,,ten ,,cent ,,pocket ,,series ,,no4 #dcj ,edited by ,e4 ,haldeman-,julius ,poultry for ,profit ,r4 ,a4 ,power ,b4 ,s4 in ,agriculture ,,haldeman-,,julius ,,company ,,girard1 ,,kansas ,copyright1 #aibc1 ,haldeman-,julius ,company4 ,,poultry ,,for ,,profit ,,chapter ,i4 ,,the ,,outlook ,when a business reaches the billion dollar mark per year1 it is generally looked into by thinking people who like to know the facts of the case1 and who want to know just why the business has reached such large proportions4 ,in this little booklet ,i will endeavor to explain not only why the poultry business has grown so rapidly1 but will also reveal the most important secrets that have contributed largely to its rapid growth1 so that whether the reader is a farmer1 a town lot fancier1 or a student of economics1 he or she will gain much by the reading and the studying of the principles involved4 ,the high cost of living has forced many people to economize to the limit1 and reduce the family budget to the minimum4 ,people in the small towns and villages1 especially1 have sought various ways of increasing their earnings1 and one of the most popular methods resorted to has been to raise a few chickens1 thus utilizing the table scraps1 and odds and ends1 so that there will be no waste4 ,it has been proved beyond a shadow of a doubt that chickens can be raised profitably by the person living in town1 as well as by the farmer with his vast acres1 providing the townsman knows a few essential principles in regard to the proper handling of the birds4 ,poultry products are becoming popular more than ever before4 ,this is due in part to the increased price of beef and pork4 ,eggs are an established part of the nation's menu1 while the meat of the chicken is now within the means of most ,american families4 ,since these facts are recognized1 there has been a revolution in the poultry industry itself to cope with the increased demand for eggs1 meat1 and breeding stock4 ,many city people have taken advantage of the opportunity of raising chickens1 and many an old packing box1 or piano box has been relieved of its original purpose of encasing furniture1 or other articles1 and has done its bit to act as part of a shelter for housing some back-yard lot of chickens4 ,what has been done1 can be done1 and inasmuch as the value of the egg1 or the carcass of the bird still maintains its high standard on the market1 it stands to reason that the poultry industry is still in its infancy4 ,much more will be done in the future than has been done in the past4 ,consequently1 there is still one industry that is not overcrowded1 despite the great number who have taken it up1 either as a vocation1 or as an avocation4 ,when it is considered that ,new ,york ,city alone cannot get enough eggs to supply the demand during the fall and winter months1 and is willing to pay1 and pay dearly for breakfast eggs1 and that the vicinity of ,pataluma1 ,cal41 finds it profitable to ship its eggs across the continent to put them on the ,new ,york market1 it can be seen quite clearly that there are excellent possibilities in poultry1 even in just a small back yard flock4 ,the remainder of this booklet will be devoted to showing the ordinary layman1 who has had no previous knowledge or experience1 how he can take a small flock1 or a large flock1 and turn it into pleasure and profit4 ,however1 one word of caution is necessary4 ,let no one attempt to venture upon a poultry enterprise on a big scale at first4 ,history has shown countless failures in such attempts1 and history has a way of repeating itself4 ,it is always wiser to start moderately1 and work into it gradually4 ,this method always proves successful if common sense and moderation are exhibited4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,,the ,,poultry ,,breeds ,before attempting to discuss the methods of raising poultry it is deemed advisable to first take up a discussion of the different breeds and their characteristics4 ,outside of a few fancy breeds1 that are raised more for curiosity or show purposes1 we usually think of the breeds of poultry as three distinct classes4 ,the first of these three classes that we will take up for discussion is what is termed the egg breed4 ,this breed is usually represented by such birds as the ,leghorn1 ,ancona1 ,campine1 ,minorca1 or the ,houdan4 ,of these five breeds1 the ,leghorn and the ,minorca are by far the most popular4 ,there are different varieties of all these breeds1 but the ,white ,leghorn1 and the ,black ,minorca are much more popular in their respective breeds than are any other variety4 ,the other breeds are found scattered here and there1 but the ,leghorn and ,minorca are easily the leading egg breeds4 ,both of these breeds have many birds with yearly records of over #cjj eggs per year4 ,next let us consider a few of the important characteristics of these egg breeds4 ,these breeds are small1 light of weight1 very active1 and very hard to confine in a small inclosure4 ,the average adult bird of these breeds weighs about four pounds4 ,they are neat and attractive in appearance1 have clean shanks1 and have large head parts1 which are much more susceptible to being frosted in cold weather1 than the other breeds4 ,the egg production of the egg breed is of the best4 ,as has been stated1 there are a great number of birds in this class that have records of over #cjj eggs per year4 ,their eggs are white shelled1 of good size1 and rather long4 ,however the meat of these birds1 especially when matured1 is very tough1 and the active disposition of the egg breeds do not allow them to put on surplus flesh as with the other class of birds4 ,quick maturity is characteristic of the egg breeds1 however1 and because of this fact1 they make excellent small broilers when but a few months old4 ,but it is useless to put them on the market for meat when mature1 as they will not fatten like the heavier breeds4 ,the disposition of these breeds1 as has been said1 is active1 nervous1 and hard to confine4 ,therefore1 for the person with a small lot on which to raise chickens1 it would be well to choose a heavier breed that stands confinement better than these breeds4 ,these birds are active in the house in winter1 or on the range in summer1 and owing to their natural tendency to roam1 they are always uneasy when confined to a small yard4 ,they also have excellent powers of flight1 and can usually fly over a fence unless the fence is about eight feet high4 ,the egg breed1 owing to the activity so characteristic to such breeds1 makes poor sitters and mothers4 ,it is very seldom that a fowl of these breeds can content herself to sit on a nest of eggs three weeks1 which is the time required to hatch the eggs4 ,their eggs are usually hatched under a general purpose hen1 or with an incubator4 ,they make poor mothers1 because they usually like to roam too far to properly look after their young4 ,another point in favor of the egg breeds1 however1 is their early maturity4 ,usually these birds will mature in close to four months4 ,this allows them plenty of time to get into laying condition in the fall1 before cold weather starts1 and birds that can lay eggs during the months of ,november and ,december are certainly an asset1 as eggs always bring the highest prices on the market during these two months4 ,these birds will live on less feed than any other class because of their small size1 and their great foraging ability4 ,however1 these breeds are not as hardy as the heavier breeds1 and will not stand the cold as well1 because of their lack of feathers1 and large combs and wattles4 ,these large head parts are easily frost bitten in cold weather1 and when this happens the birds generally stop laying until they have recovered from the setback4 ,with these few words on the egg breed characteristics1 let us next consider the general purpose breed4 ,when we speak of general purpose breeds1 we usually mean one of four different breeds4 ,the ,plymouth ,rock1 ,rhode ,island ,red1 ,orpington1 and the ,wyandotte are the four leading breeds of this class4 ,then there are quite a few different varieties of each of these four breeds1 such as the ,barred ,rock1 the ,white ,rock1 the ,buff ,rock1 etc4 ,these breeds are very good both as egg birds1 and for meat purposes1 and find favor where ever they go4 ,i will attempt to analyze their characteristics1 bringing out their strong points and their weak points1 as ,i have already done with the egg breeds4 ,these breeds have been developed for egg production1 and as a result1 have many birds in the #cjj egg class1 as well as the strictly egg breeds4 ,if any are to be disposed of1 they have the ability to put on flesh and to bring a good price on the market for meat4 ,when one realizes that usually one half of a hatch of chickens are males1 and the other half females1 it can be easily seen that the general purpose bird has an advantage1 in the sale of the male birds1 and of the surplus females1 as they can be fed fattening feeds1 and a good profit made from this source4 ,the general purpose birds make excellent mothers and sitters4 ,they have a broody disposition1 and will set on the nest the required three weeks to hatch the chickens4 ,they will also take care of their young as a parent should4 ,in fact1 one of the criticisms of this class of birds is that they are too broody1 and are a nuisance in this particular4 ,they are far more quiet than the egg breeds1 and stand confinement with no apparent discomforture4 ,they make an ideal bird for the back lot4 ,these birds are fairly good foragers1 but take a little more feed to maintain their upkeep than do the egg breeds4 ,they have smaller head parts than the egg breeds1 and a heavier coating of flesh and feathers thus enabling them to withstand cold weather much better than the egg breeds4 ,these breeds1 in most cases1 have yellow shanks1 long well rounded bodies1 and weigh about six pounds at maturity4 ,they are not as nervous or as active as the egg breeds1 but require a month or two longer to mature and to get into laying condition1 than the egg breeds4 ,we will close this discussion on breed characteristics with a few words on the meat breeds4 ,there are four generally recognized meat breeds4 ,these are the ,brahams1 ,cochins1 ,langshans1 and the ,cornish ,game1 with their several varieties4 ,the adult meat bird usually weighs about eight pounds1 but the male birds weigh even more than this1 sometimes reaching twelve pounds or more4 ,these birds are rather awkward and clumsy1 in fact1 so much so that they make poor sitters1 as their awkwardness often causes them to break the eggs in the nest4 ,they have an abundance of feathers and meat on their body1 which makes them easy to winter4 ,generally speaking1 the heavier the bird1 the poorer the laying ability1 and this is true with the meat breeds4 ,they do not lay a very large number of eggs during the year1 being raised mostly for their flesh1 which is unsurpassed for table purposes4 ,as is the custom with heavy animals1 the meat birds are lazy and sluggish1 do not roam far for their food1 and consume a comparatively large amount of grain for this reason4 ,the meat breeds take a longer period of time to gain maturity than any other class1 the average time being about eight months4 ,as has been said1 they are primarily a meat breed1 and it is for this purpose that they are mostly used4 ,they do lay eggs1 however1 and about #ajj eggs per year is a good average4 ,they1 like the general purpose breed1 lay a brown shelled egg1 while the egg breeds lay a white shelled egg1 which brings a higher price on every market in the country but the ,boston market4 ,the brown shelled egg brings the higher price on the ,boston market4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,,getting ,a ,,start ,we have now discussed quite minutely the good and bad points of the three main classes of birds4 ,each class1 and each breed has its merits and demerits4 ,the one who wants to make a start in raising poultry should choose the breed that appeals to his likes the most1 and the one that he can realize the most success with1 under the conditions that he will have to raise them4 ,there is no best breed1 whether it is chickens1 cows1 or hogs4 ,they all have their good points1 and their weak ones4 ,it is up to each individual to pick the breed that appeals to him the most4 ,granted that you have pretty near decided the breed that you want to use1 let us see how we can secure our first birds1 if we have none as yet to start with4 ,there are generally three different ways in which we can secure our foundation stock4 ,the first way is by buying adult birds and mating them1 and raising the resulting chicks4 ,another way is by purchasing hatching eggs1 either from a neighbor or from a regular breeder or hatchery4 ,the third way is by buying day-old chicks from the various hatcheries1 and raising these to maturity4 ,let us consider each of these methods separately1 and thereby inform ourselves on the advantages and disadvantages of each method4 ,in selecting adult birds for breeding purposes1 and thus relying on these birds to produce the hatching eggs1 a few points are necessary to bear in mind1 if one wants the best results4 ,as these birds are to be the foundation of your future flock1 don't buy them too hastily1 and also do not try to buy the cheapest birds that you can find on the market1 as you usually get just what you pay for4 ,therefore1 the first thing to do is to look through poultry papers1 farm weeklies1 etc41 or to inquire locally from some neighboring breeder1 and find out just what it will cost you for adult females4 ,having the desired breed in mind1 it would be advisable to post yourself on the qualifications1 and the disqualifications of this particular breed4 ,standard weight for the breed is an important consideration in this connection4 ,if the standard weight for an adult female is five pounds1 try to get females that weigh around six pounds4 ,these qualifications can be found for every breed in the ,american ,standard of ,perfection1 a book published by the ,american ,poultry ,association1 and found in most libraries4 ,another very important factor is the health of the birds4 ,no birds should be used for breeding purposes that have ever had any of the common poultry diseases1 such as roup1 chicken pox1 etc41 as their resulting chicks will also have a tendency toward this disease4 ,select nothing but healthy1 vigorous birds1 of standard weight and color1 free from disease1 of good body conformation1 and not less than one year old4 ,when pullets1 or birds of less than a year old1 are used for breeding1 the result is a small egg1 which hatches out a small1 under-sized chick4 ,if you can get in touch with your ,state ,college of ,agriculture1 they can usually inform you of some reliable breeder who can furnish you with the kind of birds you want4 ,in selecting the cockerels1 or male birds1 one very good way is to buy them from an unrelated flock1 and buy some that are especially strong where the females are weak4 ,for instance1 if the females that you have purchased are a little light in color1 it would be advisable to secure males that are a little darker in color than the standard calls for4 ,it is never advisable to mate more than ten females with one male1 because if more are mated1 the fertility of the eggs will suffer4 ,many successful breeders even use two male birds with a pen of ten females1 alternating one male in the breeding pen every other day4 ,thus the fertility of the hatching egg is doubly assured4 ,a cheaper method of securing the foundation stock is in buying the hatching eggs1 but not quite as satisfactory as the first method4 ,these eggs are usually sold by the sitting1 amounting to fifteen eggs1 or by the hundred4 ,when buying by the sitting1 one buys from a regular breeder1 and pays anywhere from #a4ej up to as high as #ej per sitting4 ,it is not advisable for the beginner to pay either of these extremes1 but to plan to buy eggs not over #e per setting4 ,then as you progress in the business1 you can purchase males to mate with your females to gradually improve your flock4 ,this method necessitates the use of an incubator1 unless you can arrange with some friend who will loan you the use of his incubator4 ,of course1 if you already have some mature birds1 even of a different breed1 you can set these eggs under these birds1 when they become broody in the spring1 and secure even a larger hatch than you can from the use of an incubator4 ,generally1 a mature bird can set on about fifteen eggs1 and hatch every fertile egg in the sitting4 ,a more detailed discussion on incubation will be given in the next chapter4 ,the third way that one can secure a start in the poultry business1 is by buying day-old chicks4 ,this is an industry that has grown by leaps and bounds in the last few years4 ,the price generally charged for these day-old chicks is twice as much as is charged for the hatching eggs4 ,a fair price for #ajj day-old chicks is from #ae to #bj4 ,of course1 the quality of these chicks is inferior to the higher priced sittings of eggs1 but if one is not so particular as to type and show purposes1 this method is very satisfactory4 ,the day-old chick business is founded upon the principle that it is not advisable to feed the chick for the first forty-eight hours of its life1 because just before the chick emerges from the shell1 it absorbs the remainder of the yolk of the egg1 and it is exceedingly dangerous to feed the chick any food during that period1 as the chick will be sure to experience digestive troubles1 if any thing besides water and grit is given to the chicks for the first two days4 ,therefore1 these chicks are placed in a well ventilated box and sent by parcel post often as far as a thousand miles1 with no loss in mortality4 ,for one that has no incubator or mature hens1 this offers a very satisfactory method of starting out in the chicken business4 ,there are commercial hatcheries all over the country that make a business of purchasing hatching eggs from raisers of purebred poultry1 and hatching these eggs in mammoth incubators1 selling the chicks as soon as hatched1 in the manner described4 ,thus1 the one interested in getting a start in poultry has an option on either of these three ways4 ,the local circumstances of the purchaser will largely determine which method will be the best4 ,but which ever method is used1 let me caution you that too much care can not be given in finding a source that is perfectly honorable in their business dealings1 as there has been in the past a considerable amount of unfair dealing on the part of some dealers in the poultry business1 but ,i am glad to say that these people are fast being weeded out1 and the tendency is now for honest1 upright dealings in all three branches of the industry1 as the dishonest people have found that their methods forced them out of the business4 ,not everybody will be independent of the incubator1 however1 so we will next discuss something in regard to the commercial incubator1 also including and comparing the natural incubation of the egg4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,,incubation ,in order to get a better idea of artificial incubation1 let us first examine a few facts concerning the way in which the hen hatches her eggs in the natural process4 ,the fertile egg is hatched when the egg is subjected to a heat over #ajj degrees1 ,f41 for a period of about twenty-one days4 ,the mother hen1 by setting on the eggs for this period1 will bring off her hatch on the twenty-first day1 if she has been given ordinary care4 ,let us see what are the principles involved in this natural incubation1 that we may the better understand the artificial method of incubation4 ,when the hen first becomes broody1 and wants to sit1 she might try to 8steal her nest40 ,this is another way of saying that she will try to locate some secluded spot1 and after she has succeeded in laying a dozen or fifteen eggs1 she will then spend nearly her entire time on the nest1 until she proudly marches back to her old haunts with a small clutch of chickens4 ,it is a natural instinct of most hens to become broody in the spring of the year1 to reproduce their kind4 ,a constant desire to sit on the nest is a sure sign of broodiness4 ,when one has the eggs to put under the hen to hatch1 it is best first to try to secure a general purpose bird for this method1 as they have been found the best1 for reasons previously stated4 ,now let us prepare a nest for the bird1 so that she will have a good opportunity to do her best work4 ,we can either partition off a part of the chicken house1 or we can fix up a nest in another building entirely1 such as a garage1 barn1 or any other building that we may have on the premises4 ,next let us take some soil1 and make a round nest1 over a foot in diameter1 and four or five inches deep4 ,then we will dig out the center of the nest1 so as to make it hollow in the middle1 leaving at least two inches depth in the center4 ,then we will cover this earth with a few inches of cut straw1 shavings1 or leaves1 and press this covering down to conform to the shape of the soil foundation4 ,we can now place our eggs for hatching in the nest1 and put the bird on them4 ,however1 best results will be obtained if we wait until towards evening before we place the bird on the nest1 as she will be more contented then4 ,take the bird that you have chosen and place her gently upon the nest of eggs4 ,if she is at all broody1 she will be quite contented when she feels the eggs underneath her1 and settle down to business at once4 ,the hen should spend practically all of the next three weeks upon the nest1 the only time that she should be allowed to leave being the short time that she takes food and water twice a day4 ,having a quiet place1 and giving her nourishment twice a day1 she will be quite contented4 ,the hen does not need any special ration during this time1 other than one that is fairly heating4 ,corn is excellent during this period1 supplemented with a few other grains1 such as oats1 wheat1 etc4 ,a sufficient amount of fresh water should be available1 together with some kind of green food1 if possible1 such as cabbage or mangoes4 ,the hatch will not be endangered by the hen leaving the nest to eat4 ,in fact1 it is beneficial to the eggs to be temporarily cooled1 at least once a day1 while the hen is off the nest for a while4 ,the hen has a habit of turning the eggs under her every day1 not only removing their position from the center to the outside1 and vice versa1 but also turning them over1 so that perhaps the part of the egg that was in contact with the nest one day1 will be in contact with the hen's body the next day4 ,or1 in other words1 she turns it half way around4 ,these are all peculiarities that we have to imitate in artificial incubation1 if we would be successful4 ,now that we have seen the process of the natural method of incubation1 let us see how the ingenuity of man has successfully imitated the mother hen1 and made possible the hatching of a far greater number of chicks than the hen can naturally hatch4 ,in the first place1 there are a great many incubators on the market1 some being made to sell1 and others being made to use4 ,how shall we determine the make to buy8 ,that is not the easiest question in the world1 if one has had no previous experience with incubators4 ,do not necessarily buy the incubator that is advertised the most4 ,sometimes incubator companies have to advertise extensively to do a sufficient volume of business4 ,the safest way to choose an incubator1 if you really intend to purchase one1 is to get the advice of some one who is using one1 and has had success with the machine that he has used4 ,some of the cheaper makes have the trouble of too varying a temperature1 especially during the night4 ,if one has to arise five or six times a night for three weeks to regulate the lamp to maintain a constant temperature1 then the incubator is more bother than it is worth4 ,therefore1 find out the makes of incubators that are giving satisfaction in your own community1 if you are intending to purchase one1 and then send for one of a similar make4 ,however1 if you have not enough eggs to warrant purchasing one1 then try to arrange with someone to loan you one1 or to put your eggs in with some of theirs1 so as to eliminate this expense4 ,there are in general two types of incubators1 the hot water and the hot air1 the latter being quite the more popular of the two4 ,there are several different sizes of incubators1 ranging from a fifty egg capacity up to a thousand egg capacity machine4 ,an incubator with a hundred egg capacity is usually sufficiently large enough for the small poultry keeper4 ,by running three or four hatches during the same season1 a good number of chicks can be hatched4 ,there are a few requirements that must be fulfilled to realize the best results from an incubator4 ,first and foremost1 always follow the instructions that come with the incubator4 ,the manufacturers of the incubator know more about their incubator than you do4 ,another thing that should be borne in mind is that you must not expect every egg that is placed in the incubator to produce a chick4 ,a very good hatch is about #ge per cent4 ,of course1 this varies considerably1 ranging all the way from nothing to as high as sometimes #ajj per cent4 ,usually one can reasonably expect as high as a #fj per cent hatch1 at least1 and very often it goes considerably higher1 according to the conditions under which it is run4 ,moisture is a prime essential for the proper running of an incubator1 and this should be provided for4 ,if possible1 arrange to run the incubator in a cellar1 or some damp place4 ,this can be aided1 by sprinkling water on the floor1 etc4 ,care must be exercised in running the incubator that fire is guarded against1 and some insurance companies make special provisions in their policies for such occasions1 and make a slightly higher charge for their policies1 because of the danger4 ,another essential condition for a successful hatch with the incubator is proper ventilation4 ,most machines are provided with something for the admission of fresh air4 ,it is also necessary that the room containing the incubator be aired frequently to admit fresh air1 but not in such a manner that the eggs will become chilled1 or that too much air will be admitted so as to carry off the moisture4 ,most incubators carry proper directions so as to provide against this danger4 ,the third condition necessary for proper running of the incubator is the maintenance of a constant temperature4 ,it is usually advisable to have the temperature about #ajb degrees ,f4 the first week1 #ajc degrees the second week1 and #ajd degrees the third week4 ,any serious deviation from #ajc degrees will result in a poor hatch4 ,now1 then we will conclude this chapter with a few pointers on running the incubator during the hatching period4 ,it is always well to run the incubator a day or two empty1 so as to get the idea of how to best maintain the required temperature4 ,clean the lamp thoroughly before running1 and then during the hatch1 always tend to the lamp after the eggs have been turned1 and never before1 because if the hands are smeared with kerosene1 some of this is bound to be left on the shells1 which will result in a poor hatch4 ,do not allow the lamp to be in a draft1 and clean the wick every day1 so as to prevent the lamp from smoking4 ,after the first few days1 the eggs should be turned at least once a day1 and even better1 twice a day4 ,this is to imitate the mother hen1 who does this on the nest4 ,if the eggs are not turned1 then the embryo of the chick will adhere to the shell of the egg1 and either die1 or be crippled beyond hope4 ,we must imitate the mother hen again in the artificial incubation of chicks1 in regard to cooling4 ,we saw in the previous chapter1 how the hen leaves her nest occasionally to take food and water1 with no ill effects on the hatch4 ,likewise we must cool the eggs in the incubator4 ,this can usually best be accomplished while turning the eggs4 ,five or ten minutes a day are usually sufficient for the proper cooling1 unless it is near the end of the hatch1 when twenty or thirty minutes can be used for this purpose with safety4 ,on the seventh and the fourteenth day1 it is a good plan to test the eggs in the incubator1 so that the infertile eggs may be removed4 ,this is done by a process known as candling4 ,hold each egg up in front of a light and note the appearance of the interior of the egg4 ,this can be done by making a hole in a box1 that will fit over a light or lamp1 and then holding the eggs up to the light1 showing through the hole1 which should be in line with the flame4 ,if the egg appears clear1 free from any dark spots1 then the egg can be taken out of the incubator1 as it is not fertile1 and will not hatch4 ,however1 if the egg shows a dark spot1 about the size of a bean1 and you can detect small blood vessels running from it1 then you may be assured that the egg is coming along in good shape1 and will hatch out in due time4 ,with these points well in mind1 one will have little difficulty in properly running an incubator1 providing he has a reliable machine to begin with4 ,of the matters considered in this chapter1 probably the most important factor of all is the constant maintenance of a uniform temperature4 ,now1 then1 let us consider that the chicks are pipping the shells and are ready to start out in life4 ,we will therefore consider the care of the chicks in the next chapter1 until they are able to care for themselves4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,,brooding ,whether we hatched the eggs by means of an incubator1 or bought the day-old chicks1 if we have no mother hen to care for the chicks after they are hatched1 we must take care of them ourselves4 ,this is called the brooding period4 ,unless the hatch is quite late1 which1 by the way1 is not desirable1 we will have to arrange to supply some cheap1 simple form of artificial heat1 to prevent the young chickens from getting chilled4 ,this is accomplished in several different ways1 but we will only discuss the more common ways here4 ,there are several different makes of readymade brooders on the market1 but one can in a few hours spare time1 construct a brooder that will answer the purpose4 ,the chief part of the brooder is the source of heat4 ,usually these heaters can be bought for a few dollars1 and placed in a good box supplied with a little litter on the bottom4 ,a common arrangement with brooder equipments is to have two compartments1 one where a hover is placed1 and the rest of the brooder constituting a run for the chicks4 ,the two compartments are usually partitioned off from each other1 allowing just enough room at the bottom of the partition to allow the chicks to pass from one compartment to the other4 ,in the hover compartment is placed the heater1 and a metal canopy1 so that the heat will be held down close to the floor1 where the chicks are located4 ,at first1 the chicks should be confined to this hover entirely1 because they are liable to get lost if they wander away from the hover1 and consequently die from chilling4 ,the temperature of the hover compartment during the first week should be about #if degrees ,f41 and each succeeding week it should be lowered by at least two degrees4 ,this can be done by controlling the lamp1 or what ever heater is used1 or by gradually raising or lowering the canopy over the chicks4 ,this method gradually toughens the chicks up1 so that they can soon be let out doors4 ,after the first week or so1 they should be encouraged to get out into the other compartment for exercise1 as this will aid in making them hardy4 ,after the first few weeks of the life of the chicks are past1 they will need less care and attention4 ,these first few weeks are the critical weeks of the bird's life4 ,after the chicks get accustomed to the temperature out in the run of the brooder1 it is advisable to cut a small hole at the run end of the brooder box1 so that on pleasant days they can run outside on the ground around the brooder4 ,in this case1 however1 they must not be allowed to run very far at first1 and only for a short while until they gradually become accustomed to the practice4 ,another important consideration in raising the young chick to maturity is the matter of food4 ,probably no other thing is responsible for such a high mortality in young chicks1 as is improper feeding4 ,we have learned in a previous chapter that it is exceedingly dangerous to feed the chick anything in the line of food for the first two days of its life4 ,many people are afraid the chicks will die if not fed immediately after hatching1 and hasten to feed the chick all that it will eat4 ,unless the chick is endowed with a wonderful digestive system1 it will succumb to this over-feeding through digestive disorders4 ,it is permissible to put a little grit before the chick at this time1 because the chick has no teeth1 and never will have1 so they eat the grit1 and this grit passes down to the gizzard1 which grinds the food in place of grinding with the teeth1 as with other animals4 ,fresh water is also good for the chick during this period1 as the water quenches their thirst1 and makes them livelier4 ,towards the end of the second day1 it is well to feed the chick a little sour skim milk1 or buttermilk4 ,sour milk is superior to the sweet milk for two reasons4 ,first1 the sour skim milk has bacteria that aid in digestion1 and secondly1 it will be found that it will be hard to keep the milk sweet all the time1 and by feeding sweet milk part of the time1 and then letting it become sour1 digestive troubles are liable to develop4 ,hence1 by having it sour all the time1 no danger from this source will be experienced4 ,now1 we are ready to consider what kind of grain we shall feed the chick4 ,on the third day we can start to feed a little grain4 ,what is known as pinhead oatmeal is very good to start the young chick out on4 ,some feed hard boiled eggs and dried bread for the first feeding with good results4 ,it is important to note that only enough of this first solid food should be fed that they can clean up in a short time4 ,keep them hungry1 and remember that it is much safer to under feed than to over feed4 ,for the next week1 or so1 a scratch ration1 composed of cracked corn1 pinhead oatmeal1 cracked wheat1 together with a little grit1 and finely ground oyster shells can be fed4 ,this can be fed in the litter1 so that the chicks have to exercise to get it4 ,in fact1 that is just what we mean by a scratching ration2 one composed of whole or cracked grains1 mixed in with the litter1 so that the chicks will have to scratch for their feed1 and thereby obtain the exercise necessary to their health4 ,if a little green feed of any kind can be added1 so much the better4 ,green grass is excellent to throw into the chicks4 ,after two weeks or more of this kind of feed1 it is well to supplement this ration with a dry mash4 ,a dry mash is a feed composed of ground feeds1 that require no work on the part of the bird to grind4 ,feeds like wheat bran1 ground oats1 corn meal1 etc41 are good examples of such feeds4 ,wheat bran is especially well liked by these young birds1 and it is recommended that they be allowed to have this as a large part of their dry mash4 ,this feed should not be fed in the litter1 as the cracked grains1 but placed in some such container as a pan1 or better still1 in a regular feed hopper4 ,it can readily be seen that if this finely ground grain was scattered in the litter1 it would be largely lost and wasted4 ,also1 if put in a pan1 the pan must be low enough to be accessible to the birds1 and covered over in such a manner that the chicks will not get in and walk around in it4 ,a homemade hopper can be easily built1 so that the chicks can just get their heads in1 and no more4 ,do not forget that the sour skim milk or buttermilk must be fed all this time4 ,in fact1 this part of the feed should be fed right through the bird's life1 as it supplies the animal protein1 which is so necessary to the proper development of the bird's growth4 ,now1 then1 just a few more words in closing this chapter on brooding4 ,we should aim to toughen the birds up as quickly as possible1 so that when they are about two months old1 no artificial heat will be necessary1 and if the birds are of a late hatch1 this can be accomplished much sooner4 ,encourage them to get out of doors as quickly as possible1 and to get green feed4 ,a very serious cause of death among young chickens is from disease4 ,white diarrhoea is probably one of the most common of these diseases1 and unfortunately1 one of the most fatal4 ,if the droppings are of a white1 watery nature1 with an offensive odor1 you may well believe that this disease is present1 and the thing to do is to get the birds thus affected out of the way at once1 and disinfect with some good disinfectant4 ,however1 if the precautions are taken that are set forth in this booklet1 no danger of this dreaded disease can be anticipated4 ,now that we have got the chicks along through the brooding period1 let us next consider just how we shall raise these chicks to maturity1 so as to get them ready to lay eggs1 or to make a good meat carcass4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,,rearing ,,chicks ,,to ,,maturity4 ,one of the chief things to remember in raising young chicks to maturity is that we must keep them growing at all times4 ,a check in their growth will retard their growth severely1 and this must be avoided by the one that wants his chicks to get into winter laying condition before the cold weather comes4 ,we will now consider a few important factors that are necessary to bring our chicks along to rapid growth4 ,of course1 where free1 unrestricted range is possible1 the chicks will progress faster than when cooped up in a small yard4 ,if no free range is possible1 it will be found advantageous to at least let the chicks run about the yard of the lot4 ,in this manner1 they can pick up considerable food in the shape of worms1 insects1 etc41 that will furnish valuable growing food for them4 ,let me repeat again the necessity of having milk in some form as a constituent of the chicks' food4 ,any food that comes from an animal1 whether it be milk or a part of the animal itself1 is highly essential to the growth of the chick4 ,such foods contain an element known as vitamines1 which scientists have recently discovered contribute greatly to the growth and upkeep of a growing animal4 ,vitamines are also found to some extent in green feeds1 such as carrots1 cabbages1 mangoes1 etc4 ,even well cured alfalfa hay contains this important element4 ,it is quite obvious1 therefore1 that if the chicks are out roaming around the yard or range1 they not only secure the exercise that is necessary for their proper development1 but they also pick up insects1 as has been mentioned1 and considerable green feed1 such as grass1 weeds1 and various other odds and ends4 ,if a fair sized lot or range is to be had1 then it will be found a great aid to make a little house for the chicks to live in during the nights on the range1 although care must be exercised that they be protected from enemies1 such as rats1 crows1 skunks1 weasels1 owls1 etc4 ,such a house need not be expensive at all if it be made out of an old packing box that will protect the chicks from rain and enemies4 ,another quite essential feature for the promotion of the maximum growth of the chicks during the warm summer months is the provision for shade4 ,if there are some trees about the yard or range1 this will answer the purpose satisfactorily1 but if there are no trees where the chicks roam1 then some artificial shade is advised4 ,some people plant corn for this purpose1 allowing the chicks to range among the corn plants when the corn has grown sufficiently high4 ,the chicks will not harm the corn1 so two ends can be accomplished by this means4 ,others provide this shade by gathering old brush together and making an artificial shade in this manner4 ,during the hot days of summer1 the chicks will suffer from the heat to a marked degree if exposed to the hot rays of the sun4 ,an ideal method used on many farms is to place the chicks in the orchard1 where there is an orchard1 and let the chicks roam in the shade of the orchard trees4 ,where birds are necessarily confined to a small yard1 one method that has been worked out satisfactorily1 is to fence the yard off into two or more divisions1 and to plow up the land4 ,then various crops can be sown at different intervals1 so that when one range1 or division1 is consumed by the chicks1 they can be turned into another division where the forage crop is up and ready to be consumed4 ,as soon as the chicks are turned out of the first lot1 this lot can be immediately plowed up again1 and some more seeds planted1 so that this range will be ready for the chicks when the second lot furnishes no more nourishment for them4 ,it might be added here that many town flocks of full grown birds are maintained1 by this very system1 and it has worked out very nicely4 ,such grains as buckwheat1 rye1 oats1 peas1 and soy beans are all excellent crops to sow in this manner1 using oats and peas for the first crop1 because they mature quicker than the other crops mentioned4 ,if the chicks have access to a fair amount of range they will not need a great deal of grain as a ration4 ,however1 it is always advisable to feed some grains to keep the birds continually growing as fast as possible4 ,it has been proved conclusively that the first gains made by the growing chicks are the cheapest1 in regard to the cost of feed1 so let us keep this in mind during the time when we have them on range4 ,to accomplish this end1 it is well to have a dry mash of the kind of grains that are fairly rich in the substance called protein always available in the hopper4 ,the reason for this need of protein feed is simply that the growing bird uses this element largely in the growth of its body4 ,protein goes to make up the bony framework of the body1 and the muscles1 tendons1 etc4 ,therefore1 feeds containing protein1 or a fair amount of it at least1 should be ground up1 and kept before the birds4 ,oats1 bran1 or middlings1 wheat and barley1 are all fairly rich in protein1 and some of these feeds1 in a finely ground condition1 should be included4 ,it is also well to add some corn meal1 although this feed is not high in protein1 it supplies a great amount of energy for the bird to move around with4 ,as soon as the birds are old enough commence to feed cracked grains4 ,as has been said in a previous chapter1 the bird has no teeth1 so must rely upon grit to grind this feed in the gizzard4 ,therefore1 unless the birds have a wide range1 this grit must be artificially supplied4 ,then the birds can help themselves to their needs1 and suffer no digestive troubles4 ,fresh water must be before the birds at all times1 and if no natural source is available1 such as a running stream or brook1 then fresh water must be placed in some sanitary container out in the yard or range4 ,from four to six months from the time the chick is hatched1 it should be ready to start laying eggs4 ,the chick first has to get its growth and maturity1 and then there is an apparent resting period for a few weeks1 to allow the organs of the bird to get ready for egg production4 ,we will next consider how we shall feed these birds1 granting that we now have them ready to produce the eggs4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,,feeding ,,for ,,egg ,,production ,as has been said in an earlier chapter1 to get the maximum egg production1 three things are essential4 ,they are3 good foundation stock1 proper housing1 and proper feeding4 ,we may have the best chicken house in the world1 and the highest priced stock obtainable1 but if we do not feed our birds the right kind of food1 all our other efforts are in vain4 ,let us consider first a few facts concerning the composition of the egg1 and then we will be able to understand more intelligently why we should feed the laying bird these certain feeds4 ,about #ad per cent of the composition of the egg is protein1 #aj per cent fat1 and the remainder1 except the shell1 is water4 ,now it must be remembered that the ordinary protein supply of most food materials is relatively low4 ,corn contains about #g per cent digestible protein1 oats and barley about #i per cent1 and bran about #ab per cent4 ,the roughages are considerably lower1 while green feeds carry about one or two per cent protein4 ,from this we can get an idea about the necessity of watching the feeding to the extent that this valuable constituent is sufficiently supplied4 ,furthermore1 the hen that is producing these eggs needs a fair amount of this protein for further growth and body upkeep4 ,another point worth remembering is the fact that the bird1 or any other animal1 through natural instinct1 always sees to it that the first requirement1 that of bodily growth and upkeep are maintained first with the food they are given1 so that to get the most from the birds1 let us not hold them down to just a maintenance ration1 but give them enough in addition so that they can not only maintain their body requirements properly1 but also have enough food material to yield a product4 ,the ration for the laying hen should consist of the two forms of grain2 first1 the whole or cracked grains that comprise the scratch ration1 and which should always be thrown in the litter1 so that they will have to exercise to get it1 and second1 the dry mash1 or a mixture of various grains that are ground up and fed in hoppers4 ,as has been stated before1 this grinding of the feed is simply to make it easily digestible4 ,furthermore1 such finely ground grains usually contain a higher percentage of protein than the other grains4 ,by this is meant that feeds like bran1 oilmeal1 etc41 are quite a bit higher in protein than are grains like corn1 wheat1 barley1 etc4 ,the next important feed requirement for the laying hen should be a mineral feed of some kind4 ,with many farm and city flocks this important consideration is entirely ignored4 ,many times the reason for poor egg production rests solely in the lack of proper mineral foods4 ,when it is considered that about #ab percent of the entire egg is composed of shell material1 it can readily be seen that the feeding of this material is important1 and worthy of attention4 ,we can give the laying bird all the rich feeds that we can buy1 but if we withhold from her the material that goes to form the shell1 then the bird will be unable to lay her eggs because she has no shell to cover the egg4 ,there are different sources of mineral food1 but all authorities are agreed that oyster shells form the most economical source of shell material4 ,these oyster shells can be bought at grocery stores1 or poultry supply houses4 ,this material should be placed in a box or1 better still1 a hopper1 where it will be accessible to the birds at all times4 ,clam shells1 lime rock grit1 and dry bone in small sizes are other sources of mineral matter1 and possibly even better results can be obtained by adding a small quantity of these other feeds to the oyster shells1 but plan to have oyster shells as the basis of the mineral supply4 ,charcoal is sometimes fed to chickens with good results4 ,some birds eat this1 while others will not4 ,it is claimed that charcoal aids in regulating the digestive system of the fowl4 ,one can try this out to satisfy his own ideas in this regard4 ,animal feed is the next class of feeds that we will consider in the feeding of our laying flock4 ,it is the testimony of poultrymen that when they hang up a fresh piece of meat in the poultry house1 such as a part of a calf1 an old horse1 rabbit1 or any other such carcass1 the birds always respond with a much higher yield in egg production4 ,this simply reinforces the statement made in a previous chapter1 that animal protein of some kind is needed by the birds if they are to do their best4 ,if meat is supplied1 care must be exercised that it does not spoil before it is consumed4 ,it is better to put in small pieces at a time1 so that the birds will eat it up quickly4 ,if this meat can be run through a grinder of some kind1 it will be eaten much more readily than if it has to be torn to pieces by the birds4 ,milk of some kind is also an animal protein1 as has been repeated here several times4 ,meat meal or tankage contains a high percentage of protein1 and as this is an animal product1 it is an economical feed4 ,water is our last class of feeds for the laying hen4 ,this can be supplied in two ways4 ,the first way is from the water direct1 placed in some kind of a pan that is covered so that the birds can not soil the water1 by perching on the edge of the pan1 etc4 ,fresh water should be before the birds at all times1 as we have just learned a few pages back that about #fe per cent of the egg is composed of water4 ,besides this1 the birds need water for their body requirements4 ,in the winter when the birds spend practically all of their time in the poultry house1 and can not have the opportunity of picking up grass1 and other green feeds1 we can supply water to them in the form of some kind of green feeds1 such as sprouted oats1 cabbages1 mangoes1 or any other vegetables to be had4 ,all these feeds are to be recommended highly1 as they not only are composed largely of water1 but add bulk to the ration1 and aid in keeping the bird laxative4 ,sprouted oats can be raised in shallow pans1 and given to the birds in small quantities at a time4 ,it is usually advisable to have several pans of sprouting oats say1 for instance1 one for every day in the week1 so that a fresh supply can be given to the birds every morning4 ,nearly every supply house has patent oat sprouters to sell at reasonable prices4 ,cabbages and mangoes are also fed extensively to the laying birds during the winter months1 but provision must be made before hand to raise them in the summer1 and to properly store them in the fall1 so that they will be fresh when taken out of storage for feeding4 ,one very good way to do this is to pile them together in a basement and cover them with sand4 ,let us next consider a few practical grain rations1 that have been tried out by successful poultry men4 ,these rations are always classified as scratch rations and dry mash rations4 ,one very good ration is as follows3 ,scratch ,feed1 #c parts cracked corn1 #a part wheat1 #a part oats1 #a part barley4 ,dry mash1 #a part bran1 #a part middlings1 #a part corn meal1 #a part meat scraps or tankage4 ,another very good practical ration is composed as follows3 ,scratch feed1 #c parts corn1 #a part oats1 and #a part barley4 ,dry mash1 one part each of bran1 middlings1 ground corn1 ground oats and meat scraps4 ,these feeds should always be measured by weight1 and not by bulk4 ,now1 then1 just a few words in regard to the feeding of these grains4 ,always send the birds to roost with full crops4 ,this is especially important during cold weather4 ,it is much better if they be allowed to fill up on scratch grain rather than dry mash4 ,the scratch ration is more bulky than the mash feed1 and helps in keeping the bird warm4 ,in fact1 many successful poultry men close the hopper of their dry mash ration during the afternoon1 and thus make the birds take the scratch feed in the litter1 thereby encouraging the birds to obtain exercise1 also4 ,we will close this chapter with a brief discussion on a recent development in the system of feeding birds4 ,this is in regard to the introduction of artificial light4 ,this practice has successfully passed beyond the 8fad0 stage and is now being used by successful poultry men all over the country4 ,by supplying this extra light1 the working day is thereby lengthened to the extent that the light is prolonged1 and consequently1 gives the bird a day similar to a summer day in length4 ,the birds1 by having this extra period of light1 work just that much longer1 and as a result1 they are able to make more eggs4 ,everywhere this system has been given a trial1 it has been found a paying proposition4 ,one very common method in supplying this light is by connecting the alarm clock to the electric lighting system and setting the alarm at a period around four or five o'clock in the morning4 ,this throws on the light in the chicken house1 and then when the owner arises in the morning1 he can go out and turn out the lights if it is light enough to do so by that time4 ,thus we have considered the main points in feeding for egg production4 ,while we have some of these important feeding principles still fresh in our mind1 let us in the next chapter consider feeding birds for their flesh1 because one very important part of the poultry business lies in the feeding of birds for meat4 ,in the ordinary flock of birds1 there are always some that we want to dispose of1 such as the male birds and the culls of the females4 ,if we know how to fatten these1 we will be that much better off financially4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,,feeding ,,for ,,meat ,,production ,the primary object in feeding birds for the market is to get them well covered with flesh1 so that they will be plump all over4 ,it is the difference in the weight of the bony skeleton and the weight of the well filled out carcass that determines the amount of edible meat on the bird4 ,hence our object in this process is to put on as much surplus flesh as we can4 ,usually there are three classes of birds that are put on the market for meat purposes4 ,they are roasters1 broilers1 and old hens4 ,roasting chickens are very common on the market1 and the object is large size with a tender carcass4 ,these can be either pullets or cockerels1 or capons4 ,they are often put on the market during the late fall or early winter1 and bring the highest prices at that time4 ,broilers are birds about three or four months old1 forced along to a rapid growth1 but still possessing tender flesh4 ,this offers an excellent way of disposing of the male birds1 since usually the sex of the young birds can be distinguished at about two months of age4 ,old hens constitute the third division of the meat classes placed upon the market1 and are generally composed of those birds that are through laying1 or the ones that have been found to be unprofitable4 ,their meat is usually much tougher than the first two mentioned classes1 and consequently used in city restaurants for meat pies1 etc4 ,in fattening birds for the market1 a somewhat different procedure is followed than in feeding for egg production4 ,we found that in feeding for egg production we encouraged the birds in every way possible to take all the exercise that they could get4 ,we do just the opposite in putting flesh on the birds4 ,we restrict their exercise as much as possible1 and pen them up in small quarters so that their feed largely goes to nothing but putting flesh on their bodies4 ,it can easily be seen that when birds are roaming around1 exercising more or less all day long1 that there is little chance for them to get very fat4 ,now as to the nature of the feed for fattening these birds4 ,we will still need some protein feeds1 but not as much as in the case of feeding for eggs4 ,however1 we will need feeds which are quite rich in carbohydrates and fat4 ,these are easily obtained and are relatively cheap4 ,corn is an excellent ration for this purpose4 ,since the birds are confined to small pens1 and exercise restricted1 it becomes evident that digestion becomes an important factor here4 ,therefore1 it is advisable to have plenty of grit before the birds at all times1 so that their food will be properly ground4 ,we must not get the idea1 just because we are feeding for flesh1 that the birds should be stuffed to their limit with feed4 ,to do so1 would be to have a lot of the birds off feed1 and consequently we would be worse off than not to feed them enough4 ,it is best to plan to feed them about three times a day1 and to feed them all that they will cleanup in a certain length of time1 as from twenty minutes to half an hour4 ,some are successful in feeding only twice a day1 instead of three times a day4 ,corn is usually the basis of fattening rations and should always have a prominent place in the ration4 ,here again1 milk in some form is excellent to supply some of the protein that is needed4 ,corn must be supplemented by other grains1 such as oats1 barley or middlings1 provided they are in a finely ground condition4 ,some feeders follow the plan of feeding part of these grains in the form of a wet mash1 using the skim milk to moisten the mash1 but when this is done1 care must be exercised in seeing that the mash is cleaned up at every feeding1 otherwise the trough will become mouldy1 with bad results to the birds4 ,there has come into use within recent years a method of fattening birds by what is known as crate fattening4 ,this is practiced considerably by some of the big packing companies4 ,the birds are bought up from the surrounding territory and brought into the central fattening station4 ,they are then placed in small pens1 or batteries1 as they are called1 and fed a ration composed largely of skim milk and corn meal1 with a few other feeds added1 such as red dog flour1 bran1 etc4 ,this is mixed into a thin1 pasty feed1 and fed the birds from a trough running along in front of the pens4 ,they are fed this way for a period of two weeks or more1 and are then taken out1 dressed1 and sold to the big city markets as milk fed chickens1 and always bring several cents a pound more on the market than other poultry1 because of the tenderness of the flesh4 ,in this process1 even greater care must be exercised in watching the feeding of the birds1 and only feed that they will cleanup in about fifteen or twenty minutes4 ,crate feeding has appealed to many town lot poultry men1 who have bought up culls of the neighboring territory1 put them in small crates or pens1 and fed them this milk feed for a few weeks and then marketed them1 securing the top prices on the market4 ,we have now discussed the most important items connected with the feeding of the birds for various purposes4 ,let us now examine the living quarters of the birds1 and see if we can improve the housing conditions in which the birds live during the winter months4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,,common ,,faults ,,of ,,poultry ,,houses ,if you were to take a trip through the surrounding country1 with the intention of inspecting the living quarters of farm poultry1 in general1 you would discover some of the most wretched houses imaginable4 ,all of our intelligent feeding would be of little use if we penned our chickens up in a coop with little sunlight1 poor ventilation1 cold1 damp floors1 drafty sides1 and foul1 damp air4 ,it doesn't cost any more to build a poultry house with correct principles involved1 than it does to build one that lacks these essential features4 ,the birds care very little about the appearance of the house4 ,they want fresh dry air1 freedom from drafts1 a warm floor1 and plenty of sunshine4 ,one of the most common faults with most poultry houses is the matter of ventilation4 ,when poultry raising was first looked upon as a promising business1 many men erected houses containing a large proportion of glass4 ,it was thought that the sunshine was the only necessary feature for the birds under winter conditions1 and they made their chicken houses veritable hot houses4 ,but the results were not as had been anticipated4 ,it was found that while the houses were fairly warm in the day time1 they cooled off considerable at night1 and poor results were obtained from this wide range between the day temperature and the night temperature4 ,then another step was taken by these pioneers4 ,they decided to heat their houses artificially4 ,but even this system did not bring forth the big yield of eggs that had been hoped for4 ,in all this expensive procedure1 a very important element had been overlooked1 and that was the matter of fresh air4 ,about twenty years ago1 there was devised a poultry house that was a radical departure from this previous type of house4 ,it was called the open front house1 and gave surprisingly good results1 where all previous types had failed1 as regards egg production4 ,this house was constructed briefly as follows3 ,it was of the shed roof type2 that is1 had just one slant in the roof1 the highest pitch being in front1 and the lowest pitch in the rear4 ,it had plenty of window light in the front side1 about half of the south side1 or front1 being devoted to windows4 ,the rest of the front was left open1 save for a thin muslin curtain to cover the open space during bad weather4 ,these curtains were tacked to wooden frames1 and swung on hinges1 so that they could be swung in to cover the open space at will4 ,the most remarkable thing about the system was that the hens began to lay eggs1 when proper feeding was obtained4 ,later1 this led to the conclusion1 now generally accepted1 that the birds can stand considerable cold1 providing it is not a damp cold1 and that the temperature of the house is considerably more uniform between night and day than was the case with the glass house4 ,as a result many poultrymen who are making money with poultry use some such system as the open front house with various changes4 ,they have found that fresh air is an absolute requirement to get the best results4 ,but this matter brought out a few more interesting facts4 ,it was found that dampness was a big drawback to egg production in cold weather4 ,if the damp foul air1 breathed out by the chickens1 could not escape from the poultry building1 the chickens did not have the health and vigor that they did in well ventilated houses4 ,consequently1 the curtain helped considerably in allowing the fresh air to come in1 and for the foul air to go out4 ,the damp air1 being heavily laden with moisture1 settled to the bottom of the house1 where the birds scratch1 and unless the curtains extend fairly well down near the bottom of the house1 the damp air has not a very good chance to escape1 and consequently1 there will be more or less moisture even with this type of house1 if the damp air has no chance to escape4 ,another common fault with a great many poultry buildings is that they are drafty4 ,the walls should all be air tight1 except the south wall1 or front1 as has been mentioned4 ,if there is a draft in the house the birds will contract a cold1 and will take a prolonged vacation from their job of laying eggs4 ,it is not uncommon to find a crack in the wall1 just behind the perches of the house1 and when we consider that in such houses the birds stay all night in a direct draft1 it is little wonder that they appear so unhealthy4 ,there are a few other common faults that we will consider before bringing this chapter to a close4 ,it is often found that there are too many birds cramped into a small house4 ,it is a good plan to allow at least four square feet of floor space for each bird that you winter4 ,for instance1 if we were planning on having one hundred birds this winter1 we could have a house built twenty-five feet long1 and sixteen feet deep4 ,multiplying these two figures1 gives us four hundred square feet4 ,dividing this product by four1 gives us allowance for one hundred birds4 ,then1 lastly1 the floor1 itself4 ,too often the floor is cold4 ,if a cement floor1 we should cover it with about six or eight inches of good1 clean1 dry litter4 ,even if made of wood1 a good substantial litter should be maintained4 ,the best litter is probably of straw1 but peat moss is fast gaining favor at present1 where straw is not obtainable4 ,with these few objections to guard against1 let us next discuss just how we shall go about constructing a poultry house that will overcome the faults mentioned4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,,housing ,,poultry ,,for ,,profit4 ,in discussing plans for a modern poultry house1 let it be mentioned at the outset that this does not necessarily mean that our modern house will be expensive1 any more than the one that is built on old ideas4 ,in fact1 many of the older houses were much more expensive than the modern houses of today4 ,as long as the poultry building includes the necessary principles for the birds' well-being1 and this can be accomplished with little added expense1 that is all that is necessary4 ,in commenting upon the common faults of most poultry houses in the previous chapter1 we found that they generally lack one1 or all of such items as ventilation1 dryness1 sunlight1 adequate floor space1 protection from rats1 protection from extremes of temperature1 and simplicity of design4 ,in arranging for a better house for our birds1 let us plan to keep these factors in mind1 so as to get the most from our birds4 ,whether we are to build a new poultry house1 or to remodel an old one1 we can design it so that all of these factors will be in evidence4 ,if we have an old poultry house1 or if we can buy cheaply an old poultry coop1 that has fairly good lumber in it1 we can probably do the remodeling somewhat cheaper than if we have to buy all new lumber4 ,if we do purchase all new lumber1 it is not advisable to get cheap lumber1 but buy the first grade1 because it is necessary that the walls of the house be air tight1 and this is seldom possible with cheap lumber4 ,we will first consider briefly the possibilities of remodeling an old poultry house4 ,probably the first thing that we will do is to cut some openings in the front of the house for windows and curtains4 ,from one-half to two-thirds of the front should be devoted to window lights4 ,the remainder should be left for the muslin curtains to allow for fresh air to enter1 and for foul air to pass out4 ,these should not be cut up too high1 but start at least a foot below the roof1 and have the window lights extend at least half way down the front of the house4 ,the curtains should extend quite a bit further down to the bottom of the house1 to allow the foul air sufficient opportunity to escape4 ,we should next examine the other walls and roof to make sure that they are not drafty1 nor leak water4 ,usually these walls can be patched up with other boards1 or heavy roofing paper1 so that no draft is possible4 ,in northern climates1 where weather below zero is common1 best results will be obtained by having two thicknesses of walls1 to protect against cold nights4 ,roofing paper is excellent to put between the two walls1 or even on the outside to aid in this matter4 ,if the roof leaks1 it might be advisable to re-shingle part of it1 and here again roofing paper helps in making it weather tight4 ,we must next examine the floor4 ,if a wooden floor1 then it is advisable to raise the house up from the ground about six inches1 supporting it with posts4 ,some people follow the plan of placing old tin pans or plates upside down at the top of these posts and then setting the house on1 thereby eliminating the danger of rats1 as the rats cannot climb over the tin pans4 ,if the house is to be a permanent structure it will be found best to lay a concrete floor1 as this floor will last for all time1 and will not need repairing4 ,such a floor is rat proof1 but must be covered with a good litter4 ,if a new house is to be constructed1 then it will be best to follow the principles laid down for a remodeled house to the extent of the open front1 weather tight walls and roof1 good floor1 and dry living conditions4 ,wood is the most popular material that is used in building chicken houses4 ,generally1 #b by #ds placed about two feet apart are used for studding4 ,matched lumber or rough lumber aided by battens or roofing paper compose the walls1 this making them free from drafts4 ,the matched lumber is generally placed on the studding horizontally4 ,the lumber should be dry and free from knot holes1 and well nailed together4 ,for the roof1 shingles can be used1 or some of the prepared roofing paper on the market now has given good results4 ,for quite flat roofs1 two or three ply roofing paper is preferred to the shingles4 ,we will now discuss the common types of poultry houses4 ,the most popular type and the cheapest1 is the shed roof house4 ,this house is usually about eight feet high in front1 slanting gradually to the rear to a height of about five feet4 ,it just has one slant1 and1 as has been said1 is cheaper to build than other types of houses4 ,it is also much easier to keep warm in the winter1 because of the low roof1 which means less space has to be heated by the birds4 ,instead of curtain front houses in such a type of poultry house1 many poultry men are using bafflers to let in the air4 ,these bafflers are similar to a blind used to shade living houses in some parts of the country4 ,they are composed of slats less than an inch apart1 and placed in a slanting position1 rather than vertical or horizontal4 ,the gable roof house is another popular type4 ,this differs from the shed roof type of house in that its roof comes to a peak1 with two pitches1 such as most modern bungalow dwelling houses have4 ,this system leaves a larger space at the top of the house1 and is not as warm as the shed roof type4 ,it also costs more to build4 ,however1 it possesses the advantage of allowing a straw loft to be placed at the top of the house1 which is an excellent way to get rid of excess moisture1 when it can be expelled no other way4 ,the straw has the power to absorb the excess moisture during the winter1 but should be removed in the spring1 as it furnishes an excellent hiding place for mites1 an insect that we will discuss more thoroughly in a later chapter4 ,the half monitor type is not so popular as the two types already named1 and costs considerably more than either of the two previous types discussed4 ,this type of house has an arrangement similar to two shed roof houses1 facing each other1 the rear house being somewhat higher than the front house4 ,of course1 such houses have their advantages1 but for the one who would start with moderation in the poultry business1 the shed roof1 or the gable roof type will be far more attractive4 ,we have discussed the types of houses in this chapter4 ,the fixtures1 or chicken furniture1 has so far been omitted4 ,let us go inside of our modern chicken house now1 and see what is needed in the line of equipment to complete our efficient egg production4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,,interior ,,fixtures ,,for ,,the ,,laying ,,houses ,there are certain devices that save a great deal of labor for the poultry man1 and also give the birds a more contented atmosphere4 ,we will start in with the floor4 ,i want to repeat here1 briefly1 what has already been said in regard to the litter on the floor of the house4 ,birds with cold feet cannot be healthy4 ,if the floor is covered with a six-inch litter of straw1 or shavings1 the floor will be warm1 and they can be given a scratching ration that will make them exercise for their food4 ,by all means do not fail to have a good litter of some kind on the floor during the late fall and winter months4 ,the birds are rather peculiar creatures1 when it comes to retiring for the night4 ,they do not seek a place to lay down1 but they look for something that will resemble a limb of a tree1 where they can perch during the night4 ,man has therefore supplied something along this line1 by erecting round poles1 made of wood1 so that the birds will have a convenient place to rest for the night4 ,a few precautions must be guarded against here1 however1 as very few poultry men have given their birds suitable perches yet4 ,the perches should be round1 about two inches in diameter1 and erected on the same level with each other4 ,too many perches are arranged in a ladder formation1 having the rear perch the highest1 and the front perch the lowest4 ,when the birds get ready to go to roost1 there is always an argument as to which bird will have the rear roost1 as they all want the highest place to roost1 or perch4 ,if the perches are all on the same level1 then there is no preference1 and things are more peaceful at roosting time4 ,we should plan on allowing about ten inches per bird for perching room4 ,plan to have a distance of about fourteen inches between each perch1 or pole4 ,arrange these perches at the rear of the house1 running parallel with the rear wall4 ,all modern poultry men have what is known as a dropping board under the perches1 so that the droppings will not fall in the scratching litter and soil this part of the scratching area4 ,these dropping boards are usually placed about six inches under the perches1 and extend as far forward as the perches do4 ,this makes the job of cleaning the poultry house quite a simple operation4 ,it is advisable to sprinkle some sand over the dropping boards to absorb the moisture and bad odor4 ,we have to give the birds a comfortable1 well secluded place to lay their eggs4 ,this is sometimes done by placing the nests1 or the part facing the front wall1 covered over with a board1 that can be raised by means of a hinge1 when collecting the eggs4 ,the hen can be made to enter the nest from the rear1 and if conditions are so that the nest is darkened1 then the hen will prefer this place to any other place in the house4 ,nests can also be placed along the front wall1 underneath the windows1 or on either side of the house4 ,however1 up to the present time1 below the dropping boards seems to be the most popular place for the nests with most poultry men4 ,every poultry house should have a dust box4 ,this is a box partially filled with dust or fine soil1 and placed in the front part of the house1 so that it will be in the sunlight4 ,the birds appreciate such a device1 and will use it generously1 as this aids them in fighting off insects that prey upon them4 ,suitable containers for food and water should be provided1 and kept clean4 ,the drinking fountains are of various designs1 and one can buy these very cheaply4 ,they are usually jars or cans inverted1 so that the water will come out in a small opening at the bottom1 just large enough for the bird to stick its head in4 ,the food containers1 for the dry mash are generally of the hopper kind1 having a box-like container with a trough at the bottom1 so that the food falls down into the small trough by gravity as the birds consume it4 ,thus1 in a good sized hopper1 a week's ration of mash can be put in the hopper without further attention4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,,lice ,,and ,,mites ,while we have interior fixtures of the poultry house fresh in mind let us turn our attention briefly to the study of parasites that live on the hen1 and that are detrimental to her progress4 ,there are quite a few various insects that depend upon the hen for their existence1 but for our purposes we can consider them in a general class of lice and mites1 as the treatment for each class is practically the same4 ,let us first consider the case of lice4 ,these insects live upon the body of the hen1 eating the flesh1 and dead skin as it peels off4 ,they never leave the hen1 and if conditions are favorable1 will lay their eggs on her body1 thus multiplying rapidly if precautions are not taken to look after this matter4 ,it is always well to treat a setting hen for lice before she is placed on the nest1 and then once or twice after she has started her job1 because these lice will very readily transfer from the mother hen to the young chicks1 as soon as hatched1 and a great many chicks die every year from these lice4 ,it is a splendid idea to grease all baby chicks1 especially those hatched by natural incubation1 with blue ointment1 around the head parts1 and wings4 ,the hens can also be greased in a similar manner over the whole body4 ,here is where the dust box that we discussed briefly in the previous chapter comes in1 as the birds1 wallowing in the box of dust1 smother the lice1 by shaking the dust into the pores of the bird's body4 ,a rather recent method of combating lice on birds is now fast gaining favor4 ,this is the ,sodium ,floride treatment4 ,this is best used only on a mild day1 however1 as the birds are quite wet after their treatment under this method4 ,the treatment is usually given as follows3 ,take an ordinary wash tub1 and fill nearly full with not too cold water4 ,for every gallon of water in the tub1 add one ounce of sodium floride1 obtainable at any drug store4 ,dip the hen in this solution1 tail first1 being sure to have a firm grasp on her so she will not splash the water over4 ,dip her in this manner about three times1 so that the solution comes up in under the feathers4 ,this method has been found to be very effective4 ,in extreme cases1 where the lice are very bad1 another similar treatment can be given each bird about a month later4 ,other good materials to apply to the bird's body1 besides those already mentioned1 are sweet oil1 vaseline1 and lard4 ,now we come to another pest that is a little harder to get rid of than the body lice4 ,the mites1 which are so bothersome to most poultry1 have the peculiar habit of staying on the birds only during the night1 creeping down at daylight to some crack or crevice to hide until darkness again forces the birds to go to roost4 ,these mites are even more destructive in their work than are the body lice4 ,they are generally found in any crack or crevice about the perches4 ,here they can obscure themselves1 and be very close to their prey when ready to begin their work at night4 ,while the lice are eating insects1 the mites are sucking insects1 and suck the blood of the birds during the night4 ,when the mite is hungry1 he is of a yellowish color4 ,when filled up1 however1 with a good meal of blood1 he is red4 ,the mite is very small1 and is similar in construction to a spider4 ,if a flock of chickens are believed to be suffering from mites1 and there are very few1 by the way1 that are not troubled with these pests1 then it would be advisable first1 to whitewash the poultry house thoroughly1 not only the roosting quarters1 but the walls and other fixtures inside the house4 ,kerosene is quite frequently used to spray the nests with1 but has not the lasting power that some of the coal tar products possess4 ,recently1 wood preservatives have been used for the purposes of ridding the poultry house of mites1 and very good results have been obtained from this method4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,,poultry ,,diseases ,it is not to be supposed that poultry1 living under the artificial conditions that man has ordained for them1 can be entirely free from diseases4 ,in fact1 very few poultry men can say that they have not had some kind of disease affect their flock4 ,most diseases are contagious1 so it is important to be on the watch for any symptoms of anything out of the ordinary4 ,sanitation plays a very important part in keeping the flock free from diseases1 and clean methods should always prevail4 ,do not allow the house to become filthy and foul smelling4 ,it is always a good precaution to disinfect the poultry premises at least once a year with a good whitewash or some strong disinfectant4 ,this is about the same as taking out a life insurance policy for the flock4 ,dampness is probably about the most common cause for diseases4 ,disease germs always multiply more rapidly in damp1 dark quarters4 ,therefore the advice given in an early chapter about keeping the poultry house light and well ventilated1 will bear repetition4 ,if one is accustomed to watching his birds as to their physical condition1 he will be able to notice the symptoms of any on-coming disease in time to isolate the bird thus affected1 before the disease has a chance to spread1 if it is a contagious disease4 ,by watching a bird thus isolated1 and also looking very carefully for any further symptoms in the flock1 one can do considerable in checking the disease4 ,the old adage1 8,an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure10 certainly is true in this case4 ,indigestion is a very common ailment with poultry1 especially with those birds that are fed heavy for egg production4 ,usually a little laxative material placed in the drinking water1 and making more of their ration a scratching ration1 in order to induce exercise1 is probably as simple and effective a treatment as can be given4 ,roup1 chicken pox1 and canker are also very common poultry diseases4 ,these three diseases are all supposed to be due to a small organism which multiply very rapidly1 and acts mostly on the skin of the bird4 ,these diseases are not similar in appearance1 however1 despite the fact that their source is the same4 ,roup attacks the mucous membrane lining of the nose1 and eye4 ,these parts become red and inflamed1 and infected with a pus formation4 ,this disease is spread largely through the drinking water1 and is prevalent in the spring when it is damp4 ,keep the birds healthy and vigorous1 provide proper ventilation1 and have things as dry as possible1 and little should be feared from this source4 ,chicken pox makes its appearance on the comb and wattles1 and also on the face of the bird1 by small pockets on these parts4 ,the remedy is the same in this case as has been stated for roup1 except that if only a few birds have contracted the disease1 each bird can be taken in hand and given individual treatment1 by removing the crust over the sores1 and applying a good disinfectant4 ,canker manifests itself by pale yellow spots on the inside of the mouth4 ,this is best treated1 as soon as discovered1 by scraping off this light yellow material1 and applying a good disinfectant4 ,all of these last three named diseases are caused by the same conditions1 and by avoiding these conditions very little trouble will be experienced in this malady4 ,birds that have had any of the above mentioned diseases should never be used for breeding purposes1 as their offspring will have a predisposition to the same ailment4 ,sometimes the perches are placed too high in the chicken house1 and the birds have to jump too far to reach the floor4 ,when this happens1 a hard lump often forms on the sole of the foot4 ,this is sometimes called bumble foot1 and is usually evident in the chicken's walk4 ,nothing but cutting out the hard part1 and washing the sore with a good disinfectant can remedy this condition4 ,while frosted combs could not be called a contagious disease1 we will discuss this matter briefly1 before closing this chapter4 ,in severe weather1 when the temperature is below zero1 and there is considerable dampness in the poultry house1 frozen combs are quite frequent4 ,this is especially true of the lighter birds1 which possess larger head parts than do the heavier breeds4 ,when a bird has its comb or wattles frozen1 it will stop laying for a considerable period of time1 usually a month at least4 ,if birds are found on a cold winter morning with frozen combs1 they should be treated with snow or cold water1 to take out the frost1 and then treated daily with vaseline until cured4 ,it is well to provide a pole up near the roof of the poultry house1 upon which a curtain1 made of burlap or some old cloth1 is arranged so that on cold winter nights this curtain can be lowered directly in front of the front perch4 ,this will tend to protect the birds from the excessive cold1 by conserving the heat given off by their bodies during the night4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,,cull ,,the ,,flock ,when the poultry industry was being established upon a business foundation1 many of the leading breeders devised the idea of measuring the egg capacity of their birds by actually counting the eggs laid by their best birds4 ,this practice is still followed by many poultry breeders1 but is a job that consumes considerable time1 and it can be seen that only those who are constantly with the flock could be able to do this4 ,but within the last few years1 there has been developed a system whereby one can tell by the external appearance of the bird just about what her ability as an egg producer will be in one year4 ,a ,mr4 ,hogan was the first man to notice these characteristics and his method has been so far perfected that most poultry keepers are quite familiar with it1 and thereby saved the bother of trap-nesting4 ,this culling process1 as it is called1 is best accomplished during the months of ,august and ,september4 ,by picking up each female in the flock at this time1 except of course the spring pullets1 one can find out which birds are still laying1 and which ones have already quit4 ,it has been in the past too much the custom of farmers to go out into their poultry flock in the fall of the year1 and pick out the birds that had not yet started to moult1 and whose appearance was ragged and rather uncomely4 ,these birds would be picked out by the farmer1 or in many cases his wife1 and sent to market as meat birds1 and they would keep the birds who had already moulted1 and whose feathers were in splendid color at that time4 ,however1 in the light of recent facts brought out by this culling process1 we now know that these rather ragged1 unsightly birds were our best layers1 and should have been kept because they had been working continuously1 not taking the time off to quit laying and look pretty1 as had their more lazy companions4 ,there are still a great number of people that cling to the old method1 but the light is dawning1 and it will probably be but a short while before practically everyone interested in poultry will know of this culling method1 and who can in a brief examination of a bird tell quite readily whether she should be kept or sold4 ,we will now discuss the various methods by which a bird can be judged as to her egg laying ability4 ,no one sign can be relied upon1 but the different signs taken together should form the final judgment4 ,one can usually tell something about the bird by her general habits4 ,the good layer is a busy hen4 ,she is happy1 singing1 and not as afraid of the attendant as is the loafer4 ,as this hen usually eats more than the non-layer1 she is usually found busily scratching in the litter for the food material with which she makes her eggs4 ,the good layer is always the first off the roost in the morning1 and the last one to go to roost at night4 ,watch out for the timid1 crafty hen that stays on the outskirts of the flock4 ,she is lazy1 inactive1 and the quicker she is sent to the butcher1 the better4 ,another very good aid in forming judgment as to the ability of the birds1 is to go around the roosts at night1 after the birds have all gone to roost4 ,feel of their crops4 ,the good layer that has been working hard to get together food material for her eggs will have a full crop1 while her lazy companions1 that are not so interested in producing eggs1 will have a fairly empty crop at this time4 ,little items such as ,i have mentioned here will tell considerable about the ability of the birds4 ,it is a fact that there are any number of birds in ,america that lay only a few dozen eggs per year1 but are kept the year round1 because the owner has had no way of knowing the producers from the non-producers4 ,as has been already brought out1 the heavy layers molt late4 ,often they continue laying up until ,october and ,november4 ,if you have hens nearly naked of feathers in ,october or ,november1 just rest assured that these are your most profitable birds1 and that they did not quit laying to put on a pretty coat of feathers in the middle of the summer4 ,you should mark these birds in some manner1 so that you can use them as breeders for the coming winter1 because1 if they are mated with a cockerel1 that is the son of a good layer1 your strain will be greatly improved1 because these birds will transmit their laying ability to their offspring4 ,a good laying hen will have a long1 broad1 and deep1 rectangular body1 with top and bottom lines parallel4 ,this large sized body is essential to the hen1 so that she will have sufficient room to digest enough food to make her eggs4 ,a broad back is also necessary for proper room for the reproductive organs that make the egg4 ,the head of the good layer is always of a healthy appearance4 ,the good layer has a short stubby beak1 or bill1 and gracefully curved1 as compared to the long shapeless bill of the loafer4 ,the eyes are prominent1 and stick out similar to a shoe button1 rather than sunken in4 ,the combs and wattles are red1 and not pale1 as in the non-layer4 ,the good layer will not have the bright colored yellow1 after she has been laying for a short while1 that the loafer will have4 ,this is because she uses this yellow pigment in making the yolk of her eggs1 so that as her laying period proceeds1 she becomes more and more faded in her bill1 eye lids1 ear lobes1 and shanks4 ,consequently1 if some of your birds have a faded appearance1 don't condemn them1 they are the hardest workers in your flock4 ,furthermore1 the hen with worn toe-nails is one that should be kept1 because this shows us quite clearly that she uses them considerably in scratching for her feed4 ,now let us examine the anatomy of the hen a little more closely so that we can get some more evidence for or against the hen in question4 ,one of the most common ways1 nowadays1 in picking out the laying hen is to examine what is known as the pelvic bones4 ,these are found on either side of the vent1 towards the rear of the body4 ,they are generally called the lay bones by most poultry men4 ,they both mean the same4 ,now these bones tell a vivid story4 ,these bones are usually measured by the fingers1 or as to how many fingers can be inserted between the two bones4 ,a poor layer will have a thick1 grizzly covering of meat over the lay1 or pelvic bones1 and just about the width of one finger can be inserted between them4 ,this shows us quickly that she is not a layer4 ,then1 lets compare this poor layer to the good layer4 ,here we find something different4 ,there is just a slight covering over the pelvic bones4 ,the meat is thin and spare4 ,if we feel of the bones1 we find them quite thin and pliable4 ,we next try to insert as many fingers between the two bones as possible4 ,we will find that we can insert at least two fingers1 and probably three1 if our fingers are not too wide4 ,the heavier the hen is laying1 the wider the distance between the bones4 ,now1 while we have the bird1 let us look a little further into this bird's conformation4 ,the keel bone1 or rear end of the breast bone1 can be used as one unit1 and the lay bones as the other unit of measure4 ,see how many fingers you can get between the lay bones and the keel bone4 ,even for a small breed you should easily get in the width of three fingers1 and for a larger breed you should get in the width of four fingers4 ,this measures the hen's capacity for feed4 ,this distance between the lay bones and the keel bone is called the abdomen4 ,we can tell considerable about the hen by the texture of the abdomen skin4 ,if the skin is tough1 and meaty1 we can say right away that she is not a good hen1 but if the skin is tender1 pliable1 and soft1 then we can feel assured that she must be kept in the flock4 ,these are the principal features in selecting the laying hen4 ,if one can get these principles in mind1 and go out into his flock and separate the hens into two flocks1 and keep these two flocks apart for a while1 he would discover some interesting things4 ,for instance1 cull out the poor hens and put them in one pen4 ,possibly you will have the largest pen1 when you have finished1 composed of the poor layers4 ,keep the good hens in another pen separated from the poor ones4 ,keep feeding the same feeds as you had been doing before you separated the flock into two pens4 ,now1 for a few weeks1 compare the daily egg record of the two flocks4 ,you will find that there is about as much difference as between night and day4 ,now1 to bring the lesson home a little more forceful1 just figure out what it costs you per day to keep these star boarders1 and see if you think culling is a paying proposition4 ,most every agricultural college has a bulletin printed on culling giving essentially the same information as ,i have given1 but they usually have quite a few illustrations that will make the procedure a little more clearer than ,i have done4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,,preserving ,,eggs ,,for ,,winter ,it was deemed advisable to add a few words in this little booklet in regard to collecting eggs when they are cheap1 and storing them away for the part of the year when eggs are high priced4 ,during the months of ,march1 ,april1 ,may1 and ,june eggs are the cheapest on the market1 due to the fact that the birds are all laying during these few months1 and consequently1 the supply far exceeds the average demand4 ,if we pay fifteen cents for a dozen of eggs in ,april1 or ,may1 and then in ,december we pay sixty cents or more for the same product1 then it can easily be seen that it is a paying proposition to store some of these cheap spring eggs for winter use4 ,we will now take up the method of storing these spring eggs for our ,december breakfast4 ,to make this process about #ajj per cent efficient1 it is best to candle the eggs first1 before storing them away4 ,this process of candling has been explained in a previous chapter4 ,if the air cell1 at the blunt end of the egg is small1 then we may be sure that the egg is of recent origin4 ,if the contents look clear1 and the yolk is not loose1 inside the shell1 then we need have no fears as to the edibility of the egg4 ,one very good way1 for one not accustomed to candling1 is to examine a few in front of the light1 and then break a few in a dish1 so as to get the proper relation fixed in mind4 ,if we can secure eggs that are infertile1 we will not have to throw out hardly any eggs in this process4 ,in preparing to preserve our eggs for winter1 there are several methods used by people who follow this practice4 ,some just pack the eggs in sawdust in a box or barrel1 but this method is not always reliable4 ,there are two standard ways of preserving these eggs4 ,one is in using waterglass1 and the other is the use of lime water solution4 ,both methods are reliable1 but the first named method seems to be the more popular of the two4 ,in either case1 earthen crocks or wooden pails are the best containers4 ,neither of these solutions affects them4 ,a three gallon container is large enough to preserve ten dozen eggs4 ,for this sized container1 about six quarts of the solution will be necessary4 ,we will discuss the waterglass method first4 ,procure the amount of waterglass that you will need for this year at a drug store4 ,use this at the rate of one pint of waterglass to nine pints of water4 ,before mixing the two liquids1 boil the water1 and let it cool4 ,then mix the two liquids1 in the proportion stated1 and place in container4 ,then add the eggs1 7about ten dozen to this mixture71 and store in a cool place4 ,be sure that there is about two or three inches of the solution above the eggs1 and add a little water occasionally to replace the water lost by evaporation4 ,the lime solution is mixed a little differently4 ,slack about two pounds of quick lime in a small quantity of hot water4 ,after this has slacked1 add it to about two gallons of water1 and then add one pound of salt4 ,stir this in a thorough manner1 and then allow the mixture to settle4 ,there will then be found a sediment in the bottom of the solution4 ,pour off the clear liquid1 and use this as the preservative material4 ,then keep the same as directions given for the waterglass preparation4 ,in this manner1 one can have table eggs the year round at a reasonable price4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 ,,selling ,,the ,,product ,we have discussed the main points to be considered in raising various poultry products in this little booklet4 ,however1 much of our success in the poultry business will depend on our ability to obtain the top prices for our products after we have raised them4 ,in fact1 this is the cry all over the country now among the farming population4 ,the various agricultural agencies that have heretofore spent considerable time and effort in teaching the farmer to raise a large quantity of good products1 have apparently accomplished this result1 and now these same agencies are trying to organize the farmers into selling their products so that they can receive a higher price for them4 ,the farmer usually has no time to devote to the special marketing of his crop1 as he is too busy raising farm products1 so attempts at co-operative marketing have been made4 ,there have been many failures in this method in the past1 but now the farmer realizes that this system is really his only salvation1 and he is receiving the idea of co-operation in a better mood than he did in the past4 ,however1 for the one living in town1 with but a small flock of birds1 more time can usually be devoted to this end of the business1 with splendid returns4 ,many town lot poultry keepers can sell all the eggs that they can get just around to their neighbors1 who are usually glad to pay a little more than the market price for the assurance that the eggs are strictly fresh4 ,however1 if one has a fairly good yield of winter eggs1 and is not content to sell the eggs to his neighbors at around market price1 there are other methods that can bring much higher returns4 ,some poultry raisers get in touch with local or neighboring hotels and restaurants1 and agree to let these parties have their entire output of eggs at a certain margin above market price4 ,for instance1 it is a common method to make an agreement with such parties to sell them their eggs at ten cents above market prices4 ,if the market quotations for fresh eggs were thirty-two cents for a certain day1 the hotel keeper would pay forty-two cents1 if the eggs were delivered on this day4 ,usually1 the restaurant or hotel is glad to pay this premium over the market price1 because he takes quite a chance with store eggs1 in that some of them are often stale1 and this is a matter that reflects against his business4 ,also1 if such an agreement can be made1 the hotel or restaurant man can advertise the fact that he serves nothing but fresh eggs1 which is good business for him4 ,when one is getting a big yield daily1 he can usually plan to sell his eggs by the case to city commission men1 who will always pay a good premium over local markets4 ,if one has not enough eggs to sell a case once or twice weekly in such a manner1 this difficulty is often overcome by combining with neighbors who are willing to take the proper care in producing clean1 fresh eggs for market4 ,however1 such neighbors must be in sympathy with what is expected for fresh eggs1 and who have the courage to refrain from putting in eggs that are not clean and fresh4 ,if one case is sent in to these commission men and the quality of the eggs is not of first class1 quite a dockage will be deducted from the check1 and your reputation will thereby suffer4 ,never wash eggs that are soiled1 but use them in your own kitchen1 as the washing will remove the natural bloom1 or fine powder that is found on the untouched egg4 ,one can secure clean eggs by keeping the bedding in the nests clean4 ,there is always a splendid opportunity to sell hatching eggs in the spring of the year1 if one has had the foresight to get started in purebred poultry4 ,there is always a large demand for hatching eggs and most hatcheries can not fill their orders4 ,for the one engaged in the poultry business1 even on a small scale1 this offers a splendid opportunity1 especially when eggs are selling cheap on the market1 as they do in the spring of the year1 to divide the mature birds up into small pens of about ten females to one good male bird1 and sell these eggs at anywhere from #a4ej a setting to as much as you can get4 ,the higher the quality of the stock1 the more money one can demand for such hatching eggs4 ,then there is another good source of revenue from selling adult birds for breeding purposes4 ,if your flock is composed of good individuals1 you should experience little difficulty in selling your surplus birds from #e up4 ,a little well planned advertising is often a good thing to do1 to let people know what you have got for sale4 ,often an advertisement in the local paper1 or a rural weekly will bring in many inquiries in regard to the birds or eggs that you have to sell4 ,probably a cheaper way of advertising1 if you really have good birds1 is to show a pen1 consisting of four females and one male1 at some of the neighboring poultry shows4 ,if you can succeed in winning a premium1 this will be a splendid factor in your efforts in selling breeding stock4 ,it is usually permissible to place a little card on the outside of your pen at the poultry show1 giving your name and address1 and stating that you have breeding stock for sale1 or that you are now taking orders for hatching eggs in the spring4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,,in ,,conclusion ,i have tried to explain in this little booklet that there is a splendid opportunity for one to engage in the poultry industry1 whether it be on a large scale1 or a small scale4 ,there is considerable pleasure as well as profit in this work1 for the one that is posted on a few of the essential principles1 as has been laid down in this short treatise4 ,it will probably be well to repeat a few facts that should be remembered first1 however1 before closing4 ,do not expect to make a great amount of money from your poultry the first year4 ,getting started right in the poultry business will cost something1 so for the first year1 if you just break even you will do well4 ,plan to learn as you go along4 ,every poultry raiser should take at least one poultry journal1 to keep posted on the latest facts concerning the business4 ,these journals always carry a great amount of advertising matter in regard to stock for breeding and in regard to poultry house equipment1 etc4 ,many useful ideas can be secured from pretty near every issue of a standard paper4 ,get acquainted with the other poultry people in your own locality4 ,this is especially true in regard to those who have the same breed that you have4 ,if your locality boasts of a poultry association1 become a member of this association4 ,you can then get much valuable information in regard to your business4 ,get in touch with your state agricultural college1 and especially with the poultry department4 ,write to them and ask them to send you all the bulletins that they have published on poultry1 and tell them to place you on their mailing list1 so that any future bulletins that they may publish will be sent you free of charge4 ,then the ,u4 ,s4 ,dept4 of ,agriculture has many excellent bulletins on different branches of the poultry industry that are worth sending for4 ,it is located at ,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,another splendid thing1 if you can succeed in interesting others in your community1 would be to send to the ,motion ,picture ,lab41 ,u4 ,s4 ,dept4 of ,agriculture1 ,wash41 ,d4 ,c41 and have them send you their film on culling1 entitled1 8,select the ,laying ,hen40 ,it certainly brings out in a splendid manner1 just how to cull your flock4 ,most any moving picture house would be glad to run this reel free of charge4 ,the only expense of securing this film is the transportation charges from ,washington1 ,d4 ,c41 to your home town4 ,with these parting words on the betterment of your flock1 remember that poultry work has its ups and downs1 like any other business4 ,however1 for one willing to inform himself on the business1 a very pleasurable and profitable experience may be anticipated4 ,,bibliography ,the books listed below are in cloth binding and can be secured from ,haldeman-,julius ,company1 ,clothbound ,book ,department1 ,girard1 ,kansas4 ,the prices quoted include carriage charges4 ,success ,with ,hens1 ,robert ,joos4 ,cloth4 #a4ce postpaid4 ,my ,poultry ,day by ,day1 ,alfred ,gibson4 ,cloth4 #c4ae postpaid4 ,international ,poultryman's ,handbook4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated4 #a4aj postpaid4 ,anatomy of the ,fowl1 ,kaupp4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated4 #c4fe postpaid4 ,poultry ,culture1 ,hygiene and ,sanitation1 ,kaupp4 ,cloth4 ,illustrated4 #c4ae postpaid4 ,mating and ,breeding of ,poultry1 ,lamon ,slocum4 ,cloth4 #b4fe postpaid4 ,transcriber's ,notes pg #h ,changed3 content herself to set on a nest of eggs to3 content herself to sit on a nest of eggs pg #bb ,changed3 from the center to the outside1 and vica versa to3 from the center to the outside1 and vice versa pg #bd ,changed3 ,there are seval different sizes to3 ,there are several different sizes pg #bd ,changed3 ,the manufacturors of the incubator to3 ,the manufacturers of the incubator pg #be ,changed3 by springling water on the floor to3 by sprinkling water on the floor pg #cc ,changed3 green fed of any kind can be added to3 green feed of any kind can be added pg #ee ,changed3 ,it was though that the sunshine to3 ,it was thought that the sunshine pg #fi ,changed3 and dead skin as it peals off to3 and dead skin as it peels off