,,transcrib]',s ,,note ,italic text is d5ot$ by und]scores4 ,bold text is d5ot$ by equal signs4 ,footnote an*ors are d5ot$ by numb]1 & ! footnotes h be5 plac$ at ! end ( ! p>agraph4 ,"s m9or *anges to ! text are not$ at ! end ( ! book4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,i4 ,,indigo ,,dy$ ,,batik ,,f ,,madras ,,dyes & ,,dye+ ,,by ,,*>les ,e4 ,,pellew ,=m]ly ,adjunct ,pr(essor ( ,*emi/ry at ,columbia ,univ]sity ,illu/ration3 7colophon7 ,,new ,,york ,,rob]t ,m4 ,mc,b,r,i,d,e ,,company #aiah ,,copyright1 #aiac1 ,,by ,mc,b,r,i,d,e1 ,,na/ ,,company ,,copyright1 #aiah1 ,,by ,,rob]t ,m4 ,mc,b,r,i,d,e ,,company ,new & enl>g$ edition ,publi%$1 ,janu>y1 #aiah ,,cont5ts ,,page ,,*apt] ,i--,,introduction #e ,dyes ( ! ,anci5ts--,dyes ( ,our ,ance/ors--,animal1 ,vegetable & ,m9]al ,dyes--,outfit = ,practical ,dye+4 ,,*apt] ,,ii--,,mod]n ,,dye/uffs #dj ,discov]y ( ! ,anil9e or ,coal-,t> ,colors--,_! ,prop]ties & ,uses--,h[ ,obta9$--,h[ ,nam$--,classification ( ,coal-,t> ,colors = ,craftsm54 ,,*apt] ,,iii--,,! ,,direct ,,cotton ,,or ,,salt ,,colors #ec ,discov]y1 ,prop]ties & ,uses ( ! ,salt ,colors2 ) ,li/s ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs1 & ,dy+ ,directions = ,cotton & ,l95-- ,fa/ness to ,light & ,wa%+--,aft]-treatm5t4 ,,*apt] ,,iv--,,!ory ,,& ,,practice ,,( ,,color ,,dye+ #ga ,ev5 & ,%ad$ ,dye+ ) ! ,prim>y ,colors--,exp]im5ts ) ,second>y ,colors--,mat*+ ,%ades4 ,,*apt] ,v--,,! ,,sulphur ,,colors #he ,discov]y--,prop]ties & ,uses ( ! ,sulphur ,colors--,li/ ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs1 & ,dye+ ,directions = ,cotton & ,l954 ,,*apt] ,,vi--,,! ,,indigo ,,or ,,vat ,,colors #ia ,natural & ,syn!tic ,indigo--,prop]ties & ,application--,vat ,dye+1 ,old & ,mod]n--,dye+ ,directions--,! ,mod]n ,vat ,colors--,_! ,prop]ties & ,uses--,select$ ,dye/uffs--,fa/ness to ,light & ,wa%+--,dye+ ,directions = ,cotton1 ,l95 & ,silk4 ,,*apt] ,,vii--,,! ,,basic ,,colors #ajh ,hi/ory1 ,prop]ties1 & ,application to ,cotton1 ,wool1 ,silk1 etc4--,disadvantages--,n ,fa/ to ,light--,dye+ ,directions = ,/raw1 ,raffia1 etc4 ,,*apt] ,,viii--,,! ,,acid ,,colors #abc ,hi/ory1 ,prop]ties1 ,uses1 & ,li/ ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs--,dye+ ,directions = ,wool4 ,,*apt] ,,ix--,,dye+ ,,fea!rs #aca ,! ,dye-ba?--,! ,dye+ ,me?od--,! ,f9i%+ ,process--,dry & ,wet ,/>*+--,dye+ 9 ! ,/>*--,black ,dye+ ( ,fea!rs-- ,pa9t+ ,fea!rs4 ,,*apt] ,x--,,lea!r ,,& ,,lea!r ,,dye+ #ada ,hi/ory--,prep>ation ( ,lea!r--,oil1 ,m9]al & ,b>k ,tann+-- ,dye+1 ,/a9+ & ,f9i%+ ,lea!r4 ,,*apt] ,,xi--,,silk ,i #aef ,hi/ory1 ,orig9 & ,v>ieties ( ,silk--,prep>+ ,silk = ,dye+-- ,piece ,dye+--,ske9 ,dye+--,dye+ ,wild ,silks4 ,,*apt] ,,xii--,,silk ,,ii #afh ,black ,dye+ ( ,silk--,coal-,t> ,colors--,logwood--,weight+ ( ,silk-- ,prop]ties & ,te/s = ,weight$ ,silk--,dye+ ,silk ) ,colors ,fa/ to ,wa%+4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii--,,imitation ,,& ,,artificial ,,silk #aha ,hi/ory1 ,prep>ation & ,prop]ties ( ,m]c]iz$ ,cotton--,hi/ory1 ,prep>ation & ,prop]ties ( ,artificial ,silk--,precautions to be ,tak5 9 ,dye+ & ,f9i%+4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv--,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w #aib ,z ,us$ 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 ,india1 ,philipp9es & ,u4,s4--,v>iations 9 ,ty+ ,process--,h[ ,dy$--,ti$ & ,dis*>g$ ,"w4 ,,*apt] ,,xv--,,/5cils ,,& ,,/5cill+ #baa ,japanese ,practice--,u4,s4 ,practice--,knives1 ,bru%es1 ,pap]1 etc4-- ,colors = ,lea!r1 ,silk1 & ,cotton--,/5cill+ ) ,anil9e ,black ,pa/e4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi--,,resi/ ,,& ,,dis*>ge ,,/5cill+ #bbh ,japanese ,practice--,resi/ ,pa/e & ! ,sulphur ,colors--,dis*>ge ,/5cill+ ) ,blea*+ ,p[d] & ,hydrosulphite4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii--,,batik ,,or ,,wax ,,resi/ #bda ,javanese ,practice--,mod]n ,practice & ,app>atus--,dye+ ( ,batik$ ,goods--,use ( ,batik ,process on ,cotton1 ,l951 ,silk1 ,lea!r1 ,wood1 ,bone1 etc4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii--,,! ,,influ5ce ,,( ,,! ,,w> ,,^u ,,! ,,dye/uff ,,indu/ry #bfj ,rise ( ! ,g]man ,dye/uff ,monopoly--,ru9 ( ! ,engli% ,dye/uff ,indu/ry--,dye/uff ,indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates--,*ang$ ,conditions ,due to ! ,w>--,li/s ( ,be/ ,dye/uffs4 ,,! ,,illu/rations ,,plates ,,9 ,,color ,,plate ,i ,indigo dy$ batik f ,madras ,frontispiece ,,fac+ ,,page ,,ii ,japanese t[ell+1 %[+ impression ( fre% damp leaves #bf ,,iii ,same t[ell+ aft] imm]sion 9 iron spr+ #cj ,,iv 7a7 ,example ( ti$ & dy$ "w #baj 7b7 ,example ( ti$ & dis*>g$ "w ,v ,japanese t[ell+ /5cill$ 9 resi/ & dy$ by imm]sion 9 iron spr+ #bcj ,,illu/rations ,,9 ,,half-,,tone ,,fig4 #a ,%ellfi% us$ by ! anci5ts = ,tyrian purple #ab ,sir ,w4 ,h4 ,p]k9 #db #b ,ti$ & dy$ headdress f an ,inca tomb 9 ,p]u #aib #c ,%ik> *undri1 f ,rajputana1 ) knots /ill unti$ #aif #d ,same *undri unti$ & %ak5 out #aih #e ,bagobo headdress f ! ,isl& ( ,m9danao #bjj #f ,sample ( ti$ & dy$ "w1 8ti$ on itself0 #bjb #g ,sample ( ti$ & dy$ "w1 8ti$ 9 b&s0 #bjd #h ,ti$ & dy$ "w--,fold+ ! clo? #bjf #i ,/>t+ to tie #bjf #aj ,c5tre portion ti$ #bjf #aa ,c5tre & corn]s ti$ #bjh #ab ,dy$1 unti$ & %ak5 out #bjh #ac ,japanese /5cil knife #bab #ad ,japanese /5cil bru%es #bab #ae ,japanese /5cil1 %[+ holes pun*$ by h& tool #baf #af ,japanese /5cil1 %[+ use ( /ops #baf #ag ,japanese /5cil1 %[+ use ( sew+ in/ead ( /ops #baf #ah ,japanese /5cils1 %[+ use ( bo? /ops & net #bah #ai ,l>ge & h&some ,japanese /5cil1 %[+ use ( net #bbd #bj 8,teapot0 model ( tjant+ #bdh #ba ,wal!r glass tjant+ #bdh #bb 8,wax p5cil0 model ( tjant+ #bdh #bc ,javanese tjant+s #bej #bd ,am]ican modification ( ,javanese tjant+ #bej ,,diagrams ,,9 ,,! ,,lett]press ,prim>y ,colors #gc ,mix$ ,colors #gi ,,preface ,:5 a new text-book is (f]$ to an innoc5t & long-suff]+ public ab\t su* an anci5t subject z ,dyes & ,dye+1 x is1 p]haps1 ! v lea/ t ! au?or c d1 to expla9 briefly 8 reasons = hop+ t 8 p>ticul> book may prove ( "s special usefulness4 ,z a matt] ( fact ?is book is int5d$ = ! use ( craftsm5 & o!rs :o are try+ to dye & /a9 textiles by h& & on a small scale1 r ?an = pr(essional dy]s or dye+ *emi/s :o are int]e/$ 9 factory dye+1 conduct$ on a l>ge scale4 ,= ! latt] !re is little or no difficulty 9 gett+ any in=mation t !y desire1 ei!r f ! l>ge & c>efully writt5 text-books or1 /ill bett]1 f ! _m excell5t dye+ manuals & books ( directions issu$ at frequ5t int]vals by ! great color h\ses4 ,b = craftsm5 & _! l1 ! amateur dy]s z oppos$ to ! regul> pr(essionals1 ! requir$ in=mation is n easy to obta94 ,_! lead]s & tea*]s1 z a rule1 pr(ess a scorn ( ! wond]ful discov]ies :i*1 9 ! la/ half c5tury1 h revolutioniz$ ! art ( dye+ m1 p]haps1 ?an any o!r bran* ( h&icraft4 ,& ! dye+ *emi/s & writ]s h devot$ !mselves almo/ exclusively to ! f> l>g] & m important & m pr(itable field ( comm]cial or pr(essional dye+1 & only "h & !re is "o f\nd :o has giv5 any special att5tion to ! dyes & processes ne$$ by ^? work+ only on a small scale4 ,= my own "p1 aft] tea*+ ! pr9ciples & practice ( mod]n dye+ to class aft] class ( *emical /ud5ts at ,columbia1 my att5tion 0 call$ to ?is p>ticul> bran* ( ! subject by f9d+1 "o spr+1 t "s fri5ds _h />t$ a h&-weav+ indu/ry at a settlem5t h\se 9 :i* ,i 0 int]e/$1 b _h n made any arrangem5t = a dyeh\se at ! same "t4 ,?is 0 a s]i\s omission because x is almo/ impossible to buy 9 ! m>ket raw mat]ials = h&-wov5 rugs1 table-cov]s1 & ! l1 t are dy$ j ! "r %ade &1 at ! same "t1 are fa/ to bo? light & wa%+2 &1 unless ?is la/ is gu>ante$1 !re is little or no excuse = *>g+ ! l>ge prices necess>y to pay = ! extra exp5se ( ! h& labor4 ,wi%+1 !re=e1 to help out my fri5ds1 ,i (f]$ to assi/ z f> z possible 9 ?is "p ( ! "w4 ,t summ] 0 sp5t on ! ,/4 ,lawr5ce1 :]e x 0 possible to /udy "s ( ! textile "w ( ! ,fr5* habitants ^: dye+ processes1 designs1 & looms _h desc5d$ f "m to daught] s9ce ! old ,colonial days2 & 9 ! autumn ,i fitt$ up a little dyeh\se & />t$ ) a small b intellig5t class ( neighbors :o 7 work+ at ! looms4 ,( c\rse1 x 0 fooli% to attempt to tea* !m ! sci5tific *emical =mul us$ by my /ud5ts upt[n4 ,! processes mu/ be %ort & simple--mu/ give ! desir$ %ades on cotton1 l951 wool1 & silk 9 ! c\rse ( an h\r or an h\r & a half at ! outside1 c\nt+ f ! "t :5 ! class 0 call$ to ord]4 ,& ! colors mu/ be absolutely fa/ to light1 &1 :]ev] possible1 to wa%+ also4 ,! "w 0 v int]e/+ & prov$ successful en\gh1 at lea/ z f> z ! dye+ w5t4 ,aft] a few mon?s "s visit+ report]1 9 an article on ,gre5wi* ,h\se & its indu/ries1 m5tion$ ! dye+1 9 a magaz9e1 & /at$ t ! colors result+ 7 n only beautiful b fa/4 ,imm$iately ,i 0 bomb>d$ ) lett]s f all ov] ! c\ntry1 begg+ = in=mation ab\t p]man5t dye/uffs to be us$ = h&-wov5 textiles4 ,reque/s came f fri5ds & acqua9tances to help !m 9 v>i\s side bran*es ( ! subject1 su* z fea!r dye+1 lea!r dye+ & /a9+1 /5cill+1 ti$ & dy$ "w1 &1 above all1 ,batik4 ,& x soon became a s\rce ( mu* int]e/ to look up "s old process ( dye+1 orig9at+ p]haps 9 ! ,ea/1 p]haps among ! anci5t ,egyptians1 & to "w x out ) ! be/ mod]n dye/uffs4 ,f9ally1 my correspond5ce grew s burd5some t ,i arrang$ ) ! well-kn[n ,new ,york magaz9e1 ,! ,craftsman1 = a s]ies ( articles ^u 8,mod]n ,dye/uffs & ,dye+ ,processes = ! ,use ( ,craftsm502 & f ^! articles ! pres5t book is a natural result4 ,x is hop$ t x w prove useful1 n only = individuals :o are try+1 "u consid]able difficulties1 to get satisfactory results1 by means ( long-ab&on$ processes1 ^u textile mat]ials ( _m sorts & k9ds1 b also = tea*]s ( art 9 our public z well z private s*ools4 ,mu* att5tion is be+ giv5 n[ to tra9+ ! h&s ( *ildr5 9 v>i\s draw+ & decorat+ & weav+ processes4 ,b ! mod]n dye/uffs give a mu* great] opportunity to tra9 _! eyes to a s5se ( color & to its beauties1 z well z giv+ !m an introduction into an art :i* c be us$ at home = mo/ useful z well z beautiful purposes4 ,my he>ty ?anks are due to _m fri5ds1 notably1 to ,mr4 ,philip ,cl>kson1 head *emi/ ( ,h4 ,a4 ,metz ,co41 to ,dr4 ,ludwig1 ( ! ,cassella ,color ,co41 & to _m o!r exp]t dye+ *emi/s1 :o h mo/ k9dly help$ me ) advice & in=mation ab\t _m widely v>y+ bran*es ( ! subject4 ,also to _m ( my craftsman fri5ds1 notably ,mrs4 ,c4 ,l4 ,banks1 ( ,bridgeport1 ,conn41 & ,mrs4 ,*>lotte ,busck1 ( ?is city1 :o h be5 ( ! greate/ assi/ance 9 work+ out _m ( ! problems involv$ 9 /5cill+ & ,batik2 & to ,miss ,m>y ,grey1 ( ,hackett/[n1 ,n4 ,j41 :o has k9dly all[$ me to ins]t an illu/ration ( "s ( h] int]e/+ & well-design$ ti$ "w 7,fig4 #g74 ,x is my e>ne/ hope t ! in=mation conta9$ 9 ?is book may enc\rage & assi/ o!r craftsm5 ?r\gh\t ! c\ntry to come up to ! high /&>d ( ^! skill$ textile work]s4 ,c4 ,e4 ,p4 ,,*apt] ,i ,,introduction ,!re has be5 s mu* said & writt5 ab\t ! beauty & value ( ! old-fa%ion$ dye/uffs & dye+ processes & _! sup]iority to ! mod]n color+ matt]s1 t _m well-mean+ p ( arti/ic ta/es h nev] ceas$ to deplore ! discov]y & introduction ( ! s-call$ anil9e or coal-t> dyes1 & to reg>d !m z a s]i\s detrim5t to ! art ( dye+4 ,"s1 inde$1 h gone s f> z to decry ! discov]ies n only ( ! la/ fifty ye>s1 b also ( ! la/ n9ete5 or tw5ty c5turies4 ,^! quote ) approval ! great ,john ,rusk91 f\nd] & orig9al lead] ( ! :ole ,arts & ,crafts movem5t 9 ,engl&1 if n 9 ! _w1 z hav+ said1 8,!re has be5 no?+ discov]$ ( ! slighte/ int]e/ 9 ! t9ctorial art0 7! art ( dye+7 8s9ce ! days ( ! anci5t ,greeks & ,romans40 ,to suppose = an in/ant t ?is important & highly specializ$ art has n advanc$ dur+ ne>ly two ?\s& ye>s is1 on ! face ( x1 absurd4 ,a v little k ( dye/uffs =ces recognition ( ! fact t _m ( ! v be/1 fa/e/1 & mo/ beautiful ( ! dyes ( our ance/ors--su* z co*9eal1 ) :i* !y dy$ practically all ( _! fa/ p9ks & sc>lets2 logwood1 ) :i* silk z well z wool 01 & is /ill dy$ black2 fu/ic1 :i* 0 us$ = fa/ yell[s on wool & cotton1 & sev]al o!rs--7 natives ( ,am]ica1 & !re=e only kn[n to ! _w at l>ge s9ce ! sev5te5? c5tury4 ,inde$1 z we %all see1 ! art ( dye+1 bas$ z x is on *emical processes1 discov]$ "o by "o1 b nev] prop]ly expla9$ or und]/ood until ! la/ sixty or sev5ty ye>s1 is1 p]haps1 ! "o art above all o!rs 9 :i* n only ! anci5t _w1 b ! _w ( comp>atively a few ye>s ago1 0 v di/9ctly inf]ior to t ( ! pres5t day4 ,9 draw+1 sculpture1 pa9t+1 ar*itecture1 c]amics1 wood-c>v+1 lacemak+1 metal work+1 & almo/ e o!r art t c be m5tion$1 ! craftsman ( ! ,middle ,ages1 if n inde$ ( anci5t ,rome or ,greece1 c\ld /ill hold 8 place aga9/ mod]n competitors4 ,ev5 9 su* a mod]n art z book pr9t+1 ! lov] ( books w claim1 ) consid]able reason1 t no m beautiful or m ne>ly p]fect specim5 ( ! pr9t]'s art has ev] be5 produc$ ?an ! ,gut5b]g ,bible1 ! fir/ product ( ! ,european pr9t+ press4 ,! art ( dye+1 h[ev]1 has be5 *ang+ & develop+ s mu* f c5tury to c5tury1 t1 ev5 be=e ! wond]ful discov]ies ( ! la/ fifty ye>s1 ! effects produc$ by any "o g5]ation ( dy]s w\ld h be5 totally impossible = _! ance/ors ( a few g5]ations be=e !m4 ,x w\ld seem h>dly wor? :ile to dwell fur!r ^u ?is subject1 7 n ! idea s fix$ 9 ! m9ds ( craftsm5 9 g5]al t to get p]man5t & arti/ic effects 9 dye+ we mu/ g back to ! colors ( our ance/ors1 if n to ^? ( ! anci5t _w4 ,to ?is day we he> ( new indu/ries be+ />t$ 9 ! l9es ( h&-made tape/ries1 h&-wov5 l95s1 homespun clo?s1 & ! l1 :]e1 z a great inducem5t to prospective pur*as]s1 ! goods are l\dly proclaim$ z dy$ ) 8pure vegetable colors02 & ! fir/ "q commonly ask$ ab\t a pretty piece ( dy$ "w is1 8,are y sure t x is fa/8 ,did y use ! vegetable dyes80 ,z a result ( ?is ignor+ & scorn+ ( ! wond]ful results ( mod]n sci5ce 9 its application to ?is mo/ important indu/ry1 ! "w ( textile craftsm5 all ov] ! _w is f> beh9d ! times1 & comp>atively f> beh9d o!r l9es ( craftwork4 ,nobody expects a mod]n sculptor to d 8 c>v+ ) ! bronze tools us$ by ! old ,a!nians2 nor d we consid] t ! pres5t day work] 9 metals %\ld refra9 f us+ ! mod]n gas furnace1 or limit 8 products to ! few metals & alloys kn[n 9 ! ,middle ,ages1 ignor+ ^? :i* mod]n *emi/ry has develop$4 ,& yet1 all ov] ! _w1 craftsm5 are /ill pott]+ ) long s9ce obsolete dye/uffs & obscure & antiquat$ =mul1 in/ead ( sp5d+ _! en]gies 9 gett+1 ) ! m9imum exp5diture ( "t & tr\ble1 results ( a quality nev] dream$ ( by ! mo/ skilful dy]s ( half a c5tury ago4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 s f> f ,mr4 ,rusk9's e/imate ( ! value ( anci5t dyes be+ correct1 x is actually no m ?an fair to say t h>dly a s+le dye+ process1 kn[n & us$ m ?an fifty ye>s ago1 is ( ! slighte/ practical importance n[ to any "o4 ,,dyes ,,( ,,! ,,anci5ts ,s f> z we c tell1 ! art ( dye+ is an extremely anci5t "o4 ,x seems to h develop$ 9 e c\ntry & to h be5 practis$ by e race ( mank9d1 z soon z t race ceas$ to rely exclusively ^u ! sk9s ( fur-be>+ animals = clo?+ & cov]+s4 ,:]ev] we f9d p us+ wov5 goods1 :e!r vegetable1 l cotton or l951 or animal1 l wool or silk--or :]ev]1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,nor? ,am]ican ,indians1 !y h le>n$ ! art ( dress+ sk9s s z to make !m s(t1 pliable1 & ) a comp>atively smoo? surface1 we f9d at lea/ ! rudim5ts ( ! process ( dye+1 9 ! /a9+ ( ^! mat]ials to add to _! beauty & int]e/4 ,vegetable ,dyes4--,! e>lie/ dyes 7 probably ( vegetable orig91 discov]$ by accid5tally /a9+ g>m5ts ) juices ( fruits or plants4 ,?us1 = in/ance1 9 ! ,bible we read ( 8g>m5ts dy$ 9 ! blood ( grapes02 & we c all call to m9d fruits 9 common use--blackb]ries1 huckleb]ries1 pea*es1 & ! l1 ^: juice c\ld be us$1 if no?+ bett] pres5t$ itself1 to dye or /a9 light-color$ fabrics4 ,9 mo/ cases1 z 9 ^? j m5tion$1 ! colors w\ld be fugitive1 & aft] a %ort "t become dull & un9t]e/+4 ,b 9 ! process ( "t vegetable dyes 7 discov]$1 9 "o "p & ano!r ( ! _w1 :i*1 9 ! h&s ( ^? :o knew h[ to "w ) !m1 gave colors bo? fa/ & beautiful4 ,& ?us grew & develop$ ! art ( ! pr(essional dy]4 ,= in/ance1 9 _m widely sep>at$ c\ntries1 su* z ,india1 ,java1 ,s\? & ,c5tral ,am]ica1 plants are f\nd1 kn[n z indig(]ae1 ^: juices1 yell[ :5 fre%1 rapidly turn blue :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,^! juices imp>t a ri* & p]man5t blue /a9 to objects moi/5$ ) !m :ile !y are /ill yell[2 & ?is blue is ! color+ matt] kn[n z indigo4 ,! plants be>+ x h be5 cultivat$ = hundr$s1 if n1 inde$1 ?\s&s ( ye>s1 & us$ = dye+4 ,g>m5ts & blankets f\nd 9 ! s-call$ ,inca graves 9 ,p]u & ,*ili1 dat+ f long be=e ! ,spani% conque/1 z well z ! olde/ specim5s ( ,h9doo workman%ip1 & ev5 "s ( ! textiles f\nd 9 ! tombs ( ,egypt1 all %[ examples ( ?is same dye/uff4 ,x 0 s valuable t1 9 small quantities & at va/ exp5se1 x 0 import$ by ! ,romans f ,india1 z is %[n by its ,lat9 "n1 ,indicum 7,indian71 f :i* its pres5t "n1 indigo1 is directly d]iv$4 ,b1 curi\sly en\gh1 exactly ! same dye/uff1 b 9 a v impure =m1 & d]iv$ f an entirely diff]5t plant1 ! isatis t9ctoria1 commonly kn[n z woad1 has be5 discov]$ & us$ 9 ,we/]n ,europe f "t immemorial4 ,& :5 ,julius ,cs>1 ne>ly two ?\s& ye>s ago1 l$ a ,roman army = ! fir/ "t across ! *annel into ,engl&1 he f\nd ! native ,britons adorn+ !mselves by sme>+ _! bodies ) a dirty blue dye/uff obta9$ f ?is s\rce4 ,s1 little by little1 ! k ( ^! natural dye/uffs & _! application grew & exp&$4 ,b z a matt] ( fact1 s f> at lea/ z c be ga!r$ f ! old writ]s1 ^? kn[n & us$ by ! anci5t ,greeks & ,romans 7 few 9 numb] & ( comp>atively little int]e/4 ,= blues !y 7 oblig$ to use ! inf]ior color d]iv$1 z above m5tion$1 f ! native woad1 except+ :51 = "s special purposes1 a little indigo 0 import$ f ! ,ea/ at enorm\s exp5se4 ,_! pr9cipal yell[ dye/uff 0 saffron1 :i* is d]iv$ f ! fl[]s ( ! common yell[ crocus4 ,?is gives pleasant1 w>m %ades ( gold5 yell[1 n fa/1 h[ev]1 to ei!r light or wa%+4 ,?is same saffron1 ?\gh long s9ce entirely ab&on$ z a dye/uff1 is /ill us$ 9 small quantities = /a9+ c&y & food/uffs1 & occasionally = m$ic9al purposes4 ,! anci5ts are believ$ to h discov]$ ! dye+ prop]ties ( ! roots ( madd]--rubia t9ctorum--7! dy]'s root71 & to h us$ x 9 small quantities = produc+ purple & br[n &1 possibly1 ev5 r$ %ades1 on cotton & wool4 ,:e!r1 h[ev]1 ! art ( dye+ ! brilliant crimson & sc>let %ades kn[n z ,turkey r$ 0 ev] work$ out be=e ! ,middle ,ages1 is extremely d\btful4 ,animal ,dyes4--,unque/ionably ! be/ r$ dyes kn[n to ! p ( ^? e>ly times 7 ( animal orig91 & 7 us$ = v>i\s %ades ( r$ & ( purple4 ,k]mes4--,"o ( ^!1 call$ k]mes1 is v closely relat$ to ! m important &1 up to a few ye>s ago1 ! v g5]ally us$1 co*9eal1 & to ! lac dye4 ,^! ?ree dye/uffs--k]mes1 co*9eal1 & lac--come to ! m>ket 9 ! =m ( little d>k color$ gra9s1 :i*1 :5 gr\nd up ) hot wat]1 give a bright r$ solution call$ c>m9e1 :i* conta9s a consid]able am\nt ( a color+ kn[n z c>m9ic acid4 ,:5 wool or silk t has be5 previ\sly mordant$--t is1 impregnat$ ) *emical ag5ts2 9 ?is case salts ( t91 alum9ium1 iron1 or copp]--is boil$ 9 "o ( ^! solutions1 x becomes sc>let1 crimson1 purple1 or cl>et color1 accord+ to ! mordant employ$4 ,f ! appe>ance & =m1 z !y come to m>ket1 ( ^! dye/uffs1 ! %ades ?us d]iv$ are commonly kn[n z ! 8gra9 colors40 ,:5 ^! granules are soak$ = "s "t 9 w>m wat] !y swell1 & _! true "* becomes app>5t4 ,!y consi/ ( ! dri$ bodies ( small insects1 kn[n z 8cocci0 7b]ries71 :i* are c>efully cultivat$ on p>ticul> k9ds ( trees or %rubs & :5 full gr[n are bru%$ (f & dri$ = m>ket4 ,!y are v small--! co*9eal gra9s1 :i* are ! mo/ important1 runn+ ab\t #gj1jjj to ! p\nd4 ,k]mes1 :i* 0 ! only "o ( ! ?ree kn[n to ! old ,greeks & ,romans1 consi/s ( ! dri$ bodies ( ! 8coccus ilicis10 a v>iety ( ! insect :i* lives on a species ( oak1 & :i*1 x is said1 is /ill occasionally us$ 9 ,s\!rn ,europe1 & 9 ,morocco1 = dye+ lea!r & wool4 ,tyrian ,purple4--,! mo/ highly priz$ anci5t dye/uff1 & "o conc]n+ :i* mu* int]e/ has always be5 felt1 0 ! s-call$ 8,tyrian purple40 ,?is 0 obta9$ f ! juices ( c]ta9 species ( snails f\nd 9 ! wat]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean ,sea1 &1 inde$1 9 ! ocean wat]s ( _m o!r w>m climates4 ,two species ( ?is class--! murex ,br&>is & ! murex trunculus--7 us$ ext5sively by ! anci5ts1 & great m\nds ( _! %ells1 su* = in/ance z ! s-call$ ,monte ,te/accio at ,t>5tum1 are /ill f\nd along ! %ores at places fam\s1 9 old days1 = _! dye+ e/abli%m5ts4 ,o!r %ellfi% ( ! same g5]al type1 kn[n z purpura lapillus1 are f\nd q abundantly1 n only 9 ! ,m$it]ranean1 b also on our own coa/ & along ! %ores ( ,c5tral & ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,!y h be5 us$ by ! natives 9 ,nic>agua & else:]e1 f "t immemorial1 = obta9+ a simil> color4 ,illu/ration3 ,purpura lapillus ,murex trunculus ,murex ,br&>is ,,fig4 #a--,,%ellfi% ,,us$ ,,by ,,! ,,anci5ts ,,= ,,tyrian ,,purple ,^! %ellfi% 7 s mu* s\ght aft] 9 ! old days t1 by ! "t ( ! e>ly ,middle ,ages1 !y 7 almo/ ext]m9at$1 & ! dye disappe>$ f comm]ce entirely4 ,b1 long be=e t1 9 ! e>ly days ( ! ,roman ,empire1 ! color+ matt] 0 s exp5sive t fabul\s sums 7 paid = clo? or y>ns dy$ ) x1 & its use 0 practically conf9$ to ! imp]ial family4 ,9 fact "o ( ! imp]ial titles 9 ! ,ea/]n empire--purpureog5itus1 8born to ! purple0--0 due to ?is fact4 ,"s int]e/+ in=mation ^u ! value set on ?is dye/uff by ! anci5ts is af=d$ by ! s-call$ ,edict ( ,diocletian1 fragm5ts ( :i*1 engrav$ on /one tablets1 h be5 f\nd 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! old ,roman ,empire1 rang+ f ,egypt to ,asia ,m9or4 ,by ?is edict1 issu$ 9 ,a4,d4 #cja1 ! emp]or ,diocletian attempt$ to fix ! m>ket price ( ! pr9cipal articles ( comm]ce1 = ! ,ea/]n empire4 ,accord+ to ?is1 ! price ( wool1 heavily dy$ ) ?is color1 0 wor? ab\t #cej a p\nd1 9 gold4 ,! dye/uff1 z we le>n f ! description ( ! process by anci5t writ]s1 0 obta9$ f a :iti% or yell[i% liquid f\nd1 two or ?ree drops at a "t1 9 a p>ticul> ve9 9 ! body ( ^! animals4 ,?is juice1 :5 expos$ to air & especially to sun%9e1 =ms ! purple or violet color1 mu* 9 ! "s mann] t ! blue color ( indigo is =m$ f ! yell[ juice ( ! indigo plant4 ,! %ellfi% 9 "q1 hav+ = _m c5turies be5 left undi/urb$1 are n[ q common 9 ! wat]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean1 & are occasionally to be f\nd 9 ! poor] qu>t]s ( ,v5ice & o!r ,italian seaports1 expos$ = sale z food4 ,a ye> or two ago a ,g]man color *emi/1 fam\s = 8 discov]y ( ! brilliant & extremely p]man5t r$di% violet dye/uff1 kn[n z ,?io ,indigo r$ ,b41 made a c>eful inve/igation to see :e!r1 by any *ance1 ?is color ( 8 might happ5 to be ! same z ! fam\s old ,tyrian purple4 ,he manag$ to secure "s twelve ?\s& specim5s ( murex ,br&>is1 &1 ) an imm5se am\nt ( labor1 obta9$ f ^! twelve ?\s& specim5s ab\t tw5ty-"o gra9s ( pure dye/uff4 ,?is he c>efully analyz$ & exp]im5t$ )1 until f9ally he 0 able to prove t1 :ile x 0 n id5tical ) 8 own ,?io ,indigo r$ dye/uff--:i*1 z ! "n %[s1 is a comp\nd ( indigo & sulphur--! ,tyrian purple 0 a simil> comp\nd ( ! same indigo dye/uff1 ) ! comp>atively r>e acid elem5t1 brom9e4 ,9 fact x is :at ! *emi/s w\ld call a brom-indigo2 & ?is same fam\s *emi/1 ,dr4 ,fri$la5d]1 ( ,biebri* on ! ,rh9e1 aft] discov]+ its composition1 amus$ himself by manufactur+ "s ( x artificially2 &1 ) ! artificial reproduction ( ! anci5t ,tyrian purple1 he dy$ "s ske9s ( silk1 z an illu/ration to 8 article detail+ 8 discov]y4 ,n[1 if !re 7 any tru? 9 ! !ory ( ! sup]lative value & beauty ( ^! anci5t dye/uffs1 x is evid5t t ?is r$iscov]y ( ! true & g5u9e ,tyrian purple w\ld h be5 a matt] ( great practical importance4 ,on ! assumption t "o p\nd ( dye/uff w\ld color at lea/ tw5ty p\nds ( wool1 ?is w\ld put ! price ( ! dye itself1 9 ,diocletian's day1 at a pretty high figure4 ,x c n[ be manufactur$1 at a pr(it1 = n ov] "o "o-?\s&? ( :at x co/ 9 ^? days1 n all[+1 ei!r1 = ! diff]5ce 9 value ( money betwe5 !n & n[4 ,& yet ?is fam\s dye1 :i* 0 s highly e/eem$ & ( :i* s mu* has be5 writt51 is s inf]ior 9 color & tone to sev]al ( ! mod]n dye/uffs t x probably w\ld n pay to put x on ! m>ket4 ,dr4 ,fri$la5d]'s samples 71 inde$1 fa/ to bo? light & wa%+1 b _! color %[$ dull &1 to mod]n eyes1 di/9ctly un9t]e/+ %ades ( violet4 ,& !re are already on ! m>ket sev]al violet1 r$ & blue dyes ( ! same g5]al class--! indigo or vat dyes--:i* are q z fa/ to light & wa%+1 & f> sup]ior 9 beauty & brilliancy ( %ade4 ,x is only prop]1 h[ev]1 to /ate t ,dr4 ,fri$la5d]'s inve/igation did n completely cle> up ! subject1 ?\gh !re is no "q b t he really discov]$ ! true ,tyrian purple2 & ! color ( ! specim5s dy$ & exhibit$ by him correspond$ v closely to "s /ill surviv+ f antiquity4 ,among ! f9e collections ( textiles f ! ,egyptian tombs t are 9 ! ,metropolitan ,museum ( ,art 9 ,new ,york ,city1 are "s excell5t examples ( ,tyrian purple4 ,^! are :at ! ,greeks us$ to call 8di-bapha10 or d\ble dy$--i4e41 dy$ v deep1 full %ades ( d>k purple4 ,:ile a wond]ful example ( ! light]1 violet1 %ades ( ! same dye c be se5 9 a fam\s manuscript1 kn[n z 8,! ,gold5 ,gospels10 n[ 9 ,mr4 ,j4 ,pi]pont ,morgan's collection 9 ! same city1 b :i* 0 giv5 ab\t #aebj1 by ,pope ,leo ,x to ,k+ ,h5ry ,,viii4 ,?is 0 writt51 9 gold5 *>act]s1 ^u vellum dy$ ) ,tyrian purple1 & ! %ades ( ! latt] correspond q closely ) ! violet ( ! artificial brom-indigo comp\nd4 ,on ! o!r h& !re is evid5ce to %[ t ! anci5ts 7 also able to obta91 ) ! same ,tyrian purple dye1 p]haps f ! %ellfi% purpura lapillus1 fa/ & brilliant %ades ( sc>let1 z well z ^! r dull tones ( violet & purple4 ,9 ! days ( ! ,roman ,empire1 z above m5tion$1 ! use ( 8purple0 g>m5ts 0 d5i$ to all b ! imp]ial family2 b lat]1 aft] ! rise ( ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur*1 ! ecclesia/ics ga9$ suffici5t p[] to obta9 ?is privilege = !mselves4 ,& to ?is day ! c>d9als ( ! ,roman ,ca?olic ,*ur* are call$ 8porporati0 on acc\nt ( ! 8purple0 or1 z we w\ld say1 sc>let1 color ( _! *>act]i/ic robes4 ,s1 :5ev] we see ! r$ robes ( a high dignit>y ( ! *ur* we are probably look+ at "o ( ! t9ts ( ! real old ,tyrian purple1 al?\gh ! art ( actually produc+ x has long s9ce be5 lo/2 &1 if r$iscov]$1 w\ld probably be ( z little practical value z ,dr4 ,fri$la5d]'s rem>kable inve/igation4 ,,! ,,dyes ,,( ,,our ,,ance/ors ,betwe5 ! days ( ! anci5t ,greeks & ,romans1 & ! discov]y ( ! fir/ anil9e dye 9 #ahef1 _m & important additions 7 made to ! li/ ( available dye/uffs1 "s ( :i* h cont9u$ 9 use1 = special purposes1 up to ! pres5t day4 ,indian ,dyes4--,! op5+ ( trade to ! ,f> ,ea/1 due to ! discov]y ( ! sea r\te r\nd ! ,cape ( ,good ,hope1 br\ght to ,europe ! free use ( "s ( ! ,indian dye/uffs4 ,indigo1 = in/ance1 0 introduc$ = ! fir/ "t 9 consid]able quantities1 &1 aft] mu* opposition1 completely took ! place ( ! mu* inf]ior native dye/uff1 woad4 ,= yell[1 ! old saffron dye 0 sup]s$$ by ! m p[]ful1 b /ill r fugitive1 turm]ic1 or ,indian saffron4 ,?is came f ! root ( ! curcuma t9ctoria1 a plant freely gr[n to ?is day 9 bo? ,india & ,*9a4 ,! saffl[] 0 also import$ f ,india2 ?is is a k9d ( ?i/le1 c>?amus t9ctorum1 ! dri$ heads ( fl[]s ( :i* 7 l>gely us$ = dye+ pretty %ades ( p9k ^u cotton1 directly--t is1 )\t any mordant+ process4 ,?is color1 too1 is comp>atively fugitive to light1 & has almo/ disappe>$ f sight4 ,( m importance 7 ! s-call$ r$ woods1 :i* came p>tly f ,india & p>tly f ! ea/ & we/ coa/s ( ,africa2 & ( :i* ! mo/ important are ! s&al wood1 b> wood1 & cam wood4 ,! wood ( ea* ( ^! trees probably conta9s ! same color+ matt]4 ,! color is n v easy to extract1 b :5 us$ ) mordants ( *romium1 alum9ium1 or t9 salts1 x dyes wool v>i\s %ades ( r$ & r$di%-br[n4 ,^! colors are v fa/ to mill+--9 o!r words to ! action ( alkalies :5 ! wool is f9i%$ 9 ! manufacture ( broadclo?2 b !y are n p>ticul>ly fa/ to light1 & = ?is reason1 z well z because ( _! great] exp5se1 !y h be5 = ! mo/ "p ab&on$4 ,f ,india1 too1 7 introduc$ ! well-kn[n br[n dyes kn[n z cut* 7cate*u7 & gambi]4 ,^! come to ! m>ket 9 ! =m ( d>k color$ pa/es1 =m$ by evaporat+ infusions ( leaves1 se$ pods1 nuts1 & sometimes ! wood ( v>i\s species ( acacia & areca trees4 ,!y conta9 l>ge am\nts ( a peculi> v>iety ( ! sub/ance kn[n z tann9 or tannic acid1 :i* is widely di/ribut$ among _m plants1 & :i* is v useful 9 dye+1 z w be describ$ lat]4 ,! br[n color+ matt] has be5 isolat$1 & is call$ cate*94 ,bo? cut* & gambi] w dye cotton & wool ri* %ades ( br[n1 :i* are q fa/ to light :5 aft]-treat$ ) copp] or *romium salts4 ,dyes f ! ,new ,_w4--,! discov]y ( ,am]ica1 & ! coloniz+ & op5+ to trade ( ,s\? ,am]ica & ! ,we/ ,indies1 9 ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 /ill fur!r enl>g$ ! field = dy]s4 ,co*9eal4--,"o ( ! fir/ dyes introduc$ f !re 0 co*9eal1 a 8gra9 color10 simil> to k]mes1 already describ$1 consi/+ ( ! dri$ bodies ( an insect kn[n z coccus cacti1 because x lives ^u c]ta9 k9d ( cactus :i* are native to ,mexico & ,c5tral ,am]ica4 ,?is dye/uff 0 l>gely us$ = dye+ wool & silk goods1 & produc$ fairly fa/ %ades ( crimson or ( sc>let1 accord+ to ! mordant employ$4 ,b x has be5 replac$ almo/ entirely n[ by ! v>i\s acid dyes1 to be describ$ lat]1 :i* are *eap]1 are mu* easi] to apply1 & are ( equal &1 9 _m cases1 ( mu* great]1 fa/ness to light4 ,"o ( ! few cases :]e co*9eal is /ill us$ on a l>ge scale is 9 ,engl&1 :]e ! sc>let coats ( ! ,briti% regul>s are dy$ ) ?is color1 on a t9 mordant4 ,x is believ$1 h[ev]1 t ?is is n due to any real or fanci$ sup]iority ( ! old dye ov] _m ( ! mod]n colors1 b simply to ! t]ms ( an old 8p]petual0 contract1 :i*1 a hundr$ & fifty ye>s or m ago1 gave ! privilege ( dye+ ! ,engli% 8r$coats0 to "o p>ticul> firm & _! successors1 on condition t !y use ?is dye & none o!r4 ,al?\gh bo? dy]s & gov]nm5t w\ld pr(it by ! use ( mod]n dyes1 ! t]ms ( ! old contract are /ill rigidly adh]$ to = fe> ( los+ ! monopoly4 ,lac ,dye4--,! simil> dye/uff call$ lac dye1 :i* _h be5 kn[n & us$ 9 ,india = hundr$s ( ye>s1 0 introduc$ into ,europe t[>ds ! end ( ! eighte5? c5tury4 ,x also is ! body ( a small insect1 ! coccus laccae1 :i* lives on ! twigs ( ! banyan tree1 & o!r v>ieties ( fig trees4 ,:5 ^! twigs are brok5 (f & dri$ to kill ! insect1 !re is f\nd pres5t on !m1 along ) ! color+ matt]1 a l>ge am\nt ( a peculi> res9\s or gummy sub/ance1 :i*1 :5 extract$ & purifi$1 is kn[n & widely us$1 z 8%ellac40 ,lac dye 0 us$ 9 practically ! same way z co*9eal1 & produc$1 ^u wool1 sc>let1 orange1 & crimson %ades1 :i* 7 fa/] & m solid1 b n z brilliant1 z ! co*9eal4 ,x is n[ us$ b r>ely1 ev5 9 ! ,ea/1 hav+ be5 l>gely sup]s$$1 !re1 by brilliant b1 un=tunately1 9 _m cases1 *eap & wor?less mod]n dye/uffs4 ,fu/ic4--,f ,am]ica1 also1 came ! excell5t yell[ dye/uff1 8fu/ic10 yield$ by ! tree commonly call$ yell[ wood1 ,cuba wood1 etc4 ,its true botanical "n1 h[ev]1 is *lorophora t9ctoria1 & x 0 l>gely us$ = dye+1 ei!r directly 9 ! =m ( *ips1 or z a solid or liquid extract made f ! wood4 ,x 0 pr9cipally us$ ) mordants ( alum9ium or t9 salts1 = dye+ wool bright1 fa/ %ades ( yell[1 or1 ) ! aid ( bi*romate ( pota% z a mordant1 = obta9+ mix$ %ades1 9 conjunction ) indigo1 cut*1 madd]1 & logwood4 ,x has be5 almo/ entirely replac$ n[ by fa/ mod]n dye/uffs4 ,logwood4--,! mo/ important ( all ^! dye/uffs1 & ! only "o /ill us$ on a l>ge scale1 is logwood1 a dye extract$ f ! wood ( q a l>ge tree1 ! haematoxylon ,campe*ianum 7! 8blood-r$ wood f ,campea*y071 :i* gr[s freely 9 ! ,we/ ,indies & ,c5tral ,am]ican /ates4 ,x 0 discov]$ & us$ by ! ,spani>ds e>ly 9 ! sixte5? c5tury1 & 9 ,que5 ,elizabe?'s reign 0 introduc$ into ,engl&1 mu* aga9/ ! wi%es ( ! old] s*ool ( dy]s :o furi\sly d5\nc$ x z produc+ fugitive colors1 & _h its use prohibit$ by ,act ( ,p>liam5t4 ,x 0 ov] a hundr$ ye>s be=e ! real value ( ! dye/uff 0 appreciat$1 & ?is law 0 repeal$4 ,! op]ation ( extract+ ! color+ matt] f ! wood itself1 ( :i* x =ms only "s ?ree p] c5t4 by weight1 is a tr\blesome & delicate "o4 ,! logs are *ipp$ or rasp$ into f9e pieces1 !n moi/5$ & pil$ 9 heaps & ! color develop$ by a process ( f]m5tation4 ,accord+ly1 extracts ( logwood h be5 put on ! m>ket by v>i\s l>ge firms1 especially ( late ye>s1 &1 :ile ! use ( ! wood itself by dy]s has = ! mo/ "p be5 ab&on$1 ^! extracts are widely us$ = dye+ blacks ^u silk1 9 spite ( !re n[ be+ _m excell5t acid blacks4 ,! dye+ process1 too1 is r complicat$1 = ! goods mu/ be c>efully mordant$ be=e dye+1 ) salts ( iron1 *romium1 or t94 ,= ?is reason wool is r>ely dy$ ) logwood4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 /ill us$ = silk dye+1 p>tly because x gives v full1 deep1 p]man5t %ades ( black1 b pr9cipally because1 by us+ "o mordant aft] ano!r be=e dye+1 x is possible to increase enorm\sly ! weight ( ! dy$ silk1 at v mod]ate exp5se4 ,turkey ,r$4--,! use ( madd] :i*1 z be=e m5tion$1 0 probably kn[n to ! anci5ts1 0 greatly develop$ dur+ ! sixte5? & sev5te5? c5turies1 ow+ to ! introduction f ! ne> ,ea/ ( ! s-call$ ,turkey r$ process = obta9+1 ^u cotton & wool1 v fa/ & v brilliant %ades ( sc>let4 ,! process took "s ?ree mon?s1 & consi/$ ( an elaborate s]ies ( mordant+ op]ations1 be=e ! dye+ prop] began4 ,! goods 7 fir/ soak$ 9 a ba? ( "s fatty mat]ial1 su* z milk or1 lat]1 rancid olive oil1 & !n dri$ c>efully4 ,aft] ?is !y 7 soak$ 9 a ba? ( alum & !n 9 limewat]1 or a *alk ba?--& ^! op]ations 7 repeat$ ov] & ov]1 ) v>i\s manipulations 9 betwe54 ,f9ally1 ! mordant$ mat]ial 0 dy$ by boil+ x 9 a ba? conta9+ ! f9ely-gr\nd madd] root1 & !n 8bright5$0 by wa%+ out1 9 a boil+ soap ba?1 all ! loose color & ! unfix$ mordant4 ,?is process 0 repeat$ until ! prop] %ade 0 rea*$4 ,dur+ ! e>ly "p ( ! n9ete5? c5tury1 v>i\s extracts ( madd] 7 made1 by treat+ ! gr\nd root ) /rong sulphuric acid & o!r ag5ts1 :i* de/roy$ ! woody tissues & o!r in]t matt]1 )\t injur+ ! color+ matt]4 ,! dye+ process also 0 greatly simplifi$ & %ort5$4 ,lat] ! real active pr9ciples ( ! madd] root 7 inve/igat$1 & f\nd to be two cry/all9e bodies nam$ aliz>9e & purpur9e1 respectively4 ,& f9ally1 sev]al ye>s aft] anil9e dye/uffs _h be5 discov]$ & manufactur$1 two ,g]man *emi/s1 ,graebe & ,lieb]mann1 discov]$ a me?od = mak+ ^! v id5tical sub/ances out ( coal t>4 ,s9ce t "t ! cultivation & use ( madd] has disappe>$ almo/ entirely4 ,b real ,turkey r$ is manufactur$ to-day1 & 9 v l>ge quantities--&1 ?\gh freely imitat$ by inf]ior products1 ! mod]n ,turkey r$ is j z fa/ to light & to wa%+ z x ev] 0 9 ! pa/1 & possesses a brilliance & a lu/re :i* nev] c\ld h be5 obta9$ =m]ly4 ,! process1 h[ev]1 is complet$ n[ 9 h\rs1 n days1 & in/ead ( yield+ a few %ades ( r$ & purple1 ! aliz>9e colors h be5 add$ to until !y cov] a l>ge range ( blues1 purples1 r$s1 oranges1 yell[s1 & br[ns1 all ( !m z fa/ z ! orig9al ,ea/]n products1 & all ( !m made f coal t>4 ,! dyes already m5tion$ 7 ! ones :i*1 aft] hundr$s ( ye>s ( exp]im5t1 prov$ to be ( di/9ct value4 ,_m ( !m 7 exp5sive 9 !mselves &1 9 almo/ e case1 ! process ( dye+ ) !m 0 a q complicat$ "o1 work$ out by g5]ations ( practical dy]s1 & pass$ d[n f fa!r to son z a preci\s trade secret4 ,besides ^! !re 71 9 almo/ e community1 c]ta9 special =mul & recipes = obta9+1 by comp>atively simple me?ods1 dyes ( v>y+ degrees ( value f m or less common vegetable mat]ials4 ,"s ( ^! are occasionally met ) to ?is day4 ,?us1 9 ! prov9ce ( ,quebec1 well d[n on ! ,/4 ,lawr5ce1 ! ,fr5* ,canadian wom5 /ill dye _! homespun wor/$s an orange %ade ( yell[1 ( v mod]ate fa/ness to light1 by boil+ !m ) ! sk9s ( ! yell[ or br[n onions4 ,& !y get a pretty1 b fugitive1 %ade ( gold5 yell[ by us+ ! dri$ fl[]s ( ! gold5rod4 ,"s recipes f ! m\nta9 di/ricts ( ,nor? ,c>ol9a1 :]e ! %eep are rais$ & %e>$1 & ! wool c>d$1 spun1 dy$1 & wov5 into homespun1 are unique1 & wool dy$ ) !m %[s extremely good color4 ,?us1 = gre51 we are told to 8,git blackjack or black oak b>k1 & bile x "r good1 & put 9 a li'l piece ( alum4 ,?is makes ! pur'tie/ gre51 mighty nigh1 t ev] 040 ,& = purple & black ! in/ructions are to 8git maple b>k & bile x4 ,?r[ 9 a gra9 ( copp]as & put 9 y\r wool4 ,bile x j s long if y want purple1 & long] if y want black4 ,! long] y bile x ! d>k] x gits40 ,recipes l ^! c be pick$ up 9 c\ntry di/ricts all ov] ! l& to ?is day1 & :]e no o!r color+ ag5ts c be obta9$1 !y may /ill be ( "s use4 ,!y are to be comp>$1 h[ev]1 to ! some:at simil> recipes ( ! h]b or 8y>b0 doctor1 n[ almo/ ext9ct1 :o concoct$ v>i\s brews & teas & messes f roots & leaves1 & adm9i/]$ !m z valuable rem$ies4 ,useful ^! brews und\bt$ly 7 9 _! day1 :5 x 0 impossible to get bett] m$ic9es at any price1 & ! available drugs1 ev5 9 l>ge cities1 7 few & co/ly & b little und]/ood4 ,b :o ( u w\ld n[ pref] to treat a s]i\s illness ) h]b tea :5 )9 rea* ( ev5 a ?ird-class drug /ore8 ,& s to-day1 :5 mod]n dye/uffs1 ev5 if n ( ! v be/ v>ieties1 c be b\ght 9 packages at ! ne>e/ groc]y or druggi/1 :o has "t to wa/e ^u ! labori\s processes & messy1 unc]ta9 =mul ( =m] & unsci5tific ages8 ,,m9]al ,,dyes ,tribes & nations 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w seem1 at a comp>atively e>ly date1 to h f\nd out ! art ( color+ & /a9+ textiles ) m9]al comp\nds4 ,iron spr+s1 conta9+ iron salts 9 solution1 are f\nd 9 _m c\ntries2 & su* spr+s are always notewor?y f ! ta/e ( ! wat]s1 & ! color ( ! s$im5ts left :5 ! wat] /&s expos$ to ! air4 ,!re=e discov]y ( ! fact t ^? wat]s w\ld imp>t a p]man5t & q pleas+ orange or r$di%-br[n color to textiles 0 p]fectly natural4 ,iron ,buff4--,accord+ly1 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w1 p le>n$ to dip clo?s 9 ^! spr+s & !n expose !m to ! air1 ?us dye+ !m ?is iron ru/ color1 commonly call$ by dy]s 8iron buff40 ,:5 iron became a common metal1 x 0 f\nd t any soluble salt ( iron w\ld act z a dye+ solution1 j z well z a natural iron spr+2 & h5ce we f9d use made1 9 widely sep>at$ c\ntries1 ( iron salts = dye+4 ,?is iron buff is us$ to ?is day1 ?\gh ( c\rse x has lo/ ! importance x _h 9 ! pa/4 ,! r$ sails ( ! fi%]m5 9 ! ,m$it]ranean %[ ?is color2 & x is a useful & int]e/+ dye = weav]s ( h&-made rugs1 curta9s1 & ! l1 because ( its pleas+ tone & great p]man5ce4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x is v likely to rub2 & x fills ! fibre ( ! clo? ) m9]al matt]1 !reby mak+ ! mat]ial /iff & h>d to sew or cut4 ,prep>ation4--,our colonial ance/ors made ?is color *eaply en\gh4 ,!y c>efully sav$ all ! scraps ( iron & /eel t !y c\ld f9d--old horse%oes1 brok5 knife blades1 etc41 etc4--& plac$ !m 9 a b>rel half fill$ ) v9eg> & wat]4 ,little by little ! iron dissolv$ 9 ! acid &1 :5 x 0 /rong en\gh1 ! h\sewife w\ld soak h] homespun clo?1 or o!r mat]ial1 9 ! solution1 w>m+ & /irr+ x1 & mak+ x absorb z mu* ( ! liquor z possible4 ,!n %e w\ld take x out1 wr+ x ?or\ghly1 r9se x slightly1 & dip x = a m9ute or two 9 ano!r b>rel half fill$ ) a wat] extract ( wood a%es4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,ii4 ,,japanese ,,t[ell+1 ,,%[+ ,,impression ,,( ,,fre% ,,damp ,,leaves ,aft] remov+ f ! solution & wr++ aga91 ! goods 7 %ak5 out & expos$ to ! air = "s m9utes1 dur+ :i* "t ! color w\ld develop--9 o!r words1 w\ld make its f9al *ange to yell[ or orange1 or ev5 to br[ni%-r$1 accord+ to ! am\nt ( iron absorb$ by ! fibre4 ,! process1 n[adays1 is mu* ! same1 except+ t1 = ! fir/ or iron ba?1 x is *eap] & easi] to use a solution ( ! gre5 cry/all9e iron salt1 kn[n z copp]as1 or z f]r\s 7iron7 sulphate4 ,?is c be obta9$ at1 or ?r\gh1 any drug /ore at a v l[ price1 z x is n necess>y to buy a *emically pure product4 ,! ord9>y comm]cial salt is z pure z ! "w requires2 ?is dissolves q readily 9 w>m wat]4 ,! am\nt ( copp]as to be us$1 to dye a p>ticul> lot ( mat]ial a p>ticul> %ade1 c only be det]m9$ by exp]i5ce & exp]im5t4 ,x is always easy to build up a color1 i4e41 to deep5 its %ade if x is too light1 by dipp+ ! fabric ov] aga9 9 ! same dye-ba?4 ,inde$ !re is a g5]al rule to be obs]v$ 9 dye+ all colors l ?is iron buff or ! manganese br[n--z well z ! sulphur & indigo colors1 :i* w be describ$ lat]--t are develop$1 or fix$1 by exposure to ! air4 ,:5ev] d>k %ades ( ^! colors are desir$1 !y %\ld be produc$ by successive dipp+s 9 weak ba?s1 r ?an by "o or two dipp+s 9 /rong ba?s4 ,?is avoids rubb+1 z f> z possible1 & less5s ! injury to ! clo? fibre4 ,9 g5]al1 x is be/ to />t ) a dye-ba? conta9+ "s ?ree or f\r tablespoonfuls ( copp]as to "o gallon ( hot wat]4 ,= ! second1 or fix+1 ba?--t is1 ! alkali ba?--x is n[ cu/om>y to use a solution ( soda in/ead ( ! extract made f wood a%es4 ,ei!r cook+ soda 7bic>bonate ( soda7 or ! /rong] wa%+ soda or soda cry/als1 kn[n to ! *emi/ z c>bonate ( soda1 w be satisfactory1 & in/ead ( soda ! correspond+ pota% salts may be us$1 ?\gh ^! are usually m exp5sive4 ,x is possible1 too1 to use a ba? ( ! s-call$ cau/ic soda1 or cau/ic pota%1 kn[n to ! *emi/ z hydroxide ( soda & hydroxide ( pota%4 ,b ^!1 z ! "n implies1 mu/ be h&l$ ) c>e because1 :5 /rong1 !y are likely to burn ! h&s & clo!s4 ,c>eful analyses ( dy$ mummy clo?s %[ t ! anci5t ,egyptians 7 accu/om$ to use = _! second or fix+ ba?1 a solution ( slak$ lime1 or lime wat]4 ,khaki4--,by mix+ 9 ! fir/ ba? ( copp]as or o!r iron salt an equal quantity ( *rome alum1 & !n fix+ & develop+ z above1 a c]ta9 am\nt ( gre5i% *romium oxide is deposit$ 9 ! fibre along ) ! oxide ( iron4 ,?is gives rise to ! %ade kn[n z 8khaki40 ,sometimes %ad$ a little ) manganese br[n1 ?is 0 ! regul> dye = ! army uni=ms1 until ! rec5t introduction ( ! extremely fa/ & v satisfactory vat dyes4 ,uses4--,iron buff is *iefly us$ = cotton1 l951 & o!r vegetable fabrics2 on !m x gives pleasant1 w>m %ades ( orange & r$di%-br[n4 ,b on wool1 & especially on silk1 x is n s satisfactory1 ow+ to its t5d5cy to r\gh5 & injure ! fibre4 ,inde$1 9 ! case ( silk1 x is likely to greatly dim9i%1 or ev5 to de/roy1 ! lu/re4 ,on cotton & l951 h[ev]1 x has great fa/ness to light & to wa%+4 ,inde$1 e "o :o has tri$ to get ru/ /a9s out ( a g>m5t or a piece ( table l95 kn[s h[ h>d a matt] x is to get rid ( ! color4 ,ano!r important reason = us+ ?is dye is t ! color+ ag5ts are v *eap1 & are easily obta9$ 9 any quantities4 ,x has1 h[ev]1 "s s]i\s disadvantages1 "o ( :i* is t ! color1 especially 9 d>k %ades1 is v liable to rub4 ,?is c be/ be obviat$ by build+ up ! %ades ) successive dipp+s2 & by ?or\ghly wa%+ ! f9i%$ goods 9 a hot soap ba?4 ,! dy$ goods are pretty c]ta9 to be a little /iff1 & !re=e h>d to sew or cut1 ow+ to ! fact t ! f9al color is compos$ ( iron ru/4 ,:5 vegetable fibres are fill$ ) a m9]al matt] !y are naturally /iff] & h>d] ?an !y 7 orig9ally4 ,!n !re is ! f9al objection on ! "p ( pr(essional dy]s to ?is color1 z well z to all ! o!r develop$ colors1 i4e41 ^? colors fix$ by exposure to ! air4 ,x is n easy to get a smoo?1 ev5 color ) !m1 & x is v difficult to dye to %ade4 ,= h&icraft "w1 :]e ^! two po9ts are ( m9or importance z comp>$ ) ! beauty ( ! color1 ?is objection is n s s]i\s1 b :]e x is necess>y to dye l>ge am\nts ( y>n or clo? to a def9ite %ade ) ?is1 or simil>1 dyes1 x is1 z a rule1 f> easi] to use a dye/uff :i* does n mat]ially *ange its %ade aft] ! goods leave ! dye-ba?4 ,iron ,grey4--,soon aft] ! discov]y1 9 diff]5t localities1 ( ! iron buff color1 x 0 discov]$ t by ! action ( v>i\s vegetable extracts ^u ! iron salts1 d>k grey /a9s c\ld be produc$ :i*1 "u c]ta9 conditions1 w\ld be fairly fa/ to light & wa%+4 ,?is color 01 lat]1 f\nd to be due to ! comb9ation ) iron ( ! peculi> vegetable acid call$ tannic acid or tann94 ,?is is f\nd 9 small quantities 9 ! juices ( twigs & leaves ( _m v>ieties ( plants1 &1 until ! introduction ( ! mod]n dye/uffs1 ?is process (f]$ ! *ief me?od ( obta9+ grey or black %ades ^u cotton4 ,at pres5t x is r>ely1 if ev]1 us$ = t purpose1 b ! comp\nd is /ill ! basis ( mo/ ( ! writ+ inks on ! m>ket4 ,to make ?is color1 ! clo? is soak$ = "s "t 9 a solution ( an iron salt--nitrate ( iron1 =m$ by boil+ a solution ( copp]as = a m9ute or two ) a few drops ( nitric acid1 is pref]able to ! untreat$ copp]as--& !n1 aft] be+ wrung & slightly r9s$1 x is plung$ into a ba? conta9+ tannic acid4 ,?is c be made by dissolv+ a few tablespoonfuls ( ! dry tannic acid 9 "s wat]1 or by mak+ a hot infusion ( ! leaves1 twigs1 or b>k ( any plant or tree conta9+ x4 ,tea leaves conta9 mu* tann91 & s d unripe ,engli% walnuts & butt]nuts4 ,acorns1 oak leaves ) nut galls on !m1 ! gre5 twigs ( ald]s1 & hazelnut bu%es1 h all be5 us$ to =m ?is color4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,,iii4 ,,same ,,t[ell+ ,,z ,,9 ,,plate ,,ii1 ,,aft] ,,imm]sion ,,9 ,,iron ,,spr+4 ,,! ,,r\nd ,,:ite ,,patt]ns ,,are ,,made ,,by ,,tie+ ,! grey color quickly develops &1 aft] r9s+1 ! mat]ial c be dri$ & press$1 or dipp$ aga9 to obta9 a deep] %ade1 fir/ into ! iron & !n into ! tann9 ba?4 ,! color is a pleasant1 s(t %ade ( grey or1 if dy$ deeply1 a black4 ,x is fa/ to wa%+1 & fairly s to light1 ?\gh x may become ru/y on /&+2 l ! iron buff1 x is n fa/ to acids4 ,"s int]e/+ examples ( ! dye+ ( cotton clo? ) iron buff & iron grey are %[n 9 ,plate ,i4 ,!y came f ! m9]al spr+s at ,arima1 ne> ,kobe 9 ,japan1 :]e ! wat]s are s saturat$ ) iron salts1 t comp>atively %ort imm]sion1 & exposure to air1 w br+ out a deep orange %ade4 ,! ,japanese1 n cont5t ) dye+ _! goods pla9 colors1 h = _m g5]ations utiliz$ ^! spr+s 9 ! production ( figures & designs on ! clo?4 ,plate ,v is an example ( /5cil "w1 :]e ! :ite patt]ns are made by cov]+ p>ts ( ! clo? ) a 8resi/ pa/e0 :i* protects :atev] x is 9 contact ) f ! action ( ! color+ ag5t4 ,plate ,,ii %[s a piece ( s(t calico on :i* impressions ( leaves h be5 made by plac+ fre% juicy leaves betwe5 two pieces ( clo?1 & beat+ !m ) wood5 mallets4 ,plate ,,iii %[s ! same piece ( clo? z 9 ,plate ,,ii1 aft] imm]sion 9 ! iron spr+1 & exposure to air4 ,! tann9 f ! leaf juice conv]ts "s ( ! iron oxide into iron grey2 :ile ! :ite figures are made by ty+ ! clo? ) /r+ or tape 7,ti$ & ,dy$ "w7 be=e dye+ x4 ,s f> z we c tell1 ^! two 7 ! only m9]al colors kn[n to ! anci5ts4 ,sev]al o!r m9]al colors1 h[ev]1 7 9 common use by ! cotton dy]s 9 ! days prec$+ ! introduction ( mod]n dye/uffs1 b x is h>dly wor? :ile to dwell "h on _m ( !m4 ,yell[ & orange %ades 7 obta9$ by impregnat+ clo? ) lead salts1 & !n develop+ ) a ba? ( *romate or bi*romate ( pota%1 ) m or less cau/ic alkali add$ = ! d>k] %ades4 ,prussian blue1 too1 0 us$ z a sub/itute = ! m exp5sive indigo4 ,?is 0 =m$ by us+ ! nitrate ( iron = ! fir/ ba?1 & !n develop+ ! color ) a ba? ( yell[ prussiate 7f]rocyanide7 ( pota%4 ,^! colors1 h[ev]1 are s f> inf]ior 9 _! application1 & 9 fa/ness to light & to rubb+1 to ! colors n[ at our comm&1 t !y h disappe>$ entirely = textile "w1 ?\gh !y are /ill widely us$ = pigm5ts4 ,manganese ,bronze 7,manganese ,br[n1 ,bi/re74--,!re is "o good m9]al color1 h[ev]1 :i* came into use e>ly 9 ! la/ c5tury & :i*1 :ile h>dly ev] us$ by pr(essional dy]s1 is ( int]e/ to craftsm54 ,?is color1 9 its *emical composition1 greatly resembles ! iron buff4 ,x is q *eaply produc$ by fir/ impregnat+ ! clo? to be dy$ ) a solution ( a manganese salt 7manganese *loride is ! *eape/71 & !n1 by means ( a second ba? ( alkali1 =m+ a deposit on ! fibre ( p9k manganese hydroxide--correspond+ to ! gre5i% f]r\s hydroxide--:i*1 on exposure to ! air1 absorbs oxyg5 & =ms ! f9al br[n color4 ,un=tunately ! alkali us$ 9 ?is case mu/ be cau/ic alkali--potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide--& n "o ( ! mild alkalies l ! c>bonates or bic>bonates1 :i* w d = ! iron color4 ,&1 !re=e1 al?\gh x is r m exp5sive1 & is some:at liable to weak5 ! fabric1 x is g5]ally m conv5i5t to obta9 ?is color by a "o-ba? process4 ,a purple solution ( ! salt kn[n z p]manganate ( pota%1 is prep>$ & ! clo? dipp$4 ,aft] be+ imm]s$ x is wrung c>efully & %ak5 out1 & ! r$ or purpli% color gradually *anges into ! f9al br[n4 ,z soon z ?is *ange has tak5 place ! goods %\ld be plung$ into a hot soap ba? & ?or\ghly sc\r$1 bo? to remove any loosely adh]+ p>ticles ( color :i* cause rubb+1 & to prev5t t5d]+ ( ! clo?4 ,! latt] dang]1 h[ev]1 is always pres5t ) ?is process &1 !re=e1 full %ades %\ld n be dy$ except+ on heavy1 /rong goods l rugs or v co>se y>ns or clo?4 ,ev5 !n x %\ld be done c>efully & by successive dipp+s1 ) a c>eful wa%+1 aft] ! color has be5 develop$ 9 ! air1 betwe5 ea* ba?4 ,?is injury to ! clo? :i*1 hi!rto1 has be5 ! great drawback to ! p]manganate process1 c be avoid$ by dipp+ ! goods1 z soon z possible aft] leav+ ! dye-ba?s1 into a solution conta9+ glucose1 z1 = in/ance1 two or ?ree spoonfuls ( ,k>o 7corn syrup7 or molasses 9 ea* gallon ( hot wat]4 ,directly ! purple-/a9$ clo? t\*es ?is solution ! color *anges to br[n1 )\t affect+ ! /r5g? ( ! mat]ials4 ,?is color1 l ! o!r m9]al colors1 is r>ely1 if ev]1 to be us$ on silk1 be+ altoge!r too likely to injure ! texture & ! lu/re ( ! mat]ial4 ,9 at lea/ "o in/ance1 h[ev]1 x has be5 us$ on animal fibres ) consid]able success4 ,dur+ ! critical "p ( ! ,bo] w>1 x 0 at "o "t necess>y = ,engl& to put z _m ( h] troops z possible--especially h] m\nt$ troops--into ! field4 ,among o!rs ! ,scots ,greys1 di/+ui%$ at ,wat]loo & made fam\s 9 _m o!r bloody campaigns z a f9e old fight+ regim5t1 7 ord]$ to ! front4 ,!re is a tradition1 dat+ back ov] two hundr$ ye>s1 t ! horses ( ?is regim5t mu/ all be ei!r :ite or grey 9 color4 ,"s heav5-s5t g5ius at ! ,horse ,gu>ds--! ,engli% ,w> ,dep>tm5t--h9t$ q =cibly to ! au?orities t to s5d out a cavalry regim5t on :ite horses to face ! ,bo] %>p%oot]s1 0 r a dang]\s exp]im5t4 ,! au?orities1 !re=e1 consult$ a well-kn[n dye+ *emi/4 ,he advis$ !m to s5d d[n1 on ! troop%ip1 "s kegs ( p]manganate2 & to in/ruct ! (fic]s & m5 to sponge ea* horse ) a weak solution ( ! salt1 e day at 8,/ables40 ,?is 0 done1 &1 9 consequ5ce1 long be=e rea*+ ,cape ,t[n1 ! sk9 & hair ( e horse 0 ?or\ghly color$ a s(t1 quiet %ade ( br[n4 ,! color produc$ by p]manganate v>ies1 accord+ to ! /r5g? ( ! solution1 or r ) ! numb] ( dips 9 comp>atively weak solutions1 f a light br[ni% tan to a full1 ri*1 s(t1 seal br[n4 ,pleasant %ades1 too1 c be obta9$ by dye+ fir/ ) ! iron ru/ dye & !n cov]+ ) ! p]manganate4 ,?is color is dis*>g$1 n only f textiles b f ! h&s1 by soak+ 9 a solution ( sodium hydrosulphite 7commonly us$ 9 dye+ indigo7 & !n wa%+4 ,,practical ,,dye+ ,be=e proce$+ to ! practical dye+ in/ruction x is well to say a few words ab\t ! equipm5t ne$$ = ! "w4 ,=tunately no elaborate or exp5sive outfit is necess>y1 ev5 = ! beg9n]4 ,& aft] "o has _h a little exp]i5ce1 x is a/oni%+ :at an am\nt ( int]e/+1 & ev5 important "w c be turn$ out ) a few ( ! v simple/ ut5sils4 ,! ess5tials may be set d[n z foll[s3 ,dye-pots4 ,heat+ devices4 ,/irr+ rods1 or dye-/icks4 ,wr+]s4 ,dry+ arrangem5ts4 ,dye-pots4--,= ?is purpose1 common agatew>e vessels are be/ & mo/ conv5i5t4 ,!re %\ld be v>y+ sizes to accommodate diff]5t am\nts ( mat]ial to be dy$4 ,! s-call$ 8m9]'s cups10 :i* are agatew>e cups hold+ a p9t or m1 are l>ge en\gh = practical "w1 :5 s+le ske9s are be+ dy$4 ,= l>ge pieces use ! wa% boil]s :i* v>y 9 capacity f "o to five gallons4 ,x is always be/1 especially = amateurs1 to dye 9 "o bat* en\gh mat]ial to complete ! "w on h&1 :e!r rug1 portire1 or piece ( tape/ry4 ,?is avoids ! necessity ( exactly mat*+ ! %ade aft]w>d4 ,= ?ree & a half to f\r p\nds ( cotton rags1 su* z are us$ 9 mak+ rag c>pets1 ?ree & "o-half gallon pots are ab\t ! "r size4 ,?is am\nt ( mat]ial w be ab\t en\gh = ! fill+ = "o rug ab\t #fd feet1 wov5 on a h& loom4 ,heat+ ,devices4--,"w may be done ov] any flat-topp$ /ove t burns wood or coal2 gas is1 ( c\rse1 an advantage & s is an oil /ove1 z ) ^! ! heat may be regulat$ v exactly & mu* "t sav$4 ,= actual "w1 a /ove ) space = f\r or five pots is ! mo/ conv5i5t type to use4 ,!re %\ld always be "o l>ge pot set aside = heat+ wat]1 ano!r = boil+ out ! raw goods1 & /ill a ?ird = boil+ out & bright5+ ! f9i%$ mat]ials ) soap1 :5 v fa/ colors are us$ on cotton or l952 & ea* ( ^! pots %\ld be res]v$ = its special purpose & n us$ = dye+4 ,?is w avoid ! dang] ( /a9+ ! goods4 ,! top ( a kit*5 range w d = heat+1 b :5ev] possible1 x is be/ to h a sep>ate /ove1 s plac$ t ! top ( x w n be m ?an ab\t tw5ty-f\r in*es f ! gr\nd or floor4 ,?is enables ! op]ator to look d[n into ! dye-pot & s avoid /ra91 & ! consequ5t excessive fatigue :ile /irr+ ! goods4 ,/irr+ ,rods4--,:ile ! mat]ial is be+ dy$1 x %\ld be kept 9 con/ant motion4 ,:5 work+ ) small am\nts ( mat]ial1 or ) goods su* z /raw1 raffia1 musl91 or silk 9 ske9s1 :i* are delicate & easily spoil$1 x is f> m satisfactory 9 e way to use heavy glass rods = /irr+4 ,^! are r exp5sive4 ,!y are ab\t fifte5 in*es 9 l5g? & well r\nd$ at ! ends4 ,if c>efully h&l$ & ?or\ghly wa%$1 !y are always clean & smoo?4 ,c>e mu/1 ( c\rse1 be ex]cis$ 9 _! use1 z sudd5 v>iations ( heat & cold may cause !m to crack or *ip1 & lift+ or /irr+ l>ge quantities ( heavy mat]ials--any?+ above five p\nds--is liable to break !m4 ,9 ^! cases1 x is be/ to use wood5 dye-/icks4 ,broom/icks or d[el /icks1 cut into two-foot l5g?s1 ) ! ends r\nd$ c>efully by :ittl+ ) a %>p p5knife1 are excell5t sub/itutes4 ,= c>eful "w x is necess>y to h sev]al sets ( wood5 dye-/icks--two = ea* ma9 color at lea/--& ^! mu/ be c>efully wa%$ ea* "t aft] us+1 or !y w /a9 clo? t is be+ dy$ light %ades4 ,!y are b\nd to get s(t & rott5 be=e v long1 f ! action ( ! alkali 9 ! dye-ba?s1 b !y are easily replac$4 ,good rubb] gloves are extremely useful :ile dye+1 to protect ! h&s n only f be+ /a9$ & discolor$ by ! dyes1 b also f ! action ( ! *emicals--especially :ile dye+ ) indigo & o!r dyes :]e9 ! cau/ic alkalies are employ$4 ,aft] "s exp]i5ce 9 ! use ( dye-/icks1 h[ev]1 x w be f\nd comp>atively easy to h&le ! mat]ials1 9 & out ( ! dye-ba?s1 ) ! /icks1 )\t at any "t tak+ hold ( !m ) ! h&4 ,no?+ demon/rates m cle>ly ! skill ( ! dy] ?an ! ability to c>ry1 imm]se 9 ! dye-ba?1 /ir1 take out1 wr+1 & r9se ! mat]ials )\t gett+ /a9s on ei!r clo!s or f+]s4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ! am\nt ( slopp+ t c be accompli%$ by a c>eless1 b en?usia/ic1 amateur mu/ be liv$ ) to be ?or\ghly appreciat$4 ,wr+]s4--,bo? be=e & aft] dye+ x is v important to h at h& a good clo!s wr+]1 pref]ably ) metal frame4 ,9 fact1 = v c>eful "w !re %\ld be two wr+]s2 "o to wr+ out ! raw mat]ials aft] boil+ !m 9 soap & wat]1 or1 if clean1 9 pla9 wat]1 to insure t !y are ?or\ghly & ev5ly wet2 & ! o!r to wr+ out ! excess ( dye-liquor f ! goods be=e r9s+1 or1 z 9 "s cases1 be=e hang+ up to oxidize4 ,! rubb] rolls ( ^! wr+]s %\ld be kept clean by sc\r+ ) soap & sapolio imm$iately aft] f9i%+ ! day's "w1 & by c>efully r9s+ free f dye-liquor4 ,x is always well to keep on h& ne> ! wr+] a supply ( clean blott+ pap]1 or *eap filt] pap]1 or ev5 s(t1 dry *eeseclo? or musl94 ,= by wrapp+ ! mat]ials t h j be5 dy$1 9 any ( ^!1 & !n runn+ !m backw>ds & =w>ds ?r\gh ! wr+]1 x is possible to dry !m ) a m9imum ( "t & exposure4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly important 9 ! case ( natural & artificial silks1 ei!r 9 ske9s or sc>fs1 ( o/ri* fea!rs1 & ( o!r light & fragile mat]ials4 ,dry+ ,arrangem5ts4--,suffici5t room %\ld be provid$ = hang+ up ! clo? to dry4 ,an ord9>y clo!s-l9e1 conv5i5tly fa/5$1 is ! be/ means ( support4 ,= special purposes1 :]e ! mat]ial h&l$ is v delicate or :]e ! "w is done 9 a classroom1 a simple clo!s-horse made ( ?ick glass tub+1 "o in* or s 9 diamet] & support$ on a wood5 frame1 w occupy ! lea/ possible space & give ! be/ support4 ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,mod]n ,,dye/uffs ,! :ole art & practice ( dye+ 0 completely revolutioniz$ once & =ev]1 by ! discov]y 9 #ahef ( ! artificial dye/uff nam$ mauve9e1 or1 m commonly1 mauve1 a "n1 by ! way1 d]iv$ f ! ,fr5* "n ( ! violet-color$ mall[ fl[]4 ,! discov]y 0 made accid5tally1 by a "y *emical /ud5t1 ,william ,h5ry ,p]k91 :ile exp]im5t+ 9 a v crude & simple way1 ) a view to =m+ artificial qu99e f a curi\s oily body kn[n z anil9e4 ,?is anil9e 0 orig9ally prep>$ by di/ill+ indigo 9 a dry retort1 & x _h receiv$ its "n f ! native ,javanese ^w 8anil10 mean+ indigo4 ,:ile ?us prep>$ x 01 ( c\rse1 v exp5sive4 ,b ab\t ?is "t me?ods 7 inv5t$ = obta9+ ?is same comp\nd 9 practically unlimit$ quantities f coal t>--t heavy1 f\l-smell+ refuse ( gas works--:i*1 up to t "t1 _h be5 n only useless b actually a s\rce ( annoyance & exp5se to ! gas companies4 ,p]k9 conceiv$ ! idea t1 by p>tially burn+ or oxidiz+ x1 ?is anil9e might be *ang$ into qu99e4 ,he made ! exp]im5t & !re result$ a black molasses-l mass1 v f> remov$ f ! :ite cry/als he 0 hop+ =4 ,b by te/+ ?is ) v>i\s *emicals1 he f\nd t hot alcohol dissolv$ "p ( x1 & turn$ x into a violet liquid :i* _h ! p[] to dye silk & wool ! same bright color4 ,f9d+ t ! color 0 fairly fa/ to light1 & t x c\ld be produc$ )\t too mu* exp5se1 he took out a pat5t &1 ) ! aid ( 8 fa!r & bro!r1 set up ne> ,man*e/]1 ,engl&1 ! fir/ factory = artificial dye/uffs4 ,8 discov]ies 7 at once publi%$1 & *emi/s all ov] ! _w began to manufacture & exp]im5t ) ! new dye/uffs4 ,great factories 7 />t$ all ov] ,europe4 ,f ?is beg9n+ ! manufacture ( coal-t> dye/uffs1 & m rec5tly all _! alli$ comp\nds1 has become "o ( ! mo/ important & mo/ pr(itable ( all *emical indu/ries4 ,! dyes fir/ discov]$1 ! s-call$ 8,basic dyes10 7 ( great brilliancy & /r5g?2 b !y 7 n ( any p>ticul> beauty :5 us$ individually4 ,comp>$ ) ! vegetable colors :i* prec$$ !m1 & especially ! same %ades we are accu/om$ to see 9 nature1 ^! dyes 7 h>d1 co>se1 crude1 & v in>ti/ic4 ,?is c\ld be rem$i$1 h[ev]1 by mix+ two or ?ree ( !m toge!r1 su* mixture t5d+ to s(t5 ! diff]5t colors & bl5d all into pleasant & delicate %ades4 ,a m s]i\s difficulty 0 ! fact t ^? e>ly dye/uffs 7 usually q fugitive to light or1 at any rate1 f> less fa/ ?an ! be/ ( ! vegetable dyes t prec$$ !m4 ,besides1 !y did n fade true4 ,9 o!r words1 a piece ( clo? might to-day be a bright r$1 & aft] a few days ( exposure to ! sunlight1 ! expos$ portions might turn a yell[1 a :ite1 or ev5 "s d>k color2 &1 9 any case1 ! *ange w\ld entirely spoil ! orig9al color s*eme4 ,by #ahfh1 h[ev]1 ! artificial manufacture ( aliz>9e1 fir/ by two ,g]man *emi/s1 & !n by ,p]k9 himself1 s]v$ to op5 up ano!r :ole class ( new dye/uffs1 :i*1 :5 submitt$ to ! prop] te/s1 prov$ to be exce$+ly fa/ bo? to light & to wa%+4 ,9 consequ5ce1 )9 a few ye>s aft] ?is discov]y1 ! comm]cial use ( madd] 0 ev]y:]e ab&on$4 ,*emi/s c\ld n[ produce on cotton1 l951 wool1 & silk1 practically ! :ole range ( colors1 brilliant & dull1 h>d & s(t1 light & d>k1 n only ( a beauty1 b ( a fa/ness to light & to wa%+1 nev] be=e surpass$1 if inde$ equall$4 ,illu/ration3 ,,at ,,! ,,age ,,( #ad ,illu/ration3 ,,at ,,! ,,age ,,( #bb ,illu/ration3 ,,at ,,! ,,"t ,,( ,,! ,,coal-,,t> ,,color ,,jubilee--#ej ,,ye>s ,,aft] ,,8 ,,discov]y ,,( ,,mauve9e ,,sir ,w4 ,h4 ,,p]k9 ,s9ce t "t1 n a ye> has gone by )\t scores ( new dye/uffs be+ put on ! m>ket by "s ( ! great color h\ses4 ,( late ye>s special ef=ts h be5 made to simplify dye+ processes1 & at ! same "t to insure ! fa/ness z well z ! beauty ( ! colors4 ,at ! pres5t "t x is possible = ! v]ie/ amateur1 ) practically no previ\s k ( *emi/ry or ( dye+1 & ) only intellig5ce en\gh to foll[ "s simple directions1 to get1 9 "o ba?1 ) v little exp5diture ( "t1 an imm5se v>iety ( %ades t are exce$+ly fa/ to light & to wa%+4 ,a v few ye>s ago ?is result c\ld n possibly h be5 obta9$1 except by "s exp]t dy]1 & !n only aft] long & t$i\s1 z well z difficult1 processes4 ,we are all famili> ) ! con/ant compla9t t x is n[ impossible to get goods dy$ or pr9t$ 9 good1 fa/ colors4 ,= in/ance1 take ! brilliant sc>let calico commonly kn[n z ,turkey r$4 ,9 ! days ( our gr&fa!rs a piece ( clo? dy$ ,turkey r$ w\ld /& ra9 & sun1 wa%+ & sc\r+1 & ! fibre w\ld we> out be=e ! color w\ld fade4 ,b n[adays1 if y buy ,turkey r$ clo? = ! purpose ( cov]+ cu%ions = a piazza-l\nge1 y w be =tunate if ! color does n beg9 to *ange aft] ?ree or f\r days 9 ! op5 air4 ,! reason is simple4 ,9 ! old days ! only way to get t p>ticul> %ade 0 by dye+ ! clo? ) gr\nd-up madd] root1 ?r\gh a s]ies ( op]ations la/+ ! be/ "p ( two mon?s4 ,n[ any capable dy] w\ld be able to dye cotton t exact %ade ) any (1 say1 tw5ty diff]5t colors1 mo/ ( :i* w\ld n require m ?an "o or two h\rs to dye4 ,out ( ^! tw5ty dye/uffs1 f\r or five1 r m exp5sive ?an ! re/1 w\ld give j z fa/1 j z brilliant1 & j z /rong color z ! good old madd] color4 ,b ! re/1 :i* are di/9ctly *eap] & easi] to apply1 w\ld furni% goods :i* w\ld look exactly ! same to ! av]age pur*as]1 b :i* might n la/ any "t at all4 ,naturally1 ! av]age manufactur] c>efully in/ructs 8 dy] to furni% him ) ! 8*eap & na/y0 goods1 n only because x co/s less money1 b also1 un=tunately1 because he reasons t 8x w be good = bus9ess40 ,! manufactur] has ! greate/ sympa?y ) ! incl9ation ( ! fa/idi\s h\sewife to ?r[ away any?+ t looks fad$1 & to buy 9 its place some?+ new & fre%4 ,curta9s or portires t hold _! orig9al %ade indef9itely1 he has little or no pati5ce )4 ,a calico dress t keeps its color s t x c be worn = a second summ]1 is an abom9ation n to be endur$4 ,& 9 e case1 :5 compla9t is made1 x is always said to be ! fault ( ! *emi/ :o produc$ & put on ! m>ket su* 8horrid1 fugitive dyes40 ,z a matt] ( fact1 x is simply a case ( pick+ & *oos+4 ,!re h be5 discov]$1 s f>1 sev]al ?\s& diff]5t coal-t> dye/uffs ( all sorts & k9ds4 ,out ( ^!1 probably "o hundr$1 or less1 c be consid]$ really fa/ to bo? light & wa%+4 ,! rema9+ ones1 mo/ ( :i* nev] 7 consid]$ valuable en\gh to put on ! m>ket1 v>y 9 degrees ( fa/ness1 ! poore/ be+ simply /a9s :i* w 8ble$0 indef9itely ) mod]ate wa%+1 & :i* w turn almo/ any color aft] exposure = a few h\rs to sun & wea!r4 ,9 ! foll[+ pages1 consid]able pa9s w be tak5 to emphasize ! names & prop]ties ( ! v be/ & fa/e/ dye/uffs 9 ! diff]5t classes1#a s t ! results ( "w done ) !m c be dep5d$ ^u4 #a ,9 "s classes !re are no absolutely fa/ dye/uffs4 ,p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ ?+1 9 connection ) ! :ole subject ( ! artificial dye/uffs1 is ! enorm\s influ5ce t !y h _h ^u ! life ( ! :ole human race4 ,?is influ5ce 0 b slightly appreciat$1 ev5 by ! *emi/s !mselves1 until a few ye>s ago4 ,! awak5+ dates f ! "t ( ! fiftie? anniv]s>y ( ! discov]y ( mauve9e1 :5 f "o end ( ! _w to ! o!r1 honors 7 %[]$ ^u ,sir ,william ,h5ry ,p]k91 !n gr[n old & ne>+ ! end ( 8 useful & prosp]\s life4 ,x 0 !n ann\nc$1 & 0 = ! fir/ "t g5]ally recogniz$ z true1 t no "o ( ! great discov]ies ( ! n9ete5? c5tury--! /eam locomotive1 ! /eam%ip1 ! telephone1 ! telegraph1 ! gas light1 ! electric light1 & ! re/--_h be5 m important to ! _w at l>ge ?an ! discov]y ( ! fir/ coal-t> dye4 ,& probably nev] 9 ! hi/ory ( ! _w h su* enorm\s results be5 produc$ f a s+le discov]y1 dur+ ! lifetime ( ! discov]] himself4 ,,! ,,artificial ,,dye/uffs ,! artificial dye/uffs =m su* a l>ge body ( complicat$ *emical comp\nds1 t at fir/ glance x w\ld seem hopeless = any "o :o is n a tra9$ *emi/1 to attempt to get any cle> or def9ite ideas ab\t !m4 ,?is1 inde$1 w\ld be ! case if any attempt 7 made to /udy !m *emically1 i4e41 ) ref]5ce to _! composition1 or _! me?od ( manufacture2 b :5 x comes to ! application ( !m to ! v>i\s textile fabrics & o!r mat]ials1 = :i* dyes are valuable1 we soon f9d t ! problem is n s v difficult aft] all4 ,to be sure !re are _m hundr$s ( diff]5t dyes on ! m>ket n[1 great numb]s ( :i* are kn[n "u ?ree or f\r diff]5t trade names1 accord+ to ! trade-m>k ( ea* p>ticul> manufactur]4 ,b besides ! great manufactur]s1 & _! accr$it$ ag5ts1 !re are num]\s retail ag5cies all ov] ! c\ntry1 l>ge & small1 :i* make a bus9ess ( di/ribut+ dyes made by ! great conc]ns4 ,"s ( ^! are v en]getic1 & h pu%$ ! sale ( artificial dye/uffs 9 t5- & fifte5-c5t packages1 until 9 almo/ e village1 l>ge en\gh to boa/ ( a dec5t c\ntry /ore1 ^! dyes c be obta9$4 ,x is common to he> ^! dyes sne]$ at & abus$4 ,!y are frequ5tly ref]r$ to1 especially by ^? ( 8arti/ic ta/es10 z h>% & crude 9 color1 fugitive to light & wa%+1 &1 9 %ort1 g5]ally inf]ior & wor?less products4 ,?is is n ! case4 ,!y are1 9 "s cases1 individual dye/uffs1 & 9 o!r cases1 mixtures1 g5]ally belong+ to ! class ( colors next to be describ$1 ! ,salt dyes2 & v good1 if n inde$ ! v be/ specim5s ( t class4 ,^! ,salt dyes1 until ! la/ few ye>s1 7 f> f fa/1 ei!r to light or wa%+2 b ! m rec5t memb]s ( ! class are mu* m satisfactory1 & ^! colors1 too1 are f\nd 9 ! fifte5-c5t packages4 ,nor1 too1 c objection be fairly tak5 to ! %ades z be+ crude & h>%4 ,t is all a matt] ( ta/e & skill on ! "p ( ! dy]4 ,!re is no bett] practice 9 dye+ ?an to take ! v h>de/1 cle>e/1 mo/ brilliant r$1 blue1 & yell[ colors t c be f\nd at ! corn] groc]y &1 foll[+ ! directions on ! packages1 proce$ to dye y>n or *eeseclo? ) !m1 at fir/ us+ ! individual dyes1 & aft]w>ds modify+ ! %ade ( "o dye ) traces ( ea* ( ! o!r two4 ,! s(tness & ri*ness ( ! tones t c be ?us obta9$ w satisfy ! mo/ critical4 ,! real objection to ^! widely di/ribut$ popul> dyes is a v diff]5t "o4 ,!y are n sold "u _! own names1 & !re=e x is almo/ impossible to id5tify !m4 ,to be sure1 f ! accompany+ directions x is possible = a tra9$ dy] to recognize at once ! class to :i* ! dye/uff belongs4 ,b x is impossible = him1 except+ aft] a long1 t$i\s & (t5 v tr\blesome analysis1 to tell j :at memb] or memb]s ( t p>ticul> class is conta9$ 9 any giv5 package4 ,= ?is reason ! dy] :o has to dep5d on !m = an important piece ( "w is 9 mu* ! same position z a doctor w\ld be :o _h to treat a difficult case ) pat5t m$ic9es comp\nd$ aft] secret =mul4 ,9 ! foll[+ *apt]s1 a discussion ( ea* class ( dye/uffs1 & an explanation ( _! application & g5]al prop]ties w be foll[$ by li/s ( ?ree or f\r ( ! v be/ colors1 sold by ! ,new ,york ag5ts ( six ( ! l>ge/ & mo/ reliable color manufactur]s4 ,work]s wi%+ to obta9 ^! dyes 9 comp>atively l>ge quantities1 say "o p\nd & upw>ds1 c get !m by writ+ directly to ! addresses 9 ! foll[+ table3 ,badis*e-- ,! ,badis*e ,anil9 ,soda ,fabrik1 #abh ,duane ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,cassella-- ,! ,cassella ,co41 #ahd ,front ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,elb]feld--,! ,f>b5fabrik5 ( ,elb]feld ,co41 #aag ,hudson ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,kalle-- ,kalle ,co41 #ecj ,canal ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,klip/e9--,a4 ,klip/e9 ,co41 ,ag5t = ,society ( ,*emical ,indu/ry ( ,basle1 #fed ,gre5wi* ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,metz-- ,f>bw]ke-,hoe*/ ,co41 =m]ly ,h4 ,a4 ,metz ,co41 ,ag5t = ! ,mei/] ,lucius ,brun+ ,co41 #abb ,hudson ,/41 ,n4 ,y4 ,city4 ,n4 ,b4 ,fur!r in=mation conc]n+ dye/uffs1 app>atus1 textiles1 *emicals1 etc41 connect$ ) ?is "w may be obta9$ on writ+ to ! au?or at #g ,we/ #dcrd ,/41 ,new ,york4 ,,! ,,nam+ ,,( ,,mod]n ,,dye/uffs ,x is important to rememb] t1 9 ord] to id5tify a color by "n1 x is necess>y to "k ?ree ?+s3 fir/1 ! trade "n2 second1 ! %ade1 or di/+ui%+1 lett]2 & ?ird1 ! manufactur] or ag5t4 ,! trade "n sometimes be>s a ref]5ce to ! class1 prop]ties1 or color ( ! dye1 z 8fa/ acid blue02 or to its *emical composition1 z 8me?yl5e blue10 or 8diam9e r$02 b 9 mo/ cases x is simply an arbitr>y "n1 giv5 by ! orig9al discov]] :5 ! pat5ts 7 issu$1 or assign$ lat] by ! manufactur] or 8 local ag5ts4 ,! lett] or lett]s1 foll[+ ! "n1 ref] g5]ally to ! %ade1 z = in/ance1 ,b = blue1 ,r = r$1 ,y or ,g = yell[ 7,g]man gelb71 & s on4 ,?us 8me?yl violet0 is sold 9 br&s runn+ all ! way f #f ,b to #f ,r--t is1 f full purple %ades t are v close to blue1 to bright violet %ades1 v close to r$4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 ! lett] ref]s to ! composition ( ! dye or its class1 z 8fu*s9e ,s0 7,g]man sau]7 (t5 call$ acid fu*s9e or acid mag5ta2 or 8aliz>9e blue1 ,d10 :5 ! ,d indicates a 8direct0 cotton color4 ,& sometimes ! lett] ,f is us$ to indicate fa/ness to light1 9 :i* case 8,f ,f0 w\ld signify a br& ( v unusual fa/ness1 = t p>ticul> class ( colors at any rate4 ,b n infrequ5tly ! lett] is m]ely a m>k appli$ = purposes ( id5tification1 ^: significance _c easily be le>n$ by ^? n 9 ! bus9ess ( color sell+1 ev5 :5 x is n a secret closely gu>d$ by ! p>ticul> firm supply+ ! dye/uff4 ,= ?is reason1 ! "n ( ! manufactur] or ag5t %\ld always be add$ to ! color "n & lett]1 if x is important to get a p>ticul> color 9 any case4 ,! be/ ( ! old] dyes are manufactur$ by all ( ! l>g] firms1 ( sub/antially ! same /r5g? & %ades1 al?\gh (t5 n "u ! same names4 ,! lat] colors1 ^: pat5ts h n expir$1 are ( c\rse ! individual prop]ty ( ! diff]5t manufactur]s1 & c be1 & are1 m>ket$ by !m "u any "n !y l to give !m4 ,accord+ly x frequ5tly happ5s t two diff]5t firms may sell1 "u ! same "n1 two entirely diff]5t colors2 x w\ld be impossible to tell :i* dye/uff 0 int5d$ unless ! firm "n 7 atta*$4 ,b ) ^! ?ree ess5tials correctly giv5--"n1 br&1 & mak]--a color c be id5tifi$ & obta9$ true 9 composition & %ade1 ev5 aft] ! lapse ( _m ye>s4 ,,classification ,,( ,,! ,,coal-,,t> ,,colors ,,available ,,= ,,craftsm54 ,class ,"n4 ,mat]ials on :i* to be us$4 ,h[ appli$4 ,h[ develop$4 ,h[ f9i%$4 ,i4 ,direct ,cotton or ,salt ,colors3 ,cotton1 l951 & artificial silk4 ,r>ely wool & silk4 ,9 boil+ wat]1 ) addition ( salt4 ,by r9s+ 9 wat]4 ,,ii4 ,sulphur ,colors3 ,cotton & l954 ,r>ely silk4 ,9 hot or lukew>m wat]1 ) addition ( soda1 sodium sulphide1 salt1 & ,turkey r$ oil4 ,by exposure to air aft] wr++4 ,by wa%+ 9 a hot soap ba?1 & r9s+4 ,,iii4 ,indigo or ,vat ,colors3 ,cotton & l954 ,r>ely silk4 ,also z /5cil pa/es on cotton & l954 ,9 hot or w>m wat]1 ) addition ( cau/ic soda & sodium hydrosulphite4 ,by exposure to air aft] wr++4 ,"s colors mu/ be develop$ by boil+ 9 a soap ba?4 ,by wa%+ 9 a hot soap ba?1 & r9s+4 ,/5cill$ "w1 by /eam+ & wa%+ 9 hot soap ba?4 ,,iv4 ,basic ,colors3 ,raffia1 /raw1 rattan1 & basketry 9 g5]al4 ,artificial silk4 ,lea!r4 ,r>ely wool & silk4 ,also z /5cil pa/es on cotton1 l951 & silk4 ,9 hot or w>m wat]1 ) addition ( a little acetic acid 7v9eg>74 ,raffia1 etc41 f9i%$ by r9s+ 9 wat]4 ,lea!r by rubb+ ) wax :5 dry4 ,/5cill$ "w1 by /eam+ & pass+ ?r\gh a weak ba? ( ,t>t> ,emetic4 ,v4 ,acid ,colors3 ,wool1 silk1 & fea!rs4 ,sometimes lea!r4 ,r>ely rattan & basketry4 ,9 hot or cold wat] ) addition 7= wool7 ( sulphuric acid & ,glaub]'s salt4 ,= silk add soap & acid4 ,= lea!r add a little acetic acid4 ,= fea!rs add oxalic acid or =mic acid4 ,wool ne$s v c>eful r9s+ 9 wat]1 to remove e trace ( acid4 ,silk f9i%$ by a cold soap ba?1 foll[$ by a weak ba? ( acetic acid4 ,lea!r f9i%$ ) wax4 ,fea!rs f9i%$ ) />*4 ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,direct ,,cotton ,,or ,,salt ,,colors ,among ! _m *anges made 9 ! art ( dye+ s9ce ! introduction ( ! coal-t> dye/uffs1 p]haps ! mo/ important has be5 ! gradual ov]com+ ( ! necessity = mordant+ ! textiles be=e color+ !m 9 ! dye-ba?4 ,almo/ all ( ! old vegetable dyes 7 mordant dyes2 t is1 ! color c\ld n be fa/5$ to ! fibre1 :e!r wool1 cotton1 l951 or ev5 silk1 unless ! latt] _h be5 impregnat$ ) "s *emical :i* w\ld act z a mordant to--7i4e41 w\ld comb9e ) & hold7 ! color4 ,^! mordants 71 9 g5]al1 ! salts ( "s metal1 alum9ium1 t91 *romium1 & iron salts be+ ! ones 9 common use2 & ! processes involv$ 9 prop]ly mordant+ ! goods 7 9 _m cases--notably 9 ! case ( madd] & ! ,turkey r$ process--f> m difficult & t$i\s & exp5sive ?an ! actual dye+4 ,! fir/ dye/uffs discov]$1 ! true anil9e dyes1 :i* 7 manufactur$ directly f anil9e & f sub/ances /rongly resembl+ anil9e 9 *emical composition1 7 at once f\nd to act 9 a diff]5t mann] on textile fibres4 ,animal fibres l wool & silk1 fur & lea!r1 7 dy$ by !m directly1 )\t ! use ( any mordant at all4 ,if ! dye/uff 7 dissolv$ 9 wat] 7! addition ( a little acid makes ! color dissolve m readily1 b is )\t o!r effect7 & a wet ske9 ( wool or silk 7 imm]s$ 9 x1 & a little heat appli$1 ! color w\ld leave ! liquid1 & fa/5 itself firmly on to ! goods4 ,b ) cotton & l95 & o!r vegetable fibres1 ^! dyes w\ld n "w s well4 ,:5 ^! mat]ials are w>m$ 9 su* a dye-ba?1 ! color does n adh]e to ! fibres1 b wa%es (f directly 9 a hot soap ba?1 if n1 inde$1 "u a /ream ( cle> hot wat]4 ,?is 0 notic$ by ,p]k9 v soon aft] 8 fam\s discov]y1 &1 wi%+ to use 8 new color = dye+ cotton & l95 z well z silk & wool1 he set to "w to discov] h[ to prep>e ^! mat]ials2 9 %ort1 h[ to mordant !m s t !y too w\ld take firm hold ( ! color4 ,z w be describ$ lat] 9 ! *apt] on ,basic colors1 8 exp]im5ts soon l$ to ! introduction & ! use ( tannic acid & t>t> emetic comb9$1 9 a process widely us$ to ?is day4 ,! next class ( dye/uffs discov]$ 7 ! s-call$ acid colors1 ?us nam$ because !y all exhibit$ di/9ctly acid prop]ties--t is1 !y w\ld =m salts ) ! sub/ances kn[n z bases 7( :i* la/1 by ! way1 anil9e is an important memb]74 ,^! colors1 l ! e>li] ones1 w\ld dye ! animal fibres directly1 b w\ld n color ! vegetable fibres1 unless ! latt] 7 c>efully mordant$ ) alum9a1 or iron oxide1 or "s simil> metallic base4 ,& ev5 ?is treatm5t does n give colors t are fa/ to wa%+1 s ^! acid colors are nev] us$ on cotton or l954 ,aft] ?is came ! discov]y ( aliz>9e1 & an important s]ies ( v fa/ & v valuable dyes1 all ( :i* 7 *>act]i/ic mordant colors4 ,ev5 wool & silk1 z well z e o!r textile1 mu/ be c>efully mordant$ ) alum9ium1 *romium1 or iron salts1 9 ord] to h any color+ effect produc$ by ^! dye/uffs4 ,?is is ! *ief reason :y1 9 spite ( _! beauty & great p]man5ce1 ! aliz>9e & o!r mordant colors are be+ less us$ e ye>4 ,at ! end ( "s twelve or ?irte5 ye>s aft] ! discov]y ( ! anil9e colors1 !re=e1 x 0 /ill impossible to dye cotton ) !m )\t a m or less elaborate mordant+ process4 ,& yet ! problem did n seem to be an impossible "o4 ,"o ( ! natural dyes1 ! saffl[]1 already m5tion$1 has ! prop]ty ( dye+ cotton pretty1 & n v fugitive1 %ades ( p9k & rose colors1 directly1 )\t ! necessity = any mordant2 & if a natural dye/uff c\ld d t :y c\ld n "s artificial ones8 ,"s ?irty ye>s ago1 a *emi/ 7"o /ory says t x 0 a laboratory boy7 :ile exp]im5t+ ) a dye/uff :i* 0 !n a rec5t discov]y--,congo r$1 a v brilliant b fugitive & un/able sc>let color--notic$ t :ile filt]+ a hot solution ( x ?r\gh filt] pap]1 ! pap] 0 /a9$ deeply1 &1 :i* 0 m important1 ! color 0 n easily wa%$ out ) hot wat]4 ,?is excit$ 8 curiosity1 & aft] foll[+ ! matt] up a little1 he f\nd t n only ?is ,congo r$1 b a :ole s]ies ( dye/uffs =m$ 9 ! same g5]al way1 _h ! p[] ( dye+ cotton directly4 ,?is discov]y has practically revolutioniz$ ! :ole art ( cotton dye+4 ,f ^! few bright & pretty1 b di/9ctly untru/wor?y dyes1 :i* 7 at once nam$ & adv]tis$ z 8direct cotton colors10 h sprung great numb]s ( dye/uffs--sev]al hundr$s at lea/--( e conceivable %ade1 & ( late ye>s ( e conceivable degree ( fa/ness to light4 ,all resemble ! orig9al ,congo r$ 9 t !y w dye cotton & l951 if n absolutely fa/1 at any rate v fairly fa/ to wa%+1 9 "o ba?1 )\t ! ne$ ( any mordants4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 means t ! co/ ( dye+ clo? ) ^! dyes is v mu* less ?an ) ! o!r classes m5tion$4 ,&1 by ! way1 x also expla9s :y1 "u ! "n ( ,turkey r$1 s _m extremely bad colors h be5 sold4 ,to dye ,turkey r$ on cotton1 us+ aliz>9e1 & ) ! mo/ improv$ & simplifi$ me?ods1 necessitates at lea/ six or sev5 diff]5t /eps1 ea* ( :i* requires n only "t & exp5se1 b great skill & c>e2 & any "o ( !m1 if c>elessly p]=m$1 may spoil ! goods4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a m]e beg9n]1 by us+ "o ( ! e>ly1 bright1 direct colors 7q *eap 9 itself1 because ! pat5ts h expir$7 c1 by boil+ ! goods = half an h\r 9 a dye-ba? ) a little soap & salt 9 x1 produce a piece ( clo? dy$ almo/ ! exact %ade ( ! old ,turkey r$1 = probably "o-?ird1 or "o-qu>t] ( ! price4 ,x w look ! same on ! %op c\nt]2 w probably sell j z well to ! av]age1 or ev5 to ! pa9/ak+ cu/om]2 b :5 expos$ to air & light = a few weeks1 p]haps ev5 = a few days1 w lose its brilliancy1 & turn "s que]1 dull %ade1 probably ( purple4 ,inde$ ?is p>ticul> sub/itution has be5 go+ on = "s ye>s on a l>ge scale2 & at "o "t promis$ to be ( "s int]national importance4 ,! ,turkey r$ dy]s 9 ,man*e/]1 a few ye>s ago1 compla9$ bitt]ly to ! ,engli% ,gov]nm5t t _! m>ket 9 ,india 0 fall+ (f v s]i\sly2 & !y dem&$ an inve/igation1 to "k :at 0 ! matt]4 ,aft] c>eful inquiry by ! local (ficials1 ^w came back t !re 0 no diff]5ce 9 ! ta/e ( ! p = bright sc>let clo!s & headge>4 ,j z mu* r$ 0 worn z ev] be=e4 ,b active ag5ts ( ! l>ge ,g]man color h\ses _h be5 go+ ?r\gh ! c\ntry1 introduc+ "s ( ^! *eap direct cotton sc>lets & %[+ ! natives h[ to use !m4 ,& 9 consequ5ce1 up & d[n ,india 9 all ! little t[ns1 ev5 9 ! villages1 local dy]s 7 at "w :o1 = a few c5ts1 w\ld dye up an old piece ( calico bright r$4 ,:5 x became fad$ aga9 9 a few weeks1 !y w\ld dye x ov] aga9 = a v small sum1 ?us r5ew+ ! same piece :5ev] x 0 desirable to appe> 9 bright1 new clo!s4 ,names4--,^! dyes h long be5 made by all ( ! great firms1 al?\gh two or ?ree h made m ( a specialty ( !m ?an ! re/4 ,x 0 soon f\nd t ! pres5ce ( common 7table7 salt 9 ! dye/uffs 0 valuable1 z less5+ ! wa/e ( dye/uff 9 ! dye-liquor1 & also increas+ ! fa/ness to wa%+ ( ! dy$ goods4 ,= ?is reason ! common "n giv5 to ?is class is t ( 8,salt ,colors40 ,ow+1 h[ev]1 to ! fact t ,congo r$1 ! fir/ discov]$ ( ! :ole class1 0 d]iv$ f ! *emical kn[n z b5zid9e1 ^! salt colors are sometimes ref]r$ to1 9 g5]al1 z ! 8,congo10 or z ! 8b5zid9e0 dyes4 ,besides ?is !y are frequ5tly kn[n z 8cotton colors10 or 8direct cotton colors40 ,! diff]5t manufactur]s1 h[ev]1 h assign$ c]ta9 class names to _! own dye/uffs1 z foll[s3 ,b5zo 7,elb]feld72 ,diam9e 7,cassella72 ,dianil 7,metz72 ,mikado 7,elb]feld72 ,naph?am9e 7,kalle72 ,oxam9e 7,badis*e72 ,ph5am9e 7,badis*e74 ,uses4--,^! colors are *iefly us$ = dye+ cotton1 l951 & pap]4 ,!y take p>ticul>ly well on m]c]iz$ cotton1 & on "s v>ieties ( artificial silk4 ,!y c also be us$ to dye wool & silk1 &1 inde$1 9 _m cases give colors fa/]1 bo? to light & to wa%+1 on ^! fibres ?an on cotton4 ,z a rule !y w n dye animal fibres except+ at a high temp]ature--ne> ! boil+ po9t--& 9 an acid ba?4 ,:]eas cotton & l95 are pref]ably dy$ 9 an alkal9e or at lea/ a neutral ba?1 &1 :ile !y mu/ be boil$ 9 ! dye-ba? = at all p]man5t results1 w take ! color z a /a9 at q l[ temp]atures4 ,= ?is reason ^! dyes are (t5 us$ = dye+ ev5 %ades 9 "o ba?1 ^u mix$ goods--t is1 wool & cotton1 cotton & silk1 etc4 ,! goods are fir/ dy$ 9 a lukew>m ba? till ! cotton is ne>ly ! prop] %ade1 & !n1 on heat+1 ! wool or silk w take up ! color &1 be=e long1 cat* up ) ! cotton4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be rememb]$ t on cotton & l95 ^! dyes are n1 z a rule1 at all fa/ to wa%+1 unless !y h be5 well boil$ ) ! goods4 ,:5 dy$ on silk at a boil1 !y are fa/ to hot soap & wat]1 a fact :i*1 sometimes1 is ( mu* importance4 ,,dye+ ,,directions ,dye-ba?4--,! color mu/ fir/ be dissolv$ 9 wat]1 c>e be+ tak5 n to leave any undissolv$ lumps or specks ( color float+ ar\nd 91 or settl$ at ! bottom (1 ! dye-ba?4 ,= ?is reason x is g5]ally be/1 9 all dye+ op]ations1 fir/ ( all to make a decid$ly /rong solution ( ! color1 by dissolv+ a consid]able quantity ( x 7dep5d+ ( c\rse on ! am\nt ( goods to be dy$7 9 hot wat]1 9 a pit*] or saucepan4 ,9 ! dyeh\se ?is w\ld be call$ a 8/ock solution10 & w\ld always be made ( a def9ite /r5g?1--say five p>ts ( color to "o hundr$ ( wat]--& kept well cov]$ up4 ,sometimes 9 hot wea!r x w\ld be treat$ ) a little pres]vative l b5zoate ( soda1 s t x c\ld be us$ at any "t x 0 ne$$4 ,:5 ?is color solution is add$ to ! dye-ba?1 x %\ld always be c>efully /ra9$ ?r\gh a piece ( *eeseclo? or any o!r f9e m$ium t w cat* ! specks & undissolv$ lumps4 ,o!rwise spots are liable to appe>1 on ! f9i%$ goods1 :i* x is almo/ impossible to eradicate )\t /ripp+ (f e trace ( color f ! dy$ mat]ial4 ,wat]4--,! dye-ba? is prep>$ ) pla9 wat]4 ,! am\nt necess>y = ea* lot ( goods c only be told by exp]i5ce4 ,= "s classes ( dyes1 l ! ,acid colors & ! ,basic colors1 to be describ$ lat]1 ! quantity ( wat] makes b little diff]5ce4 ,b = d>k %ades ) ^! ,salt colors x is be/ n to h m ?an en\gh wat] to ?or\ghly soak1 & com=tably cov]1 ! wett$ goods1 ) en\gh room to /ir & turn !m easily4 ,! dye-ba? is n[ set on ! /ove to w>m up &1 :5 dye+ light or m$ium %ades1 "s soap is usually dissolv$ 9 x4 ,?is is n absolutely necess>y b helps to make ! color g on m ev5ly1 & p5etrate ! fibres bett]4 ,soap4--,= dye+ purposes 9 g5]al1 any pure1 c>efully made soap acts satisfactorily4 ,= silk dye+1 & especially = silk f9i%+1 x is said t great] lu/re c be ga9$ ) olive oil 7,ca/ile7 soap4 ,b :5 ?is _c be obta9$1 ,ivory soap or ,pe>s' soap or1 9 fact1 any good br& ( ba? or toilet soap w d almo/ z well4 ,= ! wa%+ & f9i%+ ( wool & silk ! use ( /rong laundry soaps %\ld be avoid$ if possible1 because !y usually conta9 alkali1 9 ! =m ( borax or ( c>bonate ( soda1 :i* is liable to 8t5d] ! goods40 ,= cotton & l95 dye+ & f9i%+1 ?is does n make any diff]5ce4 ,! easie/ way to add ! soap to ! dye-ba? is to use x 9 "o ( ! wire soap-%ak]s1 :i* has a conv5i5t h&le1 & holds half a cake or ev5 a :ole cake ( soap at "o "t4 ,ev5 ,dye+4--,! goods %\ld be well wa%$1 r9s$1 & wrung out1 s z to be sure t !y are free f dirt & grease1 & h be5 ?or\ghly & ev5ly wet4 ,!y are !n plac$ 9 ! dye-ba?1 completely "u ! liquid1 & /irr$ r\nd & r\nd & turn$ ov] & ov] ) ! dye-/icks4 ,! *ief objects 9 /irr+ are1 fir/1 to prev5t "p ( ! goods f re/+ on ! bottom & !n gett+ m heat ?an ! re/ ( ! mat]ial1 9 :i* case1 naturally1 x w become d>k] :5 f9i%$2 & second1 to prev5t ! outside portion ( ! goods f gett+ m color ?an ! inn] portions4 ,accord+ly ! goods1 :5 plac$ 9 ! dye-ba?1 mu/ be well op5$ up &1 except+ :5 delib]ately mak+ patt]ns by ! me?od describ$ lat] "u ! "n ( 8,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w10 !y %\ld n be ti$ or entangl$ 9 knots or bun*es4 ,e "p mu/ be equally expos$1 by ! turn+ & lift+ & /irr+1 to ! action ( ! color solution4 ,if only light %ades are desir$1 ! goods are heat$ & turn$ until ! prop] %ade has be5 rea*$--rememb]+ always t1 unless ! color has be5 boil$ on1 x is likely to be only a /a9 :i* w wa% (f easily4 ,salt4--,= full & inde$ = m$ium %ades1 x is cu/om>y to add to ! dye-ba? "s ag5t--usually table salt or1 :5 ! %ade is n v d>k1 phosphate ( soda--:i* w make ! color less soluble 9 ! dye-liquor & w t5d to ?r[ x on ! fibre4 ,=1 aft] all1 !re is comp>atively little aff9ity betwe5 ! cotton fibre & ! dye/uff 7f> less ?an betwe5 silk or wool & ! ,acid or ,basic colors71 & :5 a ske9 is w>m$ or ev5 boil$ 9 ! dye-ba? a l>ge proportion ( ! color rema9s 9 ! liquid4 ,! ba? is n 8exhau/$0 z ! dy]s say4 ,h5ce1 if we try to dye full %ades ) ^! colors dissolv$ 9 wat] only1 or 9 soap & wat]1 x c only be done by us+ l>ge quantities ( ! dye/uff1 mo/ ( :i* w be wa/$ 9 ! sp5t dye-liquor4 ,= d>k %ades1 !n1 :]e !re is little dang] ( unev5 dye+1 ! goods are usually dy$ = a %ort "t ) ! color dissolv$ 9 hot wat]4 ,& !n1 to deep5 ! %ade1 ! goods are lift$1 & common salt add$ 9 consid]able quantities1 ?ree or f\r tablespoonfuls to ! gallon1 & /irr$ r\nd till x is dissolv$4 ,!n ! goods are put back & well boil$ = half an h\r or s1 be=e ! dye+ is consid]$ complete4 ,! pres5ce ( salt1 by increas+ ! temp]ature ( ! boil+ ba?1 also helps to make ! dy$ goods fa/ to wa%+4 ,soap _c be us$ 9 ! pres5ce ( s mu* salt = fe> ( its deposit+ on ! fibre 9 spots & s caus+ tr\ble4 ,= m$ium %ades1 h[ev]1 :]e x is well to use soap 9 ! dye-ba? s z to h ! color g on ! fibre ev5ly1 a little phosphate ( soda is (t5 employ$ in/ead ( salt1 "o or two tablespoonfuls to ! gallon1 to dim9i% ! wa/e ( color1 )\t mak+ ! soap insoluble4 ,= ! d>k] %ades x is p>ticul>ly important to ?or\ghly boil ! goods = half an h\r or m1 be=e tak+ !m out ( ! dye-ba?4 ,o!rwise ! dye/uff w n p5etrate ! fibre1 b w simply /a9 ! surface1 & w n only be easily wa%$ (f1 ) v mild soap+1 b1 :5 dry1 w be apt to crack & rub4 ,f9i%+4--,aft] ! mat]ials h be5 dy$ z j describ$1 !y %\ld be tak5 out ( ! dye-ba?1 r9s$ ) wat] to wa% (f ! excess ( dye-liquor1 & !n %ak5 out & dri$4 ,:5 us$ 9 ?is way ! be/ dyes ( ?is class1 su* z ^? li/$ a little fur!r on1 w give1 on cotton & l951 %ades t are v fa/ to light1 & fairly fa/ to wa%+4 ,on wool & silk ! %ades are fa/ to bo? light & wa%+4 ,= purposes ( comp>ison x may be /at$ "h :at is g5]ally meant by ^! t]ms4 ,fa/ness to ,light4--,! te/ = light-fa/ness is usually made by p>tially cov]+ a dy$ ske9 ) a piece ( wood1 or heavy piece ( blott+ pap]1 & expos+ x to direct sunlight1 back ( a w9d[ ) s\!rn exposure4 ,at int]vals ! ske9 is tak5 out & ! color /udi$1 & x is !n easy to see :e!r any *ange has tak5 place 9 ! portion ( ! goods expos$ to ! light4 ,if ! goods h fad$ appreciably 9 ! space ( "o week1 ! dye/uff is consid]$ n fa/4 ,if ! color *anges aft] two weeks' exposure1 b n aft] "o week1 x is to be consid]$ fairly fa/4 ,if x /&s = two weeks b fades 9 f\r weeks x is to be call$ fa/4 ,& if x resi/s1 )\t appreciable *ange1 ! action ( ! summ] sunlight = full f\r weeks1 x is call$ v fa/4 ,x %\ld be rememb]$1 9 ?is connection1 t ! comp>ative fa/ness to light dep5ds l>gely 7a7 ^u ! mat]ials to be dy$1 & 7b7 ^u ! dep? & %ade ( color us$ 9 ! te/4 ,= in/ance1 if a ske9 ( heavy cotton y>n1 & "o ( v f9e1 brilliant1 artificial silk are dy$ ! same color1 & expos$ to light "u ! same conditions1 ! cotton ske9 w hold its color long] ?an ! silk4 ,! latt]1 be+ semi-transp>5t1 all[s ! sunlight to pi]ce x ?r\gh & ?r\gh1 :ile ! m opaque cotton gives "s di/9ct protection to ! color t has p5etrat$ b5ea? ! surface4 ,s1 too1 a d>k %ade ( any giv5 color w /& ! light mu* bett] ?an a v light or delicate %ade1 = ! same g5]al reason4 ,! color b5ea? ! surface is protect$ f ! direct action ( ! sun's rays by ! surface color4 ,fa/ness to ,wa%+4--,! te/ = wa%+-fa/ness is made some:at diff]5tly4 ,a ske9 dy$ a full %ade ) ! color is twi/$ up ) two :ite ske9s1 "o ( wool & ! o!r ( cotton1 & ! ?ree are ?or\ghly sc\r$ = t5 m9utes 9 a /rong ba? ( good quality laundry soap1 heat$ to #adj;,f4 ,?is temp]ature is uncom=tably hot = ! h&s & yet is well bel[ ! boil+ po9t4 ,a fa/ color is "o :]e1 ) ?is treatm5t1 nei!r ! soap liquor nor ei!r "o ( ! ske9s becomes color$4 ,if ! soap liquor is color$ b nei!r "o ( ! ske9s1 ! dye is call$ fairly fa/4 ,if ! soap ba? is t+$1 & "o or ! o!r ( ! ske9s becomes color$ at ! same "t1 ! dye is consid]$ n fa/4 ,x mu/1 h[ev]1 be borne 9 m9d t be=e mak+ ?is wa%+-te/1 all excess ( dye-liquor mu/ fir/ be remov$ by ?or\gh r9s+4 ,& x %\ld be rememb]$ t ev5 ! fa/e/ ( ! ,salt colors1 z well z ( ! ,acid & ,basic colors describ$ lat]1 :5 appli$ directly to ! fibre1 )\t mordant+ or aft]-treat+1 are nev] z fa/ to wa%+ z ^? :]e ! dye/uff is fix$ or develop$ 9 an insoluble =m 9 ! fibre1 by ! action ( ! air1 z are ! ,sulphur & ,vat colors--or by ! action ( mordants1 z ) ! ,aliz>9e colors--or by aft]-treatm5t ) c]ta9 special *emicals1 z ) ! ,salt colors 9 ! process describ$ bel[4 ,all dyes c1 soon] or lat]1 be dissociat$ f ! fibres to :i* !y are atta*$4 ,b if !y are 9 an insoluble condition !y drop (f 9 ! =m ( a p[d]1 & are wa%$ clean (f1 & leave %>p1 cle> outl9es on ! dy$ goods4 ,if1 h[ev]1 !y h gone on 9 solution !y w g (f 9 solution1 & are liable to ble$1 & /a9 light-color$ fibres ne> !m4 ,! e>li] dye/uffs ( ?is class 7 des]v$ly criticis$ z be+1 ev5 :5 c>efully appli$1 mu* giv5 to ble$+1 & also di/9ctly fugitive to ! action ( sunlight4 ,( late ye>s ! quality ( ^! dye/uffs has greatly improv$1 & ! be/ ( !m1 l ^? m5tion$ bel[1 :5 c>efully dy$ on cotton1 are fa/1 if n v fa/ to light1 al?\gh = wa%+ ! v be/ c h>dly be class$ ev5 z fairly fa/1 )\t aft]-treatm5t4 ,li/ ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs4-- ,badis*e-- ,oxam9e ,fa/ ,r$1 ,f ,cotton1 ,yell[1 ,g ,i ,/ilb5e ,yell[1 ,g ,k ,oxam9e ,blue1 ,b ,cotton ,black1 ,e1 extra ,cassella-- ,diam9e ,fa/ ,r$1 ,f ,diam9e ,fa/ ,yell[1 ,g ,g ,diam9e ,fa/ ,blue1 ,f ,f ,g ,diam9e ,fa/ ,black1 ,f ,elb]feld-- ,b5zo ,fa/ ,r$1 #h ,b ,l ,b5zo ,fa/ ,yell[1 #d ,b ,brilliant ,fa/ ,black1 #d ,b ,pluto ,black1 ,f1 extra ,kalle-- ,naph?am9e ,fa/ ,r$1 ,h ,naph?am9e ,fa/ ,yell[1 #b ,g ,l ,naph?am9e ,fa/ ,blue1 #d ,b ,l ,naph?am9e ,fa/ ,violet1 ,r ,l ,naph?am9e ,direct ,black ,metz-- ,dianil ,fa/ ,sc>let1 #d ,b ,s ,dianil ,orange1 ,g ,dianil ,yell[1 ,o ,o ,dianil ,fa/ ,blue1 #c ,b ,dianil ,fa/ ,black1 conc4 ,z above m5tion$1 ev5 ! v be/ dyes belong+ to ?is class ( ,salt colors1 give on cotton & l95 results only 8fairly fa/0 to wa%+4 ,z ! mod]n laundress is n av]se to us+ /rong] ag5ts ?an good laundry soap 9 h] wa%tub1 & n infrequ5tly indulges 9 consid]able am\nts ( wa%+ soda 7sodium c>bonate7 & ev5 ( blea*+ p[d]1 to clean quickly a dirty piece ( goods1 dyes t are 8fairly fa/0 accord+ to ! regul> /&>d1 w1 9 practice1 ne$ "s c>e sp5t on !m if !y are to hold _! color = long p]iods4 ,aga9/ light ! be/ ones are almo/ z fa/ z any dyes kn[n1 b none ( !m are a mat* = ! ,sulphur colors1 or especially ! ,vat colors1 :5 expos$ to sev]e wa%+4 ,aft]-treatm5t4--,! pr(essional dy]1 :o is occasionally call$ ^u to produce fa/ colors ) ^! dyes1 & ev5 ) ! inf]ior memb]s ( ?is class1 has f\nd v>i\s me?ods ( aft]-treatm5t1 by :i* ! colors are r5d]$ m p]man5t4 ,a favorite process1 :]e ! dy] is en\gh ( a *emi/ to c>ry x out1 consi/s ( mak+ an entirely new dye/uff 9 ! fibre1 g5]ally ( an entirely diff]5t %ade1 & ) mu* great] p[] ( resi/ance to wa%+ & to light1 by treat+ ! dy$ goods fir/ ) a mixture ( sodium nitrite & ( sulphuric acid1 &1 aft] ?is1 pass+ !m ?r\gh a solution ( "s organic *emical su* z c>bolic acid1 alpha- or beta-naph?ol1 or o!rs kn[n z develop]s4 ,?is process1 kn[n z 8diazotiz+ & develop+10 is consid]ably us$ 9 ! trade1 especially = v>i\s %ades ( black1 b is too complicat$ & delicate = craftsm5 9 g5]al4 ,a simpl] process is to w>m ! dy$ goods = five or t5 m9utes 9 a weak solution ( ! orange-color$ salt1 bi*romate ( pota%1 acidifi$ ) a little acetic acid--or ( ! n uncommon *emical1 sulphate ( copp]1 long kn[n to *emi/s z blue vitriol4 ,:5 ! be/ dyes are us$1 l ^? 9 ! prec$+ li/1 x is n (t5 necess>y to use ei!r ( ^! reag5ts4 ,b :51 z sometimes happ5s1 "o is oblig$ to use dyes ( ?is g5]al class1 b\ght at ! c\ntry /ore )\t a *ance ( kn[+ h[ fa/ !y are1 x is well to "k ab\t x4 ,= a piece ( goods ! size ( an ord9>y l95 skirt1 ! aft]-treat+ ba? w\ld be made z foll[s3 ,9 two & a half gallons ( hot wat]1 dissolve two tablespoonfuls ( sulphate ( copp]1 "o tablespoonful ( bi*romate ( pota%1 & two teaspoonfuls ( ord9>y acetic acid 7equival5t1 say1 to ?ree or f\r teaspoonfuls ( /rong v9eg>74 ,! goods1 aft] dye+ & r9s+1 b be=e dry+1 %\ld be soak$ 9 ?is ba? & heat$ = t5 m9utes until n f> f ! boil+ po9t4 ,!y %\ld !n be tak5 out1 r9s$ c>efully1 & dri$4 ,?is aft]-treatm5t does n b5efit e s+le color ( ?is class1 b x helps greatly ! fa/ness to light & to wa%+ ( almo/ all ( !m4 ,! *ief objection to x1 besides ! "t & exp5se1 is t ! %ade ( ! f9i%$ goods is (t5 consid]ably *ang$ by ! process4 ,prop]ties & ,uses ( ! ,salt ,colors4--,g5]ally speak+1 ! %ades produc$ by ! individual memb]s ( ?is gr\p cov] all ! colors ( ! ra9b[ & include sev]al good greys4 ,x is h>d1 h[ev]1 to get a full deep black on cotton or l95 ) ^! dyes1 )\t us+ ! 8diazotiz+ & develop+0 process ( aft]-treatm5t4 ,! dyes g on ! fibre 9 a soluble =m1 & unless a develop+ process l ?is is us$ !y comb9e directly ) ! fibre1 & d n =m a coat+ or lay] ^u x1 z d "s ( ! 8develop$0 dye/uffs4 ,accord+ly1 no matt] h[ fully or h[ deeply we dye a piece ( y>n or clo? ) a black dye ( ?is class1 ! f9i%$ goods w %[ grey1 a v d>k grey1 to be sure1 b /ill grey1 & n a flat1 heavy1 true black4 ,! color ( mo/ ( ! salt blacks is greatly improv$1 h[ev]--z well z _! fa/ness to light & wa%+--by soak+ ! dy$ goods1 aft] r9s+1 9 a solution conta9+ f\r or five spoonfuls ( =maldehyde to ! gallon4 ,?is same prop]ty1 h[ev]1 ( comb9+ directly ) ! fibre1 makes ! colors bright] & m brilliant ?an _m ( ! o!r classes1 especially 9 ! light] %ades4 ,accord+ly = bright1 pretty %ades ( p9ks1 blues1 yell[s1 & ( mix$ %ades1 fa/ to light1 b n v fa/ to wa%+1 v easily & simply appli$1 ^! colors are extremely valuable4 ,= in/ance1 9 dye+ l>ge quantities ( bright colors on calico or *eeseclo?1 = "s special occasion1 z a pageant or spectacle1 ^! are ! colors to use4 ,ano!r great advantage !y possess is t !y dye true2 t is1 !y d n alt] _! color :5 expos$ to ! air1 & ! color ( ! f9i%$ goods c be fairly e/imat$ f ! color ( ! dye-ba?4 ,accord+ly1 ! /ud5t is /rongly urg$ to practise ! art ( dye+ ) ^! colors4 ,!y are *eap & c be readily obta9$1 al?\gh n always ( ! v be/ quality1 "u ! "n ( ,diamond ,dyes = cotton1 ezy dyes1 etc41 f druggi/s & groc]ym5 all ov] ! c\ntry4 ,!y c be easily appli$ to *eeseclo?1 musl91 & o!r inexp5sive mat]ials1 & if c>e is tak5 to soak & boil ! goods ?or\ghly1 to l95s & heavy cottons4 ,9 case ( necessity !y c be us$ on wool & silk1 b1 z a rule1 _! use is limit$ to vegetable fibres4 ,!y are p>ticul>ly valuable to amateur dy]s & to beg9n]s 9 ! art1 because !y h great 8levell+0 p[]2 t is1 x is easy to dye ev5ly ) !m4 ,on ! o!r h&1 x is a nuisance1 (t5times1 to h to boil ! goods1 & ev5 !n ! colors are n really fa/ to wa%+4 ,at any rate1 be=e proce$+ to ! /udy ( ! m p]man5t b m complicat$ ,sulphur & ,vat colors1 ! art ( dye+ ev5 & ra9b[ %ades & at lea/ ! beg9n+s ( ! art ( comb9+ & mat*+ %ades %\ld be c>efully & consci5ti\sly work$ out ) ^! (t5 despis$1 b really v useful & valuable1 ,salt colors4 ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,!ory ,,& ,,practice ,,( ,,color ,,dye+ ,directly ! /ud5t has ma/]$ ! in/ruction conta9$ 9 ! ?ree previ\s *apt]s1 & c use ! dye+ app>atus & ! unmix$ dye/uffs s z to get reasonably fa/ colors on cotton & l95 goods1 x is "t to attack ! m difficult subject ( dye+ to %ade4 ,?is art is n an easy "o1 by any means1 & only a few fundam5tal pr9ciples c be le>n$ f a book4 ,to make any real progress 9 x1 con/ant & cont9u\s practice is necess>y2 ev5 !n1 unless ! /ud5t is naturally gift$ ) an eye capable ( readily detect+ any *anges ( color1 & has tra9$ x to di/+ui% & id5tify ! causes ( su* *anges1 little success 9 ! mat*+ ( colors c be hop$ =4 ,?is does n mean1 h[ev]1 t unless a dy] c mat* %ades p]fectly1 he _c turn out v int]e/+ &1 inde$1 beautiful results4 ,b x does mean t he w f9d x difficult1 if n impossible1 to reproduce su* results1 & w be frequ5tly h&icapp$ 9 try+ to utilize 8 dye+ skill & k comm]cially4 ,! beg9n] ?9ks--n unnaturally p]haps--t 9 ord] to get any consid]able v>iety ( %ades x is necess>y to h on h& a l>ge & v>i$ assortm5t ( dye/uffs2 & x is consequ5tly a surprise to f9d t skill$ work]s keep 9 /ock *iefly a good supply ( blue1 yell[1 & r$ only4 ,black is conv5i5t & useful1 b n ess5tial1 except+ = special purposes4 ,by mix+ ^! ?ree 8prim>y0 colors x is possible to get e conceivable %ade ne$$4 ,& ano!r po9t1 :i* w be emphasiz$ bel[ & :i* is also likely to be a surprise1 is t practically e pretty & agreeable %ade1 no matt] h[ delicate1 is compos$ ( all ?ree ( ^! prim>y colors4 ,blue & yell[ produce gre51 blue & r$ produce violet1 & yell[ & r$ produce orange1 :ile ! addition ( ! ?ird or 8complem5t>y0 color to any ( ^! comb9ations ( two makes grey1 :5 all ?ree colors are p]fectly balanc$1 & :5 "o color or ano!r pr$om9ates1 x is grey$ & s(t5$ by ! pres5ce ( small quantities ( ! o!r two4 ,exp]im5ts ) ,s+le ,colors ,! way to /udy color dye+ is1 fir/ ( all1 to get a cle> idea ( ! effect ( diff]5t /r5g?s ( ea* ( ^! ?ree prim>y colors 9 produc+ bo? light & d>k %ades ( a s+le color4 ,?is c be easily accompli%$ ) ! r$1 blue1 & yell[ ( ! ,salt dyes describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt]4 ,dissolve ea* color sep>ately & keep !m 9 sep>ate dye-pots s t y c readily dye pieces ( *eeseclo? or o!r *eap1 easy-dye+ mat]ials any light1 m$ium1 or d>k %ade1 to s]ve z a basis = future comp>isons4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,,prim>y ,,colors ,two color %ades--,r$ ,blue ,violet ,r$ ,yell[ ,orange ,yell[ ,blue ,gre5 ,complem5t>y colors--,r$ ,blue ,yell[ ,grey ,r$ ,gre5 ,blue ,orange ,grey ,yell[ ,violet ,ev5 ,dye+4--,fir/ wet ! clo? or y>n ?or\ghly by soak+ 9 hot wat]1 !n r9se well & wr+ x dry--if necess>y1 us+ a wr+]4 ,! dye/uff %\ld already be c>efully dissolv$ 9 a little boil+ wat]4 ,p\r "s ( ?is solution 7n too mu*1 = ! %ades %\ld all be pretty light7 into ! dye-pot half full ( lukew>m wat]4 ,!n quickly & :olly imm]se ! wet mat]ial1 /irr+ & work+ ab\t ) ! dye-/icks1 & let ! :ole heat /eadily until x boils4 ,aft] a few m9utes' boil+ take out ! mat]ial & r9se 9 cold wat] until x /ops ble$+4 ,:5 ?is is c>efully done1 good1 ev51 & smoo? %ades w result4 ,%ad$ ,effects4--,( m real int]e/1 al?\gh an abom9ation to mo/ pr(essional dy]s1 are ! %ad$ effects4 ,in/ead ( try+ to get ev51 smoo? colors1 ! clo? is int5tionally dy$ unev5ly to get effects ( light & %ade 9 ! color1 o!rwise impossible4 ,?is does n mean t a ske9 or piece ( clo? badly dy$ or discolor$ by "s accid5t or c>elessness %\ld be pr\dly exhibit$ z a piece ( really arti/ic dye+1 z is done occasionally1 by "s work]s1 ) pa9ful results4 ,x is only :5 ! "w is done c>efully & ?\ghtfully t %ad$ or s-call$ 8ra9b[0 effects may be obta9$ ^u ske9s1 basket mat]ials1 & clo?1 :i* are di/9ctly int]e/+ & beautiful1 ?\gh v diff]5t f ! regul> "w ( ! pr(essional dy]s4 ,_m me?ods ( obta9+ unique results 9 ?is "w w occur to ! /ud5t1 aft] "s practical exp]i5ce4 ,p]haps ! be/ way to beg9 is to take a piece ( *eeseclo?1 cut 9 ! =m ( a sc>f--say two y>ds or s 9 l5g?--& hemm$ on bo? ends1 if x is to be kept = exhibition or future use4 ,be=e x is wet1 tie x 9 a r tight knot 9 ! middle1 or1 if ! sc>f is long en\gh1 two knots ab\t six or eight in*es f ea* end4 ,= ?is fir/ piece tie a v simple knot by m]ely fold+ ! sc>f ov] on itself & pull+ ! goods tight4 ,!n wet ! clo? ?or\ghly & dye quickly 9 ! boil+ dye-liquor2 r9se (f1 & untie ! knots4 ,! op5 "p ( ! clo? w be f\nd dy$ ! full /r5g?1 & :]e !re 7 knots !re w be %ad$ places v>y+ f ! full color d[n to :ite4 ,ano!r me?od is to take ! wett$ sc>f 9 ! middle & gradually l[] ! ends into ! hot dye-liquor1 /opp+ j be=e ! middle rea*es ! dye4 ,if c>efully done ?is w give regul>ly %ad$ effects runn+ f :ite or v light at ! c5tre1 to heavy1 full %ades at ! ends4 ,( c\rse1 if pref]r$1 ! ends c be kept out ( ! dye-liquor & ! middle portions imm]s$4 ,?is w give a sc>f t is d>k 9 ! c5tre & light at ea* end--:i* is n s good a color arrangem5t1 ord9>ily1 z ! light c5tre & d>k ends4 ,! same c be done ) a squ>e piece ( clo?1 well wett$3 ?is w %ade 9 an int]e/+ mann]1 if held 9 ! middle & dipp$ sl[ly & gradually4 ,fur!r developm5ts ( ?is "w1 kn[n z 8,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w10 are describ$ 9 a foll[+ *apt]4 ,exp]im5ts ) ! ,second>y ,colors ,aft] ! above me?ods h be5 fairly ma/]$1 ! /ud5t %\ld make "s exp]im5ts 9 :i* two ( ! prim>y colors are mix$ toge!r1 or bett]1 sup]impos$ "o on ! o!r to %[ ! 8second>y0 %ades produc$ by ^! comb9ations4 ,?is c be done by mix+ ! colors two by two1 until ?ree ba?s ( gre51 violet1 & orange respectively are =m$ z be=e4 ,!n try dye+ fir/ = ev5 colors & lat] = ! %ad$ effects4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ exp]im5ts 9 ?is l9e are made by ! s-call$ 8d\ble %ad+0 me?od4 ,"h ! same ba?s ( /raight prim>y colors--r$ & blue & yell[--%\ld be us$ z 9 ! e>li] exp]im5ts2 b ! goods are fir/ dy$ 9 "o ba?1 & !n aft]-dy$ or 8topp$0 9 a second color4 ,a sc>f ( *eeseclo? is good = a fir/ attempt4 ,?is1 well wet1 is held at "o end & v sl[ly l[]$ into ! hot ba?1 until all b ab\t six in*es ( ! entire l5g? is imm]s$ 9 ! dye4 ,?is mu* is left free f color4 ,try a blue dye color = ?is s]ies ( %ades1 fad+ ev5ly & smoo?ly f ! deepe/ full blue at "o end to a pure :ite at ! o!r4 ,aft] r9s+ ) wat] till ! ble$+ is ov]1 rev]se ! sc>f1 hold+ x by ! opposite end1 & l[] x sl[ly & gradually into a ba? (1 let u say1 yell[1 keep+ ab\t six in*es out ( ! dye z be=e4 ,?is w produce a sc>f %ad$ f cle> blue at "o end to cle> yell[ at ! o!r end & %[+ ! :ole range ( gre5 %ades produc$ by mix+ ^! two colors1 along its l5g?4 ,simil> te/s made ) r$ & blue1 & !n ) r$ & yell[1 w emphasize to ! /ud5t's m9d ! fact t gre5 is =m$ f blue & yell[2 violet f r$ & blue2 & orange f r$ & yell[2 & t ea* comb9ation gives an inf9ite v>iety ( int]m$iate %ades1 accord+ to ! comp>ative /r5g? ( ! individual dyes4 ,mat*+ ,colors ,! next /ep is to dye "s pieces ev5ly ) gre51 violet1 & orange1 made by two ( ! prim>y colors1 & !n to try mat*+ ^! ) fre%1 newly-mix$ ba?s ( ! same dyes4 ,x w be f\nd "h t success dep5ds ^u go+ sl[ly2 & ^u beg9n+ ) light %ades & build+ ! color up to ! desir$ /r5g? c>efully1 by means ( successive dipp+s4 ,note t ! color ( clo? :5 wet is mu* d>k] ?an :5 dry4 ,"s dy]s hold ! wet clo? to ! bright sky & look ?r\gh x1 to get an idea ( :at ! f9i%$ color w be l2 b positively c]ta9 & satisfactory results are arriv$ at only by wett+ ! sample to be mat*$ or dry+ ! piece t is be+ dy$1 s t bo? sample & piece are equally wet or dry1 :ile _! color is be+ comp>$4 ,! real difficulty ( color dye+ is n met ) until ! /ud5t tries to obta9 %ades embody+ all ?ree ( ! prim>y colors4 ,a v few exp]im5ts w quickly %[ t ) mo/ mod]n dye/uffs x is h>d to get s(t1 pleasant tones ) ! use ( only two colors4 ,natural colors1 z we f9d !m 9 ! sky1 wat]1 mead[1 & woodl&s1 are nev] pure2 !y are inv>iably mix$4 ,& our eyes are s accu/om$ to !m t %ades dy$ ) simple or pure colors look h>d1 cold1 & inh>moni\s4 ,mixtures ( two colors are bett] & s(t] ?an s+le colors1 b /ill r h>d4 ,b :5 ! second>y %ade result+ f ! comb9ation ( two prim>y colors is mix$ ) ev5 a small quantity ( ! ?ird prim>y color1 ! result is inv>iably a s(t & pleas+ tone4 ,! above /atem5ts presuppose t x is possible1 9 practice1 to obta9 good dye/uffs 9 ea* class1 :i* are absolutely pure1 clean %ades ( blue1 yell[1 & r$ )\t any admixture :atev]4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 :ile ! artificial dye/uffs are mu* m pure1 & h5ce mu* m h>d & brilliant ?an ! be/ natural colors1 !y /ill 9 _m1 if n inde$1 9 mo/ cases1 :5 c>efully /udi$1 %[ %ades t are mix$ & n pure4 ,x is v r>e to f9d a blue t does n incl9e a little to ! yell[ 7a ,blue ,g z x w\ld probably be labell$7 or else conta9 a trace ( violet or r$ 7,blue ,r1 or ,,rr74 ,! r$s are almo/ inv>iably ei!r sc>lets1 conta9+ a trace ( yell[1 or crimsons conta9+ blue4 ,& ! yell[s1 also1 are v apt to t5d t[>ds orange or occasionally %[ a trace ( gre54 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 complicates ! problem = ! practical dy] greatly1 & means t in/ead ( be+ able to cov] ! :ole range ( %ades ) a r$1 blue1 & yell[1 x is frequ5tly1 if n always1 necess>y to h "s mix$ colors1 giv+ %>p1 cle> %ades ( violet1 gre51 & orange respectively1 to obta9 c]ta9 effects4 ,! foll[+ diagram w p]haps make ?is m cle>4 ,9 ?is ! ?ree prim>y colors h be5 divid$1 ea* into two %ades z indicat$ by ! %ade lett]s1 ,r mean+ r$1 ,b blue1 & ,g yell[ 7,g]man gelb7 %ades ( ! colors4 ,by comb9+ ^! colors z %[n 9 ! table1 clean1 cle> %ades w be giv51 :]eas o!r comb9ations w\ld be likely to spoil ! %ades4 ,illu/ration3 ,,diagram ,,( ,,mix$ ,,colors ,r$ ,b ,blue ,r ,violet ,blue ,r ,r$ ,b ,violet ,yell[ ,r ,r$ ,g ,orange ,r$ ,b ,orange ,r$ ,g ,blue ,r ,gre5 ,blue ,g ,yell[ ,r ,gre5 ,yell[ ,g ,r$ ,g ,yell[ ,r ,orange ,blue ,g ,violet ,blue ,r ,yell[ ,b ,orange ,yell[ ,r ,r$ ,g ,violet ,r$ ,b ,blue ,g ,yell[ ,b ,gre5 ,yell[ ,b ,blue ,g ,gre5 ,take1 = example1 a special case1 namely to turn a piece ( crimson calico into a full ri* sc>let4 ,! crimson color conta9s a great deal ( r$1 mix$ ) a little blue4 ,if ! piece 7 aft]-dy$1 or 8topp$10 ) yell[1 ev5 9 small quantities1 ! result w\ld probably be 8muddy10 ! yell[ & blue toge!r be+ 9 su* /r5g? z to s]i\sly dim9i% ! /r5g? ( ! r$1 & make x m or less br[n 9 %ade4 ,if1 h[ev]1 a r$di% %ade ( orange 7 us$ = %ad+1 in/ead ( yell[1 ! r$ ( ! mixture w\ld be con/antly increas$1 :ile ! yell[ 0 8kill+0 ! blue1 i4e41 turn+ x1 ) a little r$1 into grey2 & be=e long ! crimson1 or blui% %ade ( r$1 w\ld turn fir/ into a true b s(t5$ r$1 ) nei!r blue nor yell[ pr$om9at+1 & f9ally into a sc>let1 ) di/9ct traces ( yell[4 ,9 mak+ ^! ,?ree-color ,%ades1 !re=e1 ! compon5t p>ts ( ea* dye/uff us$ mu/ be /udi$2 & 9 e case c>e mu/ be tak5 to h ! ?ird color1 :atev] x is1 add$ 9 su* m9ute quantities z only to s(t5 & n to spoil ! fir/ %ade4 ,a teaspoonful1 sometimes ev5 a few drops ( a solution ( "o /rong color1 w g5]ally be en\gh to s(t51 & take ! edge (f1 "s gallons ( dye-liquor conta9+ a h>d1 cle> mixture ( ! o!r two4 ,a cupful1 on ! o!r h&1 or ev5 two or ?ree tablespoonfuls might utt]ly spoil ! ba? & turn x into 8mud10 z a dy] w\ld say4 ,x is wor? m5tion+ "h t1 z a g5]al ?+1 x is di/9ctly m int]e/+ to build up %ades by dipp+ fir/ 9 "o ba?1 & !n topp+ ) ! second & ! ?ird color ?an x is to mix ! diff]5t colors to ! desir$ %ade fir/ & !n dye ! mat]ial 9 ! s+le ba?4 ,on a small scale !re is ! same diff]5ce1 al?\gh n s m>k$ & less easily notic$1 z t betwe5 ev5 dye+ & ra9b[ dye+4 ,!re is (t5 a loss 9 regul>ity & ev5ness1 b ! ga9 9 life & light :5 "o color %9es ?r\gh ano!r :i* cov]s x m ?an comp5sates4 ,?is ov]lay+ is n s p]ceptible 9 ! ev5 dye+ ( f9e1 ?9 mat]ials1 :e!r y>n or clo?2 b ) co>se1 heavy y>ns & ?ick textiles1 effects c be obta9$ by aft]-dye+ :i* _c be approa*$ :5 ! goods are dy$ 9 "o ba?4 ,mat*+ ,%ades4--,"s p1 ,i believe1 g s f> z to say t1 9 ord] to be really exp]t at true %ade mat*+ :5 us+ ! ?ree colors 9 dye+1 a dy] mu/ h begun to le>n ! art 9 ! p]son ( 8 gr&fa!r1 n9ety or a hundr$ ye>s ago1 & kept 9 practise ev] s9ce4 ,x c]ta9ly is true t h]$ity & e>ly tra9+ bo? h a great deal to d ) skill 9 ?is art1 & a good color dy] w %[ an almo/ uncanny in/9ct1 z he in/antly picks out diff]5ces 9 %ade :i* an untra9$ eye w\ld nev] notice1 & )\t any hesitation prescribes ! exact rem$y = ! defect4 ,/ill !re are pl5ty ( good1 ev5 fir/-class dy]s1 n[adays1 :o h le>n$ _! art q late 9 life1 ) ! aid ( a good eye & intellig5t p]sev]ance4 ,! *ief rule to rememb] is ?is3 ,r$1 blue1 & yell[1 :5 mix$ 9 equal /r5g?1 make a neutral grey or black4 ,accord+ly any "o color w =m grey or1 z we may say1 w neutralize1 or be complem5t>y to a mixture ( ! o!r two4 ,?us r$ w =m grey ) gre52 blue ) orange1 & yell[ ) violet4 ,accord+ly if !re is too mu* r$ 9 ! dye-ba?1 x c be kill$ by ! addition ( a little gre52 & vice v]sa4 ,! same is true ) ! o!r complem5t>y colors4 ,if ?is simple rule be kept cle>ly 9 m9d1 mo/ ( ! problems ( mat*+ colors & ( gett+ pleasant & h>moni\s %ades c be work$ out easily4 ,x is *iefly a matt] ( practice1 & p]sev]ance4 ,! /ud5t is /rongly advis$ to attack ?is /udy 9 ?ree ways3 ,fir/1 mix ! ?ree prim>y colors toge!r 9 "o ba?1 to =m def9ite %ades--grey1 br[n1 olive gre51 /eel blue1 etc42 !n dye ! clo? 9 ! ba? to see h[ ! colors look :5 on ! mat]ials & dri$4 ,second1 to dye a piece ( clo? "o mix$ %ade & by topp+ ) o!r colors1 to alt] t %ade to mat* "s %ade previ\sly select$4 ,= in/ance1 dye a piece a good %ade ( r$di% or copp] br[n1 & !n try to 8kill0 ! r$ 9 x )\t mat]ially deep5+ ! %ade1 i4e41 *ange x f a copp] br[n to a greyi% or dirt br[n ( ab\t ! same dep? ( color4 ,v pretty & in/ructive exp]im5ts c be made along ?is l9e ( build+ up s(t grey %ades1 by dye+ ! clo? successively 9 weak ba?s ( ! ?ree prim>y colors4 ,z fa/ z "o color pr$om9ates1 x c be kill$ by dipp+ into successive ba?s ( ! o!r two4 ,attractive sc>fs & table cov]s c be made ) a little c>e1 by knott+ ! mat]ial & dye+ light ra9b[ %ades ( ! ?ree colors1 "o aft] ! o!r1 *ang+ ! knots or ti$ portions aft] ea* ba?4 ,prop]ly done1 ?is w produce rem>kably int]e/+1 opalesc5t effects1 ea* color be+ ton$ & s(t5$ by ! o!r two1 al?\gh pr$om9at+ 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! mat]ial4 ,:51 9 ! op]ation ( ra9b[ dye+1 /rongly contra/+ colors h be5 us$ ) unhappy results 7su* z ! r$1 yell[1 & blue tri-color effects t "s /ud5ts w produce7 try ! effects ( ton+1 or 8cov]+10 z x is (t5 call$1 ) "s s(t1 neutral color :i* comb9es 9 itself all ! contra/+ tones1 or else ) a color t is complem5t>y to ! mo/ obnoxi\s "o1 s(t5+ t "o & /r5g!n+ ! weak] %ades4 ,grey1 ( c\rse1 c be us$ = ?is2 b 9 g5]al1 a s(t %ade ( br[n w be f\nd v valuable = tak+ ! edge (f ( too viol5t contra/s4 ,! p]manganate br[n 7,manganese bronze71 describ$ 9 ! fir/ *apt]1 c be us$ ) advantage = ?is purpose4 ,x is n difficult = a skilful dy] to mat* any desir$ %ade by us+ ?ree complem5t>y colors1 r$1 blue1 & yell[1 provid$1 ( c\rse1 t ^! are pure & unmix$4 ,x (t5 happ5s1 h[ev]1 t aft] mat*+ c>efully a s(t mix$ %ade by daylight1 ! colors appe> entirely diff]5t :5 view$ by artificial light1 & especially by ord9>y gaslight4 ,daylight1 z we are accu/om$ to x1 is comp>atively ev5ly balanc$ 9 color1 is 9 fact a :ite light4 ,b artificial light z a rule is di/9ctly color$1 & x is difficult1 ?\gh n[ n impossible1 to f9d a light t s closely resembles daylight t colors c be mat*$ at night4 ,if ! light1 = in/ance1 has a blui% t+e1 l "s k9ds ( electric light1 x w kill ! correspond+ orange 9 a %ade1 :ile yell[ light1 su* z commonly results f ! use ( oil1 c&les1 or gas 7less m>k$ :5 inc&esc5t mantles are us$71 dulls & ev5 black5s lav5d]1 violet1 & purple %ades1 :ile hav+ little or no effect ^u yell[1 orange1 & gre54 ,x is !re=e advisable :5 mat*+ %ades t are to be us$ at night n to use ?ree-color %ades :]ev] t is possible1 b to get ! desir$ s(t effects by cov]+ directly ) grey 7i4e41 light %ades ( black7 on top ( a s+le or two-color %ade4 ,,*apt] ,v ,,! ,,sulphur ,,colors ,ne>ly ?irty ye>s ago "o ( ! ,fr5* color h\ses put on ! m>ket a new dye/uff :i* x nam$ 8,ca*\ de ,laval02 ,ca*\ be+ ! same z cate*u or 8cut*10 ! natural br[n dye/uff long kn[n & us$ 9 ! ,ea/1 & ,laval be+ ! "n ( ! t[n 9 ,france :]e "o ( its discov]]s 0 born4 ,?is dye/uff 0 made by heat+ sawdu/1 bran1 turf1 leaves1 or o!r vegetable sub/ances ) ! /rongly r$uc+ alkal9e salt1 sodium sulphide1 9 ! abs5ce ( air4 ,! product1 dissolv$ 9 wat]1 makes a d>k gre5 solution :i*1 aft] /&+ 9 ! air a %ort "t1 turns br[n & deposits a f9e br[ni% p[d]4 ,cotton or l951 heat$ 9 a fre% solution ( ?is dye/uff1 is color$ gre51 b1 :5 wrung out & expos$ to air1 ! gre5 color1 :i* easily wa%es out1 *anges into a v p]man5t1 ?\gh dull & un9t]e/+1 %ade ( greyi% br[n4 ,?is ,ca*\ de ,laval 0 n a success1 comm]cially1 because ( its poor color4 ,x exi/$1 h[ev]1 z a *emical curiosity = "s twelve or f\rte5 ye>s2 !n sudd5ly1 )9 a few mon?s or ev5 weeks ( "o ano!r1 all ! great color h\ses put out a :ole s]ies ( colors--*iefly br[ns1 blues1 yell[s1 & blacks--all =m$1 l ?is old 8,ca*\ de ,laval10 by ! action ( sodium sulphide or1 :i* am\nts to ! same ?+1 ( sulphur & cau/ic alkali1 ^u organic mat]ial1 & all capable ( dye+ cotton & l951 9 "o ba?1 colors extremely fa/ to wa%+ & g5]ally q fa/ to light1 aft] !y h be5 8set0 by exposure to ! air4 ,:ile 9 g5]al ^! are kn[n & id5tifi$ z ! ,sulphur colors1 ! diff]5t manufactur]s h giv5 special class names to _! own s]ies ?us3 ,imm$ial 7,cassella71 ,katig5e 7,elb]feld71 ,kyrog5e 7,badis*e71 ,pyrog5e 7,klip/e971 ,?iog5e 7,metz71 ,?ion 7,kalle74 ,^! colors are us$ almo/ exclusively = dye+ cotton & l951 :5 %ades fa/ to wa%+ are requir$1 )\t fir/ putt+ !m ?r\gh a mordant+ process4 ,! dye+ is done 9 "o ba?1 ) little m difficulty ?an 9 ! case ( ! ,salt colors describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt]2 &1 :ile n fa/] to light ?an ! be/ ( t class1 !y are n ne>ly s liable to ble$4 ,on wool !y are r>ely1 if ev]1 us$4 ,wool is almo/ always dy$ ) ! acid colors 9 an acid ba?2 & n[adays ! range ( ^! colors is s great & ! be/ ( !m are s v satisfactory1 t !re is h>dly ev] a necessity = us+ colors ( ano!r class4 ,nei!r are ^! ,sulphur colors (t5 us$ on silk1 al?\gh me?ods h be5 devis$ = employ+ !m 9 special cases4 ,all ! animal fibres1 h[ev]1 & silk especially1 are v easily 8t5d]$10 & inde$ de/roy$1 by heat+ 9 an alkal9e solution4 ,& s x is v easy to spoil a ske9 or piece ( silk by dye+ x1 9 ! usual mann]1 ) ^! dyes1 dissolv$ z !y mu/ be 9 ! /rongly alkal9e sodium sulphide4 ,! pres5ce 9 ! ba? ( glucose 7corn syrup1 molasses1 etc471 or ( glue or gelat9e1 helps greatly to protect ^! fibres f ! action ( ! *emicals4 ,b ev5 :5 dy$ ) great c>e1 us+ glucose1 & dye+ ! goods = b a %ort "t 9 a ba? /rong 9 color b weak 9 alkali1 ! results are n v satisfactory1 s f> z %ade & lu/re are conc]n$4 ,!y h ! advantage1 h[ev]1 ( be+ extremely fa/ to wa%+1 m s1 ev51 ?an ! ,salt colors4 ,9 g5]al1 h[ev]1 silk %\ld be dy$ ) ! ,acid colors = ord9>y "w1 & ) ! ,salt colors :5 fa/ness to wa%+ is requir$4 ,! ,sulphur colors %\ld be res]v$ = cotton & l954 ,on m]c]iz$ cotton & artificial silk ^! dye/uffs take easily & well1 :5 dy$ 9 cold or lukew>m ba?s4 ,! lu/re1 h[ev]1 ( ! f9i%$ goods is apt to be less ?an :5 ,salt colors or ,basic colors are us$4 ,,dye+ ,,directions ,= cotton & l951 measure out ! color & dissolve x 9 hot wat] to :i* has be5 add$ twice its am\nt ( sodium sulphide 7cry/als7 & a qu>t] or ?ird ! am\nt ( soda a%4 7,9 all ^! =mul wa%+ soda may be us$ 9 place ( soda a%--only 9 quantities almo/ twice z l>ge47 ,x is advisable1 ?\gh n absolutely necess>y1 to add also to ! dye-ba? "o or two tablespoonfuls ( ,turkey r$ oil--a k9d ( liquid soap made by treat+ ca/or oil fir/ ) sulphuric acid & !n ) soda4 ,?is prev5ts ! =mation ( a d>k scum on ! surface ( ! dye-liquor1 :i* is likely to cause /reaks 9 ! f9i%$ goods1 h>d to wa% out4 ,into ! dye-liquor imm]se ! well-wett$ goods1 & heat !m1 turn+ !m con/antly1 & keep+ !m z f> z possible away f ! air & "u ! level ( ! liquid4 ,j be=e ! boil+ po9t is rea*$ take out ! goods1 & add salt 9 ! proportion (1 say1 two spoonfuls ( salt = e teaspoonful ( dye/uff us$4 ,/ir till ! salt is all dissolv$1 put ! goods back1 & cont9ue to turn !m z be=e1 keep+ ! goods d[n "u ! liquor & n all[+ x to boil4 ,aft] dye+ j bel[ ! boil+ po9t = fifte5 m9utes1 remove ! heat1 take out ! goods1 &--z quickly z possible--run !m c>efully backw>d & =w>d ?r\gh ! wr+] 7*ang+ ! folds ( ! goods ea* "t7 until ! excess ( dye liquor is entirely squeez$ out4 ,!n %ake !m out1 hang !m up = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes 9 ! air to oxidize & 8set10 & aft] ?is wa% !m ?or\ghly 9 a ba? ( boil+ soapsuds until all ! loose color has be5 remov$4 ,f9ally1 r9se !m free f soap1 & hang up to dry4 ,:5 light %ades are desir$1 or :5 ! goods are t5d]1 ! dye+ c be done at lukew>m temp]ature1 & )\t ! addition ( salt1 ) no detrim5t to ! fa/ness ( ! color4 ,9 ?is case1 h[ev]1 mu* ( ! dye/uff w be wa/$ 9 ! unexhau/$ dye-liquor4 ,li/ ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs4-- ,badis*e-- ,kyrog5e ,br[n1 ,r ,r ,o ,kyrog5e ,yell[1 ,g ,g1 extra ,kyrog5e ,direct ,blue1 #c ,b1 extra ,kyrog5e ,black1 ,t ,g ,o ,cassella-- ,imm$ial ,bordeaux1 ,g ,imm$ial ,yell[ ,olive1 #e ,g ,imm$ial ,direct ,blue1 ,b ,elb]feld--,katig5 ,yell[1 ,g ,f1 extra ,katig5 ,indigo1 ,c ,l ,g1 extra ,katig5 ,deep ,black1 ,b ,kalle-- ,?io ,indigo ,r$1 ,b ,?ion ,yell[1 #c ,g1 extra ,?ion ,blue1 ,b1 conc4 ,?ion ,black1 ,g1 conc4 ,metz-- ,?iog5e ,br[n1 ,g ,r ,?iog5e ,gold ,yell[1 ,a ,?iog5e ,gre51 ,g ,?iog5e ,cyan9e1 ,g ,?iog5e ,black1 ,m ,a1 extra /rong ,^! ,sulphur colors are p>ticul>ly /rong 9 v>i\s %ades ( black1 blue1 & br[n4 ,"s ( ! yell[ %ades1 also1 are v fa/ & good4 ,! class is defici5t1 h[ev]1 9 r$s--! only "o s f> discov]$ be+ ,?io ,indigo ,r$ ,b 7,kalle71 :i* really belongs to ! ,indigo or ,vat colors1 describ$ 9 ! next *apt]1 & :i* does n give v p[]ful %ades :5 us$ z a ,sulphur color4 ,z a rule1 ^! dyes produce %ades t are s(t]1 deep]1 & mu* less brilliant ?an ^? ( ! ,direct ,cotton or ,salt colors4 ,be+ usually mix$1 & n simple prim>y1 colors1 !y are n v easy to dye to %ade1 especially z ! color ( ! fre%ly dy$ goods *anges consid]ably :ile x is be+ oxidiz$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 !y give1 )\t mix+1 extremely pleasant tones1 & are all v fa/ to wa%+ &1 at any rate z reg>ds ! select$ colors1 are fa/ to light4 ,:5 expos$ to /rong direct sunlight "s ev5 ( ! be/ ( !m are liable to *ange _! %ade some:at2 b ev5 !n !y w be f\nd to fade to nice1 s(t %ades n out ( h>mony ) ! orig9al4 ,:5 v great fa/ness to light is necess>y1 x may be wor? :ile to aft]-treat !m z describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,iii1 by keep+ ! dy$ goods = tw5ty or ?irty m9utes 9 a hot ba? 7n boil+7 conta9+ small am\nts ( copp] sulphate1 bi*romate ( pota%1 & acetic acid4 ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,! ,,indigo ,,or ,,vat ,,colors ,hi/ory4--,mo/ ( ! colors ( ?is gr\p h be5 discov]$ & put on ! m>ket )9 ! la/ two ye>s4 ,?us !y =m ! mo/ rec5t z well z1 9 _m respects1 ! mo/ int]e/+ &1 p]haps1 ! mo/ important class ( mod]n dye/uffs4 ,on ! o!r h&1 to ?is same gr\p belong n only indigo itself1 :i* has be5 kn[n & valu$ 9 ! ,ea/ f ! e>lie/ ages1 b also t mo/ fam\s ( all ! anci5t dye/uffs1 ,tyrian ,purple4 ,indigo itself does n exi/ z su* 9 nature2 b x is easily =m$ by oxidation1 or ! exposure to air1 ( a sub/ance--,indican--:i* occurs z su*1 or c be produc$ by a simple process ( f]m5tation1 9 ! juices ( _m widely di/ribut$ plants4 ,accord+ly1 ev5 q b>b>\s races 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w notic$ ! deep p]man5t blue /a9s =m$ on _! bodies & clo?+ :5 !y cru%$1 accid5tally or on purpose1 ! leaves & /ems ( ! v>i\s ,indig(]4 ,gradually !y le>n$ to extract ! color 9 a solid & p]man5t =m s t !y c\ld dye ) x1 in/ead ( us+ ! juice ( ! fre% plant itself--& !n !y took to cultivat+ ! plants4 ,^! plants--,indig(]a ,anil1 ,i4 t9ctoria1 & o!rs orig9ally f\nd wild h be51 up to ! la/ f\r or five ye>s1 ext5sively cultivat$ 9 _m tropical c\ntries1 notably 9 ,india 7"s ( ! be/ qualities came f ! prov9ce ( ,b5gal1 & h5ce ! common "n = ! natural dye/uff--,b5gal ,indigo71 ,japan1 ,*9a1 ,java1 ,s\? & ,c5tral ,am]ica1 & ,africa4 ,f ^! plants ! indigo ( comm]ce1 9 ! =m ( d>k blue granul> lumps ) a *>act]i/ic copp]y lu/re1 0 prep>$ by a comp>atively simple process ( f]m5tation1 extraction1 & oxidation4 ,indigo may also be obta9$1 al?\gh 9 small quantities only1 & 9 an impure condition1 f o!r plants4 ,notably among ^! is ,isatis t9ctoria1 or woad1 :i* 9 e>ly days 0 ext5sively cultivat$ 9 ,engl& & ! ,cont95t1 & :i*1 ev5 n[1 is us$ 9 small quantities 9 "s processes ( indigo dye+4 ,artificial ,indigo4--,! exact composition ( indigo 0 fir/ det]m9$ "s sixty ye>s ago1 & f t "t on "s ( ! greate/ *emi/s ( ! _w h be5 attempt+ to prep>e x1 artificially1 f "s comp>atively inexp5sive s\rce1 obta9$ f coal t> or else:]e4 ,z e>ly z #ahge ! problem 0 solv$1 at lea/ f a sci5tific /&po9t1 b ! process prov$ too exp5sive = comm]cial purposes4 ,dur+ ! la/ five ye>s1 h[ev]1 at lea/ two ( ! great ,g]man firms h discov]$ me?ods = mak+1 9 any desir$ quantities & at v reasonable exp5se1 absolutely pure indigo f "s ( ! important coal-t> d]ivatives4 ,& s9ce t "t ! cultivation ( ! indigo plant has prov$ s unpr(itable t x has be5 almo/ entirely ab&on$1 & ! l& =m]ly us$ = ?is crop is be+ turn$ ov] to o!r &1 at pres5t1 m useful purposes4 ,?is syn!sis--i4e41 *emical =mation--( indigo f coal-t> products has be5 ju/ly reg>d$ z "o ( ! great triumphs ( mod]n sci5ce4 ,"r "h let me impress ^u my read]s ?is fact3 ! real dye/uff1 indigo1 is absolutely ! same mat]ial1 :e!r x comes mix$ ) a great mass ( impurities1 z 9 ! woad2 or :e!r x conta9s f #e to #be p] c5t4 ( =eign matt] ( little or no value1 z 9 ! ,b5gal or natural indigo2 or :e!r we get x f ,metz or ! ,badis*e ,company1 *emically pure1 ei!r 9 ! dry /ate or1 ?9n$ ) wat]1 9 ! =m ( a #bj p] c5t4 pa/e4 ,x is positively ! same dye2 & be+ absolutely )\t contam9ation ( any k9d1 ! artificial or syn!tic dye/uff pres5ts advantages 9 ! matt] ( purity ( %ade1 ease & surety ( manipulation1 & p]man5ce ( ! color produc$1 :i* c\ld nev] be obta9$ be=e its introduction4 ,application ( ,indigo4--,! pr9ciples ( indigo dye+ are ! same n[ z ) ! ,egyptians1 ! only diff]5ce be+ 9 ! means us$ to br+ ab\t ! *emical *anges involv$4 ,indigo itself is a blue solid1 insoluble 9 wat]1 acids1 & alkalies1 & practically unaffect$ by sunlight4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! elem5t hydrog5 be add$ to x1 or1 z ! *emi/ w\ld say1 if x is 8r$uc$0 by ! action ( any "o ( num]\s deoxidiz+ or r$uc+ ag5ts1 ! indigo blue is *ang$ to a new sub/ance1 indigo :ite1 :i* is almo/ colorless1 & :i* dissolves1 9 ! pres5ce ( alkalies1 to a bright yell[ liquid4 ,if cotton1 wool1 pap]1 wood1 or inde$ almo/ any solid mat]ials 7noticeably ! f+]s & nails1 z "s ( my read]s may f9d out71 are imm]s$ 9 ! solution1 !y w absorb "s ( ?is indigo :ite1 & !n1 on exposure to ! air1 ! :ite indigo w rapidly take up oxyg51 & become conv]t$ into ! insoluble blue color+ matt]4 ,f]m5tation ,me?od4--,until rec5tly ! me?ods us$ = r$uc+ ! indigo--i4e41 *ang+ ! solid blue into ! soluble :ite--7 j ab\t ! same z ^? us$ by ! anci5ts1 & 7 bas$ ^u "s k9d ( f]m5tation1 usually alcoholic4 ,x 0 f\nd out at a v e>ly date t if indigo1 gr\nd up ) wat] to a pa/e & r5d]$ alkal9e by ! addition ( wood a%es1 lime1 or o!r simple alkali1 7 mix$ ) grape juice or any o!r sug>y liquid1 & !n kept w>m & all[$ to f]m5t1 ! result+ fluid w\ld conta9 ! dye/uff dissolv$ 9 a =m suitable = dye+4 ,! vessel 9 :i* ?is process 0 conduct$ 0 kn[n z a vat1 & ! process ( indigo dye+ is /ill call$ 8,vat ,dye+40 ,disadvantages4--,at ! v be/ ?is me?od is sl[1 unc]ta91 & difficult to manage1 especially on a small scale4 ,9 wool dye+1 to ?is day1 a few vats are /ill to be f\nd :]e syrup1 gr\nd madd] root or1 9 "s in/ances1 woad1 :eat bran1 & o!r mat]ials :i* f]m5t readily 9 ! pres5ce ( alkali1 are /irr$ up ) w>m wat] & soda1 & !n all[$ to /&4 ,9 two or ?ree days !y are 9 active f]m5tation1 & ! indigo1 9 ! =m ( pa/e1 is add$ & well /irr$ 94 ,aft] mu* fur!r delay1 if all goes well1 ! indigo is f9ally 8r$uc$10 &1 if ! am\nt ( alkali1 ! temp]ature1 ! conc5tration ( ! vat1 & v>i\s o!r factors are c>efully att5d$ to1 ! ba? c be us$ = sev]al days1 or ev5 weeks1 )\t be+ made ov] aga92 fre% indigo & o!r +r$i5ts be+ add$1 f "t to "t1 z ne$$4 ,cotton1 l951 wool1 & ev5 silk c be dipp$ 9 ?is ba?1 :i* %\ld be light gre5i% yell[ 9 color1 ) a blue or blui%-gre5 scum or coat+1 :]e ! indigo is oxidiz$ on ! surface4 ,goods imm]s$ 9 ?is ba? turn yell[1 & !n1 :5 tak5 out1 wrung free f loose liquor1 & expos$ to ! air1 ! yell[ color quickly *anges to a p]man5t blue4 ,a s]i\s drawback to all ^! v>i\s f]m5tation vats is t a good deal ( ! dye/uff is always spoilt--i4e41 decompos$ into colorless comp\nds :i* c nev] be reg5]at$ or made useful4 ,inde$1 ! loss f ?is cause frequ5tly am\nts to #bj or #be ( all ! dye us$1 & occasionally1 especially 9 hot wea!r1 & on a small scale1 to f> m4 ,b1 ap>t f ! actual loss 9 valuable dye/uff1 !re is a mu* m s]i\s drawback to ?is me?od ( indigo dye+1 namely1 ! wa/e ( "t & en]gy involv$4 ,!re is always a consid]able delay 9 gett+ a f]m5tation vat fairly />t$1 ev5 :]e all ! conditions are favorable2 & :5 x is runn+ smoo?ly1 ! r$uc+ process is a v sl[ "o4 ,fur!rmore1 ! indigo1 n be+ dissolv$ 9 ! liquid b only susp5d$ 9 x1 has a con/ant t5d5cy to s9k to ! bottom 9 ! =m ( a blue mud1 & ?us escape ! *emical action ( ! f]m5tation gases entirely4 ,a %ort "t ago a tea*] ( h&icraft dye+ 0 expatiat+1 9 my pres5ce1 ^u ! impropriety ( us+ any ( ! new *emical processes = dye+1 & insi/$ t ! only way to dye indigo 0 to set up a vat1 & fe$ x1 & "w ) x z our ance/ors us$ to4 ,x 0 sugge/$ to h] t x w\ld be at lea/ two or ?ree days be=e clo? c\ld be dy$ 9 su* a vat4 8,eight or t5 days at ! e>lie/10 0 ! reply4 ,& :5 x 0 h9t$ t ! vat w\ld h to be frequ5tly /irr$ dur+ all t "t1 %e pr\dly answ]$1 8,/irr$ regul>ly & ?or\ghly e s+le half-h\r1 night & day1 dur+ ! :ole p]iod40 8,h--m10 rem>k$ a by/&]1 8t's a little worse ?an sitt+ up ) a baby sick ( ! cr\p40 ,someh[ ! great advantage ( ?is p>ticul> process ov] ! mod]n ones1 by :i* a prop] ba? c be prep>$ 9 p]haps five m9utes1 fail$ to impress itself on "s ( h] li/5]s4 ,mod]n ,*emical ,vats4--,z soon z x 0 und]/ood j :at *emical action 0 go+ on 9 ! vats1 & ! object ( x1 *emi/s began to f9d out me?ods = r$uc+ ! indigo )\t ! necessity ( a long1 t$i\s1 & ev5 na/y f]m5tation process4 ,!y fir/ introduc$ ! 8copp]as-lime0 vat1 :]e ! r$uction 0 done by ! use ( f]r\s sulphate 7gre5 vitriol or copp]as71 & slak$ lime 0 ! alkali us$ to keep ! indigo :ite dissolv$4 ,lat] !y introduc$ z9c du/1 a v p[]ful r$uc+ ag5t1 9 place ( ! copp]as1 avoid+ 9 ?is way ! l>ge am\nt ( precipitat$ iron oxide :i* always =ms 9 ! copp]as vat1 & leads to ! loss ( dye1 & mudd9ess & dulness ( color1 necessitat+ a special cle>+ ba? ( dilute m9]al acid4 ,at pres5t ! mo/ satisfactory me?od is to use ! *emical kn[n z sodium hydrosulphite1 z a r$uc+ ag5t1 9 a ba? made /rongly alkal9e ) cau/ic soda4 ,hydrosulphite is n exp5sive2 x acts v rapidly1 leav+ no s$im5t2 x causes no loss or wa/e ( ! indigo2 & x does its "w p]fectly4 ,h5ce1 ) its introduction1 ! dye+ ( indigo has become extremely simple4 ,to /ill fur!r %ort5 & simplify ! process1 ! l>ge manufactur]s n only furni% indigo already gr\nd up to a f9e pa/e ) wat]1 b also supply x already r$uc$ by hydrosulphite or "s o!r r$uc+ ag5t1 s t x is almo/ ready to dye ) z x is1 & w dissolve almo/ in/antane\sly 9 an alkal9e ba? ) ! addition ( j a little m r$uc+ ag5t4 ,su* products are ! ,indigo ,vat ,,iii 7,metz71 & ! ,indigo ,solution #bj 7,badis*e74 ,by us+ ei!r ( ^!1 ! prep>ation ( a vat l>ge en\gh to dye #c or #c p\nds ( cotton is ! task ( b a few mom5ts4 ,^! special prep>ations1 h[ev]1 are m exp5sive ?an ! regul> #bj pa/es1 & ! hydrosulphite vat is s easy to prep>e t ! sav+ ( "t is h>dly wor? ! extra co/4 ,,dye+ ,,directions ,= dye+ by ! ,vat me?od ! dye-pot is two-?irds fill$ ) w>m wat]1 at ab\t #abj ,f4 7:5 ! f+] c h>dly be> ! heat71 & "o or two tablespoonfuls ( cau/ic soda are add$--en\gh to make ! ba? decid$ly alkal9e4 ,! dye/uff1 pref]ably fir/ mix$ up ) "s hot wat]1 to ?9 ! pa/e1 is /irr$ into ! liquid1 & !n to ?is is add$ sodium hydrosulphite1 9 p[d]1 or pref]ably dissolv$ 9 wat]1 until ! color ( ! ba? *anges f blue1 fir/ to gre51 & !n to gre5i% yell[1 ) a blui%-gre5 copp]y scum4 ,if ! ba? is bright yell[1 too mu* hydrosulphite has be5 us$1 & "s m indigo %\ld be add$2 or1 if ?is is n desirable = fe> ( gett+ too d>k %ades1 ! ba? %\ld be expos$ to ! air & /irr$ frequ5tly until ! color is "r4 ,if ! ba?1 on scrap+ aside ! scum1 looks blue1 or ev5 m>k$ly gre51 x ne$s a little m hydrosulphite4 ,if1 aft] r$uction1 ! ba? looks yell[ b turbid1 x probably ne$s m alkali4 ,into ?is ba? ! mat]ial is plac$1 & /irr$ ar\nd until ?or\ghly saturat$--! temp]ature be+ kept ab\t #abj ,f4 = heavy goods1 to assi/ p5etration4 ,light goods c be dy$ equally well 9 a lukew>m1 or ev5 a cold ba?4 ,! goods are !n tak5 out1 wrung lightly by h&1 & are c>efully pass$ two or ?ree times ?r\gh ! wr+]1 to get ! color ev5ly di/ribut$4 ,!y are !n %ak5 out & hung up 9 ! air to oxidize4 ,9 fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes1 aft] ! color has *ang$1 !y %\ld be r9s$ well 9 two or ?ree wat]s1 to get rid ( all traces ( ! cau/ic alkali1 & !n boil$ = sev]al m9utes 9 a soap ba?1 to wa% (f ! loose dye/uff & prev5t rubb+4 ,?is aft]-treatm5t ) boil+ soapsuds is ( ev5 m importance 9 ! case ( ! o!r ,vat dyes ?an x is ) indigo1 = ) mo/ ( !m ! oxidation is n complet$ 9 ! air--& s ! color is develop$ z well z bright5$ by ! soap ba?4 ,x is v important1 :5 work+ ) ^! ,vat colors1 to rememb] t hot solutions ( cau/ic alkali are v h>d on ! h&s & t1 !re=e1 rubb] gloves are extremely useful1 if n ess5tial4 ,/a9s left on h&s1 clo!s1 & ut5sils1 al?\gh difficult to remove by wa%+1 are almo/ in/antly dissolv$ by w>m solutions ( hydrosulphite ) a little soda or o!r alkali 9 !m4 ,results4--,colors produc$ by syn!tic indigo are cle> & clean1 b n brilliant4 ,if ! slightly purpli% %ades ( natural indigo are desir$1 !y c be obta9$ ) special br&s--,indigo ,r1 or ,indigo ,,rr1 ,metz--or by mix+ small quantities ( ,algol ,r$ ,b1 ,elb]feld1 or ,?io ,indigo ,r$ ,b1 ,kalle1 ) ! indigo be=e r$uc+ x4 ,x is g5]ally suppos$ t ! *>act]i/ic %ade1 ! s-call$ 8bloom0 ( natural indigo1 0 due to ! pres5ce ( small quantities ( a r$di% dye/uff1 kn[n z indigo r$4 ,z a matt] ( fact1 h[ev]1 ! me?od ( dye+ has m to d ) ?is ?an ! composition ( ! dye/uff4 ,= in/ance1 if ! indigo is v ?or\ghly r$uc$ 9 ! vat be=e ! goods are imm]s$1 z is g5]ally ! case 9 ! mod]n hydrosulphite me?od1 & ! ba? is made up ) fre% r$uc+ ag5t = ea* dye+1 ! resultant color w be a v cle>1 r greyi%1 %ade ( blue )\t any purple lu/re4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! dye/uff is n v p]fectly r$uc$1 z 0 g5]ally ! case ) ! old f]m5tation vats1 & ! ba?1 f /&+ 9 ! air1 has a heavy scum on ! top1 & is gre5i% r ?an cle> yell[ 9 color bel[ ! surface1 !n ! dy$ fabrics w be apt to %[ ! m>k$ purpli% tone :i* is s *>act]i/ic ( ! old] indigo dye+s4 ,uses4--,:ile ( less importance ?an x us$ to be be=e ! discov]ies ( ! la/ few ye>s1 ! use ( indigo = dye+ cotton1 especially = ! craftsman1 is n to be neglect$4 ,x furni%es1 easily & rapidly1 9 "o ba?1 )\t ei!r boil+1 mordant+1 or aft]-treatm5t1 exce$+ly pleasant1 s(t %ades :i* are fa/ to bo? light & wa%+4 ,= resi/ dye+1 su* z ,ti$ & ,dy$ "w1 ,resi/ ,/5cil "w1 & ,batik1 x w be f\nd p>ticul>ly useful1 because ! fabric c be dy$ 9 ! cold4 ,indigo possesses1 h[ev]1 c]ta9 disadvantages1 especially = ! pr(essional dy]1 :i* x %>es ) ! o!r ,vat dyes describ$ bel[1 & :i* prev5t x1 & ! o!r ,vat dyes1 f be+ us$ z widely z ! ,salt colors or ev5 ! ,sulphur colors4 ,9 ! fir/ place ^! dyes are all ( !m exp5sive4 ,!y co/ m ?an mo/ o!rs1 p\nd = p\nd ( ! dry color1 & full %ades ne$ mu* l>g] proportions ( !m 9 ! ba?4 ,!n x is difficult to dye to %ade ) !m1 because ! color1 z a rule1 alt]s s mu* :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,9 practice1 :5 dye+ l>ge quantities ( goods to ! same %ade1 x is cu/om>y to divide ! mat]ials into sev]al lots ( ! same weight2 & to make a /rong 8/ock solution0 ( ! dye/uff1 prop]ly r$uc$ ) alkali & hydrosulphite4 ,by mak+ up a fre% vat = ea* lot ( goods1 us+ exactly ! same volume ( wat] & ( 8/ock solution10 & work+ ea* lot = ! same l5g? ( "t & at ! same temp]ature1 ev5 results c be produc$ ) mu* less tr\ble ?an by dye+ to %ade by ! eye4 ,ano!r drawback is t indigo-dy$ goods1 especially ( ! heavy full %ades1 are apt to 8rub40 ,?is c be/ be avoid$ by always us+ a well-r$uc$ ba?2 by wa%+ ) boil+ soap aft] ea* dip2 & by build+ up ! deep %ades by successive dipp+s 9 mod]ately weak vats1 r ?an by obta9+ ! %ade1 once = all1 by us+ a v /rong1 conc5trat$ dye-liquor4 ,= _m hundr$s1 & ev5 ?\s&s1 ( ye>s1 indigo has be5 univ]sally recogniz$ z ! mo/ p]man5t & mo/ valuable blue dye/uff = cotton & inde$ = wool5 goods4 ,= ! latt] purpose x is n[ b little us$1 ?anks to ! introduction ( ! exce$+ly fa/ dye/uffs ( ! ,acid & ,mordant classes4 ,b = cotton x is /ill consid]ably us$1 = fa/ %ades4 ,,! ,,mod]n ,,vat ,,colors ,up to a v rec5t date indigo 0 ! only dye/uff1 ( any importance at any rate1 t 0 us$ 9 ! mann] j describ$1 & produc$ colors fa/ to light & to wa%+4 ,dur+ ! pa/ ?ree or f\r ye>s1 h[ev]1 ! att5tion ( ! dye+ *emi/s has be5 direct$ to ?is "q1 & at lea/ five ( ! great dye h\ses h introduc$ dye/uffs cov]+ a great range ( colors :i*1 :5 dy$ 9 ! same way z indigo1 n only rival b di/9ctly surpass t color 9 p]man5ce z well z beauty4 ,names4--,^! dye/uffs1 :ile kn[n g5]ally z ! ,vat colors1 h be5 giv5 special class names by _! manufactur]s1 z foll[s3 ,algol 7,elb]feld72 ,ciba 7,klip/e972 ,hel9done 7,metz72 ,indan?r5e 7,badis*e71 & ,?io ,indigo 7,kalle74 ,! ,cassella ,company are j introduc+ ! fir/ memb]s ( _! s]ies1 to be kn[n z ,hydrons4 ,li/ ( ,select$ ,dye/uffs3-- ,badis*e-- ,indan?r5e ,cl>et1 ,b1 ,extra ,indan?r5e ,yell[1 ,g ,indan?r5e ,blue1 ,g ,c ,d 99,indigo pure ,cassella-- 99,hydrone ,blue1 ,r 99,hydrone ,blue1 ,g ,elb]feld-- ,algol ,r$1 #e ,g ,algol ,yell[1 #c ,g ,algol ,blue1 #c ,g ,kalle-- 99,?io ,indigo ,r$1 ,b ,g 99,?io ,indigo ,sc>let1 ,s ,?io ,indigo ,br[n1 ,g 99,indigo1 ,k ,g ,klip/e9-- ,ciba ,r$1 ,g ,cibanone ,yell[1 ,r ,ciba ,gre51 ,g ,ciba ,blue1 #b ,b ,ciba ,violet1 ,r ,metz-- ,hel9done ,r$1 #c ,b ,hel9done ,fa/ ,sc>let1 ,r 99,hel9done ,yell[1 #c ,g ,n 99,indigo ,m ,l ,b1 #f ,b ,n4,b4--,! dye/uffs m>k$ 99 w dye 9 a lukew>m or ev5 cold ba?4 ,prop]ties & ,uses4--,^! ,vat dyes are n all ( equal value1 b z a class !y are1 di/9ctly1 ! fa/e/ ( any z yet introduc$2 & ! be/ ( !m may prop]ly be consid]$ z ! mo/ p]man5t color+ ag5ts ( any sort or k9d t h ev] yet appe>$ on ! e>?4 ,!y n only f> surpass 9 ?is respect ! be/ ( ! vegetable dye/uffs1 ) ! possible exception ( ! v be/ qualities ( ,turkey r$1 b 9 resi/ance to *emicals & outside ag5cies ( v>i\s sorts1 are mu* bett] ?an ! be/ m9]al colors4 ,?is is s mu* ! case t ! mod]n specifications = dy$ clo? = ,gov]nm5t purposes1 z = in/ance ! khaki uni=ms = soldi]s 9 active s]vice1 :i* up to a ye> or two ago 7 dy$ ) iron buff modifi$ ) oxide ( *romium1 h be5 rais$1 9 "o c\ntry aft] ano!r1 until !y exclude e class ( dye/uffs except ^! new ,vat colors4 ,dur+ ! la/ ye> or two ^! dyes h be5 introduc$1 ?\gh ) "s difficulty1 into comm]ce1 & x is possible to obta9 %irt+s & o!r pr9t$ goods1 dy$ 9 p]man5t colors1 s p]man5t inde$ t ! clo? w we> completely out be=e ! color *anges 9 ! slighte/4 ,! extra co/ ( ! dye/uffs1 & ! comp>ative difficulty ( dye+ to %ade1 furni% an excuse = increas+ ! price ( ! goods4 ,& ! p]haps n unnatural dis9cl9ation ( ! %opkeep]s to pu% ! sale ( mat]ials :i*1 9 _! op9ion1 are q unnecess>ily fa/1 has comb9$ ) ! co/ to delay ! g5]al adoption ( ^! rem>kably valuable color+ ag5ts4 ,= craftsm51 h[ev]1 :]e ! price ( ! dye/uffs con/itutes su* a small p]c5tage ( ! co/ ( ! f9i%$ article1 & :]e ! absolute p]man5ce ( ! color is ( ! utmo/ importance1 ^! colors are mo/ useful4 ,!y are n to be us$1 except+ "u special circum/ances1 = animal fibres--wool1 silk1 lea!r1 fea!rs1 etc4--= fe> ( injur+ ! mat]ials by ! action ( ! cau/ic alkali4 ,b on cotton & l951 bo? 9 direct or resi/ dye+1 & = /5cil "w1 !re are no colors to comp>e ) !m 9 fa/ness1 n except+ ev5 ! v be/ ( ! ,sulphur colors4 ,,dye+ ,,directions ,^! dyes are all appli$1 j l indigo1 9 an alkal9e hydrosulphite vat4 ,! colors are appli$ 9 pa/e =m1 usually #bj /rong1 or at any rate equival5t 9 /r5g? to a #bj pa/e ( pure indigo4 ,c>e mu/ be tak5 to ?or\ghly mix & /ir up ?is pa/e ) a glass rod1 9 ! orig9al package1 ea* "t x is us$1 s z to keep its composition uni=m4 ,! prop] am\nt1 to be det]m9$ only by exp]i5ce1 is fir/ ?9n$ ) a little hot wat]1 & !n /irr$ into ! dye-pot1 two-?irds full ( hot wat]1 ab\t #adj ,f4 7,?is is well bel[ a boil1 & yet hot en\gh to slightly scald ! tips ( ! f+]s47 ,to ?is is add$ cau/ic soda1 9 ! proportion ( two to ?ree spoonfuls to ea* "o ( ! color1 ! am\nt ( soda be+ proportionately great] = light %ades ?an :]e l>ge am\nts ( color are us$4 ,aft] ?is has be5 dissolv$ ! dye/uff is r$uc$ by add+ sl[ly1 ) con/ant /irr+1 spoonful aft] spoonful ( ! p[d]$ sodium hydrosulphite until ! ba? cle>s & g5]ally ! color *anges4 ,9 mo/ cases1 z ) indigo1 ! completion ( ! r$uc+ *ange c be told by a m>k$ alt]ation 9 ! %ade ( ! ba?4 ,?us1 9 g5]al1 ! blue dyes1 l indigo1 turn yell[ or orange :5 ! prop] am\nt ( hydrosulphite is add$4 ,= ! o!r colors !re is no g5]al rule4 ,?us ,indan?r5e ,yell[ 7,badis*e71 :5 r$uc$1 is blue--:ile ! ,hel9done ,yell[ 7,metz7 is blood r$4 ,hel9done ,sc>lets 7,metz71 :5 r$uc$1 appe> gre51 :ile ! ,?io ,indigo ,r$ & ,sc>let h ab\t ! same color1 :5 r$uc$1 t !y h :5 oxidiz$4 ,! be/ way to tell :e!r ! ba? is 9 prop] condition is to dip a piece ( :ite blott+ pap] into x1 & notice1 on tak+ x out1 :e!r ! color is 9 specks or is dissolv$4 ,on /&+ 9 ! air = a few m9utes ! color %\ld become oxidiz$1 & firmly fix$ to ! pap]4 ,z a rule ^! ,vat colors %\ld be r$uc$ w>m1 because1 9 _m cases at lea/1 ! r$uc$ color does n dissolve 9 a ba? ( cold alkali4 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 aft] hav+ be5 r$uc$ at a temp]ature ( ab\t #adj ,f1 ! ba? may be all[$ to cool consid]ably1 be=e x loses its dye+ value4 ,?is enables ^! colors to be us$ = ,batik1 or o!r processes :]e ! temp]ature mu/ be kept bel[ #hj or #ij ,f4 ,! dye/uffs :i* c be ?us us$ w be f\nd m>k$ ) an a/]isk 9 ! li/ ( select$ dye/uffs above4 ,! well-wett$ mat]ials are plac$ 9 ! r$uc$ dye-ba?1 & /irr$ & work$ = five or t5 m9utes1 or long]1 accord+ to ! dep? ( %ade exp]i5c$4 ,= full %ades1 h[ev]1 z 9 ! case ( indigo1 x is mu* bett] to build up ! color by successive dipp+s ?an to try to put x all on 9 "o ba?4 ,= heavy goods ! addition ( a little ,turkey r$ oil1 ab\t half a tablespoonful to ! gallon1 is an advantage1 ?\gh n absolutely necess>y4 ,:5 ?or\ghly impregnat$ ) ! dye-liquor1 ! goods are tak5 out1 wrung c>efully1 two or ?ree times1 to remove ! wa/e liquor z ev5ly z possible1 & !n %ak5 out & expos$ to ! air = fifte5 or tw5ty m9utes4 ,!y are !n boil$ 9 a soap ba? = ab\t tw5ty m9utes1 & !n well r9s$1 & dri$4 ,?is hot soap ba?1 z be=e m5tion$1 is ( great importance 9 mo/ ( ^! colors1 n only = gett+ rid ( loosely fix$ dye/uff1 b = oxidiz+ & fix+ ! color itself4 ,= d>k %ades x is well1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,sulphur colors1 to add salt--?ree or f\r tablespoonfuls p] gallon ( dye-liquor--to ! ba?1 tak+ c>e to h x well dissolv$ be=e ! goods are ent]$4 ,?is is always done :5 dye+ ) ,hel9done ,yell[ #c;,,gn1 ,metz4 ,! %ades ( ^! new ,vat colors are extremely bright & cle>1 &1 by comb9+ ^! prop]ly1 any desir$ effects may be produc$4 ,! spl5did s]ies ( r$s & sc>lets = ! fir/ "t all[ ! *>act]i/ic %ades ( ,turkey r$ to be obta9$1 9 "o ba?1 & ( at lea/ equal1 if n ( sup]ior fa/ness to ! orig9al4 ,"o peculi>ity ( ^! colors is _! extreme fa/ness1 n only to light & wa%+1 acids & alkalies1 b also to v>i\s oxidiz+ ag5ts1 su* z *loride ( lime or blea*+ p[d]4 ,accord+ly goods prop]ly dy$ & f9i%$ ) ^! dye/uffs c be entru/$ ) safety1 s f> z ! color goes1 to ag5cies :i* w\ld spe$ily ru9 fabrics dy$ 9 any o!r mann]4 ,,*apt] ,,vii ,,! ,,basic ,,colors ,9 an e>li] *apt] x 0 m5tion$ t ! mod]n dye/uffs orig9at$ ) ! discov]y by ,p]k91 9 #ahef1 ( ! violet color+ matt] kn[n z ,mauve9e4 ,?is dye 0 made by ! oxidation ( ! !n r>e *emical1 anil9e4 ,foll[+ ?is discov]y1 o!r *emi/s1 especially 9 ,france & ,g]many1 soon obta9$ f ! same *emical or f sub/ances v closely resembl+ x1 a consid]able quantity ( p[]ful & brilliant dye/uffs ( ! same g5]al "*4 ,! orig9al ,mauve9e 0 be=e long sup]s$$1 fir/ by ,h(mann's ,violet1 & !n by a v important s]ies ( violet & purple dyes kn[n z ,me?yl ,violet1 ) %ades rang+ f #f or #g;,b = ! deep1 full purples1 to ! #f or #g,r = ! v r$ %ades4 ,^! violet colors h nev] be5 surpass$1 or ev5 equall$ by any o!r dyes = brilliancy & ri*ness1 al?\gh1 9 common ) almo/ all ! o!r dyes ( ?is class1 !y are n fa/ to sunlight4 ,ano!r extremely p[]ful & brilliant color ( ?is class1 us$ consid]ably to ?is day al?\gh discov]$ ne>ly fifty ye>s ago1 is ! dye (t5 call$1 f its orig91 ,anil9e ,r$4 ,x 01 h[ev]1 nam$ by ! ,g]man manufactur]s1 ,fu*s9e1 f its ri*1 full1 crimson %ades1 resembl+ ! deep t9ts ( ! fl[]1 fu*sia1 :ile ! ,fr5*1 :o discov]$ & manufactur$ x soon aft] ! close ( ,l\is ,napoleon's ,italian campaign1 call$ x ,mag5ta1 aft] ! fam\s victory ( t "n4 ,ab\t ?is "t "s ,g]man *emi/s discov]$ & introduc$ a full1 ri*1 br[n dye1 /ill l>gely us$ = dye+ lea!r 7kid gloves & ! l71 &1 naturally en\gh1 gave x ! "n ( ,bism>ck ,br[n4 ,& at approximately ! same date 0 discov]$ ! v valuable blue dye/uff1 p]haps ! be/ ( ! :ole class1 ) q a range ( full1 deep %ades1 & ) consid]able fa/ness to light1 call$ ,me?yl5e ,blue4 ,g5]al ,prop]ties4--,! e>ly colors ( ?is gr\p are ! dye/uffs prop]ly kn[n z ! 8,anil9e ,colors0 because ( _! orig92 al?\gh ?is "n has be5 appli$1 loosely1 to all ( ! ?\s&s ( artificial dye/uffs )\t reg>d to _! s\rce ( composition4 ,to ! *emi/1 _! *emical /ructure & _! behavior t[>d reag5ts1 su* z acids & alkalies1 naturally sugge/$ ! "n 8,basic ,colors40 ,?is means t !y are sub/ances ) /rong aff9ity = all sorts ( acids1 ) :i* !y =m m or less /able salts1 :ile !y c be lib]at$ f ^! salts by ! action ( /rong] bases1 su* z ammonia1 or ! fix$ alkalies1 soda & pota%4 ,application4--,^! facts 7 discov]$ by ,p]k9 :ile try+ to introduce 8 ,mauve9e into ! dye+ indu/ry1 & he discov]$ ! me?ods1 us$ to ?is day1 = apply+ ^! dyes to ! diff]5t textile mat]ials4 ,he f\nd t ! dyes ( ?is class h a /rong aff9ity = ! diff]5t animal fibres1 su* z wool1 silk1 lea!r1 etc41 all ( :i* seem to possess "s acid prop]ties ( _! own2 b pure vegetable mat]ials1 l cotton1 l951 & pap]1 f :i* all impurities su* z vegetable acids1 gums1 etc41 h be5 remov$1 h no aff9ity at all = ev5 ! mo/ p[]ful ( ! ,basic dyes4 ,a cotton h&k]*ief1 boil$ = h\rs 9 a /rong solution ( ,me?yl ,violet1 c be wa%$ 9 a few m9utes cle> ( e p>ticle ( color1 :ile a piece ( silk or wool1 soak$ = an in/ant 9 ! same dye-ba?1 w be p]man5tly /a9$1 deep & full4 ,cotton1 ,l951 etc4--,9 ord] to fa/5 ^! dyes to vegetable fibre x is necess>y to give ! latt] a di/9ctly acid "*1 & ?is 0 done by ,p]k9 9 a mann] /ill us$4 ,he /eep$ ! mat]ial = sev]al h\rs 9 a hot ba? ( ! acid vegetable comp\nd1 tannic acid or tann91 f\nd s l>gely 9 hemlock & *e/nut b>k1 sumac leaves1 nut-galls1 & ! l2 & !n loosely fix$ ! tann91 ?us absorb$1 by a weak ba? ( t>t> emetic4 ,cotton or l95 fabrics1 ?us 8mordant$10 w comb9e ) ! ,basic dyes z readily & z firmly z any animal fibre1 & ! result+ colors1 :ile n1 z a rule1 fa/ to light1 are extremely fa/ to wa%+4 ,s9ce ! introduction ( ! direct cotton dyes1 bo? ,salt colors & ,sulphur colors1 ?is me?od ( dye+1 = ske9s or piece goods1 has be5 l>gely discont9u$2 b1 by us+ a modification ( ?is process1 enorm\s quantities ( ,basic colors are /ill employ$1 on cotton & l951 9 ! manufacture ( calicoes1 org&ies1 & o!r pr9t$ fabrics4 ,curi\sly en\gh ! ,salt & ! ,sulphur colors1 9 almo/ e in/ance1 possess suffici5t acid prop]ties ( _! own to act z v fair mordants = ! ,basic colors4 ,accord+ly1 x is n uncommon = dy]s to 8top10 ) ,basic colors1 cotton or l95 goods dy$ directly4 ,9 ! case ( ! ,salt colors1 ?is increases _! fa/ness to wa%+1 & ) ,sulphur colors x makes ! %ades m brilliant4 ,mo/ vegetable mat]ials t are us$ 9 a m or less natural condition1 l /raw1 raffia1 grass1 wood-%av+s1 jute1 & ! l1 conta9 en\gh ( ?is natural tannic acid to act z a mordant = ! ,basic colors1 :i* may 9 ?is direction be us$ z direct dyes4 ,wool1 ,silk1 etc4--,= animal fibres1 su* z wool1 silk1 furs1 fea!rs1 etc41 ! ,basic colors h be5 almo/ entirely sup]s$$1 9 comm]ce1 by ! class ( dye/uffs kn[n z ! ,acid colors4 ,^! occur 9 mu* great] abundance & v>iety1 & c be appli$ ) less dang] ( spoil+ ! goods by unev5 results4 ,= lea!r1 on ! o!r h&1 ! ,basic colors are /ill l>gely us$1 especially = d>k %ades1 or :5 fa/ness to light is n p>ticul>ly desir$4 ,on b>k-tann$ lea!r1 :i* is full ( tannic acid1 !y take hold p>ticul>ly well1 & are (t5 m conv5i5t to "w ) ?an ! ,acid colors1 al?\gh !y d n1 z a rule1 give su* ev5 results4 ,uses4--,on a small scale x is h>dly wor? :ile = ! amateur to try to use ^! ,basic colors = dye+ ei!r cotton or l954 ,! difficulty ( correctly & ev5ly mordant+ ! goods is q z great z t ( apply+ ! dyes aft]w>d4 ,& ! ,sulphur colors & ,vat colors w be f\nd q z fa/ to wa%+ z ! be/ mordant$ ,basic colors1 ) ! additional advantage ( be+ v mu* fa/] to light1 z well z easi] ( application4 ,by us+ "s ( ! me?ods ( ! calico pr9t]1 x is possible to employ ^! dyes1 ) "s success1 = /5cill+4 ,b ev5 = ?is purpose1 except+1 p]haps1 on silk1 ! mod]n ,vat colors are m conv5i5t1 z well z be+ inf9itely m p]man5t to light4 ,disadvantages4--,! *ief drawback to ! use ( ^! dyes is t !y are n fa/ to light4 ,sev]al ( !m--,me?yl5e ,blue1 = in/ance1 & ,me?yl5e ,heliotrope ,o 7,metz7--are fairly fa/1 b ! re/1 especially 9 light %ades1 & on transp>5t or transluc5t fabrics1 are liable1 :5 expos$ to sunlight = any l5g? ( "t1 to alt] _! %ade to a v m>k$ degree4 ,= d>k %ades ?is is n s noticeable1 =1 :5 goods are /rongly color$1 ! effect ( ! sunlight on at lea/ ! deep] portions ( ! fibre is l>gely c\nt]act$ by ! color ( ! goods !mselves4 ,s1 too1 an opaque mat]ial1 l lea!r1 w hold ! same %ade ( color di/9ctly long] ?an silk or1 especially1 artificial silk1 :]e ! sunlight /rikes ?r\gh & ?r\gh ! fibre1 )\t any protection at all4 ,b1 g5]ally speak+1 ^! dyes w n /& /rong sunlight4 ,nor are ! %ades ( ^! ,basic dyes1 z a rule1 z attractive z ^? ( o!r classes4 ,! /rong & brilliant1 n to say co>se1 %ades ( ,me?yl ,violet1 ,mala*ite ,gre51 ,anil9e ,r$1 & ! re/1 :i* creat$ su* a s5sation :5 !y fir/ appe>$ 9 ! e>ly sixties1 7 ! p>ticul> colors :i* provok$ ,john ,rusk9 to vehem5t1 if n unp>liam5t>y rem>ks4 ,:5 unmix$ !y c]ta9ly d h>r[ ! feel+s ( ^? arti/ically incl9$1 z mu* n[ z !n4 ,!y are r>ely se5 n[1 = ! ta/e ( ! public has be5 suffici5tly educat$ to make a dem& = s(t] %ades4 ,z be=e expla9$1 no?+ is easi] ?an to s(t5 ^! fi]ce1 h>% colors to mo/ beautiful & h>moni\s t9ts by mix+ into !m a m]e trace ( _! complem5t>ies4 ,advantages4--,9 spite ( all t c be said aga9/ !m1 ^! *eap1 brilliant1 & v p[]ful dyes are n to be despis$1 & %\ld /ill be f\nd 9 ! outfit ( a well-equipp$ dy]4 ,= /raw1 raffia1 *ips1 will[1 & o!r mat]ials us$ s l>gely = hats & = basket-"w1 ^! dyes are di/9ctly valuable1 &1 if supplem5t$ by fa/ ,acid colors = light %ades1 or = p>ticul>ly fa/ effects1 w be f\nd satisfactory en\gh4 ,s1 too1 = lea!r !y w be f\nd extremely useful1 except+ :]e delicate %ades1 fa/ to light1 are requir$4 ,"s k9ds ( artificial silk1 also1 especially ^? made f nitro-cellulose & h5ce possess$ ( acid prop]ties1 dye f> bett] ) ^! ?an ) any o!r dyes1 al?\gh1 z expla9$ above1 ! colors w be f> f p]man5t4 ,= ! craftsman1 ! fa/ness to wa%+ ( ^! dyes is a matt] ( v little importance1 because !y are us$ by him s exclusively ^u mat]ials su* z basketry1 lea!r1 & artificial silk1 :i* are nev] expos$ to r\gh h&l+ 9 boil+ soap & wat]4 ,z reg>ds _! fa/ness to light1 ! great] numb] ( ^! mu/ be class$ z belong+ to ! f\r? class1 i4e41 di/9ctly fugitive 9 "*4 ,on ! o!r h&1 "s special ones c be select$ f ! gr\p :i* are n only di/9ctly fa/] ?an ! re/1 b are fa/ en\gh to be well up 9 ! ?ird class1 or c at a /ret*1 be plac$ 9 ! second class1 i4e41 c be consid]$ z satisfactory1 at any rate1 aga9/ any b v sev]e exposure4 ,! ,fa/e/ ,basic ,colors4--,among ^! may be plac$ ! well-kn[n dye/uff1 ,me?yl5e ,blue1 p]haps ! mo/ satisfactory ( ! :ole class4 ,a v good color also is ,me?yl5e ,heliotrope ,o 7,metz71 :i*1 :ile less brilliant1 is f> fa/] ?an ! _m br&s ( ,me?yl ,violet1 ,h(mann's ,violet1 & ! re/1 :i* to mo/ dy]s are ! *>act]i/ic basic violets4 ,= blacks1 _m composite dyes are on ! m>ket1 made by ! diff]5t color h\ses1 kn[n z ,lea!r ,blacks4 ,^! are fa/ en\gh1 = deep %ades1 b n to be tru/$ :5 ?9n$ d[n to =m greys4 ,! fa/e/ individual basic black is ,diaz9e ,black1 7,kalle71 & ?is %\ld be us$ = ! light] %ades4 ,! ,r$ & ,yell[ colors are di/9ctly less satisfactory4 ,none ( !m c really be consid]$ bett] mu* ?an ?ird class4 ,( ! ,r$s ! be/ is probably ! color kn[n z ,safran9e1 diff]5t br&s ( :i*1 giv+ z a rule ! yell[ %ades1 are manufactur$ by ! v>i\s color h\ses2 "o br& be+ ab\t z fa/ z ano!r4 ,= ! blui% %ades ( r$1 probably ! fa/e/ is ,diaz9e ,r$1 7,kalle74 ,z reg>ds ,yell[1 ! li/ is ev5 m unsatisfactory4 ,!re is a v beautiful gold5 yell[1 kn[n z ,auram9e ,o1 manufactur$ by mo/ ( ! color h\ses1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is h>dly fa/ en\gh to be 9 ! ?ird class4 ,?is dye/uff1 by ! way1 is injur$ by boil+1 & !re=e %\ld nev] be us$ 9 a dye-ba? heat$ to ov] #acj or #adj ,fahr5heit4 ,less pleas+ 9 %ade1 b some:at fa/] to sunlight1 are ! r orange or br[ni% yell[s kn[n z ,new ,phosph9e ,g 7,cassella71 & ,me?yl5e ,yell[ 7,metz74 ,some:at bright] colors1 ?\gh less fa/ to light1 are produc$ by ,?io flav9e ,t4 ,none ( ^!1 h[ev]1 comp>es 9 fa/ness to ! select$ colors ( any o!r class 9 ?is book4 ,! v>i\s br&s ( ! common dye/uff1 ,bism>ck ,br[n1 are l>gely us$ = lea!r1 & :ile probably inf]ior 9 fa/ness to any ( ! colors m5tion$ above1 are n f\nd 9 comm]cial practice too fugitive to be pretty satisfactory4 ,:51 h[ev]1 mat]ials are liable to be expos$ = any l5g? ( "t1 two or ?ree weeks 9 succession1 to direct p[]ful sunlight1 x w g5]ally be advisable to use mix$ br[ns made f fa/ ,acid colors4 ,^u ! :ole1 al?\gh we are /ill frequ5tly call$ ^u to employ !m1 !y mu/1 f ! craftsman's /&po9t1 always be consid]$ z untru/wor?y4 ,!y %\ld1 !re=e1 nev] be us$ :]e dye/uffs ( any o!r class c be made to take _! place4 ,,dye+ ,,directions ,! application ( ,basic colors to lea!r dye+ w be discuss$ lat]4 ,we %all n[ discuss _! application to basketry mat]ials1 su* z /raw1 raffia1 will[1 & ! l1 :]e !y w be f\nd useful4 ,x w at once be notic$ t ^! dye/uffs are f> m p[]ful ?an any ?us f> met ) 9 ^! lessons4 ,inde$1 :ile !re w be ne$$1 = full %ades ( ! ,vat colors1 pa/es f ab\t #ae to #bj ( ! total weight ( ! dry mat]ials1 ( ! ,sulphur colors f #g to #aj1 ( ! ,salt colors f #d to #f1 & ( ! ,acid colors f #a to ab\t #c1 mo/ ( ^! ,basic colors w give v full %ades ) f to #a ( ! total weight ( dry mat]ial4 ,^! ,basic colors d n dissolve readily 9 wat]1 b are easily soluble 9 alcohol1 & also 9 ev5 v dilute acids4 ,acids =m salts ) ! dye/uffs & ^! salts dissolve :5 ! free color+ matt]s d n4 ,accord+ly ! ,basic colors %\ld always be dissolv$ c>efully 9 a sep>ate cup or vessel1 us+ hot wat]1 & add+1 = ea* spoonful ( dye/uff1 two or ?ree spoonfuls ( acetic acid or1 if m conv5i5t1 ( /rong v9eg>4 ,! color1 ?us dissolv$1 %\ld be add$ to w>m wat] 9 ! dye-pot1 pref]ably ?r\gh a f9e /ra9] or piece ( *eeseclo?1 to avoid any undissolv$ p>ticles :i* w\ld cause spots4 ,! well-wett$ goods are imm]s$ 9 ?is dye-ba?1 & turn$1 ei!r 9 ! cold or ) g5tle heat1 until ! desir$ %ade is rea*$1 or ! ba? is exhau/$4 ,! mat]ial is !n tak5 out1 r9s$ once or twice 9 wat]1 cold or w>m1 c>efully dri$1 &1 if necess>y1 /raight5$ & press$ or iron$ out4 ,/raw4--,c>e mu/ be tak5 :5 dye+ ^! mat]ials to h !m q free f grease & dirt1 be=e dye+ !m4 ,if !y d n wet readily & ev5ly1 aft] be+ soak$ 9 w>m wat] = a c\ple ( h\rs1 !y %\ld be c>efully wa%$ 9 w>m soapsuds1 & ?or\ghly r9s$4 ,! soap1 h[ev]1 %\ld be ( good quality &1 especially ) /raw1 ei!r 9 ! =m ( /raw braid or made up into hats1 no soda or o!r free alkali %\ld be all[$ 9 ! ba?1 = fe> ( injur+ ! surface & de/roy+ ! gloss4 ,?is la/ is sometimes improv$ by dipp+ ! /raw1 aft] dye+ & r9s+1 into a weak ba? ( ,ca/ile 7olive oil7 soap1 or ( ,turkey r$ oil 7ab\t "o tablespoonful to ! gallon71 be=e x is dri$4 ,9 dye+ /raw1 ! greate/ pa9s mu/ be tak5 to dye x ev5ly4 ,braid %\ld be ti$ up 9 loose hanks or bundles1 s t ! dye/uff c p5etrate readily into e "p2 & ) a loop ( tape or /r+1 by :i* x c be rais$ or l[]$ 9 ! dye-ba?4 ,x %\ld be kept 9 motion suffici5tly to cause uni=m circulation ( ! liquid4 ,! dye-ba? %\ld n be too /rong1 especially at ! beg9n+1 & %\ld be heat$ sl[ly to ! boil+ po9t1 :]e x %\ld be kept = half an h\r or s1 to insure p5etration4 ,x is be/ to add ! dye/uff 9 small portions1 f "t to "t1 z ! ba? becomes exhau/$1 lift+ ! goods out ( ! ba? ea* "t1 & /irr+ 9 ! new color be=e putt+ ! goods back aga94 ,if ! goods once become unev5 x is v h>d1 if n impossible1 to get !m level aga91 or to /rip !m fully1 )\t spoil+ ! mat]ials4 ,! be/ ?+ to d1 if ?is mis=tune ov]takes !m1 is to dye !m "s d>k color1 :]e m9or irregul>ities w be cov]$ up & pass unnotic$4 ,9 o!r words1 8,dump x 9 ! black10 z ! dy]s say4 ,ladies' /raw hats are dy$ 9 j ! same way z ! loose braid1 ! same c>e be+ tak5 to clean & wet ! goods ?or\ghly1 & to dye ev5ly4 ,x is (t5 ( int]e/ to exp]im5t ) old hats ( good mat]ial1 b fad$1 & to dye !m up "s pleasant new %ade1 & ! ribbons & trimm+s to mat*4 ,sometimes ! rema9s ( ! old color+ w /rip well by wa%+ 9 hot soapsuds1 & sometimes by soak+ 9 w>m wat] conta9+ ab\t "o tablespoonful to ! gallon ( sodium hydrosulphite--! same salt t 0 us$ z a r$uc+ ag5t = ! ,vat colors 9 ! la/ *apt]4 ,if ! color comes out well1 x is !n easy en\gh1 aft] ?or\ghly r9s+1 to dye !m any desir$ %ade4 ,o!rwise !y c be dy$ ,navy ,blue1 ) a good %ade ( ,me?yl5e ,blue & a trace ( r$1 or ,seal ,br[n1 us+ a l>ge am\nt ( r$ & a little yell[ & blue2 or !y c be dy$ black ) a black dye1 su* z "o ( ! s-call$ ,lea!r ,blacks1 usually made by mix+ a deep purple ) a yell[1 or "o ( ! /rong1 p[]ful ,basic gre5s ) r$4 ,9 g5]al1 a well dy$ piece ( braid is suppos$ to %[ smoo?1 ev5 color+1 good gloss1 & good p5etration ( ! dye/uff into ! folds ( ! /raw4 ,!re are1 h[ev]1 decid$ possibilities = ! intellig5t work] to obta9 m int]e/+ effects ) b little tr\ble4 ,x is v easy to use ! pr9ciples1 already expla9$1 ( ra9b[ dye+1 = /raw braid1 & beautiful effects c be obta9$ 9 ?is way1 ?\gh x w\ld ne$ an arti/ic z well z an exp]i5c$ mill9] to fully utilize ! same 9 mak+ hats4 ,b x frequ5tly happ5s1 :5 dye+ co>se braid )\t boil+1 t ! dye p5etrates unev5ly1 f ! edge t[>ds ! c5tre4 ,v pretty %ad$ effects c be produc$ 9 ?is way1 ! g5]al color be+ uni=m1 & yet ! /raw1 :5 look$ at closely1 %[+ t9ts in/ead ( "o flat1 uni=m %ade4 ,by dye+ ! /raw a solid color fir/1 & !n %ad+ x 9 ?is mann] ) a diff]5t color1 v int]e/+ effects c be produc$4 ,x may be wor? :ile to m5tion "h t1 :5 b\ght at :olesale places1 x is a/oni%+ h[ *eap ! raw mat]ials are4 ,bodies ( /raw1 *ip1 etc41 fram+ wire1 :ite sat9 ribbon1 artificial fl[]s1 w+ fea!rs1 etc41 f :i* n only pretty b ev5 h&some & elegant head cov]+s c be creat$1 & co/ next to no?+ at :olesale4 ,! me*anical "p ( dye+ all ^! ?+s c be le>n$ 9 a v %ort "t2 aft] t ! possibilities = a skill$ work]1 :o has a good eye = color & c dye to ! desir$ %ades h]self )\t hav+ to hunt !m f> & ne>1 are v l>ge4 ,raffia4--,?is is a mat]ial s widely us$ 9 ! public s*ools1 z well z by craftsm51 = weav+ baskets1 t x is well wor? :ile to pay m att5tion to ! dye+ ( x4 ,x is q *eap1 & v bulky1 & takes ^! colors extremely well4 ,s t x is "o ( ! mo/ satisfactory ( all raw mat]ials to exp]im5t )1 especially if !re is a s*ool or work%op at h&1 :]e ! dy$ goods c be utiliz$4 ,! raffia %\ld be %ak5 out ?or\ghly1 & soak$ 9 s(t wat] ov] night1 or at lea/ = sev]al h\rs1 to ?or\ghly wet & s(t5 x4 ,if ev5 %ades are desir$ x c !n be dy$1 j l /raw braid1 9 a w>m dye-ba? conta9+ ! dye/uff1 previ\sly dissolv$ 9 dilut$ acetic acid or v9eg>4 ,x is mu* m int]e/+1 h[ev]1 to dye x ra9b[ %ades f ! />t4 ,if r$1 blue1 & yell[ dye/uffs are dissolv$ sep>ately1 9 diff]5t cups or pit*]s1 ^! solutions c be us$ to repl5i% ! l>ge dye-pots ( ! same colors4 ,to keep ! colors reasonably cle>1 & prev5t !m f spe$ily deg5]at+ into 8mud10 x is well to keep on h& "o or two r9s+-pots1 full ( w>m wat]1 or to h a s9k ne> at h&1 :]e ea* hank or bundle ( raffia %\ld be r9s$ aft] be+ tak5 out ( "o dye-pot & be=e go+ into ! next4 ,! raffia1 :5 ?or\ghly wett$ out1 %\ld1 = conv5i5ce' sake1 be made up into sep>ate loosely-ti$ bundles1 ) a loop on ea* by :i* to h&le x 9 ! dye-ba? )\t /a9+ ! h&s4 ,x is well1 too1 to h "s oil-clo? ar\nd1 = ^! bundles drip a good deal1 & ! dye-liquor w /a9 any?+ ( an animal or vegetable nature ) :i* x comes 9 contact4 ,aft] a little exp]im5t+ ) dipp+ ^! bundles fir/ into ! fir/ dye-pot & !n--r9s+ ea* "t--into ! o!r two1 x w be easy to get ! g5]al effect ( any p>ticul> %ade1 al?\gh1 :5 exam9$ closely1 ! fibre w %[ ! pres5ce ( all ?ree colors4 ,x is int]e/+ to notice1 "h1 z previ\sly ) ! ,salt colors1 h[ easy x is to modify & s(t5 ! h>% %ades ( ! individual unmix$ dye/uffs4 ,&1 z be=e1 x is v int]e/+ z well z v useful to dye "s bundles ev5 %ades ( "s important comp\nd color1 su* z br[n1 = in/ance1 or olive gre51 or /eel grey1 & to notice h[ ! color is *ang$ on ! fibre by add+ a little m r$1 or yell[1 or blue to ! ba?4 ,! 8eye = color0 obta9$ 9 ?is way is ( ! greate/ possible advantage to a dy]1 :e!r amateur or pr(essional2 & :]e1 z 9 ?is case1 ! mat]ials are *eap1 easy to dye1 & possible to utilize1 e advantage %\ld be tak5 ( ! opportunity4 ,p]man5t ,colors on ,basketry4--,:ile = mo/ purposes ! /raw1 raffia *ips1 will[s1 etc41 dy$ ) ,basic colors w be f\nd satisfactory en\gh1 x is be/ = craftsm5 :o are mak+ a specialty ( v high-grade baskets1 to use "s ( ! fa/ ,acid colors1 describ$ & li/$ 9 ! next *apt]1 = _! r$s & yell[s1 & = all mix$ %ades 9 :i* ^! two colors play an important "p4 ,! ,acid dyes are appli$ 9 a boil+ ba?1 ) ! addition ( a little acetic acid1 &1 :ile n fa/ to wa%+1 & n imp>t+ _! colors z readily z ! ,basic dyes1 c be ?or\ghly dep5d$ ^u1 ev5 9 light & delicate %ades1 aga9/ ! action ( sunlight4 ,salt dyes c also be us$1 9 a boil+ ba? ) ! addition ( "s salt1 b1 except+ 9 "s special cases1 are n sup]ior to ! ,acid dyes1 al?\gh some:at fa/] to wa%+4 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,! ,,acid ,,colors ,! discov]y & introduction into comm]ce ( ,mauve9e & ! o!r ,basic dyes1 focuss$ ! att5tion ( *emi/s1 all ov] ! _w1 ^u ?is new & important application ( _! sci5ce4 ,& x 0 soon notic$ t c]ta9 organic bodies1 ( a decid$ly acid "*1 _h ! p[] ( dye+ wool & silk4 ,^! e>ly dyes 7 s-call$ 8nitro0 comp\nds1 =m$ by ! action ( /rong nitric acid ^u d]ivatives ( coal t>1 & 9 mo/ cases !y gave /rong & brilliant1 b r fugitive1 %ades ( yell[4 ,! mo/ int]e/+ ( ^!1 p]haps1 0 ! comp\nd kn[n z 8picric acid10 :i* at "o "t 0 consid]ably us$ = dye+ silk yell[4 ,n[ x has be5 ab&on$ = t purpose b is manufactur$ on an enorm\s scale = use z an explosive4 ,^! orig9al acid dyes 7 ( little importance4 ,b 9 ! e>ly sev5ties *emi/s began to make use ( a reaction--kn[n z 8diazotiz+0--= mak+ new organic comp\nds by ! c\pl+ ( anil9e or bodies simil> to anil9e1 ) all sorts & k9ds ( o!r comp\nds d]iv$ f coal t>4 ,! numb] ( d]ivatives ( ?is sort prov$ enorm\s1 & _m ( !m _h m or less valuable dye+ prop]ties4 ,& 9 a v %ort "t new dye/uffs _h be5 discov]$1 good1 bad1 & indiff]5t1 numb]+ n hundr$s1 b ?\s&s4 ,a v few ( ^! s-call$ 8,azo0 dyes 7 ( ! ,basic class1 l ,bism>ck ,br[n1 m5tion$ 9 ! la/ *apt]4 ,o!rs1 discov]$ t5 or fifte5 ye>s lat]1 con/itut$ ! class ( ,direct ,cotton colors or ,salt colors4 ,b ! great bulk ( ^! colors belong$ to ! s-call$ 8,acid0 class1 =m+ salts ) bases & alkalies1 & be+ lib]at$ f ! salts by /rong acids4 ,! numb] ( ,acid ,azo colors is v l>ge4 ,9 ! catalogues ( comm]cial coal-t> colors !re are "s two hundr$ & fifty ( ^! dyes :i* h be5 pick$ out ( ! re/ z hav+ suffici5t value to be c>efully describ$1 & to h be5 plac$ on ! m>ket by ! great dye h\ses4 ,mo/ ( ^! are r$ & orange colors1 ) a few yell[s4 ,z a rule !y are brilliant & cle>1 b1 ) a few exceptions1 n p>ticul>ly fa/ to light4 ,:5 ^! 7 introduc$ x 0 soon recogniz$ t !y 7 ( practically no value = cotton & l954 ,!y are z a rule mu* m soluble ?an ! ,basic dyes ( ! =ego+ *apt]1 & h5ce are occasionally us$ z /a9s = wood1 rattan1 & o!r vegetable mat]ials :]e consid]able p5etration is ne$$1 )\t fa/ness to wa%+4 ,b su* use is ( little importance4 ,prop]ties4--,acid dyes are almo/ exclusively employ$ = dye+ wool1 silk1 fea!rs1 & o!r animal fibres1 & = ?is !y are extremely valuable4 ,! introduction ( ! ,acid ,azo colors s simplifi$ & improv$ ! dye+ ( wool & silk1 t e ef=t 0 made to increase ! range ( colors4 ,& :5 x 0 f\nd t ! ,azo colors 7 weak on ! l9e ( blue1 purple1 & gre51 ef=ts 7 made1 :i* aft] sev]al ye>s prov$ successful1 to *ange ! v>i\s p[]ful ,basic dyes1 ! ,me?yl ,violets1 ,fu*s9 or ,anil9e ,r$1 ,anil9e ,blue1 ,mala*ite ,gre51 & ! re/1 into ,acid dyes1 s t !y c\ld all be us$ 9 ! same dye-ba?s4 ,?is has result$ 9 a v wide range ( colors inde$1 = ! ,acid ,azo colors cov] fully all ! %ades ( yell[1 orange1 & especially ( r$1 f sc>lets ( all sorts & k9ds to deep full crimsons4 ,& !n ! rema9+ %ades are cov]$ by ! acidifi$ or sulphonat$ ,basic colors4 ,^! latt]1 by ! way1 ?\gh v brilliant & /rong & ri*1 are no fa/] to light ?an ! orig9al ,basic colors f :i* !y are d]iv$4 ,( late ye>s ! ,acid colors h held _! own1 & /ill monopolize ! comm]cial1 z well z ! special1 dye+ ( wool & silk except+ "u unusual circum/ances1 :5 consid]able fa/ness to wa%+ is requir$4 ,) ^! dyes1 z 9 ! case ( ! ,basic dyes1 ! fa/ness to wa%+ is ( little or no consequ5ce to ! craftsman4 ,nobody expects to scrub h&-dy$ lea!r2 & wooll5 & silk goods1 unless specially prep>$1 are n suppos$ to be turn$ ov] to ! t5d] m]cies ( ! family laundress4 ,h[ev]1 x may be well to emphasize "h ! fact t ^! dyes are z a rule 8/ripp$0 q readily by boil+ 9 a neutral soap ba?4 ,& :5 ! craftsman wi%es to dye wool or silk fa/ to wa%+1 he mu/ ei!r use ! ,salt dyes1 9 a boil+ ba?1 or mu/ dye1 ) special precautions aga9/ t5d]+1 ) ei!r ! ,sulphur or ! ,vat ,dyes4 ,) reg>d to light-fa/ness1 h[ev]1 ! case is diff]5t4 ,a great _m hundr$s1 possibly ev5 ?\s&s1 ( ,acid dyes h be5 discov]$1 & scores ( !m1 cov]+ e %ade1 c be obta9$ 9 ! op5 m>ket4 ,mo/ ( ^! are ( b little p]man5ce1 b a few products1 f ea* ( ! great color h\ses1 c be select$1 ^: fa/ness to light is extremely satisfactory4 ,! dyes 9 ! foll[+ li/ c h>dly be consid]$ z fa/ z ! ,vat dyes1 previ\sly describ$1 b are probably fa/]1 z a class1 ?an any o!r class m5tion$ 9 ?is book4 ,!y w\ld rank at ! v top ( ! second class1 & "s at lea/ w\ld fairly ent] ! fir/ class1 be+ absolutely satisfactory aga9/ ev5 ! /ronge/ sunlight4 ,a s]ies ( ske9s1 dy$ all colors ( ! ra9b[1 includ+ _m delicate light %ades1 ) a r$1 yell[1 & blue dye ( ^? m5tion$ bel[1 )/ood an exposure te/ :i* q ru9$ a simil> set ( ske9s dy$ ) ! v be/ natural dye/uffs4 ,& a l>ge h&-wov5 rug1 made ( wool dy$ light %ades ) ! same dyes1 0 plac$ = two weeks on a ro( 9 ,new ,york1 half ( x be+ cov]$ ) bo>ds & ! re/ expos$ to ! direct action ( ! ,july sunlight1 & at ! end ( ?is "t x 0 impossible to notice any diff]5ce 9 %ade4 ,! colors 9 ! foll[+ li/ are to be us$1 pr9cipally1 = wool4 ,!y w all dye silk1 lea!r1 & fea!rs1 b 9 ! *apt]s deal+ ) ^? mat]ials "s additional dyes may be m5tion$1 :i* are specially suit$ = !m4 ,li/ ( ,select$ ,dyes4-- ,badis*e-- ,palat9e ,sc>let ,a1 #c ,r ,palat9e ,light ,yell[1 ,r ,t>traz9e 7yell[7 ,wool ,fa/ ,blue1 ,b ,l ,cassella-- ,brilliant ,co*9eal1 ,r ,r ,acid ,yell[1 ,a ,t1 conc4 ,tetracyanol1 ,s ,f ,elb]feld--,azo ,crimson1 ,s ,fa/ ,r$1 ,a ,fa/ ,yell[1 #c ,g ,aliz>9e ,blue1 ,s ,a ,p ,ca%m]e ,black1 #c ,b ,n ,kalle-- ,biebri* ,acid ,r$1 #b ,b ,wool ,yell[1 ,t ,a ,n]o cyan9e ,blue1 ,b ,n]o cyan9e ,black1 ,d ,metz-- ,fa/ ,acid ,r$1 ,m ,fa/ ,acid ,orange1 ,g ,fa/ ,acid ,yell[1 #c ,g ,fa/ ,acid ,blue1 ,b ,b ,,dye+ ,,directions ,! ,acid dyes1 l ! ,basic1 are us$ 9 an acid ba?1 b = a diff]5t reason4 ,) ! ,basic dyes acetic acid or "s o!r weak acid is add$1 = ! purpose ( readily dissolv+ ! color4 ,9 ! case ( ! ,acid dyes1 h[ev]1 ! dye/uffs are almo/ always put on ! m>ket 9 ! =m ( ! potassium or ammonium salts ( ! color acid4 ,& ! pres5ce ( "s acid is always necess>y1 to lib]ate ! color acid1 & all[ x to comb9e ) ! basic pr9ciples exi/+ 9 ! animal fibres4 ,= ,wool4--,! goods1 well wa%$ & soak$1 are w>m$ g5tly 9 a ba? conta9+1 besides ! dye/uff dissolv$ 9 pl5ty ( wat]1 a little sulphuric acid & a good deal ( ,glaub]'s salt4 ,bo? acid & salt %\ld be free f iron1 or ! %ade w be dull$4 ,! am\nt ( acid to be us$ may v>y betwe5 consid]able limits )\t affect+ ! results4 ,if too mu* is pres5t1 !re is dang] ( injur+ ! feel & ! lu/re ( ! fibre4 ,if !re is n en\gh acid 9 ! ba?1 ! color w wa% "r out ( ! wool1 z soon z x is r9s$4 ,9 g5]al x is well to />t ) ab\t "o tablespoonful ( dilute 7#cj7 sulphuric acid = ea* gallon ( dye-liquor & ab\t twice t am\nt ( ,glaub]'s salt4 ,x is h>d to tell j :at is ! function ( ! ,glaub]'s salt4 ,x seems1 h[ev]1 to op5 up ! pores ( ! wool 9 "s way1 & to make x dye m ev5ly & deeply4 ,! ba? is g5tly heat$1 ) con/ant /irr+ ( ! goods1 until ! "r %ade is produc$1 or1 if x is desir$ to exhau/ ! ba? & s wa/e no color1 until ne> ! boil+ po9t4 ,! goods :5 tak5 out ( ! dye-ba? mu/ be wa%$ v ?or\ghly1 to remove ! la/ trace ( acid1 :i* o!rwise on dry+ w\ld ru9 ! wool4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ^! ,acid dyes h>dly affect cotton 9 ! lea/1 & s ! goods dy$ 9 ?is way mu/ be free f vegetable fibres1 if level dye+s are to be obta9$4 ,9 dye+ wool ske9s comm]cially x is1 ( c\rse1 ( ! utmo/ importance to h ! colors p]fectly level & uni=m4 ,?is uni=mity is obta9$ easily en\gh1 :5 us+ ^! ,acid dyes1 by hav+ ! wool ?or\ghly wet be=e plac+ x 9 ! dye-ba?2 by hav+ x well loos5$ out & well /irr$ s t ! color w p5etrate ev5ly e "p ( ! mat]ial2 &1 f9ally1 by />t+ ! ba? at a mod]ate temp]ature1 & heat+ x gradually1 until ! prop] %ade is obta9$4 ,= h&icraft dye+ ! /ud5t is /rongly advis$ to practise %ad$ & irregul> effects1 ! s-call$ ,ra9b[ dye+1 ) wool 9 ske9s1 j z1 9 previ\s lessons1 ) raffia & ) cotton4 ,by us+ co>se heavy y>ns1 v beautiful two & ?ree color effects c be produc$1 :i*1 :5 us$ = embroid]y or weav+1 w prove mo/ int]e/+4 ,great c>e mu/ always be tak51 9 wool dye+1 to pres]ve ! lu/re & ! s(t effect ( ! wool1 & to avoid felt+4 ,?is c be/ be done by us+ mod]ate am\nts ( acid1 by dye+ at mod]ate temp]ature & nev] rais+ ! dye-ba? q to ! boil2 & f9ally1 by h&l+ ! goods z little z possible 9 ! acid dye-ba?1 consi/5t ( c\rse ) expos+ e portion equally to ! action ( ! dye/uff4 ,cotton ske9s c be work$ & rubb$1 & pull$1 & ?r[n up & d[n 9 ! hot dye-ba?1 )\t fe> ( injur+ !m4 ,b wool %\ld be h&l$ c>efully1 & work$ 9 ! dye-pot quietly & g5tly1 j suffici5tly to accompli% two results4 ,fir/1 ! wool at ! bottom ( ! pot %\ld be rais$ by a lift+ & turn+ motion & replac$ by fre% mat]ial2 & second1 :5 ! wool is l[]$ back into ! liquor x %\ld be loos5$1 s z to all[ ! dye-liquor to p5etrate ! mass4 ,,*apt] ,,ix ,,dye+ ,,fea!rs ,! use ( fea!rs &1 especially1 ( o/ri* fea!rs = mill9]y has1 dur+ ! pa/ few ye>s1 increas$ to enorm\s proportions4 ,besides ! home product1 f ,cali=nia & ! ,we/]n ,/ates1 :i*1 h[ev]1 is b small1 ! importation ( raw fea!rs f abroad has av]ag$1 dur+ ! pa/ two or ?ree ye>s1 ne>ly eight millions ( doll>s4 ,z yet1 ! dye+ ( ^! fea!rs is almo/ entirely conf9$ to pr(essionals--_! processes1 al?\gh simple1 n be+ g5]ally kn[n or publi%$4 ,z be=e m5tion$1 fea!rs1 l o!r animal products1 c be color$ ) ease by ei!r ! ,basic or ! ,acid dye/uffs4 ,9 practice1 z ) wool & silk1 ! ,acid dyes are univ]sally us$1 because ( _! great] v>iety1 _! great] fa/ness to light1 & _! bett] levell+ prop]ties4 ,to use ! ,acid colors ) success ! foll[+ po9ts mu/ be c>efully consid]$4 ,fir/1 ! ba?s mu/ be su* z n to ru9 or 8burn0 ! fea!rs1 i4e41 !y mu/ leave intact ! t9y b>bules ^u ! b>bs or 8flues10 z ! dy]s call !m1 :i* make ! fea!r look s(t & full & n /r+y4 ,second1 ! quill mu/ be fully dy$1 & ! %aft1 or /em ( ! fea!r1 mu/ also be color$ j z well z ! flues4 ,?is is a v common defect 9 fea!r dye+4 ,! quill1 be+ h>d & /iff & horny1 is mu* m difficult to p5etrate ) ! dye/uff ?an ! s(t1 delicate fibres4 ,if ! fea!r1 !re=e1 is dy$ hurri$ly or c>elessly1 ! latt] may be color$ d>k & full1 long be=e ! quill or ! l[] "p ( ! /em has be5 dy$ at all4 ,?is necessitates pa9t+ ! /em aft] ! f9i%+ process1 ) oil colors1 to mat* ! re/ ( ! fea!r4 ,f9ally1 aft] dye+1 ! fea!r mu/ be prop]ly f9i%$ s t ! flues w n look woolly on ! "o h&1 nor /r+y on ! o!r h&1 b s(t & full4 ,! :ole secret ( fea!r dye+ lies 9 ! prop] atta9m5t ( ^! ?ree requirem5ts1 success 9 :i* dep5ds respectively ^u 7a7 ! composition ( ! dye-ba?1 7b7 ! me?od ( dye+1 & 7c7 ! f9i%+ process4 7a7 ,! ,dye-ba?4--,z is univ]sally ! case :5 us+ ,acid dyes on animal fibres1 ! ba? mu/ be di/9ctly acid1 9 ord] to release ! free color acid f ! dye/uff1 :i*1 9 its comm]cial =m1 is a salt4 ,a v little exp]im5t+ ) o/ri* fea!rs w %[ t ! pres5ce1 n only ( m9]al acids l sulphuric or hydro*loric1 b ev5 ( ! mu* mild] organic acids1 l acetic or citric1 is liable to 8burn0 ! fea!r badly & conv]t a well b>bul$ flue into a b>e fibre :i*1 "u no conditions1 c look o!r ?an /r+y4 ,! acid commonly us$ by ! pr(essionals is oxalic acid1 b1 ( late ye>s1 dye+ *emi/s h be5 introduc+ into ! dye+ indu/ry ! use ( ! volatile & pung5t =mic acid1 & 9 ! dye+ ( o/ri* fea!rs ?is acid has be5 f\nd p>ticul>ly advantage\s4 ,except+ :5 a l>ge numb] ( fea!rs1 /rung toge!r on a l9e1 are to be dy$ ! same color1 x is cu/om>y to dye fea!rs 9 an agatew>e pan or flat di%1 & ab\t two-?irds ( a teaspoonful ( =mic or oxalic acid 9 a p9t ( wat]1 is ab\t ! "r proportion = "o or two fea!rs at a "t4 7b7 ,me?od ( ,dye+4-- ,s(t5+ ! ,fea!rs4--,be=e imm]s+ ! fea!rs 9 ! dye-ba? ! greate/ pa9s %\ld be tak51 fir/1 to ?or\ghly cleanse !m1 &1 second1 to ?or\ghly s(t5 !m4 ,z a rule1 ! fea!rs are blea*$ be=e dye+ & 9 ?is process !y g5]ally lose all ( _! orig9al grease4 ,b if !y %[ signs ( wett+ unev5ly :5 plung$ into hot wat]1 !y %\ld be c>efully scrubb$ ) ,ca/ile soap & hot wat]1 & well r9s$ till ! la/ trace ( soap has be5 remov$4 ,! clean fea!rs %\ld !n be ?or\ghly s(t5$ by imm]s+ !m 9 hot wat]4 ,?is is especially important z reg>ds ! quills & ! /ems1 :i* may h to soak = half an h\r or m be=e !y are s(t en\gh to take ! dye/uff4 ,dye+ ! ,fea!rs4--,aft] s(t5+1 ea* fea!r is held by ! tip1 & laid1 butt fir/1 9 ! dye-ba?4 ,= light %ades ! dye-liquor may rema9 cold1 b = d>k] %ades x is be/ to ent] ! fea!rs at a l[ temp]ature1 & raise ! latt] v g5tly till ! "r %ade is rea*$1 or ! ba? is decid$ly hot1 al?\gh /ill f> bel[ ! boil+ po9t4 ,above all1 c>e mu/ be tak5 to dye ! quill & butt fir/1 & to keep !m 9 ! ba? v mu* long] ?an ! flues & tip4 ,! latt] w dye 9 a m9ute or two1 b to ?or\ghly /a9 ! =m] may take tw5ty m9utes or half an h\r4 7c7 ,f9i%+4--,:5 ! desir$ %ade has be5 rea*$1 ! fea!r is tak5 f ! ba? & r9s$ ?or\ghly 9 w>m wat]1 to get rid ( ! loose color4 ,!n x mu/ be 8/>*$40 ,?is is ! te*nical "n = ! dry+ process1 & is v diff]5t f ! laundryman's idea ( 8/>*+10 al?\gh ! two processes h occasionally be5 confus$1 ) mo/ disa/r\s results1 z f> z ! fea!rs 7 conc]n$4 ,dry-/>*+4--,aft] ! dy$ fea!rs h be5 ?or\ghly r9s$1 !y %\ld be p>tially dri$1 by wip+ ) a s(t piece ( clo?1 l a h&k]*ief or piece ( *eeseclo?1 & !n laid flat on a piece ( /iff pap] & cov]$ ) a heap+ tablespoonful or s ( dry1 f9ely p[d]$ />* 7on a small scale ! quality kn[n z 8,electric ,/>*0 is em95tly satisfactory74 ,! />* is ?or\ghly rubb$ into ! fea!r ) ! f+]s1 & !n ! fea!r1 full ( />*1 is beat5 & du/$ aga9/ ! edge ( ! table or ! back ( ! h& until ! />* has all be5 %ak5 out4 ,aft] "o or two repetitions ( ?is process1 ! fea!r w be f\nd n only dry b ) ! b>bules prop]ly fill$ out4 ,sometimes ! fea!r1 ?us treat$1 has a woolly look1 ! />*+ process hav+ gone too f>4 ,9 ?is case x %\ld be damp5$ 9 cold wat]1 & re/>*$4 ,"u no circum/ances %\ld any />* pa/e be all[$ to t\* or =m on ! flues4 ,! />*+ mu/ be done 9 ! cold & ) ! unbrok5 />* gra9s4 ,wet-/>*+4--,"s dy]s pref] wet-/>*+ to ! dry process j describ$4 ,9 ?is process1 ! fea!rs1 aft] dye+ & r9s+1 are work$ = a m9ute or two 9 a ?ick milk 7n pa/e7 made by /irr+ "o or two l>ge tablespoonfuls ( dry />* 9 half a p9t or s ( cold wat]1 till all ! lumps h be5 brok5 up4 ,aft] ?is milk has be5 ?or\ghly rubb$ into e "p ( ! fea!r1 ! latt] is tak5 out1 dri$ r\ghly by wip+ ) *eeseclo?1 & !n by wrapp+ betwe5 blott+ pap] or fold$ *eeseclo? & runn+ c>efully ?r\gh a n too tight wr+]4 ,! fea!r is !n tak5 out & ?or\ghly dri$1 ei!r by lay+ x on ! table 9 ! sunlight or 9 a w>m room = "s "t1 or1 if v great c>e is tak51 by hold+ & mov+ x ov] a hot-air regi/]1 or high ov] ! /ove or gas flame4 ,( c\rse1 if ?is is done c>elessly & too great heat is appli$1 "s ( ! />* gra9s w be conv]t$ into pa/e1 & ! fea!r probably ru9$4 ,:5 ?or\ghly dry1 8bone dry10 z ! dy]s call x1 ! fea!r is beat5 aga9/ ! back ( ! h&1 or edge ( ! table until all ! />* is %ak5 out4 ,dye+ 9 ! ,/>*4--,:5 dye+ light %ades "t may be sav$ by dye+ & wet-/>*+ at ! same "t1 9 ! same ba?4 ,! fea!r1 ?or\ghly soak$ 9 hot wat]1 is plac$ 9 ! />* milk1 to :i* a qu>t] teaspoonful or s ( =mic acid & a little dye/uff h be5 add$1 & !n work$1 9 ! cold1 until ! prop] %ade has be5 rea*$1 ! />* be+ tak5 up at ! same "t4 ,!n on dry+ & beat+1 ! fea!r w come out bo? dy$ & f9i%$4 ,?is has ! disadvantage ( leav+ a little acid 9 ! f9i%$ fea!r1 b :5 us+ small quantities ( oxalic acid1 ?is is ( little1 if any importance4 ,sugge/ions z to ,fea!r ,dye+4--,^! processes %\ld enable any intellig5t craftsman to dye ev5 ! mo/ co/ly & mo/ delicate fea!rs )\t dang] ( spoil+ !m4 ,%ade effects 9 "o1 two1 or m colors c be easily obta9$ by ! use ( a little +5uity1 rememb]+ always t ! quill & ! /em are v mu* m difficult to dye ?an ! flues or tip4 ,x w be rememb]$ t comp>atively few o/ri* fea!rs are n[ us$1 s+ly2 ! plumes s abundantly 9 use1 n[adays1 be+ almo/ inv>iably built up by sew+ two or usually ?ree fea!rs toge!r1 "o und]nea? ! o!r1 ! /em be+ c>efully %av$ d[n s z n to make !m too clumsy4 ,v *>m+ effects c be obta9$ by dye+ ! individual fea!rs diff]5t b h>moni\s colors1 & !n comb9+ !m into "o plume lat]4 ,b1 usually1 ! plume is made fir/1 & !n dy$ aft]w>ds4 ,x may be sugge/$1 "h1 t v beautiful effects c be produc$ by tak+ l>ge1 h&some1 s+le fea!rs1 be=e !y are blea*$1 & dye+ !m a pleasant %ade ( r$ or blue or ( "s mix$ color4 ,! natural black ( ! fea!r1 ) its irregul> m>k+s1 (t5 gives v int]e/+ results1 & ! exp5se is mu* less ?an t ( a built-up fea!r4 ,aft] ! />*+ process1 ! dri$ fea!r is usually f9i%$ by 8curl+10 a process simple en\gh 9 itself1 b :i* _h be/ be left to ! pr(essional1 = fe> ( injury4 ,! blea*+ ( fea!rs1 also1 is a process :i* is h>dly to be attempt$ by ! amateur1 unless he is prep>$ to sp5d a good deal ( 8 "t & money 9 exp]im5t+4 ,! process1 h[ev]1 is well und]/ood by dye+ *emi/s & c be le>n$ )\t mu* difficulty1 by a c>eful /ud5t ) "s k ( *emi/ry4 ,/ripp+ ,fea!rs4--,by soak+ 9 w>m wat]1 conta9+ a teaspoonful or s ( ammonia wat] to ! p9t1 & !n c>efully wa%+ ) soap & hot wat]1 ^! ,acid colors c be1 z a rule1 /ripp$ f fea!rs almo/ entirely4 ,?is does n1 to be sure1 improve ! orig9al quality ( ! goods1 b1 c>efully done1 its bad effects are h>dly1 if at all1 p]ceptible1 & x enables ! dy] to rem$y a bad piece ( dye+1 or to dye an old fea!r t has become fad$ or discolor$ by exposure4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 does n apply to black dy$ fea!rs4 ,aft] :ite fea!rs h be5 worn = "s "t !y g5]ally become soil$ & yell[4 ,if ! /ock 0 good to />t ) !y c be imm5sely improv$ 9 appe>ance1 if n made q equal to new1 by simply scrubb+ !m ) a piece ( ,ca/ile soap1 9 hot wat]1 & !n1 aft] ?or\gh r9s+1 by dye+ !m1 9 ! />*-ba?1 ) a v fa9t trace ( blue or blui% violet4 ,black ,dye+ ( ,fea!rs4--,?is is ! mo/ difficult process 9 fea!r dye+1 &1 z a rule1 %\ld be avoid$ by ! amateur4 ,x is impossible1 s f>1 to get a ?or\ghly good black by ! use ( any artificial dye/uff1 or any simple process4 ,! be/ ,acid blacks on ! m>ket1 dy$ ) ! greate/ c>e1 give a color to fea!rs t by !mselves may look pretty well1 b1 :5 comp>$ ) fir/-class products1 %[ dull & grey4 ,! only satisfactory blacks1 s f>1 are produc$ by a long & t$i\s s]ies ( op]ations1 dep5d+ on mordant+ =1 & dye+ )1 logwood4 ,z a rule1 ! pr(essional black dy]--& really good ones are few & f> betwe5--all[s at lea/ five or six days = ! process1 ! diff]5t /eps ( :i* he usually gu>ds z a valuable secret1 :i* inde$ x is4 ,! writ] possesses "o or two ( ^! =mulas1 obta9$1 z special m>ks ( favor1 f fir/-class dy]s1 b has nev] _h occasion to te/ !m ?or\ghly1 & !re=e is unwill+ to publi% !m "h4 ,good dye+ *emi/s h tri$ aga9 & aga9 to %ort5 & simplify ! process1 & h _h "s success4 ,b to ?is day no color has be5 f\nd to replace logwood1 & ?is black dye+ ( fea!rs is p]haps ! only dye+ problem t has n z yet be5 satisfactorily solv$ ) ! aid ( mod]n dye/uffs4 ,pa9t+ ,fea!rs4--,"s dy]s1 in/ead ( dye+ fea!rs1 pa9t !m4 ,!y dip ! cleans$ & c>efully dri$ fea!r1 = a mom5t1 into a ba? ( oil pa9t1 ?9n$ greatly ) gasol5e4 ,! fea!r is !n tak5 f ! ba?1 dri$ by wav+ 9 ! air1 &1 :5 ?or\ghly dry1 f9i%$ by beat+ &1 if necess>y1 ) a light dry-/>*+4 ,! results1 = colors1 are fairly satisfactory b are n s p]man5t z ! dye+ process4 ,9 an oil pa9t ! solid color+ matt]1 or pigm5t1 is gr\nd up f9ely 9 boil$ l9se$ oil1 an oil :i* has ! prop]ty ( dry+ to a firm v>ni% :5 expos$ to ! air4 ,?is mixture is ?9n$ ) turp5t9e or gasol5e to ! desir$ consi/5cy be=e us+4 ,x is evid5t t1 9 color+ fea!rs1 if en\gh oil is appli$ to fa/5 ! pigm5t v firmly to ! flues1 !re is dang] at ! same "t ( pla/]+ ! f9e b>bules s t !y w nev] get back to _! prop] places1 & ! product w be hopelessly /r+y4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if ! am\nt ( oil is s small1 ?anks to ! abundant ?9n+ ) gasol5e1 t !re is no fe> ( its /ick+ ! b>bules toge!r1 !re w h>dly be en\gh oil left to firmly fa/5 ! pigm5t to ! flues1 on dry+1 & ! color is apt to rub1 & to we> (f quickly4 ,pa9t1 ?9n$ ) gasol5e1 has be5 appli$ to fea!rs occasionally by means ( /5cils1 "s ( ! s-call$ 8b>r$0 effects1 look+ l ! fea!rs f a b>r$ ,plym\? ,rock h51 be+ made 9 ?is way--! color1 black pa9t or v>ni%1 greatly ?9n$1 be+ appli$ by means ( an 8air bru%0 or atomiz]4 ,occasionally v l>ge1 wide1 & h&some fea!rs h appe>$ decorat$ ) fl[]s & o!r figures1 9 bright colors1 appli$ 9 ! same way ) an air bru%1 sometimes ) ! help ( /5cils1 b g5]ally free-h&4 ,^! effects are (t5 r crude & in>ti/ic1 b !re is no reason :y1 skilfully us$1 ?is me?od ( decorat+ ! backs ( fea!rs might n produce int]e/+ effects4 ,,*apt] ,x ,,lea!r ,,& ,,lea!r ,,dye+ ,s f> z c be le>n$1 9 e "p ( ! _w1 ! fir/ mat]ials us$ by man = clo?+ & cov]+s 7 ! sk9s ( animals4 ,9 its natural condition1 h[ev]1 ! hide /ripp$ f a dead animal has c]ta9 prop]ties :i* greatly int]f]e ) su* use4 ,:5 dry x is /iff & h>d2 :5 moi/ x rapidly decomposes1 & :5 expos$ to hot wat] x swells & 9 "t dissolves4 ,^! difficulties _h to be ov]come be=e sk9s & furs c\ld be prop]ly utiliz$4 ,&1 accord+ly1 9 ! hi/ory ( e nation & race1 "o ( ! v e>lie/ ( all develop+ indu/ries 0 ! art ( lea!r mak+2 t is1 ( conv]t+ ! h>d & easily decompos$ ra:ide into a s(t1 pliable1 & comp>atively p]man5t sub/ance1 well suit$ = ! use ( man4 ,9 mo/ unciviliz$ nations ?is conv]sion 0 accompli%$ by rubb+ & work+ "s oily or greasy sub/ance into ! hide1 until x 0 ?or\ghly s(t & flexible4 ,?us1 9 our ,indian tribes1 ! old squaws w\ld turn ! de] sk9s & ! pelts ( v>i\s fur-be>+ animals into beautifully s(t & /rong lea!r1 by rubb+ & work+ into !m ! bra9s ( ! animals4 ,! ,esquimaux & o!r ,nor!rn tribes f "t immemorial1 too1 h work$ out ?is me?od ) great p]fection4 ,inde$ )\t x !y w\ld h be5 unable to survive at all4 ,9 o!r p>ts ( ! _w x 0 discov]$ t ra:ide c\ld be made m durable by treatm5t ) metallic salts1 especially ) alum1 & !n1 by s(t5+ ?is product by rubb+ 9 "s oily mat]ial1 a v fair lea!r c\ld be produc$4 ,on ! o!r h&1 9 w>m] climates1 z = in/ance among ! ,egyptians1 ! v e>lie/ records %[ ! use ( vegetable extracts1 conta9+ ! sub/ances n[ kn[n z tann9s1 = s(t5+ & pres]v+ sk9s2 & ^! races und]/ood ! art ( dye+1 pa9t+1 gild+1 & emboss+ ! lea!r ?us made1 & us$ x = %oes1 /raps1 aprons1 & h>ness4 ,! ,romans & ,babylonians 7 fam\s = _! lea!r indu/ry1 & ! anci5t ,romans n only import$ b manufactur$ x !mselves1 & us$ x freely4 ,9 ! ,middle ,ages ! greate/ developm5ts 9 ! art 7 made by ! ,moors 9 ,spa91 ^: lea!r1 commonly call$ ,cordovan lea!r1 f ! city :i* 0 ! c5tre ( ! indu/ry1 has probably nev] be5 equall$ = beauty & importance4 ,?is ,cordovan lea!r1 ( :i* f9e specim5s are /ill to be f\nd 9 museums & private collections1 0 made ( %eepsk91 tann$ ) b>k4 ,x 0 ornam5t$ ) silv] foil1 laid on a back+ ( size1 & cov]$ ) a yell[ v>ni% or lacqu]1 sometimes t9t$ ) bitum54 ,?is protect$ bo? ! lea!r & design v p]fectly f injury by air or mod]ate moi/ure1 &1 be+ done on a l>ge scale ) spl5did designs1 0 us$ l>gely = h&some wall cov]+s1 compet+ favorably ) tape/ries manufactur$ 9 ,france & else:]e = ! same purposes4 ,,prep>ation ,,( ,,lea!r4 ,9 g5]al1 we may say t at ! pres5t day !re are ! same ?ree classes ( lea!r z 9 ! days ( ! anci5ts1 accord+ to :e!r ! hide is treat$ ) oil or fatty mat]ials1 ) alum or o!r metallic salts1 or ) ! b>k ( trees or o!r vegetable sub/ances conta9+ ! comp\nd kn[n z tann94 #a4 ,oil ,tann+4--,?is1 :ile ( less importance ?an ! o!r two me?ods1 is /ill us$ 9 consid]able quantities = light] & *eap] qualities ( lea!r4 ,! process mo/ commonly us$ is (t5 call$ *amois+1 or 8%amoy+10 because x is us$ pr9cipally = ! production ( 8*amois lea!r0 or wa% lea!r4 ,! hides us$ = ?is =m are usually ?9 & light1 ! fle% sides ( split %eepsk9s be+ ! commone/1 & ! resultant lea!r is n only s(t & flexible & /rong1 b is also unaffect$ by wat]4 ,= ?is reason x is m difficult to dye ?an o!r v>ieties4 #b4 ,m9]al ,tann+ or ,taw+4 ,alum4--,= ?\s&s ( ye>s x has be5 kn[n t if a solution ( alum is rubb$ or soak$ into a raw hide ! fibres ( ! lea!r become *ang$ to an insoluble & p]man5t condition1 & by aft]w>ds rubb+ & roll+1 & work+ 9 "s greasy mat]ial1 l ! yolk ( eggs1 a useful v>iety ( lea!r c be produc$4 ,! alum 9 ?is case does n =m a p]man5t comp\nd ) ! animal fibres1 b c be wa%$ out by work+ 9 w>m wat]4 ,*emi/s h agre$1 !re=e1 to call ?is tempor>y reaction by ! "n 8taw+0 z oppos$ to 8tann+0 :]e ! *emical action is a p]man5t "o4 ,! 8kid0 lea!rs us$ = gloves are commonly made by ?is process4 ,*rome4--,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s a new process has be5 introduc$1 bas$ ^u ! use ( *romium salts1 :i* are absorb$ by ! hide 9 ! =m ( ! yell[ or orange-color$ salts1 *romate & bi*romate ( sodium1 & !n are r$uc$ 9 ! fibres to a gre5 comp\nd by ! use ( hydrosulphite ( sodium1 or "s o!r /rong b h>mless r$uc+ ag5t4 ,?is *rome lea!r is extremely valuable1 & is freely us$1 especially = ! 8upp]s0 ( good quality 9 ! boot & %oe trade4 ,?is lea!r is v /rong1 & is wat]-pro(1 b possesses a s]i\s disadvantage = ! dy]1 9 t :5 x is once dry x c nev] be aga9 wett$1 & !re=e x mu/ be dy$ fre% f ! tann]y wa% tanks1 or n at all4 #c4 ,vegetable1 or ,b>k ,tann+4--,at "s v e>ly p]iod 9 ! _w's hi/ory x 0 discov]$ t c]ta9 vegetable extracts1 possess+ 9 g5]al a peculi> 8puck]y0 ta/e1 also possess$ valuable prop]ties 9 ! treatm5t ( raw hide4 ,?is process 0 c]ta9ly well kn[n to ! ,romans1 = ,pl9y m5tions1 z tann+ mat]ials1 ! ?ree great s\rces ( tann9 to-day1 namely1 gall nuts1 ! b>k ( trees1 & suma*4 ,^! & _m o!r vegetable mat]ials1 us$ = tann+1 all conta9 a peculi> sub/ance1 kn[n z 8tann90 or tannic acid1 :i* gives !m _! useful prop]ties4 ,! tann9s f diff]5t plants are n id5tical1 al?\gh closely relat$ to ea* o!r4 ,!y all h a /rong a/r+5t ta/e1 & dissolve readily 9 wat]1 =m+ weak acid solutions4 ,!y make d>k-color$ comp\nds ) iron salts1 & conv]t ! hide tissue ( animals into a t\gh1 insoluble1 & comp>atively inde/ructible mat]ial :i*1 :5 loos5$ & s(t5$ by "s me*anical action1 is kn[n z lea!r4 ,tann94--,pure tann9 c be/ be obta9$ f gall nuts--small excresc5ces on ! leaves & twigs ( c]ta9 plants caus$ by ! puncture ( "s insect prep>+ to deposit its eggs !re4 ,! be/ v>ieties1 call$ ,aleppo galls1 come f ,turkey & ,au/ria1 :]e !y are f\nd on oak trees1 & conta9 f #fj to #gj p] c5t4 ( tannic acid4 ,f ^! x c be extract$ 9 a v pure =m1 & x comes to m>ket z an extremely light1 f9e1 grey or light tan-color$ p[d]1 :i* dissolves 9 v little wat] to an almo/ colorless solution4 ,tann9 9 ?is =m is l>gely us$ = dye+1 especially 9 ! dye+ ( cotton or l95 goods ) ! ,basic colors4 ,= tann+ purposes x is cu/om>y to use ! b>k ( v>i\s trees1 oak b>k be+ ! mo/ e/eem$ 9 ,europe &1 9 ?is c\ntry1 hemlock b>k be+ ! mo/ us$4 ,^! conta9 f #ab to #ae p] c5t4 ( tann91 z a rule1 ) a mod]ate am\nt ( br[n color+ matt]4 ,p9e b>k is also frequ5tly us$1 & ! b>k ( fir1 spruce1 & l>*1 :ile1 9 ,russia especially1 mu* will[ b>k & bir* b>k is us$ = light grades1 ! s-call$ ,russia lea!r4 ,! next mo/ valuable s\rce ( tann9 is kn[n z suma*1 consi/+ ( ! f9ely-gr\nd twigs & leaves ( sev]al species ( t plant4 ,! ,am]ican suma* conta9s m tann9--#ah to #be p] c5t--?an o!r v>ieties1 b x is less valuable ?an ! ,sicilian suma*1 :i* conta9s less color+ matt]1 & !re=e c be us$ = tann+ light %ades ( lea!r4 ,all ! mat]ials c be us$ 9 ! tann]y ei!r directly1 or 9 ! =m ( previ\sly prep>$ extracts4 ,f ! ,f> ,ea/ come "s v important s\rces ( tann91 us$ = dye+ z well z = lea!rmak+1 9 ! =m ( dri$ extracts ( v>i\s plants4 ,"o ( ^! is ,cate*u or ,cut*1 n[ ( value only = its tann9 cont5ts1 b 9 =m] ye>s us$ z a br[n dye/uff z well4 ,a simil> product1 kn[n z ,gambi]1 is /ill import$ on a l>ge scale f ,s+apore & o!r ,ea/]n ports4 ,x conta9s less tann9 ?an ,cut*1 b less color+ matt] z well4 ,x is us$ n only = lea!r b = black silk dye+ ) logwood4 ,! ,tann+ ,process4--,)\t go+ too mu* into detail1 ! conv]sion ( raw hide into lea!r by means ( tann9 is a v l5g?y & me*anical process4 ,! hides are fir/ s(t5$ by soak+ 9 wat]1 & !n are dehair$1 usually by /eep+ 9 a ba? ( slak$ lime until ! hair is loos5$ & c be scrap$ (f ) a blunt knife4 ,?is lime mu/ !n be extract$ by /eep+ 9 an acid ba?1 pref]ably conta9+ "s organic acid l lactic or acetic acid2 "s manufactur]s1 = ! sake ( *eapness1 use dilute sulphuric acid = ?is purpose1 ) ! inv>iable result ( mak+ ! lea!r brittle & rott5 :5 x is fully dri$4 ,aft] ! acid has be5 r9s$ (f1 ! hides are plac$ 9 ! tan liquor1 made ei!r by dissolv+ "o ( ! extracts 9 wat]1 or by mix+ ! f9ely-gr\nd b>k or suma* ) wat] & plac+ ! hides 9 ! mixture4 ,! tann+ process is a v sl[ "o1 especially = heavy hides1 & x may take sev]al mon?s be=e ! tann9 p5etrates to ! c5t] ( ! goods4 ,:5 t "t has come1 ! hides are tak5 out1 bru%$ (f1 r9s$ ) cold wat]1 dra9$ (f on horses1 & !n hung up 9 a dry+ %$ to sl[ly dry4 ,:5 9 ! prop] condition !y are ?or\ghly roll$ by h& or ma*9]y1 to break up any adhesions1 & to make ! lea!r s(t & flexible4 ,!n !y are ready to be f9i%$1 are dy$ to ! requir$ %ade1 rubb$ d[n & poli%$ ) wax or v>ni%1 gra9$ by be+ run ?r\gh roll]s ) engrav$ patt]ns1 & o!rwise prep>$ = ! trade4 ,,dye+ ,,& ,,/a9+ ,,( ,,lea!r4 ,g5]al4--,x has be5 m5tion$1 9 previ\s *apt]s1 t animal fibres ( all sorts1 su* z wool1 silk1 fea!rs1 etc41 seem to possess at ! same "t bo? acid & basic prop]ties1 & !re=e !y comb9e readily ) dye/uffs belong+ to ! ,basic & also to ! ,acid class4 ,?is at once di/+ui%es animal fibres f vegetable fibres su* z cotton1 l951 & pap]1 :i*1 be+ practically neutral 9 composition1 w n comb9e ) ei!r ,basic or ,acid dye/uffs )\t ! assi/ance ( mordants4 ,?is same rule applies to lea!r1 & we are !re=e able to dye lea!r successfully ) ei!r ,acid or ,basic dye/uffs1 us+ a dye-liquor made acid )1 pref]ably1 a volatile organic acid su* z acetic or =mic acid4 ,acids4--,= ,basic colors acetic acid is g5]ally us$1 z be+ *eap] ?an ! o!r1 & q z good = dissolv+ ! dyes = ! dye-ba?4 ,= ,acid colors x is g5]ally be/ to use =mic acid1 = acetic acid 9 _m cases fails to lib]ate ! color-acids f ! dyes1 & !n ! colors fail to 8bite40 ,pr(essional lea!r dy]s1 = ! sake ( economy1 (t5 use a little sulphuric acid 9 ! dye-ba?1 a practice :i* is "o ( ! *ief causes ( ! %ort life ( mod]n lea!rs4 ,) o!r animal fibres1 su* z wool & silk1 ! ,acid colors take q z readily z ! ,basic2 b ) lea!r1 !re is "s little diff]5ce1 accord+ to ! way 9 :i* ! lea!r has be5 prep>$4 ,= our purposes x is h>dly wor? :ile to discuss ! dye+ ( *rome lea!r or ( *amois lea!r4 ,! lea!r almo/ univ]sally employ$ = h& "w has be5 b>k tann$1 except+ :]e v :ite goods are us$1 ( r light quality4 ,^! are g5]ally taw$ ) alum1 & = ?is reason h a great] aff9ity = ! ,acid colors ?an :5 ! fibres h already be5 fully *>g$ ) tannic acid1 :i* at ! same "t1 x w be rememb]$1 acts z an excell5t mordant = ! ,basic colors4 ,dye/uffs4--,accord+ly1 :ile ,acid colors may be us$1 !y d n act ne>ly s readily z ! ,basic colors4 ,= ?is reason1 except = special %ades su* z a cle> sky-blue or a pure sc>let1 :i* c h>dly be obta9$ except+ by ! use ( ,acid dyes1 or :]e special fa/ness to sunlight is requir$1 ! be/ ,basic colors1 su* z ,me?yl5e ,blue1 ,me?yl5e ,heliotrope1 ,?i(lav9e ,t 7= yell[7 & ,safran9e 7= r$7 are usually employ$4 ,= black1 x is well to use "o ( ! _m ,lea!r blacks1 made by mix+ toge!r p[]ful ,basic dyes4 ,= br[n1 ! /&>d lea!r color1 us$ 9 enorm\s quantities = gloves & ! l1 is ! well-kn[n ,bism>ck ,br[n1 or = m orange %ades1 ! closely relat$ dye/uff1 ,*rysoid9e4 ,&1 al?\gh nei!r ( ^! colors is z fa/ to light z ! ,basic dyes m5tion$ above1 !y give v satisfactory results4 ,^! colors %\ld be dissolv$ 9 wat] acidifi$ ) a little acetic acid4 ,! greate/ pa9s mu/ be tak5 9 ea* case to see t ! color is all 9 solution1 & t no specks ( undissolv$ color are all[$ to come 9 contact ) ! lea!r4 ,! lea!r mu/ be v c>efully & ?or\ghly moi/5$ by soak+1 if necess>y ov] night1 9 lukew>m wat] s(t5$1 if ! surface ( ! lea!r seems to dem& x1 ) a few drops ( ammonia wat]4 ,dye+ ,lea!r & ,/a9+ ,lea!r4--,z reg>ds ! application ( ! color2 dy]s g5]ally make a di/9ction betwe5 lea!r t is dy$ & lea!r t is /a9$4 ,9 dye+ lea!r ! moi/5$ goods are plac$ 9 a tray or pan 7agatew>e is mo/ conv5i5t = small pieces7 & float$ backw>ds & =w>ds 9 ! dye-liquor1 :i* %\ld be deep en\gh to fully cov] !m4 ,! liquor is usually ab\t lukew>m on />t+1 & may be heat$ v gradually & g5tly to ab\t #abj or #acj1 if desir$4 ,= light %ades1 h[ev]1 ?is is n at all necess>y1 & inde$ ! color1 z a rule1 p5etrates deep] & is laid on m ev5ly :5 ! ba? is kept cold4 ,! lea!r is kept 9 ! dye-ba? until ! desir$ %ade is rea*$1 :i* %\ld be at ! end ( half an h\r or s4 ,:5 dy$ 9 ?is mann]1 ! dye/uff has a *ance to soak into ! lea!r1 & s1 :5 f9i%$1 ! color is n s liable to be affect$ by rubb+ or by we>4 ,! lea!r %\ld come out ev5ly coat$ on bo? sides1 %ad$ effects if desir$ be+ produc$ lat]1 by ! /a9+ process4 ,/a9$ ,lea!r4--,9 /a9+ lea!r1 on ! o!r h&1 ! color solution is appli$ directly to ! surface ( ! damp--n wet--goods by means ( a bru% or s(t sponge1 or a little pad ( clo?4 ,accord+ly1 no matt] h[ c>efully ! lea!r has be5 s(t5$ & moi/5$ be=eh&1 ! color does n p5etrate f>1 & is f\nd only on ! p>ticul> surface :]e x has be5 appli$4 ,= flat1 ev5 %ades1 ! dye+ process is usually pref]able1 b by /a9+1 x is possible = ! craftsman to "w on ! surface ( ! lea!r1 z an arti/ does on pap] ) wat] colors1 & beautiful effects c be produc$4 ,oil pa9t is (t5 us$ = decorat+ lea!r1 & :5 appli$ skilfully 9 ?9 lay]s1 ! effects are good4 ,b /a9+ ) dye/uffs is usually pref]able1 z %[+ m ( ! gra9 ( ! lea!r1 & be+ m transp>5t4 ,! /a9+ ( lea!r may ei!r be done free-h&1 or else by ! fill+ 9 ( set designs1 m>k$ out previ\sly by tool+ or "s o!r me?od2 or1 z w be discuss$ lat]1 by ! use ( /5cils4 ,9 any case success *iefly dep5ds ^u ! condition ( ! surface t is to receive ! dye4 ,! surface ( ! lea!r %\ld be damp5$1 ?or\ghly & ev5ly1 s t ! dye w adh]e1 & ev5 p5etrate a little2 b x mu/ n be s wet t ! colors w run4 ,to get ?is exactly "r requires consid]able practice4 ,z a rule1 ! lea!r is1 fir/1 c>efully & ev5ly soak$ 9 wat] or1 if x is at all greasy1 9 wat] ) a little ammonia 9 x4 ,:5 ?is has be5 ?or\ghly done1 ! lea!r is tak5 out & dri$ (f1 fir/ on "o side & !n on ! o!r1 ) pieces ( clo? & !n lat] ) blott+ pap]4 ,aft] ?is x is expos$ to ! air = a little "t until ! exact po9t ( dryness has be5 rea*$4 ,! color solution %\ld be appli$ ) a camel's hair bru% or a small1 s(t pad ( cotton1 & any excess ( liquid wip$ (f1 or soak$ up ) blott+ pap]1 & ! color rubb$ 9 ) ! f+]s or pad1 z soon z possible4 ,acid ,dyes = ,lea!r4--,z above m5tion$1 c]ta9 %ades are h>d to obta9 )\t ! use ( ,acid colors4 ,?is is p>ticul>ly true 9 ! case ( blue4 ,= ! light] & bright] %ades x is necess>y to use "o ( ! ,acid blues su* z ,cyanole ,,ff4 7,cassella71 or ,pat5t ,blue 7,metz74 ,^! are appli$ 9 exactly ! same way z ! ,basic colors4 ,"s ( ! ,acid r$s1 too1 w be f\nd valuable = c]ta9 %ades ( sc>let1 etc41 t c h>dly be rea*$ ) ,safran9e4 ,among ! be/ ( ! fa/ ,acid colors = lea!r may be m5tion$3 ,r$4--,fa/ ,sc>let1 ,,bxg1 ,badis*e2 ,biebri* ,acid ,r$1 #b;,b1 ,kalle1 & ,fa/ ,acid ,r$1 ,m1 ,metz4 ,yell[4--,t>traz9e1 ,badis*e2 ,wool ,yell[1 #a;,a1 ,kalle1 & ,fa/ ,acid ,yell[1 #c;,g1 ,metz4 ,blue4--,wool ,fa/ ,blue1 ,,bl1 ,badis*e2 ,n]ocyannic ,blue1 ,b1 ,kalle1 & ,fa/ ,acid ,blue1 ,,bb1 ,metz4 ,:5 us+ ^! ,acid dyes side by side ) ! ,basic colors1 x w be notic$ t ! latt]1 z a rule1 are f> m p[]ful1 & color ! lea!r mu* m rapidly ?an ! ,acid dyes4 ,accord+ly = /a9+ lea!r ! ,basic dyes are ! mo/ satisfactory4 ,on ! o!r h& 9 dye+ lea!r1 :]e ! dye-liquor is all[$ to act long] on ! goods1 ! ,acid colors are m valuable1 n only because !y are fa/ to light1 b also because !y w p5etrate m deeply & m ev5ly4 ,f9i%+ ,lea!r4--,aft] color+ ! lea!r x is necess>y to f9i% x c>efully1 to get a smoo? surface & to protect x f injury by rubb+ or moi/ure4 ,"s work]s simply let ! lea!r dry & !n rub d[n ! surface 7)\t us+ any wax or oil7 ) ! f+] or ! palm ( ! h&s4 ,usually ! gra9 or hair side ( ! lea!r is rubb$ d[n ) a little wax1 ! :ite or yell[ wax1 us$ l>gely z a f9i%+ poli% = tan %oes1 be+ frequ5tly employ$ = ?is purpose4 ,x c be readily obta9$ f almo/ any good %oe /ore or1 if desir$1 c be made by mix+ toge!r equal quantities ( beeswax & c>nauba wax 9 a molt5 condition1 & ?9n+ ! mixture ) a little turp5t9e4 ,a recipe us$ ) success by _m lea!r work]s calls = a mixture ( beeswax1 turp5t9e1 & neatsfoot oil4 ,! wax is c>efully melt$1 mix$ ) a small am\nt ( turp5t9e1 & !n en\gh oil is /irr$ 9 to make x s(t4 ,:5 us$ ^u emboss$ or figur$ lea!r ?is wax is nev] appli$ directly1 b is plac$ inside a little bag ( s(t musl91 & rubb$ on & into ! lea!r ) a circul> motion--! palm ( ! h& be+ (t5 us$ to f9i% ! wax$ surface4 ,bronze ,effects4--,an int]e/+ po9t 9 connection ) ! use ( ! ,basic dyes1 & "s ( ! ,acid dyes1 too1 = /a9+ lea!r is t1 :5 appli$ 9 a /rong solution1 z is v likely to be ! case :5 "o is try+ to get d>k %ades ) an application ( ! bru% or pad1 !y q frequ5tly1 on dry+1 %[ a v m>k$ metallic lu/re4 ,?is is due to ! =mation ( m9ute1 bright-color$ cry/als1 :i* reflect ! light1 ?us imp>t+ to ! fabric colors :i* h no?+ to d ) ! %ade produc$ by ! dye/uff itself4 ,?us1 ,cyanole ,,ff1 ,cassella1 :5 dissolv$1 or :5 dy$ on lea!r or any o!r mat]ial1 gives a r gre5i% %ade ( blue4 ,b x gives a v brilliant old gold effect1 almo/ z bright z gold leaf1 :5 appli$ 9 a /rong solution & all[$ to dry quickly4 ,:5 ?is effect is n desir$ x c be avoid$ by build+ up ! d>k %ades by successive applications ( weak solution1 & by rubb+ d[n ! little cry/als )1 if necess>y1 a little moi/ure1 :5ev] !y appe> to be =m+4 ,9 "s cases1 h[ev]1 ?is bronz+ prop]ty is ( "s value1 & enables ! skilful craftsman to obta9 int]e/+ & effective results ) a m9imum ( tr\ble & exp5se4 ,by pa9t+ on a /rong solution ( dye/uff1 & lett+ x dry quickly1 ! bronze effect w be produc$1 & !n by rubb+ 9 portions1 ! true color+ ( ! dye/uff w be br\ght out 9 /rong contra/ to ! cry/al-cov]$ surface4 ,un=tunately1 ^! bronze effects are n fa/ to ei!r rubb+ or moi/ure1 & ev5 dry rubb+ w break d[n ! cry/als1 :ile rubb+ ) a damp clo? or a moi/ f+] w dissolve ! color (f 9 blot*es4 ,to r5d] ?is bronze effect m durable1 x is possible to make a regul> bronze lacqu]1 by add+ v>ni% or gum l orange %ellac or gum b5zo9 to a /rong alcoholic solution ( a ,basic dye4 ,! bronze v>ni% ?us produc$ w1 :5 dry1 /& light f9i%+ ) wax 9 ! usual way4 ,! addition ( a little b5zoic acid to ! solution increases ! lu/re ( ! cry/als4 ,,*apt] ,,xi ,,silk--,i ,s f> z we c tell1 silk 0 fir/ discov]$ & manufactur$ 9 ,*9a ab\t #agjj ,b4,c41 a date correspond+ 9 ,biblical hi/ory to ! "t ( ! patri>* ,joseph4 ,f ,*9a x 0 export$ to ! great & weal?y empire ( ,p]sia1 & f !re 0 fir/ br\ght into ,europe by ,alex&] ! ,great aft] 8 defeat ( ! ,p]sian k+4 ,its orig91 al?\gh kn[n & describ$ by ,ari/otle1 0 = sev]al hundr$ ye>s a my/]y4 ,dur+ ! ,roman ,empire1 silk5 g>m5ts1 wov5 9 ,europe1 f ,*9ese silk import$ by way ( ,p]sia1 7 important & v highly priz$ articles ( luxury4 ,ab\t #eee ,a4,d41 :ile comm]ce ) ,p]sia 0 int]rupt$ by w>f>e1 two monks 9 ! pay ( ! ,emp]or ,ju/9ian smuggl$ eggs ( ! silkworm & se$s ( mulb]ry trees f ,*9a to ,con/ant9ople4 ,?is 0 ! orig9 ( ! ,european silk indu/ry4 ,x spread rapidly to ! v>i\s c\ntries bord]+ on ! ,m$it]ranean1 & by ! sev5te5? c5tury 0 firmly e/abli%$ n only 9 ,spa9 & ,italy1 b also 9 ,france4 ,ef=ts 7 made to introduce x1 at ?is "t1 into ,engl&1 b )\t success4 ,9 #afbb ,k+ ,james ,i />t$ ! indu/ry1 = ! fir/ "t1 9 ! colony ( ,virg9ia 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,s9ce t "t num]\s attempts h be5 made to develop ! ,am]ican silkworm indu/ry1 b ) v little success1 ow+ to ! l>ge am\nt ( h& labor necess>y to produce ! mat]ial4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! v f9e/ raw silk 9 ! _w is produc$ 9 ! s\? ( ,france1 & next to t come c]ta9 br&s ( ,italian silk4 ,! ,japanese silk is m v>iable 9 quality1 al?\gh /eadily improv+1 :ile ! ,*9ese silk1 z a rule1 is less satisfactory & m apt to be light & fluffy4 ,) reg>d to ! consumption1 x 0 e/imat$ t 9 #aijg ,europe us$ "s tw5ty-five million p\nds1 & ! ,unit$ ,/ates fifte5 million p\nds ( raw silk1 :i*1 at an av]age price ( ne>ly #e4ej p] p\nd1 am\nt$ to ov] two hundr$ & eighte5 million doll>s4 ,orig9 & ,v>ieties ( ,silk4--,silk has be5 def9$ z a 8smoo?1 lu/r\s1 ela/ic fibre ( small diamet] & ( animal orig940 ,z is well kn[n1 ord9>y comm]cial silk is secret$ or 8spun0 by ! silkworm1 ! cat]pill> =m ( a mo? kn[n z ,bombyx ,mori1 ! mo? ( ! mulb]ry tree4 ,^! silkworms h be5 cultivat$ = ?\s&s ( ye>s1 b !re exi/ 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w1 notably 9 ,india & ,japan1 wild or uncultivat$ silkworms1 d]iv$ f ne>ly relat$1 b n id5tical1 families ( mo?s1 & ^: silk is collect$ 9 ! =e/s by ! natives1 =m+ :at is kn[n 9 comm]ce z wild or tussah silk4 ,( c\rse1 ! silk f silkworms1 cultivat$ & wild1 is ! only "o yet produc$ on a comm]cial scale4 ,b silk c also be obta9$ f o!r animals1 notably f spid]s & f a peculi> %ellfi%1 ! p9na1 f\nd 9 ! wat]s ( ! ,m$it]ranean4 ,silk f ! silkworm c be divid$ into two classes1 accord+ to :e!r ! silkworms are ! cultivat$ or ! wild v>ieties4 ,9 ea* case ! silk is produc$ by ! cat]pill> sp9n+ a cov]+ or %r\d1 ! s-call$ cocoon1 ar\nd itself to protect x :5 9 ! =m ( ! *rysalis or pupa1 await+ its trans=mation into ! mo?4 ,! ord9>y or cultivat$ silk ( comm]ce comes f worms f$ almo/ exclusively ^u ! leaves ( ! :ite mulb]ry tree1 & _c be produc$ successfully )\t t p>ticul> plant4 ,! some:at simil> worms t produce ! wild or tussah silks live ^u ! leaves ( ! oak1 elm1 ailan?us1 ca/or oil plant1 & o!rs4 ,:ile ! two v>ieties resemble ea* o!r greatly 9 _! *emical prop]ties1 !y c always be di/+ui%$1 because cultivat$ silk is mu* m lu/r\s ?an ! o!r1 b is decid$ly less /rong4 ,tussah ,silk1 ,pongee1 ,%antung4--,! tussah silks1 :5 wov51 are commonly kn[n "u ! g5]al "n ( pongee4 ,( late ye>s ?is "n has be5 appli$ to imitation goods possess+ ! *>act]i/ic dull color1 & ev5 ! feel ( ! real article1 b f> less /rong4 ,^! are g5]ally made out ( spun silk1 d]iv$ f 8,%appe10 i4e41 ! by-products ( ! silk indu/ry1 spoilt cocoons1 wa/e f ! sp9n+ ma*9es & ! dyeh\ses1 & ! l--silk1 to be sure1 b silk ( v inf]ior quality4 ,accord+ly1 x is n[ cu/om>y to call real pongee by ! "n ,%antung1 aft] ! ,*9ese prov9ce f :i* mu* ( ! wild silk is br\ght4 ,%antung1 or true pongee1 c be readily di/+ui%$ f ! imitation by exam9ation ( ! ?reads1 bo? w>p & fill+4 ,^! %\ld be v long1 & loosely spun or r 8?r[n10 :]eas ! imitation ?reads are spun toge!r tightly1 f fibres ( _m diff]5t l5g?s1 g5]ally q %ort4 ,prep>+ ,silk = ,dye+4 ,reel+4--,all silk1 :e!r cultivat$ or wild1 comes orig9ally f ! cocoons1 :i* are1 z a rule1 ea* =m$ out ( a cont9u\s /r& or ?read wov5 by ! silkworm r\nd & r\nd its own body be=e x passes into ! *rysalis /ate4 ,^! cocoons are collect$1 c>efully dri$ to kill ! quiesc5t animal inside1 & !n1 9 due c\rse ( "t1 !y are plac$ 9 bas9s ( w>m wat] :i* s(t5s ! gum :i* b9ds ! cocoon ?reads toge!r1 & ! sep>ate f9e ?reads f sev]al cocoons are pick$ up by bru%+1 & are comb9$ into "o :i* is reel$ (f on ma*9es4 ,! silk ?us obta9$ is made up into hanks & bundles1 & con/itutes ! raw silk ( comm]ce4 ,raw ,silk4--,! raw silk is v diff]5t 9 appe>ance & texture to ! f9i%$ silk t we are accu/om$ to4 ,x is )\t lu/re1 :ite1 yell[1 or ev51 9 ! case ( "s ,italian silks1 orange 9 color1 & q /iff :5 h&l$4 ,^! qualities are due to ! pres5ce ( f #be to #ce p] c5t4 ( gum1 :i* is insoluble 9 cold wat]1 b is s(t5$ by hot wat] & dissolves readily 9 a hot soap ba?4 ,?r[+4--,! ?reads ( ?is raw silk are f> too f9e & delicate to be fit = ! weav+ processes or ev5 = dye+4 ,s !y are comb9$ into co>s] & /rong] ?reads by be+ 8?r[n10 a process equival5t to ! sp9n+ process ( cotton1 l95 or wool4 ,9 ?r[+1 ! raw silk fibres are aga9 s(t5$ 9 hot wat]1 & are loosely spun or twi/$ toge!r :ile /ill /icky4 ,?ree1 f\r1 or five ?reads ( raw silk are usually comb9$ to =m "o /r& ( ?r[n silk1 v>y+1 ( c\rse1 ) ! quality ( ! orig9al silk & ! objects = :i* ! ?r[n silk is to be us$1 :5 wov54 ,= in/ance1 silk us$ = fill+--8tram10 z x is call$ 9 ! trade--is usually ?ick] & s(t]1 & less /rong ?an ! w>p1 or 8organz9e10 & !re=e is usually built up1 by ! 8?r[/]10 f _m ?reads ( less valuable raw silk1 loosely twi/$1 :ile ! organz9e1 us$ = w>p1 is g5]ally ( ! be/ & /ronge/ available mat]ial1 ?r[n 9 f9] /r&s out ( few] ?reads ( raw silk1 twi/$ m tightly4 ,x mu/ always be rememb]$ t ! ske9 silk is ?r[n f v long cont9u\s ?reads ( raw silk1 full ( gum1 :]eas spun silk1 :i* is be+ us$ m & m e ye>1 is made f %ort l5g?s ( wa/e & scrap silk1 held toge!r n by gum1 b by tight twi/+ & sp9n+1 j l cotton or l954 ,/ripp+ or ,degumm+4--,?is ?r[n silk mu/ !n be prep>$ = ! dye+ by gett+ rid ( ! gum1 :i* n only makes ! silk /iff & de/roys its lu/re1 b :i* also w\ld int]f]e ) ! smoo?1 ev5 dye+ ( ! fibres !mselves4 ,= ?is purpose ! silk1 9 ske9s1 is ?or\ghly wa%$1 or 8/ripp$10 by soak+ 9 two or ?ree successive ba?s ( hot1 /rong1 neutral soap solutions4 ,9 ! dyeh\ses ,ca/ile 7olive oil7 soap is inv>iably us$ = ?is purpose1 &1 :ile made ( *eap grades ( olive oil1 x is always1 9 good dyeh\ses1 ( excell5t quality1 = ! pres5ce ( ev5 m9ute am\nts ( free alkali 9 ^! ba?s is liable to greatly injure & 8t5d]0 ! silk4 ,boil$-(f ,liquor4--,! soap solution f ^! /ripp+ ba?s is n ?r[n away 9 ! dyeh\ses1 b is c>efully /or$ z a valuable reag5t4 ,"u ! "n ( 8boil$-(f liquor0 x is almo/ exclusively us$1 by ! dy]s1 = color dye+4 ,x is n (t5 us$ 9 black dye+1 & !re=e1 9 a dyeh\se1 ! pres5ce ( a l>ge & well-patroniz$ black dep>tm5t is consid]$ ( great importance z provid+ ! color dy] ) an abundant supply ( boil$-(f liquor4 ,! /ripp$ or degumm$ silk is n[ ready = weav+ directly1 ! result+ :ite clo? be+ sometimes f9i%$ & sold z su*1 & sometimes 8dy$ 9 ! piece40 ,9 mo/ cases1 h[ev]1 ! /ripp$ silk is weight$1 dy$1 & f9i%$ 89 ! ske9s10 be=e weav+4 ,piece ,dye+4--,9 dye+ by ! piece1 ! /ripp$ silk is pass$ ?r\gh a weak acid ba?1 usually acetic1 & !n wov5 into goods ( ! desir$ quality4 ,^! goods are !n dy$ 9 ! piece by be+ run ?r\gh ! dye-ba? until !y are ( ! prop] %ade4 ,! dye-ba? 7= colors7 is made by /irr+ ! prop] quantity ( ,acid dye/uffs into a hot ba? ( boil$-(f liquor 7! ba? 9 :i* ! silk has be5 /ripp$71 :i* is fa9tly acidifi$1 or 8brok510 z ! te*nical phrase goes1 by ! addition ( "s sulphuric acid4 ,?is boil$-(f liquor has ! prop]ty ( lay+ ! dyes on ! silk ev5ly & ?or\ghly1 & is bett] = t purpose ?an any o!r m$ium4 ,= amateur "w1 or :]e boil$-(f liquor _c be obta9$1 v fair results c be obta9$ ) a /rong ba? ( olive oil soap 7,ca/ile or ,m>seilles71 8brok50 ) weak acid1 g5]ally dilute sulphuric acid4 ,! t]m 8break+0 ! soap ba? is v significant4 ,! acid %\ld be add$ drop by drop to ! fro?+ soap ba? until ! bubbles disappe> & a ?9 iridesc5t film ( fatty acid rises to ! top ( ! liquid4 ,aft] ! piece goods are br\ght to ! prop] %ade1 !y are f9i%$1 usually by c>efully r9s+ 9 wat] to take away all traces ( free acid1 !n by pass+ ?r\gh a cold soap ba?1 (t5 ) a little olive oil emulsifi$ 9 x1 to increase ! lu/re2 f9ally1 ?r\gh a ba? ( weak organic acid1 l acetic acid1 to develop ! s-call$ 8scroop0 or 8feel0 ( ! silk4 ,:5 silk is wa%$ 9 soap1 or is dipp$ 9 ev5 a weak ba? ( alkali1 x becomes s(t & clammy to ! t\*1 & has no 8life0 or 8snap0 to x :5 dry4 ,! passage ?r\gh a ba? ( weak acid develops ! *>act]i/ic /iffness ( ! silk fibre1 & causes x to give its peculi> ru/l+ s\nd :5 press$4 ,ske9 ,dye+4--,:5 weight+ or adult]ation is n employ$1 i4e41 9 ! s-call$ 8pure dye0 process1 ! dye+ ( ske9 silk resembles ! piece dye+ describ$4 ,! degumm$ silk is imm]s$ 9 a dye-ba? conta9+ ! dye/uffs 7,acid colors7 dissolv$ 9 boil$-(f liquor1 brok5 ) dilute sulphuric acid4 ,! ba? is heat$ ne>ly to ! boil+ po9t1 & ! silk turn$ 9 x until ! desir$ %ade is produc$4 ,x is !n tak5 out1 wa%$ ?or\ghly 9 wat] to remove ! la/ traces ( acid1 & !n bright5$ by pass+ ?r\gh a soap ba? ) "s oil1 & lat] ?r\gh a ba? ( acetic acid to develop ! 8scroop40 ,dry+4--,an important "p ( ! process is ! f9al dry+ & f9i%+4 ,! dry+ %\ld be done sl[ly & c>efully1 & n proce$ too f>1 or ! silk w be brittle4 ,z is well kn[n to dy]s1 silk has ! p[] ( absorb+ #be or #cj ( its weight ( wat] )\t becom+ p]ceptibly damp to ! h&1 & ?is moi/ure1 :5 n c>ri$ too f>1 is ( actual b5efit to ! mat]ial1 mak+ x /rong] & m ela/ic4 ,?is prop]ty is (t5 made use ( by ! hone/ 787 dy] :51 9 case "s ( ! silk 9 a lot has be5 spoil$ by accid5t or c>elessness1 he makes up ! diff]5ce 9 weight by ! lib]al use ( ! wat]+ pot4 ,f9i%+4--,?is process is p]haps ! mo/ difficult & te*nical ( all1 = ! value ( ! f9i%$ product dep5ds v l>gely on x1 & x is almo/ impossible = an amateur to accompli% x4 ,! ske9s1 aft] dry+1 are hung on a heavy poli%$ wood5 b> &1 ) a smoo? wood5 /ick1 are %ak5 out1 /raight5$1 pull$1 twi/$1 & work$ until ! fibres are all p>allel1 ! k9ks tak5 out1 any weak or injur$ portion cut out1 & ! :ole ske9 has acquir$ ! prop] am\nt ( lu/re4 ,sometimes1 = specially brilliant fabrics1 ! ske9s are 8lu/r$0 by ma*9]y2 ?is is ! s-call$ 8metallic lu/r+0 :5 ! silk1 g5]ally envelop$ 9 /eam s z to be bo? hot & damp1 is pull$ out betwe5 two /eel arms until x has be5 /ret*$ a consid]able p]c5tage ( its orig9al l5g?4 ,?is und\bt$ly less5s ! /r5g? ( ! fibre consid]ably & dim9i%es its ela/icity1 b "u ?is /ra9 ea* fibre is /ret*$ out p]fectly smoo? & ?us becomes mu* m brilliant & lu/r\s4 ,dye+ ,wild ,silks4--,x has be5 f\nd difficult to h&le satisfactorily ! diff]5t sorts ( wild silks 9 ! factory4 ,! blea*+ ( !m has be5 v tr\blesome1 al?\gh ( late ye>s ! problem has be5 solv$ pretty well4 ,& ! ord9>y process = dye+ silk ) ,acid dyes 9 a brok5 soap1 or boil$-(f liquor1 ba? is1 = full deep %ades at any rate1 n always satisfactory4 ,9 consequ5ce mo/ ( ! g5u9e pongee or ,%antung clo? is sold 9 ! natural unblea*$ color1 a pleasant %ade ( tan1 or else 9 light %ades4 ,p]haps ! be/ results 9 dye+ pongee silk full1 deep1 ev5 %ades are obta9$ by mordant+ ! mat]ial ) tann9 & t>t> emetic1 j z cotton is mordant$ be=e dye+ x ) ,basic colors1 & !n us+ 9 ! dye-ba? "o or ! o!r ( ! s-call$ 8,janus0 colors1--a gr\p ( colors on ! bord] l9e betwe5 ,basic & ,acid1 ( :i* ! be/ are ,janus ,yell[ ,g1 ,janus ,yell[ ,r1 ,janus ,r$ ,b1 & ,janus ,black #a 7,metz74 ,?is process1 h[ev]1 is too complicat$ = ! unpr(essional dy] to use ) mu* success4 ,= all b ! v full %ades ! craftsman is advis$ to use ! ,acid colors1 z1 = in/ance1 "s ( ! select$ colors ( ! diff]5t h\ses1 li/$ 9 ,*apt] ,,vii1 9 a ba? acidifi$ ) acetic acid1 & )\t ! use ( soap4 ,= d>k dull %ades ! ,sulphur colors c be us$1 especially if "s c>e is tak5 to r$uce ! alkal9ity ( ! ba? by neutraliz+ or ne>ly neutraliz+ ! sodium sulphide ) a little acid sodium sulphite4 ,if ! desir$ %ade is s d>k z to necessitate heat+ & dye-ba?1 x is also advisable to add a little gelat94 ,= full %ades ( r bright] quality ! ,vat dyes may be employ$1 also ) precautions aga9/ ! t5d]+ action ( ! cau/ic alkali ^u ! fibre4 ,be=e1 h[ev]1 />t+ 9 to dye a piece ( pongee on ! assumption t x is made f tussah silk1 x is v advisable to exam9e x c>efully1 pick+ out ! individual ?reads & untwi/+ !m1 & to make a few dye+ te/s ^u small samples4 ,= a l>ge proportion ( s-call$ pongee1 :i* 9 color1 lu/re1 feel1 & g5]al appe>ance resembles ! g5u9e ,%antung v closely1 is simply made f spun or wa/e silk1 & c be dy$ l ord9>y silk4 ,acid ,dyes1 to be us$ on ,silk4--,any ( ! dye/uffs m5tion$ 9 ! li/s on page #abg1 z suitable = wool1 c be us$ successfully = silk dye+4 ,^! colors h all be5 select$ z unusually fa/ to light &1 9 ?is respect1 are to be classifi$ z 8practically all ( ! fir/ class10 i4e41 z absolutely satisfactory aga9/ ! action ( sunlight4 ,b1 = a valuable & comp>atively fragile mat]ial l silk1 x is q all[able to use colors = special %ades :i* are less fa/ to sunlight1 if !y possess o!r valuable qualities4 ,su*1 = in/ance1 are ! two r$ dye/uffs1 ,fa/ ,acid ,eos9e ,g 7,metz7 & ,fa/ ,acid ,phlox9e 7,metz71 :i* belong to ! gr\p ( s-call$ ,eos9e or ,fluorescen dye/uffs mo/ ( :i*1 :ile v beautiful1 are extremely fugitive4 ,^! two dyes1 :i* give %ades ( p9k & r$ ) yell[ & blue fluoresc5ce1 respectively1 are consid]ably m fa/ ?an ! re/ ( _! gr\p1 & w rank 9 ! ?ird class1 if n at ! foot ( ! second class1 z reg>ds light-fa/ness4 ,) reg>d to fa/ness to wa%+1 x mu/ be rememb]$ t ^! ,acid dyes are n fa/ at all1 :5 dy$ on silk 9 a brok5 soap ba?4 ,!y may /& v light wa%+ 9 a cold soap ba?1 b 9 boil+ soapsuds w /rip completely4 ,?is is important = ! amateur1 & inde$1 = ! pr(essional dy]1 = :om a dy$ silk1 ei!r ske9 or 9 ! piece1 has come out unsatisfactorily--unev5 or spott$1 or too d>k 9 %ade--= x is possible1 if ! silk is ( good quality1 to clean (f ! color completely by boil+ soapsuds1 )\t injur+ ! goods4 ,if ! tr\ble is unev5ness1 :ile ! %ade is satisfactory1 ! color c be dissolv$ (f 9 ! boil+ soap ba? & !n1 on break+ ! ba? ) a little acid1 ! same dye c be laid "r on aga91 x is to be hop$ ?is "t 9 a satisfactory mann]4 ,! "q ( dye+ silk fa/ to wa%+1 & also ( dye+ silk black1 w be dealt ) 9 ! next *apt]4 ,,*apt] ,,xii ,,silk--,,ii ,,black ,,dye+ ,,( ,,silk4 ,,weight+ ,,& ,,adult]ation ,,( ,,silk4 ,,dye+ ,,silk ,,) ,,colors ,,fa/ ,,to ,,wa%+ ,! dye+ process describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt]1 :ile well suit$ = dye+ silk bright & lu/r\s colors1 is n s well adapt$ to dye+ x black4 ,to be sure1 !re are sev]al good fa/ acid blacks1 su* z ,silk ,pat5t ,black1 #b,r1 ,kalle1 or ,neutral ,wool ,black1 ,b1 ,cassella1 or ,ca%m]e ,black1 #c;,,bn1 ,elb]feld1 or ,amido ,black1 #djbd1 ,metz1 :i*1 dy$ 9 full %ades 9 a brok5 ba? ( soap or boil$-(f liquor1 w give fairly good results4 ,b ! be/ ( ^! are n always q satisfactory1 ! result+ color g5]ally %[+ a t5d5cy to be a deep full grey r ?an a p]fectly true lu/r\s black4 ,salt ,colors4--,silk may also be dy$ black ) "s ( ! good ,salt colors--b unless ! dy] takes ! tr\ble to aft]-treat ! goods by ! tr\blesome process ( diazotiz+ & develop+1 ! results are no bett]1 if inde$ z good z ^? result+ f ! ,acid blacks m5tion$ above4 ,sulphur ,colors4--,^! h v (t5 be5 tri$ on silk )\t mu* success1 because = d>k colors l blacks1 x is necess>y to boil ! goods 9 ! dye-liquor = "s "t & to h ! latt] v conc5trat$4 ,un=tunately ! sodium sulphide1 necess>y = dissolv+ ! sulphur dyes1 is a p[]ful alkali1 & h5ce readily attacks an animal fibre1 l silk4 ,x is possible1 h[ev]1 by ! abundant use ( glucose 7,k>o syrup1 etc47 to greatly protect ! silk f ?is t5d]+ action4 ,x is also possible = a dy] fairly well tra9$ 9 *emi/ry1 to v c>efully neutralize ! dye-ba? by ! cauti\s addition ( acid sodium sulphite1 until ! dye-liquor is no long] alkal9e & yet ! dye/uff is n precipitat$4 ,?is process1 h[ev]1 is h>dly fitt$ = an amateur1 & has n prov$ v successful ev5 among ! pr(essionals4 ,logwood ,blacks4--,ne>ly all pr(essional dy]s cont9ue to use ! old vegetable dye/uff1 logwood1 ab\t :i* "s in=mation 0 giv5 9 ! fir/ *apt]4 ,to dye ) ?is x is cu/om>y to use "o ( ! _m good logwood extracts on ! m>ket4 ,great c>e mu/ be tak5 9 ! prop] mordant+ ( ! silk be=e x goes into ! ba?4 ,= ?is purpose ! silk is impregnat$ fir/ ) iron salts1 & lat] ) tann91 & 9 "s processes1 ) salts ( *romium or ( t91 be=e ent]+ ! logwood ba?4 ,9 all cases1 !re=e1 silk dy$ black ) logwood conta9s a c]ta9 am\nt1 say #ae to #bj ( its weight1 or #b-c ounces to ! p\nd1 ( =eign +r$i5ts4 ,:5 c>efully done ?is does n injure ! mat]ial at all1 & ! 8pure dy$0 logwood blacks are p]fectly satisfactory bo? = %ade1 lu/re1 & durability4 ,,weight+ ,,( ,,silk ,?is mod]ate increase ( weight1 h[ev]1 :i* is h>dly en\gh to replace ! weight ( ! gum lo/ 9 ! /ripp+ process1 0 f> f satisfy+ ! dem&s ( ! manufactur] = a *eap] raw mat]ial4 ,& accord+ly bo? dy] & dye+ *emi/ h exhau/$ all _! en]gies & skill 9 try+ to increase ?is p]c5tage ( *eap =eign matt] 9 ! f9i%$ silk1 to ! utmo/ limit ( :at ! m>ket w /&4 ,! fir/ ef=ts 9 ?is direction 7 bas$ ^u ! sav+ ( "s or1 inde$1 ne>ly all1 ( ! gum :i* is wa/$ 9 ! /ripp+ or degumm+ process previ\sly describ$4 ,?is gum1 :i* am\nts to f #bj to #ce p] c5t4 ( ! raw silk1 makes ! silk /iff 9 texture & dull 9 color & m difficult to dye4 ,accord+ly1 9 =m] ye>s1 x 0 inv>iably wa%$ out ( ! silk ) ! greate/ c>e be=e any attempt 0 made to dye x4 ,b by modify+ ! dye+1 & especially ! f9i%+ process1 x 0 f\nd possible to produce ! s-call$ 8s\ples0--i4e41 silks ) little or no lu/re1 b ) ! *>act]i/ic 8scroop0 or 8feel0--capable ( replac+ bright silk z a fill+ 9 _m fabrics & yet conta9+ almo/ all ! natural gum left 9 ! fibre4 ,! black silks 7 !n attack$ & an elaborate sy/em ( mordant+ 0 introduc$ be=e ! dye+ prop] began4 ,= in/ance1 ! silk c be /eep$ alt]nately 9 "o solution aft] ano!r1 fir/ ( iron salts & !n ( f]rocyanide ( pota%1 ?us =m+ ,prussian blue 9 ! fibre4 ,!n ! excess ( iron c be conv]t$ by imm]sion 9 tann9 solutions1 su* z ,gambi] or ,cut*1 into black tannate ( iron1 or ink1 & f9ally1 aft] p]haps a light ba? 9 *romium salts1 ! real black color is br\ght out by boil+ 9 logwood extract4 ,! silk is !n bright5$ by boil+ ) good neutral ,ca/ile soap1 is %ad$1 if necess>y1 by dye+ ) ei!r an ,acid or ,basic dye 9 a weak ba?1 &1 aft] dry+ & f9i%+1 ! f9i%$ product may easily weigh two or ev5 ?ree times z mu* z ! orig9al raw silk1 & /ill reta9 its /r5g?1 lu/re1 & ela/icity4 ,t9 ,weight+4--,! weight+ ( color$ & bright silks did n proce$ s rapidly1 & x 0 n mu* m ?an t5 ye>s ago t1 by accid5t1 "s ,fr5* dy]s discov]$ t by imm]sion 9 a /rong ba? ( t9 *loride 7/annic *loride acidifi$ ) "s hydro*loric acid7 ! silk fibre w\ld absorb a l>ge p]c5tage ( t9 salts )\t necess>ily los+ lu/re1 dye+ capacity1 or ev5 /r5g?4 ,?is at fir/ 0 kept a secret1 b its use gradually spread1 until n[ x is a v poor silk dy] :o _c weight 8 silk #ajj or #aej p] c5t4 )\t spoil+ its imm$iate comm]cial value4 ,)\t go+ into unnecess>y details1 ! process is some:at z foll[s3 ,! silk1 aft] be+ degumm$ & ?or\ghly wa%$ free ( soap1 is plung$ into a ba? ( t9 *loride & kept !re = "s h\rs4 ,x is !n tak5 out & ! loose t9 salts are wa%$ (f 9 a tank ( wat] 7te*nically call$ a box71 or 9 a wa%+ ma*9e4 ,to fur!r 8set0 ! t91 ! silk is !n plac$ = a %ort "t 9 a solution ( phosphate ( soda & aga9 wa%$ ?or\ghly4 ,x has n[ ga9$ f #ae to #be p] c5t ( its orig9al weight 7#b to #d ounces to ! p\nd ( raw silk74 ,if fur!r weight+ is desir$1 ?is treatm5t1 fir/ 9 t9 *loride & !n 9 phosphate ( soda1 c be repeat$ ?ree or f\r up to five or ev5 six times1 increas+ ! weight ) ea* imm]sion4 ,!n a ba? is usually giv5 ( silicate ( soda1 :i* adds a little weight1 to ( an ounce1 &1 x is claim$1 b5efits ! lu/re & /r5g? ( ! goods4 ,!n1 aft] a f9al wa%+1 ! silk is ready = ! dye-ba?4 ,! weight$ goods are dy$1 dri$1 & f9i%$ ab\t ! same z ) ! 8pure dye0 process1 & ! pr\d dy] c rejoice at return+ to ! hone/ manufactur] f #aej to #bej p\nds ( f9i%$ silk = e #ajj p\nds ( raw silk 7conta9+1 by ! way1 #be to #cj p\nds ( gum7 :i* 0 s5t 9 to ! dyeh\se6 ,?is 8t9-weigh+0 process is also appli$ to black dye+1 & enables ! black dy] to build up 8 weight ) t9 salts in/ead ( limit+ him to iron1 *romium1 f]rocyanide ( pota%1 tann91 & logwood4 ,prop]ties ( ,weight$ ,silk4--,x is sc>cely necess>y to po9t out t silk1 weight$ to ! extreme limit1 is h>dly to be consid]$ z ! mo/ durable & tru/wor?y ( fabrics1 ev5 :5 dy$ by ! mo/ exp]t workm54 ,& :5 c>elessly prep>$ heavily weight$ silk is an abom9ation1 liable to crack & we> away ) ! lea/ provocation4 ,x may be wor? rem9d+ "s ( my fair read]s t ! old te/ ( a silk taffeta1 8s ?ick & /iff t x w /& ( itself10 is n[adays any?+ b a pro( ( good quality4 ,"o or two manufactur]s 9 ?is c\ntry a few ye>s ago tri$ to revive ! almo/ =gott5 art ( mak+ & sell+ pure-dy$ goods1 & "o tr\ble !y exp]i5c$ 9 dispos+ ( _! products1 outside ! high price1 0 ! criticism t _! silk felt s light & ?94 ,preval5ce ( ,weight$ ,silk4--,at pres5t x is almo/ impossible1 at lea/ 9 ,new ,york1 to buy pure-dy$ heavy silks4 ,! writ]1 at any rate1 has tri$ dilig5tly1 dur+ ! la/ ye> or two1 to f9d = "s special exp]im5ts a piece ( :ite taffeta :i* 0 n m>k$ly weight$4 ,aft] visit+ dep>tm5t /ores & ! v be/ dry-goods /ores 9 ! city1 at all ( :i* he 0 in=m$ t no su* mat]ial n[ exi/$1 ! be/ t c\ld be obta9$ 0 "o make ( silk :]e ! organz9e or w>p 0 fairly pure1 ! tram be+ well weight$4 ,light-weight ,japanese & ,*9ese silks1 h[ev]1 undy$ or dy$ 9 ! piece1 c /ill be procur$ ) little or no weight+4 ,te/s = ,weight$ ,silk4--,?is silk may be id5tifi$ by a v simple te/4 ,pure-dy$ silk1 :5 dry1 is easily inflammable4 ,:5 t\*$ ) a light$ mat* x cat*es fire at once1 8c>ries ! flame0 well1 especially if 9 ! =m ( ?read2 &1 if foll[$ up ) a flame1 x w be=e long burn away completely1 leav+ little or no a% or residue4 ,on ! o!r h&1 weight$ silk1 especially :5 ! add$ m9]al matt] am\nts to #be or ov]1 is q h>d to burn4 ,if x cat*es fire at all1 x j fla%es up = a mom5t & !n ! flame dies "r out4 ,& :5 p]si/5tly heat$1 until ! organic matt] is all burnt away1 x /ill leaves a v consid]able residue ( a%4 ,:5 ?is te/ is to be made on unwov5 or ske9 silk1 x is en\gh to take two or ?ree ?reads1 five or six in*es long1 & to light !m 9 ! flame ( a mat*4 ,= piece goods x is be/ to pick out ! ?reads c>efully1 ) a p9 or f9e knife blade1 sep>at+ ! tram f ! organz9e1 & !n1 ) a mat*1 to te/ ea* ( ^! 9 turn4 ,a v little practice w enable ! mo/ inexp]i5c$ /ud5t to make ?is te/ satisfactorily4 ,( c\rse1 = an accurate det]m9ation ( ! p]c5tage ( weight+ conta9$ 9 a giv5 sample ( silk1 x is necess>y to resort to delicate *emical analyses4 ,b = all ord9>y purposes ?is simple flame te/ is q suffici5t4 ,,dye+ ,,silk ,,) ,,colors ,,fa/ ,,to ,,wa%+ ,z a rule ! me?od previ\sly describ$ ( dye+ silk ) ,acid dyes 9 a brok5 ba? ( soap1 or bett]1 ( boil$-(f liquor1 w be f\nd p]fectly satisfactory4 ,! %ades are easily obta9$1 ! colors are brilliant1 &1 if ! "r dyes are us$1 exce$+ly fa/ to light1 & ! mat]ial1 if prop]ly r9s$1 suff]s no det]ioration4 ,on ! o!r h& ^! colors are n1 9 ! slighte/ degree1 fa/ to wa%+4 ,! dy$ goods c be clean$ ) gasol9e & ! l1 b :5 pass$ ?r\gh a lukew>m ba? ( soap & wat] !y ble$ badly1 & 9 boil+ soapsuds ! color c be completely /ripp$ f !m4 ,9 mo/ cases ?is is n a s]i\s objection1 = a p]son :o w s5d a h&some h&-dy$ silk sc>f or piece ( embroid]y to ! family wa%tub is entitl$ to scant sympa?y if ! results are disa/r\s4 ,b occasionally x is important to h colors on silk :i* c be gu>ante$ aga9/ mod]ate or ev5 aga9/1 sev]e1 wa%+4 ,fa/ ,colors on ,silk4--,!re are two grades ( fa/ness kn[n to ! dy]s--8fa/0 & 8embroid]y fa/40 8,fa/0 means simply t ! silk is to be dy$ fa/ to ord9>y1 c>eful h&l+ s t ! colors w n ble$ or run 9 a w>m or ev5 hot soap ba?1 b does n gu>antee !m aga9/ e possible maltreatm5t4 ,! be/ way ( do+ ?is is by ! use ( ! ,direct ,cotton or ,salt dyes1 describ$ 9 ,*apt] ,,iii1 :i*1 x w be rememb]$1 only dye wool or silk at a high temp]ature1 at or ne> ! boil+ po9t &1 pref]ably1 9 an acid ba?1 b1 :5 once on1 are v h>d to dislodge4 ,! select$ ones are v fa/ to light & pres5t a great range ( bright1 attractive colors1 :i* are ne>ly1 if n q1 z brilliant z ^? produc$ by ! ,acid dyes4 ,!y are appli$ 9 a boil+ ba? conta9+ a little acetic acid1 & a good deal ( salt1 especially = full %ades4 ,= light] %ades1 ! pres5ce ( salt is h>dly necess>y4 ,! goods are to be f9i%$ j z ) ! ,acid dyes1 ) a soap ba? foll[$1 if ! scroop is desir$1 by a weak ba? ( acetic acid4 ,! results1 :5 c>efully done1 are v good4 ,!y possess1 h[ev]1 "o disadvantage = ! amateur dy]4 ,^! colors are q h>d to /rip1 & s1 ! desir$ effect mu/ be produc$ ! fir/ "t1 or n at all4 ,x is n possible to /rip an unsatisfactory %ade 9 a hot soap ba?1 & dye x ov] & ov] aga9 )\t injury1 z 9 ! case ) ,acid dyes4 ,!y are be/ /ripp$ by soak+ 9 a ba? ( sodium hydrosulphite1 & !n wa%+4 ,embroid]y ,fa/ ,colors4--,:ile ! above process gives %ades fa/ en\gh aga9/ all ord9>y wa%+1 x sometimes happ5s t silk mu/ be dy$ fa/ en\gh to )/& exactly ! same treatm5t t co>se cotton or l95 goods are subject$ to1 )\t ble$+ or /a9+4 ,! salt dyes are n q fa/ en\gh = ?is1 p>ticul>ly because1 n hav+ be5 conv]t$ 9 ! dye+ process into a special insoluble condition1 if !y %\ld be deta*$ f ! fibre by /rong or hot soap+1 !y w\ld be liable to /a9 ! neighbor+ tissues & n wa% (f q cle>4 ,"o ( ! h>de/ te/s t color$ silk is call$ ^u to /& is :51 9 small quantities1 x is us$ ) a l>ge am\nt ( :ite l95 or cotton goods4 ,?us1 = in/ance1 :5 monograms are embroid]$ 9 r$ or blue silk ^u :ite t[els or napk9s1 & ! latt] are scrubb$1 week aft] week1 9 ! regul> wa%1 ! color mu/ be fa/1 inde$1 n to %[ "s evid5ces ( runn+4 ,h5ce ! t]m 8embroid]y fa/ness0 z appli$ to ?is class ( dyes4 ,?anks1 also1 to ! amiable practice ( ! mod]n laundress ( light5+ h] labors by ! addition ( blea*+ p[d] & o!r /rong *emicals to ! wa%tub1 x is v important t a silk dy$ 8embroid]y fa/0 %\ld be able to )/& ! action ( ^! ag5ts z well z ( soap4 ,up to ! la/ few ye>s ^! colors 7 only obta9$ by ! use ( ! ,aliz>9e dye/uffs1 ! full ri* sc>let s (t5 us$ = ?is purpose be+ ! mod]n =m ( ! old1 madd]-dy$1 ,turkey r$ ( our =efa!rs4 ,b1 dur+ ! la/ few ye>s1 ! tr\blesome & t$i\s mordant+ processes necess>y = ! prop] developm5t ( color by ! ,aliz>9e dyes1 h be5 replac$1 = craftsm51 &1 inde$1 by mo/ pr(essional dy]s1 by ! mu* simpl] & %ort] processes ( vat dye+4 ,z long z ,indigo 0 ! sole repres5tative ( ! class1 x 0 ( v little use = silk dye+4 ,b s9ce ! introduction ( ! spl5did s]ies ( new vat dyes1 ! ,algol1 ,ciba1 ,hel9done1 ,indan?r5e1 & ,?io ,indigo colors1 :i*1 dy$ 9 a s+le ba?1 give a :ole range ( brilliant %ades1 wond]fully fa/ to light & to wa%+1 ! necessity = mordant colors has v l>gely disappe>$4 ,,dye+ ,,silk ,,) ,,vat ,,dyes ,x mu/ always be rememb]$ :5 work+ ) silk1 wool1 lea!r1 or any o!r animal mat]ial1 t su* mat]ials are extremely s5sitive to ! action ( alkalies1 especially :5 hot or cau/ic1 :ile !y are b slightly injur$1 if at all1 by ! action ( dilute acids4 ,= ?is reason x is always bett]1 :5ev] possible1 to dye silk ) ! ,acid dyes or ! ,salt dyes1 9 an acid or neutral ba?1 r ?an to use dye/uffs l ! ,vat dyes or ! ,sulphur colors1 :i* ne$ an alkal9e dye-liquor4 ,fur!rmore1 ! silk is likely to h a m brilliant lu/re :5 dy$ ) a color :i* fa/5s to x by *emical aff9ity1 f a solution1 r ?an "o :]e ! color is fix$ because ! oxyg5 ( ! atmosph]e *anges x into an insoluble p[d]1 :ile 9 ! pores ( ! silk4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 p]fectly possible to dye silk full %ades ) ! ,vat dyes & ev5--?\gh ?is is n (t5 advisable--) ! ,sulphur dyes1 by us+ "s simple precautions4 ,! be/ ,vat dyes = silk are ,indigo itself1 & its sub/itution products1 l ,brom-,indigo1 ,elb]feld1 or ! ,?io ,indigo dyes1 ,kalle1 or else ! r closely relat$ colors l ! ,hel9dones1 ,metz1 & ! ,ciba colors1 ,klip/e94 ,x is ( importance to use only ^? :i* are %[n 9 ! table on page #ajb1 z dye+ 9 a cold1 or at mo/1 a lukew>m ba?4 ,! dye-ba? %\ld be made ) a consid]able am\nt ( dye/uff1 s z to avoid ! necessity ( keep+ ! goods 9 x long4 ,& ! am\nt ( cau/ic alkali %\ld be kept z l[ z possible1 consi/5t ( c\rse ) dissolv+ ! r$uc$ dye/uff4 ,x has be5 f\nd 9 practice t ! pres5ce ( glue or gelat9e 9 ! ba?1 or ev5 ( glucose 7molasses1 corn syrup1 ,k>o syrup1 etc471 protects ! silk1 wool1 & o!r animal fibres greatly f ! action ( alkalies4 ,x %\ld1 !re=e1 be add$ 9 quantities ( two or ?ree l>ge tablespoonfuls to ! gallon ( dye-liquor4 ,! wet goods %\ld be imm]s$ 9 ! cold or lukew>m ba?1 & turn$ con/antly = a few m9utes only1 be=e tak+ !m out1 wr++ !m1 & hang+ !m up to oxidize4 ,z soon z ! color sets1 :i* is %[n g5]ally1 by ! *ange ( %ade & :i* nev] takes m ?an1 say1 tw5ty m9utes if ! mat]ials are well op5$ up1 ! goods %\ld be bright5$ 9 a hot ba? ( good1 neutral1 olive oil soap1 & !n f9i%$ z previ\sly describ$4 ,x w be rememb]$ t sev]al1 inde$ mo/ ( ! be/ ,vat colors d n develop _! f9al %ade at all1 until aft] ! soap+ process4 ,:5 c>efully done1 ?is process w give exce$+ly fa/ & q brilliant colors1 )\t injury to ! /r5g? ( ! goods4 ,comp>ative ,results ( ,vat ,dyes & ,sulphur ,dyes on ,silk4--,x is h>d to get full %ades ) ,sulphur colors because x is g5]ally necess>y to heat ! dye-ba?1 & ?is1 ow+ to ! p[]ful alkal9e prop]ties ( ! sodium sulphide1 is v injuri\s to ! silk4 ,besides ?is1 ! sulphur dyes are mu* less brilliant ?an ! ,vat dyes1 & h no good r$ or orange %ades 9 ! :ole class4 ,!y accord+ly %\ld n be us$1 except+ :]e no o!r are available1 or1 z w be describ$ 9 a lat] *apt]1 :5 do+ 8resi/ /5cill+0 on silk4 ,on ! o!r h&1 su* v unusual advantages d "s ( ^! new ,vat dyes possess1 = ! dye+ ( silk = special purposes1 t l>ge quantities ( ,hel9dones1 ,?io ,indigoes1 & o!r good specim5s ( ?is class are be+ sold1 at comp>atively v high prices1 to manufactur]s ( f9e %irt+s :]e ! patt]ns are made by weav+ f9e l9es or figures ( brightly dy$ silk into ! l95 or cotton fabric4 ,until ! introduction ( ^! dyes 9 ! la/ two or ?ree ye>s ^! %ades c\ld n h be5 produc$ fa/ en\gh = ?is purpose4 ,sulphur dyes c also be us$ on silk )\t injur+ ! goods1 by tak+ ! precautions describ$ e>li] 9 ?is *apt]4 ,! %ades1 h[ev]1 are quiet & dull1 z comp>$ to ^? produc$ by o!r classes ( dye/uffs2 & x is almo/1 if n q1 impossible to get a good full r$ &1 especially1 a good sc>let1 by us+ ^! colors4 ,silk prop]ly dy$ ) ,sulphur colors is extremely fa/ to wa%+4 ,b ^! dyes1 unlike ! be/ ,vat colors1 are z a rule q s5sitive to blea*+ ag5ts1 & !re=e are n s well adapt$ = g5]al use on 8embroid]y fa/0 silk4 ,,*apt] ,,xiii ,,imitation ,,& ,,artificial ,,silk ,ow+ to ! high price ( pure silk & ! bad we>+ qualities ( ! highly adult]at$ silks1 describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt]1 !re has be5 = a long "t a /rong dem& = a fabric :i* w\ld comb9e z f> z possible ! /r5g? & we>+ p[] ( ! "o1 ) ! *eap price ( ! o!r1 :ile /ill reta9+ ! lu/re & 8scroop0 & *>act]i/ic appe>ance ( bo?4 ,! dem& at pres5t is met1 & n s unsuccessfully1 fir/ by imitation silk1 ( :i* m]c]iz$ cotton is ! be/ example1 & second1 by ! v>i\s =ms ( artificial silk :i* dur+ ! la/ few ye>s h be5 introduc$ widely 9 bo? ,europe & our own c\ntry4 ,! competition ( ^! two classes ( products is n at all to be despis$4 ,_! quality is con/antly improv+1 _! price dim9i%+1 & _! production increas+ rapidly f ye> to ye>4 ,& if ! silk manufactur]s cont9ue to produce su* poor mat]ial 9 ! l9e ( weight$ silk fabrics z !y h 9 ! pa/1 x w be b a %ort "t be=e !y w f9d ! m>ket almo/ entirely divid$ betwe5 pure-dy$ silks1 on ! "o h&1 = exp5sive goods1 & "s ( ^! new products = *eap mat]ials4 ,,m]c]iz$ ,,cotton ,hi/ory & ,prep>ation4--,?is mat]ial 0 fir/ introduc$ z a sub/itute = silk "s t5 or twelve ye>s ago1 al?\gh ! process = mak+ x 0 inv5t$ ab\t #ahdj1 by a celebrat$ ,engli% dy]1 ,john ,m]c]4 ,he discov]$ t :5 cotton1 ei!r 9 clo? or y>n1 0 subject$ = a %ort "t to ! action ( /rong cau/ic alkali1 & !n ?or\ghly wa%$1 ! result+ mat]ial 0 mu* /rong] ?an be=e1 _h %runk v consid]ably1 & _h a mu* great] aff9ity = dye/uffs4 ,= in/ance1 dyes l ! ,basic colors1 :i* give b a tempor>y /a9 on ord9>y cotton1 w dye ) "s degree ( fa/ness cotton ?us treat$ ) alkali1 )\t ! use ( mordants4 ,m]c] pat5t$ 8 discov]y & made "s use ( x 9 calico pr9t+2 z1 = in/ance1 9 ! mak+ ( 8cr9kl$0 goods4 ,b ! process 0 ne>ly =gott5 until1 9 #ahhi1 x 0 discov]$ t1 by prop] treatm5t1 cotton c\ld by ?is means be made s lu/r\s z to comp>e n unfavorably ) silk4 ,to make ! cotton lu/r\s1 ! goods1 aft] dipp+ into ! /rong alkali1 are kept firmly /ret*$1 & _! /rong t5d5cy to %r9k resi/$1 until ! alkali has be5 ?or\ghly r9s$ (f & ! la/ traces neutraliz$ ) a little acid4 ,if ?is is done c>efully1 :5 f9ally dri$ ! cotton fibres w be f\nd drawn out smoo? & lu/r\s1 :ile /ill reta9+ _! new qualities ( /r5g? & increas$ dye+ p[]4 ,to get good results 9 ?is process ! mat]ials treat$1 :e!r 9 y>n or clo?1 mu/ be made ( ! v be/ & longe/ /apl$ cotton1 pref]ably ,egyptian1 & :5 well done ! results are extremely satisfactory4 ,! lu/re is n z good z ! v be/ silk1 b x is q well m>k$1 & = replac+ ! *eap grades ( heavily weight$ silks1 z1 = in/ance1 = und]we>1 l9+s1 etc41 ! m]c]iz$ goods are ( v great value1 ow+ to _! /r5g? & durability1 z well z _! *eapness4 ,dye+ ( ,m]c]iz$ ,cotton4--,cotton1 ?us treat$1 is dy$ 9 ! same way t ord9>y cotton is1 ) ! exception t x takes ! dyes m rapidly1 &1 z a rule1 gives deep] & m brilliant %ades ) ! same am\nt ( color+ matt]4 ,= special purposes x may be be/ to use ! ,sulphur or ! ,vat dyes1 b 9 g5]al ?is mat]ial is be/ dy$ ) ! ,salt dyes1 :i* are n only easy to apply1 b are fa/ to light1 v brilliant1 & on ^! goods1 at any rate1 v fairly fa/ to wa%+4 ,z be=e m5tion$1 ! fa/ness to bo? light & wa%+ may be consid]ably improv$ by aft] treatm5t ( ! dy$ goods1 i4e41 by pass+ !m ?r\gh a hot ba? conta9+ a tablespoonful ea* ( copp] sulphate1 potassium bi*romate1 & acetic acid to ! gallon ( wat]4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 w r>ely be f\nd necess>y1 provid$ ! select$ colors are us$1 & ! color has be5 appli$ at ! boil 9 a ba? conta9+ consid]able salt4 ,,artificial ,,silk ,hi/ory4--,! fam\s old ,fr5* *emi/1 ,raumur1 9 ! ye> #agcd1 sugge/$1 aft] a /udy ( ! silk worm1 & ( ! me?od by :i* x 8sp9s0 ! natural ?read1 t x might be possible to make a jelly-l sub/ance :i* c\ld be drawn out into a f9e ?read &1 coagulat+1 =m an artificial silk4 ,?is sugge/ion 0 fir/ act$ on1 9 a practical way1 9 ! ye> #ahee1 :5 ,&]m>s obta9$ "s curi\s results by dipp+ a ne$le or f9e metal rod into a ?9 visc\s solution kn[n z collodion1 & !n draw+ x out rapidly1 made f9e1 smoo? ?reads z ! mat]ial solidifi$4 ,?is collodion1 :i* = _m ye>s has be5 9 common use 9 m9or surg]y to pa9t on w\nds & cuts1 because x leaves a film ( artificial sk91 & 9 m rec5t times has be5 mu* us$ 9 photography1 is a solution ( gun cotton or nitro-cellulose 9 a mixture ( alcohol & e!r4 ,9 #ahhe ,c\nt ,hil>y de ,*>donnet made improvem5ts 9 ?is la/ process1 & produc$ successfully ! fir/ real artificial silk ?reads on a comm]cial scale4 ,*>donnet ,silk4--,he also us$ a ?ick collodion solution1 b in/ead ( draw+ x out he press$ x out ?r\gh f9e holes by us+ v great pressure4 ,z fa/ z ! gummy ?read exud$ x 0 pick$ up1 c>ri$ along into a dry+ room1 :]e ! alcohol & e!r c\ld escape 7to be cond5s$ lat] & us$ ov] aga971 & !n ! solid fibre 0 pass$ into a solution ( "s suitable r$uc+ ag5t1 su* z ammonium or sodium sulphydrate1 :i* conv]ts ! inflammable gun cotton into its orig9al condition ( cellulose4 ,^! result+ ?reads1 be+ smoo? & uni=m :5 prop]ly made1 h v great lu/re4 ,inde$1 !y are (t5 f> m brilliant ?an ! v be/ & f9e/ natural silk1 & c be dy$ & wov5 into beautiful fabrics4 ,?is discov]y ( ,*>donnet's 0 at once utiliz$1 & l>ge & fl\ri%+ factories ( ,*>donnet silk sprang up all ov] ,europe4 ,! fir/ l>ge factory1 :i* is /ill do+ a v pr(itable bus9ess1 0 at ,besanon1 9 ,france1 & lat] a l>ge factory 0 e/abli%$ at ,frank=t1 ,g]many4 ,pauly ,silk4--,! success ( ?is process ar\s$ ! int]e/ ( o!r *emi/s1 & be=e long sev]al rival processes came into exi/5ce1 also bas$ on ! use ( a visc\s solution ( a cellulose comp\nd4 ,"o company1 mak+ ! s-call$ ,pauly silk1 utiliz$ ! solv5t action ( an ammoniacal copp] solution ^u cellulose = _! />t+ po9t4 ,elb]feld ,silk1 ,glanz/(f4--,! ,f>b5fabrik5 von ,elb]feld1 fam\s manufactur]s ( dye/uffs1 took up ! manufacture ( silk f a solution ( a comp\nd ( cellulose ) acetic acid2 & ! ,elb]feld silk1 or1 z x is widely kn[n 9 ,g]many1 ,glanz/(f1 is e ye> becom+ a m & m important factor 9 ! silk bus9ess4 ,viscose ,silk4--,a /ill diff]5t process1 :i* dur+ ! pa/ two or ?ree ye>s has be5 successfully introduc$ into ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 dep5ds ^u ! curi\s sub/ance call$ ,viscose1 a ?ick1 /icky solution ( cellulose made by fir/ treat+ wood pulp1 cotton or o!r vegetable fibre ) /rong cau/ic soda & !n dissolv+ ! result+ product 9 c>bon disulphide4 ,?is ,viscose 0 fir/ introduc$ = _m diff]5t purposes4 ,! solv5t1 c>bon disulphide1 is v volatile1 & flies (f readily1 leav+ ! cellulose beh9d 9 ! =m ( a /iff jelly :i*1 on dry+1 becomes solid & /rong4 ,s ,viscose 0 us$ = wat]-pro(+ pap]1 etc41 = mak+ solid articles l piano keys & billi>d balls1 & ev5 = mak+ opaque patt]ns 9 calico pr9t+4 ,b its mo/ valuable application is = artificial silk4 ,x is press$ out ?r\gh f9e holes1 & ! ?read result+ quickly solidifies z ! solv5t evaporates1 & c be dri$ c>efully & work$ up on reels or bobb9s1 to be dy$ lat]4 ,prop]ties4--,artificial silk1 z a rule1 is a little /iff] ?an natural silk1 b has an exce$+ly f9e lu/re4 ,x _c be spun 9 z f9e ?reads z f9e1 natural silk1 b1 on ! o!r h&1 c be produc$ 9 ?ick1 smoo? ?reads :i*1 /a9$ z a rule black or d>k colors1 q replace horsehair = furniture cov]+s1 etc4 ,simil> products are made1 too1 by coat+ cotton ) a lay] ( artificial silk4 ,ano!r curi\s use ( ?is artificial silk process is :5 x is =m$ into /ill l>g] ?reads1 v lu/r\s & q /iff1 & us$ = plumes & aigrettes4 ,!y c be dy$ any color1 h excell5t lu/re1 & are extremely useful = mill9]y4 ,precautions ,necess>y 9 ,dye+4--,"o great drawback is common to all ^! diff]5t v>ieties ( artificial silk4 ,!y are q /rong1 al?\gh n p>ticul>ly ela/ic1 :5 dry1 b :5 wet lose _! /r5g? v m>k$ly4 ,inde$1 at "o "t x 0 f\nd extremely tr\blesome to dye !m1 z ! silk ske9 dy]s1 accu/om$ to "w & wr+ & /ret* _! silk1 ) impunity1 9 & out ( ! hot dye-ba?s1 w\ld try ! same treatm5t ) ?is new product1 & 9 consequ5ce ru9 e ske94 ,:5 ?or\ghly wet ?r\gh 9 a hot ba? ! ?read w s(t5 until a ske9 may h>dly be> its own weight4 ,accord+ly1 ! dye+ is always done z quickly z possible1 & g5]ally at a lukew>m or only mod]ately high temp]ature4 ,! ske9s %\ld be h&l$ z little z possible 9 ! dye-ba?1 &1 :5 tak5 out to wr+1 %\ld be r9s$ slightly to get rid ( extra color1 acid1 etc41 & !n c>efully dri$1 n by twi/+ on two /icks1 z is cu/om>y ) o!r mat]ials1 b by wrapp+ 9 *eese clo? or blott+ pap] & !n runn+ ! ske9s backw>d & =w>d ?r\gh ! clo!s wr+]4 ,te/s = ,artificial ,silk4--,x has be5 asc]ta9$ t all v>ieties ( artificial silk n[ on ! m>ket are made f "s =m ( cellulose4 ,ef=ts h be5 made to take ?ick jellies made f gelat9e or simil> animal comp\nds1 & make ?reads f !m1 coagulat+ !m lat] by treatm5t ) =maldehyde or simil> *emicals4 ,^! exp]im5ts h1 h[ev]1 n z yet prov$ successful4 ,accord+ly1 any te/ t w di/+ui% betwe5 a vegetable & an animal fibre w %[ :e!r a brilliant ?read or piece ( textiles conta9s natural silk or n4 ,! simple/ ( te/s is1 ( c\rse1 to burn a little ) a mat* or at a flame & see if !re results ! *>act]i/ic 8burnt fea!r smell0 ( *>r+ animal tissues4 ,?is odor accompanies ! natural silk4 ,! *emi/ w\ld probably make ! same te/ m accurately by heat+ a wad ( ! mat]ial 9 ! bottom ( a small te/ tube & notic+ :e!r ammonia 0 be+ evolv$1 & :e!r ! di/illate 0 alkal9e 9 reaction4 ,! ammonia & alkali result+ f ! nitrog5\s organic matt] is a c]ta9 indication ( animal matt]4 ,to di/+ui% betwe5 m]c]iz$ cotton & artificial silk1 x is g5]ally en\gh to soak ! samples = a %ort "t1 say a qu>t] ( an h\r1 9 boil+ wat] & te/ _! /r5g?4 ,m]c]iz$ cotton prop]ly made w\ld be j z /rong aft]w>d z be=e1 :ile ! artificial silk w\ld be s(t & weak1 if x w\ld n1 inde$1 break d[n completely4 ,besides ?is1 x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! m]c]iz$ cotton1 9 spite ( its lu/re1 is made up ( ?reads tightly spun toge!r f a l>ge numb] ( %ort fibres1 none ( :i* are ov] two in*es or s 9 l5g?1 :ile ! artificial silks are made up1 l ! natural silk1 ( long1 cont9u\s fibres twi/$ toge!r to =m ! y>n4 ,9 g5]al1 ^! artificial silks1 manufactur$ z !y are f wood pulp & o!r vegetable mat]ials1 are to be dy$ ) ! ,salt1 ,sulphur1 or ,vat dyes1 c>e always be+ tak5 to expose !m to ! action ( hot dye-liquors z %ort a "t z possible4 ,! ,salt dyes are less apt to int]f]e ) ! brilliant lu/re1 b ! ,sulphur & ,vat dyes h ! great advantage ( dye+ 9 a cold or lukew>m ba?1 )\t any loss 9 fa/ness4 ,! ,*>donnet silk has a special aff9ity = ! ,basic dyes1 & 9 ! trade is usually dy$ bo? light & d>k %ades ) ^! color+ matt]s1 )\t previ\s mordant+1 9 a slightly acid ba?4 ,?is practice1 h[ev]1 :ile simple & easy1 is n to be recomm5d$4 ,= ! ,basic dyes1 ) b few exceptions1 fugitive "u all circum/ances1 are p>ticul>ly s5sitive to light1 :5 dy$ 9 light %ades1 ^u su* a brilliant & almo/ transp>5t m$ium z ?is is4 ,on ! o!r h&1 articles made ( artificial silk1 be+ easily injur$ by ra91 are n s liable to be expos$ to ! op5 wea!r z "s o!r less delicate mat]ials4 ,! ,viscose & ,elb]feld silks 7,glanz/(f7 h less aff9ity = ! ,basic dyes1 & dye m readily ) ! ,salt & ,sulphur colors ?an ! ,*>donnet silk1 made f gun cotton4 ,b x is p]fectly possible to dye ! latt] also ) fa/ colors ( ! ,salt1 ,sulphur1 or ,vat classes1 provid+ l>ge am\nts ( dye/uff are us$ to br+ up ! %ade4 ,inde$ x is poor economy to be sp>+ ( ! color+ matt]1 :5 work+ ) any k9d ( artificial silk4 ,= spe$ is ess5tial1 & ! dy] :o lets 8 mat]ial rema9 long 9 ! dye-ba? is liable to get into difficulties4 ,! artificial silk1 aft] dye+1 %\ld be f9i%$ mu* l natural silk1 by r9s+ & !n pass+ ?r\gh a ba? conta9+ "s olive oil1 emulsifi$ 9 a weak ba? ( soda a%4 ,?is increases ! lu/re4 ,x %\ld also be dri$ at a fairly l[ temp]ature &1 :ile dry+1 kept /ret*$ out by hang+ a wood5 or glass rod 9 ! loop ( ! hang+ ske91 or "s simil> device1 tak+ c>e to avoid /ra9 great en\gh to pull ap>t ! weak5$ fibre4 ,:5 dye+ ?is mat]ial great c>e %\ld also be tak5 9 ty+ up ! individual ske9s & 9 h&l+ !m4 ,turn !m 9 ! dye-ba? z little z possible consi/5t ) ev5 dye+4 ,! ?reads1 unless v tightly spun1 are con/antly liable to come untwi/$1 & ! knots to untie1 caus+ mu* annoyance4 ,9 conclusion1 :5 c>efully made & dy$ ^! artificial silks furni% beautiful1 brilliant1 lu/r\s fibres1 :i* c be us$ to great effect 9 _m k9ds ( h&icraft "w4 ,!y c easily be procur$ ) m lu/re ?an ! v be/ natural silk1 b ev5 :5 dry are defici5t 9 ela/icity1 & to "s ext5t 9 /r5g?1 & :5 wet are v fragile4 ,! price is kept at a r high figure1 z a rule only f #be to #ej c5ts a p\nd less ?an t ( good natural silk4 ,b e ye> ! production is increas+1 new factories are spr++ up 9 e c\ntry1 & z !re is no limit to ! production except+ ! dem&1 x is probable t 9 a few ye>s1 ?anks to competition1 ! price w be dropp$ v consid]ably & ! :ole silk bus9ess w be revolutioniz$4 ,at pres5t x is e/imat$ t ! production ( ! artificial silk is n f> f "o-fif? t ( natural silk1 & ?is fraction is gett+ l>g] e mon?4 ,inde$1 ! rise ( ?is p>ticul> indu/ry may fairly be consid]$ z "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+1 mo/ useful1 & mo/ valuable contributions ( ! manufactur+ *emi/ dur+ ! la/ qu>t] c5tury4 ,,*apt] ,,xiv ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w ,hi!rto1 9 ?is book1 ! /ud5t has be5 in/ruct$ 9 ! g5]al art ( dye+ & color+ ! v>i\s fabrics1 bo? 9 ! y>n & 9 piece1 )\t any att5tion to ! subject ( color+ !m 9 patt]ns or designs4 ,! rema9+ *apt]s w be devot$ to v>i\s me?ods1 suitable = craftsm51 by :i* ! dye/uffs c be appli$ s z to give m or less def9ite patt]ns to ! objects to be color$4 ,?is art1 9 its g5]al pr9ciples1 0 work$ out 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! _w at v e>ly p]iods 9 _! civilization4 ,9 a great _m cases color$ designs 9 textiles 7 =m$1 9 ! process ( weav+1 by incorporat+ y>ns ( diff]5t colors 9 c]ta9 portions ( ! fabric4 ,b along ) ?is1 at a v e>ly /age 9 ! textile indu/ry1 !re 0 develop$ ! art ( mak+ patt]ns1 regul> or irregul>1 by ! action ( dye/uffs ^u previ\sly wov5 goods4 ,9 g5]al !re are ?ree me?ods = do+ ?is :i*1 x is claim$1 7 kn[n to ! anci5t ,egyptians j z well z !y are to ! mod]n calico pr9t]4 ,^! ?ree me?ods are kn[n z ,direct ,color+1 ,dis*>ge1 & ,resi/ dye+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #b--,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,headdress ,,f ,,an ,,inca ,,tomb ,,9 ,,p]u ,direct ,color+4--,?is means ! application ( ! dye/uff or color+ matt] to diff]5t special portions ( ! textile or fabric1 s z to give a color$ design1 ^u a light] backgr\nd4 ,! dye may be appli$ by dipp+ special portions ( ! fabric into x1 9 :i* case ! patt]n is apt to be a v loose & irregul> "o4 ,or1 if ! mat]ial w take ! dye readily en\gh1 z = in/ance 9 ! /a9+ ( lea!r1 x may be appli$ ) a bru%1 or a small pad4 ,m =mal & intricate designs c be made by apply+ ! color 9 ! =m ( a pa/e1 ?r\gh ! help ( /5cils1 z work$ out by ! ,japanese s beautifully1 or by means ( wood5 or metallic blocks1 z 9 ! block pr9t+ 9 ! ,ea/1 :i* 9 ,europe & ,am]ica has develop$ into ! art ( calico pr9t+1 by rolls run by ma*9]y4 ,dis*>ge4--,?is process is ! exact rev]se ( ! prec$+ "o1 9 t ! clo? or o!r mat]ial is dy$ fir/1 & lat] ! color is ei!r entirely remov$ or1 x may be1 v decid$ly alt]$ 9 %ade1 9 c]ta9 special p>ts1 by ! application ( "s *emical4 ,! e>lie/ examples ( ?is are :]e clo?s /a9$ ) ,iron buff1 h _h patt]ns made 9 !m by wa%+ out c]ta9 portions ) acid4 ,j z "s ( ! e>lie/ =ms ( 8direct color+0 are %[n 9 ! d>k patt]ns ( leaves1 =m$ by ! same ,iron buff dye1 ^u clo? aga9/ :i* moi/ fre% leaves h be5 cru%$4 ,! dis*>ge process is n z commonly us$ by craftsm5 z ! o!r two me?ods1 because x has n always be5 easy to f9d or to use a *emical t w prop]ly de/roy or *ange any p>ticul> color1 )\t at ! same "t1 if fa/ dyes are us$1 de/roy+ or at lea/ injur+ ! fabric4 ,! pr(essional dy]1 work+ 9 conjunction ) ! *emi/1 c>efully weigh+ ! reag5ts1 & us+ /eam *e/s & dry+ *amb]s ) def9ite & c>efully regulat$ temp]atures1 c fully dis*>ge ev5 ! fa/e/ dyes )\t dang]4 ,b ?is is difficult1 if n impossible = ! craftsman1 & :ile ! process w be discuss$ & describ$ "u ! subject ( /5cill+1 x w be f\nd1 comp>atively1 ( b little practical importance4 ,resi/4--,! ?ird & la/ me?od = gett+ color$ patt]ns is "o :i* has be5 us$ 9 diff]5t ways1 by ! mo/ widely scatt]$ nations1 & :i*1 to ?is day1 furni%es "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+ & important processes at ! disposal ( ! craftsman1 z oppos$ to ! pr(essional dy]4 ,x consi/s ( apply+ to c]ta9 portions ( ! fabric1 be=e dye+1 "s ag5t :i*1 act+ ei!r *emically or me*anically1 w 8resi/0 ! action ( ! dye/uff at ! places :]e x is appli$4 ,^! p>ts accord+ly w rema9 9 _! orig9al color1 or at any rate w be b slightly color$1 :ile o!r portions1 n s protect$1 w be dy$ full %ades4 ,?is1 9 _m respects1 is ! mo/ advantage\s way ( obta9+ patt]ns = ! craftsman1 because no action has tak5 place t5d+ to injure ! /r5g? or durability ( ei!r mat]ial or dye/uff1 & z ! color is appli$ 9 a regul> dye-ba? !re is g5]ally an opportunity to apply ! dye/uffs 9 ! mo/ approv$ mann]4 ,v>iations 9 ,resi/ ,"w4--,! resi/ me?od has be5 discov]$ 9 _m p>ts ( ! _w1 & has be5 c>ri$ out 9 _m ways4 ,9 ,java1 = in/ance1 a beautiful art 0 develop$ kn[n z ,batik1 to be describ$ lat]1 9 m detail4 ,^! p us$1 z a resi/+ m$ium1 molt5 beeswax1 :i* c\ld be p\r$ or pa9t$ on to ! clo? :]ev] desir$1 &1 accord+ to :e!r x 0 appli$ hot or only j w>m en\gh to be liquid1 w\ld protect ! mat]ial cov]$1 ei!r :olly or p>tially1 aga9/ ! action ( dye/uffs 9 a cold ba?4 ,less elaborate1 b /ill v int]e/+ processes are report$ f _m o!r qu>t]s4 ,z w be describ$ 9 ! next *apt] ! ,japanese h long us$ a resi/ pa/e1 to make :ite patt]ns aga9/ d>k backgr\nds ) _! /5cils4 ,9 "s ( ! ,pacific ,isl&s natives h le>nt to make patt]ns by press+ pieces ( clo? tightly betwe5 %ells1 z = in/ance ! two halves ( a clam %ell1 & !n dye+ or /a9+ ar\nd !m4 ,o!r tribes le>nt ! trick ( ty+ or sew+ flat ?9 pieces ( wood toge!r1 tightly compress+ ! clo? betwe5 !m & ?us prev5t+ ! dye/uff f rea*+ ^? p>ts ( ! goods :5 dy$ lat]4 ,b ! mo/ common process1 & "o :i* is n only ! simple/ & easie/ to c>ry out1 b also (f]s to ! skilful dy] an almo/ unlimit$ range ( int]e/+ & effective results1 9 color & design1 is ! s-call$ 8,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w40 ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w ,9 ?is process1 ,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w1 ! patt]n is made by ty+ /r+ or cord1 m or less tightly1 ar\nd c]ta9 select$ portions ( ! mat]ial4 ,:5 ! goods1 ?us treat$1 are subsequ5tly dy$1 ^! ti$ portions w be kept f ! action ( ! dye/uff1 & aft] ! op]ation is f9i%$ & ! /r+s cut or unti$1 !y w be light] 9 color ?an ! adjac5t p>ts ( ! fabric4 ,?is process has be5 kn[n & widely us$ 9 _m diff]5t p>ts ( ! _w4 ,"s int]e/+ examples ( x are f\nd among ! textiles f ! s-call$ ,inca graves1 9 ,p]u & ,bolivia1 dat+ f be=e ! ,spani% conque/ 9 ! sixte5? c5tury 7see ,fig4 #b74 ,"s extremely int]e/+ specim5s ( ti$ "w c be se5 9 ! ,philipp9e collection 9 ! ,new ,york ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 br\ght f ! ,bagobo tribe 9 ,m9danao 7see ,fig4 #e74 ,:ile p]haps ! mo/ extraord9>y developm5t ( ?is process c be f\nd 9 ! s-call$ *undries or *un>ies1 import$ f ,c5tral ,h9du/an1 & sold by trad]s 9 ,ea/]n goods & textiles at v mod]ate prices4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #c--,,%ik> ,,*undri1 ,,f ,,rajputana1 ,,) ,,knots ,,/ill ,,unti$ ,*undries4--,^! are *iefly manufactur$ 9 ! native ,/ate ( ,kotah1 9 ,rajputana1 & h be5 produc$ !re f "t immemorial1 = use z clo?+ & hang+s4 ,^? t are import$ to ?is c\ntry 7see ,figs4 #c & #d7 are g5]ally made ( extremely ?91 flimsy musl91 mo/ elaborately decorat$ 9 ?ree or f\r colors1 ) patt]ns made up ( an inf9ite numb] ( small r\nd or rectangul> r+s ( :ite or light colors1 aga9/ a d>k] backgr\nd4 ,!y c be obta9$ 9 ! same condition t !y left ! dy]'s h&s1 fold$ tightly toge!r1 color$ r$ or br[n or black f ! f9al dye-ba?1 & cov]$ ov] ) hundr$s ( little h>d knots or lumps4 ,^!1 on exam9ation1 prove to be ! ti$ places1 ea* ti$ by h&1 by w9d+ r\nd & r\nd ! base ( ! project+ loop ( clo?1 a v f9e ?read1 closely laid & knott$ extremely firm & tight4 ,:5 unw\nd1 :i* mu/ be done ) mu* c>e on acc\nt ( ! ?91 fragile nature ( ! clo?1 ! knott$ portions (t5 %[ mo/ beautiful & int]e/+ designs--done 9 diff]5t colors1 put on be=e ty+1 & protect$ f ! f9al ba? by ! close tight lay] ( ?read4 ,among ! mo/ int]e/+ ( !m are ! s-call$ 8,%ik>0 *undries1 :]e ! design1 repeat$ ov] & ov] aga91 illu/rates "s hunt+ sc5e1 z1 = in/ance1 a tig] hunt1 ) ! animal spr++ at a man arm$ ) a sword1 & a horse or elephant ) h[dah4 ,:5 fully op5$ "o ( ^! *undries makes a /rip ( clo? "s five or six y>ds long1 & 9 ,rajputana is us$ z ! full-dress co/ume ( a "y lady ( fa%ion1 be+ fold$ r\nd & r\nd ! body & ov] ! head 9 mo/ graceful & *>m+ l9es4 ,on /udy+ "o ( ^! *undries "o is /ruck by ! imm5se am\nt ( labor exp5d$ 9 ! ty+ process4 ,! knots :i* =m ! patt]n make1 frequ5tly1 z _m z tw5ty-five or ?irty to ! runn+ in*1 & ea* "o is ti$ s tightly ar\nd ! clo?1 fold$ s z to =m f\r ?icknesses1 & drawn or press$ out into loops1 t x completely protects ! "p x cov]s f ! dye/uff1 only ! tip ( ! loop rema9+ expos$4 ,h5ce1 :5 x is unti$1 !re results a small circul> or rectangul> r+ n ov] ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* 9 diamet]4 ,to obta9 a surface ar\nd :i* ! /r+ c be ?us tightly ti$1 ! fold$ clo? is evid5tly press$ out f ! back by a ?9 p9 or spike 7! effect c be produc$ by ty+ a ?9 piece ( clo? tightly ar\nd a wood5 too?pick7 ar\nd :i* ! ?read c be tightly drawn & knott$1 & :i* usually is left 9 dur+ ! dye+ process & tak5 out aft]w>ds4 ,! patt]ns are s elaborate1 & yet are repeat$ ov] & ov] aga91 on ! same *undries1 ) su* regul>ity1 t x is probable t "s simple app>atus is us$ to press out ! clo? 9 exactly ! prop] places4 ,?is c\ld be done by us+ a little frame ) holes 9 x1 into :i* p9s ( wood or ivory c\ld be set1 l ! m>k]s 9 a cribbage bo>d1 = in/ance1 =m+ def9ite figures on :i* piece aft] piece ( clo? c\ld be plac$ & press$ out into %ape4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #d--,,same ,,*undri ,,z ,,9 ,,fig4 #c1 ,,unti$ ,,& ,,%ak5 ,,out ,! mo/ int]e/+ ?+1 aft] all1 ab\t ^! extraord9>ily elaborate pieces ( h&icraft "w is ! fact t ?is va/ am\nt ( "t & labor is exp5d$ ^u su* poor mat]ials4 ,! musl9 ( :i* !y are made is s ?9 & poor t consid]able pa9s mu/ be tak5 9 op5+ !m1 to prev5t _! te>+ f ! /ra9 ( pull+ (f ! knots ( f9e ?read4 ,!n1 too1 ! colors z a rule n only are fugitive to sunlight1 b are easily affect$ by wa%+4 ,two m9utes scrubb+ 9 hot soapsuds w almo/ completely efface ! patt]n & color f "s ( ! mo/ elaborate & beautiful ( !m all4 ,& ?is is n1 z is claim$ frequ5tly by mod]n writ]s ^u ,ea/]n h&icrafts1 due to ! introduction ( *eap & fugitive 8anil9e0 dye/uffs4 ,! dyes1 us$ = g5]ations by ! ,rajput craftsm51 = _! mo/ elaborate *undries1 7 pr9cipally tum]ic1 saffl[]1 & o!r inf]ior vegetable colors1 appli$ s loosely z to be m]ely /a9s r ?an dyes--& x w\ld be h>d to get mod]n dye/uffs :i*1 appli$ ) any c>e1 w\ld be z fugitive z ^? commonly us$ = ! v be/ examples ( ^! beautiful textiles4 ,ti$ ,"w 9 ! ,philipp9es4--,( diff]5t quality is ! "w ( ! ,bagobo tribe 9 ,m9danao1 int]e/+ specim5s ( :i* are to be se5 9 ! ,philipp9e collection ( ! ,new ,york ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory4 ,z %[n 9 ,fig4 #e1 a headdress belong+ to ,miss ,laura ,b5$ict1 ! "w is n unlike t done by ! anci5t ,p]uvians1 & ! patt]ns1 al?\gh (t5 exce$+ly complex1 are inv>iably geometrical1 & d n approa* 9 v>iety or 9 int]e/ ^? f ,india4 ,! color+1 too1 is f> simpl]--practically all ! examples %[+ light patt]ns on a dull purpli% backgr\nd4 ,b ! dye+ is mo/ c>efully & ?or\ghly made--tak+ ab\t ?irty days to complete1 dye+ ea* night & wa%+ ?or\ghly ea* morn+ dur+ all t "t1 until ! f9al product is exce$+ly p]man5t to bo? light & wa%+4 ,miss ,b5$ict1 :o 0 ! fir/ :ite p]son to ent] ! ,bagobo c\ntry & /udy & report on _! h&icrafts1 /ates t ! patt]ns are made 9 a curi\s mann]4 ,! patt]n is fir/ outl9$ ^u ! clo? by a s]ies ( ba/+ /it*es1 ! int]section ( two /it*es be+ ! m>k = ! c5tre ( "o ( ! ti$ places4 ,!n ! op]ator1 seat$1 puts ov] h] big toe a r+ atta*$ to a l9e "s ?ree feet long1 on ! end ( :i* is a simple hook made f a b5t & %>p5$ piece ( copp] or brass wire4 ,hold+ ! clo? 9 "o h&1 %e !n fa/5s ! hook into "o ( ! m>k$ places1 pulls ! "p out ) h] foot1 & ties up ! loop ?us =m$1 rapidly & tightly1 ) wax$ ?read4 ,?is %e w9ds r\nd & r\nd ! loop1 beg9n+ ) ! bottom fir/1 & knots x tight1 us+ ! free h&1 assi/$1 except ) v exp]t work]s1 ) ! ?umb & =ef+] ( ! o!r4 ,specim5s ( textiles ?us ti$1 & n yet dy$ or op5$1 & also ( ! toe-r+1 l9e1 & hook us$ 9 ! process1 c be se5 at ! ,museum1 along ) a great v>iety ( beautiful specim5s ( ! f9i%$ "w4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #e--;,,bagobo ,,headdress ,,f ,,! ,,isl& ,,( ,,m9danao ,x is r>e t1 9 our pres5t surr\nd+s1 any craftsman c sp>e ! "t & pati5ce to copy ! elaborate patt]ns made 9 ^! ways by ! ,ea/]n dy]s4 ,b equally beautiful & int]e/+ results c be produc$ ) v little exp5diture ( "t & labor1 by ! skilful dy]1 :o kn[s some?+ ( ! fundam5tal pr9ciples ( design & c use 8 dyes s z to get s(t & beautiful z well z p]man5t color effects4 ,x is impossible1 9 a "w l ?is1 to d m ?an sugge/ "s ( ! _m ways 9 :i* ?is process c be us$4 ,! re/ dep5ds entirely ^u practice--& m c be le>n$ ab\t its possibilities 9 a c\ple ( h\rs' "w ) musl9 or *eeseclo?1 & a ball ( tw9e or tape1 9 connection ) a dye-pot ( a good ,sulphur dye1 ?an by weeks ( li/5+ or read+ ab\t x4 ,,v>ieties ,,( ,,ti$ ,,"w ,ti$ on ,itself4--,int]e/+ effects may (t5 be produc$ on long pieces ( clo?1 sc>fs1 & ! l1 by fold+ !m ov] & ty+ !m into knots at "o or two select$ places1 be=e dye+4 ,fig4 #f %[s an example ( ?is1 7a7 ,ti$ & ready = dye+2 7b7 ,dy$ & op5$ out4 ,?is :5 work$ out 9 diff]5t colors1 dye+ fir/1 ) "s light color1 !n ty+ & dye+ ) ano!r color1 or else color+ ! ti$ & dy$ piece ) a second light ba? ( ano!r color1 gives v pleasant results z appli$ to drap]ies--z1 = in/ance1 simple co/umes = pageants & out-(-doors plays4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 almo/1 if n q1 impossible to obta9 def9ite designs 9 ?is way1 & x is h>dly possible to duplicate results4 ,b occasionally ! process is useful4 ,ti$ ) ,/r+ or ,tape4--,f> m important is ! process g5]ally meant by ! t]m 8ti$ & dy$ "w10 :]e ! patt]n is made by ty+ ei!r ?read1 /r+1 cord1 or ev5 tape1 m or less tightly ar\nd special portions ( ! clo?4 ,^! portions are usually drawn out1 or press$ out1 or fold$1 s z to =m a sort ( loop ar\nd :i* ! /r+ c be ti$4 ,b occasionally ! :ole clo?1 laid flat & ) b little fold+1 is ti$ tightly across1 s t ! res]v$ "p =ms1 :5 unti$1 a m or less /raight b&4 ,ti$ 9 ,b&s4--,x is (t5 desirable to sep>ate "o "p ( a design f ano!r by means ( a broad l9e or b& ( :ite or light color4 ,?is c be readily done by ty+ a piece ( /rong tw9e or tape1 tightly1 "r across ! goods at ! desir$ place be=e dye+ x4 ,q elaborate & int]e/+ effects c be produc$ 9 ?is way by fir/ fold+ ! clo? l5g?ways1 & !n ty+ a wid? ( sev]al in*es ) a broad piece ( tape4 ,if x is n ti$ too tight "s ( ! color w "w up & d[n ! folds1 "u ! tape1 & give1 :5 f9i%$1 curi\s wavy effects4 7,see ,fig4 #g47 ,ti$ 9 ,small ,loops4--,?is b&+1 ?\gh int]e/+ & useful1 diff]s f ! %>p little r\nd or diamond-%ap$ r+s =m+ ! patt]ns 9 ! ,rajput or ,bagobo textiles4 ,^! are produc$ by press+ or pull+ out ! clo? into loops or bun*es :i* are !n ti$ tightly r\nd & r\nd ) /r+ or ?read1 ! middle ( ! loop be+ usually left expos$ to ! dye/uff1 s z to =m a color$ c5tre4 ,illu/ration3 7a7--,ti$ & ,ready = ,dye+ 7b7--,dy$1 ,unti$ & ,%ak5 ,out ,,fig4 #f--,,sample ,,( ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w1 8,,ti$ ,,on ,,itself0 ,v small loops c be made1 z m5tion$ above1 by press+ out ! clo? ) a wood5 p9 7or too?pick7 & ty+ tightly ar\nd ?is1 leav+ 9 ! p9 until aft] ! dye+ is complet$4 ,skilful work]s c tie q small loops by plac+ a bead1 or dri$ pea1 or piece ( gravel 9 ! clo? & ty+ ! clo? tightly ar\nd ?is4 ,x is be/1 always1 to h some?+ ( ! sort1 p9 or bead1 to act z a c5tre1 or else ! knot1 aft] ty+1 is v apt to slip (f1 & spoil ! patt]n4 ,! design = ?is sort ( "w %\ld be c>efully plann$ be=eh&1 & m>k$ out on ! clo? ) p5cil or *alk4 ,=1 ) small loops l ?is1 ! int]e/ is m 9 ! patt]n =m$ by !m ?an 9 ! *anges & contra/s 9 color betwe5 ! diff]5t ti$ p>ts & ! re/ ( ! clo?4 ,a v int]e/+ specim5 ( "w done 9 ?is way by ,miss ,m>y ,grey is %[n 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,ti$ 9 ,l>ge ,knots & ,loops4--,x is h>d = a ,we/]n craftsman to obta9 %>p1 well-def9$ knots by ?is me?od1 ( a diamet] ( less ?an half an in* or s4 ,usually1 inde$1 x is too mu* ( a bo!r & nuisance to try any knots cov]+ less ?an an in* & a half4 ,f ?is size1 up to fifte5 & tw5ty in*es 9 diamet]1 w be f\nd ! va/ majority ( all ,am]ican "w4 ,! reason is v simple4 ,! tr\ble ( ty+ a knot cov]+ five in*es is v little m ?an t = a half-in* knot1 inde$ f> less = mo/ p1 :ile ! l>ge knot produces an imm$iate effect n equall$ by a doz5 ( ! latt]4 ,fur!rmore1 ) l>ge knots1 big bold designs c be produc$1 :i*1 ) pleasant & skilfully select$ colors1 give results f> m /rik+ & effective ?an c be %[n by ! small knots1 no matt] h[ c>efully c>ri$ out4 ,on ! o!r h&1 intricate & c>efully plann$ designs c be work$ out ) small knots1 :i* _c be attempt$ ) ! l>ge ones4 ,= designs ) l>ge knots1 beside ! clo?1 :i* %\ld be s(t & free f dress+1 & a ball ( s(t ?ick tw9e or bett]1 ( *eap cotton b9d+ tape1 half to ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in* wide1 x is well to h a supply ( l>ge glass beads1 ( m>bles ( diff]5t sizes1 &1 if ^! are n easy to get1 ( pebbles1 beans1 hazelnuts1 & ! l4 ,^! are n always to be us$1 b 9 mo/ cases x makes a m int]e/+ contra/ to h ! c5tre ( ! ti$ spot come out d>k1 ) ! light] p>ts1 m or less %ad$1 ar\nd x4 ,t means t ! c5tre mu/ be expos$ to ! dye/uff by be+ /ret*$ out ov] a m>ble or pebble1 :ile ! p>ts ar\nd x are ti$ up4 ,& ! ty+1 too1 is greatly facilitat$ by hav+ a h>d c5tre to "w aga9/4 ,by ty+ ar\nd "o m>ble fir/1 & !n putt+ 9 ano!r & ty+ r\nd t1 a s]ies ( conc5tric r+s w be =m$1 ! black r+s %[+ :]e ! clo?1 cov]+ ! m>ble1 has be5 expos$1 & ! light-color$ "p %[+ :]e x has be5 cov]$ by ! tape or /r+4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #g--,,sample ,,( ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w1 8,,ti$ ,,9 ,,b&s10 ,,) ,,incid5tal ,,knots4 ,,by ,,miss ,,m>y ,,grey ,z be=e1 ! design1 if at all elaborate1 %\ld be m>k$ out be=eh& on ! op5 clo?1 & ! p>ts ti$ 9 accord+ly4 ,mu* exp]i5ce is requir$ to "k j h[ tight to tie ! tape s z to get a desir$ effect ) ea* p>ticul> k9d ( clo?1 & ea* class ( dye/uffs4 ,9 g5]al1 ) small knots ! /r+ %\ld be ti$ v tight1 or o!rwise no effect is produc$ at all4 ,! l>g] ! ti$ p>ts1 h[ev]1 ! m pa9s %\ld be tak5 to h ! clo? fold$ be=e ty+1 s t "s ( ! color may "w d[n ?r\gh ! folds pa/ ! tape1 & ?us produce %ad$ effects1 :i* may be ( great beauty 7see ,plate ,,iv1 ,fig4 a74 ,( c\rse1 9 ?is1 mu* dep5ds on ! clo?2 a ?ick heavy calico ty+ ) difficulty1 b n lett+ ! dye/uff soak ?r\gh2 :ile s(t op5 mat]ials l scrim or *eeseclo?1 = in/ance1 mu/ be ti$ mu* tight]1 or ! color w "w ?r\gh s mu* z to spoil ! design4 ,! /ud5t is advis$ to practise1 f ! />t1 ty+ 8 tape ) a slip loop1 or at any rate a b[ knot1 & n ) a fa/ squ>e knot ea* "t1 s z to save tr\ble & bo!r :5 unty+ lat]4 ,a skilful craftsman w tie q a l>ge piece ( clo?1 9 an int]e/+ & fairly complicat$ design1 9 a few m9utes4 ,b aft] dye+1 :ile ! clo? is /ill wet1 & ! tape or /r+ has %runk1 & ! knots h tight5$1 x is (t5 m tr\ble to untie1 or cut x op51 ?an x 0 to make x1 & !re is always ! dang] ( cutt+ holes 9 x4 ,a little pa9s 9 lay+ d[n "o end ( ! tape1 be=e />t+ to tie1 s t1 :5 ! :ole loop is ti$ up1 ! o!r end w come out alongside ( ! fir/ s t x c be jo9$ to x by a b[ knot1 w save any am\nt ( "t & vexation4 ,sew$ & ,dy$ ,"w4--,besides protect+ ! clo? f ! action ( ! dye/uff by ty+ /r+ or tape ar\nd x1 ! same effect c be produc$ by sew+ up c]ta9 p>ts ( x1 be=e dye+1 & !n1 aft] ! re/ has be5 color$1 & ! loose dye-liquor wa%$ (f1 ! sew$-up p>ts c be op5$ & press$ into %ape4 ,?is modification ( ! process1 s f> z ,i c le>n1 is n practis$ by ! ,rajputs ) _! *undries1 b 9 ! ,b5$ict collection c be se5 "s mo/ extraord9>y & elaborate pieces ( dy$ "w made j 9 ?is way4 ,! ,japanese1 also1 h be5 9 ! habit ( us+ ?is me?od1 & sometimes !y produce curi\s zigzag l9es by tak+ co>se /it*es across ! clo?1 alt]nately1 fir/ to "o side & !n to ! o!r side ( ! c5tre l9e1 & !n draw+ ! ?read tight4 ,! ne$le is (t5 us$ = bord]s--= /raight l9es c easily be made 9 s(t mat]ials 7& su* only %\ld be us$ = ti$ "w7 by hemm+ ! clo? ) /rong ?read1 & !n draw+ x up close & tight be=e putt+ x 9 ! dye-ba?4 ,! developm5t ( ?is bran* ( ! process1 h[ev]1 belongs prop]ly to ! fair sex4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #h--;,,fold+ ,,! ,,clo? ,,fig4 #i--,,/>t+ ,,to ,,tie ,,fig4 #aj--;,,c5tre ,,portion ,,ti$ ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w ,dye+ ,process4--,n[ = ! dye+ process4 ,( c\rse1 = practise1 ! craftsman w use cotton z 8 raw mat]ial1 9 ! =m ( musl91 *eeseclo?1 scrim1 or be/ ( all1 light grades ( m]c]iz$ cotton1 & h5ce w use ! v>i\s cotton dye/uffs4 ,! ,salt colors are h>dly advisable1 because ?\gh fa/ to light !y are n all fa/ to wa%+ unless well boil$ on1 & t means t1 unless ti$ extremely fa/ & tight1 ! color w\ld be b\nd to p5etrate1 & wipe out ! design4 ,! ,sulphur colors & ! ,vat colors are ! be/ = ! purpose--= !y c be dy$ cold or lukew>m1 )\t injur+ ! fa/ness ( ! dye1 & give colors fa/ bo? to light & to wa%+4 ,9 g5]al1 x is easi] to get ev5 %ades ) ! ,sulphur colors1 & _! %ades are s(t & pleas+1 b :ile fa/1 !y are n z fa/ z ! ,vat dyes1 & x is impossible to get a dec5t sc>let ) !m4 ,! skilful dy] w1 ( c\rse1 select 8 class to suit ! %ade he is try+ to get & also to meet ! requirem5ts ab\t fa/ness4 ,b1 9 g5]al1 he w use ! ,salt colors = cov]+ & %ad+ ! patt]ns produc$ ) ei!r ! ,sulphur or ! ,vat dyes4 ,:5 us+ ! oxidation dyes1 l ! ,sulphur or ,vat colors1 pl5ty ( "t mu/ be giv5 = ! dye/uffs to oxidize & set be=e !y are unti$4 ,b1 on ! o!r h&1 directly !y are once unti$ x is important to wa% (f ! loose dye-liquor f ! clo?1 & especially f ! ti$-9 portions1 z soon z possible aft] unty+1 o!rwise "s dye-liquors t may h soak$ 9 )\t hav+ _h a *ance to oxidize1 w1 :5 expos$ to air1 sudd5ly fix !mselves & obscure or ru9 ! patt]n4 ,aft] atta9+ "s skill 9 ?is process ! craftsman is urg$ to try x on m important mat]ials l silk4 ,mo/ beautiful effects c be1 & are be+ produc$ by ?is means1 on s(t delicate sc>fs made ( ,*9ese or ,indian silks4 ,! ,acid colors are1 ( c\rse1 us$ = ?is1 & z !y take s readily on silk1 ! possibilities ( %ad+ & ov]-%ad+ diff]5t portions ( ! design1 or ( add+ a t\* ( color "h & !re :]e x seems desirable1 (f] inf9ite possibilities to an arti/ic workman4 ,! comb9ations ( color t c be produc$ are inf9ite1 & ! curi\s bl5d+ ( regul>ity & irregul>ity1 9 ! designs & figures1 r5d]s x a mo/ attractive process to practise )4 ,"o great attraction ab\t x is ! s5se ( susp5se1 & ! impossibility ( tell+ j :at effect is be+ produc$1 until ! knots are all unti$1 & ! clo? wa%$ (f & op5$ out4 ,ano!r attraction is ! feel+ ( work+ all ! "t 9 an unexplor$ or v p>tially explor$ c\ntry4 ,!re is ! con/ant *ance ( obta9+ at any mom5t effects nev] ?\ght ( be=e4 ,! exp]im5t] is always try+ "s new little trick 9 ty+1 or 9 fold+1 or 9 dye+1 ! results ( :i* c nev] be =ese5 accurately1 & :i* are always int]e/+ & (t5 v beautiful4 ,ti$ & ,dis*>g$ ,"w4--,"o day1 9 our laboratory1 "s exp]im5ts 7 made :i* result$ 9 a modification ( ?is process :i*1 s f> z we "k1 0 entirely new1 & :i* pres5ts v int]e/+ possibilities1 to say ! lea/4 ,we made ! exp]im5t ( dye+ ! clo? fir/1 & !n ty+ x up1 & putt+ x 9 a blea*+ solution1 s z to dis*>ge ! color ev]y:]e except+ :]e x 0 protect$ by ! ty+4 ,! exp]im5t 0 successful1 result+ 7see ,plate ,,iv1 ,fig4 b71 9 a s]ies ( d>k patt]ns on a light backgr\nd4 ,all k9ds ( modifications ( ?is c be made4 ,= in/ance1 ! clo? c be dy$ ) a mixture ( two or ?ree dyes1 "s ( :i* are fa/ & ! o!r or o!rs c be dis*>g$ by ! *emical us$4 ,! patt]n ?us w be ! full mix$ color1 say br[n1 aga9/ a backgr\nd ( r$ or yell[ or blue z ! case may be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #aa--;,,c5tre ,,& ,,corn]s ,,ti$ ,,fig4 #ab--;,,dy$1 ,,unti$ ,,& ,,%ak5 ,,out ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w-,,cont9u$ ,! important ?+ ab\t ?is modification is to select ! prop] blea*+ ag5t to act on ! p>ticul> colors1 & ! p>ticul> k9d ( mat]ial1 us$4 ,our fir/ exp]im5ts 7 ) blea*+ p[d] 7*loride ( lime71 dissolv$ 9 wat]1 say two tablespoonfuls to ! gallon1 )1 if necess>y1 a few drops ( acetic acid or weak sulphuric acid /irr$ into x4 ,?is p[]ful blea*+ ag5t is v apt to attack ! clo?1 & only heavy mat]ials1 su* z scrim or heavy calico %\ld be us$ ) x4 ,b al?\gh s /rong1 x does n act at all readily on a l>ge numb] ( ! dye/uffs1 includ+ _m ( ! ,vat colors4 ,"s ( ^!1 l ! ,indan?r5e colors1 are n affect$ at all1 ,indigo is *ang$ f blue to a brilliant %ade ( yell[4 ,& ,?io ,indigo ,r$ ,b produces curi\s %ades ( purple1 settl+1 :]e expos$ to ! full action ( ! blea*+ ag5t1 to orange4 ,lat] we repeat$ ! exp]im5ts1 us+ hydrosulphite ( soda1 say two tablespoonfuls to ! gallon ( w>m wat]1 z a dis*>ge1 ) mu* bett] success4 ,! clo? 0 n injur$1 ev5 :5 delicate mat]ials l silk & light popl9s 7 us$4 ,& ! great majority ( colors1 includ+ ne>ly all ! be/ ,salt1 ,sulphur1 & ,acid dyes1 r$uc$ rapidly & well4 ,! ,vat dyes w r$uce1 &1 9 ! pres5ce ( cau/ic soda1 w dissolve out ( ! expos$ clo? almo/ entirely1 b x is h>d to r$uce !m to :ite 9 ?is way4 ,9 e case ! color1 aft] r$uction1 mu/ be wa%$ at once 9 w>m soap & wat]1 or else1 on exposure to ! air1 ! color may come back to "s ext5t1 ow+ to oxidation4 ,a weak ba? ( hydrosulphite ( soda1 also1 %\ld always be on h&1 9 ! =m] blea*+ process2 =1 :5 blea*+ p[d] 7*loride ( lime7 or o!r *lor9e comp\nds1 su* z ,javelle wat] or ,lab>raque's solution1 are us$ = de/roy+ ! color1 _! fur!r action c be /opp$1 & also ! (f5sive smell remov$1 by dipp+ ! blea*$ mat]ial into a s-call$ anti*lor1 l ?is hydrosulphite4 ,?is subject ( dis*>ge is dealt ) m at l5g? 9 a future *apt]4 ,illu/ration3 7a7 ,,example ,,( ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$ ,,"w 7b7 ,,example ,,( ,,ti$ ,,& ,,dis*>g$ ,,"w ,,plate ,,iv4 ,,*apt] ,,xv ,,/5cils ,,& ,,/5cill+ ,,direct ,,application ,,( ,,colors ,hi/ory4--,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s a great deal ( att5tion has be5 paid to ! manufacture & use ( /5cils = decorat+ textiles1 n only by craft work]s ( diff]5t k9ds1 b also by art tea*]s 9 private & public s*ools4 ,! art is n a mod]n "o1 ev5 9 ?is c\ntry1 = ,i h se5 & work$ ) a s]ies ( v int]e/+ /5cils cut 9 brass1 :i* 7 own$ 9 ,philadelphia by ! fam\s old physician1 ,dr4 ,b5jam9 ,ru%1 ov] a hundr$ ye>s ago1 & 7 us$ 9 8 family = m>k+ l951 z well z = decorat+ homespuns & pap]4 ,! real home ( ! art1 h[ev]1 is ,japan1 :]e1 = ov] ?ree hundr$ ye>s1 /5cils h be5 9 common use1 l>gely replac+ ! wood blocks us$ 9 o!r c\ntries1 = decorat+ ! common cotton goods1 t[els1 head cov]+s1 & ! l ( ! l[] classes1 & also = ornam5t+1 :]e embroid]y 0 n desir$1 ! beautiful silks & sat9s ( ! weal?y4 ,ev] s9ce ,japan has be5 op5$ to ! _w travel]s h be5 tell+ wond]ful /ories ( ! great skill ( ! natives 9 ?is beautiful art4 ,accord+ to "s writ]s1 z soon z a *ild is born x is giv5 a nickname1 & ) x1 z a sort ( totem1 a design--a fl[]1 = in/ance1 = a girl--a tree or an animal = a boy--& ! l4 ,?is design1 work$ out c>efully1 aft] due criticism f all ! family eld]s1 is drawn on br[n pap] & !n c>efully cut out ) a %>p knife by "s memb] or fri5d ( ! family4 ,& ?is /5cil is !n s5t to ! local dy] to be us$ 9 dye+ ! infant's clo!s4 ,?is same design1 or a modification ( x1 is atta*$ to ! p]son ?r\gh life1 z 8 or h] own private patt]n1 & :5ev] new clo!s are ne$$ !y are dy$ aft] ?is same patt]n4 ,japanese ,/5cils4--,pap]4--,x is a common fact t ! v fir/ ?+ noticeable ab\t ,japanese /5cils1 :e!r br\ght f "s dyeh\se 9 ! int]ior1 or :e!r made m or less me*anically1 = ! ,am]ican m>ket1 to be sold to /ud5ts or craftsm51 is ! quality ( ! pap]4 ,x is ?91 h>dly heavi] ?an ord9>y writ+ pap]1 b exce$+ly t\gh & /rong1 & cuts v easily1 )\t te>+4 ,x c occasionally be obta9$ f import]s 9 %eets1 & ev5 bett] qualities c be secur$1 f among a mass ( old /5cils1 by f9d+ "s :i* h be5 only p>tially cut or us$ up1 & c>efully cutt+ out f !m ! unus$ portions :]e ^! are l>ge en\gh = ! purpose4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ac--;,,japanese ,,/5cil ,,knife ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ad--;,,japanese ,,/5cil ,,bru%es ,knives4--,9 cutt+ /5cil designs our ,am]ican practice is to use a %>p p5knife1 or a ,sloyd knife1 or1 z happ5s occasionally ) "s ( my fri5ds ) amiable pr(essional husb&s1 a surgeon's scalpel4 ,none ( ^!1 h[ev]1 comp>e = neatness1 accuracy1 & ease & com=t ( manipulation1 ) ! v simple b extremely effective little ,japanese knives %[n 9 ,fig4 #ac4 ,! knife blade1 ( v highly temp]$ /eel1 is two or ?ree in*es long & fits betwe5 two flatt5$ plates ( wood1 ti$ toge!r tightly at ! bottom b spr++ ap>t a little t[>d ! top1 z a h&le4 ,?is little spr+ ( ! h&le is mo/ satisfactory4 ,& z ! blade1 :i* is triangul> & %>ply po9t$1 is worn away gradually by ! con/ant gr9d+ & %>p5+ x mu/ receive1 ! /eel c be pu%$ =w>d f betwe5 ! two halves ( ! h&le1 until ! prop] l5g? is rea*$4 ,cutt+4--,! ,japanese draw _! designs on pap] ) ,india ink1 & !n1 ) incr$ible swiftness & accuracy1 ! l9es are cut1 by pu%+ ! knife blade1 held ) ! back d[nw>ds1 away f ! workman1 & ?r\gh ! pap] :i* is plac$ flat on a piece ( wood or small tray1 ) depressions 9 x half an in* or s deep1 to avoid ! dang] & bo!r ( runn+ ! knife po9t into ! wood4 ,am]ican ,practice4--,our way diff]s some:at4 ,! design is usually drawn on a sep>ate piece ( :ite pap]1 & fill$ 9--9 black--) ,india ink4 ,?is is !n plac$ und]nea? ! /5cil pap] :i*1 especially if x has be5 oil$ or p>aff9$1 is transluc5t en\gh to %[ ! patt]n ?r\gh1 s t ! outl9e c be drawn ) a %>p p5cil4 ,! outl9e c also be made by trac+ ! design d[n on ! /5cil pap] ) ! help ( a piece ( c>bon copy+ pap]4 ,?is is laid betwe5 ! design & ! /5cil pap] & !n ! outl9e ( ! design is c>efully trac$ ) a %>p-po9t$ p5cil4 ,f ^! outl9es x is easy1 ) a %>p /5cil knife1 to cut out ! design1 al?\gh x is cu/om>y ) u to cut t[>d ! body ) ! po9t ( ! knife d[n1 ^u a piece ( blott+ pap] or s(t wood s z n to dull x too rapidly4 ,ties & ,/ops4--,:5 /5cill+ is taught 9 ,am]ica great pa9s are tak5 to %[ h[ ! patt]n mu/ be plann$ & cut out1 s z to h pl5ty ( 8ties0 or 8/ops0 9 ! "r places1 s z to hold ! /5cil toge!r4 ,= in/ance1 9 mak+ a /5cil ( a l>ge capital ,o1 ! /ud5t %\ld be w>n$ t1 if ! pap] 0 cut all ! way ar\nd1 x w\ld leave a big hole2 = ! c5tral piece1 :i* w\ld =m ! c5tre ( ! f9i%$ lett]1 w\ld drop out1 & c\ld n be kept 9 place4 ,accord+ly1 ! /5cil w\ld h to be cut c>efully1 leav+ at lea/ two 8bridges0 or little 8tie pieces0 ( pap]1 "o probably at ! top1 & ! o!r at ! bottom ( ! ,o1 ^! be+ ! n>r[e/ po9ts1 :i* w\ld hold ! c5tre 9 place1 & ?us complete ! figure4 ,inde$1 if ^! little 8/eps0 or 8bridges0 ( pap] %\ld be left out1 or become torn or brok51 ! /5cil w\ld be useless4 ,b a situation l ?is has little or no t]ror = ! ,japanese1 at any rate :5 work+ = _! home trade4 ,_! /5cils cut = ! ,am]ican m>ket :ile always int]e/+1 & (t5 *>m+1 are cut1 z ours are1 f "o piece ( pap]1 ) /ops 9 ! expos$ places4 ,b ! /5cils t h be5 us$1 or cut = use1 ov] !re1 %[ a v diff]5t /ate ( affairs4 ,all ( ! l>ge1 h&some ones1 & a l>ge proportion ( ! small]1 less arti/ic1 & less valuable ones are made1 ) almo/ inconceivable skill & pati5ce1 9 duplicate4 ,& ! two p>ts are aft]w>ds pa/$ toge!r ) absolute accuracy1 b ) a lay] ( f9e hair1 suppos$ly human hair1 betwe5 !m4 ,^! hairs1 laid irregul>ly b ev5ly1 make a sort ( network :i* ties toge!r all portions ( ! /5cil1 no matt] h[ disconnect$ ) ! re/1 or1 z we w\ld say1 89 ! air10 x might be4 ,s1 too1 !y are 9 ! habit ( sew+ 91 ) ! f9e/ ( hair or ( s+le ?reads ( f9e silk1 loose pieces or brok5 pieces1 & ?us hold+ !m 9 %ape4 ,x is int]e/+ to /udy "s ( !m closely & see h[ neatly ?is ty+ is done & h[ little ! "t ( ^! unkn[n workm5 mu/ be valu$ at4 ,= ap>t f ! l>ge picture /5cils :i*1 ( c\rse1 w\ld be wor? tak+ a great deal ( pa9s )1 "s ( ! simple/ & mo/ ord9>y ( _! native /5cils are n only cut b ti$ 91 ) extraord9>y skill4 ,"o ( ^!1 valu$ "h at b a few c5ts1 consi/$ ( a backgr\nd ( small figures 9 %ape & size v mu* l a capital ,o ( ! type ( ?is page4 ,! /5cil measures "s eighte5 by t5 in*es1 & !re mu/ be betwe5 fifte5 hundr$ & two ?\s& ( ^! ,o figures on x4 ,"s few ( ^! are n[ imp]fect1 b ) ! exception ( a doz5 or two1 e s+le "o ( all ^! has _h ! c5tre cut out1 & !n sew$ into place aga91 f ! sides1 s z to be 9 ! exact c5tre1 )\t a s+le 8/op0 or 8tie0 on ! :ole pap]4 ,bru%es4--,) /5cils s v delicately made1 x is evid5t t our crude ,am]ican /yle ( rubb+ 9 ! color1 ) heavy h&s & /iff bri/le bru%es1 w\ld n be mu* ( a success6 ,ab\t "o good rub ) a bru% l t1 & e hair 9 sight w\ld be torn & brok51 & :at 0 a m9ute be=e a "w ( art w\ld be a torn mass ( br[n pap]4 ,:e!r any ( our ,am]ican craftsm5 h light en\gh h&s to use1 successfully1 a f9e ,japanese /5cil is d\btful4 ,p]sonally1 ,i c\ld no m /5cil six in*es ) any ( !m )\t ru9+ x or mak+ a mess ( ! clo? ?an ,i c\ld 9 a ye> cut1 )\t te>+1 six squ>e in*es ( any "o ( a score ( *eap & ord9>y ,japanese /5cils :i* ,i own1 ei!r pres5t$ to me or sold at a v l[ price1 z be+ really too insignificant 9 value to am\nt to any?+4 ,b at any rate1 ! ,japanese d n use a /iff bri/le bru%4 ,_! bru%es1 9 g5]al1 are ( two sorts1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ad4 ,"o is a sort ( pad1 (t5 q l>ge1 five or six in*es 9 diamet]1 made ( rabbit's fur1 tightly b\nd toge!r ) cord or wire1 & ) a bundle ( small /icks spread+ out to enclose ! pad1 & drawn toge!r & ti$ above1 at ! upp] end1 9 a sort ( pyramid4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ae--;,,japanese ,,/5cil1 ,,%[+ ,,holes ,,pun*$ ,,by ,,h& ,,tool ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #af--;,,japanese ,,/5cil1 ,,exact ,,size1 ,,%[+ ,,use ,,( ,,/ops ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ag--;,,japanese ,,/5cil1 ,,exact ,,size1 ,,%[+ ,,use ,,( ,,sew+ ,,in/ead ,,( ,,/ops ,! o!r v>iety is a true bru%1 ( a m ord9>y %ape1 l a flat pa9t bru%1 b also made ( ! v s(te/ & f9e/1 mo/ velvety hairs imag9able1 laid extremely close toge!r1 & compress$ tightly betwe5 ! two halves ( ! h&le4 ,^! c be obta9$ occasionally f ! deal]s at reasonable prices1 & are delightful to "w )4 ,only1 be+ meant = ! s(t1 light t\*es ( _! native workm51 !y d n la/ long :5 rubb$ d[n on ! clo? z is our practise4 ,_! life is consid]ably increas$ by p\r+ "s molt5 beeswax into ! back ( bo? goods & bru%es ) a batik pot1 or ,tjant+1 :i* prev5ts ! f9e hairs f pull+ out until ! bru% is all worn to pieces4 ,! ,c>e ( ,/5cils4--,a ^w may "h be said ab\t tak+ c>e ( /5cils1 aft] !y h be5 cut or pur*as$4 ,!y %\ld always be us$ on "o side1 & c>efully wip$ (f ) a damp clo?1 directly aft] us+4 ,!y %\ld always be kept flat1 nev] fold$4 ,&1 :5 us+ !m1 x mu/ always be rememb]$ t ! ties or bridges are ! weak spots1 & t break+ or te>+ !m1 z a rule1 w spoil ! /5cil4 ,x is1 ( c\rse1 possible to m5d !m by sew+1 or sometimes by pat*+ ) tape4 ,b ?is is always tr\blesome1 & ) well p>aff9$ /5cils is r>ely satisfactory4 ,! ,diff]5t ,me?ods ( ,us+ ,/5cils4--,9 ?is c\ntry1 s f> z c be asc]ta9$1 ! common way 9 :i* /5cils h be5 us$ is by bru%+ ?r\gh !m1 on to ! clo?1 oil pa9ts ?9n$ ) turp5t9e or gasol9e4 ,z previ\sly expla9$1 9 ! *apt] on fea!r dye+1 ?is is n v satisfactory4 ,= :5 pa9t is suffici5tly ?ick to adh]e well to ! clo?1 x is apt to look /iff & %9y4 ,& :5 x is appli$ s ?9 t ! /ructure ( ! clo? %[s ?r\gh1 x is1 z a rule1 n fa/ to wa%+ or ev5 to rubb+4 ,v>i\s v>ni%es are on ! m>ket :i* help consid]ably to make ! pa9t fa/1 b ev5 !n ! results are n ne>ly s durable z :5 ! prop] dye/uffs are us$4 ,! ,japanese practice is exclusively ) dyes1 & !y h work$ out processes :i* are p]fectly satisfactory1 s t _! simple1 *eap1 /5cill$ t[els c /& wa%+ indef9itely )\t loss ( color4 ,& by ! use ( mod]n dye/uffs !re is no insup]able ob/acle to our do+ j z well z !y4 ,! use ( /5cils gives an excell5t opportunity to illu/rate ! ?ree g5]al me?ods ( color+ fabrics1 :i*1 z m5tion$ 9 ! la/ *apt]1 consi/ (3 ,direct application ( color4 ,resi/1 & ,dis*>ge4 ,! la/ two ( ^! w be res]v$ = ! next *apt]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ah--;,,japanese ,,/5cils1 ,,exact ,,size1 ,,%[+ ,,use ,,( ,,bo? ,,/ops ,,& ,,net ,direct ,application ( ,color4--,9 ?is intricate "w x w g5]ally be f\nd almo/ a necessity to apply colors ?r\gh a /5cil 9 ! =m ( a pa/e1 = :5 ! color+ liquid is ?9 x is v apt to run "u ! edges ( ! pap] & spoil ! design4 ,x is be/ to ?ick5 x ) a little 8gum dragon10 a c>efully prep>$ pa/e ( gum tragacan?1 to :i* ! color+ matt]1 & any reag5ts t are ne$$1 c be add$4 ,! nature ( ! reag5ts & ! class ( dye/uffs us$ dep5ds1 ( c\rse1 ^u ! k9d ( mat]ial to be /5cill$4 7a7 ,lea!r4--,:ile n v (t5 us$1 /ud5ts int]e/$ 9 lea!r "w w f9d a c>efully design$ & neatly cut /5cil a mo/ useful m$ium = obta9+ int]e/+ & beautiful effects4 ,! lea!r1 :e!r b>k- or alum-tann$1 %\ld be c>efully damp5$1 & !n /5cill$ ) a pa/e conta9+ ,basic colors dissolv$ ) a drop ( acetic acid4 ,on dry+1 ! lea!r %\ld be f9i%$ z usual4 ,! ,acid colors are n ne>ly s satisfactory = /5cill+1 al?\gh1 z already m5tion$1 !y are (t5 advantage\s = dye+1 r ?an /a9+1 lea!r fa/ colors4 7b7 ,silk4--,silk may easily be /5cill$ provid$ ! patt]n is n expect$ to be fa/ to wa%+4 #a4 ,acid ,colors4--,^! dyes1 mix$ ) a few drops ( =mic or acetic acid1 w color x well1 b to make ! dye/uff p5etrate x is advisable to /eam ! goods4 ,?is c be done ) a teakettle provid$ ) a w+ tip = ! sp\t1 made ( t91 or by heat+ a flatiron or iron plate v hot1 & press+ ! /5cill$ goods back d[n aga9/ x1 ) a damp clo? 9 betwe54 ,! hot /eam ?us produc$1 pass+ ?r\gh ! goods1 melts ! pa/e & drives ! color d[n into ! fibres & sets x !re1 s t1 lat]1 ! /5cill$ goods w /& light r9s+ 9 lukew>m soap & wat] )\t runn+4 #b4 ,salt ,colors4--,fa/] results c be obta9$1 on silk1 ) a pa/e conta9+ salt dyes1 ) a drop or two ( acetic acid1 provid$ ! silk is ?or\ghly /eam$ aft]w>ds4 #c4 ,basic ,colors4--,basic dyes may be us$ on silk z on wool1 lea!r1 or any o!r animal fibres = direct application1 ! dye/uff dissolv$ ) a drop ( acetic acid1 be+ add$ to ! pa/e1 & !n bru%$ 9 &1 pref]ably1 lightly /eam$ to s9k ! pa/e d[n into ! fibres4 ,^! dyes1 h[ev]1 ) b few exceptions1 are n fa/ to light1 & appli$ 9 ?is way are n fa/1 ei!r1 to wa%+4 ,by add+ "s reag5ts to ! pa/e1 h[ev]1 a ,basic /5cil pa/e c be =m$ :i* gives colors on silk :i* w /& active scrubb+ excell5tly4 ,! ,basic ,/5cil ,pa/e is prep>$ by mix+ ) ! pa/e a solution conta9+ ! ,basic color1 dissolv$ 9 acetic acid1 & also conta9+ a consid]able quantity ( tannic acid4 ,z long z !re is free acetic acid pres5t 9 ?is mixture ! color rema9s 9 solution1 b directly ! acid is driv5 (f1 an insoluble comp\nd rema9s1 =m$ by ! comb9ation ( ! tannic acid ) ! color base4 ,?is happ5s on /eam+1 & ! insolubility ( ! product is /ill fur!r increas$ by pass+ x ?r\gh a weak ba? or wett+ x ) a weak solution 7half a teaspoonful to ! qu>t7 ( t>t> emetic4 ,accord+ly1 to use ?is /5cil pa/e on silk or1 inde$1 on cotton1 ! slightly damp5$ goods are /5cill$ ) ! pa/e1 ?9n$ if desir$ ) wat] & a little acetic acid4 ,!n directly !y are dry en\gh s z n to run !y are well /eam$1 !n ! gum r9s$ (f ) a little w>m wat]1 & ! goods moi/5$ ) ! t>t> emetic4 ,aft] ?is !y c be wa%$ ) soap ) little or no dang] ( runn+4 7c7 ,wool4--,wool is r>ely /5cill$1 al?\gh /5cil patt]ns c be produc$ v well on x by us+ acid colors ) a little oxalate ( ammonia 7ab\t ! same am\nt z ! dye/uff71 dissolv$ 9 a drop or two ( wat]1 & ?ick5$ ) a little gum tragacan?4 ,:5 ?is pa/e is appli$ ) a bru%1 & !n dri$1 ! result is n fa/ at all1 m]ely a di/9ct /a92 b if /eam$ at once ! oxalate ( ammonia decomposes1 leav+ oxalic acid1 :i*1 comb9+ ) ! color & melt+ d[n ) x 9 ! fibres1 makes ! dye/uff adh]e q firmly4 7d7 ,cotton & ,l954--,x is mu* m difficult to /5cil satisfactorily on vegetable goods1 su* z cotton & l951 ?an on ! animal fibres above m5tion$1 because !y are expect$ to /& v mu* m sev]e treatm5t4 ,! fa/ness to wa%+ ne$$ = a h&some silk sc>f is f> less ?an = a cotton %irtwai/1 or l95 table-cov]1 & unless ! results on ! latt] are at lea/ z fa/ z ! av]age calico pr9t1 ! result is consid]$ a failure4 ,!re are ?ree classes ( dyes :i* c be us$ 9 ?is connection1 ! ,basic dyes1 ! ,sulphur dyes1 & ! ,indigo or ,vat dyes4 ,! ,basic /5cil pa/es h j be5 describ$1 9 connection ) silk /5cill+1 & :5 c>efully us$ !y w give v fair results on cotton1 & ev5 on l951 provid$ x is free f dress+1 & is n too co>se & ?ick4 ,x is h>dly wor? :ile try+ to fa/5 ,basic dyes1 by h& /5cill+1 ^u su* mat]ials z heavy1 co>se ,russian cra%1 = in/ance1 su* z fri5ds & /ud5ts h frequ5tly br\ght 9 to exp]im5t )4 ,b = light1 ?9 mat]ials1 & especially = m]c]iz$ goods1 popl9s & ! l1 x is possible1 ) a little practice1 to get effects t are fa/ to ord9>y wa%+4 ,on ! o!r h&1 ?is me?od ( /5cill+ has c]ta9 disadvantages4 ,x is r complicat$1 ne$+ ! use ( a fix+ ba? ( t>t> emetic1 a v active poison1 by ! way1 al?\gh m uncom=table ?an actually dang]\s :5 tak5 by mi/ake 9 "o dose1 because ( ! sev]e vomit+ x produces almo/ imm$iately4 ,& !n1 too1 ! results at be/ are n really fa/ to light1 & 9 ! case ( light p9ks & yell[s are di/9ctly fugitive4 ,vat ,color ,/5cil ,pa/es4--,_m exp]im5ts h be5 made 9 our laboratory to "w out a satisfactory /5cil pa/e1 s t ,indigo & o!r ,vat dyes c\ld be appli$1 simply & easily1 ) no m difficulty ?an ! usual "o ( bru%+ ! pa/e 9 c>efully1 & !n /eam+ z soon z possible4 ,9 ^! /5cil pa/es ! ,indigo & ! o!r ,vat dyes are r$uc$ ) ! aid ( cau/ic alkali & hydrosulphite be=e be+ mix$ ) ! pa/e1 & "s special precautions are tak5 to prev5t1 z f> z possible1 ! oxidation ( ! dye/uff be=e x gets well into ! fibre4 ,b1 z ! ord9>y hydrosulphite is apt to decompose on /&+1 especially :5 x is wet1 x is always be/1 j be=e us+1 to mix well ) ! pa/e a little fre% r$uc+ ag5t1 dissolv$ 9 a drop ( hot wat]4 ,! r$uc+ ag5t t %\ld be us$ = ?is purpose is n ! ord9>y hydrosulphite ( soda1 us$ = vat dye+1 b a comp\nd ( sodium hydrosulphite1 8,/5cil ,salt10 :i* has ! prop]ty ( keep+ bett] ?an ! o!r1 & also ( n act+ z a r$uc+ ag5t until x is heat$4 ,?is1 !n1 is /irr$ into ! ,vat color /5cil pa/e1 j be=e us+1 & !n1 :5 ! goods are /eam$1 ! heat & moi/ure comb9$ w enable x to r$uce ! color1 :i* w be c>ri$ into ! fibres 9 a r$uc$ & dissolv$ condition4 ,aft] /eam+ well = five m9utes ! color %\ld be develop$ by a ba? 9 hot soapsuds1 aft] :i* ! goods %\ld be r9s$ & dri$4 ,) c>e ?is process w give v satisfactory results1 p]fectly fa/ to bo? light & wa%+1 aft] ! fir/ loose color has be5 wa%$ (f4 ,! indigo /5cil pa/e1 z prep>$1 w keep well r$uc$ = q a long "t1 & x is frequ5tly q unnecess>y to add any fre% r$uc+ ag5t to x4 ,if1 :5 tak5 f ! tube or bottle1 x looks yell[ or yell[i% gre51 x c be appli$ at once to ! clo?1 &1 if /eam$ j z soon z possible1 x w g5]ally p5etrate q satisfactorily4 ,) ! o!r colors ( ! s]ies1 h[ev]1 x is h>d to tell by ! color :e!r !y are r$uc$ or n1 & h5ce ! fre% r$uc+ ag5t1 ,/5cil ,salt1 %\ld always be add$ to !m4 ,! clo? = /5cill+ ) ^! pa/es1 z ) ! ,basic pa/es1 %\ld n be too ?ick or heavy1 & mu/ be wa%$ q free f dress+1 or ! result w n be satisfactory4 ,x %\ld also be slightly damp5$1 if only by hold+ ov] boil+ wat] = a mom5t or two1 s z to help ! color to p5etrate4 ,sulphur ,/5cil ,pa/e4--,we h also f\nd v satisfactory results f pa/es made ) "o ( ! ,sulphur colors1 dissolv$ 9 a little sodium sulphide & sodium c>bonate1 & /iff5$ ) a little gum4 ,! pres5ce ( a r$uc+ ag5t helps to keep ! color r$uc$2 &1 :5 quickly appli$ & rapidly /eam$1 ! colors w s9k into ! fibre & adh]e firmly4 ,! *ief drawback ) ^! pa/es is ! lack ( a good r$4 ,black ,/5cil ,pa/e4--,s f> z c be le>n$1 ! ,japanese use = _! /5cill+ an ,indigo pa/e made on ! same g5]al pr9ciples z ! "o j describ$4 ,besides ?is1 :i* is a v favorite color ( !irs1 !y use a r$ & also a v full black dye1 bo? ( :i* are fa/ to wa%+ & to light4 ,:at ! composition ( ^! la/ pa/es may be x is h>d to tell4 ,9 our laboratory we h made c>eful exp]im5ts on ! subject ( /5cill+ black1 & h work$ out a me?od t we consid] satisfactory by ! use ( a modification ( ! well-kn[n ,anil9e ,black process4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ai--,,l>ge ,,& ,,h&some ,,japanese ,,/5cil1 ,,%[+ ,,use ,,( ,,net ,anil9e ,black4--,x 0 notic$1 e>ly 9 ! hi/ory ( dye/uffs1 t if anil9e 0 mix$ ) /rong oxidiz+ ag5ts1 & c>efully heat$1 x w\ld und]go a s]ies ( color *anges result+1 f9ally1 9 black4 ,?is color1 s-call$ 8,anil9e ,black10 0 at "o "t manufactur$ & us$ = a black pigm5t2 b x 0 soon recogniz$ t its real value w\ld only be develop$ :5 x c\ld be =m$1 9 ! fibre itself1 by ! oxidation ( anil9e or "s comp\nd ( anil9e ^u ! fibres4 ,aft] _m ye>s ( exp]im5t+ ?is problem 0 solv$1 & = fifte5 or tw5ty ye>s ! blacks mo/ us$ on cotton & l95 by ! calico pr9t]s1 z well z by ! dy]s1 h be5 "o or ano!r ( ! =ms ( ,anil9e ,black4 ,! pr9ciple on :i* ^! processes are bas$ is z foll[s3 ,! anil9e1 usually 9 ! =m ( anil9e salt 7anil9e hydro*loride71 is mix$ ) an oxidiz+ ag5t l *lorate ( soda1 & also ) a small am\nt ( a ?ird sub/ance :i*1 on /eam+1 acts z a c>ri] ( oxyg5 betwe5 ! anil9e & ! *lorate4 ,?is sub/ance1 (t5 call$ a catalytic ag5t1 because at ! end ( ! op]ation x rema9s un*ang$1 al?\gh x has accompli%$ a l>ge am\nt ( "w1 may be "o ( a numb] ( comp\nds z1 = in/ance1 a salt ( ! metal vanadium1 prussiate ( pota%1 a salt ( copp]1 etc41 ea* "o hav+ special advantages & disadvantages ( its own4 ,n[1 almo/ any pr9t+ pa/e prop]ly compos$ s z to give a good cle> ,anil9e ,black on /eam+1 7! =mul c be obta9$ f any good book on calico pr9t+1 or f any compet5t dye+ *emi/71 w g5]ally "w fairly well z a /5cil pa/e--z long z x is fre%4 ,b ev5 :5 kept f ! air z f> z possible1 9 a tight tube1 x decomposes on /&+ & becomes v unsatisfactory4 ,besides ?is1 !re is always a difficulty ) ^! regul> pa/es on acc\nt ( ! irregul> & unc]ta9 /eam+ process t c be us$ by ! av]age craftsman4 ,9 a calico pr9t works1 ! temp]ature ( ! /eam *e/1 ! proportion ( /eam 9 x1 & ! l5g? ( passage ( ! clo? ?r\gh x1 are all accurately det]m9$1 & kept at ! exact po9ts necess>y = ! be/ results ) any giv5 =mula4 ,b ) irregul> /eam+1 unless v great c>e is tak5 ) ! =mula1 !re is always a dang] ( 8t5d]+0 & burn+ ! fibre1 if too mu* oxidiz+ ag5t is pres5t1 or ( n develop+ a full black1 b a d>k gre5 color1 if ! oxidiz+ ag5t is n active en\gh4 ,we h1 aft] a great deal ( exp]im5t+1 work$ out a =mula :i*1 ) reasonable c>e 9 /eam+1 w give a good full black1 absolutely fa/ to light & wa%+1 ^u cotton1 l951 & silk1 )\t any t5d]+ ( ! clo?4 ,&1 by divid+ up ! compon5t p>ts into two sep>ate pa/es1 :i* are kept 9 sep>ate tubes or bottles1 & are mix$ toge!r only :5 ab\t to be us$1 we h gone f> to solve ! important problem ( keep+4 ,! use ( ?is ,black /5cil pa/e is v simple4 ,x comes 9 two tubes or bottles m>k$ ,a & ,b4 ,:5 ! clo?1 free f dress+ & slightly damp5$1 is all ready1 equal am\nts are tak5 f ea* ( ! two tubes1 & mix$ toge!r 9 a wat*-glass or small glass or porcela9 di% )1 if necess>y1 a drop ( wat] to s(t5 !m if !y h dri$ up at all4 ,?is mix$ pa/e is !n bru%$ on to1 & into1 ! clo?1 &1 z soon z dry1 is /eam$ z be=e describ$4 ,! black color w develop almo/ imm$iately1 &1 aft] a few m9utes' /eam+1 w be f\nd fa/ to h>d wa%+ z well z to light4 ,,*apt] ,,xvi ,,resi/ ,,& ,,dis*>ge ,,/5cill+ ,travel]s 9 ,japan in=m u t1 ) _! cu/om>y +5uity1 ! natives !re h develop$ ! use ( /5cils to a po9t :i* q mat*es ! be/ a*ievem5ts ( our mod]n calico pr9t]s1 ev5 ?\gh back$ by good dye+ *emi/s4 ,:5 a "y lady !re wi%es a new dress1 %e w draw1 p]haps ) ! help ( h] be/ "y man1 & c]ta9ly ) ! advice & criticism ( h] family1 h] favorite design on a piece ( br[n pap]1 cut x out 9 /5cil =m1 & s5d x to ! local dy]1 ) ! prop] am\nt ( calico or silk or :at n1 to be prop]ly appli$4 ,n[1 9 mo/ cases ! dy] is in/ruct$ to put ! patt]n on ! clo? 9 colors1 blue1 black1 r$1 yell[1 or mix$ %ades1 & ?is he does1 mu* z my read]s 7 taught to d 9 ! la/ *apt]1 by pa9t+ on a /5cil pa/e1 to be fix$ lat] by /eam+4 ,! ,japanese dy]1 by ! way1 has a great advantage ov] ! ,am]ican craftsman 9 8 /eam+ app>atus4 ,no matt] h[ small 8 place1 or h[ poor 8 equipm5t1 he always is provid$ ) a neat & satisfactory /eam *e/1 consi/+ ( a copp] pot set 9 a brick or /one fireplace1 to hold ! boil+ wat]1 & above x1 a close-fitt+ box ) sides made ( lacqu]$ pap]1 d\ble jacket$ to avoid cond5sation 9 cold wea!r1 :i* c be kept full ( dry /eam = h\rs at a "t1 & 9 :i* ! /5cill$ goods c be /eam$ ?or\ghly & well )\t fe> ( spoil+ !m4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 ! color is to be appli$ 9 ano!r way2 ! clo? itself is to be color$ blue or r$ or black1 & ! patt]n is to be light1 ei!r pure :ite or "s light color on a d>k backgr\nd4 ,! ,japanese dy]1 f "t immemorial1 has kn[n h[ to d ?is prop]ly1 by means ( a 8,resi/40 ,he prep>es a resi/ pa/e :i* he c>efully applies to ! clo? ?r\gh ! /5cil4 ,?is is all[$ to dry1 ! clo? is !n dy$1 &1 aft] ! color is prop]ly fix$1 x is all ?or\ghly scrubb$1 & ! pa/e1 wa%+ (f1 leaves ! clo?1 und]nea?1 9 its orig9al color4 ,resi/ ,/5cil ,pa/e4--,?is process ( resi/1 anci5t z x is1 is us$ 9 ,japan to ?is day1 & _m1 inde$ mo/1 ( ! /5cill$ t[els & piece goods t come f !re are done 9 ?is way4 ,x has ! advantages1 especially = ! craftsman1 ov] ! ,direct ,color process1 9 t ! color1 be+ appli$ 9 a dye-ba?1 c be fix$ readily & uni=mly1 )\t ! bo!r & unc]ta9ty ( a /eam+ process4 ,?r\gh a fri5d1 a well-kn[n dye+ *emi/1 :o has travell$ 9 ,japan1 ,i le>n$ ! composition ( ! ,japanese ,resi/ ,pa/e4 ,!y mix rice fl\r1 :eat bran1 & a little quicklime 7! calcium oxide ( ! *emi/7 ) wat] & boil x to make a pa/e4 ,?is !y /ra91 & !n !y /ir 9 "s p[d]$ c>bonate ( lime 7p[d]$ *alk71 :i* ?ick5s & gives "s body to ! mixture4 ,! pa/e ?us =m$ is appli$1 z a rule1 n ) a bru% b ) a flat wood5 in/rum5t or spatula1 ) :i* ! pa/e is laid on z ) a tr[el1 & fur!r1 to get ! dead :ite effects s commonly notic$1 ! pa/e is put on ! back ( ! clo? z well z on ! front4 ,my fri5d also expla9$ to me h[ ! ,japanese 7 able to get irregul> %ad$ effects ) _! /5cil "w1 & at ! same "t to furni% su* beautiful & intricate h&-made "w1 at su* absurdly l[ prices4 ,^! goods are made ( v ?9 por\s mat]ials1 & ! dy] applies ) 8 tr[el ! ?ick resi/ pa/e1 ?r\gh ! /5cil1 to "o piece aft] ano!r1 lay+ ea* "o1 z fa/ z x is /5cill$1 c>efully on top ( ! previ\s "o1 until a pile has be5 =m$ ( t5 or m sep>ate pieces4 ,?is pile is press$ v tightly toge!r1 & !n ! dye/uff1 z1 = in/ance1 ,indigo 9 solution & ?or\ghly r$uc$1 is p\r$ on to ?is mass ( goods1 soak+ ?r\gh f "o to ! o!r1 b always kept out ( ! :ite p>ts by ! d\ble coat+ ( ?ick pa/e4 ,aft] a few m9utes ^! pieces are c>efully tak5 (f1 "o by "o1 expos$ to ! air until oxidiz$1 & !n ?or\ghly wa%$ until ! pa/e & loose color h all disappe>$4 ,= an example ( ,japanese resi/ /5cil "w1 dy$ 9 an iron spr+1 see ,plate ,,iii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,plate ,v4 ,,japanese ,,t[ell+ ,,dy$ ,,by ,,imm]sion ,,9 ,,iron ,,spr+4 ,,! ,,:ite ,,patt]n ,,is ,,caus$ ,,by ,,resi/ ,,/5cill+ ,resi/ ,/5cill+ ) ,sulphur ,dyes4--,)\t lavi%ly copy+ ! ,japanese practice x is possible to get v int]e/+ results by us+ suitable dye/uffs ) a simpl] pa/e4 ,! mo/ useful dyes = ?is purpose are ! ,sulphur dyes1 :i*1 z ! /ud5t w rememb]1 c be appli$ 9 ! cold1 ) v %ort exposure to ! dye-liquor1 & are fix$ firmly by exposure to ! air1 giv+ results fa/ to light & extremely fa/ to wa%+4 ,a pa/e made f :eat fl\r1 ?ick5$ a little ) an in]t p[d]1 l p[d]$ *alk or z9c oxide1 w "w fairly well1 act+ z a purely me*anical protection to ! fibre4 ,b mu* bett] results c be obta9$ by add+ to ! pa/e z mu* z x w absorb ( ! easily soluble *emical1 z9c sulphate1 :i* acts *emically 9 resi/+ ! action ( ^! p>ticul> dye/uffs4 ,! ,sulphur colors1 z be=e expla9$1 are kept 9 solution 9 ! dye-ba?1 by ! pres5ce ( sodium sulphide1 & :5 ?is is abs5t or is de/roy$ by any cause1 ! dye/uff is precipitat$ z an insoluble1 in]t p[d]4 ,n[1 :5 z9c sulphate comes 9 contact ) sodium sulphide x at once decomposes ! latt]1 =m+ a :ite precipitate1 z9c sulphide1 :i* has no action at all on ei!r dye/uff or clo?4 ,accord+ly a pa/e conta9+ z9c sulphate has f> great] effici5cy z a resi/ ?an any mixture t acts purely me*anically4 ,resi/ /5cil pa/es c be obta9$1 9 tubes1 at mod]ate prices1 b c also be readily prep>$ by mak+ n too /iff a pa/e1 ) :eat fl\r ?or\ghly boil$ ) a saturat$ solution ( z9c sulphate in/ead ( ) wat]1 & !n /irr+ into ?is pa/e "s p[d]$ *alk or z9c oxide1 until ( ! prop] consi/5cy = /5cill+4 ,to use ?is pa/e1 ! clo?1 z usual1 %\ld be wa%$ free f dress+1 & aft] be+ smoo!d ) a hot iron1 %\ld be slightly damp5$4 ,! pa/e is !n bru%$ ?r\gh ! /5cil on to1 & into1 ! clo?1 :i* is !n all[$ to dry4 ,! dye-ba? %\ld !n be prep>$ ( ,sulphur dyes c>efully dissolv$1 9 a sep>ate cup or saucepan1 9 a hot solution ( sodium sulphide & sodium c>bonate 7soda71 & add$ to cold wat] 9 ! dye-ba?4 ,a few drops ( 8,turkey r$ oil0 add$ to ! dye-ba? helps to prev5t a ?ick scum f =m+ on top ( ! liquor1 :ile ! addition ( a tablespoonful ( salt dissolv$ 9 a little hot wat] helps ! rapidity & dep? ( ! dye+4 ,pl5ty ( color %\ld be us$ except+ = v light %ades1 = ! dye+ %\ld be done j z quickly z possible4 ,= silk "s syrup %\ld be add$4 ,! /5cill$ clo? is !n quickly moi/5$ 9 cold wat]1 plac$ 9 ! dye-ba?1 kept !re two or ?ree m9utes1 bel[ ! level ( ! liquid2 x is !n tak5 out1 ! liquor dra9$ (f1 & aft] a m9ute or two1 wrung (f2 ! clo? is !n %ak5 out1 & expos$ to ! air1 = "s t5 m9utes1 to set ! color4 ,aft] ?is x is well wa%$ 9 a boil+ soap ba?1 &1 z ! pa/e wa%es out1 ! /5cill$ patt]n w %[ light aga9/ ! d>k backgr\nd4 ,! :it5ess ( ! patt]n dep5ds1 ( c\rse1 ^u ! skill ) :i* ! pa/e has be5 appli$1 & ! c>e tak5 to prev5t x f wa%+ (f be=e or dur+ ! dye+ process4 ,x is difficult1 ?\gh n absolutely impossible1 to get z %>p & cle>-cut results z ^? ( ! ,japanese1 = in/ance4 ,b1 on ! o!r h&1 ) a d>k backgr\nd x is (t51 inde$ g5]ally1 m pleas+ to h ! :ite patt]ns s(t5$ & n /&+ out too vividly4 ,9 our laboratory we h _h consid]able success ) ?is process4 ,& "s ( our fri5ds & /ud5ts h us$ x ) v good results ^u articles ( clo?+1 :i*1 made ( l951 calico1 etc41 mu/ be fa/ to sev]e wa%+ z well z to light4 ,( c\rse1 x is p]fectly easy to alt] ! color ( ! backgr\nd1 z 9 o!r classes ( resi/ "w1 su* z ,ti$ & ,dy$ "w1 = in/ance1 or ,batik1 by ei!r />t+ (f ) color$ clo? :i* is protect$ all ?r\gh by ! resi/ pa/e1 or else by cov]+ ! /5cill$ & dy$ goods1 aft]w>ds1 ) "s %ade :i* w s(t5 & h>monize bo? patt]n & backgr\nd4 ,= ?is cov]+ %ade1 :i* ne$ n be v fa/ to wa%+1 b mu/ be di/ribut$ uni=mly ov] ! :ole clo?1 ! /ud5t w f9d ! ,salt colors v useful4 ,dis*>ge ,/5cill+4--,?\gh x is n c]ta9 :e!r ?is process is kn[n to1 & us$ by1 ! ,japanese1 x is n a difficult matt]1 ) mod]n dyes & mod]n *emicals1 to get int]e/+ results ) x4 ,!re are two di/9ct & sep>ate ways op5 to ! dy] = dis*>g+1 i4e41 de/roy+ 8 dye/uffs1 :e!r !y are dy$ on clo?1 or :e!r1 z is n infrequ5tly ! case ) amateurs1 !y are pres5t z a /a9 on 8 h&s & f+]s4 ,9 ea* case1 h[ev]1 c>e mu/ be tak51 z may easily be imag9$1 to use su* *emicals z w sp>e ! mat]ials1 :e!r cotton & l951 or nails & sk91 :ile attack+ ! color+ matt]4 7a7 ,dis*>ge by ,oxidation4 ,*lor9e ,comp\nds1 ,blea*+ ,p[d]1 etc4--,9 ! fir/ place1 *emi/s h long kn[n t c]ta9 *emicals1 m p>ticul>ly ! p[]ful gase\s elem5t kn[n z *lor9e & c]ta9 ( its comp\nds1 h ! p[] ( p]man5tly de/roy+ color+ matt]s by oxidiz+ or burn+ !m4 ,at fir/ ?is 0 done by us+ *lor9e itself1 or a wat] solution ( *lor9e4 ,lat]1 h[ev]1 x 0 f\nd t on pass+ *lor9e into "s cau/ic alkali1 l quicklime1 or cau/ic soda1 or cau/ic pota%1 ^! w\ld absorb imm5se quantities ( *lor9e :i* w\ld be aga9 giv5 out1 z desir$1 on ! addition ( acid1 or ev51 ?\gh v sl[ly & gradually1 by ! action ( ! c>bonic acid gas 9 ! air4 ,! lime comp\nd1 :i* conta9s m *lor9e ?an ! o!rs1 & has ! great advantage ( be+ dry1 has long be5 kn[n z *loride ( lime or z blea*+ p[d]1 & has be51 & is1 commonly us$ f "o end ( ! _w to ! o!r z a quick1 ready1 *eap s\rce ( *lor9e ei!r = blea*+ or = dis9fection4 ,! pota% & soda comp\nds1 kn[n respectively z ,lab>raque's solution & ,javelle wat]1 are less active & p[]ful ?an blea*+ p[d]1 b h ! same g5]al prop]ties4 ,ov] a hundr$ ye>s ago1 v soon aft] ! discov]y ( ! blea*+ prop]ties ( ^! comp\nds1 *emi/s began to use !m1 n only = decoloriz+ & :it5+ raw cotton & l95 clo?1 b also = dis*>g+ ! color 9 patt]ns f dy$ goods4 ,! process 0 n a difficult "o1 & is us$ to ?is day to "s ext5t 9 ! calico pr9t+ mills4 ,! clo? is fir/ dy$ to %ade1 fix$1 & dri$4 ,! patt]n is !n pr9t$ on ) a pa/e conta9+ "s solid organic acid1 l citric acid or t>t>ic acid1 dissolv$ 9 x4 ,aft] dry+1 ! pr9t$ clo? is pass$ ?r\gh a ba? ( blea*+ p[d] 9 wat]1 possibly ) a little weak alkali add$1 to be sure t no free *lor9e is pres5t2 & :]ev] ! blea*+ p[d] meets ! acid ! clo? is decoloriz$1 b ! re/ ( ! clo? comes out ( ! ba? )\t be+ mu*1 if at all1 alt]$ 9 color4 ,( c\rse1 on com+ out ( ?is ba? ! clo? mu/ be ?or\ghly wa%$ to get rid ( any traces ( *loride ( lime1 :i* o!rwise1 on exposure to ! air1 w\ld play havoc ) ! re/ ( ! colors4 ,?is process work$ v well ) ! old vegetable dyes1 &1 e n[ & !n1 "s craftsman1 ( an exp]im5tal turn ( m9d1 revives x = /5cil "w4 ,! dy$ clo? is /5cill$ ) a pa/e made ( :eat fl\r boil$ ) a saturat$ solution ( citric acid1 x is dri$1 & !n pass$ ?r\gh a ba? ( blea*+ p[d] 9 wat]1 say two or ?ree tablespoonfuls to ! gallon4 ,x is g5]ally be/ to /ir 9 a few drops ( a soda solution to ! ba?1 till all smell ( *lor9e has gone1 or else ! backgr\nd may be affect$4 ,! /5cill$ clo? is dipp$ 9 ?is ba?1 & kept !re = a few m9utes1 until ! blea*+ process is well "u way1 & !n tak5 out1 & wa%$ 9 hot soap & wat]1 & r9s$ well4 ,advantages & ,disadvantages ( ,blea*+ ,p[d] ,dis*>ge4--,! *ief advantage ( ?is process is t x is v *eap & ! mat]ials c be b\ght at almo/ any groc]y4 ,! disadvantages are1 h[ev]1 important4 ,z long z x is conf9$ to easily dis*>g$1 comp>atively fugitive1 colors1 x w de/roy ! color all "r 9 ! /5cill$ p>ts1 al?\gh ! blea*+ p[d] ba? is apt to attack ! color 9 ! body ( ! clo?1 & ! outl9es ( ! patt]n are apt to be s(t & irregul> because ( ! escap+ *lor9e1 :]e ! citric acid is act+4 ,:51 h[ev]1 v fa/ dyes are be+ us$1 z = in/ance1 ! ,vat colors or1 inde$1 a great _m ( ! be/ dyes 9 all ! classes1 ! action ( *lor9e is v sl[1 & slight1 &1 9 ord] to really de/roy ! color bo? ! acid & ! blea*+ p[d] w (t5 h to be s /rong t ! *lor9e set free w de/roy ! fibre z well4 ,= ! t]m 8fa/ness to light0 implies1 z a rule1 fa/ness also to oxidation 9 g5]al1 & dyes l ! be/ mod]n ones :i* w let ! clo? rot away f "u !m1 :5 long expos$ to ! wea!r )\t *ang+ color1 are v apt also to keep _! color1 ev5 :5 ! clo? is burnt away f "u !m by ! action ( *lor9e4 ,accord+ly1 ?is process is di/9ctly "o t ne$s c>eful exp]im5tation be=e x is tri$ on any important piece ( "w4 ,!re are pl5ty ( dye/uffs among ! ,salt colors1 & also among ! ,sulphur colors1 :i* dis*>ge well ) *lor9e4 ,& ! calico pr9t]1 work+1 z he g5]ally does to ?is day1 ) comp>atively fugitive dyes1 & weigh+ accurately bo? acid & blea*+ p[d]1 c g5]ally get good results ) x4 ,b !re is always ! disadvantage1 t ! lea/ excess ( *lor9e w attack & t5d] ! clo?1 & ! bett] ! dye/uff1 z a rule1 ! /rong] ! oxidiz+ ag5t mu/ be to dis*>ge x4 7b7 ,dis*>ge by ,r$uction1 ,hydrosulphite1 etc4--,! w>y craftsman w f9d ! process mu* less dang]\s to ! clo?1 & n mu* m difficult1 if in/ead ( try+ to oxidize ! dye/uff1 he attempts to dis*>ge x by r$uc+ x2 or1 9 o!r words1 if in/ead ( try+ to burn x out1 he tries to take ! oxyg5 away f x4 ,x s happ5s t 9 a va/ majority ( cases a dye/uff becomes decoloriz$ by r$uc+ x1 j z well z by oxidiz+ x4 ,!re is1 h[ev]1 a diff]5ce4 ,:5 ! color is oxidiz$1 x is burnt up & de/roy$ =ev]4 ,:5 x is r$uc$1 h[ev]1 x is1 9 _m cases1 only decoloriz$ & n de/roy$2 & on /&+ 9 ! air x is apt to take up oxyg5 aga91 & to rega9 "s1 at lea/1 ( ! orig9al color4 ,on ! o!r h&1 :ile any oxidation process is liable to attack ! clo? z well z ! color1 ! r$uc+ ag5ts n[ 9 use h no effect ^u ! mat]ials1 ev5 :5 p[]ful en\gh to act on ! v fa/e/ dye/uffs4 ,z be=e m5tion$1 ! mo/ satisfactory r$uc+ ag5t at pres5t kn[n to dy]s is hydrosulphite ( soda1 & ?is c be incorporat$ 9 a pa/e1 & us$ = dis*>ge /5cill+4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 z a rule1 m satisfactory to use ! m exp5sive1 b m p]man5t hydrosulphite comp\nd1 describ$1 9 ! la/ *apt]1 z act+ only :5 heat$4 ,! r$uc+ /5cil pa/e c be easily made by mix+ ) "s 8gum dragon0 or fl\r pa/e1 z mu* z x w hold ( a saturat$ solution ( ! 8,/5cil ,salt40 ,! /ud5t %\ld exp]im5t ) ! diff]5t dyes & classes ( dyes be=e attempt+ a s]i\s piece ( "w2 b 9 g5]al1 all ! ,salt colors & ! ,acid colors w dis*>ge readily ) ?is pa/e1 & rema9 colorless4 ,! ,vat colors & ! ,sulphur colors c also be r$uc$ to colorless comp\nds1 b x is n always easy to wa% !m out ( ! clo? aft] ! r$uction1 &1 if !y rema9 9 x1 !y are apt to rega9 _! color1 on /&+ 9 ! air4 ,! dy$ clo?1 c>efully wa%$ & press$ & damp5$1 is /5cill$ ) ! above pa/e & all[$ to dry4 ,:5 dry x is /eam$1 z describ$ 9 ! la/ *apt]1 & x w be notic$ t :5 a c]ta9 temp]ature is rea*$ ! color w be dis*>g$4 ,z soon z possible aft]w>ds ! clo? is to be wa%$ 9 a hot soap ba? to remove ! r$uc$ color comp\nd 7:i*1 z a rule1 has little aff9ity = ! clo?7 & to get rid ( ! pa/e4 ,!n ! clo? is dri$ & f9i%$4 ,:5 try+ ?is process ) ! ,vat dyes x is be/ to soak ! clo? directly aft] /eam+1 & be=e soap+1 9 a w>m ba? conta9+ a little free cau/ic soda 7rememb] ?is is apt to burn ! f+]s7 because ! r$uc$ colors ( ?is class are n1 z a rule1 soluble 9 wat]1 & are apt to oxidize aga9 9 a soap ba?4 ,results4--,9 foll[+ up ^! v>i\s exp]im5ts 9 our laboratory we h n us$ ?is process 9 mu* z ! ,resi/ /5cill+1 b !re is no reason :y x %\ld n give j z good results4 ,inde$1 ! craftsman w probably f9d1 aft] a little practice1 t x is easi] to get cle> :ite patt]ns ) ?is ?an ) ! o!r4 ,x has ! disadvantage ( requir+ ! r bo!rsome /eam+ process1 :i* r$uces its value = _m purposes4 ,/ill x w (t5 be f\nd t simply iron+ ! dri$ /5cill$ clo? ) a hot flatiron1 ) a damp clo? betwe51 w cause ! r$uction to take place q satisfactorily4 ,! *ief advantage ( ?is process ov] ! o!r is t1 z ! dye+ is done be=e & n aft] ! /5cill+1 x is possible to get ! exact %ade ( backgr\nd requir$4 ,:ile1 9 ! resi/ /5cill+ e m9ute1 almo/ inde$ e second t ! /5cill$ goods are left 9 ! dye-ba?1 is liable to obscure ! patt]n4 ,& x is h>d to get fir/-class results1 z reg>ds fa/ness to rubb+ & wa%+1 & x is impossible to mat* %ades1 :5 work+ s hurri$ly4 ,!n1 too1 ?is dis*>ge process p]mits ! use ( almo/ e color on ! li/1 :ile ! resi/ process practically conf9es ! craftsman to ! use ( ! ,sulphur dyes only4 ,^? :o are int]e/$ 9 ?is l9e ( "w are advis$ to try ^! two processes ^u silk1 :]e v beautiful & int]e/+ effects c be produc$ ) b little difficulty4 ,! resi/ process1 us+ ,sulphur colors1 gives quiet s(t tones on silk1 fa/ to ! h>de/ k9d ( wa%+4 ,b bright] %ades1 equally fa/ to light1 & fairly fa/ to wa%+1 c be made ) ! dis*>ge process by us+ ,salt colors4 ,= ord9>y "w ! ,acid dyes1 ( c\rse1 w\ld be us$1 & ^!1 too1 z a rule1 dis*>ge readily4 ,,*apt] ,,xvii ,,batik ,! la/ & p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ & mo/ important process to :i* we %all call our read]'s att5tion is "o :i*1 aft] be+ practis$ 9 ! ,ea/ = _m c5turies1 has be5 br\ght q rec5tly to ! att5tion ( ,european & ,am]ican craftsm54 ,! t]m 8,batik0 is a ,javanese ^w1 signify+ pa9t+ 9 wax1 & ! process1 some:at modifi$1 is kn[n to pr(essional dy]s & calico-pr9t]s by ! "n ( 8wax resi/40 ,:5 9 ! h&s ( a tra9$ draughtsman ! process has a *>m & "* ( its own1 :i* w w>rant ! int]e/ n[ manife/$ 9 x1 :]ev] x has be5 introduc$4 ,hi/ory4--,batik 0 fir/ introduc$ by ! ,dut* discov]]s ( ,java1 :o1 9 #afdh1 s5t home descriptions1 ) draw+s1 ( ! wond]fully beautiful textiles worn by ! p1 especially by ! *iefs ( t c\ntry4 ,! art 0 kn[n & practis$ 9 ! ,ea/ long be=e t "t1 = 9 ,madras goods 7 made1 by a comb9ation ( block pr9t+ & ,batik1 at lea/ z e>ly z ! fifte5? c5tury4 ,& 9 ! int]ior ( ,java !re are "s fam\s old ru9s 9 :i* are f\nd /one /atues ( ,buddha1 suppos$ to be at lea/ #a1bjj or #a1cjj ye>s old1 clo!d 9 g>m5ts ! same z ^? us$ at ! pres5t day2 & %[+1 f _! decorations1 t !y 7 ornam5t$ by ,batik 9 ! same g5]al /yle ( patt]ns t are /ill popul> !re4 ,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s v c>eful /udies h be5 made1 especially by ! ,dut* ,gov]nm5t1 ^u ?is ,javanese process1 & !y h endeavor$ to introduce x into ,europe4 ,x 0 amus+ to notice t 9 "o ( ! reports issu$ by ! ,dut* ,gov]nm5t on ?is subject x 0 /at$ t none ( ! mod]n dye/uffs c\ld be utiliz$ = ?is purpose1 & t ! only colors t c\ld be recomm5d$ z fa/ to light 7 ! old vegetable dye/uffs1 appli$ 9 ! complicat$ & tr\blesome me?ods ( pa/ ages4 ,?is curi\sly unsci5tific attitude has s]i\sly int]f]$ ) ! success ( ! process 9 ,we/]n l&s1 & is only n[ be+ ab&on$4 ,javanese ,practice4--,detail$ in=mation ab\t ! hi/ory1 te*nique1 & designs ( ! ,javanese process has be5 set d[n 9 a monum5tal "w3 8,die ,batikkun/ 9 ,ni$]l&is* ,indi510 publi%$ 9 ,h>lem "u ! auspices ( ! ,dut* ,gov]nm5t 9 #ahii4 ,p]haps ( m int]e/ to ! non-sci5tific read] is a %ort b well-writt5 acc\nt ( 8,battack ,pr9t+ 9 ,java10 read be=e ! ,man*e/] ,lit]>y & ,philosophical ,society 9 #aijf by an ,engli% *emi/1 ,john ,allan1 :o sp5t sev]al mon?s among ! natives1 /udy+ ! process at fir/-h&4 ,accord+ to ^! au?orities ! ,javanese &1 inde$1 mo/ ( ! natives ( ,malaysia1 we> g>m5ts simple en\gh 9 /yle & cut1 b elaborately decorat$ ) great v>iety ( bo? color & design4 ,! pr9cipal g>m5t1 common to bo? m5 & wom51 is ! s>ong1 9 %ape n unlike a l>ge & elongat$ ba? t[el1 :i*1 accord+ to ! desire & sex ( ! own]1 may be made to s]ve z tr\s]s or skirt1 ov]coat or blanket1 & is ! univ]sal ba?+ co/ume4 ,x is made ( calico1 r>ely homespun1 almo/ always import$ f ,lanca%ire or ,holl&1 & z ! natives1 bo? m5 & wom51 are exce$+ly fond ( ba?+1 ! colors mu/ be fa/ en\gh to /& con/ant exposure to wat] z well z to ! fi]ce tropical sun4 ,!y also we> head-dresses made f squ>es ( calico1 dy$ ) squ>e c5tres ( pla9 color & elaborately decorat$ at ! sides2 & sl5dangs1 a k9d ( girdle or %awl1 usually made ( silk & less elaborately decorat$4 ,! co/ume is complet$1 = full-dress occasions1 by a ?9 %irt or *emise & a light jacket4 ,= produc+ ! designs on ! s>ongs1 ! process ( wax resi/ is almo/ always employ$ by ! natives4 ,un=tunately ( late ye>s ! ,javanese m>ket has be5 flood$ ) an imm5se quantity ( *eap &1 g5]ally1 neatly pr9t$ goods made 9 ,man*e/] & 9 ,holl& 9 r\gh imitation ( ! native /yles4 ,s x is n an easy matt]1 n[adays1 ev5 9 ,java1 to get g5u9e specim5s ( ,batik "w4 ,^! c always be recogniz$1 h[ev]1 on c>eful exam9ation by ! peculi> & *>act]i/ic odor & 8feel0 ( ! wax left beh9d 9 ! clo?1 &1 bett]1 by ! f9e irregul> 8crackle0 =m$ 9 ! dye-pot4 ,v>iations 9 ! ,process4--,al?\gh !re are diff]5t me?ods1 ! ,batik process1 z usually meant1 is a means ( dye+ 9 :i*1 be=e imm]s+ ! goods 9 ! dye-pot1 ! patt]ns are c>efully drawn 9 molt5 beeswax1 appli$ f a little copp] cup ) a f9e sp\t call$ a tjant+4 ,frequ5tly1 h[ev]1 to save "t1 ! ,javanese apply ! wax by means ( a metal die or block1 made by ins]t+ ?9 /rips ( %eet brass 9 a wood5 frame1 s t ! edges ( ! brass =m ! desir$ patt]n4 ,^! blocks1 provid$ ) a h&le cov]$ ) clo?1 are fir/ dipp$ into ! molt5 wax1 & !n ! excess is remov$ by press+ aga9/ a pad1 :i* is kept w>m by be+ ne> ! fire ( ! melt+ pot4 ,! patt]n is ?us /amp$ onto ! clo? in/ead ( be+ p\r$ onto x1 ?r\gh a small sp\t1 out ( a cup4 ,?is ,batik process is sometimes us$ by native craftsm5 9 o!r p>ts ( ! ,f> ,ea/4 ,plate ,i1 = in/ance1 %[s a specim5 ( ,ea/ ,indian "w1 "p ( a long piece ( /\t cotton b\ght1 ye>s ago1 at ,lib]ty's 9 ,london1 ) an elaborate design made ) molt5 wax1 appli$ by bru% or tjant+4 ,ev5 9 ! plate ! *>act]i/ic #8crackle' %[s pla9ly4 ,wax4--,9 ,java1 ! wax us$ = p\r+ is a mixture ( p>aff9 & beeswax1 or an impure wax import$ f ,japan = ?is purpose4 ,= /amp+ ! patt]ns x is necess>y to use a /iff] wax made f ros9 & p>aff91 sometimes mix$ ) v>ni% gums4 ,dyes4--,! pr9cipal colors us$ are indigo & a beautiful gold5-br[n dye made f ! b>k ( ! mango tree4 ,! comb9ation ( ^! gives a black1 s t ! f9e old s>ongs usually conta9 :ite1 blue1 br[n1 & black4 ,indigo is dy$ fir/1 &1 be=e dye+1 all ! clo?1 except+ t :i* is to come out blue or black1 is c>efully cov]$ ) ! wax4 ,aft] ! indigo ba? 7! ,javanese use a f]m5tation vat7 ! color is set by oxidation4 ,! old wax is !n all wa%$ (f ) boil+ soap & wat]1 & aft] dry+1 ! wax is aga9 appli$ to all p>ts1 :e!r :ite or blue1 :i* are n to receive ! br[n dye4 ,! latt] is made f a /rong1 syrupy extract ( b>k1 & is us$ )\t mordant+1 ! color be+ set by exposure to air4 ,z ! dyes mu/ be us$ cold1 to avoid melt+ & oblit]at+ ! patt]n1 ! goods are usually dipp$ 9 ea* dye-ba? & expos$1 sev]al times1 be=e rea*+ ! desir$ %ade4 ,aft] ! f9al dye+1 ! wax is remov$ by a hot ba? ( wood a%es or soap1 & ! g>m5t is press$ out ready to we>4 ,:5 a r$ color is desir$1 ! natives use a v>iation ( ! old ,turkey r$ process1 dye+ ) madd] or munjeet ^u clo? mordant$ ) alum & oil4 ,! wax 9 ?is case acts z a resi/ aga9/ ! alum mordant1 :i* is appli$ cold1 & ?us prev5ts ! dye/uff1 :i* is appli$ at ! boil1 f color+ ! clo? 9 ! protect$ portions4 ,clo?4--,! clo? us$ = ?is ,batik process is /rong common calico1 b1 be=e beg9n+ to wax x1 !y give x a c>eful treatm5t1 to improve bo? its texture & its gr\nd color4 ,= a p]iod ( sev]al days !y alt]nately soak x 9 ca/or oil1 wr+ x out1 boil out ! oil ) soda lye1 & expose x to ! blaz+ sun2 until f9ally x becomes s(t & smoo?1 & has a pleasant tan color :i* goes excell5tly ) ! br[n1 blue1 & black dyes4 ,! peculi>ity ( all ^! ,batik goods1 :e!r f ! ,ea/ or made at home or 9 ,europe1 is ! *>act]i/ic 8crackle0 effect1 due to ! break+ ( ! wax ^u ! clo? 9 ! process ( dye+1 !reby admitt+ ! color to ! protect$ clo? 9 f9e l9es & /reaks4 ,?is di/+ui%es ! wax resi/ "w f ! previ\sly describ$ pa/e resi/1 :i* if desir$ w leave a smoo?1 clean1 :ite backgr\nd1 or if appli$ m lightly w give backgr\nds %ad$ m uni=mly & )\t s _m irregul> l9es ( color4 ,?is crackle effect1 s g5]ally admir$ 9 ! ,we/1 is (t5 by ! ,javanese consid]$ a defect1 & a sign ( poor workman%ip4 ,x c be l>gely1 if n :olly1 avoid$ by add+ a l>ge proportion ( ros9 to ! wax1 by batik+ ! clo? on bo? sides1 & by dye+ ! goods ) z little crumpl+ z possible4 ,,mod]n ,,batik ,! application ( ! artificial dye/uffs to ?is anci5t process has simplifi$ x greatly1 & has br\ght x )9 ! scope ( craftsm5 9 g5]al4 ,app>atus--,bru%es4--,y w soon f9d t = a good deal ( ! "w1 su* z cov]+ l>ge surfaces ) wax1 or fill+ 9 l>ge & bold designs1 a small-siz$ pa9t bru% is all t is necess>y4 ,! wax is melt$ 9 a cup or cass]ole1 & pa9t$ on ! clo? :]ev] ! design calls = x4 ,x w be f\nd1 h[ev]1 no easy matt] to get %>p & cle> outl9es 9 ?is way1 & intricate or delicate patt]ns _c be work$ out by ! bru% only4 ,:5 ! wax is hot1 x is h>d to prev5t x f spread+ & runn+ too f> ov] ! clo?1 &1 on ! o!r h&1 x cools s rapidly on ! bru% t1 unless appli$ at once1 x is h>d to spread x at all1 & ! wax is liable n to /ick to ! clo?4 ,mu* is sav$ bo? 9 "t & 9 accuracy & cle>ness ( outl9e1 by us+ ! bru% 9 comb9ation ) ! tjant+1 draw+ ! outl9es ) ! latt]1 & fill+ 9 ) ! bru%4 ,:5 l>ge surfaces h be5 cov]$ ) ! wax1 & ! *>act]i/ic 8crackle0 effect is desir$1 x is (t5 well to cool ! goods1 by plac+ !m 9 ! ice box or out ( doors = a few m9utes1 & !n to crumple !m 9 ! h&s1 be=e dye+ !m4 ,! composition ( ! wax1 also1 has mu* to d ) ?is "p ( ! "w1 z w be expla9$ lat]4 ,! bru% c also be employ$ = pa9t+ molt5 wax on to ! goods ?r\gh a /5cil1 9 resi/ /5cil "w4 ,?is1 h[ev]1 is n satisfactory1 ev5 ) metallic /5cils1 & fails completely ) pap] /5cils1 because ! wax1 on cool+1 fa/5s /5cil & clo? toge!r s t !y _c be sep>at$ )\t injury4 ,x is mu* bett] practice1 :]e a /5cil design is to be work$ ) wax resi/1 to make an outl9e ( ! design on ! goods ) a %>p p5cil1 & !n1 remov+ ! /5cil1 to fill 9 ! patt]n ) tjant+ & bru%4 ,?is same practice ( draw+ ! outl9e on ! goods ) p5cil1 or trac+ pap]1 or by transf]r+ f a *>coal draw+1 by rubb+1 is always to be recomm5d$3 except = ^? craftsm5 :o are su* ?or\ghly tra9$ draughtsm5 t !y c draw _! designs free-h&1 ) ! tjant+1 )\t dang] ( slip or mi/ake4 ,a p5cil or crayon l9e1 if n q true1 c be eras$ )\t spoil+ ! :ole design1 b x is q a tr\blesome matt] to correct a mi/ake made 9 molt5 wax4 ,tjant+s4--,! real int]e/ 9 ?is ,batik process lies 9 ! use ( "s =m ( p\r+ in/rum5t by :i* ! molt5 wax c be appli$ to ! mat]ial 9 a f9e /ream1 ) mu* ! same fre$om t a draw+ c be made ) s(t p5cil or crayon4 ,?is practice has be5 develop$ 9 ,java to its fulle/ ext5t1 & a f9e s>ong1 conta9+ two or ?ree y>ds ( calico1 w be completely cov]$1 f "o end to ! o!r1 ) wond]fully intricate & elaborate designs 9 two or ?ree colors1 all produc$1 p]fectly free-h&1 by curi\s little tjant+s1 9 ! light f+]s ( ! little ,javanese wom54 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bj--8,,teapot0 ,,model ,,( ,,tjant+ ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #ba--,,wal!r ,,glass ,,tjant+ ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bb--8,,wax ,,p5cil0 ,,model ,,( ,,tjant+ ,teapots4--,:5 we began exp]im5t+ ) ,batik1 9 our laboratory1 we _h no model ( ! ,javanese tools to "w )1 &1 f ! draw+s1 we c\ld n see h[ !y c\ld be us$ )\t con/ant dripp+4 ,s we design$ a little brass app>atus1 :i* we & our fri5ds nicknam$ a 8teapot10 :i*1 ) "s modification1 is %[n 9 ,fig4 #bj1 9 :i* ! molt5 wax rema9s 9 ! cup until x is p\r$ out4 ,?is1 ) practice1 works fairly well1 & "s v int]e/+ "w has be5 done ) x4 ,x is h>d1 h[ev]1 to draw ) x on a horizontal surface1 su* z we are accu/om$ to "w on4 ,& to foll[ ,javanese practice1 & h ! clo? hang+ ov] a frame1 & to press x out ) ! left h& :ile ! wax is appli$ ) ! in/rum5t 9 ! "r1 is (t5times a nuisance4 ,! ,wal!r ,glass ,tjant+4--,x is evid5t t we 7 n alone 9 our fe> ( ! ,javanese models ) sp\ts at ! bottom1 because1 9 ,g]many1 ,dr4 ,c4 ,wal!r ( ,crefeld has design$ & introduc$ a glass tjant+1 %[n 9 ,fig4 #ba1 :i* also deliv]s only on tipp+ ! in/rum5t =w>d4 ,?is we h exp]im5t$ ) b )\t mu* success4 ,= we h f\nd x difficult & awkw>d to draw ) x on a horizontal surface1 & also1 be+ made ( glass1 :ile x is *eap] ?an ! metal models1 x is at ! same "t m fragile4 ,wax ,p5cil4--,an entirely new idea has rec5tly be5 appli$ to ! art ( ,batik by ! introduction ( a 7pat5t$7 8wax p5cil0 7see ,fig4 #bb71 made on ! pr9ciple ( ! e>ly /ylographic p5s4 ,?is tool is made ( heavy brass1 ) a removable wood5 hold]1 & ! wax1 9 cyl9d]s1 is %ov$ into x f ! top aft] remov+ a cap4 ,to melt ! wax ! wood5 hold] is slipp$ (f1 & ! p5cil is heat$ ov] a flame or on a hot electric plate1 :ile ! liquid wax is prev5t$ f fl[+ out by a 8ne$le valve0 held 9 place by a small spiral spr+4 ,to use ! tool1 ! hold] is slipp$ ov] ! p5cil1 tak+ c>e n to burn ! f+]s 9 s do+1 & ! patt]n is trac$ 9 j ! same way t x w\ld be 9 ink1 pressure on ! project+ ne$le1 by rais+ ! valve1 p]mitt+ a great] or less] fl[ ( wax4 ,^! in/rum5ts are c]ta9ly m conv5i5t to draw ) ?an any ( ! =ms previ\sly m5tion$1 &1 on h>d smoo? surfaces1 su* z lea!r1 wood1 bone1 metal1 etc41 are satisfactory en\gh4 ,b x is no easy matt] to make !m s t !y w "w well4 ,= ! valve :i* regulates ! fl[ ( wax works ) a spiral spr+4 ,n[1 if ?is spr+ is1 or becomes1 lax1 ! wax drips incessantly4 ,if on ! o!r h& x is too /iff1 x is q tr\blesome to press d[n ! p91 at ! tip1 j h>d en\gh to deliv] a f9e /ream1 )\t op5+ x too wide4 ,9 our exp]i5ce ^! in/rum5ts1 :i* are q exp5sive1 d n "w well ) clo? &1 especially1 ) r\gh weaves ( clo?1 l cra%1 scrim1 pongee1 co>se calico1 & ! l4 ,= ! p9 is liable to cat* & jump on ! ?reads1 & !n x deliv]s ! wax v unev5ly4 ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bc--;,,javanese ,,tjant+s ,illu/ration3 ,,fig4 #bd--;,,am]ican ,,modification ,,( ,,javanese ,,tjant+ ,! ,javanese ,tjant+4--,aft] mu* exp]im5t+ "o ( our fri5ds f9ally br\ght u1 f ,holl&1 a real tjant+ copi$ directly f ! ,javanese1 & five m9utes' practice ) x satisfi$ u t x 0 sup]ior to any ( ! 8improv$0 models t we _h be5 work+ )4 ,s9ce !n we h se51 & /udi$1 sev]al diff]5t /yles ( ,javanese tjant+s1 & h le>n$ h[ !y mu/ be us$ to get ! be/ results4 ,! secret ( ^! in/rum5ts is two-fold4 ,fir/1 ! size ( ! deliv]y tube1 & second1 ! temp]ature ( ! wax4 ,! g5u9e ,javanese tjant+ 7see ,fig4 #bc7 is a little bit ( a tool1 hold+ only ab\t #ae or #bj cubic c5timet]s ( wax1 made ( v ?9 hamm]$ copp]1 & fa/5$ into a little bamboo h&le1 "s f\r or five in*es long4 ,at ! l[e/ "p ( ! cup1 :i* is drawn out at t po9t into a sp\t1 is fa/5$ ! deliv]y tube1 :i* is ( exce$+ly small calibre1 :at *emi/s w\ld call1 9 fact1 a 8capill>y0 tube4 ,x w be notic$ t ! wood5 h&le ext5ds =w>d1 "u ! b[l1 mak+ x impossible to heat ! b[l itself1 or melt ! wax 9 x1 by a direct flame4 ,! wax is melt$ 9 a sep>ate pot or l>ge cup1 & kept at a high temp]ature ?r\gh\t2 & ! op]ator scoops out ! wax f ?is pot ) ! b[l ( ! tjant+1 wipes (f ! drip ) a rag1 & !n proce$s to draw on ! clo?4 ,9 ,java1 or :]ev] ! clo? is kept upright1 by hang+ f a frame1 ! drip f ! outside ( ! cup & ! end ( ! h&le is n s important1 = x w fall 9 front ( ! clo?4 ,:51 h[ev]1 ! clo? is laid flat1 = draw+1 x is ( ! utmo/ importance to avoid all unnecess>y dripp+1 & s x is probably advisable to ladle ! wax f ! pot into ! tjant+1 ) a small cass]ole or ladle1 r ?an to dip x out directly4 ,n[1 if ! size ( ! deliv]y hole is "r1 & ! wax is nei!r too hot nor too cold1 x w =m a little globule on ! end ( ! tube1 & /ay !re2 & :5 ?is drop is wip$ (f & ! tube at once appli$ to ! clo? or o!r mat]ial1 ! wax w fl[ out 9 a f9e ?9 /ream1 z long z x is drawn along 9 contact ) ! clo?1 & :5 lift$ up x w /op fl[+ until aga9 appli$ to x4 ,if ! wax is too hot1 s t x runs too freely1 x is easy to cool x to ! prop] temp]ature by bl[+ on x4 ,if x is too cool1 s t x beg9s to *ill 9 ! tube1 & to fl[ sl[ly & unev5ly1 x mu/ be w>m$ by be+ aga9 dipp$ into ! hot wax = a new supply4 ,great pa9s mu/ be tak5 to h ! wax free f du/ or grit1 or else ! deliv]y tube w be con/antly /opp+ up4 ,a f9e b /iff bri/le or a v ?9 :isk ( broom corn %\ld be always on h& = clean+ ! tube4 ,& aft] us+ ! tjant+ pa9s mu/ be tak5 to clean out all ! wax ?or\ghly be=e lay+ x aside1 s t ! tube w be cle> = ! melt$ wax1 :5 x is next fill$4 ,! :ole tjant+1 tube & cup1 %\ld be g5tly w>m$ be=e fill+1 = fe> ( ! wax *ill+ 9 ! capill>y tube be=e x c be appli$4 ,b ! arrangem5t ( ! h&le is su* z to call = ! use ( an outside melt+ pot = ! wax1 :ile ! small size ( ! cup is evid5tly s t ! melt$ wax c be all p\r$ out be=e x has "t to *ill4 ,modification ( ! ,javanese ,tjant+4--,we h ) mu* tr\ble _h "s tjant+s made "h 7see ,fig4 #bd71 foll[+ closely ! ,javanese pr9ciples1 :i* h prov$ extremely satisfactory4 ,! deliv]y tube is equally f9e1 & ! g5]al action is ! same4 ,b ! cup has be5 made some:at l>g]1 & v consid]ably heavi]1 s t x w hold m wax1 & w hold ! heat bett]4 ,:ile1 = economy's sake1 in/ead ( hamm]$ copp]1 ! cup is made ( spun brass1 & ! wood5 h&le is atta*$ to its side1 & n to ! bottom ( x4 ,?is enables ! work] to heat ! cup directly ov] ! alcohol lamp1 )\t dang] ( scor*+ ! h&le4 ,( c\rse1 :5 ?is is done c>elessly1 x is liable to *> "s ( ! wax 9 & ne> ! tube1 & s to cause /oppages4 ,& also1 x is h>d to draw a s]ies ( f9e l9es ( exactly ! same ?ickness1 unless ! wax 9 ! tjant+ is always ( practically ! same temp]ature4 ,b !re is no difficulty 9 fill+ ^! modifi$ tjant+s1 j z ! ,javanese d1 by scoop+ up ! melt$ wax f a pot1 or by p\r+ ! melt$ wax into !m f a cass]ole or ladle4 ,:ile1 9 case ! wax gets *ill$ 9 ! tjant+1 x is v conv5i5t to be able to w>m ! cup quickly ov] a l[ clean flame1 or by sett+ x ^u ! corn] ( a hot plate4 ,composition ( ! ,wax4--,z a g5]al rule we h f\nd t ord9>y unref9$ beeswax1 c>efully melt$ & /ra9$1 or p\r$ (f1 free f du/ & s$im5t1 is fairly satisfactory4 ,x is1 h[ev]1 pretty exp5sive1 & s c be replac$1 )\t disadvantage1 by ! *eap] m9]al wax1 kn[n 9 a crude /ate z ,ozoc]ite1 & 9 its ref9$ =m1 :i* alone %\ld be employ$1 z ,c]es9e4 ,to make ! wax m brittle1 & ?us to improve ! 8crackle10 x is well to add m or less p>aff94 ,& x is well1 too1 to add consid]able ros91 to make ! wax adh]e bett] to ! goods1 & n be s liable to rub or peel (f4 ,on ! ,cont95t1 x is cu/om>y to use ,japanese vegetable wax in/ead ( beeswax1 b we h n f\nd ?is to be advantage\s4 ,:]e economy is desirable1 or :]e x is h>d to replace supplies1 x is well to save ! once us$ wax & use x ov] aga91 by extract+ ! wax f ! goods1 aft] dye+1 ) boil+ wat]1 & !n1 :5 ?is cools1 collect+ ! wax z a cake float+ on ! top4 ,dye+ ,batik$ ,goods4--,9 ,holl& &1 to "s ext5t1 else:]e on ! ,cont95t1 :]e ?is process has be5 introduc$1 great /ress has be5 laid ^u ! importance ( us+ ! old vegetable colors ( ! ,javanese1 along ) _! tjant+s4 ,x is h>dly necess>y to tell my read]s t ?is practice is bo? unsci5tific &1 9 a true s5se1 uncraftsmanlike4 ,! object ( any intellig5t craftswork] %\ld be to produce beautiful & int]e/+ & *>act]i/ic results 9 ! mo/ durable & effective mann] possible1 ) ! m9imum exp5diture ( en]gy ^u ! me*anical1 z oppos$ to ! arti/ic1 details4 ,:y1 aft] c>efully batik+ a good design on a piece ( silk or calico1 mu/ ! craftsman sp5d h\r aft] h\r ( valuable "t 9 "s t$i\s1 complicat$1 & exp5sive dye+ process1 simply because 8,t is ! way !y d ?+s 9 ,java10 especially :51 by us+ mod]n dye/uffs1 he c get results q z beautiful & f> m p]man5t1 9 a few m9utes' "t1 & ) f> less dang] ( spoil+ 8 "w4 ,ev5 ! clev] & skilful little ,javanese c\ld le>n some?+ f mod]n dye+ *emi/s4 ,! class ( dye/uffs to use dep5ds1 ( c\rse1 on ! k9d ( mat]ials t are be+ work$ on4 ,"o ( ! great *>ms ( ?is process is t x c be appli$ to all sorts & k9ds ( textiles &1 inde$1 ( a ho/ ( ?+s nev] includ$ "u t "n4 ,batik c be appli$ to cotton1 l951 wool1 silk1 & o!r wov5 goods4 ,x c also1 if desir$1 be us$ ^u basketry4 ,& *>m+ effects c be produc$1 by its aid1 ^u lea!r1 pa/ebo>d1 p>*m5t1 vellum1 & o!r bookb9d+ mat]ials1 z well z ^u wood1 bone1 or inde$ any?+ t possesses a smoo? surface1 & w hold a dye/uff4 ,on copp]1 brass1 & o!r metals x c also be us$1 n1 inde$1 = dye+1 b = et*+1 ) acids & o!r *emicals1 ) great success4 7a7 ,calico & ,l954--,!re is no d\bt t = vegetable fabrics 9 g5]al ,batik is v well fitt$1 especially s9ce ! introduction ( mod]n dyes1 :i* are appli$ 9 a cold ba? & are set by oxidation4 ,! ,sulphur dyes "w extremely well1 9 cold or lukew>m ba?s1 especially if us$ 9 a /rong dye-ba?4 ,b !y1 x w be rememb]$1 are n v bright colors1 & are v %ort on ! r$ side4 ,= s(t1 quiet color+s1 h[ev]1 extremely fa/ to wa%+1 & q fa/ to light1 :i* c be appli$ easily & readily1 !y w be f\nd v useful4 ,b ! fa/e/ colors kn[n1 bo? = light & = wa%+1 are ! mod]n ,vat colors1 _m ( :i*1 once r$uc$1 w dye 9 a lukew>m or ev5 a cold dye-ba?4 ,:ile indigo1 ! type ( ^! colors1 & /ill mo/ useful1 gives a s(t r greyi% %ade ( blue1 m effective by itself ?an :5 mix$1 !re c be f\nd among ! ,hel9dones1 ,?io indigoes1 & ! re/1 a full palette ( dyes :i*1 prop]ly mix$1 w furni% any %ade t may be desir$4 ,! dye+ directions = batik$ goods are ! same z = ord9>y calico4 ,! mat]ials1 well wett$1 are imm]s$1 dra9$1 wrung1 & oxidiz$ z usual4 ,! wax is usually remov$ 9 "o or m boil+ soap ba?s1 :i* help z well to set ! color & to remove unatta*$ dye/uff4 7b7 ,silk4--,silk1 z 9 o!r processes1 c be dy$ 9 sev]al diff]5t ways1 accord+ to ! fa/ness to light & wa%+ desir$4 ,! easie/ way1 especially :5 try+ to mat* %ades1 is to dye1 ) ! ,acid dyes1 9 a soap ba? acidifi$ ) a little sulphuric1 or1 pref]ably1 ) acetic acid4 ,^! %ades1 h[ev]1 :ile brilliant & fa/ to light1 are n at all fa/ to wa%+1 & s ! wax mu/ be remov$ lat]1 ) b5z9e or gasol9e1 & n ) a hot soap ba?4 ,! sulphur dyes1 ) a little glucose 9 ! ba?1 & pl5ty ( dye/uff1 w give extremely fa/ colors on silk1 b 9 mo/ cases ^! %ades w be too dull = prop] effect4 ,!y c be greatly improv$ 9 color1 ?\gh ) "s sacrifice ( fa/ness1 by topp+ !m1 )\t remov+ ! wax1 9 a cold ba? ( ,basic dyes1 dissolv$ ) a little acetic acid4 ,= extremely fa/ colors ! ,vat dyes c be us$4 ,easi] to apply1 especially = r light %ades1 are "s ( ! ,salt colors :i*1 ?\gh !y d n take z well on silk1 9 ! cold1 z !y d on cotton w1 nev]!less1 color x well1 ) prolong$ imm]sion1 9 a /rong ba?1 9 ! pres5ce ( =mic acid1 & once on1 w /& a v consid]able am\nt ( wa%+4 7c7 ,wool4--,9 case x is necess>y to apply ?is process to wool1 ! latt] w probably be dy$ 9 ! cold ) ,acid dyes1 9 ! pres5ce ( "s sodium sulphate 7,glaub]'s salt7 & dilute sulphuric acid4 ,to make ?is color fa/] to wa%+1 /eam+1 & ! l1 x is be/1 aft] dye+1 dry+1 & remov+ ! wax ) b5z9e1 to boil ! dy$ goods = half an h\r or m 9 a ba? conta9+ a little ,glaub]'s salt & dilute sulphuric acid1 b no dye/uff4 7d7 ,lea!r4--,z a rule1 ! ,batik$ lea!r %\ld be dy$ ) ,acid colors1 acidifi$ ) acetic or =mic acid1 ?\gh !y c be %ad$ aft]w>ds1 if desir$1 by /a9+ ) ,basic colors4 ,aft] dye+1 ! wax c be remov$ by b5z9e or1 s(t5$ c>efully by ! cauti\s approa* ( a hot iron1 c be incorporat$ ) ! poli%+ wax1 us$ = rubb+ d[n & f9i%+ ! surface4 7e7 ,wood4--,batik$ wood c be /a9$ by soak+ x 91 or by bru%+ x )1 a solution ( an acid color1 acidifi$ ) a little acetic acid4 ,^! dyes are m soluble ?an mo/ ( ! o!r classes1 & h5ce soak into & p5etrate ! fibres bett]4 ,!y may ble$1 h[ev]1 if expos$ to w>m wat]4 ,! ,basic colors or ev5 ! ,salt colors c be us$1 b1 :ile !y are apt to adh]e m firmly1 !y d n soak 9 z well4 ,! wax is ei!r us$ = poli%+1 or is remov$ by b5z9e4 7f7 ,baskets4--,basketry c be decorat$ by ,batik1 al?\gh x is b r>ely done4 ,! baskets w\ld be dy$ ) ,basic colors & acetic acid1 except+ :]e yell[s & r$s 7 ne$$1 fa/ to light1 9 :i* case ! ,acid colors w\ld be us$4 7g7 ,bone4--,v pretty effects c be produc$ ) ,batik ^u poli%$ surface ( bone or ivory4 ,^! are dy$ c>efully ) ,acid colors 9 a ba? conta9+ acetic acid4 ,?is process is a comb9ation ( dye+ & et*+1 = ! acid attacks ! expos$ surfaces1 remov+ ! poli% & op5+ ! way = ! action ( ! dye/uff lat]4 ,batik ,us$ = ,et*+4--,! tal5ts ( ,batik are num]\s1 = ! usefulness ( ! ,batik tjant+ & bru% are n conf9$ to ! dy]1 b c be readily avail$ ( by any metal or wood work] :o happ5s to be a skill$ draughtsman z well4 ,wax is a good resi/1 n only aga9/ dyes & ! weak *emicals us$ 9 connection ) !m1 b also aga9/ _m ( ! mo/ p[]ful reag5ts kn[n to ! *emi/1 su* z sulphuric acid1 = in/ance1 or /rong cau/ic alkali4 ,accord+ly1 if a piece ( smoo? wood is c>efully batik$ & !n1 in/ead ( be+ pa9t$ ) dye/uff 9 solution1 x has "s /rong sulphuric acid1 or a conc5trat$ solution ( cau/ic pota% p\r$ & spread ^u x1 9 a few m9utes1 aft] ! reag5t is wa%$ (f & ! wax remov$ ) gasol9e or o!rwise1 ! expos$ surfaces ( ! wood w be f\nd s(t5$ & corrod$1 s t on scrubb+ ) a /iff bru%1 !y c be readily rubb$ away1 & ! wax$ portions w /& out 9 relief4 ,metal "w1 l copp] or brass plates & di%es1 c be et*$ readily 9 ! same way1 ! patt]n ( ! relief be+ drawn 9 wax1 & ! metal expos$ = a great] or less "t to ! action ( dilute nitric acid4 ,)\t go+ fur!r into details x is hop$ t en\gh has be5 /at$ "h to impress on ! /ud5t ! possibilities ( ?is beautiful process 9 a l>ge numb] ( diff]5t directions4 ,,*apt] ,,xviii ,,! ,,influ5ce ,,( ,,! ,,w> ,,^u ,,! ,,dye/uff ,,indu/ry ,9 ,*apt] ,,ii ( ?is book x has be5 expla9$ h[ ! dye+ indu/ry ( ! :ole _w 0 *ang$ by ! discov]y & comm]cial prep>ation ( ! fir/ anil9e dye/uff1 mauve9e1 9 #ahef1 by ! ,engli% *emi/ ,p]k94 ,"u 8 lead]%ip ! supremacy 9 ?is new indu/ry 0 kept 9 ,engl&2 b :5 he retir$ f ! field ! manufacture ( dye/uffs 0 soon conc5trat$ 9 ,g]many4 ,= ov] =ty ye>s be=e ! beg9n+ ( ! ,great ,w>1 ! ,g]mans _h almo/ complete & absolute control ov] ! :ole color bus9ess1 includ+ _m alli$ indu/ries l ! manufacture ( organic *emicals1 drugs1 p]fumes1 flavor+ matt]s & ! l1 d]iv$ orig9ally f coal t>4 ,9 ,g]many 7 f\r or five great & spl5didly equipp$ factories1 & "s t5 or fifte5 o!rs ( less importance1 all ?or\ghly organiz$ & work+ toge!r mo/ h>moni\sly "u :at w\ld1 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 be call$ a mo/ p]fect specim5 ( a ,tru/4 ,oppos$ to !m all ov] ! _w !re c\ld be f\nd b a h&ful ( comp>atively small & unimportant firms 9 ,switz]l&1 ,france1 ,engl& & ! ,unit$ ,/ates--produc+ altoge!r n ov] ab\t t5 p] c5t ( ! output ( _! ,g]man competitors4 ,comp>$ to o!r indu/ries ! output ( dye/uffs ne$$ = ! :ole _w's consumption is n a v l>ge "o--"s sixty or sev5ty million doll>s a ye> all told2 & x 0 freely boa/$1 & m or less accept$ by ! re/ ( ! _w1 t 8! dye/uff indu/ry is a "o-nation indu/ry1 & t nation is ,g]many60 ,rise ( ! ,g]man ,dye/uff ,monopoly4--,! /ory ( h[ ?is came ab\t 0 once told ! writ] by ,sir ,william ,p]k91 :5 he 0 9 ,new ,york1 9 #ahif1 at ! "t ( ! 8,coal ,t> ,color ,jubilee10 ! fiftie? anniv]s>y ( 8 fam\s discov]y4 ,he said t 9 ! e>ly days1 :5 he 0 runn+ 8 plant ne> ,man*e/]1 ! mo/ dang]\s competitors he _h to face 7 ! ,fr5*4 ,he describ$ !m z excell5t *emi/s & ke51 b fair-fight+ bus9ess m52 & ! ,g]mans1 9 ^? days1 7 f> inf]ior to !m 9 e way--9 ability1 9 orig9ality1 &1 above all1 9 hone/y4 ,he w5t s f> z to say t1 = ye>s be=e he left ! bus9ess1 he & o!r ,engli% *emi/s _h entirely ab&on$ attempts to pat5t _! discov]ies 9 ,b]l94 ,he _h f\nd1 by sad exp]i5ce1 t :5ev] he s5t ov] an application = a pat5t on a new dye/uff1 or new *emical comp\nd ( importance1 ! ,g]man ,pat5t ,(fice w\ld at once call 91 = consultation1 ! lead+ ,g]man *emi/s :o 7 int]e/$ 9 t l9e ( "w4 ,he w\ld get reque/ aft] reque/ = m & m detail$ in=mation ab\t e "p ( ! process2 & !n1 :5 !y _h got f him e bit ( in=mation t !y c\ld1 !y w\ld grant ! pat5t to "s "o ( 8 ,g]man competitors1 :o1 9 _m cases at lea/1 _h nev] ev5 dream$ ( ! ?+1 until ,p]k9 _h s5t 8 application to ,b]l94 ,9 fact1 he said ! ,engli% & ,fr5* *emi/s consid]$ !m z rank1 b>e-fac$ pirates1 & none too successful pirates at t4 ,two ,g]mans h[ev]1 9 #ahfi1 did "w out ! composition ( aliz>9e1 ! dye/uff ( madd]1 & publi%$ _! discov]y 9 ! *emical j\rnals4 ,b :ile !y discov]$ & pat5t$ "o me?od = prep>+ ?is ,aliz>9e f coal t> on a comm]cial scale1 ,p]k9 9 ,engl&1 & "s dye/uff *emi/s 9 ,france discov]$ o!r me?ods equally good or p]haps bett] = produc+ ! same id5tical color at less exp5se4 ,s !y /ill kept well ahead ( ! ,g]mans ev5 9 t4 ,soon aft] ?is1 9 #ahgj1 ! ,franco-,prussian w> broke out4 ,at once ! ,fr5* & ,g]man factories clos$1 at any rate = any =eign trade1 & z ! cultivation ( madd] _h by t "t be5 ab&on$1 ,p]k9 f\nd t all ! ,turkey r$ = ! :ole ,ea/]n m>ket mu/ be dy$ ) 8 ,man*e/] aliz>9e4 ,ord]s came p\r+ 91 & 9 ord] to keep up ) ! dem&1 x w\ld be necess>y = him to greatly increase ! size ( 8 plant1 & to put back into x all 8 sav+s ( ! pa/ f\rte5 or fifte5 v pr(itable ye>s4 ,?is1 he told me1 he 0 unwill+ to d4 ,b1 j at t mom5t1 he 0 approa*$ by a firm ( ,man*e/] bus9ess m51 :o _h be5 supply+ 8 works ) "s ( ! raw mat]ials f coal t> 7crudes & int]m$iates z !y call !m n[71 ) an (f] to buy 8 works & 8 int]e/ 9 ! bus9ess4 ,he 0 p]fectly frank & op5 ) !m1 %[$ !m 8 books1 8 pr(its = ! pa/ few ye>s1 8 pres5t ord]s & ! re/1 & aft] a little b>ga9+ he sold out to !m = a v fair price1 :i* he imm$iately inve/$ 9 ! be/ ( securities & on :i* he liv$ 9 com=t = ! re/ ( 8 long & extremely happy life4 ,ru9 ( ! ,engli% ,dye/uff ,indu/ry4--,z soon z !y _h ga9$ possession ( 8 factory1 ! ,man*e/] p began to pass ^w ar\nd among _! fri5ds1 t !y 7 go+ to %[ ! :ole _w h[ to run a *emical indu/ry4 ,p]k91 !y agre$1 0 inde$ a clev] fell[ 9 8 way1 & und\bt$ly a good *emi/1 b he 0 no bus9ess man4 ,!y 7 go+ to run ^? works on good1 practical1 common-s5se bus9ess l9es1 & !y & _! few fri5ds :om !y all[$ to jo9 !m1 boa/$ l\dly & deeply ( _! expect$ pr(its4 ,_! motto 0 ! well-e/abli%$ "o 8,manufacture *eap & sell de>0--& !y proce$$ to foll[ x implicitly4 ,!y w5t ov] all ! details ( ! bus9ess ) ! greate/ c>e1 & soon f\nd :at seem$ to !m a willful piece ( extravagance4 ,p]k9 himself1 & ?ree or f\r o!r *emi/s1 7 draw+ sal>ies1 n = ! actual mak+ ( ! dye/uffs b = exp]im5tal purposes1 & !y _h q an exp5sive laboratory us$ = t purpose alone6 ,( c\rse ?is 0 at once elim9at$--& great 0 _! satisfaction :5 !y f\nd t !y _h !reby cut d[n ! price ( mak+ _! dyes two or ?ree c5ts a p\nd4 ,!n x came to ! 8sell+ de>0 "p ( x4 ,p]k9 told me t ! la/ few ye>s t he ran 8 factory1 he kept ! price ( 8 dye/uffs at a reasonable figure1 s t1 inde$1 he w\ld get a good pr(it f !m1 b t1 on ! o!r h&1 x w\ld be no easy matt] = competitors to break into 8 field ) success4 ,8 aliz>9e1 9 p>ticul>1 he _h kept at a price j bel[ :at x w\ld pay to gr[ madd] 9 opposition to x1 & he _h n rais$ ! price to any great ext5t s9ce ! w> _h giv5 him a monopoly4 ,^! ,man*e/] p1 h[ev]1 fully recogniz$ t !y 7 ! only manufactur]s ( aliz>9e1 any:]e1 & 7 ov]-flood$ ) ord]s--s !y in/antly jump$ up ! price ( _! aliz>9e to f\r or five times its =m] figures4 ,b>ely _h !y complet$ _! 8bus9ess0 reorganization ( ! plant :5 ! w> came to an end1 & ! ,g]mans m>*$ back to _! own c\ntry1 ) 8five milli>ds0 ( ,fr5* money1 full ( self-confid5ce 7to use a v mild t]m7 & look+ ar\nd = new fields to conqu] 9 peace1 n[ t !y _h won all t !y c\ld at t "t by w>4 ,in/antly e ,g]man ) any k ( ! textile or dye/uff indu/ries turn$ 8 eyes at once 9 t direction4 8,:at6 ,aliz>9e at five doll>s a p\nd in/ead ( a doll>2 :y1 any fool c make a pr(it on colors at t price60 ,& imm$iately1 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! c\ntry1 factory aft] factory 0 />t$1 ea* "o c5t]$ ar\nd "s fir/-class *emi/1 ( national if n int]national reputation1 ) in/ructions to ga!r ar\nd himself a /aff ( ! mo/ brilliant & be/ tra9$ organic *emi/s he c\ld f9d1 to be us$ fir/ ( all 9 exp]im5tal & inve/igat+ "w z well z = ! m]e prep>ation ( dye/uffs4 ,z a result1 9 a v %ort "t1 ^! new ,g]man firms 7 supply+ aliz>9e & o!r dye/uffs to ! ,man*e/] ,turkey r$ manufactur]s at l[] prices ?an !y c\ld be made = 9 ,p]k9's old factory 9 ! imm$iate neighborhood2 &1 be=e ! end ( ! ye>1 ^? clev] bus9ess m5 7 compla9+ bitt]ly to ,p]k9 t he _h *eat$ !m 9 ! sale ( 8 works1 & 7 want+ him to give !m _! money back1 :i*1 z ! old g5tleman told me ) a *uckle1 he v positively & decid$ly refus$ to d4 ,f t "t until ! beg9n+ ( ! ,great ,w> ! great ,engli% textile indu/ry1 ) its enorm\s trade all ov] ! _w1 0 oblig$ to buy practically all its dye/uffs f ,g]many4 ,dye/uff ,indu/ry 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4--,! manufacture ( dye/uffs 9 ?is c\ntry 0 a little bett] ?an 9 ,engl&1 because ( ! t>iff protection grant$ x by ! ,gov]nm5t = _m ye>s4 ,f\r or five factories ( v mod]ate size kept up a r prec>i\s exi/5ce1 because _! *ief raw mat]ials1 ! s-call$ 8int]m$iates10 organic *emicals made f coal t> & f :i* ! pr9cipal products1 dyes1 drugs1 p]fumes & ! l are made 9 turn1 all _h to be import$ f ,europe1 &1 9 mo/ cases1 f _! ,g]man rivals :o naturally kept a tight re9 ^u ! quantity & quality ( _! output4 ,9 #aiac ev5 ?is indu/ry 0 de/roy$ by ! abolition ( ! duties on dye/uffs 9 ! new t>iff1 ?anks to ! pressure = free raw mat]ials br\ght by ! great textile indu/ries1 probably at ! in/igation ( ! =eign color h\ses4 ,*ang$ ,conditions ,due to ! ,w>4--,s9ce #aiad ?is :ole situation has be5 radically & completely *ang$ all ov] ! _w4 ,appreciat+ ! great dang] to _! textile trades f ! lack ( dye/uffs1 & also ! va/ milit>y importance ( a l>ge & highly develop$ coal t> products indu/ry1 = ! manufacture ( high explosives1 smokeless p[d] & ! l1 nation aft] nation has giv5 gov]nm5t assi/ance n only 9 ! l9e ( money1 b also ) pat5t legislation & new t>iff4 ,engl& ) its ,briti% ,dye ,works1 ,ltd41 ,france ) ! ,/4 ,d5is ,works1 n[ greatly enl>g$ & /r5g!n$1 ,italy1 ,japan1 all h made arrangem5ts = supply+ _! trade ) home-made dye/uffs1 ( excell5t quality1 n only dur+ b aft] ! tempor>y di/urbance due to ! actual fight+4 ,9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates !re soon 7 made _m m or less indep5d5t & spasmodic ef=ts to supply at lea/ ! pr9cipal & mo/ g5]ally us$ colors1 notably ! ,basic dyes1 ,me?yl5e ,blue1 ,me?yl ,violet & ! l1 s mu* us$ 9 calico pr9t+1 silk & wool dye+1 lea!r & o!r l9es1 & ! simpl] ,sulphur colors1 l ,sulphur ,black1 ,blues1 & ,br[ns4 ,^! 7 sell+1 be=e ! end ( #aiad1 at comp>atively huge prices1 & until ! peace w probably /ill comm& f five to t5 times _! usual values4 ,b out ( ^! scores ( g5]ally q small & isolat$ factories1 !re h sprung1 by ! f\r? ye> ( ho/ilities1 a few l>ge1 well equipp$ & fully f9anc$ organizations :i* w be able1 )9 a v %ort "t1 inde$ probably be=e ^! l9es appe> 9 pr9t1 to fully provide ?is c\ntry ) ! ma9 /&>d dyes1 q z good 9 e respect z ! same dyes made by ! be/ ,g]man color h\ses4 ,&1 unless v adv]se t>iff legislation %\ld be introduc$1 !y %\ld be 9 a position1 aft] ! close ( ! w>1 to hold _! trade aga9/ any =eign competition4 ,x w1 ( c\rse1 take sev]al ye>s be=e !y c supply 9 ?is c\ntry ! v f9e/ special dye/uffs1 ( :i* b small quantities are ev] ne$$ or us$1 & :i* 9 mo/ cases are fully protect$ by pat5ts1 z well z by secret me?ods ( manufacture4 ,b1 ) ! exception ( ! vat colors1 ( :i* artificial ,indigo & ! closely alli$ ,brom-indigo are at pres5t ! only ones made 9 ?is c\ntry1 ! dye+ trade w be1 9 a %ort "t1 well suppli$ ) excell5t /&>d colors 8made 9 ,am]ica40 ,! ?ree important ,am]ican dye/uff h\ses already />t$ ) ! addresses ( _! ,new ,york (fices are z foll[s3-- ,am]ican--,am]ican ,anil9e ,products4 ,inc41 #hj ,fif? ,av5ue4 ,m>d5--,m>d51 ,or? & ,ha/+s1 #fa ,broadway4 ,national--,national ,anil9e & ,*emical ,co41 #bdd ,madison ,av5ue4 ,& also1 soon to engage 9 ! manufacture ( dye/uffs on a l>ge scale3-- ,! ,dupont de ,nem\rs ,*emical ,co41 ( ,wilm+ton1 ,del4 ,li/s ( ! ,be/ ,dye/uffs1 9 ! ,diff]5t ,classes1 ,made ,?us ,f> by ! ,am]ican ,manufactur]s ,at ! pres5t mom5t1 ,novemb]1 #aiag1 b few ( ! home-made colors are z fa/ to light z ! specially select$ dyes ( ! great ,g]man h\ses1 li/$ on pages #ff1 #hi1 #ajc & #abg4 ,^? 9 ! foll[+ li/s are ! be/ made at pres5t1 9 ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 & w be /eadily improv$ ^u z "t goes on4 ,direct ,cotton or ,salt ,dyes4-- ,am]ican--,b5zo ,fa/ ,yell[1 ,a ,direct ,sky ,blue ,m>d5-- ,/ilb5e ,yell[ ,direct ,blue ,direct ,br[n ,national--,delta ,r$1 #b ,b ,niag>a ,fa/ ,yell[1 ,f ,niag>a ,blue1 #b ,b ,erie ,black1 ,g ,x ,,oo ,sulphur ,colors4-- ,m>d5-- ,sulphur ,black ,sulphur ,br[n ,national--,sulphur ,br[n1 ,w ,f ,sulphur ,yell[1 ,b ,w ,sulphur ,direct ,navy ,blue ,sulphur ,black1 ,f conc4 ,vat ,colors4-- ,dibrom ,indigo1 p[d] & pa/e ,syn!tic ,indigo1 #bj pa/e ,made by ! ,d[ ,*emical ,company ( ,midl&1 ,mi*igan4 ,new ,york ,ag5ts1 ,geis5heim] ,co41 #acd ,c$> ,/reet4 ,syn!tic ,indigo & ,sodium hydrosulphite c also be obta9$ f ,klip/e91 #fcd ,gre5wi* ,/reet1 ,new ,york4 ,basic ,colors4-- ,_m ( ^! su* z ,me?yl5e ,blue1 ,me?yl ,violet1 ,phosph9e1 ,bism>ck ,br[n & o!rs1 includ+ lea!r ,black1 are be+ made by ,am]ican1 ,m>d5 & ,national1 z well z by _m firms t s f> h n gone into ! g5]al color bus9ess4 ,"o ( ! mo/ important ( ^! la/1 :o1 besides ! above1 make a brilliant basic ,gre51 call$ by !m ,me?yl5e ,gre51 is ! ,me?-,o-,l5e ,co41 ,inc41 #ha-hc ,fulton ,/reet1 ,new ,york4 ,auram9e1 at pres5t1 c be/ be obta9$ f ,klip/e94 ,nigros9e soluble 9 wat]1 9 jet black & blui% %ades1 is made by ,m>d51 ,me?-,o-,l5e & o!r firms1 & is l>gely us$ = dye+ lea!r fa/ brilliant %ades ( black4 ,acid ,colors4-- ,am]ican--,fa/ ,yell[1 ,h ,ex4 ,brilliant ,blue1 conc4 ,clo? ,r$1 ,h ,acid ,black1 ,l conc4 ,m>d5-- ,metanril ,yell[ ,orange1 ,no4 #b ,fa/ ,acid ,r$ ,croce9e ,sc>let ,national--,azo ,yell[1 ,a ,s ,w ,sc>let1 ,b ,r ,acid ,black1 #d ,a ,b ,also ,t>traz9e1 a fa/ acid yell[ mu* us$ = wool1 n = silk4 ,,special ,,note ,fur!r in=mation conc]n+ dye/uffs1 app>atus1 textiles1 *emicals1 etc41 connect$ ) ?is "w1 may be obta9$ on writ+ to ! au?or at #g ,we/ #dcrd ,/reet1 ,new ,york4 ,,index ,!re is no m5tion ei!r ( ! ,plate illu/rations or ( ! ,figure illu/rations 9 ! index2 ^! may be f\nd 9 a li/ ( ! illu/rations 9 ! front ( ! book4 ,acid ,azo ,colors1 #abc1 #abd ,acid ,colors1 #eb1 #ed1 #abc-aca1 #aca-acf1 #adh-aej1 #aeb1 #afe-afh1 #bai1 #beh ,aft]-treatm5t1 #ah1 #fg1 #fh1 #hi ,aliz>9e & ,aliz>9e ,dye/uffs1 #bb1 #bc1 #db ,aliz>9e ,assi/ant or ,turkey ,r$ ,oil1 #hh1 #ajf1 #bcb ,anil9e1 #dj1 #da ,anil9e ,black--= ,/5cill+1 #bbd-bbh ,anil9e ,colors1 #aji4 ,also see ,basic ,colors ,anil9e ,r$ or ,fu*s9e1 ,mag5ta1 #dj1 #aji ,animal ,dyes1 #aa-ad4 ,also see ,co*9eal1 ,k]mes1 ,lac1 ,tyrian purple ,artificial ,silk1 #ci1 #hg1 #aab1 #aha1 #ahd-aib ,artificial or ,syn!tic ,indigo1 #ib1 #ic ,bagobo ,ti$ ,"w1 #aif1 #aii1 #bjj1 #bjb1 #bjf ,basic ,colors1 #eb1 #ed1 #ajh-abc1 #adh-aec1 #bbj-bbc1 #beh ,basketry1 ,dye+ (1 #aac1 #aad1 #aaf-abc1 #beh ,batik or ,wax ,resi/1 #bda-bfj ,b5$ict1 ,miss ,laura 7,ti$ ,"w f ,philipp9es71 #aii1 #bjj1 #bjf ,bism>ck ,br[n1 #aji1 #aae1 #abd ,bi/re or ,p]manganate ,bronze1 #cb-ce ,black ,dye+--) ,coal-,t> ,colors1 #fi1 #hf1 #hi1 #aad1 #afh1 #afi ,black ,dye+--) ,logwood1 #ba1 #ach1 #afi-agb ,black ,/5cill+1 #bbd-bbh ,blea*+ ,p[d]1 #bjh-baa1 #bcd-bcf ,boil$-(f ,liquor1 #afa1 #afb1 #afd1 #afh1 #agd ,bone-color$ by ,batik ,process1 #beh ,briti% uni=ms1 dy$ ) co*9eal1 #ai ,bronze on ,lea!r1 #aec-aee ,bronze 7,p]manganate7 or ,bi/re1 #cb-ce ,br[n 7,bism>ck71 #aji1 #aae1 #abd ,br[n1 dy$ ) ,p]manganate ( ,pota%1 #cb-ce ,ca*\ de ,laval1 #he ,cate*u4 ,see ,cut* ,*>donnet ,silk1 #ahd1 #ahe1 #ahi ,*loride ( ,lime4 ,see ,blea*+ ,p[d] ,*rome ,orange1 #cb ,*rome ,yell[1 #cb ,*rome ,tann+1 #add ,*undries or ,*un>ies 7,indian ,ti$ ,"w71 #aif-aii ,classification ( ,coal-,t> ,colors1 = ,craftsm51 #ea1 #eb ,co*9eal1 #aa1 #ah1 #ai ,congo ,r$1 #ee1 #ef1 #eg ,cordovan ,lea!r1 #adb ,cotton ,colors4 ,see ,salt ,colors ,cotton ,dye+1 #ei-fd1 #hf1 #hh-ij1 #ih1 #ii 8,cov]+10 #hc ,crackle ,effect--9 ,batik1 #bdd1 #bdf1 #bdg ,cut*1 #ah1 #he1 #adf1 #aga ,direct ,color+1 #aic ,direct ,cotton ,dye+4 ,see ,salt ,colors & ,sulphur ,colors4 ,also #ag1 #ec1 #ee1 #he ,dis*>ge ,/5cill+1 #bcc-bda ,dis*>ge "w1 #aic1 #bjh-baa ,discov]y ( ,acid ,colors1 #abc1 #abd2 ,anil9e or ,coal-,t> ,colors1 #dj1 #da1 #df2 ,basic ,colors1 #ajh1 #aji2 ,indigo1 #i1 #aj1 #ia1 #ib2 ,salt ,colors1 #ee1 #ef2 ,sulphur ,colors1 #he1 #hf2 ,vat ,colors1 mod]n1 #ajc ,discov]y 7,p]k9's71 #dj1 #da1 #df1 #ed1 #ajh1 #aji ,dye+ ,directions--= ,acid ,colors1 #abg-aca1 #acb-acg1 #adh-aec1 #afb1 #afc2 ,artificial ,silk1 #ahg1 #ahi1 #aij2 ,basic ,colors1 #aag-abc1 #adh-aej2 ,basketry1 #aag-abc2 ,batik1 #bed-beh2 ,cotton & ,l951 #bg1 #cj1 #cc1 #ei-fd1 #hg-hi1 #ih1 #ii1 #aje-ajh2 ,fea!rs1 #acb-acg2 ,imitation ,silk1 #ahc2 ,indigo1 #ih1 #ii2 ,iron ,buff 7,iron ,ru/71 #bg-bi2 ,iron ,grey1 #cj2 ,lea!r1 #adh-aej2 ,p]manganate ,bronze1 #cc2 ,raffia1 #abj-abc2 ,resi/ ,/5cill+1 #bcb2 ,salt ,colors1 #ei-fd1 #age1 #agf1 #bcc2 ,silk1 #afb-afe1 #agd-aha1 #bjg2 ,/raw1 #aag-abj2 ,sulphur ,colors1 #hg-hi1 #ahj1 #bjg1 #bcb2 ,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w1 #bjf1 #bjg2 ,vat ,colors1 #aje-ajh1 #agg-aha2 ,wild ,silk1 #afd1 #afe2 ,wool1 #bd1 #abg-aca ,ea/]n ,dyes1 #aj1 #ac1 #ag-ba1 #bb1 #aii1 #bjj1 #bde ,elb]feld ,silk1 #ahe1 #ahi ,embroid]y-fa/ ,silk1 #age-aha ,equipm5t ne$$ = ,dye+1 #ce-ci ,fa/ness to ,light1 #db1 #di1 #fc-ff1 #hi1 #ajj1 #ajb1 #ajc1 #aab1 #aad1 #abf1 #aec ,fa/ness to ,wa%+1 #fd-fg1 #hi1 #ajj1 #ajc1 #abd1 #acg1 #agd-aha ,fea!rs & ,fea!r-dye+1 #ci1 #aca-ada ,f]m5tation ,me?od ( ,vat dye+1 #id ,f9i%+--,artificial ,silk1 #ci1 #ahi1 #aij2 ,fea!rs1 #ci1 #acd1 #ace2 ,lea!r1 #aec2 ,silk1 #ci1 #afc1 #afd ,fu/ic1 #bj ,gambi]1 #adf1 #aga ,gelat9 or ,glue1 us$ z ,reag5t1 #hg ,glanz/(f 7,elb]feld ,silk71 #ahe1 #ahi ,glucose1 #cc1 #hg1 #agi ,gra9 ,colors 7,co*9eal1 ,k]mes1 ,lac71 #aa1 #ab1 #ai ,grey1 ,miss ,m>y--,ti$ ,"w1 #bjc ,grey1 f mixture ( colors1 #gb1 #gc1 #hb1 #hc ,grey1 f ,iron ,salts & ,tann91 #bi1 #ca ,heat+ devices1 us$ 9 ,dye+1 #cf ,hi/ory4 ,see ,discov]y4 ,also ,anci5t ,dye/uffs1 #h-af2 ,artificial ,silk1 #ahd-ahg2 ,batik1 #bda-bde2 ,dyes ( our ,ance/ors1 #ag-bd2 ,imitation ,silk1 #ahb1 #ahc2 ,lea!r1 #ada-add2 ,silk1 #aef1 #aeg2 ,/5cils & ,/5cill+1 #baa1 #bab2 ,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w1 #aib-bjj ,horses1 dy$ ,br[n ) ,p]manganate1 #cd ,hydrosulphite ( ,sodium1 #ce1 #ig1 #ih1 #ajd1 #aje1 #aah1 #bji1 #baj1 #bcg-bda ,imitation ,silk1 #aha-ahd ,indian ,dyes1 #ag1 #ah1 #aii ,indian ,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w1 #aif-aii1 #bjb1 #bjf ,indigo & ,vat ,colors1 #i1 #aj1 #ad1 #ia-ajh1 #bbb-bbe ,indigo1 ,application (1 #ic1 #ih-ajj ,introduction1 #e-h ,iron ,buff 7,iron ,ru/71 #be-bi1 #ajc ,iron ,grey1 #bi-ca ,japanese ,practice1 #ca1 #baa-bai1 #bbh-bca ,javanese ,practice 7,batik71 #bdb-bef ,k]mes1 #ab ,khaki1 #bh ,lac ,dye1 #aa1 #ai1 #bj ,lea!r1 #ada-aef2 ,dye+ & ,/a9+ (1 #aaa1 #adh-aec2 ,f9i%+ (1 #aec2 ,hi/ory (1 #ada-add2 ,prep>ation (1 #adc-adh2 ,/5cill+ (1 #bai ,l95--,dye+ (4 ,see ,cotton ,dye+1 #ei-fd1 #hf1 #hh-ij1 #ih1 #ii ,local ,dye+ ,=mul1 #bd ,logwood1 #ba1 #ach1 #afi-agb ,madd]1 #aj ,manufactur]s ( ,coal-,t> ,colors1 #dh ,mat*+ ,%ades1 #gg1 #gh1 #aja ,mat*+ ,%ades by ,night1 #hd ,mauv9e 7,p]k9's ,violet71 #dj1 #da1 #ajh1 #aji ,metal1 ,et*+ ( by ,batik ,process1 #bei ,me?yl ,violet4 ,see ,basic ,colors1 also #di1 #ajh ,me?yl5e ,blue4 ,see ,basic ,colors1 also #aji1 #aab1 #aad1 #adi ,m9]al ,dyes1 #be-ce ,mix$ ,%ades1 ) ,diagram1 #gh-hd ,mod]n & ,anci5t ,dye/uffs1 comp>$1 #e1 #f ,mordants & ,mordant+1 #aa1 #ah-be1 #ec1 #ee1 #aaj ,murex ,br&>is 7,tyrian ,purple ,fi%71 #ab ,murex ,trunculus1 #ab ,night1 ,mat*+ ,%ades by1 #hd ,nor? ,c>ol9a ,practice1 #bd ,p]k91 ,sir ,wm4 ,h5ry1 #dj-dc1 #df1 #ajh1 #aji ,p]k9's ,discov]y4 ,see ,p]k9 ,p]manganate ,bronze 7,p]manganate ,br[n1 ,bi/re71 #cb-ce ,p]uvian ,ti$ ,"w1 #aif ,philipp9e ,ti$ ,"w1 #aif1 #aii-bja ,prim>y ,colors1 #gb1 #gc ,purpura ,lapillus 7,tyrian ,purple ,fi%71 #ab ,raffia1 ,dye+ (1 #abj1 #aba ,ra9b[ ,dye+1 #gd1 #ge1 #hb1 #hc1 #aai-abb1 #abi1 #acf ,rajput ,ti$ ,"w 7,*undries71 #aif-aii1 #bjb1 #bjf ,resi/ ,/5cil ,pa/e1 #bbi-bcd ,resi/ ,"w1 #aid1 #aie1 also #aif-bji1 #bbi-bcd1 #bda-bfj ,rubb] ,gloves--,useful = ,dye+1 #cg 8,rubb+10 #aja1 #ajb ,ru%1 ,dr4 ,b5jam91 #baa ,rusk91 ,john1 ,op9ion on ,mod]n ,dye/uffs1 #e ,saffl[]1 #ag1 #ee ,saffron1 #aj ,saffron1 ,indian 7,turm]ic71 #ag ,salt--us$ 9 ,dye+1 #fb1 #hg1 #hh1 #ajg ,salt ,colors 7,direct ,cotton ,colors71 #ea1 #ee-ga1 #aaa1 #age1 #bbj1 #bcg1 #bch-bdj2 ,li/ ( ,prop]ties & ,uses1 #fi ,s>ongs1 #bdc ,select$ ,dye/uffs1 ,li/s (-- ,acid ,colors1 #abg1 #aeb1 #aff2 ,basic ,colors1 #aad1 #aae1 #adi2 ,salt ,colors1 #ff2 ,sulphur ,colors1 #ij2 ,vat ,colors1 #ajc1 #agi ,%ades1 ,mat*+ (1 #ha ,%ik>1 ,*undries 7,ti$ ,"w f ,india71 #aig ,silk1 ,artificial1 #ci1 #hg1 #aab1 #aha1 #ahd-aib ,silk1 #aef-aha2 ,dye+1 #eh1 #hf1 #hg1 #afa-afd1 #agd-aha2 ,imitation1 #aha-ahd2 ,prep>ation ( = ,dye+1 #aei-afb2 ,/5cill+ (1 #bai-bbc1 #bdj2 ,te/s = ,weight$1 #agc1 #agd2 ,v>ieties (1 #aeg-afj2 ,weight+ (1 #afi-age2 ,wild1 #aeg-aei1 #afd-afg ,ske9 ,dye+ #abi1 #acj1 #afc ,soap1 uses (1 9 ,dye+1 #fj1 #fa1 #afa-aff1 #aga ,soda ,a% 7,sodium ,c>bonate71 #bg1 #bh1 #hh ,sodium ,bic>bonate1 #bg1 #bh ,sodium ,c>bonate4 ,see ,soda ,a% ,sodium ,hydrosulphite1 #ce1 #ig1 #ih1 #ajd1 #aje1 #aah1 #bji1 #baj1 #bcg-bda ,sodium ,hydroxide 7,cau/ic ,soda71 #ig1 #aje ,sodium ,sulphate 7,glaub]'s ,salt71 #abh ,sodium ,sulphide1 #he1 #hf1 #hh ,/>*+ 7= ,fea!rs71 #acd-acf ,/5cils & ,/5cill+1 #baa-bbh1 #bbh-bda ,/5cil ,salt1 #bbc1 #bbd1 #bci ,/ripp+1 #abf1 #acg1 #aff1 #afg ,sulphur ,colors1 #he-ij1 #ajb1 #aaa1 #agi1 #ahj1 #bbd1 #bcg1 #bch ,tann9 7,tannic ,acid71 #ah1 #cj1 #ca1 #ade1 #adf1 #aga ,tann+1 #adc-adh ,?ree-,color ,%ades1 #gi-ha ,ti$ & ,dis*>g$ ,"w1 #bjh-baa ,ti$ & ,dy$ ,"w1 #ca1 #aib-baa ,ties & ,/ops1 #bad-bag ,t9 salts z ,mordants1 #aa1 #ai ,t9 ,weight+ ( ,silk1 #aga-age ,tjant+s4 ,see ,batik1 #bdd-bed 8,topp+10 #aaa ,turkey ,r$1 #aa1 #bb1 #ef1 #eg ,turkey ,r$ ,oil 7,aliz>9e ,assi/ant71 #hh1 #ajf1 #bcb ,turm]ic 7,indian ,saffron71 #ag ,tussah ,silk4 ,see ,wild ,silk ,tyrian ,purple1 #ab-af1 #ia ,vat ,colors4 ,see ,indigo1 also #ajb-ajh1 #bbb-bbe ,vat ,dye+1 #id-ajj1 #agh-ahj ,vegetable ,colors1 #h-aa1 #ag-ai1 #bj-be ,viscose 79 ,artificial ,silk71 #ahe1 #ahf ,wa%+1 ,fa/ness to1 #fd-fg1 #hi1 #ajj1 #ajc1 #abd1 #abe1 #acg1 #aff1 #agd-aha ,weight+ ( ,silk1 #agj-age ,woad1 #i1 #aj ,wood1 ,dye+ (1 #beh ,wood1 ,et*+ (1 by ,batik ,process1 #bei ,wool1 ,dye+ (1 #eh1 #hf1 #abh-aca ,wool1 ,/5cill+ on1 #bba ,wr+]s1 ,use ( 9 ,dye+1 #ch ,,transcrib]',s ,,note ,illu/rations 9 ?is e,book h be5 position$ betwe5 p>agraphs & outside quotations4 ,9 v]sions ( ?is e,book t support hyp]l9ks1 ! page ref]5ces 9 ! ,li/ ( ,illu/rations lead to ! correspond+ illu/rations4 ,illu/rations )\t captions h _h a description add$1 ?is is d5ot$ ) p>5!ses4 ,! index 0 n *eck$ = prop] alphabetization or correct page ref]5ces4 ,obvi\s typographical errors & punctuation errors h be5 correct$ aft] c>eful comp>ison ) o!r occurr5ces )9 ! text & consultation ( ext]nal s\rces4 ,"s hyph5s 9 words h be5 sil5tly remov$1 "s add$1 :5 a pr$om9ant pref]5ce 0 f\nd 9 ! orig9al book4 ,except = ^? *anges not$ bel[1 all misspell+s 9 ! text1 & inconsi/5t or ar*aic usage1 h be5 reta9$4 ,pg #aja3 remov$ duplicate #8to' 9 #8are apt to to 8rub40'4