,illustration3 ,,girl ,,weeding ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,our ,,house4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa ,,reminiscences ,,of ,,the ,,south ,,seas ,,by ,,john ,,lafarge ,author of 8,the ,higher ,life in ,art10 8,great ,masters10 8,one ,hundred ,masterpieces of ,painting10 ,etc4 ,,with #dh ,,illustrations ,,from ,,paintings ,,and ,,drawings ,,made ,,by ,,the ,,author ,,in #ahij-ia ,illustration3 colophon ,,garden ,,city ,,new ,,york ,,doubleday1 ,,page ,,company #aiaf ,,copyright1 #aija1 ,,by ,,charles ,,scribner',s ,,sons ,,copyright1 #aijd1 ,,by ,,the ,,century ,,co4 ,copyright1 #aiab1 by ,,doubleday1 ,,page ,,company ,all rights reserved1 including that of translation into foreign languages including the ,scandinavian ,,acknowledgment and thanks are due the following owners1 who were kind enough to lend their original drawings or paintings1 for reproduction in this volume3 ,,miss ,,harriet ,e4 ,,anderson ,,dr4 ,,wm4 ,,sturgis ,,bigelow ,,miss ,,gertrude ,,barnes ,,miss ,,grace ,,edith ,,barnes ,,franklin ,w4 ,m4 ,,cutcheon1 ,,esq4 ,a4 ,a4 ,,healy1 ,,esq4 ,,james ,j4 ,,hill1 ,,esq4 ,,james ,,norman ,,hill1 ,,esq4 ,,mrs4 ,,geo4 ,,lewis ,,heins ,,mrs4 ,,charles ,j4 ,,hardy ,,col4 ,,henry ,l4 ,,higginson ,,mrs4 ,,edwin ,,chase ,,hoyt ,,august ,f4 ,,jaccaci1 ,,esq4 ,,william ,,macbeth1 ,,esq4 ,,mrs4 ,,montgomery ,,sears ,,edw4 ,p4 ,,slevin1 ,,esq4 ,,geo4 ,w4 ,,stevens1 ,,esq4 ,,toledo ,,museum ,,miss ,,mary ,l4 ,,ware ,,mrs4 ,,payne ,,whitney ,,dr4 ,w4 ,,wallace ,,walker ,,estate ,,of ,,john ,,lafarge ,,prefatory ,,note ,this record of travel in the ,south ,seas was designed by ,mr4 ,la ,farge as a continuous narrative1 but some of his most valuable impressions were embodied in letters written from the ,islands to his son1 ,mr4 ,bancel ,la ,farge1 or jotted down at the moment in his journal4 ,since it was his intention to introduce this material into the book1 it has with scrupulous care been drawn upon for that purpose4 ,g4 ,e4 ,b4 ,,contents ,,page ,,en ,,route ,,on ,,board1 #bf,,th ,,august1 #ahij #c ,,honolulu #ab ,,hawaii #cc ,,kilauea--,,the ,,volcano #df ,,ride ,,from ,,hilo ,,around ,,the ,,east ,,of ,,island ,,of ,,hawaii #ec ,,samoa #fh ,,off ,,the ,,island ,,of ,,tutuila1 ,,on ,,board ,,the ,,cutter ,,carrying ,,mail1 ,,october #g #fh ,,an ,,account ,,of ,,residence ,,at ,,vaiala #adb ,a ,,malaga ,,in ,,seumanu',s ,,boat1 ,,october #be #aee ,,palolo #bab ,,another ,,samoan ,,malaga #bbi ,,at ,,sea ,,from ,,samoa ,,to ,,tahiti #bhh ,,tahiti #cja ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,limits ,,of ,,the ,,tevas #cbc ,,lament ,,of ,,aromaiterai #cca ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,tevas #cec ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,taurua1 ,,or ,,the ,,loan ,,of ,a ,,wife #cfd ,,tahiti ,,to ,,fiji #chg ,,fiji #cie ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,fish-,,hook ,,war #daa ,,an ,,expedition ,,into ,,the ,,mountains ,,of ,,viti ,,levu #dbb ,,epilogue #dgh ,,illustrations ,,in ,,colour ,,girl ,,weeding ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,our ,,house1 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa ,frontispiece ,,facing ,,page ,,trees ,,in ,,moonlight4 ,,honolulu1 ,,hawaii #ab ,,beginning ,,of ,,desert1 ,,island ,,of ,,hawaii #cd ,,central ,,cone ,,of ,,volcano ,,of ,,kilauea1 ,,hawaii #dh ,,crater ,,of ,,kilauea ,,and ,,the ,,lava ,,bed4 ,,hawaii #eb ,,men ,,bathing ,,in ,,the ,,river ,,near ,,the ,,sea4 ,,onomea1 ,,island ,,of ,,hawaii #eh ,,fayaway ,,sails ,,her ,,boat4 ,,samoa #fh ,,the ,,flute ,,player4 ,,samoa #hf ,,boy ,,in ,,canoe ,,passing ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,our ,,house4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa #ih ,,mataafa',s ,,cook ,,house4 ,,from ,,our ,,hut ,,at ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa #aaj ,,samoan ,,courtship #abj ,,soldiers ,,bringing ,,presents ,,of ,,food ,,in ,,military ,,order4 ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa #ahb ,,taupo ,,and ,,attendants ,,dancing ,,in ,,open ,,air4 ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa #ahd ,,presentation ,,of ,,gifts ,,of ,,food ,,at ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa #ahf ,,south ,,sea ,,seated ,,dance ,,at ,,night4 ,,samoa #ahh ,,buttresses ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,christian ,,church ,,and ,,tomb ,,of ,,siga ,,in ,,the ,,reef4 ,,sapapali1 ,,samoa #aih ,,the ,,boy ,,sopo4 ,,samoa #bjh ,,the ,,papa-,,seea1 ,,or ,,sliding ,,rock4 ,,fagalo ,,sliding ,,waterfall4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa #baj ,,girl ,,sliding ,,down ,,waterfall4 ,,samoa #bab ,,samoan ,,girl ,,carrying ,,palm ,,branch #bdf ,,from ,,our ,,hut ,,at ,,vao-,,vai1 ,,samoa #beh ,,maua4 ,,study ,,of ,,one ,,of ,,our ,,boat ,,crew4 ,,apia1 ,,samoa #bhf ,,study ,,of ,,surf ,,breaking ,,on ,,outside ,,reef4 ,,tautira1 ,,taiarapu1 ,,tahiti #cjb ,,the ,,diadem ,,mountain4 ,,tahiti #cjh ,,peak ,,of ,,maua ,,roa1 ,,island ,,of ,,moorea1 ,,society ,,islands1 ,,tahiti #cch ,,edge ,,of ,,the ,,aorai ,,mountain ,,covered ,,with ,,cloud1 ,,midday4 ,,papeete1 ,,tahiti #ced ,,chiefs ,,in ,,war ,,dress ,,and ,,paint4 8,,devil0 ,,country4 ,,viti ,,levu1 ,,fiji #cif ,,tonga ,,girl ,,with ,,fan #dah ,,edge ,,of ,,village ,,of ,,nasogo ,,in ,,mountain ,,of ,,the ,,northeast ,,of ,,viti ,,levu1 ,,fiji #dcd ,,study ,,of ,,huts ,,at ,,end ,,of ,,village4 ,,matakula1 ,,fiji #deb ,,beginning ,,of ,,village--,,dawn4 ,,matakula4 ,,fiji #def ,,mountain ,,hut ,,or ,,house ,,at ,,waikumbukumbu1 ,,fiji #dfj ,,illustrations ,,in ,,black ,,and ,,white ,,page ,,sifa ,,dancing ,,the ,,sitting ,,siva #hd ,,uatea ,,dancing ,,the ,,sitting ,,siva #ij ,,swimming ,,dance4 ,,samoa #aff ,,aitutagata4 ,,the ,,hereditary ,,assassins ,,of ,,king ,,malietoa4 ,,sapapali1 ,,savaii1 ,,samoa #aif ,,practising ,,the ,,seated ,,dance ,,at ,,night4 ,,samoa #bjj ,,two ,,taupos ,,dancing ,a 8,,game ,,of ,,ball40 ,,samoa #bef ,,tulafales ,,speech-,,making4 ,,vao-,,vai1 ,,samoa #bfb ,,taupo ,,dancing ,,the ,,standing ,,siva4 ,,samoa #bfd ,,fagalo ,,and ,,sue ,,wrestling4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa #bgd ,,young ,,tahitian ,,girl #ccf ,,sun ,,coming ,,over ,,mountain4 ,,early ,,morning1 ,,uponohu #cdh ,,mekke-,,mekke4 ,a ,,story ,,dance4 ,,the ,,musicians ,,at ,,reva1 ,,fiji #djd ,,the ,,dance ,,of ,,war4 ,,fiji #djf ,,joli ,,buti--,,teacher4 ,,fiji #djh ,,fijian ,,boy #dej ,,ratu ,,mandrae--,,fijian ,,chief #ded ,,reminiscences ,,of ,,the ,,south ,,seas ,,reminiscences ,,of ,,the ,,south ,,seas ,,en ,,route ,,on ,,board1 #bfth ,august1 #ahij4 ,san ,francisco was the same place1 with the same curious feeling of its being cold while one felt the heat2 but there was neither place1 time nor anything for me2 there were things to buy and replace--all sorts of things had been forgotten1 and now more than ever ,i realize that it is well to be overloaded--even if ,i believe that later ,i should feel it4 ,what ,i want ,i want badly1 and ,san ,francisco is not a place to get it in4 ,and then there was a pleasant club1 with the usual hideous decoration1 but very comfortable and with such a good table1 and such a real one--meats that were meats1 and fish that was fish1 and fruits in quantity1 and fruits are not fruits for pleasure unless they be in quantity2 and good wine and champagne of a kind that is not ours2 and a ,mr4 ,cutler who took us there and talked of things he had done or would do1 that were interesting1 and the contrast between the smoothness of life there1 and the apparent difficulties outside4 ,i say apparent because many of them are based upon a feeling of indifference or 8look out for yourself0 in any event outside4 ,yes1 the ,union ,club was a good waster of time4 ,and then ,i am not yet well recovered at all from the strain of the beginning of the month2 and ,i felt as if ,i had sea-legs and gait from the motion of the car4 ,so that ,i shall say nothing of the great bay1 nor its mountainsides1 that look at this time as if they were nothing but those we have seen all along1 but with the sea rolling in4 ,we got off on ,saturday1 not at noon as stated1 but waiting for a couple of hours in dock1 the little steamer filled with people and with very pretty girls1 who1 alas6 were not to accompany us4 ,but we have a circus troupe 8 la ,buffalo ,bill02 an impresario with the nose and figure head of the 8boy10 and his wife1 or lady1 the usual 8variety blonde0 to match1 joining1 like the telegraph1 7through the seas and continent of ,america71 furthest ,australia and the ,singing ,hall of ,london4 ,long-haired cowboys see them off1 one of them fair-haired and boyish and 8sixty-two40 ,there are ,indians1 one long-haired1 saturnine1 and yet smiling1 with the usual length of jaw and hair 7so that his back runs up from his waist to his hat71 who sits with some female1 perhaps a dancer1 and talks sentiment evidently1 in his way1 to my great delight--and hers1 too1 whatever she might say4 ,they sit with one blanket around them1 and he points gracefully1 and puts things in her hair--and draws presents out of his pockets1 wrapped up in paper1 and puts them back to pull them out again4 ,she sits against him1 and smiles at him ironically1 and laughs1 and generally looks like a pretty cat lapping cream4 ,the cowboys meander about and go to the bar-room too frequently1 especially one1 a fair-haired one1 who feels the first attack of sea-sickness1 and sits with his head on his hand--and resents his comrades' begging him to come below1 telling them that they have mistaken the man he is1 that he is a ,pawnee medicine man1 he is1 and that he will wipe the floor with them2 and then he subsides again--so that my expected row does not occur4 ,then everybody subsides1 even the cheerful young ,englishmen and old ,englishmen1 and the middle-aged ,englishmen1 who pervade a good part of the ship and utter all their small stock of remarks with slowness and power4 ,there are others--the teacher going back for her vacation1 to the seminary at ,hawaii--the young ,german ,i suspect of being an ,r4,c4 priest1 and the ,scotchman who has carefully talked for the last hour on the advantage of our system of 8checking0 baggage1 which as he says allows you to go on without getting off at any station to see if the 8guard0 has the things all right4 ,but as he remarks1 for the hand luggage1 a 8mon0 can take care of that himself1 otherwise he would not be fit to take care of ,,money66 ,but the weather is disappointing1 very cold 7so that ulsters are convenient71 dark and grey1 and there is a heavy coast sea1 which ,i didn't like until yesterday1 since when it has been warm1 and we have had blue sky in large patches through rents in the violet silveriness of the clouds4 ,it is the exquisite clearness of the blue of the ,pacific1 a butterfly blue1 laid on as it were between the clouds1 and shading down to white faintness in the far distance1 where the haze of ocean covers up the turquoise4 ,the sea has the blue for a long time1 but dark and reflecting the grey sky4 ,this morning 7,thursday7 it has been blue like a sapphire1 dark to look at except near by1 but when you look down to it1 and see it framed in the openings of the windows or the gangways1 blue light pours out of it1 and ,i realize that my blue sketches of four years ago are no exaggeration4 ,when the clouds open somewhat1 the blue light pours down and makes the shadows of the clouds violet1 except when this fog against the warm sky looks red and rosy4 ,even the shadows of the blue sea look at moments reddish1 when they reflect the opposite grey cloud4 ,but we are not yet quite in the sun seas--this is not the season yet nor the place4 ,there is all the time a veil of cloud1 a veil so heavy as to make great cumulus clouds bunch out in extreme modelling4 ,but when it is grey1 all in silver--there is a light--a lilac grey1 a silver1 not known to the other side2 and it is only when the distant smoke of the steamer goes over the grey clouds that ,i realize that they become like those of the north ,atlantic4 ,this is ,thursday afternoon4 ,on ,saturday at dawn1 or before it1 we shall sight at first the island of ,molokai1 the leper's island1 where ,father ,damien lived1 then ,oahu and its capes and ,honolulu4 ,friday1 #bith ,august4 ,last night the sun set in those silver tones that ,i associate with the ,pacific and with ,japan4 ,the horizon was enclosed everywhere1 but through it every here and there the pink and rose of sunset came out and in the east lit up the highest of the clouds in every variety of pink and lilac and purple and rose1 shut in with grey4 ,but the moon1 8,o ,tsuki ,san10 had her turn--then ,i realized where we were4 ,all was so dark that the horizon was quite veiled1 but the light of the moon1 in its full1 and high up1 poured down on what seemed a wall-embroidery of molten silver slanting to the horizon4 ,itself was partly wrapped in clouds or veils or wraps like those that protect some big jewel1 and when unveiled or partly covered1 it had the roundness--the nearness of some great crystal 8with white fire laden40 ,the clearness was so great at places open through the clouds1 that ,i thought ,i could see ,jupiter's satellites1 and decided it was he by this additional glitter4 ,there is no way of telling you all that the moon did1 for she seemed to arrange the clouds1 to place them about her or drive them away1 to veil herself with one hand of cloud4 ,it was like a great heavenly play--and played in such lovely air6 ,if ,i could write on for pages ,i could only say that ,i had no idea of what the moon could be1 nor of the persistence of colour that she could hold in all the silveriness4 ,when ,i went to bed1 blue light poured in by reflection from the waves that had looked dark and colourless from the deck4 ,it was the same contrast as by daylight1 when the dark sea1 isolated from the sky1 takes a blue like ,oriental satin1 and is fired with light4 ,to-night again the moon gave a play--no longer in the great pomp of a simple spread of silver forms of cloud1 but like an opera of colour and shadow1 far in front of it1 hung at times1 a cloud so dense as to seem as dark as our bulwarks or 8roofing0--but usually a cloud of blue1 perhaps by contrast with the warmth of the clouds behind1 all lit up and modelled and graded tier on tier4 ,no ,rembrandt could have more indication of grading and of dark than these clouds had in reality4 ,no possible palette could approximate the degrees of dark and of light1 for the moon1 when she uncovered entirely1 was the same transparent silver vase out of which poured light4 ,it seemed impossible--the electric light alongside of us was no brighter apparently than the bright markings of the light on the deck1 on the edges of the bulwarks1 and on the brass of the railings4 ,imagine the electric light1 in say our ,fifth ,avenue1 really turned on everything around you4 ,it is a stupid simile1 but ,i wish you to believe in what ,i am saying4 ,i took a coloured print into the moonlight to try1 and could make out the colours--fairly of course--moonily1 but there they were all1 all but the violet4 ,we could read1 poorly1 but we could read4 ,but this is not the point1 it is that we could see far away to the moon1 and that it made a centre of light for every dark1 for every half-tint1 curtain upon curtain hung in front of it--all the foregrounds of sky you could wish for in that possibility of fog cloud4 ,never shall ,i think again of the moon as a pale imitation4 ,of course its representation began when the sun was gone4 ,why it was like a sun one could look at without wincing1 and canopied itself with colours that did not imitate1 but were merely the iridescent spectrum that belongs to the great sun4 ,these colours1 by their arrangement in the prismatic sequence seemed to make more light1 to arrange it and dispose it1 as if art was recalling nature4 ,all this must seem unintelligible4 ,it would to me if ,i dared reread it4 ,but this is at least what we came for--the moon and the ,pacific4 ,to-morrow morning1 ,honolulu4 ,there was the profile of ,oahu at seven this morning4 ,earlier1 ,molokai was a long cloud on our port4 ,now ,oahu becomes clearer1 and is distinctly violet or plum colour4 ,the sea in front of it is blue1 and dashed with white foam4 ,above1 the clouds are in the more delicate greys and violets1 and far up is a little rift of blue4 ,to the right a large white triangular patch--an extinct volcano cone4 ,near the base of the mountains all is mist4 ,it is now #g3cj4 ,birds1 swallows1 and sea-mews meet us2 the swallows came early this morning4 ,but until yesterday1 for two days1 there was no life except the flying fish4 ,we are very close1 so close that ,i cannot draw except in panorama4 ,all looks like cinders as we go on4 ,lovely cloud effects on the hills--rainbows--and the furthest edge of everything in this promontory daring all4 ,then1 as we round this1 with our first turn perhaps since we left1 we can see more mountains and hills--for the first time1 right on the blue sea1 a fringe of green 7not yellowish7--the first time ,i have seen a fringe of green to deep blue sea4 ,later we see beneath the great hills or mountains1 that look like cinders1 green bushes of trees1 and houses looking pretty enough and cool--but we are still far off--and then behind this grey mountain with fringe of green we begin to feel ,honolulu4 ,big mountains1 green valleys and slopes far back1 a fringe of trees1 some large buildings1 a steamer's smoke from some place1 here and there masts--all this spread for miles1 like an edging4 ,as the space unfolds we see an immensely long beach 7,waikiki7 running at the base of the hills around a bay1 and far off in the haze many masts4 8,white water0 edges the sea everywhere1 even before the line of ships4 ,the water has calmed on which we now slip4 ,there is no motion to it2 no more1 apparently1 than would make a fringe of foam to a lake4 ,a narrow channel in the surf1 and we see the shipping and the port3 steamships and sailing vessels1 an ,english and an ,american warship1 and we are in1 and ,i am interrupted for the keys of the trunks4 ,,honolulu ,sunday morning1 ,nuuanu1 ,nuuanu ,valley1 ,honolulu4 ,last night1 after having tried the ,hawaiian ,hotel1 we came up here and took possession of ,judge ,hartwell's house1 which we had seen in the afternoon4 ,we sat in the verandah1 looking out toward the sea1 ,i should say about two miles from us1 with the same brilliant moonlight we had had the night before4 ,the two palm trees in front of the house were gradually illuminated as if the whole air had been a stage scene1 through the smoothly shining trunks glistening like silver1 where the lower green stem of the bole leaf or branch of the tree beneath the branches separates from the lower cylinder4 ,behind them spread sky and ocean1 for we are just on the summit of a hill1 the sea-line spreading distinctly and the air being clear enough1 7even when a slight drift of rain came down across the picture71 to see the surf far out1 and the lines of a great bar 7to the right71 which made a long hooked bend into the sea4 ,lights shone red on board of two ,english and ,american war vessels4 ,far off a few azure clouds on the horizon2 and occasionally a white patch of cloud floated ,illustration3 ,,trees ,,in ,,moonlight4 ,,honolulu1 ,,hawaii like gauze over the palms1 then sank away into the space shining far off--a little darker now than the sky1 and warm and rather red in colour4 ,meanwhile1 the palm branches tossed up and down in the intermittent gale which blew from behind us in the great hills4 ,the landscape was all below us1 lying at the very foot of the palms which edge the hill upon which we are4 ,across the grass the moonlight came sometimes1 as if a lamp had suddenly been brought in--and the colour of the half-yellow grass1 which was not lost in the moonlight1 urged on this delusion4 ,even the violet of the two pillars of palm and its silveriness were strong enough to make greener the colour of the sky4 ,when ,i walked out behind the house the hills were covered with cloud--,i say covered1 but rather the cloud rested upon them1 and poured up into the sky1 in large masses of white2 the moon shining through most of the time1 out of an opening more blue than the blue sky1 itself an opaline circle of greenish blue light1 with variant iridescent redness in the cloud edges4 ,against it the heavy trees looked as dark as green can be1 and now and again the branches of other palms were like waves of grass against this dark1 or against the sky all shining and brilliant4 ,occasionally it rained1 as it did in the afternoon2 the edges of the great cloud blew upon us like a little sprinkle of wet dust1 and later1 as it came thicker1 the rustle of the palms was increased by the rustle of the rain4 ,the grass of the hills shone as with moisture1 but the grass outside1 near us1 was so dry that the hand put down to it felt no wet4 ,and ,i went off to bed under mosquito nettings1 in a room that smelt of sandalwood1 to sleep late and feel the gusts of wind blow through the open windows1 and to think that it rained because ,i heard the palms4 ,yesterday it rained very often4 ,as we landed1 the rain had begun1 and the air was difficult to breathe with the quantity of moisture4 ,all was wet1 underfoot1 though the wet1 by the afternoon1 had dried in this volcanic soil4 ,we had been taken up to the home of ,mr4 ,smith1 ,judge ,hartwell's brother-in-law1 and decided at once upon going to housekeeping1 for which we had to drive into town quite late2 and we made out of our business a form of skylarking1 ,i think to the astonishment of our guide and friend1 who may have thought that persons who had been able to discuss seriously in the afternoon with himself and a member of the former cabinet1 ,mr4 ,thurston1 the question of the sugar tariff1 and its relation to the ,force bill and the position of ,mr4 ,blaine and of the ,pennsylvania senators1 should not be people to waste their minds on the dress of ,hawaiian girls and the fashion of wearing flowers about the neck4 ,but the ride was full of enjoyment and novelty4 ,honolulu streets are amusing4 ,the blocks of houses are tropical1 with most reasonable lowness1 and are of cement in facings2 and the great number of ,chinese shops and of ,chinese1 with some pretty ,chinese girl faces and children's faces1 enliven the streets4 ,and there are so many horses1 small1 with much mustang blood and good action and good heads1 and ridden freely--too freely1 for we saw a labourer ridden down by some cowboyish fellow4 ,hawaiian women rode about in their divided skirts2 they had1 as well as many of the men1 flowers around their waists and their necks1 and among their delights1 peacock-feather bands around their hats4 ,many of them were pretty1 ,i thought1 with animated faces1 talking to mild and fierce men of similar adornments4 ,and as ,i said1 there was much ,chinese1 and dresses of much colour--for men and women--and trees with flowers1 like the ,bougainvillia purplish rose coloured2 grey palm trunks1 and many plants of big leaves like the banana2 yellow limes1 and fiercely green acacias4 ,at any rate it was fun2 we stopped and bought mangoes and oranges from natives who smiled or grinned at us4 ,the air grew delicious with the wind that took away the oppression of the dampness1 7we have about #hj to #hc degrees71 so that if this be tropical1 it is easy to bear1 and the vast feeling of air and space gives a charm even to the heat4 ,i walked about this morning toward the hills1 of which the near ones are covered with grass of a velvet grey in the light1 and dun colour in the shade2 but behind1 the higher hills are purple and lost in the base of the cloud that has never ceased to turret them4 ,after a while the sense of blue air became intense4 ,tuesday4 ,we sat up again and waited for the moon to rise1 and watched her light drown the brilliancy of the stars and of the milky way4 ,jupiter shone like diamonds1 and ,venus was like a glittering moon herself2 and beneath her in the ocean a wide tremulousness of light broke the great belt of water with a shine that anywhere else might have done for the reflection of the moon4 ,the great palms threw up their arms into a coloured sky not quite violet nor quite green2 the gale blew again from the mountains with the same intensity2 the great cloud hung again up to the same point in the heaven until the moon began to beat its edges down1 and break them and send them in blots of white and dark into the western sky4 ,then1 at length1 she came out again to sink behind the advancing cloud1 which again broke1 over and over again1 and through the trees behind us and over the hills hung in a mass of violet grey4 ,the wind blew more and more violently1 but never any colder2 always as if at the beginning of a storm1 not as if any more than a long gust4 ,and when the moon was free in the upper sky1 and the cloud rested in its accustomed place1 above the hills1 we walked out into the open spaces to see the clouds lie in white masses of snow piled up1 and above them to the north1 the sky of an indefinite purple1 terrible in its depth of uncertainty of colour1 with no break1 no cloud whatever4 ,wednesday night we had rain1 though only above us4 ,occasionally the clouds gained over in the southwest before us1 but not entirely1 and for a time the horizon of the sea was dusty and a little uncertain1 but never at any moment did we fail to see the stars before us and the clear light of the sky4 ,but we had to say good-bye to the moon4 ,she will rise now so late that for us who are getting tired with a little more movement1 there is impatience at having to watch2 and1 besides1 the mosquitoes pour about us in swarms1 unless we remain outdoors in the continual gusty surge of wind that makes us more and more sleepy4 ,now the sky in the night becomes more purple and more violet as we look toward the south1 instead of holding delicate blue-green1 that promised the moon2 and around ,venus1 until her setting1 there is an area of light in this violet2 and below her the sea is bright as if with a moon1 and all the stars toward the south are brilliant and fiery4 ,friday4 ,yesterday we drove up the valley4 ,we ourselves are on a bank or projection into it1 though the rocks rise to our left as we look northeast1 which is the trend of the valley4 ,honolulu is below us1 spread by the sea1 and the valley goes up from it as do others2 to the north and east there is a wide fringe or space by the sea1 which is as a big slope1 and into it these valleys open1 so that1 as we look back on our drive1 that narrows more1 we see the scene opening more and more and further and further below us1 ,honolulu and its plain or lower slope shining in light1 with the sea beyond it1 the surf breaking away out from its shore1 and the sea spreading over the sand in a faint wash of greener colour2 further out a purple line of reef below the water1 and then the waveless blue of distance4 ,all is light2 even the converging hills--hills coming together in the perspective1 like stage wings1 but opening out in reality--even the hills seem transparent with light4 ,the valley side rises generally1 but our view is occasionally interrupted by divisions of higher land1 slopes from the mountainsides that run across4 ,and so we go for five miles4 ,the hills and mountains1 for they are high1 are steep and pointed and covered with green4 ,here and there black marks indicate the volcanic rock2 a cascade comes down the apparently perpendicular side of the rock1 like a snake twisting2 making a movement like a throbbing1 for there is no leap1 it merely glides down the wall4 ,then suddenly the road rises still more1 and we come to a bank before us where the road turns2 and over the bank we see distance1 and green hills like a plain under us1 and red roads through the multitudinous green1 and far away a promontory out to sea1 silver and grey1 for the vegetation has suddenly stopped there1 and there is nothing but the nameless aridity of mountains standing out to sea1 in a fairyland of blue and white surf1 and sand between white and yellow1 and a warm emerald of shallow waves near the shore4 ,we are on the famous ,pali1 thirteen hundred feet above the hills below us4 ,pack mules grope down the path1 and a carriage held back by two riders on horseback goes down the precipitous winding road4 ,there is shouting and clicking of stirrups and spurs and bridles1 the plunges of the horses and sudden throwing back of the men1 all in a gale of heavy wind1 make me feel in this smallness even in animals the size and space before me4 ,as we go down the road a little1 we see1 looking up1 the great cliffs of the ,pali to which we have driven4 ,it makes a great cliff of walls opposite to the sea1 7over which we have broken71 and to the west it stretches in shadow1 and in the west we see the marking lost in shade of unnamable tones1 as the green precipice casts its shade across the foothills and slopes for a vast space1 7it is two thousand feet high71 looking as if it had been some great sea-cliff once1 and the sea had once formed the spaces now green1 and undulating with hill and valley4 ,but the great ,pali has probably been one side of the stupendous wall of a great crater1 now partly under the sea1 and the grey mountain far off to sea has been the central cone of this ancient circle4 ,september #fth4 ,we had to-day a very ,hawaiian afternoon2 we tasted of the delights--perhaps it would be better to say the comforts--of poi2 eaten with relishes1 squid and salt fish1 and fish baked in ti leaves1 and also of some introduced things1 such as the guava1 which is spooned out from its rind4 ,but all this is known to you4 ,and this was two-fingered poi4 ,when fully stiff it is one-fingered1 the three-fingered being effeminate1 and coming to-day more in use with general degeneracy4 ,and we see later old poi-dishes with an edge running in1 upon which to wipe the finger or fingers4 ,and as the talk went on1 turning always more or less to ancient habits and traditions1 we heard much more than ,i can remember4 ,as a shuttle through the web of the conversation ran the personality of the ,king2 interesting1 in many ways1 because of his race1 and of its exact relation to the pure race1 and of his caring for the old traditions and probably superstitions4 ,he collects1 or has collected2 but is little addicted to the civilized habits of curators of museums1 and is fond of arranging his remains and fragments1 placing them and setting them occasionally in gold1 and remaking old idols which are fragmentary1 not without surmises of his taking more than an outside scientific or artistic interest in them4 ,and no wonder6 there must remain every reason of inheritance in mind4 ,the christianizing of the native mind can be represented by the supposition of an acceptance of a ,jehovah who ruled in great matters1 and over the soul1 but whose attention was not directed to little things2 so that there might be essences that controlled ordinary life1 good to invoke in time of danger1 and for usual help1 at any rate of good omen1 or to be propitiated for fear of harm4 ,and so often the native in great distress1 as when death threatens1 resorts to old forms1 as invalids all over the world look to remedies out of the regular way--the good woman's doctorings and the help of the quack1 who may not perhaps be all out in some matters4 ,and so it is possible to hear that this personage has rebuilt a heiau or temple--a fishing temple of propitiation near his summer residence1 upon the old lines of the former one2--and to listen to the singular anecdote1 which gives him as consulting an old crone when age is on her in the full of a hundred1 and who remembered the erection of the old temple now destroyed4 ,when consulted by us she was still able to work1 though so very old1 and was found seated under some hut or shelter1 scraping twigs for mats1 with a sharp-edged shell1 as she had done when a child of ten4 ,much could not be obtained from her1 as she had no consecutive thread of talk1 but she was able to show where the cornerstone of the old temple lay1 and beneath it the bones of the human being sacrificed as a propitiatory and necessary part of the foundation--a habit and tradition common to all races1 as we know4 ,the ,king could not1 of course1 sacrifice a human being to-day1 so that a pig was the propitiation1 and the new heiau is built4 ,the first offering from fishing is thrown there and success established4 ,another pig comes in a more curious and fantastic way1 and forms part of a possible picture1 conjured up in the story4 ,for some old priest or kahuna assured the ,king1 anxious to discover the remains of the great ,kamehameha1 that they could be traced by divination4 ,the pig1 filled with the spirit 7ahu71 was let loose1 and an old priest and less old but heavy chieftain careered after him1 until the animal passed1 and began to circle about in convulsions4 ,then they dug and lo6 a skull1 which the ,king now keeps as the remains of the great head of the sovereignty1 from whom his predecessors were descended1 as was1 for example1 the wife of our ,mr4 ,bishop the banker--for the present ,king is not of that lofty strain4 ,this difficulty of finding what was left of the great tyrant and hero was owing to the ,hawaiian 7and ,polynesian71 habit of hiding the remains of the great2 sometimes even they were eaten2 the people were not cannibals--they did not kill to eat1 but it was necessary to protect the remains from insult4 ,no one would wish to have his chief's bones serve for fishhooks1 nor to make arrowheads to shoot mice with1 nor ,i suppose even to make ornamental circles in the sticks of the kahili1 the beautiful plumed stick of honour1 originally a fly-brush1 ,i suppose 7like the old ,egyptian fan71 which was the attribute of power1 and which is still carried about royalty1 or stands at their coffin or place of burial4 ,consequently every precaution was taken to hide the bones1 which were tied together and put in some inaccessible secret place4 ,another kahuna or priest told the ,king how to have access to the terrible hiding-place where were deposited the remains of some chief that ,kalakaua wished to have1 to give them finally some resting-place of honour4 ,the only way to get at this cavern was by diving and when he did so he came up into a cavern1 where he found them1 and also large statues of idols and other remains4 ,but the place was haunted1 and not for the whole of the ,islands would the ,king again undertake such a journey4 ,nor should ,i1 even if ,i swam well enough4 ,can you imagine making a hit-or-miss entrance through the surf into some narrow hole1 from which one would emerge into hollow and drier darkness2 and then to have to make light and grope about for things in themselves of a spooky and doubtful influence--and things that should resent the hand of the intruder6 ,for it is even hinted that many of the present tombs in the royal mausoleum are empty or not authentically filled2 for instance1 ,king ,lunalilo is certainly not there4 ,in old days some devoted friend of the chief's would have hunted about and found some man looking like him1 and then would have incontinently massacred the more vulgar ,dromio1 would have left his body in the place of the chief's1 and hidden the honoured remains from all but most sacred knowledge1 that around the priest1 the depository of holy mysteries1 all power might cling4 ,power of priests3 power to designate who should die--killing the chief's friend or supporters if it were advisable to weaken him4 ,with their privilege of designating victims the power of the priests must have reached into the province of politics1 for a king's or chief's men1 precious to him but dangerous to enemies1 might be chosen at any moment so as to weaken him4 ,the men of the priest could be saved from such a terror4 ,the man to die might be put an end to as he entered the temple by a blow from behind with a club or stone1 or his back might be broken1 in a dexterous way known of old1 or his neck might be twisted so as to break the spine4 ,the death at least was made as painless as possible4 ,the real kahunas are extinct1 but have many pretended successors4 ,the ,king himself claims to be kahuna more or less4 ,he claims to have a cure for leprosy4 ,i hear too that a leper is kept at the palace1 and another at the boat house1 for experiments1 but of course of that ,i know nothing--no more than of anything else4 ,the boat house is the place where the ,king gives luuaus1 ,hawaiian dinner parties1 and when the hula is danced there are well-known dancers who come or are retained or sent for4 ,they are in the photographs much dressed and rather ugly1 and some have very thick legs1 monstrous to the ,european eye1 but ,i suppose that talent is not always found in the pretty shapes4 ,some good people 7from ,minnesota71 lately expressed a wish to see these dances1 and the ,king1 who is apparently a very courteous person1 kindly consented to help them1 and invited them then and there to dinner4 ,they came to an excellent dinner1 and saw the hula danced4 ,they were informed by the ,king that the custom was to give some gratuity to the artist2 so that money was thrown into a dish1 the ,king giving two dollars1 and the others the same4 ,when the collection at the end was taken up after each dance 7my informants giving some seven dollars apiece7 and presented as by etiquette to his majesty1 he retained the mass1 giving one dollar and a half to each dancer as their proper proportion4 ,this reminds me of ,oriental tradition1 and is probably quite consistent with a certain liberality1 the ,hawaiian instinct1 especially with the chiefs1 being toward generous giving2 so much so that many have become impoverished from this and other forms of improvidence1 in the days of the change to civilization1 when they owned a good deal that gradually passed into the hands of those who held the mortgages4 ,mrs4 ,dominis1 the heir apparent 7now the ,queen71 keeps also some tenderness for superstitions and beliefs of the past1 and ,i am told 7but not by so sure a person71 that she sacrificed some time ago to ,pele1 the goddess of the volcano1 some pigs and hens1 which were thrown into the fire of lava4 ,at present the account is vague and mixed to me1 but ,i think of it as connected with some illness of one of the late princesses1 for whom also came a portent of certain fish appearing in quantity1 a presage of death to great chiefs4 ,naturally one listens to any gossip referring to the reversion of the race to any former habits1 and this ,i give you only for this reason4 ,one little touch1 however1 with the common people1 is pretty1 just what happens anywhere1 and that is the fondness for lying low1 if ,i may so put it2 the using of the underneath of their houses 7which is one way71 the cellar1 or rather open space under houses1 becoming1 low as it is1 the residence1 and the house itself being kept with its furniture and carpets1 only as a sort of show2 matting being laid down on the earth below1 and the whole affair made comfortable in savage fashion4 ,here all live together4 ,somebody was telling us how1 in a trip somewhere1 they had found a family who were living under their house1 and who gave them their own unused room with a big four-post bedstead4 ,and in the morning a strange rustle aroused them4 ,it was the native couple struggling to escape unnoticed from beneath the bed1 under which they had passed the night4 ,and also there is a peculiar use of objects which we hide1 and which are placed usually at the doorstep4 ,i have seen them carried with great care through the streets1 and at my first purchases in a ,chinese shop ,i noticed the discussion of some natives upon the adornment of these utensils which they had come to buy4 ,the old-fashioned house has passed away2 hardly any one has now the knowledge of how to build it4 ,it was well suited to its use and made with great care4 ,it had a thatched roof which was made of bundles tied with hibiscus bark and carefully disposed1 and this whole house had to be built according to rite1 or it could not be lived in4 ,the main archway1 or one made by say the pillars and lintel and crossbeam1 had to be of one wood1 and so forth4 ,the floor was made of stones1 laid together in different layers1 growing smaller and smaller1 upon which mats were placed1 one over the other2 which also could be made very fine1 and which are excellent to sleep on1 being very cool4 ,i was much struck by the shape of some skulls of natives showing a peculiar tent or roof shape of head1 and extreme squareness of jaw4 ,the heads are fine1 very often1 and the type massive4 ,man and woman tend to fat apparently1 if one may judge of the average types one sees1 but then they are seen in the street or in houses and perhaps well fed4 ,some of the young women or girls have great delicacy of expression1 and the line of the jaw and chin separating from the throat is graceful and refined4 ,there is a pretty tendency1 owing to thickness of lip1 apparently1 to a shortness of the curve above1 that gives a little disdainful look quite imposing in some of the older and uglier women1 when they are not too fat4 ,the men look like gentle bandits4 ,but there is a certain sullen look in a great many that is unsatisfactory1 and has grown1 ,i suppose4 ,they probably need firm hands to govern them2 and are certainly not satisfied now2 whether stirred on by agitators or by any real grievance1 ,i of course can't know4 ,in old times they sent away to faraway islands for chiefs and rulers4 ,from ,samoa and ,tahiti rulers came1 some whose names are known1 for over this vast space the war canoes went1 two thousand miles and more1 and the places of their departure and arrival bore names indicating their distant relationship4 ,but some places or islands are missing to-day1 which apparently once rose above the surface1 and now are shoals perhaps4 ,one of their rulers1 a sort of demigod1 who sailed away one day promising to return in coming years1 they took ,cook to be when he appeared1 and they called him ,lono4 ,and years before him some ,spaniards were left behind1 in the hit-or-miss sailing of early days1 and have left certain signs1 it is said1 in languages and other things4 ,for their great voyages the ,hawaiians had a knowledge of the winds and of many stars1 six hundred of which bore names4 ,wednesday night1 ,september #aath4 ,to-night it blows again from over the ,pali and mountains1 the first time since ,sunday4 ,we have had a south wind1 which has slowly come round with rain1 back to its old station4 ,we have painted at the ,pali1 during the south wind1 for it did not then blow against us1 and ,i was able to sketch without the extreme difficulty that ,i had feared4 ,we drove up ,monday afternoon in the great heat1 clouds hanging over the valley rather low1 so that ,i feared that we should be covered4 ,their shadows hung along the walls of the hills1 and made dark circles around the great spots of sunlight4 ,all varieties of green were around us1 in the foliage and the plants1 and the green of the slopes and mountains4 ,we came up1 as before1 to the edge of the ,pali1 suddenly1 all before us a blaze of green1 and looked over4 ,no more astounding spread of colour could be thought of4 ,the blue was intense enough when we saw it against the green bank before us1 imprisoned between that and the warm low cloud1 but it was still more astounding1 opening to the furthest horizon1 gradually through every shade to a faint green edge1 blotted in with white clouds1 bluish1 with bluish shadows1 and far away a long1 interminable line of cloud in a violet band 7because in shadow1 broken above and below with silvery projections74 ,the sea bluer yet than the sky1 spotted with green in the shoals1 and with white in the surf1 the headland of ,mokapu stretched out in brilliant grey unnamable2 the sand also of no possible colour2 the last range of hills tawny grey1 like a panther-skin1 warmed here and there with yellow and with green2 a brilliant oasis of green in centre1 like the green of a peacock4 ,then near us the intense feathery green of great hills and the billowy valley1 all of one tone1 one unbroken green1 as if covered with a drapery1 and the same green reflecting the blue above4 ,now and then red lines of road1 red as vermilion1 not only because of red earth1 but because the green vegetation is so deep by contrast2 and all this in partial shadow1 except the great distance and the silvery promontory4 ,and later1 far off1 half the ocean in absolute calm1 repeating the high clouds of the distance1 and their shadows and lights4 ,it was violent as a whole1 but delicate and refined almost to coldness4 ,here ,i had the misfortune to find that the usual trick of bad work and poor paper in my blocks would prevent my making any adequate record4 7,i say adequate--what ,i mean is plausible47 ,but we both sat and worked until sunset and after hours1 each not daring to look at anything but in one direction1 there was so much to prevent one's doing anything4 ,and at the last moment ,i went down part of the road toward the base1 to see the entire distance lost as in a dream1 great long streamers of mist apparently blowing away from the face of the ,pali4 ,and we returned in the afterglow1 which now that the moon has left us1 keeps the whole sky and landscape in tones like those of some old picture clear and apparently distinct1 but intensely coloured1 however colourless it may seem1 for we have no names for tones--so coloured that the lamp-light1 inside the room where ,i am1 seems no warmer than the twilight without1 as if they were painted together1 as in one picture the sky is merely a beautiful background4 ,then comes1 alas6 the great hum of the mosquito1 if we are in the wind1 and we have to resort to burning powders if we do not sit in the draught that blows them away4 ,day after to-morrow we shall go to ,hawaii in the steamer ,hall1 land on the south coast1 go to the volcano ,kilauea and down from there to ,hilo4 ,this afternoon we have heard talk of the situation politically1 of the wrongdoing of demagogues2 and also we have seen one of the extraordinary yellow and red capes that the chiefs wore1 made of small rare feathers1 and each little tuft sewed on to plaited fibres and also a lei or neck-wreath of the same bird feathers1 with the addition of some soft green ones1 in divisions all very rare and valuable2 and a beautiful wooden polished spittoon with handle of some exquisite wood light and dark1 which has served to preserve the exuvi of some chief from the great danger of capture for incantation or working harm through sorcery4 ,,hawaii ,off ,island of ,hawaii1 #acth ,september1 #h ,a4,m4 ,we are lying off a little place1 ,keauhou1 while people are landing in boats from the small steamer that carries us4 ,the shore is broken with black lava rock1 in beds that do not seem high1 so flat are they on top4 ,it is about eight o'clock1 and the impression is of full sunlight on the green of everything4 ,behind the fringe of shore rises the big slope of the mountain seen in profile1 so gigantic that one only sees a slice of it at a time2 there are1 of course1 ravines up the hills1 and trees and grass1 but from my focus of the square1 between the pillars of the roof of the upper deck1 and seated by the guards ,i see rather shade broken with sunlight4 ,the sea1 of course1 at the shore is glittering blue1 but everything else that can cast a shade throws its edges upon the next2 so that ,i see a black seaside broken up by lava rocks1 and near them cocoa and palm1 and some small wharves1 or jetties1 built out to protect the smaller beaches1 that run back between the rocks4 ,each break of projection or recess has its trees1 that make the fringe of shade with patches of sun1 which the eye takes in along the water4 ,there are a few houses strung along1 half in light1 half in shadow2 three of them are tall grass huts1 hay-coloured in the half-shade of the cocoanuts beside them4 ,above them are patches of sun on the green slope where the upper bank or slope behind first flattens into the strong light4 ,in the shadow1 faint whites and pinks and blacks on the dresses of people waiting for their friends1 or watching the steamer4 ,their horses and mules and donkeys stand in rows along the houses--or walls--occasionally they pass into the sunshine4 ,one girl in red runs 7why1 heaven only knows--time seems of no possible use71 and as she rises over a rock in the sand1 the sun catches her brown feet and legs and the folds of her floating gown4 ,these people1 ,i am told1 have many of them ridden some miles from our last landing1 at dawn1 to meet us again4 ,but there are special deliveries of people and freight at each place--so many and so much on board that one can hardly realize where they are stowed4 ,three full boatloads at the last place1 and one here1 of people jammed--dark ,spanish faces1 peacock feathers1 and red veils on hats2 coloured neckerchiefs1 and head and shoulders covered with flowers or leaves that hang to the waist4 ,there is loud objurgation and chattering1 and keeping the children together1 and holding up odds and ends of things not sent ashore by the other boats that carry goods and household furniture4 ,illustration3 ,,beginning ,,of ,,desert1 ,,island ,,of ,,hawaii ,last night we were pretty full4 ,children and women lay in files on our deck by the guards1 the children ill with the rolling1 for we pass several channels between islands1 each one a pretext for the wind to give us a dance4 ,and in the steerage people lay like herrings4 ,it was picturesque2 a few ,chinese1 the rest ,hawaiian1 with much colour and abundance of flowers and leaves that they like1 and all eating on the spot1 apparently without moving--guitars playing--we had two guitars aboard1 and part of the night and morning somebody strummed2 sometimes a man appearing from a cabin1 posing guitarero-way1 touching a few chords and going away again4 ,once1 some fellow playing1 squatted on the deck1 apparently for the baby1 and the other babies1 who inspected the guitar inquiringly and approvingly--sometimes some of the women4 ,in the late afternoon1 as the sun struck this mass of colour against a blue sea of unnamable blue1 at least two dozen of the people all in colours were eating watermelon all red down to the rind4 ,the appearance of a palette well littered was only a symbol to it4 ,and there was one beauty with long nose and the rounded end suggesting the aquiline1 the black eyebrows under the frontal bone1 the pouting lip1 and heavy chin and long slope of jaw1 and what they all have1 even the ugly 7like the ,jap girls71 a pretty setting of ears and neck and black-hair's growth4 ,but the children were prettier4 ,we had a neighbour who had many and who looked so plaintive1 and another1 though sick1 was jolly and smiling4 ,and another was like a chieftain 7or 8chiefess07 with three great furrows down her forehead above her nose4 ,but they all smiled with great sweetness1 and ,i wish our women could do as much4 ,all sullenness or sternness or disdain disappeared from the face4 ,they talked in ,english1 partly for convenience1 but a little1 ,i thought1 for the gallery1 the children mixing their languages1 and their mothers gliding back occasionally to it4 ,but the talk was just what it is everywhere--schools1 and how dear1 and what ideas are put into the children's heads and whether there is a distinction between those who pay more or less1 or have scholarships and something about prices in general4 ,one is reading 8,sabina ,zembra0 and we talk a little while the ship rolls1 rendered sympathetic by suffering1 and ,i am sure that two of my good ladies do not consider themselves kanaka1 at least if ,i am to judge by their reference to kanaka and such like2 but they are brown like berries1 one light1 the other sallow4 ,illustration3 8,the ,chiefess0 ,later in the afternoon ,i go forward in the dance of our passage to the next island of ,maui2 the island lies before us across the sea1 so sky-like that it is difficult to realize that the vast slopes are of earth2 that the greenish hue1 now and then1 under the violet of the bank of heavy clouds1 all brilliant and shining like satin1 is not thicker air--just such tones make the island as with us make winter skies4 ,far off to the southeast stretches under clouds another line1 that of the further ,maui which ends above in ,haleakala1 the extinct volcano4 ,as we draw near1 the sun is setting1 the jib and mainsail curving before us in shadow and light1 as we drop a little to the south1 repeat near to us the colours of the island and of the clouds4 ,these hang far forward toward us1 while the slope of green and peachy grey runs up behind it2 and we glide soon into more quiet waters1 and stop off the town of ,lahaina4 ,then long hours are spent in unloading and loading1 so that when we sail again1 we only faintly see the mass of ,haleakala4 ,but in the morning1 with the dawn which has no colour1 but in which1 to the east1 stand up1 in some sort of richer violet shade1 the outlines of ,hawaii1 we see further the great slopes of ,mauna ,loa1 so gentle that it is difficult to tell where the flat top is reached1 and where the slopes begin again on the other side2 and then we stop in the early sunlight4 ,a fisherman comes up with fish2 other boats 7outriggers all7 with fruit1 and we see what ,i was telling you when ,i began to write4 ,and later we have come to a great bank of black rock running out to sea1 and precipices of black spotted with a green all of one colour1 which is where ,cook was killed1 and where they have put up a little monument to him4 ,this is ,kaawaloa4 ,we try the land1 for the roll of the ship is disagreeable1 as it waits1 and we run in over the transparent water4 ,it is too deep just by the landing for anchorage4 ,the sea jumps from light aquamarine to the colour of a peacock's breast in the shadow4 ,we go up the black lava that looks as if it had been run out on the road1 not under it1 and sit in the shade a moment1 and exchange a few words with our fellow passengers now on land--a little flock of tired children and mother1 and our 8chiefess40 ,and it is hot--the heights have shut off the wind1 and all is baking4 ,horses and donkeys1 saddled1 stand about near the shadow of fences1 left to themselves1 while the cargo is landed4 ,higher up on the heights some planters tell us it is cool4 ,they wear enormous hats1 and have a planter-like appearance that suggests our being different4 ,as ,i look around on this green and black1 and the few cocoanuts1 and the dark blue-green olive water1 ,i think that it is not an unlikely place for a man to have been killed in4 ,the place has for ,hawaiians another interest3 it was once a great place1 and the high cliffs have many holes where chiefs are buried1 inaccessible and hidden4 ,and a little way beyond was a city of refuge--that is to say1 a sacred city--where none who took refuge could be injured4 ,even though the enemy came rushing up to the last outlying landmark1 the moment that it had been passed1 the pursued was safe1 and after having sojourned according to due rite1 could depart in peace and safety4 ,after this1 and the same story of like places below the edge of the green table that slopes up to the sky and further on to the clouds1 we stop1 and the white boat takes our last passengers in the blue water2 its white keel looking as if washed with blue4 ,the people wait on the shore under less and less shadow1 and on the other side we have now the enormous ocean opposed to this big slope1 not as last evening1 when always we had an island1 now before1 now behind1 now to our side1 as if we were in some inland sea4 ,that is to say that now the sea occupies more than half of the whole circle that we can sweep1 though we are only a few rods from shore4 ,do you realize the difference8 ,at last we are on the outlying edge of the group1 and will soon this afternoon round the island1 and stop at the place where we take the road to the volcano of ,kilauea4 ,sunday night4 ,at the volcano of ,kilauea4 ,as ,i wrote ,i had no notion of the importance and eventfulness of a landing at night4 ,as we came around the hard black cape marked with lava flow it was already dark1 so we could not distinctly see the shore1 though above were great slopes and some buttresses and heavy hills standing out from the mass4 ,we could see lights at the place called ,punaluu1 where we were to land4 ,the steamer shrieked and stopped as we prepared to leave it and come down the companion ladder to the heavy boat dancing below it4 ,women were first dropped in1 and one by one gradually we men jumped into the hollow1 half packed with trunks and boxes and men balancing themselves in the rolling4 ,perhaps had ,i been more accustomed to these forms of landing ,i might have seen less of a picture2 but when ,i had got down1 and watched the next passengers from below1 and danced high up to them1 and heard them told 8,now60 or 8,not yet60 as we came too high or too low or struck the bottom of the ladder1 7so as to make one wonder whether we should not capsize in a rougher sea71 when ,i could look at their foreshortening1 and saw the heavy lower forms of the kanaka ladies1 under their flowing drapery1 and then saw them tuck their one long outer garment between those legs in a great bunch1 to be untied at the next step and heard their discussions1 ,i enjoyed the play1 even if ,i was part of it4 ,the talk was in kanaka1 but its meaning was plain3 the two ladies objected to jumping just then or before or after1 and it was now too high1 now too low1 and in general they expressed all possible doubts regarding the process4 ,one of them especially1 whom ,i had seen much of during the day1 a massive archaic person1 with the manners and features that might have belonged to an ,eve of some other1 more cannibalistic tradition than ours1 poured all this out with a voice heavier than the roar of the water or the grinding of the boat's gunwale against the companionway and her declamation was answered by a chorus from the boatmen1 with the accompaniment of shifting lights1 so that my simile of a play was but natural4 ,at length we were all stowed in and departed1 one sailor still standing as he had from the beginning1 balanced with a child in his arms4 ,at the little wharf the scene was repeated on a small scale1 while above us the one lantern lit the legs of an expectant multitude2 and at length we were singled out by the host who was to take care of us1 and who had the one single hotel or house1 to which we were sent up with a lantern4 ,then we rested4 ,adams had suffered very much from the tossing1 so much so as to make me anxious1 and ,i too was much the worse for the wear of the last two hours of resting in harbour while waiting for boats to go out and return4 ,we had some food and rooms given us by the ,chinaman factotum1 major-domo1 cook1 servant1 etc42 and later our host appeared in his shirt-sleeves1 and asked our intentions and whether we were to go right off in the morning to the volcano4 ,having ascertained these facts1 he selected one of the party--we were four1 we three and some one else--and to this some one he poured out some information1 mainly about the bad sides of the other way to the volcano--the ,hilo way2 its raininess1 and in general all the wrongfulness of ,hilo people4 ,with that he also poured forth his bottom thoughts about the whole business that he had charge of1 the idiotic way in which people travelled to see the volcano without sufficient practice on other volcanoes beforehand1 so that invalids 7he called them inwalids7 found it difficult to ride on horseback1 and some were sometimes thrown from mules1 and in general he showed the folly of trusting to the advertisements of his own enterprise4 ,for he is1 ,i understand1 a great man1 who has this road and runs it4 ,all this ,i absorbed before going to bed1 so as to prepare for the next day1 which began early with the ,chinaman1 and making for the train4 ,the train is a little engine with two platforms on wheels1 that runs to a plantation some few miles off4 ,one platform had a roof for the gentry2 the other was loaded with the common people1 consisting of some ,swedish women and children1 some ,hawaiians1 and one or two young people who belonged to our side1 but preferred riding thus1 thereby escaping the smoke that we got4 ,we had a watchman and a ,chinaman on the engine4 ,at the start we were requested to trim our weights4 ,the ,hawaiian lady who had been a tragedy the evening before1 was on our side1 and whatever side she had taken1 that would have been the heavy one4 ,but still we risked it1 and ran along the little road which occasionally passed over trestling and did have something of a reason for trimming4 ,the ride was lovely except for the smoke4 ,we had left the shore at which we had landed the night before1 for the car ran to the little jetty1 where the sand was as black as ink--volcano dust1 with a fringe of white like teeth4 ,then we slowly gained some heights1 and saw behind us the great blue sea and white headlands2 black lava looking grey in the sunshine1 and to our left the great hills and slopes4 ,and we ran by the sugar-cane and through a country with few or no trees1 a great surface of up and down of moors1 until we came to the plantation1 where we stopped4 ,everybody had reached home except ourselves1 and our accidental companion4 ,we found a covered wagon with two mules and two horses1 into which we were packed with difficulty1 as our luggage was bulkier than is customary1 owing to my not having been able to persuade our host to allow me to reship some that we did not want4 ,he could not 8fuss with such matters40 ,in fact he was right4 ,the whole affair is merely for the convenience of travellers2 on the part of the people who undertake it1 there is no need of it and one feels indebted to them for the courtesy they show in allowing one to pass through their place1 even though they charge for the same4 ,so we rolled slowly over the great downs1 upon some sort of a trail1 occasionally perturbed by some stones1 or perhaps banked up with no incident4 ,the great mountain was being covered with clouds1 but the sea spread far below us1 the capes at the corner1 and the east of the shore glistening as if silvered1 and white upon their local blackness4 ,it was as ,newport beaches might look upon a gigantic scale4 ,here and there a few trees 7the ohia71 stood up1 orange-brown butterflies1 ,parnassians1 flew continually across our path1 spotting the entire landscape all busy with their loves4 ,a few birds1 plovers1 ,i believe1 rose at a distance1 or flew across1 or with a cry1 peewits waved to and fro on the slopes below us4 ,by and by1 at noon1 we came to more trees2 the landscape became more shut in1 the sea disappeared behind the slopes we were leaving1 and we took lunch at a convenient shanty where we were well treated1 and tasted the native ohia berries4 ,then we entered a rockier soil1 much broken up1 with much black dust1 and with many trees1 all small and as if lost1 something like little back country lanes--anywhere4 ,and this went on and on1 and we walked sometimes1 in despair of our mules and horses1 driven by a driver who urged them with word and whip1 and occasionally with stones1 without being able to get them much out of a walk1 broken by an occasional trot4 ,then things were colder1 and on a landscape of no shape1 with blocks of lava thrown over the soil as if by the spade of journeyman or maker of worlds2 with ever so many queerly conventional trees1--the ohia before mentioned1 which has yellow trumpet flowers--and many others2 and at last many ferns1 and more ferns1 and the tree ferns4 ,we saw on our right some cloudy forms of smoke rising toward the clouds of only a little warmer tint than they1 and that was the smoke and steam of ,kilauea--which was really below us1 hidden under the edge of the desolate plateau we were driving on4 ,then we came to more vegetation and many ferns1 and we suddenly saw the glance of a sulphur bank1 yellow1 green1 and white1 like the surface of certain beans2 and we drove up toward the house that stands by the volcano4 ,it was not yet dark1 but dark enough to see confusedly the crater just below us1 only a few yards away1 a mass of black1 and high walls around it1 and three cones apparently in the distance1 with steam about them1 and steam issuing near them in many places1 so that the further wall was dim4 ,and steam near us came out of crevices at our feet1 and on our road1 and a little everywhere1 where ferns grew richer--and we had arrived4 ,we went in to make our host's acquaintance1 and got our simple rooms in a sort of rough farmhouse1 with doors opening on the verandah1 and in front of the crater of the volcano4 ,and we sat later at dinner1 and after dinner by the fire 7for a fire was pleasant in the damp1 cold air71 and heard him talk1 and spoke to him about ,mr4 ,dana's book1 and the changes in the crater1 and all the volcano talk that can come out of the absorption of much reading and much hearing4 ,maby 7our host7 talks of danger to his children from the steam fissures just mentioned4 ,kilauea--,the ,volcano4 ,maby1 the keeper of the hotel1 is not the old gentleman of ,dana's book1 but a person whom ,i should describe if ,i had the time4 ,he is a ,new ,yorker1 and has been away since the early war1 and has sailed about much in this part of the world4 ,the type is a well known one to us1 and amusing enough4 ,he is married to a ,hawaiian woman1 also shrewd-looking1 good-looking1 reminding one of many people with us1 with a high forehead and thick lips2 and has many children who play about1 and make the place seem less showlike4 ,as we gather around the fireplace1 ,maby tells us stories of himself1 and sailor yarns that interest us as regarding places we are looking to4 ,one about ,nukahiva has a flavour of ,melville about it4 ,it shows ,maby landed there1 and being told that he must 7unless he wishes to behave suspiciously71 report to the governor4 ,this official receives the visit graciously1 but requires a poll-tax of two dollars1 not asking directly1 but by the proper channel4 ,maby states that two dollars he has not1 but offers to work it out2 whereat he is taken at his word1 and helps toward the completion1 carpentering and painting1 of the governor's house2 and after some long stay1 at fair wages1 offers to deduct his two dollars4 ,but no1 says the governor1 he is now in government employ1 and not liable to taxation4 ,in connection with this story1 in my sleepy memory1 is one of some expedition1 with the governor and his army of one gendarme 78jenny dee arms10 ,maby calls it71 into the interior1 or1 rather1 along the shore1 for the purpose of levying the tax4 ,money there is none at the first place they come to1 so that the gendarme is ordered to take a pig or so in payment4 ,but the country has been aroused4 ,men come flocking down with old flint-guns1 a retreat along the beach to the boat is ordered1 and the pigs are abandoned on the way4 ,all this was capital1 as was ,maby's delight at the absurdity of some savage who knew not of gold1 and to whom an ,englishman gave a piece of gold instead of silver4 ,as he complained1 ,maby relieved him of his anxiety by taking it and giving him the desired shilling4 ,with many stories we sat up and went late to bed1 looking out on a darkish night1 wherein two slight illuminations at a distance meant the light of the volcano4 ,but nothing looked propitious4 ,dana ,lake was quiet2 there was only a little fire on the edges of the lake4 ,maby spoke as if something must happen elsewhere from the quiet of the volcano here4 ,in the morning ,adams woke me out of sound sleep2 the air was cold1 damp1 and the room decidedly so during the night4 ,as ,i came out the sun was rising4 ,before us was the volcano1 still in shadow1 but the walls of the crater lit up pink in the sun1 and farther out the long line of ,mauna ,loa appearing to come right down to these cliffs1 all clear and lit up except for the shadow of one enormous cloud that stretched half across the sky4 ,the floor of the crater1 of black lava1 was almost all in shadow1 so that as it stretched to its sunlit walls it seemed as if all below was shadow4 ,in the centre of the space smoked the cones that rise from the bed of the crater4 ,through this vapour we saw the further walls1 and on the other side of the flow1 as it sloped away from us1 more steam marked the lava openings at ,dana ,lake1 invisible to us4 ,we sketched that day and lounged in the afternoon1 the rain coming down and shutting out things2 but in the noon ,i ,illustration3 ,,central ,,cone ,,of ,,volcano ,,of ,,kilauea1 ,,hawaii was able to make a sketch in the faint sunlight2 and that was of no value1 but as ,i looked and tried to match tints1 ,i realized more and more the unearthly look that the black masses take under the light4 ,a slight radiance from these surfaces of molten black glass gives a curious sheen1 that far off in tones of mirage does anything that light reflected can do1 and fills the eye with imaginary suggestions4 ,hence the delightful silver2 hence the rosy coldness1 that had made fairylands for us of the desert aridity4 ,but nearer1 the glitter is like that of the moon on a hard cold night1 and the volcano crater ,i shall always think of as a piece of dead world1 and far away in the prismatic tones of the mountain sides1 ,i shall see a revelation of the landscapes of the moon4 ,late in the afternoon the young ,australian1 or whatever he was1 who had been with us1 went down with a guide into the crater1 and returned toward ten o'clock with a story that ,dana ,lake had broken4 ,he had seen the grey surfaces move and tumble over like ice pack into the fire1 and we were proportionately curious to see and unwilling to go4 ,for ,i must own that it has been rather out of duty than otherwise that we have been here4 ,neither of us cares for climbing1 and certainly the pleasure of seeing fire near by must be very exciting to amount to pleasure4 ,yet we went next day and toiled down to the surface of the crater1 which is accessible from our side by a zigzag path4 ,by and by one gets to the surface of the crater1 which rises to the centre and 7when one is on it7 shows nothing but a desolate labyrinth of rocks4 ,we walk over this tiresome surface that destroys the sole of the boot1 following more or less in single file1 because of crevasses that are deep1 and at the end of a walk of some three miles1 we approach the cones that rise high above us1 perhaps seventy feet4 ,maby says that they are higher than they were1 for this whole surface of lava is movable1 and parts of it like the cones float over a molten surface underneath4 ,think of it as glass and you will just get the simile that it makes mentally4 ,to the eyes it is rock2 around the cones there are loose disorderly rocks piled up like loose stones in a fence--absolutely like it1 which loose formation is called a-a in ,hawaiian1 as the flowing1 smooth lava1 on which we have mainly walked1 is called pa-hoe-hoe4 ,some of it is in crusts that are hollow to the tread1 and that give way suddenly1 to one's annoyance1 for it is hard to realize that it is still solid underneath4 ,especially as here our guide points out a small cone about a mile off1 sticking out of a confusion or heap of broken rocks1 or above the broken rocks that are before us and below us1 for we are now walking on a colossal loose stone fence--far off1 ,i say1 in this confusion is a single cone1 with a red glow in it4 ,and now we cross a little more fence2 the smooth and crusty surface is hot to the feet2 we look down and see grey and red lines in the cracks below us that are fire2 and then a few feet off1 we look into and between some rocks1 and see the lava flowing along1 exactly like glass when it is cooling and growing red from former whiteness1 a slow1 viscous1 sticky dropping into some hole below4 ,then we go back quickly and paddle along toward the other slope of the floor1 where steam is rising2 and by and by1 as the light is waning after our two hours' walk1 we get within a short distance of the wall edge1 and see a space apparently near higher rocks1 some seventy feet high1 ,i am told1 which is ,dana ,lake4 ,there is now only vapour2 sulphurous fumes that float up and obscure the distance1 and go up into the skies4 ,but as the twilight begins1 fires come out and the space is edged with fire that sometimes colours the clouds of vapour4 ,at one side a small cone stands up1 that burns with an eye of red fire4 ,from time to time this opening spits out to one side a little vicious blotch of fire4 ,the clouds of vapour rise so as to blur the distance1 but near by the rocks are clear enough1 and either black1 or further off where they are cliffs1 are greenish yellow with sulphur4 ,sizes become uncertain4 ,i could swear that this lake was a thousand feet long and the cliffs were five hundred feet2 but ,awoki and the guide1 walking along1 reduce the lake to real proportions4 ,then it is only a small lake of some hundred and fifty to two hundred feet1 perhaps4 ,but the impression still remains--all is so thrown out of reference4 ,the hole is so uncanny2 the sky above1 purple with the yellow of the afterglow1 and partly covered by the yellowish tone of the hellish vapour1 looks high up above us4 ,i sit 7and sketch7 on the absurd rocks1 and then we wait for something to happen4 ,it has become night2 we determine to give up hope of the breaking up of the lake1 and we start4 ,we have lanterns1 but gradually these go out1 and we have only one that has to be cherished1 and we scramble along4 ,by and by we halt1 and looking back see greater lights1 and our guide says that the lake has broken out4 ,still we are disinclined to return on the chance1 for the vapours exaggerate everything2 and after much scrambling we get back to the edge of the crater1 after a seven hours' tramp4 ,as we go up the ascent the fires seem larger1 and our host and the guides say that there is some breaking out4 ,still we are in doubt2 we are disappointed and tired4 ,and still ,i should not go back unless the most extraordinary conflagration occurred4 ,besides the undefined terror and spookiness of the thing1 there is great boredom4 ,there is nothing to take hold of1 as it were--no centre of fire and terror--only inconvenience and a faint fear of one thing--but what8 ,but even without fire1 the remainder of those dread hollows is something to affect the mind4 ,judge ,dole was telling us ,illustration3 ,,crater ,,of ,,kilauea ,,and ,,the ,,lava ,,bed4 ,,hawaii that he could not get out of his memory his having looked down the hollow of the pit of ,halemaumau1 then just extinct1 and having seen an inverted hollow cone all in motion1 with rock and dbris rolling down to some indefinite centre far below4 ,i still have 7as ,i write at ,hilo7 the scent of sulphur in my memory4 ,from time to time1 in our ride to ,hilo next morning1 this smell would come up1 perhaps in reality4 ,that was a bad ride1 all over a sort of lava bed like a mountain torrent4 ,then it ended in the beginning of a road of red earth1 soft and spongy1 and up to the bellies of the horses4 ,there we met1 after fifteen miles of it1 a carriage and horses that took us to ,hilo1 over a pretty road through a pretty tropical forest1 to this little old place1 the abode of quiet and cocoanut trees1 where are very pleasant people2 among them ,m4 ,furneaux1 the artist1 who shows us sketches1 and talks to me of what ,i sympathize with--the being driven to means unusual to us1 when we try to give an impression of the tone of colour here4 ,ride from ,hilo around the east of ,island of ,hawaii1 ,september #aith to #bb;d4 ,it will be difficult to give you an account of our ride4 ,as to the places1 the names are indifferent1 ,i think1 and if ,i occasionally mention them1 it is more for my own help than for yours4 ,our ride was to be certainly for three days and more1 over what is known as a very bad road2 up and down through the gulches that edge the shore1 breaking the line of our travel1 and making little harbours where the surf ran in to meet the little torrents or runs that hurried to them in cascades or waterfalls4 ,it was1 for the first day or so1 beautiful2 not so very grand1 except that the simplicity of the scene1 consisting of the sea1 high rocks1 and some little river running down1 had always that importance that belongs to the typical4 ,time and time again we had the high rocky banks of the little bays covered with trees2 then in the centre of the shore1 a little half island1 with tall cocoanuts1 and on one or both sides of it1 the torrent and cascade rushing down1 and the surf running in in a great lacelike spread over the black sand4 ,once when ,i stopped to sketch for an hour or so1 ,i enjoyed the essence of a type of scene that is with difficulty described1 though every one knows it1 and with difficulty painted1 though any one might attempt it4 ,from the hillside hidden in trees came over some very low rocks a cascade of two rills1 and at its feet lay a little sheet of water1 of perhaps some fifty yards in length and very narrow4 ,on either side high rocks crowned with great ferns and much moss1 and behind the few lauhala 7pandanus7 trees upon them1 and great banana leaves in some hollow4 ,the rocks were black1 spotted with green and white1 and at their feet ran a little rim of sand4 ,this for the land end of the basin4 ,at the open sea end high rocks running far out into headlands1 with many trees and bushes1 so as to make walls1 along which the sea rushed heavily to some little bar1 at one end of which1 on a small bluff with huts1 grew a few cocoanut trees tossing in the wind3 one would wish there were more4 ,and the sea running far up over this sand melted with a cross current into the run of the little stream1 so gently that each looked like a separate tide4 ,here the road crossed the ford1 coming on either side from high-up banks4 ,near the rocks were the marked edges of the road1 and up the stream1 canoes1 with white ends like the cusp of the moon1 and white outriggers protected with thatch1 lay on the grass4 ,illustration ,as ,i sat on some wet rocks near the sea1 to sketch1 ,i could see what happened during the day4 ,some wayfarer came down the slope1 pushed across the stream his horse that put down its head to taste the brackish water2 children and older natives crossed barefooted the less deep water2 high up1 some practised native in best dress1 crossed at some well-known ford by adding a few stones4 ,later1 loud cries1 and the noise of a sail coming down4 ,i could see them without looking1 for ,i had to paint hard with my face turned the other way1 and hurried by occasional showers4 ,for our sky was all cloudy and wet1 though faint drops of sunshine fell also here and there4 ,but the horizon1 as ,i sat so low1 was all clear of that unearthly blue of the islands1 against which danced the grey sea1 and the triple line of grey surf1 white perhaps otherwise1 but dull against such a clearness of green aquamarine air4 ,then the fishermen landed on the rocks and showed their fish1 and all rushed that way1 all but the girl who had come to sit behind me1 and followed my work1 perhaps to see what ,i was trying to make out4 ,but she too succumbed when a half naked man held up a silvery fish of some mackerel shape right before me and her1 and she ran off to the house near the cocoanut trees4 ,then the fishermen took off their ragged clothes1 and washed them in the stream1 within a foot or so of the tide-water2 great strapping fellows when out of their clothes1 with heavy muscles1 splendid and brown like nuts1 and sometimes with red breech-clouts1 that brought out the olive of the wet skin4 ,then they bathed1 plunging in the deeper channel1 where the waves of their movement married the tide of the sea with the current of the stream4 ,and later an old man with peaked grey beard sat down and washed his clothes1 then walked in and lay down1 he too as handsome in his nakedness1 as he had looked broken down in his shabby clothes4 ,then he rose and slowly put on the wet clothes1 to reappear later in a cleaner dress4 ,and a ,chinaman charged across the stream on his mule1 splashing the water about him4 ,then as the fishermen were gone1 and all the boys and the women1 probably to their meal just caught1 all noise ceased1 except the rush of the surf and the ripple of the tide1 and in some interval the trickling of the little cascade4 ,above1 the wind rustled at times the palms4 ,noonday and rest had come4 ,and ,i left my work1 and again on horseback trudged along the impossible road4 ,sunday #bast4 ,as ,i went up the bank1 a small furtive animal like a weasel ran up the perpendicular face of the big rock by the waterfall4 ,it was a mongoose1 an animal of a race imported to destroy the pest of rats1 and now a plague in itself1 and an example of the eternal story4 ,the lower part of the sky was clear1 with small pearly clouds1 the upper yet covered with heavy mist1 so that the ocean was framed as above1 and occasionally the view confined on the sides by the projecting rocks of the gulches1 into which ran the sea and surf4 ,once1 at ,onomea1 the cliff was hollowed into a great arch1 beyond which the rock1 all green with foliage1 rose further out4 ,whether framed in by such cliffs1 or stretched out beyond a single gaze1 the ocean accompanied us most of the time--the ocean1 distinctly1 not recalling the seas of our shores1 but the great sea1 hiding the secret of its blue dyes in depths of full three thousand fathoms4 ,and over its blue ran a perpetual story4 ,rarely during our few days was the whole surface under one influence4 ,we saw faint mists and rain-clouds brushed over the water1 often separated by intervals of sunny sapphire2 the sky above still lit up and peaceful4 ,sometimes a part of the ocean was wiped out and became sky2 sometimes great bars of grey broke across it2 and again1 as these rolled over the stilled edge of the waves1 rainbows shone either where they joined the sea1 or through their entire height1 up into the upper air4 ,for this great deceptive space seemed at our distance so peaceful1 even when we could see the surf dashing in folds on the rocks and black beaches4 ,sometimes a solitary whitecap dotted it1 or when the wind blew more1 many spots of broken light threw a rosy bloom over the enchanted surface4 ,islands of reflected light1 islands of purple shadow repeated the clouds above1 and often the parent cloud1 along with its reflected lights and its shadows1 touched and melted into the waves1 making enclosures1 within which the eye could see vaguely1 a trembling repetition of light and dark2 and sometimes1 perhaps most when ,illustration3 ,,men ,,bathing ,,in ,,the ,,river ,,near ,,the ,,sea4 ,,onomea1 ,,island ,,of ,,hawaii seen as a background to some trees or rocks1 or grey native hut1 with a figure in waving red or white framed in the blue opening through it1 the distance and the sky melted into mere spaces of slightly different colour4 ,the eye never tired of this surface of blue below a greener sky1 that repeated in the air that colour of greenness 7blue-tint shade7 that rests the sight4 ,on land1 meanwhile1 our roads were good or bad1 mostly bad1 but not the terrors that we had heard of4 ,our poor nags struggled through deep mud at times1 or slipped up and down in the rocks and loose stones of the gulches1 or floundered in the river-beds1 dropping up and down as they found footing on hidden boulders1 or cantered in a tired way over some little piece of road near plantations4 ,but their attention was mostly engaged in stepping along over the half-dried road1 looking and feeling like our old 8corduroy0 roads1 the logs being represented by bars of higher and drier mud4 ,over these we rose and sank1 and ,i had plenty of time to meditate upon the idiocy of that sentimental animal1 the horse1 and his relative want of judgment4 ,never did our beasts step in any reasoned way upon these alternations of ground1 though the little mule of our guide1 as he trotted ahead1 never going very fast1 never very slow1 showed his romantic relatives what pure intellect1 devoid of emotions1 can do in the practical line4 ,with such nonsense ,i perforce diverted my mind1 when confined within the limits of the road4 ,but our horses had plenty of rest2 we took four whole days for those ninety miles1 stopping to sketch1 and going to ask for lunch or dinner1 and bed1 at the plantations on our road4 ,the only difficulty seemed to be our own hesitation at the impudence of our requests4 ,but this is the custom4 ,our visit had been telephoned ahead by acquaintances2 for the telephone1 that most citylike of our contrivances1 goes around the island1 joining together places that are difficult to reach and out of the way4 ,and so we met pleasant people by chance1 and heard about things accidentally by way of conversation1 and were most kindly treated4 ,indeed1 when on one occasion our amiable hostess asked us to remain over night1 and we had listened to ,german music1 and had talked with the doctor in charge of the plantations1 and our host himself arrived from the fields1 it seemed hard to go and break our feeling of content4 ,perhaps ,i ought to tell you something about the plantations1 but that is too much like information--and what do you need it for8 ,all that we saw was sugar1 which occupies the east coast2 on the other side of the island1 as different as the other side of the continent1 there are cattle ranches1 and we were told that most of the sugar land that is available has been taken already4 ,most of the low land1 ,i suppose2 for the upper land further from the sea is often reclaimed and used1 but it is less favourable4 ,the yield by the acre below1 at the highest1 has been about eight tons1 while the upper is not more than five2 all this upon land which a few years ago was forest--wide downs now--covered either with sugar-cane or grass1 and dotted with trees1 were all covered to the sea edge1 which1 where ,i write now is a cliff fully eight hundred feet high4 ,the sugar plantations employ many ,chinese and ,japanese labourers1 of whom there are a good many thousand1 and we saw on two occasions 8camps0 of ,japanese1 as they are called4 ,in the shops or stores attached to one plantation 7as in others71 ,i saw the ,japanese costume again1 for men and women--the kimono and the obi and the geta or wooden clogs2 of course they are mostly peasants or of low class1 as ,i could easily surmise without inquiring1 by ,awoki's manner4 8,they are great children10 says our good lady to me1 and the doctor at one residence has much to say about the anomalous position he stands in with regard to them and others4 ,he is employed by the government to inspect them1 as well as other hands1 to see that they are not made to work in illness1 and he also examines the flock1 in the interest of the employers1 to see that they do not shirk4 ,the result is that he is a physician who cannot trust the word of his patient about his ailings1 after his patient has made up his mind to be ill1 who if one ailing is dismissed1 will call up as many as may seem available--and inscrutable4 ,i am told that the ,japanese illness1 kakke1 or as they call it here1 biri biri1 persists among them4 ,it is a form of slow paralysis1 having its premonitory symptoms2 sometimes to be cured1 but not often4 ,the patients1 not white1 have the better chance if they be under competent care1 for the government gives free medical attention1 and ,i understood that many avail themselves of it who could as well pay4 ,i need not say that the great tariff question is that of the moment2 free sugar with us will shake the ,hawaiian tree1 and weaker planters will go to the wall4 ,i always feel regret when ,i see all put into one chance1 so liable to fluctuation1 and it is to be hoped that coffee1 which here is excellent1 may succeed and grow more available4 ,i take it that the difficulty is always in the picking1 and that there may be chance for some improvement in the facility4 ,september #bb;d4 ,our last sugar plantation took us to the edge of the great valley of ,waipio1 from one to two thousand feet deep1 at the further and higher inland end of which drops a great waterfall2 from its outside sea-cliffs trickle down others from the lesser height of eight hundred4 ,but all was wrapped in mist1 for at this point of our ride we had almost the only bad weather of the trip4 ,here we turned toward the other side of the island1 across great downs and spreads of land like those we had seen on first landing on the island4 ,we were out of the rainy influence4 ,the whole spread of the landscape was that of dryness2 of the 8,sierras02 we rode at first through vast fields or spreads of green1 where the path was marked by the rooting of the pigs1 who here run loose and grow wild4 ,a great mountain slope rose to our left--,mauna ,kea--and as we dipped to the sea we had ,mount ,hualalai to continue it4 ,but that was after we had stopped on our last day's ride in a dry country1 where distances swam in the pale colours that belong to the volcanoes and the desert1 while near us green marked the foreground4 ,we rested and dreamed in midday1 at some hospitable residence1 from whose verandah1 in the great heat1 we saw ,hawaiians coursing recklessly about in the way you would like to ride2 and cattle on many hills2 while the young ladies in the shade made garlands 7leis7 for us to wear around our necks and hats on our last ride to the shore4 ,adams and ,i rode slowly down1 a mile behind the others1 in the blazing afternoon1 a most delicious air breaking the heat2 with that same sense of space that had accompanied our first day ashore4 ,and as the sun set like a clear ball of fire over the blue sea1 and sent rosy flickerings to the shore1 we came down to the edges of the bay4 ,above us to the left rose a hill crowned with the remains of some one building that trailed down its side1 still red in the sunlight4 ,to our right were palms and black sand and enclosures1 apparently deserted1 and with an afterglow like that of ,egypt1 a look of desolate ,africa4 ,in the dark we passed over the black sand1 and behind the trees through which the moon moved restlessly in the water1 and came up to an absurd little hotel kept by a ,chinaman1 where we dismounted among black pigs charging about1 and bade good-bye to amiable ,mr4 ,much1 our guide1 who had preceded us4 ,then we met1 at tea1 the manager of the last place 7,waimea7 we had dined at4 ,he told me of what ,i had missed by not getting in in the morning--the shipping of the steers1 which are parked out on the shore1 then singled out and lassoed by the 8boys10 whom they rush after into the sea1 where it is the horse and rider's business to get them to the boats4 ,to these their heads are secured1 and they are rowed off swimming1 willy-nilly1 to the steamers1 into which some contrivance hoists them4 ,these cattle came1 ,i understand1 from the great ranch of ,mr4 ,sam ,parker up in the mountains1 a wealthy ,hawaiian of partly white blood1 whose name is well known besides as giving hospitality in a lordly way in his lonely domain4 ,and in the evening we waited for the steamer1 not in the house of refuge and food1 where water was scarce1 and where poor ,mr4 ,much could get nothing to eat1 as being too late2 but near by1 under a verandah or wide canopy of palm branches lit up by the moonlight4 ,there we listened to ,hawaiian music--while our older hosts sat on the mats--melancholy chants adapted to ,european airs1 and among them one apparently original1 a sad1 romantic sort of cakewalk1 to which one could fancy dusky savage warriors keeping time1 with many foliage-adorned feet1 and hands tossed up and pointing out4 ,it was called the ,march of ,kamehameha 7the old conqueror of these islands71 and ,i let myself understand that it was a reproduction of the veritable sounds that once celebrated his triumphs and mastery over these islands2 from which dates the royalty now existing1 though his royal race itself is extinct4 ,and we1 too1 stretched on the mats brought out1 and listened to lazy talk in the language1 until the steamer came1 when all walked down in time to the wharf1 after the sheep and the freight had been put on board1 and we rowed out on the water smooth as that of a lake1 to the little steamer1 and later went to bed and waited until morning1 when we steamed for the next port and thence to ,honolulu1 and our own house in the valley4 ,we met on board many pleasant people1 and among others a former neighbour1 though unknown1 who is now one of the few ,american missionaries in the ,islands4 ,these1 ,i think he told me1 are all that remain who are salaried from ,america4 ,he spoke to us about ,mr4 ,hyde1 whom ,mr4 ,stevenson had been attacking1 as if he belonged to him by his name2 and explained how exaggerated was the notion of this gentleman's affluence4 ,all1 ,i understand1 that he gets1 besides what his wealthy family allow him 7and for that he could not be held responsible71 is some two thousand five hundred a year and his residence--surely not a large amount4 ,i have not myself read all that ,mr4 ,stevenson has written1 so that ,i have but a vague idea of the question1 but my informant tells me that ,father ,damien1 as is well understood1 was no saint1 and that two pastors had told him of things that looked wrong4 ,these are themselves rather vague to the outsider1 but much weight seemed to attach to them with our informant--a gentlemanly person1 who looked little like the usual clergyman1 and had a brave air of the church militant about him4 ,but it was more pleasant to talk to him about ,st4 ,gaudens1 whom he knew1 and about what he had done of late years2 for everywhere we find that there are others who know friends2 and the desert of ,gobi alone would be without home associations4 ,at ,sea1 ,oct4 #b1 #ahij4 ,yesterday we crossed the equator2 it was cool and pleasant1 as lovely as one could wish4 ,in the evening ,i found an overcoat comfortable4 ,to-day it is more salty and cloudy1 wind behind us more from the north2 indefinable blue sea that looks grey against the delicate blue and silver of the sky1 but near by1 under the guards1 it is like a greener lapis lazuli4 ,yesterday1 as ,i wrote1 we crossed the equator1 and left it with disrespect behind us1 almost unnoticed--the ,line1 as they used to call it4 ,and soon we shall have dropped the sun also1 which would1 were there no clouds1 no abundant awnings1 leave us with diminished shadows1 insufficient to cover our feet4 ,and at the thought of dropping him1 the old ,taoist wish of getting outside the points of the compass comes over me1 the feeling that leads me to travel4 ,can we never get to see things as they are1 and is there always a geographical perspective8 ,should ,i reach ,typee shall ,i find it invaded by others8 ,shall ,i find everywhere the company of our steamers8 ,on ,sunday morning we shall be dropped into a boat off ,tutuila1 some sixty miles away from the ,samoa to which we go4 ,how long we stay as ,i told you1 ,i do not know1 but we think of ,tahiti later1 and even other places1 that ,i dare not think of1 for ,i must return some day4 ,but before that day1 ,i wish to have seen a ,fayaway sail her boat in some other ,typee4 ,,passages ,,from ,a ,,diary ,,in ,,the ,,pacific ,,samoa ,off the island of ,tutuila1 on ,board the ,cutter ,carrying ,mail1 ,tuesday1 ,oct4 #g1 #ahij 7,samoan ,time74 ,the morning looked rainy with the contrary northwest wind that we had carried with us below the equator1 when the shape of the little cutter that was to take us showed between the outstanding rocks of the coast of ,tutuila4 ,as the big steamer slowed up1 a few native boats came out to meet it1 manned with men paddling and singing in concert1 some of them crowned with leaves1 and wearing garlands about their necks1 their naked bodies and arms making an indescribable red colour against the blue of the sea1 which was as deep under this cloudy sky1 but not so brilliant as under yesterday's sun4 ,they came on board1 some plunging right into the sea on their way to the companion ladder1 bringing fruit and curiosities for sale4 ,but our time had come2 and we could only give a glance at the splendid nakedness of the savages adorned by fine tattooing that looked like silk1 and with waist drapery of brilliant patterns4 ,we dropped into the dancing boat that waited for us and scrambled into the little cutter or schooner some thirty feet long1 not very skilfully managed1 that was to ,illustration3 ,,fayaway ,,sails ,,her ,,boat4 ,,samoa take us sixty miles against the wind to ,apia4 ,a few minutes1 and the steamer was far away2 and we saw the boats of the savages make a red fringe of men on the waves that outlined the horizon--a new and strange sensation1 a realizing of the old pictures in books of travel and the child traditions of ,robinson ,crusoe4 ,our crew was made up of the captain1 a brown man from other and far-away islands1 and two blacks1 former cannibals from ,solomon ,islands1 with gentle faces and manners1 and rings of ivory in their noses4 ,our captain spoke of hurry1 and used strange words not clear to understand in his curious lingo2 but after an hour or so of heavy rain he announced his intention to beat in again and wait for some change of wind4 ,and so we ran into a little harbour high with mountains1 all wooded as if with green plumage1 cornered by a high rock standing far out1 on which stood out1 like great feathers1 a few cocoa-palms4 ,palms fringed the shore with shade4 ,a blue-green sea ran into a thin line of breakers--like one of the places we have always read of in 8,robinson ,crusoe0 and similar travellers3 8,a little cove with the surf running in1 and a great swell on the shore40 ,our cutter was anchored2 then1 as we declined to remain on board1 either in the rain or in the impossible little cabin about eight feet long1 we were taken into the boat1 which was skilfully piloted through an opening in the inside reef2 and1 the surf being high1 we were carried to shore on the backs of two handsome fellows whose canoe had come alongside4 ,we walked up to the church1 a curious long1 low building behind the cocoa-palms2 all empty1 with thatched roofs and walls of coral cement2 the doorway open1 with two stones to block out casual straying pigs1 ,i suppose4 ,inside ,i saw a long wooden trough1 blocked out of a tree4 ,i did not know that this was the old war-drum of pagan times1 now used for the ,christian bell4 ,behind the church1 a few yards off1 was our destination--a ,samoan 8grass-house10 the guest-house of the village1 as ,i know now4 ,it was thatched with sugar-cane leaves1 was elliptical1 with a turtle-backed roof1 supported by pillars all around1 and by three central pillars that were connected by curved beams1 from which hung cocoanut cups and water-bottles1 or which supported rolls of painted bark cloth4 ,the pebble floor showed at places not covered with the mats1 as well as near the centre pillars1 where a fire still smoked4 ,most of the screens of matting1 which make the only wall between the pillars1 were down1 making a gentle shade1 in which one woman was sleeping2 another1 on the opposite side to us1 her back turned and naked to the waist1 was working at large folds of bark cloth4 ,the women rose from this occupation1 and offered their hands1 saying1 8alofa60#a ,a younger woman was lying sick1 her wrapped-up head on the ,samoan pillow of a long bamboo1 supported at either end1 so as to free it from the ground4 ,with the same 8alofa0 came an elegant young creature1 perhaps some sixteen years old1 wearing a gay waist drapery of flowered pattern1 red1 yellow1 and purple--with a loose upper garment or chemise of red and violet--open at the sides4 ,then another1 short and strong1 with heavy but handsome arms and legs1 and with bleared eyes4 ,and we sat down on the mats1 the girls cross-legged1 and looked at each other while the captain talked1 ,i know not what of4 ,as ,i changed my seat and sat near the entrance with my back against the pillars1 which is the ,samoan fashion1 though ,i did not know it1 another tall creature entered1 and giving us her hand with the 8alofa0 sat down against another pillar--also the proper dignified ,samoan way4 ,we did not notice her much2 she was quieter1 less pretty than the pretty one1 with a longer face1 a nose more curved at the end1 a longer upper lip1 and more quietly dressed in the same way4 ,then entered another with a disk-shaped face1 her hair all plastered white with the coral lime they use to redden the hair1 and dressed as the others1 with the same bare arms and legs4 ,she was heavy and strong below1 and less developed above1 with the same splendid walk and swing1 the same beauty of the setting of the head on the neck4 ,and we drank cocoanut milk1 while kava was being prepared for us in an enchantment of movement and gesture1 that ,i had just begun to feel1 as if these people had cultivated art in movement and personal gesture1 because they had no other plastic expression4 ,the movements of the two girls preparing the stuff would have made ,carmencita's swaying appear conventional2 so1 perhaps1 angels and divinities1 when they helped mortals in the kitchen and household4 ,as the uglier girl scraped the root into the four-legged wooden bowl set between the two1 in front of us1 and before the central pillars1 she moved her hand and body to a rhythm distinctly timed2 and when her exquisite companion took it up1 and1 wetting the scraped root from double cocoanut shells1 that hung behind her1 moved her arms around in the bowl and wiped its rim1 and frothed the mass with a long wisp of leafy filaments1 she tossed the wet bunch to her companion1 as if finishing some long cadence of a music that we could not hear1 too slow to be played or sung1 too long for anything but the muscles of the body to render4 ,and she who received it1 squeezed it out with a gesture fine enough for ,mrs4 ,siddons or ,mademoiselle ,georges4 ,i use these names of the stage1 of which ,i have no fixed idea2 those that ,i have seen could never have given1 even in inspired moments of passion1 such a sinuous long line to arm and hand4 ,then in a similar repetition of conventional attitudes the cups were presented to us1 one after the other1 with a great under-sweep of the full-stretched arm1 and we drank the curious drink1 which leaves the taste filled with an aroma not unlike the general aromatic odour of all around us1 of flowers and of shrubs4 ,for all was clean and dry about us1 house and surroundings and crowded people1 at least to the senses that smell4 99 99 99 99 99 ,in the slow hypnotism produced by mutual curiosity1 by gazing with attention all centred on movement1 while pretending to notice all the social matters as they went on about us1 ,i could not disentangle myself from the girl who had bewitched us2 and as she sat clasping her elbows1 with her legs crossed in her lap1 like the images of ,japanese ,kwannon and of ,indian goddesses1 ,i tried to copy a few lines4 ,but the original ones flowed out again like water1 before ,i could fix them4 ,my model was conscious of the attention she called up1 and from that moment her eyes always met ours1 with a flirting smile1 half of encouragement1 half of shyness4 ,and now the tall girl that sat beside me1 with the quiet face and unquiet eyebrows1 put out her hand languidly to reach for my sketch-book4 ,she was the 8virgin of the village0--doubly important by being the old chief's daughter1 and elected to this representative position1 which entails1 at least1 the inconvenience of her being always watched1 guided1 and intimately investigated by the matrons appointed thereto4 ,the lines of my sketch1 that would have puzzled the ordinary amateur1 were clear to her3 8,see10 she said1 8here is ,sif1 clasping her elbows1 but her face is not made4 ,draw me10 and she moved away the hanging mats that obscured the light4 ,the sketch ,i made was bad1 representing to my mind a ,european with strange features4 ,i don't know what she thought of it1 but she recognized the chemise with ruffles on edges1 that covered her shoulders1 and made the motion of lifting it away1 which ,i was slow to understand4 ,her eyebrows moved with some question for which ,i had no ,english in my mind4 ,at last the word misonari8 as she looked toward ,adams1 explained what was meant2 ,i said 8no10 and looked approval4 ,she rose1 passed into the shade1 and sat again before me1 her upper garment replaced by a long1 heavy garland of leaves and the aromatic square-sided fruit of the pandanus1 that partly covered her firm young breast1 and lay in her lap against the folds of the bent waist4 ,but my drawing was scarcely better for all this1 and ,i gave it to her1 with the feeling that what made it bad for me1 its resemblance to a ,european1 might give it value for her4 ,all the time the temptation was strong to treat this child of another civilization as a little princess4 ,she had the slow manner1 the slightly disdainful look1 the appearance of knowing the value of her sayings and doings that make our necessary ideal of responsibility4 ,what though the ,princess puffed at my pipe1 meanwhile having secured a cigar1 less cared for1 behind her pretty ear2 what though she pressed two long1 slender fingers against her lips1 and spat through them1 according to some native elegance1 she knew that she was a personage and never was familiar1 even when she pressed my arm and shoulder1 and said1 8alofa oi10 8,i like you40 ,her forehead was high and gently sloping1 her eyebrows thin and movable1 the eye looked gently and firmly and directly2 the nose was a little curved at the heavy end1 the upper lip a little long 7and pulling on the pipe1 if she used it1 would lengthen it later yet more71 the neck and back of the head had the same beauty of line and setting that ,i had seen in ,hawaii1 and her shoulders1 and breast1 and strong1 lithe arms would have delighted a sculptor4 ,she wore her hair gathered up by a ,european comb1 and in front a forelock reddened to the tone of her face1 with the coral lime they used4 ,her legs were strong and fine and her feet only as large as one could expect1 with the soles hardened by use over stones and coral4 ,but she was not the pretty one2 her sister1 ,sif1 was that4 ,the charm of the older one1 8the virgin of the village10 was in this incomparable savage dignity1 that gave a formality to our visit4 ,what to us was an amusement was to her evidently one of the necessities of hospitality1 while ,sif could not move about or look without a ripple of laughter that undulated through her entire person4 ,occasionally1 however1 our 8chiefess0 looked at me with a gentle smile1 and said 8alofa60 and by and by1 after showing me that she could write1 and doing so in my album1 7where she dated her inscription ,oketopa1 our ,october71 she gave me a ring with her name ,uatea--or ,watea as she wrote it4 ,she partook of lunch1 eating after us 7along with the captain who appeared again on time71 and she refused to taste of some apples we had until we had some of her own fruit1 all ,i suppose according to some proprieties well defined4 ,then ,sif1 her sister1 met with a little adventure in unpacking our food for us4 ,the captain of the steamer had given us a block of ice on our leaving1 telling us that it was the last we should see in this part of the world1 and that it might comfort us during our long1 hot sail under the tropical sun4 ,in unrolling it1 and taking it up1 ,sif dropped it with a cry of 8afi60--8fire60 and for a few moments we struggled in an unknown tongue to explain what it might be4 ,but ,i took it for granted that she must have had some ,bible explanation of the places where the ,bible comes from--that is to say1 ,england and ,scotland2 hence about winter and bad weather1 and perhaps snow and ice4 ,while the family arranged for their meal we took a walk1 8now and again10 as our captain expressed it--almost all the words he knew4 ,we walked across what appeared to be the village green--a space of grass neatly cared for--edged by huts and trees1 the palms thickening in the distance and hiding the sudden and close slope of the mountain right above us4 ,bread-fruit trees were planted here and there near the houses1 the large leaves making a heavy green pattern against the innumerable shades of green1 the spotted trunks were dark2 even the cocoanut trees were only white by the sea4 ,we passed a tomb1 of a moundlike shape1 one lengthened cube placed upon another1 and the upper surfaces sloping to an edge like some of the early sarcophagi or ,italian tombs--a shape as simple and elegant as one could wish in such an ideal landscape4 ,i shall have to find out if this most typical shape has originated with them1 or has come from some foreign influence4 ,however that may be1 it made another classical note4 ,had ,ulysses in his wanderings left some companion here1 some such monument might have well marked the tomb of a ,greek4 ,there it was1 all covered with lichen2 and another newer one1 made also of coral mortar1 still white1 near trees1 and by former homes1 in this little shady 8agora40 ,as we passed into the path that seemed to run up the hill1 young men went by with wreaths on their heads1 draped to the waist1 like the statues of the gods of the family of ,jove2 their wide shoulders and strong1 smooth arms1 and long back-muscles or great pectorals shining like red bronze4 ,all this strength was smooth2 the muscles of the younger men softened and passed into one another as in the modelling of a ,greek statue4 ,as with the girls we had just left1 no rudeness of hair marred the ruddy surfaces1 recalling all the more the ideal statues4 ,occasionally the hair reddened or whitened1 and the drapery of the native bark cloth1 of a brown ochre colour1 not unlike the flesh1 recalled still more the look of a ,greek clay image with its colour and gilding broken by time4 ,never in any case was there a bit of colour that might rightly be called barbaric2 the patterns might be ,european1 but no one could have chosen them better1 for use with great surfaces of flesh4 ,if all this does not tell you that there was no nakedness--that we only had the nude before us--,i shall not have given you these details properly4 ,evidently all was according to order and custom2 the proportion of covering1 the manner of catching the drapery1 and the arrangement of folds according to some meaning well defined by ancient usage4 ,children played about in the open space2 they were then at a game of marbles2 when we returned1 this had turned to some kind of blind-man's-buff2 there was no roughness1 only a good deal of soft laughter2 one youngster1 draped to the chest like a ,greek orator1 too big for the children1 too young for the men1 leaned upon a long staff and looked on gravely1 exactly like the figures on the ,greek vases1 or the frieze of the ,parthenon4 ,we walked along into the forest1 in the silence of noonday1 but the abruptness and slipperiness of the path as it rose rapidly to walls of wet rock1 stopped our feet4 ,from the intricate tangle of green1 we saw the amethyst sea1 and the white line of sounding surf cutting through the sloping pillars of the cocoanuts1 that made a mall along the shore2 and over on the other side of the narrow harbour1 the great high green wall of the mountain1 warm in the sun1 and its fringe of cocoanut grove1 and the few huts hidden within it1 all softened below by the haze blown up from the breakers4 ,all made a picture1 not too large to be taken in at a glance2 the reality of the pictures of savage lands1 in our school books1 filled in with infinite details4 ,from dark interiors of huts1 as we returned1 came gentle greetings of 8alofa40 ,awoki1 our ,japanese servant1 had remained with our hosts1 had been fed with bread-fruit and cocoanut milk1 and was busy writing out1 under the direction of the black mate1 certain names and words of the language2 for the mate could be understood1 while the captain ,illustration had only one certain phrase1 8now and again0 with which he punctuated everything loudly1 so that ,i could barely understand him4 ,the mate had his own punctuation of frightful oaths and damnatory epithets1 evidently mere adornments of speech1 for he was most gentle1 a kindly and good-natured cannibal1 contrariwise to the surly captain2 so that ,i was glad that he had ventured up from the cutter4 ,the girls had taken kindly to the other brown skin1 my servant1 and were busy helping him make up his list of words1 whose sounds he wrote in ,japanese1 to my later confusion1 when he passed his dictionary to me4 7,yet curiously enough1 in this first half day1 we learned full a hundred words--almost all that ,i have retained47 ,so we sat down and rested2 the flies1 attracted by the bread-fruit1 and occasional mosquitoes hovered about the openings2 ants crawled about on us--my princess had occasionally on her feet a black bunch of flies1 which she brushed away slowly--evidently she did not feel them much--their skins are hard--8now and again10 as the captain might say1 a woman passed the openings of the hut1 bare to the waist1 holding a child against her hip4 ,soon one of the girls1 tired of cross-leggedness1 stretched her feet politely under a mat1 pulled up for the purpose 7for it is not polite to sit otherwise than cross-legged74 ,the older women slept on the ,samoan pillows at the further side1 closed in by palm curtains4 ,all but one--who had worked all the time1 her great brown back turned toward us--engaged in smoothing and finishing a piece of what we white men call tappa4 8,siapu0 ,i think they call it--the inner bark of the paper mulberry1 hammered out with a mallet1 which in so many of the islands has been long their cloth4 ,she never stirred from her work2 as long as the light held1 ,i saw before me this upright form1 strong as a man's1 smooth and round1 and the quiet motion of the arms in the shadow1 made deeper by the sunlight on our side4 ,later1 another shower made us shut down more curtains1 but we were safe and comfortable1 protected from sun and rain alike1 in this most comfortable and airy housing4 ,then ,sif began beating her thighs and moving her shoulders coquettishly to her humming of a tune1 and ,i thought that ,i recognized the siva1 the seated dance of the ,samoans1 about which ,i had been told in ,hawaii4 ,such a graceful creature could do nothing that was not a picture1 but there was a promise of something more1 so that we applauded and said lelei1 8beautiful10 with the hope of a full performance4 ,but the ,princess said nothing2 she smoked more and more1 as every one joined her1 so that ,i foresaw that our small supply of cigars and tobacco was doomed1 especially as other damsels entered1 and made more ravages2 girls more or less good looking1 mostly heavier1 one of them called 8,tuvale10 who knew bits and parcels of ,english such as pilisi du na iti mi1 pilisi esikusi mi1 8,please do not eat me10 8,please excuse me40 ,and one of the largest1 leaning affectionately against my shoulder1 absorbed my silk handkerchief1 and tied it around her neck--saying to me1 in her language1 8,look how pretty it is60 ,our matches and match-boxes had long ago disappeared--most little things had left my pockets1 but had been replaced4 ,in every way my fair and strong companions seemed inclined to dispute an apparent preference for ,uatea and ,sif4 ,good-natured girls all 7but one--the thief of handerchiefs--who seemed to me jealous7--and we were certainly beamed upon1 as ,i never expect to be again4 ,more rain outside brought on the evening1 as we took our last meal2 the 8chiefess0 and the captain1 who again appeared sullenly out of the dark1 eating after us2 the captain now1 with an apology to us1 appeared naked to the waist1 a big heavy mass of bronze1 covered below with a gorgeous drapery of purple1 and yellow1 and red4 ,we lay more and more at ease1 stretched out1 the girls prone1 and occasionally giving one of us an affectionate pat2 all but ,uatea who still preserved her usual reserve1 and even tried hard to substitute another ring for the one she had given me--as if her name on it was too much for a first acquaintance4 ,and occasionally in following her face1 the only one that seemed capable of complicated ideas1 ,i asked myself whether she was asking herself what equivalents her hospitality would receive3 for instinct told me that through her our gifts or our payments should be made2 even if it were all to go to others according to barbaric custom4 ,so seeing her rather laden with things1 and having had one experience of the excellence of a white silk handkerchief1 ,i offered her another1 and wrote her name in the corner1 to see her thank me in her usual condescending way1 and then toss it over to the old woman who appeared occasionally--to my mind1 her adviser and guardian1 for from time to time1 8now and again10 she crept up1 between us1 like a chaperon or duenna1 to see that all was proper4 ,then many of our girls disappeared with ,sif1 whom we missed at the moment and asked for over and over again4 ,a light was brought and set down upon the matting4 ,uatea slipped out between the hanging screens and the pillar behind me1 and slipped back again1 rid of her upper garment with a sort of poncho or strip of cloth with opening for head1 patterned in lozenges of black1 white1 and red1 that hung down her back and chest1 leaving arms and shoulders bare1 and the sides of her body1 so that as she bent1 the soft line that joins the breast to the underarm1 showed under the heavy folds4 ,then1 in came our missing pet1 ,sif1 with ,tuvle and two others1 into the penumbra of the lamp4 ,they were naked to the waist2 over their tucked-up drapery hung brilliant leaf-strips of light green1 streaked with red2 a few leaves girdled the ankle2 around ,sif's neck1 over her beautiful bosom1 hung a long1 narrow garland of leaves1 and on the others garlands of red fruit or long rows of beads interlaced3 every head was wreathed with green and red leaves1 and all and everything1 leaves1 brown flesh1 glistened with perfumed oil4 ,from the small focus of the lamp1 the light struck on the surface of the leaves as upon some delicate fairy tinsel1 and upon the forms of the girls as if upon red bronze waxed4 ,but no bronze has ever been movable1 and the perpetual ripple of light over every fold1 muscle1 and dimple was the most complete theatrical lighting ,i have ever seen4 ,even in the dark1 streaks of light lit up the forms and revealed every delicacy of motion4 ,so those lovers of form1 the ,greeks1 must have looked1 anointed and crowned with garlands1 and the so-called dance that we saw might not have been misplaced far back in some classical antiquity4 ,the girls sat in a row before us1 grave and collected1 their beautiful legs curled upon the lap as in ,east ,illustration3 ,,sif ,,dancing ,,the ,,sitting ,,siva ,indian sculptures2 and ,sif began a curious chant4 ,as all sang with her together1 they moved their arms in various ways to the cadence and in explanation of the song2 and with the arms1 now the waist and shoulders1 now the entire body1 even to the feet1 rising apparently upon the thighs to the time of the music4 ,indeed1 ,sif spoke with her whole tremulous body undulating to the fingers--all in a rhythm1 as the sea runs up and down on the beach1 and is never at rest1 but seems to obey one general line of curve4 ,so she1 and the others1 turned to one side and stretched out their arms1 or crossed them1 and passed them under the armpit and pressed each other's shoulders1 and lifted fingers in some sort of tale1 and made gestures evident of meaning1 or obscure1 and swayed and turned2 and1 most beautiful of all1 stretched out long arms upon the mats1 as if swimming upon their sides1 while all the time the slender waist swayed1 and the legs and thighs followed the rhythm through their muscles1 without being displaced4 ,i cannot describe it any better2 of what use is it to say that it was beautiful1 and extraordinary1 and that no motion of a western dancer but would seem stiff beside such an ownership of the body8 ,merely as motion1 it must have been beautiful1 for the fourth woman was old and not beautiful1 but she melted into the others1 so that one only saw1 as it were1 the lovely form of ,sif repeated by poorer reflections of her motion in lesser light4 ,meanwhile ,uatea sat to one side of them1 near me1 and in front1 one leg stretched out1 the other tucked under1 beating time with a stick1 disdainful of it all1 as poorly done1 perhaps incorrectly1 8lelei10 8beautiful10 ,i said--8leanga10 she replied1 with a curl of her lip1 hardly looking at the girls4 ,perhaps she should have led in person1 as the official maiden--and ,i still felt that something was not right4 ,the girls rose and came to sit beside us1 while ,uatea disappeared in the darkness1 behind the three masts crossed with curved beams1 that supported the centre of the roof4 ,these1 with the shining1 polished cocoanut bottles1 filled with water1 that hung from the beams1 and the rolls of mats and bark cloth which were placed upon them as upon shelves1 had served as a background or scenery to our theatre4 ,along all the edges of the big house1 in the darkness1 were other visitors1 and guests1 small children1 boys and girls1 neighbours1 and even the two gentle blackies1 from ,cannibal and ,head ,hunting isles1 with white rings in their noses1 that made our crew4 ,but ,i saw none of the splendid young men1 who1 crowned with garlands1 girdled with leaves like the ,fauns and ,sylvans of the ,greek play1 had startled me over and over again1 during the day1 with a great wonder that no one had told me of a rustic ,greece still alive somewhere1 and still to be looked at4 ,so that the old statues and frescoes were no conventionality--and the ,illustration3 ,,the ,,flute ,,player4 ,,samoa sailor1 the missionary1 and the beachcomber1 were witnesses of things that they did not see1 because they had not read4 ,and if one reads1 does he care to-day8 ,had ,i only known1 years ago4 ,even now1 when it is too late1 the memory of all that beauty which we call ,greece1 the one beauty which is to outlast all that is alive1 comes over me like a wave of mist1 softening and putting far away into fairyland all that ,i have been looking at4 ,from out of the darkness1 as if from out of the shade of antiquity1 ,uatea stepped out before us1 naked to the waist1 crowned with leafage1 garlands around her hips1 a long staff like a sceptre in her hand1 and danced some heroic dance1 against another girl1 smaller than she1 as her adversary2 it looked a mimicry of combat2 the tall form1 the commanding gestures1 the disdainful virginity of the village ,diana1 challenging her companion to battle2 something as beautiful and more heroic than the ,bacchanals that are enrolled on the ,greek vases4 ,the girl was in her true element and meaning1 more than she could have been in the previous siv dance2 only an occasional touching of the knees together detracted from the beauty of the movements4 ,i could scarcely notice the other dancer1 nor the third one1 an old woman 7who represented1 apparently1 a suppliant71 for fear of losing a parcel of a picture that ,i shall never see again1 certainly never with such freshness of impression4 ,and when ,uatea reappeared1 clad again1 and puffed at my pipe before passing it to me1 she much less disdainfully assured me that all her dancing was leanga 7bad74 ,and she softened a little1 and seemed distressed about our quarrel about her ring1 taking off all her rings and throwing them away to her guardian matron1 perhaps for fear of being reproved for giving too much for too little1 for we had given as yet but little--only cigars1 tobacco1 and trifles2 and ,i asked myself whether the dramatic artist was counting up her possible gains1 as others do4 ,meanwhile1 the other girls lay close to us1 in the confidence of good-nature2 all anxious to make the best impression1 a curious example of the wilful charming of woman--and ,sif talked and smiled1 and moved1 or rather floated1 in her place like a maiden siren flirting4 ,many confidences were exchanged without either side understanding one word said4 ,each girl wrote something in ,awoki's note-book1 or helped our making a dictionary4 ,sif even summing up figures to prove her possession of the three ,r's1 a confusing addition of accomplishments to the dancing and conventionalities we had seen4 ,but ,i am told that all read and write1 with no book but the ,bible4 ,then between the curtains of mats ,uatea disappeared contrary to what ,i supposed etiquette1 but1 of course1 ,i knew nothing4 ,the others bade us good-night1 not without begging one of us to share their hut1 and we slipped out into the dark1 while the mats were arranged for our rest4 ,the storm clouds still covered the sky--only a few stems of the cocoanut glistened1 and the white bar of the surf made a hard line in the shadow4 ,some vague1 light forms were those of sitters beneath the trees whispering1 or talking low1 for all through our day there had been no voices raised except our own1 or the surly growl of the captain--or the chant that had accompanied the dances2 all other talk had been soft and flowing1 with low voices1 almost inaudible to us when distant1 adding again to the peace and softening charm4 ,we lay down on the mats with our heads toward the centrepost2 a large mosquito bar of thin bark cloth1 big enough for a small room1 was let down upon us1 the light of the lamp shining through it1 and draped in my ,japanese kimono1 ,i fell asleep1 in spite of the few mosquitoes imprisoned with us4 ,no noise from the rest of the house had arisen1 all was still2 we were as much isolated as if we had been in a built-up room4 ,late or early1 ,i think ,i heard the snore of the captain1 but all is empty in my mind until ,i recollect feeling the morning light and saw some shadows pass4 ,as ,i stepped out1 ,i saw ,sif move out1 stretching her arms1 as she moved toward a little path4 ,then issued the captain1 with a formidable yawn1 and looked at the sky for presages of weather1 and took the same little path1 ,i suppose toward the bathing pool1 or spring1 or rivulet of fresh water1 that might be in the hollow4 ,and there came up to the house ,uatea1 the 8,chiefess10 looking just the same1 and appeared to understand that we were for a bath1 as she made the motions of washing her chest4 ,we went to the sea1 finding no good place for a bath--it was evidently far off--and ,i take it that they bathe in fresh water--the luxury of hot climates4 ,for they all seemed to be extremely clean and neat1 from the men whom ,i had first seen at sea1 to the girls with limbs rubbed with cocoanut-oil and smelling of the aromatic fruit 7the pandanus7 that their garlands were made of4 ,our bath was not a full success--we dared not go out into the surf that rolled turbid waves upon the deep1 black volcanic sand of the beach2 but the water was warm and soothing1 and as ,i began putting on my clothes1 a tall girl of the preceding night came up and sat down beside me on the rock1 with an evident seeking for an interview4 ,notwithstanding my unaccustomed embarrassment1 ,i managed to make out that she was uncertain and perplexed as to the legality of her capture of my handkerchief the night before1 and though ,i told her to keep it1 she was still doubtful4 ,uatea had had one2 was she to have the same as ,uatea8 ,at last she left me1 reassured--,i had no more interest--and ,i saw her go along the shore passing far off the better bathing ,illustration3 ,,uatea ,,dancing ,,the ,,sitting ,,siva spot of fresh water1 and then disappearing behind distant palms4 ,breakfast was ready when we reappeared2 after us ,uatea ate and drank our tea1 and wondered at our use of 8tea-balls40 ,the captain explained that there might be wind enough 8now and again10 and that any moment ought to see us off4 ,sif and ,tuvle gathered about ,adams2 ,i smoked my last cigar1 for all with our other tobacco were gone--while ,uatea asked coldly what ,i had done with the ring she gave me1 as it was no longer on my finger4 ,more and more she withdrew into herself1 more and more the 8,chiefess0 looked as if expecting or anxious or troubled1 as to whether an equivalent would be serious enough4 ,but we gave the largest sum that the captain dared to hint at--anything would have seemed cheap4 ,the night before ,i could understand the throwing of jewels2 of money1 of any reward to express thankful admiration4 ,the 8,chiefess0 extended a languid hand--her eyebrows rose1 a short 8f'tai0 dropped1 as if obligatory from her lips--7the proper form ,i knew already was 8faafe'tai07--she gave us her hand with a frigid 8alofa10 and with ,sif and ,tuvle lingering1 we walked to our boat4 ,long after we had set sail we could see them wave their drapery as good-bye4 ,far off1 along the beach1 from the hut of the tall girl-thief1 my own handkerchief was waved--but even with the glass ,i saw no more of ,uatea4 ,peace to thee1 ,o soul of the 8virgin of the village10 if ,i have made thee but a thrifty prima donna1 or like the ,king ,solomon of ,djami1 the ,persian poet1 caring only for realities that pay--it is the part of those born to be rulers4 ,and now we had pulled out of the breakers1 through the narrowest of openings1 and were on board the little schooner2 the great blue sapphire waves lifted us and sank us1 and came up against the blue horizon1 or against the tall green cliffs2 and once more we saw1 in the hollow of the sea1 or lifted against the sky1 the native boat pushed on by rhythmic paddles1 making a red line of naked men against the blue of the sea or the blue of the sky4 ,we have been four hours and a half beating out of this little cove1 and have just rounded the isolated rock of the cape1 of which ,i send you a sketch4 ,if ,i could only send you the colour6--blue and green--a little red and black in the rocks--the white and violet haze of the surf2 all as if elementary1 but in a tone that no painter has yet attempted1 and that no painter that ,i know of would be sure of2 the blue and green that belongs to the classics2 that is painted in lines of ,homer2 that ,titian guessed at1 once1 under a darker sky2 and far off the long sway and cadence of the surf like the movement of ancient verse--the music of the ,odyssey4 ,we are off some little village on the shore2 the boat has gone to get other passengers1 while ,i try to finish this account of our first day on land in the ,south ,seas1 and to make it live for you by long accumulation of detail4 ,if1 through it all1 you can gather my impression1 can see something of an old beauty1 always known1 in these new pictures1 you will understand why the ,greek ,homer is in my mind2 all ,greece1 the poetry of form and colour that comes from her1 as well as her habits2 just as the ,samoan youngster who rose shining from the sea to meet us1 all brown and red1 with a red hibiscus fastened in his hair by a grass knot as beautiful as any carved ornament1 was the ,bacchus of ,tintoretto's picture1 making offering to ,ariadne4 ,the good people of the steamer may not have seen it1 nor the big white ,english girl who bought some trifle from him--but it is all here for me--and there will soon come a day when even for those who care1 it will be no more2 when nowhere on earth or at sea will there be any living proof that ,greek art is not all the invention of the poet--the mere refuge of the artist in his disdain of the ugly in life4 ,what ,i have just seen is already to me almost a dream4 ,so ,i turn to my ,japanese1 ,awoki1 and ask him--8,it was like the studio1 ,awoki1 was it not8 but all fine2 no need of posing80 ,and ,awoki says 8,yes10 whether he understands me or not1 and ,i think of you and of the enclosed studio life that tries to make a little momentary visitation of this reality4 ,the fitness and close relation of all ,i have seen makes a something like what we strive to get through art1 and my mind turns toward the old question1 8,how does what we call art begin80 ,these people make little2 the house1 the elementary patches upon their bark cloth1 the choice of a fine form for tombs1 is all the art that is exterior of themselves and of their movements1 into which last they have put the feeling for completeness and relation1 that makes the love of art4 ,is it necessary for going further that some one should be born1 to whom1 gradually1 an unwillingness to assume the responsibility of action1 which the ruler and the priest take willingly1 should grow into a dislike of the injustice of power1 and a distrust of the truthfulness of creeds1 so that he must make a world for himself1 unstained and free from guilt or guile8 ,i have begun to imagine for myself some such soul1 born in early communities1 who might have lived long ago anywhere and have been the hero of some such primitive obscure conflict2 but ,i can see tossing on blue waves1 the boat that brings from the shore our new companions1 ,lieutenant ,parker and ,consul-,general ,sewall1 who have been on a visit to the harbour of ,pango ,pango--and in a few minutes they and their white coats will be aboard4 ,you will by this time wish to know how we are living4 ,we are settled definitely1 for headquarters1 at ,vaiala1 a little way from ,apia1 from which a little river separates our part of the land4 ,further on1 another small river closes out the territory1 and separates us from ,apia4 ,the small river that separates us from the beginnings of the village capital1 ,apia1 is spanned by a little bridge--little because consisting of a few planks1 and a handrail to one side1 but otherwise a very long gangway4 ,this ,i believe is kept in repair by the municipality of ,apia1 and is probably the cause of much discussion in the way of spending money4 ,occasionally it is washed away1 and then we swim our horses across1 to the discomfort of my best yellow boots1 which ,i feel are a distinctive mark in my visits to people in ,apia4 ,at times the municipality provides a ferry-boat4 ,this so far has been manned by one of those convicts who are puzzles in ,south ,sea economics4 ,he had been taken away from some other chores of supposed hard work4 ,after the first day of ferrying1 which was productive of various small trips1 this criminal had fallen back on the customs of his country1 and on that essential communism which is the basis of their actions and of much of their thinking4 ,he had a hut erected for him1 so as to rest in the shade1 and there he spent most of his time consuming bananas or accidental gifts of food1 and courted and caressed by village maidens1 who adorned him with flowers and anointed him with cocoanut oil4 ,meanwhile the smaller and less important members of his family did the work of ferrying in the sun4 ,it was all the same1 he was vicariously being punished4 ,this is the keynote of all ,i shall ever tell you here4 ,there is the tendency to let not only property remain undivided1 but also injury or gain4 ,a little anecdote told me by a clergyman1 who had it from a friend in ,fiji1 where things are still more so1 gives this intellectual position4 ,the ,fiji clergyman had been shocked at a horror perpetrated by some of his parishioners4 ,the dog of some person in a neighbouring village had been killed2 some of the aggrieved had sallied forth1 and meeting some person who belonged to the village guilty of holding the dog murderer1 had thereupon incontinently killed him4 ,an 8old hand10 that is to say1 a white man conversant with ,south ,sea habits1 explained to the clergyman the naturalness of the deed4 ,he said--forgive the vernacular--8,see here2 if ,jim and me gets into a fight1 and ,jim plunks me in the head1 ,i don't wait till ,i can get in a blow at ,jim's head3 ,i hit him where ,i can40 ,one community had lost a dog and the other had lost a man4 ,this is a dreadful example of the idea1 and ,i almost regret introducing it into my description of this idyllic passage of my life4 ,but we are on the road to ,apia1 which1 like all white men's places in such countries1 has a taint of brutality remaining from the day of the beachcomber4 ,it is an orderly little place strung along what might be called a street or two1 the main one of which is on the beach1 and goes by that name4 ,there are stores1 a few hotels and drinking places1 warehouses and residences of the consuls1 and further on native residences1 etc4 ,there are churches too1 and a ,catholic cathedral of somewhat imposing dimensions2 but the churches are those of an ugly village1 and no longer have that natural look of the church by our own village of ,vaiala1 for instance1 which has really a character not contradictory to its surroundings4 ,further back and right and left all is ,samoan and native4 ,we are just by the shore1 here fringed with trees and palms1 and only some six feet above the inland sea of the reef that spreads right and left before us4 ,in the few great storms that have come upon us in the night1 it was not difficult to imagine the beating of the rain against the door of our sleeping house to be the first splashing of some great waves passing over with the roar of the surf outside4 ,from under the shadows of trees1 ,i see canoes pass close to the shore1 visible at intervals between the trees that border it2 they seem1 like all that happens about us1 part of a theatre scene3 red bodies glisten in white or coloured drapery1 adorned by flowers and leafage2 and songs are carried along with the stroke of the paddles1 as in an ideal opera4 ,blue sea outside2 green inside4 ,the little village stretches along a very short distance1 apparently not made of more than a couple of dozen of huts or ,samoan houses1 with a double village green1 here and there planted with trees and broken into and backed on the shore side by plantations of bananas4 ,further back the mysterious 8bush10 into which ,i have not yet wandered4 ,just outside1 near the shore1 and with a little garden1 the ,consul has built a new and commodious southern house1 with enormous verandas1 dropped like a piece of ,europe among the native forms2 there we breakfast and dine2 while in the village a few yards off we have borrowed a large1 comfortable hut1#b in which we spend the day1 receiving visitors1 writing1 or painting1#c and at night we occupy a little building of our own ,european kind1 with just place for our two rooms and beds4 ,it is next to ,tofae1 the chief's hut2 so that we are both physically and morally under ,tofae's protection4 ,this we insist upon2 we are no strangers gadding about1 we are chiefs on a visit1 and we appeal to the care of our fellows responsible for us4 ,so that doors and trunks and boxes are all open2 every one is free to inspect and responsible to the ,illustration3 ,,boy ,,in ,,canoe ,,passing ,,in ,,front ,,of ,,our ,,house4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa chief4 ,even very lately1 when the criminal--the prisoner condemned for stealing the consular flag halyards--who is imprisoned by being detained within the half mile of the village1 and who is under ,tofae's wardship--even when this confirmed bad man is found looking through all my property1 from sketch-books to night pajamas1 ,i feel quite safe that nothing will be missed through him4 ,only two silk handerchiefs have disappeared since ,i have been on the island1 and ,i can't be sure whether they were lost here or in some of our long trips by sea and land4 ,but ,tofae takes the fact to heart1 and will1 ,i know1 make me some present many times more valuable1 to wipe out this possible blot upon the escutcheon4 ,at the earliest dawn there is motion in the village that ,i do not hear4 ,the soft grass1 cleanly trimmed1 which covers all the village space1 brings no echo from bare feet4 ,but from the very first morning on the small verandah1 no bigger than a large table1 ,i hear a patter of feet that wakens me4 ,if ,i look out1 one or more of the girls of the village1 our nearest neighbours1 is seated there in a corner1 ready to bid good morning1 and looking occasionally into the open window1 to see if ,i am still abed6 ,sometimes their shadows1 as they pass1 break the half light which keeps me in a doze4 ,when ,i rise ,i have to get accustomed to the mild curiosity that inquires after my mode of dressing4 ,still1 as days go on1 ,i become less the fashion1 and can go out to my bath1 in my ,japanese gown1 without stepping over a cterie of gentle maidens4 ,if ,i get up with the dawn1 that slowly lights up the great spaces above the trees1 ,i can see first some figures pushing back the mats that form the only walls of the surrounding huts1 stretching their arms1 then perhaps1 in their simplest wraps1 fading away in the uncertain light6 ,they are going to the obligatory bath2 not to the salt water in front of us1 which they do not look upon as cleansing1 but to pools back in the bush1 or the little river further off4 ,with the first half-sleepy motion begins the weeding around the huts1 a perpetual task carried on at all odd times4 ,for among these savages1 so far as they are not spoiled by the ,european1 the lawn and greenery about the village are tended with extreme care4 ,many a time1 in places that are far away and more strictly barbarous1 ,i have been reminded of the neatest ,newport lawns4 ,this is one of the unexpected charms1 one of the many things that give everything a look difficult to explain1 a look of elegance in the wildness4 ,but we must remember that these good people have always been here1 that from immemorial time they have tended what seems to us accidental nature2 culture and care and the tropical wild growths are constantly interchanged4 ,that is the ,south ,sea note4 ,later on ,i see some of the men return from their short hour's work at their wet patches of the taro plant1 which1 with the bread-fruit1 represents the staples of bread and cereals both4 ,in this kindly nature1 such culture is no more than a gentle exercise4 ,i see even the great ,mataafa1 the rival of the ,king ,malietoa1 and the greatest personage of all islands1 returning from his daily task like any commoner1 often stripped to the waist1 wearing nothing but the wrap along the loins and legs1 which they call the lava-lava4 ,after our morning coffee1 made of the island bean whenever we are fortunate enough to get it1 for we find it better than any brought from ,java1 we adjourn with the first heat of the early morning to our big ,samoan hut4 ,this is next to ,mataafa's1 in the centre of the village4 ,by this time most of our neighbours have begun to rest1 and will keep steadily quiet for a large part of the day2 unless they visit1 or unless some special duty calls4 ,if we are very early1 we may still find in our ,samoan hut our pretty friend ,fangalo1 who lives with our neighbours nearer ,apia1 and whose simple task it is to place flowers about the tables upon which we write or paint1 or upon the shelf that connects the great centre posts of the hut1 where hang the cocoanut water bottles1 and are placed the rolls of native cloth1 or extra mats for softer resting4 ,tal1 which means bath1 the gentle sister of our landlord1 if ,i can so call him1 has already seen that everything is in order1 and all the mats that cover the pebble floor are properly disposed4 ,tal wishes good morning1 and leaves fruit as presents and hangs the great branches of yellow or green bananas4 ,she stays but little1 even when pressed1 though she is curious as to why we write so much and what we mean in general4 ,she does not quite approve of us2 we ask strange questions3 we are not preachers--we are seen writing on ,sundays3 we are not looking for wives4 ,we may be aitu--spirits in disguise4 ,tal's sweet face is always sad--exceptionally so here where good nature marks most young faces4 ,in that she is not ,samoan nor properly ,polynesian4 ,but she has gone through much4 ,she was the ,samoan wife of the former ,british consul1 ,churchward1 who left her with her little boy when he was promoted to other appointments4 ,not that she would have gone with him1 ,i think3 the ,polynesian rarely understands living anywhere else than in his islands--his own island makes the world4 ,here ,tal sits on some rock-edge by the water1 and looks out to the far-off sea4 ,i see her so almost every evening4 ,according to true ,polynesian habits1 the little child has been adopted by our chief1 ,tofae1 who is devoted to him and allows him great liberties4 ,so that ,tal has no practical trouble about little ,george1 who lives ,samoan way1 and1 a son of chiefs by birth and adoption1 bullies the less important babies4 ,the other girls1 who come in often to see us1 and who are occasionally encouraged by little amenities and presents1 are not at all sad4 ,otaota1 the daughter of the preacher1 who is himself of sacred descent1 if ,i may so explain it1 is not even over-bashful1 to the great scandal of ,tal1 who is nothing if not ,sunday school4 ,she is willing to pose for her portrait without her upper wraps1 though she is no longer the exquisite brown statue that she must have been two years ago4 ,but ,otaota is a young woman of the world1 and who knows8--perhaps these strangers may be serious in their attentions4 ,important people1 of course1 come in to see us1 but more frequently in the afternoon4 ,of chiefs there are many about us1 and ,patu1 ,tofae's brother1 is a great chief and has been a great warrior2 so that ,i am not surprised at his curious resemblance to ,general ,sherman4 ,from all these good people my companion1 and ,i also in a small way1 obtain slowly1 by driblets1 the explanation of what they really are4 ,slowly they unfold the extraordinary differences which make their ways always misfit ours6 ,their social words have really no equivalent in ours2 their ideas remain a puzzle to whomsoever insists upon our having a common basis to start from4 ,i have forgotten to describe what the ,samoan hut1 called the ,samoan house1 is like4 ,ours is a handsome one1 not exactly the finest1 but still very well built4 ,its plan is a long oval4 ,its length is not far from fifty feet2 its greatest height something like twenty4 ,it is set upon a foundation of stones1 and its flooring of fine pebbles is only raised a few inches above the ground1 which slopes in all directions from it4 ,it is made of a series of high posts placed at considerable distances from each other1 in the shape of an ellipse4 ,they are connected at the top by a series of double beams1 which receive great rafters running from every set of posts to the peaked centre4 ,these rafters are connected by other great rafters and tie beams4 ,at the centre they are supported by two or more great pillars1 which at intervals are braced together4 ,beside these pillars1 in the direction of each end of the house1 are two holes in the ground2 made to receive the cocoanut fire used for lighting1 or for the slight warmth that is occasionally needed4 ,walls there are none in the true ,samoan house4 ,mats of the cocoanut leaf hang from the cross-beams1 between the posts1 to the floor1 or rather to the edge of large stones that make a sort of rim to the building1 and serve to steady the posts and keep off the wash of the rain4 ,in certain very elegant buildings some of these openings1 instead of being filled with these movable mats that are pulled up or down for protection from light or rain1 are enclosed by a fine wattling4 ,it is a manner of limiting the numbers of entrances1 which otherwise1 you see1 would be a little everywhere4 ,in such a residence as that of ,mataafa1 a great man1 a sovereign prince and sacred personage1 no one would think of entering otherwise than at some defined place4 ,for the furniture of our residence and that of other people1 mats of different degrees of fineness are spread upon the small fine pebbles that make the floor4 ,if we want great elegance and great comfort1 we put on more and finer mats4 ,some of the furniture lies about2 some of it consists in the ,samoan pillow1 a long bamboo1 supported at the ends by four little sticks4 ,there are also boxes in which clothes are put away4 ,there are large rolls of native cloth called tappa4 ,some of it is made up into curtains to be used as screens and partitions4 ,sometimes1 but not in our hut1 these curtains are made into indoor tents for keeping off the mosquitoes1 and1 otherwise1 increasing privacy4 ,all these things are stowed away among the rafters1 or upon the sticks curved like tusks1 which project beyond the centre posts and serve to brace them4 ,for our ,european habits we have two tables and three chairs4 ,most of the day when we are idle we sit on the mats with our guests4 ,but working is better done at the accustomed table4 ,toward noontime we hear violent and savage shouts1 and see through the square opening of the lifted mats three or four brown savages1 with big girdles of green leaves and crowns of verdure1 come running and dancing to us from ,mataafa's house1 which is only a few yards away4 ,they carry a big wooden bowl1 partly filled with crushed cocoanut and arrowroot1 and some big bread-fruits4 ,they sit down on the edge of our outside stones1 and proceed to break the bread-fruit1 steaming hot1 with great force and violence1 holding it by the stem1 pounding it and mashing it into the cocoanut milk4 ,this quivering pudding1 palusami1 is then neatly dropped upon banana leaves1 made into little packages1 and tendered to us with the respects of ,mataafa4 ,sometimes we eat1 sometimes we distribute to more ,samoan-minded people2 but for the first few times it is very nice4 ,i like it better than the raw fish and salt water1 which is pleasant also occasionally1 though apparently more suited to the habits of that ancestral totem1 the shark4 ,but tastes and habits differ1 and the ,samoan language1 extraordinarily rich in words that describe physical sensations1 has a special word for that state of weakness and languor wherein such a dish as raw fish is all that the invalid can tolerate4 ,mataafa sometimes calls at this hour1 sometimes a little earlier1 on his return from church1 if it be a holy day3 for ,mataafa is very strict in religious duty4 ,but usually he has chosen the afternoon4 ,he speaks no ,english1 and we have varying interpreters2 but still1 owing in part to his kindness and courtesy1 we have learned a great deal from him4 ,he is not so easily questioned as an inferior might be4 ,when ,tofae's tall daughter is called in hurriedly to help out1 because we have not had sufficient warning 7,tofae's daughter1 who fears no man1 whose neck carries her head as a column does a capital71 she interprets with extreme respect and reticence1 as it were1 8by your leave10 bending her head1 looking only sidewise at the great chief1 holding her breath when she speaks to him1 and almost whispering4 ,every phrase is prefaced with 8,the ,king says10 all of which gives us the measure of proper respect1 but does not hasten the conversation4 ,mataafa is not interested in facts as mere curiosities4 ,i doubt if he would approve of my interest in most things1 if he could guess it4 ,information with regard to the world abroad he cares for only as it affects ,samoa--that is to say1 in conversation with us4 ,he would like to know that we have some messages of advantage to his country4 ,it has taken a long time to make him sympathize with our questionings about ,samoan ways and manners and their origins1 which involve1 of course1 history and social law4 ,and yet if he could appreciate it1 in that way we get at an understanding of what he is1 and of the difficulties that beset him6 ,with such talk1 much desultoriness1 sketching1 writing1 smoking1 and eating of bananas1 a length of which hangs from a beam above1 the heat of the afternoon passes away4 ,the shadows begin to fall across the malae or village green4 ,the villagers come out and wander about socially1 attend to little matters1 or sit here and there in favourite corners4 ,weeding goes on with the more orderly housewives1 who keep an eye meanwhile upon the children wandering about4 ,a good many domestic interests receive attention4 ,sometimes1 under the bananas and orange trees behind my house1 ,i see hair-dressing1 a serious and difficult operation4 ,the pleasure of the ,samoans in turning their beautiful black hair to brown or yellow or auburn1 necessitates a peculiar process which is also extremely curious to the eye4 ,for this they use coral lime1 plastered upon the hair and remaining there a couple of days or more2 so that they go about with white hair1 like people of the last century4 ,tofae's daughter is charming1 with her hair all of this silver-grey and big crimson flowers in it4 ,it sets out a certain nobility of feature1 and is1 like powder1 aristocratic in its very nature4 ,the rather heavy faces become either stronger or more refined4 ,each young man has some female who especially understands just how to fashion his hair into certain curls and twists1 which are retained during a week or so2 for the operation answers all the purposes of curling besides1 and of cleaning absolutely4 ,when this application is brushed away the curls will remain2 but meanwhile1 as he sits with his head bent way down and the lady lathering it1 he has that woebegone1 submissive look that we see in the barber shop4 ,our good people are passionately fond of adorning their persons with flowers and leafage3 flowers about the waist1 flowers about the neck1 flowers and leaves in the hair4 ,every little while ,i see rearrangements which make1 as it were1 a form of conversation4 ,the steps of my house offer a convenient seat for just the proper number of persons4 ,so that as soon as the shade comes down1 some girl is seated there with some youngster1 and they rearrange each other's flowers4 ,a flower behind the ear means a 8going of courting0 or readiness that way4 ,in little separate houses the cooking for the evening meal begins4 ,this separation of the household work from the residence or living apartments is a little elegance and refinement which does a great deal to keep up the charm and holiday look of life about us4 ,when1 however1 great meals are to be prepared1 ,i hear considerable noise on the outskirts of the village1 the chasing of hens1 whose eggs1 by the by1 are1 as you may imagine1 difficult to obtain1 as the hens have the surrounding tropical scenery of the bush to lay in4 ,owing to the scurry after the hens1 the only place that seemed safe to them was my apartment2 and my open trunks were very good places to look into for possible eggs4 ,the cooking of any importance1 as you probably know1 is a method of baking in the earth3 stones heated by fire1 in a trench upon which leaves are placed1 and then the food1 wrapped in more leaves1 is placed upon them and covered up with twigs1 branches and earth4 ,after a skilfully prolonged residence in the earth1 the mound is opened1 and the food is found cooked4 ,with fish the results are certainly excellent2 but vegetables and meats are often a little raw4 ,it seems marvellous that the brown ,polynesian1 apparently a member of the great 8,aryan0 race1 intelligent1 often adventurous1 has never been willing1 when his race was pure1 to invent such a thing as a pot to hold hot water1 even when clay was all about him4 ,he knew that in far-off islands1 from which occasionally came invaders or returning adventurers1 there was such a thing as pottery2 yet he preferred1 as he does to-day1 to import a few specimens1 rather than spend a few moments in starting this1 to us1 necessary beginning of what ,illustration3 ,,mataafa',s ,,cook ,,house4 ,,from ,,our ,,hut ,,at ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa scientific men call the passage from savagery to barbaric life4 ,you will remember that with us one of the present definitions of the savage is that he does not make pottery1 nor know the bow and arrow4 ,well3 the higher ,polynesian never used pottery1 and used the bow and arrow1 one of the most deadly of weapons1 only to shoot for amusement at the forest rat4 ,this violation of certain rules of the game of science is one of the most amusing fragments of contradiction that one meets4 ,when we came to other islands1 where there is a mixture of what we deem a lower race--the ,papuan1 negro or black1 we find pottery1 the use of the bow1 intelligent fortification in war4 ,and the beginnings of decorative art are shown by a keener sense of colour and contrast of form4 ,the high ,polynesian1 who invariably invaded and defeated the mixed race superior to him in these important details1 and brought back the 8stuff0 has lived with a sort of classic severity4 ,precedent is everything2 new patterns of ornament come in most slowly1 and there is an apparent indifference to the picturesque4 ,but owing to this conservation such a ,botian set of islands as ,samoa gives to the artist--the man who remembers the beauty of classical representations1 the only fit recall of what he has seen in the ,greek sculpture1 the ,pompeiian fresco and the vases of antiquity4 ,the rather countrified good taste of these people leads them to simple methods of dress and adornment1 and to keeping the same unchangeable except by small variations4 ,there is nothing nearer to the drapery of the ,greek statue than the ,samoan wrap of cloth or of tappa1 which is merely a long rectangle wrapped about the body1 either as high as the chest1 like the cloak of the ,greek orator1 or merely around the waist and thighs1 always carefully arranged in special sets of folds which designate both the sex and the social position of the wearer2 with this the wreaths and flower and leaf girdles and the anointed body1 which belong to our vague conception of the ,greek and ,roman past4 ,there is little more for war time2 a great barbarous head-dress of hair1 and occasionally some neck ornament of wild beasts' teeth4 ,in draperies such as ,i have described1 in the shady afternoon1 the chiefs sit about the lawn of the village the malae or green in places which ,i suppose are reserved to them by habit4 ,they sit far apart2 one of the ,samoan characteristics being the habit and the skill of conversing distinctly without raising the voice1 and of so speaking as to be heard far off4 ,the hereditary orators1 the tulafales1 who made speeches to us in our wanderings1 at the receptions given to us by the villagers1 invariably chose to speak at great distances4 ,a couple of hundred feet in the open air seemed to them a fair average4 ,their voices were never raised above a certain modulation4 ,in fact one imagined that the next word would not be heard4 ,but a peculiar inflection for each sentence wherein the most important points are placed at the end1 seemed to force the sound upwards as the phrase dragged on4 ,seumanu our ,apia chief who acted as our tulafale1 when we travelled1 liked to repeat 8sotto voce0 what the other tulafale was sure to say4 ,our chiefs often drank their kava in these afternoon conversations4 ,sometimes1 but very rarely1 it was made by the girls4 ,usually any young men of the village1 of refined dress and manners1 were called upon to serve4 ,i have a vague recollection--though ,i may have heard it of some other island1 and may be confusing facts--that the ancient custom allowed any man who wished his kava made to call upon the first young woman who passed1 no matter how high her rank might be2 this of course to be at his peril1 like all society privileges4 ,but however it may be1 almost invariably our own kava1 that is to say the kava to which we were treated1 was made by the women4 ,you will remember that this was one of the very first of ,south ,sea habits that we came across on our very first day1 in that other island of ,tutuila4 ,kava1 more properly ava1 is the universal drink of all ,polynesia4 ,abolished by the missionary in many places1 it still persists here4 ,kava is a drink made by adding water to the crushed and pressed root of a plant of the pepper family1 the ,piper ,methysticum1 which has a narcotic power4 ,here in this nest of civilization the root is grated upon an ordinary tin grater1 before being put in the large1 four-legged wooden bowl1 from which it is to be ladled in cocoanut cups1 after water has been properly added1 and with a strainer of bark fibres1 the filaments and splinters have been removed4 ,but in certain far-away places1 we have had the pleasure of drinking it in the ancient and orthodox way preferred by all epicures4 ,according to this more aboriginal method1 the kava root was chewed to a mass of woody pulp1 instead of being grated4 ,young ladies of great personal delicacy were chosen for this purpose2 but1 there must have been many occasions when one had not time to be fastidious4 ,i cannot say that ,i have noticed any advantage in the older form1 and ,i am glad that all about us it seems to be forgotten4 ,the entire preparation and serving of the drink makes a ceremonial form2 most absolute in detail and of hereditary and ancestral accuracy4#d ,it belongs to all receptions1 and is the manner of showing the distinctions of rank and precedence4 ,the gestures of the girls when they move their hands around in the water of the bowl1 so as to extract the essence of the root1 are regulated by long established custom1 and are beautiful as the movements of a dance4 ,the handing of the strainer to another attendant1 and her swinging it out to cleanse it1 make another series of most ravishing pictures4 ,finally the third attendant sweeps an arm down with an empty bowl1 and1 curving the wrist inward1 brings it full to the most honoured guest1 and to the others in turn4 ,with each handing the name of the guest is announced4 ,mataafa sometimes gives us kava1 and occasionally has done us the honour to come and drink it in our own hut4 ,in that case he has his own bowl1 a most intimate and personal property1 from which no one else must drink2 and with all courtesy he apologizes to us for this necessity of position4 ,for as he explains guardedly he is in some sense sacred--having been a form of the divine4 ,and he is the most religious of men in our meanings4 ,in one princely place that we visited1 in ,savii1 we found a lady who occupied by ancestry the position of 8kava divider02 that is to say that it was her duty and privilege to determine the sequence in presenting the cup according to dignity4 ,and she appeared without warning and claimed the right4 ,from this circle of the chiefs drinking kava on the green1 even the children know enough to keep away4 ,even the young man who hands the cups is careful in his walk not to appear to turn his back to any one of the chiefs4 ,respect for the chief is the basis of everything4 ,it is probably the foundation of their extreme courtesy1 only broken by natural exuberance1 impatience1 or simplicity4 ,the chief was sacred1 even in war4 ,it was a terrible thing for a commoner of the enemy to kill him4 ,in legends of ,tahiti there are tales of how men deliberated whether they were of high enough birth to take the life of a vanquished chieftain4 ,the very language indicates this division between class of the chief and everything else outside4 ,for the chief and everything relating to him there is a special language4 ,the chief's head1 the chief's body and all its parts1 the chief's food1 all that he does1 his feelings1 his possessions1 his dog1 his wife and her actions1 even when she breaks the ,seventh ,commandment1 have special names4 ,in many instances the common name of a thing is changed for another when that thing is spoken of in his presence4 ,in some cases the particular grade of his rank is indicated by the word used2 so that you speak of a tulafale's eating as tausami2 of a chief's eating as taumafa2 of such a chief as ,mataafa's eating as taute4 ,but it would not be polite of a chief to use these words with reference to himself4 ,when passers-by draw toward the end of our village and reach the highway in front of ,mataafa's hut1 they keep to the further side of the path1 leaving as large a space as it is possible to make1 out of respect for the privileges of the chief of chiefs4 ,on all the fringes of the village1 however1 the children play quiet games4 ,our spaces are too restricted for the young men to have their games2 but further down they collect at times to play1 by throwing a stick so as to make it touch the ground and skim along to the goal4 ,so with us there is very little4 ,occasionally some of the boys gallop wildly up and down the beach2 but there are very few horses in this immediate neighbourhood at which we are not displeased1 however beautiful the sight may be1 because they ride the horses too young1 and push them beyond their strength4 ,as the evening comes on the sun goes down rapidly1 and the afterglow1 the most beautiful moment of the ,south ,sea day1 begins its long continuance4 ,the girls gather together or sit with the young men1 either on the grass or on little raised benches under trees1 or very late again on still smaller benches1 holding at the most two people1 which they ingeniously fit between the divergent stems of the cocoanuts4 ,this half siesta1 half conversazione1 is carried on as long as there is light1 and if there be moonlight1 through any number of hours that may escape the darkness disliked by the ,polynesian4 ,our little friend ,tal leaves her hut and sits far apart in her accustomed place1 all alone1 immovable1 looking toward the sea1 thinking perhaps2 but how do ,i know8 ,some of the little children1 the little girls especially1 repeat in a small way the native songs and the native dance the siva4 ,sometimes a bigger girl sketches out some steps for them2 but we are extremely proper in our village1 and the siva1 of which the ,samoan is passionately fond1 is not looked upon with favour by the missionary or the brown members of the church4 ,however1 we succeed now and then in getting girls and young men from the neighbourhood1 or passing villagers and travellers1 to favour us with this entertainment4 ,the siva dances about which ,i wrote you at length1 upon the day of my arrival1 are yet to us always novel4 ,by and by ,i suppose that they will be1 like everything else1 accepted by us as an ordinary form of social dissipation4 ,but it is certainly worth coming all this way1 even to see one of them4 ,the beautiful rhythm of song and movement1 the accuracy of time kept1 the evidently absorbing delight of the performers1 who become more and more insatiate1 until one wonders that they are not exhausted by such gymnastics1 the pictorial disposition of the scene1 usually at night or in dark places1 the dancers dressed in flowers and leaves in contrasts and harmonies of colour that are nature's own1 with bodies and limbs glistening with oil1 the spectators all absorbed1 and as ,robinson ,crusoeish as the spectacle itself--all these things are the siva4 ,if ,i do not refrain and cut short at once1 ,i shall become entangled in trying to give you word pictures that are utterly inadequate4 ,i feel1 too1 that the drawings and paintings ,i have made are so stupid from their freezing into attitudes the beauties that are made of sequence4 ,these beauties do not touch the missionary4 ,the invariable objection to amusement1 to dissipation1 to that weakening of purpose which our indulgences bring1 make this natural of course1 and we can understand it4 ,but these kindly natives need1 ,i think1 every possible excuse for innocent occupation4 ,there is so little for them to do to-day1 and we feel that by lending our countenance to the siva we are rescuing both the native and the missionary from a false position4 ,the condemnation of the dance had gone from the white missionary to his brown brother1 the local ,polynesian clergyman or deacon2 and when we arrived we learned that even our excellent ,sunday-school1 church-keeping friend1 ,faatulia1 the wife of the chief ,seumanu1 himself also a most excellent and worthy member of the church1 had been excommunicated for having danced a ,european cotillion at the ,fourth of ,july ball given by our ,american ,consul4 ,the revulsion is beginning1 and we are glad to help in forwarding it4 ,we could scarcely have sivas of our own--that is to say that our village could not give them properly4 ,they should be under the direction of the right social leader1 and we have no taupo4 ,the taupo is a young woman elected by the village for the purpose of directing all social amenities in which women can take part4 ,it is for her to receive the guests1 to know who they are and what courtesies should be extended to them2 to provide for their food and lodging4 ,if they are great people like ourselves1 for their being attended1 for their having all small comforts of bath and soft mats and tappa1 for their being talked to and sung to and danced to4 ,she is invariably chosen of good descent1 and she is beautiful if fate allows it1 but she must be a lady above all4 ,she must also be a virgin1 and be continually protected1 escorted1 watched1 investigated1 by one or many duennas1 who never for a single instant lose sight of her4 ,her position in that way is a trying one4 ,contrary to all feminine instincts1 she is rarely allowed to have her own way in the adornment of her person4 ,her expert attendants insist upon having a voice in dressing her on all show occasions2 notwithstanding1 it seemed to me that ,i recognized in each individual taupo a something that had escaped the levelling influence of so much interest taken in her attire4 ,remember that she dances in front of the warriors in battle4 ,illustration3 ,,samoan ,,courtship4 ,,faase1 ,,the ,,taupo ,,or ,,official ,,virgin ,,and ,,her ,,duenna ,,wait ,,modestly ,,for ,,the ,,approach ,,of ,a ,,young ,,chief ,when the time comes1 the village that has chosen her1 also chooses her husband1 and makes her gifts1 as a dowry4 ,sometimes1 and this is one of the terrors of the situation1 the village is very hard to please1 and rejects offers which the taupo might perhaps have accepted if a less important and freer agent4 ,she can always escape by bolting1 and marry as she pleases1 thereby forfeiting her position and the respect of well-thinking people4 ,a match not well thought of by society is as much deplored here as in our very best circles4 ,marriage1 apparently lightly entered into1 is a very serious matter4 ,rank1 position1 is only transmitted by blood2 and a msalliance in ,samoa entails consequences still more disastrous than in the court life of ,germany4 ,perhaps my ,south ,sea ,islander is not sentimental4 ,he is simple and natural1 but he looks at everything in a practical way1 and his ideas1 having always been the same1 enable him to keep this natural simplicity without any protest in favour of that freedom that brings on love tragedies4 ,as the day draws to its last close in the fairy colouring of the long afterglow1 people come back to their evening meal--a regular hour and moment1 here where divisions of time seem so uncared for that no older man or woman could accurately know their age2 unless they date from some well-known event recorded by the foreigner4 7,in other places people have told me1 it was so many bread-fruit seasons ago2 it was when such a ship was here47 ,magongi1 the owner of our hut1 returning from his fishing1 drops a fish or two at our posts1 according to ,samoan etiquette and in honour to guests and chiefs like ourselves4 ,faces are turned from gazing at the sea1 toward the houses where meals are getting ready4 ,the young people give up their seats on the little platforms1 or 8lookouts0 by the sea1 and the lover confides his courtship1 in ,polynesian way1 to others to continue for him4 ,this evening1 as every evening1 with the last afterglow1 in each hut of the village1 with the lighting of fire or lamp1 comes the sound of the evening prayer before meal4 ,in pagan days1 with the lighting of the evening fire 7meant for light71 in the hollow basin scooped out in the centre of the hut1 after a libation to the gods outside1 thrown out between the posts1 the ,samoan prayed a prayer like this3 8,sail by1 ,o ,gods6 and let us be3 ,ye unknown ,gods1 who haunt the sea40 ,when ,i hear the sound of the evening hymn1 fixed and certain like all their habits1 ,i recall this prayer1 so full of the future that has come upon these dwellers in islands1 and has brought with our faith and our ideas--the latter certainly misunderstood--a slow extinction of their past and of their very existence4 ,for in all ,polynesia1 though arrested now for a time1 there has been within the hundred years from discovery a fading away4 ,as the ,tahitian song says3 8,the coral will grow and man must perish40 ,i have been telling of the influence of missionaries upon old customs1 such as dances4 ,let me say something further4 ,i want to note that it was easier to get the ,samoans to accept any form of ,christian worship because their religion was simpler than that of the other islands4 ,they were free from a great many horrors--the belief in the necessity of human sacrifice4 ,they hated cannibalism4 ,their heavier nature had never led them to such immorality as tempted other ,south ,sea ,islanders1 who thereby resemble us more4 ,then the missionaries came to them so late--at the end of the thirties--that the ,samoans had already been able to learn about this religion that fixed everything--this desirable law called ,lotu1 which was to settle everything for them1 and make everything straight4 7,lotu#e also means church1 ,lotu ,tonga1 the ,tongan ,church1 etc47 ,so that within the very shortest possible time the missionaries succeeded in converting them1 in fact1 were waited for and expected1 one might say1 by the next chance ship4 ,the terrible reputation of savageness of these islanders1 owing to their having murdered ,la ,peyrouse's men in ,tutuila1 on first acquaintance1 so guarded them that even so far back as #ahcf1 and later1 very little was known of them--they were carefully avoided4 ,but certain outcasts1 escaped convicts1 terrors of the sea1 had come among them1 and had even begun to instruct them to expect this law of ,good4 ,it is one of the most touching1 as well as one of the most atrocious1 of small facts4 ,old ,samasone was telling us the stories of these old times3 how some stranded ruffian1 unable to return to white lands1 had felt obliged1 upon being questioned1 to assert his value and knowledge by some imitation that might not later conflict with the outside facts4 ,some brutal1 drunken1 murderous wretch would choose1 some day1 to simulate a ,sunday1 and sing obscene or brutal forecastle songs1 all the same to those who did not understand a word1 as representing the church service of song which he described4 ,samasone1 whose ,american name is ,hamilton1 and who has been here for the third of a century1 tells us lengthily and in detail such stories1 and gives us long accounts of ,samoan manners1 in the same way that might be his if he were still in native ,new ,england4 ,and when ,i shut my eyes1 ,i can fancy myself sitting on the edge of some ,newport wharf1 and listening to ,captain ,jim or ,captain ,sam1 discoursing wisely1 with infinite detail4 ,fifty years have passed since those things1 paralleled more or less elsewhere in the ,south ,seas2 and now from the hut of ,mataafa1 the great chief1 which is next to mine1 with the sunset1 comes the ,angelus1 sung by the people yet nearer to nature than ,millet's peasants4 ,i hear also the ,ave ,maria ,stella2 the cry of the exiled sons of ,eve for help in this vale of tears1 for whether ,catholic like ,mataafa1 or ,protestant like my good neighbour ,tofae1 they are all very ,christian4 ,indeed1 my other neighbour is a preacher1 an eloquent one1 like a true ,samoan1 a race where eloquence is hereditary in families4 ,i hear him thundering on ,sundays against the ,babylonians1 and all the bad people of ,scripture4 ,they are all steeped in a knowledge of the words of the ,bible4 ,in any serious conversation1 in political discussion1 we hear the well-known types of character referred to1 and all the analogies pushed to the furthest extreme4#f ,the rather light-minded girls whom we have about us amuse themselves on ,sunday with capping verses from the ,bible4 ,the young men of our boat crew1 whose moral views on many subjects would bring a blush to the cheek of the most hardened clubman1 are fond of leading in prayer1 are learned in hymnology1 and are apt to be fairly strict sabbatarians4 ,here and elsewhere1 in many other islands1 it is often very difficult on ,sunday to obtain the use of a boat1 the only vehicle possible4 ,remember that ,i am1 and shall be for a long time1 writing from islands1 where all life is along the shore1 where only occasionally are there roads1 or what we would call roads2 where there are few horses1 somtimes none at all2 where the natural road is over the beach1 when it is uninterrupted by rock and cliffs1 and where the boat can take you quietly along inside of the reef4 ,but as ,i shall make it out clearly later1 the ,polynesian likes to have things settled one way or the other1 as all sensible people do4 ,and then the ,bible--,i am not speaking of the ,new ,testament--is so near them2 they read so often their own story in the life of ,israel of many centuries back4 ,they are not separated from a civilization of that form by such and so many changes as our ancestors' minds have passed through4 ,their habit of life must even be said to antedate the biblical4 ,they do not have to make excuses for the conduct of ,god's chosen people4 ,they can take all as it is written4 ,they need not suppose some error in the account of the witch of ,endor4 ,in such a valley1 buried under trees1 or behind that headland where the palms toss in the roar of the trades1 dwells some woman1 wiser and more powerful in the solitude and in the night than we judge her by day4 ,she can tell what things are happening elsewhere2 what things are likely to come4 ,she brings in the dead by the hand4 ,she tells of what the dead are now doing1 of their wars and their struggles in the empty outside world4 ,what she revealed some nights ago1 to a chosen few who say they were present1 is murmured about the villages1 and makes a feature of conversation not unlike society news4 ,i have listened at night1 in out-of-the-way places1 among preachers and people of confirmed ,bible piety1 to the last reports from the spirit world3 to the news of war there2 to the tale of great fights which had occurred on such a day of the moon1 when the battleground of the reef was strewn with the corpses of the dead already dead to us4 ,and ,i remember once hearing how some spirit ruling over a part of our island had declined to enter into war because he had not been attacked1 and his religious principles1 which were ,christian1 confined him to the defensive4 ,perhaps all these things meant more to my good friends than they did to me1 curious as ,i was to find in these reports some traits of their character1 some manner of theirs of looking at the things of this world4 ,i believe that to them these agitations of the outside world were presages of coming danger1 of trouble to their earthly lives2 that they saw omens of victory because the spirits of such and such possible ancestors had triumphed4 ,but no doubt1 in some way not understood by me1 all these vague stories confirmed them in certain directions1 or made them hesitate4 ,at any rate1 it kept the land peopled with fears4 ,it makes the terror of the forest more vivid and more reasonable4 ,the po--the dark1 the night--is impressive to the ,polynesian2 the brave man may have all the fear of the little boy4 ,and ,i own that ,i have never seen a nature which at night assumed more mystery1 a more threatening quiet4 ,the vegetation never rests4 ,the plants are always growing4 ,the sighing of the palms so deceptively like rain2 the glitter of the great leaves of the banana1 striking one against the other1 with a half metallic clink2 the fall of dead branches2 the sudden drop of the cocoanut or the bread-fruit2 the perpetual draught1 carrying indefinite sounds from the untrodden interior2 the echo of the surf from the reef1 against the high mountains2 the splash of the water on the shore2 the flight of the 8flying fox0 in the branches2 the ghostlike step of the barefooted passerby2 the impossibility of the eye carrying far throught angles of tropical foliage--all these things make the night--the po1 not a cessation of impressions1 but a new mystery4 ,with such a landscape about me1 ,i was ready to believe that handsome young men belated in the passages of the mountains had been met by the female spirit1 whether her name be ,sau ,mai ,afi or not1 whose sudden love is death2 and that the same being could be a man when the night traveller was a woman and beautiful4 ,had not the brother of one of our virgin friends been assailed by devils1 in some adventurous night voyage1 and had he not returned half crazed1 and beaten in such a way that he had never recovered8 ,all this had happened while we were there2 we might have found him alive had we come a few weeks earlier4 ,and in the night-fishing how often do the dead1 continuing their habits1 fish on the reefs alongside of the living4 ,they are silent1 and their canoes keep apart1 but they may silently step from one canoe to another1 only to be known by the chill and anxiety that goes with them4 ,i have seen with my own eyes1 far out on the reef1 the solitary torch pointed out to me as that of the dead4 ,often1 when suspected1 the spirit occupant of a canoe has made for shore and disappeared1 incessu patuit dea1 and has been assuredly recognized by the track of her torch through the mountains1 where no living man goes4 ,that certainly must have been our spirit disastrous to young men4 ,all these sides of common belief1 or what perhaps we might call superstition1 were shown to us little by little4 ,on the outside our good friends believe roughly as we do1 and all this that ,i am talking about is what remains attached to ,christianity1 or more properly1 never disentangled from it4 ,and ,i should suppose that it must have been difficult for the missionaries to expel these survivals of the past1 in the same way that the old ,church found it impossible1 in certain corners of ,europe1 to wipe out the belief in fairies--the 8little men10 the 8good folk10 the 8wee folk10 the 8good neighbours02 the sacredness and influence of places4 ,and here the practical mind of the savage1 in its first reaction1 after having received a set form of worship and faith as a great relief1 would argue that the written ,law1 the ,book1 countenances most of the things they cared for in their older worship4 ,a very few years after the first christianization which began in the ,society ,islands1 sects were formed1 based upon the ,bible1 or using it as an excuse1 with all the security of any theological difference4 ,i have a vague feeling that many of my brown friends think that the ,christian1 even the missionary1 does not carry out properly his belief1 and that they themselves are nearer to the letter as well as to the spirit4 ,if the missionaries have let loose among them the famous question of the lost tribes1 ,i have no doubt that many of them must be imbued with the certainty of that descent4 ,many of their practices are so much like those of the early ,jews1 that1 according to old-fashioned ways of historical criticism1 an uninterrupted tradition might be argued4 ,in fact1 ,i am quite sure that many of the missionaries have so reasoned1 and implanted among them a great feeling of confidence4 ,and the ,polynesian1 having a perfectly healthy mind1 likes to have everything settled4 ,anything more like the typical respectable ,englishman ,i have never met4 ,with the brown man one sees the natural healthy desire of having the questions of religion1 of politics1 of society1 all settled on the same basis2 there is such a thing as good form1 and that settles it4 ,after the first start1 the islanders were much troubled at finding that there were many ways of looking at things1 and that religion might be right and manners bad3 that the wife of the missionary1 who insisted on poke bonnets1 was not dressing according to the most aristocratic forms of her own land4 ,and when they find that their written religion does not provide for all their little wants1 it must be very natural to supply the smaller ones1 which are the everyday ones1 with some of the older forms more fitted for individual and temporal advantages4 ,it must be a comfort to many of them to know that the flight of certain birds indicates what they had better do to-morrow2 that the coming of certain fish may mean1 nay does mean--some change in family history2 and they may still prefer to treat respectfully the animals and plants that were associated with their origins--what we might roughly call1 their totem4 ,the shark has been respected or the bread-fruit1 or the owl2 and in certain cases certain mysterious powers and sanctities might follow the line of descent1 though concealed from the public1 more especially the white men4 ,of this1 ,i ought perhaps to say that ,i am confident2 and that the powers would be recognized in certain people even when1 as ,i have seen it1 they belong to opposing ,christian sects4 ,the missionaries were ,wesleyans1 or1 rather1 men of the ,london ,missionary ,society4 ,the form seems to have suited the ,samoans4 ,it was a service in which every one took part4 ,there was preaching and eloquence and oratory1 and to a certain extent the community was invited into the church--not allowed to enter into the church as a favour4 ,so that notwithstanding their fondness for externals1 the ,catholic service gives them less of their old1 natural1 ancestral habits by centring everything in the ministrations of the priest1 and by cutting off all chance of any members of the congregation becoming themselves orators1 deacons or preachers1 and leading in turn themselves4 ,the chiefs also would hesitate in a choice of humiliations2 the missionary1 white at first and now a native obtaining a position of equal and sometimes superior influence1 and that without any civil preparation for the same--indeed with less fitness from the relative isolation of his days of study4 ,later on ,i may explain to you more fully how absolutely the chief is the pivot of all social good4 ,he has been for indefinite ages the cause of all action2 he has been personally superior both in body and mind4 ,the entire aristocracy is a real one1 the only one ,i know of4 ,it is impossible to enter into it1 though one may be born into it4 ,with our ideas of more or less ,germanic origin we suppose a ruler gifted with the power of bestowing part of his value upon certain men lower than himself1 and actually making such people essentially different4 ,a ,polynesian knows no such metaphysical subtlety4 ,the actual blood of physical descent is essential to supremacy1 except in a most vicarious and momentary manner1 or as by marriage so that the children may become entitled to whatever the sum of the blood of parents represents4 ,with them an heir to aristocratic privileges or power or influence or prestige represents nothing more than the arithmetical sum of his father's and mother's blood4 ,i have had lately a ,sunday afternoon visit all to myself1 from a charming little girl who is the daughter and sole child of the king2 a nice little girl with pretty little royal ways1 who explains to me that she does not like things here so well as she did where she was taught ,english1 where she had been at school1 in the ,british colony of ,fiji4 ,there she was a king's daughter1 and any ,english ideas around her would be more flattering to her consequence than even the kindly feeling of the subjects of her father4 ,for her mother is not of equal blood1 besides being a foreigner4 ,the great chief ,malietoa ,laupepa1 whom we have made a king1 cannot make his wife1 according to ,polynesian ideas1 any more than what she was before he married her2 and the little daughter has only in her veins the royal blood on one side1 and a certain respectability on the other4 ,to the true ,polynesian mind1 such a one of her cousins1 of less high descent on the father's side1 may be of higher descent on the mother's1 and the sum of those descents may be very much greater than the sum of the descents of the daughter of ,malietoa ,laupepa4 ,hence it requires a great stretch of loyalty to look at such a little person with the veneration that the ,polynesian feels for 8chiefy0 origin2 and you can understand what a disastrous and bloody muddle we have made it for them when we have told them that the word king represented anything that they had themselves or could have4 ,with them ,rex nascitur non fit4 ,all this has been explained by the supposition of two different races1 one of which1 that of the chiefs1 had subdued the other4 ,there is no such tradition1 however1 and no apparent reasons to explain the enormous superiority of the aristocratic lines except the simple physical ones of choice in breeding and of better food and less suffering1 continued for centuries and centuries4 ,even at a distance a chief can be distinguished by his size and his gait1 and a successful collection at some political entertainment brings back the dream of lines in the ,homeric catalogues of heroes4 ,great size of limb1 great height1 consequent strength and weight1 a haughty bearing1 a manner of standing1 a manner of throwing his legs out in walking1 like the step of a splendid animal1 a habit of sitting upright--all these points tell the chief4#g ,upon these superior beings1 then1 brought up to command1 considered as sacred by themselves and by all below them1 devolved perpetually the duty of deciding everything that was to be done4 ,even in a detail so minute to our minds as that of a day for fishing1 the chief decided1 and does yet1 what the community should do4 ,the good fortune of all was dependent upon his wise choice4 ,as the chief has often explained to us1 when the women began to talk too much1 and fix their minds upon harmful gossip1 a healthy diversion was that of ordering them to make the native cloth--an absorbing process4 ,with all the refinement of political leaders1 excuses would be found for such an enforcement of industry3 the occasion of some visit to be made or received1 when every one entitled to it should appear with many changes of dress2 when the visitor or the visited should receive presents of beautiful cloth4 ,let me say how elsewhere1 in another group of islands1 the earlier missionary interfered and broke up the industry of women1 without evil intention1 making them idle1 and opening thereby the gate to ruin4 ,in ,polynesian life1 as ,i am trying to explain1 things were intimately connected4 ,there were religious forms or words--or shall ,i rather say1 forms and words of good omen8--accompanying all ordinary human action4 ,had the missionaries realized this perfectly1 they might almost have interfered with the savages' breathing2 but they fastened on the pagan forms connected with the making of cloth1 and the women gave it up1 and bought cotton from the white man1 and paid for it the ,lord knows how4 ,the chief1 then1 sent the young men to fish and the women to work1 when it was needed both for physical and moral good4 ,war1 of course1 they always had1 as a last resource1 just like the great politicians of ,europe4 ,the constant interference1 involuntary very often1 very often most kindly meant1 of the missionary or the clergyman1 diminished this influence of the chief--an unwritten1 uncodified power1 properly an influence1 something that when once gone has to be born again4#h ,and the brown clergyman1 continuing the authority of the white one1 has something further1 less pure1 a feeling of ambition1 a desire to assert himself against former superiors2 and he is perhaps still more a dissolvent of the body politic into which he was born4 ,i see no picture about me more interesting than the moral one of my next neighbour1 the great ,mataafa4 ,to see the devout ,christian1 the man who has tried to put aside the small things that tie us down1 struggle with the antique prejudices--necessary ones--of a ,polynesian nobleman1 is a touching spectacle4 ,when a young missionary rides up to his door1 while all others gently come up to it1 and those who pass move far away1 out of respect2 and then when the confident youth1 full of his station as a religious teacher1 speaks to the great chief from his saddle1 ,mataafa's face is a study4 ,over the sensitive countenance1 which looks partly like that of a warrior1 partly like that of a bishop or church guardian1 comes a wave of surprise and disgust1 promptly repelled1 as the higher view of forgiveness and respect for holy office comes to his relief4 ,but ,mataafa is not only a chief of chiefs1 he is a gentleman among gentlemen4 ,my companion1 difficult to please1 says1 8,la ,farge1 at last we have met a gentleman40 ,his is a sad fate3 to have done all for ,samoa2 to have beaten the ,germans and wearied them out2 to have been elected king by almost unanimous consent1 including that of the present ,king1 who wished him to reign2 then to be abandoned by us2 and to feel his great intellectual superiority and yet to be idle and useless when things are going wrong4 ,and more than all1 however supported by the general feeling to-day1 if he moves to establish his claims1 the three foreign nations who decide ,samoa's future1 not for her good1 but for their comfort or advantage1 will certainly have to combine and crush him4 ,he is a hero of tragedy--a reminder of the ,middle ,ages1 when a man could live a religious life and a political one4 ,and his adversaries among the natives are among our friends2 and we like them also1 though there is none to admire like ,mataafa standing out for an idea for the legitimacy of right4 ,for all the soft ,communism of which ,i spoke1 the chiefs were the stiffening1 and are so still in as far as the new ideas1 or rather want of ideas1 do not affect their real authority4 ,as ,i tried to explain1 these are chiefs1 lesser or greater1 hereditary1 essential2 nothing can replace them1 no commoner come into their position or a similar one4 ,alongside of them an ,european monarch is a half-caste or a parvenu4 ,when1 as you will see1 we1 that is to say the ,english and ,americans1 made one of them a king1 we made a thing unknown before1 unthinkable in reality among their social machinery4 ,for however true it is that the chief is so by birth1 by authority of nature1 you know that in ,samoa he is also elective4 ,a council of chiefs of his own race determine whether or no he shall 8bear the name40 ,for smaller chiefs1 their own names2 for certain great ones1 such a name as ,aana or ,malietoa4 ,with these names goes the power over certain places large or small1 but each having a traditional value4 ,should a chief of sufficient blood have all these five names 7and he cannot get them without such natural inheritance and the name may remain empty71 should he have all five names1 then he is of necessity king1 that is to say1 chief of chiefs4 ,but if he have only three1 then imagine the confusion made in the true ,samoan mind by our making him king4 ,mataafa has held more names than any other1 and would no doubt be to-day elected king by the majority of the ,samoans2 and absolute agreement would probably always be impossible4 ,but though the treaty between ,germany1 ,england1 and the ,united ,states1 as promulgated in the ,island1 decided that the ,samoans should elect their king1 and thereby ,mataafa would be the man2 yet a secret arrangement1 or what is prettily called a protocol1 not published to the ,samoans1 decided that ,mataafa especially and alone should not be allowed4 ,he was the only man who had successfully defended ,samoan independence as far as it could be1 by word and by action2 he had fought the ,germans and defeated them1 and that was the reason4 ,according to ,american ideas ,mataafa would be the only proper person1 but ,germany and ,england have arranged for some time back all matters of influence and policy2 and whatever we have wished1 or might have wished1 we have always been obliged to vote over against them1 and must continue to do so4 ,but the ,german cause is such a bad one1 so foul at the origin1 and so brutally helped on1 that it has been impossible for ,great ,britain to ignore justice absolutely1 and we have done something in the cause of humanity and so far served ,god4 ,money can have no feeling2 political ambition only what may help2 and the cause of all this trouble which has made this little island known to the entire world is the hope of saving some money badly invested4 ,a great ,hamburg firm with a ,french name1 the ,godeffroys1 had some years ago established itself in most islands of the ,pacific2 it was the great firm--the ,german firm4 ,but as often happens1 speculations in other matters1 or ,russian-,westphalian securities broke the great man1 the former friend of ,bismarck1 and when a ,german company1 known as 8,the ,german ,company10 succeeded to his assets in the ,south ,seas1 they found the greater part of them sunk in the ,hares-plantations of the firm in the ,islands of ,samoa4 ,everywhere else there was no hope1 but here if sales could be proved valid1 if by any means the present labour system of black imported savages from other islands could be replaced by a system of 8peonage10 for the natives1 if taxes could be placed upon the community which can only be taxed by making the industrious support the idle1 if in fact1 the firm could control the islands1 money might again be made and perhaps the millions sunk be made to pay or fully recovered4 ,elsewhere in islands where ,french or ,english ruled1 it was so much the worse for the adventurous if things went wrong1 and there are cotton plantations and sugar plantations1 which have gone to pieces as it became impossible to keep them up1 industries and speculations which first started into life with our war4 ,from early days political or state reasons were carefully kept together with business ones2 the political representative of ,germany would be also the manager of the firm1 so that if one kind of reasoning did not work1 then another might4 ,anything became constructive insult or opposition to the ,empire of ,germany--even a sort of lse majest or suspicion of treason4 ,business and the navy supported each other1 and on a small scale the story of the 8,john ,company of ,india0 was repeated1 with the same cruelties and atrocities more easily noticed because of foreigners being there1 because of our modern institutions of the press and the telegram4 ,,an ,,account ,,of ,,residence ,,at ,,vaiala ,our friends ,seumanu and ,faatulia tell us1 with much emotion1 how ,malietoa1 now the king1 wept with them when he went off a half voluntary prisoner of the ,germans1 hoping that by his sufferings his country would be spared bloodshed2 and that in some way or other the ,europeans would desist from their grasping demands4 ,then ,mataafa headed the resistance which two years ago saved his race from the extermination threatened by the ,germans2 made him among his own people the equal of his hereditary claims2 and entitled him to the name given him by ,admiral ,kimberly1 that of the ,washington of ,samoa4 ,to fight ,german discipline1 and ,german ironclads1 with naked followers bound together with the loosest ideas of allegiance1 seems a story out of a dream1 and certainly would have come to a disastrous end had we not interfered4 ,the ,berlin ,conference in which we acted restored ,malietoa to his home and his power practically1 but in theory made him dependent on the choice of the ,samoans1 which choice the conference guaranteed4 ,that is to say1 those were the words of the treaty on which ,mataafa stood4 ,but both ,english and ,germans agreed that a man who had defeated the ,germans should not be elected1 whether he was chosen by the country or not4 ,this secret protocol is a disgraceful result of the indifference of our representatives to the good name of the ,united ,states1 and to what is more atrocious yet in my mind--a want of comprehension of the value of the ,united ,states and of its enormous power4 ,one must go abroad and far away to realize that whenever we wish we are one of the main powers of the world4 ,it is on our sleeping that grasping nations like ,england and ,germany depend4 ,mataafa has probably been aware of the secret protocol which excluded him from competition as king1 a protocol1 as ,i have said1 made exclusively to please the ,germans1 by the very weak person whom we detailed to the ,berlin ,conference4 ,to repeat1 we made a treaty which would give the ,samoans the right to elect their so-called king or head chief1 and now we break its lawful meaning by providing that the one man who would have most suffrages1 and who represented the highest claims of legitimacy1 should be exempted if elected4 ,when ,malietoa1 brought back by the ,germans1 worn out in body through his sufferings in a cruel detention1 landed again in ,samoa1 he was received by ,mataafa4 ,remember that they are blood relations1 and that when one failed1 the other had taken up his cause and won4 ,they embraced each other1 and were left alone by their attendants4 ,it is said that ,malietoa urged upon ,mataafa to retain the power1 ,mataafa declining4 ,some compromise was effected1 the terms of which are not known1 but which meant that ,malietoa should go on reigning without ,mataafa's abandoning any claims4 ,now ,mataafa is in a sort of retirement1 living in a manner extremely difficult for us to understand1 were it not that he resumes in his person all the ideas that a ,south ,sea man can have regarding the proper chief of chiefs4 ,remember that he is tui1 which is nearly what we call a king1 of the great districts of ,atua and ,aana1 which have prescriptive rights of election2 and he has himself the name of ,malietoa--what we would call the title given him by the very district of ,malie from which the ,malietoa derives his name3 and that this was given to him when there was no one to bear this historic burden4 ,here he is1 living in the further end of the village1 only a few feet from our own hut1 which as you know is loaned to us1 we suppose by ,magogi the chief1 though this is not very distinct4 ,of course in ,samoan way we shall present to him1 or to somebody1 gifts equivalent to the use of the house1 to the dignity of ,magogi1 and to our own essential dignity of ,american chiefs4 ,to my western mind the situation is very curious4 ,mataafa is already in a mild opposition which at any moment may become extremely serious4 ,he must know the intentions of the three powers1 and cannot1 as ,i understand1 forego his claims4 ,here he resides under the apparent protection of the chiefs of the village1 our friend ,tofae1 and his brother ,patu1 the great warrior1 who are ,i think necessarily partisans of ,malietoa2 and who would make war upon him in case of a break4 ,but outwardly the greatest reverence attends him4 ,one feels it in the air4 ,at this end of the village1 separated from the other by many trees1 there is always quiet4 ,the children never make any noise2 even the very animals seem to understand that they must not come near4 ,the few disturbances are those of ,mataafa's own men when they do any chores in the outside huts reserved for practical purposes1 so as to keep all housekeeping away from the residence4 ,the giggling girls are quieter2 every one's voice is lowered3 on the road that passes at a little distance from the great chief people edge away toward the further bushes in the quietest and most homely manner4 ,there is the perpetual recognition of a king's presence4 ,mataafa goes out very little4 ,he trudges out to early mass1 along the same exact path2 has services at home1 and every evening the hymns are sung within his hut4 ,he goes out early in the morning to do work1 like everybody else1 in his little patch of taro planting1 and returns after this gentle exercise1 naked to the waist1 like any other common mortal4 ,his goings out are apparently few2 though ,i seem to see certain special visitors drop in of an evening4 ,sometimes1 as you know1 he calls upon us1 and this was his first--shall ,i say command or visiting-card8 7,envelope7 ,ia ,lasusuuga ,alii ,amelika ,nasei maliu mai nei ,oi le fale o ,tofae 7,autograph letter7 ,vaiala ,oketopa1 #aa #ahij iala susuuga ,alii ,amelika ,aliie ale nei lau tusi ia te ou lua ia ou lua faamolemole oute manao e fia fesi la fai ma oulua susuuga fe oute alu atu ilou lua maoto fe lua te maliu mai i lau ,fale alou taofi lea efaasilasila atu is ou lua susuuga4 ,ona pau lea ia ,saifua4 ,o au ,m ,j ,mataafa ,translation ,vaiala1 ,oct4 #aa1 #ahij4 ,to the ,distinguished ,chiefs of ,america ,o ,chiefs ,this my letter to you both4 ,will you please my wish to meet your ,honours8 ,shall ,i go to your residence1 or will you come to my house8 ,this it is my wish to let your ,honours know4 ,this is all4 ,may you live4 ,i am ,m4 ,j4 ,mataafa 7,malietoa ,josefo ,mataafa7 ,in return for our call the great chief has called many times upon us4 ,he apologizes almost for his position of something sacred1 for his being obliged to drink out of his own cup1 for instance1 and1 as ,i told you1 has yielded very slowly to the investigations of ,atamo#i concerning the rights of law1 of property1 of kinship1 which must at first have appeared to him irrelevant and indiscreet4 ,even ,seumanu1 with whom we are so familiar that we threaten to take away his name occasionally 7,samoan legal deposition from office71 even ,seumanu was obliged to say once1 8,years ago ,i would have killed a man who asked me that question60 ,i believe it was some inquiry as to his exact descent and consequent claims from his grandmother4 ,but one of these visits of ,mataafa brought about a meeting with ,stevenson which ,i had thought might not take place for some time4 ,it is always difficult for those of us who have the cosmopolitan instinct to realize how fundamental are the views of the ,britisher4 ,mr4 ,stevenson had been explaining to us a difficulty ,i could hardly appreciate1 and that was the question of whether he should call on ,mataafa or wait until ,mataafa called on him4 ,i know how that would be settled in ,england4 ,no one would expect the ,queen or the ,prince of ,wales to call first1 even though they cannot have for themselves the sense of dignity and sacredness which must envelop ,mataafa4 ,the ,queen is the head of the church and defender of the faith2 but she is not so by blood1 whether there be a church or not4 ,it is this peculiar element of something sacred1 as it were of the son of a demigod1 the natural intermediary between this world and the next1 which is gently latent in the original idea of the aristocracy of these people4 ,even to ,roman ,paula1 the spiritual daughter of ,st4 ,jerome1 it must have been something beyond our ken to be a descendant of1 let us say1 ,agamemnon or ,achilles or other sons of demigods4 ,in this state of mind ,mr4 ,stevenson came in upon us during one of ,mataafa's visits1 and succumbed at once to the delicate courtesy of the great chief4 ,he managed so prettily to express his knowledge of ,stevenson's distinction1 of his being a writer of stories1 and a wish to know him limited by the difficulties of his position4 ,meanwhile1 ,i say1 ,mataafa bides his time4 ,he waits patiently1 en vidence1 but doing nothing4 ,this will irritate his enemies1 but ,i seem to see that for him there can be no more legal course4 ,as long as he does nothing1 and makes only a mute appeal to justice1 he is entirely in the right4 ,he is not supposed to accede to the protocol which excluded him4 ,i think ,i understand somewhat of the absurdly complicated position which his friends or his enemies hold--position based on hereditary rights2 long internecine wars2 ancient privileges of small places which have rights of election1 but which are too weak to enforce them2 and1 above all1 on both sides questions of complicated descent4 ,even if ,i were correct1 and made no mistakes1 which could hardly be1 ,i would not dare to go into a lengthy explanation of the claims on both sides4 ,one great enmity ,mataafa has3 more intense than that of the ,germans1 because partly unconscious and founded on the worst passion of humanity--theological hatred4 ,that enmity is the dislike of the foreign ,protestant missionary1 who moreover is absolutely ,english in his ideas1 his wishes1 his intentions1 and has a perpetual political bias4 ,mataafa is a ,catholic1 like many of the chiefs4 ,naturally he has ,catholic advisers1 and some of them may be--though ,i don't know it for sure--tainted by the same politico-religious ideas as their opponents4 ,they probably supply the great chief with information of what the great outside world would do in his favour2 opinions based on their wishes1 and not on the meanness of mankind1 which is the only logical basis of politics4 ,as a proof of the atrocities to which the religious mind can consent1 listen to this charming detail4 ,it belongs to a time when ,i was no longer in ,samoa4 ,i have mentioned in my other journals and letters the names of the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,claxton of the ,london ,missionary ,society2 and ,i can add to what ,i said that was pleasant that he seemed to be the usual gentle clergyman1 with side-whiskers1 and sufficiently modern1 and that he spoke very nicely1 as ,i thought1 of the religious state of the ,samoans1 and evinced a sense of a certain steadfastness of theirs1 which distinguishes them from many of the other varieties of ,south ,sea people4 ,mr4 ,claxton also pleased us by recognizing the ,samoan dances as not being sinful1 by being present at one of them1 with ,mrs4 ,claxton4 ,you know that poor ,faatulia was excommunicated for attending the ,fourth of ,july dance1 which was of course attended by the wives or daughters or aunts of the ,english or ,american consuls4 ,the action of our reverend friend was all the more graceful because the dance was in honour of ,faatulia's niece1 if ,i remember4 ,mrs4 ,claxton also we hear all sorts of nice things about4 ,she is 8,misi ,talatoni10 and ,meli ,hamilton gets a great deal of fun out of her1 pretending that we admire her dress much more than ,meli's4 ,never would you suspect these gentle associations connected with the ideas of medival assassination4 ,but in ,august1 our ,consul1 coming down to ,australia1 and meeting us on the way to ,java1 told me the following story because he wished me to take a hand myself4 ,mataafa's habits were1 as might be expected from his character1 particularly steady as belonging to a war chief1 a king1 and a devout churchman4 ,he went to mass every day1 by the same path1 and did not flinch or change his track when the ,germans fired at him4 ,somehow or other1 as happens to generals and to people who make a good mark1 he was never hit4 ,on this peculiarity of ,mataafa's was based a proposition made by the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,claxton to the ,consul4 ,there was now absolute peace2 and ,mataafa and myself1 or you would have a perfect right to walk along the road to church without being fired at4 ,but ,german discipline has characteristics quite as distinct as ,mataafa's4 ,might it not be possible1 if any ,german marines were landed by chance1 to place some sentries on ,mataafa's road1 presumably if he went to evening service8 ,he would suspect no harm1 and even if he did1 would not move from his path4 ,the ,german sentinel would by duty be obliged to fire1 and consequently no one would be to blame1 and ,mataafa would be out of the way4 ,this the reverend clergyman thought could be managed4 ,what ,consul ,sewall wished of me was that ,i should warn a friend of ,mataafa's1 ,father ,gavet1 who lived somewhere along the coast1 but whose long acquaintance with ,samoan manners would find some way of avoiding the possibility of this little incident4 ,i wrote to ,father ,gavet1 who answered me1 at some distance of time1 of course1 that the plot was understood2 for1 as ,mataafa said to me1 8,there are no secrets in ,samoa10 and the friends of ,mataafa had taken necessary precautions4 ,i never heard anything more about it1 but ,i believe that the ,reverend ,claxton has been withdrawn4 ,of course as long as the waters are so disturbed1 each party may hope to fish for their advantage2 that is to say1 the ,german for politico-commercial reasons1 and the ,english for the same2 and this all the more that the ,english government recognizes what is called spheres of influence1 and that it is inclined to concede to ,germany such an influence here1 even if its representatives be not officially ordered to do so4 ,we1 who do not recognize these spheres of influence1 are1 however1 prone to assist all ,protestant missionary tendencies1 right or wrong4 ,votes are votes4 ,besides1 not only do we not recognize spheres of influence1 but we are uncertain of any political tradition1 and we are easily handled by ,england1 to whom we are still intellectually subject4 ,we are also more or less out of the game4 ,we have no ,heligoland or ,hinterland in ,africa1 to trade off against influence in ,samoa or ,new ,guinea4 ,we are still in the dark as to our fortune2 we don't know the importance of the ,pacific ,ocean to us1 nor the immensity of future eastern trade4 ,as the ,germans here impertinently remark1 we would trade an empire against the votes of a town in ,new ,jersey1 or the honour of dining with a countess4 ,brands1 the ,german dictator1 that is to say the ,german official who controlled ,samoa for a time1 representing both ,germany and ,samoa1 said of us3 8,a nation1 which in all decisions of foreign policy must take into its councils the senate and sixty million of people1 can never have a foreign policy worthy of the name40 ,we might easily withdraw1 even temporarily2 then for the protection of ,german property1 ,german forces could be landed in ,samoa1 the imperial flag be hoisted1 and whoever would dare to haul it down8 ,bismarck1 acting through his son ,herbert1 has apparently well arranged our agreements so that events might turn easily that way4 ,on ,mataafa these conditions hinge4 ,as he acts1 or is kept from acting1 the possible possession of this key of the ,pacific will be determined4 ,and yet the ,pacific is our natural property4 ,our great coast borders it for a quarter of the world4 ,we must either give up ,hawaii1 which will inevitably then go over to ,england1 or take it willingly1 if we need to keep the passage open to eastern ,asia1 the future battleground of commerce4 ,you can see how reasonable it is then that ,mataafa should take an interest in us as ,americans1 and hold on to a hope that we might1 however faintly1 help the cause of his people1 and keep them1 as he says1 from slavery4 ,moreover1 as his men it was who rescued our sailors in the great calamity of #ahhi1 even though they also rescued the ,germans1 with whom they were at war1 he feels that kindness of obligation which comes to those who have tried to benefit others4 ,all this is politics1 and you are probably1 like the ,united ,states1 more or less indifferent to anything that has not the name that you are accustomed to4 ,to me1 on the contrary1 my real and absorbing delight is the sense of looking at the world in a little nutshell1 and of seeing everything reduced to such a small scale1 and to so few people1 that ,i can take1 as it were1 my first lessons in history4 ,i don't know that ,i should put it all into the form that ,mr4 ,stevenson uses1 in which ,i do not quite agree with him3 that here1 at length1 we were free from the pressure of ,roman civilization4 ,i own of course1 that all comes to us through ,rome1 and that the dago has had the making of us4 ,the words which ,i use of course imply that4 ,i can't talk of politics1 of civilization1 of culture1 of education1 of chivalry1 of any of the aspirations of the western world1 without using the words implanted with the ideas in our barbarous ancestors2 but before the culture and development of ,rome was a something which had some analogies to what ,i see here4 ,i am continually thinking how it may have been with my most remote ancestry1 whenever ,i understand any better the ideas and habits of our good people here4 ,as also they have passed from some still earlier or more remote stages1 their ideas are easier to understand than those for instance of the ,australian or even of the ,fijian4 ,a tendency to the commonplace1 to a certain evening up of ideas1 seems to belong to them1 and makes them easier to understand because in so far they are not unlike us4 ,they dislike excesses in thinking1 and too logical extensions of what might be called political ideas4 ,about all this social difference of organization1 ,i have written to you1 ,i should say continually4 ,i must have given you most of the details1 even if ,i have not made a summary of the form of early civilization4 ,i am troubled also at writing about things and ideas1 and using words which have grown out of things and ideas extremely different and often contradictory4 ,as the ,christian terminology1 the very language of the ,gospels1 was perforce made up of pagan forms and terms1 so to-day1 ,i shall have to describe what might be called pagan forms and ideas in a terminology now influenced by ,christianity1 and saturated with problems connected with it1 so that probably ,greek or ,latin would be more natural1 though even they1 you know1 are read by us with a bias that their authors never dreamed of4 ,but as long as ,i do not write1 it is pleasant to see the ideas without words1 and perhaps descriptions may not have been the worst way to give them4 ,a ,,malaga ,,in ,,seumanu',s ,,boat #beth ,oct41 #ahij4 ,malanga1 written malaga1 is a trip1 a voyage where one puts up with friends1 etc42 one of the fundamental social institutions of ,samoa4 ,,what ,,seumanu's ,,boat ,,was 8,secretary of the ,navy to the ,secretary of ,state4 ,acknowledging assistance by natives of ,samoa4 8,navy ,department1 8,washington1 ,d4 ,c41 ,april #bg1 #ahhi4 8,,sir3 ,in a report dated ,apia1 ,samoa1 ,march #bf1 #ahhi1 from ,rear-,admiral ,l4 ,h4 ,kimberly1 ,u4 ,s4 ,navy1 commanding the ,united ,states naval force on the ,pacific ,station1 the ,navy ,department is informed that invaluable assistance was rendered by certain natives of ,apia1 during the storm of ,saturday1 the #afth ,march4 8,rear-,admiral ,kimberly calls particular attention to ,seumanu ,tafa1 chief of ,apia1 who was the first to man a boat and go to the ,trenton after she struck the reef1 and who also rendered material aid in directing the natives engaged in taking our people and public property on shore on the #agth and #ahth4 8,special recommendation also is given to the men composing the boat's crew1 as follows3 ,muniaga1 ,anapu1 son of ,seumanu1 ,taupau1 chief of ,manono1 ,mose1 ,fuapopo1 ,tete1 ,pita1 ,ionia1 ,apiti1 ,auvaa1 ,alo1 ,tepa4 8,the ,department has the honour to request that you will express to the authorities of ,samoa1 through the proper channels its high sense of the courage and self devotion of ,chief ,seumanu and his fellow countrymen1 in their risking their lives to rescue the shipwrecked officers and crew of the ,trenton from their position of peril and distress2 and that you will1 at the same time1 inform them of its intention to send to the ,chief ,seumanu in accordance with the recommendation of ,rear-,admiral ,kimberly1 and as a mark of its appreciation1 a double-banked whaleboat1 with its fittings1 and to reward suitably the men composing his crew1 for their brave and disinterested service4 ,i have the honour to be1 sir1 very respectfully1 your obedient servant1 8,b4 ,f4 ,tracy1 8,secretary of the ,navy4 8,the ,secretary of ,state40 ,the accompanying extract tells you the story of the boat in which we are making a malaga to some of the places near us--to the northwest end of our island of ,upolu1 to this little ,manono1 with an old reputation for war2 to the ancient sunken volcano crater of ,apolima2 and to ,savaii1 the big island important in politics1 and important in name1 and important in history4#aj ,seumanu takes us along in his boat1 and as it were under his protection1 a convenience certainly1 but also perhaps not an unencumbered blessing1 for there will certainly be a colour of politics in our trip4 ,all the more that our own boat goes along also with our own rowers1 and the consular flag1 for the ,consul is with us1 and is in 7,i fear7 for many speeches which he will have to acknowledge1 and we shall suffer all the more4 ,for already there has been much speech-making2 the tulafales1 the village orators1 and occasionally rulers1 or balances of power with the chiefs1 and who as far as ,i can make out keep this place by inheritance--the tulafales have been in force4 ,seu has repeated their speeches ahead of them in a grumbling way1 evidently not quite pleased4 ,perhaps the paucity of gifts in this poor little place helps to annoy him1 and yet we gave them short notices of our coming and we are many to provide for1 over twenty-five in all2 or perhaps1 nay certainly1 their political complexion is not of the right shade and he remembers too well that they were but figure-heads in the last war1 not withstanding their military renown4 ,what annoys him as a chief 8qui se respecte10 gives us infinite pleasure4 ,all comes down to the small scale that befits the place and its rusticity4 ,it is rustic1 as ,i need not assure you1 but it has also a look of make-believe that gives it a look of landscape gardening--the look of a fit place wherein to give a small operetta in the open air4 ,the village is on a small promontory1 beyond which juts the outline of some rocks crowned by a chief's tomb that is shadowed by trees4 ,the water within the bay reef is of a marvellous green-blue1 whether it rains or whether it shines1 and not far off1 perhaps only a mile or so1 ,upolu is blue or violet or black or grey in mist2 and the sea outside always makes some colour contrast with the sea inside the reef4 ,the village is just high enough upon the shore to conceal the actors on the beach1 except where in two or three places the clean sand sweeps down under the trees or next to heavy rocks1 so as to allow the tenor and the diva of my supposed opera1 to go down and throw out a great song4 ,this is striking enough in the day but in the evening afterglow or the shine of moonlight1 themselves apparently made on purpose1 it is deceptive2 people step down little rocks on coming out of small huts1 a few real canoes are placed under the trees whose outline in the shade has been arranged by nature in rivalry of art4 ,subsidiary pictures painted by a ,greater ,rembrandt with centres of light and prismatic gradations of gloom fill the cottages placed on the little elevations1 and only a few people gracefully move about--just enough in number3 and all with a classic action that comes of not frequenting foreigners4 ,snatches of song1 and cadences come alternately from different corners or from under trees1 and as ,i said all this is lit with a mysterious glow4 ,besides1 in the day there have been few people2 some little girls only in our guest-home and the chief who with his whitened hair1 strong jaw1 and sloping forehead has a fair look of the 8,father of our ,country40 ,in the presentation of food1 a necessary ceremony1 only a dozen men have appeared1 nobodies in particular3 and before them has capered a naked being in green leaves1 as to his hips and head1 who has danced with his back toward us1 keeping the line in order1 and who looks at a distance like the ,faun of the ,greek play in the ,pompeian pictures4 ,then they have all rushed forth and cast down their small presents1 taro and bread-fruit and cocoanuts1 in palm baskets and as suddenly disappeared2 while the tulafale1 an old gentleman of the old school1 making1 according to old fashion1 a great curve of pace that shook out his stiff bark cloth drapery1 has slipped out and taken his place1 leaning on a staff1 his official fly-flapper balanced on his shoulders4 ,these people of importance1 and one ,i think of great dignity1 have squatted down on the grass1 and another has seated himself on the great war drum under the bread-fruit trees4 ,then a long speech has been made1 with praise of us and of our country that has rescued ,samoa1 and thanks to ,god and prayers for our good health1 etc41 etc41 all in a clear voice1 not loud at all1 just enough to reach us1 no more2 and with a ,samoan accent upon the end of each phrase where some important word is skilfully placed4 ,all this we listen to and witness from our little house1 whose posts are garlanded with great bunches of red hibiscus flowers and white gardenia and many leaves1 and the effect is partly that of some living fresco in imitation of the antique1 partly that of an opera in the open air4 ,but if this is real1 then the modern painted pictures of open-air life with the nude and with drapery are false4 ,our ,french and ,english and ,german brethren do not know what it is4 ,apart from the light and its peculiar clearness1 ,delacroix alone1 and sometimes ,millet1 have understood it2 and no one of the regular schools of to-day4 ,back of these1 of course1 all the classics are recalled from ,watteau and ,rubens and the ,spaniards to the furthest ,greek4 ,so that the little episode that worries ,seumanu is full of fun and of charm and of instruction to us4 ,its scale is so small that we can grasp it4 ,there are but half a dozen actors1 and a small set scene4 ,in front of us1 sitting so close to our house1 on its pebble slope1 that his figure is cut partly off1 sits one of the crew1 who1 when all is over1 and the speech has been duly acknowledged by ,seu as our spokesman1 will count over the presents1 and in a loud voice will announce their number and their origin3 ,so many cocoanuts from so and so--so many chickens from so and so--etc4 99 99 99 99 99 ,two mornings ago we left ,vaiala1 and rowed westward within the reefs1 along the north coast of our island of ,upolu1 off which1 within a couple of miles1 lies the little ,manono from which ,i write4 ,twice we stopped in this enemy's country1 that is to say1 among adherents of the former king or head chief set up by the ,germans4 ,there was all the charm that belongs to the near coasting of land in smooth waters3 the rise and fall of the great green reflections in the blue satin of the sea inside of the reef2 the sharp blue outside of the white line of reef all iridescent with the breaking of the surf2 the patches of coral1 white or yellow or purple1 wavering below the crystal swell1 so transparent as to recall the texture of uncut topaz or amethyst2 the shoals of brilliant fish1 blue and gold-green1 as bright and flickering as tropical hummingbirds2 the contrast of great shadows upon the mountain1 black with an inkiness that ,i have never seen elsewhere2 the fringes of golden or green palms upon the shores1 sometimes inviting1 sometimes dreary4 ,and our rowers in their brightest waist cloths1 with great backs and arms and legs1 red and glistening in the sun that wet them even as much as the cocoanut oil with which they were anointed4 ,and when tired with sitting1 they lie stretched out and confidently rest against the giant ,seumanu's great thigh and hip1 while he occasionally patted his sleepy weaker brother1 ,la ,tal4 ,still1 beauty of nature1 and plenty of soft air do not prevent fatigue1 even if they soothe it1 and ,i was glad when in the afternoon we had reached ,leulumoenga--our final halt--a village type of ,samoa1 spread all over the sandy flat of the back beach1 and half hidden in trees4 ,as we came up the shelving beach1 children and women came down to meet us1 and watched us curiously4 ,among them1 in their new dignity of fresh tattooing1 a few youngsters eyed us from further off1 moving little owing to the pain of the continued operations--haggard and fevered looking1 and brushing away nervously1 with bunches of leaves or fly-flaps1 the insects that increased their nervousness4 ,for tattooing is no pleasant matter4 ,the entire surface from hip to knee is punctured with fine needlework4 ,the patient stands what he can1 rests awhile and recovers from his fevered condition2 then submits again1 until slowly he has received the full share4 ,nor does he shirk it--it is his usual entry into manhood2 without it the girls are doubtful about him1 and he is somewhat looked down upon4 ,the present king1 brought up by missionaries1 and accepting many of their prejudices1 had not been tattooed in his youth4 99 99 99 99 99 ,during the few hours of our stopping we returned the call of ,father ,gavet1 one of the ,french missionaries1 and saw his new church that is to replace an older one destroyed by the great hurricane4 ,it is of coral cement1 like most ,south ,sea churches1 a beautiful material when it blackens with time4 ,i hope they will transfer some of the old carvings from the earlier church2 which1 made by early converts1 have a faint look of good barbaric art--so good--oh1 so good--compared to what the good missionaries get from those centres of civilization called ,paris1 ,london and ,berlin6 99 99 99 99 99 ,in the latest afternoon1 with coolness and rays of heat and light1 we rowed further along the coast to ,satapuala1 where we were to rest in the great guest-house1 under the protection of the chief's sister1 the taupo4#aa ,it was all like little ,nua on a great scale1 and with more elaborate preparations4 ,we had soft mats to lie upon and later more again to be beds4 ,nor did our hostess abandon us until the last moment1 when we were apparently satisfied with our lair1 and according to far-off western habits had officially 8retired40 ,her decoration of the guest-house1 for which she duly apologized as poor and unworthy of our visit1 was really beautiful4 ,palm branches all green and fresh and glistening covered the entire roof and its supports1 even the great curved posts of the centre being wrapped in the great leaves1 which curved with new lines around the simpler circle of the big tree trunks4 ,here and there great bunches of white gardenia and of the red hibiscus were fastened into the folds and interstices of the leaves and stems4 ,at night when her brother1 the young chief1 a famous dancer1 had arrived1 the dream of ,robinson ,crusoe which had begun enveloping me in the afterglow1 as ,i wandered about in the sandy spaces among the palms and bread-fruit1 became more and more complete4 ,the dances were all pictures of savage life4 ,there were dances of the hammer and of gathering the cocoanuts by climbing1 and then breaking them2 and of the war canoes1 with the urging of the steersman and the anxious paddling of the crew2 and a dance of the ,bath1 in which the woman splashed water over her pursuer1 as she moved with great stretching of arms as of swimming4 ,the beating of time on the mats gave1 in its precision of cadence and the sharpness of its sound1 an illusion that seemed to make real the great blows struck by the dancers1 whose muscles played in an ebb and tide1 under the brilliant light of the cocoanut fire made in the pit near the centre post4 ,in these and in others our hostess scarcely took part4 ,most of the time she sat by us--a tall and big chiefess1 elegant at a distance1 grave and disdainful--but we were in an enemy's country and the slight scorn seemed quite refined4 ,still more becoming to an evening with ,robinson ,crusoe's friends were the costumes worn in the wild dances3 the great girdles of purple and green and red leaves1 the red fruit of the necklaces1 the silver shells of red flower in the hair of the women2 the fierce military headdresses of the men2 the bark-cloth drapery moving in stiff folds1 and more than all the oiled limbs and bodies glancing against that wild background of green leaves 7spotted with red and white71 whose reflections glittered like molten silver as they turned around posts and central pillars4 ,outside1 the moonlight was of milky whiteness increased by the whiteness of the sandy beach mixed with a firm white clay4 ,upon this the sea made a faint wash of no colour1 in which floated our white boats and the reflections of the silvery clouds that deepened all the sky to seaward outside of the white reef4 ,late in the evening of our arrival we crossed over the little village green1 which is studded with houses and groups of trees1 each house1 each mass of foliage set apart1 either high on some mound to which steps may lead1 or upon a slightly swelling rise1 as if in some park1 some pleasure garden where all had been thought of and gradually arranged4 ,and so1 ,i suppose1 it has been here in all the centuries that have been spent in moulding this littlest village into a shape to suit its people1 their needs1 their comforts or their likings4 ,and that must be partly the cause of the recall of artistic success and perfection in this rustic scene4 ,all has taken as much time ,illustration3 ,,swimming ,,dance1 ,,samoa and attention as the most complicated ,european mass of buildings1 be they cathedrals or palaces--only the art has little shape but what nature gives it4 ,all the more has nature caressed and embellished and favoured this elemental1 unconscious attempt of man4 ,in the end of the long twilight1 with the rose colour still floating in the upper sky1 the little place looked more coquettishly refined than ever4 ,here and there the lights within the huts1 often rising and falling in intensity with the blaze of the cocoanut fire1 modelled the steps outside or the posts1 touched trees and branches far away or near1 and made pictures of family groups within1 garlanded and flower adorned4 ,the larger house to which we went was adorned with flowers and all lit up4 ,more people were crowded in it than the little village contained2 for the island had sent visitors and performers for the dances which were to entertain us4 ,i shall not describe them4 ,but they were of course interesting1 not only for what one liked but for what one did not like1 and for our being with others who looked on4 ,the spectators are inevitably part of yourself1 as of the show1 and in so far1 the very way in which ,i looked on was a new charm4 ,there was among the dancers a young chief1 serious as an ,indian prince1 who danced gymnastics1 and ended with primitive buffoonery that seemed to delight his hearers4 ,at the other end of the scale was a hunchback dwarf1 who played realistic scenes so well as to be repulsive4 ,but all this was a lesson4 ,i shall certainly see all about me1 in this form of civilization necessitating health and strength1 or their appearance1 a great line drawn between those who suffer or are weak1 and those who are not--a visible line4 ,as yet there is no place for my hunchback's intelligence1 except this buffoonery4 ,later we left the dancers and wandered in wide moonlit paths among banana trees4 ,there we came across our young chief looking now as if such a person never could have so demeaned himself1 even from political reasons4 ,we exchanged alofas and compliments1 and he placed his garlands in sympathy around my neck4 ,he is a beauty1 and his father is one of the tallest and biggest1 as was his sister1 who was once taupo4 ,this morning ,i have wandered with ,seumanu for a few miles1 to show ourselves4 ,we pass other villages where we are greeted1 and where at one time our yesterday's friend1 the old tulafale1 canters out of his house in a circle1 according to ancient fashion4 ,we see a great war canoe under its shed1 and the remains of a high wall that encircles the island and was an old protection in war4 ,much should ,i like to remain1 but we shall have to go at once1 for--as ,i feared--we are not here really for pleasure1 but we are entangled in the quasi-necessary political advantages of being seen where there is 8influence40 ,but this1 ,i feel1 is the kind of place ,i want to see--out of the way--out of use--where usages linger1 and where the landscape is influenced by man so as to become a frame2 as it was in little ,nua on the island of ,tutuila where we first landed upon our first morning in the ,south ,seas4 ,for a thousand years1 probably two thousand1 perhaps three--for an indefinite period--these people of this smallest island have lived here and modified nature1 while its agencies have as steadily and gently covered again their work4 ,so that everything is natural1 and everywhere one is vaguely conscious of man4 ,hence1 of any place that ,i have seen1 this is the nearest to the idyllic pastoral2 it is not so beautiful as it is complete4 ,iva in ,savaii1 ,oct4 #bf1 '#ij4 ,i am writing in early afternoon1 a hot afternoon1 after a morning at sea4 ,opposite me in the circular ,samoan house are a couple of persons of importance1 a local governor1 some four or five chiefs1 all ranged against the pillars of the building1 as ,i too am leaning against one4 ,seumanu and some of our acquaintances are to one side2 opposite me1 a grave young girl is moving her hands in the great kava bowl from which she hands the strainer of bark filaments to a reddened haired young man whose head flames in the sun outside1 against the background of green banana leaves4 ,next her a big fellow keeps grating more kava2 and another fills the big bowl with water1 making big red spaces in the reflection of the sunlight1 that streams in on that side4 ,small parcels of presents of food have been brought in and lie about on their side4 ,much kava has already been drunk and more is being prepared as more and more chiefs come in4 ,everything except the picture before me is in shade4 ,conversation1 probably politics1 is going on slowly1 in the usual low tones1 with an occasional high-voiced interjection from some less important member4 ,the village orator1 with his fly-brush over his shoulder1 has long ago made his lengthy speech of welcome1 and as we are told to do as we please ,i write to you1 in the interval of watching the faces of the men1 or the circular movement of the girl's hands dipping in the big bowl1 or running around its wide rim1 when she wipes it1 before passing the strainer to be squeezed out4 ,the orator watches me suspiciously occasionally1 but there is general confidence and peace1 that we much need1 for the heat is great and our sea trip was rough and hot4 ,as ,i write1 ,i hear my name ,la ,fael called out1 and the kava bearer comes to me with the usual swing4 ,but ,i fear the kava1 and merely accept the bowl and return it undrunk according to form4 ,then many of the circle disappear--to church--the bell is ringing and little children half-naked1 small creatures toddling along are already in the doorway2 apparently all the neighbourhood are beginning to file toward it gravely1 most of the women with hats that do not become them4 ,even a little girl-child1 with nothing but a band around her little fat waist for a drapery1 steps along with difficulty1 a big hat on her head4 ,this is ,sunday conventionality3 all the congregation are dressed1 even the half-naked chiefs1 who had left us1 reappear from their huts1 with white jackets1 and pass on gravely in the procession at a distance4 ,and the ,sunday hymns add to the drowsiness of the ,sunday afternoon4 ,this morning when we left the little island of ,manono1 some five or six miles away1 people were going to church but to a different call from that of this absurd little bell4 ,a big war drum1 a long cylinder of tree cut lengthwise1 was beaten in the oldest1 most primitive manner1 some way as ancient as man himself4 ,a man bent down over this big wooden trough1 that lay like an old log in the grass1 and beat it from the inside1 with one of the big hard stones that lay in it4 ,the sound was unearthly1 ,i ought to say uncanny1 and nothing more savage1 more a type of the war of the savage could be imagined2 and it seemed fitting that this war usage1 turned now to the call of ,divine ,peace1 should still remain in the warlike little island1 once the petty tyrant of the little group4 ,right alongside1 near the great wall built for war1 whose remains surround the island1 marks of destruction recalled the exploits of the ,german warship ,adler1 that now lies stranded by the great hurricane1 in ,apia harbour1 and whose crew were saved in part by the people they were killing1 and especially by the brave giant1 in whose boat we have been travelling4 ,indeed1 there was an element of comedy quite ,polynesian1 even if atrocious1 in the danger the ,samoan rescuers ran of being fired at from the beach while they saved their enemies in the sea4 ,but we made the first part of our trip to-day1 in a native boat1 for ,seumanu's was rather too fine1 and too heavy to be risked in the entering of the curious harbour that we first made4 ,this was ,apolima1 8the open hand0--a small1 very small island about a mile out from ,manono2 the upper part of a submerged volcano cone1 broken down on one side1 so that there is an entrance4 ,we soon reached the great wall of soft brown rock1 which crowned with cocoanut palms and half covered with vegetation opens suddenly1 leaving a small passage through rocks1 just wide enough for our boat1 skilfully paddled in the great blue wave that swung us in4 ,then jumping out1 half of our men caught the side of the boat1 to prevent our being dragged back by the returning swell1 and we were pushed and dragged around a corner inside of the rocks4 ,the tide was low and we were carried ashore on the men's backs1 through coral rocks that spotted the floor of the small lagoon inside4 ,the place was just what you might imagine2 a little amphitheatre of green1 the high reddish rocks standing on each side at the entrance1 and between them1 a great bank of rock1 over which the surf broke so as to hide the little break through which we had come4 ,as we looked1 three great palms stood up against this distance1 planted on the higher ground that is all green1 and leaning toward the sea as is their 7loving7 habit4 ,huts stood about with bread-fruit trees1 and further back we were led to a little pool that supplied the place with scant water4 ,further back yet1 the slope was all covered with trees1 and after walking a little way1 slipping along the greasy banks1 and walking up the sloping timber notched with cuts to make stairs1 and returning by another that made a level bridge across an empty channel1 ,i sat down to wait for ,mr4 ,sewall1 who had walked up to the ridge1 and ,i had time to make a sketch4 ,all this took us a little more than a couple of hours while ,seumanu's boat was beating outside1 in a fair ,n4 ,e4 wind4 ,at last we were paddled out in the great wave that washed in and out1 and with the swing that belongs to the balancing of a boat in a narrow tide-way4 ,and we kept in the dance until we reached ,seumanu's boat1 invisible for some minutes behind the blue waves4 ,then we ran alongside1 and we scrambled in1 exchanging good-byes--tofa--with the chief of the lost hand1 who had taken us thus far4 ,within the next hour ,seumanu's boat had come to the outer reef off ,savaii1 in front of the landing of ,iva4 ,but there we had to wait at anchor4 ,the water was too low inside the reef1 so that we remained in the thin blue-green tide1 that seemed to show everything in it1 until a smaller boat came out to us1 with ,selu1 the chief1 and we were taken in4 ,we landed among black rocks1 within a few feet of a little scanty road1 and clambering over a stile of rocks1 at some part of the long black fence of stones in front of us1 we found a village1 which spread higher up and far back behind the trees1 with spaces between houses2 banana1 palm and bread-fruit trees1 dispersed as if for ornament or making little patches of plantation4 ,there was a big church of the usual formless kind1 not as handsome as the thatched ones with circular ends1 that are certainly the types one would prefer4 ,and so we walked up to the house1 where we were to listen to speeches and the ,consul to make one4 ,since ,i have begun to write1 all has become more quiet1 and ,i shall merely use my afternoon to make a few notes2 we shall sleep in another house belonging to the ,governor and be near1 ,i think1 to the chief1 whose name is or was ,selu1 for lately he tells me that he has had the name of ,anai given him1 and we try to make out together just how near these changes come to the forms of the ,western world4 ,this is not a title properly1 but as it were a name embodying rights that go to descent2 for these men with titles apparently elective are noblemen who form an aristocracy of government and are usually to be distinguished externally by their size or manner as well as by little symbols or expressions of superiority4 ,anai tells me that of the many chiefs here1 whom we have seen or will see1 he and another1 alone are the 8political0 superiors1 as he expresses it2 that is to say1 he goes on1 that they alone talk in public about such matters 7,i suppose in the way of decision71 and that others would be checked if moving4 ,thus1 that to him and to his mate alone the making of war1 or as he expresses it1 the allowing the 8shedding of blood0 is devolved4 ,this chief is a most interesting and sympathetic person1 speaking ,english very well1 though apparently a little wanting in practice1 with a pleasant1 handsome face1 resembling some ,japanese types1 interested in missionary matters1 a strict church member1 and showing much interest in foreign matters throughout the world2 we talked of the civil war1 and of the prospects of the republic in ,france1 and of the universal 8striking0 now going on1 as we might anywhere2 and ,i am sure that ,anai was 8posted0 to a later date than we1 for the ,consul had handed to him the files of the ,herald for the last few months1 while we had almost entirely abstained from that indigestive form of reading4 ,anai has explained to us that this being ,sunday we shall have no reception1 but that to-morrow there will be a formal reception1 called talolo1 and giving of presents1 and that there will be dances4 ,so that we shall spend this evening quietly1 with a bath in the pool of fresh water1 that is open to the sea1 and try to rest4 ,on ,savaii1 ,oct4 #cj1 #ahij4 ,we are settled here for an uncertain time1 perhaps three days4 ,this is the political capital of ,samoa1 and we are occupying the house of the great orator of the islands1 important by his influence1 though not so great a chief as several others by descent or by control1 or even by physical superiority1 that great proof of eminence in communities like these1 where the chiefs seem to have reserved for themselves a size and weight that recall the idea of heroic days4 ,certainly the first time that ,i saw a well-chosen dozen together1 as ,i did two days ago at our last resting place1 all sitting spaced out1 as if for a decoration on a frieze1 silent and indifferent1 or speaking occasionally without raising their voices1 with heavy arms resting on great thighs1 and with the movement of neck and shoulders of men conscious of importance1 the recall of ,homeric story made me ask myself which one might be ,ajax1 and which the other1 and if such a one might do for ,agamemnon4 ,fine too1 as some of the heads were1 they were only relatively important1 as with the ,greek statues that we have1 and that we know quite well and intimately1 even though their heads be missing4 ,the whole body has had an external meaning1 has been used as ours is no longer1 to express a feeling or to maintain a reserve which we only look for in a face4 ,and as ,i am writing1 while the household is enjoying its evening relaxation and preparing for the night1 everything about me repeats to me this theme of all being done with the whole body4 ,about an hour ago prayers were said and all sat around while the regular form was repeated1 and then our young hostess prayed an extempore prayer commending us all to the care of ,god4 ,some words ,i can catch1 but the intonation is sufficient4 ,it is a prayer cadenced as well as the most consummate of clergymen could manage1 and repeated without the slightest hesitation4 ,then she stretched herself out1 with her head on the ,samoan pillow1 and talked with some young male acquaintance outside the hut whose head just appears over the barrier that runs between the pillars1 for our house is placed higher than usual4 ,she talked with ,adams who is lying by her1 and occasionally she criticises the game that is going on near her at that end of the house4 ,i have only followed the little things happening by fits and starts1 as ,i have made some sketches and have been writing letters1 but ,i make out that the household is playing some game in which some motion or gesture has to be duplicated or matched1 and that the beaten side1 for there are two rows of players1 is to dance as a forfeit4 ,i say that this is the household1 ,i mean that ,i take it for granted1 though ,i see that one of our boatmen is among them1 and that a couple of children have dropped in4 ,the duenna of our young lady is also there4 ,sometimes ,i see her and sometimes ,i do not1 but ,i know she is there on watch4 ,but a siva has been organized slowly1 a household unofficial siva1 begun in little patches--somebody humming something and several beating hands4 ,tunes or songs are taken up and discarded1 and sometimes a man1 sometimes a woman1 stands up to sketch some motions4 ,at last they appear to have got under way1 and ,i see them swing and dance1 with little clothing and much clapping of hands1 at the other end of the house4 ,and everybody joins in3 even the children beat time and take up the words--and the two elder women are the most enthusiastic and full of energy4 ,occasionally a burst of laughter salutes what ,i take to be a mistake or some wild caper that seems funny to them4 ,faauli1 at last1 after having pretended to sleep or to talk1 so as to appear to herself to have done something1 sits up and takes more interest4 ,by and by she sketches out some steps in an indolent manner--soon she begins in earnest1 and with one of the performers goes through an energetic dance1 slipping her upper clothing for greater ease4 ,the clapping and beating time comes fast and furious from every one1 and laughter and small shrieks replace the gentle monotone and seriousness of the evening prayer4 ,at last she sits down suddenly1 her face rather overcast3 7her name means 8,black ,cloud that ,comes up ,suddenly074 ,she has hurt her foot apparently1 for turning round to see why all has stopped1 ,i see her bent over and looking at a toe4 ,note that she does this as easily as a baby with us--her face comes down on her foot raised halfway to meet it4 ,as ,i come up1 she shows me that she has torn off the larger part of a nail1 and is paring off the remainder evenly against the exposed surface of flesh4 ,i offer her scissors which she uses with indifference1 as we might cut off superfluous hair2 and apparently more from politeness and obedience than from necessity1 she accepts my court-plaster4 ,then being properly mended1 she sits down to play cards while ,i resume my writing4 ,now here has been something that explains some sides of these good people2 an absence of nervousness and insensibility to pain--for to most of us such a small accident would have been very painful and sickening4 ,before this the dance had been merely an outlet for action1 as natural and unpremeditated as any other motion4 ,the entire body has been called into play3 from the ends of the fingers to the toes of the feet1 all the exterior muscles have been playing gently for some two hours1 with almost every person present1 whether they sat or stood4 ,this constant gentle exercise must go far toward giving the smooth even fullness that marks them4 ,and meanwhile1 too1 they have decorated themselves2 some one has brought out garlands1 and they have been worn3 flowers have been put in the hair1 as if to mark that this is not work but play4 ,and now that all is quiet1 ,i shall try to resume my itinerary1 and recall small matters that are fading away1 and becoming so confused from repetition that it requires an effort for me to distinguish this siva from that siva1 and to remember what taupo it was who danced well1 and what one it was who danced ill4 ,i was writing last in ,iva1 on our first day there1 ,sunday4 ,it is now ,thursday night4 ,monday morning at ,iva we were up early1 before the sunrise1 waked by the red glow of the dawn that calls one up easily from the hard bed of double mats laid on the floor of small stones4 ,every one was up1 people were moving about1 probably most had had their early bath1 for they were returning with wet clothes1 or with their garments spread over them like a veil4 ,so that we scrambled over the stone wall that seems so anomalous and unreasonable here4 ,but they not only divide village from village1 but also prevent the straying of that roaming property1 the pig1 that wanders about the village and the forest also1 picking up everything of course4 ,to see a pig picking out the flesh of the cocoanut has been one of the small amusements of this afternoon1 and last night1 besides the invariable dog1 pigs came into our house and snuffled at the faces of ,charlie and ,awoki1 who lay outside of the mosquito netting4 ,the path over the fences brought us to the bathing pool opening to the sea on one side only1 where among black rocks the fresh water runs up to meet the tide1 filling in the pool4 ,there we went in and swam about1 watched by many of the smaller villagers1 girls and boys who were curious about the manners of the white people4 ,and ,i was able to admire the skill1 though unable to rival it1 with which the native bathers draped themselves as they rose from the water1 so that man or woman was clothed as he or she stepped on shore4 ,by the time we returned1 our mosquito nettings had been put aside1 the mats swept out1 and ,awoki was bringing us the tea and brown bread1 which1 with such native food as we liked1 made our meals4 ,fish there was and yam and taro1 and some preparations of cocoanut4 ,and there were cocoanuts for their milk for which ,i do not care1 but there was no water yet1 the water in the two pools near the sea1 edged with black stones1 being blackish until the change of tide should leave the spring to fill up by itself4 ,then our host came in and told us that we might rest that morning3 that in the afternoon there would be a reception1 a sort of review or 8fantasia10 and presents of food would be given and speeches made1 and songs and dances1 the whole apparently included under the general title of the talolo which was to be given us4 ,so we waited peacefully2 ,i sketched the girls in the neighbouring house1 who were at work making the wreaths1 the garlands1 the complicated flower girdles that should be worn later in the day1 and perhaps at night1 for there were murmurs of a night siva4 ,but ,i knew that our host was a church member1 and that the siva is not encouraged1 neither the siva1 8fa ,samoa10 ,samoan way1 the ,samoan siva1 nor the siva of the ,europeans1 which we call round dancing2 for had not ,faatulia1 the wife of our leader1 ,seumanu1 been threatened with excommunication for dancing in her innocence in ,european ways at the ,consul's ,fourth of ,july ball4 ,meanwhile my models across the way in the shadow posed badly3 they were always moving1 or they came across the way to see what we ,illustration3 ,,soldiers ,,bringing ,,presents ,,of ,,food ,,in ,,military ,,order4 ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa were at4 ,for somebody would stop in and look at us1 and go give the news--a little pile of small boys and girls1 three rows deep1 sat respectfully under the bread-fruit trees watching us4 ,but somehow or other the morning wore away1 and by two o'clock we were told that all was ready1 and that we had better come to the house chosen for us to occupy during the ceremony4 ,meanwhile1 behind the trees that closed in the sight 7for the village was placed1 if ,i may so describe it1 in an irregular open grove of many kinds of trees71 we had seen for the last hour or so1 dressed-up figures moving about2 men with large green garlands1 and green cinctures around their waists stiffened out and made larger by great folds of new bark-cloth1 or by the fine wearing mats which are the most precious possession of the ,samoan3 some of them with guns carried with pride1 for these were men who had been victorious and had beaten off the bullying ,german4 ,and now we took our places in the circular house which looked like a pavilion1 and which stood on the east of the large open space near the church4 ,opposite us perhaps some two hundred feet or more was another house1 and others spread to right and left1 leaving a large space ending on one side near the church1 whose white faade had written on it its name1 ,lupeanoa1 ,noah's ,dove--enclosed by a little clump of trees to the left1 where we could see figures moving with great swaying of leaf girdles and waist-mats--and the occasional beat of a war-drum came from further back4 ,we were seated1 all facing toward the open space1 the next house filled with women and children3 ,seumanu and our host and other people of importance near us1 and the rest of the house packed1 but not too closely1 behind us4 ,out on the grass and near trees people sat1 mostly women4 ,others moved slowly to take their places1 showing some vestiges of yesterday's ,sunday in their hats and long gowns4 ,then rushed across them a man all blacked1 with a high white turban bound to his head1 with green strips of leaves1 a few leaves for a girdle1 and waving a paddle4 ,this was a friend of ,seu's--a funny man and joker1 with a hand maimed or deformed--the deformed in such communities take things gayly and are jokers4 ,he shrieked out things that caused shouts of laughter1 and repeated 8,alofa ,atamo60 ,from behind the church came out a mass of warriors1 with banana leaves in their hair1 and wearing girdles of the long green leaves of the ti3 their backs were streaked with white lines following the spine and the ribs1 and their faces and bodies were blacked4 ,they carried their rifles high and discharged them into the air1 then cantered past and away4 ,again the buffoon and again the warriors4 ,meanwhile in the distance1 in the opening of trees1 we could ,illustration3 ,,taupo ,,and ,,attendants ,,dancing ,,in ,,open ,,air4 ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa see other warriors3 behind them the drum and the little fife made a curious war music1 and a peculiar shout and call with a short cadence came from the men4 ,unconcernedly a girl moved across the opening in front1 intent on something else1 and a hunch-backed dwarf1 with enormous wide shoulders and long legs edged with green leaves1 came to us and shouted 8alofa60 ,then six warriors again emerged from the grove1 swinging their clubs1 and marched back leaving the green space before us empty and silent4 ,slowly now1 moving step by step1 the mass of people behind the trees came out1 so that they could be seen4 ,in front of the men and of the music a girl1 with black1 shaggy waist garment1 like thin fur1 with long red necklaces of beads1 and flowers in her hair1 danced slowly to the tune1 crossing and uncrossing her feet in a hopping step1 and swinging with both hands a slight club in front of her1 as a drum major might move his stick4 ,slowly she advanced1 escorted by two men clad in mats and garlands1 upon whose heads stood out a mass of yellow hair1 like the cap of a grenadier1 supported by circles of shells around the forehead4 ,they also kept time to the music1 but did not repeat the girl's monotonous step that made the central point of interest to which the eye always returned4 ,this girl was the taupo1 the virgin of the village1 dancing and marching in her official place at the head of the warriors--like ,taillefer1 the ,norman minstrel who began the battle of ,hastings4 ,when she had moved slowly a few yards1 one could see that behind in the crowd there were two other girls representing other villages1 who also repeated these movements1 while some of the men danced and others stepped slowly with crossed arms1 holding their clubs and muskets4 ,and the virgin danced forward and passed1 and then up the slope toward us1 followed by the other girls1 and all saluted us2 when the whole assembly in the field came up suddenly and threw down before us leaf baskets containing taro and yams1 and cooked things wrapped up in leaves1 and fish1 and a number of little sucking pigs1 with hind legs tied1 that struggled up and down in the heaps of leaves4 ,as each person threw his load down he stalked away gravely and took a seat somewhere in the distance4 ,all became silent4 ,i could see the taupos moving off with that peculiar walk of the dancer who is resting4 ,a warrior with high white turban of bark cloth sat down against a tree near us1 without looking to the right or left1 his gun against his shoulder1 and smoked gravely1 while a girl1 his daughter perhaps1 leaned affectionately against him4 ,meanwhile the sucking pigs had been escaping with hind-legs tied1 and every now and then ,charlie pulled them back into place4 ,illustration3 ,,presentation ,,of ,,gifts ,,of ,,food ,,at ,,iva1 ,,in ,,savaii1 ,,samoa ,then rose the orator1 the tulafale1 from the centre of the three rows of men now seated opposite to us1 across the green space1 and from two hundred feet away1 addressed us slowly as he leaned upon his stick1 and seemed not to raise his voice beyond what was absolute necessity4 ,but the cadence always rose in the last words1 so that the effect to the ear was of a distinct1 emphatic assertion4 ,then he added1 8,this is all10 and sat down1 apparently inattentive and indifferent4 ,our turn came next4 ,anai1 the chief1 translated to us the usual speech of great gratitude to ,america for having saved them from slavery and from the ,germans1 and compliments to us all1 with prayers to ,god to have us in his holy keeping4 ,then a few things were suggested between us1 and our political man said what was necessary1 and alas1 even more3 for how can the ,united ,states promise anything--that may depend on sugar--or an election1 or at any rate is merely a matter of barter8 ,anai stepped out from the house and repeated all this in ,samoan1 speaking also quite gently1 with little raising of the voice4 ,nobody seemed to listen1 nobody to care1 but this was only apparent4 ,all heard and had listened4 ,then our own men1 who had been hidden somewhere1 sprang upon the presents and sorted them3 one of them stood up and called them out3 so much of this1 so much of that1 to give full acknowledgment for liberality4 ,then another spring1 and all was carried away1 even to the struggling1 sucking pigs that could not be made to understand4 ,momentary peace settled over everything1 and we had begun to ask questions and to sketch1 when we were told that now we should have a siva1 that several villages would appear in it by their performers1 as they had appeared in the military display4 ,men came up garlanded and cinctured in flowers and leaves1 and sat down in double rows before us1 some turning toward us1 others away4 ,out of their number first one1 then others arose and sat down again in order1 fronting us1 and the siva began2 six handsome young men1 singing and swaying about upon their hips1 to a chant for which time was beaten behind them4 ,the sun was setting2 tired out and amused we walked back in the crowd1 stopping to exchange alofas with belated warriors who showed us their guns and occasional wounds1 which with the ,samoan idea of a joke they pretended had been caused by running against wire fences4 ,we had seen for the first time a pageantry of savage war1 in a soft light1 in the most peaceful and idyllic of landscapes1 so that it was hard to realize again that this was not all a theatre scene1 a fte champtre--a play in the open air4 ,there was nothing to contradict this unreality but the marks of ugly gashes on the arms and chests of the men and the ,illustration3 ,,south ,,sea ,,seated ,,dance ,,at ,,night1 ,,samoa recall of the savage melody1 which was undeniably a war song1 requiring no explanation as to its meaning4 ,in the house we ate our meal spread out on banana leaves1 two of the taupos coming in to help us by breaking the taro and yams1 and tearing the fish and fowls4 ,then while wishing for nothing but bed and rest1 and closed eyes1 we were told that there would be a night siva in our honour1 and that other taupos would figure in it4 ,there was nothing to do but yield1 and with each a taupo to accompany us1 we went back to the house that we had occupied in the afternoon4 ,it was already half filled with people1 occupying one side of it4 ,i sat down against an outside post1 alongside of my taupo1 next to whom ,seumanu reclined at length with another girl1 an old acquaintance1 near him1 and ,i tried to keep awake while the siva went on enthusiastically4 ,at times ,i would start with some new figure or more picturesque effect1 or when fresh fuel was added to the cocoanut fire that fit the scene within4 ,along the posts of the exterior sat chiefs watching the dance3 behind them outside1 a crowd of people in the moonlight1 and many heads of youngsters4 ,occasionally a chief would say1 8,some one a cigarette or a light10 and a boy darted into the house through the dancers1 plunged for the light1 and returned with it to the great man who had asked4 ,when the taupos1 big and good natured1 had danced1 we drowsily asked them to sit alongside of us1 while the siva of the men went on4 ,between two1 as ,i became more and more sleepy1 ,i was fortunate in finding comfort and support from my first neighbour1 against whose big shoulder ,i reclined1 my arm supported upon the weight of her knees--all mine might have been thrown upon her massive form without apparent inconvenience4 ,a gentle tap now and then1 and a gentle alofa told me that ,i was all right1 and could go to sleep while making believe to look on4 ,but the girls1 drowsy as they were1 were appreciative of the men's dances1 and so was ,seu1 who called out over and over again1 mlie 7bravo7 as if he had not seen thousands of sivas1 which now1 having become 8missionary10 he does not attend4 ,i knew that ,i was interested in the intervals of sleep1 but all has faded into a sort of disconnected dream4 ,i can only remember getting out into the bright moonlight1 and that it made a silver haze outside during the dances4 ,we had been obliged toward midnight to make a speech1 with thanks1 protesting the fatigue of travel as an excuse for not remaining4 ,the ,samoans will sit up all night1 especially in their favourite moonlight3 they can sleep during the day1 and apparently always do so4 ,around our house1 until we had blown out the light1 and even for some time after1 rows of people sat watching us in the light of the moon3 the people sauntered about1 or sat in the shade of the trees1 with sharp-edged leaves that made the scene look1 as usual1 like the stage-setting of a fairy opera4 99 99 99 99 99 ,the next morning we were to leave for the next important place1 ,sapapali1 the home of the ,malietoa1 the princes who have been for a long time the principal chiefs of these islands1 and who are now represented by the present king4 ,this is a rude definition2 as ,i have told you elsewhere1 the question of chiefhood and sovereignty here is one not easily represented or defined by our words4 ,at ,sapapali1 the ancestral home1 we should be received by ,aig1 the ,king's niece1 and consequently a young person of the highest rank1 indeed1 ,i suppose the greatest lady of the land4 ,with us this would be the ,queen or the ,royal ,princess1 or the heir to the throne4 ,but here blood and descent are all and in the direct line4 ,this young person was next to ,malietoa as being of sufficient blood4 ,our arrival was to happen about noon1 so that1 as in ,samoan phrase1 it was only about half an hour's walk1 we were to leave punctually at ten o'clock4 ,early rising took us again to the black pool surrounded by high trees1 where two of us bathed1 watched and escorted by two little damsels with whom the other one of us flirted4 ,i myself was too much occupied with the difficult question of keeping on1 while swimming1 the fathom of cloth they call lavalava2 and afterward of adjusting it in the water1 after swimming for it when it had floated away1 and then on coming out1 receiving dry cloth with one hand and putting off the wet one4 ,but ,i found out how one begins in the corner4 ,later in the morning it had grown hot1 as we left pretty ,iva1 and made our way through broad or narrow roads1 to ,sapapali4 ,the old difficulty again amused me2 we could not walk in proper ,samoan order2 sometimes one of us1 sometimes another was in front1 while properly1 all of us chiefs should have led1 and the attendants followed at respectful distances4 ,so that again ,awoki would canter on in front of the chiefs3 meanwhile ,anai told us things of local information1 pointing out where the road narrowed1 the place where had stood in older times1 a famous tree1 a cocoanut4 ,among its branches the ,malietoa1 who first became converted later to ,christianity1 used to conceal himself and lasso or noose such pretty taupos or maidens as passing might strike his fancy4 ,one of these had been the grandmother of the young lady whom we were going to visit4 ,while the party talked the scandal over ,i remained a while by a deep well near the shore1 and watched a handsome ,samoan ride his horse barebacked to the water1 to the sand and distant trees of a little promontory4 ,when ,i hurried forward1 the party had gone far ahead1 and had arrived before me4 ,i crossed the rocky bed of a dry river1 upon whose edge stood houses1 and going up the hill before me1 came upon a high open space with trees far scattered1 and several large black tombs made of stones piled together in regular rectangular form2 and in the centre of the green a house high-placed which instinct told me was the guest-house1 our destination4 ,part of the mat curtains were down opposite the central posts3 ,i entered by the open side1 and saw ,adams and the ,consul seated next to a young woman in half ,european dress 7that is to say with a corsage72 and on the other side of her ,seumanu and ,anai4 ,i entered and sat down with some hesitation next to the ,consul1 and after being presented to her ladyship looked about me4 ,opposite1 the posts of the pretty house all adorned with flowers had each a chief1 as a sort of sitting caryatid or buttress4 ,and they were big and splendid2 that was the ,greek frieze of which ,i was telling you4 ,between each massive figure1 of ,ajax and ,nestor and ,ulysses and ,agamemnon1 appeared from time to time some little boy1 whose small person made them look more ample1 as the boys or angels of ,michael ,angelo's ,sistine ,chapel make sibyls and prophets look more colossal by comparison4 ,then kava was brought in and made solemnly1 when in stepped a woman and sat herself beside the kava attendant who dried the wisp4 ,a moment later1 and her presence was explained4 ,she1 it appears1 had the hereditary right to 8divide the kava10 and had come to claim it4 ,when the heavy clapping of hands announced that the drink was ready1 she called out the name of ,aig1 to whom the first bowl was presented as to the greatest personage4 ,then to one of the guests1 then to the next relative of the ,malietoa1 then to a guest1 then to a chief1 and so on1 contrariwise to what we had seen before1 where we as guests were helped first4 ,you see we were at court1 in the presence of royalty4 ,when the ceremonies were over1 we chatted with ,aig1 who spoke ,english1 and whose amiability pleased me4 ,she was embarrassed and shy1 and struggled like some girl1 unaccustomed to society1 to say some proper things4 ,but the grace of her diffidence was all the greater when one noticed the security of position indicated by her voice when speaking in a low distinct tone to others4 ,at length we rose and adjourned to the neighbouring house1 where the feast had been set forth4 ,this we were allowed to dispense with under plea of a late breakfast1 but for form's sake we looked at each separate thing1 spread out in a long line of ,samoan good fare1 on green banana leaves that stretched across the house4 ,then we papalagi1 7foreigners71 returned to a ,western soup kindly prepared by ,aig1 and our own bread and tea1 and sardines1 in which fare ,aig joined1 and talked to us and we to her1 all stretched at full length upon the mats4 ,then our lady disappeared with some little show of embarrassment1 and had ,i known how much it cost her1 ,i should have sympathized with her sooner in the annoyance of her having to prepare her toilette for the great official reception 7talolo71 which was to be the next function of the afternoon--the nearest house was the scene of the dressing of herself and her maidens4 ,through the dropped mats of the openings1 girls and women kept plunging in and out1 carrying in dress mats1 and beads and garlands of flowers1 and entangled1 complicated cinctures and belts of fruits and flowers1 and woven bark--and bringing out the news of how the dresses looked to the loungers sitting at a distance outside4 ,and once ,i saw carried in a fierce1 cruel headgear that our lady was to wear2 the great helmet of blond hair1 set with sparkling mirrors and tall filaments1 to be bound tight with silvery shells around an aching head4 ,then we went out to sit and wait on the other side of our guest-house1 in the shade toward the sea1 while long shadows covered the great space1 and the sun itself became veiled and lit the scene with a tempered light more like that of our northern summer4 ,one might almost have imagined an afternoon in some favoured1 more poetic point in our coast at home1 say ,newport on some exceptional evening4 ,the great mlie spread out further than the reserved ground of any of our residences1 and its edge dropped suddenly to the sea before us4 ,once or twice a thatched house stood on the verge of this rolling green1 all carefully smoothed and weeded like a lawn4 ,to the left and right were small groves like the wings of a theatre4 ,far off to one side curved the bay1 with palm trees stepping gradually into the sunlight4 ,the sea was blue and green before us1 and faintly shining2 far off in the haze of sunlight were ,upolu and ,apolima--spots of blue4 ,nothing broke this space to the furthest dim horizon1 except where on the edge of the cliffs stood one hut through which shone the colour of the sea and the foliage of the tree overshadowing it4 ,then our party came up and sat about us on the slope of the grass about the house1 and from the groves about us came the sounds of the drum-beat and the call of war music4 ,from behind the house1 in a great circle1 ran out in a sort of dance1 our hostess in full gala costume3 naked to the waist1 kilted with costly mats held on by flower girdles--on her head the great military cap4 ,she held a little toy club in her hand2 on either side1 with heavier strides1 two of the giants1 her attendant chiefs1 dressed and undressed in the same way1 repeated her movements4 ,some thirty paces behind her1 two of her maidens followed these leaders1 turning round in a great circle of dance1 spreading out their arms1 and the wide folds of their waist-cloths1 and the lines of their garlands were flung out by ,illustration3 ,,aitutagata4 ,,the ,,hereditary ,,assassins ,,of ,,king ,,malietoa4 ,,sapapali1 ,,savaii1 ,,samoa their motion4 ,in and out of the little grove danced back and forth a crowd of armed men1 who threw up their clubs and caught them again4 ,right in the middle of the green before us1 threading their path between the princess and her girls1 crouching to the ground1 crawled or ran1 bending low1 three men1 all blackened1 with green cinctures of leaves wound round their heads1 and short tails of white bark hanging down out of their girdles4 ,these were the king's 8murderers10 relics of a bygone time when savage chiefs1 like ,european sovereigns1 used licensed crime to rid themselves of enemies--or friends--against whom they could not wage open war4 ,these whom we saw were only on parade4 ,all this served but to recall a former power and its historical descent4 ,but the ancestors of these official murderers of hereditary ancestry had been actively employed4 ,at the whispered word of the chief they tracked the destined victim1 risking their lives in the attack1 and plunged into him their peculiar weapon1 the foto1 the barb of the ,sting ,ray1 which breaking in the wound and poisonous withal1 meant inevitable death4 ,they were called1 as ,i make out1 ,aitutagata 7,devil people74 ,the display lasted but a short time2 hardly more than a few circlings by ,aig and her people1 then on a sudden all seemed to come up about us1 and the assemblage broke up into groups4 ,aig bore with apparent confusion our compliments4 ,she was anxious to get away4 ,there was something inextricably touching in the case of this bashful young person--indoctrinated with our ideas to some extent--apparently realizing how we looked upon the scene1 how different her dress and actions from those of her white friends and sisters1 and yet carrying it all out to suit her position of princess and hostess2 what was due to us1 and to the traditions of her race4 ,with evening came the need of change1 and ,i wandered down to the unfinished church begun by the ,malietoa1 of whom ,i told you4 ,the massive foundations of coral rock1 against which the tide was washing1 are finished1 as well as part of the walls of the church4 ,in front is a little island1 planted with trees3 to the left1 at once rocks and high trees2 on the right1 the surf broke again in a little cove with houses and palm trees1 standing high against the setting sun4 ,far off the point1 the outline of ,apolima1 more than ever like a submerged volcano cone1 and the long white line of the surf2 and near me1 almost under me1 a dark moving space in the water1 where the tide washed more uneasily1 the submerged tomb of a woman called ,siga 7white71 a former wife of ,seumanu4 ,there was something that made one dream1 in this grave1 now remembered1 now forgotten1 a reminder that all memory can ,illustration3 ,,buttresses ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,christian ,,church ,,and ,,tomb ,,of ,,siga ,,in ,,the ,,reef4 ,,sapapali1 ,,samoa be but temporary1 and that the real end is where all ends and is forgotten1 and where1 as the ,spaniard says1 8,dios empiezo40 ,i sat and sketched a little1 seated on the great foundation4 ,children and women crowded around1 and climbed up the space in front1 where the great steps should have been1 and filed all around the projecting edge that runs about the church4 ,when ,i had done ,i rose1 and turning the corner of the narrow ledge1 found that ,i had made a group of frightened prisoners4 ,then ,i went to the deep pool near by1 where the sea runs into the little fresh water1 and was smiled at by the good-natured face1 just being washed1 of one of the murderers by inheritance1 who had figured all blackened that afternoon1 with green leaves and a white hanging tail4 ,his wickedness was being washed off with his blacking3 or rather1 his wickedness was all archological1 kept up as a proof of the former dignity and power of the chief1 and of the obedience of his men4 ,for these people seem never to have been grossly wicked or cruel2 as ,i told you1 they were not cannibals or whatever they had that way1 ages ago1 was condemned as bad4 ,they have even been unwilling to exterminate their enemies in their many wars3 and when they could put an end to the ,german1 in this last war1 they stopped their killing the moment the enemy was beaten1 as they imagined4 ,an element of strong good nature seems to persist at the bottom of their character4 ,that evening we had a siva1 like other sivas1 which ,i am unable to describe1 because ,i was so sleepy that my memory has not held over4 ,i lurked in the dark1 behind our hostess1 who did not dance4 ,her missionary training and her position were against it1 ,i suppose1 but also1 perhaps1 she did not dance well1 or as well as others4 ,afterward she lingered with us1 in the late evening1 as did the taupo who had danced4 ,with them were her two girls1 attendants1 and one or two of the elder women1 along with some of our men who acted as chorus4 ,then 8quelque diable le poussant10 nothing would do for one of our own party but that he should tease and beg for a dance with more undressing4 ,the older women seemed to enjoy the notion1 which reminded them1 perhaps1 of old days when they were able to be naughty1 and had performed all sorts of antics late at night1 when the elders and the great people were gone to bed4 ,so gradually1 from one dance to another1 we came to one in which the performers disrobe entirely for a moment1 using some words that represent and lay claim to the same beauty which the ,venus of ,naples1 she whom we call ,venus ,callipyge1 attempts to look at1 and certainly shows4 ,but it was all innocent and childish--the taupo danced it1 and the young girls accompanied her with one older woman--and ,aig laughed and was amused1 but hid away behind us1 ashamed4 ,then we made her dance for ,illustration3 ,,practising ,,the ,,seated ,,dance ,,at ,,night4 ,,samoa a moment the usual dance1 ,i say we1 but it was not ,i--and as she seemed to think that even that was dreadful enough--we parted with some discomfort4 ,i foresaw trouble1 but whether our fair friend was not as much annoyed by the relentless compliments paid to the beauty of others1 is more than ,i can make out1 being a man4 ,in the morning we trotted off a few miles1 to this present place ,sapotulafai1 the headquarters of the great orator1 and which is the great political centre4 ,we had a great dinner1 at which ,i sat next to the taupo of the adjacent village1 a giantess1 whose name is not insignificant1 though people here are not apparently named1 any more than are people anywhere else1 by name to suit them4 ,charlie interpreted her name for me saying1 8,when you are on top of a cocoanut1 and the wind blows hard1 and you are afraid of falling off1 that is ,lilia40 ,you have seen a palm tree in a gale1 and you can imagine the picturesqueness of this definition of fear1 in the wild swinging of the waves of the branches4 ,we had a siva in the afternoon1 when a young chief danced with the taupo of his village1 to whom he is engaged3 ,she gave him some occasional affectionate whacks of reproof at some remarks that distance did not make clear2 and we had a great 8talolo0 with the speech of the great tulafale of ,samoa1 and then a return speech1 which was listened to with some curiosity4 ,some devil inspired me to urge our representative speech-maker to discuss the severe and mistaken view of dancing taken up by the missionaries--,i mean the brown clergy4 ,they had done all sorts of good1 but they were crowding too much out in their zeal1 and the white missionaries were not so excessive--and so forth4 ,and ,adams had made a remark that seems to me a deep one4 ,something more is needed for these people of few occupations4 ,if they are to live to-day they are destined to a putting aside of the excitement of their little wars1 and they need some outlet in games that exercise them1 and keep up their appreciation of physical life and excellence4 ,anyhow1 these views were launched out at a risk1 and in a few days1 without a doubt1 will have gone all around ,samoa4 ,my own reason was a nearer one4 ,it grieved me to think that ,aig should risk her church position1 because she was polite according to ,samoan etiquette1 and that the other girls1 who did the same1 to wit1 gave us dances1 at the request of their fathers and superiors1 should be placed between divided duties4 ,this had been an oppression to the mind ever since we came2 and perhaps after all1 we may have done well4 ,in the evening1 our own taupo1 ,faauli the daughter of the orator1 gave us a siva2 she danced1 and danced well1 and so did ,lilia1 the daughter of a great chief1 a ,catholic1 and then we had the other taupo1 who danced again with the young chief to whom she was engaged4 ,his dance was certainly amusing to the imagination4 ,the chorus was singing about himself1 in his honour1 and he performed the steps1 if ,i may so express it4 ,he and another with red girdles and black1 furry loin-cloths1 and red leaves in the hair1 and red bead necklaces1 danced with the taupo herself1 dressed all in red and purple leaves4 ,the dances were a dance of the hammer1 and the dance of the cocoanut1 and in the glitter of the palm-fire1 the ballet of our fairy opera4 ,and satiated with dances ,i have tried to be quiet and to sketch until now4 ,oct4 #cjth4 ,we shall leave to-morrow4 ,i feel tired1 a little saddened2 ,i suspect that sleeping on the floors at night1 in draughts from the back-country1 and wandering occasionally1 in the midday1 among the hot thickets1 may have given me some little fever4 ,the ,german manager of one of the plantations was telling me a little while ago that there was danger in this1 though nothing like what he had seen in other countries4 ,on that account1 he had lifted the flooring of the houses1 built for his men1 ,solomon or ,marshall islanders1 whose health was of course of importance to him1 during their contract time4 ,after all this care1 they will be taken back1 perhaps1 to the wrong place1 and ,i suppose1 eaten by their fellows1 if they happen to land on the wrong spot1 or at some neighbouring village4 99 99 99 99 99 ,this afternoon we went to ,sapapali1 to take leave of ,aig who had been so kind to us1 and who seemed almost hurt at our not remaining4 ,we found her apparently sad and troubled1 and ,i regretted that we had been accompanied by the other ,taupos of our locality4 ,not that they were not kept in their places by the greater lady1 for this rather timid and amiable person knows perfectly well how to speak to people who are socially below her1 and nothing has interested me more than her various shades of inflection in addressing others4 ,but something has evidently annoyed her1 whether the break with the church on account of the siva1 or her girls having been indiscreet1 or her having made some mistake that ,i do not exactly understand4 ,she was much teased by one of us about some 8tendresse de cur10 and that may have annoyed her4 ,and the praise given to her little girls1 and an attempt to get them away from her control may not have been pleasant4 ,when ,i had seen the rest of the company pass by my sketching place1 and ,i knew that the visit was over1 ,i went back alone to her house and found her among her girls prostrate and in tears4 ,but she came out to me1 so as to be alone1 and she spoke as if we should misjudge her from ,sunday-school views and not understand that her parade at the head of her warriors1 all undressed1 was an official duty to us4 ,and then bade me sweetly good-bye--and but a moment ago my curtain mats have been pushed aside by a messenger who has come all this way at night to bring me flowers from her4 ,so that ,i am not in cause3 ,i leave it to you to read4 ,i feel almost as if what ,i were writing to you were indiscreet enough4 ,remember that there is little privacy here1 and that the houses are half open1 so that one may almost rush in4 ,in fact1 were it not for the complication of human nature1 ,i cannot see how there could be any privacy4 ,there is privacy somehow or other1 but not in our way4 ,outside the house there may be ways of saying things1 inside and out there are dictionaries of signs1 but they all have the most wonderful way of hearing1 and there are always eyes everywhere4 ,i have remarked that since ,i have cultivated the habit of sitting on the ground1 ,i see more of everything1 and ,i seem to be able to watch more easily4 ,but1 as ,i said1 privacy is relative3 nothing has struck me as more ,samoan than an elopement which ,i almost witnessed4 ,the young woman ran away with some young man1 along the beach1 in the presence of hundreds of people who1 it is true1 were not exactly watching her4 ,she was just as publicly caught and brought back1 cuffed sufficiently and scolded by her older sister1 and ,i see her occasionally1 in a neighbour's house1 looking not so repentant as on the first afternoon of her punishment4 ,as ,i said1 ,i am tired and sad--and ,i wish you good-night across the ocean and land4 ,at ,home in ,vaiala1 ,nov4 #dth4 ,the end of our malaga was not so pleasant4 ,when we left ,sapotulafai last week1 ,i was ill and fevered1 and suffered quite a little during our long trip of fourteen hours at sea4 ,we had to row it4 ,there was no wind1 and our men1 never over-energetic1 had been up all night in the last enjoyment of social delights4 ,once indeed1 ,seu scornfully took an oar1 but even with that1 twelve good hours' rowing is not bad work1 and we got back in the evening at eight1 having left ,savaii at six o'clock in the morning4 ,the light and colour were as usual3 even with fever ,i could occasionally see how beautiful all was1 but ,i managed to sleep1 and do not remember anything in particular1 unless it be the long-continued song of the men rowing---- 8,lelei4 ,apoli-ma6 ,o-le-e--,o-le-e60 ,vaiala in ,upolu1 ,nov4 #acth4 ,yesterday1 on ,faatulia's invitation1 we rode over to the ,papa-seea1 the ,sliding ,rock3 only a little distance1 some hour and a half from where we are1 so that by eight o'clock or so we were out in the rain1 mounted on the horses seared up with difficulty for the early start4 ,mine was a horse owned by the boy ,poki1 who is an owner of horses--he has now three1 and his food for them is given by the village common4 ,his still more youthful friend1 ,sopo1 hired his horse to ,atamo and somebody else fitted out ,awoki and ,charley who went with us4 ,samau1 the tulafale1 and another of our crew were to go ahead and carry some ,european food and our painting and photographing kit4 ,as we passed along the beach1 which is1 as you know1 the street of ,apia1 we met ,meli ,hamilton and ,faatulia and ,fanua1 and little ,meli ,meredith1 all mounted4 ,gathering them together1 under rather a gentle rain1 we turned toward the woods behind the town and cantered over a dyke1 through a mangrove swamp1 where formerly must have been some coral inlet2 then past some villages1 a few huts1 and then into the forest4 ,this is no description to you1 but perhaps ,i can interest you by letting you understand that the delicate form of the great novelist1 ,mr4 ,stevenson1 passes up or down this road1 of necessity1 on his way to his ,spanish ,castle in the mountains4 ,so that when he begins to write ,south ,sea stories1 and is obliged to use local colour1 you shall probably admire some beautiful description of all or part of the road4 ,in the woods we overtook our men1 and dear ,fagalo and ,su1 whose bare legs were paddling in the rain4 ,a little path led through woods all overgrown1 in a narrow zigzag1 over fallen trunks and under branches beneath which we bent4 ,the light fell through green high up1 upon green all around us2 innumerable small trees and bushes1 and occasionally great trees whose trunks ended in high buttresses of rooting sharp and thin1 as if the trunk had been ravined4 ,these are the trees which in the old story-books of travel were supposed to furnish a ready-made planking4 ,over all grew lianas and vines whose great long stems hung in the air above us1 or low enough to be pushed aside as we rode4 ,notwithstanding the several varieties of growth--the ,samoan wild orange with double leaf and prickly stem1 whose fruit was used in old times as a soap to wash with1 or the ,fuafua1 with broad leaves--the effect was not unlike the appearance of our own forests1 had it not been for the lianas1 and the occasional sheafs of wild banana that swung against our horses' heads4 ,for an hour we went along in a scattered file1 the sunlight occasionally dropping in upon the great stillness around us4 ,rarely a bird sung4 ,once we heard the running of a river4 ,then we came to a stopping place2 all got off2 the girls ,illustration3 ,,the ,,boy ,,sopo4 ,,samoa skilfully ungirthing and unsaddling their horses1 and tying them up to the branches with long ropes4 ,over the trees that sloped down below us1 we could now see the harbour of ,apia1 from one end to the other1 and we kindled a fire of dead wood1 to show the anxious friends at our end of the bay that we had arrived4 ,there are three waterfalls in this little opening to which our narrow path had led us1 and it leads no further and nowhere else4 ,of the three falls1 each divided from the others by wide platforms of rock1 the upper one is low and does not count4 ,it is the second and the third that are 8slipping rocks40 ,the water rushes over them in one or many falls1 according to the season1 and in some of the channels the surface has become so slippery with moss that all one has to do is to sit and be whirled into the pool below4 ,we had just begun to look down into the little hollow1 edged on one side by a high rock upon which ferns and vines and green bananas find a scanty foothold1 when ,fagalo1 throwing off her upper covering1 seated herself on the edge of the current1 and in an instant had slipped off4 ,and a laugh from below echoed above as she rose from the pool and swam to the shore4 ,by the time that we had clambered down to meet her1 she had come up and rushed down again followed by ,su4 ,the sight was charming3 the pretty girls1 with arms thrown out and bodies straight for balance1 their wet clothes driven tightly to the hips in the rush of the water1 had a look of gold against the gray that brought up ,clarence ,king's phrase about ,hawaii and the 8old-gold girls that tumbled down waterfalls40 ,in the plunge and the white foam1 the yellow limbs did indeed look like goldfish in a blue-green pool4 ,further down there is a small rush of water into a little hollow in the rock2 the two girls in their play filled it easily1 like mermaids in too small a tank4 ,then we had lunch on banana leaves1 to which our wet friends contributed the shrimps that they had caught1 accidently as it were1 and without thinking1 in these moments of 8abandon40 ,we had also a mess of palolo looking like very dark green spinach1 darker than the green leaves in which it was wrapped4 ,adams insisted that this dish tasted quite like 8foie gras10 which he also said was quite as nasty a preparation4 ,to explain what palolo is ,i should have told you of a little expedition we made one morning last week1 just on the return from our malaga4 ,but ,i was ill and had suffered too much from native food to write any more upon similar subjects4 ,even all my liking for ,meli ,hamilton and my admiration for the fullness and redness of her lips1 and for the gleam of her teeth1 could scarcely reconcile me to the wriggling of the great tree worms through which she crunched so gayly and healthily at our last great ,samoan dinner4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,papa-,,seea1 ,,or ,,sliding ,,rock4 ,,fagalo ,,sliding ,,waterfall4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa ,at the waterfall1 after our lunch1 our men had theirs1 and they sat with heads all wrapped about with leaves1 while the rain came down upon them2 for if there is anything that a ,samoan detests it is getting his hair wet4 ,the rest of him does not matter4 ,meanwhile we smoked under our umbrellas1 pretty ,meli ,meredith half under mine1 and ,meli ,hamilton under a big banana leaf4 ,for most of the others rain did not matter4 ,they had either gone into the water or were preparing to do so by sitting quietly in the current4 ,otaota had prepared for the slide1 and was stretched out in the run of the waterfall that now swept over1 now left uncovered her extended limbs2 for she leaned out upon one elbow1 and dipped a hand in the water1 scattering it upon the other girls in a lazy way4 ,otaota was 8missionary0 that day1 and would not uncover the lovely torso about which ,i have told you so much4 ,then the sun came out in a lingering1 gentle way1 as if it dripped down from the sky1 and with it all the girls went over2 ,fanua and ,meli ,meredith and ,otaota4 ,and as we looked down upon them1 they swam over and hid behind the branchings of the vines like so many nymphs of streams1 their faces and arms glancing like gold out of the green4 ,near them one of our men made a deep red in the water by contrast4 ,and now ,awoki1 with much hesitation1 prepared1 put on the native lavalava1 and tried his luck4 ,yellow he is to us1 but he looked white and pallid among all those browns and reds4 ,the whole thing was catching1 and had we stayed longer we too should have been over1 though ,adams said that just then our dignity forbade it4 ,but our feeling of dignity had been helped by ,meli ,hamilton's telling us that the last time she had gone over the fall1 she had struck badly against a rock1 and so had her companion1 the navy officer2 so that with the rain beginning again1 horses were bridled and saddled1 and we all started for a wet ride in the wet woods1 down the slippery path which we had to take in single file4 ,fagalo rode with ,charley1 on ,sopo's little nag1 and the last thing ,i saw of ,otaota was her bare legs over the back of ,awoki's horse2 he sat behind1 his arms around her1 gallantly protecting all that remained of her with his little waterproof4 ,and we came home tired and wet1 but having spent a pleasant childlike day with grown-up children4 ,,palolo ,vaiala in ,upolu1 ,nov4 #adth4 ,i broke off yesterday telling you about palolo4 ,i think my words ended by telling you that even all my liking and admiration for ,meli ,hamilton would scarcely reconcile me to the wriggling of the great tree worms which she crunched at our ,illustration3 ,,girl ,,sliding ,,down ,,waterfall4 ,,banana ,,leaf ,,around ,,her ,,body4 ,,samoa last ,samoan dinner4 ,mrs4 ,lieutenant ,parker became very white as she saw her and ,i handed her rapidly something or other1 brandy or whiskey1 to help the occasion4 ,palolo has no such horrors4 ,for it we have not had far to go4 ,only just out into the reefs before us1 when1 in the early morning before the dawn1 we rowed out a few yards to find a concourse of people1 in boats and canoes1 scooping up with eager hands thin hairlike worms that swarmed in the water within the special hollows of the coral reef4 ,we were more or less ready for the appearance of these little creatures who1 on a certain day of the year and the moon1 appear suddenly with the dawn and disappear with the sunrise until another year4 ,we were expecting this arrival1 which never fails4 ,as ,i said1 it is looked for ahead2 it has its own laws2 the scientific ones fail because we have calculated by our dates1 instituted for other reasons than the life of the palolo4 ,our ,samoan friends are in the secret4 ,we white people compute that the palolo is due at dead low water in the night of the third quarter of the moon nearest the first of ,november1 but that reckoning involves ,solar and ,lunar months1 as ,i intimated4 ,our good friends here have been whispering to us and telling us that this was to happen and they know how to be prepared for it4 ,certain plants1 certain shrubs blossom2 and then you know that the time of the palolo's month is drawing near4 ,there are signs in the heavens1 and the moon helps4 ,it is1 ,i think1 in its third quarter that the event takes place4 ,somebody with us1 perhaps several people 7because our village contains important and learned people7 mark time during the year by counting pebbles1 and green feathers1 and leaves1 up to such and such a day1 so that1 at a certain moment1 our friends can tell us that the palolo is due next morning4 ,the third year one has to count a different number of days1 but the creatures down below in the coral know exactly to the minute4 ,the night is watched through1 our people are all ready1 are warned at the proper moment4 ,people from far away are also ready4 ,our friends have found each one some proper hole which may be more or less lucky later4 ,we watched the dawn coming upon us1 lighting the breakers on the edge of the reef4 ,when the breakers withdraw it is slack tide and we watch1 and our friends watch1 more intently than we can1 the absolute calm of the water4 ,then1 of a sudden1 somebody calls out1 8the palolo is there60 or something like it1 and then this empty water is full of long lines of what seems to be worms1 which you scoop up1 not so anxiously as those who care4 ,a short time1 an hour they say but it seemed to me shorter1 the sun is up over the edge and the worm is gone until next year4 ,it is nothing but something like the thinnest of little seaweed a few inches long1 and you have to accept as a fact that this wriggling mass is made up of worms4 ,i wish ,i could fairly describe the place and scene but you can make it up for yourself4 ,the scene is one of busy struggle4 ,it is a matter of food1 it is true1 also a festival of amusement apart from the picnic side4 ,very interesting was the eagerness shown in the catching1 by the few white girls born here1 whom ,i watched4 ,they paddled about1 jumped out with bare feet on to the jagged coral like any ,polynesian1 but with that seriousness and ferocity of our race1 so different from the easy good-natured suppleness of the brown skins who seem to be part of the nature around them4 ,the dark transparent water inside the reefs1 the rosy colouring of the dawn1 the splendour of the sunrise which is at length over land and water1 would have been beautiful enough even without this animation of human element4 ,but ,i have not dared taste the palolo even as made up yesterday with cocoanut milk4 ,i have come to the point of a revolt against almost all of the food1 from cocoanut milk to live fish and slugs4 ,vaiala in ,upolu1 ,sunday1 ,nov4 #bc1 #ahij4 ,the end of the last week has been filled with festivity4 ,seu has been giving a great feast1 and this has been a very serious matter4 ,we have seen other feasts before1 but none so successful and so great4 ,the presents given to ,seu and ,faatulia1 or rather to ,vao1 their little daughter1 in whose name the feast was given1 were larger in number than we had yet heard of4 ,among vast quantities of other things were hecatombs of pigs--in prose fact1 three hundred and twenty-five--over two thousand rolls of tappa1 and several dozen of 8fine mats40 ,all the neighbouring houses were in requisition for the guests1 who kept coming from various quarters during the whole week1 and especially from ,savaii1 where is the stronghold of ,faatulia's family4 ,faatulia wore the anxious look of the hostess on her kindly face1 and ,seu looked worried1 a thing ,i should have thought impossible4 ,but as ,i go on you will see how serious it all is1 however gratifying it may be to pride of position4 ,the house of ,seu was charmingly decorated with tappa1 even to the floor1 so as to remind me1 but ,i own1 more pleasantly1 of our most sthetic studios4 ,in others1 there were few ,european visitors1 and more packing of ,samoans4 ,in one other especially1 ,i think loaned by the ,king1 a collection of taupos from various localities filled the space by the posts1 so as to make the hut look like a basket of flowers4 ,far in the central penumbra1 two female giants sat all decorated1 and around them the backs and waists of the others looked like a garden of dahlias and brown skin4 ,for some were 8faa ,samoa0--others were more or less 8papalagi0 foreigners4 ,in that case1 however1 their waist coverings were amusing4 ,some had corselets of leaves lapping over like ,etruscan or ,greek plate armour4 ,others had coloured netting1 others had tappa cut out with various openings1 like some heathen dream of 8insertions0 7,i think women call it so74 ,one girl had a corselet of cut paper of many colours1 making her look like a flower-bed1 her oiling giving to the paper a look of leafage4 ,there were dresses of the usual variety and in one case a large number of flower petals caught up one by one in the locks of the hair4 ,in another the whole hair had been filled with little light blue bits of paper cut like petals4 ,mind you1 all this was beautiful1 funny as it was1 and upon the green grass background1 made1 as ,i said1 a basket of flowers4 ,the brown skins that were not covered glowed like fruit4 ,in perfect taste1 for even garlands are gawky compared to the ineffable logic that the human frame carries with it1 one good girl had no covering to her body1 and this savage from the farther back country had a face that looked like the ,italians'4 ,in the shadow1 playing with a bambino1 she made a madonna4 ,the reason of it came to me suddenly--her hair was down upon the forehead in the two large folds that we associate with the ,italian way1 and a great look of seriousness was added to the disdainful kindness of the face4 ,behind her head the hair was full1 in a mass whose colour was blond with liming1 and made a great capital for the column of her torso seen with arms hidden in front4 ,of her ,i have made some studies1 and posed her for photographs1 and later1 on the next night1 she gave us a siva in our own house2 ,adams and ,i having duly called upon her1 as if we were young men1 with five loaves of bread1 and two tins of salmon1 as is the proper thing for youthful admirers like ourselves4 ,around this beehive of yellow and black were assembled matrons and children and boys1 waiting for the later food1 of which they as relatives would have the larger part4 ,far off1 in another part of the grounds1 ,lima1 known as ,john ,adams1 presided over the food2 and in front of him a vast mass of pigs and bananas and taro1 etc41 etc41 littered the ground4 ,john told us about it in a high-pitched voice1 with an accent that brought back indefinable associations4 ,whom did ,i know of the old school with such perfect intonation in ,english1 and a diction that implied the gentleman by accepted tradition8 ,could it have been some old officer of the navy--could it have been some far-back ,englishman or antique ,southerner8 ,but ,john1 even in his exterior manner1 brought back all the feeling that we do not speak ,english as well to-day as once was done1 and that our refinement of manner and accent has disappeared4 ,the feast had begun2 under long stretches of tappa supported by poles1 guests were assembled around the tables of banana leaf1 while we wandered about1 made prudent by former disasters in diet4 ,it was pleasant to see the triumphant carrying of great pigs by the young men1 garlanded and cinctured3 the platforms of sugar-cane and taro disposed in a show1 as if growing in some impossible yet graceful way--the taro like grapes on a vine4 ,then we wandered back to our taupos in their home4 ,they were feasting in a circle around the banana trays4 ,two men were hewing the pigs into segments1 with the swish so well described by my ,chinese philosopher1 ,chuang ,tseu1 in his chapter of the 8,rising ,clouds0--if that be the one4 ,two older women stalked about amid the food1 who caught these chunks of meat and tossed them to the taupos4 ,occasionally they varied this by assorted lots of taro or cooked food4 ,do not suppose by this that these vigorous maidens were bolting their food4 ,no1 all this was ,samoan and communistic2 no one lives for himself here1 but for the lot4 ,these good girls were hard at work1 passing all this to old women with baskets1 and two young people who sat on the edge of the hut with feet outside1 impatiently urged them4 8,wait10 they said1 8wait2 our turn in a moment10 and amid laughter and chattering and long reproofs of the old women1 the food came to them in turn4 ,i suppose the taupos managed to get something1 but if they did1 they deserved it for the work they had in passing the food away4 ,this is ,samoa--where a gift is shared or given away4 ,when we called later on one of the taupos1 as ,i told you1 and carried our little gifts1 half of them were at once given to the owners of the house1 and the other half to some chief who happened to be present4 ,all this as a matter of course1 with fair counting1 as in a commercial firm4 ,even the cigar accepted by the fair one1 passed in a few seconds to her nearest neighbour4 ,some one was telling me yesterday1 of having given a cigar a few days ago to a ,samoan1 who had just bitten it1 when another passing asked for it4 ,thereupon it was handed away1 as a matter of course4 8,why did you give that80 the white man said4 8,because he asked10 said the ,samoan4 8,but is there no further reason80 8,yes2 ,i might some day want a cigar1 and if he had one1 ,i should ask40 ,the community of friends and relatives is a sort of bank where you deposit and draw as you may need4 ,so for ,seu's food3 almost all is given to him4 ,it is given out1 sent away if people are not there2 a procession of people carrying things from the feast1 filed along all the afternoon4 ,after the feast1 a siva in the open air1 where ,fanua danced4 ,the crowd was full all about her and her assistants1 girls and men4 ,the occasion was a notable one4 ,two white missionaries with their wives were present1 and the siva was danced before them4 ,henceforward the excommunication will be difficult1 unless the native preachers insist upon having their own way4 ,but we shall have been present at this great event4 ,i spoke to one of the missionaries for a moment1 a rather interesting man1 who talked a little about his hopes for the ,samoans1 their conservatism1 and their not being emotional1 however excitable they might appear to be1 so that things once impressed upon them had a fair chance of thriving4 ,and thereupon we proceeded 7those of us who were tired7 to get away--not without1 however1 looking once more at another siva getting under way1 with some of the many taupos and their male assistant dancers1 to see them oil4 ,some one ran around offering the liquid1 which was poured full upon everything1 dress and person4 ,and being introduced1 ,i shook the oily palms of some of the girls and of one splendid chief--who might have been drier4 ,then1 later1 ,adams and ,i called on our taupo friend1 whose home we proposed to drop into next week in our travels1 and who is visiting near us4 ,we arranged with ,meli ,hamilton as our tulafale for a siva in our own house4 ,there at night the taupo came1 in the pouring rain1 and ,i sat in my own comfortable chair1 with ,mrs4 ,parker next to me1 and felt at home2 for in the shadow ,i could close my eyes or look on while the figures danced in shadow or in light4 ,the next day we were summoned again to ,seu's feast4 ,a siva would be danced for us papalagi who had been too crowded the day before4 ,so that we went to see the comedy1 which began seriously enough4 ,we sat a while in ,seumanu's house1 filled with friends and relatives1 while a woman1 an ex-taupo1 carefully unfolded the presents of 8fine mats10 saying what they were for1 and from whom1 and occasionally something of their history4 ,for the 8fine mat0 is the great possession--the heirloom1 the old silver1 the jewels of the ,samoan4 ,and one tattered piece that was held up for show1 sewed together1 its trimming of feathers all gone1 and full of holes1 was looked at with respect2 it had been royal4 ,around these mats cluster romance and story--war and quarrels--and the idea of the palladium1 the insignia of power4 ,the mat has been given at marriage and at birth1 and has been worn on great occasions--it has witnessed those scenes1 and besides carries money value4 ,its very stains tell stories of those events in life4 ,so that ,seu's thirty odd mats were quite an affair1 exclusive of the pile of two thousand pieces of tappa4 ,as soon as the mats had been counted over1 and admired1 and a polite discussion arose1 our hostess insisting that it must be a bore for us to look over all this1 the polite guests insisting that nothing could be more entertaining4 ,then ,john ,adams 7,lima71 in his fine old-fashioned voice and way1 cried out that if we wished1 a siva was getting ready in the next house1 and as our adviser whispered to us that we had better be away1 for that now the real work had begun4 ,it was for ,seu and ,faatulia and the family group to decide as to who should be the people to whom all these gifts were to be made over4 ,a few they might keep1 but the mass must go4 ,every giver had a right to something1 if possible finer than his gift3 and here was a ploy1 as ,sir ,walter says4 ,everything must be according to dignity and family and precedence1 and everything that society means everywhere4 ,think of the heart-burnings1 jealousies1 affronts1 etc41 that hung in the balance4 ,many a time in ,samoa1 war has begun by some error in such adjustments4 ,no wonder that we were better out of the way4 ,even to-day1 we are told that several days more1 a whole week1 will be consumed in these weighty questions1 and ,seu is to wear his look of worry for days4 ,adams and ,i sat on branches3 ,i1 on the right1 ,adams1 on the left of her ,majesty the ,queen1 while a siva of two pretty children1 little taupos1 daughters of a chief of ,savaii1 and of two young men1 went on before us in the sweet light1 half sunlight and half rain4 ,these two little girls1 ,selu's daughter and her little friend1 the daughter of a chief of ,iva1 gave us an infantile imitation1 while another chief played buffoon1 to give them courage and protect them from serious attention4 ,and this time ,fanua sat behind us1 and looked on1 alongside of many young girls and women whom we have learned to know a little4 ,up to this time1 the terrible ordeal of decision of presents must have gone on1 and will not be through until late next week1 when we hope to get ,seumanu on another malaga2 but this time at our own pleasure1 and with the hope of making sketches and studies with more leisure1 and with a better knowledge1 for as you know1 he who runs finds it difficult to read1 and there is nothing that ,i abhor more than the carrying of the studio sight into other visions4 ,only the poet is free1 whether he be painter or writer1 for with him subjects are only excuses1 and as ,fromentin has put it so perfectly1 ,delacroix's three months of ,morocco contain all that has been said and will be said of the east and south of the ,mediterranean4 ,but we cannot all be great people like ,delacroix1 nor great painters like him1 nor perhaps was he at all aware in early life of his always having achieved4 ,but he tried probably1 to be exact and faithful1 as any one of us might do4 ,the weather is again beautiful2 to-day is all blue and triumphant2 indeed1 the sky is bluer than it was1 although the grass is yellower1 and in the afternoon late1 the clouds of the horizon are radiant in violet and rose4 ,fanua has come up to see me1 with the ,queen's little daughter all clad in pink1 who has been living in ,fiji1 and talks ,english quite well1 and says like a child1 that she likes ,fiji better than ,samoa4 ,service at the little church opposite is just over1 where ,fanua has been1 and where ,i have heard the voice of ,otaota's father preaching4 ,he has called upon me1 apparently interested in questioning about the ,mormons1 who have sent missionaries here1 and whose wives often canter past1 against the blue background of the sea4 ,otaota's father is not a little proud of his preaching1 which indeed sounds well out of the church windows1 and he asks me why ,i don't come in to listen more closely4 ,his parishioners sit on mats1 and ,i sometimes lend some of mine to stray visitors1 especially to members of our crew4 ,the men sit on one side1 the women on the other3 and files of women1 especially1 walk along with mats under their arms or over their heads1 or held in front of them2 and occasionally a child is carried outside on the hip4 ,there is a small post near by1 upon which is a small bell1 and a ladder to get to it1 all under a tree1 and some young girl or boy rings the clapper with great zeal4 ,i have made a sketch of one of them who accidently set about a missionary work1 without putting on her tiputa1 to cover her bosom1 and who was worried as ,i sketched her1 between the propriety of carrying out her 8missionary work0 and her want of missionary propriety4 ,fanua has left1 after sending for the child of a neighbour and caressing it during part of our supposed conversation4 ,they say that she is thinking of marrying1 and certainly she will make a nice wife and mother if one can judge by looking at her4 ,is there anything sweeter than a woman caressing a child8 and how fond these ,samoans are of children4 ,they swarm about as free as birds1 rarely checked2 the owner of our house1 the chief ,magogi1 looks more good-natured and smiling than ever1 when after his fishing1 and leaving a fish with us1 he parades about with his child in his arms4 ,like a woman1 he even carries him when he is attending to something else4 ,and ,tofae is as gentle to little ,george 7the son of the late ,english ,consul1 and of ,tel7 whom he has adopted1 as if he were a mother4 ,when he and other chiefs1 in the afternoon1 sit about on the grass1 far interspersed1 some ten or twenty feet from each other1 in ,samoan fashion1 little ,george creeps up and nestles against him1 making with him the only group in the big circle4 ,fanua has gone1 and from ,mataafa's house begins a hymn4 ,i recognize the ancient sound of the ,ave ,maria ,stella 7for ,mataafa is a ,catholic7--another version of the ,vallis ,lachrymarum that ,otaota's father was urging on his people an hour ago3 8,it is morning and you dance--but night is coming and then----0 ,the ,samoan smile is proof against anything--but ,mataafa is grave and somewhat sad1 and must take things on a scale far different4 ,the mournful dignity of his position--a king is always a king1 and he has been a real one--of highest birth and greatest capacity--must always oppress him4 ,and he has no future1 ,i fear1 for his holding power might be against the interests of ,germany1 to which ,england will always accede as a bargain1 and to which we will yield1 for we don't care1 and we are not yet aware of our enormous strength1 to be used for ill or for good1 and we sell it willingly for anything4 ,the former ,german ruler here knew all about it1 for the ,germans have every power of measuring us1 and he said to our representative3 8,you are really weak--like all ,republicans--always at the mercy of little home events1 and any one of you will trade for some personal advantage4 ,you can have no policy1 that any one of you in politics would not break through1 to play a trick on the political adversary2 and then you have no fleet nor army1 to show to others what you could do4 ,before you can make up your mind to anything we shall have taken ,samoa for ourselves40 ,god willed it otherwise1 but the ,german had measured us1 at least as we are to-day4 ,the moon is almost full1 and comes up in the night1 while the sun is still lighting the sky with pink4 ,around her a single cloud is greenish white1 while the entire sky is suffused with rose4 ,the breakers are rosy white2 the sea is of a daylight blue1 the furthest distance is lit up1 and a rose-coloured cloud hangs on the horizon far below the moon1 while her wake cuts in silver across the sunlit sea and surf4 ,the western sky is all afire1 and against it1 when the eye is protected1 the shadows of the moonlight fall with extreme clearness and precision4 ,the beauty is ineffable2 a little sarcasm comes up into my mind--a reminiscence of the theatre1 of a too perfect arrangement1 in which the machinist has combined too much together1 the sun and the moon both equally splendid--night together with day4 ,i am sure that no one would believe it if painted1 and most would know it was incorrect4 ,this disturbs my peace--but only a little4 ,the good that comes from seeing through our teachers1 is that at length we have no more use for them1 and the remainder of life is more economical4 ,and indeed1 the world about me here seems to say1 8,see with how little we can be rich60 ,another ,samoan ,malaga1 ,nov4 #cjth4 ,fagaloa ,bay1 on the ,n4 ,e4 side of ,upolu4 ,we are on another malaga4 ,i have not quite recovered from illness1 so that the trip is not all enjoyment1 and ,i write to you in some dejection and with an effort4 ,we are going around the island1 some hundred miles1 in our two boats2 our own managed by ,samau1 the tulafale1 as coxswain1 with four men to carry provisions1 etc41 and plenty of luggage and food for all of us2 and ,seumanu's boat with ten rowers4 ,we left the day before yesterday1 in the early dove-coloured morning1 all grey with partial rain1 the mountains covered at top1 and low down in the gorges1 the mist and smoke from villages rising up in straight lines that looked like enormous waterfalls4 ,our first landing was at ,falef1 where a river falls over wide rocks in its way to the sea1 not so differently from other pretty waterfalls1 except that it makes a broad spread of water that joins the sea1 so that from some points one might imagine that the ocean runs in to meet it4 ,and then behind the frame of the wide fall and its bordering trees1 one sees the mountains of the dim interior4 ,there we rested at midday1 and ,i lay on the mats1 ill and tired1 while ,charley explained to the young woman of the house1 wife of the native teacher1 the meaning of a large sheet of the spring fashions of this year1 which she had pinned up1 with many other pictures from newspapers1 upon the screen that divided the house4 ,her husband was away1 attending the great meeting or ,fono at ,malua1 the missionary school1 where the toleration or rejection of the siva has been1 or is being discussed4 ,i am told now that the native clergy have held their own2 and that though not reproving their white brethren1 they have not quite concurred in a full freedom of toleration1 but have arranged some middle term by which the question will be always limited to individual cases4 ,later in the afternoon ,i sketched at the waterfall1 in that curious silence filled with the sustained sound of rushing water1 that belongs to such places1 within which a faint1 sharper thrill was the gliding of the surf upon the beach behind it4 ,the place was shaded in its own shade1 thrown over it by the hills that enclose and make it4 ,here and there1 the sun caught the roll of the water1 and the distant valley and mountains behind it were all floating in hot light and moisture that came down in great gusts with wafts of heat4 ,in the evening we came into this beautiful bay with high mountains on either side1 and fringes of lower land4 ,the bay1 as its name indicates1 is a very long one1 running far inland4 ,the site we are in is charming1 the great mountains right behind us1 and from their lower sides1 long waterfalls creep down the cliffs and glisten through the top branches of the palms4 ,around us all is covered with trees4 ,i have lounged and slept as much as possible4 ,atamo has begun to paddle a canoe1 taking out the taupo with him4 ,she has been very nice to us1 doing her best with food1 and seeing us to bed1 and being in early to see us get up1 and doing her duty generally and pleasantly4 ,and she has given us sivas4 ,we had met her before at ,seu's feast2 we felt mutual good will1 so that she was prepared4 ,her devotion to ,atamo is great1 and as ,i said1 she has done her best by our food1 which we managed this time with ,awoki's help4 ,through her eyes we saw one evening the resemblance of the light carried on the reef by the phantom of the lady who appears when night fishing goes on4 ,you may remember1 how she 7as do others of the dead1 or certain spirits perhaps--they are all confused in the ,polynesian mind7 fishes silently in the crowd of the canoes1 or alongside of some single occupant--and then suddenly1 when detected or suspected1 disappears with the dawn that clears all our doubts away4 ,of this apparition some here say that she has her own canoe apart1 just out of reach--some say that she walks on the water--but when she is followed1 she makes for the shore1 then is lost in the trees1 and soon her lantern is seen going far up into the trackless mountain4 ,there no one likes to follow at night4 ,the dark for the ,polynesian has terrors uncertain1 natural enough1 for the dark here is uncanny1 and when plunged in its terrors the brown man does not like to add a definite influence or a name of ill omen4 ,the belief in what might be called a lower supernatural is still strong3 ,christianity does well enough for the great needs1 but something else is wanted for the smaller fears and dangers--the things about us at every moment2 and it has interested us to draw out the small beliefs of this unimaginative and very practical race1 who on one side are so much christianized4 ,i wish that ,i could recall for you the scene in which we heard this story4 ,the hollow silence between the mountain in the night--the water dark before us between darker trees4 ,the dark shadows of the mountains1 across the bay--the long glistening line of reflected starlight rolled up with a splash upon the beach that broke the quiet shiver of the palms4 ,and then the one light1 far out on the reef which caught the look of our maiden and drew the legend from her4 ,i regret so much that my constant fatigue prevents my noting some of all this for you1 and that ,i give you1 too1 no better description of what ,i see4 ,the place is well worth some talk--even if it were nothing but a memorandum of the pretty talolo1 or presentation of food1 in which two or three dozen girls brought up the presents of taro and fruit1 and threw them before us1 filing out of the green trees1 and disappearing again within them4 ,ulutogia 7part of ,aliipata7 ,dec4 #b;d4 ,we are at a charming place in the town of ,aliipata1 which seems to stretch indefinitely for miles along the shore4 ,we have had two invitations to stop2 one from ,mataafa1 and one from ,tofae1 who both have their connections here1 but we have pushed further on1 and are now at the house of a chief1 whose name is ,sagapolu1 as ,i make it out4 ,before us1 to sea1 over a great spread of blue1 are two blue cones1 little spots that belong to ,tutuila4 ,near us are rocky islands--two of them outside of our reef4 ,we came in on the blue swell that hid everything1 and then pulled hard over the boiling of the surf1 in the charm that covers danger4 ,the morning was lovely on the water1 and we raced with our other boats4 ,we had said good-bye to our friends in ,fagaloa1 who the night before had given us a siva1 not a prolonged one1 well done by the girls1 and accompanied curiously by the two-year-old daughter of the chief1 who followed seriously the performance1 and beat time or caught up with the gestures of the older people4 ,nothing could be stranger1 and a more complete proof of the siva's being a natural expression4 ,no one noticed the child as anything extraordinary1 except by an occasional smile4 ,our crew was asked to perform1 and the villagers and the taupo gave the preference1 and she was right1 to our men4 ,the girls always seem anxious to see the men's dances2 a compliment not always returned by the men4 ,the rising of the moon saw us to bed1 and we tried to sleep late1 fearing the hard day that has just passed over us4 ,here1 so far1 all has been as usual4 ,the house is far from others1 all in the open1 with palm trees some way off4 ,at one end of the room is a reading desk1 and the ruined walls of the church near by1 explain that this house is used as a temporary chapel4 ,at the other end1 is a table covered with costly mats1 upon which are flowers in glass bottles1 and there are two big settles and two big chairs1 covered with shaggy white mats made from the fibres of the fao tree2 all this furniture upon beautiful sleeping mats4 ,we have had a complimentary speech from the tulafale1 the old chief1 who is thin and emaciated and extremely dignified1 and has given us kava2 and ,i have learned that ,seumanu has a kava name of ,tauamamanu ,vao 7fighting with beasts of the field71 when kava is called out for him2 the taupo has come in to make it1 and ,samau of our boat1 and ,tamaseu of ,seumanu's1 both tulafales1 have come in to share it4 ,there has been a spread of ,samoan fare1 apparently good1 but ,i feel prudent and have taken little kava1 and have been only a beholder of the feast4 ,the taupo1 who is very young1 is very silent1 even when ,atamo says that he is writing home about her4 ,they are sitting together1 he absolutely immersed in his writing1 a feat of which he is always capable apparently1 and she is wiping her face on a new silk scarf of blue and red which he has given her1 so that it has already caught the shine of the cocoanut oil4 ,another little girl has singled me out1 and has come to make friends1 but ,i can only give her lollipops1 that are handed away almost immediately1 like my biscuit1 to the smaller children4 ,i have invited my fate1 for ,i smiled at this beginning of taupodom1 when she came in1 almost closing her eyes from anxiety1 to put a ,samoan pillow for me on the pile of sleeping mats that had been spread for us to take a nap4 ,seu is having his back punched by an elderly lady1 and peace and the flies reign over all4 ,here is a curious fact2 one would think that with their habits of sitting and lying about1 these people would remain in position1 but it is only when they are sleeping very soundly that one can find them steady1 unless it be a ,tulafale officiating1 or a chief sitting for dignity4 ,the foot that does not press the ground is simply waggled interminably4 ,try it for part of a minute and see how difficult it is2 and then you will realize that people who can move the foot for ten or twelve hours a day1 may be able to dance when sitting1 with an ease that only a juggler knows about his fingers4 ,meanwhile1 the sky is blue1 with innumerable white clouds2--the sun smiles down on the banana grove behind us1 and in front of it a little veil of light drops shows that it is raining overhead4 ,the smoke from the house near us bends down lazily over the roofs1 and ,seu's tulafale and one of our men1 are beating a tune on the two great war drums4 ,lali is the name of the beating of a tune4 ,one two1 two--two1 and so on1 weird enough and rather tiresome4 ,such are the intervals of their naps1 for they have had three hours of solid rowing this morning1 and they need rest4 ,at this moment the old chief comes in and talks about the music--praising the accentuation4 ,these drums are near his house1 say some twenty feet off1 and are very large2 gigantic troughs of old wood4 ,then he calls across space for his daughter to make kava again2 this is the third time within just three hours1 but this time the kava will be chewed and not grated1 as ,atamo has asked for it4 ,meanwhile a discussion on the name of the daughter3 it is ,mo ,niu ,fataia1 if ,i get it right2 it does not matter4 ,her name represents the fact that a place called ,fataia1 which we passed yesterday1 has wild cocoanuts growing upon it that roll useless into the sea3 hence her name4 8,the plenty of cocoanuts1 of ,fataia1 that you don't get40 ,it is this little word ,mo that means 8plenty that you don't get40 ,niu is cocoanut4 ,you will notice all through1 so far1 how often names for people are arbitrary and accidental4 ,otaota1 the beautiful daughter of the missionary person1 is called ,rubbish4 ,fagalo1 who slipped the waterfall1 is ,forgetful1 and so on4 ,we have ,smell ,smoke ,namuasua 7or ,cook-house1 as ,samasoni translated it7 in our boat's crew4 ,in the early traditions1 such and such an early divine heroine names her children by things that occur at their birth4 ,one1 ,i remember of 8,carpenter's ,tools ,rattling in a ,basket40 ,the ,bible is dipped into at random for names1 and yesterday ,i talked to young ,miss ,kisa1 which sounds like ,kiss ,her1 but is ,kish 8who killed ,saul40 7,my taupo's statement1 the usual ,bible may run otherwise47 ,i cannot make out whether good luck follows these sortes biblical4 ,at this very moment ,i see coming to me a young lady who wears a black mat and a mop of yellow hair and nothing else1 not even a collar4 ,she is late1 having been at church4 ,she is the official taupo1 the other one only taking a momentary place1 and she is the daughter of the chief1 and has brought presents of rings and of tappa2 and her name is ,faatoe1 which means all agree1 8,leave something in the basket0 7when all are helping themselves71 and ,i think this is a very fair addition to our stock of names4 ,all this time the others to whom she is added are getting the kava ready carefully1 gravely1 chewing the root to extract its juice4 ,there is a big row of kava people or attendants--all pensive2 one man1 two taupos1 another man of ours1 a little girl1 and another of our men--no--there are a few others who are around the corner so that ,i can't see them4 99 99 99 99 99 ,then ,i went for a long walk on the seashore4 ,the sun was setting2 only toward ,apolima was the sky at all clear4 ,over one of the islands to the north1 cloud and mist threatening immediate rain1 made a large veil that hung far up and melted its violet lace over the island4 ,the sea was of the fairy green that the inside of the reef takes in rain1 spotted with violet where the coral lay4 ,with me walked on one side my little girl1 her upper garment fluttering1 her young1 long brown arms and legs glistening in the sun4 ,she smiled at me for all talk1 for ,english she knew not4 ,on the other side1 a hunch-backed dwarf1 ,japhet by name1 with yellowed crispy hair1 naked to the waist1 a garland of red fruit hanging down on him1 to meet the blue drapery about his loins--his bare legs and tattooed thighs glistening also in the light4 ,their company meant kindness and the habit of accompanying a chief--and they were kindly certainly1 and meant to please and serve4 ,neither you nor ,i could have invented a more curious combination1 and one of which ,i should like to have either a drawing or a photograph1 that it may serve for the ends of my life4 ,if instead of me and my linen helmet1 and trousers kept up by a sash we had had one of the ,spaniards1 who ages ago1 perhaps1 landed in the unknown neighbouring island of the ,gente ,hermosa1 the 8,beautiful ,people0--some bearded man with butgonett1 and velvet hose and jerkin1 the picture might have been that of a knight-errant in fairyland4 ,such a faraway image it made to me1 as ,i looked down either way to the earnest face of the dwarf framed in the fruits of his garland1 or the politely anxious eyes and moving bosom of the young virgin of the village1 as we stalked on almost abreast1 in the silence1 making threefold tracks of very different shapes in the smooth wet beach2 until the rain broke down1 and then ,i ran back1 supported and clung to by my improbable companions4 ,as the day closes it is still raining4 ,a sort of glow is in the grey of the rain1 so that it reddens all the shadows among the trees4 ,far off toward ,tutuila there is high up a great opening where the sky is as of an apple-green that has been washed with the lavender of the rain clouds3 big cumulous clouds round out1 made gold by the sunset4 ,the light fades away1 and all becomes blurred except always the cumulus in the distant green sky4 ,the lamps are lit and we turn to dinner4 ,in the evening afterward we got to talking about the legends and superstitions1 and we were for a long time merely getting about it4 ,there had been a promise to have something written out for us of old verses1 and then songs were sung1 ordered from a number of girls4 ,these were mostly poems concerning the son of the old chief1 who died in the last war1 and about whom1 says ,maua1 he is always thinking4 ,i watched his face and sketched it while he sat and listened4 ,he is as striking as an ,arab chief1 with the orbital bones projecting like a camel's from out of his face1 so as to make a great line of light or dark around the looking part of the visage4 ,his head recedes far up1 and his long beard drops on his thin chest4 ,this death of his son has affected him more and more1 so as to make him slightly insane4 ,maua says that he was once 8the baddest man in all ,samoa10 and that he was the greatest dancer1 and that he had invented many dances1 and that he might be tempted to-day to dance1 if only we could find some person to accompany him with songs to suit4 ,i think that ,maua is wrong1 for the chief has become missionary1 and is quite absorbed in that sort of thing4 ,as ,i was saying1 he has a splendid1 fanatic1 ,arab head2 and so the evening has closed with the old chief's listening to these memories of his son4 ,i am frightfully tired with listening to the legends struggled for4 ,perhaps a verse or so of some of the songs might be worth saving out of this wreck of dreaminess4 ,it was a pure1 complimentary1 ,samoan idea1 poetic only perhaps because we cannot help translating the feeling as well as the words2 it was about a chief the singer sang--a young and handsome chief--and she said how natural it was for the girls to wish for the hero's notice1 8for the very winds that blew belonged to him1 coming as they did from his ancestral island that lies to windward40 ,but our friends are not poetic1 ,i feel sure4 ,they are intensely practical and full of common sense2 they make poetry for me4 ,and they are restful--and ,i--am sleepy1 as ,i said before4 ,wednesday ,afternoon4 ,this morning1 while it was raining1 the old chief talked of the spirits that once ruled4 ,we are told that the chief believes yet in these ideas1 but ,i cannot make it out distinctly1 neither one way nor the other4 ,he is missionary now1 and as we take his portrait1 wishes to hold the prayer-book in his hand4 ,but he tells me there are people who control the spirits 7devils1 our interpreter and we have called them--aitu7 and that they predict things and recover property1 bringing evil upon him who has erred until he acknowledges4 ,and this power is not given to any man by inheritance1 it cannot fall upon a plebeian1 neither the son nor nephew of chief or priest1 if indeed there were priests1 for this he denies4 ,he says that his people prayed1 making oblations to the deities of the village and of the household1 and that when these were collected together1 they were eaten by them1 which1 he says1 means by those who collected--not the priests1 but the family or those attached to the chief1 who thought it time for such offerings4 ,and these were given to the bush1 if it were for the bird divinity2 to the sea1 if the divinity was the cuttlefish4 ,his was the cuttlefish1 and his family did not eat it4 ,all this1 of course1 you know more or less of2 what ,i say is of no value except insomuch that ,i heard it myself4 ,to know all here would require to be master of the language1 not to be confined by missionary ideas1 nor to be connected with such--and after all that1 to have a very receptive1 a very acute1 and a very truthful mind4 ,there are such people in the world1 but you or ,i do not find them usually writing books1 and judging questions for others4 ,these soundings of the savage mind are ,atamo's properly2 he is patient beyond belief2 he asks over and over again the same questions in different shapes and ways of different and many people1 and keeps all wired on some string of previous study in similar lines4 ,but everywhere one comes right against some secret apparently1 something that cannot be well disentangled from annoyance to the questioned one4 ,for instance1 in the question of genealogy1 ,seumanu told us that had he been interrogated some years ago in such a direction he should have struck the questioner down on the spot4 ,still we have hope1 and if any one can manage it1 ,atamo will4 ,web after web ,i have seen him weave around interpreter and explainer1 to get to some point looked for1 which may connect with something we have already acquired4 ,as many time as the spider is brushed away1 so many times he returns4 99 99 99 99 99 ,this morning talk of the world of bad spirits that do harm to man suggested to me an opening toward a side ,i had never read of or heard of4 ,were there spirits that did good as well as spirits that did harm8 ,there ,i had a door for home history4 ,yes1 there were such1 and no further than here3 his son had had such a spirit1 who went about with him and looked after him1 protected him from harm 7apparently from woman a good deal2 and took1 in such cases--as even with us--the shape of some other woman74 ,sometimes this protection would be sudden2 when he was in the way of harm1 a good spirit would appear and drive away those that might harm him1 and would sometimes lead him personally away--prevent him--as the old word goes4 ,and all knew that he was so protected2 the spirit had been seen and would only disappear when suspected4 ,otherwise1 any one might take the same for mortal man or woman--as in ,homeric story1 where ,nestor speaks and acts1 but it is ,athens all the same4 ,and had this spirit1 or such a spirit1 invariably an action only for good8 ,certainly--and nothing had ever contradicted such a view4 ,and yet--only once1 the good spirit had killed a man1 but it was for protection always1 as a guardian4 ,then1 of course1 ,i could ask no further4 ,as you see1 analogies keep coming up1 our ideas easily dropping into theirs1 and informing them--probably4 ,and had these spirits and others been apparently existing out of the world of humanity8 ,the dead became spirits and fought anew the old battles1 with a knowledge of the present2 as when a chief aitu1 known by name1 some weeks ago refused to participate in a spirit war urged on by a feminine spirit4 8,no10 he said1 8,i have been missionary1 but if ,i am attacked ,i can defend myself4 ,go on with your war2 if you are successful you do not need me2 if you are pursued too far1 and into my territory1 ,i shall be here40 ,nene is the name of this male aitu who has 8joined the church40 444 ,and the dead killed at sea turn into fish1 into turtles1 into sea-life4 ,now how to clear these from the original spirits existing of themselves8 ,there was one1 ,tangaloa1 who1 our friend said1 might be supposed to be a distorted vision of the true ,god4 ,but that you know as well as ,i4 ,here the talk drifted away to a question that1 as you see1 naturally connects4 ,were offerings made to spirits as being ancestors8 ,were offerings made to ancestors8 ,no2 of that they were sure--not even if ,hawaii was different4 ,and they did not care if the black pig meant anything in ,oahu--to them 7and the white teeth shone7 it was only good to eat4 ,if it crossed them in war excursions1 it was only good to kill1 but the bird and the cuttlefish1 they were not to be hurt2 and the bird might mean a good deal to them as it gave them omens by its flight--according to its favourable direction or the reverse1 or by its cry4 ,but they had1 above all1 a great divine omen1 the rainbow--which presided over all4 ,when for the people here it was bent over ,tutuila1 then things were against them2 if it stood against them they were not to go into the war1 but wait4 ,it1 however1 it went with them1 its end turned toward the enemy1 then they were protected by it1 and had victory promised them4 ,we passed the morning in such talk4 ,then we sailed out to the little island of ,nuu ,tele opposite1 an old crater1 and waited a while1 while ,atamo explored it1 thinking to find out matters which might affect present theories4 ,he found raised beaches1 stratified1 and shells and pebbles in the rock1 so that it was mud once1 and forced up and not submerged1 all to the greater confusion and defeat of ,mr4 ,darwin4 ,but as these triumphs are out of my line of momentary record1 ,i have only to say that ,i found in the little savage girl-wife of our momentary host the type of little ,sifa of ,tutuila1 which had almost been lost to us4 ,the usual ,samoan face is heavy and not wild1 suggests good nature and practical views2 poetry is not in them but from them4 ,it is we who put it there1 because their bodies mean to us possibilities of expression which we associate with intentions that have not yet been developed in them4 ,nerves they have not2 it is only occasionally that one recognizes any permanent tendency to emotion1 often by some trifle that is not always pleasant1 as in the sadder face of some dwarf or joker1 or as in our host's face1 over which great sorrow has passed--or perhaps again in such a 8chevalier0 as ,mataafa1 whose character is rare the world over4 ,our day passed pleasantly1 and as ,i write1 the other end of the room is filled with all these good people lying in a jumble together2 ,maua and the taupo who is pulling at him and lying on him in part2 another girl's head under hers1 while all their feet run up on the posts4 ,others yet1 lying flat1 continue the circle1 singing together1 and sometimes1 without rising1 beating a siva movement on their own breasts or on each other's4 ,four of our men1 of the biggest1 sit far away in the dark1 with crossed legs1 upright1 immovable1 like ,egyptian statues3 or1 as ,illustration3 ,,samoan ,,girl ,,carrying ,,palm ,,branch ,i close my letter1 like sphinxes1 have bent down to the ground from their hips1 all lost in the dark1 with large heads and shoulders and outstretched arms4 ,lepa1 ,thursday1 ,dec4 #dth4 ,we were out to sea1 in the sun and rain1 between nine and eleven o'clock1 and passed the two islands1 large blocks of green and brown on the green and blue water4 ,we came here first1 pulling through the reef1 straight to the enormous beach1 where our eyes were at once charmed by the theatrical1 or should ,i say geological absurdity which divided it1 cutting it right down from the steep hills behind1 to the water's edge4 ,this was a little waterfall of three cascades tumbling over some small rocks projecting far across the beach1 so that the water had1 as it were1 a stone conduit upon which it was carried from the mountain to the sea4 ,it was an absolute set piece1 quite practicable1 and if ever ,i have to design for scenery1 here is a little natural object all ready to hand4 ,the copy could be supplied with real water1 just as this one is1 and the palm trees growing upon it would conceal the machinery as they do here1 only--if ever ,i do it1 ,i shall be told that it is unnatural--just as it looks here4 ,why does the water run on knife edges1 instead of taking the easier lines of depth1 and tearing up the sand for a bed8 ,i might explain how1 for ,atamo is full of geology1 and it is not as mysterious1 of course1 as it looks4 ,but ,i give it up1 and content myself with sketching the little girl between the posts opposite me4 ,we are in the faletele 7guest-house7 quite near the water4 ,some thirty feet off from us cocoanuts hang over the beach and the sea4 ,right behind us are rocks upon which is perched a new and handsome ,samoan house1 half-hidden in the green of trees4 ,a promontory1 finished by a little island with palms1 cuts off the further end of that long beach which is divided by the cascade with its rocks and palms4 ,toward us1 on one side1 falls the column of water1 which ploughs a little canal into the sea4 ,there our men are bathing1 standing up under the falling water1 and later ,i shall be there too4 ,the other end of our bay1 near us1 rounds away behind trees1 and a mound1 upon which is a fishing hut under palms4 ,in our house the central beams that support the roof1 come together like a ,v4 ,all the posts and beams are decorated with flowers and leaves1 and in the centre1 near the great branching post1 stands a table covered with siapu 7bark cloth7 and with flowers in pots1 as on an altar1 say a ,buddhist table altar4 ,some of our men are dragging up the boats1 but ,i am too lazy to turn to see them place them under the shelter of the cocoanuts4 ,the taupo1 is looking at me while ,i am writing1 or at ,atamo similarly occupied4 ,she is bored1 but ,i can't help it4 ,i could not entertain her if anything depended upon it4 ,it ought to be cool1 but the beach sends up hot waves of air1 and my taupo's cocoanut oil melts into it languidly4 ,the name of the place is 8,a ,break ,between ,waves10 and the name of the taupo's brother1 that heavy youngster1 who is talking to ,seu at the boats1 is ,break ,love4 ,there is a connection that ,i feel1 but you had better make it out yourself4 ,if the chief is heavy1 the taupo is clever1 and makes herself agreeable4 ,her sister helps her in every attempt4 ,they are not as dignified as one can remember1 and perhaps had we kept to another line of travel1 and visited higher types of aristocracy1 it might have been different4 ,but they are easily amused and talk much1 and are great beggars--and gently1 are willing in the same way to marry us1 one of them proposing to marry us both herself1 and even asking at the last moment1 8,are you going away8 ,i thought you would have married me this morning40 ,all this is joke1 with perhaps a look to possibilities3 for do ,i not remember how two little taupos very missionary1 far back in ,savaii1 changed their little easy manners to seriousness1 and almost aggressiveness1 when some madcap hinted that we were on a wife-hunt1 and had come all this way for it4 ,those two little pieces would not allow the liberties of five minutes before1 nor would they let me go without having catechised me seriously as to these chances--to which they were willing to submit2 but they wished beforehand to know whether there was anything in it4 ,we had a siva at night1 in which our young lady figured with the great grenadier's cap that looks so savage and soldierly1 and which is really becoming1 the heavy faces growing gentle and refined under this heavy contrast4 ,but it is painful to wear1 being bound on tight1 and how our taupo could stand it for three hours1 as she did1 ,i know not4 ,she danced and sat down alongside of us alternately for nearly four mortal hours4 ,through all the dances there was a great display of pantomime1 mostly comic1 made none the less by the gravity of some of the performers who acted in reality as a dancing chorus2 so that right through the crowd of delirious young men and women passed in and out a fine old ,roman senator--,i cannot better define him1 who never smiled and who wore his drapery as do the antique statues1 and whose mind evidently saw other meanings in the steps than did the other dancers4 ,i could almost have wished that there had been some meaning in this accident1 some deep1 deep thought in this tragedy woven into the cloth of the fun1 but ,i believe that it was merely the pleasure taken by the old man in feeling that his limbs were as vigorous and as supple as long ago4 ,and we went to bed1 the entire company remaining alive and interested for several hours after our succumbing to sleep4 ,i could hear late in the night ,charley and the taupo crunching sugar-cane and whispering while ,charley1 during the whole evening1 had lain sound asleep4 ,but sitting up late in the moonlight is ,samoan4 ,before ,i fell asleep1 my mind went over some of the historical developments of the theatre4 ,i have certainly been instructed that at the beginning complete realistic performance is impossible4 ,and yet ,i had been listening to a play in which every possible combination of a fin de sicle manner of looking at things had been slowly and elaborately combined4 ,was it then that this society in which ,i am now living1 savage as it seems to us1 is really a very modified form of an ancient structure of life8 ,or did these good people1 when they sailed from the dim ,havaiki1 bring already1 in their habits of mind1 modified trainings of earlier civilization8 ,any similar views would please me1 but ,i should be better pleased to consider that the rules have not been accurately defined and that we don't yet really know enough about it4 99 99 99 99 99 ,this story of nothing ,i conclude to-day at ,falealili1 as we get further on4 ,we were overwhelmed with gifts at parting1 so much so as to make us feel as if perhaps the only fair thing would be to marry one of the girls1 as an adequate return4 ,then with the return gifts we might have run away4 ,a wife brings mats usually1 and gives much support1 as is well known by one young gentleman ,i hear of1 a captain of some schooner1 who has wives in different places4 ,each of them in turn supports him when he appears1 and as long as his visits are regular1 and there is no preponderance or excess or skimping in his remainings1 everything goes well1 and there seem to be no jealousies4 ,in fact1 ,i think that the having to provide would be a great reducer of those sentiments that flourish most where there is idleness and pampering4 ,let us say that the subject is too complicated1 for ,i feel already as if ,i had carried over too much of this letter into the next one4 ,i am concluding now twenty-four hours later1 at ,falealili1 while waiting for letters1 and appearing to listen to the complimentary speeches of a tulafale who rejoices in the name of 8,tuiloma1 ,king of ,rome40 ,he has a good deal of style1 but not enough for such a name1 while the chief of ,lepa1 who drops in to explain his reasons for being absent during our visit1 has a fine head and makes a pretty good picture4 ,he has fought against ,seu1 and they talk over old times4 ,i am told that he fought well1 and he looks martial1 as ,i have tried to hint above4 ,otherwise there is nothing to speak of1 at least for me1 for ,i am miserable4 ,it is very hot1 and ,i feel the want of air4 ,i have tried to sketch two little girls making wreaths near by1 and they have been driven away to let some tulafale come in and make the ordinary speeches1 to which ,seu listens with his usual impassive manner4 ,if he is bored no one would know it4 ,much laughter goes on after the ceremonies4 ,but nothing can restore the little girls4 ,one is a half-breed--very light1 her already fair hair bleached with ,samoan liming1 and she has grey eyes and a very ,samoan face4 ,her father is dead and she lives absolutely like a ,samoan4 ,i follow her movements1 trying to detect some differences in this little creature1 whose fate might have been just as much the other way4 ,all that ,i can notice is that while ,i sketch she moves less than the others1 and is content with fewer gestures4 ,the fluidity of the pure brown blood is not quite there4 ,i have told you1 ,i suppose1 often enough1 how difficult it is to catch them in a drawing1 unless they are asleep4 ,i have never been able to get a whole minute for any position4 ,seu sometimes remains quiet for a few minutes1 and some of the greater people or men of character are disposed to be steady4 ,but usually it is perpetual movement skilfully disguised under an appearance of quiet4 ,the half-breed was1 as ,i said1 more quiet and steady than her darker companions3 our little half-breed ,charley--sometimes referred to by the old joke of ,charley ,yow1 the ,boy ,fiend--who serves as interpreter and boy-of-all-work1 being a boy1 is still more restless than any of our boys4 ,he will lie asleep absolutely as if dead1 but if awake he must wriggle4 ,he bends over in true ,samoan way1 but as he has neither ,samoan grace nor strength1 ,i half expect to see him put his head between his legs1 dog-fashion1 so as to be able to take a convenient look up his back4 ,he plays with his toes and rubs his fingers meditatively1 with the ,european side of his mind1 on the rims of our glasses and saucers4 ,even the rainwater gets a taste of cocoanut oil when he has been about4 ,yet he is clearly 8,fa ,samoa10 and lazy as he is and pleased at playing with his fingers on a string tied round his nose1 or trying the edge of a knife1 he is serviceable as a ,samoan4 ,when we put him to the task of interpreting a little ,samoan poem a few days ago1 he showed an unwilling capacity of mind not unlike what ,i could remember of schooldays when we had to put ,chaucer into modern ,english1 and when we bent all our energy into avoidance4 ,the future of the half-breed is an interesting question here1 but too much for my present dreaming4 ,december #fth4 ,later1 last evening1 during which ,i was absolutely idle like ,charley1 and unlike ,charley1 because ,i was not well1 we had a sort of abbreviated domestic siva4 ,we were politely asked if we should like one1 and as politely we explained that we were determined to go to bed early1 but that we should dislike to interfere1 and would look on as long as we were not too sleepy4 ,the little daughter of the tulafale1 herself the tulafale 7spokeswoman7 of the chief's daughter1 who is the taupo1 explained to us that being 8,misionali10 she could not figure in it nor be present1 and if she were ,misionali ,i think she did as well4 ,the siva was sung sotto voce1 and danced softly by three or four women1 probably with reference to not disturbing while we looked on--in some curious confusion of meaning4 ,the taupo1 who is very stolid1 with the expression of a judge of the ,supreme ,court1 danced with nothing on but her tipuka or upper garment1 put about her waist1 so that the hole through which the head is put in this variety of 8poncho0 exposed the least polite parts of her back4 ,and as ,i referred to her gravity of expression1 or want of expression1 by an allusion to the expressionless look of a judge on the bench1 ,i might slip in here a pretty anecedote of the bright little daughter of one of our celebrities1 from whom you will see that she inherits4 ,last winter her father gave her a chance to see the cabinet officers together1 and on her return she was asked1 8,well1 were they nice80 8,not nice1 but funny60 she said4 ,well1 so with the dance2 and danced by the virgin of the village and her chaperon it had a curious side4 ,and it was funny enough1 with the fun underscored and interlined and underlined1 as it were1 by verbal comment4 ,apparently the true dances that are not played are innocent as well as beautiful1 but when the drama comes in1 the dance follows the usual history of the drama4 ,this is a great missionary centre1 and to-morrow will be ,sunday1 a day on which we shall have to rest because the people here are sabbatarians of a very strict kind1 and do not approve of travelling on the ,sabbath4 ,our men tell us things of the habits of travelling2 they are all1 ,seu's men and ours1 except our two tulafales1 whose behaviour is all that one could ask for1 young gentlemen whose glory consists in the constant and sometimes successful assault of feminine virtue4 ,as they explain it1 they would be laughed at at home1 if they could boast of no conquests during the trip2 but owing to this being an 8,european malaga10 because we are ,european1 they are on relative good behaviour2 so that they lead in prayer and sing hymns1 and are in other matters quite good boys4 ,i have no doubt also that besides the fact that ,saturday night and ,sunday will give them plenty of feminine society1 they also do not think that it's quite the proper thing to travel on ,sunday4 ,so you see that one can go far and see the same thing1 and that1 as ,i told you in ,japan1 the world is fairly round4 ,expressions vary1 but the meaning is the same4 ,illustration3 ,,two ,,taupos ,,dancing ,a 8,,game ,,of ,,ball40 ,,samoa ,i am writing now from the next station called ,vao ,vai1 8,between ,waters10 a queer little place looking like some ,african possibility4 ,little houses are bunched together near a little river close by us1 and in front of us1 seen through trees1 far out1 is a little island full of palms1 which the taupo tells me1 is used as a resort for sick people who go out to get fresher air4 ,she herself explains that we shall have no siva because they are sad for the loss of a young man1 a half-brother of hers1 brother of the taupo whose dance and dress ,i described above1 and who was the taupo of the preceding village4 ,our good girl is missionary besides1 which will secure us the greater rest from sivas4 ,her brother's death was explained to us last night4 ,he had gone over to ,malua1 where is the theological school1 on a trip1 with only one attendant1 and fell ill and died here on his return1 having1 they assured me1 been beaten to death by devils4 ,so he said himself before death1 and in proof of it1 his body was sore4 ,moreover1 just before his death1 he ran out into the woods1 in the dark4 ,but being caught by the leg1 by some tulafale or person of importance1 and asked who he was1 he gave his father's name1 thus proving beyond a doubt that he was possessed by his father's ghost1 ,i have not yet been able to get the connection between his father's spirit and those who beat the son to death4 ,but that may turn up yet1 for the subject is in everybody's mouth4 ,i ought1 perhaps1 to add that the young chief had had a cold before1 with inflictions of pneumonia1 and had been somewhat relieved by medicine from the ,catholic priest at some adjoining station1 but the devils were too much for him4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to this little hut1 looking out toward the enormous space of the sea1 nothing growing in front of us but two half-cut-down bread-fruit trees1 on the line of the horizon and the little island just outside of the reef1 and the long line of breakers extending right and left and as far as one can see--have just come your letters carried to me across the mountains1 in a great rain4 ,i have been in some anxiety for them1 for ,i had had only partial news since ,september #eth1 which was three months ago4 ,newspapers have also come from ,san ,francisco and from ,auckland1 giving telegraphic news as far as ,november #agth1 from ,san ,francisco to ,november #fth2 so that our evening is full of incident4 ,there has been a political change through the elections at home that alters the positions of persons1 and gives one a sort of feeling that all is not ,samoan peace4 ,and the financial news affects us with doubt as to long delays1 for drafts on the ,barings1 or on any one1 indeed1 will not be quite as easy to use in these little communities4 ,so that this event is a turning point to me out of the world1 as well as to the great people in it4 ,to increase the resemblance to home1 where ,illustration3 ,,from ,,our ,,hut ,,at ,,vao-,,vai1 ,,samoa little habitual matters accompany great ones1 we find in this little far out-of-the-way place fresh butter for the first time in many months1 and milk4 ,so that with ,awoki's cooking1 we interrupt for this evening and to-morrow morning1 the course of our ,samoan food4 ,it is amusing to notice what importance this event has assumed1 and to realize that to-morrow1 ,sunday1 will be so much more pleasant for this little change4 ,sunday4 ,this morning ,i watched from behind my mosquito-bar1 where ,i was pretending to sleep1 the procession of people going to church for the second time4 ,i had been waked at dawn by the little bell1 which sounded like a steamboat call for all aboard4 ,against the background of the sea filed continuously the parishoners1 grown people and children1 most of the women with the hats that belong to their idea of church4 ,but among them were some women with 8fine mats0 around their waists1 that contrasted with the queer ,european headdress apparently made only for this and similar markets4 ,these contrasting individuals were1 ,i was told1 the watchers upon the dead man of whom ,i spoke1 he who was killed by devils in the woods4 ,these fine mats were their guerdon--for he was a chief's son4 ,had he been the chief1 my informant said1 mourning would have been general2 the people would have had half their hair cut1 and this would be done perforce to such as neglected it4 ,with this information ,i woke up officially1 just as ,i saw our men filing away to church4 ,later they came back to ask for canned salmon for their girls4 ,nothing has occurred4 ,i have sketched most of the time4 ,atamo has been over to see the little islands1 for the pleasure of paddling in a canoe4 ,the taupo did not go1 whether from missionary sabbatical feeling1 or whether she was afraid1 or whether the men would not let her1 for they said that a woman did not know how to take care of a boat over a surf2 rather an ungallant way of looking at it1 for the women we have known1 pretty generally paddled about well enough inside the reef4 ,our little taupo1 who was very nice and quiet1 spent most of the evening playing with the men4 ,i have spent the day in intellectual idleness1 as ,i told you1 as the place is very small1 being half surrounded by a little river1 and crowded with small houses4 ,i have moralized in a depressed way1 and in this direction3 would we at home1 if things were clean enough about us to deceive us1 find it amusing to sit in an ,irish shanty1 as we do now in this one8 ,we should have pigs about and occasional dogs1 and kind1 ugly old women and some politics4 ,and the resemblance grows more and more as ,i look at it from the dirty point of view4 ,things are thrown out of doors to the pigs1 who are so convenient to put things into you wish to get rid of1 as ,mrs4 ,bell used to say4 ,and the ducks wander about everywhere1 and ,i watch the way the pigs eat cocoanuts1 etc4 ,the chief and the others1 the tulafales1 have made speeches and drunk kava over and over again1 all day1 in an unofficial manner4 ,and ,i am so sleepy1 so sleepy that ,i almost fell off my chair1 for ,i have a chair or camp stool--during evening prayers4 ,december #hth4 ,saagapu4 ,anagapu is the name of the chief4 ,we are a little further along the coast1 having passed through a dangerous reef1 and waiting for a better tide1 which we shall have to-morrow4 ,the village is large1 laid out handsomely in length1 a little tedious in its regularity1 well planted with trees1 and with swamps behind and on the two sides that confine it4 ,we have had the longest tulafale talk that ,i have ever suffered from1 and ,i am prostrated with weariness and with sultriness of the air4 ,we had feared heavy rain and looked with anxiety at two great water-spouts circling in the hills as we sailed along4 ,there is an arrangement of mountains just behind us1 probably some ancient crater1 that looked as if it must be always in a boil of rain4 ,there is nothing to do1 fatigued as ,i am1 but to go to sleep1 and try to brighten up for a siva that ,i foresee4 ,the people are many4 ,there are lots of children1 and girls who strut about careless of their lava-lavas1 for this is a place unfrequented by foreigners and by the elegant people of ,apia4 ,i see two blacks1 or ,solomon islanders1 dressed in lava-lavas in the ,samoan way1 who have taken refuge here1 having escaped from the ,german plantation further on1 which we hope to reach to-morrow evening4 ,the chief tells me that they are quiet and well-behaved1 and that they go to school like the others about them4 ,all these blacks work harder than the ,polynesians1 and even their anxiety of look1 as they come with hesitation toward us has a sort of possibility of action that ,i do not find in the browns of a similar class4 ,i need not have suffered so much from the conventional speeches4 ,our host1 on my waking from an attempt at sleep1 stretches himself against the post nearest to me1 and breaks out in most vernacular ,english1 stating that he has been a little everywhere1 and has been away from home for some twenty years4 ,he has been as far as ,new ,york1 which he says is not a good place for a sailor2 in ,china many times1 in ,japan1 in ,india1 in ,france1 in ,england1 etc4 ,he has conversed with the ,american ,indians and states that he can understand their 8lingo10 as he names it1 from its similarity to the ,pacific tongues spoken by the ,polynesian4 ,he has theories on these subjects1 and believes ,illustration3 ,,tulafales ,,speech ,,making4 ,,vao-,,vai1 ,,samoa that there is a connection of race between the ,hawaiians and the ,samoans and ,tahitians1 and he extends it to the ,malays in the west1 and the ,american ,indians in the east4 ,and as ,i listen to him1 ,i keep thinking that the story of the entire ,pacific is probably the only explanation of the ,polynesian4 ,i should like to hear more1 but personages of importance again come in and more talk of the society kind recurs4 ,later we are asked if we wish a siva4 ,we hesitate for every reason4 ,first1 we hear rumours of a siva being prepared for us further back in some place already passed1 owing to some letters of ,tofae that announced us4 ,secondly1 we are not impressed by our taupo1 who besides want of beauty has also a discontented look which in some grotesque way reminds me of modern ,english high-art pictures--something grumpy4 ,then ,i have made up my mind to have a good sleep if possible2 so that we say yes1 if only the siva can be in another house2 then we add that if we are too tired we propose to leave4 ,we find1 as usual1 our boat crew extremely interested in the subject and in the performers1 and the neat little house where we go in the dark is absolutely filled with spectators4 ,a place has been set apart for us1 filled by our two camp stools1 and we are in time4 ,the performers are full of anxiety to begin1 and suddenly enters our taupo4 ,in the dim light her sullenness looks like calm1 her big headdress covers enough of her face to make the lines look delicate2 and she comes in with a sort of hop of assurance1 and throws herself down an entirely different person4 ,she has authority and grace1 and the 8,i don't know what0 that belongs to any one completely sure of a good professional standard4 ,and she smiles with excitement1 her smile widening with the cocoanut oil upon her face4 ,and so the siva was full of fire1 and danced in splendid time4 ,then we were able to leave and managed to get a good night's rest4 ,the floor when it is well covered with mats makes an excellent bed1 and when one is sure and protected from mosquitoes everything else fades easily into sleep4 ,in the morning we had a short talk with our host1 who complained that he could not get away again to his wanderings4 ,samoa might be a good place enough1 but he was bored4 ,he had to submit1 however1 to the head of the family1 who refused to give him leave4 ,the old man1 as he called him1 using our phrase1 kept him confined to his chiefdom4 ,family authority was thus vested in his uncle1 our friend ,seu1 who had the name1 and though the chief's authority was his own for his chiefdom1 outside of that the head of the family was master4 ,this was the ,roman law in its integrity2 our chief personally was as a son1 and only free when exercising a function4 ,even were he required to leave and come to his uncle in ,apia1 he should have to do so1 just as he was bound not to go off as a sailor again4 ,illustration3 ,,taupo ,,dancing ,,the ,,standing ,,siva4 ,,samoa ,our conversation was interrupted by loud shouts1 and the sound of much trampling--and then by shrill cries of women and of children1 apparently in derision1 for there was much laughter4 ,a girl was running away under the fire of sarcasm1 and dodging from one house to another1 which she would again leave1 probably from finding more trouble inside4 ,and we were connected with it4 ,one of our crew had been too much taken with the charms of one of the siva dancers1 or she had felt his eloquence too deeply4 ,she had run off with him after the dance1 and he had made promises2 among others she believed that he would take her with him in our boat1 and there she was on time--ready to go--only to find that it could not be--and that he must have known it4 ,in fact1 the women kept repeating to her that she must have lost her senses1 that she must be an impertinent fool to think of sitting in a boat with such high chiefs4 ,siamau1 our man1 was slightly downcast1 but not too much so--he was still a conqueror1 but the poor girl was--well--she was to be pitied4 ,her trial and humiliation lasted all the time that we remained1 and ,i was glad when we pulled away4 ,the tide served us1 and the wind1 and we made a long pull to the place where ,i am now writing1 ,satapuala1 only some twenty-five miles from home4 ,satapuala was as we had seen it before1 on our last malaga2 but its young chief1 whose dancing ,i had hoped to see again1 was away--to visit ,tamasese1 the former king set up by the ,germans--at the other end of the island--at ,lufilufi1 which we had passed without calling1 in our anxiety to remain outside of the war of politics4 ,the guest-house was decorated as before1 with palm branches on ceilings and posts and central pillars1 and flowers everywhere--a most beautiful greenhouse4 ,and the big taupo1 the sister of the chief1 was there1 as amiable and dignified as before4 ,in the evening she danced again1 this time without the support of her brother4 ,she did not seem as good a dancer4 ,i noticed1 however1 that more than any one else1 she used her hands and fingers to carry out the motion1 and that she finished1 as it were1 the movements begun more rudely and vigorously by the men4 ,she had the same enchanting style and manner1 and even at the end1 when a standing dance was given more outrageous than ever1 she retained1 with her smile1 a look of not knowing what it was all about1 that was as good form as ,i suppose an official virgin could assume in such a plight4 ,that was the end4 ,i take it1 that as ,maua said1 this being an ,european malaga1 things were made more formal and mitigated on our account4 ,we are waiting for the tide with which we shall row straight to ,apia1 in about five hours--over the well-known sea4 ,evening4 ,we rowed back in true ,samoan way1 our rowers making a show of pulling and singing a great deal1 with an energy that had been better thrown into the oars4 ,in fact1 they danced a siva of return4 ,the worst and laziest of the lot1 an amiable fellow with a persistent smile always on his face1 actually rose and fell on his seat with excitement4 ,the other boat1 our own1 with ,samau and our own four men1 kept up well with our ten rowers4 ,on boards placed to let them squat ,samoan way1 under the awning1 sat a chief we had taken with us1 who wore a great white turban and kept fingering his beard1 and a young woman1 a cousin of ,seu's--so that they looked ,oriental enough4 ,in ,seu's boat1 ,tamaseu1 the tulafale1 the strokeoar1 alone rowed vigorously1 though the oldest and least strong4 ,he gave out the chant and pulled to it1 while ,seumanu1 standing in the bow1 guided us over the shallow water1 and ,atamo steered4 ,as we turned round the last point1 in the light of the sunset1 we crossed a large boat manned and paddled by girls1 all of them dressed in red1 with green garlands around their heads1 and for a figurehead a little girl sitting upon the bows1 her crossed legs hanging over in front4 ,two black figures in the stern were the nuns of the convent to which the girls belonged1 and they were all returning from a holiday4 ,it was a pretty sight--nothing is more beautiful than the united movement of paddles and of heads thrown back in chanting1 for of course some hymn carried them on1 undistinguishable for us from a pagan tune4 ,december #bdth4 ,nothing new1 except social and political news3 the excitement at the ,chief ,justice's coming1 and the innumerable ,samoan reports thereupon2 and ,fanua's engagement to an ,australian business man1 and her marriage for the last of the year4 ,there are many 8cancans0 thereupon the question of marriage in due form1 or of a ,samoan marriage which does not bind the white man who leaves1 being much discussed4 ,it was even proposed that she should marry first some ,samoan--why exactly would be too complicated to explain4 ,meanwhile ,i am trying to work a little and recover from the dissipation of the malaga4 ,the days have drifted along1 and here we are upon ,christmas1 the weather very hot1 and not recalling what you have at home except by contrast4 ,yesterday we had a great storm1 the wind blowing the tortured branches of the palm in great gestures against the sky4 ,few were out except the boys1 who played cricket all day in the rain1 and conveniently dropped their clothes4 ,at night1 the rooms were filled near the lamps with small flies that crusted them1 and covered the tables in thousands1 so that we could neither work nor read4 ,through the crevice of doors and windows a fine dust was blown1 the broken fragments of dead vegetation4 ,we are only six feet above the sea1 and during the night the dash of rain against our wall sounded in my dreams like the lashing of the surf4 ,in the morning the flies that had lain in heaps of thousands had disappeared4 ,i saw the last carried away by the laggards of an army of ants1 which had pounced upon them during the night or early dawn4 ,i have been watching some three girls and a boy who have been sitting or playing about near me4 ,strictly speaking1 only one1 a grown-up girl1 has been sitting4 ,the others have placed themselves occasionally on the high bench to which the neighbourhood resort at night for a lazy stretch and infinite talk4 ,but these children were never quiet1 for the two hours ,i watched them4 ,most of the time has been taken up by wrestling4 ,the boy1 who is the smallest1 was at first thrown by the girls1 but as they taught him1 he managed to keep his own fairly--until the elder girl was enlisted in the sport1 and kept throwing him and the others1 according to rule1 for she carefully showed them the proper grip and some first movements4 ,all this is a type of the manner by which constant exercise rounds them out1 and ,i could not but appreciate how the little girl 7of eight perhaps71 when she was not wrestling herself1 danced up and down continuously1 in an involuntary impatience at having nothing to do in the way of siva4 ,vaiala1 ,near ,apia4 ,upolu1 ,dec4 #be1 '#ij4 ,this is ,christmas ,day4 ,i am seventeen hours1 ,i think1 ahead of you in that fact2 so that at this moment you are only running about for the presents and the ,christmas tree1 but ,i cannot wait for you4 ,it is such a ,christmas as they have here2 they call it ,kilimasi1 and do not quite make the joy and fuss over it that we do1 having been christianized by the ,wesleyans4 ,and ,i have not told you the whole truth2 when the missionaries came1 they miscalculated the time1 so that in many islands they run a day ahead1 not having dared to acknowledge a mistake that might have imperilled their other teachings1 for ,christianity was inextricably entangled with cotton goods1 gunpowder1 etc4 ,so you see1 these people were like ourselves1 and could not separate one kind of truth from another1 a deficiency which must have troubled you in ,new ,york1 as it does me both in ,new ,york and elsewhere4 ,but it is legally ,christmas to-day1 as ,i began to say1 and a holiday1 which ,i can only distinguish from other days1 because there seem to be fewer people idling and lying about4 ,the convict also is not at work1 he who labours near us1 weeding and cutting down twigs1 when he is not sitting and talking to his admirers1 who decorate him with flowers and make wreaths for him4 ,but even this would not be an infallible guide1 for the day before yesterday the wife of the very chief who had brought this man before the consuls for punishment 7he had stolen the consular flag halyards--why1 no one knows71 and who had pined in court for thirty lashes and six months' imprisonment--which were not given--the wife of the chief1 ,i say1 came to ask us1 as great chiefs ourselves1 if we thought that the consuls would let the prisoner have a few days off for fishing4 ,and we strongly urged her to ask for it1 as a reasonable request--at least1 in the comic opera4 ,the other convict1 who is a great fraud1 has been occupied in ferrying people over the main river 7the bridge having gone down in the last storm1 and we people who wear trousers and petticoats not liking to wade over74 ,but he also is variable as an index1 for he usually employs a small boy of his tribe to do the work1 while he lies in a little hut that he has built1 and sleeps or eats1 crowned with flowers1 like a jubilator4 ,i was telling ,mr4 ,stevenson of these details1 upon his last call1 and he interrupted a description of the tyrannical conduct of the ,french in ,tahiti and the ,marquesas1 by the story of a visit he had paid to the prisons there with the inspector4 ,there was no one in the prison for men3 8,monsieur10 explained the gendarme1 8c'est jour de fte1 et j'ai cru bien faire de les envoyer la campagne40 ,visit then to the women's prison4 8,mais o sont vos bonnes femmes8 ,monsieur1 je ne sais pas au juste1 mais1 je crois1 qu'elles sont en visite40 ,he tells me that though ,french rule is of course wrong in principle1 therein differing from ,english or ,german1 the gendarmes are a good lot1 whom it is a privilege to know4 ,i have run on into this because ,i have been thinking while writing of my having told you that ,i intended to go to the ,marquesas and see ,typee4 ,i am slowly drifting that way1 but my enthusiasm is dashed somewhat by what ,i hear4 ,i am told that there are scarcely any more ,typeeans--and they are clothed to-day1 as indeed1 ,i fear1 are most islanders who are handsome1 except the good people here1 who still preserve the real decencies to some extent4 ,and that is why ,i am lingering here1 as ,i see for the first time1 and probably for the last1 a rustic and ,botian antiquity1 and if ,i live to paint subjects of the 8nude10 and 8drapery10 ,i shall know how they look in reality4 ,as ,i write in our ,samoan house1 which is only raised a few inches from the ground1 ,i see passing against the background of sea1 figures which at a little distance and in shifting light are nearer to the little terra cottas that you like than anything one could find elsewhere4 ,young men naked to the waist1 with large draperies folded like the ,greek orator's mantle1 garlanded1 with flowers in their hair1 pass and repass1 or lie upon the grass4 ,young women--and alas6 old women--more covered1 though occasionally draped like the men1 or with girdles of leaves1 walk about1 carrying leaf-made baskets or cocoanut water-bottles--or they sit and lounge with the young men4 ,an old man1 with his drapery partly over one shoulder has just stalked past1 holding a long staff that he puts out to full arm's length--for they use their limbs with a great spread and roundness of action4 ,four girls of different ages 7from eighteen to eight7 have been wrestling under the trees1 practising some grip--and have been teaching a boy how it is done4 ,a friendly hunch-backed dwarf has called to pay a ,christmas visit1 and to get a friendly nap4 ,like the girls1 he wears nothing but a dark-blue drapery around his waist1 and a great garland of fruit and flowers that hangs about his neck4 ,his hair has been dressed and curled in ,samoan fashion--that is to say1 it has been stiffened into shape with coral lime 7which1 when washed off1 has reddened it7 so that he has the hair of a blonde on his dark head4 ,japeta1 as he is called 7,japhet71 who by the by is rather 8missionary10 but believes in witches and devils1 and has lived in the woods--and is really very intelligent--is certainly more handsome in this way of costume than if he were to dress in the fashion of ,sixth ,avenue--or even of ,fifth ,avenue--for he is of a chief's family4 ,it is true that he has powerful arms and legs that would look well anywhere else than here1 where their dancing and jumping and their mode of sitting seems to have influenced the size of the lower limbs1 and to have given a roundness to the entire body1 that reminds one again of the ,greek statues and terra cottas4 ,for the girl form passes into the young man's and his to the older without break4 ,their dances do a great deal for this result4 ,they all dance a little from the very earliest age4 ,last night1 as ,i walked home1 ,i found a crowd of little mites practising the figures of the sitting dance1 in which the entire body is moved1 from the ends of the fingers to the tips of the toes4 ,and beautiful they are1 these dances4 ,if only ,i could paint them--but that is almost impossible2 some of the gestures could be given1 but not the rhythm4 ,and they 8sit0 badly to a painter1 and1 notwithstanding their idleness1 are rarely quiet4 ,sketching is formidable4 ,they will jump up to see what you have been doing and everybody troops all ,illustration3 ,,fagalo ,,and ,,sue1 ,,wrestling4 ,,vaiala1 ,,samoa around4 ,still1 ,i have sent and shall send some sketches home4 ,one of their dancers has just passed--an official dancer--the official 8virgin0 of the next 8village10 but one whose duty it is to entertain guests1 and see to their comfort1 and dance for them1 as also in war to go out dancing with the combatants1 as you will see in some of my sketches4 ,she was crowned with flowers1 and had a garland around her waist1 one around her neck1 and her waist was stiffened out triumphantly by the folds of fine thin mats1 worn as drapery4 ,behind her 7for she is of rank71 at a far1 respectful distance1 has passed1 also her attendant1 an old woman1 who is responsible for her1 and a tall1 big fellow1 also an attendant1 with a great drapery1 also of yellow mats1 fastened by a narrow girdle of white bark cloth4 ,we know her very well1 and did she not abuse her prerogative of anointment with cocoanut oil1 ,i should see more of her4 ,i have wandered away from my intention of wishing you a ,merry ,christmas and a ,happy ,new ,year2 our ,christmas is a hot one 7#hf to-day71 but yesterday was cold and stormy1 and the thermometer went down to #gh degrees for a time4 ,the wind blew the palms into all sorts of distressed shapes1 and sent amid a deluge of rain so much fine dust of broken foliage through the crevices of our doors as to remind me of ,tenth ,street in sultry summer1 when they are building4 ,i wrote to you from the steamer in the first days of ,october4 ,since that ,i have learned that my letter was long delayed4 ,the letters are given to the small cutter or schooner1 manned by natives1 that meets the steamer1 so as to bring letters here4 ,then she has to beat out for the upgoing steamer to ,san ,francisco to give letters to her4 ,it so happened 7and1 alas1 ,i know all about it1 for ,i was there71 that the schooner was three days at sea1 owing to calms1 so that she could not return in time1 and my letter which was aboard with me was delayed a whole month4 ,it was a queer1 an uncomfortable1 but a startling experience1 this being dropped into the boat--for we landed once and saw things in an1 informal way1 tasted the sensations of all this faraway rustic classicality with minds unprepared4 ,we spent our first day and night with native hospitality in a little out-of-the-way village1 and saw1 abbreviated1 all the innumerable pictures that ,i have had leisure to watch since then3 ,the dances and the kava-drinking and the village life1 and the boats2 all preceded by our putting into 8the little cove with a queer swell running on the beach10 just as in the old story books2 and twenty-four hours of calm in a small sailboat under the tropical heat was also a new experience4 ,so this is why my last letter was so delayed4 ,i did not know of it until long after4 ,should ,i get as far as the ,marquesas1 ,i shall write to you again1 and tell you if anything be left of ,typee1 but ,i fear that that is all over4 ,still1 ,i hear reports of some private cannibalism to which the benighted ,french object1 so that there may still be hopes4 ,but ,i am told also1 as ,i said before1 that they wear ,european clothing and that is worse than any immoral diet4 ,there are no ,grmes here and little ,french in the figures4 ,of the moderns1 ,millet and ,delacroix alone give the look of the nude alive and out of the studio4 ,also the ,venetians and the older men are not out of the facts4 ,and1 praise be to the ,maker of all 7art included71 ,i have not seen any black except at night--and even then1 8si peu1 si peu40 ,rembrandt would be happy here1 especially in the evenings1 when the cocoanut fire--that is so bright as to look bright in the day--makes a centre of light strong enough to turn the brown skins to silver and to gold1 and then passes by every gradation of the prism into nameless depths that black paint will never give4 ,my dear old painters1 even to ,van ,eyck and ,memling1 how well they 8carry0 over the globe6 ,i should write to you about ,stevenson1 but ,i suppose that you can hear more directly through his letters to his friend4 ,we have seen something of him and have been pleased4 ,he is hard at work1 so that visiting him is not a favour to him1 even though he may like it1 as reminding him of that real world of civilization which he thinks he has left for good4 ,nor have ,i written to you about politics1 that are really impressive here1 for we have saved these people from a hell of slavery under the ,germans4 ,a little gentleness on their part1 and they would have had the islands--for these people are gentle enough1 and desire rule1 but1 as they said1 8death would be better0--and fortunately we interfered4 ,i am impressed here1 as ,i have been before1 by the force that ,america could have for good1 and by the careful calculation on the part of those who know us best1 the ,germans and ,english1 upon our weakness of action and irresponsibility1 and our not knowing our enormous power4 ,the ,pacific should be ours1 and it must be4 ,vaiala1 ,jan4 #aith4 ,this afternoon another little incident of everyday life brings up again my wish that ,i could set all this world about me to the music of a comic opera--a great siva4 ,if only ,i could understand all that they say1 and yet see it as people do who do not understand so that for them the ways of other races seem perpetually funny to the eye4 ,what a charming subject ,i have now for a third act--or perhaps might ,i bring it into the first one--or should we perhaps make it an interlude1 with the siva ballet interspersed8 ,perhaps1 after all1 it makes a little opera bouff for itself4 ,this afternoon1 as ,i was telling you1 ,i noticed some agitation on and about the malae1 and around ,tofae's house1 which is next to mine4 ,this annoyed me exceedingly4 ,siva1#ab our first pet from ,tutuila1 had come to ,apia on a visit1 and the little silly darling had stumbled upon ,awoki and claimed him with all the enthusiasm these people have for him1 for his small size1 his good nature1 and his brown skin4 ,our servants and dependents are the only ones who get the truest affection and good-will2 we are too far up and too white1 and cannot play4 ,i have no doubt that notwithstanding the kindly offers we have had1 ,atamo especially1 from maidens who were looking out for an establishment--,i have no doubt1 ,i say1 that in their gentle minds was some confusion1 some wish for rank and position1 and that their real hearts went out to those with us like my little ,japanese attendant4 ,indeed did not ,faauli1 the taupo of ,sapotulafai1 the daughter of the great tulafale1 intimate that she wished to keep ,awoki with her1 and did she not say that if he tried to run off she would put him in her father's jail until we were out of sight and out of reach8 ,well1 ,siva recognized and claimed ,awoki1 and so we obtained her again4 ,i made her sit for me1 and found1 to my great pride and delight1 that ,i had never been mistaken1 and that her rustic movements in the dance were finer far than those of the girls of the great places4 ,we had seen the best first1 and had known it4 ,siva was ill at ease here2 she knew that she was considered provincial1 or as ,charley explains1 8the ,apia girls think that these ,tutuila girls are fools40 ,the same little ways1 the same condescension1 the same disdainful or inquiring look1 that we see used elsewhere1 were given by the maidens of our place to the little stranger4 ,and this afternoon1 when ,i had got her out of the way to our house1 to try to get a photograph of her with my hawk-eye camera1 that never works1 ,i was disgusted at seeing the surrounding green covered with people4 ,the younger ones singled out ,siva at once1 and with the sincerity of purpose that belongs to youth1 said to her what they thought2 that her dress was this or that1 that her hair was quite wrongly cut1 like a goat's1 they said1 literally1 with many such amenities4 ,all this ,siva bore as maidens with us would bear1 with a distant air and an occasional smile of pity4 ,she was a sort of relative of ,tofae's1 being herself a chief's daughter1 and could not1 ,i suppose1 be absolutely extinguished4 ,but the crowd increased very much between us and ,tofae's house1 and twice ,i had been obliged to single out some offender and drive him off with a threatened stick1 when something dawned upon me2 these people were really coming to ,tofae3 no vain curiosity had led them to surround us and sit about the grave of ,tofae's father1 and fill the greensward between it and the posts of his house4 ,something was about to take place there4 ,tofae was seriously taking counsel with some others1 and suddenly the crowd poured around his house1 the privileged ones entering it1 and one little bunch of old women slowly1 lingeringly stepping in between its posts4 ,so that ,i asked1 relieved from my own trouble1 what was it all about4 ,this was the story3 set it to music yourself and ,atamo shall write the libretto4 ,within the fold of the chief has lately been dwelling a maiden thought to be frail1 or at least of a stuff not so stern as some others4 ,perhaps she may have been there in exile for some slight misdemeanour1 and her people may have deemed it good for her to live for a time under ,tofae4 ,for me she had little charm1 if ,i do not mistake the young lady and confuse her with another young person who has also had refuge there1 having bolted from her unpleasant husband and spending some weeks in temporary viduity4 ,one of our young gallants1 and ,i am both proud and ashamed to acknowledge1 one of our own crew1 is a great admirer of female beauty1 and fixed upon this maiden as one he should like to win1 even if he had to persuade her to run away with him1 for as far as ,i know he is married1 and had never intended to set up a rival establishment in legal form4 ,nothing here in ,samoa can be hidden for any length of time1 so that a more moral place in its way it would be hard to find4 ,to pay court in the evening supposes a certain surrounding of many young people1 and often the presence of many older ones1 and our young man's wishes were understood by others than this best girl4 ,so that1 most meanly1 some of the old women began to prejudice the girl's mind against this passionate and handsome youth1 and instead of opposing her1 which might have defeated their object1 they began to tell little tales about his past1 probably exaggerated1 as they went on accumulating4 ,and as he found the girl still resisting he determined upon a straightforward course in his manly bosom1 and complained to the chief1 asking that these libellers be punished4 ,and the chief listened1 as was right1 and summoned the old ladies before his tribunal to make good what they said1 or forever after hold their peace4 ,and here they were1 come to be judged1 while friends and witnesses and neighbours circumfused them1 anxious about the outcome4 8,well10 ,i said to ,charley1 8and what will happen8 ,you have heard it all40 8,they have been telling bad things of him1 and ,tofae will punish them4 ,he will fine them and fine them high1 perhaps as much as ten dollars10 answered righteous ,charley1 feeling1 as we all did1 for the virtuous cause4 ,and then ,i withdrew1 not only because ,i wished to go to ,siv1 but ,i wished also to meditate upon the principles of eternal justice now about to be vindicated by ,tofae4 ,when the old women are silenced and put to naught1 shall our young man be strengthened in his suit8 ,and will the young lady triumphantly elope with him8 ,all these contingencies of events might appear spoiled if ,i inquired too far1 so that ,i have left it all alone1 and ,i withdraw4 ,the subject is too pretty as it stands1 and1 as ,i said before1 only requires to be set to music4 ,vaiala1 ,jan4 #bg1 #ahia4 ,we are nearer to the cannibal here in ,samoa than you would believe at first2 far away as we are from cannibal or 8devil0 countries1 we have in the hired labourers of the ,german plantation a wilder set of savages than would seem from their usual behaviour and the steady work urged out of them by their ,german masters4 ,you must not forget that these little black men1 often so gentle and sweetly smiling1 whom we see about at work--in that constant exceptions to all around us--are not absolutely converted by being taken from their cannibal native lands to work for the white man in ,samoa4 ,the smile of their white teeth1 repeated by the ivory bars or rings in their noses1 conceals1 like the gentleness of children1 depths of useless cruelty4 ,the timidity of behaviour of such as ,i had seen and described to you1 who had escaped from the plantations and were in hiding among distant ,samoan villages1 protected by the gentler brown race from recapture and return to what after all is slavery1 is not a permanent index of character4 ,when they have escaped1 and have lived in the bush a life of bare chance1 finding scanty food1 continually tracked and hunted by their masters1 often denounced by the ,samoans1 who do not trust them1 they turn both to ancient1 ferocious habits1 and to the superstitions and fears which belonged to their life at home4 ,they are always suspected of cannibalism2 and the event which has made us all more or less miserable is considered as quite a possible thing1 and likely to occur again4 ,news came to us suddenly1 out at ,vaiala1 that ,faatulia1 the wife of our friend ,seumanu1 the chief of ,apia1 had learned a dreadful thing4 ,her brother1 some weeks ago1 had sailed from the little island of ,manono1 and had neither returned there nor arrived anywhere4 ,his boat was found upturned1 and he was missing4 ,the story told to ,faatulia came from some of the black labourers1 or else from some of those who had escaped out of slavery4 ,or else it came in the ,samoan way1 so that1 though you know there is a story1 it does not require to be fathered by any human tongue4 8,there are no secrets kept in ,samoa10 says ,mataafa2 8they are always being told40 ,this is what she learned3 ,her brother1 in the last storm1 had been driven out of his course2 his canoe had been overturned1 and he had barely saved his life by swimming4 ,on reaching land in great distress1 he had found in the bush a hut1 occupied by runaway blacks1 and had asked for shelter4 ,he had slept1 but fever had taken hold of him1 and for some while he was unconscious4 ,thereupon came up the dread temptation to the black man4 ,here was that menace of superstitious harm coming from the presence of a sick man1 who might die and injure them by bringing the spirit which kills1 into their forlorn abode4 ,here was food too1 if they killed him4 ,perhaps--,i say it with doubt1 because ,i have but confused notions of the exact superstitions belonging to any one of the races ,i have not met--but the man killed and eaten is not so dangerous in the other world as the man who dies a natural death4 ,at any rate1 the story went on to say that the blacks killed ,faatulia's brother in his sleep1 ate him1 buried the bones1 and knew nothing when inquiries were made4 ,but somehow or other1 suspicion excited by something done or said made the friends of the missing man dig and find remains which1 at the time we heard the story1 were being brought down to ,faatulia1 for identification4 ,and now how shall they know8 ,the ,german firm will send their physician1 and the ,american ship will send hers1 and the question will assume a political meaning4 ,it was a sad thing to make our last call on ,faatulia1 and know that while she talked to us she was trying to forget the ugly thing lying behind the hangings of the hut4 ,seumanu was undisturbed as usual1 and bade us good-bye with all the coolness of a tulafale4 ,that same afternoon1 ,january #bgth1 we looked for the last time upon the royal face of our neighbour ,mataafa1 while he told us again to tell ,americans that ,samoans owed their lives to the ,united ,states4 ,then ,i used up my last daylight in painting a study of ,maua1 one of the boat's crew1 who endured it in a fidgety way that he took for patience4 ,he was cold1 for every hanging mat had to be opened1 to give a little light on the dark afternoon1 under the big roof of our hut4 ,and again in the morning ,i worked upon the sketch until the boatmen came up to tell me that the last moment was come4 ,maua flushed pink with joy1 over his whole naked ,illustration3 ,,maua4 ,,study ,,of ,,one ,,of ,,our ,,boat ,,crew4 ,,apia1 ,,samoa body1 when ,i told him that ,i had done4 ,the children on the village green 7malae7 came to say something and to offer little presents of shells and sea beans4 ,the steamer was whistling for me outside the reef--,atamo was on board---- ,but ,i could not be left behind--too valuable a passenger4 ,i bequeathed my best cocoanut oil to ,siakumo and the other girls1 said good-bye to ,tofae1 our chief1 and promised1 if ,i returned1 to come back under his wing4 ,samau1 our boatswain1 carried me on his back1 into the boat1 and patted my legs1 as a respectful and silent good-bye4 ,the grey water inside the reef was smooth and quiet4 ,for the last time our ,samoan crew pulled close to the shore1 to exchange tofas 7farewells7 with ,meli and her girls2 and we went on board1 where the sheep from ,australia were still huddled on the quarter-deck due to ,tahiti later4 ,in the afternoon the island1 wreathed in clouds1 was already melting away behind us4 ,,at ,,sea ,,from ,,samoa ,,to ,,tahiti ,we have had days of hard winds and grey weather1 and all the more do ,i make pictures within my mind4 ,for the ,otaheite to which we are bound has a meaning1 a classical record1 a story of adventure1 and historical importance1 fuller than the ,typee of ,melville1 which we may never see4 ,the name recalls so many associations of ideas1 so much romance of reading1 so much of the history of thought1 that ,i find it difficult to disentangle the varying strands of the threads4 ,there are many boyish recollections behind the charm of ,melville's 8,omoo0 and of ,stoddard's ,idylls1 or even the mixed pleasure of ,loti's 8,marriage40 ,captain ,cook and ,bougainville and ,wallis first appeared to me with the name of ,otaheite or ,tahiti2 and ,i remember the far away missionary stories and the pictures of their books--the shores fringed with palm trees1 the strange1 impossible mountain peaks1 the half-classical figures of natives1 and the eighteenth-century costumes of the gallant discoverers4 ,i remember gruesome pictures in which figure human sacrifices and deformed idols1 and the skirts of the uniform of ,captain ,cook4 ,what would be the fairy reality of the engravings which delighted my childhood8 ,once again all these pictures had come back to me4 ,long ago there lay1 by a ,newport wharf1 an old hulk1 relic of former days4 ,we were told that this had been one of the ships of ,captain ,cook3 the once famous ,endeavour4 ,here was the end of its romance2 now slowly rotted the keel that had ploughed through new seas and touched the shores of races disconnected from time immemorial4 ,like the ,argo1 like the little ,pinta and ,santa ,maria1 it had carried brave hearts ready to open the furthest gates of the world4 ,the wild men of the islands had seen it1 a floating island manned by gods1 carrying its master to great fame and sudden death4 ,for he was not allowed by fate to try for further ,japan1 and begin1 with the help of ,russia1 that career of conquest for ,england which she now dislikes to share with other nations1 even with those to whom she first proposed the enterprise and half the spoils4 ,on that little ship1 enormous to her eyes1 had been ,oberea1 the princess1 the ,queen of ,otaheite1 whose name comes up in the stories of ,wallis or of ,cook1 and early in the first missionary voyages4 ,oberea was the tall woman of commanding presence1 who1 undismayed1 with the freedom of a person accustomed to rule1 visited ,wallis on board his ship soon after his first arrival and the attempt at attacking him 7,july1 #agfg74 ,she1 you may also remember1 carried him1 a sick man1 in her arms1 as easily as if he had been a child4 ,i remember her in the engraving1 stepping toward ,wallis1 with a palm branch in her hand2 while he stands with gun in hand1 at the head of the high grenadier-capped marines4 ,and do you remember the parting--how the ,queen could not speak for tears2 how she sank inconsolable in the bow of her canoe1 without noticing the presents made her8 8,once more10 writes the gallant ,captain1 8she bade us farewell1 with such tenderness of affection and grief as filled both my heart and my eyes40 ,surely this is no ordinary story--this sentimental end of an official record of discovery4 ,my memory makes the picture for me3 the ship moving at last out of the reef1 with the freshened wind1 and below her level the canoe and the savage queen bent over in grief4 ,then right on without a break ,wallis ends the chapter with these words3 8,at noon the harbour from which we sailed bore ,s4 ,e4 #a_/b ,e4 distant about twelve miles4 ,it lies in latitude #ag #cjs4 longitude #aej ,w4 and ,i gave it the name of ,port ,royal ,harbour40 ,this foreign name has since yielded to the ancient native one4 ,besides the charming irrelevancy of these facts with the words describing the sentiment of eternal parting1 ,wallis's conclusion gives us the place of ,tahiti on the map1 and will help you to follow me there4 ,the name of ,wallis1 the first discoverer1 is so much overshadowed by the personality of ,captain ,cook1 that ,i think it better to give you again the story that belongs to each4 ,let us go back in mind to the date1 the second half of the last century1 #agfg4 ,the recall to me of the ships of ,christopher ,columbus emphasizes the difference between that moment and the end of the fifteenth century4 ,there were still vast spaces of sea unknown2 still the object of commerce1 of war and of discovery1 was the connection with the 8easternmost parts of ,asia40 ,what lay between was only guessed at and often avoided4 ,as when ,anson1 whom ,i have just been reading1 passed through the southern seas in #agdb1 anxious for an unbroken passage across the great ,pacific1 in order to strike a blow at the ,spaniard in ,asiatic islands1 he followed the ,spanish charts2 and in his own1 8showing the track of the ,centurion round the ,world10 there is nothing marked in the enormous blank space below the equinoctial line1 from ,south ,america to ,new ,guinea1 but the fabulous ,treasure ,islands--the ,isles of ,solomon1 placed very nearly where ,tahiti lies4 ,when ,wallis and ,bougainville came upon this island they came as ,columbus did--as discoverers2 but the times had changed2 and the meeting with a new race in this island of ,tahiti--a fifth race1 as it was named in my boyhood's school-books--affected ,european minds very differently from the manner of three centuries before1 when the ,spaniards went for the first time through a like experience4 ,it is this new introduction of modern and changed ,europe to another fresh knowledge of the savage world1 that makes the solemnity of the discovery4 ,there is also something in the sudden coming together of the two new nations1 ,england and ,france1 so different from ancient ,spain1 upon this littlest of lands most lost in the greatest spaces of the sea1 four thousand miles from the nearest mainland4 ,hence from little ,tahiti1 whose double island is not more than a hundred and twenty-five miles about1 begins the filling up of the map of discovery in the ,pacific4 ,when ,wallis arrived in ,june1 #agfg1 ,tahiti and its neighbouring island were under the rule of a chief1 ,amo or ,aamo1 as he is called by ,wallis and by ,cook4 ,he was their great chief--what we have managed to translate as king4 ,it was a moment of general peace1 and the 8happy islanders0 enjoyed in a 8terrestrial paradise0 pleasures of social life1 of free intercourse1 whose description1 even at this day1 reads with a charm of impossible amenity4 ,the wonderful island1 striking in its shape1 so beautiful1 apparently1 that each successive traveller has described it as the most beautiful of places1 was prepared to offer to the discoverer expecting harsh and savage sights a race of noble proportion1 of great elegance of form1 accustomed to most courteous demeanour1 and speaking one of the softest languages of man4 ,even the greatest defects of the ,polynesian helped to make the exterior picture of amiability and ease of life still more graceful4 ,if1 by the time that ,i return1 you have not read as much about their ancient habits and customs1 their festivals1 their dances1 their human sacrifices1 their practice of infanticide1 their wild generosity1 ,i shall write you fully about it all1 or shall make you read what is necessary4 ,what was visible of the harsher side added to the picture of the interest of mystery and contradiction4 ,the residence of this ,chief1 ,amo1 and of his wife1 ,purea or ,oberea1 as ,cook called her1 was at ,papara1 on the south shore of ,tahiti4 ,both belonged to a family whose ancestors were gods2 and they lived a ceremonial life recalling1 at this extreme of civilization1 the courtesies1 the adulation1 the flattery1 the superstitious veneration of the ,east4 ,this family and its allies had reigned in these islands and in the others for an indefinite period4 ,the names of their ancestors1 the poetry commemorating them were and are still sung1 long after the white man had helped to destroy their supremacy4 ,when ,wallis arrived at the north of the island1 ,amo and ,oberea were not far from ,papara in the south4 ,they heard of the arrival of the floating island1 whose masts were trees1 whose pumps were rivers1 whose inhabitants were gods in strangeness of complexion and of dress4 ,the same tragedy had happened there which begins the recitals of savage discovery4 ,the islanders had no notion of the resources of the ,europeans1 nor had the white men a knowledge of ,polynesian customs2 so that soon came up the usual quarrel and the use of fire-arms taken by the natives for thunder and lightning4 ,amo received the news1 and notwithstanding the exaggerated accounts1 determined to see for himself the supposed island and test the power of its inhabitants4 ,his was the attack described by ,wallis1 in which a large number of natives surrounded the ship1 while ,amo and ,oberea looked on from a little eminence above the bay4 ,to shorten the contest and thereby lessen the mischief ,wallis fired on the canoes and the occupants1 and finally on the chiefs themselves4 ,cannon balls fell at their feet1 and tore down the surrounding trees4 ,the unequal contest was over1 and the inhabitants came with green branches in their hands1 even those whose friends had been killed1 to make peace with the ,english1 and offer submission4 ,wallis relates how one woman1 who had lost her husband and children in the fight1 brought her presents weeping to him1 and left him in tears1 but without wrath1 and gave him her hand at parting4 ,and you remember how1 just as ,wallis had left one side of the island1 ,bougainville1 the ,frenchman1 came up to the other1 different in its make1 different in the first attitude of the natives2 but with the same story of gracious kindness and feminine bounty2 so that the ,frenchman called it the ,new ,cytherea1 and carried home stories of pastoral1 idyllic life in a savage ,eden1 where all was beautiful and untainted by the fierceness and greed imposed upon natural man by artificial civilization4 ,so strong was the impression produced by what he had to say1 that the keen and critical analysis of his own mistakes in judgment1 which he affixed to his ,journal1 was1 passed over1 because1 as he complained1 people wished to have their minds made up4 ,and immediately upon his leaving1 again to another part of the island came the representatives of another race1 another1 more solemn and less near to modern civilization--the ,spaniards2 who in their accustomed way1 planted the cross next to the sacred grove1 which unknown to them was that of the greedy god ,oro1 and sailed away1 leaving two missionaries1 helpless and solitary1 to wait for their return4 ,for this other side of the island was separated from the places of landing known to ,wallis1 by fierce war for which ,oberea had given the signal1 by that haughtiest pride which only a woman can show4 ,the missionaries accomplished nothing2 and when a few months afterward the ,spaniards called and took them away1 their presence had been but a dream--another strange side to the romance of the first discovery4 ,one year later1 #agfh1 came ,captain ,cook1 whose name has absorbed all others4 ,twice he visited ,tahiti1 and helped to fix in ,european minds the impression of a state nearer to nature1 which the thought of the day insisted upon4 ,nor can one here forget ,oberea2 and how she seemed to him younger than she had seemed to ,wallis1 who judged her age by ,european notions4 ,and how shall ,i refer to that 8ceremony of nature0 to which she invited the captain and his officers1 as an exchange for his having let her be present at the service of the ,church of ,england8 ,the state of nature had just then been the staple reference in the polemic literature of the century about to close4 ,the very refined1 dry and philosophic civilization of the few was troubled by the confused sentiments1 the dreams1 and the obscure desires of the ignorant and suffering many4 ,their inarticulate voice was suddenly phrased by ,rousseau4 ,with that cry came in the literary belief in the natural man1 in the possibility of--analysis of the foundations of government and civilization--in the perfectibility of the human race and its persistent goodness1 when freed from the weight of society's blunders and oppressions4 ,my confused memories of eighteenth century declamation and reasoning bring back to me this one echo4 ,our little ship is not a library1 and ,i struggle for references4 ,i can only remember fragments of the encyclopdists and of ,diderot1 and the vague impression that this last romance and analysis of singular writings of ,otahite is based upon a direct information outside of that derived from books3 that is to say1 perhaps from the travellers themselves1 or the ,tahitian1 who1 like ,cook's ,omai1 came to ,europe with ,bougainville4 ,later ,byron3 8,the happy shores without a law1 ,where all partake the earth without dispute1 ,and bread itself is gathered as a fruit2 ,where none contest the fields1 the woods1 the streams3 ,the goldless age1 where gold disturbs no dreams40 ,these literary images were used as illustrations of the happiness of man living in1 what people still persist in calling1 the state of nature4 ,there is no doubt1 of course1 that at the moment of the discovery our islanders had reached a full extreme of their civilization2 that numerous1 splendid1 and untainted in their physical development1 they seemed to live in a facility of existence1 in an absence of anxiety emphasized by their love of pleasure and fondness for society--by a simplicity of conscience which found little fault in what we reprobate--in a happiness which is not and could not be our own4 ,the 8pursuit of happiness0 in which these islanders were engaged1 and in which they seemed successful1 is the catchword of the eighteenth century4 ,people were far then from the cruel ideas of ,hobbes2 and the more amiable views of the nature of man and of his rights echo in the sentimentality of the last century1 like the sound of the island surf about ,tahiti4 ,nor am ,i allowed to forget the assertion of those 8self-evident truths0 in which the ancestor of my companion1 ,atamo1 most certainly had a hand4 ,so that the islands to which we are hastening with each beat of the engine1 are emblems of our own past in thought1 as they have played a part also in the history of which we see the development to-day1 the end of the old society1 the beginning of the new1 the revolutions of ,europe and of ,america1 all which lies in my mind obscurely as ,i recall1 every few moments1 my vague emotions at the name of ,otaheite4 ,i believe too that our feelings are intensified because they are directed toward a far-off island2 a word1 a thing of all time marked by man as something wherein to place the ideal1 the supernatural2 the home of the blest1 the abode of the dead1 the fountain of eternal youth1 ,circe and ,calypso1 the haven of man tired of weary sea1 the calm smile of the ocean when the winds have ceased4 ,the word sings itself within my mind1 and the dreams ,i have been recalling give me interior light during these gray days of adverse wind1 as in ,heine's song of the 8,land of ,perpetual ,youth03 8,little birdling ,colibri1 ,lead us thou to ,tahiti60 ,february #abth4 ,six days of grey weather and dark nights1 and in the last evening1 quite late1 the sun setting1 lit up for a moment an island1 ,moorea1 which is distant from ,tahiti only some dozen miles4 ,it made an enchanted vision of peaks and high mountains1 as strange as any which you may have seen in the backgrounds of old ,italian paintings1 far enough to be vague in the twilight haze and yet distinct in places high up1 where the singular shapes were modelled in pink and yellow-green4 ,the level rays of the sun pierced through the forest coverings1 and came back to my sight1 focused from underlying rocks1 in a glistening network of rainbow colours4 ,then all faded in a cloudy twilight1 half lit by the struggling moon1 and we saw a vague space of island1 like a dream1 edged by a white line of reef2 this was ,tahiti4 ,all night we ran east and west1 waiting for the day1 which would allow us to pass through the reef that lies in front of the so-called ,city of ,papeete1 which is a large village1 the 8capital0 of the island1 and the centre of the ,french possessions in ,oceanica4 ,,tahiti ,when we rose in the early morning our ship had already passed the reef1 and we were in the harbour of ,papeete4 ,there was the usual enchantment of the land1 a light blue sky and a light blue sea2 an air that felt colder than that of ,samoa1 whatever the thermometer might say2 and when we had landed1 a funny little town1 stretched along the beach1 under many tall and beautiful trees4 ,from under their shade the outside blue was still more wonderful1 and at the edge where the blue of sky and sea came together opposite us1 the island of ,moorea1 all mountain1 peaked and engrailed like some far distance of ,titian's landscapes1 seemed swimming in the blue4 ,near the quay neatly edged with stone steps1 ships lay only a few rods off in the deep water1 so that their yards ran into the boughs of the great trees4 ,further out1 on a ,french man-of-war1 the bugle marked the passing duty of the hour4 ,everything else was lazy1 except the little horses driven by the kanakas4 ,natives moved easily about1 no longer with the stride of the ,samoans1 which throws out the knees and feet1 as if it were for the stage4 ,people were lighter built1 more efface2 but there were pretty faces1 many evidently those of half-breeds4 ,white men were there with the same contrasting look of fierceness and inquisitiveness marked in their faces2 these now that we see less of them1 look beaky and eager in contrast with the brown types that fill the larger part of our sight and acquaintance4 ,we were kindly received by the persons for whom we had introductions2 and set about through various more or less shady streets marked ,french-wise on the corners3 ,rue des ,beaux-,arts1 ,rue de la ,cathdrale1 etc42 first to a little restaurant1 where ,i heard in an adjacent room1 8,buvons1 amis1 buvons10 and the noise of fencing2 then to hire furniture and buy household needs for the housekeeping we proposed to set up that very day1 for there are no hotels4 ,the evening was ended at the 8,cercle10 where we played dominoes1 to remind ourselves that we were in some outlying attachment of provincial ,france4 ,by the next morning we were settled in a little cottage on the wonderful beach1 that is shaded all along by worthy trees2 we had engaged a cook1 and ,awoki was putting all to rights4 ,as we walk back into the town there are ,french walls and yellow stuccoed houses for government purposes4 ,a few officers in white and soldiers pass along4 ,a few scattered ,french ladies pass under the trees2 so far as ,illustration3 ,,study ,,of ,,surf ,,breaking ,,on ,,outside ,,reef4 ,,tautira1 ,,taiarapu1 ,,tahiti we can tell 7because we have been long away7 dressed in some correct ,french fashion2 looking not at all incongruous1 because already we feel that this is dreamland--that anybody in any guise is natural here1 except a few ,europeans1 who meet the place halfway1 and belong neither to where they came from1 nor to the unreality of the place they are in4 ,there is no noise1 the street is the beach2 the trappings of the artillery horses1 and the scabbards of the sabres rattle in a profound silence1 so great that ,i can distinctly count the pulsations of the water running from the fountain near us into the sea4 ,the shapes and finish of the government buildings1 their long spaces of enclosure1 the moss upon them1 remind us of the sleepiest towns of out-of-the-way bits of ,france4 ,the natives slip over the dust in bare feet1 the waving draperies of the long gowns of the women seeming to add to the stealthy or undulating movement which carries them along4 ,many draw up under the arm some corner of this long1 nightgowny dress that it may not trail1 or let their arms swing loosely to the rhythm of their passing by4 ,most of the native men wear loose jackets1 sometimes shirts above the great loin-cloth which hangs down from the waist1 and which is the same as the lava-lava of the ,samoans1 the sulu of the ,fijians1 and is here called the pareu4 ,many of the women have garlands round their necks and ,illustration flowers behind their ears4 ,occasionally we hear sounds of singing that come back to us from some cross-street2 and as ,i have ventured to look1 ,i see in a little enclosure some women seated1 and one standing before them1 making some gestures1 perhaps of a dance2 and ,i grieve to say1 looking as if they had begun their latest evening very early in the day4 ,but this ,i have noticed from sheer inquisitiveness4 ,i feel that in another hour or so ,i shall not care to look for anything1 but shall sit quietly and let everything pass like the turn of a revolving panorama4 ,in this state of mind1 which represents the idleness of arrival1 we meet at our ,consul's an agreeable young gentleman belonging to a family well known to us by name--the ,branders2 a family that represents--though mixed with ,european--the best blood of the islanders4 ,they speak ,french and ,english with the various accents and manners that belong to those divisions of ,european society2 they are well-connected over in ,scotland4 ,do you remember the ,branders of 8,lorna ,doone08 ,at home their ancestry goes back full forty generations4 ,they are young and pleasant1 and we forget how old we are in comparison4 ,we call on their mother later1 a charming woman1 and on an aunt1 ,mrs4 ,atwater1 who has a similar charm of manner1 accent and expression2 and on another aunt1 the ex-,queen ,marau2 but she is away with her younger sister ,manihinihi4 ,in the evening1 with some remnant of energy1 we walk still further than our house upon the beach1 passing over the same roads that ,stoddard wearily trod in his 8,south ,sea ,idyls40 ,we try to find1 by the little river that ends our walk1 on this side of the old ,french fort1 the calaboose where ,melville was shut up4 ,there is no one to help us in our search2 no one remembers anything4 ,buildings occupy the spaces of woodland that ,melville saw about him4 ,nothing remains but the same charm of light and air which he1 like all others1 has tried to describe and to bring back home in words4 ,but the beach is still as beautiful as if composed for ,claude ,lorraine4 ,great trees stand up within a few feet of the tideless sea4 ,where the shadows run in at times1 canoes with outriggers are pulled up4 ,people sit near the water's edge1 on the grass4 ,outside of all this shade1 we see the island of ,moorea further out than the far line of the reef1 no longer blue1 but glowing like a rose in the beginning of the twilight4 ,at night we hear girls passing before our little garden2 we see them swinging together1 with arms about the flowers of their necks4 ,they sing--alas6 not always soberly1 and the wind brings the odour of the gardenias that cover their necks and heads4 ,in the night the silence becomes still greater around us1 though we can hear at a distance the music of the band that plays in the square1 which is the last amusement left to this dreary deserted village called a town4 ,in the square1 which is surrounded by many trees1 through which one passes to hidden official buildings1 native musicians play ,european music1 apparently accommodated to their own ideas1 but all in excellent time1 so that one just realizes that somehow or other these airs must have been certain well-known ones4 ,but nothing matters very much4 ,a few visitors walk about2 native women sit in rows on the ground1 apparently to sell flowers1 which they have before them4 ,people of distinction make visits to a few carriages drawn up under the trees4 ,occasionally1 in the shadows or before the lights1 in an uncertain manner1 natives begin to dance to the accompaniment of the band4 ,but it is all listless1 apparently1 at least to the sight1 and just as drowsy as the day4 ,in the very early morning we drive to the end of the bay at ,point ,venus1 to see the stones placed by ,wilkes and subsequent ,french navigators1 in order to test the growth of the coral outside4 ,and we make a call on a retired ,french naval officer1 who has been about here more or less since #ahdc1 the time of ,melville4 ,we drive at first through back roads of no special character4 ,we pass through a great avenue of trees over-arching1 the pride of the town2 we cross a river torrent1 and the end of our road brings us along the sea1 but far up1 so that we look down over spaces of palm and indentations of small bays fringed with foam1 all in the shade below us4 ,on the sea outline1 always the island of ,moorea1 and back on ,tahiti1 the great mountain1 the ,aorai1 the edge apparently of a great central crater2 a fantastic serrated peak called the 8,diadem10 also an edge of the great chasm2 and on either side along slopes that run to the sea1 from the central heights1 and recall the slopes of ,hawaii4 ,but all is green2 even the eight thousand feet of the ,aorai1 which look blue and violet1 melt into the green around us1 so as to show that the same verdure passes unbroken1 wherever there is a foothold1 from the sea to the highest tops4 ,this haze of green1 so delicate as to be namable only by other colours1 gives a look of sweetness to these high spaces1 and makes them repeat1 in tones of light1 against the blue of the sky1 chords of colour similar to those of the trees and the grass against the blue and the violet of the sea4 ,nearer us the slopes are all broken up into knife edges of green velvet streaked right near us by clay1 which in contrast seems almost like vermilion4 ,so far the roads were good1 though the slippery clay might be very different when the great rains came down2 and as our driver forced his horses at a gallop near the edges of the cliffs hanging over the lovely pictures of the secluded trees and water1 we felt that a more sandy1 more prosaic road would better suit the ,south ,sea habits of carriage travel4 ,all the trees were about us that we knew in ,samoa2 and many more rounded mango trees1 with red fruit hanging on long stems1 or lying green by the road4 ,all this was to be seen with cool air full of life1 and under a sky more like ours than the ,samoan1 but exquisitely blue and gay4 ,little has been done by us1 even of going about2 ,atamo has written many letters2 ,i have tried to sketch a little from our verandah1 in front of which1 on the shore1 grows a twisted purau1 called fau in ,samoa4 ,through its branches ,i see the sea and the reef1 and the island of ,moorea1 in every tint of blue that keeps the light1 even in the evening or in the afterglow1 when the sunset lights up in yellow and purple the sky behind it4 ,and yet there is a reminiscence in my mind of something not foreign to us1 even at this moment1 when the haze of light seems new1 and the pale blue sea is spangled with little silver stars1 as far as ,i can see distinctly4 ,we have called on the ex-,king2 and in the evening1 at the club1 ,i have seen him--a handsome1 elderly man1 somewhat broken and far from sober4 ,he was playing with a certain ,illustration3 ,,the ,,diadem ,,mountain4 ,,tahiti ,keke1 a black ,senegambian in the ,french service1 a prince of his own negro land1 who speaks excellent ,french1 and whom ,i surprised sitting on the sill of his house one evening 7while we were taking a rainy walk74 ,keke wore in this retirement a pair of marvellous trousers1 of a brilliant yellow1 with red flamboyant pattern--something too fine for the ordinary out-of-door world4 ,many of the officials are coloured men from the ,french colonies1 and so is the governor more or less4 ,of course the idea is infinitely respectable and humanitarian1 as so many ,french things are1 but ,i fear that the ,republic is unwise in sending people whom the native here cannot look up to as he does to a white man4 ,of course they are all ,french and have votes1 as the natives here can have also2 but whether it is for the real good of a population accustomed to dependence ,i am not so sure4 ,there are many curious anomalies3 our ,american friends of ,samoa speak1 with our natural way of looking at things correctly1 of the preposterous way the ,french have of backing the ,catholic missions and protecting their missionaries1 even as we would4 ,but here ,i find the ,catholic mission dependent upon the gifts of the faithful1 while the ,protestant missions are supported by the ,french government1 as the ,protestant clergy would be in ,france4 ,the ,king1 upon whom we called and whom we met at the club in affable mood1 surrendered his rights to the ,french1 a few years ago1 under long pressure and with some advice from the missionaries4 ,in exchange he received an annual income1 and retained his honours and certain privileges4 ,this end ,i suppose to have been inevitable4 ,his mother1 the famous ,queen whose name was known to all sea-going people in that half of the globe1 whose resistance to ,french pretensions had come1 apparently1 for a moment1 near bringing ,france and ,england into a quarrel1 had lived for many years under ,french authority1 a government under the name of protectorate4 ,such1 ,i suppose1 must always be the end1 as it has been everywhere that the ,english have been2 as it has been in ,fiji2 as it will be to-morrow1 probably1 when ,king ,george of ,tonga dies2 as it will be in ,hawaii1 whenever the whites there determine to use their power4 ,nor is the line of the ,pomar1 any more than that of the ,hawaiian rulers1 so connected with all antiquity as to be typical of what a ,polynesian great chief might be to the people whom he rules4 ,the ,pomars date only from the time of ,cook4 ,they were slowly wresting the power from the great family of the ,tevas1 by war and by that still more powerful means--marriage1 which in the ,south ,seas is the only full and legitimate source of authority4 ,you know from all that ,i have told you of ,samoa that in ,polynesia descent is the only real absolute aristocracy2 there is no ruling except through blood4 ,hence the absurdity of the kingships that we have fostered or established1 which in our own minds seemed quite legitimate1 because they embodied the ,european ideas which belong to our ancestry4 ,hence the general discomfort and trouble that we have helped to foster4 ,hence also--and far worse--the breaking down1 in reality1 of all the bases upon which these old societies rested1 the saving of which in part was the only hope remaining for the gradual education of the brown man for his keeping to ideas of order different from our own1 it is true1 but still involving the same original foundations4 ,hence the demoralization1 the arbitrary 8white laws10 always misunderstood1 always bringing on the vices which they were meant to control2 hence the end of the 8brown0 man by himself4 ,the missionaries' good-will has never gone so far as to try to understand him as a being with the same rights to methods of thinking as we claim for ourselves4 ,part of this sad trouble is of course owing to the unfortunate moment which gave birth both to greater missionary enterprise1 to a first acquaintance with these races1 and to the disruption of authority in the ,west4 ,perhaps1 indeed1 it might then have required more comprehension than could be asked of any but the most exceptional mind to realize that what we call savagery was a mode of civilization4 ,so must have been the ,european world when the civilization of antiquity broke down1 and things of price went into the night of forgetfulness1 along with the mistaken beliefs and superstitions that were joined to them4 ,so here1 where1 as in all civilizations1 religious views1 manners1 customs1 superstitions were woven about every bit of life1 the exterminating of anything that might seem pagan involved many habits1 and some good ones1 which necessarily1 from their fundamental antiquity1 had been protected by religious rites4 ,hence we brought on idleness and consequent vice2 for idleness is as bad for the savage1 whom we innocently suppose to be idle1 because we do not understand how he busies himself1 as it is for the worker in modern civilization4 ,it is not the actual doing that is important1 but such occupation as may determine a habit of useful or harmless attention1 which prevents the suggestion of untried moral experiments4 ,even tattooing was a matter which like any society duty involved attention1 considerable self-abnegation and suffering1 so as to suit the supposed requirement of civilization1 and a recognition of some manly standard1 however childish it might seem to us1 even if it seems as absurd as some of our society standards might seem to the so-called savage4 ,these reflections came from reading a law of missionary civilization which ,i find in the records of the year #ahbb1 in the neighbouring island of ,huahine2 in which a man or woman who shall mark with tattoo1 if not clearly proved1 shall be tried and punished1 and made1 for the man1 to work on the road1 for the woman1 to make mats2 in a proportion of which the only exact measure that ,i find is that for the man it is about the same as that for bigamy2 for the woman just the same as adultery4 ,with the coming of the missionaries1 with the coming of the white men traders1 coincided the first attempts of the ambition of these ,pomar chieftains4 ,they had already done a good deal for themselves before ,cook left for the last time4 ,he had seen ,oberea1 of whom ,i first spoke1 a great person4 ,when he left1 her line of family was already on the decline2 war and massacre had weakened it4 ,pomar--the ,pomar of that day--with the support of the guns of the white men1 established his final superiority1 and becoming the great chief was solemnly crowned and oiled by the missionaries1 like a new king of ,scripture4 ,and this man is the last of the line4 ,his first great ancestor1 ,otu1 just appears with the first discoverers' records of the details of the ceremonials and etiquette belonging to high chieftainship1 which are recorded in the first missionary accounts4 ,you may remember the picture painted by ,robert ,smirke1 ,royal ,academician1 where the high-priest of ,tahiti cedes the district in which we now are to ,captain ,wilson of the missionary ship the ,duff1 for the missionaries4 ,in the centre1 with a background of palms and peaks1 two young people--,pomar1 the son of ,otu1 and his queen--are represented on men's shoulders4 ,that was the old fashion of ,tahiti1 the great chief not being allowed to touch the land with his feet1 lest it become his by touch4 ,illustration3 ,,pomare ,,rex ,and therein also is shown the peculiar political arrangement by which the young chief took his father's place when a child1 and ruled1 in appearance at least2 for there in the picture alongside of the two young sovereigns1 called kings by us1 stand father and mother uncovered to the waist1 out of respect to their child's higher position4 ,otu and ,iddeah1 the dear lady whose notions about infanticide troubled the good missionaries to such an extent1 but whose courtesy was willing to go so far as to promise that she 8never would do it again10 when once she had done as she pleased4 ,as ,i understand it1 the ,pomars1 then1 pass away with the present ,king1 but the great line whose place they took--the ,tevas or their representatives--remain4 ,in that line continues a descent from that ,queen ,oberea1 whose figure1 in another picture that ,i have referred to and which ,i beg you will look up in the volume containing ,wallis's discovery1 is so charmingly made a type for an imaginary kingdom1 like those of the operas and the tapestries of the eighteenth century1 in which nothing is untouched by fancy but the muskets and grenadier caps and uniforms of ,wallis and his men4 ,i have almost been tempted1 as you see1 to begin a sort of explanation of the history of the island2 but ,i think that ,i can manage later to give you certain stories which will have the advantage of a more personal knowledge of acquaintance with what might be called the text1 than these vague reminiscences of the books that ,i have read and which are nearer to you than they are to me4 ,meanwhile1 let me tell you that last evening1 at the club1 ,his ,majesty1 who was in extreme good humour1 singled us out1 told us how he liked us1 that he liked ,americans1 who themselves liked ,tahitians1 and that the ,french1 who stood all about him1 were all d--d--d---- ,this he said in ,english1 in a proper reminiscence of nautical terms of reproach1 and added blandly1 8,but ,i don't understand ,english40 ,he has a fine1 aristocratic head1 and must have been a very handsome man4 ,he has for an adopted son one of the young gentlemen of the ,branders1 who will succeed to an empty honour2 though there might perhaps yet be a part to fill1 for the family that represents all that there has been far back and recently4 ,next week we shall go into the country1 further along the coast1 and make a visit to the old lady who is the head of the house1 grandmother of these young men1 and who is the chiefess representing that great line of the ,teva1 alongside of which the ,pomar--the kings through the foreigner--are new people4 ,then ,i may write lengthily1 or at least with some detail1 about matters that ,i only see confusedly1 but which must be curiously full of ancient1 archaic history1 however lost or eclipsed to-day4 ,i notice in my habits1 now forming1 as ,i write out my journal for you1 a tendency to dream away into a manner of philosophizing which evidently has for its first beginning the appreciation of the remote forms of these savage civilizations2 so that as ,i grow to understand them better1 it is necessary for my individual happiness of thought to be able to consider the earlier ways of man as not unconnected with the present1 and even to be willing to consider all foundations of society as passing methods suitable to the moment1 and perhaps in the great future to vary as much from the present as the past is strangely different4 ,the good missionary1 who simply looked upon a good deal of this past as strangely resembling the antiquities of the ,bible1 consoled himself1 and persuaded many of his brown brethren in the belief that they1 at last1 were the famous lost tribes1 who still kept1 in many ways and details1 that very peculiar manner of life which the ,bible sets out in many details4 ,one evening in ,samoa1 the great ,baker1 the former missionary and ruler of ,tonga1 finding me interested and credulous in regard to many superstitions which he described1 and many facts quite as extraordinary that he vouched for1 unfolded to me1 as a regard of confidence1 his firm belief that in these islands of the ,pacific1 ,reuben1 ,simeon1 ,levi1 ,judah1 ,zebulon1 ,issachar1 ,dan1 ,gad1 ,asher1 ,naphtali1 ,ephraim1 ,manasseh and ,benjamin had found a home4 ,and if a man so worldly wise1 such a producer of money1 such a controller of weaker minds1 dwelt in this view with satisfaction1 as a relief from the sordid necessities of power1 ,i think that a mere dreamer like myself can be excused for turning to more scientific and accurate arrangements of men's history4 ,these words come to me more distinctly suggested by the place in which ,i am1 not because ,i am thinking of the ancient ways that ,i touch1 but because ,i remember how ,melville passed from those records of exterior life and scenery to a dwelling within his mind--a following out of metaphysical ideas1 and a scheming of possible evolution in the future of man4 ,papara1 ,april #gth4 ,this is a land where to live would have made you happy4 ,outdoors and in the water1 and in no compulsory dress1 would have been your usual way of passing a great part of the time4 ,i thought of you while ,i looked this morning at the children playing in the water of the little river1 or in the surf that rolls into it or along the shore4 ,the girls1 little wee things1 swam in the stream near its mouth1 where it is safe1 and plunged in and out1 and swam under water1 their feet and backs showing within the light and dark of the currents2 for the river has been very full1 and the surf and tide have been heavy1 so that the children take their turn with the current4 ,the boys were out in the surf1 on the border of which occasionally the girls played1 edging sideways to it1 and running back with swinging arms4 ,the boys and one of the men plunged out with surf boards1 ducking under or riding over the waves that did not suit them2 then turning just before the wave that suited1 they were carried along the shore leaning on their boards4 ,the currents of the sea carried them past us looking on4 ,of course they knew all about them1 and rough as the surf was1 one of them had got past one of the lines of the breakers and tried fishing in some bottom both higher and less vexed4 ,it was a pretty sight1 the brown limbs and bodies all red in the sun and wet1 coming out of the blue and white water like red flowers4 ,the girls were yellower and more golden than the boys--less tanned ,i suppose4 ,they have been running about with less clothing1 perhaps because the family is away4 ,they left yesterday1 and the daily life is the same4 ,that is to say that only ,tati and his family1 including one of the boys whose holiday is prolonged1 are here with us4 ,the old lady 7,hinaarii7 the ,queen 7,marau71 ,miss ,piri 7pronounced ,pri1 short for ,piritani1 ,britain71 ,miss ,manihinihi1 and the two young men all went off together2 the ladies to spend some time at their house in ,faaa1 the most rustic1 ,i believe1 of their residences4 ,pleasant as it is to talk with ,tati or do nothing1 ,i miss the ladies4 ,the old chiefess is admirable1 and is willing to talk to us of legends and stories with the utmost patience4 ,i wish ,i had a portrait of her4 ,she has a most characteristic and strong face1 upon which at times comes a very sweet smile2 as ,i saw yesterday1 when she was asked which she preferred1 ,moorea1 the island she comes from1 or ,tahiti1 where her life has been mostly spent4 8,tahiti60 she said decidedly1 resuming in the inflection of her voice all the memories of a long life that has seen so much1 and so much that is different and contradictory4 ,queen ,marau has been very affable and entertaining1 telling us legends and stories2 ,miss ,piri has been ailing1 ,miss ,chiki1 smiling4 ,the women of the family are all extremely interesting1 of various types1 but each one with a charm of her own2 from ,marau's strong face1 fit for a queen1 to ,manihinihi's bright cordial smile4 ,and such beautiful voices as they have1 and rich intonation6 ,it is a remarkable family and a princely one4 ,when you read the next few lines you will say that ,i am prejudiced about my own people1 and anxious to have you admire them also2 but ,i don't care1 ,i am glad to have such relations4 ,for1 a little before her departure1 the old lady sent word that she wished to see us2 and when we had come to sit beside her1 she told us that she had decided to confer family names upon us1 choosing the names which had given the power and which belonged to the ruling chief4 ,consequently ,atamo takes the name of ,tauraatua1 ,chief of ,amo1 meaning ,bird ,perch of ,god1 and ,i of ,teraaitua1 ,captain of that ilk1 meaning ,prince of the ,deep4 ,the old lady said all this with great sweetness and majesty1 and we were greatly touched by the compliment4 ,this afternoon we went to see the little place which is ,amo1 and from which the ,tevas were ruled4 ,it is a small principality only fifteen fathoms long1 and is at present all overrun with trees1 orange and guava mostly4 ,but not so long ago1 as ,tati remembers1 it was as it had been before the little river changed its course and tore it up--a large paipai or stone platform1 edged with stones carefully set1 long ones above1 others with oval ends nicely finished below 7turtle heads they are called74 ,here lived ,tauraatua1 sixteen generations back1 simply and frugally1 refusing to change his habits with increased power1 and contented with cheap fare4 ,here on the little platform he drank kava1 with the river running by2 and once1 while lying under its influence 7dead drunk1 as it were71 came near being surprised by the enemy4 ,some little while ago the tall cocoanut tree was still standing1 which had served as a lookout and watch-tower against the enemy2 and from which the watcher had descried the invader just in time to save the chief1 and have him carried away like a precious parcel4 ,for ,tati informs me that here kava was not the mild drink of the ,samoan4 ,it is apparently the same root to the sight1 but whereas whole bowlfuls did not affect us1 and whites are accustomed to it in ,samoa1 a glassful here1 according to ,tati1 was and is a serious drink4 ,its charm lay apparently in the drowsiness and dreaminess it produced2 people spoke of their having been dead under it1 or of having seen things1 as with opium or haschich 7hemp71 and to-day opium is killing the last of the ,marquesans4 ,it could be nothing more than to carry out more completely what seems to us fierce whites the meaning of these lands--to exist without effort1 in indolence1 and waiting for nothing to happen4 ,the narcotic would condense it all1 would bring a year of dreams into a something that could be felt like a single act1 like an occurence that comes to you1 instead of your making it1 little by little1 so that the beginning is forgotten at the very middle of the tale4 ,such happiness was broken into by noise1 and chiefs demanded1 for their hours of kava influence1 absolute silence about them2 not even a cock might crow4 ,one can understand the objection to it made here by the missionaries1 which seen from our ,samoan experience seemed useless and cruel4 ,another example of a momentary or local matter becoming built into a principle4 ,we went to see the new duchy2 ,adams took off an orange as a manner of investiture4 ,i made an effort to see if ,i remembered it in a previous existence1 but ,i did not4 ,tati remembered it1 of course1 and the place near by1 all overgrown with great mango trees that have crowded over it1 where his mother lived1 and where the stone copings mark the base of the native house and a platform outside4 ,later on ,queen ,marau told us of the trick by which the great ,chief of ,amo won influence1 having claimed limits which were contested by powerful opponents4 ,he left the decision to the great god ,oro 7whose temple1 you know1 was at ,tautira71 and where he was when a voice called from some unknown place and 8gave him right40 ,this is the story exactly as ,queen ,marau told it4 ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,limits ,,of ,,the ,,tevas ,when ,oro was ,chief of ,papara1 ,hurimaavehi of ,vaieri was ruling over all this side 7,mataeia74 ,a woman brought about the overthrow of ,vaieri and the headship of ,papara4 ,oro had a son whose friend1 named ,panee1 was the father of a beautiful daughter1 beautiful enough to attract the notice of all1 as indeed it was the glory of the place to do4 ,hurimaavehi1 having heard of her beauty1 had her carried off at night1 by men sent for the purpose4 ,her father1 in his distress1 not knowing what had befallen her1 but guessing at it1 sought her up to every limit4 ,one day1 while he was inquiring at the limit near ,mataeia1 he saw two men coming toward him4 8,where from80 said he4 8,from ,vaiari40 8,and how is ,hurimaavehi1 and all around him1 and what new beauty have you in ,vaiari80 ,the two travellers answered4 8,if you talk of beauty1 there is a wonder has sprung out there1 and she belongs to ,hurimaavehi40 8,she must be well treated80 inquired the old man suspiciously4 ,the two said1 8,no indeed6 ,she has been passed down to the servants 7,teutunarii71 then sent to the dogs and the pigs and to the fish of the sea40 ,so the father1 like a madman1 called out all manners of insult against ,hurimaavehi2 and he rushed away 7like a madman7 to the limits of the district of ,vaiari1 and meeting five people--,tite and four others 7iatoais#ac7 under ,hurimaavehi1 he killed them 78which10 says the teller of the story1 8was a challenge071 and he gave his insults to be repeated by the travellers to the ,chief ,hurimaavehi4 ,so that ,hurimaavehi was incensed1 and came right over to ,papara with his people4 ,now the girl's father had told his friend1 the son of ,oro1 that ,hurimaavehi would be coming to attack1 and why4 ,and the son of ,oro said1 8,come with me02 and they went to his father ,oro and told him1 how ,hurimaavehi was coming to kill them1 and why4 ,oro said to his son1 8,hide under this marae0 7the marae whose remains or rather whose place we saw at ,amo71 and to the other1 8,do you go up this tree0 7the famous cocoanut that served as a watch-tower71 8and when he comes back attack and beat him40 ,he came with his men1 they beat him1 and ,hurimaavehi ran off1 with ,oro and all his men after him1 following on and taking possession of every limit1 until he came to ,teriitua4 ,then ,teriitua said1 8,no further2 this belongs to me40 7,hitiaa47 ,then the limit was decided1 as the famous story tells4 ,this is the downfall of ,vaiari and the rise of ,papara4 ,and the girl1 having served her purpose of introducing the war1 steps out of the story4 ,the daughter of ,panee1 whose fame for beauty brought on this trouble to herself and subsequent enlargement of her people1 was1 as the story shows1 known as a beauty far from home4 ,our brown ancestors admire beauty no less than other people2 and looked upon it1 as we do in many cases1 as a good instrument1 besides the credit to the family and the favour that goes with the possession of any social power4 ,but you must always remember that our brown forefathers were eminently socialistic1 or rather communistic1 as their relatives all over the ,pacific are still4 ,never forget this for a moment1 whenever you think of them or read about them or any habits of theirs4 ,we have developed from that point to a degree of individualism that can with difficulty understand what communism means4 ,so that we are easily deluded and over-pleased1 or horrified1 when like views and systems are proposed in the western world for our descendants4 ,now then1 the family1 in the case of a lovely brown maiden1 would not only be her own family 7as we call it directly71 but spread further and back1 in all sorts of relatives1 and from that spread out to the village and the tribe2 so that her beauty would be a credit to the whole place4 ,hence she would become a show-piece2 and her immediate parents1 with the good-will of the community1 would guard her beauty1 would feed her well and daintily1 to make her smooth and fat2 would keep her out of the sun that might darken her skin1 fairer than that of others1 if still brown to our snow-blinded eyes4 ,she would then occasionally be seen2 and it was considered a proper and justifiable extravagance for even a lesser person to have a paipai1 or stone exterior foundation to his house1 upon which his fair child could be seen4 ,and at certain intervals she would take her bath in public with others1 and her physical charms be fairly judged4 ,nor must we think that all this is brutal--no more than with us to-day4 ,the girl was also judged by her manners1 her courtesy and her modesty2 for she thought no more of showing her legs than do our young women of showing their necks and bosoms and backs2 and she had the same notion that they have that there are strict limits--even though hers might not be ours4 ,you will remember1 perhaps1 in early accounts1 the pretty description of women playing on the shore or in the water1 at games of ball1 as did ,nausicaa in the days of ,ulysses4 ,many times have ,i heard allusions to the habit of keeping in one house a number of the girls together1 beauties of the place4 ,and if ,i remember right1 it was to such a residence that the celebrated ,turi contrived to pass1 notwithstanding the difficulties put in his way--difficulties all the more interesting as mere delays2 for the young women had heard of his exploits and expected as much of him4 ,but then1 if ,i remember also1 he lived in those days when people1 especially the heroes of tales1 could be gifted with the power of changing their forms at will4 ,and who could have guessed in the decrepit or leprous old man1 pitied for his sorrows by the tender women1 the gay ,lothario heard of through all islands4 ,still less could he be discovered in the fish that was caught by the old women who supplied the women's house with food4 ,he it was who dug the great tunnel through the mountain1 in order to approach his love without detection--her who was ,ahupu ,vahine of ,taiarapu1 of whom ,stevenson1 in the notes of his ,ballads1 says that he has not yet been able to find out who she was4 ,why6 there is a whole 8,chronique ,scandaleuse0 of that period of earliest history4 ,oro then belonged to the younger ,vaiari1 and seized the power of the older branch4 ,let us take up the story as he pursues his enemy into the territory of ,teriitua1 ,chief of ,hitiaa1 who checked his advance1 disputing1 most naturally1 the limits that were being conquered4 ,so that they left the decision to the ,gods1 as ,i understand1 upon ,oro's proposal4#ad ,upon a day appointed they met for the invocation2 but ,oro had determined to help himself that he might be helped2 as many pious men have done and will do again4 ,a friend of his1 whom tradition names ,aia1 was concealed carefully in a hole or hollow place1 near the disputed boundary4 ,teriitua's call upon his gods1 being met only by the silence of the woods1 ,oro called out1 pointing out1 ,i suppose1 what he wished1 8,is it here80 ,and his friend answered1 8,it is here40 ,the cause of ,oro won2 a little1 perhaps1 because according to all tradition1 he was a doughty warrior who intended to have his way4 ,we now belong to both the 8,inner0 and 8,outer0 ,teva3 ,te ,teva ,iuta and ,te ,teva ,itai1 the whole eight1 whose clans reached all down this side of the island1 and into the next2 for we have been adopted twice1 both at ,tautira1 and here--into the two divisions4 ,the place has now for us an increased charm2 a still more subtle influence envelops me when ,i think that this is the home of ,amo and ,oberea1 who first met ,wallis and ,cook2 and as ,i look from the violet beds of one of the princesses to the solemn hills of dark green crowned with cloud1 ,i wonder if somewhere there may be the hidden tomb of ,oberea1 now my ancestress1 the quiet familiar surroundings became solemn with this great reminder of the mountains and the ocean that faces them4 ,i listen now1 with a curiously new interest1 to the explanations of the meanings of landmarks and to their names full of associations for the ,teva line4 ,we have it explained to us that each chief had a marae1 a temple associated with the sacredness of his name2 and many rules concerning its foundation2 and the places within it reserved to chiefs through heredity and heredity alone4 ,each chief had also a moua or mountain2 an ,otu or cape or point of land2 a ,tahua or gathering-place1 from which he ruled4 ,every point1 says the island proverb1 has a chief4 ,for the ,teva the oldest marae was ,farepua in ,vaiari1 from which1 by taking a stone from it1 ,manutunu1 the husband of the fair ,hototu1 mother of the first ,teva1 founded the marae of ,punaauia for his son4 7,he called it so because of his uncle1 who dead was rolled up like a fish--iia47 ,from these two maraes1 many maraes along the coast1 and in ,moorea took their origin and proved the family descent4 ,the ,moua of ,papara was ,tamaiti2 its ,outu was ,monomano2 its ,tahua1 ,poreho2 its marae1 ,tooarai4 ,our adopted mother's name is ,teriitere ,itooarai1 which you will remember is the name of the son of ,oberea and ,amo4 ,taputuarai in the small district of ,amo was the original marae of ,papara1 and from that ,amo took the stones to build the marae of ,tooarai on the point of ,mahaiatea4 ,a poem traditional in the family gives expression to the value of these points--to the attachment to and desire to be near them again1 in the mind of an exile1 one of the ,papara family4 ,the family seems to have been represented by the ,aromaiterai and the ,teriterai1 one of whom ruled in the absence of the other4 ,how far back this was composed1 nor exactly how it happened that one brother1 ,aromaiterai1 was banished1 ,i do not know4 ,one or other branch seems to have been always jealous of the other2 but in this case one ,aromaiterai was banished and forbidden to make himself known4 ,he was sent into the peninsula to ,mataoa1 from which place he could see across the water the land of ,papara and its hills and cape4 ,the poem which he composed1 and which is dear to the ,tevas1 revealed his identity3 ,,lament ,,of ,,aromaiterai ,from ,mataoa ,i took to my own land ,tianina1 my mount ,tearatapu1 my valley ,temaite1 my 8drove of pigs0 on the ,nioarahi4#ae ,the dews have fallen on the mountain and they have spread my cloak4#af,rains1 clear away1 that ,i may look at my home6 ,aue6 ,aue6 the wall of my dear land6 ,the two thrones of ,mataoa#ag open their arms to me ,temarii 7or ,amo74 ,no one will ever know how my heart yearns for my mount of ,tamaiti4#ah ,could anything be finer than the rallying cry of the ,tevas3 8,teva the wind and the rain60 ,for a line running back to origins confused with the brute forces of the world2 originating with divine creatures half animal--with the princes of double bodies1 half fish1 half man1 what more poetic reminder of the intimacy with parental nature4 ,i sometimes think of our chiefess as being able to feel with ,phaedra1 that the encompassing world is full of her ancestry4#ai ,and here the heroic line brought down through ages to the present day1 brings back to my mind the tradition that the lines of the fabulous ,homeric heroes were carried into the new ,christian world as far as the days of ,st4 ,jerome4 ,nor was the suggestion of the thought of ,phaedra1 claiming kinship with the universe1 so far from the echo of the name of ,queen ,marau1 whose further name is ,taaroa1 the great first god whose relation to the world is given in the verses3 8,he was2 ,taaroa was his name4 ,he rested in the void4 ,no land1 no sky1 ,no sea1 no man1 ,and he alone existing took the shape of the universe4 8,the pivots are ,taaroa3 ,the rocks1 ,the smallest sands are ,taaroa4 ,thus he called himself4 8,taaroa is the light1 ,he is the germ4 ,he is the base1 ,the strong who created the world3 ,the great and holy world ,the shell of ,taaroa4 ,he moves it1 he makes harmony40 ,the records of the past are all in words handed down2 and the absence of any outer form to antiquity makes me seek it all the more in the nature which surrounds me1 in the imaginary presence of the people who lived within it4 ,one great disappointment awaited me3 ,i had hoped to find some form in the great marae or temple built by ,oberea1 in her pride of place1 which ,cook speaks of as the principal building of the island1 and describes as an imposing monument4 ,we found it only a vast mass of loose coral stones1 treacherous to the foot and retaining but a vague and unimpressive outline4 ,still it was upon the shore1 by the beautiful sea1 and the funereal aito or ironwood trees sacred to temples still grew upon it4 ,stewart1 the planter who for a term of years was able to keep up a great estate1 at the head of a company behind him1 planned on a grand scale1 and who then failed1 was allowed to use the stones of the marae as a quarry for his roads and walls4 ,even before that time neglect and the destruction brought about by the enmities to the old paganism must have changed its shape and destroyed its outline4 ,to-day it is impossible to recognize the form described by ,cook4 ,it was made1 he says1 of a series of steps rising in pyramid way1 to a top layer ridged like a roof2 and its long sides1 which hollowed in slightly1 were some two hundred and thirty feet in length4 ,now it is a sad ruin1 shapeless and barbarous4 ,as ,i left it ,i remembered that ,moerenhout1 visiting here some sixty years ago1 says that few natives except the great ,chief ,tati saw without superstitious fear the cutting down of the majestic trees which had witnessed for centuries the ceremonies of the forbidden worship1 and had survived the decadence of the temples which they adorned4 ,when he adds1 the great trees had been cut down which shaded the marae further inland1 specially sacred to the chiefs of ,papara1 which had been that of ,tati himself and of his children1 a rumour spread about the country that the water of the little river1 the river that ran through our ancestral domain of ,amo1 had reddened1 and blood had trickled from the trunks of the prostrate trees4 ,last month1 at ,tautira1 the absence of all vestiges of the great marae of the ,god ,oro1 was more impressive than the formless mass of stone associated with the name of ,oberea4 ,it is always a disappointment to notice how little this race has turned to the arts of form4 ,i mean this race as ,i have seen it1 in ,samoa and in ,tahiti4 ,elsewhere it may have done something1 but here the form of music only has been reached--the earliest mode of expression4 ,and though the ,polynesian still shows good taste in colour and choice in arrangement1 he seems to have taken but the very first steps in the adornment of surfaces or the arrangement of masses4 ,it is possible that there is something strenuous and needing sustained effort in the plastic arts which these sensuous races1 urged by no contrarieties to find some escape out of the present1 were too indolent and contented to achieve4 99 99 99 99 99 ,i have made many notes that ,i shall string together as ,i best can2 but ,i am ineffably lazy1 and this is the place for me in the house of ,tati4 ,i sleep in the rooms where his great-uncle ,tati1 the great ,chief1 died3 he who ruled here at the beginning of the new dispensation1 who was a child in the days of the first discoverers1 and who lived well into the fifties4 ,he was saved from the massacre of the ,papara family when a child1 through some recognition of the behaviour of ,manea the high priest when he saved the pride of ,tetuanui in her contest with the pride of ,oberea4 ,so that the revenge of ,tetuanui spared this boy1 who became an important man representing the great ,teva house4 ,but that was only after the son of ,amo and ,oberea had died by accident1 leaving to the ,pomar ,chief no equal rival2 and after ,tati's brother ,opufara had died in battle bravely defending the ,pagan side against the ,pomar1 helped by the rifles of the ,christians4 ,tati had apparently refused to avail himself of the offer of ,pomar1 before his death1 to appoint him regent1 nor did he consent to our chiefess being made queen3 for he seems in many ways to have asked for the best interests of his nation1 and always with higher motives4 ,there are interesting descriptions of his influence and of his dramatic eloquence1 which ,moerenhout compares to the action of ,talma1 the greatest of ,french actors4 ,i read about him in ,moerenhout's volumes2 ,i make sketches during the day1 and talk to the ,tati of this moment1 enjoying the sound of his voice and his laugh1 and the freedom of the children1 and the movement of the servants4 ,there is one who is always hard at work doing everything1 who is really ,marau's1 a girl of good family1 a sort of relation of mine now1 and who is called ,pupuri 7if ,i catch it right71 8,blonde02 and she is blond2 her hair is absolutely gold1 and when she has her back turned and her hair down you would suppose some foreign visitor from northernmost ,europe4 ,she is fair1 a little red1 like an ,irish woman1 with whitish lashes1 and eyes that do not stand the light well4 ,madame sits at one end of the piazza2 the ladies flit in and out of their rooms and sometimes talk to us4 ,next to our house1 where some women have beds and others mats for sleeping1 there are other houses for cooking1 and for ,illustration3 ,,young ,,tahitian ,,girl servants who are in reality dependents4 ,sometimes members of the family eat there1 in native fashion1 of native cooking1 instead of coming to the table at which we sit on one end of the verandah4 ,near by is a little garden growing on what was once the enclosure of a house2 and the little river runs rapidly a few yards off1 hidden in part by trees2 at which women go down to wash1 and which men and boys cross to bathe1 and in which splash the horses when they are washed in the morning4 ,it is all delightful and rustic4 ,we are arranging with ,tati about going to ,moorea1 the island opposite ,tahiti1 where we can be in the mountains that come right down to the water4 ,as the island makes a perfect triangle1 the clustering together of its mountain peaks1 seen from ,papeete1 used to look like some background of early ,venetian pictures1 inspired by the ,dolomites that ,titian knew when a boy4 ,tati has a plantation and house there to which we shall go2 and the family are strong in the island1 having antique rights and inheritances in different districts4 ,we shall stay only a few days here1 and then sail or row across to the fantastic island that has made a distance of blue and gold to our days in ,papeete1 and behind which the sunsets used to sink in every variety of indescribable splendour or delicacy4 ,papeete1 ,may #bb1 #ahia4 ,we did not leave by the steamer2 by some curious chance unknown before1 it was filled with passengers4 ,it is true that it does not take a large number to fill it4 ,we feared discomfort1 and hurrying back from ,moorea1 we nevertheless lazily let it get away from the point on the coast to which it had gone for its cargo of oranges4 ,whether or no ,tauraatua had already presented to his mind the alternative that opened to us ,i do not know1 but we turned at once to a longer sea trip and a less probable one3 to taking a little schooner that had just come from ,raiatea1 and getting its captain to carry us to ,fiji4 ,thus we should also now be able to call at the leeward islands1 ,raiatea1 ,huahine1 and ,bora ,bora1 and leave1 as it were1 our cards4 ,for it seems sad enough to give up the ,marquesas2 especially as every day we hear something in detail about them4 ,captain ,hart tells us too that there is one ,typee perhaps still alive2 and gives me something of the story of a savage whose photograph is on the bookcase of his office--a gentleman whom ,stevenson met1 and a lover of human flesh4 ,indeed1 the story goes1 that once upon a time he had had thoughts of dining upon the captain--after a previous murder1 of course4 ,now1 to know a cannibal and perhaps to become his brother--for that would be a natural result of his acquaintance1 as our relationship is just now in ,illustration3 ,,peak ,,of ,,maua ,,roa1 ,,island ,,of ,,moorea1 ,,society ,,islands1 ,,tahiti demand through these latitudes--is an awful temptation4 ,were there anything more to it--were there anything said that might lead one to believe that he or any other such might really become known and understood--perhaps might one think that the two weeks' sail against the wind would not be too much sea to travel over for a result4 ,but ,i can make out no such probability from any cross-questioning that ,i have been able to conduct2 and the portrait of the indigne in question suggests a heavy1 sullen brutality not at all romantic4 ,i should not care to use him as a model for any picture of ,typee1 where the eating of man was apparently something like a duty or a necessity1 not a mere gourmet liking for a certain richness of taste4 ,no2 we need1 after all1 more inducement than that one4 ,the portrait of the ,queen is more of an invitation3 there is something in her face and the impression we receive from 8,prince0 ,stanislas ,moanatini that warrants that we shall be well treated4 ,still we are trying to get away in this other direction2 that way at least the winds are in our favour1 and two weeks' sailing would see us in ,fiji or near it2 and then in a few weeks more we might be on our return homeward4 ,for all considered1 we must make up our minds either to let this thing go on1 and drift about the ,south ,seas1 taking up the island groups one by one1 as chance will have it1 or we must make a stern choice and hold to that4 ,and that choice points more and more to our saying good-bye to these eastern islands1 and to determining that we have really seen ,brown ,polynesia1 even if it be only in these three groups1 and that the rest is a matter of detail4 ,but it may not be so easy to leave by that little schooner or by any other4 ,there is a demand for small schooners--that is to say1 they have to go around to the groups to pick up cargoes2 and the one ,german firm whose boat runs near enough would like to put the screws on to the uttermost4 ,more ,germanico1 even money is not enough--there must be no equality--and the last alternative so far has been the offer of a passage in a little boat1 with other passengers1 native women1 and a full cargo2 which means every available space filled 7so that we would merely have our berths to lie in72 and that passage to certain places first1 and then afterward1 when the schooner has discharged its cargo at leisure1 to take us from the last point to ,fiji4 ,for these discomforts we should have to pay #b1gjj1 within #cjj of the value of the schooner4 ,the other passengers would pay #ae1 which would be the average value4 ,we offered #c1jjj for the use of another schooner1 having ascertained that she was unprofitable to the same owner2 to which he answered by sending her off2 and told us that upon conditions of a like nature we might have her by and by4 ,the place develops curious sides of what is called business2 and this may be an example4 ,fancy anywhere else a person offered the full value of a bit of non-productive property for a few weeks' rent1 and hesitating so as to couple difficult conditions with his leave4 ,but ,i think our ,german will come short of his enormous profit3 the steamer that brings cattle here from ,auckland and carries back fruit will probably be our choice2 it is only waiting three weeks more1 and economizing several hundred dollars a week--never a cruel thing to endure4 ,and our stay is such an easy thing2 it is only because neither of us has the future before him1 but on the contrary1 a considerable past filled with the habit of work1 that we make the slightest effort to resist our contentment4 ,the weather is such as people might travel far to seek3 an equable warmth1 a little coolness at night and in the morning1 an evenness that makes a couple of degrees count for a great deal1 plenty of moving air1 a beautiful sea1 a beautiful sky1 and a beautiful distance at all hours of the day and even of the moonlit nights4 ,the ,moorea lies in front of us1 on half of the horizon2 the little shipping blocks up part of the space2 grass-covered quays are before us1 shaded with trees under which pass groups of natives or straggling ,french soldiers and sailors1 or the few residents that live this way4 ,at times all is silent and solitary2 at others carts roll noisily2 horses1 ridden wildly by native boys1 canter past1 or some schooner comes in and unloads almost in front of us4 ,great excitement comes upon us with these arrivals1 far greater than with the arrival or departure of the war steamer that serves to carry about the ,governor or officials on tours of inspection1 and whose presence brings the sunset gun1 saluted by the customary refrain of the clarion1 and the eight o'clock gun with another blast1 as if reporting that the discharge had struck4 ,lately too we have been interested in the arrival of ,narii ,salmon in his boat from the ,pomotus1 bringing other members of the family4 ,this impending arrival has brought several times to our verandah the two younger ladies of the family1 to scan the distance with our glasses4 ,since the night when ,narii ran in1 passing the reef in the twilight1 our beautiful new sisters have been less frequent4 ,it was a pretty event1 the arrival of the little boat1 for which others had daily been mistaken2 the settling of its identity by its marks2 the recognition of its owner by its sailing bravely in through the pass in the dark2 then the calls from the shore to know if it were he for sure1 and who was on board2 and the boats hurrying out and coming back1 all in a silence so great that the slightest rustle of sail or cordage or steps on deck could be distinctly heard4 ,at times the only sound is the wavering fall of the little column of water that drips from the mouth of a fountain into the sea--to which we go for our supply of pure water4 ,its threads1 thicker or thinner1 with the pulsations of the headstream thousands of feet far back1 or with the draught of the wind1 make a corded silver fan against the blue sea during the day2 in the night a line of tinted light4 ,these are fine days2 but our first stay after our return from ,moorea ran over a week of wet weather that kept all asoak1 filled the house with damp and mould1 and carried into and about it disagreeable things taking refuge in comparative dryness3 the centipede that runs away1 but bites if interfered with2 the scorpion that lurks around dark corners1 and scuttles off harmlessly enough1 but looking like a child's dream of a devil4 ,the cockroach seems to rule over them1 however1 and to drive them away2 and as the scorpion appears rarely in the house1 and only in the verandah or outhouses1 we have been lucky4 ,tauraatua has been bitten1 but after a sharp pain like a cut1 the matter has faded away4 ,the memory is there1 however1 and ,i am glad of the changed weather4 ,our house1 from whose verandah we look upon the sea across the road1 and the reef near the horizon and ,moorea swimming in light1 is the historic consulate empty of the ,consul1 whose place we take1 his duties only being filled by ,captain ,hart1 the ,vice-,consul4 ,behind us1 across the yard1 is our dear old ,chiefess's home1 where the ,queen1 ,marau1 and her sisters ,piri and ,manihinihi reside2 so that we are near our new family1 and we call in as often as our fears of intrusion may allow1 or need of society1 or freedom from so-called occupation4 ,tauraatua goes over more than ,i do2 he has given up painting1 and has returned to congenial and accustomed studies1 by working at the genealogy of our new family1 and helping to get it into written shape4 ,for the old lady1 ,hinaarii1 has begun to open the registers of memory1 and to correct and make clear things kept obscure1 partly from purpose as defences1 partly from kindly motives toward others2 partly because it is written that memories must perish and the past continually fade and disappear1 in part at least4 ,genealogy1 you know1 in the ,south ,seas1 indicates not only one's standing but one's rights to land4 ,nothing is ever sold1 nothing alienated by any law2 so that in one's name and in the names of one's relations are the title deeds of what one has4 ,and now the ,french ,government1 in its anxiety to extend all benefits of civilization1 and to make all its peoples equals has desired to have everything put into proper shape2 and as in ,samoa1 so everybody here must put in his claim to the land1 which thus will be duly recorded for good and all4 ,for never again will be the time when a family might claim the fruit of a branch of a given tree4 ,these genealogies1 kept by hearsay1 will be unfolded to the public1 so far as needed1 and claims settled2 there will be no need of concealment1 no fear that some side relation1 in a little country1 where such relationship must exist1 will know enough to make out a tree of his own and come in with some claim4 ,everything conspires for getting some definite record just before the last veil closes over a past already dim enough4 ,and ,marau and ,moetia are writing out songs and legends1 and may be inspired1 if their ardour can continue1 to help to save something4 ,some years ago ,king ,kalakaua of ,hawaii had wished to obtain the traditions and genealogies2 but the old lady had never been favourable2 so that we feel that at least we have done no harm to the family1 at least in our western notions1 since we may help to save its records4 ,it is a part of the charm of ,tahiti that with it there is a history3 that it has been the type of the oceanic island in story2 that the names of ,cook and ,bougainville and ,wallis and ,bligh belong to it most especially2 that from it have radiated other stories3 the expeditions of the mutineers of the ,bounty1 and the missionary enterprises that have gone through the ,pacific4 ,with its discovery begins the interest that awoke ,europe by the apparent realization of man in his earliest life--a life that recalled at least the silver if not the golden age4 ,here men and women made a beautiful race1 living free from the oppression of nature1 and at first sight also free from the cruel and terrible superstitions of many savage tribes4 ,i have known people who could recall the joyous impressions made upon them by these stories of new paradises1 only just opened2 and both ,wallis's and ,bougainville's short and official reports are bathed in a feeling of admiration1 that takes no definite form1 but refers both to the people and the place and the gentleness of the welcome4 ,that early figure of ,purea 7,oberea7 the ,queen1 for whom ,wallis shed tears in leaving1 remains the type of the ,south ,sea woman4 ,with ,cook she is also inseparably associated and the anger of the first missionaries with her only serves to complete and certify the character4 ,one will always remember the imposing person who1 after the terrors of the first mistaken struggle1 approached ,wallis with the dignity he describes1 welcomed him and took care of him1 even1 as he says1 to carrying him1 since he was ill1 in her arms1 as if he were a child4 ,one would like to go back in mind to the time1 if it were possible to realize the thoughts that must have come upon ,oberea and ,amo her husband on this appearance of the great ship and the strange men--a floating island as they first thought it1 which they attacked as a portent of ill4 ,something like this will be felt by our descendants when from some distant planet the first discoverers shall drop on earth4 ,and so ,amo and ,oberea come in and out of the stories of the first discoverers1 even until forty years after1 when the missionaries of the ,duff speak of the poor lady with harsh words and 7#agii-ahjj7 no pity for her frailties4 ,now ,oberea 7,purea7 was our old ,chiefess's great-great-grand-aunt1 as ,amo was her great-great-grand-uncle2 and now1 with one remove further1 she is ours by adoption4#bj 7,you must ever remember that we belong to ,amo2 that is the special name of place attached to ours47 ,and everything that concerns the family of the ,tevas interests us exceedingly4 ,does it not interest you also8 ,this living connection with the indefinite archaic past1 does it not bring back the freshness of early days1 in which1 reading of the voyages1 our minds shaped pictures of what these places and their people were8 ,now for me it is a pleasure1 half touching1 half absurd1 to look upon the queer pictures of the little place we lived in at the end of ,uponohu ,bay1 as it is represented in the prints of ,cook's voyages1 or the later one of the ,duff2 that place where ,melville last lived during his last days on ,moorea1 as he tells in 8,omoo02 and then to think of my own sketches1 and the different eyes with which ,i must have seen it4 ,in the same way1 or a similar way1 my impressions of to-day become confused and connected with these old printed records of the last century1 until ,i seem to be treading the very turf that the first discoverers walked on1 and to be shaded by the very trees4 ,i have been drawing and painting somewhat lately1 so ,i have been able to take fewer notes than ,tauraatua4 ,he is working assiduously1 partly because he is engaged in congenial work1 partly to urge ,marau to go on and write her memoirs1 which would then go back to a record of her ancestors4 ,i1 on my part1 could not do it so well2 and ,i am busy at my drawings1 trifling as they are4 ,but ,i regret it1 as ,i see less of our neighbours1 all of whom have their various degrees of charm4 ,but ,i like to gather in without strict order these records and memories1 even at the risk of ,marau's supposing that ,i am going to put into verse the extremely difficult poems she recites to us4 ,this idea of hers is evidently a devilish suggestion of ,tauraatua1 who thereby shares the responsibility or throws ,illustration3 ,,sun ,,coming ,,over ,,mountain1 ,,early ,,morning1 ,,uponohu it off on me at will4 ,still ,i shall transcribe into prose some of the poems at least1 to please you4 ,they are woven into the story of the family and form part of its record1 if one may say so2 some of these form parts of methods of address1 if one might so call it--that is to say1 of the poems or words in order recited upon occasions of visiting1 or that serve as tribe cries and slogans4 ,so with the verses connected with the name of ,tauraatua that are handed down4 ,the explanations may 7and do7 embrouiller or confuse it2 they did for me2 but they make it all the more authentic1 if ,i may so say1 because all songs handed down and familiar must receive varying glosses4 ,where one sees1 for instance1 a love song1 another sees a song of war4 ,the ,tauraatua of that far back day was enamoured of a fair maiden 7her name was ,maraeura7 and lived with or near her4 ,this poem1 which is an appeal to him to return to duty or to home1 or to wake him from a dream1 is supposed to be the call of the bird messenger and his answer3 7,to7 ,tauraatua that lives on the 8,paepae0 ,roa 7says7 8euriri0 the 7bird7 that has flown to the ,rua roa3 ,papara is a land of heavy leaves that drag down the branches3 ,go to ,teva1 at ,teva is thy home3 to ,papara that is attached to thee1 thy golden land4 ,the mount that rises before 7thee7 that is ,mount ,tamaiti4 78,outu07 ,the point that stands on the shore is ,outo monomono3 ,it is the 7place of7 the crowning of a king who makes sacred ,teriitere of ,tooarai4#ba 7,teriitere is the chief's name as ruling over ,papara7 7,answer7 ,then let me push away the golden leaves of the ,rua roa ,that ,i may see the twin buds of ,maraeura on the shore4#bb ,of this translation ,tati made mincemeat one evening1 describing as frivolous the feminine connection1 and giving the whole a martial character4 ,the few lines he changes ,i shall not give here in full2 suffice it that he ends with this1 which is fine enough3 8,he is swifter 7,tauraatau who is supposed to rush off7 than the one who carries the fort4 8,he is gone and he is past before even the morning star was up4 8,the grass covering the ,pare 7,mapui-cliff7 is trampled by ,tauraatua40 ,i shall not have time to reconcile the versions1 but ,moetia seems impressed with the possibility of getting these things translated2 and if all will unite1 even if two versions are made1 the songs will at least be saved4 ,i have received from ,marau two poems3 one about a girl asked to wed an old chief1 one in honour of ,pomar2 but ,adams has become more ,teva than the ,tevas1 and will not note it4 ,and as a woman has come again into the story1 as she has done often with the ,tevas1 for good and ill1 let us go back to ,oberea1 the ,teva princess whom ,wallis first met1 and met almost by chance1 for she and her husband ,amo were on a visit to the place where ,wallis anchored and landed1 and by this accident helped to displace later the centre of power1 as has always happened where the white man has made his harbour4 ,oberea was on a visit to ,haapape1 where is the anchorage of ,matavai2 its chief ,tutaharii4 ,tutaha 7in ,wallis's book7 was connected with the ,papara family to which ,amo1 ,oberea's husband1 belonged 7and stripped1 as a sign of respect1 in presence of ,amo and his little son ,teriitere74 ,the ,tevas1 whom ,amo and ,oberea represented1 held the political supremacy of ,tahiti4 ,their lands were further down the coast to the south than the districts which the first discoverers first knew1 and separated from them by inimical chiefs1 momentarily quiescent from fear and doubt4 ,they were especially the ,purionu and ,teaharo1 from whom the first discoverers received a great part of their information2 then came1 on the west coast1 the little district of ,faaa 7or ,tefanai ,ahurai71 from which came ,oberea 7,purea2 her proper name1 ,tevahine ,avioroha i ,ahurai71 the daughter of its chief1 ,teriivaetua4 ,then came a large district known as the ,oropaa1 consisting of ,paea1 adjoining ,papara1 the chief place of the ,tevas1 and of ,punavia1 both these connected by family alliances with the ,tevas4 ,the ,tevas 7and family7 held after them1 further to the south1 the whole south of the main island1 and the whole of that half island called ,taiarapu1 which joins the main island at the narrow ,isthmus of ,taravao4 ,the east was divided into three districts1 but had no common head4 ,hence the ,tevas1 usually well combined1 with strong clan feelings that last until to-day1 controlled all the south and west of the island and ,taiarapu1 or two thirds of the population1 and had only themselves to blame when deprived of their ascendency4 ,the ,tevas were divided1 as they still are on the map to-day1 into ,inner and ,outer ,tevas2 the ,outer ,tevas on ,taiarapu 7into which we were adopted by ,ori71 and the ,inner ,tevas on the main island 7into which we were adopted by our good chiefess of ,papara74 ,these made the eight ,tevas4 ,their origin1 like that of all clans1 is hidden in the night of legend1 with the old myths of a semi-divine ancestor and an earthly mother4 ,and as the women were to play a great part in the history of the ,tevas1 it is but fair to begin1 then1 with that part of the life of ,queen ,hototu that made them4 ,,the ,,origin ,,of ,,the ,,tevas ,this1 the earliest of the traditions of the family1 was told me at different times by ,queen ,marau4 ,at certain hours ,tauraatua goes to the low cottage behind our house1 that is open toward the ,king's palace and the government house1 but is entirely shut in by trees that fill the little garden1 and which has a strange resemblance to many a little ,american home and is all the more wonderfully unreal4 ,then the ,queen comes from some inner apartment and repeats the legends1 poems and genealogies1 and one or more of the sisters are often there and add comments or contradiction4 ,during our absence the ladies are supposed to have prepared the material and to have arranged what documents they have1 so that in many cases what little ,i shall quote will be the very words of our royal historian4 ,sometimes in early evening the ,queen has walked down to the shore with her sister ,manihinihi1 and1 sitting on the rocks under the lofty trees1 answered my questions about these early ancestors4 ,i can tell you the bald story4 ,i cannot give you with it all that would have made any old story charming--the faces and forms of my instructors1 their beautiful voices1 the slight wash of the sea into which ,manihinihi sometimes put her bare foot1 the wonderful stillness1 the slight rush of the surf far out on the reef1 the light of the afterglow1 the blue ocean far away1 the mountains of ancestral ,moorea lit up after sundown1 the shadows of the big trees moving over the water1 and on our side right above us the great heights of the ,aorai appearing and disappearing behind the many coloured clouds4 ,at such moments ,i could forget for the present the little meannesses introduced by us ,europeans and feel as if ,i were back in the time when my name was ,teraaitua4 ,they were my ancestors in fairyland of whom fairy stories were being told1 and even the absurdities had the same charm of the stories of our nurseries which they so much resembled4 ,the great ancestress ,hototu1 from whom come all the ,teva1 was the first queen of ,vaieri4 ,she married ,temanutunu1#bc the first king of ,punaauia4 ,all this is in the furthest of historical records1 as you will see by what happened to this king and queen at the time when gods and men and animals were not divided as they are to-day1 or when1 as in the ,greek stories1 the gods took the shapes of men or beasts to come and go more easily in this lower world which they had begun to desert4 ,in the course of time this king left the island and made an ,illustration3 ,,edge ,,of ,,the ,,aorai ,,mountain ,,covered ,,with ,,cloud4 ,,midday1 ,,papeete1 ,,tahiti expedition to the far-away ,paumotu 7pr4 ,pomotu74 ,it is said that he went to obtain the precious red feathers that have always had a mysterious value to ,south ,sea ,islanders1 and that he meant them for the maro ura or royal red girdle of his son1 for he had a son by ,hototu who was named ,terii te ,moanarao4 ,the investiture with the girdle1 red or white1 according to circumstances1 has the same value as our form of crowning1 and took place as a solemn occasion in the ancestral temple or marae of these islands of the ,south ,sea1 but the red girdle seemed even in some ,samoan lore to have an ancient meaning of royalty2 ,i remember ,mataafa1 the great chief1 asking me why the ,english ,consul wore the red silk sash which he probably affected in his dress as being of an agreeable colour4 ,while the king was far away in the pursuit of these red feathers to be gathered1 perhaps1 one by one1 the queen ,hototu travelled into the adjoining country of ,papara1 where we were the past month1 and there she met in some way the mysterious personage1 ,paparuiia4#bd ,with this wonderful creature the queen was well pleased so that from them was born a son who later was called ,teva1 but this is anticipating4 ,this was the time as we have told you when men and animals and gods were mixed1 and this great ancestor of the ,tevas was evidently some form of god4 ,the story came to an end in a sudden way4 ,while the king was still away1 his dog ,pihoro returned1 and finding the queen he ran up to her and fawned upon her to the jealous disgust of ,tino iia1 one half of whom said to the other1 8she cares for that dog more than for me4 ,see how he caresses her60 ,so then he arose and departed in anger1 telling her1 however1 that she would bear a son whom she should call ,teva3 that for this son he had built a temple at ,mataua1 and that there he should wear the maro tea1 the white or yellow girdle1 the chiefs of ,punauia or ,vaiari1 who in this case were the king and queen1 being the only ones that had the right to the maro ura1 the red maro or girdle1 for which you will remember that the king was hunting4 ,then he departed and was met by ,temanutunu1 the husband who had landed at ,vairoa1 and who entreated him to return4 ,he refused just as the two ,shark-princes1 of whom ,i told you at ,vaima1 the little river that ran so clear near ,taravao1 refused another husband for a similar reason1 saying that his wife was a woman too fond of dogs4 8,vahine na te uri0 7woman to the dogs74 ,when ,i asked if he never came back1 the queen1 or was it ,moetia1 told me that since that day the man-fish had been seen many times4 ,the dog is however much connected with the ,papara family1 and his presence is occasionally felt4 ,tati the brother of the queen told some stories of him4 ,one of these stories refers to what happened to ,narii when a child4 ,his mother had him with her at the occasion of the building of a bridge near ,papara4 ,there were many hundred people there4 ,tati was there with his two nurses according to custom1 and ,narii had also the two who had charge of him4 ,at evening one of the nurses saw something like a dog run up a tree above them1 and into the branches1 and at the same time something waved from him like rags4 ,just then the child was drawn from the arms that held him1 his mother's1 but something grasped him firmly1 while a ball of fire rushed out above him and went on to the sea some quarter of a mile distant4 ,so many people saw part of this1 namely1 the ball of fire that there was no doubt of it4 ,nor must ,i forget to say that all about ,papara there is a good deal in the way of ghosts or queer sights4 ,for instance1 just beyond the little enclosure of our hereditary ,amo1 where the little sluggish river runs in the woods beyond the ancient stone foundation1 evergrown with trees1 there are spaces where occasionally the figure of a man appears and disappears through the trees1 and old rags of clothing flitter behind him4 ,there last ,saturday1 while two men were at work1 what at ,i don't know1 perhaps looking after vanilla1 one of them looked up and saw on the face of the little cliff1 a small hole1 not noticed before1 out of which at once stepped an old man dressed partly in an ancient manner1 who dusted his clothing as he got erect and then disappeared4 ,the two men went to the spot and found the hole4 ,there was some talk of enlarging it and digging into it1 but the discoverer objected so strongly1 and has still kept up his objection so well that nothing more has happened4 ,the shark is connected with our cousin ,ariie's family at ,tautira and has still power with them4 ,not so long ago ,ariie's mother came here worn out and dusty1 having ridden instead of having been carried in her canoe as usual4 ,she told the following story--she had intended to come but had declined to bring her daughter with her4 ,now her daughter is a believer in the shark1 and she thereupon told her mother that she should not get off4 ,nothing would induce her to say more but the mother was rowed up inside the reef as we had been on the same course along the coast of ,pueu4 ,i don't know exactly where it was1 but somewhere in the evening the rowers complained that their path was obstructed by a large shark4 ,the old lady ordered them to row on2 as they did so she looked up from the bottom of the boat where she lay with her head wrapped up in the usual loin-cloth or pareu4 ,she saw before them1 an enormous shark1 lying at right angles to the boat1 partly out of the water1 and all along his back a row of lights like lamps lit up the water4 ,unwillingly the men obeyed her orders to row on and struck the fish full on the side without making it move away1 the boat running up on his back4 ,then she determined to return and when she got home1 rebuked her daughter angrily1 for she knew that it was her daughter who had done this1 and rather than yield to her she had come the whole way with horses4 ,tati says the girl is known to have power that way and that she calls upon this protector when she is angry4 ,upon such occasions a special odour easily to be recognized as the smell of the shark fills the air4 ,as far as ,i can see the shark is at least a cousinly god to us1 somewhat of a relation and protector1 and henceforth1 ,i think as ,i suggested above1 we ought to be safe from him at sea4 ,as in the story of the ancestress1 ,queen ,hototu1 so important and aristocratic1 freedom could belong to women where descent and inheritance placed her above others4 ,daughters transferred to their children rank and title1 and consequently property1 and in fault of other heirs could become chief4 ,the mother1 therefore1 of an heiress to a title was another chief even to her husband1 and had privileges that he could not have2 for instance1 a seat in the family temple4 ,all this she transmitted to her child4 ,the mother of our old chiefess was known by at least thirteen different names1 each of which was a title1 each of which conveyed land2 so she was1 for instance1 ,marama in ,moorea and owned almost all the island2 so she was ,aromaiterai in ,papara4 ,this investiture would be received for a child1 as child to a chief1 would be carried to the family temple to be made sacred1 as was done in this case1 thirteen different temples having received the child1 the mother of our chiefess4 ,as in all ,polynesia the ,arii or chiefs were more or less sacred as was the ground upon which they rested2 but that was only among their own connections4 ,there the inferior chiefs1 men or women1 out of respect stripped themselves down to the waist4 ,that is why ,captain ,wallis relates that ,tutaha as well as ,vairatoa1 stripped in the presence of ,amo1 our ancestor1 and his little son4 ,why exactly the wife of ,vairatoa uncovered herself up to the waist when she presented cloth to ,wallis1 ,i have not been exactly able to find out1 but ,tati says it was probably from the same notion of very great respect4 ,so you see the connection of the marae with the chieftain's power2 a knowledge of maraes and of the origin and descent of families is intimately connected4 ,each family had its stone in the maraes where it claimed family worship4 ,the ,teva's original marae is said to be that of ,opooa in the sacred island of ,raiatea2 but their own tradition makes it1 as ,i have said1 at ,mataua1 where the head of the ,tevas wore the maro tea4 ,when ,temanutunu1 the husband of ,hototu1 mother of ,teva1 brought back the red feathers from the ,pomotus1 to be worn in marae by his son1 he founded the temple or marae of ,punaauia4 ,thus the story indicates that ,vaiari and ,papeari were the original centres1 and ,punauia and ,papara chiefs wore the red or yellow girdle in right of descent from ,vaiari4 ,we must understand that power did not reside in the mere wearing of this girdle2 it was only a symbol of the power of descent which represented alliances of families in a land where blood was everything1 where a chiefess killed her child if not of high enough birth4 ,do you remember1 or have you read1 in the 8,voyage of the ,duff10 the terrible time the missionaries had with 8,iddeah10 the wife of the older ,pomar8 ,it is almost a pity not to quote it in full2 and if ,i had the 8,voyage0 by me ,i should do so4 ,like ,oberea1 she was more or less separated from her husband1 and had1 like the great ,catherine or the great ,elizabeth1 a young favourite who went about with her everywhere1 as the missionaries saw4 ,he was of low blood2 hence the necessity of putting the child to death2 and as all this was openly understood1 the missionaries undertook to persuade 8,iddeah0 7as the missionaries called her7 to abandon the hereditary notion4 ,notwithstanding every exhortation1 she declined to do so1 and killed her child according to custom2 though like a politic person1 she promised not to do so again4 ,and ,i have told you about the late ,queen ,pomar and her affairs4 ,hence again1 everywhere the marae comes into the story of the islands2 with it1 of course1 begins the families--no marae1 no family--and with the building of the greatest marae of all1 the one that ,cook saw and described in its new importance1 the power of the ,tevas culminated and was broken forever4 ,you know that we saw its ruins on the beach of ,atimaono1 and walked up the crumbling slopes of coral1 with ,pri and ,winfred ,brander1 whose ancestors built the family temple4 ,the pride of the ,tevas1 the pride of ,oberea1 brought on the revenge of the offended4 ,but that part of the story ,i must put off1 and tell you some of those that go further back4 ,the ,tevas were proud and domineering1 but the family of ,papara1 of which was ,amo1 and where flourished ,oberea his wife1 were still more so2 for ,papara was the leader politically4 ,historically the chieftainesses of ,vaiari and ,punaauia1 as we saw by the story of the origin of the ,tevas1 were older and of greater dignity2 but it was the ,chief of ,papara who called out the ,tevas1 who presided over them1 and who alone had the right to order human sacrifices for the clans4 ,there were1 as you know1 eight ,tevas1 inner and outer1 the inner ones ,papara1 ,atimaono1 ,mataiae1 and ,papeari2 the four outer ones1 the four districts of the peninsula of ,taiarapu2 ,paea and ,punaauia were tributary4 ,the origin of this limitation1 the origin of this power1 goes back to some great and uncertain distance which ,i have not been able to ascertain1 but it may be a thousand years back or not more than five or six hundred4 ,that could perhaps be determined more closely by a more extended inquiry4 ,at that time ,papara was subject or tributary to ,vaiari1 and when ,mataiea belonged to the ,chief of ,vaiari4 ,for this liberation of ,papara1 and placing it at the head of the ,tevas1 ,oro1 not the god1 but a chief of that name1 is the cause4 ,he was a small chief within ,papara4 ,his father's name was ,tiaau2 you will remember my speaking of him in connection with the little chiefery of ,amo1 to which ,adams and ,i have succeeded2 and you may remember the story of the chief and of his paepae#be there1 all grown over now1 and of the cocoanut that served as a watch-tower4 ,it all comes into the story1 if told in detail4 ,there were thus battles and wars within the ,tevas1 and there is another story of ,papara and our ancestors into which a woman comes again1 and not only one woman but another4 ,i leave it as ,i first wrote it down1 though it suggests in itself much alteration and explanation4 ,i shall call it3 ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,taurua ,,or ,,the ,,loan ,,of ,a ,,wife ,tavi ruled in ,taiarapu1 known for his wild generosity1 and for the beauty of his wife1 ,taurua ,paroto4 ,to him ,tuiterai of ,papara sent messengers1 begging the loan of his wife for the space of seven days4 ,there may have been hesitation on the chief's part1 but his habits of giving prevailed1 and ,taurua came to ,papara1 to spend her seven days with ,tuiterai4 ,at the end of that term she was not returned to her lord1 who sent messengers for her4 ,but ,tuiterai refused4 8,i will not give her up10 he said1 8,i1 ,tuiterai of the six skies1 her who has become to me like an ura to my eyes1 rich ura brought from ,raratoa--my dear gem6 ,i have treasured her now1 and ,i treasure her yet1 as the uras of ,faaa2 and ,i shall not give her up now4 ,no1 ,i shall not give her--why should ,i give her up--,i1 ,tuiterai1 of the six skies2 for she has become precious beyond the uras of ,raratoa80 ,thus the song preserves his refusal2 so ,tavi made war upon him1 and ,tuiterai was defeated and made prisoner1 and was upon the point of being put to death4 ,but he pleaded with his captors who had bound him1 claiming that he should be taken to ,tavi1 and1 if killed1 then killed by him a chief4 ,so that they carried him away in a canoe1 all tied up1 that he could neither move nor see2 and his bonds increased the faintness caused by his wounds4 ,but he pressed his captors to hurry1 for fear that he should die by his cords2 and he knew how far he had gone1 for his fingers1 touching the waters1 recognized the 8feeling of each river1 as every skilful swimmer knows40 ,at length he was brought before ,tavi1 and set before him1 along with ,taurua4 ,but ,tavi said to his men1 8,why did you not kill him when you had caught him8 ,it is not meet that ,i1 a chief1 should put him1 a chief1 to death40 ,and addressing ,tuiterai he said1 8,it is you that have bound me with cords that bind my heart and make the skies gloomy1 as if you had drawn them down and bound them over me4 ,you have taken one who lay in my arms1 and tied a knot between her and me1 and you have broken the ropes that tied us together--her and me4 ,take her60 ,so ,tuiterai won ,taurua4 ,but dark fate seems to have pursued the generous man1 and later ,tavi was defeated in war and fled to the ,pomotu ,islands1 where he disappeared4 ,the war again came from ,taurua the beautiful3 she had a son by ,tavi1 a son called ,tavi ,hauroa1 and ,teritua also1 and names had been given him from other places1 as ,taurua came from ,hitiaa4 ,for this child ,tavi put a taboo 7rahui7 on his land1 and tried to extend it further on1 wherever he might claim4 ,but ,taaroa ,manahune had married ,tetuae-huri1 the daughter of ,vehiatua1 and was expecting the birth of ,teu4#bf 8,your wife should eat pigs10 was said to ,taaroa2 so they eat the pigs1 resisting the claim of ,tavi1 who being at ,pai crossed at ,tehaupo1 and was beaten by ,vehiatua4 ,a part of the defeated returned from the ,pomotu1 and were granted the holding of ,afaiti1 under the boy ,tavi ,hauroa4 ,but in an evil moment1 he flew his kite over the marae of ,fareupua1 so that it was caught in the aito 7ironwood--casuarina7 trees2 and at the instigation of ,tunau1 the high-priest1 he was put to death4 ,how and why8 ,by whom8 ,was his companion also killed8 ,there would seem to be a moral to this tale1 which would run this way3 that generosity is a doubtful quality1 and that it is wiser to take another man's wife than to let go your own4 ,some explanations ,i should have woven into this story for you1 but ,i write almost directly from ,marau's recitation1 and it was only afterward that ,i got from her some more details4 ,in reality1 the right of ,tavi to place a general taboo or rahui on ,taiarapu generally was a very questionable one4 ,it might have been merely a question of pride that made him insist upon it when his claim was weak4 ,it was also1 it would seem1 a general desire in the other members of the clan to weaken its power or limit its range4 ,by making a general rahui or taboo1 as we call it1 the chief had everything that grew1 everything that was made1 everything that was caught1 set aside for a time1 for some particular use3 to make further feasts or for the food or the property of an heir1 for instance4 ,hence its frequency after the birth of a young prince or princess4 ,or it might have been that some great feasts or generosities had depleted1 if ,i may so call it1 the treasury4 ,later even1 some of the missionaries in ,catholic ,islands have found it useful to preserve the plants1 and allow them to increase so as to prevent the recurrence of a famine4 ,tavi had only undisputed claim over ,tautira1 ,afaahiti1 ,hiri1 and in ,tai4 ,vehiatua ruled over the southern and western parts of ,taiarapu1 as far as ,teahupo and ,vairoa4 ,the little ,teu1 who was born of ,tetuae-huri1 the daughter of the ,vehiatua that defeated poor ,tavi1 became the big and important ,teu founder and first of the ,pomars1 called kings by the missionaries1 who did much to establish them in that position1 unknown to the mind and the customs of the ,polynesians of the ,east ,pacific4 ,the son of ,tavi1 who came back from the ,pomotus1 and was received in royal style and given the district now called ,afaahiti1 was killed at the marae of ,farepua of ,vaiari1 as ,i have just related4 ,among the chiefs who helped ,teu to his new position was ,terii nui o ,tahiti1 who bears a very interesting name3 ,the ,great ,chief of ,tahiti4 ,in this case the word ,tahiti refers to a marae of ,vaieri1 not to the island4 ,besides ,farepua1 ,vaieri had this marae of ,tahiti1 which very probably gave its name to the island at some remote period2 and it must have been a ,teva name4 ,the fortune of the ,papara family seems to have come up at various times1 and to have culminated at the time of ,purea 7our ,oberea74 ,her pride and the pride of the ,tevas brought about disaster long after she had passed from power4 ,the woman began and the woman ended4 ,she was married to ,amo 7of ,cook71 as we know 7,teviahitua71 and was herself the daughter of ,vaetua1 ,chief of ,faaa1 the district between the ,tevas and the ,purionu2 whence later were to come the ,pomars1 enemies of the ,tevas and of the house of ,papara4 ,her real name was1 as ,i have said before1 ,te ,vahine ,aviorohe i ,ahurai4 ,her brother ,teihohe i ,ahurai had a daughter who married ,vairatoa1 whose daughter ,marama was the mother of our old chiefess1 and consequently the grandmother of our queen and princesses4 ,in this way1 then1 ,pomar ,,ii1 who became king1 was the second cousin of this last ,marama2 and1 as in ,tahiti cousins are brothers and sisters1 ,pomar called her sister4 ,hence1 again1 the tendency between the last ,pomars and the old lady to make matters right again1 and to join the families by marriage1 as when ,marau married the last ,pomar 7,v71 or when ,pomar ,,iii wished our old chiefess to be queen1 instead of the famous lady whom we know as ,queen ,pomar1 with whom our adopted chiefess was always most friendly and intimate4 ,and so at the time of the last century1 ,purea1 or ,oberea1 had no superior1 unless the head of the older ,vaiari branch4 ,teriirere1 the son of ,amo and ,purea1 was a child when ,wallis came1 hence must have been born in the neighbourhood of #agfj2 and in his honour and for his advantage1 a rahui or taboo was placed upon all the ,tevas for the child4 ,the might of the rahui was great2 the power to impose it1 as it confirmed rights and prestige1 gave great umbrage1 and there was a way of breaking it without war that could be resorted to4 ,that was to have a chief or person of equal rank1 or a relation of the same degree1 come as a guest to the place where the rahui existed4 ,according to custom the guest was entitled to receive as guest all that could be given1 and that meant all the accumulations of the rahui4 ,terii ,vaetua1 ,purea's own mother1 determined to break it1 and came from their home in ,faaa1 in her double canoe1 with the tent upon it indicative of royalty 7fare-oa74 ,the canoe bearing her mother entered the sacred pass in the reef opposite the outu of ,mataiatea4 ,this pass was reserved for princes alone4 ,purea was living at that time opposite the pass1 some little way 7two miles7 from ,papara1 and called out to the canoe as it entered3 8,who dares venture through our sacred pass8 ,know they not that the ,tevas are under the sacred rahui for ,teriirere i ,tooarai8 ,not even the cocks may crow or the ocean storm40 ,her mother answered1 8,it is 7,i am7 ,terri ,vaetua1 ,queen of ,ahurai40 8,how many royal heads can there be80 said ,purea4 8,i know no other than ,teriirere4 ,down with your tent60 ,in vain ,vaetua wept and cut her head1 according to custom1 with a shark's tooth1 until the blood flowed4 ,she was obliged to return without a reception from ,purea4 ,then a grand-daughter of ,terii ,vaetua1 a girl under twenty1 a niece of ,purea's1 made an attempt in the same direction4 ,but the same cry came from ,purea3 8,down with your tent60 ,tetuanui 7,reaiteatua7 the girl1 came ashore1 sat down upon the beach1 and in the same way cut her head until the blood flowed into the sand1 according to the old custom1 asking1 if unredeemed1 blood for blood4 ,manea1#bg the high-priest1 her brother-in-law1 then came upon the scene4 ,he feared the danger of making enemies of the ,auhrai princesses1 and he said thus3 8,hush1 ,purea6 ,whence is the saying1 the pahus 7drums7 of ,matairea call ,tutunai for a maro ura for ,teriirere i ,tooarai4 ,where will they wear the maro ura8 ,maro ura--the red girdle of royalty and surpreme chiefhood4 ,in ,nuura i ,ahurai4 ,one end of the maro holds the ,purionu1 the other end the ,tevas2 the whole holds the ,oropoa40 7,words that ,i do not quite understand1 as given by ,marau1 but which implied the danger of breaking up their union47 8,i recognize no head here but ,teriirere10 answered ,purea4 ,then ,manea1 unable to do more than to clear himself1 and make what amends were in his power1 for the insult he could not prevent or turn away1 wiped with a cloth the blood shed by ,tetuanui1 and took her to his house4 ,when1 forty years after1 ,tetuanui took her revenge in the massacre of the family of ,papara1 this action of ,manea saved part of them2 and through him we descend1 in the male line1 from the ,tuiterai of the preceding generation4 ,from ,tetuanui1 by her marriage with ,varatao1 the first ,pomar chief of the unfriendly ,purionu1 was born ,pomar ,,ii1 the first king and he who became the chief enemy of the ,tevas4 ,marau1 in relating all this story1 on different occasions1 felt1 ,i believe1 the old pride of ,purea beat through her3 her voice rose in repeating the words3 8,down with your tent60 and 8,i know no other royal head than ,teriirere40 ,i could almost believe that it was she who asserted herself in the person of her great ancestress4 ,but for all that1 now before the final disaster1 the house ,papara seems to have met a great check again1 in a display of the power and pride of ,purea4 ,she and ,amo built for ,teriirere a new marae on that same point where the ladies of ,ahurai shed their blood in protest--,mahaiatea and ,amo took its foundation stone 7if ,i may so call it7 from the original marae of ,taputuoarai4 ,cook has described it as he saw it in #agfd--the most important building of the kind he had seen4 ,and over its remains ,i have scrambled1 as you know1 unawares of all that it had meant4 ,how much better can ,i understand the resistance made by our old chiefess to letting it be used as a quarry for the buildings of the great plantation of ,atimaono1 the great sugar estate of the adventurer ,stuart2 now involved in a ruin like to that of the old temple4 ,the chiefess1 for this refusal1 was removed from her position for a time2 how reinstated ,i do not know4 ,you know that ,i told you before1 she is a chiefess1 recognized by the ,french ,government1 as well as by inheritance1 ,tati acting for her4 ,it was one of those outrages that the new generations perpetrate on the old2 and in this case more disgraceful than usual4 ,but few people sympathize with the 8lachrymae rerum0 that touched the pagan poet4 ,you must look up ,cook's description1 which ,i have not by me4 ,everything in the way of books here is fragmentary1 the public library usually unvisited1 and many of its possessions scattered carelessly4 ,the completion of this monument coincided with the beginning of the war that drove ,amo and ,oberea away1 and ruined ,papara for a time2 a war which occurred between ,cook's first and second voyages2 so that he found his former friends reduced in power and dignity4 ,the ,vehiatua of that time1 with ,taiarapu and the ,purionu1 joined in the attack upon ,papara thus breaking the ,teva power from within4 ,there is a poem1 difficult to render1 which is associated with this completion of the marae1 and which seems to bring the war from that4 ,there has been much trouble to make a settled translation of it4 ,the one which ,i add is a revised translation by ,moetia1 conferring with the others1 whose translation in the rough ,i have kept separate4 ,i give you ,marau's own copy4 8,a standard is raised at ,tooarai ,like the crash of thunder ,and flashes of lightning ,and the rays of the midday sun ,surround the standard of the ,king ,the ,king of the thousand skies4 ,honour the standard ,of the ,king of the thousand skies6 8,a standard is raised at ,matahihae ,in the presence of ,vehiatua ,the rebels ,taisi and ,tetumanua ,who broke the ,king's standard ,and ,oropaa is troubled4 ,if your crime had but ended there6 ,the whole land is laid prostrate4 ,thou art guilty ,o ,purahi 7,vehiatua7 ,of the ,reva ura of your ,king4 ,broken by the people of ,taiarapu ,by which we are all destroyed ,thou bringest the greatest of armies ,to the laying of stones ,of the marae of ,mahaitea4 8,poahutea at ,punaavia ,tepau at ,ahurai ,teriimaroura at ,tarahoi ,maraianuanua the land where the ,poor idiot was killed6 ,eimeo the land that is decked ,by the ura and the pii4 8,the prayers are finished ,and the call has been given ,to ,puni at ,farerua 7,borabora7 ,to ,raa at ,tupai 7an island belonging to ,borabora7 ,to the high priest ,teae1 ,go to ,tahiti ,there is an oroa at ,tahiti ,auraareva for ,teriirere of ,tooarai4 ,thou hast sinned ,o ,purahi6 ,thou hast broken the ,reva ura of the ,king4 ,taiarapu has caused ,the destruction of us all ,the approach of the front rank ,has unloosed the ura4 ,one murderous hand ,four in and four out4 ,if you had but listened ,to the voice of ,amo1 ,oropaa6 ,let us take our army ,by canoe and by land1 ,we have only to fear the ,mabitaupe and the dry reef of ,uaitoata4 8,there we will die the death ,of ,pairi ,temaharu and ,pahupua4 ,the coming of the great army of ,tairapu ,has swept ,papara away ,and drawn its mountains with it 7the ,king7 ,thou hast sinned ,purahi ,thou and ,taiarapu ,hast broken the ,reva ura of the ,king ,and hast caused the ,destruction of us all40 ,this is ,moetia's and ,marau's translation1 ,i do not know whose copy it is--,moetia's or ,marau's4 ,i got it from the latter4 ,this song of reproof1 cherished by the ,teva1 as a protest against fate1 explains how the dissensions among the different branches of the eight clans allowed them to become a prey to the rising power of the ,purionu clans1 headed by ,pomar1 the son of one of those ,ahurai princes whose blood ran into the sand near where the great marae of ,oberea was built1 as ,i have told you a little further back4 ,the vicissitudes of wars1 the changes brought about by the influence of the foreigner1 all of which worked in favour of the ,pomar1 culminated in a final struggle in ,december1 #ahae4 ,the partisans of the old order1 both social and religious1 were headed by ,opufara1 the brother of ,tati1 the ,chief of ,papara4 ,on the other side were the partisans of ,pomar1 the ,christians1 the white men and their guns4 ,to accentuate still more the character of the contest1 the final battle began on a ,sunday1 the attack being made by the pagans during the service which ,pomar attended4 ,as in medival times1 in our own history1 the ,christians did not begin the fight until the conclusion of the prayers in which they were engaged4 ,on the other side the inspired prophets who guided the pagans urged them to predicted victory4 ,the cannon of the ,christians checked the fierce onslaught of the men of ,opufara2 though for a short time their courage had seemed to prevail1 and ,opufara fell first1 at the head of his men4 ,he urged them bravely to continue the fight1 and at least to avenge his death1 and the struggle continued long enough for him to see their brave resistance to the superior advantages of the guns in their enemies' hands4 ,but the end came1 as we can well imagine1 and ,opufara drew his last breath as he saw the utter rout of his clan and their supporters4 ,for the first time in ,polynesian warfare ,pomar stopped the massacre about to begin1 and promised peace and pardon to all who should submit4 ,his friends1 as well as his enemies1 realized1 in their astonishment1 the enormous difference brought in by the new faith4 ,this clemency did as much as actual power to win over those defeated4 ,most all men submitted to the new great chief1 to the new religion2 the maraes were destroyed1 the image of the god ,oro1 a palladium long fought over1 the cause of cruel wars1 was burned2 the people turned to ,christianity1 and the old order was completely broken up1 carrying with it the power of the chiefs on which1 unfortunately1 the social system was based2 because this power was more intimately connected with religious awe and belief than with military supremacy4 ,had ,i more time1 ,i should have liked to describe more fully the details of what ,i have only indicated4 ,the whole story of the years between the decadence of ,oberea's control and ,pomars triumph is full of meaning to the ,teva4 ,with our clan1 ,opufara is still a representative of its courage and its pride4 ,with no little feeling does ,queen ,marau urge me1 when ,i return to ,paris1 to seek out the omare or club of the great ,chief ,opufara1 preserved perhaps yet in the ,muse des ,souverains4 ,in the ,museum at ,sydney in ,australia1 among the fragments and samples of cloth and dresses collected by ,captain ,cook1 ,i shall perhaps find some bits of the garments of ,oberea4 ,saturday1 ,june #fth at ,sea4 ,wednesday was to be our last day4 ,we had decided to join the steamer chartered by us for ,fiji not on its arrival but later at ,hitiaa on the opposite southeastern coast of the island1 partly to see the other side of the island1 partly to say good-bye to ,tati who would load our steamer with oranges4 ,we were to leave at noon for our drive around the island and there were to be prayers that day in all the churches against the illness now afflicting the island4 ,the ,king was ill2 our chiefess wished her family to be present at church4 ,before the breakfast to which we were asked1 she bade us good-bye as she proposed to return to church3 they have a way there of spending the day off and on--the natives--as we remembered at ,tautira4 ,she drank our healths and made us a little speech1 having kissed ,tauraatua1 and holding our hands in her soft palms1 she wished us again good-bye4 ,she was very dignified and simple4 ,nothing could have been simpler or more touching4 ,as ,i remember1 she wished us the usual safe journey home and health and 8hoped that we might return1 where1 if we did not find her1 we should at least find her children40 ,after that we had a long and cheerful breakfast with the remaining family1 and then we drove away around the coast to ,hitiaa which we reached in the early evening4 ,the drive1 though a rough one1 was beautiful2 of course we could not see inland the high mountains and deep valleys1 except when on one occasion we crossed a wide river and valley and could look back4 ,but we skirted the sea everywhere1 and our road ran between the cliffs1 every few rods making new and exquisite pictures of sea and trees and rocks1 and of waters running to the sea4 ,i do not know if this side of the island be finer1 all is so lovely in detail1 but it is bolder and more rocky4 ,i thought1 as we drove along and had passed ,point ,venus1 how well chosen had been ,bougainville's name of ,nouvelle ,cythere1 for we were on his side of the island4 ,the feminine beauty of the landscape and its 8infinite variety0 completed the ideal of a place where woman was most kind4 ,the charm of the day closed in our arrival at ,hitiaa where we were to pass the night--in a little village of pretty huts set in cleanly order1 in a grove of high bread-fruit trees4 ,all was green even to the road1 except a few spaces in front of houses1 neatly pebbled4 ,in the shade were the figures of ,tati and of our hosts1 coming to meet us--all in light colours1 white1 blue1 red1 and yellow1 making a picture that might have done for a ,watteau4 ,we dined out on the green right by the shore1 where the surf broke a few feet from us4 ,the air was sweet with odours1 and cool4 ,it was pleasant to be with ,tati again and hear his laugh1 something like ,richardson's1 whom he resembles in size as well as in many little matters4 ,but ,i know that ,i said this before4 ,we slept in a cleanly native hut1 of the usual style1 a long thatched building1 lifted on a stone base with a floor1 and sides made of rods like a cage1 but with ,european doors4 ,at either semi-circular end1 muslin was hung along the walls so as to exclude the light and to protect a little from draught4 ,each end had a curtain drawn across it1 so that one's bed was enclosed1 but our host and hostess watched us to the last with unabated kindness4 ,everything was scrupulously clean4 ,the next morning was like the evening4 ,blue clouds blown over a pink sky1 all far above us1 for all the trees rose high and we moved about from shade to shade4 ,tati had driven away before daylight to put oranges on board4 ,the village was very silent1 as if deserted4 ,we spent the morning in idleness2 walked to the great ,tamanu trees at the end of the village of which ,tati had told us when he tried to find words for the impression of solemnity which ,european ,cathedrals had made upon him4 ,the trees are like great oaks1 but rise with a great sweep before branching4 ,right by the road is a cluster of them with great roots1 all grown together in a lifted mass4 ,we sat idly by the sea and looked at ,taiarapu all in blue1 and at the sea between us and our little ,tautira also all blue1 which we shall never see again4 ,men1 on the inside reef alongside1 were fishing1 standing patiently in the water4 ,over us1 stretching far and touching the water at places1 spread the great ,tamanu trees4 ,we sat there in their shade4 ,the water came up to my feet and washed out my drawings in the sand1 as memories of things are effaced4 ,it was pleasant to be absolutely idle1 listening to the soft noise of the tide rolling minute pebbles on the sand1 looking at its edges fringed with bubbles1 that folded one over the other like drapery1 and watching the wet fade smoothly off the shore4 ,the trade wind blew strong4 ,the air was very cool4 ,mrs4 ,tati gave us breakfast with a smile of welcome and iorana1 and little ,tita flirted with us4 ,then ,i slept2 and waking determined to have some record of this our last day1 and sat again on the shore1 and made a note of ,taiarapu across the water on which the rainbow played4 ,near me the surf ran in rapidly on the shallows1 all in blue shade2 the ,tamanu's branches above me were reflected in the motion--and underneath the trees1 boys paddled in and out1 in their little boats without outriggers1 using their hands for paddles1 so that as they swung their arms they looked as if swimming hand over hand4 ,it was still very cool1 and ,i felt that ,i had probably exposed myself to what is the danger of this place at this time4 ,it can be so cool after heat1 and so damp with such draughts that ,i do not wonder at the constant colds and troubles of the lungs that ,i have noticed4 ,i should call it a lovely climate--and an exquisite climate--but not one for a pulmonary patient4 ,now ,i am astonished that ,piri's doctors sent her back here4 ,in the evening we had ,tati again at dinner and talked with him about his perhaps coming over in '#ic1 ,exposition time1 and about the correctness of his sister's translations of poetry4 ,we tried in vain to get some love songs1 though he promised to send some to me later1 but he told us stories of ,turi1 famous for prowess in love--the ,arabian love of the ,south ,seas--also of the tradition of an isle inhabited by women only1 such as is told of on the farther shores of the ,pacific1 and such as ,ariosto wrote of2 and some anecdotes1 not to their credit1 of ,pomar the great or his father ,teu1 some of the scandalous scenes of which had been enacted not far from there1 and had been commemorated in the names of the rivers4 8,but perhaps after all10 ,tati said1 8they were no worse than other chiefs who lived before them1 for as they all had unlimited power that power led them to many excesses40 ,the next morning we arose to find the little steamer some three miles off4 ,perhaps there were fewer rocky ledges upon our path nor did we see the olive gray mist of the aito trees 7iron wood7 against the blue sea1 or the shining wet rocks4 ,but otherwise it was like a continuation of the ride of the day before1 a dragging through grassy1 wet roads1 and plunging into small streams1 where coral rocks whitened the clear grey bottom4 ,a very few people nodded to us as we passed4 ,i suppose that most every one was engaged at the packing of the oranges further away2 orange trees filled the roads1 the peel of oranges in long1 yellow spirals1 dotted the grassy edges of the rivers hear the huts4 ,small black pigs scampered and tore away into the 8brush0 on either side1 where in a hollow of the road undisturbed by our passing so close1 old ,eumaeus the swine-herd crouched alongside of his black hogs who ate savagely what he had provided4 ,and again we came to such a place as we had seen on our drive of ,wednesday1 something never noticed elsewhere by us1 where some ledge of rock came up toward the sea1 leaving only a narrow passage4 ,there a little wicker fence had been built across the road resting against the rock on one side and the trees on the slope below2 and there we opened a gate1 as if all this lovely land had been but some domain1 and had been set out in its beauty of arrangement by skilful hands1 to please owners who lived perhaps inland1 behind the vague spaces of forest trees1 or up the hazy valleys4 ,all that was wanting to the idyl was what we had seen before1 red bunches of wild bananas brought down from the mountains and hung on bamboo poles or left supported by branches and roots1 on the wayside1 along with heaps of cocoanuts half hidden in grassy hollows1 giving the idea that other owners and gatherers had but just placed them there while they went off for a moment2 for a plunge into cool water perhaps1 after the hard toil of the carrying4 ,tati has explained to us how that really the owners were not far away1 but that afraid at our coming or at that of others they were concealed4 ,it was what is called their consciences1 or rather what the ,french have subtly called 8le respect humain10 that drove these good people into concealment behind pandanus or orange trees4 ,that day that we drove away1 leaving our dear chiefess go to church1 was all through the country1 apparently1 a church holiday1 and no one having gone to the mountains for such worldly things as banana food wished to be seen at work1 when all were apparently moving to and from the churches1 clad in brightest garments1 and looking like the lilies of the field4 ,but this morning1 like yesterday1 was a day of work2 and soon we saw along the shore and drove past it1 a very long shed1 with shining thatch1 and with hanging curtains of matted palm1 where were many people1 men1 women and children1 who had been packing oranges and now were resting and eating4 ,the place was as joyous and full as the previous land had been solitary2 work had stopped1 the last boxes of oranges were being taken to the ship in double canoes1 that is to say1 two canoes joined together by an upper planking or deck of canes4 ,on one of these with our luggage1 we also embarked--the ropes that were fastened to the trees on shore to steady the steamer1 were loosened1 the anchors lifted1 and with a good-bye to ,tati we were off4 ,that afternoon we saw little of the island lost in cloud until we turned the corner of ,point ,venus1 and looked up the gorges that led toward the ,aorai4 ,then soon we were in ,papeete and could go ashore and watch the packet from ,san ,francisco just sailing in behind us1 and try to say good-bye again4 ,again ,i felt the curious twinge of parting1 again ,ori's wife ,haapi kissed my hands4 ,the late afternoon flooded the island and the clouds half covering it with a dusty haze of yellow light4 ,the sea tossed fresh and blue as if lit by another sky4 ,we passed the fantastic peaks and crags of ,moorea1 seen for the first time on its other side and wrapped above in the scud of the trade winds blowing in our favour4 ,so in a gentle sadness the two islands faded into the dark2 the end of the charm we have been under--too delicate ever to be repeated4 ,there ,i thought1 five hundred years ago1 ,i was young1 happy and famous1 along with ,tauraatua4 8,ils sont passs1 ces jours de fte1 ,ils sont passs1 ils ne reviendront plus40 ,if only when ,i received my name and its associations ,i could have been given the memories of my long youth2 the reminiscence of similar days spent in an exquisite climate1 in the simplest evolution of society1 in great nearness to ,nature1 that ,i might find comfort in those recollections against the weariness of that civilized life which is to surround my few remaining years4 ,d4 ,m4 ,oberea ,s ,posuit ,teraitua ,,tahiti ,,to ,,fiji ,sunday1 ,june #adth1 at ,sea4 ,lat4 #bj-db ,s4 #hci miles from ,rarotonga4 ,long4 #agd-dd ,w41 #dca miles to ,fiji4 ,on ,tuesday we were before ,rarotonga3 on ,tuesday according to the ways of the place1 where1 as in ,samoa1 the missionaries made an error in time1 and have never dared to rectify it4 ,but to us outsiders it would have been nearly a ,monday1 though later1 no doubt1 the captain would throw off a day for us as we went west1 perhaps even drop it here politely4 ,rarotonga of the ,cook ,islands is a little island about twenty miles around1 with outlines reminding one of ,moorea2 the look of a great crater whose sides had been broken out1 leaving sharp crags and here and there curious peaks4 ,i had been suffering very much from my ancient enemy1 sciatica1 which declared itself almost as soon as we left ,tahiti1 and has kept me in pain up to this moment4 ,but ,i managed to get ashore1 and to take a long walk along the pretty road that goes around the island4 ,we called on the ,resident1 ,mr4 ,moss who took us to see the ,queen or ,chiefess ,makea1 for whom we had a letter from ,queen ,marau4 ,she was the usual tall1 smiling ,polynesian chiefess1 pleased at the addresses of her letter1 which made her out a queen1 as she showed to the ,resident4 ,for ,i gathered in the careless accidents of conversation1 she had been lately elected chiefess by a parliament composed of representatives of the islands who are supposed to have federated for a general government4 ,but ,makea is a chiefess of great descent1 being straight from ,rarika1 one of the two chiefs who years ago met here1 one of them coming from ,tahiti1 the other from ,samoa2 one driven away1 the other in exploration2 and who colonized the islands1 and in the persons of their descendants fought for supremacy down to this date4 ,so that it is something that this representative of one descent should have been agreed upon4 ,many of these traditions have been recorded by the ,rev4 ,w4 ,w4 ,gill in his 8,myths and ,songs from the ,south ,pacific02 though his book refers particularly to ,mangaia which is a neighbouring island about one hundred miles distant4 8,yes10 said the ,queen1 8,moni ,gill40 ,she had seen his book and proposed to make some corrections4 ,money ,gill1 he was nicknamed because he was so fond of money4 ,let me add that ,i also understood that the gentleman was generous enough and not mean4 ,the missionaries have had complete control all this time2 and yet things 8laissent dsirer10 as the ,french have it4 ,there has been a system of 8government10 as ,mr4 ,moss rather ironically sounded the name4 ,there had been one hundred policemen in this little island of ,rarotonga4 ,each policeman was a deacon1 and the punishment of everything was a fine2 the fines being pooled together and divided afterward4 ,many deeds were fined and punished that were innocent or excusable1 but all the fining had not in these thirty years increased the chastity of the women4 ,though the reports of the missions do not carry out this fact1 the individual missionaries admit it1 and what weakening of real authority has resulted one can only guess4 ,some years ago the missionaries objected to smoking4 ,to-day our missionary on board has a cigar or pipe in his mouth most of the time4 ,in those years ,makea was fined and excommunicated for smoking a cigarette4 ,being driven out she became reckless1 and ,i am 8credibly informed10 drank and 8even danced40 ,and so her example stood in the way1 and the missionary came back to her and begged her to return and be disexcommunicated1 even if she should smoke2 so that at least others should not have her precedent for dancing4 ,but she refused4 ,how it all ended ,i should have liked to remain to inquire1 of her or the ,resident1 but the steamer waits not1 and ,i only get these queer little bits of information by chance hearing4 ,but you know that ,i believe that one gets a good deal from such trifles4 ,i find the ,british ,resident cheerfully hopeful of getting these people under some shape of government other than the kind of thing they had which cannot last4 ,he took us to the building which is a schoolhouse and ,parliament house1 and we heard a little of what he was doing to get them to regulate matters in some shape that can serve as a basis4 ,but you can imagine what little difficulties come up when those of the neighbouring island1 whose chiefess ,namuru ,i saw at the ,queen's1 had sent word in their innocence that they had fined a ,chinaman for complaining to her and writing what they called a lying letter4 ,in their ,polynesian simplicity 7and they are shrewd enough7 they had forgotten that in an interview they had admitted all and given the ,resident every detail4 ,but there is no doubt that everywhere1 the native churchmen1 put up to the use of arbitrary authority1 will do many queer things--things that everybody knows of through all the ,south ,seas1 so that there is no need of detailing them4 ,they suffer1 too1 from having but one book1 the ,bible1 which 7especially the ,old ,testament7 they know by heart1 and where they can easily find a precedent for anything they may choose4 ,they might get ideas from other books1 but then they would have to learn ,english1 etc4 8,what then will happen80 say the missionaries4 8,do you see these good people reading ,zola80 ,their conduct is somewhat ,zolaish at times1 but then it is carried out in their own language4 ,hence much objection to teaching them ,english or anything that might lead to danger4 ,it is the old trouble that missionaries have always found--more especially if they were obliged by principle to suppose that they might have some liberty of choice4 ,the position is a hard one4 ,i saw the expression of the missionary's wife when another hinted under his breath that perhaps the ,catholic ,sisters might be allowed to come and teach4 ,such an extremity1 however1 would blow things sky-high2 and if it be necessary that there be education1 perhaps the missionaries will consent rather than see the enemy bring it4 ,the ,english protectorate has only lately been established1 and naturally all these questions are fresh4 ,we took away with us the next day one of the missionaries1 his wife and four children1 who fill up quite a little corner of our little boat4 ,the scene at their leaving was very pretty--as far as the apparent devotion of the native women who had charge of the children4 ,they kissed their arms and legs1 and so humbly the hands of the missionaries1 with such an appealing look for answer4 ,they are pretty young people1 our clerical friends--the wife ,irish1 ,i should say--and are interesting as types4 ,the poor little lady has been ill all the time1 but ,i can see that even then she has a will of her own4 ,the care of the small baby has devolved on the husband missionary1 who has some trouble4 ,the children are wild1 good natured and ,polynesian and sing hymns with the ,polynesian accent and cadence1 occasionally bursting out in a cheerful laugh when they have apparently hit it successfully4 ,we have a ,french captain of artillery who is leaving ,tahiti for ,noumea 7,new ,caledonia7 and who tells me things of his expedition in the ,chinese war and the taking of ,formosa2 also a ,tahitian judge on furlough1 who confirms what ,i have seen of the oral claims to land through genealogies committed to memory1 the authenticity of which he has to leave to his native associates on the bench to decide4 ,this afternoon we pass two little islands1 ,onga-,onga and ,onga ,hapai1 uninhabited2 to which people come at certain seasons to make a little copra4 ,they seem lost and without relation1 for we do not understand the ocean bottom that would make all rational4 ,near them1 and some five miles from us1 a long line thicker in the middle1 is the new island thrown up some five years ago or so1 of which ,mr4 ,baker1 premier of ,tonga1 gave us an account4 ,he had visited the place while the eruption of mud was still active1 had come quite close to it1 even nearer than was safe1 for the wind came near forcing him within range of the explosion4 ,he has related it in a little pamphlet4 8,this perhaps10 says ,adams 8was the beginning of an atoll1 a mud eruption1 spreading out like this one under the sea1 a surface upon which the coral started40 ,we had seen in the morning of our second day out1 a 8low0 island1 ,mauki--a low mass upon which any elevation counted--but it was a mere mass of grey-green upon violet and blue1 in the twilight of that day1 so that we did not make it out at all4 ,the island besides has no outside lagoon like a true atoll1 but a fresh-water lake inside2 so that we have not yet seen an atoll4 ,the little volcanic islands1 perhaps both belonging to one crater1 are edges of its walls still standing1 and a long ledge that runs to meet some projecting wall or dyke1 may either belong to the side of the crater1 or may it be a raised beach8 ,adams looks carefully through the glass1 but there is too much haze4 ,the little islands grow smaller and smaller as ,i write--little patches of sharp shape1 of a fleshy violet on the clouded blue of sea and sky4 ,it is late evening4 ,the wind1 which has been unfavourable1 seems to veer a little4 ,we have been unfortunate3 the trades that should have blown steadily have almost deserted us1 but we are fortunate to have a steamer4 ,and all through we have felt cold1 though not officially1 that is to say1 at midday the thermometer marks from #hj to #hc4 ,monday1 ,june #aeth4 ,still fine weather1 blue sea1 blue sky2 some little islands--the end of a chain of reefs and islands ,onga ,fiki appears in the horizon and promises us arrival for to-morrow4 ,the passengers are more cheerful1 the children less feverish4 ,the little missionary lady plays on the piano and sings a hymn1 the ,judge leaning over her4 ,the ,captain 8profite de son dernier jour pour perfectionner0 his ,english1 and bewails with me the unreasonableness of ,english or ,british pronunciation4 8,why10 says he1 8does the steward say #8am1' for #8ham1' ,i suppose1 for he can't mean anything else1 and why does he say there is much #8hair' when the wind blows8 ,french seems more logical40 ,i comfort him as best ,i can1 but he no doubt has a hard time before him4 ,more islands to the northwest1 and later at night we shall make others1 and to-morrow be at ,suva of ,fiji2 unless we run on some reef1 but the captain has been here before--some ten years ago1 it is true4 ,,fiji ,suva1 ,wednesday1 ,june #agth4 ,yesterday we arrived as expected1 and have been since that1 reposing in the calm that can never so pleasantly come upon one as after an uncomfortable sea voyage4 ,the steamer1 unknown to the island1 unawaited1 must have appeared to bring some important news3 perhaps something in the nature of a disturbance or trouble in some of the places connected with this one politically2 perhaps in ,rarotonga that we had left1 where the new ,english order is but recent4 ,but if such was the case we knew nothing of it1 and waited quietly on board in the beautiful little harbour2 looked at the lines of mountains on one side of the amphitheatre1 edge upon edge of blue2 upon the reef's haze of white light2 and on the other side1 upon the little town stretched out on low land1 but prettily connected with the distance1 and high land by little hills picturesquely balanced and arranged1 with trees and houses and some native buildings2 and then along the beach1 the usual shops and trade buildings1 more ,british than anything we had yet seen4 ,each of the five spots we have disembarked at has had a distinct character1 more distinct now that we compare them1 and nothing could be further1 in its small way1 from the other small way of ,tahiti3 ancient1 provincial1 ,french1 sad and charming as the setting of some opera-comique that ,i have never seen1 but should have liked to invent4 ,here everything was brisk and clear and promising1 as if typical of the promise of something1 while ,papeete of ,tahiti held the remains of some former system of government and business4 ,little schooners with sails set were anchored in the harbour2 a three-masted ship and ,h4 ,r4 ,m4 ,s4 ,cordelia gave importance to the scene4 ,steam launches plied about4 ,on the wharf1 ,east ,indian coolies1 turbaned and draped1 were grouped with their women in great white draperies or in bold colours1 all yellow and all green1 or in one case with a violet sari edged with light blue1 and a gown of dark blue edged with the same2 all these gracious folds thrown out in great masses when they moved1 so that even far as we were one could see the movement of the limbs4 ,there are now1 ,i was told when ,i asked1 some seven thousand of the ,east ,indian people in these islands2 for the ,fijians are ,polynesians and work little4 ,so that as elsewhere1 the growth of sugar or cotton1 or in fact anything requiring continuous care and some exertion1 cannot be carried on without the outsider--,east ,indians1 ,chinese1 ,japanese1 or ,melanesian from other islands4 ,illustration3 ,,chiefs ,,in ,,war ,,dress ,,and ,,paint4 8,,devil0 ,,country4 ,,viti ,,levu1 ,,fiji ,the first ,fijians came up to us almost at once in the boat of the pilot2 dark chocolate figures with great shocks of hair standing out1 yellowed with lime as in ,samoa4 ,they resembled our ,samoan friends more than any we have seen yet1 notwithstanding great differences4 ,there was a certain likeness--something in the expression and in the make of the face2 only so far as these few hours give me1 the look is browner4 ,they seem more military1 more masculine2 all this impression intensified by our reminiscences of ,tahiti just left behind us1 where the healthy good humour of ,samoa seemed to fade into sadness and into a refinement that appeared feminine4 ,fine strapping fellows in red sulus 7sulu is the same as the lava-lava of ,samoa or pareu of ,tahiti--the loin drapery71 and red-edged1 white sleeveless shirts1 pulled the ,governor's gig that came out to fetch us4 ,after landing and being driven up to the ,governor's house1 we found a sentinel draped with the sulu1 and naked to the waist1 with a straight sword and belt and his musket1 pacing in front of the verandah4 ,i believe it was owing to his great shock of yellow hair1 like a grenadier's cap1 that he looked completely dressed and most decidedly a soldierly figure4 ,he or another is now walking up and down in front of me as ,i write1 and at night1 at the relief watch1 ,i know by the deep voices that he is still there1 and that ,i can sleep safely1 as safely as if he were not there--and all the more that his gun is empty4 ,the servants also about the house1 probably the same men1 wait upon us with this simple splendour2 and hand out the dishes with outstretched arm1 8from the shoulder10 and keep up1 for me1 a military look4 ,the ,governor1 ,sir ,john ,thurston1 has kindly invited us to take up quarters with him4 ,lady ,thurston and the family are away1 so that we are but few people in the long1 rambling building4 ,it is beautifully placed on a slight height1 at the edge of the town1 and faces the bay and the long line of mountains of the opposite side4 ,there are large grounds with grassy roads1 and the beginnings of a large garden which the ,governor is setting out with great success4 ,from it already he has been able to supply plants of the finest ,trinidad cocoa1 which ,i see growing in little tubs of bamboo1 which when again set out will simply rot away and leave the plant acclimated4 ,however1 ,i do not purpose to make out a list4 ,what might interest you is that the garden follows a line of moats1 once belonging to a fortified town which was here1 so that it has quite a look of meaning in its picturesqueness4 ,this is the first recognizable trace that we have yet seen of the fortified place protected by ditches4 ,we have seen walls built up in places for forts1 or arrangements of timbers and stones of a momentary character1 such as those in ,samoa2 but here the laying out of the lines seems to have been determined with some engineering intelligence1 and the space covered implies ground convenient enough for residence4 ,however1 we shall see later1 we hope1 something more of such remains1 and understand them better4 ,meanwhile we are at peace3 no more war has been noticed than the cricket match and lawn tennis games that we saw yesterday afternoon4 ,we have about us decidedly1 protection1 and something that ,i have not had for a little while1 some young ,britishers4 ,there is something very soothing to me about them1 when ,i like them at all4 ,in fact1 if this continues1 we shall feel as if we had simply rentered 8civilization0 and be completely spoiled4 ,the conversation of ,sir ,john is very interesting and instructive2 for he is not an amateur in his line1 though by the by1 he photographs very prettily4 ,suva1 ,sunday1 ,june #bast4 ,on ,thursday afternoon we accompanied ,sir ,john on a little trip up the big river ,rewa which lies to the east from here4 ,this steam launch carried us over the shallow bar1 inside the reef into the broad river which has a rapid current1 owing to the tide that runs up far enough for the breakwater to reach some twenty-five miles4 ,the river has also a considerable incline1 but the statement made us without guarantees1 seemed excessive--fifty feet in those twenty-five miles4 ,the land was low on either side1 a great delta1 and only occasionally could we see the mountains and hills in the distance4 ,the banks were high1 cut by the river1 and knobby at spots where the harder clay remaining from the washings made little lumps or eminences4 ,at first we met the mangrove swamps1 then by and by banana and cocoanut1 and visible here and there bread-fruit outlines against the sky4 ,then there was not water enough1 though the launch draws but one foot1 and even with that little had touched at the bar2 so that we landed and walked a little way to ,rewa the village or town that we were bound for4 ,a pretty little clayey road1 like a causeway1 better than any in ,samoa2 plantations and houses from place to place2 natives under the trees turned out for the great event of the ,governor's visit2 here and there in shady corners groups of young men1 putting on the final touches of the decorations in which they were to appear later3 red and black paint1 great bunches of tappa about them and girdles of black fao1 as in ,samoa1 and titis of white streamers and of many plants4 ,then we came to a sort of stockade1 the compound of the chief1 and stepped over his gate1 as usual1 some stakes planted in the ground1 waist high1 with a stepping one outside2 not in our white ideas a dignified mode of entrance4 ,inside a pretty arrangement of trees and buildings1 with that usual charm that ,i have wearied you with1 of looking as if arranged for effect1 while most probably placed merely for most convenience2 like that picturesqueness which accompanies our old farms and which seems opposed to most modern things with us4 ,we turned around the main house1 and sat down upon mats spread out in front of the river2 passing first through two little groups of natives and led by the chief1 to whom we were introduced in turn after the captain of the ,cordelia4 ,then a chief or personage of importance addressed the messenger or herald of the ,governor1 who sat in front of us on the grass1 profiled against the river1 and with certain forms1 presented to him some whale's teeth tied together1 upon which1 apparently1 everything was to depend4 ,they were accepted1 both these gentlemen curled up on the ground and the officer sidled up in what ,i suppose is due form4 ,then after a very short speech of the briefest kind1 we were led to the big house for kava and we entered on one side1 walking up the long plank--and passed through doors of heavy timber1 ornamented with sennit in patterns and found a big room covered with many mats1 soft and bed-like to the foot4 ,there we sat at the upper end1 a little raised and on more mats4 ,at the other end of the one long room were the notables4 ,the chief sat on one side near us2 as guests we had his place4 ,between the two groups a long rope with ends of clustered shells was then laid at right angles to us4 ,this was to mark the division1 said my informant1 and to enable any one who came late to find his due place4 ,at one end of the rope the ,governor's herald in jacket and yappa sulu1 at the other1 the young men making the kava 7here called yangona71 in an enormous bowl4 ,meanwhile certain persons chanted something1 with much swaying and pointing of hands and various gestures1 like a rather solemn siva4 ,among the singers was the next important chief1 who led the chant4 ,the singing was the usual ,polynesian cadence1 stopping abruptly2 and after several chants1 between which1 silence reigned1 kava had become ready and was applauded and then poured out4 ,for the first time since ,mataafa's visit ,i saw the use of the ,great ,chief's ,cup4 ,the ,governor's herald handed him his own cup1 into which the kava bearer poured a part4 ,then upon the ,governor's drinking and throwing down his bowl1 a groan of approval came from the crowd before us4 ,the same for the ,english ,captain 7,grenville72 the same for ,tauraatua and myself--who had the honour of drinking out of the 8chiefy0 bowl4 ,for others the larger1 common bowl was filled2 an advantage or not1 as one might like to have more or less of the stuff--which on the whole ,i think ,i like3 that is to say1 that one gets accustomed to it1 and that it has a clean taste and seems to brace one a little4 ,but evidently the kava here and in ,samoa is not the kava of ,tahiti1 described by ,tati1 so powerful that such a drink as our little bowl of yesterday held1 would have stupefied us surely4 ,that ceremony over1 a short speech was made1 very different from the long orations of the ,samoan tulafale4 ,it was answered by the herald and the meeting was over4 ,then we walked out of the chief's compound to the open space1 where a dance was to be given4 ,we sat under a canopy of mats1 comfortably out of the sunlight that filled the open space edged on one side1 between trees1 by a long building quite high1 with many doorways1 all high up in the wall windows4 ,this is a guest house1 divided by posts into partitions that serve for each party of travellers4 ,as they arrive they take up such a division for their use4 ,between it and the next is a narrower one occupied by a hearth1 serving the parties on both sides with the economical fire that all other people than white people make4 ,there1 when they are settled the village sends them the necessary food4 ,outside of this big building sat a crowd of many women1 while only one woman sat near us1 probably some relative of the chiefs who were near us4 ,to the right1 in a long halfcircle1 a mass of children1 most of them nude to the waist1 beneath and in front of a little bunch of trees4 ,then when all was quiet1 in trooped the chorus1 who sat down in front of us in a confused circle1 added to on the edges by occasional late comers4 ,a few were nude and adorned with leaves4 ,many of them held in their hands bamboo sticks cut to different lengths and of differing sizes4 ,these struck upon the ground gave a series of sounds according to their length and thickness--a most primitive music and a most impressive one4 ,had we heard this in surroundings untouched by the ,european1 we should no doubt have felt more keenly the extreme archaic rudeness of the method4 ,with this was mingled the chant of the others1 the usual ,polynesian chant4 ,at length1 to our left1 having come up behind us1 appeared a mass of men1 armed with clubs1 ten abreast and about fifteen in file2 an orderly phalanx1 keeping step to the music with that marvellous accuracy that everywhere indicates the ,polynesian sensitiveness to time in sound4 ,they scarcely advanced1 merely moving in place1 first upon one foot1 then upon another1 until some change in the music started them off briskly toward the other end of the arena4 ,the big yellow masses of their hair stood out like grenadiers' caps1 and around their heads4 ,dragging to the ground almost1 were long veils or strips of white tappa1 looking like bridal veils4 ,white flowers were fastened in the hair2 great armlets of leaves about the upper arms2 collars of beads and hanging circles of breastplate1 with great titis 7,samoan name for the ornamental ,illustration3 ,,mekke-,,mekke4 ,a ,,story ,,dance4 ,,the ,,musicians ,,at ,,reva1 ,,fiji girdle7 of white and green1 stuck out or swung about them4 ,they wore usually dark black waist hangings like the black fao mats of ,samoa2 though here and there black tappa served for the drapery1 and was gathered about their waists in enormous folds3 in general a great 8symphony of black and white10 with strong accents here and there of faces1 necks and hands painted with velvety black of soot4 ,when they had marched to the other end of the open space they began their dances1 keeping time with extreme care1 but making motions of attack and defence all together4 ,then breaking their order1 the centre took one line of attitudes and movements1 and the flanks another1 even to crouching low down and waiting while the centre advanced and came back4 ,it was a splendid1 warlike1 barbarous spectacle1 our first sight of a complete military dance2 for the ,samoan that we had seen was more the representation of a real advance of barbarian warriors4 ,to this succeeded other dances of like kind1 as our first dancers belonging to the place1 were succeeded by others belonging to adjacent districts4 ,the leader of the first corps came up to us1 threw down his club before the ,governor1 and sat down beside us panting and perspiring4 ,he was a big handsome man1 redolent with cocoanut oil1 the son of one of the chiefs1 and had once on a time been at school in ,sydney1 where he had learned other weaknesses besides those that come from education4 ,next to him in front of us1 as usual1 sat the ,governor's 8herald0 7native name ,matafamea7 representative of an office hereditary in certain families2 and took charge of the applause1 calling aloud 8,vinaka60 which means good2 to which the ,governor sometimes added1 8,vinaka sala10 very good4 ,and it was very good4 ,not only did we have club dances1 but also dances with spears1 extremely long spears1 made to shake and tremble like the 8long shadow casting spear0 of the ,iliads2 while sometimes the warriors stood all motionless1 crouched or poised1 or leaning with the other arm upon their clubs4 ,finally the last cohort came down in a mass1 the front rank waving great fans and bending to the right and left1 while the main body of the men brandished their spears above them4 ,to add to the confusion of sight of the looker-on many had their faces painted not only in black but in vivid red1 so that one would feel that a certain surprise and astonishment might well attend their appearance and attack4 ,things of the kind taken by themselves seem useless1 but seen in real use1 the motives that have brought them about unfold1 and one can see for instance how the painting of the face makes a mask behind which the intentions or purposes lie concealed and in ambush4 ,when all this was over the crowd melted away1 and we walked back to the chief's ,illustration3 ,,the ,,dance ,,of ,,war4 ,,fiji house1 stopping1 some of us1 for a moment at a less important one to see what it was like2 slipping up and down on the polished wood of the drawbridge1 and resting on the raised das at one end1 filled with grass and covered with soft mats1 where the owner slept4 ,behind us on the wall was a lithograph in colour1 framed--the ,madonna of ,raphael's--the good man probably a ,catholic4 ,otherwise less fine1 the house was as the other4 ,some one of the party wasted some time in asking for a dance of the women1 which we did not obtain1 and so we were late on our arrival2 and as we sat down on the mats outside1 near the ,governor and the captain1 we found that the ceremony of presentation of food had gone on for some time1 and that we were only in at the end4 ,but we saw the herald divide it1 somewhat as in ,samoa4 ,it would as we understood1 go back to the village that gave it--the big hog not cooked enough1 and the great basket of taro4 ,we lounged until evening in what we might call the garden1 right upon the river4 ,here and there a few trees growing up against the leafy walls--for their sides were all covered with leaves that melt into the grass thatch above--or standing apart2 below one of them was a large smooth slab of stone1 brought from before an old heathen temple1 to make a pleasant seat4 ,it looked like ,japan1 just such a little place as would have been arranged with infinite art1 with just so many trees1 and with such a stone to appear as if accidental and yet to contradict a little4 ,the river before us was very broad2 on the other side a perpendicular bank not high1 perhaps like ours1 some four or five feet at the most1 covered with the appearance of an uninterrupted mass of trees1 though perhaps at places there were open spots like ours4 ,canoes moved across bringing back visitors2 as the night came on big fish rose out of the water with a splash4 ,there was a long white sunset1 and then we had dinner on the mats1 and after talk and lounging there we walked outside a little and then turned in for sleep on the mats1 under blankets and mosquito nets2 for it was cool1 or felt so1 and yet the mosquito hummed4 ,in the morning ,i wandered out at dawn1 and walked up and down the little space with the ,governor1 who told me humorous stories of wild adventures1 mostly with reporters4 ,the ,governor's conversation is charming1 full of information1 and with a great enjoyment of fun4 ,the few stories he had told us were like little comedies1 and ,i regret that his position and duties1 as they1 increase1 will probably prevent such a man from giving any record of his experiences and his views in the ,south ,seas4 ,as the day came up our party turned out of doors2 attempts at photography were made4 ,some chiefs came up to speak to the ,governor2 one he presented to me1 a cheery old gentleman ,illustration3 ,,joli ,,buti--,,teacher4 ,,fiji of grey beard1 strikingly ,european at first sight1 who laughed at the little joke that we were come to take him to ,america1 like so-and-so who went and never came back4 ,another steam launch drawing less water had come for us to take us to the ,navuini plantation 7sugar7 only some six miles in a straight line from us1 but further with the curving of the rivers4 ,while we were breakfasting cheerfully on the mats it had run aground and would not be off until a change of tide in the afternoon4 ,so that our boats were called1 and stepping down a little copper-lined ship's ladder delicately grafted into the bank1 we were in the boats and had a long hot row to the plantation4 ,there we rested1 going up to a high verandah in one of the residences from which there was a view of the delta of the river1 and we could look toward the gradual passage of the land into hills and then into mountains4 ,i felt too tired to follow through the rows of the plantations interesting as they undoubtedly are1 because ,i have some previous idea of the thing4 ,i should have been more interested if ,i could have seen some of the native sugar plantations which we passed1 the existence of which at all seems to me a remarkable thing3 the first sign so far in the ,south ,seas of any work not absolutely easy1 undertaken by natives4 ,one of them was near our point of departure1 and was across the river from the owners or holders2 for as was explained to me1 it was a family1 not an individual1 as you know1 in the idea of society and property that exists here2 in the same way that we have seen elsewhere in the ,south ,seas4 ,there is the family1 in so far different from our communistic ideas2 then the families that are sprung from a common traceable near root1 over them1 headed by the heads of families1 the greater chief representing the ensemble of families of like origin or who have control2 and so on to the highest4 ,as connected with this1 the ,governor was illustrating the interdependence in some such way2 putting ourselves back to an indefinite time1 an arbitrary moment when things were unchanged2 let us suppose that the head of a village is moved by complaints that some one of his own little association of families has misbehaved4 ,there is no trouble in such a case2 all authority is given1 and proper punishment meted out directly1 if such be necessary4 ,but let us suppose that it is some fellow of a neighbouring village who has killed the straying pigs of our village1 or who hangs too closely about some girl of ours--why our chief1 however disposed to break his head1 must wait to see that such a disposal of the outside offender would not displease the chief who had equal authority over both places4 ,so that he takes a present1 the famous whale's tooth1 such as that we saw offered yesterday to the ,governor1 at the beginning of all conversation2 and presenting it1 he makes a story of the case1 and of what he himself would like to do about it4 ,if the present is rejected1 the matter is left as it was4 ,but it may be that it is accepted1 and the superior chief may approve and not interfere1 or he may approve 7annuit71 and yet protect the offenders indirectly1 so that they should not be hurt--nay1 so that they might come off victorious and the attacker be humbled and diminished4 ,or he might say3 8,the case is grave2 ,i understand what you want2 let me think a little over it20 then he himself approach the still higher ruler and consult him4 ,so that the responsibility was shifted away as far as convenient4 ,,the ,,story ,,of ,,the ,,fish-,,hook ,,war ,but this fairly is politics1 and we were talking of property1 and perhaps it is better to give you an ancient anecdote that was told at breakfast with great vivacity by ,sir ,john4 ,it is the story of the famous 8,fish-hook ,war40 ,let us suppose three brothers or relatives1 each with a district1 or village perhaps1 under him--people well-to-do1 with property and women4 ,let us label them--7for their names would only trouble us and entangle me7--,a41 ,b41 ,c4 ,now somehow or other a story got out that ,a4 had become possessed1 in some way or other1 of a wonderful fish-hook1 something quite extraordinary in every way and 8hors ligne40 ,exactly how it was ,i don't know1 but ,b4 felt that if it were so good he should like to have it himself1 and most naturally1 according to the communistic ideas of the ,south ,seas1 he went over to ,a4 and asked him to give him his fish-hook4 ,a4 thought awhile1 and then answered that he would be most happy 7,south ,sea way71 but that unfortunately he had only a little while ago 7,south ,sea way71 given it to ,d4 or ,e4 or ,f4 as the case may be4 ,now ,b4 knew that this was a lie1 but ,i suppose he smiled politely1 or in a sickly way1 and went off wroth at heart4 ,some time after1 whether taking a whale's tooth or not1 ,i don't know1 for ,i am not yet posted in the use of the implement1 ,a4 called on ,c4 and said to him3 8,i don't like the way followed by our brother ,b4 in his behaviour to us4 ,he has been persecuting me about a fish-hook1 that he might have left alone1 and he seems to wish to grasp everything4 ,i think that we ought to give him a thrashing40 ,c4 agreed3 they notified ,b4 that on such a day1 say ,thursday next1 they would proceed to attack him1 kill his pigs1 ravish his women1 burn his houses1 and generally make an end of him2 and that he had better put up his war palings at once4 ,of course1 ,south ,sea way1 he was to be informed of the hour and place of the duel4 ,b4 did so1 but he was thrashed1 his houses were burned1 his pigs killed and eaten1 his women ravished2 and he himself had to take to the wild bush1 where for a couple of years he remained4 ,then the others thought that after all he was a brother1 and had been punished enough1 and they called him back and helped him to rebuild his houses and started him in life again4 ,again1 ,south ,sea way1 all the property they had was in common and disaster to one was disaster to all4 ,but ,b4 after a little while went to ,a4 and said to him3 8,of course you might take offence at my having asked you for your fish-hook4 ,it is not for me to decide now1 and all that is over2 but ,i don't see that ,c4 should have behaved as he did4 ,he had no complaint against me1 and ,i think he behaved meanly4 ,now he is lording it all along4 ,why not do to him as you did to me80 8,all right10 said ,a4 ,so again ,a4 and ,b4 notified ,c4 that his pigs should be attacked1 his houses burned1 his women ravished1 etc41 etc41 and to get his palisade ready for an attack at an appointed time4 ,sure enough1 down they came on him1 and chased him out and drove him into the bush4 ,but after a few months they repented and remembered his brotherhood1 and recalling him rebuilt his houses and set him up again in business4 ,and things went smoothly for a time1 but ,c4 one day thought it over1 and going to ,b4 unbosomed himself thus3 8,it is all right that you should have walked into me1 but what had ,i done to ,a48 ,nothing whatever4 ,he might have had a grudge against you who troubled him about the possession of the fish-hook1 but what could he have against one who had helped him always4 ,he is grown over-proud and powerful4 ,why should we not bring him to a reasonable level1 and perhaps after all get the fish-hook80 ,so they agreed and sent him the usual summons to prepare for devastation2 but also let him know that if he would merely get out in time after putting up his war fence1 and make no resistance1 no further harm would be done him than to kill his pigs and burn down his houses2 but that he must take absolutely nothing away2 all must remain just as it was4 ,so ,a4 consented1 and went into the bush1 and the other two came down and made devastation4 ,and in a few days they called ,a4 back and said to him3 8,well1 now things are fairly square1 we may allow you to come back2 and we will help you to rebuild your houses4 ,we can't give you back your pigs1 they are eaten--but1 oh1 where is your fish-hook80 ,then ,a4 became shamefaced and said to them3 8,it is too bad1 but the fact is there never was any fish-hook4 ,i was drunk one day1 and in a boasting fit ,i invented the owning of a wonderful fish-hook4 ,that is all there is to it40 ,so that1 made wiser by fate1 they remembered their general brotherhood1 and put up with the nonexistence of the unfortunate fish-hook4 ,this is a good story of ,polynesian war1 such as seemed to keep all these good people going1 gave them excitement1 work to do1 provided against unnecessary increase1 and yet seems rather to have kept up their numbers1 now diminishing apparently everywhere in all islands4 ,it may be that when1 as in ,tahiti1 there may come up the possibility of lawsuits over land claims1 the fierce activity of war shall be transferred to the pursuit of rights in courts1 as the bloodthirstiness of the ,norseman still persists in the 8process ifs0 ,norman-,french4 ,but here they have not yet come to that4 ,no arbitrary professional and scientific ideas1 such as aid the ,french1 have yet taken hold4 ,the poor ,tahitian1 elevated to the dignity of being the equal of a ,frenchman1 pays for it the penalty of having to record his titles to land by methods new to him4 ,these titles1 if not claimed within some ,european space of time1 are to lapse1 so that he rushes now into court1 with a terrible array of verbal testimony1 claiming all he possibly can1 and sure to be contradicted or to find his land counter-claimed by some neighbour1 jealous of letting any dormant right1 however doubtful1 pass away forever4 ,poor ,pomar ,v1 the late king who abdicated in favour of the ,french1 as ,thakombau did here1 in favour of the ,english1 was claiming 7as ,i may have told you7 when we were there1 in ,tahiti1 two months ago1 all sorts of land presented officially to his first ancestors and ancestress1 as great chief1 or as what we now call king2 somewhat as ,adams and ,i were placed in possession of our little district so many fathoms long4 ,against him the battle may not be difficult2 as he has resigned his kingship1 the titles go back to the first owners1 who gave it to a ruler1 not to a person4 ,but meanwhile in the court records and notices of trials his name is scattered upon every page4 ,here things have not yet come to that4 ,old ideas that are inherent in the ,polynesian way of thinking are not roughly put aside2 and ,i must say that ,i personally have a sense of coming to a place where my mind does not go through the rack of seeing misapplied laws and rules break up everything1 for the risk of possibly doing some good1 with the certainty of much harm4 ,for1 after all1 what are titles of ownership8 ,there is the excellent story of the ,new ,zealand chief1 who pressed with impatience to start his claim and make it short1 answered promptly1 8,i eat the former owner0--a brief summary of many ownerships everywhere4 ,or of the others who proved their claim to land by showing that from far back they hunted rats there4 7,you will remember that in ,samoa rat-hunting was a dignified and 8chiefy0 sport47 ,the lali1 the heathen war drum that at the ,governor's house calls us to our meals1 has a story about it in this line of thought3 ,years back ,sir ,john ascended the highest peak in ,fiji1 some five thousand feet or more high4 ,and having toiled up and being enveloped in cloud and mist1 instead of taking refuge in caves1 as did his companions1 he sat down upon a little hillock1 over which was spread his waterproof1 and waited for the sunlight that was to show the land below through the rifts in the clouds4 ,some time afterward one of the magistrates had come to ask about the ownership of one side of the mountain1 and was assured by the men of--such and such a place1 that it was theirs1 a claim contradicted by those on the other side4 ,but the first party insisted1 saying1 8,years ago our people buried their war drum on top of the mountain4 ,there it is yet40 ,and true enough1 though the spokesman had not been there since childhood1 the little mound or hillock was caused by the burial of the drum4 ,so that this piece of evidence was duly recorded by being sent to the ,governor2 and the evidence is daily produced for us with the beating of it to call to meals4 ,i have wandered far away from our course upon the river ,rewa4 ,there is nothing more to it2 we had a pleasant time4 ,there were several officers of the ,cordelia along with us4 ,they had been in ,samoa and knew our good friends of ,apia2 ,seumanu and ,faatulia and the girls1 and old ,tofae1 and they agreed with us in liking them4 ,they were in for photography also1 at least the captain2 and generally ,i enjoyed the pleasure that ,i have often had in meeting ,britishers4 ,the captain was full of things he had seen and been amused by4 ,the ship had just returned from ,tonga1 where it had taken ,sir ,john1 and ,i was told about details connected with church life there3 the most important feature in many islands1 that makes1 for instance1 ,raiatea and ,huahaine and ,bora-,bora1 our neighbour islands of ,tahiti1 curious survivals of an arbitrary code of behaviour4 ,there are too many to repeat2 and all that ,i have is disjointed1 but you know the fancy ,i have for believing that a few anecdotes help to give an explanation--and you would tire less of them than of my own disquisitions4 ,whether it be so now or not ,i don't know1 but formerly the great church in ,tonga at ,nukalofa 7,i suppose7 was so ordered as to promote the cause of ,european dress and also of ,european trade4 ,the different doors gave access to people according to their costumes4 ,consequently distinct places were given to those who owned hats and who wore them over shirts and trousers4 ,by another door1 to other seats1 entered the hatless owners of shirts and trousers4 ,and lastly1 the lowest place of all and separate entrance was for those who even with shirts wore only the lava-lava4 ,in contravention of all this1 the ,governor1 our ,sir ,john1 and the ,english officers accompanying him on some hot ,sunday1 turned up coatless1 with only shirts and trousers1 and ,i hope restored the native mind to a healthier turn4 ,illustration3 ,,tonga ,,girl ,,with ,,fan ,some way back the natives contributed largely to donations for the missionary society1 and ,i have heard that as much as #cj1jjj has been sent repeatedly away from this little island and its small population4 ,the ,polynesian1 in this1 like every one else at bottom is on the surface also a vain creature1 incited to display and show off2 which perhaps explains a great many of his apparent atrocities1 perhaps even a good deal of his cannibalism4 ,so that these people have been spurred into giving at church as a special mode of distinction4 ,again ,i am reminded by my conscience that ,i have heard of such things amongst us4 ,but ,i must go on with them3 giving1 as a mode of generosity1 has been prevalent among them1 fostered by everything that we can think of--and especially by the fact that a chief1 as head of a community1 is nothing but a conduit for property4 ,some may stick if the conduit is very rough1 but to give and give much and all has seemed to me from my first days a ,polynesian brand4 ,was ,i not telling you last month1 or some way back in those lovely days of laziness in ,tahiti1 how ,tavi1 the over-generous1 gave his wife to ,terriere of ,papara1 through whom we trace our ,polynesian descent4 ,well1 with giving in such ways goes show2 a silent giver gets no credit and no power thereby2 and most do not like the strict ,gospel teaching1 so what is a man to do who planks out his dollars in church8 ,any man with twenty-five cents in copper gets more out of it than he does--crash go the copper coins into the plate1 while the one silver piece slips in edgeways4 ,to remedy such a state of things1 the proper person brings his money in the largest bulk1 and if perchance during the week had not had the occasion to get change1 he finds in the sacred building itself a corner where his large piece can be exchanged for small2 so that in all the pride of justification1 he can roll the coppers into the plate1 and even perhaps brim it over1 and send the pennies whirling along the floor4 ,with many such comparisons of observations we beguiled the time4 ,the steam launch met us on our return1 and we sailed again over the bar1 just in time for the tide1 for we were bumped in the crossing1 though the launch only draws a foot4 ,and now we are resting again1 enjoying the delightful coolness2 for though the thermometer does not quite bear me out at times1 it has been cool all the time1 except of course when one is in the sun4 ,but the thermometer has gone down to #ff at night1 and keeps up pretty steadily to a range between #gj and #gf2 and though ,i have suffered from sciatica on board ship1 ,i am getting over it4 ,in this civilized life we are looking forward to a trip1 at the end of this week1 into the mountains1 accompanying the ,governor1 who is going to 8prospect0 for the site of a sanitarium high up4 ,strange to say1 no one seems to think of it in the other places we have seen4 ,how easy it would be in ,tahiti1 for instance1 to go for a change up to some of the great heights2 and such openings into inland places makes things generally quieter and more orderly4 ,the thing is vague in my mind1 only ,i fear that we shall be several weeks in carrying it out1 and certainly it will be a rough undertaking4 ,then too1 how shall we manage to be just in time for the steamer to ,sydney1 and then how will the arrival of that steamer dovetail with the departure of the steamer that is to take us to ,singapore8 ,but to quote from a letter of ,king ,george of ,tonga to ,sir ,john1 worth citing because it is a type of the semi-religious phraseology we have seen all through the ,pacific1 bestowed upon us or upon others3 8,when the first man fell from the former state of good he received from ,god1 there came upon our hearts pain and doubtings and strife and divisions among ourselves1 in regard to unforseen things that may happen in the future4 ,but it is with ,god alone to restore happiness40 ,george ,tubou's words convey everything necessary1 and ,i shall report to you when things have been shaped4 ,meanwhile 8,salaam10 as the little ,indian boys said to me at the sugar plantation--8,salaam1 ,sahib10 the first sounds that indicate that we are about turning toward home1 and that ,india is the next stage4 ,,an ,,expedition ,,into ,,the ,,mountains ,,of ,,viti ,,levu ,vunidawa1 ,viti ,levu4 ,sunday1 ,june #bg1 #ahia4 ,we reached ,viria on our first evening out1 having made the journey in boats as far as the sugar mill of ,namosi1 drawn along smoothly1 as if on skates1 by a little steam launch1 upon which was also part of our contingent2 for even at the beginning we were many3 the ,governor and his secretary1 ,mr4 ,spence1 and ,mr4 ,berry1 for surveying and the ,a4 ,n4 ,c4 7armed native constabulary71 and the ,governor's servants1 and ,awoki1 and the ,governor's herald the ,mata ,ni ,fenua 7eyes of the land71 and certain others1 and soon ,mr4 ,carew the magistrate on the ,rewa1 and so on4 ,it was the same river scenery1 mangrove swamps washed by the river1 and by the tide which influences the stream for some forty miles or more--steep banks cut by the water to an edge1 and covered with grass1 sugar-cane1 banana--occasional but rarer--cocoanuts and so on4 ,later on as we came nearer to the end of the day's trip1 as the banks grew higher and more hillocky1 they became more and more cut up by ravinings and small cuttings which were sometimes wet1 with rivulets or bayous1 sometimes dry1 and often so close and narrow as to make but little clefts in the stone and earth4 ,across them1 over them2 rounding their edges or filling them1 grew the trees1 sometimes small1 sometimes of great height4 ,all this repeated everywhere made a continuous set of little pictures of broken lights and forms--through all the course of the river4 ,in a small way nothing could be more picturesque4 ,at places where the bank had sloped and made some little flats1 men and women were collected1 bathing or washing clothes3 many of them ,east ,indians1 women clothed in the flowing garments1 of bright or 8entire0 colours looking in their favourite yellow1 like great birds2 occasionally running along the shore beach1 their drapery swelling behind them1 impeding and showing the motion of the limbs1 and recalling the correctness of the drawings and paintings of ,delacroix1 who alone1 so far1 had made the ,oriental that he saw1 look like anything else than a geographical or artistic curiosity4 ,when ,i think that a few weeks sufficed to store his mind with all that he had done or implied in this way1 ,i return to my admiration for his work1 which sometimes for a man of the eighties of this century looks too much like the doings of a man of the thirties4 ,once along a high bank near some station 7government station71 a row of constabulary stood up and then sat down in a row1 respectfully on a platform of the bank1 to do honour to the ,kovana--the ,governor4 ,late in the afternoon we turned at one of the confluents and reached our destination for the night4 ,a high sandy beach all broken over with footsteps1 looking like a ,nile embankment--many natives sitting about on it--then disembarkment and a little walk through some sugar-cane and banana1 on a little raised road1 and we came to a native town or village1 inside of a deep ditch of circumvallation1 filled with trees1 and inside of a big waste space1 the house we were to occupy1 alongside of a few others4 ,the same method of entrance--the trunk of a tree made into a plank with the natural curve1 with notches and holes occasionally in the wood1 as the tree has grown4 ,this wooden path led quite high up1 and some eight feet or so to the base running around the house--the yavu or permanent base1 which is allowed to remain when the house is dismantled by time or by man4 ,the house1 the usual one with the walls covered with leaves4 ,in one place a ti branch in full bloom of yellow-red1 projecting from its side as if it grew there 7a decoration for our coming74 ,the doorposts of trunk of tree-fern1 all dark grey and corrugated1 looking like stone2 and above the doors a false lintel1 engaged in the wall and smaller than the door1 looking like a round bulging stone 7as if so cut by a pre-,romanseque architect72 the cutting of the chisel admirably indicated1 but in reality nothing but a bunch of grey dried leaves1 so brushed together that they suggested the grain of stone under the chisel4 ,in front of the door1 or rather at its edges1 engaged in the platform1 shells disposed in a pattern1 and the same disposed in a half circle in front of the stairway plank deeply sunk in the earth1 so that only their ridges were visible4 ,all this exquisite good taste in spite of the repeated assertion1 which may be true1 that these good people are not at all sensitive to sthetic feelings4 ,the interior as usual3 yellow cane in patterns on the walls1 and dark columns of tree-fern1 and rafters covered with sennit4 ,soft mats on the floor were made softer with leaves thickly strewn under them4 ,here there was a presentation of whale's teeth1 of kava and of food2 and here the ,governor listened to reports of the place1 and talked to the mbulis 7prounounced bulis7 7local chiefs of a certain degree71 and later listened to some petitioner of a neighbouring place1 who in the twilight had come to him while standing out in the open2 and had squatted down and mumbled and whispered1 and offered some written petition4 ,then we ate and slept and in the morning1 walked along the outside upper base1 and looked upon the hazy scene--then bathed in the river while the mist still floated above the tallest trees4 ,when the sun was well up our party divided1 three of us going by canoe1 and the ,governor and officials and retinue walking or riding on4 ,here then we parted1 ,a4 ,t4 taking the canoe1 while the ,governor and the magistrates went on foot and horse by land1 to ,vunidawa4 ,there was a little thatched awning upon the canoe's deck1 large enough for three to manage to stretch under4 ,six men1 three at each end1 poled or paddled in the canoe as the water was deep or shallow2 while one man1 in this case ,i think a sergeant of the 8armed native constabulary0 7,a4 ,n4 ,c471 stood on the outrigger1 or sat about and took charge4 ,the low roof prevented one's seeing much of the shores1 for to sit up was to have one's view absolutely excluded4 ,but all the more important became the little details of vision1 the beauties of line and colour that one sees everywhere in the movement or the rest of water1 its breaks upon shore or upon rocks1 the reflections that it carries with it1 and the near banks or little distant escapes of vision1 all framed within the cane posts of the sun shelter4 ,it was all much the same as the day before1 but the shores became bolder1 the breaks greater4 ,rapids rushed around us1 and our men poled hard against the force of the water4 ,we passed or were left behind by the other boats carrying the enormous luggage and accumulation of provisions for such a party4 ,the profiles of the men in the other boats stood up in contradictory curves and lines against the shadows and fights of the distance1 or the darkness and glistening of the water4 ,they shouted and called and got all the fun and excitement out of the hard work that could be had4 ,as the slopes increased and the river-bed showed more gravel and boulders in large patches1 the talk and chatter of the men reminded me of former days in ,japan1 up in the high lands and by the rivers that run there on great gravel beds4 ,at every step this impression of reminiscence increases and must increase1 as it occurred to me on the very first morning of arrival1 upon seeing the many small hills and mounds fringed with trees1 behind which came down great slopes of distance2 even an occasional waterfall was there to remind me4 ,the heat was great1 the silence also1 even though the men shouted2 for occasionally we heard nothing but the movement of the poles and the ripple of the water4 ,a hawk would flutter off from some tree4 ,dragon-flies lighted on the deck or upon one's outstretched legs4 ,a spider1 folding up like a pair of scissors1 so as to look all long instead of circular1 began to build its web1 for there were flies2 and all little things became of interest by the time we had reached our first halt4 ,we were helped up some very high banks of red clay1 partly covered with green bushes and trees1 and found ourselves at the entrance of a pretty little place1 with plants and trees neatly set out1 for colour spots4 ,we lunched most comfortably in a native house4 ,with this break we began again our river course1 the rapids increasing1 and the difference between the shoal water and the pools becoming more evident4 ,occasionally a large spot of river greened or darkened into what was depth4 ,in such we longed to bathe1 when the moment of halting would arrive1 or before departure1 but in none such of these did we swim4 ,indeed1 little by little1 one felt the influence of the assurance that sharks visited these deep holes1 and that to some fifty miles or more up these rivers there was a possible danger4 ,the shape of the river banks1 the marks on the shore1 the thickness of the dry parts of the river1 the size of its boulders and pebbles1 the manner in which the tongues of conglomerate that ran along with the river-bank were cut down1 the sudden cuttings and hollows and ravines of the bank1 all showed what a mass of water1 in wet seasons and years1 must pour down these rivers4 ,then when the tides are high and the waters give access1 great sharks come up and bide their time in the deep pools4 ,no year passes but that some natives are attacked4 ,here then the smaller ones remain when the river runs lower1 and change their colour and become fresh-water sharks1 and sometimes when small are harmless2 but the impression of danger is there4 ,i am told that they are seen far up1 and that even as far as we shall get on ,monday night1 they are occasional4 ,we landed in the afternoon at ,vunidawa1 some thirteen miles by land from our morning's stay2 again coming up high red clay banks1 of a beautiful slope most charmingly set out and arranged1 upon which stands the 8station40 ,i was told that the arrangement of cuts and breaks and ditches was all modern or recent1 but that at one place there were the remains of the old cut or moat on the upper hillside4 ,but the place had a fortified look--one looked down from high banks 7below and around which ran paths7 upon a hollow centre in which stood native houses and great trees4 ,in the distance1 mountains across the river2 toward the west1 one great streaked mass1 with an outline vaguely like the ,aorai of ,tahiti1 the smaller ridges in front of it showing high precipices that looked violet in the dawn1 with occasional shiny white spots2 all else with a faint haze of green1 except where far off1 further to the west1 a pointed peak looked blue4 ,along the bight of the curved river a line of cocoanuts stood near the high banks4 ,further on one could discern to-morrow's road1 that disappeared behind a turn of the river1 and up the edges of the intermediate hills in the distance yellow patches and markings modelled the slopes of the first uplands4 ,sunday4 ,all next day we rested4 ,the sitting-room of the pretty native house was decorated with native tappa 7masi7 of many patterns4 ,books and magazines were upon the tables and shelves of cane4 ,the ,governor and the resident magistrate1 ,mr4 ,joski1 whose house this was1 received reports from the mbulis 7chiefs7 of the neighbourhood1 while sitting out in the evening on the green slope of the garden4 ,we left again ,monday morning for the first beginnings of mountain country and more inland manners4 ,our party again divided4 ,atamo and myself and the momentarily ill ,awoki took to the water and again went up stream4 ,the weather was exquisite1 the draught of the river just cooled the heat4 ,constant animation and struggle on the part of the boatmen for the rapids became more and more frequent4 ,half the time1 with the strength of the current and the shallowness of the water1 four of the six men plunged in and pulled and tugged at the boat1 pulling it through the boiling water1 lifting their legs high1 one after another for stepping over the boulders1 every muscle strained with effort1 the poles bending against the rocky bottom4 ,occasionally the man who stood at bow or stern1 upon the little vantage nook of the thickness of the canoe1 would be slung off by a swerving of the current1 and his own stretching far away to the side1 and would retain some place from which he could join us4 ,the other boats passed us or were left behind4 ,we saw them far off on the slopes of the torrents1 lifting shining poles against the shadow of the banks4 ,sometimes the water swept over and our own little planking was wet with it4 ,as the rapids increased so did the spread of the stones and boulders of the remainder of the river4 ,we rested once for midday meal4 ,then in the afternoon we landed and walked a little way along a causeway road to a little village on a bluff1 where the wide river turned4 ,then passing through many houses and turning around a deep moat1 filled with bananas and other greenery1 we came upon the edge of the little hill4 ,here stood a house of a different type1 more like the type of the mountains2 a very high1 dark1 thatched roof1 more than twice the height of the wall together with the stone base1 or mound embedded with stones1 called yavu1 out of it grew bunches of the red ti4 ,this mound embedded with stones is kept and has its name2 the house on top will be built and rebuilt4 ,at one corner a great palm tree rose above the high roof4 ,from the little plateau1 planted with occasional trees and rising steep from the river1 a sloping and curved path led down between water and village1 separated from the latter by the deep moat filled with trees1 and coming at length to sharp earthern steps 7if one can so call anything as rude7 that took us to the river end1 to our bath in shallow water1 the edge of the deep pool under the cliff4 ,far back behind us spread the river-bed with the stream between1 and in the distance behind the hills a line or shoulder of mountain streaked perpendicularly with great shiny patches of rock4 ,in this house we spent the night4 ,it was inside1 like all those we have yet seen1 charmingly finished with patterns of fastening on the reeds of the walls1 and sennit decorations on beams and lintels and posts4 ,a rude representation of a cow or bull had been worked into the roof4 ,the next day we began our walk1 leaving the canoes for good2 and after a few hours over clay ground and some rocky streams1 we came to a wide space of the river2 across which we were carried in rough litters made of bamboo tied together1 then1 walking up a clay bank between trees1 came upon the little village around which the river curves4 ,this was ,navuna4 ,here the view was confined to our huts and those of our neighbours4 ,behind us a plantation of bananas2 visible partly around the corner of a neighbouring house1 a great tree shading the centre of the rara1 the village place1 where in the morning the ,governor and the two magistrates interviewed the representatives of this place and of others4 ,i could make out fairly well that a certain court of reproof was going on2 for all through these places was something which explained itself a little further along4 ,nasogo1 ,july #crd4 ,the midday saw us off from ,navuna1 and through similar scenery to a little village on the edge of a river running far below it4 ,the village is ,navu 7n7 7di ,waiwaivule7 in the district of ,boboutho4 ,now we began to be helped by being carried in the litters provided us by ,mr4 ,joski2 for crossing and recrossing streams1 it was perhaps as easy a way as being carried pick-a-back4 ,but where it was both a triumph and an excitement was when we were lifted up the steep sides of the gorges2 then the looking back or forward1 and seeing below one's feet the toiling carriers of the other litters1 swaying to and fro with their burden2 and behind them again the long file of what was getting to be an enormous retinue4 ,for a background the distant mountains1 or the bottom of the gorge1 black shingle and rushing water1 or shallow pools reflecting the green above4 ,but prettier than all was some passage along the stream2 the men in the water2 the mass of the party sometimes in the water near us1 or disappearing around picturesque frames of corner rocks1 over shingles and boulders2 and reflected all about us the entire picture--the distant mountains and rocks in sun and mist1 the near rocks covered with green1 or with purple and grey of conglomerate2 and the song of the rapids ahead in a black and white streak counting against the trembling green4 ,but when we walked then much did we regret our litters4 ,to the native our good path was for the most part on the dry river-bed1 and lengthily and wearily we picked a precarious footing over innumerable pebbles and stones and boulders2 sometimes thinking that the walk was easier on the big ones1 because one went from one to another2 sometimes on the smaller and more rolling ones1 because one got several under one's slipping foot4 ,but my neighbours always helped me3 sometimes ,lingani1 one of the ,governor's men1 or one of the 8,army10 as we called them 7the armed constabulary71 or some mbuli who accompanied the escort1 or some newly accidental neighbour2 so that all went well enough1 and we reached our night's destination without the sprained ankle that had discomfited ,mr4 ,spence early in the trip4 ,all is a little hazy to me up to where we are now4 ,i remember the look down the ravine and up the other river4 ,i remember that huts began to be more peaked or more like ,illustration3 ,,edge ,,of ,,village ,,of ,,nasogo ,,in ,,mountain ,,of ,,the ,,northeast ,,of ,,viti ,,levu1 ,,fiji beehives4 ,i remember one which had been fitted up as a heathen temple or devil house1 and from whose roof many strings hung down--as conductors1 one may say of influences4 ,there had been a basket attached to one of them1 which the ,governor cut down4 ,i remember1 of course1 but one running into the other1 presentations of whales' teeth and food1 and tappa1 and dances 7mekke mekke71 with or without the dancers being wrapped in the enormous folds of cloth1 that afterward were unwound with more or less difficulty1 to be piled up high as a man's height into great masses of presents4 7,and by the by1 though all that is extinct to-day1 some thirty or forty years ago a return to this old manner of making gifts of tappa came near to bringing on a civil war in ,tahiti47 ,the ,tahitian custom referred to came up again some while after ,queen ,pomar 7,aimata7 was on the throne1 her brother ,pomar ,,iii having died quite young1 and leaving her1 who had not been trained entirely by missionaries1 exposed to the passing influences that come up with new conditions4 ,at some time or other she capriciously desired that upon certain occasions she should be received in ,tahiti 7on her arrival1 ,i think1 from ,eimeo--,moorea--but that is unimportant7 in the old way4 ,among other customs would have been that of presenting her with tappas offered by a number of young women1 who1 having danced before her all swathed in this native cloth1 should then gradually be unwound1 and having nothing upon them1 continue the dance to an end4 ,this was part of the thing1 and ,i only remember this detail4 ,it was then that ,tati of ,papara1 the grandfather of our old chiefess1 came to the front1 and in a most remarkable manner1 both by threatening armed opposition1 and by the use of an eloquence worthy of the greatest examples1 broke down the will of the ,queen and the plotting of her then advisers4 ,it is thus greatly to ,tati that peace and the final quiet prevailing of ,christianity was due4 ,as to ,aimata1 or ,queen ,pomar1 that she remained more or less of a pagan at least for a long time1 the fact or report that she destroyed two of her children 7probably base born7 is in the direction of a testimony4 ,of course the meaning of the word ,christian is variable according to time and place and especially according to date1 so that the geographical and historical limit of the meaning should never be insisted upon in too set a manner4 ,the next day's tramp brought us here1 but apart from certain geological facts in which ,adams was enormously interested--for example1 the superposition of the conglomerate upon everything else1 and the finding of shells in the softish rock at this height--all was pretty much the same4 ,our present place is very charming1 reminding me of the last4 ,it is at a corner again1 with the river turning round one side of it1 and the stream up which we came on the other4 ,between them a bluff covered with trees1 the space of the bed of the river mostly filled with boulders and gravel and rocks1 though we roll the rapids1 or slide the quiet waters2 a great rock just facing the village1 as an advance buttress of the mountain behind it1 which melts tier upon tier into an entanglement of foliage2 and the town or village itself1 built on a succession of terraces1 all worked over and planted1 and edged with walls that seem part of the natural structure2 here and there1 even right in the village1 a boulder black or grey1 almost of the colour of the thatch of neighbouring houses1 and protected1 shaded1 encompassed with trees or high decorative plants as they usually are4 ,as always everywhere apparently1 the projection of any tongue of land makes itself into a knife edge2 so that the idea of a ditch or moat would be suggested to the savage engineer by the very make of the land4 ,therefore from each side the slopes go down1 and below you see tops of trees1 banana1 palm or what not1 and tops of huts staged down4#bh ,then where the land rises again on the slopes1 big boulders stand up1 reminding you again of the thatched roofs2 and far away on heights are places where villages stood1 and where some years ago these very savages were attacked and driven off4 ,for all these parts of the country were once a stronghold of the more savage tribes2 if not the more powerful1 who sometimes came down and attacked the lower places4 ,and all through here some of the gentlemen who were with us had gone1 when the time had come to make an end of it1 destroying the towns and reducing the wild people to forced peace4 ,occasionally ,i overheard these reminiscences1 which do not date so many years ago--fifteen or sixteen1 ,i think4 ,the ,governor had headed or accompanied expeditions1 and one or more of our companions had been on such attacks1 after having suffered the loss of a number of relatives and friends4 ,but all that is over now2 only1 as in all mountain countries1 there is a sort of regrowing of that bad seed1 such as we saw in this recurrence of the old devil worship4 ,here we saw of course again more ceremonies and presentations of food1 the latter becoming a serious necessity with the great number of men accompanying us4 ,the ,governor is not only a representative of the ,queen1 he is as such the chief of chiefs1 and most wisely his policy1 whether or not it has been the policy of his predecessors1 has insisted upon this point4 ,every ceremonial of observance1 everything that would belong to the native ruler1 is encouraged and kept up4 ,not only such natural observances must exercise an indefinable prestige on the native mind1 but they also must allow1 in what is a personal government1 the use of an apparatus of control exactly suited to the native mind3 thus any subordinate chief can be reprimanded1 talked to and put in his place in such a way1 that he feels it from ancestral habit2 he can be removed or set aside4 ,a man serving out a sentence can be kept a prisoner behind the paling of a bamboo house that he could break through as easily as he can see through it4 ,with time1 as the natives change1 the laws and ordinances that they have made themselves1 for most things1 that have seemed good to them and which are not contrary to the absolute essentials of ,english law1 have been left1 and will change as they change1 and may fit themselves to an unknown future4 ,this will explain the naturally sensible reason for which the ,governor differed with some of the ,catholic missionaries1 or rather their bishop1 about which things ,i have heard1 if not complainingly1 at least with suggestion of arbitrariness from one or two good old ,samoan priests4 ,for instance1 it is a great chief's privilege and marks him that he should be 8tama'd0 to in passing--that is what marks him1 and establishes his position in the hierarchy of rule4 ,but there is no reason why a bishop should claim it2 even if in old days the confusion with regard to power of sacredness1 of respect1 and worship had always existed here as it has been all through the world4 ,so also the case of the missionaries objecting to the chief receiving the first fruits of the land1 often symbolized nowadays by a mere few pieces of some growth1 because long ago it bore a religious as well as civil meaning4 ,i fear me that our old friends1 the ,jesuits of ,china1 were the only very wise men that served as missionaries1 so that they alone never went by their personal whims or measured matters by their own fast rule4 ,but this is far off from my natural path of mere record of what happens or what ,i see4 ,for some things at least the sketches will help you4 ,i may succeed in making some note of the cheerful clearness of colour and tone all about me1 though of course ,i can only make a choice4 ,if ,i give you the day1 then the veiled charms of morning or of evening1 the enveloping of distances in misty colour1 must remain unattempted of record4 ,or if ,i try the haze of the beginning or end of day1 then ,i shall not have anything for you of the lightness and gayety of the brighter hours4 ,but the sketches will give you the shape of the houses4 ,you will sympathize with the inconvenience of getting in or out1 in the dark or wet weather1 excellent as it must have been as a device for protection against too sudden intrusion of doubtful friends4 ,we wait one whole day3 then we enter the mountains for good1 and pass over them to make our way to the coast which will be a matter of four days or so4 ,it may be warmer higher up1 as there may be more cloud2 so far it has been cool at night1 the thermometer going down as low as #ef4 ,in ,camp in the ,bush4 ,saturday night1 ,july #dth4 ,we left ,nasogo 7pronounced ,nasongo7 early this morning in the mist2 going down into the river-bed1 among the boulders1 and crossing the stream several times3 the same river that rushed down around the little point or promontory of ,nasombo--a streak of black or blue or green or white1 among the black stones spread out between the rocky bluffs4 ,then we attacked the mountain and the forest--stumbling and slipping over rocks and moss1 and matted tree roots4 ,the path had been somewhat cleared for us here and there1 but it was hard travelling through the wildwood2 all damp above and below with the continuous moisture4 ,in this desert of leaves and tree trunks1 the passages of former torrents served for paths4 ,over us were quite high tall trees1 but between their upper branches and the mossy wet earth spread a broken canopy of tall ferns1 and lianas and the branches of smaller trees and plants4 ,here and there a great fern connected with the tree fern1 but unlike it1 spread or lifted long fronds like canes some twenty feet in length4 ,upon every tree hung innumerable mosses and parasites4 ,below1 all over1 a tangle of ferns2 beautiful as ferns are1 though you know that ,i care little for them2 ,i am even so unworthy1 that the prospects of rare orchids does not stir my blood2 ,i would give them all for roses1 violets or for apple trees or the cherry4 ,i am essentially and absolutely ,european in these things1 and retreat behind my rights as an artist to have preferences and keep to my instincts4 ,but for you who love such things1 ,i can say that there were many rare plants2 a creeping lily1 for instance1 and innumerable ferns4 ,the fatigue of the ascent became greater3 we halted at noon on a little open space above a high precipice1 from which we could look back at the whole course of the river sunk far into the mountains and curving in the far distance around the amphitheatre1 stands on its little bluff the village of ,nasogo which we had left in the morning some four hours before4 ,beyond it the river ran1 a black thread in the dark grey shingle1 below the big bluff1 and around the little promontory by which we had bathed for two days4 ,then we had lunch and ,sir ,john on this ,fourth of ,july proposed the health of the ,president--and drank to that of ,mr4 ,harrison4 ,then the 8,armed ,native ,constabulary0 gave a salute of six guns which echoed far away down the valley and into the grass country that we hope to reach to-morrow perhaps4 ,no doubt there will be stories afloat that we have been attacked4 ,we were then some #b1cjj feet up--the thermometer indicated #fb4 ,later1 as ,i was very tired1 ,i was carried in the rough palanquin of boughs down the steep hills--the path so narrow that much ingenuity and noise and discussion was expended by my carriers to pass through the trees3 fortunately the conveyance was elastic and could be sloped any way4 ,in fact at times ,i stood up or sloped back so as to have to catch on1 but ,i fell asleep and the men carefully moved along the hanging branches and lianas so that they should not strike me4 ,almost everything that came down merely hung in an elastic way4 ,rarely did a big tree stretch over the path4 ,the last thing that ,i saw before closing my eyes was the file of our party beneath me3 ,their heads just visible between my feet2 the 8,native ,constabulary0 in their uniform of bushy yellow hair1 and blue shirts1 and red sulus worn like sashes4 ,the little ,british flag had been stowed away to prevent it striking1 and ,i missed its flutter or dazzle in the green4 ,one of my big black attendants was hanging upon a small sapling dragging it down from the path and dropping far below afterward4 ,the noise of the axes of the scouts sounded in advance and started the parrots cawing in response2 the sun broke upon us and so ,i fell asleep in the more grateful warmth4 ,we reached the place chosen for camping in the early afternoon after another couple of hours' march4 ,our halt was upon a little bluff right on the line of march--where trees had been cut down1 and huts and sheds built for us1 and where already many of our people were resting4 ,here had come the women sent in the morning by the other road1 if one can call it so--the bed of the stream4 ,they were to carry food for our people--for we had by this time some two hundred men along--many really of use1 carrying boxes and trunks and provisions1 all distributed1 so that every little while ,i could notice in the long procession1 the man with the frying pan--the man with the governor's chair and so forth4 ,but there were also amateurs who carried a club1 or a little packet of food done up in a leaf1 or an odd umbrella for one of us--or like the last page in the 8,chanson de ,malbrouck10 8,et l'autre ne portait rien40 ,some were so called prisoners--viz41 men condemned to labour for a time--and ,i was much amused at the story of three of them who were encamped in a long shed alongside of the magistrate 7,mr4 ,carew7 who had brought them as servants4 ,they were all three in it owing to the eternal cause--8la femme0--who in ,fiji seems to be 8teterrima causa04 ,in fact1 as there are not women enough to go around1 it was not astonishing to hear that one great influence of the recent heathen revival in this wild region of cannibals was the hope of the young men1 that if there were rows and trouble1 some stray women might fall to their share4 ,this evening ,i wandered out along the sheds and saw a good many--not more agreeable to look at than those ,i had seen before and certainly far uglier than the average ugly men4 ,one youngster1 another 8prisoner0 was preparing to oil himself1 surrounded by a little group of female admirers1 reversing apparently the fact of there being few women for the men4 ,we warmed ourselves at the fires1 for1 though the temperature was about the same1 all was wet and damp1 the firewood all covered with green moss4 ,our little hut was a fairly good one1 made of wild banana1 and the interstices filled up1 or rather covered up with the great leaves of the wild ginger4 ,july #eth4 ,the night was rainy and all was damp in the morning1 when after prayers we started again into the wet woods4 ,the cry of the parrots like a wild flapping of voices had been the first sound of early dawn4 ,then the camp had begun to move with chattering and laughter2 people filed along all the morning4 ,when our time came1 ,i had again the use of the loose palanquin in which ,i was taken for the first two miles down the deep side of the mountain4 ,it was interesting to look up at the trees above1 and to notice how much more of the vegetation grew in the air above than in the earth below4 ,every tree was covered with plants1 mosses1 creepers2 the vines and lianas that hung about were themselves covered with smaller growths4 ,perpendiculars of gigantic vines hung1 though they looked as if they held themselves up1 but the least pushing of our party would send great spaces of green trembling far off4 ,the branches that were in my way were loose and swinging1 and rarely did we meet so low down the branches of a solid tree4 ,high up through the great loops and festoons and upright stretches of the creepers1 or here and there the great leaves of the wild ginger1 the light was delicately stencilled with the pattern of the leaves of the great ferns4 ,but high as everything seemed above head in the trembling wall of green our occasional passing of some mighty trunk of the da kua tree1 whose branches began far up above everything1 made still smaller the caravan passing below4 ,upon the branches and curves of the great trees1 in every nook of protection they could afford1 flourished other small forests of air plants1 ferns and creepers for whose support the great oak-like limbs of this giant of the pines seemed to spread4 ,lifted high in relation to the plunge beneath1 ,i spent half the time in looking at the details of this upper picture1 unseizable otherwise in our rapid marching--but after our rest in mid-journey ,i preferred the tramp1 and walked on with the others1 slipping and sliding up and down1 until we reached camp 7after five hours' walk7 on a little open space4 ,just before this we had passed through a little park-like country all different from the sharp edges1 ascents and descents of our usual travelling--the grass grew high1 trees dotted the swellings here and there1 the sun kept all dry so that it was hard to believe that only a few feet behind lay the eternally wet forest4 ,in the tall grass grew orchids like lilies1 orchids large and small of the fagus variety4 ,butterflies and moths flitted about4 ,the open country smiled after the sadness of the woods4 ,our resting place was not quite so open1 but yet it had a similar appearance4 ,it had evidently once been inhabited--there had been taro patches at one extremity of the open space4 ,here again1 as throughout what we had seen of ,fiji1 the inhabitants had been chased away from their holdings in the perpetual wars4 ,indeed only twelve or fifteen years ago these good people here were cannibals and liable to be eaten if they did not eat others4 ,the advantages of their present lot in this way were referred to in the sermon of the native preacher who had accompanied us1 for this was ,sunday and we had prayers in the morning and service and sermon in the afternoon4 ,of course ,i get all this at second hand1 or even further2 but the good man took also occasion to lecture his travelling flock1 a flock as ,i understand1 not his natural audience1 upon the folly of returning to devil worship1 of which there had been cases in this part of the country1 as ,i have mentioned1 ,i think1 and pointed out to them that it was only an agitation brought up by people who wished to kindle trouble for their peculiar ends1 as1 for instance1 that in the scarcity of women1 some of them might fall to the share of fomenters of trouble1 in case of any upsetting of things1 however momentary--for there are fewer women than men1 as ,i think ,i was telling you4 ,here the desolateness of this open space 7with our pretty and comfortable temporary huts it is true71 but still indicating a once large population1 brought up this question of the relation of the women in connection with agricultural work4 ,they appear 8sat upon0 and not joyful and free as in other islands that we have seen4 ,but of course appearances are only for us2 they are certainly kept away and take a secondary position4 ,but then of course they have to be put away from the mass of our men who are beginning to number heavily4 ,mr4 ,joski says that we are as many as four hundred4 ,these women1 who look so saddened1 did a great deal of the heavy work1 if not all--a matter which seems unnecessary at first1 as the men used to idle and fight1 but perhaps it might be worth while to look at the matter from inside and see how things must have stood in old times4 ,in the morning1 when1 as to-day1 the mist hung over all the valley1 over every point that could be cultivated or was so--when the little village alone above would be lighted up distinctly1 it would have been impossible for the warriors to plunge into these shadows to look to these plantations1 offering themselves as an easy prey to any ambuscade or attacking party4 ,no2 the right thing1 of course1 was to wait until the sun rose far enough4 ,meanwhile skirmishers looked about and travelled through the neighbourhood1 armed against any foe4 ,when they were satisfied that there was no immediate danger the women and children could go out and work in the fields or attend to anything necessary1 while the men were about1 ready to protect them in case of danger2 certainly1 this was to the woman's advantage2 had she1 when travelling or going about1 shared with the man the carrying of weights1 how easily would they both have fallen a prey to the enemy4 ,no1 she would naturally have said1 8you go before with your lance and club and see that the path is clear2 ,i follow with the food40 ,all this is a picture of what was once1 and here no more than elsewhere1 except that here things were upon such a scale that there was no chance for anything but this perpetual war4 ,by such considerations the past of all nations comes back4 ,july #fth4 ,people of the neighbouring district came here to do homage to the governor and present food and they added still more to the number1 filling the neighbouring hollows and moving about in and out of the lovely little brook all shaded by trees1 in which we bathed in cold water1 for the temperature remained pretty steadily the same1 in the neighbourhood of #fc to #fh4 ,in the morning we left ,ngalawana1 and made a short and desperate plunge through the woods in the hollow to the ,n4 ,w4 and up the mountainside4 ,it was raining and had rained1 and anything more slippery than the road over which all these hundred of people had been travelling ,i cannot think of4 ,the steepness was bad enough1 and one could have rolled down if one had a good start2 but some of the paths might have been 8tobogganed0 over4 ,the bare feet of the natives managed it well enough1 though with much slipping4 ,and their ideas of direction of a road are peculiar1 the straighter the better and across country2 so that recently about the very roads that are in consideration1 they say to the governor that of course they will make him his roads to travel on as it suits him1 following easy paths1 but that he must not expect ,illustration3 ,,fijian ,,boy that they will use them4 ,still easy ways are great persuaders1 and notwithstanding this conservatism1 the new roads in other parts are travelled over by the now converted heathen4 ,we arrived at length at a little village on a spur or ridge in a large valley where we are to rest for a few days--the first village1 small as it is1 since ,nasogo4 ,here the governor was waited on by two deputations who presented whales' teeth and food and who were received in the usual way by the ,mata ni ,vanua 7the herald7 and the other attendants with the usual voices of ah6 wui6 wui6--wu--u6 wooe--wooe6 and so forth1 making everything look more and more ,african as we go along2 for all the way through in these mountain tribes1 the negro colour and look1 and woolly hair on head and shoulders and legs1 and ,i am sorry to add the smell1 marks how far we are from our smooth brown ,polynesians4 ,in the evening all was bathed in the afterglow2 pigeons called in the trees2 through the air that seemed thickened with the light-green1 long-tailed parrots sailed slowly1 with an occasional flap of wings4 ,matakula1 ,july #gth4 ,we are resting here to-day2 while the governor explores the neighbourhood for the purposes of his establishment of a sanitarium4 ,we are not so high on the present ridge as he would desire3 only #b1bjj feet while it might be possible to find a plateau or wide ridge as high as #c1jjj4 ,it is much warmer than before and dry at least4 ,the night was cool--as low as #ed4 ,the day is warm4 ,i rose early1 with the cries of the parrots in the wooded hill behind us2 looked at the mist in lakes about us1 out of which stepped the high trees and the mountains in the distance--even the dark conical huts of the little village built along the ridge at whose extreme end we are1 were still wisped with moisture4 ,the sun rose slowly behind the mountains1 bathing everything in mildly pale varieties of wet colour--and all was lit long before the sun came over the hill behind us1 and poured heat and dry light upon the scene4 ,we have been doing nothing3 sitting out under umbrellas--then under a mock grove which the men suddenly made for us1 digging up neighbouring trees and tree ferns and planting them around us in the soft soil4 ,for this they used the digging sticks they had1 merely heavy bits of wood with pointed ends1 in some cases turned up at the sides4 ,we are here in primitive country3 the boys of the village brought the water in bamboo joints this morning3 the huts are of a peculiar hay-mow character--the features of the people1 as ,i said before1 are remarkably 8,african10 though often the colour is of a rich brown--but more usually a ,illustration3 ,,study ,,of ,,huts ,,at ,,end ,,of ,,village4 ,,matakula1 ,,fiji chocolate1 that is negroish1 is the type of colour1 passing to a blackish grey4 ,most of the old people here have been cannibals2 and fifteen years ago all this part was then still dangerous3 on some attacks of theirs1 upon the coast people and upon the whites1 two of whom were eaten1 war was made upon the villagers in this direction2 their villages burned1 and their people driven out and divided among other places4 ,some of the gentlemen with us talked at night of those days and of the fighting4 ,if ,i have more time1 ,i shall try to join together some memoranda or to jot them down as they come up4 ,at night1 when there is no rush for bed1 around a fire in the open the talk goes on1 always interesting and rich in anecdote1 and it is only a pity that we are not more acquainted with the places and people and past story3 it is like looking at an embroidery that has no foundation4 ,but last night a story reminded me of the dream of ,pomar ,vahine1 told us by the old lady1 ,hinarii1 in ,tahiti1 which ,i sent you1 ,i believe4 ,this is not a record of the pagan underworld1 as that was1 but one of a new ,christianity1 and as such makes a curious 8pendant40 ,it is one of the late things reported about1 and a source of comment and of influence4 ,it appears that the wife of one of the principal people of some neighbouring place--perhaps a mbuli1 but ,i was very sleepy when ,i heard it1 and details are misty--appeared to be dead1 was duly watched and prayed over--and then suddenly she called out aloud2 when naturally enough1 the entire assemblage scampered out of the house3 at length the husband took courage and came up near the house1 and heard his wife call out 8,mbuli ,mandrae0 7,i don't remember the right name1 let us call him so7 8is that you80 8,yes0--8,well then ,i must tell you what ,i have seen40 ,so to those who returned1 the good woman said that after death she found herself on the path1 and crying1 to find the road to ,heaven4 ,the road forked3 at the one fork were a number of men dressed in white--at the other a number in black1 and when she expressed a wish to go the road to ,heaven1 the white men passed her on1 tossing her as it were from one to the other1 until she reached a great gate which was made of looking-glass or mirror4 ,there she knocked1 but was told that she must go to one side1 where a scribe asked who she was and what she wanted4 ,she wished to get into ,heaven4 ,so her book was consulted1 and she was asked if she was free from sin4 8,yes0 she replied--8,i have been faithful to my husband40 7,sin with these good people is of one kind47 8,no indeed10 said the judge1 8do you not remember one mid-day when so--and so----0 ,the poor woman admitted her fault and was immediately handed from one white being to another1 until she reached the fatal corner1 when the black-clad people tossed her along as rapidly1 until ,illustration3 ,,ratu ,,mandrae--,,fijian ,,chief she saw a large lake of fire in which were swimming1 people who were shrieking out of the seething liquid1 and then dropped in again with cries of agony--around the pits hung ropes from which many were suspended and dipped into the liquid fire4 8,see10 said some one--8that empty one is yours1 but you have until next ,thursday to return to your home and warn your people of what is in wait for the sinner40 ,so the good woman had returned1 and1 having warned them true to her appointment1 died for good on the ,thursday4 ,the impression has been great4 ,july #hth4 ,in the morning1 after the night-rain and fog1 the hills and the dry country below our little narrow level were grey in mist1 slowly dispelled by the sun that tossed it irregularly into the air4 ,before sunrise1 in the dawn1 the distant mountains1 the higher hilltops and the uppermost trees near us rose from out of a lake of white cloud2 with the coming of the sun1 things became less distinct1 until again1 just as the sun passed over the little rocky mountain behind us1 the fog lay again level in hollows while the last wisps of water blew around us1 dimming this or that hut of the village of which we were part4 ,the parrots chattered again4 ,the doves cooed in the forest a few yards off1 and in the line of the hills behind1 a curious bark in the distance was the voice of another variety of dove4 ,two or three times that morning1 and again during the day1 we heard the gun of our 8hunter40 ,this was to be our last bad day of walking and we made a good show at it4 ,we were to drop some seven hundred feet perhaps a thousand during the day1 down the other side to get toward the sea2 and this in the wet wood1 over clay and roots1 or over wet clay and wet stones when we should be on the open mountainside4 ,the forest was as usual2 occasionally the trunks of large da kua trees stood up like separate columns in the green4 ,in one case this great cylinder was up to some fifty feet all reddish and bright with loss of bark4 ,it had been cut off to this height by the natives1 who use climbing sticks to reach far enough1 in pursuit of an edible grub in the rotten bark4 ,the trail left the woods after a time and descended the mountainside covered with reeds that flowed away from us as we passed4 ,this was the toughest of the path2 slippery with black mud and red clay1 the slippery fallen leaves giving a better hold1 and only seen when trodden into2 this uncertain way down a steep grade upon which occasionally we slide as easier than slipping1 was the most fatiguing pull ,i have ever made4 ,once or twice to my amusement1 the dog of ,mr4 ,carews1 young and inexperienced in such travel1 seated himself ,illustration3 ,,beginning ,,of ,,village--,,dawn4 ,,matakula1 ,,fiji on his hind quarters and pushed himself down on his forepaws4 ,the bare feet of our native companions and their powerful legs carried them along with relative ease1 and when they helped me1 ,i was carried along for a little while at a great rate2 slipping of course1 but balanced and getting on as if on skates4 ,we were often on the edge of the precipice and at length stopped at a little open spot1 where on some black rocks that edge it1 we stopped for a time and looked upon the deep valley1 whose opposite side was different in character from what we had travelled in4 ,we were now on the dry side of the island 7a relative term71 and the look of the opposite mountain was like that of the hills of ,hawaii1 or of ,tahiti2 a curious golden grey-green1 intensified wherever the innumerable hollows gave protection and greater damp to trees and bushes4 ,we were on the slope of a tongue or ridge between two valleys1 but it was only quite late that the clouds lifted enough from the tops of hills to let us catch a view of the valley we were going to1 of the course of the brilliant little river and further off1 of high points of blue that enclosed the sea4 ,meanwhile we halted for lunch at a little level park-like space1 and walked to its edge with the hope that the clouds would break1 but there was nothing but a mass of white vapour in front of us that filled the valleys1 rose above us1 and broke against the crests that we had left1 or beat around1 leaving blue sky above us in deceiving patches4 ,there1 while we rested1 the shikari brought in1 with doves1 two long-tailed parrots1 the one green with green and yellow breast1 the other blue and red and green2 the latter feeds on fruits and is not obnoxious to the natives2 the green is more predaceous of their gardens4 ,this was my first sight of the killed parrots and with the soft grey of the doves they made a brilliant and gay mat upon the green grass4 ,i picked out a few feathers to send to you with this1 wishing that ,i could also send the impression of the scene1 with all these groups of browns and blacks about us1 and the cloudy landscape above4 ,later in the afternoon1 after having waited for a sight of the great view in vain1 we dropped down again through the same terrible woods1 and reached in the early evening the little village of ,waikumbukumbu1 the last of the mountain villages1 whence we should find a made road to the coast4 ,the name ,waikumbukumbu means seething waters1 and describes with exaggeration the look of the little gorge in which its site is chosen4 ,we crossed over rocks the path of the little torrent1 now rolling between rocks1 now filling stone pocket in its bed1 or sleeping quietly between high wooded banks4 ,the houses of the village were partly those of the mountain1 the beehive2 partly those of the coast with long ridge-pole1 and built up on high mounds1 covered with stones or grass4 ,but the openings were the smallest ,i had seen--a big man in some cases might just have fitted in4 ,one little one which ,i have sketched for you1 and which was prettily placed by the side of the ditch1 and with the adornment of a few trees1 was exceedingly small and queerly bulged out in roof at once over its low reed walls4 ,the thatch had been extraordinarily thick1 projecting very far1 and its edges were cut perpendicularly down so as to make a line with the wall1 and you had a proportion of thickness of thatch greater than the wall or the roof4 ,to all those roofings that were old1 and which covered almost the entire houses1 time had given a most delightful texture and tone1 making them look as if covered with a most exquisite grey fur4 ,the thatch of the new buildings was yellow and shaggy1 giving the look entire of the reed3 as the leaves are weathered off1 the fine stem alone remains3 the thing is exquisite as thatching1 having an appearance of extreme finish4 ,the little house or mbure placed thus at the entrance of the village just gave place to two persons within--and ,mr4 ,carew 7magistrate and commissioner1 who knows all about things1 has been here twenty-three years and is a student of words and languages7 says that such would have been a 8devil0 house formerly where the priest or prophet or wise man could reside alone and be applied to4 ,here1 he said1 with the love they have for shutting things up1 he could close his door easily1 and be happy in the sweating heat of the night4 ,the horror of draughts ,i can sympathize with here in the hills where the change from the #hj or #hc of day to the #eb of night makes the motion of air between narrow walls easily felt1 but this night was not cold and with only one door in the house we felt the closeness4 ,outside the temperature was exquisite 7somewhere about #fh71 and the picture of our carriers encamped about the village and fires1 that lit up themselves1 the trees1 the houses1 and the opposite hills by fits and starts1 kept me awake notwithstanding the very fatiguing day4 ,we had been six hours on the walk with the rests included1 and such a walk4 ,we bathed in the hollows on the rocks that night1 and the next lovely morning1 and then began our last march4 ,the mass of the carriers had been dismissed2 and ,i think that we were not more than fifty men or so3 the road1 a very wide one1 began by running up hill as straight as might be1 in ,fijian fashion1 as if to show that the natives were not afraid of mere steepness4 ,the walk was a hard one1 and we had hesitated as to whether the river-bed would not be easier1 as we had been advised2 but ,illustration3 ,,mountain ,,hut ,,or ,,house ,,at ,,waikumbukumbu1 ,,fiji after all a road is a road1 even if it leads up the side of a house1 and by noon1 we had done all the worst of it4 ,a beautiful sight opened before us1 like a reminiscence of ,hawaii3 we had the mountains behind us and on either side1 partly green1 partly rose or golden4 ,as usual1 we were coming down a dividing ridge that ran into the plain2 mountain edges framed the sides1 far off stretched a fairy sea with points that framed it1 and on one side a mountain with high perpendicular cliffs standing up against the distance4 ,everything swam in light2 blue and violet filled the distance2 a big plain1 in which glittered a little water1 spread from the blues to the green near us in gradations such as ,turner loved3 even the very stippling of the innumerable trees1 so many of which were the pandamus 7the lauhala of ,hawaii71 reminded me of him1 as the scene recalled ,hawaiian islands4 ,along the road thin lauhala--the fao of ,samoa1 the fara of ,tahiti--growing every now and then and marking the distance1 and again repeated everywhere in the blazing spread of green and yellow of the plains1 grew not thick and full like those of ,samoa and ,tahiti1 but strangely and queerly with outstretched arms and straggling foliage4 ,we loitered along the road at places where there were big trees and water4 ,halfway1 ,mr4 ,marriott1 the magistrate1 had sent a horse for me to ride1 which convenience allowed me to look further and freely upon the landscape from this height2 but we were some time on the road1 some five hours at least1 though it was but ten miles ,i suppose4 ,vanuakula1 ,july #ajth4 ,we came down in the afternoon to ,vanuakula1 a neat little place reached after a long promenade under the hot sun1 upon the road that ran on a dike in mangrove swamps4 ,there we found news of the little steamer ,clyde1 and saw its ,captain1 ,mr4 ,callaghan1 and were told that at night we should get aboard so as to get off early in the morning for ,ba1 in such manner as to hit the tide without which we could not possibly enter the river to-morrow morning4 ,so we waited for the rise of tide in a little village green square1 and a pretty native house and saw a native dance of armed men 7mekke7 given as a mark of honour along with the food1 and as a manner of presenting tappa of which an enormous quantity was given to the governor4 ,each dancer1 as we had seen before1 carried upon him in long folds yards upon yards of the cloth1 looped like a dress1 caught around his shoulders perhaps1 or only at his waist2 sometimes folded stiffly far over his head1 like the floating folds of drapery upon an archaic bas-relief2 and after the dance he unwinds himself from the enormous entanglement1 and adds it to the pile that our men gather together and fold up4 ,this plunder the governor carries off3 in true native fashion1 he is but a conduit for gifts3 when some chief or persons who have need to fill up gifts or do the proper thing1 think it is time they come and beg for things1 the whales' teeth1 or the tappa 7native cloth7 and receive them4 ,as ,i think ,i said before1 it is pleasant to see the governor keep up strictly every native custom that secures order and belongs properly to their official life4 ,he is very strict about it1 insisting upon every observance that his position requires and carrying all out4 ,while we waited1 looking on at the dance1 or afterward when the ladies of the village came in bringing gifts of food1 having properly asked permission to do so2 two ,samoan women sat beside us4 ,they had come from a neighbouring house to call2 one was younger than the other1 and looked with her hair 8 la ,chinoise10 her slanting eyes1 and flattened nose1 and wide lips1 very much like certain musme of the ,japanese inns and tea houses4 ,this one had been ,samoan way1 married to some more or less white man1 who had left1 and she was now a grass widow4 ,the other was1 8faa ,samoa10 married to some half-breed3 and she of the slanting eyes noticed ,awoki near us1 and somehow or other took him in as a variety of ,samoan4 ,did he come from ,africa or whence8 and ,japan had to be explained4 ,but she said she was anxious to get back home1 and that things here were leanga including the dance which we had been looking at1 and the women and girls who were coming up in a long file much bedizened with velvet1 cotton1 paper cut into strips 7of every shade imaginable71 leaves around the waist1 etc42 from her all dressed all over1 to her who only wore long leafage about her hips4 ,they were prettier than any we had seen3 that is to say they were some of them not unpleasant2 but only a few3 and after all it is only the quite young who suggest anything more delicate than the men4 ,raiwalui1 one of the governor's boys is more feminine looking notwithstanding his strength and height than any ,fijian woman ,i have yet seen4 ,all this is so far as we have seen1 and as ,i told you1 so far the women and children get out of the way1 not only because they always do so more or less1 but also because of our men who have numbered at times several hundred1 so that the women and children are crowded away in corners to leave houses empty for the visitors4 ,but the ,samoans looked like beauties alongside of their sisters of ,fiji here1 and sailed off with much superiority and conscious ease while the ,fijian women had walked off in single file neither looking to right nor left1 but keeping a downward look and following their leader4 ,dinner we had outside on the mats1 and just before the new moon sank we embarked in the dark upon the little river that was to take us to the sea and the steam launch4 ,we were poled along for some few miles near mangrove trees whose roots hung above us1 the wash from our water splashing in among their roots and trunks4 ,occasionally some more solid ground showed a few houses1 or some clump of palms against the sky half clouded4 ,then a long row out to the ship1 all dark1 large masses of dark sea and dark sky1 with the moon almost set1 looking at us like a half-closed eye under the forehead of an enormous band of dark cloud4 ,the next morning at ten we steamed for ,ba1 ran out quite far1 but in shallows inside the far reef1 where at one place the beginnings of things could be seen1 as upon the horizon1 at sea apparently1 a line of mangrove trees1 widely spaced1 dotted the sharp division of blue sea and blue sky4 ,still between them there was a little greenish band like water and really partly water1 and to one side a little line was the reef on which they had begun to grow4 ,inland1 the long lines of the mountains look faintly tawny and blue2 the swamp belt of mangroves surrounding the shore looked very low3 we could discern1 at places1 the circles or elevations by which we had passed over the serrated edge of the mountains4 ,then we ran into a river for some little while1 the usual green bank1 the trees1 and the sugar-cane1 and the mountains in the distance with here and there a strange pillar-like mountain or a perpendicular pile1 to remind one of volcanic forms4 ,a number of figures clothed in white sat upon the green bank and watched the governor's approach4 ,when he landed they made the usual salutation headed by the roku or chief4 ,nailaga1 ,july #abth4 ,we walked into the village neatly laid out in squares1 our first large place since we had left ,suva3 all quite uncivilized1 but in native shape4 ,we found a handsome native house1 handsomely finished1 with a fine tappa hanging1 cutting off one end1 and many mats4 ,this was the house of the roku who had saluted the governor1 a curious person--not a young man--with greyish hair cut short1 short grey moustache1 and a face looking not at all ,polynesian--a very refined face--meaning one that was not in the least heavy--gentlemanly and wary1 and with a peculiar indifference as if he went through his formalities without anxiety because they were the thing4 ,he reminded me of some one at home1 a little unpleasantly1 for the gentleman was evidently not frank unless for his advantage1 and he was old enough to have belonged to ancient cannibal days4 ,he had a white shirt on with a turn-down collar1 and a small blue scarf all which finished him2 and his skin1 not too dark1 made still more the impression of a person who knew just how to do it4 ,so it was also when later he gave the yangona or kava--and led the chant1 so delicately and correctly1 a little bored1 looking to see if it were quite ready1 so that he should have no more to wave his arms and hands in a fixed way to the song4 ,here was an ,asiatic type--my simple ,polynesian was no longer there4 ,later on1 when he came to arrange a bamboo rail for our more convenient getting up and down the slippery plank that served for entrance1 he asked our permission3 the house was no longer his since we were in it4 ,contrariwise to him1 all his companions were rude looking1 some1 ,i regret to say1 exceedingly hard looking4 ,most all at the yangona ceremony were stripped to the waist1 and decorated with garlands1 that emphasized more terribly some frightful countenances4 ,after that1 the presentation of food and the great dance1 like others we had seen but with many variations added1 such as the moving in long files two together1 or in files moving in two opposite directions1 or in striking in order each other's clubs1 or in throwing arms and hands about in various ways resembling the attitudes of the famous siva4 ,all this was in the big square4 ,on one side a great mass of women1 girls1 and children looked on1 seated3 along the road passed ,indians coming and going from work3 the women in their saris and dresses of light red and yellow4 ,since that we have been very idle2 have called on ,mr4 ,marriott1 and at a sugar plantation and lounged all ,sunday--the twelfth--at which date ,i am writing to you4 ,it has been cool at night1 but only because of the draughts of the big house1 with its three big doors4 ,the temperature inside is just #gj4 ,nanuku ,coa1 8,black ,sand40 ,we left ,nailaga 7in ,ba7 on ,monday morning in lovely weather4 ,the early hour after our breakfast was spent in some conversation between the governor and chiefs1 while ,atamo surveyed the scene from the top of the embankment on which the house is built1 enjoying the pleasant shade in which we all were1 thrown across the lawn by the great house4 ,then again we walked off to the river bank after the governor had restored to the ,roku the great stick of office1 which had been received on the governor's arrival4 ,this was about six or more feet long1 with ivory top and grip place 7made1 however1 in ,england74 ,the ,clyde took us along for hours out on the ,ba river1 and along the coast back upon our way4 ,we tried to descry the outlines of the heights which we had reached and descended4 ,peak behind peak stretched along1 with the buttresses of hills sloping down1 all on this side looking white or yellow or pinkish in the sun4 ,the dry side of the island was faintly marked by the dryness of the colour1 for which ,i regretted that ,i had no pastel or chalk colours to imitate the powdering glare of the sun on the great surfaces1 streaked with descending bands of a shade unnamable by our categories of colour4 ,but we knew that all this resemblance to a desert was only for the distance2 nearer by1 the places we had been in were green or yellow-green4 ,there was of course dry1 yellow grass and seeds1 and violet of dried bracken--the grey-violet of the ferns such as we had seen even in wettest ,hawaii1 but wherever any hollow gave a chance1 no matter how small1 there things grew green4 ,in the nearer hills drier green marked the hollows1 and modelled the surfaces2 and by the shore the heavy green of mangroves lined the edges4 ,thambone1 ,monday #acth4 ,late that afternoon we had turned several points1 and came to a halt with want of depth of water opposite the place we were going to stop at4 ,here we landed in a more inconvenient way than usual4 ,we were pulled out in the gig a little way1 then carried on the shoulders of the men to a shifting sandbank on which we walked or sank1 as the case might be2 then again embarked on native backs that were rough with curling hair1 and again reached a mud flat of considerable length1 framed with mangrove trees1 along which we walked to the shore2 this was drier1 not washed over by the tide daily as the former1 upon which ,i saw growing green1 as if never covered by salt water1 the first shoots of the mangrove4 ,its seeds are heavy and float point downward until they stick in appropriate soil4 ,the flat near the shore was all covered with an efflorescence of salt1 and caked and broken up by exposure to the sun4 ,ratu ,joni 7,johnnie7 ,madraiwiwi1 who had come to meet us1 showed us the little pits or hollows for collecting salt water and making salt2 for we had come to the dividing place of the ,south ,seas4 ,here people have made salt1 unlike the ,polynesians of the ,eastern ,seas2 here they have baked earth for pottery--here they have used the bow and arrow--in these ways more civilized than their half fellows1 who in other ways seemed so much less savage than they4 ,but here1 as you know1 the races mix3 the black is all through here3 and strangely enough with the black are all sorts of arts1 and a higher sense of ornament and decoration and construction4 ,for all this ,i have my own theories1 but this is not the place to ventilate them1 even if ,i liked theories1 and you know that ,i detest them--if taken seriously4 ,africa--8nigger0 land--was certainly pictured where we landed4 ,there were big causeways leading to the village--ditches all about--ditches surrounded many of the houses2 and especially the rather inferior one1 but the best1 to which we went4 ,visions of mosquitoes came up1 fortunately not realized to the extent which we had feared4 ,we sat in the house while kava was being prepared and while the chant went on4 ,i noticed how the beams of the roof were prettily ornamented with sennit1 more than ,i should have expected from outside looks4 ,mr4 ,carew told me that people were brought from far and near to do this1 who knew how1 and that certain ones had certain patterns1 that they could best do4 7,r4 ,joni did not quite agree to the fact of such a division of labour47 ,the people here seemed rougher again1 more like our mountain 8devils10 and a queerer lot4 ,they sat on the edge of the little ditch about the house1 which on the other side was edged with enormous bushes of the ,brugmantia ,stramonium1 whose long white flowers have in their manner of growing and shape something poisonous 7according to my feelings7--as the plant has in reality4 ,but the place had a general look of which the plants were not contradictory--the black dry mud1 the little stream1 if one can call it so1 with patches of water ending in a ditch of caky mud1 the withered grasses1 the very low cocoanut trees all squatted together in a grove--the one solitary chunk of a peak cutting the long slope of hill to the north--the knowledge of the fact that here silly brutal-beastly heathenism was still rampant or rather creeping2 that we would take prisoner this evening or to-morrow the hypocritical duffer who had been reviving it where we had seen the stupid little temple1 to which he had allured women from hereabouts2 all this seemed to hang together4 ,this vicinity had been once1 as the governor phrased it1 the ,rome of the 8devil0 worship and the place of revered places4 ,here probably then--for all their worship was an ancestor worship in reality--here was1 therefore1 the first landing of the people who gave the islands their character of ,fijians1 whether they were the first of all or whether they found others before them1 who succumbed to them in some way or other4 ,the good people here take remonstrance not too uneasily4 ,still certainly the next morning the governor gave them all a serious talk1 and took great pains evidently to see that he was fully understood1 as he sat talking with ,mr4 ,carew and slowly and distinctly and with careful emphasis of voice and gesture spoke to the assembled representatives4 ,near him in a rather crushed attitude sat the gentleman who had been practising 8devil0 priestcraft--and he followed us on board1 a sort of prisoner--that is to say1 to answer to the charge of heathen practices at the next court1 for which warrants had been made out4 ,his punishment will be slight3 three months' imprisonment4 ,the law is a native law1 like many others1 such as laws concerning adultery1 that seemed to me rather excessively constructed2 but there are no rules for laws that ,i know of1 except that they should work4 ,as some native said to ,mr4 ,carew1 8,well1 if the man be not punished we shall beat him and perhaps kill him0--and it mattered not that he had not been guilty according to our view2 he had been guilty according to theirs--viz4--his intentions had been discerned4 ,but things are not everywhere the same in this regard4 ,i recall a story ,i heard from ,mr4 ,carew of a woman who had asked the punishment of some man because he had persuaded her one day to misbehave with him4 ,she felt that something was wrong1 and ought to be redressed anyhow4 ,before this next morning's episode1 however1 there was a dance in the later afternoon with much tappa1 rolled around the performers1 to be given afterward1 and very long spears1 and handsome weapons--and a very handsome show of attitudes4 ,the smallness of the village place 7rara7 made the scene more of a picture1 which ,i saw across the ditch framed in by the overhanging trees4 ,in the evening there was talk before bed1 though we were frightfully sleepy2 ,i remember only a few things and indeed ,i repent me of having noted nothing of any previous talks ,i have listened to1 for there is much to be learned always from desultory conversation1 in the way of side lights and a sort of querying of one's already formed notions4 ,i learned1 for instance1 that the black gentleman who was restoring ancient superstition was a church member and communicant1 though every one must have known more or less of his little ways1 in a country where nothing can be hidden long4 ,two pretty stories were told of the lately prevalent belief 7perhaps existing to-day7 of the value of charms1 in both of which young men1 charmed by the priest against fire-arms1 asked at once for a trial4 ,in the first case1 on a discharge a few feet off1 the man hit 8tumbled about the place an instant and died1 being shot through the head40 ,the verdict was that the incantation had been conducted too rapidly1 and that something had been forgotten1 and the priest who had taken to his heels returned in safety4 ,in the other1 two youngsters1 who were going to try the effect of the charm1 in front of the chief's 7their father's7 house1 were reproved by him4 8,i do not wish10 he said1 8that one of my sons should die before my house2 go and try it1 if you like1 at some armed station of the white man40 ,the next day 7,tuesday7 we again proceeded on our way and with similar scenery about us1 and in the late afternoon1 we anchored off the place where ,ratu ,joni's house is--on a hilly up-and-down place1 to which swept down the spurs of the mountain1 and which1 close by1 hung over the town apparently a high rock 7,na ,korotiki74 ,the frame of an old house on the beach made a curious little portico1 or colonnade1 in front of the path that led up to the ,ratu's house4 ,there we spent that night and the following day4 ,the house was one upon more ,european models--the eaves projecting so as to make a sort of verandah of the base or mound of the house1 casements being fitted into the doors and filled with glass2 there were a couple of tables with the books and odds and ends that we know of placed on them--chairs also1 a luxury that is pleasant always after camping4 ,r4 ,joni is a magistrate1 speaks nice ,english1 writes perfectly1 and is just such a person as might seem to augur well for the future4 ,he belongs not to this part of the country1 but to ,ba1 and formerly1 and not so far back1 his family used to feed on this neighbourhood in more ways than one4 ,his uncle was the great ,thakombau 7,cakobau71 who became the greatest chief1 if he was not always that1 and who ended by making the country over to ,england3 ,thakombau himself1 who died but recently1 was more or less of a cannibal1 certainly a terror2 but he is so well known that ,i need not dilate upon a gentleman sufficiently put down in the books4 ,he had1 as ,i understood1 hung ,r4 ,joni's father1 his own brother1 in the public square many years ago with the belief that as hanging was a disgraceful mode of death with us1 it might appear so to the natives4 ,this notion was not a success4 ,the natives who saw the scene applauded the behaviour and good fortune of a man1 who1 having to die1 died publicly and formally in the public square 8like a chief40 ,ratu ,joni had taught himself to read ,english2 when a mere boy he was discovered by the governor reading a little book on ,cook's voyages1 and since that1 was helped and put forward until he has become this good sort of public officer4 ,wednesday1 ,july #aeth4 ,there is hardly anything more to say of our last day1 for the next was that of return3 there was much idleness and looking at newspapers1 etc41 received there by ,mr4 ,joski1 who together with ,mr4 ,berry had met us there by rendezvous1 after their excursion of exploration down to the sea on leaving us4 ,they had had a rough time of it4 ,as it was1 it was pleasant to meet them again1 and our last days were gayer4 ,mr4 ,joski remained to make his way to the station whence we had drawn him three weeks before1 ,vunidawa4 ,mr4 ,carew was only to leave us within a few hours of ,suva 7on the ,rewa74 ,for after steaming along past cape and headland1 in this closed sea1 the long line of hills and mountains receding further back1 as the lowlands of the ,rewa came near1 we came to a little headland and there took the boats1 so as to make for the ,rewa1 get through it to its mouth1 and there catch the steamer again1 and thus avoid the tossing that she would have to undergo outside the reefs4 ,inside even there was much sway of waves1 for the expanse is great enough to make a little sea4 ,the day was lovely4 ,beyond the blue sea1 as if to be looked at1 came up various islands of the group1 clearly or faintly made out1 stretching at intervals along the sea line1 big or small1 and sometimes sliding one behind the other4 ,it was a gay day--a cheerful end to our trip1 which had just lasted three weeks2 so that when we landed at ,suva in the last twilight1 just as the new moon lit up our path up the hill1 the feeling of getting back to civilization was intensified by the ease of our return4 ,for though all was not easy there was no real hardship--for no one can make rough climbing easy1 even were it in ,sussex or ,new ,york ,county--yet we had seen a part of the islands little visited1 very much out of the way1 and a former foothold of all that made ,fiji a terror1 the synonym of barbaric cruelty--the land of the ,cannibal--the 8,devil ,country40 ,,epilogue ,sydney ,n4 ,s4 ,w4 ,august #ast1 #ahia4 ,it seems strange1 after a year of summer and of free air1 to have come almost suddenly into city and winter1 however mild4 ,i am writing to you by a coal fire1 in a room high up1 to which ,i go by an elevator1 and ,i hear outside1 in the damp cool air1 the sound of the cable tramway1 and the rolling of hansom cabs4 ,two weeks ago1 ,i was resting on the ground in straw huts among mountains1 and looking at darkish old gentlemen1 who had killed and eaten not so long ago friends and acquaintances of members of our party4 ,one could not get enough of the air1 and the heat was still part of our living4 ,our ,south ,sea days are over2 in a day or two we bid good-bye to the open spaces and make for the ,straits and ,java4 ,as ,polynesia has faded away1 the sadness of all past things comes upon me--that summer is gone--those hours and those islands which spotted great blue spaces of time and place will be merely memories for autumn4 ,here it is winter--a colder one than those last warm mild days of ,fiji4 ,there a great peace1 a great quiet was around us4 ,we were high above the little town of ,suva1 with an enormous landscape of mountains seen over the spread of the beautiful harbour4 ,in the day the light was tropical1 the sky all blue and radiant1 the mountains clear and distinct4 ,morning and evening the light became more like a memory of home with slight visions of ,scotland in between4 ,the clouds filled up the distance with dimness1 the light of morning or evening hung behind and over them as if asleep4 ,in such a repose of nature we passed our days as if preparing for the final close4 ,we were treated with great kindness2 we had no hard time on board the steamer that took us away reluctant in mind1 and slowly in a week's time we dropped down to this colder latitude and into civilization in full blast4 ,we saw the sky grow clearer and more washed2 the sea lost its blue2 we could almost believe that we were home again as we ended our trip4 ,we had passed some of the ,new ,hebrides1 had passed part of a day outside of ,anaityum1 had seen the ,isle of ,pines like a shadow on the horizon1 had looked in vain for the smoke or light of ,tanna1 and at the end of the week entered the long1 complicated harbour of ,sydney4 ,steamships1 steamboats1 street cars1 hansom cabs1 hotels1 theatres1 ,sarah ,bernhardt playing1 all as before4 ,good-bye to brown skins and skies and seas of impossible azure4 ,good-bye to life in presence of the remotest past4 8,on the knees of the ,ogre ,i pillowed my head2 ,my feet followed safely the ,path of the ,dead2 ,with my brother the ,shark ,god ,i lived as a guest1 ,and reached through the breakers the ,isle of the ,blest4 8,i bathed in the sea where the ,siren still sleeps2 ,the kiss of the ,queen is still red on my lips2 ,my hands touched the ,tree with the ,branches of ,gold2 ,i have lived for a season in the ,order of ,old40 ,,the ,,end ,,the ,,country ,,life ,,press1 ,,garden ,,city1 ,n4 ,y4 ,typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber3 keep steadliy keep steadily pg #aja an ememy's an enemy's pg #afe that is has been that it has been pg #cde plantation af ,atimaono plantation of ,atimaono pg #cgb or an odd unbrella or an odd umbrella pg #ddd ,,footnotes3 #a 8,alofa0 means everything--hail1 welcome1 love1 respect1 etc4 #b ,this is properly the 8guest house0 of the village4 #c ,of course we are not allowed to pay--this would not be 8chiefy0--but we shall make a present some day4 #d ,mariner1 whose book all should read1 was kept a prisoner in ,tonga about #ahjf1 being one of the first white men there4 ,his companions were killed--he contrariwise1 like my father in ,saint ,domingo1 was adopted by the great chief1 and learned the language and all habits4 ,on his escape and return he was carefully examined and investigated by the intelligent physician who wrote his book for him4 ,he repeated every gesture of the kava just as it is to-day1 the scientific man taking it down in an accurate way4 #e ,religion is a better word1 as in ,tongan before ,christianity4 #f ,the traitor is ,judas2 the hesitating judge is ,pilate4 ,when ,mataafa's men defeated the ,germans1 they cut off the heads of some of the ,germans killed4 ,when reproached by him for the act as barbarous1 they indignantly appealed to ,david's having cut off the head of ,goliath1 after having slain him4 #g ,my adopted sister1 the ,queen of ,tahiti1 an island enormously changed by ,european influence and residence1 complained to me of some young man--that his walk was insolent1 out of keeping1 like that of a person of importance by blood4 #h ,pre ,gavet complained to me of what he called the unreasonableness of ,sir ,john ,thurston1 the high commissioner and ,english governor of ,fiji1 when the ,catholic bishop1 upon his canoe's touching the shore of some ,christian village1 was carried up1 canoe and all1 into the public place or village green1 ,sir ,john interfered1 and forbade its ever happening again4 ,and ,i myself could not say that it was not a small discourtesy4 ,but this was the point1 as ,sir ,john told me3 in the old ,fijian habits such things were done for a sovereign chief1 and for a political ruler2 and since the ,church had preached the division of the two authorities1 such special homage should have been reserved for the civil and not the religious power4 #i ,my ,south ,sea companion1 ,mr4 ,henry ,adams4 #aj ,savaii1 ,hawaiki1 ,hawaii2 apparently all ,polynesians come from a place of the name4 ,it is also a name for the ,unknown ,world4 ,many islanders of the ,pacific believe that this ,samoan island is the ancestral ,savaii4 ,the ,samoans themselves assume it to be so4 ,the island holds the home of the ,malietoa1 for centuries a supreme chief1 one of whose representatives is now king by treaty4 #aa ,taup1 properly taupou1 but ,i have written taup because the sound of the final u is too difficult to render1 and hardly discernible4 ,it lengthens the sound like our u1 but with a gentle breathing4 ,you get it more or less in our taboo4 #ab ,siva1 not ,sifa1 as ,i said it at first1 and yet she certainly pronounces it with more of an f sound than our neighbours of this island4 ,still ,i give in to theory1 as facts always must1 for they have no one to back them1 no principles1 no money invested4 #ac ,secondary chiefs2 pronounce 8yatowai40 #ad ,note on ,limits3 ,there is a good account in the small edition of the voyage of the ,duff4 #ae ,tiaapuaa1 8drove of pigs10 was the name of certain trees growing along the edge of the mountain ,moarahi4 ,the profile against the sky suggested1 and the same trees--or others in the same position to-day--as ,i looked at them1 did make a 8procession0 along the ridge4 #af ,the 8cloak0 of the family is the rain2 the ,tevas are the 8children of the ,mist40 ,not so many years ago1 one of the ladies of the family1 perhaps the old ,queen of ,raiatea1 objected to some protection from rain for her son1 who was about to land in some ceremony4 8,let him wear his cloak60 she said4 ,and of course there are traditions of weather that belong to the family1 that accompany it1 and that presage or announce coming events4 #ag ,i understand by this1 two of the hills that edge the valley4 #ah ,the inland mountain peak of the central island1 which he could not see4 #ai 8,le ciel tout l'univers est plein de mes aeux40 #bj ,in the other family at home1 into which ,i was born1 the distance back seems shorter4 ,oberea first saw the ,european ships while my grandfather was alive1 and he must have read the first accounts carried out to ,europe by ,bougainville and ,cook4 #ba ,the bird messenger repeats the places and names of things most sacred to the chief 7as you will see further71 his mount1 his cape1 his marae4 #bb ,to which the chief answers that he will look at his mistress's place or person on the shore4 #bc ,temanutunu means bird that lets loose the army4 #bd ,vaeri ,matuahoe 7mud in my ears71 a ,tino iia 7fish body7 the double man1 half man1 half fish1 recalls the god of the ,raratonga who himself recalled to the missionaries the god ,dagon4 #be ,stone foundation or base of house and space around it4 #bf ,the founder of the ,pomar1 who later became great chiefs and then kings1 by ,european consecration4 #bg ,manea appears in ,cook and in the accounts of the first missionaries4 ,the detail escapes me1 as ,i have no book just at hand1 at this moment4 ,i have a vague recollection of some slight scandal again in family matters1 but missionaries were fond of tittle-tattle1 like most people4 #bh ,the ditches or slopes1 natural or otherwise1 can be filled with sharp stakes and other cruel devices scattered among the trees so as to make a serious defence to any sudden attack4