,transcriber's ,note ,italic text displayed as3 italic ,bold text displayed as3 bold ,illustration3 ,,red ,,cedar1 ,,austin1 ,,texas ,,cedar ,,chests ,,how ,,to ,,make ,,them ,,ralph ,f4 ,,windoes ,formerly ,instructor of ,manual ,training1 ,davenport ,high ,school1 ,davenport1 ,iowa4 ,author of 8,shop ,sketching10 8,architectural ,drawing for ,secondary ,schools10 8,drafting ,instruments and ,how to ,use ,them10 ,etc4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,,second ,,edition--,,enlarged4 ,,milwaukee ,,the ,,bruce ,,publishing ,,company ,copyright #aiah-aiba by ,the ,bruce ,publishing ,company ,,preface ,believing that the popularity of the cedar chest as a cabinet making project has reached considerable proportions1 the author has endeavored to embody under one cover all information necessary to the design and construction of a variety of chests4 ,in addition to this mechanical aspect of the work1 he has presented some information of educational character on red cedar as a wood1 and something of interest concerning the development of the chest4 ,as information of this character has been lacking in the past1 he hopes that the book will meet with the approval of teachers who will use it in their work4 ,acknowledgment is due to the ,forest ,service for the use of the illustrations in ,chapter ,i1 to two of the author's students1 ,otto ,j4 ,teegen and ,james ,a4 ,kelly1 for the great assistance rendered by them in the preparation of the drawings1 and to the ,metropolitan ,museum of ,art1 ,new ,york ,city1 for permission to reproduce photographs of historic chests in its collections4 ,r4 ,f4 ,w4 ,,contents ,,chapter ,,page ,i ,red ,cedar #i ,,ii ,cedar ,chests #ae ,,iii ,how to ,build a ,simple ,chest #ag ,,iv ,cedar ,chest ,designs #ca ,v ,the ,finishing of ,cedar #gh ,,vi ,copper ,trimmings #hb ,,vii ,matting ,boxes #ij ,illustration3 ,this chest came over on the 8,mayflower40 ,,chapter ,i ,red ,cedar ,the botanical name for red cedar suitable for chest construction is ,juniperus ,virginiana1 or ,southern ,juniper1 as it is familiarly known4 ,commercially1 it is sold as 8,tennessee ,red ,cedar40 ,there are other cedar woods but none of them should be used in chests if the great advantages of cedar are to be derived1 and especially should the 8western cedar0 be avoided1 as it is very common and easy to purchase1 yet it has no value as a wood for cedar chest construction4 ,southern ,juniper may aptly be called the 8wood imperishable10 since1 under ordinary conditions1 it will never decay4 ,placed as shingles with copper nails1 there is little doubt but that it will last for ages1 or until the attacks of rain and wind have weathered it away4 ,until recent years one of its greatest uses has been in telegraph poles1 fence posts1 greenhouses1 etc41 where constant contact with damp earth would soon rot away a less durable wood4 ,now1 since the rapid rise in the value of red cedar has almost prohibited its use1 cypress1 8the wood eternal10 has largely succeeded it4 ,,log ,,houses ,,of ,,red ,,cedar ,when ,america was settled1 one of its most valued natural resources was found in the red cedar belt of the ,south4 ,settlers migrating to this region found the straight cedar logs perfectly suited to cabin construction1 consequently the best trees were felled and utilized in the building of ,america's first homes4 ,as times went on and the settlers prospered1 the logs were taken from the houses1 and assembled into barns1 frame construction taking their place in the homes4 ,today1 these old logs1 perfectly preserved1 are purchased by lumber men1 as some of the most select red cedar lumber is manufactured from them4 ,a great many of these old logs have been cut up into lead pencil slabs1 as cedar is the best wood that has ever been found for lead pencils4 ,it is straight grained and easily cut with a knife1 the two necessary characteristics4 ,another source for pencil supply has been found in the rail fences1 so common in the ,south1 practically all of which were constructed of split cedar rails4 ,this wood is so highly prized by pencil makers that many fences have been bought up at such prices that modern fences have taken their places1 leaving a comfortable profit for the owner4 ,,where ,,red ,,cedar ,,abounds ,the geographical range of red cedar is very wide and hard to define4 ,roughly speaking1 it can be found westward to ,minnesota1 south to ,florida1 and southwest through ,texas4 ,the finest forests were originally found in middle ,tennessee1 in ,davidson1 ,rutherford1 ,bedford1 ,marshall1 and ,warren ,counties1 with a considerable quantity in the breaks of the ,cumberland plateau and in ,eastern ,tennessee4 ,there was considerable red cedar also in ,southern ,virginia1 ,north ,alabama and in ,georgia1 while some is found in ,arkansas in the ,ozark ,mountains4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,red ,cedar and ,loblolly ,pine2 ,occasional ,scrub ,pine in the ,background4 ,southern ,maryland ,these belts are still the most reliable source of supply1 some of them having been cut over a great many times4 ,second growth1 although it is stunted1 more knotty1 and contains more sapwood than first growth1 finds a market in fence posts and a very little in furniture construction4 ,,depletion ,,of ,,the ,,cedar ,,supply ,the supply of ,southern ,juniper in this country1 both first and second growth1 is rapidly being depleted4 ,there is no reason why this condition should exist4 ,the early settlers1 anxious to clear their lands1 destroyed it ruthlessly1 it is true1 yet it lends itself so readily to reforestation that it is difficult to surmise why steps to maintain its constant supply were not taken long ago4 ,about two hundred years ago1 a ,swedish naturalist1 ,peter ,kalm1 after traveling over the settled portion of the country1 wrote at some length upon the splendid qualities of red cedar1 and prophesied its early extinction unless steps were taken to replenish the supply4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,red ,cedar4 ,longitudinal ,section1 ,magnified #gf times4 ,in ,poor ,richard's ,almanac for #agdi1 ,benjamin ,franklin urged the people to plant and foster the growth of red cedar4 ,he was of the opinion that the rapid clearing of the land1 the constant need of wood for fuel would soon destroy the slow-growing oaks and other hardwoods1 and that 8it would be to our advantage to endeavor to raise some other kind of timber that will grow faster or come sooner40 8,the red cedar 7a species of juniper7 ,i take to be the most profitable tree for fencing and several other uses that we can raise in our country1 considering how easily it may be raised from seeds1 its readiness to grow on most kinds of soil1 its quick growth1 the profits it will afford while it is arriving at maturity1 and the long duration of the wood when grown to a proper size for the materials we want for our several occasions in husbandry and building4 ,i know of no other tree that will grow so well on such different soils as this will1 for upon our sandy beaches1 which are nothing but beds of sand1 they grow as thick as possible1 from whence many thousand posts for fencing are brought into ,pennsylvania and ,york governments1 and ,i have seen1 in a great many swamps upon a branch of the ,susquehannah1 great trees growing1 near #ah inches diameter1 #gj feet high1 and very straight4 ,and the inhabitants near the mountains1 upon ,hudson ,bay1 make a great use of them for making large hovels or barracks to put their corn in before it is threshed4 ,they will grow well in high gravely or clay soil1 in rich or poor1 or even upon a rock1 if there be but half a foot of land or earth upon it4 ,it is much to be valued for its quick growth from seed1 the little sap and much durable heart1 which is acquired sooner than any tree that we can raise on common land4 ,indeed1 the mulberry and locust are of quick growth in very rich land1 but not upon poor40 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c ,fifty ,year ,old ,cedar1 ,job's ,swamp1 ,ocean ,county1 ,new ,jersey ,that the predictions of ,kalm and ,franklin have been substantiated is a well known fact since the cedar of commercial size grown in the ,eastern and ,new ,england ,states--of which they spoke--has long since been exhausted4 ,neither knew of the extensive cedar growths in the ,south and ,west1 yet the original growth of these regions is very near exhaustion4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,mature ,cedar ,brake ,along ,road4 ,no ,underbrush1 but the ,young ,cedar ,seedlings ,fill all ,gaps4 ,marble ,falls1 ,burnet ,county1 ,texas ,luckily1 our efficient ,forest ,service is at this time doing everything in its power to encourage reforestation of the cedar tracts1 and the future of the red cedar tree looks more promising than the present4 ,,characteristics ,,of ,,red ,,cedar ,as has been intimated1 red cedar is a very durable wood4 ,it is also light1 straight grained1 does not warp readily1 will dry out rapidly1 takes a beautiful finish1 and has a most pleasant aroma1 but one which is moth and insect repelling4 ,moths shun the red cedar1 as other insects shun the pennyroyal herb4 ,these favorable characteristics all combine to make red cedar the ideal wood for chest construction4 ,chests must be light1 yet strong2 good to look upon when finished2 of such flat stock that the finish on one side alone will not cause the wood to warp2 and they must be moth proof4 ,southern ,juniper furnishes all of these desirable points1 and in addition its pleasant aroma permits the immediate wearing of apparel taken from the cedar chest without airing1 as must be done with garments protected by moth balls4 ,illustration3 ,small ,carved ,wood ,chest of ,venetian ,make 7,sixteenth ,century7 ,,chapter ,,ii ,cedar ,chests ,the chest1 or coffer1 has had a varied existence4 ,its present popularity was preceded by a period in which new chests were a rarity4 ,previous to this time--taking us back to our great-grandmothers' days--the chest1 in the form of the 8dower chest10 was the proud possession of every girl with vision4 ,why its popularity suffered is hard to surmise1 unless it was relegated as being 8old-fashioned10 and1 therefore1 obsolete4 ,in recent years those in society who make things fashionable have restored it to its place of usefulness and beauty1 and today there are very few girls whose possessions do not include a chest4 ,,old ,,italian ,,chests ,long before the era of convenient furniture1 chests1 or coffers1 were the one article of utility in every home4 ,in them was kept clothing1 valuables of every description1 and even food-stuffs4 ,in early days1 these chests were crude1 ugly affairs1 made for utility alone4 ,later1 especially in ,italy1 they developed into articles of beauty4 ,this development reached its height at the time of the ,renaissance when the greatest artists of the day took up the decorating of them4 ,carving and painting1 furnished to the wealthy at great expense1 produced articles whose magnificence is astounding4 ,these beautiful chests were usually presented to ,italian 8brides-to-be10 who kept their dowry of rich velvets1 magnificent brocade1 and other treasures of maidenhood safely under their covers4 ,with the ever-changing ideas of humanity1 the beautiful chest lost its popularity1 and some wonderful specimens of ,renaissance artistry were relegated to the scrap heap4 ,a few were saved--perhaps for the associations they suggested--eventually to be prized and handed down from generation to generation1 preserved in the national museums1 or homes where wealth permits the collection of old furniture4 ,,new ,,england ,,chests ,in quaint old ,new ,england1 the seventeenth century bride considered her future happiness to depend largely upon the contents of her 8dower chest40 ,every maid had one--sometimes more than one--in which she assiduously collected her trousseau--her beautiful handmade linens1 her gorgeous silks and satins1 preparatory to the day of her ascension into home-making4 ,nothing1 perhaps1 in her interesting life could she recall1 in later days1 as vividly as her old dower chest1 and nothing1 perhaps1 did she prize as highly4 ,in those days few chests were made of cedar--oak being the wood preferred4 ,using the chests1 as did the old-time bride1 merely to assemble her trousseau1 its storage properties were not considered as they are today4 ,,present ,,day ,,development ,why the chest lost its popularity is hard to determine4 ,it may be that moths1 developing in the oak chest and devouring its contents1 were a determining factor1 or it may be simply a passing whim of society that relegated the chest4 ,when red cedar came into favor as the universal chest material1 repelling moths and other insects1 and permitting of most beautiful finishes1 the chest returned to its own4 ,the present-day mother--the far-sighted mother--is instilling the dower chest notion into the hearts of her children as did her great-grandmother years ago4 ,it is not a sentimental whim which prompts her to do this1 it is strictly a utilitarian one4 ,girls1 the majority at least1 will some day marry4 ,if they have a chest they will sew and save to fill it1 if not1 they may come to the altar unprepared1 or purchase at one time those things that their own labor and years of association should endear to them4 ,even if they never marry1 bachelor girls must clothe themselves1 and some even fit up small apartments in which to live1 hence this saving will not be a loss4 ,cedar chests may be purchased ready made1 of course1 but their rather high price prohibits their possession by some4 ,manual training students or home craftsmen will find in the chest a most attractive project of construction1 and one made by a boy as a present to an older sister will give the chest1 in her sight1 an added charm4 ,,chapter ,,iii ,how to ,build a ,simple ,chest ,it is naturally assumed that the builder of a cedar chest knows the fundamental tool processes1 as a project of this kind is no task for an absolute beginner to attempt1 hence but little attention will be paid to processes that would ordinarily be known by the graduate of a grammar school4 ,,the ,,mill ,,bill ,chest ,design ,number #a1 illustrated in perspective in ,fig4 #e1 and whose working drawing appears in ,fig4 #f1 is of very simple construction4 ,its stock can be purchased glued-up and sandpapered1 coming to the builder as in ,fig4 #g1 almost ready to assemble1 or the boards can be secured surfaced on two sides1 to be jointed1 doweled1 and finished by hand4 ,both methods will be considered in this chapter4 ,the stock list1 if the wood is to be glued-up and sandpapered at the mill1 should comprise the following pieces3 #b pcs4 red cedar for sides 0 #ah0 #ch0 #b pcs4 red cedar for ends 0 #ah0 #ai0 #b pcs4 red cedar for top and bottom 0 #bj0 #dj0 #a pc4 red cedar for feet 0 #b0 #fj0 #c pcs4 red cedar for inside strips 0 0 #cf0 #d pcs4 red cedar for inside corners #a0 #a0 #ah0 #a pc4 red cedar for handles #a0 #b0 #ab0 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #a ,fig4 #f ,an exact checking of the mill bill and the working drawing will show that an allowance has been made in some instances that will need to be cut to fit by the builder4 ,for example1 the sides are 0 wider and about #b0 longer than the working drawing calls for4 ,this allowance has been made so that the craftsman can secure exact dimensions with perfectly square ends4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g ,as surfaced and machine sanded stock is specified1 all that remains for the builder to do is to square up the ends and edges1 cut the feet and handles1 and assemble4 ,,sides ,,and ,,ends ,plane one edge of each side and end perfectly straight and square with the surfaces4 ,check these for 8working edges40 ,measure over #ah0 and with a straight-edge1 mark the width on each4 ,plane carefully to this line1 keeping the edges square across4 ,with the steel square1 holding the blade against the working edges in each case1 square lines across one end of each piece about 04 ,saw about 0 outside of these lines and plane down to them1 testing constantly with the try-square across the end grain and the steel square1 the blade of which is held against the working edge4 ,when perfectly straight and square1 measure down #cf0 on the sides and #af0 on the ends1 square lines across1 and repeat the sawing and planing4 ,,top ,,and ,,bottom ,the top and bottom pieces are squared up in exactly the same way1 but they finish #bj0 #ch04 ,the upper surfaces of each have their edges and ends carefully rounded1 using a radius of 04 ,this is accomplished by planing and sandpapering with a rather coarse and then a fine sandpaper4 ,these parts are now ready to assemble1 but this will not be discussed until the hand finishing of stock is described4 ,,jointing ,,and ,,gluing ,,wide ,,stock ,if stock that has been machine surfaced on two sides is purchased for the chest1 the builder doing his own gluing1 the following stock will be needed3 #cj board feet red cedar1 surfaced two sides to 0 #a pc4 red cedar for inside corners #a0 #a0 #gb0 #a pc4 red cedar for handles #a0 #b0 #ab0 ,,sawing ,,up ,,the ,,stock ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h ,the stock will come in pieces from #d0 to #aj0 wide and from #h ft4 to #ab ft4 long4 ,place the strips side by side on the saw horses1 and work combinations whereby the greatest saving of stock will be affected4 ,there should be about #b0 allowed for jointing and squaring1 making the sides and ends1 rough1 #bj01 and the top and bottom #bb04 ,saw off the lengths1 allowing about #b0 over-length in each case4 ,save the sawed-off ends1 if they are #g0 or over in length1 for the feet4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i ,,jointing ,mark each piece 8,side ,a10 8,side ,b10 8,end ,a10 8,end ,b10 etc41 so that they will not become mixed4 ,begin with one side1 putting all other stock away4 ,determine by a plane stroke or two which way the grain runs in each piece1 and mark this direction by means of arrows1 as in ,fig4 #h4 ,also1 number the adjacent edges4 ,assuming the position of ,fig4 #i1 carefully run the jointer plane over all edges that come together4 ,hold it down on the knob1 when starting a cut1 and hard on the handle when finishing4 ,keep the sides of the plane parallel to the sides of the board being planed4 ,a few strokes should make the edge perfectly straight with the grain1 when it should be tested with the try-square to be certain that it is square with the surfaces4 ,when it is straight as to length and square across1 lay it aside and place the edge it is to join within the vise4 ,do exactly the same with this edge1 and test it by placing the edge formerly planed down on top of it1 ,fig4 #aj4 ,sighting toward the light will show whether or not exact work has been accomplished4 ,high spots will be easily detected and planed off4 ,if there is a long1 thin opening in the center of the two edges1 it may be left1 as the clamps will close it and when the wood dries out1 end-opening of joints will be prevented4 ,but this opening must not be more than #a_/fd0 as the clamps might not pull it down and hold it if it were greater4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj ,repeat with the other edges1 and when all boards for one side have been joined1 place them into position and test with the steel square1 as in ,fig4 #aa4 ,if they do not combine to form a straight surface1 those edges that are not square across grain must be planed4 ,,doweling ,although stock jointed and glued up at the mill is not doweled1 stock hand jointed must be4 ,use 0 dowel pins1 placed about #h0 apart1 the end pins starting about #c0 from the ends of the boards4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa ,to lay out the dowel holes1 place the edges that are to be joined back to back in the vise4 ,with a sharp knife and the try-square1 square lines across the grain4 ,mark intersecting-lines with the grain with the marking gauge1 running the spur in the exact center of the edges4 ,at the intersections of the gauge and knife lines1 bore 0 holes about #a0 deep in both boards1 ,fig4 #ab4 ,slightly countersink these holes4 ,cut the dowel pins about #a0 long1 point their ends a little1 and cut a shallow groove along the edge to allow the surplus glue to escape1 and thus prevent splitting the boards4 ,,gluing ,place the boards in position on the saw horses near the glue pot4 ,have the glue heated--if hot glue is used--and all clamps in position at hand4 ,remember that you can not stop to look for anything when the hot glue is once applied4 ,pieces this narrow will have little tendency to buckle1 especially if the bar clamps are put on opposite sides1 but it may be wise to have four hand screws ready with battens cut the correct length in case they do4 ,dip the dowels1 one at a time1 in the glue and drive in place along one edge of each board4 ,quickly tip this edge and its mate up1 and apply a thin layer of glue to each4 ,drop them into position and drive them together4 ,repeat with the other edges1 and place the bar clamps in position1 as ,fig4 #ac illustrates4 ,tighten the clamps until all the surplus glue is squeezed out1 and apply the hand screws if the boards show any tendency to buckle4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab ,it is well to warm the boards slightly if hot glue is used4 ,in case cold glue is used1 allow it to stand ten or fifteen minutes before applying the clamps4 ,it will stick better4 ,,surfacing ,after all six wide pieces have been glued up in the above manner and allowed to dry over night1 the clamps are removed and the surfaces smoothed up4 ,scrape off as much glue that has dried on the surfaces as possible1 as hard glue will dull the plane bit4 ,begin with a very sharp jack plane1 and plane the surface down smooth4 ,cross-planing is allowable on red cedar on account of the knots1 but be very careful not to rip up deep grooves4 ,when planed as nearly flat as possible1 scrape with a sharp cabinet scraper4 ,this should not be held in the hand1 but should be used in a scraper plane4 ,scraping should remove all rough spots from the wood4 ,finally1 sandpaper the entire surface with ,no4 #a sandpaper1 and finish with ,no4 #j4 ,,squaring ,,up ,cut these pieces to dimensions and square them up as has already been described for the mill-glued stock4 ,pieces that have been ripped from the edges should be saved4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac ,,assembling ,fig4 #ad illustrates various joints used in chest construction4 ,with the simple design taken as our model in this chapter1 we will employ the plain butt1 nailing the pieces together with #h;d finishing nails4 ,it will be noticed from the working drawing that the sides are nailed onto the ends4 ,to prevent splitting1 a number of small holes should first be drilled through the sides4 ,apply glue to the ends before driving the nails in place4 ,illustration3 ,,joints ,,used ,,in ,,chest ,,construction ,,plain-,,butt ,,dado ,,and ,,rabbet ,,rabbet ,,dove-,,tail ,fig4 #ad ,when the sides and ends have been assembled1 cut a stick the length of one diagonal of the box1 and use this to test on the other diagonal4 ,if the box is square1 both diagonals will be the same length4 ,place the bottom side up and screw the bottom to the sides and ends4 ,use #a0 ,no4 #h flat head screws well countersunk4 ,bore the holes through the bottom rather large to allow for any expansion or contraction1 and use about twelve screws4 ,,triangular ,,corner ,,strips ,in the inside corners of the box1 triangular strips should be securely glued4 ,they are made by ripping on the diagonal of the #a0 square pieces1 and should be made #ag0 long1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,they help to strengthen the chest4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae ,,feet ,the working drawing gives a detail of the feet4 ,two pieces #g0 long and #b0 wide are cut to shape as shown4 ,their adjoining ends are mitered1 glued1 and nailed4 ,on the inside corner a block #a0 square is glued to help strengthen the joint and to carry the caster4 ,these feet are screwed onto the bottom piece4 ,,handles ,handles may be purchased1 but they are so easily made that they are not worth the expense involved4 ,the working drawing gives a detail of a good shape1 but this is only a suggestion4 ,the inside is gouged out for a finger hold4 ,the handles are attached with flat head screws from the inside of the box1 and glued4 ,illustration3 ,,methods ,,of ,,making ,,the ,,chest ,,dust-,,proof ,fig4 #af ,,the ,,cover ,a good chest is dust-proof4 ,there are three ways of rendering it so illustrated in ,fig4 #af4 ,the first has false edges glued around the under edges of the top1 this false edge extending down over the sides and ends4 ,the third has a strip fastened to the top inside of the edges and ends1 while the second is a combination of the other two4 ,in our example1 the third method will be employed4 ,cut two strips #cd0 long from stock 0 square1 and two pieces #ae0 long4 ,screw and glue them in place4 ,,hinging ,two plain butt hinges #ba0 long with a 0 leaf will do on this chest4 ,they may be let into both the top and the upper edge of the side piece1 or entirely into the edge4 ,another method often used in schools is that of placing the hinges on the outside of the back and the under side of the top4 ,this is the most simple as it involves no chiseling1 and1 since the chest is usually placed against a wall1 does not look bad1 especially if an ornamental hinge is used4 ,two chains or desk supports should be used to prevent the lid from swinging way back and straining the hinges4 ,see ,fig4 #eb1 ,chapter ,,vii4 ,,finishing ,directions for finishing and preparing the wood for finish are given in ,chapter ,v4 ,of course the nails should be well set and filled as explained4 ,illustration3 ,a ,french ,chest of the ,late ,,xv ,century 7,gothic ,period7 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #b ,fig4 #ag ,,chapter ,,iv ,cedar ,chest ,designs ,variety in design is so essential in cabinet making classes that a number of different styles of chests are presented in this chapter4 ,although a great many teachers follow the practice of giving the student a working drawing to follow1 it is recommended that the designs herewith presented be used only as models--that from them each boy will combine1 and add his own ideas to evolve what may be called 8an original design40 ,only by so doing will the student derive his greatest benefit from the work4 ,,design ,,no4 #b ,in ,fig4 #ah is presented a perspective of the chest whose working drawing is given in ,fig4 #ag4 ,this chest is very similar to ,design ,no4 #a described in the previous chapter4 ,its dimensions are practically the same1 but in this case1 the ends are fastened to the sides1 and the end grain--appearing on the front--is covered by a curved piece of cedar #a0 wide4 ,the feet also differ as the detail shows4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #c ,fig4 #ai ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj ,,design ,,no4 #c ,in this design we have a larger chest than the previous1 but whose construction is the same4 ,the end grain1 appearing on the front1 is covered with strips of copper4 ,these may be put on as corners extending over the ends also1 or merely as plates on the front1 as ,fig4 #bj illustrates4 ,the feet are detailed with ,design ,no4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #d ,fig4 #ba ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb ,,design ,,no4 #d ,one of the most popular chest designs is illustrated in ,fig4 #ba4 ,in this1 the edges are rounded1 giving it an easy1 graceful appearance4 ,it requires careful1 accurate work1 as the joints can not be covered with strips or copper as with the previous styles4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #e ,fig4 #bc ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd ,,design ,,no4 #e ,in ,fig4 #bd is shown a chest whose design permits it to be used as a window seat when covered with a cushion4 ,its appearance is very attractive as it has heavy1 massive ends1 giving it an air of solidity4 ,the ends can be built up flush1 as the drawing1 ,fig4 #bc1 illustrates1 or paneled4 ,a 0 strip is glued to the front edge of the top1 making it appear to be as thick as the ends4 ,the drawings illustrate copper plates on the front1 but1 if good work is accomplished1 these may well be omitted4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #f ,fig4 #be ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf ,,design ,,no4 #f ,a paneled chest1 ,figs4 #be and #bf1 looks well when accurate work has been done4 ,it1 of course1 means a great deal of mortising and routing1 but1 where power machines are available1 does not consume a great amount of time4 ,a chest built up as previously described with 0 strips glued on will give the same effect4 ,a study of both drawings will make the construction clear to the average student4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #g ,fig4 #bg ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh ,,design ,,no4 #g ,design ,no4 #g1 ,figs4 #bg and #bh1 is a rather odd design from the fact that it contains a drawer4 ,it is built in the usual manner1 but has two bottoms and an opening in the front for the drawer to slide into4 ,it should be built of cedar throughout1 but a slight saving can be effected if the lower bottom is of a cheaper wood or even a frame4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #h ,fig4 #bi ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj ,,design ,,no4 #h ,this chest involves a little turning1 but otherwise its construction is simple4 ,a 0 piece is set into the upright end pieces of stock #a0 #a01 and another piece mortised in between them at the top4 ,this latter piece has had a handle turned in its center1 and two round tenons on its ends4 ,these tenons are glued into holes bored in the uprights4 ,fig4 #bi makes this construction clear4 ,aside from this1 the construction is very similar to ,design ,no4 #e4 ,,design ,,no4 #i ,at first glance1 ,fig4 #cb presents a chest of difficult design1 yet a careful understanding of its construction will show it to be quite simple4 ,the box is built up with plain butt ends1 and four corner legs are cut out according to the detail on ,fig4 #ca4 ,a right angle groove is cut into the center of each leg1 and this fits over the corners of the chest4 ,glue and long screws from the inside of the box hold them in place1 as detailed in ,fig4 #cc4 ,the little brackets shown in the perspective are doweled onto the legs after the latter have been fastened in place4 ,at the top and bottom strips of small moulding may be cut by hand1 or special mill orders will secure it from the dealers4 ,the panels are made of similar mouldings but these may be omitted if desired4 ,the top shows a raised panel4 ,there are two methods used to secure this effect4 ,in the most simple1 the 0 top is built up and another1 thinner piece1 glued over it4 ,if the shop has a veneer press1 this method is very easy4 ,of course there is excessive weight when this construction is used4 ,the alternate method is to build up a frame with either mortised or mitered ends1 and set the 0 top into this frame4 ,it can be secured with nails and glue from the under side4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #i ,,detail ,,of ,,leg ,,alternate ,,methods ,,of ,,building ,,up ,,top ,fig4 #ca ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb ,illustration3 ,,details ,,of ,,design ,,no4 #i ,,section ,,of ,,moulding ,,method ,,of ,,fastening ,,corners ,,to ,,box ,,bracket ,,doweled ,,to ,,corner ,fig4 #cc ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #aj ,,detail ,,of ,,leg ,,detail ,,of ,,moulding ,fig4 #cd ,,design ,,no4 #aj ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce ,figs4 #cd and #ce illustrate a chest of the ,william and ,mary period style4 ,it is built up as the others have been with plain butt joints1 and over the corners1 as with ,design ,no4 #i1 the legs are fastened4 ,these are turned on a wood lathe1 a quarter of the pieces being cut out4 ,they can be cut after the turning is finished1 or before4 ,the latter plan is the more simple1 as a frame must be constructed to hold the legs while being sawed if they have been previously turned4 ,if the section is removed before turning it is a good plan to make the two circular saw cuts through the middle of the piece without cutting through to the ends4 ,this will permit good centers to be obtained1 and it may prevent excessive chipping of the edges4 ,the wood can be removed when the ends are cut off on the lathe1 or they may be carefully chiseled out4 ,the panel effect is secured with small mouldings mitered at their corners4 ,these may be omitted1 if desired1 without spoiling the appearance of the chest4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #aa4 ,fig4 #cf ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg ,,design ,,no4 #aa ,this chest is of very simple design1 and would not be too difficult a project for the average eighth-grade student4 ,the ends are butted against the front and back1 and fastened with fine finishing nails4 ,corner blocks are used on the inside1 of course4 ,the bottom is a mitered frame which is nailed to the box4 ,the handles are worked out from small pieces of stock1 #a0 thick4 ,the top is built up with a mitered frame1 securely glued and nailed4 ,fig4 #cf is the working drawing1 and ,fig4 #cg presents a photograph of the finished chest4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ab4 ,fig4 #ch ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci ,,design ,,no4 #ab ,figs4 #ch and #ci illustrate a chest very similar in construction to those already described1 but one differing in mode of trimming4 ,in this project ,decalcomania transfers are successfully used1 a description of which will be found in ,chapter ,,vi4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ac4 ,fig4 #dj ,illustration3 ,fig4 #da ,,design ,,no4 #ac ,this very attractive chest is identical in construction with ,design ,no4 #ab1 but in this case the chest is embellished with two well designed metal corners fastened with large-headed brass or copper nails4 ,it will be noted that no corners are used at the back2 however1 it would not look out of place to fasten plates on the ends to give the appearance of corners4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ad ,fig4 #db ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dc ,,design ,,no4 #ad ,the only unique parts of the chest illustrated in ,figs4 #db and #dc are the feet4 ,after carefully forming them1 they should be attached to the chest bottom before it is fastened to the box1 as in this way the screws used to hold them can be evenly distributed4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ae ,fig4 #dd ,illustration3 ,fig4 #de ,,design ,,no4 #ae ,in ,figs4 #dd and #de we have a number of departures from the chests previously described4 ,the most noticeable of these is the edge around the top1 which is built-up from strips one and three-fourths inches square4 ,the edges of these strips are carefully rounded and the outside tapered in toward the bottom4 ,another point to note is that the feet are not set in or out from the body of the chest1 but are so fastened that they give the appearance of flush sides and ends4 ,these latter are mitered together at the corners4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #af ,fig4 #df ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dg ,,design ,,no4 #af ,this chest is almost identical in design with ,no4 #ac1 excepting that it has an overhanging top4 ,when the box has been completed1 a cove moulding is glued and bradded flush with the upper edges1 and the top fitted over this moulding4 ,as it is impossible to secure this moulding already cut from red cedar1 it will be necessary to put in a special order for it at the mill or to work it out with a combination plane4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ag ,fig4 #dh ,illustration3 ,fig4 #di ,,design ,,no4 #ag ,there is nothing unusual about this chest1 excepting possibly that it is longer than the average4 ,the top is built-up as described for ,design ,no4 #ae4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ah ,fig4 #ej ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ea ,,design ,,no4 #ah ,this chest is almost identical with ,design ,no4 #d4 ,it is built in the same manner1 but here we have ,decalcomania decorations applied1 and the dimensions differ4 ,when carefully constructed this is one of the most attractive designs in the series4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ai ,fig4 #eb ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ec ,,design ,,no4 #ai ,figs4 #eb and #ec present another chest with paneled ends1 and the sectional view in the working drawing shows the construction of them4 ,the rails are mortised into the post1 and on the front panel1 the wide edge is relieved by attaching a small quarter-round4 ,the end panel is set into the rails at the center1 hence it is not necessary to use the moulding here4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #bj4 ,fig4 #ed ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ee ,,design ,,no4 #bj ,with a proper selection of transfer designs1 this chest is one of the most attractive that it is possible to build4 ,its construction is simple and it has the wide curved pieces over the end grain that were first shown in ,design ,no4 #b4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #ba4 ,fig4 #ef ,illustration3 ,fig4 #eg ,,design ,,no4 #ba ,although larger than ,no4 #bj1 this chest is practically the same with the exception of its decoration4 ,decalcomanias are not used here1 but hinge plates and a well designed copper decoration on the front1 add the hit of relief so urgently desired4 ,illustration3 ,,cedar ,,chest ,,design ,,no4 #bb4 ,fig4 #eh ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ei ,,design ,,no4 #bb ,a paneled chest very similar to ,design ,no4 #f1 is shown in ,figs4 #eh and #ei4 ,in this case there are but two panels on the front and top1 and the ends are fitted with corner plates4 ,illustration3 ,,under-,,bed ,,chest ,fig4 #fj ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fa ,,under-,,bed ,,chest ,as its title indicates1 the chest design shown in ,figs4 #fj and #fa is meant to roll under the bed4 ,it is of very simple construction1 and most useful in small bedrooms and flats4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fb ,illustration3 ,,chest ,,of ,,drawers ,fig4 #fc ,,chest ,,of ,,drawers ,a chest of cedar drawers1 ,fig4 #fb1 has so many advantages that little need be said concerning it4 ,its additional room and separate compartments commend it highly4 ,its construction is exactly like the usual cabinet construction1 all parts1 wherever possible1 being mortised and tenoned together4 ,the detail of the drawer construction1 ,fig4 #fd1 shows the fronts to extend past the sides1 the edges being rounded4 ,this gives the chest a most pleasing appearance and renders it dust-proof4 ,if desired1 the upper section1 instead of having a large drawer1 can have a false drawer front1 and a bottom put in4 ,the top can then be hinged and a high chest with two drawers will result4 ,or the top drawer may be divided into two smaller drawers with good effect4 ,illustration3 ,,detail ,,of ,,drawers ,fig4 #fd ,illustration3 ,fig4 #fe4 ,suggestive ,designs from ,commercial ,sources ,,suggestions ,,for ,,design ,figs4 #fe and #ff illustrate a few additional designs whose working drawings are not given4 ,they may offer suggestions worth while when the builder is designing his own4 ,the feet are especially suggestive4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ff4 ,suggestive ,designs from ,commercial ,sources ,,chapter ,v ,the ,finishing of ,cedar ,red cedar1 contrary to supposition1 is not a hard wood to finish4 ,having a closed grain1 it needs no filler1 which greatly simplifies its finishing4 ,the outside1 and the inner side of the cover--to prevent warping--should be finished2 never the inside of the chest4 ,,preparing ,,the ,,wood ,,for ,,finishing ,the cedar chest should be prepared for finishing as any other piece of furniture is prepared4 ,all glue and rough spots should be carefully scraped and sandpapered until the surface is entirely free from defects4 ,if the wood in the chest has been purchased glued up and machine sandpapered1 it will need a final sandpapering with ,no4 #j or ,no4 #jj sandpaper4 ,if worked down by hand1 it will need a great deal of scraping with a sharp scraper1 a preliminary rubbing with ,no4 #a sandpaper1 and a final rubbing with ,no4 #j1 working with the grain in each case4 ,careful dusting preparatory to the application of the first coat of finish is very necessary4 ,,filling ,,rough ,,spots ,as red cedar contains a great many knots1 planing the wood by hand--and occasionally by machine--causes rough spots to occur around the knots4 ,if these rough spots are shallow1 they can be scraped out and sandpapered1 but if they are deep1 they must be filled4 ,there are a number of methods of filling4 ,the most simple--and least satisfactory--method is to fill them with 8water putty10 a dry crack filler purchased in powder form and mixed with water4 ,when it has hardened it can be rubbed down with sandpaper and colored to match the surrounding wood4 ,as this color will fade in time1 this method is not recommended4 ,a better method is to fill them with a colored wood filler4 ,secure a small can of natural paste wood filler1 a little rose pink dry stain1 and some ,van ,dyke brown dry stain4 ,thin the filler with turpentine or benzine and add a quantity of the ,van ,dyke brown1 well stirred in4 ,compare this color with that of the knots around which you are going to fill and add the rose pink until the correct shade of red is obtained4 ,apply this filler to the knots1 and when perfectly dry1 sandpaper down to an even surface4 ,a third method--much slower than the other two--is the application of successive coats of colored shellac4 ,to the ordinary shellac1 add a little ,bismark brown dry stain until you get a color that will match1 when dry1 the wood surrounding the rough spots4 ,apply this and allow it to set4 ,sandpaper down and apply successive coats1 rubbing down evenly after each until a level surface is obtained4 ,repeated coats of thin shellac will look better and stick better than a few heavy coats4 ,,coloring ,,the ,,wood ,some people object to the white streaks of sap wood contrasting so strongly with the red heart wood1 while others are of the opinion that this contrast is one of the beauties of red cedar4 ,the author is of the opinion that the white wood is not objectionable if there is not too much of it4 ,just what quantity to allow is again a matter of personal choice1 so no hard and fast rule can be laid down4 ,to color the chest prepare an aniline dye stain of red and brown4 ,cover the entire piece with a thin coat1 then go over the lighter parts and streaks with a stronger coat4 ,if carefully done1 this should even up the color4 ,if the maker does not mix his own stains1 a red mahogany oil stain applied in the same manner will leave the same result4 ,thin the first coat out with benzine4 ,,wax ,,finish ,after filling and coloring1 if the latter is desired1 the kind of finish must be selected4 ,the most simple is the wax but it is very seldom used--almost never by cedar chest manufacturers4 ,but since it is often employed by students and home craftsmen it will be described4 ,over the dry surface apply a coat of thin shellac1 either white or orange4 ,when this has thoroughly dried1 rub it down lightly with ,no4 #jj sandpaper and apply a second coat4 ,when this has set1 repeat the rubbing1 being very careful not to rub through the coat1 especially on the edges and corners4 ,brush on the third coat of shellac and rub it down with a little boiled linseed oil placed on the ,no4 #jj sandpaper4 ,this should leave a smooth1 unpitted surface4 ,finally1 apply a coat of prepared floor wax and allow it to stand over night4 ,rub it briskly with a dry flannel cloth1 bringing it to a good polish4 ,if a still higher gloss is desired1 put on a second coat of wax and allow it to stand about thirty minutes before rubbing off4 ,this finish can be renewed from time to time with fresh applications of wax1 and has the advantage over the varnished surface of not showing scratches as readily4 ,,varnish ,,finish ,for a varnish finish apply but two coats of shellac in the manner described above1 and two coats of high grade rubbing varnish4 ,the temperature of the room in which the varnishing is accomplished should be #gj degrees ,f4 or over1 and perfectly uniform4 ,the room should be free from dust1 and kept free after the varnish has been applied4 ,use an oval varnish brush1 well dusted in the hand4 ,take up a brush full of the liquid as it comes from the can1 and1 starting from the center of the top1 spread it out to the edges4 ,where it drips over1 take up this surplus with the end of the brush4 ,the sides should be varnished by working down from the top edge4 ,the inside of the cover should be supported so that the air can circulate around it1 otherwise it would be very slow in drying4 ,allow about five days for the varnish to thoroughly dry in before rubbing it down4 ,then sprinkle powdered pumice stone over the surface1 and rub it with a felt pad 7about #d0 by #e07 moistened with water4 ,rub all surfaces while they are in a horizontal position if possible4 ,rub lightly and evenly with the grain1 and be very sure that you do not go below the coat in any place--edges especially4 ,wash the pumice stone off with water and rub dry with a clean cloth after which the second coat is applied in the same manner4 ,allow this coat about five days in which to dry when the polishing process can be started4 ,rub it down as before with pumice stone and water1 then remove the fine scratches left by the pumice stone by rubbing in a similar manner with rotten stone and water4 ,always rub with the grain if possible4 ,next1 moisten the hand with linseed oil and sprinkle a little rotten stone in it4 ,very lightly go over the entire surface with this combination1 rubbing with the grain4 ,when perfectly smooth1 clean the surface with a very soft cloth saturated with clean oil1 and rub dry with cotton batting4 ,to finish the polish1 go over the entire surface with another soft pad of cotton batting saturated with some good furniture polish1 or a thin mixture of linseed oil1 turpentine1 and sweet oil4 ,this should produce an extremely brilliant and satisfactory finish if good materials have been used and care exercised in their application4 ,,oil ,,finish ,if an oil finish is desired go over the wood1 after it has been filled and colored1 with a coat of hot linseed oil4 ,when thoroughly dry1 wipe off the 8grease spots10 if there are any1 and give the wood a coat of shellac4 ,this can be followed with a second coat of shellac1 rubbed down with pumice stone and oil1 or the varnish finish as described above can be applied over the second coat of shellac4 ,,enamel ,,finish ,there is a modern demand evinced for enameled and painted furniture1 especially in some of the ,period designs4 ,to meet this demand1 cedar chest manufacturers have recently introduced chests enameled on the outside1 and left natural on the inside1 the designs being made to correspond with various periods--,adam and ,william and ,mary being predominant4 ,old ivory--a soft shade of cream--is the most popular finish1 especially when decorated parts are striped with orange1 while black enamel1 striped with gold1 is second best4 ,these finishes are applied in the conventional manner--the ivory enamel being under-coated with flat white4 ,on school-made chests these finishes are not to be recommended4 ,in the first place1 they are only temporary fads--pretty creations to catch the popular fancy that may be 8old-fashioned0 next year4 ,and secondly1 there is no good reason for hiding the natural beauties of red cedar with enamels4 ,carefully selected wood1 with its wonderful contrasts of sap and heart wood1 certainly give color enough4 ,,lacquer ,,finish ,the wood should be prepared as directed in the preceding paragraphs1 and after it has been well dusted1 a coat of lacquer is applied4 ,this is the regular cotton lacquer 7banana oil71 and it must not be confounded with the wood lacquers now so extensively advertised4 ,when dry it is sanded lightly and given a second coat1 the spreading of which must be done quickly and without overlapping4 ,lacquer serves not only as a protection for the wood1 but it also acts to keep the odor of the cedar confined in the wood1 and it protects the wood against moisture better than any of the finishing coatings4 ,over this second coat1 apply a bit of thin wax1 or a coat of rubbing varnish1 as desired4 ,this method of finishing cedar chests is one of the most common in the furniture factories1 as it preserves the full beauty of the grain4 ,,chapter ,,vi ,copper ,trimmings ,after the finish on the chest has thoroughly dried1 any copper trimmings desired can be applied1 providing1 of course1 that the appearance of the chest will be improved by them4 ,if good joints have been obtained on the corners1 copper corners will help but little1 but if the joints are open1 well-designed corners will cover up the defects without detracting from the appearance of the chest4 ,as a rule1 handles of cedar1 well executed1 look better than metal pulls attached to the ends of the box1 but if metal corners are employed the pulls should also be of the same4 ,if a lock is attached1 it will need an escutcheon1 and hinge plates on the cover go well where the other metal trimmings are adapted4 ,sixteen-gauge copper is the metal usually employed4 ,brass looks well1 but it does not harmonize with the red cedar quite as attractively as copper4 ,the design should be first worked out on paper1 and transferred to the metal by using carbon paper4 ,care should be exercised with the designing4 ,a poor design looks worse than no design at all--copper bands with straight edges certainly give a pleasing appearance1 as ,fig4 #bi shows4 ,the student will do well to co-operate with the art teacher when designing his trimmings4 ,the illustrations in this chapter offer suggestions for design1 ,fig4 #fg showing escutcheons1 ,fig4 #fh pulls1 ,fig4 #fi hinge plates1 and ,fig4 #gj corners4 ,although these designs do not emphasize it1 the same motif should be used in every case4 ,for example1 straight bands across the top should not be used with fancy-sawed corners4 ,a reasonably plain hinge plate will not look well on a chest with very elaborate pulls and corners4 ,care should be given this designing that the different parts do not show incongruity4 ,,escutcheons ,the escutcheon can be small and plain1 or rather long and fancy4 ,fig4 #fg illustrates both kinds4 ,the design should be symmetrical about the vertical center line4 ,the key hole size is dependent upon the size of the key furnished with the lock1 and its distance from the upper edge is governed by the depth of the key hole in the lock4 ,illustration3 ,,escutcheons ,,shaded ,,portions ,,represent ,,sawed ,,out ,,parts #a ,,inch ,fig4 #fg ,illustration3 ,,pulls #a ,,inch ,fig4 #fh ,illustration3 ,,hinge ,,plates #a ,,inch ,fig4 #fi ,illustration3 ,,corners #a ,,inch ,fig4 #gj ,after the design has been carefully traced on the metal1 it should be cut out with a fine metal saw in a jeweler's saw frame4 ,the edges can then be filed smooth4 ,the inside cutting is accomplished by first drilling a small hole1 then inserting the saw and re-fastening it in the frame4 ,holes drilled for the tacks will complete the construction4 ,,pulls ,the backs of the pulls are sawed out exactly like the escutcheon1 the handle being the most difficult part to construct4 ,on the even wire design1 a piece of heavy round copper can be bent to shape4 ,it is fastened through a piece of thinner metal1 which1 in turn1 is spread out after passing through a slot sawed in the plate1 ,fig4 #ga4 ,those of uneven designs1 the first for example1 can be sawed and filed from a piece of copper #a0 thick1 or1 if the school teaches molding1 a wooden pattern the shape and size of the pull can be made1 a mold taken from it1 and a copper casting made in the mold4 ,a little filing and polishing will put the metal pull in excellent shape4 ,where the wire is thicker in the middle1 it can be hammered out or filed before bending1 as in ,fig4 #gb4 ,the boring of the nail holes in the plate will complete the construction4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ga ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gb ,,hinge ,,plates ,hinge plates are used on the cover to give the chest a more massive appearance4 ,they extend to the back edge1 or are bent over it4 ,after the design has been traced on the metal1 they are sawed1 filed1 and the nail holes drilled as before4 ,,corners ,corners are made like hinge plates with the addition of a right angle bend in the middle4 ,this bending is accomplished by placing the metal between two hardwood pieces screwed up in a vise1 and driving the upper half over with a mallet4 ,in some instances1 ,fig4 #ai is an example1 the corner does not go around the end1 a flat plate covering the end grain being fastened on the front only4 ,,finish ,the metal trimmings should be rubbed very briskly with fine steel wool1 and polished with water and pumice stone4 ,they will keep this polish if coated with banana oil or some other good lacquer4 ,this finish should be applied before the trimmings are fastened on the chest4 ,,nails ,copper nails with various size heads can be obtained1 or brass headed tacks copper coated can be used in their stead4 ,the copper plating can be done by any plating concern1 and at a very small cost4 ,,decalcomania ,,transfers ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gc ,chest ,decorated with ,decalcomania ,transfers ,a line of chests has recently appeared on the market with decorations that appear to be hand painted4 ,fig4 #gc gives an example4 ,this form of decoration results from the using of ,decalcomania transfers1 and1 since it is very attractive and easily applied1 deserves notice in this chapter4 ,the transfers are applied in colors to the ,decalcomania paper1 in which condition they reach the consumer4 ,the face of the transfer is sized with a thin coat of varnish1 the paper is placed in position on the chest1 and is then soaked off1 very much as the small boy soaks off the old-fashioned transfer pictures from his hand or arm4 ,the operation consumes but very little time and when properly done1 the decoration is as much a part of the piece as the finish itself4 ,it is applied over the final finish1 or it can be put on before the last coat of varnish is placed4 ,many excellent designs are available1 especially in marquetry and pearl inlay where the work has been reproduced so carefully as to challenge detection4 ,a chest decorated with a fine band of inlay lines of black and holly presents a wonderfully attractive appearance4 ,decalcomania transfers can be obtained only from the manufacturers4 ,the ,meyercord ,company1 ,inc41 ,chicago4 ,illustration3 ,an ,italian ,chest of the ,fifteenth ,century 7,made in ,florence about #adge7 ,,chapter ,,vii ,matting ,boxes ,fig4 #gd is from a photograph of a matting box--a form of chest construction not devoid of popularity1 as its neat appearance and simple construction make it worthy of considerable favor4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gd ,most matting boxes are made from wood other than cedar--cypress1 redwood1 etc4--most any stock that can be secured in wide pieces--thus doing away with gluing up4 ,the pieces are simply nailed or screwed together1 corner strips glued in1 and the matting applied4 ,such simple construction makes this a favorable project for grammar grade students4 ,,how ,,to ,,make ,a ,,matting ,,box ,california redwood is recommended1 as it is light1 straight grained1 and does not warp easily4 ,dimensions can be secured from the working drawings of the cedar chests given in the previous chapters4 ,the flat surfaces will need little planing by hand since they will be entirely covered on the outside4 ,the edges should be smoothly finished1 especially the upper edges1 and the under side of the top should be planed and sandpapered4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ge ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gf ,cut the sides and ends to the desired shape1 ,figs4 #ge and #gf offer excellent suggestions1 and square the ends of all four pieces4 ,nail or screw the boards together1 and glue in triangular corner strips on the inside4 ,nail the bottom in through the sides and ends1 making the nail holes in the ends about three times as wide as the nails to allow for expansion and contraction1 and give the sides a rather loose fit for the same reason4 ,fit the top carefully and round its upper edges4 ,if the board is not flat or glued-up from narrow pieces1 it may be well to glue and nail strips on its under side to straighten it and prevent warping1 as ,fig4 #gg illustrates4 ,shellac over the outside and inside of all pieces with at least two coats of shellac1 sandpapering the second on the inside4 ,this is also done to prevent warping4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #gg ,,putting ,,on ,,the ,,matting ,the natural colored floor matting without decoration of any kind is to be preferred4 ,trim off its thick edges1 and cut the pieces carefully to fit the surfaces1 planning on the seams coming where they will be covered with the strips of cane4 ,allow these pieces to soak in warm water for two or three hours1 then tack them to their respective surfaces4 ,use ordinary carpet tacks with large heads1 or matting staples4 ,stretch the matting very tight over the surface as the tacking proceeds1 and when the water dries out a perfect fit will be assured4 ,,covering ,,the ,,seams ,,and ,,edges ,split bamboo makes the best covering for the seams and edges1 as it blends so well with the matting4 ,small fish-poles may be secured1 soaked in hot water1 and carefully split with a sharp knife on a diameter1 as each section should be semi-circular4 ,split bamboo porch screens1 at one time so popular1 can be taken apart and used1 or strips may be purchased from a manufacturer of split bamboo fish-poles through some sporting goods dealer4 ,cut the strips the exact lengths desired1 being very careful to make good joints1 drill small holes where the nails will come1 and fasten with round-head brads or brass escutcheon pins4 ,curves that require much bending can be soaked in hot water until pliable before placing4 ,if a little decoration is desired on the bamboo1 hold it over a flame at intervals1 scorching the surface brown4 ,dust this off and shellac the strips before attaching them4 ,if it is impossible to secure bamboo of any kind1 small strips of any wood stained or white enameled will serve very well4 ,place the hinges and chain1 and the box is complete4 ,,making ,,the ,,box ,,moth-,,proof ,if a cedar chest has been constructed and poorly finished1 a covering of matting will greatly improve its appearance1 and without impairing its moth-proof qualities if it is not finished on the inside4 ,if an ordinary matting box has been made1 it can be rendered moth-proof by putting in a bottom of red cedar1 or covering the bottom with cedar shavings1 also mixing shavings in with the contents of the box when storing them4 ,illustration3 ,a chest used at the end of the ,fourteenth ,century ,,index ,page ,characteristics of ,red ,cedar1 #ad ,chest ,design ,no4 #b1 #ca ,chest ,design ,no4 #c1 #cc ,chest ,design ,no4 #d1 #ce ,chest ,design ,no4 #e1 #cg ,chest ,design ,no4 #f1 #ci ,chest ,design ,no4 #g1 #da ,chest ,design ,no4 #h1 #dc ,chest ,design ,no4 #i1 #dc ,chest ,design ,no4 #aj1 #dg ,chest ,design ,no4 #aa1 #di ,chest ,design ,no4 #ab1 #ea ,chest ,design ,no4 #ac1 #ec ,chest ,design ,no4 #ad1 #ee ,chest ,design ,no4 #ae1 #eg ,chest ,design ,no4 #af1 #ei ,chest ,design ,no4 #ag1 #fa ,chest ,design ,no4 #ah1 #fc ,chest ,design ,no4 #ai1 #fe ,chest ,design ,no4 #bj1 #fg ,chest ,design ,no4 #ba1 #fi ,chest ,design ,no4 #bb1 #ga ,chest of ,drawers1 #ge ,coloring the ,wood1 #gi ,copper ,corners1 #hh ,copper ,nails1 #hh ,copper ,pulls1 #hg ,copper ,trimmings1 #hb ,corner ,strips1 #bg ,cover1 #bi ,decalcomania ,transfers1 #hh ,depletion of the ,cedar ,supply1 #aa ,doweling1 #bb ,enamel ,finish1 #hj ,escutcheons1 #hb ,feet1 #bg ,filling ,rough ,spots1 #gh ,finishing1 #bi ,finishing ,cedar1 #gh ,finishing ,copper1 #hh ,gluing1 #bc ,handles1 #bg ,hinge ,plates1 #hh ,hinging1 #bi ,jointing1 #ba ,jointing and ,gluing1 #bj ,joints ,used in ,chest ,construction1 #bf ,lacquer ,finish1 #ha ,log ,houses of ,cedar1 #i ,making the ,box ,moth-,proof1 #ic ,making the ,chest ,dust-,proof1 #bh ,matting ,boxes1 #ij ,mill ,bill1 #ag ,new ,england ,chest1 #ae ,oil ,finish1 #hj ,old ,italian ,chests1 #ae ,placing ,bamboo1 #ib ,placing ,matting1 #ib ,preparing ,wood for ,finishing1 #gh ,present ,day ,development1 #af ,red ,cedar1 #i ,sawing ,up ,stock1 #bj ,sides and ,ends1 #ai ,simple ,chest ,design1 #ag ,squaring ,up1 #be ,suggestive ,designs1 #gg ,surfacing1 #bd ,top and ,bottom1 #bj ,under-,bed ,chest ,design1 #gc ,varnish ,finish1 #ef ,wax ,finish1 #gi ,where ,cedar ,abounds1 #i ,william and ,mary ,design1 #dg ,transcriber's ,notes pg #ae ,changed3 who kept their dowery of rich velvets to3 who kept their dowry of rich velvets pg #ic ,changed3 without imparing its moth-proof qualities to3 without impairing its moth-proof qualities