circulation and cause the redness so many of you are trying to avoid4 ,illustration3 ,,lois ,,ewell ,a wealth of ,titian hair adds the crowning charm to the winsome beauty of this ,century ,opera ,house prima donna4 ,,chapter ,,xi ,,beauty ,,baths ,let me direct the baths of the body and the complexion will take care of itself4 ,how shall ,i impress upon you1 my beautiful reader1 who would remain beautiful1 my plain reader--if ever a woman was plain--who wants to be beautiful1 how necessary is the frequent bath8 ,by this ,i mean the daily bath4 ,let me tell you that which you may have forgotten1 that when we speak of the skin as 8the third lung0 we minimize its importance4 ,the skin discharges twice as much waste matter from the body as do the lungs4 ,keep that ever in mind and help the skin in its task4 ,again there is the story1 which you also may have heard and forgotten1 that the man whose skin has been gilded in an effort to make of him a man of gold1 died in a few hours because his pores1 having been filled1 could not discharge their function4 ,the daily bath1 in some instances1 the bath twice a day1 is not as persons advanced in some directions and pitiably behind in others tell us1 a luxury4 ,it is a necessity4 ,it does not1 as some ignorantly assume1 destroy the oils of the skin4 ,it causes them to circulate more freely through the medium of the skin4 ,permit me to picture to you the condition which a bath changes4 ,have you ever seen a shower of ashes8 ,how1 from a disturbed furnace1 a gray flurry rises1 then falls thickly as snow upon the nearest smooth surface8 ,that is what happens to the skin4 ,the shower of white ashes1 refuse from the fires in the human body1 pushes its way through the pores to the surface of the body1 or the skin4 ,there1 in the mouths of the pores1 they remain1 obstructing them as a wagonload of soil would obstruct the mouth of a sewer if poured into it and allowed to remain4 ,the shower of human ashes must be removed1 just as the traces of a snowfall are removed from city streets1 quickly and thoroughly1 else traffic is impeded4 ,the scarf skin must go1 and the best and most direct way to send it is by the route of the bath4 ,i have described in a previous chapter my own method of bathing4 ,i find the tepid bath in the morning1 followed by a slightly cooler shower1 or splash with sponge or hands1 the best for my needs4 ,also for drying the skin ,i prefer a soft towel1 for it is best for my skin4 ,but ,i do not recommend this as a universal method4 ,my skin happens to be exceedingly thin and sensitive1 annoyingly so4 ,if it were one of the hardier1 more durable sort1 with a tendency to a coarsening and roughening1 ,i should try this much more drastic method of removing scarf skin4 ,if ,i were strong enough and my physicians vouched for the fact that ,i were1 ,i would try the daily cold plunge or shower4 ,this ,i would take in the morning remaining in the icy tub or under the chilling shower not more than one minute4 ,then ,i should have a brisk rubdown1 not with the soft linen towel or cheesecloth1 but with a big1 coarse ,turkish towel4 ,for this purpose ,i like best the big towels that swathe the body completely1 which one may wrap round herself1 and1 wrapped in them1 sit upon a bathing stool and dry herself with immunity from chill4 ,unless ,i were to dress at once1 ,i should briskly rub the body with alcohol to render less the possibility of taking cold4 ,but if my room were sunny ,i would prefer to run about the room half a dozen times1 or a rehearsal of dancing steps for five minutes1 or jumping the rope4 ,one of the greatest authorities on hygiene in your country has advocated exercise--he called it a sun bath--directly after the bath4 ,but this would by no means suffice for my bathing4 ,for every one except an ,englishman knows that the cold bath does not cleanse4 ,it merely exhilarates4 ,for keeping the skin clean there should be the warm bath4 ,you observe that ,i did not say the hot bath1 for it is my opinion that the hot bath enervates4 ,for cleansing the water should be from #ij to #ie degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,a good soap should be plentifully used4 ,white castile1 the soaps made from spermaceti and good glycerine soaps ,i believe to be the best4 ,the soap need not be used directly upon the skin4 ,much better is it that for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour before you take your night bath a cake of soap or a quantity of it shaved be thrown into the water1 so that the water becomes a milky color1 or that a lather rise to the top of the water4 ,thus soap will never1 except in its diluted form1 touch the skin4 ,the per cent4 of lye which is used in the manufacture of soaps that would actually touch the skin would be very small4 ,a soft brush would be useful for a coarse skin4 ,i never advocate a hard one1 for it is liable to abrade the skin4 ,no one should remain in the bath more than twenty minutes1 and this time should include the rinsing off of the soapy water by a shower or spray of cooler1 perhaps fifteen degrees cooler1 not cold1 water4 ,a cold shower at night1 when this cleansing bath is taken1 would be over-stimulative1 and tend1 as does the strong coffee to certain persons1 to keep them awake4 ,between the two extremes of gentle and drastic bathing lie many intermediaries known as beauty baths4 ,there is1 for example1 that simple and efficacious starch bath1 taken by women whose skins are tormented and disfigured by pimples4 ,to an ordinary bathtub half filled with water add one pound of pure starch4 ,let it dissolve in water at #ij to #ie degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,to this many ,french women choose to add one wineglass of toilet ammonia for its whitening effect4 ,the oatmeal bag is an old and admirable remedy for rough or stained skin4 ,the best is made in this way3 ,oatmeal1 #a pound2 pulverized orris root1 pound4 ,stir well together and sew into a large square bag4 ,toss the bag into the tub and let it remain in the warm water for fifteen minutes4 ,it will give the water that delightful milky aspect so pleasant to the luxurious bather4 ,bran may be manipulated in the same way with equally good results4 ,for whitening and softening the skin a bath powder may be made at home from these ingredients3 ,bicarbonate of soda1 #f ounces2 cream of tartar1 #e ounces2 starch1 #h ounces2 oil of lemon1 #a dram2 oil of bergamot1 #aj drops4 ,if another scent is preferred to bergamot it can be substituted2 for instance1 #e drops of oil of rose geranium4 ,for a person not strong enough to endure the cold bath1 this tonic in tepid water is recommended by many ,european physicians3 ,aromatic vinegar1 #a pint2 tincture of benzoin1 #a wineglass4 ,a delicious bath used by our grandmothers1 and that is as efficacious for their granddaughters1 is made by boiling for three hours two pounds of bran4 ,strain the bran through a sieve4 ,to the remaining liquor add some scent of your choice1 let us say #aj drops of bergamot1 #e of rose of geranium1 or #e of oil of lavender4 ,a belle of limited means utilizes all the left-over bits of her toilet soap4 ,these she grinds or chops with a knife into a fine powder4 ,to two ounces of this powder she adds four tablespoonfuls of borax4 ,she sifts these into two quarts of bran4 ,a pint of this mixture poured into an old linen or cheesecloth bag and the bag used as a washcloth gives a pleasant touch of luxury to a bath1 besides greatly softening and whitening the skin4 ,many women prefer to make their own toilet or aromatic vinegars to be used in the bath4 ,for them ,i recommend this formula3 ,camphor1 ounce2 oil of rosemary1 dram2 oil of cloves1 dram2 oil of bergamot1 #a dram2 acetic acid1 #d ounces2 alcohol1 #h ounces4 ,when for any reason the perspiration is odorous in spite of the bath1 this sprinkled upon the offending portions of the body destroys the unpleasant condition3 ,subnitrate of bismuth1 #a ounce2 pulverized boric acid1 ounce2 pulverized alum1 ounce2 oil of eucalyptus1 #aj drops2 oil of rose geranium1 #e drops2 oil of lemon1 #e drops4 ,for those of full habit ,i recommend a ,russian bath once a week as beneficial to the complexion4 ,i prefer those given in the cabinets4 ,for myself1 being meager1 there would be after six of them nothing left4 ,let me suggest this means for the invalid or the person of lean purse1 of taking the ,russian bath at home4 ,there are inexpensive cabinets1 folding or stationary1 made for this purpose1 of wood or tin4 ,even a packing box would suffice4 ,but a good ,russian1 which means vapor1 as distinguished from the ,turkish1 or hot air1 bath--and the ,russian ,i think much to be preferred1 because it does not involve breathing hot air--may be taken at home4 ,the home-made ,russian bath requires3 ,three or more blankets2 a cane-seated chair2 a spirit lamp2 a can containing one quart of water4 ,place the can upon the lighted spirit lamp1 the spirit lamp beneath the chair1 and yourself1 enveloped in blankets1 upon the chair4 ,the water in the can can be replenished from time to time4 ,drinking three or more glasses of hot water during the bath aids in perspiration4 ,if there are more blankets available lie down swathed in from four to six dry ones1 and the process of perspiration will continue for twenty minutes longer4 ,in ,turkey baths are regarded not only as means of cleanliness but as agents of beauty4 ,here is a tonic ,turkish women pour into the tub to tone the skin and through that the whole body3 ,ammonia 7pure71 #ajj grams2 cooking salt1 #ejj grams4 ,this is of special value when one is tired and listless4 ,it is called the ,stimulant ,bath3 ,oil of turpentine1 #ajj grams2 carbonate of soda1 #ej grams2 oil of rosemary1 #aj grams2 oil of eucalyptus1 #e grams4 ,this oil bath is rubbed into the skin to render it soft and smooth4 ,it is an admirable remedy for a dry skin4 ,the harem women style it 8,the ,beauty ,bath03 ,rosewater1 #ajj grams2 glycerine1 #fj grams2 starch1 #ej grams2 oil of lavender1 #ae grams4 ,famous beauties were always careful about their baths1 even in a period when baths were disregarded or were despised as the habits of the unduly effeminate4 ,marie ,antoinette1 for her full bath1 used a mixture of wild thyme and marjory1 with sea salt4 ,in the winter the baths were taken cold1 in the summer warm1 it being the fancy of the court physician1 ,dr4 ,fagoni1 that the temperature of the bath should correspond to the temperature of the outer air4 ,the wine bath is not a fiction of the imagination1 but rather a fact of history4 ,the beautiful ,russian1 ,marie ,czetwertynoska1 favorite beauty of the ,court of ,alexander the ,great1 insisted upon the tonic of a weekly bath in ,spanish wine4 ,poppa bathed in asses' milk1 and was renowned for her complexion4 ,novel was the method of ,isabeau1 ,queen of ,bavaria1 for toning the body and beautifying the complexion in spring4 ,each morning during ,may1 ,june and ,july she bathed in strawberry juice4 ,mme4 ,tallien1 whose skin was flawless1 preferred raspberries1 as at once milder in effect and yet of more lasting quality4 ,ninon de l',enclos bathed alternately in chickweed water and milk1 using oatmeal freely in her face bath4 ,enid ,wilson1 often alluded to as 8the most beautiful woman in the ,british ,empire10 had a favorite bath1 which she declared was the chief secret of her wonderful ,english complexion4 8,into a wide-mouthed gallon jar ,i cram as many elder flower blossoms as it will hold4 ,over this ,i pour boiling water10 she said4 8,after letting the jar and its contents stand in a cool place for six hours1 ,i strain the liquid and pour a few tablespoonfuls of it into my bath40 ,the beautiful women of every civilized nation are nowadays taking less medicine and more baths4 ,the medical directors1 who are probably the greatest beauty doctors1 because they teach that beauty depends almost wholly on health1 are teaching them the tonic and sedative influences of the bath4 ,they are teaching them that of varieties of baths there is no end4 ,they tell them there is one sort of bath for the anmic person1 another for the too full-blooded person1 one for the person who sleeps too little1 another for the one who sleeps too much4 ,for every temperament and for every condition there is the special bath4 ,but there are some general rules which all should know4 ,for instance these3 ,the best average temperature for the bath is #fh to #gb degrees ,fahrenheit4 ,the temperature of the bath should always be tested before using4 ,the bath of cistern or rainwater is the best for the skin1 because it is the 8softest0--that is1 the purest water1 being unmixed with the minerals which well water collects on its tour through the various strata of earth1 and which 8hardens0 it4 ,the starch bath is one of the best to allay itching or cure annoying skin eruptions4 ,it is made like this3 ,into a tub of say ten gallons of water drop one-half pound of starch4 ,the gelatine bath serves a similar purpose4 ,it is soothing to an irritated skin4 ,the proportions are two hundred and fifty grams of white ,french gelatine to ten gallons of tepid water4 ,the cold bath is a stimulant for those who are strong enough to react from it4 ,the test is whether after the cold plunge the skin turns red4 ,if it turns blue the vitality is not sufficient to bear such heroic treatment4 ,cold baths should not be taken without the advice of a competent physician4 ,the hot bath is soothing1 but if taken too often is enervating4 ,once a week1 under ordinary circumstances1 is often enough for a hot bath4 ,the tepid bath1 graduated to a cool bath by letting the cold water run in as the warm water runs off1 is the best daily bath4 ,for the person who perspires excessively1 a wineglass of ammonia to ten gallons of water is a good corrective4 ,for the seaside bath1 five pounds of table salt dissolved in a tubful of water at home is a very good substitute4 ,this1 followed by a shower or spray1 will lend the illusion of ,ostend or ,atlantic ,city4 ,but besides these simple baths1 that any one may take1 there are some that are complex1 and that only those who have1 for a time at least1 some spare hours to spend at their toilets may trouble to take4 ,this is what my physician ordered when ,i had come from a ,russian tour1 weary from travel and in that state of depression that follows extreme weariness4 ,used in tepid water every morning ,i found it invigorating3 ,bromide of potassium1 #a gram2 carbonate of calcium1 #a gram2 carbonate of soda1 #cjj grams2 sulphate of soda1 #cjj grams2 sulphate of iron1 #c grams2 oil of lavender1 #a gram2 oil of thyme1 #a gram2 oil of rosemary1 #a gram4 ,the same physician recommended for the skin that was too sensitive to endure soap3 ,tincture of quillagac1 #aj grams2 glycerine1 #bj grains2 oil of bergamot1 #c drops4 ,the extremely nervous person1 whose skin is much irritated1 may take the starch bath ,i have described and add to it a pint of vinegar4 ,discreet bathing1 besides its first office of cleanliness1 aids and even cures anmia1 biliousness1 obesity1 rheumatism1 neuralgia and even ,st4 ,vitus's dance4 ,the hot water treatment for pimples is more efficacious than most medicines given for that purpose4 ,the application of soft cloths dipped in hot water has effected a cure in a few days4 ,a class of skin diseases that produce postules on the skin1 these postules eventually bursting and forming crusts1 are alleviated and sometimes cured by a systematic course of warm baths4 ,the falling of the crusts like dandruff1 and the gradual healing1 may be brought about by two warm baths daily4 ,tetter is one of these forms that has been cured by warm water baths and careful1 tender drying with soft towels4 ,an object lesson in the value of the warm bath in soothing the nervous system is seen in the case of children screaming with the colic1 who cease their cries and grow sleepy as soon as they are placed in a tub of warm water4 ,if possible1 bathe not less than two hours before eating nor less than three hours after eating4 ,never take a bath while very tired4 ,there will be no reaction--that is1 the blood will not leap to the surface as under favorable circumstances it makes its response to the bath1 and the bath will merely reduce further the lowered vitality4 ,a little exercise just before bathing and a little exercise after1 aids the good effects of the bath4 ,the exercise before opens the pores for the reception of the water4 ,the exercise afterward permits the entrance of sun and air into the pores too little accustomed to either4 ,light exercise after the drying of the skin with a soft towel and before enveloping it with clothes is a splendid tonic and a wonderful beautifier4 ,i know a half dozen beautiful ,parisiennes who have had their bathrooms built in that part of the house most exposed to the sunshine1 and at the top of the house1 and1 opening from these1 have built small sun parlors1 square rooms with roofs and sides entirely of glass4 ,here they exercise for from five to ten minutes1 jumping the rope or flexing the arms and legs and head4 ,one vigorous beauty has a blanket spread upon the floor of her sun parlor1 and upon this turns somersaults1 to make her body pliant and to assure herself that her circulation is free4 ,some of these exercises are illustrated by the silhouettes on this page4 ,during the sunbaths they are unclad1 or if clothed are merely wrapped in a light1 loose dressing gown4 ,after the bath and the exercise some ,parisiennes repose for an hour upon a couch in the sun parlor1 their hair hanging loose and their faces protected only by a delicate shade1 like a fire screen1 from the too strong rays of the sun4 ,bathe briskly in the water4 ,never stay in it more than twenty minutes4 ,indeed1 a good scrub can be taken in three minutes4 ,a brush is better than a sponge4 ,it pries open the pores4 ,do not use coarse towels4 ,they abrade the skin4 ,use soft towels or bath gloves4 ,dry thoroughly and quickly4 ,many bathe the face and neck first to prevent a possible unpleasant dash of blood to the head4 ,bathe in a room whose temperature is at least #fh or #gj degrees4 ,ordinarily the room should be as warm as the water in which you bathe4 ,for those who dislike soaps1 or if they do not dislike1 at least distrust them1 lanolin milk is a valuable aid or even a substitute for the bath3 ,lanolin1 #ce grains2 water1 ounce2 pure castile soap1 #cj grains4 ,pour the lanolin into the water4 ,heat slowly4 ,the soap should be dissolved in a half ounce of water4 ,mix and shake well4 ,glycerine soap is one of the best for the winter4 ,those soaps containing bran and oatmeal are also excellent for preserving the softness of the skin in this trying season4 ,almond meal poured into the wet hands and forming a paste1 which is gently rubbed upon the face and hands1 is the best substitute for soap for the face bath4 ,the ordinary daily bath is not enough for the feet1 which are of coarser fiber4 ,they have larger pores1 from which much perspiration is discharged4 ,and there is a greater discharge of dead matter from the soles of the feet than from any other part of the body of the same area4 ,for this reason and because the feet are more exposed to dust than any other part of the body except the face1 there should be a special daily footbath4 ,it is best to take this just before retiring4 ,it is1 by the way1 helpful in calling the blood away from the head to the feet4 ,i always take my footbath a little warmer than my body bath4 ,i scrub them with a flesh brush well soaped1 for there cannot1 fortunately1 be too much soap used upon the feet4 ,a teaspoonful of borax or a teaspoonful of ammonia aids the cleansing4 ,,chapter ,,xii ,,good ,,health ,,as ,a ,,foundation ,,for ,,beauty ,show me a woman who has indigestion and ,i will show you a person with muddy complexion1 dull or feverishly bright eyes1 a coated tongue and a languid manner4 ,none of these makes for beauty4 ,all are signs of ill-health4 ,besides these outward and visible signs of ill health1 it is a heavy weight upon the spirits4 ,the girl thinks she is unhappy1 and manufactures causes for misery1 or exaggerates the trifles that are not to her liking1 and makes them causes for unhappiness4 ,besides these1 indigestion causes yet graver troubles4 ,i recall several persons ,i knew who have since passed from the earthly plane1 whose decline in health began with various symptoms of indigestion4 ,it was never clear to me whether the indigestion was the cause or the effect of these maladies4 ,but ,i trust ,i have said enough to prove that indigestion is a most undesirable state4 ,vanity alone should forbid it4 ,how to prevent indigestion8 ,i shall have a great deal to say farther on about food wrong in kind or quality as a cause of indigestion4 ,but first let me tell you of an excellent exercise to discourage indigestion4 ,knead the abdomen on retiring and several times a day when there is opportunity4 ,double your hands as though for kneading bread4 ,place the clenched hands beneath the ribs4 ,press firmly and regularly upon the intestines1 moving the fists forward until they meet4 ,having done this five to ten times1 allow the left hand to rest at your side and with the right hand press gently but steadily downward at the left of the abdomen until your hand is opposite the thigh4 ,repeat this operation several times each time you take the exercise4 ,this is still more effective if taken while you are lying in your bathtub4 ,the relaxation of the muscles is aided by the fact that they are under water4 ,the hydropathic school believes this one of the greatest aids to restoring proper digestion4 ,much walking is an aid to digestion4 ,so is this exercise1 which can be taken in bed3 ,lying upon your back1 draw the knees slowly up beneath the chin1 then let the legs fall to their former position4 ,this is the most valuable of early morning exercises for those who have a torpid liver or some other form of indigestion4 ,coarse cereals are an enemy to indigestion4 ,seldom does one see a case of indigestion in ,scotland1 and if we do1 it is when we meet a queer ,scot who dislikes his national dish1 oatmeal4 ,oatmeal1 whole wheat1 rice1 all being large fibered foods1 stir the stomach and intestines to activity1 which is good for digestion4 ,again1 every girl should know some of the principles of the values of foods4 ,apply to your daily food these facts4 ,your food should consist of these proportions3 ,mixture of starches and sugars1 about #af parts4 ,proteids1 #d parts4 ,fats1 #b parts4 ,in other words1 one-half of our daily amount of food may be made up of potatoes1 rice1 bread1 etc4 ,one-eighth should consist of the proteids1 as milk1 or eggs1 or cheese4 ,one-sixteenth should be fat1 as butter or the fat to be found in meat or oil in dressing of salads4 ,keep this table in mind and you will find a new interest in choosing your food1 and in a short time you will welcome a marked improvement in your health4 ,do not decline sweets unless you are overweight1 but eat them at the right time1 which is as dessert for luncheon or dinner4 ,never eat cake or candy between meals4 ,turn resolutely away from all fried foods4 ,you have heard that fried foods are injurious1 but you do not know why4 ,it is my pleasure to tell you4 ,they are indigestible because they form in the stomach a substance as thick and unwieldy as leather1 and as difficult of digestion4 ,neither meats nor eggs nor milk should ever reach the boiling point4 ,for this reason never eat boiled beef1 nor a boiled egg1 nor milk that has been boiled4 ,the beef cut up in a stew that has simmered below the boiling point1 an egg that has been dropped into water just below the boiling point and allowed to heat there for eight minutes instead of boiling four1 and milk that has been heated but never permitted to show one of the bubbles that attend the boiling state1 are substitutes for the old forms1 and admirable ones4 ,keep this also in mind in selecting your food3 ,for the bones' formation we need lime1 and the cereals1 as oats and wheat and rice1 contain elements that make it4 ,sugar is converted into energy1 as the ,russian dancers well know1 for they eat inordinate quantities of candy and sweet paste1 yet1 because they exercise it off1 remain thin4 ,the fats1 as butter and meat fat1 cause warmth in the body1 so should be used more freely in winter than in summer4 ,bread is a good food if made of coarse grain4 ,contrary to the general opinion1 macaroni and spaghetti are good foods4 ,examine them in their raw state and you will see that they are yellowish4 ,that shows the presence of gluten1 which is valuable as an aid to digestion1 in bread form4 ,are you anmic8 ,then besides mild exercise in the open air1 always stopping before you are tired1 and massaging the body and face with feeding oils as lanolin and olive oil1 feed yourself generously with thickened broths and thick soups4 ,ham and bacon and mutton1 chicken and game are rebuilders of the weakened system1 and butter may be freely eaten4 ,for the anmic all kinds of fresh fish are nourishing4 ,so are oysters4 ,eggs are rebuilding agents4 ,so are bread and cakes1 tapioca and hominy4 ,much cream is desirable for the anmic1 and chocolate1 custards1 baked fruits and jellies are friendly foods in the circumstances4 ,avoid what especially taxes the digestion1 as veal or pork1 salt meats and heavy hashes4 ,bananas being among the most indigestible of the foods1 should be avoided4 ,if you are dyspeptic don't eat many things at one meal4 ,two or three dishes are enough4 ,if you have difficulty in digestion lie down before or after a meal4 ,for you vegetable soups as tomato1 asparagus1 pea and bean soups are aids4 ,oysters and fresh fish1 plainly broiled1 are among your dietetic friends4 ,squabs and sweetbreads and chicken that has been broiled are best4 ,your meats should be short-fibered and broiled until they are tender4 ,eat eggs with stale bread or dry toast4 ,eggs may be cooked in any way you wish except broiled or fried4 ,do not eat meats freely1 and if you eat any butter let it be very thinly spread4 ,if you eat bacon be sure that it is crisp and thoroughly done4 ,well baked potatoes1 tomatoes and spinach and boiled onions1 peas1 lima beans1 asparagus and stewed celery and lettuce are edibles you should choose4 ,do not eat fruits that are either very sour or very sweet4 ,the stomach of the dyspeptic is sensitive to extremes4 ,tea1 if made very weak and drunk clear and hot1 is beneficial4 ,so are milk and cocoa or chocolate1 if not too rich4 ,shun raw celery and cabbage and radishes4 ,if you are gouty or rheumatic be careful not to eat stimulating foods and avoid all stimulating liquors4 ,the gouty or rheumatic condition is caused by the deposit of acids in the joints1 and you should study how to eliminate these from the body4 ,alcohol1 sweets and strawberries add to them4 ,eat very slowly of the following3 ,thin vegetable soups1 fresh fish and raw oysters1 whitemeats1 as the breast of chicken1 sweetbreads and pigs' feet4 ,take the whites of eggs1 preferably raw4 ,toasted graham or whole wheat bread is the best for your condition4 ,zweiback and graham gems are also helpful4 ,for you celery1 lettuce1 cucumber1 cabbages1 young peas and string beans1 spinach1 those vegetables containing much water1 are excellent4 ,juicy fruits as oranges1 lemons1 apricots1 cranberries1 pears1 peaches1 better stewed or baked than raw1 are medicinal for you4 ,but eat no beef1 no fried dishes1 no ragouts nor hashes1 neither turkey nor duck nor goose1 no omelettes and no salt fish and no desserts except fruits4 ,if you drink tea or coffee let it be weak4 ,buttermilk is better for you1 and you more than any other class of person1 should drink water in large quantities4 ,if you are liverish or are troubled by bilious attacks eat less heavily than you have been doing4 ,choose white meats and fish1 and eat no fat part of the meat4 ,of vegetables eat much watercress and lettuce and spinach4 ,drink skimmed milk and that very slowly1 and eat only raw or poached eggs4 ,cornbread or bread made from whole wheat flour and hot water in which you have squeezed the juice of a lemon or orange will help you back to a state of health4 ,eat neither cheese nor potatoes1 oatmeal nor dried vegetables4 ,if you are neurasthenic never attempt the no-breakfast plan4 ,it is better for you if you can have your breakfast in bed4 ,the diet should be light4 ,meats1 fish1 eggs1 green vegetables and fruits are a helpful diet4 ,milk can be taken if the stomach does not reject it4 ,tea1 coffee1 tobacco and alcoholic drinks are forbidden to you4 ,train yourself to note your symptoms and treat them by diet4 ,when your face has a mottled appearance you may be sure that you are eating too much food of all sorts1 or that you are eating too much that is greasy or rich or sweet4 ,a chic ,parisian friend of mine when she notices such symptoms limits herself to one moderate meal a day--her dinner--and the earlier part of the day contents herself with fruits and salads1 drinking water moderately at these meals and copiously between them4 ,there are many times when we 8feel our bodies0 and are growing too heavy or too lazy that it is well to subsist for a few days on a liquid diet4 ,this nourishing drink strengthens the body even while the work of removing the remaining ashes from the body goes on3 ,whole barley1 #a tablespoonful2 a slice of lemon2 boiling water1 #b cupfuls4 ,place the barley and slice of lemon in an earthen dish4 ,over them pour the boiling water4 ,cover the dish and let the mixture stand for ten minutes4 ,then strain into another earthen dish4 ,the drink may be flavored with a small quantity of sugar if preferred4 ,the quantity given is ample for one nourishing meal for one person4 ,this is a drink often taken by athletes to refresh them during their training period in ,england1 but is useful to women taking a semi-fast for beauty's sake3 ,bran1 #b tablespoonfuls2 seeded raisins1 #a tablespoonful2 lemon1 #a thick slice4 ,chop the raisins fine and place them with the bran and lemon in an earthen bowl4 ,over these pour a half pint of boiling water4 ,let stand to cool and blend for ten minutes4 ,strain and drink while warm4 ,raisins are of special value in cleansing and toning the kidneys4 ,the water in which peeled apples have been stewed and to which a few currants have been added is a strengthening1 cooling and cleansing drink4 ,it is made more appetizing by the addition of a few cloves or a broken stick of cinnamon4 ,this is another tonic and refreshing drink during the time when you are eating little1 or nothing3 ,squeeze into a large coffee cup the juice of one orange4 ,fill the space remaining in the cup with boiling water4 ,add a teaspoonful of liquid honey and the same amount of lemon juice4 ,this1 too1 appeases hunger3 ,milk1 #a pint2 hot water1 #a pint4 ,slowly sip in lieu of a meal4 ,the use of water in a way prevents the clogging of the system that sometimes follows an exclusively milk diet4 ,a drink much in use in ,england1 that is half food1 half medicinal1 is this3 ,two tablespoonfuls of whole wheat2 a little caraway or celery seed to flavor4 ,into a pint bowl of boiling water stir the whole wheat after it has been ground4 ,add the caraway or celery seed4 ,sweeten1 if you wish1 with a half teaspoonful of powdered licorice4 ,nut drinks are among the strengthening beverages substituted for food during a beauty fast4 ,for example1 this3 ,ground peanuts1 #a tablespoonful2 boiling water1 #a cupful4 ,flavor with equal quantities of honey or lemon juice as desired4 ,perhaps you prefer meat juices in the thinning or rebuilding time4 ,in that case3 ,pour over finely chopped beef or chicken twice its bulk in boiling water if you wish the tea to be strong1 three times if weak4 ,some things there are that no one who wishes to be beautiful should ever take into the stomach4 ,those things should be contraband1 as poisons and leads4 ,they are3 ,sweets1 pastries1 anything very sweet or very sour1 anything very cold or very hot1 pork1 puddings other than those consisting chiefly of fruits1 and the doughnut1 or cruller1 which is fried dough4 ,i hear ,american women beseech me1 8,tell us what to eat and what not to eat1 so that we may be thin40 ,i answer1 8,eat foods containing cooling properties1 as limes1 soda and acids4 ,do not eat what contains sugar1 fat and starch40 ,shall ,i be more explicit8 ,very well1 then4 ,choose for your regular diet3 ,green vegetables1 boiled without grease and with a little salt2 string beans1 peas1 asparagus and spinach may be cooked in this way or dressed with oil and vinegar in which vinegar largely predominates2 stewed fruits1 as apricots1 prunelles1 apples1 kumquats1 cherries and plums1 with little sugar1 better with none2 lean meats1 rare beef and mutton1 roasted2 zweiback or gluten bread1 or1 if these be not available1 then the crust1 never the inner portion of wheaten bread2 green salads1 as lettuce1 romaine1 chicory or cucumbers1 with ,french dressing1 reducing the usual amount of oil and increasing that of the vinegar4 ,eat as little as you can subsist on and maintain your strength1 of any of these4 ,remember1 that while the stomach of each adult equals in size that of a quart measure1 it is wise to only half fill it2 that is1 to take into it at no time more than a pint of food or fluid1 or of both combined4 ,the distended stomach causes many intestinal troubles4 ,one of the results is that always unsightly spectacle1 a high abdomen4 ,foods it is wise for the stout beauty to avoid are3 ,fat meats1 gravies1 pastries1 cauliflower1 potatoes1 rice1 lima beans1 chocolate1 sweetened tea or coffee1 candy1 puddings and milk4 ,the beauty with the persistently blotched skin requires different food1 less food1 a more judicious dietary4 ,for her skin indicates some form of indigestion1 and the first step to cure indigestion is to give the digestive apparatus less work to do4 ,for that reason ,i should advise the beauty with spots upon her countenance to try for a few hours1 or1 if possible1 a few days1 the water cure4 ,let her1 so far as food is concerned1 fast1 if her physician permit1 and live as long as seems judicious on air and water4 ,the furnace of an engine must be cleansed occasionally of its clinkers4 ,so the intestinal tract must be cleansed of its obstructions4 ,i have said before in these pages that everyone should drink three quarts of water a day4 ,i repeat it4 ,if the stomach be very delicate the water may be taken hot1 but1 as ,i have also said before1 ,i have found that1 while hot water taken copiously into the stomach relieves a condition temporarily1 if the stomach continues habitually to be flooded with it1 it checks the flow of the gastric juices4 ,the gastric juices refuse to work1 pettishly leaving their functions to the intruder4 ,cold or cool water--never1 let me repeat1 ice water--should be taken so that when it reaches the stomach it is of nearly the same temperature4 ,it should be sipped and slowly swallowed2 never1 no matter how thirsty one may be1 gulped4 ,as well introduce a lump of ice suddenly into the stomach as a tumblerful of cold water4 ,if you have ever by accident swallowed a lump of ice you know how painful and violent is the stomach's protest4 ,never drink more than two glasses of water at a time4 ,a pint1 as ,i have pointed out1 is all that the stomach should be asked to retain at one time4 ,if the beauty1 the charm of whose face has been eclipsed by blotches1 desires1 she can increase the amount of water by a quart or more1 but this only when she is taking no food4 ,if she finds it more palatable1 three or four drops of lemon juice squeezed into a glass will help the cleansing process4 ,while she is taking the water cure she should take as much exercise out of doors as her strength will permit4 ,she must not continue the exercise after she becomes tired4 ,this water cure can be assisted by flushing the colon with warm water1 a subject with which ,i may deal more fully later4 ,sufficient at this time that the internal bath1 given as often as her physician directs1 is of great aid to her who would have a clear complexion4 ,the water and air cure has been continued1 under medical direction1 for one day1 three1 even five or six days1 with beneficial results4 ,the length will depend upon the strength of the person taking the cure4 ,when she resumes food she would do well to begin with warm milk4 ,beginning with one quart of milk a day1 the quantity can be increased to two and even three4 ,it should be remembered that milk is food1 rather than a beverage1 and should be consumed as such4 ,not less than five minutes should be given to drinking a glass of milk4 ,when food has been resumed bear in mind that if the spots upon your face are caused by acne 7blackheads7 tea and coffee should be avoided4 ,so should pastry1 cheese1 sauces and highly-seasoned foods4 ,on the other hand the beauty who would remove the small1 black blemishes may eat freely of well-cooked green vegetables and stewed fruits4 ,while following this cooling1 cleansing rgime1 ,i would suggest that pimples1 roughnesses and spots will the more quickly disappear if for three or more mornings the blood be cooled by a dose of one teaspoonful of ,epsom salts in a glass of warm water4 ,for the beauties who are too thin a diet that will enrich the blood is recommended4 ,for this condition fat meats1 gravies1 lima beans1 potatoes1 rice1 sweets--all those things above which ,i have written the flaming sign 8,don't0 for stout beauties--should be eaten4 ,when the cheeks and lips are pale1 the eyes dim1 the gait lagging and the body abnormally thin1 these conditions all indicate that there is a lack of iron in the system4 ,i use iron hypodermic injections myself1 preferring them because they save the stomach the disturbance that follows introducing medicines4 ,but if there is an objection to this iron may be taken in food form by eating the yolks of eggs1 spinach1 beets and string beans4 ,the same dietary will help the woman whose hair is falling or is prematurely gray4 ,the results1 though slow1 are beneficent4 ,i believe in fasting in moderation as an aid to the good health upon which beauty depends4 ,as fully as ,i indorse the beauty device of staying in bed now and then for a day or longer1 if circumstances permit1 one day of every ten1 ,i am convinced that an occasional fast is conducive to well being4 ,fasting confers benefits in general and in specific cases4 ,when persons are in that condition for which you have a nave word of description1 8logy10 which means heavy and listless1 fasting serves an excellent purpose4 ,usually the 8logy0 person has been overfed4 ,let her go back to nature for a lesson on how to cure herself of this disorder4 ,when an animal has eaten too much it usually crawls away to some dark and quiet place and fasts4 ,that is what the woman who has overtaxed her digestion should do4 ,at such times the animal drinks plentifully of water4 ,so should the human being4 ,when the digestion goes on strike humor it4 ,grant the overworked stomach and intestines a holiday4 ,let them suspend work for a time1 but only for a short time4 ,better1 in my opinion1 a forty-eight hour fast taken four times a month than a fast taken for eight consecutive days4 ,in general1 the body is better off for an occasional relief to the digestive organs4 ,but there are specific instances of the fast being of great benefit4 ,for instance1 ,i know a woman whose beautiful figure was seriously marred by an enlarged abdomen4 ,when she came to me for advice ,i asked her to stand and to walk4 ,i saw that she stood and walked well4 ,then ,i asked her to sit1 and ,i saw that her habit of sitting was correct4 ,she sat with her weight equally distributed and resting evenly on the balls of her feet4 ,she sat somewhat1 though not awkwardly1 forward in her chair1 so that her spine was straight4 ,in none of these postures was there any cause for the thrusting forward of the abdomen4 ,her corsets were good and new1 neither too tight nor too loose4 ,believing that this puffy1 vulgar appearance was due to some form of indigestion1 ,i suggested a short fast4 ,i recommended forty-eight hours without food and with plentiful drinking of hot water1 into each glassful of which was squeezed the juice of a lemon4 ,she repeated this every week for five weeks1 with no unpleasant results and with the flattening of the abdomen which she desired and which has greatly added to the loveliness of her figure4 ,there is much in favor of the semi-fast1 which is not so great a shock to the system4 ,when persons have passed their thirty-fifth year it is wise to give no such shock to the system4 ,better be as considerate of our own bodies as we are of the feelings of our beloved friends4 ,begin gently any radical departure in the habits of the body4 ,for this reason it is well to begin fasting by semi-fasting1 or by gradually diminishing the amount of food taken4 ,a plan that seems to me worthy is to forego solid foods1 and the first day subsist on milks1 gruel or soup4 ,of these the milk is better because more nourishing4 ,some persons don't like milk1 but1 it being the natural food1 everyone can train himself to like1 or1 at least1 to swallow it4 ,some to whom milk is repellent prevent its unpleasant after effects by placing in each glass a pinch of bicarbonate of soda4 ,i allow my appetite to govern the amount and the frequency of these meals of milk4 ,i always remember that milk is food and so consider that ,i eat1 rather than drink1 it4 ,five minutes at least for a glass ,i always permit myself4 ,sometimes ,i take ten4 ,the stomach having been gently prepared for the change1 it is ready by the second day for the water and lemon4 ,the lemon juice not only makes the water more palatable1 but it stimulates the liver1 so clearing the complexion4 ,when ready to break the fast ,i have found it well to accustom the stomach to the change back to food by sipping orange juice that has been pressed into a cup or glass1 then to begin eating again by consuming a small1 sweet orange4 ,i returned to regular diet by the easy way of soups and gruels4 ,my longest fast was for four days1 and ,i consider that one or two days too long4 ,in fact1 the safest method of fasting ,i consider the semi-fast1 with milk1 gruels and soups that ,i have described4 ,thus of the manner of fasts4 ,now as to their value4 ,catarrh ,i have known to be greatly relieved1 if not wholly cured1 by recurrent fasts4 ,rheumatism in its early stages has yielded to repeated short fasts and care to avoid sweets and beef in the intervals between these fasts4 ,even nervousness1 that form of it which is aggravated by rich and heavy foods1 ,i have known to disappear during one of these silent and dark room fasts1 the silence and rest being1 probably1 the chief agents4 ,a fairly good rule to follow is that whenever the tongue is coated the amount of food may be reduced1 or we would do well to have no food for a short time4 ,the coated tongue indicates that there is much dead1 refuse matter1 like the choking ashes in a furnace1 obstructing the body4 ,if you can fast until the tongue is once more clean and red you will be the gainer4 ,also when you feel your body1 that is1 when you are unpleasantly conscious of its weight and its handicap1 a fast will usually relieve you4 ,but a warning4 ,do not undertake a fast while you are doing your heaviest work4 ,fast when the demands upon you are lightest1 and fast1 if possible1 alone1 so that no one will be afflicted by the irritable temper that is liable to follow4 ,no one looks her best when she has not had enough sleep4 ,little lines come about the eyes1 deep creases form in the flesh about the mouth1 the eyes lose their light1 the facial muscles their firmness1 the complexion its freshness1 and1 what is most important1 the mind loses its alertness1 when we have not slept well4 ,irritability and supersensitiveness show in face and manner4 ,lack of sound sleep is due to two causes1 a brain under-nourished or over-stimulated4 ,sleeplessness1 or fitful1 restless sleep1 follows nervous derangement4 ,there may be indigestion1 cause or result of nervousness4 ,there may be worry4 ,there may be mental fag or nervous exhaustion4 ,but whatever form it takes the root of the matter is nearly always in the nerves4 ,this granted1 we must look to relieving the brain1 the main station along the line1 or we must supply it what it needs4 ,banish worry4 ,take plenty of exercise4 ,breathe much fresh air4 ,these are three excellent recipes for sleep4 ,if you find that you have been over-working1 lighten your work a little4 ,try to spend a day or two in the country1 if possible4 ,but this1 to a busy person1 is sometimes out of the question4 ,if that is the case with you try to retire an hour earlier4 ,some dread retiring earlier because they say they know they will not sleep4 ,try it at any rate4 ,lying in a dark room will bring a sense of rest that should soothe the nerves and tend toward sleep4 ,make sure that the room is at the right temperature for your comfort4 ,if it is too warm you will surely not sleep4 ,if it is cold to the point of discomfort1 you will lie awake4 ,sixty degrees ,fahr41 or less1 is a good temperature for a sleeping room4 ,be sure that the air of your bedroom is fresh4 ,if it seems stale or stuffy open the windows wide and either move actively about the room or go into any other one while this freshening is taking place4 ,it would be much better if the airing had continued all day and the air were as near the freshness of the out-of-doors as you could make it4 ,if your head aches from the strain of the day1 a bandage of cracked ice should drive the excess of blood from the head and permit sleep4 ,if1 on the other hand1 you are anmic1 and your feet are cold at night thrust them into a tub of hot mustard water4 ,place the elbow in the water first to test its temperature4 ,if it is too hot for the elbow it will certainly be too hot for the feet4 ,if you are annoyed1 while lying awake1 by a gnawing of the stomach1 proving that it is quite or nearly empty1 forestall this by sipping a cup of gruel before going to bed4 ,this will warm the stomach and quiet the nerve disturbance1 soothing the body for its rest4 ,a case of protracted insomnia ,i knew to be cured in this simple and1 it would seem1 did ,i not know the results1 trivial manner4 ,lie flat upon the bed with a low pillow--or1 better1 no pillow at all--and loosen your grip upon your muscles4 ,uncurl them1 so to speak4 ,relax as completely as does your house dog when he sleeps with his body stretched out1 nose upon his paws1 before the fire4 ,then breathe very deeply but gently counting six at each respiration4 ,to aid in this deep breathing1 press one nostril shut by laying the forefinger firmly against it and drawing the air through the other nostril4 ,repeat this a half dozen times1 counting six at each drawing in and letting out of the air4 ,call into use the hot-water bottle or the warming pan4 ,put on your bedroom slippers if you awake with cold feet4 ,pretend that you are sleepy1 even though you are not1 and let the eyelids slowly close as though drooping from their own weight or from weariness1 over your eyes4 ,this little device alone has been helpful in cases of insomnia4 ,the ,orientals give us good advice concerning sleep3 8,compose yourself4 ,be calm4 ,think on pleasant events before falling asleep10 say they1 8for upon whatever plane of thought you enter sleep you will remain during your slumber4 ,and those thoughts will stamp themselves upon the face40 ,one of the greatest menaces to feminine beauty to-day is nervousness--nervousness in all its forms1 neuritis1 neurasthenia1 nervous prostration1 hysteria4 ,all these prove that the little silver wires have been drawn too taut and that they are at the snapping point4 ,old age is the specter that stalks in the path of beauty4 ,it is the only thing of which beauty is afraid4 ,but nervousness presages age and the appearance of age4 ,observe one of your friends after a nervous attack4 ,she looks ten years older4 ,the tumult of her emotions has etched ugly new lines in her face1 from nose to lips1 along the temples and between the eyes4 ,if she catches sight of her face in the mirror at such a time she is appalled1 for she has a vision of the sort of old woman she will become4 ,to keep young1 discourage very nervous outbreak4 ,every woman needs a calm mental center4 ,she must have some place of spiritual and mental retreat from her tumult of soul if it is only the reflection3 8,in a year it won't matter40 ,she should fly to this whenever a tumult of the nerves threatens4 ,i know a woman who cured her habit of flying into tempers1 which is only another expression of jangled nerves1 by saying over and over to herself3 8,it is vulgar to show temper4 ,whatever else ,i am ,i will not be vulgar40 ,her face1 which had begun to show the etching of deep1 stormy emotions has become a smooth1 beautiful mask1 whose expression lies where expression should1 in the flash of a sudden smile and the quick lighting of brilliant eyes4 ,need ,i recount the symptoms of disordered nerves8 ,not to mature women4 ,they know them too well4 ,but for the benefit of my younger readers to whom nerves are yet happily only names1 ,i will describe a few4 ,irritability of temper is one1 the most common1 and the one which occasions the least sympathy4 ,exceeding sensitiveness1 which makes the person prone to take offense when no offense is intended1 is another4 ,depression of spirits as often results from tired nerves as from an overburdened liver4 ,the habit of 8making monkey faces0 which ,i have so often noticed in ,american women4 ,the habit of making many and needless movements4 ,the girl who flings her head aloft in aimless little gestures may think she is vivacious1 but vivacity is rather of the mind than of the body4 ,she is merely revealing the unpleasant secret that her nervous system is impaired4 ,capricious appetite is one of the symptoms4 ,the nervous patient eats either too little or too much1 and she may eat too little breakfast and too much dinner on the same day4 ,insomnia is a sure and serious sign of derangement of the nerves4 ,the inability to sit still for a considerable time is still another and very bad sign that the nerves are as you say here 8ragged0 or 8jumpy40 ,i have seen one of your most distinguished and beautiful women suffer from this inability while at the theater1 and to preclude jokes by the paragraphers1 ,i will explain that it was at a very good play1 where no person in the normal state could possibly be bored4 ,i have seen her lovely hands twitch in her lap4 ,i have seen her knees create a silken tempest among the folds of her gown4 ,into her face ,i have seen 8that worried look0 come1 the look that so disfigures the average ,american face4 ,this overwrought state of nerves has many causes4 ,sometimes it is a bad heredity4 ,the daughters of men with the alcoholic habit1 of overworked and over-worried financiers1 often suffer from this predisposition of nerves4 ,the daughters of fashionable mothers who laced too tightly or who followed the will-o'-the-wisp of society too persistently for their health's sake1 often so suffer4 ,stimulants taken by the victim herself often produce it4 ,beware of these stimulants in many guises4 ,some of the headache powders open the gate to acute nervousness4 ,don't use any without your physician's endorsement4 ,but ,i believe that the chief cause of nervousness is intemperance1 not of alcoholic or other stimulants1 but of mental habits4 ,worry causes a thousand breakdowns4 ,i never knew work to cause one4 ,for those symptoms of nervous affection which ,i have mentioned ,i have tried home treatment with success4 ,one of the best methods has been stretching4 ,standing on my tiptoes1 raising my heels far from the floor1 standing as nearly in that straight line from toe to knee which ,genee does so admirably1 as ,i can1 ,i stretch and stretch my body1 fancying ,i am an ,india rubber woman and getting great fun out of trying just how tall ,i can make myself4 ,sometimes ,i raise my arms above my head with finger tips extended1 and play again that ,i am trying to reach the ceiling4 ,the value in stretching is largely in the pleasure one gets from it4 ,for this reason ,i never continue one posture after it has become tiresome4 ,dropping to my heels and standing with my soles flat upon the floor1 ,i stretch the arms out at right angles with the sides4 ,the fact that one is always moved to yawn with this exercise shows that it is valuable4 ,for yawning is nature's violent means of ridding the body of an excess of impure air and securing a new supply4 ,if you can yawn naturally1 do so while stretching or at any other time4 ,if you cannot yawn naturally1 yawn artificially--that is1 simulate a yawn4 ,it is at least as helpful to respiration as the ,turkish bath is to perspiration4 ,they are both substitutes for the natural process4 ,lettuce salad1 both at luncheon and dinner1 or raw onions eaten with bread and butter at night before retiring1 calm the nerves and aid sleep4 ,light--that is surface--massage is a good corrective for nervousness4 ,deep1 seeking-the-bone massage1 which is used for liver complaint and for obesity1 is too severe for the nervous patient4 ,besides1 so many of the nerves lie near the skin that the region of the skin is the real seat of operations for cure4 ,light massage by coaxing the blood to the surface and inducing a new and stronger interflow among the nerves1 feeds and strengthens them4 ,electrical treatment applied to the seat of the nervous affection1 as well as to the spine1 is a means that has stimulated many depressed1 nervous patients4 ,this ,i advise only under the supervision1 or at least by the direction1 of a physician4 ,long walks1 and for disturbed nerves walking is better than driving1 have cured many cases of nerve exhaustion4 ,cold plunges or showers are recommended by many physicians for diminished nerve force4 ,but the patient should be sure the advice is adapted to her individual case1 and she should be sure of her heart4 ,neither the plunge nor the shower should be taken until a physician has prescribed them4 ,cold sprays upon the spine given at ,turkish baths are tonic to the nervous system4 ,they1 too1 can be applied at home4 ,the rubber tube fixtures for a spray can be bought for ninety cents1 and can take the place of the expensive shower attachments4 ,for tic douloreux1 for pains at the ends of the nerves1 for spinal affections and for vertigo1 one needs the aid of a physician4 ,but in all nervous affections we must aid the physician by intelligent care of ourselves and conservation of our energies4 ,never waste your nervous force by unnecessary movements4 ,deep breathing is helpful in correcting a nervous tendency1 and improving the general health4 ,this is no strange or obscure act4 ,it is simply breathing as deeply as you can1 from the very depths of your being1 8clear to your toes10 a little girl put it--not breathing shallowly from a space somewhere near the collarbone4 ,i always recognize a shallow breather at sight4 ,usually she is round shouldered4 ,always she has a pale skin1 pinched nostrils1 dull eyes and a languid walk4 ,always she has little or no magnetism4 ,the magnetic person is one who is most fully alive4 ,but how to acquire the habit of deep breathing is the important thing4 ,summon imagination to your aid4 ,stand at the open window or go to a garden or to a roof where the air is purest1 and imagine that you smell the fragrance of a rose4 ,determine to draw into your being all the fragrance you can gather4 ,stand erect and draw in as much air as your lungs seem capable of holding4 ,hold that breath2 that is1 keep the air in the lungs so that it may do its cleansing work1 while you count five4 ,that is equivalent to five seconds4 ,gently empty the lungs of the air4 ,then slowly fill the lungs again1 hold as long as you can and slowly expel the air4 ,you will learn to hold the breath longer and longer4 ,expert and experienced deep breathers can hold the air newly taken into the lungs for fifty seconds4 ,but no beginner in the art should expect1 nor try to do this4 ,at first the practice may cause a sensation of dizziness4 ,but this is not alarming4 ,on the other hand1 it is encouraging4 ,it means that the poor1 pale1 ill-nourished brain is receiving as large a blood supply as it needs and it will soon become used to your new generosity4 ,if you are not so situated that you can get to a garden1 a roof or open window1 try to go alone to a room where you can recline for a few minutes4 ,there let the muscles become limp4 ,folding the arms above the breast or clasping the hands loosely above the stomach will aid this4 ,to be sure that both nostrils are doing perfect work1 press one shut by placing the finger against it and breathing through the other4 ,generally you will discover that the left nostril draws a larger volume of air through it than does the right4 ,i have noticed it very frequently while doing my deep breathing4 ,test the correctness of your breathing by placing your hands against your abdomen4 ,if its walls rise and fall regularly and in obedience to every breath1 you are doing deep breathing4 ,if not1 you have not mastered the art4 ,in two weeks1 by repeating these exercises six or eight times a day for two or three minutes each time1 you will not only have learned how1 but you will have derived such benefit from it that you would not ever forget giving up so healthful and improving a practice4 ,what does it do for one8 ,i can hear as an echo this question1 impatiently put by practical ,american women4 ,that is the feminine variation of the question often heard in ,america3 8,what do ,i get out of it80 ,you get out of it free1 well developed lungs4 ,you get chest expansion4 ,you get1 if you begin early enough1 immunity from that dread disease1 tuberculosis4 ,you get quieted nerves and an improved temper4 ,you get pure blood which will make your complexion clear4 ,you energize the whole body and stimulate your vital forces4 ,,chapter ,,xiii ,,how ,,to ,,acquire ,a ,,pleasing ,,voice ,if you would have a beautiful voice shun its two greatest enemies1 coryza 7cold in the head7 and the evil emotions4 ,every woman would have a beautiful voice1 for it is indeed one of the most excellent things in woman4 ,to my mind it is the most desirable possession in the world4 ,but then ,i am a singer4 ,i wish only to be a singer4 ,if the singing voice were denied me ,i should choose1 if ,i might have my choice1 first a lovely face1 then a lovely figure1 and third a charming speaking voice4 ,there have been beautiful women without agreeable voices1 but never a fascinating one4 ,the voice rather than the eyes is the seat of magnetism4 ,many a plain woman has enjoyed that invaluable gift of personal magnetism and students of character have been baffled by it until they guessed the riddle of her voice4 ,plain women with low1 well modulated voices with the heart note in them1 are more dangerous rivals than pretty women who screech as peacocks4 ,painfully often the pretty face and figure are accompanied by the harsh1 squeaking voice4 ,the reason is the same that exists for the fact that pretty women seldom cultivate the power of charm4 ,content with what nature has given them1 they make no effort to be responsive or entertaining4 ,their voices fall gratingly upon all ears but their own1 which have been dulled by praise of their natural beauty4 ,every woman may not have a sweet voice1 but every woman may have an agreeable one4 ,the pleasantest speaking voice is more often made than born4 ,it is susceptible of cultivation4 ,the uncultivated voice reflects the emotions as candidly as the eye mirror forth the soul4 ,culture of person and voice gradually suppress1 or at least restrain1 this faculty4 ,if the voice be pleasant it should reflect only pleasant things4 ,this1 let it be understood1 applies only to the speaking voice4 ,i am not giving in this article a singing lesson4 ,anger1 suspicion1 jealousy1 covetousness1 if they be felt1 must be imprisoned in the spirit4 ,as disfiguring to voice as face are these which have been called 8the dark emotions40 ,if they cannot be eliminated from the soul they must be driven out of the voice4 ,the dark emotions make the voice harsh4 ,the silly emotions make it shrill4 ,mental and character poise are the father and mother of the beautiful speaking voice4 ,coryza 7cold in the head7 is a menace to the voice4 ,hoarseness hides the beauties of a voice as a thick veil the face of a woman4 ,colds should be avoided4 ,or having been contracted1 they should as quickly as possible be cured4 ,many women of full habit who1 as they say1 8feel a cold coming on10 go immediately to the ,turkish baths1 and by drastic treatment rid themselves quickly of it4 ,this1 if followed by great care to prevent catching a fresh cold immediately after the bath1 is a good remedy4 ,so1 too1 is the ancient one of retiring early and with many blankets added to the usual amount of bed clothing to coax a heavy perspiration4 ,this can be greatly aided by the other old-fashioned remedy of a glass of hot lemonade4 ,a moderate dose of quinine is also effective in 8breaking up a cold40 ,the roots of the disease having thus been plucked up1 the accompanying ugliness caused by rheumy eyes1 swollen1 scarlet nose and 8running0 nostrils1 can be gradually cured by inhalations and gargles4 ,a yeoman remedy is the sniffing into the nostrils of quite strong salt water4 ,another that is excellent is the sniffing of pulverized camphor4 ,a third is a nasal sweeping by the inhalation of ammonia4 ,strong aromatic vinegars serve the same purpose4 ,this is a valuable one1 agreeable and less expensive than the elaborate one used by the beauties of the ,french court3 ,glacial acetic acid1 #a ounces2 rose water1 #b ounces2 lavender water1 #a pint4 ,this is powerful as well as pleasing and will reward the user for the pains of mixing the many ingredients3 ,glacial acetic acid1 pound2 rectified spirits of wine1 #a ounce2 oil of neroli1 dram2 oil of allspice1 dram2 oil of lavender1 dram2 pure oil of cinnamon1 dram2 oil of bergamot1 dram2 oil of rosemary1 dram2 oil of cloves1 dram2 pulverized camphor1 #a ounces4 ,this is very strong and age makes it stronger4 ,it is most advantageously used by pouring a few drops of it upon a silk sponge and inhaling4 ,avoid its contact with skin and clothes4 ,a third tonic vinegar useful for inhalation is this3 ,white vinegar1 #a pint2 extract of lavender1 #ae grams2 oil of bergamot1 #f grams2 oil of citron1 #e grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #f grams4 ,sage tea in which a small quantity of eucalyptus has been distilled is excellent for cleansing the nasal cavities after a cold4 ,beauties of many courts and times have removed the husky quality from their voices by inhaling the vapor from a concoction of3 ,sweet milk1 #a pint2 ripe figs1 dozen4 ,these should be boiled to a pulp and inhaled while hot4 ,the mixture can be heated again and again and the vapor from it inhaled1 until the cure is effected4 ,i am glad to see that fig and apricot paste has been imported from the ,orient1 for ,persian women have successfully used this jam-like confection and medicine for many generations for the cure of hoarseness4 ,weak elderflower tea is an admirable remedy4 ,an infusion of chickweed is also recommended4 ,these latter should be inhaled4 ,the fig and apricot paste is1 of course1 for internal use4 ,mme4 ,pompadour1 the famous ,french beauty1 used to clear her voice of huskiness by inhaling the fumes of3 ,pulverized myrrh1 #a ounce2 amber1 #ej grains4 ,a husky voice indicates that the throat is dry4 ,our ancestresses knew this and made their children drink much sweet milk or buttermilk to remove hoarseness4 ,the poor singer seeking relief from that distress by sucking a lemon has been a subject for caricaturists for twenty years4 ,but the ludicrous practice has a basis in common sense4 ,a lemon is a broom for the throat4 ,a raw egg beaten with the lemon juice serves that purpose and is soothing to the burning throat4 ,while ,i was singing in ,philadelphia ,i acquired a bad cold4 ,one of the old families who had always extended me the courtesy of their home and friendship offered me a cough syrup they called 8,stewed ,quaker40 ,it was so quickly efficacious that ,i asked for the formula4 ,here it is3 ,new ,orleans molasses1 pint2 butter1 #a tablespoonful2 white sugar1 #a teaspoonful2 vinegar1 #a tablespoonful4 ,cold compresses often cure a sore throat over night4 ,into ice cold water dip a fold of cotton cloth4 ,wring it out only dry enough to prevent its dripping4 ,pin this tightly around the throat with safety pins1 and over the compress pin a fold of flannel4 ,soon the heat from the neck causes vapor and 8loosens the cold40 ,in the morning remove the compress and massage the neck with olive oil4 ,if you value your voice try to avoid that protracted unpleasantness which is known as a summer cold4 ,to best understand how to prevent a cold1 let us perfectly understand its causes4 ,i say causes1 not cause for an authority on the subject has recently said that there are four conditions that bring about the annoying and dangerous condition we call 8a cold40 ,there must be lowered vitality4 ,in other words1 a person may be in that state we describe as 8run down40 ,when we are run down or 8seedy10 as they say in ,england1 our resistance is lessened2 we are like a besieged town whose walls are falling4 ,in this unprotected state we have little chance against a cold4 ,a similar condition is fatigue4 ,we are more prone to catch cold when we are tired1 because the good white corpuscles in the blood1 the body's defenders1 are lessened by weariness4 ,also fatigue creates an excess of certain gases in the body1 carbonic acid gas among others1 and these self-poisons weaken the body and open the doors to cold4 ,now1 how to prevent a cold4 ,keep your liver active4 ,if it becomes lazy take plenty of exercise to stir it into activity4 ,if the liver is torpid1 the poison it should take care of is cast upon the mucous membrane1 irritating it and causing catarrh4 ,be sure that your digestion is the best and that the intestinal tract is kept clear4 ,unless you do this there may be an irritation of the lining of the intestines that will cause all of the alimentary tract to become catarrhal4 ,this1 in turn1 will extend to the nose and throat4 ,to avoid indigestion1 be careful that you eat only nourishing foods4 ,tuberculosis is more common in the poorer quarters of every city1 especially of ,london1 and physicians have concluded that this is not because they do not have enough to eat1 but because they eat too many starchy foods1 as pastry and potatoes1 and too many sweets1 as candy4 ,prevent a cold by activity4 ,why do you catch a cold when you lie down without any covering except the garments you are wearing8 ,because when you are inactive your body is relaxed and the temperature is lowered4 ,exercise much1 keep the blood flowing briskly1 and you will generally avoid colds4 ,but be not satisfied with avoiding stagnant blood4 ,avoid stagnant air4 ,keep the air circulating in the room you occupy4 ,try to keep a stream of fresh air flowing through your room4 ,at any rate1 keep the window open two or three inches at the top1 no matter what the weather4 ,cold plunge or shower or sponge baths harden the skin and help to make one immune from colds1 but before beginning to take them ask a physician's advice4 ,you may not have enough vitality to endure the ordeal4 ,if you have your physician's 8,o4 ,k410 the best time to begin is in the summer4 ,avoid coughing when you can1 for coughing is sometimes merely a nervous habit4 ,besides1 a cough irritates the lining of the throat4 ,the old-fashioned remedy for a cold1 of swallowing a mixture of equal parts of vinegar and molasses1 is as good now as it was when our grandmothers dosed us plentifully and effectually for hoarseness4 ,a pleasanter and perhaps more refined remedy is the plentiful use of honey4 ,use it freely on bread or with rice at table and swallow a tablespoonful of it whenever between meals you feel the tickling sensation that precedes coughing4 ,gargling with strong salt water often clears the throat1 saving fits of violent coughing4 ,a good method1 and a simple one1 of relief from violent coughing is to place upon the chest hot cloths1 followed by cold ones1 then hot1 then cold1 so alternating many times4 ,this restablishes natural circulation and restored circulation means relief from cold4 ,,chapter ,,xiv ,,how ,,to ,,improve ,,your ,,figure ,frankly determine how far your figure falls short of perfection4 ,perfection1 that is1 according to the canons of classic statuary4 ,the standards of the ,greek sculptors have never been improved4 ,these are their undeviating rules3 ,the figure should be exactly six times as long as the foot4 ,the face from the middle point of the hair line to the point of the chin should be one-tenth of the entire stature4 ,the hand from the tip of the middle finger to the end of the palm should be of the same length as the face1 and so also one-tenth of the length of the body4 ,from the highest point of the forehead to the beginning of the chest should be one-seventh of the length of the body4 ,if the face from the hair line to the point of the chin is divided into three parts the first line of division is the point equidistant from the lowest points of the eyebrows4 ,the second division line is that directly beneath the nostrils4 ,the body when standing with the arms extended horizontally should form a human ,maltese cross4 ,the length of the body should be the same as the distance across the body from the middle finger of one hand to the middle finger of the other4 ,the ideal face of the sculptors has always been pear-shaped1 diminishing from a noble width at the forehead and top of the head to a slim delicacy of chin4 ,the trend of feature formation in this age of personal dominance is in another direction1 toward a widening and increasing of the weight of the jaw4 ,this adds to the impression of strength of character1 but it subtracts much from the sum of the beauty of a face4 ,i have referred to the face because ,i wish to apply it as a determining factor in judging the beauty of the figure4 ,the sculptor's test of the beauty of a face is its profile4 ,if the profile is strong and beautiful1 the face is equally strong and beautiful4 ,in other words1 the beauty of a face cannot exceed that of its profile4 ,so the determining view of a figure as to its beauties or its defects is the profile view4 ,the woman who would improve her figure should study it critically from the side4 ,for this reason1 the woman who sells her easy chair and buys a duplex or triple mirror is an economist of her own beauty4 ,determine in what respect your figure varies from the canons of beauty1 and try to conform to them4 ,are you a little too short for the breadth of your figure8 ,stretching exercises should add somewhat to your height4 ,stand before the open window1 and with hands back to back1 the finger tips touching1 rise upon your toes and stretch to your greatest height4 ,so the woman who would be taller should recline a great deal1 take as much sleep as possible4 ,physiologists have proven that the body is considerably taller in the morning than in the evening4 ,this is because the muscles and joints have relaxed1 while during the varied exercises of the day they have contracted4 ,the mass of muscles have much in common with india rubber--they have elastic properties4 ,the critical view in the duplex or triple mirror may reveal that the figure is too broad or too thick for its height4 ,if too broad the defect is serious1 and will be difficult1 if not impossible1 of remedy4 ,if too thick1 diet1 exercise or massage1 or all of these1 may be summoned4 ,breadth reveals the framework of the body1 indicating usually that it is too massive4 ,you cannot change the framework of a bridge1 nor yet of the human body4 ,the modification must take place in that which covers it1 the layers of muscles and fat4 ,the figure that is too thick1 that is from front to back of waist1 or from the middle of the spinal column to the point of the bust1 may be materially improved4 ,for this improvement ,i would look first to the back--,i always notice instantly whether the back be straight and flat or round and full4 ,for in that difference lies much of the elegance or lack of it in a female figure4 ,if the back is full and the hips bulge1 the waist is large the figure has no elegance2 is1 indeed1 common4 ,if you are the possessor of such blemishes to beauty you should at once set at work to remove the defects4 ,first give attention to your diet4 ,eat much less than usual4 ,say reduce your diet at the beginning by one-quarter1 then one-third1 and after that one-half4 ,the slimming results will soon become apparent4 ,but do not be satisfied with one means of securing a flatter back and slender hips4 ,exercise1 especially in the open air4 ,walk1 walk1 walk1 beginning with a short walk if you are unaccustomed to walking1 and increasing the distance each day4 ,and if possible have recourse to massage4 ,i have before said in this series of articles that ,i consider massage the first aid to beauty4 ,it has always seemed to me a cure-all for defects in beauty4 ,it improves the complexion1 improves the figure1 brightens the expression and makes more beautiful the eyes4 ,therefore1 to give the flat back and narrow hips that are part of an elegant figure1 ,i advise deep massage1 with an astringent liquid preparation4 ,some adventurous women have taken internal remedies under the advice of their physician1 which is the only safe way to take any internal obesity medicine4 ,i have never advised reduction remedies to be so taken4 ,by absorption1 however1 ,i consider this to be a good remedy for over-development3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #d ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 #a dram2 extract of ,portugal1 #d ounces2 oil of neroli1 #bj drops4 ,this1 too1 is a good astringent lotion3 ,tincture of iodine1 #cj minims2 iodide of potassium1 #fj grams2 distilled water1 #aj ounces2 aniseed water1 #agj minims4 ,also this3 ,tincture of iodine1 #a ounce2 alcohol1 #aj ounces4 ,if1 on the other hand1 the critical side view reveals not only the back and sides as too thin1 but the entire outline as too meager1 then this cream1 freely applied by light and frequent massage1 is an aid in curve-making and flesh-building3 ,fresh mutton tallow1 #f ounces2 lanolin1 #f ounces2 spermaceti1 ounce2 cocoanut oil1 #d ounces4 ,this1 too1 is a good tissue-feeding cream3 ,lanolin1 #fj grams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #dj grams2 tannin1 #a gram4 ,women who think their busts are too large write me often asking how they may reduce them4 ,personally1 ,i do not approve of any treatment1 except a general dietary and general exercise1 such as tends to reduce all portions of the body4 ,in view of the many requests ,i receive from determined women begging such a recipe1 ,i give this ,european formula1 but ,i protest against any woman using it unless with the sanction of her physician3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #ajj grams2 white wax1 #ej grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #be grams2 rosewater1 #be grams2 tannin1 #ae grams4 ,after exercise and diet for improving the figure1 there is nothing so important as to be well corseted4 ,if possible have your corsets made to order4 ,pay less for a gown if necessary to order a better corset4 ,get one that is pliable and hygienic and yet molds the figure into its best lines4 ,to fit well the hips should be the first consideration4 ,the rest of the body can take very good care of itself4 ,yet the corset should not be too tight about the hips nor abdomen4 ,for this reason ,i always advise that there be rubber webbing in the sides of the corset4 ,every corset should have eight elastics4 ,yes1 ,i mean it--four on each side4 ,these elastics not only hold the hose in well1 but they hold in the abdomen and hips4 ,the first pair of elastics should be fastened directly in front1 on either side of the steel fronts of the corset4 ,the next pair should be about an inch1 or on a very stout woman two inches1 to the right and left respectively4 ,the third pair should be directly over the hips4 ,the fourth should be at the back4 ,while at first this maze of garters seems a hopeless tangle1 one soon acquires the knack of fastening them4 ,they add much to the trigness and tautness that contribute elegance to the figure4 ,the fourth desideratum is a good carriage4 ,keep the shoulders and abdomen back4 ,keep the bust and the chin up4 ,swing the hips well forward when you walk4 ,observe all women who are stout1 that is1 heavily stout4 ,there is a distinction4 ,women may be stout and yet carry their bodies as though they were weightless4 ,others of no greater bulk walk as though they were weighted down with invisible handicaps4 ,the heavily stout woman walks with her hips back4 ,in this faulty carriage lies much of her awkwardness and apparent weight4 ,walk on the balls of your feet1 lightly4 ,this becomes a habit that renders a woman graceful and almost without apparent weight4 ,for the consolation of women who have shapely figures1 though built upon an ample scale1 let me quote this dictum of an authority on womanly beauty3 8,it isn't the size1 but the shape that counts4 ,proportion is the thing40 ,some women are really tall enough1 but they look dumpy4 ,the thing for them to do at once is to reduce their weight4 8,if you reduce your hips you will look taller0 is an axiom of the beauty culturists4 ,so set about it4 ,if you are short and thin1 then hasten to broaden your shoulders1 expand and inflate your lungs2 draw back your elbows and breathe deeply4 ,fill out your bust and chest4 ,this will actually make you taller and appear more so4 ,short girls generally carry themselves badly4 ,keep your head thrown back and your chin out4 ,the woman who keeps her chin down in her neck always looks shorter than she is4 ,take physical culture lessons1 all you short girls who would be tall2 learn to walk gracefully1 and train your muscles into suppleness4 ,take walks in the open air with a light1 buoyant step1 your shoulders thrown back1 breathing deeply through your nose4 ,and stretch yourself1 every moment of the day when you can4 ,three inches1 real or apparent1 may be added to a woman's stature by a little common sense4 ,the short girl who would be tall should go in systematically for stretching exercises4 ,lie down flat and stretch out your arms as far as possible above your head4 ,also practice neck movements--keep on stretching your neck out just like a goose1 to elongate it4 ,stretch your legs out taut and keep stretching yourself on tiptoe4 ,hold up your chin and your abdomen1 and stretch continually4 ,here are some excellent stretching exercises to make you supple and straight--and taller3 ,lie flat on your back on a hard mattress4 ,plant palms downward straight at the sides1 but do not grip the ticking with them4 ,now draw the legs up slowly1 bending at the knees1 and holding the knees in the air and heels close to the body4 ,now1 with a quick1 sudden movement1 thrust the legs out straight and flat on the bed1 the toes stretched as far as possible and pointing down4 ,this brings into play every muscle from the knee to the tip of the toes and sets the limbs tingling4 ,draw up slowly1 counting seven and inhaling2 hold position through seven counts1 and again thrust down1 exhaling through the mouth4 ,rest four counts and repeat4 ,lie flat on the back1 heels and balls of the feet together1 arms at sides1 palms down4 ,breathe slowly seven times4 ,now1 with the shoulders or upper part of the trunk rigidly flat on the bed1 raise the middle of the trunk1 generally known as the waist line1 by the muscles of the hips4 ,inhale as you lift1 counting seven2 exhale as you fall4 ,next inhale deeply and lift the lower part of the trunk and let it fall in quick succession1 repeating the movement perhaps five times while inhaling once4 ,reverse the exercise described above2 that is1 let the lower part of the trunk rest on the bed and lift from the waist line up by means of the muscles of the shoulder blades4 ,use the same methods of counting1 inhaling while counting seven2 hold the position1 then lower the trunk1 counting seven1 and exhaling4 ,then work rapidly1 with five quick uplifts to each breath4 ,it is well to scan your figure occasionally in the mirror--to satisfactorily do this you need a full length mirror--and decide what are its flaws and how to rid yourself of them4 ,perhaps you have a disfiguring stoop4 ,rid yourself of this1 if necessary1 by wearing shoulder braces4 ,you can buy strong1 reliable ones at most drug stores1 and you can make them for yourself with two strong stitched bands of muslin to which cross pieces are attached4 ,fasten these to your corsets by safety pins4 ,perhaps that apparent stoop is due not to actual bending of the shoulders but to a roll of superfluous fat that accumulates just below the neck on women who have attained thirty years1 or even before4 ,remove this unsightly blemish by several methods4 ,first1 throw away your pillow and lie with head and feet on a level4 ,form the habit of standing very erect4 ,stretch your arms sideways and on a level with your shoulders and twirl them rapidly backward4 ,there are always several preparations which can be used to advantage if applied outwardly4 ,bathe the shoulders every night with this1 rubbing it thoroughly into the shoulders3 ,iodide of potassium1 #a ounce2 alcohol1 #ab ounces4 ,if your limbs are too heavy1 as is liable to be the case in ,america1 where women's figures are not so well proportioned as in many other countries1 the lower part of the body being disposed to stoutness1 walk much4 ,this will reduce the bulk of the fat and make the muscles solid4 ,occasionally ,i receive letters asking me to tell a girl how to make the limbs larger and more shapely4 ,massage with olive oil should enlarge them4 ,to inquiries as to how to make the thin ankles plumper ,i make the same reply4 ,no figure is attractive if the hips are out of proportion to the rest of the body4 ,they should be neither too large nor too small1 but in perfect accord with the rest of the figure4 ,if the rest of the figure is thin and the hips plump the effect is ludicrous4 ,if the body is ample and the hips flat the hips are incongruous4 ,fashion may dictate broad hips one season and narrow hips the next1 but their ideal size remains the same4 ,they must look as though they belong to that body and no other4 ,they should be amphora shaped1 as any sculptor will tell you4 ,an amphora1 you know1 is a large ,roman vase with lines exquisitely curved downward4 ,study the pictures of statues of the ancient ,greeks and you will comprehend the beauty of the hip line in the natural figure4 ,they are neither over heavy nor too thin4 ,the bones should be well covered1 but there should be no fat creases and no loose hanging skin4 ,if there is too little flesh applications of olive oil will increase it4 ,but the fault in the ,american woman's figure is that she is unduly developed about the hips4 ,for this figure blemish it would be absurd to bant1 for her whole body would diminish under it and the hips remain proportionately as large as before4 ,massage and exercise are the hope of the woman of overdeveloped hips4 ,rub briskly and firmly1 with a strong slapping motion1 this mixture1 prepared especially for each application4 ,unsweetened butter1 #a tablespoonful2 tincture of iodine1 #bj drops4 ,long corsets that are not too tight keep up a continual gentle friction that helps to some extent in reducing the hips1 but these should never be worn so tight as to compress the inner organs nor constrict the muscles4 ,better too redundant hips than an interference with the circulation1 which may cause varicose veins or other serious complications4 ,these exercises are simple1 but will be found exceedingly helpful if persevered in1 in diminishing the hips3 ,first1 stand perfectly erect2 the knees should not be bent4 ,the heels should be held together4 ,the palms of the hands should rest firmly upon the hips4 ,second1 swing the right leg slowly and firmly sidewise1 raising the foot as high as you can4 ,this should not be suddenly or violently done4 ,rest the weight of the body firmly on the left foot while so doing4 ,kick thus slowly a half dozen times or more1 until the muscles begin to be weary4 ,then shift the weight to the right foot and kick in the same fashion with the left4 ,third1 stand with the weight on one foot and raise the other leg slowly1 until it is on a level with the trunk4 ,lower the foot and repeat this exercise many times until you begin to grow weary4 ,then change the weight to that foot and repeat the exercise with the other leg4 ,fourth1 stand as ,i at first described1 the body straight1 the chest and head high1 the heels together4 ,raise the hands sidewise above the head1 bringing the tips of the fingers together4 ,then1 in the posture that swimmers take before they dive1 bend slowly forward1 keeping the knees straight1 until the finger tips reach the ground4 ,repeat this until fatigue warns you to stop4 ,never exercise until weary4 ,but even a perfect figure avails little unless you have grace4 ,when ,i am asked how to be graceful1 ,i answer3 8,be careful of your movements when alone and unconscious of them when you are in public40 ,grace can be cultivated4 ,there is no excuse for a woman who is not deformed being awkward4 ,there are degrees in grace1 but every woman may possess it to some extent4 ,to the woman who wishes to enhance her natural grace1 or who1 having none1 desires to add it to her charms1 ,i advise first of all the study of great paintings and statuary that are models of line and poise4 ,line is important1 but ,i have seen women who were all straight lines1 to whom nature had given not one gracious curve1 who were nevertheless graceful4 ,the long1 flowing lines of grace may be assisted by careful dressing1 and this a dressmaker may do for us1 but poise1 which is a much bigger and better word than pose1 including pose and much more1 comes from within and may be self taught4 ,i wish that every woman who reads this chapter would pay a visit to the nearest art gallery and study1 if there be one1 a good copy of the wonderful ,venus de ,milo4 ,let her study it until something of the inward strength which gives it its wonderful balance and power and perfect symmetry is revealed to her4 ,one of the secrets of that marvelous statue is the calm soul it expresses4 ,again and again ,i have said that serenity is the chief secret of beauty1 and ,i point to the ,venus de ,milo in proof of my assertion4 ,the nervous1 distraught1 ill-centered woman reveals her soul state by nervous1 abrupt awkward movements4 ,compose yourself inwardly and see with what grace and strength you stand before your mirror4 ,permit some emotion to disturb you1 and note the ravaging1 unlovely effect4 ,grace is poise1 and poise means a calm soul center4 ,for a graceful carriage we must consider how to stand1 how to walk and how to sit4 ,the late ,heinrich ,conried1 being asked to describe a beautiful woman1 said3 8,that is simple4 ,she is harmonious40 ,what he meant was that she was harmonious within and harmonious without1 the inward harmony revealing itself in the outer4 ,there was no discord in her4 ,to stand in a drawing room as you would stand on the ledge of a mountain would be inharmonious4 ,to sit on a high-backed chair with straight lines1 as you would sit upon an ottoman1 or a tte--tte would be strikingly discordant4 ,to walk into a ballroom as you would set forth for a walk along the beach would be ludicrous4 ,there must be in every movement harmony with your surroundings1 and you must yourself be governed by the immediate circumstances4 ,lola ,montez1 the enchanting dancer and the dancing enchantress1 well knew the value of a graceful carriage and of the cheerful spirit of which it is an expression4 ,she said3 8,a crushed1 sad1 or moping spirit1 especially if allowed at a tender age1 when the body is forming1 is a fatal cause of a flabby and moping body4 ,a bent and stooping form is quite sure to come of a bent and stooping spirit4 ,if you would stand well1 sit well1 walk well1 lie well1 #8sway gracefully on the poised waist' as upon a pivot40 ,given a straight healthy spine1 straight1 strong bones and the serene spirit of which ,i have spoken1 and there remains for grace two necessities1 knowledge and training4 ,one must know how to hold the body correctly before she can so hold it4 ,the correct position1 one in which the balance of all parts of the body is perfectly preserved1 is almost1 but not quite1 erect4 ,it should incline very slightly forward1 above the hips4 ,the weight of the body should rest firmly upon the balls of the feet4 ,the heels should be close together4 ,the knees should also be close neighbors4 ,the arms in standing should hang naturally at the sides with the elbows close to the sides4 ,one position only is proper for the chin4 ,it should be well up4 ,notice any woman whose chin is lowered4 ,shadows fall about the hollows of the face1 or create an illusion of hollows there4 ,every woman looks five years older with her chin lowered4 ,also such a pose of the head will make wrinkles in the fairest and plumpest neck4 ,nature designed woman to hold her head as proudly as that of a mettlesome horse4 ,the chest should be held up and out4 ,observe how a well-trained soldier stands on parade4 ,that is an excellent model4 ,he appears to have no abdomen1 so well is it held in4 ,his shoulder blades are flat as a knife4 ,if the shoulder blades are not naturally flat1 shoulder braces should be worn to correct the projecting ones and to destroy the round-shouldered effect so destructive of the beauty of a figure4 ,these can be purchased at drug stores and department stores1 but can be made at home at slight cost4 ,stitch two long strips of coutil two and a half inches wide in many parallel rows to make it strong4 ,fasten these at the back just over the shoulders with another horizontal stitched band of the same width4 ,a simple exercise for sagging shoulders is to draw the arms behind you1 bend them at the elbows and thrust a cane between the elbows and back4 ,practice the proper posture in standing before the mirror4 ,study not only the front1 but the profile view of your figure4 ,if the chest sags1 thrust it forward4 ,if the abdomen protrudes1 determinedly shift your weight so that it recedes4 ,the prominent abdomen in half the cases ,i know is simply the result of bad habits of standing4 ,if the shoulders curve forward1 draw yourself erect until they are flat4 ,if you find your weight resting upon the heels1 your figure will look awkward and countrified4 ,if you rest upon the toes1 it will look mincing and affected4 ,nature has indicated that to keep the balance of the body the weight must fall upon the balls of the feet4 ,try all these postures and notice how much better your figure looks when you stand correctly4 ,it will be an object lesson you cannot forget4 ,five minutes a day for two weeks ought to teach the dullest of us to stand well4 ,after that the lesson of gracefully shifting the weight when you are tired may be practiced4 ,move one foot slightly forward1 dividing the weight equally between the two4 ,then rest the full weight of the body on one foot4 ,then1 by a quick1 slight shift1 change it to the other4 ,but return quickly to the position of an equal division of weight4 ,for when the body rests upon one foot the hip and shoulders of the other side will be raised4 ,a good walk is a thing of beauty4 ,a bad walk is a pain to the beholder4 ,a bird balancing lightly on the end of a twig is the best model ,i have ever seen for walking4 ,he seems weightless4 ,he vibrates with the joy of motion4 ,the best walkers in the world are ,spanish women4 ,they move with a slight undulation that is exquisite4 ,their limbs move as though they have no weight4 ,one of your clever ,american women describing the good walk said3 8,move as though you lived altogether in the upper story40 8,the upper story0 was that part of the body above the waist4 ,the remainder she classed as 8the lower story40 ,it was an admirable hint4 ,the upper half of the body should be evident in the walk4 ,the lower should be merely a means to the end of walking4 ,the walk should invite attention only to the fine poise of the head1 the perfect carriage of the chest1 the straightness of the back4 ,the limbs should be forgotten4 ,a walk which attracts attention to them is always an awkward walk4 ,the upper part of the body should be as free as though it turned itself upon a pivot4 ,the lower part should be regarded and utilized merely as a pedestal for holding the upper4 ,in walking as in standing the weight should rest upon the ball of the feet4 ,the toes should be turned slightly outward4 ,the knee joints should move easily and the movement of the whole of the lower part of the body should be a stately and apparently unconscious motion4 ,some women there are who stand well and walk well1 who sit badly4 ,indeed1 they do not sit4 ,they lounge4 ,the same law of balance should hold in all4 ,that is1 the weight should be evenly distributed1 no portion of the body having to bear the lion's share of the burden4 ,as a rule1 the comfortable attitude is the correct one in sitting1 though this is not true of the lazy person who sits with chin lowered upon breast and abdomen thrust forward1 as a caricature of the human form4 ,sit with the feet resting upon the floor or upon a footstool4 ,never let them swing without support4 ,sit straight1 or rest against a straight-backed chair1 with the lower part of the body pushed close against the chairback4 ,this is a much better way to rest than the half-lying1 half-sitting posture that is so ungraceful4 ,in standing1 don't throw the hips far back4 ,they should be straight1 in easy line with the body4 ,in walking1 do not swing the arms4 ,in sitting1 keep the crown of the head up and back4 ,to test your carriage1 pass the hand across the back4 ,if the ends of the shoulder blades can be felt at a light touch of the fingers1 the carriage is incorrect4 ,the shoulders must be drawn farther back4 ,,chapter ,,xv ,,safe1 ,,easy ,,ways ,,of ,,reducing ,,weight ,in this chapter ,i shall try to answer that which ,i call 8,the ,great ,american ,question40 ,in other countries where ,i have lived and visited1 women ask1 8,what shall ,i do to remain young80 ,in ,america women have by their intelligence solved that problem4 ,here the torturing1 ever recurring question is1 8,what shall ,i do to be thin80 ,fat is the greatest foe to ,american beauty4 ,but it is a self-created foe4 ,american women1 learned in all other matters of personal hygiene1 ignore that which is chief1 the hygiene of the table4 ,i will not say that ,american women overeat4 ,they eat the wrong things4 ,in food they deal in extremes1 which are always detrimental1 whether to beauty or to morals4 ,they eat what is very sweet1 or very sour4 ,they eat what is very cold or very hot4 ,they eat foods that are too highly spiced1 or underdone4 ,extremes1 always extremes6 ,and when they have had too much of this extreme food1 and the tortured stomach revolts1 they go to another extreme1 and fast1 which is1 in my opinion1 a most pernicious extreme4 ,one fact that the stout woman should keep ever before her mind1 as a signal light before a ship battling its way to port1 is that fresh air is a destructive agent to fat4 ,oxygen burns carbon4 ,to make this clear1 let me ask you if you have noticed how a dying fire flames up when a draught of cold air is turned upon it8 ,that is precisely what happens when a woman who is too fat goes out for a walk4 ,carbon1 which is in the great folds of flesh that lie upon her abdomen and blanket her hips1 is also a component part of the coat4 ,oxygen acts upon this as a burning match applied to paper4 ,therefore1 if you are stout1 walk1 walk1 walk4 ,this will not be easy4 ,it will be hard indeed4 ,for the woman who is too fat is invariably ease and luxury loving and a long walk is to her at first a hardship4 ,but she should be in this as in all things else discreet4 ,her first walk should be a short one4 ,if she be one of those women who always take a street car or a carriage1 her first walk should be only eight or ten blocks long4 ,i am computing by short ,new ,york ,city blocks4 ,twenty of these are equal to one mile4 ,i have seen a woman unaccustomed to walking come puffily into a room1 drop into a chair exhausted and say3 8,i am tired to death4 ,i've walked eight blocks40 ,but this woman persisted1 or1 rather1 her friends persisted4 ,they insisted that after a few hours she take another walk4 ,to their pleasure she achieved this time ten blocks4 ,in a walk the evening of the same day she covered twelve1 and came in with a pink glow in her cheeks and a new light in her eyes4 ,by the end of the week she could walk one mile each morning without discomfort4 ,the second week she increased this to one and a half miles4 ,the third week it became two and when the second month of her exercise began she walked three miles every morning and came home with heightened color1 a diminished waist and no complaints4 ,after two months her morning walk of five miles1 regardless of weather1 had become a necessity of her health and spirits4 ,it was amazing how1 as her girth decreased1 her beauty increased4 ,the cheeks that had been heavy and flabby grew firm and rosy4 ,at first1 though there was a perceptible decrease in her bulk1 there was little difference in her weight4 ,her waist measure decreased one and a half inches and her hip measure two inches1 yet she was but five pounds lighter4 ,this apparent riddle is1 after all1 easily guessed4 ,fat is of spongelike texture and light weight4 ,much of it may disappear with little corresponding reduction in weight4 ,if a woman sees that her belts have become too large and that she needs a dressmaker or tailor to take in her gowns about the hips it does not matter whether she has lost five or twenty pounds4 ,she has accomplished that which she resolved to do4 ,she has grown beautifully less4 ,i have known women who never walked more than a few blocks at a time accomplish a ten-mile walk in a morning4 ,the wisdom of this ,i always questioned4 ,walking is of no permanent value unless it is regularly done4 ,better three miles every morning than ten miles twice a week4 ,besides an exceedingly long walk is a severe tax upon muscles unused to walking4 ,the muscles must be treated gently as little children4 ,they should be slowly accustomed to their task4 ,riding is an excellent reducing agent4 ,a morning gallop in the park or along country roads will soon diminish ponderous flesh4 ,golfing is excellent4 ,swimming is admirable4 ,driving1 because the body is entirely passive1 is of little use4 ,indoor exercise in a gymnasium is better1 much better1 than nothing1 but outdoor exercise distances it by one hundred per cent4 ,although the windows of the room be opened wide the room does not provide half the oxygen yielded by the great out-of-doors4 ,after the burning aid of fresh air1 in importance comes diet4 ,the stout woman should try reducing the quantity of her food one-third1 then one-half4 ,she should eliminate from it these dishes3 ,pork1 veal1 beans1 peas1 fat beef or mutton1 cauliflower1 potatoes1 milk containing cream1 puddings1 pies1 candy1 sugar1 white bread1 eels1 salmon1 chocolate1 beets1 butter1 red wine1 ice cream4 ,she should substitute for them3 ,lean meats1 eggs1 green vegetables 7as spinach1 string beans1 asparagus1 beet tops71 oranges1 whole wheat1 graham or gluten bread1 white bread1 toasted thin and crisp1 saccharine instead of sugar1 fresh or dried fruits4 ,a famous woman rid herself of ten superfluous pounds in a month by a modification of the milk diet4 ,she drank two quarts of skimmed milk a day1 and ate but one meal4 ,she dined at seven with her family4 ,her breakfast and luncheon1 consisted of two glasses of skimmed milk4 ,she sipped the milk1 giving herself five minutes for each glass1 for she knew milk was rather a food than a beverage1 and that since it passed speedily into the consistency of cheese in the stomach it must be slowly swallowed4 ,the remainder of the two quarts of her daily stint she sipped whenever hunger gnawed and she was tempted to return to her old diet of what in ,america you call 8three squares0 a day4 ,several of my friends have reduced their weight by the expedient of taking a long walk1 as long as their strength would permit1 before breakfast1 but the nearly uncontrollable appetite for the deferred meal created by this exercise is a discouraging element4 ,others have been successful in reducing flesh by foregoing their breakfast altogether4 ,many dieticians agree that breakfast is 8the fattening meal40 ,and there is reason to believe the stomach needs breakfast less than any other meal1 since there has been no special outlay of strength during the night of rest as during the day of activity4 ,the fashionable woman used to think that she should rest immediately after a meal4 ,now she walks slowly1 or at least stands for twenty minutes after each meal1 being convinced that if she sits or lies down after a meal her abdomen will become distended1 one of the most unsightly forms of superfluous flesh4 ,massage and baths are an undoubted aid in the reduction of flesh4 ,massage should not be made to take the place of exercise4 ,it should supplement it4 ,it is estimated that thorough massage given by a skillful operator is equivalent to a seven-mile walk4 ,but if this be true so far as the physical effort is concerned1 there is no substitute for the carbon destroying bath of oxygen4 ,no room can be so well ventilated as to approach the purity of the outer air4 ,the woman who is taking massage to reduce her flesh should not rest afterward4 ,the massage should be followed by a dip into a bathtub of tepid water1 a scrub and a salt rub1 a cool spray and dressing1 calisthenics or a walk4 ,do not allow your masseuse to use oil or cold cream4 ,talcum powder is best for the woman who wants to be thin4 ,reduction medicines ,i do not advise4 ,certainly ,i should never use one of them internally without consulting a physician1 and having the compound analyzed4 ,there are drastic remedies that reduce the flesh and demoralize the digestive apparatus4 ,far better in this instance the ill than the remedy and its consequent evils4 ,some preparations of an absorbent nature ,i have known to be used with good results4 ,most of these contain iodine4 ,there are several soaps used for the purpose of massage1 all containing iodine4 ,after receiving my physician's endorsement and having the soap analyzed by a scrupulous chemist there would seem to be no danger attending their use4 ,this formula is safe1 and if persistently used1 should be effective as an absorbent remedy4 ,i have known corpulent beauties who took it internally1 but ,i should never be so daring3 ,tincture of iodine1 #cj minims2 iodide of potassium1 #fj grains2 hyposulphite soda1 #bj grains2 distilled water1 #g ounces2 aniseed water1 #agj minims4 ,i have before recommended ,turkish baths for flesh reduction4 ,that advice ,i must qualify by explaining how they should be taken1 for there are thin women who take ,turkish baths to fatten them1 and with success4 ,as a reducing agent the ,turkish bath should be taken in a more radical way than for mere cleansing and tonic action4 ,the bather should remain in the room as long as possible1 that is until she is warned by faintness or a fluttering of the heart that she has been in the abnormal temperature long enough4 ,these warnings she must instantly heed4 ,the length of time is governed by her temperament and health4 ,it may be twenty minutes1 but it should be from half to three-quarters of an hour4 ,after the scrub and massage that follow she should go instantly to a couch and be wrapped in many blankets1 so that the flow of perspiration will continue4 ,thus while she is resting she should perspire for another half hour4 ,this makes a drainage at the pores for between one and two hours and reduces materially the weight4 ,but ,i do not advise ,turkish baths oftener than twice a week at most4 ,taken oftener ,i believe them to be weakening4 ,a cool or cold plunge every morning is prescribed by some beauty experts4 ,personally ,i am opposed to them4 ,they are not cleansing4 ,the delicate person cannot withstand them4 ,they are a tonic to the robust constitution1 that does not require them4 ,a gentle laxative is a great aid in reducing4 ,various salts1 with the consent of your physician and taken in a manner he advises1 would be helpful in diminishing flesh4 ,but ,i insist that whatever is done in this direction must have a physician's approval4 ,i will not unqualifiedly recommend it4 ,the tendency of salts is to render a person who takes them anmic4 ,should the person who wishes to reduce be already anmic the effect of the salts1 in thinning the blood1 might be injurious4 ,to summarize my advice upon the matter of reducing flesh1 let me say that the simplest methods are the best4 ,make oxygen your first aid4 ,spend at least two hours a day out of doors4 ,the more active the outdoor exercise the better1 stopping this side the point of exhaustion4 ,reduce the amount of food one-half1 and change the dietary from the fat producing foods to bone and muscle makers4 ,and1 in conclusion1 a warning4 ,as the muscles1 divested of blanketing flesh1 seem to shrink1 be sure that the skin follows them1 instead of hanging baggily about them1 in ugly wrinkles or creases4 ,to contract the skin that surrounds the diminished muscles bathe it frequently in cold water4 ,bathe with a sponge dipped in cold water1 or wrap the parts about with cold compresses4 ,if this method1 which is called 8freezing the muscles10 is not successful this astringent cream applied every morning and evening should be3 ,glycerine1 #e ounces2 mutton tallow1 #a pound2 tincture of benzoin1 #b drams2 spirits of camphor1 #a dram2 powdered alum1 dram2 orange flower water1 #b ounces2 ,russian isinglass1 #a dram4 ,one day not long ago a charming young woman came to see me4 ,her face indicated deep distress4 8,you are looking charming10 ,i assured her4 8,no1 no1 madam10 she returned4 8,i am looking wretched1 dreadful4 ,i am positively ashamed of myself40 8,but why80 ,i asked4 8,don't you see8 ,i am over weight4 ,i am twenty-seven4 ,my height is five feet three inches4 ,i weigh one hundred and sixty-five pounds40 8,your curves are a bit ample10 ,i admitted4 8,you know very well1 dear madam1 that ,i am like a pillow of feathers4 ,i lived at a summer hotel where they had really good food1 and behold me4 ,i can hardly believe that ,i gained thirty pounds in six weeks4 ,what shall ,i do80 8,first understand that you cannot lose the flesh much faster than you gained it4 ,you will need at least a month to lose the thirty pounds40 8,but ,i must lose them1 madam4 ,think of appearing in the opera like this8 ,think of dancing1 not only with a man1 but with thirty extra pounds4 ,what shall ,i do80 ,i repeated the litany of reduction3 8,exercise1 diet1 abstinence1 perspiration40 8,but how80 8,exercise until you are tired1 and then don't rest but exercise some more4 ,rest from one kind of exercise by trying another40 8,what exercise80 persisted my too plump friend4 8,first a series of exercises that force you to breathe deeply4 ,begin as soon as you rise in the morning1 and1 by the way1 rise at least an hour earlier than usual4 ,you fatten as much by too much sleep as from too much food4 ,in your night robe1 or if you prefer it1 in a bathing or gymnasium suit1 go to the window1 fling it wide open1 and standing with the arms raised above your head1 palms outward1 elbows straight1 inhale deeply and slowly1 counting eight4 ,hold the air while you count eight4 ,this gives the air a chance to sweep through the air cells of the lungs1 bathing them with its freshness4 ,then expel the air slowly while you count eight4 ,repeat this until a slight dizziness warns you that you have done enough4 8,then begin the bending exercises4 ,with fingers extended bend slowly until the finger tips reach the floor4 ,then rise slowly1 and raise the arms above the head4 ,do not raise the shoulders1 but slowly bring the tips of the fingers together above the head4 ,then gradually bend forward until the tips of the fingers reach the floor4 ,then back and up again4 8,this exercise is difficult1 especially for the stout4 ,but persist in it and it will reduce the overfatness of the abdomen4 8,you will be tired by this time1 but you must not encourage the feeling of drowsiness and torpor and disinclination for further effort that creeps over you4 ,banish all thoughts of going back to bed4 ,instead begin your rolling4 8,there is no mystery about rolling4 ,it is simply what the name indicates4 ,down upon the floor you go and roll over and over swiftly1 not slowly as a porpoise rolls4 ,the porpoise1 you will observe1 is not a slender animal4 ,roll over as a puppy1 tingling with the joy of life1 rolls in the dust when at play4 ,roll quickly4 ,make at least eighty revolutions before stopping4 ,now you are very tired4 ,the unaccustomed perspiration appears upon your face and body in drops4 ,that is good4 ,to reduce weight you must perspire4 ,most fat people have lost the art of perspiring4 8,but you have not finished your exercise4 ,don't think of breakfast4 ,don't think of a nap after your strenuous half hour4 ,get a skipping rope and go out on the roof1 on the fire escape1 or into a vacant room and jump the rope twenty-five times4 ,this the first morning4 ,the second morning make it fifty and continue increasing the number until a flutter at your heart hints that you have taken enough of this exercise for the present4 8,then try some new dance steps4 ,if you have done these thoroughly you will have spent an hour and a quarter at reduction4 ,go then to your bathroom and take a shower1 first warm1 then cool1 then gradually becoming cold4 ,with a big ,turkish towel rub yourself thoroughly dry4 ,come back in a week and tell me how much you weigh40 8,one hundred sixty-one10 she said4 8,but that is not enough40 8,it is not10 ,i answered4 8,we must do better4 ,this week1 after you have finished your exercises indoors1 you must dress at once and go for a long walk or ride40 8,but breakfast80 she asked faintly4 8,it would be better if you ate no breakfast10 ,i answered sternly4 8,or1 if you take any1 let it be a glassful or1 if your stomach is clamorous1 two glassfuls of buttermilk4 ,drink them slowly1 taking at least five minutes for each glass4 8,when you return from the walk or ride take another shower40 8,and rest80 8,there is no rest for the person who is reducing4 ,it is an occupation in itself4 ,after your luncheon1 which should be of lean meat or fish1 toast and coffee without cream or sugar and stewed or fresh fruit1 go out again4 ,go shopping or calling4 ,if calling1 decline tea and sweetmeats that may be offered you4 ,if shopping or calling don't drive to your destination4 ,walk4 ,for dinner you should have the same as at luncheon1 with the addition1 if you wish1 of a small glass of white wine4 ,white wine1 being sour1 is one of the agents for reducing flesh that all ,french dietitians prescribe4 ,after dinner more exercise in the open4 ,driving is better than staying indoors1 but walking is better4 ,i have before pointed out that in walking you take in four times as much fresh air in a given time as you do in driving4 ,and fresh air in the body is like a draught of air in a furnace1 fanning a blaze that consumes all refuse and slag4 ,go back now10 ,i said1 8and call again next week40 ,next week her step was lighter4 ,her eyes were brighter4 ,she said3 8,you are a hard taskmistress1 but ,i have done as you advised4 ,my weight is now #aed pounds40 8,you have lost a pound a day10 ,i said4 8,that is enough4 ,some authorities would say it is too much4 ,now we will vary the treatment a little4 ,i have told you about exercise and diet4 ,now as to abstinence40 8,it is dreadfully hard to do without sweets10 she sighed4 8,did you do without them80 8,not wholly10 she admitted4 8,if the hunger for sweets seizes you let fruit tablets dissolve in your mouth and swallow them slowly4 ,this will satisfy for a time the craving for sweets that is as tormenting in its way as the craving for drink1 and as hard to cure4 ,the fruit tablets are a make-believe candy1 and yet are so largely fruit and water that the sugar in them is hardly a calculable quantity40 8,but ,i am hungry nearly all the time2 hungry for other than sweets4 ,hungry for substantials40 8,if you insist upon eating as much as you wish ,i can do nothing for you4 ,you must leave the table with your appetite unappeased4 8,drink a great deal of water4 ,that refreshes the body1 but helps to destroy the appetite for food4 ,normally1 you should drink ten glasses a day4 ,increase the amount to twelve or fourteen4 ,with your buttermilk for breakfast1 your lean meat1 dry toast and coffee at luncheon and the same with white wine at night1 your stomach will be satisfied4 8,but do your water drinking discreetly4 ,begin in the morning as soon as you rise by sipping two glassfuls4 ,finish the day by the same quantity4 ,the other should be drunk between meals or1 at most1 one glass should be drunk a day4 8,keep before your mind the word #8,abstain4' ,remember that you must abstain from sweets1 from pastries1 from milk1 from cauliflower1 potatoes1 lima beans1 corn1 all the vegetables and cereals that fatten40 ,at the end of the third week she came back perceptibly lessened4 8,eight pounds less this week10 she said triumphantly4 8,my weight is now one hundred and forty-six4 ,only eleven pounds of the thirty remain40 8,do you perspire well80 8,better than ,i did4 ,but not freely40 8,then the pores must be educated4 ,some pores must go to school to learn their function4 ,when all else fails a course of ,turkish or ,russian baths will do this4 ,take them at home in a cabinet1 or at public baths1 as you prefer4 ,i prefer the ,russian baths because they are moist and they do not force the lungs to breathe hot air4 ,the cabinet baths permit an opening for the head so that while the body is perspiring the lungs may be inhaling cool1 pure air4 8,take one of these baths every morning4 ,keeping the feet in hot water facilitates the perspiration4 ,at the end of a week you will find that the pores will have learned their office and perspiring will have become easy4 ,while you are taking the course of baths you may relax somewhat from the exercise4 ,or you may take instead deep or kneading massage1 the sort in which your masseuse's knuckles seem to reach the bones40 ,at the end of the week my patient wrote me3 8,i cannot call to-day1 but rejoice with me4 ,i have lost eight pounds this week4 ,only three more to spare4 ,i am keeping tailors and dressmakers busy taking in my frocks40 ,three days later she appeared1 looking radiant4 ,it was as though a half dozen blankets that hid her beauty had been removed4 ,her charms had been hidden by too much flesh1 as the flame of a lamp is obscured by a soiled chimney4 8,one thing ,i forget10 ,i said1 anxiously scrutinizing her face for sagging skin4 8,but you do not need the warning40 8,no1 ,i had a facial massage every day to keep the skin of my face firm40 8,and there is no sign of a pendulous chin10 ,i said1 admiringly4 8,i kept the chin firm by freezing the muscles into hardness with cold water compresses and applications of ice40 ,here is how another young friend of mine lost nineteen pounds in five weeks without injury to her health4 ,before she fairly realized that she was putting on flesh she found herself with all the symptoms of overweight4 ,her face was full and puffy4 ,her cheek muscles sagged1 giving her face the jowl-like look that suggests the lower animals1 transforming beauty's face into a beastlike semblance1 and that beast not the handsomest1 nor most poetic1 of the order4 ,as she surveyed her figure in the mirror1 particularly in the back1 it looked broad and coarse4 ,moreover1 she was conscious of her weight4 ,her movements had become clumsy4 ,when we are at normal weight1 that is1 when we are only so heavy as nature intended1 and nature abhors overfleshed women1 we are not oppressed by our bodies4 ,we feel so light and our minds are so capable of dominating our bodies that we scarcely realize that we have any weight4 ,that birdlike lightness of body is a sure sign that we are at our best4 ,my friend1 having a long social season before her1 when she wished to look her best1 resolved to train down4 ,but how8 ,she adopted none of the cure-alls prescribed by stout women we meet at ,turkish baths4 ,she did what is the wisest course when we are able to adopt it1 went straight to her physician and asked his advice4 ,this was wise because her physician knew her constitution as she knew her alphabet4 ,he knew which way lay peril4 ,she must not take the beef and hot water cure1 because she was predisposed to rheumatism1 and authorities claimed1 and this physician believed1 that in beef there is at least seventeen per cent4 of uric acid4 ,the body is able to eliminate only a limited amount of the acid and the introduction into it of such excess over that amount would involve some remaining in the system4 ,this should be avoided in cases of what the physicians call 8uric acid diathesis40 ,also his patient was nervous1 so he must not permit her that starvation system of diet which reduced her nervous force4 ,not being an especially vigorous woman1 he was unwilling to run any risk of impairing her vitality4 ,under his guidance1 then1 she began this regimen3 ,for breakfast1 two slices of thin1 dry toast4 ,if her breakfast satisfied her cravings he insisted that the bread be dry4 ,if not1 she spread it very thinly with butter4 ,with this she ate one medium-boiled or poached egg and drank one cup of coffee4 ,being of those who say1 and prove1 if you watch them at the first meal of the day1 8,my breakfast is my best meal10 her physician knew that this light breakfast would at first be a hardship4 ,he therefore urged her to eat very slowly1 masticating her food until it turned into a thin liquid in her mouth4 8,if you do this10 he said1 8one-half the food you formerly ate will just as fully satisfy your hunger40 8,and that1 which ,i didn't at all believe at first ,i found to be quite true10 she said4 ,the only luncheon permitted her was a slight one of fruit4 8,try to get on with one apple or orange10 he said4 8,if you are suffering from hunger eat two4 ,but masticate1 masticate1 masticate40 ,at night she was allowed to eat anything she chose1 except the three fattening 8ps0--potatoes1 pudding or pie4 ,but again she was charged to take twice as much time as usual for the meal4 ,and at neither of her meals should she drink water4 ,at breakfast and dinner one cup of black coffee was permitted4 ,for all the days that followed1 for five weeks1 she had the same breakfast and luncheon1 but every other night she had no dinner save a large bowl of bread and milk4 ,the milk contained no cream1 but was skimmed4 ,meanwhile she1 who had always disliked exercise1 discarded her carriage and took two walks a day1 one in the morning and one in the afternoon4 ,her physician named no ground to be covered in these walks4 8,walk as long as you enjoy it1 but not until you are tired10 he warned her4 ,her first unaccustomed walks were only three or four short city squares1 but after two weeks1 when nature had become accustomed to the new regimen1 she was able to walk four miles a day1 two before and two after noon4 ,if1 as sometimes happened1 she returned from her walk faint1 she was allowed to drink a cup of hot but very weak tea1 and if nature seemed to demand more sustenance1 she drank two cups4 ,but from these cream and sugar were sternly prohibited4 ,the results ,i have told you4 ,and my friend never looked so lovely and she assures me she has never felt so well4 ,there was no expensive journey nor stay at the baths2 no daily massage4 ,the loss of those nineteen pounds cost her only self-denial1 the one fee for her physician and the tailor's charges for taking in all her gowns four inches about the hips and two at the waist4 ,while ways to grow thin do not especially interest me1 ,i cannot help hearing continually of them4 ,wherever ,i go the conversation of the women ,i meet tends to fat4 ,all are interested because those who are fat wish to be thin1 and those who are thin fear they may become fat4 ,all womankind1 it would seem1 has organized into an army of fat fighters4 ,to the baths go women who weigh two hundred pounds1 and when they return from ,carlsbad1 from ,marienbad and elsewhere ,i pass them in the ,bois without saluting them1 because in those six weeks they have lost fifty pounds and are thin beyond recognition4 ,it is marvelous4 ,one of the great physicians who crossed the ,atlantic recently to treat a ,new ,york society leader for obesity1 received #b1jjj for his services for two weeks4 ,they will do much and pay greatly to reduce their flesh1 these rich1 but what of us who are not wealthy8 ,we can choose and follow some of their methods once we have learned them4 ,this is one method which a friend of mine uses to keep her weight thirty-five pounds below what it formerly was4 ,it is simple1 being baths three times a week in hot salt water4 ,into an ordinary bath tub she empties two pounds of table salt4 ,she pours water into the tub until it is two-thirds full1 and remains in the tub for twenty minutes4 ,after this she rubs her body briskly down with alcohol and retires4 ,like most methods of quick reduction this may be criticised as temporarily weakening4 ,therefore while ,i am acquainting you with this treatment for obesity ,i do not recommend it to one who must keep her strength at its fullest4 ,a vacation or a time when your tasks1 whether they be business or professional or social1 are light1 would be the best time for this measure for reduction of weight4 ,from the harem of ,constantinople1 through an escaped inmate1 comes the news that when a member of it becomes so fat that she is a formless sea of flesh1 the overlord orders that she have bone-deep massage daily with this lotion3 ,iodide of potassium1 #b ounces2 camphor water1 #b ounces2 alcohol1 #b ounces4 ,if while this deep massage and the hardship for a woman of the harem of eating no more of the delicious ,turkish paste are continuing her face grows haggard and lines appear in it1 it is bathed six times a day with3 ,witch hazel1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce4 ,specialists are always prepared to hear the complaint3 8,i don't eat much40 ,all their patients tell them this and all of them believe it to be true1 but in nearly every case it isn't4 ,a few admit that they are enormous feeders1 but say 8,it is impossible for me to control my appetite40 ,a beauty specialist ,i know laughs at this4 8,when you are hungry between the two meals ,i will permit you to drink water10 he orders4 8,hot water or cold as you like1 but drink it very slowly1 and never take a glass of water unless there is the juice of a lemon in it4 ,if you keep the stomach filled with water you will be less hungry4 ,if you feel a #8gnawing' drink more water40 ,this is the dietary permitted by an autocrat at one of the great ,european baths3 ,no liquor2 all fish1 except trout and salmon2 chicken2 beef 7in very small and rare portions1 preferably raw72 eggs2 nuts2 all acid fruits such as cranberries1 cherries1 peaches and blackberries2 rhubarb2 beans2 carrots2 cabbage2 cauliflower2 asparagus2 squash2 tomatoes2 onions2 lettuce2 celery2 hominy2 brown or rye bread2 ,dutch cheese4 ,these and nothing more composed the food4 ,no servant could be bribed for a potato1 and all turned round eyes of innocent wonder upon you if you asked for a sweet cake4 ,because the change to this diet was so radical the doctor did not insist upon violent exercise1 but he kept his reducing patients out of doors and encouraged them1 as did the ,paris physician1 to keep moving4 ,while you are reducing depend upon a tape measure rather than the scales to determine your loss of weight4 ,measure your hips and waist and upper arm4 ,fat is bulk making1 but it takes a large amount of it to weigh a pound4 ,a woman1 my neighbor at the baths ,i visited1 had lost three inches about the hips and two about the waist1 yet had lost only three-quarters of a pound in weight4 ,if ,i were ever encumbered by too much flesh ,i should first give the rice treatment a thorough trial4 ,it is simple and cheap and has the merit of not reducing too rapidly1 so that the facial muscles have time to adjust themselves to the new conditions and the skin of the face to also adjust itself1 preventing the haggardness and aged look that follow too rapid reduction4 ,the rice cure can be explained in a paragraph1 a short one1 even in a line4 ,it consists in an exclusive diet of rice and milk1 or rice with a little butter and salt to make it palatable4 ,it is a leisurely1 and for that reason healthful1 treatment4 ,a young woman of my acquaintance rid herself of two pounds a week by this diet until she had diminished her weight by the desired ten pounds4 ,i have no doubt1 had she continued1 she could have reduced indefinitely by that scale4 ,she ate three large bowls of rice a day4 ,each bowl constituted one of her three daily meals4 ,the rice was covered with skim milk4 ,had she chosen1 she could have eaten it with a little butter and salt4 ,a fad in ,ostend and at some of the ,german cures is to wrap the limbs and other fatty portions in white muslin or linen cloths that have been boiled in vinegar4 ,they are wrapped around the fleshy portions of the body as hot as the cloths can be endured4 ,when they cool they are replaced by others or they are dipped once more into the vinegar4 ,this treatment is continued for at least twenty minutes and some of the faddists employ it three times a day4 ,it has a certain value1 for there is no question about the absorptive power of the skin4 ,but its foes are sure that it makes the skin yellow4 ,in ,germany is being attempted a method that would make for health and healthy thinness in ,america4 ,german physicians advise the establishment in each town of fruit depots4 ,if these depots or rooms were generally established and a man or woman could drop in at one of them for luncheon as easily as he or she now calls at a restaurant where fattening potatoes1 puddings1 pastry and liquors are served there would be a benefit to the general health4 ,summer is the best season for reduction1 for three reasons4 ,first1 one of the greatest agents for destroying excess flesh is pure air1 and one may get all she wishes of it at this season4 ,if circumstances permit you to leave the cities1 the country air will aid in diminishing your girth4 ,a second reason why summer is the best season for reduction of weight is that we need and crave less food in this season1 and1 besides1 the food is of a lighter nature and contains more acid than in winter4 ,one fashionable ,parisienne betook herself to her chteau last month for her annual rebuilding and for the first three weeks lived exclusively on grapes and slept in an open air chamber on the roof of her country home4 ,she grew clear of skin and lissome as a girl4 ,a third reason for utilizing summer in your reduction treatment is that it is the season which favors perspiration4 ,and fat flows from our body on the streams of perspiration4 ,the latest word in the matter of obesity cures is that fat being composed chiefly of water must be squeezed as a sponge is to rid it of the liquid with which it is saturated4 ,whenever there is need a supply soon follows4 ,a school of masseuses have adopted this theory of fat and have gone to work heroically to prove their theory4 ,one of these1 who has gone to your country from ,sweden1 gives the new massage for three hours at one treatment4 ,she beats and pounds and squeezes the flesh until it is soft as putty4 ,the results are amazing4 ,i know an actress who in order to play a vampire woman must needs reduce thirty pounds4 ,this she did last summer1 becoming slender and straight as a young pine tree1 and with no lessening of her vitality or beauty4 ,in ,london they are 8jumping the fat down40 ,once a day1 or oftener1 the overweight clan jump up and down fifty times4 ,in ,paris the so-called electric blanket has many advocates and friends4 ,the person who desires to reduce her flesh wraps this blanket about her1 attaches to its fastenings the electrical power from the lights in her room1 and presently she is dripping with perspiration4 ,completely relaxed as in a ,turkish bath1 she lies in her own room1 on her own bed1 and loses undesired ounces and pounds4 ,after twenty minutes or more she springs from her blanket1 hurries to her bathroom and turns on the cold spray or shower1 or takes a plunge in a tub of cold water4 ,this1 done twice a day1 has been the secret of the vanishing flesh of many beauties at ,ostend1 who had the gratification of remaining in fashionable centers and enjoying life1 instead of immuring themselves at stupid baths4 ,these are effective new methods for general reduction4 ,often1 however1 there is need only of reducing certain portions of the body that are too redundant4 ,many women are annoyed1 especially when they wear evening dress1 by an unbecoming roll of fat lying between the shoulders4 ,this has been removed by the simple means of patting it briskly with first one hand1 then another1 afterwards by stroking it1 first with one hand1 then the other1 the strokes being firm and downward ones4 ,it is better1 still1 to dip the palms in cold water before beginning this manipulation4 8,ironing0 the flesh roll with a lump of ice is another method successful in several instances of which ,i have personal knowledge4 ,if the chin has begun to multiply the ice ironing is useful1 especially if the ironing be followed at night by tying up the chin by a muslin or rubber bandage that is fastened about the head4 ,sometimes the excess of fat is in the face1 giving the countenance a gross look1 robbing it of much of its apparent intelligence1 and muffling fine features in a blanket of superfluous flesh4 ,such a face has rid itself of this incubus1 and emerged1 youthful1 rosy and well proportioned1 because1 as its owner whispered to me1 she never retires without first passing a small lump of ice over her face1 always with upward strokes4 ,if the touch of the ice is unpleasant1 or if there is in your composition a tendency to neuralgia1 wrap the ice in a thin layer of absorbent cotton1 or in a piece of gauze or cheesecloth4 ,individual treatment for overweight can be treated according to individual needs4 ,study your needs and adapt your knowledge to them4 ,keep in mind these four principles of flesh reduction4 ,all methods depend upon increased perspiration1 lessened quantity or different quality of food1 more vigorous exercise or that which reacts upon certain portions of the body1 or greater freedom from clogging materials which are wastes of the body4 ,those bath powders which are advertised as reducing agents usually contain one of the salts which induce the latter results4 ,,chapter ,,xvi ,,how ,,to ,,gain ,,flesh ,every woman1 while not desiring to be fat1 wants to possess a figure that is pleasantly rounded4 ,curves1 for women at least1 are the lines of beauty4 ,a man who is all straight lines may be handsome1 but no woman who is all angles may be beautiful4 ,the young women1 and the older women1 too1 who ask me1 8,what shall ,i do to become pleasingly plump80 are wise4 ,for womanly lines1 like a womanly voice1 are wholly desirable4 ,how shall the thin woman become plump8 ,it is a harder problem than that which ,i tried to solve last week4 ,for a woman who is fat may become comparatively thin by self-denial1 but the thin woman who would become plump must overcome many things1 heredity1 temperament1 some of the most salient traits of her character4 ,the thin woman must make herself over inside1 so to speak1 before she can make herself over outside4 ,to be pleasingly plump means that every angle is covered to an attractive roundness without any of the grossness of the figure that is too fat4 ,as an example of such a figure1 let me call your attention to ,mary ,garden4 ,no one would dare say she is fat4 ,she is not4 ,she never will be1 for she has the nervous temperament4 ,but in all her figure there is no angle4 ,yet its lines are long1 the curves graceful1 and the ensemble is most individual4 ,for the thin woman who would become plump there must be a radical change in her manner of living4 ,first she must learn a lesson from her fat sister4 ,it is not to worry4 ,almost always the fat woman is care free4 ,she is amiable4 ,she never worries and never nags4 ,diane de ,poiters1 the great ,french beauty1 had to struggle against the encroachment of a sea of fat4 ,the reason may be found in her answer to the question3 8,why are you so beautiful80 ,her reply was3 8,i am beautiful because ,i never worry40 ,the thin woman must stop worrying4 ,the thin woman is a spendthrift of vitality4 ,she is never still when there is a chance for activity4 ,it was of such a woman that the sardonic bachelor says3 8,she cuts up quilt pieces just for the fun of sewing them together again40 ,by which the bachelor meant to convey that she did needless work4 ,the thin woman must learn to rest4 ,the woman who is too slender to please herself or others must look to her diet4 ,those foods which her fat sister must eschew she must habitually eat4 ,she1 too1 must have her daily baths and her massage1 but they must be radically different from those taken by the woman who would diminish her flesh4 ,since her greatest hope of increased flesh lies in food ,i will first discuss that4 ,here is a list of those edibles which contain the starch or sugar1 or both1 that are needful for the taking on of flesh3 ,thick soups1 as bisque1 cream of celery1 cream of corn1 puree of peas and puree of beans2 fat beef1 fat mutton1 hot corn bread1 hot biscuits1 wheat1 corn and buckwheat cakes1 plenty of butter1 honey2 salad dressings in which there is more oil than vinegar2 chocolate1 pastries1 puddings1 bonbons1 bananas1 peaches1 prunes1 beans1 peas1 cauliflower1 asparagus1 potatoes1 rice1 gelatines4 ,she should drink cocoa or chocolate made with milk2 red wines if wines be drunk at all2 tea or coffee1 if drunk at all1 must be taken with cream and sugar4 ,she should drink more hot water than cold4 ,cold baths ,i do not recommend for any woman4 ,her organism is too delicate1 ,i think1 to successfully resist the shock of a cold plunge or shower1 but if any woman can withstand it it is the stout woman4 ,it has been claimed to be a considerable aid in reduction of flesh4 ,by that token1 if by no other1 the thin woman should avoid them4 ,her baths must be at least tepid4 ,i should advise them as warm as she can comfortably take them4 ,for while hot baths are enervating a moderately warm bath is soothing to tired nerves1 and so tends to those easeful habits which the thin woman needs to acquire4 ,the fat woman should rise immediately from her bath1 dress and go about her affairs4 ,but it is admissible1 even desirable1 for the thin woman to lie down for a rest of twenty minutes or longer after her bath4 ,the repose that follows a warm bath is one of the best aids to gaining flesh4 ,a ,turkish bath once a week may be taken1 but it should be taken prudently or it will lessen the flesh4 ,the thin woman should not remain in the hot room for more than ten minutes4 ,after the scrub which follows she should not lie in blankets1 as ,i have advised fat women to do1 to promote further perspiration4 ,instead she should go to a slightly cooler room and there take massage while her pores are gaping as open hungry mouths to receive it4 ,massage with olive oil is a fattener4 ,for each bath ,i recommend3 ,olive oil1 #a gill2 oil of bergamot1 teaspoonful4 ,after massage with the oil she should rest for a half hour before dressing4 ,to remove the odor and other unpleasant souvenirs of the oil rub she should powder her body freely with talcum before dressing4 ,for those to whom olive oil is distasteful there is this massage for the meager body1 which is much used in ,france and ,germany3 ,tannin1 gram2 lanolin1 #cj grams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #aj grams4 ,this1 which ,i have before recommended for building the adipose tissues of the neck1 is excellent for the body1 especially for the sunken regions about the collarbones1 for the thin layer of flesh over the ribs and for enlarging the hips3 ,cocoa butter1 #ajj grams2 alcohol1 #ie per cent41 #bj grams2 essence of rosemary1 #ab drops2 essence of bergamot1 #ab drops4 ,some skins are irritated by cocoa butter4 ,for these pure1 fresh lard could be substituted4 ,a recipe somewhat difficult to fill this side of ,paris1 but which has been invaluable to thin women who desired to be plump1 is this for massage cream3 ,salep of ,persia1 #ae grams2 powdered cocoa1 #fj grams2 glan doux d',asie1 #fj grams2 potato starch1 #de grams2 rice starch1 #fj grams2 thin gelatine solution1 #bej grams2 vanilla1 #e centigrams4 ,another simple1 pleasant and efficacious massage cream is made from3 ,olive oil1 #b ounces2 pure starch1 #a ounce2 lanolin1 #a ounce4 ,while ,i am aware that in ,america there is a prejudice against perfumes1 ,i cannot share in it4 ,since the days of the early ,romans well chosen perfumes have added elegance to a toilet4 ,it is only their abuse which is to be deplored4 ,a dainty woman need not be told that she must use the perfume sparingly1 that there should be a hint1 not a bald statement1 of them about her4 ,but there is no question that certain perfumes have also a tonic medicinal effect4 ,therefore for the thin woman whose nerves require soothing ,i recommend this toilet water1 used by ,english and ,french women when tired4 ,a half dozen drops in a bowl of water is deliciously soothing1 and leaves a pleasantly pervasive yet elusive perfume in the room3 ,jasmine water1 #c ounces2 vanilla water1 #a ounces2 acacia water1 #a ounces2 tuberose water1 ounce2 essence of ambergris1 #e drops2 tincture of benzoin1 dram4 ,the thin woman may use all of these things and yet note but little improvement4 ,for she has but little appetite as a rule1 and it is hard to fatten one who will not eat4 ,she should go to a physician1 tell him of her loss of appetite1 and ask for a prescription for a tonic which shall be1 as are most tonics1 an appetizer4 ,in lieu of that ,i borrow from a famous ,french physician1 who contributed much to the beauty of women1 this formula for an appetizer3 ,tincture of nux vomica1 #c grams2 tincture of rhubarb1 #fj grams2 tincture of star anise1 #c grams4 ,the woman who would be plump must add to her daily allowance of sleep4 ,if she sleeps eight hours and is still thin she should sleep nine hours1 or even ten4 ,and she should take a nap of a half hour to an hour after her midday meal4 ,she should exercise before instead of after meals4 ,briefly this is the regimen ,i should advise for thin women3 ,begin the day with a light breakfast in bed4 ,the breakfast may be a pot of cocoa or chocolate made with milk1 and sweetened with three lumps of sugar in each cup1 three slices buttered toast1 two medium boiled eggs4 ,rest for at least a half hour2 better an hour4 ,the time can be utilized in looking after your correspondence on one of the convenient writing pads1 in bed1 in reading the morning papers or in making your plans for the day4 ,then a tepid bath1 as ,i have directed1 followed by a slightly cooler shower to prevent your catching cold4 ,then a short walk or a drive4 ,luncheon of roast beef or mutton with gravy1 any green salad with mayonnaise dressing1 a cup of cocoa or glass of milk1 bananas or peaches or pastry4 ,between luncheon and dinner sip two or three glasses of milk1 remembering that milk is food rather than drink1 and giving five minutes to each glass4 ,follow the luncheon by a nap4 ,if you can't sleep at least rest4 ,for dinner eat any food that appeals to you that is of starchy or sugary or fatty nature4 ,avoid pickles1 oranges and all acids4 ,in this diet use saving common sense4 ,do not eat of rich foods so freely that your digestion will be impaired and your complexion become mottled4 ,drive away insomnia by drinking a glass of warmed milk1 a cup of cocoa or chocolate and eating a biscuit or two before retiring4 ,for the thin woman the rule against eating between meals applied to the fat one does not hold4 ,she may eat whenever hunger moves her1 for hers is a normal hunger1 indicating need of more nutriment4 ,i think it is not well to try to guide the natural growth of a young girl toward slenderness or plumpness4 ,nature should have its chance to indicate rather strongly which way it intends her to travel1 whether the road of thinness or fat4 ,when this has become apparent1 which is not until after sixteen or eighteen1 it is quite time to supplement nature4 ,but for those readers whose growth will not be interrupted by any radical changes in manner of living1 ,i would advise special attention to diet4 ,give a great deal of intelligent attention to nourishing the body4 ,keep in mind always the class of foods that form flesh4 ,of the cereals corn1 wheat and oats belong in this class4 ,the bread made from them has the same properties1 especially if they are used in their natural1 unadulterated state4 ,corn bread1 made from rough yellow meal and spread plentifully with butter1 is one of the best means of adding to the weight of the body4 ,potatoes1 if used in connection with eggs1 cheese and milk are important aids in that direction4 ,a ,french physician of unusual skill prepares to fatten his thin patients by requiring them first to fast for a short time4 ,sometimes he asks that this continue for three days1 though in my opinion forty-eight hours are quite enough4 ,this is to clear the body of all remnants of former manner of diet4 ,this is followed in his system by an exclusive milk diet of three more days1 he permitting the patient to drink as much as she likes1 but insisting on at least two quarts a day1 drunk very slowly1 ten minutes for the consumption of each glass1 almost literally eating1 rather than drinking it4 ,should the appetite rebel at the milk it may be varied by an occasional glass of orange juice or of lemon juice and water1 half and half4 ,the third step in this rejuvenating of the body before beginning to take the flesh forming foods1 is to eat nuts and fruit freely for a day or two or longer1 unless your appetite becomes too rebellious4 ,when you have begun with the flesh forming foods1 which ,i have given and which always include meats containing considerable fat1 be careful to chew them so thoroughly that all turn to liquid form in your mouth before swallowing4 ,i knew a woman once1 extremely thin1 who always ate a half dozen dates for dessert1 after a full meal4 ,to this she ascribed her rapid gain in welcome flesh4 ,exercise gently while building flesh1 but do not exercise quickly nor long at a time4 ,drink water freely1 and during meals one glass slowly drunk of cold water will not interfere with1 but rather aid1 in the digestion4 ,one of the first measures taken by those who wish to reduce their flesh is the opposite--to avoid drinking water at meals4 ,rest often4 ,sleep as much as you can1 taking a nap at midday if possible4 ,thin persons are nearly all worriers4 ,fat persons1 as a rule1 do not worry4 ,massaging the body with olive oil or vaseline aids in flesh formation4 ,drinking olive oil has the same result4 ,my prescription for the increase of flesh is twofold4 ,i counsel peace of mind and eating flesh-making foods4 ,generally speaking1 thin persons are of nervous temperament4 ,they have a positive genius for worry4 ,stop worrying and control your nerves4 ,this can be done through the practice of common sense and the exercise of your will4 ,train yourself along this line and it will amaze you to see what progress you have made in a few months4 ,it is possible not to let things and persons get on your nerves4 ,try it1 and keep on trying1 until the avoidance becomes a habit4 ,you will be less nervous if you take more rest4 ,sleep2 or if you can't sleep1 remain in bed an extra hour or two1 if possible1 every night4 ,and if your circumstances permit1 take a nap or a half-hour or more of relaxation at noon4 ,rest after meals4 ,aside from this nerve control and banishment of worry1 the greatest aid in flesh-making is in the greater quantity and different quality of food4 ,science has lately contributed a valuable item to the flesh-making foods4 ,the pine nut1 known as pignolia1 is one of the foods richest in fatty matter and in fat-making ingredients4 ,dr4 ,harvey ,w4 ,wiley1 the great food expert and advocate of the pure food law1 calls attention to the fact that these small1 sleek1 white nuts are composed of nearly #fj per cent4 of fat1 and that the sugar and starch1 also fat-making ingredients1 in them amount to #ag per cent4 of their composition4 ,they have heat-making properties equaling those of butter1 containing nearly four times as much nourishment as lean beef4 ,this discovery ,i repeat1 hoping that those persons to whom the idea of eating pork or fatty beef will be obnoxious will find an excellent substitute in this4 ,butter is a fattening agent4 ,spread bread thickly with this and eat foods cooked in it1 if you would grow flesh4 ,but because butter and cod liver oil are believed to interfere in some cases with digestion1 ,i would advise the free use of cream and milk instead4 ,as a rule the person who is too thin is anmic1 and those foods which rebuild the system will tend to round the body4 ,for such persons thick soups are desirable4 ,thick broths are strengthening and rebuilding4 ,vermicelli and macaroni1 added to thick soups1 tends to fatten4 ,in ,germany ,i came on an anmic young woman taking the cure at one of the baths4 8,what is that you are eating80 ,i inquired1 looking dubiously at a thick sandwich she ate with evident relish4 8,it is a chopped raw beef sandwich mixed with chocolate10 she said4 8,it is delicious4 ,may ,i order you one80 ,i declined1 for it happens that ,i dislike both raw meats and chocolates4 ,but ,i asked her about her regimen1 and found that part of her prescribed daily diet was sandwiches made of chopped or scraped meat prepared like the meat for a ,hamburger steak1 and mixed with beef or mutton broth1 butter or cod liver oil1 or1 as a special reward of merit she was granted the variety she most liked1 raw beef with chocolate4 ,raw oysters were also permitted1 but there was almost no lemon juice sprinkled upon them and vinegar was not allowed upon the table4 ,eggs she was allowed without limit1 and she was urged to take them beaten up in milk from which the cream had not been removed4 ,all cereals were admissable1 especially barley1 hominy1 tapioca and cracked wheat4 ,it is commonly supposed that thin people are thin for natural constitutional reasons1 and that it is extremely difficult1 if not altogether impossible1 to increase weight4 ,it is true that many people hold a certain weight year after year1 neither gaining nor losing more than a pound or two4 ,it is also true that many efforts to increase weight accomplish nothing4 ,but thin people need not be discouraged or settle themselves into the belief that it is impossible to gain weight4 ,an eminent physician tells me he has known people of middle age who have never varied more than a few pounds in weight for twenty years1 to add thirty-five pounds in one summer4 ,but this was accomplished1 not by any haphazard luck1 but by a most careful1 persistent and intelligent system of nourishment4 ,most people are accustomed to eat about the same average amount of food every day1 and they are guided in the amount they eat by their appetite4 ,the result is that1 with about the same daily habits of life and about the same daily appetite1 and with about the same consumption of nourishment day after day1 the bodily weight continues at a fixed amount4 ,if one is working extra hard1 the appetite may be a little stronger1 and the additional weight which might be gained is consumed by the extra labor which is being performed4 ,during a summer vacation it often happens that there is a gain of weight of five or eight or perhaps ten pounds1 but this is lost again as soon as the old habits of life are resumed after the vacation is over4 ,in formulating a system for increasing weight it is necessary to consider all of the many factors which may be made to contribute to the gain4 ,of course it must be understood at the very outstart that it is necessary to increase the amount of food we are eating if we are to increase weight4 ,it is not difficult to understand that a person's weight1 which is maintained at an even level year after year on a given quantity of food1 is not likely to increase unless the quantity of food or the quality of the food is increased4 ,but it does not necessarily follow that weight will increase simply by increasing the amount of food consumed4 ,many other factors enter into the problem4 ,it is probably almost universally true that we eat many things every day which are of little or no value4 ,our stomachs are often filled with more or less worthless food instead of things of great food value4 ,the most important single factor in gaining weight is the kind of nourishment that is taken4 ,bread1 meat1 cereals1 thin soups1 desserts1 crackers1 pastry and most vegetables are of very little value in increasing weight4 ,thick pea or bean soup1 baked beans1 ,boston brown bread1 rice1 ,welsh rarebit1 cheese1 raw eggs1 chocolate1 milk and cream are the great producers of weight4 ,it is1 of course1 generally well known that rapid and considerable gains in weight may be made by drinking large quantities of milk4 ,the flesh gained by abnormal consumption of milk is likely to disappear as rapidly as it was acquired2 and it is the opinion of many of the best physicians that too much milk puts a dangerous strain upon the kidneys4 ,flesh gained through a milk diet is of doubtful value1 but flesh gained by eating the highly nourishing foods ,i have recommended is of permanent value4 ,if a person is eating all his appetite demands1 it may be asked how any one is to eat any more4 ,one way of creating a larger appetite is to move your meals further apart4 ,if1 for any reason1 you are not able to get dinner until an hour or more after your usual dinner time1 you feel a considerably keener appetite and eat considerably more4 ,if you will apply this to all the hours for your meals you will find that you are eating a considerably larger bulk of food each day4 ,get up earlier in the morning and have a longer interval between your breakfast and midday meal1 and you will eat probably ten or fifteen per cent4 more at noon4 ,put off your evening meal an hour later1 if possible1 and you will find that you eat a considerably heavier evening meal than you had been eating4 ,the older you grow the slower are your digestive processes4 ,it takes fully an hour longer for a person of forty-five to digest the same meal eaten by a person of twenty4 ,everybody knows how pate de foie gras1 which is the fat and diseased liver of a goose1 is produced4 ,in ,strasburg1 where most of the pate de foie gras comes from1 the unfortunate goose is taken into a dark cellar and one foot is nailed to the floor4 ,the goose is then fed all he will eat1 and when he has finished his meal more food is poked down his throat with a stick4 ,the goose is1 in this way1 stuffed with food day after day1 and is not allowed to have fresh air or exercise4 ,the result is that his liver becomes degenerate1 fat and enlarged2 and this is the way pate de foie gras is produced4 ,the same sort of thing works in the same way with the human anatomy1 and if you are to stuff yourself with extra food and acquire permanent and valuable flesh1 you must thoroughly oxygenate your blood by fresh air and a reasonable amount of moderate exercise4 ,sleep with your window open at night and take a walk morning and evening4 ,do not run1 hurry or take violent exercise of any kind4 ,the chief factor in gaining weight is to come to your meals with more appetite than ever before and eat more than ever before4 ,eat things of the highest nutritive value4 ,if you are beginning your dinner with thick1 rich pea soup1 try to eat two or even three helpings of it4 ,whatever else you eat help yourself to double the usual amount and try to eat it all4 ,and when you are all through and think you cannot eat any more1 then eat a liberal helping of cheese1 and after that drink a glass or two of milk4 ,if such a meal taxes your digestion you may need help4 ,the chief digestive agent of the stomach is hydrochloric acid1 and you may add power to your digestive machinery by taking a little4 ,you may at the same time stimulate the other gastric secretions with a little nux vomica4 ,here is a prescription which will probably help you to take care of your extra quantity of food3 ,diluted hydrochloric acid1 #c drams2 tincture nux vomica1 #b drams2 peppermint water and distilled water1 each #b ounces4 ,take teaspoonful in wineglassful of water #c times a day after meals4 ,now1 this is not all4 ,you may still take a little more nourishment before you go to bed4 ,try drinking two glasses of milk--always sip milk slowly1 taking five minutes for each glassful4 ,better yet1 break and beat two raw eggs into the milk before you drink it4 ,if you can get sweet cream1 drink cream every day4 ,half a glass of cream is a rather rich drink1 but it can be made easy to digest by diluting it with seltzer4 ,get a syphon of cold seltzer and squirt it into the half glass of cream1 and it makes a delicious1 nourishing and digestible drink4 ,malt and cod liver oil are admirable fat producers4 ,there are on the market one or two honest preparations of malt and cod liver oil which are not unpleasant to take4 ,a tablespoonful in a glass of milk makes a valuable drink4 ,you should arrange to weigh yourself every day4 ,if possible get a bathroom scale and always weigh in the morning as soon as you get out of bed4 ,whatever you weigh at night you will weigh from one and a half to two pounds less in the morning4 ,if not convenient to weigh without your clothes on1 then be sure you weigh always with the same clothes4 ,,chapter ,,xvii ,,exercises ,,that ,,help ,,make ,,you ,,beautiful ,there are exercises that reconstruct1 build over1 and there are exercises that destroy1 chiefly by excess4 ,i am going to tell you of the first sort4 ,the second may be dismissed as violent exercises4 ,violence is always a destroyer of beauty4 ,excessive exercise with heavy dumbbells1 whose weight exceeds the strength of the person wielding them1 ,i mention as one of the worst of these destroyers4 ,i have before said1 and ,i am glad to have an opportunity to repeat1 that ,i disapprove of heavy exercise for women4 ,extreme physical effort taxes the strength and leaves its marks upon the countenance1 writing the heavy1 disfiguring characters of fatigue4 ,it overdevelops the muscles1 robbing the figure of its soft1 delicate outline1 making it bumpy1 unseemly and masculine4 ,exercise for women should have three aims4 ,first1 securing as much fresh air as is needed for health4 ,second1 as much motion and adjustment of the internal organs as are needed for health4 ,third1 for the correction of such habits as are threatening to the health and disfiguring to the beauty4 ,a good eclectic system of exercises serves all these purposes4 ,a simple exercise that ,i have long used when ,i noticed a tendency of the shoulders to sag forward is to place my arms behind me1 bend them at the elbows and thrust between the back and the elbows my brother's cane4 ,when he rebelled or when he and his precious cane were absent1 ,i used my own umbrella or sunshade4 ,the temporary support drew the shoulders far back and expanded the lungs so greatly that it became my favorite exercise4 ,in this attitude ,i walk about the room many times1 or1 standing before the open window1 tightly close my lips and breathe deeply4 ,this ,i continue for fifteen minutes1 unless my arms grow very weary1 in which case ,i cease for the time1 beginning again in a few minutes when ,i have rested4 ,in all exercises ,i stop short of the point of fatigue4 ,for a sagging abdomen1 slow1 regular bending exercises are best4 ,stand with the arms raised above the head and the palms forward4 ,keep the elbows straight4 ,with a slow1 sweeping motion bend forward until the tips of the fingers reach the floor in front of you4 ,this is difficult1 especially for the stout and those with muscles stiffened from lack of use4 ,when you have mastered this exercise1 by practise1 thrust the hands clasped at the finger points as far back between the knees as you can4 ,in this way a semicircle is described at one sweeping motion1 and the abdominal muscles are strengthened at the same time and the abdominal organs stimulated4 ,for inactive1 heavy back muscles the rotary trunk motion is best4 ,bend the body forward from the waist line1 and swing the upper part of the body slowly around as though the waist were a pivot4 ,move the trunk slowly to the right as far as it will go1 then to the left as far as possible4 ,sway slowly from the extreme right to left and back again1 being careful not to wrench the body4 ,these last two exercises are invaluable for setting sluggish intestines at work4 ,hundreds of queries are sent me putting in various ways the one essential question3 8,what shall ,i do for a muddy complexion80 ,let me answer all those questions now and briefly4 ,set your sluggish liver to work4 ,the exercises ,i have just described will aid in that most necessary work4 ,so will walks long enough for sufficient exercise1 yet not long enough to exhaust you4 ,if all these1 together with much water-drinking1 fail to correct the liver-marked complexion1 this will be assuredly helpful3 ,standing perfectly erect1 raise the right arm as high as you can1 stretching the left arm downward at the same time4 ,reverse this motion1 and alternate the two4 ,this air-sawing1 done rapidly1 will bestir the laziest liver4 ,for chronic indigestion ,i recommend walking1 varied by rope-jumping4 ,after a brisk walk1 return to your room and1 resting briefly1 jump the rope from twenty to fifty times4 ,your strength must determine the number4 ,it is better to begin with ten times and increase the number to fifty1 or even seventy-five1 as you become accustomed to the unusual exercise4 ,a favorite exercise of mine is the simple1 easy one of sitting straight4 ,sitting straight develops the habit of poise4 ,i sit every day before a mirror1 and at sufficient distance from it so that ,i can see my reflection at full length4 ,i note whether my chest is high or drooping4 ,if high1 ,i know that my figure is at normal4 ,if drooping1 ,i at once seek the cane or umbrella of which ,i have spoken and take the shoulder and chest raising exercise ,i first described1 and which ,i call my 8uplifting0 exercise4 ,this ,i vary by clasping my hands behind and letting the head rest in them as a cup1 while ,i inhale and exhale profoundly1 moving the head slowly in its socket of clasped hands from one side to the other4 ,swinging about on my revolving dressing stool1 ,i note closely and critically my profile from brow to toe4 ,if my chin tends to sag1 seems by the slightest tendency to sag1 ,i lift it as high as ,i can and1 closing my teeth tightly1 draw the backs of my hands alternately across it4 ,i repeat this exercise fifty times1 until the chin tingles and ,i know that the renewed circulation is doing its work of restoring the firmness of the muscles4 ,my chin1 ,i may explain1 seldom displays the pendulous tendency1 for ,i sleep with a very low pillow or no pillow at all4 ,the high pillow ,i regard as one of the greatest enemies of beauty1 for it causes curving shoulders and heavy chin4 ,deep breathing is in itself a superb tonic1 and certain exercises aid greatly in forming that habit and developing the power to breathe from the very extreme of the lungs1 creating1 so to speak1 a continual draught in the lungs4 ,climbing is one of these4 ,the well-known value of mountain-climbing is due to the fact that it necessitates deep breathing4 ,if mountain-climbing is not open to you1 there must be hills within your reach4 ,and there are always staircases4 ,this exercise1 being somewhat taxing1 should be moderately and gradually taken4 ,climbing develops the calves and thighs4 ,a horse is a splendid colleague in the work of upbuilding4 ,a gallop sends the 8reconstructive0 fresh air1 the true carpenter of the body1 rushing through the body1 doing his work quickly and well4 ,young women who complain of dark circles under the eyes admit1 by describing that symptom1 depressed circulation4 ,all of these exercises that develop the power and habit of deep breathing correct lowered circulation and impoverished blood and cure their unlovely symptoms4 ,from ,india1 where the gospel of deep breathing as a spiritual as well as physical aid was born1 comes a method of deep breathing that is wonderfully quieting to rebellious nerves4 ,close the eyes1 and with the forefinger pressed closely against the left nostril1 completely closing it1 inhale and expel the air solely through the right nostril4 ,next1 closing the right nostril by placing the forefinger upon it1 breathe deeply through the left4 ,reverse these operations1 and continue this alternate breathing for several minutes4 ,for clearing clogged lungs this1 also derived from ,india1 is useful3 ,inhale naturally and deeply1 but expel the air slowly and thoroughly from between the lips1 letting it escape with a whistling sound4 ,remember1 however1 to inhale through the nostrils alone1 expelling only with the lips1 for while germs cannot be drawn into the system through the nostrils1 the fine hairs which line the nose being nature's sieve1 they swarm from without into the open mouth at the slightest chance4 ,that chance is afforded by the intake of air4 ,this outrush1 of course1 bars their entrance4 ,it is really one of the simplest things in the world to have healthy lungs4 ,sit erect1 stand erect1 walk erect4 ,and if you go through life sitting correctly1 standing correctly and walking correctly1 you will breathe correctly1 and1 breathing correctly1 you will have healthy lungs4 ,and in order to have a good pair of lungs1 a working machine that will serve you well all your life1 begin at once--the younger you are1 of course1 the better--to build up the muscles between the shoulder blades1 the muscles at the top of the shoulders and the muscles at the back of the neck4 ,fresh air you must have1 of course--plenty of it4 ,but of what avail the purest oxygen if there are districts in that wonderful region inside your ribs where a breath of fresh air can never reach4 ,and those are the very spots where pulmonary germs1 like ,jeshurun in the ,bible1 wax fat and kick4 ,when one has little plague spots like these inside of his anatomy1 fresh air and exercise1 the usual prescriptions for sick lungs1 are of no great value unless erect sitting1 standing and walking are systematic and continuous habits4 ,then only are fresh air and dry sunshine of avail to affect radically the germs of tuberculosis4 ,begin right off now4 ,straighten up4 ,whether you have well lungs or sick lungs1 start exercising4 ,the results obtained by even the simplest gymnastics are often magical1 not only as a gain in health but as a distinct asset of physical beauty4 ,one of your shoulders may hang a little lower than the other2 that will work much harm to a depressed lung4 ,look to it always that your shoulders are well up in the air and well back4 ,lift up and throw back your shoulders so that your shoulder blades will lie flat on the back of your ribs1 with the tops of the shoulders themselves pointing directly upward4 ,make this a habit4 ,i myself exercise but little4 ,the reason is apparent4 ,i am of slight physique1 requiring rather a fostering of the vital spark than a lavish expenditure of it1 in the direction of muscle making4 ,light gymnastics after the bath in the morning1 and a drive in the afternoon quite suffice for me4 ,since ,i never grow fat there is no need of training down4 ,therefore the exercise ,i take is quite enough for my needs4 ,but for ,american women1 with their tendency to grow fat1 this1 ,i know1 is not enough4 ,while ,i believe there should be only enough exercise to properly tone the body1 yet some require much more for this purpose than others1 and there is not enough toning1 when the body grows fat4 ,there is no one form of exercise so generally tonic to the system1 ,i think1 as walking4 ,if a woman be of the bilious temperament1 with an inclination to grow sallow and heavy-eyed1 she needs longer walks than the woman of sanguine temperament1 whose blood leaps through her veins and seems to seek escape by way of the mounting blushes in her cheeks4 ,a woman who needs walking1 and she and her physician should be the best judges of whether she does1 may begin by walking five city blocks and end by walking five or six miles4 ,she should increase the distance gradually1 for one long walk may be of brief benefit1 but regular long walks are of inestimable value4 ,it is never well to begin suddenly violent1 unaccustomed exercise4 ,the chief value of walking is that it forces deep breathing1 and deep breathing causes a cleansing of the intestines1 as when a blast of cold air is introduced into a furnace it burns up all the refuse that while the fire was low clung to the sides and back of the grate4 ,here is a fact that should be kept hanging on a prominent peg in the memory4 ,in ordinary instances1 when a person rests he breathes four hundred and eighty cubic inches of air a minute4 ,this is much less than is needed for cleansing the body4 ,that is the reason why ,i oppose too much sleep4 ,during the sleeping hours the amount of air we breathe is much reduced4 ,that is the reason why many persons look at their worst when they rise in the morning4 ,lack of the amount of oxygen they take into the body when they are moving about1 leaves their cheeks pale1 their muscles sagging1 and their eyes dim4 ,note how much handsomer you are an hour afterward than immediately upon rising4 ,on the other hand1 while walking at the rate of four miles an hour1 which is not the maximum rate1 you will inhale five times as much air1 that is #b1djj cubic inches1 in the same time4 ,have you a room or suite of rooms1 containing four windows8 ,have you opened one1 and1 finding that the air was not being freshened fast enough1 have you opened the other three and noticed the instant improvement8 ,that then must be the best argument for walking as against driving4 ,if you form the daily walk habit see that it becomes a daily habit4 ,don't stay indoors1 because it is too hot1 or because it is raining4 ,one should not take her daily walk in midsummer while the sun is highest4 ,rise earlier and take the walk in the dewy part of the day before breakfast4 ,if it is raining dress for the walk in the coquettish little rubber boots that are now fashionable1 and the short serge or flannel walking skirt1 and the little ,tam o',shanter or turban4 ,thus garbed1 you don't care how wet you become4 ,leave your umbrella behind and let the rain pour upon your face4 ,it will be the most grateful bath you ever had in your life4 ,the rain bath for the face is delicious4 ,having had one you will lose no opportunity to take another4 ,you will see in your glowing cheeks their first resemblance to the rose complexion of the ,englishwoman1 the finest complexion in the world4 ,the walk is cheaper and its effects a thousand times more lasting than any cosmetic4 ,it throws off the enveloped cloak of lassitude that hides beauty4 ,no woman is so attractive when she is listless as when she is thoroughly and happily alive4 ,the walk awakens the sleeping or submerged self4 ,it makes life under any circumstances seem worth while4 ,and a woman1 to keep her beauty1 must always think life worth while4 ,i have seen a woman start on her walk pale1 dull eyed1 with the drooping lips that give the appearance of greater age1 and have seen her return from that walk an hour later1 her sallowness replaced by a clear pink skin1 her eyes youthfully bright1 her lips curling upward1 the sign of content1 her step springy4 ,by the magic of the walk she seemed at least five years younger4 ,most of the famous pedestrians live to an old age4 ,in a small town in ,america lives a man of seventy-five who recently took a two hundred mile walk in three days1 stopping only for short rests of a few hours4 ,he returned home1 having rid himself of a bilious attack4 ,another seventy-year-old youth walked off the rheumatism in a ramble from ,san ,francisco to ,new ,york4 ,therein lies one of the greatest values of the walk4 ,it eliminates lingering1 self-made poisons from the system4 ,an excess of uric acid is just now the fashionable affliction4 ,no one suffers from it who is an habitual walker4 ,rheumatism and gout are caused by the settling of deposits about the joints4 ,those deposits of poisonous matter are not permitted to form if there is a thorough elimination by means of walking and much water drinking4 ,indigestion in its various forms can be corrected1 especially in the earlier stages1 by walking1 in connection with careful diet4 ,indigestion is a physical failing1 especially peculiar to women4 ,walking1 by bringing into play unused muscles and by making deep breathing necessary1 as a walk always does1 relieves this condition4 ,whatever clears the internal organs clears the complexion4 ,whatever naturally clears the internal organs brightens the eyes4 ,whatever promotes deep breathing lays in a new stock of vigor1 as we fill our cellars with coal in the winter4 ,riding is good exercise for women1 if not taken in excess4 ,its drawback is that the side saddle forces one hip and shoulder higher than the other4 ,if a woman rides she should by all means ride astride1 so obviating this difficulty4 ,while ,i take my own morning exercise after the bath1 with no aid whatever1 dumbbells are valuable to those who 8cannot become interested in freehand exercise40 ,i should advise beginning with the smallest dumbbells made1 those weighing one to half a pound4 ,wrapped in a lightweight woolen bathrobe1 and wearing tights or knickerbockers1 hose and sandals or slippers1 let her stand before the open window while she manipulates the dumbbells4 ,with shoulders back and chest thrown out and head erect1 let her curl the dumbbells twenty times1 meanwhile breathing slowly and deeply in time with the exercise4 ,start with the dumbbells at the shoulders and push them high over the head1 counting and breathing deeply twenty times4 ,illustration3 ,,madame ,,cavalieri ,,in ,,her ,,music ,,room ,rest for five minutes1 the dumbbells standing on the floor in front of you4 ,bending your knees very little1 but keeping your arms straight1 rise to an erect position1 with the dumbbells resting at your waist4 ,repeat this exercise1 but raising the bells as high and as far behind your neck as possible4 ,now start with the bells held by the arms in a horizontal position4 ,raise the bells until they are high above the head1 then lower to the first position1 keeping the elbows straight4 ,when this exercise has become easy1 turn back the face until you are gazing at the ceiling4 ,breathe deeply4 ,this is one of the best known exercises for chest expansion4 ,the others develop the back1 arms1 chest1 shoulders and waist4 ,this is valuable to correct a torpid liver4 ,stand erect4 ,raise the right arm1 reaching as far as you can with it1 at the same time pushing downward with the left hand4 ,reverse this movement1 pushing upward with the left hand and downward with the right hand4 ,alternate until you are nearly breathless4 ,for a flat chest this exercise without apparatus is helpful4 ,shrug the shoulders as high and as fast as possible1 ceasing only when you become dizzy4 ,this1 if the shoulders are even4 ,if they are uneven1 practice raising the defective one alone until in the course of weeks or months they are straightened1 or carry a high cane on that side4 ,for the girl who has not learned to breathe correctly--that is1 deeply1 it is well to stand before the open window1 and with her hands raised1 the palms outward1 inhale deeply1 counting ten1 hold1 counting ten1 exhale1 counting ten4 ,or this3 ,clasp the hands behind the head1 the palms supporting it1 and with the chest thrust forward1 inhale1 count and exhale as advised4 ,if this at first causes giddiness count but four and gradually1 as the body becomes accustomed to the new exercises1 increase the counts to ten1 and even to twenty-five4 ,for a stretching of all the muscles the best exercise ,i know is to clench the fists and1 raising the arms1 with elbows unbent1 above the head1 stretch the body to the greatest possible height4 ,another to give suppleness to the body is to rise on the tiptoes1 then lower the body until the weight rests upon the soles1 then up and down again fifty times4 ,i have known persons so infatuated with this exercise that they repeated it two hundred1 and even five hundred times a day4 ,one warning3 ,never carry exercise beyond the point of slight fatigue4 ,never let it reach the point of exhaustion1 for exhaustion1 like illness1 is a synonym for ugliness4 ,women fancy that a weak back is the heritage of their sex4 ,they fancy that aches and pains in that region are inevitable4 ,in this they are mistaken4 ,the back may be rebuilded and strengthened as can other weak spots4 ,discreet exercises are the best aid in that desirable direction4 ,for children who are growing round shouldered1 shoulder braces are1 for a time1 beneficial1 for they train the muscles to erectness4 ,when this training has been accomplished the braces should be removed and the child required to practice the carriage the brace has taught him4 ,but for a grown person ,i never advise braces except as a last resort in a desperate case1 and particularly in cases of lung affections1 to require the person to inhale fresh air4 ,we often receive the advice1 8,rest your back to stop its aching40 ,this is sound advice in cases of extreme fatigue1 but generally the best way to rest the back is to strengthen it1 and the way to strengthen it is by well directed1 but not violent1 exercises4 ,every muscle in the body is there for some use4 ,everyone should have enough exercise to keep it healthy4 ,the muscles of the back are weak because they are so seldom used4 ,the best exercises for development of these neglected muscles are those which involve stooping4 ,spoiled1 pampered beauties test themselves by stooping1 and if they can touch the floor with their finger tips1 without bending the knees1 they pronounce themselves fit4 ,women less spoiled and pampered have far less anxiety about keeping fit4 ,their everyday work requires enough stooping to keep the muscles of the back flexible and the muscles of the abdomen firm1 and of normal size4 ,lifting moderate weights from the floor is a good exercise for strengthening the back4 ,if the back be very weak it is well to begin with an empty bucket4 ,as exercises strengthen it gradually fill the pail4 ,a basket with a handle may serve the same purpose4 ,stoop slowly1 and slowly lift the weight4 ,keep the leg muscles tense and make the muscles of the arms tense4 ,reach slowly forward and lift the weight with both hands4 ,lift it on a level with the waist line4 ,then lower it as slowly to the floor4 ,next to stooping1 twisting the muscles of the back is a good exercise for strengthening it4 ,but let this twisting be slowly and gently done1 or this will be one of the instances in which the remedy is worse than the disease4 ,violent exercise will only make the muscles weaker and cause a more severe ache1 and possibly a severe injury1 by wrenching them4 ,this is the best method for the twisting4 ,lift the arms slowly above the head1 with the elbows unbent4 ,then slowly turn the body to the right1 resting its weight on the left leg4 ,swing the body around1 keeping the arms above the head but shifting the weight to the right leg4 ,this is a most valuable exercise1 for it contorts the muscles1 causes a supply of blood to flow through them and by the unusual action they gain strength4 ,the same exercise as the foregoing can be advantageously done with the arms stretched out horizontally before you1 and swinging them in a large half circle1 being careful to shift the weight from one leg to the other and keeping tense the muscles of the legs on which the weight rests4 ,as a rule round shoulders are the sign of weakened muscles4 ,or the appearance of round shoulders may be given by a too great accumulation of fat across the shoulders4 ,a good exercise to correct this is a simple squaring of the shoulders1 drawing in at the same time lungs full of air4 ,push back your arms so that the forearms are on a level with the waist and the elbows are pushed as far back as possible4 ,by a gentle sawing motion move the elbows forward and back4 ,this causes a rush of blood to the muscles surrounding the shoulders1 and nourishes the muscles which you are exercising and banishes the fat cells4 ,to banish fat from the back draw the arms back as ,i have described4 ,thrust between the back and elbows a stout cane or a broomstick4 ,manipulate the cane by means of the elbows so that the muscles are not only strengthened but the cane is rolled over the flesh4 ,the effect is to break the fat cells4 ,this is sometimes more easily done if you hold the cane in a diagonal position4 ,useful to the same end is the exercise of sitting erect in a chair and exaggeratedly shrugging the shoulders1 first one1 then the other1 then both together4 ,work with light dumbbells will also in time reduce the fat of the back1 but ,i counsel the use of light clubs and these in moderation4 ,standing erect1 the feet resting flatly on the floor and the knees unbending1 raise the dumbbells slowly above the head without bending the elbows4 ,as slowly lower them until the arms hang loosely at the sides4 ,if you notice that one shoulder is higher than the other1 give heed to your hips4 ,the hip on the other side is probably thrust up and the shoulder on that side sinks1 the shoulder on the opposite side rising to balance it4 ,so if one shoulder is high1 correct your way of standing4 ,stand with the weight evenly divided and rest on the balls of your feet4 ,your shoulders will drop naturally into place4 ,keep them in place4 ,have you ever thought of the broomstick as an aid to beauty8 ,jesting8 ,not at all4 ,i wish to convince you that that everyday tool for keeping your home clean is a means of making yourself handsomer4 ,indeed1 yes4 ,sweeping itself is an admirable exercise4 ,it gives a variety of activity by causing several of the least used muscles to stretch and contract4 ,sweep vigorously and thoroughly and you will feel the rush of blood to the muscles of your forearm1 to the muscles surrounding your shoulder blades and to those at the small of the back4 ,and1 more valuable than any of these1 it causes you to bend the body at the waist1 thus strengthening the muscles which are weak in nearly all women1 those of the abdomen1 muscles which1 allowed to become weak and flaccid1 cause that part of the body to sag1 giving an unlovely prominence with the ugly bulge at the hips which caused a visiting artist from ,europe to sneer3 8,ah1 the great ,american figure is not1 as ,i thought1 the ,almighty dollar4 ,no1 it is the unexercised forms of the women40 ,the ,american woman has learned to develop and keep in control the upper half of her figure4 ,fine chests1 with a graceful line from the shoulder to the bust1 have grown common among ,american women4 ,many of them have mastered the not difficult art of deep breathing1 so expanded the chest1 developed the lung power and perfected what may be termed their upper halves4 ,but the glaring defect remains--the clumsy1 conspicuous lower half of the body1 which can only be made pliable and symmetrical with the rest of the body by exercises1 among which note this simple one ,i have named1 sweeping4 ,any household exercise that causes you to bend at the waist to the floor will keep the hips and abdomen in control1 and in time diminish their size4 ,for this reason1 if not for that of neatness1 never lose an opportunity1 if your figure has the defect ,i mention1 to stoop to pick up a bit of paper or lint1 or a scrap of cloth1 from the floor4 ,stoop from the waist4 ,don't resort to that trick of the indolent or the awkward1 falling upon the knees when you pick up anything4 ,stooping is a graceful posture4 ,learn it4 ,if the defect in your figure is the other sort1 the broomstick is still your friend4 ,but use it in a different way4 ,if you have a weak1 narrow chest1 if you are round shouldered1 you should apply yourself to development in a different direction and your sweeping should not be the main object1 but an incident1 of your broom handle exercise4 ,and if you are of this habit be sure to protect your not robust lungs from the dust raised1 to some extent1 by sweeping1 even though the broom be swathed in a damp cloth1 by keeping your lips firmly closed4 ,dust is nearly always disease laden4 ,while the dry disease germs might continue their way through the air without causing breeding of disease1 the darkness and moisture and the weakness of your lungs1 to which they find their way through the open mouth1 will stir them into new life and you will be the victim4 ,never1 in any circumstances1 inhale through the mouth4 ,occasionally to rid the body of an excess of carbonic acid gas you may safely exhale through the mouth to still further purify the body4 ,never1 never1 take in air through the mouth4 ,don't allow the nose to become lazy4 ,to inhale air is its duty4 ,force it to perform it4 ,and aid it by keeping the nostrils free from clogging substances4 ,the broom stick will serve its best purpose for you by being shortened1 cut to a length of two or two and a half feet1 according to the 8reach0 of your arms4 ,grasping the stick firmly1 with a hand at either end1 hold it high above the head and draw the air in deeply1 filling the lungs to their capacity with full draughts of air4 ,when you have filled every cell of the lungs with the fresh air hold the stick firmly above the head1 count silently at least five4 ,this done1 drop your arms slowly1 your hands still clenching the stick1 in front of you1 below the waist4 ,while doing this expel the air gently until you feel that the lungs are almost empty of air4 ,it is not enough to say to most persons3 8,shallow breathing is a bad habit4 ,correct it40 ,the active human mind is an interrogation point and demands the courtesy and satisfaction of an answer4 ,well1 then1 the results of shallow breathing are these3 ,sensitiveness to all the conditions that cause colds1 and a disposition to allow colds to deepen into consumption or widen into pneumonia4 ,shallow breathing makes the liver lazy1 and soon the body is bile flooded1 the eyes becoming dull and the complexion yellow and lifeless4 ,clogged stomach and intestines are the marks of the shallow breather1 for the body engine has not enough oxygen draught to burn up the fuel that has been thrown into it as food4 ,it is only the deep breather who enjoys life to its full and shows her enjoyment of it4 ,if you are not already an out-of-door woman become one at the earliest opportunity4 ,make a business of learning at least one of the outdoor sports4 ,shall it be golf8 ,then you will have chosen well1 for golf develops the muscles which are not strong in women1 those of the back4 ,by encouraging deep breathing it develops her chest4 ,by causing her to bend considerably from the waist it strengthens her abdominal muscles4 ,because it causes her to walk a great deal it strengthens weak ankles and develops the muscles of the lower leg4 ,these points1 remembered and practiced1 will make you a better golf player and will develop your health and strength in a corresponding ratio4 ,select your clubs with careful view to their length1 and this will depend upon your own height and the length of your arms4 ,to choose a club that is too long is as foolish and injurious as it is1 if you are short1 to sit upon a chair so high that your feet dangle4 ,learn a good position for your strokes with wooden clubs at the very beginning4 ,you should be erect4 ,one leg should be straight under the body4 ,its heel should be on the ground1 the toe a little pointed in4 ,slightly below the hips and not more than four inches from the body should be the level of the grip4 ,because freedom of the wrists is so very important better practice when not on the links with a cane or closed umbrella4 ,place the hands together and hold them quite still in front of the hips1 depending for the motion of the stick entirely upon the wrists4 ,remember that the golf stick swings on a pivot formed by the hands and wrists4 ,one of the benefits of golf playing to a woman is that it teaches concentration4 ,the eye must be kept upon the ball1 not before it is struck or while it is leaving the sward1 but after it has left the ground4 ,if you take up lawn tennis play in moderation1 especially at the beginning4 ,i like tennis for women because it induces a fine flow of perspiration that will carry the clogging poisons out of the system4 ,it stimulates the circulation and forces deep breathing4 ,it has the further value of distributing the exercise rather generally throughout the muscles of the body4 ,many women play tennis1 but few play it well4 ,a reason is that they are careless in learning the first principles of the game4 ,they are liable to grasp the racket loosely1 and this spoils their play4 ,relax your grasp and the racket will turn in the hand while you make your stroke4 ,always hold it by the extreme end1 letting the leather binding on the handle rest against the palm4 ,for your preliminary practice before you play a game that is watched by critical friends practice strokes alone4 ,bat the ball against the kitchen door or the barn door or the neighbor's fence4 ,you will have spent your vacation well if during it you learn to swim4 ,train yourself to the confidence and fearlessness that are necessary to master swimming4 ,make yourself realize that you need not fear deep water4 ,it is no more dangerous to have two feet of water over your head than as many inches4 ,this is especially true of salt water1 for the deepest water has the greatest power to hold a body on its surface4 ,,chapter ,,xviii ,,postponing ,,the ,,dread ,,signs ,,of ,,old ,,age ,every woman is haunted by a specter1 the dread ghost of old age4 ,at sixteen girls begin to dread it4 ,at thirty-six women set traps for it4 ,at sixty they ward it off as best they may4 ,i will tell you to-day what are the marks of old age and how to remove them4 ,women search their faces in the mirror for the first faint lines that they fear may develop into wrinkles4 ,the importance of these lines they greatly exaggerate4 ,for example1 there are even on a baby's neck two parallel lines known to experts as 8lines of beauty40 ,others have named them 8the collar of ,venus40 ,women foolishly try to remove them1 while the truth is that if a woman does not have them she lacks a recognized sign of beauty1 and writes herself down to all beholders as so fat that her flesh has swallowed up her ,venus's collar4 ,the infallible first sign of age is the sagging cheek muscles4 ,these are more serious and more difficult to treat than wrinkles4 ,when1 at the merciless inspection of her face1 which every wise woman gives herself in the morning1 a woman detects signs of these sagging muscles1 she must at once get to work upon them4 ,the sagging muscles indicate that they have grown too weak to remain in place1 and they must be assisted1 strengthened4 ,the way to strengthen them is to cause freer circulation in those parts that are affected4 ,and the way to stimulate circulation is to massage the surfaces where circulation is desired4 ,but one must be very careful about the massage4 ,bad1 that is1 unintelligent massage1 is worse than none4 ,study the drooping cheek muscles and you will notice that they are apt to sag from the cheek over the edge of the lower jawbone1 and try to melt in an ungraceful way into the neck4 ,this is not to be permitted4 ,the jawbone should keep its thin1 fine edge to the end of life4 ,the nearer it is like a razor edge in sharpness the nearer you are to keeping the facial line of youth4 ,some babes are born moon-faced and moon-faced remain4 ,but it is true1 nevertheless1 in the large majority of cases1 that if the lower edge of the jaw is of knife-like sharpness the woman who possesses it is young4 ,if it be muffled by flesh the woman is old or is growing old4 ,since the flesh is inclined to melt down into the chin1 so forming the double or triple chin1 it is necessary to massage that surplus flesh4 ,strengthen the muscles of the true or normal chin thus3 ,with a pure massage cream give one stroke to the muscles of the chin with the right hand1 then with the left1 and so alternate4 ,pass the hands from side to side1 one under the other4 ,when you have made twenty such strokes give your attention to the cheek muscles proper4 ,with the tips of the first1 second and third fingers rub slowly and gently1 with a rotary motion upward and backward along the line of the jaw1 and upward to the hair line4 ,repeat this operation again and again until the cheek muscles and the fingers are weary4 ,when they have rested begin again1 this time with the softer flesh above the jaw4 ,use the first three fingers again and let the motion be backward and upward again1 but the pressure should be much lighter1 for these muscles have not the bony support of the lower ones1 and it is always hazardous to work other than skillfully on such muscles4 ,for instance1 the flesh just beneath the eye should never be touched4 ,twice a day is often enough for ordinary cases4 ,but in extreme cases ten minutes for massage four times a day is not too often4 ,also let the woman whose cheek muscles are beginning to sag and who by the same token is acquiring a double chin1 remember to keep up her head4 ,ordinarily a woman may turn to the flower for lessons in beauty4 ,in this instance she must look to the horse4 ,how much handsomer is the horse that carries his head high1 and how much younger he looks6 ,keep your head up while you are walking1 while you are talking1 even while you are resting4 ,did you ever see a beauty1 even when in repose1 allow her chin to sink upon her breast8 ,not while she is conscious4 ,no1 no4 ,when she is exhausted from a long walk or a dance she rests the back of her head against the back of a lounging chair1 but her chin is always up1 always4 ,and this not only while she is awake1 but while she is asleep4 ,do not sleep upon a pillow if you can possibly rest without it4 ,or1 if you must have a pillow1 let it be very small4 ,and try to lie on your back1 with your chin up4 ,that is the best position for health and beauty4 ,and now about another particular sign-post of age4 ,there is a saying which persons always accompany by pointing to the delicate lines in front of and extending below the lower portion of a woman's ear3 8,that is where a woman first shows her age40 ,in part that is true4 ,there is one extenuating fact4 ,some ears are set much closer to the head than others4 ,those that are set well back and in draw the skin with a drum-like tightness at the base of the ear4 ,lines never form about ears so set4 ,but if they grow well away from the head the skin about the ear is loose and the lines are sure to come between thirty and forty4 ,i have seen them come about the ears of girls of nineteen4 ,they too can be removed by massage4 ,use the third finger of each hand and massage with both hands at once1 rubbing slowly1 with gentle rotary motion upward4 ,i have known some women to pin back the ears4 ,so they call it2 but it consists merely in passing a band of white muslin around beneath the nose and sloping upward about the upper lobes of the ear1 thus pinning1 or pinioning them4 ,this done for eight hours of every twenty-four1 when the person is asleep1 should do a great deal toward smoothing away the betraying little lines4 ,another sign of age appears about the ears4 ,there1 as a rule1 the hair first begins to grow gray4 ,it would be well to cut rather than pull out these first gray hairs1 for the hair pulled out usually means a mutilation and irritation of the scalp in that part of the head4 ,but if they persist in growing ,i would recommend resignation--or dyeing4 ,i do not advocate hair dyes4 ,the only substance ,i know that ,i believe is not injurious is henna1 which the ,egyptians1 who had wonderful hair1 used4 ,but henna gives the hair a reddish cast4 ,if my hair were growing gray and thin about the ears and temples ,i would massage those parts often with lanolin4 ,dull eyes and dark circles under the eyes are believed to be one sign of departing youth and vigor4 ,quite as often they are signs of impaired health1 of anmia4 ,if you are anmic1 you should go to a reliable physician and get a prescription for some good rebuilder4 ,if this is not possible1 give yourself the good home treatment of plenty of sleep1 of more than the usual outdoor exercise1 and of a diet of eggs1 beets1 spinach and string beans1 all those things which contain much iron4 ,for the woman who is beginning to 8show her age0 ,i prescribe much rest1 but never rest after a meal4 ,she should rest before meals1 say a siesta of an hour and a half before luncheon and dinner1 but not immediately afterward4 ,rest after a meal induces flesh4 ,a sign of age is a dragging gait4 ,the woman who wants to remain young should repair the waste by more rest4 ,when she is in the privacy of her room she can completely relax4 ,but for her in public there should be no relaxation4 ,let her remember the tendency to this dragging and in public be as truly on parade as a soldier at guard drill4 ,also in the older woman we note bent shoulders4 ,they should be straightened4 ,best of all by massage4 ,a long1 full stroke over the shoulders with the palms of the hands1 meeting at a point between the shoulder blades4 ,if massage did not cure ,i should try the shoulder and back braces sold at pharmacists'4 ,but massage with pure cold cream1 tested and analyzed by a chemist1 is the best friend of the older as well as the younger woman who wishes to be beautiful4 ,this is excellent for oily skins3 ,one ounce tincture of benzoin2 two drams tincture of musk2 four drams tincture of ambergris2 five ounces rectified spirits2 one and one-half pints orange flower water4 ,this ,i recommend especially for delicate skins easily roughened by the wind3 ,three ounces almond oil2 five drams white wax2 five drams of spermaceti2 one dram oil of bitter almonds2 three ounces elder flower water2 one ounce witch hazel4 ,this1 a simpler cream1 is wholesome and efficacious3 ,four ounces almond oil2 four ounces rosewater2 one ounce spermaceti2 one ounce white wax4 ,this is an excellent preparation also for an oily skin3 ,six ounces orange flower water1 triple extract2 one ounce deodorized alcohol2 one ounce blanched bitter almonds2 one dram white wax2 one dram spermaceti2 one dram oil of benne2 twelve drops oil of bergamot2 six drops oil of cloves2 six drops oil of bigarade2 one-quarter ounce borax4 ,this is an excellent massage cream1 having cleansing properties3 ,three ounces oil of sweet almonds2 two drams balsam of tolu2 ten drams oil of bitter almonds2 two drams benzoin2 two drops essence of lemon2 two drops essence of cajeput4 ,an exquisite cream1 much used by those who are fastidious1 is this3 ,four ounces oil of sweet almonds2 six drams white wax2 six drams spermaceti2 two drams borax2 one ounce glycerine2 five drops oil of neroli2 fifteen drops oil of bigarade 7extracted from orange skin72 fifteen drops oil of petit grain4 ,some women of the old school prefer a liquid preparation to a cream4 ,one of these was the beautiful ,queen ,elizabeth of ,hungary4 ,her complexion was once the toast of ,europe1 and this when she had reached a very advanced age4 ,i have used this modification of her favorite lotion for the face3 ,one-half ounce oil of rosemary2 two drams oil of lavender2 thirty grains oil of petit grain2 three drams tincture of tolu2 one-half pint orange flower water2 five ounces rectified spirits4 ,let us consider first the cause of wrinkles4 ,the causes1 rather1 should ,i say1 for the sources of wrinkles are five4 ,they are3 ,age1 worry1 weariness1 the bad habit of making faces1 and the shrinking of the flesh away from the skin4 ,we cannot arrest age1 the process of growing old1 but we can conceal for a long time the fact of age4 ,i believe it is quite possible for a woman to say1 8,from this moment ,i shall not appear to grow older10 and to achieve that end4 ,i have known women who have seemed to stop short the revolutions in the wheels of time for twenty years4 ,others ,i have known who by a new regimen1 or by changing their mental attitude toward life1 accustoming themselves to that most wonderful of all rejuvenators1 taking a more cheerful view1 have seemed to grow five or ten years younger4 ,age is not an inevitable creator of wrinkles4 ,it merely deepens the tracks made by our thoughts1 wearing them deeper and deeper with the years as the wheels of a wagon cut deeper and deeper into the clay of a country road4 ,it is to be seen then that prevention is a large part of the treatment of wrinkles4 ,to cure wrinkles first look to it that you do not acquire them4 ,worry is another foe of the childlike smoothness of skin that is one of the most desirable states of beauty4 ,the outward and visible signs of inward worry appear chiefly in two areas1 in the diagonal lines extending from the nostrils to the lips1 and in the forehead where they create what a precocious child1 studying his mother's face1 called 8gutters for the tears40 ,these lines are interesting as indicators of character4 ,the woman with deep lines about her lips has greater determination and passion4 ,she has a more intense emotional nature4 ,the woman with the strongly marked horizontal lines in the forehead is more intellectual4 ,her anxieties are mental1 while those of the woman with the parentheses are temperamental4 ,to the woman with the ever growing deeper tracery on her forehead ,i should say1 8,don't fret40 ,the woman with the fast deepening parentheses ,i advise1 8,don't care40 ,consider these bits of advice4 ,the distinction is illuminative4 ,the accustomed eye sees readily the characters written by fatigue4 ,they are rather creases than wrinkles1 deep folds in the skin1 as though the covering of the muscles had grown weary and limp1 and was resting from its task of smoothly fitting over the muscles4 ,they are perhaps the most disfiguring of the wrinkles and the hardest to remove4 ,illustration3 ,,kitty ,,gordon ,her arms1 neck and shoulders furnish an ideal which every woman should try to attain4 ,the bad habit of making faces--,i shrink appalled from my task of preventing this1 or of counseling how to remove its traces4 ,some women1 especially ,american women1 have yielded to the ugly habit thinking that the lines that follow it are the price one must pay for her vivacity4 ,but they are mistaken1 hopelessly1 fatally mistaken4 ,one of the most vivacious faces ,i have known is that of a beautiful ,french woman4 ,her face is like a mirror1 but the eyes and mouth are the only reflectors4 ,she does not draw the mouth down at one corner or the other while she talks4 ,she does not raise her eyebrows until they threaten to become lost in her hair1 puckering the skin at the corners of the eyes as though there were a drawing string beneath them4 ,she does not prove her concentration upon a topic of conversation by creating deep horizontal lines in the forehead above and between the eyes4 ,she does not laugh so violently that the flesh breaks up into ripples and eddies about the eyes4 ,she makes her glowing eyes and her smiling lips express all her thought and emotion4 ,so did all the ,french beauties of old1 which was the reason that ,ninon ,l',enclos and ,mme4 ,recamier1 in their extreme age1 had lovers and no wrinkles4 ,the shrinking away of the muscles from the skin is a serious menace to beauty4 ,its causes are several4 ,perhaps a woman has reduced her flesh more suddenly than wisely4 ,perhaps the shrinkage has been caused by anmia4 ,the condition demands nourishment of the skin and of the muscles beneath the skin4 ,but this is merely a local treatment4 ,more than anything else it requires a rebuilding and rejuvenation of the entire system4 ,knowing the causes we must avoid them4 ,we must resolve to conceal if we cannot stop the ageing process4 ,we must not1 dare not1 worry4 ,we must never pass a certain point of fatigue1 that point at which we are too tired to rest or sleep4 ,such a weariness is destructive4 ,we must not make faces while we talk4 ,whatever our emotions we must try to keep our features serene as those of a mask4 ,leave to the mouth and eyes the task of expression4 ,we must by nourishing both skin and muscles prevent their divorcing each other4 ,but granted that the wrinkles have appeared what shall we do to remove them8 ,we must first remove the cause which has produced them4 ,if two ugly parallel lines are discernible between the eyebrows we must correct that habit of scowling1 whose footprints are ugliness4 ,and we must avoid eye-strain4 ,often the lines in their beginning can be removed by giving up the habit of reading except by daylight1 and then of not reading long continuously4 ,a young woman who1 after much travel1 noticed a light but ominous tracery of delicate lines on her face1 said3 8,heavens6 ,i must take the rest cure1 and buy cold cream by the pound60 ,she was right4 ,those first menacing wrinkles showed that she had not preserved the balance of vitality which assures perfect health4 ,she had given out her strength faster than she renewed it4 ,the outgo exceeded the inflow1 which is merely over exertion1 differently phrased4 ,she went to bed and remained there for three days4 ,in her darkened room sleep1 the great ironer out of lines1 aided by the generous and frequent applications of cold cream1 removed her wrinkles4 ,when she came forth from her rest cure her skin was smooth and as delicately flushed with pink as that of a healthy babe4 ,the cold cream which she had bought 8by the pound0 was one of the best to be obtained in the market or to be frugally made at home3 ,spermaceti1 ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 oil of sweet almonds1 #b ounces2 lanolin1 #a ounce2 cocoanut oil1 #a ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 #ab drops2 orange flower water1 #a ounce4 ,she might have used1 as effectively1 this which has an astringent quality1 while the former is essentially a skin food3 ,almond milk1 #a ounces2 rose water1 #f ounces2 alum1 #fj grains4 ,this relic of the customs of old ,france is another aid in the removal of crow's-feet or other paths of age3 ,honey1 #c ounces2 isinglass1 #a ounces2 pure vinegar1 preferably that made from white wine1 #a pint2 shredded red sandal wood1 dram4 ,a deliciously refreshing pomade classed with the wrinkle removers is composed of3 ,white wax1 #cj grams2 honey1 #ae grams2 juice of lily bulbs1 #fj grams2 rose water1 #ab grams4 ,this is a liquid preparation which the beauties of the ,austrian court named in their gratitude 8,the ,water of ,eternal ,youth03 ,pulverized sweet almonds1 #dh grains2 pulverized gum arabic1 #cb grains2 pulverized benzoin1 #cb grains2 pulverized olibanum incense1 #cb grains2 alcohol1 #h ounces2 cloves finely ground1 #af grains4 ,the face should be washed with this as often as convenient1 and the preparation can be applied by wetting freely bandages of cheese cloth or bolting cloth or old silk or muslin1 tied about the chin or forehead4 ,of course these must be applied by careful and skillful massage1 the lines about the lips removed by a rotary motion of the second and third fingers of each hand1 rubbing upward toward the nose4 ,the lines about the eyes should be massaged in the same way1 away from the corners of the eyes and toward the hair line4 ,the lines between the brows should be ironed away by a pressure of the fingers between the brows and sweeping away above the eyebrows to the point where the eyebrows end4 ,so for the horizontal lines of the brow the rotary motion of the first three fingers upward toward the hair4 ,afterward all this surface should be gone over carefully with the light1 tapping motion which ,i have before described as being like the patter of rain4 ,the woman who has reduced her flesh rapidly may find the skin about the cheeks sagging into deep folds when she bends her head4 ,these can be corrected by three methods1 all of which ,i recommend to be used for that condition4 ,first she must cultivate as a habit that poise of the head which is infinitely useful in removing a double chin4 ,she must keep the chin and head tilted upward1 the most graceful and becoming poise of the head for all women4 ,she should massage the muscles with the first three fingers1 following the muscles backward toward the lines of the ears4 ,for the wee wrinkles that form in front of the ears massage with the second finger1 in rotary motion1 gently back toward the ear4 ,for obstinate wrinkles on the forehead adhesive plaster may be cut into strips and pasted across the wrinkled surface after the skin has been drawn taut into place by the thumb and forefinger4 ,a home remedy is a compress of old linen or muslin dipped into a mixture of the white of an egg and a gill of alcohol4 ,press the loose skin back into place as ,i have directed and apply the compress4 ,dryness of the skin will cause wrinkles4 ,to understand this study two rose leaves1 one moist and full veined and nourished1 the other drying and forming fine lines4 ,the dry skin wrinkles sooner and deeper than the oily skin4 ,wrinkles are chiefly formed by the skin ceasing to fit well over the muscles which it protects4 ,this may be because the muscles shrink or because the skin loses its firmness1 or both4 ,try to avoid wrinkles by keeping your face placid4 ,the nervous person has more wrinkles and forms them earlier than the one of more self-controlled nature4 ,don't half close your eyes when you laugh4 ,that habit causes wrinkles4 ,don't let your mouth droop when you are angry or troubled4 ,that carves deep lines about your lips1 making the dreaded parentheses4 ,don't wrinkle your brow when you talk or listen1 to prove your veracity or interest4 ,it is a habit that carves transverse lines on the brow4 ,when they begin to appear take more rest4 ,plenty of sleep is the greatest ironer out of wrinkles4 ,correct the bad habits that have caused them4 ,live simply4 ,nothing brings wrinkles sooner than dissipation and late hours4 ,when small1 fine lines begin to appear1 putting cold cream well into the affected area should help to drive them away4 ,ironing that portion of the face with small lumps of ice covered with cotton or gauze is a good remedy if you persist in it4 ,a method in general use in the beauty parlors of ,paris1 and that has been introduced recently in this country1 is to spray the wrinkle area with cool or cold water4 ,if you have not a wrinkle spray1 a large perfume atomizer will serve the same end4 ,when your skin seems loose and inclined to form into folds use one of the following remedies3 ,dip a bit of absorbent cotton into glycerine and pat it well into the wrinkle bed4 ,or apply cologne water in the same way4 ,in a short time you can decide which is the better adapted to your skin4 ,glycerine1 while a food and stimulant to some skins1 is an irritant to others4 ,a nightly bath of the face in buttermilk sometimes tightens up the loosened skin4 ,this is a method much in use in ,paris and ,rome4 ,hundreds of years old1 traced even to the time of ,cleopatra1 it is still effective1 it is claimed1 in keeping the countenance smooth and youthful4 ,heat a shovel red hot in the fire4 ,throw upon it when so heated a handful of powdered myrrh4 ,bend the face over it to receive the fumes1 such fumes as can penetrate the napkin that has been spread over the face4 ,do this two or three times at the same treatment4 ,heating the shovel once more1 pour white wine over it and1 still through the moistened napkin which protects the face from the heat of the fire1 receive the fumes in the face4 ,a fortnight of two such treatments given daily is the recipe a woman whose face is smooth as a girl's1 though this famous ,parisienne is now sixty1 gave me for my ,american readers4 ,a simpler remedy is to boil a small handful of pearl barley in half a pint of water until it is thoroughly cooked4 ,add a half dozen drops of mecca balsam4 ,place in a stone bottle and shake thoroughly before using4 ,bathe the face in this once a day4 ,these astringent lotions may also be applied with benefit3 ,water1 #a quart2 pearl barley1 #b handfuls4 ,boil until the barley grains are soft4 ,strain the liquor and add #ej drops of tincture of benzoin4 ,wash the face1 if possible1 a dozen times a day with this3 ,oil of rosemary1 ounce2 oil of lavender1 #b drams2 tincture of tolu1 #d drams2 rosewater1 #a pint2 rectified spirits of wine1 #a pints2 oil of petit grain1 #cj drops4 ,believe me1 if the spirit remains young1 the flesh will age but slowly4 ,contrive to keep interested in persons and conditions and circumstances4 ,don't let yourself be bored4 ,flee from bores or drive them from you4 ,when you are uninterested1 your face grows heavy and opaque4 ,it loses its reflective power1 that mirror-like quality which is its chief charm4 ,one of the wisest and most enchanting women ,i ever knew--truly a woman irresistible--told me she would never allow any one to see her in any but her sunniest mood4 8,meeting people is making pictures of one's self10 she said4 8,memory pictures that remain long1 perhaps forever1 in their minds4 ,it is difficult1 sometimes impossible1 to remove that memory picture4 ,they may see us in other moods and phases1 but the ugly picture persists4 ,if ,i am in an unbecoming mood1 ,i hide until it is past1 as ,i would hide did ,i suffer from an infectious disease40 ,that is true philosophy of charm4 ,be interested1 be cheerful1 be at your best when you are in public4 ,if you cannot be these1 hide from the sight of men and women until the eclipse of your charming self has passed4 ,if you are a business and professional woman and cannot do so1 at least hide the mood beneath an impassive face and behind the screen of a silent tongue4 ,two extreme evidences of the approach of age are certain conditions of the head and feet4 ,don't let the lower part of your face grow heavy4 ,that adds to the appearance of age4 8,jowl-like0 cheeks and a loose-hanging chin add years to apparent age4 ,prevent that defect1 or1 if it has appeared1 correct it by great care4 ,be vigilant as a worthy policeman4 ,be on the alert4 ,say to yourself1 8,am ,i holding my head high8 ,am ,i giving the muscles of my chin exercise to keep them firm1 or am ,i allowing the flesh to accumulate and form a bag about it80 ,as many times a day as you can1 and at least every morning and evening1 give the neck and chin their stretching exercises4 ,raise the chin and let the head fall back upon the shoulders4 ,let it rest as far back as possible1 and with the tips of the fingers press gently upward the muscles at the sides of the neck4 ,persuade those muscles4 ,train them4 ,in time they will respond to the education you are giving them and grow firmer4 ,if1 at the same time1 you iron the falling muscles of the chin and neck with a piece of ice the process of rebuilding the lower part of the face will be quicker4 ,but ,i have found very effective retiring with a piece of soft cloth1 saturated in witch hazel1 pressed about my neck4 ,witch hazel is an astringent and will draw the flaccid skin tighter4 ,no matter how tired you are1 don't allow yourself to look tired4 ,the tired lines and slipping downward muscles add greatly to your appearance of age4 ,control them4 ,it can be done by an exercise of the will4 ,smile4 ,most women look better when smiling1 and all1 who have well kept teeth1 look younger4 ,i said you must look to your feet4 ,that is true4 ,if you have worn shoes that give you a silly1 mincing gait1 buy larger ones and acquire a free1 natural1 springing walk4 ,don't drag your feet about as though they and your body had a weight you could scarcely bear4 ,lift your feet and walk with the fine spring and swing of youth4 ,this1 too1 is a habit that can be formed even at an advanced age4 ,perhaps you have had the slow1 heavy step of age from your childhood4 ,then it is high time to change it--if you would be young4 ,study the faces about you and you will see that some of them are firm muscled1 full and of even contour4 ,in others you see that the muscles are sagging1 slipping from place4 ,the face is growing heavier about the chin and there is a drawn1 strained look of the muscles about the eyes and temples4 ,these are the fallen faces4 ,if you see that the muscles of your face are beginning to slip downward lose no time in counteracting this tendency to make the visage look older and heavier4 ,had ,i my choice between wrinkles and the regrettable fallen face ,i should choose the wrinkles as less ageing in appearance and more likely to be remedied4 ,first1 reform your habits of sleeping4 ,the posture in which we sleep determines into what lines the face and body fall for eight or nine hours of each twenty-four--a third or more of our time4 ,if correct habits are formed for that time there is an admirable start on the road to better looks4 ,notice how your head rests as you fall asleep4 ,perhaps it is bent far forward4 ,in that case the facial muscles are relaxed and their tendency is to slip downward1 tugging their weight1 especially that of the large chin and cheek muscles1 drawing them down throughout the night4 ,all muscles relax while we are asleep4 ,that is the reason why1 on rising in the morning1 the face looks heavy and 8pudgy40 ,the muscles do not recover their tone until the habits of the day reassert themselves4 ,with this knowledge you should be willing to make special effort and endure some inconvenience to prevent this slipping of the facial muscles at night4 ,toss away your pillow1 or1 if you are exceedingly uncomfortable without one1 if the blood rushes to the head and causes you to be sleepless1 use a small1 flat pillow1 or better still1 slip such a pillow beneath the head of the mattress so that your body will rest at a slight incline1 and the hair and scalp will be spared the heating of the pillow4 ,lie upon your back4 ,in this posture your chin will be thrust upward and the muscles will be at tension4 ,if you sleep thus the facial muscles will not sag during the night hours4 ,study your habits during the day and correct such habits as cause a falling of the facial muscles4 ,perhaps you bend your head unnecessarily low over your work4 ,if so avoid this4 ,at any rate1 give the chin muscles the opposite exercise by bending the head backward upon the shoulders many times a day4 ,perhaps you have formed the habit picturesquely described as 8talking into your chest40 ,this is an unbecoming mannerism of many women4 ,shyness or self-consciousness or listlessness may be the cause in some instances4 ,in others it is sheer bodily laziness4 ,don't let your chin sink upon your chest when you talk1 nor at any other time4 ,it makes a very unpleasant impression upon the hearer4 ,it gives him the idea that you are secretive or deceitful4 ,lift your head when you talk1 and look into the face of the person you are addressing4 ,he or she will admire you more4 ,besides it is another means of preventing the slipping of the facial muscles1 of keeping your face from falling4 ,we go back to nature for inspiration for beauty4 ,some of the most graceful of the modern dancers are self-taught and nature-taught1 taking for models of grace the swaying of the tree boughs and the lilt of flowers in a wind4 ,so we can go back to nature for models in the poise of the head4 ,take for an example1 not some tired dray horse who lets his discouraged muscles sink beneath his forelegs1 but the inquisitive bird1 with head uplifted and upturned eyes seeking to solve the mystery of the trees4 ,coax the muscles of the chin and neck into obedience4 ,beginning at the point where the muscles of the neck meet those of the shoulders1 press firmly with the fingers of both hands1 moving the hands upward to the muscles of the lower jaw and continuing the pressure on the muscles behind the ears4 ,is your neck beginning to look old8 ,is the skin growing flabby8 ,are the muscles sagging8 ,is the skin looking yellow8 ,is it no longer a source of pride and pleasure to wear a ,v-shaped or low cut gown8 ,do not despair1 for the ageing neck is not an infallible sign of growing old4 ,it is only one of them4 ,and you have my assurance that you can make it look youthful again4 ,for proof of this let me point you to the great singing teachers1 yes1 and the great singers who are their pupils4 ,almost every one of them--indeed1 ,i can think of no exception--has a round1 white1 youthful-looking throat4 ,one of the most beautiful necks ,i ever saw1 white1 strong1 girlish1 was that of the celebrated vocal teacher1 ,mme4 ,marchesi1 when she was seventy4 ,but while this is true1 it is also true that you should begin giving the neck special attention before you are thirty4 ,it were better if you began when you were twenty-five4 ,first1 look to its careful feeding4 ,give it at least one good meal a day by rubbing cold cream liberally into the front of the neck at night before retiring4 ,look very carefully to the poise of the head4 ,if the head be held proudly1 the chin up1 the muscles of the neck will also be held firm4 ,but if you permit the head to droop the neck muscles share the sagging4 ,never lie with the head high4 ,one small pillow is enough for anyone1 except the insomniac4 ,if you can dispense with the small1 flat pillow and lie with the head and feet on a level1 so much the better for the neck4 ,the neck thus trained1 and with the additional training of deep breathing1 learned by vocal lessons1 should never grow old4 ,i advise every woman to take vocal culture for herself1 even though she have no liking for music1 simply for the sake of the beauty of her neck4 ,the most beautiful necks in the world are those of singers4 ,but if these preventive measures have been neglected and the neck is losing its roundness and its firm aspect1 have recourse to that great body builder1 massage4 ,there is special massage for the neck1 and it must be intelligently given4 ,first strengthen the chin muscles by pressing firmly upon them with the backs of the hands4 ,turn the hands1 with the backs upward1 and letting the finger tips meet beneath the middle of the chin4 ,press with all your strength on the muscles of the chin1 working backward and upward behind the ears to the hair line4 ,second4 ,with the tips of the fingers quite meeting at the point of the collar bone in front1 draw the hands with long1 slow strokes upward to a point beneath the ears4 ,this is a good muscle building movement4 ,third4 ,slap the neck smartly with the palms4 ,fourth4 8,lift0 the tendons at the side of the neck that are inclined to grow more prominent and ropey each year4 ,this lifting consists in seizing the tendons in a firm grasp and seeming to raise them to meet the head4 ,this is painful1 and may even cause a slight headache at first1 but these are only ,nature's protests against the unaccustomed4 ,even ,nature is an old fogey about innovations4 ,fifth4 ,grasp the large muscles at the back of the neck and connecting the shoulders1 and 8lift0 these also4 ,raise them as though it were your purpose to place them in the curve of the neck4 ,this should be followed by a vigorous kneading of the muscles4 ,the aim of all these massage movements is to promote circulation in the neck4 ,the yellowish1 withered-looking skin denotes that the blood flows weakly in that part of the body4 ,the flabby muscles indicate that the muscles have not been well exercised4 ,a good developing exercise for the neck is to let the head lie back as far as possible on the shoulders1 then roll slowly from one shoulder to the other4 ,the hands should be immersed in nourishing cold cream before 8feeding0 the throat muscles4 ,this is a formula for a nutritious cream3 ,almond oil1 #a ounces2 lanolin1 ounce2 spermaceti1 ounce2 witch hazel1 ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 dram4 ,ninon de ,l',enclos1 one of the greatest beauties of ,french history1 had a beautiful neck1 and to her is accredited the use of this neck food3 ,rosewater1 #h ounces2 almond oil1 #h ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce2 attar of rose1 #e drops4 ,this will be quite as efficacious and much less expensive without the attar of rose4 ,the following nourishes and whitens the skin of the neck3 ,honey1 #a tablespoonful2 lemon juice1 #a teaspoonful2 whites of two eggs2 enough bran or almond meal to make a fine paste4 ,this wash is also a good neck bleach1 particularly useful in removing the dark stains or rings caused by wearing the prevalent gilt and silver trimmings about the throat3 ,hydrochloric acid1 ounce2 water1 #e ounces4 ,avoid high1 tight collars4 ,wear soft white silk and muslin linings next the throat for colored collars4 ,if it is necessary to wear costumes with high collars on the street1 change them at once for collarless gowns when you are at home4 ,if you wear chains or dog collars about the neck let them be loose4 ,a famous theatrical manager whose duty it had been to select thousands of beauties for the choruses of his productions1 and who was a celebrated connoisseur of feminine beauty said that a neck to be beautiful must look as though it 8belonged0 to the body1 that is1 to use theatrical parlance1 it must 8be in the picture40 ,a long neck on a short woman is absurd1 and a short neck on a tall woman makes her look like a freak of nature4 ,if a girl is slender her neck should be slim1 but she should take measures to prevent its being 8scrawny40 ,if a neck is full and round1 to correspond with the body of the owner1 it is as nature designed it to be4 ,a full1 well rounded neck is not only beautiful in itself1 but it is a sign of abundant vitality4 ,the same theatrical manager ,i have before quoted said he cared not how thin a neck was if it matched the body and was well 8covered40 ,he meant if the outlines of the bones and sinews were well hidden by a delicate covering of flesh4 ,usually if the neck is very thin the entire body is also1 and measures should be taken to upbuild the constitution4 ,eating nourishing food1 breathing deeply and giving the body plenty of rest1 should fill out the hollows in the neck as well as the body4 ,this process can be hastened by patting into it nightly an emollient made of equal parts of almond oil and vaseline4 ,also the neck muscles can be strengthened by placing upon the head now and then a moderate weight1 as a book1 and walking slowly about the room1 balancing the book by so steadying the head that the book will not fall4 ,if the neck be disproportionately fat gentle pinching between the thumb and first three fingers should reduce its bulk4 ,,chapter ,,xix ,,how ,,to ,,train ,,your ,,children ,,to ,,be ,,beautiful ,it is possible to train a child to beauty and this training consists of two means4 ,one is to teach the little one habits of personal daintiness4 ,the other is to impress upon him or her while very young1 the principles of health4 ,a third is to correct any defects by early attention to them on your own part if you are parent1 guardian or teacher4 ,for instance there is the child whose beauty may be marred by outstanding ears4 ,the ears can be pressed back against the head by a compress made at home and worn at night4 ,a bandage easily made in the house consists of a long1 folded strip of strong muslin1 twisted first around the head beneath the chin1 then around the neck1 then over the crown of the head1 the ends of the strips of muslin being drawn rather tightly over the ears and fastened to one of the lengthwise strips by safety pins4 ,if you find the child often breathing with difficulty he probably suffers from that growth at the back of the nostrils called adenoids4 ,take him to a physician and have them removed1 so preventing a long train of disasters1 mental and physical1 whose signs are that strained1 drooping countenance we know as an adenoid face4 ,don't let any charlatan try to convince you that they can be cured in any other way4 ,the single way to remove adenoids is by a surgical operation4 ,look to the fact that the child's teeth have a good start4 ,a little watchfulness will cause the first set to be drawn in good time for the second to come in straight and strong4 ,then teach the little one to take pride in their whiteness4 ,furnish a pure1 fresh powder or paste1 or let her use a powder for one cleansing and a paste for the next1 and so on1 alternating4 ,teach her to brush the teeth up and down1 not across1 and to brush them inside as well as out1 and along the crowns4 ,help her to form the habit of always rinsing her mouth with warm water1 or with warm salt water1 if there be an acid tendency of the mouth1 after each meal4 ,teach her that the mouth must always be rinsed with water into which a pinch of borax or of bicarbonate of soda has been dropped1 after eating either fruits1 which are acid1 or candy1 which soon resolves itself into acids4 ,teach her that it is as necessary to be pure of mouth as of speech4 ,train her to be proud of clean nails and to be ashamed of gray or black rimmed ones4 ,teach her early to trim her nails and to keep them spotless1 and keep the cuticle pressed back from them4 ,teach them that soiled hands are a disgrace to a little girl and offensive in a little boy4 ,appealing to the pardonable vanity that is in little children1 teach all that much of the expression of the face depends upon the arch and smoothness of the eyebrows1 and show them how to train them by twice daily brushings4 ,teach her to watch the dainty movements of her pet canary and her favorite kitten and emulate their table manners4 ,birds handle their food delicately1 and kittens seldom fill their mouths overfull4 ,the little girl will want to be as fine as her pets1 and unconsciously will develop pretty table manners4 ,teach him not to be afraid of fresh air4 ,teach him the contrary by telling him the story of 8,the ,black ,hole of ,calcutta0 and of the beautiful boy who was gilded to head a procession and who died after his brief glory because his pores had been closed by the gaudy stuff with which he was bedecked4 ,bogie stories are permissible if they frighten children into care of their health by leaving their windows open two or three inches at night and by wearing their clothes loose4 ,don't let the children in your charge study to the point of eyestrain4 ,teach them to use the ears to save the eyes4 ,let them learn by listening4 ,it was prophesied by a writer on health that in time the phonograph that now grinds out rag time airs to the lessening of the standard of popular taste will have records which tell the classic short stories of biography1 fiction and history4 ,don't allow a child to overstudy4 ,better a well-developed1 rosy-cheeked little one who knows no ,latin nor higher mathematics than a squinty1 anmic who knows both1 but who doesn't know the way in the woods to the woodchuck's hole nor how to defend himself in a schoolboy fight4 ,teach them to love the life in the open4 ,if you live all year in the crowded city1 the roofs1 at least1 are available to you4 ,and in some part of your home1 even though small1 you can put up a crude gymnasium4 ,for instance1 a horizontal bar1 with a mattress drawn under it for precaution1 will give the little ones great fun1 besides being a developing agent4 ,break the children's unpleasant facial habits in the forming4 ,show a little girl how ugly and old she looks by flashing a mirror before her eyes while she is frowning4 ,show her that the frown of concentration is as ugly as the frown of anger and train her to solve a problem with smooth brows4 ,if she twists her mouth unpleasantly when she talks1 tell her of it1 and if that doesn't cure her1 call the mirror to your aid4 ,,chapter ,,xx ,,advice ,,to ,,blondes ,,and ,,brunettes ,six subjects are of special consideration to the blonde4 ,she must remember that her type has the most delicate of complexions4 ,to accentuate her blondness she should keep her hair as light as possible4 ,she should eat such food as will enrich her golden coloring4 ,she should avoid whatever tends to the accumulation of fat4 ,she should guard against the faded appearance that comes early to most blondes4 ,she should dress to emphasize her golden coloring4 ,while it is true that woman's hair is her crowning glory1 a blonde's hair is her aureole1 her halo of beauty4 ,half the time and attention she gives to her toilet should be given to her hair4 ,the blonde's hair1 as a rule1 has a golden tint4 ,this tint is the keynote of her beauty1 and should be enhanced in every possible way4 ,she may wash her hair as often as she likes with no fear of its fading4 ,the lighter it becomes the better4 ,for her there need be no fear of using carefully those aids in cleansing the hair1 ammonia1 borax or washing soda4 ,each of these1 if used often1 tends to make the hair several shades lighter--but in too large quantities it will make the hair brittle4 ,because it does not matter how light her hair becomes1 the blonde may wash her hair oftener than the brunette does4 ,a shampoo in borax water once or twice a week soon lightens the hair4 ,one tablespoonful of borax in a gallon of water is sufficient4 ,two shampoos a week in water in which ammonia has been sprinkled soon brings about a lightening of the hair4 ,one gallon of water and half a wineglass of ammonia is a good proportion4 ,two shampoos a week in a gallon of warm water with a heaping tablespoonful of washing soda in it is the speediest agent ,i know for lightening the hair1 excepting peroxide1 which some blondes who do not wish to actually bleach their hair use in small proportions in the shampoo4 ,one tablespoonful of peroxide of hydrogen in a gallon of water is the usual proportion4 ,every one expects light hair to be fluffy4 ,fluffiness is the accompaniment of goldenness in hair1 and the observer of beauty is always disappointed if he sees fair hair smooth4 ,smoothness seems to belong rather to dark hair4 ,the blonde should so comb and brush her hair that each hair is distinct and separate from the others4 ,this gives an aureole-like effect to her face1 and wonderfully softens her features4 ,the blonde knows that fair hair is expected to be fluffy4 ,if it isn't she can make it so by drawing it into a loose mass after a shampoo and tying it with a ribbon1 letting it dry thus4 ,if the hair is long it can be tied again by another ribbon close to the ends1 making it curve or wave4 ,the blonde's skin being finer and more delicate has a greater tendency to wrinkle4 ,wrinkles come early to her because her skin is so delicate4 ,it is like rice paper1 forming fine surface wrinkles as well as deeper ones4 ,for this reason her motto should be 8,oil1 oil1 oil40 ,the blonde's complexion is comparable to that of a rose4 ,it has a superb bloom1 but fades early4 ,the withered rose petal is one of the most pathetic sights in nature4 ,it is a danger signal to the blonde1 saying sadly to her1 8,guard well your complexion60 ,the blonde should remember that the dry skin is the forerunner of wrinkles1 and literally keep her skin well oiled4 ,occasionally a blonde1 if stout1 is troubled by a greasy skin4 ,this old cosmetic has corrected that fault3 ,sulphate of zinc1 #b grains2 compound tincture of lavender1 #h minims2 distilled water1 #a ounce4 ,this cream is of the soft sort that is especially adapted to a blonde's delicate complexion3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 ounce2 olive oil1 ounce2 oil of poppies1 ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 spermaceti1 ounce4 ,first melt the white wax over a slow fire1 pour in the other ingredients1 and stir briskly until they cool and reach a cream-like consistency4 ,for a skin that is chronically dry1 ,i recommend the use of almond meal instead of soap4 ,it is not only cleansing1 but injects into the pores the needed oil4 ,i also advise frequent use of this3 ,almond oil1 #b ounces2 extract of ,italian pink1 #ab drops4 ,many blondes when they are young are afflicted with unbecoming flushing of the skin4 ,sunburn and wind roughening are an affliction to the owners of such complexions4 ,for these the compounds containing a generous amount of honey are healing and soothing4 ,the following ,i have always heard recommended as efficacious by many blonde friends3 ,honey1 #a ounce2 almond oil1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a ounce4 ,now and then a complexion rebels against glycerine4 ,this is more liable to be true of blondes1 although ,i recall at this moment six at least who use the following to tone down the redness when their skin has been irritated3 ,camphor water1 #a pint2 glycerine1 ounce2 powdered borax1 ounce4 ,as her skin is more delicate1 so the facial massage should be lighter than that given the brunette4 ,it should indeed be the new massage1 the patting1 the raindrop sort of treatment1 instead of the severe treatment of the old rgime4 ,always with a view to keeping and enhancing the golden tints in hair and skin1 the blonde should be careful to eat such food as will feed the pigment that produces the wheat-like hair and apple blossom skin4 ,i have before spoken of ,mme4 de ,crequy1 the ,french beauty1 who was in many respects a model to the other beauties of the court of ,france4 ,her biographers said that ,mme4 de ,crequy had the loveliest complexion ever granted to woman4 ,they said in the next line that she ate every day thirty oranges and almost nothing else4 ,the orange is the best friend of the complexion among the fruits4 ,it clears the complexion marvelously1 but it has besides the property of holding much of the golden shade in solution4 ,a blonde whom ,i know tried the experiment of eating a half dozen oranges a day and increasing the number to a dozen daily for three months4 ,in that time the change in her coloring was marvelously for the better4 ,her hair1 which had been a shade too pale1 took on the rich yellow of cornsilk4 ,when she had quite convinced herself of the fact that oranges are the food of beauty1 and especially of blonde beauty1 she was advised also to eat many carrots4 ,this she did in connection with the oranges for six months4 ,she ate carrots sliced and stewed in cream4 ,she ate them in soup4 ,she ate them mashed and seasoned slightly with salt and pepper4 ,she even ate them baked4 ,this she began doing in the early summer4 ,by the same time the next year her hair had deepened three shades and was far richer4 ,and her complexion was fresher1 fairer and it harmonized more perfectly with the golden lights in her hair4 ,the blonde1 as a rule1 must fight the tendency to accumulate flesh4 ,the man who first wrote 8fair1 fat and forty0 was observant4 ,he had registered the conclusion that the woman who is fair is at forty more than likely to be fat4 ,and so she is4 ,recognizing this tendency of the placid nature1 which is usually an accompaniment of fair face and hair1 the blonde should begin to combat it at twenty4 ,better at eighteen4 ,she can prevent her waist and hips growing larger by deep massage4 ,the ,japanese women never grow fat4 ,ask them why and they show you how they pinch their hips to crush the tissues and keep the hips flat4 ,your funny ,american dance1 the cakewalk1 is a great hip-reducer4 ,that backward motion1 with the face turned upward and the feet lifted prancingly1 draws the tendons1 solidifies the muscles and makes the limbs compact4 ,to reduce the hips1 with hands on hips bend forward1 swaying the upper body in a half-circle on a horizontal plane4 ,stand erect and try to make the elbows meet in the back4 ,this is an excellent exercise to remove the superfluous fat or to prevent superfluous fat forming upon the back4 ,to make the waist small and pliant stretch the arms high above the head and bend them forward1 describing a quarter circle4 ,to reduce the abdomen1 bend forward until the palms touch the floor4 ,to avoid growing stoutness lie upon the back and raise the body slowly to a sitting posture without bending the knees4 ,these exercises alone1 begun early and persisted in1 will keep back the tide of fat that comes with the years to most blondes4 ,she should guard1 ,i have said1 against the early fading that is the blighting tendency of her type4 ,it is nature's compensation1 a revenge nature seems to work at the behest of the jealous brunettes1 that the blonde who was so exquisite in youth should early lose the delicacy of her skin and the brilliancy of her hair4 ,but some blondes have prevented this early fading1 and what some blondes have done other blondes may do4 ,the cure in this instance is the preventive4 ,the delicate skin that has been well fed will not grow dry and wrinkled early4 ,the blonde who has made carrots and oranges her chief articles of diet for many years1 supplying the iron needed to replenish the rich gold of her hair1 will not early lose the luster of that hair4 ,the blonde's critics say that she should wear gown1 hat1 shoes and gloves to match1 but that she should wear only one color4 ,perhaps this is untrue1 but ,i have noticed that many of them are disposed to heap color upon color upon their costumes4 ,violet and green and mauve and black ,i have seen in one combination4 ,the blonde who wore it looked cheap and common1 and the glory of her hair was dulled by it4 ,had she worn any one of the colors alone1 been a symphony in violet1 in mauve1 in green or in gold1 she would have been ravishing4 ,and the splendor of her hair would have been a glory in burnished gold4 ,but she diffused her color effects by her strange costume4 ,blondes should always dress for their hair4 ,a rude bachelor said that 8blonde0 had come to be a term of contempt because there were so few natural ones4 ,scientists1 too1 say that her type is decadent and will in the course of a few hundred centuries disappear4 ,but the blonde can enjoy herself for many generations before that happens4 ,and she may remember that the blonde races have been the world rulers for many years4 ,the history of the evolution of the blonde shows that her origin was in the north1 but that she emigrated to the south and ruled the brunette natives4 ,science gravely informs us that the blonde flourishes in the moistest climates4 ,this great racial fact may be applied to individual cases4 ,certainly the blonde who wants to cherish her golden hair and fair skin should not turn inland1 but to the seashore4 ,if you are a brunette your glory is your eyes1 your menace is your liver1 your besetting fault is a lack of cheerfulness4 ,as to your eyes first4 ,their color is in itself a guarantee of beauty4 ,there is no shade of brown eyes that is not beautiful1 beginning with the golden brown eyes1 which the novelists delight to describe as tawny but which ,i have named tiger color1 through the red brown shades--that to some imaginative ones suggest cruelty1 to myself the brownish red shades of claret--to the so-called 8black0 eyes1 which are indeed not black1 for there are no genuinely black eyes4 ,place a bit of black velvet beside the darkest eyes you ever saw and note how brown the eyes look beside them4 ,they run the gamut of beauty4 ,brown eyes1 the shade of the tobacco leaf1 ,fierenzuola1 the ,florentine authority on beauty1 said are the loveliest eyes in the world4 ,certainly they are the eyes of sentiment1 and sentiment is accepted even in ,america1 though it has not here the importance in individual and national life that it has in ,europe4 ,i have read somewhere that brown eyes ask for love and get it4 ,the eyes of the brunette should shine starlike out of a creamy white face as stars peep through the breaks in a cloud4 ,the eyes being her glory1 the wise brunette takes the best possible care of them4 ,to care well for them she should care well for their surroundings4 ,eyes are of diminished loveliness indeed if the eyelashes and eyebrows be ill kept4 ,the eyelashes should be thick and soft as silk4 ,they should be long and their loveliness is still greater if they happen to be curly4 ,to keep them in best condition there should be no eyestrain4 ,reading by a bad light1 reading on a moving vehicle1 reading in bed1 looking at too great distances1 or looking too continuously at too bright objects in the sun-light--as at an unshaded lake at high noon or a bit of glass in a high light1 continuing at any task after the muscles of the eyes ache1 cause eyestrain1 and eyestrain causes inflammation of the eye itself1 of the linings of the eyelids and of the rims of the eyelids4 ,whatever inflames the lining of the eyes inflames the edges of the lids1 and from inflamed eyelids the eyelashes fall with alarming swiftness4 ,trimming the ends of the eyelashes once in six weeks ,i find makes them grow longer and thicker4 ,i always have this done by a young person1 because a young person's hand is firmer1 and there must be no trembling of the hand that works in the region of the sensitive eye4 ,use one of the tiny brushes made for eyebrows and eyelashes4 ,use it every morning and evening4 ,brush the eyelashes lightly with a downward stroke to make them long1 upward to make them curly4 ,both serve the chief purpose in the culture of eyelashes1 which is to keep them clean4 ,you are most careful to keep your velvet gown free from dust4 ,be careful also of your eyelashes1 which are more vitally important to your beauty4 ,for bathing the eyes to relieve them of inflammation and so to strengthen the eyelashes use this preparation3 ,distilled water1 #a pint2 cornflowers1 #cj grams4 ,crush the cornflowers in a mortar4 ,steep them in the water for a day--that is1 for twenty-four hours4 ,strain the liquor through a piece of fine cloth1 such as cheesecloth4 ,heat in a porcelain pan over a moderate fire4 ,cool and tightly cork4 ,bathe the eyes night and morning from an eyecup or with an eyedropper4 ,spanish women whose eyelashes have faded often apply this mixture to make them darker3 ,water1 #cjj grams2 sulphate of iron1 #aj grams2 gall nuts1 #ej grams4 ,boil the nuts in the water for a half hour4 ,strain through cheesecloth or muslin4 ,add the sulphate of iron4 ,boil again until the quantity of the liquor is reduced one third4 ,apply at the root of the eyelashes1 being careful not to let any of the mixture touch the eye4 ,the best means of applying it is with a sable pencil4 ,this formula may also be used for the eyebrows4 ,brush the eyebrows night and morning1 training them to a high arch4 ,the expression of the face is more piquant if the eyebrows be high4 ,the brunette1 even more than the blonde1 should develop by every proper means the brilliancy of her eyes1 for while the brunette's chief glory is her eyes1 that of the blonde is her hair4 ,she should1 besides taking all the rest she needs--even more than she needs so that she will be sure to have enough--use many cooling lotions4 ,the boracic acid water which ,i have recommended for the blonde ,i forbid to the brunette1 because it often leaves a sediment which clings to the eyelashes and shows white as hoar frost on the black lashes of the brunette4 ,but for her there is the refreshing eyebath of cool1 weak tea1 or of this1 applied fairly warm3 ,rose water1 #a gill2 witch hazel1 #a gill4 ,if the eyes ache persistently1 retire to a dark room1 lie down and place upon the eyes some cool tea leaves1 secured there by the useful eye bandage or bandalette to which ,i have referred in a previous chapter4 ,if crow's-feet appear prematurely about her eyes she should apply lanolin1 patting it in thoroughly4 ,lanolin is the base of most of the skin foods and has no equal1 to my present knowledge1 as a builder of flesh tissues4 ,the blonde's complexion fades early because her skin is extraordinarily thin and fine4 ,the brunette's1 as a rule1 is the reverse4 ,a fine almond meal is a good substitute for soap for the blonde's complexion4 ,the brunette1 because her skin is thicker1 and has a tendency to an oily appearance1 could to her benefit use once a day a toilet soap made as follows3 ,white castile soap1 #cjj grams2 spermaceti1 #bj grams2 oxgall1 #aj grams2 honey1 #bj grams2 essence of rosemary1 #aj grams2 essential oil of oranges1 #ae grams2 oil of lemon1 #bj grams2 alcohol1 #ae grams2 attar of roses1 #b drops4 ,melt the spermaceti and the shaven soap in a bain marie4 ,add the other ingredients one by one1 mixing thoroughly after each addition4 ,pour into molds4 ,if the brunette finds that the pure1 cold creams contain so much oil and lanolin that they encourage the natural oil in her skin1 she can feed her skin with slighter nourishment1 as for instance some of the cucumber lotions that have from time to time appeared in the articles ,i have written4 ,this can be prepared at home4 ,wash and wipe carefully six large cucumbers2 leave the rind on and cut the cucumber into inch square cubes4 ,fill one saucepan with water1 and into a small one place twelve ounces of almond oil4 ,drop the pieces of cucumber into the oil and heat until they reach the boiling point4 ,when it has reached that point put it at the back of the stove and let it simmer for three or four hours4 ,strain through cheesecloth1 crushing out of the cucumbers as much juice as possible4 ,stir in while it cools four ounces of benzoin4 ,keep the liquid in a jar in a cool place4 ,i had not thought there was a brunette who did not know that when she dabs powder on her face in the evening she should choose not white but ,rachel1 the brunette shade which has a tint of yellow in it4 ,but ,i have seen brunettes go forth to conquest with their face so white as to make them seem ghastly and repulsive4 ,some of my blonde friends in ,paris were washing their hair every other week in light ale4 ,they thought this was a tonic for the scalp1 and that it made the hair light4 ,my brunette friends1 on the contrary1 use diluted claret3 ,claret1 #a pint2 water1 #a pint4 ,they believe that this helps to keep their hair dark4 ,prof4 ,jocquet1 my hair specialist in ,paris--and by the way there is none better anywhere--cleansed my scalp last summer in lemon juice4 ,juice of two lemons2 almond oil1 #e drops4 ,it is ,prof4 ,jocquet's interesting theory that oil applied directly to the scalp causes the pores to open and disgorge the hairs4 ,the brunette should look1 for a model for her hair1 to the luster of black satin4 ,it seems to be the scheme of nature that the brunette should have straight1 shiny hair1 as it is that the blonde should have crisp1 curling hair4 ,often individuals stray from this plan1 but there is no doubt that the plan exists4 ,i have said that the menace to her brunette beauty is the liver4 ,i repeat it4 ,in the brunette there is always1 as an accompaniment of dark pigment1 a torpidly inclined liver4 ,that lazy liver1 if permitted1 will make her complexion muddy1 her eyes dull1 her movements sluggish4 ,she must stir up this languid organ1 make it perform its functions4 ,as the blonde must fear an excess of fat1 so the brunette has reason to fear an excess of bile4 ,she should eat such juicy1 acid fruit1 as cherries1 strawberries and grapes1 and in the water she drinks it is well to add the juice of half a lemon to every glass of water4 ,the brunette should regard the lemon as her friend4 ,it is a tonic for her stomach and her scalp4 ,half a lemon rubbed well upon the scalp cleanses it4 ,her temperamental tendency is toward 8the blues40 ,a blonde is more sanguine than a brunette4 ,the brunette will correct her brown view of life by the same exercise and diet that goads the liver into activity4 ,,chapter ,,xxi ,,sure ,,aids ,,to ,,beauty ,to give all the beauty recipes ,i have tested and can personally recommend would require three or four volumes as large as this4 ,there are many helpful ones which ,i have been unable to find room for in the chapters where they rightly belong4 ,so ,i am going to group here in this last chapter a number of 8,sure ,aids to ,beauty0 which ,i feel confident every sensible woman will be glad to know4 ,among the recipes and bits of advice which ,i can least afford to miss the opportunity of passing on to other women are many which have to do with the hair4 ,the woman who wants to wear her hair parted1 but finds this manner unbecoming because the roots of the hair are darker than the ends1 will welcome this treatment3 ,shampoo at least once a week4 ,use the juice of two lemons in a quart of water for the shampoo4 ,occasionally substitute for the lemon juice a tablespoonful of ammonia4 ,rub this well into the roots when washing the hair4 ,the best way to make dead brown hair rich and glossy is to upbuild one's general health4 ,the hair and teeth are fairly safe barometers of the vitality4 ,abundant1 glossy hair is usually the index of perfect health4 ,take the tonics of plenty of fresh air1 of exercise out of doors1 of simple1 nourishing food1 and your hair will share your vigor4 ,much brushing should make it more lustrous4 ,to darken it some brunettes wash it in this3 ,claret1 #a quart2 sulphate of iron1 ounce4 ,no one could ask for a more satisfactory shampoo than the following3 ,water1 one cupful2 one egg2 tincture of green soap1 #a teaspoonful2 cologne1 #a teaspoonful4 ,mix thoroughly and rub well into the scalp4 ,a simple and harmless hair dye that has been vouched for by honest folk is the water in which potato parings have been boiled4 ,walnut stain1 prepared in the same way1 is uninjurious4 ,experiment until you have secured the right shade4 ,but ,i would advise stimulating the hair by massaging the scalp every day and by vigorous brushing4 ,to get rid of dandruff without making your hair either oily or dry1 first give the scalp frequent shampoos4 ,every other day1 or even daily1 is not too often1 for a week or two1 if the case be an obstinate one4 ,after shampooing and on other nights rub carefully into the scalp a tablespoonful or more of the following3 ,bay rum1 #b ounces2 olive oil1 ounce2 tincture of cantharides1 ounce4 ,sometimes after a serious illness like typhoid fever one's scalp becomes very dry4 ,for such a condition massage well into the roots every morning and evening the following3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #de grams2 essence of rosemary1 #de grams2 oil of mace1 #b grams4 ,brown hair that is becoming streaked with gray may be darkened with henna water4 ,one handful of henna to a quart of water is the right proportion4 ,boil down until there is only a pint of liquid4 ,the best method of shampooing the hair is1 in my opinion1 to rub two or three handfuls1 or as much as is needed1 through the hair and upon the scalp4 ,draw the long ends of the hair together to the top of the scalp and lather well about the neck4 ,massage the hair well with the soap4 ,then pour upon the head pitcher after pitcher of warm water1 or play upon it with the bath spray4 ,gradually reduce the temperature of the water until it is cool1 though never cold4 ,cold water causes a shock to the scalp that is detrimental to the nerves4 ,i have told of the simplest shampoo ,i know4 ,for brunettes who wish to preserve the glossy duskiness of their hair1 this is beneficial3 ,rum or red wine1 #a wineglassful2 yolk of one egg4 ,there is no arbitrary usage in the matter of singeing the ends of the hair4 ,when the ends are split singe them4 ,there is no need at any other time4 ,but ,i have noticed that the need is liable to occur in my hair about once in two months4 ,the singeing should always precede the shampoo1 for the odor of burnt hair is not a desirable fragrance4 ,one word more concerning the hair4 ,be scrupulous about your brushes4 ,if necessary dip them into a bowlful of lather made of white castile soap every day after the morning brushing4 ,a half dozen drops of ammonia in the water will help to cleanse them4 ,rinse them thoroughly1 so that no particle of the soap remains4 ,i have said that the scalp must be kept cool4 ,brushing helps to preserve this condition4 ,i have known girls1 who came home tired after a day at business1 to wrap a few bits of ice in a towel and place it upon the flushed and burning scalp1 feverish from a day of intense mental activity4 ,this soon cools the scalp1 relieves the congestion in the head and sends the blood dashing back toward other centers4 ,massage also relieves the congestion4 ,avoid a dry scalp as much as you do a hot one4 ,indeed1 the dryness is the effect of the heat4 ,this can be corrected by massage4 ,lotions containing oil are many4 ,if the triweekly massage fails to release the oil from the sebaceous glands there may be a few applications of this3 ,castor oil1 #b ounces2 alcohol 7#ie per cent471 #a pints2 oil of bergamot1 #aj drops4 ,if you insist on using a dye to hide the approaching gray hairs1 ,i recommend the time-honored walnut stain1 made as follows3 ,walnut bark1 #a ounce2 alum1 ounce2 water1 #a pint4 ,boil the bark in the water for an hour4 ,add the alum to 8set0 the color4 ,apply the liquid with a sponge or bit of cotton4 ,wrap an old veil about the head or wear a night cap after the application1 on retiring1 else the stain will perform its functions on the bed linen as well as your hair4 ,i would much rather recommend your massaging the scalp vigorously and using one of these applications to retard the appearance of gray hair1 for ,i believe in tonics1 but not in hair dyes3 ,bay rum1 #b ounces2 sulphur1 1 ounce4 ,wash the hair and the roots in the liquid4 ,sulphur is a well known agent in retarding grayness of hair4 ,brown hair that is fading into gray is freshened by this wash3 ,claret1 #c ounces2 sulphate of iron1 dram4 ,let the iron dissolve thoroughly in the wine4 ,wash the hair as frequently as necessary in it4 ,persian women who want black hair apply a paste of henna to the hair1 leaving it on a half hour or more4 ,they then wash this off and apply a paste of indigo1 leaving it on at least three times as long4 ,when this is washed off they oil the hair1 usually with perfumed olive oil4 ,a simpler method is to mix three parts of indigo with one part of henna1 adding enough water to make a paste4 ,the longer it is on the hair the darker it grows4 ,camphorated chalk is cleansing for the teeth and tonic for the gums1 but ,i do not advise using it too often4 ,once a day1 and that at night1 is often enough to use tooth powder1 for there are few powders that do not more or less wear the surface of the enamel1 as constant grinding wears away what is much harder than teeth1 a stone4 ,powders are objectionable in one respect4 ,if strong1 they cause the lips to pucker and dry unbecomingly4 ,instead of using powder so often1 rinse the mouth often with strong salt water1 especially after a meal1 and brush the teeth with a brush dipped into salt water1 or with water in which a pinch of bicarbonate of soda has been dissolved4 ,when the teeth are in fairly good condition this simple powder is sufficient3 ,precipitated chalk1 #e ounces2 powdered orris root1 #c ounces2 camphor gum1 #a ounce4 ,this is a tonic to teeth and gums3 ,magnesia1 #b ounces2 powdered orris root1 #a ounce2 bicarbonate of soda1 ounce2 ground cloves1 #e drams2 green anise seed powder1 #e drams2 powdered charcoal1 #d drams4 ,this is one of the strongest of tooth powders and should be used only occasionally and in extreme cases3 ,precipitate of chalk1 #c ounces2 crushed cuttle fish bone1 #c ounces2 powdered orris root1 #b ounces2 myrrh1 #b ounces2 burnt hartshorn1 #b ounces4 ,this is a remedy for receding gums1 and for those that are sensitive and addicted to bleeding3 ,sugar of milk1 #c ounces2 tannic acid1 #c drams2 red lake1 #a dram2 oil of anise seed1 #h drops2 oil of mint1 #h drops2 oil of neroli1 #e drops4 ,salt water1 strong and warm1 is an excellent mouth bath4 ,so is bicarbonate of soda in a one part to three solution4 ,this is the famous ,eau de ,botot3 ,alcohol1 #a quarts2 anise seed1 #ajj grams2 ground cinnamon1 #ce grams2 ground cloves1 #cb grams2 essence of mint1 #bj grams2 cochineal1 #aj grams2 quinquina1 #aj grams4 ,this is a mouth wash easily prepared at home3 ,water 7filtered if possible71 #a quart2 alcohol1 #a pint2 salicylic acid1 #g drams2 oil of peppermint1 #ae grains2 orange flower water1 #ae grains4 ,this myrrh lotion is one of the best for the mouth3 ,orange flower water1 #e ounces2 tincture of myrrh1 #c grams2 pulverized gum arabic1 #b drams2 pulverized gum mastic1 #b drams2 balsam of ,peru1 dram4 ,a red spot on the white of the eye is a sign of inflammation and that indicates some strain of the eye4 ,first remove the strain4 ,give the eyes all the rest possible4 ,sleep more than usual4 ,give up sewing and reading for a time4 ,take a midday nap if you can4 ,if not close the eyes as often as circumstances will permit for a few seconds at a time4 ,keep them closed while on a train4 ,study how to get the best light you can on your task4 ,avoid the direct light upon the eye4 ,bathe the eyes with an eyecup in a mixture of boric acid1 #a ounce2 rose water1 #f ounces4 ,keep cool bandages as cold tea leaves or finely cracked ice on the eyes4 ,rest1 rest1 rest1 the eyes4 ,if a few weeks of this care does not clear the spot from the eye consult an oculist for the trouble may be a deepseated one4 ,you cannot change the color of your eyes1 but you can accentuate their color by taking especial care of your eyebrows and eyelashes1 so that they will grow longer and thicker and lend their shadows to the eyes4 ,brush them every night and morning with an eyebrow brush to keep them free from dust4 ,the brush may be dipped into lanolin at night4 ,there will be plenty of time for the lanolin to be absorbed by the skin during the night4 ,since ,i advise against hair dyes ,i can not conscientiously advocate dyeing the eyebrows and eyelashes4 ,to massage lanolin into the eyebrows and touch the edges of the eyelids with the same may in time cause the growth of new hair4 ,as it comes in it may be a trifle darker4 ,that is the only experiment ,i advise4 ,eyebrows that look uneven and 8scraggly0 should be treated every night with an eyebrow brush dipped in this mixture3 ,olive oil1 #a ounce2 tincture of cantharides1 dram2 oil of nutmeg1 ounce2 oil of rosemary1 ounce4 ,if by any accident the lids have become granular1 as may have chanced to be the result of excessive golf1 or excessive automobiling1 the wholesome girl does not permit the disorder to grow4 ,she knows that rest is to some extent corrective of the evil4 ,if this does not quickly remove it ,i advise seeing a physician at once4 ,i cannot conscientiously recommend any lotion for a disorder so serious and disfiguring4 ,a physician's advice is necessary4 ,for heavy1 flabby1 soft eyelids1 which will wrinkle early into a prematurely aged appearance1 the wholesome girl seeks first the extra sleep and rest that are the greatest tissue repairers4 ,to gently assist nature in the work of rejuvenation she may resort to this ointment3 ,fresh lard1 #aej grains2 sulphate of potash of aluminum1 #be grains2 tannin1 #aj grains2 borax1 #bj grains4 ,if her eyes be inflamed and extra amount of rest does not banish the unlovely condition she may supplement the rest with this applied--from three to five drops--by an eye-dropper3 ,distilled water1 #ej grams2 quince seed mucilage1 #e grams2 water of cherry laurel1 #c grams2 borax1 gram4 ,this is recommended to be used with three times the quantity of water by the famous ,dr4 ,vaucaire4 ,another ,french remedy is this compound3 ,distilled water1 #a pint2 sulphate of zinc1 #aj centigrams2 orris root powder1 #a gram4 ,if on awakening in the morning the wholesome girl1 who is also an intelligent girl1 finds that her eyelashes are encrusted by secretions from the eyes1 she will first soften those encrustations by rosewater1 if that be available4 ,if not1 by warm1 strong salt water1 or by equal parts of witch hazel and water4 ,there are many ointments recommended for such purposes4 ,this is by ,dr4 ,vaucaire1 an acknowledged authority on the care of beauty4 ,it should be applied after the lids and lashes have been washed in warm water4 ,never attempt to remove the encrustations while dry or the lashes will come with them3 ,oxide of zinc1 #aj centigrams2 oil of sweet almonds1 #ajj centigrams2 subacetate of lead1 #aj centigrams2 vaseline1 #aj grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #ab drops4 ,while ,dr4 ,vaucaire prescribed this ointment he preferred to administer it himself1 and he advised the greatest caution about the application of it lest some part of it get into the eyes4 ,in this1 as in other formul of this nature1 ,i urge my readers to have the compounds prepared by the best pharmacists4 ,the eyebrows may be made thicker by massaging them every night with finger tips that have been dipped into lanolin4 ,it promotes their growth to brush them daily with an eyebrow brush4 ,this removes the dust that collects about and chokes the roots of the hair4 ,the growth of eyelashes is stimulated by brushing them daily with an eyebrow brush dipped into lanolin4 ,keep the eyes cool and clean by washing them morning and evening in an eye-cup filled with a mild solution of boracic acid1 a teaspoonful of the pulverized boracic acid to a pint of water4 ,pour the boiling water over the acid and strain it4 ,to make the eyelashes grow dip a soft brush or cloth into lanolin and touch the edges of the lids with it4 ,repeat this every night before retiring4 ,i am opposed to face steaming1 except as a last resort1 when the pores are deeply clogged with dust4 ,the evils of face steaming are two4 ,it causes the skin to relax1 stretch and become flabby and eventually to form wrinkles4 ,and it so relaxes the pores that some of them refuse to draw together again1 leaving unsightly holes in the face4 ,apply with a piece of medicated gauze the following3 ,camphor water1 pint2 glycerine1 ounce2 borax1 ounce4 ,for a face that is beginning to look heavy ,i advise exercise out of doors and abstinence from rich foods4 ,a chin band of rubber or of strong muslin worn at night will help to support the muscles1 also prevent one of the habits which produce sagging cheek muscles4 ,form the habit of holding your head high1 with chin a little uptilted4 ,the application of cloths wet in cold water makes the muscles firmer4 ,many pat the face with ice4 ,others pass the ice over it with long upward strokes from chin to forehead4 ,the ice should be wrapped in cotton or in a piece of muslin4 ,a red nose is caused usually by excessive use of alcohol or by some form of indigestion or imperfect circulation4 ,loosening your clothing wherever it is tight1 whether it be in collars1 garters1 belts1 gloves or shoes4 ,eat plain foods1 little meat and many vegetables and salads and much fruit4 ,drink water very freely4 ,you can often improve the shape of an ugly nose by gently pulling it1 beginning at the bridge1 between the eyes1 and pressing the cushions of the thumb and first finger against the sides of the nose and drawing them slowly1 gently1 but with firm pressure1 to the tip4 ,dip a soft complexion brush into green soap1 which you probably know is a liquid1 and scrub the parts affected by blackheads4 ,the more obstinate of them may have to be pressed gently out with the fingers or a comedone extractor4 ,afterward apply cold cream to heal the skin irritated by the treatment4 ,for an oily nose try dusting it with this powder3 ,bicarbonate of soda1 #b ounces2 pulverized orris root1 #a ounce2 pulverized spermaceti1 #a dram4 ,mix thoroughly and keep in a dry place4 ,a sparing diet chiefly of fruit and liquids and copious water drinking should soon clear the complexion4 ,alternate applications of hot and cold cloths to the skin help to clear it4 ,a pinch of iodide of lime in a glass of water1 in daily doses1 for a week1 will aid in the body cleansing which is necessary to banish the tendency to boils4 ,a few ,turkish baths will aid the work4 ,for blackheads ,i sometimes recommend scrubbing the affected parts with green soap1 using a complexion brush4 ,when they have been softened1 pressing out the blackheads with the side of a needle that has been sterilized by passing it through a flame or through boiling water1 is the best and simplest means4 ,after pressing out the blackheads place cold cream on the affected parts to heal the irritation4 ,i have known double chins to be removed by bandaging them persistently in cloths wet in witchhazel1 which is an astringent4 ,also press the muscles upward from the side of the face1 using all the strength you can coax into your hands4 ,cocoa butter in itself does not cause the growth of hair1 but friction of rubbing any cream into the skin may cause the growth of hair if one is inclined to such growth4 ,lemon juice should remove tan4 ,it is too strong to use undiluted on the face4 ,use an equal quantity of water or of rose water with it4 ,this is a good lotion for decreasing the size of open pores1 also for checking the greasiness of the face3 ,rose water1 #c ounces2 elder flower water1 #a ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce2 tannic acid1 #e grains4 ,all save oily faces are improved by the use of cold cream4 ,but ,i know no reason for using a cloth in applying it4 ,the cloth wastes the cream1 and using it will probably cause the face to wrinkle4 ,pat the cold cream into the face with your palms or the cushions of your fingers4 ,there is no unfailing remedy for superfluous hair on the face1 for even electrolysis sometimes fails4 ,try various remedies until the hair is killed4 ,tweezers often remove the hair permanently4 ,try them first1 pulling each hair out gently1 being sure first to sterilize the tweezers by passing them through a flame or dipping them into boiling water4 ,after removing the hairs bathe the skin with witchhazel or pat into it a soothing cold cream4 ,washing the skin repeatedly with equal parts of peroxide of hydrogen and water weakens the hairs1 as well as bleaches them1 so that they will be far less conspicuous than if dark4 ,i advise no woman to undertake increasing the size of the bust without first consulting her physician4 ,if he thinks it wise apply with muslin cloths to the breast this lotion3 ,lanolin1 #ej grams2 vaseline1 #ej grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #bj drops2 iodide of potassium1 #c grams4 ,here is an excellent remedy for an oily skin1 especially on the nose1 where such a condition often enlarges the pores4 ,it is a drying lotion which tends to draw the pores together and is made like this3 ,rose water1 #f ounces2 elderflower water1 #b ounces2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce2 tannic acid1 #aj grains4 ,only extreme measures will relieve an aggravated case of blackheads or acne4 ,with a flesh brush dipped into a lather made of warm water and white castile soap1 rub the afflicted part of the face vigorously4 ,if the ugly black specks have not then become loosened it will be necessary to steam them4 ,fill a bowl with hot water1 press the face into the bowl1 just avoiding touching the face with the water1 and cover the head and bowl with a large thick towel1 so that the steam will not escape4 ,this should be done for from ten to twenty minutes4 ,when this bath is finished the acne will be so loosened that it will be possible to press the blackheads out bit by bit1 using a sterilized needle4 ,afterward massage the part of the face treated with pure cold cream4 ,a famous ,french skin specialist recommends for acne3 ,salicylic acid1 #ej grams2 pure lard1 #ej grams4 ,women who fear to apply to their faces anything which might grow hair may safely use the following cold cream3 ,almond oil1 #b ounces2 rose water1 #d ounces2 spermaceti1 ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 #b drams2 elderflower water1 #aj drops4 ,cocoanut oil is a good substitute for the more expensive cold creams4 ,it both cleanses and feeds the skin4 ,but be sure the oil you buy is absolutely pure4 ,unsightly1 bristle-like hairs on the chin can often be removed by massaging the skin around them with cold cream or with olive oil4 ,then sterilize a pair of tweezers by holding them in boiling water or dipping them into peroxide of hydrogen1 and pull out the hairs one by one with short1 sharp jerks4 ,bathe the skin from which they have been removed with peroxide or some healing lotion and anoint it with cold cream to relieve the irritation4 ,if the flesh about your nails breaks and tears it is because you have permitted it to get too hard4 ,press it back from the nails after washing the hands4 ,meanwhile1 rub cold cream into the skin at the base of the nails before retiring2 or soak them in a bowl of olive oil daily until they become soft4 ,for a scalp wash for summer ,i know nothing better nor more grateful than this3 ,steep a pound of rosemary twigs in boiling water4 ,let them remain in the water for twelve hours4 ,strain the liquor and add to it half an ounce of ,jamaica rum4 ,this1 my favorite hair tonic1 has the approval of experts in this country and in ,europe3 ,sulphate of quinine1 #cj grains2 tincture of cantharides1 #a ounce2 glycerine1 #a ounce2 powdered borax1 #ae grains2 alcohol1 #b pints2 water1 #b pints4 ,dissolve the quinine in alcohol and the borax in water4 ,add the other ingredients4 ,allow the mixture to stand for one week4 ,then filter through paper4 ,in summer when too ardent attention from the sun makes your skin coarse try wearing at night a face mask coated with this honey paste3 ,ground barley1 #c ounces2 honey1 #a ounce2 white of one egg4 ,wash off in the morning with tepid rose water4 ,disfiguring blotches sometimes appear on the forehead without any apparent cause4 ,i have known them to be removed by applying the following mixture with a tiny camel's hair brush3 ,glycerine1 ounce2 rosemary water1 #a ounce2 carbolic acid1 #aj drops4 ,for a bust that is not firm1 this preparation is sold in ,france3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #ajj grams2 white wax1 #ej grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #be grains2 rosewater1 #be grams2 pulverized tannin1 #ae grams4 ,for enlarging an undeveloped or atrophied bust1 ,dr4 ,vaucaire recommends a flesh-making diet4 ,he forbids the application of any pastes or lotions to the meager breasts1 but prescribes this internal remedy3 ,liquid extract of galega 7goat's rue71 #aj grams2 laco phosphate of lime1 #aj grams2 tincture of fennel1 #aj grams2 simple syrup1 #djj grams4 ,he advises two soupspoonfuls in water before each meal4 ,the drinking of malt extracts is recommended by some specialists4 ,personally1 ,i advise all exercises that develop the chest for this purpose4 ,one of the best is called 8ceiling gazing40 ,with the head bent as far back as possible1 stare steadily at the ceiling1 breathing deeply while counting for each inhalation ten1 for each holding of the air in the lungs ten1 and for each exhalation ten4 ,bathing the face with a mild solution of borax and water will help dry any superfluous oil4 ,relief for this unpleasant condition will also be found in this lotion3 ,sulphate of zinc1 #b grains2 distilled water1 #a ounce2 compound tincture of lavender1 #h minims4 ,this or the lotion which follows should be applied after bathing the face1 and two or three times a day as convenient3 ,camphor water1 #a pint2 pure glycerine1 ounce2 borax1 ounce4 ,either cologne1 alcohol1 glycerine and water or tincture of benzoin is a good astringent for aiding in the reduction of a double chin4 ,or you might try for the same trouble the following3 ,vaseline1 #ajj grams2 lanolin1 #ajj grams2 iodide of potassium1 #f grams2 tincture of benzoin1 #a ounce4 ,i advise feeding arms that are too thin with olive oil or cocoa butter4 ,both of these are fattening agents4 ,patience and thorough daily applications of one of these will greatly improve the thin arms4 ,but the patient should try exercise also4 ,holding the arms straight out at the sides and moving them round and round in a circle is a good arm developer4 ,any of the following creams are excellent for massage purposes3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 #ejj grams2 spermaceti1 #ejj grams2 white wax1 #ajj grams2 rosewater1 #ej grams4 ,this is especially good for the neck1 hands and arms which are to be uncovered that night3 ,glycerine1 #a ounce2 rosewater1 #a ounce2 oxide of zinc1 #a ounce4 ,the old-fashioned ,nadine cream has a strong claim upon many beauties of many nations4 ,it is made this way3 ,lanolin1 #d ounces2 cocoa butter1 #d ounces2 glycerine1 #d ounces2 elderflower water1 #c ounces2 rosewater1 #e ounces4 ,this1 valuable for its whitening as well as softening effect1 is of ,english origin3 ,milk of white almonds1 #c ounces2 strained honey1 #b ounces2 cold cream1 #d ounces2 orange flower water1 #e ounces4 ,from ,england1 too1 comes this recipe1 which has been adopted in slightly modified form by ,france3 ,essence of cucumber1 #b ounces2 juice of cucumbers1 #b ounces2 spermaceti1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a ounce2 olive oil1 #a ounce2 almond oil1 #a ounce4 ,this is a well-known and valuable massage cream3 ,expressed oil of almonds1 #i fluid ounces2 rose water1 #c fluid ounces2 fine sodium borate1 #cc grains2 spermaceti1 #a ounce avoirdupois1 #djj grains2 white wax1 #a ounce avoirdupois1 #cgj grains4 ,for making the limbs plump enough to correspond with a well developed body two methods are practicable4 ,one is to rub olive oil into the skin every night before retiring4 ,or1 if you prefer1 a cold cream4 ,developing exercises that will enlarge the muscles are1 for the arms1 twirling them in large circles at the sides and holding them straight from the shoulders4 ,for enlarging the muscles of the legs a similar exercise from the hips1 swinging the leg in large1 free circles1 is valuable4 ,i am often asked if powder injures the skin4 ,pure rice powder can do no harm if removed at night with cold cream4 ,washing the face with water does not so effectually remove powder4 ,take the powder off with cold cream1 which mixes better with it4 ,then cleanse the face with warm water and almond meal or oatmeal1 or if you prefer it1 with soap4 ,paris physicians1 also those of the ,russian court1 have withdrawn their objections to perfumes1 and luxurious women are using them more than ever4 ,they are more discreet and discriminating than formerly1 relying more upon perfumes used after the bath1 when they can be well absorbed into the skin1 and causing them to remain longer than by a hit-or-miss application of them upon the hair or clothing4 ,this1 borrowed from ,england1 is a delightful tonic applied to the skin after the bath3 ,rosemary1 #f ounces2 orange peel ground into fine powder1 ounce2 thyme1 ounce2 rosewater1 #a pint2 spirit of wine1 #a quart4 ,bath bags filled with equal parts of orris root powder and almond meal and bran are tossed into the baths instead of soap1 and are more refreshing and quite as whitening4 ,an anmic friend finds her tepid bath much more refreshing by adding to it a wine glass of this3 ,eau de cologne1 #a ounce2 spirits of camphor1 ounce2 tincture of benzoin1 ounce4 ,this is a new compound for the bath which ,i have used for my refreshment when fatigued from travel3 ,bromide of potassium1 #a gram2 carbonate of calcium1 #a gram2 carbonate of soda1 #cjj grams2 sulphate of soda1 #e grams2 sulphate of iron1 #c grams2 sulphate of aluminum1 #a gram2 perfume to taste1 either oil of lavender1 oil of thyme1 oil of rosemary1 #a gram2 tincture of stavisacre1 #ej grams4 ,an anmic condition is not always the cause of the lips having a blue1 parched appearance4 ,sometimes the cold weather will make them look so4 ,anoint them morning and night and before going out of doors with this solution3 ,honey1 #a ounce2 eau de cologne1 ounce4 ,or with this salve3 ,olive oil1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a dram4 ,a good salve for freshening chapped lips is3 ,spermaceti1 ounce2 oil of sweet almonds1 #a ounce2 white wax1 ounce2 cochineal1 #a drop2 oil of roses1 #f drops4 ,good for the same purpose is this3 ,olive oil1 #e drams2 white wax1 #e drams2 alkanet chips1 dram4 ,habits that mar beauty are as the little foxes that destroy the vines4 ,they are many and small and mischievous4 ,i mention some of them warningly for careless beauties1 as signposts point the way on country roads3 ,don't eat too much4 ,don't chew the lips4 ,don't bite the nails4 ,don't sit on your foot4 ,don't eat many sweets4 ,don't read in a dim light4 ,don't bathe in a cold room4 ,don't neglect a daily outing4 ,don't read or write facing a light4 ,don't sleep in ill-ventilated rooms4 ,don't read when the eyes are tired4 ,don't read or write on a moving train4 ,don't open the eyes upon a bright light4 ,don't stand with the shoulders forward4 ,don't stand with the abdomen thrust out4 ,don't let your hands or feet remain cold4 ,don't make faces when you talk or listen4 ,don't drink much wine4 ,the less the better4 ,don't neglect to bathe your feet every night4 ,don't sit on the last three bones of your spine4 ,don't be afraid to yawn or stretch when alone4 ,don't thrust the hips far backward as you walk4 ,don't sit with one shoulder higher than the other4 ,don't stand with one hip higher than the other4 ,don't fail to sleep as many hours as you require4 ,don't wear too light weight clothing in winter4 ,don't sleep in a room crowded with draperies and rugs4 ,don't forget to visit your dentist once every three months4 ,don't let the chin bury itself in the neck4 ,keep it high4 ,don't wear tight shoes or tight gloves or tight corsets4 ,don't brush or comb the hair roughly4 ,the scalp is tender4 ,don't go into the outer air directly after washing the face4 ,don't be afraid of rain or snow4 ,they are tonics and beautifiers4 ,don't be discontented4 ,discontent engraves ugly lines in the face4 ,don't fall asleep with the features drawn in anger1 worry or fatigue4 ,don't forget that the warm bath is a sedative2 the cool bath a stimulant4 ,don't use every new cosmetic you see advertised or hear recommended4 ,don't wear clothing so heavy that its weight drags upon the vital organs4 ,don't dwell upon unpleasant things4 ,dismiss them if you value your beauty4 ,don't allow the skin to grow dry4 ,a dry skin is the parent of many wrinkles4 ,don't rest upon large pillows4 ,they cause round shoulders and double chins4 ,don't lie down for rest with your nerves and muscles tied in small1 hard knots4 ,don't forget that the reclining posture is a storehouse of strength and beauty4 ,don't let the muscles grow flabby4 ,firm muscles give the appearance of youth4 ,don't lead a too regular life4 ,a varied programme is better than an unvarying one4 ,don't keep your rooms either too hot or cold1 but at an even1 moderate temperature4 ,don't be afraid to work1 and to work hard4 ,it is only worry mingled with work that kills4 ,don't allow yourself to become ill4 ,every illness subtracts from vitality and adds to apparent age4 ,don't think that when you have brushed your hair your duty to your head is done4 ,the scalp must be massaged4 ,don't wriggle the feet or fingers or hunch the shoulders4 ,find other and less ugly outlets for your nervous energy4 ,don't moisten the lips with the tongue to make them red4 ,it will only cause them to roughen and chap4 ,don't forget that the eye bath1 the nasal douche and the mouth bath are part of the daily ceremonial of cleanliness4 ,don't forget for one moment that health is the basis of beauty4 ,and build your beauty upon that only sure foundation4 ,don't neglect the protection for your skin when you go out or the care for it when you come in from out of doors4 ,don't think that to keep the teeth beautiful they must be continually brushed4 ,after the daily brushing remember the mouth bath4 ,don't think you are ever too tired for the night toilet4 ,the face must always be washed and cold creamed at night if you value your complexion4 ,don't1 especially if you are slenderly built1 permit the shoulders and chest to sink4 ,if you are too tired to hold them up take a nap1 or at least recline for a time4 ,,chapter ,,xxii ,,the ,,beauty',s ,,personality ,,and ,,her ,,clothes ,have you ever seen a jeweler at work making a gem as fine and handsome as he can or as the nature of the jewel will permit8 ,that is what you must do for yourself4 ,polish your personality4 ,the jeweler makes the jewel shine with all its possible luster4 ,that is what every woman should do for the gem which is herself4 ,the jeweler holds the gem to the light to see what is its best angle and sets it so that that angle is prominent4 ,so should a woman do with her best feature4 ,study yourself in silhouette4 ,place yourself before a mirror so that you can see yourself as one would see you who hurriedly brushed past you in the street4 ,see yourself sidewise4 ,if you see that you have a good profile and that the lines of your figure are graceful1 keep your side to the world1 so to speak4 ,remember that this is your best line and live up to it4 ,dress your hair so it will enhance the profile1 making it cameo like4 ,if you discover a style of dressing your hair that is becoming to you1 and that makes that profile stand out in finer relief1 never mind whether it is the fashion of to-day or of ten years ago4 ,its beauty will be its excuse and will make it the fashion for you4 ,so in your gowning4 ,if your figure has a better silhouette when draped in full gathered and shirred effects follow them4 ,if1 as is liable to be true if you have a full figure1 flat folds and tucks and bands are more becoming1 make abundant use of them4 ,learn dressmaking yourself1 if your means are limited1 and learn to apply your own principles of dressing4 ,make yourself individual4 ,it costs but little to dress well if you can make your own clothes4 ,if you find that your front view is better1 face the world1 as it were1 instead of turning your side to it4 ,i have heard of some women1 8,her hair grows prettily40 ,when ,i have scrutinized their faces ,i have found that what was meant by the phrase was that it grew in odd1 attractive little ripples or scallops about the face4 ,yet ,i have seen the same women brushing their hair flat and pressing it back in a hard1 straight line from their faces4 ,these human jewelers were neglecting one of the best angles of their personality4 ,i have seen women whose rich1 thick hair was their greatest charm draw back the hair from their faces and twist it up in a hard little knot4 ,i wanted to cry out against this thoughtlessness4 ,i once overheard a pair talking while in the first stages of love-making on board a transatlantic steamer4 ,the man said1 8,you have beautiful eyes1 but you don't know how to use them40 ,the next day as ,i saw her while on a deck promenade ,i saw that he was right4 ,she half covered them with heavy1 lazy looking lids4 ,when she looked at any one with them she looked with a slow1 steady regard and without a smile in them4 ,if ,i had had eyes like that ,i should have been most industrious with them4 ,i would have opened them very wide1 very often every day4 ,it would have illuminated conversation1 and promoted mutual understanding4 ,and ,i would have taught them the pleasant trick of smiling4 ,i know a woman of whom it has often been said3 8,she is handsome when she smiles1 but she hardly ever smiles10 and this should have been enough of a tip1 as you say in ,america4 ,yet it wasn't4 ,whenever ,i saw her her lips drooped4 ,her cheeks muscles relaxed4 ,if anything startled her out of herself she smiled1 quickly1 roguishly1 with a flash of intelligence and good humor that was entrancing4 ,her smile transformed her from a plain1 dejected looking woman to a radiant1 attractive one ten years younger in appearance than she had looked a second before4 ,if she had polished her personality she would be always living up to that smile4 ,i know another woman1 more intelligent1 though younger4 ,she has lovely1 red-gold hair4 ,at a time when it was fashionable to wear hats that come low upon the face1 completely hiding the hair1 ,i said to her3 8,and do you hide your beautiful hair beneath the foolish fashions80 8,no10 she answered4 8,somehow1 ,i always manage to show some of it4 ,perhaps ,i draw it back from the forehead a little more than the fashion requires4 ,or1 ,i may tilt it a little more to the side than is necessary4 ,but ,i always show my hair40 ,polishing her personality1 you see4 ,if a woman has a beautiful mouth she should be at more pains than another to massage the lips to keep them full and moist4 ,she should massage the gums to keep them strong and red4 ,and of her teeth she should take infinite care4 ,such a woman should smile and smile again1 for fine teeth and a fresh1 sweet mouth are always attractive4 ,if she has a classic chin and a fine throat she should keep the chin well up to reveal the line from chin to chest4 ,if her hands are pretty she should wear her sleeves short enough to display them4 ,if her hands are shapely and tapering she should wear her sleeves still shorter4 ,if the lines of her throat and shoulder are good she should form the ,dutch collar and low necked habit4 ,if her figure is good she should emphasize that within the limits of modesty4 ,in short make radiant your personality4 ,discover your best points and keep1 preserve and accent them4 ,to use your plain ,americanism3 8,keep your best foot forward40 ,fashions change1 but taste endures4 ,fashions come and go1 but becomingness is a fixed quantity4 ,the woman who is wise in her own beauty will make this her creed4 ,she will determine after much observation of herself what is becoming to her and what is not1 never to cross the danger line between4 ,she will not aggressively defy fashion4 ,she will adopt its becoming modes1 and adapt its unbecoming ones to the point only of becomingness4 ,but she will resolutely determine that she will wear nothing that will detract from her beauty4 ,in the matter of dress1 ,i have the courage of my convictions4 ,i will not wear that which ,i believe to be unbecoming to me4 ,sometimes ,i may fancy ,i look well in what another may not admire as a part of ,cavalieri4 ,in that ,i may be mistaken4 ,but ,i never consciously wear what makes me look less well than ,i would otherwise4 ,for instance1 you will observe from my photographs that ,i almost never change the style of wearing my hair4 ,long ago ,i found that flat waves drawn low upon my brow and cheeks were becoming to me4 ,in itself the style is a trying one1 but it happens to be becoming to my type of face4 ,the ,italian women are almost the only nation that can wear it to advantage4 ,it seems to belong to the large1 soft eyes1 straight nose and delicate chin of the race4 ,and so through the succeeding years ,i have worn them1 and because ,i looked well in them have worn them in the morning1 in the afternoon and in the evening1 have worn them to early musicales1 to luncheons1 to teas1 for drives and the opera4 ,i have varied the style only when the times or character ,i was playing in opera demanded that they be changed4 ,it is my opinion that the woman who discovers the style of hair dressing that is adapted to her individual style and with some possible slight modifications1 which are concessions to the mode1 preserves that general style until the chiselling of the years has so changed her face that she requires a different coiffure1 is the clever woman4 ,such a woman is ,alexandra of ,england4 ,the court hair dresser1 a great artist in his way1 gave weeks to studying the coiffure that should best frame the facial charms of the ,princess of ,wales4 ,he determined upon the present style4 ,queen ,alexandra dressed her hair in the same style for thirty years4 ,it is admirable for her long1 patrician features1 setting off their mingled delicacy and strength1 and her fine ,english coloring4 ,in time she will doubtless change the style to one softer and looser1 calculated to lessen the effect of aging features4 ,but that time1 happily1 is far off for her gracious ,majesty4 ,in general1 it is true that preserving the same outlines of a coiffure for most of a lifetime makes a woman seem younger4 ,in general1 too1 these rules may be followed in choosing the coiffure that shall be yours4 ,do not accentuate that which nature has already accentuated too much4 ,if nature has given you a round1 chubby face counteract this too decided tendency by building the hair high4 ,give the coiffure the effect of a pyramid4 ,the one high point at the top of the head will materially lengthen the face and lessen the roundness which tends to insipidity4 ,the high coiffure will thus give distinction to a face that had lacked it4 ,if the forehead is too low comb the hair loosely back from it4 ,this will add to the alertness and intelligence of the expression4 ,if1 on the other hand1 nature has given you the knobby1 by which ,i mean what you call the intellectual1 forehead1 the brow which is full and high and broad1 with projecting bumps1 modify nature's extreme by training the hair to fall in loose tendrils upon it4 ,also comb the rest of the hair1 but loosely1 from about it4 ,never tightly1 for that will give the drawn1 frightened look which nature has already carelessly bestowed4 ,if your face be broad1 the high coiffure increases its apparent length4 ,if yours be a slender countenance1 then affect the low coiffure1 for its tendency is toward breadth4 ,if the face be broad1 do not build the hair out loosely about the ears4 ,instead comb it upward above the ears4 ,if the face be slender1 its apparent breadth is added to by the 8fluffing0 out of the hair about the ears4 ,if the face is angular1 its hardness is reduced by a soft arrangement of the hair4 ,in arrangement of the hair remember that balance is the law of beauty1 as it is of wisdom4 ,for instance1 balance the heavy jaw by drawing the hair in a loose mass well forward above the brow4 ,balance the snub nose by a loose coiffure with no jutting protuberance at the back to suggest that it is the corresponding pole of the nose4 ,as to color of the hair1 it is my judgment that we would better leave it as nature painted it4 ,nature is the greatest colorist4 ,she matches complexion1 eyes and eyebrows perfectly with the hair4 ,transform your hair1 and you will be at the trouble of transforming your entire person4 ,we are not to blame for our hair1 but we are to blame for our hats4 ,they must look as though they belonged to us as our faces1 our eyes1 our teeth belong to us4 ,i always trim my own hats4 ,first ,i began to trim them because ,i had not the money to buy them or to pay for trimming them4 ,now ,i trim them because no one can do so to suit me4 ,i prefer simple hats1 for the sufficient reason that they are more becoming to me4 ,but an overtrimmed hat is inartistic4 ,it is ugly4 ,it is vulgar4 ,the hat should serve its function of being a becoming frame for the face4 ,the head should not be a mere pedestal or milliner's dummy for a monstrous hat4 ,women answer criticisms of the terrible travesties now worn1 8,but they are the fashion40 ,yes1 but who made them the fashion8 ,you and you and you4 ,a fashion can be killed at its birth1 in the shops of ,paris1 if women will but determinedly say3 8,no1 no1 no4 ,i do not like it4 ,i shall not wear it4 ,show me others40 ,remember the law of balance4 ,a woman with a tapering chin should wear a hat built to a corresponding peak at the top4 ,the effect of these two peaks should be to form an agreeable oval4 ,the round-faced woman's safety of becomingness lies in the hat in which angles predominate4 ,it should have stiff ribbon bows and sharp aigrettes1 or pointed wings and dagger-like ornaments4 ,this woman will always be improved1 too1 by wearing ,v effects in coats and wraps and gowns4 ,the hornlike effects should be avoided by the woman with sharp features4 ,her task of lending a semblance of softness and roundness to her face is made easier by a hat with a soft brim trimmed with a fall of lace or a shirring of silk or velvet4 ,also the sharp-featured woman should never wear a sailor hat4 ,neither should any woman over twenty-five4 ,here are some rules about dressing1 so fundamental that ,i would hesitate to give them were it not that every day ,i drive down ,fifth ,avenue ,i see them flagrantly transgressed4 ,for instance1 ,i see the short1 stout woman wearing a short1 stout coat4 ,the long1 thin woman wears a long1 thin coat4 ,that is1 each woman1 forgetting the law of balance1 has chosen that which accentuates what nature has already overaccentuated4 ,the short coat should have been worn by the tall woman4 ,it would have made her seem shorter4 ,the long coat should have been worn by the short woman to disguise her brevity4 ,i see short women wearing horizontal trimming1 when they should have had lengthwise trimming1 pointed trimming or no trimming at all4 ,i see a tall1 slender woman wearing a long cape1 when she could have divided her superabundant height in two by wearing a short one4 ,i see a short woman wearing a flounce about her already absurdly short skirt4 ,by some perversity the short woman tries to emulate the barrel and the tall woman the telegraph pole4 ,the woman with a crane-like neck bares its funny length to a grinning world1 and the woman with a mere line where a neck should be muffles that up with ruches that make her look like a frightened setting hen4 ,if only they would have ever before them the thought1 8,what is becoming to me80 and put far behind them the other question1 8,what is the fashion80 then would women dress artistically1 not ridiculously4 ,i do not preach that which ,i am not willing to practice4 ,it happens that ,i do not like white4 ,to me it is a dead1 trying color4 ,therefore ,i never wear it4 ,i am told this is to be a white season4 ,i answer1 8,it will not be for me40 ,and ,i continue to wear blue or black on the street1 and pale shades of rose or blue or green or yellow at night4 ,and merely because it happens to be 8a white season0 people do not forget to look at ,la ,cavalieri in rose or yellow or blue or green4 ,let me recall to you the most beautiful of ,american women1 ,maxine ,elliott4 ,one winter the coat covering the hips1 forming a second thickness of cloth upon them1 was fashionable4 ,did ,miss ,elliott wear it8 ,not at all4 ,i saw her wearing a very pronounced cutaway coat1 one in which the frock part of the coat was cut at the very middle of her hips1 so taking from instead of adding to the width of her figure4 ,and the ,maxine ,elliott hats6 ,have you noticed how like they are1 no matter what the fashion8 ,always beautiful1 because of elegant1 yet simple lines1 but more particularly beautiful because they are becoming to their wearer4 ,they are very little trimmed2 usually with large1 flat bows or low curving feathers4 ,almost always they are black1 or black with a touch of white1 but always they look as though they were designed for or by ,miss ,elliott1 as ,i doubt not they are4 ,the lank woman must shun the ,v-shaped corsage as ,his ,satanic ,majesty is said to avoid the bowl of ,holy ,water4 ,the broad corsage1 draped with full flounces of lace or tulle1 will be most becoming4 ,in the same degree the stout woman must avoid the corsage with round effects4 ,she should seek the pointed effects to counteract her redundancy of curves4 ,i will not go further into details on this subject4 ,the intelligent woman to whom this law of balance in dress has been presented will work out successfully her own problems4 ,it applies as well to colors as to form4 ,the high-colored woman needs pale tinted colors to reduce her own exuberance of color1 while the neutral tinted woman1 she with light gray or blue eyes and ash-brown hair1 requires in her youth at least brilliant shades4 ,when buying your wardrobe ,i beg of you to think less of the fashion plates displayed by your tailor and dressmaker than of your own style4 ,everyone has a style of her own1 and that is good style for her4 ,one authority on woman's dress even goes so far as to urge women to know themselves so well as to decide whether in their composition mind or soul or body dominates4 8,for10 according to this lecturer on womanly beauty1 8each of these three parts of your composition is represented by a color4 ,if you are a woman of intense spirituality you should wear much yellow1 for that represents the soul4 ,should you lean more to the material side of life you are best represented by red4 ,if you are one of the growing army of the intellectuals1 this authority advises wearing much of the mental color1 which is blue40 ,it occurs to me to inquire whether that is the reason why women of strong mentality are often referred to as 8blue stockings40 ,i do not wholly agree with this woman lecturer4 ,if1 for instance1 you are a red woman1 why not wear considerable yellow8 ,it will give you a more soulful aspect1 and1 if our manners react upon our characters1 why should not colors8 ,wearing the soul color may develop latent soul qualities4 ,or the red woman1 by wearing much blue1 might1 to use a term of the stage1 8convey an illusion0 of greater mentality than she has1 and perhaps stir that part of her self to greater activity4 ,it is an interesting theory1 but may1 perhaps1 be pursued to the point of attenuation4 ,one quality ,i like so greatly in you ,americans is that you are practical1 and theories so tenuous as this ,i have quoted move you to laughter4 ,i recall that when one of your authors wrote of the color of individual auras and talked of a 8pink personality10 she greatly interested the humorists4 ,i leave with you this theory to smile at or to adopt as you like4 ,but in what ,i shall say next ,i am most gravely serious4 ,that is that in selecting your wardrobe ,i would have you think far more about your individuality than about the passing fashion4 ,i do not know what will be the next caprice in furs4 ,i do not care4 ,being tall and slight ,i shall choose long-haired furs1 as the silver fox1 because1 to use an ,americanism1 ,i can 8carry them well40 ,but if you who read this are short1 and especially if you are short and stout1 wear short-skinned furs1 as mink and seal and sable1 if you can afford them1 for long-haired furs will render you out of drawing1 absurdly costumed4 ,while choosing your hats and wraps1 your gowns and gloves1 be for once self-centered4 ,self-centeredness is excusable when one is shopping4 ,it is in the direction of economy1 for if we think steadily of ourselves we will not purchase a fur coat in which our sister looks adorable but ourself ridiculous1 and we will not order a gown that will prove so unbecoming that we will give it away after once or twice wearing it4 ,keep in mind1 after your own individuality1 certain art principles that apply to dress4 ,this is a good one as to color4 8,dress up to your eyes1 your hair or your complexion40 ,permit me to explain4 ,if a girl has brown eyes she may not always wear brown gowns4 ,but she can be exceedingly careful to wear no tint that will make her creamy skin look sallow4 ,for her creamy shades are becoming1 because they harmonize with her complexion4 ,if a girl has red hair she will be wise if she wears shades1 regardless of the tint of the moment1 that will throw the hair into relief--as blue1 or green1 or black4 ,if a woman has ,irish eyes--that fascinating mixture of blue and gray1 that holds in its depths much of infant innocence yet much of worldly wisdom1 deep eyes that fascinate because they are inscrutable--she will look her best in gowns that match her eyes1 the same indeterminate blue and gray4 ,think of yourself steadily and not tenderly in the selection of stuffs4 ,if you are thin and active1 soft materials1 as chiffons1 crpe de chines1 light weight silks1 will be becoming4 ,if you are of heavier habit1 heavier silks and broadcloths are more expressive and so more becoming4 ,the dividing line between the skirt and bodice is ugly4 ,if you cannot have a one part dress1 then hide the dividing line by a girdle4 ,if you are stout1 let the girdle be of the same shade and material as the gown4 ,if not slender1 you may safely wear a girdle of different shade than your gown4 ,artists know the beauty of the straight line1 and for a few seasons coutourieres have groped their way toward it4 ,parallel lines running lengthwise are the lines of beauty in dress because they consistently follow those of the figure4 ,for this reason a gown whose pronounced lines are from the shoulder1 the drapery curving slightly at the waist1 give grace and beauty to the figure4 ,trimmings that run around the figure always lack beauty1 and if of contrasting material they have a ludicrous effect4 ,the high girdle gives an appearance of greater length to the limbs4 ,the girdle1 if not of the same color and material1 should not be of too glaringly the opposite4 ,remember that stiff effects are always inartistic1 so avoid the appearance of being trussed up1 as a fowl in the oven or soldier on parade4 ,for this reason shun tight sleeves1 tight gloves1 or skirts1 so heavy or narrow that they make your gait an awkward one4 ,i am glad that fashion permits the wearing of loose gloves4 ,they give ease to the hands and are far more graceful than the tight ones that gave the hand the appearance of being stuffed into it4 ,when selecting your hat1 a bit of brilliant color may be introduced2 but let it not be directly above the face1 for it will give to the face the illusion of being pale1 whether it is or not4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii ,,odds ,,and ,,ends ,,of ,,beauty ,,culture ,three months recently in ,russia and six months in ,paris taught me some new fads in the cultivation of beauty4 ,while you ,americans are so clever1 as well as beautiful1 you may not have heard of some of these4 ,i will1 therefore1 call the roll of those devices for the improvement of beauty which are finding present favor in ,europe1 some of which seem to me to have considerable scientific value4 ,but ,i ought to say that ,i have not myself personally used or tested all of these rather heroic new methods4 ,not all medical men are agreed on all things1 especially on new things1 and ,i advise my readers to ask the advice of their doctors on some of these matters4 ,there is1 for instance1 what is known as the vaccination cure for pimples4 ,pimples ,i have called 8spots on the sun of beauty40 ,spots1 whether on a frock or a face1 are disfiguring1 and it is desirable to remove them as soon as possible4 ,inoculation by a special form of vaccine is the latest method adopted by the medical profession4 ,it has been in many cases very successful4 ,the only objection is that it is still comparatively expensive4 ,the new theory is that pimples are caused by the presence of malefic germs4 ,a culture is made of these germs in beef broth4 ,the fluid is then rendered sterile by heating it to the boiling point4 ,a small vialful of this broth contains hundreds of millions of the germs4 ,while the germs themselves are dead1 the peculiar poison generated by them remains4 ,the treatment is given by a hypodermic injection4 ,this poison is destructive to the living organisms1 and in a few weeks' treatment obstinate cases of pimples have been completely cured by the welcome new process4 ,for obstinate cases of acne some advanced physicians are utilizing the ,x-ray4 ,blackheads are always disfiguring4 ,certain physicians have adopted the principle that these micro-organisms lodge in the follicles from which spring the small hairs that form a down on the cheeks4 ,these micro-organisms spread fast and cause inflammation4 ,the ,x-ray is summoned to check the spread of the inflammation4 ,this they do without danger to the skin4 ,after three or four treatments the face looks as though it were badly sunburned4 ,this appearance remains1 it seems to the patient1 discouragingly long1 but the results are most gratifying in every case ,i have studied4 ,the acne has been permanently removed and the complexion left beautifully clear4 ,a third scientific treatment of great aid to beauty is the removal of scars by an injection1 locally1 of a healing serum1 beneath the skin4 ,its function is to loosen the structure1 relax the drawn tissues and smooth the surface that had been1 to use an ,americanism1 8puckered40 ,there is in this last remedy the element of risk that always obtains when a foreign substance is injected into the circulation4 ,because of this element the method has not the entire endorsement of the medical profession4 ,a method that has great vogue just now is the new or modified massage called patting4 ,this is accepted by those who have always been consistent enemies of massage as it is generally given4 ,their theory is that massage1 as many have known it1 merely moves the wrinkles from one part of the face to another4 ,patting1 they declare1 does not drag the skin1 but builds up the muscles and promotes the circulation4 ,the name is a well-fitting one4 ,patting is done very lightly with the tips of the fingers4 ,the nose clamp is a new and amusing device adopted by beauties and would-be beauties to prevent the spreading of the nostrils and to give the nose1 that would otherwise be too round1 a delicate point4 ,i have called on my friends in the morning and have been received in their bedrooms4 ,they looked very charming in their night robes of delicate batiste1 embroidered and further ornamented with pink and blue bows1 not pink and blue bows on different gowns1 but combined in the same gown4 ,their hair carefully parted from the point of the forehead to the back of the neck1 and braided in two loose braids1 either hangs becomingly over their shoulders1 one braid tied with a blue bow1 the other with a pink1 to match the ribbon garniture of the night robe1 or is twisted loosely around the head4 ,their complexions looked fresh and cool from their bath of cold cream1 but they all looked odd1 and ,i shrieked with laughter at them because they wore nose clamps4 ,one who disliked the touch of the cold metal substituted the homely domestic article1 the clothespin4 ,both the clamp and the clothespin are well protected by a lining of white silk or velvet4 ,absurd as these things look1 ,i was assured by all who wore them that they served admirably their purpose4 ,ice has come to be one of the first aids of beauty4 ,it is used after massage of the face and neck to harden the muscles4 ,i find women using it to drive away wrinkles and this seems to me scientific1 for while the shock of the first application will drive the blood from the surface1 it causes it to rebound1 bringing a fine flush to the skin and feeding the neglected and shrunken tissues4 ,whatever renews the tissues eradicates wrinkles4 ,many physicians are endorsing sulphur facial baths to cure acne4 ,this lotion is applied several times a day1 they told me1 with good results3 ,rose water1 #d ounces2 precipitate of sulphur1 #a dram2 tincture of camphor1 #a dram4 ,women are beginning to realize that sagging muscles1 rather than a superabundance of flesh1 are the cause of the double chin4 ,they are preventing1 as far as possible1 the falling cheek muscles and the pendulousness of the chin muscles by hardening them with lumps of ice held in the hand and pressed against those muscles as long as the pressure can be endured2 also by wearing chin bandages4 ,first the fancy1 then the fad1 then the flitting4 ,this is the history of most announced discoveries of the means to heighten beauty4 ,they have their little hour of discipleship2 their impulsive following2 their period of vanishing4 ,yet beneath nearly all the beauty fads there is a more or less well applied principle of science4 ,for instance1 there is the rubber chin band4 ,the band to control the usurping flesh of the double chin was first of muslin4 ,then it was improved by the use of elastic4 ,now it has evolved to its best state1 that of strong yet light rubber1 made with a throat latch resembling the lower part of a horse's halter4 ,attached by a clasp on either side are straps that fasten at the top of the head4 ,the original idea of compressing the flesh so that it would form in a smaller and becoming mold was sound1 but the later idea of using rubber appeals still more to common knowledge4 ,the wearing of rubber next to the skin causes perspiration4 ,therefore1 the rubber band will not only hold the flesh of the pendulous chin in place1 but by causing free perspiration it will gradually reduce its size4 ,the rubber band1 worn at night1 and frequently during the day1 for a half hour or more at a time1 is the best cure for the double chin the new year has offered us4 ,the aged hand has been a source of much mortification and anxiety to the woman who has left her thirties and her forties behind her4 ,yet electricity1 that prime aid in the rejuvenation of beauty1 has come to her aid1 and now the woman who has a good many years to her credit1 but who does not care to admit that balance1 goes to the beauty parlors1 settles back comfortably in a reclining chair1 and renews the youth of her hands by electrical treatment4 ,the operator traces over the hand again and again1 round and round1 focussing most on the base of the back near the wrist a small electrical machine attached to a light battery4 ,the skin of ,madame's hands begins to tingle4 ,the blood rushes in a flood to the surface4 ,in a few days she notices that the ugly furrows1 trenches dug by the cruel spade of time1 are being filled up4 ,after a little longer time they are entirely filled and present an even surface4 ,the hand has been plumpened4 ,the work of rejuvenation has been done4 ,with occasional renewals of this treatment1 combined with much nightly feeding of the hands with a plumpening oil or cold cream1 they will keep their renewed youthfulness4 ,either of the following creams ,i recommend for that purpose3 ,spermaceti1 #f ounces2 white wax1 #b ounces2 oil of almonds1 #af ounces2 glycerine1 #d ounces2 rosewater1 #d ounces2 borax1 #a ounce2 oil of rose1 #bj minims2 extract of jasmine1 #a ounce4 ,this whitens as well as plumpens the hands3 ,alcohol1 #c ounces2 glycerine1 #b ounces2 cologne1 #b drams2 boric acid1 #d grains2 quince seed1 #a drams2 carbolic acid1 #aj grains2 glycerine of starch1 #b ounces2 oil of lavender1 #bj drops2 distilled water1 #b pints4 ,a soothing and whitening1 as well as feeding1 cream is this3 ,cucumber essence1 #a pint2 cucumber juice1 #b ounces2 oil of almonds1 #a pint2 olive oil1 #a ounce2 white wax1 #a ounce2 spermaceti1 #a ounce4 ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,italics are shown thus3 sloping4 ,variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained4 ,perceived typographical errors have been changed4