,transcriber's ,notes3 ,underscores 80 before and after a word or phrase indicate italics in the original text4 ,equal signs 80 before and after a word or phrase indicate bold in the original text4 ,small capitals have been converted to ,,solid capitals4 ,illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs4 ,deprecated spellings have been preserved4 ,typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected4 ,illustration3 ,,frontispiece ,she stretcheth out her hand to the ,poor4-- ,she looketh well to the ways of her ,household4 ,prov4 #ca ,ch4 ,frontispiece to the ,work ,woman's ,guide4--,pub4 by ,stephen ,marshall ,c4 ,,the ,,workwoman',s ,,guide1 ,,containing ,,instructions ,,to ,,the ,,inexperienced ,,in ,,cutting ,,out ,,and ,,completing ,,those ,,articles ,,of ,,wearing ,,apparel1 c41 ,,which ,,are ,,usually ,,made ,,at ,,home2 ,,also1 ,,explanations ,,on ,,upholstery1 ,,straw ,,platting1 ,,bonnet-,,making1 ,,knitting1 c4 ,,by ,a ,,lady4 8,,method ,,shortens ,,labour40 ,,london3 ,,simpkin1 ,,marshall1 ,,and ,,co41 ,,stationers' ,,hall ,,court3 ,,thomas ,,evans1 ,,colmore ,,row1 ,,birmingham4 #ahch4 ,,birmingham3 ,,printed ,,by ,,thomas ,,evans1 ,,colmore ,,row4 ,,preface4 8,but to know ,that which before us lies in daily life2 ,is the prime wisdom40 ,,milton4 ,the ,author of the following pages has been encouraged to hope1 that1 in placing them1 after much deliberation1 in the hands of a printer1 she is tendering an important and acceptable1 however humble1 service to persons of her own sex1 who1 in any condition of life1 are engaged1 by duty1 or inclination1 in cutting out wearing apparel in a family1 or for their poorer neighbours4 ,she trusts1 in particular1 that ,clergymen's ,wives1 ,young ,married ,women1 ,school-mistresses1 and ,ladies' ,maids may find1 in the 8,workwoman's ,guide10 a fast and serviceable friend4 ,the patterns1 which comprise all the necessary parts of clothing in great variety1 to suit both rich and poor1 have been some years in collecting1 and are given as the most generally approved shapes and sizes in present use4 ,economy and neatness of appearance have been equally consulted in choosing them1 and all have been successfully tried4 ,in selecting and arranging the ,infant's wardrobe1 the comfort of the little wearers and ease of dressing1 have been accurately studied4 ,interested by the feelings of a ,mother in this division of her book1 the ,author has worked at it with especial zeal and assiduity1 and submits it with particular confidence4 ,to assist the unpractised in understanding the written descriptions1 almost every pattern is likewise drawn twice 7see ,plates71 so as not only to represent its appearance when cut out1 but also when made up4 ,the difficulty of describing irregular and complicated shapes has been obviated by enclosing each in a square1 marked with a scale of nails2 by which means1 even sleeves1 collars1 capes1 and bonnets can be cut out with unfailing precision4 ,in a charity school1 for which the ,author was much interested1 and for the use of which1 both her collection of patterns was originally begun1 and her drawings made1 girls from ten to sixteen years of age were in the constant habit of cutting out correctly and easily1 with no other guidance than the drawings4 ,to sketch the pattern on a slate1 and to cut it out first in paper1 was all the facility afforded to1 or needed by1 beginners4 ,the ,reader1 as she advances1 will see that this work is not confined to the simply cutting out and making up articles of dress1 but likewise includes the important subjects of ,house ,linen and ,upholstery1 and that the minor branches of knitting and straw platting have their places4 ,directions which1 it is trusted1 will be found useful1 respecting various other points of domestic industry1 are not omitted4 ,on the general plan of the work1 and the motives which have induced the writer to venture it before the ,public1 she need not1 perhaps1 say more4 ,a few words are near her heart1 which she does not resist the temptation of adding4 ,a woman1 who in the upper classes of society1 has taken her place at the head of a family1 has undertaken a high and responsible situation2 but one1 in which1 by daily attention to certain humble details1 she can essentially serve the welfare of some who are dear to her1 and of many who are dependent on her4 ,the ,author1 as an ,englishwoman1 reflects with pride upon the number of her country women1 whom the gifts of nature1 and a brilliant or careful education enables to grace their place in society4 ,she believes that very many of them are further qualified1 as far as good will and natural intelligence can go1 to discharge those humbler1 but not less honourable1 parts of their calling1 to which she has alluded1 but are deterred from applying to them 7or much embarrassed if they do71 from finding that1 whilst they are proficients in many beautiful accomplishments1 and not without cultivation in the more solid parts of information1 they are yet mere novices in other unostentatious attainments1 that have become indispensable to their domestic efficiency4 ,the complete remedy for this inconvenience can only be found in making some further knowledge of domestic arts and economy a prominent part of the education of our daughters2 home and school must both be called upon to contribute4 ,amongst the arts in question1 the homely one of cutting out is entitled to rank high1 for subserviency to comfort and elegance1 as well as to economy1 whenever this is an object1 and in what fortune can it wisely be neglected8 ,it is one which may seem peculiarly fitted to be taught in schools1 by the conveniency of the means for teaching1 by its cleanliness1 and1 if the ,author may be allowed to say so1 by its intellectual character1 since to cut out well1 it is necessary to think1 and indeed the art1 continually depending upon exact measurements1 proportions and even correct diagrams1 or figures1 must be considered as a sort of unassuming household mathematics4 ,dress1 it seems1 has of late been admitted by philosophical critics to the dignity of a fine art3 it both requires and cultivates taste1 and the consideration of a pleasing effect and air in dress is first applied in the cutting out4 ,no one who has not been a frequent visitor in the homes of the poor1 is aware of the extravagance and waste usual among women of a humble class1 arising from their total ignorance in matters of cutting out and needle-work1 nor how much instruction they want on those points1 even to the making of a petticoat and a pinafore4 ,the same ignorance and unskilfulness1 and the same consequent waste of laborious and scanty earnings is common among our female household servants2 who1 by putting out their clothes to dress-makers1 pay nearly half as much for the making up as for the materials4 ,the direct saving of expense upon articles of dress1 were they qualified to work for themselves1 would1 with all persons in these conditions of life1 be an important annual item4 ,but the indirect and further benefit would be of infinitely more account4 ,the thrifty disposition1 the regularity and neatness1 the ideas of order and management1 inspired by the conscious ability and successful exertion1 in one leading branch of good housewifery1 cannot be too highly prized or diligently cultivated2 for the result is moral4 ,the orderly house but reflects the orderly mind2 the humble wife and mother1 whose active indefatigable hand1 silently executing her careful ingenious thought1 improves the comforts1 the visible respectability1 and real condition of her husband and children1 is mistress of a secret for blending her best and tenderest affections with the employment of every day3 she contrives judiciously what she constantly and earnestly meditates1 and finds no weariness in the labour to which strength continually flows from a deep fountain in her heart4 ,personal investigation alone can satisfy those ladies who interest themselves in the welfare of the poor1 how useful a kindness they would exercise in making efficient systematic instruction1 in these arts1 an ordinary and important part of school business4 ,could the ,author hope that the little work1 in which she has endeavoured to arrange the elements of cutting out progressively1 would ever be admitted as a manual in the village school-room1 a cherished wish of her heart would be gratified2 in the mean time1 she will be glad to think1 that she may have saved some wives and mothers1 entering upon their arduous vocations1 a part of the inconveniences experienced by herself1 although accounted a tolerable workwoman in the general acceptation of the term1 when1 on assuming the former of these characters1 she was compelled to rely on her own resources4 ,the ,author must here acknowledge her obligations to that valuable little work 8,cottage ,comforts20 also to the 8,teacher's ,assistant in ,needlework0 and 8,knitting10 and a few others1 for some useful suggestions4 ,,table ,,of ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,needlework4 ,comprising ,plain ,stitches1 ,fancy ,stitches1 ,marking1 ,darning1 ,braiding1 c4 ,general ,rules for completing ,work4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,a ,,few ,,observations ,,on ,,purchasing ,,goods4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,general ,,rules ,,for ,,cutting ,,out4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,work-,,box4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,on ,,baby ,,linen1 ,,with ,,scales ,,for ,,the ,,clothes ,,of ,,older ,,children4 ,caps2 ,cockades2 ,rosettes2 ,infants' ,open ,shirts2 first ,flannel ,gowns2 ,flannel ,bands2 ,night-gowns2 ,pinafores2 ,petticoats2 ,robes2 ,receiver2 ,shawl2 ,flannel ,cloak2 ,child's ,bib2 ,infants' ,pelisses and ,cloaks2 ,infant's ,hood2 ,cots2 ,cribs2 ,cradles2 ,basket2 ,pincushion4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,linen ,,for ,,men1 ,,women1 ,,girls1 ,,and ,,boys4 ,women's ,shifts2 ,child's ,shifts2 ,child's ,trowsers2 ,girl's ,trowsers2 ,trowsers for ,girls or ,boys2 ,leglets2 ,women's ,drawers2 ,turkish ,trowsers2 ,men's ,drawers2 ,women's ,night ,jackets2 ,night-gowns2 ,flannel ,waistcoat for a ,lady2 ,boys' ,waistcoats2 ,man's ,under ,waistcoat2 ,boy's ,upper ,waistcoat2 ,child's ,night ,vest2 ,child's ,day ,vest2 ,bathing ,gown2 ,women's ,night-caps2 ,caps for poor ,women2 ,caps for ,servants2 ,caps for ,school girls2 ,bathing ,cap2 ,dressing-gowns for ,men2 ,dressing-gowns for ,women2 ,cloak ,dressing-gown2 ,dressing ,jacket2 ,flannel ,petticoats2 ,pockets2 ,frills2 ,cuffs2 ,tidy ,cuffs2 ,mourning ,cuffs2 ,aprons2 ,dress ,aprons2 ,working ,aprons2 ,apron ,pockets2 ,grocers' ,aprons2 ,cooking ,apron2 ,pantry ,apron2 ,gentleman's ,working ,apron2 ,neck-tie2 ,scarfs2 ,women's ,stays2 ,nursing ,stays2 ,men's ,stays or ,belts2 ,children's ,stays2 ,bustles2 ,veils2 ,long and short ,sleeves for ,children2 ,long and short ,sleeves for grown-up ,persons2 ,old ,woman's ,sleeve2 ,boy's ,sleeve2 ,shoulder-pieces2 ,capes2 ,collars2 ,riding ,collar2 ,habit-shirt2 ,chemisette2 ,school-girl's ,tippet2 ,petticoats2 ,nursing ,petticoat2 ,gowns2 ,general observations on ,colours2 ,on the making up and choosing ,dresses2 ,general observations on cutting out ,dresses2 ,bodies of ,gowns--high1 low1 full1 plain2 ,on trimming ,bodies of low ,dresses2 ,nursing ,gowns2 ,children's ,frocks and ,tunics2 ,boy's ,surtout2 ,child's ,pelisses2 ,day-caps2 ,morning ,caps2 ,bonnet ,caps2 ,cap for an ,old ,lady2 ,caps for the ,society of ,friends2 ,lappets2 ,widow's ,cap2 ,velvet or ,silk ,cap2 ,care of the ,lady's ,wardrobe2 ,to fold up ,dresses and ,frocks2 ,general observations on ,packing2 ,care of the ,gentleman's ,wardrobe2 ,mourning and ,dress at ,funerals2 ,pinafores and ,saccarines for ,children2 ,housemaid's ,pinafore2 ,school-girl's ,pinafore2 ,surgeon's ,pinafore2 ,waggoner's ,smock-frock2 ,shirts for the ,labouring ,classes2 ,gentlemen's ,shirts2 ,gentlemen's ,shirt ,fronts2 ,boys' ,shirt ,fronts2 ,gentlemen's ,stocks2 ,clergyman's ,dress2 ,the ,cassock2 ,the ,gown2 ,the ,surplice2 ,the ,sash2 ,scarf2 ,bands2 ,the ,clerk's ,gown2 ,children's ,bonnets2 ,hats and ,caps for ,boys2 ,travelling ,caps2 ,lady's ,riding ,cap2 ,working ,man's ,cap2 ,women's ,bonnets2 ,old ,women's ,bonnets2 ,bonnet for a ,member of the ,society of ,friends2 ,school-girl's ,bonnet2 ,oiled ,silk ,hood2 ,calche2 ,women's ,cloaks2 ,mantelet or short ,cloak2 ,carriage ,cloak2 ,old ,woman's ,cloak and ,hood2 ,school-girl's ,cape or ,cloak2 ,boy's ,cloak2 ,shawls2 ,shawl for a ,member of the ,society of ,friends2 ,quilted ,shawl2 ,mourning ,shawl2 ,spencers for ,children2 ,tippet and ,sleeves2 ,neck ,handkerchiefs2 ,pocket ,handkerchiefs2 ,bridal ,favours2 ,men's ,slippers2 ,ladies' ,slippers2 ,travelling or ,over-shoes2 ,half-slippers2 ,carriage ,slippers2 ,babies' ,shoes2 ,on covering ,shoes2 ,gloves2 ,on ,down and ,fur2 ,muffs2 ,boas2 ,tippets2 ,operas or ,ruffs2 ,to clean ,fur and ,down2 ,to preserve ,fur4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,house ,,linen4 ,division into ,bed-room1 ,table and ,pantry1 ,housemaid's1 ,kitchen1 and ,stable ,linen2 ,number required1 kinds to be chosen1 size and price of each2 ,sheets2 ,pillow-slips2 ,towels2 ,toilette or ,dressing ,table ,covers2 ,table ,cloths2 ,dinner ,napkins2 ,doyleys2 ,knife-box ,cloths2 ,pantry ,knife ,cloths2 ,pantry ,dresser ,cloths2 ,plate-basket ,cloth2 ,pantry ,china ,cloths2 ,pantry ,glass ,cloths2 ,pantry ,lamp ,cloths2 ,waiting ,gloves2 ,housemaid's ,dusters2 ,scouring ,flannels2 ,paint ,cloths2 ,chamber ,bottle ,cloths2 ,chamber ,bucket ,cloths2 ,clothes ,bags2 ,kitchen ,table ,cloths2 ,dresser ,cloths2 ,roller ,cloths2 ,dusters2 ,tea ,cloths2 ,jelly ,bags2 ,ham ,bags2 ,cheese ,cloths2 ,stable ,linen2 ,general observations on ,linen2 ,on marking ,house ,linen2 ,linen ,press2 ,washing ,books--,nursery ,washing ,book2 ,lady's ,washing ,book2 ,gentleman's ,washing ,book2 ,house ,linen ,washing ,book4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,upholstery4 ,general observations2 ,bedsteads--all their parts and the different kinds2 ,hints on putting up ,beds2 ,on furnishing ,beds2 ,general observations on the choice and arrangement of ,drapery for ,beds2 ,on the ,heads and ,tops of ,beds2 ,footboards2 ,the ,half-tester2 ,french ,pole ,bed2 ,french ,arrow ,bed2 ,french ,bed2 ,french ,block ,bed2 ,french ,canopy ,bed2 ,turn-up ,bed2 ,press ,bed2 ,stump ,bed2 ,trestle ,bed2 ,hanging ,bed or ,cot2 ,mattresses2 ,beds2 ,bolsters and ,pillows2 ,blankets2 ,counterpanes2 ,watch-,pockets2 ,carpets2 ,list of different kinds2 ,general observations on making up ,carpets2 ,window ,curtains--,various kinds of ,drapery for ,windows2 ,curtains for a ,passage or ,church ,window2 ,muslin ,curtains2 ,half ,curtains2 ,full ,curtains2 ,rod ,curtain2 ,window ,blinds2 ,chair1 ,sofa1 and other ,covers2 ,divan2 ,footstools and ,hassocks2 ,church ,basses2 ,church ,seats2 ,table ,covers2 ,screens4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,covers1 ,,cases1 ,c4 ,night-gown ,bag2 ,travelling ,dressing-case or ,tidy2 ,glove ,cases2 ,pocket ,handkerchief ,case2 ,shoe or ,brush and ,comb ,bags2 ,shoe ,bags2 ,mat2 ,boot ,bags2 ,nursery ,bag2 ,book ,covers2 ,trunk ,cover2 ,knife or ,fork ,case2 ,card ,case2 ,candlestick ,case2 ,nosegay ,case2 ,wool ,case2 ,housewife2 ,yard ,measure2 ,pincushions2 ,bags2 ,needle ,case2 ,work ,basket2 ,travelling ,bag2 ,school-girl's ,badge2 ,carriage ,case or ,portfolio2 ,travelling ,portfolio2 ,seaman's or ,traveller's ,case2 ,gentleman's ,travelling ,dressing-,case2 ,watch ,pocket2 ,invalid's ,chair4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,receipts4 ,marking ,ink2 ,red ,marking ,ink2 ,to remove ,marking ,ink2 ,salts of ,lemon2 ,to take out ,ink without ,salts of ,lemon2 ,bleaching ,liquid2 ,to remove ,stains2 ,scouring ,drops2 ,to remove ,grease2 ,to take out ,mildew2 ,to take out ,iron-moulds2 ,to remove ,paint ,spots2 ,to clean ,silks and ,cottons2 ,to restore scorched ,linen2 ,to clean ,calico ,furniture2 ,to clean ,chintz2 ,to scour ,carpets2 ,to wash ,silk ,handkerchiefs2 ,to wash coloured ,muslins1 c42 ,to restore the colour of ,linen2 ,to wash ,china-crape ,scarfs1 c42 ,to wash ,blonde2 ,to wash ,lace2 ,to wash ,kid ,gloves2 ,to clean white ,satin ,shoes2 ,to keep ,blonde1 c42 ,to dye ,gloves like ,york-,tan or ,limerick2 ,to dye white ,gloves purple2 ,wash for ,leather ,gloves2 ,to dye ,cotton a ,nankeen colour2 ,to dye the ,linings of ,furniture buff or salmon colour2 ,to clean ,gold and ,silver ,lace2 ,to preserve ,linen from ,moths2 ,to preserve ,woollens and ,blankets2 ,to preserve ,furs and ,woollens from ,moths2 ,to varnish old ,straw or ,chip ,hats2 ,to raise the surface of ,velvet2 ,to make ,starch2 ,to make ,court ,plaister2 ,lavender ,water2 ,eau de ,cologne2 ,powder for ,infants' ,dust ,bags2 ,pot-,pourri2 ,scent ,bags2 ,to make ,shoes ,waterproof2 ,remedy against ,fleas2 ,remedy against ,bugs2 ,to destroy ,bugs2 ,to destroy ,flies2 ,general observations on ,washing and ,ironing2 ,list of ,articles required in a ,laundry2 ,washing2 ,hanging to dry2 ,mangling and ,ironing2 ,clear ,starching2 ,gaufiering4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,knitting4 ,knitting ,pins2 ,materials for ,knitting2 ,knit ,stitches2 ,casting on ,stitches2 ,common ,knitting ,stitch2 ,dutch common ,knitting2 ,turn or ,seam ,stitch2 ,widening2 ,narrowing2 ,slipping a ,stitch2 ,finishing off2 ,welting2 ,binding2 ,fancy ,stitches2 ,double ,knitting2 ,open ,hem ,stitch2 ,honey-comb ,stitch2 ,french ,stitch2 ,fantail ,stitch2 ,network ,stitch2 ,open ,cross ,stitch2 ,berlin ,wire ,stitch2 ,plain open ,stitch2 ,crowsfoot ,stitch2 ,chain ,stitch2 ,embossed ,hexagon ,stitch2 ,common ,plat2 ,elastic ,rib2 ,rough-cast or ,huckaback ,stitch2 ,embossed ,diamond ,stitch2 ,ladder ,stitch2 ,imitation ,double ,knitting2 ,herring-bone ,stitch2 ,purse ,stitch2 ,lace wave ,stitch2 ,herring-bone ,bag ,stitch2 ,improved ,open ,stitch2 ,shawl ,pattern2 ,cross-stitch ,pattern2 ,curb ,stitch2 ,ribbed ,stitch2 ,diamond ,stitch2 ,raised ,french ,stitch2 ,two coloured ,chain ,stitch2 ,rug ,stitch2 ,the ,nondescript2 ,a ,new ,stitch2 ,muffatee ,stitch2 ,knit ,fringes2 ,fringe and ,border2 ,stockings--,general proportions for ,stockings2 ,scale for ,stockings2 ,socks2 ,garters2 ,socks for ,babies2 ,babies' ,socks or ,slippers2 ,child's long ,sock2 ,child's first ,stocking2 ,the ,ribbed ,boot2 ,the ,over shoe2 ,the ,snow-heel2 ,little ,night ,boots2 ,socks for ,invalids2 ,knit ,boots2 ,scale for ,knit ,boots2 ,night ,socks2 ,knit ,sole2 ,knee ,cap2 ,knit ,gloves2 ,driving ,mits2 ,mittens for ,babies2 ,mittens2 ,armlets2 ,muffatees2 ,frill or ,ruff2 ,scarf2 ,comforter2 ,handkerchief2 ,knit ,habit-shirt2 ,knit ,half-handkerchief2 ,honey-comb ,shawl2 ,a ,tippet2 ,a ,purse2 ,a ,baby's ,knitted ,cap2 ,baby's ,hood2 ,gentleman's ,night-cap2 ,knitted ,bags2 ,kettle ,holders2 ,knit ,open ,braid2 ,mats2 ,coverlet2 ,blankets2 ,knit ,cotton ,doyleys4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,straw ,,platting4 ,apparatus required2 ,bleaching ,box2 ,mill for the ,plat2 ,bonnet ,stand2 ,box ,iron2 ,dyeing ,kettle2 ,straw ,splitter2 ,on preparing ,straw2 ,on ,bleaching ,straw2 ,dyeing ,straw black2 ,directions for ,platting2 ,plats2 ,plats of ,three2 ,plat of ,four2 ,angular ,plat of ,four2 ,plat of ,five2 ,plats of ,six2 ,plats of ,seven2 ,plats of ,eight2 ,plats of ,nine2 ,plats of ,ten2 ,plats of ,eleven2 ,plat of ,twelve2 ,plats of ,thirteen2 ,plat of ,fourteen2 ,plat of ,fifteen2 ,plat of ,sixteen2 ,hollow ,spiral ,straw work2 ,the ,tuscan ,hat2 ,english ,leghorn ,plat2 ,bonnets2 ,receipts for ,stiffening2 ,on cleaning ,bonnets2 ,turning ,bonnets2 ,hats2 ,mats2 ,to make ,bobbin ,tape4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #a4 ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #ab ,fig #h ,fig #aa ,fig #ac ,,part ,,first4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,needlework4 8,but here the needle plies its busy task40--,,cowper4 ,see that the edges of the work are perfectly even before turning down1 which should be done to a thread1 unless the work is not cut straight-wise4 ,the needle and cotton should be adapted to the quality of the work1 and when the latter is very fine1 rovings taken from it1 and used as thread1 are very good for the purpose4 ,the cotton should be always worked the way it unwinds from the reel1 for this reason1 the needle had better be threaded before cutting off the cotton4 ,the thimble should be worn on the second finger of the right hand4 ,the needle1 while being threaded1 is held in the left hand1 and the cotton in the right4 ,the scissors1 when used1 should have the thumb placed in the upper ring1 and the third finger in the lower3 they should also be held with the sharper point uppermost4 ,when work is very strong1 the thread used in making it up should be strengthened by waxing4 ,thread is much more durable than cotton1 and it should therefore be used in working all kinds of linen4 ,cottons are better for calico1 muslin1 c4 ,all kinds of threads and cottons1 especially when coloured1 should be kept 7when not in use7 wrapped up in brown paper1 as the air is apt to decay them4 ,sewing silks should be wrapped up in soft wash-leather4 ,buttons1 hooks and eyes1 tapes1 c4 are all better kept folded up1 as they are apt to tarnish and decay4 ,needles1 scissors1 and all kinds of steel1 injure materially when exposed much to the air1 especially at the sea coast4 ,,hemming4 ,turn down the raw edge twice very evenly1 and flatten it with the thumb and finger1 taking care to arrange the corners nicely4 ,in beginning to hem1 point your needle from your chest towards the right1 and after drawing the thread nearly through1 stroke the end under the hem1 so as to keep it fast without the assistance of a knot1 which is always untidy4 ,when your needleful is used1 cut off the end1 leaving just sufficient to stroke under the hem4 ,in fastening off effectually1 sew several stitches close together1 and cut off the thread closely4 ,hem from right to left4 ,,sewing ,,and ,,felling4 ,the work for sewing is thus prepared3 the two selvages are placed together1 or if there are no selvages1 the raw edge of one piece is turned down once1 and the edge of the other piece is turned down double the width1 and then half the width is turned back again for the fell4 ,the two pieces are pinned or basted together1 with the parts turned down face to face1 and held firmly between the finger and thumb3 the thread is fastened on by pressing the end carefully into the seam with the needle1 and working over it4 ,the stitches should be just deep enough to keep the parts strongly together2 they should also lie in a slanting direction1 at even distances from each other4 ,when the seam is sewn1 the finger should be placed under it1 while the thumb nail flattens it down4 ,turn the work on the other side1 and fell the seam just the same as in hemming4 ,,mantua-,,makers' ,,hemming4 ,this is often used instead of sewing1 for bags and sleeves that have no linings1 or skirts of petticoats1 c41 and the work is prepared as follows4 ,lay the raw edge of one piece a little below that of the other1 then turn the upper edge over the lower1 twice1 as in hemming1 and fell it securely down4 ,,stitching4 ,having observed that your work is quite even1 turn down a piece to stitch to1 count twelve or fourteen threads from the edge1 and draw a thread to stitch upon4 ,in stitching1 take two threads back1 and pass the needle so as to come out from under two before4 ,join on a fresh piece of thread by passing the needle between the edges1 and bringing it out where the last stitch left off4 ,,gathering4 ,observe that the part going to be gathered is cut evenly and straight4 ,divide the piece into half1 and then into quarters1 putting pins at the divisions as marks2 do the same with the piece to which it is to be gathered1 by which means the fulness will be equal4 ,begin about twelve or fourteen threads from the top1 take up three threads on your needle and miss four1 more or less according to the fulness required3 when a quarter is done1 draw the gatherings pretty closely1 and secure the thread by twisting it round a pin2 then stroke the gathers nicely down1 one at a time1 with a large needle1 so as to make them lie closely and evenly together4 ,afterwards1 untwist the thread from the pin1 and loosen the gathers till you have made the quarter gathered1 correspond with the quarter to which it is to be sewn4 ,fasten the thread again firmly to a pin1 and sew the gathers strongly on1 one at a time1 letting the stitches take a slanting direction1 so as to slip between the gathers4 ,,running4 ,the work for running must be prepared by putting the two edges exactly together1 if they are both selvages2 but if they are raw edges and afterwards to be felled1 one raw edge must be turned down once1 and the other laid upon it a few threads from the top4 ,it should be run about six threads below the turned down part4 ,take three threads and leave three1 and back-stitch occasionally1 to keep the work firm4 ,,double ,,gathering ,,or ,,puffing4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d4 ,double gathering or puffing is sometimes used in setting on frills1 and gives a very neat finished appearance2 it is done in the following manner4 ,gather your frill at the top1 in the usual way1 and stroke it strongly down2 then gather it again below the first gathering1 according to the depth of the puffing you wish to make1 about half an inch1 more or less according to fancy1 and sew on the first gathering to the dressing-gown1 frock1 or whatever you wish to trim1 at a distance that corresponds with the width of the puffing3 the second gathering is to be sewn to the edge of the dress1 so that the part between the two gatherings forms a full hem4 ,some people make three gatherings1 and proceed in the same way1 forming the two full hems or puffings4 ,it is usually put on straight1 but sometimes in sewing on1 the hem is drawn obliquely1 or to one side1 which makes a little variety1 and when there are three gatherings1 one hem is drawn to one side1 and the other to the opposite one1 but this requires much exactness to do it equally4 ,,german ,,hemming4 ,german hemming or felling is a neat substitute for sewing1 where it is desirable that the seam should lie very flat2 it is sometimes employed with great advantage for sleeves1 and even in the long seams of shifts4 ,it is quite as strong as the old method of a seam and fell1 and looks better1 as it is all done on the wrong side4 ,turn down the raw edges of both your pieces of cloth once1 7having them both turned down next you17 and lay one below the other1 so that the smooth top of the lower one does not touch the edge of the upper one1 but is just below it1 then hem or fell the lower one to the cloth against which it is laid1 still holding it before you1 as you had prepared it1 which is exactly like hemming upside down4 ,when you have got to the end of your seam1 open your sleeve1 or whatever you are doing1 and lay the upper fold over the lower edge1 which you must then fell neatly down1 and it is completed4 ,,whipping4 ,the edge for whipping should be cut particularly smooth1 and divided into halves and quarters2 the muslin is then rolled very tightly with the left thumb upon the finger1 about ten threads from the edge4 ,the cotton with which you whip should be very strong and even1 and the needle should be stuck in on the outside1 and brought out on the inside1 the needle pointing towards your chest4 ,take the stitches very evenly1 and so as to draw easily4 ,draw the whipping up to the width of the piece to which it is going to be sewn2 pin it down1 and sew it firmly1 holding the whipping towards you1 and letting the stitches lie athwart1 so as to be hidden between the whips4 ,if you stroke whipping with a large pin or needle1 in the same way as in gathering1 it adds much to its neat appearance in setting on1 and makes it more easy to do4 ,,button-,,holes4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,cut the button-hole with a chisel 7or the proper scissors made for that purpose7 by a thread1 the same size as the width across the button4 ,in holding the work1 let the button-hole lie length-wise along the forefinger4 ,begin at the side opposite the thumb farthest from the point of the finger4 ,put the needle in through the wrong side of the hole1 and bring it out five threads down on the right4 ,the stitch is made by putting the needle through the loop of the thread before it is drawn close4 ,observe that you keep your work evenly by the thread1 and do not turn the corners too soon2 the needle should be put in between every two threads1 else the work will not be thick enough4 ,it has a neat effect to stitch all round the button-hole4 ,,herring-,,boning4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h4 ,this is a stitch generally used for flannels and other woollens1 also1 for carpets1 druggets1 window blinds1 c4 when a hem would be thick and clumsy from being turned down twice2 whereas in herring-boning the edge is turned down only once1 and lies flat and more compact4 ,turn the work down once evenly1 first cutting off any woollen fuzz at the raw edge which looks untidy1 and then beginning to work from the left of your piece of work towards the right1 take a stitch of two or three threads close under the raw turned-down edge1 then put in your needle half way up the turned-down part1 and four or five threads towards the right hand1 and make another stitch of three threads2 bring down the needle1 and make another stitch as before under the raw edge1 still working a few threads each time farther to the right hand1 and so on forming a stitch something like the backbone of a fish1 and therefore termed herring-bone4 ,this same stitch done on muslin with fine cord or braid is very ornamental1 and is often used at the tops of hems or bodies of infants' robes4 ,,darning4 8,a stitch in time saves nine40--,,poor ,,richard4 ,the stocking or work should be held across the first and second fingers of the left hand4 ,in beginning to darn1 the needle should be held pointed from the chest4 ,the work should be begun a few threads before the hole1 or even the thin place1 to give a firmer hold to the cotton4 ,take one thread and leave one1 alternately till the row is complete2 afterwards1 point the needle towards the chest1 and take up the intermediate threads which were left before4 ,the cotton must not be drawn tight1 as it is apt to shrink in washing1 therefore a loop should be left at each end4 ,continue darning backwards and forwards till the hole and thin parts are covered1 afterwards begin to darn crosswise1 being particularly careful to avoid splitting the threads or pulling the loops tight4 ,some people make a point of running the feet of new stockings all over1 which is very advisable for men and boys who wear boots1 as it preserves them much longer4 ,there are a variety of stitches in darning1 some of which have a very neat appearance1 among others the following3- ,take up #a thread and leave #b ,take up #b #b ,take up #a #c ,take up #b #d ,take up #c #c ,table linen1 when darned1 looks neater if the work is done in some pattern2 thus1 a diamond or circle looks more tidy than an irregular patch of darning4 ,,on ,,mending ,a ,,crack4 ,in taking up a crack in a stocking1 fasten the thread firmly on1 and then take the two half loops which are next each other on one side of the crack1 upon the needle1 and having drawn the thread through them1 do the same on the other side1 making the half loop1 which was last taken up on either side1 the first of the next stitch4 ,,on ,,taking ,,up ,a ,,ladder4 ,a ladder is caused by the fall or dropping of a stitch1 which it is necessary to pick up as soon as possible1 by putting the needle into the loop that has fallen1 and drawing the bar immediately above through the loop1 thus the bar becomes a loop in its turn1 and the next bar above is in like manner draw through it1 till all are taken up1 when the last loop is well secured and darned over4 ,,on ,,making ,,buttons4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,cover your piece of wire with a square piece of calico1 which you must double over the corners1 and sew firmly in the middle2 afterwards stitch the button round close to the wire1 or else work over the wire the button-hole stitch1 and in the centre1 work a little regular star to set it off4 ,,on ,,making ,,tucks4 ,tucks should be very even2 for this purpose1 have a bit of card on which is notched the depth of each tuck1 and also the space between them4 ,tucks should be run firmly in small regular stitches1 constantly taking a back-stitch as you go on4 ,,marking4 ,in marking1 two threads are generally taken each way4 ,there are three ways in which the needle is passed before the stitch is perfect4 ,one is aslant from you towards the right hand2 the second is straight downwards towards you2 the third is across or aslant from you towards the left hand1 taking care to bring out the needle at that corner of the stitch nearest the one you are going to make4 ,the generality of markers make the first stitch aslant twice over1 to make it clearer before proceeding onwards2 thus1 in ,plate #a1 ,fig4 #b1 the thread1 being brought out at ,a1 passes across to ,b1 and out again at ,a2 again1 across to ,b1 and out at ,c2 then1 aslant to ,d1 and out again at ,b1 ready to proceed to the next stitch4 ,where there are two or three letters to be marked1 the thread should be neatly fastened off at the end of each letter and not carried on from one to the other4 ,two or four threads are left between the letters1 according to the quality of the article to be marked4 ,in linen1 eight threads are generally left4 ,in gentlemen's families1 house linen is either marked with the gentleman's initials1 or else with those of the lady's christian name added to the gentleman's full initials1 his christian name coming first3 thus1 supposing ,edward ,montagu's wife is named ,louisa1 the initials would be ,e4 ,l4 ,m41 afterwards the name of the cloth and the number are marked thus3 ,e4 ,l4 ,m4 ,g4 ,c4 #h 44#cg4 signifying1 ,edward ,louisa ,montagu1 ,glass ,cloth1 ,number #h1 #ahcg4 ,there are many pretty marking patterns for samplers1 flat canvass pincushions1 or needle-books4 ,in noblemen's families1 the marks are surmounted by coronets4 ,there are also two other kinds of marking2 the one is the same stitch as that above described1 but differing in the form of the letters1 which are in writing or ,italian characters2 this may best be done by copying written letters accurately3 the other kind of marking is1 by making the letters perfectly straight1 as in printing1 and instead of the marking stitch1 working them in small oylet holes4 ,in ,plate #a1 ,fig4 #a1 the sampler drawn gives an accurate idea of the canvass1 and the shape of all the letters in the different alphabets4 ,the first alphabet is that in most general use2 the second contains the small letters2 the third is a correct representation of the ,italian characters1 which are much used for marking pocket handkerchiefs and other fine articles of dress2 the fourth and last is quite a fancy stitch1 and rarely employed4 ,the oylet-holes are formed by working in small stitches round each square1 about four stitches in the four corners1 and four intermediate stitches between1 are necessary to form each oylet hole4 ,,piping ,is a neat mode of finishing capes1 sleeves at the wrist1 waistbands1 tops of bodies1 c41 and is sewn on in the following way4 ,cut crosswise strips of silk1 7or whatever other material you are piping with17 sufficiently wide to admit well the cord1 run these strips neatly together1 to make them of a proper length for the piping you want4 ,some people run the silk on the cord first1 before sewing it to the piece of work2 others1 however1 merely lay the cord neatly inside the silk1 which is then placed on the edge of the work to which it is piped1 so that the two raw edges of the strip of silk enclosing the cord should lie on the raw edge of the work2 the three thicknesses are then all firmly run together1 the stitches being made just below the cord4 ,when it is sewn on1 the raw edges are pressed inwards1 so as to make the cord set at the edge4 ,the lining is then neatly put in1 which covers these edges and makes all look tidy4 ,,plaiting4 ,care should be taken that the plaits lie evenly one against another1 and that they are of the same size1 especially in frills1 sleeves1 c4 ,in double plaiting1 the plaits lie both ways1 and look very handsome and full in frills3 it requires great care to do them evenly1 without which they will not look well4 ,,on ,,lining ,,sleeves1 ,,bags1 c4 ,after cutting out the lining exactly the same size as the sleeve1 fold it very carefully1 so as to make the raw edges lie exactly one on the other2 do the same with the sleeve1 taking care to fold the wrong side outwards4 ,place the lining on the sleeve and pin them evenly together2 after which1 run all the four thicknesses strongly down the seam4 ,put your hand in the sleeve1 and turn it inside out1 drawing the lining inside2 the seam is then quite neat1 both inside and outside1 as the stitches lie between the lining and the outer silk4 ,the same should be done with bags1 and any other thing that will admit of it4 ,,on ,,braiding4 ,this work can scarcely come under the head of plain work1 still1 as children's dresses are so much ornamented with it1 a few observations may be useful4 ,the very fine flat braid should be used1 as it looks so much neater than that which is thick2 it is sold in knots4 ,silk braids look well on silk1 merino1 or muslin2 but cotton is the best for jean1 prints1 or stuffs4 ,the pattern should be drawn on silver paper1 which is tacked on the piece of work1 and the braid worked on it with the same coloured sewing silk1 as thread washes white4 ,to sew on silk braid1 you should use the silk drawn out of the braid1 as it is finer and more even1 and will match the colour better than any other you can procure3 cut off1 therefore1 a bit the length of a needleful1 to keep for the purpose of unroving4 ,if you want to take the pattern of a piece of work upon paper1 place some letter paper on the work1 and while holding it firmly1 rub the paper well with half a nutmeg1 which will mark the pattern correctly1 and sufficiently distinct on the paper to admit of its being inked afterwards4 ,two shades of braid sewn close together have a pretty effect4 ,,biassing4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,in biassing1 the first part of the stitch resembles gathering1 and after stroking in down with a large needle or pin1 you lay1 upon the right side of the gathers1 a thread very much thicker than that you are using in your needle2 you then sew over this thread1 taking hold1 at the same time1 of the gathering thread1 and pointing your needle to your chest2 you must be very careful to put your needle between every gather3 the thick thread1 thus worked upon the gathering1 has a very neat effect1 and adds much to its strength2 two or three rows of it1 at short distances from each other1 look very well3 it is particularly suitable for the shoulders and sleeves of dresses1 and for children's saccarines1 pelisses1 c4 ,it is a good plan to bias with sewing and netting silk1 in preference to thread1 as it is much stronger4 ,,gaging4 ,this is very suitable for the fronts of children's dresses1 and the tops of the cuffs of sleeves2 it is done as follows4 ,take up the stitches at regular intervals of half an inch1 for the first row4 ,for the second1 continue doing the same2 letting the needle1 however1 take up the intermediate parts4 ,the third row resembles the first1 and so on4 ,for the purpose of securing the gathers firmly1 work them as follows1 with very strong netting silk4 ,take on your needle the two first gathers1 and the thread on which they run1 pulling your thread firmly through4 ,for the next stitch1 again take two gathers and the thread upon your needle1 letting the first of them be the last gather that was taken up at the former stitch1 so that the work proceeds but by one gather at a time4 ,observe to draw the netting silk as tightly as possible1 so as to make the stitches lie very closely together1 in a slanting position4 ,,honey-,,combing4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #aj1 #aa4 ,this sort of work is much used for the inside of the tops of work-boxes1 and sometimes for the tops and heads of beds2 it is usually done with silk1 satin1 or velvet1 for the former2 and highly-glazed chintz or calico1 for the latter4 ,crease your material in even folds1 taking care to have them very regular1 and of a proper depth to suit the purpose for which it is intended2 with a strong thread1 tack the folds together with long stitches1 so as to make them lie compactly one against another2 then1 with sewing silk of the proper colour1 stitch firmly together1 at moderate equal distances1 the first and second folds3 afterwards1 stitch the second and third folds1 at equal distances1 taking your stitches in the intermediate intervals 7see ,plate #a1 ,fig4 #aj and #aa74 ,the third and fourth folds are only repetitions of the first and second1 and by continuing your work in this way1 the stitches of the alternate rows will accord with each other4 ,when the piece is completed1 and the tacking-thread drawn out1 pull your work open1 and it will form puffings1 in the shape of diamonds1 on the right side4 ,,binding4 ,flannel is generally bound with sarsenet ribbon1 or a kind of thin tape called flannel binding4 ,this is generally put on so as merely to shew a little way over the edge on the right side1 and should be neatly and firmly hemmed down4 ,on the other side1 run the binding down with small neat stitches1 so as to look very tidy on the right side4 ,some people1 in binding flannel1 turn half on the other side of the edge1 but this is not nearly so neat in appearance4 ,,quilting4 ,,plate #a4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac4 ,is generally employed for coverlets1 silk shoes1 cushions1 linings of work-baskets and boxes2 also1 for babies' bonnets1 hoods1 c4 c42 and is well adapted to those purposes for which warmth and softness are essential4 ,it is done in the following manner4 ,lay a piece of flannel1 demet1 or other soft substance1 between the satin 7or other material forming the outside7 and the lining of whatever you are going to make4 ,run it firmly together1 taking care that the stitches go through1 not only the satin1 but the flannel and lining4 ,the running is done in diamonds1 squares1 octagons1 or any other pattern with very small stitches1 in silk the same colour as the material4 ,coverlets are often quilted with patterns of birds1 fishes1 stars1 c4 c4 ,another kind of quilting1 which looks very neat1 is done as follows4 ,baste the piece of work in diamonds1 with very long stitches of thread1 and then1 with your needle1 work a little star at each of the intersections or points of the diamonds1 putting in your needle between the material and the lining1 when the thread is ready to be carried from one star to another1 to conceal the stitches4 ,,making ,,rouleaus4 ,these are used for trimming dresses1 capes1 c41 and are made of satin1 silk1 or velvet1 in the following manner4 ,cut pieces of the material crosswise1 about one or more nails1 and join a sufficient number of them to form the length required2 after which double the strip in two1 on the wrong side1 and run along near the edge4 ,when you have got to the end1 see that your needle is fastened firmly1 with strong thread to it1 and turn your needle inside the roll1 running it through as you would a bodkin1 and1 on pulling it gently out1 it will pull the rouleau inside out1 and make it look neat2 after which1 draw sufficient wool through the rouleau to fill it4 ,,coronation ,,braid4 ,this kind of braid is bought in knots1 and resembles ,fig4 #aj1 ,plate #a4 ,in putting it on frocks1 it may be sewn in various patterns of leaves1 c43 it looks pretty1 and both wears and washes well4 7,see ,plate #e1 ,fig4 #bh1 #bi47 ,,cord ,,sewn ,,on4 ,this is often put on infants' frock bodies1 it looks neat and washes remarkably well4 ,it is sewn on in waves1 diamonds1 vandykes1 or any other pattern4 ,the thread for sewing it on should be fine1 and the stitches very small4 ,,chain ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,it is a kind of ornamental work1 which1 as it is often used in frock bodies for children1 will be here explained2 together with some other fancy stitches1 although they do not strictly come under the head of plain work4 ,chain stitch is done as follows4 ,thread your needle with fine round union cord1 braid1 or bobbin2 tie a knot at the end of it1 and draw the cord through to the right side of your work4 ,let your cord hang loosely in front1 while you stick in your needle1 as in the ,plate1 and bring it out below1 inclining it a little to the left1 passing your needle over your thread as you draw it out1 so as to form a loop4 ,draw out the needle1 taking care not to pull the stitch tightly1 and repeat the same1 putting the needle in a little higher1 and to the right hand of the place where it was last drawn out3 thus each new loop begins within the lower part of the preceding one1 and you produce the effect of a chain4 ,,fancy ,,chain ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,this is a very pretty stitch for ornamenting babies' dresses1 and especially their hats1 and should be worked in netting silk1 silk cord1 or braid4 ,the stitch resembles that of the common chain stitch above mentioned1 excepting that very little is taken up on the needle at a time1 and the stitches made far apart4 ,the stitch may be varied according to whether the needle slants little or much4 ,if it is made to lie quite horizontally before the work1 it becomes button-hole stitch at once4 ,,chain ,,stitch ,,on ,,gathers4 ,this has a remarkably neat effect1 and if done with coloured worsted upon ,holland dresses1 when biassed or gaged1 it will wash and wear well4 ,take up two gathers at a time for each stitch1 always taking one old1 and one new gather on the needle at a time4 ,,fancy ,,bobbin ,,edging4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,this is pretty for the edges of frocks and robings1 and is a very simple stitch1 which wears well4 ,after hemming the edge1 tie a knot at the end of your bobbin1 and draw it through to the right side of the work1 just below the hem4 ,carry the bobbin over the hem1 by sticking in your needle at the wrong side1 bringing it through2 after which1 on drawing the loop to the proper size1 pass your bobbin through it1 and begin the next stitch1 and so on1 forming a succession of loops4 ,,fancy ,,herring-,,boning4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,this stitch resembles that of the common herring-bone1 except that it is worked perpendicularly instead of from left to right1 and the thread is brought round behind the needle1 as represented in ,plate #e1 which gives a greater finish to the stitch4 ,,double ,,herring-,,boning4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,this pattern is too intricate to describe1 farther than by saying it is a kind of double herring-bone on each side4 ,the ,plate gives a tolerably accurate idea of the stitch4 ,as great care is requisite to keep the pattern even1 it is better to run a tacking-thread1 as a guide1 down the middle of it4 ,,the ,,angular ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,this is a neat ornament for capes1 cuffs1 and the skirts of children's pelisses1 and resembles the button-hole stitch1 but is carried angularly from right to left1 to form the pattern4 ,care should be taken to make the pattern of equal width and very even and straight1 as much of its merit depends upon its regularity4 ,,the ,,serpentine ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,this is a peculiarly pretty work1 and much employed for children's dresses4 ,it is worked with the hand1 and sewn on to the material when made4 ,take the cord1 knot it so as to form a loop at one end1 and pass the other end through the loop towards the front1 to form another loop to the right hand2 continue passing the bobbin first through the loop on one side1 and then through the loop on the other1 directing the cord so as to pass from the outer side of the work invariably towards the inner1 or that part next the work4 ,the ,plate will give a clearer representation of this than can be easily done by words4 ,,the ,,horse-,,shoe ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,this stitch is worked from left to right1 as seen in the ,plate1 and is pretty when worked near to the edge of robings1 hems1 c4 ,the ,plate gives so clear a representation of the way to hold the needle and thread1 that no explanation is necessary4 ,it is done with thick loosely twisted cotton or bobbin4 ,,fancy ,,button-,,hole ,,stitch4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,this is very pretty for the fronts of bodies1 also for the bands and shoulder-bits1 and above the broad hems or tucks of frocks4 ,it resembles a very wide button-hole stitch4 ,it washes and wears well4 ,,coral ,,pattern4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,this pattern is particularly suitable for the tops of broad hems1 or the waistbands of children's frocks4 ,it requires great accuracy in the working2 and if attempted by an inexperienced person1 it would be desirable to run lines1 in long stitches1 to determine the middle and outer sides of the pattern4 ,it can be best understood by reference to the ,plate1 merely remarking that the stitch is begun on the left hand1 and continued alternately from left to right1 always pointing the needle towards the centre4 ,,general ,,rules ,,for ,,completing ,,work4 8,the threaded steel ,flies swiftly1 and unfelt the task proceeds40 --,,cowper4 ,in making up dresses1 all openings of pocket holes1 of sleeves near the wrist1 c4 c41 should be very firmly fastened off1 as they are apt to tear4 ,there are two or three modes of making them strong3 one is by working round the pail in button-hole stitch1 and also by making a bar from one side to the other1 by passing the needle backwards and forwards several times1 working the button-hole stitch upon the bar2 a second is by sewing a piece of strong tape upon the hem1 about an inch on each side from the bottom2 and a third way1 which can only be done when the pocket-hole is in a seam1 is by making one side lap over the other considerably1 by which means the slit is not only strengthened1 but it does not gape open1 which always has an untidy appearance4 ,to prevent dresses from opening at the slit below the band1 it is a good plan to extend the gathers1 on one side1 an inch beyond the band1 by joining a piece of strong tape to the end of it1 and sewing the gathers neatly upon it4 ,this piece of tape must be contrived so as to hook or button on to the band on the other side1 so as to lap over the slit1 and thus prevent its opening4 ,in fastening on tapes1 sew firmly in close small stitches round the three outer sides1 and back-stitch across the fourth4 ,in sewing on buttons1 it is best to put the needle in and out1 so as to form a cross-stitch in the centre over and over again1 till firmly fastened4 ,in sewing on the long tapes to the bands of petticoats1 gowns1 c41 it is an excellent plan to make a large button-hole near one end1 through which the tape of the other end is passed1 before brought to tie in front4 ,the gussets of sleeves1 c41 are put in as follows4 ,take the piece intended for the gusset and prove1 by folding it crosswise1 that it is a perfect square2 after which1 it is the best and most durable plan to hem it all round3 next hem the two ends of the sleeve1 and fix on the gusset by sewing one end of the sleeve firmly to one side of the gusset1 and the other end of the sleeve to the next side of the gusset1 immediately round the corner4 ,the easiest mode of ascertaining which sides of the gusset are joined to the sleeve1 is by folding the gusset corner-wise1 and the two sides that lie one above the other are sewn to the two ends of the sleeve1 and the other two sides1 lying also one above the other1 form that part of the sleeve fastened to the body of the dress4 ,sometimes the gusset is cut out much smaller than the ends of the sleeve1 especially for baby clothes1 in which case the sides of the gusset forming the part fastened to the skirt1 ought to be still placed so as to continue in a line with those sides of the sleeve sewn on to the skirt4 ,that part of the ends of the sleeve which is longer than the gusset should be sewn together4 ,some sleeves are cut with the gussets in one length1 so that it is only necessary to turn up the one corner of the piece1 like a half handkerchief1 so as to make it lie upon the side of the strip which is folded just in half1 and when the second end is sewn to that part which meets it1 the sleeve is formed1 and only requires hemming at the bottom to complete it1 before putting it in4 ,in setting a long sleeve1 such as a shirt or night-gown sleeve1 into a wristband1 let the slit be sufficiently long to admit of the wristband being laid open and easily ironed4 ,the gathers at the top of the sleeve should be set into a space exactly the same as the wristband1 to make it lie flat also4 ,these little attentions are a great assistance to the washerwoman4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,a ,,few ,,observations ,,on ,,purchasing ,,goods4 8,many have been ruined by buying good pennyworths40 --,,poor ,,richard4 ,it is very bad economy to purchase1 for articles of clothing1 cheap bargains4 ,they generally consist of damaged goods1 or are otherwise inferior in their quality1 as it stands to reason that no mercer would feel inclined to sell his stock at a lower rate than its worth4 ,the only parts of dress which it may be sometimes advisable to purchase at a cheap rate1 are gloves1 ribbons1 and such articles as are easily soiled long before being worn out1 and cannot well be cleaned3 in large towns and dirty neighbourhoods they are soon discoloured1 and therefore their durability is of little consequence4 ,linens1 calicoes1 woollens1 prints1 c41 should be carefully chosen from the best1 as they are in constant wash and wear1 and would soon become worn and threadbare if not good and strong4 ,two sets of good linen will wear out three or four sets of inferior1 which1 when the expense of making up is considered1 becomes1 in its turn1 far more expensive1 besides the extra trouble and time1 both of which are well worth saving4 ,observe that the cloth is the proper width for the articles wanted1 so as to cut out to the best advantage4 ,much waste may arise from its being one nail too wide or too narrow4 ,take notice that the selvages1 and also the threads1 are even and good both ways4 ,,calico4 ,observe that it is free from dress1 which is a preparation of lime employed by the manufacturers to make it of a better colour1 as1 if 7as is often the case7 the dressing is too high in proportion to the strength of the threads1 it becomes rotten1 tears1 and wears badly1 and after washing1 is poor and thin1 like canvass2 choose your calico1 therefore1 undressed1 for then you can more exactly judge of its quality and strength4 ,it should be soft1 without specks1 and the threads and selvages even4 ,it is often cheaper to buy the whole piece1 if much is wanted1 as a small allowance is made per yard4 ,if a small quantity is wanted for a baby's caps1 shirts1 c41 it is often good economy to purchase remnants1 fencings1 or felts1 by which means you sometimes get the best qualities for very low prices4 ,calico runs of various widths and qualities3 the unbleached1 or grey1 is the best for shifts1 boys' shirts1 c41 for the lower orders1 being warmer and stronger than the white4 ,the following are the useful widths1 with the general prices at the present time1 though1 of course1 they are constantly varying4 ,unbleached calico1 from #ac nails wide to #b yards #d nails1 price from #d;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ,fine white calico for caps1 aprons1 c41 from #ab nails upwards to #a yard1 price from #d;d4 upwards4 ,stout calico1 from #ad nails upwards to #c yards wide1 price from #h;d4 to #cs4 ,,linen4 ,the ,suffolk hemp is considered the best4 ,the threads should be particularly even4 ,the useful widths are from #ac nails to #af1 for shirting4 ,the common linen is sometimes as low as #h;d4 or #i;d4 per yard1 and the best at #bs4 #i;d4 or #cs4 ,linen should be scalded before it is cut out and made up1 as it is too stiff to allow of its being sewn with ease4 ,,lawn4 ,lawn is merely a finer quality of linen1 and is sometimes used for the fronts of gentlemen's shirts1 also for babies' night-caps1 shirts1 frilling1 c4 ,its width varies from #ac nails upwards1 and the price from about #ds4 to #hs4 ,,cambric4 ,cambric is a finer sort of lawn4 ,its width is about three-quarters of a yard1 and the price from #ds4 to #abs4 ,,muslin ,,checks4 ,the small check which is used for caps generally wears the best4 ,observe that the thin places between the checks are good1 and the threads even4 ,they are generally #a yard wide1 and from #i;d4 to #bj;d4 or #bs4 per yard4 ,,blue ,,checks4 ,this is very serviceable for aprons1 and should be entirely linen1 if wanted to wear well4 ,it runs from #a yard wide to #a yard1 and is from #c;d4 to #af;d4 per yard4 ,the cotton check answers very well for children's pinbefores1 though not nearly so durable as the other4 ,it is of various widths1 and from #f;d4 to #as4 per yard4 ,,prints1 ,,chintzes1 ,,and ,,ginghams4 ,these often wash very badly3 if1 therefore1 you are buying a doubtful colour1 it would be advisable to beg a piece as a pattern1 and wash half of it1 which1 when compared with the other half1 will shew at once whether the colours are fixed or not4 ,they are better when the pattern is the same on both sides4 ,dark and light blue1 lilac1 buff1 bright brown1 red1 and pink are good wearing colours4 ,green1 chocolate1 and violet are very fading colours4 ,they vary in price from #c;d4 to #aj;d41 or even #as4 ,the usual width for gowns is #aa nails4 ,the width sold for aprons is #ad nails4 ,,flannels4 ,the ,welsh is far superior to the ,lancashire1 and both washes and wears better2 the latter is1 however1 cheaper4 ,it is generally of a yellowish colour1 while the ,welsh is more of a blue grey4 ,purchasing large quantities at the fairs at ,welsh-,pool1 ,newtown1 and other ,welsh markets1 is good economy1 as several yards are often given in to the hundred4 ,the common flannels for petticoats are #i;d4 to #ad;d4 per yard1 and the finer upwards1 to #bs4 or #cs4 #h;d43 they vary in width from #i nails to #af4 ,new flannel should be plunged in scalding water1 and hung out to dry without wringing4 ,,cloth4 ,cloth should be smooth1 with a good nap4 ,,stuffs4 ,observe that they are evenly dyed1 as they are often dashed4 ,hold them up to the light1 that you may better judge of their quality4 ,the black dye is apt to decay the stuff4 ,brown and dark green are particularly good wearing colours4 ,width from and yard1 upwards4 ,price from #h;d4 to #bs4 ,,crape4 ,crape is often dashed and spotted1 as it is a difficult article to take dye evenly4 ,have it spread over white before buying it1 when you can more easily detect blemishes4 ,the width is #a yard1 and the price #bs4 to #ds4 #f;d4 ,,satin4 ,it should be soft and thick1 unless for trimming caps1 when a poorer kind may be used4 ,when wanted for trimmings1 satin should be cut crosswise4--7,see the end of ,chapter ,,iii47 ,it is from yard to #aj nails wide1 and from #bs4 #f;d4 to #gs4 #f;d4 ,,silks4 ,should not be too stiff1 thin1 or papery1 as they are apt to tear or slit in the plaits and folds4 ,see that they are soft1 without specks or stains2 and1 as silk dresses turn well1 and even dye afterwards1 it would be advisable to have no wrong side--that is1 the pattern equally good on both sides4 ,they are generally yard wide1 though black silk of #a yard in width can be bought for aprons4 ,in cheap silks1 a kind of camel's hair is frequently woven to make them appear richer and thicker to the touch1 but this is highly injurious to the silk1 as it causes it to wear very ill1 and cut in all the folds and creases4 ,the way to detect the existence of camel hair in silks1 is to take a little bit in the hand and pull it gently cross-way1 and if there be any camel hair interwoven with the silk it will spring back as if elastic1 making a soft kind of whistling sound4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,general ,,rules ,,for ,,cutting ,,out4 8,waste not1 want not40 8,cut your coat according to your cloth40 ,articles of clothing are measured by cloth measure4 #b inches make #a nail4 #d nails -- #a quarter4 #d quarters -- #a yard4 #e -- -- #a ,english ell4 #f -- -- #a ,french ell4 ,all linens1 calicoes1 c41 to be washed before cut out4 ,all linens1 including lawn1 cambric1 and ,holland1 should be cut by the thread4 ,all calicoes1 muslins1 and flannels will tear1 though the former1 unless very stout1 pull a good deal awry4 ,all small articles1 as gussets1 should be cut1 in preference to being torn4 ,cutting out whole sets of things together often prevents much waste2 hence it is better to cut out six or twelve shirts at once1 than only one at a time4 ,skirts1 sleeves1 wristbands1 shoulder-straps1 collars1 waistbands1 and every thing liable to be stretched in wearing1 to be cut selvage-wise4 ,frills1 flounces1 and pieces fulled between bands1 are usually cut the width way4 ,frills for caps are generally twice as long as the article they are to be frilled upon2 three times is very full1 and is sometimes used for neck frills4 ,linings of hats1 bonnets1 fronts1 and backs of gowns1 tippets1 most women's collars1 and every thing intended to set well and closely1 of an irregular shape or surface1 to be cut crosswise4 ,pipings and linings to broad hems always to be cut crosswise4 ,in cutting crosswise1 first fold the end of the piece like a half-handkerchief1 so as to lay the raw edge evenly against the selvage side1 and cut off the half square1 from which cut the strips for piping1 c4 ,to cut off a yard crosswise1 measure a yard along each of the selvage sides1 7after the half square has been cut off7 crease it slantingly across1 and cut it4 ,satins1 velvets1 and some silks1 may be purchased cut the cross way1 as well as the straight4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,the ,,work-,,box4 8,your thimble gone8 ,your scissors1 where are they8 ,your needles1 pins1 your thread1 and tapes all lost4 ,your housewife here1 and there your work-bag tost40 --,,poems4 ,the next thing which will come under our observation is the work-box1 or basket1 and of this it may be useful to say a few words1 as much of the comfort of a good workwoman depends on the choice and arrangement of her tools 7if they may be so termed7 and materials4 ,a work-box1 or basket1 should be large enough to hold a moderate supply of work and all its requisites1 without being of such a size as to be inconvenient to carry about1 or lift with ease4 ,there should be in it divisions or partitions1 as they assist in keeping it in order2 but some persons are apt to run into the extreme of over-partitioning their boxes1 which defeats its own purpose and becomes troublesome3 this should be carefully avoided4 ,a work-box should contain six or eight of the useful sized white reel sewing cottons1 black cotton1 and silks1 white1 black1 and coloured1 both round and for darning2 a few useful tapes1 bobbin1 galloon1 buttons of all kinds1 including thread1 pearl1 metal1 and black2 also1 hooks and eyes4 ,an ample needle-book1 containing a page of kerseymere for each sized needle1 not omitting the darning1 glove1 stay1 and worsted or carpet needles4 ,there are various kinds of scissors2 the most useful are1 ,a large pair1 for cutting out linen2 ,a medium size1 for common use2 ,a small pair with rounded points2 ,a smaller pair with sharper points1 for cutting out muslin work1 c42 ,lace scissors with a flat knob at one of the points2 ,button-hole scissors4 ,a pincushion1 an emery cushion1 a waxen reel for strengthening thread1 a stiletto1 bodkins1 a thimble1 a small knife1 and a yard measure1 made like a carpenter's foot rule1 only with nails instead of inches marked upon it3 for a further description of it1 see explanation to ,plate #bd4 ,these complete the list of things necessary for a good workwoman2 other things1 as shield1 tweezers1 which are often added1 may be considered as superfluities4 ,it is a good plan to fit up a square basket for the use of each working servant in the house1 as for instance1 the lady's-maid1 the nurse1 the housemaid1 the laundry-maid4 ,these baskets should vary sufficiently in form and size to be easily distinguished one from the other2 the kind usually sold for babies' baskets is the most convenient1 being large enough to hold plenty of work1 and yet shallow1 so as easily to search for things at the bottom4 ,to these baskets should belong1 a small tin box for buttons1 hooks and eyes1 bodkins1 c42 a large pair of scissors and sheath tied to each other1 and fastened by a long string to the handle of the basket4 ,a heavy pincushion1 formed of a brick or piece of iron or lead1 placed in a bag full of bran1 padded with flannel1 and covered over with print or calico4 ,a large needle-book4 ,a bag to contain tapes1 silks1 darning cottons1 c4 ,it is advisable to mark the scissors sheath1 needle-book1 pincushion1 bag1 and even basket1 with the initial of the maid by whom it is used1 as ,h4 ,b4 for housemaid's basket4 ,a rag bag is a desirable thing to have hung up in some conspicuous part of the house1 into which all odd bits1 and even shreds1 of calico1 print1 linen1 muslin1 c4 should be put2 as they are useful to come in when a gusset or chin-stay1 or other small article is wanting4 ,those bits too small for this purpose may still be used by school children1 for practising stitches of needle-work upon2 or1 at all events1 may be disposed of to the rag merchants1 and thus prove of some value at last4 ,another family bag1 for the purpose of containing stray tapes1 or shoe strings1 hooks1 eyes1 odd buttons1 pieces of silk1 or bits of ribbon1 may be kept with advantage2 especially where there is a large family of children1 whose demands for these small articles are daily and constant4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,on ,,baby-,,linen1 ,,with ,,scales ,,for ,,clothes ,,of ,,older ,,children4 8,the mother1 wi' her needle and her shears1 ,gars auld claes look amaist as weel's the new40 --,,burns4 ,the following articles are necessary to be prepared for an infant's first dress1 and are equally applicable 7with some exceptions7 to the poor as well as the rich1 though the quality of the materials1 of course1 must differ4 ,the average number of each article usually provided by ladies for an infant's wardrobe1 may here be introduced with propriety1 though they must vary according to circumstances4 ,persons to whom economy is a great object may find a much smaller stock answer as well1 if they are able to send the linen often to the wash4 ,shirts #ab to #ah ,plate #b ,fig4 #bc ,flannel bands #b-d -- #c -- #ab ,flannel caps #b-c -- #b -- #h ,night-caps #f-ab -- #b -- #d ,day-caps #c-f -- #b ,napkins 7dozens of7 #d-f -- #c -- #aa ,pilchers #d-f -- #c -- #aj ,pinafores #f-ab -- #c -- #ah ,bedgowns #d-f -- #c -- #af ,first day-gowns #c-d -- #c -- #ad ,night-flannels #c-d -- #c -- #a1 #b ,day-flannels #c-d -- #c -- #c ,flannel cloak #a-b -- #d -- #ai1 #bd ,flannel shawl #b-c ,robes #d-f -- #d -- #b to #h ,petticoats #d-f -- #d -- #a ,socks #d-h ,hood #a -- #d -- #bi ,cloak or pelisse #a -- #d -- #bj1 #ba1 #bc ,also1 the following et ceteras3-- ,one receiver2 #a basket-cover2 #a flannel1 and #a ,india rubber apron2 #f nursery soft towels2 #a cradle1 bassinette1 or crib-cover1 and bedding2 #a pincushion4 ,,lending ,,linen ,,for ,,the ,,poor4 ,linen is often lent by ladies to the poor1 at their confinements1 in bags1 boxes1 or baskets1 containing the following articles3-- ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,,woman4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,pl4 ,fig4 #b shifts #f #b #b night jackets #h #b #b caps #i #b or #bj #a flannel petticoat #h #i #a flannel gown 7or shawl7 #aj #d #a pair of sheets #a roll of flannel1 #d breadths long1 and yard deep ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,,baby4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,pl4 ,fig4 #c shirts #b #bg #c caps #b #d #a flannel cap #b #h #a flannel band #c #ab #c night-gowns #c #ab #b flannel gowns #c #f #ab napkins #c #d #b soft towels #c #aa ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,also1 may be added1 a baby's crockery bottle1 bed-pan1 dust-bag1 pair of blankets1 bottle of castor oil1 sal volatile1 with proper directions pasted on1 some large pins1 strong thread1 and a few books4 ,the most convenient kind of basket for containing these articles of clothing1 is a light wicker-work one1 about #bj inches long1 #ab inches wide1 and #bj inches high4 ,this size holds two folded sheets1 side by side1 at the bottom1 and all the rest above4 ,it should have two handles1 sufficiently high to allow of the lid opening easily4 7,see ,plate #e1 ,fig4 #ad47 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,observations4 ,baby-linen should be cut out with great exactness and precision1 and made up with the most scrupulous neatness4 ,in all the patterns1 an eye should be had to their being contrived so as to put on with the greatest comfort and ease to the infant1 and made to button or tie readily4 ,no hard seams1 buttons1 or runners should come in contact with their tender skin1 therefore all strings should be made to tie on the outside4 ,to each head a scale is affixed1 by which the same patterns may be cut out of various sizes1 in proper proportions1 to suit children of different ages4 ,there are three lengths for the skirts of baby-linen2 the first and longest1 for the rich1 is generally #ah nails1 and for the poor1 #af2 the second size1 commonly called three-quarters1 is about #ae nails for the rich1 and #ac for the poor2 the third size1 or short coats1 is about half a yard4 ,to prevent mistakes1 observe1 that on all occasions1 the number of nails marked on the ,plate1 refers to the size of the article when cut out1 and not when made up4 ,,caps ,are generally made of soft calico1 or checked muslin1 with muslin frills1 for the poor1 and of fine lawn or cambric1 with cambric frills or lace borders for the higher classes4 ,babies' caps1 of whatever size they may be1 are generally cut so as to form a square when they are doubled1 after allowing for runners1 c4 ,,foundling ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ---------------- ,baby's #ast size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 in4 ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #af 44 #j ,quantity required for twelve caps #a 44 #b 44 #j ,width of cap #d 44 #j ,length of cap down to the selvage #f 44 #j ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a 44 #j ,depth of slit into the cap #a 44 #j ,depth in front to be turned back #a 44 #j ,depth of frill #a ,length of frill #a 44 #aj 44 #j ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ---------------- ,child of #b years4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #ac or #ah nls4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,quantity required for twelve caps #a yd4 #ab nls4 #a yd4 #e nls4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,width of cap #d nails ,length of cap down to the selvage #g do4 ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a do4 ,depth of slit into the cap #a do4 ,depth in front to be turned back #a do4 ,depth of frill do4 ,length of frill #b yards ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ---------------- ,child of #d years4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 in4 ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #ae 44 #j ,quantity required for twelve caps #b 44 #j 44 #j ,width of cap #e 44 #j ,length of cap down to the selvage #h #j ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a #j ,depth of slit into the cap #a #j ,depth in front to be turned back #a #j ,depth of frill #j ,length of frill #b #j #j ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,,baby',s ,,first ,,size4 ,choose your calico soft and fine1 of #ab or #af nails wide1 so as to enable you to cut exactly three or four caps in the width1 the depth of the cap1 from front to back1 being #d nails2 the whole length1 from ear to ear1 is #f nails1 which you must measure down the selvage-way of the cloth 7see ,fig4 #b74 ,one yard and #b nails will cut into twelve caps1 if the calico is #af nails wide4 ,when you have divided your calico into pieces for caps1 cut them out as follows3-- ,take one piece1 and fold the edge backwards one nail down the long side1 and then1 by doubling the cap in half the other way1 it should form a square 7,fig4 #a73 the nail thus doubled back1 7see ,fig4 #c1 ,a upon ,b71 is to be hemmed down neatly1 and a runner formed for a bobbin 7see ,fig4 #d1 ,t74 ,the corners1 by the ears1 are rounded off 7see ,fig4 #d1 ,s71 and another runner formed all round the edge4 7,observe1 in all the ,plates the letter ,d denotes the folded1 or doubled part of the material47 ,the back is shaped by first measuring one nail from the bottom 7see ,fig4 #c1 ,d ,d71 and cutting into the cap one nail 7,fig4 #c1 ,d ,e71 taking care to cut it very evenly by a thread3 afterwards slope off the crown1 above the slit1 in a semi-circular form 7,fig4 #c1 ,e74 ,the cap is made up by neatly felling and back-stitching the seam from ,d to ,d1 ,fig4 #c1 and gathering the semi-circular part into the straight piece1 ,e ,d1 and felling it over4 ,a strip of calico is often neatly sewn on the inside1 over the gathers1 to make them set softer to the child's head1 and is called a back-stay4 ,these strips1 together with the chin-stays1 should be cut selvage-wise of the cloth4 ,a chin-stay is three nails long1 and half a nail wide1 therefore cut off three nails from down the selvage1 and then divide from this piece as many chin-stays as are wanted2 afterwards cut the back-stays1 which are only two and a half nails long1 and a quarter of a nail wide4 ,the chin-stay should be neatly sewn up the whole length1 with a small button-hole at one end2 they are generally sewn on at the left corner of the cap1 and the button on the right4 ,some persons prefer having two buttons sewn on the cap1 one at each ear1 and the stay made with two button-holes1 so as easily to be changed and washed1 without changing the cap also1 as babies are apt to wet them1 which makes them hard and rough to the chin4 ,the frills should be cut width-wise of the muslin2 the strips should be one inch wide4 ,the length is generally determined by the width of the muslin1 and is from a breadth and a half to two breadths1 so as to prevent waste as much as possible4 ,for a cap this size1 about a yard and ten nails length of frilling is sufficient4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #b4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bh ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #bf ,fig #bg ,fig #bi ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #cj ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,,another ,,child',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f4 ,,scale ,,for ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ---------------- ,first size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #ae ,quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps #a #b ,width of cap #c ,length along the selvage #f ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a ,depth of the slit into the cap #a ,depth of frill #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ---------------- ,child of #b yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #ag ,quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps #a #e ,width of cap #d ,length along the selvage #g ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a ,depth of the slit into the cap #a ,depth of frill ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ---------------- ,child of #g yrs4 and upwards4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,width of calico1 to cut to the best advantage #ad ,quantity of calico required to cut twelve caps #b #j ,width of cap #d ,length along the selvage #h ,distance from the bottom to the slit behind #a ,depth of the slit into the cap #a ,depth of frill ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,infant',s ,,first ,,size4 ,this sort will answer for either day or night-cap1 and1 when nicely made1 looks neat and pretty4 ,the calico should1 if possible1 be #ae nails wide1 to allow of exactly four caps being cut in the width1 to prevent waste1 as these caps are to be #c nails wide3 should any waste arise1 it will1 however1 come in for chin-stays1 c4 ,the cap is #f nails long4 ,double the piece in half1 and it will form a square1 by allowing the of a nail for the runners in front4 ,measure one nail behind from the bottom1 ,s ,s1 and slit into the cap one nail1 ,s ,p4 ,slope off the crown in a semi-circular form1 ,p ,q4 ,in making up the cap1 make three or four runners at regular intervals1 ,z ,z1 and a neat hem all round1 to admit of bobbins4 ,the semi-circular part1 ,p ,q1 is gathered into the straight part1 ,p ,s1 and neatly felled over1 the seam1 ,s ,s1 being previously sewn up4 ,hem the back-stay inside the gathers1 and put on the chin-stay and frill4 ,,child',s ,,flannel ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h4 ,,scale ,,for ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,child ,child ---------------- ,first of of size4 #c yrs4#f yrs4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,nails4,nails4,nails4 ,width of cap1 cut in width of cloth #c #c #d ,length cut down the selvage #g #h #i ,distance at the bottom to the slit behind #a #a #a ,length of slit #a #a #a ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,,infant',s ,,first ,,size4 ,these caps are of use after washing an infant's head1 to prevent its taking cold1 till its hair is sufficiently dry to put on its usual cap4 ,choose very soft fine ,welsh flannel1 of #ae nails wide1 so as to cut five caps in the width1 of #c nails each4 ,let them be #g nails long1 so as to come well over the ears1 and admit of shrinking in washing4 ,fold the pieces in half1 measure at the back #a nails from the bottom1 ,s ,t1 and slit into the cap1 ,t ,a4 ,slope off the crown from ,c to ,d4 ,in making them up1 they should be neatly hemmed1 and the hem run at the edge with very fine thread1 to make it lie flat1 or else herring-boned with very small stitches4 ,ladies generally have these caps bound with white sarsenet ribbon 7see explanation of binding1 page #g74 ,the back ought to be herring-boned with very small regular stitches1 and the circular part1 ,c ,d1 plaited and herring-boned into the straight part1 ,a ,t1 and a piece of fine calico or sarsenet ribbon hemmed inside1 over the plaits4 ,two runners1 or string cases 7,fig4 #h1 ,f ,g71 are then made by hemming neatly two bits of soft tape or sarsenet inside1 at proper distances4 ,the one marked ,g not to be carried lower down on each side than ,h1 which is nearly opposite the slit at the back4 ,all the tapes are tied outside1 and the tape-holes neatly worked round in button-hole stitch4 ,two tapes for strings4 ,,infant',s ,,day-,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj1 #aa4 ,no scale necessary1 as this shape is generally worn only by infants4 ,,infant',s ,,first ,,size4 ,this shape is the most suitable for a day-cap for the higher classes1 and is generally made of worked cambric or spotted lace4 ,the cap is #h nails long1 to be cut down the selvage1 and #b nails wide2 your material would1 therefore1 cut to the best advantage if #ae nails wide1 to admit of six caps being cut in the width4 ,the crown or circular piece is #a nail across when hemmed1 therefore1 cut it as much larger as will allow for the turning down4 ,it is finished as follows3 make the runners and hem in front very small and firm1 either at regular distances from each other1 or otherwise1 according to fancy4 ,sew up the back1 ,h1 and make a small neat hem at the bottom1 ,j ,k1 to admit another bobbin2 afterwards1 whip the top1 ,l ,m1 having previously with pins divided it into quarters4 ,hem the circular piece and crease it into four also1 and gather the cap into the crown1 drawing the whipping evenly1 and making each quarter correspond4 ,fig4 #aa is the same shape1 but more ornamented1 having a worked crown1 and made of spotted cambric4 ,these caps look very pretty with a white or delicate blue or pink satin or silk inner cap1 to set off the work4 ,a piece of insertion-work is also put between the runners in front1 which adds to the lightness of their appearance4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac4 ,this is much used by the poor1 and is easily made and as easily washed4 ,take of the material a piece #f nails down the selvage1 and #c nails wide4 ,double it1 letting ,d be the doubled part4 ,sew up the back from ,a to ,c1 leaving a small hole or button-hole at the top1 ,c2 make a runner all round the front and behind1 at half a nail's distance from the edge1 which is hemmed with a very narrow hem to form a frill3 also1 lay in a runner from ,e to ,f2 next1 sew a bobbin at ,b1 letting one end of the string hang outside1 and the other1 being pulled through the seam1 remains inside the cap4 ,this end is carried up and brought out through the hole at ,c 7see the dotted line in the ,plate which represents the top inside72 when worn1 the tapes1 on being tied together at ,b1 draw up the cap into shape1 and if neatly arranged and pulled out with the fingers1 it looks very neat and pretty4 7,see ,fig4 #ac47 ,some put a loop of bobbin inside at ,b1 which1 on being brought out through ,c1 fastens to a button at ,b1 on the outside4 ,,the ,,full ,,french ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #ad1 #ae1 #af4 ,this is exceedingly pretty1 but is rather troublesome to get up at the wash1 and sometimes requires unpicking to be neatly done4 ,take a piece of cambric #aj nails wide width-way1 and #a deep selvage-wise 7see ,fig4 #ae74 ,take another piece1 #f nails long selvage-wise and #a wide 7see ,fig4 #af74 ,the latter piece is that part in which runners are made to admit of bobbins4 ,a crown of #a nail across is then cut1 to which the long strip 7,fig4 #ae7 is evenly fulled all round with a piece of lace or edging let in all round4 ,the other side is fulled to the front of the cap1 and the border being put on1 the whole is completed4 ,,child',s ,,horse-,,shoe ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah1 #ai4 ,,scale ,,for ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,first ,second ---------------- size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,nails4 ,yds4 nls4 ,proper width of material to cut to best advantage #ae #ab ,how much wanted for twelve caps #ad #a #ab ,length of cap down the selvage #f #h ,depth of cap cut in the width of material #b #c ,quantity sloped off at ,m ,length of horse-shoe crown #b #b ,width of ditto #a #a ,at what distance from the top begin to slope off ,to how much at the bottom1 when doubled it is to be sloped off ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,,explanation ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,size4 ,this is commonly called the horse-shoe cap1 from the resemblance of the crown in shape to a horse-shoe4 ,the length of the cap down the selvage is #f nails1 and the width #b nails4 ,double it1 7see ,fig4 #ah1 ,d being the double part17 and slope at the top of the front1 ,l1 to the back1 ,m4 ,the distance from ,m to ,o is #b nails1 therefore1 half a nail is thus sloped off4 ,for the horse-shoe or crown 7,fig4 #ag71 cut a piece #b nails long and #a wide2 fold it length-wise in half1 and half a nail from the top1 begin to round off the corner towards ,c1 to form the horse-shoe2 then measure off at the bottom of the piece1 while still doubled1 a quarter of a nail1 which cut off from ,a to ,b1 curving it a little to give it a prettier shape4 ,the cap is made up with two or three runners in front3 the head-piece is put into the crown1 the gathers to be rather fulled at ,b 7,fig4 #ai71 and nearly1 if not quite1 plain from ,d to ,d4 ,the frilling is one inch deep4 ,,infant',s ,,french ,,cap4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba4 ,,first ,,size4 ,this shape is only used for infants1 therefore1 a scale is unnecessary4 ,it is very pretty1 though but little worn1 and never used for the poor4 ,the cap is #h nails long down the selvage1 and #b wide4 ,after doubling it in half1 fold it again from ,a to ,a1 and then from ,a to ,b2 shape a quarter of a nail off the corners1 in a semi-circular form4 ,in the front1 ,d1 measure #c nails1 and cut off the #a nail1 taking care to cut by the thread1 in an upright direction1 for the distance of #a nail1 7,p ,g17 and then slope it off in a corner1 to half a nail below the top4 ,in making it up1 sew up the back neatly1 and full the cap very equally into the crown1 which must be one nail across1 when hemmed4 ,three or more runners in front1 and double frills1 complete the cap4 ,ribbon chin-strings to draw through loops on each side1 on account of washing4 ,,cockades1 ,,rosettes1 c4 ,a few words on the rosettes and bows usually put on children's caps1 hats1 and bonnets1 may not be unacceptable4 ,there are several kinds of these bows1 of which the following are the principal4 ,a cockade for an infant boy's cap or hat4 ,this is made of narrow white satin ribbon1 sewn on a small circle of buckram1 which should be about the size of half-a-crown4 ,begin at the outer edge of the buckram1 and sew the ribbon on in small loops or bows1 round and round1 until you fill it quite up to the centre4 ,lace cockade for a boy4 ,this is often made of some costly kind of lace1 generally ,valenciennes1 and requires four yards4 ,it should be whipped at the edge1 and sewn on to a piece of buckram or stiff muslin1 beginning at the outer edge of it4 ,when intended for a girl1 it is called a rosette1 and instead of being round1 it is an oval or long shape1 and looks like several frillings of lace sewn together1 perhaps #a nail long4 ,it is made in the same way as the cockade4 ,a pretty and less expensive lace cockade or rosette1 may be made by sewing edging on each side of a broad piece of net1 gathering the net in the middle and running it upon a buckram circle or oval beginning in the centre of it and working to the edge1 making the lace stand as full and close as possible4 ,infants' hats and bonnets have pretty trimmings of satin cut the cross way1 and about #a or #b nails broad1 on a buckram foundation1 either round for a cockade1 or oval for a rosette2 they are merely gathered at one edge1 and sewn on the buckram1 as described above1 beginning in the centre4 ,being cut the cross way prevents the outer edge roving out easily4 ,a simple little bow for a bonnet1 or to fasten the neck of a dress or pelisse1 may be made as follows4 ,cut off a piece of ribbon #b nails long1 and plait or gather it up in the middle2 this is for the ends3 take another piece #c or nearly #d nails long1 gather it up in the centre1 and turn the two ends of it underneath1 to the middle1 gathering them up also1 thus forming two bows2 lay these bows upon the first piece1 and sew them together in the centre1 with strong thread3 to conceal the gathering1 fold a small piece of the ribbon very narrow1 and tie or sew it round the middle of the bow1 as if to hold it together2 this finishes it neatly4 ,,infants' ,,open ,,shirts4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #bb1 #bc1 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,infants' shirts are generally made of soft calico for the poor1 and very fine lawn or cambric1 for the higher classes4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ---------------- ,small size4,large size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material1 to cut out to best advantage #ae #af ,quantity requisite for twenty-four shirts #e #ac #f #aj ,depth of shirt to be cut in the width #e #e ,length of shirt to be cut down the selvage #aj #aa ,length of sleeve to be cut down the selvage #a #a ,width of sleeve #b #c ,gusset bare nail4 full nail4 ,slit down for the arm-hole #a #a ,space for shoulder ,slit for flaps full nail4 full nail4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,either of the above sizes is very good for babies' first shirts4 ,the small size fits the best for the first five or six weeks after the infant's birth1 but with a large baby would soon be too small2 the second size1 therefore1 though rather too large to begin with1 is eventually the most useful4 ,as it is advisable to avoid waste as much as possible1 the width of the material would best determine the size1 taking care1 however1 that it does not exceed the one1 or be smaller than the other of the above scales4 ,in cutting out #bd shirts 7see ,plate #b1 ,fig4 #bb71 cut eight lengths of #aj nails for the skirts 7see ,a71 eight lengths of #a nails for sleeves 7see ,b71 and three lengths of #a nail 7see ,c7 for gussets4 ,in cutting out the first size1 choose your calico of exactly #ae nails1 to admit of three shirts being cut in the width1 of #e nails long each4 ,the width of the shirt down the selvage is #aj nails4 ,fold the shirt in half1 and then double it again1 so as to fold it in quarters 7,fig4 #bg71 cut a slit down the two doubled parts in front for the arm-holes 7see ,o ,q72 take care that you do not cut your arm-holes at the wrong end of the doubled part1 they should be slit at the end where there are two folded parts to slit down3 make them #a nails deep1 then leave a full three-quarters of a nail for the shoulder 7see ,o ,b71 and slit down a full nail to form the bosom and back flaps 7see ,b ,d74 ,the sleeves are #a nails long1 to be cut down the selvage1 and #b nails wide1 so that three pairs will cut exactly in the width of the calico1 if #ae nails wide4 ,the gussets are a bare nail square2 about eight pairs will cut in the width4 ,fig4 #bf is the appearance of the skirt after being cut out1 when half opened1 so as to be doubled once4 ,in making a shirt1 hem it neatly with a very narrow hem1 unless there is a selvage at the bottom3 hem1 also1 the two sides and the flaps1 taking care to do the last properly1 so as when falling over1 to lie the right side outwards4 ,two narrow tape strings are sewn to the corners of the middle flap1 #g nails long4 ,the shoulders are sewn and felled with very narrow seams2 the gussets are then sewn on the sleeves1 which are very neatly hemmed4 ,the sleeve is set into the shirt1 and fulled at the top in neat and very small gathers4 ,all the seams should lie particularly flat1 and be as narrow as you can make them4 ,,infant',s ,,second ,,or ,,close ,,shirt4 ,,plate #b4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh1 #bi1 #cj4 ,when infants are about nine months old1 they generally leave off using the open or first shirt1 and begin to wear the close shirt 7,fig4 #cj7 until they reach the age of seven or eight years1 when the usual shaped shirt or shift is worn4 ,,scale ,,for ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,child of ,child of ---------------- #h months4 #b yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of material #ad #ae ,full breadth of shirt to be cut in width #ad #ae ,length of shirt to be cut down the selvage #d #e ,length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage #a #a ,width of sleeve #c #c ,gusset #a #a ,slit down the arm-hole #a #b ,space for shoulder #a #a ,slit for flaps #a #a ,slit for tail #a #a ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,child of,child of ---------------- #e yrs4 #g or #i yrs ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of material #af #ah ,full breadth of shirt to be cut in width #af #ah ,length of shirt to be cut down the selvage #g #i or #aj ,length or depth of sleeve cut down the selvage #a #b ,width of sleeve #c #c ,gusset #a #b ,slit down the arm-hole #b #c ,space for shoulder #a #b ,slit for flaps #a #b ,slit for tail #a #b ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,explanation ,,of ,,the ,,first ,,size4 ,choose your lawn or calico #ad nails wide1 if possible1 to admit exactly of one shirt in the width4 ,cut #d nails down the selvage-way for the length of the shirt4 ,fold the piece in half1 which will make it #g nails wide when thus doubled1 make a slit down the doubled part of #a nails deep for the arm-hole1 and put a pin in the two selvages to mark the depth of the other arm-hole4 ,fold the shirt once more1 so as to lay the two arm-holes one upon the other1 7see ,fig4 #bg71 and1 at the top1 from ,o to ,q1 measure #a nails for the shoulder1 and slit #a nails1 making the slit ,b ,d slope outwards towards the sleeve1 about half a nail out of the straight line1 as bosom flaps shaped thus1 set much better to the figure1 and also that part of the shoulder 7,fig4 #cj1 ,p7 can be turned over1 and confines all straps1 tapes1 c4 neatly1 so as to prevent their being seen from under the frock sleeve4 ,the sleeve usually put in is #a nail deep1 to be cut down the selvage1 and #c nails wide4 ,the sleeve-gusset a full nail square1 and the skirt gusset half a nail square4 7,see ,fig4 #bd47 ,the shirt is made up as follows 7see ,fig4 #cj74 ,sew the two selvages together 7see ,r7 with fine strong thread1 leaving #a nails above for the arm-hole1 ,s1 and #a nail below for the opening1 or tail of the shirt1 ,u4 ,the corresponding side1 ,h1 is double1 so that the slit for the arm-hole and for the tail have to be cut4 ,hem the bottom of the skirt and up the tails1 after putting in the gussets 7or tail bits as they are generally called74 ,some people think these tail gussets unnecessary for young children2 but they add so much to the strength of the shirt1 and give so little extra trouble1 that they are well worth the pains4 ,sew and fell the shoulders with flat narrow seams1 hem the bosom flaps1 taking care to turn down your hems so as to be the right side outwards1 where the flap falls over4 ,set in your sleeves quite plain1 till nearly the top of the shoulder1 and full in the remainder1 in very small neat gathers4 ,two tape strings are sewn at the corners of the front bosom flaps4 ,fig4 #be is another pattern of a sleeve which is very neat when worn1 as it is never seen below the frock sleeve2 but it has a less finished appearance than the other4 ,this last shape1 however1 is preferable for children from four to six years of age1 from its strength and simplicity1 and is made as follows3--,cut a piece of calico two nails square1 which fold and cut in half1 corner-wise 7see ,fig4 #bi72 fold this half square again1 and the double part1 ,d1 falls under the arm1 ,e is set into the shirt1 and ,h is hemmed neatly for the arm to go through4 ,the great advantage of this shape is1 that the shift sleeve is never seen from beneath the child's frock1 and therefore always sets neatly 7see ,fig4 #cj1 the sleeve to the right74 ,illustration3 ,plate #c4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,,infants' ,,first ,,flannel ,,gowns4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b4 ,this is an excellent pattern for an infant's first gown1 either day or night1 from the ease with which it is put on1 and also for the warmth and support it gives to the child4 ,the body is made of flannel1 lined with very fine soft calico or lawn4 ,in cutting out the skirt1 tear off two breadths of the proper length4 ,the long clothes of babies of the higher classes are longer than those of the poor1 as the latter would soon be tumbled and dirty1 they should be #ac or #ad nails1 and for the former1 about one yard is ample4 ,some ladies dress their children in very long flannels and robes1 but this is as unnecessary as it is ill-judged2 for the weight of the long petticoats must be painful1 besides the perfect inability of the poor infant to stretch and kick about its little limbs1 is obvious4 ,divide one of these breadths in two1 and pin a half-breadth to each side of the whole breadth4 ,run firmly down the two seams1 and herring-bone them back again1 and then bind with the flannel binding neatly down the two sides of the front1 and at the bottom of the skirt4 ,the body is #ab nails long to be cut down the selvage1 and #b nails wide4 ,about seven bodies can be cut in the width1 flannel being generally #ad nails wide4 ,double the piece for the body length-wise1 and stick in a pin #a nail from the front or doubled part 7see ,a ,b7 to mark where the beginning of the arm-hole lies4 ,the arm-hole is #a nail across1 and nail deep2 after cutting it out1 slope the remainder of the body from ,h to ,k in a straight line1 to within a nail from the bottom at the end1 so as not to finish off in a point4 ,a large opening1 or sort of button-hole is next made under the left arm-hole1 to be nail long1 leaving about nail above and below it4 ,it is thus made up3 place the soft lining upon the flannel1 taking care that the wrong side is outwards1 and run them firmly together1 pretty near the edge1 along the two sides1 the top of the body1 and round the arm-holes2 after which1 finish your thread firmly off1 turn the body inside out1 and stroke the lining and flannel smoothly together1 by putting your hand inside and pressing it gently all round4 ,next put the skirt into the body2 measure the middle of each and pin them together2 afterwards1 pin the front or opening of the skirt at ,m1 exactly half way between the arm-hole and the end of the body 7see ,o ,p74 ,the skirt from ,m to ,o to be set in plain1 and then the remainder plaited up in about twelve small equal plaits to the middle1 taking care to turn the plaits so as to lie outwards from the centre towards the point2 the other half is then to be fixed in1 and with a strong thread1 stitch the plaits to the flannel body1 laying the two rough edges together4 ,when done1 smooth down the stitched part1 and hem the calico lining to it4 ,the body should next be run neatly and firmly with very small stitches all round1 about inch from the edge4 ,in the part from ,p to ,m1 the lining should be made so as to be a little seen on the outside1 and be hemmed down to represent flannel binding4 ,the lawn or calico shoulder-straps should be cut #a nail long1 and a button-hole worked at one end1 while the other is sewn on that end of the arm-hole towards the middle4 ,the slit or button-hole should be turned over neatly by the lining1 to appear as if bound all round4 ,two narrow tapes of #d nails long1 sewn to the points1 complete the whole4 ,in dressing the infant1 the one end is drawn round through the slit1 which makes it fit closely and compactly to the figure1 and yet be soft and elastic4 ,fig4 #b is the representation of one folded as if on4 ,,another ,,shape ,,for ,,an ,,infant',s ,,first ,,flannel ,,night-,,gown4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f1 #g4 ,this is a very good kind also1 and the one in most general use1 though not equal to the one just described4 ,it takes a breadth and a half to make this petticoat1 therefore it prevents waste if you cut out two at once4 ,cut your two breadths #ad nails long1 or a yard1 according to pleasure1 and measure along the width of one breadth 7,fig4 #e7 #c nails from the selvage 7see ,a ,b71 and put in a pin as a mark4 ,measure the same at the other end of the width of the flannel1 making your measurement from the opposite selvage 7see ,c ,d72 then double your flannel smoothly across from ,b to ,d1 and cut it evenly along the sloping line4 ,the other breadth of flannel is torn exactly down the middle4 ,take one of these halves1 and let one of the above mentioned sloped pieces be pinned on each side of it1 taking care to place them with the sloped part outwards 7see ,fig4 #f1 ,e ,e71 and the smaller part of each sloped piece be at the top4 ,after running and herring-boning the two seams1 ,p ,p1 you must cut out the top part of the skirt to form the body4 ,first1 therefore1 double the skirt very evenly in half1 and beginning at the end which is open1 leave #c nails for the back1 ,l ,l1 and place a pin as a mark2 and also in order that the flannel1 when once laid correctly1 may not slip out of its place4 ,measure #a nail for the arm-hole1 which you must also pin2 then cut it out to the depth of nail1 ,l ,o ,n1 measure #a nail beyond for the bosom1 ,n ,x1 and then cut down #a nail deep1 in a straight line1 ,x ,y2 after which1 cut off the flannel in a straight line1 ,y ,w1 to the end4 ,the gown1 when opened1 has the appearance of ,fig4 #f1 with a large piece cut out of the bosom in the middle4 ,the two sides of this gap in the bosom should be very firmly run together about one inch from the edges2 these edges then should be laid open1 so as to turn back1 one on the one side1 and the other on the other1 and very neatly herring-boned down2 it will thus have the appearance of two hems 7see ,z ,z1 ,fig4 #g74 ,the skirt1 which of course is very full1 must be set into two equal double plaits1 and herring-boned upon the body in the inside4 ,the skirt at the sides must next be set in two or three plaits 7see ,f ,g1 ,fig4 #g71 so that1 when plaited up1 the space from the arm-hole to the back be but #a nail4 ,bind or herring-bone the top of the bosom1 and make a string-case of soft tape at the top of the back4 ,put in the tapes1 sew on shoulder straps of soft calico or tape1 with button-holes1 and put on the buttons at the end of the arm-hole1 towards the back4 ,,another ,,infant',s ,,flannel ,,gown4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this shape is the one generally used by the lower classes1 not only for flannels1 but for print gowns and petticoats2 and is preferred to others on account of the ease with which it is cut out1 and also because there is much less needle-work in the making up3 there is1 however1 some waste1 which is an objection4 ,the gown is #ac nails long1 but as there should be no seam on the shoulder1 the two breadths must be cut in one length of #bf nails1 which is #a yard #aj nails4 ,double it in two1 so as to be #ac nails long1 and then fold it in half very evenly down the middle1 so as to make the four selvages lie exactly one upon the other1 and pin them firmly down to keep the folds in place2 then1 after measuring #c nails from the selvages at the top 7see ,a ,s71 to determine the length of the sleeves1 cut out the part ,s ,c ,d1 to form the neck of the gown4 ,observe that the part from ,s to ,c is a nail deep1 which should be nicely rounded off1 and from ,c to ,d1 the bosom is cut straight along4 ,the gown is next shaped at the side2 and to do so properly1 put in a pin at ,s1 and fold it in a regular slope down to the bottom of the gown4 ,measure down the slope from the top1 ,s1 the distance of #b nails1 and put in a pin as a guide2 cut off from the bottom upwards to ,t1 and rounding it off at the corner1 slope along ,t ,k for the sleeve1 allowing #a nail width for the wrist4 ,in making it up1 the seams should be joined with a mantua-maker's hem1 and a band should be sewn on the inside of the front1 to be #f nails in length1 and about #a nail below the neck4 ,cut a button-hole in the gown at each end of the band1 draw with a bodkin a piece of tape through one hole1 and fasten it down at the other extremity of the band2 do the same with the other button-hole1 so that on pulling the tapes1 the gown will be drawn up1 and neatly fulled in front4 ,,infant',s ,,second ,,size ,,night-,,flannel4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,this shape is used when infants are six or eight months old1 and is merely a double flannel body sewn upon the skirt1 which is two breadths of #ab nails in length4 ,the body is #aa nails long1 to be cut down the selvage1 and #b nails deep when doubled2 therefore cut it #e nails wide1 and double it down all the length very carefully4 ,you must pin or tack it together evenly1 to enable you to cut out the arm-holes correctly4 ,then fold the body in two1 measure from the end two nails for the back1 ,a1 and cut out the arm-hole #a nail deep1 and #a nail across4 ,open the body again1 unpick the tacking-threads1 and run round the arm-holes with small firm stitches on the wrong side of the flannel1 also up the sides2 after which1 turn the body inside out1 and then make a large plait in front as a support to the child2 this plait ought to be so large1 that when made1 only #b nails will remain between the arm-holes1 instead of #d nails4 ,after herring-boning this plait neatly down1 run in small stitches all round the body 7see the dotted line7 at about a of an inch from the edge1 to make the flannel lie flat1 and give it a finished appearance4 ,some people back-stitch it1 and others prefer making a line of very small herring-bone1 or else chain-stitch it all round4 ,these last two modes are certainly more ornamental1 but the simple running is quite as neat1 and saves much time2 three tapes must be sewn on one end of the body1 at equal distances from each other1 and at scarcely a nail from the edge2 the three tapes at the other end to be sewn on close to the edge1 and to correspond with the others1 so as to tie neatly with each other1 and to allow of the body lapping over nearly a nail4 ,the shoulder straps of tape are sewn on1 and are #b nails long1 after allowing an extra half nail for turning in4 ,the skirt is sewn up1 and not open as the others2 the bottom is neatly bound1 the pocket-hole is torn down the middle of one of the breadths1 and is two nails long2 it must also be bound all round4 ,the skirt is set into the body in small plaits4 ,,infant',s ,,first ,,size ,,day ,,flannel4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,scale ,,of ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,infant4 ,child ,child of,child of ---------------- of #f #b or #c #d or #f months4 yrs4 yrs4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of skirt #af #ab #e #f ,length of body down the selvage #h #i #aj #aa ,depth of body #a #a #b #c ,space across the arm-hole #a #a #a #b ,depth of arm-hole #a #a #a ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,the space for the bosom and back is ascertained by dividing the body in four1 and cutting out the arm-holes according to the ,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,the body is made of fine jean or twill1 lined with lawn2 or1 if for the lower classes1 of soft coarse calico1 with plenty of nap upon it4 ,the body is #h nails long1 to be cut down the selvage1 and #a deep1 so that twelve bodies could be exactly cut in the width1 if your stuff were #ae nails wide4 ,fold the body in two1 and1 after measuring #a nail from the edge1 cut out the arm-holes1 which are #a nail across1 and nail deep4 ,slope off1 both at the top of the back and at the bosom1 about a of an inch1 to make it set better4 ,the lining is next cut out1 and both are run neatly together1 the wrong side outwards1 near the edges1 along the sides and top1 and round the arm-holes3 when done1 turn the body inside outwards1 and flatten it between your finger and thumb1 so as to make it lie flat4 ,afterwards back-stitch it1 in beautifully even stitches1 all round the top and sides1 at a little distance from the edge4 ,sew on the shoulder-straps and tapes1 putting three on each side2 those on one side to be set close to the edge1 and the other three at about half a nail's distance from it4 ,the skirt is about #ad nails or a yard long3 the two breadths are sewn together1 and the pocket-hole torn in the middle of the back breadth about #b nails4 ,the bottom is bound1 as also the pocket-hole1 and the skirt set in the body in regular small plaits at the sides1 leaving it plain in the middle for about #b nails4 ,,another ,,child',s ,,day ,,flannel4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,this pattern is intended for children of six to ten years1 previous to their wearing stays4 ,the body is made of fine jean1 and lined with calico2 pieces of cord or bobbin are placed between the two in rows1 and fastened in by the needle1 running the body and lining together between each two rows4 ,rows of cord may be thus run in various patterns1 and1 if neatly done1 look very pretty4 ,the ,plate is a sufficient guide for cutting out the body1 without further description4 ,the skirt should be set in plaits in the middle1 and towards the ends4 ,the shoulder-straps should also be of jean4 ,,infant',s ,,flannel ,,band4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,infants require great warmth and support round the stomach and hips1 and for that purpose1 wear flannel bands for the first ten or twelve months4 ,cut the flannel down the selvage #ad nails long1 and #b nails wide4 ,it should be exactly #ae nails in width1 to enable you to cut out six without waste4 ,herring-bone very neatly the top and bottom1 and herring-bone a deep hem of a nail 7see ,a7 at one end1 and a narrow one 7see ,d7 at the other2 then make two large plaits in the middle1 to reduce the length to #aa nails 7see ,b ,c74 ,these plaits will be about half a nail deep1 and should fall one on each side of the middle1 and be herring-boned down4 ,the three strings on each side to be sewn as seen in the ,plate2 those of the one side to be put at #c nails from the end4 ,,infants' ,,flannel ,,pilchers ,,or ,,savers4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj4 ,infants often wear pilchers or savers1 put over their napkins1 to prevent their clothes from being wetted4 ,they are made as follows3-- ,cut a piece of flannel #aa nails square1 fold it in half1 and cut it crosswise1 ,a ,b3 it will make two pilchers4 ,it must next be rounded off a little at the two corners1 ,a ,b1 and at the third corner1 ,e1 7which1 observe1 is opposite the cross-way of the flannel17 sew on a piece of calico1 in which cut a button-hole4 ,the crossed part1 ,a ,b1 is then neatly plaited into a calico band1 #a nail deep1 when doubled1 and #h nails long1 and a button and button-hole sewn on at the ends4 ,in putting it on1 first button the band round the waist in front1 bring the corner between the legs1 and button it to the same button4 ,,infants' ,,napkins4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig #aa4 ,babies napkins should be made of soft diaper1 or1 if for the poor1 old sheeting1 table linen1 or strong fine linen answers well4 ,choose your material exactly #aj or #bj nails wide4 ,napkins are generally made by cutting the diaper in lengths of #bj nails1 and doubling each length in two4 ,sew nearly all round the doubled piece1 taking care to turn the raw edges outwards instead of inwards1 as usually done1 because the napkin is turned inside out1 when it is sewn all round1 with the exception of a space large enough to admit the hand1 to enable it to be turned4 ,this opening is afterwards neatly sewn up with small stitches4 ,it is essential that the seam or outer edge of napkins should be as smooth and soft as possible1 on account of the tender skin of infants3 it is very desirable to soak and scald the material often before it is used4 ,two strings and a tape loop may be added1 to be used instead of a pin1 to fasten it on4 ,,another ,,mode ,,of ,,making ,,napkins4 ,the pieces1 when cut off1 should be merely hemmed like towels1 and1 when used1 are doubled and put on as the others4 ,the grand advantage of this simple sort is1 that when there is but one baby1 they come in1 after nursery use1 for towels and other purposes1 whereas the others are comparatively useless4 ,,infant',s ,,night-,,gown4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #ad1 #ae4 ,night-gowns are generally made of calico or dimity1 and sometimes of fine twilled muslin4 ,the calico are most frequently used1 but the dimity look the prettiest2 they1 however1 often split1 and are not so durable as the former4 ,this pattern is the one usually adopted by ladies for infants3 it requires great neatness in the making up1 to look well4 ,let your material be about a yard wide1 and cut two breadths of #ah nails long each4 ,fold each breadth very evenly down the middle1 and at one end stick a pin1 exactly #b nails from the selvages4 ,crease the stuff from this point to about a nail from the bottom1 and cut off the gore4 ,these gores come in for the two bands and wristbands4 ,the former are each #aj nails long1 and #a nail deep2 the wristbands are #b nails wide1 and1 when double1 are nail deep3 they should be nicely rounded at one end4 ,the sleeves are cut in the shape and to the size of ,plate #d1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,after sewing up the seams1 the neck and arm-holes are formed4 ,the shoulder is a little sloped1 and is #a nail long4 ,the arm-holes are a little curved1 and #a nail deep4 ,the bosom and back are hollowed1 and the slit behind is #c nails deep4 ,procure a piece of strong insertion-work1 #b nails long1 and of a nail deep4 ,in making it up1 first hem the neck of the gown1 and1 at of a nail below the bosom1 run the finest gathers possible1 leaving a space of #a nail on each side1 between the end of the gathers and the sleeve4 ,the gown is again gathered across1 about a nail below the first gathering1 and then the insertion muslin is very neatly sewn on the gathers1 with very small even stitches2 the two bands are next stitched1 one at each end of the insertion-work1 and are rounded off at the ends4 ,a narrow frill of lawn is put round the bosom4 ,the sleeves are fulled at the top1 and set in2 they are either merely hemmed to admit a tape1 and a lawn frill sewn on them1 or are put into wristbands1 which should button over4 ,instead of putting in insertion-work1 some bias it at the waist1 which is thought to make it wear better4 ,fig4 #ad represents the front1 and ,fig4 #ae the back of the gown4 ,,another ,,infant',s ,,night-,,gown4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #af1 #ag4 ,the skirt of this pattern is cut out exactly like the one before mentioned1 but is made up in a more simple manner4 ,the gown1 instead of being gathered in front1 is left loose1 and a strip of calico1 a nail deep1 is sewn on in the inside1 about of a nail deep from the bosom1 and of such a length as to leave1 on each side1 but two nails space between it and the arm-holes4 ,this piece of calico is to be used as a string-case1 and two small slits for tape-holes must be cut in the gown1 at about a of a nail distance1 within each end of the strip4 ,the tapes should be rather broad1 and each1 on being drawn by a bodkin through its slit1 should be carried along the string-case and firmly fastened down to the opposite end1 so that1 on pulling the two strings1 the gown is drawn up in neat gathers1 forming a body4 ,the sleeves are cut down the selvage instead of crosswise1 and are nearly straight1 the top being #d nails wide1 and the bottom or wrist1 #b nails4 ,a small frill may be put on the bosom and wrists2 or1 if it is a coloured gown for a poor child1 a small runner to admit a bobbin1 at the distance of the width of a narrow frill from the edge1 will1 on being drawn up1 form a very neat frill both for the bosom and sleeves4 ,,another ,,infant',s ,,night-,,gown4 ,this sort is only used by the poorer classes4 ,it is made of coloured print or soft calico1 and is cut out exactly after the pattern of the flannel bed-gown 7see ,plate #c1 ,fig4 #d74 ,the frills are formed by making runners near the edge of the neck and wrists4 ,,infants' ,,pinafores4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,pinafores are made of diaper1 ,holland1 linen1 or print4 ,the former are for ladies' infants--the latter for the poor4 ,the patterns vary according to sex and age4 ,the one generally used at first is as follows3-- ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ---------------- ,first size4,child of ,child of #b yrs4 #f yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length down selvage #h #aj #ab ,width of material #aa #ad #ae ,depth of arm-hole #b #b #b ,piece left for shoulder #a #a ,quantity hollowed out of neck ,length of frill to each arm-hole #aj or #aa -- -- ,depth of frill ,distance from top for the second tape to be sewn on #b #b #b ,size of gussets ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,procure your material exactly the proper width for the pinafore1 to prevent waste4 ,alter cutting off the pieces of the proper length and width for the pinafores1 take one piece and fold it down the middle1 length-wise1 in two2 then again fold it1 and cut the slits for the arm-holes by a thread4 ,pin it carefully together1 still folded in four1 whilst you hollow out the neck1 leaving the proper space for the shoulders4 ,hem it at the top as you would a shift1 by turning down the hem1 and then turning it backwards1 the more readily to hold it while you sew the hem firmly all round4 ,the arm-holes should have narrow hems1 and be very firmly sewed at the bottom1 or they will tear4 ,whip and sew on the frills1 hem the bottom1 sew on the tapes1 and the pinafore is completed4 ,some people put gussets in at the shoulder3 and it is better to do so for elder children4 ,for further sizes1 see ,school ,girl's ,pinafore4 ,,pinafore ,,with ,,lappets4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,this shape is very much used by the poor1 as it protects the sleeves4 ,the pinafore is cut out exactly as in ,fig4 #ah2 but instead of putting on frills1 little capes or lappets are substituted4 ,these capes are cut width-way of the size1 according to the ,scale4 ,,scale ,,of ,,lappets4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ---------------- ,first size4 ,second size4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,length down selvage #aj nails #a yard ,depth #a ditto #a nail ---------------------------------------- ------- ,the cape is rounded off towards the ends1 and1 after being neatly hemmed1 is whipped and sewn all round the arm-hole1 making the ends come under the arm4 ,in front1 the pinafore is confined with a band1 which is stitched firmly on in two places before1 and which1 passing round the waist1 buttons behind4 ,,the ,,waste-,,not ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba4 ,this is a particularly simple shape1 being cut without any waste whatever4 ,divide the pinafore in four1 and cut it according to the ,plate4 ,,scale4 ,nails4 ,width of material #ab ,length of ditto #h ,space from ,a to ,b #a ,space from ,b to ,c ,space from ,c to ,d ,cut from ,a to ,d1 by which means a shoulder-flap is made1 and1 when on1 the shoulder-piece is raised sufficiently to prevent the necessity of hollowing out the neck4 ,a double plait should be sewn under the arm-hole 7see ,fig4 #ba1 ,a74 ,this cape1 being plain1 is improved by an edging of work1 or a little braid1 to add lightness to its appearance4 ,a ,,baby',s ,,dress ,,pinafore ,,or ,,tidy4 ,,plate #c4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,intended to be worn when the child's frock is tumbled or untidy4 ,it is made of cambric or jaconet muslin4 ,there are two breadths in it of #ad nails wide--one breadth in front1 and the other cut in two1 and sewn on each side4 ,the arm-holes are made in the seams1 and frilled round1 or lappets sewn on4 ,at the top in front1 from shoulder to shoulder1 the pinafore is drawn up by a tape in the hem1 and secured to the proper size4 ,the front is biassed into a band of insertion-work1 to go partly round the waist4 ,the back is drawn by a string at the top1 and again below by a string-case4 ,the front may be either simply biassed once into the band1 or it may have three or four rows of biassing4 ,round the top is an edging of work1 or a frill4 ,,infants' ,,petticoats4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ---------------- ,first ,child of ,child of size4 #ah months4 #b yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of material #ad #ad #af ,length of body down the selvage #i #aj #aa ,depth of body #a #b #b ,depth of arm-holes #a #a ,width of arm-holes #a #a #b ,depth of slit behind #c #c #c ,length of shoulder-straps #a #a #b ,length of short sleeve when opened out #d #g #h ,greatest depth of ditto #b #b #c ,least depth of ditto #a #a ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ---------------- ,child of,child of #e yrs4 #h yrs4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of material #af #ah ,length of body down the selvage #ab #ac ,depth of body #b #b ,depth of arm-holes #a #b ,width of arm-holes #b #b ,depth of slit behind #c #c ,length of shoulder-straps #b #b ,length of short sleeve when opened out #i #aj ,greatest depth of ditto #c #d ,least depth of ditto #a #b ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,petticoats are generally made of jaconet muslin1 twilled muslin1 or fine calico1 and should be about #ad nails wide4 ,the skirt is #b breadths in width1 and cut to the length required1 after allowing for the deep hem or tucks4 ,they are usually cut the following sizes for the rich and poor4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,first size #ag #ae ,three-quarter size #ac #ab ,small size #h #g ,in cutting out the body1 double the strip in two1 and again in half1 so as to be folded exactly in four1 and cut out the arm-holes according to the depth and width wanted1 as seen by the ,scale4 ,the sleeves are cut out according to the pattern in ,plate #d1 ,fig4 #ab or #ac2 the shoulder-straps are cut out1 and the body is ready for making up4 ,hem it along the top1 sufficiently wide to admit a tape1 stitch on the shoulder-straps1 sew and hem the sleeves1 and gather them into the shoulder-straps4 ,the body should have rather wide hems at the two ends1 and a sufficiently wide hem at the bottom to admit a narrow tape4 ,full the body in front1 and sew it firmly to the skirt 7which should be previously gathered71 making it lie pretty evenly all round4 ,the top strings should draw from the shoulder-straps only1 and another string may be run in the front to draw it1 and tie on one side4 ,,infants' ,,frocks4 ,,plate #d4 ,are generally made of jaconet muslin1 twilled muslin1 and print1 and1 when the children are older1 sometimes of nankeen1 jean1 ,holland1 merino1 cloth1 stuff1 and silk4 ,those for the poor are usually of print1 and are made according to the pattern for petticoats 7see ,plate #d1 ,fig4 #a72 those for the rich are made in various ways1 among which are the following3-- ,the full body4 ,the plain body1 cut in one piece4 ,the plain body1 with backs and fronts cut crosswise4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #d4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #bh ,fig #be ,fig #bf ,fig #bg ,fig #bi ,fig #cj ,,scale ,,for ,,the ,,skirts4 ,width of skirt #b or #c breadths1 so as to form from #ad to #af nails wide1 when the skirt is double1 as if made up4 ,rich4 ,poor4 -------- -------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of skirt for first size #ah #ae ,ditto three-quarters size #ab or #ad #aj ,ditto short coats #h #h ,depth of hem at the bottom #d #a ,depth of slit to the skirt #b #b ,there are so many ways of making up skirts1 that only a few will be described4 ,broad hems and tucks of various depths are the simplest and prettiest2 others are more ornamented by letting in work at the top of the broad hem1 or working with braid1 bobbin1 or cord4 ,robings are often brought down in front1 in continuation of the little capes sewn on the bodies4 ,these robings should be #a nail broad1 sloped off to nail1 and carried down to the bottom of the skirt1 or to the top of a deep hem4 ,they should be sewn on so that the edge of the work is turned outwards4 ,the sleeves are made according to fancy1 and are of the sizes marked in the ,scale1 pages #ce1 #cf4--7,see also1 ,plate #d47 ,,full ,,bodies4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,child ,child ---------------- ,first of of size4 #a yr4 #c yrs4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,depth of body down the selvage #a #b #b ,length of body width-way of the cloth #ad #af #bj ,depth of arm-hole #a #a #a ,width across arm-hole #a #b #b ,length of waistband #h #i #aj ,length of band for the hem at top #h #i #aa ,length of sleeve-bands #c #c #d ,length of shoulder-strap1 if wanted #a #b #b ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,child ,child ---------------- of of #e yrs4 #h yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,depth of body down the selvage #b #c ,length of body width-way of the cloth #bj #bj ,depth of arm-hole #a #b ,width across arm-hole #b #c ,length of waistband #aa #ac ,length of band for the hem at top #ab #ac ,length of sleeve-bands #d #d ,length of shoulder-strap1 if wanted #b #c ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,in cutting it out1 double the strip for the body once1 and again in half1 and then cut out the arm-holes the proper depth and width4 ,the full body is made up in either of the following ways3--the first and most simple1 is by merely hemming it at the top and bottom1 putting wide hems at the ends1 and then setting it upon the skirt1 making more fulness at the back and in front than at the sides4 ,the sleeves are put into the body with shoulder-straps4 ,the tapes are put in to draw from the shoulder-straps behind1 at the top1 and another string to draw in front1 also a tape all through the waist-hem4 ,these simply-made frocks are very useful for fast-growing children1 as they will let out to the size wanted4 ,,another ,,mode ,,of ,,making ,,up4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,the other mode of making them up is the neatest in appearance4 ,the body is gathered at the top and set into a long narrow band1 which forms the hem and the shoulder-straps4 ,the bottom of the body is also firmly gathered1 and sewn on with very strong thread to the skirt1 which is also gathered so as to let the fulness lie principally in front4 ,sometimes the body is biassed in front in two or three rows1 as in ,fig4 #b4 ,,plain ,,straight ,,body4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,first ,child of,child of ---------------- size4 #a yr4 #b yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of body down selvage #aj #aa #ab ,depth of body #a #a #b ,depth of arm-hole #a #a ,width across arm-hole #a #a #b ,length of band1 if wanted #h #i #i ,length of shoulder-straps #a #b #b ,length of sleeve-bands #c #c #c ,length of band at top #i #aj #aj ,length of each cape #i #aj #aa ,depth down selvage #a ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,child of,child of,child of #d yrs4 #h yrs4 #aj yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of body down selvage #ad #af #ah ,depth of body #b #b #c ,depth of arm-hole #b #b #c ,width across arm-hole #b #b #c ,length of band1 if wanted #aj #aa #ab ,length of shoulder-straps #b #b #c ,length of sleeve-bands #c #d #d ,length of band at top #aj #aa #ab ,length of each cape #ac #ad #ad ,depth down selvage #a #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,straight bodies are generally used for ladies' children1 and are ornamented in different ways4 ,some are worked in bobbin-work1 coronation braid 7see ,fig4 #d71 common braid1 or else work is let in2 and others with satin-stitch worked on the muslin1 or very fine small tucks1 either horizontal or perpendicular 7see ,fig4 #c74 ,one or two bodies will be more minutely described here1 as a guide by which to make others4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,divide the body in half1 so as to ascertain the middle1 and run a tacking-thread down it2 run two others1 one on each side1 at the distance of little more than a nail from the middle1 at the top1 and slanting down to the middle point at the bottom of the body2 run two others1 at the distance of of a nail on each side of the last1 slanting them towards the centre1 at the distance of a nail on each side from the centre4 ,these tacking-threads serve as a guide1 by which means the pattern can be done more regularly4 ,sew two bobbin-lines1 one on each side of each tacking-thread1 leaving a small space between them sufficiently wide for little oylet-holes1 or some other ornamental pattern1 to be worked4 ,afterwards1 sew on the bobbin neatly in patterns1 according to fancy4 ,put in the sleeves next1 having worked the bands and the triangular shoulder-bits to correspond with the front4 ,next put on the capes4 ,the whole should be trimmed with a little edging or narrow work4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,the front is worked in fancy button-hole stitch1 as in ,plate #e1 ,fig4 #ai4 ,the bands round the sleeves and the triangular shoulder-bits are worked in rows of the same stitch4 ,the capes are worked near the edge with the horse-shoe stitch1 as also the ends of the body 7,plate #e1 ,fig4 #bj71 and the edging is entirely of fancy bobbin edging 7,plate #e1 ,fig4 #ah74 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,procure some pretty open work1 in the style of that in the ,plate1 and sew several strips together1 always making the pieces narrower at the bottom than at the top1 in order to make them point towards the centre1 as in the ,plate4 ,a body made thus generally wears and washes very well4 ,the capes should be of some pretty work1 and the whole trimmed with edging to match the rest4 ,the triangular shoulder-bits have a piece of insertion-work inlaid in them4 ,,body ,,with ,,honey-,,comb ,,stitch4 ,this body has the side-bits cut as above1 and the front is a triangular piece of honeycomb-stitch worked and let in4 ,in making the triangular bit1 lay the plaits very narrow and even1 before working it in honeycomb4 ,for a description of the stitch1 see ,plate #a1 ,fig4 #ae1 #af4 ,,sleeves4 ,,plate #d4 ,there are various sorts of long and short sleeves1 some of which it is impossible to describe clearly1 and it will not1 therefore1 be attempted4 ,the most simple are the following3-- ,,the ,,round ,,sleeve4 ,,fig4 #a1 #ah4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,child ,child ,child ---------- ,first of of of size4 #a yr4#c yrs4#f yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,nails4,nails4,nails4,nails4 ,size of square piece out of which the circle for the sleeve is cut #g #h #i #aj ,diameter of inner circle #a #a #a #b ,length of shoulder-strap #a #a #a #b ,length of sleeve-band #c #c #c #c ,depth of sleeve-band #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,,fig4 #ah4 ,cut your material into square pieces of the size wanted 7in proportion to the ,scale71 and double the square in half1 so as to make it triangular1 or three-cornered in shape4 ,fold it in the same manner again and again1 as often as it will admit of being done2 one side is longer than the other1 mark it with your scissors the same distance on the long side from the point1 as it is on the short1 and cut it directly across2 by which means the square will become a circle1 as will be seen when opened4 ,this circle should be hollowed out at one side 7,plate #d1 ,fig4 #ah71 in order to make it set better under the arm4 ,before opening the circle1 a small hole should be cut at the pointed end1 to form the opening for the arm in proper proportion4 ,the shoulder-strap and band are next cut4 ,set the inner circle very neatly into the band2 after which1 gather the outer circle and sew it to the shoulder-strap1 ready to put into the body4 ,this sleeve is sometimes confined by loops of ribbon1 or little triangular pieces of work1 as in ,fig4 #b and #f4 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,,principally ,,used ,,for ,,petticoats ,,and ,,plain ,,frocks4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,baby's ,child of,child of -------------------- first size4 #b yrs4 #d yrs4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,measure of the largest depth #b #b #c ,length of sleeve1 when open1 to cut crosswise of the material #g #i #aa ,measure of the smallest depth #a ,length of band #c #c #c ,length of shoulder-strap #a #a #b ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,it is better to cut this pattern 7and indeed all patterns of sleeves7 in paper1 before cutting your material1 to prevent waste4 ,the pattern1 when folded in half1 resembles ,fig4 #ac1 being for the first size1 and is #b nails deep from ,a to ,b1 and #c nails long from ,b to ,c4 ,the top1 from ,a to ,d1 is sloped down1 beginning at ,e1 which is about half the length1 by which means the depth from ,d to ,c is only #a nail4 ,when opened1 the sleeve resembles ,fig4 #ab4 ,in cutting it out1 turn up a corner of your material 7,fig4 #ab7 in the form of a half-handkerchief1 ,a ,b being parallel to1 or straight with ,c ,d4 ,the pattern sleeve is laid with the long straight end upon the crease1 so as to lie crosswise4 ,cut through the folded muslin carefully by the pattern1 so that the pair of sleeves is cut at once4 ,the part which forms the bottom of the sleeve is straight1 and should be gathered into the band4 ,the sloped side is gathered or whipped into the shoulder-strap4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,the ,scale is the same as ,fig4 #ac and #h4 ,this sleeve is the most favourite shape1 and is cut out exactly like ,fig4 #ac2 after which the part1 ,a ,b1 is sloped off at #a nail from the end1 ,c4 ,a triangular piece of worked muslin is hemmed round2 the sleeve is then neatly put into the arm-hole1 with mantua-maker's hem1 or run and felled1 after which the rest of the sleeve is whipped and sewed on to the triangular piece4 ,these sleeves are generally made with a little frill very much fulled1 which forms a cape behind1 and also in front2 the frill is therefore sewed on the sleeve neatly at the edge of the triangular bit4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aa4 ,this is another variety of sleeve1 and is very pretty for a young child4 ,it is cut out1 in the first instance1 exactly like ,fig4 #ad2 after which it is sloped off in the shape of a triangle below1 so that the sleeve requires a triangular bit below1 as well as on the shoulder1 for the sleeve to be fulled to4 ,the bottom triangle should be cut with the band1 into which the sleeve is confined4 ,,long ,,sleeves4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #ae1 #af1 #ag4 ,long sleeves1 if for bed-gowns and under clothes1 may be cut according to the bits of cloth left1 to prevent waste1 always remembering to cut selvage-wise4 ,they are generally the shape of ,fig4 #ae1 ,plate #d4 ,the sleeve is sloped off from ,d to ,a1 so as to cut about a nail off the stuff 7see ,d ,c74 ,slope in the direction ,d ,e1 to make the wrist about #a or #b nails wide4 ,the part1 ,a ,b ,d1 should be hollowed4 ,sometimes it is desirable to piece the sleeve when there are many bits2 in which case it may be joined across from ,b to ,e of the under double1 taking care that the muslin pieced on also runs selvage-wise4 ,in cutting out long sleeves1 take care to cut them a pair1 so that the joinings shall lie outside1 and the hollowed part towards the inside or front4 ,from ,a to ,c is #c nails4 ,long sleeves1 for dresses1 spencers1 c41 to be properly made1 should be cut as follows 7,plate #d1 ,fig4 #af and #ag73--turn up the corner of your muslin to form such an angle as will just hold the sleeve1 so as to make the one side of the long sleeve lie along the selvage1 as in ,fig4 #af1 where1 the sleeve being small1 but little of the corner is turned up1 in which the sleeve1 ,a ,b ,c ,d1 exactly fits4 ,the top corner1 ,f1 must be sloped off1 and the corner1 ,d ,c1 also1 to the proper width for the wrist1 which is #a nail4 ,fig4 #ag is a better sort of sleeve1 and is here introduced1 though it properly belongs to the table of sleeves in ,plate #ab1 in which a description and pattern of each size is correctly given4 ,the corner is turned up to a complete half square1 so that ,a and ,b are parallel to ,c ,d4 ,from ,a to ,b is #f nails2 from ,b to ,d #e nails4 ,from ,a to ,h1 and from ,b to ,c1 are #a nail4 ,curve from ,h to ,e4 ,from ,h to ,g are #e nails4 ,from ,e to ,f are #c nails4 ,from ,f to ,g1 #a nail4 ,this sleeve is called the gigot1 or gigot de mouton sleeve1 from its likeness to a leg of mutton4 ,for further particulars1 see ,sleeves1 ,plate #ab4 ,,an ,,infant',s ,,receiver4 ,a receiver1 or wrapper1 in which an infant is put immediately on its birth1 previous to its being washed and dressed1 is composed of the finest ,welsh flannel1 with a soft warm nap upon it4 ,this flannel should be a perfect square1 and is generally made of #b breadths of flannel2 the width of the flannel must1 therefore1 determine the size of the square1 which should not be less than #bd nails1 or more than #b yards4 ,a soft piece of fine calico1 linen1 or cambric muslin1 is taken1 of the same size1 and they are bound together with flannel binding4 ,this receiver is frequently used afterwards by the poor in the double capacity of coverlet and shawl1 to carry the infant about in4 ,,infant',s ,,shawl4 ,for the first three months1 infants should be carried about in a shawl1 not only on account of the warmth1 but as a matter of security to their tender heads and limbs1 which cannot bear the hard pressure of the nurse's arm or hand4 ,these shawls for the nursery should be simply a square of flannel of #a breadth or #b breadths4 ,the best shawl1 with which it is carried into sitting-rooms1 should be made of merino1 ,indiana1 kerseymere1 or1 what is better still1 of the fine thick ,saxony flannel4 ,these are usually made with very deep hems1 about #a nail of the same material1 braided with silk braid all round1 and worked at the corners1 or else the hem is formed of pearl-white satin or rich silk2 but these last spoil so soon1 that it is a great expense4 ,,infant',s ,,flannel ,,cloak4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bd4 ,it is recommended to all mothers to have a flannel cloak to wrap round their infants when carried about in their night clothes1 and when up at night2 and they will be found especially useful when the baby is old enough to be dipped in a cold bath1 or obliged to be put in a warm one1 as1 on taking the child out of it1 they can wrap it up entirely1 and almost rub it dry with the cloak itself4 ,the first size here mentioned will last a child well from its birth until eighteen months or two years old4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,first size4 ,child from -------------------- #c to #f years4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,number of breadths of #ad nails #c #c ,length of skirt #a yd4 #d nls4 #a yd4 #h nls4 ,distance of arm-hole from top #d nails #e nails ,length of arm-hole #b do4 #b do4 ,collar 7see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #c7 column #d column #b ,shoulder-piece 7see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #a7 ,large cape1 if wanted #b breadths #b breadths ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,child from -------------------- #f to #i years4 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,number of breadths of #ad nails #d ,length of skirt #a yd4 #ab nls4 ,distance of arm-hole from top #f nails ,length of arm-hole #c do4 ,collar 7see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #c7 column #b ,shoulder-piece 7see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #a7 ,large cape1 if wanted #b breadths ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,the cloak requires two flannel shoulder-pieces to make it strong4 ,full the skirt very evenly all round to the proper size1 and then laying the edge between the edges of the two shoulder-pieces1 which should be held so as to fall back or down against the skirt1 one on each side1 sew1 or rather back-stitch them very firmly together4 ,when this is done1 turn up the shoulder-pieces on each side1 so that the edges are completely hidden on both sides of the cloak4 ,sew the collar neatly on to the other two edges of the shoulder-pieces1 and conceal the rough edges by means of a wide string-case of soft tape or calico4 ,the cloak is bound with flannel binding1 and the arm-holes also2 they are either opened in the seam1 or if that would make them too far back1 they should be cut in the flannel at once1 at the proper distance4 ,a deep cape might be added as the child grew older1 or if it were sickly and required additional warmth4 ,,child',s ,,bib4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,this is often used by mothers for their children while cutting their teeth1 to prevent the moisture from their mouths wetting their chests and the bosoms of their frocks4 ,it is made of three or four folds of fine diaper1 sewed together on the wrong side1 and turned inside out1 to conceal the edges1 it is hollowed to fit under the chin1 and made to tie with a ribbon round the neck4 ,,infants' ,,pelisses ,,and ,,cloaks4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,infant's first cloaks are generally made of some warm material1 as cloth1 merino1 kerseymere1 or wadded silk4 ,the last-mentioned1 though pretty1 soon spoils1 being easily injured by wet1 and the colours of those parts near the baby's chin fly and look shabby2 merino and kerseymere are decidedly the best for the purpose1 and look equally neat and handsome4 ,there is a kind of fine but thickly woven flannel1 particularly strong and elastic1 and well adapted for children's shawls and cloaks4 ,it is called ,saxony flannel1 but is rarely to be procured at country shops1 and seldom of any colour but white4 ,it is about #a and #a yard wide1 and varies from #cs4 #b;d4 to #es4 per yard3 for the lower orders1 cloth1 stuff1 nankeen1 gingham1 or print1 are the most serviceable4 ,,infant',s ,,long ,,pelisse4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba1 #bb1 #bh4 ,it must be made of two or more breadths1 according to the material2 as the widths vary exceedingly1 it is impossible to lay down a definite rule further than this2 that the whole width round the bottom should be from #cj to #cc nails2 and at the top sloped off to #bd nails4 ,supposing the material to be of wide width 7say #bj nails71 half one breadth would be wide enough for the back1 and one whole breadth crossed according to ,fig4 #bb1 would form the two fronts4 ,observe that the two straight sides of the crossed pieces are set in front4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,first ,second -------------------- size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,length of skirt #a #c #a #j ,width round the bottom1 about #cc #cj ,sloped off at the top to reduce the width to #bd #bd ,length of shoulder #b #b ,sloped off from the shoulder ,length of arm-hole #b #b ,arm-hole curves into the skirt 7see ,fig4 #bh7 ,length of sleeve down the selvage #e #f ,width of ditto #e #f ,double the sleeve selvage-wise1 and slope off for the wrist to #a #b ,case for string sewed on inside #d #e ,whole length of band #aj #aa ,cape1 according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #ca ,collar1 according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #ac ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- -------------------- ,third size4 ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,nails4 ,length of skirt #ad ,width round the bottom1 about #cj ,sloped off at the top to reduce the width to #bd ,length of shoulder #b ,sloped off from the shoulder ,length of arm-hole #c ,arm-hole curves into the skirt 7see ,fig4 #bh7 ,length of sleeve down the selvage #g ,width of ditto #f ,double the sleeve selvage-wise1 and slope off for the wrist to #b ,case for string sewed on inside #f ,whole length of band #ab ,cape1 according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #ca ,collar1 according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #ac ---------------------------------------- -------------- ,the sleeves1 collar1 c4 should be cut from the remaining half-breadth of the cloth4 ,if the material be but #aj or #ab nails wide1 #c breadths must be used1 and the two front breadths sloped off to the proper width at the top4 ,in making up the pelisses1 the front breadths are lined with silk or sarsenet1 as also the top part or body1 collar1 cape1 c41 but the back breadth should be lined with cambric muslin4 ,the hem at the bottom of the skirt is about #a nail deep1 while that up the sides and round the cape and collar are but of a nail4 ,take notice1 in cutting your collar and cape1 that allowance must be made for the hems4 ,the skirt seams are sewed up1 as well as the lining1 and joined together by means of the broad hem round the bottom2 the shoulders1 arm-holes1 and sleeves are next completed1 after which the neck is finished by making a hem at the top1 and drawing a tape through it1 which is fastened down at both ends after the skirt has been drawn up to the proper width which should be about #a nail wider than is required to set round the neck4 ,a strong case of ribbon or other soft material is next put round the neck inside1 through which a ribbon is drawn and fastened in the middle4 ,this ribbon1 of course1 ties in front4 ,for children's short pelisses1 see ,plate #ad4 ,,cloaks ,,for ,,summer4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,this is a very simple and remarkably neat looking pattern for a second sized cloak4 ,it looks well when made of twilled muslin1 cloth1 nankeen1 print1 and especially fine dimity4 ,the material should be about #a yard #c nails wide1 in which case one breadth and #ad nails is sufficient for the skirt1 which should be one yard long4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity required for one at #ai nails wide #c #ad ,width of cloak at the bottom #b #a ,length of ditto #a #j ,size of sleeves1 both width and length #e ,length of wristband down the selvage #c ,width of ditto #b ,length of band #ab ,width of ditto #b ,collar cut according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #c column #b ,shoulder-piece 7see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #d7 column #a ,length of cape down the selvage #g ,whole width of ditto #b #j ---------------------------------------- ------------- ,the remaining #e nails off the second breadth of the skirt may be cut into collar1 shoulder-piece1 c4 ,the cloak has a broad hem laid on all round1 which the cape and collar have also1 to form which1 strips should be cut selvage-wise of #a nail1 and sometimes worked muslin edging of a neat but open pattern is put on all round4 ,about #i or #aj yards of the strips are required1 and1 as frequent joinings look ill1 it would be better to cut off a piece of the material a yard long1 from which all the strips can be taken off2 #i strips of this length will only take #aa nails out of the breadth2 therefore1 if economy is a great object1 #aj strips might be cut in the breadth of but #aj nails deep1 which would cut up the breadth without waste4 ,yds4 nls4 ,material for ,cloak and most of the et ceteras #b #j ,ditto for long cape #ad ,ditto for strips #a #j ---- ---- #c #ad ,if the strips are often joined1 #c yards #h nails4 ,in making up the cloak1 the shoulder-piece is piped all round1 and the skirt fulled evenly into it4 ,the collar is then sewn on1 and a casing made at the top1 to admit of a ribbon4 ,the broad hem is next laid on all round1 and the sleeves put in4 ,at the waist1 the casing is sewn on inside1 and the band outside1 the back may be confined to the band or not1 at pleasure4 ,,infant',s ,,first ,,hood4 ,,plate #d4 ,,fig4 #bf1 #bg1 #bi1 #cj4 ,this is the most approved shape for infant's first hoods1 whether they are boys or girls1 owing to its warmth and softness1 and also for the comfort with which an infant can rest its head on its nurse's shoulder4 ,they are generally made of merino1 ,indiana1 kerseymere1 satin1 silk1 nankeen1 or indeed of any material similar to the cloak4 ,kerseymere1 lined with silk or satin of a pale colour is particularly pretty and suitable1 from its simplicity4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #e4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #aj ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #ab ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #ac ,fig #af ,fig #cj ,fig #ca ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bf ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #bi ,cut a piece along the selvage1 #g nails long1 and three nails wide2 double it in half its length1 making it only #c nails4 ,let ,f ,a 7see ,fig4 #bg7 be the doubled part1 and on the opposite end1 measure off one nail from ,c to ,b1 and cut it off in a direct line from ,b to ,a4 ,f ,d is the front of the hood4 ,the horse-shoe crown 7,fig4 #bf7 must be cut next1 for which take another piece of #b nails long1 down the selvage1 and #b nails wide4 ,fold it half the width1 and slope off a third of a nail from the bottom1 ,b to ,d1 also round off the top4 ,for the tippet or curtain1 form a perfect circle1 from a square of #h nails1 from which take out the triangular piece 7see ,fig4 #cj1 ,a ,b ,c71 the distance from ,b to ,c being #b nails along the line4 ,in making up the hood1 cut a lining of silk or satin the same size2 also one of fine flannel1 wadding1 or demet2 then sew the crowns into the head-pieces of each of the three materials separately4 ,the merino hood may be piped with silk or satin1 braided with silk braid or worked in chain-stitch1 with netting silk1 round the horse-shoe crown1 after which1 place the flannel lining between the merino and silk1 and stitch them firmly together with small neat stitches1 as close to the piping or braid as possible4 ,next run them all together at the edges1 admitting a piece of chip or thin whalebone to give a little stiffness4 ,two runners are made three quarters of a nail from the edge1 and from each other2 these runners must be of sufficient width to admit the three-penny width ribbon4 ,these ribbons are fastened at one side of the hood1 and drawn up to the proper size1 and then tacked down at the other1 leaving sufficient ribbon to allow of the hood being undrawn entirely1 when it is wanted2 another ribbon is put behind4 ,a rosette of satin ribbon is worn on the left side1 if a boy1 and in front1 if a girl1 and a small bow behind4 ,the curtain is sewed on plainly along the horse-shoe1 but fulled from thence to the ears4 ,these hoods will draw out to last a child twelve months after its birth1 and will clean well1 when of merino4 ,for children's hats and bonnets1 see ,plate #ai4 ,,cover ,,for ,a ,,bassinette4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,a bassinette 7see ,fig4 #d7 is a very small cradle made of wicker-work1 about #c feet long1 #ah inches wide1 and #ae inches high4 ,it is very useful for carrying about1 and may be set upon a table1 sofa1 or bed1 taken in a carriage1 or even upon the lap with little inconvenience4 ,for a delicate child1 and in the winter1 it is very desirable1 being much warmer than a larger cradle4 ,bassinettes are fitted up with a coloured lining under a thin dimity or muslin covering4 ,the lining is sometimes made of white1 blue or pink satin or silk1 but more generally1 and more sensibly1 of glazed calico4 ,it should be put on the outside of the wicker-work1 and also very neatly fulled in regular folds inside it4 ,the cover is made about half a yard deep down the selvage1 and #d yards wide4 ,when all the breadths are sewed together1 a deep hem is made at the top1 with a runner for a string 7the hem and runner together to be about #a nail74 ,if the material is thick1 it is better to sew to it1 quite plainly1 a deep frill1 of a finer texture1 to give it lightness1 instead of having the frill made of the same2 through the runner pass a tape1 which will draw it all round to the proper size1 to fit the body of the cradle2 a second hem at the bottom will also be required for the same purpose 7see ,plate #e1 ,fig4 #a74 ,the head-piece1 ,fig4 #b1 is made1 so that when drawn up1 it will fit the head of the bassinette4 ,cut a piece of a yard down the selvage1 and #a yard #b nails in width4 ,as there must be no seam in the width1 if the material be not wide enough1 it would be better to cut the width down the selvage-way instead4 ,it must be doubled in half the width 7the #a yard #b nails71 see ,fig4 #b1 and sloped off from ,b to ,c in a very gradual curve1 the space from ,a to ,b is #c nails4 ,hem each of the two straight sides1 and make a runner from ,b to ,c for a tape4 ,next full the straight part1 ,d ,a1 to the exact size round the front of the head2 let the fulling lie towards the middle1 and when ready1 sew on the double frill1 which is made of fine clear muslin4 ,the frill1 ,fig4 #c1 is cut in strips width-way1 of #c nails each2 sew these strips together till you have about #d yards length of frilling2 make a narrow hem on each side of the frill1 and then begin to put it upon the front1 or fulled part of the head-piece2 for this purpose1 double the frilling exactly in half1 and while thus doubled1 allow from the centre of a nail for the frilling1 and make another even crease all along4 ,open the frills1 and turning down at the one side1 begin to run2 and1 dividing it1 of course1 into quarters1 gather it evenly2 when done1 sew it firmly to the cover1 at within of a nail from the edge2 after which1 turn down the other outer crease at the proper distance from the centre of the frill1 and do the same with it2 when ready1 sew it on to the edge itself of the head-piece4 ,this frilling should stand up well1 and not he flat against the cover2 for this end1 not quite so much as of a nail should be allowed between the two seams4 ,a ribbon the same colour as the lining runs through the puffing1 and fastens the cover on in front1 while the tape or ribbon1 through the other runner1 ties it at the bottom of the head1 and draws it up to the right size4 ,,cradle ,,cover4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f1 #g1 #h4 ,a cradle merely requires a little drapery over the head1 to form curtains1 in order to guard the infant from the sun1 or from draughts of air1 while asleep1 and to give an air of comfort and cleanliness4 ,the drapery should always be perfectly white1 of dimity1 twilled muslin1 or other neat strong material4 ,some ladies put covers of thin muslin over a coloured lining1 but nothing looks so well as perfectly white curtains4 ,the dimity1 c4 should be about #a yard wide2 take two breadths of the proper length from the head of the cradle to the floor1 about #ad nails1 pin them evenly together1 and sew up the seam from ,a to ,b 7,fig4 #e71 about the distance of a yard1 but this must be determined by the cradle1 observing to sew up until it begins to curve4 ,as the curve must be cut while the material is fitted on the cradle itself1 the dimity should be pinned along the bottom of the cradle from ,a to ,e1 and also from ,a to ,b at the back4 ,then fit it accurately by pinning the breadths exactly1 though easily together1 along the curve1 allowing enough for shrinking in washing1 and when nicely fitted on1 cut off the superfluous part and stitch it along1 while on the cradle2 the rough edges may afterwards be turned over1 and hemmed down4 ,the remainder of the dimity in front1 is intended to hang over the cradle top1 to form little curtains2 hem round each side1 and connect them together with small stitches1 by running a cord up one hem1 and down the other 7,fig4 #e1 ,c ,d71 the piece is drawn up to a small compass4 ,this drawn up piece will require a bow or rosette of muslin 7see ,fig4 #h72 the whole piece may be trimmed with fringe1 or turned up with a piping1 which1 if the cover be lined with glazed coloured calico1 should be of the same4 ,a loop of cord should come from underneath1 and encircle the rosette 7see ,fig4 #h74 ,for noblemen's families1 these covers are sometimes edged with silk fringe1 or turned up with silk or satin1 to accord with a lining of the same4 ,,crib ,,covers4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,these are generally made with a horse-shoe back1 reaching from the top to the bottom of the crib2 it is piped all round1 and a piece of the proper width to go from side to side over the hoops is cut selvage-way1 and either sewn plainly or fulled on to the horse-shoe back4 ,this piece may either be finished in front like that over the cradle head1 by drawing it up1 and thus forming curtains2 or two half-breadths may be fulled evenly round to this head-piece4 ,crib covers are frequently lined with blue or other coloured calico1 which is sometimes made larger than the cover1 to admit of being turned up so as to form a little border outside4 ,,infant',s ,,hanging ,,cot4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,this is a convenient shape1 as it easily takes to pieces when not in use4 ,the sides are either made entirely of wood1 when no drapery is necessary2 but they are usually merely frames to which ticking or any other material is fixed4 ,if it is furnished with ticking1 it is laid on plain1 though almost any other material1 which will not wash is laid in plaits or fulled4 ,the material is bound all round1 and nailed on at the inner side1 after which1 an inside lining of glazed calico1 or other material is put4 ,if the material is a washing one1 glazed calico1 chintz1 twill1 or white dimity is used2 and this last is particularly neat and nice1 and in the country might be made to keep clean a long time2 the pieces should be fulled into some strong binding1 to which very small loops might be sewn1 large enough to admit of the nail to confine it firmly to the crib1 so that when the covering is removed for washing1 the loops alone are torn by the nails1 and they can be easily replaced4 ,the head drapery is similar to that of ,fig4 #af4 ,cotton fringe and gimp set all round1 both above and below1 gives a pretty finish to the whole4 ,the ropes of the cots should be often looked to1 and frequently renewed1 as they wear out quickly1 and the child's safety depends on their strength4 ,,the ,,travelling ,,cot4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #aj1aa1ab1 #ac4 ,this is a most convenient crib for mothers to use when travelling with young children1 as it is extremely light1 and can be put up in two minutes1 and if kept in a leathern case1 with straps 7see ,fig4 #aj71 it can easily be attached to the roof1 or below a carriage1 and be perfectly free from damp4 ,the stand 7see ,fig4 #ac7 is made of strong beech-wood1 and when taken to pieces1 is in seven parts4 ,the upright posts are fastened together two by two1 by the short bits of wood1 ,a and ,b1 which are screwed tight into the legs by long iron screws1 with brass heads4 ,the long bar1 ,c ,d1 connects the two sides together also1 by means of screws4 ,these screws should be attached to the posts or bars they belong to1 by a string1 as the loss of one would render the crib unsafe4 ,the lower parts of the four posts are much thicker than the upper1 to give support to the crib4 ,this is formed of five pieces of wicker-work 7see ,fig4 #aa71 the bottom and four sides4 ,the four sides are fastened firmly to the bottom1 allowing1 however1 ample room to give full play for the sides to fold backwards or forwards4 ,at each extreme corner is fastened a ring of iron1 brass1 or strong wicker-work4 ,these rings are so placed1 that when the sides are turned up to form the crib1 the two rings at each corner shall slip over the top of each post of the stand1 by which means all will remain firm4 ,the wicker crib should be #d feet long1 #b feet #f inches wide1 and #ae inches deep4 ,the one narrow end might be made deeper to give more protection to the head2 and one or two hoops might be put into a ring or staple at the sides of the wicker-work1 by which means a head-piece is easily made4 ,the stand posts should be #cj inches high1 letting from ,e to ,g be #ac inches1 from ,g to ,h1 #g inches1 and from ,h to ,j be #aj inches4 ,the head drapery might be made similar to ,fig4 #ae4 ,the lining should be very simple and easily put on2 also very warm1 on account of the open wicker-work sides4 ,wadding or flannel should be quilted well over1 between two folds of ,holland1 coloured glazed calico1 or chintz1 and made to tie on inside4 ,this lining should be very thin1 else it will take room in packing4 ,when the crib is packed up1 the posts are unscrewed1 and the basket is folded with the sides inwards1 so as to require as small a case as possible4 ,a pillow from any bed is all that would be required1 as bedding for the crib4 ,a child's cradle or crib contains the following articles3-- ,a mattress1 which should be #a nail thick1 made of ticking or ,holland1 and stuffed with wool or horse-hair4 ,some ladies have their mattresses filled with finely cut chaff1 others with sea-weed or with beech leaves4 ,chaff keeps particularly dry1 and is cool and pleasant to lie on in the summer4 ,a bed1 which should be very thin1 and made either of best feathers or down4 ,a pillow1 also thin1 and made of down4 ,three blankets1 made of thick ,welsh flannel1 and bound round with flannel binding1 or worked with coloured worsted4 ,one coverlet1 of which some can be procured made for the purpose2 or1 if not1 the material sold for toilette covers will answer as well1 if it is light4 ,a head-piece1 or drapery for the head4 ,to which may be added a pair of calico sheets1 if the child is some months old2 otherwise they are not sufficiently warm for them to lie upon3 an ,indian rubber or a leathern sheet1 to prevent the feather bed from getting wet1 and the ticking decayed2 a foot flannel1 or piece of flannel #b breadths square1 bound round1 to wrap up the child's feet4 ,,baby',s ,,basket4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,a baby's basket should be lined either with the finest dimity or cambric muslin2 in the latter case1 an inner lining of coloured glazed calico or silk is often added4 ,the cover should be very full--about three times the length round the basket1 or more4 ,after cutting the strips width-way1 and sewing together sufficient to form the length required1 make a small hem or runner along one side2 after which1 another is made about a nail or more from it1 according to the exact width of the ledge at the top of the basket4 ,upon the outer of these two runners is sewed a double frill1 and between this and the inner runner1 slits are cut in the proper places to admit the four handles1 which are neatly hemmed round4 ,at the bottom1 on the other side of the strip1 there is also a runner1 through which a cord is drawn4 ,a piece of the dimity is next fitted to the bottom of the basket1 after which1 the strip that goes round it being drawn up evenly1 it is sewed on very neatly and firmly to the bottom piece4 ,to the four corner strings are sewed1 which being passed through the straw work of the basket1 tie the cover firmly down to it4 ,the strings for the top are put in as follows3--four long pieces of cord are cut off1 about #a-yard each2 they are doubled in two1 so that one end is only a of a yard long3 these cords are sewed firmly in the runner1 each to the one side of each of the four handles1 letting the short end of the cord be drawn through the runner at that shortest side next the corner1 while the long cord has to be drawn past the handle and along to the furthest corner1 where1 on meeting the short end of another cord1 it is tied firmly under the ledge of the basket4 ,of course these cords cannot be run in until the covering is actually upon the basket4 ,it may not be considered as out of place here1 to state the usual contents of a basket1 when prepared for an infant at its birth4 ,at the bottom1 after putting in the bottle1 with its leather or parchment suck1 the other things are placed in the following order3-- ,the large flannel shawl1 the calico bed-gown1 night-flannel1 night-cap1 shirt1 napkins1 flannel cap and band1 soft towels1 sponge1 hair brush1 powder-bag1 or box4 ,quite at the top are the receiver1 the pincushion1 with large and small pins1 large pair of scissors1 and a ball of strong thread or fine twine4 ,,the ,,pincushion4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ag4 8,the satin cushion chequered o'er ,with shining pins1 this motto bore40 --,,the ,,mother4 ,one kind1 out of the numerous sorts known to every body1 is alone mentioned here1 as being the best1 on account of its steadiness and the depth1 which renders it safer1 should it chance to get into the hands of a young child4 ,it is rather longer than it is broad1 being about #g nails by #f nails1 and nearly #c nails deep4 ,this will hold the largest pins without danger of their pricking through to the other side4 ,the top and bottom should be made alike1 with a frill all round1 as seen in the ,plate4 ,these pincushions are sometimes made of muslin over satin or silk1 but1 if intended to be useful1 white dimity is by far the best4 ,,the ,,leather ,,suck ,,for ,,bottles4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,as most of the articles used by infants have been entered upon in turn1 it is considered advisable to mention also the mode of making and fastening on the leather or parchment suck to the bottle4 ,the suck is cut in the shape of the figure1 so that when doubled down the middle1 it resembles the upper part of the thumb of a glove4 ,the two sides and the top are either joined together in the button-hole stitch or back-stitch2 and if the latter1 the suck must be turned inside out1 that the smooth side may come in contact with the infant's mouth4 ,if mothers follow the rather dangerous practice of putting a bit of sponge inside the suck1 it should be first well tied round and fastened to the nose of the bottle1 and the string brought round the ledge of the hole 7see ,fig4 #ae71 and brought again to the nose of the bottle and fastened4 ,the sucks are merely fastened on by a strong thread wound round the nose4 ,,lining ,,for ,,chairs4 ,,plate #e4 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,these little chairs1 without legs1 which are so useful to set upon the table or floor1 for those children to sit in who cannot support themselves safely1 should be softly lined throughout4 ,a piece of flannel and wadding1 cut to fit the chair1 should be quilted together with the material the chair is to be covered with1 either ,holland1 chintz1 or calico4 ,the whole should be very neatly bound1 and then sewn or tacked on to the chair4 ,a little cushion1 stuffed with bran or horse-hair1 should be put for the seat4 ,these chairs should have sticks1 with large knobs to screw on at each end4 ,they should also be made with the sides or arms to lay flat1 or turn up and fasten at pleasure1 as they can1 when flat1 be easily packed in a trunk or laid under the carriage seats2 and these comforts1 when travelling1 are well worth attending to4 ,these little chairs1 when the child can walk1 come in nicely for swings1 when1 of course1 the sides require lacing up firmly4 ,for the baby's night-chair should be made a flannel cushion to sit upon4 ,three or four doubles of flannel1 cut to the size of the seat1 with a hole stitched round in the centre1 and run over in diamonds1 is both neat and serviceable4 ,a child's travelling night-stool is so great a convenience in the carriage1 during long journeys1 that it is here mentioned1 though there is little to be said as to its fitting up4 ,the lid should be covered with cloth1 stuffed well with horse-hair or wool1 to make it soft as a seat4 ,this cloth should be nailed all round with smooth brass-headed nails4 ,the lid should open with a spring1 and the seat inside be covered with soft quilted flannel or ,indian rubber cloth4 ,the pan1 which is of block-tin or crockery1 should have a lid made to fit it tightly4 ,these little stools should be about #i inches high1 and #aj inches square4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,women',s ,,shifts4 ,,plate #f4 ,shifts are generally made of fine ,irish linen or calico1 for the upper classes1 and of stout linen1 or strong but soft calico for poor children4 ,shifts are cut out differently1 according to the width of the cloth4 ,if it is wide1 the shift takes #b breadths in the skirt1 and gores are cut off from the top to sew on the bottom to widen the skirt4 ,if the cloth is still wider1 so as to admit of only #a breadth in the shift1 or else very narrow1 so that #b breadths are barely sufficient1 the shift is crossed4 ,the tops vary1 as do also the shapes of the sleeves4 ,the following are those generally worn4 ,,scale ,,for ,,gored ,,shifts4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,largest ,smaller ---------------- size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ad #ad ,quantity required for one #c44 #b #b44 #ad ,ditto ditto for six #ah44 #ab #ag44 #d ,length of skirt1 cut in one piece #b44 #ab #b44 #h ,width of piece to gore off at the top #b #b ,space to leave for the shoulders #a #a ,depth to hollow the bosom #b #b ,do4 to hollow the back #b #b ,do4 of flaps1 if preferred #c #c ,length of sleeve down the selvage for ,fig4 #a #f #f ,depth of sleeve #c #c ,size of gusset #c #c ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,second ,first ---------------- size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ac #ab ,quantity required for one #b44 #g #a44 #ae ,ditto ditto for six #ac44 #aa #i44 #aa ,length of skirt1 cut in one piece #b44 #b #a44 #aj ,width of piece to gore off at the top #b #a ,space to leave for the shoulders #a #a ,depth to hollow the bosom #b #b ,do4 to hollow the back #a #a ,do4 of flaps1 if preferred #b #b ,length of sleeve down the selvage for ,fig4 #a #e #e ,depth of sleeve #b #b ,size of gusset #b #b ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,illustration3 ,,plate #f ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #bj ,fig #h ,fig #af ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,in goring a shift1 the #b breadths may be cut in one length1 to prevent a seam on the shoulder4 ,fold your piece of cloth in two1 and pin the sides very accurately together1 or with long stitches tack them up the selvages4 ,next double the shift in half its length1 from ,a to ,b1 and put in pins to mark the crease in the middle1 ,c ,c4 ,unfold the shift and double it again very carefully the width-way1 so as to let the four selvages lie very evenly one upon another4 ,measure from the top1 ,b1 the space1 ,b ,d1 to be cut off1 crease the linen in a straight line1 from ,d to ,c1 and cut it carefully off through the four thicknesses of cloth4 ,the gores thus cut from off the top are reversed and sewed on to the bottom1 to widen the skirt4 ,the dotted lines in the ,plate shew the width of the cloth1 and the dark clear lines are intended to represent the shape of the shift4 ,when the gores are sewed in1 shifts are generally hollowed out at the back1 and may either be also hollowed in front or have a flap cut1 as seen in ,fig4 #b4 ,the hollowing at the back is not so deep as in the front1 therefore1 great care must be taken in cutting the one not to injure the shape of the other2 and in order to insure the two halves of each side being cut to correspond1 it is advisable to cut the shape of the parts to be hollowed out in paper1 to lay the paper on the linen1 and cut by it4 ,when the breadths are cut separately1 as in some cases they must be1 the seams on the shoulders should be sewed previously to the parts behind and before being hollowed4 ,if the flap in front is preferred1 it may either be cut straight down1 as in ,fig4 #b1 or in a slanting direction1 as the shoulder in ,fig4 #f4 ,this last plan is usually followed1 and a button-hole is worked near the front of the shoulder-strap1 which1 being folded over to a button sewed on the shoulder-strap of the stays1 neatly confines all straps1 c41 in the fold4 ,,scale ,,for ,,fig4 #f4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ---------------- ,first size4,second size4,third size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of shoulder-strap #d #c #c ,widest width of ditto #a #a #a ,sloped off to ,length of plaited sleeve #h #g #f ,depth of ditto #b #b #a ,size of gusset #b #a #a ,length of sleeve-band #d #c #b ,width of ditto ,length of bosom gore #a full nail #a ,width of ditto at the top #a #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,there is another mode of cutting out the top of a shift1 and1 from its simplicity and economy1 is preferable to any other4 ,the shoulder-straps are cut separately from the skirt1 which is1 consequently1 cut shorter1 and is made quite straight at the top4 ,the shift1 after being gored or crossed1 has little bosom gores put in front4 ,the top is then hemmed1 both before and behind1 and the straps put on4 ,a neat frill may be added1 to give a finish to the whole4 ,the sleeves are sometimes cut out of the width of one of the breadths of the skirt1 when the material is a little too wide2 but unless you have linen of an awkward width by you1 it is a wasteful plan1 as the strip thus cut off is generally twice as long as the quantity required for the sleeves4 ,observe1 if this plan be adopted1 to cut off the length for the sleeves all in one piece1 and not length by length from each separate breadth1 as much waste would arise from so doing4 ,if the sleeves are to be made as in ,fig4 #b1 they may be cut in one length1 sleeve and gusset together1 down the selvage 7see ,fig4 #ag1 #ah1 #ai71 and so many lengths in the width of the cloth4 ,if they are to be made according to ,fig4 #f1 an extra nail in length must be allowed for the plaiting4 ,the gussets are reduced in size1 according to the ,scale1 and a band to gather the sleeve into1 at the bottom1 is neatly stitched4 ,,crossed ,,shifts4 ,,plate #f4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d1 #e4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,largest ,second ,third ---------------- size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls,yds4 nls,yds4 nls ,width of material #a #j #ad #ab ,quantity for one1 not including sleeves #b #abb #j #b #j ,quantity for six1 not including sleeves #af #hd #j #ab #j ,length of skirt #a #fa #j #a #j ,width of skirt1 when sewed up1 should be #a #j #ad #ab ,part to mark off at top and bottom1 at opposite corners #aj #i #h ,width of skirt at the top1 when sewed up and double #aa #aj #h ,width of ditto at the bottom1 when sewed up1 and double #a #da #b #a #j ,sleeves for one #f #f #e ,sleeves for six #a #ea #j #ae ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,before crossing a shift1 sew the #b breadths or the #a breadth1 whichever it happens to be1 together1 and next1 after flattening the seams with your thumb nail1 crease the skirt1 so that these two seams shall lie exactly one upon the other1 and tack or pin them firmly together2 or1 to give a neater effect1 the seams are brought1 one in front and the other behind1 so as to divide it in exact thirds4 ,fig4 #d represents the skirt when sewn up1 ,a ,a being intended for the seam4 ,measure off #a nails at the left hand of the top ,b ,d1 and on the right hand of the bottom ,b ,d of the skirt1 and double it from ,d to ,d1 as in ,fig4 #e2 and that you may be sure your measurements are accurate1 it is better to double it again upwards1 at ,x and ,y1 so that ,b ,d at the bottom1 should lie upon ,b ,d at the top1 and the corner ,c upon ,c1 as in ,fig4 #c4 ,if they do not exactly correspond1 the shift is not correctly folded4 ,after pressing these creases with the hand1 unfold ,c from ,c1 as it was before 7see ,fig4 #e71 and cut evenly from ,d to ,d4 ,the skirt must then be turned4 ,the two wide ends are for the bottom--the two narrow ones for the top of the shift4 ,it is made up as follows3--,after sewing and felling the seams1 and hemming the bottom1 the hem at the top must be turned down1 as if for hemming1 and then turned back again and sewed all round1 which is much stronger than a common hem4 ,the sleeves are generally set in plainly1 excepting1 of course1 in those intended to be full1 as in ,fig4 #f4 ,,child',s ,,shift4 ,,plate #f4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj1 #aa4 ,this is a particularly neat pattern for a child from five years up to any age1 and is generally the first shift used after leaving off the little shirt which is seen in the baby-linen4 ,as these shifts consist of #a breadth of #i yards long1 an even number1 as #b1 #d1 or #f1 should be cut out at the same time to prevent waste4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,width of ,irish linen #ab nails ,length of ditto #i do4 ,number of breadths #a breadth ,width of shift at the top1 when gored1 and double #h nails ,width at the bottom1 when double #aa do4 ,space left for shoulders #a do4 ,depth of slit for lappets #b do4 ,depth of arm-hole #b do4 ,whole length of sleeve1 including gusset #d do4 ,depth of sleeve #a do4 ,length of shoulder-flap #c do4 ,width of ditto #a do4 ,length of lining #g do4 ,width of ditto #a do4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,two gores1 of #b nails at the top1 and of a nail at the bottom1 are cut off the whole breadth 7see ,fig4 #i71 which reduces the body to #h nails at the top1 and #aa at the bottom1 which is the proper width of the shift4 ,these gores are sewn on to the half-breadth1 which makes it exactly correspond with the other side4 ,after sewing the two halves together1 leaving #b nails from the top for the arm-holes1 cut down the slits for the bosom flaps #b nails deep1 leaving #a nail space for the shoulders4 ,next1 cut out the sleeve flaps 7see ,fig4 #aa7 of #a nail deep1 and #c nails long1 and1 after hemming them all round1 sew them with firm small stitches to the shoulder4 ,at the edge1 ,b1 sew on a piece of tape1 in which make a button-hole1 which buttons over the shoulder to the button1 ,k1 and confines all straps1 as seen in the sleeve marked ,a1 in ,fig4 #aa1 where the flap is represented as turned back over the shoulder1 as it is when worn2 whereas in the sleeve1 marked ,b1 the flap is unturned4 ,the sleeves are hemmed all round1 and then one end is turned up to form the gusset1 to one side of which the other end of the sleeve is sewn1 as in ,fig4 #ag1 #ah1 #ai2 they are then put plainly into the arm-hole1 which must be previously hemmed4 ,the lining is put in last1 and is turned down once a deep fold1 all round4 ,it is neatly felled inside to the shift4 ,the lining is #g nails long1 and #a nail wide4 ,it is sewn in a little below the arm-hole1 and carried over the shoulder to the corresponding place on the other side of the shift4 ,strings are sewn to the points of the flaps1 both before and behind4 ,children's sleeves are sometimes fulled on the shoulder4 ,the work should be close and strong4 ,the flaps are sometimes made of fine lawn1 edged with a cambric frill or worked muslin1 and allowed to lie over the shoulder1 outside the dress1 which has a clean and neat appearance4 ,a ,,secret ,,worth ,,knowing4 ,,how ,,to ,,save ,,one ,,seam ,,and ,,two ,,fells ,,in ,,making ,,up ,,two ,,shifts4 ,,plate #f4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #ae4 ,this is a useful hint for those who make up much linen at home4 ,it is done as follows3-- ,take #c breadths of the wide-width cloth1 and sew them all together like a bag2 then lay two of the seams very exactly one upon the other1 and either pin or tack them firmly together2 fold the whole piece in half1 width-wise1 so as to have four thicknesses of linen lying upon one another4 ,cross it like a common shift1 ,fig4 #ae1 measuring it top and bottom to see if it is even1 and it will cut into four pieces1 one of which1 ,fig4 #ab1 will have no seam at all2 one1 ,fig4 #ac1 will have a straight seam down the middle2 the other two1 ,fig4 #ad1 have each a piece like a gore on one side4 ,these shifts1 when neatly made1 are just as serviceable and as good as those cut in the usual way1 and it saves a great deal of work4 ,,plate #f4 ,,fig4 #h1 #af4 ,this is a pretty variety of sleeve1 and is most suitable for young children4 ,it is intended to fall over the frock4 ,fig4 #h represents the shape of the sleeve when cut out1 and ,fig4 #af when it is finished4 ,the sleeve is cut all in one piece1 taking care that the slope of the flap1 ,c1 when turned back1 corresponds with the slope of the sleeve1 ,d4 ,the sleeve and flap are frilled with cambric1 work1 or lace4 ,the advantage of this shape is1 that both sleeve and flap are in one4 ,,trowsers ,,or ,,drawers4 ,,plate #g4 ,these are worn by men1 women1 and children of all classes1 and almost all ages1 under the different names of trowsers and drawers4 ,they are made in a great variety of ways4 ,those mentioned here are the kinds most generally approved4 ,drawers for ladies and children are usually made of calico1 twill1 and cambric muslin4 ,those ladies who are invalids1 or who ride much1 frequently wear flannel or wash-leather drawers1 with or without white calico leglets4 ,for men1 drawers are composed of very strong twill1 calico1 linen1 flannel1 and stockinet4 ,,child',s ,,trowsers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b4 ,this is a child's first pair of trowsers1 and should be made of fine twill or calico4 ,each leg is cut in one piece1 and1 when folded1 is #d nails wide2 therefore1 to prevent waste1 the material should be #i nails in width4 ,cut off the #b breadths for the two legs1 of the proper length1 and observe the following directions3-- ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,nails4 ,width of material #i ,length of each breadth #i ,fold the breadth in half its width -- ,measure from ,a to ,b1 ,fig4 #b #d ,from ,e to ,c #b ,from ,f to ,b #d ---------------------------------------- ---- ,slope off from ,a to ,c1 and cut from ,a to ,b1 taking off a nail from the width at the top4 ,in making1 sew up the legs and join them at the seam in front1 leaving them open behind1 with a broad hem on each side1 formed by laying a strip of the same material at each end1 which is run at the edge on the wrong side1 turned over to hide the stitches1 and hemmed or back-stitched near the edge4 ,the legs are then tucked1 and the work or frill sewn on4 ,the whole is next set into a band1 of a nail deep when doubled1 and #e nails long1 which buttons behind4 ,shoulder-straps1 with button-holes1 are attached to the trowsers by means of buttons before and behind4 ,this plan is far more convenient than that of sewing on the straps1 as1 when they are only buttoned on1 if it is necessary to change the trowsers in the course of the day1 they may be simply unbuttoned without undressing the child1 and the clean trowsers fastened to the shoulder-straps1 which still remain over the shoulder4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #g ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #bj ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ba ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #bb ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #ag ,fig #ai ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #ah ,a ,,child',s ,,larger ,,trowsers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d4 ,this resembles ,fig4 #a and #b in every respect1 excepting that the top is sloped or hollowed at the back4 ,procure your material #aj nails wide1 to admit exactly of one leg being cut in the width4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,nails4 ,length of each breadth #aj ,fold it in half1 letting ,d be the double part -- ,from the top to ,b #a ,from ,b to ,a #d ,from ,b to ,f #d ,from ,f to ,e1 or the half-breadth #e ,from ,f to ,h #e ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,slope from ,g to ,e1 and again from ,e to ,c1 through ,a2 after which1 cut at the top of one fold from ,a to ,b1 and of the other from ,b to ,c4 ,take care to cut the pair to match1 so that the outer1 or hollowed parts of the legs should rise1 the one towards the right1 and the other towards the left side4 ,these are made up in a similar manner to ,fig4 #a4 ,,girl',s ,,trowsers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f4 ,each leg of these trowsers is also made in the entire breadth4 ,procure your material #aj nails broad4 ,cut each breadth #h nails long1 not including the tucks1 which1 if they are deep1 will add about #b nails more4 ,supposing it but #h nails long1 cut as follows1 after folding the breadth in half its width4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #a ,from ,b to ,c #d ,from ,c to ,e #c ,from ,f to ,g1 or the entire half-breadth #e ---------------------------------------- --------- ,slope from ,e to ,g4 ,cut in a straight line from ,g1 past ,c1 to ,h4 ,cut one fold from ,c to ,b1 and the other from ,h to ,b4 ,if the tucks require #b nails length in addition to the above size1 continue the width of the legs1 the same as from ,c to ,e 7#c nails71 to the end4 ,in making up1 sew the trowsers up before and behind1 and cut two slits1 one on each side1 to the depth of #c nails4 ,these slits have broad hems laid on all round them2 to form which1 cut two strips of #d nails long1 and #b nails broad2 split each length down the middle1 to within #a nail from the end 7see ,fig4 #b74 ,this strap is laid close to the edge and run all round the two sides of the slit1 turned over1 and hemmed down4 ,this false hem greatly strengthens these slits4 ,the whole is then set into two bands1 one for the front1 and the other for the back of the trowsers4 ,these bands are #e nails long1 and of a nail wide1 when doubled4 ,a button-hole is strongly worked1 in a slanting direction1 at each corner of the bands1 by which they are fastened to two buttons sewed upon the stays4 ,,trowsers ,,for ,a ,,boy ,,or ,,girl4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h1 #i4 ,this is a pretty body and trowsers1 and is very suitable to little boys1 especially if they are at all delicate1 being particularly warm4 ,the body is composed of one middle piece1 #f nails long1 and two side pieces1 #c nails long each4 ,they are #b nails deep1 and1 when sewed together1 the middle is hollowed so as to make it only #b nails4 ,the trowsers are made as follows3-- ,width of material1 #ab nails4 ,length of each breadth1 #aa nails4 ,fold each breadth in two 7see ,fig4 #h74 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #c ,from ,a to ,c #d ,from ,c to ,h1 half the breadth1 or #f ,from ,c to ,e #f ,from ,e to ,f #e ---------------------------------------- --- ,slope from ,h to ,b2 also from ,h1 past ,f1 to ,g1 at the top of the breadth1 whence it is cut to ,e1 for the hollowed fold1 while the under one is cut straight from ,e to ,f4 ,this trowser opens at the side2 there is also a small opening in front 7see ,k1 ,fig4 #g74 ,the body is hemmed all round1 and sewed on plainly to the front band of the trowser1 but it is left loose1 as in ,fig4 #g1 beyond the arm-holes on each side4 ,the two bands button to each other at the sides1 the body ties behind1 and may1 or may not be fastened also to the band of the trowsers at each side1 having button-holes to correspond with the buttons4 ,a little pocket should be sewed inside the slit down the sides1 as in ,fig4 #i1 where it is represented as if drawn out1 or turned inside out4 ,,leglets4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,these are useful to put over the legs of children's trowsers1 when they are soiled or tumbled1 before it is necessary to put on an entirely clean pair4 ,they are usually made of some finer material than the trowser itself1 and look well for an evening1 when they are of fine cambric muslin1 with open work1 or small tucks4 ,they are fastened by three or four buttons and button-holes or loops1 the buttons being sewed to the trowsers4 ,sometimes the trowser itself only reaches to the knee1 and leglets are always attached to it1 by means of small buttons2 they should be put on pretty closely1 to make the leglets fit well1 say six or eight on each leg2 button-holes are made to correspond in the leglets4 ,they are especially advantageous for children who play a great deal out of doors1 or who live in a town1 they will sometimes soil one or two pair in a day4 ,,women',s ,,drawers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #aa1 #ab4 ,these are formed of two separate legs sewed into a band1 which is made to button before or behind1 at pleasure4 ,for a moderate size1 ,fig4 #ab will be a good guide4 ,width of material1 #ad nails4 ,length of each breadth1 #ae nails4 ,fold each breadth in half its width1 letting ,d be the doubled part1 and measure as follows3-- ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #d ,from ,b to ,c #h ,from ,c to ,g #g ,from ,c to ,e #g ,cut in a straight line from ,a to ,e -- ,from ,f to ,g #a ,from ,f to ,s #e ---------------------------------------- ---- ,cut in a straight line from ,s to ,g2 cut also from ,e to ,z1 the point ,z being within a nail from the side4 ,hem the bottoms of the legs1 after sewing up the seams1 and hem round the slits1 or open part2 set them into the band1 making them overlap each other 7see ,fig4 #aa74 ,the band is #aa nails long1 and #c nails wide4 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad4 ,some persons1 both ladies and children1 wear bodies attached to their drawers1 as in the figure1 which represents a child's size4 ,procure your material #aj nails wide4 ,cut each breadth #i nails long4 ,let ,d be the doubled part1 and mark as follows3--7,fig4 #ad47 ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #b ,from ,a to ,e #d ,from ,e to ,b #e ,slope from ,b to ,b -- ,from ,e to ,g #d ,from the top to ,g #a --------------------------- ,cut from ,g to ,h1 ,h being #d nails from the doubled side4 ,cut from ,h to ,c4 ,let the body be #b nails deep1 and #aj nails long1 fold it in four1 cut out the arm-holes1 and sew on the shoulder-straps4 ,in making up the trowsers1 sew the legs together in front1 after they have been run up1 leaving them open behind1 and laying on a broad tape 7see ,t ,t1 ,fig4 #ac71 sew on the body1 and it is completed4 ,,turkish ,,trowsers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #ae1 #af4 ,these ,turkish or full trowsers are often worn by little girls4 ,procure your material #aj nails wide1 to admit one leg exactly in the breadth4 ,cut each breadth the proper length1 say #i nails long4 ,fold each breadth in half1 letting ,d be the doubled part 7,fig4 #af47 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b1 or the width of the doubled breadth #e ,from ,b to ,c #d ,from the top to ,e #a ,from ,e to ,f #d ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,cut one fold from ,e to ,f1 and the other from ,e to ,g4 ,cut from ,g to ,c in a straight line4 ,in making1 sew up from ,b to ,c1 and either gather the bottom1 ,a ,b1 into a band1 to which a frill is set on1 or else make a deep hem to admit of a ribbon1 which draws it up to the proper size1 and ties in a bow4 ,to this hem is sewed a broad frill or handsome piece of work4 ,the latter is the most convenient plan of the two for the washerwoman1 as the leg will lie quite flatly to be ironed4 ,,trowsers ,,for ,a ,,little ,,boy4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah1 #ai4 ,this is a particularly good pattern1 and very suitable for a boy4 ,procure your material #aj nails wide1 to admit of one leg in the breadth4 ,cut each breadth #g nails long4 ,double the leg so as to leave #b nails unfolded1 or rather1 fold it to within two nails of the selvage4 ,let ,d1 ,fig4 #ai1 be the doubled part4 ,from ,a to ,b is #b nails1 and is not double4 ,from ,b to ,c is #d nails1 the one fold being cut in a slight curve from ,b to ,c1 and in a sweep from ,a to ,c4 ,the bottom of the leg is #c nails wide4 ,slope from ,g to ,c1 ,g being nearly #b nails from the bottom4 ,the body is #aj nails long1 and #b nails deep2 fold it in four1 and cut out the arm-holes 7see ,fig4 #ah74 ,in making1 sew up each leg from ,k to ,g1 and hem round every other part2 next1 make the body1 hemming it all round1 after which1 sew the legs firmly to the body1 making the flap1 ,a ,l ,c1 of one leg1 overlap or lie across the flap of the other leg4 ,these two flaps1 after being firmly set into the band1 are farther secured by back-stitching them together along the dotted line4 ,fig4 #ag4 ,,men',s ,,drawers4 ,,plate #g4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba1 #bb4 ,these are men's strong drawers1 made of coarse twill or calico4 ,procure your material #ad nails wide4 ,cut each breadth #ac nails long4 ,fold the breadths in half1 letting ,d1 ,fig4 #bj1 be the doubled part4 ,the drawers are quite straight at the top1 the piece1 ,c ,h ,f1 being an extra bit put in 7see ,fig4 #bj74 ,illustration3 ,,plate #h ,fig #a ,fig #d ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #e ,fig #af ,fig #ai ,fig #b ,fig #f ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #bj ,fig #c ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #ba ,fig #be ,fig #i ,fig #bb ,fig #aj ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #aa ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #c ,from ,c to ,e #d ,from the top to ,g #e ,from ,f to ,e --------------------------- ,cut from ,g to ,b1 and one fold from ,g to ,e2 the other is from ,g to ,f4 ,a triangular piece is put in at the top of the back1 of #c nails in continuation from ,f to ,h4 ,the pair of drawers has two bands of about #g nails long each1 and #a nail deep1 when doubled4 ,in making1 sew up the legs1 and put on the extra piece at the back4 ,sew the two legs together at the back1 and hem the slit on each side in front4 ,set each leg into a separate band1 leaving them open before and behind4 ,work four little oylet-holes in the band behind1 to admit tapes1 which are laced through them and tie2 in front1 metal buttons are put1 and button-holes made4 ,down each leg1 in the front1 a broad tape or piece of strong calico is laid1 to strengthen it4 ,a slit of about #b nails long is made at the bottom of each leg4 ,broad tape is laid on round each leg at the bottom1 forming a sort of hem1 and oylet holes are worked on each side of the slit1 for tape to come out at1 which draws them to the proper size4 ,fig4 #bj represents the back of the drawers cut out4 ,fig4 #ba represents the back of the drawers made up4 ,fig4 #bb represents the front of the drawers made up4 ,,woman',s ,,night-,,jacket4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,,scale ,,of ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,woman4 ,girl of ,girl of #ah yrs4 #ab yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ad #ad #ab ,quantity required for one #b #aj #b #c #a #ac ,quantity required for six #ae #a #ac #b #aj #ad ,quantity required for twelve #ca #h #bf #d #ba #ab ,whole length of body to be doubled #a #h #a #d #a #j ,space to leave for shoulders #c #b #b ,length of sleeves down the selvage #aj #h #f ,width of ditto1 two in breadth #g #g #f ,length of collar down the selvage #h #g #f ,width of ditto1 or four in the width #c #c #c ,length of wristband down the selvage #d #c #c ,width of ditto1 or four in the breadth #c #c #c ,length of binder down the selvage #d #c #c ,width of ditto #a #a #a ,size of sleeve-gusset #c #b #b ,size of neck-gusset #a #a #a ,width of frill #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,night jackets for the higher classes are made of linen1 lawn1 cambric muslin1 and fine calico2 also of dimity and twilled calico2 and for the lower orders1 of linen or calico4 ,the calico should be soft and strong2 and the unbleached or grey calico1 as it is usually called by ,linen ,drapers1 is warmer and often more durable than the white4 ,fig4 #a represents the plan or picture of a piece of cloth of the proper width1 on which all the parts for forming a woman's jacket are accurately marked1 with the exception of the shoulder-straps1 which1 as they do not fit in1 might be made of any extra bits4 ,cut out the two breadths of the skirt in one length1 to avoid a seam on the shoulder4 ,fold it very exactly in half1 and1 after leaving #c nails at each end of the folded side1 to allow for the shoulders1 slit open the neck from ,a to ,g1 after which1 measure carefully and find the middle of the neck1 ,c1 and slit it down to the bottom1 ,d1 to form the opening in front of the jacket4 ,the sleeves1 which are #aj nails long1 and the two cut in the width1 are either sloped off towards the wrist1 fulled into a wristband1 as in ,fig4 #aj1 or else neatly run1 at a sufficient distance from the edge1 to form a kind of frill 7,fig4 #i74 ,this running is done in two rows1 extended nearly all round the cuff1 and neatly stretched upon a piece of tape1 which is laid inside1 and carried all round the cuff4 ,fig4 #c represents a plan for cutting out twelve jackets1 which is the most economical number1 cut out at once1 to avoid waste4 ,the pieces in the ,plate are marked with the initial letter for their use1 and the width of the piece1 thus1 ,s #g1 signifies sleeve #g nails wide4 ,on the left hand of the plan is marked the length of each piece1 and on the right hand is set down the number of those lengths required to be cut to form the set complete1 thus1 #ab ,l means #ab lengths4 ,the frills are generally of fine lawn or cambric1 or else corded1 jaconet1 checked1 or other muslins4 ,,night-,,gown4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,woman4 ,girl of ,girl of #ah yrs4 #ad yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of material1 if gored #ae #ad #ab ,width of gore to be cut off each #a #a #b side at the top #a #a #b ,width of the bottom will be #ah #ag #af ,width across the top will be #aa #aj #h ,quantity required for one #d #a #c #h #c #j ,quantity required for two #g #ac #f #h #e #aa ,length of skirt #a #j #a #j #a #j ,depth of slit in front #f #f #e ,space to leave for shoulders #b #b #b ,slope of shoulders #a #a ,width of binders #b #a #a ,length of ditto down the selvage #h #h #h ,width of sleeves or two in the breadth #g #g #f ,length of sleeves down the selvage #i #h #h ,width of wristband 7if required7 #b #b #b ,length of wristband down the selvage #d #c #c ,size of sleeve-gusset #c #b #c ,depth of frill #a #a ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,this shape is not so much worn as that of ,fig4 #d1 nor perhaps has it so neat and finished an appearance1 but on many accounts it is the most desirable1 being in the first place1 more economical2 it also washes more easily1 and above all1 is particularly convenient in time of sickness1 when it is very essential to a weak or suffering person to be able to draw open the gown at the neck and wrists1 so as to have full play for the arms in changing her linen1 or having blisters1 leeches1 c4 applied2 whereas those night dresses confined at the neck in collars are very irksome1 and cause much unnecessary suffering in being removed4 ,the scale and plans so clearly explain the size1 shape1 c4 that nothing remains to be said1 except that a band is sometimes worn round the waist1 with a narrow frill sewn round the ends1 which are sloped off1 according to fancy4 ,it is better economy to cut three or six gowns together1 as the gussets1 binders1 c4 take about the third of a breadth1 so that in cutting out one1 there is an unavoidable waste of the other two-thirds of a breadth4 ,the two sleeves cut in the width1 and are1 for the largest size1 #i nails long4 ,,another ,,night ,,gown4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,it is more economical to buy your material of a sufficient width to merely gore it1 if only one gown is to be cut out4 ,it is better to cross the skirt1 and use #a breadth of very wide material1 if six are to be cut4 ,,scale ,,for ,,crossed ,,skirt4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,girl of ,girl of ---------------- ,woman4 #ah yrs4 #ad yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ah #af #ad ,quantity required for six #ah #ad #af #ae #ae #j ,length of skirt #a #j #a #f #a #c ,width of ditto #a breadth#a breadth#a breadth ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,piece to mark off at top and #g #g #f bottom for crossing leaving #ajleaving #i leaving #h ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,width of bottom when crossed #ba #ah #af ,width of top when crossed #ae #ad #ab ,length of sleeve down the selvage #i #h #g ,width of sleeve #i #h #g ,length of binder down the selvage #aj #h #g ,width of binder #a #a #a ,length of collar down the selvage #h #f #e ,width of collar #c #b #b ,length of wristband down the selvage #d #c #c ,width of wristband #b #b #b ,size of sleeve-gusset #c #b #b ,size of neck-gusset #b #a #a ,depth of slit in front #f #f #f ,space to leave for shoulders #c #b #b ,width of frill #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,scale ,,for ,a ,,gored ,,gown4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,woman4 ,girl of ,girl of ---------------- #ah yrs4 #ad yrs4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ae #ae #ad ,piece to be gored off at each end of the top #a #a #a ,length of skirt #a #j #a #f #a #c ,width of sleeve #g #g #g ,width of binders #b #b #a ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,all the other parts are the same as in the scale for the crossed gown4 ,in cutting out six crossed gowns1 tear off the #i breadths for the skirts1 allowing #a breadth to each2 after which1 cut off the #f lengths 7#i nails long each7 for the sleeves2 two sleeves cut in the width4 ,next cut off a piece #aj nails long1 which divide width-way into twelve binders of #a nail wide each4 ,afterwards1 cut off another breadth of #h nails long1 to divide width-way into six collars of #d nails width4 ,the gussets will require two breadths of #c nails deep1 to be divided width-way also1 in six of #c nails width4 ,the wristbands are #d nails long2 and as only nine of #b nails width can be cut in #a breadth1 the remaining three must be cut off a second breadth1 which will leave sufficient cloth over1 exactly to cut the #ab neck-gussets1 in two rows deep of #b nails square4 ,by this arrangement1 no waste whatever is made4 ,the one gored gown is cut according to the scale2 ,fig4 #h is a bosom-bit1 which adds much to the strength of the slit4 ,it is impossible to cut out one of these gowns alone1 without a little waste4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,this is an exceedingly neat looking night-dress1 and for full size is cut according to the following dimensions4 ,cut two breadths of #a yard wide1 and #a yard long each1 and sew up the seams1 leaving #c nails from the top for arm-holes4 ,cut out two shoulder-pieces according to ,fig4 #g1 which represents half1 the letter ,d being the doubled part4 ,if it is made of calico1 put a neat piping round the one shoulder-piece1 as it materially strengthens the night-dress2 and after fulling the skirt evenly round to the other1 and setting in the sleeves1 lay the upper shoulder-piece over the lower one4 ,pipe and frill it up the neck1 and if preferred1 a collar may be added1 with a second frill above4 ,if the night-dress is made of linen1 it must be neatly stitched instead of piped4 ,the sleeves are #h nails square1 and the wristband1 as in ,fig4 #aa1 #d nails square1 to which a frill is added4 ,,flannel ,,waistcoat ,,for ,a ,,lady4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,cut a piece of flannel #ab nails wide1 and #g nails deep2 fold it in two1 and at #b full nails from the middle or doubled part1 cut the arm-holes1 which are #b full nails wide1 and #a nail deep1 leaving #b nails for half the back2 hollow the front half a nail4 ,at the bottom of the waistcoat1 immediately under the arm-holes1 cut a slit upwards to the distance of #c nails1 and put into these slits1 gores of #c nails wide at the bottom1 sloped off to a point1 being #c nails long4 ,these gores are differently cut to most others1 being sloped equally on both sides1 instead of having one side straight1 so that the point is in a straight line with the middle of the gore at the bottom 7see ,fig4 #ab74 ,cut two other slits to admit of bosom gores of similar shape1 but smaller size1 being #a nail broad1 and #a nail long4 ,they are put in #a nail from the shoulder-strap4 ,in making up1 herring-bone all round the waistcoat2 the slits and gores1 and the seams also1 are herring-boned with strong thread1 the seams being turned flatly back1 and laid side by side on the finger1 so that the one row of herring-boning shall join the two compactly together 7see ,fig4 #ae74 ,some persons lay a broad tape1 say a nail wide1 down the front1 on which the buttons are sewed1 and button-holes worked4 ,tape shoulder-straps complete the whole4 ,this waistcoat buttons in the front4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,waistcoat4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad4 ,the following size is suitable for a child of #ab years old3-- ,the waistcoat is made in three parts2 the middle piece should be #g nails wide1 and #f nails deep2 the side-pieces must be the same depth1 and #e nails wide4 ,sew up the seams1 and fold the waistcoat in four1 like a pinafore1 then cut out the arm-holes1 which1 while thus doubled1 are #a nail in width1 and the same in depth2 the waistcoat is then opened1 and hollowed out in the front 7see ,fig4 #ac74 ,in making up1 tape is sewed all round the edge1 at the inside1 and broad tapes down the sides1 in which the button-holes are cut4 ,straps are sewed on1 and the whole is finished4 ,a ,,waistcoat ,,for ,,an ,,invalid ,,boy ,,of ,,the ,,working ,,class4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,take a breadth and a half of flannel1 each #i nails long1 and sew them together1 leaving them open in the front4 ,fold the waistcoat in four1 and cut the shoulders1 and slits for the arm-holes1 as in a pinafore2 the shoulders are #a nail deep1 and the arm-holes #b nails long4 ,hollow it a little at the top1 and after sewing up the shoulders1 gather it at the top into a tape the proper length 7say #e nails74 ,put in sleeves without gussets1 which are #g nails long1 and #d nails wide before being sewed up2 hem the fronts1 and lay on a broad tape at the inside of the hem1 in which the button-holes are made2 herring-bone the bottom and sleeves4 ,a ,,man',s ,,under ,,waistcoat4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah4 ,this is generally made of fine calico1 and is cut out according to the ,plate4 ,for the back 7,fig4 #ag71 cut your paper pattern #i nails long1 and #g nails wide3 double it in half its width1 and1 as in the ,plate1 letting ,d be the doubled part1 mark as follows3-- ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to the top #a ,from ,b to the doubled side #a ,c is half way1 and from ,c to the side ,f #a ,from ,e to the doubled side #b ---------------------------------------- --------- ,curve from ,a to ,b1 and from ,a through ,c to ,e4 ,the front is cut as follows3--,let your pattern be #aa nails long1 and #h nails wide 7see ,plate #h1 ,fig4 #ah74 ,,scale4 --------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #i ,from ,b to ,c #b ,from ,c to ,d #b ,the shoulder1 from ,d1 slopes ,length of the shoulder #b --------------------------------------- ,the arm-hole is sloped1 and is rather difficult to manage1 but by looking at the ,plate1 and following the directions1 as nearly as possible1 the same shape may be attained4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,nails4 ,from the arm-hole1 ,s1 to the side #c ,from the bottom1 ,t1 to the side #e ,from the point1 ,r1 to the top #b ,from the side to ,r #a ---------------------------------------- ---- ,curve from ,r to the bottom1 also from ,d to ,b1 and cut out the arm-hole4 ,in making up1 sew the pieces together1 lay on a broad piece of calico all down the front1 lay a tape round the neck1 and set on your buttons down the front1 with button-holes to correspond4 ,this shape1 but varying of course in size1 will do for boys of all ages4 ,,boy',s ,,vest ,,or ,,upper ,,waistcoat4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,this is made of cloth1 jean1 or nankeen4 ,the size here given1 would suit a boy ten or eleven years old4 ,the vest is in three parts1 viz4--one back and two fronts4 ,to cut out the front 7,fig4 #ai71 let your paper pattern be #c nails wide1 by #d nails long4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from the corner to ,e is #b ,from the top to ,a ,from the side to ,a ,from ,b to each side #a ,from ,c to the top #a ---------------------------------- ,curve in for the arm-hole1 from ,e to ,a1 cut from ,a to ,b1 and curve from ,b to ,c4 ,for the back 7,fig4 #bj71 let your paper be #e nails long1 by #c nails wide4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from the top to ,a ,from the corner to ,b #a ,from the side to ,c #a ,from the top to ,c ,from the top to ,f #b ,from the corner to ,e ------------------------------ ,curve slightly from ,a to ,b1 cut in a straight line from ,b to ,c1 hollow for the arm-hole from ,c to ,f1 cutting into the cloth about #a nail1 slope from ,f to ,e4 ,in making up1 join the two shoulders together1 then sew ,e ,g1 ,fig4 #ai1 to ,f ,e1 ,fig4 #bj2 line it1 bind with galloon or tape round the neck1 arm-holes1 waist1 and up the fronts1 put on buttons1 and make button-holes to correspond in front4 ,buttons are also put on round the waist1 to which the trowsers are to button1 as no braces are worn with this vest4 ,,child',s ,,night ,,vest4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #ba1 #bb4 ,some children are in the habit 7when in bed7 of kicking off their sheets2 and it is very desirable for such to wear fine flannel or demet waistcoats under their night-gowns in winter1 and calico ones in summer1 to prevent their catching cold4 ,these waistcoats or vests1 if for children under five or six1 may be cut two in the width of the flannel1 and about #h1 #aj1 or #ab nails long1 according to the size of the child4 ,after cutting off the pieces required1 fold each in half its length1 and sew up the side-seams1 leaving #a nail from the top on each side1 to form the arm-holes1 which are neatly herring-boned round4 ,the top is hollowed thus3 leave about #a nail on each folded side for the shoulders1 and hollow down to #a nail in front1 for the bosom1 and to #a nail behind1 for the back4 ,herring-bone flatly all round1 and the vest is completed4 ,,child',s ,,day ,,vest4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #bc1 #bd4 ,delicate children are often recommended to wear flannel shirts or vests next their skin4 ,they should be of the finest flannel1 with plenty of nap1 which should be next the skin4 ,these are cut much in the same shape as babies' second shirts 7see ,plate #b1 ,fig4 #cj71 excepting that the back is hollowed out1 and it has no sleeves4 ,two shirts might be cut in the width1 of #h or #aj nails long4 ,when folded in two1 and sewed up at the seams1 leaving #a nail for the arm-hole1 the front should be cut4 ,leave #a nail in each folded side for the shoulders1 cut down nearly straight to #a nail for a front flap1 and slope down behind to the same depth4 ,,bathing ,,gown4 ,,plate #h4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,bathing gowns are made of blue or white flannel1 stuff1 calimanco1 or blue linen4 ,as it is especially desirable that the water should have free access to the person1 and yet that the dress should not cling to1 or weigh down the bather1 stuff or calimanco are preferred to most other materials3 the dark coloured gowns are the best for several reasons1 but chiefly because they do not shew the figure1 and make the bather less conspicuous than she would be in a white dress4 ,as the width of the materials1 of which a bathing gown is made1 varies1 it is impossible to say of how many breadths it should consist4 ,the width at the bottom1 when the gown is doubled1 should be about #ae nails3 fold it like a pinafore1 slope #c nails for the shoulders1 cut or open slits of #c nails long for the arm-holes2 set in plain sleeves #d nails long1 #c nails wide1 and make a slit in front #e nails long4 ,in making up1 delicacy is the great object to be attended to4 ,hem the gown at the bottom1 gather it into a band at the top1 and run in strings2 hem the opening and the bottom of the sleeves1 and put in strings4 ,a broad band should be sewed in about half a yard from the top1 to button round the waist4 ,,women',s ,,caps4 ,women's caps are generally made of checked1 spotted1 clear1 or twilled muslin1 widow's lawn1 and if for night-caps for the poor1 sometimes of soft fine calico4 ,the borders are of corded1 cambric1 jaconet1 or clear muslin1 and are sometimes1 for ladies' caps1 edged with narrow lace1 or are made entirely of hemmed net4 ,,woman',s ,,day ,,or ,,night-,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b ,this is a favourite shape for a day-cap among the poor4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,width of checked muslin #a #j ,width of crown to cap1 four in the width of material1 #f or1 ,length of crown down the selvage #f ,width of puffing or head-piece1 twenty-four in width of material1 or1 #a ,length of ditto down the selvage #ad ,width of bands to confine the puffing1 #dh in the width1 or1 ,length of bands down the selvage #g ,width of strings1 forty-eight in the breadth ,length of strings down the selvage #g ,quantity of material for one cap #ad ,quantity of material for twenty-four #d #c ,length of bordering to each1 three breadths of #af ,depth of bordering down the selvage #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,observe1 that in the ,plates the letter ,d always stands for the doubled part of the muslin4 ,in cutting out these caps1 it is by far the most economical to cut out #bd at a time1 as1 if half that number is cut1 half the width of the length of cloth from which the puffing is cut1 is wasted1 whereas the #bd exactly fit in4 ,the crown must be rounded off at the top1 for which purpose1 double it in half its width1 and at #b nails from the top corner each way1 round1 or slope off the piece from ,a to ,b 7see ,plate #i1 ,fig4 #a74 ,the cap is made up as follows3-- ,double the bands in two1 and turn down the edges as if for sewing4 ,hem the crown-piece with a very narrow hem up each side1 to the distance of half a nail1 and sew it firmly to each end of one of the bands2 after which1 whip and stroke evenly the remaining part of the crown1 and sew it to the rest of the band in the middle4 ,to the other side of the band1 full on the head-piece or puffing1 which is afterwards confined on the other side by being whipped and sewed to the second band4 ,the double border is sewed on in front1 and a single one behind1 where previously there has been a pretty deep hem made1 to admit of strings to draw behind4 ,these strings are sewed into the cap1 each at the opposite end of the hem to that on which it comes out4 ,the strings are hemmed at the end1 being either pointed or rounded1 according to taste4 ,some ladies prefer their being #a nail wide and rounded at the end1 with a narrow frill or edging sewed on to the distance of #c or #d nails round the ends4 ,a ,,very ,,neat ,,night-,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d1 #e1 #f4 ,this1 when made of checked muslin1 with a border of corded muslin1 has a very pretty appearance1 and is particularly comfortable for a night-cap1 as it sets close to the head4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #i ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ag ,fig #c ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ah ,fig #bh ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #ai ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bd ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #be ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #bf ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #ah ,length of head-piece down the selvage #ad ,width of ditto #d ,length of horse-shoe down the selvage #c ,width of ditto #b ,length of strings down the selvage #g ,width of ditto ,quantity of material for eight #b #c ,quantity of bordering1 #c breadths of muslin in width #af ,depth of ditto #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,the most economical number of caps of this pattern to cut at once1 is eight1 and should be done as follows1 to prevent waste 7see ,fig4 #c74 ,tear off two lengths of #ad nails1 which1 when torn each in four1 will form the eight head-pieces4 ,the horse-shoe crowns must be cut in two rows deep1 four in each row1 of #b nails wide1 which will require #aj nails of the breadth1 leaving a piece #h nails wide and #g nails long4 ,this piece will cut the eight pairs of strings1 which are each half a nail wide1 and #g nails long4 ,after cutting out the cap1 shape the head-pieces according to ,fig4 #d in the ,plate1 by which it will be seen that #a nail is taken off in a direct line from ,a to ,b4 ,the piece for the horse-shoe crown must be folded1 and rounded carefully at the top1 and then sloped off in a direct line1 thus cutting off half a nail from each side4 ,in making up the cap1 place the straight part of the head-piece in front1 and put two runners1 besides hem1 at equal distances from each other in front1 say of a nail4 ,whip the back neatly1 and after hemming the horse-shoe crown1 sew the head-piece firmly to it4 ,some people hem a cord round the horse-shoe which gives it a greater firmness1 and looks like a piping when the head-piece is sewed in1 as it ought to be1 to the bottom1 instead of the top of the hem4 ,a hem is made at the bottom of the cap for a string to draw4 ,double borders in front1 a single one behind1 and the strings sewed on1 complete the cap4 ,a ,,young ,,servant',s ,,neat ,,day-,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h4 ,this shape is generally made of clear muslin1 widow's lawn1 or jaconet1 and is particularly adapted for girls on first going to service1 from its neat simplicity4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,nails4 ,best width of material #af or #bd ,width of cap #h ,length down the selvage #e ,quantity required for four caps1 if yard wide #aj ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,the cap is folded in half the width1 and cut according to ,fig4 #g4 ,the side marked ,d is the doubled part4 ,mark on the opposite side #b nails from the top1 ,e1 and slope or hollow out a piece from ,e to ,h very gradually1 letting the greater width of the piece thus hollowed out not exceed half a nail4 ,next slope off gradually from ,h to ,l at the distance of a nail from the bottom2 after which1 cut the straight line ,e ,k1 which is #a nail in length1 the letter ,k being situated about of a nail from the side and #a from the top1 and then slope gradually to ,m4 ,in making up the cap1 sew from ,e to ,k1 and gather in the top from ,k to ,m1 as in ,fig4 #h4 ,a single or double border is put in front4 ,this is a small size4 ,fig4 #ah1 #ai1 #bg1 and #bh are different shaped strings for caps4 ,,another ,,neat ,,cap ,,for ,,servants4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj4 ,this shape is particularly liked by the poor1 from the ease with which it is made up and washed1 as1 upon undrawing the string1 it opens readily at the top1 and lies quite flat to be ironed4 ,as the shape is peculiar1 if many are to be cut at once1 it would be the least wasteful plan to cut out on a doubled piece of paper1 the pattern of the cap1 according to ,fig4 #i2 open it out and lay it on the material in such directions as to cut to most advantage4 ,if only one is to be cut1 procure a piece of muslin #h nails wide and #e nails long2 which1 when folded evenly in half its width1 shape as follows1 according to the ,plate4 ,the side marked ,d is the doubled part2 from ,e at the bottom to ,f is #b nails4 ,from the top1 ,g to ,h1 measure #b nails1 and cut off in a sloping line from ,i1 at the top of the doubled corner1 to ,h1 again cut from ,h to ,f1 after which cut off from ,f to about a nail above ,e1 and then the shape of the cap is formed4 ,strings of the usual size1 nail wide and #g nails long1 complete the cap4 ,in making it up1 sew from ,h to ,y1 and then hem all round the open part along ,y to ,i1 and sew on a full frill of nail deep1 and about #ah nails long4 ,afterwards hem the front and back of the cap1 put double borders in front1 and a single one behind1 of #a nail deep1 and #c breadths of #af or #ah nails wide4 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #aa1 #ab4 ,this is a very simple shape1 and for washing and making up is equally convenient with ,fig #aj4 ,it answers well for a bonnet cap for ladies1 in which case it might be made of net or tulle1 with a quilling or lace border4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #b ,width of cap without runners #d ,length of cap down the selvage #i ,sloped off at the bottom from ,c to ,a ---------------------------------------- ------- ,fold the cap in half its length1 making ,d the doubled part 7see ,fig4 #aa74 ,sew and fell from ,a to ,b1 to the depth of #a nail1 and hem round the rest of the opening behind1 to admit of a ribbon4 ,let there be two runners besides the hem in front1 to admit of tape or narrow ribbon4 ,the border must depend upon the purpose for which the cap is intended3 if for a night-cap1 a double border in front and single behind will be required3 if for a bonnet cap1 a double border or quilling only1 in front will be sufficient4 ,it may be as well also to remark1 that if it is meant for a night-cap1 the length of the cap down the selvage should be greater1 say #aa or #ab nails2 and the width of the material1 to cut to the best advantage1 must1 of course1 be either exactly the same1 or double4 ,a ,,neat ,,school-,,girl',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #h ,length of the crown down the selvage #f ,width of the crown1 or three in the breadth #h ,length of the head-piece down the selvage #h ,width of the head-piece1 or twelve in the breadth #b ,quantity required for twelve caps without strings #b #j ,quantity required for twelve caps with strings #b #ab ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,this pattern needs little further explanation1 the shape and size are so clearly given in the ,plate4 ,the head-piece is sloped off at the ears1 beginning to cut at #a nail above the corner1 to #a nail beyond the corner1 at the bottom of the cap4 ,this cap is for school girls1 and is particularly neat if of checked muslin with corded muslin frills4 ,a ,,favourite ,,cap ,,for ,,ladies ,,and ,,poor ,,women4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #ae1 #af1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #h ,width of crown-piece1 three in the width #h ,length of ditto down the selvage #f ,width of head-piece1 twelve in the breadth #b ,length of ditto down the selvage #h ,length of weepers 7if wanted7 down the selvage #b ,width of ditto1 sixteen in the breadth #a ,length of bands down the selvage 7if wanted7 #a #ad ,width of ditto1 twelve in the width #b ,quantity required for twelve caps1 without extras #b #b ,quantity for twelve1 if with weepers #b #e ,quantity for twelve1 if complete with bands #d #c ,width of bordering #a ,length of ditto1 two breadths width #a #h ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,this cap is pretty and not expensive if made without the band and weepers1 which1 of course1 add much to the cost2 twelve is the best number to cut out at once4 ,they are generally made for ladies of sprigged muslin1 when the head-piece should be of strong muslin or fine calico4 ,the borders are cambric1 muslin1 or net1 edged with ,valenciennes lace1 or other neat trimming4 ,the weepers are also frilled and edged1 as also the rounded ends of the band4 ,the crown is sloped off a little at the corner1 as seen in ,fig4 #af1 at ,a1 which is about #b nails from the corner4 ,the weepers are also shaped to a point1 as in ,fig4 #ai 7see ,b74 ,the band 7,fig4 #ah7 is gathered in at about #a nail from the end1 which is rounded1 with edging sewed on4 ,the middle of the band is plaited1 and sewed firmly on to the middle of the head-piece1 in front4 ,a ,,neat ,,comfortable ,,day ,,or ,,night-,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,this is a shape particularly suitable for day-caps for young servants1 or night-caps for any age or station4 ,if intended for day-caps1 they should be made of clear or jaconet muslin2 if for night-caps1 of check or calico4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #j ,length of head-piece down the selvage #h ,width of ditto1 or four in the width #d ,length of crown down the selvage #f ,width of ditto1 or four in the width #d ,quantity required for four caps without strings #ad ,quantity required for twelve caps without strings #b #aj ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,cap strings1 for any number of caps not exceeding sixteen1 require seven additional nails1 as sixteen pairs exactly cut in the width1 so that sixteen caps would he the most economical number to cut4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,the head-piece is a little sloped off at the ear from ,a to ,b1 and is made up double1 so as to be only #b nails deep1 when the cap is completed4 ,,another ,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,this shape is very suitable for a servant's day or bonnet cap2 it is simple and pretty in appearance1 and not expensive4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #j ,length of crown down the selvage #g ,width of ditto1 or four in the width #f ,length of band down the selvage #h ,width of band#a #a ,quantity required for twelve caps with strings #a #ac ---------------------------------------- ----------------- #a ,the remainder of the breadth from which the bands are cut will make strings4 ,in making it up1 the band is doubled in half1 the crown whipped and sewed to it1 leaving it plain from ,a to ,b1 for the space of #a nail4 ,a double border is sewn on in front4 ,,an ,,old ,,woman',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #bb1 #bc4 ,this shape is generally preferred by old women1 as it sets comfortably over the ears4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #ba ,length of head-piece down the selvage #g ,width of ditto1 or twelve in the breadth #a ,length of crown down the selvage #i ,width of ditto at the widest part1 or three in the width #g ,width of ditto when sloped off at the bottom #e ,quantity required for twelve caps without strings #b #aa ,additional quantity for strings #g ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,it is almost impossible to cut out a number of these caps without a little waste4 ,the head-pieces1 when torn off1 are #g nails long1 and #a wide2 double them in half their length1 and then slope off from ,a to ,b1 one nail4 ,the straight part is the front1 to which a border is sewed4 ,the crown is next shaped1 according to ,fig4 #bc1 for which purpose1 double the piece in half its width1 and from the corner1 ,b1 measure #g nails on the side to ,a1 and #a nail on the bottom1 to ,c1 and cut off in a straight line from ,a to ,c4 ,round off the corner at the top1 from ,a to ,d4 ,the crown is sewed on plain for the space of #a nail from the bottom1 and then evenly fulled into the remainder of the head-piece4 ,a ,,poor ,,woman',s ,,night-,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,this shape is sometimes made of linen1 but generally of strong calico or check4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #ah ,length of head-piece down the selvage #i ,width of ditto1 or twelve in the breadth #a ,size of squares in which to cut out the circular crown1 or two in the breadth #i ,quantity required for twelve caps without strings #c #ae ,additional quantity for twelve pair of strings #g ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,the head-piece is sloped off1 as in ,fig4 #bd1 from ,a1 which is #a nail above the corner1 ,b1 to ,c4 ,the crown1 after being rounded1 is evenly fulled into the head-piece1 which latter is sewed neatly together behind1 at the opening1 ,d ,c4 ,,another ,,cap4 ,,plate #i4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh4 ,this is a pretty shape for almost any purpose1 and in any thin material2 it is cut out in front very much in the same manner that a baby's cap is cut behind1 which will be seen if the ,plate is turned round1 so as to place the doubled part1 ,d1 at the top4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,best width of material #a #h ,length of cap down the selvage #e ,width of ditto1 or three in the breadth #h ,depth from ,f to ,a #a ,space from ,a to ,b1 to be cut #a ,length to be cut from ,b to ,c #b ,then slope gradually1 in a circular direction1 from ,e to ,c ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,in making up the cap1 sew neatly from ,a to ,b1 and then full in the part from ,e to ,c1 evenly to the part between ,c and ,b2 a hem in the front and at the back1 is next made for a ribbon or tape1 and a small bow1 either of the same material 7see ,fig4 #ag71 or white or coloured ribbon may be put at ,b 7,fig4 #bh74 ,,bathing ,,cap4 ,these are made of oil-silk1 and are worn1 when bathing1 by ladies who have long hair4 ,cut a piece of oil-silk1 #d nails long and #h nails wide2 double it so as to make a square2 let the doubled part be the back of the cap1 and slope off the corner at the top1 towards the back1 in a curve1 so as to shape it to the form of the back of the head4 ,sew up along the top of the bathing cap1 binding it with tape at the seam1 both at the top and in the front4 ,lay on a tape behind to form a hem1 making oylet-holes at the ears1 and passing a string through each oylet-hole1 which is fastened down at the opposite side2 these strings draw up the cap1 when worn1 to the size required4 ,it is advisable1 however1 for those who have not long hair1 to bathe in plain linen caps1 so as to admit the water without the sand or grit1 and thus the bather1 unless prohibited on account of health1 enjoys all the benefit of the shock without injuring the hair4 ,these caps are often worn by children when the head is shaved1 if subject to diseases in the head1 as ring-worm1 scald-head1 c4 ,,dressing-,,gowns4 ,,plate #aj4 ,dressing-gowns are generally made of warm materials1 for the winter1 as flannels1 either printed or plain1 merino1 shawl1 either the real or imitation1 and for gentlemen1 of cloth or jean4 ,for summer1 they are of dimity1 calico1 twilled muslin1 and sometimes1 though rarely1 of silk4 ,there are various ways of making them2 only a few of the most approved shapes will be here mentioned4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,a ,,plain ,,useful ,,shape1 ,,especially ,,for ,,men4 ,this gown is made with a deep hem turned up1 and a strong piping at the top of it4 ,it is divided into four1 and the arm-holes left in the two front seams1 sloping the flannel #a nail deep1 and #b nails long1 for the shoulders4 ,the neck-gusset is put in double1 and the shoulder-strap laid over it4 ,the gown must be neatly plaited behind and in front1 set firmly into the double collar1 and stitched with strong thread near the edge4 ,some people pipe every seam of a dressing-gown with white or coloured muslin1 linen1 or glazed calico4 ,the back is drawn up by means of a string-case1 over which a band should button4 ,a large button is put on the band1 and on the collar1 and the button-holes should be very firmly sewed round1 either with tape or with button-hole stitch4 ,after putting in the sleeves1 run or back-stitch the plaits firmly down again1 at about nail below the gathering1 to make them lie flat4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #aj4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e;,a ,fig #e;,b ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #i ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #bj ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #ah ,fig #ag ,fig #ai ,fig #ba ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bf ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #bi ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- -------------------- ,man's ,woman's ,girl's size4 size4 large size4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,width of flannel #ad #ad #ad ,quantity required for one #aj #e #h #aj #f #j ,length of skirts #b #j #a #j #a #j ,number of breadths #d #j #d #j #d #j ,length of sleeve down the selvage #ab #aj #h ,width of ditto #i #h #g ,length of shoulder-strap #d #d #c ,width of ditto #a #a #a ,size of double neck-gusset #b #b #b ,size of sleeve-gusset #c #c #b ,width of collar #e #f #d ,length down the selvage #aj #h #h ,width of wristband #b #b #b ,length of ditto down the selvage #d #d #d ,width of band #b #b #b ,length of ditto down the selvage #bj #ab #ab ,space to cut for the shoulders #b #b #b ,depth for the shoulders to slope #a #a ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this figure represents a dressing-gown made of dimity4 ,a deep hem of #c or #d nails is made at the bottom1 insertion-work is sewed up the fronts1 and round the cape1 collar1 and wrists1 at the edge of the work a frill is put on4 ,the gown is fulled in evenly to the shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at the top1 and may be confined or not1 at the waist behind1 according to pleasure4 ,the front is generally left unconfined1 so that the band alone arranges it in folds4 ,,fig4 #b1 #c4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- -------------------- ,woman's ,woman's large size4small size4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ad #ad ,number of breadths #c breadths #c breadths ,the one breadth crossed off at the top #e #e ,length of breadths #a #j #a #j ,length of shoulder-strap #c #c ,width of ditto #a #a ,length of neck-band or case #aj #i ,space for shoulder #c #c ,length of arm-hole #c #b ,arm-hole curved into the cloth #a #a ,length of waist #e #d ,length of string-case #aj #h ,sleeve cut according to ,plate #ab1 ,fig4 #e #f ,fig4 #e #f ,fig4 #e and #f ,collar cut according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #g ,cape cut according to ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #f ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,this gown1 made of flannel1 either plain or printed1 is plaited in small regular folds at the neck1 where a string-case of muslin or white ribbon is put for a string to pass through4 ,the gown is again plaited in the same folds at the waist1 in two rows1 to which another string-case is sewed all round the waist4 ,a deep hem is made at the bottom1 and turned up with a piping of white2 or if it is a printed flannel1 of some coloured glazed calico or muslin2 the ribbons in front are the same colour1 and a flannel band is piped with it1 as well as the wristbands and every seam on the shoulders1 round the sleeves1 c4 ,the sleeves should be stitched down about #a nail below the shoulder1 to make the fulness lie close and flat4 ,if made of printed flannel1 it is useful to wear at the sea-side1 as a walking dress1 to and from bathing4 ,,cloak ,,dressing-,,gown4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this is a comfortable simple pattern2 it can be made either of flannel or lighter material1 and is equally suitable for men1 women1 and children2 it is very convenient for the latter when taken out of a bath1 or for sitting up in bed4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- -------------------- ,man4 ,woman4 ,girl of #af yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,length of skirt #b #j #a #j #a #j ,number of breadths #d #j #d #j #d #j ,space for shoulder #b #a #a ,depth of arm-holes #e #d #c ,length of string-case #ab #aj #i ,length of band #af #ad #ab ,shoulder-piece 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #a ,collar 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #g ,cape 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #f ,sleeves 7see ,plate #ab7 ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #af ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- -------------------- ,girl of #aj yrs4 ,child of #e yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,length of skirt #a #j #a #j ,number of breadths #c #j #c #j ,space for shoulder ,depth of arm-holes #c #c ,length of string-case #h #g ,length of band #aj #h ,shoulder-piece 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #d ,collar 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #ac ,cape 7see ,plate #ac7 ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #f ,sleeves 7see ,plate #ab7 ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #af cut smaller cut smaller ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,after the seams have been herring-boned up1 the cloak is folded in four1 to find the shoulders1 which are cut in a gentle slope to the proper width1 and sewed up4 ,the arm-holes having been left1 the sleeves are next put in1 after which1 the gown is fulled evenly into the double shoulder-piece2 the collar and cape are next put on2 the hem at the bottom should be deep1 and turned up with a flannel or tape piping2 down the sides and round the cape1 collar1 c41 should be bound with flannel binding1 to give a finish4 ,some persons omit the sleeves1 having merely slits for the arms4 ,a ,,dressing ,,jacket4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f4 ,some persons merely wear a little flannel1 calico1 or twilled muslin dressing jacket1 and as it is usually made to fit the figure1 the breadths are much gored2 for the purpose1 therefore1 of better explaining the shape1 a figure is made of the breadth when cut out4 ,fig4 #e ,a1 is half of the back breadth1 which is doubled in two1 and ,fig4 #e ,b is the whole of one of the front breadths4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,woman's ,woman's ,girl's ,girl's ---------------- large small large small size4 size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,number of breadths #c #c #c #c ,width of material #ab nls4 #aa nls4 #aa nls4 #aa nls4 ,length of each breadth#ad -- #ab -- #aj -- #h -- ,length of sleeve #ab -- #aj -- #h -- #h -- ,width of ditto #aj -- #h -- #h -- #h -- ,length of collar #h -- #f -- #f -- #e -- ,width of ditto #c -- #c -- #b -- #b -- ,size of neck-gusset #b -- #a -- #a -- #a -- ,length of arm-hole #d -- #d -- #c -- #c -- ,length of string-case #d -- #c -- #c -- #c -- ,space for shoulder #c -- #c -- #c -- #b -- ,length of skirt-gusset #d -- #c -- #c -- #b -- ,breadth of ditto #b -- #a -- #a -- #a -- ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,,fig4 #e ,a4 ,or half the back of the jacket when cut out1 supposing the breadth to be folded exactly in two4 ,let ,a ,l be the folded side4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------- ,nails4 ---------------------------------- ,space from ,a to ,b #e ,do4 do4 ,b to ,c #b ,do4 do4 ,c to ,d #c ,do4 do4 ,d to ,e #a ,do4 do4 ,d to ,f #b ,do4 do4 ,f to ,g ,do4 do4 ,f to ,h #c ,do4 do4 ,h to ,i #a ,do4 do4 ,h to ,j ,do4 do4 ,j to ,k #c ,do4 do4 ,k to ,l #b ---------------------------------- ,,fig4 #e ,b4 ,or the whole of one of the front breadths4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------- ,nails4 ---------------------------- ,space from ,a to ,b #d ,do4 do4 ,b to ,c #d ,do4 do4 ,c to ,d #a ,do4 do4 ,c to ,e #b ,do4 do4 ,e to ,f #b ,do4 do4 ,e to ,g #a ,do4 do4 ,g to ,h #b ,do4 do4 ,h to ,i #b ,do4 do4 ,i to ,j #f ,do4 do4 ,j to ,k #ab ---------------------------- ,in making up this jacket1 sew the #c breadths together1 putting in at the bottom two gussets or triangular pieces4 ,make a narrow hem at the bottom1 sew up the shoulders1 and put in the sleeves4 ,set the back breadth plainly into the collar1 but full it at each end into the neck gusset1 and also in front4 ,put the string-case about a nail lower than the arm-holes4 ,,flannel ,,petticoats4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,the breadths of flannel are cut according to the height of the person1 allowing a good tuck besides1 to be let down after the petticoat has been washed4 ,,scale4 ,first or largest size1 for a full grown woman3--#c breadths of flannel sewed simply together2 slit behind #f nails deep1 and opened in a seam4 ,second size1 for a middle sized woman1 #b breadths2 the half is crossed off #e nails1 and the two gores are sewed1 one on each side1 between the two plain breadths2 slit behind #e nails2 it is made in the middle of one of the plain breadths4 ,it is more economical to cut two petticoats at once1 as #e breadths will make two1 but it requires #c to cut one out1 and there must be waste4 ,third size1 for a girl of fourteen or sixteen1 #b breadths4 ,from #a breadth is cut a gore of #e nails at the top1 sloped off to #a nail2 this gore is sewed at the opposite side of the same breadth1 placing the #a nail width at the narrow end of the breadth4 ,the slit behind must be determined by doubling the petticoat exactly in half1 letting it be about #d nails long4 ,another way of cutting this petticoat1 is by crossing it like a shift1 and then putting the two broader ends to the bottom1 while the narrow part is at the top2 by this method there is no waste1 and it saves both time and trouble4 ,fourth size1 #b breadths3 #a breadth is cut in half1 and #a half is gored #e nails2 the two gores are sewed1 one on each side of the whole breadth1 in front1 and the half breadth is put in behind4 ,the slit is torn down the middle of the half-breadth1 and is #d nails long4 ,fifth size1 for a girl eight or ten1 #a breadth4 ,the breadth is gored1 and the whole breadth torn in half2 a gore is sewed on each side between the two half breadths4 ,slit behind #c nails deep1 in the middle of the breadth1 behind4 ,sixth size1 for a child five or six1 #a or #b breadths1 sewed simply together without goring4 ,slit #c nails long behind4 ,petticoats are variously made up4 ,the most usual way is plaiting the top in regular folds on each side1 letting it be quite plain1 or nearly so1 in front2 it is then set firmly into a linen1 calico1 or jean band1 of the proper width to encircle the waist1 and of #a nail deep when doubled and turned in4 ,strong tapes are sewed to the ends of the band1 and sometimes a large button-hole is made in the band1 about #b nails from the end1 through which the tape of the opposite end is drawn1 which makes the petticoat set neatly to the figure4 ,another manner is to make the petticoat up without any slit behind1 so as to be a round skirt2 a band of the same size is set on quite plainly1 without plait or fulness 7see ,fig4 #h74 ,a runner is made all round in the middle of the band1 and two button-holes for the strings to come out of1 are made at the two sides of the petticoat under the arm2 one tape is sewed firmly down at the end of one of the button-holes1 carried all round the petticoat1 and drawn out again at the same hole2 the other tape1 in a similar manner1 is sewed down at the other button-hole3 when the petticoat is on1 and the tapes drawn and tied in front1 the fulled part lies behind1 forming a sort of bustle to set off the dress properly 7see ,fig4 #i74 ,the tops for children's petticoats are generally a kind of stay1 to which the skirt is either sewed or fastened by means of buttons1 and to which the drawers button also4 ,for children's stays1 see ,plate #aa4 ,,pockets4 ,,plate #aj4 ,pockets are either worn tied round the waist1 fastened into the petticoat1 or buttoned upon the stays4 ,when fastened into the petticoat1 they are made of the same material1 otherwise of dimity1 calico1 jean1 twilled muslin1 and sometimes of nankeen or brown jean4 ,take a doubled piece of six nails width-way1 and seven nails selvage-way when doubled1 and cut according to ,fig4 #aj4 ,for this purpose1 double the folded piece in half width-way1 and slope off from ,a to ,b one nail4 ,the hole in the pocket is slit down about four nails1 beginning at three-quarters of a nail from the top4 ,cut the slit in the shape of an ,i1 in order to allow of a deep hem being made on each side4 ,the two pieces of the pocket are run firmly together all round1 at a little distance from the edge1 on the wrong side4 ,it is then turned inside out1 the seam well flattened1 and back-stitched all round with white silk1 about a quarter of an inch from the edge4 ,the top is set into a broad piece of tape1 which is doubled over it and forms the strings also4 ,the slit is hemmed or back-stitched neatly down4 ,sometimes an inner pocket or pockets are made for a watch1 c41 and this is done by sewing a square piece of the material inside the pocket4 ,the top is left open1 but the sides and bottom of it are firmly sewed down4 ,,another ,,pocket4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,this differs from the other merely in having the slit cut the contrary way1 so as to open width1 instead of length-wise4 ,,another ,,pocket4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad4 ,this shape is preferred by some persons1 as it sets better to the figure than the others4 ,the straight side is worn in front2 and1 in cutting out a pair of pockets1 care must be taken to make them for the right and left side4 ,the shape is exactly the same as ,fig4 #aj1 excepting that1 after they are cut out1 a gore is taken off from the one side and sewed on to the other1 by which means the one is straight and the other1 in consequence of the addition1 is very much sloped4 ,when pockets are fastened into gowns and petticoats1 they are a little fulled at the top1 and the slit of the pocket is sewed to the corresponding slit of the petticoat4 ,some people cut out the slit for the pocket differently1 as they are considered to lie flatter to the person than the usual shaped pocket4 ,it is formed by making an oblong bag or pocket1 about eight nails long and five nails wide1 and cutting at one end1 in a slanting direction1 so as to take off a triangular piece4 ,to save waste1 it is better to make two pockets at once1 letting the oblong piece be still five nails wide1 when doubled1 but fifteen nails long 7see ,fig4 #ab72 crease it in half its length1 and then cut1 in a slanting direction1 across from ,a to ,b4 ,the part cut forms the slit or opening to the pocket1 which is sewed all round to the slit in the petticoat or gown4 ,,another ,,method4 ,this is simply a lining or square piece of calico1 about ten nails wide and eight nails deep1 sewed to the inside of the petticoat quite plainly4 ,the petticoat has a slit of four nails deep4 ,,frills4 ,frills are in use when high gowns are worn1 and are made of cambric1 muslin1 net1 lace1 tulle1 crape1 c4 ,a ,,simple ,,frill4 ,this is merely a strip of muslin1 about fourteen nails long and three nails wide1 more or less1 according to pleasure4 ,it is merely hemmed all round1 and simply plaited up1 in regular folds1 to the proper size4 ,a ,,particularly ,,neat ,,frill4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,this is made of net or clear muslin1 and is neatly fulled to the band4 ,the edge1 instead of being hemmed1 is rolled over a bobbin to stiffen it4 ,the band is about half a nail wide1 and doubled1 and is nine nails long4 ,the frill on each side is fourteen nails long1 and two nails wide4 ,a button-hole is put in the middle to fasten it to the gown1 and it ties at the ends with ribbons4 ,a ,,crimped ,,frill4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,this is very suitable for young children1 especially boys1 and is generally made of lawn or cambric4 ,the frill should be double the length of the size round the neck1 and about one nail wide4 ,a neat hem at one edge1 and the other is sewed to a band of the proper length1 say about five nails1 and of half a nail in depth4 ,these frills should be crimped very neatly4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,this frill is to be made like ,fig4 #ae1 excepting that the muslin is only one nail deep1 and crimped in the same manner as ,fig4 #af4 ,it is very suitable for young children4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,another and more ornamental frill1 made of muslin or net1 with edging sewed on it4 ,the muslin or net must be about four nails wide1 and fourteen or sixteen nails long4 ,the frill is creased down the middle1 and on each side of the crease1 at a quarter of a nail distance1 it is neatly run with a long thread1 and drawn up to the proper width1 forming a puffing in the centre of the frill4 ,this puffing is first stroked with the needle into an even fulness1 and then sewed at each side close to the gatherings1 to a band of a quarter of a nail wide only1 or still narrower1 so as to raise the puffing sufficiently to look well1 and yet not too much to admit of a ribbon being drawn smoothly through it4 ,this ribbon ties the frill round the neck4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,this is a very simple frill1 and1 when well made1 looks remarkably neat4 ,the net of which it is composed must be about two nails and a quarter wide1 creased in the middle1 and finely plaited in small neat plaits4 ,it is then doubled1 and bound on the outside down the folded centre with a narrow ribbon1 so that the two sides of the frill lie close together1 instead of being open1 like ,fig4 #ah4 ,,another ,,frill4 ,this kind1 which is sometimes called a ,ruche1 is made exactly contrary to the usual mode4 ,the frill1 instead of being run down the middle1 is joined down the sides1 and confined at the joining into a ribbon1 so that the top of the frill is double2 and as it is usually made of tulle1 or some rather stiff material1 it stands out stiffly from the neck4 ,pelerines have sometimes a double frill or ,ruche1 of the same material that they are made of1 sewed to them4 ,,cuffs4 ,,plate #aj4 ,there are various kinds of cuffs1 for different purposes1 of which the most useful only are here explained4 ,,tidy ,,cuffs4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba4 ,tidy cuffs are much worn by persons whose employments are apt to injure the sleeve of the gown1 either by wearing it out1 staining1 or greasing it4 ,they are very valuable whilst drawing1 writing1 pasting1 or when in the kitchen2 and in these cases are generally made of ,holland or nankeen1 and when braided with dark blue1 green1 crimson1 brown1 or any other suitable colour1 with ribbons to lace up of the same1 they have a particularly neat effect4 ,the cuff is cut out as follows 7,fig4 #ba73--,procure a piece of ,holland four nails down the selvage1 and five nails wide2 double it in half its width1 and slope down by the selvage from ,a to ,d1 and from ,b to ,c1 cutting off half a nail in a direct slope1 so that1 when open1 the end1 ,c ,d1 is but four nails wide1 while ,a ,b is five4 ,turn down a deep hem along each of the sloped sides half a nail deep1 and over the stitches put a braid1 with two other rows of the same close together on the hem1 leaving sufficient space between to insert a thin whalebone to support the cuff1 and keep it from wrinkling when on the arm4 ,the lace-holes are worked with silk the same colour as the ribbon4 ,fig4 #bj represents the cuff when laced up4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,this is a neat cuff to lay on the dress1 and is either made of plain net1 of lace1 or of muslin1 with or without edging1 and sometimes of satin ribbon4 ,if for mourning1 the net should have a broad hem4 ,it is gathered and sewed into a band about one nail deep1 and three or three and a half wide1 according to the size of the wrist4 ,there should be two pearl buttons set on one end1 and button-holes made to correspond4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,this is a plain band1 to be made to fit the wrist exactly1 of silk1 satin1 or velvet1 to be laid on a thin evening sleeve4 ,it may be one nail broad or more4 ,a rouleau is sometimes laid on round it1 or a narrow piping4 ,if it is made of silk the colour of the dress1 or of white silk embroidered1 it has a very pretty effect4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,this is a dress cuff1 to wear with lace or tulle sleeves1 and may be made of any rich material1 with a piping of satin and an edging of blonde or lace4 ,the inside is sometimes embroidered in floss silk4 ,in cutting it out1 procure a piece of paper about two nails and a half deep1 and four nails long2 double it in half its length1 and measure up the side from ,a to ,c1 one nail and a quarter1 leaving from ,c to the upper edge1 ,j1 one nail and a quarter also4 ,cut off the corner from ,e to ,c1 curving it a little inwards1 and again1 from ,c to ,a1 cut off in a direct line one quarter of a nail4 ,open it1 and it will resemble ,fig4 #bd exactly4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,this cuff resembles the preceding one1 but has1 in addition1 a small second cuff laid on the lower part of it1 and a slit cut down from the top to about one nail and a quarter depth from ,a to ,b4 ,the top of the second cuff comes just below the slit1 and it is a little sloped away at the sides4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,a cuff worn in deep mourning1 especially by widows1 and made either of clear muslin or black crape4 ,it consists of fold lying upon fold1 and is either sewed upon the sleeve or made to slip over the hand4 ,the folds are four or five in number1 and lie just one above the other1 each being about a quarter of a nail deep4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,this is to be worn as a trimming or edging1 below the sleeve1 upon the hand3 the band buttons inside the sleeve4 ,the frill is of muslin1 cambric1 net1 or lace4 ,it should be very full1 and got up in puffs1 or very finely crimped4 ,the ends of the bands should have deep hems1 in which the button-holes are worked4 ,the band is about three-quarters of a nail deep1 and three or three nails and a half wide4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,this is a neat simple little cuff1 and suits the collar1 ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #bf4 ,it is well adapted for mourning4 ,cut two pieces of muslin1 net1 lawn1 or cambric1 of two nails square1 and hem each round with a broad hem2 sew the two together to the depth of about one nail2 the parts sewed together form a sort of band inside1 while the others1 being unattached1 fall backwards over the sleeve4 ,,plate #aj4 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,a simple1 plain1 mourning cuff1 with a broad hem above and below4 ,the cuff to be about two nails deep1 and three and a half or four nails long1 according to the size of the wrist4 ,,aprons4 ,,plate #aa4 ,if for common use1 aprons are made of white1 brown1 blue1 black1 or checked linen1 of black stuff1 calico1 ,holland1 leather1 nankeen1 print1 or long cloth2 if for better purposes1 of cambric muslin1 clear1 mulled1 or jaconet muslin1 silk1 satinette1 satin1 c4 ,the length of the apron is1 of course1 generally determined by the height of the wearer1 and the width1 by that of the material1 and by the purpose for which it is intended4 ,for working aprons1 the width is generally one breadth of a yard wide2 for dress aprons1 two breadths1 one of which is cut in half1 and these halves put one on each side of the whole breadth4 ,if the material should be wide enough1 one breadth1 of from fourteen to twenty nails1 will answer very well4 ,,dress ,,apron4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,this is made of satinette1 or thick satin silk1 and consists of two breadths1 one in front1 and a half-breadth sewed on each side of it4 ,none of them are to be at all sloped4 ,the length is regulated by the pleasure of the wearer1 and a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep is made all round4 ,the length of the band must vary according to the size of the waist1 and must be cut by ,fig4 ,l1 which represents it when doubled4 ,the part from ,a to ,b1 or that to which the apron is fulled1 is five nails and a half2 from ,a to ,c is one nail and a half2 and from ,b to ,d is one full nail4 ,the remainder of the band1 from ,b ,d1 onwards to ,f1 is determined by the size of the waist4 ,a piece of whalebone is stitched into the centre of the band1 ,a ,c1 and on each side of it a little chain-stitch is worked1 in thick silk1 of the same colour as the apron4 ,the folds are exactly according to the ,plate1 beginning within the hem1 and laid evenly along until below the whalebone1 when a space is left4 ,the chain-stitch is next worked in two rows1 parallel with the curved shape of the band1 allowing little more than a quarter of a nail between the rows4 ,by this means the folds are neatly confined1 and it prevents the bustling effect they might otherwise have4 ,these folds are very small and close4 ,the band has a small piping below1 but is plain at the top1 and fastens behind with hooks and eyes4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #aa ,fig ,l ,fig ,p ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #bf ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #bi ,fig #cj ,fig #cb ,fig #ca ,fig #cc ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this apron is generally made of silk1 but looks well also in muslin4 ,it requires care in the making as well as in the washing4 ,the vandykes are formed by turning the edge of the apron down once1 all round1 to about three-quarters of a nail deep2 and1 after tacking it firmly down1 vandykes are neatly run1 in very small stitches 7,fig4 #e71 from the edge of the apron to pretty near the rough edge of the silk1 leaving sufficient to turn in well afterwards3--thus1 let the vandykes be run to the depth of from ,a to ,b1 leaving a small space all the way from ,b to ,c4 ,when finished turn each vandyke inside out1 and smooth all the wrinkles at the corners and points with a stiletto or scissors4 ,when it is well and evenly pulled out1 turn in the rough edge and hem it neatly down4 ,sometimes a little braid1 or a row of chain-stitch1 is put over the stitches on the right side4 ,the plaits are regularly laid1 those on each side being folded towards the middle4 ,the band is frequently lined with buckram or stiff muslin1 and is made with or without piping4 ,scollops are sometimes substituted for vandykes4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,this apron is of muslin1 either clear or otherwise4 ,a broad hem is made all round1 of the proper width to admit a coloured or white ribbon of the half or three-quarter nail breadth4 ,some fine work or edging may be sewed to the hem all round4 ,the band should be open at the ends to admit of the ribbon that ties it being drawn out when the apron is washed4 ,the hem all round should also be kept open at the ends for the same purpose1 and merely tacked up when the ribbon is put in4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this is an apron with a broad hem all round1 and a full frill of any fine material4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,a clear muslin apron1 with a broad hem of three-quarters of a nail deep1 and a shawl bordering laid all round within the hem1 either half or three-quarters of a nail deep4 ,this is a pretty apron for a young person4 ,the bordering must be taken off before the apron is washed4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,this represents the bottom of an apron when hollowed out4 ,it has a simple broad hem1 turned up with a piping4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,the broad hem here is surrounded by a deep crimped frill of about a nail broad4 ,these aprons are generally made of jaconet or cambric muslin1 and the frill of cambric or lawn4 ,they are very suitable for ladies to wear in a morning when cutting out1 or in the housekeeper's room4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,this is a pretty evening apron1 made with a broad hem1 and muslin insertion-work let in all round1 inside which1 coloured ribbon may or may not be run4 ,edging1 either of lace or worked muslin1 is put on all round4 ,,apron ,,pockets4 ,these vary very much1 some being laid on the apron as in ,fig4 #c1 #d1 and #f2 others put on at the back1 a slit being made in the apron to correspond with the place of the pockets4 ,these last are made as in ,fig4 ,p1 from a long double piece1 which1 being sewed up1 is cut diagonally or crosswise1 from ,a to ,b1 and forms two pockets1 the part cut being sewed to the slit of the apron4 ,the whole length of the narrow piece1 before it is cut1 is six nails1 and the width1 when double1 two nails4 ,the slit in the apron is neatly hemmed1 and a trimming of ribbon or silk put round it1 with a bow at the bottom1 or a fringe and tassels4 ,in ,fig4 #c the pocket is a piece of two nails and a half deep and five nails wide4 ,this piece is plaited in regular folds at the top to a lining of only two nails and a half deep1 and the same width4 ,the bottom is fulled nearly to a point in small folds1 and the lining1 being turned in to the same shape1 is sewed to it with a piping4 ,the pocket is then stitched firmly on to the apron1 and trimmed according to fancy4 ,one or three small bows are put on the pocket4 ,in ,fig4 #d the pocket is cut in the shape of a heart1 and put plainly on the apron4 ,it is about two nails and three-quarters wide1 and two nails and a half deep4 ,the pocket is piped or trimmed with edging4 ,in ,fig4 #f the pocket is particularly neat and pretty1 being made of folds of the same material as the apron1 with a coloured piping all round it1 and three bows the same colour as the piping4 ,,common ,,aprons4 ,the simplest kind1 and that generally worn by working men1 is a yard wide or more1 hemmed at the bottom and at the top1 with a string run through to tie round the waist4 ,it is thus worn by brewers1 c4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,this is a simple shape1 and the one most in use4 ,it is either plaited or gathered into the band1 which is about a nail deep4 ,these aprons are usually worn by all servants and women while at work4 ,blue1 check1 and brown linen are most used for scouring and cleaning2 white linen1 ,holland1 and print1 for less dirty employments4 ,ladies wear them of silk or muslin1 with or without pockets4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,this is a pretty apron1 often worn by girls from eight to sixteen or eighteen years of age4 ,the bib is made of the proper size to fit in front1 between the shoulders of the wearer1 coming down in a slope to the waist4 ,these bibs may be plain1 or they are ornamented with tucks or folds1 either upright or length-wise4 ,the shoulder-strap may be of the same material1 or of tape or ribbon4 ,the apron is gathered evenly1 or plaited so as to reach to ,a on each side1 which is situated exactly between the bottom of the bib and the shoulder-strap behind4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,may be worn either as a common or as a pretty dress apron1 according to the material and trimming4 ,it may be made of silk1 coloured muslin1 or print4 ,after being properly gathered into the band1 two shoulder-straps1 in the form of four lappets1 are cut out1 either pointed1 as in ,a1 or rounded1 as in ,b4 ,these lappets may be piped1 and either edged with lace or fringe1 or left plain4 ,for a full size1 the lappet is five nails along the selvage1 from ,d to ,c1 and one nail and three-quarters from ,c to ,b4 ,the two straps are sewed together at ,c1 and fastened with a bow of ribbon4 ,the lappet is piped all round with a strong cord1 to make it wear well4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,this shape is much worn by men servants1 apothecaries1 grocers1 c41 and is simply gathered into a band1 leaving a piece of two nails unattached to it1 ,a ,b1 which is hemmed at the top1 and falls negligently down4 ,a ,,cooking ,,apron4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,this is a neat pattern for a housekeeper1 cook1 or kitchen-maid4 ,the bib is quite plain1 and pins to the gown at the corners4 ,the size given in the ,plate is suitable for a girl1 but the bib should be cut to suit the wearer at once1 and not made by guess4 ,the apron is made of check or strong linen4 ,a ,,pantry ,,apron4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,a very good shape for men servants to wear when trimming lamps1 cleaning shoes and knives1 c4 ,the apron is about a yard and a quarter long1 and it is made of strong linen or calico4 ,the tape for the neck should be nine or ten nails long4 ,a pocket may be added in front4 ,the corners of the apron are simply turned down to the distance of five nails and a half from the top 7see ,a ,a71 the letters1 ,a ,a1 being each exactly five nails and a half from ,b4 ,these corners are either sewed or strongly hemmed down4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,workshop ,,apron4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,this is very useful for gentlemen when turning1 or using tools1 and is generally made of ,holland or strong white or brown linen4 ,the width is fifteen or sixteen nails2 the part for the neck four and a half1 five1 or more1 according to the width across the shoulders of the wearer4 ,the depth of this part two nails and a half or more4 ,the straps1 about eight nails and a half long1 cross each other from the neck to the half of the shoulder part of the apron2 which plan holds it up neatly in front1 and makes it set more comfortably4 ,a pocket may be added1 according to pleasure1 in front1 or two at the sides4 ,a slit in the apron1 bound round with tape1 and a square piece put on behind it1 looks the neatest as a pocket4 ,,sentiment1 ,,fianc,e1 ,,or ,,neck-,,tie4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah4 ,this is made of velvet1 satin1 or silk1 and is worn for the purpose of keeping the neck warm1 and as a finish to the dress4 ,it is made of two colours1 which are joined in the middle and lined with sarsenet3 the silk or other material is cut crosswise and pointed at the ends4 ,the sentiment is six or seven nails long from point to point1 when made up1 and within one nail and a half of the point at one end1 is fastened with strong stitches or a silk ring4 ,when the tie is worn1 the other point is passed through the ring and drawn close4 ,sometimes the neck-tie is of a dark coloured silk in the middle with two coloured ends4 ,a ,,dress ,,scarf ,,or ,,caprice4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,this is made of the broadest satin ribbon that can be procured1 say two nails and a half wide1 and is two yards and three-quarters long4 ,double the ribbon on the wrong side exactly in two1 and1 while so doubled1 run across the width of the ribbon in a slanting direction 7,fig4 #ai1 ,a ,b71 and when opened1 the scarf will set to the form of the neck4 ,an edging of swansdown is sewed all round1 and the ends may be either embroidered1 braided1 or left plain1 according to the taste of the wearer4 ,a ,,cachemire ,,or ,,indiana ,,scarf4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,this is a kind of scarf which is easily made1 and is a pretty finish to a walking dress1 or may be worn in an evening at home3 it is formed of three colours1 say black1 scarlet1 and light blue4 ,to make one scarf1 you will want one yard and six nails in length and four nails and a half in width1 of the black cachemire4 ,sometimes the length of the scarf will lie in the width of the material1 in which case it will be a great saving of expense4 ,procure a piece of each of the other two colours1 seven nails long1 and of the same width as the black1 viz41 four nails and a half4 ,find the middle of each end of the black strip1 and slope off one nail and a half from the middle to each side 7see ,fig4 #ba1 ,a ,c ,a ,d73 next1 slope one end of the blue1 and one end of the scarlet strip1 to accord exactly with the black strip1 cutting the nail and a half from the middle to the ends4 ,after this1 split the blue and the scarlet pieces down the middle1 sew half the blue and half the scarlet very accurately1 first together1 and then to the black strip1 making the points fit in as neatly as possible to the half strips3 do the same at the other end1 arranging the colours so as to be at cross corners with each other4 ,observe that the pieces are sewed flatly together1 and herring-boned all round on the right side4 ,a narrow silk gymp1 one-third of a nail wide1 is laid at the edge and upon all the joinings2 this gymp should be of some clear bright colour1 as yellow and deep brown or gold colour1 and at the ends is a silk fringe of blue and scarlet1 to match the two half strips4 ,a ,,simple ,,scarf4 ,this is made of plain net or tulle1 the whole width of the material1 say three-quarters of a yard1 and three yards long4 ,a broad hem is made all round1 wide enough to admit of a satin ribbon of a three-penny breadth4 ,,stays ,,or ,,corsets4 ,,plate #aa4 ,it is impossible to give any particular patterns or sizes of stays1 as they must1 of course1 be cut differently1 according to the figure1 and be variously supported with more or less bones or runners of cotton1 according to the age1 strength1 or constitution of the wearer2 we shall1 therefore1 confine ourselves to a few observations on the making up3 and with respect to the cutting out1 it is recommended to those who make their own stays1 to purchase a pair from an experienced stay-maker that fit perfectly well1 and also a pair cut out1 but not made up1 so as to be a good pattern for the home-made stays4 ,,women',s ,,stays4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,if for ladies1 they are made of sattine1 or best ,french jean1 which is half a yard wide1 and about #bj;d4 or #bs4 per yard3 if of an inferior quality1 they are made of white1 brown1 grey1 or nankeen jean1 at #h;d4 or #aj;d4 per yard1 and lined with calico between the doubles4 ,the stay is generally lined between the two pieces of jean with union cloth or ,irish linen in every part excepting the gores4 ,stays are usually cut in four parts1 all of which are generally upon the cross1 as this assists materially in making them set better to the figure4 ,two of the pieces reach from each side of the back1 nearly to the hips1 and the other two from thence to the middle of the busk or steel4 ,there are two gores on each side for the bosom1 and two larger ones on each side below1 for the hips4 ,the necessary bones are as follows3 ,a steel in the middle1 which should be narrower at the top than at the bottom1 and confined in a strong wash-leather1 before being put into the stay-case4 ,two bones at the extreme ends1 to prevent the holes from bursting beyond the edge4 ,we may also add1 as they are in common use1 a second bone down each back1 on the other side of the lace-holes4 ,bones between the front bosom gores1 on each side2 but these should be very thin and elastic1 and are seldom wanted unless the wearer requires much additional support4 ,two other bones1 one on each side1 from about a nail below each arm-hole to the bottom of the stay4 ,a few slight rib or cross-bones are sometimes put in4 ,it is as well to observe that unless particularly feeble1 or otherwise an invalid1 it is most desirable to wear as few bones as possible2 and that for healthy persons1 the two back bones1 with the steel in front1 are quite sufficient4 ,the casing of the steel in front is sometimes made elastic to the depth of four nails from the top1 by means of ,indian rubber runners2 which adds much to the comfort of asthmatic or delicate persons4 7,see ,fig4 #bc47 ,on each side of the steel is a cotton runner1 and these are also put in various other parts of the stays1 according to fancy4 ,,on ,,making ,,up4 ,the needles used for making stays are called the between needles4 ,strong sewing silk1 called stay-silk1 is used for the best corsets1 and strong waxed cotton for the common ones4 ,in sewing the seams1 take great care to turn in the work properly1 so as to have all the rough edges within the stay3 for this purpose1 first turn down the outside and inside piece of jean lying on one side of the seam1 with the rough edges and the lining prepared as if for common sewing2 do the same with the other side of the seam1 placing the two seams1 thus prepared1 side by side1 and sew them firmly together4 ,it will have the effect of a double ordinary seam1 when held between the finger and thumb4 ,the mode of sewing these four thicknesses so as to make them lie flatly when opened1 is rather peculiar4 ,take up with your needle1 three of the thicknesses1 leaving the fourth unsewed4 ,the next stitch1 take again three folds1 leaving the other outside one unsewed3 continue alternately taking up one outside and omitting the other1 letting the stitches lie close together3 when completed1 open the seam1 and flatten it with the finger and thumb4 ,the gores are next laid between the doubles of jean1 and neatly back-stitched all round2 the narrow parts at the top being worked in button-hole stitch4 ,the bone-cases are then made1 and the cotton runners back-stitched4 ,the oylet or lace-holes are next worked1 and after the stay-bones are put in1 the top and bottom of the stays1 with the shoulder-straps1 are neatly bound with stay-binding4 ,as there are many varieties in the shapes of the different parts of stays1 they will be described in detail1 under their respective heads4 ,,gores4 ,these are sometimes made of elastic wires1 as in ,fig4 #bc1 sometimes of ,indian rubber1 and sometimes of a kind of elastic twill4 ,,shoulder-,,straps ,are made of the same material as the stays1 and back-stitched to the front and back of the shoulder4 ,sometimes they are buttoned down in the front1 which enables the wearer1 by unbuttoning them1 to dress her hair in an evening with perfect ease4 7,see ,fig4 #bb47 ,others have oylet-holes to admit of bobbins1 which lace them to corresponding holes in the stays4 7,see ,fig4 #bd47 ,a piece of ,indian rubber or elastic wire1 of about one nail in length1 is frequently sewed to the end of the strap1 and this is considered the most convenient1 as it will lengthen or contract at pleasure4 ,,lace-,,holes ,are generally worked round in button-hole stitch2 sometimes tape is laced from the outside through these holes1 being drawn through every other hole till they reach the top1 and then brought down again1 drawing it round the edge1 through the intermediate holes2 this preserves them from being worn4 7,see ,fig4 #bf47 ,others insert in every hole a ring1 called a patent lace-hole4 ,these are very durable1 but are said to destroy the laces4 ,,modesty-,,piece4 ,to the top of the stay is sometimes attached a small modesty-piece1 which for some people is an excellent contrivance1 as it makes it set more closely and delicately in front4 ,this extra piece is all in one1 and is the cross-way2 it is carried along the whole of the front of the stay3 it is about half a nail deep over the bosom1 and sloped off to a quarter of a nail over the stay-bone2 at the top of this additional strip1 which is bound all round1 a bobbin is run to draw it up4 ,when drawn properly1 this modesty lies over the bosom so as to shade it delicately1 whereas if it were cut all in one piece with the stay it would make it higher1 but it would stand out1 and not answer the desired end4 7,see ,fig4 #be47 ,,nursing ,,stays4 ,it is essential to open the front of nursing stays1 so as to give the mother the greatest ease while feeding her infant2 for this purpose1 care should be taken that no stay-bones or hard buttons should come in contact with the child's face3 the two or three best modes of opening them are the following3 ,leave open that side of the bosom gore which is next to the shoulder-strap1 to the depth of a full nail and a half2 neatly bind the side of the gore1 and after back-stitching the opposite side1 sew on very firmly two buttons1 one at the top and the other lower down4 ,to the gore is attached two loops1 by which it can be buttoned or unbuttoned at pleasure4 7,see ,fig4 #bd47 ,another mode is that of leaving open the outer sides of those gores nearest the steel or middle of the stays4 ,these sides1 and the parts with which they accord1 have oylet-holes worked down them1 exactly opposite to each other4 ,through each oylet-hole in the gore1 pass a bobbin of about two nails and a quarter long1 which is fastened at one end firmly to the wrong side1 just behind the oylet-hole4 ,the other end of each bobbin is drawn across to the inner side of the corresponding hole1 and pulled through4 ,by this arrangement all the ends of the bobbins lace up the whole gore4 ,the bobbins are sewed together at the ends1 forming a loop to attach it to a button on each side of the steel 7see ,fig4 #bc1 ,a ,b74 ,these bobbins should be carefully cut and joined1 so as to pull the gores properly in their places4 ,when it is unbuttoned the whole front lets down comfortably4 ,it is advisable to sew a little fold or oblong piece to the stay on the inside1 which forms a flap to lie between the shift and the opening1 as a guard from cold4 ,,men',s ,,stays1 ,,or ,,belts4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh4 ,these are worn by gentlemen in the army1 hunters1 or by those using violent exercise4 ,they are made of strong jean1 duck1 leather1 or webbing4 ,sometimes the stay is merely a strip or belt1 as ,fig4 #bh2 at others it is a little shaped or peaked1 as ,fig4 #bg4 ,towards the ends is sewed a piece of elastic work 7see ,fig4 #bh ,e74 ,runners of cotton are made in various places to strengthen the whole4 ,long webbing straps are sewed three on each end4 ,these straps are sewed on with pieces of leather over them1 and are about three nails deep4 ,the length is1 of course1 determined by the size of the wearer4 ,,belt ,,for ,a ,,hunter ,,or ,,coachman4 ,this is often merely a simple leather belt1 with three tongues and buckles4 ,,child',s ,,little ,,stay4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,this is made of fine jean1 doubled1 of three nails depth1 and of the width required by the child4 ,cord runners are made in front1 and at the backs1 and buttons are put on1 before and behind1 for the drawers and flannels to be attached to4 ,,an ,,older ,,child',s ,,stay4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,this is formed of double jean1 and may be lined between with ,irish linen4 ,if it is preferred1 all the runners may have cotton drawn through them1 so as to admit of no bones4 ,,bustles4 ,,plate #aa4 ,,fig4 #cj1 #cb4 ,bustles are worn by those whose shape requires something to set off the skirt of the gown4 ,they should not be too large1 or they look indelicate1 and in bad taste4 ,they are made of jean1 strong calico1 and sometimes of glazed calico4 ,fig4 #cj represents a simple bustle of strong calico4 ,it is composed of one piece the width of the calico1 say a yard1 and eight nails deep4 ,this piece is doubled in two1 so as to make two flounces1 the one four nails and a half long1 and the other three and a half4 ,at one nail from the doubled top make a narrow case to admit of tapes4 ,the bottoms of the flounces are hemmed with a very thick cord in them4 ,when worn1 the bustle is turned inside out1 by which means the frill falls between the two flounces 7see ,fig4 #cb74 ,fig4 #ca is merely two flounces of jean1 one four nails deep and the other three nails1 gathered into a tape at the top and vandyked at the bottom4 ,some persons wear down bustles 7see ,fig4 #cc71 which are made of glazed lining muslin4 ,a flat half circle or oval is cut out1 about two nails and a half wide by two nails deep1 and another piece1 of an oblong shape1 rounded at the corners1 much longer and deeper1 say three-quarters of a yard long by four nails and a half deep1 is fulled into the smaller piece on one side1 and into a tape on the other or top1 thus making a bag to contain the down1 which should be either swan's or the best goose down4 ,,veils4 ,the subject of veils is one that may soon be dismissed1 as a few words on the materials of which they are composed1 together with the usual sizes1 comprises all that can be said upon them4 ,veils for ordinary wear may be of a kind of soft tulle1 made on purpose1 of net1 gauze1 or crape4 ,the size for a grown-up person is from thirteen nails to a yard long1 and about twenty nails wide2 for a child1 eleven nails long1 and the width is determined by that of the material4 ,demi-voiles are about four nails deep1 and the width is regulated by that of the bonnet to which they are attached4 ,a pretty way of making a net or tulle veil is by hemming a satin ribbon half a nail deep all round it1 either the same colour1 or1 if the veil is white1 of some pale shade to suit the bonnet or the dress4 ,this1 by strengthening the edges1 makes the veil wear better than it would otherwise do4 ,a crape or gauze veil is simply hemmed all round1 the hem being deeper at the bottom to give it a little weight4 ,a ribbon is run in at the top4 ,mourning veils are of black crape4 ,they should be made of what is termed the best1 or jet black crape1 as the blue-black soon wears whitish1 and looks shabby4 ,the other1 though the most expensive at first1 is the best economy in the end4 ,they are made quite plainly1 with a broad hem all round--say three-quarters of a nail deep4 ,demi-voiles1 when not of blonde1 ,chantilly1 or worked lace1 are of tulle1 with ribbon run in4 ,they should be set on the bonnet slightly1 fulled all round the brim1 but much more so at the ears1 to make them hang well4 ,a demi-voile should also be a little taken up at the ears1 so as not to be the full depth1 which is apt to give a slovenly appearance4 ,riding veils are much shorter than any other kind except demi-voiles1 and sufficiently wide to draw nearly all round the hat4 ,they are made either of black lace1 worked on purpose1 or of brown or green crape4 ,it is a good plan to run a string through a riding-veil1 both at the top and bottom1 taking care that the ribbon at the bottom is only just as long as the veil is wide1 so that it is not seen when not in use4 ,the advantage of this second string is1 that in hot weather1 and under a glaring sun1 the wearer may tie both ribbons round her hat1 thus forming a double veil for the protection of her eyes1 whilst the lower part of the face has all the benefit of the cool air4 ,,sleeves4 ,,plate #ab4 ,sleeves should1 when it is possible1 be cut upon the cross2 for which purpose a corner of the material should be turned up1 until the doubled part1 which is the cross way1 is large enough to admit of the length and width of the sleeve4 ,silk is sometimes too narrow for a very large sleeve to be made without joining1 when care should be taken to join together two selvages4 ,the joinings must be so contrived as to set either under1 or at the back of the sleeves4 ,illustration3 ,plate #ab4 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #bd ,fig4 #be ,fig4 #bf ,fig4 #bg ,fig4 #bh ,fig4 #bi ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #ce ,in order to make sleeves set well1 they are hollowed out1 as it is called1 which is nothing more than cutting away a little of the front1 at the top1 so as to make it less deep than the back1 observing always that it is straight in the front1 the crosswise part of the sleeve falling behind4 ,this is of great importance1 as the set of the sleeve depends upon it4 ,of course attention must be paid to make them in pairs4 ,there are so many ways of finishing sleeves1 and so many fancies about them1 that to describe them all would be equally impossible and useless4 ,a few rows of biassing1 both at the top and bottom1 or small plaits1 confined once or twice by narrow bands1 or by back-stitching1 give a very neat appearance when the sleeve is at all a full one4 ,for lining sleeves1 see the description in ,chapter ,i4 ,a ,,child',s ,,first ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b4 ,this is a neat shape for a child of a year old1 before which time their sleeves are generally cut straight1 and merely sloped down to the cuff4 ,turn up your material seven nails1 and1 after cutting a pattern according to the figure1 lay it on the piece and cut by it4 ,the pattern is cut as follows 7see ,fig4 #b73--,take half a square of seven nails each way1 and from ,a to ,b measure two nails2 the same from ,a to ,h1 and mark across1 letting the wrist be one nail and three-quarters wide4 ,from ,b to ,c is four nails1 between which1 measure downwards1 one nail and a half1 and curve from ,b1 by ,l1 to ,c1 which is one nail from ,d4 ,measure next to ,e1 three nails1 and curve from ,c to ,e1 and again from ,e to ,g1 which is two nails from ,f4 ,the part marked ,d in all the sleeves is double4 ,when made up it resembles ,fig4 #a4 ,,an ,,older ,,child',s ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d4 ,turn up seven nails crosswise1 and cut as follows1 see ,fig4 #d3-- ,,scale4 -------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #a ,from ,a to ,c #a -------------------- ,cut across one nail and a quarter for the wrist4 ,,scale4 ----------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,e is #f ,from ,e to ,f #a ----------------------- ,slope gradually from ,b to ,f4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from the corner1 ,k to ,g #c ,from the corner1 ,i to ,h #a -------------------------------- ,slope from ,f to ,g1 and from ,g to ,h4 ,in making up ,fig4 #c1 after joining the seams1 and hemming or piping it at the bottom1 gather it into the arm-hole at the top1 and make a string-case just above the elbow to confine it as in the ,plate4 ,if preferred1 it may be gathered above the elbow1 and a narrow band put on4 ,,long ,,sleeve ,,for ,a ,,grown-,,up ,,person4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #e1 #f4 ,this is cut as follows3--,turn up your paper pattern1 or material1 nine nails upon the cross 7see ,fig4 #f74 ,,scale4 ----------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #b ,from ,a to ,j is #b ----------------------- ,cut straight from ,j to ,b for the wrist4 ,,scale4 ----------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,b to ,c #c ,from ,c to ,e #c ,from ,e to the corner #a ----------------------------- ,cut straight from ,b to ,k1 which is two nails below ,c4 ,cut in a sweep from ,k to the point1 ,o1 which is a quarter of a nail below ,e4 ,,scale4 ----------------------------- ,nails4 ,from the corner to ,f #c ,from ,f to ,g #b ,from ,g to ,h #c ,from ,h to ,i #b ----------------------------- ,cut in a sweep from ,o to ,f1 and from ,g to ,i4 ,the making up is perfectly simple4 ,it is for a small-sized person4 ,,the ,,circular ,,long ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h4 ,this takes rather more of the material than the other shapes1 but it is so easily cut out1 and looks so well when made up1 that it is allowed a place here4 ,for the full size it is a perfect circle1 in a square of about fifteen nails4 ,after the circle is formed1 double it in half 7see ,fig4 #h72 measure at ,a ,b a sufficient width to admit of the wrist1 and slit up1 in a slightly curving line1 from ,b to ,c for about four nails1 to form the arm of the sleeve4 ,a little of the circle1 from ,e towards ,b1 is then sloped off to form the hollowing4 ,when made up1 this part1 ,e1 is all taken up and gathered into the shoulder-strap4 ,it is considered to hang particularly well1 falling over the tight part of the sleeve 7see ,fig4 #g47 ,a ,,plain ,,long ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj4 ,turn up your material a yard or fifteen nails4 ,if it will not permit of this being done without joining1 add a straight piece along the dotted line1 running the two selvages together4 ,cut out as follows3 ,,scale4 ----------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #c ,from ,a to ,c #b ,from ,b to ,l #c ,from ,l to ,e #c ,from ,e to ,f #f ,from ,f to ,g #h ,from ,g to ,h #h ,from ,h to ,i #d ----------------------- ,cut from ,c to within half a nail below ,b for the wrist4 ,cut nearly straight from ,b to ,o1 which is two nails and a half below ,l1 and in a sweep from ,o to ,e4 ,sweep well from ,e to ,g1 and from ,g to ,i4 ,the making up is perfectly simple4 ,a ,,full ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #aa1 #ab4 ,turn up fifteen nails of your material1 and mark as follows3-- ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #h ,from ,b to ,e #g ,from ,e to ,f #g ,from ,f to ,h #e ,from the side to ,g #a ,from ,h to ,i #c ,from ,i to ,j #b ,from ,a to ,c #c --------------------------- ,curve from ,c to ,b2 from ,b to ,f4 ,hollow from ,f to ,g1 and cut nearly straight from ,g to ,h4 ,it is made up either quite simply1 or with one or two rows of biassing below the gathers at the top4 ,,another ,,full ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad4 ,turn up thirteen nails of your material1 and mark as follows3-- ,,scale4 -------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #h ,from ,a to ,c #b ,from ,b to ,o #e ,from ,o to ,e #c ,from ,e to ,f #f ,from ,f to ,g #b ,from ,f to ,h #b ,from ,h to ,i #c ,from ,i to ,j #b -------------------- ,slope in a regular curve from ,c1 by ,b1 to ,e4 ,curve easily from ,e to ,g1 and cut nearly straight from ,g to ,h4 ,cut from ,h to ,i for the wrist4 ,a ,,small ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #ae1 #af4 ,turn up your material so that the cross part1 is seventeen nails long4 ,cut as follows 7,fig4 #af73 ,,scale4 -------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #c ,from ,a to ,c #b ,from ,b to ,e #e ,from ,e to ,f #c ,from ,f to ,g #h ,from ,g to ,h #c ,from ,h to ,i #c -------------------- ,slope1 in an equal and full curve1 from ,c1 by ,b1 to ,f4 ,cut straight from ,g to ,i4 ,,an ,,old ,,woman',s ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah4 ,this is an economical kind of sleeve1 worn much by the working classes4 ,double your material either on the cross or nearly straight1 according to taste and economy4 ,from ,a to ,b1 the doubled part1 is ten nails and a half4 ,c is the point opposite ,o1 which is two nails below ,b4 ,slope1 in an outward curve1 from ,b to ,c1 and then1 taking but one fold of the silk1 cut the inward curve from ,b to ,c1 which forms the hollowing or inside of the sleeve4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,this is for a boy of about six years old1 who wears tunics of cloth4 ,the sleeve1 when doubled1 is six nails long1 four nails wide at the top1 and one nail and three-quarters at the wrist4 ,a is three nails from the top1 opposite to which is ,b4 ,curve from ,c to ,b1 hollowing out one fold4 ,fig4 #bj represents the sleeve made up4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,this sleeve is for a boy's coat or tunic1 and has two seams in it1 like a man's coat sleeve4 ,take two pieces of cloth eight nails long and three wide4 ,a is half way down the length4 ,curve from ,a to the bottom1 to within half a nail from the corner4 ,curve from ,b to ,c at two nails from the top1 and from ,a to ,b at three-quarters of a nail from the side1 which forms the elbow4 ,curve from ,c to the bottom1 at three-quarters of a nail from the side4 ,a ,,woman',s ,,large ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #bb1 #bc4 ,turn up your material fourteen nails1 and double it so as to be sixteen nails long at the top1 ,a ,c ,e4 ,,scale4 ----------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #b ,from ,a to ,c #h ,from ,c to ,e #h ,from ,e to ,f #b ,from ,f to ,g #f ,from ,g to ,h #c ,from ,g to ,i #f ,from ,i to ,j #g ----------------------- ,sweep gradually from ,b1 past ,c1 to ,f4 ,curve again from ,f to ,h4 ,cut in a straight line from ,h to ,j4 ,in making up1 the sleeve may be biassed one nail from the top1 and a piped band laid on1 and again three or four times at the wrist1 or it may be confined above the elbow2 in which case it must be made a little longer than would otherwise be necessary4 ,this is a pattern that can only be used when large sleeves are worn2 but1 being a good shape1 it is hoped it may prove acceptable4 ,,short ,,sleeves4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,these are for dresses1 frocks1 or even petticoats1 when full sleeves are worn and liked4 ,cut the pattern of the whole sleeve in paper2 and then1 turning up your material to a sufficient size crosswise1 lay the sleeve open upon it1 placing the long side of the pattern upon the cross or doubled part of the material4 ,both sleeves may thus be cut out at once4 ,,scale ,,of ,,different ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ---------------- ,large ,second ,third size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,turn up the material at the side #ag #ac #ab ,from ,a to ,b #c #b #c ,from ,a to ,c #c #b #c ,from ,c to ,b #b #a #b ,from ,b to ,d #ad #aj #h ,from ,d to ,e #ae #aa #i ,from ,e to ,f #b #b #c ,from ,f to ,g #b #c #b ,from ,h to ,i #f #e #d ,from ,c to ,g #bj #ad #ab ,length of band1 say #e #e #d ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,small ---------------- ,girl's girl's ,child's size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,turn up the material at the side #i #f #e ,from ,a to ,b #b #a #a ,from ,a to ,c #b #a #a ,from ,c to ,b #a ,from ,b to ,d #g #e #d ,from ,d to ,e #g #e #d ,from ,e to ,f #b #a #a ,from ,f to ,g #b #a #a ,from ,h to ,i #c #b #b ,from ,c to ,g #i #g #f ,length of band1 say #d #c #c ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,when cut out1 fold each sleeve in half 7see ,fig4 #bf71 and hollow one fold out to form the inside4 ,take care to hollow the sleeves properly1 so as to make a pair1 the straight part of the sleeve being in front1 which is to be hollowed4 ,if the sleeve should require joining1 sew two selvages together 7see the dotted line1 ,fig4 #be74 ,in making up1 the bottom of the sleeve may be either set into a band1 as in the ,plate1 or into a piping2 at the top it is gathered1 and frequently a piping is put round it1 which gives it a neat finish3 it is set into the dress quite plainly under the arms2 the fulness is thrown a little back1 for if brought too forward1 it is very unbecoming to the figure4 ,,short ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh1 #bi4 ,these are cut out exactly like ,fig4 #be1 excepting that after the sleeve is simply cut out1 a triangular piece is taken from the top of the doubled part of it1 and a triangle of worked muslin inserted4 ,to cut out this piece1 double the sleeve1 as in ,fig4 #bi1 and cut off from ,a to ,b3 when opened again1 it will resemble ,fig4 #bh1 and when made up1 it will be like ,fig4 #bg4 ,in making up1 after setting the sleeve into a band or piping at the bottom1 gather it at the top and sew it to the triangular piece1 throwing the fulness pretty equally at the sides1 and making it very full at the point of the triangle4 ,sometimes the triangle is piped to make it firmer4 ,,circular ,,short ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #cj1 #ca1 #cb4 ,this is another kind of short sleeve1 being cut out of a circle4 ,it is hollowed a little 7see ,fig4 #cj71 ,a ,b1 for the inside of the arm4 ,a circular hole is cut in the centre1 a little larger than the width of the arm2 this inner circle is gathered and set into the band1 and the outer one1 also gathered1 is sewed into the arm-hole of the dress4 ,the following are good sizes for circular sleeves1 all of which must be cut out of squares4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ---------------- ,full ,second ,third,girl's,child's,baby's size4 size4 size4 size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,nails4,nails4,nails4,nails4 ,nails4,nails4 ,size of the square #ah #ae #ac #aa #i #g ,size of the hole across #c #c #c #b #b #a ,length of the band #e #e #d #d #c #c ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,,tight ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ab4 ,,fig4 #cc1 #cd1 #ce4 ,this sleeve may be used either for petticoats1 or1 when tight sleeves are worn1 for evening dresses1 and children's frocks1 in which case it is ornamented in different ways4 ,turn up the material on the perfect cross1 and for the better cutting it out1 double it again1 as in ,fig4 #cc1 on which four folds lay your pattern1 ,d being the doubled part4 ,turn up your material eight nails1 then fold it from ,a to ,b1 ,fig4 #ce1 and cut as follows1 see ,fig4 #cc3 ,,scale4 ------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b is #c ,from ,a to ,c #c ,from ,b to ,e #d ,from ,e to ,f #b ,from ,f to ,g #c ,from ,c to ,h ------------------------- ,cut from ,b to ,c1 sweep from ,b to ,f1 and then cut from ,h1 which is half a nail above ,c1 to ,g4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #ac ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #ci ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #bd ,fig4 #be ,fig4 #bf ,fig4 #bg ,fig4 #bh ,fig4 #bi ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #ce ,fig4 #cf ,fig4 #cg ,fig4 #ch ,,shoulder-,,pieces1 ,,collars1 ,,capes c4 ,,plate #ac4 ,as the above articles1 together with pelerines1 tippets1 and collarettes1 are required for cloaks1 gowns1 pelisses1 frocks1 and dressing-gowns1 it is advisable to class them under a head by themselves1 by which means they can be more readily explained1 without confusion or repetition1 and the pattern wanted for any particular dress1 referred to4 ,patterns of the prettiest and most varied forms are selected1 together with a few scales for different sizes4 ,,observe that the ,plates represent but half of the pattern1 which is supposed to be double at the end marked ,d2 also ,,notice1 that they are drawn to a scale of the exact size of the pattern when made up1 so that about a quarter of a nail must be allowed all round for the turnings in4 ,it is a good plan1 when cutting out any difficult shape1 to make a pattern on paper1 very accurately1 first2 and then to lay it on the material and cut by it4 ,as it would be impossible to describe any intricate shape clearly1 without putting it into some regular form1 it is deemed necessary to enclose each pattern within an oblong or a square1 on the sides of which are marked distinctly the nails1 so that by making a figure on paper to a scale of real nails in the same proportion1 and marking with great accuracy the parts1 which the extreme points of the irregular pattern within1 touch1 the shape may be easily obtained by curving inwardly or outwardly from point to point1 according to the shape to be represented in the drawing4 ,it is always preferable to cut the above articles crosswise1 both before and behind1 as they set much better to the shape1 especially behind2 for the sake of economy1 they are sometimes cut straight-wise with one end placed against the selvage2 sometimes the collar or cape is joined behind with a neat piping1 in which case the back of the pattern is frequently laid against the selvage and the points made to lie crosswise4 ,the ,plate represents the patterns as cut on the most economical plan1 shewing whether the front or back should be straight-wise4 ,observe that if one side of the back be cut across1 the other side must be so likewise1 and if one side of the back be cut selvage-wise1 so must the corresponding2 whereas1 with regard to the front ends1 one side may be straight1 while the other is on the cross4 ,,in ,,cutting ,,crosswise4 ,turn up a sufficient quantity of the corner of the material1 like a half-handkerchief1 and laying the pattern with the part marked ,d on the doubled part of the material1 cut it out1 allowing a quarter of a nail all round for the turning in4 ,,in ,,cutting ,,straight-,,wise4 ,double the material selvage-wise to the proper width1 and cut out according to the paper pattern1 still placing ,d on the folded part of the muslin4 ,,shoulder-,,pieces4 ,are generally employed in dressing-gowns1 cloaks1 and capes1 also in boys' high dresses4 ,it is the part to which the skirt or deep cape is fulled1 and should be made to set particularly well to the figure1 else the whole dress will have an awkward appearance4 ,in making up1 the shoulder-pieces are generally lined1 unless they are intended for any light article of dress4 ,if they are meant for a cloak or warm cape1 a piece of fine flannel or demet1 is often put between the material of which the cloak is made and the lining1 with a piping round the edge4 ,a ,,neat ,,shoulder-,,piece ,,for ,a ,,woman',s ,,cloak4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------ ,nails4 ,width of square when doubled #c ,length of square #e ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,f to ,h #b ,space from ,h to ,i #b ------------------------------------ ,shape off in a gradual curve from ,d to ,b1 from ,b to ,i4 ,cut in a straight line from ,d to ,g4 ,slope from ,g to ,h4 ,,shoulder-,,piece ,,for ,a ,,child',s ,,cloak4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,scale4 ----------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square when folded #c ,space from ,a to ,b #c ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,d to ,e ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,e to ,g #a ,space from ,g to ,h #b ----------------------------------- ,cut in a straight line from ,c to ,j4 ,curve gradually from ,f to ,g1 and from ,b to ,h4 ,a ,,very ,,neat ,,shoulder-,,piece ,,for ,a ,,woman',s ,,cloak4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #c ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ---------------- ,shoulder-piece4 ,collar for a baby's cloak4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of square #d #d ,width of square when double #c #c ,space from ,a to ,b #b #a ,space from ,b to ,c #b #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a #a ,space from ,d to ,e #b #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a #b ,space from ,f to ,g #b #b ,space from ,g to ,h #a #b ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,form the curve from ,b to ,h1 so as to end without abruptness1 and be lost in the straight line4 ,round well from ,b to ,d4 ,,shoulder-,,piece ,,for ,a ,,baby',s ,,cloak4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------ ,nails4 ,length of square #c ,width of square when doubled #c ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c ,space from ,c to ,d ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,g to ,h #a ------------------------------------ ,,shoulder-,,piece ,,to ,a ,,child',s ,,pelisse4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this shape is much in use for spencers1 pelisses1 and boys' high dresses4 ,the part marked ,s sets over the shoulder when the sleeve is fulled on at the top4 ,the parts marked ,b and ,f lie in the middle1 exactly behind1 and in front2 thus the pattern shows half the shoulder-piece1 the curve being for half round the neck4 ,the other half is piped and sewed on to it in front1 and is fastened behind by buttons4 ,the fulness of the body is then sewed on to this shoulder-piece1 which is piped all round4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -- ,nails4 ,length of square #c ,width of square #c ,space from ,a to ,b ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,g to ,h1 and from ,h to ,l #a ---------------------------------------- -- ,,various ,,sizes ,,for ,,capes ,,and ,,tippets ,,for ,,women ,,and ,,children4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,column #a4 ,a woman's large cape for walking in4 ,column #b4 ,a woman's large cape for morning dress4 ,column #c4 ,a child's large cape for walking in4 ,column #d4 ,a woman's collar4 ,column #e4 ,a child's pretty cape for morning dress4 ,column #f4 ,a child's cape for a pelisse4 ,column #g4 ,pretty cape for the morning dress of a child of four or five years old4 ,the ,plate represents the pattern in the fourth column4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ---------------- ,no4 #a4,no4 #b4,no4 #c4,no4 #d4,no4 #e4,no4 #f4,no4 #g4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,nails4,nails4,nails4,nails4,nails4,nail s4,nails4 ,length of square #ab #i #h #g #h #g #f ,width of square doubled #h #g #e #e #e #d #d ,width from ,a to ,b #f #d #d #d #e #c #c ,width from ,b to ,c #f #e #d #c #c #d #c ,width from ,c to ,d #c #b #a #a #b #b #a ,width from ,d to ,e #e #e #d #c #b #b #c ,width from ,e to ,f #b #a #b #a #b #b #a ,width from ,f to ,g #a #a #a #a #a ,width from ,f to ,h #b #b #a #a #a #a #c ,width from ,h to ,i #g #e #d #d #d #c #c ,width from ,i to ,j #c #c #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,column #a4 ,a neat collar for a woman's cloak or dressing-gown4 ,column #b4 ,rather smaller pattern of the above4 ,column #c4 ,a very neat collar for a girl of fourteen4 ,column #d4 ,a collar for a baby's flannel cloak4 ,the ,plate represents column #b4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ---------------- ,no4 #a4,no4 #b4 ,no4 #c4,no4 #d4 ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,nails4,nails4 ,nails4,nails4 ,length of square #e #e #d #d ,width of square when doubled #e #e #e #e ,space from ,a to ,b #a #a corner rounded ,space from ,b to ,c #c #d #d #c ,space from ,c to ,d #c #c #b #b ,space from ,d to ,e #b #b #c #c ,space from ,e to ,f #b #b #a #a ,space from ,f to ,g #c #b #c #c ,space from ,g to ,h ---------------------------------------- --------------- ,in column #c1 mark one quarter of a nail above the corner1 ,g1 and slope off in a direct line from the mark to the opposite corner1 ,a1 which is merely rounded off at the corner1 about a quarter of a nail on each side4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,a pretty collar to put on a silk mourning shawl1 or for a dress or cloak4 ,both the back and front must be on the cross4 ,,scale4 -------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #g ,width of square #f ,space from ,a to ,b #e ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #e ,space from ,d to ,e #a ,space from ,e to ,f #c ,space from ,f to ,g #d ,space from ,g to ,h #b -------------------------- ,a ,,particularly ,,neat ,,and ,,well-,,setting ,,cape4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #ab ,width of square when doubled #h ,space from ,a to ,b #d ,space from ,b to ,c #h ,space from ,c to ,d #c ,space from ,d to ,e #e ,space from ,e to ,f #c ,space from ,f to ,g #b ,space from ,f to ,h #c ,space from ,h to ,i #e ,space from ,i to ,j #a ------------------------------------- ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #aj1 #aa4 ,fig4 #aa is a very pretty pattern for a walking cape1 and is often worn in mourning1 with black crape gaufiered round the edge a nail deep1 as in the ,plate4 ,fig4 #aj is a simple collarette1 which is sewed on the cape to give it a finish4 ,,scale ,,to ,,fig4 #aj4 ------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square when doubled #e ,space from ,a to ,b #a ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,c to ,d #b ,space from ,d to ,e #c ,space from ,e to ,f #b ,space from ,f to ,g #b ,space from ,g to ,h #b ------------------------------------- ,,scale ,,to ,,fig4 #aa4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #g ,width of square when doubled #aj ,space from ,a to ,b #f ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #d ,space from ,e to ,f #e ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,g to ,h #c ,space from ,g to ,i #f ,space from ,i to ,j #g -------------------------------------- ,a ,,remarkably ,,neat ,,morning ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #aj ,width of square when doubled #g ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c #g ,space from ,c to ,d #c ,space from ,d to ,e #d ,space from ,e to ,f #b ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,f to ,h #b ,space from ,h to ,i #e -------------------------------------- ,a ,,pretty ,,little ,,cape ,,for ,a ,,baby',s ,,cloak ,,or ,,pelisse4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #c ,width of square when doubled #c ,space from ,a to ,b #a ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #a ,space from ,e to ,f ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,f to ,h ,space from ,h to ,i #b -------------------------------------- ,,small ,,collar ,,to ,,be ,,sewed ,,to ,a ,,habit-,,shirt4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square when doubled #d ,space from ,a to ,b #a ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #c ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #c -------------------------------------- ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ae1 #af4 ,fig4 #ae1 is the pattern of a very handsome long pointed cape1 commonly worn to rich silk cloaks and sometimes alone2 when that is the case1 they are frequently made of velvet or fine cloth1 and trimmed with fur or swan's down4 ,the cape is made as follows3--,sew together three breadths of the material1 eight nails and a half long and about eight nails wide 7of course a less number of breadths will be required1 if the material be much wider1 as merinos1 c471 to each end of the three breadths thus sewed in one length1 add another breadth1 which1 as in ,fig4 #ae 7see ,a71 is eight and a half nails deep at one end1 and twelve nails deep at the other1 the material being cut in a straight line from ,b to ,c4 ,a ,,good ,,shape ,,for ,a ,,lady',s ,,riding ,,collar1 ,,to ,,be ,,sewed ,,to ,a ,,habit-,,shirt4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square when doubled #d ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #b ------------------------------------- ,these collars are made of a doubled piece of lawn1 which being run together and turned inside out1 are neatly stitched near the edge like gentlemen's collars4 ,a ,,chemisette ,,de ,,vierge1 ,,modesty1 ,,or ,,tucker4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,this is but a quarter of the article1 and when the paper pattern is made from the drawing1 it should be doubled1 so that when cut1 it forms half the chemisette1 which if it is again laid on a piece of muslin or net doubled1 the two sides may be cut at once4 ,chemisettes are worn under evening dresses1 and are trimmed with blonde1 lace1 or muslin edging1 which should just be seen above the gown4 ,the part marked ,s is the shoulder4 ,the chemisette is put on over the head and draws round the waist by a tape4 ,,scale4 -------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square #d ,space from ,a to ,b #c ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #c ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #c -------------------------- ,a ,,baby',s ,,collarette4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,this is particularly neat for a baby's pelisse1 and may be sewed on to the shoulder-piece4 7,fig4 #e74 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #c ,width of square when doubled #d ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f ,space from ,f to ,g #b ,space from ,g to ,h #a ,space from ,h to ,i #a ------------------------------------- ,this collarette should be piped all round1 and edged with work1 excepting the curve1 which goes half round the neck4 ,two half collarettes must be cut1 one for the right1 and one for the left side of the neck4 ,a ,,habit-,,shirt4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #bc4 ,fig4 #bc represents half of the back of a habit-shirt4 ,fig4 #bj1 one of the two fronts which are sewed on to the back at the shoulder1 the parts marked in each figure1 ,s1 being the corresponding pieces4 ,,scale ,,to ,,fig4 #bc4 ---------------------------------------- - ,nails4 ,length of the square #h ,width of the square when doubled #d ,space from ,a to ,b #f ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #b ,space from ,d to ,e #a ,space from ,e to ,f #a ---------------------------------------- - ,this back1 which1 of course is cut in the whole piece1 has a tape passed through a hem at the bottom1 which tape also passes through the hems at the bottom of the two fronts1 and ties before4 ,,scale ,,to ,,fig4 #bj4 ----------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of the square #f ,width of the square #f ,space from ,a to ,b #e ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,c to ,d #d ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,f to ,g #e ----------------------------------- ,this figure represents one of the fronts of the habit-shirt2 the part marked ,d is the front1 ,s is the shoulder2 where the two fronts meet they may be fastened by small buttons1 and sometimes work is let in1 or narrow tucks made1 which have a neat effect4 ,below the shoulder1 and down the front1 it is finished with a narrow hem4 ,a collar may be sewed to it at the neck1 by a mantua-maker's hem4 ,a ,,mourning ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,made of clear muslin1 white crape1 widow's lawn1 net or tulle1 with a broad hem one nail deep all round4 ,,scale4 -------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #e ,width of square #f ,from ,a to ,b #e ,from ,b to ,c #b ,from ,c to ,d #c ,from ,d to ,e #b ,from ,e to ,f #c -------------------------- ,the hems to these collars are generally laid on1 by being run at the edge1 and then turned back and hemmed1 this is a much neater plan than any other4 ,sometimes two collars with deep hems are worn one above the other4 ,for mourning collars of net with either a broad hem1 frills with deep hems1 or gaufiered frills are used4 ,if the mourning is very deep1 the muslin collar is covered with black crape4 ,a ,,round ,,cape ,,or ,,tippet4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,no scale can be made to this tippet1 as the size is only determined according to the purpose for which it is to be used4 ,form a perfect circle1 and slit from the outer edge of the circle ,a to the centre ,b1 after which cut out a piece for the neck4 ,this is a very good shape for school girls1 it also makes a useful dressing or combing tippet4 ,a ,,habit-,,shirt4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,this is a very simple neat shape for a habit-shirt4 ,t is the front1 and ,d the middle of the back4 ,it is all cut in one piece1 and the part marked ,b may be laid against the selvage2 ,s is the shoulder4 ,,scale4 -------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #f ,width of square #aj ,space from ,a to ,b #d ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,b to ,d #b ,space from ,d to ,e #f ,space from ,e to ,f #d -------------------------- ,cut in a straight line from ,c to ,a1 and square the corner off at ,a4 ,a ,,pelerine4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,the back is on the cross and the front is straight4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of oblong #g ,width of oblong when doubled #ac ,space from ,a to ,b #f ,space from ,b to ,c ,space from ,c to ,d #f ,space from ,d to ,e #c ,space from ,e to ,f #a ,space from ,e to ,g #d ,space from ,h to ,i #d ,space from ,i to ,j #a ,space from ,i to ,k #c ,space from ,k to ,l -------------------------------------- ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,this is a very simple collar1 and much worn by persons of quiet unassuming habits4 ,it is composed of two oblong strips of muslin1 hemmed all round with rather a broad hem1 and sewed together at the ends half the way up4 ,each oblong is four nails long and about three nails deep4 ,a ,,remarkably ,,pretty ,,pelerine ,,for ,a ,,morning ,,dress4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #e ,width of square #aa ,space from ,a to ,b #c ,space from ,b to ,c #a ,space from ,c to ,d #e ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #c ,space from ,f to ,g #b ,space from ,f to ,h #c ,space from ,h to ,i #e --------------------------- ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,this is the pattern of a very handsome long pelerine4 ,the part marked ,s must be laid along the selvage4 ,of course this is in two parts1 both of which will nearly lie side by side on the opposite selvages of the same breadth4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,length of the square #ba ,width of the square #h ,space from ,a to ,b #ad ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #d ,space from ,e to ,f #e ,space from ,f to ,g #b ,space from ,g to ,h #f ,space from ,h to ,i #d ,space from ,i to ,j #e ,space from ,j to ,k #a ,space from ,k to ,l #a ,space from ,i to ,m #aa ,space from ,m to ,n #d ------------------------------ ,a ,,handsome ,,shape ,,for ,a ,,pelerine ,,with ,a ,,square ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #bi4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #g ,width of square when doubled #ab ,space from ,a to ,b #f ,space from ,b to ,c #d ,space from ,c to ,d #b ,space from ,c to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #c ,space from ,f to ,g #c ,space from ,g to ,h #d ,space from ,h to ,i #a ,space from ,i to ,j #c ,space from ,i to ,k #b ,space from ,k to ,l #d ,space from ,l to ,m #d ,space from ,m to ,n #b -------------------------------------- ,the letters ,e1 ,f1 ,j1 and ,d1 point out the shape of the upper collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,this is a frill to go over each shoulder of a cape or pelerine1 as a finish1 and is peculiarly adapted to ,fig4 #be1 #bg4 ,,scale ,,to ,,fig4 #cj4 ----------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of the square #h ,width of the square #aj ----------------------------- ,draw a straight line across from ,a to ,b1 which are situated one nail within the corners of the square4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------ ,nails4 ,space from the corner to ,c #g ,space from ,c to ,e #b ,space from ,c to ,d #c ,space from ,f to the corner #a ------------------------------------ ,curve1 according to the pattern1 from the corner to ,e4 ,the cross part is then fulled on to the pelerine1 leaving about two nails from the front and back points4 ,a ,,cape ,,for ,a ,,baby',s ,,pelisse4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #e ,width of square when doubled #e ,space from ,a to ,b #c ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #a ,space from ,e to ,f #b ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,g to ,h #a ,space from ,h to ,i #b ,space from ,i to ,j #c -------------------------------------- ,,another ,,shoulder-,,piece1 ,,or ,,neat ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,if used for the latter1 it may be made with a hem all round1 through which a coloured or white satin ribbon may be drawn of about twopenny width4 ,a single or double frill of net should be sewed round it1 with a corresponding hem for ribbon4 ,this frill1 after the hem is made1 should be a full nail deep4 ,,scale4 -------------------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #d ,width of square when doubled #d ,space from ,a to ,b #b ,space from ,b to ,c #b ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #b ,space from ,e to ,f #a -------------------------------------- ,a ,,modesty1 ,,or ,,tucker4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,this little front1 or modesty1 is to put inside a low dress1 and may be made very prettily4 ,the materials most in use for them are cambric1 lawn1 muslin1 net1 tulle1 satin1 or crape4 ,they are generally tucked1 or in folds1 or frilled into strips of insertion-work1 either the length or the width-way1 and always trimmed with a little work or edging on the top4 ,when made1 they are about three nails deep1 and five nails wide at the top1 and tapering to three nails at the waist4 ,they are almost always made the straight way1 particularly when they are intended to wash4 ,a ,,simple ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,this is a particularly simple pretty collar1 and is frequently made of net or muslin1 trimmed with narrow work or muslin4 ,it has a broad hem all round1 through which satin ribbon is passed4 ,the collar is merely a straight piece1 eight nails deep and fourteen nails wide4 ,double it in half length-wise1 and also width-wise to find the centre1 and then cut in a straight line from ,a ,b1 at the top1 to the centre4 ,the points1 ,a ,b1 each fall over1 as seen in the ,plate1 and give the appearance of a second collar4 ,the ends should be a little hollowed out1 to make the whole set better4 ,,another ,,handsome ,,pelerine4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #h ,width of square #aa ,space from ,a to ,b #h ,space from ,b to ,c #d ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,c to ,e #b ,space from ,d to ,f #e ,space from ,f to ,g #d ,space from ,g to ,h #b ,space from ,h to ,i #b ,space from ,h to ,j #b ,space from ,j to ,k #g ,space from ,k to ,l #c ,space from ,k to ,m #b --------------------------- ,the corner or tip to be rounded off1 beginning at two nails from ,a1 at the bottom1 to one nail above ,a1 at the side4 ,a ,,round ,,collar4 ,,plate #ac4 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,this is a small and simple shape for a round collar1 with a smaller one upon it4 ,when the larger is cut1 the lesser one may be cut by the eye1 only taking notice to shape it off more abruptly in front than the other4 ,,scale4 --------------------------- ,nails4 ,length of square #f ,width of square #e ,space from ,a to ,b #c ,space from ,b to ,c #c ,space from ,c to ,d #a ,space from ,d to ,e #c ,space from ,e to ,f ,space from ,f to ,g #a ,space from ,f to ,h #b ,space from ,h to ,i #c --------------------------- ,a ,,school-,,girl',s ,,tippet4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #cg1 #ch4 ,this is an economical mode of making tippets for poor children1 or charity schools1 of remnants of cloth1 print1 c4 ,cut a circle in paper1 of the right size1 and pin it on the carpet or table cloth1 whilst you arrange strips of your material on it1 in regular lines1 as in the ,fig4 #cg2 two or three strips may cross each other at right angles2 between them should be other straight pieces1 and then triangular bits will fill up the circle4 ,black1 orange1 crimson1 blue1 and brown cloth1 look very well4 ,,another ,,school-,,girl',s ,,tippet4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #ci4 7,near to ,,fig4 #aj1 #af47 ,this is made of the list of flannel1 the selvage of cloth1 or any other warm material1 and is sewed on to calico2 cut a lining in the shape required1 and beginning at the bottom1 place layer above layer1 or strip above strip1 something in the way that the many capes of a coachman's great coat are done3 the list or cloth is not put on quite flat1 but is a very little fulled4 ,it is then lined with flannel or cloth1 and is a most comfortable and strong tippet4 ,,petticoats4 ,,plate #ad4 ,petticoats are made of calico1 twill1 dimity1 cambric1 and jaconet muslin1 sometimes for mourning1 or for wearing under thin dresses of silk and satin3 for the middling and lower classes1 they are of calico1 strong dimity1 calimanco1 stuff1 and bombazine3 they are made in various ways1 which will be described in the following pages1 and the patterns given3 the figures and sizes of persons differ so essentially that scales will not be attempted4 ,petticoats are in three distinct parts--the skirt1 the body1 and the sleeves1 the varieties of each will be treated of in their turn4 ,,skirts4 ,skirts have generally from two1 to two and a half-breadths in them1 according to the width of the material of which they are made3 they are sometimes finished at the bottom with a deep hem1 three nails broad1 tucks1 or worked muslin4 ,sometimes they are bought with cotton runners1 woven in them at the bottom1 six or eight nails deep1 which make the dress stand out1 and if the gown is of a clinging material1 causes it to hang better4 ,skirts are generally made with the opening behind1 but for elderly persons or servants1 it is at the sides1 the seams being left unsewed for about four nails from the top2 sometimes they are furnished with pockets on one or both sides2 for a description of which1 see ,pockets4 ,skirts may be set on to the body1 either equally full all round1 plain under the arms1 and full at the front and back1 or with all the fulness behind4 ,servants frequently wear their petticoats merely set into a tape round the waist1 without any body1 and with or without tape shoulder-straps1 to keep them up4 ,under or middle petticoats are also made in this manner4 ,,bodies ,,or ,,waists4 ,these are made either full or tight to the figure4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #ad4 ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bf ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #bi ,fig #cj ,fig #ca ,fig #cb ,fig #cc ,fig #cd ,fig #ce ,fig #cf ,fig #cg ,fig #ch ,fig #ci ,fig #dj ,fig #da ,fig #db ,fig #dc ,fig #dd ,fig #de ,fig #df ,fig #dg ,fig #dh ,fig #di ,fig #ej ,fig #ea ,fig #eb ,fig #ec ,fig #ed ,fig #ee ,tight or plain bodies consist of five parts3 the front1 two side-pieces1 and two backs 7see ,fig4 #a74 ,the front is always cut on the cross1 and reaches from below one arm to the other3 the side-pieces are also cut crosswise on one side1 and straight on the other1 the straight side being joined to the front1 and that which is cross being stitched to the backs1 which are straight behind4 ,fig4 #a represents a tight body made up1 for a small person4 ,observe that the various directions of the lines drawn on the engravings1 represents the selvage-way of the material1 as a better guide for the inexperienced4 ,in making up1 all the parts should be back-stitched together3 the band ought to be very strong2 it is often made of webbing or stout tape4 ,petticoat bodies may be made with or without sleeves1 according to the taste of the wearer4 ,full bodies are made in a similar manner to tight ones1 excepting that two nails more are added in width to the front1 so that when laid open it is ten nails and a half at its greatest extent1 instead of only seven and a half1 like the plain body1 and half a nail is also given to each back4 ,the front is cut straight instead of cross1 in the full bodies4 7,see ,plate #ad1 ,fig4 #b47 ,,sleeves4 ,for figures of sleeves1 see ,plate #ab and the descriptions annexed4 ,,nursing ,,petticoats4 ,,plate #ad4 ,for the convenience of those mothers who nurse their infants1 the petticoat body in front may be opened in various ways4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,the most general mode is simply to have the front of the body in two pieces1 so as to open in the middle before1 hemming it on each side1 and letting the parts tie or button together at the top3 it is as well to set the two sides of the front into the band1 so that they may overlap each other1 in order to guard against cold4 ,this petticoat fastens behind in the usual manner4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,another approved method is that of having the petticoat open on each side in front1 so as to be close at the back4 ,this petticoat body is made in four parts3 one back1 two side pieces1 one front4 ,the back piece is cut the straight way1 so as to let ,a ,b1 ,fig4 #d1 lie selvage-wise4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,nails4 ,depth from ,a to ,b #d ,width from ,g to ,d #f ,width from ,f to ,e #h ,slope it down to ,h ,h #a ,side-piece from below the arm to the waist #b ,from ,h to ,j #d ,from ,j to ,k cut straight-wise #c ,length of shoulder-straps #b ,breadth of shoulder-straps #a ---------------------------------------- ------------ ,the shoulder-straps connect the top of the side-piece with the top of the back4 ,the front of the body is in one piece1 being eight nails wide at the top1 sloped down to five nails and a half at the bottom2 it is four nails deep in the middle1 but being hollowed out1 is half a nail deeper at the sides4 ,this front has a broad hem all round it1 and is set into a band1 which is attached to the front breadth of the skirt1 the seam on each side of this breadth being open for the space of four nails4 ,tapes are attached to the band of the back breadth1 and tie in front2 buttons are set on1 to within a nail of the end of the band below the side pieces1 to which the band of the front buttons on each side1 and by this means overlaps the opening3 button-holes are also made at the two corners of the front 7see ,x ,z71 which correspond with the buttons on the shoulder-strap1 ,z4 ,the left hand side of ,fig4 #d represents the petticoat with the body drawn forward1 as if for the purpose of tying it1 while the opposite side shows it as if thrown back1 ready to put the arm into the sleeve4 ,the front is unfastened and has fallen down4 ,,gowns4 ,,plate #ad4 ,gowns being a part of dress much influenced by the fashion or custom of the day1 will not be fully entered on in this work1 as it would be impossible to give the variety of form and size which is seen in them1 and equally impossible1 were a selection attempted1 to please all tastes1 or suit all figures3 a few simple patterns for those kinds which are independent of fashion1 and especially for those worn by servants1 and persons engaged in laborious employments1 with a very few other plain ones1 will alone come within the limits of the work4 ,those commonly worn by servants1 and the working classes1 are of print1 linen1 stuff1 and for best1 light ginghams1 merino1 or bombazine2 ladies wear muslin1 gingham1 silk1 merino1 and for dress1 either lighter or richer materials1 as satins1 velvets1 gauzes1 c4 ,,general ,,observations4 ,the bodies of working gowns should be lined with strong linen1 which is preferable to calico1 as it does not shrink in the washing2 they should be of dark and good washing colours1 deep blue and lilac are the best for wear4 ,it is a good plan to line silk and merino1 or stuff gown bodies1 with strong linen or brown ,holland1 as it keeps them in shape1 by preventing them from stretching4 ,in buying striped dresses1 be careful that the stripes run selvage-wise1 otherwise they are very unbecoming4 ,in making up the bodies1 the stripes should lie in the same direction1 and not crosswise from shoulder to shoulder4 ,checks or plaids are rarely becoming when they are large3 for children they should be particularly small and narrow1 the colours should not be too bright or gay1 but sufficiently contrasted and decided1 to give a clear clean effect2 plaids of which the colours are pale and indistinct never look very well2 and after wearing a short time appear faded and shabby4 ,checks are becoming to tall people1 and stripes to short ones1 as the former rather diminish1 while the latter give an appearance of greater length to the figure than is natural to it1 in the same way that a striped paper makes a room look higher1 than one which is checked1 or of which the pattern goes round instead of from top to bottom4 ,broad hems and deep flounces also tend to lessen the height1 it may therefore be taken as a general rule that tall persons should endeavour to add to their width1 by making all the accompaniments to their dress as full and wide1 as is consistent with the reigning taste1 while those who are short1 should let all theirs be as moderate as possible4 ,the same observations will also apply to stout and thin persons2 for the former1 all trimmings of the bodies in front1 such as rouleaux1 folds1 and straps1 should1 generally speaking1 be carried from the shoulder to the waist1 in preference to being laid on crosswise2 while with those who are of a slighter make1 it is merely a matter of fancy1 only remarking that every advantage of fulness should be given them4 ,if the trimming of a dress does not exactly match it1 care should be taken to select it darker than the dress itself4 ,waistbands1 when shaded1 or of two colours1 should be always worn with the darkest shade or colour at the bottom of the waist4 ,the complexion should determine the choice of colours4 ,persons of a sallow or muddy complexion should carefully avoid bright and glaring1 or on the other hand1 undecided colours2 such as yellow1 cherry colour1 light green1 buff1 or drab2 clear tints are more suitable to them1 as white1 light blue1 violet1 or black4 ,those with pale but clear complexions1 may wear all the shades of rose colour1 primrose1 apricot1 buff1 light green1 lilac1 brown1 and violet4 ,fair persons with a colour1 will find few shades decidedly unbecoming2 perhaps it will be as well for them not to wear buff4 ,dark olive or brown complexions should avoid either very dark or very light colours1 but they should be careful to select clear tints3 pink1 geranium1 and violet are the most decidedly suitable to them4 ,on all occasions let the old saying be kept in mind1 8,gaudy colours strike the eye1 ,and magnify deformity40 ,these remarks may seem superfluous to some1 but as attention to the minuti of dress adds much to a lady-like and refined appearance1 and as an endeavour to please by an agreeable exterior1 does not necessarily involve a disposition to vanity and frivolity1 it is hoped that they will not be hastily condemned4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,cutting ,,out ,,dresses4 ,it would be useless to form scales for the different kinds of dresses1 as shapes vary so much1 therefore none will be introduced1 excepting for children and young persons2 as1 however1 this article of dress forms one of the most important parts of a person's wardrobe1 all general observations for cutting out1 that can be reduced to rule1 will be given as clearly as the subject will admit of1 at the same time1 it is strongly recommended to all those who can afford it1 to have their best dresses invariably made by a mantua-maker1 as those which are cut out at home seldom fit so comfortably1 or look so well1 as when made by persons in constant practice4 ,to those who have large families or limited means1 it certainly is a great saving of expense having them made at home1 and to such1 the following rules may be useful4 ,it would be very advisable1 as a practice1 for persons little acquainted with cutting out1 to purchase cheap print for poor children's dress and by fitting them on1 much experience and nicety might be acquired at little waste or expense4 ,in making a dress for any body1 the following measurements should be taken with a piece of common tape4 ,from the waist to the bottom of the skirt4 ,from the nape of the neck to the waist behind4 ,round the waist4 ,round the wrist4 ,from the shoulder to the wrist1 with the arm bent4 ,in sending to ,london or elsewhere for a dress or riding habit1 of which the exact measure is required1 observe the following directions for transmitting measure in inches3-- #a4 ,height of the person1 observing if they stand upright4 #b4 ,the length of the arm from the centre of the back to the elbow1 and thence to the knuckles4 #c4 ,the circumference of the body1 over the full part of the chest4 #d4 ,the circumference of the smallest part of the waist4 #e4 ,length of the nape of the neck to the waist1 and thence to the ground4 #f4 ,from the front of the armpit to the centre of the bosom1 thence to the chest4 #g4 ,from the nape of the neck1 over the shoulder1 to the centre of the bosom1 and thence to the waist immediately under it4 ,,plate #ad4 ,the bodies of dresses contain various parts1 called the fronts1 the backs1 the side-pieces1 the shoulder-straps1 the shoulder-pieces1 collars1 c41 c4 ,these parts are variously employed and differently cut out1 according to the style of the dress1 sometimes being on the cross1 and sometimes on the straight way4 ,observe that the lines in the engravings denote1 by their direction1 which way the selvage side of the material runs4 ,for the purpose of making this quite clear1 let it be supposed that these lines represent stripes which run along or down the selvage4 ,linings should always be cut to lie the same direction as the material of the gown4 ,in cutting out a dress1 it is usual to fit the lining upon the figure1 and cut out the gown from it1 though1 with an inexperienced person1 it would be advisable to fit on the gown also1 if the dress is to be full1 or in folds4 ,gowns are high1 low1 three-quartered1 plain1 or full1 open before or behind1 all of which sorts will be treated of in their proper order4 ,,side-,,pieces4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac4 ,most dresses have side-pieces or bits under the arm1 to join the backs to the fronts4 ,these side-pieces are cut variously4 ,for stout persons1 the selvage-way or stripe should run from the extreme point at the bottom of the back of the side-piece1 ,a1 towards the middle of the top1 ,b1 of ,fig4 #ab4 ,for slight figures1 the selvage-way or stripe should run along1 or nearly along the front of the side-piece1 thus ,a ,b1 in ,fig4 #ac4 ,the size of a side-piece depends much upon the figure and fashion4 ,it should never1 however1 be brought much forwarder than under the middle of the arm-hole4 ,it varies very much at the back1 sometimes being brought but just behind the arm-hole1 at others to within a nail of the middle of the back4 ,the side-piece is sometimes cut straight at the back1 and at others in a kind of half-arch2 the latter is required for stout persons4 ,,back ,,shoulder-,,pieces4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,these are not necessary to the set of the gown1 and are seldom introduced1 unless it is the reigning fashion1 or for the better cutting up of the material4 ,when these are used1 of course shoulder-straps are unnecessary1 as they connect the backs with the fronts4 ,a represents a back shoulder-piece4 ,,shoulder-,,straps4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #f1 #g4 ,these are mere straps to connect the fronts and backs1 and lie over the shoulder4 ,the straps are always double and are generally sloped at each end1 so as to be wider next the sleeve than at the shoulder or neck 7see ,fig4 #g74 ,,skirts4 ,these vary very much as to the number of breadths1 according to fashion and material4 ,thin clinging materials1 as muslin1 require more breadths than thick or standing out articles of dress1 as silk-gauze1 velvet1 c42 six1 seven1 or eight breadths are worn now for full dresses1 but formerly four breadths were deemed sufficient4 ,they are usually lined with thin glazed muslin1 unless the dress is very heavy as stuff1 merino1 c41 it is economical to line the skirt1 as it keeps the dress cleaner and makes it look better if turned4 ,a ,,plain ,,high ,,body4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,for stout persons1 indeed for the generality of figures1 it is preferable to have the fronts of the body in two pieces1 with a piping up the middle4 ,in cutting out a high plain body1 lay the material upon the person as follows3-- ,let the selvage-way or stripe of the cloth lie in the direction from the extreme point of the shoulder1 ,a 7see ,fig4 #h71 to the middle of the waist1 ,b4 ,in doing this1 pin it at a sufficient distance from the selvage of the material to allow of plenty to cover the front4 ,thus1 pin the material on at ,a ,b1 which is some distance from the selvage1 ,c ,d4 ,stroke the material up to the neck in front and hollow out at the neck1 putting pins at ,c ,e4 ,the front is thus thrown quite on the cross1 up the middle4 ,do the same on the opposite side4 ,hollow out towards the arm1 and cut off where it meets the side-piece4 ,the back pieces1 ,fig4 #i1 always have the selvage up the middle1 and are properly fitted to the figure till they meet the side-pieces4 ,in making up1 a piping is laid along each seam1 and the edges of the lining1 and the dress should be well overcast4 ,the sleeves have piping also round them4 ,the backs should have broad hems1 and1 together with the waist1 be lined with a strong tape or calico4 ,a ,,full ,,french ,,high ,,body4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #aj1 #aa1 #ad4 ,this body is also in two parts in front4 ,the material is pinned for the selvage-way1 or stripe to run from the side of the neck or collar bone1 ,a1 to the middle of the waist1 ,b 7in ,fig4 #aj71 so as to throw the part up the front but slightly on the cross4 ,put strong pins in at ,a ,b ,c1 to keep the material firm1 and then commence laying the material in plaits 7see ,fig4 #aa71 slanting from the shoulder towards the waist1 folding them much deeper at the waist than at the top2 five1 six1 or seven of these plaits are sufficient4 ,in laying them along they should be arranged so that when the last plait is formed1 and the plain part of the body pinned under the arm1 the selvage-way or stripe should lie almost parallel with1 or along with1 the waist 7see ,l ,m1 in ,fig4 #aa74 ,the backs1 ,fig4 #ad1 are always selvage-way up the middle2 the plaits1 about three in number1 should lie from the shoulder to the middle of the waist in a fan-like direction4 ,they will almost form themselves properly at the top on the shoulder1 if first properly pinned on the waist1 and the material held up1 and slightly pulled or shaken above the shoulder1 with one hand1 while the other arranges them4 ,they will naturally fall in deeper folds below than above4 ,a ,,wrap ,,high ,,dress4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,this has two fronts1 to be cut out as follows3-- ,lay the merino1 or other material1 selvage or stripe-wise from the top of the shoulder1 ,a1 to a little beyond the middle of the waist1 so as to throw the body a little on the cross up the middle4 ,the plaits must be formed1 while on the person1 one after another1 slanting from the shoulder1 across the middle1 to the opposite side of the waist4 ,these plaits should be so folded1 as to make the plain part1 under the arm1 fall selvage-wise along the band4 ,the back is made to correspond1 the selvage is straight up the back1 and the material being held tightly above the shoulder at the top1 with one hand1 the three or four plaits are the more easily arranged by the other1 and should be folded over more deeply at the bottom than upon the shoulder4 ,these plaits should exactly meet the others on the shoulder4 ,the backs and fronts join under the arm without side-pieces4 ,in making up1 the plaits should be secured on the shoulder1 with a pipe or strap1 and again secured about half a nail on each side of the shoulder4 ,the fronts cross1 or wrap over1 and are well secured to the waistband4 ,a ,,high ,,full ,,gown1 ,,to ,,open ,,in ,,front4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #af1 #ag4 ,these are particularly suitable for house-maids1 dairy or kitchen-maids1 chair and washerwomen2 they should be made of the strongest print1 at #h;d4 or #as4 per yard4 ,it is bad economy to buy a cheap poor material for a working dress1 under the idea that it will do very well for common purposes1 when it is of importance that they should stand a good deal of wear and tear4 ,for a young person1 the skirt is in three breadths of extra-width print1 of about eighteen nails2 the seams must be sewed up1 making one come in the front1 which must overlap half a nail down the whole length of the skirt1 leaving the hem or seam open for about four nails below the waist4 ,the body is six pieces1 having one back1 two fronts1 two side-pieces1 and one collar4 ,the two fronts are selvage-wise up the middle1 and are cut as follows3--,pin the material selvage-wise at ,a1 and at the bottom1 lay it in plaits or fullings along the shoulder1 to lie towards the waist1 and smooth the plain part to fit the shape1 till it meets the side-piece1 cut it off1 and hollow it under the arm4 ,the back-piece1 ,fig4 #ag1 is in one piece with the selvage1 to lie up the middle2 therefore1 pin it firmly at the middle of the top1 ,a1 and at the waist just below1 ,b4 ,lay the material on each side in fullings or plaits1 pinning them down here and there1 and1 after arranging them at the top1 along the back and shoulders1 smooth down the plain part1 hollow out at the arm-holes1 and cut along the shoulders4 ,cut the side-piece next1 and then make a neat simple collar2 one like ,fig4 #g1 in ,plate #ac1 would be very suitable4 ,in making up1 after cutting out your tight lining1 lay each part of the gown upon each piece of the lining1 and begin to stitch strongly together all the pieces1 laying a piping up every seam1 and over-casting the rough edges inside1 to make them wear well and look neat4 ,the sleeves are short 7see ,fig4 #bd1 in ,plate #ab74 ,the collar and arm-holes are also piped4 ,make a broad hem up each side of the front1 and put the body into the band2 let the fulness be pretty even along the piping on the shoulder1 but bring it rather towards the middle of the waistband1 in front4 ,the fulness behind is regular along the shoulders and collar1 but drawn towards the centre of the back1 at the band4 ,sew the body on the skirt1 put strings or bands1 of the same material1 of about one nail wide1 to tie the dress at the throat4 ,the waistband is one nail deep and about eleven nails long1 and can either button or fasten with a strong hook and eye in front4 ,a ,,high ,,body1 ,,to ,,open ,,in ,,front4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,this shape is often worn by elderly ladies1 sometimes by servants1 and is convenient1 as it enables the wearer to dress herself without the assistance of a maid4 ,the gown is open down the two seams at the sides for about four or five nails1 so that the front ties round the waist like an apron1 being of course well fulled in front into a band1 to which strings are attached4 ,the slits at the sides form pocket holes4 ,the body is sewed on to the skirt behind and opens in front4 ,it has one back1 which1 if full1 is cut with the selvage-way or stripe to lie straight down from the neck to the waist1 but if plain1 it should be on the cross4 ,the fronts are generally on the cross with the material cut to lie with the stripe or selvage-way1 from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist4 ,the fronts are continued so as to pin down at the waist1 one across the other1 over which the front breadth or apron ties4 ,,plain ,,low ,,body4 ,pin the material with the selvage-way or stripe1 to lie from the extreme point of the shoulder to the middle of the waist1 so as to throw the body quite on the cross up the middle1 which is joined with a piping4 ,the backs are always selvage-wise up the middle4 ,join the backs and fronts with a piping on the shoulder1 also at the seams1 for the side-pieces4 ,stitch up the plaits that are made at the bosoms4 ,,another ,,french ,,low ,,plain ,,front4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,this is in five pieces1 two backs1 one front1 and two side-pieces4 ,the front is all in one piece1 and in cutting it out1 the material is pinned with the selvage-way or stripe up the middle4 ,pin it firmly at ,a and ,b1 at the top and bottom of the middle of the body4 ,lay the material along to the shoulders1 and pin it down again at ,c4 ,slope with the scissors from the point of the shoulder to a peak down at the front4 ,the backs are likewise cut selvage-wise up the middle1 and peaked from the back to the shoulders3 the side-pieces are joined to the front and back by a piping4 ,make the bosom plaits and stitch them up4 ,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,trimming ,,low ,,bodies ,,when ,,tight ,,to ,,the ,,figure4 ,,plate #ad4 ,tight or plain bodies require some ornament or finish to set them off1 a few neat methods of putting on folds1 c41 will therefore be explained4 ,plate #ad1 ,fig4 #bj1 represents a plain body with the folds sewed on4 ,these folds are in two parts one for each side of the body in front4 ,they are cut crosswise and are only suitable to those gowns which are not of a washing material1 they should be from nine to ten nails wide1 and as long as will reach from the shoulder to the middle of the waist4 ,in making them up stitch them firmly down on the shoulder in regular plaits1 and again about a nail in front of the shoulder4 ,arrange them as regularly at the waist1 sewing them firmly into the middle of the band1 exactly to meet or correspond with the folds of the other side4 ,plate #ad1 ,fig4 #ba1 represents a plain body with loose folds upon it1 the body is made exactly like that of a petticoat1 the front may or may not be in two parts1 according to pleasure1 and convenience2 if there is a joining1 a piping should be laid between the two parts4 ,if the dress is of a washing material1 the folds should be the straight way1 and the cross-way if it is not4 ,the straight folds are merely a piece of muslin or print1 six and a half or seven nails long and about seven nails wide1 gathered at the top1 and neatly biassed two or three times at intervals of half a nail2 the upper gathering is then sewed very strongly on the shoulder1 where the front joins the shoulder-strap2 the bottom is simply hemmed4 ,when worn1 this piece is folded in large or small plaits1 according to the taste of the wearer1 and neatly pinned across under the waist ribbon4 ,this method of making muslin1 gingham1 or print dresses1 is very convenient for the washerwoman4 ,the loose cross-way folds are very similar4 ,the piece of silk1 or other material1 must be six nails and a half or seven nails long1 and nine nails wide4 ,it is secured1 both at the top and bottom1 in the proper folds1 as in this instance no advantage can accrue from the piece being left unconfined at the bottom1 as in the washing gowns4 ,the top is sewed on the shoulder1 and1 when worn1 the folds are pinned under the waist ribbon1 as in the kind described above4 ,other modes of ornamenting plain bodies are so various1 it would be endless to have plates to illustrate each--suffice it to say that bands or rouleaux of satin1 silk1 gauze1 c41 are often laid in various forms4 ,for white gowns1 straps1 with a neat piping at one or both sides1 are generally made2 also puffings1 frillings1 and flouncings4 ,for silks1 merinos1 c41 satin1 silk1 or velvet pipings1 to straps of the same material as the gown1 look well4 ,sometimes gaufiered or quilled ribbon or lace is employed4 ,for children1 braid1 bobbin1 or coarse netting silk is laid or worked on1 in every variety of pattern4 ,a ,,french ,,full ,,low ,,body4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #bb1 #bc4 ,this dress is composed of a kind of plain shoulder-piece round the top1 to which the body is fulled all round4 ,this piece is cut as follows3-- ,lay the material with the selvage-way or stripe down the middle of the top1 in front 7see ,a1 ,fig4 #bb71 to the extreme point of the shoulder1 ,b1 and pin it firmly down4 ,begin to cut at ,e1 which is at a little distance within ,b1 and slope it along to the middle1 ,a1 making it a little on the cross4 ,cut again1 according to taste1 either in a peak or slope1 from ,b to ,d4 ,the backs1 which are made to accord with the fronts1 are quite straight at the bottom1 but a little sloped or hollowed at the top4 ,the fulling for the body is cut variously1 according to the texture of the dress4 ,cotton1 muslin1 or other thin dresses should have the fulness set in with the selvage-way up the middle2 but silk1 merino1 and other thick dresses are made otherwise4 ,this body is sometimes set in plaits1 and is exceedingly pretty4 ,in this case1 the width-way of the material lies up the middle4 ,a ,,grecian ,,low ,,body4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #bd1 #be4 ,this is a remarkably pretty shape1 but requires great nicety in arranging it1 to make it fit well4 ,turn up the corner of your material half-handkerchief way until sufficiently wide1 ,a to ,b1 to reach amply from the middle of the top of the body in front1 across the bosom1 to the shoulder4 ,the folded part1 ,a ,c1 must next be laid down the middle of the front4 ,pin ,a to the top of the middle1 and ,b to the shoulder1 and begin to make four or five plaits to lie in the same direction1 making them swell more in the middle than at the ends4 ,in arranging these plaits fold in plenty of the material1 or they will not set well4 ,smooth the remainder to the figure1 and hollow out under the arm4 ,as the material is double1 both sides are thus cut at once4 ,the plaits should be secured twice or three times on the shoulder4 ,the backs1 as usual1 selvage-wise down the middle1 and a few plaits may or may not be added along the top4 ,a ,,simple ,,full ,,body4 ,let the width-way of the material lie up the middle in front1 and plait it in straight regular folds from top to bottom1 letting the last fold be rather deeper1 in order to throw the plain part of the body more on the cross4 ,these plaits or fullings should slant a little towards the middle in a fan-like shape4 ,,full ,,low ,,body4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #bf1 #bg1 #bh1 #bi4 ,this is only worn by very young persons and children4 ,it is made nearly like a full petticoat body4 ,the front is in one piece1 and may be either the straight or the cross-way1 according to pleasure4 ,that in the ,plate is a good average size for a girl of ten years old4 ,the pattern should be cut first in paper4 ,fig4 #bg is the front1 ,d being the doubled part4 ,the measurements need not be repeated1 as they are quite accurately given in the ,plate4 ,the reason why the front is so much sloped at the lower part1 is to make it set better than it would do if left straight2 and it is considered preferable to slope the bottom rather than the top of the body3 of course it is gathered and sewed to the band in the usual manner4 ,fig4 #bh is one back1 and ,fig4 #bi a side-piece4 ,in making up1 if the top of the body is set into a narrow band1 instead of having a string-case1 the fulness should be pretty equal all round1 only making it a little plainer towards the shoulders1 but at the bottom of the waist the gathers should be drawn towards the centre1 both in front and at the back1 which gives a becoming fan-like appearance to it4 ,,velvet ,,dresses4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,velvet dresses have frequently a breadth of satin put in behind1 as velvet injures by being sat upon4 ,the great object is to put in the satin so that it shall not be seen when the person who wears it is standing or walking4 ,there are various methods of doing this4 ,the following is one of the best4 ,the piece of satin is sewed in at the back1 in addition to the full number of breadths of velvet4 ,after joining the breadths together1 and lining the whole skirt1 the two back breadths of velvet are sewed together at the bottom for the depth of about half a yard1 the satin being plaited up within them1 and not seen at all4 ,at the top the opening or pocket-hole behind is made in the satin1 but not in the velvet1 as the two back breadths of velvet are left open all the way up from the half-yard at the bottom1 previously mentioned1 having the satin between them4 ,the gathers of velvet are sewed in the usual manner into the band1 but the satin is sewed back on each side within it1 so that when the gown is unfastened the pocket-hole gapes open1 and the dress has the appearance given in ,fig4 #cj4 ,s1 in the ,plate1 means the satin1 and the ,v1 velvet breadths of the skirt4 ,instead of putting in a satin breadth1 some persons have the back breadth of velvet wadded1 which is said to answer well4 ,,nursing ,,gowns4 ,these must vary according to the pattern of the gown4 ,in a body with folds laid on1 the openings must be made in the bosom-gore on each side1 which button up1 having a fold or flap of silk behind1 to prevent any danger of taking cold4 ,sometimes a tight body may be made cut in a point from the shoulders to one nail above the waist3 over this1 full loose folds1 confined at the shoulder1 may be pinned over at the waist4 ,a third may be made like a pelisse body1 open in the middle of the front4 ,,children',s ,,frocks ,,and ,,tunics4 ,,plate #ad4 ,these should be made of strong and washing materials1 as children should be allowed to have full exercise1 and not be restrained from running and rolling about1 both in doors and out3 for this purpose 7unless from its extreme delicacy a child requires much additional warmth7 cloth1 merino1 and stuffs are not good or suitable for them2 neither are silk1 velvet1 or gauze1 as they soon become dirty and look tumbled1 and the child cannot play with ease or comfort4 ,jeans1 twills1 prints1 ,holland1 and nankeen are most proper for the morning dress1 and white or coloured muslin1 or fine twill1 and sometimes washing silks1 for an evening4 ,for children's simple frocks1 refer to the ,scales belonging to the description of baby's frocks4 ,,children',s ,,simple ,,plain ,,frocks4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ca1 #cb1 #cc1 #cd4 ,this is the most simple body that can be made1 and equally suited to boys and girls4 ,the body is in three parts--namely1 two backs and one front4 ,the front is cut along the width of the material1 and joins the backs on the top of the shoulders and below the arms1 so as to require neither side-pieces nor shoulder-straps4 ,this front lies quite plain to the figure1 but the backs are made to have two plaits and a broad hem4 ,this body can be ornamented in various ways1 either with braid sewed on1 or by capes4 ,a very pretty cape is made by cutting a diamond 7see ,fig4 #cc71 and hollowing it out on the inside exactly to correspond with the neck of the frock4 ,fig4 #ca represents half the body in front4 ,fig4 #cb represents half the body behind1 when cut out4 ,fig4 #cc represents the diamond for the cape4 ,fig4 #cd represents the front1 when made up4 ,the sleeves may be plain1 like petticoat sleeves1 having three frills laid upon them1 and braided at the edge4 ,the skirt to a frock of this size would be about nine nails1 including the deep hem of two nails1 and about two and a half-breadths wide1 each breadth being thirteen nails wide4 ,if there are pockets in front1 the slits may be braided round1 and are two nails and a half deep4 ,in making up1 the body and cape are sewed firmly together to a band at the top1 which is ornamented by two lines of braid4 ,the skirt is evenly gathered behind1 the gathers lying close together4 ,the remainder is laid in regular plaits all round4 ,the band round the neck is ten nails long1 cut crosswise1 and the waistband ten nails long1 cut selvage-wise4 ,a ,,child',s ,,full ,,frock4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ce1 #cf4 ,this body is also in three parts1 the front and two backs4 ,they are very much fulled1 and are both cut the width-way of the material1 so that the selvage-way goes up the middle1 both before and behind4 ,for a child of three1 four1 or five years old1 cut the body as follows3-- ,cut for each back a piece of six nails along the width-way1 and two nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material4 ,cut for the front a piece of thirteen nails along the width-way1 and two nails and three-quarters down the selvage-way of the material4 ,fold the front in two1 very evenly1 and lay the two backs upon the two ends of the double front1 and pin the four thicknesses together1 so as to lie quite firmly and evenly one upon the other1 as in ,fig4 #ce4 ,then with the scissors1 after sloping one nail for below the arm1 ,a ,b1 begin to cut1 ,b ,d1 for the arm-hole1 cutting into the cloth about half a nail at ,c4 ,slope from ,d1 which is half a nail from the top1 to ,e1 for the shoulder1 letting the part1 ,d ,e1 be three-quarters of a nail4 ,hollow down from ,e to ,f one nail1 letting ,f to ,g be quite straight1 for the bosoms and backs2 from ,g to the bottom is one nail and three-quarters deep4 ,in making up1 after sewing the backs to the front and putting in the sleeves1 begin to full in the body to the band round the neck1 leaving it plain both before and behind1 for about one nail and a quarter from the sleeve4 ,this band is about eleven nails long1 and should be cut on the cross2 being doubled in quarters1 mark the points for the middle behind and before1 and for the two shoulders4 ,the waistband is also eleven nails selvage-way1 and one nail and a quarter wide4 ,the body is gathered at the waist1 exactly to correspond with the top4 ,the skirt of two and a half-breadths1 of thirteen nails width1 is gathered 7not plaited7 all round quite evenly4 ,the sleeves are the usual shape 7see ,plate #ab1 ,fig4 #bg or #cb74 ,a braid may be laid along the top and band1 round the sleeves and the broad hem1 and the whole is completed4 ,,child',s ,,simple ,,three-,,quarters ,,dress4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,the body has one front and two backs4 ,for the front1 cut a piece of thirteen nails width-way1 and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material2 and the back pieces each six nails width-way1 and two nails and three-quarters selvage-way of the material4 ,in cutting the arm-holes1 leave one nail and three-quarters under the arm1 and cut into the cloth three-quarters of a nail4 ,leave nearly three-quarters of a nail for the shoulders4 ,in making up the frock1 prepare a piping of ten nails and a half long1 and a waistband of eleven nails and a half4 ,divide the piping into four parts1 and then begin laying the plaits to go from the shoulders rather towards the middle of the waist1 as in ,fig4 #aj1 sewing them firmly with piping at the top4 ,the back is similar to the front4 ,the skirt is laid in regular plaits all round4 ,the sleeves are fulled or plaited evenly at the shoulder1 and confined by a strap a little below it4 ,a frill may be put round the sleeve4 ,a ,,child',s ,,plain ,,dress4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #ch1 #ci1 #dj4 ,this frock has two backs1 two side front-pieces1 and one centre front-piece4 ,the backs1 ,fig4 #ch1 are cut with the selvage-way up the middle2 they are first fitted on the figure to set plainly1 afterwards1 allowing two extra nails in width for the fulness1 they are hollowed out for the arm-hole1 leaving one nail and a half under the arm4 ,the side fronts1 ,fig4 #ci1 are cut a little on the cross1 so that the selvage-way or stripe leans in the same direction with the strap or piping which joins the centre-piece4 ,the centre-piece1 ,fig4 #dj1 is cut quite on the cross1 for which purpose1 turn up a piece of material half-handkerchief way1 and lay it in fourteen or fifteen regular plaits4 ,this centre-piece1 when plaited up1 should form a triangular piece of two nails deep1 three nails and a half at its greatest width1 and half a nail at its narrowest4 ,put a band from each side of the triangle to the back1 to confine the gathers4 ,the front requires no band4 ,a ,,child',s ,,full ,,frock4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #da4 ,this frock has body and skirt all cut in one piece4 ,for a child's frock1 of two1 four1 or five years old1 cut two breadths and a half of the proper length1 from the shoulder to the bottom of the skirt4 ,double it in four1 like a pinafore1 slope for the shoulder1 and hollow it out for the arm-holes4 ,cut a band crosswise of the proper length1 from ten to twelve nails1 and pipe it on each side2 after which1 confine the top into it in regular gathers4 ,after marking a proper depth for the body1 gather the skirt again in two rows1 upon which lay a waistband piped on each side4 ,to this dress may be worn long sleeves1 which are piped round the arm-hole1 and plaited evenly with a strap a little below1 to confine the plaits4 ,this dress is very pretty1 when made in spotted or figured muslins or prints4 ,the piping should be matched with the darkest shade on the dress4 ,sometimes three buttons1 covered with the same as the piping1 are worn on the shoulders4 ,,child',s ,,morning ,,dress4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #db4 ,this looks very neat when made of ,holland1 and is a useful dress to put on1 for keeping the under clothes clean2 it also looks well in any other material4 ,the skirt and body1 all in one1 is doubled in four1 and the arm-holes cut from the top1 without sloping any for the shoulders4 ,a shoulder-piece is made of the proper size 7see ,plate #ac71 to which the skirt is fulled1 with a piping1 in regular plaits4 ,set on the sleeves also to the shoulder-piece1 and full the skirt again in two rows1 on which lay the waistband1 also piped4 ,a collar or neck-band is put on1 to finish it at the neck4 ,the sleeves are strongly biassed1 or confined by a strap1 laid on regular plaits1 a little below the shoulder4 ,,dress ,,for ,a ,,boy ,,of ,,four ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,this little frock may be worn with or without trowsers4 ,the width must be regulated of course by that of the material2 if nankeen is preferred1 it being only six nails wide1 six breadths must be put in4 ,divide it into four1 cut the arm-holes and a slit behind1 put in the sleeves1 and then set it in double plaits all round1 behind1 and before1 to a band the proper width to fit the child's neck4 ,on the edge of each plait1 lay a piece of silk braid1 which reaches to the waist and then turns and is brought up at the other side 7see the ,plate74 ,a runner or string-case is made inside1 at the bottom of the waist1 for strings to draw1 and a deep hem at the bottom of the frock4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,jean ,,tunic4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #df1 #dg4 ,this is worn by boys of five and six years old1 with trowsers of white or some material to match the dress1 which is of coloured jean or gingham cloth4 ,cut a shoulder-piece similar to ,fig4 #e1 ,plate #ac4 ,the skirt is in three breadths1 and when they are sewed together1 it is doubled like a pinafore1 to cut out the arm-holes4 ,it is then gathered before and behind to the shoulder-piece1 which has previously been piped all round4 ,the sleeves are also fulled into the shoulder-piece1 leaving sufficient plain of them to sew into the arm-hole of the skirt1 which is about one nail and a half deep4 ,a robing is put on in the front4 ,the dress is braided in front1 and round the shoulder-piece and collar4 ,the bottom of the skirt is turned up two nails and a half1 and braided above the hem4 ,the dress is open behind4 ,a belt is cut out1 as in ,fig4 #dg1 which is braided round each square1 and fastens behind with hooks and eyes1 or buttons4 ,the sleeve is finished with braiding4 ,,surtout ,,for ,a ,,boy ,,of ,,five ,,or ,,six ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ad4 ,,fig4 #dd1 #dh1 #di1 #ej1 #ea1 #eb4 ,this is made of cloth1 lined with silk or net1 according to pleasure1 and trimmed with flat black braid4 ,the body is separate from the skirt4 ,the former is in five parts2 viz4 the back1 two side-pieces1 and two fronts4 ,for the back1 ,fig4 #ej1 let your paper be four nails long1 and five nails and a half wide4 ,fold it in half its width1 letting ,d be the doubled part or middle of the back4 ,mark as follows3-- ,,scale4 --------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #b ,from ,b to ,c ,from ,c to ,e #a ,from ,e to ,f #a ,from ,f to ,g #a ,from ,a to ,h #a --------------------- ,cut from ,h to ,b1 and from ,c to ,f4 ,for the front1 ,fig4 #ea1 cut your paper three nails and three-quarters wide and five nails and a quarter long4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from the bottom to ,j #a ,from ,k to the side #a ,from ,k to the top ,from ,l to ,m #b ,from ,m to ,n #a ,from ,n to ,o #b ,from ,p to the side ------------------------------ ,slope from ,j to ,k for the arm-hole4 ,cut from ,k to ,m for the shoulder4 ,from ,m to ,o for the neck4 ,slope from ,o to ,p4 ,for the side-piece1 ,fig4 #eb1 cut your paper one nail and a half wide and three nails long4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,q to ,r #a ,from the side to ,s ,from the top to ,s ,from ,t to ,u ---------------------------- ,cut from ,v to ,r1 and again from ,r to ,s4 ,curve from ,s to ,t4 ,the small collar1 or band1 is attached to ,o ,m1 ,fig4 #ea1 and ,f ,g1 ,fig4 #ej4 ,of course the other side of the body is made up in a similar manner4 ,the skirt must be next put together1 and the back-piece1 ,fig4 #dh1 being opened1 the two fronts1 ,fig4 #di1 being also opened out1 ,c ,f1 ,fig4 #dh1 is sewed to ,g ,h1 ,fig4 #di1 it is then set on to the body in regular plaits1 and left open in the front4 ,the body should be lined entirely with tailors' twilled silk1 and part of the front breadths with the same1 each with half a breadth of silk4 ,the parts should all be strongly and neatly back-stitched together1 and braid laid on all the seams of the body4 ,the hooks and eyes are put on between the lining and the cloth4 ,the skirt is hemmed and braided in front4 ,the dress is worn with a broad black band4 ,trowsers made to button at the side1 and an under waistcoat1 are worn with this surtout4 ,,child',s ,,first ,,pelisse ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #de1 #ec1 #ed1 #ee4 ,these are made of gingham1 jean1 cloth1 merino1 or silk4 ,the former are the best for the summer1 and cloth for the winter4 ,for the skirt1 take three breadths of about eleven nails wide and nine nails long4 ,sew up the seams1 make a deep hem of one nail and a half1 on which is sewed a broad flat braid4 ,the opening behind or pocket-hole1 should be made in one of the seams4 ,the body is in three parts1 besides the collar2 viz4 one front and two back pieces4 ,for the front-piece1 ,fig4 #ec1 cut your paper seven nails wide and three nails and a half long4 ,fold it in half its width1 making it a perfect square1 and letting ,d be the doubled part1 as in ,fig4 #ec4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b ,from the corner1 ,b1 to ,c #a ,from the side to ,e ,from the top to ,e ,from the lower corner to ,f #a ,from the corner to ,g #b ------------------------------------ ,curve from ,a to ,c4 ,cut straight from ,c to ,e4 ,curve1 for the arm-hole1 from ,e to ,f4 ,cut in a line from ,f to ,g4 ,for the back1 ,fig4 #ed1 cut your paper three nails and a half square4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b ,from ,b to the top #b ,from the top to ,o ,from the side to ,o ,from the corner to ,f #a ,from the corner to ,h ,from ,a to ,j ------------------------------ ,cut from ,j to ,b4 ,curve from ,b to ,o4 ,cut in a straight line from ,o to ,f4 ,curve gently from ,f to ,h4 ,the collar is in two parts4 ,for each part let your paper pattern be three nails wide and two nails and a half long4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,n to the bottom #a ,from ,o to the corner #a ,from ,j to the top ,from ,j to ,k ,leaving from ,k to ,l #a ,from the corner to ,m #a ------------------------------ ,slope from ,o to ,n1 and from ,o to ,j4 ,curve from ,k to ,m4 ,in making up1 sew ,o ,f1 ,fig4 #ed1 to ,e ,c1 ,fig4 #ec1 for the shoulder4 ,f ,g1 ,fig4 #ec1 is placed against ,b ,j1 ,fig4 #ed4 ,the skirt is fulled on evenly all round4 ,the collar1 cuffs1 and top of the hem may have a bordering of braid or work1 and a trimming of the same may be put down the front of the skirt4 ,a cape1 or tippet1 is added to it1 which is made separate4 ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,lady',s ,,wardrobe4 8,order is the best economy of time40 ,it is of great consequence that dresses should be carefully and neatly put away1 as their preservation depends much on the attention paid to this3 a gown smoothly folded1 and laid by directly it is taken off1 will last half as long again as one that is thrown about upon dirty chairs1 or tumbled and creased in the wrapping up4 ,the dresses that are in constant use may be hung up in a closet2 but those that are only occasionally worn1 should be folded up and wrapped either in a linen cloth1 or covered with the coarsest brown paper2 the latter is particularly good for white silk or satin dresses1 as the turpentine in it excludes the air1 and thus preserves the colour more effectually than any thing else4 ,the best way to fold up a dress1 either when put away or packed up1 is as follows3-- ,place your gown upon a bed1 so that the front and back breadths1 lay one upon the other quite flatly1 the back breadth being uppermost1 and the slit behind in the centre1 then fold the two outer sides over1 so as to make them meet down the middle of the back2 take hold at the bottom of the skirt1 and double it underneath the gown for about a quarter of a yard deep1 then fold the upper part of the skirt forwards1 to lie above it1 turn back the body and arrange it and the sleeves neatly1 so as not to crush them or the trimming1 turning the sleeves in towards the middle2 then take hold of the upper two folds of the gown1 and by lifting them up1 the tail falls down again without displacing the upper part of the dress3 this tail or bottom of the gown is then turned up over the sleeves and body3 a pin is put in at each end1 and thus the dress may be carried about1 or packed up1 without tumbling it in the least4 ,it may be well to mention that the reason the bottom of the skirt is turned up in the first instance1 is to determine the size to which the body is to be folded1 and the reason why it is let down in the second1 is1 that it may preserve the body1 c41 from being crushed4 ,the dress may be folded to fit any drawer or trunk by wrapping the sides more or less over each other in the middle4 ,this is called the ,french method of folding2 it may appear rather complicated at first1 but by exactly following the directions here given1 and a little practice1 it will soon become easy4 ,to wrap up a child's frock1 place it on a bed1 so that the front and back breadths lie one upon the other quite flatly1 the back being uppermost2 fold the skirt once or twice1 according to the length1 letting the body lie upon the skirt1 and turn the two ends over the centre4 ,after travelling1 dresses are apt to be creased1 they should therefore be hung up1 either in a closet1 or on hooks fixed in the wall2 they should never be pinned to bed or window curtains1 as this very bad practice is apt to tear the chintz4 ,care should be taken to separate mourning from coloured dresses1 winter clothing from that worn in the summer1 perfectly white articles from those of a dark colour1 as they are liable to be soiled and injured by coming in contact with each other4 ,stains1 grease spots1 c41 c41 should always be taken out as soon as possible1 or they may become fixed in the silk or other material 7see ,receipts74 ,after walking in dusty or dirty weather1 the dress should be carefully wiped with a clean towel or handkerchief3 if splashed with mire1 it should be dried first1 and then rubbed clean with the hand and a cloth4 ,caps or bonnets should be put on cap poles when they are laid by1 but as these take a great deal of room1 it is a good plan to have hooks or branches fixed in the wardrobe for the purpose4 ,after being out in the damp1 wadding or tissue paper should be put in the bows of a bonnet1 until they are quite dry1 and then removed1 lest from its weight it should pull the ribbon out of shape4 ,veils should be stretched out on a bed to dry after having been worn in the damp3 if this be not done1 they will dry tumbled and creased4 ,shawls should never be put away whilst they are at all damp1 nor left folded as worn1 but wrapped up properly4 ,for those persons who have not ample space for the number of drawers1 c41 requisite to contain their clothes1 it is a good plan to have a long narrow ottoman1 settee1 or sofa1 without backs or ends1 which is made hollow1 and to open3 it might be the proper length to stand at the foot of a bed1 in a window1 c41 c4 ,these are useful to contain bonnets1 furs1 or for putting away winter or summer clothing4 ,plate #ba1 ,fig4 #b1 #d4 ,a dressing stool might also be contrived hollow1 which would hold soiled linen1 c4 ,plate #ba1 ,fig4 #b4 ,an exact inventory of the linen should be kept in the wardrobe or drawers4 ,plate #ba1 ,fig4 #a1 represents a very convenient wardrobe for ladies' dresses1 heavy linen1 bonnets1 caps1 furs1 sleeves1 c41 and is contrived as follows4 ,the centre is divided into two compartments1 the upper is enclosed with doors1 and contains sliding shelves or trays for dresses1 collars1 c41 the rest1 consisting of drawers1 contains the heavy linen4 ,the left hand wing has one door from top to bottom1 in which a mirror is fixed4 ,this closet is intended for dresses to be hung in1 and the drawers below to put away furs1 c4 ,the closet on the other side holds bonnets in the upper part1 and shoes in the lower1 each part having a door to itself4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,packing4 ,arrange so that your heavy linen1 books1 c41 shall go in strong trunks1 whilst the lighter articles may be put in boxes4 ,every leather trunk or portmanteau1 should have the name and residence of the owner engraved on a brass plate1 in the middle1 at the top3 these trunks should have leather or sacking cases 7for the latter1 see ,plate #bd71 to fit them3 the cases are made to have an opening just above the plate1 so that if going home the person needs no other direction1 but in case he is travelling elsewhere1 holes are made in the cover all round the edge of the aperture1 to which a card may be fixed1 with the address4 ,the keys should each be labelled with the name of the trunk1 or box1 as ,imperial ,portmanteau1 ,no4 #a41 c4 ,no trunk should be filled so as to strain the hinges4 ,every trunk or portmanteau should have straps fixed in the inside half way up1 in order to strap down when the linen is packed over the three flat sticks joined together with webbing1 which it is usual to lay at the top of trunks4 ,these sticks are of great use in keeping the linen flat and in its place4 ,tapes should be nailed across the top of the trunk in the inside1 for inventories1 c41 to be slipped into4 ,carpet bags should be purchased with large gores at the sides1 as when thus made1 they contain many more articles1 and more conveniently than when they are only two plain pieces of carpet4 ,they should also have a brass plate4 ,when gentlemen travel much between two places1 it is well to have the brass plate moveable1 and engraved with one address on each side1 so that nothing is necessary but to turn it1 thereby preventing the necessity of constantly renewing the written directions3 this plate is fastened at one end by a pivot1 which is secured between the two locks 7every bag should have two locks71 at the mouth of the bag1 and at the other end of the plate is a brass loop1 which is fastened to the lock at either side4 ,in packing for a large family it is a good plan to keep the linen separate by putting a towel between the layers of linen1 letting each layer consist only of the clothes of one person1 so that on unpacking1 the towel containing the linen of each individual is simply lifted out1 without the trouble of looking at the marks4 ,when the party sleep several nights on the road1 it is advisable to have a large carpet bag containing the night-dress of each individual packed up in night-gown bags1 dressing tidies 7see plate #bd71 marked with the initials of the person2 by this means much trouble is saved4 ,it is a good plan to sew a camphor bag to the night-gown to prevent the attack of fleas and bugs4 ,in packing1 observe the following general rules3-- ,first1 divide the light things from the heavy ones2 lay drawings1 portfolios1 books1 desks1 boxes1 shoes1 and all hard flat things at the bottom of your trunk1 taking great care to fit them together1 so as to be perfectly even at the top1 putting paper1 or any small soft things in the crevices2 then put in a packing cloth1 and on this lay flannels1 linen1 c41 c43 these things should be opened to their full extent1 and laid quite flat2 in the corners1 stockings1 rolls of ribbon1 c41 may be put2 silk or any thick dresses1 folded as described above1 may be laid at the top1 and the whole carefully covered with the packing sheet tightly pinned down1 and strong brown paper to prevent the possibility of rain getting in4 ,bonnets1 caps1 muslin1 or gauze dresses1 and collars1 should be put in a box by themselves3 tapes may be nailed across the box and the bonnets or caps pinned to them to keep them steady4 ,in packing a carpet bag1 it is well to roll every thing possible in small compact parcels1 and to put them in1 very close together1 especially at the corners and ends1 keeping the bag as flat as it can be1 and stretched out to its full extent1 width-wise at the same time4 ,,care ,,of ,,the ,,gentleman',s ,,wardrobe4 ,above all things in a gentleman's wardrobe1 it is necessary that the linen should be kept perfectly separate from the cloth clothes1 because the dark colour of coats1 c4 comes off slightly1 and would soil the linen4 ,the following is the best method of folding a coat for travelling1 or for putting away in a wardrobe1 where there is not much room3-- ,lay the coat at its full length upon a table1 with the collar towards the left hand2 pull out the collar1 so as to make it lie quite straight2 turn up the coat towards the collar1 letting the crease be just at the elbow2 let the lapel or breast on one side1 be turned smoothly back on the arm and sleeves4 ,turn the skirt over the lapel1 so that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar1 and the crease or folding will be just where the skirts part at the bottom of the waist2 when you have done one side1 do the same with the other4 ,turn the collar towards the right hand1 fold one skirt over the other1 observing to let the fold be in the middle of the collar4 ,it is advisable to have about a yard and a half of brown ,holland in which to wrap the coat1 trowsers1 and waistcoat2 this will keep them clean and free from dust4 ,if a coat is new1 sponge it the way the nap lies2 a silk handkerchief is a good thing to wipe cloth with1 when spotted with drops of wet4 ,when a hat gets wet1 it should be gently brushed till dry1 so as not to crack the felt4 ,boot-stands should always be made so that the legs of the boots hang downwards4 ,when boots are packed up1 they should always be put into cases 7see ,plate #bd71 which cases should be marked in pairs4 ,an exact inventory should be kept1 and pasted on one of the doors of the wardrobe4 ,,mourning4 ,it shows the best taste to make mourning as plain and as little fanciful as possible4 ,the deepest mourning is bombazine trimmed with crape2 and entirely crape1 or silk and crape bonnet4 ,the next is black silk trimmed with crape3 silk and crape bonnet4 ,there is a peculiar kind of very rich silk worn only by widows1 and called 8,widow's silk40 ,a third or slighter mourning1 is a plain silk dress1 with either black or white silk1 or even a straw bonnet4 ,half-mourning is grey or lavender silk in a morning1 and the same or white with black ornaments in an evening3 bonnet either white or lavender silk1 or straw4 ,bombazine and black silk dresses have broad hems at the bottom1 or are turned up with crape from five to eight nails deep2 this is cut the cross-way1 and is put on with a crape piping at the top4 ,the crape should be put on double1 or if economy is an object1 should be lined with black book-muslin1 which makes it wear much better1 than it would do if put on single4 ,the cape or collar of the dress should be either of silk covered with crape1 or of plain silk1 edged with hemmed or gaufiered crape1 and the cuffs to suit4 ,in very deep mourning1 the collar and cuffs are made of white muslin1 covered with crape4 ,frills and caps1 either for the bonnet or to wear in the morning1 should have the borders of white crape lisse1 tulle1 or net1 with broad hems4 ,the peculiar kind of ribbon worn in mourning is called love ribbon1 and may be had either white or black2 it is very plain gauze ribbon1 without any pattern on it but stripes4 ,young persons1 or those who are in mourning for young persons1 frequently wear a good deal of white1 as for instance1 white ribbons1 handkerchiefs1 and white gloves sewed with black3 very young children1 only wear white frocks and black ribbons4 ,for caps1 collars1 veils1 see under their respective heads4 ,it is the wisest economy in the end to buy the best or jet black crape1 it is more highly curled or craped than the blue-black1 which makes it more expensive1 but it wears well to the last1 whereas the other1 even when new1 does not look handsome4 ,the following observations may be found useful in some cases1 though they should be received with allowance1 according to the circumstances in which the individuals are placed4 ,mourning is worn for a husband or wife1 from one to two years4 ,for a parent1 six months or a year4 ,for children1 if above ten years old1 from six months to a year2 below that age1 from three to six months2 for an infant1 six weeks and upwards4 ,for brothers and sisters1 six to eight months4 ,for uncles and aunts1 three to six months4 ,for cousins1 or uncles and aunts1 related by marriage1 from six weeks to three months4 ,for more distant relations or friends1 from three weeks upwards4 ,it is usual for persons of large fortune to put their servants in mourning on the following occasions3-- ,at the death of the heads of the family1 their parents or children1 the deepest mourning is given1 as follows3-- ,for women servants1 one stuff or bombazine gown for best1 and two black print or working gowns1 a bonnet made of silk and trimmed with crape1 muslin for collars and caps1 a black silk handkerchief1 black stockings and gloves4 ,for men servants1 a complete suit of dress and common livery1 with hat-bands and shoulder-knots1 gloves and stockings4 ,for the brothers and sisters of the master and mistress of the family1 the mourning is slighter1 consisting of one best and one common gown1 and no crape on the bonnet3 collar1 caps1 handkerchief1 stockings and gloves1 as above4 ,in less affluent families1 of course1 a difference is made1 as it is a great expense to put a whole establishment into mourning1 and frequently only one suit is given4 ,for infants or very young children1 the nurse or immediate attendant alone receives mourning4 ,hat-bands1 scarfs1 and gloves1 are given to those who attend a funeral1 including servants2 and also1 in some counties1 are sent1 as well as cake and gloves1 to the intimate acquaintance and friends4 ,,hat-,,bands4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,are worn of black or white silk by all those who attend a funeral2 the latter only1 if the deceased is a young girl4 ,they are made of the whole width of the silk1 and two yards and a quarter long2 they are laid in plaits1 and then doubled in half the length1 and tied together with ribbon1 so as to fit the hat1 leaving long ends3 these silk are replaced by crape during the rest of the mourning4 ,crape hat-bands are generally put on the best1 at the mercer's shop3 they are the whole width of the crape1 which goes round the hat1 and are sometimes put on plainly1 and sometimes folded in several folds4 ,when made up1 a hat-band is from one nail and a half to three nails deep1 according to the relationship of the person to the deceased4 ,scarfs are made the whole width of the silk1 and three yards long1 tied under the arm with a piece of narrow love ribbon4 ,a scarf is worn over the right shoulder1 so that the bow comes below the left arm4 ,plate #bj1 ,fig4 #cg4 ,military men merely wear a piece of crape1 two or three nails deep1 folded round the left arm1 below the elbow4 ,,hoods4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,the hood which is worn by female mourners at a funeral1 is composed of black or white silk1 book-muslin1 or cambric2 it is the whole width of the silk1 and is three yards long2 it is made as follows3-- ,double the silk in half1 making three folds in the front or part near the face1 all the way down2 the back is plaited or gathered up1 and the two sides sewed together for half a yard from the top1 so as to form a kind of cap with long lappets2 a bow is put on at the gathered part1 another in the middle in front1 and a third on one side near the ear4 ,these hoods are made in pairs1 because those who wear them walk two and two2 that is1 the bow above the ear is put on the right side of one1 and the left side of the other4 ,a ,,shroud1 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ci1 ,is composed of a peculiar kind of flannel1 woven on purpose1 and called shrouding flannel2 it is made of a breadth and a half1 full length1 so as to cover the feet2 one seam is sewed up1 leaving the other open behind1 like a pinafore2 slits are cut for arm-holes1 and plain long sleeves1 without gussets set in2 the front is gathered at the waist1 and drawn up into a narrow piece2 this is twice repeated1 at intervals of three nails down the skirt1 upon each of these gatherings1 round the neck and at the wrists1 a kind of border of the same flannel1 punched at the edge in a pattern1 is plaited1 and an edging of the same is made at the bottom4 ,for men1 the shroud is made exactly the same as the above for women1 excepting that there is no gathering in the front4 ,,cap4 ,if the usual cap is not put on1 the following is made for a man3--it is of flannel1 cut exactly like an infant's foundling cap 7see ,fig4 #dj74 ,a quilling of the punched flannel is put round the face1 and a band of it laid on behind1 and across the top of the head1 strings of the same1 are also sewed on4 ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,woman4 ,this is of flannel1 cut in the shape of ,fig4 #da3 the round part is plaited up to form the front1 and a quilling of the bordering put on1 a band of the same laid on at the back1 and strings 7see ,fig4 #db74 ,,day ,,caps4 ,,plate #ae4 ,caps are made of worked muslin1 lace1 tulle1 or blonde1 and are usually formed upon chip or wire ribbon1 either silk or cotton1 which gives a firmness1 and causes the cap to set better to the head4 ,a few of the simplest shapes are given in the ,plate1 and a separate description of each is annexed2 in the mean while1 a few words on the general manner of making up caps1 equally applicable to all1 may be found useful by the inexperienced4 ,after collecting your materials1 and spreading a clean cloth upon the table1 begin to make your cap1 by sewing wire ribbon on such parts as require it1 generally all round the head-piece2 the crown is then put in2 if a round one1 it may be either gathered or plaited--the latter looks the best2 the fulness is usually put quite in the front1 letting the part at the side of the face be plain3 horse-shoe crowns are sometimes fulled a little at the top4 ,the joinings of caps are covered or concealed by a narrow piping or rouleau of satin4 ,when you buy stiff satin ribbon1 before trimming your cap1 pull it obliquely across all the length1 first one way and then the other1 to take out the dressing4 ,bonnet or other caps1 made of a washing material1 should have white lambs' wool run in the string cases1 when they are sent to the laundress1 it does not take the starch so much as the net itself1 and thus the ribbons are easily run in again1 on drawing the lambs' wool out4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #ae ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #af ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #bi ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #cj ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,fig #ca ,fig #cb ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #aa ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #cc ,fig #cd ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #be ,fig #bf ,fig #ce ,fig #cf ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #bg ,fig #bh ,fig #cg ,fig #ch ,fig #ci ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,young ,,lady4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b4 ,this is a pretty simple cap for a young lady or invalid1 as it is not liable to be crushed by lying on a sofa4 ,take a piece of paper1 four nails and a quarter long1 and five nails and a quarter wide1 curve out nearly half a nail from the top1 ,a1 to within half a nail of the bottom1 ,e1 to form the part that is to set round the face2 from the corner1 ,j to ,f1 is two nails and a half1 cut in a straight line from ,e to ,f1 and from ,f to ,h1 in a slanting direction1 the point ,h being one nail and a half from the bottom1 and one nail and a quarter from the side2 cut into the cap from ,h to ,c1 also sloping a quarter of a nail1 and then round it gradually up to ,b4 ,when you cut out your cap1 be careful that the net is doubled at ,d4 ,in making up this cap1 join it neatly from ,f to ,h1 and then gather the crown1 ,b ,c1 into the small piece1 ,h ,c4 ,hem it from ,e to ,f1 and run a coloured ribbon into the string-case3 hem or bind it in the front1 and make one broad runner1 to contain a ribbon1 which sets it off4 ,a small bow may be put at ,h3 and any simple trimming of loops or bows between the borders4 ,a ,,morning ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #c1 #d1 #e4 ,this is easily made1 takes very little material1 and has a pretty effect4 ,the head-piece is cut all in one4 ,for the pattern1 take a piece of paper four nails long by three nails and a half broad4 ,the front1 ,a ,b1 is four nails2 from ,b to ,c two nails and a half4 ,curve from ,c to ,e1 ,e being two nails from the top4 ,cut in a straight line from ,e to ,f1 at a quarter of a nail from the bottom1 and curve from ,f to ,a4 ,the net must be doubled at ,d4 ,the small circular crown is one nail and a half across4 ,this cap is made up as follows3--,wire the head-piece all round1 and put a wire also from ,b to ,c1 up the front1 and from ,e to ,f1 up the back1 to keep it in shape4 ,the round crown is put in quite plainly1 the part into which it fits having been previously wired4 ,the border may then be sewed on1 and a double quilling of blonde or tulle put round the crown at the top4 ,lay a piece of ribbon in the middle of the quilling1 and cover the wires up the back and front2 bind it with the same behind1 and put a ribbon1 which forms the strings1 across the border in front4 ,a bow at the side1 and two behind1 at the top and bottom1 will be found sufficient trimming4 ,a ,,simple ,,undress1 ,,or ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #f1 #g1 #h4 ,this cap is in two parts1 a head-piece and a horse-shoe4 ,to cut the pattern of the former1 ,fig4 #f1 let your paper be four nails broad by four nails and three-quarters long4 ,a to ,b is the front of the cap4 ,curve it slightly about a quarter of a nail to ,b1 which is a quarter of a nail from the bottom2 then curve to ,e one nail from the side1 and from ,c to ,e is a gradual slope1 ,d being the doubled part4 ,for the horse-shoe1 let your paper be three nails broad by four nails long4 ,f and ,k are each half a nail from the side4 ,slope from ,f to ,i1 which is two nails and a half from the bottom1 and then round to ,h1 which is in the centre4 ,in making up1 hem or bind the front1 and put one or more runners1 according to fancy4 ,the size here given is only measured for one4 ,whip from ,e to ,c1 and sew it to the horse-shoe1 keeping the fulness at the top of the cap4 ,hem or bind it behind1 and put on the border4 ,,dress ,,morning ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #i1 #aj1 #aa4 ,this cap is in two parts4 ,for half the front-piece1 ,fig4 #i1 cut a piece of paper five nails and a quarter long and two nails wide4 ,d is the doubled part of the net1 cut in a straight line from ,a to ,b1 which is half a nail from the side4 ,slope from ,b to ,c1 which is one nail and a half from the bottom4 ,for half the crown1 cut a piece four nails and three-quarters long and two nails and a half wide4 ,slope off from the top1 ,a to ,b1 cutting off half a nail4 ,d is the doubled1 or middle part of the crown4 ,in making up1 the head-piece is wired all round1 and the crown then set in quite plainly for two nails above the ear1 and the rest plaited in small neat plaits quite in the front3 then take two pieces of wire1 rather shorter than the front of the cap1 and quill upon them tulle1 blonde1 or lace1 similar to that of which the border is made4 ,this quilling should be narrower than the border1 and only moderately full4 ,a ribbon must be laid upon the edge to conceal the stitches and the wire4 ,when these bands are put upon the cap1 one of them is laid on close to the crown1 and the other between it and the front4 ,the cap is plaited a little behind to make it fit1 and a small bow is put on in the middle of the back4 ,a ribbon1 forming also the strings1 is passed over the front1 and a small bow put on one side1 close to the border4 ,in making up this cap more simply1 or as a bonnet cap1 the two trimmed bands may be omitted1 and a satin or gauze ribbon merely put across the crown and in front1 with two or three loops between the borders4 ,,plain ,,cap ,,for ,,an ,,elderly ,,lady4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac4 ,cut your pattern four nails wide by seven nails long4 ,slope off at the top from ,a to ,b1 ,d being the back or doubled part of the cap1 and hollow it a little at the bottom4 ,in making up1 run two string cases1 to admit ribbon in the front1 hem it behind and pass a ribbon through1 sew on the border1 put a small bow at one side1 close to the front1 and with strings it is complete4 ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,young ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,society ,,of ,,friends4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ad1 #ae4 ,this cap is in two pieces4 ,for the pattern of the head-piece1 let your paper be five nails and a half long1 and three nails and a quarter wide4 ,a ,b is the front of the cap4 ,from ,b to ,d is one nail and three-quarters1 and is the top or doubled part of it4 ,curve from ,d to ,e1 the point1 ,e1 being three nails and a half from the top4 ,f is three-quarters of a nail from the side and half a nail from the bottom4 ,cut in a straight line from ,e to ,f1 and curve from ,f to ,a4 ,for the crown1 cut a circle of six nails across4 ,in making up1 join the head-piece behind1 and hem it all round with a narrow hem1 so as only to admit a bobbin1 which draws it to the proper size4 ,the front is quite plain for one nail and a half above the ear1 on each side1 and then drawn equally in the middle4 ,the crown is gathered regularly all round1 and set in4 ,the single border1 about one nail broad1 is of the same material as the cap4 ,a narrow hem is made at the edge1 and it is set on rather scantily4 ,white ribbon strings are sewed on at the ears4 ,,cap ,,for ,,an ,,elderly ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,society ,,of ,,friends4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #af1 #ag1 #ah4 ,this cap is also in two pieces4 ,the paper pattern should be six nails and a quarter long and two nails wide4 ,slope from ,a to ,b1 ,b being three-quarters of a nail from the corner4 ,slope again from ,b to ,c1 cutting off half a nail4 ,for the crown1 ,d1 which is the doubled part1 is five nails and a half long4 ,e1 or the bottom of the cap1 is three nails wide4 ,round off the corner at the top1 ,f4 ,the front border of this cap is in one with the head-piece4 ,the first thing to be done in making it up1 is to join a piece of the same material1 six nails long1 and double the width of the border1 say one nail and a half1 to the corner or ear of the cap4 ,this is neatly hemmed on both sides1 together with the front edge of the head-piece1 which is to form the border4 ,a frill the same breadth is sewed to each end of the head-piece1 and is joined to the long chin-pieces at one end1 and at the other end to the lower part of the crown1 which is to be the border behind4 ,a narrow string-case is made in front1 one nail and a half from the edge1 and a bobbin run in along the front to the ends of the chin-piece4 ,a similar string-case is also made at the lower part of the crown1 and two bobbins run in1 fastened at one end1 and brought out at the opposite one1 so that when drawn up they make the cap set to the head4 ,the crown is set in equally full along the head-piece1 the straight part being behind4 ,a ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,this cap is in one piece4 ,let your paper be four nails wide by three nails and a half long4 ,the front1 ,a ,b1 is a little hollowed1 say a quarter of a nail4 ,d is the doubled part4 ,e is two nails and a half from the top1 and a quarter of a nail from the side4 ,slope from ,f to ,e1 and from ,e to ,c1 which is one nail and a half from the side1 and a quarter of a nail from the bottom4 ,curve a little to ,b4 ,in making up1 hem it in the front1 and make three or four runners to admit a coloured ribbon1 the number and breadth of these depending on fancy4 ,they must be allowed for in cutting out1 as the pattern here given is not measured for any at all4 ,join it from ,e to ,c1 either plainly or with a piece of insertion-lace1 and at the back1 ,c ,b1 make another string-case4 ,the upper part1 from ,f to ,e1 is gathered and drawn together1 and a bow put on to conceal the gathering4 ,a ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ba1 #bb4 ,the pattern of this cap is a square of three nails and a half4 ,d is the doubled part at the back4 ,it is slightly hollowed1 as in the ,plate4 ,in making up1 hem the front1 ,a ,f1 and the back1 ,f ,e2 join it up neatly from ,a to ,b1 either with a piece of insertion-lace1 with a satin rouleau1 or with a ribbon1 and gather the rest1 ,b ,c1 up to the point1 ,b1 where a bow of ribbon finishes it4 ,sometimes1 as in the ,plate1 the border is not carried on in the front1 but1 leaving about one nail from the top of the cap1 is earned back again to the ear1 forming a second frilling4 ,,helmet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #bc1 #bd4 ,this is a remarkably pretty little morning or bonnet cap1 and is generally made of tulle or lisse1 as the shape is not so suitable to a washing material4 ,it is in three parts1 the two sides and a piece let in between them4 ,to cut the pattern of the sides1 ,fig4 #bc1 let your paper be four nails long by two nails and three-quarters broad4 ,a ,b is the front1 which is a little sloped4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,b to ,c #b ,from ,c to the bottom ,from ,e to the bottom #b ,from ,f to the top #a ,from ,g to the corner ------------------------------ ,curve from ,b to ,c4 ,slope upwards from ,c to ,e1 and round from ,f to ,g4 ,the piece let in between these two sides is about three-quarters of a yard long1 two nails broad in the front1 and one nail and a quarter behind1 gradually sloped4 ,in making up1 the long narrow strip is gathered on both sides and sewed to the other pieces1 ,fig4 #bc1 at ,a1 ,g1 ,f1 ,e1 ,c1 equally full all the way4 ,the stitches are concealed by a small satin rouleau laid on4 ,the front and back are then wired and bound with ribbon4 ,the border and any simple trimming complete it4 ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #be1 #bf4 ,to cut the pattern of half this neat and simple bonnet cap1 let your paper be six nails long and four nails broad4 ,a ,b is the front4 ,curve from ,b1 past ,c to ,e1 ,c being one nail and three-quarters from the bottom and half a nail from the side1 and ,e being two nails and a half from the top4 ,d is the part where the net is to be doubled4 ,in making up1 plait it behind in the centre1 or rather large folds1 seven on each side of the middle1 and wrapping the folds over each other1 so as to keep them all quite behind4 ,ribbon is laid on in two or three rows in front1 either simply upon the cap1 or covered with net4 ,bind it behind1 and put on a border and some light trimming4 ,,handkerchief ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh4 ,this cap is formed of a half-handkerchief1 cut from a square of six nails and a half4 ,d is the doubled part4 ,the front is from ,a to ,b4 ,shape it a little1 beginning about three nails from the top1 to make it set better to the face4 ,the extreme point1 ,c1 is rounded off4 ,in making up1 hem it all round1 and run in a tape or ribbon behind4 ,,bonnet ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #bi1 #cj4 ,the pattern of half this cap is cut from a paper five nails long by four nails broad4 ,a ,b is the front1 ,d the doubled part of the net4 ,slope from ,b to ,c1 cutting off one nail and a half4 ,allow for runners1 according to your taste4 ,in making up1 hem the front and back1 run the string-case1 join it up the back from ,c to ,f1 and hem the rest from ,f to the top4 ,run a ribbon in this hem1 which draws it up into a crown1 and ties with a bow behind at ,f4 ,this cap looks very like ,fig4 #bj1 but the chief advantage of it is1 that it can be very easily ironed1 as1 when the ribbon is drawn out of the crown1 it is a flat piece4 ,,bonnet ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,child4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ca1 #cb4 ,this is an oblong1 six nails long by four nails wide4 ,hem it all round4 ,a ,e is the front4 ,a ribbon is run through the hems1 both in front and at the back1 ,b ,c1 which draws up the cap as much as is necessary to make it fit4 ,a ,,capette4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,a capette is a sort of half-cap worn by young ladies1 as a preservation from cold2 it is also useful as a pretty kind of evening head dress2 they are not expensive and are easily made4 ,take a piece of silk or satin ribbon1 the proper length for the front of a cap1 and about two-thirds of a nail broad1 along each edge hem in a wire ribbon so as to reduce the width to half a nail1 putting three ribs or stays of wire across1 to keep the ribbon its full breadth2 one should be in the middle1 and one at each end3 then take another piece of wire ribbon1 which is to go at the back of the head1 and which is covered with ribbon similar to the front2 the length of this must be regulated by the size of the wearer's head1 and it should be very accurately fitted1 as all the comfort1 and much of the neat appearance of the capette depends upon it setting well and closely to the shape of the head2 this back-piece should be sewed very firmly to the front1 a little above the ears4 ,a border of net1 tulle1 or blonde is then plaited on to the front1 and a gauze or satin ribbon folded1 and laid upon the edge of it1 so as to cover the stitches1 and the foundation2 this ribbon is long enough to form strings4 ,on the back-strap is also laid a similar piece of ribbon1 and sometimes a small bow is put in the centre of it4 ,the front is trimmed according to fancy1 the most simple mode generally looking the best4 ,some persons wear capettes under their bonnets1 and then they are usually made without wire1 and merely bound with ribbon4 ,,lappets4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,lappets are merely a double border of net1 tulle1 or blonde1 three nails on each side1 leaving a space in the middle2 sometimes they are plaited all round1 or made with a plain piece of blonde over the forehead4 ,the edge is bound with ribbon1 the ends of which form the strings4 ,,widow',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ce1 #cf1 #cg4 ,a widow's cap is a very difficult thing to make well1 and looks particularly slovenly when ill put together2 it is1 therefore1 often the best economy to buy one ready-made1 as there are persons who do little or nothing else2 however1 as there may be some cases in which this plan is not advisable1 a pattern is given of a full sized one1 and a few words on the manner of making it up4 ,these caps should be of book-muslin 7not of the thinnest kind7 or of white crape4 ,in the ,plate1 half of the crown1 ,fig4 #ce1 and half of the head-piece1 ,fig4 #cf1 are represented4 ,to cut out the former1 let your paper be seven nails and a half long1 and three nails and a half wide2 from the side to ,a is two nails and three-quarters1 from the bottom to ,b is three nails and three-quarters1 and from the corner to ,c1 two nails and a half4 ,the doubled part of the muslin is to be laid upon ,d4 ,for the head-piece1 ,fig4 #cf1 your paper must be three nails and three-quarters long1 by one nail and a quarter broad4 ,from ,a to the corner is three-quarters of a nail1 slope gradually to ,b4 ,d is the doubled part4 ,in making up1 after setting the crown into the head-piece1 with the fulness chiefly in the front1 and hemming it behind and all round the face1 sew on the borders3 these are made of the same muslin1 about a quarter of a nail deep1 they are double in front1 and put on very full3 after the muslin is hemmed1 a short round stick is run through1 which gives a crimped appearance1 and makes the hem hollow2 to keep the border in its place1 a fine tape is passed through each hem1 which is tied up to the proper size2 a sort of binder is then laid upon the head-piece and meets behind2 it is thus made3--take a piece of muslin1 one nail and a half broad and two yards long1 make a hem at each edge and a tuck in the middle1 the same width as the hem of the borders1 pass the stick through all these hems1 and run in a fine tape or bobbin1 to draw it up to the proper size4 ,a piece is then prepared to fasten under the chin which is three-quarters of a yard long1 and broad enough to admit of a hem1 one quarter of a nail deep at each edge1 no plain muslin being left between2 the stick is passed through these hems1 and a tape run in4 ,when worn1 the ends are pinned on each side at the ears of the cap4 ,,velvet ,,or ,,wadded ,,silk ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,this cap is very useful to wear under a bonnet1 especially in travelling4 ,it is four nails long in the front1 when folded in two1 and three nails and a half wide1 it is sloped behind one nail1 and rounded about half a nail at the top4 ,in making up1 a lining is put into it1 and a piece of wadding laid between it and the cap3 they are neatly run together down the front and behind3 a string-case is made at the back1 for about half a nail on each side of the middle1 and a ribbon run in to draw it up to the proper size4 ,it is neatly joined for one nail and a half1 and the rest is gathered up1 the stitches being concealed by a large button1 covered with the same silk4 ,,silk ,,cap4 ,,plate #ae4 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,these are often worn by elderly or invalid ladies1 under their caps and bonnets4 ,fig4 #ci is an approved shape1 to wear under a cap2 it is made of silk that approaches the nearest in colour to the shade of the hair4 ,it is in two pieces1 the one a strip ten nails long1 three nails deep1 and sloped off at the ends to two nails2 and the other a round cushion1 one nail and a half across1 and half a nail high3 the strip is joined up at the ends1 which part fits to the front of the head1 hemmed all round1 and strings run in to draw it up to the proper size4 ,the cushion is made and filled with light sheep's wool1 and the strip or head-piece gathered regularly to it4 ,the use of it is to make the crown of the cap stand up4 ,,pinafores1 ,,saccarines1 c4 ,,plate #af4 ,pinafores and saccarines are worn chiefly by children of both sexes1 and of every age1 also by house-maids1 while making beds1 or persons engaged in particularly dusty or dirty employments4 ,for children's pinafores during their earliest years1 look in ,plate #c1 where two or three patterns are entered1 among other articles of baby linen1 and where scales are affixed for children of various ages4 ,the following are the other shapes most in use4 ,,child',s ,,surtout ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,this is a neat and simple pinafore for a young child1 and is made of diaper1 ,holland or print4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #af ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #e ,fig #g ,fig #d ,fig #f ,fig #aj ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #ad ,fig #aa ,fig #ac ,fig #ab ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ---------------- ,child of ,child of #a yr4 #c yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of cloth #ab #ad ,length of cloth #f #h ,depth of shoulder #a #a ,slope of shoulder ,length of arm-hole #b #b ,depth of lappet or shoulder #a #a ,length of lappet or shoulder #h #aj ,depth of neck-band when open #a ,length of neck-band when open #e #f ,depth of band round the waist #a #a ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,the pinafore is folded in half1 and again in two1 to find the situation of the arm-holes at the quarters3 after sloping the shoulders1 hollow out the neck about a quarter of a nail2 the shoulders must then be sewed up1 and the pinafore set into the neck-band1 which is first doubled exactly in half2 this neck-band buttons behind4 ,the sleeve lappets are gathered near the edge1 and neatly set on to the arm-hole before it is hemmed1 so that when the hem is turned down1 no stitches are seen on the right side2 the lappet is then fulled at the edge a second time1 which being also firmly sewed down1 makes it lie flat upon the hem4 ,the other edge of the lappet is hemmed1 and silk washing braid put on1 to hide the stitches4 ,the lappet should be set on to within half a nail of the bottom of the slit of the arm-hole on each side2 little gussets may be put in at the bottom of the slit1 to make it stronger4 ,a band is sewed on in front1 of the proper length to button behind1 its proper situation is in the centre in front1 and a little below the level of the bottom of the arm-hole4 ,boys often wear a band of patent leather instead1 with a buckle4 ,this pinafore is quite open behind1 being only fastened by the neck-button and the band4 ,a ,,child',s ,,smock-,,frock1 ,,or ,,close ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #b1 #c4 ,if for gentlemen's children1 they are made of ,holland1 either black or brown1 or diaper1 but for the lower classes1 of blue check1 dark blue linen1 brown and black linen1 or coloured prints4 ,these close pinafores are very suitable for children playing in a garden1 or for going to school in1 and preserve clean frocks1 or hide soiled ones effectually4 ,it would be well if at most large charity schools1 children attended with these kind of pinafores1 which at once give them a neat respectable appearance4 ,the number of breadths is not mentioned in the scale1 as the widths of the material differ so much2 but it is advisable1 if possible1 to obtain it of such a width as will agree with the width of the pinafore1 to admit of their being but one1 one and a half1 or exactly two breadths in it4 ,the sleeves1 collar1 bands1 and gussets1 may be made to cut to little or no waste1 by fitting them well1 one with another1 especially if the band be made in two pieces1 instead of one length4 ,the pinafore is easily made up2 after putting in the neck gussets1 the collar is set on1 the skirt being regularly fulled into it4 ,the sleeves1 c41 are all put on as in a shirt1 excepting that the wristbands are sewed up so as to form cuffs4 ,metal or bone buttons are those in general use to fasten them4 ,the two nails by one and a half that are over 7see ,k71 serve for covering buttons1 or make a small gusset for the slit behind1 and also for the bottom of the sleeves1 if the wristband is made open4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,first ,second ,third size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,width of skirt when sewed up #i #aj #ab ,length of skirt #i #aa #ac ,length of shoulder #a #a #a ,slope of shoulder to ,length of arm-hole #b #c #c ,size of neck-gusset #a #a #a ,size of sleeve-gusset #b #b #b ,length of collar #f #f #g ,depth of collar before doubled #a #b #b ,depth of slit behind #c #c #d ,length of sleeve down the selvage #d #e #f ,width of sleeve #d #e #f ,depth of wristband #a #a #a ,length of wristband down selvage #c #c #c ,depth of band #a #a #a ,length of band down selvage #aa #ab #ac ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,,large ,,sized ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,to prevent waste1 it would be advisable to cut out two at once1 as the collars1 c41 will cut for both pinafores in one width4 ,cut two breadths for each pinafore1 and from one breadth of each1 cut the sleeves4 ,for the collars1 c41 cut off a piece of ,holland1 seven nails long1 and divide it according to the ,figure in the ,plate1 first taking off the two collars1 ,c ,c1 the whole length selvage-wise1 and each two nails wide2 next1 the four wristbands1 ,w ,w1 of which two cut in the length1 of three and a half nails long1 and three nails wide2 afterwards the four gussets1 ,g ,g1 two and a half nails square1 leaving a strip1 two nails long1 and five nails wide1 out of which cut the two neck-gussets1 each two nails square1 to be afterwards cut crosswise in half2 also little gussets for the slit behind1 and the sleeves1 if the wristbands are made open4 ,these pinafores are made up like those before mentioned4 ,,pinafores ,,for ,,boys1 ,,of ,,strong ,,black ,,glazed ,,calico1 ,,or ,,holland1 ,,at #as4 ,,per ,,yard4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #b1 #c1 ,represents the width of the cloth on which the pieces composing the pinafore of the smallest size are marked4 ,cut two breadths and divide one in half1 from the half cut all the et cetera according to the figure4 ,s ,s are the two sleeves1 five and a half nails square4 ,c is the collar1 two nails by six long4 ,w ,w are the two wristbands1 two nails by three long4 ,g ,g are the two sleeve-gussets1 two nails square4 ,n ,n are the two neck-gussets1 one nail square4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,boy of ,boy of ---------------- #h years4 #aj years4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ae #ae ,quantity for one #a #aj #b #j ,number of breadths in each pinafore #b bdths4 #b bdths4 ,length of breadths #ac #ae ,length of sleeve down selvage #e #g ,width of sleeve #e #f ,length of wristband down selvage #c #c ,width of wristband #b #b ,neck-gusset cut in half #a #a ,sleeve-gusset #b #c ,length of collar #f #g ,width of collar #b #b ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,,children',s ,,saccarines4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,these are exceedingly pretty1 if finished neatly with braid or silk1 and are generally made of ,holland1 either brown1 or the light grey called ,french ,holland4 ,they answer well as morning dresses1 in which children can run about1 and work in the garden1 with less danger of tearing or dirtying their under clothes1 than with frocks of lighter materials4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,child from ,child from ---------------- #b to #d yrs4 #d to #f yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity for one #a #ad #b #b ,width of material #ab #ad ,number of breadths #b bdths4 #b bdths4 ,length of skirt #i #aa ,length of shoulder #a #a ,slope of shoulder ,length of arm-hole #b #c ,length of slit behind #d #d ,length of sleeve down the selvage #f #f ,width of sleeve #f #f ,length of collar down the selvage #f #f ,width of collar #a #a ,length of shoulder-strap #a #a ,width of shoulder-strap ,sleeve-gussets #b #c ,neck-gussets ,length of wristband down the selvage #b #c ,width of wristband #a #a ,length of band down the selvage #aa #ab ,depth of band #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,in making up these saccarines1 the work must be very good and strong4 ,the hem at the bottom should be about one nail and a half deep4 ,the shoulder-straps and neck-gussets being put on1 the slit hemmed1 and everything ready for biassing the pinafore1 prepare some strong netting silk of a colour that will wash well--black1 purple1 or white are the best--and then bias the front and back in four rows below the collar4 ,small spots worked on the gathers1 between the rows of biassing1 in the same coloured silk1 have a finished and neat effect4 ,the sleeve is also biassed at about a quarter of a nail below the shoulder1 and at the wrist4 ,for a description of biassing1 see ,part ,i41 ,chapter ,i4 ,some persons put coloured worsted braid over the biassing1 and1 if chosen of a colour that washes well1 and sewed on with crewel1 it looks pretty1 and stands washing better than most kinds of netting silk4 ,little pockets of ,holland should be put in front1 being particularly useful to children for their handkerchiefs1 c4 ,the wristbands1 collar1 and band should have some little ornamental work1 either in silk or braid1 to correspond with the rest4 ,,fig4 #e ,represents the width of the ,holland on which the pieces are marked for the largest saccarine1 supposing two of them cut out together1 which is by far the most economical way4 ,after cutting out the skirts1 mark off and cut in one piece the two breadths for the two pairs of sleeves1 and1 before dividing the breadths1 cut selvage-wise the whole length a strip two nails wide1 which will be twelve long1 and form one of the bands4 ,the two sleeves exactly fit in the remainder of the width4 ,cut next another breadth of the cloth of six nails long1 and from it take1 according to the ,plate3-- ,two collars1 ,c ,c1 the whole length1 and one nail wide each4 ,four wristbands1 ,w ,w1 two in the length1 and one nail wide each4 ,four gussets1 ,g ,g1 three nails square1 two in the length4 ,two half bands1 ,b ,b1 to be sewed together to make one1 each one nail wide1 and the whole length4 7,the other band is already cut off47 ,two neck-gussets1 ,n ,n1 of two nails square1 to be afterwards cut crosswise to form the pair4 ,four shoulder-straps1 ,s ,s ,s ,s1 of half a nail wide and one nail and three-quarters long1 and one piece over1 which will form a slit-gusset4 ,,fig4 #f ,represents the smaller saccarine on cloth of the proper width4 ,in this case1 also1 it is necessary to cut two at once1 to prevent waste4 ,after cutting the two skirts and two pairs of sleeves1 of which two sleeves exactly fit in the width1 cut off a breadth six nails down the selvage1 and divide it as follows1 according to the ,plate3-- ,two collars1 ,c ,c1 one nail wide each1 and the whole depth4 ,four half bands1 ,b ,b ,b ,b1 one nail wide each1 of the whole length of two nails and a half1 leaving one nail over4 ,four sleeve-gussets1 ,g ,g ,g ,g1 of two nails square1 underneath which lie ,four shoulder-straps1 ,s ,s1 of three-quarters of a nail wide and one nail and a half long1 and two other gussets4 ,a strip of ,holland1 half a nail by three nails1 remains to bind round the slit behind1 which makes it firm and durable4 ,,housemaid',s ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,house-maids have1 or ought to have1 a calico pinafore to put on when making beds1 as1 after cleaning grates and emptying slops1 their clothes should not come in contact with clean bed-linen and counterpanes1 lest they should soil them4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity for one #c #e ,number of breadths #b bdths4 ,width of calico #a #j ,length of pinafore #a #j ,length of shoulder #b ,shoulder sloped to ,length of arm-hole #e ,length of sleeve down selvage #i ,width of sleeve #i ,size of sleeve-gusset #d ---------------------------------------- ----- ,the sleeves should be left large and loose1 so as to admit of the pinafore being easily put on and off1 over the gown4 ,it is more economical to cut out two pinafores than one1 as otherwise two gussets are wasted4 ,,school ,,girl',s ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,pinafores for the national and other schools are generally made of strong blue linen check1 with one or two pockets at the front and sides1 in which their knitting and needle-work are put4 ,these pinafores1 after buttoning up the pockets1 are carefully taken off when school hours are over1 folded1 and locked up at the school-house4 ,in front1 near the top of the pinafore1 is sewed a square patch of the linen1 on which is marked1 in red or other tape1 the number of the child to whom it belongs4 ,the child is generally called by her companions by the number of the pinafore1 instead of being addressed by her name1 which is1 in many ways1 a great saving of memory1 time1 and trouble4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,girl from,girl from,girl from ,girl from ---------------- #f to #h #h to #aj #aj to #ac #ac to #ah yrs4 yrs4 yrs4 yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #ab #ad #a #j #a #j ,length of pinafore #aj #ab #ad #a #j ,piece for shoulder #a #a #a #b ,sloped to #a ,slit for arm-hole #b #c #c #d ,hollowed in front ,length of pocket #c #c #d #d ,width of pocket #d #d #d #d ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,a ,,child',s ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,this is made of brown ,holland1 or any other neat material1 and trimmed with braid or an edging1 or simply piped1 to give a sort of finish to it4 ,take two breadths of the proper length 7say twelve nails71 and sew them together up the seams1 leaving two nails and a half from the top for the arm-holes4 ,when thus sewed1 fold the skirt in half the width1 and hollow out the arm-holes1 cutting into the cloth1 from ,a to ,b1 half a nail4 ,the neck is also hollowed to about one nail1 from ,c to ,d1 leaving one nail and a quarter for the shoulders1 which are not sewed up1 but neatly hemmed and made to button together4 ,there is no slit behind1 but the back is made exactly like the front1 either with large plaits1 as in the figure1 biassed1 or gathered4 ,a band1 sewed on in front1 buttons round the waist4 ,when the pinafore is taken off1 the shoulders are merely unbuttoned1 and it falls down1 as seen on the right hand side of the figure4 ,lappets or frills may be added with advantage round the arm-holes1 taking care to divide them at top1 to allow of the shoulders separating4 ,a ,,surgeon',s ,,dissecting ,,pinafore4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,these pinafores are worn by surgeons over the coat1 and are made high up to the neck and down to the waist1 to prevent anything soiling the dress while dissecting and performing operations4 ,the pinafores are generally of black1 but sometimes of grey ,holland4 ,they have two pockets1 in which to put the instruments1 cloths1 c4 c4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,width of material #a #j ,number of breadths #a bdth4 ,length of pinafore #a #f ,length of sleeve down the selvage #aj ,width of sleeve1 or two in the breadth #h ,length of collar down the selvage #i ,width of collar #b ,length of wristband down the selvage #d ,width of wristband #a ,length of shoulder-strap down the selvage #d ,width of the two together before being cut #b ,size of sleeve-gusset #c ,length of arm-hole #e ,size of square pocket #e ,distance from under the arm to the pocket-hole #c ,slit width-way for the pocket-hole #c ---------------------------------------- ------------------- ,the breadth and half are sewed together1 the pinafore doubled as usual1 and the slits for the arms cut2 after which the shoulder-straps are sewed between1 and not upon the parts forming the shoulder1 taking care to put the wide end of the shoulder-straps 7which are sloped as seen below71 towards the neck4 ,put in the sleeves1 and set the neck into the collar4 ,find the situation of the pocket-hole1 letting the middle of it fall in a straight line1 exactly under the arm4 ,the slit is cut width-way1 and a piece of narrow tape is sewed round it at the edge1 and hemmed down4 ,the pocket is sewed on 7but not hemmed7 at the inside with small stitches1 and1 when done1 well flattened with the finger and thumb4 ,the piece for the shoulder-straps is crossed1 making the narrow end about one-third of a nail1 as in ,fig4 #ab4 ,a strong case is sewed round the pinafore inside1 made of #b;d4 or #c;d4 tape4 ,two large oylet-holes are made at the sides1 and a very long piece of tape is first drawn all round the string-case coming out behind1 and secured in front4 ,these strings cross behind1 and are carried through the opposite string-case1 as far as the oylet-holes1 at which they are brought out4 ,the pinafore is generally put on over the head4 ,the strings draw round and tie in front4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #ag4 ,fig #a ,fig #c ,fig #e ,fig #g ,fig #b ,fig #d ,fig #f ,fig #h ,fig #i ,fig #aj ,fig #ac ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,,waggoner',s ,,smock-,,frock4 ,,plate #af4 ,,fig4 #ac1 #ad1 #ae1 #af4 ,it is made of strong linen1 similar to that used for sheeting1 and the biassing upon it is worked with the strongest glazed thread or cotton that can be procured4 ,this work must be firmly and regularly done1 as the price of these frocks depends on the quantity and quality of work in them4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,width of the material #a #j ,length of the body1 both breadths being cut in one piece #b #ad ,length of each half collar down the selvage #f ,width of each half collar #d ,length of shoulder-binding #c ,width of shoulder-binding #a ,length of sleeve down the selvage #aj ,width of sleeve #h ,length of wristband down the selvage #e ,size of gusset #a ,length of slit behind and before #a ,length of worked part in front #e ,wrist biassed up to about #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,the two breadths are cut in one piece1 and hollowed out at the neck to the depth of one nail1 making the hollowing1 ,fig4 #ac1 from ,a to ,b1 as abruptly as possible1 so that from ,b to ,c is quite straight by a thread4 ,after the body is gathered to the proper size1 so as to correspond with the two half collars1 set them on so that the divisions shall come behind and in front1 at which places the frock itself is cut down one nail and a quarter deep4 ,the shoulders and wrists1 as well as the front and back1 are biassed with strong glazed thread1 in various patterns1 and stitched as in ,fig4 #af4 ,the plain part1 between the biassing and arm-hole1 is worked in chain-stitch1 as also the collar1 in various patterns4 ,these frocks are to be met with at clothing warehouses1 and cost from #is4 to #ahs4 each1 the price depending upon the quantity and quality of work put on4 ,,shirts ,,for ,,the ,,labouring ,,classes4 ,,plate #ag4 ,shirts for labouring men are generally made of the stout linen called shirting-linen1 at from #i;d4 to #as4 per yard4 ,shirts for men of lighter occupations are sometimes of calico1 with linen collars and wristbands4 ,blue checks1 unbleached1 and striped calicoes1 or prints1 are used for that purpose4 ,linen for shirts should be chosen of exactly the proper width1 according to the size wanted2 and as it is an expensive article1 especially when cut to waste1 six ,scales are drawn upon the ,plate for six different sizes of shirts1 by which the most economical plan for cutting the shirt is seen4 ,each ,scale is drawn upon the width of cloth suitable to the sized shirt4 ,scales are also affixed for cutting out a set of six of the same sized shirts1 as1 by a little management1 and occasionally reducing or enlarging a sleeve a quarter of a nail1 or making some such immaterial difference1 the various parts of a set1 take much less cloth by being cut together4 ,if shirts are made of linen1 they should always be cut by a thread2 but if they are of calico1 they may be torn3 still1 however1 the smaller parts1 as gussets1 straps1 c41 should be cut1 in preference to tearing1 as they are apt to pull out of shape4 ,in preparing a set of shirts1 time is saved by cutting out all the pieces of the same size together1 instead of cutting first a sleeve1 then a wristband1 c4 ,it also saves cloth to cut strips all in one length1 and then sub-divide it3 for instance1 when binders and sleeves are cut in the breadth1 as one is longer than the other1 it is necessary to mark off the width of the sleeve1 and then cut down the whole length of the set of sleeves1 leaving the strip in one length1 to be sub-divided afterwards4 ,the bodies should be cut each in one piece1 and not in two separate breadths4 ,the neck-gussets are generally single1 therefore1 one gusset1 cut crosswise in half1 forms the pair4 ,before cutting the bosom1 slit1 c41 of the body1 observe that the shirt should be folded in two1 so as to let the front breadth be one nail shorter than the back breadth4 ,when thus folded1 crease it by a thread1 and1 after leaving the proper distance for the shoulders1 proceed to cut the slit for the neck1 and down for the bosom4 ,next measure the length of opening for the flaps1 and for the arm-holes1 and put in pins as marks4 ,a ,,few ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,shirts4 ,there are nineteen useful parts to a shirt1 which are cut out pretty nearly by the following rough proportions2 but as the figures of men differ materially1 no exact rule can be laid down4 #ast ,the ,,skirt or ,,body1 which is cut1 with the two breadths in one piece1 and should be long enough to reach from the shoulder to the knee of the wearer4 #bnd and #crd4 ,the ,,sleeves1 which are generally about half the length of the skirt when sewed up1 and the breadth the same4 #dth ,the ,,collar1 which is the same length as the sleeve4 #eth and #fth4 ,the ,,wristbands1 each of which is half the length of the collar4 #gth and #hth4 ,the ,,binders1 the length of a sleeve and a quarter4 #ith and #ajth4 ,the ,,shoulder-,,straps1 the same length as the wristbands4 #aath and #abth4 ,two ,,sleeve-,,gussets4 #acth and #adth4 ,two ,,neck-,,gussets4 #aeth and #afth4 ,two ,,hip1 or ,,side-,,gussets4 #agth and #ahth4 ,two ,,wrist-,,gussets4 #aith ,one ,,bosom-,,gusset4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,scale ,,of ,,shirts ,,of ,,various ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,fig4 ,fig4 ,fig4 #a1 #b4 #c1 #d4 #e1 #f4 ---------------- ------------------------------ ,child from,child from,child from #h to #aj #aa to #ad #ae to #ah yrs4 yrs4 yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity required for one #b #h #b #aa #c #a ,quantity required for six #ac #ad #ad #h #ah #j ,proper width of cloth #i #ab #ac ,whole length of skirt #a #i #a #aa #b #j ,space to leave for shoulders #b #b #b ,the space for the neck will then be #e #h #h ,slit downwards for bosom #c #c #d ,length of arm-holes #c #c #d ,slit at the bottom for flaps #c #c #d ,width of sleeve #f #g #h ,length down the selvage #d #e #f ,width of binders or linings #a #b #b ,length down the selvage #f #g #aj ,width of collar #e #c #c ,length down the selvage #f #f #g ,width of wristband #a #b #b ,length down the selvage #b #c #c ,width of shoulder-strap #a #a #a ,length down the selvage #c #c #d ,size of sleeve-gussets #b #b #c ,size of neck-gussets #a #a #b ,size of bosom-gussets ,size of flap-gussets #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,fig4 ,fig4 ,fig4 #g1 #h4 #i1 #aj4 #aa1 #ab4 ---------------- ------------------------------ ,man's ,man's ,man's small larger largest size4 size4 size4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity required for one #c #d #c #h #c #ad ,quantity required for six #ai #ab #ba #a #bc #j ,proper width of cloth #ac #ad #ae ,whole length of skirt #b #b #b #d #b #e ,space to leave for shoulders #b #b #c ,the space for the neck will then be #h #i #i ,slit downwards for bosom #d #e #e ,length of arm-holes #e #e #e ,slit at the bottom for flaps #e #e #e ,width of sleeve #g #h #h ,length down the selvage #g #h #aj ,width of binders or linings #c #c #c ,length down the selvage #aa #ab #ab ,width of collar #c #c #c ,length down the selvage #h #h #h ,width of wristband #b #b #c ,length down the selvage #d #d #d ,width of shoulder-strap #a #a #b ,length down the selvage #d #d #e ,size of sleeve-gussets #c #c #d ,size of neck-gussets #b #b #b ,size of bosom-gussets ,size of flap-gussets #a #a #a ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #b ,represents the best mode of cutting out six shirts of the same size as ,fig4 #a4 ,cut off the bodies or skirts4 ,cut off from the breadth the strip for the twelve sleeves1 being in all three yards six nails in length1 and six nails in width4 ,cut from the remainder of the breadth the twelve linings1 two in the breadth1 six nails and a half long1 and the twelve wristbands1 two in the breadth1 of two nails and a half long1 thus using up all the strip4 ,cut the other pieces as follows3-- ,two collars in the breadth1 ,c ,c1 six nails long1 three breadths4 ,nine shoulder-straps1 ,s ,s1 three nails long1 one breadth4 ,three shoulder-straps and six neck-gussets1 ,n ,n1 three nails long1 one breadth4 ,four sleeve-gussets1 ,g ,g1 two nails and a half long1 three breadths4 ,the collar is very wide1 and intended to turn over4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,the most economical plan of cutting six shirts1 the size of ,fig4 #c3-- ,two sleeves in the breadth1 five nails long1 six breadths4 ,six linings1 ,b ,b1 seven nails long1 two breadths4 ,four collars1 ,c ,c1 six nails and a half long1 one breadth4 ,two collars and twelve straps1 ,s ,s1 six nails and a half long1 one breadth4 ,six sleeve-gussets1 ,g ,g1 two nails long1 two breadths4 ,four wristbands 7leaving two nails over71 three nails long1 three breadths4 ,the remainder1 two nails wide1 and nine nails long1 to be cut up into six neck-gussets1 ,n ,n1 one nail and a half square1 leaving a piece1 half a nail wide and nine long1 to form the remainder of the gussets4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #f1 ,is the most economical plan of cutting six shirts of the same size1 as ,fig4 #e4 ,take off twelve sleeves1 eight nails wide1 and six long1 twelve lengths4 ,from the long strip cut two binders1 in width eight nails and a half1 six lengths4 ,and two wristbands in the width1 ,w ,w1 three nails and a quarter long1 six lengths4 ,the whole strip is thus exactly used up4 ,three collars1 ,c ,c1 to be three nails wide and a piece over1 seven nails long1 two lengths4 ,the piece left over of the breadth to be cut into ,twelve shoulder-straps1 ,s ,s1 four in the width1 four nails long1 three breadths4 ,also two neck-gussets1 ,n ,n1 two nails square4 ,four sleeve-gussets1 ,g1 three nails square1 and one neck-gusset1 ,n1 in the width1 three nails square1 three breadths4 ,thirteen flap and bosom-gussets1 one nail square1 one breadth4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #h1 ,represents the best plan of cutting six shirts1 similar in size to ,fig4 #g4 ,cut twelve sleeves1 ,s ,s1 seven nails and a half wide1 seven nails long1 twelve lengths4 ,in the remainder of the breadth1 two binders in the width1 of ,eleven nails long1 six lengths4 ,twelve sleeve-gussets1 ,g ,g1 three nails square1 six lengths4 ,after which1 cut as follows3-- ,four collars1 ,c ,c1 three nails wide and eight nails long1 leaving a strip one nail and a half wide for little gussets1 one length4 ,two collars and six wristbands1 ,w ,w1 eight nails long1 one length4 ,three wristbands1 and six neck-gussets1 ,n ,n1 four nails long1 two lengths4 ,twelve shoulder-straps1 ,s ,s1 four nails long1 one length4 ,a ,,plan ,,for ,,cutting ,,six ,,shirts ,,of ,,the ,,same ,,size ,,as ,,fig4 #i4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,measure off the whole length for sleeves1 eight nails square1 twelve lengths4 ,from the remainder of the breadth cut ,two linings1 ,b ,b1 in the width1 of twelve nails long1 six lengths4 ,two collars1 ,c ,c1 in the width1 of eight nails long1 three lengths4 ,the strip is thus exactly made up2-- ,cut six wristbands1 ,w ,w1 in the width1 four nails long1 two lengths4 ,four gussets1 of three nails square and two nails over1 three lengths4 ,from the piece over1 cut two shoulder-straps1 four nails long1 and a piece over4 ,six neck-gussets1 two nails square in the breadth1 one length4 ,ten shoulder-straps in the width1 four nails long1 one length4 ,fourteen gussets in the breadth1 one nail square1 one length4 ,a ,,plan ,,for ,,cutting ,,six ,,shirts ,,similar ,,in ,,size ,,to ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,plate #ag4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,measure off the twelve sleeves1 eight nails wide1 and ten long1 twelve lengths4 ,two binders in the width1 twelve nails long1 six lengths4 ,two collars in the width1 eight nails long1 three lengths4 ,two wristbands in the width1 four nails long1 six lengths4 ,the strip is thus exactly used up1 after which1 ,cut four sleeve-gussets in the width1 three lengths4 ,six shoulder-straps1 five nails long1 two lengths4 ,six neck-gussets in the width1 one length4 ,twelve flap-gussets in the width1 two lengths4 ,,explanation ,,of ,,making ,,up ,,shirts4 ,double the long piece for the skirt in two1 making the front breadth one nail shorter than the back breadth4 ,measure the proper distance from the top for the arm-holes1 and the proper distance from the bottom for flaps1 and put in pins for marks4 ,the skirt is usually simply sewed up1 but it is preferable1 especially with gentlemen's shirts1 to make a hem the whole length of the skirt1 on each side1 and then sew up between the arm-holes and flaps1 firmly1 with thick even stitches4 ,proceed next to stitch the collar and wristbands4 ,let the stitching be made about six threads from the edge1 and carried all round both the wristbands and collar2 taking care not to pass the stitches through both folds of them1 at the opening or part1 in which the fulness of the sleeve or shirt is to be gathered4 ,next prepare the straps by turning them in1 and drawing the threads2 do the same with the neck and other gussets4 ,now sew up the sleeves1 putting in the large gussets1 the little wrist-gussets and gathering them into the wristbands1 to prepare them for putting into the shirts4 ,then put in the side-gussets1 and hem the flaps and bottom of the shirt4 ,these gussets are fixed by sewing them on at the wrong side of the shirt to within a quarter of an inch less than the square1 and felling the other side nearly over4 ,the neck gussets are next managed in the same manner1 taking care to put the stitched part on the right side4 ,the shoulder-strap is then doubled in half1 and slightly tacked on the middle of the shoulder in the inside2 then place each side flat on the shirt1 and stitch it in the lines that have been prepared for it4 ,the bosom is then stitched2 and the button-holes made1 or if1 as in gentlemen's shirts1 a piece is let into the front1 it must be arranged according to the taste of the wearer4 ,the lining is now neatly felled on1 and the neck gathered1 and set into the collar1 after which the sleeves are gathered and put in4 ,the bosom-bit may then be sewed in1 and when the buttons are put on the whole is completed4 ,the shirt is marked about an inch below the left hip or gusset4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,shirts4 ,,plate #ah4 ,gentlemen's shirts are usually made of fine ,irish linen or lawn1 and sometimes of long cloth4 ,some gentlemen wear striped calico1 but seldom1 unless engaged in sporting1 boating1 or fishing4 ,gentlemen's sons1 up to ten or eleven years of age1 or persons going into hot climates1 wear strong calico1 it being considered more healthful than linen1 the latter is1 however1 the best wearing of the two1 but more expensive4 ,care should be taken to procure the proper width1 according to the size wanted2 and the proper quantity1 according to the number required4 ,the ,suffolk hemp is considered the best for shirting4 ,gentlemen's shirts are cut much on the same principle1 but upon a more liberal plan than those mentioned for the labouring classes1 with a few exceptions3 such as some varieties in the pattern and size of binders1 collars1 shoulder-straps1 c4 ,in most of them also1 a piece of the linen is cut out in the front or bosom1 and two pieces of cambric1 or fine lawn1 either plaited1 or fulled in the place1 to form the two sides or half fronts to the shirt4 ,a scale is first given of different sizes1 and then the best of the various patterns will be explained4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- #f ,years4 #h ,years4 #aj ,years4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4,yds4 nls4 ,quantity of cloth required for #a1 about #b #g #b #ae #c #c ,quantity required for six1 about #ad #aj #af #d #bj #aj ,proper width of cloth #i #i #aj ,whole length of shirt #a #h #a #i #a #ab ,space to leave for shoulders #b #b #c ,length of arm-holes #c #c #c ,slit at the bottom for flaps #c #d #d ,width of sleeve #d #f or #g nls #f ,length of sleeve down the selvage #f #g #h ,width of binders or linings #a #a #a ,length of ditto down the selvage #f #h #h ,width of collar #d or #e nls #b #e or #f nls ,length down the selvage #f #f #g ,width of wristband #a #b #b ,length down the selvage #b #c or #c nls #c ,width of shoulder-straps #a #a ,length down the selvage #c #c #d ,size of sleeve-gussets #b #b #c ,size of neck-gusset #a #a #a ,length of piece to cut for bosom #e #e ,width of ditto #c #c ,width of cambric to put in each side #d #d ,width of shoulder-strap1 if gored #a #b #b ,widest width to be gored to #a #a #a ,width of frills if used ,bosom flap and wrist-gussets ,slit for bosom #d #e #e ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- #ab ,years4 #af ,years4 ,men's ,men's ,small ,large ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,yds4 nls4 ,quantity of cloth required for #a1 about #b #ad #c #e #c #i #c #ae ,quantity required for six1 about #ah #i #ah #i #bj #aa #bb #g ,proper width of cloth #ab #ad #ad #af ,whole length of shirt #a #ac #b #j #b #b #b #d ,space to leave for shoulders #c #c #c #c ,length of arm-holes #d #d #e #e ,slit at the bottom for flaps #d #d #d #d ,width of sleeve #f or #g nls #g #g #h ,length of sleeve down the selvage #i #i #i #aa ,width of binders or linings #b #c #c #d ,length of ditto down the selvage #ab #i #aa #aa ,width of collar #b or #b nls #b #b or #c nls #d ,length down the selvage #h #h #h #h ,width of wristband #c #c #d #d ,length down the selvage #d #d #d #d ,width of shoulder-straps #b #b #a #a ,length down the selvage #f #d #d #e ,size of sleeve-gussets #c #c #c #c ,size of neck-gusset #a #a #b #b ,length of piece to cut for bosom #f #f #f #f ,width of ditto #d #e #e #e ,width of cambric to put in each side #d #f #f #f ,width of shoulder-strap1 if gored #b #b #b #b ,widest width to be gored to #a #b #b #b ,width of frills if used #a #a #a ,bosom flap and wrist-gussets ,slit for bosom #f #f #f #f ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------- ,illustration3 ,,plate #ah ,fig #a ,fig #ad ,fig #af ,fig #cj ,fig #g ,fig #ae ,fig #ca ,fig #bg ,fig #bi ,fig #cb ,fig #h ,fig #ag ,fig #bh ,fig #i ,fig #ah ,fig #bj ,fig #aj ,fig #b ,fig #ai ,fig #cc ,fig #aa ,fig #c ,fig #ba ,fig #cf ,fig #cd ,fig #ce ,fig #ab ,fig #d ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #cg ,fig #ch ,fig #ac ,fig #e ,fig #bd ,fig #ci ,fig #dj ,fig #f ,fig #be ,fig #da ,fig #db ,,gentlemen',s ,,shirt ,,fronts4 ,,plate #ah4 ,there are various modes of making up fronts1 dependant on the age and taste of the wearer1 as well as upon the changes of fashion4 ,the material of which the front is made1 should be of a width as to allow of the two half fronts being cut in the breadth2 the length is measured from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the opening prepared for it1 allowing plenty to turn in at each end4 ,the two halves having been made up according to fancy1 are put into the front1 making them overlap each other a full nail1 exactly in the middle 7see ,fig4 #b71 which prevents the slit opening and exposing the skin4 ,the most approved fronts1 and those in general use1 are the following3-- ,a ,,young ,,child',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,is generally quite plain1 with a broad hem and small pearl buttons2 it should overlap half a nail4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this is neatly gathered in1 and at the end marked ,a1 the fulling is set into a band of calico or linen1 according to the material of the shirt1 into which the shirt itself is also gathered4 ,,an ,,older ,,boy',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,these are usually secured in broad or narrow plaits1 according to taste1 at both ends1 but not stitched down the whole way4 ,the advantage of this is to permit of the first being pulled over when washed and ironed1 at the same time that it naturally arranges itself in regular plaits whilst worn4 ,the hem is sometimes made to project from the collar to half its depth at the top1 where a little corner is left1 attached to which is a button-hole which buttons it over to the other side of the collar4 ,,another ,,boy',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this is arranged in small neat tucks1 and is more adapted to young boys than the last4 ,the make of this shirt differs from the others in most particulars4 ,the front is entire1 but with false buttons1 and it opens behind1 where there is a slit for the purpose in both shirt and collar4 ,many boys have their shirts made in this manner1 but the washerwomen complain much of the trouble of ironing these closed fronts4 ,a ,,gentleman',s ,,shirt4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this front is stitched down with the greatest neatness1 in the most perfectly regular plaits1 either broad or narrow1 according to the fashion4 ,the distance of the spaces between the plaits also varies much2 sometimes an equal distance with the width of the plait is observed1 at others only a half or a quarter1 and sometimes the plaits are made to overlap one another3 this last mode looks heavy and common4 ,either buttons or two sets of button-holes are put1 to admit of shirt studs1 in which case1 the buttons of one side are straight down the hem1 and the corresponding button-holes on the other side are cut width-wise4 ,,another ,,gentleman',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,this is fulled evenly at the top and bottom1 and a frill of the finest cambric1 sewed on to both sides4 ,sometimes the front is sewed in plain1 and two frills sewed on one side1 without any on the other1 but this is rather an old fashioned shirt4 ,,shoulder-,,straps4 ,the shoulder-straps to gentlemen's shirts vary also a little1 but the plain long strap1 ,fig4 #a and #g1 is the one most usually approved of1 nevertheless the few following shapes will be explained1 for the benefit of those who may like to adopt them4 ,a ,,child',s ,,shoulder-,,strap4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,the skirt of this shirt is carried straight up to the neck-gusset1 which alone forms the strap1 while an extra neck-gusset1 the same size1 is sewed on to the skirt at ,b1 to lengthen the shoulder2 this gusset must be cut in two parts1 to admit of the fulling of the sleeve between the pieces4 ,all the sleeve is fulled into this gusset1 and the sleeve-gusset below1 forms the rest of the arm-holes4 ,a ,,shoulder-,,strap ,,for ,,any ,,sized ,,shirt4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #c1 #h1 #i4 ,some straps1 instead of being continued over the neck-gusset1 are divided1 or split into two parts1 for about half their length1 and are made to be laid along1 the one on each side of the neck-gusset4 ,the piece is cut in a straight length1 and merely slit far enough to admit of the neck-gusset between4 ,,another ,,shoulder-,,strap4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #d1 #aj4 ,this forms shoulder-strap and neck-gusset at once1 and has a neat appearance4 ,the strip of cloth must be of the proper length and width for straps when gored1 as mentioned in the ,scale3 after being gored1 this piece of cloth is set on the shoulder1 with1 of course1 the wide end towards the collar4 ,,sleeves ,,for ,,little ,,shirts4 ,young boys often have short sleeves confined into a band1 as in the right hand sleeve of the shirt marked ,fig4 #a4 ,,another ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this is often worn by children of the working classes1 and is merely a large gusset doubled1 and sewed on double 7see the right hand sleeve of ,fig4 #b74 ,,an ,,older ,,boy',s ,,sleeve4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,this is made similar to those of a regular shirt1 excepting that sometimes half a gusset only is sewed on to the sleeve instead of a square4 ,this is less clumsy1 and with a thin arm is more comfortable1 though1 generally speaking1 the square gusset is the best1 both for wear and for appearance4 ,,various ,,ways ,,of ,,plaiting ,,the ,,skirt ,,in ,,front4 ,when the part is cut out in front1 a piece of cambric that is not so wide is put in for the front1 so that the skirt below the slit is full and requires confining2 this is done in various ways3-- ,sometimes in regular fulling1 as in ,fig4 #b4 ,sometimes in regular plaits1 as in ,fig4 #c4 ,sometimes in gathers1 brought much in front1 as ,fig4 #d4 ,sometimes in double plaits4 ,sometimes in plaits1 stitched down1 as in ,fig #e4 ,,various ,,shapes ,,of ,,wristbands4 ,the most common shaped wristband1 and one of the neatest1 is that which is perfectly straight1 and stitched neatly all round4 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #a1 #ac4 ,fig4 #ac is a favourite shape1 especially for boys4 ,it is pointed2 care must be taken in stitching it1 to make the right side lie on the outside1 when turned back1 as in ,fig4 #a 7see the wristband attached to the sleeve74 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,this is a very neat shape1 and accords with the collar of the shirt1 ,fig4 #f4 ,it is stitched all round1 neat button-holes made1 and buttons sewed on4 ,,another ,,shape4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,this is remarkably pretty1 and is much worn4 ,the wristband when unturned is nearly as wide again as its proper width1 not including the stitched hems4 ,,binders ,,and ,,linings4 ,shirts should always have binders or linings1 and these vary in a few particulars4 ,the binder is intended to strengthen that part of the shirt brought most into play by the movement of the arms1 especially at the back1 and also prevent the wear and tear of the braces4 ,gentlemen's shirts have usually the binders very narrow1 so as to leave a pretty wide space between each binder and the front1 as in ,fig4 #d4 ,it is however thought preferable by prudent wives1 either to increase the width of the binder1 so as to join the front1 as in ,fig4 #e1 or else to have a second binder or lining smaller than the first1 between the regular lining and the front 7see ,a1 ,fig4 #f74 ,,gentlemen',s ,,and ,,boys' ,,collars4 ,these vary so very much1 according to the make of the neck and chin1 as also the taste of the wearer1 that only a few general patterns will be introduced as guides4 ,many gentlemen prefer having a narrow band sewed on to the shirt1 as in ,fig4 #e1 about three-quarters of a nail deep1 on which they fasten the collar1 by letting the shirt button slip through a button-hole made in the middle of the collar4 ,collars are always of double lawn or linen4 ,a ,,little ,,boy',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #a1 is a neat finish to a shirt1 being a simple broad band back-stitched1 and a fine cambric or lawn frill crimped and sewed at the top4 ,the band should be one nail deep1 when made up4 ,,an ,,older ,,boy',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this is a very pretty collar also for the children of friends1 being particularly simple4 ,it is1 when made up1 about two nails and a half deep4 ,as it falls over the jacket1 observe to stitch it properly4 ,it would suit the wristbands in ,fig4 #ab4 ,,other ,,collars ,,for ,,older ,,boys4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #c1 ,is merely a straight band about one nail deep1 and ,fig4 #d is the same a little curved1 so as to be deeper and more pointed in front than at the back1 which gives a light appearance4 ,a ,,man',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,see ,fig4 #f4 ,this is a very neat collar1 for an elderly gentleman especially1 and when made up1 is about two nails and a quarter deep4 ,the front is curved1 and rather deeper than the back 7say half a nail73 to this collar should be worn wristbands1 ,fig4 #aa4 ,,another ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,this is a neat shape1 but1 as it is doubtful whether it would suit every one1 it should be cut in paper1 and tried on4 ,the ,plate only represents one half1 the letter ,a being the centre4 ,it should be sewed into a band4 ,a ,,neat ,,gentleman',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,this is the most approved sort1 and may be sewed to the shirt1 or to a loose band4 ,the half or gills1 are cut crosswise of the cloth1 and four of them make one collar1 as they are double2 in sewing them on the band1 two places are left to form a kind of long button-hole1 through which the strings are put when tying it on4 ,a button-hole in the middle of the collar1 enables it to be firmly fastened to the shirt1 as also do the two strings sewed to the band4 ,fig4 #ag is one gill1 and ,fig4 #ah1 the band4 ,,another ,,gentleman',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,this is also sewed upon a band1 and is a remarkably pretty shape1 if cut according to the plan of the drawing1 on which the measurements of the nails are marked4 ,the band1 ,fig4 #bh1 has in it two button-holes2 it is about one nail deep1 and eight nails long4 ,the collar is cut all in one length1 and slit down in the middle to within half a nail of the bottom1 thus making the slit one nail deep4 ,a ,,little ,,boy',s ,,collar4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba4 ,these are particularly pretty collars for little boys of from six to eight or nine4 ,they are made of double ,irish linen stitched round1 and made to fall over the dress4 ,frills are sometimes attached to them1 and suit young children very well2 two or three button-holes are made in them1 to attach them to the shirt4 ,a broad black ribbon is generally worn with them round the neck4 ,a ,,man',s ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,these are worn by men and boys1 to put on over a soiled or tumbled shirt1 to give a neat appearance2 they are1 however1 seldom used1 it being much better to put on a clean shirt at once4 ,it has two sides of fine lawn1 with a front of cambric1 which is plaited or gathered1 according to pleasure1 with a false hem down the middle1 and buttons1 so as to appear to open4 ,this is hollowed under the neck1 to the depth of a nail2 two neck-gussets are attached1 of one nail and a half square4 ,the gussets and front are sewed to a band or collar eight nails long1 and about one nail and a half in depth before it is made up4 ,a ,,boy',s ,,cheat ,,or ,,front4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #bc1 #bd1 #be4 ,this is a kind of habit-shirt1 to which a collar with a frill is attached4 ,fig4 #bc is the collar1 which should be neatly stitched1 and a frill of fine lawn or cambric1 half a nail in the whole depth1 set on round it4 ,fig4 #bd is the habit-shirt of the dimensions marked on the ,plate1 and ,fig4 #e is the cheat completed1 when sewed together4 ,a ,,gentleman',s ,,stock4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,gentlemen's stocks are worn round the neck over the collar1 and are made of stuff1 muslin1 horse-hair or buckram3 the ,figure is the shape of half of one4 ,the halves are sewed firmly together up the centre 7see ,m72 they are bound round the edge with leather1 and covered with satin1 mode1 or rich twilled silk4 ,they are sometimes made1 as in ,fig4 #bi1 with a fold of silk in the middle1 through which two ends are passed2 these are of one piece of silk1 cut the cross way1 and are four nails broad1 and seven nails long1 rounded a little at the ends4 ,,cravats4 ,they are generally made of fine muslin1 and are the shape of a half handkerchief1 being cut from a square of eighteen nails4 ,,clergyman',s ,,dress4 ,the cassock1 the gown1 the surplice1 the badge or sash1 the scarf or hood1 and the bands1 constitute the chief4 ,,the ,,cassock4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #cd1 #ce4 ,it is made sometimes of stuff1 sometimes of rich black silk1 in the following manner3--,cut four breadths of silk1 one yard and a half long each4 ,two breadths form the front1 and are sewed together2 after which1 a gore is cut from each outer side1 the width of half the breadth at the top1 sloped to a point at the bottom1 by which means1 when reversed and the seams are sown1 the front is increased at the bottom to three breadths1 while at the top it is reduced to one4 ,the other two breadths form the back2 they are gored in the same manner1 excepting that the gore is only a quarter of a breadth wide at the bottom4 ,the shoulder is hollowed down two nails4 ,the shoulder is two and a half or three nails long4 ,the arm-hole is three nails deep4 ,the arm-hole is cut into the stuff one nail4 ,the collar is six nails long1 four nails wide behind1 and two nails wide in front4 ,the sleeve is shaped like a coat sleeve1 with two seams down it1 three-quarters of a yard long1 and the whole width of the silk1 which just admits of its being shaped off in the width4 ,the wristband is four nails long1 and about two nails wide4 ,the pocket is six nails long1 and just the width of the breadth of silk1 which1 when doubled1 forms it4 ,in making up1 run and fell the seams very neatly1 making the two gores fall together between the front and back breadths4 ,the hem down the opening in front1 is half a nail broad4 ,the back has a piece of sufficient width cut out from the top1 ,a1 to the waist1 ,b 7,fig4 #ce71 to admit of its setting plain to the figure1 and from the waist the skirt is left open2 the extra fulness may be confined in two large plaits behind4 ,the top of the front is cut on each side to a point1 and on each point is a little loop or button-hole2 one loop fastens to a button inside near the collar1 see ,a 7,fig4 #cd71 and the other outside1 to a button at the opposite side of the neck 7see ,b74 ,the collar is sewed on to the back of the cassock1 so as to leave off on each side1 just at the turn in front1 thus allowing plenty of space for the bands4 ,the pocket is put in straight1 under the right arm1 about four nails below the arm-hole 7see the dotted line1 ,fig4 #cd74 ,the sleeves are lined with black twilled cotton1 the wristbands are also lined and turned up4 ,a cross-way piece of silk is laid on at the bottom of the collar of the cassock inside1 and also in front at ,a ,b 7,fig4 #cd74 ,,the ,,gown4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #cf1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj4 ,this is made of fine bombazine1 and contains four breadths1 of nineteen nails long1 and four gores of the same length1 and three nails and a half wide at the bottom1 sloped to a point at the top4 ,two of these breadths fall behind1 next are sewed the two gores1 one on each side1 and then the one breadth to hang in front on each side4 ,the sleeves are one yard long1 and1 when open1 thirteen nails wide4 ,at the end they are shaped according to ,fig4 #ci1 #dj3 the end1 ,a ,b1 being but three nails wide1 and a piece cut out at ,c1 at four nails from ,a4 ,at five nails from the shoulder1 a slit is made in front 7see ,s71 through which the arms appear1 whilst the remainder of the sleeve is sewed up all round4 ,at the back of the sleeve1 two gores of one nail and a half wide1 and two nails and a half long1 are put in4 ,the shoulder-piece is cut according to ,fig4 #cf4 ,the distance from ,a to ,b being three nails1 and the depth of the sides1 ,c to ,e1 ,d to ,e two nails and a half1 while that in the middle is only one nail and a quarter4 ,in making up1 after sewing the seams1 c4 together1 and making a hem of about one nail broad all round1 the two back breadths of the skirt should be fulled into the middle of the shoulder-piece4 ,this fulling is biassed down at about the distance of one nail and a half below the first gathering4 ,the two gores are set in on each side into the sleeve1 which is set into the shoulder-piece1 and also biassed2 the other breadth comes in front4 ,the shoulder-piece is lined with buckram and silk1 or black glazed calico1 to make it more durable4 ,,the ,,surplice4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #cb1 #cc4 ,this is made of fine ,irish linen1 one yard wide1 and has in it four breadths of one yard and a half long2 two breadths being behind1 and one on each side of the opening in front4 ,besides these four breadths1 a gore1 three nails wide and carried up to a point1 is put between the front and back breadths1 up to below the arm4 ,the straight part of the gore comes in front4 ,the sleeve1 ,fig4 #cc1 is one yard and one nail long1 and the whole width of the linen in the breadth4 ,the sleeve has two gussets in it2 that in front of the sleeve1 or nearest the wrist1 is thirteen nails square2 the other gusset1 which also forms part of the arm-hole1 is five nails and a half square4 ,the collar is thirteen nails long1 and five nails and a half in its whole width4 ,in making up1 run and fell the seams1 letting in the gores1 observing to put the straight part in front4 ,hem down the fronts half a nail deep1 and at the bottom one nail4 ,the sleeve is very peculiar1 and requires attention in making up 7see ,fig4 #cb1 #cc74 ,the large gusset is put into the sleeve towards the wrist1 so as to hang down very low below the arms4 ,this gusset is rounded off at the corner1 ,a2 and forms the other corner of the gusset1 ,b1 along the doubled part1 ,b ,a1 cut open a piece large enough to admit of the small gusset being sewed into it2 ,d is the doubled part of each gusset4 ,the whole of the top of the sleeve is gathered up into the neck at the collar1 while part of the side of the sleeve and the small gusset form the part that fits into the arm-hole of the surplice2 the skirt is all fulled into the collar1 together with the top of the two sleeves1 and then nicely biassed down in two rows below the collar4 ,the collar is stitched all round like that of a shirt4 ,,the ,,sash ,,or ,,badge4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,it is made of rich black silk or satin4 ,it is the whole breadth of the silk in depth1 and three-quarters of a yard long4 ,it is folded in three or four regular plaits until it is about two nails broad2 these plaits are confined at the ends by sewing them to double pieces of silk 7see ,a71 which are cut out two nails square1 and rounded off at the outer ends1 to a half circular form4 ,strings of ribbon of #c;d4 width1 are sewed to these ends1 which tie round the waist4 ,,the ,,scarf ,,or ,,hood4 ,this is made of silk1 but of such various forms1 depending on the degree of the wearer1 and the college where he has been educated1 that it is needless to enter upon the subject in detail4 ,,the ,,bands4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,they are made of the finest cambric1 and are about two nails deep1 and one nail wide when hemmed4 ,the hem being a quarter of a nail deep4 ,they should be a little hollowed at the top1 to fit the neck4 ,the two bands are sewed to a tape in the inside1 which ties round the neck4 ,,the ,,clerk',s ,,gown4 ,,plate #ah4 ,,fig4 #da1 #db4 ,the clerk's gown is made of black stuff or calimanco4 ,cut four breadths of about one yard and a half long2 these breadths when sewed together1 leaving one open for the front1 are biassed behind1 from the middle of the second to the middle of the third breadth2 this biassing is in three rows from the collar1 the first row being one quarter of a nail below it1 and the two others at one nail distant from each other4 ,the shoulders are next sloped from the remainder1 like those of a pinafore1 being three nails and a half long1 and sewed up4 ,the arm-hole is cut into the front breadth at the distance of one nail beyond the first seam1 and is five nails long4 ,the shoulder-flaps are one nail and a half deep1 by five long4 ,the sleeve is the whole width of the breadth1 about six nails wide when doubled1 and is fifteen or sixteen nails long2 at six nails from the top1 the slit is cut in the sleeves of two nails deep on each side of the top of the arm4 ,the bottom of the sleeve is sewed up together1 and when done1 instead of sewing them as the sleeve would naturally lie1 the stuff at the bottom is differently folded1 so as to make the two creases lie together1 and thus distorts or twists the sleeve4 ,strings are put to the collar1 which is cut like ,fig4 #ac1 ,plate #af4 ,a broad hem is made in front1 and at the bottom4 ,,children',s ,,bonnets4 ,,plate #ai4 ,the first bonnet for infants after the hood 7see ,chap4 #d1 in baby-linen71 should be soft and warm1 and till they are two or three years old1 children should wear them of cloth1 merino1 silk1 satin1 print1 or calico1 in preference to straw1 or pasteboard4 ,bonnets should be light but warm1 and for young children especially1 should have little trimming or ornament4 ,a few pretty and simple shapes for both the upper and lower classes are here given and explained4 ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child ,,six ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,this may be made of cloth1 merino1 chintz1 or nankeen1 with cotton runners4 ,it is in three parts1 the brim1 front or poke1 the crown1 and the round patch4 ,cut first a paper pattern the whole size of each part of the bonnet1 the ,plate represents but half1 therefore double the paper and cut it by the figure4 ,your paper must be five nails wide by four long1 for the poke1 ,fig4 #b4 ,measure along the top1 ,a ,b1 two and three-quarter nails1 the point1 ,c1 is exactly half way down the side1 two nails from the top and bottom2 the point1 ,g1 is two nails from the side1 and one and a half nails from the top2 curve along ,b ,g ,c4 ,e is two and a half nails from the corner2 from ,c to ,e1 must be gradually sloped or rounded3 go on1 sloping it easily1 up to ,f1 which is one and a half nails from the top2 from ,f to ,a1 is quite straight4 ,the crown comes next2 your paper must be four nails square1 when doubled at ,d4 ,from the corner to ,h1 is half a nail1 from ,h to ,i1 two nails1 slope gradually to ,k1 which is two and a quarter nails from the top3 cut in a straight line from ,k to ,l1 which is situated two nails from the corner1 and again in a straight line from ,l to ,m1 one and a quarter nail from the bottom4 ,from ,m to ,h1 is slightly curved4 ,the patch is made to fit the crown4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #ai ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #bd ,fig4 #be ,fig4 #bf ,fig4 #bg ,fig4 #bh ,fig4 #bi ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #ce ,fig4 #cf ,fig4 #cg ,fig4 #ch ,fig4 #ci ,fig4 #dj ,fig4 #da ,fig4 #db ,fig4 #dc ,fig4 #dd ,fig4 #de ,fig4 #df ,fig4 #dg ,fig4 #dh ,fig4 #di ,fig4 #ea ,fig4 #ej ,fig4 #eb ,fig4 #ec ,fig4 #ed ,fig4 #ee ,fig4 #ef ,fig4 #eg ,fig4 #ei ,fig4 #fj ,fig4 #eh ,fig4 #fa ,fig4 #fb ,fig4 #fc ,fig4 #fd ,fig4 #fe ,fig4 #ff ,in making up1 a lining is cut out exactly the size of the outside1 run the two together on the wrong side1 at the edge of the brim1 and turn them2 then run cotton cords between the lining and the outside1 as in the ,plate1 and two or three are put round the edge to give it firmness3 runners are also made in the crown and the patch1 the latter having a cord all round it1 and they are then sewed strongly together1 the part1 ,h ,m1 fitting into ,b ,g ,c1 and the patch into ,i ,k4 ,a curtain1 one nail and a half in depth1 is put on rather full behind1 and strings of the chintz1 or calico neatly hemmed1 or of ribbon will complete it4 ,the size here given is for a child five years old1 but it is a useful kind of bonnet for those much younger4 ,,child',s ,,drawn ,,bonnet4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #d1 #e1 #f4 ,this is usually made of silk1 satin1 or glazed calico4 ,the poke or front 7,fig4 #e71 is an oblong1 which is cut two or more nails down the selvage1 according to the depth desired1 and of such a length 7cut width-way of the material71 as will be two and a half times the length from ear to ear4 ,this oblong is hemmed at each side1 and bobbins put in to draw it up3 two runners are made at equal distances between to draw up4 ,the crown or head-piece1 ,fig4 #f1 is in one piece1 and is also an oblong1 about one nail deeper than the poke1 and a fourth longer4 ,make runners down each side1 and three or four equal distances between4 ,in making up the bonnet1 the poke is drawn up to the proper size1 and a double piping laid round it4 ,the crown is then formed by drawing up the first runner as close as possible1 and the second sufficiently so to make it flat and circular4 ,the remainder is drawn to the proper shape to form the head-piece1 being less drawn at each succeeding runner to make it wider at the bottom4 ,lay on a band of silk piped at each end1 and sew it firmly round1 and then attach the poke to it4 ,next make a soft lining to the head-piece1 and a circular piece of wool in muslin may be attached to the crown1 to keep it in shape4 ,a curtain and strings complete the bonnet4 ,a quilling of ribbon round the edge1 and a rosette at the side1 give a greater finish4 ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child ,,seven ,,or ,,eight ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj4 ,this is a remarkably neat little bonnet2 it is in four parts4 ,the poke is a plain piece two nails and a half deep1 by ten nails and a half long1 sloped off at the outer edge one nail and a half at each end1 it is ornamented with cotton runners1 quilted or braided2 cut a strip1 ,fig4 #h1 nine nails long by one nail and a half wide1 which must have a runner at each edge1 and the same in rows across1 to give it firmness1 if it is not quilted or braided2 the third part is another strip sixteen nails long1 and three nails and a quarter wide at the widest part1 sloped off nearly to a point at each end1 ,fig4 #aj2 the horse-shoe1 two nails and a quarter long1 and one nail and three quarters broad at the top1 is lined and has a cord run all round the edge4 ,the curtain is one nail and a half deep1 put on rather full4 ,in making up1 sew the quilted poke or front strongly to the straight strip1 ,fig4 #h2 gather the sloped strip1 ,fig4 #aj1 at each edge1 set it on one side into the straight piece1 and on the other into the horse-shoe1 fulling it more in front than at the sides4 ,put on the curtain1 and the bonnet is finished4 ,it draws up behind to the side of the head2 here it is represented as undrawn4 ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child ,,two ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #aa1 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #ae4 ,this is well adapted for a child's first or second bonnet1 and looks well1 made of coloured kerseymere or ,indiana braided or worked in chain-stitch4 ,to cut out the poke1 take a piece of paper1 which when doubled is four nails long by two and a half nails wide 7see ,fig4 #ab71 the doubled part from ,d to ,b1 is two nails long2 slope off gradually from ,a to ,e1 beginning the greatest sloping at ,f1 which is about half way down the side2 the point ,e is one nail and a half from the corner1 continue sloping to ,c1 which is about one nail above the bottom of your paper2 the curve1 ,b ,c1 is parallel to1 or even with the curve1 ,a ,f ,e4 ,the head-piece1 ,fig4 #ac1 is cut from a paper1 which when folded is three nails long and two broad2 from ,g to ,h1 the doubled part1 is one nail1 from ,g to ,l1 two nails and a quarter2 cut a slightly curved line from ,l to ,k1 the point ,k1 being half a nail from the corner1 next cut quite straight to ,j1 being three-quarters of a nail above the angle or corner1 sweep gradually from ,j to ,h4 ,fig4 #ad represents half the crown2 ,d is the doubled part1 and is four nails long from ,m to ,n2 the part from ,n to ,o is four and a half nails1 the rest from ,o to ,m1 is cut like a quarter of a circle4 ,fig4 #ae is the part that supports or holds up the crown behind1 the doubled part1 ,u ,p1 is two nails and a half long1 from ,u to ,t is two nails and a quarter1 curve it gently about half a nail2 from the corner to ,t is half a nail2 from ,t to ,s is one nail and a half1 ,s being half a nail from the side of the square2 the top of ,r1 the next vandyke is two nails in a straight line from the bottom4 ,these vandykes are about one nail deep4 ,the ,plate shows sufficiently clearly how this bonnet is made up1 to dispense with any further description1 except to say that the crown1 ,fig4 #ad1 is evenly gathered into the head-piece1 ,fig4 #ac1 and the back-piece1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,the curtain is put on1 strings and a small bow may be added behind4 ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child ,,three ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #af1 #ag1 #ah1 #ai4 ,this bonnet is very generally worn2 the one represented in the ,plate is for a little girl about three years old1 though older and younger children would find it both suitable and comfortable2 it is made of cloth1 print1 or nankeen1 lined1 and with runners in every part4 ,it is in three pieces2 to cut out the poke1 ,fig4 #ai1 take a piece of paper1 which1 when folded in two1 is four nails long and two nails and a quarter broad4 ,d is the doubled part2 from ,a to ,b is three nails1 it is slightly curved2 ,a being about one quarter of a nail from the top and half a nail from the side1 next cut in nearly a straight line to ,c1 and continue the curving to ,e1 which is half a nail from the corner2 from ,b to ,e1 in a straight line1 is two nails and a quarter2 cut in a straight direction from ,e to ,f1 the latter being one quarter of a nail above the corner2 from ,a to ,f is one nail and three-quarters4 ,the head-piece1 ,fig4 #ag1 when doubled 7,d being the folded part71 is two nails and a half long1 and two nails at the deepest part1 which is to go in the front1 sloped off to one nail and a half for the back4 ,the crown is merely a horse-shoe2 ,fig4 #ah is two nails and a half long1 one nail and three-quarters at the top1 and sloped off one quarter of a nail on each side1 so as to make it only one nail and a quarter at the bottom4 ,in making up1 the runners may be put in simply as in the ,plate1 or arranged in a pattern1 or the bonnet may be quilted1 but there must be two or three runners round the edge1 and inner part of the poke1 at the top and bottom of the head-piece1 and all round the horse-shoe4 ,put on a full curtain of one nail and a half deep4 ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child ,,four ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #bj1 #ba1 #bb4 ,this is a neat little bonnet with a stiff front1 and is cut out as follows3-- ,for the pattern of the front1 ,fig4 #bj1 let your paper1 when folded in two1 be three nails and a half long1 by three nails broad1 it may be rounded or left square at the ends1 according to fancy1 ,d being the doubled part2 this front or poke is made of stiff pasteboard4 ,the crown1 ,fig4 #bb1 is seven nails long at the doubled part1 ,d1 and six nails long at the bottom1 ,a ,b1 cut in a straight line1 ,a ,f1 for two nails1 and again straight1 ,f ,e1 for three nails1 then round it gradually up to ,c4 ,before making up1 cut out two pieces of calico1 print1 silk1 or other material1 the size of the poke1 ,fig4 #ba1 then run them neatly together at the edge1 and up the ends1 and slip the pasteboard in2 hem the bottom of the crown1 ,fig4 #bb1 ,a ,b1 and up the ends1 ,a ,f1 for the curtain4 ,hem from ,f to ,e1 and make a runner about half a nail within the edge up to ,c1 through which a bobbin must be passed1 and drawn up to the width of the poke2 it must be sewed strongly to the outside of the front1 letting the little frill lie over it1 as in the ,plate1 forming a sort of trimming2 the lining of the poke must be only turned in1 and slightly tacked down1 so that the pasteboard may be easily taken out when the bonnet is washed4 ,a runner is made across the back of the crown1 about two nails above ,f ,e ,g1 through which tapes are passed3 the ends of the lower ones are sewed a little way along the poke1 and when the bonnet is fitted to the head1 these runners are drawn to the proper size4 ,put on hemmed strings of the same material4 ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,child1 ,,three1 ,,four1 ,,or ,,five ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #bc1 #bd1 #be1 #bf4 ,this is a school child's common bonnet1 it may be made of print1 gingham1 or nankeen1 and is in three parts4 ,the head-piece1 ,fig4 #bd1 when folded in two1 is seven nails long1 and three nails wide at the doubled and widest part1 ,d1 sloped off to one nail and a half at the bottom4 ,the poke1 ,fig4 #bf1 when doubled1 is two nails and a half broad1 by three nails and a half long1 and a little rounded from ,a to ,b4 ,fig4 #be is the horse-shoe1 two nails long1 and two nails broad at the top1 sloped off to one nail and three-quarters at the bottom4 ,in making up1 the front is wadded or quilted1 with a cotton runner at the outer edge1 and two or three at the inner edge1 to give it firmness2 a runner is also put in round the horse-shoe4 ,the front of the crown is gathered evenly to the poke1 the horse-shoe set in1 and a curtain set on behind4 ,when worn1 the front of the bonnet is turned up1 as in the ,plate4 ,,another ,,soft ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,young ,,child4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #bg1 #bh1 #bi4 ,this is also a school child's bonnet1 and may be made of any soft or washing material4 ,fig4 #bi represents the poke1 which1 when doubled at ,d1 is three nails and a half long1 by three nails wide4 ,the crown1 ,fig4 #bh1 is six nails wide at the bottom1 and seven nails at its longest part1 rounded off on each side2 three runners are made at the bottom of it1 about a nail apart4 ,the poke is quilted1 wadded1 or run with cotton1 and the crown sewed to it1 rather fuller in the centre in front1 than at the sides2 the runners are drawn up1 and tied at the proper size1 and upon the lower one a curtain1 one nail and a half or two nails deep1 is set1 and extends a little on each side upon the ends of the front or brim4 ,,hats ,,and ,,caps4 ,,plate #ai4 ,hats and caps for young boys should be made of soft materials1 similar to bonnets for little girls2 as they become older1 their hats must of course be stronger and stiffer2 some of both sorts will here be described1 as well as travelling and other caps for grown-up persons4 ,,porringer ,,cloth ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #cj4 ,this is an extremely simple cap for young boys2 it is made of cloth or merino1 and consists of three pieces4 ,the band1 which is merely a piece of cloth half a nail deep1 and sufficiently long to go round the child's head1 say1 eight nails and a half1 or nine nails long2 the head-piece1 which is also about nine nails long1 before being joined up1 and one nail and a half deep1 is made with runners in an upright direction or across the cloth at regular distances1 which give a degree of firmness to the cap2 the round patch or crown is about one nail and a half across1 with a runner made round the edge of it4 ,when made up1 it should be lined with demet or flannel and soft calico4 ,,soft ,,hat ,,for ,a ,,young ,,child4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #ca1 #cb4 ,this little hat looks very pretty made of glazed cambric muslin or of calico1 either white or coloured2 if wanted for winter wear1 it may be made of merino1 cloth1 or kerseymere1 plain or braided4 ,for the brim1 ,fig4 #cb1 cut a circle five nails across1 with a hole in the centre of it two nails across1 for the head1 a little may be sloped off from the back1 or not1 according to pleasure2 the crown is one nail and a quarter deep1 and nine nails long before it is joined up1 and the circle or patch is made to fit exactly4 ,when the hat is made of glazed calico1 it is lined with the same1 and runners of cotton put in1 either simply or in a pattern4 ,a strap or ribbon is attached on each side1 from about half way up the crown to about half the breadth of the brim1 to keep it up and in its place4 ,strings are sewed at the inside4 ,,soft ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,young ,,boy4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,this cap is made of glazed calico1 white or coloured1 or of any other soft light material1 with runners in it2 the brim is cut in the shape of ,fig4 #ci1 it is four nails and a quarter long1 one nail and a half broad at the deepest part1 sloped off as in the ,plate2 the crown is one nail and a quarter deep1 and from eight to nine nails long before being sewed up2 the circle of course is made to fit it4 ,,another ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,this is only a variety of the preceding cap2 the brim is cut like ,fig4 #ce1 and is four nails long1 and one nail deep1 at the broadest part in front1 sloped off at the ends2 the ,plate shews the way in which the runners are put in4 ,,cap ,,for ,,an ,,infant ,,boy4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #cf1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci4 ,this is a remarkably pretty cap for an infant1 after he has left off his hood2 it is made of white or coloured satin1 kerseymere1 or merino4 ,the brim1 ,fig4 #ci1 is four nails and a quarter long1 one nail and a half deep1 and sloped as in the ,plate1 the head-piece is a full nail deep when folded in small plaits1 and eight nails and three-quarters long before it is sewed up2 the little flap or piece behind1 ,fig4 #ch1 is about one nail deep2 the longest part of it1 or that to be turned up1 is two nails and three-quarters long2 that fastened to the hat is one nail and three-quarters2 it is sloped at each end4 ,the square or top of the hat1 is two nails and a half every way2 four other pieces must be cut one nail deep1 and two nails and three-quarters wide at the top1 sloped at each side down to two nails at the bottom4 ,in making up1 take a piece of buckram of the size of the head-piece1 lay it upon a demet or thin wadding1 and flute the kerseymere upon it1 putting a fine silk cord1 or a piece of coarse stay or netting silk between the flutes4 ,the crown must next be prepared2 ornament the square according to fancy1 working the pattern in spots1 either in braid1 or in stay or netting silk2 line this also with buckram1 demet1 and silk1 to each side of the square1 sew the widest side of each of the four pieces above described1 these pieces having previously been lined1 as before mentioned1 sew the corners of the four firmly together1 inlaying a piping2 the head-piece is then put on1 next set on the back-piece1 ,fig4 #ch1 this is lined with silk or satin1 in the following manner3--,after the buckram is put in1 the lining is sewed to it1 and not being sloped at the narrow end of the kerseymere1 it allows of being fulled or plaited at the part nearest the hat4 ,the brim is finished in the same manner1 the satin lining being plain at the edge1 and gathered to the head-piece2 it has also demet and buckram within the lining1 and is worked in a similar manner to the square1 upon the front or turned up part1 which is of kerseymere4 ,put a silk1 calico1 or muslin lining into the head1 and a silk tassel at the left corner of the square2 a satin rosette in front1 and strings complete the cap4 ,,boy',s ,,cap ,,of ,,five ,,or ,,six ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #dj1 #da1 #db1 #dc4 ,this cap is made of cloth or ,holland2 the crown1 ,fig4 #da1 is fourteen nails long1 and three nails deep2 the band1 ,fig4 #db1 is eight nails long1 and half a nail broad2 the brim or edge1 ,fig4 #dc1 is eleven nails long1 and one nail deep4 ,in making up1 the crown1 ,fig4 #da1 is wadded and lined1 it is then gathered evenly into the band on one side1 and into the small circular patch or button on the other2 the band1 ,fig4 #db1 is lined with flannel as well as calico2 the brim1 which is wadded and lined1 has a piece of buckram put within the lining1 it is sewed on so as to turn up and set rather round4 ,a tassel or bow of ribbon may or may not be added at the top1 according to pleasure4 ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,boy ,,seven ,,or ,,eight ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #dd1 #de1 #df1 #dg4 ,this looks neat made of ,holland1 with a piping of dark blue1 green1 or the same colour4 ,the top of the crown is in eight pieces1 cut out of a circle1 five nails across2 this will make each division two nails and a half long1 and two nails at the broadest part1 sloped to a point1 and the shape of ,fig4 #df4 ,the side of the crown is in four pieces1 ,fig4 #dg2 to cut these1 make another circle the same size as the top1 and in the centre of it cut a smaller one1 two nails across1 then divide the circle into four parts4 ,the band is about one nail broad1 when made up1 and nine nails long1 before it is joined at the ends4 ,in making up1 sew the eight pieces together1 laying a coloured piping between them1 and putting a button at the top2 the four sides1 ,fig4 #dg1 being previously lined with buckram1 demet1 and glazed calico1 are then each sewed to the circle thus formed1 one of the sides fitting to two of the smaller pieces at the top2 they must be sewed on the wrong side very firmly1 and turned down1 so that the stitches are not seen on the outside1 the ends of these four pieces being piped1 are then sewed together4 ,the cap is now ready for the band1 which1 after being wadded1 is stitched on1 and the whole is finished4 ,,cap ,,for ,a ,,boy1 ,,six ,,or ,,eight ,,years ,,old4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #dh1 #di1 #ej4 ,this is a simple cap and easily made2 it consists merely of two pieces4 ,the crown is a circle of eight nails across1 lined and wadded1 which is equally gathered all round1 and set into a band1 which is one nail and a half deep1 and nine or ten nails long before it is joined up1 ,fig4 #ej3 this band is also wadded1 and a bow of ribbon may be put on one side4 ,,cap ,,for ,,an ,,older ,,boy4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #ec1 #ed1 #ee1 #ef4 ,this is a remarkably neat cap1 and may be worn by either a boy or a man2 it is generally made of cloth4 ,the circle at the top is five nails across1 the side part is cut out of a circle in the same manner as that of ,fig4 #de1 the outer circle being five nails across1 and the inner one two nails2 this circle is divided into four pieces2 the band1 ,fig4 #ef1 is one nail and a quarter broad1 and eleven nails long before it is sewed up2 the peak1 ,fig #ee1 is generally made of patent leather2 it is part of a circle1 five nails across1 and is one nail and a quarter deep at the broadest part4 ,in making up1 the circle is first lined with flannel and then with silk2 it is stretched over a strong but not very thick wire at the edge1 to keep it in shape1 and a piping of cloth put on all round3 the sides1 ,fig4 #ed1 are then lined with soft leather1 and sewed to the circle on the wrong side1 before being joined together2 the seams are next sewed up1 and a thin hoop of whalebone put at the bottom of these sides1 just where the band is to be joined on1 round the head2 the band is firmly stitched to it1 which band is also lined with thin1 but not very pliable leather3 the peak is then put on2 a lining of leather one nail and a quarter deep is sewed in the inside1 to the inner part of which1 a piece of silk is attached1 with a string-case and cord to draw it up to the size of the head4 ,sometimes a band of black velvet1 or of silver or gold lace is laid upon the cloth one1 sometimes it is left quite plain4 ,the strap under the chin is of patent leather1 fastened at the side with a small buckle4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,travelling ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #eg1 #eh4 ,this is a particularly comfortable cap1 and is easily made4 ,it is composed of fine cloth of any dark colour1 trimmed with fur4 ,make a circle1 seven nails across1 and cut it into six parts2 the brim is made either of patent leather1 or of cloth1 it must be three nails and a half long at the straight part or bottom of it1 one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part1 and rounded off at each end3 the flaps or pieces for the ears are also one and three-quarters of a nail deep at the broadest part2 they are cut in one length with the band1 which goes behind the cap1 and is one nail deep2 the whole length1 including the ear-flaps1 is seven nails4 ,in making up1 first join with a piping of the same1 all the six divisions of the crown1 fastening them at the top with a round button1 and put in a lining of wadding1 stiffened muslin1 and any dark coloured silk2 sew all these round the edge1 and then put on the brim or peak3 this1 when of cloth1 is made of two pieces the same size and shape2 run them together at the edge on the wrong side1 with a piping between them1 turn them to the right side1 put in a piece of stiff muslin1 and a thin wadding1 sew it on to the front of the cap at the edge1 and again half a nail above1 so that1 though it can be pulled down over the eyes1 it usually remains turned up1 as in ,fig4 #eg3 the band behind1 with the ear-flaps1 is then sewed on2 this is a piece of cloth1 with a strip of dark fur or velvet laid on it1 so that when the strings of the ear-flaps are tied under the chin1 the fur lies against the throat and ears1 and when not required1 the strings are tied on the top of the head1 the velvet or fur forming a kind of trimming to the cap4 ,a ,,lady',s ,,riding ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,this is made of velvet1 and is simply a straight piece1 a yard long and about eight nails deep1 lined with flannel or wadding1 buckram and silk1 which is joined up at the two ends1 and gathered on the one side1 under a small flat silk or gold button1 and on the other1 into a velvet band1 one nail deep1 and made to fit the head4 ,a silk bow and tassel 7see ,fig4 #ea7 are put on at the top1 and ribbon strings fasten under the chin1 or not1 according to pleasure4 ,a ,,travelling ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #fj4 ,this is a soft cap1 and is generally made of cloth4 ,it is formed of a circle1 eight nails across1 cut in eight parts1 which are joined with pipings of the same1 and fastened at the top with a knot or tassel4 ,the crown is lined in a similar manner to ,fig4 #eh1 and the band1 which must have buckram within the lining of silk or soft leather1 is firmly stitched to it4 ,a ,,neat ,,boy',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #fa4 ,this is made of cloth or ,holland4 ,the top is a circle of five nails across1 the head-piece is nine nails long1 and one nail and a half deep when made up1 it is plaited in very small exact folds1 and therefore before it is made up1 it must be four nails and a half broad3 the brim or peak is of patent leather1 and the strap under the chin of the same4 ,in making up1 the top or crown must be wadded1 stiffened with buckram1 and lined3 the head-piece is then prepared1 by being folded1 and the folds stitched upon a piece of stiff buckram1 the proper length3 the crown is sewed to it1 the peak and strap put on1 as in the ,plate4 ,a ,,travelling ,,cap ,,for ,,gentlemen ,,or ,,ladies4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #fb1 #fc4 ,this is a very simple1 and at the same time1 a very good looking cap3 it is made either of velvet1 or of fine cloth1 and when doubled1 as in ,fig4 #fb1 forms nearly a square4 ,to make it1 put in a wadding and lining1 join it up behind1 ,a ,b1 make a string-case1 ,a ,c1 through which a silk cord must be run1 which draws it up to the shape of a cap1 and trim it round the edge or brim with some rich fur4 ,the advantage of the string-case at the top is1 that when not in use1 it will pack quite flatly and take up little room4 ,,the ,,working ,,man',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #ai4 ,,fig4 #fd1 #fe1 #ff4 ,fold a sheet of common brown paper to make a workman's cap1 as follows3-- ,let it be a square of ten nails1 double it across like a half-handkerchief1 and crease it well2 open it and cross it again the other way1 open it again1 double down the middle one way1 and crease it well2 on spreading it out1 it will be marked according to the lines in ,fig4 #fe4 ,measure from the centre on the cross lines1 about one nail and three-quarters 7see ,a ,b ,c ,d71 next crease the paper from side to side through these points1 thus3--one line through ,a ,b1 another through ,c ,d1 and again ,c ,a1 and ,d ,b2 this will form a square in the middle4 ,cut out a nail square at every corner1 as in ,fig4 #ff4 ,in folding it up1 the square1 ,a ,b ,c ,d1 in the centre1 forms the top of the cap1 and the points1 ,e ,f1 are doubled according to the crosswise plait1 and crossed in front towards each other1 the other points1 ,g ,h1 are likewise crossed behind towards their opposite ends4 ,the cap is then formed by merely turning up a piece all round to make it stand firmly4 7,fig4 #fd47 ,,women',s ,,bonnets4 ,,plate #bj4 ,bonnets being1 like gowns1 dependent in a great measure on the fancy and whim of the day1 will only be treated of as to the general modes of making them up1 and a few of the very plainest shapes given4 ,bonnets are made of velvet1 plush1 satin1 silk1 crape1 book-muslin1 chip1 gingham1 and glazed calico4 ,the foundations are either pasteboard1 buckram1 stiff muslin1 or willow4 ,bonnets are kept in shape by means of wire1 chip1 or whalebone4 ,they are lined either with the material of which the bonnet is made1 or with some other1 lighter or warmer1 according to taste1 and the time of the year2 but care must be taken that the colours either harmonize or decidedly contrast4 ,when the lining is white1 a sheet of tissue paper is put between it and the bonnet1 whether it be of silk1 or only of straw2 this makes the white material1 whatever it may be1 look a much purer colour than it otherwise would do4 ,a piece of demet or of thin wadding should always be laid between the foundation and the silk1 or other material of which it is made1 unless that material is very thick4 ,bonnets may be lined with ribbon in the following manner3-- ,take a piece similar to the trimming1 and long enough to be run plainly to the outer edge of the bonnet all round1 the other side of the ribbon is finely gathered1 and being drawn up to the size of the inside of the bonnet1 it is neatly sewed to it1 forming a kind of border or trimming4 ,when a bonnet is lined plainly1 or the cross-way1 it takes half a yard cut crosswise4 ,if a curtain is required in addition1 three-quarters of a yard1 cut the straight way1 must be purchased4 ,in fitting your lining1 lay it across the bonnet1 so that as little as possible is wasted or cut off at the corner2 put small pins all round the edge1 and the inside also1 so as to keep it in its place1 cutting off the superfluous quantity and then sew it1 concealing your stitches as much as possible between the lining and the bonnet4 ,to line a bonnet the straight way1 so that1 though plain at the edge1 it is a little fulled or plaited into the crown1 about three-quarters of a yard is required1 influenced of course in some degree1 both by the depth of the poke and its width4 ,this lining is very easily put in2 sew it round the edge on the wrong side as far as the ears or rounded part of the bonnet1 by which means the stitches are quite concealed1 then turn it1 and sew the rest as neatly as you can2 the lining looks the best plaited into the crown2 to do this equally1 begin in the middle1 making a perfectly straight fold1 the rest on each side should incline a little to the centre1 and be very small and regular4 ,bonnets may be trimmed in a great variety of ways with the material of which they are made1 cut crosswise and either hemmed or lined1 so as to form a kind of ribbon1 with velvet1 plush1 satin1 silk1 crape1 gauze1 muslin1 or ribbon4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #bj4 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #be ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h #i ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #bd ,fig4 #bf ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #bg ,fig4 #bh ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #bi ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #cf ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #cg ,fig4 #ch ,fig4 #ce ,fig4 #dj ,fig4 #da ,fig4 #de ,fig4 #di ,fig4 #ea ,fig4 #eb ,fig4 #ci ,fig4 #db ,fig4 #df ,fig4 #dh ,fig4 #ec ,fig4 #dc ,fig4 #dd ,fig4 #dg ,fig4 #ej ,fig4 #ed ,bows to be worn in front1 or at the side1 are generally made up and sewed upon a piece of wire ribbon1 which gives them firmness1 and makes them keep in their place and shape4 ,velvet or plush trimmings are generally lined with satin or silk of the same shade4 ,the colour of the ribbon1 if not an exact match with that of the bonnet1 should be darker4 ,curtains may be made either of the material that lines the bonnet or ribbon4 ,for the former1 the silk or satin is cut the cross-way1 and is from one nail and a half to two nails deep2 it is hemmed at the edge1 and sometimes a straw plait or silk cord is laid on above the hem2 they may be either plaited on to the bonnet in large full plaits1 or hemmed1 and a piece of ribbon1 exactly the length that the curtain is to be1 run in2 this looks better than the plaiting1 and does not so soon become flattened4 ,ribbon curtains are made in two ways1 the one by merely plaiting or gathering a straight piece of ribbon1 and hemming the ends2 the other1 and much the prettiest method1 is also the most complicated4 ,fold the end of your ribbon down like a half-handkerchief1 ,fig4 #ac1 and cut it off1 thus leaving a cross-way end2 fold it again1 straight down the ribbon1 measuring it so as to be doubled the same depth top and bottom1 thus forming a piece like ,fig4 #ad3 cut off a number of these pieces1 which must then be run very flatly together1 so that the cross-way parts of the ribbon are at the top and bottom1 and the border or edge lies in oblique or slanting lines across the curtain1 ,fig4 #ae1 #af2 one end will be pointed or sloped outwards1 in order to make the other like it1 the half square cut off at first1 must be joined to it4 ,the number of pieces of course must depend on the breadth of the ribbon1 the whole curtain should be about three-quarters of a yard long2 when the parts are joined together1 hem your curtain top and bottom1 running a ribbon in at the top1 in order to full it properly to the bonnet4 ,,old ,,woman',s ,,bonnet4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #a1 #b1 #c4 ,this is a comfortable shape for an old woman1 and is very easily made4 ,it is in two pieces1 the front or poke is made of pasteboard1 covered with silk or any dark coloured material4 ,to cut the pattern of it1 take a piece of paper1 four nails and a half square when folded 7see ,fig4 #b71 let ,d be the doubled part1 and round it off gradually at the corner1 ,a4 ,the crown is cut out according to ,fig4 #c4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -- ,nails4 ,from ,b to ,c the doubled part #h ,from ,b to ,g #h ,from ,g to ,f #b ,from ,f to ,e #d ,then slope gradually to ,c from ,e ---------------------------------------- -- 99_/ ,in making up1 having previously cut out two pieces the proper size to cover the poke1 one for the outside1 and one for the lining1 run them together on the wrong side1 round that part which is to form the edge of the bonnet1 leaving open that which is to be sewed to the crown1 and slip the pasteboard into it3 then begin the crown1 ,fig4 #c1 hem it at the bottom and make a runner from ,f ,e to ,h1 and another1 one nail or one nail and half above it1 and put in a string2 set the front of the crown1 ,c ,e1 on to the poke1 either in gathers or small plaits1 draw up the runners behind to the proper size to fit the head1 and fasten them2 sew each end of the curtain a little way on the ends of the poke as in the ,plate2 put a ribbon on across the front1 and strings1 with a bow at the top2 one may be added behind1 at pleasure4 ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,society ,,of ,,friends4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #d1 #e1 #f4 ,these bonnets are made of black1 white1 grey1 or fawn coloured silk4 ,they are cut out as follows3-- ,for the pattern of the poke1 ,fig4 #f1 let your paper be doubled at ,d1 which part must be four nails and a half long2 from ,a to ,b is three nails and three-quarters2 slope off the front at the corner4 ,for the crown1 ,fig4 #e1 let the doubled part1 ,d1 be eight nails long1 and from ,c to ,e is four nails and a half2 it is gradually sloped from ,f1 as in the ,plate4 ,in making up1 run the pieces cut for the outside and lining together at the edge1 on the wrong side1 and having turned them1 slip in the pasteboard2 plait the front of the crown into the poke in very small exact folds1 leaving it quite plain for some distance above the ears2 make a narrow runner behind of one nail and a half in depth1 to form a curtain1 and put on ribbon strings the same colour as the bonnet4 ,a ,,neat ,,bonnet ,,for ,a ,,servant4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h1 #i4 ,to cut out the poke of this bonnet1 ,fig4 #h1 which is of pasteboard1 take a doubled piece of paper1 five nails wide1 by four nails and a half long1 letting ,d be the doubled part4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,b #b ,from ,a to ,f #a ,from the corner to ,e #c ,above the corner to ,c #b ------------------------------- 99_/ ,curve from ,b to ,c1 slope from ,c to ,e1 round from ,e to ,f4 ,the foundation of the crown1 ,fig4 #i1 is of buckram1 or willow2 let your doubled paper be three nails and a half wide1 by four nails and a quarter long2 ,d is the doubled part4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from the corner to ,c #b ,from the corner to ,h #b ,from the corner to ,i #a ,j above the corner #a ------------------------------ 99_/ ,curve from ,g to ,h1 cut from ,h to ,i1 and from ,i to ,j4 ,the circular top or patch1 is cut to fit the bonnet4 ,in making up1 cover each part with silk1 laying a thin piece of wadding between the silk and the foundation1 then sew them very firmly together1 with strong silk or waxed thread1 and put a ,persian or muslin lining in the crown4 ,silk cut the cross-way and laid in moderate sized plaits may be folded round the crown of the bonnet1 which has a very neat appearance4 ,the more simply it is trimmed1 the better it looks2 a ribbon across1 to form strings1 and one bow behind or at the side1 is quite sufficient4 ,a ,,school ,,girl',s ,,bonnet4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #aj1 #aa1 #ab4 ,to cut out the poke1 ,fig4 #aa1 when laid open1 let your paper be eight nails wide1 by seven long4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from ,a to ,s is #c ,from ,s to ,b #b ,from ,t to ,c #d ,above the corner to ,e #a ,from the side to ,f #a ,from the top to ,f #b ,from ,z to ,y #c ------------------------------- 99_/ ,cut from ,f to ,e1 round from ,f to ,c1 and from ,c1 through ,y1 and ,b1 to ,a1 curve ,a ,z ,f4 ,the crown or head-piece1 ,fig4 #ab1 is thus formed2 let your paper be six nails wide1 by seven nails and a half long4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from ,h to ,g #b ,from the corner to ,g ,from the corner to ,k #b ,j is from the corner #a ,from the corner to ,i #b ------------------------------ 99_/ ,slope ,g to ,k1 shape according to the ,plate from ,k to ,j1 cut from ,j to ,i1 curve from ,i to ,h4 ,the top or circle is cut exactly to fit this crown4 ,this bonnet is made of glazed calico2 the poke is of pasteboard4 ,if many of them are required1 it is the best economy to cut out all the pokes at once1 and then all the crowns1 as they will fit into each other4 ,make it up as follows3-- ,after joining the two ends of the head-piece1 wire and sew the circle into it1 then tack the calico on the crown or circle2 then tack a piece of calico outside the head-piece1 piping it up the joinings2 run on the lining of the poke1 after which the outside cover is put on and tacked strongly at the edge2 the trimming will conceal the stitches2 sew the trimming1 which is merely a cross-way hem one nail deep and piped to the inside of the edge of the poke with small stitches1 then turn it over on the outside and sew it neatly down to the upper calico1 taking care not to go through the pasteboard4 ,fasten the poke to the crown1 and then put in the lining1 making it to draw1 and sewing it on the inside4 ,the trimming1 piping and bow1 are all cut the cross-way2 the strings are half a yard long1 cut straight4 ,one bonnet takes one sheet of #c;d4 pasteboard1 and about one yard and a half of #d;d4 glazed calico1 including the trimming2 with the wire it comes to #i;d4 prime cost4 ,for winter wear1 it is desirable to line both poke and crown with wadding or flannel4 ,a neat simple trimming for children's bonnets1 is made as follows3-- ,cut strips of glazed calico1 one nail wide1 fold them so that the raw edges shall lie at the back2 making each strip somewhat less than half a nail broad1 and then with a long needleful of coloured thread1 run on the right side of it1 up and down in vandykes2 when done1 draw it up1 and it forms a pretty sort of edging4 ,,oiled ,,silk ,,hoods4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ag1 #ah4 ,these hoods are convenient for persons who travel much1 or go excursions in open carriages1 as a protection against rain2 they are made of oiled silk1 either black1 or light coloured1 the former looks best4 ,the shape is very simple1 the hood consisting of four parts3 the front is a straight piece1 one yard long1 and six nails and a half broad4 ,the horse-shoe1 ,fig4 #ah1 which is rather a different shape to the usual one1 is six nails and a half long1 four nails wide at the top1 and five nails at the bottom2 the curtain or tippet is half a yard deep1 and one yard and three-quarters long2 the band is one nail broad1 ten nails long4 ,in making up1 the head-piece is run to the horse-shoe quite plainly1 and the front1 or part round the face is hemmed or bound2 it is then set into the band1 the horse-shoe being plainly put in1 and the rest plaited in small folds2 the curtain is sewed on in small plaits all round1 the band lined with silk or ribbon1 and a large hook and eye or chain is put on4 ,the curtain is either hemmed or bound all round4 ,,cal,,che4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,these are worn by ladies who walk short distances to evening parties1 and are better than a bonnet as they do not crush or disturb the cap or head dress4 ,a calche is best made of dark silk or satin1 and lined with the same colour2 it is in three parts4 ,the front1 or head-piece1 is seven nails and a half wide1 and one yard long2 the horse-shoe1 ,fig4 #ai1 is five nails and a half long by four nails and a half broad1 at the widest part1 sloped down to four nails at the bottom2 the curtain is one yard and a quarter long1 and one nail and a half deep4 ,a lining is cut out exactly similar to the outside2 and it is made up as follows3-- ,run the edges of the head-piece and lining together on the wrong side1 and turn them1 put in a piece of whalebone the whole length of the front1 viz3--one yard1 about half a quarter of a nail broad1 and run on the other side of it1 to secure it1 leave a space of one nail and a half broad1 and make a runner the proper width to receive a second whalebone1 and then1 leaving the same distances1 make runners for two more2 the spaces between are quilted1 as in the ,plate1 to give a little firmness to the whole4 ,between the fourth whalebone and the outer edge is an interval of two nails and a half1 and this is not quilted like the rest4 ,the horse-shoe is then made1 the outside and lining being run together1 a whalebone is put in1 7see ,fig4 #ai71 at the edge1 and again another1 one nail within4 ,the head-piece is then gathered 7the rough edges of both the satin and lining being turned within1 so as to make it perfectly neat at the inside71 and sewed to the horse-shoe1 the fulness being chiefly towards the top4 ,it is then gathered at the neck1 and bound with ribbon1 or a piece of the same material1 which form a string-case2 and the curtain is set on1 lined or not1 according to pleasure4 ,a ribbon1 about one yard long1 is sewn on the front of the calche1 three nails from the bottom on each side1 forming a kind of loop1 by which to hold it forward when it is worn4 ,,cloaks4 ,,plate #bj4 ,cloaks may be made of satin1 silk1 cloth1 merino1 shawling1 both the real and the imitation1 ,scotch-plaid1 ,orleans or common stuff4 ,the choice of materials is of course influenced by the purpose for which the cloak is intended to be used2 for instance1 carriage or travelling cloaks are plain of a thicker substance1 and have less work in them than those used for walking in4 ,satin cloaks have frequently a velvet cape or collar1 sometimes they are trimmed with broad velvet hems1 laid on all round1 or with fur1 and occasionally lined with fur also4 ,silk and merino cloaks may likewise be trimmed with velvet1 cut or uncut1 plush or fur1 and lined with the same1 or they may be made perfectly plain4 ,as a silk cloak is at all times a costly article of dress1 and1 with care1 will last a long time1 it is worth while to have the silk a very good one2 it should be soft and rich1 not liable to crease3 levantine1 satinette1 or satin silk1 are the best2 and the colour should be one that will not easily fly1 change1 or spot2 dark shades generally look the best1 as black1 violet1 myrtle-green1 or deep marone4 ,satin1 silk1 and fine merino cloaks should be lined with sarsenet1 either the same colour1 or some well chosen contrast3 but as these sarsenet linings cost a good deal for a full sized cloak1 two old silk gowns1 nicely picked to pieces1 and either washed or dyed1 would be a good substitute1 where economy is an object3 when this is done1 it is a good plan to turn a deep hem of the outside silk over the edge1 on each side in front1 or it is better still to let the two front breadths of the lining be of new silk4 ,cloaks may either be simply lined with a piece of flannel between the silk and the lining1 which makes them light and suitable for walking in the autumn and the spring1 or they may be lined and wadded2 this is done by laying breadths either of thin flannel or lining muslin1 cut the same size as the breadths of silk on a table1 and placing upon them sheets of wadding1 so as to cover them entirely2 then with a long needleful of thread1 the wadding should be tacked or basted in wide stitches backwards and forwards in sort of vandykes upon the muslin or flannel1 in order that it may always keep in its place1 which otherwise it would not do4 ,the flannel with the wadding thus sewed to it1 is then put between the two silks and the seams run up4 ,,lady',s ,,silk ,,cloak4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,it consists of six breadths of silk1 the proper length to fit the person for whom it is made1 i4 e4 from the collar-bone to the top of the shoe4 ,cut a shoulder-piece the shape of ,fig4 #a1 or #d1 ,plate #ac1 making it to fit1 with flannel and silk lining to suit2 next cut a collar1 ,fig4 #g1 ,plate #ac1 with a stiff muslin and silk lining2 then cut the cape1 ,fig4 #ae and #af1 ,plate #ac1 with only a silk lining4 ,in making up1 having laid the lining and wadding together as described above1 run up the seams2 cut the arm-holes one nail and a half from the seam between the first and second breadths1 and two nails and a quarter below the shoulder-piece2 each arm-hole is three nails and a quarter long4 ,the shoulder-piece is next made1 by running the silk and lining together1 with the wadding and flannel between them on the wrong side1 and then turning it to the other2 the three back breadths of the skirt are then hollowed out to fit the shoulder-piece1 next full the whole into the shoulder-piece1 letting the two front breadths1 reach to the shoulder only1 while the rest is sewed to the back4 ,a hem one nail and three-quarters deep of cross-way velvet1 cut or uncut1 or an edging of fur may be put on1 up the fronts according to pleasure4 ,the back is then plaited in behind1 at a proper distance below the shoulder-piece1 to suit the waist1 say four nails1 and a band long enough to go round the waist is laid upon these folds1 and drawn through two large button-holes1 one at each end of the plaiting2 this band hooks or buttons in front1 inside the cloak4 ,another way of confining it at the waist1 is1 by laying a ribbon along the inside of the back breadth1 at the proper distance from the top1 thus forming a kind of string-case1 through which two ribbons are passed1 fastened at one end1 and drawn out at the other1 of the runner2 these ribbons tie round the waist at the inside4 ,the collar having previously been lined1 is then set on1 and small pieces1 three nails and a quarter long and half a nail broad1 are lined1 piped all round1 and sewed on one side of each arm-hole1 so as to lay over and cover it when the arms are not in4 ,the cloak is fastened at the throat either by long silk cords the same colour1 with tassels at the ends1 or by a gilt or bronze chain4 ,the capes of these cloaks are frequently made loose from them1 in which case they may be worn separately as mantles or short cloaks2 when they are fastened on1 they are sewed to the shoulder-piece4 ,,lady',s ,,mantelet ,,or ,,short ,,cloak4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,these are made of velvet1 satin1 silk1 cloth1 merino or shawling2 they are lined with silk1 muslin1 or glazed calico1 and trimmed with lace1 fringe1 velvet1 satin or fur2 they are very convenient and light for walking1 or going out in an evening4 ,a mantelet reaches to a little above the knee1 and fastens in the front with hooks and eyes2 it is made exactly like the cape of a large cloak1 with five breadths in it1 a little hollowed round the neck1 and set into a band1 or a collar turned over4 ,,large ,,carriage ,,cloak ,,or ,,roquelaure4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,used by ladies in an open carriage1 to put on in case of rain4 ,it is made of plaid or some woollen material1 and consists of five breadths of eleven nails wide1 and one yard and a half long2 two arm-holes are made five nails from the top of the cloak1 and five nails long1 to these arm-holes are sewed loose sleeves1 eight nails long1 and four nails wide1 when sewed up2 they are merely attached to the cloak by being sewed to the top of the arm-hole1 so that they may be put on1 or left to hang down at pleasure4 ,the cloak is lined with flannel and glazed calico1 or calimanco1 it is set into a band at the neck1 of about ten nails long1 and a collar and one or more deep capes put on4 ,it fastens at the throat with a gilt or bronze chain4 ,,lady',s ,,neat ,,garden ,,or ,,servant',s ,,cloak4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,this may be made either of merino or ,scotch-plaid2 if the former1 it has three breadths in it1 of seventeen nails wide2 if the latter1 it requires five breadths1 eleven nails wide4 ,the shoulder-piece is like ,fig4 #c or #d1 ,plate #ac2 it is lined and wadded1 as are also two capes the same shape as the shoulder-piece cut larger2 the collar is like ,fig4 #g1 ,plate #ac4 ,the whole cloak is lined with black or coloured glazed calico2 arm-holes are left between the first and second breadths2 they are four nails long1 and three nails and a half from the bottom of the shoulder-piece2 a small piece of the material1 four nails long and three-quarters of a nail wide1 lined and piped all round1 is set on along each slit or arm-hole4 ,these cloaks can be purchased ready-made at the mercer's shop1 and are from #is4 to #ahs4 each4 ,,old ,,woman',s ,,cloak ,,and ,,hood4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #be1 #bg4 ,these are generally made of scarlet cloth1 or grey duffel1 and have only one breadth in them4 ,the cloth is about three yards wide1 and it is cut as follows3-- ,the width of the cloak is made in that of the material1 therefore1 when the proper length for the cloak is cut off the piece 7say one yard and eight nails71 it is doubled exactly in half the width1 and then the selvages being laid together1 they are sloped off at the top1 perhaps from four to five nails gradually to about four nails above the bottom2 the two corners in front are also rounded off at the bottom1 so that a great part of it1 as well as the two fronts are slightly on the cross1 which renders binding or hemming not absolutely necessary1 though the cloak looks much better when finished with a neat binding of scarlet or black ribbon2 the top is set into a band the proper length to go round the neck1 and a few plaits are made4 ,when two cloaks are cut out together1 which is the most economical plan1 the hoods will come out of the sloping at the neck1 but this cannot be1 if there is only one4 ,the hood is very simple1 and is thus formed4 ,cut a paper pattern of half the hood1 exactly like ,fig4 #bg1 and lay it on the cloth1 taking care that ,d is upon the doubled part of it4 ,in making it up1 it is gathered or plaited from the top1 or doubled part to ,a2 the rest to ,b1 is simply sewed up2 ,b to ,c1 is the part attached to the cloak1 and the front1 or what goes round the face1 is neatly bound with ribbon4 ,these hoods may be lined or not1 at pleasure4 ,,school ,,girl',s ,,cape ,,or ,,cloak4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,these are made of plaid or other stuff1 lined with flannel and calico1 and are good things for school girls to wear at church and elsewhere4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ---------------- #ast4 #bnd4 #crd4 #dth4 ,size ,size ,size ,size ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,nails4,nails4,nails4,nails4 ,usual width of plaid #aa #ab ,number of breadths #b #c #c #d ,depth to be cut down the selvage #h #aj #ab #ac ,collar like ,fig4 #g1 ,plate #ac1 cut according to size ---------------------------------------- ----------------- 99_/ ,the skirt of the cloak having been lined with coarse flannel and glazed calico1 and the shoulder-piece being piped all round with a pretty thick piping1 the skirt is plaited evenly to the shoulder-piece in handsome plaits1 and the flannel being laid against it1 the calico linings are neatly felled down over the plaits1 so as to hide the rough edges2 the collar1 lined also with flannel and calico1 is sewed on1 and a piece of tape or strong calico laid upon the part where it joins the shoulder-piece at the top4 ,a button is put on at the throat1 on the right hand side1 and another1 four nails below1 and small squares of plaid doubled1 with each a button-hole made in them1 put to correspond on the other side4 ,by lengthening the skirt1 this would make a very suitable cloak for a woman4 ,a more economical cloak1 of this pattern1 may be made of green baize2 without a collar1 it costs very little1 but of course it does not wear nearly so well as the plaid ones4 ,,boy',s ,,cloak4 ,a cloak or deep cape for a boy1 may be made very simply as follows3-- ,cut a large circle of cloth or plaid1 the size you wish the cloak to be1 and in the centre of it1 make a smaller circle for the neck2 cut from this small circle to the edge in a straight line1 which will form the opening in front4 ,gather or plait the neck into a broad band1 and it is completed4 ,a cloak thus made will hang in full handsome folds1 and be very warm4 ,,shawls4 ,shawls may be made of various materials1 velvet1 plush1 silk1 cloth1 duffel1 plaid1 or printed flannel1 and they may either be square or in the form of a half-handkerchief2 they are variously lined and trimmed1 according to taste and circumstances4 ,,carriage ,,or ,,dress ,,shawl4 ,this is either velvet1 plush1 or satin1 and is half a square of one yard1 twelve nails1 or less1 to suit the figure of the person1 and the width of the material4 ,it is lined with white or coloured sarsenet1 and trimmed at the edge of the two straight sides1 with a satin or silk hem1 from one to one nail and a half deep1 cut crosswise1 lace1 fringe1 or fur4 ,,lady',s ,,walking ,,shawl4 ,silk1 cloth1 or merino1 are equally appropriate for this purpose4 ,it may either be a square of one yard1 twelve nails1 or half of it1 and is lined with silk4 ,when the whole square is preferred1 and when a hem of velvet1 satin1 or silk is laid on1 care must be taken to arrange it so that when the shawl is doubled handkerchief-wise1 the hems of both folds shall be seen at the same time1 one lying nearly over the other1 for which purpose1 after laying the border on two successive sides of the square1 turn your shawl over before sewing the border of the remaining two sides on4 ,thus half the trimming is on one1 and half on the other side of the shawl4 ,these shawls1 like the one mentioned above1 may be trimmed in various ways4 ,,shawl ,,for ,a ,,member ,,of ,,the ,,society ,,of ,,friends4 ,this is a square of about one yard1 twelve nails1 and is made either of fine white1 or very pale drab1 grey1 or other quiet coloured cloth1 with a satin ribbon1 the same shade and one nail broad1 laid on all round it4 ,it may be lined or not1 according to pleasure4 ,,quilted ,,shawl4 ,this is half a square of silk of about one yard1 twelve nails1 and has a very neat appearance1 besides being both light and warm4 ,it is thus made3-- ,lay wadding1 demet1 or flannel between the outside silk and the lining1 which should be either white or some pretty suitable colour3 it must then be run in three or four rows round the edge1 and the middle quilted in diamonds1 or any other pattern1 according to taste4 ,,cashmere ,,shawl4 ,purchase a piece of coloured ,cashmere or ,indiana1 one yard1 six nails square1 to form the centre of the shawl1 and make a very narrow hem all round it2 then take shawl bordering1 or four strips of ,cashmere of some other colour1 which will harmonize1 or contrast well with the centre2 these should be from two to three nails broad1 and one yard1 twelve nails long2 they are likewise hemmed on both sides1 and then sewed to the square2 the corners are joined obliquely1 or from point to point4 ,a fringe should be set on all round4 ,this coloured border must be put on1 so that when the shawl is worn1 the two corners shall fall properly over each other1 as described in the 8,lady's ,walking ,shawl40 ,coloured gimp is sometimes laid on over the joinings4 ,,mourning ,,shawls4 ,these may be made in two ways1 according to the depth of the mourning4 ,the first and deepest kind is half a square of black silk1 entirely covered with black crape1 and lined with black sarsenet4 ,the other is also a half square of rich1 but not very bright black silk1 with a hem of crape from one to two nails deep1 laid on the two straight sides4 ,,plain ,,walking ,,shawl4 ,this may be made of plaid1 printed flannel1 or duffel1 and is suitable for ladies1 children1 and servants4 ,cut half a square of the proper size1 line it with silk1 or calico1 and run it at about one nail from the edge1 on the two straight sides1 so as to keep it flat1 and make a sort of hem3 this shawl is made to fit the neck1 for this end1 instead of hollowing it out1 run on the cross-way part in the centre1 a little string-case1 in a semi-circular form1 and by passing a ribbon through1 it is drawn up to fit the neck1 making a sort of frill or standing up collar4 ,this shawl is plaited in at the bottom of the waist1 and strings1 or a band sewed on at the inside4 ,arm-holes may also be made in it at pleasure4 ,,travelling ,,shawl4 ,a warm shawl or handkerchief for travelling1 may be made of a square of wadding doubled in half1 and covered with silk or muslin4 ,,spencers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,spencers are made of silk1 cloth1 muslin1 and print1 and are worn with low frocks1 by children1 to walk out in4 ,,plain ,,spencer4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #bh1 #bi4 ,from its simplicity1 this is suited to very young children1 as well as to school girls1 or young servants4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ---------------- #ast4 ,child of ,size4 #d years4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of the body1 cut width-wise of the material #ab #ae ,depth of ditto1 cut selvage-wise #c #c ,when doubled in four1 cut for shoulder #a #a ,depth of arm-hole #a #a ,arm-hole cut into the stuff ,width of sleeve #d #f ,length of ditto #d #f ,neck hollowed out ,length of band or collar #f #f ,depth of ditto #a #a ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ---------------- ,child of ,girl of #f years4 #ab yrs4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,nails4 ,yds4 nls4 ,length of the body1 #af #a #e cut width-wise of the material #af #a #e ,depth of ditto1 cut selvage-wise #d #e ,when doubled in four1 cut for shoulder #b #b ,depth of arm-hole #a #b ,arm-hole cut into the stuff ,width of sleeve #h #h ,length of ditto #h #aj ,neck hollowed out ,length of band or collar #h #i ,depth of ditto #a #b ---------------------------------------- -------------------- ,in making1 sew up the shoulders1 make up the sleeves1 and set them in1 a little fulled at the top4 ,make a string-case at the wrist at about half or three-quarters of a nail from the bottom of the sleeve1 which1 when drawn1 forms a frill4 ,gather it equally into the band or collar2 for stout children1 small gussets may be put in the neck4 ,it is either hemmed or set into a band at the bottom2 sometimes a frill is sewed on round the waist1 sometimes the spencer is cut one nail longer to admit of a runner being put one nail above the bottom1 so as to form a frill4 ,,dress ,,spencer4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #cj1 #ca4 ,this is a very pretty shape for ladies' children1 but as it must be cut out to fit the figure1 only one size1 for a child from two to four years old1 will be given4 ,it may be made of kerseymere1 cloth1 cambric1 or jaconet muslin4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,yds4 nls4 ,length of body1 width-way of the material #a #j ,depth of body cut down the selvage #b ,when doubled in four1 slit for the arm-hole #b ,cut into the material for the arm-hole ,for collar1 see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #ag ,for sleeves1 see ,plate #ab1 ,fig4 #a ,length of band #aj ,depth of ditto #a ,length of robing1 from the back over the shoulder to the front #ab ,smallest width of ditto ,greatest width of ditto #b ,for shoulder-piece1 see ,plate #ac1 ,fig4 #e ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,in making up1 supposing the spencer to be of cambric muslin1 sew a piece of strong insertion-work to the backs and front of the shoulder-piece1 simply hemming that part of it which goes over the shoulder2 full the body evenly into the insertion-work1 both before and behind1 leaving it perfectly plain under the arm-holes2 the sleeve is next gathered into the shoulder-piece1 and sewed plainly into the arm-hole2 the body is next fulled into the band4 ,in the band1 on each side behind1 is a little runner of about two nails from the ends1 through which a bobbin is run1 which comes out through an oylet-hole1 at about a quarter of a nail from the end2 it fastens also with a button or with hooks and eyes3 up the backs of both shoulder-pieces and body a broad hem is made1 in which are buttons and button-holes to correspond4 ,the robings are next put on1 a little fulled at the back and front1 and a good deal over the shoulders3 the robing at the back is sewed immediately below the insertion-work2 it is one nail and a half deep1 which increases to its fullest breadth over the shoulders1 and is gradually narrowed off again to the band in front4 ,the collar1 which is trimmed with neat work or a frill1 is then set on4 ,the sleeves are made and put in4 ,,tippet ,,and ,,sleeves4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #cb1 #cc1 #cd1 #ce4 ,these are very convenient for children to wear in the summer1 as they are easily put off and on4 ,they are made of jaconet or cambric muslin1 gingham1 or print1 to suit the frock4 ,to cut the front1 ,fig4 #cc1 let your paper be five nails and three-quarters long1 and three nails and three-quarters wide1 when folded in two4 ,d is the doubled part4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------- ,nails4 ,from the corner to ,l #b ,above the corner to ,t #a ,from the side to ,v ,from the top to ,v ,from the corner to ,s #a ,from ,s to ,z #a ,from ,z to ,n ------------------------------- ,curve from ,l to ,t1 again from ,t to ,v2 cut from ,v to ,s2 slope from ,s to ,n4 ,the part marked ,n1 is for the neck2 ,s ,v1 for the shoulder2 ,v ,t1 the flap or shoulder-piece4 ,for the back1 ,fig4 #ce1 let your paper be three nails wide and four nails long4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from the bottom to ,a #a ,from ,b to ,c ,from ,c to ,f #b ,leaving to ,g #a ,from ,h to ,k #a ------------------------------ ,cut from ,h to ,a2 slope from ,a to ,b2 cut from ,b to ,f2 curve from ,f to half a nail below ,g2 ,n is the neck2 ,s the shoulder4 ,for the little flap or shoulder-piece1 ,fig4 #cb1 take a piece of paper1 letting it be one nail and three-quarters long1 when doubled1 and one nail and a half deep2 at the opposite side to the doubled part1 mark the point ,a one quarter of a nail from the side1 and one-third of a nail from the bottom2 cut in a straight line from the top to ,a1 and slope gradually from ,a to the bottom4 ,in making up1 sew the shoulders of the two backs to those of the front1 set in the two shoulder-flaps1 fulling them in the middle1 gather the front into the space of one nail1 setting it into a band1 which is about one-third of a nail1 when doubled1 and nine nails long1 made to button behind2 the backs are also gathered1 and sewed to the band at each end1 at a proper distance1 say about three nails from the middle4 ,the ,plate represents the tippet as if the sides were not attached to the band1 observe1 however1 that the bottom1 ,a1 is to be sewed to the part marked ,b1 of the band4 ,on the top of the tippet is set a collar1 according to fancy2 ,fig4 #ai1 ,plate #ac1 is that generally preferred4 ,sleeves cut according to ,fig4 #a1 ,plate #ab1 are then made2 they are set into a band at the top1 and then sewed on to the fullest part or middle1 under the flap1 for the space of half a nail4 ,these tippets may be trimmed with braid1 if made of cloth or kerseymere2 when they are of muslin1 with narrow work or edging4 ,,neck ,,handkerchiefs4 ,many persons wear net or muslin handkerchiefs within their dress1 and under the collar or habit-shirt1 and for those liable to be soon heated1 or who are engaged in warm or dusty employments1 it is a particularly good plan to do so1 especially if the dress is not of a washing material1 as it keeps the body clean and nice much longer than it otherwise could be4 ,elderly persons should always wear these handkerchiefs1 as there is something delicate and cleanly in their having what will wash next the skin4 ,muslin handkerchiefs may be purchased1 woven for the purpose1 with borders1 at from about #f;d4 to #bs41 but the cheap ones are not worth buying1 they soon tear in the washing1 and look thick and cottony2 the fine ones are so costly that it is better economy to have squares of muslin cut from the piece2 these1 like the bordered ones1 may either be worn double1 or the square may be cut in two1 which most people prefer4 ,the muslin should be yard wide1 not very coarse1 nor yet extremely fine1 if wanted for common wear1 but a thin transparent muslin should be selected2 that which is called ,india book1 having a yellowish white cast1 is preferable to the blue muslins1 which are apt to look heavy and clothy when washed4 ,real ,india muslin is the best1 but it is too costly for general wear4 ,the extreme points of the half square should be cut off1 or turned up1 which is a good plan for the back1 as it makes it stronger2 and after hemming the handkerchief all round1 a tape is set on behind1 to go round the waist and tie in front4 ,for net handkerchiefs1 the best width of the net is from one yard and two nails to one yard and four nails2 it should be of a medium fineness1 not too close1 or it will lose its clearness after washing4 ,in making net handkerchiefs1 it is a good plan to run a hem of book muslin1 of about half or a quarter of a nail broad1 on the two straight sides1 which prevents the handkerchief running up in the washing2 on the cross side1 of course1 a narrow hem is made1 as the muslin would shew in the wearing1 and would look untidy4 ,the points should be cut off1 and a tape sewed on behind4 ,net handkerchiefs are1 on the whole1 more economical than muslin1 as they wear longer4 ,,pocket ,,handkerchiefs4 ,these are made of ,french cambric1 fine lawn1 ,scotch cambric1 cotton1 or silk2 the former are chiefly worn by ladies1 and the latter by gentlemen2 lawn and ,scotch cambric are used by young persons and children2 cotton handkerchiefs are confined to the working classes4 ,ladies' pocket handkerchiefs are usually eleven or twelve nails square2 they are purchased woven on purpose with borders4 ,sometimes very fine cambric may be procured eleven nails wide1 which many persons prefer to the bordered handkerchiefs2 these are often made with broad hems1 half or three-quarters of a nail deep1 and a row of open veining worked at the bottom of the hem1 or a narrow edging of lace is sewed all round4 ,cambric handkerchiefs for gentlemen are larger than those for ladies1 say fourteen or fifteen nails4 ,gentlemen's silk handkerchiefs should be of ,india silk1 and are about #es4 #f;d4 each2 they are far preferable to ,british silk1 as they are much softer1 and keep the dye to the very last4 ,british silk handkerchiefs should be dipped in gall the first time they are washed4 ,printed cotton handkerchiefs1 for poor children1 may be bought at a penny and even a halfpenny each4 ,,bridal ,,favours4 ,the customs respecting favours and bridal paraphernalia differ so much in different places1 that no general rules can be given respecting them4 ,sometimes white ribbons1 gloves1 and handkerchiefs are given1 and sometimes only the former4 ,favours for the higher orders are usually of lace1 flowers1 silver ribbon1 or cord1 and those for the middling classes1 of satin ribbon2 they are worn on the left side4 ,the usual quantity given to servants1 both men and women1 coachmen1 c4 is three yards1 which is worn as a trimming for either the cap or bonnet by the women1 and made up into very large bows for the men1 to pin on their coats4 ,,shoes ,,and ,,slippers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,no shoes will be here described but such as are soft1 and therefore easily made at home1 or those worn by children4 ,slippers may be made of velvet1 silk1 cloth1 kerseymere1 carpet1 wrap-rascal1 or frieze1 and worked canvass1 any of these materials1 together with ticking1 having a pattern worked on it1 may be used for children's shoes4 ,cut a paper pattern of half the shoe1 as follows1 according to the size required4 ,fig4 #db4 ,,scale ,,for ,,all ,,sizes4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,man4 ,woman4 ,girl of ,child of #i or #aj #e or #f yrs4 yrs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,nails4 ,length of paper #e #d #c #c ,width of ditto #b #a #a #a ,size from ,a to the bottom #a #a ,size from ,b to the bottom ,from the side to ,b ,from the corner to ,c #b #b #a #a ,from ,c to ,e #c #b #b #a ,from ,e to ,f #a #a ,from ,f to ,h #c #b #a #a ,from ,h to ,g ,from ,g to ,i a bare nl4 ,from ,f to the side ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,cut from ,i to ,a1 and again from ,a to ,b2 curve from ,b to ,c1 cut from ,f to ,h2 ,h to ,g being only a slit2 cut off from ,g to ,i2 from ,i to ,a is the doubled part4 ,,men',s ,,slippers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #db4 ,these may be made of carpet1 cloth and frieze1 or wrap-rascal4 ,in cutting them out1 the material should be doubled at ,d2 these slippers should be lined with flannel1 and either silk or cloth2 the linings are tacked to the outside1 and the three bound together all round with silk ferreting or binding2 the sole is of strong leather or pasteboard1 if the latter1 it is put between two pieces of carpeting or cloth1 as no needle is strong enough to go through it1 and the edges of these pieces being bound round1 the sole thus formed is attached to the slipper4 ,it is1 however1 better in general that men's slippers should be made by a shoe-maker1 as it is hard work for women4 ,,ladies' ,,slippers4 ,there are many neat and ornamental ways of making ladies' slippers1 or toilette shoes2 the following are the most generally approved3-- ,canvass1 worked in tent or cross-stitch1 silk1 jean1 or print quilted1 cloth1 or soft leather1 braided or embroidered4 ,care should be taken that the braid is very fine and flat2 gold or silver twist may be sewed at the edge of it1 which improves the effect very much4 ,when made up1 these slippers should be lined with flannel1 or wadding1 and silk1 and bound round with silk binding or galloon4 ,a pasteboard sole1 put between two pieces of thick cloth1 or carpet1 is bound round1 and sewed to the upper part of the shoe1 and a warm lining of flannel1 or fleecy hosiery1 put upon it1 on the inside4 ,a trimming of fur is sewed round the edge4 ,,quilted ,,slippers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,some of these are made of strong silk1 with a silk lining and soft flannel between2 they are quilted all over in vandykes1 octagons1 or diamonds4 ,some are made so as to wash1 and look very well1 if the material is of blue1 or any lively coloured print or jean4 ,they should be lined with flannel and good strong calico2 the whole is then quilted together1 with thread or coloured silk4 ,the initials of the owner may be worked in button-hole or chain-stitch1 on the top or side of the slipper2 it is slit down in the front1 for about three-quarters of a nail1 and the two sides of the slit1 as well as the whole shoe1 bound with ribbon2 purple galloon is the best1 if it suits the prints1 as it washes well4 ,a string is made to draw from about the middle of each side1 which ties in the front4 ,,ladies' ,,slippers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #dd1 #df1 #ej4 ,this slipper is in two parts1 the back and the front1 which is by some persons considered an advantage1 and it certainly enables it to be cut out with more economy4 ,fig4 #dd represents the back-piece when doubled4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---- ,nails4 ,greatest length of back-piece #f ,shortest length of ditto #f ,width of ditto #a ,depth of front-piece1 when doubled #a ,width of ditto #c ,from ,a to ,b #b ,from ,b to ,c ,from ,c to the bottom ,from ,f to the side ,from ,f to ,g #a ,from ,h to ,a ,from the bottom to ,e ---------------------------------------- ---- ,cut from ,b to ,c1 from ,c to ,e1 from ,e to ,f1 and from ,g to ,h4 ,this shoe is made like those described before1 excepting that1 being in two pieces1 the ends of the back-piece1 ,s ,s1 ,fig4 #dd1 are bound as well as the top and bottom of it1 and the corresponding parts1 ,e ,f1 of ,fig4 #df1 being bound also1 they are sewed together very securely with strong silk4 ,,travelling ,,or ,,over-,,shoes4 ,these are useful to wear on a journey1 or to put over dress shoes1 to keep the feet warm in going out to dinner1 c4 ,they are very easily made4 ,cut out the shape of the slipper 7see ,fig4 #db71 in frieze or wrap-rascal1 and also a lining of soft flannel1 and of silk2 tack the linings to the outside1 and then bind them round with silk-ferretting the colour of the wrap-rascal2 make a sole of the material1 bind it also round1 and sew them altogether2 then cut out a sole of strong millboard1 which must be covered with thick flannel1 and as this is too hard for the needle to pass through1 it must be tied down within the sole of the slipper1 by means of a halfpenny ribbon passed through holes made at the toe and heel1 which must be so contrived as to secure it effectually4 ,,lady ,,or ,,gentleman',s ,,half ,,slipper4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #de4 ,there is also a manner of making a slipper by merely sewing on a front to a sole1 and leaving it without any back-piece at all1 as shewn in the ,plate4 ,,carriage ,,slippers4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #di4 ,these are particularly desirable for invalids1 especially on long journies4 ,they consist of a mat1 or small rug1 either of sheep-skin1 or worked in rug stitch2 upon this are sewed two large morocco shoes1 without soles1 which are lined with soft flannel1 or fleecy hosiery1 and trimmed round the top with fur1 the rug itself acting as soles to the slippers1 which should be large enough to admit of any person's foot4 ,,baby',s ,,first ,,shoes4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ea1 #eb1 #ec1 #ed4 ,these look very well made of crimson cloth1 with soles of black cloth1 or they may be of silk or satin1 quilted4 ,the shoe is in two parts1 each of which is lined with flannel1 and bound with crimson ribbon1 which is stitched on very neatly2 between the cloth and the flannel of the sole1 is laid one of pliable leather1 to give it a little firmness4 ,the front part1 ,fig4 #ea1 is first sewed on to the sole 7see ,fig4 #ed71 after which1 the back1 ,fig4 #eb1 is put on1 and being so cut as to overlap the front1 oylet-holes are made at ,a1 ,fig4 #ed1 and at ,e1 ,fig4 #eb1 through which a ribbon is passed1 which serves at once to tie the shoe1 and to keep the front and back of it together2 the sides not being sewed up at all4 ,,baby',s ,,second ,,shoes4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,this is made of soft velveteen1 strong jean1 or thick cloth1 lined with fine calico4 ,it is cut all in one piece1 as follows3--let your paper for the pattern be two nails and a half long1 and one deep4 ,,scale4 ------------------------------ ,nails4 ,from the top to ,a ,from the side to ,a ,from the bottom to ,b ,from the corner to ,c ,from the bottom to ,e ,from the side to ,e ,from the top to ,f ,from ,h to ,g #a ------------------------------ ,lay ,b ,a1 which is the folded part1 on a double piece of the material4 ,cut from ,f to ,g1 slope from ,g to ,e1 curve from ,e to ,a1 round from ,c to ,b1 cut from ,b to ,a4 ,this shoe should be bound with ribbon2 it looks pretty made of drab or grey1 and bound with blue or rose colour4 ,a little bow is put on in front1 and strings are sewed to the ends of the straps1 or passed through oylet-holes made in them1 to tie round the ankle1 and thus keep the shoe in its place4 ,,baby',s ,,ticking ,,shoe4 ,,plate #bj4 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,this is also in one piece1 and makes a pretty variety1 it is cut according to the scale given before1 and care must be taken in the cutting out to place the ticking on the pattern1 so that the stripes lie properly1 i4 e4 straight from the middle or front of the shoe1 to the toe4 ,the ticking is then ornamented by being worked in the intervals between the dark stripes1 either in herring-bone1 or some other fancy stitch1 in coloured netting silk1 either in one colour1 or in two well chosen contrasts1 as blue and brown1 crimson and dark green4 ,it is then lined all through1 bound with ribbon to suit the work1 and sewed up behind4 ,the sole is of thick but flexible leather1 lined and bound4 ,oylet-holes are made on each side of the slit in the front1 through which a ribbon is laced1 to tie it up1 and a bow put on at the top of the slit1 completes it4 ,,on ,,covering ,,shoes4 ,it is sometimes very good economy to cover white or light coloured silk or satin shoes1 but it requires great exactness1 both in the fitting and sewing the new cover on2 black silk or satin is generally found to answer the best1 as from its dark colour any inaccuracies are less likely to be observed4 ,the quantity required for covering a full sized pair of lady's shoes is six nails1 cut the straight way4 ,lay a piece of soft paper upon your shoe1 and cut an exact pattern1 divided of course in two parts1 the front and the back4 ,place the pattern upon your satin or silk1 so that the material lies the straight way1 and so as to economize the satin4 ,the shoes must be first well rubbed and cleaned with a cloth2 the binding should1 if possible1 be picked off1 and every little crack or thin place neatly darned4 ,when you put the satin on the shoe1 begin with the front1 and be careful that it lies perfectly straight and even1 pin it with small pins very near together1 all round the front1 next to the sole1 keeping your hand in the shoe1 so as to fill it out1 almost as when the foot is in it2 whip or sew it over at the inside round the edge1 with a tacking thread1 and pretty close stitches2 then with a stout needle and strong but not coarse black silk1 sew the satin to the shoe1 as close to the sole as possible1 with small neat stitches1 taking very great care not to draw or confine it in any part1 for fear of hurting the foot1 and trying it on from time to time1 to make sure4 ,the back is done in a similar manner1 and then a ribbon is laid on up the sides1 where the front and back join1 and double stitched4 ,the binding is next put on1 this must also be neatly back-stitched1 and is broad enough to conceal the tacking1 or sewing-over threads2 you must observe not to hold it in too much1 or all your work is wasted2 for if the binding is tight1 the shoes can never be worn4 ,small bows and strings complete the whole4 ,shoes that have been wetted by sea water1 should be washed with soap and water1 which prevents their spoiling4 ,for cleaning white satin shoes1 see ,receipt1 ,no4 #da4 ,patent leather shoes should be well rubbed with oil outside1 to clean them1 and prevent their cracking4 ,the soles of shoes should be cut straight-wise1 as when cut on the cross1 they will crack4 ,,gloves4 ,the chief kinds are kid1 doe-skin1 ,berlin1 ,woodstock1 and ,limerick4 ,the principal manufactures for the former kinds1 are at ,worcester1 ,dundee1 and ,jersey2 the latter take their names from the places where they are made4 ,french gloves are by some preferred to the ,english make1 as they are considered to be more elastic4 ,the ,berlin gloves look like ,woodstock1 and wash and wear beautifully2 a little pearl ash in the water makes them look as well as new4 ,others are made of cotton1 silk1 and worsted1 and woven1 net1 or knit2 for the latter1 see 8,knit ,gloves40 ,cotton gloves are worn by men servants when waiting at table1 and are very good for the purpose1 as they are easily washed4 ,it is impossible to give any shapes or scales for gloves2 the best plan to get an exact pattern is to pick an old glove to pieces1 and cut out by it4 ,gloves are sewed with a peculiar kind of silk1 prepared on purpose1 which is finer and less twisted than ordinary sewing silk2 it is between floss and round silk4 ,the needles are small1 very sharp1 and three-sided towards the point4 ,for cleaning gloves1 see ,receipt1 ,no4 #dj1 #de4 ,,on ,,down ,,and ,,fur4 ,as it may be a matter of economy to some persons1 especially to those who live in the country1 to understand something of the making up1 cleaning1 and keeping of down and fur1 such hints as are essential to those not regularly employed in the business1 are given in the following pages4 ,,down4 ,the down of the swan1 from its high price1 is rarely used2 as it is not plucked from the skin1 there is little to be said about it1 excepting that1 after being well cleaned1 the skin is cut into strips or squares of the size required1 and at once sewed upon the article to be trimmed or ornamented4 ,christmas is the prime season for goose down1 and a great difference is made in the waste1 if it is gathered out of season1 when there will probably be a mass of pen feathers1 or new quills1 growing under the breast1 which must all be picked out1 before the down can be got at1 which of course adds much to the trouble and expense4 ,that down which lies under the wings has no quill1 therefore it cannot be sewed at all1 but is kept for stuffing cushions1 coverlets1 c4 ,down should be kept in paper bags or boxes1 in a very dry place2 damp spoils it4 ,a little while before it is used1 it should be laid in paper bags before the fire1 to lighten or separate it4 ,for sewing on down1 to be used as trimmings1 c41 the following instructions should be attended to4 ,choose a small empty room1 with as few drafts of air as possible in it2 wear a black silk pinafore or apron1 and have a silk cover1 or old apron on the table1 to prevent the down adhering to it1 or to the dress4 ,begin by sorting your down into a box1 keeping the refuse1 or that without quills1 in another box or bag by itself2 in sorting it1 draw a handful out of the bag1 holding it fast in the palm of the hand1 pulling it out piece by piece1 by which means there is little waste2 the hands of the workwoman should be very clean and cool4 ,when all those pieces which have quills to them have been carefully picked out1 lay them in pairs upon the table4 ,cut your strip of calico to the proper size1 whether for a boa or muff1 it must be the straight way4 ,pin the calico1 beyond the part where you are going to work1 to your waist or dress1 and have some strong thread in your needle2 double your calico in regular rows or creases1 rather less than one quarter of a nail apart2 then begin to sew the down upon the first crease or fold1 pass your needle through the ends of two of the small quilled pieces1 which you must hold in your hand1 push them down upon the calico1 and sew three stitches strongly upon them1 taking care not to pull the thread too tight1 or it will not wash well2 then take another stitch1 a little further on the line1 before beginning with the next piece of down4 ,when the row is finished1 go on to the next line marked on the calico1 keeping that already done1 next to you1 so as to lie inside1 or under your hand4 ,observe1 that for a boa1 the rows of down go width-wise of the calico1 while for a muff1 the rows must be in a downward direction or round it2 in short it should always be sewed in that way which will make it shew to the best advantage when made up1 and so as to conceal the rows of sewing4 ,upon an average1 six ounces of down will make a boa1 with nearly three ounces waste4 ,the best goose down is about #bs4 an ounce2 it chiefly comes from ,lincolnshire4 ,turkey down is also at its prime at ,christmas1 and is sometimes used for cuffs1 neck-ruffs1 or operas1 and other small articles4 ,,imitation ,,ermine4 ,sew tails of false black sable into white ,spanish rabbit skin1 cut a little ,v and let the tail in1 covering it over with the flap1 and sewing the tail firmly in4 ,the following is a list of the furs in general use3-- ,sable1 which is black and brown4 ,ermine1 black and white4 ,chincilla1 greyish blue4 ,bear1 black1 brown1 and ,isabella4 ,otter4 ,fox1 black1 brown1 and white or ,arctic4 ,wolf1 yellow or sandy4 ,wolverine4 ,lynx1 black4 ,squirrel1 brown1 or silver1 which is also called ,minever4 ,racoon4 ,fitch1 brown4 ,weazel4 ,rat1 ,norwegian or ,russian4 ,rabbit4 ,martin4 ,cat4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,muff4 ,a full sized muff is about nine nails wide1 and fourteen nails long1 before it is sewed up4 ,to make a foundation for a muff1 lay a piece of ,jersey on the table1 and upon it a layer of curled horse-hair1 next a sheet of wadding1 roll it round1 and sew it up the proper size1 put it inside the muff and tack round the edge at each end1 then make the lining1 slip it in neatly and fasten it4 ,one yard and a quarter of silk will line a full sized muff4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,boa4 ,after sewing the down on the calico1 as before directed1 or the skins of fur together1 turn it to the wrong side1 and sew the seam up neatly and strongly1 turning it out to the right side as you go on1 then fill it with ,jersey to a proper thickness4 ,the usual length of a boa1 is from two yards and three-quarters to three yards4 ,,to ,,make ,a ,,tippet4 ,a tippet is lined with flannel and wadding between the silk and the fur4 ,,to ,,make ,,an ,,opera1 ,,or ,,ruff4 ,this is lined with flannel and wadding1 within the silk lining4 ,fur is always cut at the back1 with a knife and rule4 ,,to ,,clean ,,fur4 ,unpick the seam1 but not the skins4 ,place it on a large deal table1 and tack it slightly down with small nails4 ,pound white ,french chalk1 add some bran to it1 and keep rubbing it on with the hand and a clean flannel very hard backwards and forwards1 take it out with a brush1 and when done1 shake it well4 ,when a grub or moth is in the fur1 put it in a stove hot enough to bear the hand4 ,,to ,,clean ,,down4 ,open the seam1 and wash with white soap and warm water2 shake it before a gentle fire till dry4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,fur ,with respect to keeping furs1 it is well to bear in mind the old adage that 8,a little neglect may breed a great mischief30 great care should be taken to preserve them free from moths and damp2 the following are the best methods of doing so3-- ,on laying furs by for the summer1 they should be put into brown paper bags1 with clean hops scattered over them1 and once or twice during the season1 they should be exposed to the air and well combed or shaken1 or they may be put away in tin boxes1 or sewed up in strong linen2 pepper1 ,russia leather1 or a piece of mould candle are very good preservatives against moths1 when put in the box or bag with the fur4 ,when fur has been wetted1 it should not be wiped1 but only shaken1 and laid in the sun or a warm room till dry4 ,the best method of cleaning or preserving fur1 is by washing the skin with a solution of corrosive sublimate in as much spirits of wine as will dissolve it1 and gently shaking it1 dry near but not close to a fire4 ,after this process has been gone through1 the moth will not touch it1 but it requires care1 as corrosive sublimate is a strong poison4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,house ,,linen4 ,house linen appears to be a branch of domestic economy little understood and considered1 in comparison with its importance4 ,many persons are little aware how much the good washing and wearing of their house linen depends on the choice and adaption of it to the purposes for which it is intended1 as well as of the different methods of cutting and making it up1 so as to have a handsome appearance1 with due attention to economy4 ,the following suggestions1 though not adopted in all families1 may1 it is hoped1 prove useful to some4 ,house linen may be classed under four heads1 namely1 bed-room linen1 table and pantry linen1 housemaid's linen1 and kitchen linen1 to which may be added stable linen4 ,the following is a general table of all the linen necessary in a gentleman's house1 together with the price1 width1 and quality4 ,each article will afterwards be entered upon at large4 ,,bed-,,room ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,number ,kind of ,linen4 ,length4 ,width4 ,price4 required4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,yds nls,yds nls ,best sheets1 double bed,fine linen #d #j #c #j #hs4 to #fs4 #f;d4 ,family sheets1 double bed,coarser linen #c #h #b #j #ds4 to #es4 #i;d4 ,calico sheets1 double bed,fine strong calico #c #j #b #j #cs4 or #bb;d4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,servant's linen sheets1 double bed,stout unbleached linen #c #j #b #j #bs4 #f;d4 to #ds4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,from three ,best sheets1 single bed,fine linen #b #j #b #j #cs4 to #es4 sheets to two ,family sheets1 single bed,coarser linen #b #j #b #j #cs4 to #ds4 pairs to each ,calico sheets1 single bed,fine strong calico #b #j #b #j #bj;d4 bed4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,servant's sheets1 single bed,stout unbleached ditto #b #j #b #j #aj;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- -- ,ditto1 ditto ,ditto #b #j #a #j #d;d4 to #h;d4 ,crib sheets ,fine calico or linen #b #j #a #j #as4 ,cradle sheets ,fine calico #a #j #a #j #as4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- #ai nls4 before ,best pillow cases ,finest linen #a #j sew'd #cs4 ,two to each ,family pillow cases ,fine linen #a #j #ai #bs4 pillow4 ,calico pillow cases ,fine calico #a #j #ai #ad;d4 ,servant's pillow cases ,soft strong linen #a #j #aa;d4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,best fine towels ,finest pinafore diaper #a #j #ab #bj;d4 ,from six to ,family fine towels ,fine check diaper #a #j #ab #as4 #f;d4 twelve towels ,best coarse towels ,fine huckaback #a #j #ab #as4 #d;d4 each washing ,family coarse towels ,coarser huckaback #a #j #aa #as4 #b;d4 stand4 ,servant's towels ,coarse huckaback #a #j #aa #as4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,two to each or three to ,toilet table covers ,diaper or quilting #cs4 two toilets4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,two to each ,pincushion covers ,dimity or muslin toilet4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- ---------------- ,,table ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - ,number ,kind of required4 ,linen4 ,length4 ,width4 ,price4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - ,yds nls,yds nls ,breakfast cloth ,damask #a #j #a #j #cs4 #f;d4 to #fs4 ,ditto ,ditto #a #j #a #j #ds4 to #hs4 #h or #aj ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,ditto1 large size1 or small ,ditto #a #j #a #j #fs4 to #abs4 dinner cloth ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,ditto square ,ditto #b #j #b #j #hs4 to #bjs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - ,common table cloth ,ditto #b #j #b #j #ajs4 to #bes4 ,table cloth ,ditto #c #j #b #j #ahs4 to #djs4 #h to #aj ,ditto ,ditto #c #j #b #j #bas4 to #fjs4 ,ditto ,ditto #d #j #b #j #cjs4 to #djs4 ,ditto ,ditto #e #j #b #j #hjs4 to #abjs4 ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,largest size ,fine ,damask #h #j #b #j #hjs4 to #afjs4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - ,table linen in the piece1 per yard ,damask #a #j #bs4 #i;d4 to #ds4 #a to #c ---------------------------------------- ----------------------------- ,ditto ,ditto #a #j #cs4 #f;d4 to #es4 #f;d4 ,ditto ,ditto #b #j #ds4 #f;d4 to #ajs4 ,ditto ,ditto #b #j #fs4 to #abs4 ,ditto ,diaper #a #j #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 #f;d4 ,ditto ,ditto #a #j #bs4 to #cs4 ,ditto ,ditto #b #j #bs4 #f;d4 to #cs4 #f;d4 ,ditto ,ditto #b #j #cs4 #f;d4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - #c to #f doz4 ,dinner napkins ,fine #ad #ahs4 to #fjs4 ,damask per dozen4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - #c to #f doz4 ,breakfast napkins ,damask #ab #abs4 to #bds4 per dozen4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - #c to #f doz4 ,doyleys ,white or #f ,square #fs4 to #abs4 coloured do4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - #f to #ab doz4 ,large tray cloths,damask or #a #f #b #f diaper #a #f #b #f prices too variable #f to #ab doz4 ,small ditto ,ditto #a #c #ac to notify4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------- - ,,pantry ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,number required4 ---------------- ,kind of ,linen4 ,length4 ,width4 ,price4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,yds nls,yds nls #f to #ab,knife-box cloths ,linen #f #f #g;d4 per yd #f to #ab,pantry knife cloths ,coarse linen #h #h #g;d4 ditto ,pantry dresser cloths,coarse diaper #aa #i;d4 ditto #c ,plate-basket cloths ,linen #aa;d4 ditto #ab to #bd;,china cloths ,soft linen or diaper #a #j #j #aa;d4 ditto #ab to #bd;,glass cloths ,soft fine linen #j #j #aa;d4 ditto ,lamp cloths ,linen and silk #j #j ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- #d to #f ,aprons ,leather and ,see linen aprons ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- #f pr4 ,waiting gloves ,cotton wove #as4 per pr4 upwards ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,housemaid',s ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,number required4 ---------------- ,kind of ,linen4,length4 ,width4 ,price4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,yds nls,yds nls #ab to #cf ,house dusters ,linen #a #j #ab #as4 per yd ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #b ,scouring ,coarse #j #ad #g;d4 ditto flannels flannels ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #f to #ab ,paint cloths ,soft old linen #j #ab ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #f ,chamber bottle,linen #j #ab #i;d4 ditto cloths ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #f ,chamber bucket,checked blue or #a #j #ab #i;d4 ditto lilac linen ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #d to #h ,clothes bags ,calico or linen #h;d4 ditto ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ #b to each,pinafores ,see pinafores ,pl4 #af4 maid ,fig4 #h4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------------ ,,kitchen ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,no4 required ---------------- ,kind of ,linen ,length4 ,width4 ,price4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,yds4 nls4,yds nls #f to #ab,table cloths ,coarse diaper#b or #c yds #b #j at #bs4 #f;d4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #d to #ab;,dresser cloths,diaper or #aa at #bj;d4 huckaback ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #f to #ab;,cooking cloths,huckaback #c #j #ab at #as4 #f to #ab,roller towels ,ditto #d #j #aa at #as4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #ab to #bd;,dusters ,blue linen #a #j #ab at #aa;d4 check ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #bd to #cf,tea cloths ,soft linen #ab #ab at #as4 #a;d4 #bd to #cf,knife cloths ,linen #h #h at #as4 #f to #ab,pudding cloths,old linen #ab #ab #b ,jelly bags ,flannel at #as4 #d;d4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,ham and bacon ,brown earn at #as4 bags ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- #f to #ab;,cheese cloths ,canvass or #ab #h at #h;d4 cheese cloth ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ,,stable ,,linen4 ,,scale4 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ---------------- ,kind of ,linen4 ,length4 ,width4 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,nails4 ,nails4 ,carriage cloths ,soft linen #ab #ab ,paint ditto ,old silk ,flannels ,soft but coarse ,saddle-cases ,see 8,cases0 ---------------------------------------- ----------- ,illustration3 ,,plate #ba ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #g #aa ,fig4 #af #ag ,fig4 #h #ab #i #ac #ah #aj #ad #ai #ba #bc #bd #bf #bh #ca #cd #cg #ae #be #bg #cb #ce #ch #dj #da #db #bb #bi #cj #cc #cf #ci #dc #dd #de #df #dg #dh #di #ej #ea #eb #eh #ei #fj #ec #ed #ee #ef #eg #fa #ff #fd #fe #fb #fc #fg ,,sheets4 ,these are of different sizes and qualities1 which are regulated by the size of the bed1 and other circumstances4 ,gentleman's families generally have three and sometimes more qualities of sheeting4 ,the finest and best for the spare beds2 the second quality for the general use of the family2 and the third1 of a commoner kind for servants2 where there are several children1 it is good economy to have bed-linen of an intermediate quality1 for their use4 ,for those families who are in the habit of going periodically to the sea-side1 it is a good plan to have calico sheets for the express purpose1 for several reasons2 in the first place1 they take much less room than the linen in packing2 secondly1 if lost during the journey1 they1 not being of such value as linen1 it will not be of so much importance2 and thirdly1 as very indifferent washerwomen are usually met with at watering or sea-bathing places1 it would be a pity that linen sheets should run the risk of being badly washed or discoloured4 ,invalids1 infants1 and young children should have sheets and pillow cases of fine calico1 as they are warmer and considered more wholesome1 especially in hot weather1 when persons are liable to perspire4 ,sheets should1 if possible1 be of such a width as to avoid a seam in the middle1 but they seldom can be procured of more than two yards and three-quarters wide1 which size1 though wide enough for a good double family bed1 is still rather within that usually adopted for spare beds4 ,in making up1 if they are in two breadths1 sew them together firmly1 but with neat small stitches1 the ends are turned down1 as if for hemming1 but they are sewed in the same manner as the tops of shifts4 ,sheets should be marked at the corner with the initials of the master of the house alone1 or with those of the master and mistress1 with the set to which it belongs1 the number and the date1 for instance3-- ,h4 ,m4 ,s4 ,f4 #d 44#ch ,signifies ,henry and ,mary ,saville1 family sheets1 the #dth pair1 #ahch4 ,b may be put for the best sheets1 ,f for family1 ,s for servants4 ,the stock of sheets should depend on the number of beds1 allowing1 upon an average1 either three sheets or two pair for each bed4 ,when worn in the middle1 sheets should be turned1 that is1 unpicked down the seam1 and the two outer selvages sewn together1 so that the inner selvages thus become the outer1 and the sheet is equally worn4 ,best sheeting1 four yards wide1 costs per yard #fs4 #f;d4 to #hs4 ,ditto1 three yards wide1 costs per yard #es4 #c;d4 ,second best sheeting1 four yards wide1 costs per yard #ds4 #f;d4 to #es4 ,ditto1 three yards wide1 costs per yard #bs4 #i;d4 to #ds4 ,servants' common1 one yard wide1 costs per yard #h;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ,ditto1 two yards wide1 costs per yard #as4 #f;d4 to #bs4 ,ditto1 two yards and a quarter wide1 costs per yard #bs4 to #cs4 ,ditto1 two yards and a half wide1 costs per yard #bs4 #f;d4 to #ds4 ,servants' common sheeting1 two yards and three quarters wide1 costs #cs4 to #es4 ,ditto1 three yards wide1 costs per yard #ds4 to #gs4 #f;d4 ,fine calico1 two yards wide1 costs per yard #as4 #h;d4 to #bs4 #c;d4 ,ditto1 one yard and a half wide1 costs per yard #as4 #b;d4 to #as4 #h;d4 ,unbleached calico1 one yard wide1 costs per yard #d;d4 to #h;d4 ,ditto1 wide width1 costs per yard #aj;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ,there is a common kind of calico sold in the piece1 or whole sheet1 for the poor1 which is both warm and cheap4 ,,pillow ,,cases ,,or ,,slips4 ,these are made of fine linen for the best1 and of coarser linen and calico for the family and servants' use4 ,procure your material of a width which corresponds with the length of the pillow2 cut it one yard and three nails down the selvage4 ,fold the piece in half its length and sew it up2 one end is also sewed up to form the bottom2 at the other end1 a broad hem is made1 say half a nail wide1 and strings or buttons sewed on to fasten in the pillow4 ,it is a good plan1 followed by some managing housekeepers1 to cover the pillows with linen or calico1 which is slightly sewed on1 and the pillow cover is slipped over it4 ,the advantage gained is1 that it makes the pillow case look particularly white1 and as it is of no consequence whether it is of linen or calico1 the first cover may be made of any old pieces of either that happen to be in the house4 ,the stock of pillow cases must depend on the number of pillows to each bed2 some beds have four belonging to them1 while others have only two2 each pillow in daily use1 should have two slips belonging to it1 and spare beds might have a cover to each pillow1 and half the number besides1 for the washing4 ,in addition to the full sized pillows1 some persons have small ones made of down1 five or six nails square2 they are a great comfort to those who are in delicate health1 or who suffer from cold4 ,,towels4 ,these are always a yard long1 and eleven or twelve nails wide2 they may be bought singly1 with fringe at the edges1 or in the piece1 in which case the ends are sewed1 or very strongly hemmed4 ,nursery or school towels have sometimes loops sewed to the ends by which they may be hung to the wall4 ,best towels are made of fine diaper1 similar to that used for pinafores1 and fine huckaback4 ,the second quality is of diaper1 of a different pattern1 and rather a coarser huckaback4 ,servants' towels are of coarse huckaback4 ,the stock of towels should depend upon circumstances1 such as the frequency or otherwise of washing2 but upon an average1 from six to twelve should be allowed to each washing stand4 ,,dressing-,,table ,,covers4 ,these are of various kinds2 sometimes merely a piece of diaper of the proper size is used1 at others1 a kind of ,marseilles quilting made on purpose1 and muslin or dimity1 trimmed with fringe or frills4 ,much depends on the shape of the toilet table2 some have merely the cover laid on the top1 others are bordered along the sides and front with frills or work4 ,some persons have merely a piece of oil-cloth1 the proper size1 and bound with ribbon round the edge1 upon their dressing-tables and washing-stands they look neat and are very durable4 ,,pincushions4 ,for these and their cover1 see 8,pincushions40 ,one cushion and two covers should belong to each toilet table4 ,,table ,,cloths4 ,these vary in quality1 according to circumstances4 ,the finest are the most expensive1 and are only used for company4 ,the price varies not only with the size1 but also with the pattern4 ,the material of which they are made is called damask1 and may be purchased up to a certain size in single table cloths1 after which it must be bought in the piece4 ,care should be taken in choosing a table cloth1 to see that the edges are even1 and the threads regular4 ,,dinner ,,napkins4 ,these are also made of damask1 and vary in quality and price1 according to the pattern4 ,the best are from #ejs4 to #fjs4 per dozen4 ,the second quality from #ahs4 to #des4 per dozen4 ,dinner napkins are folded in various ways1 and are generally put upon the plate1 enclosing the roll or bread4 ,the following modes are those usually adopted4 ,,the ,,half-,,pyramid ,,shape4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aj4 #ast4 ,take the cloth as it comes from the wash1 and open the square length-wise1 drawing the folded napkin to its fullest extent4 #bnd4 ,turn up the ends to meet in the centre4 ,fig4 #g4 #crd4 ,turn the napkin thus folded1 so that the turned up ends are below1 or underneath4 #dth4 ,turn up each corner1 half-handkerchief-wise1 towards the centre4 ,fig4 #h4 #eth4 ,turn the cloth again the other side uppermost1 and again turn the corners up to the centre4 ,fig4 #i4 #fth4 ,take hold of the corners1 ,a ,b1 and by drawing them under1 make the napkin stand on its end1 so that ,c stands up1 and the cloth is supported by ,a ,b ,d4 ,the bread is within the hollow1 or between the folds thus formed4 ,,the ,,diamond ,,shape4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #g1 #h1 #i1 #aa1 #ag4 #ast4 ,open the square length-wise1 drawing out the napkin to its full length4 #bnd4 ,fold the ends to meet in the centre4 ,fig4 #g4 #crd4 ,turn up each corner1 half-handkerchief-wise1 towards the centre4 ,fig4 #h4 #dth4 ,turn down the corners towards the centre4 ,fig4 #aa4 #eth4 ,turn the cloth entirely over1 and it is ready4 ,fig4 #i4 ,the bread is put in the mouth of the napkin1 which should be turned on the plate towards the person4 ,fig4 #ag4 ,,another ,,mode4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ab1 #ac1 #ad1 #ae1 #ah1 #ai4 #ast4 ,open the napkin length-wise4 #bnd4 ,fold it down from the centre1 half-handkerchief-wise1 at the centre1 leaving two long ends4 ,fig4 #ab1 #ah4 #crd4 ,take the right hand piece1 and draw it over towards the left hand1 making the point1 ,b1 lie upon the point1 ,a1 thus forming a second half-handkerchief1 ,fig4 #ac2 turn the end back towards the right from the centre1 fold it back again in several neat straight folds towards the centre1 ,fig4 #ai2 do the same with the left hand piece1 ,fig4 #ad1 turn the napkin1 and it resembles a diamond on a square1 ,fig4 #ae4 ,napkins are often used to lay under fish1 pastry1 or sweet things1 in which case1 they may be folded in the shape of a diamond1 or else the whole napkin1 being first laid open1 is plaited in regular and very small folds till reduced to the proper width2 it is then doubled down a little at each end to secure the folds1 and to make it fit the dish1 ,fig4 #af4 ,,doyleys4 ,these may be either white or coloured1 and are sometimes open1 of six nails square2 they are generally fringed4 ,the best linen doyleys are about #aas4 #f;d4 per dozen4 ,the second linen quality1 #hs4 per dozen4 ,the common sort or cotton1 #ds4 to #es4 #c;d4 per dozen4 ,,knife-,,box ,,cloths4 ,these are used to lay in the knife boxes1 to prevent their being creased1 and should be of thick but soft linen4 ,,pantry ,,knife ,,cloths4 ,these are for wiping knives and forks with1 when cleaning them2 they should be of common but strong material4 ,,pantry ,,dresser ,,cloths4 ,these are useful and neat in appearance2 they save the paint of the dresser from being scratched4 ,the length and width must of course depend on that of the dresser4 ,they are made of coarse damask1 or tolerably fine huckaback4 ,,plate-,,basket ,,cloths4 ,this is a sort of bag to place within the plate-basket1 in order to prevent the sides being greased by the plates1 which would cause it to smell disagreeably4 ,these bags are made of linen and fit the basket2 a circle is cut the size of the bottom1 and the sides are equally well fitted1 and sewed to it2 these sides are made to hang over outside the basket1 a sufficient depth to allow it either to have a tape run through the hem1 to draw it round under the rim1 or it should have slits to fit over the handles1 by which it is secured tolerably firmly to the basket4 ,,pantry ,,china ,,cloths4 ,these are used for washing and wiping china1 they should be of a soft and rather thin material1 as linen or diaper4 ,,pantry ,,glass ,,cloths4 ,these are used for glass1 and should be as thin1 or thinner than the china cloths4 ,old silk handkerchiefs are sometimes allowed in addition1 to give the finishing polish to glass4 ,,pantry ,,lamp ,,cloths4 ,these are for cleaning lamps and candlesticks1 and are of flannel1 linen1 and silk4 ,,pantry ,,aprons4 ,are worn by men servants1 whilst at their work2 for a description of them1 see 8,aprons40 ,,waiting ,,gloves4 ,these should belong to the pantry linen1 as they give a clean appearance1 and are particularly desirable for coachmen1 and out-of-door servants1 who are occasionally required to wait at table4 ,these gloves are of woven cotton1 and should be marked with their number1 c4 ,,housemaid',s ,,linen4 ,,dusters4 ,these are used for dusting furniture1 c42 they should be of strong and good quality2 linen is generally used1 though some persons have a kind of blue cotton check1 but it wears badly1 and therefore1 though cheap1 is bad economy in the end4 ,,scouring ,,flannels4 ,these should be made of strong coarse flannel1 not of a very open texture1 or they wear out soon4 ,as they do not last long1 it is of no use to mark them further than by over-casting them with different coloured worsteds1 to prevent the edges becoming ragged1 and to distinguish the kitchen ones from those used up stairs4 ,,paint ,,cloths4 ,these should be of old soft linen1 as1 if they are new and hard1 they are apt to scratch the paint4 ,,chamber ,,bottle ,,cloths4 ,are used for wiping the jugs1 glasses1 and basins2 they should be soft and not too thick4 ,,chamber ,,bucket ,,cloths4 ,these are for the slop-bucket1 and should be of a different colour and pattern to any other1 for fear of getting them mixed1 and employed for other uses4 ,blue or lilac checks or stripes are good for the purpose4 ,,clothes ,,bags4 ,the size of these must depend entirely upon the use for which they are destined4 ,they are generally made of linen1 especially when large4 ,the largest size is two yards long1 of two breadths before sewed up2 the small ones1 two yards long1 of one breadth before sewed up4 ,,pinafores4 ,these are worn by servants while making beds1 as1 after emptying slops1 cleaning grates1 dusting rooms1 c41 the clothes are apt to soil the bed-linen1 which is very unpleasant and untidy4 ,,kitchen ,,linen4 ,,table ,,cloths4 ,these should be made of coarse and often unbleached diaper2 the size must depend on the number of servants1 or rather on the length of the table4 ,,dresser ,,cloths4 ,these are laid on the dressers and cooking tables1 and are of huckaback or coarse diaper2 they should be merely the width of the dresser1 and long enough to fall over a little at each end4 ,,roller ,,cloths4 ,these are very useful1 and are fastened upon rollers fixed against the kitchen doors or walls4 ,they are one breadth1 and four yards long1 the ends being sewed together2 they are put upon the roller1 and are used by servants after washing their hands in the kitchen4 ,,kitchen ,,dusters are made of strong cloth2 often of blue linen check4 ,,kitchen ,,tea ,,cloths are of thin linen1 and used for wiping tea things1 c4 ,,kitchen ,,knife ,,cloths are made of any common old linen1 used for wiping the knives and forks4 ,,pudding ,,cloths4 ,as these are liable to be stained1 they should be made of old towels or other coarse linen4 ,,jelly ,,bags4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,these are made of flannel1 and are in the shape of a half handkerchief cut from the square of a yard1 the sides being sewed together1 it resembles a reversed sugar loaf4 ,the top is hemmed and has three loops sewed to it1 which loop on to the corners of a frame which is made on purpose4 ,,ham ,,bags4 ,these are made of earn1 strong canvass or sacking1 and are made of the same shape as a ham1 or else are square1 as a common bag2 if the former is preferred1 the wide end or mouth is hemmed1 and has strings drawn through it1 so that when the ham is put in1 the bag is drawn up and hung up by them to the hooks in the ceiling4 ,bacon is also put into bags1 which must be open at the long side1 with an ample space to admit of the bacon being put in4 ,,cheese ,,cloths4 ,these are made of a material usually called in the shops 8cheese cloth02 it is a kind of thin canvass4 ,,stable ,,linen4 ,no remarks are necessary under this head1 excepting as respects saddle-cases1 which should be furnished always for ladies' saddles1 as they are liable to be moth-eaten1 being stuffed4 ,they should be of linen or brown ,holland1 like a bag1 cut out a little to the shape of the saddle they are to contain4 ,harness should always be hung against matting or drugget1 instead of against the naked wall2 those parts of the harness not in general use1 may also be put in bags4 ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,linen4 ,house linen should be purchased of various patterns1 according to the use for which it is intended1 and a great difference should be made between kitchen1 housemaid's and pantry linen1 so that they may not easily be mixed1 for servants frequently forget to look at the marks1 and the tea cloths should be easily distinguishable from the glass or china cloths4 ,house linen should be marked very clearly and fully for this purpose2 ink is better than silk3 it is well to mark all pantry things ,p1 kitchen ,k1 house ,h1 and stable ,s1 but the use should be more fully marked1 thus 8,p china cloth10 or 8,k duster10 is not at all more than is useful4 ,plate #ba1 ,fig4 #e1 is a drawing of a very convenient linen press1 being a kind of bin or chest1 to contain dirty linen1 placed between two cupboards1 three feet wide and twenty inches deep1 and from six to seven feet high4 ,the doors of these cupboards may be in two parts1 if preferred to one1 so that the pantry linen may be divided from the kitchen on the one side1 and the housemaid's from the bed-room on the other2 the stable linen and any that is old may be put in the two drawers under the cupboards2 the apparent drawers under the bin are false4 ,the bin is four feet and a half long1 twenty inches deep1 and three feet high2 it should have two lids on hinges1 and a division inside down the centre1 so that wearing apparel may be kept separate from the house linen2 over the bin is a shelf1 on which may be kept clothes-baskets1 c41 and beneath the shelf1 lists of the linen may be hung2 an inkstand and washing books might also stand there4 ,the cupboards should have moveable shelves1 with slides all down the sides4 ,it is an excellent plan to paste on the edges of these shelves1 tickets of card-board1 on which are written the name and number of the article upon the shelf4 ,thus1 a ticket with 8best sheets1 #f pair10 is placed on the edge of the shelf on which they lie2 perhaps1 8best pillow cases1 #ab pair10 will be side by side with the sheets1 the ticket belonging to them will therefore be on the edge of the same shelf4 ,this arrangement is useful both to mistress and servant1 particularly when a change takes place in the household4 ,fig4 #f4 ,house linen should be counted over once a year at least4 ,a card containing a list of articles1 together with the number and the mark1 should be fastened within the cupboard1 together with another list containing the quantity of linen allowed per week for the laundress1 and the price to be paid the washerwoman for each article4 ,a linen press should be kept in the most perfect order4 ,,remarks4 ,in purchasing house linen1 it is a good plan to buy it in the piece1 whether wanted at the time or not2 by this means1 you have always plenty of new linen by you1 which being cut up1 may be made by the the servants when there is any spare time1 they should also be marked1 so that when a towel or any thing wants replacing1 it can be done immediately1 and it does not appear nearly so great a tax on the purse when several things are wanted at once2 much time is thus saved1 and when things are bought in the piece they are charged less4 ,shirt fronts1 collars1 and wristbands1 children's shifts1 shirts and pinafores1 with several other articles might also be cut out in the same manner1 so that there is a constant supply of new linen ready-made when wanted4 ,this plan1 of course1 only answers with large families where children of all sizes are to be fitted4 ,very convenient washing books may be printed for families who pay for their washing by the piece1 with the prices affixed1 of which the following is a specimen4 ,it is the best economy to wash by the year1 or by the quarter1 in places where it can be done1 and by the score or dozen in preference to the piece4 ,a calculation may easily be made so as to be quite fair both to the washerwoman and her employer4 ,,country ,,prices4 ,,nursery ,,washing ,,book4 ,betty ,powell1 ,for ,mrs4 ,wilson4 ,date4 ,date4 ,march ,march #ast4 #ast4 ,number4 ,number4 ,price4 4 s4 d4 d4 #h #h ,aprons #d #b #b ,bands #a #e #e ,caps #a #e #g #g ---- ,night #c ---- ,flannel ,cloaks #c ,frills #a ,frocks #b ,gowns1 ,night #b ---- ,flannel #b ---- ,dressing #c ,handkerchiefs ---- ,neck ,long ,infant's ,robes #c ---- ,petticoats #b ---- ,day-,flannels #b ---- ,night-,flannels #b ---- ,day-,gowns #b ---- ,night-,gowns #b ,napkins ,petticoats #a ---- ,flannel #b ,pinafores ,saccarines #b ,stockings1 pairs of #a ,socks1 pairs of ,shifts #a ,shirts ,shawls #a ---- ,flannel #a ,spencers #a ,tippet and ,sleeves #a ,trowsers #b ,leglets ,waistcoats #a ,cradle ,covers #b ---- ,sheets #a ---- ,blankets #b ---- ,coverlets #c ---- ,pillow ,cases ,towels ,pincushion ,covers ,pieces of lace #a ,mending ,march #d4 #a4 #aa #b ,settled1 ---------- ,e4 ,p4 #a #aa #b ---------- ,,lady',s ,,washing ,,book4 ,number4 ,number4 ,price4 4s4 d4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,aprons ,caps1 ,bonnet #a ---- ,night #a ,collars #a ,dresses #d or #f ,dressing-,gowns #c ,flannel ditto #c ,drawers #a ,flannel ,petticoats #a ,flannel ,drawers #b ,flannel ,waistcoats #a ,frills #a ,habit-,shirts ,jackets #b ,night-,gowns #b ,neck ,handkerchiefs ,pocket ditto ,napkins ,pockets ,petticoats #b ,socks1 pairs of #a ,stockings1 pairs of #a ,shifts #b ,stays #f ,skirts #b ,shawls #b ,tippets #a ,,gentlemen',s ,,washing ,,book4 ,number4 ,number4 ,price4 4 s4 d4 ---------------------------------------- --------------------- ,breeches1 pairs of #c ,dressing-,gowns #c ---- ,flannel #c ,drawers #b ---- ,flannel #b ,flannel ,waistcoats #a ,jackets #a ,night-caps ,nightshirts #b ,neck handkerchiefs #a ,pocket ditto ,socks1 pairs of #a ,stockings1 pairs of #a ,shirts #c ,shirt ,collars #a ,waistcoats #a ,under ,waistcoats #a ,,house ,,linen ,,washing ,,book4 ,number4 ,number4 ,price4 4 s4 d4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,bed ,furniture #bs4 #f;d4 ,blankets1 per pair #h;d4 or #as4 ,counterpanes #as4 ,chair covers d4 ,dusters and ,cloths d4 ,doyleys d4 ,jack or ,roller ,towels#a;d4 ,kitchen ,cloths d4 ,napkins d4 ,pillow ,cases d4 ,sheets1 pairs of #b;d4 or #d;d4 ,sofa ,covers #c;d4 ,table ,cloths #b;d4 or #d;d4 ,towels d4 ,window ,curtains #b;d4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,on ,,upholstery4 ,as some knowledge of upholstery is of importance to the head of every establishment1 a few general observations relating to the fitting up of beds1 windows1 and other articles of furniture requiring much drapery2 also1 blinds1 carpets1 c41 may be advantageously inserted in this work2 as1 in families of limited income1 it is a great saving to make up the above mentioned articles at home4 ,the ,author has only introduced those patterns which1 from their simplicity1 may always be used1 without being decidedly in or out of fashion4 ,it is strongly recommended to those who can afford the expense1 to employ an experienced upholsterer1 as the patterns will not only be more in fashion1 but more tastefully and regularly put up1 than they could possibly be by any one unaccustomed to the business4 ,great accuracy is necessary for the graceful arrangement of drapery4 ,,bedsteads4 ,,plate #bb4 ,there are various shaped bedsteads1 and consequently numerous modes of fitting them up1 the most simple of which will be explained in their proper order4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #bb ,fig #a ,fig #b ,fig #c ,fig #d ,fig #e ,fig #f ,fig #g ,fig #h ,fig #aj ,fig #i ,fig #aa ,fig #ab ,fig #ac ,fig #ad ,fig #ae ,fig #af ,fig #ag ,fig #ah ,fig #ai ,fig #bj ,fig #ba ,fig #bb ,fig #bc ,fig #bd ,fig #be ,fig #bg ,fig #bi ,fig #cj ,fig #bf ,fig #bh ,fig #ca ,in providing bedsteads1 it is always better to purchase them quite new1 even when required for the commonest purposes1 as those which are second-hand are liable to harbour bugs1 which it takes both time and patience to get rid of4 ,it is desirable that all bedsteads should have castors to roll upon1 that they may be the more readily moved about4 ,observe likewise that there are valance sticks1 curtain rods1 and a good head board4 ,the best bedsteads are made of mahogany and oak3 the commoner sorts1 of beech1 stained red or painted4 ,those for hospitals or prisons1 of iron2 supposed to be a preventative against bugs4 ,brass bedsteads are used abroad1 especially by travellers1 and are ornamental and durable1 but very expensive4 ,the following is a list of the different kinds of bedsteads in general use3-- ,the four-post bed1 from #b4 #ajs4 upwards1 ,plate #bb1 ,fig4 #b4 ,the tent bed1 -- #b4 #js4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #ae4 ,the camp1 -- #b4 #js4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #af4 ,the half-tester1 -- #ahs4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #ai4 ,the ,french pole1 -- #a4 #ahs4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #ba4 ,the ,french arrow bed1 -- #a4 #ajs4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #bb4 ,the canopy bed1 -- #b4 #js4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #be4 ,the ,french block bed1 -- #b4 #js4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #bd4 ,the turn-up bed1 -- #b4 #js4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #bf4 ,the stump bed1 -- #is4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #ca4 ,the trestle or x1 -- #is4 ---- -- #bb1 -- #bg4 ,besides which may be added1 hanging beds or cots1 hammocks1 cribs1 sofa or chair beds1 c4 ,,hints ,,on ,,putting ,,up ,,beds4 ,so few ladies or servants understand how to put up or take down bedsteads1 that the following instructions are entered upon at full length4 ,an instrument called a bed key should be procured for the purpose 7see ,plate #bb1 ,fig4 #a71 after which proceed as follows3--,divide the high upright posts for the head of the bed1 from those intended for the foot2 the former are easily distinguished from the latter1 being usually square and perfectly plain1 whereas those for the foot are generally circular and ornamented4 ,place the two head posts near that part of the wall where the bed is to stand4 ,lay the foot posts below them on the floor1 first observing whether there are any marks or numbers upon them1 by which you can be directed to place the proper foot post opposite to its corresponding head post2 next lay the side and end pieces in their proper places2 the longer ones for the sides1 and the shorter for the ends2 these should also be marked to point out their relative situations4 ,lay the head board at the top1 and the foot board at the bottom1 and afterwards put one long and one short screw at each corner of the bedstead4 ,assistance must now be procured to rear up the four posts and set in the sides4 ,three persons are necessary to effect this1 but four are better for a full sized bed4 ,raise up the posts and set between them the side pieces1 taking care to slip into the groove1 both the head and the foot boards1 as they cannot be put in after the posts are screwed together1 unless they button against them4 ,the four long screws are intended to screw into the sides1 and the four short ones into the ends4 ,the screw holes are placed behind the little brass plates usually put on the legs of the posts4 ,proceed with the bed key to turn each screw till firmly fixed in the hole4 ,the sacking is next tightly laced up with strong cord1 and ought to be pulled together and knotted by a man1 as a woman is scarcely strong enough to do it effectually4 ,the top-rails are next put on by slipping the holes at the ends over the spikes at the tops of the bed posts4 ,the curtains are generally put on before the outer cornice1 this last is generally fastened on by a spring1 or by hooks1 or some other simple contrivance4 ,camp or tent beds have ribs or bars across the roof of the bed to keep the curved top firm1 but in other respects1 differ little from the four-post bed4 ,observe1 on taking down a bed1 to mark carefully upon the pieces1 before removing them1 different numbers1 so as easily to place them in their proper situations when next put up4 ,the head of a half-tester bedstead1 should be very strongly attached to the back1 as its weight will endanger its falling1 if not firmly secured4 ,the other shapes will be entered upon when the mode of furnishing them is explained4 ,,on ,,furnishing ,,beds4 ,beds are furnished with the following articles1 which with the addition of sheets and pillow cases1 explained in the article of house linen1 make them complete4 ,the drapery1 including curtains4 ,the straw mattress4 ,the wool or hair mattress4 ,the feather bed4 ,the bolster4 ,the two or three pillows4 ,the quilt or counterpane4 ,the blankets4 ,the watch-pockets4 ,beds for common use are hung with linen or cotton check1 or stripe1 print or stuff1 but for better purposes1 with dimity1 fine stuff1 moreen1 damask1 chintz1 ,turkey twill1 and lined with glazed calico or muslin of various colours1 and for state-rooms1 fine silk1 satin1 or velvet is employed4 ,the modes of fitting up beds are various1 according to the shape of the bedstead1 as well as to the taste4 ,the most usual and simple methods alone will be treated of here1 all best beds and drapery for sitting-rooms should be put up by regular upholsterers1 as it requires much correctness of eye1 added to taste and knowledge of the prevailing fashion4 ,the following observations on taste1 on the choice of materials1 and arrangement of drapery1 generally speaking1 will be found worth attending to4 ,beds that are placed in small and low rooms should be hung with as little drapery1 as is consistent with comfort4 ,large valances1 deep fringes1 high mattresses look bustling1 and are not so airy and therefore not so healthful as plenty of open space4 ,beds placed in lofty rooms should be high1 and have deep fringe and valances1 otherwise they will have a mean appearance1 still if the room be narrow1 the less bulk of drapery the better4 ,beds situated in dark gloomy rooms should be furnished with a cheerful airy material1 at the same time avoiding too violent a contrast with the character of the room1 furniture1 or carpet4 ,every thing must be taken into consideration and is worth attending to1 for with a little judgment1 a room may be more elegantly furnished than another where six times the money has been laid out1 if not under the direction of taste4 ,blue is pretty1 but rather cold2 yellow gives great cheerfulness1 as also pink1 but the latter is apt to fade soon and is perhaps a little too shewy4 ,crimson1 claret1 stone-colour1 buff1 and light green all look well2 a darker green is very refreshing to the eye1 and therefore suitable for very light sunny rooms4 ,beds that are furnished with thick drapery1 as stuff1 moreen1 damask or linens1 seldom1 if ever1 require linings1 while chintzes and sometimes dimities are lined with glazed calico1 in which case1 care should be taken that the colour of the lining harmonizes not only with the bed furniture1 but with the papering of the room4 ,the fringe1 tassels1 ribbons1 cord1 and other decorations1 should match in colour with the lining4 ,the pattern of the material should also be a consideration4 ,stripes or small patterns are suitable for small rooms1 while large flowers or patterns best accord with large ones4 ,,on ,,the ,,various ,,modes ,,of ,,decorating ,,bed ,,furniture4 ,beds are generally decorated with tassels or fringe1 if the latter1 lace is usually laid on1 at about a nail above the edge upon the hem which is turned up4 ,sometimes the lining is cut larger than the outer part1 and brought over the edge to form a hem of a nail deep all round the material outside4 ,this looks pretty and simple4 ,if the cornice be a common one1 the valance may be made with a kind of frill or heading above1 or a band or rouleau of the material laid above the valance round which may be wrapped strips of the coloured lining of half an inch1 or even a nail in width4 ,cords in festoons1 cut velvet1 binding and ornamental gimp or open work1 are often employed4 ,white dimity furniture is sometimes lined with coloured calico with turned up hems1 sometimes merely coloured hems1 at others finished with white fringe1 or frills with white cords and tassels4 ,,on ,,furnishing ,a ,,full ,,sized ,,four-,,post ,,bed4 ,bed furniture is composed of a top1 a back1 two head curtains1 two foot curtains1 one top outer and one top inner valance1 one bottom valance1 and sometimes extra drapery laid on the back of the bed4 ,when beds are lined1 the lining is put inside the curtains1 and within the top and back of the bed4 ,if there is any drapery laid upon the back1 it is generally composed of the outer chintz1 as is also the inside top valance4 ,large sheets of coarse brown paper pasted together in lengths should be laid over the beds to catch the dust4 ,some persons lay harden or coarse linen between the head of the bed and these sheets of paper4 ,the furniture for beds must be cut differently1 according to the pattern of the material4 ,if it is in stripes down the selvage the valances are cut in breadths1 if otherwise1 upholsterers generally cut them along the selvage1 as they are less liable to shrink when cleaned or washed4 ,,plain ,,drapery ,,for ,a ,,large ,,sized ,,four-,,post ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,if in ,if cut down ,breadths4 the ,selvage4 ,width of head curtains1 each #b breadths #b breadths ,width of each foot curtain #d or #e #d or #e ,width of foot valance all round #i or #aa #aa yards4 ,width of the top outside valance #ae breadths #af yards4 ,width of the top inside valance #aa breadths #aa yards4 ,the back and head must be exactly measured1 letting the selvage-way ran from head to foot of the bed4 ,the curtains should just touch the ground1 as also should the foot valance4 ,the inner top valance should be half a nail narrower than the outer4 ,in making up1 the curtains are bound round1 or if lined1 sometimes the lining is brought outside to form a hem all round4 ,lace is often laid on at about one nail from the edge4 ,the valances accord with the rest1 having often fringe added to gve a greater finish4 ,,festoon ,,hangings4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,in making festoon valances or hangings1 measure as follows3-- ,divide the side of the bed in half1 driving in a small tack as a mark4 ,hang a piece of tape from the middle of the side to the end1 ,fig4 #g1 making it fall in the droop or curve desired 7see ,a ,b ,c1 ,fig4 #g74 ,do the same with another piece of tape1 making it fall in the direction of the upper part of the droop 7see ,d ,e74 ,lay the material1 ,fig4 #e1 on the table1 and after taking down the pieces of tape1 measure the material from ,a to ,b1 the length of the lower droop4 ,put a pin 7see ,d7 immediately above ,b1 upon the other selvage as a mark1 and then measure from the end1 ,r1 upon the selvage1 the length of the upper droop or shortest tape1 which will fall at ,e1 at some distance within the mark ,d4 ,divide the space between ,d and ,e1 exactly in half at ,g1 and cut from ,b to ,g2 cut three other pieces to correspond1 which1 as they exactly fit one with another 7see ,fig4 #e71 prevents waste4 ,these four pieces or breadths are for part of each of the four festoons1 which require a breadth and a half in each4 ,for the half breadths fold the material in exactly half its width1 laying selvage along selvage1 and measure for the rest of the festoons 7see ,fig4 #f74 ,upon the selvage side1 ,h1 measure the length of the shortest part of the first breadths already cut1 and on the doubled side1 measure the exact length of the smallest tape for the upper droop1 ,l1 and cut from ,h1 to within a nail of ,l1 thus1 when the doubled part is slit down1 forming two half breadths to correspond with the two whole breadths1 making in all two complete festoons4 ,cut two others1 and the four festoons are complete1 and when the half breadths are sewed to the whole breadths1 they appear each similar to ,fig4 #aj4 ,lay them one upon another1 and slope off from the straight end at the bottom ,a1 about two nails from the sloped side1 ,b1 and the festoons are ready to be made up4 ,the bottom of the bed must be measured with tape1 and cut out in a similar manner4 ,the corners of the festoons are cut as follows3-- ,measure off from the end1 ,a1 ,fig4 #h1 down the selvage1 the length desired1 putting a pin1 ,b1 in one of the selvages as a mark4 ,measure the half of the length1 ,a ,b1 on the opposite selvage at ,d1 and slope off from ,d to ,b4 ,this forms one head post corner1 or half a foot post corner1 so that it requires six of these sloped lengths to complete the four corners of the bedstead1 and if cut properly to fit into each other1 no waste occurs4 ,the ,plate1 ,fig4 #i1 represents a head corner1 and ,fig4 #h1 a foot corner or two breadths sewed together4 ,sometimes a double corner is also made to hang between the two festoons1 in which case1 it is cut similarly to the above1 excepting that it is much shorter and rounder4 ,when the festoon is carried over a pole1 it is all in one piece 7see ,fig4 #aa71 the pieces being shaped at the ends1 as in the separate festoons above4 ,,another ,,upper ,,drapery4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,this is simply a deep fringe1 and looks exceedingly plain and handsome4 ,a back-piece or very narrow valance should be put outside1 the inner valance to accord exactly with the outer1 to which the fringe is sewed4 ,the rod or pole should be handsome1 and should be put outside this valance1 so as just to conceal the part where the fringe is attached4 ,the curtains are suspended to the rod by handsome rings1 and draw outside the valance and fringe4 ,cord and tassels may be added1 if preferred4 ,,another ,,upper ,,drapery4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,this is simple and pretty1 and takes less material than the full valance2 it is cut selvage-way of the material of such a depth as will accord with both room and bedstead1 and exactly to fit round the cornice4 ,this valance is cut in various shapes1 either pointed1 rounded1 vandyked1 gothic or otherwise1 and usually with tassels fixed to each point or angle to give a finish4 ,cords may be hung in festoons at pleasure4 ,,another ,,upper ,,bed ,,drapery4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,this is equally simple2 it is cut in breadths and takes about nine on each side1 and seven at the bottom1 to go round the bedstead2 it is sloped or cut nearly to a point in the middle of each of the three sides1 where a bow or ornament of some kind may be put4 ,,another ,,upper ,,bed ,,drapery4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,this is suitable for tent beds1 and is hung with a succession of festoons1 made as explained before4 ,,another ,,upper ,,bed ,,drapery4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,this is intended for a camp bed1 and is hung in festoons1 having however a back valance of plaited or plain material1 which1 together with the curtains may1 if preferred1 be of a different colour to the valances4 ,,on ,,the ,,heads ,,and ,,tops ,,of ,,beds4 ,these vary very much1 being sometimes plain and at others ornamented4 ,the material must always lie selvage-way from head to foot1 and never crosswise of the bedstead4 ,when plain1 the material is stretched across so as to shew neither crease nor wrinkle4 ,gimp is often laid down the seams and along the sides4 ,when the head is plain1 it is usual to put two festoons to give it a more finished appearance4 ,these festoons should be of the same material as the outer drapery4 ,when full1 ,plate #bb1 ,fig4 #bj1 it takes four or more breadths1 and is set evenly into a band of webbing1 which is tacked on to the bed1 or with loops hung firmly to hooks1 so as not to tear the furniture4 ,when starred1 ,plate #bb1 ,fig4 #ag1 it generally takes eight breadths1 four at the corners1 and the other four top and bottom1 and the sides1 these must be shaped to form the square4 ,it is all drawn to a centre and fastened with a brass star4 ,sometimes they are half starred1 as in ,fig4 #ah1 where the plaits radiate from just above the pillow4 ,,on ,,foot ,,boards4 ,these are generally entirely solid wood1 but sometimes the foot board is merely a handsome frame of mahogany containing the same material as the lining of the bed furniture4 ,fig4 #aa represents a foot board of wood only4 ,fig4 #ae represents a foot board starred within the frame with chintz or calico4 ,,the ,,half-,,tester4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj4 ,these may be trimmed in a variety of ways1 either festoons1 as in ,fig4 #ai1 valances1 or plain1 and cut out in vandykes and scollops1 as in ,fig4 #bj4 ,this last looks pretty and simple1 and as it gives the appearance of great lightness to the head1 it is preferable to the others4 ,the backs should be hung to accord with the outside4 ,fig4 #ai may be plain1 with festoons of the outer material4 ,fig4 #bj1 with a simple inside valance1 or the back fulled or gathered into a half star1 or set in flutes4 ,,french ,,pole ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,this is a compact1 pretty shaped bed1 and as it can be easily moved about1 or taken to pieces1 it is convenient in an invalid's room as an extra bed4 ,two poles which rise from the head and foot board1 support the curtain rod which should be handsomely finished1 and might be fastened on by pushing the ends through the rings or circular holes formed at the top of the supporters1 and large ends screwed on to fix it firmly4 ,the four curtains have three breadths in each1 and are bound together firmly at the top4 ,rings must be fastened on1 through which the rod is drawn1 and fastened to the supporters4 ,tassels may be hung1 and cords if preferred4 ,valances being put round1 the drapery is complete4 ,sometimes the two curtains1 falling one on each side1 are sewed together behind4 ,,the ,,french ,,arrow ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,this bedstead is much the same shape as the pole bed1 excepting that it has no supporters or curtain rod1 and therefore1 when hung with drapery1 requires being placed near the wall1 into which a pin or arrow is driven1 over which the drapery is hung4 ,this shaped bedstead1 when not hung with drapery1 is particularly desirable for servants1 or for schools1 as the danger of fire is lessened1 and if nicely finished and painted looks neat and respectable1 besides being economical and clean4 ,when hung1 sew nine or eleven breadths together according to the size of the bedstead4 ,measure the length with a piece of tape1 allowing it to droop as it lies from the top of the pole over the foot board to the floor4 ,sew the breadths up all the seams1 and then1 after dividing the whole width in half1 marking it with a pin1 hem the whole1 and draw it up folded in two1 sewing it firmly to a case which should be made to slip on the pole1 something like an umbrella case4 ,another1 and perhaps a better mode1 is that of sewing rings to the doubled part thus drawn up1 which will slip on to the pole1 the head or knob of which when screwed on1 would prevent the rings from falling off4 ,,french ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,the drapery to this bed is exactly similar to the arrow ,french bed1 excepting that it is passed over a hook secured to the ceiling1 in preference to a pole from the wall4 ,,french ,,block ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,the drapery for this is also similar to that of the arrow ,french bed1 excepting that it is fastened with tacks round four sides of a handsome mahogany block fixed to the ceiling4 ,to this should be added a handsome valance or deep fringe to hide the fastenings of the drapery4 ,,the ,,french ,,canopy ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,the bedstead and drapery are as the preceding1 but fastened to a head or crown secured to the wall having round it festoons as a finish4 ,sometimes the head is supported by rods from the bedstead4 ,a valance is added to complete it4 ,,the ,,turn-,,up ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,this is also useful as an extra bed for invalids1 or for small rooms1 as it takes up but little space1 can be easily moved1 and when turned up1 looks neat and tidy4 ,in the one here represented1 the sides are made to draw out1 the legs to unhook1 and the top to take to pieces1 so that the whole can be packed in a small compass when not wanted4 ,in making up the drapery1 the back may be full1 plain or starred2 the sides plain or plaited1 and two curtains sewed on1 so made as to overlap each other a little in front4 ,these curtains loop up at the sides with cords4 ,,the ,,press ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,this shuts up still more completely than the turn-up bed1 and forms a chest or toilet table1 when not in use2 it looks very neat with a simple toilet cover over the top4 ,these beds are useful on some occasions1 in towns and in small houses1 although they are not generally considered wholesome1 being low and rather confined4 ,they are sometimes lined with glazed calico1 and a cover put outside of dimity1 frilled round the top1 to which is sewed a piece of the same material1 very much fulled all round1 to open in the middle of the front1 down each side of which is put a frill or fringe4 ,,the ,,stump ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,these are principally used by cottagers1 and men servants1 and require no drapery1 they are called stump bedsteads because the head posts are short1 not being higher than is sufficient to admit of a head board4 ,sometimes cottagers attach a kind of curtain to a hook in the wall1 which adds much to their warmth and comfort1 and would appear like a half ,french bed4 ,this drapery might be two breadths behind1 and two on each side1 making six in all1 which should be doubled and gathered to a strong webbing4 ,baize1 calimanco1 or cotton check would be very suitable4 ,,the ,,trestle ,,bed4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,this is the most simple and most common kind of bedstead made1 and from its construction1 is not calculated to support a very heavy person1 all the strength depending upon the power of the two pins or screws which fasten the legs4 ,no drapery is used unless fastened to the wall as in the above stump bedstead4 ,a head board1 with two pins1 slips into the holes at the top4 ,,the ,,hanging ,,bed ,,or ,,cot4 ,,plate #bb4 ,,fig4 #bi1 #cj4 ,these are excellent things for children1 especially where there is a large family of sons2 for officers' families who are often obliged to change their residence1 they are particularly desirable1 on account of their cheapness1 durability1 and the little space they occupy4 ,they are only proper for single beds1 but are sufficiently strong for a grown-up person4 ,they would answer exceedingly well for cottagers1 as in the day time1 they might be drawn up to the ceiling1 thus affording more room in the apartment for washing1 or performing other household duties4 ,they are made for the higher classes as follows3-- ,procure a strong frame of wood1 of about six feet long1 and two feet and a half wide1 also two round poles of wood1 two feet long and about two inches in diameter4 ,get some strong ticking1 or if it be covered and lined1 a kind of thick sacking would do1 which might have a cover of chintz1 and lining of glazed calico4 ,this sacking must be cut according to the ,plate #bb1 ,fig4 #bi1 allowing in addition to the size of the frame1 three feet at each end1 and eighteen inches at the sides4 ,the ends have a strong hem or case sewed to them1 into which the poles are slipped4 ,the four sides have lace-holes large enough to admit of strong coloured cord to lace them together4 ,the frame is let into the square thus formed1 having previously fastened to the sides two pieces of ticking1 one sewed on each long side at the bottom4 ,put the frame into the square1 having1 however1 first firmly fastened at the bottom of the square1 another piece of ticking1 which shall lace over the frame1 down the length of the cot1 so as to make a kind of straight waistcoat1 which keeps the frame firmly in place4 ,observe that the cot1 which is two feet six inches wide at the frame1 is sloped off to two feet at the ends where the poles are admitted1 in order to contract the sides a little1 this keeps the clothes in place1 and if for a child1 adds much to its safety4 ,crimson or other coloured ropes should be employed to hang the cot from under the frame through hems up the high ends1 and out through holes made in the poles1 afterwards to meet at the hook in the ceiling on each side4 ,a strong cord is also run in at the hem along the long sides of the cot4 ,fringe may be added at the bottom1 if preferred4 ,they should be hung at the same height from the ground as common beds1 the ropes should be very strong1 and be constantly looked at4 ,they are better when fitted up with two thin mattresses than with a mattress and bed4 ,when not wanted1 they will1 if unlaced1 lie flat against a wall in a closet and take but little room4 ,they are hung from a ring on a hook in the ceiling4 ,very little cots might be made with advantage to hang in a carriage1 or within a very large four-post bed1 where the mother might attend her infant without rising in the night to the danger of taking cold4 ,the expense of a handsomely fitted up cot would be about #b41 but a common one might be made for eight or ten shillings4 ,there are no further observations to be made on beds1 excepting that the more readily the drapery can be taken off and put on to the bedstead1 the less will be the wear and tear1 so that if small loops or rings could be sewed on the valances1 so as to loop over the cornice1 it would be desirable4 ,once or twice a year bed furniture should be taken down and well dusted1 rubbed with crusts of bread1 and sometimes calendered to keep it in order4 ,on leaving home1 the curtains should be rolled up to the top of the bed and put into linen bags1 and the cornices and valances taken down and covered up4 ,,mattresses4 ,the first mattress usually laid on the bedstead is made of straw1 it is very thick1 and as hard as a board2 as these are never made at home1 nothing more will be said about them1 excepting that they are made in a frame1 and should be covered with a very strong good tick or ,holland4 ,the second mattress is made of horse-hair or wool for large beds2 and for children1 of chaff1 sea-weed1 beech leaves1 cocoa nut fibre1 paper1 and many other things of the sort2 chaff and horse-hair appear the most desirable1 from being cool1 and neither too soft nor too hard for comfort4 ,these mattresses are made of various sorts of ticking1 of which linen or cotton stripe1 and a kind called cranky tick are most in use4 ,for the poor1 mattresses are often filled with mill-puff1 or flock1 and for children1 bran might be a good substitute4 ,mattresses are made exactly to fit the bedstead1 being cut out at the corners to surround the post1 if they intrude into the square of the bedstead4 ,they have sides sewed all round of one nail and a half or two nails deep4 ,in cutting out a mattress1 the rule is to allow an extra inch to every foot1 to give room for the stuffing both in length and in width4 ,these sides are usually cut the selvage-way of the ticking1 and are attached to the top and bottom by means of ferreting or webbing1 which is stitched with strongly waxed whitey brown thread1 after which1 the mattress is filled with the stuffing1 and then is tufted1 as it is usually called1 which is done by passing a packing needle threaded with strong thread entirely through the thickness of the mattress and again passing it back at a little distance1 and tying the two ends firmly together4 ,this is repeated at intervals of four nails or more apart1 in a straight row along it4 ,a second line of tufting is now done1 still at four nails apart1 letting the stitches fall opposite the middle of the spaces in the last row1 and so on4 ,this secures the stuffing of the mattress1 and keeps it in place1 little tufts of worsted are sewed to these parts thus stitched1 to hide the stitches and ornament the mattress1 sometimes mere circles of red leather are sewed on instead4 ,the price of a straw mattress is from #ajs4 to #cjs4 ,the price of a wool mattress is from #ces4 to #fjs4 ,the price of horse-hair1 per lb41 is from #as4 to #bs4 ,the price of mill-puff1 per lb4 #b;d4 ,the price of linen tick1 per yard1 is from #i;d4 to #bs4 #i;d4 ,the price of cotton tick1 per yard1 is from #d;d4 to #as4 #f;d4 ,the price of wool1 per lb41 is from #f;d4 to #as4 #b;d4 ,,beds1 ,,bolsters1 ,,and ,,pillows4 ,these are filled with chicken1 turkey1 goose feathers1 and down1 for the higher classes1 and mill-puff1 which is a kind of cotton1 for the lower classes4 ,the following prices are an average of the expense of the various articles for making up beds4 ,mill-puff1 #b;d4 per lb41 of which fifty pounds make a large bed4 ,flock1 at #c;d4 per lb4 ,chicken feathers1 at #aj;d4 or #as4 ,grey goose1 or turkeys'1 at #bs4 or #bs4 #f;d4 ,best goose1 white feathers1 at #bs4 #b;d4 to #cs4 #f;d4 ,down from geese1 for pillows1 #fs4 per lb4 ,cotton ticking1 for beds1 at #f;d4 or #h;d4 ,linen ticking1 for beds1 at #as4 or #as4 #c;d4 ,beds are made sometimes with sides1 and sometimes without2 in the latter case1 nine yards of ticking are sufficient1 otherwise eleven yards4 ,divide one yard and two nails into four1 to make the long sides1 and another yard1 divided into four1 to make ends2 the bed is two yards and a quarter in length1 two breadths above1 and two below4 ,the ticking is waxed with white wax1 or rubbed with brown soap1 and when the feathers are in1 the sides are bound with the usual binding1 or what is still better1 piped throughout4 ,in making up mill-puff beds1 care should be taken to separate dust1 and disentangle it well1 before putting it into the ticking4 ,for a bolster1 two yards are required1 and for each pillow1 one yard4 ,these should be filled with the softest feathers1 and the ticking well stitched4 ,pillows are sometimes covered with calico covers1 which tack or button on underneath the usual pillow cases1 mentioned in the article 8,house ,linen10 and make them look beautifully white and clean4 ,every double bed should have three or four pillows1 and single ones1 either one or two4 ,bolsters sometimes have also covers to preserve the ticking4 ,pillows are often stuffed with down1 or torn pieces of paper of a quarter of an inch square2 this last is said to be particularly soft and cool4 ,,blankets4 ,every bed should have one under blanket1 and two or three upper ones4 ,these last are usually the ,witney1 whilst the under blanket is of an inferior sort2 they should be thick and light1 with a soft nap or wool upon them4 ,blankets are generally sold in pairs1 or two woven together4 ,these1 for beds must be cut1 in which case1 the edges are sewed over in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch1 with red1 or other coloured wool1 also a kind of circle or star is often worked in the corner with various coloured wool4 ,for cribs1 it is better not to divide the blankets but lay them on the crib double1 as they come in more usefully as under blankets for beds afterwards1 when uncut4 ,the ,witney blanket is considered the best4 ,the ,rose and the ,bath are the other varieties4 ,when not in use1 blankets should be folded1 and laid under those beds in use1 to keep them aired4 ,some persons lend blankets to the poor1 in which case1 on their being returned1 they should be scoured well and baked in an oven1 before they are put by in brown paper bags with pepper sprinkled over them4 ,,coverlets ,,or ,,counterpanes4 ,there are various kinds of quilts or counterpanes4 ,those most known are1 ,the ,marseilles1 which sell from #fs4 to #bes4 ,the ,imperial1 which sell from #is4 to #cjs4 ,the ,summer1 which sell from #bes4 to #ehs4 ,the ,toilet cover1 or cradle quilt #aes4 to #dbs4 ,those used for servants1 are of a dark brown1 violet1 or grey colour4 ,those used by cottagers1 are often of patchwork made by them at school1 or in their leisure moments4 ,these quilts are sometimes made of a succession of hexagons or six-sided pieces of print1 at others1 birds1 figures1 and other devices are cut out and sewed up with various shaped bits of calico1 prints1 c4 ,these quilts are durable when lined1 and may be good work for school children1 though they certainly take up a good deal of time in making4 ,all counterpanes not in constant use1 should be either put by in drawers1 or laid on the bed with the wrong side uppermost4 ,having now entered upon each article belonging to the bedstead1 it only remains for us to make the following observation4 ,it is advisable to cut several small squares of linen1 and having wet them with the marking liquid1 to mark upon them the list of every article belonging to the bed to which the square of calico is to be attached4 ,these squares should be washed and ironed1 and sewed upon the mattress1 bed1 bolster1 pillows1 blankets1 and coverlet of each bedstead1 thus3-- ,,blue ,,room4 ,one straw mattress4 ,one hair ditto4 ,one feather bed4 ,four pillows1 one bolster4 ,one under and three upper blankets4 ,one counterpane4 ,two watch-pockets4 ,by this method1 the bed furniture1 if mixed1 can easily be sorted and counted by the mistress or housemaid4 ,,watch ,,pockets4 ,these are often made of the same material as the bed-curtains1 or of white muslin1 or dimity1 or tick ornamented4 ,a few shapes are mentioned hereafter1 in the chapter on cases1 bags1 c4 ,,carpets4 ,those generally known1 are as follows3-- ,superb ,axminster4 ,saxony4 ,royal velvet pile4 ,tournay4 ,brussels4 ,turkey4 ,imperial4 ,kidderminster4 ,venetian4 ,danish ,venetian4 ,scotch4 ,druggets4 ,rugs1 c4 ,all these carpets are expensive and durable1 the ,brussels is that most in use for best apartments1 and best stair-cases in the present day1 being very durable1 and less expensive than most of the others mentioned in the same list4 ,their price varies from #ds4 #f;d4 to #ajs4 #f;d4 per yard4 ,turkey carpets were formerly in great request for dining-rooms1 and were sometimes used as table cloths in libraries1 which gave a remarkably rich and handsome1 though heavy appearance4 ,the great objection to them is their great weight1 which renders it difficult to shake them4 ,these ,turkey carpets look well for years1 and are made in the piece1 measuring sometimes ten or more yards long1 and five or more wide4 ,the expense varies according to their size1 from #aj4 to #hj4 or more4 ,those carpets generally employed for common sitting-rooms1 stair-cases1 servants' apartments1 c4 are the following3-- ,kidderminster4 ,venetian4 ,damask ,venetian4 ,scotch4 ,druggets4 ,baizes1 c4 ,the ,kidderminster and ,damask ,venetian are the most desirable of these inferior carpets2 the ,scotch and common ,venetian being used for school-rooms and servants' apartments4 ,these vary much in price1 from #bs4 to #fs4 per yard4 ,druggets are very wide1 being sometimes two yards1 and sometimes four yards4 ,they are chiefly employed to lay over another carpet1 to preserve it when the room is in daily use1 and only removed for company4 ,sometimes druggets alone are laid1 and when of a handsome brown or marone colour1 look exceedingly well4 ,they should be very tightly stretched on the floor1 so as not to present a wrinkle to view4 ,carpets are often made in worsted-work upon canvass1 and are considered durable1 though the time occupied in making them is great4 ,a worked border upon canvass1 with the arms or crest1 with drugget sewed between1 has a very pretty effect for a stair carpet1 and might be quickly done4 ,borders can be purchased in shops for the same purpose4 ,there are various modes of making up rugs1 but as this belongs more properly to fancy work1 it will not here be mentioned4 ,rugs may be knit in various ways also1 as will be seen in the chapter upon knitting4 ,in making up carpets1 observe the following directions1 as they are necessary for their appearance and durability4 ,brussels1 when made up1 should be turned with the wrong side outwards1 with the selvages just touching each other1 but not laid one upon the other4 ,the carpet needle is then passed backwards and forwards1 always taking up both seams at a time1 first pointing the needle from1 and next towards the chest4 ,observe1 the alternate stitches are always taken behind1 or at the back of the last stitch1 so as to work along the seam from right to left in a kind of back-stitch fashion4 ,the seam will be close together and tread down flat4 ,observe1 carefully to cut out the carpet1 and sew it up to match the pattern properly and exactly1 as the slightest mistake or pucker will ruin the appearance of the whole carpet4 ,there is a kind of thread1 called carpet thread1 sold for the purpose1 of every colour4 ,kidderminster and other carpets are sewed in the usual mode of sewing seams together1 taking care to secure the selvages very firmly together1 taking up every thread4 ,druggets4 ,these are turned down once1 and herring-boned at the edges1 and sewed up at the seams1 as above4 ,all carpets should be bound with the regular carpet binding at the edges1 or the carpet simply turned down with the binding laid on4 ,this last plan is the flattest1 and answers for that end of the room where the doors are situated1 for them to open and shut more easily upon4 ,expensive carpets should be cut as little as possible1 therefore1 when a piece is obliged to be cut for the hearth stone1 it is better to slit the piece only at the sides1 and having caught the edges over to prevent their ravelling1 the piece or lip should then be turned in underneath the carpet4 ,by this means1 if the carpet is wanted for another room1 the lip might be sewed up neatly and form the square again4 ,carpet rods are very useful things1 not only for stair-cases1 but for bed-rooms1 or sitting-rooms1 to fasten and stretch the carpets on the floor with4 ,in this case1 the rod should be a little longer than the breadth of the carpet1 and a ,holland or linen case sewed very firmly underneath the carpet so as just to come to the edge of it1 or even strong tape loops would answer as well4 ,run the rod along them1 and let it pass at each end into two or more brass rings or hooks fastened to the floor4 ,matting is used for halls1 passages1 and sometimes laid beneath the carpets to preserve them4 ,it should always be neatly bound with red1 green1 or other coloured leather4 ,carpets should always be mended with a loose kind of untwisted worsted1 called thrums4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #bc4 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #bd ,,window ,,curtains4 ,,plate #bc4 ,the drapery for window curtains1 if for sitting-rooms1 is generally attached to one cornice1 whether for two1 three1 or even four windows2 but for bed-rooms1 the drapery is always separately hung4 ,observe for bed-rooms1 that the window curtains should always accord with the hanging on the bed1 both in colour and material1 as also in shape4 ,those hangings already drawn for bed furniture will be a sufficient pattern by which to form the corresponding window curtains1 therefore but a few additional patterns for bed-rooms will be explained4 ,it is desirable to have as little window drapery as possible to family or secondary rooms1 particularly nurseries and servants' rooms1 on account of their liability to catch fire1 especially as toilet tables are so often situated within the window4 ,in an upper story1 curtains might be dispensed with1 using only the valance and corners4 ,windows have generally two brass pins or hooks on each side1 over which the curtains are hung or looped4 ,curtains should always be cut six or eight nails longer than the length of the window1 to allow for their touching the ground when looped upon the pin4 ,for a window of three panes1 two breadths are sufficient in each curtain1 but for four or five panes1 two and a half1 or three breadths1 will be necessary for each4 ,they should be often dusted1 and in hot summers1 bed-room and even sitting-room curtains might be taken down and put by till wanted for winter1 as the sun fades and makes them look shabby4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,this is very handsome for a sitting-room1 or even for a drawing-room1 a kind of straight valance is put behind a rod1 to which a deep fringe is sewed4 ,the curtains with tassels sewed to them at the top1 draw along the rod with large rings4 ,a lace may be laid down the curtains1 at one nail from the edge3 this curtain in green and gold looks very handsome4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,this style is more suited to a sitting-room or bed-room1 being rather too heavy for a drawing-room4 ,the cornice is of mahogany or painted wood1 to which a plain valance1 cut selvage-way1 is fastened4 ,this valance is either scolloped1 vandyked1 or cut in any other form at the bottom1 and a pattern in cut velvet or lace is sewed on at the edge1 and also at about a nail above it4 ,two plain corners are cut1 and with the curtains1 are also ornamented at one nail from the edge1 with the same decoration as the valance4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,this is very neat for a bed-room1 or for a common sitting-room1 but unless of very handsome materials1 might be considered too plain for a best room4 ,to a mahogany cornice is fastened a straight valance1 cut down the selvage1 and shaped according to the ,plate1 or otherwise1 according to taste4 ,it must be bound with another coloured binding1 and handsome tassels sewed on at each point4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,this is a very handsome drapery for any room1 and is simply a festoon thrown over a pole1 as before explained1 with double corners4 ,fringe and lace add to the finish4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this is suitable for gothic windows1 or for a study or library1 it is very simple1 and may be formed to any shape1 according to the style of the room4 ,the corners are in a piece with the valance1 and are cut down the selvage2 a pattern of cut velvet may be laid on at the corners1 to give it relief4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,this is a handsome drapery for a drawing or dining-room1 and might be adapted to any number of windows1 by continuing the lower cornice1 and providing one or more upper rods1 in addition to the one represented in the ,plate4 ,the corners should reach more than half way down the window1 but the middle double piece should be much shorter4 ,lace and tassels are required to finish the whole4 ,the cornice may be black1 with brass ends1 or entirely brass4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,another very pretty festoon1 and suitable for a drawing-room or elsewhere4 ,the middle part is a festoon1 with a point attached to it1 and1 on this account1 would require two breadths instead of one and a half1 to form the depth required4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,this is a beautiful drawing-room window festoon1 and requires a more ornamental brass cornice than usual4 ,the festoons are all very simple1 being cut out as before explained1 excepting that the corners are longer than ordinary1 being looped upon a high curtain pin1 so that the ends must be sloped off from one-third1 instead of one half of the material4 ,sometimes with three windows1 the two inner curtains of the outer windows are simply muslin1 and the middle window has two of muslin1 as well as of the material4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,passage or church windows are generally circular1 unless pointed2 in the former case1 they should be hung at the top with a piece of straight material of the depth of half the diameter of the circle1 and sufficiently long to be a little fulled to the outer part of the circle4 ,the inner part is gathered to a point in the middle2 the curtains simply hang to the rod1 ornamented by a little frill1 valance1 fringe1 or tassels1 as taste may direct4 ,there are many ways of drawing curtains together1 but the one now most adopted is that of bringing them forwards or backwards by means of one string which at once draws both curtains2 the following is an explanation4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,let ,a ,b represent the two rods under the cornice1 and behind1 or concealed by the valance4 ,after putting the rings of each curtain upon its own rod1 tie the cord to the ring1 ,no4 #a1 and pass across through the rings marked ,no4 #b1 over the side pulley of the window1 down the side1 ,c1 round the pulley1 ,d1 up the side again1 and under the top pulley1 and then take it across above the rings1 till it comes to the first ring1 ,no4 #a1 when it is also passed through it and all the others towards ,e1 it is next taken round the pulley1 ,h1 and outside the rings1 and fastened to the ring1 ,no4 #b1 in a hard knot4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,this is an old fashioned simple curtain still in use in churches1 small houses1 and for housekeepers' rooms4 ,the curtain is in as many breadths as is required for the width of the window1 and of the proper length4 ,the top is nailed to the cornice1 and small loops or rings are put down the seams of the breadths1 at equal distances 7say about four nails from each other74 ,through these rings are passed cords which unite in one long cord1 and on pulling this cord1 the whole curtain draws up1 forming as many festoons as there are breadths1 or rather lengths of rings down it4 ,this cord must be wound round and round two pins or hooks placed at the side of the window1 at about six nails apart4 ,other curtains are passed backwards and forwards like bed-curtains1 or have a cord on each side1 to draw them separately2 in which case1 it is passed through all the rings1 being fastened to the last or innermost ring4 ,,muslin ,,curtains4 ,these are put within the outer curtains in drawing-rooms1 dining-rooms1 and sometimes even for bed-rooms4 ,they serve as a great shade to the best curtains1 both from dust and sun1 and have besides a neat1 clean1 and rather dress appearance4 ,many persons take down their chintz curtains when they put up muslin ones4 ,muslin curtains are generally made of book-muslin1 though sometimes mull or jaconet have been employed4 ,they are made with deep hems and rings at the top1 and so arranged as to fall towards the inside of the window4 ,curtains are sometimes knit or net of cotton1 they look very neat and pretty1 and are besides very durable4 ,,little ,,half ,,curtains4 ,,plate #bc4 ,these are much in use for the lower windows of town houses1 to prevent persons from looking into the rooms1 and are generally made to reach half way up to the second pane1 or merely to the first4 ,they are made of muslin1 or a kind of canvass1 and sometimes1 though very rarely of chintz4 ,,full ,,curtain4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,this is simply cut in as many breadths as wanted to full it to the window1 a frill is made near the top by turning down a nail or more1 and making a runner1 into which the tape is run1 to draw it up to the size required1 this tape is looped at each end and fastened on to two hooks at the sides4 ,,rod ,,curtain4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,this is a favourite and very neat pattern1 and is made by sewing six or more breadths together according to the size of the window1 of eight or ten nails deep4 ,they are hemmed at the top and bottom1 and two gilt or wooden rods are passed through the hems1 fulling the curtain well upon them1 after which1 the rods exactly fit into the window frames4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,by way of variety these rods are sometimes put in at the sides1 instead of top and bottom4 ,,plate #bc4 ,sometimes these curtains are fixed in a frame1 exactly to fit the width of the window1 in which case they are often starred like a bed foot board1 and look exceedingly neat and pretty4 ,,window ,,blinds4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,these are generally made of linen or long lawn1 and sometimes of ,holland1 calico1 painted print1 green canvass or gauze1 or calimanco4 ,if possible1 procure the material of the exact breadth of the window1 allowing for a good turning in1 to herring-bone down1 as blinds wear and set far better without seams1 and with the side herring-boned4 ,they should have tape loops or a case for the rod to slip in1 and not be nailed on1 as the blind is so apt to wear and tear when taken off for washing4 ,sometimes a small ring is fastened to the blind at the bottom on each side1 through which a cord runs1 and is nailed tightly top and bottom of the window1 this contrivance always makes the blind draw up straightly4 ,a hem is made at the bottom1 to admit of the stick1 and a cord and tassel generally fastened to the middle1 by which it may be drawn down4 ,a cord moving round a pulley at the top1 and a window crank at the bottom1 enable it to be drawn up and down at pleasure4 ,,chair1 ,,sofa1 ,,and ,,other ,,covers4 ,when chairs and sofas are fitted up with damask1 merino1 stuff1 horse hair1 or other material that does not wash1 they are generally covered with ,holland1 chintz1 or glazed calico1 which protects them from dust and dirt1 and are easily removed1 when required for company4 ,holland covers are the most durable1 but look cold2 chintz1 unless very strong1 should be lined with thin glazed calico4 ,the cover should be made exactly to fit the chair or sofa1 with or without piping at the edge1 and with loops sewed on three of the sides underneath1 and a pair of strings on the fourth side2 the cover is firmly fastened down by passing one of the strings through the three loops1 and making it tie4 ,ottomans generally have the covers to fit along beneath the edging of wood1 in which case1 they must be pinned to the stuffing with very strong pins1 which from their length are called sofa pins4 ,,arm ,,chairs4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,it is a good plan to make a kind of case of ,holland to fit half way down the cushion1 ,a ,b ,c ,d1 which protects the cover from being soiled by the head1 on leaning back4 ,each arm chair should have two or three of these cases for wash and wear4 ,,sofas4 ,these1 besides being covered1 should have a length of ,holland of one breadth1 and about one yard1 or more long1 for the feet of any person lying down to be placed upon4 ,where there is an invalid in the house1 constantly resting upon the sofa1 it is very desirable to make a little flat pillow1 put into a muslin cover1 frilled all round1 to lay the head upon1 thus keeping the cushions perfectly clean and neat4 ,,divan4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,this is a kind of long sofa1 without either back or sides1 and may be made to open1 which forms a very convenient box for large engravings1 drawings1 c41 c4 ,the cover should be all in one piece behind1 but in front1 and at the sides1 the top should be unconnected with the lower part1 to admit of its opening1 so that in fact1 the cover must look as much like a box that opens as possible2 loops sewed to the edge might fix it into some hooks inside4 ,these divans are very useful for bed-rooms1 and would hold bonnets or furs1 or mourning1 or any thing else1 and at the same time1 act as a sofa also4 ,,footstools ,,and ,,hassocks4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,these are made in various ways1 and may be got up very cheaply at home4 ,the most simple and one of the prettiest for a bed-room or even a sitting-room is a cloth or velvet hassock braided over1 or otherwise ornamented4 ,it is cut circular both top and bottom1 a straight side is sewed in between1 and ears or handles fastened on1 by which they may be carried4 ,these are very soft for young children to sit upon4 ,,another ,,kind4 ,this is made of two or four bricks tied firmly together1 wrapped round with strong sacking1 and then neatly covered with cloth1 and if not in good shape a little extra stuffing may be added4 ,these footstools are very useful for nurseries1 school-rooms1 or for servants at work4 ,,church ,,basses4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,flat circular ones are often in use4 ,sometimes straw ones are covered with green or crimson cloth1 and look very neat4 ,basses may be filled with mill-puff1 straw1 chaff1 bran1 or bits of cloth1 c4 ,some persons prefer a simple cushion or flat pillow to kneel upon1 in which case1 they may be filled with feathers4 ,,church ,,seats4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,church pews are generally lined with cloth1 and fastened by brass nails and binding laid on4 ,the cushions1 ,plate #bc1 ,fig4 #bd1 are oblong1 and made like a very soft mattress4 ,they have pieces of cloth1 bound round and sewed to them in front1 to give an air of comfort and neatness to the seat4 ,the ground or floor is generally covered with a drugget of the same colour as the lining of the seat4 ,,table ,,covers4 ,these may be made variously at home1 or else cloth or linen covers may be procured at the mercers' shops4 ,those made at home are generally of cloth or silk1 and sometimes1 though very rarely1 of satin or velvet4 ,cloth ones are generally bound with binding1 and a lace laid on at a nail from the edging4 ,velvet1 cut in leaves or patterns1 is sometimes laid on2 different kinds of coloured cloth1 cut in the shape of oak leaves1 or according to taste1 sewed on round the edge look very pretty4 ,patchwork of silks on a black ground also looks handsome4 ,,screens4 ,,plate #bc4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,these may be made by merely hemming a piece of rich silk at the top1 through which a rod is passed1 which is secured to the pole of the screen4 ,the bottom of this silk is hemmed neatly and has a deep fringe set on4 ,the silk should be a good deal fulled1 when on the rod1 to look handsome4 ,others are made by plaiting or fluting rich silk in straight lines1 ,fig4 #bb1 or to radiate from the centre1 which is confined within a frame of rosewood or mahogany4 ,large folding screens are made for putting near to doors1 to prevent draughts of air1 and are useful to place near a warm bath1 especially for infants or delicate persons1 so as to enable them to dress free from cold air3 small screens of two folds are very convenient to place by every washing stand1 when two persons occupy the same room4 ,the frames1 after being made by a carpenter1 should be finished up at home4 ,they are usually covered with canvass1 ,holland1 calimanco1 chintz1 twill1 or other material4 ,black ,holland looks very neat4 ,these screens make very good scrap books for children1 by being pasted over with riddles1 prints1 caricatures1 c41 c4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,on ,,covers1 ,,cases1 c41 c4 ,,night-,,gown ,,bag4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,this is made of ,holland1 calico1 or thick cambric1 or glazed muslin1 and sometimes trimmed all round with a frill1 or piped with coloured calico4 ,it is intended to contain the night-gown1 cap1 also the dressing-gown1 and perhaps a change of linen1 and the tidy or dressing-case1 and may be made to any size1 according to the number of things it is intended to contain4 ,its chief use is in travelling1 especially in a large family1 when the separate case1 containing each individual's night things are easily found together1 and as easily put up in a large carpet bag4 ,each bag should bear either the name or the initials of the person to whom it belongs4 ,a ,,travelling ,,dressing-,,case ,,or ,,tidy4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,these are most useful things1 and no one who has once used them will travel without them1 unless they can conveniently carry a dressing-case with them4 ,they are made of ,russia duck1 ticking1 or stamped cloth1 or any other firm material4 ,in making up1 the greatest exactness is required to make the parts fit truly4 ,the back1 which is all in one piece1 is lined with strong calico1 and the various pockets are then laid on1 the bottom of one being sewed a little below where the top of the next will come1 so that the whole has a neat appearance3 the sizes of the pockets1 given in the ,plate1 allow for this wrapping over4 ,the top of each pocket is bound with purple or other coloured galloon1 and the divisions for the smaller ones are formed by stitching a piece of narrow galloon neatly down upon them4 ,the whole is then bound round with galloon1 and strings of the same colour fastened to the pointed end1 so as to tie round the dressing-case when it is full4 ,as purple galloon will wash well1 it is best for this purpose1 as most other colours fade4 ,on each pocket is written with marking ink1 the name of the article to be contained in it2 these of course differ according to the fancy of the owner1 but the most usual are curl papers in the triangular pocket at the top1 ,h for hair-pins1 ,w for thread1 tapes1 buttons1 c41 ,s for soap1 ,p for tooth-powder1 ,t for tooth-brush1 which ought also to be enclosed in an oil silk bag2 ,c for comb1 and ,b for hair brush4 ,illustration3 ,,plate #bd4 ,fig4 #a ,fig4 #b ,fig4 #c ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #e ,fig4 #f ,fig4 #g ,fig4 #h ,fig4 #i ,fig4 #aj ,fig4 #aa ,fig4 #ab ,fig4 #ac ,fig4 #ad ,fig4 #ae ,fig4 #af ,fig4 #ag ,fig4 #ah ,fig4 #ai ,fig4 #bj ,fig4 #ba ,fig4 #bb ,fig4 #bc ,fig4 #bd ,fig4 #be ,fig4 #bf ,fig4 #cd ,fig4 #bg ,fig4 #bh ,fig4 #cf ,fig4 #ce ,fig4 #bi ,fig4 #cj ,fig4 #ca ,fig4 #cg ,fig4 #ch ,fig4 #ci ,fig4 #dj ,fig4 #cb ,fig4 #cc ,fig4 #db ,fig4 #dc ,fig4 #da ,fig4 #dd ,fig4 #de ,fig4 #df ,fig4 #di ,fig4 #ej ,fig4 #ec ,fig4 #dg ,fig4 #dh ,fig4 #ea ,fig4 #eb ,,glove ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,gloves easily become soiled1 if not covered carefully1 and as white gloves1 coloured1 and black should be kept in separate cases1 it is better to make bags for the express purpose of keeping them nicely4 ,it is also advantageous to buy several pairs at once1 as they are cheaper when sold by the dozen or half dozen4 ,for ladies' gloves1 take a strip of the material1 about four nails wide1 and five nails and a quarter long1 and pipe or bind it all round with coloured glazed calico1 or ribbon2 cut another strip1 one nail and three-quarters wide1 and nine nails long1 this is also piped and bound2 the ends may be finished according to fancy1 either left square1 rounded off1 or turned down to form a triangle4 ,crease both strips in half their length1 and lay the middle of the first strip crosswise upon the middle of the other1 so that the longest piece lies underneath1 after pinning them very evenly together1 stitch them firmly with small stitches in the piping1 so as not to be seen4 ,strings1 or a button and button-hole are fixed to the ends of the longest strip4 ,white gloves may be put between the two strips and the coloured ones above1 when they are laid in1 fold the side of the smallest piece over first1 then the long one1 and button it together4 ,on the outside mark the name1 and the colour of the gloves4 ,gentlemen's glove cases vary only in being larger4 ,,pocket ,,handkerchief ,,case1 ,,commonly ,,called ,,porte ,,mouchoir4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this is usually made of silk1 and is lined with muslin or sarsenet1 having perfume between the silk and the lining1 and when put in ladies drawers1 with the handkerchiefs laid in1 gives them an agreeable scent4 ,it consists either of one or two pockets1 generally the latter1 so that in folding up1 the case is merely doubled over4 ,the case is about four nails wide1 and if intended for double pockets1 nine nails and a half long1 each pocket being full four nails1 and allowing half a nail for turnings in1 and a nail space between them1 cut out the lining1 and two pieces of fine muslin the same size1 and lay them as follows3-- ,first the silk1 next one piece of muslin1 then sprinkle the scent freely all over it1 after which place the other piece of muslin1 and then the lining1 pin them evenly1 and run them round at the edges4 ,quilt it or not1 according to pleasure4 ,the quilting keeps the scent in place2 the ends are turned up the two nails on each side1 and the whole is bound with ribbon4 ,sometimes the initials of the owner are marked on the outside4 ,for a suitable perfume1 see ,receipt1 ,no4 #ad4 ,,shoe ,,or ,,brush ,,and ,,comb ,,bag4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,these are very convenient in travelling1 as they save much paper1 and take up little room1 they are made of different materials1 according to the shoe to be put in4 ,if for walking shoes1 a coarse brown canvass called earn1 is the most suitable4 ,for house shoes1 calico or ,holland1 and for satin slippers1 old silk4 ,the bags are made to draw up at one end in the usual way1 and should be just wide enough to contain the shoes1 but as they are useful to put in one's muff1 or to carry in the hand when going out to dine or spend the day1 it is as well to leave sufficient space at the top for a pair of stockings above the shoe4 ,the name of the owner1 and the quality of the shoe1 should be put outside4 ,,another ,,shoe ,,bag4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,this is a better shape for large shoes or ladies' boots1 as they lie flatter when packed in separate pockets4 ,the bag is therefore back-stitched up the middle1 and a button put on for the upper flap to button upon4 ,a ,,mat4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,these are very useful to put on handsome tables1 or to use as kettle holders4 ,they are made with wool1 which forms a fringe similar to that on a rug4 ,procure a piece of coarse flannel1 the size wanted for the mat1 which must be hemmed or herring-boned down to make it firm at the edges4 ,choose a mesh of the width required for the depth of the fringe1 and then after fastening the wool at one of the outer corners1 commence working by carrying the wool round the mesh and fastening the loop thus made by a cross-stitch to the flannel4 ,observe always to work along the thread1 to keep it straight1 and make the fringe lie very much thicker at the corners4 ,continue working1 never fastening off1 letting the second square be about four or five threads from the outer one1 and connected at the corners to the outer square by fringe added diagonally4 ,this makes the comers full and handsome4 ,when the fringe is all sewed on1 fasten off1 and then proceed to cut the fringe neatly all round1 and with the scissors spread it out1 or comb it1 to make it look rich and full4 ,afterwards procure some stiff muslin or buckram and tack it behind1 and then sew on neatly the silk or glazed calico lining1 and the mat is complete4 ,,boot ,,bags4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,these are very useful for gentlemen whose boots take much room when wrapped in paper1 which they often burst1 and soil the clean linen2 a boot when packed is generally rolled up from the top about half the leg1 the bag should be made to fit it when thus rolled1 and is on an average1 about the following size3-- ,the width at the top of the case1 about three nails4 ,the width at the bottom1 about five nails4 ,the length of the case when doubled1 about four nails in front1 sloped down at the top to three nails and a quarter4 ,,nursery ,,bag4 ,this is used by nurses while travelling1 and is very convenient for the purpose of carrying infants' soiled linen4 ,the bag should be of dark coloured silk1 or washing material1 made in two divisions1 and lined throughout with oiled silk1 or ,indian rubber cloth1 so as to be waterproof4 ,they should be six nails wide1 and five or six nails deep4 ,the oil-silk bag should be made to draw out of the silk or outer bag4 ,the one pocket or division holds the soiled linen1 and the other pocket contains a damp sponge4 ,,book ,,cover4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,bibles or other valuable books are often covered with cloth1 leather1 wash leather1 ,holland1 c41 and for books in every day use it is far better than wrapping them in paper4 ,purple or claret coloured cloth looks very handsome1 and when bound with ribbon1 ribbon strings1 and the initials marked outside1 it looks finished and particularly neat4 ,the case is merely a long piece of cloth of the width of the book1 and of such a length as to lie outside1 and turn in a piece to cover the inside of each flap with the book shut about two-thirds of the way4 ,the book1 when shut1 takes more than when open1 therefore it should be measured when shut4 ,,another ,,book ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,this is a simple cover made usually of leather or ,holland4 ,one piece is sufficient to go before and behind the book1 allowing an extra piece for a flap to turn over4 ,two strips for side-pieces complete the case4 ,if of leather1 the pieces are back-stitched neatly together2 but if of ,holland1 c41 the sides are bound up with ribbon4 ,,another ,,book ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #aj1 #aa4 ,this is made with a regular lid1 as in the drawing1 and buttons over4 ,fig4 #aa has fly pieces or bits1 to lay over the book1 but beneath the outer flap or lid4 ,a ,,trunk ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ab4 ,this is made of coarse sacking or earn1 and is most useful for covering large trunks1 and is composed simply of two lengths of the stuff1 laid one across the other1 and stitched firmly together1 exactly where they fall upon each other1 forming an oblong or square of back-stitching1 as in the ,plate1 of the size of the bottom of the trunk4 ,four holes should be made in one of the sides1 on which the direction card may be more easily fastened 7see ,a74 ,the ends are turned down with a broad hem1 and button-holes made on the hems of the two ends1 ,b and ,c1 and at two or more nails from the hem at the opposite sides4 ,in packing up the trunk1 it is simply laid upon the back-stitched square of the sacking1 and the sides being turned up1 two at a time1 they are laced up with cord1 without the trouble of getting a packing needle and sewing it up every time4 ,a ,,knife ,,or ,,fork ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ac4 ,this is usually made of green baize1 and is used for wrapping up knives and forks 7both steel and dessert or silver71 when not in daily use4 ,the knives are put in one case and the forks in another4 ,these cases are made out of half or a whole breadth of the baize1 according to the width4 ,after cutting sufficient length to hold six or twelve knives1 allowing at one end enough to tie over1 cut it at the top straight from ,a to ,b1 which is to turn over as a side flap1 and shape the rest from ,b to ,c1 in a semi-circular form4 ,cut another long strip of baize1 half the width of from ,b to ,c1 lay it along and stitch it down at proper equal distances1 and when done1 bind it along the outer edge1 and all round the case4 ,the knives are then put in1 with the blades between the pieces of baize4 ,the flap turns over the handles1 the whole rolls up1 and is finally tied round with strings1 sewed at the circular end4 ,a ,,sachet ,,or ,,card ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ad4 ,this is very similar in shape to the porte mouchoir1 excepting that four little gores or hinges are put in at the sides of the pockets1 to enable it to open wider and contain more cards 7see ,a74 ,this hinge should be creased in two1 after being sewed in1 and when once creased well1 will always set properly4 ,they are made of morocco paper1 silk1 rich satin1 or velvet4 ,a piece of flannel or demet may be put between the outside and the lining4 ,they are sometimes embroidered or braided round the edge1 with the initials or crest put in the middle4 ,a cord or twist is sometimes put round the edge1 to give a finish4 ,a ,,candlestick ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,covers for bed-room candlesticks1 teapots1 cream jugs1 sugar basins1 dish covers1 salvers1 and indeed all plated or silver articles may either be made to the shape or circular4 ,the advantage of the latter plan is1 that by hemming it round and putting in a string1 it will draw up and suit any shaped article1 whereas cases made to fit one particular article will do for no other4 ,a ,,nosegay ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,flowers1 especially geraniums1 are apt sadly to injure the dress and waistband when worn2 it is therefore very useful to put flower stalks in a kind of case1 similar to a scissors sheath1 which protects the dress completely4 ,it should be cut out of card-board1 in the shape of a wide scissors sheath1 and covered all over with silk4 ,a ,,wool ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,this is made of thin muslin or of ,holland1 and is most useful for holding and preserving wools4 ,it is made something like a housewife1 having runners for the wool1 side by side4 ,the wools should be put in in shades and numbered2 each colour might have six or seven shades allowed1 so that it would require a long piece to admit three or four colours1 with their various shades4 ,the flaps at both ends turn over1 the whole rolls up when not in use1 and ties round4 ,,another ,,wool ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #cd1 #ce4 ,this is made to resemble thread papers1 and is usually formed of muslin4 ,it is plaited along1 or doubled1 like ,fig4 #ce1 and all the doubles sewed along together1 thus forming a bunch of runners1 for the wool to be drawn through4 ,a ,,housewife4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ai1 #bj1 #ba4 ,this is made of leather1 stamped paper1 silk1 ribbon1 satin1 velvet1 white dimity1 ,holland1 or any other material1 even common print4 ,two pieces1 the size of ,a ,b ,c ,d1 are first of all cut out and back-stitched along1 to form the thread runners1 after which1 another piece1 ,e ,f ,g ,h1 is cut out1 and the places for the scissors1 bodkin1 c4 made1 and then a long strip is cut1 not only sufficient for the whole length1 but to turn over at the end to form a pocket4 ,the other pieces are neatly bound to it1 and the flannel or kerseymere for needles is added4 ,the initials may be put at the sloped end4 ,the case may wrap up like ,fig4 #ai or #bj4 ,a ,,yard ,,measure4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ba1 #bb4 ,this is very convenient1 from the small compass in which it goes1 when folded up4 ,it is similar to a carpenter's rule in shape1 and is marked with nails on one side and inches on the other4 ,,pincushions4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #bc1 #bd1 #be1 #bf1 #bg4 ,pincushions may be made of every variety of shape and material1 and stuffed with bran1 wool1 hair1 flannel1 chaff1 c41 c4 ,fig4 #bc makes a very nice toilet pincushion1 and is circular at the top1 with a deep length sewed all round1 which is hemmed at the bottom2 it draws neatly beneath the cushion1 and ties firmly on it4 ,fig4 #bd is very neat for a toilet pincushion1 and is made to button and unbutton from beneath4 ,fig4 #be4 ,another very neat toilet pincushion1 made with a fringe or frill round it4 ,sometimes the cushion is of glazed calico or coloured silk1 and the cover of muslin1 with a handsome worked edging all round4 ,these are very handsome for spare rooms1 but too good for daily use4 ,the colour of the cushion ought to correspond with the paper or drapery of the room4 ,fig4 #bf is a flat pocket pincushion1 and may be circular1 square1 diamond1 oblong1 or any other shape4 ,cut out the form in two cards1 both of which are covered with silk4 ,flannel is put between1 and the two sides neatly sewed together4 ,fig4 #bg is a drawing-room pincushion1 usually made of silk or satin1 and is tufted like a mattress with bows or tufts of silk4 ,bows are attached to all the corners4 ,,bags4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #bh1 #bi1 #cj1 #ca1 #cb1 #cc4 ,bags are made of silk1 satin1 velvet1 and many other materials1 and are almost always lined2 in which case1 they are done in a similar manner to sleeves4 ,there is a great variety of shapes1 and they are trimmed with fringe1 lace1 ribbon1 silk cord1 c41 c4 ,the ,figures represent the shapes most in use at present1 and need little description4 ,fig4 #cb is a double bag1 being two pockets or bags1 which1 being sewed together up the sides and along the bottom1 form a third pocket between them1 which may either be left open1 or have a regular silk bag sewed above4 ,in one pocket may be kept pencil1 knife1 ,indian rubber1 and other writing materials2 in the other1 money1 bills1 memoranda1 c42 and in the middle part1 scissors1 thimble1 cotton1 and other materials for work4 ,,needle ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,this is made of a strip of kerseymere1 one nail and a quarter wide1 which is marked out in the required number of divisions1 to separate the different sized needles from each other4 ,each space between the divisions should be half or three-quarters of a nail1 so that the length of the strip must depend upon the number and size of these divisions4 ,after fixing upon the length and width1 cutting off the strip1 and marking in pencil the lines for the divisions1 work over the lines in chain-stitch in silk1 or lay on braid1 marking at the top of each space1 the number of the needles to be put in2 then bind the kerseymere down with some broad ribbon1 which serves likewise for the back of the case4 ,this ribbon should be stiff and rich1 and when turned over the edges of the kerseymere1 should be back-stitched down very neatly4 ,the end of the strip is usually rounded1 as in the ,plate1 and the initials worked on4 ,ribbons1 or a button and loop are attached to the end1 to fasten it up by4 ,,work ,,basket4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,these are very pretty1 light1 and useful4 ,purchase a suitable size1 of the shape of the pattern1 about twelve inches long1 eight wide1 and three and a half deep1 or smaller1 are the usual sizes4 ,as they look neater and keep better when painted1 it is advisable to send them to the coach-maker's to be coloured the shade desired 7the darker1 the more handsome72 when quite dry1 procure a good silk of a suitable colour1 and also satin ribbon to match1 of two-thirds of a nail wide1 and line the basket1 putting first muslin1 and then a layer of fine flannel1 and afterwards silk4 ,it should be made exactly to fit1 and be quilted in some pretty pattern all over1 after which1 the satin ribbon1 neatly quilled1 is sewed round at the top4 ,sometimes ladies put little pockets or bags all round1 to contain a knife1 scissors1 money1 pincushion1 c4 ,,travelling ,,bag4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,a travelling bag is very useful for ladies1 when taking long journeys1 especially when they are fond of working or sketching while in the carriage4 ,the ,fig4 represents both sides of the bag complete1 excepting that it requires the sides to be sewed up4 ,it is thus laid open1 or unsewed1 in order to explain the plan more clearly4 ,the bag should be made of rich strong silk1 and on one side pockets are made to contain as follows3-- ,a4 ,needle-book or housewife4 ,b4 ,scissors4 ,c4 ,work and cotton4 ,d4 ,pocket for money4 ,e4 ,ditto for watch1 or gold1 c4 ,on the other side1 the pockets are as follows3-- ,f4 ,for a note book1 or journal4 ,g4 ,for two pencils4 ,h4 ,sketch book4 ,i4 ,rules4 ,j4 ,knife4 ,a piece of ,indian rubber is fastened to a bit of galloon and confined to one end of the bag4 ,the pockets should be put in rather lower from the top than is represented in the ,plate1 else the bag will not close neatly1 when the strings are drawn4 ,,school ,,girl',s ,,badge4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,this band is made of webbing1 black tape1 calimanco1 or any other firm material4 ,to the middle of the band is attached a square piece of pasteboard1 or tin covered with flannel and calimanco1 on which the girl's number is marked4 ,on this band are put several strings of galloon or tape1 to which are tied scissors1 keys1 pincushion1 c4 ,a simple band of ,holland1 or tape would be very useful for servants1 especially housekeepers1 lady's maids1 and house-maids1 to attach the keys belonging to their department1 also scissors1 cushion1 pencil1 c4 ,these bands might have button-holes1 or large oylet-holes worked in them1 to receive the ribbons to which the things are attached1 and they should be made to button neatly behind4 ,shoulder-straps might be added of the same material4 ,,carriage ,,case1 ,,or ,,porte ,,folio4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,this is very useful for those ladies who drive about constantly in a town1 and who have much shopping1 or many calls1 c4 to make4 ,the left hand side of the case marked ,a1 is a porte folio to carry paper1 bills1 c4 with a long pencil at the side1 which1 when the book or case is shut1 secures the two sides together1 by being passed through the loops4 ,the other side is made with two pockets above1 at ,b1 for visiting cards1 one pocket below ,c1 for a rule1 and crossed narrow ribbons between1 to hold bills1 c4 in4 ,this case may be made of leather1 cloth1 or stamped paper1 and should be laid on millboard1 or pieces of tin to form the sides4 ,,travelling ,,porte ,,folio4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #da4 ,this is convenient for travelling1 when there is not sufficient room for a desk2 it is made of card or book board1 and covered with black silk or paper4 ,under the part marked ,a1 is a porte folio for paper1 the two parts being connected together by means of a wide ribbon all round4 ,the four flaps lay over and tie across with ribbon4 ,on the part1 ,a1 are places for sealing wax1 pencil1 pens1 knife and paper knife1 all in one1 and at the corner a piece of ribbon sewed on in a circle1 and made to draw up like a bag1 to contain wafers4 ,,seaman',s ,,or ,,traveller',s ,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #db1 #dc4 ,this sort of case is very useful for men in all classes when travelling1 and for school boys1 and is usually made of ,russia duck1 or of leather2 it is one yard long1 and about one nail and a half or two nails wide4 ,the pockets and thread-case must all be prepared before sewing them to the back4 ,a is divided1 according to the ,plate1 for the thread case as in a housewife1 it is about four nails long1 and has two flaps1 ,c and ,b1 at the ends1 to keep the thread neat4 ,the flap1 ,c1 is finished inside1 as seen in ,fig4 #dc1 with boot hooks1 c41 c4 ,the thread should be strong white1 strong black1 whitey brown1 carpet thread1 pack thread1 and other kinds1 also white and black silk4 ,d is a square pincushion with divisions for scissors1 tweezers1 stiletto1 c4 ,inside this pocket should slip a needle-book and sticking plaister case1 both in one2 the flaps of ,e ,f ,g ,h1 all hook and eye down to their respective pockets1 which contain fish-hooks1 buttons1 hooks and eyes1 c41 c4 ,,gentleman',s ,,travelling ,,dressing-,,case4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,this is made of leather of any length1 according to the number of things put in4 ,it should be the width of the longest of the articles to be put in 7say the razors74 ,a row of divisions of the proper sizes are made by a strap of leather carried all along the case in which the razor strop1 boot hooks1 razors1 scissors1 knife1 tweezers1 pencil1 tooth brush case1 shaving brush1 and soap case are put4 ,the flaps fold over1 and the whole wraps up and ties round4 ,the articles should be bought before the case is made1 as the divisions can then be formed exactly to fit4 ,,watch ,,pocket4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #de4 ,these may be made of silk or cambric muslin4 ,the one here represented is composed of one large and two small pockets1 the latter are to hold the watch and smelling bottle1 and the large pocket is for the handkerchief4 ,the large pocket is supported by three runners of whalebone or ribbon wire4 ,these should be put in so as easily to draw out1 if the watch pocket is of a washing material4 ,whalebone is also put at the top of each of the three pockets4 ,the whole should be frilled round or ornamented with narrow lace or fringe4 ,the size must greatly depend upon the size of the bed1 but five nails long by four deep is a good average size for a large bedstead4 ,,another ,,watch ,,pocket4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #df4 ,this is the usual shape1 and intended merely to contain the watch4 ,they may be made of silk1 dimity1 ribbon1 or any other material4 ,some are composed of bed-ticking1 which is worked in the light stripe with coloured silk in chain-stitch1 herring-boning1 or any other fancy stitch4 ,they are ornamented round with fringe1 lace1 or frilling4 ,,an ,,invalid',s ,,chair4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,this is very convenient for carrying invalids about when they have lost the use of their legs1 especially for conveying them down steps1 to the carriage1 c4 ,the two outer pieces of wood should be of beech or some other strong kind1 to which handles may be attached4 ,these pieces of wood are connected together by four or more pieces of very strong double webbing1 between which three strips of strong wood are firmly secured4 ,when used1 a simple cushion is put upon this webbing1 and two servants1 one on each side1 can carry it with ease and safety4 ,when not in use1 it can be rolled up in a very little compass4 ,it is particularly useful for invalids while travelling4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,receipts4 ,the following receipts have all been tried either by the ,authoress herself1 or by her immediate friends1 and are thoroughly to be depended upon4 ,a few have been introduced not immediately connected with the work-book1 but from their value1 no apology is necessary for their insertion4 ,no4 #a4 ,,permanent ,,ink ,,for ,,marking ,,linen4 #a ounce1 #e drachms1 #a scruple of lunar caustic nitrate of silver1 #b ounces of gum arabic1 powdered1 #a pint of distilled water1 an ounce of sap green4 ,for the liquid pounce with which the linen is wetted1 previously to the application of the ink1 mix #d ounces of carbonate of soda1 #b ounces of powdered gum arabic1 #a pint of distilled water1 and a little cochineal1 to colour it4 ,in marking linen1 after applying the liquid pounce with a common small bristle brush1 to the part which is to receive the mark1 and wetting it very well1 let it dry by the fire1 and then after rubbing it with a glass calender or glazing stone1 to make it smooth1 mark it with a fine hard steel pen4 ,it should then be exposed to the air1 which makes the letters turn quite black4 ,the place should be washed soon after it is dry1 as the liquid pounce injures the linen1 if left on it long4 ,no4 #b4 ,,permanent ,,red ,,marking ,,ink4 ,take half an ounce of vermillion1 and a drachm of salt of steel1 let them be finely levigated with linseed oil to the thickness required4 ,the mixture must be well shaken before used4 ,inks of various colours may be made1 by using sap green1 ,prussian blue1 gamboge1 c4 instead of vermillion4 ,no4 #c4 ,,to ,,remove ,,marking ,,ink ,,from ,,linen4 ,when linen is erroneously marked or spotted with marking ink1 an application of chloride of lime with either cold or hot water1 will efface it4 ,it should be applied over and over again till the marks are obliterated2 but as the chloride of lime spoils linen1 it is advisable to wash the part well1 immediately after each application1 so as to prevent its eating away the linen4 ,chloride of lime being poisonous1 the mixture should be carefully thrown away after being used4 ,no4 #d4 ,,to ,,remove ,,common ,,ink ,,from ,,clothes1 c4 ,rub the place immediately with lemon juice1 and hot soap and water1 and if this does not succeed1 have recourse to salts of lemon1 which seldom fails4 ,no4 #e4 ,,salts ,,of ,,lemon4 ,they are used to remove ink and iron-moulds from linen1 calico1 all articles of dress and furniture1 and even from wood1 books1 c4 ,it is made as follows3-- ,a quarter of a pound of salts of sorrel1 ,a quarter of a pound of cream of tartar1 ,well mixed and rubbed together in a mortar1 and it is then ready for use4 ,it should be kept locked up1 the salts of sorrel being a strong poison4 ,in using salts of lemon to an inked carpet or table1 merely rub it on with the top of the finger1 having previously dipped it in hot water4 ,if it is a piece of linen1 or an article of dress that has been inked1 it is best to stretch it over a pewter or other vessel full of hot water1 and when wetted through with the steam1 apply a small quantity of the salts on the ink or iron-mould1 rubbing it well at the same time with the finger1 and a spot will1 on repeating the application1 disappear4 ,no4 #f4 ,,to ,,take ,,out ,,ink1 ,,when ,,salts ,,of ,,lemon ,,are ,,not ,,at ,,hand4 ,dip the spotted part into some melted tallow from a mould candle4 ,send it to the wash thus greased1 and it will return clean and white4 ,of course this is only applicable to articles that will wash4 ,no4 #g4 ,,to ,,remove ,,ink ,,from ,,cloth ,,or ,,carpets4 ,take up the ink instantly with a spoon1 and pour on water in abundance1 while still applying the spoon constantly1 till it is removed2 rub afterwards a bit of lemon upon the place1 which will brighten any colour that may be deadened4 ,no4 #h4 ,,bleaching ,,liquid ,is used to remove iron-moulds1 or restore discoloured linen1 and calico to its former whiteness4 ,pour it into a basin1 one part of the liquid to six parts of water2 the cloth is dipped into it1 allowed to lie in it1 and well rubbed1 till the mark is effaced1 when the part is washed in clear water4 ,the bleaching liquid is made as follows3-- ,a solution of chloride of carbonate of soda2 this cannot be procured in powder1 but a preparation of lime in powder can be had1 which will do equally well4 ,unless much diluted1 this is apt to injure the texture of the linen4 ,another receipt for making it is the following3-- ,chloride of lime1 the powder to be put into water1 a part of it will dissolve1 and a part will not2 decant the clear fluid1 and keep it in a dark place4 ,the powder is apt to attract moisture from the air1 and to lose its chlorine by exposure1 it must be kept in a bottle with a glass stopper1 as it corrodes corks4 ,no4 #i4 ,,to ,,remove ,,stains ,,made ,,by ,,acids4 ,wet the part1 and lay on it some salt of wormwood2 rub it1 without diluting it with more water4 ,no4 #aj4 ,,another ,,receipt4 ,let the cloth imbibe a little water without putting it in1 and hold the part over a lighted match at a proper distance1 to avoid its catching fire4 ,the spots will be removed by the sulphureous gas4 ,no4 #aa4 ,,another ,,receipt4 ,tie up in the stained part1 some pearl ash1 then scrape some soap into cold soft water1 to make a lather1 and boil the linen till the stains disappear4 ,no4 #ab4 ,,to ,,remove ,,stains ,,of ,,wine1 ,,fruit1 c4 ,,when ,,they ,,have ,,been ,,long ,,in ,,linen4 ,rub the part on each side with yellow soap1 then lay on a mixture of starch with cold water1 very thick1 like paste2 rub it in well1 and expose the linen to the sun and air till the stain comes out2 if not removed in three or four days1 take the starch off1 and renew the process4 ,when dry1 sprinkle it again with water1 and send it to the wash4 ,many other stains may be taken out by dipping the linen in sour buttermilk1 and drying it in a hot sun1 then wash and dry it two or three times in the day4 ,no4 #ac4 ,,to ,,remove ,,stains ,,of ,,port ,,wine4 ,directly the wine is spilt1 spread common salt all over the stain1 and wash it with water4 ,no4 #ad4 ,,to ,,take ,,stains ,,out ,,of ,,scarlet ,,cloth4 ,take soap wort1 bruise it1 strain out the juice1 and add to it a small quantity of black soap1 wash the stains a few times with this liquor1 suffering the cloth to dry between1 and in a day or two they will disappear4 ,no4 #ae4 ,,to ,,take ,,stains ,,out ,,of ,,black ,,cloth1 ,,silk1 ,,crape1 c4 ,boil a handful of fig-leaves in two quarts of water1 until reduced to a pint2 squeeze the leaves1 take them out1 and put the liquid into a bottle for use4 ,the articles need only be rubbed with a sponge dipped in it1 and the stains will soon disappear4 ,when black is stained by fruit or other acids1 the spotted part turns yellow or red1 touch it with a little spirits of hartshorn1 which immediately restores the colour4 ,no4 #af4 ,,scouring ,,drops ,are used to remove stains and grease from all silks2 they are rubbed on with a bit of flannel1 and generally answer perfectly well4 ,they are prepared as follows3-- ,mix equal quantities of spirits of turpentine1 and essence of lemons4 ,no4 #ag4 ,,to ,,remove ,,grease ,,from ,,silk4 ,rub it for some time with a split card1 or a piece of cap paper1 or if much greased1 lay under it a piece of soft paper1 or blotting paper1 and the same over it1 and place a warm iron upon it1 which causes the paper to imbibe the grease from the silk2 after repeating this1 taking care each time the iron is applied to furnish clean bits of paper1 then rub it with split card1 or soft paper4 ,cloth may be cleaned in the same way4 ,or1 dip a clean piece of flannel into spirits of turpentine1 and rub the spots until they disappear2 the silk should not be made very wet with turpentine1 or it will lose its lustre4 ,no4 #ah4 ,,another ,,receipt4 ,rub the part with ,french chalk1 or with part of the back of the cuttle fish scraped1 which may be bought at the druggists for one penny each4 ,no4 #ai4 ,,liquid ,,for ,,removing ,,spots ,,of ,,grease1 ,,pitch1 ,,or ,,oil ,,from ,,linen ,,and ,,clothes4 ,in a pint of spring water1 dissolve an ounce of pure pearl ash1 add to the solution a lemon cut in small slices4 ,this being properly mixed and kept in a warm state for two days1 the whole must be strained1 and the clear liquid kept in a bottle for use4 ,a little of this mixture being poured on the stained part1 removes all spots of grease1 pitch1 or oil1 and the moment they disappear1 the cloth is washed in clear water4 ,no4 #bj4 ,,to ,,remove ,,grease ,,from ,,silk ,,or ,,woollen4 ,mix together three ounces of spirits of wine1 three ounces of ,french chalk powdered1 and five ounces of pipe clay4 ,rub the mixture on the stain1 either wet or dry1 and afterwards take it off with a brush4 ,sometimes an equal quantity of spirits of turpentine and pipe clay mixed1 and used as above1 will have the desired effect4 ,this will remove stains from silk1 woollen or cotton4 ,no4 #ba4 ,,portable ,,balls ,,for ,,removing ,,grease ,,spots4 ,dry fuller's earth so as to crumble easily into powder1 and moisten it well with lemon juice1 add a small quantity of pure pulverized pearl ash1 and work the whole up into a thick paste2 roll it up into small balls1 let them dry in the heat of the sun1 and they will be ready for use4 ,the manner of using them is by moistening with water the spots on the cloth1 rubbing the ball upon them1 and leaving them to dry in the sun2 on washing the places with water1 and very often1 with brushing alone1 the spots will disappear4 ,no4 #bb4 ,,to ,,take ,,out ,,mildew4 ,mix soft soap with powdered starch1 half as much salt1 and the juice of a lemon4 ,lay it on the mildewed part1 on both sides1 with a brush4 ,let it lie on the grass day and night till the stain comes out4 ,no4 #bc4 ,,to ,,take ,,out ,,iron-,,moulds4 ,rub them with sulphuret of potash2 then bathe them well with citric acid 7lemon acid71 afterwards wash the places well in water1 and the linens will be completely restored4 ,no4 #bd4 ,,to ,,remove ,,paint ,,spots ,,from ,,silk1 c4 ,apply spirits of turpentine repeatedly1 when the article is silk4 ,if it is muslin or linen1 cover it with butter1 and then wash it4 ,no4 #be4 ,,to ,,clean ,,silks ,,and ,,cottons ,,without ,,injury ,,to ,,their ,,colour ,,or ,,texture4 ,grate two or three raw potatoes into a pint of clean water1 and pass the liquid through a sieve1 when it has stood to settle1 pour off the clear part1 and it will be fit for use4 ,dip a clean sponge in the liquid1 and apply it to the silk till the dirt is well separated1 then wash it in pure water4 ,the coarse pulp of the potatoes which does not pass the sieve1 is of great use in cleaning worsted curtains1 carpets1 and other coarse goods4 ,no4 #bf4 ,,to ,,wash ,,black ,,silk ,,and ,,crape4 ,warm some small beer1 and mix some milk with it1 then sponge the silk with this liquid1 and it will freshen the colour very much4 ,a strong decoction of fig-leaves1 a little gin1 or spirits of wine1 will have an equally good effect4 ,no4 #bg4 ,,to ,,restore ,,rusty ,,silk4 ,boil some green tea in an iron pot1 nearly a cup full of tea to three quarts of water4 ,sponge the silk with it1 and iron it while damp4 ,no4 #bh4 ,,to ,,clean ,,bombazine4 ,use the liquid mentioned1 ,no4 #be1 and sponge the bombazine with it1 and then with water1 remembering to rub width-wise1 not selvage-wise1 or the bombazine will be frayed4 ,no4 #bi4 ,,composition ,,for ,,restoring ,,scorched ,,linen4 ,boil to a consistency two ounces of fuller's earth1 half an ounce of cake soap1 and the juice of two onions1 in half a pint of vinegar4 ,spread it over the damaged part1 and suffer it to dry on1 then give it one or two washings1 and if the scorching is not so great as to injure the threads1 the part will appear white and perfect4 ,no4 #cj4 ,,to ,,clean ,,calico ,,furniture4 ,shake off the loose dust1 and slightly brush it with a small long haired brush2 after which1 wipe it with clean flannels1 and rub it with dry old bread4 ,if well done1 the furniture will look nearly as well as at first4 ,bran is also an excellent cleanser4 ,while furniture remains up1 it should be preserved as much as possible from sun and air1 which injure delicate colours2 the dust may be blown off with bellows4 ,no4 #ca4 ,,to ,,clean ,,chintz4 ,chintz may be cleaned as follows3-- ,boil two pounds of rice in two gallons of water till it is soft1 when the whole is poured into a tub fit for use4 ,wash the chintz till it is quite clean in soap and water1 and then rinse it in the rice water1 which will act like starch4 ,in drying1 it must be hung very smoothly1 and rubbed with a glazed stone1 but not ironed4 ,an upper crust of bread or bran1 are very good for cleaning also4 ,no4 #cb4 ,,to ,,scour ,,carpets4 ,shake the carpet well4 ,dissolve one ounce and a half of alum in a quart of warm water1 also one ounce and a half of fuller's earth in another quart of warm water1 put a little of each into a bucket full of soft water1 adding a very little gall1 and rubbing in some common brown soap4 ,then wash a small piece of the carpet with a flannel dipped in this mixture1 so as to make it rather wet1 and to shew the colour1 brush it over with soap1 which must be well washed off1 and the carpet rubbed over with a coarse cloth4 ,then wash it over without soap1 and with water in which alum1 gall1 and fuller's earth are mixed1 and rub it as dry as possible with a cloth4 ,when the whole carpet is washed over in this manner1 piece by piece1 it will appear as fresh and bright as a new one4 ,the quantities here given are sufficient for a large sized carpet4 ,if a carpet is not very much soiled1 it may be cleaned by being first well shook and beaten1 and then scoured with gall1 and soap and water1 after which1 it must be laid on the grass1 or hung up to dry4 ,no4 #cc4 ,,to ,,wash ,,silk ,,handkerchiefs4 ,these must be first washed in cold water1 and the second lather must be only lukewarm1 then rinse them in cold water1 dry them gradually1 and send them to the mangle4 ,no4 #cd4 ,,to ,,wash ,,coloured ,,muslins1 ,,prints1 c4 ,coloured muslin1 washing silk handkerchiefs and aprons1 should have a little spirits of wine in the water1 about a dessert spoonful to a gallon4 ,for prints1 a little gall will fix the colours2 if the principal colour is lilac1 pearl ash put in the water will refresh it4 ,if green prevails1 put in a few half pence4 ,no4 #ce4 ,,to ,,make ,,linen ,,white ,,that ,,has ,,turned ,,yellow4 ,heat a gallon of milk over the fire1 and scrape into it one pound of cake soap1 when it is quite dissolved1 put the linen in1 and let it boil some time1 then take it out1 put it into a lather of hot water1 and wash it properly out4 ,no4 #cf4 ,,to ,,make ,,linen ,,washed ,,in ,,the ,,town ,,as ,,pure ,,and ,,white ,,as ,,that ,,washed ,,in ,,the ,,country4 ,in great towns where linen cannot be exposed to the air and sun upon the grass1 let it be steeped for some time before it is washed1 in a solution of oxmuriate of lime2 let it then be boiled in an alkaline lye4 ,linen or cotton thus treated1 will not become yellow from age1 as is too often the case with town washed linen4 ,no4 #cg4 ,,to ,,wash ,,china-,,crape ,,scarfs1 c4 ,make a strong lather of soap and boiling water1 suffer it to cool1 and when nearly cold1 wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly2 dip it immediately afterwards into cold hard water1 in which a little common salt has been thrown1 to preserve the colours2 rinse1 wring and hang it out to dry in the open air2 pin it at the extreme ends to the line1 so that it may not be folded together in any part4 ,the more rapidly it dries the clearer the colour will be4 ,no4 #ch4 ,,to ,,wash ,,blonde4 ,if the blonde be very narrow1 it should be slightly run to the edge of either net1 or old tulle1 in order to make it easier to iron1 tack it together in the same way that lace is done1 in a length of three or four nails1 and wash it clean1 in a light lather of white soap and water2 then put it into a basin in which there is powder blue mixed with cold water1 of a sufficiently deep colour to remove the yellow tinge of the soiled blonde4 ,the iron should be getting ready whilst the blonde lies in the blue water1 which must be a few minutes1 and it must only be taken out piece by piece1 to be pulled out and ironed whilst it is still damp4 ,the iron must be moderately warm4 ,the tulle1 which is spoiled by the washing1 is then taken off1 and the blonde will be found to have a brightness similar to new4 ,the following is another method1 which has been found to answer equally well3-- ,tack the blonde together as before2 prepare a lather of fine white soap and hot soft water1 in which a little powder blue is mixed4 ,dip the blonde into this hot water1 and squeeze it in the hand1 so that it shall be wetted through and through1 it should not be allowed to remain in the water1 lest the blue should settle upon it unequally4 ,when the colour is restored1 take it out1 and clap it between the hands1 while still folded1 until it is nearly dry1 when it must be opened out1 and ironed with a moderately hot iron4 ,no4 #ci4 ,,to ,,wash ,,lace4 ,the best methods of washing fine1 and valuable lace1 are as follows3-- ,take a pint bottle 7which is better than a larger one1 being more easily held71 wrap a piece of clean muslin or linen round it1 and fasten it with a few stitches1 then wind the lace round the bottle1 avoiding the neck1 and wash it in a light lather of white soap and water4 ,when it appears clean1 rinse it in fresh water1 and put the bottle in the sun1 or in a warm room1 to dry the lace4 ,on taking it off1 pull it out with the first and second finger and thumb1 taking care not to tear it1 at the same time to pull it open to its full width2 then lay it between the leaves of a blank book1 or pieces of thin card-board1 not allowing one piece to fold over another1 and put it under a weight1 till it is properly pressed4 ,the soap should be cut in thin slices1 and boiled in the water1 to make the lather2 this is particularly adapted to ,mechlin lace4 ,the following plan is chiefly useful for ,valenciennes or ,lisle lace1 or for the borders of infants' caps4 ,fold the piece of lace evenly backwards and forwards 7not round and round71 the length of about three or four nails1 and when done1 tack it together down the middle with long loose stitches2 then wash it thoroughly in a lather of white soap and water1 rinsing it repeatedly1 and squeezing it in clear water1 then1 while still wet1 dip it in a mixture ready prepared of beer and water in equal quantities1 let it remain about a minute1 and then wring it out4 ,it must now be unstitched1 and pulled out two or three times1 until nearly dry1 this must be done width-wise of the lace1 and very thoroughly4 ,lay it on a table covered with a linen cloth1 and glaze it with a glass calender1 or1 if one is not at hand1 with a glass phial bottle4 ,the beer gives the creamy colour of new lace1 and a little stiffness besides2 some persons dip it in water1 in which they put a little snuff tied up in a muslin bag1 to colour it1 instead of the beer4 ,starch should never be put into lace1 as it tears and spoils it4 ,no4 #dj4 ,,to ,,wash ,,kid ,,gloves4 ,kid gloves1 if they are good ones1 and have never been touched by ,indian rubber1 may be washed so as to look like new1 in the following manner2 and some will bear the operation more than once2 it answers equally well both for white and coloured gloves4 ,lay the gloves on a clean towel1 and with a piece of flannel dipped in warm water with a good deal of white soap1 rub them thoroughly till all the dirt is removed2 take care to use as little water as possible4 ,hang them up to dry gradually1 at a distance from the fire1 and the next morning1 they will appear shrivelled and yellow1 pull them out the cross way of the leather1 and they will soon resume their colour and shape4 ,no4 #da4 ,,to ,,clean ,,white ,,satin ,,shoes4 ,rub them with stale bread4 ,or rub them with a piece of new flannel dipped in spirits of wine4 ,no4 #db4 ,,to ,,keep ,,blonde1 ,,white ,,satin1 ,,silk1 c4 ,the above1 and all articles which are apt to be discoloured by lying by1 should be wrapped up and covered with the coarsest brown paper1 as the turpentine contained in it1 is an effectual preservation4 ,no4 #dc4 ,,to ,,dye ,,gloves ,,like ,,york-,,tan ,,or ,,limerick4 ,put some saffron into a pint of soft water boiling hot1 and let it infuse all night2 next morning1 wet the leather all over with a brush4 ,the tops should be previously sewed up1 to prevent the colour getting in4 ,no4 #dd4 ,,to ,,dye ,,white ,,gloves ,,to ,,purple4 ,boil four ounces of logwood1 and two ounces of rock alum1 in three pints of soft water1 till it is half wasted2 strain1 and let it stand till cold4 ,then wet the gloves all over with a brush dipped in this mixture1 and repeat it when dry4 ,twice is sufficient1 unless the colour is to be very dark4 ,when dry1 rub off the loose dye with a coarse cloth1 beat up the white of an egg1 and rub it over the gloves with a sponge4 ,the hands will be stained in the process of dyeing1 but wetting them with vinegar before they are washed1 will take it off4 ,no4 #de4 ,,wash ,,for ,,leather ,,gloves4 ,if you wish to have your gloves quite yellow1 take yellow ochre2 if quite white1 pipe clay2 if between the two1 mix a little of each2 if dark1 take rotten stone and fuller's earth4 ,by a proper mixture of these1 you may produce any shade you desire2 mix the colour you fix on with beer or vinegar1 not water1 and apply it to the gloves1 having previously washed them1 let them dry gradually1 rub and pull them out crosswise4 ,after applying the mixture equally all over1 let them dry very gradually1 not in the sun or near a fire1 lest they should shrink4 ,rub and pull them out before they are quite dry4 ,no4 #df4 ,,to ,,dye ,,cotton ,a ,,nankeen ,,colour4 ,keep old nails and rusty iron for fifteen days in good vinegar2 apply this dye to the cotton with a brush1 it will give an excellent colour1 which improves by washing4 ,no4 #dg4 ,,to ,,dye ,,the ,,linings ,,of ,,furniture ,,buff ,,or ,,salmon ,,colour1 ,,according ,,to ,,the ,,depth ,,of ,,the ,,hue4 ,rub down on a pewter plate two pennyworth of ,spanish annatto1 and then boil it in a pail of water a quarter of an hour4 ,put into it two ounces of potash1 stir it round1 and instantly put in the lining2 stir it about all the while it is boiling1 which must be five or six minutes2 then put it into cold pump water1 and hang the articles up singly without wringing2 when almost dry1 fold and mangle it4 ,,pink4 ,the calico must be washed extremely clean1 and dried4 ,then boiled in two gallons of soft water1 and four ounces of alum2 take it out1 and dry it in the air4 ,in the mean time boil in the alum water two handfuls of wheat bran1 till quite slippery1 and then strain it4 ,take two scruples of cochineal1 and two ounces of argall1 finely pounded and sifted2 mix it with the liquor1 a little at a time2 then put the calico into the liquor and boil it till it is almost wasted1 moving it about4 ,take out the calico1 and wash it in chamber lye first1 and cold water after2 then rinse it in water1 starch1 strain1 and dry it quickly without hanging in folds4 ,mangle it very highly1 unless you have it calendered1 which is the best4 ,,blue4 ,let the calico be washed clean and dried1 then mix some of ,scott's liquid blue in as much water as will be sufficient to cover the things to be dyed1 and put in some starch to give it a light stiffness4 ,dry a bit to see if the colour is deep enough2 then put the linen1 c4 into it1 and wash it2 dry the articles singly1 and mangle or calender them4 ,no4 #dh4 ,,to ,,clean ,,gold ,,and ,,silver ,,lace4 ,sew the lace in linen cloth1 and boil it in a pint of water1 and two ounces of soap1 then wash it in water4 ,when it is tarnished1 apply a little warm spirits of wine to the tarnished part4 ,no4 #di4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,linen ,,from ,,moths4 ,when well washed and dried1 fold it up1 and scatter in the folds powdered cedar wood1 having previously perfumed your chest or drawers with storax2 this will effectually prevent damp or moths from injuring the linen4 ,no4 #ej4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,woollens ,,and ,,blankets4 ,they should first be properly washed in a lather of soap and water1 and well dried1 then pepper must be sprinkled over them before they are folded up and put away4 ,it is a good plan to keep them in brown paper bags4 ,no4 #ea4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,furs ,,and ,,woollens ,,from ,,moths4 ,let the former be occasionally combed1 while in use1 and the latter brushed and shaken4 ,when put away1 dry them very well1 then mix among them bitter apples from the apothecary's1 sewed up in small muslin bags1 or pieces of ,russia leather4 ,no4 #eb4 ,,to ,,varnish ,,old ,,straw ,,or ,,chip ,,hats4 ,take half an ounce of the best black sealing wax1 bruise it1 and put to it two ounces of spirits of turpentine1 melt the sealing wax very gently1 by placing the bottle that holds it in boiling water1 near the fire1 taking care the spirit does not catch fire2 when all the wax is melted1 lay it on the hat warm1 with a fine hair brush1 near the fire1 or in the sun4 ,it will not only give a beautiful gloss and stiffness to the hat1 but will make it resist wet4 ,no4 #ec4 ,,to ,,raise ,,the ,,surface ,,of ,,velvet4 ,warm a smoothing iron moderately1 cover it with a wet cloth1 hold it under the velvet1 and the vapour arising from the heated cloth will raise the pile of the velvet1 especially with the assistance of a rush wisk4 ,velvet should be cleaned either with a bit of old velvet or crape4 ,no4 #ed4 ,,to ,,make ,,starch4 ,peel and grate a quantity of potatoes1 put the pulp into a coarse cloth1 between two boards1 and press it into a dry cake2 the juice thus pressed out of the potatoe1 must be mixed with an equal quantity of water1 and in an hour's time it will deposit a fine sediment1 which may be used as starch4 ,no4 #ee4 ,,to ,,make ,,court ,,plaister4 ,lay some thin black silk on the table1 and put on it with a brush some dissolved isinglass1 or gum water1 and let it dry1 then dip it several times in the white of an egg4 ,no4 #ef4 ,,to ,,make ,,lavender ,,water4 ,to one pint of spirits of wine1 add eight pennyworth of essence of ambergris1 and one shilling worth of oil of lavender4 ,no4 #eg4 ,,to ,,make ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne4 ,spirits of wine 7rectified at #cf degrees71 one pound and a half1 ,essence of bergamot1 two drachms1 ,essence of rosemary1 half a drachm1 ,essence of cedras1 half a drachm1 ,essence of lemon1 half a drachm1 ,essence of orange flowers1 twenty drops1 ,essence of mereby1 twenty drops1 ,spirits of melisse1 one ounce and a half1 ,of soft water1 boiled and dropt slowly through clean blotting paper1 one quart4 ,no4 #eh4 ,,powder ,,for ,,infants' ,,dust ,,bags4 ,the skin of infants is so apt to chafe1 if not thoroughly dried after washing1 that powder is put upon all the folds of their skin1 and rubbed by the hand upon them4 ,this is either put on with a powder puff1 or dusted out of little muslin bags4 ,lapis calaminaris1 a fine yellow powder1 is that generally used4 ,fuller's earth is particularly adapted1 from its cooling nature1 to check inflammation4 ,it is dusted on when the skin is not sore1 but when the chafing has taken place it is put on mixed with cold water4 ,violet powder is often used1 but this is frequently mixed with some hurtful ingredient1 which irritates and inflames the skin1 and is therefore objected to by medical men4 ,it can be procured perfectly harmless1 but the druggist of whom it is purchased should be told for what purpose it is intended4 ,no4 #ei4 ,,pot-,,pourri1 ,,or ,,sweet ,,scent ,,jar4 ,put the following ingredients into a large china jar1 in layers1 with bay salt between each layer2 two pecks of damask roses1 part in buds1 and part blown2 of violets1 jessamine1 and orange flowers1 a handful each2 two ounces of orris root sliced1 storax1 and gum benjamin2 a quarter of a pound of angelica root sliced2 a quart of the red part of clove gilly flowers1 two handsful of lavender flowers1 half a handful of rosemary flowers1 bay and laurel leaves2 three ,seville oranges1 stuck as full of cloves as possible1 dried in a cool oven1 and pounded2 half a handful of knotted majoram1 two handsful of balm of gilead dried4 ,cover all quite close for some weeks1 and the perfume is very fine4 ,no4 #fj4 ,a ,,quicker ,,sort ,,of ,,pot-,,pourri4 ,take three handsful of orange flowers1 three of clove gilly flowers1 three of damask roses1 one of knotted marjoram1 one of lemon thyme1 six bay leaves1 two handsful of rosemary1 a handful of myrtle1 half a one of mint1 one of lavender1 the rind of a lemon1 and a quarter of an ounce of cloves4 ,chop them all1 and put them in layers with pounded bay salt between them1 up to the top of the jar4 ,if all the ingredients cannot be procured at once1 put them in as you obtain them1 always throwing in bay salt1 after each fresh layer4 ,no4 #fa4 ,,scent ,,bags ,,to ,,lay ,,in ,,drawers4 ,half a pound of coriander seeds1 half a pound of damask rose leaves1 half a pound of sweet orris root1 half a pound of calamus aromaticus1 one ounce of mace1 one ounce of cinnamon1 half an ounce of cloves1 three ounces of verbena powder1 four drachms of musk powder1 two drachms of loaf sugar1 three ounces of lavender flowers1 and some rhodium wood2 beat them well together1 and sew them up in muslin or silk bags4 ,no4 #fb4 ,,to ,,make ,,shoes ,,waterproof4 ,one pound of mutton suet1 four ounces of bees-wax1 two ounces of ,venice turpentine1 mixed altogether2 the bees-wax being melted and strained4 ,put on the composition with a hare's foot or brush1 drying it before the fire1 and repeating it at intervals of time1 till all the seams and little cracks are filled up4 ,no4 #fc4 ,,remedy ,,against ,,fleas4 ,sew the leaves of fresh penny-royal1 in little muslin bags1 and put them between the blankets1 or mattresses4 ,wormwood1 or dried moss1 will have the same effect4 ,no4 #fd4 ,,to ,,prevent ,,being ,,bitten ,,by ,,bugs4 ,put a sprig or two of tansy at the head of the bed1 or as near the pillow as is not disagreeable4 ,pieces of camphor sewed to the bed1 or mattress1 will also drive them away4 ,no4 #fe4 ,,to ,,destroy ,,bugs4 ,mix some quicksilver in a mortar with the white of an egg1 till the quicksilver is all mixed1 and there are no bubbles2 then beat up the white of another egg1 and put it to the mixture in the mortar1 till it becomes a fine ointment4 ,anoint the bedstead all over in every crack1 with a brush1 and put it also about the cord lacing1 head board1 c4 ,when repeated for the two or three following days1 the cure will be effectual1 and the bedstead uninjured4 ,no4 #ff4 ,,to ,,destroy ,,flies4 ,ground black pepper and moist sugar mixed in equal quantities1 and diluted with milk1 put into saucers1 adding fresh milk1 and stirring the mixture when required4 ,no4 #fg4 ,,to ,,destroy ,,bugs ,,from ,,furniture4 ,wash the bedstead or floor with water thoroughly saturated with glauber salts1 once or twice a year1 and the bugs will shortly be effectually destroyed4 ,the following receipts have been taken from that useful and interesting work1 called the ,magazine of ,domestic ,economy1 which is strongly recommended to the notice of all those who are engaged in the management of a household1 as containing a great variety of directions and useful knowledge in every branch of domestic economy4 ,no4 #fh4 ,,to ,,prepare ,,rabbit ,,skins4 ,to be good1 the skin should be in season4 ,take the skin as fresh as possible1 and having mixed a quantity of salt and water1 till it will bear an egg1 saturate it with alum2 put your skin into this mixture1 blood warm1 and let it lie and soak twenty-four hours2 then take it out1 and having tacked it upon a board1 the fur inwards1 scrape the skin1 and a thin membrane will come off2 then having warmed up the liquor again1 put your skin again into it1 and let it remain five hours more1 after which1 take it out and nail it upon a board to dry1 the fur inwards as before2 and rub it well with pumice stone and whiting4 ,no4 #fi4 ,,french ,,polish ,,for ,,boots1 ,,shoes1 ,,and ,,harness4 ,a quarter of a pound of glue1 half a pound of logwood chips1 a quarter of an ounce of indigo1 powdered very fine1 a quarter of an ounce of soft soap1 a quarter of an ounce of isinglass4 ,boil these ingredients in two pints of vinegar and one pint of water1 during ten minutes after the ebullition begins4 ,then strain the liquid2 when cold it is fit for use1 and may be put into either pint or half pint bottles4 ,the dirt must be sponged off the boots and shoes1 and the polish afterwards put on with a clean sponge2 should the polish ever become too thick1 it must be held near to the fire to warm a little1 when the heat will give it the proper liquescence4 ,no4 #gj4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,gilt ,,frames ,,and ,,lamps4 ,it is usual to clothe all frames and lamps with gauze1 ,holland1 muslin or chintz bags1 to protect them from damp1 but this practice has been stated to be very injurious to them1 as these bags are known to retain any moisture for so long a time as to be of great injury to the gilt2 whereas1 when left uncovered1 though more exposed to the air1 it becomes sooner dry4 ,the following is a good method of ,,reviving ,,gilt ,,frames4 ,beat up three ounces of eggs1 with one ounce of chloride of potash1 or soda1 lay it over the frame with a soft brush dipped in the mixture4 ,no4 #ga4 ,,to ,,make ,,cloth ,,waterproof4 ,take half an ounce of isinglass 7,russian is best71 put it into one pound of rain water1 and boil until dissolved2 take one ounce of alum1 put it into two pounds of water1 and boil till it is dissolved2 take a quarter of an ounce of white soap1 with one pound of rain water1 and boil till it is dissolved4 ,after each of these ingredients has been separately dissolved1 strain them separately through a piece of linen2 afterwards mix them well together in a pot1 put it on the fire again till it simmers1 then take it off1 and while thus near boiling1 dip a brush into it1 and apply it to the wrong side of the cloth intended to be waterproof4 ,the cloth must be spread out on a table during the operation1 and remain there until it is dry2 after it is dry it must be brushed on the wrong side against the grain2 and then dipping the brush in clear water1 pass it lightly over1 and leave it again to dry4 ,after that1 the gloss caused by the application of the ingredients can be taken off4 ,three days after the operation has been done1 the cloth will be impervious to water but not to air4 ,no4 #gb4 ,,to ,,extract ,,grease ,,spots ,,from ,,linen4 ,the following method is not generally known1 and is the best we ever met with4 ,take magnesia in the lump1 wet it1 and rub the grease spots well with it4 ,in a little time brush it off1 and no appearance of grease will be left4 ,no4 #gc4 ,,to ,,clean ,,merino ,,curtains4 ,remove the dust as much as possible with a brush1 and lay the curtain over a large table1 and having procured three or four pieces of flannel1 and a quantity of bran1 sprinkle a handful of the latter on a portion of the furniture1 and proceed to rub it round and round with a bit of the flannel4 ,when the bran becomes soiled1 take more bran and a fresh piece of flannel1 and thus continue till the merino becomes bright and clean4 ,no4 #gd4 ,,method ,,of ,,cleansing ,,silk1 ,,woollen1 ,,and ,,cotton4 ,take raw potatoes in their natural state1 and when well washed1 let them be rubbed on a grater over a vessel of clean water1 to a fine pulp2 pass the liquid matter through a coarse sieve into another tub of clean water2 let this mixture stand till the fine white particles of potatoe are precipitated1 then pour off the liquor1 which preserve for use4 ,the article to be cleaned should be laid on a table1 and well rubbed with a sponge dipped in the liquor until clean1 when it is washed several times in clean water1 and then dried and ironed4 ,two middle sized potatoes will suffice for a pint of water4 ,the coarse pulp of the potatoe1 which will not pass the sieve1 is of use in cleaning worsted curtains1 tapestry1 carpets1 and other coarse goods1 while the liquor prepared as above1 will clean silk1 cotton1 and woollen goods4 ,no4 #ge4 ,,to ,,bleach ,,wool4 ,to one pound of wool yarn1 take two pounds of powdered white chalk1 mixed with river water1 to the consistency of paste2 knead the yarn thoroughly in it1 that it may be completely saturated1 and let it dry for twenty-four hours1 then rub it well1 and wash it in cold water1 to remove all the chalk1 and the yarn will be quite clean1 and very white4 ,warm water spoils the colour of the wool4 ,no4 #gf4 ,,balls ,,for ,,removing ,,spots ,,from ,,cloth4 ,mix well four ounces of fuller's earth1 dried so as to crumble into powder1 with a piece of lemon2 when well incorporated1 add two drachms of common pearl ash powdered4 ,work up the whole into a stiff paste1 and form it into balls4 ,set them to dry on a gently heated stove1 and when dry1 they are fit for use4 ,when using this preparation1 first moisten with cold water1 the spots you wish to remove1 and rub a ball all over them4 ,let the place dry in the sun1 or near the fire1 and when quite dry1 wash the spots with a sponge and water1 and they will disappear4 ,no4 #gg4 ,,mode ,,of ,,washing ,a ,,silk ,,dress4 ,if the dress is made up1 the seams need not be separated1 but the body should be removed from the skirt1 and the lining taken away from the bottom4 ,trimming and ornaments should be taken off4 ,if dirty1 let the dress be simply washed first in soft1 cold clear water1 and if black1 a pint of gin should be added to every gallon of water1 then proceed as follows3-- ,lay the dress on a clean smooth table1 a flannel should be well soaped1 being made just wet enough with lukewarm water1 and the silk rubbed one way1 being careful that this rubbing is quite even4 ,when the dirt has disappeared1 the soap must be washed off with a sponge1 and plenty of cold water4 ,as soon as one side is finished1 the other must be washed precisely in the same manner4 ,observe that not more of either side must be done at a time1 than can be spread perfectly flat upon the table1 and the hand conveniently reach2 likewise1 the soap must be sponged off one portion of the dress1 before the soaped flannel is applied to another4 ,the dresses should be hung up on a linen horse1 in the shade1 and when dry1 if of a black1 or dark blue colour1 another sponging of gin1 or whiskey1 is highly advantageous4 ,washed silks are spoiled if ironed with a hot iron1 therefore use one of moderate heat1 with a sheet of paper between4 ,no4 #gh4 ,,indian ,,rubber ,,varnish4 ,put in a bottle two ounces of ,indian rubber1 cut very small2 add one pound of spirits of turpentine1 and stop the bottle close1 that the spirit may not evaporate2 leave it two days without moving1 then stir the liquor with a wooden spatula1 and if the ,india rubber is swollen1 and has absorbed the spirit1 add a sufficient quantity for it just to swim in the liquid4 ,stir it every forty-eight hours1 till the ,india rubber is quite dissolved1 which is ascertained by squeezing a little of it between the fingers2 when in this state put it into a glass bottle and keep it well corked till wanted for use2 the longer it is kept the better it becomes4 ,no4 #gi4 ,,to ,,clean ,,paint ,,that ,,is ,,not ,,varnished4 ,put upon a plate some of the best whiting1 have ready some clean warm water1 and a piece of flannel1 which dip into the water and squeeze nearly dry2 then take as much whiting as will adhere to it1 apply it to the paint1 when a little rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or grease2 wash it well off with water1 and rub it dry with a soft cloth4 ,paint thus cleaned looks equal to new2 and without doing the least injury to the most delicate colour1 it will preserve the paint much longer than if cleaned with soap2 and it does not require more than half the time usually occupied in cleaning4 ,no4 #hj4 ,,hints ,,on ,,purchasing ,,furniture4 ,a misfortune of not very rare occurrence1 is the splitting of valuable tables that are veneered4 ,we have known the infliction1 and we guard others from a similar annoyance4 ,one of the causes may be traced to the cabinet makers2 it is not unusual for them to make use of wood for the foundation1 that has not been sufficiently seasoned1 and is besides of an open porous texture1 so different from the close hard grained wood1 which is to form the veneer1 that a very long time is requisite before they can manufacture their goods without risk of shrinking4 ,in order to ensure this certainty of seasoning1 a larger stock of wood is required than is always convenient to be on hand by a cabinet maker1 either from want of capital or accommodation2 hence1 the purchase of new furniture requires circumspection4 ,in this1 as well as every other requisite1 we would enforce the oft repeated advice1 that a preference is always given to the trader of known probity4 ,chance bargains1 cheap to the eye1 almost always become dear and unsatisfactory in the end4 ,veneered furniture which is purchased from a damp warehouse1 and brought suddenly into a well aired warm room will almost infallibly fly4 ,chests of drawers1 particularly if they be made of coarse ,honduras mahogany1 scarcely fail to crack1 and throw up from their edges slips of veneer1 which snap off1 and are swept away1 leaving unsightly white gaps2 these have to be replaced1 and look shabby and patched4 ,spanish mahogany1 though much more expensive in the first purchase1 is far more certain1 hard1 rich-coloured1 and durable4 ,it is essential that new furniture should be inured by degrees to a change of temperature1 in order to prevent this hazardous warping1 and unequal contracting of the wood4 ,tables in particular1 if intended to occupy a station opposite a fire1 should be kept with the grain of the wood lying longways2 not the ends of the grain and the joint pointing to the fire2 for want of this simple precaution1 we have known a beautiful rosewood table entirely spoiled4 ,spanish mahogany was the beautiful wood which was first known in ,england1 and which was said to be of so hard and close a grain as to turn the edges of our workmen's tools2 but since our possessions and commerce have been extended to the ,north of ,america1 we have been stocked with vast quantities of that open grained inferior kind1 that is made into almost all our household goods1 and which1 from its facility of working1 is so cheap1 that purchasers are continually deceived by unprincipled tradesmen1 by the substitution of one for the other4 ,no person can well be deceived1 however1 to whom the two sorts of wood have been explained2 the one 7,spanish7 being rich-coloured1 of an even texture1 like satin1 when polished1 with no grain visible2 the other pale1 rough1 and uneven when highly polished1 shewing the coarse grain like threads2 the latter too is so soft1 that it is dented with the slightest touch1 a pencil-case falling upon it1 six inches from its surface1 will leave a dent that never can be removed1 unless the whole is plained over4 ,no4 #ha4 ,,to ,,clean ,,sponge4 ,wash them in very dilute tartaric acid1 rinsing them afterwards in water2 it will make them very soft and white4 ,be careful to dilute the acid well1 as it is very corrosive4 ,no4 #hb4 ,a ,,useful ,,glue4 ,this is excellent for joining wood1 in furniture1 c41 as it forms so tenacious a union of the parts1 that the point of junction is stronger1 and is more difficult to break1 than any other part of the wood4 ,also if sawdust is mixed up into a ball with the glue1 it becomes solid and elastic1 so as to be fit for turning4 ,beat an ounce of isinglass to shreds1 and put it into a small skillet1 and pour over it a pint of brandy4 ,set the skillet over a very slow fire1 so that a very gentle heat may be applied to the mixture4 ,when all the isinglass is dissolved1 strain the solution1 and put it in a wide mouthed bottle with a glass stopper1 which must remain constantly closed4 ,at the time it is required for use1 it must be liquified by a moderate heat1 which renders it thin and transparent4 ,this solution in brandy never corrupts1 and is therefore the best form of dissolved isinglass for fining wines1 and other liquids4 ,this solution likewise serves admirably for taking impressions of coins and models1 over the surface of which1 a very thin coating must be poured of the melted glue4 ,this coating being left on the coin1 medal1 or seal1 during several days1 until it is hard1 is then a tough1 horny1 transparent substance1 bearing the impression in relief on one side1 and in intaglio on the other4 ,nothing can injure this glue excepting water1 which dissolves it1 therefore it will not serve as a cement for china1 or any thing holding or coming in contact with water4 ,no4 #hc4 ,,to ,,preserve ,,brass ,,ornaments4 ,brass ornaments1 when not gilt or lackered1 may be cleaned1 and a fine colour may be given to them by either of the two following simple processes4 ,the first is1 to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine powder1 then to moisten it with soft water1 rubbing it on the ornaments1 which must be heated over charcoal1 and rubbed dry with bran and whiting4 ,the second is1 to wash the brass work with roche alum boiled in strong lye1 in the proportion of an ounce to a pint2 when dry1 it must be rubbed with fine tripoli4 ,no4 #hd4 ,,cheap ,,scouring ,,drops4 ,take a wine-glassful of the rectified oil of turpentine1 half a tea-spoonful or more of essential oil of lemons1 mix them well1 and preserve in a well stopped phial4 ,if you have not oil of lemons1 oil of cloves1 or of cinnamon1 or of peppermint1 will do4 ,the scorning drops thus prepared1 are of a pleasant odour1 and will take out of silk1 woollen1 linen1 or cotton stuffs1 all sorts of grease spots1 oil1 paint1 pitch1 tar1 fruit stains1 c4 by rubbing a little on the satin1 with a piece of flannel or woollen cloth4 ,a bit of silk velvet is the best rubber for silks2 the drops do not affect the colour of stuffs4 ,no4 #he4 ,,imitation ,,of ,,maple ,,wood4 ,for frames or furniture4 ,the stain is merely aquafortis1 washed on with a brush2 as soon as it has been hastily brushed over1 hold the article to the fire1 it will become yellow in a few minutes4 ,it is then to be brushed over with copal varnish1 and left to dry in the sun or open air2 two or three coats completely fill the pores of the wood2 then rub it gently with a bit of flat pumice-stone1 and give it another coat1 perhaps two1 letting it be completely dry between each2 then polish again very gently1 and finish off with flour and a soft rag4 ,it is as good as ,french polish1 and may be washed at any time4 ,no4 #hf4 ,,receipt ,,for ,,french ,,polish4 ,one quart of rectified spirits of wine1 ,two ounces of seed lac1 ,one ounce of shell lac1 ,one ounce of gum sandrach1 ,one ounce of gum copal1 ,one ounce of camphor1 ,pound the gums together and put them with the whole of the other articles into a stone bottle2 cork it securely1 and place the bottle in hot water1 shaking it often1 till all be dissolved4 ,a very small quantity is said to be used at a time1 and only a small surface of the piece of furniture is covered with the liquid1 and that is rubbed off immediately2 a little more is then applied1 which is also rubbed off1 and this is repeated till the desired polish is attained4 ,another part of the table c4 is then treated in the same manner1 till the whole surface is polished4 ,no4 #hg4 ,,to ,,clean ,,hair ,,brushes4 ,the best mode is to use soda1 dissolved in cold water1 instead of soap and hot water2 the latter very soon softens the hairs of the brush1 and the rubbing completes their destruction4 ,soda having an affinity for grease1 cleans the brush with very little friction4 ,hair brushes are generally chosen by the whiteness and delicacy of the hair1 it is therefore prepared 7which is injurious to them7 to suit the taste of purchasers4 ,dark white1 coarse thick ,foreign bristles make the most durable brushes4 ,no4 #hh4 ,,to ,,clean ,,kid ,,gloves1 ,,white ,,or ,,coloured4 ,have ready a little new milk in one saucer and a piece of brown soap in another1 and a clean cloth or towel folded three or four times4 ,on the cloth spread out the glove smooth and neat2 take a piece of flannel1 dip it in the milk1 then rub off a good quantity of soap on to the wetted flannel1 and commence to rub the glove downwards1 towards the fingers1 holding it firmly with the left hand4 ,continue this process till the glove1 if white1 looks of a dingy yellow1 though clean2 if coloured1 till it looks dark and spoiled2 lay it to dry1 and the old gloves shall look nearly new4 ,they will become soft1 elastic1 smooth and glossy4 ,,washing ,,and ,,ironing4 ,as the appearance of many articles of dress depends greatly upon the skill of the washerwoman1 it is thought that a few hints on the subject may not be misapplied2 these have been collected from experienced laundresses1 and from that excellent little work 8,cottage ,comforts40 ,the first things to be attended to are1 the articles required for both wash-house and laundry1 which are as follows3-- #a,,st4 ,,large ,,and ,,small ,,washing ,,tubs4--,these should be of smooth wood1 with no nails1 or iron hoops outside1 lest the linen should be torn or rusted4 #b,,nd4 ,a ,,copper ,,furnace in which to boil the ,linen4--,if required for large washings1 it should be capable of holding eighteen or twenty gallons of water4 #c,,rd4 ,a ,,maid ,,or ,,dolley4--,these are sometimes circular like a barrel churn1 and sometimes upright1 they are used for shaking and rinsing dirty and coarse linen4 #d,,th4 ,,lines4--,these should be of worsted1 if not too expensive1 otherwise soft flaxen lines answer well4 ,when they are done with1 and dry1 they should be taken down1 wound on a skein1 and put carefully aside until wanted4 #e,,th4 ,,line ,,pegs4--,these should be of white soft wood2 they must be kept very clean for use1 and counted before being put away4 #f,,th4 ,,as ,,rain ,,water is essential for many articles1 if none is at hand1 a cask should be kept1 to catch what falls from the house4 ,,for ,,the ,,laundry4 ,the following articles are in use4 #ast4 ,ironing cloths or blankets2 these are generally made of proper kind of flannel called fearnought2 they should be carefully dried when put away1 lest moths should destroy them4 #bnd4 ,a mangle for heavy linen4 #crd4 ,the common irons for lighter articles4 #dth4 ,the ,italian iron for frills1 c4 #eth4 ,the sleeve iron4 #fth4 ,the box iron4 #gth4 ,the gaufiering iron4 ,,on ,,washing ,,linen1 c4 ,a good washerwoman will examine carefully the linen she has to wash1 and rub soap on to such parts as require it the most1 as the collars and wristbands of shirts1 taking care that the water is not too hot1 otherwise it will set in the dirt4 ,she afterwards twice thoroughly washes out all her white things in plenty of white warm lather1 shaking each article out1 and examining if every spot or stain is removed4 ,she then boils them1 taking care not to put too many into the copper at once4 ,a small quantity of soft soap thrown in to the boil1 helps to give a good colour to the linen1 and if well washed out of the boil1 as all linen ought to be1 and afterwards well rinsed in plenty of spring water1 no unpleasant smell will be retained4 ,the rinsing water should be made moderately blue1 by means of stone blue tied up in a flannel bag1 and squeezed in4 ,such things as are to be starched1 will be much clearer if they are first dried2 then dipped in the starch before it is quite cold2 then dipped in cold water and dried again2 then once more dipped in cold water1 spread upon a coarse dry cloth1 and rolled up2 by this mode also1 their sticking to the ironing cloth1 will be prevented4 ,the best way to make starch1 is1 very gradually to moisten with cold water1 a table spoonful of starch2 when quite smooth1 stir it into a pint of boiling water1 with a morsel of white wax1 and let it boil gently for several minutes1 stirring it all the time2 when poured out1 cover it over with a plate1 to prevent a skin forming at top1 which is both troublesome and wasteful4 ,to prevent flannels or woollen stockings from shrinking1 pour over them1 when new1 boiling water2 suffer it to remain till cold1 then hang them up without wringing2 and when dry1 shake them well4 ,greasy spots may be taken out of all kinds of woollen cloths1 blankets1 scarlet cloaks1 or table baizes1 without injury to the colour1 by washing them with gall1 instead of soap2 the gall may be had at the butcher's1 at #c;d4 a pint4 ,a pint mixed up in a good sized tub of soft water1 will be sufficient for several articles2 it will lather exactly like soap4 ,this is the process used by the scourer4 ,the articles so washed1 will require to be several times rinsed in water1 to remove the smell of the gall2 when dry1 they should be removed1 and suffered to remain in the mangle all night1 after which1 they will appear as good as new4 ,in washing prints the colours should be rubbed as little as possible1 for which reason it is a good thing to boil a lather of soap till it is like a jelly1 mix this jelly with cold water1 and wash them in it4 ,it is a good plan also to wash coloured things the first time1 in the suds in which flannels have been washed1 if it is not too dirty4 ,they should be taken immediately from one water into another1 and not suffered to lie together damp1 or they will dry streaky4 ,when washed1 rinse them twice in spring water1 and hang them out immediately1 without wringing4 ,blankets are washed with soft soap4 ,gall is used for bombazines and stuffs4 ,any thing that has been singed in the ironing should be wetted with cold water1 and laid in the air4 ,soda may be put in the water in which very greasy cloths are washed1 but it is liable to spoil other things4 ,grease may be taken out with cold water and suds4 ,men and boy's stockings should be steeped1 and stewed in cold water and soap1 in a slow oven1 or boiled4 ,,hanging ,,to ,,dry4 ,stockings should be hung by the toe1 to prevent the feet becoming thick4 ,gowns should be pinned up by the shoulders1 rather than by the bottom of the skirt1 or the body lining becomes discoloured4 ,,mangling ,,and ,,ironing4 ,damp over the things1 and iron or mangle them2 the latter is used for heavy linen1 such as sheets1 towels1 table cloths1 c4 ,those articles which have buttons or thick plaits should not be mangled2 the mangle is injured by them2 besides the buttons are broken to pieces1 and the plaited articles cannot be made smooth4 ,in ironing1 be careful first to rub over something of little value1 lest fine things be either scorched or smeared4 ,the ,italian iron is used entirely for puffs1 frills1 c4 ,the sleeve iron1 which resembles a mushroom1 having a half circle at the top1 to which is attached a handle or stalk1 is put up through the opening of the sleeve towards the wrist1 and the sleeve is drawn or passed over the iron backwards and forwards until it is all properly ironed4 ,this only suits some kinds of sleeves1 but is remarkably good for them4 ,let every thing be thoroughly dried1 and aired by the fire1 otherwise they will have a tumbled1 half finished appearance1 besides exposing the wearer to the risk of taking cold4 ,,clear ,,starching4 ,wash out the articles to be clear starched1 and then in a very clean vessel1 put about two table spoonsful of water to two ounces of starch1 wet it and mix it well up into a paste1 pour about half a pint of boiling water upon it1 keep stirring it all the while1 till of the proper consistency1 then boil it up well for a quarter of an hour1 and by adding a little white wax1 it prevents the starch sticking to the iron4 ,dip the articles in1 and wring the starch out again very dry1 spread the things on a clean cloth1 and then roll the cloth and articles together very tightly4 ,it should remain thus about two hours1 and then be ironed nicely4 ,the iron should be very clean2 to effect this1 rub it each time on taking it from the fire1 upon a little sand paper and a cloth4 ,,gaufiering4 ,this may be done either with gaufiering irons1 or by means of straws1 which are brought in bundles prepared for the purpose4 ,the following is the manner in which the straws are used3-- ,procure a board about a yard long1 and six nails broad1 cover it with flannel1 and fasten two tapes length-wise1 leaving about a quarter of a yard between them2 then pin the net to the flannel at one end1 and place a straw over the tapes 7between which the net is lying7 and under the net1 the next straw is laid under the tapes and over the net1 and so on alternately1 taking care that the upper straws are put close to each other1 upon the under ones1 forming two layers of straws4 ,when all the net is folded1 dip a coarse cloth in water1 and wring it as dry as you can1 lay this upon the net1 and iron it dry1 pressing on the board as much as you can without splitting the straws2 remove the cloth1 and place the board before the fire for half an hour1 when you may draw out the upper straws1 and run in some cotton to secure it1 after which1 the remaining straws may be taken away1 and the work is complete4 ,some persons hold the board in the steam of a kettle for some time and then dry it before the fire1 in preference to ironing it4 ,some others sprinkle it with very weak starch water1 gum water1 or rice water1 before ironing4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,knitting4 ,,general ,,observations4 ,knitting is the art of uniting worsted1 or any other material together1 without the aid of a loom4 ,this work is applied to stockings1 socks1 boots1 coverlids1 and various other articles of wear or ornament1 and is generally done with worsted1 cotton or silk1 but as the latter material properly belongs to fancy work1 it will not be often mentioned4 ,,knitting ,,pins ,,or ,,needles1 ,as they are variously called1 are made of iron or brass1 for common use1 and steel for best4 ,they can be procured of every size and thickness1 and are sold in sets1 each set containing four pins4 ,these sets cost from d4 to #b;d4 each1 according to the metal and size4 ,ivory1 bone1 whalebone1 steel1 rosewood1 ebony1 and cane pins1 of a larger size and thickness1 are employed for knitting coverlids1 boots1 carpets1 and other thickly knit articles4 ,these are sometimes twenty inches1 or two feet long1 and have a knob at one end to prevent the stitches from slipping off4 ,of these pins two or three form the set4 ,for schools1 common pins may be procured from a carpenter or turner1 for #b;d4 a set1 whereas the former are charged at from #as4 #f;d4 to #hs4 or #is4 the set4 ,,materials ,,for ,,knitting4 ,worsted1 lambs' wool1 or fleecy wool1 is used for stockings1 and other wearing articles4 ,cotton is employed for curtains1 window blinds1 bags1 fringe1 c4 ,these materials are always sold by the weight2 one pound contains sixteen ounces4 ,the expense of wools and worsteds varies so materially1 that an average price can hardly be stated4 ,it has been sold as low as at #bs4 per pound1 and as high as #fs4 #f;d4 ,crimsons are the most expensive colours1 greens and oranges the next1 blue is more moderate1 and black1 grey1 purple1 and pepper and salt are the least expensive1 always excepting white1 which is the lowest of any4 ,grey and white common worsted contain a good deal of turpentine1 and are often preferred by the poor on that account4 ,black should be well soaked in strong vinegar1 to set the colour1 and prevent its coming off on the hands while being knitted4 ,worsteds are more suitable for men's and women's stockings4 ,wools for children's stockings1 or for muffatees1 ruffs1 and other lighter articles of wear1 which should be soft and warm4 ,all worsteds and wools should be carefully wrapped up in the coarsest brown paper1 which also contains turpentine1 and keeps out the air4 ,they should be often looked to1 as the moths are apt to get at them and spoil them4 ,worsteds in use should be neatly wound in small balls1 about the size of an orange4 ,,on ,,knitting ,,stitches4 ,in knitting1 keep the ball in the pocket1 or in a bag hung to the arm1 or a basket1 and do not allow it to roll on the table or floor1 to get dusted4 ,there are a great variety of knit stitches1 all of which1 are founded on the following kinds1 beginning with casting or setting on stitches1 all of which will be explained in due order4 ,,casting ,,on ,,stitches4 ,this must be first learned1 and signifies putting the stitches on the pins1 in order to begin working4 ,there are two or three modes of doing this4 ,hold the worsted at about a quarter of a yard from the end1 together with one of the pins in the right hand1 between the finger and thumb4 ,next1 hold the worsted at some distance from the end1 and lay it across the palm of the left hand1 holding it down with the fingers while you make a loop1 by bringing the worsted before the thumb1 and carrying it outside and back again1 between the thumb and first finger into the palm1 taking care to cross it over the other worsted2 with the right hand put the pin under the loop1 and take it off from the thumb upon it1 drawing the end of the worsted tight at the same time4 ,continue making loops with the left thumb1 and taking them off on the right hand pin1 until the proper number of stitches be set on4 ,another and a better mode1 is that of knitting on the stitches4 ,for this purpose1 after making the first loop with the left hand thumb1 as above1 and slipping it off the thumb upon the right hand pin1 continue as follows3-- ,take another pin in the right hand1 and put it under the loop on the pin1 making this right hand pin lie across under the left4 ,next1 put the worsted between the two pins1 and press the end of the right hand pin upon the worsted1 till it is brought through the first stitch1 and forms a loop upon the pin4 ,take this loop off upon the left hand pin1 by putting the end of it under the loop1 which gives it a kind of twist2 continue thus increasing the stitches on the left hand pin until the proper number is formed4 ,,the ,,common ,,knitting ,,stitch4 ,after setting on the number of stitches in the manner before mentioned1 begin to knit them off from one pin to the other1 as follows3-- ,hold the pin with the stitches on1 in the left hand2 with the right hand1 put the other pin under the first loop1 making the pin lie across behind the left hand pin1 while with the first finger1 the worsted is drawn in front between the pins4 ,then with the end of the right pin1 press this worsted till it is brought through the stitch in the form of a loop upon the right hand pin4 ,keep it on the right pin1 taking the loop quite off from the left pin4 ,continue knitting the stitches off the left upon the right hand pin1 till the row is completed1 when change pins1 putting the one with stitches in the left hand1 and the disengaged pin in the other4 ,,dutch ,,common ,,knitting4 ,this is another mode of knitting the common stitch1 and is more simple1 and more quickly done than the usual way4 ,hold the pin-ful of stitches in the left hand1 as also the worsted1 which should be wound once or twice round the little finger1 to keep it firm1 and allowed to pass over the first finger to the pins4 ,the right hand pin is then simply passed through the stitch1 and catching the worsted outside1 draws it through1 and forms the loop on the right pin1 and so on4 ,,the ,,turn ,,or ,,seam ,,stitch4 ,this is also called back-stitching1 or pearling1 but when alluded to hereafter1 it will invariably be called turn-stitch4 ,it is simply bringing the worsted between the needles1 and taking up the loop1 by putting the needle into the stitch from behind1 and knitting it off by putting the worsted round the pin1 and pressing the loop through the stitch4 ,,widening4 ,this is increasing the number of loops1 and is generally done in the middle of a pin-ful of stitches4 ,there are various modes of widening4 ,one is1 that of simply passing the worsted in front1 before knitting the loop1 and is termed making a stitch4 ,another1 is effected by taking up the cross loop1 below the next stitch belonging to the row before1 and afterwards continuing the plain knitting4 ,in some cases where the widening occurs at the end1 in order to form a gradual slope1 knit the last stitch without taking the loop off the pin4 ,again put the right hand pin into the loop1 but in order to give a twist to the worsted1 put it in under the side furthest from you1 and knit it off4 ,,narrowing4 ,this is decreasing the number of stitches1 by simply knitting two together4 ,,slipping ,a ,,stitch4 ,this is merely taking the stitch or loop off one pin upon the other without knitting it4 ,,finishing ,,off4 ,in finishing off a piece of knitting1 knit two stitches from off the left hand pin1 upon the right1 and then with the left pin1 take up the first stitch and put it over the second1 slipping it off the pin at the same time1 so as only to leave the second stitch upon it4 ,knit a third stitch1 and slip the second loop over it also off the pin1 and so on till the last stitch or loop remains on the left hand pin1 and none on the right2 when1 after breaking off the worsted1 pass the end through the loop and draw it up1 and the whole is completed4 ,observe1 in finishing off1 not to pull the worsted too tight1 as the end will curl up1 and look puckered4 ,,welting4 ,this is usually knit at the tops of stockings1 socks1 muffatees1 c4 and tends to confine the article to the leg or arm of the wearer1 from its tendency to contract4 ,knit three or more plain stitches1 and the same number of turn stitches alternately for several rows1 observing always to knit one row or bout exactly to correspond with the other1 so that the welts or ribs are regular4 ,,binding4 ,in binding1 or joining two stitches together1 as for instance1 in the heel of the stocking1 lay the two pins together in one hand1 and with a third pin knit a stitch1 first off one pin and then off another1 after which1 put the first knit stitch over the second1 slipping it off the pin as in fastening off1 already described4 ,continue knitting a fresh stitch to it1 first from one pin and slipping the loop over it1 and then from the other4 ,pass the worsted through the last loop and the whole is completed4 ,there are many terms used in knitting which ought to be familiar to all knitters1 as they are constantly introduced into knitting receipts4 ,the following will be described1 but there are probably many more peculiar to different counties4 ,a ,row is one line or length of knitting4 ,a ,rib is two rows1 or a row forwards and backwards1 and is sometimes called a turn4 ,a ,bout is one round of knitting1 as in stockings4 ,a ,welt is that part ribbed at the top of the leg of the stocking4 ,a ,seam is that open line in a stocking1 formed by a continuation of turn stitches4 ,,fancy ,,stitches4 ,the following are the various fancy stitches commonly employed by knitters for useful articles3-- ,no4 #a4 ,double knitting4 #b4 ,another ditto4 #c4 ,another ditto4 #d4 ,open hem4 #e4 ,honey-comb stitch4 #f4 ,french stitch4 #g4 ,fantail stitch4 #h4 ,imitation net-work stitch4 #i4 ,open cross-stitch4 #aj4 ,insertion-work1 or ,berlin wire4 #aa4 ,plain open stitch4 #ab4 ,the crow's-foot stitch4 #ac4 ,the chain stitch4 #ad4 ,the embossed hexicon stitch4 #ae4 ,the common plat4 #af4 ,the elastic rib4 #ag4 ,the rough-cast1 or huckaback stitch4 #ah4 ,the embossed diamond stitch4 #ai4 ,the ornamental ladder4 #bj4 ,imitation double knitting4 #ba4 ,the knit herring-bone stitch4 #bb4 ,the purse stitch4 #bc4 ,the lace wave stitch4 #bd4 ,the herring-bone bag stitch4 #be4 ,an improved open stitch4 #bf4 ,the shawl stitch4 #bg4 ,the cross-stitch pattern4 #bh4 ,the curb stitch4 #bi4 ,the two coloured rib-stitch4 #cj4 ,a beautiful diamond stitch4 #ca4 ,the raised ,french stitch4 #cb4 ,the two coloured chain stitch4 #cc4 ,the rug stitch4 #cd4 ,the nondescript4 #ce4 ,a new stitch #cf4 ,the new muffatee stitch4 ,,knit ,,fringes4 ,no4 #a4 ,fringe4 #b4 ,fringe4 #c4 ,shawl fringe4 #d4 ,a beautiful fringe1 and border4 #e4 ,a very pretty fringe4 #f4 ,fringe for curtains4 ,no4 #a4 ,,double ,,knitting4 ,this is very suitable for blankets1 coverlets1 comforters1 socks1 sleeves1 ruffs1 shawls1 c4 ,there are three kinds of double knitting2 the first is as follows3-- ,put on an even number of stitches1 ,knit a few plain rows1 ,then begin a fresh row as follows3-- ,knit a stitch1 ,pass the worsted between the needles in front2 ,take off a stitch1 putting the needle inside the loop2 ,pass the worsted back again1 ,knit another stitch1 as before1 and so on4 ,no4 #b4 ,,double ,,knitting4 ,another mode is as follows3-- ,put on an even number of stitches1 ,knit the first stitch plain1 putting the worsted twice over the pin1 ,pass the worsted between the needles before1 ,slip a stitch1 ,pass the worsted behind again4 ,again knit a stitch1 putting the wool twice over the pin1 and so on4 ,in the next row1 knit those stitches that were slipped1 and slip those which were before knit4 ,it is advisable to knit the first three or four stitches plain in every row1 as it confines it down neatly at the sides4 ,no4 #c4 ,,double ,,knitting4 ,this is worked on the wrong side1 and is particularly simple1 and far quicker work than the former method1 but1 as when completed1 it requires turning inside out1 it must be knit with plain knitting at the ends or sides1 which to some1 is an objection4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,proceed at once1 without knitting a plain row1 ,put the worsted in front of the pins before beginning to knit1 observing always to keep it so4 ,turn the first stitch1 ,take off the second stitch1 and so on throughout4 ,no4 #d4 ,,open ,,hem4 ,use very fine pins and sewing cotton1 ,set on any number of stitches1 divisable by four1 ,slip the first stitch at the beginning of each row1 ,knit the second stitch1 ,put the cotton over the pin1 to make a stitch2 ,knit two loops together1 ,continue by knitting the next stitch1 ,making a stitch1 c4 c41 as before4 ,no4 #e4 ,,honey-,,comb ,,stitch4 ,this is very applicable for shawls1 purses1 muffatees1 and other fancy articles4 ,knit the first stitch1 ,put the cotton over the pin1 to make a loop1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,continue making a loop1 and knitting two stitches together1 till the row is completed4 ,knit the second row plain1 and so on1 every other row honeycomb-stitch4 ,no4 #f4 ,,french ,,stitch4 ,set on the stitches in fours1 leaving two over4 ,turn the first stitch1 ,turn the thread back1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,bring the thread in front1 ,knit a stitch1 thus forming a new loop1 ,bring the thread again in front1 ,turn a stitch1 one rib or pattern is then complete4 ,begin the next in a similar manner1 by turning the thread back1 and knitting two together at the end of the row1 turn the thread1 and knit the last stitch4 ,no4 #g4 ,,fan-,,tail ,,stitch4 ,this is very suitable for gloves1 mits1 purses1 c4 ,set on fourteen loops1 ,make a loop1 by putting the cotton over the pin1 ,knit a loop1 ,make a loop1 and so on1 ,knit each of the two last plain1 ,then narrow at the second and third stitches1 both at the beginning and ending of each row1 until it is reduced to the original number of fourteen stitches4 ,no4 #h4 ,,imitation ,,net-,,work ,,stitch4 ,set on any even number of stitches you please4 ,knit a row plain1 ,commence the next row by putting the free pin on the wool1 and twisting the wool round it1 by bringing it from behind over the pin1 and putting it behind again1 then knit two loops together1 putting the pin into the one nearest to you first1 then twist the wool round the pin in the manner described above2 knit two together1 and so on to the end4 ,every succeeding row is knit in the same manner4 ,no4 #i4 ,,open ,,cross-,,stitch4 ,this is generally knit with two colours 7suppose blue and brown72 each colour is worked along two rows alternately4 ,in changing colours1 observe that the fresh colour crosses from under the last one1 which prevents its leaving a hole4 ,the first row of each colour is turn-stitched the whole way1 and the second row of each colour is worked as follows3-- ,knit a stitch1 ,make a stitch1 ,slip a stitch1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,draw the slipped loop over the two knit loops4 ,continue to the end of the row1 and then commence two rows with the fresh colour4 ,this is a very suitable stitch for a shawl-handkerchief1 round which1 another pattern of knitting should be made4 ,no4 #aj4 ,,insertion-,,work1 ,,or ,,berlin ,,wire ,,stitch4 ,if knit with fine thread1 and finest needles1 it forms beautiful insertion-work for collars1 capes1 frocks1 c4 ,if knit with large pins1 and lamb's wool1 it is useful for comforters and shawls1 and looks very pretty4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 7,if for insertion-work1 eight1 every four stitches forms one pattern47 ,knit three plain rows or more1 ,take off the first stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,knit off two together1 ,make a stitch1 ,again knit a stitch1 ,knit off two together1 ,make a stitch1 and knit the last stitch1 and so on to the end of the row1 ,every alternate row should be knit plain4 ,no4 #aa4 ,,plain ,,open ,,stitch4 ,set on an even number of stitches4 ,knit two plain rows2 then1 ,knit the first stitch1 ,pass the worsted in front1 ,knit two together1 thus forming a new stitch1 ,again bring the worsted in front1 ,knit two together1 thus forming a new one1 ,and so on1 till the last stitch1 which is knit2 ,knit two more rows1 and so on4 ,this is very suitable for shawls and caps4 ,no4 #ab4 ,,the ,,crow',s-,,foot ,,stitch4 ,this is very suitable for shawls1 in which case1 it should be begun at one of the corners1 and added to at every row4 ,otherwise set on any number of stitches divisible by three1 allowing one over1 to begin with4 ,after knitting one plain row1 begin the pattern as follows3-- ,knit the first stitch1 ,make a stitch1 ,slip a stitch1 ,knit two plain stitches1 ,put the slipped stitch over the two plain ones1 ,again make a stitch1 ,slip a stitch1 and so continue to the end4 ,for the next row1 turn every stitch4 ,no4 #ac4 ,,chain-,,stitch4 ,set on thirteen loops1 ,knit two plain rows1 ,knit three stitches plain1 ,bring the worsted in front1 ,turn seven stitches1 ,turn the worsted back1 and knit the remaining three stitches1 ,knit the next row plain1 ,continue as above1 till you have knit in all sixteen rows2 ,next knit three stitches plain1 ,take off the four next stitches upon a third pin1 ,knit the next three stitches from behind the third pin1 so as entirely to miss it1 drawing the worsted very tight1 so as to connect the pins close together2 ,then1 knit the four stitches off the third pin1 and the twist is completed4 ,knit the remaining three and begin to form a fresh link1 by knitting three stitches1 ,turning seven1 ,knitting three1 and so on2 making sixteen more rows before you twist again4 ,no4 #ad4 ,,the ,,embossed ,,hexagon ,,stitch4 ,set on any number of stitches1 divisable by six1 ,knit a row plain1 ,turn a row1 ,knit a row plain1 ,knit four stitches1 and slip two to the end of the row1 ,turn a row1 slipping the stitches that were slipped in the preceding row1 ,knit a row1 still slipping the two stitches1 ,turn a row1 slipping the same two stitches1 ,knit a row1 slipping the two stitches1 ,turn a row1 slipping the same stitches1 ,turn a row1 taking up every stitch1 ,knit a row plain1 ,turn a row4 ,commence the next pattern by turning a row1 slipping the fifth and sixth stitches1 taking care that the slipped loops come in the centre of the previous pattern1 continue alternately knitting and turning a row1 remembering to slip the two stitches1 till you have done six rows1 when knit a row1 taking up every stitch and so on4 ,no4 #ae4 ,,the ,,common ,,plat4 ,this is very pretty for coverlets1 muffatees1 c4 ,set on any number of stitches in threes4 ,after knitting a plain row1 begin as follows3-- #ast ,row4 ,knit three plain1 and turn three all along4 #bnd ,row4 ,the same as above1 observing to continue from where you left off in the last row1 so that if the row ended in turning1 you should begin with plain stitches and so on4 #crd ,row4 ,observe as above4 ,these three rows form a succession of squares1 of alternate inside and outside knitting4 #dth ,row4 ,as the work of the squares should now cross or sit alternately with those above1 like the squares of a chess-board1 the first three stitches should be the same as those with which the last row is completed4 ,continue turning and knitting plain every alternate three stitches1 and varying the squares every three rows1 till the whole is completed4 ,no4 #af4 ,,the ,,elastic ,,rib4 ,this is very suitable for cuffs and garters1 as it clings or contracts to the form4 ,set on any number of stitches1 ,knit a row1 ,turn a row1 ,knit two rows1 ,turn a row1 ,continue knitting two1 and turning one row to the end of the work4 ,no4 #ag4 ,,the ,,rough-,,cast1 ,,or1 ,,huckaback ,,stitch4 ,set on any uneven number of stitches4 ,knit plain and turn stitch alternately1 observing to begin every row with the plain stitch4 ,this is very pretty1 and firm1 and suitable for borders4 ,no4 #ah4 ,,the ,,embossed ,,diamond4 ,set on any number of stitches1 divisable by seven1 ,knit a row plain4 ,turn a stitch1 then knit five1 and turn two alternately to the end1 ,knit two1 then turn three1 and knit four1 alternately to the end1 ,turn three1 then knit one1 and turn six alternately1 ,knit a row plain4 ,turn two1 and then knit two1 and turn five alternately1 ,knit two1 then turn four1 and knit three alternately1 ,knit six1 and turn one alternately1 ,knit one1 and turn six alternately1 ,knit five1 then turn three1 and knit four alternately1 ,knit three1 then turn two1 and knit five alternately1 ,knit a row plain4 ,no4 #ai4 ,,the ,,ornamental ,,ladder ,,stitch4 ,set on your stitches in elevens1 ,knit two plain stitches1 ,knit two together1 again knit two together1 draw the first loop over the second1 knit one plain1 and then knit two together1 knit two more together1 draw the first loop over second1 knit one plain1 and so on to the end4 ,in the second row1 turn two1 pass the thread twice over the pin1 turn two1 and so on4 ,in the third row1 knit two1 pass the thread twice round the pin1 knit two1 and so on4 ,continue alternately knitting one row and turning one1 till it is the length required1 observing always to slip the loops1 formed by passing the thread twice round the pin off1 without knitting them4 ,no4 #bj4 ,,imitation ,,double ,,knitting4 ,set on any even number of stitches4 ,turn a stitch1 and knit a stitch alternately4 ,as the stitch that was knit before is now to be turned1 commence every row with a turn stitch2 this makes both sides alike1 and though single1 gives it the appearance of double knitting4 ,no4 #ba4 ,,the ,,knit ,,herring-,,bone ,,stitch4 ,set on any number of stitches1 allowing three stitches for each pattern1 and one besides at each end4 ,knit a plain row1 ,take off the first loop1 ,knit two stitches together in turn stitch1 ,make a stitch by passing the wool before1 and knitting one1 ,turn two stitches together1 ,again make and knit a stitch1 and so on1 ,every row is begun and continued the same4 ,no4 #bb4 ,,the ,,purse ,,stitch4 ,set on ninety or an hundred stitches1 ,knit the first stitch1 ,make a stitch by putting the silk over the pin1 ,slip a stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,turn the slipped stitch over the knit one1 ,repeat this till the row is finished1 ,knit the next row in turn stitch1 ,repeat as above1 alternately knitting a row in turn stitch1 till the whole is completed4 ,no4 #bc4 ,,the ,,lace ,,wave ,,stitch4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,slip the first stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,make a stitch 7by putting the cotton over the pin71 ,knit two stitches together to narrow1 ,again knit a stitch1 ,make a stitch1 and narrow till the row is complete1 ,knit the next row plain1 ,next row1 knit two plain stitches1 make a stitch1 narrow two stitches in one1 knit a stitch1 make a stitch1 and narrow to the end of the row1 ,next row1 knit plain1 ,next row1 knit three plain stitches1 and continue as above1 by making a stitch1 narrowing two stitches in one1 and knitting a stitch1 ,next row1 knit plain1 ,next row1 knit four stitches1 and continue as above1 by making one1 narrowing two1 and knitting one stitch4 ,next row1 knit plain1 ,next row1 knit five stitches plain1 and do as above1 ,knit two rows plain4 ,this forms one wave or pattern4 ,continue as above to any length required2 this1 knit with fine thread1 forms beautiful lace for night-cap borders4 ,no4 #bd4 ,,the ,,herring-,,bone ,,bag ,,stitch4 ,set on your stitches by fours1 ,knit two plain stitches1 ,turn the silk twice over the pin to make a long stitch1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,repeat this till the whole is finished4 ,no4 #be4 ,,an ,,improved ,,open ,,stitch4 ,knit the first row plain1 ,knit the second row like the usual open stitch1 by knitting the first stitch1 putting the worsted in front1 to make a stitch1 and knitting two stitches together1 and so on2 ,next knit one row plain1 ,turn-stitch three rows1 and ,knit one row plain1 ,this is particularly suitable for muffatees1 bags1 and reticules4 ,no4 #bf4 ,,the ,,shawl ,,stitch4 ,this is very suitable for shawls1 caps1 and handkerchiefs1 knit with soft wool1 and large pins1 and for mittens1 with fine black thread or silk1 and is done as follows3-- ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,knit the second row in the ,hole-stitch1 the next row in ,turn-stitch1 and so on4 ,no4 #bg4 ,,the ,,cross-,,stitch ,,pattern4 ,this is very suitable for bags1 purses1 gentlemen's caps1 c4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,put the wool over the pin1 and make a stitch1 ,put the needle into two stitches1 and knit them backwards1 and so on4 ,observe to throw the wool properly over the pin1 as1 if wrongly twisted1 it is apt to make two stitches4 ,no4 #bh4 ,,the ,,curb ,,stitch4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,knit a plain row1 ,next row1 knit the first stitch1 after which continue as follows3-- ,bring the wool in front1 turn a stitch1 put the wool back1 knit a stitch1 putting the wool twice over the pin4 ,observe1 in the next row1 the long stitch is the turned stitch4 ,no4 #bi4 ,,the ,,two ,,coloured ,,ribbed ,,stitch4 ,this is a very pretty stitch for cuffs1 mits1 or muffatees1 and should be done in two colours1 or one colour with white4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 and continue knitting1 letting every other stitch be of one colour1 and the alternate loops of the other4 ,observe1 in crossing the worsteds1 always to keep the white wool uppermost4 ,no4 #cj4 ,a ,,beautiful ,,diamond ,,stitch4 ,set on the stitches in threes1 and one over1 ,slip off the first stitch4 ,then knit all along as follows1 always keeping the wool in front1 ,slip one stitch1 holding the loop1 as if going to turn-stitch1 ,put the wool over the pin1 to make a loop1 ,knit two turn stitches in one4 ,next row1 it is to be turn-stitched all the way1 excepting that the formed stitch of the last row is always to be slipped1 taking hold of it as in turning4 ,after the beginning of this alternate row1 there will be always two single turn stitches1 and one slipped stitch all along4 ,no4 #ca4 ,,the ,,raised ,,french ,,stitch4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,turn the wool over the pin to make a stitch1 ,knit two together1 and so on to the end of the row3 ,next row1 turn-stitch the whole way1 ,next row1 knit plain1 ,next row1 turn-stitch1 making in all three plain rows2 ,repeat the whole as above4 ,if this is for a shawl1 increase one stitch at two loops from the end of the needle1 always at the same place1 once in every rib4 ,no4 #cb4 ,,the ,,two ,,coloured ,,chain ,,stitch4 ,this is a very pretty stitch1 and is suitable for muffatees1 bags1 and mats4 ,it is knit with two wools1 coloured and white1 and is done as follows3-- ,set on the required number of stitches1 and knit in the coloured wool alternately with the white4 ,to form the chain-like appearance1 observe to cross the wool1 with which the loop is being knit1 over the wool of the last loop4 ,observe to knit off the white loops with the coloured wool1 and the coloured loops with the white wool4 ,no4 #cc4 ,,the ,,rug ,,stitch4 ,this is knit with fine pins and worsted of a common kind1 and the rug or woolly part is composed of soft thick wool4 ,set on any number of stitches1 and knit one plain row1 after which1 begin with the wool1 knitting first one plain stitch1 and then pass the wool between the pins1 round the second or third finger1 according to the depth required1 and in front between the pins4 ,knit another plain stitch1 and again carry the wool between the pins1 round the fingers in front1 and make another stitch1 and so on to the end of the row1 when cut off the wool1 and knit the row back with the worsted1 which secures the fringe4 ,lay the wool between the pins again1 after knitting the first plain stitch1 and continue as before1 making a loop of fringe between each plain stitch1 and so on4 ,after knitting the number of rows required1 cut the fringe and open the wool as much as possible1 taking care not to pull it out4 ,no4 #cd4 ,,the ,,nondescript4 ,set on any number of stitches1 knit as follows1 always slipping the first stitch2 ,make a stitch1 by putting the wool over the pin1 ,knit a stitch2 ,next row1 knit two stitches together all along the pin2 ,continue as above4 ,no4 #ce4 ,a ,,new ,,stitch4 ,set on any number of stitches1 ,put the wool over the pin to make a stitch1 ,turn a stitch1 and so on3 ,next row1 turn-stitch1 taking two loops at once the whole way4 ,no4 #cf4 ,,the ,,new ,,muffatee ,,stitch4 ,set on any even number of stitches1 ,slip the first stitch1 then knit as follows3-- ,put the wool in front of the pin1 then take up a loop of the former row on the pin1 then turn a stitch1 take up a loop as before1 turn a stitch as before1 and so on2 ,next row1 turn-stitch all along1 taking two loops at once4 ,no4 #a4 ,,fringe4 ,set on eight stitches1 ,knit a plain round1 ,slip the first loop1 ,double the wool1 and put the knot over the pin2 knit two loops1 put the wool behind1 knit one1 bring it in front1 knit two1 turn it behind1 and knit one2 turn it again in front1 and knit the last loop1 then knit a plain row4 ,in the third row1 slip the first loop1 put the little finger of the left hand through the fringe1 and pass the wool for the next loop1 round the finger also1 then turn it over the pin1 and knit the row as before4 ,no4 #b4 ,,another ,,fringe4 ,this is very suitable for doyleys and pincushion covers2 in which case1 it must be knit with cotton4 ,set on twelve stitches1 ,knit a stitch1 ,make a stitch1 by putting the cotton over the pin1 ,knit two stitches in one1 ,continue this till the row is finished4 ,proceed onwards until a strip of sufficient length is made to go round the doyley or article for which it is intended4 ,then fasten off six of the stitches1 letting the other six drop off your pins1 and unrove it down the whole length of the strip1 to form the fringe4 ,sew it on with coarse white cotton4 ,no4 #c4 ,a ,,shawl ,,fringe4 ,cast on five stitches1 ,slip off the first stitch1 ,knit the second stitch1 ,make a stitch1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,at the last stitch1 twist the cotton three times over the pin and the second finger1 or over the pin and a mesh of the proper depth of the fringe1 and knit it firmly on4 ,let every alternate row be plain4 ,no4 #d4 ,a ,,beautiful ,,fringe ,,and ,,border4 ,set on an even number of stitches of any depth sufficient to allow for the fringe1 and for the head of the fringe1 and knit thus3-- ,make a stitch1 by laying the wool over the needle4 ,put the needle in two loops1 and knit them in one1 just contrary to the usual way4 ,continue thus1 row after row1 until a strip of sufficient length is done4 ,fasten off1 letting four1 six1 eight1 or ten stitches drop off the pin to unrove for the fringe4 ,no4 #e4 ,a ,,very ,,pretty ,,fringe1 ,for mats1 handkerchiefs1 mits1 c4 ,use fine pins and common worsted for knitting the fringe1 which should be of thick handsome wool4 ,set on as many stitches as are required for the length of the piece of fringe4 ,knit one plain row1 ,next row1 knit one stitch1 ,lay the wool 7either singly1 or doubly1 or even trebly1 if required very full7 between the pins1 from the front towards the back1 round the second or third finger1 according to the depth required1 and back again through the pins in front4 ,knit the next stitch1 and again carry the wool behind round the fingers1 to make another loop of fringe1 and when brought forward between the pins1 make another stitch and so on1 to the end of the row1 after which1 knit a plain row back1 to secure it more firmly1 knitting alternately with the wool and worsted1 fastening off as you go along4 ,no #f4 ,,fringe ,,for ,,curtains4 ,this is a useful and very pretty fringe for toilet tables1 curtains1 pincushions1 c41 and is made of cotton1 wool1 worsted1 silk1 or any other material2 the first1 however1 is more useful1 because it washes well4 ,set on ten stitches1 and knit every row as follows3-- ,slip the first stitch1 ,knit the next stitch1 ,put the cotton over the pin twice1 ,turn two stitches together1 ,turn the cotton back1 ,put the cotton or wool1 for the fringe1 over the pin1 leaving the ends behind4 ,knit one stitch1 turn the wool in front1 knit two stitches1 turn the wool behind1 knit two stitches1 again bring the wool in front1 and knit the remaining stitch4 ,knit a row plain1 taking the wool with the stitch when you come to it1 to make it quite firm4 ,the fringe should be cut in pieces of the proper length1 and three or four taken together1 to be knit in at once4 ,,stockings4 ,knit stockings are considered so much better than woven ones for wear1 that it is advisable for all servants1 cottagers and labourers invariably to adopt them1 as the former will last out three or more of the woven1 which are more suitable for the higher classes4 ,the children of the poor should always be taught to knit1 and each member of a family ought to have a stocking in hand to take up at idle moments1 by which means many pairs might be completed in the year4 ,it is difficult to make very correct scales for different sized knit stockings1 as so much depends on the quality of the worsted and of the pins1 as also on the knitter1 as some persons work much slacker than others1 so that two stockings knit with the same pins and worsted1 may be of very different sizes when knit by different persons4 ,the following proportion for a general rule is good1 and may prove useful1 though to tolerably experienced knitters1 it is recommended to procure a pair of stockings that fit very well1 and to knit others like them1 which can easily be done by means of constantly measuring and comparing them with the pattern4 ,,general ,,proportions ,,for ,,stockings4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,ascertain the proper breadth of the stocking4 ,from the top to the bend of the knee is one square1 or the length of the breadth4 ,from the bend of the knee to the beginning of the calf is one square or breadth4 ,from the beginning to the end of the calf1 is one square or breadth4#b #b ,in this square1 we narrow as many stitches as are contained on one of our three pins1 narrowing always twice on the same row1 placing one of them on each side of the seam stitch4 ,we calculate the number of rows intervening between each narrowing1 by dividing half the number of stitches contained on one pin1 with the number of stitches contained on the three1 and abide by the result4 ,for the small of the leg1 one square or breadth2 for the heel1 half a square2 for the narrowing on each side of the instep1 one quarter of a square2 from the heel to the narrowing of the toe1 one and a half square2 for the narrowing1 a quarter of a square4 ,observe1 that the squares always relate to the breadth of the stocking1 at the time the next square is begun4 ,in making up stockings1 see that the pins and worsted are suitable to each other2 observe also to knit regularly1 and let but one person knit each pair1 otherwise they will not match or look well4 ,stockings are knit with four pins1 three of which hold the stitches1 and the fourth serves to knit with4 ,after setting on the number of stitches required1 dividing them equally on the three pins 7always observing1 however1 that one pin has an uneven number71 commence knitting round and round1 according to the scale1 taking care always to make the middle or odd stitch in the one pin a turn-stitch1 which forms a kind of seam down the stocking1 and serves as a guide1 by which the place of narrowing is more easily ascertained4 ,after welting several rounds or bouts1 continue knitting and widening1 or narrowing1 according to the scale1 observing to widen or narrow invariably on each side1 within one loop of the seam-stitch4 ,for a description of welting1 widening1 narrowing1 binding1 c41 refer to knitting stitches and terms4 ,after knitting the heel and foot1 the stitches are put upon two pins instead of three1 and the narrowing begun and continued2 after which it is fastened off1 and the stocking completed4 ,,scale ,,for ,,stockings4 ,observe these are the proper proportions for stockings1 when knit with coarse worsted and pins4 ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,child,child,child,child,child of #d of #f of #i of #abof #ad ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,stitches on each pin1 allowing one extra for the seam-stitch in the #af #ah #bj #be #cj middle of one pin ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,stitches altogether1 including the #di #ee #fa #gf #ia seam stitch ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,knit rows for welting #h #h #h #aj #aj ,plain rows1 or two squares #di #ee #fa #gf #ia ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,number of double narrowings1 one on each side of the seam-stitch1 #h #i #aj #ab #ae at three rows between ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,stitches altogether #cc #cg #da #ea #fa ,plain rows to the heel #af #ah #bj #be #cj ,stitches upon one pin for the heel #ag #ai #ba #bg #ca ,knit rows for the heel #i #aj #aa #ac #af ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,narrowings on each side the seam #b #b #b #c #c stitch1 at one row between ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,bind down the heel ,pick up loops on each side of the #i #aj #aa #ac #af seam-stitch ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,widen one row every third stitch on #d #e #e #f #h each side of the heel ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,narrow at the two corners of the #bd #bg #cj #cg #de heel1 at one row between ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,knit off plain rows ,put half the stitches on one pin and half on the other1 and narrow till #f #h #h #aj #aj there are stitches left on each pin ,bind down and fasten off ---------------------------------------- ---------------------- ,child,child ,man's ,man's of #afof #ah ,small or ,large4 ,woman's ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,stitches on each pin1 allowing one extra for the seam-stitch in the #cc #ce #db #de middle of one pin ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,stitches altogether1 including the #ajj #ajf #abg #acf seam stitch ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,knit rows for welting #ab #af #bj #bd ,plain rows1 or two squares #ajj #ajf #abg #acf ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,number of double narrowings1 one on each side of the seam-stitch1 #af #ag #ba #bb at three rows between ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,stitches altogether #fg #ga #he #ia ,plain rows to the heel #cc #ce #db #de ,stitches upon one pin for the heel #ce #cg #dc #dg ,knit rows for the heel #ah #ai #bb #bd ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,narrowings on each side the seam #c #d #d #d stitch1 at one row between ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,bind down the heel ,pick up loops on each side of the #ah #ai #bb #bd seam-stitch ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,widen one row every third stitch on #i #i #aa #ab each side of the heel ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,narrow at the two corners of the #di #eb #fc #fg heel1 at one row between ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,knit off plain rows ,put half the stitches on one pin and half on the other1 and narrow till #aa #aa #ab #ab there are stitches left on each pin ,bind down and fasten off ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,,socks4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,socks are often worn by men and boys of all classes1 and are made similarly to the stockings1 excepting that the knitter begins immediately after the two squares knit for stockings2 welting1 of course1 several bouts4 ,,garters4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,these are chiefly worn by females1 and are merely narrow strips of knitting1 of three-quarters of a yard long1 and a nail1 more or less1 wide4 ,they are made of worsted1 cotton1 or soft wool2 the latter is most elastic and pleasant4 ,for garters1 set on from twelve to twenty1 or even thirty stitches1 according to the fineness of the material4 ,knit backwards and forwards till of the proper length1 when fasten off4 ,some persons prefer a loop at the end2 for which purpose1 when near the end1 divide the stitches equally upon two pins1 and knit each pin about ten ribs1 after which connect them together by binding them in fastening off4 ,garters are sometimes knit by putting the material1 which is fine1 twice round the pin at every stitch1 letting the pin be very thick4 ,garters are sometimes ribbed1 at others knit1 in a succession of squares of different patterns4 ,,babys' ,,socks4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,set on thirty loops4 ,knit three ribs4 ,narrow each end4 ,knit three ribs4 ,narrow each end4 ,knit three ribs4 ,narrow each end4 ,knit one row plain4 ,there are now eleven ribs and twenty-four loops on your pin4 ,put twelve on another pin1 and add fourteen4 ,knit three ribs1 and narrow at the toe4 ,knit three ribs1 narrow at the toe4 ,knit three ribs1 narrow at the toe4 ,narrow at the heel every other row three times4 ,there ought to be thirteen ribs4 ,add fourteen loops to the twelve left on the other pin1 and do the same4 ,join the two together and sew up the sock4 ,,babys' ,,socks1 ,,another ,,kind4 ,set on twenty-four stitches4 ,widen at the beginning of each row1 till there are twenty-eight stitches4 ,knit ten ribs1 narrow at the heel1 twice at one end4 ,take twelve on one pin and add twelve1 make another side the same1 and fasten off4 ,add fourteen stitches to the twelve that were left1 widen each end every rib till there are thirty4 ,knit ten ribs and fasten off4 ,,babys' ,,socks ,,or ,,boots4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #be4 ,set on twenty-two stitches4 ,knit three ribs1 widening at the beginning and end of each rib4 ,knit five ribs1 widening at the toe end of each rib4 ,stitches altogether1 thirty-three4 ,knit three plain ribs1 ,take off eleven stitches from the toe end upon one pin1 and fasten off the rest4 ,knit six ribs1 widening every rib at the toe1 ,knit six ribs1 narrowing every rib at the toe1 ,add twenty-two stitches to the eleven already on the pin1 making thirty-three4 ,knit three plain ribs1 ,knit five ribs1 narrowing at the end of each rib1 ,knit three ribs1 narrowing at the beginning and end of each rib1 and fasten off4 ,this forms the shoe part of the sock1 and is knit of some pretty colour1 as green or blue4 ,for the sock or upper part1 pick up twelve stitches from the front or top of the shoe1 and knit with white wool4 ,knit nine ribs1 connecting it with the sides1 by picking up the stitches at each edge1 as you knit along ,pick up the remaining coloured stitches on each side1 ,knit three plain ribs1 and then one row widened at the beginning and end alternately1 for four times2 ,then knit two ribs1 after which1 one rib more of coloured work1 and fasten off1 ,sew up the seams1 and the sock is completed4 ,,babys' ,,socks1 ,,or ,,slippers4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bf1 #bg4 ,this is a very pretty kind of sock1 and from being worn in two colours with a kind of sandal1 resembles slippers worn over stockings4 ,set on twenty stitches of coloured wool1 ,widen one at the beginning and end of each rib1 four times1 ,widen at the beginning1 or toe end of each rib1 for two ribs1 ,knit two plain ribs1 ,knit nine stitches at the toe end1 and fasten off the remaining ones1 ,knit the nine stitches1 two ribs plain1 ,widen at the beginning1 or toe end of the three next ribs1 ,knit three plain ribs1 ,narrow at the beginning1 or toe end of the next three ribs1 ,knit two plain ribs1 ,knit the next row1 which should consist of nine stitches1 and add twenty-one stitches1 ,knit two plain ribs1 ,narrow at the toe end of each rib1 for two more ribs1 ,narrow at the beginning and end of each rib1 for four times1 and fasten off1 ,pick up thirteen stitches1 in the front of the boot1 ,knit eight plain stitches in white wool1 ,widen at the beginning1 and end of the next rib1 ,knit one plain rib1 ,pick up the stitches on both sides at the top of the boot on the same pin1 ,knit two plain ribs in coloured wool1 and continue afterwards in white wool1 ,narrow at the beginning and end of the next rib1 ,knit two plain ribs1 ,widen at the beginning1 and end of the next rib1 ,knit three plain ribs1 ,widen at the beginning1 and end of the next rib1 ,knit three plain ribs1 ,knit another rib in coloured wool1 fasten off1 and put a little ribbon bow in front of the boot4 ,sew or lace up the square in front of the boot all round4 ,,child',s ,,long ,,sock4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,this may be knit either of two colours1 or entirely of white4 ,set on thirty-four stitches1 ,knit sixteen rows1 turning every other stitch to form a welt1 ,knit one rib of coloured wool and two of white1 alternately four times1 ,knit two ribs white1 ,take fifteen stitches on one pin1 and add fifteen stitches1 ,knit twelve plain ribs in coloured wool1 ,knit three ribs1 narrowing at the beginning and end of each row1 and fasten off2 ,take up the fifteen stitches which project beyond the leg1 and which form the top or front of the boot1 ,knit twelve plain ribs1 ,knit three plain ribs1 narrowing at the beginning and end of each row1 and fasten off4 ,the loose slit in front must be connected to the shoe part1 by knitting two stitches in the centre1 forming a hole on each side1 through which the ribbon is drawn4 ,sew up the sock and it is completed4 ,sometimes the boot has a little white intermixed with the colour2 in which case1 the coloured wool is simply laid inside1 and brought forward when wanted4 ,,child',s ,,first ,,stocking ,,or ,,sock4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bi1 #cj4 ,this is commonly made with fine cotton1 letting two rows be knit in stocking1 and one in garter or turn-stitch1 alternately the whole way4 ,set on twenty-two stitches to each of three pins1 ,knit round and round for fifty-four rows1 ,put thirty-three stitches on one pin for the heel1 ,knit thirty-three rows1 and bind the heel1 ,pick up the remaining stitches1 so as to have twenty-two again on each pin1 ,narrow once at each end of the heel for five rows1 ,knit seventy-three rows1 ,bind down the toe and fasten off4 ,,the ,,ribbed ,,boot4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,set on twenty stitches on each of the three pins1 ,knit a square1 ,put thirty stitches on one pin1 and the remaining thirty on another pin1 ,continue knitting the thirty stitches on the pin for the instep1 towards the toe1 which is generally about two squares1 ,then narrow at each end till but five stitches remain on the pin1 then fasten off2 ,next1 take the other thirty stitches1 and knit a square for the heel and fasten off2 ,knit two gores to put in between the front and heel on each side1 for which purpose1 ,set on twenty stitches1 and narrow at the beginning of every other row till it ends in a point1 ,set in the gores1 ,next1 make a sole by setting on fourteen stitches1 or any number1 according to the width of the foot4 ,knit it straight along1 till of a sufficient length1 ,sew the sole upon the boot1 and the whole is complete4 ,this boot is generally ribbed by knitting two stitches and turning two4 ,,the ,,over ,,shoe4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,this is very convenient to slip over a satin shoe1 or as a house shoe4 ,set on thirty-four stitches4 ,knit a plain square1 double it1 and sew it up one side to form the heel2 sew up about three inches to form the instep1 and pucker in the end for the toe4 ,,the ,,snow-,,heel4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cc4 ,this is very useful in slippery weather for persons to put over their shoe or boot heels1 to prevent their falling4 ,it is particularly good for old people and children4 ,set on sixty-six stitches on one pin1 ,knit five ribs1 ,finish off four stitches on each side1 and continue knitting the middle part1 ,knit fourteen ribs1 ,knit twenty-five stitches1 then narrow2 knit six1 again narrow1 and then knit the remainder4 ,continue narrowing every alternate row twice in the row1 reducing the six centre stitches every time1 so that at the sixth narrowing there are none of them left4 ,fasten off4 ,,little ,,night ,,boots4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cd4 ,these are made by knitting a piece of six nails long1 and a nail and a half or more deep4 ,this1 when fastened at the ends1 is sewed to a sole1 which is made by knitting an oval piece4 ,for this sole1 set on about six stitches and knit on1 widening at both ends1 till about fifteen stitches are upon the pin2 continue knitting till nearly of the proper length1 and then begin narrowing down to the six stitches again4 ,fasten off4 ,the sides of the boot are generally ornamented by knitting four rows of garter-stitch of one colour1 and then four rows of stocking-stitch of another1 and so on throughout4 ,about thirty stitches may be set on the pin4 ,a ,,very ,,pretty ,,over ,,shoe4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,set on thirty-six stitches on each of three pins2 ,knit one plain round1 after which knit fifty rows 7more or less1 according to pleasure7 in the welt of three1 by which means it is ribbed up and elastic1 and will fit almost any person's foot4 ,if for a child of five or six years old1 set on eighteen stitches to each pin4 ,,socks ,,for ,,invalids1 ,,or ,,those ,,who ,,have ,,cold ,,feet4 ,these are very useful for those who have cold feet1 either to wear in bed1 or slip over the stockings when dressing2 and as they set quite close to the foot and ankle1 they give a great deal of warmth4 ,they are best made of floss wool of five or six threads1 and about two and a half ounces of wool is sufficient for each pair4 ,whalebone or wooden pins are used2 they should not be very thick1 considerably less than a drawing pencil4 ,for women's full sized socks cast on thirty-six stitches on three needles1 and knit ten plain rows1 then turn the first stitch of the next row2 after this1 for the thirty following rows1 narrow thus--the two last loops of the last needle must be knit as one2 turn the first loop of the next row1 and take the two next loops off at once1 taking hold of the loops at the back instead of in the usual way4 ,after this you begin to welt1 and the depth of the welting is regulated by fancy4 ,,very ,,pretty ,,knit ,,boots4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cf4 ,commonly called ,derby jail boots1 at which place the female prisoners are employed in making them4 ,,scale ,,for ,,knit ,,boots4 ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,child,child,child ---------------- of #h of #ajof #ab ---------------------------------------- ------------------ ,loops set on one pin #ad #af #ah ,widen every rib on one end till the #ag #ai #ba number of loops are ,knit plain ribs #b #c #c ,narrow every rib on one end1 till the number of loops are #ad #af #ah ,number of loops to be added1 half of which are to be set on the pin with the stitches already on1 and the other half on a fresh pin immediately joining it #bj #bb #bd ,pick up the stitches on the second pin1 which were first set on for the toe ,ribs knit for the side of the foot #g #h #i ,pick up loops to the toe ,ribs for the bottom of the foot #a #b #b ,pick up the loops round the ankle1 and narrow every rib on the right side three or four stitches from #aj #aa #ab the front of the rows ,fasten off ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,child,child,child ---------------- of #adof #afof #ah,woman ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,loops set on one pin #bb #bd #bf #bh ,widen every rib on one end till the #bf #bh #ca #cc number of loops are ,knit plain ribs #c #d #d #d ,narrow every rib on one end1 till the number of loops are #bb #bd #bf #bh ,number of loops to be added1 half of which are to be set on the pin with the stitches already on1 and the other half on a fresh pin immediately joining it #bh #cj #cb #cd ,pick up the stitches on the second pin1 which were first set on for the toe ,ribs knit for the side of the foot #aa #ab #ac #ad ,pick up loops to the toe ,ribs for the bottom of the foot #b #c #c #d ,pick up the loops round the ankle1 and narrow every rib on the right side three or four stitches from #ad #af #ah #bj the front of the rows ,fasten off ---------------------------------------- ----------------------- ,these boots may be knit in two wools1 white and coloured4 ,they should have leather soles sewed on1 to make them more durable4 ,they should have fringe1 and worsted platted strings4 ,,night ,,socks4 ,coarse lamb's wool and thick pins4 ,set on thirty-six stitches1 knit ten ribs1 put eighteen on one pin1 and knit twelve ribs2 narrow each rib at the heel twice1 making in all fourteen ribs4 ,the other side the same4 ,pick up loops on both the side pieces2 for the toe1 knit ten ribs2 narrow every rib on each side1 so that the narrowings shall be on the sides of the foot1 and not at the bottom2 seven narrowings1 and finish in a point4 ,,very ,,neat ,,night ,,socks4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #cg4 ,set forty-six stitches on one pin1 ,knit twenty-seven plain ribs1 ,add twenty stitches1 setting them equally on three pins1 ,knit twenty-six plain bouts or rounds1 ,divide the stitches1 letting half of them lie on one pin1 and the other half equally divided between two pins4 ,this arrangement makes it easier to knit than on two pins1 and1 at the same time1 distinctly marks the half for the two narrowings2 ,narrow on each side of the pin with half the stitches4 ,,square ,,night ,,boots4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ch4 ,set on forty loops1 knit the two first stitches plain1 the rest double knitting till it is a square bag2 fasten it off1 making it to open at the top2 large pins and coarse2 lamb's wool4 ,,knit ,,sole4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ci4 ,this is a sole to put within a shoe or boot1 and is made in double knitting and sewed to a piece of stiff muslin of the proper shape1 and bound all round with ribbon4 ,for a good average size1 set on fourteen stitches1 knit in double knitting for twenty-three rows1 and fasten off4 ,the knitting must be brought into shape by taking it in with the galloon1 when wanted to be narrowed4 ,,knee ,,cap4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #dj4 ,set on one pin forty-seven stitches1 ,knit plain seventeen ribs1 ,next row1 knit twenty-three plain stitches1 widen1 knit a stitch1 widen again1 and knit the remaining twenty-three stitches4 ,every alternate row1 widen at each of the above widenings exactly in a straight line1 so that the increase of stitches falls in the centre1 forming a gore or half diamond4 ,knit sixteen plain ribs1 ,next row1 knit twenty-three plain stitches1 narrow1 knit thirty-six stitches1 narrow again1 knit the remaining twenty-three stitches4 ,every alternate row1 narrow in a straight line1 over each of these two narrowings1 so as to reduce the stitches between by degrees to a point again1 at the end of thirteen ribs4 ,knit thirty-one plain ribs2 ,next row1 fasten off four stitches1 and knit the rest of the row2 knit a plain row2 ,next row1 fasten off four more stitches1 and knit the rest of the row2 knit a plain row2 ,next row1 same as above1 and then fasten off1 and sew up the seams4 ,,knit ,,gloves1 ,,large ,,size4 ,put eighteen stitches on a pin1 leave about thirteen rows open 7by knitting backwards and forwards instead of round7 for the thumb2 knit round till you come to the fingers4 ,put half the stitches on one pin1 and half on the other4 ,take nine stitches off each pin for the first finger1 and add eight between the first and second finger to make a gore1 then there will be twenty-six stitches on your pins altogether2 knit two rows plain1 narrow every other row at each end of the eight loops you added1 for three times on each side2 there should now be twenty stitches left4 ,knit plain till the finger is long enough4 ,then narrow twice at each end of the finger1 leaving one stitch between the two narrowings on each side4 ,do this every other row three times1 when there will be eight loops left1 divide them on two pins and bind them down4 ,for the second finger1 take six stitches off each pin1 and pick up eleven stitches for a gore1 between the second and third fingers4 ,knit two rows plain2 there should then be thirty-four stitches2 narrow every other row on each side of both the gores three times4 ,there should then be twenty-two stitches4 ,finish the finger like the other4 ,for the third finger1 take six stitches off each pin1 pick up ten at the bottom of the last gore1 and add ten for the new gore2 there are then thirty-two stitches4 ,narrow as before1 and there should then be twenty left4 ,for the little finger1 pick up ten stitches for the gore1 and the six off the two pins make twenty-two1 after the narrowings there should be sixteen stitches left4 ,for the thumb1 pick up three stitches at the bottom of the hole1 and knit backwards and forwards1 picking up an extra stitch each time1 till there are sixteen stitches on a pin1 then pick up three at the top1 and knit backwards and forwards till there are eight4 ,join all together1 and knit round2 finish the thumb as the fingers4 ,,driving ,,mits4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #da4 ,these are very useful for gentlemen or coachmen1 in severe weather1 being double on the out1 and single in the inside4 ,set on forty stitches on ivory pins1 of thick soft floss wool4 ,knit several rows in double knitting until half the muffatee is completed1 when knit the remainder in imitation double knitting1 which is not so clumsy for the palm of the hand1 when grasping reins1 c4 ,when completed1 sew it up1 leaving a hole of a full nail for the thumb1 at half a nail's distance from the end4 ,,baby',s ,,mittens4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #db4 ,set on twenty stitches on each of three pins1 and knit plain one square4 ,knit backwards and forwards along two of the pins1 letting every other row be turn-stitch1 for another square1 and fasten off4 ,knit the other pin in a similar manner for thirty rows1 and fasten off4 ,sew up the hand and thumb1 and add a fringe or a ribbon to tie1 or1 if preferred1 it may be begun with a welt at the wrist4 ,,mittens4 ,set on twenty-two loops on each of the three pins1 welt twenty rows1 knit one row plain1 next row alternate turn and plain1 third row plain1 fourth row alternate plain and turn1 so that the plain stitch is over the one that was turned before1 and so on till you come to the beginning of the thumb4 ,then knit backwards and forwards1 leaving a hole for the thumb4 ,then knit round again1 and finish with a welt4 ,to make a thumb1 pick up three loops at the top of the hole left1 and knit backwards and forwards1 picking up an additional loop at the end of each row1 for about ten rows4 ,then pick up three loops at the bottom of the hole1 and do the same till you meet the stitches at the top4 ,join all together and knit round and round till it is long enough2 welt five or six rows and finish4 ,,the ,,knit ,,armlet4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #dc4 ,this is very suitable for school girls to wear over their arms1 or for old persons1 or people when travelling4 ,they may be made as high as the elbow1 or up to the shoulder4 ,little children1 in severe weather1 wear them over their little naked arms to prevent them from chapping4 ,fine black lamb's wool is most usually worn1 in which case1 it should be well steeped in vinegar1 and then dried1 to prevent the dye coming off4 ,for a grown-up person1 one hundred stitches will reach to the elbow4 ,knit plain1 as you would a garter1 backwards and forwards1 using large ivory or steel pins4 ,about twenty rows 7more or less1 according to the size of the arm7 are sufficient4 ,sew down the whole length1 leaving an opening of about a nail long to admit the thumb1 sewing beyond it to the end1 about half a nail or less4 ,when worn1 they cling to the hand and arm1 keep them warm1 and look particularly neat4 ,some persons prefer them welted at the top and bottom1 or ribbed the whole way4 ,,knit ,,muffatee4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #dd4 ,this is made simply by setting on forty stitches1 and knitting three rows plain and three rows turn-stitch1 till wide enough1 when it is sewed up1 leaving a hole for the thumb4 ,it looks very neat in black or light grey4 ,use finest wool and pins4 ,,muffatee4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #de4 ,this is in plain knitting4 ,set on twenty stitches1 ,knit twenty-eight ribs4 ,fringe is sewed on with a carpet needle in a kind of cross-stitch1 being wound over a mesh of the proper width4 ,,muffatee4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #bf4 ,this is extremely pretty1 made of the two coloured ribbed stitch1 or the two coloured chain stitch4 ,set on thirty loops1 and knit the first and last three loops of every pin plain knitting1 of one colour1 to make a kind of border4 ,continue this for about twenty-two ribs1 when sew up1 and either add fringe1 or not1 according to pleasure4 ,,muffatees4 ,use fine pins and merino wool4 ,set on seventy four loops1 knit six rows1 backwards and forwards1 then six rows double knitting1 and so on alternately three times of double1 and four of plain2 then knit twelve double1 six plain1 and finish off4 ,sew it up4 ,,muffatees4 ,set on an even number of stitches 7twenty for a child1 thirty for a lady1 or fifty for a man7 on an ivory pin4 ,knit four1 six1 or eight stitches plain1 according to the above sizes1 and continue the row in imitation double knitting stitch1 making as many plain stitches at the end of the row1 as at the beginning4 ,continue knitting backwards and forwards until sufficient is done for the thickness of the wrist4 ,sew or lace it up1 and it is completed4 ,,frill ,,or ,,ruff4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #dg4 ,these are very soft for children1 and are generally knit of two coloured wools and with ivory pins of a middling thickness4 ,set on thirty-five stitches for a child1 and fifty for a grown-up person4 ,knit three plain rows with the coloured wool1 ,knit ten rows1 putting the wool twice round the pin1 with white wool4 ,again1 knit four plain rows with the coloured wool1 and ten rows putting the wool twice round the pin1 with the white wool4 ,knit three plain rows with the coloured wool1 and fasten off4 ,make up the frill as follows3-- ,plat or double each white row1 making the three sets of white rows lie side by side1 so as to stand up1 and have a square appearance4 ,when done1 lay the frill the wrong side uppermost1 and sew the middle row of each set of stitches together1 side by side1 all along4 ,sew a ribbon at each end1 to tie4 ,a ,,ruff4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,this is particularly useful for children to tie round the neck1 and is knit with fine wool and coarse pins4 ,it may be knit in the raised ,french stitch1 or the open hem1 or any other elastic soft stitch4 ,set a sufficient number of stitches on the pin to be about two nails wide1 and knit six or eight nails long1 and when done1 sew up along the side1 and after drawing a piece of rolled wadding through1 draw it1 or sew it up at each end1 and attach ribbons1 or worsted cord to tie it4 ,it resembles a boa in shape4 ,a ,,scarf4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #di4 ,set on sixty stitches 7more or less1 according to taste71 always choosing an even number1 and knit along in the 8,imitation ,network ,stitch1 ,no4 #h10 to the length required1 from one yard and a half to two yards4 ,next make a fringe by setting on eighteen stitches1 and1 after knitting a sufficient quantity in the same stitch to sew along the two ends1 fasten off1 leaving1 however1 fourteen stitches to unrove1 to form the fringe4 ,these scarfs look beautiful in shaded colours1 and may be knit of floss silk1 netting silk1 cotton1 thread1 or wool4 ,the above number of stitches is calculated for wool4 ,,another ,,scarf4 ,this is made of the 8,french ,raised ,stitch1 ,no4 #ca10 and looks exceedingly beautiful1 when made with fine wool and small pins4 ,the number of stitches depends1 of course1 on the quality of the wool2 it is therefore impossible to set down any fixed number2 suffice it to say it should be made of the usual width4 ,at the ends fix some long fringe1 of which there are various kinds given in this work4 ,,comforter4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,for one comforter1 buy a quarter of a pound of lamb's wool4 ,the six thread1 untwisted1 is the best4 ,set forty stitches on a pin1 and1 if the pins are not very thick1 put the wool twice round them while knitting every stitch1 which should be knit in double knitting1 and may have a border and fringe at the ends to give a finish1 in which case1 a little more wool will be required4 ,,comforter4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,set thirty stitches on one pin1 ,knit sixty-four plain ribs1 backwards and forwards1 ,pick up twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side of the piece1 leaving twenty-one stitches on each side from the end4 ,knit on backwards and forwards for twenty-two ribs1 to make a chest piece1 and fasten off4 ,sew up the two ends of the long piece1 and it is completed4 ,when worn1 the comforter is drawn over the head1 letting the chest piece hang down in front4 ,this is knit with soft wool and upon ivory pins4 ,,another ,,comforter1 ,,the ,,same ,,shape1 ,,but ,,done ,,in ,,double ,,knitting4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ea4 ,set on fifty-four stitches1 and knit in double knitting1 about sixty-six or seventy rows1 and fasten off1 by knitting or binding the two ends together4 ,from the middle of the length in front1 pick up stitches for the chest piece1 and knit forty rows or more1 according to pleasure4 ,a ,,handkerchief4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,this is a small and very warm handkerchief1 to wear under a shawl or fur tippet1 in the winter2 it is knit with pretty thick floss wool1 either white or coloured1 in blue or crimson it looks well2 the needles used are either of wood1 whalebone1 or cane4 ,cast on #afj common stitches1 and knit one plain row1 then nine rows of double knitting with a plain stitch at the beginning and end of each row1 continue this double knitting1 narrowing at one end1 until the handkerchief is brought to five or six stitches1 then take it off like a garter4 ,this bottom corner is bound with ribbon1 and two strings put on to tie round the waist1 the other two ends are also bound1 and a ribbon loop put on each1 the ribbon passes through these loops1 and it fits neatly to the figure4 ,,little ,,knit ,,habit-,,shirt4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ec1 #ed1 #ee4 ,these are remarkably nice things to wear under the shawl1 as they set close to the chest1 and give a great deal of warmth4 ,they are best knit with small wooden or thick steel pins1 and with floss wool1 about three or four threads1 and in double knitting4 ,the habit-shirt is in four pieces1 namely1 one back1 two fronts and one collar4 ,the back should be cut out to fit the person tolerably1 and the fronts joined to it on the shoulder1 and brought across over the chest4 ,observe1 in the ,plate that in ,fig4 #ec1 ,,ss represent the straight parts1 and ,,pp the sloped4 ,begin to knit the front1 by setting on as many stitches as will form the length required from ,s to ,a1 or top1 and observe1 as you continue knitting1 that one end of the knitting must be much more sloped than the other1 for which purpose1 at that end most sloped1 increase at the beginning and end of the row1 but at the side which is less sloped1 widen only at the end of the pin4 ,having made the two fronts to match each other so as to be a pair1 begin making the back4 ,begin it at the bottom or narrow straight part at the waist2 increase it at the beginning and end of each row1 till sufficiently wide to go from shoulder to shoulder2 after which1 diminish in the same way at each end of every row to the neck4 ,take off or finish the few centre stitches that may remain1 and knit up first on one side1 and then on the other1 lessening each row till it is properly hollowed4 ,the collar is merely a straight piece4 ,in making up1 sew the sides marked ,p1 to each side of the back marked ,,zz1 and sew on the collar all round4 ,put a ribbon behind1 to tie round the waist1 and another at the throat4 ,a ,,pretty ,,knit ,,half-,,handkerchief4 ,begin the handkerchief from one stitch1 knit as many rows1 increasing one stitch every row at the same end1 until there are seven loops upon the pin4 ,begin the pattern thus3-- ,make a stitch1 ,slip off a stitch1 ,knit two together1 ,put the slipped stitch over the two just knitted in one4 ,again make a stitch1 ,slip off a stitch1 ,knit two stitches1 ,put the slipped stitch over as before1 ,continue thus until four stitches from the end of the row1 then make a stitch1 and knit the four remaining stitches plain4 ,knit every alternate row in turn-stitch2 ,this alternate row must have the three last stitches knit plain1 increasing it by making a stitch4 ,the handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the straight side4 ,when done1 fasten off4 ,,honeycomb-,,knit ,,shawl4 ,this is made of fine lamb's wool or yarn2 it looks very well when the centre is white1 with a shaded border of some bright colour4 ,for a small shawl1 or a large handkerchief1 the following quantity is required3-- ,three ounces of fine white lamb's wool4 ,two skeins of the darkest shade of colour4 ,two skeins of the next4 ,two skeins of the next4 ,one skein of the lightest4 ,the needles are of wood1 rather fine1 not so thick as a drawing pencil4 ,the centre is first knit1 beginning with only two loops on your needle1 to make the point fine2 knit several plain rows1 raising one loop in each row2 the raising is merely knitting first the outside and then the inside of the last loop1 and is continued in every row1 whether plain or open1 through the whole shawl4 ,when you have ten loops on your needle begin your pattern1 which is done as follows3-- ,knit four plain stitches1 bring the wool in front of the needle1 and then1 taking hold of two loops instead of one1 knit them plainly together2 continue this till within four loops of the end1 which must be knit plain4 ,always begin and end every open row with four plain stitches4 ,knit three plain rows between each figured one4 ,when you have from #bjj to #bej loops1 7which will make a good sized shawl71 begin the border1 which looks best dark at the edges1 and shaded up to light in the middle4 ,before beginning the border at the top1 it is best to knit three or four plain rows of the white wool2 and observe1 that as there is a right and a wrong side to the shawl1 the first row of the border must be continued so as to suit it1 by knitting one1 more or less1 of the plain white rows4 ,begin with your darkest shade of border1 and knit three or more rows of it1 according to taste2 then the second1 the third1 the lightest1 the third again1 second1 and darkest1 increasing one loop in every row1 both open and plain1 as before2 the last three or four rows should be plain1 to make the edge firm4 ,then fasten off4 ,begin the side border by taking up all the inside loops1 as those in the heel of a stocking are done1 and begin with the dark shade as at the top1 and in the first row only1 raise a loop every fifth stitch1 which may be easily done by taking up the little bars or loops that lie between the stitches2 go on as before1 raising one loop at the end of every row4 ,be careful to begin all the borders on the same side1 as1 in consequence of the manner of taking up the loops1 there is a difference4 ,the raising the loops at the side border is done to make it set loosely to the shawl1 as1 if it were not thus enlarged1 it would be tight and confined4 ,the corners and point of the border are neatly joined with a needle and thread4 ,a ,,tippet4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ef4 ,cut out a tippet or cape of the proper shape and size in paper1 and then divide it into five equal portions2 each portion may be considered a gore1 and by measuring by the stitches put on the pin with the pattern1 the right number may easily be ascertained4 ,these gores may be made to increase equally on both sides1 as in the ,plate1 or only on one side4 ,sometimes long ends are continued with the two front gores1 to make a sort of mantilla or pelerine4 ,neat tippets might be made with advantage for school girls at times when worsteds are cheap4 ,,for ,a ,,purse4 ,set on one pin ninety or a hundred stitches1 knit the first stitch1 put the silk over the pin1 then slip a stitch and knit a stitch2 turn the slipped stitch over the last knit one1 and so on all through the pin2 then seam the next row1 and so on till completed1 when fasten off4 ,,for ,a ,,purse ,use four pins4 ,if the silk twist be fine it requires two skeins--if coarse1 three skeins2 or1 if to be made of two colours1 half that quantity4 ,cast on your three pins eighteen loops1 if fine1 or sixteen loops1 if coarse1 and begin 7after one plain row7 to knit in raised ,french stitch 7see ,no4 #ca72 and when sufficient rounds have been completed to form fourteen holes length-wise1 knit backwards or forwards on two pins in the same stitch1 to form the opening2 after complete fourteen more holes or batterns1 join the purse again by knitting in three pins1 as before1 until fourteen more holes are done1 when bind down and fasten off4 ,,for ,a ,,purse1 ,two skeins of silk are sufficient 7generally of two colours72 use four pins1 set on four stitches on each pin2 begin to knit plain round and round1 widen one stitch each round1 until you have eighteen stitches on each pin 7measure here how much silk you have used that you may know how much to reserve for narrowing with71 then knit one stitch plain and one turned for every round1 until time to make the opening1 when put all your stitches on one needle1 knitting backwards and forwards1 taking care to preserve the stitch by knitting the back rows properly1 by turning the stitches that were before knit plain1 continue this till the one skein is used up1 when you are at the middle of your purse2 take the other skein as many rows again1 backwards and forwards1 then join the opening by putting the stitches on three needles1 as before1 and knit round and round until you have but enough silk left for the narrowing1 when begin to knit plain1 narrowing every round until reduced to four stitches1 as before1 on each pin1 when fasten off4 ,,for ,a ,,purse4 ,cast seventy-five stitches on one pin2 two skeins of silk are sufficient1 and very fine pins are best2 after knitting one plain row1 continue as follows3 knit one stitch plain1 and then knit the silk twice round the pin1 knit two stitches together in turn stitch2 again put the silk twice round the pin1 and knit two stitches together in turn stitch1 and so on to every row1 remembering that the first stitch in every row is knit plain4 ,,pretty ,,new ,,purse ,,pattern4 ,use four pins and set on each of three pins eighteen or twenty loops1 ,knit one plain round1 and then continue for another round as follows3-- ,bring the silk in front of the pin1 slip a stitch1 knit a stitch1 then turn the slipped stitch over the knit one2 ,again bring the silk in front of the pin1 slip a stitch1 knit a stitch1 and turn the slipped stitch over the knit one1 and so on to the end of the round1 ,knit the two next rounds plain1 ,and continue alternately knitting one round of the pattern1 and two rounds plain1 until the purse is finished4 ,,receipt ,,for ,a ,,zephyrine4 ,this is a very convenient thing to lie over the head instead of a bonnet1 especially in travelling1 and is generally knit of two colours4 ,it should be knit with ,berlin wool1 on two rather fine pins1 with knobs at the end4 ,set on your pin #ajj stitches1 ,knit a row plain1 ,turn1 or purl a row1 ,repeat this twice more each1 ,then change the colour1 and continue knitting and purling alternately1 three rows each1 ,again change to the first colour1 and continue knitting and purling1 three rows more each1 ,continue thus changing colour until there are five stripes of one colour1 and six stripes of the other1 when it is finished1 ,then gather the ends to a point1 bind them with ribbon1 and sew on strings to match the darkest colour4 ,a ,,zephyr4 ,this is a soft shawl to lay a baby on1 or carry it out in1 and is desirable on account of its warmth and lightness4 ,some are made square1 others of a half-handkerchief shape4 ,in either case1 set on about #acj or more stitches1 and knit in honeycomb or ,french raised stitch1 the embossed1 hexagon1 or any other simple pretty pattern preferred4 ,a border and fringe may be added1 according to taste1 and certainly gives a rich finish to it4 ,a ,,baby',s ,,cap4 ,put on eighty stitches on the three pins1 so as to have #bdj stitches2 knit twelve1 turning every alternate stitch2 in the next row turn the stitch which was plain before2 take in eighty stitches1 one at every fourth stitch1 so as to leave a full border2 then knit one row plain1 one open row1 three rows plain1 and twenty-four rows double knitting2 then knit three rows plain1 one open row1 three rows plain1 twenty-four rows double knitting1 three rows plain1 one open row1 and three rows plain4 ,cast on twenty-four stitches at each end of the first three plain1 to form the back of the cap2 then knit forty-eight rows double knitting the whole length2 then take in gradually to the size of the crown in one row1 knit three rows plain1 one open row2 again three plain2 fasten off at the top1 join up the back1 and knit three rows plain1 one open row1 and three plain4 ,the crown is made by putting on sixteen stitches1 and increasing one at each end for sixteen rows2 then knit sixteen rows2 then decrease sixteen rows1 which forms the circle4 ,a ,,baby',s ,,cap4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #eg4 ,set on one stitch on each of three pins1 and knit a circular piece of knitting in hole-stitch1 until there are #aaj stitches altogether on the three pins4 ,knit six ribs of stocking knitting1 one of holes1 and one of garter rib1 ,knit six ribs of stocking knitting1 one of holes1 and one rib of garter-stitch1 ,knit six ribs of stocking1 one of holes1 and one of garter1 ,knit six ribs of stocking1 one of holes1 one of garter1 two of stocking1 and two of garter1 ,finish off twenty-two stitches1 and divide the remainder of the stitches on two pins1 ,knit three ribs of stocking1 making holes at six stitches distance1 which serve for ribbons1 ,knit three ribs of garter-stitch1 two of stocking1 six of garter1 three of stocking1 one row of holes1 four ribs of stocking1 six ribs of garter1 three ribs of stocking1 one row of holes1 four ribs of stocking1 six ribs of garter1 and three of stocking2 after which three more of stocking1 with holes at six stitches distance1 to admit of a second ribbon4 ,for the border1 continue knitting twenty rows in huckaback stitch2 for the border behind1 take up the stitches at the ear on each side1 and knit sufficient rows in huckaback stitch till each strip is long enough to reach the middle of the back4 ,put in a ribbon behind1 and the whole is completed4 ,a ,,baby',s ,,bonnet ,,or ,,hood4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #eh4 ,for the border1 set on eighty stitches and knit in huckaback stitch1 narrow one stitch at each end of every other row1 till you have knit ten rows4 ,next1 commence the head-piece1 and knit six rows in double knitting1 the one row of holes1 eight rows of double knitting1 one of holes1 and six rows of double knitting1 then begin to knit in honeycomb-stitch1 fasten off two stitches at the end of each pin1 every row until there are but twenty-four on the pin1 then fasten off4 ,for the crown1 set on five stitches1 widen each row till you have sixteen loops1 then knit twelve rows4 ,narrow at each end for two rows1 knit fourteen rows and fasten off4 ,sew the crown to the head-piece with wool of the same quality4 ,begin the curtain by taking up all the stitches at the back1 and knitting six rows in double knitting1 widening four stitches on each pin2 then one row of holes1 widening two stitches2 then six rows of double knitting still widening1 one of holes1 widening two stitches1 and double knitting1 increasing till there are #aej stitches on the pin1 then fasten off1 and put in ribbons through the holes where wanted4 ,a ,,gentleman',s ,,night-,,cap4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ei4 ,this cap has a very pretty appearance1 something resembling old fashioned insertion-lace1 as there is an ornamented border round the head4 ,it is done with fine needles and cotton1 and knit round like a stocking4 ,the plan is as follows3-- ,cast on any number of stitches1 divisable by thirteen4 #ast ,row4 ,turn one1 knit one1 turn one1 slip one1 knit one4 ,draw the slipt loop over1 knit six plain1 bring the cotton over1 as though going to turn1 knit one1 bring your cotton to the top and knit one4 #bnd ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine4 #crd ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit five1 bring the cotton to the top and knit two4 #dth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine4 #eth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit four1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit one1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit three4 #fth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine4 #gth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit three1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit one1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit four4 #hth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine4 #ith ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit two1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit five4 #ajth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine4 #aath ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit one1 bring the cotton to the top1 knit six4 #abth ,row4 ,turn1 knit1 turn1 slip1 and draw over1 knit nine1 knit two plain rounds1 turn five rounds1 knit one round1 throwing the cotton twice over the needle2 turn one round1 repeat this until you have eighteen turned rounds4 ,knit two plain rounds1 turn five rounds1 take four needles1 and knit and turn three rounds alternately1 narrowing at each needle end1 having a turn1 knit and seam between each narrowing2 continue this until there are four loops on each needle1 which will draw round the tassel4 ,,knit ,,bags4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fj1 #fa4 ,very pretty bags may be made of fantail stitch in silk twist1 for which purpose set on as many stitches1 divisable by fourteen1 as are required for the width of the bag4 ,about four times fourteen or fifty-six stitches will be a useful size1 adding1 if preferred1 four extra stitches on each end1 and between each of the fourteen stitches1 to separate the pattern more effectually1 and make it look richer4 ,these extra stitches will amount to five times four or twenty1 making in all seventy-six stitches4 ,knit the four stitches of any pattern preferred2 supposing the open hem1 ,no4 #d1 is selected1 then knit as follows3-- ,set on seventy-six stitches1 knit four plain ribs1 and six turn-stitch rows4 ,open hem the first four stitches1 ,fantail the next fourteen stitches1 ,open hem the next four stitches1 and so on1 till the last open hemmed four stitches complete the row4 ,continue as above till a sufficient length is done for both sides of the bag1 after which1 seam it up1 and put cord and tassels to complete the whole1 lining it or not1 according to pleasure4 ,,kettle ,,holders4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fb4 ,this is knit in double knitting1 with a border of plain ribs round4 ,set thirty-two stitches on one pin1 ,knit four ribs plain1 ,knit double knitting1 letting the first four stitches and the last four stitches of every row be plain knitting4 ,when the double knit part is quite square1 add the four ribs of plain knitting1 to complete the border1 and fasten off4 ,a little loop of twisted wool is put at the top to hang it by4 ,,knit ,,mats1 ,,or ,,kettle ,,holders4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fc4 ,this is knit to resemble fringe all over1 and when well done looks very pretty4 ,use fine needles and a common kind of worsted for knitting the wool fringe1 which must be thick and soft4 ,set on any number of stitches1 and knit one plain row1 after which1 begin the next row by knitting one plain stitch1 then put the wool between the pins round the fingers1 and back again between the pins in front1 and so on1 similar to the rug stitch1 ,no4 #cc4 ,,knit ,,open ,,braid4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fd4 ,this is very simple1 and if done with cord or thick cotton or worsted1 might be very useful for sewing on1 to ornament children's dresses2 or if of silk twist1 for putting round pincushions1 curtains1 c4 ,set on one stitch1 and knit as many stitches as the longest pin will possibly hold4 ,knit two rows plain1 and then unrove one row by pulling out the pin1 and draw the wool through the last loop1 to keep it from roving still further4 ,the braid is thus formed1 and must be sewed on at each top and bottom loop4 ,,knit ,,mats4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fe4 ,set on thirty stitches or more1 according to the size required1 and knit in the two coloured chain-stitch till a square is completed1 when make a fringe1 ,no4 #a1 and sew it round4 ,when completed1 cut it and comb it out1 taking care not to pull out the bits by drawing too hard4 ,,coverlet4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #ff4 ,this is knit with cotton1 and is composed of several squares sewed together4 ,these squares are begun at one corner1 commencing with two stitches1 and increasing to fifty or more1 by widening at each end of each row4 ,it is then decreased by narrowing at each end of each row1 and fastened off when two stitches are left on the pins4 ,these squares are often ornamented1 sometimes by knitting one row turn-stitch1 seven rows plain1 backwards and forwards1 and so on1 so as to form three ribs garter1 and one rib stocking-stitch4 ,some persons ornament each square differently1 others merely sew them1 so that the rows shall run or lie in different positions4 ,a border with fringe may be put round1 for which purpose1 refer to the stitches for fringes1 c4 ,the huckaback pattern is very suitable for coverlets4 ,,blankets4 ,these are usually made for infants' cradles and invalids1 on account of their warmth and lightness2 they should be knit with very large pins and thick wool1 and in double knitting all the way1 having a border of imitation double knitting or huckaback all round1 to keep them more in place4 ,set on from #ajj to #bjj stitches1 according to the size required1 knitting about ten ribs of border1 after which the remainder is plain double knitting4 ,observe that the first and last eight or ten loops on each end of the pin be knit in the border-stitch4 ,,cotton ,,doyleys4 ,,plate #ba4 ,,fig4 #fg4 ,these are very pretty1 and may be made in various stitches4 ,the following is a particularly pretty way3-- ,set on thirty-eight stitches1 ,knit two plain ribs1 ,continue knitting two plain stitches and two turn stitches1 remembering every two ribs to knit plain stitches over turn stitches1 and turn stitches over plain1 so as to form a kind of ornamental knitting1 resembling huckaback or checks4 ,observe1 the two last1 as well as the two first stitches of every row are plain1 to continue the border2 also knit two plain ribs to correspond1 before fastening off4 ,sew in the fringe1 ,no4 #b4 ,,another ,,doyley4 ,this is similar to the one before1 excepting that it is knit in honeycomb or hole-stitch4 ,a ,,handsome ,,border ,,and ,,corners ,,for ,a ,,shawl4 ,this is a very beautiful pattern when properly done1 and would answer well for a shawl1 a baby's zephyrine1 a mat1 carpet1 counterpane1 or any other article enclosed in a square4 ,the border 7which is a kind of fantail stitch7 is ended at each corner by squares1 which gives great lightness to the whole4 ,in beginning one of these corners1 set on but two stitches on the pin to form the point2 and observe1 as you go on1 to increase one stitch at the end of every row1 until the square or diamond is knit to a sufficient width 7say thirteen rows7 when decrease every row one stitch at the end1 until the number of loops on your pin is reduced to two again1 when fasten off1 and the square is completed4 ,the stitch with which the square is knitted is formed as follows2 and the number of ribs at the side should be divisable by six and one over1 to be the proper width for the border2 thirteen is a very good number of ribs4 ,begin the square by knitting plain every row until you have thirteen stitches on your pin 7remembering to increase one stitch at the end of each row7 and then continue as below4 #ast ,row4 ,knit six stitches plain1 ,pass the cotton in front to make a stitch1 ,knit two together1 ,knit the remaining stitches plain4 ,next ,row4 ,knit plain1 ,knit six stitches plain1 ,pass the cotton in front1 to make a stitch1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,pass the cotton in front again1 to make a stitch1 ,knit two stitches together1 ,knit the remaining stitches plain4 ,next ,row4 ,knit plain4 ,continue the above1 observing that every alternate row is knit plain1 and the rows between knit in the above stitch2 always leaving six plain stitches at each end of the pin1 to make a kind of little border to the square4 ,when complete1 begin the border by picking up the stitches on one side of the square1 and then continue thus3-- #ast ,row4 ,seam a stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,seam a stitch1 ,knit two stitches1 ,pass the cotton in front to make a stitch4 ,knit a stitch4 ,repeat the same for six more stitches2 then1 ,knit one stitch4 ,next ,row4 ,knit a stitch1 ,seam a stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,knit two together1 ,seam eleven stitches1 ,knit two together4 ,next ,row4 ,seam a stitch1 ,knit one1 ,seam one1 ,knit two together1 ,knit nine plain1 ,knit three together4 ,next ,row4 ,knit a stitch1 ,seam a stitch1 ,knit a stitch1 ,knit two together1 ,seam seven stitches1 ,knit two together4 ,continue these four rows successively1 until the border is long enough to insert another corner or square1 as before4 ,,gentleman',s ,,travelling ,,caps4 ,these are remarkably pretty and comfortable1 and should be made of shaded wool or silk1 and are knit with two pins only4 ,set on an even number of stitches1 ,knit the first row plain2 ,observe to slip off the first stitch of every row throughout1 and continue as follows3-- #ast ,row4 7,after slipping the first stitch7 put the wool in front to make a stitch1 ,slip off a stitch the contrary way1 ,knit a stitch1 as before1 ,continue this until at the end of the row1 ,next ,row4 7,after1 as usual1 slipping off the #ast stitch7 knit two stitches together the whole way1 leaving one at the end to knit plain4 ,repeat this4 ,,sofa ,,foot ,,covers1 ,,or ,,warmers4 ,these are useful for the feet of an invalid1 when lying on the sofa1 and are knit as follows3-- ,set on one pin #agd stitches1 and knit one plain row1 after which knit eleven or twelve rows in any fancy stitch to form a border1 and then commence double knitting1 remembering to continue the border pattern at each side1 by knitting the first and last twelve stitches on the pin1 every row in the same fancy stitch4 ,continue this until your work is square1 when open it like a bag1 which must be done by gently taking out your pin and picking up the loops on two pins1 each pin taking up the alternate loops4 ,knit a similar border as that made at the beginning1 to each pin of stitches1 and fasten off4 ,the foot warmer1 or bag1 is then completed1 and may have a fringe sewn on all round1 to give a finish to the whole4 ,,reticule ,,bag4 ,this is knit in two colours1 say violet and green4 ,set on your pin any number of stitches divisible by six1 7about seventy-eight is a good size71 and1 after knitting one plain row1 fasten on the other colour and knit six stitches with the violet and six with the green1 alternately1 to the end of the row4 ,next row1 knit entirely turn-stitch1 still knitting six stitches1 alternately1 of the two colours1 taking care that each colour shall be knit in continuation of itself1 so as to form distinct stripes4 ,continue knitting alternate rows of plain stitch and seam-stitch1 until the work is so long1 as when doubled will form a well-proportioned reticule bag4 ,observe1 in passing the wool behind of one colour across the other1 not to pull it tight2 when completed1 fasten off2 line with buckram and flannel and violet green or gold silk2 put a cord of silk or wool all round1 with cord handles and tassels4 ,this makes a durable handsome bag1 and may be knit of even more colours or shades1 if preferred4 ,reticules knit with other stitches look very pretty1 as the herring-bone back-stitch1 ,the two coloured rib-stitch1 ,the two coloured chain-stitch4 ,or the above striped pattern may be varied by arranging the stripes in checks instead4 ,papier mache tops are now made for bags1 which look very handsome4 ,,knit ,,petticoat4 ,for delicate children1 a knit petticoat is far warmer and lighter than a flannel one1 and is knit in double knitting1 or in imitation double knitting3--for a child of four or six years of age1 set on #djj stitches and knit the proper length1 when finish with a few plain rows and fasten off4 ,sew up the seam to the proper distance behind4 ,,child',s ,,knit ,,stays4 ,as stays vary so very much in size1 according to the make of the child1 it would be difficult to form a receipt1 as they should fit well1 and the styles of knitters vary so much4 ,it is better to cut1 in paper1 the exact shape of the stay1 and then knit your stay to match it1 by constantly measuring4 ,set on sufficient stitches on your pin to form the depth of the end of the stay1 and knit several plain rows until the rise of the shoulder4 ,add a stitch at the beginning of every rib until it is sufficiently raised or hollowed1 to form the beginning of the shoulder-strap1 then begin to hollow for the arm-hole1 decreasing one stitch at the beginning of one row1 and the end of the next1 and so on1 until the hole is deep enough1 when commence increasing in the same proportion1 to form the rise inside the arm-hole4 ,the body in front should be slightly hollowed towards the middle1 and the remainder half of the body finished in the same manner1 therefore1 it is advisable to set down every widening and narrowing as you do it1 in order that the one half may exactly correspond with the other4 ,these bodies generally have tape shoulder straps1 but knit ones can easily be attached1 by picking up six stitches on the shoulder1 knitting a narrow strip4 ,they are generally straight at the bottom1 and are usually knit of cotton1 and are very elastic4 ,,silk ,,watch ,,guard4 ,set on your pin seven or nine stitches1 or even more if the silk is very fine4 ,knit in common knitting a yard and a half in length4 ,some thread their silk with beads1 either black or gold1 and introduce them in the knitting to form the initials or name of the wearer1 or to make fanciful devices2 others knit it entirely with beads of one or more colours1 introducing one bead at every stitch1 but the plain knitting is the neatest and handsomest of the three kinds1 the other two being too gay for daily wear4 ,,checked ,,napkin ,,rings4 ,choose two colours1 say green and gold1 set on your pin with the green wool twenty-four stitches and knit one plain row1 and then knit as follows3-- #ast ,row4 ,knit plain four stitches1 alternately of each colour1 to the end of the row4 #bnd ,row4 ,turn-stitch 7four stitches alternately of each colour7 to the end of the row1 observing to keep the gold colour over the gold1 and green over the green 4 #crd ,row4 ,plain knit1 as in the first row4 #dth ,row4 ,turn-stitch1 as in the second row4 ,repeat these four rows4 ,the next eight rows are knit exactly the same way1 excepting that the colours are arranged so that the green is placed over the gold1 and the gold over the green4 ,continue alternately changing the situation of the colours every eight rows1 until about one and a half nail in length is knit1 when fasten off1 line with buckram or wire1 and silk1 putting a bow at the seam where the ends are sewn together1 and it is completed4 ,some knit these in the two coloured rib and two coloured chain-stitch4 ,,sofa ,,shawl4 ,these are very expensive1 but useful for invalids1 on account of their warmth and lightness4 ,set on five or six hundred stitches and knit a square of double knitting1 or imitation double knitting1 either with or without a border1 if the latter is preferred1 the one which is explained with corners is the handsomest1 unless fringe is also required1 when one of the fringe borders may be added at once4 ,a ,,bosom ,,friend4 ,set on your pin seventy stitches1 and knit in imitation knitting for about #ajj rows1 when knit twenty-five stitches of the next row1 after which take another pin and fasten off the next twenty stitches1 then knit the last twenty-five stitches on another pin4 ,continue knitting the twenty-five stitches on one pin in the same stitch1 fastening off one stitch at every end and beginning of each row1 next to the middle1 which forms the hollowing round the neck4 ,when the stitches are reduced to four1 fasten off4 ,do the same with the other pin containing twenty-five stitches1 and fasten off4 ,sew pieces of white ribbon to the corners1 to hang it by round the neck4 ,some persons do not hollow out bosom friends1 but knit them square or oblong4 ,,braces ,,for ,,gentlemen4 ,these may be knit in wool1 cotton1 or even silk4 ,the following receipt is for cotton braces 7the wool would require fewer stitches1 and the silk more than the cotton74 ,the shape of a brace is wide in the middle1 with two narrow ends4 ,for the first narrow end1 set on twenty-four stitches1 and knit two nails in length1 in imitation of double knitting1 or in huckaback stitch4 ,widen to forty-eight stitches1 and knit a length of nine nails4 ,narrow at each end1 till reduced to thirty stitches1 when put half the loops on one pin and half on another2 continue knitting each end separately until three nails long1 when fasten off and the one brace is completed4 ,these two last ends should be knit with a button-hole in each1 which is easily done by again halving the stitches on two pins1 and knitting them separately a few rows 7say eight or twelve71 and afterwards joining them together on one pin again4 ,,the ,,spiral ,,boa1 ,,or ,,ruff4 ,set on any quantity of stitches to form an even number of threes1 say thirty-six or forty-eight1 and knit a plain row in one coloured wool4 ,fasten on the other colour1 and knit three stitches alternately with each colour4 ,next row1 turn-stitch back again1 knitting each colour over its own shade4 ,continue knitting one row plain1 and turn-stitch back again1 observing each plain row to alter the arrangement of the colours one stitch1 which gives the shades a spiral direction4 ,for a clearer explanation1 observe as follows3-- #ast ,row4 ,knit plain three grey and three scarlet stitches1 alternately to the end of the row4 #bnd ,row4 ,turn-stitch back1 keeping the colours over their own shades4 #crd ,row4 ,knit two grey stitches1 then three scarlet and three grey1 alternately1 to the end of the row1 leaving one grey at the end4 #dth ,row4 ,knit the colours over their shade in the last row in turn-stitch4 #eth ,row4 ,knit one grey stitch1 then three scarlet and three grey1 alternately1 ending with two grey at the end4 #fth ,row4 ,turn-stitch back again4 #gth ,row4 ,knit three scarlet and three grey1 alternately to the end4 #hth ,row4 ,turn-stitch back again4 #ith ,row4 ,knit two scarlet1 and three grey1 and three scarlet alternately1 leaving one scarlet at the end4 #ajth ,row4 ,turn-stitch back again4 #aath ,row4 ,knit one scarlet1 and three grey1 and three scarlet alternately1 leaving two scarlet at the end4 #abth ,row4 ,knit three grey and three scarlet1 alternately and so on4 ,observe that you keep your wool 7which is constantly passed across7 always at the wrong side of the knitting1 or that side which does not resemble the stitch of a knit stocking4 ,take care not to pull the wool tight when passing it across4 ,when a sufficient length is knit1 fasten off and sew up1 and fill with wadding or wool1 which is pushed down with a stick or long knitting pin1 and then sewn up4 ,three or more colours may be used1 but it is rather troublesome to prevent the wools from entangling1 on account of their crossing each other so frequently4 ,,swiss ,,cap4 ,this is a kind of woollen tie or frill1 to keep the head and ears warm when in an open carriage1 and is put on over the border of the bonnet cap1 and ties under the chin4 ,its length is about six nails and a half1 and the depth when double1 one nail and a half4 ,the colours generally chosen are white1 blue1 and scarlet4 ,choose two very thick wooden pins1 also some very fine lamb's wool1 and some thick sewing silk of the same colour4 ,set on about sixty stitches or more 7according to the length desired7 on one pin with silk1 and knit a plain row1 then knit another plain row with wool1 putting it three times round the needle every stitch instead of once4 ,next row1 knit exactly the same4 ,next row1 knit plain1 passing the wool but once round the pin as usual4 ,repeat the three rows twice more1 and then finish off by knitting a plain row of silk4 ,double the piece of knitting in half its depth1 so as to form a kind of frill1 and run in a ribbon along the third row of long stitches in and out through both the folds or frills1 to keep them in place1 which also serves as strings to keep the cap on the head by tying under the chin4 ,a ,,light ,,scarf4 ,set on #ajj stitches1 and knit either in one or two colours1 seven nails of raised ,french stitch1 or honeycomb-stitch1 after which1 knit a row plain1 putting the wool six times round the pin at every stitch4 ,next row1 knit plain1 taking care to keep the long stitches even4 ,knit one row of honeycomb pattern4 ,knit another plain row4 ,repeat the row of long stitches1 by again putting the wool six times round the pin4 ,again the plain row1 as also the row of honeycomb pattern1 and the other plain row4 ,continue this till the scarf is long enough to allow of your ending as you began1 with seven nails of fancy stitch4 ,a fringe should be added4 ,these scarfs are often made with the long stitches white1 and all the rest coloured1 and look very handsome4 ,,an ,,improved ,,sock4 ,use coarse lamb's wool and middle sized pins2 cast on seventeen stitches of coloured wool1 this makes the first row in reckoning4 ,at the end of the second row1 make a stitch1 which gives a better form to the heel than setting on eighteen at first4 ,at the end of the third row1 add a stitch4 ,add a stitch at the end of the fifth1 seventh1 ninth1 eleventh1 c41 until you have twenty-five loops on the pin4 ,then with a third pin knit ten stitches only4 ,continue knitting backwards and forwards the ten stitches only1 until you have knit twenty rows4#c ,at the end of the twenty-first row1 make fifteen stitches1 so as to have twenty-five stitches again on the pin1 and to make it correspond with the other side4 ,finish this side of the shoe with as many rows as you knit on the opposite side1 decreasing every other row by knitting the two first stitches together at the toe1 until there are but seventeen left on the pin1 and fasten off4 ,all this has been knit of red wool4 ,then continue with the white wool for twenty-four rows1 which will complete the sock1 adding at the end of the two first sixth and seventh rows1 one to enlarge the boot4 ,sew up the shoe to the sock at the instep1 and draw up the toe and sew it round the heel and up the leg4 ,a bow may be added1 if required1 also leather soles4 #c ,at the end of this twenty rows1 take up ten stitches1 and with white wool knit fourteen rows4 ,then take on to this middle pin1 which has the white even upon it1 nine stitches from each side 7namely1 from the top of the heel7 of the red shoe1 and knit two rows with coloured wool for the strap4 ,,flower ,,stand ,,covers4 ,take a tin can or jar1 of the proper size for the flowers to be placed in1 and make the knit cover as follows3-- ,choose two middle sized steel pins1 and rather fine wool of two colours1 and begin as follows3-- ,set on as many stitches as will measure to the depth of the flower stand1 and knit six rows of one colour1 letting the alternate rows be plain1 and turn-stitch so as to make one side appear like knit stockings on the right side4 ,the next six rows knit of the other colour1 and altering the alternate rows of plain and turn-stitch1 so as to throw the stocking-stitch inside4 ,continue thus ribbing the piece of work until you have knit sufficient to go round the base1 when fasten off and sew up4 ,add a fringe at the top1 and a circular piece of wire inside1 both at top and bottom1 is sometimes put to keep it in shape2 though the jar generally is sufficient in itself when put inside4 ,a leather or cloth bottom may be added4 ,,knit ,,pen ,,wiper4 ,set on your pin thirty stitches of black wool1 and knit eight rows backwards and forwards for the border4 ,the middle part is next begun in the embossed hexagon-stitch of red1 or any other colour1 still observing to continue the border1 by knitting four plain stitches at the beginning and ending of each pin of the black wool4 ,end by knitting the eight plain rows of black wool as before1 to complete the first enclosed square of the pen wiper1 do not fasten off1 but begin knitting another piece exactly to match the first1 which when finished completes the pen wiper4 ,double it like a book and sew a bit of ribbon down the inside1 under which may be passed bits of silk or rag to wipe the pens upon4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,straw ,,platting4 ,,general ,,observations4 ,the precise period when the ,dunstable bonnets1 made of straw plat1 were invented1 is unknown1 but is supposed to be probably a century and a half old4 ,the straw platting districts now1 include ,bedfordshire1 ,buckinghamshire1 ,hertfordshire1 and ,essex4 ,in many other counties the platting is partially followed1 and it may be well adopted in other districts for the supply of the neighbourhood4 ,there are markets for the sale of the large bundles of long straw1 both rough and properly stripped2 also the short straws1 the straw plats1 and the bonnets throughout the straw plat districts4 ,the best bonnet market is at ,st4 ,alban's1 but there are others at ,luton1 ,dunstable1 and ,braintree4 ,these markets are held only in the morning1 from about eight to ten o'clock1 when the plat buyers always attend4 ,experiments on the different straws of corn and grass1 and on the precise times when they should be cut1 whether before or at the time when the grass and corn are ripe1 might lead to some discoveries which would add to the durability and beauty of the bonnets4 ,there are few manufactories in the kingdom in which so little capital is wanted1 or the knowledge of the art so soon acquired as in that of straw platting2 it is1 therefore1 particularly suitable for school children1 from six years old and upwards1 as also for the sons of cottagers to employ their spare moments4 ,the expense of a perfect apparatus for bleaching1 rolling1 pressing upon1 c41 amounts to about three guineas1 which will employ any number of persons from one to one hundred2 but1 by contriving with materials at hand1 a guinea alone would almost provide those articles not to be procured at home4 ,the following are the articles required for platting1 and making up the plats into articles for sale3-- 4 s4 d4 ,box for bleaching the straw and bonnets #j #ah #j ,mill for rolling and glazing the plat #j #ah #j ,bonnet stand for ironing and shaping the bonnet upon #j #aa #j ,box iron with two or three heaters #j #d #f ,tin kettle for dyeing #j #e #j ,tailor's measure #j #j #f ,earthenware jar for the brimstone #j #j #d ,cloths for ironing #j #j #f ,large iron basin tinned #j #a #f ,straw splitting machines1 two at #d;d4 #j #j #i ,stone brimstone1 bone-dust1 needles1 c41 about #j #c #j 4 #c #c #j ,,the ,,bleaching1 ,,or ,,fumigation ,,box4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ej4 ,if required to be large enough to hold several bonnets1 two stories high and two rows in width1 it should be made about three feet long1 two feet wide1 and two feet deep4 ,the earthen jar is put in the middle of it1 in which the brimstone is put and set fire to when articles are to be bleached1 as there is danger of some of the straw falling into the jar and catching fire2 it is advisable to have four stout legs or wires about a foot high1 fastened round the jar in the centre of the box1 and1 by carrying a wire round from peg to peg at the top1 and the second a little lower1 a kind of double railing would be formed round the jar as a protection to the straw 7see ,fig4 #ej74 ,the box should be made to shut down very close1 for which purpose the lid should have a ledge to fall over the sides of the box1 something similar to the lid of a band-box4 ,,mill ,,for ,,rolling ,,the ,,plat4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #di4 ,this is difficult to procure well made1 and is essential to give the gloss and finish to the straw plat4 ,it should be made of the strongest oak or box-wood1 and of the following size1 or larger3-- ,inches ,the upright sides1 from ,a to ,b #ae ,ditto sloped down to 7as from ,c to ,d7 #ac ,width of these sides1 from ,e to ,f #a ,depth1 or thickness1 from ,f to ,g #c ,the two bars of wood1 ,h and ,t1 in width and depth1 to be #c ,distance between ,h and ,t #aa ,circumference of each wheel1 ,k ,l #g ,length of screw1 not including handle #d ,length of handle #c ,depth of bar across1 ,r ,length of handle1 ,l #c ,height of upright1 ,m #e ,length of upper handle1 ,o #e ,the use of the screw is to press the upper wheel nearer upon the lower one1 if wanted1 as the thickness of the various plats vary materially1 and what will press one kind1 will not be close enough to do another properly4 ,the plat being put in at one end1 is worked through between the wheel1 till the whole is drawn through4 ,the wheels should always be as near together as will just admit the straw without spoiling1 as the greater the pressure the finer the gloss4 ,it is a question whether glass rollers would not produce a still higher finish4 ,the holes are made entirely through the wood at the end1 ,a ,b1 to admit of screws1 by which the whole mill is fastened to the side of some chest1 or press1 or door4 ,care should be taken to place it at the proper height from the floor1 for convenience4 ,from three feet and a half to four feet and a half is about the best distance4 ,it should also be placed in a situation where the handle may have free play when turned4 ,,the ,,bonnet ,,stand4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #dh4 ,this is made of strong deal or oak1 and is formed at one end smaller and differently to the other4 ,the one end is circular1 and so formed as to fit into the crown of a bonnet or hat2 the other end is shaped like the poke1 or front4 ,this wood is mounted on a kind of stand1 at a convenient height1 and is used for ironing the bonnets upon1 after being wet with the stiffening4 ,,box ,,iron4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #eb4 ,this is made much in the usual way1 excepting that it should be particularly heavy1 and have a large handle to enable the person1 while ironing1 to have a firm grasp4 ,,the ,,tin ,,dyeing ,,kettle4 ,this should be made as long as the longest bundle of straw1 as also deep and narrow4 ,to have a lid to fit tightly on1 and a long handle to carry it about with greater ease4 ,the following dimensions are very suitable3-- ,inches ,length #ag ,width #e ,depth #f ,the earthenware jar should be like a little painter's pot4 ,the tailors' measure is used for measuring round a person's head1 to work the crown of the bonnet by4 ,the ironing cloth is merely to lay between the iron and the bonnet2 it might be of calico1 or any other common material4 ,,the ,,straw ,,splitter4 ,this is a useful little machine1 for dividing or splitting the straws1 and may be procured with almost any number of wires or divisions1 from two up to seven or eight4 ,the machine1 which is nothing but crossed wires or divisions in iron1 is set into a wooden handle1 through which the straw is pressed1 and thus divided into an equal number of splints or split straws4 ,these machines cost from #b;d4 to #h;d4 each4 ,,on ,,preparing ,,straw4 ,in selecting the straw1 great care should be taken as to the sort and the colour4 ,rye straw is considered the best for platting1 but is more difficult to get than wheat1 which is preferable to any other sort of common straw4 ,as it should be picked carefully1 it is advisable to go to the barn itself1 or to send some experienced person thither1 previous to the straw being thrashed4 ,soft good coloured straws should be chosen1 as free from blight and spots as possible4 ,the ears should be cut off with scissors 7not pulled off71 and then the straw is tied in bundles and removed4 ,it is then prepared as follows3-- ,cut off at the joint and pull off the outer or loose covering1 which process is called shocking4 ,each straw will generally cut into three lengths of different thicknesses and sizes4 ,these lengths should be carefully sorted into bundles1 taking care to put together not only those of the same thickness1 but those also of the same length4 ,,on ,,bleaching ,,straw4 ,take six quarts of water1 and make a strong lather of soap2 put in half an ounce of pearl ash1 and half an ounce of sugar of lead1 and make it quite hot4 ,wash the straws well in it1 7keeping it still tied up in little bundles7 after which1 place the bundles in the fumigating box1 which should be air tight1 and shut it down close1 after having previously lighted the stone brimstone1 which should be broken into small pieces in the jar4 ,observe carefully1 when setting the bundles round the box1 that they stand firmly1 so as not to fall upon the lighted brimstone and catch fire4 ,these bundles should not be tied very tightly1 but sufficiently loose to stand out a little1 as in ,fig4 #ea1 ,plate #bd1 to allow of the steam gaining free access to them4 ,they should remain shut up for twelve or eighteen hours1 after which1 the bundles should be opened one at a time1 cleaned with a cloth1 and then tied up again1 ready for platting4 ,,on ,,dyeing ,,straw ,,black4 ,one pound of logwood chips1 ,four quarts of water1 ,a piece of copperas the size of a walnut1 ,one pennyworth of verdigris4 ,let the logwood remain in the water three hours1 then boil it half an hour over a slow fire1 put in the articles1 whether straw1 silk1 or any thing else1 let it boil half an hour1 then take out the chips1 and the straw1 add the copperas and the verdigris1 previously dissolved over a slow fire1 then put in the straw again1 boil it half an hour1 let it stand to cool three hours1 wash the straw in cold water1 and dry it in the air1 without putting it in the sun4 ,to stiffen it1 steep gum arabic in small beer1 wet the straw with it1 and dry it as before4 ,,another ,,black ,,dye4 ,three quarts of water1 ,three quarts of urine1 ,three quarters of a pound of logwood1 ,half a pound of alum1 ,quarter of a pound of copperas1 ,three or four nut galls4 ,boil the water1 urine1 logwood1 alum1 and nut galls together a quarter of an hour1 then add the copperas and boil the whole half an hour1 afterwards put in the straw1 and let it boil six hours4 ,let the straw remain in the dye till quite cold1 then take it out1 spread it on a tray or board to dry in the air1 turn it every day for a fortnight1 then rub each straw with an old linen duster1 tie the straw in bundles1 and keep it in a damp place4 ,it should be used up quickly1 or else it will decay1 without being stiffened4 ,,directions ,,for ,,platting4 ,each platter should have a separate bundle of straws1 and great care taken that the straws in the bundle are exactly alike1 unblemished1 and equal in quality1 as no good platter would work a tough straw with a pliant one4 ,these bundles should have a piece of paper or calico round them to keep them clean1 and they are generally kept by school children under the arm to prevent their being mixed with a fellow platter's straws4 ,observe as follows3-- #ast4 ,platters should use the second finger and thumb1 instead of the forefinger1 as this last is very useful in assisting to turn the splints1 and thus facilitates the work4 #bnd4 ,the straws while being platted should be held with the long ends turned up above the hand1 and not below towards the waist2 this arrangement keeps the straws cleaner and they are less liable to be bent or broken4 #crd4 ,the straws should be renewed before used too near the end1 as the joining is more firm2 also avoid if possible1 renewing two straws at the same time as the plat will be weakened4 #dth4 ,avoid wetting the straws unless absolutely necessary while platting1 as water tends much to diminish the glossy appearance afterwards4 ,in working double splints1 there should be just sufficient moisture to make them stick together while being worked4 #eth4 ,each platter should have a piece of board1 about a quarter or half a yard long1 and three or four inches wide1 on which should be wound the plat worked1 taking care to cut off the ends of the straw as the plat is worked along1 previous to winding it on the roller1 to keep it in nice order4 ,these boards should be rounded at the sides1 to keep the plat from cracking4 ,some use rollers1 and this last is perhaps the better plan4 ,the circumference of the rollers should be of some settled size1 say half a yard1 so as to enable the platter easily to ascertain by counting the turns of the plat wound round it1 how many yards have been completed4 #fth4 ,when the number of yards required are finished1 the plat is passed through a roller1 as often as is necessary1 till well flattened and glazed1 when it is folded like a coil of ropes in an oblong shape1 ready for making up4 ,the coils should be kept perfectly dry and free from dust1 until a sufficient number is made for use4 ,,plats4 ,there are numerous kinds of plats of which the names vary so much in the different countries that it is needless to call them by their names1 excepting those universally known by one term2 they will therefore be simply distinguished by the number of straws employed in making them4 ,plats are sometimes made with whole straws2 sometimes with half straws2 sometimes with a third or fourth or even seventh parts of straws1 according to the quality required4 ,another plat is made with double straws2 that is laying two splints or part of a straw together with the polished parts outside4 ,plats of whole coarse straws are applicable to mats1 basket1 matting1 c4 ,plats with finer whole straws2 are used for school children1 servant's1 or ladies' country bonnets1 and are commonly called ,dunstable4 ,the split single1 or split double1 are made of every quality and number1 and vary in price1 according to the labour4 ,some bonnets are made of paper1 of grass1 of ,tuscan plat1 and even of rushes2 also of whalebone1 of chip1 c4 ,plats made of coloured straw may be platted in various patterns1 by varying the number or position of the one colour with the other4 ,the following names of plats1 together with their prices per score1 are those in general use4 s4 d4 ,whole ,dunstable #j #f ,fine whole ,dunstable #b #c ,patent ,dunstable #b #f ,luton ,dunstable #a #d ,devonshire plat of seven or eight #j #j ,bedford ,leghorn #d #j ---------------------------------------- ----------------- #a #b ,mixture plats to #b #j ---------------------------------------- ----------------- ,tuscan ends #c #j ,rustic plats #j #f ,fine seven plats #j #j ,back-bone straw #j #j ,double seven #j #j ,the eleven straw #j #j ,the double eleven #j #j ,the lustre1 or shining1 of seventeen straws #j #j ,the wave of twenty-two 7the straws appear as if worked one way7 #j #j ,the diamond of twenty-three straws #j #j ,,plat ,,of ,,three4 ,double one straw in two1 letting the ends be unequal4 ,lay a second straw upright1 between the two ends of the first2 thus forming three ends1 which must be held with the points upright1 between the finger and thumb of the left hand4 ,put the right hand straw over the middle straw1 flatten it with the finger and thumb4 ,put the left hand straw over the middle1 also flatten it4 ,continue thus all the way along1 remembering when joining on a new straw1 to let the ends all lie on the outer side4 ,observe1 in platting1 that the straw be always entirely folded over1 as you would in platting paper1 and the edges kept even4 ,this may be platted with whole straws1 or split ones4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,three4 ,this is done with very fine split straws1 and is similarly platted with the one above1 excepting that the straw is not flattened on folding in the patterns1 but simply a little twisted1 so as to keep the polished edge uppermost4 ,this is called pearl plat1 and is used by bonnet makers to form ornamental bonnets4 ,,plat ,,of ,,four4 ,double two straws1 so that all the ends shall be of unequal lengths1 and plat as follows3-- ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 under one2 ,again1 the right hand straw over one1 and under one1 and so on4 ,,angular ,,plat ,,of ,,four4 ,this is sometimes called the corner plat1 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,again1 put the right hand straw1 over two1 and under the last straw1 making it the left hand1 or outside straw4 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under one4 ,again1 put the left hand straw1 over two1 and under the last straw1 making it the right hand straw4 ,,plat ,,of ,,five4 ,double two straws1 so that the ends shall be of unequal lengths1 and add a fifth straw between the left hand1 first and second4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,repeat this all along4 ,,plat ,,of ,,six4 ,double three straws unequally1 and begin4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under one4 ,,plat ,,of ,,six4 ,double three straws unequally1 making six ends to plat with2 ,put the right hand first straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under one2 ,repeat this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,seven4 ,double your straws2 ,put the right hand first straw1 over one1 under one1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over one4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,seven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under two2 ,repeat this all along4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,seven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over one4 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over one4 ,repeat this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,eight4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over two1 and under two2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,eight4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under three2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 and under two2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,eight4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 under one1 and over two2 ,repeat this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,nine4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,nine4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 and under one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,nine4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 and over two2 ,repeat this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,ten4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,ten4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 and under two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 and under one2 ,repeat this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,eleven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,eleven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over three1 under three2 ,put the left hand straw1 over three1 and under one2 ,continue thus all along4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,eleven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over two1 under two1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over two1 and under one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,eleven4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two2 ,continue this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,twelve4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 over two1 and under one2 ,continue this4 ,,plat ,,of ,,thirteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 and under two1 over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 over two1 and under one4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,thirteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over three1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over three1 and under one2 ,repeat this4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,thirteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one4 ,repeat the same4 ,,plat ,,of ,,fourteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 over two1 under two1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two4 ,,plat ,,of ,,fifteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under two1 and over two4 ,,another ,,plat ,,of ,,fifteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 over one1 under one1 and over one4 ,,plat ,,of ,,sixteen4 ,put the right hand straw1 over one1 under three1 over three1 and under one2 ,put the left hand straw1 over two1 under three1 and over three2 ,continue this4 ,,hollow ,,spiral ,,straw ,,work4 ,this is used for ornamented bonnets1 and when made with a great many straws forms a basket1 into which may be put fruit1 and other small light things4 ,take any number of uneven straws1 from five upwards1 to fifteen or twenty-one4 ,if five are taken1 tie them securely together in a knot1 and spread out the straws1 laying a pencil or other round thing upright upon the knot1 and begin working1 making each straw as it is folded over1 lie across in a horizontal position4 ,lay one straw1 across over two straws1 ,miss the next straw1 ,lay the next again across over two straws1 ,again miss the next straw1 ,repeat this continually until sufficient is made1 and fasten off4 ,,the ,,tuscan ,,hat1 ,,commonly ,,called ,,leghorn ,,bonnets4 ,the manufacture of straw bonnets is a considerable employment in ,tuscany4 ,the platting is chiefly carried on in the neighbourhood of ,florence1 ,pisa1 and ,sienna4 ,the straws used in working those flats1 which is the term for large flat circular plats1 is grown in barren and mountainous districts1 and is produced from a kind of wheat1 said to be like cape wheat1 of which the grain is very small4 ,this straw1 though slender1 has much consistency1 and the upper part of the stalk being hollow is easily dried4 ,it is pulled out of the earth before the grain begins to form4 ,after being freed from the soil that adheres to the root1 it is formed into small sheaves for winnowing4 ,the part above the last joint of the stem is then plucked off1 the ear remaining attached to it1 this being done1 it is bleached alternately by the dew and the sun-shine2 rain is very injurious and destroys much of its proper colour4 ,the lower parts of the straw are treated in the same manner1 and employed in forming flats of an inferior quality4 ,the upper parts1 torn off just to the knot1 are sorted according to their degrees of fineness4 ,this stapling is made with much care1 and usually affords straw of three different prices4 ,a quantity of straw worthbut #d d4 will1 after undergoing this process1 be sold for #ds4 #g;d4 ,the tress is formed sometimes of seven or nine straws1 but generally of thirteen4 ,for the latter number1 tie them together at one end2 then divide them1 placing six straws on the left side1 and seven on the right4 ,the seventh or outermost on the right1 is to be turned down by the finger and thumb of the right hand1 and brought up under two straws1 over two1 and under two1 thus seven straws will be placed on the left hand2 then the finger and thumb of the left hand is to turn the seventh or outermost straw on the left side1 and bring it up under two straws1 over two1 and under two1 and seven straws will again be on the right hand1 and so on alternately doubling and platting the outermost seventh straw from side to side until it becomes too short to cross over2 then take another straw and put it under the short end at the point of the angle1 and by another straw coming over and under the joined one from both sides of the angle1 in the operation of platting1 it will become fastened2 the short ends always being left out underneath the plat4 ,continue until a piece of about twenty yards or more1 is completed4 ,as fast as it is worked1 it is rolled on a cylinder of wood3 when it is finished1 the projecting ends and ears are cut off1 it is then passed with force between the hand and a piece of wood1 cut with a sharp edge to press and polish it4 ,the tresses1 when prepared1 are used so that a complete hat shall be made of one piece2 they are sewed together with raw silk2 the diameter the of various kinds of hat is in general the same2 the only difference being in the degree of fineness1 and consequently the number of turns which the plat has to make1 varies4 ,these hats have from twenty to eighty such turns1 the number regulating the price from #is4 to #bj4 ,the ,tuscan plat1 made from ,italian straw1 and ,tuscan bonnets1 have since become a considerable manufacture in this country4 ,,english ,,imitation ,,leghorn ,,flat4 ,a kind of grass has been discovered in ,america1 ,england1 and in ,ireland1 which1 upon repeated trials1 has been found to answer as well1 and is broke equally fine as the ,tuscan straw4 ,it is called the crested dog's tail1 and grows on barren poor soils4 ,its flower stalks are so remarkably harsh and tough that cattle will not touch them1 and they remain all the winter in the fields useless4 ,they are called1 in ,irish1 trawnyeens2 hence the ,irish saying1 8,when a thing is useless1 it is not worth a trawnyeen40 ,this has been dried and platted1 and made up by the ,irish1 and it said likely to become a productive manufacture4 ,,articles ,,made ,,up ,,of ,,straw ,,plat4 ,bonnets of all descriptions and sizes4 ,boy's straw hats4 ,boy's straw caps4 ,baskets and reticules4 ,mats4 ,basses4 ,matting4 ,,bonnets4 ,in making these up1 begin by preparing the plat for the crown by pulling out the edge1 as the outer circle must be larger than the inner one4 ,sew the plat1 making long stitches on the wrong side1 and laying one plat about half or more under the preceding one4 ,no good directions for bonnet-making can be given in writing1 it is therefore recommended to the inexperienced to take a lesson from a bonnet maker1 or to pick an old one to pieces1 as a kind of guide4 ,when made up to shape or pattern1 the bonnet1 if it requires it1 is bleached in the sulphur-box1 after which1 when quite dry1 it is sponged all over1 inside and outside1 with the stiffening prepared according to the receipt mentioned below2 when dry1 another wash of stiffening is put on1 and then1 when quite dry1 spread a wet piece of jaconet muslin over the bonnet1 and press it with the box iron upon the bonnet block until it is quite in proper shape4 ,this pressing is very hard work1 and requires much strength and weight4 ,the bonnet is then wired and papered4 ,,receipts ,,for ,,stiffening4 ,the best stiffening is that made of buffalo's hide or vellum1 which may be procured in ,london and ,liverpool1 cut in shreds1 and sold at #h;d4 a pound4 ,others use bone-dust1 ivory shavings1 also isinglass for best1 and white glue for common bonnets4 ,,vellum ,,stiffening4 ,boil a quarter of a pound of vellum shavings in two quarts of soft water for six or seven hours1 filling it up occasionally until quite glutinous1 then let it stand a few minutes to settle1 pour it out into a basin1 and it will become a thick jelly4 ,a second two quarts of water may be added to the sediment left in the pot1 and after a second boiling1 will form a second quantity of almost as strong a jelly4 ,when used1 melt up a quart of the jelly1 and add a sufficient quantity of oxalic acid to make it white in the degree desired1 a table spoonful to a quart is a very good average measure for good bonnets1 more is required for the very best1 and less for servants and school girls1 c4 ,this acid1 if too strong1 turns the straws a pink colour4 ,observe1 that oxalic acid is a most dangerous poison1 and should be kept locked up in a safe place4 ,,bone-,,dust ,,stiffening4 ,put half a pint of bone-dust to half a pint of water1 and boil it eight hours2 then strain it through a thick earn strainer into a basin1 let it stand about five minutes1 and pour it very carefully into another vessel1 as there will be a sediment at the bottom4 ,put the stiffening on the straw articles with a clean brush1 making them quite wet4 ,hold the bonnets before the fire a few minutes1 pulling them into shape1 and afterwards hang them to dry for six hours1 then with a sponge damp them with warm water1 and spread over them a fine cloth or handkerchief1 and press them well with a box iron4 ,take off the cloth1 gloss the bonnets1 then wire and paper the crown4 ,n4,b4 ,the white bonnets should have a little sugar of lead put in the stiffening1 and they should be steamed in the brimstone a second time1 after being made up1 previous to being stiffened4 ,,on ,,cleaning ,,bonnets4 ,take out the wires1 and wash the bonnet with common brown soap and water4 ,bleach them with stone brimstone2 a bit the size of a walnut is sufficient for twelve bonnets1 dry1 and mend them2 if required1 stiffen them according to the receipt and press them4 ,,on ,,turning ,,bonnets4 ,the bonnet is picked to pieces1 and the plat turned1 so that which was inside is then outwards1 the bonnet should be cleaned well before being unpicked4 ,,hats4 ,men's and boy's hats are easily made of straw1 and the brims may be narrow or broad1 at pleasure2 baby's straw hats are generally looped up with a plat loop4 ,boy's caps may be made of straw also1 and are very serviceable4 ,,mats4 ,these are made of plats also1 and may be made round or oblong for the table1 as also for door mats4 ,the latter requires a very wide plat4 ,very pretty mats may be made of fine straws or rushes1 about twenty taken in the hand at once1 and connected together in a similar manner as the straw work of a bee-hive1 either with very fine split osiers1 which are passed through the straws easily when a hole is bored through with a kind of packing needle threaded with twine2 braid answers very well indeed4 ,the stitches should be very regular1 and if for a circle or oval1 observe to let the stitches radiate from the centre4 ,baskets look very pretty when made in this way1 also church basses1 which also are made of straw plats1 and sewed over sackcloth after it is made to the shape of a cushion1 and properly filled with bits of straw1 bran1 or flock1 c4 ,,bobbin ,,making4 ,,plate #bd4 ,,fig4 #ec1 #ed1 #ee4 ,this is done on a cushion1 and with bobbin handles similar to those used by lace makers2 ,fig4 #ed1 a cushion stuffed with wool is firmer than one of feathers1 it is rather heavier1 but that is not an objection4 ,the cost of the bobbin handles is four-pence each1 and there are nine required4 ,it is preferable to have the handles made with two necks1 any turner accustomed to make lace bobbins will know what is meant4 ,the best cotton for use is knitting cotton1 and for very broad bobbin1 a double thread of middling fineness is preferable to a single coarse one4 ,it is done as follows3-- ,let the nine threads be tied together1 and fastened upon the top of the cushion with a stout pin2 ,fig4 #ec1 then separate them so that five fall on one side1 and four on the other4 ,fig4 #ee4 ,the object is to pass ,no4 #i over ,nos4 #g and #h1 and under ,nos4 #e and #f2 therefore1 take up the two latter bobbins in the right hand1 ,no4 #e between the thumb and first finger1 and ,no4 #f between the first and second fingers2 the thumb and first finger may1 notwithstanding1 grasp ,no4 #i1 and throw it over ,nos4 #g and #h to the left hand side of the cushion1 next to ,no4 #d4 ,lay ,nos4 #e and #f in the places from which they were raised1 and perform the same process described with the left hand1 taking up ,nos4 #i and #d1 and passing ,no4 #a across to the right hand4 ,the bobbin1 as it is made1 may be wound several times round a card at the top of the cushion1 and then passed under a large pin4 ,fasten on a single thread1 by tying the two ends together1 and looping it round a pin stuck just above where you are at work1 it is thus perfectly strong1 and a knot does not occur in the bobbin4 ,the outer thread to the left hand1 over two1 and under two2 the same with the right hand4 ,,index4 ,page ,,angular ,,stitch1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,aprons1 #gf ---- ,clear ,muslin1 #gg ---- ,common for ,ladies1 #gh ---- ,working1 ib4 ---- ,cooking1 #gi ---- ,dress1 #gf ---- ,evening1 #gh ---- ,frilled1 #gg ---- ,gentleman's ,working1 #gi ---- ,grocers'1 ib4 ---- ,hollowed at the bottom1 #gg ---- ,muslin1 ib4 ---- ,nursery1 #ag ---- ,pantry1 #gi1 #agi ---- ,silk1 #gg ---- ,pockets1 #gh ---- with ,bibs1 ib4 ---- with ,shoulder-straps1 #gi ,,articles ,,used ,,in ,,the ,,laundry1 see ,washing ,,articles ,,used ,,in ,,the ,,wash-,,house1 see ,washing ,,baby ,,linen1 #af ---- ---- ,general ,observations on1 #ag ---- ---- ,articles necessary for ,wardrobe1 #af ---- ---- ---- for lending the ,poor1 #ag ---- ---- ,band1 #bh ---- ---- ,basket for ,nursery1 #dd ---- ---- ,bassinette ,cover1 #da ---- ---- ,bib1 #ch ---- ,bodies1 full1 for ,robes1 #cc ---- ---- ,plain1 #cd ---- ---- ,fancy1 ib4 ---- ,bottle1 ,leather suck of1 #de ---- ,caps1 material for1 #ag ---- ---- ,day1 #bj ---- ---- ,flannel1 #ai ---- ---- ,foundling1 #ah ---- ---- ,full ,french1 #ba ---- ---- ,french1 ib4 ---- ---- ,horse-shoe1 ib4 ---- with ,runners1 #ai ---- ,cloak1 ,flannel1 #ch1 ---- ---- ,silk or ,merino1 #ch ---- ,cockades1 #bb ---- ,cot1 ,hanging1 #dc ---- ---- ,travelling1 ib4 ---- ,cradle and ,cover1 #db ---- ,crib and ,cover1 ib4 ---- ,crib1 or ,cradle ,furniture1 #dd ---- ,chair for ,day1 #de ---- ---- for ,travelling1 ,night1 #df ---- ,frocks and ,robes1 #cb ---- ,gowns1 ,first ,flannel1 #be ---- ---- ,another1 #bf ---- ---- for the ,poor1 ib4 ---- ---- ,second size ,night-,flannel1 #bg ---- ---- ,first size ,day ,flannel1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 #bh ---- ---- ,first ,calico ,night ,gown1 #bi ---- ---- ,another1 #cj ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,hood1 for ,boy or ,girl1 #dj ---- ,napkins1 #bi ---- ---- ,another sort1 ib4 ---- ,pelisse1 #ch ---- ---- ,long1 #ci ---- ---- ,summer1 #dj ---- ,petticoats1 #cb ---- ,pilcher1 #bh ---- ,pincushion1 #de ---- ,pinafores1 #cj ---- ---- with ,lappets1 #ca ---- ---- ,waste ,not1 ib4 ---- ---- ,tidy1 or ,dress1 ib4 ---- ,receiver1 #cg ---- ,robes1 #cb ---- ,rosettes1 #bb ---- ,savers1 #bh ---- ,shawl1 #cg ---- ,shirts1 ,first ,open1 #bb ---- ---- ,close1 or ,second1 #bc ---- ,sleeves1 the ,round1 #ce ---- ---- the ,common1 ib4 ---- ---- the ,triangular1 #cf ---- ----1 ,long1 #cg ---- ,skirts1 #cc ,,badge1 ,clergyman's1 #adi ---- ,school ,girl's1 #bad ,,bands1 ,clergyman's1 #aej ---- ,infant's1 #bh ,,bags1 ,boot1 #baj ---- ,brush and ,comb1 #bji ---- ,clothes ---- ,family1 #a ---- ,night ,gown1 #bjh ---- ,nursery1 #baj ---- ,rag1 #ae ---- ,travelling1 #bad ---- ,work1 #bac ,,baskets1 lending out for the ,poor1 #ag ---- ,nursery1 #dd ---- ,work1 how to line1 #bad ---- ---- for ,servants1 #ae ,,bathing ,,gown1 #fa ---- ,cap1 #fh ,,beds1 see ,upholstery ,,belts1 ,men's1 #hc ---- ,hunter's1 ib4 ---- ,coachmen's1 ib4 ,,biassing1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,binding1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,blankets1 see ,upholstery ,,bleaching ,,liquid1 see ,receipts ,,bleach ,linen1 ,wool1 c41 see ,receipts ,,blinds1 see ,upholstery ,,blue ,,checks1 #ab ,,boa1 fur1 #agf ,,bobbin1 making1 #bij ,,bolsters1 making1 see ,upholstery ,,book ,cases1 #baa ---- ,covers1 #baa ,,bombazine1 to clean1 see ,receipts ,,bonnets1 ,children's1 #aej ---- ---- soft1 for young1 ib4 ---- ---- drawn up1 #aea ---- ---- soft1 for two years old1 #aea ---- ---- soft1 for three years old1 #aeb ---- ---- soft1 for four or five years old1 #aec ---- ---- soft1 for eight years old1 #aea ---- ---- soft1 another sort1 #aec ---- ,women's1 #aeh ---- ---- ,another shape1 #aei ---- ,member of the ,society of ,friends1 #afj ---- ,for a ,servant1 ib4 ---- ,school ,girls1 #afa ,,box ,clothes1 see ,house ,linen ---- ,tin1 #ae ---- ,work1 #ae ---- ,carriage1 #af ,,braiding1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,brass ,ornaments1 to preserve1 see ,receipts ,,breakfast ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,bridal ,,favours1 #agj ,,broad ,,hems1 rules for cutting out1 #ad ,,bugs1 to destroy and prevent1 see ,receipts ,,bustles1 #hc ,,button ,holes1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,buttons1 to make1 #e ---- ,how to keep1 #a ,,calico1 on choosing1 see ,purchasing ,goods ,,calico ,,furniture1 to clean1 see ,receipts ,,cal,,che1 or ,woman's large ,hood1 #afb ,,cambric1 on choosing1 see ,purchasing ,goods ,,candlestick ,case1 #bab ,,caps for ,infants1 see ,baby ,linen ---- for ,boys1 #aec ---- ,soft and ,light1 #aed ---- ---- ,porringer1 ,cloth1 ib4 ---- ---- for a ,young ,child1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- for an ,infant ,boy1 ib4 ---- for a ,boy of six years old1 #aee ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- for a ,boy of seven or eight1 #aef ---- for an older ,boy1 ib4 ---- ,boy's neat1 #aeg ---- ,gentleman's ,travelling1 #aef ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- for a ,lady or ,gentleman1 #aeg ---- ,lady's ,riding1 ib4 ---- ,workman's ,paper1 ib4 ,,caps of ,muslin1 or ,thick ,material1 #fa ---- ,woman's1 ,day or ,night1 #fb ---- ---- very neat ,night1 ib4 ---- ,young ,servant's ,day1 #fc ---- ,very neat shape1 #fd ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,school ,girl's1 #fe ---- ,favourite ,lady's ,night1 ib4 ---- ,neat ,day or ,night1 #ff ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,an ,old ,woman's1 ib4 ---- ,a ,poor ,woman's ,night1 #fg ---- ,a ,neat ,old ,fashioned1 ib4 ---- ,bathing1 #fh ,,caps of a thin material1 as ,net1 c41 #abd ---- ,day1 #abd ---- for a ,young ,lady1 #abe ---- ,morning1 ib4 ---- ,undress1 ib4 ---- ,dress ,morning1 #abf ---- ,plain1 for an ,elderly ,lady1 ib4 ---- for a ,member of the ,society of ,friends1 ib4 ---- for an ,elderly ,friend1 #abg ---- ,bonnet1 ib4 ---- another ,shape1 ib4 ---- ,helmet ,morning1 ib4 ---- ,bonnet ,cap1 #abh ---- another ,shape1 #abi ---- ,handkerchief ,bonnet1 #abh ---- ,bonnet ,cap for a ,child1 #abi ---- ,widows1 ib4 ---- ,velvet1 #acj ---- ,silk1 ib4 ---- ,half-,cap1 or ,lappets1 #abi ,,capes1 see ,collars ,,capette1 #abi ,,care of a ,lady's ,wardrobe1 #aai ---- of a ,gentleman's ,wardrobe1 #aba ,,card ,,case1 or ,sachet1 #bab ,,carpets1 see ,upholstery ---- to ,scour1 see ,receipts ,,carriage ,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,chain-,,stitch1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ---- ,fancy1 ib4 ---- on ,gathers1 #i ,,chair for ,invalids1 #baf ---- and other ,covers1 see ,upholstery ,,chamber ,,bottle ,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,chamber ,,bucket ,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,cheat1 ,boy's1 #adg ,,checks1 see ,purchasing ,goods ,,cheese ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,chemisette1 #ig ,,china ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,chintzes1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ---- to ,clean1 see ,receipts ,,church ,,seats and ,,basses1 see ,upholstery ,,clean1 ,curtains1 see ,receipts ---- ,gold and ,silver ,lace1 ib4 ---- ,gloves1 ib4 ---- ,shoes1 ib4 ---- ,sponges1 ib4 ---- ,hair ,brushes1 ib4 ---- ,paint1 ib4 ---- ,cotton1 ,woollen1 ,silk1 ib4 ,,clear ,,starching1 see ,washing ,,clergyman',s ,dress1 #adg ---- ,cassock1 ib4 ---- ,gown1 ib4 ---- ,surplice1 #adi ---- ,sash1 or ,badge1 ib4 ---- ,scarf1 or ,hood1 ib4 ---- ,bands1 ib4 ,,clerk',s ,gown1 #aej ,,cloaks1 ,infants'1 #ch ---- ,womans'1 #afc ---- ---- ,short1 or ,mantelet1 #afd ---- ---- ,carriage1 ib4 ---- ---- ,garden1 ib4 ---- ---- ,servants1 ib4 ---- ,old ,woman's1 and ,hood1 ib4 ---- ,school ,girls'1 #afe ---- ,boys'1 ib4 ,,cloth1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,clothes ,,bag1 see ,house ,linen ,,cockades1 #bb ,,collarette1 #ih ,,collars1 ,gentlemens'1 #ade ---- ,boys'1 #adf ---- ,general ,rules for ,cutting1 #ad ---- ,women's1 #ic ---- ---- ,round1 #id ---- ---- another1 #ii ---- for ,infants1 #id ---- ,square1 #ie ---- ,mourning1 #ii ---- for a ,cloak1 #id ---- to wear over a ,shawl1 ib4 ---- a very ,pretty one1 #ie ---- for ,walking in1 ib4 ---- ,morning1 #ie ---- for a ,habit-,shirt1 #ig ---- ,pointed1 ib4 ,,comb ,,bag1 #bji ,,completing ,,work1 ,general ,rules1 #aj ,,cooking ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,coronation ,,braid1 #h ,,corsets1 see ,stays1 #ahj ,,cord1 sewn on1 #h ,,coral ,,pattern1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,cot for ,infants1 #dc ---- or ,hammock1 #aih ,,cottons1 to ,clean1 see ,receipts ---- ,sewing1 how to keep1 #a ---- ---- how worked1 ib4 ,,covers1 ,,cases1 c41 #bjh ,,counterpanes1 see ,upholstery ,,court ,,plaister1 to make1 see ,receipts ,,coverlets1 see ,upholstery ,,crack1 on mending one1 #d ,,crape1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,cradle1 #db ,,cravat1 #adg ,,crib1 #db ,,crosswise1 how to ,cut1 #ad ,,curtains1 see ,upholstery ---- ,moreen to ,clean1 see ,receipts ,,cuffs1 ,tidy1 #ge ---- ,morning1 ib4 ---- ,satin1 ib4 ---- ,dress1 ib4 ---- ,double1 #gf ---- ,mourning1 ib4 ---- ,muslin1 ib4 ---- ,mourning1 ib4 ---- another ,shape1 ib4 ,,cutting ,,out1 ,general ,rules1 #ad ,,cutting ,,out ,dresses1 #ajg ,,darning1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,dinner ,,napkins1 #agi ,,divan1 see ,upholstery ,,double ,,herring-,,boning1 #i ,,down1 see ,fur1 #age ,,drawers1 see ,trowsers1 #ej ---- ,women's1 #ec ---- ,women's1 ib4 ---- ,men's1 #ed ,,drapery1 see ,upholstery ,,dresses1 see ,gowns1 #ajf ---- see ,frocks1 #cb ,,dressing-,,gowns1 ,men's1 #fh ---- ---- ,plain1 ib4 ---- ---- ,cloak1 #gj ---- ---- ,ladies'1 #fi ---- ,jacket1 #gj ---- ,case1 or ,tidy for ,travelling1 #bjh ,,dresser ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,dusters1 see ,house ,linen ,,doyleys1 ib4 ,,dye ,cotton ,nankeen1 see ,receipts ---- ,furniture1 ib4 ---- ,gloves1 ib4 ,,eau ,,de ,,cologne1 see ,receipts ,,fancy ,,bobbin ,,edging1 see ,stitches on ,needlework ---- ,button-hole ,stitch1 ib4 ---- ,chain-stitch1 ib4 ---- ,herring-bone ,stitch1 ib4 ,,fiancee1 or ,neck ,tie1 #gi ,,flannel1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ---- ,scouring1 see ,upholstery ,,flannel1 ,petticoats1 ,women's1 #gb ---- ---- ,small ,size1 ib4 ---- ---- ,girl's ,large ,size1 ib4 ---- ---- ,smaller1 ib4 ---- ---- ,ten years old1 ib4 ---- ---- ,six years old1 ib4 ,,fleas1 to ,destroy1 see ,receipts ,,flies1 to ,destroy1 see ,receipts ,,flounces1 ,rules for ,cutting1 #ad ,,footstools1 see ,upholstery ,,french ,,polish1 see ,receipts ,,frills1 #gd ---- ,general ,rules for ,cutting1 #ad ---- ,simple1 ib4 ---- ,neat1 ib4 ---- ,crimped1 ib4 ---- ,for ,children1 ib4 ---- ,dress1 ib4 ---- ,otherwise called ,ruche1 ib4 ,,frocks1 ,infant's1 see ,baby ,linen ---- ,child's simple1 #aad ---- ---- full1 ib4 ---- ---- simple1 three-quarters1 #aae ---- ---- plain1 ib4 ---- ---- full1 #aaf ---- ---- ,morning1 ib4 ---- ---- for a ,boy1 ib4 ---- ---- jean tunic1 #aag ---- ---- surtout1 ib4 ,,front for ,shirts1 #adg ,,funeral1 articles worn at1 #abc ,,fur ,,and ,,down1 #age ---- ,muff1 #agf ---- ,boa1 ib4 ---- ,tippet1 #agg ---- ,opera1 ib4 ---- ,how to clean1 ib4 ---- ,to clean ,down1 ib4 ---- ,how to ,preserve1 see ,receipts1 #agg ,,furniture1 ,hints on ,buying1 see ,receipts ,,gaging1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,gathering1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,gaufering1 see ,on ,washing ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,needlework1 #a ,,general ,,observations ,,on ,,baby ,,linen1 #ag ---- ---- ,,on ,,completing ,,work1 #aj ---- ---- ,,on ,,cutting ,,out1 #ad ---- ---- ,,on ,,gentleman',s ,,wardrobe1 #aba ---- ---- ,,on ,,lady',s ,,wardrobe1 #aai ---- ---- ,,on ,,linen ,,press1 #ahg ---- ---- ,,on ,,needlework1 #a ---- ---- ,,on ,,purchasing ,,work1 #aa ---- ---- ,,on ,,packing1 #aba ,,general ,,rules ,,for ,,completing ,,work1 #aj ,,german ,,hemming1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,ginghams1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,gloves1 #age ---- to ,wash1 see ,receipts ---- to ,clean1 ib4 ---- to ,dye1 ib4 ---- ,cases1 #bji ,,glue1 ,how to make1 see ,receipts ,,gowns1 #ajf ---- ,general ,observations on1 ib4 ---- ,on ,cutting out1 #aig ---- ,side pieces1 #ajh ---- ,back ,shoulder-pieces1 ib4 ---- ,shoulder straps1 ib4 ---- ,skirts1 #aji ---- ,plain high body1 ib4 ---- ,full ,french body1 ib4 ---- ,wrapping high body1 #aaj ---- ,high1 to open in front1 ib4 ---- ,another pattern1 #aaa ---- ,plain low body1 ib4 ---- ,another ,french low front1 ib4 ---- ,trimming low bodies1 ib4 ---- ,french low full body1 #aab ---- ,grecian low body1 ib4 ---- ,a simple low body1 #aac ---- ,full low body1 ib4 ---- ,select dresses1 ib4 ---- ,nursing1 ib4 ---- ,bathing1 #fa ,,gown1 ,clergyman's1 #adh ---- ,clerk's1 #aej ,,grave ,,clothes1 #abd ,,grease1 to ,remove1 see ,receipts ,,gussets1 to ,cut1 #ad ,,ham ,,and ,,bacon ,,bags1 see ,house ,linen ,,hats ,,and ,,caps1 #aec ,,hat ,,linings1 #ad ,,hat-,,bands1 #abc ,,habit-,,shirts1 #ii ,,heavy ,,pincushions1 #ae ,,hemming1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,herring-,,boneing1 ib4 ,,honey-,,combing1 ib4 ,,hood1 ,oiled ,silk1 #afb ,,horse-,,shoe ,,stitch1 see ,stitches on ,needlework ,,house ,,linen1 #agh ---- ---- ,bed-,room ,linen1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,sheets1 #aha ---- ---- ---- ---- ,pillow ,cases1 #ahc ---- ---- ---- ---- ,towels1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,toilet ,covers1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,pincushions1 ib4 ---- ---- ,table ,linen1 #agi ---- ---- ---- ---- ,table ,cloths1 #ahc ---- ---- ---- ---- ,dinner ,napkins1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- how to fold1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,doyleys1 #ahd ---- ---- ---- ---- ,large ,tray ,napkins1 #agi ---- ---- ---- ---- ,small ditto ditto1 ib4 ---- ---- ,pantry ,linen1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,knife-box ,cloths1 #ahd ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- ,pantry ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,dresser ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,plate-basket ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,china ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,glass ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,lamp ,clothes1 #ahe ---- ---- ---- ,aprons1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,waiting ,gloves1 ib4 ---- ---- ,house-maids' ,linen1 #ahj ---- ---- ---- ,house ,dusters1 #ahe ---- ---- ---- ,scouring ,flannel1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,paint ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,chamber ,bottle do41 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- bucket do41 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,clothes ,bags1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,pinafores1 #ahe ---- ---- ,kitchen ,linen1 #ahj ---- ---- ---- ,table ,cloths1 #ahf ---- ---- ---- ,dresser ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,cooking ,cloths1 #ahj ---- ---- ---- ,roller ,towels1 #ahj1 #ahf ---- ---- ---- ,dusters1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,tea ,cloths1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,knife ,cloths1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,pudding ,cloths1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,jelly ,bags1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,ham and ,bacon ,bags1 ib4 ib ---- ---- ---- ,cheese ,cloths1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,stable ,linen1 #ahj ---- ---- ---- ,carriage ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,paint ,cloths1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,flannels1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,saddle-,cases1 ib4 ---- ---- ,general ,observations1 ib4 ---- ----1 ,remarks1 #ahj ,,housewife1 #bab ,,infant',s ,,wardrobe1 #af ,,imitation ,,of ,,maple ,,wood1 see ,receipts ,,india ,,rubber ,,varnish1 ib4 ,,ink1 ,marking1 to ,make1 ib4 ---- ---- to ,remove ,spots of1 ib4 ,,iron-,,moulds1 to ,remove1 ib4 ,,jacket1 ,woman's ,night1 #ee ---- ---- ,dressing1 #gj ,,jelly ,,bags1 see ,house ,linen ,,knife ,,and ,,fork ,,case1 #baa ,,knitting1 see separate ,index ,,ladder1 on taking up1 #d ,,lamp ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,lappets1 #abi ,,lavender ,,water1 to ,make1 see ,receipts ,,lawn1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,lending ,,linen1 for the ,poor1 #ag ,,leggets1 #eb ,,linen1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,linen1 ,baby1 #af ---- ,men and ,women's1 #df ---- ,house1 #agh ---- ,press1 #ahg ,,linings1 #ad ,,mantua-,,maker',s ,,hem1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,marking1 ib4 ,,mantelet1 #afd ,,mat1 #baj ,,mattresses1 see ,upholstery ,,mending ,a ,,crack1 #d ,,mildew1 to remove1 see ,receipts ,,modesty1 #ajb ,,mourning1 #abb ,,muff1 #agf ,,napkins1 ,infants1 see ,baby ,linen ---- ,dinner1 see ,house ,linen ,,needles1 ,how to keep1 #a ,,needle ,,case1 #ae #bac ,,needlework1 ,observations on1 #a ,,neck-,,tie1 #gi ,,neck ,,handkerchief1 #afi ,,night-,,jacket1 #ee ---- ,gown1 #ef ---- ,another pattern1 #eg ---- ---- ,gored1 ib4 ,,night-,,gown ,,bag1 #bjh ---- ,chair1 #de ,,nosegay ,,case1 #bab ,,nursery ,,bag1 #baj ,,opera1 or ,ruff1 see ,fur1 #agg ,,packing1 ,directions for1 #abj ,,paint ,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ---- ,spots1 to remove1 see ,receipts ,,pelerines1 see ,collars1 #ajj ---- long1 #aja ---- ---- ,frill for1 ib4 ---- ,morning1 #ajj ---- ,handsome1 #aic ,,pelisse1 ,baby's1 see ,baby ,linen ---- ,child's1 #aah ,,petticoats1 ,flannel1 #gb ---- ,calico1 c41 #ajd ---- ,skirts for1 ib4 ---- ,bodies or waists1 ib4 ---- ,nursing1 #aje ---- ,pieces1 fulled in bands1 how to cut1 #ae ,,pillows1 see ,upholstery ,,pillow ,,cases1 see ,house ,linen ,,pinafores and ,saccarines1 #acj ---- ,child's ,surtout1 ib4 ---- ---- ,close or ,smock-,frock1 #aca ---- ---- ,large sized1 #acb ---- ---- ---- for ,boys1 ib4 ---- ---- ,saccarines1 #acc ---- ,housemaid's1 #acd #ahj ---- ,school ,girl's1 #ace ---- ,child's1 #ace ---- ,surgeon's1 ib4 ---- ,waggoner's ,smock1 #acf ,,pincushions1 ,nursery1 see ,baby ,linen ---- heavy1 #ae ---- other sorts1 #bac ---- covers1 see ,house ,linen ,,piping1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ---- how to cut1 #ad ,,pitch and ,oil spots to remove1 see ,receipts ,,plaiting1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,plate-,,basket ,,bag1 see ,house ,linen ,,platting1 see ,straw ,work ,,pockets1 #gc ---- for ,aprons1 #gh ---- ,watch1 #baf ---- ,handkerchiefs1 #agj ---- ---- ,case1 #bji ,,portfolio for a ,carriage1 #bae ---- for travelling1 ib4 ,,powder for ,infant's ,dust bags see ,receipts ,,pot-,,pourri1 ib4 ,,preserve ,linen1 ,woollen1 ,furs1 c41 ib4 ,,prepare ,rabbit ,skins1 ib4 ,,prints1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,pudding ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,puffing1 see ,stitches in ,needle-,work ,,purchasing ,,goods1 #aa ---- ---- ,blue ,checks1 #ab ---- ---- ,calico1 ib4 ---- ---- ,cambric1 ib4 ---- ---- ,cloth1 #ac ---- ---- ,crape1 #ac ---- ---- ,flannels1 ib4 ---- ---- ,lawn1 #ab ---- ---- ,linen1 ib4 ---- ---- ,muslin ,checks1 ib4 ---- ---- ,prints1 ,chintzes1 c41 #ac ---- ---- ,satins1 ib4 ---- ---- ,silks1 ib4 ---- ---- ,stuffs1 ib4 ,,quilting1 see ,stitches in ,needle-,work ,,raise ,,the ,,surface ,,of ,,velvet1 see ,receipts ,,receiver1 see ,baby ,linen ,,receipts1 #bag ---- ,balls to remove ,grease1 #bbi ---- ,another ,receipt1 ib4 ---- ,bleaching ,liquid1 #bah ---- ,bleach ,wool1 #bbi ---- ,bleach ,yellow ,linen1 #bbc ---- ,blonde to ,wash1 #bbc ---- ---- ,town ,washed1 #bbc ---- ---- ,wool1 #bbi ---- ,brass ,ornaments to keep1 #bcc ---- ,bugs to prevent1 #bbg ---- ,bugs to destroy1 ib4 ---- ,carpets to scour1 #bbb ---- ,clean ,bombazine1 #bba ---- ---- ,brass ,ornaments1 #bcc ---- ---- ,cotton ,silk1 ,woollen1 #bbi ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- #bba ---- ---- ,chintz1 #bbb ---- ---- ,curtains1 ,moreen1 #bbi ---- ---- ,calico ,furniture1 #bbb ---- ---- ,gold and ,silver ,lace1 #bbe ---- ---- ,hair ,brushes1 #bcd ---- ---- ,kid ,gloves1 #bcd1 #bbd ---- ---- ,paint1 #bcj ---- ---- ,satin ,shoes1 #bbd ---- ---- ,sponges1 #bcb ---- ,cloth to make ,waterproof1 #bbh ---- ,court ,plaister1 to make1 #bbf ---- ,dye ,cotton and ,nankeen1 #bbd ---- ---- ,furniture buff1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- pink1 #bbe ---- ---- ---- blue1 ib4 ---- ,leather 7wash for71 #bbd ---- ---- ,gloves like tan1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- purple1 ib4 ---- ,eau de ,cologne1 #bbf ---- ,fleas1 to destroy1 #bbg ---- ,flies1 to destroy1 ib4 ---- ,french polish for ,furniture1 #bcc ---- ---- ---- ,boots and ,harness1 #bbh ---- ,fur1 to preserve1 #bbe ---- ,furniture1 hints on buying1 #bcj ---- ,grease to remove from ,silk1 #bbj ---- ,another ,receipt1 ib4 ---- ---- from ,silk or ,woollen1 ib4 ---- ---- from ,linen1 #bbi ib4 ---- ,glue to make1 #bcb ---- ,imitation of ,maple wood1 #bcc ---- ,indian ,rubber ,varnish1 #bca ---- ,ink1 permanent marking1 #bag ---- ---- red marking1 ib4 ---- ---- to remove spots of1 ib4 ---- ---- to remove1 common1 #bah ---- ---- from ,cloth1 c41 ib4 ---- ---- ,iron-moulds1 to remove1 #bbb ---- ---- ,lavender water to make1 #bbf ---- ,mildew to take out1 #bba ---- ,paint spots1 to remove1 ib4 ---- ,pitch and ,oil spots to remove1 #bbj ---- ,powder for ,infant's dust bags1 #bbf ---- ,pot-pourri1 ib4 ---- ---- quicker sort1 ib4 ---- ,prepare ,rabbit skins1 #bbg ---- ,preserve ,linen from ,moths1 #bbe ---- ---- ,woollens and ,blankets1 ib4 ---- ---- ,furs1 ib4 ---- ---- ,blonde1 ,satin1 c41 #bbd ---- ---- ,gilt ,frames1 #bbh ---- ,raise the ,surface of ,velvet1 #bbf ---- ,restore rusty ,silk1 #bba ---- ---- ,scorched ,linen1 #bbb ---- ,revive ,gilt ,frames1 #bbh ---- ,another ,method1 ib4 ---- ,salts of ,lemon1 to make1 #bah ---- ,scent ,bags1 #bbf ----- ,scouring ,drops to make1 #bbj ---- ,another kind1 #bcc ---- ---- ---- ,cheap1 ib4 ---- ,shoes to make ,waterproof1 #bbf ---- ,stains to remove1 from acids1 #bai ---- ---- ,another ,receipt1 ib4 ---- ---- ,fruit or ,wine1 ib4 ---- ---- ,port ,wine1 ib4 ---- ---- ,out of ,scarlet ,cloth1 ib4 ---- ---- ,black ,cloth1 ,silk1 c41 ib4 ---- ,starch1 to ,make1 #bbf ---- ,varnish old ,straw ,hats1 #bbe ---- ,wash black ,silk or ,crape1 #bbc ---- ---- ,silk ,handkerchiefs1 #bbb ---- ---- coloured ,prints1 ,muslins1 #bbc ---- ---- ,blonde1 ib4 ---- ---- ,lace1 #bbd ---- ---- ,kid ,gloves1 #bbd #bcd ---- ---- ,leather ,gloves1 #bbd ---- ---- ,silk ,dresses1 #bcj ---- ,waterproof1 to make ,shoes1 #bbf #bbh ---- ---- to make ,cloth1 #bbh ,,restore ,,rusty ,,silk1 see ,receipts ---- ,scorched linen1 ib4 ,,robes1 ,infant's1 see ,baby ,linen ,,roller ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,roquelaure1 #afd ,,rosette1 see ,baby ,linen ,,rouleaus1 #h ,,ruche1 #gd ,,running1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,saccarine1 see ,pinafore ,,satchel1 or ,card ,case1 #bab ,,salts ,,of ,,lemon1 see ,receipts ,,sash1 or ,badge1 #adi ,,satin1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,scarfs1 ,clergyman's1 #adi ---- ,dress1 or ,caprice1 #hj ---- ,cashmere1 ib4 ---- ,simple1 ib4 ,,scent ,,bags1 see ,receipts ,,scissors1 ,remarks upon1 #a #ae ,,scouring ,,flannel1 #ahj ---- ,drops1 see ,receipts ,,screens1 see ,upholstery ,,seaman',s ,,case1 #bae ,,sentiment1 or ,neck ,tie1 #gi ,,serpentine ,,stitch1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,sewing ,,silks1 ,how kept1 #a ,,sewing and ,felling1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,shoulder ,pieces1 or ,stays1 how cut1 #ae ,,shifts ,gored1 #df ---- ,not hollowed1 #dg ---- ,crossed1 #dh ---- ,child's 444 ib4 ---- ,to save a seam and two fells1 #di ,,shirts1 ,infant's see ,baby ,linen ---- ,for ,labouring ,men1 #acg ---- ,scales for1 #aci ---- ,on making up1 #ada ---- ,gentlemen's1 #adb ---- ---- ,fronts1 #adc ---- ,young ,child's ,front1 ib4 ---- ,a ,boy's ,front1 ib4 ---- ,an older ,boy's ,front1 ib4 ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,a ,gentleman's ,front1 ib4 ---- ,another1 #add ---- ,shoulder-,strap1 ib4 ---- ,child's ,shoulder-,strap1 ib4 ---- ,sleeves1 ib4 ---- ,wristbands1 #ade ---- ,binders and ,linings1 ib4 ---- ,collars1 ib4 ---- ,boy's ,collars1 #adf ---- ,men's ,collars1 ib4 ,,shawls1 ,infant's1 see ,baby ,linen ---- ,carriage1 #aff ---- ,walking1 ib4 ---- ,for a ,member of the ,society of ,friends1 ib4 ---- ,quilted1 ib4 ---- ,cashmere1 ib4 ---- ,mourning1 #afg ---- ,plain walking1 ib4 ---- ,travelling1 ib4 ,,sheets1 see ,house ,linen ,,shoes1 ,,slippers1 #aga ---- ---- ,men's1 ib4 ---- ---- ,ladies'1 ib4 ---- ---- ,quilted1 #agb ---- ---- ,ladies'1 ib4 ---- ---- ,half1 #agc ---- ---- ,carriage1 ib4 ---- ---- ,infants' first1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- second1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,ticking1 #agd ---- ,to ,cover1 ib4 ---- ,to ,clean1 see ,receipts ---- ,bags #ahf ,,shoulder-,,pieces1 #ia ---- ---- ,for ,woman's ,cloak1 #ib ---- ---- ,for a ,child's ,cloak1 ib4 #ic ---- ---- ---- ,woman's ,cloak1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,infant's ,cloak1 #ic ,,shroud1 #abd ,,silk1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ---- sewing1 how to keep1 #a ,,sleeves1 ,infant's first1 see ,baby ,linen ---- ,general ,rules1 #ae ---- ,child's first1 #he ---- ,older ,child's1 ib4 ---- ,long1 #hf ---- ,circular1 ib4 ---- ,plain long1 #hg ---- ,full1 ib4 ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,small1 #hh ---- ,old ,woman's1 ib4 ---- ,boy's1 ib4 ---- ,woman's large1 ib4 ---- ---- short1 #hi ---- ---- short1 #ij ---- ---- circular1 ib4 ---- ---- tight1 ib4 ---- ,on lining1 #f ,,slips1 or ,pillow ,cases1 #ahb ,,sofa1 see ,upholstery ,,spencers1 ,plain1 #afg ---- ,dress1 #afh ,,starch1 to make1 see ,receipts ,,stays1 or ,corsets1 #hj ---- ---- materials for1 #ha ---- ---- making up1 ib4 ---- ,woman's1 ib4 ---- ---- gores for1 #hb ---- ---- shoulder straps1 ib4 ---- ---- lace-holes1 ib4 ---- ---- modesty-piece1 ib4 ---- ---- nursing1 ib4 ---- ,men's1 #hc ---- ,coachmen's1 ib4 ---- ,hunter's1 ib4 ---- ,child's small1 ib4 ---- ---- large1 ib4 ---- ---- first1 see ,baby ,linen ,,stains1 to remove1 see ,receipts ---- ---- from acids1 ib4 ---- ---- from fruit or wine1 ib4 ---- ---- from ,port wine1 ib4 ---- ---- out of scarlet cloth1 ib4 ---- ---- out of black cloth1 ib4 ,,steel1 ,how to keep1 #a ,,stitches ,,in ,,needlework1 #a ---- ,angular stitch1 #i ---- ,biassing1 #f ---- ,binding1 #g ---- ,braiding1 #f ---- ,button-holes1 #c ---- ,chain-stitch1 #h ---- ,coral pattern1 #aj ---- ,darning1 #d ---- ,double gathering1 #b ---- ,fancy ,chain-stitch1 #h ---- ,fancy ,bobbin-stitch1 #i ---- ,fancy ,herring-boning1 ib4 ---- ,fancy ,button-hole stitch1 #aj ---- ,gaging1 #g ---- ,gathering1 #b ---- ,german hemming1 #c ---- ,hemming1 #a ---- ,herring-boning1 #d ---- ,honey-combing1 #g ---- ,horseshoe-stitch1 #aj ---- ,mantua-maker's hem1 #b ---- ,marking1 #e ---- ,quilting1 #g ---- ,running1 #b ---- ,serpentine stitch1 #i ---- ,sewing and felling1 #b ---- ,stitching1 ib4 ---- ,whipping1 #c ,,stocks1 #adg ,,straw ,,platting1 see ,separate ,index ,,stuffs1 see ,on ,purchasing ,goods ,,suck1 to ,baby's bottle1 #de ,,surplice1 #adi ,,surtout1 #aag ,,table ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,table ,,covers1 see ,upholstery ,,tapes1 ,how to keep1 #a ,,tea ,,cloths1 see ,house ,linen ,,thimble1 ,remarks upon1 #a ,,thread1 ,how to strengthen1 #a ---- ,how to keep1 ib4 ,,tippets1 see ,collars ---- ,school ,girl's1 #ii ---- ,another1 #ajd ---- ,another1 #afh ,,toilet ,covers1 see ,house ,linen ,,towels1 see ,house ,linen ,,travelling ,,dressing-,,case1 #bae ---- ,portfolio1 ib4 ---- ,bag1 #bad ,,trowsers1 ,child's1 #ej ---- ---- larger1 #ea ---- ,girl's1 ib4 ---- ,boy or ,girl's1 #eb ---- ,turkish1 #ed ---- ,for a little ,boy1 ib4 ,,trunk ,,case1 #baa ,,tucks1 ,making1 #e ,,tucker1 #ig ,,tunics1 see ,frocks ,,upholstery1 #aij ---- ,arm chair ,covers1 #bjf ---- ,bedsteads1 #aij ---- ---- ,hints on putting up1 #aia ---- ---- ,on ,drapery1 #aic ---- ---- ,on ,heads and tops1 #aie ---- ---- ,on ,footboards1 ib4 ---- ---- ,on furnishing1 #d posts1 #aic ---- ---- ,on ,prices1 #aii ---- ---- ,on ,coverlets1 #bjj ---- ---- ,on ,blankets1 ib4 ---- ,beds1 the ,tent1 #aia #aie ---- ---- ,camp1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,half-tester1 ib1 #aif ---- ---- ,french ,pole1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,french ,arrow1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,french1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,french ,block1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,french ,canopy1 ib1 #aig ---- ---- ,turn-up1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,press1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,stump1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,trestle1 ib4 ib4 ---- ---- ,hanging1 or ,cot1 #aih ---- ,mattress1 ib4 ---- ,beds1 #aii ---- ,bolsters1 ib4 ---- ,pillows1 ib4 ---- ,blinds1 window1 #bjf ---- ,chair1 ,sofa c4 covers1 ib4 ---- ,carpets1 #bja ---- ,curtains1 window1 #bjc ---- ---- ,muslin1 #bje ---- ---- ,little ,half1 ib4 ---- ---- ,full1 ib4 ---- ---- ,rod1 ib4 ---- ,church ,basses1 #bjg ---- ,church ,seats1 ib4 ---- ,divan1 #bjf ---- ,footstools and ,hassocks1 #bjg ---- ,screens1 ib4 ---- ,sofa1 #bjf ---- ,table ,covers1 #bjg ---- ,watch-pockets1 #bja ,,varnish1 old ,straw ,hats1 see ,receipts ,,veils1 common1 #hd ---- ,crape1 ib4 ---- ,demi-voile1 ib4 ---- ,mourning1 ib4 ---- ,riding1 ib4 ---- ,tulle1 ib4 ,,velvet1 ,dress1 #aac ---- ,cap1 #acj ---- ,to raise the ,surface of1 see ,receipts ,,vest1 ,boy's1 #fj ---- ,night1 #fa ---- ,day1 ib4 ,,waistcoat1 ,lady's ,flannel1 #eh ---- ,boy's1 ib4 ---- ---- ,invalid1 #ei ---- ,man's under1 ib4 ---- ,boy's upper1 #fj ---- ,child's1 see ,vest ,,waiting ,,gloves1 see ,house ,linen ,,washing ,,books1 for ,nursery1 #ahh ---- ---- ,ladies'1 #ahi ---- ---- ,gentlemen's1 ib4 ---- ---- ,house ,linen1 #aij ,,washing ,,and ,,ironing1 #bcd ---- ,articles used in the ,wash-house1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,laundry1 #bce ---- ,clear ,starching1 #bcf ---- ,gaufiering1 #bcg ---- ,hanging to dry1 #bcf ---- ,ironing1 ,mangling1 #bce ,,wash1 ,black ,silk or ,crape1 see ,receipts ---- ,silk ,handkerchiefs1 ib4 ---- ,coloured ,prints1 c41 ib4 ---- ,lace1 ib4 ---- ,blonde1 ib4 ---- ,kid ,gloves1 ib4 ---- ,silk ,dresses1 ib4 ,,watch ,,pocket1 see ,upholstery1 #baf ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ,,waterproof1 see ,receipts ---- ,shoes and ,boots1 ib4 ,,whipping1 see ,stitches in ,needlework ,,work-,,box1 #ae ---- ,basket1 #bad ,,yard ,,measure1 #bac ,,on ,,knitting4 ,page ,,general ,,observations #bcg ,,knitting ,,pins ib4 ,,materials ,,for ,,knitting ib4 ,,on ,,knitting ,,stitches #bch ---- ---- ,binding1 #bdj ---- ---- ,casting on stitches1 #bch ---- ---- ,common knitting stitch1 #bci ---- ---- ,dutch common stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,finishing off1 ib4 ---- ---- ,narrowing1 ib4 ---- ---- ,slipping a stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,turns for stitches1 #bdj ---- ---- ,turn or seam stitch1 #bci ---- ---- ,welting1 #bdj ---- ---- ,widening1 #bci ,,fancy ,,stitches1 #bdj ---- ---- ,berlin wire or insertion1 ib4 ---- ---- ,chain stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- two coloured1 ib4 ---- ---- ,cross-stitch pattern1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,open1 ib4 ---- ---- ,crowsfoot stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,curb stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,diamond stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,embossed1 ib4 ---- ---- ,double knitting1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,imitation1 ib4 ---- ---- ,fantail stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,french stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ,raised1 ib4 ---- ---- ,hem open1 ib4 ---- ---- ,herring-bone stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ---- ---- ,hexagon embossed1 ib4 ---- ---- ,honey-comb1 ib4 ---- ---- ,huckaback1 or rough-cast1 ib4 ---- ---- ,lace wave stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,ladder1 ornamental1 ib4 ---- ---- ,muffatee stitch1 new1 #bdj ---- ---- ,network1 imitation1 #bdd ---- ---- ,new stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,nondescript1 ib4 ---- ---- ,open stitch1 plain1 ib4 ---- ---- ---- ---- ,improved1 ib4 ---- ---- ,plat1 common1 ib4 ---- ---- ,purse stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,rib-stitch1 elastic1 ib4 ---- ,two colours1 ib4 ---- ---- ,rug stitch1 ib4 ---- ---- ,shawl stitch1 ib4 ,,fringes ,,knit1 ib4 ---- ---- ,plain1 ib4 ---- ---- ,beautiful on border1 ib4 ---- ---- ,very pretty1 ib ---- ---- ,for a ,shawl1 ib4 ---- ---- ,for ,curtains1 ib4 ,,armlet1 #bfb ,,bags1 #bgj ,,blankets1 #bga ,,bonnet1 or hood1 #bfi ,,boa or ruff1 spiral knit1 #bgf ,,bosom ,,friend1 #bge ,,boot1 ribbed1 #beg ---- ,for infants1 #beh ---- ,night1 ib4 ---- ,square night1 #bfj ---- ,derby jail1 #bei ,,border ,,and ,,corner1 handsome for ,shawl1 #bgb ,,braid1 open1 #bgj ,,braces1 for ,gentlemen1 #bge ,,cap1 ,infant's1 #bfh ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,gentleman#8s night1 #bfi ---- ,gentleman's silk travelling1 #bgc ---- ,travelling knit silk1 ---- ,knee1 #bfj ---- ,swiss1 #bgf ,,comforter1 #bfd ---- ,another1 #bfd ---- ,another1 ib4 ,,coverlet1 #bga ,,doyleys1 ,cotton1 ib4 ---- ---- ,other sorts1 ib4 ,,flower ,,stand ,,covers1 #bgh ,,frill1 #bfc ,,garters1 #bee ,,gloves1 ,large size1 #bfa ,,habit-,,shirt1 #bfd ,,handkerchief1 ib4 ---- ,small half1 #bfe ,,heel1 to wear in snow1 #beh ,,hood1 or ,bonnet for a baby1 #bfi ,,kettle ,,holders1 #bgj ,,light ,,scarf1 #bgg ,,mats1 #bgj ---- ,another kind1 #bga ,,mittens1 #bfa ---- ,for driving in1 ib4 ---- ,for ,infants1 ib4 ,,muffatees1 #bfd ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ---- ,another kind1 ib4 ,,napkin ,,rings1 #bge ,,petticoat1 for a child1 #bgd ,,pen ,,wiper1 #bgh ,,reticule ,,bag1 #bgc ,,rings1 for dinner napkins1 #bge ,,ruff1 #bfc ,,scarf1 ib4 ---- ,light1 #bgg ---- ,another1 #bfc ,,shoe1 over1 #beh ---- ,another pretty kind1 #beh ,,slippers1 ,infant's1 #bef ,,snow ,,heels1 #beh ,,socks1 ,night1 #bei ---- ,for invalids1 ib4 ---- ,for infants1 #bee ---- ,for grown-up persons1 ib4 ---- ,child's long1 #beg ---- ,child's improved1 #bgg ---- ,neat night1 #bfj ---- ,several kinds1 #bef ---- ,another sort1 #bee ,,sofa1 ,foot warmer1 #bgc ---- ,shawl for ,invalids1 #bge ,,sole1 ,for inside of ,shoe1 #bfj ,,stays ,for ,children1 #bgd ,,stockings1 #bec ---- ,proportions for1 ib4 ---- ,scales for1 #bed ---- ,child's first1 #beg ,,shawl1 ,for a ,baby1 #bfh ---- ,for a ,sofa1 #bge ---- ,honey-,comb1 #bfe ---- ,fantail border and corners1 #bgb ,,spiral ,boa or ,ruff1 #bgf ,,swiss ,,cap1 #bgf ,,tippet1 #bff ,,purse1 ib4 ---- ,another1 #bfg ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ,another very pretty1 ib4 ,,watch ,,guard1 ,silk1 #bgd ,,zephyr1 or ,baby's ,shawl1 #bfh ,,zephyrine1 or ,soft ,bonnet1 #bfg ,,on ,,straw ,,platting4 ,page ,,straw ,,platting1 #bgh ---- ---- ,general ,observations1 ib4 ,,bleaching ,,box1 #bgi ,,bonnet ,,stand1 #bhj ,,box ,,iron1 #bhj ,,mill ,,for ,,rolling ,,the ,,plat1 #bgi ,,straw ,,splitter1 #bha ,,straw1 on ,preparing1 ib4 ---- on ,bleaching1 ib4 ---- on ,dyeing ,black1 ib4 ---- ,another ,black ,dye1 #bhb ,,tin ,,dyeing ,,kettle1 #bhj ,,directions ,,for ,,platting1 #bhb ,,plats ,,in ,,general ,,use1 #bhc ---- ---- of #c1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 #bhd ---- ---- of #d1 ib4 ---- ---- ,angular #d1 ib4 ---- ---- of #e1 ib4 ---- ---- of #f1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #g1 #bhe ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #h1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #i1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 #bhe ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #aj1 #bhf ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #aa1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #ab1 ib4 ---- ---- of #ac1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 #bhg ---- ---- of #ad1 ib4 ---- ---- of #ae1 ib4 ---- ---- ,another1 ib4 ---- ---- of #af1 ib4 ,,hollow ,,spiral ,,plat1 ib4 ,,articles ,,made ,,of ,,straw ,,plat1 #bhh ,,bonnets1 #bhi ---- ,on cleaning1 ib4 ---- ,on turning1 #bij ,,hats1 ib4 ---- ,tuscan1 #bhg ,,leghorn1 ,english imitation1 #bhh ,,mats1 #bij ,,stiffening1 #bhi ---- ,made of ,vellum1 ib4 ---- ---- of ,bone-dust1 ib4 ,,thomas ,,evans1 ,,printer1 #cj1 ,,colmore ,,row1 ,,birmingham4