,,transcriber',s ,,note ,bold text is denoted by equal signs4 ,some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book4 ,original book did not include a table of contents1 one has been created for convenience of the reader4 ,table of ,contents ,general4 ,chapter ,i4 ,tools4 ,the ,saw4 ,the ,use of the ,saw4 ,the ,plane4 ,to ,sharpen ,planes4 ,to ,use the ,plane4 ,chisels4 ,to ,sharpen ,chisels4 ,to ,use the ,chisel4 ,the ,marking ,gauge4 ,the ,screw ,driver4 ,the ,bit ,brace4 ,bits4 ,to ,sharpen ,bits4 ,the ,nail ,set4 ,the ,hammer4 ,oil ,stones4 ,the ,mallet4 ,the ,try ,square4 ,the ,steel ,square4 ,the ,sliding ,t ,bevel4 ,the ,dividers4 ,two-foot ,rule4 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,wood ,working and ,joining4 ,the ,saw ,horse4 ,work ,bench4 ,bench ,stop4 ,chapter ,,iii4 ,squaring and ,jointing4 ,half ,tenon and ,halving4 ,halved ,joint4 ,mortise and ,tenon4 ,panelling4 ,dowelling and ,joining4 ,mitring4 ,dovetailing4 ,chapter ,,iv4 ,fastenings4 ,chapter ,v4 ,dressing ,off and ,smoothing4 ,chapter ,,vi4 ,staining1 ,dyeing1 ,filling1 ,polishing4 ,designs ,piano ,or ,organ ,bench4 ,plant ,stand4 ,magazine ,stand4 ,music ,cabinet4 ,hall ,seat4 ,hat ,tree4 ,dining ,table4 ,chair4 ,morris ,chair4 ,library ,table4 ,,hand ,,made ,,furniture ,,and ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,it ,designed for the use of those seeking either a pleasant and profitable occupation or such furniture for their homes as shall express their own artistic taste1 and stand for sturdy honesty of purpose1 simple beauty1 comfort and durability4 ,albert ,g4 ,glidden ,,hand ,,made ,,furniture ,,shop1 ,spokane1 ,wash4 ,copywrited #aiaj by ,a4 ,g4 ,glidden4 ,,general4 ,there is probably no home in which the comfort1 convenience or artistic appearance could not be improved by the addition or replacing of some pieces of furniture4 ,the reason is simple4 ,they are furnished with store furniture1 and store furniture is made to sell2 the designs limited by the capabilities of the machines which make it2 made of the cheapest materials2 put together in the quickest1 rather than the best way1 and then finished up with the crudest varnish and stain to make a fine appearance4 ,it is a depressing sight to see this furniture on moving day1 piled on the sidewalk1 scratched1 broken1 dingy1 all its fine pretense of beauty gone forever4 ,on the other hand1 the chairs1 tables1 sideboards and other pieces that have come down to us through generations were all made by hand1 put together by hand and finished by hand in the days when there was no machinery and the workman was an artist4 ,the result is that instead of finding its way to the scrap heap this old furniture is as good today as ever1 after two or three hundred years of wear and tear and removal from place to place half round the world4 ,hampered by no limitations of machinery these designers set the standard for the world for all times4 ,such furniture is worth while1 and is an everlasting inspiration to the home-maker and worker4 ,our new style1 variously known as 8,arts and ,crafts10 8,mission10 8,craftsman10 etc41 is especially adapted to hand work1 and while differing from the rich old oak and mahogany of our fathers' in form and finish1 is like them in all the qualities of beauty and durability and is far more comfortable4 ,a home furnished in this style not only expresses the artistic taste of its inmates but also exerts an influence of sturdy honesty of purpose1 simplicity and absence of all gaudy pretense1 which both its frank1 straight lines and freedom from anything to hide or mar the natural beauty of the wood so forcibly express4 ,it is a style of which we can never tire and of which no other can take the place4 ,it will last for generations1 for every part is as strong as the wood of which it is made4 ,you can make it and make it better than you can buy in any store1 for it is made in the most natural way1 after the most natural design1 of the most natural material4 ,of course1 it cannot be hoped that the mere reading of any book can make an expert cabinet maker of an inexperienced workman1 but the instructions contained in this book will enable any one to make furniture4 ,handsome1 comfortable1 durable furniture4 ,the length of time required on each of the exercises will1 of course1 vary with the individual workman and his aptitude for the work4 ,all that can be said as to the number of times the exercises should be performed is simply to keep at each one until you are satisfied with the results1 you can judge as well as any one when your work is good4 ,time spent in practice is time well spent1 for you are learning to make something which will be with you for years to come4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 ,i4 ,most people know more or less about the use of tools and to some it will seem that we are unnecessarily explicit about things which to them are matters of course1 but as we are writing for those who have had no experience whatever in the use of tools1 as well as others1 we have begun with the rudiments and taken one after another in the order most likely to assure rapid progress4 ,for the same reason we have avoided1 in so far as possible1 technical terms and trade names1 though in some cases it has been necessary to use the customary terms1 as no others will express the meaning4 ,for instance1 the use of the word 8square10 as applied to our work1 does not always mean rectangular but oftener means at right angles to adjoining surfaces4 ,thus1 when we say 8saw square0 or 8plane square0 we mean to make your surface straight and true and at right angles with some other surface4 ,the term 8right angles0 will be easily understood by reference to ,fig4 #a4 ,whenever two lines meet they form an angle1 and having the direction of one line and the degree of the angle we know the direction of the other line4 ,thus in ,fig4 #a all the lines meet at 7a74 ,taking the line 7a-b7 as our base and wishing to find any other line of which we have the degree of angle we draw a circle around 7a74 ,the size of the circle does not make any difference4 ,a circle is divided into #cfj degrees1 therefore1 if we are given an angle of #ij degrees1 we know that it is a quarter of the circle and drawing a line from 7a7 to the outer rim of the circle a quarter of the way around we have the line 7a-c7 which forms an angle of #ij degrees with the line 7a-b74 ,in the same way an angle of #cj degrees would be formed by a line drawn from 7a7 to the outer rim of the circle th of the way round from 7b7 7a-d74 ,forty-five degrees would be th of the way round 7a-e71 #fj degrees th of the way round 7a-f71 #ahj degrees half way round1 and so on4 ,the angle of #ij degrees is spoken of as a right angle and in our work one line of the angle is said to be square to the other4 ,we also use the term in speaking of angles #a in #f1 or #b in #f1 etc4 ,you will understand this if you will take your steel square and place your rule diagonally across it and when1 for instance1 we say #a in #f we would mean to place your rule #f in4 from the corner of the square on one arm and #a in4 from the corner on the other arm of the square2 #b in #f would mean keep the rule at #f in4 on one arm and move the other end of the rule #b in4 from the corner on the other arm4 ,in other words1 an angle may be said to give the degree of slant4 ,we have included in this book a few designs for pieces of furniture in order to show the method of assembling the parts and the most convenient way of laying out and beginning a piece of work4 ,in this connection we wish to impress upon you the importance of laying out the whole of a piece of work before you begin to cut it at all4 ,you will appreciate this as you proceed4 ,in our cuts we have made no attempt at fine drawing but have used the fewest possible lines for the sake of plainness and only so much shading as is necessary4 ,single lines usually designate the outline of solid parts4 ,dotted lines show the outlines of parts lying beneath the surface1 or in other words1 as if seen through the object1 and are used merely to show the location of parts which would really be invisible4 ,wavy lines are generally used where only a part of a piece is shown and designate that the piece is really longer than drawn but the part beyond the wavy line is not necessary in the illustration4 ,we have used shading to show end grain in some cases but more often to show where a part is cut away1 as in the side of a tenon1 etc4 ,dimensions are shown by arrow pointed lines4 ,where these lines point in opposite directions with the figures between them1 or point toward each other with the figures at the end of one arrow1 they give the distance in both cases between the arrow points4 ,the choice of wood depends largely on the purpose for which it is to be used and personal taste4 ,you will probably have no occasion to use other woods than fir1 oak and mahogany1 with possibly some pine4 ,fir is soft and likely to splinter if not carefully handled1 but is easy to work1 the grain is wavy and beautiful and it can be finished to equal oak in beauty4 ,oak is harder but more durable and admits of a very high polish4 ,it is much stronger and therefore1 except where proportion requires size1 the parts can be made much smaller than when using fir4 ,as1 for instance1 in chair and table legs1 braces1 etc4 ,oak also bends better than fir but it is necessary to steam it for this purpose and unless you have proper steam box and clamps to hold it until dry1 we do not advise attempting to bend the parts4 ,mahogany has been the most highly prized of these three woods until recently1 and is the most expensive1 but oak has largely taken its place in fine furniture of this style1 as it is more in keeping with the straight lines4 ,pine is soft1 light and not so likely to splinter as fir1 but has little grain and is not used extensively except in concealed parts where strength is not essential4 ,in most lumber1 and especially that with much flake or grain1 you will find that the grain does not lay flat on the surface1 but comes up to the surface at an angle and in planing it is important to cut in the direction of this grain1 not against it1 as in the latter case it will chip up and leave nicks in the surface instead of cutting smooth4 ,in using the scraper on fir you have to be careful or it will cut deeper in the soft grain of the wood than on the flake1 and make a wavy surface instead of a flat one4 ,this1 however1 can be avoided with a little care4 ,we trust that with these suggestions the following may be quite clear to you1 but if there is any point on which you are not quite clear1 or if there is any advice you would like we would be very glad to hear from you and to assist you in any way that our experience will permit4 ,chapter ,i4 ,,tools4 ,right here and now we want to say1 keep your tools sharp4 ,many beginners are discouraged with the result of their work when the fault is entirely with the dullness of their tools4 ,a dull tool cannot do good work no matter how skillful the workman may be4 ,therefore1 we say again1 keep all tools sharp all the time4 ,with this in mind1 let us see what tools are necessary for our purpose and how to sharpen1 use and care for them4 ,,the ,,saw4 ,the saw comes first in use and perhaps in importance4 ,there are several kinds1 but you will need only one #bd-;inch rip saw1 about #g tooth 7to an inch7 for sawing with the grain2 one #bj-;inch cross-cut saw1 #aj tooth1 for sawing across the grain2 one #ab-;inch back saw1 #ab tooth1 for sawing a perfectly straight1 narrow smooth cut 7kerf72 one #ab-;inch compass saw1 #h tooth1 for sawing curves4 ,these saws are sharpened when you buy them and we do not advise you to attempt to file your saws until you have learned by practice how to do it properly4 ,have them sharpened by an expert1 for while it is very simple it requires skill1 acquired only from experience4 ,do not neglect it1 however4 ,a dull saw leaves a ragged edge and takes double effort4 ,if you desire to file your saws get an old one to practice on4 ,it is not a difficult thing to learn1 and while opinions differ as to just how the work should be done there are a few essentials which must be observed4 ,the following is the result of long experience and careful study and will give satisfactory results3 ,you will need to purchase a saw vise 7one with rubber in the jaws will prevent noise71 also a slim #g-;inch taper file for #g and #h tooth saws1 #e-;inch slim taper file for #aj and #ab tooth1 and a fairly long1 flat mill file for jointing2 a saw set of any of the standard patterns1 and then proceed as follows3 ,fasten the saw vise to something steady1 clamp the saw in it1 teeth up1 take the steel square1 or other straight edge and hold it with the edge along the teeth of the saw4 ,if the teeth do not all just touch the edge of the square they are not of equal length and require what is called 8jointing40 ,to do this take the flat mill file and lay it flat along the points of the teeth1 filing as if to dull them until they are all equal in length1 which you test with the square as before4 ,the next step is to 8set0 the saw4 ,this consists in bending the points of alternate teeth to right and left4 ,this is done with the saw set4 ,have the salesman show you how to operate whatever kind you buy4 ,the teeth should be bent only just enough to clear1 do not set too deep1 only the point should be bent1 or half the tooth at most2 set the tooth toward the side on which the point is2 this will be every other tooth one way and alternate ones the other way2 set one side first1 then the other side4 ,your saw is now ready for filing4 ,select the size of file given above for the particular saw1 commence at the butt 7handle end7 with the first tooth set away from you and file every alternate tooth4 ,keep the file level1 that is1 the handle and point at the same height when the saw is straight up on edge4 ,you will notice that the teeth of your ,cross-cut1 ,back and ,compass saws are filed on an angle4 ,this angle is entirely at the discretion of the owner4 ,it is essential1 however1 that the bevel be filed on the front of the tooth4 ,it will give very satisfactory results if you make it about #de degrees4 ,keep the angle precisely the same on all the teeth4 ,when you have filed the teeth on one side turn the saw around and file those on the other side4 ,as to the shape of the teeth there is much difference of opinion1 but until you have some reason to change keep it the same as when you bought the saw4 ,now take the saw out of the vise1 lay it on a flat board and rub the sides of the teeth with the oil stone until they are perfectly even4 ,to file the ,rip saw proceed as above1 except file straight across1 not at an angle4 ,file every tooth exactly the same size and shape and your saw will run true and easy4 ,,the ,,use ,,of ,,the ,,saw4 ,the use of the saw is constant and important4 ,saw true always1 whether the results make any difference or not4 ,in this way you will train your eye and hand4 ,do not saw without a mark4 ,use a hard pencil so as to make a narrow line4 ,in all cases when joining mark with a knife or marking awl1 remember that nearly always the sawed edge will have to be smoothed with the plane1 and allow for this in such cases4 ,start your saw by a few short strokes1 as it is likely to 8jump0 if you use too long a stroke before the cut is started4 ,as soon as it is started use a full stroke4 ,do not saw in little jerks1 but be careful not to pull the saw all the way out of the cut1 as this will mar your work and may break the saw4 ,your ,rip saw and your ,cross-cut saw should be held at an angle of about #de degrees4 ,with the ,compass saw1 you will generally have to hold it straight through the board in order to follow the curve4 ,the ,back saw is used flat down on the work1 though you may raise or lower the butt a little in starting4 ,it will take practice to learn to saw 8square10 that is1 so the cut is at right angles with the surface of the plank4 ,most beginners are inclined to tip the butt of the saw away from them as the cut gets nearer to them4 ,be careful about this4 ,it is necessary to bring the butt in as the cut gets nearer4 ,of course1 this does not apply to the ,back saw1 as that cuts straight down4 ,in this case be sure to start true to your mark and hold the saw exactly at right angles to the surface of your work so as to cut square4 ,a saw properly set and filed does not require grease to make it run smoothly but should be wiped off after using with an oily cloth to prevent rust4 ,,the ,,plane4 ,the plane may be of wood or iron or a combination of the two4 ,we recommend a ,no4 #c ,bailey iron plane 7block7 for smoothing2 a ,no4 #e ,bailey iron plane 7jack7 for heavier cutting and jointing2 a wooden plow inch2 a wooden plow inch2 a wooden rabbet plane to inch4 ,if you care to spend the money a wood and iron jointer1 not less than #bd inch long is also valuable1 but with care you can do this work with your ,no4 #e jack plane4 ,the dealer will also show you ,stanley ,nos4 #de and #ee planes4 ,these are expensive1 but very convenient1 as they will take the place of the rabbet and plow1 and will also cut mouldings1 reeding1 etc4 ,have the dealer show you how to take apart and put together whatever planes you buy4 ,,to ,,sharpen ,,planes4 ,to sharpen planes use the oil stone1 and oil that will not gum4 ,the jack and jointer have a cap iron on the blade2 remove this and rub the bevelled side of the blade on the stone with either a spiral or figure eight motion4 ,some workmen hold the bevel flat on the stone1 others prefer to raise the blade onto the edge a little so as to make a second bevel just at the sharp edge4 ,this gives a stronger cutting edge4 ,we prefer the latter method4 ,either way will turn up a feather edge on the other side1 and to remove this turn the blade over on the flat or long side and rub it perfectly flat on the stone4 ,repeat the process until the edge is very sharp and perfectly smooth4 ,do not scratch your stone with the corner of the blade4 ,put your plane together again keeping the cap iron to of an inch back from the cutting edge4 ,,to ,,use ,,the ,,plane4 ,to use the plane sight along the bottom and set the blade so it just shows4 ,if you want to cut deeper you can set it deeper after trying it4 ,stand back of your plane1 rather than over it1 so you push it away from you instead of across in front of you4 ,in this way you will cut truer and with less effort4 ,avoid a rocking motion4 ,hold the heel firmly down with the right hand and the front with the left hand4 ,at the beginning of the stroke hold the front down squarely and at the end of the stroke ease up on the front and hold the heel down4 ,when the plane runs off the end of the work at the end of the stroke1 as you reach the end lift the front so that it does not drop over the end and make it low4 ,always plane square1 whether it makes any difference or not1 for the sake of habit4 ,,chisels4 ,chisels are of several kinds and lengths4 ,for our use we prefer as most convenient one each 1 and inch butt chisels 7short blade74 ,you will have little or no use for anything wider than inch4 ,,to ,,sharpen ,,chisels4 ,to sharpen chisels proceed as with the plane blade1 except hold the bevel flat on the stone4 ,do not raise on the edge at all1 as this should be thin and very keen4 ,,to ,,use ,,the ,,chisel4 ,to use the chisel keep the flat side towards the mark4 ,for chisel work always mark with a knife4 ,always leave a margin next the line until the finishing cuts4 ,if you cut right to the line in the beginning you are likely to mar the edge of your cut1 and also in soft wood the bevel of the chisel forces it a little towards the flat side4 ,when cutting across the grain hold the chisel very flat on the work or it will 8dig in40 ,,the ,,marking ,,gauge4 ,the marking gauge is made in several patterns4 ,the simplest will do4 ,in its use you need little instruction4 ,always tip it a little in the direction you are moving it4 ,if held straight up it will try to follow the grain4 ,hold the guide firmly and flat against the work4 ,,the ,,screw ,,driver4 ,the screw driver should be of the very best4 ,for our work we recommend one each and inch1 fairly long4 ,always bore holes for screws4 ,the hole should be about two-thirds the diameter of the screw4 ,put a little soap on the screw and it will drive easier and be less likely to split your work4 ,when it is nearly all the way in and begins to go harder loosen the screw driver after each turn by a little back twist and it will be less likely to slip out or mar the screw head4 ,,the ,,bit ,,brace4 ,the bit brace should be of the ratchet pattern and rather small4 ,oil the working parts occasionally4 ,,bits4 ,bits are of various patterns4 ,for our work get one each 1 and inch gimlet bits2 one each 1 1 1 1 and #a inch auger bits and one counter sink4 ,the gimlet bits you will use principally for screw holes4 ,be careful not to bend them4 ,the auger bits are for larger holes4 ,when using them it is a good plan1 if you intend to bore all the way through1 to stop as soon as the worm is through and bore in from the other side4 ,you are less likely in this way to raise the grain around the hole4 ,,to ,,sharpen ,,bits4 ,to sharpen bits use a slip stone 7a thin oil stone74 ,rub the sharpened edges on the inside keeping the angle the same as when new4 ,,the ,,nail ,,set4 ,the nail set is a small steel punch1 hollowed a little on the end4 ,it is for sinking nail heads below the surface of the work4 ,always incline the nail set in the same direction as the nail so it will not slip off and mar your work4 ,,the ,,hammer4 ,the hammer should be fairly light4 ,get one ball pein 7round face7 claw hammer1 rather small2 one riveting hammer 7small74 ,use the claw hammer for all ordinary work and the riveting hammer for small brads and welding4 ,always hold a hammer by the end of the handle4 ,it is balanced to be held so4 ,make the stroke from the elbow rather than the wrist4 ,never drive a nail with one or two single blows4 ,it holds better when driven in several blows4 ,,oil ,,stones4 ,oil stones are made of composition and of natural stone4 ,the former is perhaps the better of the two4 ,clean off occasionally with kerosene to remove the steel and dried oil4 ,be careful not to scratch it4 ,to true an oil stone when hollowed down in the middle fasten a piece of ,no4 #a sandpaper on a flat board1 moisten it slightly and rub the face of the stone on it until true4 ,,the ,,mallet4 ,the mallet is for driving your chisel4 ,never use it on metal4 ,use the same stroke as with the hammer and always hold by the end of the handle4 ,,the ,,try ,,square4 ,the try square is extremely important4 ,have the dealer test it in a steel square before you buy it4 ,it is for marking at right angles and for testing work4 ,in use be sure to hold the thick end snugly against the work that is squared4 ,,the ,,steel ,,square4 ,the steel square is for larger work than the try square4 ,it also has many uses which you will not require of it4 ,,the ,,sliding ,t ,,bevel4 ,the sliding ,t bevel is much like the try square except that it can be set at any angle and clamped with a thumb screw4 ,you will use it for mitring1 etc4 ,,the ,,dividers4 ,the dividers are for marking circles or arcs and for dividing a given space into equal parts4 ,be careful not to make deep holes with them4 ,just enough to show is sufficient4 ,do not bend the points4 ,,two-,,foot ,,rule4 ,two-foot rule should be divided to sixteenths at least4 ,be careful not to mar it or your accuracy will suffer in consequence4 ,chapter ,,ii4 ,,wood ,,working ,,and ,,joining4 ,in your work-room you will need several appliances which you can either buy1 have made or make yourself4 ,among these are two saw horses2 a work bench with stop and vise2 a tool chest or closet2 a mitre box and a bench hook4 ,these may be more or less elaborate4 ,we give below the easiest and simplest that will do4 ,you can improve on them if you desire4 ,,the ,,saw ,,horse4 ,the saw horse is merely a straight bar with four legs on which to rest material while working it4 ,you will want two4 ,to make a saw horse get two pieces of dry fir or pine #b in4 #d in4 by #ab ft4 long s#ds common lumber will do so long as it has no knots large enough to weaken it4 ,the s#ds means sized on four sides and is the term used by the mills for planing off the saw marks4 ,using your try square1 mark across one piece as near the end as the wood is sound1 with your cross-cut saw cut off the end square at this mark4 ,with your rule measure off four legs1 each #bd inches long1 and one piece #c feet long for the rail1 mark and saw as before4 ,the legs must be bevelled at the tops just like the bevels on your chisels4 ,this will make them spread properly at the bottom4 ,to cut this bevel lean one of the legs against the wall with the flat side to the wall and the bottom end about #i inches out from the base board4 ,now place your rule1 folded up1 with its edge against the wall and the flat side against the upper end of the leg and with your pencil mark the side of the leg along the rule4 ,be careful to cut square4 ,bevel one end of each leg4 ,lay your rail on the floor on its flat side1 set the bevel of the leg against it about #c inches from the end1 with the top of the leg even with the top of the rail4 ,drive in one nail and with your steel square see that the leg is at right angles with the rail1 then put in enough more nails to make it solid4 ,do likewise on other end1 then turn over and put the other two legs on4 ,stand the horse up on its legs1 if it rocks a little put a small wedge under the short leg and with your rule folded1 its edge on the floor and flat side against the edge of the leg1 mark along the rule4 ,with your try square mark across the flat side of the leg from this line and saw the leg off here on the angle given by the two lines4 ,if this is done carefully on all four legs your horse will set firmly on the floor4 ,,work ,,bench4 ,to make a simple work bench you will require one piece #b in4 #ab in4 #ab ft4 long s#ds2 one piece #a in4 #ab in4 #af ft4 s#ds2 one piece #b in4 #d in4 #aj ft4 s#ds2 one piece #b in4 #f in4 #e ft4 s#ds4 ,common lumber will do if knots are not too large4 ,you will also need a #a-;inch bench screw4 ,saw the #b in4 #ab in4 into two pieces for the top4 ,saw the #b in4 #d in4 into four pieces each #cj inches long for legs4 ,from the #a in4 #ab in4 saw off two pieces each #bb inches long and nail a leg firmly on each end of both of them1 with the #b-;inch side of the leg next the board and keeping the top of the leg even with the top edge of the board1 and the ends of the board even with the outside of the leg4 ,saw the remainder #a in4 #ab in4 into two pieces #e feet long and nail the ends to the flat side of the legs with the tops even with the top of the leg and the ends even with the outside of the short board previously nailed on the legs4 ,this will make the frame of your bench4 ,now stand it up and lay the top on it so that the top projects about #c inches beyond the frame at each end and is flush with it in front4 ,nail the front top piece on first1 being careful to get the frame square at the corners1 then holding the back piece firmly against it nail that also4 ,set your nail heads below the surface with the nail set4 ,now stand the #b in4 #f in4 on the floor against the bench and mark it just the height on the top of the bench4 ,saw it square across at this mark for the inside jaw of your vise4 ,cut the outside jaw #c inches shorter than this so it will not touch the floor4 ,about #f inches below the top of both jaws1 and exactly in the center1 bore an inch hole for the bench screw4 ,most bench screws have a bulge on the inner face of the plate and you will probably have to cut around the hole on the outside jaw as if for a big screw head so this plate will set down flat4 ,now fasten the inside jaw to the bench near the left-hand end1 one end on the floor and the other flush with the top of the bench4 ,putting your #a-;inch bit through the hole in the jaw bore through the apron1 next unscrew the threaded collar from the bench screw and set it in the center of a piece of wood #b in4 #d in4 #h in4 ,to do this bore a hole through the #b in4 #d in4 and ream it out with your knife large enough to take the collar1 or else take it to a carpenter shop and have it bored with a larger bit4 ,now1 having fastened the bench screw to the outside jaw1 put it through the inside jaw and apron and then screw on the #b in4 #d in4 with the collar in it4 ,nail the #b in4 #d in4 to the inside of the apron4 ,there only remains the slide in the bottom of the vise4 ,three inches above the bottom end1 in the center of the outside jaw1 bore an inch hole through both jaws4 ,get a piece of hard wood 7broom-stick7 about #ah inches long that will run easily through this hole4 ,put it through the hole till the end is flush with the outside of the outside jaw4 ,then wedge it tight1 or nail it from the side so that it will run easily through the inside jaw1 but hold the outside one4 ,bore inch holes through this slide from side to side about #a inch apart4 ,cut the head off a #bj;d nail and use this as a pin to hold the bottom of the jaws as wide open when in use as the thickness of the material you have in the vise1 or as nearly so as the holes in the slide will permit4 ,,bench ,,stop4 ,the bench stop is used to brace your work against when planing1 etc4 ,you can buy an adjustable iron one or make a simple one as follows3 ,six inches from the left-hand end of the bench1 and about #d inches from the front1 bore a hole straight down through the top with a bit the size of your broom-stick1 before mentioned4 ,into this drive the broom-stick tight and with the saw cut it off about inch above the top of the bench4 ,this will answer temporarily4 ,you now have your bench and saw horses and can begin work4 ,they may appear a little crude but will answer every purpose and you can buy or build finer ones when you have learned to use the tools easily4 ,we would advise postponing the tool chest until you have had some experience in the use of tools4 ,the mitre box is described later in your work and you will not need it for the present4 ,chapter ,,iii4 ,,squaring ,,and ,,jointing4 ,for this and other exercises we recommend #b in4 #d in4 kiln dried ,no4 #a pine s#ds4 ,this is less than #b in4 #d in41 as these are the dimensions in the rough and some surface is taken off in dressing it4 ,in speaking of lumber we give dimensions in the rough1 but in speaking of parts of a piece of work actual measurements are always given4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,i4 ,saw off a piece of #b in4 #d in4 #ah inches long4 ,the object of this exercise is to learn to square this block1 that is1 make every surface perfectly flat and straight and exactly at right angles to the adjoining surfaces4 ,this operation is necessary on almost every piece of work you will do and its accuracy is of the utmost importance4 ,place your piece on the bench with one of the wide sides up and the end against the bench stop4 ,set your jack plane to cut a very thin shaving4 ,plane the upper surface carefully1 testing it from time to time with the side of your plane to see that it is perfectly straight4 ,this is called jointing4 ,it must also be flat4 ,test this with the side of your plane laid across it and in all directions4 ,next turn it up on edge and joint and square in the same manner4 ,to test the angle use the try square with the broad arm against the face of the side you have already squared4 ,plane the other two sides in like manner until all four sides are absolutely square with adjoining sides and perfectly straight from end to end4 ,measure off in4 from one end and mark with try square and knife across the top4 ,turn it up and mark from this line down the side next you4 ,with the back saw cut square to these marks4 ,now measure #ah in4 from this and cut the other end off square in the same manner4 ,put the piece in the vise end up and projecting about an inch above the vise and with your smoothing plane plane the ends true1 testing from all four sides with the try square4 ,it is well in this operation to put a piece of waste material back of your work in the vise1 with its upper edge even with the upper edge of your work4 ,this will prevent chipping off the further edge as you plane across it4 ,square up other end in like manner4 ,you will probably have to try some little time before you can get this exercise perfectly1 but persist4 ,though simple it is perhaps as important as any you will have and you will be called upon to repeat this process constantly4 ,do not slight it1 therefore1 and when you can square a block perfectly you have made a great stride forward4 ,,half ,,tenon ,,and ,,halving4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,ii4 ,saw off a piece of #b in4 #d in4 #ab inches long4 ,square it up as in ,exercise ,i4 ,select the wide side with the best grain1 etc41 for your working side and mark it 8,o40 ,measure off #c in4 from the left-hand end as it lies on the bench before you and with your knife and try square mark across the working face 7a-a74 ,turn up on edge and mark across from this line 7b-b74 ,turn on other edge and do the same4 ,next measure #c in4 farther from the end and mark across the working face and down the two edges in the same manner 7c-c-c74 ,then #c inches farther from the end mark across face and edges as before 7d-d-d74 ,now take your marking gauge and set it in4 deep4 ,turn work on its edge1 with the working face to your right and with the gauge make a line along the edge from 7e-e-e71 that is1 a line of an inch below the working face and parallel with it4 ,do likewise between 7c7 and 7d7 and 7f-f74 ,turn the work over and mark the other side in the same way and also carry your gauge mark across the end 7g-g74 ,place the work on the bench working face up with the marked end to the right4 ,with your back saw cut down at 7b7 to the gauge mark 7e71 being careful that your saw cuts just to the mark both on top and down the edge4 ,saw in the same way at 7c7 to 7f7 and 7d7 to 7f71 being careful in all cases that your saw cuts only to the middle of your mark1 the cut being in the wood to be removed1 which in our case is between 7b7 and the end and 7c7 and 7d74 ,do not mar corners in starting your saw4 ,place the work in the vise with the gauge mark just above the jaws4 ,with your widest chisel cut out the parts to be removed1 cutting across the grain1 flat side of the chisel down4 ,do not try to take out too much at a time4 ,do not cut all the way across as the wood is likely to chip off the far side below your gauge line1 so cut only half way across1 then turn the piece around and cut from the other side4 ,when you reach the bottom 7the gauge line7 be very careful to hold the chisel flat1 that is1 straight across1 or you will not have a flat1 even bottom4 ,next turn the work up on end in the vise and with your rip saw cut down the gauge line across the end 7g-g7 and down the edge 7e-e74 ,repeat this exercise until you can get it absolutely accurate4 ,all surfaces should be 8square0 and smooth4 ,these operations are constantly necessary and must be accurate or your joints will show unsightly cracks4 ,while1 on the other hand1 when you have mastered this exercise1 you have accomplished a great deal1 as you will appreciate a little later4 ,,halved ,,joint4 ,so far we have not required our material to be of any particular dimensions when finished4 ,we should now be able to square up to given dimensions1 which is1 of course1 necessary in most cases4 ,it is in this exercise4 ,therefore1 remember to get your material out a trifle larger than the dimensions given for the finished work in order to leave room for squaring4 ,the purpose of this exercise is to join two pieces of equal thickness which cross each other at right angles1 and have them flush top and bottom2 the pieces to be of the exact dimensions given1 fitted closely on both sides1 each piece exactly in the center of the other1 both sides to be perfectly smooth and even when finished and the ends planed square4 ,to do this get out two pieces which square up as in ,ex4 ,i to #c in4 wide1 #a in4 thick and #ab in4 long each4 ,choose and mark working face of each4 ,find the center 7#f in4 from each end74 ,measure #a in4 each way from the center and mark across the working face of one piece and bottom of the other piece 7a-a7 and 7a-a74 ,now set your marking gauge to half the thickness of the piece 7 in47 and mark the bottom of your cut as in ,ex4 ,,ii 7b-b74 ,do not forget that the working face of both pieces must be up4 ,therefore1 the cut is made on the working face of one piece and the bottom of the other4 ,proceed to saw and chisel out as in ,ex4 ,,ii1 when1 if accurately done1 the pieces will fit together perfectly making a cross with all four arms exactly the same length4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,iii4 ,you will use this joint often in furniture and can make the pieces cross at any angle by using the sliding ,t bevel set at the angle you desire for marking across the tops and bottoms of the pieces and the try square for the edges4 ,accuracy is essential both as to dimensions and work4 ,,mortise ,,and ,,tenon4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,iv4 ,the mortise and tenon are used more than any other kind of joint in furniture4 ,therefore great patience and care are justified in learning to make them nicely4 ,when the end of one piece is to be joined to the side of another1 the mortise and tenon are almost always used4 ,the mortise 7,no4 #a7 is an opening1 square or oblong1 to receive the tenon and may go part way or all the way through4 ,when part way it is called a 8blind0 mortise2 when all the way a 8through0 mortise4 ,the tenon 7,no4 #b71 is a projection on the end of the other piece1 which fits into the mortise4 ,it generally has two shoulders1 but may have three or four1 made by cutting away the sides4 ,it should be about one-third the thickness of the piece4 ,in furniture it is fastened with glue1 and where advisable with a wooden pin also4 ,the objects of this exercise are that the pieces be straight and accurately squared to the measurements2 that the tenon be exactly in the center of the joint2 that the pieces be square to each other when joined2 that the tenon fit the mortise exactly without squeezing2 that the shoulders fit up to the cross pieces nicely and that when joined the two pieces be perfectly flush at the joint4 ,the method is as follows3 ,square up two pieces to #a in4 #c in4 #ab in4 long each1 take one piece for the mortise piece1 turn it on edge and find the middle4 ,measure #a in4 7a-a7 each way from the middle and mark across with knife and try square4 ,as the tenon is to be one-third the thickness of the piece set your marking gauge in4 deep and mark a line parallel with the side between these two lines 7b-b7 and 7b-b71 being careful not to run over the line4 ,turn around and mark other side of the mortise in the same way4 ,you now have the mortise marked on one edge4 ,to mark it exactly opposite on the other side1 mark across the flat side of the piece very lightly at the end lines and across the other edge at these lines4 ,this will give you the end lines on the other side4 ,mark the side lines with the gauge as before4 ,lay the piece aside and take the tenon piece4 ,now1 as your mortise piece is #c in4 wide1 your tenon will have to be #c in4 long and you will want a little extra to smooth off the end1 so better measure a trifle over #c in4 from the end1 the piece being on edge and mark across 7c-c74 ,from this line mark square across top and bottom sides4 ,also across the other edge4 ,this gives the shoulder line for the tenon4 ,take the gauge1 which is set at in41 and mark parallel with the flat sides from these shoulder lines to the end 7d-d7 7d-d71 and this will give the thickness of the tenon4 ,lay aside the piece and put the mortise piece in the vise edge up4 ,with your in4 chisel and mallet cut your mortise part way through1 then turn the piece over and cut from the other side4 ,remember to keep the flat side of the chisel towards the edge of the hole and leave a slight margin all the way round4 ,when you have cut the mortise clear through in this way1 take your in4 chisel and true up to the lines1 the sides first and then the ends4 ,see that all four sides of the mortise are straight through from side to side or the tenon will jam4 ,lay aside the piece and take tenon piece4 ,lay it flat side down and cut tenon exactly the same on both sides as you did the half tenon in ,ex4 ,,ii4 ,insert tenon through the mortise and plane off the end flush with the mortise piece4 ,now look carefully over your work and see if it fulfills all the objects of this exercise4 ,do it over until it does4 ,do not get discouraged4 ,it is a mighty nice operation and when you can make this joint properly you may be proud for it is a step beyond simple carpentering and belongs to the ,joiners' and ,cabinet ,makers' art4 ,,panelling4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,v4 ,panelling is used in doors1 the ends and backs of furniture1 etc4 ,it may be more or less ornamented with beading1 moulding and so on1 but in the best modern furniture all ornament is omitted and the panels absolutely plain4 ,the objects of this exercise are to make a frame #ac in4 #ag in4 #a in4 thick with two sunken panels2 that it shall lie perfectly flat when put together2 be smooth and true at all joints and exact in dimensions4 ,the method is as follows3 ,get out a piece which will finish to #a in4 #c in4 #fj in4 ,joint and square to required thickness1 also square up one edge only4 ,set in the vise with the squared edge up4 ,set your gauge in4 deep and mark along the top edge in4 from and parallel with the side farthest from you4 ,then turn it around and mark other side4 ,this will give you the width of the rabbet 7see end view ,no4 #d71 in which the in4 sunken panel will slide4 ,to cut this rabbet use your in4 rabbet plane and plow 7cut7 #a in4 deep4 ,if you have a ,stanley ,no4 #de or ,no4 #ee it has a fence to guide it1 but if you have only a wooden rabbet plane you must use a straight strip of wood to guide the plane4 ,there are several ways of fastening this strip4 ,the easiest way is to brad it on to your work along the gauge line1 but this leaves the brad holes4 ,the best way is to take a strip a little longer than your work and fasten a block on each end of it which will drop down over the ends of your work1 then wedge it tight at each end4 ,in this case the strip must be stout enough1 of course1 not to bend as you plane against it4 ,when you have plowed an inch deep1 turn your work around1 move guide to other side1 and with your in4 rabbet plane plow the other in4 to be taken out1 making the rabbet in4 wide4 ,be sure to plane square or the panel will not lie flat4 ,when plowed cut this piece into two pieces #ah in4 long for the sides of the frame and three pieces #h in4 long for the top1 bottom and middle4 ,plow one of these #h in4 pieces1 which you intend to use for the middle bar1 on the side opposite the one already plowed1 as it will have a panel on each side of it 7see ,no4 #f74 ,now cut a tenon #a in4 long by in4 thick on each end of all three #h in4 pieces1 just as you did in ,ex4 ,,iii 7see ,nos4 #b and #c74 ,for the panels saw from an inch board two pieces #e in4 #h in41 dress them down to in4 thick4 ,put one of the #ah in4 frame pieces in the vise with the rabbet up4 ,insert the tenon of an #h in4 piece in the rabbet in4 from the end1 with the rabbet in itself turned so as to receive the panel4 ,with your in4 auger bit bore a hole straight through the frame and tenon in4 from the edge of the frame in the center of the tenon1 as at 7a7 ,no4 #a4 ,make a round plug to fit this hole1 sand paper it smooth and drive it in gently4 ,this will hold the tenon in place4 ,slide a panel into this rabbet and down into the rabbet in the frame piece4 ,next slide the center piece in so the rabbet fits over the panel and the tenon in the rabbet in the frame4 ,bore and pin like the first one1 then insert the other panel and end piece in like manner4 ,now take the remaining #ah in4 frame piece and fit it down snug over the tenons and panels1 leaving in4 margin at each end4 ,pin each of the three tenons1 being careful to hold the shoulders snugly against the frame and the piece tight down on the panel4 ,cut the pins off flush and sand paper smooth4 ,now put the whole frame in the vise and with your plane trim to exact size4 ,when you can do this exercise so that all joints are perfect1 all surfaces flat1 smooth and even1 and all dimensions correct and have mastered the exercises before it you can pretty nearly make furniture4 ,there is one thing more1 however1 which is important1 a little difficult and frequently required1 and that is dowelling and joining4 ,,dowelling ,,and ,,joining4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,vi4 ,for this exercise practice will do more for you than instruction4 ,the object of the exercise is to join two boards at their edges so as to make a continuous surface with no crack or unevenness at the joint1 as in table tops1 etc4 ,you will be called upon for this operation whenever you make any piece of furniture with a plain surface more than #h to #aj inches wide4 ,the method is as follows3 ,take two pieces in4 #f in4 #cf in41 select working face of each4 ,find the center of each and with knife and try square mark across the edge to be joined as at 7a74 ,measure #ab in4 each way from center 7b-b71 and mark4 ,take your marking gauge1 set it half the thickness of the board 7 in47 and mark a fine point in4 below the working face on the knife marks1 as at 7c74 ,with brace and in4 bit bore a hole #a in4 deep exactly square into edge of the board at each point1 as at 7d74 ,repeat the process in the other board4 ,these holes are for the dowels 7e-e-e71 which are pins that keep the boards from wabbling at the joint and also hold them together4 ,you will appreciate1 therefore1 that if the holes are not exactly straight in1 the pins will lean and not fit into the holes on the other piece1 or else tip it one way or the other4 ,to make the dowels square up a piece in4 square and #i in4 long1 then round it with your smoothing plane and sand paper to exactly in4 diameter1 or1 in other words1 to fit the holes tight without jamming4 ,cut into #c in4 lengths with back saw4 ,before inserting the dowels the pieces must be jointed4 ,to do this turn one on edge in the vise and square up the top edge 7f-f7 with your jack plane4 ,observe strictly directions given in ,chapter ,i for planing4 ,when you have the edge precisely square and straight lay aside and square one edge of the other piece4 ,when this is done1 before taking it out of the vise1 test it by standing the other piece on it with the squared edges together and working faces turned the same way4 ,test the surface of the two boards by holding the back of your steel square across the two1 seeing that it touches at the two edges and at the joint and that no least crack shows on either side4 ,now insert your dowels and the joint will be true4 ,this is a difficult exercise and requires much practice1 but its accomplishment brings the keen delight of work well done4 ,,mitring4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,vii4 ,the mitre is used to form a joint where two pieces come together at right angles and make a corner4 ,the end of each piece is cut at an angle of #de degrees 7,no4 #a74 ,to make this joint1 you will want your mitre box which you can now make with comparative ease4 ,it must be precise to be of use4 ,it is a box without ends or lid 7,no4 #b71 and made as follows3 ,get out three pieces in4 #d in4 #ah in4 ,joint and square them4 ,select working face of each4 ,firmly nail sides to bottom1 all faces inward2 #c in4 from end mark with knife and try square across top of both sides 7a-a74 ,from this line mark in same way straight down the outside of the side towards you 7b-b74 ,with back saw cut down this line till you strike the bottom of the box1 starting your saw in the mark 7a-a7 on top of the two sides4 ,now measure #d in4 farther from same end and mark across the tops of sides 7c-c74 ,then #d in4 farther and mark as before 7d-d74 ,take your steel square or other perfectly straight edge laid diagonally across the tops of the sides from 7c7 to 7d7 and 7d7 to 7c7 just at the points where these marks run off the insides of the edges and mark the tops of the sides at this angle 7#de degrees74 ,now mark square down the outside nearest you 7d7 to 7e71 and 7c7 to 7f74 ,with your back saw cut diagonally across in the marks on top and straight down the mark on the side to the bottom of the box4 ,the cut straight across is for a guide for your saw in cutting square ends and you can use it also for the shoulders of tenons4 ,the #de-;degree cut is for guiding your saw when cutting mitres1 like the corner of a picture frame4 ,you will realize1 then1 that the sides of the bottom piece must be carefully squared or the sides of the box will not be square to the bottom1 and it must be exactly #d in4 wide or your angle will not be true and your mitres will not fit4 ,if at any time you need a mitre box to take wider material make the bottom wider and proceed otherwise as above1 except that the space on the inside face of the sides between the diagonal cuts must always be exactly the same as the width of the bottom4 ,in use1 remember that if you plane anything off the outside edge of a mitred end you make the piece shorter and anything off the inside makes it longer1 as you will readily understand by experimenting a little4 ,therefore1 you must be careful to have your piece of the proper dimensions before mitring or else allow for this in its length4 ,,dovetailing4 ,to make an accurately lifted dovetailed corner is good evidence of a workman's ability to use tools4 ,there are three kinds3 ,first1 common dovetailing 7,fig4 #a71 where strength is more important than appearance1 as in box corners1 etc4 ,the pins and tails should be of equal size and about as wide as the material is thick4 ,the pins are the parts widest on the inside face of the piece 7a-a-a7 and the tails are the parts which are widest at their ends 7b-b74 ,second1 lap dovetailing 7,fig4 #b71 which shows only from the side as at the front ends of drawers4 ,the tails are always on the side piece and should be two to four times as large as the pins4 ,there is no rule for size4 ,use a size that is strong1 looks well and divides the space evenly4 ,always begin and finish with a half pin4 ,third1 the mitre dovetail1 not illustrated1 which is hidden altogether4 ,it is much more difficult to make and not so strong as the others4 ,you will have no use for it4 ,cut your pins first and mark the tails from them1 then if you make a slip you can correct it before marking the tails and after you have had some experience you can learn to cut the tails without marking the bevels4 ,illustration3 ,exercise ,no4 ,,viii4 ,the object of this exercise is to make a lap dovetail joint1 as of a drawer front4 ,get out one piece in4 #e in4 #ab in4 when jointed and squared1 for the front of the drawer and one piece in4 #e in4 #ab in4 for the side of the drawer4 ,select working faces which will be the insides4 ,set your marking gauge a shade less than the thickness of the side piece and see that the marker is sharp4 ,now mark across the inside face of the front piece1 gauging from the end 7c-c74 ,this is the length of the pin4 ,the length of the tails 7which are on the side piece7 should be about the thickness of the front piece1 or about in4 in this case1 so set your gauge in4 deep and mark across the end of the front piece gauging from the inside 7d-d74 ,without changing your gauge mark a line across both sides of the side piece1 gauging from the end 7e-e74 ,place front piece in vise1 marked end up and face towards you4 ,with a pencil1 space out the tails1 which in this case will be about in4 wide1 making a half pin at beginning and end and three full ones between4 ,make them even distances apart1 of course1 and when you have located them set your ,t bevel at an angle of #a in #f and mark them accurately on the end of the front1 and with your try square continue these lines down to the gauge line 7c-c7 on the face4 ,take your back saw and cutting on the inside of the bevel lines saw down to the gauge mark 7c-c7 on the face1 but not beyond the gauge mark 7d-d7 on the end4 ,in other words1 you can only saw the corners4 ,make all cuts in one direction first1 then the others just as you would file a saw4 ,it is easier to be accurate this way4 ,next1 with your chisel clean out the spaces between the pins4 ,these spaces will be like a mortise1 open on the end and wider at the bottom than at the surface4 ,there will be a little space close in the corner where you cannot get the chisel1 clean this out with your knife4 ,remember not to cut quite to the line till the very last4 ,the pins are now complete4 ,lay the side piece 7,no4 #d7 on the bench face up4 ,stand the end on it with its inside face just covering the gauge mark 7e-e7 across the side near the end1 as illustrated4 ,hold it firmly and mark the side around the pins in the end piece4 ,place the side in the vise1 end up1 and square the tails across its end4 ,with the back saw cut the sides of the tails 7on inside of lines71 and lay on the bench and cut between the tails with your chisel4 ,if you have much dovetailing to do it is worth while to get a chisel bevelled on both sides and across the end1 like a lathe chisel4 ,it is easier to get into the corners with this4 ,put your pieces together and dress off the side till it is exactly flush with the front4 ,when you can do this exercise and the preceding ones accurately you can do about anything you will be called upon to do4 ,it is hard1 but worth while4 ,you will be able to make the common dovetail easily after this4 ,just remember1 in that case1 to make pins and tails the same size and about as wide as the thickness of the material4 ,chapter ,,iv4 ,,fastenings4 ,there are many ways of fastening the parts and joints of furniture4 ,among those most used are brads1 screws1 wooden pins1 shaping of the parts and glue4 ,glue is used in almost all joints4 ,use brads and screws very sparingly4 ,any other fastening is preferable in most cases4 ,if you do use the latter in any part that is visible1 first bore a hole from to in4 deep1 large enough to take a wooden plug to cover the head of the metal4 ,for fastening by shaping the parts there are many devices4 ,you have learned the mortise and tenon1 the dowel joint1 the mitre and the dovetail4 ,these will answer almost every requirement1 with glue in most cases1 and in some cases pins to hold them together4 ,when using glue there are several things to be observed4 ,it should not be too thick or too thin4 ,experience soon teaches you how thick to use it for each kind of work4 ,as a rule about as thick as thin syrup will be right1 but hard wood requires thinner glue than soft wood4 ,if the pieces are very cold they should be warmed and the glue always used hot4 ,when the joint is such as admits rub the parts together1 and in all cases clamp tight to force out the surplus glue and hold the joint until the glue is dried4 ,it should stand #h to #ab hours before being handled4 ,to glue end grain first size it1 that is1 put on a coat of glue1 allow it to dry and then proceed as above4 ,use the best furniture glue1 though the prepared glues are good and very convenient1 but if you use the latter get a small quantity1 as it is better to use it hot and it loses strength by frequent heating4 ,to prepare glue use a glue pot which is like a double boiler4 ,put as much as you think you will use in the inside pot and cover with cold water4 ,let it soak six or eight hours1 then put the smaller pot in the larger one with water in the outside one and heat until the glue is hot4 ,glue can be made to stand the weather by adding one part boiled linseed oil to eight parts glue1 stirring all the time1 or else use skimmed milk instead of water in the glue4 ,chapter ,v4 ,,dressing ,,off ,,and ,,smoothing4 ,as a rule it is better to leave the final dressing off till the joints are all made and glued or otherwise fastened1 so that in case there are any little inaccuracies the pieces can be planed smooth4 ,this always has to be done with a glued joint1 either with plane or scraper1 or both4 ,the scraper is simply a flat piece of thin steel about #c in4 #e in4 ,the best ones are cut from an old saw1 but you can buy very good ones4 ,to sharpen a scraper lay it on a flat board and rub the side of the edge with a piece of hard steel 7your nail set is good7 laid flat on it1 then take it up and draw the steel firmly along the edge4 ,this makes it flat on the sides and edges but turns up a little sharp edge4 ,use both hands with the scraper and tip it in the direction you are pushing it and scrape a little across the grain4 ,it is well to scrape all surfaces to take out any plane marks or nicks and it saves work when sandpapering4 ,sandpaper with coarse1 then fine sandpaper1 or steel wool1 always rubbing with the grain4 ,it is hard to be sure that your work is quite smooth before it has any coloring on it1 as the shadows are very light4 ,look across it towards the light both ways1 as the shadow is always away from the light1 of course4 ,if in doubt1 rub some more4 ,the finish of furniture is of the utmost importance and it should be absolutely smooth before anything is put on it4 ,even the fine sandpaper will make scratches which show on a polished surface if not always rubbed with the grain4 ,have horizontal work between you and the light2 vertical work stand between light and work4 ,with oak it is well to moisten to raise fibre1 then rub again when dry4 ,when you are satisfied and doubly satisfied that not a least blemish remains1 and not before1 then proceed to put on your finish4 ,chapter ,,vi4 ,,staining1 ,,dyeing1 ,,filling1 ,,polishing4 ,for coloring the wood wipe-stain is perhaps the easiest and quickest and is very satisfactory4 ,you can get it at any paint store ready for use4 ,put it on with a brush of convenient size for the work and immediately wipe off with old rags or waste4 ,it will not show brush marks and do not be frightened if it is much darker than you expected before it is wiped off4 ,if the first coat does not make it dark enough1 allow it to dry #ab hours and apply a second coat4 ,after the last coat has dried #ab hours or more1 and it is thoroughly hard1 if on fir or similar wood1 you may proceed to polish4 ,if your material is oak or other open grain wood you will need to apply a filler1 which you can also get at the paint store4 ,this should be of the same color as the stain and put on in the same way4 ,when it turns dull1 which will be in a few minutes1 wipe off all on the surface4 ,this will leave the pores filled4 ,allow filler to dry at least #ab hours before polishing4 ,the best and easiest polish1 as well as the most beautiful1 is wax4 ,to prepare this shave beeswax into a pan1 add as much spirits of turpentine as will moisten it through1 and powdered white resin1 in proportion of one part resin to sixteen parts wax4 ,dissolve on stove1 being careful not to let it catch fire4 ,stir it up and when cool it is ready for use4 ,roll some cloths into a ball1 smooth on the outside1 and use to apply the polish4 ,put the polish on very thin and evenly1 allow it to dry a few hours1 then with a clean ball of cloth 7preferably woolen7 rub at first gently with the grain1 then harder in a circular motion and finally a few strokes with the grain4 ,after #ab hours rub again with dry cloth1 and if a higher polish is desired apply a second coat of wax as before4 ,this polish will improve with age and occasional rubbing4 ,instead of the wipe-stains you can use wood dyes which come already prepared4 ,they sink farther into the wood and do not wear off as soon1 but on the other hand are much harder to apply evenly4 ,the filler1 however1 will take off some of the dye and you can sometimes even up a little any dark spots when rubbing down the filler4 ,the dye does not take so long to dry as the wipe stain1 six hours being plenty4 ,polish as above4 ,the filler in both cases will darken the color a little4 ,do not forget this in applying your stain or dye1 and in some cases you will not require any other coloring than the filler itself4 ,of this you can judge by the color you desire and a little experimenting4 ,the hard glossy finish is not used on this kind of furniture and is very much more difficult to handle4 ,in case you desire to use it on anything proceed as follows3 ,put into a glazed vessel a little gum shellac1 just cover with #ij per cent alcohol4 ,stir till dissolved1 about two hours1 though not necessarily all the time4 ,do not use a tin vessel4 ,do not allow lumps to settle4 ,when thoroughly dissolved take soft cloths and make a ball about #b in4 in diameter smooth on the bottom4 ,put on this half a teaspoon of the polish1 then around the ball put a piece of cloth about a foot square1 holding the ends in your hand4 ,on the smooth side put a few drops of linseed oil and rub your work lightly in a circular motion all over4 ,when it rubs harder put a few drops more oil on the ball and also on the work4 ,watch carefully4 ,if the cloth sticks to the work1 thin the polish on the ball with a little alcohol1 first taking off the outside cloth4 ,replace the outer cloth with the other side out4 ,when the work is all filled with polish and has a good gloss1 change the outer cloth for a clean one4 ,put a few drops of alcohol on it and proceed as before till the oily look has gone4 ,too much alcohol will wipe off the polish in splotches4 ,when the ball leaves little or no mark rub fast and strong with the grain a few minutes and you are done4 ,this finish improves with age also1 but requires practice to apply properly4 ,to describe the numberless methods of coloring and finishing woods would fill a book several times the size of this one4 ,the above are the best1 quickest and most easily learned4 ,,piano ,,or ,,organ ,,bench4 ,illustration3 ,,piano ,,or ,,organ ,,bench ,piano or ,organ ,bench3 ,this seat is very easy to make and much handsomer than the ordinary piano stool4 ,lumber required #aj ft4 #a in4 #ab in4 and #g ft4 #a in4 #c in4 ,illustration3 7,bench ,plan7 ,first1 get out the end pieces to dimensions given4 ,cut the mortises for the ends of the stretcher as shown1 the top of the lower mortise 7a7 #f in4 above the floor and the top of the upper mortise 7a7 #ah in4 above the floor4 ,the tenon on the stretcher has only one shoulder1 as shown at 7c74 ,next cut a rabbet in4 deep for the seat to fit in across the inside face at each end1 just above the upper mortise as shown by dotted lines at 7d74 ,then round the corners and cut the handles and arches in the bottoms with the compass saw4 ,next get out the seat exactly the same width as the ends and in4 longer than the space between the ends to allow for the in4 in the rabbet at each end4 ,the stretchers 7b7 are1 of course1 in4 shorter to their shoulders than the seat for the same reason1 though #c in4 longer including the tenons4 ,to cut the holes for the pins1 insert the tenon through the end and mark across it on the outside just where it comes through the mortise1 then take it out and bore a hole about in4 in diameter on this line so that when the tenon is inserted through the mortise one-half of the hole will be outside4 ,you can thus make your pins round and by splitting them in half have two pins4 ,all sharp edges should be rounded off a little with the plane so they will not be so easily marred4 ,smooth thoroughly before putting together4 ,the seat is held in place by two screws from underneath through the upper stretcher into the seat4 ,these screws should be near the ends of the stretcher and well into the seat1 but be very careful they do not go through the seat4 ,,plant ,,stand4 ,illustration3 ,,plant ,,stand ,illustration3 7,plant ,stand ,plan7 ,plant ,stand3 ,lumber required #d ft4 #a in4 #ab in4 ,cut the top from one end of your board4 ,then lay out the four legs marking the top of one next the bottom of the other to save sawing and the four will just about take up the width of your board4 ,the two stretchers will cut out of the remaining lumber leaving you a piece about #f in4 wide to spare4 ,smooth up the edges of the top and take off the sharp corners with your plane4 ,next shape the legs cutting the rabbet in4 deep for the top to fit in1 then the mortises for the tenons on the stretcher4 ,next shape stretchers1 halving them together where they cross and making the tenons about one-third as thick as the material itself1 and shaped as in the drawing4 ,smooth thoroughly before putting together4 ,fasten the tenons with glue and the top either with a plug glued in as at 7a71 or with screws sunk and covered by a plug as at 7b74 ,this plug should be about one-half inch diameter and allowed to project about in41 the end being rounded as in illustration4 ,this stand made about #bg in4 high1 #bc in4 in diameter1 makes a pretty tea table4 ,,magazine ,,stand4 ,illustration3 ,,magazine ,,stand ,magazine ,stand3 ,lumber required #bj ft4 #a in4 #ab in4 ,get out ends first to dimensions given4 ,cut mortises for the tenons on the ends of the top and bottom shelves1 the top of the lower ones #e in4 above the floor and the top of the upper ones #ce in4 above the floor4 ,these shelves do not fit in a rabbet4 ,next cut rabbets in4 deep for the other two shelves1 the top of the lower one being #ae in4 and the top of the upper one #be in4 above the floor4 ,cut holes for pins as described in directions for piano bench4 ,the brace 7a71 below the lower shelf has no tenons and no rabbet but just fits snug and is set back from the edge of the shelf about an inch1 as shown by dotted lines in end view4 ,is fastened by two screws from underneath as shown4 ,these screws need not be plugged1 as the holes will not show4 ,illustration3 7,magazine ,stand ,plan7 ,make the tenons on the ends of the lower shelf about #b in4 wide and about #a in4 for the upper tenon1 the tenons being full thickness of the shelves4 ,,music ,,cabinet4 ,illustration3 ,,music ,,cabinet ,music ,cabinet3 ,lumber required #ab ft4 #a in4 #ab in41 #f ft4 #a in4 #d in41 #b ft4 in4 #i in41 #ad ft4 in4 #a in4 and #d ft4 in4 #ab in4 ,illustration3 7,music ,cabinet ,plan7 ,note that the top and bottom shelves are rabbetted in4 into the sides1 and held by screws from the outside covered by plugs4 ,the door is made with panel in4 thick4 ,the three middle shelves are adjustable1 that is1 may be set at any height by cutting notched uprights of the in4 #a in4 material and screwing them to the sides of the case1 as shown in side view at 7a71 and cross pieces to fit in these notches and support the shelves at 7b74 ,the shelves are not fastened at all but the corners cut out to fit round these uprights and rest on the cross pieces 7b74 ,the support under the lower shelf 7c7 is simply fitted in and fastened with screws from underneath4 ,it will look well to set the door in about of an inch from the front edge of the sides and top and bottom shelves4 ,piece 7c7 should also be set in of an inch4 ,the back should be fitted between the sides and fastened with screws covered by plugs4 ,any kind of catch may be used1 but a square wooden knob bevelled to a point on the outside and cut to fit a round hole and fastened with glue in the door1 as illustrated at 7d71 will appear best4 ,if this knob is used get a friction catch and set it in the top of the door4 ,,hall ,,seat4 ,illustration3 ,,hall ,,seat ,illustration3 7,seat ,plan7 ,hall ,seat3 ,lumber required #ab ft4 #b in4 #ab in41 #cf ft4 #a in4 #ab in4 ,the ends are of the #b in4 #ab in4 material dowelled and glued4 ,the box under the seat has two tenons on each end of back and front1 which may either come through flush with the outside of the ends or not quite all the way through if preferred4 ,these tenons should be about #b in4 wide1 full thickness of board and are fastened with glue and wooden plugs straight in from the front and back4 ,note that the box front and back 7a7 is set in about an inch from the edge of the seat4 ,the seat itself is hinged to a #c in4 strip 7b7 side view at the back1 and has a piece 7c7 across each end about #b in4 wide same thickness as the seat and flush with it1 instead of battens underneath1 to keep it from splitting4 ,the bottom of the box 7d7 fits inside resting on a square strip at each end which is screwed to the ends of the seat4 ,the back is rabbetted into the sides and fastened with screws from the back as at 7e74 ,this back is made of three boards1 as at 7f71 and fastened with screws4 ,note that the edges of these boards are planed to an angle of #de degrees1 then the lower edge of each is just planed off so that when put together there is a little ,v at the joint4 ,this makes an easy and good looking joint1 as no crack will be visible1 while at the same time it does not require the care and time necessary in the ordinary joined edges4 ,this seat will be found very convenient in the hall for rubbers1 etc41 if you have a galvanized pan made to fit in the bottom of the box4 ,,hat ,,tree4 ,illustration3 ,,hat ,,tree ,illustration3 7,hat ,tree ,plan7 ,hat ,tree3 ,lumber required #af ft4 #a in4 #f in41 #f ft4 #d in4 #d in4 ,the #d in4 #d in4 is1 of course1 for the post which should be bevelled to a point at the top as shown4 ,the feet are made by gluing three pieces of the #a in4 #f in4 together1 as shown at 7a71 and then sawing to shape with compass saw4 ,it will save work to allow the middle piece to project about #a in4 for a tenon to fit into mortise in the post1 as shown at 7a74 ,the arch in the bottom of the feet need not be cut all the way across but simply take the corner off1 as at 7b71 which shows the inner end of a foot4 ,this taking the corner off saves work1 gives a firm footing and has all the appearance of being cut clear across4 ,to make the coat and hat hooks take a piece of the #a in4 #f in41 as at 7c71 cut a jog about #a in4 deep in the lower inner corner for a shoulder1 measure #f in4 from the inner end along the top edge to 7d74 ,using this as a center1 with your compass mark the half circle 7e71 which should be #c in4 in diameter2 #d in4 from the inner end of the piece and #c in4 below the top edge take another point 7f7 and describe a circle #c in4 in diameter as before4 ,next bore a #a in4 hole at 7d7 as near the edge of the board as the bit will work and a #a in4 hole at 7f74 ,with the compass saw saw round the outer circle at 7e7 until you come straight under 7d71 then saw straight to the top side of the hole 7f74 ,from the hole 7f7 slightly above its lower side1 so as to leave a little hook1 saw straight to the outer circle and then follow this outer circle until directly under point 7f71 then straight into the shoulder as illustrated4 ,fit these four pieces into mortises in post1 fasten with glue and pin as illustrated4 ,,dining ,,table4 ,illustration3 ,,dining ,,table ,illustration3 7,table ,plan7 ,dining ,table3 ,lumber required #aj ft4 #c in4 #c in41 #af ft4 #a in4 #d in4 and #ah ft4 #a in4 #ab in4 ,for the top join four pieces of the #a in4 #ab in4 #d ft4 long with dowels and glue4 ,allow it to stand at least twelve hours1 then cut circle and dress off the top with plane4 ,the stretchers 7a7 are halved together where they cross in the center of the table and mortised into the legs as shown4 ,stretchers 7b7 are also halved together at center and shaped and mortised as shown4 ,it adds to the appearance if you put a pin in the top of these stretchers where they cross as shown at 7c74 ,this pin may be either square or round4 ,the top is fastened with screws from underneath through the stretchers 7a74 ,these screws need not1 of course1 be long enough to reach entirely through the stretcher1 but the heads may be sunk about #b in41 as shown at 7d74 ,,chair4 ,illustration3 ,,side ,,chair ,chair3 ,lumber required #ab ft4 #a in4 #d in41 #ab ft4 #a in4 #b in41 #d ft4 in4 #b in41 #c ft4 #a in4 #a in4 ,illustration3 7,chair ,plan7 ,first get out the back posts from a piece of #a in4 #d in4 to dimensions given4 ,cut the mortises for the back slats1 seat frame and spreaders at positions indicated in sketch4 ,the upper rail in the back should be about of an inch below the top of the side posts and by following the dimensions given in drawing you will get the position of the lower rail4 ,the three upright slats in the back should be mortised into the top and bottom rail1 as indicated by dotted line1 but may be mortised full thickness and so save cutting a tenon1 though if you do cut a tenon it perhaps saves more time1 as you do not have to be so careful in cutting your mortise1 which is covered by the shoulder of the tenon4 ,when you have got out the back posts1 next make the front posts1 cutting your mortises exactly the same height from the floor as those in the back posts4 ,then get out the side rails and put these pieces together4 ,the tenons on the side rail should be as long as possible without going quite through the leg1 as they take all the strain when the chair is tipped back4 ,having glued the two sides of the chair together next get out the top and bottom rail of the back and fit and glue the three slats into them4 ,then get out the other rails of the back and front and glue them in one side of the chair4 ,then put on the other side of the chair and the frame is complete4 ,the seat is what is known as a slip seat and is made and upholstered separately1 then slipped into the frame of the chair4 ,the inner frame for this seat is shown at 7a7 by dotted lines4 ,it is made of the #a in4 #b in4 stuff firmly mortised and glued at the corners and rests on four brackets at the corners of the frame1 as shown by dotted lines4 ,it should be a full th of an inch smaller all around than the frame in order to allow it to slip into the frame after the leather seat has been tacked on4 ,this leather seat is made by tacking strips of strong webbing or canvas about #c in4 wide over the top of this inner frame4 ,interlace these strips like basket work1 leaving little or no space between them and stretch tightly over the frame4 ,with soft cotton1 hair or other padding laid evenly over the whole surface1 being careful to leave no hollows and making the center a little thicker than the edges1 build up your seat as thick as you want it4 ,then stretch the leather or other covering tightly over both padding and frame and tack it firmly on the under side of the frame4 ,to cover the webbing and ends of the leather1 tack a piece of black cloth over the whole bottom1 then slip the seat into the frame4 ,some workmen put a pin through the leg and tenon where the rails are mortised into the legs4 ,this adds strength1 but we think is hardly necessary if your tenons fit properly and are strongly glued4 ,,morris ,,chair4 ,illustration3 ,,morris ,,chair ,morris ,chair3 ,lumber required #h ft4 #b in4 #b in41 #ad ft4 #a in4 #f in41 #ad ft4 #a in4 #b in41 #e ft4 in4 #aj in4 ,illustration3 7,chair ,plan ,top ,view7 ,illustration3 7,chair ,plan ,side ,view7 ,first get out the posts4 ,cut the mortises1 as indicated1 for the seat frame4 ,put the sides together1 fastening the arm on top of the posts by a screw down through the arm into the top of each post4 ,this screw1 of course1 is to be covered by a plug1 or if you desire mortise the top of the post through the arm making a square tenon mitred to a point on top of the arm4 ,next put in the front and back rail4 ,screw a strip 7a7 side view on the inside of the side rails and slats 7b-b-b7 resting on these strips to hold the seat cushion4 ,the back is made separately and hinged on to the top of the back rail of the frame4 ,it rests against a bar which fits into notches in the arms1 as shown at 7c71 the bar itself being shown at 7d74 ,note that the arms project about #a in4 inside of the posts and therefore are rounded out to the post at the back1 where the back of the chair comes up between them4 ,we would suggest your having the cushions made at an upholsterer's1 as it is difficult to make good cushions yourself4 ,in imitation leather these will cost about #aj4jj and in genuine ,spanish leather about #bj4jj4 ,,library ,,table4 ,illustration3 ,,library ,,table ,library ,table3 ,lumber required #bf ft4 #a in4 #ab in41 #aj ft4 #a in4 #h in41 #bj ft4 about #a in4 or #a in41 square4 ,illustration3 7,table ,plan ,side ,view7 ,illustration3 7,table ,plan7 ,first select three pieces #e ft4 long of the best of the #a in4 #ab in4 for the top4 ,join these with dowels and glue4 ,when dry fasten four strips on the under side with glue and screws1 as shown at 7a7 in side view and bottom view4 ,these strips should be set back about in4 from the edge of the top and mitred at the corners4 ,they strengthen the top and give it a massive appearance4 ,next get out the ends4 ,the pieces 7b7 and 7c7 are exactly the same4 ,to mark the curve place one point of your compass at the corner formed by the dotted lines at 7d7 and with the other point mark the curve1 the points being #c in4 apart4 ,the upright pieces 7e-e7 are mortised into the top and bottom pieces and are made as shown at 7f74 ,the shelf should be made before the table is put together1 the position for the tenons being marked by placing the end of it against the mortises in the uprights after the end is put together4 ,the ends are fastened to the top by means of a square strip which is screwed to the top and then the ends screwed to the strip1 as shown at 7g7 side view and bottom view4 ,the tenons in the ends of the shelf should be about #a in4 wide and full thickness of the shelf1 which will make them square4 ,the pins for these tenons are shown at 7h7 and should be about in4 thick4 ,special ,designs ,use the following blank pages for pencil sketches and clippings4 ,we will furnish working plans1 with full instructions for any piece of furniture you may desire at #ej;c4 each4 ,just send us a rough sketch or a picture1 giving your idea4 ,the ,farm ,orchard ,publishing ,co4 ,illustration3 7,union printing mark3 ,allied ,printing42 ,trades ,council2 ,union ,label2 ,spokane ,wash47 ,spokane1 ,washington4 ,,transcriber',s ,,note ,illustrations in this e,book have been positioned between paragraphs and outside quotations4 ,illustrations without captions have had a description added1 this is denoted with parentheses4