,illustration3 ,,ugly-,,girl ,,papers ,,from ,,harpers ,,bazar ,,reprinted ,,from 8,,harper',s ,,bazar40 ,,the ,,ugly-,,girl ,,papers2 ,,or1 ,,hints ,,for ,,the ,,toilet4 ,illustration ,,new ,,york3 ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,,publishers1 ,,franklin ,,square4 ,entered according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahgd1 by ,,harper ,,brothers1 ,in the ,office of the ,librarian of ,congress1 at ,washington4 ,,to ,,aunt ,,susan1 ,,the ,,dear ,,and ,,handsome ,,old ,,lady ,,who ,,never ,,needed ,,any ,,of ,,these ,,recipes1 ,,let ,,me ,,offer ,,my ,,first ,,book4 ,s4 ,d4 ,p4 ,,preface4 ,by means of these scattered chapters the writer has come to know women better--their traditions1 desires1 and delights4 ,if through these pages women should know themselves and what they may become in regard and temper for their lovers1 friends1 children1 and their own sakes1 it will well reward the pleasant labor which has already met such kind appreciation4 ,begun by chance1 to make an agreeable article or two for ,harper's ,bazar1 the 8,ugly-,girl ,papers0 were continued by request1 and have brought the writer into friendly bearings with many of the readers of the ,bazar4 ,to their questions and hints these chapters owe more of their value than appears on the surface2 and the little book goes out hoping to meet1 if not new friends1 at least some old ones4 ,the science of the toilet is well-nigh as delicate as that of medicine2 and as no prescription has yet proved a specific for disease1 no recipe can reach all cases of complexion4 ,i could wish for this book the good-will and consideration of physicians1 under whose advice it may be hoped its suggestions will approve themselves of wide service4 ,s4 ,d4 ,p4 ,,contents4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,woman's ,business to be ,beautiful4--,how to ,acquire a ,clear ,complexion4--,regimen for ,purity of the ,blood4--,carbonate of ,ammonia and ,powdered ,charcoal4--,stippled ,skins4--,face ,masks4--,oily ,complexions4--,irritations of the ,skin4--,lettuce as a ,cosmetic4--,cooling ,drinks4--,sun-,baths4--,bread and ,molasses ,page #i ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,care of the ,hair4--,children's ,hair4--,when to ,cut it4--,ammonia ,washes4--,glycerine and ,ammonia4--,pomades4--,how to ,brush the ,hair4--,cutting the ,ends4--,german ,method of ,treating the ,hair4--,southernwood ,pomade4--,hair-,dyes4--,dyeing the ,eyebrows and ,eyelashes4--,superfluous ,hair4--,depilatories4--,washes for the ,eyelashes and ,eyebrows #bb ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,elegance of ,manner4--,grace of the ,latin ,races4--,the ,secret of ,grace4--,gliding ,movement4--,calisthenics4--,erectness of ,figure4--,shoulder ,braces4--,how to ,acquire ,sloping ,shoulders4--,care of the ,feet4--,the ,art of ,walking4--,picturesque ,carriage of ,southern ,women #ce ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,n4 ,p4 ,willis as a ,critic of ,beauty4--,the ,perfume of the ,presence4--,charm of ,good ,circulation4--,chills are ,incipient ,congestion4--,paper ,clothing4--,luxuries of the ,bath4--,a ,substitute for ,sea-,baths4--,to ,secure ,fragrant ,breath4--,delicate ,dentifrices4--,fine ,cologne4--,a ,list of ,fragrance #dh ,,chapter ,v4 ,morals of ,paint and ,powder4--,antique ,toilet ,arts4--,washington ,ladies4--,making ,up the ,face4--,whitening the ,arms4--,tints of ,rouge4--,to ,make ,french ,rouge4--,milk of ,roses4--,greuze ,tints4--,coarse ,complexions ,caused by ,powder4--,color for the ,lips4--,crystal and ,gold ,hair ,powder4--,dyeing ,blonde ,wigs4--,to ,darken the ,hair4--,champagne and ,black-,walnut ,bark4--,doom of the ,complexion ,artist #ei ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,rcamier's ,training4--,diana of ,poitiers' ,bath4--,high ,beauty of ,maturity4--,the ,worth of ,beauty4--,george ,eliot on ,complexions4--,dr4 ,cazenave4--,barley ,paste for the ,face4--,prescriptions of the ,roman ,ladies4--,to ,remove ,pimples4--,cascarilla ,wash4--,varnish for ,wrinkles4--,acetic ,acid for ,comedones4--,to ,remove ,mask4--,lady ,mary ,montagu4--,habit of ,italian ,ladies4--,wash of ,vitriol #gj ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,shining ,pallor4--,lustrous ,faces4--,golden ,freckles4--,tiger-,lily ,spots4--,sun ,photographs4--,nitre ,removes ,freckles4--,old ,english ,prescription4--,for ,yachting4--,almond-,oil4--,buttermilk as a ,cosmetic4--,rosemary and ,glycerine4--,lotion for ,prickly ,heat4--,for ,musquitoes4--,protecting ,hair from ,sea ,air4--,fashionable ,gray ,hair4--,dark ,eyes and ,silver ,hair4--,to ,restore ,dark ,hair4--,bandoline4--,cold ,cream4--,almond ,pomade4--,for ,skin ,diseases4--,sulphurous ,acid #gg ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,service of ,beauty4--,not for ,vanity1 but ,perfection4--,eyebrows of ,petrarch's ,laura4--,fashionable ,baths4--,trimming the ,eyelashes4--,luxury of the ,toilet4--,its ,magnetic ,influence4--,a ,safe ,stimulant4--,amateurs of the ,toilet4--,cosmetic ,gloves4--,to ,refine the ,skin of the ,shoulders and ,arms4--,sulphate of ,quinine for the ,hair4--,for the ,eyebrows and ,eyelashes4--,a ,harmless ,dye4--,to ,remove ,sallowness4--,a ,hint for ,stout ,people4--,perfumed ,bathing-powder #hf ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,hope for ,homely ,people4--,two ,vital ,charms4--,the ,way to ,live4--,sunrise and ,open ,air4--,bleached by the ,dawn4--,live at ,sunny ,windows4--,in ,balconies and ,parks4--,christiana's ,breakfast4--,brown ,steak and ,good-humor4--,true ,bread4--,device for ,stiff ,shoulders4--,corsets and ,girdles4--,the ,latter more ,needed4--,how to be ,pleased with ,one's ,self #ie ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,bonniest ,kate in ,christendom4--,a ,word to ,mothers and ,aunts4--,different ,vanities4--,the ,sorrows of ,ugly ,women4--,recipes of an ,ancient ,beauty4--,sand ,wash4--,color for the ,nails4--,embrocation for the ,hands4--,soap to ,bleach the ,arms4--,freckle ,lotions4--,artistic ,enthusiasm at the ,toilet #ajh ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,a ,dark ,potion4--,olive-oil and ,tar for the ,face4--,olive-tar for ,inhalation4--,carbolic ,lotion for ,pimples4--,cure for ,musquito ,bites4--,pale ,blondes4--,a ,french ,marquise4--,deepening ,colors by ,sunlight4--,seductive ,cosmetics4--,nose-machine4--,finger ,thimbles #aag ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,removal of ,superfluous ,hair4--,effects of ,high ,living4--,work of ,typhoid ,fever4--,roman ,tweezers4--,lola ,montez's ,recipes4--,paste of ,wood-ashes4--,bleaching ,arms with ,chloride4--,cautions about ,depilatories4--,public ,baths4--,improving ,complexions by the ,sulphur ,vapor-bath4--,how ,arabian ,women ,perfume ,themselves4--,profuse ,hair1 ,sign of ,nature's ,bounty #abe ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,madame ,celnart's ,works of the ,toilet4--,literature of ,beauty4--,cares of the ,toilet4--,arts of ,coiffure and ,lacing4--,how to ,hold a ,needle ,gracefully4--,iris ,powder for ,tresses4--,arts of ,italian ,women4--,depilatory used in ,harems4--,spirit of ,pyrtre4--,herbs used by ,greek ,women4--,mexican ,pomade4--,dusky ,perfumed ,marbles4--,lost ,perfumes4--,sultanas' ,lotion4--,brilliant ,paste for ,neck and ,arms4--,baking ,enamel #acd ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,the ,last of the ,rose4--,weighing in the ,balances4--,to ,love and to be ,loved4--,the ,enigma of ,love4--,its ,power over the ,lot of ,men4--,inspiration in the ,looks4--,the ,land of ,spring4--,the ,duchess of ,devonshire4--,women at and after ,thirty4--,training of ,emotion4--,warming the ,voice4--,crow's-feet at the ,opera4--,bohemian ,arsenic ,waters4--,recipe from ,madame ,vestris4--,milk of ,roses4--,sweet-oils4--,opera-dancers' ,prescription for ,restoring ,suppleness #adf ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,the ,fearful ,malady of which no one ,dies4--,esprit ,odontalgique4--,gray ,pastilles4--,important to ,smokers4--,mouth ,perfumes4--,care of the ,breath4--,directions for ,bathing4--,perfumes for the ,bath4--,bazin's ,pte4--,quality of ,soaps4--,bathing and ,anointing the ,feet4--,nicety of ,stockings4--,delicate ,shoe ,linings4--,feet of ,pauline ,bonaparte #aee ,,chapter ,,xvi4 8,the ,leaves are ,full of ,joy40--,nobility of the ,body4--,its ,possibilities4--,brain and ,heart ,dependent on it4--,physical ,culture ,imperative in ,america4--,our ,contempt of ,health4--,easier to be ,magnificent than ,clean4--,distilled ,water for ,every ,use4--,substitute for ,stills4--,vapor and ,sulphur ,baths4--,bran ,baths4--,oatmeal for the ,hands4--,frequency of ,baths4--,remedies for ,hepatic ,spots #afe ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,the ,banting ,system4--,a ,quaint ,author4--,trials of ,corpulency4--,result of ,living on ,sixpence a ,day4--,indifference of ,doctors4--,a ,wise ,surgeon4--,relation of ,glucose to ,obesity4--,diet for ,stout ,people4--,no ,starch1 no ,sugar4--,losing ,flesh at the ,rate of a ,pound a ,week4--8,human ,beans40--,humors of ,banting's ,tract4--,his ,gratitude4--,honors to ,dr4 ,harvey4--,one ,day with ,dives1 the ,next with ,lazarus4--,bromide of ,ammonia #age ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,a ,letter4--,trials of a ,plain ,woman4--,the ,best ,husband in the ,world4--,burdock ,wash for the ,hair4--,for ,children's ,hair4--,oil of ,mace as a ,stimulant4--,to ,restore ,color to the ,hair4--,sperm-oil a ,powerful ,hair ,restorer4--,the ,cheapest ,hair-,dye4--,cure for ,chilblains4--,loose ,shoes the ,cause of ,corns4--,pyroligneous ,acid for ,corns4--,turpentine and ,carbolic ,acid for ,soft ,corns #ahe ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,a ,talk about ,complexions4--,delicate ,lotion4--,cause of ,rough ,faces4--,sun ,painting and ,bleaching4--,court ,ladies ,refusing to ,wash their ,faces4--,experiments with ,olive-tar4--,consumption and ,clear ,faces4--,rev4 ,w4 ,h4 ,h4 ,murray on ,olive-tar4--,porcelain ,women4--,drawing ,humors to the ,surface4--,what is to be ,done for the ,weak ,women8 #aib ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,sulphur ,baths4--,bleaching ,old ,faces4--,experiments in ,bathing4--,cautions4--,need of ,public ,baths4--,their ,proper ,prices4--,method of ,giving ,sulphur ,vapor-baths4--,hot ,baths for ,hot ,weather4--,russian ,baths at ,home4--,improvements ,needed in ,public ,baths4--,what they ,should be4--,what they ,are4--,the ,russian ,vapor-bath4--,after-,sensations4--,brig htness and ,lightness of ,health4--,reverence for the ,physical4--,influence of ,bathing on the ,nerves and ,passions4--,necessity of ,public ,baths #aih ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,devices of ,uneasy ,age4--,bread ,paste and ,court-plaster to ,conceal ,wrinkles4--,accepting the ,situation4--,plain ,women and ,agreeable ,toilets4--,examples4--,the ,rector's ,daughter4--,dressing on ,two ,hundred a ,year4--cru ,linen and ,white ,nansook4--,a ,senator's ,wife4--,a ,washington ,success4--,dull1 ,thin ,faces4--,hay-colored ,hair4--,advantages of ,lining ,rooms with ,mirrors #bab ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,physical ,education of ,girls4--,a ,woman's ,value in the ,world4--,high-bred ,figures4--,antique ,races4--,inspiration of ,art not ,vanity4--,the ,trying ,age4--,dress1 ,food1 and ,bathing for ,young ,girls4--,a ,veto on ,close ,study4--,braces and ,backboards4--,never ,talk of ,girls' ,feelings4--,exercise for the ,arms4--,singing ,scales with ,corsets off4--,development of the ,bust4--,open-work ,corsets the ,best4--,the ,bayaderes of ,india and their ,forms4--,the ,delicacy due ,young ,girls4--,a ,frank but ,needed ,caution4--,care of the ,figure after ,nursing #bbd ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,hands and ,complexions4--,preparing for ,parties4--,refining ,rough ,faces4--,carbolic ,baths4--,chalk and ,cascarilla4--,glycerine ,wash4--,school-girls' ,flushed ,hands and ,faces4--,to ,soften the ,hands4--,red ,noses4--,secrets of ,making-up4--,cologne for the ,eyes4--,cosmetic ,gloves4--,to ,impart a ,brilliant ,complexion #bch ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,women's ,looks and ,nerves4--,a ,low-toned ,generation4--,children and their ,ways4--,brief ,madness4--,women in the ,woods4--,singing4--,work well done the ,easiest4--,sleep the ,remedy for ,temper4--,hours for ,sleep4--,the ,great ,medicines--,sunshine1 ,music1 ,work1 and ,sleep #bdg ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,changing ,wigs and ,chignons4--,matching ,braids4--,frizzing the ,hair4--,crimping-pins4--,blonde ,hair-pins4--,what ,colors ,hair4--,bleaching ,tresses4--,sulphur ,paste4--,foxy ,locks4--,freshening ,switches #beg ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,hair and ,complexion4--,black ,dyes4--,persian ,blue-,black4--,peroxide of ,hydrogen4--,chloride of ,gold4--,transient ,dyes #bfg ,,the ,,ugly-,,girl ,,papers4 ,,chapter ,i4 ,woman's ,business to be ,beautiful4--,how to ,acquire a ,clear ,complexion4--,regimen for ,purity of the ,blood4--,carbonate of ,ammonia and ,powdered ,charcoal4--,stippled ,skins4--,face ,masks4--,oily ,complexions4--,irritations of the ,skin4--,lettuce as a ,cosmetic4--,cooling ,drinks4--,sun-,baths4--,bread and ,molasses4 ,the first requisite in a woman toward pleasing others is that she should be pleased with herself4 ,in no other way can she attain that self-poise1 that satisfaction1 which leaves her at liberty to devote herself successfully to others4 ,i appeal to the ugly sisterhood to know if this is not so4 ,could a woman be made to believe herself beautiful1 it would go far toward making her so4 ,those hopeless1 shrinking souls1 alive with devotion and imagination1 with hearts as fit to make passionate and worshiped lovers1 or steadfast and inspiring heroines1 as the fairest ,venus of the sex1 need not for an instant believe there is no alleviation for their case1 no chance of making face and figure more attractive and truer exponents of the spirit within4 ,there is scarcely any thing in the history of women more touching than the homage paid to beauty by those who have it not4 ,no slave among her throng of adorers appreciated more keenly the beauty of ,rcamier than the skeleton-like1 irritable ,madame ,de ,chateaubriand4 ,the loveliness of a rival eats into a girl's heart like corrosion2 every fair curling hair1 every grace of outline1 is traced in lines of fire on the mind of the plainer one1 and reproduced with microscopic fidelity4 ,it is a woman's business to be beautiful4 ,she recommends every virtue and heroism by the grace which sets them forth4 ,women of genius are the first to lay the crown of womanhood on the head of the most beautiful4 ,mere fashion of face and form are not meant by beauty1 but that symmetry and brightness which come of physical and spiritual refinement4 ,such are the heroines of ,scott1 ,disraeli1 and ,bulwer1 as inspiring as they are rare4 ,toward such ideals all women yearn4 ,who will say that this most natural feeling of the feminine heart may not have some fulfillment in the first thirty years of life8 ,this limit is given because the latest authorities in social science assert that woman's prime of youth is twenty-six1 moving the barriers a good ten years ahead from the old standard of the novelist1 whose heroines are always in the dew of sixteen4 ,in the very first place1 one may boldly say that beauty1 or rather fascination1 is not a matter of youth1 and no woman ought to sigh over her years till she feels the frost creeping into her heart4 ,men of the world understand well that a woman's wit is finest1 and her heart yields the richest wealth1 when experience has formed the fair and colorless material of youth4 ,a sweet girl of seventeen and a high-bred beauty of thirty1 if well preserved1 may dispute the palm4 ,i do not mean to decry rose-buds and dew4 ,one hardly knows which to love them for most--their loveliness or their briefness4 ,but women who look their thirties in the face should not lay down the sceptre of life1 or fancy that its delights for them are over4 ,they are young while they seem young4 ,then we may boldly set about renovating the outward form1 sure that ,nature will respond to our efforts4 ,the essence of beauty is health2 but all apparently healthy people are not fair4 ,the type of the system must be considered in treatment4 ,the brunette is usually built up of much iron1 and the bilious secretion is sluggish4 ,the blonde is apt to be dyspeptic1 and subject to disturbances of the blood4 ,from these causes result freckles1 pimples1 and that coarse1 indented skin stippled with punctures1 like the tissue of pig-skin--a fault of many otherwise clear complexions4 ,the fairest skins belong to people in the earliest stage of consumption1 or those of a scrofulous nature4 ,this miraculous clearness and brilliance is due to the constant purgation which wastes the consumptive1 or to the issue which relieves the system of impurities by one outlet4 ,we must secure purity of the blood by less exhaustive methods4 ,the diet should be regulated according to the habit of the person4 ,if stout1 she should eat as little as will satisfy her appetite2 never allowing herself1 however1 to rise from the table hungry4 ,a few days' resolute denial will show how much really is needed to keep up the strength4 ,when recovering from severe nervous prostration1 years ago1 the writer found her appetite gone4 ,the least morsel satisfied hunger1 and more produced a repugnance she never tried to overcome4 ,she resumed study six hours a day and walked two miles every day from the suburbs to the centre of the city1 and back again4 ,breakfast usually was a small saucer of strawberries and one ,graham cracker1 and was not infrequently dispensed with altogether4 ,lunch was half an orange--for the burden of eating the other half was not to be thought of2 and at six o'clock a handful of cherries formed a plentiful dinner4 ,once a week she did crave something like beef-steak or soup1 and took it4 ,but1 guiding herself wholly by appetite1 she found with surprise that her strength remained steady1 her nerves grew calm1 and her ability to study was never better4 ,this is no rule for any one1 farther than to say persons of well-developed physique need not fear any limitation of diet for a time which does not tell on the strength and is approved by appetite4 ,never eat too much2 never go hungry4 ,for weak digestion nothing is so relished or strengthens so much as the rich beef tea1 or rather gravy1 prepared from the beef-jelly sold by first-rate grocers4 ,this is very different from the extracts of beef made by chemists4 ,the condensed beef prepared by the same companies which send out the condensed milk is preferable1 in all respects1 as to taste and nourishment4 ,a table-spoonful of this jelly1 dissolved by pouring a cup of boiling water on it1 and drank when cool1 will give as much strength as three fourths of a pound of beef-steak broiled4 ,for singers and students1 who need a light but strengthening diet1 nothing is so admirable4 ,nervous people1 and sanguine ones1 should adopt a diet of eggs1 fish1 soups1 and salads1 with fruit4 ,this cools the blood1 and leaves the strength to supply the nerves instead of taxing them to digest heavy preparations4 ,lymphatic people should especially prefer such lively salads as cress1 pepper-grass1 horseradish1 and mustard4 ,these are nature's correctives1 and should appear on the table from ,march to ,november1 to be eaten not merely as relishes1 but as stimulating and beneficial food4 ,they stir the blood1 and clear the eye and brain from the humors of spring4 ,nervous people should be more sparing of these fiery delights1 and eat abundantly of golden lettuce1 which contains opium in its most delicate and least injurious state4 ,the question of fat meat does not seem satisfactorily settled4 ,i should compound by using rich soups which contain the essence of meats1 and supply carbon by salad-oil and a free use of nuts or cream4 ,plump1 fair people may let oily matters of all kinds carefully alone4 ,thin ones should eat vegetables--if they can find a cook who knows how to make them palatable4 ,it is strange that in this country1 which produces the finest vegetables1 fit for the envy of foreign cooks1 not one out of a hundred knows how to prepare them properly4 ,people who are anxious to be rid of flesh should choose acids1 lemons1 limes1 and tamarinds1 eat sparingly of dry meats1 with crackers instead of bread1 and follow strictly the advice now given4 ,to clear the complexion or reduce the size1 the blood must be carefully cleansed4 ,two simple chemicals should appear on every toilet-table--the carbonate of ammonia and powdered charcoal4 ,no cosmetic has more frequent uses than these4 ,the ammonia must be kept in glass1 with a glass stopper1 from the air4 ,french charcoal is preferred by physicians1 as it is more finely ground1 and a large bottle of it should be kept on hand4 ,in cases of debility and all wasting disorders it is valuable4 ,to clear the complexion1 take a teaspoonful of charcoal well mixed in water or honey for three nights1 then use a simple purgative to remove it from the system4 ,it acts like calomel1 with no bad effects1 purifying the blood more effectually than any thing else4 ,but some simple aperient must not be omitted1 or the charcoal will remain in the system1 a mass of festering poison1 with all the impurities it absorbs4 ,after this course of purification1 tonics may be used4 ,many people seem not to know that protoxide of iron1 medicated wine1 and 8bracing0 medicines are useless when the impurities remain in the blood4 ,the use of charcoal is daily better understood by our best physicians1 and it is powerful1 and simple enough to be handled by every household4 ,the purifying process1 unless the health is unusually good1 must be repeated every three months4 ,we absorb in bad food and air more unprofitable matter than nature can throw off in that time4 ,if diet and atmosphere were perfect1 no such aid would be needed2 but it is the choice between a very great and a small evil in existing conditions4 ,a free use of tomatoes and figs is1 by the way1 recommended1 to maintain a healthy condition of the stomach1 and the seeds of either should not be discarded4 ,the most troublesome task is to refine a stippled skin whose oil-glands are large and coarse4 ,there may not be a pimple or freckle on the face1 and the temples may be smooth1 but the nose and cheeks look like a pin-cushion from which the pins have just been drawn4 ,patience and many applications are necessary1 for one must1 in fact1 renew the skin4 ,the worst face may be softened by wearing a mask of quilted cotton wet in cold water at night4 ,roman ladies used poultices of bread and asses' milk for the same purpose2 but water1 and especially distilled water1 is all that is needful4 ,a small dose of taraxacum every other night will assist in refining the skin4 ,but it will be at least a six weeks' work to effect the desired change2 and it will be a zealous girl who submits to the discomfort of the mask for that length of time4 ,the result pays4 ,the compress acts like a mild but imperceptible blister1 and leaves a new skin1 soft as an infant's4 ,bathing oily skins with camphor dries the oil somewhat1 when the camphor would parch nice complexions4 ,the opium found in the stalks of flowering lettuce refines the skin singularly1 and may be used clear1 instead of the soap which sells so high4 ,rub the milky juice collected from broken stems of coarse garden lettuce over the face at night1 and wash with a solution of ammonia in the morning4 ,blondes who are unbeautiful are apt to have divers irritations of the skin1 which their darker neighbors do not know4 ,people of this type also have a tendency to acid stomachs1 the antidote for which is a dose of ammonia1 say one quarter of a spoonful in half a glass of water1 taken every night and morning4 ,this also prevents decay of the teeth and sweetens the breath1 and is less injurious than the soda and magnesia many ladies use for acid stomachs4 ,in summer the system should be kept cool by bathing at night and morning1 and by tart drinks containing cream of tartar4 ,small quantities of nitre1 prescribed by the physician1 may be taken by very sanguine persons who suffer with heat2 but pale complexions should seek the sun when its power is not too great1 and be careful1 of all things1 to avoid a chill4 ,this deadens the skin1 paints blue circles round the eyes1 and leaves the hands an uncertain color4 ,these precautions may seem burdensome1 but they all have been practiced by those who prize beauty4 ,nothing is so attractive1 so suggestive of purity of mind and excellence of body1 as a clear1 fine-grained skin4 ,strong color is not desirable4 ,tints1 rather than colors1 best please the refined eye in the complexion4 ,some mothers are so anxious to secure this grace for their daughters that they are kept on the strictest diet from childhood4 ,the most dazzling ,parian could not be more beautiful than the cheek of a child ,i once saw who was kept on oatmeal porridge for this effect4 ,at a boarding-school1 ,i remember1 a fashionable mother gave strict injunctions that her daughter should touch nothing but brown bread and syrup4 ,this was hard fare2 but the carmine lips and magnolia brow of the young lady were the envy of her schoolmates1 who1 however1 were not courageous enough to attempt such a rgime for themselves4 ,,chapter ,,ii4 ,care of the ,hair4--,children's ,hair4--,when to ,cut it4--,ammonia ,washes4--,glycerine and ,ammonia4--,pomades4--,how to ,brush the ,hair4--,cutting the ,ends4--,german ,method of ,treating the ,hair4--,southernwood ,pomade4--,hair-,dyes4--,dyeing the ,eyebrows and ,eyelashes4--,superfluous ,hair4--,depilatories4--,washes for the ,eyelashes and ,eyebrows4 ,st4 ,paul approved himself no less a connoisseur of female beauty than a censor of decorum when he wrote1 8,if a woman have long hair1 it is a glory to her40 ,this is in no wise inconsistent with the other apostolic passage which discourages ornate hair-dressing1 for abundant shining hair needs less care to arrange than a scanty crop that must be disposed to the best advantage4 ,the woman whose magnificent chevelure reaches to her waist1 thick as one's wrist when tightly bound1 needs no braid nor cataract1 finger-puff nor snow-curl1 nor band of gold or amber to crown herself4 ,every girl ought to have such hair4 ,mothers should remember that such gifts of nature form a dowry which has no little weight in the incidents of a woman's life1 and should cultivate assiduously the locks of their daughters4 ,it is not best to keep them closely cut3 after five years they should never be touched by scissors1 save to clip the ends once a month1 as hereafter explained1 but should be smoothly braided in long ,marguerite plaits1 the most convenient style1 unless the mother is ambitious of seeing her pet's hair in curls4 ,hardly any locks will resist good discipline1 if taken in the downy stage of infancy and submitted to papillotes4 ,it is a mistaken notion that a luxuriant growth of hair in childhood weakens the head4 ,nature is not in the habit of providing superfluities4 ,the ,breton women are noted for their magnificent hair1 which is allowed to grow from childhood4 ,the barbarity of the fine comb should be abolished in civilized nurseries1 and a daily or semi-weekly wash with ammonia or soap substituted1 with a thorough brushing afterward4 ,a child's head is too tender for any rasping process2 even knotted snarls should be cut rather than pulled out4 ,send tow-headed children into the sun as much as possible1 that its rays may affect every particle of the iron in the blood1 and change the flaxen colors to more agreeable shades4 ,when the hair has been neglected1 cut it to an even length1 and wash the scalp nightly with soft water into which ammonia has been poured4 ,this may be as strong as possible at first1 so that it does not burn the skin4 ,afterward the proportions may be three large spoonfuls of ammonia to a basin of water4 ,apply with a brush1 stirring the hair well while the head is partially immersed4 ,do this at night1 so that it may have a chance to dry1 for nothing is so disagreeable as hair put up wet and turned musty4 ,wring and wipe it thoroughly1 then comb and shake out the tresses in a draft of air till nearly dry1 when it may be done up in a cotton net4 ,night-caps heat the head and injure hair4 ,ammonia is the most healthful and efficient stimulus known for the hair1 and quickens its growth when nothing else will do so4 ,a healthy system will supply oil enough for the hair if the head is kept clean4 ,if the scalp is unnaturally dry1 a mixture of half an ounce of carbonate of ammonia in a pint of sweet-oil makes the most esteemed hair invigorator4 ,glycerine and ammonia make a delicate dressing for the hair1 and will not soil the nicest bonnet4 ,pomades of all kinds are voted vulgar1 and justly4 ,the only excuse for their use is just before entering a sea bath1 when a thorough oiling of the hair prevents injury from salt water4 ,it should be speedily washed off with a dilution of ammonia4 ,when a growth of young hair is established1 it ought to lengthen at least eight inches a year in a vigorous subject4 ,hair is an index of vitality4 ,the women of the tropics1 with their abounding health1 have luxuriant chevelures4 ,among ,spanish and ,south ,american women hair a yard long1 in a coil as thick as the wrist1 is the rule1 and not the exception4 ,the warmth of those latitudes favors the secretions1 and stimulates every organ to its fullest development4 ,to obtain like results1 we must try to obtain the same conditions of luxuriant health4 ,a good circulation is essential to fineness and pleasing color of the hair4 ,the scalp must be stimulated by frequent brushing1 as well as by the ammonia bath4 ,a lady of fashion decreed one hundred strokes of the brush to be given her celebrated locks daily1 and those who have tried the experiment find that it is not at all too much4 ,given quickly1 this number occupies three minutes in bestowing1 and surely this is little enough time to give a fine head of hair4 ,once a month the ends of the hair should be cut1 to remove the forked ends1 which stop its growth4 ,the patrons of a certain ,new ,york school of high repute will remember the young daughter of an ,albany gentleman1 whose wonderful hair was the pride of the establishment4 ,the child was about ten years old1 and her heavy tresses reached literally to the floor4 ,she was not unfrequently shown to visitors as a phenomenon1 veiled in this flood of hair4 ,on inquiry1 it was found that no peculiar treatment was given it beyond cutting the ends regularly every month for years4 ,an old authority gives the following as the ,german method of treating the hair4 ,the women of that country are known to have remarkably luxuriant locks3 ,once in two weeks wash the head with a quart of soft water in which a handful of bran has been boiled and a little white soap dissolved4 ,next rub the yolk of an egg slightly beaten into the roots of the hair2 let it remain a few minutes1 and wash it off thoroughly with pure water1 rinsing the head well4 ,wipe and rub the hair dry with a towel1 and comb it up from the head1 parting it with the fingers4 ,in winter do all this near the fire4 ,have ready some soft pomatum of beef marrow1 boiled with a little almond or olive-oil1 flavored with mild perfume4 ,rub a small quantity of this on the skin of the head after it has been washed as above4 ,this may be efficient1 but in this age women prefer the cleanlier method of stimulating the hair without pomade4 ,if any ladies are as fond of stirring up cosmetics and washes as were the wife and daughters of the ,vicar of ,wakefield1 they may try these highly recommended recipes3 ,the following is said to be an excellent curling fluid3 ,put two pounds of common soap cut small into three pints of spirits of wine1 and melt together1 stirring with a clean piece of wood2 add essence of ambergris1 citron1 and neroli1 about a quarter of an ounce of each4 ,rowland's ,macassar ,oil for the hair3 ,take a quarter of an ounce of the clippings of alkanet root1 tie this in a bit of coarse muslin1 and suspend it in a jar containing eight ounces of sweet-oil for a week1 covering from the dust4 ,add to this sixty drops of the tincture of cantharides1 ten drops of oil of rose1 neroli and lemon each sixty drops4 ,let these stand three weeks closely corked1 and you will have one of the most powerful stimulants for the growth of the hair ever known4 ,take a pound and a half of southernwood and boil it1 slightly bruised1 in a quart of old olive-oil1 with half a pint of port-wine or spirit4 ,when thoroughly boiled1 strain the oil carefully through a linen cloth4 ,repeat the operation three times with fresh southernwood1 and add two ounces of bear's grease or fresh lard4 ,apply twice a week to the hair1 and brush it in well4 ,where a hair-dye is deemed essential1 the deplorable want may be met by this recipe1 which has the merit of being less harmful than most of the nostrums in use3 ,boil equal parts of vinegar1 lemon juice1 and powdered litharge for half an hour1 over a slow fire1 in a porcelain-lined vessel4 ,wet the hair with this decoction1 and in a short time it will turn black4 ,lola ,montez gives a hair-dye which is said to be instantaneous1 and as harmless as any mineral dye used4 ,it is made from gallic acid1 ten grains2 acetic acid1 one ounce2 tincture of sesquichloride of iron1 one ounce4 ,dissolve the gallic acid in the sesquichloride1 and add the acetic acid4 ,wash the hair with soap and water1 and apply the dye by dipping a fine comb in it and drawing through the hair so as to color the roots thoroughly4 ,let it dry2 oil and brush4 ,white lashes and eyebrows are so disagreeably suggestive that one can not blame their possessor for disguising them by a harmless device4 ,a decoction of walnut-juice should be made in the season1 and kept in a bottle for use the year round4 ,it is to be applied with a small hair-pencil to the brows and lashes1 turning them to a rich brown1 which harmonizes with fair hair4 ,it may be applied to the edge of the hair about the face and neck1 when that is paler than the rest4 ,let me repeat that the best remedy for ill-used tresses is strict care2 glossy1 vitalized tresses1 kept in order by constant brushing1 assume by degrees a better color4 ,it is a mistake to soak red hair with oil in the hope of making it darker2 it should be kept wavy and light as possible1 to show off the rich lights and shadows with which it abounds4 ,the sun has a good effect on obnoxious shades of hair if it is otherwise well attended to1 and red or white locks should be worn in floating masses1 waved by fine plaiting at night1 or by crimping-pins1 which do not injure hair unless worn too tight4 ,pale hair shows a want of iron in the system1 and this is to be supplied by a free use of beef-steaks1 soups1 pure beef gravies1 and red wines4 ,salt-water bathing strengthens the system1 and acts favorably on the hair4 ,as to color1 hardly any shade is unlovely when luxuriant and in a lively condition4 ,it is only when diseased or uncared for that any color appears disagreeable4 ,sandy hair1 when well brushed and kept glossy with the natural oil of the scalp1 changes to a warm golden tinge4 ,i have seen a most obnoxious head of this color so changed by a few years' care that it became the admiration of the owner's friends1 and could hardly be recognized as the withered1 fiery locks once worn4 ,superfluous hair is as troublesome to those who have it as baldness is to others4 ,there is no way to remove it but by dilute acids or caustics1 patiently applied time after time1 as the hair makes its appearance4 ,the mildest depilatories known are parsley water1 acacia-juice1 and the gum of ivy4 ,it is said that nut-oil will prevent the hair from growing4 ,the juice of the milk-thistle1 mixed with oil1 according to medical authority1 prevents the hair from growing too low on the forehead1 or straggling on the nape of the neck4 ,as ,willis says1 ,nature often slights this part of her masterpiece4 ,muriatic acid1 very slightly reduced1 applied with a sable pencil1 will destroy the hair2 and1 to prevent its growing1 the part may be often bathed with strong camphor or clear ammonia4 ,the latter will serve as a depilatory1 but causes great pain1 and must be quickly washed off4 ,the depilatories sold in the shops are strong caustics1 and leave the skin very hard and unpleasant4 ,bathe the upper lip1 or other feature afflicted with superfluous hair1 with ammonia or camphor1 as strong as can be borne1 and the hair will die out in a few weeks4 ,moles1 with long hairs in them1 should be touched with lunar caustic repeatedly4 ,a large1 dark mole on a lady's neck was reduced to an unnoticeable white spot1 but the nitrate of silver caused a sore for a week in place of the mole4 ,care should be taken to brush the back hair upward from childhood1 to prevent the disfiguring growth of weak1 loose hairs on the neck4 ,fine clean wood-ashes1 mixed with a little water to form a paste1 makes a tolerable depilatory for weak hair1 without any pain4 ,strong pearlash washes also kill out poor hair4 ,a clever scientific man suggested that the growth of hair might be hastened by frequently applying electric currents to it1 or bathing it in electrical water4 ,similar experiments have been made on vital tissues with remarkable success4 ,but this theory must be left for further development4 ,the eyelashes may be improved by delicately cutting off their forked and gossamer points1 and anointing with a salve of two drachms of ointment of nitric oxide of mercury and one drachm of lard4 ,mix the lard and ointment well1 and anoint the edges of the eyelids night and morning1 washing after each time with warm milk and water4 ,this1 it is said1 will restore the lashes when lost by disease4 ,the effect of black lashes is to deepen the color of gray eyes4 ,they may be darkened for theatricals by taking the black of frankincense1 resin1 and mastic burned together4 ,this will not come off with perspiration4 ,,chapter ,,iii4 ,elegance of ,manner4--,grace of the ,latin ,races4--,the ,secret of ,grace4--,gliding ,movement4--,calisthenics4--,erectness of ,figure4--,shoulder ,braces4--,how to acquire ,sloping ,shoulders4--,care of the ,feet4--,the ,art of ,walking4--,picturesque ,carriage of ,southern ,women4 ,was it not ,madame de ,genlis who described the education in manners under the old rgime of ,france8 ,in her memoirs she speaks of hating ,paris1 when she came from the provinces1 for the ordeal she underwent there to fit her for polite society4 ,she was taught1 what she fancied she knew already1 how to walk1 and was placed in the stocks two or three hours a day to teach her the right position of her feet in standing4 ,a corset and back-board were provided to form an erect habit4 ,whether in her day or later ones1 the elegancies of manner are not cultivated without sincere pains4 ,nature1 indeed1 creates some models of such refined proportions and such informing spirit that they fall at once into the curves of grace2 but these are meant for models1 and happily nothing forbids those of lesser merit to attempt the same lesson4 ,are not some born masters of the piano1 full-flown at once over the first difficulties of music8 ,but does this hinder any pupil from six hours' daily drill1 if need be1 to grasp the same difficulties8 ,the one end is to be attained1 whether instantly or not2 and in some cases the most laborious is by all means the most delightful player4 ,courage1 then4 ,the same thing is true of other efforts than those of the key-board2 and it is quite as certain that the woman who trains herself to be graceful will be so1 as that the clumsy young pedant at the scales will1 in time1 rush victoriously through the 8,shower of ,pearls10 the 8,cascade of ,roses10 or any other drawing-room favorite of gelatinized octaves4 ,for the first comfort1 it must be owned that ,american women have the least natural grace of any nation in the world4 ,english women are usually well trained in a sort of martinet propriety of attitude which suits their solid contours2 but neither ,anglo-,saxon race knows an approach to those lengthened curves1 those bends of every slender joint and supple muscle1 which fill the eye in looking at a woman of ,latin race4 ,i watched a ,spanish-,american girl in the gallery of the ,united ,states ,senate one night1 in order to seize1 if possible1 her charm of gesture4 ,she was rounded1 yet fine in figure1 and seemed to be1 as ,i can best phrase it1 all muscle4 ,no one could think of her bones as having any more stiffness than the pliant sprays of an elm4 ,she leaned on the railing of the balcony1 not straight forward as even the elegant and delicate diplomatic ,english ladies did1 but lengthwise1 as if reclining2 and the bend of her supple wrist1 with the black and gold fan1 was simply inimitable to an ,american woman4 ,those intransferable curves bewitched the eye even to pain2 but something was gained in that five minutes' study which ,i reduce to two points3 ,sideway movements and attitudes please more than those either forward or backward4 ,the secret of grace is to teach every joint of the body to bend all that it can4 ,take the last point first1 and you have all that you need to teach the finest grace4 ,to the dumb-bells1 to the calisthenic exercises and work as if you were qualifying yourself to be a contortionist at a circus4 ,vitalize every fibre1 as the hot-blooded ,southerner is vitalized1 and the body will play into grace of itself4 ,the first thing is the hardest--to stand straight4 ,most people are satisfied indeed to attain this point of physical and polite culture1 and never get beyond it4 ,erect stiffness is better than crookedness4 ,to be admirable1 the figure must be perfectly flat in the shoulders4 ,no projecting shoulder-blades1 no curves are allowed here1 however pleasing they may be elsewhere4 ,a stout figure can hardly be unrefined if it is flat behind4 ,a pair of inelastic shoulder-braces must be called into requisition2 and these should be made of coutille1 or satin jean1 two inches wide1 and corded at the edge4 ,make them barely long enough to reach the belt of the skirts worn1 and button on them4 ,set the shoulders perfectly flat against the wall1 and find the distance between their blades2 fasten a broad strap the same length--not more than two inches1 very likely--by sewing it to the straps behind even with the lower edge of the scapula4 ,this is the best1 as well as the cheapest shoulder-brace to be found4 ,if well proportioned1 and all the measure taken scant1 it can not fail to draw the shoulders into place4 ,excellent teachers of physical training say that the will alone should be used to force one's self to stand straight4 ,this is true of a person in perfect health4 ,but round shoulders often result from weakness or sedentary pursuits1 against whose influence it is useless to struggle2 and ,i would not debar any half-invalid from the luxury of the support given by a strict pair of braces4 ,they relieve the heart and lungs by throwing the weight of the chest on the back1 where it belongs1 instead of crowding it down on the breast4 ,to correct the ugly rise of the shoulders which always accompanies curvature1 and sometimes exists without it1 weights must be used4 ,nothing is more unfeminine than the straight line of shoulder1 which properly belongs to a cuirassier or an athlete4 ,some mothers make their young folks walk the floor with a pail of water in each hand1 to give their shoulders a graceful droop4 ,a substitute may be worn in one's room while at work1 in the shape of an outside brace of triple gray linen1 having two extra straps buckling round the tip of each shoulder1 one long end reaching the belt1 with a wedge-shaped lead or iron weight hooked on it4 ,this is heroic practice1 but effectual2 and its pains are amply compensated by lines of figure which are the surest exponents of high breeding4 ,the position of the feet is not to be neglected in the lesson of standing4 ,the toes should be widely turned out1 to balance well2 and if the foot is inclined to turn in1 this may be remedied by having the boot heels made higher on the inside4 ,this will throw the foot into a position to develop the arched instep4 ,a crooked leg is a matter for surgical treatment2 and in these days of curative ingenuity1 with steel braces it will be but the work of a few months to bring the most awkward limb into shape4 ,those who have seen the wonders wrought with deformed children who have crooked limbs and bodies will consider it a simple matter to bring a partial disfiguration under control4 ,as to the size of the feet1 sensible people will never be persuaded that any degree of pressure which can be borne without suffering is injurious4 ,nature knows how to protect herself4 ,a clever old shoe-dealer gave as his experience that people who always wear tight shoes never have corns4 ,it is the alternation of tight and loose shoes that gives rise to these torments4 ,the great-toe joint ought not to project beyond the line of the foot4 ,i know a zealous young girl who regularly screwed her bare foot up in a linen bandage before going to bed1 to keep it in shape4 ,for painful swelling of the feet in warm weather1 no remedy is as effectual as an ice-cold foot-bath for five minutes in the evening or when they are most troublesome4 ,this1 however1 must never be taken without first wetting the head plentifully with ice-water1 and keeping a cold bandage on it all the while4 ,it is good to soak the feet for fifteen minutes in warm water at least twice a week4 ,this keeps them elastic1 and in delicate1 pliant condition4 ,an elegant carriage is the patent of nature's nobility1 and appears of itself when the body is held into proper attitudes1 and made properly elastic by exercise4 ,the great cause of all stiffness is want of exertion--a general rustiness of all the limbs4 ,to the slender child of the ,south the climate supplies a degree of relaxation and suppleness which dispenses with the need of action4 ,the women of ,south ,american colonies seldom walk for exercise1 yet their movements are full of grace4 ,the stimulus of thorough circulation1 so potent and softening1 can only be gained in our colder latitude by exertion4 ,a lazy woman may be picturesque in a room or in a carriage1 but never on foot4 ,americans have one-sided ideas of grace in walking4 ,a woman as straight as a dart1 who moves without any perceptible movement of the hips or limbs1 is considered an excellent walker4 ,but this unvarying rectitude is far from the poetry of motion4 ,watch the slight balancement of a graceful ,french woman1 and you will see an ease1 a spontaneity1 and variety of motion which set the former by comparison in the light of a bodkin out for a 8constitutional40 ,a fine walk is an affair of proper balance4 ,a clever friend1 who has spent more time in the study of women's ways and manners in different countries than one can think profitable1 has some unique views on the subject of their walking4 ,he says the haughty women of ,old ,spain carry their weight mainly on the hips1 which gives an indescribable stiffness of demeanor4 ,americans do the same1 throwing the weight a little more on the thigh1 without bending the knee4 ,french women carry the weight on the calf of the leg1 and the knee bends very much at each step1 while the body is carried with the least balancement of the shoulders1 and the head1 so far from being held like a cockade1 or the head of tongs1 is easy4 ,la tte dgage1 les paules tombante is the rule for a good style4 ,try the difference of contracting the muscles in the calf of the leg in walking1 with the knee bent sensibly at each step4 ,the body involuntarily throws itself back1 and a lightness of motion is the result1 which is impossible with the usual swing of the leg from the hips in the stiff walk of ,saxon women4 ,the same authority says that the far-famed serpentine glide of the creole1 which travelers admire and vainly try to describe1 comes from a peculiar movement of the hips4 ,the weight of the figure is thrown on the loins1 and half of the body moves alternately at each step1 not in a wriggle1 as it is caricatured at the ,north1 but with a soft turn of the shoulders corresponding1 and a smoothness which betrays the sensuous temperament and luxurious physique4 ,such is the walk of the women of ,venezuela1 ,bogota1 and ,la ,plata4 ,such a gait1 however1 would hardly be accepted in the ,champs ,elyses as suggestive of high refinement4 ,the women of ,alabama and ,georgia have traits enough of this walk to make them among the most graceful in the world1 as far as carriage goes4 ,the creoles of the ,gulf have this sinuous glide1 betraying a flexibility of limb which we can scarcely imagine4 ,to gain this pliancy1 twisting movements of gymnastics are especially suitable4 ,gyrations of each limb1 the head and body1 produce1 in a few weeks' practice1 an enviable degree of elasticity1 which gives the carriage something more than the up and down1 forward and back1 straight lines of motion with which ladies ordinarily favor us4 ,a smooth1 long step1 the weight of the body on the loins1 where nature intended it should be1 and the legs propelled from thence1 without stiffness at the knee or obtrusive motion of the hips1 is1 probably1 the ideal of walking2 such as one finds both in a highly trained woman and in the untaught perfection of a ,south ,sea ,islander4 ,i have spoken at length on the topic of walking1 because its importance as an art of grace can not be overrated1 and because it has a still deeper bearing on women's health4 ,the training which secures an elegant carriage is precisely that which counteracts the tendency to a dozen fatal relaxations at different points of the frame1 and prevents their appearance4 ,no one ought to say that walking brings on the disorders which blanch and wither feminine life4 ,the cause is the fatal1 inherited weakness of constitution1 shown by either undue redness or pallor1 by indolence or excitability1 which is a slow decay from its first breath1 and poisons the hopes and the loveliness of so many women4 ,these doomed beings must work out their own salvation1 and make themselves anew in the effort4 ,the weaknesses would develop whether they walked or not4 ,the care should be to adjust exercise and nourishment1 stimulus and rest1 in due proportion4 ,but the weak woman must have separate counsel1 for she by no means comes under the head of these unpremeditated consultations4 ,,chapter ,,iv4 ,n4 ,p4 ,willis as a ,critic of ,beauty4--,the ,perfume of the ,presence4--,charm of ,good ,circulation4--,chills are ,incipient ,congestion4--,paper ,clothing4--,luxuries of the ,bath4--,a ,substitute for ,sea-,baths4--,to ,secure ,fragrant ,breath4--,delicate ,dentifrices4--,fine ,cologne4--,a ,list of ,fragrance4 ,when ,willis died1 ,american society lost its great personal critic4 ,no other writer shows such insight into the subtile elements of women's beauty1 or speaks so assuredly on points of mere outward attraction4 ,that gentle and gracious critic who blesses the order of ,old ,bachelors dissects feminine manner with zest1 but is not given to that mention of ear-locks and finger-tips which made 8,people ,i have ,met0 such a conserve of hints for the dressing-table4 ,it is a pity such a connoisseur of feminine graces could not have taken half a hundred distinguished specimens into his training to show the world such women as fill the ideal of a refined man of the world4 ,willis was susceptible to beauty wherever he found it3 a perfect ear on the head of a plain country girl would not miss the glance of this artist1 and he betrays what single charms may rivet the regard of a man of taste a dozen times in those glorious sketches we never hope to see excelled4 ,you remember one of his heroines was remarkable for the perfume which exhaled from her person4 ,we are not to suppose that this most fascinating gift was due to ,coudray's sachets1 or to hedyosima on her hair4 ,from repeated experience1 verified by that of very discerning and sensitive persons1 it is affirmed that certain people of fine organism and perfect health have a fragrance belonging to their presence like scent to a flower4 ,one of the most powerful feminine novelists of the day said that she always knew when a favorite brother had been in a room by the slight indefinable perfume that followed him4 ,his pillow breathed it1 and his easy-chair1 and it was perceived even by comparative strangers4 ,i have known persons innocent of using perfume1 whose fragrant presence was recognized by every one who came near them4 ,in all cases this was accompanied by a bodily condition of perfect health and much magnetic attraction4 ,this may be named the first in that list of subtile personal properties which constitute the strongest and most enduring of physical charms1 and which are not discussed with any proportion to their potency4 ,we do not stop to ask what pleases us2 refinement attracts1 sweetness detains us1 and we are only too glad to lie under the spell4 ,may a plain woman reach her hand for these gifts of pleasing8 ,surely4 ,they were meant to be nature's compensation for the lack of chiseled features and ruffled tresses4 ,to reach this subtile refinement requires such preparation as the virgins underwent for the court of ,ahasuerus3 8,six months with oil of myrrh1 and six months with sweet odors0--if not in kind1 yet in care4 ,the secret of lively spirits1 even temper1 and magnetic presence can never be attained in the world without a perfect circulation of the blood4 ,it may be out of season to say that people often keep themselves too cold2 but lay the hint away till next ,october1 when the weather changes1 and mark the facts4 ,our seasons are two thirds cold or chilly2 our habits are sedentary1 which tends to reduce the force of the system2 as a people we are not of excitable temperament2 and yet stout men and hearty doctors1 who go rushing through their business all day1 complain because women sit in overheated rooms1 and can not endure draughts in the halls4 ,there is but one answer to this3 ,nature is her own guide1 and it is one of her laws that no creature can be uncomfortable in any way without losing by it4 ,if the tone of the system is so low that a woman feels chilly in a room at seventy degrees1 put the heat at once up to eighty1 or higher1 till she feels luxuriously warm4 ,chilliness is a symptom to be most dreaded4 ,when the blood forsakes the skin1 it clogs the heart1 the internal organs1 and lays the train for those diseases of the time--neuralgia1 paralysis1 rheumatism1 and congestion4 ,in fact1 every person who suffers from one of these stupid chills is in a state of incipient congestion4 ,how hateful is the miserable economy which stints fires in the raw days of ,may and ,september1 because the calendar of household routine decrees that it is not the season for stoves and grates6 ,not less irritating is it to sit with a circle half shivering in a large parlor1 because the full-blooded1 active master of the house has decided that it is nonsense to turn the heat on4 ,the slow tortures such unfeeling people inflict on their innocent victims will be witnesses against them some day1 to their great surprise4 ,even in summer many delicate persons find the skin always cold4 ,those who are so susceptible should never be without protection4 ,the most convenient is a sheet of tissue paper quilted in marcelline silk1 and worn between the shoulders1 the most sensitive point of the whole body for feeling cold4 ,the comfort of this slight device can hardly be imagined4 ,paper is a non-conductor of heat1 but porous enough to admit air1 so that it never leaves the dampness of rubber or oil-silk protectors4 ,even in winter the warmth of these slender linings exceeds that of a sheet of wadding4 ,in the change of the year1 when it is not cold enough for flannel1 and one can not be comfortable without some extra clothing1 this is just what is wanted4 ,a sheet of quilted paper should be worn for the back1 and one for the chest1 the arms cased in the legs cut from old silk or thread stockings1 which cling to the flesh1 and keep it from the air better than any other article4 ,thus equipped1 a delicate woman may face the subtle chills of spring and autumn without a shiver4 ,added warmth is not necessary about the trunk of the body till extreme cold weather4 ,clothes fit closely there1 and the vital centres always generate most heat1 so that only the extremities and the upper part of the chest need protection4 ,the daily bath needs to be administered with some care4 ,the value of hot bathing is hardly understood4 ,in congested circulation nothing is so effective as a ten minutes' bath at eighty-five degrees1 the water covering the body entirely1 followed by a cold sponge-bath1 quickly given1 and immediate drying4 ,bath-towels are not half large enough as commonly made4 ,they should be small sheets in size1 like the real ,turkish bath-towels used by the women of ,constantinople1 which envelop the body1 and dry it at once4 ,a bath should never chill one1 and the feelings may be safely trusted as guides in the matter4 ,to a constitution strong enough to meet it1 even though somewhat depressed at the time1 nothing is so inviting as the stimulus of the cold bath1 the instant's chill followed by the rush of warm blood all over the body4 ,for weak systems an invigorant is found1 so simple and effective that the wonder is why it was not used long ago4 ,when the season or circumstances forbid a stay on the sea-coast1 a substitute nearly if not quite as strengthening is found in an ammonia bath4 ,a gill of liquid ammonia in a pail of water makes an invigorating solution1 whose delightful effects can only be compared to a plunge in the surf4 ,weak persons will find this a luxury and a tonic beyond compare4 ,it cleanses the skin1 and stimulates it wonderfully4 ,after such a bath the flesh feels firm and cool like marble4 ,more than this1 the ammonia purifies the body from all odor of perspiration4 ,those in whom the secretion is unpleasant will find relief by using a spoonful of the tincture in a basin of water1 and washing the armpits well with it every morning4 ,the feet may be rid of odor in the same way4 ,but what shall destroy that foe to sentiment1 that bane of all beauty1 an offensive breath8 ,i can not imagine a woman could fall in love with ,hyperion if he had this drawback4 ,the suggestion of unrefinement and of physical disorder it gives would weigh against all the moral and intellectual worth which might lie behind it4 ,the antidote1 happily1 is as simple as the evil is prevailing4 ,with attention to the health1 and brushing the teeth at least night and morning1 all besides that is needed to secure a sweet breath is to dissolve a bit of licorice the size of a cent in the mouth after using the tooth-brush4 ,this will even counteract the effects of indigestion1 and does not convey the unpleasant suggestion of cachous and spice1 that they are used to hide an offense4 ,licorice has no smell1 but it sweetens the mouth and stomach4 ,a stick of it should be chipped for use1 and kept in a box on the toilette4 ,a tincture which restores soundness to the gums is one ounce of coarsely powdered ,peruvian bark steeped in half a pint of brandy for a fortnight4 ,gargle the mouth night and morning with a teaspoonful of this tincture1 diluted with an equal quantity of rose-water4 ,for decaying teeth make a balsam of two scruples of myrrh in fine powder1 a scruple of juniper gum1 and ten grains of rock alum1 mixed in honey1 and apply often4 ,it is useful also to chew a bit of orris-root1 which ,browning says ,florentine ladies love to use in mass-time2 or to wash the mouth with the tincture of myrrh1 or take a bit of myrrh the size of a hazel-nut at night1 or a piece of burned alum4 ,a very agreeable dentifrice is made from an ounce of myrrh in fine powder and a little powdered green sage1 mixed with two spoonfuls of white honey4 ,the teeth should be washed with it every night and morning4 ,to clean the teeth1 rub them with the ashes of burned bread4 ,it must be thoroughly burned1 not charred4 ,spite of all that is said against it1 charcoal holds the highest place as a tooth-powder4 ,it has the property1 too1 of opposing putrefaction1 and destroying vices of the gums4 ,it is most conveniently used when made into paste with honey4 ,a fine ,cologne is prepared from one gallon of deodorized alcohol1 or spirit obtained from the ,catawba grape1 which is nearly if not quite equal to the grape spirit which gives ,farina ,cologne its value4 ,to this is added one ounce of oil of lavender1 one ounce of oil of orange1 two drachms of oil of cedrat1 one drachm of oil of neroli or orange flowers1 one drachm of oil of rose1 and one drachm of ambergris4 ,mix well1 and keep for three weeks in a cool place4 ,to this list of fragrance add a recipe for common ,cologne to use as a toilet water4 ,it is oil of bergamot1 lavender1 and lemon1 each one drachm2 oil of rose and jasmine1 each ten drops2 essence of ambergris1 ten drops2 spirits of wine1 one pint4 ,mix and keep well closed in a cool place for two months1 when it will be fit for use4 ,ladies will be grateful for this who have known what trouble it is to find a refreshing ,cologne which does not smell like cooking extract with lemon or vanilla4 ,if with these hints a woman can not keep herself fragrant and lovely in person1 her case must need the help of the physician4 ,,chapter ,v4 ,morals of ,paint and ,powder4--,antique ,toilet ,arts4--,washington ,ladies4--,making ,up the ,face4--,whitening the ,arms4--,tints of ,rouge4--,to ,make ,french ,rouge4--,milk of ,roses4--,greuze ,tints4--,coarse ,complexions ,caused by ,powder4--,color for the ,lips4--,crystal and ,gold ,hair ,powder4--,dyeing ,blonde ,wigs4--,to ,darken the ,hair4--,champagne and ,black-,walnut ,bark4--,doom of the ,complexion ,artist4 ,the time has gone by when it was a matter of church discipline if a woman painted her face or wore powder4 ,nor is it any serious reflection on her moral character if she go abroad with her complexion made up in the forenoon1 however it may call her taste in question4 ,all who paint their faces and look forth at their windows are not visited with hard names1 else the parlor of every house on the side-streets of ,new ,york might have its ,jezebel waiting the dinner-hour and the return of masculine admirers4 ,george declares he could never own a wife who used powder2 and yet ,annie comes down1 looking innocent in her pink bows1 with a little white bloom on each temple1 and a suspicious odor of ,lubin's ,violet floating round her4 ,i don't think ,george meditates divorce on that account4 ,there is something noble and ingenuous in the sight of an uncovered skin2 but we reconcile ourselves to the pearly falsehood1 accepting the situation with the false hair1 not so gray as it is in front1 and the long1 artificial-shaped nails1 and the cramped feet4 ,every body knows they are inventions1 and accepts them as such1 like paste brilliants at a theatre4 ,the arts of the toilet are as old as ,thebes4 ,the painted eye of desire1 the burning cheek and dyed nails1 were coeval with the wisdom of ,alexandria4 ,of old the ,roman ladies used the fine dust of calcined shells and the juices of plants to restore their freshness of color4 ,there is no end to the modern contrivances for the same purpose4 ,crushed geranium leaves1 and the petals of artificial roses which contain carmine1 friction with red flannel1 and the juice of strawberries1 are homely substitutes for rouge4 ,the women of the ,south are more given to the use of cosmetics than their ,northern sisters4 ,perhaps ,washington sets the example to all the states2 for nowhere else is seen such liberal use of paint and powder1 skillfully applied1 as at the capital4 ,there women paint for the breakfast-table1 and carry the deception every where4 ,the ,spanish-,american ladies make the absurd mistake of supposing their rich complexions and dark eyes are not more enticing to ,northern eyes than our own cold beauties2 so1 by the help of toilet bottles1 they present faces like ,lady ,washington geraniums from nine in the morning till they ice themselves to frozen whiteness for the evenings4 ,whited sepulchres is the phrase forever ringing in one's head at sight of this folly4 ,what indignation has seized one at sight of ,madame ----1 the witty and enviable1 who had the weakness to mask her lustrous1 tropical1 ,murillo colors--which enchanted every ,northern heart--with poor plaster of burned oyster-shells6 ,it was very well for the ,treasury blondes1 who looked like human peaches till one saw them close1 to dabble in white and pink4 ,it suited their style4 ,for these superb ,creoles and ,sevillians1 never6 ,both from principle and preference1 this book discountenances paint and powder4 ,it believes that a woman needs no other cosmetics than fresh air1 exercise1 and pure water1 which1 if freely used1 will impart a ruddier glow and more pearly tint to the face than all the rouge and lily-white in ,christendom4 ,but if she must resort to artificial beauty1 let her be artistic about it1 and not lay on paint as one would furniture polish1 to be rubbed in with rags4 ,the best and cheapest powder is refined chalk in little pellets1 each enough for an application4 ,powder is a protection and comfort on long journeys or in the city dust4 ,if the pores of the skin must be filled1 one would prefer clean dust1 to begin with4 ,a layer of powder will prevent freckles and sun-burn when properly applied4 ,it cools feverish skins1 and its use can be condoned when it modifies the contrast between red arms and white evening dresses4 ,in amateur theatricals it is indispensable1 the foot-lights throwing the worst construction on even good complexions4 ,in all these cases it is worth while to know how to use it well4 ,the skin should be as clean and cool as possible1 to begin4 ,a pellet of chalk1 without any poisonous bismuth in it1 should be wrapped in coarse linen and crushed in water1 grinding it well between the fingers4 ,then wash the face quickly with the linen1 and the wet powder oozes in its finest state through the cloth1 leaving a pure white deposit when dry4 ,press the face lightly with a damp handkerchief to remove superfluous powder1 wiping the brows and nostrils free4 ,this mode of using chalk is less easily detected than when it is dusted on dry4 ,the best foundation for ,lubin's powder is gained by soaping the face well1 and taking care not to rinse off all the smooth1 glossy feeling it leaves4 ,dry the face without wiping1 and the thinnest layer of oil is left1 which holds the dry powder1 without that mealy look which ,lubin is apt to leave4 ,to whiten the arms for theatricals1 rub them first with glycerine1 not letting the skin absorb it all1 and apply chalk4 ,the country practice is to substitute a tallow candle for the glycerine2 but ours is a progressive age4 ,at least the moral feeling leads one to spare an escort's coat-sleeve4 ,rouge needs consideration before rashly applying4 ,there are more tints of complexion than there are roses1 and one can only be successful by observing the natural colors of a beauty of her own type4 ,some cheeks have a wine-like1 purplish glow1 others a transparent saffron tinge1 like yellowish-pink porcelain2 others still have clear1 pale carmine2 and the rarest of all1 that suffused tint like apple blossoms4 ,by making her own rouge a lady can graduate her pallet--that is to say1 her cheeks--at pleasure4 ,the following preparations have the virtue1 at least1 of being harmless1 which can not be said of most paints and powders4 ,red-lead1 bismuth1 arsenic1 and poisonous vegetable compounds are used in the common cosmetics4 ,bismuth is most frequent2 and its least effect is to give the cheeks it has whitened a crop of purplish pimples1 which would indicate that the wearer was freely 8dispoged0 to the same tastes as ,sairey ,gamp4 ,the hideously coarse complexion of many public singers is partly due to their use of bismuth powder4 ,an old dispensatory gives the following formula for a harmless cosmetic under the name of ,almond ,bloom3 ,take of ,brazil dust1 one ounce2 water1 three pints2 boil1 strain1 and add six drachms of isinglass1 two of cochineal1 three of borax1 and an ounce of alum2 boil again1 and strain through a fine cloth4 ,use as a liquid cosmetic4 ,devoux ,french rouge is thus prepared3 ,carmine1 half a drachm2 oil of almonds1 one drachm2 ,french chalk1 two ounces4 ,mix4 ,this makes a dry rouge4 ,the milk of roses is made by mixing four ounces of oil of almonds1 forty drops of oil of tartar1 and half a pint of rose-water with carmine to the proper shade4 ,this is very soothing to the skin4 ,different tinges may be given to the rouge by adding a few flakes of indigo for the deep black-rose crimson1 or mixing a little pale yellow with less carmine for the soft ,greuze tints4 ,all preparations for darkening the eyebrows1 eyelashes1 etc41 must be put on with a small hair-pencil4 ,the 8dirty-finger0 effect is not good4 ,a fine line of black round the rim of the eyelid1 when properly done1 should not be detected1 and its effect in softening and enlarging the appearance of the eyes is well known by all amateur players4 ,a smeared1 blotchy look conveys an unpleasant idea of dissipation4 ,for the finger-tips1 alkanet makes a good stain4 ,an eighth of an ounce of chippings tied in coarse muslin1 and soaked for a week in diluted alcohol1 will give a tincture of lovely dye4 ,the finger-tips should be touched with jewelers' cotton dipped in this mixture4 ,hair-powder is made from powdered starch1 sifted through muslin1 and scented with oil of roses in the proportion of twelve drops to the pound4 ,crystal powder is glass dust1 obtained from factories1 or powdered crystallized salts of different kinds4 ,a golden powder may be procured by coloring a saturated solution of alum bright yellow with turmeric1 then allowing it to crystallize1 and reducing it to coarse powder4 ,this certainly has the merit of cheapness4 ,color for the lips is nothing more than cold cream1 with a larger quantity of wax than usual melted in it1 with a few drachms of carmine4 ,for vermilion tint use a strong infusion of alkanet instead of poisonous red-lead4 ,keep the chippings for a week in the almond-oil of which the cold cream is made1 and afterward incorporate with wax and spermaceti4 ,always tie alkanet in muslin when it is used for coloring purposes4 ,when blonde wigs are not attainable for theatricals1 a switch of dark hair may be bleached by soaking in strong vinegar1 and colored by an infusion of turmeric in ,champagne1 or by the liquor obtained from the tops of potatoes ready to flower1 mixed with water1 suffering it to steep twenty-four hours4 ,this is too poisonous ever to be used on the head with safety4 ,the walnut stain for skin or hair is made precisely like that for cloth1 by boiling the bark--say an ounce to a pint of water--for an hour1 slowly1 and adding a lump of alum the size of a thimble to set the dye4 ,apply with a little brush1 such as is used in water-colors1 to the lashes and eyebrows1 or with a sponge to the hair4 ,wrap the head in an old handkerchief when going to sleep1 or the moisture of the hair will stain the pillow-cases4 ,but one thing must be said3 the woman who has once taken to painting and coloring must go on painting and coloring2 rarely1 if ever1 does the complexion regain its bloom1 the skin its smoothness1 or the hair its gloss4 ,in most cases the operator must go on deepening the hue1 and in no case can he or she be sure of the shade or tint which successive applications will produce4 ,,chapter ,,vi4 ,rcamier's ,training4--,diana of ,poitiers1 ,bath4--,high ,beauty of ,maturity4--,the ,worth of ,beauty4--,george ,eliot on ,complexions4--,dr4 ,cazenave4--,barley ,paste for the ,face4--,prescriptions of the ,roman ,ladies4--,to ,remove ,pimples4--,cascarilla ,wash4--,varnish for ,wrinkles4--,acetic ,acid for ,comedones4--,to ,remove ,mask4--,lady ,mary ,montagu4--,habit of ,italian ,ladies4--,wash of ,vitriol4 ,the motto that used to haunt our souls over copy-books1 8,no excellence without great labor10 is as true about personal improvement as any thing else4 ,few celebrated beauties have gained their fame without use of those arts which must be the earliest of all1 since we have no record of their first teaching--the arts of the toilette4 ,madame ,rcamier1 who exercised more power by her beauty than any woman of modern times1 was bred by a most careful mother1 versed in all the mysteries of training4 ,her exceeding delicacy of complexion arose from the protection she gave it1 never going out except in her carriage1 and scarcely knowing what it was to set foot to the ground4 ,margaret of ,anjou and ,mary ,stuart1 in earlier times1 were wise as serpents in the magic of the toilet1 disdaining neither ,may dew nor less simple lotions for cheeks whereon the eye of the world was to dwell4 ,diana of ,poitiers bequeathed a legacy of value to her sex in commending the use of the rain-water bath1 which preserved her own beauty till1 at the age of sixty-five1 no one could be insensible to her4 ,ninon de l',enclos left the same testimony4 ,it is intolerable that women have not the ambition to preserve their health and charms to the latest date1 and give up their cases so shamefully soon4 ,an intelligent maturity chisels and refines the face to a high and feeling beauty2 that is to the attractions of youth what the aristocratic head of ,booth would be beside a pink-and-white lady-killer of society4 ,this serene and finished expression should find physical favor to accompany it4 ,nor is this to be gained1 as many say1 by leading a passive1 emotionless life4 ,people of vivid feeling are the youngest4 ,their quick alterations of mood make the face clean cut1 yet do not settle it in uniform furrows4 ,both grief and joy1 yearning passion and utter renunciation1 are needed to sculpture finely the statues for remembrance4 ,no one professing the loftiest aims1 who understands human nature1 can despise the care of personal beauty when1 combined with moral worth1 its influence is so irresistible4 ,look at the portraits of those renowned as moral and intellectual heroes2 it will be found their greatness was rarely associated with physical repulsiveness1 and though their faces in the conflicts of life grew seamed and worn1 yet in youth they must have been more than ordinarily remarked for beauty of a high order--,columbus and ,galileo and ,whitefield will do for examples4 ,and if the reader go through the range of feminine celebrities1 from the poets to missionary biographies1 8with portrait of the original10 not one face in ten will dispute what ,i have said4 ,least of all let any woman heed smiling scorn of her weakness in taking pains to secure a good complexion--the real clearness and color1 if she eschew the coarse pretense of powder and paint4 ,george ,eliot1 with her masculine sense1 bears witness to the irresistible tendency to associate a pure soul with a lucent complexion4 ,no woman can be disagreeable if she have this saving claim2 and there will be no apology for adding a few estimable recipes for the purpose from the collection of a foreign physician1 ,dr4 ,cazenave4 ,he recommends the following as a composition for the face3 ,three ounces of ground barley1 one ounce of honey1 and the white of one egg1 mixed to a paste1 and spread thickly on the cheeks1 nose1 and forehead1 before going to bed4 ,this must remain all night1 protecting the face by a soft handkerchief1 or bits of lawn laid over the parts on which the paste is applied4 ,wash it off with warm water1 wetting the surface with a sponge1 and letting it soften while dressing the hair or finishing one's bath4 ,repeat nightly till the skin grows perfectly fine and soft1 which should be in three weeks1 after which it will be enough to use it once a week4 ,always wash the face with warm water and mild soap1 rubbing on a little cold cream when exposing one's self to the weather4 ,this paste was used by the ,romans4 ,with this1 care must be taken to bathe daily in warm water1 using soap freely1 toning the system with a cold plunge afterward1 if one can bear it4 ,for pimples use this recipe3 thirty-six grains of bicarbonate of soda1 one drachm of glycerine1 one ounce of spermaceti ointment4 ,rub on the face2 let it remain for a quarter of an hour1 and wipe off all but a slight film with a soft cloth4 ,the best wash for the complexion given is cascarilla powder1 two grains2 muriate of ammonia1 two grains2 emulsion of almonds1 eight ounces3 apply with fine linen4 ,the frightful discoloration known as mask is removed by a wash made from thirty grains of the chlorate of potash in eight ounces of rose-water4 ,wrinkles are less apparent under a kind of varnish containing thirty-six grains of turpentine in three drachms of alcohol1 allowed to dry on the face4 ,the black worms called comedones call forth the simple specific of thirty-six grains of subcarbonate of soda in eight ounces of distilled water1 perfumed with six drachms of essence of roses4 ,but ,i prefer the advice of a clever home physician1 who lately told me that he removed comedones from the faces of girls who applied to him for the purpose by touching the head of each with a fine hair-pencil dipped in acetic acid--a nice operation1 as the acid must only touch the black spot1 or it will eat the skin4 ,remembering that ,lady ,mary ,wortley ,montagu quoted the habit of ,italian ladies to renew and refine their complexions by a wash of vitriol1 ,i begged to know how such a heroic application could safely be made4 ,the answer was that muriatic acid1 sixty per cent4 strong1 diluted in twelve parts of water1 might be used as a wash1 and gradually eat away the coarse outer envelope of the skin1 if any one had fortitude to bear a slow cautery like this4 ,lady ,mary records that she had to shut herself up most of a week1 and her face meantime was blistered shockingly2 but afterward the ,italian ladies assured her that her complexion was vastly improved4 ,on the whole1 the typhoid fever is preferable as an agent for clearing the complexion1 being perhaps less dangerous and more effective4 ,,chapter ,,vii4 ,shining ,pallor4--,lustrous ,faces4--,golden ,freckles4--,tiger-,lily ,spots4--,sun ,photographs4--,nitre ,removes ,freckles4--,old ,english ,prescription4--,for ,yachting4--,almond-,oil4--,buttermilk as a ,cosmetic4--,rosemary and ,glycerine4--,lotion for ,prickly ,heat4--,for ,musquitoes4--,protecting ,hair from ,sea ,air4--,fashionable ,gray ,hair4--,dark ,eyes and ,silver ,hair4--,to ,restore ,dark ,hair4--,bandoline4--,cold ,cream4--,almond ,pomade4--,for ,skin ,diseases4--,sulphurous ,acid4 ,the summer heats1 which make nature lovely1 are the bane of our fair-skinned ,northern girls4 ,southern frames receive the glowing warmth1 and grow paler and paler1 because--giving a matter of fact explanation of a beautiful appearance--the surface of the skin is cooled by the perspiration1 and the blood retreats to the central veins4 ,the 8shining pallor0 which poets love on the faces of their favorite creations is the sign and effect of concentrated passion of any kind in a quick1 electric nature4 ,i disbelieved in the expression a long time1 classing it with the 8marble flush0 and such freaks of nature in novels2 but the peculiar look has come under my eye more than once4 ,it is a very striking one1 as if the light came from within--a lustrous1 elevated expression1 too ethereal and of the spirit to be merely high-bred4 ,it is one of the refinements ,nature gives to her ideal pieces of humanity1 and nothing coarse lurks in the creation of the one who presents it4 ,the ,southern pallor is quite different--a dead but clear olive1 very admirable when the skin is fine4 ,northern paleness is relieved rather than disfigured by a few golden freckles4 ,they are more piquant than otherwise2 and girls with the pure complexion which attends auburn1 blonde1 and brown hair ought to consider them as caprices of nature to blend the hues of bright1 warm hair and snowy skin4 ,when as large1 and almost as dark as the patches on the tiger-lily1 every one will find them something to get rid of with dispatch4 ,freckles indicate an excess of iron in the blood1 the sun acting on the particles in the skin as it does on indelible ink1 bringing out the color4 ,a very simple way of removing them is said to be as follows3 ,take finely powdered nitre 7saltpetre71 and apply it to the freckles by the finger moistened with water and dipped in the powder4 ,when perfectly done and judiciously repeated1 it will remove them effectually without trouble4 ,an old ,english prescription for the skin is to take half a pint of blue skim-milk1 slice into it as much cucumber as it will cover1 and let it stand an hour2 then bathe the face and hands1 washing them off with fair water when the cucumber extract is dry4 ,the latter is said to stimulate the growth of hair where it is lacking1 if well and frequently rubbed in4 ,it would be worth while to apply it to high foreheads and bald crowns4 ,rough skins1 from exposure to the wind in riding1 rowing1 or yachting1 trouble many ladies1 who will be glad to know that an application of cold cream or glycerine at night1 washed off with fine carbolic soap in the morning1 will render them presentable at the breakfast-table1 without looking like women who follow the hounds1 blowzy and burned4 ,the simplest way to obviate the bad effects of too free sun and wind1 which are apt on occasion to revenge themselves for the neglect too often shown them by the fair sex1 is to rub the face1 throat1 and arms well with cold cream or pure almond-oil before going out4 ,with this precaution one may come home from a berry-party or a sail without a trace of that ginger-bread effect too apt to follow those pleasures4 ,cold cream made from almond-oil1 with no lard or tallow about it1 will answer every end proposed by the use of buttermilk1 a favorite country prescription1 but one which young ladies can hardly prefer as a cosmetic on account of its odor4 ,a delicate and effective preparation for rough skins1 eruptive diseases1 cuts1 or ulcers is found in a mixture of one ounce of glycerine1 half an ounce of rosemary-water1 and twenty drops of carbolic acid4 ,in those dreaded irritations of the skin occurring in summer1 such as hives or prickly heat1 this wash gives soothing relief4 ,the carbolic acid neutralizes the poison of the blood1 purifies and disinfects the eruption1 and heals it rapidly4 ,a solution of this acid1 say fifty drops to an ounce of the glycerine1 applied at night1 forms a protection from musquitoes4 ,though many people consider the remedy equal to the disease1 constant use very soon reconciles one to the creosotic odor of the carbolic acid1 especially if the pure crystallized form is used1 which is far less overpowering in its fragrance than the common sort4 ,those who dislike it too much to use it at night1 will find the sting of the bites almost miraculously cured and the blotches removed by touching them with the mixture in the morning4 ,this is penned with grateful recollection of its efficiency after the bites of ,jersey musquitoes a few nights ago4 ,babies and children should be touched with it in reduced form1 to relieve the pain they feel from insect bites1 but do not know how to express except by worrying4 ,two or three drops of attar of roses in the preparation disguises the smell so as to render it tolerable to human beings1 though not so to musquitoes4 ,ladies who find that sea air turns their hair gray1 or who are fearful of such a result1 should keep it carefully oiled with some vegetable oil2 not glycerine1 as that combines with water too readily to protect the locks4 ,the recipe for cold cream made with more of the almond-oil1 so as to form a salve1 is not a bad sea-dressing for the hair1 and the spermaceti and wax render it less greasy than ordinary preparations4 ,animal pomades grow rancid1 and make the head most unpleasant to touch and smell4 ,many preparations are given to restore the color to dark hair when it is lost through ill health or over-study4 ,the fashionables to-day1 with true taste1 admire gray hair when in profusion1 and deem it distinguished when accompanied by dark eyes1 to which the contrast adds a piercing lustre4 ,but those who consider themselves defrauded of their natural tints may use this recipe3 ,tincture of acetate of iron1 one ounce2 water1 one pint2 glycerine1 half an ounce2 sulphuret of potassium1 five grains4 ,mix well1 and let the bottle remain uncovered to pass out the foul smell arising from the potassium4 ,afterward add a few drops of ambergris or attar of roses4 ,rub a little of this daily into the hair1 which it will restore to its original color1 and benefit the health of the scalp4 ,ladies are annoyed by the tendency of their hair to come out of crimp or curl while boating or horseback-riding4 ,the only help is to apply the following bandoline before putting the hair in papers or irons3 ,a quarter of an ounce of gum-tragacanth1 one pint of rose-water1 five drops of glycerine2 mix and let stand overnight4 ,if the tragacanth is not dissolved1 let it be half a day longer2 if too thick1 add more rose-water1 and let it be for some hours4 ,when it is a smooth solution1 nearly as thin as glycerine1 it is fit to use4 ,this is excellent for making the hair curl4 ,moisten a lock of hair with it1 not too wet1 and brush round a warm curling-iron1 or put up in papillotes4 ,if the curl come out harsh and stiff1 brush it round a cold iron or curling-stick with a very little of the cosmetic for keeping stray hair in place1 or cold cream4 ,to the recipe given in the last chapter another is added1 of perhaps finer proportions3 ,oil of sweet almonds1 five parts2 spermaceti1 three parts2 white wax1 half a part2 attar of roses1 three to five drops4 ,melt together in a shallow dish1 over hot water1 strain through a piece of muslin when melted1 and as it begins to cool beat it with a silver spoon till quite cold and of a snowy whiteness4 ,it is well to rub it smooth on a slab of marble or porcelain before putting in glass boxes to keep4 ,for the hair use seven parts of almond-oil to the other proportions named4 ,the secret of making fine cold cream lies in stirring and beating it well all the time it is cooling4 ,those who have the misfortune to contract cutaneous disorders arising from exposure to the contact of the low and degraded--and charitable persons sometimes run narrow risks of this kind--or from scorbutic affections or the fumes of certain medicines1 each and any of which are liable to produce roughness and inflammation of the skin1 will be glad of a speedy and certain cure for their affliction4 ,it is a wash of sulphurous acid 7not sulphuric71 diluted in the proportion of three parts of soft water to one of the acid1 and used three or four times a day till relieved4 ,i knew a young lady whose fine complexion was ruined by the fumes of medicine she administered to her grandmother1 whom she tended with religious care2 and1 thinking there may be others in like case1 hasten to give this prescription4 ,sub rosa--all parasites on furniture1 human beings1 or pets are quickly destroyed by this application4 ,,chapter ,,viii4 ,service of ,beauty4--,not for ,vanity1 but ,perfection4--,eyebrows of ,petrarch's ,laura4--,fashionable ,baths4--,trimming the ,eyelashes4--,luxury of the ,toilet4--,its ,magnetic ,influence4--,a ,safe ,stimulant4--,amateurs of the ,toilet4--,cosmetic ,gloves4--,to ,refine the ,skin of the ,shoulders and ,arms4--,sulphate of ,quinine for the ,hair4--,for the ,eyebrows and ,eyelashes4--,a ,harmless ,dye4--,to ,remove ,sallowness4--,a ,hint for ,stout ,people4--,perfumed ,bathing-powder4 ,it is a wonder that so few educated people address themselves to the service of beauty in the human form4 ,it is refined to study draperies or design costumes for the adornment of the body1 but not to develop the perfection of the body itself4 ,hair-dressers1 perfumers1 and tailors find ample consolation for being the ninth part of men1 or something less1 in public estimation1 since the world finds their work a necessity1 and amply repays it4 ,who make fortunes faster among the working-classes than those who minister to the desire for beauty1 let us call it1 rather than the severer name of vanity8 ,the arts of the toilet are advanced to the rank of a profession abroad4 ,english fashion journals declare this in their advertisements4 ,establishments in ,london and at fashionable watering-places offer brightly furnished parlors where one may enjoy the luxurious soothing of every appliance of the toilet in succession4 ,the warm bath1 in all the appealing pleasure of marble1 porcelain1 and gold1 instead of dingy oil-cloths and reeking zinc basins1 gives place to the deft hands of the hair-bather and the chiropodist1 and these to the dresser1 who arranges the locks1 quickly and artificially dried1 in the most elegantly simple style4 ,then comes the cosmetic artist1 who removes blotches and specks from the face with quick acids1 laves it with soothing washes1 or applies emollient pastes which leave soft freshness behind4 ,the vulgarity of paint and enamel is not allowed in these establishments1 though the operators have good knowledge of all secrets of their art4 ,innoxious dyes are used as novices never can apply them1 superfluous hairs are removed1 and eyebrows and eyelashes are cared for by the most skillful hands4 ,the former have every unnecessary hair removed1 and are thinned to the penciled line they form in the portraits of ,venetian ladies1 who secured this peculiar charm in the same way4 ,if ,i could only find out how ,petrarch's ,laura trimmed her eyebrows1 and give the method to my readers6 ,with a pair of fairy-like scissors the lashes are trimmed a hair-breadth1 and brushed with sable pencils conveying an ointment which increases their growth4 ,the nails are polished1 and the hands indued with soft and perfumed oils which leave no trace4 ,picture the luxury of such a place and such attention1 instead of the frowzy rooms and careless servants of a common hair-dressing saloon6 ,the magnetic benefit of such operations ought to count for much in elegant physical culture4 ,it unmistakably soothes the system1 and freshens its powers better than any narcotic stimulant4 ,more than one of the most brilliant writers of the time is in the habit of bathing and making a full toilet before composition1 feeling its magic influence on the mind in rendering one's thoughts bright and happy4 ,but blessed water and simples1 chemicals and strokings1 do their work in stone-ware and top bedrooms as well as in baths lined with porcelain behind the portire of a ,pompadour dressing-room4 ,clever girls can do much for each other in these matters2 and let me hope no one will have to ask more than sixteen people before finding a friend with nerve enough to trim her eyelashes for her1 as an ambitious maiden once did4 ,a fresh handful of prescriptions for these amateurs is taken from ,paris authorities4 ,cosmetic gloves for which there is such demand are spread inside with the following preparation3 ,the yolks of two fresh eggs beaten with two teaspoonfuls of the oil of sweet almonds1 one ounce of rose-water1 and thirty-six drops of tincture of benzoin4 ,make a paste of this1 and either anoint the gloves with it1 or spread it freely on the hands and draw the gloves on afterward4 ,of course there is no virtue in the gloves save as they protect the hands from drying or soiling the bed-linen4 ,a paste for the skin of the shoulders and arms is made from the whites of four eggs boiled in rose-water1 with the addition of a grain or two of alum1 beaten till thick4 ,spread this on the skin and cover with old linen4 ,wear it overnight1 or all the afternoon before a party where one desires to appear in full dress4 ,this cosmetic gives great firmness and purity to the skin1 and may be used to advantage by persons having soft1 flabby flesh4 ,a wash to stimulate the growth of hair in case of baldness is made from equal parts of the tincture of sulphate of quinine and aromatic tincture4 ,for causing the eyebrows to grow when lost by fire1 use the sulphate of quinine--five grains in an ounce of alcohol4 ,for the eyelashes1 five grains of the sulphate in an ounce of sweet almond-oil is the best prescription2 put on the roots of the lashes with the finest sable pencil4 ,this must be lightly applied1 for it irritates the eye to finger it4 ,the best dye is this ,french recipe1 which is seen to be harmless at a glance3 ,melt together1 in a bowl set in boiling water1 four ounces of white wax in nine ounces of olive-oil1 stirring in1 when melted and mixed1 two ounces of burned cork in powder4 ,this will not take the dull bluish tinge of metallic dyes1 but gives a lustrous blackness to the hair like life4 ,to apply it1 put on old gloves1 cover the shoulders carefully to protect the dress1 and spread the salvy preparation like pomade on the head1 brushing it well in and through the hair4 ,it changes the color instantly1 as it is a black dressing rather than a dye4 ,a brown tint may be given by steeping an ounce of walnut bark1 tied in coarse close muslin1 in the oil for a week before boiling4 ,the bark is to be had at any large drug-store1 for about thirty cents an ounce4 ,the recipes which follow will be of special value in the warm days of early spring4 ,the first contains nearly all the vegetable medicines in common use for purifying the blood1 and will prevent the lassitude and bilious symptoms which overcloud many a sweet spring day4 ,when made by one's own hand1 so that the purity and excellence of the ingredients can be insured1 the mixture is far better than most of the blood-purifiers and tonics prescribed by the faculty4 ,it is given here because it removes the sallowness and unhealthy iris hues of the complexion at a season when a girl's cheek should wear its brightest1 clearest flame4 ,half an ounce each of spruce1 hemlock1 and sarsaparilla bark1 dandelion1 burdock1 and yellow dock1 in one gallon of water2 boil half an hour1 strain hot1 and add ten drops of oil of spruce and sassafras mixed4 ,when cold1 add half a pound of brown sugar and half a cup of yeast4 ,let it stand twelve hours in a jar covered tight1 and bottle4 ,use this freely as an iced drink4 ,this is a good recipe for the root beer which ,new ,yorkers like to taste during warm months4 ,people inclined to embonpoint feel the burden of mortality oppressive during the first heats of the calendar4 ,they will be glad to hear from a hill-country doctor1 whose praise is in many households1 that a strong decoction of sassafras drunk frequently will reduce the flesh as rapidly as any remedy known4 ,take it either iced or hot1 as fancied1 with sugar if preferred4 ,it is not advisable1 however1 to take this tea in certain states of health1 and the family physician should be consulted before taking it4 ,a strong infusion is made at the rate of an ounce of sassafras to a quart of water4 ,boil it half an hour very slowly1 and let it stand till cold1 heating again if desired1 and keeping it from the air4 ,a trouble scarcely to be named among refined persons is profuse perspiration1 which ruins clothing and comfort alike4 ,for this it is recommended to bathe the feet1 hands1 and parts of the body where the secretion is greatest with cold infusion of rosemary1 sage1 or thyme1 and afterward dust the stockings and under-garments with a mixture of two and a half drachms of camphor1 four ounces of orris-root1 and sixteen ounces of starch1 the whole reduced to impalpable powder4 ,tie it in a coarse muslin bag1 and shake it over the clothes4 ,this makes a very fine bathing-powder4 ,,chapter ,,ix4 ,hope for ,homely ,people4--,two ,vital ,charms4--,the ,way to ,live4--,sunrise and ,open ,air4--,bleached by the ,dawn4--,live at ,sunny ,windows4--,in ,balconies and ,parks4--,christiana's ,breakfast4--,brown ,steak and ,good-humor4--,true ,bread4--,device for ,stiff ,shoulders4--,corsets and ,girdles4--,the ,latter more ,needed4--,how to be ,pleased with ,one's ,self4 ,is there such a being as a hopelessly homely woman8 ,in the light of modern appliances1 study the faces and figures one meets on a journey from the sea-board to the interior1 and confess that there are few fatally ugly women4 ,on the railway ,i often amuse myself1 in default of better things1 by considering how hygiene1 cosmetics1 and good taste in dress would transform the common-looking women about one into charming and even striking personages4 ,in most of them1 all that is wanting is strength of expression and a clear complexion1 two things with which no woman can be wholly unattractive4 ,the one is the sign of mental1 the other of physical health4 ,no wonder nature makes them so winning4 ,to show what ,i mean1 let us mention some common faults1 and their antidotes4 ,nothing is more delightful than pulling our neighbors to pieces1 with a good motive for it4 ,christiana is over thirty--no reason in the least why she should not be as admired as a three days' rose1 for one of the most beautiful women in ,new ,york1 whom every one is infatuated with1 is over sixty4 ,yet nobody thinks of ,christiana's looks1 for the simple reason that she has given up thinking of them herself--believing her poor skin can not be improved1 nor the stiff1 high carriage of her shoulders be changed4 ,the depth of her eyes and her really good color are lost with these defects4 ,to judge how the remedies should be applied1 scrutinize her entire mode of living4 ,sunrise1 in ,january or ,june1 and she is not up6 ,this will never serve a candidate for beauty4 ,the first rays of the sun1 the purity of early air1 have as potent an effect on the complexion as the noon rays on the webs of linen in the bleaching-ground4 ,by all means1 if one must rob daylight for sleep1 take the hours from ten to three1 but see the fires in the east from out-of-doors1 even if your head touched the pillow only two hours before4 ,i don't believe in any special morality in getting up early1 but ,i do know its benefits on nerves and circulation of the blood4 ,there is a tonic in the dew-cool air1 a lingering of night's romance1 that stirs while it soothes the blood like a fine magnetic hand4 ,but getting up and staying in the house won't improve one's complexion4 ,how much of her rose-and-lily face the ,english peasant woman owes to her walk to the reaping-field at daybreak is well known4 ,after the first soft days of ,february and ,march there is nothing to hinder ,christiana from reading her prayer-book or morning paper on the porch in the sunlight1 if she choose to do this rather than rake the dead leaves from the grass1 sweep the steps1 or do something to stir her laggard blood4 ,if it is cold1 let her plant herself at the sunniest window1 sew1 run her machine1 lounge1 and eat there1 till she is no more afraid of sunshine than of any other blood relation4 ,our women want to imitate ,french sense1 and sit in the balconies and parks to do their work4 ,when they lose the detestable vice of self-consciousness that saps ,american well-being in all ways1 they will be able to live at their casements1 sewing1 singing1 reading1 as thoughtless and unnoticed as the white doves soaring above them where the sunshine is widest4 ,it is matter of custom merely4 ,but ,christiana's breakfast is ready by this time1 and we will see what she eats4 ,coffee3 well1 housekeepers buy the ready-ground coffee now1 and it is mixed trash1 wanting the heartiness of a good pure cup1 but no great harm at worst4 ,meat3 do you call that bit the width of two fingers1 crisped1 greased at one end1 raw and bleeding at the other1 fit sustenance for a woman who is to grow1 work1 walk1 dance1 and sing to-day8 ,she is made to live neither on leather nor raw meat4 ,cook a slice of thick beef-steak as quickly as possible till the color is changed all the way through without drying any of the juice4 ,the albumen of the blood must be coagulated before meat is fit for human stomachs1 and proper cooking means something more than mere warming through1 and a great deal less than crisping4 ,now let at least a quarter of a pound of this browned and fragrant sacrifice be cut for this young woman--better if she eat half a pound--to be converted into energetic work and ,christian good-humor in the course of the day4 ,one1 two1 three1 four slices of fried potato withered in fat6 ,and this is what some people call nourishment6 ,put on her plate two baked potatoes of unimpeachable quality--poor potatoes are poison--and let each be the size of her small fist4 ,where are the tomatoes1 the celery1 the artichokes1 salads1 and sauces8 ,she has tomatoes1 three bits in a tiny saucerette1 as if it held some ,east ,indian condiment4 ,there ought to be a saucer piled with them1 or some savory vegetable delicately cooked2 for breakfast ought to be next to the heartiest meal of the day4 ,it is far the best way to take coffee and bread on rising1 and eat the meal later when one has worked into an appetite for it4 ,those who find it impossible to alter their habits enough for this usually have duties which ought to call them up long enough before to be quite hungry by seven or eight o'clock1 the usual hours in this country for breakfast4 ,take away that thin slip of toast2 it makes one turn invalid to see it4 ,what do you call this gray1 broad-celled1 pallid stuff8 ,bread--good yeast bread8 ,if there is any thing intolerable1 it is what the makers of it commonly call good home-made bread4 ,it is mealy1 or bitter1 or gray and coarse-grained1 sad-looking1 with white crust1 as if the owners were too poor to afford fire to bake it thoroughly4 ,give me poor bread1 and ,i can eat it in a spirit of resignation2 but this domestic hypocrisy of good bread libels the wheat that made it1 and arraigns the taste of those who eat it4 ,were it ever so good1 there is something better yet--the crisp1 unbolted cake that lingers with nutty richness on the palate1 once tasting of which weans one from the impoverished gentility of white bread forever4 ,it is not urged on the score of being wholesome4 ,the phrase has been so much abused that the cry of 8healthful food0 invariably suggests something which doesn't taste good4 ,but the strength and richness and coloring of wheat-cake recommend it to any breakfast fancier4 ,there is no use aiming at fine-grained complexions without the use of coarse bread at every meal4 ,a slice of ,graham bread at breakfast will not counteract the evil tendencies of incorrect diet the rest of the day4 ,when you get your coarse bread1 two or three slices will not be too much at a meal4 ,such ought to be the breakfast of a young lady who wishes to have roundness of contour1 unfailing spirits1 and self-command1 with ready strength for walking1 working1 or study4 ,brain-work takes food as much as bodily labor4 ,between ,mrs4 ,o',flaherty in the laundry and the faithful lady editor of a newspaper1 it is probable that the former has the easiest time of it1 and uses less strength4 ,the women worth any thing are built and sustained by hearty feeding4 ,it is so that singers and dancers eat1 and lecturers and authors--,grisi and ,jenny ,lind1 ,mrs4 ,kemble and ,ristori1 ,mrs4 ,edwards1 the novelist1 and with her nearly every writer of note at this day4 ,they are well-nourished women1 whose appetites would embarrass the candy-loving sylphs whose usefulness amounts to nothing more than that of cheap porcelain4 ,women who exercise little1 of course eat little2 in the end they can do nothing1 because they are not sufficiently fed4 ,there is no grossness in eating largely if one work well enough to consume the strength afforded4 ,the best engines are best fed4 ,the grossness lies in eating and being idle4 ,a woman who limits her exertions to a walk around the squares daily may confine herself to a slice of toast and a strip of meat4 ,she will grow thin and watery-looking1 nervous and 8high-strung10 to pay for it4 ,to know what charm there is in womanhood1 go among the girls brought up in villages along the coast4 ,the well-poised shoulders that have a will of their own1 the round arms and necks1 the profusion of hair1 the strength and nerve combined in their movements1 give one the idea of walking statuary4 ,the poor drooping figures1 the stiff shoulders we complain of1 come from one cause--lack of nutrition4 ,their muscles are not strong enough to hold them erect1 and their nerves are not fed enough to stimulate the weak muscles to activity4 ,how many times must it be said over8 ,want of sunshine and nourishing food gives the coarse1 uninteresting look to most ,american women4 ,if ,christiana would invoke mechanical aid to bring down her high shoulders and put flexibility into her chest muscles1 after thirty years of abuse1 it is easily done4 ,walking with a pail of water in each hand is rather dull work unless there is a call for domestic help4 ,a homely but very effectual way of educating the muscles is to wear weights fastened to the shoulders4 ,a shawl-strap answers every purpose1 buckled on the shoulders with the handle between them on the back1 and fastening a flat-iron of five or six pounds' weight to the straps which hang under the arms4 ,an extra buckle may be sewed half-way down each strap1 to fasten the iron on the end by a second loop4 ,the weights may be worn while reading or writing for hours1 and will be found rather agreeable to balance the stooping propensity by throwing the stress on fresh muscles4 ,with or without it1 nine tenths of women from eighteen years old upward will need another simple support to relieve the muscles of the trunk below the waist4 ,it matters little what causes this feebleness1 whether too hard work1 the weight of skirts1 or degeneration of the muscular fibre from want of exercise and lack of fresh air4 ,its relief is imperative to preserve bloom and life of any kind worth calling life4 ,if any girl or woman can not dance1 run up stairs1 take long walks1 or stand about the house-work1 no matter how slight the fatigue1 support must be provided4 ,women wear corsets1 and say they can not exist without them1 when the demand for aid of the relaxed muscles of the hips and back1 though far more imperative1 is neglected4 ,the means are very simple3 a bandage of linen toweling1 soft and cool1 buckled1 tied1 or pinned1 as tight as will be comfortable1 and so arranged as to relieve every muscle that feels fatigue4 ,this is worth all the manufactured appliances in the market1 and its prompt use averts a hundred distressing consequences4 ,at the first approach of debility these girdles should be worn1 as they have been from ancient times among ,greek and ,jewish women4 ,it is not sure that their office of prevention is not more essential than that of cure4 ,tight corsets are an abomination1 for they interfere with flexibility1 and so with that constant exercise of the trunk muscles which alone can keep them in tone--keep them from degeneration and atrophy4 ,as to the muscles of the back and abdomen affected by the girdle1 a degree of support just sufficient to encourage them to their work1 and prevent their giving it up in fatigue and despair1 will exercise and strengthen them4 ,a bandage tighter than is needed for this will do harm1 not only by keeping the muscles idle1 and so weakening them1 but by compressing the abdominal viscera1 and thus producing numerous evils4 ,there is a game children play called 8wring the towel10 in which two clasp hands and whirl their arms over their heads without losing hold1 that every woman ought to practice to keep her muscles flexible4 ,hardly any exercise could be devised which would give play to so many muscles at once4 ,a woman ought to be as lithe from head to heel as a willow wand1 not for the sake of beauty only1 but for the varied duties and functions she must perform4 ,it would be an artistic feat to take ,christiana through a course of baths1 diet1 sun-sittings1 and open-air walks1 to show her to herself4 ,the oleander glow on firm cheeks1 the eye of light1 the tread of ,diana1 the buoyancy of body that fosters buoyancy of mind and spirits1 would please her with herself4 ,how dexterously ,nature inserts the reward of beauty before the self-denials needed to gain health6 ,a thoroughly healthy woman never is unbeautiful4 ,she is full of life1 and vivacity shines in her face and manner1 while her magnetism attracts every creature who comes within its influence4 ,,chapter ,x4 ,the ,bonniest ,kate in ,christendom4--,a ,word to ,mothers and ,aunts4--,different ,vanities4--,the ,sorrows of ,ugly ,women4--,recipes of an ,ancient ,beauty4--,sand ,wash4--,color for the ,nails4--,embrocation for the ,hands4--,soap to ,bleach the ,arms4--,freckle ,lotions4--,artistic ,enthusiasm at the ,toilet4 ,was the last chapter too much of a sermon on ,christiana's breakfast8 ,you think so1 ,kate1 who are longing to learn some art that may make you the bonniest ,kate in ,christendom4 ,you say your hands are rough and unsightly1 your hair grows where you do not want it1 and is none too thick where it ought to be4 ,your eyebrows are bushy--a most unfeminine trait1 that makes you look fierce as a lamb with mustaches4 ,you don't seem lovely to yourself1 and this consciousness makes you stiff and shy in your manner4 ,somebody is to blame for this state of things4 ,either your mother1 or your aunt1 or the lady principal of the school where you studied1 ought to have taken you in hand before you were fourteen1 and showed you the remedies for these defects that were to affect your spirits and comfort in after-life4 ,a girl should be taught to take care of her skin and hair just as she is to hold her dress out of the dust1 and not to crumple her sash when she sits down4 ,one thing will not make her vain more than another4 ,there are many vanities to be found in women's character4 ,one is vain of knowing three languages1 one of her ,sunday-school devotion1 another of her pattern temper1 and one of her pretty face4 ,of all these errors1 the last is most endurable4 ,every attraction filched from a girl by neglect or design is so much stolen from her dowry that never can be replaced4 ,victor ,hugo says that he who would know suffering should learn the sorrows of women4 ,let him say of ugly women1 and he will touch the depth of bitterness4 ,what tears the plain ones shed on silent pillows1 shrinking even from the pale1 beautiful moonshine that contrasts so fatally with their homeliness4 ,they would give years of life to win one of beauty4 ,this regret is natural1 irresistible1 and not to be forbidden4 ,better let the grief have its way till the busy period of life takes a woman's thoughts off herself1 and she forgets to care whether she is beautiful or not4 ,dam up the sluices of any sorrow1 and it deepens and grows wider4 ,is this treating a peculiarly feminine regret over-tenderly8 ,this is written in remembrance of a girl who thought herself so homely that she absolutely prayed that she might die and go to be perfect in heaven4 ,more than one girl makes such a wish this night before small mirrors in cottage or mansion chambers1 with no eye but her own to scan her hopeless features4 ,why doesn't some one open a school of fine arts1 literally des beaux-arts1 and make a greater success than ,worth1 by improving wearers instead of costumes8 ,till that time comes1 let us make the best of present resources1 and consider these recipes1 unearthed from an ancient book-shelf belonging to a maiden lady who was once1 if tradition may be credited1 a beauty of no mean order4 ,there is one thing to console us1 ,kate3 you and ,i will never have to cry for our lost beauty4 ,your hands are to be pitied1 for soft1 sensitive fingers are what a woman can least afford to lose4 ,they are needed to nurse sick folks1 and do quick sewing1 and handle children with4 ,so we are glad to learn something of this kind4 ,to soften the hands1 fill a wash-basin half full of fine white sand and soap-suds as hot as can be borne4 ,wash the hands in this five minutes at a time1 brushing and rubbing them in the sand4 ,the best is flint sand1 or the white powdered quartz sold for filters4 ,it may be used repeatedly by pouring the water away after each washing1 and adding fresh to keep it from blowing about4 ,rinse in warm lather of fine soap1 and after drying rub them in dry bran or corn meal4 ,dust them1 and finish with rubbing cold cream well into the skin4 ,this effectually removes the roughness caused by house-work1 and should be used every day1 first removing ink or vegetable stains with acid4 ,always rub the spot with cold cream or oil after using acid on the fingers4 ,the cream supplies the place of the natural oil of the skin1 which the acid removes with the stain4 ,to give a fine color to the nails1 the hands and fingers must be well lathered and washed with scented soap2 then the nails must be rubbed with equal parts of cinnabar and emery1 followed by oil of bitter almonds4 ,to take white specks from the nails1 melt equal parts of pitch and turpentine in a small cup2 add to it vinegar and powdered sulphur4 ,rub this on the nails1 and the specks will soon disappear4 ,pitch and myrrh melted together may be used with the same results4 ,an embrocation for whitening and softening the hands and arms1 which dates far back1 possibly to ,king ,james's times1 is made from myrrh1 one ounce2 honey1 four ounces2 yellow wax1 two ounces2 rose-water1 six ounces4 ,mix the whole in one well-blended mass for use1 melting the wax1 rose-water1 and honey together in a dish over boiling water1 and adding the myrrh while hot4 ,rub this thickly over the skin before going to bed4 ,it is good for chapped surfaces1 and would make an excellent mask for the face4 ,to improve the skin of the hands and arms1 the following old ,english recipe is given1 the principle of which is now revived in different cosmetic combinations4 ,take two ounces of fine hard soap--old ,windsor or almond soap--and dissolve it in two ounces of lemon juice4 ,add one ounce of the oil of bitter almonds1 and as much oil of tartar4 ,mix the whole1 and stir well till it is like soap1 and use it to wash the hands4 ,this contains the most powerful agents which can safely be applied to the skin1 and it should not be used on scratches or chapped hands4 ,for the latter a delicate ointment is made from three ounces of oil of sweet almonds1 an ounce of spermaceti1 and half an ounce of rice flour4 ,melt these over a slow fire1 keep stirring till cold1 and add a few drops of rose-oil4 ,this makes a good color for the lips by mixing a little alkanet powder with it1 and may be used to tinge the finger-tips4 ,it is at least harmless4 ,oil of almonds1 spermaceti1 white wax1 and white sugar-candy1 in equal parts1 melted together1 form a good white salve for the lips and cheeks in cold weather4 ,a fine cold cream1 much pleasanter to use than the mixtures of lard and tallow commonly sold under that name1 is thus made3 ,melt together two ounces of oil of almonds and one drachm each of white wax and spermaceti2 while warm add two ounces of rose-water1 and orange-flower water half an ounce4 ,nothing better than this will be found in the range of toilet salves4 ,a wash 8for removing tan1 freckles1 blotches1 and pimples10 as the high-sounding preface assures us1 is made from two gallons of strong soap-suds1 to which are added one pint of alcohol and a quarter of a pound of rosemary4 ,apply with a linen rag4 ,this is better when kept in a close jar overnight4 ,freckle lotion1 for the cure of freckles1 tan1 or sunburned face and hands--something which ,i would prefer to the rosemary wash before given1 is thus made3 ,take half a pound of clear ox gall1 half a drachm each of camphor and burned alum1 one drachm of borax1 two ounces of rock-salt1 and the same of rock-candy4 ,this should be mixed and shaken well several times a day for three weeks1 until the gall becomes transparent2 then strain it very carefully through filtering-paper1 which may be had of the druggists4 ,apply to the face during the day1 and wash it off at night4 ,now1 ,kate1 do you see your way clear to the use and benefit of these mixtures8 ,all these articles are to be found at any large druggist's1 or1 if not1 he will tell you where to find them4 ,the rosemary and honey may be found in that still fragrant store-room of your aunt's1 in the country1 unless she has taken to writing very poor serial articles1 and let the herb garden and the bees run out4 ,to save trouble1 take the recipes and have them made up at once by the druggist1 who understands such things2 but it is pleasant to dabble in washes and lotions one's self1 like the ,vicar of ,wakefield's young ladies4 ,then have you patience to persevere in their use8 ,for making one's self beautiful is a work of time and perseverance as much as being an artist1 or a student1 or a ,christian4 ,i wish ,i were with you1 and could keep you up to your preparations1 brush your eyebrows1 trim your eyelashes1 and do the dozen different offices of sympathy and womanly kindness4 ,i should feel that ,i was the artist putting the touches on something more valuable than any statue ever moulded4 ,can you feel so yourself8 ,for if you can once get hold of that artistic impulse1 you have the secret of all these toilet interferences4 ,,chapter ,,xi4 ,a ,dark ,potion4--,olive-oil and ,tar for the ,face4--,olive-tar for ,inhalation4--,carbolic ,lotion for ,pimples4--,cure for ,musquito ,bites4--,pale ,blondes4--,a ,french ,marquise4--,deepening ,colors by ,sunlight4--,seductive ,cosmetics4--,nose-machine4--,finger ,thimbles4 ,neither distilled waters perfumed like ,may1 nor embrocation smoother than velvet1 are this time to be offered you4 ,the compound in its ugliness is more like a witch's potion1 and the odor is generally liked by those only who are used to it4 ,but its merits are equal to its ugliness--nay1 so firmly am ,i persuaded of its effectiveness that before sundown ,i doubt not its virtues will be in active test within this household4 ,sea winds will roughen the face1 and miscellaneous food deteriorate the softest skins4 ,there are wrinkles1 too1 showing their first faint daring on the brow before the glass--wrinkles which had no business there for ten years to come1 at any rate4 8,what hand shall soothe0 their trace away8 ,it is a hunter's prescription that comes in use4 ,you will hear of it along the ,saranac1 or up in the ,franconia region1 where the pines and spruces yield fresh resins for its making4 ,it is popular there for its efficacy in keeping the black-flies and musquitoes away2 yet even hunters bear witness to its excellence in leaving the skin fair and innocent4 ,thus runs the formula1 simple enough1 in all conscience1 yet how few will have the boldness to try it3 ,mix one spoonful of the best tar in a pint of pure olive or almond-oil1 by heating the two together in a tin cup set in boiling water4 ,stir till completely mixed and smooth1 putting in more oil if the compound is too thick to run easily4 ,rub this on the face when going to bed1 and lay patches of soft old cloth on the cheeks and forehead to keep the tar from rubbing off4 ,the bed-linen must be protected by old sheets folded and thrown over the pillows4 ,the odor1 when mixed with oil1 is not strong enough to be unpleasant--some people fancy its suggestion of aromatic pine breath--and the black1 unpleasant mask washes off easily with warm water and soap4 ,the skin comes out1 after several applications1 soft1 moist1 and tinted like a baby's4 ,certainly this wood ointment is preferable to the household remedy for coarse skins of wetting in buttermilk4 ,further1 it effaces incipient wrinkles by softening and refining the skin4 ,the ,french have long used turpentine to efface the marks of age1 but the olive-tar is pleasanter4 ,a pint of best olive-oil costs about forty cents at the grocer's2 for the tar apply to the druggist1 who keeps it on hand for inhaling4 ,a spoonful of the mixture put in the water vase of a stove gives a faint pine odor to the air of a room1 which is very soothing to weak lungs4 ,physicians often recommend it4 ,what is to be done with the malignant little red pimples that crop out annoyingly at the close of warm weather8 ,the cause is very plain4 ,when cool days check the perspiration1 the system must send out matter by some other outlet before it can adjust itself to the new state of things4 ,nothing is better for the irritable face than bathing with a dilution of carbolic acid--one teaspoonful of the common acid to a pint of rose-water4 ,the acid1 as usually sold in solution1 is about one half the strength of really pure acid1 which is very hard to find4 ,the recipe given above was furnished by a regular physician1 and was used on a baby1 to soothe eruptions caused by heat1 with the happiest results4 ,care must be taken not to let the wash get into the eyes1 as it certainly will smart1 though it may not be strong enough to do further harm4 ,no more purifying1 healing lotion is known to medical skill1 and its work is speedy4 ,poor baby was not beautiful with his face of unaccustomed spots and blotches1 when the laving with the fluid began at night1 but next morning they were hardly visible4 ,i commend this again to mothers as a specific against those irritations with which children suffer4 ,for soothing musquito bites alone it is worth all the camphor1 soda washes1 and hartshorn that ever were tried4 ,there is a word of comfort to-day for those most hopeless cases of unloveliness1 tow-colored blondes4 ,light hair of the faintest shade1 without a tinge of gold or auburn1 is now fancied abroad4 ,chignons of pale hair1 dressed in abundant frizzes1 command nearly as high a price as those pure blondes dores which have been worth so many times their weight in gold4 ,ladies of fashion in ,france dye their hair1 or rather bleach it1 to this colorless state2 and the effect is very piquant with dark eyes and complexion4 ,at the ftes in ,paris recently a marchioness of daring taste attracted general admiration by her pale tresses1 relieved by profuse black velvet trimmings4 ,indeed1 the only wear for trs blondes is black1 even if it is only black alpaca1 with transparent ruches at the neck and wrists4 ,let such not fear to expose themselves to the fiercest sun to gain a shade or two of color in the face4 ,if the fine-grained skin which accompanies such hair take on a pale1 even brown1 so much the better for artistic effect4 ,dark eyes will give brilliancy to the dullest face2 and dark they must be1 if the harmless crayon can make them so by skillful shading about the light lashes4 ,if ever art is a boon1 it is when called in to change the sickly whiteness of too blonde brows and lashes4 ,we can hardly expect that girls will carry their zeal for coloring so far as to feed for months on the meal from sorghum seed1 which has the powerful effect of deepening the tint of the entire flesh--a phenomenon as true as strange2 but we must hope that they will live and work in the rays of that great beautifier1 the sun1 which brings out and perfects all undeveloped tones in ,nature's painting4 ,pale eyes darken in exercise out-of-doors1 and pasty skins grow prismatic like mother-of-pearl1 in that wonderful way which fascinated ,monsieur ,taine when he beheld the miraculous brows and shoulders of ,english ladies4 ,the idea did not seem to suggest itself to the critical ,frenchman1 but it will to every woman1 that these charms were not wholly due to ,nature4 ,it is bewildering to read the announcements of toilet preparations under seductive names--rosaline1 blanc de perle1 rose-leaf powder1 magnolia1 velvetine1 eau romaine d'or1 and the rest4 ,think of the potent chemistry which waits outside our windows untried6 ,among the list of 8eyebrow pencils10 8nail polishes10 and lip salves1 a foreign paper brings to notice one invention which might be of use--a nose-machine1 which1 we are told1 so directs the soft cartilage that an ill-formed nose is quickly shaped to perfection4 ,no surgeon will deny that this is possible to a great degree4 ,that it would be a boon nobody can doubt1 seeing how many unfortunates walk the world whose noses have every appearance of having been sat upon1 or made acquainted with the nether millstone4 ,long thimbles reaching to the second joint for shaping fingers are a new device1 though something of the kind was used by very particular beauties fifty years ago4 ,the only thing women would not do to increase their comeliness is to put themselves on the rack1 unless indeed it were to live healthily4 ,,chapter ,,xii4 ,removal of ,superfluous ,hair4--,effects of ,high ,living4--,work of ,typhoid ,fever4--,roman ,tweezers4--,lola ,montez's ,recipes4--,paste of ,wood-ashes4--,bleaching ,arms with ,chloride4--,cautions about ,depilatories4--,public ,baths4--,improving ,complexions by the ,sulphur ,vapor-bath4--,how ,arabian ,women ,perfume ,themselves4--,profuse ,hair1 ,sign of ,nature's ,bounty4 ,a correspondent wishes to know what will remove superfluous hair1 adding that she is annoyed with such a growth of it on her face that she is the remark of her friends4 ,these unfortunate cases are the result of morbid constitution1 freaks of nature which are to be combated as one would eradicate leprosy or scrofula4 ,the extreme growth of hair where it should not be comes from gross living1 or is inherited by young persons from those whose blood was made of too rich materials4 ,living for two or three generations on overlarded meats1 plenty of pastry1 salt meats1 ham1 and fish1 with good old pickles from brine--in short1 what would be called high living among middle-class people--is pretty sure to leave its marks on lip and brow4 ,sometimes typhoid fever steps in and arrests the degeneration by a painful and searching process1 which1 as it were1 burns out the vile particles1 and1 if the patient's strength endure1 leaves her almost with a new body4 ,the red1 scaly skin peels off1 and leaves a soft1 fresh cuticle1 pink as a child's2 the dry hair comes out1 and a fine1 often curling suit succeeds it1 while moles and feminine mustaches disappear and leave no sign4 ,but this fortunate end is not secured to order1 and there are preferable ways of renewing the habit of body4 ,for immediate removal of the afflicting shadows which mar a feminine face there are many methods4 ,the ,romans used tweezers1 regularly as we do nail-brushes1 to pull out stray hairs2 and ,lola ,montez speaks of seeing victims of a modern day sitting for hours before the mirror painfully pulling out the hairs on their faces4 ,but this often makes the matter worse2 for if the hairs are broken off1 and not pulled up by the roots they are sure to grow coarser than before4 ,often one hair pulled out sends two or three to grow in its place4 ,a paste of fine wood-ashes left to dry on the skin is said to eat off hairs1 and is probably as safe as any remedy4 ,the authority on feminine matters quoted above recommends very highly a plaster which pulls the hairs out by the roots4 ,spread equal parts of galbanum and pitch plaster on a piece of thin leather1 and apply to the place desired2 let it remain three minutes1 and pull off suddenly1 when it brings the hairs with it1 and they are said not to grow again4 ,this will probably bring the tears into the eyes of any one who tries it2 but the courage of damsels desiring a smooth face is not to be damped by such trifles as an instant's pain4 ,if the plaster were left on more than three minutes1 it would be apt to bring the skin with it in coming off4 ,it is better to use daily a paste of ashes or caustic soda1 left on as long as it can be borne1 washing with vinegar to take out the alkali1 and rubbing on sweet-oil to soften the skin1 which is left very hard by these applications4 ,applied day after day1 it would not fail to kill the hair in a month1 when it would dry and rub off4 ,this may be used on the arms1 which might be whitened and cleared of hair together by bathing them in a hot solution of chloride of lime as strong as that used for bleaching cotton1 say two table-spoonfuls to a quart of water4 ,bathe the arms daily in this1 as hot as can be borne1 for not over two minutes1 washing afterward in vinegar and water1 and rubbing with almond or olive-oil4 ,this should be done in a warm room before an open window to avoid breathing the fumes of the chloride1 which are both unpleasant and noxious4 ,strong soft-soap left to dry on the arms would in time eat away any hair4 ,but the trouble is that these strong agents eat away the skin almost as soon as they do the hair1 and nice care must be used to prevent dangerous results4 ,if the blood should be in bad order1 though not suspected by any one1 least of all by the person interested1 caustic of any sort might eat a hole in the flesh that would fester1 and be a long time healing4 ,i saw a frightful sore that a lady made on her neck1 trying to remove a mole with lunar caustic1 and should advise every one to be careful how they run such painful risks4 ,it is not wise to endure pain heroically1 thinking to have the matter over and done with at once4 ,better try the applications many times1 leaving them to do their work gradually and surely4 ,to lay the foundation of true beauty1 the system should be purified within as well as without4 ,nothing is of so much value in this respect as the vapor-bath4 ,in all our large cities public establishments exist for taking these baths1 and their virtues are well appreciated by those who once try them4 ,at the largest bathing-houses in ,new ,york ladies attend regularly for the sole object of improving their complexion4 ,perhaps the most successful form administered is the sulphur vapor-bath1 which works wonders for neuralgia4 ,it purifies and searches the blood1 and ,i have seen a patient who had lost one of the loveliest complexions in the world1 as she thought forever1 come out of her bath day after day visibly whitened at each trial4 ,for ladies past youth nothing restores such softness and child-like freshness to the cheek or such suppleness to the figure4 ,of course these baths can only be taken at places for the purpose1 where chemical means are not wanting4 ,i only mention them to urge all ladies who have the chance of trying them not to fail of doing so1 both for pleasure and benefit4 ,the vapor-bath1 pure and simple1 has stood for some time among household remedies for various ills1 and is given by seating the undressed patient on a straw or flag chair over a saucer in which is a little lighted alcohol1 and wrapping chair1 patient1 and all in large blankets4 ,after a few minutes the perspiration streams as if he were in a caldron of steam1 and may be kept up any length of time4 ,fifteen minutes are enough4 ,a tepid bath should follow1 if one is not chilled by it1 and after that either a good sleep or exercise enough to keep one in a glow4 ,impurities are discharged from the system in this way which else might occasion fever4 ,the hair1 skin1 and nails are insensibly renewed and refined by it4 ,there is not the least danger of taking cold if the precautions are taken of rubbing dry1 dressing quickly and warmly1 and keeping the blood at its proper heat by work or fire--in short1 by doing just those things which ought to be done should one never go near a vapor-bath4 ,arabian women have a similar method of perfuming their bodies by sitting over coals on which are cast handfuls of myrrh and spices4 ,the heat opens the pores1 which receive the fumes1 till the skin is impregnated with the odor1 and the women come out smelling like a censer of incense4 ,twice a week is often enough for the vapor-bath2 as for the fumigation1 some creature doubtless will be wild enough to try the experiment once1 which will be sufficient for a lifetime4 ,if she do1 she will be very glad to know that ammonia bathing will destroy most traces of her adventurous caprice4 ,a profusion of hair1 however1 is a sign of nature's liberality1 and this growth is found in connection with a strength and generosity of constitution that is capable of the best things when duly refined4 ,south ,americans1 with their supple bodies overflowing with vitality1 have splendid tresses1 and so have the ,spaniards and ,italians4 ,such people are quick and lasting in the dance1 own deep tuneful voices1 move with vigor and ease1 and have a luxuriance of blood and spirits1 which is too precious to restrain or lose4 ,fasting1 denial of pleasant food and plenty of it1 till one is worn to an anchorite1 may do for religious penance1 but does not reach physical ends so well as moderate and satisfying indulgence4 ,if any poor girl think1 from reading this paper1 that she ought to starve and waste herself by sweating because she has a pair of mustaches and a coat of hair on her arms1 she is vastly mistaken4 ,if she want to know what she may eat1 let her study ,professor ,blot's cookery-book4 ,whatever is there she may eat1 as it is there1 assured that all the delightful ,french seasoning will not do her blood half the injury of a season's course of pies made after good ,yankee fashion--the crust half lard and half old butter1 the filling strong with spice or drenched with essence1 as the case may be4 ,,chapter ,,xiii4 ,madame ,celnart's ,works of the ,toilet4--,literature of ,beauty4--,cares of the ,toilet4--,arts of ,coiffure and ,lacing4--,how to ,hold a ,needle ,gracefully4--,iris ,powder for ,tresses4--,arts of ,italian ,women4--,depilatory used in ,harems4--,spirit of ,pyrtre4--,herbs used by ,greek ,women4--,mexican ,pomade4--,dusky ,perfumed ,marbles4--,lost ,perfumes4--,sultanas' ,lotion4--,brilliant ,paste for ,neck and ,arms4--,baking ,enamel4 ,if ever a woman deserved a seat in the ,french ,academy for the value of her literary labors to her kind1 it was ,madame ,celnart4 ,the works of this lively author on manners1 dress1 cosmetics1 and kindred topics no less interesting to her sex1 are found in eight small octavos in their native ,french4 ,the lady was an industrious and brilliant writer on themes of the toilet1 the household1 and deportment1 on which ,mrs4 ,farrar1 author of ,the ,young ,lady's ,friend1 of our mothers' time1 and ,mrs4 ,beeton1 the editor of ,the ,englishwoman's ,magazine1 in our day1 have succeeded her with much adornment but hardly equal scope4 ,madame ,celnart talks--one can hardly imagine her holding a pen--like a ,parisian1 with empressement1 with drollery1 precision1 and inimitable sprightliness4 ,her lectures sound like those of a gentle old beauty1 secure in the charm of her finished manner against the loss of her earlier fascinations1 telling the secrets of her age to a younger generation1 with half a smile at their readiness to seize these arts1 and seriously pointing out the most graceful or the most modest way of doing things1 with the concern of one who is conscious that grace and prudence do not come to all her sex by nature4 ,imagine the arch gentleness with which she opens her work on the toilet in such easy1 sparkling guise as this3 8,je viens de feuilleter les arts de plaire1 les livres de beaut1 et autres vangiles des courtisane10 which may be freely translated1 8,i come to speak of the arts of pleasing1 the literature of beauty1 and other evangels of coquetry40 ,she has a well-bred curl of disdain for 8une allure bourgeoise mesquine20 but with the reverence of a true ,frenchwoman1 whose creed is her mirror1 she pronounces her work 8consacr la toilette1 et la conversation de la beaut40 ,these duties she divides with serious precision into the 8soins de la toilette10 which include cosmetic arts1 and 8l'art de se coiffer1 lacer1 et chausser40 ,it was indeed an art1 in the time of hundred-boned corsets without clasps1 to lace one's self1 and in the days of classic sandals to put on one's shoes4 ,she is as exact in all her details as a school-mistress1 though one fancies a covert smile on her wise face as she rallies the young demoiselles who dreaded the bath--because it was so cold8 ,oh no2 but because their modesty could not endure the baring of their person even to themselves4 ,such1 she gravely advises1 may save their 8pudeur0 by bathing in a peignoir4 ,one inevitably recalls ,lola ,montez's dedication of her famous ,book of ,beauty1 8,to all men and women who are not afraid of themselves10 on encountering these ,french demoiselles with their conventual susceptibility4 ,the graceful preceptress goes on with directions for sitting1 for holding one's needle1 for dancing1 and holding one's petticoats out of the mud4 ,nobody will allow that these hints are superfluous who notices the varied awkwardness which women fall into who are habitually thoughtless on these points4 ,some of these nice customs may have been carried to our shores1 possibly with ,rochambeau's ,french ladies at ,newport or ,salem4 ,i remember hearing one of the fine ,newburyport ladies1 who answer to the description of gentlewomen still1 maintain earnestly that it was most graceful to 8sew with a long point0--that is1 to push the needle nearly its whole length through at each stitch1 instead of pulling it out1 so to speak1 by the nose4 ,and she was right1 as you can verify by the next sewing you take up4 ,in the time of ,madame ,celnart1 fine ladies used to powder their hair with the dust of ,florentine iris1 which gave their love-breathing tresses the violet odor of spring4 ,a pleasant idea2 but their iris1 our orris-root1 must have been a trifle fresher than comes to this country4 ,it makes us sure that the beauties of ,titian's and ,guido's times were real women1 to know that they steeped their tresses in bleaching liquids and dyes1 and spread their locks in the sun for hours to gain the coveted golden tinge2 and the hair of the ,bella ,donna herself might have caught part of its enchantment from the sprinkling of violet powder that lent its waves a soul4 ,those immortal beauties would have canonized ,lubin had he been alive with his pomades and perfumes in their time4 ,celnart was a courageous advocate of cosmetics1 or else she was wise enough to put the worst first1 for one of her earliest recipes is this depilatory1 which is not at all quoted by way of recommendation4 ,it is the ,oriental ,rusma1 a depilatory used in harems3 ,two ounces of quicklime1 half an ounce of orpiment and red arsenic2 boil in one pint of alkaline lye1 and try with a feather to see when it is strong enough4 ,touch the parts to be rid of hair1 and wash with cold water4 ,when we say that orpiment and realgar are deadly poisons1 and add ,madame ,celnart's remark that the mixture is of 8une grande causticit10 often attacking the tissue of the skin1 our readers will quite agree with her that it is only to be used with 8la plus grande circonspection10 or1 still better1 not at all4 ,the ,crme ,parisienne depilatoire is harmless1 and is given for what it is worth3 ,one eighth of an ounce of rye starch1 and the same of sulphate of baryta 7or heavy-spar71 the juice of purslane1 acacia1 and milk-thistle1 mixed with oil4 ,the high-sounding ,paste of ,venus1 devised by a ,parisian cosmetic artist1 who shared the mythologic fancy which prevailed years ago1 was spread over the skin to soften and perfume it4 ,esther herself might have used it1 for its conjugation of spices would delight an ,oriental4 ,it was made of fat1 butter1 honey1 and aromatics--the more the better2 but as none of our belles wish to try the anointing bodily1 ,i spare them the list1 and give instead the ,esprit de pyrtre4 ,the pyrethrum1 or ,spanish pellitory1 is an herb highly valued by cosmetic artists1 and appears in several recipes of the ,french3 ,powdered cinnamon1 one drachm2 coriander1 nineteen scruples2 vanilla1 the same2 clove1 eighteen grains2 cochineal1 mace1 and saffron1 the same2 simple spirit of pyrethrum1 one litre 7about seven eighths of a quart74 ,let these ingredients digest for fifteen days1 and add orange-flower water1 half an ounce2 oil of anise1 eighteen drops2 citron1 ditto2 oils of lavender and thyme1 each nine drops2 ambergris1 three grains4 ,mix the ambergris with the pyrtre1 and put the two liquids together4 ,filter after two days4 ,use as a toilet water4 ,no wonder ,french cosmetics are so highly valued1 when their composition embraces such a variety of pleasing ingredients4 ,thyme1 anise1 and saffron seem homely herbs for a woman's use1 but they assisted at every toilet among the ,greek women of old2 and ,rhodora wove the crocus 7meadow-saffron7 with the rose1 and fennel among her jasmines1 without a thought such as these things give us of sick-teas and home-made dyes4 ,why should herbs of such excellent renown lose the poetry that belongs to them8 ,mingled in variety with ambergris and orange flowers1 they give body to a perfume rich enough to have satisfied ,cleopatra4 ,if this recipe is complicated1 what will be said to the next1 compounded by ,south ,american women1 and fashionable in ,paris not so very long after the time of ,josephine1 who may have patronized1 or1 indeed1 introduced this souvenir of creole coquetry4 ,madame ,celnart says of it1 8,only the ,tartuffes of coquetry could blame the ,mexican pomade10 whose proportions indicate that the formula came straight from the perfumer's hands1 and is therefore correct4 ,any one who wishes to try it can reduce the measure to suit herself3 ,extract of cocoa1 sixty-four ounces2 oil of noisette1 thirty-two ounces2 oil of ben1 thirty-two ounces2 oil of vanilla1 two ounces2 white balsam of ,peru1 one drachm2 benzoin flowers1 half a drachm2 civet1 ditto2 neroli1 one drachm2 essence of rose1 one drachm2 oil of clove flowers1 one ounce2 citron and bergamot waters1 each half a pint4 ,steep the vanilla in the cocoa butter eight days in a hot place2 dissolve the balsam in half a glass of alcohol1 with the benzoin and civet1 and add the spirit of clove4 ,mix the essence of rose and neroli in the oils of ben and noisette1 and beat the whole forcibly together in a large marble or china bowl4 ,creole women spread this paste on their smooth skins1 which the oil of cocoa softens and moistens1 while the delightful changing odor is absorbed1 till their forms are like living1 dusky1 but perfumed marbles4 ,these recipes are given not so much for imitation1 or to contribute to the lore of perfumers this side the water1 as curiosities of national arts and feminine vanity4 ,where in our country would we find the ingredients of the celebrated ,eau de ,stahl1 known to the ,parisian chemists forty years ago8 ,its compound was as follows3 ,alcohol1 nine litres2 rose-water1 three litres2 the root of ,spanish pellitory1 five ounces2 gallingale root1 three ounces2 tormentil1 three ounces2 balsam of ,peru1 three ounces2 cinnamon1 five drachms2 rue1 one ounce2 ratania1 eight ounces4 ,powder the whole1 and put in alcohol2 shake well1 and leave to macerate six days4 ,pour off1 and let it stand twenty-four hours to clear1 after which add essential oil of mint1 one and a half drachms2 powdered cochineal1 four drachms4 ,leave to infuse anew three days2 filter through filtering-paper1 and decant4 ,use for a tooth-wash1 for washing the face1 or for baths4 ,peruvian powder was a standard dentifrice of the same date4 ,it is made of white sugar1 half a drachm2 cream of tartar1 one drachm2 magnesia1 ditto2 cinnamon1 six grains2 mace1 two grains2 sulphate of quinine1 three grains2 carmine1 five grains4 ,powder and mix carefully1 adding four drops of the oils of rose and mint4 ,the following cosmetic1 called the ,serkis du ,srail1 is said to be a favorite lotion used by the ,sultanas1 for whom it is imported from ,achaia--though this sounds more like one of those pleasant fictions which perfumers delight to invent concerning their oils and pomades than any thing we are obliged to believe4 ,this may be said in favor of the assertion--it is such a mixture of starch and oils as no one but an odalisque could endure to use4 ,it is made of sweet-almond paste1 ten livres2 rye and potato starch1 each six livres2 oil of jasmine1 eight ounces2 the same of oil of orange flowers and of roses2 black balsam of ,peru1 six ounces2 essence of rose and of cinnamon1 each sixty grains4 ,mix the powders and essences separately in earthen vessels1 then add the powder to the liquid little by little1 bruise well together1 and strain through muslin4 ,an elegant preparation for whitening the face and neck is made of terebinth of ,mecca1 three grains2 oil of sweet almonds1 four ounces2 spermaceti1 two drachms2 flour of zinc1 one drachm2 white wax1 two drachms2 rose-water1 six drachms4 ,mix in a water-bath1 and melt together4 ,the harmless mineral white is fixed in the pomade1 or what we would call cold cream1 and is applied with the greatest ease and effect4 ,it must be to some preparation of this subtle sort that the lustrous whiteness of certain much-admired fashionable complexions is due4 ,it is a cheap enamel1 without the supposed necessity of baking1 which1 by the way1 is such a blunder that ,i wonder people of sense persist in speaking of it as if it could be a fact4 ,,chapter ,,xiv4 ,the ,last of the ,rose4--,weighing in the ,balances4--,to ,love and to be ,loved4--,the ,enigma of ,love4--,its ,power over the ,lot of ,men4--,inspiration in the ,looks4--,the ,land of ,spring4--,the ,duchess of ,devonshire4--,women at and after ,thirty4--,training of ,emotion4--,warming the ,voice4--,crow's-feet at the ,opera4--,bohemian ,arsenic ,waters4--,recipe from ,madame ,vestris4--,milk of ,roses4--,sweet-oils4--,opera-dancers' ,prescription for ,restoring ,suppleness4 ,for any woman1 maid or matron1 past youth1 who hears the leaves begin to drop1 and sees the roses curl in the warm summer of her life1 this chapter is written4 ,it is well that with the decay of bloom and outward charm there should be a lessening of feeling1 an amiable indifference to the homage that youth covets eagerly4 ,the woman of--who dares fill in the age8--the woman who finds the faint lines on her cheek and the pallor creeping to her lip should have learned and tasted many things in her life--so many that she can appraise the value of all1 and resign them contentedly1 with a little sigh1 not for what they were1 but for what they were not4 ,she should have loved1 and1 if possible1 have won love in return1 though that is less matter4 ,the wisdom1 the blessedness1 come through loving1 not through being loved4 ,it is well if she can accept the complement of her affection1 and find out of what mutable elements it is made3 its fervor and forgetfulness2 its devotion1 often eclipsed and as often surprising with its fresh strength--weak where we trust it most1 and standing proof where we surely expect it to fail4 ,such is the love of man4 ,it is a riddle1 whose learning has cost gray hairs on tender temples1 the roses from many cheeks4 ,it is the tradition that love makes or mars a woman's life2 but ,i have yet to learn that it does not exert an equal though silent power over the lot of men4 ,be that as it may1 a woman in love is far more beautiful than one out of it4 ,and this is true if the love last to threescore4 ,let women1 if they would remain charming1 by all means keep their hold on love1 their faith in romance4 ,the power of feeling gives vitality and interest to faces long after their first flush has passed4 ,speaking as matter of fact1 this is the case1 for emotion has a livelier power than the sun has over the blood1 and the miracle of love in making a plain girl pretty is explained by the stimulating effects of happiness on the circulation4 ,if you would preserve inspiration in your looks1 beware how you repress emotion4 ,cultivate1 not the signs of it1 but emotion itself1 for the two things are very distinct4 ,suffer yourself to be touched and swayed by noble music and passion4 ,to do this1 place yourself often under the best influences within reach4 ,there may be pathos enough in the rendering of a poor little girl's song at the piano to stir tenderly chords of feeling that were growing dull for want of use4 ,the rose of morning1 the perfume of spring1 have rapt many a middle-aged woman away to divine regions of fancy1 from which she came back with their dewy freshness and smell lingering about her4 ,youth has its daylong reveries while its hands are at work4 ,we older ones need to reserve with jealous care our hours of solitude1 in which the springs fill up4 ,the faces of old beauties have no charm beyond that of feeling4 ,look at the women who were reputed the belles of our large cities twenty years ago4 ,they may be well preserved2 but in most cases they are mere masks in discolored wax4 ,the pearly teeth1 the small ,grecian features1 the soft1 fine hair and regular eyes are left1 but the brow has learned neither to weep nor smile1 the lips are composed1 and might be mute for all the expression that replaces their lost crimson4 ,one could adore the wasted beauty of the ,duchess of ,devonshire1 8worn by the agitations of a brilliant and romantic life10 for the sake of the fire and kindness that lit even its death-pillow2 and the ,josephine of ,malmaison1 with eyes always eloquent of tears1 wins more devotion than the empress at ,saint ,cloud1 confessed the loveliest woman of ,france4 ,let no woman fall into the mistake of preserving her beauty by refraining from emotion1 for all she can keep by such costly pains will be the coffin-like shapeliness of flowers preserved in sand4 ,laugh1 weep1 rejoice1 or suffer as life provides4 ,only feel something natural1 worthy and vivid enough not to leave your face a blank4 ,there is a time between twenty-five and thirty-five when the struggle of life1 mean or lofty as it may be1 oppresses women sorely4 ,fret and care write crossing script on their faces1 which grow yellow and pinched till they despair of comeliness4 ,this is when they are learning to live4 ,ten years or so make the lesson easy1 and it is one of the thankfulest things in the world to see such faces going back to the blossom and sunny sweetness of their spring4 ,many a woman is handsomer at thirty-nine than she was at thirty4 ,nature responds wonderfully to the reliefs afforded her4 ,the only counsel is to let ,nature go free4 ,do not think1 because trial has bent spirit and frame together1 that they should stay so a moment after the heavy hand is off4 ,if you feel like singing1 sing1 not humming low1 but joyful and clear as the larks1 that would carol just as gayly at ninety1 if larks lived so long1 as the first summer they left their nests4 ,the worst of ,english and ,american systems of manners is the constant repression they demand4 ,it impairs even the physical powers1 so that in training a singer the first thing great artists do is to teach her to feel1 in order1 as they say1 to 8warm up0 the voice and give it fullness4 ,women need to cultivate pleasure and amusement far more after they are thirty than before it1 ,i mean romantic pleasures1 such as come from exquisite colors and sceneries in nature or their homes1 from poetry and the loveliest music4 ,they are twice as impressible then as they are in youth1 if they know how to get hold of the right notes4 ,they leave themselves to fall out of tune1 and forget to respond4 ,yet1 as a woman does not love to carry her thinned tresses and crow's-feet into the glare of the opera1 or to talk poetry when rheumatism twinges her middle finger1 the craft of the toilet comes in most gratefully4 ,the freshness of the skin is prolonged by a simple secret1 the tepid bath in which bran is stirred1 followed by long friction1 till the flesh fairly shines4 ,this keeps the blood at the surface1 and has its effect in warding off wrinkles4 ,bohemian countesses over thirty may go to arsenic springs1 as they were wont to do1 for the benefit of their complexions2 but the home bath-room is more efficacious than even the minute doses of quicksilver with which the ladies of ,george the ,first's court used to poison themselves--a primitive way of getting at the virtues of blue-pill4 ,the celebrated ,madame ,vestris slept with her face covered by a paste which gave firmness to a loose skin and prevented wrinkles4 ,it was a recipe which the ,spanish ladies are fond of using1 which requires the whites of four eggs boiled in rose-water1 to which is added half an ounce of alum1 and as much oil of sweet almonds1 the whole beaten to a paste4 ,a favorite cosmetic of the time of ,charles ,,ii4 was the milk of roses1 said to give a fair and youthful appearance to faded cheeks4 ,it was made by boiling gum-benzoin in the spirits of wine till it formed a rich tincture1 fifteen drops of which in a glass of water made a fragrant milk1 in which the face and arms were bathed1 leaving the lotion to dry on4 ,it obliterates wrinkles as far as any thing can besides enamel4 ,to restore suppleness to the joints1 the ,oriental practice may be revived of anointing the body with oil4 ,the best sweet-oil or oil of almonds is used for this purpose1 slightly perfumed with attar of roses or oil of violets4 ,the joints of the knees1 shoulders1 and fingers are to be oiled daily1 and the ointment well rubbed into the skin1 till it leaves no gloss4 ,the muscles of the back feel a sensible relief from this treatment1 especially when strained with work or with carrying children4 ,the anointing should follow the bath1 when the two are taken together4 ,it is a pity this custom has ever fallen into disuse among our people1 who need it quite as much as the sensuous ,orientals4 ,opera-dancers in ,europe use an ointment which is thus given by ,lola ,montez3 ,the fat of deer or stag1 eight ounces2 olive-oil1 six ounces2 virgin wax1 three ounces2 white brandy1 half a pint2 musk1 one grain2 rose-water1 four ounces4 ,the fat1 oil1 and wax are melted together1 and the rose-water stirred into the brandy1 after which all are beaten together4 ,it is used to give suppleness to the limbs in dancing1 and relieves the stiffness ensuing on violent exercise4 ,ambergris would suit modern taste better than musk in preparing this4 ,,chapter ,,xv4 ,the ,fearful ,malady of which no one ,dies4--,esprit ,odontalgique4--,gray ,pastilles4--,important to ,smokers4--,mouth ,perfumes4--,care of the ,breath4--,directions for ,bathing4--,perfumes for the ,bath4--,bazin's ,pte4--,quality of ,soaps4--,bathing and ,anointing the ,feet4--,nicety of ,stockings4--,delicate ,shoe ,linings4--,feet of ,pauline ,bonaparte4 ,among the recipes1 more or less valuable1 which come to light in old collections1 one for the toothache1 by ,boerhaave1 is too useful to be lost4 ,even beauties have the toothache sometimes1 especially after going home from the ,academy of ,music on a snowy night with a tulle scarf folded about their heads1 or after sitting with their backs to the window in a half-warmed parlor during a ceremonious call4 ,use before beauty1 mademoiselles2 and with no more excuse is proffered the ,esprit ,odontalgique1 which should be kept in the dressing-room1 ready for the slightest signs of that most terrible malady1 from which nobody dies4 ,alcohol of thirty-three degrees1 one ounce2 camphor1 four grains2 opium in powder1 twenty grains2 oil of cloves1 eighty drops4 ,the efficacy of this lotion will be seen at a glance1 and no other authority for its use is needed than that of the learned and excellent physician who gave it its name4 ,very properly follow the gray pastilles for purifying the breath4 ,they do so1 not by disguising it1 but by reaching the root of the difficulty1 arresting decay in the teeth1 and neutralizing acidity of the stomach4 ,the mixture is very simple3 ,chlorate of lime1 seven drachms2 vanilla sugar1 three drachms2 gum-arabic1 five drachms--to be mixed with warm water to a stiff paste1 rolled1 and cut into lozenges4 ,madame ,celnart archly advises all good wives to let their spouses know that these lozenges entirely remove the traces of tobacco in the breath4 ,as a good wife will hardly interfere with a favorite habit of her husband who is fond of smoking1 the least any gentleman can do is to render his presence acceptable after the indulgence4 ,another pastille1 preferable on some accounts to the above1 but owing its value to the same principle1 is made from chlorate of sodium1 twenty-four grains2 powdered sugar1 one ounce2 gum-adraganth1 twenty grains2 perfumer's essential oil1 two drachms4 ,powder the chlorate in a glass mortar2 put the powder in a cup1 and pour in a little water2 let it settle1 and pour off4 ,repeat the process three times with fresh water1 filtering what is poured off each time1 and mix the gum and sugar with it1 adding the perfume last4 ,a gargle for the mouth which combines all the virtues of ,eau ,angelique1 and every other wash of heavenly name1 is made of the chlorate of lime in powder1 three drachms2 distilled water1 two ounces4 ,reduce the chlorate with a glass pestle in a glass mortar1 add a third of the water1 stir1 and pour off1 as directed before1 till all is added4 ,to this add two ounces of alcohol1 in which is dissolved four drops of the volatile oil of roses and four drops of perfumer's essential oil4 ,half a teaspoonful of the solution in a wine-glass of water is to be used at a time as a tooth-wash and gargle for the mouth and gums4 ,with the best intentions as to physical neatness1 many persons are unable to make the impression of their company wholly agreeable4 ,they may remember with advantage that rinsing the mouth with this fluid six times a day is not too much pains in order to make themselves acceptable to others4 ,there is no surer passport to esteem than an innocent1 taintless person1 which wins upon one before moral virtues have time to make their way4 ,if you think this truth is repeated too often1 study the impression made by the respectable people you meet for the next month4 ,the result will satisfy you that those who are as neat as white cats are as one to fifteen of the careless1 easily satisfied sort4 ,slight disorders of the system make themselves known by the sickly odor of the perspiration1 quite sensible to others1 though the person most interested is the last to become conscious of it4 ,the least care1 even in cold weather1 for those who would make their physical as sure as their moral purity1 is to bathe with hot water and soap twice a week from head to foot4 ,carbolic toilet soap is the best for common use1 as it heals and removes all roughness and 8breakings out0 not of the gravest sort4 ,ladies whose rough complexions were a continual mortification have found them entirely cleared by the use of this soap4 ,the slight unpleasant odor of the acid present soon disappears after washing1 and it may be overcome by using a few spoonfuls of perfume in the water4 ,an excellent preparation for bathing is ,bacheville's ,eau des ,odalisques4 ,the ,french recommend it highly for frictions1 lotions1 and baths4 ,it is made in quantity for free use after this recipe3 ,two pints of alcohol1 one of rose-water1 half a drachm of ,mexican cochineal1 four ounces of soluble cream of tartar1 five drachms of liquid balsam of ,peru1 five drachms of dry balsam of the same2 vanilla1 one drachm2 pellitory root1 one and a half ounces2 storax1 one and a half ounces2 galanga1 one ounce2 root of galanga1 one and a half ounces2 dried orange peel1 two drachms2 cinnamon1 essence of mint1 root of ,bohemian angelica1 and dill seed1 each one drachm4 ,infuse eight days1 and filter4 ,for lotions1 add one spoonful of this to six of water4 ,it is also useful for freshening the mouth1 adding twenty-four drops of it to four teaspoonfuls of tepid water4 ,for diseased gums1 double the dose1 and gargle with it several times a day4 ,the ,pte ,axrasive of ,bazin1 the celebrated perfumer1 has the distinction of being highly commended by the ,french ,royal ,academy of ,medicine4 ,it is better for toilet use than soaps which contain so much alkali4 ,take powder of bitter almonds1 eight ounces2 oil of the same1 twelve ounces2 savon vert of the perfumers1 eight ounces2 spermaceti1 four ounces2 soap powder1 four ounces2 cinnabar1 two drachms2 essence of rose1 one drachm4 ,melt the soap and spermaceti with the oil in a water-bath1 add the powder1 and mix the whole in a marble mortar4 ,it forms a kind of paste1 which softens and whitens the skin better than any soap known4 ,make toilet waters and pastes of this kind in quantity1 as they improve with age4 ,it costs about one fourth as much to prepare them as to buy the same quantity at the perfumer's1 and one has the advantage of a finer article4 ,do not use cheap soap for the toilet4 ,such is almost always made of rancid or half-putrid fat1 combined with strong alkalies1 which dry and crack the skin1 sometimes causing dangerous sores by the poisonous matter they introduce from vile grease4 ,never allow such soap to touch the flesh of an infant4 ,to do so is little better than absolute cruelty4 ,white soaps are the safest1 as they are only made of purified fat4 ,the feet should be washed every night and morning as regularly as the hands4 ,it preserves their strength and elasticity1 and helps to keep their shape4 ,what person of refinement can take any pleasure in looking at her own feet presenting the common appearance of distortion by shoes too tight in the wrong place1 and the dry1 hardened skin of partial neglect8 ,one's foot is as proper an object of pride and complacency as a shapely hand4 ,but where in a thousand would a sculptor find one that was a pleasure to contemplate1 like that of the ,princess ,pauline ,bonaparte1 whose lovely foot was modeled in marble for the delight of all the world who have seen it8 ,as nice care should be given to feet as to hands1 beginning with a bath of fifteen minutes in hot soap and water1 followed by scraping with an ivory knife1 and rubbing with a ball of sand-stone1 which will be found most useful for a dozen toilet purposes4 ,the nails may be left to take care of themselves1 with constant bathing and well-fitting shoes1 unless they have begun to grow into the flesh1 when all to be done is to scrape a groove lengthwise in each corner of the nail4 ,the whole foot should be anointed with purified olive-oil or oil of sweet almonds after such a bath4 ,a pair of stockings should be drawn on at night to preserve the bedclothes from grease-spots4 ,the oil will soak off the old skin1 and wear away the scaly tissue about the nails1 while it renders the soles as soft and pliant as those of a young child4 ,a daily change of stockings is as desirable for those who walk out as a fresh handkerchief every morning--but how many people consider it necessary8 ,it may sound audacious to suggest that when laundry-work is an item1 a lady would show her ingrain refinement by washing her own ,balbriggan hose as truly as by stinting herself to two pair a week on account of washer-women's bills4 ,as for the vulgarity of wearing colored stockings 8because they show dirt less10 it is to be repudiated1 save in the case of children1 who are quite capable of going through with a box of white stockings in a day1 and looking none the cleaner for it at the end4 ,our bootmakers are in fault about the lining of shoes1 which ought to be changeable when soiled4 ,soiled1 indeed6 ,when are common shoes ever clean within8 ,our manufacturers are the opposite of the ,french1 whose workmen wear fresh linen aprons1 and wash their hands every hour1 for fear of soiling the white kid linings at which they sew4 ,the time will come when we will find it as shocking to our ideas to wear out a pair of boots without putting in new lining as we think the habits of ,george the ,first's time1 when maids of honor went without washing their faces for a week1 and people wore out their linen without the aid of a laundress4 ,cleanliness means health in every case1 and a plea must be offered for those neglected members1 that only find favor in our eyes by making themselves as diminutive as possible4 ,,chapter ,,xvi4 8,the ,leaves are ,full of ,joy40--,nobility of the ,body4--,its ,possibilities4--,brain and ,heart ,dependent on it4--,physical ,culture ,imperative in ,america4--,our ,contempt of ,health4--,easier to be ,magnificent than ,clean4--,distilled ,water for ,every ,use4--,substitute for ,stills4--,vapor and ,sulphur ,baths4--,bran ,baths4--,oatmeal for the ,hands4--,frequency of ,baths4--,remedies for ,hepatic ,spots4 ,how lusty and delicate the young leaves grow on their stems in their nook of sunshine6 ,what could be lovelier in its way than the three geranium leaves starting from the mould in the window-box where the sun strikes across the corner of the sill8 ,they are so firmly poised1 yet glancing2 each full of green juice that the sun turns to jewel-light1 with spots of darker tint where the feathered edges overlie--a subtle piece of color wrought by sun and soil for no eye to see but by chance1 yet ecstatic in its delight1 as if meant for the centre trefoil of an altar window4 ,so the sun does all his work4 ,so leaves grow by myriads in the garden and the forest4 ,so the forces of nature bring forth every thing perfect if left free to their impulses4 ,there is something like the leaves in our frames1 that would grow springy and strong1 soft-colored and brilliant1 upright and joyous1 if it were suffered to4 ,it appeals for sunshine and gayety1 for abundant food and ease1 for copious watering1 tendance1 and freedom4 ,give it these1 and the body1 under present conditions1 is as far beyond its common dullness and weakness as it is below the saints in light2 for heavenly bodies can not be very different from ours unless they cease to be bodies4 ,the mortal frame is noble enough as it is4 ,no harp ever vibrates like it with emotion and pleasure2 no star shines so fair or so wise as the face of man4 ,god made it1 and ,god loves it1 which is the reason it wins so closely upon us1 and is so dear4 ,there is no wisdom in despising the body or its sensations4 ,it is crudity to uphold that the mental part of us should absorb all the rest4 ,brain and heart are dependent on the body1 and it was meant1 not for the slave--as men seem never weary of preaching--but for the interpreter and companion of both4 ,honor is due the body1 and thanks for its pleasures1 which should be enjoyed with intelligence and leisure4 ,they are no more low or debasing than mental pursuits may be when pursued to the exclusion of all others4 ,the sensualist is no more intolerable in the order of nature than the pedant or pretender in literature1 and does little more harm in the long-run4 ,the former ruins himself2 the latter1 by a false philosophy1 may lead thousands astray4 ,give the body its due--its thirds with the mind and the soul4 ,neither is the better for having more than its share4 ,the need of physical culture grows more and more urgent in this country4 ,here most unlike races mix sullen and mercurial blood together in the most variable of climates4 ,they interchange habits as well1 though the only one peculiar to ,americans as such is a tolerable contempt for the conditions of health--a contempt inherited through half a dozen generations4 ,the climate is not in fault1 but the people are4 ,it is much easier in this country to be magnificent than to be clean4 ,at any hotel there is enough of useless upholstery1 as a matter of course1 but a bath is an extra1 often not to be had on any terms4 ,this is the case even in the metropolis1 where at least a better idea of civilization ought to prevail4 ,for the rest1 there is not much to be said for the intelligent culture of any family who have carpets before their bath-room is fitted up4 ,when refinement has reached a step beyond faucets and water-pipes1 each house will have its distilling apparatus to provide the purest water for drinking and bathing4 ,nobody will any more think of drinking undistilled water than they do now of eating brown sugar when they can get white4 ,her ,majesty the ,queen of ,england uses nothing but distilled water for her toilet1 and the luxury and softness of such a bath are so great that no one used to its indulgence will consent to forego it4 ,a small still costs five dollars1 and would provide all the water that is needed for family use4 ,it should be kept in action all the time1 and fill a close reservoir for bathing1 while that for cooking and drinking should be freshly distilled each day4 ,a simple substitute for a still is a tea-kettle1 with a close cover and a gutta-percha or lead pipe fastened to the spout1 leading through a pail of cold water into a jar for holding the distilled water4 ,the steam from the boiling water goes off through the tube1 condenses under the cold water1 and runs off pure into the receiver4 ,where houses are heated by steam1 ,i am told1 they may be amply provided with distilled water by adding a pipe to one of the tubular heaters1 that will carry steam into a cooler1 from which pure water may run day and night4 ,besides the distilled-water baths in a complete household1 there should be facilities for the vapor-bath at any time4 ,this is invaluable in colds1 rheumatism1 congestions1 and neuralgia4 ,the readiest substitute is the rush-bottomed chair and lighted saucer of alcohol described in a former chapter4 ,a sulphur bath requires a shallow pan of coals with a tin water-pan above it1 and an elevated seat over the whole4 ,sulphur is thrown on the coals1 which mingles with the steam1 and enters the system by the pores1 which are opened by the vapor4 ,the patient1 brazier1 and chair must be enveloped with a water-proof covering in the closest manner1 leaving only the head exposed1 so that no sulphurous vapor can possibly be breathed1 as that would be suffocation at once4 ,in regular bathing establishments the patient sits in a wooden box1 having a cover and a water-proof collar which fits tight about the neck1 leaving the head out4 ,this box is filled with steam by a pipe1 and the vapor impregnated with sulphur from a spoonful burning in one corner of the box1 or from a generator outside with connecting tube4 ,it is difficult1 if not impossible1 to administer a sulphur bath without proper and special appliances4 ,the bran bath1 recommended before1 is taken with a peck of common bran1 such as is used to stuff pincushions1 stirred into a tub of warm water4 ,the rubbing of the scaly particles of the bran cleanses the skin1 while the gluten in it softens and strengthens the tissues4 ,oatmeal is even better1 as it contains a small amount of oil that is good for the skin4 ,for susceptible persons1 the tepid bran bath is better than a cold shower-bath4 ,the friction of the loose bran calls the circulation to the surface4 ,in ,france the bran is tied in a bag for the bath1 but this gives only the benefit of the gluten1 not that of the irritation4 ,the frequency of the bath should be determined1 after it has been taken for a week or two1 by feeling4 ,take the refreshment as often as the system desires it4 ,the harm is done not so much by bathing often as by staying in the water long at a time4 ,a hot soap-suds bath once a week is beneficial to persons with moist and oily skins4 ,bay-rum and camphor may be used to advantage by such persons each time after washing the face4 ,the hot suds bath should be taken thrice a week by those who wish to remove moth patches4 ,one of the best ways to make the hands soft and white is to wear at night large mittens of cloth filled with wet bran or oatmeal1 and tied closely at the wrist4 ,a lady who had the finest1 softest hands in the county confessed that she had a great deal of house-work to do1 but kept them white by wearing bran mittens every night4 ,pastes and poultices for the face owe most of their efficacy to the moisture1 which dissolves the old coarse skin1 and the protection they afford from the air1 which allows the new skin to form tender and delicate4 ,oat meal paste is efficacious as any thing1 though less agreeable than the pastes made with white of egg1 alum1 and rose-water4 ,the alum astringes the flesh1 making it firm1 while the egg keeps it sufficiently soft1 and the rose-water perfumes the mixture4 ,what are called indiscriminately moth1 mask1 morphew1 and1 by physicians1 hepatic spots1 are the sign of deep-seated disease of the liver4 ,taraxacum1 the extract of dandelion root1 is the standing remedy for this1 and the usual prescription is a large pill four nights in a week1 sometimes for months4 ,to this may be added the free use of tomatoes1 figs1 mustard-seed1 and all seedy fruits and vegetables1 with light broiled meats1 and no bread but that of coarse flour4 ,pastry1 puddings of most sorts1 and fried food of all kinds must be dispensed with by persons having a tendency to this disease4 ,it may take six weeks1 or even months1 to make any visible impression on either the health or the moth patches1 but success will come at last4 ,one third of a teaspoonful of chlorate of soda in a wine-glass of water1 taken in three doses1 before meals1 will aid the recovery by neutralizing morbid matters in the stomach4 ,there is no sure cosmetic that will reach the moth patches4 ,such treatment as described1 such exercise as is tempting in itself1 and gay society1 will restore one to conditions of health in which the extinction of these blotches is certain4 ,,chapter ,,xvii4 ,the ,banting ,system4--,a ,quaint ,author4--,trials of ,corpulency4--,result of ,living on ,sixpence a ,day4--,indifference of ,doctors4--,a ,wise ,surgeon4--,relation of ,glucose to ,obesity4--,diet for ,stout ,people4--,no ,starch1 no ,sugar4--,losing ,flesh at the ,rate of a ,pound a ,week4--8,human ,beans40--,humors of ,banting's ,tract4--,his ,gratitude4--,honors to ,dr4 ,harvey4--,one ,day with ,dives1 the ,next with ,lazarus4--,bromide of ,ammonia4 ,request is often made for the details of ,mr4 ,banting's system of reducing flesh4 ,the popular idea of the writer1 whose modest pamphlet has linked his name with the system he observed1 is very like the caricature of the dry modern savant4 ,the severe scientist who keeps his child for years without fire or clothes to demonstrate the superiority of human beings to cold1 or who throws a new-born baby into a tub of water to prove that the race can swim by nature1 should not be mentioned on the same page with the kindly enthusiast of the letter on corpulency4 ,there is no evidence in its pages that the writer ever tried authorship before4 ,he was over sixty-six years old1 when1 in a burst of gratitude for his relief from the burden of too much flesh1 he took up his pen to tell his fellow-creatures of help for those who suffer a like infliction4 ,the quaintness of his pages reminds one of ,izaak ,walton1 from his opening sentences1 where he declares1 8,of all the parasites that affect humanity1 ,i do not know of1 nor can ,i imagine1 any more distressing than that of obesity0--an opinion with which all his fellow-sufferers will agree4 ,he is fond of terming his grievance a parasite1 and the name slips out with a frequency which is like the echo of objurgations hurled at his infirmity4 ,being called to account for it later1 he meekly declares that the word is used wholly in a figurative sense4 ,his state might have justified a stronger epithet4 ,no parents on either side1 to use his own phrase1 ever showed a tendency to corpulency1 but between thirty and forty he found the habit growing upon him4 ,his physician advised violent exercise1 and he took to rowing4 ,finding his flesh increase1 he consulted 8high orthodox authority 7never any inferior adviser71 tried sea air and bathing1 took gallons of physic and liquor potass1 always by advice1 rode horseback1 drank the waters of ,leamington1 ,cheltenham1 and ,harrowgate0--doses enough1 we should think1 to have disgusted him with life forever--8lived on sixpence a day1 and earned it1 at least by hard labor1 and used vapor-baths and shampooing10 without any help for his infirmity4 ,the rich gentleman found his position1 the good things of this life1 his houses1 horses1 and friends1 small enjoyment1 save as they lessened the increasing burden life heaped upon him4 ,he was obedient and intelligent in using every means of relief suggested1 but his doctors were of very small use to him4 ,as he pathetically says1 8,when a corpulent man eats1 drinks1 and sleeps well1 has no pain and no organic disease1 the judgment of able men seems paralyzed40 ,his state was pitiable1 and there are too many companions in distress who answer to the same picture4 ,he could not tie his shoe1 and often had to go down stairs slowly backward1 to save the jar of increased weight on his ankles and knee-joints4 ,low living was prescribed1 and he followed it so heartily that he brought his system into a low1 irritable state1 and broke out in boils and large carbuncles1 for which he had to be treated and 8toned up0 in a way that brought him into heavier condition than ever4 ,he speaks feelingly1 yet with simple dignity1 of the trials which stout people endure1 being crowded in cars and stages1 uncomfortable in warm theatres and lecture-rooms1 besides finding themselves the butt of ridicule1 or1 at least1 the object of remark4 ,the last caused him for many years to give up public pleasures4 ,many persons1 as they read1 will have cause to reproach themselves1 for those who are considerate of every other species of human infirmity fail to recognize the real suffering of those who carry a load of flesh4 ,a sensitive person encumbered with adipose feels keenly the glances1 if not the smiles1 which follow his entrance into a public vehicle4 ,it is a test of delicacy for others to appear unconscious of his infirmity4 ,when ,turkish baths came into fashion1 ,mr4 ,banting tried them1 with the result of six pounds' loss after taking fifty baths1 which was not encouraging1 though they have been of service in other like instances4 ,in ,august1 #ahfb1 his case stood thus3 ,he was nearly sixty-six years old1 five feet five inches high1 and weighed over two hundred pounds4 ,he went to no excess in eating or drinking1 his diet being chiefly bread1 beer1 milk1 vegetables1 and pastry4 ,flesh impeded his breathing1 his eye-sight failed1 and he lost his hearing1 yet most of the doctors he went to for relief considered his trouble of no account1 as one of the accompaniments of age1 like wrinkles and gray hairs4 ,the faculty are to blame for overlooking such a foe to human comfort4 ,mr4 ,william ,harvey1 ,surgeon of the ,royal ,dispensary for ,diseases of the ,ear1 was the first person wise and considerate enough to prescribe a remedy4 ,he reasoned from ,m4 ,bernard's accepted theory of the product of glucose as well as bile from the liver4 ,glucose is allied to starch and saccharine matter1 and is produced in the liver by ingestion of sugar and starch4 ,the substance is always present in excess both in diabetes and obesity1 and it struck this eminent surgeon that the same dry diet which drains the excess of glucose in the former disease might be of service in the latter4 ,abstinence from food containing starch and sugar reduces diabetes1 and accordingly he prescribed it for his patient4 ,he was to leave off all bread1 milk1 butter1 beer1 sugar1 and potatoes1 besides other root vegetables1 as these contain the largest amount of fat material4 ,yet the diet allowed was liberal4 ,breakfast was four or five ounces of beef1 mutton1 kidney1 broiled fish1 and any cold meat except veal and pork2 a large cup of tea without milk or sugar1 a little biscuit--i4 e41 crackers--or an ounce of dry toast4 ,dinner3 five or six ounces of any fish except salmon1 herring1 and eels1 which are too fat2 any vegetables but potatoes1 beets1 parsnips1 carrots1 or turnips1 green vegetables being especially good2 an ounce of dry toast2 the fruit of a pudding2 any poultry or game2 two or three glasses of good claret1 sherry1 or ,madeira1 but no champagne1 port1 or beer4 ,tea3 two or three ounces of fruit1 a rusk or two1 and a cup of tea without milk or sugar4 ,supper1 at nine3 three or four ounces of meat or fish1 and a glass of claret4 ,before going to bed1 if desired1 a nightcap of grog without sugar was allowed1 or a glass of claret or sherry4 ,this was comfortable compared to his former diet1 which was bread and milk for breakfast1 or a pint of tea1 with plenty of milk and sugar1 and buttered toast2 dinner of meat1 beer1 bread1 of which he ate a great deal1 and pastry1 of which he was fond1 with fruit tart and bread and meat for supper4 ,yet on the liberal diet his flesh went down at the rate of more than a pound a week for thirty-five weeks4 ,he explains his belief that certain food is as bad for elderly people as beans are for horses1 and thenceforth he calls the forbidden food 8human beans40 ,he suffers himself to make a little mirth over the enemy that held him in durance so long4 ,we can well believe he would 8scrupulously avoid those beans1 such as milk1 beer1 sugar1 and potatoes10 after he had groaned a score of years from 8that dreadful tormenting parasite on health and comfort40 ,he sensibly writes his opinion that 8corpulence must naturally press with undue violence upon the bodily viscera1 driving one part on another1 and stopping the free action of all40 ,he calls ,mr4 ,harvey's system 8the tram-road for obesity10 and says1 8,the great charm and comfort of this system is that its effects are palpable within one week of trial40 ,he protests that he found not the slightest inconvenience in the probational remedy1 which reduced his girth twelve inches and his weight thirty-eight pounds in thirty-five weeks4 ,he could go up and down stairs naturally1 and perform every necessary office for himself without the slightest trouble2 his sight was restored1 and his hearing unimpaired4 ,in token of his gratitude1 he gave the doctor1 besides his fees1 the sum of #ej1 to be distributed among the hospital patients4 ,to prove the reality of his dedication of his letter 8to the public simply and entirely from an earnest desire to benefit his fellow-creatures10 the editions were distributed gratuitously in hopes of reaching his fellow-sufferers from flesh4 ,he was eager that they should find the relief which to him was rapturous4 ,it must have reached some cases1 for more than #eh1jjj copies had been issued at the date of this edition4 ,the author was urged to sell his work1 even if the proceeds were given to the poor2 but with the sensitiveness of a man not used to appear in public1 he says1 8,on reflection1 ,i feared my motives might be mistaken40 ,in giving the credit of this system to ,dr4 ,harvey1 we are sure of obeying the wishes of the author1 who speaks of his benefactor with extreme gratitude1 and says1 8,he has since been told it is a remedy as old as the hills1 but the application is of recent date40 ,he thinks any one who suffers from obesity may 8prudently mount guard over the enemy1 if he is not a fool to himself40 ,he was so far delivered from his malady as to indulge in the forbidden articles of food2 but says1 8,i have to keep careful watch1 so that if ,i choose to spend a day or two with ,dives1 ,i must not forget to devote the next to ,lazarus40 ,no medicine was given with this diet save a volatile alkali draught in the morning during the first month4 ,this was probably the bromide of ammonia1 which is of great use in reducing an over-amount of flesh4 ,,chapter ,,xviii4 ,a ,letter4--,trials of a ,plain ,woman4--,the ,best ,husband in the ,world4--,burdock ,wash for the ,hair4--,for ,children's ,hair4--,oil of ,mace as a ,stimulant4--,to ,restore ,color to the ,hair4--,sperm-oil a ,powerful ,hair ,restorer4--,the ,cheapest ,hair-,dye4--,cure for ,chilblains4--,loose ,shoes the ,cause of ,corns4--,pyroligneous ,acid for ,corns4--,turpentine and ,carbolic ,acid for ,soft ,corns4 ,among inquiries not seldom repeated is an urgent demand for a prescription to keep the hair from coming out4 ,the following letter will be acceptable to many readers4 8,i was emphatically one of the #8ugly girls1' being of a very large figure1 and inheriting thin hair2 otherwise ,i suited myself well enough4 ,but oh6 the agonies ,i have suffered through my personal deficiencies4 ,now1 with a happy home of my own and the best husband in the world1 ,i can smile at the old distress4 ,yet it was no less real1 and ,i can pity the ugly girls as nobody but one who has #8been there' can4 8,my hair began coming out when ,i was just in my teens1 and has always been the trial of my life4 ,i have been up and down the whole scale of restoratives1 with all manner of recipes volunteered by sympathizing friends4 ,last fall1 after returning from a two months' stay near ,saratoga1 where ,i had undergone a severe course of treatment for sundry physical ills1 my hair came out frightfully1 till ,i was almost without any1 and nothing seemed to check it4 ,a relative1 an old lady1 told me to use burdock-root tea4 ,i tried it1 and it worked like a charm4 ,my hair has never grown as it does now1 and it has absolutely ceased coming out--something that has not been the case for fifteen years4 ,something of this may be due1 as far as growth is concerned1 to a receipt given me by a friend a month or so ago4 ,it is a family receipt1 and something of a family secret4 ,the ladies of the house1 who use it1 have magnificent hair1 which they attribute to this receipt4 ,it is a queer conglomerate1 as you see3 ,one pound of yellow-dock root1 boiled in five pints of water till reduced to one pint2 strain1 and add an ounce of pulverized borax1 half an ounce of coarse salt1 three ounces of sweet-oil1 a pint of ,new ,england rum1 and the juice of three large red onions1 perfumed at pleasure--7a quarter of an ounce of oil of lavender and ten grains of ambergris would be efficacious in overcoming the powerful scent of the ingredients74 8,my little girl has magnificent hair1 but it troubles me by coming out this winter4 ,as she is only five years old1 ,i have hesitated about putting any thing on4 ,i wish you would some time say if it is best to doctor a child's hair1 or let nature take its course4 ,i have learned that to shampoo the head with cold water every morning is an excellent thing1 as is an occasional thorough washing with soap-suds1 not rinsing the soap out completely4 ,i have sometimes checked the fall of hair by such means4 ,the burdock root was also used by steeping it in boiling water till a strong tea was made and used as a wash two or three times a day1 then at longer intervals40 ,in answer to the query in the excellent letter above1 it may be said that it is always well to cure where there is disease4 ,simple remedies aid nature4 ,a child's hair is too valuable to lose4 ,one teaspoonful of ammonia to a pint of warm water makes a wash that may be used on a child's head daily with safety4 ,it does not split the hair1 as soap will do if left to dry in4 ,one of the most powerful stimulants and restoratives for the hair is the oil of mace4 ,those who want something to bring hair in again are advised to try it in preference to cantharides1 which it is said to equal1 if not to surpass1 without the danger of the latter4 ,a strong tincture for the hair is made by adding half an ounce of the oil of mace to a pint of deodorized alcohol4 ,pour a spoonful or two into a saucer2 dip a small1 stiff brush into it1 and brush the hair smartly1 rubbing the tincture well into the roots4 ,on bald spots1 if hair will start at all1 it may be stimulated by friction with a piece of flannel till the skin looks red1 and rubbing the tincture into the scalp4 ,this process must be repeated three times a day for weeks4 ,when the hair begins to grow1 apply the tincture once a day till the growth is well established1 bathing the head in cold water every morning1 and briskly brushing it to bring the blood to the surface4 ,when the hair loses color1 it may be restored by bathing the head in a weak solution of ammonia1 an even teaspoonful of carbonate of ammonia to a quart of water1 washing the head with a crash mitten1 and brushing the hair thoroughly while wet4 ,bathing the head in a strong solution of rock-salt is said to restore gray hair in some cases4 ,pour boiling water on rock-salt in the proportion of two heaping table-spoonfuls to a quart of water1 and let it stand till cold before using4 ,the old specific of bear's grease for the hair is hardly found now1 and one can never be sure of getting the real article2 but an equally powerful application is discovered in pure sperm-oil1 of the very freshest1 finest quality4 ,this forms the basis of successful hair restoratives1 and will not fail of effect if used alone4 ,it is1 however1 procured in proper freshness only by special importation from the north coast of ,europe4 ,in the list of hair-dyes1 one agent has long been overlooked which is found in the humblest households4 ,it is too common and humble1 indeed1 to excite confidence at first2 but it is said that the water in which potatoes have been boiled with the skins on forms a speedy and harmless dye for the hair and eyebrows4 ,the parings of potatoes before cooking may be boiled by themselves1 and the water strained off for use4 ,to apply it1 the shoulders should be covered with cloths to protect the dress1 and a fine comb dipped in the water drawn through the hair1 wetting it at each stroke1 till the head is thoroughly soaked4 ,let the hair dry thoroughly before putting it up4 ,if the result is not satisfactory the first time1 repeat the wetting with a sponge1 taking care not to discolor the skin of the brow and neck4 ,exposing the hair to the sun out-of-doors will darken and set this dye4 ,no hesitation need be felt about trying this1 for potato-water is a safe article used in the household pharmacopia in a variety of ways4 ,it relieves chilblains if the feet are soaked in it while the water is hot1 and is said to ease rheumatic gout4 ,inquiries have been made after a cure for corns4 ,it is not always the case that they come from wearing tight shoes4 ,i have seen troublesome ones produced by wearing a loose cloth shoe that rubbed the sides of the foot4 ,it is best always to wear a snugly fitting shoe of light1 soft leather1 not so tight as to be painful1 nor loose enough to allow the foot to spread4 ,the muscles are grateful for a certain amount of compression1 which helps them to do their work4 ,when corns are troublesome1 make a shield of buckskin leather an inch or two across1 with a hole cut in the centre the size of the corn2 touch the exposed spot with pyroligneous acid1 which will eat it away in a few applications4 ,besides this1 a strong mixture of carbolic acid and glycerine is good--say one half as much acid as glycerine4 ,of course1 only a very small quantity will be needed1 and it must be kept out of the way1 for it is a burning poison4 ,in default of these1 turpentine may be used both for corns and bunions4 ,a weaker solution of carbolic acid will heal soft corns between the toes4 ,,chapter ,,xix4 ,a ,talk about ,complexions4--,delicate ,lotion4--,cause of ,rough ,faces4--,sun ,painting and ,bleaching4--,court ,ladies ,refusing to ,wash their ,faces4--,experiments with ,olive-tar4--,consumption and ,clear ,faces4--,rev4 ,w4 ,h4 ,h4 ,murray on ,olive-tar4--,porcelain ,women4--,drawing ,humors to the ,surface4--,what is to be ,done for the ,weak ,women8 ,a ,southern lady sends the following recipe for glycerine lotion1 which is refined and pleasant as well as useful4 ,the pain of sunburned and freckled skin1 so troublesome to many of our fair readers1 can be relieved1 and the shining morning face of youth restored1 by this application3 ,take one ounce of sweet almonds1 or of pistachio-nuts1 half a pint of elder or rose-water1 and one ounce of pure glycerine2 grate the nuts1 put the powder in a little bag of linen1 and squeeze it for several minutes in the rose-water2 then add glycerine and a little perfume4 ,it may be used by wetting the face with it two or three times a day4 ,this is a grateful application for a parched1 rough skin4 ,it should be allowed to dry thoroughly1 when1 if it feel sticky or pasty1 it may be washed off with warm water4 ,the reason why so many young women have rough faces is1 they wash their faces every day but neglect to cleanse their bodies4 ,the pores are clogged by secretions1 and morbid matters in the blood break out in the only free spot1 the face4 ,the ladies of ,king ,george's court were perfectly logical when they refused to wash their faces lest it should spoil their complexions4 ,they seldom washed either bodies or linen1 and it was dangerous to give their festering blood an outlet by clearing a place for it4 ,full-blooded girls whose complexions give them trouble should not eat fat meat save in the depth of winter1 nor drink milk4 ,they may take these in after-years1 if they grow thin and weak from hard work or the nursing of children4 ,their systems can turn the grapes and pears they ought to feed on1 the fish1 chicken1 and lean meat1 the nutty oatmeal and wheat cakes 7not mushes71 into flesh enough to round their elbows1 and strength enough to make their walk like the figure of a dance4 ,they should try daily bathing1 or rather scrubbing with soap and hot water1 followed by a cold dip1 a process taking a matter of ten minutes a day1 at most1 if they know the meaning of dispatch4 ,very likely they will need a few bottles of ,saratoga water or doses of salts to clear the blood1 adhering religiously to a ,graham diet the while1 or their last state after the medicine will be worse than the first4 ,after taking the sulphur vapor-baths they must go out-of-doors1 and finish bleaching themselves in the sun4 ,by living in it five hours a day1 they may gain the lovely painted marble of the ,english girl's face1 who reaps all day in the harvest field4 ,cosmetics sometimes play tricks with fair skins which are quite mysterious to the unlucky subject4 ,this is the case with the tar and olive ointment named a few chapters ago4 ,those who find that its application brings out a fearful crop of pimples1 and turns the skin yellow1 should feel that the ointment has been a friend to them1 in detecting a state of the blood that is any thing but safe4 ,people of sedentary habits1 who pay little attention to their health1 are not aware how vitiated their blood may be for want of sunshine1 good food1 and exercise4 ,its torpid current leaves no mark of disease on the surface2 humors concentrate in the vital organs1 and finally appear in the form of chronic disorders4 ,consumption leaves the skin clear and brilliant1 because the morbid matters which usually pass off through the skin are eating away the life in ulcers beneath4 ,the tar brings them to the surface1 and one application sometimes leaves a face in a sorry state4 ,three ladies of different families tried the recipe at the same time1 with frightful results1 for the reason that they were all in the state when a dose of blood purifier would have had the same effect4 ,one lady kept on using the lotion1 and her face became smooth after trying it three or four times4 ,when people perspire freely1 such unhappy effects are seldom noticed4 ,apropos of this1 come a few lines from ,w4 ,h4 ,h4 ,murray1 the author of the ,hand-book of the ,adirondacks4 ,a lady who was puzzled by the effect of the cosmetic wrote to him about it1 knowing he was familiar with its use in the mountains1 and received this merry answer3 8,i have had a hearty laugh over your perplexity4 ,all ,i know is1 the mixture was common sailors' tar and sweet-oil1 with the consistency of sirup4 ,our party1 ladies and gentlemen both1 have used it freely for years in the woods1 and the ladies have always declared that it made their skin as soft as satin4 ,certain it is1 it never caused any rash in their case40 ,delicate1 fair-skinned women are the very ones on whom this cosmetic will have the effect of drawing humors to the surface4 ,heavens6 how many of this sort there are in the world--pale1 shadowy as porcelain1 fragile of bone and tender of skin1 about as useful as wish-bones of a ,christmas chicken6 ,they have intense souls2 it is a pity they have not enough body to hold them4 ,is there not wit enough in the world to conjure flesh to the bones and strength to the muscles of this great army of weak women8 ,,chapter ,,xx4 ,sulphur ,baths4--,bleaching ,old ,faces4--,experiments in ,bathing4--,cautions4--,need of ,public ,baths4--,their ,proper ,prices4--,method of ,giving ,sulphur ,vapor-baths4--,hot ,baths for ,hot ,weather4--,russian ,baths at ,home4--,improvements ,needed in ,public ,baths4--,what they ,should be4--,what they ,are4--,the ,russian ,vapor-bath4---,after-,sensations4--,bri ghtness and ,lightness of ,health4--,reverence for the ,physical4--,influence of ,bathing on the ,nerves and ,passions4--,necessity of ,public ,baths4 ,it is not a little amusing to receive requests for a way to give sulphur vapor-baths to the face alone4 ,somebody wants a fair complexion1 and fancies it may be gained by bleaching the face like an old ,leghorn bonnet in a barrel4 ,aside from the certainty of being choked to death by this method1 there is no way of whitening and refining the face by applications to it alone1 when the conditions of health are not regarded in other things4 ,carbolic acid may heal pimples1 and glycerine masks soften the skin2 but lovely red and white1 with lips like currants1 and skin like the flesh of young cranberries1 can not be had unless the blood is pure4 ,for this it is indispensable that food should be regulated1 plenty of exercise and sunshine taken1 and all the bodily functions kept in the best order4 ,the woman who thought she could take the sulphur vapor-bath at home in her own bath-room finds that her experience reads like a chapter from the ,danbury ,news man4 ,a bouquet of burning matches would furnish the perfume inhaled in the process1 and the vapor reaching her face1 left it pale and brown in spots1 as if she had moth patches4 ,that she escaped with hair only partially tinged1 and any eyebrows to speak of1 is due to ,nature's guardian care1 which prompted the struggle for life half a minute sooner than pride was inclined to give up4 ,the fumes lingering about the premises have induced the gravest suspicions on the part of her neighbors4 ,she is inclined to think that1 if her face would only turn brown again all over1 she would forego her dreams of ,parian brow and cheeks like peaches4 ,a sulphur vapor-bath is a matter of caution1 when given by the best of hands4 ,it is not well to take it in the damp1 8breaking-up0 weather of ,march1 for the bath opens the pores1 and catching cold with several grains of sulphur in one's body is the next thing to salivation by mercury4 ,the consequence is that one feels heavy and aching1 the eyes grow weak1 and teeth grumble1 while latent rheumatic pains wake up to sharp reminder of one's imprudence4 ,when the weather is warm and settled1 these baths are a luxury and medicine combined4 ,they are most effectual purifiers of the system1 searching out and removing all waste particles1 to leave the skin as new and fair as a baby's4 ,i have seen old and darkened complexions restored by them in a way that was little short of miraculous4 ,these baths are also of benefit in neuralgia1 and deal powerfully with scrofulous affections4 ,the time is not far distant when every town that owns a public hall will also have its public baths4 ,before that time comes1 physicians ought to moderate the charges for these remedial agents4 ,outside of our large cities1 the cost of taking sulphur vapor-baths is #e each1 and they are given only in series1 as prescribed by the judgment or humor of the physician4 ,when will people learn the laws and habits of their own bodies1 so that they need not be at the mercy of every specialist who chooses to make money out of their emergencies8 ,for the benefit of outsiders it ought to be said that the charge in the best establishments of ,new ,york is not higher than #b #ej for the single bath1 and a great reduction from this is common4 ,the essential difficulty of the sulphur vapor treatment is to keep from the face the powerful fumes1 which are dangerous to breathe4 ,for this object the bather enters a wooden box1 with a cover that fits the neck4 ,she takes a seat in the box undressed1 and the cover is adjusted so that only the head is left out4 ,cloths or a rubber collar are closely drawn about the neck to prevent the least escape of gas1 and a wet sponge is laid on the top of the head1 or1 what is better1 a very wet towel folded turbanwise round the back of it1 and over the top1 thus cooling the base of the brain1 the side arteries1 and sensitive upper part4 ,this compress must be frequently wet with cold water during the bath--a precaution which removes the danger of apoplectic seizures by the intense heating of the blood4 ,steam charged with sulphur is then let into the box by pipes1 and in three minutes the perspiration flows as if the luckless victim were melting away4 ,in the best establishments an attendant fans the bather all the time the steam is let on1 to cool the head1 into which the heated blood rushes in a way that makes the wet towel smoke directly4 ,and this is an attention the patient must insist upon1 for faintness or apoplexy may be the alternative4 ,in the sultry and oppressive weather of summer the hot bath is of all others most cooling4 ,no matter how heated the system1 water as hot as possible is the safest and most efficient relief4 ,one wants to remain in it long enough to give every part of the body a thorough scrubbing with soap and a mohair wash-cloth1 which cleanses the skin more thoroughly than a brush4 ,the hot water dissolves every particle of matter that clogs the pores1 the rough cloth and soap remove it searchingly1 and the towel is hardly laid aside before a delicious coolness and freshness passes upon one1 like that of a dewy summer morning4 ,the dangers resulting from a sudden check of perspiration by plunging into cold water when overheated1 or by sitting in a draught to cool1 are avoided1 and a greater sense of coolness follows4 ,people who suffer much in warm weather should reckon this a daily solace4 ,all enervating effects are warded off by an instant's plunge into cool water of1 say1 seventy degrees4 ,i say cool1 for it certainly will feel as if iced after a bath of nearly a hundred and fifty degrees4 ,in a common bath-room1 by this means1 one may experience much of the real benefit of a ,russian vapor-bath4 ,the bath lasts fifteen minutes1 when the vapor is turned off4 ,when the steam in the box has had time to condense1 the cover is unjointed1 and the bather treated to a scrubbing with soap and warm water1 which gradually cools and cleanses the body4 ,then cooler water is poured over the body1 and1 after wiping1 one is wrapped in a fresh sheet and lies down to pleasant dreams4 ,it is hard that such a necessary requisite to the highest vigor should rank1 as it does1 among luxuries4 ,one can hardly imagine an addition to a fine house more desirable than a bathing-hall1 such as ,roman patricians added to their palaces1 where any form of vapor or hot bath was at command4 ,many improvements are needed in our public baths4 ,there should be small dressing-closets1 as there are at swimming-baths1 where one's clothes may be kept from contact with beds on which a thousand people rest in the course of a year4 ,the reposing-hall should be well lighted1 and paved with tiles1 instead of being spread with bits of carpet to be tossed about2 and there should be ample space between the couches4 ,every thing should convey the impression of space and repose--of sunshine1 for the sake of its reviving power1 and of refinement1 for the soothing it always brings the nerves4 ,usually the bath-house is built in a court-yard1 where high walls on every side shut out the sunlight4 ,the basement dressing-room is filled with narrow couches covered with light rubber sheets1 suggestive of nothing more pleasant than cast-off clothing1 and rest measured by the bath clock1 when one's pillow must be given up to a new-comer4 ,from this huddled room the bather steps into one beyond summer heat1 dark and dripping with moisture1 with a plunge bath in the centre4 ,passing through it1 one finds next what seems like a wide marble staircase running the length of each side almost to the low roof1 with gratings let in the face of the steps4 ,the bather ascends one of these stony couches1 and lies down with head on the stony pillow carved every six feet or so for the purpose4 ,wrapped in a sheet1 already wet with moisture since leaving the dressing-room1 a large sponge dipped in cold water at the back of one's head1 and another at the mouth and nose1 one feels as if there were perspiration enough already for sanitary purposes2 but when1 with a hiss and a roar1 the steam is let on through the gratings1 one finds the difference4 ,rolling vapor fills the room1 so dense that every outline is shut out as completely as in the darkest night4 ,the heat rises to suffocation1 the new bather thinks1 and rushes again and again to the douche against the wall to wet her throbbing head1 or into the next room1 which seems cool as a waterfall1 for a gasp of air that she can breathe4 ,old and experienced bathers lie still1 declaring that1 with head down and the wet sponge pressed to the nose1 they breathe without difficulty4 ,what was perspiration is literally a flowing away in rills and sheets of water that drip from the bather's reeking sides4 ,one seems to have turned to jelly1 and submits helplessly to the scrubbing-brush and final shower-bath of water at eighty degrees1 which causes a shiver by contrast4 ,the outer room is refreshing in its coolness1 and one wraps a dry sheet and blanket round one and lies down on the ,india-rubber cloth in dreamy indifference to all the rest of the world4 ,what follows is ,elysium4 ,every ache and pain1 every care1 is dispelled in a trance of rest4 ,all the descriptions by ,eastern travelers of the luxury of the bath are found true in this last stage of enjoyment4 ,one is rejuvenated1 entranced1 and sinks into a light sleep1 whose approach seems a prelude to paradise4 ,the eyes close to keep out the sordid surroundings of the bathing-room2 and every idea1 or rather sensation--for the brain is too passive to think--is bliss4 ,this is the dolce far niente ,italians aspire to--the sum of all delight possible to sensation4 ,passion and rapture have no charms that equal it4 ,it is the death and extinction of all pain4 ,quite as beautiful is the return to consciousness1 sense after sense regaining double brightness as softly and steadily as the unfolding of a flower4 ,after a reluctant waking and going out into the sunlight again one seems to have found a new self4 ,the feather-like lightness and elasticity of every limb amount almost to delirium1 they are so different from one's usual dullness4 ,it is freedom that feels like flying4 ,if this is simply health1 in our common state we must be farther toward extinction than we imagine4 ,in this state of purity and light one learns to reverence one's physical self4 ,a body that at its best is so glorious and happy ought not to be exposed to the disturbance of appetite and the contact of gross things4 ,we need to be very much more refined in our living1 eating1 and breathing4 ,we ought to be nicer about our clothes and our food1 choosing the best of meats1 and fruit far better than we are now content with1 and should place our dwellings out of the reach of the least impure air4 ,in this altered and steadied frame evil dispositions lose their sway4 ,irritable temper is soothed1 despondency flees as by magic1 and fiercer passions lie asleep as at the stroking of their manes4 ,if any one should read this page who battles with unnatural desires1 which make life less blessed and lofty than it was meant to be1 let her have recourse to this efficient ally4 ,it will restore one from the horrible depression which craves alcohol or opium1 it will rescue from the perilous excitement of overwrought nerves or too much brain-work1 and banish those morbid feelings which consciously or unconsciously incline to impurity of imagination if not of life4 ,the purity of the body and the soul are too closely interwoven for any one to dare neglect them4 ,in the old time1 saints used to subdue the body by prayer and fasting4 ,the modern way is by prayer and bathing4 ,it is hard enough to keep a peaceable1 firm1 and sweet habit of soul without letting loose on it the humors and insanities of the body4 ,these are in no way so surely quelled as by warm baths1 and this is why they ought to be among the public buildings of every village1 and made as cheap as possible4 ,there the drunkard might find a stimulus which has no reaction1 the emotionally insane a sedative that would clear his brain and steady his nerves4 ,there the exhausted watcher by the sick might recruit1 and the overwrought student1 lawyer1 or physician find support without recourse to perilous stimulants4 ,the doors of such a place in a large city should stand open night and day1 like those of churches4 ,women need the bath for all these purposes even more than men4 ,the feeble mother will find no soothing for her jarred nerves or lightener of her burdens like the well-applied bath4 ,strange as it sounds1 the vapor-bath does not weaken4 ,it washes away the worse particles of the body that weigh it down1 and leaves it as if winged4 ,i have known an invalid of years take it twice and thrice a week1 gaining strength every time4 ,if harm came1 it is because the head was not kept cool by fanning1 or because the final sponging was not gradual enough4 ,there is harm in every remedy used unskillfully4 ,it is the doctor's province to direct in such matters1 always premising that the best and wisest physicians prefer to teach their clients the rules of health and treatment for themselves1 and seldom refuse to give the reason and theory of their orders4 ,it is safe to be shy of the perceptions and methods of a doctor who doesn't like to tell what medicines he gives1 and why he gives them4 ,the keenest and best medical men are impatient to have others see and understand the truth as well as themselves4 ,,chapter ,,xxi4 ,devices of ,uneasy ,age4--,bread ,paste and ,court-plaster to ,conceal ,wrinkles4--,accepting the ,situation4--,plain ,women and ,agreeable ,toilets4--,examples4--,the ,rector's ,daughter4--,dressing on ,two ,hundred a ,year4--cru ,linen and ,white ,nansook4--,a ,senator's ,wife4--,a ,washington ,success4--,dull1 ,thin ,faces4--,hay-colored ,hair4--,advantages of ,lining ,rooms with ,mirrors4 ,did you ever go to see a lady1 not of uncertain but of uneasy age1 and find yourself ushered into the family sitting-room by a new servant1 who did not know the ways of the house8 ,did you find her with a court-plaster lozenge an inch wide between her eyes1 and one at the outer ends of her eyebrows8 ,at sight of this remarkable ornament1 did concern express itself lest she had fallen down stairs1 or had a difference with the cat8 ,were these insinuations parried with veteran resources1 and were you dissuaded from further inquiry by the delicate remark that she could interest you better than by giving the history of her scratches8 ,of course you knew there was a mystery about those bits of court-plaster1 and perhaps feel so to this day1 unless ,nature have given you the mind of a detective4 ,if so1 your patience is to be rewarded4 ,the secret of those patches was not scratches1 but wrinkles4 ,i trust due tribute will be paid to the ingenuity of failing age1 which has perfected this device for warding off its unwelcome tokens4 ,the rationale of the plan is very simple4 ,the plaster contracts the skin1 and prevents its sinking into creases and lines4 ,it also protects and softens the skin4 ,i have heard of one oldish lady who wears these ornamental appendages all the time in the house when not receiving company1 and covers parts of her face with a dough made of well-mumbled bread to keep her complexion fair4 ,the heroism of this resistance to time must be applauded1 but it is an open question whether the play is worth the candle4 ,the beauty of age lies not in freshness like that of sixteen1 but in clear and lofty expression1 in the look of experience and not unkindly shrewdness1 in the finish of self-repression1 of calmness1 trust1 and sympathy4 ,these things grow on a face as it loses freshness and roundness1 just as the sky begins to show through thinning boughs4 ,the greatest of blessings for some people would be to learn to accept themselves and their gifts4 ,if they could stand apart from themselves a while to see their becoming points1 much of their repining would be dropped4 ,every thing and every body is beautiful in its season4 ,there is a wholesome plainness that accords with domestic life and natural surroundings1 as the bark of trees relieves their green4 ,the color of health1 the gentleness and sweetness that come of a conquered self1 are elements of beauty that make any face tolerable4 ,how dear are the plain faces that have watched our childhood1 with whom we have grown up so closely that feature and form have lost their significance1 so that we really do not know whether they are homely or not1 and see only the love or the humor that lives in their faces4 ,in general1 very ugly people are happily indifferent to their looks1 and degrees of imperfection may always be lessened by judicious use of the arts of dress4 ,a young and homely woman makes herself agreeable by the complete neatness of a very simple toilet4 ,let her eschew dresses of two colors1 or of two shades even1 though the latter are allowable1 if the shadings are very soft4 ,when the complexion is dull1 there must be some warm or lively tinges of color in the costume1 and vice versa4 ,but it is easier to dress real figures than to generalize4 ,cornelia ,jackson is the rector's daughter1 and hasn't above #bjj a year to spend on her clothes and to buy ,christmas presents4 ,she is a little too plump1 is brown1 with some warm color in her cheeks in summer1 and has dark hair4 ,her face never would be noticed except for the jollity lurking in it1 which she inherits from her father4 ,in winter and fall1 when she looks pale1 she 8tones up0 with a morning dress of all-wool stuff1 one of those brown grounds with small bunches of brilliant crimson or purple flowers--a cheery pattern that the rector likes behind the coffee urn of a cold morning--with crisp white ruffles1 set off by the brown dress4 ,crimson or purple1 in soft brilliant shades1 are her colors for neck-ties4 ,her street dress is a dark walnut-brown cloth1 trimmed with cross-cut velvet the same shade4 ,the over-skirts of ,cornelia's dresses are always long1 so that she will not look like a fishing-bob or a doll pin-cushion2 and there is deep rose-color about her bonnet4 ,not roses1 by the way--she has an unspoken feeling that it is not for every body to wear roses--but velvety mallows and double stocks1 imitations of fragrant common garden flowers that are very like herself4 ,the brown and crimson maiden is a pleasant sight of a winter's day1 when the gray of the church and white of the snow need something warm to come between them4 ,in summer she chooses1 or her cousin in ,new ,york chooses for her1 not the light percales that every one else is wearing1 nor the grays and stone-colors that walk to church every ,sunday1 but cru linens1 with relief of black or brown for morning1 when she goes from pantry to garden1 and from sewing-machine to nursery4 ,afternoons she doesn't divide herself by putting on a white blouse and colored skirt1 or a buff redingote over a black train1 but wears a dress of one color1 that looks as if it were meant to stay at home4 ,white nansook is her delight1 its semi-transparency wonderfully suiting her clear brownness1 but solid white linen or cambric she eschews4 ,soft violet jaconet1 and the whole family of lilacs1 are made for her2 and she is luxurious in ruffles and flounces on her demi-trained skirts1 since she makes and often irons them herself4 ,black grenadine1 of course1 she wears1 with high lining to give her waist its full length1 every bit of which it needs2 and she is not too utilitarian to neglect the aid which a modest demi-train on a house dress gives to her height4 ,all the other girls may wear puffed waists and pleated waists4 ,she knows they are not for her plump shoulders1 though clusters of fine tucks on a blouse give length to the waist1 and lessen the width of the back4 ,shawls she never wears1 nor short perky basques1 that are considered--,i don't know why--the proper thing for stout figures4 ,her choice is the long polonaise1 and the ,french jacket1 which by its short shoulders and simple lines conveys a decent comeliness of figure to any one who wears it4 ,if she had a party dress1 it would be white muslin1 or light silvery green silk1 trimmed with pleatings of tulle1 and with them she would wear her mother's pearls1 or her own fine carbuncles4 ,mrs4 ,senator1 with all her fortune and position1 is doomed to hear people speak of her in under-tones at parties1 8,she is rich1 but very plain40 ,being a shrewd woman1 she does not waste her efforts on trying to alter her thin features1 nor does she make herself ridiculous by a false complexion of rouge and pearl-powder1 though her face and her hair are about of a brownness4 ,but on her entry into ,washington society she defied criticism by appearing with her hair crped to show its soft brown lights and shades1 and give the best outline to her head1 her gypsy face opposed to a dead white silk1 of ,parisian origin1 with flounce of pleated muslin1 and corsage trimmings of rich lace4 ,it is a real dress and a real woman that is described1 and it is no fiction that she was the success of the evening4 ,the colorless dress without reflets1 and her ornaments of clustered pearls1 were in most artistic contrast to the nut-brown hair and dusky face4 ,a spot of color would have destroyed the charm4 ,the dress stamped her1 as she was1 a woman of skill sufficient to draw from the most unlikely combination the elements of novel and complete success4 ,the girl who sits near me at the hotel table tries my eyes with her thin1 curious features1 her pale1 frizzed hair1 that makes her face more peaked than it is1 and her oversized skirts4 ,she ought not to wear those light dresses1 for she has no color1 and her thin complexion is not even clear4 ,she has that difficult figure to dispose of1 which is at once girlish and tall1 without seeming so4 ,a trained dress would make her look lean1 so she should dispense with a large tournure1 and let her dresses brush the floor a few inches1 wearing as many small flounces below the knee as fashion and sense allow4 ,if her mother1 who is rather a strict lady1 would insist on having the girl's dresses made with puffed waists1 or loose blouses of thick linen1 instead of the ,victoria lawns that iron so flat1 and show the poor shoulder-blades frightfully1 the effect would be rather delightful4 ,she ought to wear puffed grenadines and lenos of maroon1 rosy lilac1 or deep green--the first lighted with pale rosy bows at the throat and in the hair1 the latter with light green and white1 the lilac with periwinkle knots4 ,how one would like to dress her over again1 and turn the poor thing out charming as she ought to be4 ,her hair-dressing would all have to be done over again4 ,sharp-featured people shouldn't wear curls1 which make the peaked effect still more prominent4 ,soft waves1 drawn lightly away from the face and brushed up from the neck behind1 would be better1 and smooth braids best of all1 with little waves peeping out under them4 ,if the young woman could train herself not to be excitable1 or to smile so overcomingly1 and not be so eager to meet new acquaintances1 she would make a pleasing impression1 while now she gets snubbed in a tacit way1 and those who take her up out of pity hardly feel as if they were paid for it4 ,if women with hay-colored hair could be brought to believe that light brown1 of all others1 wasn't the color for their style1 one could afford to overlook minor deficiencies4 ,one is tempted to think sometimes that there is a loss in not adopting the ,french plan of lining houses with mirrors4 ,if people continually caught sight of themselves1 they would hardly indulge in the grimaces and gaucheries which they inflict on the world4 ,it could hardly lead to vanity in most cases1 and would settle many vexing problems of dress and demeanor4 ,one is not always to be censured for studying the glass4 ,the orator must use it to learn how to deliver his sentences with proper facial play and easy gesture4 ,the public singer studies with a mirror on the music-rack to get the right position of the mouth for issuing the voice without making a face4 ,the want of such training mars the work of some great artists with blemishes which nearly undo the effect of their talents4 ,the injunction that all things should be done decently and in order means that they ought to be pleasing4 ,the study of ourselves can hardly be complete without the aid of the mirror1 which shows candidly the cold smile1 the vacant1 bashful gaze1 we give our fellow-beings1 instead of the decent attention1 the kind1 full glance it is meet they should have from us1 and which we prefer to receive from them4 ,it shows the frown1 the sour melancholy1 which creep over the face in reveries1 and leads us to try and feel pleasant that we may look so4 ,how much confidence one assuring glance at a mirror has given us in going to receive a visitor1 and what kindly warning of what was amiss in expression or toilet before it was too late6 ,is our vanity so easily excited that we are ready to fall in love with ourselves at sight8 ,the intimate acquaintance with our appearance which the glass can give is more likely to make one genuinely humble4 ,in a world which owns among its maxims the gay and wicked refrain of 8manners for us1 morals for those who like them10 good people can not afford to neglect either their toilets or their mirrors4 ,,chapter ,,xxii4 ,physical ,education of ,girls4--,a ,woman's ,value in the ,world4--,high-bred ,figures4--,antique ,races4--,inspiration of ,art not ,vanity4--,the ,trying ,age4--,dress1 ,food1 and ,bathing for ,young ,girls4--,a ,veto on ,close ,study4--,braces and ,backboards4--,never ,talk of ,girls' ,feelings4--,exercise for the ,arms4--,singing ,scales with ,corsets off4--,development of the ,bust4--,open-work ,corsets the ,best4--,the ,bayaderes of ,india and their ,forms4--,the ,delicacy due ,young ,girls4--,a ,frank but ,needed ,caution4--,care of the ,figure after ,nursing4 ,american girls begin to make much of physical culture4 ,as they advance in refinement they see how much of their value in society depends on the nerve and spirit which accompanies thorough development4 ,it is not enough that they know how to dance languidly1 and carry themselves in company4 ,to distinguish herself1 a young belle must row1 swim1 skate1 ride1 and even shoot1 to say nothing of lessons in fencing1 which noble ladies in ,germany1 and some of foreign family here1 take to develop sureness of hand and agility4 ,the heavy1 flat-footed creature who can not walk across a room without betraying the bad terms her joints are on with each other1 must have a splendid face and fortune to keep any place in the world1 no matter how good her family1 or how varied her acquirements1 though she speaks seven languages like a native1 and has played sonatas since she was eight years old4 ,a woman's value depends entirely on her use to the world and to that person who happens to have the most of her society4 ,a man likes the society of a woman who can walk a mile or two to see an interesting view1 and can take long journeys without being laid up by them4 ,he likes smooth motions1 round arms and throat1 head held straight1 and shoulders that do not bow out4 ,when you see that a fine figure must be a straight line from the roots of the hair to the base of the shoulder-blade1 you will realize how few women approach this high-bred ideal4 ,special culture1 indeed1 is discerned where such excellence of line meets the eye4 ,the polished races of the ,east1 who1 untutored and degraded1 yet have the entail of antique subtlety and art1 inherit such figures along with the proverbs of sages and palace mosaics4 ,the best-born of all countries have this noble set of head1 this lance-like figure1 and easy play of limb4 ,as surely as one can be educated to right thoughts and manners1 so the motions and poise of limb can be trained to correctness4 ,the work must begin early4 ,a girl should be put in training as soon as she passes from the plumpness of childhood into the ugly age of development4 ,the mother should inspect her dressing to see what improvement is needed1 and stimulate the child by the desire to possess beautiful limbs and figure4 ,the senses are early awake to the sense of grace4 ,there is no better way to inspire a girl with it than to take her to picture-galleries1 show the faces of historical beauties1 or the figures of ,italian sculpture1 and ask her if she would not like to have the same fine points herself4 ,this substitutes the love of art for that of admiration1 and makes self-cultivation too deep a thing for vanity4 ,there is a time when girls are awkward1 indolent1 and capricious4 ,their boisterous spirits at one time1 their sickly minauderies at another1 are very trying to mothers and teachers4 ,the cause is often set down as depravity1 when it is only nature4 ,girls are lapsided and indolent because they are weak or languid1 between which and being lazy there is a vast difference4 ,they have demanding appetites that strike grown people with wonder4 ,they go frantic on short notice when their wishes are crossed4 ,mother1 if such is the case1 your growing girl is weak4 ,the nursery bath ,saturday night is not enough4 ,encourage her to take a sponge-bath every day4 ,when she comes in heated from a long walk or play1 see that she bathes her knees1 elbows1 and feet in cold water1 to prevent her growing nervous with fatigue when the excitement is over4 ,see that she does not suffer from cold1 and that she is not too warmly dressed1 remembering a plump1 active child will suffer with heat under the clothes it takes to keep you comfortable4 ,if she is thin and sensitive1 care must be taken against sudden chills4 ,keep her on very simple but well-flavored diet1 with plenty of sour fruit1 if she crave it1 for the young have a facility for growing bilious1 which acids correct4 ,sweet-pickles not too highly spiced are favorites with children1 and better than sweetmeats4 ,nuts and raisins are more wholesome than candies4 ,new cheese and cream are to be preferred to butter with bread and vegetables4 ,soup and a little of the best and juiciest meat should be given at dinner4 ,but the miscellaneous stuffing that half-grown girls are allowed to indulge in ruins their complexion1 temper1 and digestion4 ,no coffee nor tea should be taken by any human being till it is full-grown4 ,the excitement of young nerves by these drinks is ruinous4 ,besides1 the luxury and the stimulus is greater to the adult when debarred from these things through childhood4 ,neither mind nor body should be worked till maturity4 ,children will do all they ought in study and work without much urging2 and they will learn more and remember more in two hours of study to five of play1 than if the order is inverted4 ,say to a child1 ,get this lesson and you may go to play--and you will be astonished to see how rapidly it learns2 but if one lesson is to succeed another till six dreary hours have dragged away1 it loses heart1 and learns merely what can not well be helped4 ,a girl under eighteen ought not to practice at the piano or sit at a desk more than three quarters of an hour at a time4 ,then she should run out-of-doors ten minutes1 or exercise1 to relieve the nerves4 ,an adult never ought to study or sit more than an hour without brief change before passing to the next4 ,this keeps the head clearer1 the limbs fresher1 and carries one through a day with less fatigue than if one worked eight hours and then rested four4 ,thoughtful teachers do not share the prejudice against braces and backboards for keeping the figure straight1 especially when young4 ,it is the instinct of barbarous nations to use such aids in compelling erectness in their children4 ,these appliances need not be painful in the least1 but rather relieve tender muscles and bones4 ,languid girls should take cool sitz-baths to strengthen the muscles of the back and hips1 which are more than ordinarily susceptible of fatigue when childhood is over4 ,but never talk of a girl's feelings in mind or body before her1 or suffer her to dwell on them4 ,the effect is bad physically and mentally4 ,see that these injunctions are obeyed implicitly2 spare her the whys and wherefores4 ,it is enough for her to know that she will feel better for them4 ,of all things1 deliver us from valetudinarians of fifteen4 ,never laugh at them2 never sneer2 never indulge them in self-condolings4 ,be pitiful and sympathetic1 but steadily turn their attention to something interesting outside of themselves4 ,special means are essential to special growth4 ,throwing quoits and sweeping are good exercises to develop the arms4 ,there is nothing like three hours of house-work a day for giving a woman a good figure1 and if she sleep in tight cosmetic gloves1 she need not fear that her hands will be spoiled4 ,the time to form the hands is in youth1 and with thimbles for the finger-tips1 and close gloves lined with cold cream1 every mother might secure a good hand for her daughter4 ,she should be particular to see that long-wristed lisle-thread gloves are drawn on every time the girl goes out4 ,veils she should discard1 except in cold and windy weather1 when they should be drawn close over the head4 ,a broad-leafed hat for the country is protection enough for the summer2 the rest of the year the complexion needs all the sun it can get4 ,there is commonly a want of fullness in those muscles of the shoulder which give its graceful slope4 ,this is developed by the use of the skipping-rope1 in swinging it over the head1 and by battledoor1 which keeps the arms extended1 at the same time using the muscles of the neck and shoulders4 ,swinging by the hands from a rope is capital1 and so is swinging from a bar4 ,these muscles are the last to receive exercise in common modes of life1 and playing ball1 bean-bags1 or pillow-fights are convenient ways of calling them into action4 ,singing scales with corsets off1 shoulders thrown back1 lungs deeply inflated1 mouth wide open1 and breath held1 is the best tuition for insuring that fullness to the upper part of the chest which gives majesty to a figure even when the bust is meagre4 ,these scales should be practiced half an hour morning and afternoon1 gaining two ends at once--increase of voice and perfection of figure4 ,this brings us to the inquiries made by more than one correspondent for some means of developing the bust4 ,every mother should pay attention to this matter before her daughters think of such a thing for themselves1 by seeing that their dresses are never in the least constricted across the chest1 and that a foolish dressmaker never puts padding into their waists4 ,the horrible custom of wearing pads is the ruin of natural figures1 by heating and pressing down the bosom4 ,this most delicate and sensitive part of a woman's form must always be kept cool1 and well supported by a linen corset4 ,the open-worked ones are by far the best1 and the compression1 if any1 should not be over the heart and fixed ribs1 as it generally is1 but just at the waist1 for not more than the width of a broad waistband4 ,six inches of thick coutille over the heart and stomach--those parts of the body that have most vital heat--must surely disorder them and affect the bust as well4 ,it would be better if the coutille were over the shoulders or the abdomen1 and the whalebones of the corset held together by broad tapes1 so that there would be less dressing over the heart1 instead of more4 ,a low1 deep bosom1 rather than a bold one1 is a sign of grace in a full-grown woman1 and a full bust is hardly admirable in an unmarried girl4 ,her figure should be all curves1 but slender1 promising a fuller beauty when maturity is reached4 ,one is not fond of over-ripe pears4 ,flat figures are best dissembled by puffed and shirred blouse-waists1 or by corsets with a fine rattan run in the top of the bosom gore1 which throws out the fullness sufficiently to look well in a plain corsage4 ,of all things1 ,india-rubber pads act most injuriously by constantly sweating the skin1 and ruining the bust beyond hope of restoration4 ,to improve its outlines1 wear a linen corset fitting so close at the end of the top gores as to support the bosom well4 ,for this the corset must be fitted to the skin1 and worn next the under-flannel4 ,night and morning wash the bust in the coldest water--sponging it upward1 but never down4 ,madame ,celnart relates that the bayaderes of ,india cultivate their forms by wearing a cincture of linen under the breasts1 and at night chafing them lightly with a piece of linen4 ,the breasts should never be touched but with the utmost delicacy1 as other treatment renders them weak and flaccid1 and not unfrequently results in cancer4 ,a baby's bite has more than once inflicted this disease upon its mother4 ,but one thing is to be solemnly cautioned1 that no human being--doctor1 nurse1 nor the mother herself--on any pretense1 save in case of accident1 be allowed to touch a girl's figure4 ,it would be unnecessary to say this1 were not ,french and ,irish nurses1 especially old and experienced1 ones1 sometimes in the habit of stroking the figures of young girls committed to their charge1 with the idea of developing them4 ,this is not mentioned from hearsay4 ,mothers can not be too careful how they leave their children with even well-meaning servants4 ,a young girl's body is more sensitive than any harp is to the air that plays upon it4 ,nature--free1 uneducated1 and direct--responds to every touch on that seat of the nerves1 the bosom1 by an excitement that is simply ruinous to a child's nervous system4 ,this is pretty plain talking1 but no plainer than the subject demands4 ,girls are very different in their feelings4 ,some affectionate1 innocent1 hearty natures remain through their lives as simple as when they were babes taking their bath under their mothers' hands2 while others1 equally innocent but more susceptible1 require to be guarded and sheltered even from the violence of a caress as if from contagion and pain4 ,due attention to the general health always has its effect in restoring the bust to its roundness4 ,it is a mistake that it is irremediably injured by nursing children4 ,a babe may be taught not to pinch and bite its mother1 and the exercise of a natural function can injure her in no way1 if proper care is taken to sustain the system at the same time4 ,cold compresses of wet linen worn over the breast are very soothing and beneficial1 provided they do not strike a chill to a weak chest4 ,at the same time1 the cincture should be carefully adjusted4 ,weakness of any kind affects the contour of the figure1 and it is useless to try to improve it in any other way than by restoring the strength where it is wanting4 ,tepid sitz-baths strengthen the muscles of the hips1 and do away with that dragging which injures the firmness of the bosom4 ,bathing in water to which ammonia is added strengthens the skin1 but the use of camphor to dry the milk after weaning a child is reprehensible4 ,no drying or heating lotions of any kind should ever be applied except in illness4 ,,chapter ,,xxiii4 ,hands and ,complexions4--,preparing for ,parties4--,refining ,rough ,faces4--,carbolic ,baths4--,chalk and ,cascarilla4--,glycerine ,wash4--,school-girls' ,flushed ,hands and ,faces4--,to ,soften the ,hands4--,red ,noses4--,secrets of ,making-up4--,cologne for the ,eyes4--,cosmetic ,gloves4--,to ,impart a ,brilliant ,complexion4 ,people are in trouble in cold weather about their hands and their complexions1 which take the time when parties abound1 and owners need their very best looks1 to put on a ruinous air4 ,it is more than suspected that the young lady who begs for some good face powder or wash that will hide a bad complexion without spoiling it entirely1 has the end in view of making herself presentable in society for the winter4 ,her entirely reasonable request shall be attended to1 no less on her own account than because she writes in the name of four devoted subscribers4 ,carbolic soaps fail to remove the roughness of her used complexion1 and internal remedies must be resorted to4 ,these should be prescribed by a physician1 and would be passed over at once to his province had not long experience shown that doctors scoff at the idea of prescribing for such puny troubles as flesh-worms and pimples while there are so many typhoid fevers and chronic ulcers to be treated4 ,the pimples foretold the fever1 and the impurities that first showed themselves in the shape of 8black-heads0 might have been discharged at the time1 and not left to malignant issues4 ,pimples are disease of a light form1 and nature tries to throw off in this way bad blood that might give one a worse turn if kept in the body4 ,it can not be said too often that next to keeping murder and wickedness out of one's soul is the necessity of keeping one's blood pure by good food1 strict cleanliness1 warmth1 and bright1 sweet air4 ,these troublesome pimples are a sign that the young ladies who complain of them have eaten food that did not suit them1 eaten irregularly1 or not bathed often enough1 since some skins require more frequent cleansing and stimulus than others1 because they secrete more4 ,perhaps other functions are disturbed1 or the blood is not stirred enough by lively exercise4 ,directions for diet have been given before in these pages4 ,it will be enough to recommend people with irritable blood to drink a glass or two of mild cider1 or eat oranges or lemons1 as they fancy1 within the half hour before each meal1 especially before breakfast4 ,as hard work or exercise as one can endure stirs sluggish secretions1 and work should always be brisk4 ,many a young woman mopes over house-work day after day1 standing on her feet most of the time1 and fancies that she has exercise1 when her slow blood does not once in ten hours receive impulse enough to send it vigorously from head to foot in a way one could call living4 8,work swiftly and rest well10 ought to be a woman's rule4 ,when the blood flows swiftly1 the eye is clear1 the sight better1 the skin refined1 and the whole body feels improvement2 memory and thought are improved1 idleness takes wing1 and happiness steals into the heart4 ,young ladies should not give up their bathing with carbolic soap4 ,hot water1 with a spoonful of prophylactic fluid or phenyl to each quart1 is a very wholesome bath in skin disorders1 followed by a brisk rub with crash till warm1 or wrapping in a blanket by the fire till all danger of chilliness is past4 ,the phenyl and prophylactic fluid are milder forms of carbolic acid1 and1 like it1 disinfectant and healing4 ,a sponge-bath or plunge at seventy-five degrees after a hot bath prevents all weakening effects and taking cold4 ,none but robust persons should ever take baths except in a warm room4 ,the bath-room should always be so arranged as to be heated in a few minutes4 ,otherwise the bath is best taken in one's own room before the fire4 ,the disguise for a bad skin is easily found4 ,refined chalk is the safest thing to use1 and costs far less by its own name than put up in photograph boxes as 8,lily ,white10 etc4 ,cascarilla powder1 which the ,cuban ladies use so much1 is recommended as entirely harmless4 ,it is prepared from a root used in medicine1 and in ,new ,york is sold at all the little ,cuban shops1 with cigars1 tropic sweetmeats1 and other necessaries of life4 ,either wash the face with thick suds from glycerine soap1 and dust the powder on with a swan's-down puff1 removing superfluous traces with a fresh puff kept for the purpose1 or else grind the powder in wet linen by pressing it in the fingers1 and apply what oozes through to the skin4 ,a fine wash for a rough or sunburned skin is made of two ounces of distilled water1 one ounce of glycerine1 one ounce of alcohol1 and half an ounce of tincture of benzoin4 ,without the water1 and with the addition of two ounces of prepared chalk free from bismuth1 it makes a far better cosmetic for whitening the face than any of the expensive 8,balms of ,youth0 or 8,magnolia ,blooms40 ,if a flesh tint is desired1 add a grain of carmine4 ,the lesser trial of rough1 red hands that are not chapped but unsightly1 when not caused by exposure and work1 indicates bad circulation of the blood4 ,school-girls who study a good deal without due exercise often go home with flushed faces and red hands1 to say nothing of an irritable state of the nerves1 that can only be righted by very regular sleep and exercise1 aided by hot foot-baths4 ,out-door exercise in winter is an excellent corrective for rush of blood to the head4 ,dancing brings the blood into play more healthfully than any movement allowed to grown women4 ,the hands are improved by wearing gloves that fit closely1 especially if they are of soft castor or dog-skin4 ,in most cases1 all that is needed to soften hands is to rub sweet-almond oil into the skin two or three days in succession4 ,a quicker way than this in the country is to hold the hand on a rapidly turning grindstone a moment or two4 ,it leaves the palm1 forefinger1 and thumb satin smooth1 and removes callosities incredibly quick1 taking off bad stains at the same time4 ,farmers' girls will take note of this1 and also that rubbing the hands with a slice of raw potato will remove vegetable stains4 ,rubbing the hands well with almond-oil1 and plastering them with as much fine chalk as they can take1 on going to bed1 will usually whiten them in three days' time1 and this hint may be of service before a party of consequence4 ,redness of the nose is a sign of bad circulation and of humor in the blood4 ,it is best treated by applications of phenyl1 rubbed on often each day1 and by alteratives4 ,a spoonful of white mustard-seed taken in water before breakfast every morning is of service in this case and in rush of blood to the head1 which always has something to do with constipation4 ,refined chalk made into a thick plaster with one third as much glycerine as water1 and spread on the parts1 will cool erysipelatous inflammation and reduce the redness4 ,the secrets of 8making-up0 have hardly all been mentioned1 though the list is growing long4 ,what girl does not know that eating lump-sugar wet with ,cologne just before going out will make her eyes bright1 or that the homelier mode of flirting soap-suds into them has the same effect8 ,spanish ladies squeeze orange juice into their eyes to make them shine4 ,a ,continental recipe for whitening the hands looks strong enough3 ,take half a pound of soft-soap1 a gill of salad-oil1 an ounce of mutton tallow1 and boil together2 after boiling ceases1 add one gill of spirits of wine and a scruple of ambergris2 rip a pair of gloves three sizes too large1 spread them with this paste1 and sew up to be worn at night4 ,a curious wash1 evidently ,italian in its origin1 is3 ,equal parts of melon1 pumpkin1 gourd1 and cucumber seeds pounded to powder1 softened with cream1 and thinned to a paste with milk1 perfumed with a grain of musk and three drops of oil of lemon 7oil of jasmine may be substituted for the musk74 ,the face1 bosom1 and arms are anointed with this overnight1 and washed off in warm water in the morning4 ,the authority quoted says it adds remarkable purity and brilliance to the complexion4 ,such pains will women take for that beauty which1 after all1 is only skin deep4 ,but did not ,de ,stal say she would give half her knowledge for personal charms4 ,,chapter ,,xxiv4 ,women's ,looks and ,nerves4--,a ,low-toned ,generation4--,children and their ,ways4--,brief ,madness4--,women in the ,woods4--,singing4--,work well done the ,easiest4--,sleep the ,remedy for ,temper4--,hours for ,sleep4--,the ,great ,medicines--,sunshine1 ,music1 ,work1 and ,sleep4 ,women's looks depend too much on the state of their nerves and their peace of mind to pass them over4 ,the body at best is the perfect expression of the soul4 ,the latter may light wasted features to brilliance1 or turn a face of milk and roses dark with passion or dead with dullness2 it may destroy a healthy frame or support a failing one4 ,weak nerves may prove too much for the temper of ,st4 ,john1 and break down the courage of ,saladin4 ,better things are before us1 coming from a fuller appreciation of the needs of body and soul1 but the fact remains that this is a generation of weak nerves4 ,it shows particularly in the low tone of spirits common to men and women4 ,they can not bear sunshine in their houses2 they find the colors of ,jacques ,minot roses and of ,grome's pictures too deep2 the waltz in ,traviata is too brilliant1 ,rossini's music is too sensuous1 and ,wagner's too sensational2 ,mendelssohn is too light1 ,beethoven too cold4 ,their work is fuss2 instead of resting1 they idle--and there is a wide difference between the two things4 ,people who drink strong tea and smoke too many cigars1 read or stay in-doors too much1 find the hum of creation too loud for them4 ,the swell of the wind in the pines makes them gloomy1 the sweep of the storm prostrates them with terror1 the everlasting beating of the surf and the noises of the streets alike weary their worthless nerves4 ,the happy cries of school-children at play are a grievance to them2 indeed1 there are people who find the chirp of the hearth cricket and the singing tea-kettle intolerable4 ,but it is a sign of diseased nerves4 ,nature is full of noises1 and only where death reigns is there silence4 ,one wishes that the men and women who can't bear a child's voice1 a singer's practice1 or the passing of feet up and down stairs might be transported to silence like that which wraps the poles or the spaces beyond the stars1 till they could learn to welcome sound1 without which no one lives4 ,children must make noise1 and a great deal of it1 to be healthy4 ,the shouts1 the racket1 the tumble and turmoil they make1 are nature's way of ventilating their bodies1 of sending the breath full into the very last corner of the lungs1 and the blood and nervous fluid into every cord and fibre of their muscles4 ,instead of quelling their riot1 it would be a blessing to older folks to join it with them4 ,there is an awful truth following this assertion4 ,do you know that men and women go mad after the natural stimulus which free air and bounding exercise supply8 ,it is the lack of this most powerful inspiration1 which knows no reaction1 that makes them drunkards1 gamesters1 and flings them into every dissipation of body and soul4 ,men and women1 especially those leading studious1 repressed lives1 often confess to a longing for some fierce1 brief madness that would unseat the incubus of their lives4 ,clergymen1 editors1 writing women1 and those who lead sedentary lives1 have said in your hearing and mine that something ailed them they could not understand4 ,they felt as if they would like to go on a spree1 dance the tarantella1 or scream till they were tired4 ,they thought it the moving of some depraved impulse not yet rooted out of their natures1 and to subdue it cost them hours of struggle and mortification4 ,poor souls6 ,they need not have visited themselves severely if they had known the truth that this lawless longing was the cry of idle nerve and muscle1 frantic through disuse4 ,what the clergyman wanted was to leave his books and his subdued demeanor for the hill-country1 for the woods1 where he could not only walk1 but leap1 run1 shout1 and wrestle1 and sing at the full strength of his voice4 ,the editor needed to leave his cigar and the midnight gas-light for a wherry race1 or a jolly roll and tumble on the green4 ,the woman1 most of all1 wanted a tent built for her on the shore1 or on the dry heights of the pine forest1 where she would have to take sun by day and balsamic air by night2 where she would have to leap brooks1 gather her own fire-wood1 climb rocks1 and laugh at her own mishaps4 ,or1 if she were city-pent1 she needed to take some child to the ,park and play ball with it1 and run as ,i saw an elegant girl dressed in velvet and furs run through ,madison ,square one winter day with her little sister4 ,the nervous1 capricious woman must be sent to swimming-school1 or learn to throw quoits or jump the rope1 to wrestle or to sing4 ,there is nothing better for body and mind than learning to sing1 with proper method1 under a teacher who knows how to direct the force of the voice1 to watch the strength1 and expand the emotions at the same time4 ,the health of many women begins to improve from the time they study music4 ,why8 ,because it furnishes an outlet for their feelings1 and equally because singing exerts the lungs and muscles of the chest which lie inactive4 ,the power for the highest as well as the lowest note is supplied by the bellows of the lungs1 worked by the mighty muscles of the chest and sides4 ,in this play the red blood goes to every tiny cell that has been white and faint for want of its food2 the engorged brain and nervous centres where the blood has settled1 heating and irritating them1 are relieved2 the head feels bright1 the hands grow warm1 the eyes clear1 and the spirits lively4 ,this is after singing strongly for half an hour4 ,the same effect is gained by any other kind of brisk work that sets the lungs and muscles going1 but as music brings emotion into play1 and is a pleasure or a relief as it is melancholy or gay1 it is preferable4 ,the work that engages one's interest as well as strength is always the best4 ,per contra1 whatever one does thoroughly and with dispatch seldom continues distasteful4 ,there is more than we see at a glance in the command1 8,whatsoever thy hand findeth to do1 do it with thy might40 ,the reason given1 because the time is short for all the culture and all the good work we wish to accomplish1 is the apparent one2 but the root of it lies in the necessities of our being4 ,only work done with our might will satisfy our energies and keep their balance4 ,half the women in the world are suffering from chronic unrest1 morbid ambitions1 and disappointments that would flee like morning mist before an hour of hearty1 tiring work4 ,it is not so much matter what the work is1 as how it is done4 ,the weak should take work up by degrees1 working half an hour and resting1 then going at it steadily again4 ,it is better to work a little briskly and rest than to keep on the slow drag through the day4 ,learn not only to do things well1 but to do them quickly4 ,it is disgraceful to loiter and drone over one's work4 ,it is intolerable both in music and in life4 ,the body1 like all slaves1 has the power to react on its task-master4 ,all mean passions appear born of diseased nerves4 ,was there ever a jealous woman who did not have dyspepsia1 or a high-tempered one without a tendency to spinal irritation8 ,heathen tempers in young people are a sign of wrong health1 and mothers should send for physician as well as priest to exorcise them4 ,the great remedy for temper is--sleep4 ,no child that sleeps enough will be fretful2 and the same thing is nearly as true of children of larger growth4 ,not less than eight hours is the measure of sleep for a healthy woman under fifty4 ,she may be able to get on with less1 and do considerable work1 either with mind or hands4 ,but she could do so much more1 to better satisfaction1 by taking one or two hours more sleep1 that she can not afford to lose it4 ,women who use their brains--teachers1 artists1 writers1 and housewives 7whose minds are as hard wrought in overseeing a family as those of any one who works with pen or pencil7--need all the sleep they can get4 ,from ten to six1 or1 for those who do not want to lose theatres and lectures altogether1 from eleven to seven1 are hours not to be infringed upon by women who want clear heads and steady tempers4 ,what they gain by working at night they are sure to lose next day1 or the day after4 ,it is impossible to put the case too strongly4 ,unless one has taken a narcotic1 and sleeps too long1 one should never be awakened4 ,the body rouses itself when its demands are satisfied4 ,a warm bath on going to bed is the best aid to sleep4 ,people often feel drowsy in the evening about eight or nine o'clock1 but are wide awake at eleven4 ,they should heed the warning4 ,the system needs more rest than it gets1 and is only able to keep up by drawing on its reserve forces4 ,wakefulness beyond the proper time is a sign of ill health as much as want of appetite at meals--it is a pity that people are not as much alarmed by it4 ,the brain is a more delicate organ than the stomach1 and nothing so surely disorders it as want of sleep4 ,in trouble or sorrow1 light sedatives should be employed1 like red lavender or the bromate of potassa1 for the nerves have more to bear1 and need all the rest they can get4 ,the warm bath1 ,i repeat1 is better than either4 ,sunshine1 music1 work1 and sleep are the great medicines for women4 ,they need more sleep than men1 for they are not so strong1 and their nerves perhaps are more acute4 ,work is the best cure for ennui and for grief4 ,let them sing1 whether of love1 longing1 or sorrow1 pouring out their hearts1 till the love returns into their own bosoms1 till the longing has spent its force1 or till the sorrow has lifted itself into the sunshine1 and taken the hue of trust1 not of despair4 ,,chapter ,,xxv4 ,changing ,wigs and ,chignons4--,matching ,braids4--,frizzing the ,hair4--,crimping-pins4--,blonde ,hair-pins4--,what ,colors ,hair4--,bleaching ,tresses4--,sulphur ,paste4--,foxy ,locks4--,freshening ,switches4 ,the secret of content for most women is not perfection1 but change4 ,they can not even be satisfied with their looks long at a time2 but ,mary1 ,queen of ,hearts as well as ,scots1 must draw an auburn wig over her luxurious tresses1 dark and smelling of violets1 for which regal-haired ,elizabeth would have given the ruffs out of her best gowns1 and her recipe for yellow starch with them4 ,the 8pretty ,miss ,vavasour10 who changed her chignon every morning with her costume1 was a type of the fickle beauties of the day1 who are always better satisfied with some other woman's style than their own4 ,women of intelligence send urgent requests for something to change the color of their hair1 either to make the front locks match the chtelaine braid1 or to bleach it outright4 ,fair blondes1 whose sunny locks have been their pride1 find with dismay that this infantile tinge1 which makes a woman look so young and charming1 is deepening into mature ash-brown--a shade with no prestige or attraction whatever4 ,in their exact eyes it is mortifying to wear a blonde braid several degrees lighter than the crown tresses4 ,these last are growing1 and constantly change1 while the ends keep their early tinge4 ,very few light-haired people pass from youth to middle age without such a change4 ,but1 unless the difference is very startling1 it may be made agreeable by skillfully dressing the hair4 ,light or varied hair should be crimped or waved1 when its tints will appear like the play of light and shade4 ,contrary to all writers on this point1 ,i contend that crimping does not necessarily injure the hair4 ,if it is killed--pulled out by the roots1 or broken by frizzing--the blame is due to careless or ignorant dressing4 ,my own hair was dressed regularly twice or thrice a week with hot irons for years1 and it never grew so fast or was in such a satisfactory state4 ,it was thoroughly combed and brushed1 kept clean by weekly washing1 and each time it went under the curling-tongs it came out moist and stimulated by the heat4 ,the reason was1 the clever ,french coiffeur knew his business1 and never allowed the hot iron to come directly in contact with the hair4 ,each lock was done up in papillotes1 and then pinched with irons as hot as could be without scorching4 ,stiff hair may be trained to curl by long and patient treatment with hot irons1 and be all the better for it4 ,the secret of safe hair-dressing is never to pull the hair1 never scorch1 and always wrap a lock in paper before applying the iron4 ,common round curling-irons and frizzing-tongs may be safety used if thin ,manilla paper is folded once around them4 ,so in crimping3 the hair may be done up on stout crimping-pins held by slides1 or braided in and out of a loop of thick cord1 a bit of thin paper folded over the crimp1 and the pinching-iron used with safety every day1 provided the hair is not pulled too tight in braiding it4 ,the country method1 where friseur's irons are unknown1 is to lay the head on a table1 and set a hot smoothing-iron on the woven lock--an awkward but efficient process4 ,it is not good to put the hair up on metal pins or hair-pins overnight for two reasons3 the perspiration of the head will rust the pins1 insensibly1 so that they will cut the hair2 and the contact of iron with the sulphurous gas given out by hair during sleep tends to darken and render the color displeasing4 ,rubber crimping-pins1 fastened by a rubber catch1 are a late invention1 and a great improvement4 ,but a loop of thick elastic cord is better than any thing4 ,the hair is woven in and out as on a hair-pin1 the elastic holds it when the fingers are withdrawn1 and it is pleasanter to sleep in than half a dozen stiff pins4 ,i know more than one piquant little lady whose 8naturally0 waving tresses are the admiration of her friends by this simple means2 and as the process has gone on for years without lessening the flow of ruffled hair1 it must be conceded that crimping does not always hurt it4 ,iron hair-pins hurt the head more than a generation of friseurs4 ,the latest accusation against them is that they draw off the healthy electricity of the head2 and to a generation which complains of paralysis from using steel pens1 and uses patent glass insulators for the legs of its bedsteads1 this will seem no frivolous charge4 ,the patent insulators are a fact4 ,their use is advised by medical men for all neuralgic1 rheumatic1 and sleepless people1 and one of the largest glass firms in ,new ,york makes their manufacture a specialty4 ,the patent and perfect hair-pin is not yet invented4 ,rubber pins are clumsy if harmless1 but there are gilt hair-pins made of a yellow composition metal which are pleasanter to use than common ones1 and very becoming in blonde hair4 ,dark-haired people must stick to the rubber pins1 or at least see that their black ones are well japanned1 so as not to cut their locks4 ,now1 to give an opinion about the change of hair1 we must know something of its nature1 and what colors it4 ,wise men say that light hair is owing to an abundance of sulphur in the system1 and dark hair to an excess of iron4 ,so if we comb light or red locks with lead combs for a long time1 the lead acts on the sulphureted hydrogen evolved by the hair1 and darkens it4 ,if we can neutralize the iron in any way1 a contrary effect will be obtained4 ,to do this1 work at the dark hair precisely as if it were an ink-spot to be taken out4 ,the skin should not suffer1 and to prevent this1 oil it carefully along the parting1 edges1 and crown of the head1 wiping the oil from the hair with a soft cloth4 ,oxalic acid1 strong and hot1 is the best thing to take out spots of ink made with iron1 and we may try this with the hair4 ,to apply this1 or any of the preparations named1 one should be in undress1 wearing not a single article whose destruction would be of account1 for all the acids and bleaching powders used ruin clothes if a drop touch them1 taking the color out1 and eating holes in the stoutest fabrics4 ,the eyelids and brows should be well oiled to prevent the acid from attacking them1 and the hands1 shoulders1 and face will be the better for similar protection4 ,on one ounce of pure1 strong oxalic acid pour one pint of boiling water1 and1 as soon as the hands can bear it1 wet the head with a sponge1 not sapping it1 but moistening thoroughly4 ,the effect may be hastened by holding the head in strong sunlight1 or over a register1 or the steam of boiling water4 ,five minutes ought to show a decided change1 but if it do not1 wet again and again1 allowing the acid to remain as long as it does not eat the skin4 ,this may not be hard to bear1 but it will make the hair fall out4 ,another mode is to cover the hair with a paste of powdered sulphur and water1 and sit in the sun with it for several hours4 ,the ,venetian ladies used to steep their tresses in caustic solutions1 and sit in their balconies in the sun all day1 bleaching it2 and yet another day1 that the same rays might turn it yellow4 ,perhaps they gained by their folly in one way what they lost in another1 for such an airing and sunning would benefit the health of any woman4 ,a paste of bisulphate of magnesia and lime is very effectual for bleaching the hair2 but it must be used with great caution not to burn hair1 skin1 and brains together4 ,the moment it begins seriously to attack the skin it should be washed off in three waters1 with lemon juice or vinegar in the last one to neutralize the alkali4 ,these pastes are recommended to turn ash-colored hair light4 ,to bleach dark hair is a long and tedious process1 and such an utter piece of foolery that ,i do not care to recount the directions for it4 ,the desire to change the color of the hair can only be justified when it is of a dull and sickly appearance1 and this is best mended by improving the general health4 ,hair can not be glossy1 rich-colored1 and thick unless the bodily vigor is what it should be4 ,indeed1 hair is one of the surest indexes to the state of health4 ,scorched and foxy locks are a sign of neglect and of bad secretions4 ,brushing remedies the first condition1 hygiene the next4 ,but among the varieties of treatment specially appropriate to restoration of the hair1 sulphur vapor-baths must once more be mentioned4 ,doses of sulphur1 taken in ,dotheboys' fashion weekly1 with molasses1 will be of service in keeping the blood pure1 and in time will affect the hair2 but this powerful agent should not be used without advice of a physician1 and the dose should be always followed by simple purgatives1 like mustard-seed1 figs1 or prunes1 eaten freely4 ,chlorines and chlorides are specifics for bleaching hair1 but they turn it gray or white1 and the yellow tinge is dyed afterward4 ,sulphurous applications are the safest1 if common caution is used not to take cold afterward or to breathe any fumes from them4 ,switches that have lost freshness may be very much improved by dipping them into common ammonia without dilution4 ,half a pint is enough for the purpose4 ,the life and color of the hair is revived as if it were just cut from the head4 ,this dipping should be repeated once in three months1 to free the switch from dust1 as well as to insure safety from parasitic formations4 ,the subject of coloring the hair will be spoken of in another chapter4 ,,chapter ,,xxvi4 ,hair and ,complexion4--,black ,dyes4--,persian ,blue-,black4--,peroxide of ,hydrogen4--,chloride of ,gold4--,transient ,dyes4 ,if it were easy to change the color of one's hair1 and possible to fix that change1 which it is not1 the result in most cases would be far from desirable4 ,nature tints hair and complexion in harmony with each other1 and both should be deepened if one is altered4 ,human pictures as well as canvas would often be improved by bringing out the colors1 but the free hand of ,health1 that divine artist1 is the only one whose work is tolerable or enduring4 ,in health this harmony of tint is varied and delicate1 ranging from the rose-and-snow complexions that suit the true blonde dore1 the translucent honeysuckle-pink that sets off red-brown1 blue-black1 and olive-brown hair with decided warmth of cheeks1 or purple-black reflets of the tresses with ,spanish crimson1 or rather the burning rose of tropic blood seen through smooth skin4 ,occasionally there comes an exciting discord1 a minor strain of color that affects one like subtle music1 such as the finding of dark eyes and golden hair1 or clear1 brilliant blue eyes in a gypsy face2 but it is impossible to compose heads in reality with any satisfying results as yet4 ,we have yet to learn how to work from the inside out1 which is the only true method with human modeling4 ,all that can be said on this point1 however1 will not make the red-haired girl one whit less ardent in her desire to see her locks of darker shade1 that they may be less conspicuous1 or keep the dark-haired woman from the coveted vision of bright locks and black eyes4 ,it is useless to talk about the dangers of the process1 or hint that orpiment and realgar are deadly poisons4 ,if every hair had to turn into a living snake while undergoing the change1 it would hardly daunt this courageous vanity4 ,the best to be hoped from any farther enlightenment is that they will renounce these active poisons for something comparatively harmless4 ,du reste1 all readers will be interested in the secrets of the toilet1 and the sight of science turned coiffeur4 ,it is comparatively a simple matter to dye hair black4 ,sulphur is one of the constituents of hair1 which exhales it constantly in the form of sulphureted hydrogen1 fortunately of the weakest sort1 or it would be intolerable4 ,when wet with a solution of certain metals1 the action of this gas turns the hair black4 ,lead combs owe their efficiency to this cause4 ,the lead which rubs on the hair is darkened by the gas1 but the trace of lead at each combing is so slight that the operation must be many times repeated before it takes effect4 ,but lead-coloring1 whether applied by combs or by the paste of litharge1 is a slow poison1 not seldom causing paralysis1 and even death4 ,the absorption of lead into the system at any part is dangerous1 but trebly so when applied so closely to the brain4 ,the tint given by this means1 as well as that dyed with nitrate of silver1 is unnatural1 greenish1 and rusty in the light1 needing continual repetition to appear decent4 ,orientals are in the habit of dyeing their hair and beards the deep jetty black which they admire1 if nature have not given them the desired depth of color4 ,for this purpose ,turks and ,egyptians use a thick solution of native iron ore in pyrogallic acid1 which gives the blackest and most unimpeachable color4 ,the ,persians prefer blue-black1 and use indigo to produce it4 ,european hair-dyers use a solution of iron1 with hydrosulphate of ammonia to develop and fix the color1 but the odor is objectionable4 ,dyes need to be applied once a week to keep the color vivid1 and it is well to touch the partings twice as often with a fine comb dipped in the dye1 as the hair always shows the natural color as fast as it grows from the roots4 ,red and flaxen hair is changed to gold with little trouble1 but dark hair must be bleached with chlorine before the desired tinge is given4 ,the bleaching is the most difficult part of the work4 ,solutions sold for the purpose oftenest consist of peroxide of hydrogen--a somewhat costly liquid1 ,i am told4 ,solution of sulphurous acid will also bleach hair2 so will solutions of bisulphide of magnesia and of lime4 ,the hair1 properly faded or whitened1 is colored yellow with solutions of cadmium1 arsenic1 or gold1 but the cause of the change is the same that produces black dye4 ,the reaction of sulphureted hydrogen on silver or lead turns things black1 but on the metals first named turns them yellow4 ,arsenic in the shape of orpiment or realgar1 two deadly poisons1 is the base of most golden hair-dyes1 and numerous cases of poisoning have resulted from their use4 ,cadmium is harmless1 and yields quite as brilliant a tinge as arsenic1 though less used4 ,chloride of gold dyes a very satisfactory brown1 available for eyebrows1 lashes1 and whiskers4 ,it must be used with exceeding care1 however1 for it stains the skin as well as the hair4 ,if applied with a fine-tooth comb dipped in the liquid1 combing the ends first1 and ceasing just before the skin is reached1 the dye will probably 8take0 by means of capillary attraction1 without affecting the face4 ,cautious use of this preparation on the brows and lashes gives very pleasing results when these are much paler than the hair4 ,they should be first carefully oiled1 and the oil wiped off the hair1 which is then touched with a fine sable pencil4 ,fortunately1 bleaching and dyeing are both such tedious processes that this circumstance alone will keep many persons from submitting to their bondage4 ,once applied1 the dye becomes a necessity1 much harder to leave off than to begin1 as the ,english ,dr4 ,scoffern says1 who is authority for most suggestions in this chapter4 ,one can not blame those persons who brush the roots of the hair or forehead and neck with amber lavender to disguise their pale1 unsightly appearance1 and a touch of the same liquid on white eyebrows does no harm4 ,walnut bark1 steeped a week in ,cologne1 gives a dye that is transient1 but easily applied with a brush each day1 and has instant effect4 ,it takes a day or two to bleach hair1 and hours to color it either black or yellow2 and the work has to be done over month by month in a fashion that brings the victim to speedy repentance of her folly4 ,,index4 ,acid1 ,sulphurous1 page #he4 ,age1 ,devices of ,uneasy1 #bab4 ,amateur ,hair-dressers1 #hi4 ,appearance1 how to ,improve your ,personal1 #if4 ,arabian ,women ,perfume themselves1 how1 #aca4 ,arms-- ,whitening the1 #fd2 a ,paste for ,arms and ,shoulders1 #ij2 how to ,whiten the1 #aab2 a ,paste for ,whitening the1 #abh2 ,exercise to ,develop the1 #bca4 ,artists1 ,woman's1 #hg1 #hh4 ,authors ,eat1 how1 #ajb4 ,awakened1 ,persons should not be1 #bee4 ,awkward1 when ,girls are1 #bbg4 ,balconies and ,parks1 in1 #ih4 ,banting ,system for ,reducing ,flesh1 #age2 a ,quaint ,author1 #agf4 ,bath-- ,towels1 #ed2 ,diana of ,poitiers'1 #ga2 ,sun1 #ig2 the ,vapor1 #abi1 #agj2 ,sulphur ,vapor1 #acj2 ,tepid1 #aeb2 a ,bath is an ,extra at a ,hotel1 #afh2 ,sulphur1 #agj2 the ,bran1 #aga2 the ,russian ,vapor1 #bje1 #bjf1 #bjg2 ,sensations after a ,russian1 #bjh2 the ,sitz1 #bcj2 a ,hot ,soap-suds1 #bda2 a ,sponge1 #bda2 a ,warm ,bath ,good for the ,nerves1 #bef4 ,bathe1 how ,often we should1 #aga4 ,bathing-- the ,value of ,hot1 #ed2 ,magic ,influence of1 #hi2 ,bathing-,powder1 #id2 ,directions for1 #aei2 ,experiments in ,sulphur1 #aii2 ,influence of1 on ,nerves and ,passions1 #bji2 ,bathing for ,girls1 #bbg4 ,baths-- ,sun1 #bj2 a ,substitute for ,sea1 #ee2 ,fashionable1 #hg2 ,public1 #abi1 #bja2 a ,substitute for ,vapor1 #agj2 ,turkish ,baths for ,corpulency1 #agh2 ,sulphur1 #aih2 ,cautions about ,sulphur ,vapor1 #bjj2 the ,time to take ,sulphur1 #bjj2 ,prices of ,sulphur1 #bja2 how to take ,sulphur1 #bjb2 ,hot ,baths for ,hot ,weather1 #bjc2 ,russian ,baths at ,home1 #bjd2 what ,public ,baths are1 #bje2 what ,baths should be1 #bje2 ,improvements ,needed in ,public1 #bje2 for ,drunkards1 #baj4 ,bay ,rum for the ,face1 #agb4 ,bazin's ,pte1 #afj4 ,beauty-- the ,worth of1 #ga2 ,care of ,personal1 #gb2 ,beauty in the ,human ,form1 #hf2 ,literature of1 #acf4 ,bed1 ,time to go to1 #bee4 ,beer1 ,root1 #ic4 ,belle1 a1 must ,row1 ,swim1 ,skate1 and ,ride1 #bbd4 ,belles of our ,cities1 ,old1 #adi4 ,bites of ,insects on ,children1 #ha4 ,blackboards1 #bcj4 ,bleached by the ,dawn1 #ig4 ,blonde ,hair1 how to ,make1 #fh2 ,blonde ,hair-pins1 #bfa4 ,blondes1 ,advice to1 #bj4 ,blood1 ,mild ,cider for ,irritable1 #bdj2 ,dew-cool ,air as a ,blood ,tonic1 #ig4 ,bloom-- ,almond1 #fe2 ,decay of1 #adf4 ,body1 ,nobility of the1 #afe4 ,bonaparte1 ,princess ,pauline--her ,lovely ,foot1 #afb4 ,braces1 #bcj2 ,shoulder ,braces1 #ch4 ,braids1 ,matching1 #beh4 ,brain-- ,brain-work takes ,food1 #ajb2 the ,brain ,dependent on the ,body1 #afg2 the ,brain more ,delicate than the ,stomach1 #bef4 ,bread1 ,true1 #ii1 #ajj4 ,breakfasts1 #ih2 ,christiana's ,breakfast1 #ih4 ,breath-- an ,offensive1 #ee2 how to ,secure a ,fragrant1 #ef4 ,bust-- ,development of the1 #bcc2 ,improving the1 #bcd4 ,calisthenics1 #ch4 ,camphor for the ,face1 #agb4 ,carriage of ,southern ,women1 #dd4 ,cascarilla ,powder1 #gd4 ,caution1 a ,needed1 #bce4 ,cazenave's1 ,dr41 ,composition for the ,face1 #gc4 ,celnart's1 ,madame1 ,works of the ,toilet1 #acd2 ,recipe for ,removing all ,traces of ,tobacco in the ,breath1 #aef4 ,chignons and ,wigs1 ,changing1 #beg4 ,chilblains1 a ,relief for1 #aij4 ,children-- their ,irritations1 #aba2 their ,ways1 #bdh1 #bdi4 ,chilliness is a ,symptom of ,diseases1 #ea4 ,chills are ,incipient ,congestion1 #eb4 ,christiana's ,looks1 #if2 her ,breakfast1 #ih4 ,cider1 ,mild1 for ,irritable ,blood1 #bdj4 ,cigars1 ,people who ,smoke too ,many1 #bdh4 ,circulation1 ,charm of1 #ea4 ,cleanliness means ,health1 #afd4 ,clergymen1 ,sensations of1 #bej4 ,clothing1 ,paper1 #eb4 ,coiffure1 ,arts of the1 #ach4 ,cold ,cream1 #hd4 ,cologne1 how to ,make1 #eh4 ,color1 how to ,procure ,freshness of1 #fj4 ,comedones1 or ,black ,worms1 how to ,remove1 #ge4 ,complexion-- how to ,acquire a ,clear1 #ac2 to ,clear the1 #ag2 ,preparations for ,oily1 #ai2 how to ,procure a ,fine1 #ba2 ,danger of ,painting the1 #fi2 ,rain-water as a ,bath for the1 #ga2 ,best ,wash for the1 #gd2 ,cure for ,bad ,effects of ,sun and ,wind on the1 #hj2 the ,complexion ,ruined by ,fumes of ,medicine1 #he2 ,iris ,hues of the1 #ib2 what ,complexion is the ,sign of1 #if3 ,early ,walks ,improve the1 #ig2 ,effect of ,sunshine on the1 #ih2 ,complexions ,improved by ,taking ,sulphur ,vapor-,baths1 #acj2 about ,complexions1 #aib2 ,complexion gives ,trouble to ,full-blooded ,girls1 #aic2 ,pure ,blood ,makes a ,good1 #aii2 how to ,dress with a ,dull1 #bae2 ,girls' ,complexions1 #bca2 ,trouble with the ,complexion in ,cold ,weather1 #bch2 how to ,impart a ,brilliant1 #bde2 the1 #bfg4 ,composers1 a ,nervous ,opinion of1 #bdh4 ,congestions1 ,vapor-,bath ,good for1 #agj4 ,cooking1 ,proper1 #ii4 ,corns-- ,loose ,shoes the ,cause of1 #aij2 ,soft1 #aia2 ,remedies for1 #aia4 ,corpulence1 ,danger of1 #ahb4 ,corpulency1 ,trials of1 #agg2 ,turkish ,baths for1 #agh4 ,corsets-- about1 #aje2 ,girdles more ,needed than1 #aje2 ,singing ,scales with ,corsets off1 #bcb2 the ,best1 #bcc4 ,cosmetic-- ,artist1 #hg2 ,gloves1 #hi1 #bde2 ,cosmetic1 #adj2 ,sultana's1 #add2 ,milk of ,roses as a1 #aec2 ,cosmetics sometimes play ,tricks1 #aid4 ,crimping-- the ,art of1 #hc2 does not ,injure the ,hair1 #beh2 ,crimping-pins1 #bei2 ,rubber ,crimping-pins1 #bfj4 ,curl the ,hair1 how to1 #hd2 ,curling ,fluid1 #bh2 ,curling-irons1 #bei4 ,custom1 #ih4 ,cuts1 #hj4 ,dancers ,eat1 how1 #ajb4 ,dancing1 #bdc4 ,daughter's ,dressing1 a ,mother should ,inspect her1 #bbf4 ,dawn1 ,bleached by the1 #ig4 ,dentifrice-- ,delicate1 #eg2 ,standard1 #adc4 ,depilatories1 #cb2 ,cautions about1 #abh1 #abi4 ,devices of ,uneasy ,age1 #bab4 ,devonshire1 ,duchess of1 #adi4 ,diet-- for ,persons with 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,expression is the ,sign of1 what1 #ie4 ,eyebrows-- how to ,grow1 #ij2 a ,dye for ,white1 #bgc4 ,eyelashes and ,eyebrows-- ,dyeing the1 #cj2 ,washes for1 #cd2 ,trimmed and ,brushed1 #hh2 how to ,grow1 #ia4 ,eyes ,bright1 ,eating ,sugar with ,cologne on ,makes the1 #bde4 ,eyes1 ,dark1 #abb4 ,face-- ,means of ,softening the1 #ai2 ,making-up the1 #fa2 ,compositions for the1 #gc2 ,olive-oil and ,tar for the1 #abj2 a ,preparation for ,whitening the1 #ade2 ,pastes and ,poultices for the1 #agb4 ,faces-- ,good for ,irritable1 #abj2 ,bleaching1 #aih2 ,dull1 ,thin1 #bah2 ,school-girls' ,flushed1 #bdc4 ,faults1 ,common1 #if4 ,feelings1 never ,talk of a ,girl's1 before ,her1 #bcj4 ,feet-- ,care of the1 #dj1 #afb2 ,position of1 when ,standing1 #dj2 how to ,keep the ,feet ,elastic1 #db2 ,painful ,swelling of1 #db2 how to ,bathe the1 #afb2 ,oil for the1 #afc4 ,figure-- ,erectness of the1 #ch2 the ,proper ,carriage of the1 when ,walking1 #db2 what a ,fine ,figure must be1 #bbe2 ,care of the1 after ,nursing1 #bcf4 ,figures1 ,flat1 #bcd4 ,fine ,arts1 ,school of1 #aaj4 ,finger ,thimbles1 #abd4 ,finger-tips1 ,coloring of the1 #ff4 ,flesh-- how to ,reduce1 #ic2 ,banting ,system for ,reducing1 #age2 ,losing ,flesh at the ,rate of a ,pound a ,week1 #ahb4 ,folks1 ,older1 to ,join with the ,children1 #bdi4 ,food-- for ,weak ,digestion1 #ad2 ,brain-work takes1 #ajb2 about our1 #bji4 ,form-- ,renovating the ,outward1 #ab2 ,beauty in the ,human1 #hf4 ,freckles-- ,golden1 #gh2 how to ,remove1 #gi4 ,freckle ,wash1 #aad4 ,french ,dye1 #ia4 ,frizzing the ,hair1 #bei4 ,frizzing-tongs1 #bei4 ,gargle for the ,mouth1 #aeg4 ,generation1 a ,low-toned1 #bdg4 ,girdle1 a ,linen1 #aje4 ,girdles more ,needed than ,corsets1 #aje4 ,girls-- ,physical ,education of1 #bbd2 when ,girls are ,awkward1 #bbg2 ,bathing for1 #bbg2 ,diet for1 #bbh2 ,dress for1 #bbh2 ,exercise for1 #bcb2 ,care of ,young1 #bce2 ,delicacy due ,young1 #bce4 ,gloves1 ,cosmetic1 #hi2 ,close-fitting1 #bdc4 ,grace-- the ,secret of1 #ch2 how to ,inspire a ,girl with1 #bbf2 in ,women1 ,sign of1 #bcd4 ,gums1 a ,recipe for ,diseased1 #afj4 ,hair-- ,black1 how to ,dye1 #ac2 ,care of the1 #bb2 how to ,cultivate ,children's1 #bc2 ,washes1 #bd2 ,means of ,obtaining ,luxuriant1 #bf2 when to ,cut1 #bf2 ,german ,method of ,treating the1 #bg2 ,curling ,fluid for the1 #bh2 ,oil for the1 #bh2 ,dyes1 #bi1 #ahi2 how to ,treat ,red1 #ca2 ,superfluous1 #cb2 ,growth of1 #cc2 how to ,brush the1 #cc2 ,hair ,powders1 #fg2 to ,darken the1 #fh2 how to make ,blonde1 #fh2 ,fashionable ,gray1 #hb2 ,preparation for ,preventing the ,sea-air from ,turning the ,hair ,gray1 #hb2 ,preparation for ,restoring the ,color of the1 #hb2 how to keep ,hair ,crimped or ,curled1 #hc2 how to ,curl the1 #hd2 ,bather1 #hg2 ,dressers1 ,amateur1 #hi2 a ,wash to ,stimulate the ,growth of1 #ij2 ,bleaching1 #aba1 #bfc2 ,removal of ,hair on the ,face1 #abe2 ,removal of ,superfluous1 #abe2 a ,paste for ,removing ,hairs from the ,face1 #abg2 ,countries where ,women have the ,finest1 #acb2 ,effect of the ,sun on the1 #ach2 ,burdock ,wash for the1 #ahf2 how to keep1 from ,coming ,out1 #ahg2 how to ,restore ,color to the1 #ahh2 ,dye1 ,cheapest and most ,harmless1 #ahi2 ,restorer1 ,sperm-oil a1 #ahi2 ,hay-colored1 #bba2 how to ,dress the1 #bba2 ,false1 #beg2 ,changing the ,color of the1 #beh2 ,crimping does not ,injure the1 #beh2 ,light1 should be ,crimped1 #beh2 ,dead1 should be ,pulled ,out by the ,roots1 #beh2 ,frizzing the1 #bei2 ,hair-pins1 ,blonde1 #bfa2 ,iron ,hair-pins ,hurt the ,head1 #bfa2 ,cause of ,light1 #bfb2 what ,colors1 #bfb2 ,foxy1 #bfe2 how to ,change ,red and ,flaxen1 #bga4 ,hands1 how to ,soften the1 #aaa1 #bdc2 how to ,whiten the1 #aab2 ,bran ,mittens for ,whitening the1 #agb2 how to ,secure ,good1 for ,girls1 #bca2 ,trouble with the1 in ,cold ,weather1 #bch2 ,school-girls' ,flushed1 #bdc2 for ,removing ,vegetable ,stains from the1 #bdd4 ,harvey1 ,mr4 ,william1 #ahj2 ,honors to ,dr41 #ahd4 ,health1 ,cleanliness means1 #afd4 ,heart ,dependent on the ,body1 the1 #afg4 ,hepatic ,spots1 ,remedies for1 #agc4 ,high ,living1 ,effects of1 #abe4 ,homely ,women1 ,hope for1 #ie4 ,hours of ,solitude1 ,reserve our1 #adi4 ,hugo says1 what ,victor1 #aji4 ,humors to the ,surface1 ,drawing1 #aif4 ,infant1 do not ,wash an1 with ,cheap ,soap1 #afa4 ,ink or ,vegetable ,stains1 how to ,remove1 #aab4 ,insulators1 ,patent1 #bfa4 ,iris1 ,florentine1 #ach4 ,italian ,ladies1 ,habit of1 #ge4 ,joints1 to ,restore ,suppleness to the1 #aec4 ,lacing1 ,arts of1 #acf4 ,leaves are ,full of ,joy1 #afe4 ,lecturers ,eat1 how1 #ajb4 ,linen1 cru1 and ,white ,nansook1 #bag4 ,lip-,salve1 #aad4 ,lips1 ,color for the1 #fg4 ,looks1 ,woman's1 #bdg4 ,love-- the ,enigma of1 #adg2 the ,love of ,man1 #adg2 to ,love and be ,loved1 #adg2 ,power of1 over ,man1 #adg2 ,effect of1 on ,women1 #adh2 ,miracle of1 #adh4 ,madness1 ,brief1 #bdi4 ,magnificent1 ,easier to be1 than ,clean1 #afh4 8,making-up10 the ,secrets of1 #bdd4 ,malmaison1 ,josephine of1 #aej4 ,man 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#agj4 ,nose1 ,redness of the1 #bdd4 ,nose-,machine1 a1 #abc4 ,nursing1 ,care of the ,figure after1 #bcf4 ,oil-- for the ,hair1 #bh2 of ,mace1 #ahg4 ,oils1 ,sweet1 #aec4 ,ointment1 ,olive1 #aie4 ,olive-,oil and ,tar for the ,face1 #abj4 ,out-door ,exercise1 #bea4 ,padding1 against1 #bcc4 ,paint and ,powder1 #ei4 ,painting the ,complexion1 ,danger of1 #fi4 ,paleness1 ,northern and ,southern1 #gh4 ,pallor1 ,shining1 #gg4 ,paper as a ,preventative against ,chilliness1 #eb4 ,parks and ,balconies1 in1 #ih4 ,parties1 ,preparing for1 #bch4 ,passions1 how to ,quiet our1 #bj4 ,paste-- for ,shoulders and ,arms1 #ij2 for ,removing ,hairs from the ,face1 #abg2 for ,whitening the ,arms1 #abh2 of ,venus1 #aci2 ,sulphur1 #bfc4 ,pastilles1 ,gray1 for ,purifying the ,breath1 #aef4 ,pte1 ,bazin's1 #afj4 ,perfume-- of the ,presence1 #di2 how ,arabian ,women ,perfume themselves1 #aca2 ,perfumes1 #ada2 for the ,body1 #adb2 ,lost1 #adc2 of ,spring1 #adi2 of the ,bath1 #aei4 ,perspiration-- ,preparation for ,profuse1 #ic2 ,cure for ,odor of the1 #aei2 ,dangers ,resulting from ,suddenly ,checking1 #bjc4 ,petrarch's ,laura1 #hh4 ,physical ,culture ,urgent1 #afg4 ,physical ,education of ,girls1 #bbd4 ,piano1 ,practice at the1 #bbi4 ,pimples-- a ,recipe to ,remove1 #gd2 are ,disease1 #bci4 ,pimple-,wash1 #aad4 ,pomades1 #be2 ,southernwood1 #bi2 ,almond1 #hd2 ,mexican1 #ada4 ,powder1 #fb2 ,chalk1 #fc2 ,cascarilla1 #gd1 #bdb2 ,bathing1 #id4 ,powder and ,paint1 #ei4 ,preparation for ,profuse ,perspiration1 #ic4 ,presence1 ,perfume of the1 #di4 ,prime1 ,woman's1 #aa4 ,principals of ,schools1 a ,word to1 #aji4 ,prophylactic ,fluid1 #bda4 ,prostration1 ,cure for ,nervous1 #ac4 ,queen of ,england1 the1 uses ,distilled ,water for her ,toilet1 #afi4 ,races-- ,grace of the ,latin1 #cg2 ,antique1 #bbf4 ,rcamier's ,training1 #gj4 ,recipes-- for ,warm ,days1 #ib2 ,perfume1 #aci1 #adj1 #ada1 #adb4 ,rheumatism1 ,good for1 #agj4 ,rooms1 ,advantages of ,lining1 with ,mirrors1 #bba4 ,roses1 ,milk of1 #ff4 ,rouge-- ,tints of1 #fd2 ,devoux ,french1 #ff4 ,rusma1 ,oriental1 #ach4 ,sallowness1 how to ,remove1 #ib4 ,salve-- ,lip1 #aad2 ,toilet1 #aad4 ,scalp1 ,preparations for ,dry1 #be4 ,scrofulous ,affections1 ,good for1 #bja4 ,sea-,baths1 a ,substitute for1 #ee4 ,shoe-,lining1 #afd4 ,shoes1 ,tight1 #da4 ,shoulder-- ,braces1 #ch2 how to ,acquire ,sloping ,shoulders1 #dj2 a ,paste for ,arms and ,shoulders1 #ij2 ,device for ,stiff ,shoulders1 #ajc4 ,singers and ,students1 ,diet for1 #ae2 how ,singers ,eat1 #ajb2 ,training of1 #aea2 ,singing ,scales with ,corsets off1 #bcb2 ,singing1 #bea4 ,situation1 ,accepting the1 #bad4 ,skin-- ,irritations of the1 #bj2 ,prescription for the1 #gi2 ,cure for ,rough ,skins from ,yachting1 #gi2 ,rough1 #hj2 ,summer ,irritations of the1 #ha2 ,inflammation of the1 #he2 for ,improving the1 #aac2 how to ,prolong the ,freshness of the1 #aeb2 ,bran ,cleanses the1 #aga2 a ,recipe for ,sunburned and ,freckled1 #aib2 ,cause of ,rough1 #aic2 ,effect of ,consumption on the1 #aie4 ,sleep-- the ,remedy for ,temper1 #bed2 ,number of ,hours to1 #bed2 ,people who ,need ,much1 #bee4 ,soaps-- ,quality of1 #afj2 do not use ,cheap1 #afa2 ,carbolic1 #bch4 ,solitude1 ,reserve our ,hours of1 #adi4 ,southern ,women1 ,carriage of1 #dd4 ,southernwood ,pomade1 #bi4 ,spirits1 how to ,obtain ,unfailing1 #aja4 ,stains1 how to ,remove ,ink or ,vegetable1 #aab4 ,still1 a ,small1 #afi4 ,stippled ,skin1 ,cure for1 #ah4 ,stockings1 how ,often to ,change1 #afc4 ,stomach1 to ,maintain a ,healthy ,condition of the1 #ah4 ,stout and ,thin ,people1 ,food for1 #af2 a ,hint to ,stout ,people1 #ic2 why ,people ,grow ,stout1 #ajb4 ,study1 a ,veto on ,close1 #bbi4 ,superfluous ,hair1 #cb4 ,surgeon1 a ,wise1 #ahj4 ,swimming-,school1 ,nervous ,women should go to1 #bea4 ,switches1 ,freshening1 #bfe4 ,tan-,wash1 #aad4 ,tar1 #aie4 ,tea1 ,people who ,drink ,strong1 #bdh4 ,teeth-- for ,decaying1 #ef2 ,cleansing of the1 #eg2 ,wash for the1 #adc4 ,temper1 how to ,soothe the1 #bji2 ,sleep the ,remedy for1 #bed2 ,heathen ,tempers a ,sign of ,wrong ,health1 #bed4 ,theatricals1 ,dyes for1 #cd4 ,thin and ,stout ,people1 ,food for1 #af4 ,tint1 a ,brown1 #ia4 ,tobacco in the ,breath1 ,remedy for1 #aef4 ,toilet-- ,water1 #eh1 #adj2 ,antique ,toilet ,arts1 #fj2 the ,toilet a ,profession1 #hg2 ,influence of a ,luxurious1 #hh2 ,luxury of the1 #hh2 ,artistic at the1 #aaf2 ,cares of the1 #acf2 ,craft of the1 #aeb2 ,toilet ,waters and ,pastes1 #afa2 ,distilled ,water for the1 #afi2 ,plain ,women and ,agreeable1 #bae4 ,toothache1 ,recipe for the1 #aee4 ,tooth-,wash1 #aeh4 ,towels1 ,bath1 #ed4 ,training1 ,rcamier's1 #gj4 ,tweezers1 ,roman1 #abf4 ,typhoid ,fever sometimes ,caused by ,high ,living1 #abf4 ,ulcers1 #hj4 ,unfeminine ,traits1 #ajh4 ,vanities1 ,different1 #aji4 ,vestris1 ,madame1 #aeb4 ,vitriol1 ,wash of1 #gf4 ,wakefulness a ,sign of ,ill-,health1 #bee4 ,walking in ,relation to ,health1 #df4 ,warm ,days1 ,recipes for1 #ib4 ,wash-- of ,vitriol1 #gf2 to ,stimulate the ,growth of ,hair1 #ij2 a ,sand1 #aaa2 for ,tan1 ,freckles1 ,pimples1 and ,blotches1 #aad2 for ,teeth or ,hands1 #adc2 for ,sunburned ,skin1 #bdb2 ,glycerine1 #bdb4 ,water-- ,toilet1 #eh1 #adj2 ,distilling #afh2 ,distilled ,water for the ,toilet1 #afi4 ,weak1 how the1 should ,work1 #bec4 ,wife1 a ,senator's1 #bah4 ,wigs1 ,blonde1 for ,theatricals1 #fh2 ,wigs and ,chignons1 ,changing1 #beg4 ,willis1 ,n4 ,p41 on ,beauty1 #dh4 ,woman-- her ,business to be ,beautiful1 #i2 ,woman's ,artists1 #hg1 #hh2 a ,healthy ,woman1 #ajg2 the ,loveliest ,woman of ,france1 #aej2 ,trials of a ,plain1 #ahe2 how a ,homely ,woman can make ,herself ,agreeable1 #bae2 what ,man ,admires in a1 #bbe2 ,woman's ,value in the ,world1 #bbe2 a ,woman's ,rule1 #bdj2 ,woman's ,looks and ,nerves1 #bdg4 ,women-- ,carriage of ,southern1 #dd2 ,hope for ,homely1 #ie2 ,transformation of ,homely ,women into ,charming ,beings1 #ie2 ,sorrows of ,ugly1 #aaj2 ,effect of ,being in ,love on1 #adh2 at and after ,thirty1 #aej2 ,counsel to ,women of ,thirty1 #aae2 ,porcelain1 #aif2 what is to be ,done with ,weak1 #aif2 ,plain ,women and ,agreeable ,toilets1 #bae2 ,sensations of ,writing1 #bej2 ,nervous ,women should go to ,swimming-,school1 #bea2 why ,women should ,study ,music1 #beb2 ,jealous ,women have ,dyspepsia1 #bed2 why ,women ,need more ,sleep than ,men1 #bef2 the ,secret of ,content for most1 #beg4 ,work-- a ,nervous ,person's1 is ,fuss1 #bdh2 how the ,weak should1 #bec2 well done the ,easiest1 #bec4 ,worms-- ,black1 or ,comedones1 how to ,remove1 #ge2 ,flesh1 #bci4 ,wrinkles-- a ,kind of ,varnish for1 #ge2 how to ,ward off1 #aeb2 ,bread ,paste and ,court-,plaster to ,conceal1 #bac4 ,,the ,,end4 ,illustration 99 99 99 99 99 ,transcriber's note ,minor punctuation errors have been changed without notice4 ,inconsistencies in hyphenation have been standardized4 ,page number references in the index are as published in the original publication and have not been checked for accuracy in this e,book4 ,other spelling has also been retained as originally published except for the changes below4 ,page #ic3 8of sassafras drank0 8of sassafras drunk0 ,page #aba3 8for trs blondes0 8for trs blondes0 ,page #abe3 8,,chapter ,,xi 40 8,,chapter ,,xii40 ,page #aib3 8,a southern lady0 8,a ,southern lady0 ,page #bag3 8its semi-tranparency0 8its semi-transparency0 ,page #bgg3 8,washes for1 20 8,washes for1 #cd20