,illustration ,ladies' ,dress ,shoes of the ,nineteenth ,century ,with ,sixty-three ,illustrations ,,by ,t4 ,,watson ,,greig ,,of ,,glencarse ,author of 8,ladies' ,old ,fashioned ,shoes0 ,,edinburgh3 ,,david ,,douglas #aijj ,preface4 ,the sixty-three ladies' shoes now illustrated have all belonged to and been worn by ladies of the #aith century4 ,they have been most carefully selected to illustrate the variety and change of fashion during that period4 ,the shoes can be copied in any material by any shoemaker4 ,i beg to return thanks to all those who have been so kind as to give me their assistance in collecting them4 ,,glencarse1 #bhth ,may #aijj4 ,frontispiece4 ,this specimen of ,mule or ,bedroom ,slipper is in green velvet1 on which the coat of arms is embroidered in rich silk and metallic threads4 ,the front is finished off with a white silk ruche1 held in place with a row of narrow gold braid1 and the lower outline softened with an edging of fine blonde lace4 ,the heel is covered with royal blue satin1 and the lining is white4 ,the maker is ,abrahams1 ,westbourne ,grove1 ,w4 ,plate ,i4 ,we have in this illustration three fine specimens of the modern shoemaker's craft4 ,the general shape of the shoes is much the same1 but what may be called the decoration is varied4 ,the satisfactory use of the 8,magpie0 colours is striking1 and argues the good taste of the worker1 and the designs1 though simple1 give scope to great excellence in workmanship4 ,the cordonnier artist has apparently considered his lines as carefully as the best of yacht builders4 ,the material employed in the first two instances is kid1 and in the other black and white velvet4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,i4 ,plate ,,ii4 ,illustrates three black satin shoes4 ,the first1 without heel and very square toe1 was1 no doubt1 comfortable1 but decidedly unshapely foot-gear4 ,the sole is thin1 and there is no attempt at ornamentation1 even to hide the elastic ankle strap4 ,as this shoe dates back a considerable number of years1 it serves to show the many modern improvements of its two companions4 ,no4 #b has a general appearance1 which at once demands admiration4 ,the heel is medium1 the toe pointed1 and the ornament is a trefoil in old paste4 ,this shoe belonged to ,mrs ,macandrew of ,dalcross ,castle1 ,n4,b41 who may be congratulated on its size1 or1 rather1 want of size1 and on the good taste which chooses a plainness of style embodying the essence of smartness4 ,the ,jubilee ,shoe has ,louis heel1 and is embroidered with the ,royal ,crown and initials1 ,v4,r41 with motto1 8,god save the ,queen40 ,this shoe was designed in honour of ,her ,majesty's first ,jubilee1 #ahhg4 ,in #ahig a similar shoe appeared with the ,crown1 date1 and wording1 8,sixty ,years ,celebration40 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,plate ,,iii4 ,bronze stage shoe worn by the well-known actress ,miss ,ada ,cavendish4 ,louis heel1 somewhat square toe1 embroidered finely with steel1 and large brown satin-pleated bow with steel buckle4 ,bronze shoe ,no4 #b is one of the smallest in the collection1 and belonged to ,miss ,marsh4 ,it has a pointed toe1 ,louis heel1 and plain little bow of brown satin ribbon4 ,the third shoe1 also in bronze1 has very pointed toe1 with pearl and gold embroidery1 which also adorns the small bow1 leaf-like in form4 ,the side seam is stitched with silk galloon1 similar to what binds the outside edge4 ,the heel is ,louis in style4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,plate ,,iv4 ,this elegant shoe resembles a little its immediate predecessor in ,plate ,,iii4 in the heel1 bow with four small leaves1 and the ribbon-covered side seam1 and1 indeed1 reflects the style of the same maker1 with the difference shown in the embroidery1 which completely covers the pointed toe1 and is of rich gold thread4 ,gold beads further enhance the bow4 ,the kid is bronze4 ,bronze also ,no4 #b1 with interlaced yellow ribbon in diamond pattern4 ,this design of stitched ribbon is a good idea to make a self-coloured shoe correspond more closely with costumes in mixed hues4 ,the round ornament is gilt1 and the heel an ordinary one4 ,the next shoe is in black glac kid1 and belonged to the late ,duchesse d',aumle4 ,the toe is square1 ,louis heel1 and the 8ruched0 rosette is of black silk1 edged with puce4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,iv4 ,plate ,v4 ,no4 #a4--,pink kid shoe1 with round toe1 ordinary heel1 and lined white kid4 ,the knot-bow is in pink silk ribbon1 with picot edge4 ,the late ,marchioness of ,ely owned the centre shoe4 ,it is in rich pink satin1 ornamented with round real lace rosette1 and has ,louis heel and square toe4 ,plain pink satin shoe--the #crd--very neat in shape1 with ordinary heel1 and trimmed small bow of same pink satin as the shoe4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,v4 ,plate ,,vi4 ,here appears another of ,miss ,ada ,cavendish's shoes1 worn on the stage4 ,it is of bright yellow satin1 trimmed silver braid1 which mingles also with the satin in the round rosette1 with mother-of-pearl centre4 ,the toe is very square1 this actress being slow to adopt the pointed toe now so much in vogue4 ,no4 #b1 yellow satin shoe1 has silk embroidery1 studded with orange-tinted cabochons1 and the bow of crimson silk gives an uncommon finish4 ,pointed toe and ordinary heel4 ,the third is of plain straw-coloured satin1 made uncompromisingly to match costume without further decoration than the bow1 formed of the same material4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vi4 ,plate ,,vii4 ,single strap shoe1 in ,french grey satin1 the front in a certain manner unattached from back1 and distinguished from the same by elaborate floral embroidery in silk and iridescent beads1 which figures also on the strap4 ,a single paste stone forms central finish to this shoe--uncommon in shape and design4 ,the second shoe1 deeper in hue1 is said to have belonged to ,mrs4 ,grahame2 and its central tongue1 with two overlapping flaps1 which call for a necessary buckle of paste or silver1 would place its date in the early part of the century4 ,the silver embroidery in thread1 tiny sequins1 beads1 and lace is in admirable taste2 and the whole workmanship of the shoe1 which is in excellent preservation1 is of the best order4 ,the last shoe is of plain blue satin1 with handsome decoration of gold tinsel embroidery1 studded with oval turquoises1 and supplemented with the brightness of crystal beads1 being similar to the trimming of the dress4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,vii4 ,plate ,,viii4 ,this shoe--,figure #a--;bears the print of its ,french origin in its essential smartness1 combined with neatness and uniformity of colouring--namely1 a deep1 rich purple satin1 the bow being of velvet in similar shade4 ,it was worn by a member of the ,rothschild family at the time of the ,queen's first ,jubilee1 and the maker1 ,meier of ,paris1 not only has a great monopoly in the clothing and adorning of fashionable feet1 but is also much in request in successfully fulfilling stage taste and requirements in shoes4 ,the second shoe on the page is of very small size1 and is of ,english make1 though owned and worn by the ,french ,duchesse de ,beauprmont4 ,it is of bright blue silk1 with large rosette and peculiarly shaped heel1 being much elongated underneath towards the side seam4 ,the next1 pale blue silk shoe1 is made simply to match a gown1 and probably out of the same fabric4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,viii4 ,plate ,,ix4 ,the first shoe of this plate would be remarkable for neatness1 though it might be thought somewhat spoilt by a squareness of toe1 but it will be noticed the idea of squareness appears carried out otherwise in the cut of the shoe4 ,the space between the principal strap and the three small ones crossing the foot makes an uncommon variety4 ,the little bows of twilled silk 7of which the shoe also is constructed7 give a chic1 if somewhat formal finish1 to each band4 ,the heel is a ,louis shape4 ,figure #b belonged to an ,edinburgh belle of the season of #ahgb1 and is of tiny dimensions1 though the old fashion of ornamenting with a large bow deprived the wearers of these small sizes of some of the credit4 ,the third and most elegant shoe possesses one of the highest ,louis heels worn off the stage1 and belonged to an ,american lady who1 like several others1 came to this country and acquired for herself the right to the motto first adopted by ,alexander the ,great--namely1 8,veni1 ,vidi1 ,vici40 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,ix4 ,plate ,x4 ,this shoe of white silk has the novel decoration of small netted buttons4 ,these buttons rest on simulated straps1 the silk being merely cut away to show spaces of the blue lining between4 ,the shoe has altogether a perfection of style which its distinguished owner1 an autocrat in dress1 always demands4 ,no4 #b is of very small size in white satin1 richly embroidered in crystal beads and thick silk twist4 ,the open-work meshes1 like spider webs1 could reveal a pretty shade of stocking4 ,the latter idea1 however1 is carried out to perfection by ,no4 #c1 a shoe which is composed entirely of strong cream silk guipure4 ,it is eminently fitted for evening--especially dancing--wear1 both as to texture and coolness4 ,the pattern of the lace in this example adapts itself to the neatest and smallest of shapes4 ,the back is kept in shape with satin-covered stiffening4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,x4 ,plate ,,xi4 ,this shoe of ,cromwellian shape hails from the stage1 and boasts the highest heel in the collection4 ,it is thickly embroidered in small crystal beads studded with cabochons1 the latter also in clear crystal1 which is a decoration difficult to beat4 ,the wide tongue is kept in place by a strap1 which would require a diamond or silver buckle to fasten it at the side1 not visible in the illustration4 ,the lining is of pale blue satin4 ,no4 #b is owned by a society belle1 whose beauty may be said to extend from 8top to toe10 as the toe1 or rather toes1 encased in this foot-gear must be of the smallest and daintiest description1 and demanding a share of the admiration granted to their lovely owner's figure and face4 ,the next shoe is a wedding shoe1 looking strange to us in its old-world form1 but the very mould of fashion in its day1 which dates nearly forty years ago4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xi4 ,plate ,,xii4 ,a handsome shoe this of rich silver brocade1 with bow of same1 pointed toe1 and substantial ,louis heel4 ,the incurved seam at back gives a firmer hold to heel and ankle4 ,miss ,edna ,may owned the centre shoe1 and it was worn by her as the 8,belle of ,new ,york40 ,the embroidery in white silk and silver beads is faultless in design4 ,the heel is an extremity of height1 and is much the safer for the single ankle-strap1 with its neat bow and ornament4 ,no4 #c1 of plain silver kid1 has elongated toe1 beaded by small silver ornament4 ,it is a suitable shoe for fancy dress1 but has this drawback--together with its two companions1 also much besilvered--a liability to tarnish4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xii4 ,plate ,,xiii4 ,this well-shaped boot stands out unique amongst the bevy of surrounding shoes1 but its texture1 shade1 and workmanship are none the less delicate4 ,its owner and wearer was of exalted position1 and her foreign birth1 perhaps1 inclined her to a departure from the usual style for evening wear4 ,no4 #b shoe is of a shape frequently made in two shades1 but looks no less well for its sameness of colouring in the present instance1 with which the neat trio of steel daisies admirably harmonise1 adapting it at once to modified mourning if desired4 ,last on this page is a bridesmaid's shoe1 and it could well be taken as a pattern of style for anyone called upon to enact that part4 ,the bow of silk ribbon harmonises with the heliotrope coloured satin1 of which this shoe and its two predecessors are made4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xiii4 ,plate ,,xiv4 ,first appears in this shoe a further idea of contrivances for firm wear4 ,this is in the form of a useful elastic strap1 covered with heliotrope satin bow to match shoe4 ,it is a more clumsy appliance than the indrawn heel at the top1 before described in ,plate ,,xii4 ,the second shoe1 also in heliotrope shade1 but of silk1 belonged to the ,comtesse de ,paris1 and is decorated with real lace4 ,it has a square toe and low heel4 ,no4 #c is distinguished for its embroidery1 the species of flower and the blending of its colours harmonising so well with the lilac colour of satin4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xiv4 ,plate ,,xv4 ,first1 a shoe which can be certified as ,imperial1 and bears the ,french print of good taste in elaboration4 ,the little border of lace all round the edge and also round the bow gives daintiness and lightness1 whereas the gold embroidery gives massive richness at the same time4 ,the additional knot of gold lace and tassels is peculiarly handsome and effective1 and the rich embroidery and bead work extends even to the heel--an ,imperial heel evidently demanding special adornment4 ,algiers contributes this specimen of slipper1 ,eastern in design and shape1 and in its lavish covering of patterned gold4 ,no4 #c is another case of the evening 8,oxford0 shoe4 ,it is beautifully shaped and free from clumsiness1 and the embroidery in lightness and effectiveness of design scores a success4 ,the ,duchess who chose and wore it might well be imitated in such a fashion4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xv4 ,plate ,,xvi4 ,the first shoe on this plate belonged to and was worn by ,miss ,christine ,nilsson in 8,lohengrin40 ,it is of cloth of gold1 and testifies that the great singer does not neglect1 in her superior charm of voice1 the additional charm of dress4 ,the gilt buttons are appropriate1 and the crystal studs1 glistening like dewdrops across the instep1 are original in arrangement4 ,the toe is very elongated4 ,otherwise the shoe is of the ordinary approved shape4 ,no1 #b is gilded kid1 superior to the cloth of woven gold thread from its untarnishable quality4 ,the round gilt button makes a neat finish4 ,the heel is rather low for smart effect4 ,the third shoe of cloth of gold boasts a ,duchess for its quondam owner1 who1 in turn1 can boast that her foot could grace its tiny dimensions4 ,the sole ornament of loops of braid is uncommon1 in the fact that it is composed of bullion and not tinsel4 ,the shoe has a ,louis heel and white kid lining4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xvi4 ,plate ,,xvii4 ,though simply severe in style 7which the richness of material demands71 this shoe doubtless repeats the hue and texture of the gorgeous sweeping folds of the costume it was made to match4 ,the paste button is neat and good1 and too modest in size to publish its own failure in competition with the jewels due to the rank and toilette of the wearer4 ,the ,louis heel is also velvet-covered4 ,no4 #b shoe is a departure from the ordinary evening style4 ,it must have a firmness for dancing1 which is1 perhaps1 advantageous in some cases4 ,the festooned embroidery in chain stitch and ,french knots is tastefully done in silk of darker shade1 and adds to the originality of the shoe4 ,also a feature of it is that it is made all in one piece1 and a line of stitching simulates a seam4 ,the last is of watered silk4 ,the inside lining is of delicate pink satin4 ,the buttoned strap is a favourite style with many--sometimes single1 sometimes multiplied1 and more or less elaborate4 ,the plain gilt button in this case alone figures1 whilst on the toe rests a small bow of watered silk ribbon exact in shade4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xvii4 ,plate ,,xviii4 #a4 ,deep eau-de-nil satin shoe worn by ,miss ,ada ,cavendish as ,lady ,teazle4 ,large rosette1 with gilt and steel square buckle4 ,this size of bow 7now obsolete7 admitted of an elastic insertion at the back1 which1 no doubt1 added to the ease of fitting4 ,the toe-cap is chain-stitched and appliqu4 ,the next is similar in hue1 but of modern shape4 ,it is very finely beaded1 so fine as to readily conjure up the impression of a possible use of seed pearl4 ,the toe is pointed1 and the heel in ,louis style4 ,no4 #c is also of a modern shape1 the colour yellowish green4 ,this shoe has only a ,louis heel and general neatness to distinguish it4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xviii4 ,plate ,,xix4 ,the satin ,oxford shoe again appears first on this plate4 ,it is particularly small and neat indeed4 ,only the owner of a small foot could1 with success1 adopt this style4 ,it is very finely embroidered in steel beads in a floral pattern4 ,louis heel1 silk lace to match4 ,no4 #b4--;,a deep red shoe1 with closely embroidered toe in gold thread4 ,it has plain silk bow to match and ,louis heel4 ,deep crimson also ,no4 #c1 with embroidery of rich gold thread picked out with white beads to emphasise the pattern4 ,the rosette has rows of beads alternate red and gold1 on every folded edge1 and in the centre several rows4 ,the toe is pointed2 an ordinary heel4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xix4 ,plate ,,xx4 ,the brocade of this first shoe is rich in colour and substance4 ,the pattern is well manipulated1 so that the effect is good4 ,the bow is of the same material4 ,the next shoe stands out in originality of style4 ,the red and white satin make a vivid contrast4 ,the piece of red attached to the vamp is sewn to the sole only1 otherwise loose1 and therefore would almost make necessary an ornament to fix it at the top as well and give a finish4 ,this shoe1 the third and last1 belonged to ,rosa ,anderson1 a fair maid of ,perth1 whose elopement created a great sensation in bygone days in the town1 to whose ,council her husband belonged4 ,let us hope this actual pair of shoes did not carry their fair owner away to a chimerical happiness from the path of duty which appeared prosaic in the face of flattery and attention from one whose position far exceeded that of the burgher's wife4 ,illustration3 ,,plate ,,xx4 ,finis4 ,dancing sandals worn in the ballet by ,madame ,cerri1 made of pink satin with pink satin ties4 ,the soles very small1 and the padded toes protruding considerably beyond them4 ,illustration