,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,au?or ,,& ,,8       
,,guides ,,?ree ,,fai?ful ,,m5          
,,?r\gh ,,five ,,republics ,,on         
,,horseback  ,,be+ ,,an ,,acc\nt ,,(    
,,_m ,,w&]+s ,,9 ,,s\? ,,am]ica   ,,by  
,g4 ,,:itfield ,,ray1 ,f4 ,r4 ,g4 ,s4   
,pione] ,mission>y & ,gov]nm5t ,explor] 
,) an ,introduction by ! ,rev4 ,j4 ,g4  
,br[n1 ,d4 ,d4 ,secret>y = ! ,=eign     
,missions ( ! ,canadian ,bapti/ ,*ur*   
,,twelf? ,,edition--,,revis$            
,,evangelical ,,publi%+ ,,h\se ,c4      
,,haus]1 ,ag5t ,,clevel&1 ,,ohio1 ,u4   
,s4 ,a4 #aiae     ,illu/ration3 ,,s\?   
,,am]ica     ,,preface  ,! ,mission>y   
,review ( ! ,_w has describ$ ,s\?       
,am]ica z ,,! ,,d>ke/ ,,l&4 ,t ,i h be5 
able to p5etrate into "p ( its unexplor$
 int]ior1 & visit tribes ( p hi!rto     
unt\*$ & unkn[n1 0 urg$ z suffici5t     
reason = ! publi%+ ( ?is "w4 ,9 p]ils   
(t1 ?r\gh hung] & ?ir/ & fev]1 consequ5t
 on ! _m w&]+s 9 unheal?y climes h]e9   
record$1 ! writ] wi%es publicly to      
record 8 deep ?ankfulness to ,almighty  

,god = ,8 unfail+ help4 ,if ! acc\nts   
are us$ to /imulate mission>y ent]prise1
 & if !y give ! read] a cle>] conception
 ( & full] sympa?y ) ! conditions & ne$s
 ( ^? ,s\? ,am]ican c\ntries1 ^? ye>s ( 
travel w n h be5 9 va94  ,( ! mak+ (    
books !re is no end1 s :5 "o is         
acceptably receiv$1 & comm&s a ready    
sale1 ! au?or is satisfi$ t 8 labor is  
well repaid4 ,! #d? edition 0 sc>cely   
dry :5 ! ,consul-,g5]al ( ! ,arg5t9e    
,republic at ,ottawa ord]$ a l>ge numb] 
( copies to s5d to ! memb]s ( 8         
,gov]nm5t4 ,mu* ( x has be5 translat$   
into ,g]man1 & ,i "k n :at o!r          
languages4 ,ev5 ! ,ca?olic ,regi/] (    
,toronto has boo/$ its sale by pr9t+ mu*
 9 abuse ( x1 at ! same "t tell+ its    
read]s t ! book sold l hot cakes4 ,a    
wis] editor w\ld h be5 discreet en\gh n 
to ref] to ,?r\gh ,five ,republics on   
,horseback4 ,8 read]s b\ght x1 &--_h _! 
eyes op5$1 = ! /atem5ts made 9 ?is "w1 &
 ! au?orities quot$1 are unansw]able4   
,see+ t !re is su* an al>m+ ignorance   

reg>d+ ,lat9 ,am]ica1 ,i h1 = ?is       
edition1 writt5 an ,introductory ,*apt] 
on ,s\? ,am]ica1 & also a %ort ,=eword  
especially relat+ to ea* ( ! ,five      
,republics "h treat$4 ,z my portrayal ( 
,romanism !re has caus$ "s discussion1  
,i h1 9 ^? pages1 s\ght to incorporate !
 words ( o!r au?orities on ,s\? ,am]ican
 life & religion4  ,t ! foll[+          
n>ratives1 n[ aga9 revis$1 & s5t =? 9   
new g>b1 may be increas+ly helpful 9    
promot+ k1 is ! e>ne/ wi% ( ! au?or4    
,g4 ,w4 ,r4  ,toronto1 ,ont4            
,,introduction  ,?r\gh ,five ,republics 
on ,horseback has all ! elem5ts ( a     
great mission>y book4 ,x is writt5 by an
 au?or :o is an eye-witness (           
practically all t he records1 & "o :o by
 8 explorations & travels has won =     
himself ! title ( ! ,liv+/one ( ,s\?    
,am]ica4 ,! sc5es depict$ by ! writ] & !
 glimpses into ! social1 political &    
religi\s conditions prevail+ 9 !        
,republics 9 ! great ,s\!rn cont95t are 
( ?rill+ int]e/ to all lov]s ( mank9d4  

,we d\bt if !re is ano!r book 9 pr9t t  
)9 ! compass ( ?ree hundr$ pages beg9s  
to give z mu* valuable in=mation z is   
conta9$ 9 ,mr4 ,ray's volume4 ,! writ]  
wields a facile p51 & e page gl[s ) !   
passion ( a man on fire ) zeal = !      
evangelization ( ! great ,neglect$      
,cont95t4 ,we are sure t no "o c read   
?is book & be indiff]5t to ! claims (   
,s\? ,am]ica ^u ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur* ( ?is  
g5]ation4  ,to ^? :o desire to le>n j   
:at ! fruits ( ,romanism z a sy/em are1 
:5 left to itself & un9flu5c$ by        
,prote/antism1 ?is book w prove a real  
eye-op5]4 ,we d\bt if any ,*ri/ian man1 
aft] read+ ,?r\gh ,five ,republics on   
,horseback1 w any long] conclude t      
,romanism is good en\gh = ,romani/s & t 
,missions to ,roman ,ca?olic c\ntries   
are an imp]t95ce4 ,we tru/ ! book w     
awak5 a great int]e/ 9 ! evangelization 
( ! ,lat9 ,republics ( ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,(
 c\rse1 ?is volume w h int]e/ = o!rs    
besides mission>y en?usia/s4 ,ap>t f !  
religi\s & mission>y purpose ( ! book1 x

 conta9s v mu* 9 ! way ( geographical1  
hi/orical & sci5tific in=mation1 & t1   
too1 9 reg>d to a field ( :i* z yet     
comp>atively little is kn[n4 ,! writ]   
has kept an op5 m9d 9 8 ext5sive        
travels1 & 8 record ab\nds 9 facts (    
great sci5tific value4  ,we h kn[n ,mr4 
,ray = sev]al ye>s & delight to be>     
te/imony to 8 ability & fai?fulness z a 
prea*] & pa/or4 ,z a lectur] on 8       
exp]i5ces 9 ,s\? ,am]ica he is          
unexcell$4 ,we comm5d ,?r\gh ,five      
,republics on ,horseback especially to  
p>5ts :o are anxi\s to put into ! h&s ( 
_! *ildr5 inspir+ & "*-=m+ read+4 ,a    
copy ( ! book ought to be 9 e ,sunday   
,s*ool ,libr>y4  ,j4 ,g4 ,br[n4  #fbf   
,conf$]ation ,life ,build+1 ,toronto4   
,a ,,prelim9>y ,,^w ,,on ,,s\? ,,am]ica 
,! ,cont95t ( ,s\? ,am]ica 0 discov]$ by
 ,spani% navigators t[>ds ! end ( !     
fifte5? c5tury4 ,:5 ! tid+s ( a new _w  
beyond ! seas rea*$ ,europe1 ,spani% &  
,portuguese exp$itions vi$ ) ea* o!r 9  
explor+ its coa/s & sail+ up its mighty 

riv]s4  ,9 #adid ! ,pope decid$ t ^! new
 l&s1 :i* 7 ne>ly twice ! size (        
,europe1 %\ld become ! possession ( !   
mon>*s ( ,spa9 & ,portugal4 ,?us by "r (
 conque/ & gift ,s\? ,am]ica ) its sev5 
& a half million miles ( t]ritory & its 
millions ( ,indian inhabitants 0 divid$ 
betwe5 ,spa9 & ,portugal4 ,! ea/]n      
nor!rn half1 n[ call$ ,brazil1 became ! 
possession ( ! ,portuguese cr[n & ! re/ 
( ! cont95t w5t to ! cr[n ( ,spa94 ,s\? 
,am]ica is #d1fjj miles f nor? to s\?1 &
 its greate/ bread? f ea/ to we/ is     
#c1ejj miles4 ,x is a c\ntry ( pla9s &  
m\nta9s & riv]s4 ,! ,&ean range (       
m\nta9s is #d1djj miles long4 ,twelve   
peaks t[] ?ree miles or m above ocean   
level1 & "s rea* into ! sky = m ?an f\r 
miles4 ,_m ( ^! are burn+ m\nta9s2 !    
volcano ( ,cotopaxi is ?ree miles high] 
?an ,vesuvius4 ,its riv]s are among !   
longe/ 9 ! _w4 ,! ,amazon1 ,or9oco & ,la
 ,plata sy/ems dra9 an area ( #c1fhf1djj
 squ>e miles4 ,its pla9s are almo/      
b\ndless & its =e/s limitless4 ,!re are 

des]ts :]e no ra9 ev] falls1 & !re are  
/ret*es ( coa/ l9e :]e no day ev] passes
 )\t ra94 ,x is a c\ntry :]e all        
climates c be f\nd4 ,z ! nor!rn "p ( !  
cont95t is equatorial ! greate/ degree (
 heat is !re exp]i5c$1 :ile ! s\?       
/ret*es its l5g? t[>d ! ,pole ,quito1 ! 
capital ( ,ecuador1 is on ! equator1 &  
,punta ,ar5as1 9 ,*ile1 is ! s\!rnmo/   
t[n 9 ! _w4  ,= hundr$s ( ye>s ,spa9 &  
,portugal exploit$ & rul$ ) an iron h&  
_! new & va/ possessions4 ,_! c(f]s 7   
enri*$ by fabul\s sums ( gold &         
treasure1 = ! wilde/ dream ( ri*es      
indulg$ 9 by its discov]]s fell         
inf9itely %ort ( ! actual reality4 ,l>ge
 numb]s ( coloni/s left ! ,ib]ian       
p59sula = ! new] & ri*] l&s4 ,prie/s1   
monks & nuns w5t 9 e vessel1 & ! ,roman 
,ca?olicism ( ! ,d>k ,ages 0 soon firmly
 e/abli%$ z ! only religion4 ,!         
aborig9es 7 compell$ to b[ be=e !       
crucifix & wor%ip ,m>y until1 9 a       
peculi> s5se1 ,s\? ,am]ica became !     
,pope's favorite p>i%4 ,= ! b5efit (    

any1 native or coloni/1 :o ?\ght t a    
pur] religion %\ld be1 at any rate1     
p]mitt$1 ! ,inquisition 0 e/abli%$ at   
,lima1 & lat] on at ,c>tag5a1 :]e1      
,colombian hi/ory in=ms u1 #djj1jjj 7   
condemn$ to dea?4 ,free ?\ght 0 soon    
/amp$ out :5 dea? became ! p5alty4  ,su*
 0 ! wild /ate ( ! c\ntry & ! p[] ve/$ 9
 ! prie/s t abuses 7 tol]at$ :i*1 ev5 9 
,rome1 _h n be5 dream$ (4 ,! prie/s1 z  
anxi\s = spiritual conque/ z ! re/ 7 =  
physical1 jo9$ h&s ) ! hea!nism ( !     
,indians1 accept$ _! gods ( wood & /one 
z sa9ts1 set up ! crucifix side by side 
) ! images ( ! sun & moon1 =m]ly        
wor%ipp$2 & :ile 9 ,europe ! sun ( !    
,re=mation arose & dispell$ ! t]rible   
night ( religi\s error & sup]/ition1    
,s\? ,am]ica sank f bad to worse4 ,?us !
 anomaly pres5t$ itself ( ! old1 effete 
l&s ?r[+ (f ! yoke ( religi\s dom9ation 
:ile ! y\ng] ones 7 = c5turies to be    
cont5t ) s9k+ l[] & l[]4 ,footnote3     
,hi/ory is repeat+ itself1 = "h 9       
,canada we see ,quebec m ,ca?olic &     

intol]ant ?an ,italy4 ,! ,mayor ( ,rome 
d>$ to criticize ! ,pope 9 #aiaj1 b 9 ! 
same ye> at ! ,eu*>i/ic ,congress at    
,montreal 8 emiss>ies receive rev]5t    
homage f ^? 9 au?ority4 ,no wond]1      
!re=e1 t1 :ile ! ,romans are be+ m      
enlight5$ e ye>1 a ,quebec "y man1 :o is
 n[ a !ological /ud5t 9 ,mc,master      
,univ]sity1 ,toronto1 decl>$1 :ile /ay+ 
9 ! writ]'s home1 t1 z a *ild he 0      
always taught t ,prote/ants grew horns  
on _! heads1 & t he atta9$ ! age ( #ae  
be=e ev] he discov]$ t su* 0 n ! case4  
,ev5 backw>d ,portugal has _h its eyes  
op5$ to see t ,rome & progress _c walk  
toge!r1 b ! ,presid5t ( ,brazil is s    
fai?ful t ! ,pope1 9 #aiaj1 made him a  
,knight ( ! ,gold5 ,spur4  ,if !        
religi\s emancipation ( ! old _w did n  
f9d its e*o 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 ideas (     
fre$om f k+ly oppression began to take  
root 9 ! he>ts ( ! p1 & be=e ! ye> #ahbe
 ! ,spani% colonies _h ris5 aga9/ ! "m  
c\ntry & _h =m$ !mselves into sev]al    
indep5d5t republics1 :ile ?ree ye>s be=e

 t ! indep5d5ce ( ,brazil f ,portugal _h
 be5 decl>$4 ,at ! pres5t day no "p ( ! 
va/ cont95t is rul$ by ei!r ,spa9 or    
,portugal1 b t5 indep5d5t republics h _!
 diff]5t flags & gov]nm5ts4  ,s9ce its  
e>ly discov]y ,s\? ,am]ica has be5      
pre-em95tly a c\ntry ( blood%$4         
,revolution has succe$$ revolution &    
hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( ! brave/ h be5 sla91  
b1 pho5ix-l1 ! c\ntry rises f its a%es4 
,fifty millions ( p n[ dwell b5ea? !    
,s\!rn ,cross & speak ! ,portuguese &   
,spani% languages1 & x is e/imat$ t1 ) !
 pres5t rate ( increase1 #ahj millions (
 p w speak ^! languages by #aibj4  ,s\? 
,am]ica is1 pre-em95tly1 ! com+ cont95t4
 ,x is m ?9ly settl$ ?an any o!r "p ( ! 
_w4 ,at lea/ six million miles ( its    
t]ritory are suitable =                 
immigrants--d\ble ! available t]ritory (
 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,no o!r tract ( good  
l& exi/s t is s l>ge & s unoccupi$ z    
,s\? ,am]ica4 ,footnote3 ,dr4 ,wood1    
,lima1 ,p]u1 9 ,prote/ant ,missions 9   
,s\? ,am]ica4 ,"o ( ! mo/ m>vell\s (    

activities 9 ! developm5t ( virg9 l&s is
 9 progress4 ,x is great] ?an t (       
,sib]ia1 ( ,au/ralia1 or ! ,canadian    
,nor?-,we/4 ,footnote3 ,! ,outlook1     
,m>*1 #aijh4 ,emigrants are p\r+ into ! 
cont95t f cr[d$ ,europe1 ! old ord] (   
?+s is quickly pass+ away1 & docks &    
railroads are be+ built4 ,bolivia is    
sp5d+ m ?an fifty million doll>s 9 new  
"w4 ,arg5t9a & ,*ile are pu%+ l9es 9 all
 directions4 ,brazil is prep>+ to       
p5etrate h] va/ jungles1 & all ?is means
 enorm\s exp5se1 = ! highe/ po9ts & mo/ 
difficult con/ruction t h ev] be5       
enc\nt]$ are f\nd 9 ,p]u1 & betwe5 ,*ile
 & ,arg5t9a !re has be5 con/ruct$ !     
longe/ tunnel 9 ! _w4 ,footnote3 ,"o    
railway asc5ds to ! height ( #ab1hjj    
feet4  ,mo/ important ( all1 ! old      
m$ieval ,romanism ( ! ,d>k ,ages is los+
 its grip ^u ! masses1 & sl[ly1 b       
surely1 ! leav5 is work+ :i* w1 be=e    
ano!r decade1 br+ ,s\? ,am]ica to !     
=efront ( ! nations4  ,! economic       
possibilities ( ,s\? ,am]ica _c be      

ov]e/imat$4 ,x is a cont95t ( va/ & v>i$
 possibilities4 ,!re are /ill di/ricts z
 l>ge z ! ,g]man ,empire entirely       
unexplor$1 & tribes ( ,indians :o d n   
yet "k t ,am]ica has be5 discov]$4  ,?is
 is a cont95t ( spiritual ne$4 ,! ,roman
 ,ca?olic ,*ur* has be5 a mis]able      
failure4 ,ne>ly #g1jjj1jjj ( p 9 ,s\?   
,am]ica /ill adh]e1 m or less op5ly1 to 
! feti%isms ( _! ance/ors1 :ile p]haps  
d\ble t numb] live altoge!r beyond !    
rea* ( ,*ri/ian influ5ce1 ev5 if we take
 ! ^w ,*ri/ian 9 its wide/ mean+4       
,footnote3 ,report ( ,s5or ,f4 de       
,ca/ello ,! ,rev4 ,w4 ,b4 ,grubb1 a     
mission>y 9 ,p>aguay1 says3 ,! greate/  
unexplor$ region at pres5t kn[n on e>?  
is !re4 ,x conta9s1 z f> z we "k1 #cjj  
di/9ct ,indian nations1 speak+ #cjj     
di/9ct languages1 & numb]+ "s millions1 
all 9 ! d>ke/ hea!nism4 ,h4 ,w4 ,br[n1 9
 ,lat9 ,am]ica1 says1 ,!re is a pagan   
population ( f\r to five millions4 ,!n1 
) respect to ! ,roman ,ca?olic          
population1 ,rev4 ,t4 ,b4 ,wood1        

,,ll4,d41 9 ,prote/ant ,missions 9 ,s\? 
,am]ica1 says1 ,s\? ,am]ica is a pagan  
field1 prop]ly speak+4 ,its image-wor%ip
 is idolatry4 ,abom9ations are gross] & 
m univ]sal ?an among ,roman ,ca?olics 9 
,europe & ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 :]e          
,prote/antism has greatly modifi$       
,ca?olicism4 ,b x is worse (f ?an any   
o!r great pagan field 9 t x is dom9at$  
by a s+le mighty hi]>*y--! mightie/ kn[n
 9 hi/ory4 ,= c5turies prie/craft has _h
 ev]y?+ its own way all ov] ! cont95t1 &
 is n[ at la/ yield+ to outside         
pressure1 b ) desp]ate resi/ance4  ,s\? 
,am]ica has be5 = ne>ly f\r hundr$ ye>s 
"p ( ! p>i% ( ! ,pope4 ,9 contra/ ) x ! 
nor? ( ! ,new ,_w--,puritan1 prosp]\s1  
p[]ful1 progressive--pres5ts probably ! 
mo/ rem>kable evid5ce e>? af=ds ( !     
bless+s ( ,prote/antism1 :ile ! results 
( ,roman ,ca?olicism left to itself are 
writ l>ge 9 lett]s ( gloom across !     
prie/-ridd51 lax & sup]/iti\s ,s\?4 ,h] 
cities1 among ! gaye/ & grosse/ 9 ! _w1 
h] ecclesia/ics enorm\sly weal?y &      

/r5u\sly oppos$ to progress & lib]ty1   
,s\? ,am]ica groans "u ! tyranny ( a    
prie/hood :i*1 9 its highe/ =ms1 is     
unillum9$ by1 & incompet5t to prea*1 !  
gospel ( ,god's free gift2 & 9 its l[e/ 
is prov]bially & habitually drunk51     
extortionate & ignorant4 ,! fires ( h]  
unspeakable ,inquisition /ill burn 9 !  
he>ts ( h] rul+ cl]ics1 & al?\gh ! _s ( 
! age has 9 our n9ete5? c5tury trans=m$ 
all h] mon>*ies into free ,republics1   
religi\s intol]ance all b univ]sally    
prevails4 ,footnote3 ,gu9ess's ,romanism
 & ,re=mation4  ,prelates & prie/s1     
monks & nuns ex]t an influ5ce t is      
all-p]vad+4 ,william ,e4 ,curtis1 ,unit$
 ,/ates ,commission] to ,s\? ,am]ica1   
wrote3 ,"o-f\r? ( all ! prop]ty belongs 
to ! bi%op4 ,!re is a ,ca?olic *ur* = e 
#aej inhabitants4 ,t5 p] c5t4 ( !       
population are prie/s1 monks or nuns1 & 
#bgb out ( ! #cfe days ( ! ye> are      
obs]v$ z fa/ or fea/ days4 ,! prie/s    
control ! gov]nm5t & rule ! c\ntry z    
absolutely z if ! ,pope 7 its k+4 ,z a  

result1 #ge p] c5t4 ( ! *ildr5 born are 
illegitimate1 & ! social & political    
condition pres5ts a picture ( ! d>k     
ages4 ,x is said t1 9 "o t[n1 e f\r?    
p]son y meet is a prie/ or a nun1 or an 
ecclesia/ic ( "s sort4  ,yet1 ) all ?is 
to battle aga9/1 ! ,*ri/ian mission>y is
 mak+ 8 influ5ce felt4  ,la ,razon1 an  
important newspap] ( ,trujillo1 9 a     
rec5t issue says3 ,9 homage to tru?1 we 
make kn[n ) pleasure t ! m9i/]s (       
,prote/antism h b5efit$ ?is t[n m 9 "o  
ye> ?an all ! prie/s & fri>s ( ! ,papal 
sect h done 9 ?ree c5turies4  ,la/ ye>1 
writes ,mr4 ,milne1 ( ! ,am]ican ,bible 
,society1 "o ( our colporteurs 9        
,ayacu*o _h to make 8 escape by ! ro( ( 
a h\se :]e he 0 /ay+1 f a mob (         
half-ca/es1 l$ on by a fri>4 ,f9d+ _!   
prey _h escap$1 !y took 8 clo!s & sev]al
 boxes ( ,bibles to ! plaza ( ! city &  
burnt !m4  ,x 0 n su* a go+-back z !    
outside _w ?\ght1 b1 oh1 x 0 a deeply   
significant "o1 :5 rec5tly ! lead+ m5 ( 
! ,republic ( ,guatemala met toge!r &   

solemnly ?rew ov] ! religion ( _! fa!rs1
 :i*1 dur+ #djj ye>s ( practice1 _h     
fail$ to uplift1 & re-e/abli%$ ! old    
paganism ( cultur$ ,rome4 ,s s]i\s 0 ?is
 /ep t ! ,palace ( ,m9]va1 ! goddess (  
trade1 is engrav$ on ! late/ issue (    
,guatemalan po/age /amps4 ,believ+ t !  
few ,prote/ants 9 ! ,republic are       
responsible = ! reaction1 ! ,ar*bi%op ( 
,guatemala has promis$ to grant "o      
hundr$ days' indulg5ce to ^? :o w pray =
 ! ov]?r[ ( ,prote/antism 9 t c\ntry4   
,romanism is n ,*ri/ianity1 s ! few     
,*ri/ian work]s are fight+ aga9/        
trem5d\s odds4 ,:at %all ! h>ve/ be8    
,,"p ,i4  ,,! ,,arg5t9e ,,republic  ,!  
c\ntry to :i* ! au?or fir/ w5t z a      
self-support+ mission>y 9 ! ye> #ahhi4  
,& ,nature1 ! old nurse1 took      ,!   
*ild ^u h] knee1      ,say+1 ,"h is a   
/ory book      ,?y ,fa!r ha? writt5 =   
!e4       ,come1 w&] ) me1 %e said1     
,into regions yet untrod1      ,& read  
:at is /ill unread      ,9 ! manuscripts
 ( ,god4       ,& he w&]$ away & away   

,) ,nature1 ! de> old nurse1      ,:o   
sung to him night & day      ,! rhymes (
 ! univ]se4            --,longfell[4    
,,! ,,arg5t9e ,,republic  ,! ,arg5t9e   
,republic has an area ( "o & a qu>t]    
million squ>e miles4 ,x is #b1fjj miles 
f nor? to s\?1 & #ejj miles at its wide/
 "p4 ,x is twelve times ! size ( ,great 
,brita94 ,al?\gh ! population ( ! c\ntry
 is ab\t sev5 millions1 only "o p] c5t1 
( its cultivable area is n[ occupi$1 yet
 ,arg5t9a has an incomp>able climate4   
,x is ess5tially a cattle c\ntry4 ,%e is
 said to surpass any o!r nation 9 h]    
numb]s ( live /ock4 ,! ,bovril ,co4     
alone kills #ajj1jjj a ye>4 ,on its     
broad pla9s !re are e/&as1 or cattle    
ran*es1 ( fifty & "o hundr$ ?\s& acres 9
 ext5t1 & on ^! cattle1 horses & %eep   
are h]d$ 9 millions4 ,arg5t9a has ov]   
tw5ty-n9e million cattle1 sev5ty-sev5   
million %eep1 sev5 & a half million     
horses1 five & a half million mules1 a  
qu>t]-million ( donkeys1 & ne>ly ?ree   
million sw9e & ?ree million goats4 ,f\r 

billion doll>s ( ,briti% capital are    
inve/$ 9 ! c\ntry4  ,arg5t9a has sixte5 
?\s& miles ( railway4 ,?is has be5      
comp>atively *eap to build4 ,on ! flat  
prairie l&s ! rails are laid1 & !re is a
 l5g? ( "o hundr$ & sev5ty-five miles   
)\t a s+le curve4  ,?ree hundr$ & fifty 
?\s& squ>e miles ( ?is prairie is       
specially adapt$ to ! gr[+ ( gra94 ,9   
#aijh-i ! yield ( :eat 0 #d1ibj1jjj     
tons4 ,arg5t9a has export$ ov] ?ree     
million tons ( :eat1 ov] ?ree million   
tons ( corn1 & "o million tons ( l9se$1 
9 "o ye>1 :ile h] fl\r mills c turn out 
#gjj1jjj tons ( fl\r a ye>4 ,footnote3  
,hir/'s ,arg5t9a1 #aiaj4  ,x is a       
delight (t5 met ) !re to look on a field
 ( tw5ty squ>e miles1 ) ! gold5 e>s /&+ 
ev5 & close toge!r1 & n a we$ nor a /ump
 ( a tree nor a /one z big z a man's fi/
 to be se5 or f\nd 9 ! :ole area4  ,to  
plant & h>ve/ ?is imm5se yield ! till]s 
( ! gr\nd b\ght n9e million doll>s ( f>m
 implem5ts 9 #aijh4 ,arg5t9a's record 9 
mat]ial progress rivals ,japan's4       

,arg5t9a a/oni%$ ! _w by conduct+1 9    
#aijf1 a trade valu$ at five hundr$ &   
sixty million doll>s1 buy+ & sell+ m 9 !
 m>kets ( =eign nations ?an ,japan1 ) a 
population ( =ty millions1 & ,*9a1 )    
?ree hundr$ millions4 ,footnote3 ,john  
,b>rett1 9 ,munsey's ,magaz9e  ,to ?is  
,l& ( ,promise !re is a l>ge            
immigration4 ,ne>ly ?ree hundr$ ?\s& h  
ent]$ 9 "o s+le ye>4 ,ab\t two hundr$   
?\s& h be5 go+ to ,bu5os ,ayres1 !      
capital1 alone1 b 9 #aijh ne>ly five    
hundr$ ?\s& l&$ !re4 ,footnote3 ,despite
 ! ,gov]nm5t's ef=ts1 emigration f ,spa9
 to ,s\? ,am]ica takes al>m+            
proportions4 ,9 "s di/ricts ! m5 ( !    
work+ classes h dep>t$ 9 a body4 ,9     
c]ta9 villages 9 ! neighborhood ( ,cadiz
 !re arc :ole /reets ( des]t$           
h\ses4-,spani% ,press4 ,9 ,belgium #bbj 
p are cr[d$ into ! t]ritory occupi$ by  
"o p]son 9 ,arg5t9a1 s yet !re is room4 
,alb]t ,hale says3 ,x is und5iable t    
,arg5t9a c give lodgm5t to #ajj1jjj1jjj 
p1 & c furni% n\ri%m5t1 at a rem>kably  

*eap rate1 = z _m m1 :5 h] :ole area is 
utiliz$4  ,arg5t9a's s*ools &           
univ]sities are ! be/ 9 ! ,spani%-speak+
 _w4 ,9 ,bu5os ,ayres y w f9d "s ( !    
f9e/ s*ool build+s 9 ! _w1 :ile #d1jjj  
/ud5ts att5d "o univ]sity4  ,bu5os      
,ayres1 f\nd$ 9 #aehj1 is to-day ! l>ge/
 city 9 ! _w s\? ( ! equator1 & is "o ( 
! ri*e/ & mo/ beautiful places ( ! _w4  
,! broad prairies ar\nd ! city h made ! 
p ! ri*e/ on e>?4  ,kev4 ,john ,f4      
,?ompson1 = =ty-five ye>s a resid5t ( t 
c\ntry1 summ>izes its *>act]i/ics 9 !   
foll[+ p>agraph3 ,arg5t9a is a l& (     
pl5ty2 pl5ty ( room & pl5ty ( food4 ,if 
! actual population 7 divid$ into       
families ( t5 p]sons1 ea* w\ld h a f>m (
 eight squ>e miles1 ) t5 horses1        
fifty-f\r c[s1 & "o hundr$ & eighty-six 
%eep1 & aft] !y _h eat5 _! fill ( bread 
!y w\ld h half a ton ( :eat & corn to   
sell or s5d to ! hungry nations4        
,,*apt] ,i4  ,,bu5os ,,ayres ,,9 #ahhi4 
,9 ! ye> #ahhi1 aft] five weeks ( ocean 
toss+1 ! /eam] on :i* ,i 0 a pass5g]    

an*or$ 9 ! ,riv] ,plate1 (f ,bu5os      
,ayres4 ,no?+ b wat] & sky 0 to be se51 
= ! coa/ 0 yet tw5ty miles away1 b !    
riv] 0 too %all[ = ! /eam] to get ne>]4 
,l>ge tugboats came out to u1 & pass5g]s
 & baggage 7 tran%ipp$ into !m1 & we    
/eam$ t5 miles ne>] ! /ill invisible    
city4 ,!re small] tugs await$ u & we 7  
aga9 tran%ipp$4 ,sail+ once m t[>d ! l&1
 we soon caught sight ( ! ,arg5t9e      
capital1 b be=e we c\ld sail ne>] ! tugs
 gr\nd$4 ,!re we 7 cr[d$ into           
flat-bottom$1 lug-sail$ boats = a ?ird  
/age ( our l&w>d j\rney4 ,^! boats      
convey$ u to )9 a mile ( ! city1 :5     
c>ts1 drawn by five horses1 met u 9 !   
surf & drew u on to ! wet1 %+ly bea*4   
,!re ab\t tw5ty m5 /ood1 ready to c>ry !
 females on _! backs on to ! dry1 s&y   
%ore1 :]e 0 ! cu/oms h\se4 ,! population
 ( ! city we !n ent]$ 0 ab\t six hundr$ 
?\s& s\ls4  ,aft] *ang+ ! little gold ,i
 c>ri$ = ! greasy pap] curr5cy ( !      
c\ntry1 ,i />t$ out 9 se>* ( some?+ to  
eat4 ,ev5tually ,i f\nd myself be=e a   

sub/antial meal4 ,at a table 9 front (  
me sat a ,scotsman f ! same vessel4 ,he 
_h arriv$ be=e me 7,scotsm5 say !y are  
always be=e ! ,engli%m57 & 0 dev\r+ "p (
 a leg ( mutton4 ,?is1 he told me1 he _h
 procur$1 to ! great amusem5t (         
,boniface1 by go+ d[n on all f\rs &     
baa-+ l ! %eep ( 8 native hills4 ,_h he 
wait$ until ,i arriv$ he might h fea/$  
on lamb1 = my voice 0 n s gruff z 84 ,he
 _h unconsci\sly ask$ = an old %eep4 ,i 
?9k ! ,highl&] 9 t in/ance regrett$ t he
 _h prec$$ ! ,engli%man4  ,h[ %all ,i   
describe ! metropolis ( ! ,arg5t9e1 )   
its "o-/ori$1 flat-ro($ h\ses1 ea* )    
grat$ w9d[s & c5tre patio8 ,"s ( ! poor]
 inhabitants raise f[ls on ! ro(1 :i*   
gives ! h\se a b>ny>d appe>ance1 :ile ! 
iron-b>r$ w9d[s bel[ /rongly sugge/ a   
prison4 ,/range yet attractive dwell+s  
!y are1 lime-wa%$ 9 v>i\s colors1 !     
favorite %ades seem+ to be p9k & bottle 
gre54 ,fires are n us$ except = cook+   
purposes1 & ! little smoke !y give out  
is quickly disp]s$ by ! breezes f !     

sixty-mile-wide riv] on :i* ! city /&s4 
,! ,bu5os ,ayres ( #ahhi 0 a /range     
place1 ) its long1 n>r[ /reets1 its     
peculi> /ores & _m-tongu$ inhabitants4  
,!re is ! d>k-sk9n$ policeman at ! corn]
 ( ea* block sitt+ sil5tly on 8 horse1  
or gallop+ d[n ! cobbl$ /reet at ! s\nd 
( "s revolv]1 :i* g5]ally tells ( a life
 gone out4 ,arriv+ on ! sc5e he (t5 f9ds
 ! culprit fl[n4 ,if he succe$s 9 rid+  
him d[n 7an action he scruples n to d71 
he1 ) great %[1 & at ! sword's po9t1    
conducts him to ! ne>e/ police /ation4  
,un=tunately he (t5 *ooses ! quiet side 
/reets1 :]e 8 prison] may h a *ance to  
buy 8 fre$om4 ,if he pays a few doll>s1 
! poor vigilante is p]fectly will+ to   
lose him1 aft] mak+ sometimes ! pret5ce 
( a /ruggle to bl9d ! look]s-on1 if !re 
be any curi\s en\gh to int]e/ !mselves4 
,?is man 9 khaki is (t5 ! t]ror ( !     
innoc5t1 ! laugh+-/ock ( ! guilty4 ,!   
poor man or ! =eign sailor1 if he /agg] 
ev] s little1 is sure to be run 94 ,!   
,arg5t9e law-keep] 787 is provid$ ) bo? 

sword & revolv]1 b receives small       
remun]ation1 & z 8 sal>y is (t5 t>dily  
paid him1 he augm5ts x 9 ?is way :5 he  
_c see a good opportunity ( turn+ burgl>
 or some?+ worse on 8 own acc\nt4 ,:5 he
 is l[ 9 funds he w acco/ ! /rang]1     
begg+ a  cig>ette1 or invit+ himself at 
y\r exp5se to ! ne>e/ cafe1 z ! day is s
 unusually hot4 ,aft] all1 we mu/ n     
blame him too mu*--8 sup]iors are f> f  
guiltless1 & he kn[s x4 ,:5 ,m9i/] ,toso
 took *>ge ( ! ,prov9cial portfolio (   
,f9ance1 he exclaim$1 ,c-o6 ,todos van  
rob&o m5os yo6 7,ev]ybody is robb+ "h   
except ,i47 ,x is public news t         
,presid5t ,celman c>ri$ away to 8       
private resid5ce 9 ! c\ntry a mo/       
beautiful & exp5sive bronze f\nta9      
pres5t$ by ! inhabitants ( ! city to    
adorn ! pr9cipal plaza4 ,footnote3      
,public squ>e4 ,! presid5t is elect$ by 
! p = a t]m ( ?ree ye>s1 & inv>iably    
retires a ri* man1 h[ev] poor he may h  
be5 :5 ent]+ on 8 (fice4 ,! laws ( !    
c\ntry may be describ$ z model &        

,*ri/ian1 b ! c>ry+ out ( !m is a v     
diff]5t matt]4  ,"s ( ! laws are        
excell5t & wor?y ( our imitation1 su* z1
 = example1 ! "o :i* decrees t ba*elors 
%all be tax$4 ,civil elections are held 
on ,sundays1 ! vot+ places be+ ,roman   
,ca?olic *ur*es4  ,bo? po/m5 & telegraph
 boys deliv] on horseback1 b su* is !   
lax cu/om t ev]y?+ w d to-morr[4 ,t     
fatal ^w is ! fir/ ! /rang]             
le>ns--maana4  ,comp>atively few p walk 
! /reets4 ,no city 9 ! _w ( equal size &
 population c comp>e ) ,bu5os ,ayres = !
 numb] & ext5t ( its tramways4          
,footnote3 ,turn]'s ,arg5t9a4 ,a writ] 9
 ! ,f9ancial ,news says3 ,! proportion (
 ! population :o daily use /reet-c>s is 
sixty-six times great] 9 ,bu5os ,ayres  
?an 9 ! ,unit$ ,k+dom4  ,?is ,mod]n     
,a!ns1 z ! ,arg5t9es love to t]m _!     
city1 has a beautiful climate4 ,= p]haps
 ?ree hundr$ days out ( e ye> !re is a  
sky above z blue z 0 ev] se5 9 ,naples4 
,! natives eat only twice a day--at     
#aj4cj a4m41 & at #g p4m4--! common     

edibles co/+ b little4 ,i c\ld write mu*
 ( ,bu5os ,ayres1 ) its c>nic]ias1 :]e a
 leg ( mutton may be b\ght = #bj cts41  
or a brace ( turkeys = #dj cts42 its    
almac5es1 :]e "o may buy a p\nd ( sug>  
or a y>d ( cotton1 a measure ( *>coal   
7coal is !re unkn[n7 or a l>ge sombr]o1 
a package ( tobacco 7leaves ov] two feet
 long7 or a pair ( :ite hemp-sol$ %oes =
 y\r feet--all at ! same c\nt]4 ,!      
cu/om] may fur!r obta9 a bottle ( w9e or
 a bottle ( be] 7! latt] co/+ f\r times 
! price ( ! =m]7 f ! same assi/ant1 :o  
sells at diff]5t prices to diff]5t      
cu/om]s4  ,!re ! value ( money is       
con/antly *ang+1 & almo/ e day prices   
v>y4 ,:at to-day co/s #bj to-morr[ may  
be #ae1 or1 m likely1 #cj4 ,al?\gh "o   
hundr$ & sev5ty tons ( sug> are annually
 gr[n 9 ! c\ntry1 t luxury is decid$ly  
exp5sive4 ,i h paid f #ab cts4 to #cj   
cts4 a p\nd4 ,oatmeal1 ! ,scotsman's    
di%1 has co/ me up to #ej cts4 a p\nd4  
,com+ aga9 on to ! /reet y he> ! deaf5+ 
noises ( ! c[ horns bl[n by ! /reetc>   

driv]s1 or ! pescador %rilly invit+     
h\sekeep]s to buy ! repulsive-look+ r$  
fi%1 c>ri$ ov] 8 %\ld]1 slung on a ?ick 
bamboo4 ,p]haps y meet a begg> on       
horseback 7= !re wi%es are horses1 &    
begg>s d ride71 :o pite\sly :9es = help4
 ,?is /e$-rid+ frat]nity all use        
inv>iably ! same words3 ,por el amor de 
,dios dame un c5tavo6 7,= ! love ( ,god 
give me a c5t47 ,if y be/[ x1 he w call 
on 8 patron sa9t to bless y4 ,if y fail 
to assi/ him1 ! curses ( all ! sa9ts 9  
heav5 w fall on y\r impi\s head4 ,?is   
(t5 causes su* a %udd] 9 ! recipi5t t ,i
 h kn[n him to turn back to appease !   
wra? ( ! m5dicant1 & receive in/ead--a  
bless+4  ,x is n an uncommon sight to   
see a black-rob$ prie/ ) 8 h& on a boy's
 head giv+ him a b5$iction t he may be  
enabl$ to sell 8 newspap]s or lott]y    
tickets ) m cel]ity4  ,! ,national      
,lott]y is a great in/itution1 & hundr$s
 keep !mselves poor buy+ tickets4 ,9 "o 
ye> ! lott]y has realiz$ ! sum (        
#c1dji1adc4eg4 ,! ,gov]nm5t takes =ty p]

 c5t4 ( ?is1 & divides ! re/ betwe5 a   
numb] ( *>itable & religi\s             
organizations1 all1 ne$less to say1 be+ 
,roman ,ca?olic4 ,among/ ! names appe> !
 foll[+3 ,poor ,si/]s ( ,/4 ,joseph1    
,work%op ( ,our ,lady1 ,si/]s ( ,/4     
,an?ony1 etc4  ,little boo?s = ! sale ( 
lott]y tickets are erect$ 9 ! ve/ibules 
( "s ( ! *ur*es1 & ! ,gov]nm5t1 9 ?is   
way1 repays ! *ur*4  ,! gambl+ passion  
is "o ( ,arg5t9a's greate/ curses4      
,tickets are b\ght by all1 f ! ,s5ator  
d[n to ! newsboy :o v5tures 8 only      
doll>4  ,y meet ! wat]-sell] pass+ d[n !
 /reet ) 8 b>rel c>t1 drawn by ?ree or  
f\r horses ) t9kl+ bells1 disp5s+ wat]  
to cu/om]s at five c5ts a pail4 ,! poor]
 classes h no o!r means ( procur+ ?is   
preci\s liquid4 ,! wat] is kept 9 a     
corn] ( ! h\se 9 l>ge sun-bak$ j>s4 ,a  
peculi>ity ( ^! pots is t !y are n made 
to /& alone1 b h to be held up by       
some?+4  ,at e>ly morn+ & ev5+ ! milkman
 goes 8 r\nds on horseback4 ,! milk he  
c>ries 9 six long1 n>r[ cans1 l inv]t$  

sug>-loaves1 ?ree on ea* side ( 8       
raw-hide saddle1 he himself be+ p]*$    
betwe5 !m on a %eepsk94 ,9 "s cans he   
c>ries pure cream1 :i* ! jolt+ ( 8 horse
 soon conv]ts into butt]4 ,?is he lifts 
out ) 8 h&s to any :o c>e to buy4 ,aft] 
! addition ( a little salt1 & !         
subtraction ( a little butt]milk1 ?is   
manteca is excell5t4 ,aft] s]v+ y he w  
aga9 m\nt 8 horse1 b n until 8 h&s h be5
 well wip$ on its tail1 :i* almo/ t\*es 
! gr\nd4 ,! o!r cans ( ! le*]o conta9 a 
mixture kn[n to him alone4 ,i nev]      
analyz$ x1 b h rem>k$ a *alky sub/ance 9
 ! bottom ( my glass4 ,he does n pr(ess 
to sell pure milk2 t y c buy1 b1 (      
c\rse1 at a high] price1 f ! pure milk  
sell]4 ,9 ! cool ( ! aft]noon he w br+  
r\nd 8 c[s1 ) bells on _! necks & calves
 dragg+ beh9d4 ,! calves are ti$ to !   
mo!rs' tails1 & we> a muzzle4 ,at a %-h 
f ! sidewalk he /ops !m1 &1 /oop+ d[n1  
fills y\r pit*] accord+ to y\r money4 ,!
 c[s1 ?r\gh be+ born & br$ to a life 9 !
 /reets1 are g5]ally mis]able-look+     

bea/s4 ,/range to add1 ! "o milkman %oes
 8 c[s & ! o!r leaves 8 horse un%od4 ,x 
is n cu/om>y 9 ?is c\ntry = man's noble 
fri5d to we> m ?an 8 own natural ho(4 ,a
 visit to ! blacksmi? is ent]ta9+4 ,!   
smi?1 by means ( a %ort lasso1 deftly   
trips up ! animal1 &1 ) its legs        
securely la%$1 ! c[ mu/ lie on its back 
:ile he %oes its upturn$ ho(s4  ,_m &   
v>i$ are ! sc5es4 ,"o is /ruck by !     
numb] ( horses1 sev5 & eight (t5 be+    
yok$ to "o c>t1 :i* ev5 !n !y sometimes 
f9d difficult to draw4 ,"s ( ! /reets   
are v bad1 worse ?an our c\ntry lanes1 &
 fill$ ) deep ruts & dra9s1 into :i* !  
horses (t5 fall4 ,!re ! driv] w         
sometimes cruelly leave !m1 :51 aft] 8  
arm a*es 9 us+ ! :ip1 he f9ds ! animal  
_c rise4 ,= ! v]ie/ trifle ,i h kn[n m5 
to sma% ! poor dumb brute's eyes out ) !
 /ock ( ! :ip1 & ,i h be5 v ne> !       
,police ,/ation m ?an once :5 my        
righte\s blood compell$ me to int]f]e4  
,:]e1 oh1 :]e is ! ,society = !         
,prev5tion ( ,cruelty to ,animals8      

,surely no suff]+ creatures "u ! sun cry
 out l\d] = m]cy ?an ^? 9 ,arg5t9a8  ,z 
,i h said1 horses are left to die 9 !   
public /reets4 ,x has be5 my pa9ful duty
 to pass moan+ creatures ly+ helplessly 
9 ! road1 ) brok5 limbs1 "u a burn+ sun1
 suff]+ hung] & ?ir/1 = ?ree consecutive
 days1 be=e k9d dea?1 ! suff]]'s fri5d1 
releas$ !m4 ,look+ on su* sights1 see+ e
 /reet ur*9 ) co>se laugh & brutal je/  
jump on su* an animal's quiv]+ body1    
/uff its p>*$ m\? ) mud1 or poke /icks  
into its />+ eyes1 ,i h cri$ al\d at !  
inju/ice4 ,! policeman & ! pass]s-by h  
only laugh$ at me = my pa9s4  ,9 my     
exp]i5ces 9 ,s\? ,am]ica ,i f\nd cruelty
 to be a m>k$ feature ( ! p4 ,if ! fa!r 
?ru/s 8 dagg] into 8 enemy1 & ! "m1 9 h]
 fits ( rage1 /icks h] hairp9 into h]   
maid's body1 c x be wond]$ at if !      
*ildr5 inh]it cruel natures8 ,h[ (t5 h  
,i se5 a poor horse fall betwe5 ! %afts 
( "s load$ c>t ( bricks or s&6 ,nev]    
once h ,i se5 8 h>ness undone & will+   
h&s help him up1 z 9 o!r civiliz$ l&s4  

,no1 ! la%+ ( ! cruel :ip or ! knife's  
po9t is 8 only help4 ,if1 z "s religi\s 
writ]s h said1 ! horse w be a %>] (     
,p>adise along ) man1 8 ma/]1 !n ^? f   
,bu5os ,ayres w fe$ 9 /alls ( silv] & h 
_! w\nds heal$ by ! clov] ( et]nal      
k9dness4 ,god is ,love4  ,i h said !    
/reets are full ( holes4 ,9 ju/ice to ! 
au?orities ,i mu/ m5tion ! fact t       
sometimes1 especially at ! cross+s1 ^!  
are fill$ up4 ,to c>ry tru?fulness /ill 
fur!r1 h[ev]1 ,i mu/ /ate t m ?an once  
,i h kn[n !m bridg$ ov] ) ! putrefy+    
rema9s ( a horse 9 ! la/ /ages (        
decomposition4 ,i h se5 delicate ladies1
 attir$ 9 ,p>isian furbel[s1 lift _!    
da9ty skirts1 attempt ! cross+--& s9k 9 
a mass ( corruption1 full ( maggots4  ,9
 my description ( ,bu5os ,ayres ,i mu/ n
 omit to m5tion ! l>ge squ>e1 black1 op5
 he>ses s (t5 se5 rapidly drawn ?r\gh ! 
/reets1 ! driv] seem+ to travel z       
quickly z he c4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ! coa* is !
 c(f91 made ( :ite wood & cov]$ ) black 
mat]ial1 fa/5$ on ) brass nails4 ,ar\nd 

?is gruesome object sit ! relatives &   
fri5ds ( ! dep>t$ "o on _! j\rney to !  
*ac>ita1 or cemet]y1 "s six miles out f 
! c5tre ( ! city4 ,cemet]ies 9 ,spani%  
,am]ica are divid$ into ?ree enclosures4
 ,!re is ! cemet]y ( heav51 ! cemet]y ( 
purgatory1 & ! cemet]y ( hell4 ,!       
location ( ! s\l 9 ! future is ?us se5  
to be dep5d5t on its location by !      
prie/s "h4 ,! dead are buri$ on ! day ( 
_! dea?1 :5 possible1 or1 if n1 !n e>ly 
on ! foll[+ morn+2 b nev]1 ,i believe1  
on fea/ days4 ,^? p]iods are set ap>t = 
pleasure1 & on important sa9t days      
bann]s & flags ( all nations are hung   
across ! /reets1 or adorn ! ro(s ( !    
flat-topp$ h\ses1 :]e ! wa%+ is at o!r  
times dri$4  ,aft] att5d+ mass 9 ! e>ly 
morn+ on ^! days1 ! p give !mselves up  
to revelry & s9 at home1 or cr[d !      
/reet-c>s runn+ to ! p>ks & suburbs4 ,_m
 ) dep>t$ relatives 7& :o has none87 g  
to ! *ac>ita1 & = a few pesos b>ga9 ) ! 
black-rob$ prie/ wait+ !re1 to deliv] _!
 preci\s dead out ( ,purgatory4 ,if he  

s+s ! pray] ! co/ is d\ble1 b suppos$ to
 be also d\bly efficaci\s4 ,mo!rs d n   
always inspire filial respect 9 _!      
(fspr+1 = "o "y man decl>$ t he want$ to
 get 8 "m out ( ,purgatory be=e he w5t  
94  ,a ,bu5os ,ayres mission>y writes   
,!re are two l>ge cemet]ies "h4 ,f e>ly 
morn until late at night ! p cr[d into  
!m1 & ,i am told !re 7 #ajj1jjj at "o "t
 9 "o ( !m4 ,novemb] #a is a special day
 = releas+ ?\s&s ( s\ls out (           
,purgatory4 ,we pr9t$ ?\s&s ( tracts & !
 work]s />t$ out to di/ribute !m4 ,by t5
 o'clock six ( !m 7 9 jail1 hav+ be5    
giv5 into cu/ody by a 'holy fa!r4' ,!y 7
 deta9$ until six 9 ! ev5+ )\t food1 &  
!n 7 releas$ ?r\gh ! ef=ts ( a ,me?odi/ 
m9i/]4  ,! cate*isn reads3 ,att5d mass  
all ,sundays & ,fea/ days4 ,confess at  
lea/ once a ye>1 or (t5]1 if !re is any 
fe> ( dea?4 ,take ,sacram5t at ,ea/] "t4
 ,pay a t5? ( fir/-fruits to ,god's     
,*ur*4 ,! f\r? comm&m5t is cond5s$ into 
! words3 ,sanctify ! ,fea/ days4 ,f ?is 
x w be se5 t !re is great ne$ = mission 

"w4 ,( c\rse ,romanism 9 ?is & o!r      
cities is los+ its old grip ^u ! p1 &   
because ( ?is ! prie/ is putt+ =?       
sup]human ef=t to reta9 :at he has4 ,la 
,voz de la ,iglesia 7,! ,voice ( !      
,*ur*71 ! organ ( ! ,bi%op ( ,bu5os     
,ayres1 has lately publi%$ "s ( !       
/ronge/ articles we h ev] read4 ,a late 
article concludes3 ,"o ?+ only1 "o ?+3  
,,obey2 ,,obey ,,bl9dly4 ,comply ) h] 7!
 ,*ur*'s7 comm&s ) fai?ful loyalty4 ,if 
we d ?is1 x is impossible =             
,prote/antism to invade ! fl[]y camp ( !
 ,*ur*1 ,holy1 ,ca?olic1 ,apo/olic &    
,roman4  ,articles su* z ?is1 h[ev]1 & !
 circulation ( a tract by "o ( ! lead+  
*ur* presses1 are n calculat$ to help   
=w>d a los+ cause4 ,! tract ref]r$ to is
 entitl$1 ,lett] ( ,jesus ab\t ! ,drops 
( ,blood :i* ,he %$ :il/ ,he w5t to     
,calv>y4 ,y "k t ! soldi]s numb]$ #aej1 
tw5ty-five ( :om conduct$ me b\nd4 ,i   
receiv$ fifty bl[s on ! head & #ajh on !
 brea/4 ,i 0 pull$ by ! hair #bc times1 
& #cj p]sons spat 9 my face4 ,^? :o     

/ruck me on ! upp] "p ( ! body 7 #f1fff1
 & #ajj ,jews /ruck me on ! head4 ,i    
sigh$ #abe times4 ,! w\nds on ! head    
numb]$ #bj2 f ! cr[n ( ?orns1 #gb2 po9ts
 ( ?orns on ! =ehead1 #ajj4 ,! w\nds on 
! body 7 #ajj4 ,!re came out ( my body  
#bh1dcj drops ( blood4 ,?is lett]1 !    
tract /ates1 0 f\nd 9 ! ,holy ,sepul*re 
& is pres]v$ by 8 hol9ess ! ,pope4      
,intellig5t1 ?9k+ m5 c only smile at su*
 an utt] absurdity4  ,an ,e*oes f       
,arg5t9a extract reads3 ,n _m mon?s ago1
 ,arg5t9a 0 bless$ by ! ,pope4 ,note :at
 has happ5$ s9ce3--,! ,ar*bi%op1 :o 0 ! 
be>] ( ! bless+ & br\ght x f ,rome1 has 
s9ce di$ v sudd5ly2 we h _h a t]rible   
visitation ( heat suffocation1 hundr$s  
be+ attack$ & v _m dy+2 we h _h !       
bubonic pe/ 9 our mid/2 a bloody        
prov9cial revolution 9 ,entre ,rios2 &  
n[ at ! "t ( writ+ !re is an outbreak ( 
a s]i\s cattle disease1 & ,engl& has    
clos$ h] ports aga9/ ,arg5t9e live /ock4
 ,( c\rse1 we d n say t ^! calamities   
are ! result ( ! ,pope's bless+1 b we   

w\ld t ,ca?olics w\ld op5 _! eyes & see 
t x is a fact t :]eas ,prote/ant        
c\ntries1 ana!matiz$ by ! ,pope1 prosp]1
 ,ca?olic c\ntries :i* h be5 bless$ by  
him are 9 a lam5table condition4        
,,bu5os ,,ayres ,,at ,,! ,,pres5t ,,"t4 
,p]haps no city ( ! _w has gr[n &       
progress$ m dur+ ?is la/ decade ?an !   
city ( ,bu5os ,ayres4 ,to-day pass5g]s  
l& 9 ! c5tre ( ! city & /ep on ! mo/    
exp5sive sy/em ( artificial docks 9 all 
,am]ica1 repres5t+ an exp5diture (      
sev5ty million doll>s4  ,to ?is city !re
 is a l>ge emigration4 ,x has gr[n at ! 
rate ( #d1jjj adults a week1 ) a        
bir?rate ( #a1jjj a week add$4 ,!       
population is n[ fa/ climb+ up to #a    
#a-b millions ( inhabitants4 ,!re are   
#cjj1jjj ,italians1 #ajj1jjj ,spani>ds1 
a colony ( #bj1jjj ,briti%]s1 &1 (      
c\rse1 ,jews & o!r =eign]s 9 proportion4
 ,bu5os ,ayres is "o ( ! mo/            
cosmopolitan cities ( ! _w4 ,!re are    
#ahi newspap]s1 pr9t$ 9 almo/ e language
 ( ! globe4 ,probably ! only ,syrian    

newspap] 9 ,am]ica1 ,! ,assudk1 is issu$
 9 ?is city4 ,to keep pace ) ! ru% (    
newcom]s has necessitat$ ! build+ (     
#cj1jjj h\ses e ye>4 ,!re is "h ! f9e/ &
 co/lie/ /ructure ev] built1 us$        
exclusively by "o newspap]1 ! home ( ,la
 ,pr5sa2 ! mo/ magnific5t op]a h\se ( ! 
we/]n hemisph]e1 erect$ by ! gov]nm5t at
 ! co/ ( t5 million doll>s2 "o ( ! l>ge/
 banks 9 ! _w1 & ! h&some/ & l>ge/      
clubh\se 9 ! _w4 ,footnote3 ,john       
,b>rett1 ,9 ,munsey's ,magaz9e4 ,!      
entrance fee to ?is club is #a1ejj4 ,!  
,y4,m4,c4,a4 is n[ erect+ a commodi\s   
build+1 = :i* #bjj1jjj has already be5  
rais$1 & !re is a ,y4,w4,c4,a41 ) a     
memb]%ip ( five hundr$4 ,dr4 ,cl>k1 9 ,!
 ,cont95t ( ,opportunity1 says1 ,m      
millionaires live 9 ,bu5os ,ayres ?an 9 
any o!r city ( ! _w ( its size4 ,!      
proportion ( well-clo!d1 well-f$ p is   
great] ?an 9 ,am]ican cities1 ! slums   
are small]1 & ! subm]g$ classes less 9  
proportion4 ,! con/ant movem5t (        
c>riages & automobiles "h q surpasses t 

( ,fif? ,av5ue4 ,! /reet c>s are ( !    
late/ & mo/ improv$ electric types1     
equal to any se5 9 ,new ,york or        
,london1 & seat "o hundr$ p1 inside &   
out4 ,besides ^! !re is an excell5t     
s]vice ( motor cabs1 & tubes are be+    
comm5c$4 ,level cross+s = ! /eam roads  
are n p]mitt$ 9 ! city limits1 s all    
tra9s run ov] or "u ! /reets4  ,! ,po/  
,(fice h&les #dj1jjj1jjj pieces ( mail &
 #abe1jjj p>cel po/ packages a mon?4 ,! 
city has #a1bji automobiles1 #bg !atres 
& #ej mov+ picture %[s4 ,five ?\s&      
vessels ent] ! port ( ,bu5os ,ayres e   
ye>1 & ! export ( meat 9 #aiaj 0 valu$  
at #ca1jjj1jjj4 ,no o!r section ( ! _w  
%[s su* gr[?4 ,footnote3 ,c4 ,h4        
,furlong1 9 ,! ,_w's ,"w4  ,! city1 once
 s unheal?y1 is n[1 ?r\gh prop] dra9age1
 ! second heal?ie/ l>ge city ( ! _w4 ,! 
/reets1 z ,i fir/ saw !m1 7 r\ghly      
cobbl$1 n[ !y are asphalt pav$1 & made  
into beautiful av5ues1 su* z w\ld grace 
any capital ( ! _w4 ,av5ida de ,mayo1   
cut "r ?r\gh ! old city1 is fam$ z be+  

"o ( ! mo/ co/ly & beautiful av5ues ( ! 
_w4  ,on ^? /reets ! eque/rian milkman  
is no long] se54 ,beautiful sanit>y     
:ite-til$ tambos1 :]e pure milk & butt] 
are sold1 h tak5 8 place4 ,! old has be5
 trans=m$ & ,,progress is writt5        
ev]y:]e4     ,,*apt] ,,ii4              
,,revolution4   ,s\? ,am]ica1 ( all l&s1
 has be5 mo/ torn asund] by w>4         
,revolutions may be numb]$ by hundr$s1 &
 ! slaught] has be5 incr$ible4 ,ev5 s9ce
 ! op5+ ( ! ye> #aijj1 ?irty ?\s&       
,colombians h be5 sla9 & !re h be5 doz5s
 ( revolutions4 ,d>w9 relates ! fact t 9
 #ahcb ,arg5t9a und]w5t fifte5 *anges ( 
gov]nm5t 9 n9e mon?s1 ow+ to int]nal    
/rife1 & s9ce !n ,arg5t9a has _h its    
full %>e4  ,dur+ my resid5ce 9 ,bu5os   
,ayres !re occurr$ "o ( ^? disa/r\s     
revolutions :i* h f "t to "t %ak5 ! :ole
 ,republic4 ,! ,presid5t1 ,don ,ju>ez   
,celman1 _h long be5 unpopul>1 &1 ! mass
 ( ! p be+ aga9/ him1 z well z ne>ly    
half ( ! /&+ army1 & all ! fleet !n     
an*or$ 9 ! riv]1 ! "t 0 consid]$ ripe to

 /rike a bl[4  ,on ! morn+ ( ,july #bf1 
#ahij1 ! sun rose ^u ?\s&s ( /]n-look+  
m5 biv\ack+ 9 ! /reets & public squ>es (
 ! city4 ,! revolution _h comm5c$1 & 0  
l$ by "o ( ! mo/ di/+ui%$ ,arg5t9e      
citiz5s1 ,g5]al ,joseph ,m>y ,campos4 ,!
 battle-cry ( ^! m5 0 ,sangre6 ,sangre6 
,footnote3 ,blood6 ,blood6 ,! w> fi5d   
/alk$ =?4 ,tr5*es 7 dug 9 ! /reets4     
,guns 7 plac$ at e po9t ( vantage4 ,m5  
m\nt$ _! /e$s ) a c>eless laugh1 :ile ! 
ris+ sun %one on _! burni%$ arms1 s soon
 to be /a9$ ) blood4 ,battalions ( m5   
m>*$ up & d[n ! /reets to ! s\nd (      
m>tial music1 & ! l[1 flat-ro($ h\setops
 7 quickly fill$ ) %>p%oot]s4  ,!       
,gov]nm5t ,h\se & resid5ce ( ! ,presid5t
 0 gu>d$ 9 all directions by ! #bnd     
,battalion ( ! ,l9e1 ! firem5 & a       
deta*m5t ( police1 b on ! riv] side 7   
f\r gunboats ( ! revolution>y p>ty4  ,! 
av]age ,s\? ,am]ican is a man ( quick   
impulses & little ?\ght4 ,! fir/ %ot    
fir$ by ! ,gov]nm5t troops 0 ! signal = 
a fusilade t lit]ally %ook ! city4      

,rifle %ots crack$1 big guns ro>$1 &    
%ells scream+ ov]head desc5d$ 9 all     
directions1 c>ry+ dea? & de/ruction4    
,/reet-c>s1 wagons & cabs 7 ov]turn$ to 
=m b>ricades4 ,9 ! n>r[1 /raight /reets 
! c>nage 0 fe>ful1 & blood soon trickl$ 
d[n ! wat]c\rses & dy$ ! pavem5ts4 ,t   
morn+ ! sun _h ris5 = ! la/ "t ^u six   
hundr$ /rong m52 x set ^u _! mangl$     
rema9s4 ,six hundr$ s\ls6 ,! ,arg5t9e   
soldi] kn[s little ( ! sci5ce ( hide &  
seek w>f>e4 ,:5 he goes =? to battle1 x 
is to fight--or die4 ,( ! future life he
 un=tunately ?9ks little1 & ( ,*ri/1 !  
_w's ,r$eem]1 he seldom or nev] he>s4 ,!
 ,roman ,ca?olic *apla9 mumbles a few   
,lat9 pray]s to !m at times1 b z ! k (  
^! resos does n seem to improve !       
prie/'s life1 ! m5 pref] to rema9 9     
ignorance4  ,! av]age ,arg5t9e soldi] is
 a man ( little intellig5ce4 ,! regim5ts
 are compos$ ( ,patagonian ,indians or  
semi-civiliz$ ,gu>anis1 mix$ ) all      
classes ( crim9als f ! /ate prisons4    
,nature has impr9t$ ^u !m ! unmi/akable 

m>ks ( ! savage--sull51 /upid f]ocity1  
indiff]5ce to pa91 be/ial in/9cts4 ,z = 
8 fight+ qualities1 !y m resemble ^? ( !
 tig] ?an ( ! cool1 brave & tra9$       
soldi]4 ,:5 8 blood is r\s$1 fight+ is )
 him a matt] ( bl9d & indiscrim9ate     
c>nage ( fri5d or foe4 ,a m             
villa9\s-look+ horde x w\ld be difficult
 to f9d 9 any army4 ,! spl5did          
acc\trem5ts ( ! g5]als & sup]ior (fic]s1
 & ! glitt]+ equipm5ts ( _! *>g]s1 (f] a
 vivid contra/ to ! mean & dirty uni=ms 
( ! troops4  ,dur+ ! day ! :ole t]ritory
 ( ! ,republic 0 decl>$ to be 9 a /ate (
 siege4 ,bus9ess 0 at a complete /&/ill4
 ,! /ores 7 all clos$1 & _m ( !m =tifi$ 
) ! fir/ means t came to h&4            
,mattresses1 doors1 furniture1 ev]y?+ 0 
requisition$1 & ! greate/ excitem5t     
prevail$ 9 comm]cial circles g5]ally4   
,all ! gun-mak]s' %ops _h soon be5 cle>$
 ( _! cont5ts1 :i* 7 9 ! h&s ( ! adh]5ts
 ( ! revolution4  ,t ev5+ ! news ( !    
insurrection 0 fla%$ by ,reut]'s to all 
p>ts ( ! civiliz$ _w4 ,! foll[+ appe>$ 9

 "o ( ! l>ge/ ,briti% dailies3  ,,bu5os 
,,ayres1 ,july #bg1 #e4dj p4m4  ,!      
fight+ 9 ! /reets betwe5 ! ,gov]nm5t    
troops & ! insurg5ts has be5 ( ! mo/    
desp]ate "*4  ,! =ces ( ! ,gov]nm5t h   
be5 defeat$4  ,! losses 9 kill$ & w\nd$ 
are e/imat$ at #a1jjj4  ,! fleet is 9   
favor ( ! ,revolutioni/s4  ,gov]nm5t    
h\se & ! b>racks occupi$ by ! ,gov]nm5t 
troops h be5 bomb>d$ by ! insurg5t      
artill]y4  ,t night z ,i w5t 9 & out ( !
 squads ( m5 on ! revolution>y side1    
seek+ to d "s acts ( m]cy1 ,i saw _m    
/range & awful sights4 ,!re 7 w\nd$ m5  
:o refus$ to leave ! field1 al?\gh ! ra9
 p\r$4 ,o!rs 7 employ$ 9 cook+ or       
rav5\sly eat+ ! dead horses :i* /rew$ ! 
/reets4 ,"s 7 ly+ d[n to dr9k ! wat]    
fl[+ 9 ! gutt]s1 :i* wat] 0 (t5 t+$ )   
human blood1 = ! ra9 0 by ?is "t wa%+   
away _m ( ! d>k spots 9 ! /reets4 ,o!rs 
lay coil$ up 9 heaps "u _! soak+ pon*os1
 try+ to sleep a little1 _! arms /ack$  
close at h&4 ,!re 7 m5 to all appe>ances
 fa/ asleep1 /&+ ) _! arms 9 ! re9s ( ! 

horses :i* _h borne !m safely ?r\gh !   
lead5 hail ( t day ( t]ror4 ,num]\s 7 ! 
jokes & l\d 0 ! co>se laught] ( _m :o   
next day w\ld be ly+ /iff 9 dea?1 b     
little ?\ght seem$ to be exp5d$ on t    
possibility4  ,m5 loot$ ! /ores & fea/$1
 or wantonly de/roy$ valuables !y _h no 
use =4 ,none /opp$ ?is havoc1 = ! (fic]s
 7 qu>t]$ 9 ! adjac5t h\ses1 !mselves   
hold+ high revelry4 ,lawless hordes     
visit$ ! police (fices1 ?rew _!         
furniture into ! /reets1 tore to %r$s   
all ! books1 pap]s & records f\nd1 &    
creat$ g5]al havoc4 ,!y gorg$ & curs$1  
us+ swords = knives1 & lay d[n 9 ! soak+
 /reets or lean$ aga9/ ! guns to smoke !
 inevitable cig>illo4 ,a few look$ up at
 ! gild$ keys ( ,/4 ,pet] adorn+ ! front
 ( ! ca!dral1 p]haps wond]+ if !y w\ld  
be us$ to admit !m to a bett] _w4  ,next
 day1 z ,i salli$ =? to ! dismal duty ( 
c>+ = ! dead & dy+1 ! guns ( ! ,arg5t9e 
fleet ,footnote3 ,briti%-built vessels (
 ! late/ & mo/ approv$ types4 9 ! riv]  
opposite ! city blaz$ =? ^u ! qu>t] held

 by ! ,gov]nm5t's loyal troops4 ,"o     
hundr$ & fifty-f\r %ots 7 fir$1 two ( ! 
l>ge/ gunboats fir+ ?ree-hundr$ &       
six-hundr$ p\nd]s4 ,soon e squ>e 0 a    
%ambles1 & ! mud ooz$ ) blood4 ,! ,bu5os
 ,ayres ,/&>d1 describ+ t day ( fi]ce   
w>f>e1 /at$3  ,at dawn1 ! ,national     
troops1 qu>t]$ 9 ! ,plaza ,lib]tad1 made
 ano!r desp]ate attack on !             
,revolution>y positions 9 ! ,plaza      
,lavalle4 ,! ,krupp guns1 mitrailleuses 
& gatl+s w5t (f at a t]rible rate1 &    
volleys succe$$ ea* o!r1 second =       
second1 f five 9 ! morn+ till half-pa/  
n9e4 ,! "w ( dea? 0 fe>ful1 & hundr$s ( 
spectators 7 %ot d[n z !y wat*$ f _!    
balconies or h\setops4 ,cannon balls    
riddl$ all ! h\ses ne> ! ,c9co ,esqu9as4
 ,9 ! attack on ! ,plaza ,lavalle1 ?ree 
hundr$ m5 mu/ h fall54  ,illu/ration    
,at t5 a4m4 ! :ite flag ( truce 0 hoi/$ 
on bo? sides1 & ! dismal "w ( collect+ !
 dead & w\nd$ began4 ,! ambulances ( !  
,asi/5cia ,publica1 ! c>s ( ! tram      
companies & ! wagons ( ! ,r$ ,cross 7   

busily engag$ all day 9 c>ry+ away !    
dead4 ,x is e/imat$ t 9 ! ,plaza        
,lavalle above #fjj m5 7 w\nd$ & #cjj   
kill$4 ,consid]+ t ! ,revolutioni/s     
def5d$ an entr5*$ position1 :il/ !      
,national troops attack$1 we may imag9e 
t ! losses ( ! latt] 7 enorm\s4  ,g5]al 
,lavalle1 comm&]-9-*ief ( ! ,national   
=ces1 gave ord]s = a l>ge numb] ( c(f9s1
 :i* 7 n deliv]$1 z ! und]tak] wi%$ to  
be paid ca%4 ,x is to be suppos$ t ^!   
c(f9s 7 = ! dead (fic]s4  ,:5 ! :ite    
flags 7 run up1 ,dr4 ,del ,valle1       
,s5ator ( ! ,nation1 s5t1 9 ! "n ( !    
,revolution>y ,committee1 an ultimatum  
to ! ,national ,gov]nm5t1 dem&+ !       
imm$iate dismissal ( ! ,presid5t ( !    
,republic & dissolution ( ,congress4    
,lat] on x 0 kn[n t bo? p>ties _h agre$ 
on an armi/ice1 to la/ till mid-day on  
,monday4  ,( ! ?ird day's sangu9>y      
fight+1 ! ,/&>d wrote3  ,! ,plaza       
,lib]tad 0 tak5 by ,g5]al ,lavalle at ! 
head ( ! ,national troops "u ! mo/      
t]rible fire1 b ! regim5ts held well    

toge!r & c>ri$ ! position 9 a mo/       
gallant mann]1 confirm+ ! reputation (  
indomitable valor t ! ,arg5t9e troops   
won at ! tr5*es ( ,curupayti4 ,our      
read]s may imag9e ! fire !y suff]$ 9 !  
/raight /reets swept by ,krupp guns1    
gatl+s & mitrailleuses1 :ile e h\setop 0
 a =tress :5ce a deadly fire 0 p\r$ on !
 heads ( ! soldi]s4 ,let anybody take ! 
tr\ble to visit ! ,calles ,footnote3    
,/reets ,c]rito1 ,lib]tad & ,talcahuano1
 ! vic9ity ( ! ,plazas ,p>que &         
,lavalle1 & he w be /agg]$ to see h[ all
 ! h\ses h be5 riddl$ by mitrailleuses &
 rifle bullets4 ,! passage ( cannon     
balls is m>k$ on ! iron frames ( w9d[s1 
sma%$ frames & demoli%$ balconies ( !   
h\ses4  ,! ,miro ,palace1 9 ! ,plaza    
,p>que1 is a sorry picture ( wreckage3 !
 'mirador' is knock$ to pieces by balls 
& %ells2 ! walls are riddl$ on e side1 &
 ne>ly all ! beautiful ,italian         
balconies & buttresses h be5 demoli%$4  
,! fir+ ar\nd ! palace mu/ h be5 fe>ful1
 to judge by ! utt] ru9 ab\t1 & all !   

telephone wires dangl+ ov] ! /reet 9    
me%es f e h\se4 ,ru9 & wreckage ev]y:]e4
  ,by ?is "t ! hospitals ( ! city1 !    
*ur*es & public build+s 7 fill$ ) !     
w\nd$ & dy+1 borne !re on /ret*]s made  
(t5 ( spl9t]$ & %att]$ doors4 ,ne>ly a  
hundr$ m5 7 tak5 into ! ,san ,francisco 
conv5t alone4 ,yet ) all ?is ! lu/ =    
blood 0 n qu5*$4 ,x c\ld /ill be writt5 
( ! f\r? day3  ,at ab\t half-pa/ two1 a 
%>p attack 0 made by ! ,gov]nm5t troops 
on ! ,plaza ,p>que1 & a fe>ful fire 0   
kept up4 ,hundr$s & hundr$s fell on bo? 
sides1 b ! ,gov]nm5t troops 7 f9ally    
repuls$4 ,p /&+ at ! corn]s ( ! /reets  
*e]+ = ! ,revolutioni/s 7 fir$ on & _m 7
 kill$4 ,bodies ( ,gov]nm5t troops 7    
/ation$ at ! corn]s ( ! /reets lead+ to 
! ,plaza1 ,l>ge bales ( hay _h be5 heap$
 up to protect !m f ! deadly fire ( !   
,revolutioni/s4  ,x 0 at times difficult
 to rememb] t heavy slaught] 0 go+ on   
ar\nd4 ,9 _m p>ts ( ! city p 7 *att+1   
jok+ & laugh+ at _! doors4 ,! attitude (
 ! =eign population 0 m s]i\s2 !y seem$ 

to =esee ! heavy responsibilities ( !   
position & to accurately =eca/ ! result 
( ! insurrection4  ,! bullet9s ( ! v>i\s
 newspap]s dur+ ! revolution 7 pur*as$  
by ! ?\s& & p]us$ ) ! utmo/ avidity2    
fancy prices 7 (t5 paid = !m4 ,! ,sunday
 edition ( ,! ,/&>d 0 sold by ent]pris+ 
newsboys 9 ! suburbs z high z #c4jj p]  
copy1 :il/ fifty c5ts 0 ! regulation    
price = a mom5t>y peep at our fir/      
column4  ,t[>ds ! close ( t memorable   
#bi? ( ,july ! hail ( bullets ceas$1 b !
 insurg5t fleet /ill kept up its        
de/ructive bomb>dm5t ( ! ,gov]nm5t h\ses
 = f\r h\rs4  ,! ,revolutioni/s 7       
defeat$1 or1 z 0 s]i\sly affirm$1 _h be5
 sold = ! sum ( "o million ,arg5t9e     
doll>s4  ,e/amos v5didos6 ,e/amos       
v5didos6 7,we are sold6 ,we are sold67 0
 he>d on e h&4 ,because ( ?is surr5d]   
(fic]s broke _! swords & m5 ?rew away _!
 rifles z !y wept ) rage4 ,a s]geant    
exclaim$3 ,& = ?is !y call$ u out--to   
surr5d] )\t a /ruggle6 ,c[>ds6          
,poltroons6 ,& !n ) a /]n glance ar\nd  

he plac$ 8 rifle to 8 brea/ & %ot       
himself ?r\gh ! he>t4 ,aft] ! cessation 
( ho/ilities bo? sides collect$ _! dead1
 & ! w\nd$ 7 plac$ "u ! c>e ( surgeons1 
civil z well z milit>y4  ,not)/&+ ! fact
 t ! insurg5ts 7 said to be defeat$1 !  
,presid5t1 ,dr4 ,celman1 fl$ f ! city1 &
 ! amus+ spectacle 0 se5 ( m5 & y\?s    
patroll+ ! /reets we>+ c>ds 9 _! hats   
:i* read3 ,ya se fue el burro 7,at la/ !
 donkey has gone74 ,a m s]i\s sight1    
h[ev]1 0 :5 ! effigy ( ! flee+ ,presid5t
 0 crucifi$4  ,?us end$ ! insurrection (
 #ahij1 a ris+ :i* s5t ?ree ?\s& brave  
m5 into et]nity4  ,:at *anges _h tak5   
place 9 f\r %ort days6 ,at ! ,plaza     
,lib]tad ! wreckage 0 mo/ complete4 ,!  
beautiful p>ti]res 7 trodd5 d[n by      
horses2 ! trees _h be5 p>tially cut d[n 
= fuel2 pools ( blood1 remnants (       
slaught]$ animals1 (fal1 refuse ev]y:]e4
  ,s9ce ! glori\s days ( ! ,briti%      
invasion--glori\s f an ,arg5t9e po9t (  
view--,bu5os ,ayres _h nev] se5 its     
/reets turn$ into b>ricades & its       

h\setops into =tresses4 ,9 times (      
electoral excitem5t we _h se5 electors  
attack ea* o!r 9 b&s _m ye>s1 b nev] 0  
organiz$ w>f>e c>ri$ on z dur+ ?is      
revolution4 ,! ,plaza ,p>que 0 occupi$  
by f\r or five ?\s& ,revolution>y       
troops2 all access to ! ,plaza 0 def5d$ 
by arm$ gr\ps on ! h\se-tops & b>ricades
 9 ! /reets1 ,krupp guns & t mo/ inf]nal
 ( mod]n inv5tions1 ! mitrailleuse1     
swept all ! /reets1 nor?1 s\?1 ea/ &    
we/4 ,! deadly grape swept ! /reets d[n 
to ! v riv]1 & n tw5ty ?\s& m5 c\ld h   
tak5 ! ,revolution>y position by /orm1  
except by gutt+ ! h\ses & pi]c+ !       
blocks1 z ,colonel ,g>m5dia propos$1 to 
avoid ! awful loss ( life suff]$ 9 !    
tak+ ( ! ,plaza ,lib]tad on ,saturday   
morn+4  ,at ! close ( ! revolution !    
great city f\nd itself suff]+ f a       
quasi-fam9e4 ,high prices 7 ask$ =      
ev]y?+4 ,9 "s di/ricts provisions c\ld n
 be obta9$ ev5 at fam9e prices4 ,! writ]
 = ! fir/ "t 9 8 life _h to g "h & !re  
to beg a loaf ( bread = 8 family's ne$s4

  ,a report] ( ! ,arg5t9e ,news1 ,july  
#ca/ ( t same ye>1 wrote3  ,!re is a    
revolution go+ on 9 ,ros>io4 ,x began on
 ,saturday1 :5 ! ,revolutioni/s surpris$
 ! ,gov]nm5t p>ty1 & by "o on ,sunday   
mo/ ( ! ,gov]nm5t build+s 7 9 _! h&s4 ,x
 is n[ eight 9 ! morn+ & ! fir+ is      
t]rible4 ,volunte]s are com+ into ! t[n 
f all p>ts1 s ! rebels are b\nd to w9 ! 
/ronghold %ortly4 ,news has j come t !  
,gov]nm5t troops h surr5d]$4 ,f\r       
p4m4--,i h be5 out to see ! dead & w\nd$
 ga!r$ up by ! ambulance wagons4 ,i %\ld
 ?9k ! dead are less ?an a hundr$1 & !  
w\nd$ ab\t f\r times t numb]4 ,!        
surprise 0 s sudd5 t ! victory has be5  
easy & ) little loss ( life4 ,!         
,revolutioni/s are behav+ well & n      
de/roy+ prop]ty z !y might h done4 ,!   
:ole t[n is rejoic+2 flags ( all nations
 are fly+ ev]y:]e4 ,! sadde/ ?+ ab\t !  
affair is t "s fifty murd]]s h escap$ f 
! prison4 ,i saw _m ( !m runn+ away :5  
,i got ^u ! spot4 ,! ord] has be5 giv5  
to recapture !m4 ,i tru/ !y may be      

caught1 = we h too _m ( t class at      
lib]ty already4 99 99 99 99 ,x is       
e/imat$ t ov] #ajj1jjj r\nds (          
ammunition 7 fir$ 9 ! two days4 99 99 99
 ,! insurg5ts f$ on horse-meat & beef1 !
 =m] be+ obta9$ by kill+ ! horses       
belong+ to ! police1 ! latt] f ! v>i\s  
dairies1 f :i* ! c[s 7 seiz$4  ,9 #aiaa 
! two l>ge/ ,dreadn\ghts ( ! _w1 !      
,rivadavia & ! ,mor5o1 7 laun*$ = !     
,arg5t9e ,gov]nm5t4 ,^! two battle%ips  
are half z p[]ful aga9 z ! l>ge/ ,briti%
 ,dreadn\ght4     ,,*apt] ,,iii4  ,,!   
,,criollo ,,village4   ,! diff]5t c5tres
 ( trade & comm]ce 9 ! ,arg5t9e c easily
 be rea*$ by tra9 or riv] /eam]4        
,ros>io1 ) its #adj1jjj inhabitants1 9 !
 nor?2 ,bahia ,blanca1 :]e !re is !     
l>ge/ :eat elevator 9 ! _w1 9 ! s\?1 &  
,m5doza1 at ! foot ( ! ,&es1 sev]al     
times de/roy$ by e>?quake1 five hundr$  
miles we/--all ^! are m or less l !     
capital4  ,to arrive at an isolat$      
village ( ! int]ior ! travell] mu/ be   
cont5t to ride1 z ,i did1 on horseback1 

or be will+ to jolt along = weeks 9 a   
wagon )\t spr+s4 ,^! c>ts are drawn by  
eight1 t51 or m bullocks1 z ! weight    
w>rants1 & are provid$ ) two v /rong    
:eels1 )\t tires1 & (t5 /&+ eight & t5  
feet high4 ,! pati5t animals1 by means (
 a yoke fa/5$ to _! horns ) raw-hide1   
draw ^! c>ts ?r\gh long prairie grass or
 s9k+ morass1 ?r\gh swoll5 riv]s or ooz+
 mud1 ov] :i* mal>ia hangs 9 visible    
=ms4  ,! voyag] mu/ be prep>$ to suff] a
 little hung] & ?ir/ on ! way4 ,he mu/  
sleep among/ ! baggage 9 ! c>t1 or on ! 
broad] b$ ( ! gr\nd1 :]e snakes &       
t>antulas creep & ! heavy dew saturates 
"o ?r\gh & ?r\gh4  ,z is well kn[n1 !   
bullock is a sl[ animal1 & ^! nev]      
travel m ?an two or ?ree miles an h\r4  
,"t ) ! native is no object4 ,! words1  
,) pati5ce we w9 heav51 are ev] on 8    
lips4  ,! ,arg5t9e c\ntryman is decid$ly
 lazy4  ,d>w9 relates t he ask$ two m5 !
 "q3 ,:y don't y "w8 ,"o said3 ,! days  
are too long6 ,ano!r answ]$3 ,i am too  
poor4  ,) ^! p no?+ c succe$ unless x is

 begun :5 ! moon is on ! increase4 ,!   
result is t little is accompli%$4  ,y _c
 make ! driv] und]/& y\r ha/e1 & !      
bullocks und]/& & c>e /ill less4  ,!    
mosquitoes d _! be/ to eat y up alive1  
unless y\r body has already _h all !    
blood suck$ out ( x1 a humiliat+1 pa9ful
 & disfigur+ process4 ,y mu/ c>ry ) y   
suffici5t food = ! j\rney1 or x may     
happ5 t1 l me1 y are only able to %oot a
 small r+ dove1 & ) its entrails fi% out
 ( ! muddy /ream a mon/] turtle = ! ev5+
 meal4  ,if1 on ! o!r h&1 y pass a      
solit>y h\se1 !y w ) pleasure give y a  
%eep4 ,if y kill$ "o )\t p]mission y\r  
puni%m5t w\ld p]haps be great] ?an if y 
_h kill$ a man4  ,if a bullock becomes  
ill on ! road1 ! driv] w1 ) 8 knife1 cut
 all ar\nd ! sod :]e ! animal has left  
its footpr9t4 ,lift+ ?is out1 he w cut a
 cross on x & replace x ! o!r side      
upp]mo/4 ,?is cure is mo/ implicitly    
believ$ 9 & practis$4  ,illu/ration  ,! 
mak+ ( ! cross is suppos$ to d great    
wond]s1 :i* y\r guide is nev] tir$ (    

rec\nt+ :ile he dr9ks 8 mte 9 ! unbrok5 
/illness ( ! ev5+4 ,alas6 ! _m blea*+   
bones on ! road te/ify t ?is1 & a hundr$
 o!r su* rem$ies1 are n always          
effectual1 b ! m9d ( ! native is s full 
( sup]/iti\s fai? t ! te/imony ( 8 own  
eyes w n conv9ce him ( ! absurdity ( 8  
belief4 ,z he /oops ov] ! fire y w      
notice on 8 brea/ "s tr9ket or          
relic--any?+ w d if bless$ by ! prie/--&
 t1 he assures y1 w save him f e unkn[n 
& unse5 dang] 9 8 l& voyage4 ,! prie/   
has said x1 & he re/s satisfi$ t no     
lightn+ /roke w fell him1 no lurk+ pan!r
 p\nce ^u him1 nor w he die ( ?ir/ or   
any o!r evil4 ,i h rem>k$ m5 ( ! mo/    
cruel1 cut?roat description we>+ ^!     
treasures ) zeal\s c>e1 especially "o1 (
 :om x 0 said t he _h kill$ two wives4  
,:5 y\r driv] is "y & amor\sly incl9$ y 
w notice t he nev] />ts = ! regions     
beyond )\t fir/ provid+ himself ) an    
owl's sk94 ,?is ti$ on 8 brea/1 he tells
 y1 w ensure him favor 9 ! eyes ( !     
females he may meet on ! road1 & on     

arrival at 8 de/9ation4  ,i once        
witness$ :at at fir/ sight appe>$ to be 
a heavy fall ( sn[ com+ up ) ! w9d f !  
s\?4 ,/range to relate1 ?is ph5om5on    
turn$ out to be millions ( :ite         
butt]flies ( l>ge size4 ,"s ( ^!1 :5    
measur$1 ,i f\nd to be f\r & five in*es 
across ! w+s4 ,d>w9 relates 8 hav+1 9   
#ahcb1 se5 ! same sight1 :5 8 m5        
exclaim$ t x 0 sn[+ butt]flies4  ,!     
inhabitants ( ^! trackless wilds are v1 
v few1 b 9 all directions ,i saw numb]s 
( o/ri*es1 :i* run at ! lea/ sign ( man1
 _! enemy4 ,! fa/e/ horse c\ld n out/rip
 ?is bird z ) w+s out/ret*$ he spe$s    
be=e ! hunt]4 ,z ,job1 p]haps ! olde/   
hi/orian ( ! _w1 truly says3 ,:at "t %e 
lifte? h]self up on high1 %e scorne? !  
horse & 8 rid]4 ,! male bird jo9s 8     
sp\se 9 hat*+ ! eggs1 sitt+ on !m p]haps
 long] turns ?an ! female1 b ! wea!r is 
s hot t little brood+ is requir$4 ,i h  
_h !m on ! %elf ( my cupbo>d = a week1  
:5 ! little ones h =c$ _! way out ,=ty  
days is ! "t ( incubation1 s1 naturally1

 ^? mu/ h be5 already sat on =          
?irty-?ree days4 ,) op5 w+s ^! giant    
birds (t5 manage to cov] f tw5ty-five to
 =ty-five eggs1 al?\gh1 ,i ?9k1 !y      
seldom br+ out m ?an tw5ty4 ,! re/ !y   
roll out ( ! ne/1 :]e1 soon rott+1 !y   
bre$ innum]able insects1 & provide t5d] 
food = ! com+ "y4 ,! latt]1 on arrival1 
are always re>$ by ! male o/ri*1 :o1 n  
be+ a model husb&1 ignom9i\sly drives   
away ! p>tn] ( 8 joys4 ,x might seem t  
he has "s reason = do+ ?is1 = ! old     
hi/orian be=e ref]r$ to says3 ,%e is    
h>d5$ aga9/ h] "y ones z ?\gh !y 7 n    
h]s4  ,z ! longe/ road leads some:]e1 ! 
gl>e ( ! :itewa%$ *ur* at la/ meets y\r 
long+ gaze on ! f> horizon4 ,! village  
*ur*es are always :itewa%$1 & an old man
 is frequ5tly employ$ to /rike ! h\rs on
 ! t[] bell by guess4  ,i 0 mu* /ruck by
 ! sam5ess ( ! _m diff]5t int]ior t[ns &
 villages ,i visit$4 ,ea* wore ! same   
aspect ( indol5t repose1 & ea* 0 built 9
 exact imitation ( ! o!r4 ,ea* t[n      
possesses its plaza1 :]e palms & o!r    

semi-tropical plants wave _! leaves &   
s5d out _! p]fume4  ,f ! pr9cipal city  
to ! meane/ village1 ! /reets all be> ! 
same names4 ,9 e t[n y may f9d a ,holy  
,fai? /reet1 a ,/4 ,john /reet & a ,holy
 ,gho/ /reet1 & ^! /reets are %ad$ by   
orange1 lemon1 pomegranate1 fig & o!r   
trees1 ! fruit ( :i* is free to all :o  
*oose to ga!r4 ,all /reets are 9 all    
p>ts 9 a mo/ disgraceful condition1 & at
 night b5ea? ! heavy foliage ( ! trees  
,egyptian d>kness reigns4 ,except 9     
daylight1 x is difficult to walk ^?     
wret*$ roads1 :]e a goat (t5 f9ds       
progress a difficulty4 ,rott5 fruit1    
bran*es ( trees1 a%es1 etc41 all g on ! 
/reets4 ,a hole is (t5 bridg$ ov] by a  
putrefy+ animal1 ov] :i* run half-nak$  
ur*9s1 pelt+ ea* o!r ) oranges or       
lemons--common z /ones4 ,:5 ! highways  
are left 9 su* a /ate1 is x to be wond]$
 at t1 :ile /&+ on my own door-/ep1 ,i h
 be5 able to c\nt elev5 h\ses :]e       
smallpox 0 do+ its deadly "w1 all )9 a  
radius ( "o hundr$ y>ds8  ,ev5 9 ! city 

( ,la ,plata1 ! second ( importance 9   
,arg5t9a1 ,i once _h ! mis=tune to fall 
into an op5 dra9 :ile pass+ d[n "o ( !  
pr9cipal /reets4 ,! night 0 int5sely    
d>k1 & yet !re 0 no light left !re to   
w>n ei!r p$e/rian or vehicle-driv]1 &   
?is sew] 0 sev5 feet deep4  ,simple     
ru/icity & ignorance are ! *ief         
*>act]i/ics ( ! c\ntry p4 ,!y us$ to    
foll[ & />e at me z ?\gh ,i 7 a visitor 
f ,m>s or "s o!r planet4 ,:5 ,i spoke to
 !m 9 _! language !y 7 delight$1 &      
respectfully hung on my words ) b>$     
heads4 ,:51 h[ev]1 ,i told !m ( electric
 c>s & und]gr\nd railways1 !y turn$ away
 9 incr$ulity1 ?9k+ t su* m>vels z ^!   
c\ld n possibly be4  ,old ,_w t[ns !y   
seem to be4 ,! h\ses are built (        
sun-bak$ mud bricks1 knead$ by m>es t   
spla% & trample ?r\gh ! oozy sub/ance = 
h\rs to mix x well4 ,! poor] p build    
ran*es ( long1 sl5d] canes or ,indian   
corn/alks ti$ toge!r by grass & coat$ ) 
mud4 ,^! are all erect$ ar\nd & ab\t !  
mo/ impos+ edifice 9 ! place--! :itewa%$

 adobe *ur*4  ,all h\ses are holl[      
squ>es4 ,! patio1 ) its well1 is inside 
?is enclosure4 ,ea* h\se is lime-wa%$ 9 
v>i\s colors1 & all are flat-ro($ &     
provid$ ) grat$ w9d[s1 giv+ !m a        
prison-l appe>ance4 ,! w9d[-panes are   
sometimes made ( mica4 ,ov] ! front     
doors ( "s ( ! bett] h\ses are pictures 
( ! ,virg94 ,! nurse's h\se is designat$
 by hav+ ov] ! doorway a signbo>d1 on   
:i* is pa9t$ a full-bloom+ rose1 out ( !
 petals ( :i* is peep+ a little babe4   
,if y wi% to ent] a h\se1 y d n knock at
 ! door 7an act t w\ld be consid]$ great
 rud5ess71 b clap y\r h&s1 & y are mo/  
c\rte\sly invit$ to ent]4 ,! good woman 
at once sets to "w to s]ve y ) mt1 &    
quickly rolls a cig>1 :i* %e h&s to y f 
h] m\?1 :]e %e has already light$ x by a
 live emb] ( *>coal tak5 f ! fire ) a   
spoon4 ,mat*es c be b\ght1 b !y co/ ab\t
 t5 c5ts a hundr$4 ,if y tell ! h\sewife
 y d n smoke %e w />e at y 9 gap+ wond]4
 ,_! *ildr5 use ! we$1 & ,i h se5 a "m  
urge h] ?ree-ye>-old boy to :iff at a   

cig>ette4  ,b\nd ea* dwell+ is a ramada1
 :]e grapes 9 _! season hang 9 luxuriant
 clu/]s2 & ea* has its own g>d51 :]e    
palms1 pea*es1 figs1 oranges1 limes1    
sweet potatoes1 tobacco1 nuts1 g>lic1   
etc41 gr[ luxuriantly4 ,! g>d5 is       
surr\nd$ by a h$ge ( cacti or o!r k9dr$ 
plants4 ,! prickly pe> tree ( t family  
is "o ( ! /range/ ,i h se54 ,on !       
leaves1 :i* are an in* or m 9 ?ickness1 
gr[s ! fruit1 & ,i h c\nt$ z _m z ?irte5
 pe>s gr[+ on a s+le leaf4 ,:5 ripe !y  
are a deep r$ color1 & v sweet to !     
ta/e4 ,! sk9 is ?ick1 & cov]$ )         
innum]able m9ute prickles4 ,x is1 ,i    
believe1 a mo/ refre%+ & heal?ful food4 
,meat is v *eap4 ,a f9e leg ( mutton may
 be b\ght = ! equival5t ( twelve c5ts1 &
 good beef at f\r c5ts a p\nd4 ,_!      
favorite w9e1 ,lagrimas de ,san ,juan   
7,te>s ( ,holy ,john71 c be b\ght = t5  
c5ts a qu>t4  ,all cook+ is done on     
brazi]s--a species ( ?ree-legg$ iron    
bucket 9 :i* ! *>coal fire is k9dl$4 ,on
 ?is ! little kettle1 fill$ f ! well 9 !

 patio1 is boil$ = ! inevitable mt4     
,ab\t ?is h]b ,i pick$ up1 f v>i\s      
s\rces1 "s int]e/+ in=mation4 ,! mt     
plant gr[s *iefly ,9 ,p>aguay1 & is s5t 
d[n ! riv] 9 bags made ( hides4 ,f !    
village ( ,tacurti ,pucu 9 t c\ntry     
comes a /range acc\nt ( ! orig9 ( ! y]ba
 mt plant1 :i* runs ?us3 ,god1          
accompani$ by ,/4 ,john & ,/4 ,pet]1    
came d[n to ! e>? & comm5c$ to j\rney4  
,"o day1 aft] mo/ difficult travel1 !y  
arriv$ at ! h\se ( an old man1 fa!r to a
 virg9 "y & beautiful4 ,! old man c>$ s 
mu* = ?is girl1 & 0 s anxi\s to keep h] 
ev] pure & innoc5t1 t !y _h gone to live
 9 ! dep?s ( a =e/4 ,! man 0 v1 v poor1 
b will+ly gave 8 heav5ly visitors ! be/ 
he c\ld1 kill+ 9 _! honor ! only h5 he  
possess$1 :i* s]v$ = supp]4 ,not+ ?is   
action1 ,god ask$ ,/4 ,pet] & ,/4 ,john1
 :5 !y 7 alone1 :at !y w\ld d if !y 7   
,him4 ,!y bo? answ]$ ,him t !y w\ld     
l>gely rew>d su* an unselfi% ho/4 ,br++ 
him to _! pres5ce1 ,god address$ him 9  
^! words3 ',?\ :o art poor ha/ be5      

g5]\s1 & ,i w rew>d !e = x4 ,?\ ha/ a   
daught] :o is pure & innoc5t1 & :om ?\  
greatly love/4 ,i w make h] immortal1 & 
%e %all nev] disappe> f e>?4' ,!n ,god  
trans=m$ h] into ! plant ( ! y]ba mt4   
,s9ce !n ! h]b exi/s1 & al?\gh x is cut 
d[n x spr+s up aga94 ,o!r /ories run t !
 maid5 /ill lives2 = ,god1 in/ead (     
turn+ h] into ! mt plant1 made h]       
mi/ress ( x1 & %e lives to help all ^?  
:o make a compact ) h]1 ,_m m5 dur+     
,holy week1 if ne> a t[n1 visit ! *ur*es
 ( ,p>aguay & =mally promise to d$icate 
!mselves to h] wor%ip1 to live 9 ! woods
 & h no o!r woman4 ,aft] ?is v[ !y g to 
! =e/1 tak+ a pap] on :i* ! prie/ has   
writt5 _! "n4 ,?is !y p9 ) a ?orn on !  
mt plant1 & leave x = h] to read4 ,?us  
%e secures h] devotees4  ,roman         
,ca?olicism is n ,semp] ,idem1 b adapts 
itself to its surr\nd+s4  ,mt is drunk  
by all1 f ! babe to ! c5t5>ian2 by ! ri*
 cattle-own]1 :o dr9ks x f a *as$ silv] 
cup ?r\gh a gold5 bombilla1 to 8 s]vant1
 :o is cont5t ) a small g\rd1 :i*       

ev]y:]e gr[s wild1 & a t9 tube4 ,tea1 z 
we "k x1 is only to be b\ght at !       
*emi/'s z a rem$y = n]ves4 ,9 o!r       
c\ntries x is said to be bad = n]ves4   
,ea* h\se possesses its private alt>1   
:]e ! sa9ts are kept4 ,t sacr$ spot is  
veil$ (f :5 possible--if only by hang+ 9
 front ( x a c['s hide--f ! re/ ( !     
dwell+4 ,x consi/s1 accord+ to ! weal?  
or piety ( ! h\sewife1 9 exp5sive       
crosses1 beads1 & pictures ( sa9ts deck$
 out ) co/ly c>e2 or1 x may be1 b "o    
soil$ li?ograph surr\nd$ by pap] fl[]s  
or *eap baubles ( ! poor] classes2 b all
 are alike sacr$4 ,ev]y?+ ( value or    
beauty is collect$ & put z an (f]+ to ^!
 deities--pieces ( color$ pap]1 birds'  
eggs1 a rosy tomato or pomegranate1 or  
any color$ picture or bright t94        
,desc5d+ f ! ridicul\s to ! gruesome1 ,i
 h kn[n a "m scrape & clean ! bones ( h]
 dead daught] 9 ord] t !y might be giv5 
a place on ! alt>4 ,r\nd ?is v5]at$ spot
 ! goodwife1 ) h] palm-leaf broom1      
sweeps ) assidu\s c>e1 & aft]w>ds       

c>efully du/s h] crucifix & o!r         
devotional objects ) h] bru% ( o/ri*    
fea!rs4 ,"h %e kneels 9 pray] to !      
diff]5t sa9ts4 ,god ,himself is nev]    
invok$4 ,sa9t ,an?ony int]e/s himself 9 
f9d+ h] lo/ r+1 & ,sa9t ,roque is a     
wond]ful physician 9 case ( sickness4   
,if %e be a maid5 ,sa9t ,c>m5 w f9d h] a
 suitable husb&2 if a wid[1 ,sa9t ,john 
w be a husb& to h]2 & if an orphan1 !   
sacr$ he>t ( ! ,virg9 ( ,c>m5 gives     
balsam to ! =lorn "o4 ,sa9t ,joseph     
protects ! artisan1 & if a c&le is burnt
 9 front ( ,sa9t ,ramon1 he w mo/       
oblig+ly turn away ! tempe/ or ! lightn+
 /roke4 ,9 all cases "o c&le at lea/ mu/
 be promis$ ^! my/]i\s b5efactors1 & ra%
 inde$ w\ld be ! man or woman :o fail$  
to burn ! c&le2 "s mo/ t]rible v5geance 
w\ld surely ov]take him or 8 family4    
,god1 z ,i h said1 is nev] invok$4      
,p]haps ,he is suppos$ to sit 9 solit>y 
gr&eur :ile ! sa9ts adm9i/] ,8 affairs8 
,^! latt] are innum]able1 & :atev] may  
be _! position 9 ! m9ds ( ,romani/s 9   

o!r l&s1 9 ,s\? ,am]ica !y are di/9ct & 
sep>ate gods1 & _! grav5 image1 picture 
or c>v+ is wor%ipp$ z su*4  ,:5 religi\s
 que/ions h n aris51 life 9 ^? remote   
villages has pass$ v pleasantly4 ,! p   
live 9 great simplicity1 kn[+ sc>cely   
any?+ ( ! outside _w & its progress4    
,at ! ,fea/ ( ,/4 ,john ! wom5 take %eep
 & lambs1 gaily decorat$ ) color$       
ribbons1 to *ur* ) !m4 ,t is an act (   
wor%ip1 = ! prie/ puts 8 h& on ea* lamb 
& blesses x4 ,a velorio = ! dead1 or a  
dance at a *ild's dea?1 are g5]ally !   
only meet+s beside ! *ur*2 b1 z ! poet  
says3      ',tis kn[n1 at lea/ x %\ld   
be1 t ?r\gh\t      ,all c\ntries ( !    
,ca?olic p]suasion1     ,"s weeks be=e  
,%rove ,tuiesiday comes ab\t1      ,! p 
take _! fill ( recreation1     ,& buy   
rep5tance ere !y gr[ dev\t1      ,h[ev] 
high _! rank or l[ _! /ation1     ,)    
fiddll+1 fea/+1 danc+1 dr9k+1 mask+1    
,& o!r ?+s :i* may be _h = ask+4        
,c>nival is a joy\s "t1 & if = only once
 9 ! ye> ! quiet t[n !n res\nds ) mir?4 

,pails ( wat] are c>ri$ up to ! flat    
ro(s ( ! h\ses1 & ea* unw>y p$e/rian is 
9 turn delug$4 ,at o!r times fl\r is    
sub/itut$1 & on ! la/ day ( ! fea/ a%es 
are ?r[n on all sides4 ,at o!r seasons (
 ! ye> ! /reets are quiet1 & aft] !     
rural pursuits ( ! day are ov]1 ! guit> 
is br\ght out1 & ! ev5+ breeze wafts    
waves ( music to ea* li/5+ e>4 ,! guit> 
is 9 all ,s\? ,am]ica :at ! bag-pipes   
are to ,scotl&-! national musical       
in/rum5t ( ! p4 ,! ,criollo plays mo/ly 
pla9tive1 brok5 airs--n[ s l[ z to be   
almo/ inaudible1 !n high & %rill4 ,"h & 
!re he accompanies ! music ) snat*es (  
song1 tell+ ( an exploit or describ+ !  
d>k eyes ( "s lovely maid54 ,! airs     
/rike "o z be+ v /range1 & decid$ly     
unlike ! roll+ songs ( ,briti% music4   
,9 ^? int]ior t[ns a v quiet life may be
 pass$1 f> away f ! :i/le ( ! railway   
eng9e4 ,ev]y?+ is simplicity itself1 & x
 might almo/ be said ( "s t "t itself   
seems at a /&/ill4 ,dur+ ! heat ( ! day 
! /reets are entirely des]t$2 %ops are  

clos$1 & all ! _w is asleep1 = t is !   
sie/a "t4 ,!y eat _! d9n]s & g to       
sleep--& c\ld !y d bett]8  ,aft] ?is !  
b>b] draws 8 *air out to ! causeway &   
%aves or cuts 8 cu/om]'s hair4 ,wom5 &  
*ildr5 sit at _! doors dr9k+ mt & wat*+ 
! sl[ly drawn bullock-c>ts g up & d[n ! 
unev51 unmade roads1 bord]$1 n by !     
famili> maple1 b ) huge du/-cov]$ cactus
 plants1 ,! bullocks all draw ) _!      
horns1 & ! indol5t driv] sits on ! yoke1
 urg+ =w>d 8 sleepy animals ) a poke ( 8
 cane1 on ! end ( :i* he has fa/5$ a %>p
 nail4 ,! buey is v ?ick-sk9n$ & w\ld n 
he$ a :ip4 ,! :eels ( ! c>t are (t5 cut 
f a solid piece ( wood1 & are fa/5$ on )
 great h>dwood p9s 9 a mo/ primitive    
/yle4 ,soon aft] sunset all retire to _!
 tre/le b$s4  ,9 e>ly morn+ ! wom5 hurry
 to mass4 ,! ,criollo does n break 8 fa/
 until ne>ly mid-day1 s !y h no e>ly    
meal to prep>e4 ,ev5 be=e x is q light x
 is difficult to pass along ! /reets ow+
 to ! cu/om !y h ( c>ry+ _! pray+-*airs 
) !m to mass4 ,! ri* lady w be foll[$ by

 h] d>k-sk9n$ maid be>+ a sumptu\sly    
uphol/]$ *air on h] head4 ,! middle     
classes c>ry _! own1 & ! v poor take )  
!m a palm-leaf mat ( _! own manufacture4
 ,:5 mass is ov] religion is ov] = !    
day4 ,aft] s]vice !y make _! way d[n to 
! riv] or pond1 c>ry+ on _! heads !     
soil$ l954 ,/&+ wai/-high 9 ! wat]1 !y  
wa% out ! /a9s ) black soap ( _! own    
manufacture1 beat+ ea* article ) h>dwood
 bo>ds made some:at l a cricket]'s bat4 
,! clo?s are !n laid on ! s& or /ones ( 
! %ore4 ,! wom5 gossip & smoke until ^! 
are dry & ready to c>ry home aga9 ere ! 
heat becomes too int5se4  ,9 a          
description ( ,arg5t9e village life1 ,i 
c\ld n possibly omit ! prie/1 ! all 9   
all to ! native1 ! temporal & spiritual 
k+1 :o be>s 9 8 h&s ! de/9ies ( ! liv+ &
 ! dead4 ,^! m5 are ! pot5tates ( ! p1  
:o ref] ev]y?+ to !m1 f ! mo/ trivial   
matt] to ! weighti] "o ( ! sav+ ( _!    
s\ls aft] dea?4 ,bigotry & sup]/ition   
are extreme4  ,r5\s1 ! naturali/1 tells 
u t he visit$ "o ( ^! t[ns & left "s    

cat]pill>s ) a girl4 ,^! %e 0 to fe$    
until 8 return1 t !y might *ange to     
butt]flies4 ,:5 ?is 0 rumor$ ?r\gh !    
village1 prie/ & gov]nor consult$ toge!r
 & agre$ t x mu/ be black h]esy4 ,:5    
poor ,r5\s return$ "s "t aft]w>ds he 0  
arre/$4  ,! ,arg5t9e village prie/ is a 
dang]\s enemy to ! ,prote/ant4 ,_m is ! 
"t he has insult$ me to my face1 or1 m  
c[>dly1 *>g$ ! s*ool-boys to pelt &     
annoy me4 ,9 ! l>g] t[ns ! prie/ has    
defam$ me ?r\gh ! press1 & :5 ,i h      
answ]$ him also by t means1 he has heap$
 insult ^u injury1 exclud$ me f society1
 & made me a p>iah & a byword to !      
sup]/iti\s p4 ,i h be5 /on$ & spat ^u1  
hurl$ to ! gr\nd1 _h half-wild dogs set 
on me1 & my horse fright5$ t he might   
?r[ me4 ,i h be5 refus$ police help1 or 
be5 call$ to ! (fice to give an acc\nt (
 myself1 all because ,i 0 a ,prote/ant1 
or infidel1 z !y pref] to t]m x4 ,at ^? 
times great pati5ce 0 ne$$1 = at ! lea/ 
sign ( resi/ance on my "p ,i %\ld h be5 
attack$ by ! :ole village 9 "o mass4 ,! 

policeman on ! /reet has look$          
expectantly on1 eag] to see me d ?is1 & 
on "o occasion he escort$ me to ! /ation
 = snat*+ a bottle f ! h& ( a boy :o 0 9
 ! act ( ?r[+ x at my head4 ,arriv+ !re 
,i 0 mo/ sev]ely reprim&$1 al?\gh1      
=tunately1 n imprison$4  ,wom5 h cross$ 
!mselves & run f me 9 t]ror to seek !   
holy wat] bottle bless$ by ! fa!r4      
,doors h be5 %ut 9 my face1 & angry     
voices bade me begone1 at ! in/igation (
 ?is black-rob$ believ] 9 ! ,virg94     
,congregations ( wor%ipp]s 9 ! d>k-aisl$
 *ur* h li/5$ to a fabul\s description (
 my mission & "*1 until ! b>b] w\ld n   
cut my hair or ! but*] sell me 8 meat6  
,_m a "m has hurri$ly call$ h] *ildr5 9 
& precipitately %ut ! door1 t my %ad[ 9 
pass+ might n ent] & pollute h] home4   
,p]haps a s5orita1 m v5turesome1 ) h]   
black hair hang+ 9 two long plaits beh9d
 ea* %\ld]1 has run to h] iron-b>r$ w9d[
 to smile at me1 & !n p5it5tly fall5    
be=e h] patron sa9t implor+ =giv5ess1 or
 hurri$ to confess h] s9 to ! wily      

padre4 ,if ! confession 0 accompani$ by 
a gift1 %e has be5 absolv$ by him2 if %e
 7 poor1 h] te>-/a9$ face1 p]haps       
resembl+ t ( ! suff]+ ,madonna ov] !    
confessional1 has mov$ 8 he>t to        
t5d]ness1 = well he kn[s t              
,maid5s1 l mo?s1 are ev] caught by gl>e1
      ,& ,mammon w9s 8 way :]e s]aphs   
might despair4  ,! puni%m5t impos$ has  
only be5 t %e repeat fifty or a hundr$  
,ave ,m>ias or ,pat]no/]s4 ,poor delud$ 
creature6 ,h] s9 only consi/$ 9 p]mitt+ 
h] black eyes to gaze on me z ,i pass$  
d[n ! /reet4  ,^! poor creatures (t5 g  
to confession1 n to be =giv5 ! wret*$   
pa/1 b to get a new lic5se to commit s94
 ,"o woman1 to :om we (f]$ a tract1     
refus$ x1 &1 %[+ u an indulg5ce ( ?ree  
hundr$ days1 said3 ',^! are ! pap]s ,i  
l4'  ,a "y univ]sity man 9 ! capital    
confess$ t he _h nev] read ! ,new       
,te/am5t & nev] w\ld read x1 because he 
knew x 0 aga9/ ! ,*ur* ( ,rome4 ,! mass 
( ! p h n ! slighte/ notion ( goodness1 
z we c\nt piety1 & ly+ is n consid]$    

wrong4 ,a native w (t5 entreat ! help ( 
8 favorite sa9t to commit a !ft4  ,to ! 
,prote/ant ! idea ( religion )\t morals 
is inconceivable2 b 9 ,s\? ,am]ica      
,romanism divorces morals & religion4 ,x
 is q possible to break e comm& ( !     
,decalogue & yet be a devot$1 fai?ful   
,romani/4 ,footnote3 ,rev4 ,j4 ,h4 ,la  
,fetra1 9 ,prote/ant ,missions 9 ,s\?   
,am]ica  ,i c only describe ,roman      
,ca?olicism on ! ,s\? ,am]ican cont95t z
 a species ( hea!nism4 ,! ,*ur*1 to ga9 
proselytes1 accept$ ! old gods ( !      
,indians z sa9ts1 & we f9d idolatr\s    
sup]/ition & ,ca?olic display bl5d$     
toge!r4 ,! mo/ ignorant are inv>iably ! 
mo/ pi\s4 ,! m civiliz$ ! ,criollo      
becomes1 ! less he believes 9 ! ,*ur*1 &
 ! prie/ 9 return condemns him to et]nal
 p]dition4  ,x is n necess>y to detail !
 multitude ( pagan sup]/itions ) :i* !  
religion ( ,s\? ,am]ica is encumb]$4 ,x 
is en\gh to po9t out t x does n prea*   
,*ri/ crucifi$ & ris5 aga94 ,x prea*es  
,m>y1 :om x proclaims f ! lips ( ?\s&s (

 le*]\s prie/s to be ( p]petual         
virg9ity4 ,& x is by its delib]ate      
falsehood & deceit1 z well z by its     
misrepres5tation1 t ! ,roman ,ca?olic   
,*ur* 9 ,s\? ,am]ica has n only n taught
 ,*ri/ianity1 b has directly fo/]$      
deception & untru? ( "*4 ,footnote3     
,missions 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,rob]t ,e4    
,spe]4  ,:5 ,i desir$ respectfully to   
ent] a *ur* ) b>$ head & def]5tial mi51 
!y h foll[$ me to see t ,i did n /eal ! 
tr9kets f ! sa9ts or desecrate ! alt>4  
,if ,i h t\*$ ! font ( holy wat]1 in/ead
 ( x purify+ me1 ,i h defil$ x = _! use2
 & :5 ,i h look$ at ! images ( ! sa9ts !
 p h se5 !m fr[n at me4 ,aft] my exit ! 
prie/ w\ld spr9kle holy wat] on ! spots 
:]e ,i _h /ood1 to drive away ! evil    
influ5ce4  ,9 ^? *ur*es "o may see an   
image1 ) inscription b5ea?1 /at+ t ^? :o
 kiss x receive an indulg5ce = s9 & a   
promise ( heav54 ,:5 prea*+ 9 ,p>ana ,i 
inadv]t5tly dropp$ a ^w 9 disp>agem5t ( 
! wor%ip ( ! ,virg91 :51 quick z ?\ght1 
a man da%$ t[>ds me ) gleam+ /eel4 ,!   

,criollo's knife nev] errs1 & "o %>p    
lunge too well completes 8 task2 b an   
old ,p>aguayan fri5d !n ) me sprang ^u  
him & da%$ ! knife to ! gr\nd1 ?us leav+
 my he>t's blood w>m )9 me1 & n on !    
pavem5t4 ,i admir$ my antagoni/ = !     
/r5g? ( 8 convictions--true loyalty he  
display$ = 8 goddess1 :o1 h[ev]1 does n1
 ,i am sure1 tea* h] devotees to        
assass9ate ^? :o pref] to put _! fai? r 
9 h] ,div9e ,son4 ,_h ,i be5 kill$ !    
prie/ w\ld on no acc\nt h buri$ me1 &   
w\ld mo/ will+ly h absolv$ ! assass9 &  
kept him f ! arm ( ju/ice4 ,t arm 9 ^?  
places is v %ort inde$1 = ,i h myself   
met doz5s ( murd]]s rejoic+ 9 _! fre$om4
 ,hell is only = ,prote/ants4  ,on !    
door ( my lodg+ ,i f\nd "o morn+ a      
writt5 pap]1 well pa/$ on1 :i* read3    
,,mu]a6 ,,viva ,,la ,,virg5 ,,con       
,,todos ,,los ,,santos6  ,die6 ,live !  
,virg9 & all ! ,sa9ts6 ,t pap] ,i took f
 ! door & keep z a s\v5ir ( fanaticism4 
,! ,bible is an utt]ly unkn[n book1     
except to ! prie/s1 :o =bid its entrance

 to ! h\ses4 ,x1 h[ev]1 c\ld d little   
good or h>m1 = ! masses ( ! p are utt]ly
 unlett]$4 ,all ,prote/ant lit]ature    
/ol5 into ! t[n is inv>iably ga!r$ &    
burn$ by ! prie/1 :o w\ld n hesitate    
also to burn ! br+] if he c\ld )\t fe> (
 "s aft]-enquiry into ! matt]4          
,illu/ration3 ,,! ,,_w',s ,,l>gf/       
,,rock+ ,,/one1 ,,t&il1 ,,arg5t9a4 ,?is 
imm5se /one is s ev5ly pois$ t ! w9d or 
! slighte/ t\* ( ! h& sets x 9 motion b 
! /orms ( ! c5turies h fail$ to dislodge
 x4   ,rome is to-day j :at %e always 04
 ,h] own claim & motto is3 ,semp] idem  
7,always ! same74 ,b = ?is age (        
enlight5m5t h] inquisitorial fires w\ld 
/ill burn4 ,rome's cont5tion is1 n t %e 
does n p]secute1 b only t %e does n     
p]secute sa9ts4 ,%e puni%es h]etics--a v
 diff]5t ?+4 ,9 ! ,rhemi% ,new ,te/am5t 
!re is a note on ! words1 'drunk5 ) !   
blood ( sa9ts1' :i* runs z foll[s3      
',prote/ants fooli%ly exp\nd ?is ( ,rome
 because h]etics are !re put to dea?4 ,b
 _! blood is n call$ ! blood ( sa9ts1   

any m ?an ! blood ( ?ieves or           
man-kill]s1 or o!r malefactors2 & = !   
%$d+ ( x no commonweal? %all give       
acc\nt4'  ,dur+ my resid5ce 9 ,arg5t9a a
 ,jesuit prie/ 9 ,cordoba publicly /at$ 
t if he _h 8 way he w\ld burn to dea? e 
,prote/ant 9 ! c\ntry4  ,! foll[+       
/atem5ts are f au?oriz$ docum5ts1 laws &
 decrees ( ! ,papacy3  ,! papacy tea*es 
all h] adh]5ts t x is a sacr$ duty to   
ext]m9ate h]esy4  ,urban ,,ii4 issu$ a  
decree t ! murd] ( h]etics 0 excusable4 
',we d n c\nt !m murd]]s :o1 burn+ ) !  
zeal ( _! ,ca?olic "m aga9/ !           
excommunicate1 may happ5 to h sla9 "s ( 
!m4' ,footnote3 ,romanism & ,re=mation4 
,9 ,arg5t9e life ! almanac plays an     
important "p2 9 t ea* day is d$icat$ to 
! commemoration ( "s sa9t1 & ! *ild born
 mu/ ( necessity be nam$ aft] ! sa9t on 
^: day he or %e arrives into ! _w4 ,!   
fir/ "q is1 ,:at "n does x br+8 ,! baby 
may h *os5 to come at a "t :5 ! cal5d>  
%[s an undesirable "n1 /ill ! p>5ts     
grumble n1 = a sa9t is a sa9t1 & :atev] 

names !y be> mu/ be good4 ,! *ild is1   
!re=e1 *ri/5$ ,c>aciollo1 or ,john      
,bapti/1 :51 in/ead ( gr[+ up to be a   
=]unn] ( ,*ri/1 he or %e may1 ) m       
likelihood1 be a =]unn] ( ! devil4      
,:atev] "n a *ild br+s1 h[ev]1 has ,m>y 
tack$ on to x4  ,all names s]ve equally 
well = male or female *ildr51 z a       
conclud+ o or a s]ves to di/+ui% ! sex4 
,_m m5 be> ! "n ( ,joseph ,m>y4 ,numb]s1
 also1 bo? male & female1 h be5 baptiz$ 
by ! "n ( ,jesus1 ,savi\r1 or ,r$eem]4  
,if ,i 7 ask$ ! old "q1 ,:at's 9 a "n8  
,i %\ld answ]1 ,v little1 = 9 ,s\?      
,am]ica ! mo/ insol5t ?ief w (t5 boa/ 9 
! appellation ( ,don ,ju/ice1 & ! l[e/  
girl 9 ! village may be ,seorita        
,cele/ial4 ,don ,jesus may be f\nd      
inc>c]at$ = riot\s conduct1 & ,i h kn[n 
,don ,savi\r ?r[ 8 un=tunate wife &     
*ildr5 d[n a well2 ,don ,de/roy] w\ld h 
be5 a m appropriate "n = him4 ,mrs4     
,angel h] husb& sometimes f9ds n su* an 
angel aft] all1 :5 %e puts poison into 8
 mt cup1 a n infrequ5t occurr5ce4 ,let  

none be deceiv$ 9 ?9k+ t ! appellation  
is any index to a man's "*4  ,d>k1 ne$y 
p--,rome's true *ildr56  ,! s*ool-books 
read3 ,:i* is ! greate/ c\ntry8 ,ans41  
,spa94 ,:o is ! greate/ man8 ,ans41 ,!  
,pope4 ,:y8 ,because he is infallible4  
,x is 8 wi%1 & ! prie/'s duty1 to keep  
!m 9 ?is d>kness4 ,yet1--,"o came f     
,god1 a light to light5 ! ,g5tiles1 &   
,he said1 ,i am ! ,light ( ! _w4 ,"s day
 !y may he> ( ,him & !mselves see !     
,light4  ,already ! day is break+1 &    
sup]/ition mu/ prep>e to hide itself4 ,!
 un$ucat$ native no long] pursues !     
railway tra9 at ?und]+ pace to lasso x  
because ! prie/ rav$ aga9/ its be+      
built4 ,he ev5 9 "s cases d\bts if x is 
an inv5tion ( hell1 z he 0 taught4  ,!  
educat$ native1 ,alb]di1 a publici/ & an
 advocate ( fre$om1 9 ! discussion ov]  
religi\s rights ( =eign]s 9 ! ,arg5t9e1 
wrote3 ,spani% ,am]ica r$uc$ to         
,ca?olicism1 ) ! exclusion ( any o!r    
cult1 repres5ts a solit>y & sil5t conv5t
 ( monks4 ,! dilemma is fatal1--ei!r    

,ca?olics & unpopulat$1 or populat$ &   
prosp]\s & tol]ant 9 ! matt] ( religion4
     ,,*apt] ,,iv4  ,,tee ,,prairie ,,& 
,,its ,,inhabitants4   ,! ,pampas1 or   
prairie l&s ( ! ,arg5t9e1 /ret* to ! s\?
 & we/ ( ,bu5os ,ayres1 & cov] "s       
#hjj1jjj squ>e miles4 ,on ?is va/ level 
pla91 wat]$ by sluggi% /reams or %all[  
lakes1 b\ndless z ! ocean1 seem+ly      
limitless 9 ext5t1 !re is an exhil>at+  
air & a ri* h]bage on :i* br[se c\ntless
 h]ds ( cattle1 horses1 & flocks ( %eep4
 ,! grass gr[s tall1 & miles ^u miles ( 
ri* sc>let1 :ite1 or yell[ fl[]s m+le ) 
or ov]top x4 ,b$s ( ?i/les1 9 :i* !     
cattle completely hide !mselves1 /ret*  
away = leagues & leagues1 & pres5t an   
almo/ unbrok5 %eet ( purple fl[]s4 ,s   
va/ are ^! ?i/le-b$s t a day's ride     
?r\gh !m only leaves ! travell] ) ! same
 purple =e/ /ret*+ away to ! horizon4 ,!
 flori/ w\ld be en*ant$ to see :ole     
tracts ( l& cov]$ by ! ,v]b5a ,mel9dres1
 :i* appe>s1 ev5 long be=e y rea* x1 to 
be ( a bright sc>let4 ,!re are also     

acres & acres ( ! _m-fl[]$ camomile &   
numb]less o!r plants2 :ile l>ge tracts (
 l[-ly+ l& are cov]$ ) co>se pampa      
grass1 af=d+ %elt] = numb]less de]1 & _m
 v>ieties ( ducks1 cranes1 flam+oes1    
swans & turkeys4 ,wood !re is none1 ) ! 
exception ( a solit>y tree "h & !re at  
great di/ances1 g5]ally m>k+ ! site ( "s
 cattle e/abli%m5t ,,op e/ancia4 ,an    
omb1 or clu/] ( blue gums1 is c]ta9 to  
be plant$ !re4  ,on ?is prairie1 man1   
not)/&+ ! fact t he is ! "l ( creation1 
is decid$ly 9 ! m9ority4 ,millions (    
f\r-foot$ animals roam ! pla9s1 b he may
 be c\nt$ by hundr$s4 ,let u turn to    
him1 h[ev]1 9 8 isolat$ home1 = ! ,gau*o
 has be5 describ$ z "o ( ! mo/ int]e/+  
races on ! face ( ! e>?4 ,a desc5dant ( 
! old conqu]ors1 :o1 leav+ _! fair ones 
9 ! ,spani% p59sula1 took unto !m z     
wives ! unclo!d wom5 ( ! new _w1 he     
inh]its ! color & habits ( ! "o ) !     
vices & dignity ( ! o!r4 ,liv+ ! wild1  
free life ( ! ,indian1 & reta9+ !       
language ( ,spa92 ! f9e/ horseman ( !   

_w1 & p]haps ! wor/ assass92 ! mo/      
op5-h&$ & hospitable1 yet ! accompli%$  
purlo9] ( 8 neighbor's cattle2 imitat+ !
 ,spani>d 9 ! beautifully-*as$ silv]    
trapp+s ( 8 horse1 & ! untutor$ ,indian 
9 8 mis]able adobe hovel2 sp5d+ 8 :ole  
weal? 9 heavy gold or silv] bell-%ap$   
/irrups1 bridle1 or spurs 7! r[el ( !   
latt] sometimes hav+ a diamet] ( six    
in*es71 & leav+ 8 home de/itute ( !     
v]ie/ necessities ( life--su* is !      
,gau*o4 ,a horn or %ell f ! riv]'s b$   
makes 8 spoon1 g\rds provide him ) 8    
plates & di%es2 b 8 knife1 ) gold or    
silv] h&le & %ea?1 is almo/ a little    
=tune 9 itself4 ,cont5t 9 8 dwell+ to   
sit on a bullock's skull1 on horseback 8
 saddle mu/ be m\nt$ 9 silv]4 ,8 own    
be>d & hair he seldom trims1 b 8 horse's
 mane & tail mu/ be assidu\sly t5d$4 ,! 
bak$-mud floor ( 8 abode is litt]$ )    
fil? & dirt1 :ile he raves at a speck ( 
mud on 8 embroid]$ silk saddle-clo?4  ,!
 ,gau*o is a /range contradiction4 ,he  
has blu%$ at my good b pla9-look+       

saddle1 yet c\rte\sly ask$ me to take a 
skull seat4 ,he may possess five hundr$ 
horses1 b y se>* 8 kit*5 9 va9 = a      
plate4 ,if y please him he w pres5t y ) 
8 be/ horse1 wav+ away y\r ?anks4 ,if y 
displease him1 8 long knife w j z       
readily f9d its way to y\r he>t1 = he   
kills 8 enemies ) z little compunction z
 he kills ! o/ri*4 ,! ,gau*o1 ) 8 pr\d &
 dissolute air1 is ! mo/ unique ( all   
,s\? ,am]ican *>act]s4 ,he is c\rage\s &
 cruel1 active & tireless4 ,nev] m at   
ease ?an :5 on ! wilde/ horse2 on !     
gr\nd1 out ( 8 elem5t4 ,8 polit5ess is  
excessive1 8 nature fi]ce4 ,! *ildr5 d  
n1 l ours1 play ) toys1 b delight !     
p>5ts' he>ts by teas+ a cat or dog4 ,^! 
!y w /ick ) a ?orn or po9t$ bone to he> 
!m yell1 or1 lat] on1 lasso & half *oke 
!m4 ,!y w put out _! eyes1 & su* l      
*ildi% games1 innoc5t little d>l+s t !y 
are4 ,cold-blood$ torture is _! delight1
 & !y w *e] at ! sight ( blood4  ,to    
describe ! dress ( ?is desc5dant ( ,adam
 ,i feel myself incapable4 ,a %irt & a  

big sl\* hat seem to be ! only articles 
( attire l ours4 ,coat1 tr\s]s or %oes  
he does n we>4 ,in/ead ( ! fir/ m5tion$1
 he uses ! pon*o1 a long1 broad blanket1
 ) a slit 9 ! c5tre to admit 8 head4 ,= 
tr\s]s he we>s v wide :ite draw]s1 ri*ly
 embroid]$ ) broad ne$lework & /iffly   
/>*$4 ,ov] ^! he puts a black *irip1 :i*
 really ,i _c describe o!r ?an z simil> 
to ! napk9s ! "m provides = h] *ild4    
,bel[ ?is black & :ite leg cov]+ come ! 
long boots1 made f "o piece ( seamless  
hide4 ,^! boots are no?+ m ?an ! sk9 f !
 h9d legs ( an animal--g5]ally a        
full-gr[n horse4 ,! b5d ( ! horse's leg 
makes ! boot's heel4 ,naturally ! toes  
protrude1 & ?is is n sewn up1 = ! ,gau*o
 nev] puts m ?an 8 big toe 9 ! /irrup1  
:i*1 l ! bit 9 8 horse's m\?1 mu/ be (  
solid silv]4 ,a d&y w beautifully       
scallop ^! ra:ide boots ar\nd ! tops &  
toes1 & keep !m s(t ) an occasional     
application ( grease4 ,no heel is ev]   
atta*$4 ,ar\nd ! man's wai/1 hold+ up 8 
draw]s & *iripa1 is w\nd a long color$  

belt1 ) tassel$ ends left hang+ ov] 8   
boot1 d[n ! "r side2 & ov] t he         
inv>iably we>s a broad sk9 belt1 clasp$ 
at ! front ) silv] & adorn$ all ar\nd ) 
gold or silv] co9s4 ,9 ?is ! long knife 
is c>ri$4  ,:at %all ,i say ( ! dome/ic 
life ( ^! p8 ,un=tunately1 m>riage is   
practically unkn[n among !m4 ,! fa!r    
gives 8 son a few cattle1 & ! "y man1   
aft] build+ himself a h\se1 conducts    
?i!r 8 *os5 "o4 ,unhappily1 con/ancy 9  
ei!r man or woman is a r>e virtue4  ,( !
 sup]/iti\s side ( ! ,gan*o race ,i     
might speak mu*4 ,9 ! sa9ts ! female    
especially implicitly believes4 ,^!1 h] 
deities1 are all-p[]ful1 & to !m %e     
appeals = ! satisfaction ( h] e desire4 
,sa9t ,clem5t9a's help is s\ght by !    
girl :5 h] lov] betrays h]4 ,ano!r sa9t 
w aid h] 9 poison+ him4 ,if ! wife ?9ks 
h] husb& long 9 br++ ! ev5+ meal1 %e has
 in=m$ me1 a ^w ) ,sa9t ,an?ony is      
suffici5t1 & %e he>s ! s\nd ( 8 horse's 
ho(s4 ,sa9t ,an?ony seems to be useful  
on _m occasions ( di/ress4 ,"o ev5+ ,i  

call$ at a ran*o made ( dry ?i/le-/alks 
b\nd toge!r ) hide & ?at*$ ) re$s1 ,f9d+
 ! inmates v hospitable1 ,i /ay$ !re two
 or ?ree h\rs to re/4 ,com+ out ( ! h\se
 aga91 ,i f\nd to my dismay t dur+ our  
animat$ gossip my horse _h brok5 loose &
 left me4 ,n[ ! loss ( a horse is too   
trivial a matt] to int]e/ ,an?ony !     
sa9t1 b a horse hav+ saddle & bridle    
atta*$ to him makes x q a diff]5t matt]1
 = ^! (t5 co/ t5 times ! price ( !      
horse4 ,"o ( ! sa9t's especial duties is
 to f9d a lo/ saddl$ horse1 if ! own] or
 int]e/$ "o only promises to burn a c&le
 9 8 honor4 ,! night 0 v d>k1 & no sign 
( ! animal 0 to be se54 ,m9e ho/ laid 8 
e> to ! gr\nd & li/5$1 !n1 leap+ on 8   
horse1 he gallop$ into ! d>kness1 f :5ce
 he br\ght my lo/ animal4 ,i did n le>n 
until aft]w>ds t ,mrs4 ,jesus1 = su* 0 !
 woman's "n1 _h s\ght ! help ( ,sa9t    
,an?ony on my behalf4 ,i am sure %e lo/ 
h] previ\s good op9ion ( me :5 ,i ?ank$ 
h] husb& b did n (f] a special color$   
c&le to h] sa9t4  ,among ^! /range p ,i 

comm5c$ a s*ool1 & _h ! joy ( tea*+     
numb]s ( !m to read ! ,spani% ,bible4   
,boys & girls came long di/ances on     
horseback1 &1 al?\gh "s ( !m _h p]haps  
nev] se5 a book be=e1 ,i f\nd !m        
exce$+ly quick to le>n4 ,9 f\r or five  
mon?s ! old] ones 7 able to read any    
ord9>y *apt]4 ,9 ari?metic !y 7         
inconceivably dull1 & aft] ?ree mon?s'  
tuition "s ( !m c\ld n c\nt t54  ,i h   
said ! sa9ts are greatly honor$ among ^!
 p4 ,my ,*ri/mas c>ds g5]ally f\nd _!   
way to adorn _! alt>s4 ,e h\se has its  
favorite1 & "s ( ^! are reg>d$ z        
especially clev] 9 cur+ sickness4 ,x be+
 a v unheal?ful1 l[-ly+ di/rict :]e my  
s*ool 01 ,i contract$ mal>ial fev]1 &   
w5t to b$ v sick4 ,e day "s ( ! *ildr5  
w\ld come to enquire aft] me1 b         
,cele/9o1 "o ( ! l>g] boys1 came "o     
morn+ ) a v special message f 8 "m4 ,?is
 communication 0 to ! effect t !y did n 
wi% ! s*ool-tea*] to die1 he be+ r a    
nice k9d ( a man & well lik$4 ,because (
 ?is %e w\ld be pleas$ to let me h h]   

favorite sa9t4 ,?is image ,i c\ld /& at 
! head ( my b$1 & its v pres5ce w\ld    
cure me4 ,:5 ,i refus$ ?is (f] & smil$  
at its absurdity1 ! boy ?\ght me v      
/range4 ,to be s wise 9 "s respects1 &  
yet s ignorant z to refuse su* a *ance1 
0 to him incompreh5sible4 ,! sa9ts1 ,i  
f\nd1 are !re (t5 l5t out to fri5ds t !y
 may ex]cise _! heal+ p[]s1 or r5t$ out 
to /rang]s at s mu* a day1 ,:5 !y are n 
?us on duty1 b 9 a quiet corn] ( ! hut1 
!y get lonely4 ,! woman w !n g = a      
visit1 tak+ h] sa9t ) h]1 ei!r 9 h] arms
 or ti$ to ! saddle4 ,?is image %e w    
place ) ! sa9t h] ho/ owns1 & !y w talk 
toge!r & tea* "o ano!r4 ,a sa9t is      
suppos$ to "k only its own p>ticul> "w1 
al?\gh "o nam$ ,santa ,rita is said to  
be a work] ( impossibilities4 ,"s ( !m  
are only v rudely c>v$ images1 dress$ 9 
tawdry f9]y4 ,i h sometimes ?\ght t a   
,p>isian doll ( mod]n make1 able to op5 
& close its eyes1 etc41 w\ld 9 _! e/eem 
be ev5 compet5t to raise ! dead6        
,footnote3 ,writ+ ( ,spani% ,am]ican    

,romanism1 ,ev]ybody's ,magaz9e says3   
,to ! /ud5t ( human nature1 :i* means ! 
/udy ( evil z well z good1 ?is religi\s 
body is ( absorb+ int]e/4 ,"o w\ld look 
to f9d ^! en?usia/s righte\s & virtu\s 9
 _! daily life2 b1 ap>t f ! annual week 
( p5ance1 _! religion influ5ces !m n at 
all1 & on ! :ole ! memb]s ( ! ,bro!rhood
 con/itute a desp]ate class1 dang]\s to 
society4  ,9 cases ( sickness v simple  
rem$ies are us$1 & n a few utt]ly       
nons5sical4 ,to cure pa9s 9 ! /oma* !y  
tie ar\nd !m ! sk9 ( ! comadreka1 a     
small1 vile-smell+ animal4 ,?is !y told 
me 0 a sov]eign rem$y4 ,if ! suff]] be a
 babe1 a cross made on its /oma* is     
suffici5t to p]fectly cure x4 ,i h se5  
sev5 pieces ( ! root ( ! :ite lily1 :i* 
!re gr[s wild1 ti$ ar\nd ! neck ( an    
infant 9 ord] t its tee? might come )   
great] promptitude & less pa94 ,a /r+ ( 
dog's tee? s]ves ! same purpose4 ,to    
cure a bad w\nd1 ! prie/ w be call$ 9 t 
he may write ar\nd ! sore "s ,lat9 pray]
 backw>ds4 ,heada*e is easily cur$ by   

ty+ ar\nd ! head ! ca/-(f sk9 ( a snake4
 ,two puppies are kill$ & b\nd "o on ea*
 side ( a brok5 limb4 ,if a *>m is worn 
ar\nd ! neck no poison c be h>mful4 ,= a
 sore ?roat x is suffici5t to           
expectorate 9 ! fire ?ree times1 mak+ a 
cross4 ,lockjaw is effectually /opp$ by 
ty+ ar\nd ! suff]]'s jaws ! /r+s f a    
virg9's skirt2 & !y say also t p[d]$    
excrem5t ( a dog1 tak5 9 a glass ( wat]1
 cures ! smallpox pati5t1  ,z ,mrs4     
,jesus s5t h] boy to my s*ool1 s ,mrs4  
,fl[] s5t h] girl4 ,! latt] 0 p]haps !  
mo/ delud$ woman ,i h met4 ,h] e act 0  
bad 9 itself or *>act]iz$ by sup]/iti\s 
devotion4 ,%e 0 "o ( ! ,*ur*'s favorite 
wor%ipp]s1 & :ile ,i 0 9 ! neighborhood 
%e sold h] c[s & horses & pres5t$ !     
prie/ at ! ne>e/ t[n ) a l>ge & exp5sive
 silv] cross--! emblem ( suff]+ purity4 
,ne> h] liv$ a p]son = :om %e _h an     
especial av]sion1 b t enemy %e got rid (
 9 surely ! /range/ ( ways1 :i* %e      
describ$ to me4 ,cat*+ a snake1 & hold+ 
x s t its poison might n rea* h]1 %e    

pass$ a ?read$ ne$le ?r\gh bo? its eyes4
 ,:5 ?is 0 done %e let x g aga91 alive1 
&1 c>efully gu>d+ ! ne$le1 approa*$ !   
p]son f beh9d & made a cross ) ! ?read4 
,! undesir$ "o disappe>$1 hav+ probably 
he>d ( ! en*antm5t1 & be+ equally       
sup]/iti\s1 or--! *>m work$6  ,mrs4     
,fl[] 0 a mo/ repulsive-look+ creature4 
,h] sk9 0 exactly ! color ( an old copp]
 co94 ,%e did n resemble any fl[] ,i h  
se5 9 ei!r hemisph]e4 ,f> 0 %e f be+ a  
rose1 b %e c]ta9ly possess$ ! ?orn4 ,h] 
love = ! sa9ts 0 mo/ m>k$1 & ,i h kn[n  
h] promise ,/4 ,roque t %e w\ld walk six
 miles c>ry+ 8 image if he w\ld only    
grant h] a c]ta9 pray]4 ,?is petition he
 grant$1 & (f %e trudg$ ) h] div9e 787  
load4 ,^? acqua9t$ ) dwell]s on !       
prairie "k t ?is 0 inde$ a great task1  
horses be+ s *eap & rid+ s univ]sal4    
,mrs4 ,fl[] 0 unaccu/om$ to walk ev5 !  
%orte/ di/ance4 ,i myself c be> witness 
to ! fact t ev5 /rong m5 f9d x h>d to   
walk a mile aft] sp5d+ ye>s 9 eque/rian 
travel4 ,! native tells y t ,god =m$ y\r

 legs s t y might be able to sit on a   
horse r ?an to walk ) !m4 ,a favorite   
expression ) !m is1 ,i 0 born on        
horseback4  ,/one n be+ f\nd on !       
pampas1 ^! p g5]ally build _! h\ses (   
squ>e sods1 ) a ro( ( plait$            
grasses--sometimes ,i h obs]v$ ^!       
beautifully wov5 toge!r4 ,two or m      
holes1 accord+ to ! size ( ! h\se1 are  
left to s]ve = door & w9d[4 ,wood _c be 
obta9$1 glass has n be5 introduc$1 s !  
holes are left z op5 spaces1 across :i*1
 :5 ! pampa w9d bl[s1 a hide is /ret*$4 
,no hole is left 9 ! ro( = ! smoke ( !  
fire to escape1 = ?is to ! native is no 
inconv5i5ce :atev]4 ,:5 ,i h be5        
compell$ to fly ) rack+ c\gh & splitt+  
head1 he has calmly ask$ ! reason4 ,nev]
 c\ld ,i be> ! bl9d+ smoke t issues f 8 
fire ( %eep or c[ dung burn+ on ! e>!n  
floor1 ?\gh he he$s x n z1 sitt+ on a   
bullock's skull1 he rav5\sly eats 8 ev5+
 meal4  ,if ent]ta9+ a /rang]1 he w     
press uncut jo9t aft] jo9t ( 8 asado ^u 
him4 ,?is asado is meat roa/$ ov] ! fire

 on a spit2 if beef1 ) ! sk9 & hair /ill
 atta*$4 ,meat cook$ 9 ?is way is a real
 delicacy4 ,a favorite di% ) !m 7,i held
 a diff]5t op9ion7 is a half-=m$ calf1  
tak5 be=e its prop] "t ( bir?4 ,! meat  
is (t5 dipp$ 9 ! a%es 9 lieu ( salt4 ,i 
h said ! ,gau*o has no *air4 ,i might   
add t nei!r has he a table1 = ) 8 f+]s &
 knife he eats ! meat (f ! fire4 ,=ks he
 is )\t1 & a horn or %ell spoon conveys 
! s\p to 8 m\? direct f ! copp] pan4 ,s 
univ]sal is ! use ( ! %ell = ?is s]vice 
t ! native does n speak ( x z c>acol1 ! 
real ^w = %ell1 b calls x cu*>a del     
agua1 or wat] spoon4 ,( knives he       
possesses m ?an en\gh1 & heavy1 long1   
%>p-po9t$ ones !y are4 ,:5 8 hung] is   
appeas$ ! knife goes1 n to ! kit*51 b to
 8 belt1 :]e1 :5 n 9 8 h&1 y may always 
see x4 ,) t weapon he kills a %eep1 cuts
 (f ! head ( a s]p5t--seem+ly1 h[ev]1 n 
do+ x mu* h>m1 = x /ill wriggles--/icks 
8 horse :5 9 ang]1 &1 alas1 z ,i h said1
 sometimes /abs 8 fell[-man4 ,be+ s f>  
isolat$ f ! coa/1 he is necess>ily      

entirely un$ucat$4 ,! =w>d m>* ( ! out] 
_w conc]ns him n2 inde$ he imag9es t 8  
native prairie /ret*es away to ! end ( !
 _w4 ,he w gaze ) wond] on y\r wat*1 = 8
 only mode ( asc]ta9+ ! "t is by ! %ad[ 
! sun ca/s4 ,z t lum9>y rises & sets1 s 
he sleeps & wakes4 ,8 only b$ is !      
%eepsk91 :i* :5 rid+ he fa/5s ov] 8     
saddle1 & ! latt] article =ms 8 pill[4  
,8 cov]let is ! firmam5t ( heav51 !     
,s\!rn ,cross & o!r con/ellations1 unse5
 by dwell]s 9 ! ,nor!rn ,hemisph]e1     
seem+ to keep wat* ov] him2 or 9 ! cold]
 season 8 pon*o1 :i* ,i h already       
describ$4 ,ar\nd 8 c\* flit ! fireflies1
 resembl+ s _m />s ( e>? ) _! /rangely  
radiant lights4 ,! brightness ( "o1 :5  
held ne> ! face ( my wat*1 made light   
en\gh to enable me to asc]ta9 ! h\r1 ev5
 on ! d>ke/ night4  ,! ,gau*o ) 8 horse 
is at home any:]e4 ,:5 on a j\rney he w 
/op = ! ev5+ meal beside ! dry bones (  
"s dead animal4 ,) ^! & grass he w make 
a fire & cook ! meat he c>ries hang+    
beh9d him on ! saddle4 ,i h kn[n an     

animal kill$ & ! meat cook$ ) its own   
bones1 b ?is is n usual4 ,dry bones burn
 bett]1 & ?i/le-/alks bett] /ill4 ,he w 
!n lie d[n on "m e>? ) ! horse-clo? "u  
him & ! saddle = a pill[4 ,:5 travell+ )
 ^! m5 ,i h kn[n !m1 )\t any comm5t1    
/ret* !mselves on ! gr\nd1 ev5 ?\gh !   
ra9 0 fall+1 & soon be 9 dreaml&4 ,aft] 
hav+ pass$ a wret*$ night myself1 ,i h  
ask$ !m1 ,h[ did y sleep8 ,muy ,bi51    
,s5or 7,v good1 sir71 has be5 !         
inv>iable answ]4 ,!y w\ld (t5 gr[l mu*1 
h[ev]1 ov] ! wet saddle-clo?s1 = ^! soon
 cause a horse's back to become sore4   
,"h & !re1 b sometimes at long di/ances 
ap>t1 !re is a pulp]ia on ! road4 ,?is  
is always designat$ by hav+ a :ite flag 
fly+ on ! end ( a long bamboo4 ,at ^!   
places *eap spirits ( w9e & v bad rum c 
be b\ght1 along ) tobacco1 h>d          
%ip-biscuits 7v (t5 full ( maggots1 z ,i
 "k only too well71 & a few o!r m       
necess>y ?+s4 ,i h obs]v$ 9 "s ( ^!     
wayside inns c\nt]s made ( turf1 built 9
 blocks z bricks w\ld be4 ,"h ! natives 

/op to dr9k long & deep1 & /ew _! meagre
 bra9s 9 bad spirits4 ,^! draughts      
result 9 qu>rels & sometimes 9 murd]4   
,! ,gau*o1 l ! ,indian1 _c dr9k liquor  
)\t becom+ madd5$ by x4 ,he w !n d ?+s  
:i* 9 8 sob] mom5ts he w\ld n dream (4  
,i 0 acqua9t$ ) a man :o own$ a horse ( 
:i* he 0 v fond ,?is animal bore him "o 
ev5+ to a pulp]ia "s miles di/ant1 & 0  
left ti$ outside :ile he imbib$ 8 fill  
inside4 ,com+ out at l5g? bea/ly        
intoxicat$1 he m\nt$ 8 horse & proce$$  
homew>d4 ,arriv+ at a =k 9 ! pa?1 !     
fai?ful horse took ! "o lead+ home1 b ! 
rid]1 ?9k+ 9 8 /upor t ! o!r way 0 ! "r 
"o1 turn$ ! horse's head4 ,z ! poor     
creature want$ to get home & h ! saddle 
tak5 (f1 x turn$ aga94 ,?is affront 0   
too mu* = ! ,gau*o1 :o is a man (       
volcanic passions1 s draw+ 8 knife1 he  
/abb$ x 9 ! neck1 & !y dropp$ to ! gr\nd
 toge!r4 ,:5 he realiz$ t he _h kill$ 8 
favorite horse he cri$ l a *ild4 ,i     
pass$ ?is dead animal sev]al times      
aft]w>ds & saw ! vultures clean its     

bones4 ,x s]v$ me z a witness to !      
results ( ungov]n$ passion4  ,! ,gau*o  
does n1 & w\ld n "u any consid]ation1   
ride a m>e2 consequ5tly1 = "w %e is     
practically valueless4 ,/ra91 :o rode   
across ! pampas1 says3 ,9 a s+le ye> t5 
million hides 7 export$4 ,= "o or two   
doll>s ea* ! buy] may pur*ase any numb]2
 inde$1 ( su* little wor? are ! m>es t  
!y are v (t5 kill$ = _! hide1 or to s]ve
 z food = sw9e4 ,at "o e/ancia ,i visit$
 ,i 0 in=m$ t "o 0 kill$ ea* day = pig  
fe$4 ,! m>e c be driv5 long di/ances1   
ev5 a hundr$ miles a day1 = sev]al      
successive days1 ,! ,arg5t9e army mu/   
surely be ! mo/ mobile ( any 9 ! _w1 =  
its soldi]s1 :5 on ! m>*1 get no?+ b    
m>e's fle% & ! cu/om gives !m great     
facility ( movem5t4 ,! horse has1 m or  
less1 its /&>d value1 & co/s f\r or five
 times ! price ( ! m>e4   ,illu/ration3 
,,! ,,au?or ,,9 ,,gau*o ,,dress4        
,sometimes x happ5s t ! native f9ds a   
colt :i* is positively untamable4 ,on ! 
*eek ( su* an animal ! ,gau*o w burn a  

cross & !n all[ x to g free1 l !        
scape-goat m5tion$ 9 ! book (           
,leviticus4  ,! native horse is r small1
 b v wiry & wild4 ,i 0 once compell$1   
?r\gh sickness1 to make a j\rney (      
n9ety-sev5 miles1 be+ 9 ! saddle =      
sev5te5 consecutive h\rs1 & yet my poor 
horse 0 unable to get "o m\?ful ( food  
on ! j\rney1 & ! saddle 0 n tak5 (f 8   
back = a mom5t4 ,he 0 v wild1 yet "o    
ev5+ betwe5 five & eight o'clock1 he    
bore me safely a di/ance ( ?irty-six    
miles1 & return$ ! same di/ance ) me on 
! foll[+ morn+4 ,he _h n eat5 or drunk  
any?+ dur+ ! night1 = ! locu/s _h dev\r$
 all pa/urage & no ra9 _h fall5 = a     
space ( five mon?s4  ,! horse is n      
indig5\s to ,am]ica1 al?\gh ,d>w9 tells 
u t ,s\? ,am]ica _h a native horse1 :i* 
liv$ & disappe>$ ages ago4 ,spani%      
hi/ory in=ms u t !y 7 fir/ l&$ 9 ,bu5os 
,ayres 9 #aecg4 ,we are fur!r told t !  
,indians flew away 9 t]ror at ! sight ( 
a man on horseback1 :i* !y took to be "o
 animal ( a /range1 two-head$ %ape4 ,:5 

! colony 0 = a "t des]t$ ^! horses 7    
suff]$ to run wild4 ,^? animals s       
multipli$ & spread ov] su* a va/ area t 
!y 7 f\nd1 =ty-?ree ye>s lat]1 ev5 d[n  
to ! ,/raits ( ,magellan1 a di/ance (   
elev5 hundr$ miles4 ,) good pa/ure & a  
limitless expanse to roam ov]1 !y soon  
turn$ f ! doz5s to ?\s&s1 & may n[ be   
c\nt$ by millions4 ,! ,patagonian foot  
,indians quickly turn$ into horse       
,indians1 = on ^? wide prairie l&s a man
 )\t a horse is almo/ comp>able to a man
 )\t legs4 ,9 =m] ye>s1 ?\s&s ( wild    
horses roam$ ov] ^! ext5sive pla9s1 b ! 
/ruggle ( mank9d 9 ! battle ( life turn$
 m5's att5tion to !m1 & !y 7 captur$ &  
br&$ by :omsoev] _h ! p[] & c>$ to take 
! tr\ble4 ,9 ! m isolat$ di/ricts1 !re  
may /ill be f\nd numb]s :i* are born &  
die )\t ev] feel+ ! t\* ( saddle or     
bridle4 ,f> away f ! cr[d$ busses &     
p]petually mov+ hansoms ( ! city1 !y    
feel n ! driv]'s :ip nor ! /ra9 ( !     
wagon1 z1 ) tail trail+ on ! gr\nd &    
head erect1 !y gallop 9 fre$om ( life4  

,happy !y6  ,9 all directions on !      
prairie o/ri*es are f\nd4 ,! natives    
cat* !m ) boliadoras1 an old ,indian    
weapon1 :i* is simply ?ree r\nd /ones1  
incas$ 9 bags ( hide1 ti$ toge!r by     
twi/$ ropes1 also ( hide4 ,:5 ! hunt]s  
h1 by gallop+ f diff]5t directions1     
baffl$ ! bird 9 8 flight1 !y ?und] d[n  
^u him1 &1 ?r[+ ! boliadoras r\nd 8     
legs1 :]e !y entangle1 effectually /op 8
 flight4 ,i h se5 ?is weapon ?r[n a     
di/ance ( ab\t eighty y>ds4  ,! o/ri* is
 a bird ) wond]ful dige/ive p[]s1 :i* ,i
 (t5 h envi$ him2 he eats grass or      
pebbles1 insects or bones1 z suits 8    
v>y+ fancy4 ,if y drop y\r knife or any 
o!r article1 he w /op to exam9e x1 be+  
mo/ inquisitive1 &1 if possible1 he w   
swall[ x4 ,! fle% ( ! o/ri* is dry &    
t\gh1 & its fea!rs are n to be comp>$ 9 
beauty ) ^? ( ! ,african specim54       
,g5]ally a v h>mless bird1 he is truly  
=midable dur+ bre$+ "t4 ,if "o ( ! eggs 
is s mu* z t\*$ he w break ! :ole numb] 
to %iv]s4 ,woe to ! man :om he savagely 

attacks at su* times2 "o kick ( 8 great 
foot1 ) its %>p claws1 is suffici5t to  
op5 ! body ( man or horse4 ,! ,gau*o    
uses ! sk9 f ! neck ( ?is bird z a      
tobacco p\*1 & ! eggs are consid]$ a    
great delicacy4 ,"o is equal to ab\t    
sixte5 h5's eggs4  ,z all creation has  
its enemy1 ! o/ri* f9ds 8 9 ! iguana1 or
 liz>d--an unsightly1 scaly1 long-tail$ 
species ( l& crocodile4 ,?is animal1 :5 
full-gr[n1 atta9s ! l5g? ( five feet1 & 
is ( a d>k gre5 color4 ,he1 :5 he c     
procure !m1 fe$s on ! o/ri* eggs1 :i* ,i
 believe mu/ be a v /r5g!n+ diet4 ,!    
liz>d1 aft] fatt5+ himself ^u !m dur+ ! 
six hott] mon?s ( ! ye>1 is enabl$ to   
retire to ! recesses ( 8 cave1 :]e he   
tranquilly sleeps ?r\gh ! rema9+ six4 ,!
 %ell ( ! o/ri*'s egg is ab\t ! ?ickness
 ( an antique *9a cup1 b ! iguana f9ds  
no difficulty 9 break+ x op5 ) a sla% ( 
8 tail ,?is wily animal is m a/ute ?an !
 bird1 :i* lays its eggs 9 ! op5 spaces1
 = ! liz>d1 ) h] claws1 digs a hole 9 ! 
gr\nd1 9 :i* h]s are dropp$ to ! numb] (

 doz5s4 ,! liz>d does n provide %ells = 
h] eggs1 b only cov]s !m ) a ?ick1 s(t  
sk91 & !y1 buri$ 9 ! soil1 ev5tually    
hat* !mselves4  ,:5 ! ,gau*o _c obta9 a 
bett] meal1 ! tail ( ! liz>d is n       
consid]$ su* a despicable di% by him1 = 
he is no epicure4 ,:5 he has no?+ he is 
also cont5t$4 ,8 philosophy is3 ,nunca  
t5ga hambre cu&o no hay que com] 7,nev] 
be hungry :5 no food is to be _h74  ,!  
e/ancia1 or catile ran*1 is a feature ( 
! ,arg5t9e prairie4 ,"s ( ^! e/abli%m5ts
 are v l>ge1 ev5 up to "o hundr$ squ>e  
miles 9 ext5t4 ,on !m hundr$s ( ?\s&s ( 
cattle1 %eep & horses are h]d$4 ,x is n 
improbable t !re are m cattle 9 ! pampas
 & llanos ( ,s\? ,am]ica ?an 9 all ! re/
 ( ! _w4 ,footnote3 ,dr4 ,h>twig 9      
,arg5t9a1 #aiaj ,an e/ancia is almo/    
inv>iably call$ by ! "n ( "s sa9t1 z are
 ! diff]5t fields belong+ to x4 ,holy   
,m>y field & ,sa9t ,joseph field are    
common names4 ,not)/&+ ! fact t !re may 
be ?\s&s ( c[s on a ran*1 ! visitor may 
be unable to get a drop ( milk to dr9k4 

,c[s are n made to milk1 b to eat1 !y   
say4 ,life on ^! e/abli%m5ts is r\gh & !
 f>e g5]ally v co>se4 ,ev5 among !      
weal?y p ,i h visit$ y may sit d[n to   
d9n] ) no?+ b meat put be=e y1 )\t a    
bite ( bread or any vegetables4 ,all    
dr9k wat] out ( an e>!nw>e pit*] (      
peculi> %ape1 :i* is ! c5trepiece ( !   
table4  ,ar\nd ! ran*es ( ! p are _m    
mice1 :i* mu/ be ( a f]oci\s nature1 =  
if "o is caught 9 a trap x w be f\nd    
next morn+ half1 if n almo/ :olly1 eat5 
by its own comrades4 ,well is x call$ ! 
cannibal m\se4  ,9 times ( dr\ght ! heat
 ( ! sun dries up all vegetation4 ,!    
lea/ sp>k ( fire !n suffices to create a
 mighty blaze1 especially if accompani$ 
by ! pamp]o w9d1 :i* bl[s ) irresi/ible 
=ce 9 its sweep ov] hundr$s ( miles (   
level gr\nd4 ,! fire1 ga!r+ /r5g? z x   
goes1 drives all be=e x1 or wraps ev]y?+
 9 its dev\r+ flames4 ,ca/+ a lurid     
light 9 ! heav5s1 t[>ds :i* rise volumes
 ( smoke1 x attracts ! att5tion ( !     
native1 :o lifts 8 />t+ eyes t[>ds heav5

 9 a spee*less pray] to ! ,holy ,virg94 
,madly leap+ on 8 fleete/ horse1 )\t    
saddle1 & (t5 )\t bridle1 he wildly     
gallops d[n ! w9d1 z ! ro>+1 crackl+    
fire ga9s ^u him4 ,9 ?is mad race =     
life1 m51 horses1 o/ri*es1 de]1         
bullocks1 etc41 jo91 /riv+ to excel ea* 
o!r 9 spe$4 ,/range to say1 ! horse !   
native rides1 *e]$ on by ! t\* ( 8 ma/]1
 is (t5 ! fir/ to ga9 ! lake or riv]1   
:]e1 b5ea? its wat]s at lea/1 refuge may
 be f\nd4 ,9 _! wild /amp$e1 va/ h]ds ( 
cattle trample & fall on "o ano!r & are 
dr[n$4 ,a m complete de/ruction c\ld n  
ov]take ! un=tunate travell] ?an to be  
caught by ?is remorseless foe1 = n ev5 8
 a%es c\ld be f\nd by m\rn+ fri5ds4 ,!  
gr\nd ?us burnt reta9s its heat = days4 
,i h _h occasion to cross black5$ wa/es 
a week aft] ?is mo/ de/ructive =ce 9    
nature _h done its "w1 & my horse has   
frequ5tly re>$ 9 ! air at ! t\* ( ! hot 
soil on 8 ho(s4  ,! ,gau*o has a /range 
me?od ( fight+ ^! fires4 ,sev]al m>es   
are kill$ & op5$1 & !y1 by means (      

lassos1 are dragg$ ov] ! burn+ grass4   
,! imm5sity ( ! pampas is s great t "o  
may travel _m miles )\t sight+ a s+le   
tree or human habitation4 ,! we>y       
travell] f9ds 8 only %ade f ! sun's     
pitiless rays "u ! broad brim ( 8       
sombr]o4 ,at times1 ) e>s =w>d & ext5d$ 
no/rils1 ! horse gazes int5tly at !     
rippl+ blue wat]s ( ! mirage1 t mo/     
tantaliz+ly deceptive ph5om5on ( nature4
 ,may x nev] be ! lot ( my read] to be  
misl$ by ! illusive mirage z ,i h be54  
,h[ c\ld ,i mi/ake vapor = cle>1 gurgl+ 
wat]8 ,yet1 h[ _m times 0 ,i "h deceiv$6
 ,visions ( great lakes & broad riv]s   
rose up be=e me1 lapp+ em]ald gre5      
%ores1 :]e ,i c\ld cool my p>*$ tongue &
 lave 9 _! cry/al dep?s2 yet to-day ^?  
wat]s are z f> (f z ev]1 & exi/ only 9  
my hopes ( ,p>adise4 ,n until ,i /& by !
 ,riv] ( ,life %all ,i behold ! reality4
  ,! inhabitant ( ^! treeless1 trackless
 solitudes1 :i*1 ) _! wav+ grass1 rem9d 
"o ( ! bosom ( ! ocean1 develops a ke5  
sight ,:]e ! /rang]1 aft] int5tly gaz+1 

descries no?+1 he w n only in=m him t   
animals are 9 sight1 b w1 moreov]1 tell 
him :at !y are4 ,i am ble/ ) a v cle>   
vision1 b ev5 :51 aft] /&+ on my horse's
 back1 ,i h made out no?+1 ! ,gau*o c\ld
 tell me t ov] !re 0 a drove ( cattle1 a
 h]d ( de]1 a troop ( horses1 or a h\se4
  ,x is e/imat$ t !re are two hundr$ &  
=ty millions ( acres ( :eat l& 9 !      
,arg5t9e1 & ( late ye>s ! prairie has   
develop$ into "o ( ! l>ge/ :eat-produc+ 
c\ntries 9 ! _w1 & yet only "o p] c5t1 (
 its cultivable area is s f> occupi$4   
,! ,gau*o is no f>m]1 & all 8 l& is giv5
 up to cattle graz+1 s *acras are work$ 
g5]ally by =eign settl]s4 ,! prov9ce (  
,entre ,rios has be5 settl$ l>gely by   
,swiss & ,italian f>m]s f ! ,pi$mont    
,hills4 ,b>on ,hirs* has also plant$ a  
colony ( ,russian ,jews !re1 & provid$  
!m ) f>m implem5ts4 ,:eat1 corn1 & l9se$
 are ! pr9cipal crops1 b sweet potatoes1
 tobacco1 & fruit trees d well 9 ?is    
virg9 gr\nd1 f]tiliz$ by ! dead animals 
( c5turies4 ,! soil is ri*1 & two or    

?ree crops c (t5 be h>ve/$ 9 a ye>4  ,no
 o!r "p ( ! _w has 9 rec5t ye>s suff]$ f
 su* a plague ( locu/s z ! agricultural 
di/ricts ( ,arg5t9a4 ,!y come f ! nor? 9
 cl\ds t sometimes d>k5 ! sun4 ,"s ( !  
sw>ms h be5 e/imat$ to be sixty miles   
long & f twelve to fifte5 miles wide4   
,fields :i* 9 ! morn+ /& high ) wav+    
corn1 are by ev5+ only comp>able to     
pl\gh$ or burnt l&s4 ,ev5 ! roots are   
eat5 up4  ,9 #aijg ! ,arg5t9e ,gov]nm5t 
organiz$ a bureau = ! de/ruction (      
locu/s1 & 9 #aijh #d1ejj1jjj 0 plac$ by 
,congress at ! disposal ( ?is           
commission4 ,an organiz$ s]vice1 embrac+
 ?\s&s ( m51 is 9 read9ess at any mom5t 
to s5d a =ce to any place :]e dang] is  
report$4 ,railway tra9s h be5 repeat$ly 
/opp$1 & lit]ally _m tons ( !m h _h to  
be tak5 (f ! track4 ,a f9e ( #ajj is    
impos$ ^u any settl] fail+ to report !  
pres5ce ( locu/ sw>ms or hopp] eggs on 8
 l&4 ,v>i\s means are adopt$ by !       
l&-own] to save :at he c f ! voraci\s   
insects4 ,m51 wom5 & *ildr5 m\nt _!     

horses & drive flocks ( %eep to & fro   
ov] ! gr\nd to kill !m4 ,a squatt] ) :om
 ,i /ay$ got 8 labor]s to gallop a troop
 ( m>es furi\sly ar\nd 8 g>d5 to keep !m
 f settl+ !re4 ,all1 h[ev]1 seem$       
useless4 ,ab\t midsumm] ! locu/ lays its
 eggs "u an in* or two ( soil4 ,ea*     
female w drop f ?irty to fifty eggs1 all
 at ! same "t1 9 a mass resembl+ a head 
( :eat4 ,z _m z #ej1jjj eggs h be5 c\nt$
 9 a space less ?an ?ree & a half feet  
squ>e4  ,dur+ my soj\rn 9 ,entre ,rios1 
! prov9ce :]e ?is insect seems to come 9
 greate/ numb]s1 a law 0 pass$ t e man  
ov] ! age ( f\rte5 ye>s1 :e!r native or 
=eign]1 ri* or poor1 0 compell$ to dig  
out & c>ry to ,gov]nm5t depots1 f\r     
p\nds weight ( locu/s' eggs4 ,x 0       
suppos$ t ?is en]getic measure w\ld     
less5 _! numb]s4 ,_m tons 7 collect$ &  
burnt1 b1 ,i assure ! read]1 no         
appreciable diff]5ce :atev] 0 made 9 _! 
legions4 ,! "y jump]s came1 eat+ all    
be=e !m1 & _! numb]s seem$ inf9ite4 ,m5 
dug tr5*es1 k9dl$ fires1 & burn$        

millions ( !m4 ,dit*es two y>ds wide &  
deep & two hundr$ feet long 7 completely
 fill$ up by ^! liv+ waves4 ,b all ef=ts
 7 unavail+--! e>? rema9$ cov]$4 ,a     
,wald5sian acqua9tance suff]$ = sev]al  
ye>s f ?is fe>ful plague4 ,"s seasons he
 0 n ev5 able to get back s mu* z ! se$ 
he plant$4 ,if ! locu/s pass$ him1 x s  
happ5$ t ! pamp]o w9d blew ) su* t]rific
 =ce t we h look$ 9 va9 ev5 = ! /raw4 ,!
 latt] 0 actually torn up by ! roots &  
:irl$ away1 none knew :i!r4 ,at o!r     
times l>ge hail/ones1 = :i* ! c\ntry is 
not$1 h de/roy$ ev]y?+1 or t5s ( ?\s&s (
 gre5 p>oquets h done _! de/ructive "w4 
,:5 a five-mon?s' dr\ght 0 p>*+ ev]y?+1 
,i h he>d him rev]5tly pray t ,god w\ld 
sp>e him :eat suffici5t to fe$ 8 family4
 ,?is food ,god gave him1 & he ?ankfully
 invit$ me to %>e x4 ,i rejoice 9 be+   
able to say t he aft]w>ds became ri*1 & 
_h 8 favorite say+1 ,dios no me olvida  
7,god w n =get me71 abundantly v]ifi$4  
,not)/&+ natural drawbacks1 :i* e c\ntry
 has1 ,arg5t9a c claim to h gone =w>d z 

no o!r c\ntry has dur+ ! la/ t5 ye>s4   
,!re are _m e/ates wor? m ?an a million 
doll>s4 ,dr4 ,w4 ,a4 ,hirot1 9 ,arg5t9a1
 says3 ,arg5t9a has m live /ock ?an any 
o!r c\ntry ( ! _w4 ,t5 million hides h  
be5 export$ 9 "o ye>1 & x is n          
improbable t !re are m cattle 9 ,s\?    
,am]ica ?an !re are 9 all ! re/ ( ! _w  
comb9$4 ,belgium has #bbj p occupy+ !   
space "o p]son has 9 ,arg5t9a1 s :o c   
prophesy z to its future8     ,,"p ,,ii4
  ,,bolivia   ,illu/ration     ,h y gaz$
 on nak$ gr&eur :]e !re's no?+     else 
to gaze on1    ,set pieces & drop curta9
 sc5es galore1    ,big m\nta9s heav$ to 
heav51 :i* ! bl9d+ sunsets     blazon1  
,black canyons :]e ! rapids rip & ro>8  
--,rob]t ,w4 ,s]vice4     ,,bolivia     
,bolivia1 hav+ no sea-coa/1 has be5 t]m$
 ! ,h]mit ,republic ( ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,its
 t]ritory is ov] #fjj1jjj squ>e miles 9 
ext5t1 & )9 its b\nds ,nature displays  
almo/ e possible panorama1 & all        
climates4 ,!re are burn+ pla9s1 ! home (
 ! emu1 armadillos1 & ants2 s&y des]ts1 

:]e ! w9d drifts ! s& l sn[1 pil+ x up 9
 ev]-%ift+ hills ab\t ?irty feet 9      
height4 ,bolivia1 %ut 9 geographically &
 politically1 is a _w 9 itself--a _w (  
v>iety1 9 sc5]y1 climate1 products & p4 
,its capital city1 ,la ,paz1 has a      
population ( #gj1jjj1 b ! va/ int]ior is
 almo/ un9habit$4 ,9 ! numb] (          
inhabitants to ! squ>e mile1 ,bolivia   
ranks ! l[e/ ( all ! nations ( ! e>?4   
,p]haps no c\ntry ( ! _w has be51 & is1 
s ri* 9 preci\s metals z ,bolivia4 ,!   
m9es ( ,potosi alone h furni%$ ! _w ov] 
#a1ejj1jjj1jjj wor? ( silv] s9ce !      
,spani>ds fir/ took possession ( !m4    
,footnote3 ,prote/ant ,missions 9 ,s\?  
,am]ica4  ,bolivia c lay claim to ! mo/ 
wond]ful body ( wat] 9 ! _w--,lake      
,titicaca4 ,?is lake1 ne>ly two & a half
 miles high 9 ! air1 is lit]ally 9 !    
cl\ds4 ,its lonely wat]s h no outlet to 
! sea1 b are gu>d$ on _! s\!rn %ores by 
gigantic ru9s ( a prehi/oric            
empire--palaces1 temples1 &             
=tresses--sil5t1 my/]i\s monum5ts ( a   

long-lo/ gold5 age4 ,"s ( ! l>ge/ & mo/ 
rem>kable ru9s ( ! _w are f\nd on !     
%ores ( ,lake ,titicaca1 & z ?is 0 !    
c5tre ( ! great ,incan ,dyna/y1 t       
rem>kable p h also left wond]ful rema9s1
 to build :i* /ones ?irty-eight feet    
long1 eighte5 feet wide1 & six feet     
?ick1 7 qu>ri$1 c>ri$ & elevat$4 ,!     
,temple ( ! ,sun4 ! mo/ sacr$ edifice ( 
! ,incas1 0 "o ( ! ri*e/ build+s ! sun  
has ev] %one ^u1 & x 0 itself a m9e (   
weal?4 ,f ?is "o temple1 ,piz>ro1 !     
,spani% conqu]or1 took #bd1jjj p\nds (  
gold & #hb1jjj p\nds ( silv]4 ,n9ety    
million doll>s' wor? ( preci\s metals 0 
torn f ,inca temples alone4 ,! old mon>*
 ( ! c\ntry1 ,atahuallpa1 gave ,piz>ro  
tw5ty-two million doll>s 9 gold to buy  
back 8 c\ntry & 8 lib]ty f ! ,spani>ds1 
b _! fir/ act on receiv+ ! va/ ransom 0 
to m>* him aft] a crucifix at ! head ( a
 procession1 &1 because he refus$ to    
become a ,roman ,ca?olic1 put him to    
dea?4 ,p]haps nev] 9 ! _w's hi/ory 0 !re
 a bas] act ( p]fidy1 b ?is 0 urg$ by ! 

soldi]-prie/ ( ! conqu]ors1 ,fa!r       
,valv]de1 :o himself sign$ ! ,k+'s      
dea?-w>rant4 ,?is prie/ 0 aft]w>ds made 
,bi%op ( ,atahuallpa's capital4  ,surely
 no c\ntry ( ! _w has _h a d>k] or a    
sadd] hi/ory ?an ?is l& ( ! ,incas4 ,!  
,spani>ds arriv$ :5 ! ,*ildr5 ( ! ,sun 7
 at ! height ( _! prosp]ity4 ,! affair (
 r$uc+ ! c\ntry 0 committ$ to ! h&s (   
irresponsible individuals1 soldi]s (    
=tune1 desp]ate adv5tur]s :o ent]$ on   
conque/ z a game :i* !y _h to play 9 !  
mo/ unscrupul\s mann]1 ) little c>e b to
 w9 x4 ,! l&s1 & ! p]sons z well1 ( !   
conqu]$ races 7 p>cell$ out &           
appropriat$ by ! victors z ! legitimate 
spoils ( victory4 ,e day outrages 7     
p]petrat$1 at ! contemplation ( :i*     
humanity %udd]s4 ,!y suff]$ ! provid5t  
arrangem5ts ( ! ,incas to fall into     
decay4 ,! poor ,indian1 )\t food1 n[    
w&]$ half-/>v$ & nak$ ov] ! plateau4    
,ev5 ^? :o aid$ ! ,spani>ds f>$ no      
bett]1 & _m an ,inca noble roam$ a      
m5dicant ov] ! fields :]e he once held  

rule2 & if driv51 p]*ance1 by 8         
necessities to purlo9 some?+ f !        
sup]fluity ( 8 conqu]ors1 he expiat$ x  
by a mis]able dea?4  ,footnote3         
,prescott's ,conque/ ( ,p]u4  ,*>les    
,k+sley says !re 7 cruelties & mis]ies  
unexampl$ 9 ! hi/ory ( ,*ri/5dom1 or    
p]haps on e>?1 save 9 ! conque/s (      
,s5na*]ib & ,z+his-,khan4 ,millions     
p]i%$ at ! =c$ labor ( ! m9es1 ,! ,incan
 ,empire _h1 x is calculat$1 a          
population ( tw5ty millions at ! arrival
 ( ! ,spani>ds1 ,9 two c5turies !       
population fell to f\r millions4  ,:5 ! 
groans ( ^! bea/s ( burd5 rea*$ ! e>s ( 
! good 787 ,que5 ,isabel ( ,spa91 %e    
enact$ a law t ?r\gh\t h] new dom9ions  
no ,indian1 man or woman1 %\ld be       
compell$ to c>ry m ?an ?ree hundr$      
p\nds' weight at "o load6 ,is x cause = 
wond] t ! poor1 d[n-trodd5 natives1 see+
 ! flaunt+ flag ( ,spa91 ) its /ripe (  
yell[ betwe5 /ripes ( r$1 %\ld reg>d x z
 repres5t+ a riv] ( gold betwe5 two     
riv]s ( blood8  ,n infrequ5tly1 said a  

reliable witness1 ,i h se5 ! ,spani>ds1 
long aft] ! ,conque/1 amuse !mselves by 
hunt+ d[n ! natives ) blood h\nds1 = m]e
 sport1 or 9 ord] to tra9 _! dogs to !  
game4 ,! mo/ unb\nd$ scope 0 giv5 to    
lic5ti\sness4 ,! "y maid5 0 torn        
remorselessly f ! arms ( h] family to   
gratify ! passion ( h] brutal conqu]or4 
,! sacr$ h\ses ( ! ,virg9s ( ! ,sun 7   
brok5 op5 & violat$1 & ! cavali] swell$ 
8 h>em ) a troop ( ,indian girls1 mak+ x
 seem t ! cresc5t w\ld h be5 a m fitt+  
emblem = 8 bann] ?an ! immaculate cross4
  ,) ! inexorable conqu]or came ! m     
inexorable prie/4 ,att5dance at ,roman  
,ca?olic wor%ip 0 made compulsory4 ,m5 &
 wom5 ) small *ildr5 7 compell$ to      
j\rney z mu* z ?irty-six miles to att5d 
mass4 ,abs5tees 7 puni%$1 !re=e !       
,indian fe>$ to disobey4 ,footnote3     
,neely1 ,spani% ,am]ica4  ,z is well    
kn[n1 ! anci5t inhabitants wor%ipp$ !   
sun & ! moon4 ,! ,spani% prie/1 9 ord]  
to ga9 proselytes ) great] facility1 did
 n =bid ?is wor%ip1 b plac$ ! crucifix  

betwe5 ! two4 ,:]e ! ,inca suns & moons 
7 ( solid gold & silv]1 !y 7 soon       
replac$ by pa9t$ wood5 ones4 ,!         
crucifix1 ) sun & moon images on ea*    
side1 is common all ov] ,bolivia to-day4
  ,n[1 f\r hundr$ ye>s lat]1 see !      
,indian "u prie/ly rule4 ,! foll[+ is   
tak5 f an (ficial report ( ! ,gov]nor ( 
,*imborazo3 ,! religi\s fe/ivals t !    
,indians celebrate--n ( _! own w1 b by !
 inexorable w ( ! prie/--are1 ?r\gh !   
mann] 9 :i* !y are kept1 worse ?an ^?   
describ$ to u ( ! times ( ,paganism1 & (
 mon/r\s consequ5ces to morality & !    
national welf>e 444 !y may be reckon$ z 
a b>b>\s mixture ( idolatry &           
sup]/ition1 su/a9$ by infam\s av>ice4 ,!
 ,indian :o is *os5 to make a fea/ ei!r 
has to use up 9 x 8 little sav+s1 leav+ 
8 family subm]g$ 9 mis]y1 or he has to  
rob 9 ord] to inve/ ! products ( 8 crime
 9 pay+ ! fees to ! prie/ & = *ur*      
c]emonies4 ,^! are simply brutal orgies 
t la/ _m days1 ) a num]\s att5dance1 & 9
 :i* all mann] ( crimes & vices h free  

lic5se4  ,= ! idols ( ! aborig9es 7     
sub/itut$ ! images ( ! ,virg9 ,m>y & !  
,roman sa9ts4 ,! ,indians gave up _! old
 idols1 b !y w5t on ) _! image-wor%ip4  
,image-wor%ip is idolatry1 :e!r 9       
,india1 ,africa1 or any:]e else1 & !    
wor%ip ( ,roman images is ess5tially    
idolatry z mu* z ! wor%ip ( any o!r k9d 
( images4 ,romanism sub/itut$ = "o set (
 idols ano!r set4 ,s ! ,indians :o 7    
idolat]s cont9u$ to be idolat]s1 only ! 
new idols _h o!r names &1 possibly1 7 a 
little bett]-look+4 ,footnote3 ,neely1  
,s\? ,am]ica4  ,:at has ,romanism done =
 ! ,indians ( ,bolivia 9 its f\r hundr$ 
ye>s ( rule8 ,comp>e ! p ( t peaceful1  
law-keep+ dyna/y :i* ! ,spani>ds f\nd ) 
! ,bolivian ,indian ( to-day6 ,n[ !     
travell] c report3 ,! ,indians are kill+
 ! :ites :]ev] !y f9d !m1 & practis+    
great cruelties1 hav+ bor$ holes 9 !    
heads ( _! victims & suck$ ! bra9s out  
:ile !y 7 yet alive4 ,sixte5 :ites are  
said to h be5 kill$ 9 ?is way6 ,^! same 
,indians are ^? :o h be5 ,*ri/ianiz$ by 

! ,roman prie/s = ! pa/ ?ree c5turies1 b
 su* cruelties z !y h be5 practis+ %[ t 
z yet n a ray ( ,*ri/'s love has ent]$  
_! d>k5$ m9ds4 ,h[ c ! prie/ tea* :at he
 is himself ignorant (8  ,:]e ! ,indian 
has be5 civiliz$1 z well z ,romaniz$1   
,mr4 ,milne1 ( ! ,am]ican ,bible        
,society1 c\ld write3  ,s9ce ! ,spani%  
conque/ ! progress ( ! ,indians has be5 
9 ! l9e ( det]ioration & moral          
degradation4 ,!y are oppress$ by !      
,romi% cl]gy1 :o c nev] dra9            
contributions en\gh out ( !m1 & :o make 
! *ildr5 r5d] s]vice to pay = masses =  
deceas$ p>5ts & relatives4 ,te>s came to
 our eyes z ,mr4 ,p5zotti & ,i wat*$ !m 
practis+ _! hea!n rites 9 ! /reets ( ,la
 ,paz1 ! *ief city ( ,bolivia4 ,!y diff]
 f ! o!r ,indians 9 t !y are dome/icat$1
 b !y "k no m ( ! ,gospel ?an !y did "u 
! rule ( ! ,incas4  ,:at is to be !     
future ( ^! natives8 ,%all !y disappe> f
 ! /age ( ! _w's hi/ory l s _m o!r      
aborig9es1 victims ( civilization1 or w 
a h& yet be /ret*$ out to help !m8      

,civilization1 aft] all1 is n entirely  
made up ( gre$ & lu/1 b 9 x !re is      
righte\sness & tru?4 ,may ! day soon    
dawn :5 "s ( ! latt] may be ext5d$ to !m
 ere !y take ! long1 d>k trail aft] _!  
fa!rs1 & h hurl$ ! la/ mal$iction at _! 
curs$ :ite oppressors6    ,we suff] yet 
a little space    ,until we pass away1  
,! relics ( an anci5t race    ,t ne'er  
has _h its day4  ,= f\r hundr$ ye>s     
,bolivia has ?us be5 held 9 *a9s by     
,romi% prie/craft4 ,s9ce its ,incan     
rul]s 7 massacr$1 its civilization has  
be5 ( ! l[e/4 ,build+s1 irrigation dams1
 etc41 7 suff]$ to fall into disrepair1 
& ! c\ntry w5t back to pre-,incan days4 
,! fir/ ,*ri/ian mission>ies to ent] !  
c\ntry 7 imprison$ & murd]$4 ,n[ ! morn+
 light is break+4 ,a law has be5 pass$  
grant+ lib]ty ( wor%ip4  ,bolivia1 ) its
 va/ natural ri*es1 mu/ come to !       
=efront1 & already /rides are be+ tak5  
=w>d4 ,%e c export ov] five million     
doll>s' wor? ( rubb] 9 "o ye>1 & is n[  
sp5d+ m ?an fifty million doll>s on     

railways4 ,s ,bolivia is a c\ntry ( !   
pa/ & ! future4     ,,*apt] ,v4         
,,j\rney ,,to ,,! ,,unexplor$ ,,lake4   
,s9ce ! days :5 ,piz>ro's adv5tur]s     
discov]$ ! hi!rto undream$-( spl5dor ( !
 ,inca ,dyna/y1 ,bolivia has be5 a l& ( 
surprises & romantic discov]y4 ,/range  
to say1 ev5 yet mu* ( ! ea/]n portion ( 
?is great republic rema9s practically   
unexplor$4 ,! foll[+ acc\nt (           
exploration 9 ^? regions1 left = m5 ( ! 
tw5tie? c5tury1 may n1 ,i am p]suad$1 be
 )\t int]e/ to ! g5]al read]4 ,bolivia  
has = _m ye>s be5 s]i\sly h&icapp$ ?r\gh
 hav+ no adequate wat] outlet to ! sea1 
& ! imm5se res\rces ( weal? %e und\bt$ly
 possesses h1 = ?is reason1 be5 suff]$  
to g1 9 a measure1 unwork$4 ,n[1 h[ev]1 
9 ! onw>d progress ( nations1 ,bolivia  
has /epp$ =w>d4 ,9 ! ye> #aijj1 !       
,gov]nm5t ( t c\ntry despat*$ an        
exp$ition to locate & explore ,lake     
,gaiba1 a l>ge %eet ( wat] said to exi/ 
9 ! f> int]ior ( ,bolivia & ,brazil1 on 
! l9e divid+ ! two republics4 ,!        

exp$ition /aff consi/$ ( ,capta9 ,boll&1
 an ,engli%man2 ,m4 ,b>bi]e1 a ,fr5*man2
 ,dr4 ,p]ez1 ,bolivian2 ,m4 ,g]>d       
,d',avezsac1 ,fr5* arti/ & hunt]1 & !   
writ] ( ^! pages4 ,! crew ( t5 m5 0 made
 up ( ,p>aguayans & ,arg5t9es1 :ite m5 &
 color$1 "o ,bolivian1 "o ,italian1 & "o
 ,brazilian4 ,/range to relate1 !re 0 no
 ,scot*man1 ev5 ! %ip's eng9e] be+      
,fr5*4 ,p]haps ! miss+ ,scot* eng9e] 0  
on 8 way to ! ,pole1 9 ord] to be f\nd  
sitt+ !re on its discov]y by----787  ,! 
object ( ?is co/ly j\rney 0 to asc5d !  
riv]s ,la ,plata1 ,p>aguay & ,alto      
,p>aguay1 & see if x 7 possible to      
e/abli% a port & t[n 9 ,bolivian        
t]ritory on ! %ores ( ! lake4 ,aft] "s  
mon?s ( untir+ en]gy & p]sev]ance1 !re 0
 discov]$ = ,bolivia a f9e port1 ) dep? 
( wat] = any ord9>y riv] /eam]1 :i* w n[
 be kn[n to ! _w z ,pu]to ,quij>ro4 ,a  
direct fluvial r\te1 !re=e1 exi/s betwe5
 ! ,atlantic & ?is f> inl& po9t4  ,!    
exp$ition left ,bu5os ,ayres1 ! capital 
( ! ,arg5t9e ,republic4 ,sail+ up !     

we/]n bank ( ! ,riv] ( ,silv]1 we ent]$ 
! ,p>ana ,riv]1 & aft] an unev5tful     
voyage ( six days1 pass$ ! m\? ( ! ,riv]
 ( ,gold1 & turn$ into ! ,p>aguay4      
,?ree hundr$ miles up ! ,high] ,p>ana1 a
 mighty /ream fl[+ f ! nor!a/1 :i* we "h
 left to our "r1 are ! ,falls ( ,yguas4 
,^! falls h be5 se5 by few :ite m54 ,!  
l& on ea* side ( ! riv] is infe/$ by !  
,bugres ,indians1 a tribe ( cannibals1 (
 excessively f]oci\s nature4 ,! ,falls (
 ,big ,wat] mu/ be ! l>ge/ 9 ! _w--& !  
writ] is well acqua9t$ ) ,niag>a4  ,!   
riv]1 ov] two & a half miles wide1      
conta9+ almo/ z mu* wat] z all ! riv]s (
 ,europe toge!r1 ru%es betwe5 p]p5dicul>
 cliffs4 ,) a curr5t ( =ty miles an h\r1
 & a volume ( wat] t _c be less ?an a   
million tons a m9ute1 ! mighty torr5t   
ru%es ) indescribable fury aga9/ a rocky
 isl&1 :i* sep>ates x into two bran*es1 
s t ! total wid? is ab\t two miles & a  
half4 ,! ,brazilian arm ( ! riv] =ms a  
trem5d\s horse%oe "h1 & plunges ) a     
deaf5+ ro> into ! abyss two hundr$ &    

?irte5 feet bel[4 ,! ,arg5t9e bran*     
spreads out 9 a sort ( amphi!atre =m1 & 
f9i%es ) "o gr& leap into ! jagg$ rocks1
 m ?an two hundr$ & tw5ty-n9e feet bel[1
 mak+ ! v e>? vibrate1 :ile spray1 ris+ 
9 columns1 is visible sev]al miles      
di/ant4  ,bel[ ! isl& ! two arms unite &
 fl[ on into ! ,p>ana ,riv]4 ,f !       
,brazilian bank ! spectator1 at a height
 ( two hundr$ & eighty feet1 gazes out  
ov] two & a half miles ( "s ( ! wilde/ &
 mo/ fanta/ic wat] sc5]y he c ev] hope  
to see4 ,wat]s /ream1 see!1 leap1 b\nd1 
fro? & foam1 '?r[+ ! sweat ( _! agony   
high 9 ! air1 &1 wri?+1 twi/+1 scream+ &
 moan+1 be> (f to ! ,p>ana4' ,"u ! blue 
vault ( ! sky1 ?is sea ( foam1 ( pe>ls1 
( iridesc5t du/1 ba!s ! great backgr\nd 
9 a %[] ( beauty t all ! m adds to !    
riot ( tropical hues already !re4 ,:5 a 
high w9d is bl[+1 ! ro> ( ! cat>act c be
 he>d ne>ly tw5ty miles away4 ,a r\gh   
e/imate ( ! horse-p[] repres5t$ by !    
falls is f\rte5 million4  ,proce$+ up ! 
,p>aguay ,riv]1 we arriv$ at ,asuncion1 

! capital ( ,p>aguay1 & an*or$ 9 a      
beautiful bay ( ! riv]1 opposite ! city4
 ,z _m necess>y prep>ations _h /ill to  
be made1 ! exp$ition 0 deta9$ 9         
,asuncion = fifte5 days1 aft] :i* we    
bo>d$ ! ,s4,s4 ,l$a1 = ! second /age (  
our j\rney4  ,/eam+ up ! ,alto ,p>aguay1
 we pass$ ! orange groves ( t sunny l&  
on ! "r bank ( ! riv]1 & on ! left saw !
 encampm5ts ( ! ,tobas ,indians1 ,!     
dwell+s ( ^! p are only a few bran*es ( 
trees /uck 9 ! gr\nd4 ,fur!r on1 we saw 
! ,*amococos ,indians1 a f9e muscul>    
race ( m5 & wom51 :o cov] _!            
bronze-color$ bodies ) ! oil ( !        
alligator1 & ?9k a cov]+ half ! size ( a
 pocket-h&k]*ief q suffici5t to hide _! 
nak$ness4 ,z we /ay$ to take 9 wood1 ,i 
tri$ to photograph "s ( ^!1 our bro!rs &
 si/]s1 b ! cam]a 0 no?+ b an object (  
dread to !m4 ,"o old woman1 ) h] long1  
black1 oily hair /ream+ 9 ! breeze1     
almo/ )]$ me ) h] fla%+ eyes & b>b>\s   
language1 until ,i blu%$ z does a       
s*oolboy :5 caught 9 ! act ( /eal+      

apples4 ,nev]!less1 ,i got h] photo4  ,!
 ,pilcomayo1 :i* empties its wat]s into 
! ,p>aguay1 is "o ( ! mo/ my/]i\s (     
riv]s4 ,ris+ 9 ,bolivia1 its c\rse c be 
trac$ d[n = "s consid]able di/ance1 :5 x
 loses itself 9 ! arid wa/es1 or1 z "s  
ma9ta91 fl[s und]gr\nd4 ,its s\rce & m\?
 are kn[n1 b = _m miles ( its passage x 
is invisible4 ,num]\s attempts to solve 
its secrets h be5 made4 ,!y h almo/     
inv>iably end$ disa/r\sly4 ,! ,spani%   
travell]1 ,ib>ete1 set out ) high hopes 
to travel along its banks1 b he &       
sev5te5 m5 p]i%$ 9 ! attempt4 ,two      
half-fami%$1 prematurely-old1 brok5 m5 7
 all t return$ f ! unkn[n wilds4 ,!     
,pilcomayo1 :i* has prov$ itself ! riv] 
( dea? to s _m brave m51 rema9s to ?is  
day unexplor$4 ,! ,indians inhabit+ ^!  
regions are savage 9 ! extreme1 & !     
,fr5* explor]1 ,creveaux1 f\nd !m       
inhuman en\gh to leave him & mo/ ( 8    
p>ty to die ( hung]4 ,! ,tobas & !      
,angaitaes tribes are p]sonally kn[n to 
me1 & ,i speak f exp]i5ce :5 ,i say t m 

cruel m5 ,i h nev] met4 ,! ,arg5t9e     
,gov]nm5t1 aft] tw5ty ye>s ( w>f>e ) !m1
 0 compell$1 9 #aijj1 to )draw ! troops 
f _! outpo/s & leave ! savages 9        
undisput$ possession4 ,if ! foll[+ 0 !  
type ( civilization (f]$ !m1 !n !y are  
bett] left to !mselves3 ,two hundr$     
,indians :o h be5 made prison]s are     
compell$ to be baptiz$4 ,! c]emony takes
 place 9 ! pres5ce ( ! ,gov]nor &       
(ficials ( ! di/rict1 & a great cr[d (  
spectators4 ,! ,indians kneel betwe5 two
 r[s ( soldi]s1 an (fic] ) drawn sword  
compels ea* 9 turn to op5 8 m\?1 into   
:i* a second (fic] ?r[s a h&ful ( salt1 
amid g5]al laught] at ! wry faces ( !   
,indians4 ,!n a ,franciscan padre comes 
) a pail ( wat] & bespr9kles ! prison]s4
 ,!y are !n comm&$ to rise1 & ea*       
receives a piece ( pap] inscrib$ ) 8 new
 "n1 a scapul>y1 &--a glass ( rum       
,footnote3 ,report ( ,briti% & ,=eign   
,bible ,society1 #aijj4 ,:at c\ntries ^!
 = mission>y ent]prise6  ,aft] sail+ =  
eighte5 days up ! riv]1 we tran%ipp$    

into a small] /eam] go+ to ,bolivia4    
,sail+ up ! bay1 y pass1 on ! s\? %ore1 
a small ,brazilian cu/oms h\se1 :i*     
consi/s ( a squ>e ro( ( z9c1 )\t walls1 
support$ on f\r po/s1 /&+ ab\t two met]s
 f ! gr\nd4 ,a ,brazilian1 clo!d only 9 
8 black sk91 came d[n ! h\se ladd] & />$
 at u z we pass$4 ,! complim5t 0        
return$1 al?\gh we _h become some:at    
accu/om$ to t /yle ( dress--or undress4 
,a little f>!r up ! bay1 a :ite /one    
%one out 9 ! sunlight1 m>k+ ! ,bolivian 
b\nd>y1 & giv+ ! "n ( ,pi$ra ,blanca to 
! village4 ,?is l&m>k is %ad$ by a giant
 tam>9d tree1 & num]\s b>rel trees1 or  
palo bora*o1 gr[ 9 ! vic9ity4 ,9 my _m  
w&]+s 9 tropical ,am]ica1 ,i h se5      
num]\s /range trees1 b ^! are           
extraord9>ily s4 ,! trunk comes out ( ! 
gr\nd ) a small circumf]5ce1 !n         
gradually wid5s out to ! proportions (  
an enorm\s b>rel1 & at ! top closes up  
to ! two-foot circumf]5ce aga94 ,two    
bran*es1 l giant arms spread !mselves   
out 9 a mo/ weird-look+ mann] on ! top (

 all4 ,ab\t five leaves gr[ on ea* b\gh1
 &1 in/9ctively1 y consid] !m ! f+]s ( !
 arms4  ,x 0 only ?ree leagues to !     
,bolivian t[n ( ,pi$ra ,blanca1 b !     
,bahia d ,m>5go took ?ree h\rs to /eam !
 %ort di/ance1 = five times we _h to /op
 on ! way1 ow+ to ! be>+s becom+ heat$4 
,^! ! ,brazilian eng9e] cool$ ) pails ( 
wat]4  ,9 ! beautiful ,bay ( ,cac]es1   
mu* ( :i* 0 gr[n ov] ) lotus & ,victoria
 ,regia1 we f9ally an*or$4 ,?is         
,bolivian village is ab\t eighte5 days' 
sail up ! riv] f ,montevideo on !       
seacoa/4  ,*>t]+ ! ,g5]al ,p&o1 a /eam] 
( #be h4p4 & #gj ft4 long1 we !re       
complet$ our prep>ations1 & f9ally /eam$
 away up ! ,alto ,p>aguay1 pr\dly fly+ !
 ,bolivian flag ( r$1 yell[1 & gre54 ,z 
a correct plan ( ! riv] _h to be drawn1 
! /eam] only travell$ by day1 :5 we 7   
able to admire ! gr&eur ( ! sc5]y1 :i*  
daily grew wild] z ! m\nta9s vi$ ) ea*  
o!r 9 lift+ _! rugg$ peaks t[>d heav54  
,f "t to "t we pass$ "o ( ! num]\s isl&s
 ! ,p>aguay is not$ =4 ,^! are clo!d )  

su* luxuriant vegetation t no?+ less ?an
 an army ( m5 ) axes c\ld p5etrate !m4  
,! l& is "o great1 wild1 untidy1        
luxuriant hot-h\se1 built by nature =   
h]self4 ,! puma1 jagu> & wildcat are "h 
at home1 besides ! anaconda & boa       
con/rictor1 :i* gr[ to enorm\s l5g?s4 ,!
 ,yaci ,ret1 or ,isl& ( ! ,moon1 is !   
ideal haunt ( ! jagu>1 & z we pass$ x a 
pair ( ^? royal bea/s 7 play+ on ! %ore 
l two enorm\s cats4 ,z !y caught sight (
 u1 "o leapt into ! mangrove swamp1 out 
( sight1 & ! o!r took a plunge into !   
riv]1 only to rise a few y>ds di/ant &  
receive an explosive bullet 9 8 head4 ,!
 mangrove tree1 ) its twi/+ limbs &     
bright gre5 foliage1 gr[s 9 ! w>m wat] &
 ftid mud ( tropical c\ntries4 ,x is a  
type ( dea?1 = pe/il5ce hangs r\nd x l a
 cl\d4 ,at e>ly morn+ ?is cl\d is a v   
visible "o4 ,! peculi>ity ( ! tree is t 
its hang+ bran*es !mselves take root1 &1
 n\ri%$ by su* putrid exhalations1 x    
quickly spreads4  ,!re 7 also _m float+ 
isl&s ( fanta/ic %ape1 on :i* birds re/$

 9 graceful pose4 ,we saw ! g>za blanca1
 ! aigrets ( :i* are e/eem$ by royalty &
 common] alike1 along ) o!r birds new & 
/range4 ,to sev]al on bo>d :o _h look$ =
 ye>s on no?+ b ! flat ,arg5t9e pampas1 
?is *ange ( sc5]y 0 mo/ exhil>at+1 & :5 
"o morn+ ! sun rose beh9d ! ,gold5      
,m\nta9s1 & illum9at$ peak aft] peak1 ! 
effect 0 glori\s4 ,s />tl+ly gr& 7 "s ( 
! colors t our arti/ m ?an once said he 
d>e n pa9t !m1 z ! _w w\ld ?9k t 8      
color+ 0 n true to nature4  ,_m 7 !     
/range sights we saw on ! %ore4 ,once we
 7 amus$ at ! ludicr\s spectacle ( a    
l>ge bird ( ! /ork family1 :i* _h built 
its ne/ 9 a tree almo/ ov]hang+ ! riv]4 
,! ne/ 0 a collection ( re$s & fea!rs1  
hav+ two holes 9 ! bottom1 ?r\gh :i* !  
legs ( ! bird 7 hang+4 ,! feet1 susp5d$ 
q a y>d bel[ ! ne/1 made "o wond] h[ !  
bird c\ld rise f its sitt+ position4  ,e
 sight ! travell] sees1 h[ev]1 is n s   
amus+4 ,z d>kness creeps ov] e>? & sky1 
& ! pale moonbeams %$ a fitful light1 x 
is mo/ pa!tic to see on ! %ore ! dead   

trunk & limbs ( a tree1 9 ! bran*es (   
:i* has be5 con/ruct$ a rude plat=m1 on 
:i* "s d>k-m9d$ ,indian has rev]5tly    
lift$ ! dead body ( 8 comrade4 ,! night 
w9d1 /irr+ ! dry bones & :i/l+ ?r\gh !  
empty skull1 makes weird music6  ,!     
banks ( ! /ream _h gradually come ne>] &
 ne>] to u1 & ! great riv]1 /ret*+ "o   
hundr$ & fifty miles 9 wid? :]e x p\rs  
its volume ( millions ( tons ( wat] into
 ! sea at ,montevideo1 0 "h a silv]     
ribbon1 n half a mile across4  ,f> be x 
f me to convey ! idea t life 9 ^?       
latitudes is ,ed54 ,! mosquitos & o!r   
insects almo/ drive "o mad4 ,! c\ntry   
may truly be call$ a naturali/s'        
p>adise1 = butt]flies1 beetles1 & creep+
 ?+s are multitud9\s1 b ! climate1 ) its
 damp1 sickly heat1 is :olly unsuit$ to 
! ,anglo-,saxon4 ,day aft] day ! sun 9  
all 8 remorseless /r5g? blazes ^u ! e>?1
 is if desir\s ( sett+ ! :ole _w on     
fire4 ,! !rmomet] 9 ! %ade regi/]$ #aaj1
 #aab & #aad degrees ,fahr5heit1 & on "o
 or two memorable days #aah degrees4 ,! 

heat 9 our little saloon at times rose z
 high z #acj degrees1 & ! p]spiration   
p\r$ d[n 9 /reams on our almo/ nak$     
bodies4 ,we seem$ to be runn+ "r into ! 
braz5 sun itself4  ,"o morn+ ! man on ! 
look-out descri$ de] on ! />bo>d b[1 &  
arms 7 quickly br\ght out1 ready = use4 
,our ,fr5* hunt] 0 j tak+ aim :5 x /ruck
 me t ! de] mov$ 9 a /range way4 ,i     
imm$iately ask$ him to desi/4 ,^? d>k   
=ms 9 ! long grass seem$1 to my some:at 
tra9$ eyes1 nak$ ,indians1 & z we drew  
ne>] to !m s x prov$1 & ! man 0 ?ankful 
he _h )held 8 fire4  ,aft] /eam+ = "s   
di/ance up ! riv] sev]al dug-outs1 fill$
 ) ,guatos ,indians1 paddl$ alongside u4
 ,an e>ly travell] 9 ^? head-wat]s      
wrotes ( ^!3 ,"s ( ! small] tribes 7 b a
 little remov$ f ! wild brutes ( _! own 
jungles4 ,! l[e/ 9 ! scale1 p]haps1 7 ! 
,guatos1 :o dwell to ! nor? ( ! ,rio    
,apa4 ,?is tribe consi/$ ( less ?an "o  
hundr$ p]sons1 & !y 7 z unapproa*able z 
wild bea/s4 ,no o!r p]son1 ,indian or   
=eign]1 c\ld ev] come ne> b !y w\ld fly 

& hide 9 imp5etrable jungles4 ,!y _h no 
writt5 language ( _! own1 & liv$ l      
unreason+ animals1 )\t laws or religion4
  ,! ,guato ,indian seems n[ to be a    
tame & in(f5sive creature1 b well able  
to /rike a b>ga9 9 ! sale ( 8 dug-out   
canoes1 home-made guit>s & o!r curios4  
,9 ! wrobbl+ canoe !y are v dext]\s1 z  
also 9 ! use ( _! long b[s & arr[s2 !   
latt] h po9ts ( %>p5$ bone4 ,:5 hungry1 
!y hunt or fi%4 ,:5 ?ir/y1 !y dr9k f !  
riv]2 & if !y wi% clo?+1 wild cotton    
gr[s 9 abundance4  ,^! ,indians1 liv+1 z
 !y d1 along ! banks ( ! riv] & /reams1 
h rec5tly be5 frequ5tly visit$ by ! :ite
 man on 8 passage along ^? natural      
highways4 ,x is1 !re=e sup]flu\s = me to
 add t !y are n[ correspond+ly          
demoraliz$4 ,x is a mo/ humiliat+ fact t
 j 9 proportion z ! paleface advances   
into l&s hi!rto giv5 up to ! ,indian s  
^? races s9k4 ,?is deg5]ation %[$ itself
 /rik+ly among ! ,guatos 9 _! inord9ate 
desire = ca*aca1 or firewat]4 ,al?\gh   
extremely cauti\s & w>y 9 _! ex*anges to

 u1 refus+ to b>t] a b[ & arr[s = a     
%irt1 yet1 = a bottle ( ca*aca1 !y w\ld 
gladly h giv5 ev5 "o ( _! canoes4 ,^!   
ket*iveyos1 tw5ty or tw5ty-five feet    
long by ab\t tw5ty in*es wide1 !y holl[ 
f ! trunk ( ! c$>1 or lapa*o tree4 ,?is 
is done ) great labor & skill2 yet1 z ,i
 h said1 !y 7 boi/]\sly eag] to ex*ange 
?is week's "w = t :i* !y knew w\ld lead 
!m to fight & kill "o ano!r4  ,z a m>k (
 special favor1 ! *ief invit$ me to _!  
little village1 a few miles di/ant4     
,/epp+ into "o ( _! canoes--a l>ge1 v   
n>r[ boat1 made ( "o tree-trunk holl[$  
out by fire--,i 0 quickly paddl$ by ?ree
 nak$ ,indians up a n>r[ creek1 :i* 0   
almo/ cov]$ ) lotus4 ,! savages1 /&+ 9 !
 canoe1 work$ ! paddles ) a grace &     
elegance :i* ! civiliz$ man w\ld fail to
 acquire1 & ! n>r[ craft %ot ?r\gh !    
wat] at great spe$4 ,! *ief sat 9 sil5ce
 at ! /]n4 ,i occupi$ a palm-fibre mat  
spread = me amid%ips4 ,! v few words (  
,portuguese my companions spoke or      
und]/ood r5d]$ conv]sation difficult1 s 

! /illness 0 brok5 only by ! g5tle spla%
 ( ! paddles4 ,on ea* side ! d5se =e/   
seem$ absolutely imp5etrable1 b we at   
la/ arriv$ at an op5+4 ,z we drew a%ore 
,i notic$ t an ,indian pa? l$ directly  
inl&4  ,leav+ our dug-out moor$ ) a     
fibre rope to a l>ge mangrove tree1 we  
/>t$ to ?read our way ?r\gh ! =e/1 &    
f9ally rea*$ a cle>+4 ,"h we came ^u a  
cr[d ( almo/ nak$ & extremely           
deject$-look+ wom54 ,_m ( ^!1 cat*+     
sight ( me1 sp$ into ! jungle l fright5$
 de]4 ,! *ief's wife1 h[ev]1 at a ^w f  
him1 receiv$ me k9dly1 & aft] accept+ a 
brass necklace ) evid5t pleasure1 %[$   
h]self v affable4 ,poor lo/ ,guatos6 ,_!
 deject$ c\nt5ances1 mis]able grass     
huts1 alive ) v]m91 & _! extreme pov]ty1
 7 mo/ t\*+4 ,inhabit+1 z !y d1 "o ( !  
hotte/ & dampe/ places on ! e>?'s       
surface1 :]e mosquitos are numb]less1 ! 
wond] is t !y exi/ at all4 ,truly1 man  
is a /range be+1 :o c adapt himself to  
equatorial heat or pol> frigidity4 ,!   
,guatos' *ief bus9ess 9 life seem$ to   

consi/ 9 sitt+ on fibre mats spread on !
 gr\nd1 & driv+ away ! blood?ir/y       
mosquitos f _! b>e backs4 ,= ?is !y use 
a fan ( _! own manufacture1 made f wild 
cotton1 :i* !re seems to ab\nd4 ,writ+ (
 mosquitos1 let me say ^! ,indian       
specim5s 7 a t]ror to u all4 ,:at numb]s
 we kill$6 ,i c\ld write ?is acc\nt 9 _!
 blood4 ,x 0 my blood1 ?\gh--be=e !y got
 x6 ,m5 :o hunt ! tig] 9 cool brav]y    
boil$ ) indignation be=e ^! awful pe/s1 
:i* /abb$ & /ung ) m>vell\s p]si/5cy1 & 
di/urb$  ! solitude ( nature ) _!       
incessant humm+4 ,i write ! ^w incessant
 advis$ly1 = ,i le>n$ t !re are sev]al  
k9ds ( mosquitos4 ,"s "w by day & o!rs  
by night4 ,naturali/s tell u t only !   
female mosquito bites4 ,did !y take a   
p>ticul> lik+ to u because we 7 all     
males8  ,"s ( ! ,indians pa9t _! nak$   
bodies 9 squ>es1 g5]ally ) r$ & black   
pigm5t4 ,_! huts 7 9 "s cases l>ge1 b v 
poorly con/ruct$4 ,:5 any memb]s ( !    
tribe are tak5 sick !y are suppos$ to be
 possess$ by a /rong] evil p[]1 & !     

sickness is />v$ out4 ,:5 ! malady flies
 away ! life g5]ally accompanies x4 ,!  
dead are buri$ "u ! e>? inside ! huts1 &
 9 "s ( ! dwell+s graves are q num]\s4  
,?is cu/om ( int]ior burial has probably
 be5 adopt$ because ! wild animals ( !  
=e/ w\ld o!rwise eat ! corpse4 ,horrible
 to relate1 _! own half-wild dogs       
sometimes dev\r ! dead1 ?\gh an old]    
memb] ( ! tribe is g5]ally left home to 
m\nt gu>d4  ,see+ by ! num]\s g\rds     
scatt]$ ar\nd t !y 7 dr9k+ *i*a1 ,i     
solicit$ "s1 be+ anxi\s to ta/e !       
bev]age :i* _h be5 us$ s _m c5turies    
be=e by ! old ,incas4 ,! wife ( ! *ief  
imm$iately tore (f a bran* ( ! fea!r    
palm gr[+ beside h]1 &1 c]ta9ly )9 a    
m9ute1 made a basket1 into :i* %e plac$ 
a small g\rd4 ,go+ to ! o!r side ( !    
cle>+1 %e comm5c$1 ) ! agility ( a      
monkey1 to asc5d a long sapl+ :i* _h be5
 laid 9 a slant+ position aga9/ a tall  
palm tree4 ,! long1 graceful leaves (   
?is cabbage palm _h be5 torn op51 & !   
he>t ?us left to f]m5t4 ,f ! holl[      

cabbage ! woman fill$ ! g\rd1 & l[]$ x  
to me by a fibre rope4 ,! liquid ,i f\nd
 to be ?ick & milky1 & ! ta/e n unlike  
cid]4  ,prescott tells u t ,atahuallpa1 
! ,p]uvian mon>*1 came to see !         
conqu]or1 ,piz>ro1 quaff+ *i*a f gold5  
goblets borne by 8 att5dants4 ,footnote3
 ,e/e ,embajador traia s]vicio de ,s5or1
 i c9co o seis ,vasos de ,oro f9o1 con  
que bebia1 i con ellos daba a beb] a los
 ,espanoles de la *i*a que              
traia4--,x]ez4 ,gold5 goblets did n mean
 mu* to ,k+ ,atahuallpa1 h[ev]1 = 8     
palace ( five hundr$ diff]5t ap>tm5ts is
 said to h be5 til$ ) beat5 gold4  ,9 ^!
 ,guato ,indians ,i obs]v$ a m>k$       
diff]5ce to any o!rs ,i _h visit$1 9 t  
!y p]mitt$ ! hair to gr[ on _! faces4 ,!
 *ief 0 ( q patri>*al aspect1 ) full    
be>d & mild1 intellig5t-look+ eyes4 ,!  
savages inhabit+ ! ,*aco consid] ?is    
cu/om extremely dirty4  ,be=e leav+ ^! p
 ,i procur$ "s ( _! b[s & arr[s1 & also 
sev]al clev]ly wov5 palm mats & cotton  
fans4  ,"s liquor our cook gave away _h 

be5 tak5 out by ! braves to _! wom5 9   
ano!r encampm5t4 ,^! spirits _h s       
inflam$ ! o!rwise retir+1 mode/ females 
t !y1 ) ! m51 return$ to ! /eam]1       
clamor+ = m4 ,all ! /ores1 along ) "s   
liquors we c>ri$1 7 "u my c>e1 & ,i kept
 !m securely lock$ up1 b 9 my abs5ce at 
! ,indian camp ! /ore-room _h be5 brok5 
op51 & our m5 & ! ,indians--m5 &        
wom5--_h drunk long & deep4 ,a sc5e l   
,b$lam1 or ,dante's ,inf]no1 0 tak+     
place :5 ,i return$4 ,will+ z !y 7 to   
li/5 to my c\nsel & admit t ,i 0 c]ta9ly
 a great :ite tea*]1 ) sup]ior wisdom1  
on ?is love = liquor & its debas+       
consequ5ces !y w\ld he> no words4 ,!    
wom5 & girls1 l ! m51 w\ld clamor = !   
raw alcohol1 & gulp x d[n 9 long        
draughts4 ,:5 ard5t spirits are m s\ght 
aft] by wom5 & girls ?an are beads &    
look+-glasses x surely %[s a t]ribly    
deprav$ ta/e4 ,ev5 ! *att]+ monkeys 9 ! 
trees ov]head w\ld spurn ! poison &     
eag]ly clut* ! bright tr9ket4 ,p]haps ! 
look+-glasses ,i gave ! poor females    

w\ld1 aft] ! orgies 7 ov]1 s]ve to %[ !m
 t _! beauty 0 n increas$ by ?is bea/ly 
c>\sal1 & ?us be a means ( bless+4 ,x   
may be ask$1 ,c ! savage be possess$ (  
pride & ( self-e/eem8 ,i unhesitat+ly   
answ] yes1 z ,i h _h abundant           
opportunity ( see+4 ,!y w /rut ) peacock
 pride :5 we>+ a specially gaudy-color$ 
headdress1 al?\gh t may be _! only      
article ( attire4  ,hav+ on bo>d f> m   
salt ?an we ourselves ne$$1 ,i 0 enabl$ 
to g5]\sly di/ribute mu* ( t invaluable 
commodity among !m4 ,t also1 work+ 9 a  
diff]5t way1 might be a means ( re/or+  
!m to a normal s\ndness ( m9d aft] we   
left4  ,poor lo/ creatures6 ,= ?is      
draught ( ! :ite man's poison1 f> m     
t]rible to !m ?an ! deadly night%ade (  
_! =e/s1 m dang]\s ?an ! v5om ( !       
loa?some s]p5t glid+ across _! pa?1 !y  
are will+ to sell body or s\l4 ,s\l1 did
 ,i say8 ,!y h nev] he>d ( t4 ,to !m1 s 
f> z ,i c\ld asc]ta91 a future life is  
unkn[n4 ,! explor] has p5etrat$ "s      
little way into _! d>k =e/s 9 se>* (    

rubb]1 or any?+ else :i* x w\ld pay to  
exploit1 b ! mission>y ( ! ,cross has   
nev] s\ght to illum9e _! d>k] m9ds4 ,!y 
live _! little day & g out into ! unkn[n
 unconsci\s ( ! fact t ,"o call$ ,jesus1
 :o 0 ! ,inc>nate ,god1 di$ to r$eem !m4
 ,z a travell]1 ,i h (t5 wond]$ :y m5   
%\ld be will+ to pay me hundr$s ( doll>s
 to explore ^? regions = ultimate       
worldly ga91 & none %\ld ev] (f] to     
employ me 9 proclaim+ ! greate/ wond] ( 
all ! ages--! /ory ( ,calv>y--= et]nal  
ga94 ,aft] all1 are ! ,indians m bl9d to
 ! future ?an we are8 ,yet1 /range to   
say1 we pr(ess to believe 9 ! tea*+s ( t
 ,"o :o inculcat$ ! practice ( lay+ up  
treasure 9 heav51 :ile !y h n ev5 he>d  
,8 "n4 ,= love ( ga9 m5 h be5 will+ to  
accompany me ?r\gh ! mo/ deadly         
fev]-bre$+ morass1 or to brave ! poison$
 arr[s ( ! lynx-ey$ ,indian1 b few h ev]
 (f]$ to g & tell ( ,him :om !y pr(ess  
to s]ve4  ,! suffocat+ atmosph]e q      
preclud$ ! idea ( writ+1 = a p51 dipp$ 9
 ink1 w\ld dry be=e rea*+ ! pap]1 & !   

latt] be saturat$ ) p]spiration 9 a few 
seconds2 s ^! obs]vations 7 p5n$ lat]4  
,s f> z ,i c\ld asc]ta91 ! ,romi% ,*ur* 
has nev] t\*$ ! ,guatos1 &1 not)/&+ all 
,i h said ab\t !m1 ,i unhesitat+ly      
affirm t x is bett] s4 ,geo4 ,r4 ,witte1
 mission>y to ,brazil1 says3 ,) "o      
exception1 all ! prie/s ) :om ,i came 9 
contact 7:5 on a j\rney ?r\gh ,nor!rn   
,brazil7 7 immoral1 drunk51 & ignorant4 
,! tribes :o h come "u prie/ly c>e are  
decid$ly inf]ior 9 morals1 indu/ry1 &   
ord] to ! tribes :o refuse to h any?+ to
 d ) ! :ites4 ,! ,*>5tes & ,ap9ages h   
be51 = ye>s1 "u ! c>e ( ,ca?olic        
fri>s--?is is ! way ,i f\nd !m3 bo? m5 &
 wom5 walk ab\t nak$4  ,we he>d n "o    
contradiction ( ! g5]al te/imony t ! p  
:o 7 n "u ! influ5ce ( ! ,roman ,ca?olic
 ,*ur* z x is 9 ,s4 ,am]ica 7 bett]     
morally ?an ^? :o 74 ,footnote3 ,rob]t  
,e4 ,spe]1 ,missions 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,9
 ,*ri/5dom organs peal out ! an!ms (    
,div9e love1 & well-dress$ wor%ipp]s    
*ant 9 h>moni\s unison1 ,"l1 incl9e our 

he>ts to keep ,?y law4 ,t law says3 ,?\ 
%alt love ?y neighbor z ?yself4 ,to !   
"q3 ,:o is my neighbor8 ! ,div9e voice  
answ]s3 ,a c]ta9 man4 ,may he n be "o ( 
^! neglect$ ,indians8     ,,*apt] ,,vi4 
,,arrival ,,at ,,! ,,lake4    ,x sleeps 
among a hundr$ hills    ,:]e no man ev] 
trod1   ,& only ,nature's music fills   
,! sil5ces ( ,god4   ,aft] go+ ab\t two 
?\s& ?ree hundr$ miles up ?is s]p5t9e   
riv]1 we discov]$ ! entrance to ! lake4 
,_m _h be5 ! conjectures & c\nsels (    
w\ld-be advis]s :5 we />t$4 ,"s said t  
!re 0 no entrance to ! lake f ! riv]2   
o!rs1 t !re 0 n suffici5t dep? ( wat] = 
! /eam] to pass ?r\gh4 ,on our port b[  
rose fr[n+ rocks ( =bidd+ aspect4 ,draw+
 ne>]1 we notic$1 ) m+l$ feel+s (       
curiosity & wond]1 t ! face ( ^! rocks 0
 rudely c>v$ by unmi/akably ,indian art4
 ,!re 7 portray$ a ris+ sun1 tig]s'     
feet1 birds' feet1 etc4 ,:y 7 !y ?us    
c>v$8 ,are ^? rocks ! ev]la/+ record]s (
 "s old hi/ory--"s de$ ( ,indian d>+ 9  
days ( old8 ,:at ^! hi]oglyphics signify

 we may nev] "k2 ! workman is gone1 & 8 
/one hamm] is buri$ ) him4 ,to tw5tie?  
c5tury civilization 8 c>v+ tells no?+4  
,no ,indians inhabit ! %ores ( ! lake   
n[1 p]haps because ( ?is writ+ on !     
wall4  ,) ! leadsman 9 8 place we sl[ly 
& cauti\sly ent]$ ! unexplor$ lake1 &   
?us = ! fir/ "t 9 ! _w's hi/ory its     
wat]s 7 pl\gh$ by a /eam]'s keel4  ,soon
 aft] our arrival ! diff]5t gu>ds 7 told
 (f = ! sil5t wat*es4 ,night %ut 9 ^u ! 
lake1 & all nature slept4 ,! only lights
 on %ore 7 ^? ( ! fire-flies z !y danc$ 
?r\gh ! myrtle b\ghs4 ,! />s 9 ! heav5s 
tw9kl$ above u4 ,n[ & aga9 an alligator 
?ru/ 8 huge1 ugly nose out ( ! wat] &   
yawn$1 ?us di/urb+ = ! mom5t its placid 
surface1 :i* ! pale moon illum9at$ ) an 
e!real light2 o!rwise /illness reign$1  
or1 r1 a calm my/]i\s peace :i* 0 deep &
 pr(\nd4 ,someh[1 ! feel+ crept ^u u t  
we _h become deta*$ f ! _w1 ?\gh yet we 
liv$4 ,aft]w>ds1 :5 ! tig]s ,footnote3  
,jagu>s are inv>iably call$ tig]s 9 ,s\?
 ,am]ica4 on %ore _h sc5t$ our pres5ce1 

sleep 0 (t5 brok5 by angry ro>s com+ f !
 bea*1 ne> :i* we lay at an*or2 b be=e  
dawn our noisy visitors always dep>t$1  
leav+ only _! footpr9ts4 ,e>ly next     
morn+1 :ile ! gre5 moon 0 /ill %9+ 7!   
color ( ?is heav5ly orb p]plex$ u1 x 0 a
 pure bottle gre571 ea* "o arose to 8   
"w4 ,?is 0 no pleasure excursion1 &     
duties1 _m & ardu\s1 lay be=e !         
explor]s4 ,! hunt] salli$ =? ) 8 gun1 & 
return$ lad5 ) pheasant & m\nta9 h51 &  
ov] 8 %\ld] a f9e duck1 :i*1            
un=tunately1 h[ev]1 _h already begun to 
smell--! heat 0 s int5se4 ,9 8 w&]+s he 
_h come ^u a huge tapir1 half eat5 by a 
tig]1 & saw footpr9ts ( t "l ( ! =e/ 9  
all directions4  ,let me "h say1 t to   
our hunt] we 7 indebt$ = _m a good di%1 
& :5 n aft] game he lur$ f ! dep?s ( !  
lake _m a f9e p]* or turbot4 ,fi%+ is an
 art 9 :i* ,i am n v skill$1 b "o ev5+  
,i borr[$ 8 l9e4 ,aft] a few mom5ts'    
wait+ ,i _h a bite1 & comm5c$ to haul 9 
my cat*1 :i* /ruggl$1 kick$1 & pull$    
until ,i %\t$ = help4 ,my fi% 0 "o ( our

 ,p>aguayan sailors1 :o = sport _h      
slipp$ d[n into ! wat] on ! o!r side ( !
 /eam]1 &1 div+ to my cord1 _h grasp$ x 
) bo? h&s4 ,n e fi%] cat*es a man6      
,lake ,gaiba is a /ret* ( wat] t5 miles 
long1 ) a n>r[ m\? op5+ into ! ,riv]    
,p>aguay4 ,! lake is surr\nd$ by        
m\nta9s1 clad 9 luxuriant v]dure on !   
,bolivian side1 & /&+ out 9 b>e1 rugg$  
l9es on ! ,brazilian side4 ,! b\nd>y ( !
 two c\ntries cuts ! wat] into two      
unequal halves4 ,! mo/ prom95t ( !      
m\nta9s are n[ m>k$ ^u ! exhau/ive *>t  
drawn out4 ,_! *ri/5+ has be5 a t>dy "o1
 = :o c tell :at ages h pass$ s9ce !y   
fir/ came into be+8 ,look+ at ,m\nt     
,ray1 ! highe/ ( ^! peaks1 at sunset1 ! 
eye is />tl$ by ! /range hues & ri* t9ts
 !re reflect$4 ,frequ5tly we ask$       
ourselves3 ,is t ! sun's radiance1 or   
are ^? rocks ! fabl$ ',cliffs ( ,opal'  
m5 h se>*$ = 9 va98 ,we (t5 sat 9 a     
wond] ( delight gaz+ at ! sc5e1 until ! 
sun sank out ( sight1 tak+ ! opal cliffs
 ) x1 & leav+ u only ) ! dream4  ,on !  

%ores ( ! lake ! bea* is cov]$ ) gold5  
s& & /udd$ ) innum]able little /ones1   
cle> z cry/al1 :i* sc9tillate ) all !   
colors ( ! ra9b[4 ,among ^! pebbles ,i  
f\nd sev]al arr[heads ( jasp]4 ,9 o!r   
p>ts ! primeval =e/ creeps d[n to ! v   
m>g91 & ! tree-roots ba! 9 ! w>m wat]s4 
,look+ across ! quiv]+ heat-haze1 ! eye 
re/s ^u palms ( _m v>ieties1 & giant    
trees cov]$ ) or*ids & p>asites1 ! sight
 ( :i* w\ld completely intoxicate !     
horticulturi/4 ,butt]flies1 gorge\s 9   
all ! colors ( ! ra9b[1 flit f fl[] to  
fl[]2 & monkeys1 ) curi\sly human faces1
 />e at ! /rang] f ! tree-tops4 ,:ite   
cotton trees1 tam>9ds1 & /rangely %ap$  
fruits gr[ ev]y:]e1 & r\nd ab\t all are 
entw9$ fe/oons ( trail+ creep]s1 or !   
lovelie/ ( sc>let mi/letoe1 9 :i*       
humm+-birds build _! ne/s4 ,blue macaws1
 p>rots1 & a ?\s& o!r birds fly to &    
fro1 & ! black fire-bird d>ts across !  
sky1 mak+ lightn+ ) e flutt] ( 8 w+s1   
:i*1 und]nea?1 are pa9t$ a bright1 vivid
 r$4 ,s]p5ts ( all colors & sizes creep 

sil5tly 9 ! und]gr[?1 or hang f !       
bran*es ( ! trees1 _! em]ald eyes ev] on
 ! al]t2 & ! broad-w+$ eagle so>s above 
all1 consci\s ( 8 maje/y4  ,"h & !re !  
coa/ is brok5 by sil5t /reams fl[+ into 
! lake f ! unexplor$ regions beyond4 ,^!
 ria*os are cov]$ ) lotus leaves &      
fl[]s1 & also ! ,victoria ,regia 9 all  
its gorge\s beauty4 ,papyrusa1 re$s &   
aquatic plants ( all descriptions gr[ on
 ! banks ( ! /reams1 mak+ a home = !    
:ite /ork or :it] g>za4 ,look+ into !   
cle> w>m wat]s y see little gold5 & r$  
fi%es1 & on ! b$ ( ! /ream %ells ( pe>l4
  ,on ! s\? side ( ! ,gaiba1 at ! foot (
 ! m\nta9s1 ! bea* slopes g5tly d[n1 &  
is cov]$ ) gold5 s&1 9 :i* cry/als      
sp>kle z ?\gh set 9 f9e gold by "s cunn+
 workman4 ,a ,workman1 yes--b n ( e>?1 =
 nature is "h unt\*$1 unspoilt z yet by 
man1 & ! travell] c look "r away f x to 
its ,creator4  ,dur+ our /ay 9 ^!       
regions ! c\rses ( sev]al ( ! l>g]      
/reams 7 trac$ = "s di/ance4 ,on !      
,brazilian side !re 0 a riv] up :i* we  

/eam$4 ,n be+ acqua9t$ ) ! *annel1 we _h
 ! mis=tune to /ick = two days on a     
tosca reef1 :i* ext5d$ a di/ance (      
sixty-five feet4 ,footnote3 ,! f9d+ (   
tosca at ?is po9t confirms ! ext5t inl& 
( ! anci5t ,pampean sea4--,colonel      
,*ur*1 9 ,proce$+s ( ! ,royal           
,geographical ,society1 ,janu>y1 #aijb4 
,dur+ ?is "t1 a curi\s ph5om5on pres5t$ 
itself to our notice4 ,9 "o day we      
cle>ly saw ! riv] fl[ = six h\rs to !   
nor?-we/1 & = ano!r six h\rs to !       
s\?-ea/4 ,?is1 ( c\rse1 prov$ to u t !  
riv]'s c\rse dep5ds on ! w9d4  ,on !    
bank1 "r 9 front ( :]e we lay1 0 a gn>l$
 old tree1 :i* seem$ to be ! home1 or   
p>liam5t h\se1 ( all ! p>oquets 9 !     
neighborhood4 ,scores ( !m kept up an   
incessant *att] ! :ole "t4 ,9 ! tree 7  
two or ?ree hang+ ne/s1 look+ l l>ge    
sacks susp5d$ f ! b\ghs4 ,t5 or tw5ty   
birds lay 9 ! same ne/1 & y might f9d 9 
!m1 at ! "o "t1 eggs j laid1 birds      
rec5tly hat*$1 & o!rs ready to fly4     
,sitt+ & re>+ g on concurr5tly4 ,i      

procur$ a tame pair ( ?is lovely bre$ ( 
p>oquets f ! ,guatos4 ,_! prevail+ color
 0 em]ald gre51 :ile ! w+s & tail 7 made
 up ( t9ts ( orange1 sc>let1 & blue1 &  
ar\nd ! back ( ! bird 0 a gold5 %e5     
r>ely f\nd ev5 9 equatorial specim5s4   
,:e!r ! bird is kn[n to orni?ologi/s or 
n ,i _c tell4 ,"o night our camp 0 pit*$
 ne> an an?ill1 inhabit$ by innum]able  
millions ( ^? insects4 ,none ( u slept  
well1 =1 al?\gh our hammocks 7 slung1 z 
we ?\ght1 away f !m1 !y tr\bl$ u mu*4   
,:at 0 my horror next morn+ :5 ! sun1   
in/ead ( light+ up ! ra9b[ t9ts ( my    
birds1 %[$ only a black mov+ mass (     
ants6 ,my p>rots _h lit]ally be5 eat5   
alive by !m6  ,b ,i am w&]+ on & ! %ip  
is /ill agr\nd on ! reef6 ,aft] mu*     
haul+ & pull+ & break+ ( cables1 %e at  
la/ 0 got (f into deep wat]4 ,we _h n   
proce$$ f>1 h[ev]1 :5 ano!r %ock made ! 
vessel quiv]4 ,7 we agr\nd aga98 ,no1 ! 
/eam] _h simply pu%$ a lazy alligator   
out ( its way1 & he res5t$ ! insult by a
 diabolical sc[l at u4  ,cont9u+ on our 

way1 we ent]$ ano!r body ( hi!rto       
unexplor$ wat]1 a fairy spot1 cov]$ )   
float+ isl&s ( lotus1 an*or$ ) aquatic  
cables & surr\nd$ by palm groves4 ,on ! 
%all[1 pebbly %ore might be se51 "h &   
!re1 sc>let flam+oes4 ,^! beautiful     
birds /ood on "o leg1 knee deep1 dream+ 
( _! en*ant$ home4 ,truly x is a p]fect 
p>adise1 b x is almo/ z inaccessible z !
 ,p>adise :i* we all seek4 ,:at long-lo/
 civilizations h rul$ ^! n[ des]t$      
solitudes8 ,p5etrate into ! d>k1 dank   
=e/1 z ,i h done1 & ask ! "q4 ,! only   
answ] is ! h[l+ ( ! monkeys & ! scream+ 
( ! cockatoos4 ,y may />t :5 y di/9ctly 
he> a bell toll+1 b x is no call to     
wor%ip 9 "s /ately old ,inca temple )   
its gold5 sun & silv] moon z deities4 ,x
 is ! wond]ful bell-bird1 :i* c make    
itself he>d ?ree miles away1 b x is f\nd
 only :]e man is n4 ,ru9s ( ! old ,incan
 & old] pre-,incan civilizations are    
come across1 cov]$ n[ ) d5se jungle1 b  
_! build]s h disappe>$4 ,to h left beh9d
 !m until ?is day ru9s :i* rank ) !     

pyramids = ext5t1 & ,k>nak = gr&eur1    
proves _! intellig5ce4  ,! peculi> rasp+
 noise y n[ he> 9 ! und]gr[? has no?+ to
 d ) busy civilization--'tis only !     
rattlesnake draw+ 8 slimy l5g? among !  
dead leaves or tangl$ re$s4 ,no1 all t  
is pa/1 & ?is is an old new _w inde$1 & 
romance mu/ n rob y ( self possession1 =
 ! rattle means t 9 ! enc\nt] ei!r he   
dies--or y4  ,mean:ile ! "w on %ore     
progress$4 ,pa?s 7 cut 9 diff]5t        
directions & ! wond]s ( nature laid b>e4
 ,! r+ ( ! axe & ! s\nd ( fall+ trees   
m>k$ ! comm5cem5t ( civilization 9 ^?   
f>-(f regions4 ,ev] & anon a l\d report 
rang out f ! woods1 = x might almo/ be  
said t ! m5 work$ ) ! axe 9 "o h& & a   
rifle 9 ! o!r4 ,once !y />t$ a giant    
tapir tak+ 8 aft]noon snooze4 ,! bea/   
lazily got up & made (f1 b n be=e he _h 
turn$ 8 pi]c+ eyes on ! intrud]s1 z ?\gh
 wond]+ :at new animals !y 74 ,surely   
?is 0 8 fir/ sight ( ! lords ( creation1
 & probably 8 la/1 = a bullet quickly   
:izz$ aft] him4 ,ano!r day ! m5 %ot a   

puma se>*+ = its prey1 & num]\s 7 !     
birds1 bea/s & reptiles t fell be=e our 
arms4 ,! v v5om\s j>acuc1 a snake eight 
to twelve feet long1 hav+ a d\ble r[ (  
tee? 9 ea* jaw1 is q common "h4  ,! =e/s
 are full ( birds & bea/s 9 inf9ite     
v>iety1 z also ( ^? creatures :i* seem  
nei!r bird nor bea/4 ,!re are l>ge black
 h[l+ monkeys1 & little black-fac$ ones 
) preh5sile tails1 by means ( :i* !y sw+
 9 mid-air or jump f tree to tree 9 %e] 
lightness ( he>t4 ,!re is also ! slo?1  
:i*1 z its "n implies1 is pa9fully      
delib]ate 9 its motions4 ,7 ,i a        
,scot*man ,i %\ld say t ,i d9na ?9k t 9 
a' nature !re is a mair curi\s] cratur4 
,sidney ,smi?'s summ>y ( ?is /range     
animal is t x moves susp5d$1 re/s       
susp5d$1 sleeps susp5d$1 & passes its   
:ole life 9 susp5se4 ,?is latt] /ate may
 also aptly describe ! condition ( !    
travell] 9 ^? regions2 = man1 brave ?\gh
 he may be1 does n reli% a vis--vis ) ! 
enorm\s anaconda1 also to be se5 !re at 
mo/ inconv5i5t times4 ,i 0 able to      

procure ! sk9s ( two ( ^! giant s]p5ts4 
,! lead] ( ! =e/ gang1 a ,p>aguayan1    
wore r\nd 8 neck a cotton scapul> b\ght 
f ! prie/ be=e he />t$ on ! exp$ition4  
,?is 0 suppos$ to save him f all dang]s1
 se5 & unse54 ,poor man1 he 0 a good    
,roman ,ca?olic1 & (t5 c\nt$ 8 beads1 b 
he 0 an invet]ate li> & ?ief4  ,tak+    
into consid]ation ! wild c\ntry1 & !    
adv5tur\s mission :i* _h br\ght u       
toge!r1 our m5 7 n at all a bad class4  
,"o ( !m1 h[ev]1 a black ,brazilian1 us$
 to boa/ at times t he _h kill$ 8 fa!r  
:ile he slept4 ,9 ! quiet ( ! ev5+ h\r  
he w\ld relate ! /ory ) unnatural gu/o4 
,we g5]ally slept on ! deck ( ! /eam]1  
ea* "u a ?9 nett+1 :ile ! millions (    
mosquitos buzz$ outside--& inside :5 !y 
c\ld /eal a m>*4 ,mosquitos8 ,:y        
mosquitos  la ,p>is 0 "o ( ! items on   
our m5u "o day4 ,! c\rse 0 n altoge!r an
 imag9>y "o ei!r4 ,hav+ ! good =tune to 
possess c&les1 ,i us$ sometimes to read 
"u my gauzy canopy4 ,?is w\ld soon      
become s black ) insects ( all          

descriptions z to %ut out f my sight !  
outside _w4  ,aft] c>efully survey+ !   
,bolivian %ore1 we fix$ ^u a site = !   
future port & t[n4 ,footnote3 ,!        
latitude ( ,port ,quij>ro is #ag #dg'   
#ce1 & ! longitude1 we/ ( ,gre5wi*1 #eg 
#dd' #ch4 ,height above ! sea1 #eeh     
feet4 ,plant+ a hugh palm 9 ! gr\nd1 ) a
 long bamboo nail$ to ! cr[n1 we !n     
solemnly unfurl$ ! ,bolivian flag4 ,?is 
_h be5 made expressly = ! exp$ition by !
 h&s ( ,seora ,quij>ro1 wife ( !        
,bolivian m9i/] resid+ 9 ,bu5os ,ayres4 
,z ! sun = ! fir/ "t %one ^u ! brilliant
 colors ( ! flag1 nature's /illness 0   
brok5 by a good old ,engli% hurrah1 :ile
 ! hunt] & sev]al o!rs dis*>g$ _! arms 9
 ! air1 until ! p>rots & monkeys 9 !    
neighborhood mu/ h wond]$ 7or is wond]+ 
only res]v$ = civiliz$ man87 :at new ?+ 
_h come to pass4 ,!re we1 a small       
company ( m5 9 nature's solitudes1 ea*  
sign$ 8 "n to ! ,act ( ,f\ndation ( a   
t[n1 :i* 9 all probability w mean a new 
era = ,bolivia4 ,we fully demon/rat$ !  

fact t ,pu]to ,quij>ro w be an ideal    
port1 ?r\gh :i* ! :ole comm]ce (        
s\?-ea/]n ,bolivia c to advantage pass4 
,next day ! ,secret>y drew out f\r      
copies ( ?is ,act4 ,"o 0 = ,8 ,excell5cy
 ,g5]al ,p&o1 ,presid5t ( ! ,bolivian   
,republic2 ano!r = ! ,mayor ( ,holy     
,cross1 ! ne>e/ ,bolivian t[n1 #cej     
miles di/ant2 a ?ird = ,seor ,quij>ro2  
:ile ! f\r? 0 enclos$ 9 a /one bottle & 
buri$ at ! foot ( ! flag/aff1 !re to    
await ! erection ( ! fir/ build+4 ,?us a
 comm5cem5t has be5 made2 ! lake & %ores
 are n[ explor$4 ,! "w has be5 ?or\ghly 
done1 & ! sweat ( ! br[ 0 n /9t$1 = !   
birds ( ! air hov]$ ar\nd ! !odolite1   
ev5 on ! top ( ! highe/ adjac5t m\nta94 
,footnote3 ,! op5+ ( ! c\ntry mu/1 f its
 geographical situation1 be productive (
 political consequ5ces ( ! fir/         
magnitude to ,s\? ,am]ica4--,report ( ! 
,royal ,geographical ,society1 ,janu>y1 
#aijb4  ,at la/1 ?is "w ov] & an        
exhau/ive *>t ( ! lake drawn up1 tools &
 t5ts collect$1 specim5s ( soil1 /ones1 

iron1 etc41 pack$ & labell$1 we prep>$ =
 dep>ture4  ,! wea!r _h be5             
exceptionally w>m & we _h all suff]$ mu*
 f ! sun's v]tical rays1 b t[>ds ! end (
 our /ay ! heat 0 swelt]+--kill+6 ,! sun
 0 n conf9$ to "o spot 9 ! heav5s1 z 9 m
 temp]ate climes2 "h he fill$ all ! sky1
 & he scor*$ u pitilessly6 ,only at e>ly
 morn+1 :5 ! ea/]n sky blu%$ ) w>m gold 
& rose t9ts1 or at ev51 :5 ! great      
liquid ball ( fire dropp$ beh9d ! di/ant
 violet-color$ hills1 c\ld y locate him4
 ,does ! ,indian wor%ip ?is awful maje/y
 out ( fe>1 z ! ,*9aman wor%ips ! devil8
  ,next morn+ dawn$ /ill & port5t\s4 ,n 
a zephyr breeze /irr$ ! leaves ( !      
trees4 ,! swelt]+ heat turn$ to a       
suffocat+ "o4 ,z ! morn+ dragg$ on we   
f\nd x m & m difficult to brea!2 !re    
seem$ to be no?+ to inflate our lungs4  
,by aft]noon we />$ helplessly at ea*   
o!r & gasp$ z we lay simm]+ on ! deck4  
,7 we to be asphyxiat$ !re aft] all8 ,i 
_h kn[n z _m z two hundr$ a day to die 9
 "o ,s\? ,am]ican city f ?is cause4     

,surely mortal m5 nev] w5t ?r\gh su*    
awful1 airless heat z ?is & liv$4 ,we _h
 be5 p]mitt$ to discov] ! lake1 & if !  
_w he>d ( our dea?1 w\ld t flippant     
rem>k be us$ aga91 z ) previ\s explor]s1
 ,to make omelettes eggs mu/ be brok58  
,h[ev]1 we 7 n to melt4 ,t[>ds ev5+ !   
b>omet]1 :i* _h be5 fall+ all day1 w5t  
l[] & l[]4 ,all creation 0 /ill4 ,n a   
s\nd broke ! awful quiet2 only 9 our e>s
 !re seem$ to be an unnatural s++ :i* 0 
pa9ful1 & we clos$ our eyes 9 we>9ess1 =
 ! sun seem$ to h bli/]$ ! v eyeballs4  
,:5 we mu/]$ up suffici5t en]gy to turn 
our a*+ eyes to ! heav5s1 we saw black  
/orm-cl\ds pil+ !mselves "o above ano!r1
 & hope1 :i* spr+s et]nal 9 ! human     
brea/1 saw 9 !m our hope1 our salvation4
  ,! fall ( ! b>omet]1 & ! h[l+ ( !     
monkeys on %ore also1 w>n$ u ( !        
approa*+ tempe/1 s we prep>$ = em]g5cies
 by secur+ ! vessel =e & aft "u ! lee ( 
a rugg$ si]ra be=e ! /orm broke--& break
 x did 9 all its might4  ,sudd5ly ! w9d 
swept d[n ^u u ) irresi/ible fury1 & we 

brea!d--we liv$ aga94 ,s t]rific 0 !    
sweep t giant trees1 :i* _h brav$ a     
c5tury's /orms1 fell to ! e>? ) a cra%4 
,! hurricane 0 truly fe>ful4 ,soon !    
wat]s ( ! lake 7 la%$ into foam4 ,great 
drops ( ra9 fell 9 bl9d+ torr5ts1 & e   
fre% roll ( ?und] seem$ to make !       
m\nta9s tremble1 :ile ! lightn+ cleft   
asund] giant trees at "o mighty /roke4  
,illu/ration3 ,,victoria ,,regia1 ,,!   
,,_w',s ,,l>ge/ ,,fl[]   ,9 ! old leg5ds
 ( ! ,inca1 read on ! ,quipus1 we f9d t 
,pa*acamac & ,viraco*a1 ! highe/ gods1  
plac$ 9 ! heav5s ,nu/a1 a royal pr9cess1
 arm$ ) a pit*] ( wat]1 :i* %e 0 to p\r 
ov] ! e>? :5ev] x 0 ne$$4 ,:5 ! ra9 0   
accompani$ by ?und]1 lightn+1 & w9d1 !  
,indians believ$ t ! maid5's royal bro!r
 0 teas+ h]1 & try+ to wre/ ! pit*] f h]
 h&4 ,nu/a mu/ inde$ h be5 fe>fully     
teas$ t night1 = ! lightn+ ( h] eyes %ot
 a?w>t ! heav5s & ! sky 0 r5t 9 flame4  
,(t5 9 ^? latitudes no ra9 falls = long 
mon?s1 b :5 once ! cl\ds op5 ! e>? is   
delug$6 ,weeks pass1 & ! zephyr breezes 

sc>cely move ! leaves ( ! trees1 b 9 ^? 
days ( calm ! w9d /ores up 8 =ces = a   
mighty /orm4 ,on ?is d>k1 fe>ful night  
he blew 8 fi]ce/ bla/s4 ,! wild bea/ 0  
affright$ f 8 lair & ru%$ d[n ) a moan1 
or ! m\nta9 eagle scream$ out a wail1   
indi/9ctly he>d ?r\gh ! moan+ s\nds4    
,dur+ ! :ole night1 :i* 0 black z       
wick$ness1 ! w9d h[l$ 9 m\rnful cad5ce1 
or w5t sobb+ along ! s&4 ,z ! h\rs wore 
on we seem$ to he>1 9 e %riek ( ! bla/1 
! /range tongue ( "s long-dep>t$ ,indian
 brave1 wail+ = 8 happy hunt+-gr\nds1 n[
 invad$ by ! paleface4 ,coats & rugs1 t 
_h n = _m mon?s be5 unpack$1 7 br\ght   
out1 only 9 "s cases to be bl[n f u1 = !
 w9d seem$ to try 8 h>de/ to imp$e our  
dep>ture4 ,! ra9 soak$ u ?r\gh & ?r\gh4 
,mi/s rose f ! e>?1 & mi/s came d[n f   
above4 ,next morn+ ! :ole face ( nature 
0 *ang$4  ,aft] ! viol5ce ( ! tempe/    
abat$ we ca/ (f ! ropes & turn$ ! pr[ ( 
our little vessel civilizationw>d4 ,:5  
we ent]$ ! lake ! great gold5 sun gave u
 a w>m welcome1 n[1 at our f>ewell1 he  

refus$ to %9e4 ,! ra9y season _h        
comm5c$1 b1 =tunately = u1 aft] ! "w (  
exploration 0 done4 ,?is wea!r          
cont9u$--day aft] day cl\ds & ra94 ,d[n 
! rugg$1 "t-worn face ( ! m\nta9s foam+ 
/reams ru%$ & p\r$1 & ?is 0 our la/     
view--a good-bye ( copi\s te>s6 ,?us we 
saw ! lake 9 sun%9e & /orm1 9 light &   
d>kness4 ,x _h be5 our aim & ambition to
 rea* x1 & we rejoic$ 9 its discov]y4   
,rememb]+ t we 7 ! fir/ :o ev] bur/ into
 t sil5t sea1 we seem$ to =m "p ( x1 &  
its v>y+ moods only ende>$ x to u ! m4  
,9 m9+ p>lance1 we _h /ak$ out our      
claims !re1 =--    ,o'er no sweet] lake 
%all morn+ break1    ,or noon cl\d sail2
   ,no fair] face ?an ?is %all take     
,! sunset's gold5 veil4     ,,*apt]     
,,vii4  ,,pi$ra ,,blanca4   ,9 due "t we
 aga9 rea*$ ,pi$ra ,blanca1 &1 not)/&+  
our ragg$1 ?orn-torn g>m5ts1 felt we 7  
once m jo9$ on to ! _w4  ,! bubonic     
plague _h brok5 out f>!r d[n ! c\ntry1  
/eamboats 7 at a /&/ill1 s we _h to wait
 a passage d[n ! riv]4 ,pi$ra ,blanca is

 an int]e/+ little spot4 ,"o ev5+ a tir$
 mule br\ght 9 ! po/man f ! next t[n1   
,holy ,joseph4 ,he _h be5 eight days on 
! j\rney4 ,ano!r ev5+ a /r+ ( du/y mules
 arriv$1 br++ loads ( rubb] & cocoa4 ,!y
 _h be5 five mon?s on ! way4  ,:5 !     
,*iquitana wom5 g d[n to ! bay = wat]1 )
 _! pit*]s pois$ on _! heads1 ! sight is
 v picturesque4 ,sometimes a little boy 
w /ep into "o ( ! giant1 traylike leaves
 ( ! ,victoria ,regia1 :i*1 ?us trans=m$
 into a fairy boat1 he w paddle ab\t !  
quiet bay4  ,! village is built on !    
edge ( ! virg9 =e/1 :]e ! r$ man1 ) 8   
/one hat*et1 w&]s 9 wild fre$om4 ,x     
conta9s1 p]haps1 a hundr$ inhabitants1  
*iefly civiliz$ ,*iquitanos ,indians4   
,!re is "h a cu/oms h\se1 & a regul>    
trade 9 rubb]1 :i* is br\ght 9 f !      
int]ior on mule-back1 a j\rney :i* (t5  
takes f ?ree to f\r mon?s4  ,"o ev5+    
dur+ our /ay two m5 7 =cibly br\ght into
 ! village1 hav+ be5 caught 9 ! act (   
kill+ a c[ :i* !y _h /ol54 ,^! m5 7     
imm$iately ?r[n into ! prison1 a small1 

d>k1 palm-built hut4 ,next morn+1 ere ! 
sun arose1 _! feet 7 ?ru/ into ! /ocks1 
& a man arm$ ) a long hide :ip ?ra%$ !m 
until ! blood fl[$ 9 /reamlets d[n _!   
b>e backs6 ,:at /ruck u z be+ delicately
 ?\ghtful 0 t :ile ! :ipp+ proce$$ ano!r
 (ficial tri$ 8 be/ to dr[n _! pi]c+    
%rieks by bl[+ an old trumpet at its    
highe/ pit*6  ,! wom51 al?\gh boa/+ only
 "o loose :ite g>m5t1 walk ) ! air &    
grace ( que5s1 or z ?\gh pure ,inca     
blood ran 9 _! ve9s4 ,_! only adornm5t  
is a necklace ( r$ corals & a few in*es 
( r$ or blue ribbon entw9$ 9 _! long    
rav5-black hair1 :i* hangs d[n to ! wai/
 9 two plaits4 ,_! h\ses are palm-wall$1
 ) a ro( ( palm-leaves1 ?r\gh :i* ! ra9 
p\rs & ! sun %9es4 ,_! *airs are logs ( 
wood1 & _! b$s are /r+ hammocks4 ,_!    
wants are few1 z !re are no             
electric-light$ /ore w9d[s to tempt !m4 
,let u leave !m 9 _! primitive          
simplicity4 ,_! little1 delicately-%ap$ 
feet are pretti] )\t %oes & /ock+s1 & _!
 plait$ hair )\t ,p>isian hats &        

,european t9sel4 ,!y nei!r read nor     
write1 & !re=e _c discuss politics4     
,wom5's rights !y h nev] he>d (4 ,_!    
bright-ey$1 nak$ little *ildr5 play 9 ! 
mud or du/ r\nd ! h\se1 & ! sun turns _!
 already bronze-color$ bodies into a    
d>k] t9t2 b ! ,*iquitana woman has nev] 
se5 a :ite baby1 & kn[s no?+ ( its      
beauty1 s is m ?an satisfi$ ) h] own4 ,!
 ,indian *ild does n suff] f tee?+1 =   
all h a small wood5 image ti$ r\nd !    
neck1 & ! little "o1 because ( ?is1 is  
suppos$ to be sav$ f all baby ailm5ts6  
,_! husb&s & sons leave !m = mon?s :ile 
!y g into ! int]ior = rubb] or cocoa1 & 
:5 "o comes back1 rid+ on 8 bullock or  
mule1 he is affectionately b sil5tly    
receiv$4 ,! ,*iquitano seldom speaks1 & 
9 ?is respect he is utt]ly unlike !     
,brazilian4 ,! wom5 diff] f our mo!rs & 
si/]s & wives1 = !y 7! ,*iquitanas7 h   
no?+ to say4 ,aft] all1 ours are be/1 & 
a heada*e is (t5 pref]able to companion+
 ) ! dumb4 ,i unhesitat+ly say1 give me 
! music1 ev5 if ,i h to suff] !         

consequ5ces4  ,! wait+-"t 0 employ$ by  
our hunt] 9 8 favorite sport4 ,"o day he
 %ot a huge alligator :i* 0 disport+    
itself 9 ! wat] "s five hundr$ y>ds f ! 
%ore4 ,tak+ a /rong rope1 we w5t out 9  
an ,indian dug-out to t[ x to l&4 ,z my 
fri5d 0 ! m dext]\s 9 ! use ( ! paddle1 
he manag$ ! canoe1 & ,i1 ) mu*          
difficulty1 fix$ ! rope by a noose to ! 
mon/]'s tail4 ,:5 ! t[+1 h[ev]1 comm5c$1
 ! bea/ seem$ to rega9 8 life4 ,he div$ 
& /ruggl$ = fre$om until ! wat] 0 la%$  
into foam4 ,he ?ru/ 8 mighty head out ( 
! wat] & op5$ 8 jaws z ?\gh w>n+ u he   
c\ld cru% ! frail dug-out ) "o snap4    
,be+ anxi\s to obta9 8 hide1 & mom5t>ily
 expect+ 8 dea?1 = he 0 mortally w\nd$1 
,i held on to ! rope ) grim p]si/5cy4   
,he div$ "u ! boat & lift$ x high1 b z 8
 ugly nose came out on ! o!r side !     
canoe rega9$ its position 9 ! wat]4 ,he 
!n comm5c$ to t[ u1 b1 refus+ to obey ! 
helm1 took u to all po9ts ( ! compass4  
,aft] an excit+ cruise ! alligator gave 
a deep dive & ! rope broke1 giv+ him 8  

lib]ty aga94 ,on leav+ u he gave :at    
,wat]ton describes z a long-suppress$1  
%udd]+ sigh1 s l\d & s peculi> t x c be 
he>d a mile4 ,! bullet _h ent]$ !       
alligator's head1 b next morn+ we saw he
 0 /ill alive & able to paddle 8 own    
canoe4 ,! read] may be surpris$ to le>n 
t ^! repulsive reptiles lay an egg ) a  
pure :ite %ell1 fair to look ^u1 & t !  
egg is no l>g] ?an a h5's4  ,"o day ,i 0
 call$ to see a dead man = :om a k9d (  
wake 0 be+ held4 ,he 0 ly+ 9 /ate 9 a   
grass-built hovel1 & rais$ up f ! mud   
floor on two pack+-cases ( suspici\sly  
,briti% orig94 ,8 h>d ,indian face 0    
s(t5$ 9 dea?1 b ! obs]vant eye c\ld     
trace a /oical resignation 9 ! features4
 ,sev]al m5 & wom5 7 sitt+ ar\nd !      
corpse c\nt+ _! beads & dr9k+ native    
spirits1 ) a dim1 hazy belief t t 0 ! "r
 ?+ to d4 ,!y _h giv5 up _! own hea!n   
cu/oms1 &1 be+ civiliz$1 mu/1 ( c\rse1  
be ,roman ,ca?olics4 ,!y 7 r$uc$1 z     
,holy ,"m ,*ur* calls x1 long ago1 &1 ( 
c\rse1 believe t civilization & ,roman  

,ca?olicism are synonym\s t]ms4 ,poor   
s\ls6 ,h[ !y />$ & wond]$ :5 !y t morn+ 
he>d = ! fir/ "t ! /ory ( ,jesus1 :o    
ta/$ dea? = u t we might live4 ,to ^? 9 
! home l&s ?is is an old /ory1 b d !y :o
 prea* x or li/5 to x realize t to      
millions x is /ill ! newe/ ?+ "u ! sun8 
,next day ! man 0 quietly c>ri$ away to 
! little =e/ cle>+ res]v$ = ! dep>t$1   
:]e a few wood5 crosses lift _! heads   
among ! tangl$ gr[?4 ,"s ( ^! crosses h 
f\r rudely c>v$ lett]s on !m1 :i* y     
deciph] z ,i4 ,n4 ,r4 ,i4 ,! ,indian _c 
tell y _! mean+1 b he kn[s !y h some?+  
to d ) 8 new religion4  ,z f> z ,i c\ld 
asc]ta91 ! dep>t$ _h no relatives4 ,"o  
aft] ano!r _h be5 tak5 f him1 & n[ he _h
 gone1 = :5 he is =sak51 )]$ & %ak51 :at
 c an old man d b die8--x is ! end ( all
 fle%4 ,poor man6 ,_h he be5 able to    
reta9 ev5 a sp>k ( life until ,holy     
,week1 he might !n h be5 sav$ f         
purgatory4 ,rome tea*es t on two days 9 
! ye>--,holy ,?ursday & ,corpus         
,*ri/i--! gates ( heav5 are ungu>d$1    

because1 !y say1 ,god is dead4 ,all p :o
 die on ^? days g /raight to heav51     
h[ev] bad !y may h be56 ,at no o!r "t is
 t gate op51 & e s\l mu/ pass ?r\gh !   
torm5ts ( purgatory4  ,a mission>y 9    
,oruru wrote3 ,! ,?ursday & ,friday (   
s-call$ ,holy ,week1 :5 ,*ri/'s image   
lay 9 a c(f9 & 0 c>ri$ ?r\gh ! /reets1  
,god be+ dead1 0 ! "t = robb]ies1 & "s  
"o came to /eal f u1 b only got ab\t    
fifty doll>s' wor? ( build+ mat]ial4    
,holy ,week t]m9ates ) ! ',saturday (   
,glory1' :5 spirits are drunk till !re  
is n a dram left 9 ! dr9k-%ops1 :i*     
frequ5tly be> su* names z ',! ,savi\r ( 
! ,_w1' ',! ,grace ( ,god1' ',! ,f\nta9 
( ,our ,lady1' etc4 ,! poor delud$      
,romani/s h a holiday on t day ov] !    
tragic end ( ,judas4 ,a life-size       
repres5tation ( ! betray] is susp5d$    
high 9 ! air 9 front ( ! cafs4 ,at t5   
a4m4 ! *ur* bells beg9 to r+1 & ?is is !
 signal = light+ ! fuse4 ,!n1 ) a fla% &
 a bang1 e ve/ige ( ! effigy has        
disappe>$6 ,at night1 if ! t[n is l>ge  

en\gh to af=d a !atre1 ! cr[ds w5d _!   
way ?i!r4 ,?is place ( v que/ionable    
amusem5t w (t5 be> ! high-s\nd+ "n1     
,!atre ( ! ,holy ,gho/6  ,!re is no *ur*
 or prie/ 9 ! village ( ,pi$ra ,blanca4 
,d[n on ! bea* !re is a *ur* bell1 :i* !
 visitor concludes is a />t 9 t         
direction1 b he is told t x is de/9$ = !
 t[n ( ,santa ,cruz de la ,si]ra1 ?ree  
hundr$ miles inl&4 ,! bell 0 a pres5t to
 ! *ur* by "s pi\s devotee1 b ! money   
donat$ did n provide = its removal inl&4
 ,?is co/ ! prie/s refuse to pay1 & !   
,*iquitanos equally refuse to transport 
x free4 ,!re is no resid5t prie/ to make
 !m1 s !re x /ays4 ,9 ! meantime ! bell 
is slung up on ?ree poles4 ,x 0 solemnly
 beat5 ) a /ick on ,*ri/mas ,eve to     
commemorate ! "t :5 ! ,"m ( ,heav5 gave 
bir? to h] *ild ,jesus4 ,9 "o ( !       
pr9cipal h\ses ( ! village ! sc5e 0 mo/ 
vividly reproduc$4 ,a small arbor 0     
scre5$ (f by palm leaves1 9 :i* 7 hung  
little color$ c&les4 ,angels ( pap] 7   
susp5d$ f ! ro(1 t !y might appe> to be 

b5d+ ov] ! ,virg91 :i* 0 a highly-color$
 fa%ion-plate cut f a ,p>isian j\rnal t 
someh[ _h f\nd its way !re4 ,! *ild     
,jesus appe>$ to be a ,mell9's ,food-f$ 
infant4 ,r\nd ?is fairy sc5e ! y\? &    
beauty ( ! place danc$ & drank lib]al   
potations ( *i*a1 ! ,bolivian spirits1  
until f> on into morn+1 :5 all retir$ to
 _! hammocks to dream ( _! goddess & h] 
lovely babe4  ,aft] ?is pap] ,virg9 !   
next mo/ prom95t object ( wor%ip ,i saw 
9 ,pi$ra ,blanca 0 a sa9t ) a dress (   
vegetable fibre1 long hair t _h once    
adorn$ a horse's tail1 & eyes ( pieces (
 clam%ell4  ,poor1 d>k ,bolivia6 ,x w\ld
 be almo/ an impossible ?+ to exagg]ate 
! l[ /ate ( religion !re4 ,a            
communication f ,sucre reads3 ,! own]s (
 images ( ,jesus z a *ild h be5 gett+   
masses said = _! figures4 ,a b& ( music 
is employ$1 & f ! *ur* to ! h\se a      
procession is =m$4 ,a sc5e (            
intoxication foll[s1 :i* only ends :5 a 
good numb] lie drunk be=e ! image--!    
great] ! numb] ! great] ! honor to !    

image8 ,! p$dl] ( *i*a c>ries ar\nd a   
l>ge /one j>1 ab\t a y>d 9 dep?4 ,!     
paym5t = e dr9k sold is dropp$ into ! j>
 ( liquor1 s ! la/ cu/om]s get ! mo/    
ta/y decoction4  ,naturally ! masses l a
 religion ( lic5se1 & are z eag] z !    
prie/s to uphold x4 ,read a tale ( !    
p]secution ( a n9ete5? c5tury mission>y 
!re4 ,mr4 ,payne 9 graphic language     
tells ! /ory3  ,excommunication 0 issu$4
 ,to att5d a meet+ 0 special s91 & only 
p>don$ by go+ on ! knees to ! bi%op4    
,s]mons aga9/ u 7 prea*$ 9 all ! *ur*es4
 ,i 0 accus$ be=e ! ,crim9al ,c\rt4 ,x 0
 said ,i c>ri$ ) me ! 'special pres5ce' 
( ! devil1 & _h blasphem$ ! ,bless$     
,virg91 & ev]yone pass+ %\ld say3       
',m>ia1 ,joseph4' ,"o day a cr[d        
collect$1 & sacri/ans mix$ ) !          
multitude1 urg+ !m on to 'v5geance on ! 
,prote/ants4' ,ab\t two p4m4 we he>d !  
ro> ( furi\s ?\s&s1 & l a riv] let loose
 !y ru%$ d[n on our h\se4 ,pav+-/ones 7 
quickly torn up1 & be=e ! police arriv$ 
w9d[s & doors 7 sma%$1 & ab\t a ?\s&    

voices 7 cry+ = blood4 ,we cri$ to !    
,"l1 n expect+ to live mu* long]4 ,!    
,*ief ( ,police & 8 m5 7 swept away be=e
 ! mob1 & n[ ! door bur/ 9 be=e ! huge  
/ones & =ce us$4 ,!re 7 two p>ties1 "o =
 murd] & "o = robb]y4 ,i 0 beat5 &      
dragg$ ab\t1 :ile ! cry w5t up1 ',dea?  
to ! ,prote/ant6' ,! fire 0 blaz+       
outside1 z !y _h lots ( k]os5e1 & ) all 
! =ms1 *airs1 texts1 clo!s & books !    
/reet 0 a v]itable bonfire4 ,ev]y?+ !y  
c\ld lay h&s on 0 tak54 ,at ?is mom5t ! 
cry arose t ! soldi]s 7 com+1 & a       
cavalry regim5t *>g$ d[n ! /reet1 c>ry+ 
fe> into ! he>ts ( ! p4 ,a second *>ge  
cle>$ ! /reet1 & sev]al soldi]s rode    
into ! patio sla%+ ) _! swords4  ,9 ?is 
riot ! mission>y _h goods to ! value (  
"o ?\s& doll>s burnt1 & 0 himself haul$ 
be=e ! magi/rates &1 aft] a l5g?y trial1
 condemn$ to die = h]esy6  ,b>onius1 a  
,roman ,ca?olic writ]1 says3 ,! m9i/ry (
 ,pet] is tw(old--to fe$ & to kill2 = ! 
,"l said1 ',fe$ ,my %eep1' & he also    
he>d a voice f heav5 say+1 ',kill &     

eat4' ,bell>m9e argues = ! necessity (  
burn+ h]etics4 ,he says3 ,exp]i5ce      
tea*es t !re is no o!r rem$y1 = ! ,*ur* 
has proce$$ by sl[ /eps1 & tri$ all     
rem$ies4 ,fir/1 %e only excommunicat$4  
,!n %e add$ a f9e ( money1 & aft]w>ds   
exile4 ,la/ly %e 0 compell$ to come to !
 puni%m5t ( dea?4 ,if y ?reat5 a f9e (  
money1 !y nei!r fe> ,god nor reg>d m51  
kn[+ t fools w n be want+ to believe 9  
!m1 & by :om !y may be su/a9$4 ,if y %ut
 !m 9 prison1 or s5d !m into exile1 !y  
corrupt ^? ne> to !m ) _! words1 & ^? at
 a di/ance ) _! books4 ,!re=e1 ! only   
rem$y is to s5d !m betimes into _! own  
place4  ,z ?is m$iaeval s5t5ce aga9/    
,mr4 ,payne c\ld h>dly be c>ri$ out 9 ! 
n9ete5? c5tury1 he 0 lib]at$1 b _h to   
leave ! c\ntry4 ,he settl$ 9 ano!r "p ( 
! ,republic4 ,9 a lett] f him n[ be=e me
 z ,i write he says3 ,! prie/s are      
circulat+ all mann] ( lies1 tell+ ! p t 
we keep images ( ! ,virg9 9 ord] to     
sc\rge !m e night4 ,at ,colque*aca we 7 
?reat5$ ) burn+1 z x 0 rumor$ t our     

object 0 to d away ) ! ,roman ,ca?olic  
religion1 :i* w\ld mean a fall+ (f 9 !  
opportunities = drunk5ness4 ,s we see he
 is /ill p]secut$4  ,! ,rev4 ,a4 ,g4    
,bak]1 ( ! ,canadian ,bapti/ ,mission1  
wrote3 ,! ,bi%op ( ,la ,paz has s5t a   
lett] to ! ,m9i/] ( ,public ,wor%ip (   
:i* ! foll[+ is ! sub/ance3 ',x is      
necess>y = me to call att5tion to !     
,prote/ant meet+s be+ held 9 ?is city1  
:i* cause sc&al & al>m ?r\gh\t ! :ole   
di/rict1 & :i* are contr>y to ! law (   
,bolivia4 ,moreov]1 x is indisp5sable t 
we prev5t ! sad results :i* mu/ foll[   
su* tea*+s1 s contr>y to ! true         
religion4 ,on ! o!r h&1 if ?is is n     
/opp$1 we %all see a repetition ( !     
sc5es t rec5tly took place 9            
,co*abamba4' ,footnote3 ,ref]r+ to !    
sack+ & burn+ ( ,mr4 ,payne's           
possessions previ\sly ref]r$ to4        
,bolivia 0 "o ( ! la/ ( ! ,republics to 
hold out aga9/ lib]ty ( wor%ip1 b 9     
#aijg ?is 0 at la/ decl>$4 ,great ef=ts 
7 made t ?is law %\ld n be pass$4  ,9 my

 lectures on ?is cont95t ,i h inv>iably 
/at$ t 9 ,s\? ,am]ica ! prie/ is ! real 
rul] ( ! c\ntry4 ,i app5d a rec5t       
despat* f ,wa%+ton1 :i* is an acc\nt ( a
 massacre ( revolution>y soldi]s1 "u mo/
 revolt+ circum/ances1 committ$ at !    
in/igation ( ! ecclesia/ical au?orities3
 ,! ,dep>tm5t ( ,/ate has be5 in=m$ by !
 ,unit$ ,/ates ,m9i/] at ,la ,paz1      
,bolivia1 t ,col4 ,p&o s5t #abj m5 to   
,ayopaya4 ,on arriv+ at ! t[n ( ,mohoza1
 ! comm&] dem&$ a loan ( two hundr$     
doll>s f ! prie/ ( ! t[n1 & "o hundr$   
doll>s f ! mayor4 ,^! dem&s be+ refus$1 
! prie/ & ! mayor 7 imprison$4          
,mean:ile1 h[ev]1 ! prie/ _h despat*$   
c\ri]s to ! ,indian village1 ask+ t !   
natives attack ,p&o's m54 ,a l>ge cr[d (
 ,indians came1 &1 9 spite ( all        
measures tak5 to pacify !m1 ! arms ( !  
soldi]s 7 tak5 away1 ! m5 subject$ to   
revolt+ treatm5t1 & f9ally lock$ inside 
! *ur* = ! night4 ,9 ! morn+ ! prie/1   
aft] celebrat+ ! s-call$ 'mass ( agony1'
 all[$ ! ,indians to take out !         

un=tunate victims1 two by two1 & #ajc 7 
delib]ately murd]$1 ea* pair by diff]5t 
tortures4 ,sev5te5 escap$ dea? by hav+  
dep>t$ ! day previ\s on ano!r mission4  
,aft] ,g54 ,p&o 0 elect$ ,presid5t ( !  
,republic ( ,bolivia1 prie/ly rule      
rema9$ z /rong z ev]4 ,to ent] on &     
reta9 8 (fice he mu/ p]=ce submit to    
,*ur* au?ority4 ,:5 9 8 employ1 h[ev]1  
,i op5ly decl>$ myself a ,prote/ant     
mission>y2 &1 because ( exploration "w1 
0 made a ,bolivian citiz54  ,9 #ahig x 0
 my great joy to prea* ! gospel 9       
,ens5ada4 ,_m & att5tive 7 ! li/5]s z = 
! fir/ "t 9 _! lives !y 7 told ( ! ,man 
( ,calv>y :o di$ t !y might live4 ,)    
exclamations ( wond] !y sometimes said3 
,:at =tunate p we are to h he>d su*     
words6 ,f\r m5 & five wom5 7 born aga94 
,ens5ada1 built on a mal>ial swamp1 0   
reek+ ) miasma1 & ! h\ses 7 rais$ on    
po/s ab\t a y>d above ! slime4 ,i 0 9   
consequ5ce /rick5 ) mal>ial fev]4 ,"o   
day a man :o _h att5d$ ! meet+s came    
into my room1 &1 kneel+ d[n1 ask$ ! ,"l 

n to let me suff]1 b to take me quickly4
 ,aft] long weeks ( illness1 ,god1      
h[ev]1 rais$ me up aga91 & ! meet+s 7   
resum$1 :5 ! reason ( ! prie/'s         
non-int]f]5ce 0 made kn[n to me4 ,he _h 
be5 away on a long vacation1 &1 on 8    
return1 he>+ ( my s]vices1 he ord]$ !   
*ur* bells rung furi\sly4 ,on my mak+   
enquiries :y ! bells clang$ s1 ,i 0     
in=m$ t a special s]vice 0 call$ 9 !    
*ur*4 ,at t s]vice a special text 0     
c]ta9ly tak51 = ,i 0 ! text4 ,dur+ !    
c\rse ( ! s]mon1 ! prea*] 9 8 f]vid     
eloqu5ce ev5 =bade ! p to look at me4   
,aft] t my resid5ce 9 ! t[n 0 mo/       
difficult4 ,! b>b] w\ld n cut my hair1  
nor w\ld ! but*] sell me 8 meat1 & ,i h 
gone into /ores ) ! money o/5tati\sly   
%[+ 9 my h& only to he> ! ^w1 ,afu]a6   
7,get out67 ,:5 ,i appe>$ on ! /reet ,i 
0 pelt$ ) /ones by ! m51 :ile ! wom5 ran
 away f me ) cov]$ faces6 ,x 0 n[ a s9  
to look at me6  ,i reop5$ ! little hall1
 h[ev]1 = public s]vices4 ,x _h be5     
badly us$ & 0 spla%$ ) mud & fil?4 ,!   

fir/ night m5 came to ! meet+s 9 cr[ds j
 to di/urb1 & "o ( ^! %ot at me1 b !    
bullet only pi]c$ ! wall beh9d4 ,a      
policeman m>*$ 9 & bade me accompany him
 to ! police /ation1 & on ! way ?i!r ,i 
0 sev]ely hurt by missiles :i* 7 ?r[n at
 me4 ,an (ficial !re sev]ely reprim&$ me
 = ?us di/urb+ ! quiet t[n1 & ,i 0 u%]$ 
9 be=e ! judge4 ,t dignifi$ g5tleman    
que/ion$ me z to ! object ( my meet+s4  
,respectfully answ]+1 ,i said3 ,to tell 
! p h[ !y c be sav$ f s94 ,!n1 z briefly
 z possible1 ,i unfold$ my mission4 ,!  
man's c\nt5ance *ang$4 ,surely my words 
7 to him an idle tale--he knew !m n4    
,aft] caution+ me n to repeat ! (f5ce1  
he gave me my lib]ty1 b reque/$ me to   
leave ! t[n4 ,rev4 ,f4 ,p5zotti1 ( ! ,b4
  ,f4 ,b4 ,society1 0 imprison$ 9 a     
dungeon = eight long mon?s1 s ,i 0      
grateful = deliv]ance4  ,an acqua9tance 
:o 0 eye-witness to ! sc5e1 ?\gh himself
 n a ,*ri/ian1 tells ! foll[+ sad /ory3 
,away ne> ! foot ( ! great ,&es1 ne/l+  
quietly 9 a f]tile valley1 %ut away1 "o 

w\ld ?9k1 f all ! _w beyond1 lay !      
village ( ,e---4 ,! inhabitants 7 a     
quiet1 home-lov+ p1 :o took life z !y   
f\nd x1 & z long z !y _h food = _! m\?s 
& clo!s = _! backs1 c>$ little = any?+  
else4 ,"o matt]1 h[ev]1 _h = "s little  
"t be5 tr\bl+ !m1 viz41 ! confession (  
_! s9s to a prie/4 ,aft] due            
consid]ation1 x 0 decid$ to ask ,fa!r   
,a41 liv+ "s sev5te5 leagues di/ant1 to 
/ate ! l[e/ sum = :i* he w\ld come to   
receive _! confessions4 ',"o hundr$     
doll>s1' he repli$1 'is ! l[e/ ,i c     
accept1 & z soon z y s5d x ,i w come4'  
,aft] a great ef=t1 = !y 7 v poor1 =ty  
doll>s 0 rais$ among/ !m1 & ^w 0 s5t to 
,fa!r ,a4 t !y c\ld n possibly collect  
any m4 ,w\ld he take pity on !m & accept
 t sum8 ',:at6 only =ty doll>s 9 ! :ole 
( ,e---1' 0 8 reply1 '& y d>e to (f] me 
t6 ,no6 ,i w n come1 &1 fur!rmore1 f ?is
 day ,i pron\nce a curse on y\r village1
 & e liv+ p]son & ?+ !re4 ,y\r *ildr5 w 
all sick5 & die1 y\r cattle all become  
cov]$ ) disease1 & y w "k no com=t nor  

happ9ess h5ce=?4 ,i1 ,fa!r ,a41 h said  
x1 & x w come to pass4'  ,:]e 0 ! quiet1
 peaceful sc5e ( a few weeks be=e8      
,gone1 & 9 its place all t]ror &        
confusion4 ,^! ignorant p1 believ+ !    
words ( ! prie/1 ga!r$ toge!r _!        
belong+s & fl$4 ,z ,i saw ^? poor1      
simple p leav+ ! homes :i* _h %elt]$ !m 
= ye>s1 z well z _! ance/ors be=e !m1 & 
) fev]i% ha/e hurry+ d[n ! valley--e few
 m9utes look+ back1 ) int5se sorr[ &    
regret /amp$ on _! faces--,i ?\ght      
surely ^! p ne$ "s "o to tell !m (      
,jesus1 =1 little z ,i "k ab\t ,him1 ,i 
am conv9c$ t ,he does n wi% !m to be    
treat$ ?us4  ,! prie/ is satisfi$ ) no?+
 less ?an ! mo/ complete submission ( ! 
m9d & body ( 8 flock4 ,a woman mu/ (t5  
give h] la/ money = masses1 & a man toil
 = mon?s on ! well-/ock$ l& ( ! div9e   
fa!r to save 8 s\l4 ,if he fail to d    
?is1 or any o!r s5t5ce ! prie/ may      
impose1 he is condemn$ to et]nal        
p]dition4  ,mr4 ,patrick1 ( ! ,r4 ,b4   
,m4 ,u41 has describ$ to me h[1 soon    

aft] he l&$ 9 ,trujilla1 he att5d$      
s]vice at a ,jesuit *ur*4 ,he _h        
introduc$ "s gospels into ! city1 & a   
special s]mon 0 prea*$ aga9/ ! ,bible4  
,dur+ ! s]vice ! prie/ produc$ "o ( !   
gospels1 &1 hold+ x by ! cov]s1 solemnly
 put ! leaves into ! burn+ c&le by 8    
side1 & !n /amp$ on ! a%es on ! pulpit  
floor4 ,! same prie/1 h[ev]1 ,ric>do    
,gonzales by "n1 ?\ght x no wrong to h  
sev5te5 *ildr5 to v>i\s mo!rs1 & 8      
daught]s 7 lead]s 9 society4 ,m5 love   
d>kness r ?an light because _! de$s are 
evil4 ,9 ,trujilla1 "r opposite my      
fri5d's h\se1 !re liv$1 at ! same "t1 a 
highly respect$ prie/1 :o _h1 ) 8 own   
h&s1 lit ! fire t burnt alive a "y woman
 :o _h embrac$ ,*ri/ianity ?r\gh        
mission>y prea*+4 ,be> 9 m9d1 read]1 ,i 
am n writ+ ( ! d>k ages1 b ( :at occurr$
 j outside ,trujilla dur+ my resid5ce 9 
! c\ntry4 ,ev5 9 #aiaj1 ,mission>y      
,*apman writes ( a conv]t hav+ 8 feet   
put 9 ! /ocks = d>+ to di/ribute ,god's 
,^w4 ,footnote3 ,i nev] saw great]      

d>kness except+ 9 ,c5tral ,africa4 ,i   
visit$ #gj ( ! l>ge/ ca!drals1 &1 aft]  
dilig5t enquiry1 f\nd only "o ,bible1 & 
t a ,prote/ant ,bible ab\t to be        
burn$--,dr4 ,rob]t ,e4 ,spe]1 9         
,mission>y ,review ( ! ,_w1 ,augu/1     
#aiaa4  ,up to f\r ye>s ago1 ! /atute 0 
9 =ce t ,e "o :o directly or ?r\gh any  
act conspires to e/abli% 9 ,bolivia any 
o!r religion ?an t :i* ! republic       
pr(esses1 namely1 t ( ! ,roman ,ca?olic 
,apo/olic ,*ur*1 is a traitor1 & %all   
suff] ! p5alty ( dea?4  ,aft] a week's  
/ay 9 ,pi$ra ,blanca1 dur+ :i* ,i _h    
ample "t = su* comp>isons z ^! ,i h     
p5n$1 qu>ant9e lift$1 & ! exp$ition /aff
 sep>at$4 ,i dep>t$ on horseback to     
inspect a tract ( l& on ano!r fronti] ( 
,bolivia #a1cjj miles di/ant4     ,,"p  
,,iii4  ,,p>aguay  ,illu/ration3 ,,an   
,,indian ,,& ,,8 ,,god ,,n&ey>a     ,i  
ne$ n foll[ ! beat5 pa?2   ,i d n hunt =
 any pa?2   ,i w g :]e !re is no pa?1   
,& leave a trail4     ,,p>aguay         
,p>aguay1 ?\gh "o ( ! mo/ isolat$       

republics ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 is "o ( !     
olde/4 ,a hundr$ ye>s be=e ! ,mayfl[]   
sail$ f old ,plym\? !re 0 a p]man5t     
settlem5t ( ,spani>ds ne> ! pres5t      
capital4 ,! c\ntry has #ih1jjj squ>e    
miles ( t]ritory1 b a population ( only 
#hjj1jjj4 ,p>aguay may almo/ be call$ an
 ,indian republic1 = ! travell] he>s    
no?+ b ! s(t ,gu>ani language spok5 all 
ov] ! c\ntry4 ,x is 9 ?is republic t !  
y]ba mt gr[s4 ,t is ! *ief article (    
comm]ce1 = at lea/ fifte5 millions (    
,s\? ,am]icans dr9k ?is tea1 already    
frequ5tly ref]r$ to4 ,?\s&s ( tons ( !  
be/ oranges are gr[n1 & its orange      
groves are _w-fam$4  ,! old capital1    
f\nd$ 9 #aecg1 0 built )\t regul>ity (  
plan1 b ! pres5t city1 ow+ to ! despotic
 sway ( ,francia1 is mo/ symmetrical4 ,t
 ,s\? ,am]ican ,n]o issu$ ord]s = all   
h\ses t 7 out ( 8 l9es to be demoli%$ by
 _! own]s4 ,"o poor man appli$ to "k :at
 remun]ation he 0 to h1 & ! dictator's  
answ] 03 ',a lodgm5t gratis 9 ! public  
prison4' ,ano!r ask$ :]e he 0 to g1 & ! 

answ] 01 ',to a /ate dungeon4' ,bo?     
culprits 7 =?) lodg$ 9 _! respective new
 resid5ces1 & _! h\ses 7 levell$ to !   
gr\nd4  ,su* 0 ! t]ror inspir$ by ! man 
t ! news t he 0 out w\ld cle> ! /reets4 
,a :ite ,p>aguayan d>$ n utt] 8 "n4     
,dur+ 8 lifetime he 0 ',el ,supremo1' & 
aft] he 0 dead = g5]ations he 0 ref]r$  
to simply z ',el ,difunto4' ,footnote3  
,rob]tson's ,reign ( ,t]ror4  ,p>aguay1 
( all c\ntries1 has be5 mo/ "u ! tea*+ (
 ! ,jesuit prie/1 & ! p 9 consequ5ce are
 f\nd to be ! mo/ sup]/iti\s4 ,be+ an   
inl& republic1 its ne>e/ po9t a ?\s&    
miles f ! sea-coa/1 x has be5 held 9    
undisput$ possession4  ,"h 0 wag$ betwe5
 #ahfb & #ahgj :at hi/ory describes z ! 
mo/ annihilat+ w> s9ce ,c>?age fell4 ,! 
little republic1 /&+ out = five & a half
 ye>s aga9/ five o!r republics1 f\ght ) 
true ,indian brav]y & recklessness1     
until = e man 9 ! c\ntry !re c\ld be    
numb]$ n9e wom5 7"s au?orities say      
elev572 & ?is not)/&+ ! fact t ! wom5 9 
?\s&s c>ri$ arms & f\ght side by side ) 

! m54 ,! dictator ,lopez1 :o _h ) su*   
det]m9ation ( purpose held out s long1 0
 f9ally kill$1 & 8 la/ words1 ,mu]o con 
la patria 7,i die ) ! c\ntry7 7 truly   
prophetic1 = ! c\ntry has nev] ris5     
s9ce4  ,travell]s agree 9 affirm+ t (   
all ,s\? ,am]icans ! ,p>aguayans are !  
mo/ mild-mann]$ & le?>gic2 yet :5 ^! p  
are once ar\s$ !y fight ) tig]i%        
p]t9acity4 ,! pages ( hi/ory may be     
se>*$ 9 va9 = examples ( w>f>e wag$ at  
su* odds2 b ! result is inv>iably !     
same1 ! weak] nation1 :e!r "r or wrong1 
goes "u4 ,al?\gh ! national mottoes v>y 
) ! diff]5t flags1 yet ! ,*ilian is !   
mo/ univ]sally foll[$ 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 z 
else:]e3 ,por la razon  la fu]za 7,by "r
 or by might74 ,! ,p>aguayans cont5d$   
h]oically = :at !y consid]$ _! rights1 &
 su* bloody battles 7 f\ght t at        
,curupait alone #e1jjj dead & dy+ 7 left
 on ! field6 ,add$ to ! c>nage ( battle 
0 disease on e h&4 ,! wor/ epidemic (   
smallpox ev] kn[n 9 ! annals ( hi/ory 0 
:5 ! ,brazilians lo/ #dc1jjj m51 :ile   

?is w> 0 be+ wag$ aga9/ ,p>aguay4 ,"o   
hundr$ ?\s& bodies 7 left unburi$1 & on 
!m ! wild animals & vultures gorg$      
!mselves4 ,! say+ n[ is a h\sehold ^w1 t
 ! jagu> ( ^? l&s is ! mo/ to be dread$1
 ?r\gh hav+ ta/$ s mu* human blood4     
,lopez1 ! cause ( all ?is sacrifice &   
mis]y1 has gone to 8 f9al acc\nt1 8 s\l 
/a9$ ) ! blood ( sev5 hundr$ ?\s& ( 8 p1
 ! victims ( 8 ambition & cruelty4      
,t[ns :i* fl\ri%$ be=e ! outbreak (     
ho/ilities 7 sack$ by ! embold5$        
,indians f ! ,*aco & wip$ (f ! map1 ,san
 ,salvador 7,holy ,savi\r7 be+ a /rik+  
example4 ,i visit$ ! ru9s ( ?is t[n1 :]e
 =m]ly dwelt ab\t #h1jjj s\ls4 ,n[ !    
/reets are grass-gr[n1 & ! =e/ is creep+
 ar\nd *ur* & b>racks1 ?reat5+ to bury  
!m4 ,i rode my horse ?r\gh ! high portal
 ( ! cannon-batt]$ *ur*1 :ile ! /illness
 ( ! sc5e rem9d$ me ( a city ( ! dead4  
,city ( ! dead1 truly--m5 & wom5 &      
*ildr5 :o h pass$ on6 ,my horse nibbl$ !
 grass gr[+ among ! brok5 tiles ( !     
floor1 :ile ,i1 9 imag9ation1 li/5$ to !

 pass+ bell 9 ! t[] above me1 & "u ^:   
%ade ,i s\ght repose4 ,a travell]1      
describ+ ?is site1 says3 ,x is a place (
 :i* ! atmosph]e is "o great mass (     
mal>ia1 & ! heat suffocat+--:]e !       
surr\nd+ c\ntry is an un9t]rupt$        
m>%--:]e v5om\s insects & reptiles      
ab\nd4 ,san ,salvador z a busy m>t has  
ceas$ to exi/1 & ! ne>e/ approa* to !   
human =m div9e1 f\nd occasionally )9 its
 walls1 is ! h[l+ monkey4 ,su* are !    
consequ5ces ( w>6 ,dur+ ! la/ t5 ye>s   
,p>aguay has be5 sl[ly recov]+ f !      
t]rible effects ( ?is w>1 b a republic  
compos$ mo/ly ( wom5 is sev]ely         
h&icapp$4 ,footnote3 ,w\ld !            
suffragettes disagree ) ! writ] "h8     
,p>aguay is a poor l&2 ! value ( its    
pap] curr5cy1 l t ( mo/ ,s\? ,am]ican   
c\ntries1 fluctuates almo/ daily4 ,9    
#ahii ! doll> 0 wor? only twelve c5ts1 &
 = five gold doll>s ,i h receiv$ 9      
ex*ange z _m z =ty-six ( !irs4 ,yet !re 
is a great future = ,p>aguay4 ,x has be5
 call$ ! ,p>adise ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 &     

al?\gh ! writ] has visit$ sixte5 diff]5t
 c\ntries ( ! _w1 he ?9ks ( ,p>aguay )  
t5d] long+4 ,x is p]haps ! ri*e/ l& on  
e>? naturally1 & produces s mu* mte t "o
 ye>'s production w\ld make a cup ( tea 
= e man1 woman & *ild on ! globe4       
,oranges & bananas c be b\ght at six    
c5ts a hundr$1 two millions ( cattle    
fatt5 on its ri* pa/ure l&s2 b1 ( all ! 
c\ntries ! writ] has travell$ 91 ,mexico
 comes fir/ z a l& ( begg>s1 & poor     
,p>aguay comes second4     ,,*apt]      
,,viii4  ,,asuncion4   ,be+ 9 ,engl& 9  
#aijj = *ange & re/1 ,i 0 introduc$ to  
an ecc5tric old g5tleman ( mis]ly       
t5d5cies1 b possess$ ( #e1jjj1jjj4 ,he>+
 ( my w&]+s 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 he told me t
 he own$ a tract ( l& ?irte5 miles squ>e
 9 ,p>aguay1 & w\ld l to "k some?+ ( its
 value4 ,! outcome ( ?is visit 0 t ,i 0 
commission$ by him to g to t c\ntry &   
explore 8 possession1 s ,i proce$$ once 
m to my old field ( labor4 ,arriv+ at ! 
m\? ( ! ,riv] ,plate1 aft] five weeks ( 
sea-toss+1 ,i 01 ) ! re/1 look+ =w>d to 

our arrival 9 ,bu5os ,ayres1 :5 a /eam  
tug came puff+ alongside1 & we 7 in=m$ t
 z ! %ip _h t\*$ at ! infect$ port (    
,bahia1 all pass5g]s mu/ be fumigat$1 & 
t we mu/ submit to ?ree weeks' qu>ant9e 
on ,flores ,isl&4 ,! ,port doctor has   
s5t a :ole %ip-load to ! isl& = s trifl+
 a cause z t a sailor _h a brok5        
coll>-bone1 s we knew t = u !re 0 no?+ b
 submission4 ,disemb>k+ f ! ocean /eam] 
on to light]s1 we gave a la/ look at !  
covet$ l&1 s ne> & yet s f>1 & 7 t[$    
away to ?ree small isl&s 9 ! c5tre ( !  
riv]1 ab\t fifty miles di/ant4 ,"o isl& 
is set ap>t z a burial gr\nd1 "o is =   
infect$ pati5ts1 & ! o!r1 at :i* we 7   
l&$1 is = suspects4 ,on t des]t isl&1 ) 
no o!r l& 9 sight ?an ! si/] isles1 we 7
 giv5 "t to *ew ! cud ( bitt]           
reflection4 ,!y gave u little else to   
*ew6 ,! food s]v$ up to u consi/$ ( /r+s
 ( dri$ beef1 call$ *>qui1 :i* 0 br\ght 
f ! ma9l& 9 dirty canvas bags4 ,?is 0   
(t5 supplem5t$ by boil$ seawe$4 ,be+    
accu/om$ to self-pres]vation1 ,i 0 able 

to augm5t ?is diet ) fi% caught :ile    
sitt+ on ! b>r5 rocks ( our sea-girt    
prison4 ,prison x c]ta9ly 01 = s5tries1 
arm$ ) ,rem+tons1 h]d$ u l %eep4  ,!    
?ree weeks' det5tion came to an end1 z  
ev]y?+ e>?ly does1 & !n an op5 b>ge1 t[$
 by a /eam-laun*1 convey$ u to          
,montevideo4 ,q a fre% breeze 0 bl[+1 & 
dur+ our elev5 h\rs' j\rney we 7        
repeat$ly dr5*$ ) spray4 ,delicate      
ladies lay d[n 9 ! bottom ( ! boat 9 !  
?roes ( seasickness1 & 7 lit]ally wa%$  
to & fro1 & saturat$1 z !y said1 to !   
he>t4 ,we l&$1 h[ev]1 & ,i took passage 
up to ,asuncion 9 ! ,olympo4  ,! ,olympo
 is a palatial /eam]1 fitt$ up l ! be/  
,atlantic l9]s ) e luxury & conv5i5ce4  
,on ! %ip !re 7 p]haps "o hundr$ cab9   
pass5g]s1 & 9 ! /e]age 7 six hundr$     
,russian emigrants b\nd = ,corri5tes1   
?ree days' sail nor?4 ,two ( ^! wom5 7 v
 sick1 s ! *ief /ew>d1 to :om ,i 0 kn[n1
 hurri$ me to !m1 & ,i 0 ?ankful to be  
able to help ! poor females4  ,! maje/ic
 riv] is broad1 & 9 "s p>ts s ?ickly    

/udd$ ) isl&s t x appe>s m l a *a9 (    
lakes ?an a fl[+ /ream4 ,z we proce$$ up
 ! riv] ! wea!r grew w>m]1 & ! native   
clo?+ ( %eepsk9s ! ,russians _h us$ 0   
ca/ aside4 ,! m51 r\gh & be>d$1 soon _h 
only _! "u g>m5ts on1 & ! wom5 wore     
simply t ?ree-qu>t] l5g? loose g>m5t    
well kn[n to all females1 yet !y swelt]$
 9 ! unaccu/om$ heat4  ,at midnight ( ! 
?ird day we l&$ !m at ,corri5tes1 & !   
wom51 9 _! :ite 787 g>m5ts1 ) _! babies 
& ikons1 & bundles--& husb&s--trod on   
t]ra firma = ! fir/ "t 9 sev5 weeks4    
,aft] ab\t twelve days' sail we came to 
,bella ,vi/a1 at :i* po9t ! riv] is     
eighte5 miles wide4 ,sixte5 days aft]   
leav+ ! m\? ( ! riv]1 we sight$ !       
r$-til$ ro(s ( ! h\ses at ,asuncion1 !  
capital ( ,p>aguay1 built on ! bank ( ! 
riv]1 :i* is !re only a mile wide1 b    
?irty feet deep4 ,! riv] boats l& _!    
pass5g]s at a rickety wood5 :>f1 &      
,indians c>ry ! baggage on _! heads into
 ! d+y cu/oms h\se4 ,aft] ?is has be5   
inspect$ by ! cig>ette-smok+ (ficials1 !

 d>k-sk9n$ port]s are clamor\sly eag] to
 aga9 b5d !mselves "u ! burd5 & take y\r
 trunks to an hotel1 :]e y foll[1 walk+ 
ov] ! exce$+ly r\gh cobbl$ /reets4 ,!re 
is n a cab = hire 9 ! :ole city4 ,! two 
or ?ree hotels are fif?-rate1 b *>ge    
only ab\t ?irty c5ts a day4  ,asuncion  
is a city ( "s #cj1jjj inhabitants ,ow+ 
to its isolat$ position1 a ?\s& miles f 
! sea-coa/1 x is p]haps ! mo/ backw>d ( 
all ! ,s\? ,am]ican capitals4 ,al?\gh "u
 ,spani% rule = ?ree hundr$ ye>s1 !     
natives /ill reta9 ! old ,indian        
language & ! ,gu>ani idiom is spok5 by  
all4  ,! city is lit up at night ) small
 lamps burn+ oil1 & ^! lights %$ fitful 
gleams "h & !re4 ,! oil burn$ be>s !    
high-s\nd+ trade-m>k1 ,light ( ! ,_w1 & 
t is ! only light ( ! _w ! native kn[s  
(4 ,! lamps are ( s little use t females
 nev] dream ( go+ out at night )\t c>ry+
 ) !m a little t9 f>ol1 ) a tall[ dip   
burn+ inside4  ,i h said ! /reet lamps  
give little light4 ,i mu/ make exception
 ( "o week ( ! ye>1 :5 !re is great     

improvem5t4 ,t week !y are c>efully     
clean$ & trimm$1 = x is giv5 up z a fea/
 to ! ,virg91 & ! lights are to %$      
radiance on gaudy little images ( t     
augu/ lady :i* are inside ( ea* lamp4 ,!
 ,pal1 or fa!r prie/1 sees t ^! images  
are prop]ly honor$ by ! p4 ,he is "h z  
else:]e1 ! mov+ _s4  ,san ,bias is !    
patron sa9t ( ! c\ntry1 ,x is said he   
won = ! ,p>aguayans a great victory 9 an
 e>ly w>4 ,/4 ,cri/obel receives mu*    
homage also because he help$ ! ,virg9   
,m>y to c>ry ! infant ,jesus across a   
riv] on ! way to ,egypt4  ,asuncion 0 = 
_m ye>s ! recluse headqu>t]s ( !        
,jesuits1 s ( all enslav$               
,spani%-,am]icans probably ! ,gu>anis   
are ! wor/4 ,dur+ ,l5t !y w inflict     
/ripes on _! bodies1 or almo/ />ve      
!mselves to dea?2 & _! abject humility  
to ! ,pa is sad to witness4 ,on special 
*ur* celebrations l>ge processions w    
walk ! /reets1 head$ by ! prie/s1 *ant+ 
9 ,lat94 ,! p sometimes fall ov] "o     
ano!r 9 _! eag] endeavors to kiss !     

prie/'s g>m5ts1 ,!y pro/rate !mselves1  
c\nt _! beads1 confess _! s9s1 & seek ! 
covet$ bless+ ( ?is demi-god1 :o %uts ! 
k+dom ( heav51 & keeps ! key 9 8 own    
pocket4  ,a noticeable feature ( ! place
 is t all ! inhabitants g b>efoot$4     
,ladies 787 w pass y ) _! /iffly-/>*$   
:ite dresses1 & rav5-black hair neatly  
done up ) color$ ribbons1 b ) feet      
innoc5t ( %oes4 ,soldi]s & policem5     
tramp ! /reets1 b nei!r are provid$ )   
footwe>1 & _! clo!s are (t5 9 tatt]s4 ,!
 ,jesuits taught ! ,indians to make     
%oes1 b !y alone wore !m1 export+ !     
surplus4 ,%oes are n = common p1 & :5 "o
 ( !m d>es to cov] 8 feet he is consid]$
 presumptu\s4 ,hats !y nev] we>1 b !y h 
! beautiful cu/om ( weav+ fl[]s 9 _!    
hair4 ,:5 fl[]s are n worn ! head is    
cov]$ by a :ite %eet call$ ! tupo1 & 9  
"s cases ?is g>m5t is ri*ly embroid]$4  
,^! females are devot$ ,romani/s1 z w be
 se5 f ! foll[+ description ( a fea/    
held to ,/4 ,john3  ,da ,juana's fir/   
c>e 0 to decorate ) uncommon spl5dor a  

l>ge image ( ,/4 ,john1 :i*1 9 a co/ly  
cry/al box1 %e pres]v$ z ! *ief ornam5t 
( h] pr9cipal draw+-room4 ,he 0 pa9t$   
anew & re-gild$4 ,he _h a black velvet  
robe pur*as$ = him1 & trimm$ ) deep gold
 lace4 ,hov]+ ov] him 0 a *]ub4 ,e fri5d
 ( ,da ,juana _h l5t "s "p ( h] jewell]y
 = ! decoration ( ! holy man4 ,r+s      
sp>kl$ on 8 f+]s2 coll>s hung ar\nd 8   
neck2 a ti>a grac$ 8 v5]able br[4 ,!    
lac+s ( 8 s&als 7 /udd$ ) pe>ls2 a      
preci\s girdle b\nd 8 sl5d] wai/1 & six 
l>ge wax c&les 7 light$ up at ! %r9e4   
,!re1 embosom$ 9 fragrant ev]gre5s--!   
orange1 ! lime1 ! acacia--/ood !        
favorite sa9t1 de/9$ to receive ! fir/  
homage ( e gue/ t %\ld arrive4 ,^! all  
solemnly took (f _! hats to ! image4    
,su* religi\s mumm]y z ?is is pa9ful to 
witness1 & to see ! sa9t borne r\nd 9   
procession1 ) m5 c>ry+ c&les1 &         
:ite-clad girls ) l>ge birds' w+s fa/5$ 
to _! %\ld]s1 dispels ! idea ( its be+  
,*ri/ianity at all4  ,! p are g5tle &   
mild-spok54 ,:ite-rob$ wom5 lead /r+s ( 

donkeys along ! /reets1 be>+ huge       
panni]s full ( vegetables1 among :i*    
frequ5tly play ! wom5's babies4 ,!      
panni]s are ab\t a y>d deep1 & may (t5  
be se5 full to ! brim ) live f[ls p9ion$
 by ! legs4 ,o!r wom5 g ar\nd ) l>ge    
wick] trays on _! heads1 sell+ *ip1 !   
native bread1 made f ,indian corn1 or   
m&ioca root1 ! /aple food ( ! c\ntry4   
,:eat is n gr[n 9 ,p>aguay1 & any fl\r  
us$ is import$4 ,^! daught]s ( ,eve (t5 
we> no?+ m ?an a robe-de-*ambre1 &      
inv>iably smoke cig>s six or eight in*es
 long4 ,_! figure is erect & /ately1 & !
 laugh+ eyes full ( mis*ief & m]rim5t2 b
 !y fade into old age at =ty4 ,until !n 
!y seem pr\d z *ildr5 ( _! brass        
jewell]y & r$ coral beads4 ,!           
,p>aguayans are ! happie/ race ( p ,i h 
met2 c>e seems undream$ ( by !m4  ,9 !  
po/-(fice ( ! capital ,i h sometimes be5
 unable to procure /amps1 & ,dypore 7,we
 h none7 has be5 ! civil answ] ( ! cl]k4
 ,:5 !y _h /amps !y 7 n provid$ )       
mucilage1 b a bru% & pot ( pa/e 7 h&$ ! 

buy]4 ,if y ask = a "o c5t /amp ! cl]k w
 cut a two c5t /amp & give y a half4 ,!y
 h1 h[ev]1 /amps ! t5? "p ( a c5t 9     
value1 & a bank note 9 circulation ^:   
face value is less ?an a c5t4 ,!re are  
only f\r num]als 9 ! ,gu>ani language3  
#a1 petei2 #b1moncoi2 #c1;bohapy2       
#d1;irund4 ,x is n possible to express  
five or six4 ,no wond]1 !re=e1 t :5 ,i  
b\ght five #dj-;c5t /amps1 ,i f\nd !    
cl]k 0 unable to c\nt ! sum1 & ,i _h to 
come to ! rescue & tell him x 0 #b4jj4  
,at lea/ eighty p] c5t4 ( ! p are unable
 to read4 ,:5 !y d1 x is ( c\rse 9      
,spani%1 ,a "y man to :om ,i gave !     
,gospel ( ,john c>efully look$ at x1 &  
!n1 turn+ to me1 said3 ,is ?is a hi/ory 
( t wond]ful lawy] we h be5 he>+ ab\t8  
,to ^? int]e/$ 9 ! dissem9ation (       
,scriptures1 let me /ate t no s+le      
,gospel has z yet be5 translat$ into    
,gu>ani4  ,a t5tative edition ( ! ,s]mon
 on ! ,m\nt has rec5tly be5 issu$ by !  
,briti% & ,=eign ,bible ,society1 a copy
 ( :i* ,i _h ! honor to be ! fir/ to    

pres5t to ! head executive4  ,g5tle     
simplicity is ! *ief *>act]i/ic ( ! p4  
,if ! travell] relates ! mo/ ord9>y     
ev5ts t pass 9 ! outside _w1 !y w jo9 9 
! exclamation ( surprise-,b-eh-pic6     
,b-eh-pic6  ,in=mation t t5ds to _! l[]+
 is n always accept$ ?us1 h[ev]1 = a    
colonel 9 ! army1 :5 told t ,asuncion   
c\ld be put into a l>ge city gravey>d1  
ha/ily got up f ! d9n] table & w5t away 
9 w\nd$ pride & incr$ulity4 ,! "o :o is 
suppos$ to "k a little likes to keep 8  
position1 & ! ,spani% prov]b is         
exemplifi$3 ,en ti]ra de los ciegos1 el 
tu]to es rey 7,9 ! bl9d c\ntry ! "o-ey$ 
are k+s74 ,! native is mo/ guileless &  
ignorant1 z c well be und]/ood :5 8     
language is an unwritt5 "o4  ,p>aguay is
 ess5tially a l& ( fruit1 #bjj oranges  
may be b\ght = ! equival5t ( six c5ts4  
,small m\nta9s ( oranges may always be  
se5 pil$ up on ! banks ready to be %ipp$
 d[n ! riv]4 ,wom5 are employ$ to load !
 vessels ) ?is fruit1 :i* !y c>ry 9     
baskets on _! heads4 ,ev]y?+ is c>ri$ on

 _! heads1 ev5 to a glass bottle4 ,my   
laundress1 ,cuac>ai ,footnote3 ,!       
,gu>ani idiom c boa/ ( b few words1 &   
,mr41 ,mrs4 & ,miss are simply r5d]$    
c>ai 7man71 cuna-c>ai 7woman7 & cunatai 
7"y woman72 mita cuna is girl1 mita     
cuimbai is boy1 & mita mi%i--baby4      
,jesus1 al?\gh an old woman1 c\ld be>   
almo/ incr$ible weights on h] h>d skull4
  ,z ! climate is hot1 a favorite       
occupation = m5 & wom5 is to sit        
half-subm]g$ 9 ! riv]1 smok+ vigor\sly  
,! ,p>aguayans are an amphibi\s race1   
nei!r :olly seam5 nor :olly l&sm51 b    
p>tak+ ( bo?4 ,all sleep 9 cotton       
hammocks1--b$s are almo/ unkn[n4 ,!     
hammocks are slung on ! v]&ah ( ! h\se 9
 ! hott] season & all sleep outside1    
tak+ (f _! g>m5ts ) real sang froid4 ,9 
! cool] season ! visitor is invit$ to   
hang 8 hammock along ) ! re/ inside !   
h\se1 & 9 ! e>ly morn+ nak$ little      
*ildr5 br+ mt to ea* "o4 ,if ! family is
 weal?y ?is w be s]v$ 9 a heavy silv]   
cup & bombilla1 or suck+ tube1 ( ! same 

metal4 ,aft] ?is dr9k & a bite ( *ip1 a 
/rangely %ap$1 ?9-neck$ bottle1 made (  
sun-bak$ clay1 is br\ght1 & f x wat] is 
p\r$ on ! h&s4 ,! t[els are spotlessly  
:ite & ( ! f9e/ texture4 ,!y are        
h&-made1 & are s delicately wov5 &      
embroid]$ t ,i f\nd x difficult to      
accu/om myself to use !m4 ,! beautifully
 f9e lace call$ n&ut 7lit]ally spid]'s  
web7 is also "h made by ! ,indian wom51 
:o h long be5 civiliz$4 ,"s ( !         
h&k]*iefs !y make are wor? #ej ea* 9 !  
fa%ionable cities ( ,am]ica & ,europe4  
,a mon?'s "w may easily be exp5d$ on su*
 a da9ty fabric4  ,! wom5 seem          
exceptionally fond ( pets4 ,monkeys &   
birds are common 9 a h\se1 & ! h\sewife 
w %[ y h] p>rot & say1 ,9 ?is bird      
dwells ! _s ( my dep>t$ "m4 ,an enemy1  
someh[1 has always turn$ into an        
alligator--a reptile mu* loa!d by !m4   
,9 ev5 ! poore/ h\ses !re is a %r9e & a 
,sa9t4 ,^! deities c answ] all pray]s if
 !y *oose to4 ,sometimes1 h[ev]1 !y are 
n 9 ! humor1 & at "o h\se ! sa9t _h     

refus$1 s he 0 laid flat on ! floor1    
face d[nw>ds4 ,! woman swore t until he 
answ]$ h] petition %e w\ld n lift him up
 aga94 ,he laid ?us all night2 :e!r     
long] or n ,i d n "k4  ,hav+ he>d mu*   
conc]n+ ! moralit ( ! p1 ,i ask$ ! maid 
at a respectable private h\se :]e ,i 0  
/ay+3 ,h y a fa!r8 ,no1 sir1 %e answ]$1 
we ,p>aguayans are n accu/om$ to h a    
fa!r4 ,*ildr5 ( five or six1 :5 ask$    
ab\t t p>5t1 w (t5 answ]1 ,fa!r di$ 9 ! 
w>4 ,! w> end$ ?irty-n9e ye>s ago1 b !y 
h be5 taught to say ?is by ! "m4  ,z 9  
,arg5t9a ! fir/ ^w ! /rang] le>ns is    
maana 7to-morr[71 s "h ! fir/ is dy-qui 
7,i don't "k74 ,:atev] "q y ask !       
,gu>ani1 he w almo/ inv>iably answ]1    
,dy-qui4 ,ask him 8 age1 he answ]s      
,dy-qui ,to y\r "q3 ,are y tw5ty or "o  
hundr$ & tw5ty8 he w reply ,dy-qui4     
,?r\gh ! long rule ( ! ,jesuits !       
natives /opp$ ?9k+2 !y _h x all done =  
!m4 ,at ! same "t t !y enslav$ !m1 !y   
tortur$ !m into ! pr(ession ( ! religion
 !y _h import$2 & z !y _h se5 t 9 ! old 

l& ! love ( ?is _w & ! deceitfulness (  
ri*es 7 ev] 9 ! way ( conv]sion to !    
true fai?1 !y pi\sly reliev$ ! ,indians 
( ^! sn>es ( ! s\l1 ev5 go+ s f> 9 !    
dis*>ge ( ?is pa9ful duty z to relieve  
!m ( life at ! same "t1 if necess>y to  
get _! possessions into _! own h&s1     
,footnote3 ,rob]tson's ,lett]s on       
,p>aguay4  ,! /ories ( _! h>dness1 &    
p]fidy1 & immorality begg> description4 
,! *ildr5 ( ! prie/s h become s num]\s t
 ! %ame is no long] consid]$4 ,footnote3
 ,s]vice4  ,z ! ,mahometans h _! ,mecca1
 s ! ,p>aguayans h ,caacup2 & ! image ( 
! ,virg9 9 t village is ! great         
wond]-work]4 ,pray]s are direct$ to h] t
 %e w raise ! sick1 etc41 & promises are
 made h] if %e w d ?is4 ,"o morn+ ,i _h 
bus9ess ) a /orekeep]1 & w5t to 8 (fice4
 ,is ! c>a 98 ,i ask$4 ,no1 ,i 0 answ]$1
 he has gone to ,caacup to pay a        
promise4 ,t promise 0 to burn s _m c&les
 be=e ! ,virg91 & fur!r adorn h]        
bejewell$ robes4 ,%e _h1 z he believ$1  
heal$ him ( a sickness4  ,! village (   

,caacup is ab\t =ty miles f ,asuncion4  
,! ,bi%op ( ,p>aguay =mally inaugurat$ !
 wor%ip ( ! ,virg9 ( ,caacup1 s5d+ =? an
 episcopal lett] accr$it+ ! practice1 & 
promis+ indulg5ces to ! pilgrims :o %\ld
 visit ! %r9e4 ,?us ! wor%ip became     
legal & or?odox4 ,multitudes ( p visit  
h]1 c>ry+ (f]+s ( valuable jewels4 ,!re 
are sev]al well-au!nticat$ cases (      
p]sons1 ^: (f]+s 7 ( inf]ior quality1   
be+ ov]tak5 ) "s t]rible calamity4      
,footnote3 ,wa%burn's ,hi/ory (         
,p>aguay4  ,funds mu/ be secur$ someh[1 
= ! pres5t ,bi%op's sons1 to :om ,i 0   
introduc$ z among ! ari/ocrats ( !      
capital1 c]ta9ly ne$ a l>ge income f !  
lavi% mann] ,i notic$ !m treat all &    
sundry 9 ! hotel4 ,x is admitt$ by all1 
t 9 ,s\? ,am]ica ! *ur* is decad5t &    
corrupt4 ,! immorality ( ! prie/s is    
tak5 = grant$4 ,prie/s' sons & daught]s1
 ( c\rse n born 9 w$lock1 ab\nd ev]y:]e1
 & no /igma atta*es to !m or to _! fa!rs
 & mo!rs4 ,footnote3 ,! ,cont95t (      
,opportunity4 ,dr4 ,cl>k4 ,hon4 ,s4 ,h4 

,blake1 9 ! ,neglect$ ,cont95t1 writes3 
,i 0 especially /ruck by ! /atem5t ( a  
,roman ,ca?olic--a ,consul> ag5t ) a    
l>ge am\nt ( in=mation z to ! l& & its  
inhabitants4 ,he /opp$ me 9 speak+ ( !  
prie/s by say+1 ',i "k all t4 ,y _c     
exagg]ate _! immorality4 ,ev]ybody kn[s 
x--b ! ,lat9 race is a deg5]ate race4   
,no?+ c be done ) x4 ,! ,roman ,*ur* has
 _h f\r c5turies ( trial & has made a   
failure ( x4'  ,:5 a p]son is dy+1 ! ,pa
 is hurri$ly s5t =4 ,to ?is call he w   
readily respond4 ,a procession w be =m$1
 &1 prec$$ by a boy r++ a bell1 ! ,ho/1 
or1 to use an ev]yday expression1 ,god1 
w be c>ri$ f ! *ur* d[n ! /reet to !    
sick "o4 ,all pass]s-by mu/ kneel z ?is 
goes along1 & ! police w arre/ y if y d 
n at lea/ take (f y\r hat4 ,lib]ty (    
consci5ce is a mo/ diabolical ?+1 to be 
/amp$ out at any co/1 is ! maxim (      
,rome1 & ! ,gu>ani has le>n$ 8 lesson   
well4 ,9 ,inquisition ,squ>e m5 7 burn$ 
= d>+ to ?9k1 !re=e m5 /opp$ ?9k+ :5    
dea? 0 ! p5alty4  ,wakes = ! dead are   

always held1 & 9 ! case ( a *ild !      
little "o lies 9 /ate adorn$ ) gild$ w+s
 & t9sell$ f9]y4 ,all 9 ! neighborhood  
are invit$ to ! dance :i* takes place t 
ev5+ ar\nd ! corpse4 ,at a fun]al ! ,pa 
walks fir/1 foll[$ by a cr[d ( m51 wom5 
& *ildr5 be>+ c&les1 "s ( :i* are f\r & 
five feet long4 ,! dead are c>ri$ ?r\gh 
! /reets 9 a v %all[ c(f91 & ! head is  
mu* elevat$4 ,an old woman g5]ally walks
 by ! side1 be>+ ! c(f9 lid on h] head4 
,! dead are always buri$ respectfully1 =
 an old law reads3 ,no p]son %all ride 9
 ! dead c>t except ! corpse t is c>ri$1 
&1 !re=e1 nobody %all get up & ride     
beh9d4 ,x is aga9/ ,*ri/ian piety to    
bury p ) irrev]5t actions1 or drag !m 9 
hides1 or ?r[ !m into ! grave )\t       
consid]ation1 or 9 a position contr>y to
 ! practice ( ! ,*ur*4  ,all ,sa9ts ,day
 is a special "t = releas+ dep>t$ ones  
out ( purgatory4 ,hundr$s ( p visit !   
cemet]ies !n1 & pay ! wait+ prie/s s mu*
 a pray]1 ,if t lib]ator ( s\ls s+s !   
pray] ! price is d\bl$1 b x is consid]$ 

d\bly efficaci\s4  ,a good feature (    
,romanism 9 ,p>aguay is t ! p h be5     
taught some?+ ( ,*ri/1 b !re seems to be
 an utt] want ( rev]5ce t[>d ,8 p]son1 =
 "o may see a r$ flag on ! public /reets
 ann\nc+ t !re are ! ,auction ,rooms ( !
 *ild ,god4 ,9 8 ,lett]s on ,p>aguay1   
,rob]tson relates ! foll[+ graphic      
acc\nt ( ! celebration ( ,8 dea?3 ,i    
f\nd great prep>ations mak+ at ! ca!dral
 = ! s]mon ( '! agony on ! cross4' ,a   
wood5 figure ( our ,savi\r crucifi$ 0   
affix$ aga9/ ! wall1 opposite ! pulpit2 
a l>ge bi] 0 plac$ 9 ! c5tre ( !        
ca!dral1 & ! great alt> at ! ea/]n      
extremity 0 hung ) black2 :ile ar\nd 7  
dispos$ light$ c&les & o!r insignia ( a 
great fun]al4 ,:5 ! s]mon comm5c$1 !    
ca!dral 0 cr[d$ to suffocation1 a great 
proportion ( ! audi5ce be+ females4 ,!  
disc\rse 0 int]rupt$ alt]nately by ! l[ 
moans & sobb+s ( ! congregation4 ,^!    
became m audible z ! prea*] w>m$ ) 8    
disc\rse1 :i* 0 p>tly address$ to 8     
auditory & p>tly to ! figure be=e him2 &

 :5 at l5g? he exclaim$1 ',behold6      
,behold6 ,he gives up ! gho/6' ! head ( 
! figure 0 sl[ly depress$ by a spr+     
t[>ds ! brea/1 & "o simultane\s         
%riek--l\d1 pi]c+1 almo/ appall+--0     
utt]$ by ! :ole congregation4 ,! wom5 n[
 all /ruggl$ = a sup]iority 9 giv+      
unb\nd$ v5t to app>5tly ! mo/ di/ract+  
grief4 ,"s rav$ l maniacs1 o!rs beat _! 
brea/s & tore _! hair4 ,exclamations1   
cries1 sobs & %rieks m+l$1 & unit$ 9 =m+
 "o mighty tide ( clamor1 upro>1 noise &
 confusion4 ,9 ! mid/ ( ! rag+ tempe/   
c\ld be he>d1 ev] & anon1 ! /5torian    
voice ( ! prea*]1 reproa*+ 9 t]ms (     
indignation & wra? ! apa?y ( 8 he>]s6   
',c y1 oh1 ins5sate cr[d6' he w\ld cry1 
',c y sit 9 sil5ce8'--b "h 8 voice 0    
dr[n$ 9 an ov]:elm+ cry ( l\de/ woe1 f e
 "p ( ! *ur*2 & = five m9utes all fur!r 
ef=t to make himself he>d 0 unavail+4   
,?is s+ul> sc5e cont9u$ = ne>ly half an 
h\r2 !n1 by degrees1 ! vehem5t grief ( !
 congregation abat$1 & :5 ,i left !     
ca!dral x _h subsid$ once m into l[ sobs

 & sil5t te>s4  ,i n[ took my way1 ) _m 
o!rs1 to ! ,*ur* ( ,san ,francisco1 :]e1
 9 an op5 space 9 front ( ! *ur*1 ,i    
f\nd t ! duty ( ! day _h advanc$ to !   
fun]al s]vice1 :i* 0 ab\t be+ celebrat$4
 ,!re a scaffold+ 0 erect$1 & !         
crucifixion exactly repres5t$ by wood5  
figures1 n only ( our ,"l1 b ( ! two    
?ieves4 ,a pulpit 0 erect$ 9 front ( !  
scaffold2 & ! :ole squ>e 0 cov]$ by !   
dev\t inhabitants ( ! city4 ,! same k9d 
( sc5e 0 be+ enact$ "h z at ! ca!dral1 )
 ! diff]5ce1 h[ev]1 ( ! circum/antial   
fun]al 9 place ( ! dea?4 ,! orator's    
disc\rse :5 ,i arriv$ 0 only "h & !re   
int]rupt$ by a suppress$ moan1 or a     
/ruggl+ sigh1 to be he>d 9 ! cr[d4 ,b :5
 he comm5c$ giv+ directions = ! tak+ d[n
 ( ! body f ! cross1 ! impati5ce ( grief
 began to manife/ itself on all sides1  
',m\nt up1' he cri$1 'ye holy m9i/]s1   
m\nt up1 & prep>e = ! sad duty :i* ye h 
to p]=m6' ,"h six or eight p]sons1 cov]$
 f head to foot ) ample black cloaks1   
asc5d$ ! scaffold4 ,n[ ! groans ( ! p   

became m audible2 & :5 at l5g?          
directions 7 giv5 to /rike out ! fir/   
nail1 ! ca!dral sc5e ( confusion1 :i* ,i
 h j describ$1 began1 & all ! re/ ( !   
prea*]'s oratory 0 dumb %[4 ,! body 0 at
 l5g? deposit$ 9 ! c(f91 & ! groan+ &   
%riek+ ( ! assembl$ multitude ceas$4 ,a 
solemn fun]al c]emony took place3 e     
respectable p]son receiv$ a great wax   
tap] to c>ry 9 ! procession3 ! c(f9 aft]
 be+ c>ri$ all r\nd 0 deposit$ 9 ! *ur*3
 ! p disp]s$2 & ! great day ( ,passion  
,week 0 br\ght to a close4     ,,*apt]  
,,ix4  ,,exp$ition ,,to ,,!             
,,sun-,,wor%ipp]s4 ,footnote3 ,an acc\nt
 ( ?is exp$ition 0 reque/$ by & s5t to !
 ,royal ,geographical ,society (        
,london1 ,eng4   ,i took passage on !   
,urano1 a /eam] ( #a1ejj tons1 =        
,concepcion1 #bjj miles nor? (          
,asuncion4  ,on ! second day ( our      
j\rney ! p on bo>d celebrat$ a *ur*     
fea/1 & ! pilot1 9 8 anxiety to d x     
well1 got helplessly drunk4 ,! result 0 
t dur+ t night ,i 0 ?r[n out ( ! top b]?

 ,i occupi$ by a t]rific ?ud4 ,! /eam]  
_h run on ! s&bank ( an un9habit$ isl&1 
& !re %e /uck fa/--immovable4 ,we 7 l&$ 
on ! %ore1 & !re _h fur!r "t =          
reflection on ! mutability ( ?+s4 ,9 !  
:ite s& !re 7 di/9ct footpr9ts ( a l>ge 
jagu> & cub1 probably come to prey on ! 
lazy alligators t 7 ly+ on ! bea*2 & ,i 
caught sight ( a l>ge spott$ s]p5t1 :i* 
glid$ into ! l[ jungle :]e ! tig] also  
d\btless 0 9 hid+4  ,aft] ?ree days'    
det5tion "h1 a ,brazilian packet took u 
(f4 ,on /epp+ abo>d1 ,i saw :at ,i ?\ght
 to be two black pigs ly+ on ! deck4 ,i 
assure ! read] t x 0 "s seconds be=e ,i 
discov]$ t "o 0 n a pig1 b a man6  ,at  
sunset x is ! cu/om on ^! riv] boats =  
all to h a ba?4 ,! females g to "o side 
( ! %ip1 & ! males to ! o!r2 buckets are
 l[]$1 & 9 turn !y ?r[ wat] ov] ea* o!r4
 ,aft] supp]1 9 ! /illness ( ! ev5+1    
danc+ is ! ord]1 & b>e feet keep "t to !
 twang ( ! guit>4  ,we occasionally     
caught sight ( savages on ! we/ bank ( !
 riv]1 & ! capta9 in=m$ me t he _h once 

br\ght up a bag ( beans to give !m4 ,!  
beans _h be5 poison$1 9 ord] t !        
mis]able creatures might be swept (f !  
e>?6  ,we l&$ at ,concepcion1 & ,i walk$
 a%ore4 ,i f\nd ! only ,briti% subject  
liv+ !re 0 a univ]sity graduate1 b--a   
prodigal son ,ow+ to 8 habit ( con/ant  
dr9k+1 ! au?orities ( ! t[n compell$ him
 to "w4 ,z ,i pass$ up ! /reet ,i saw   
him m5d+ a road ( ! f> c\ntry ,!re ,i   
procur$ five horses1 a /ock ( beads1    
knives1 etc1 = b>t]1 & made ready = my  
l& j\rney into ! f> int]ior4 ,!         
/orekeep]1 he>+ ( my plans1 /rongly urg$
 me n to attempt ! j\rney1 & soon all ! 
village talk$4 ,vague rumors ( ! unkn[n 
savages ( ! int]ior _h be5 he>d1 & x 0  
said ! exp$ition c\ld only end 9 disa/]1
 especially z ,i 0 n ev5 go+ to get !   
bless+ ( ! ,pa be=e />t+4 ,i 0 =tunate1 
h[ev]1 9 secur+ ! companion%ip ( an     
excell5t man :o bore ! sugge/ive "n (   
,old ,/abb$ ,arm2 & ,da ,dolores 7,mrs4 
,sorr[s71 true to h] "n1 :om ,i engag$  
to make me ab\t tw5ty p\nds ( *ip1 said 

%e w\ld int]c$e ) h] sa9t = me4 ,load+ !
 pack-horse ) *ip1 beads1 look+-glasses1
 knives1 etc41 ,old ,/abb$ ,arm & ,i    
m\nt$ our horses1 &1 ea* tak+ a sp>e "o 
by ! halt]1 drove ! pack-saddle m>e 9   
front1 leav+ ! t5d]he>t$ ,mrs4 ,sorr[s  
weep+ beh9d4 ,! roads are simply pa?s   
?r\gh deep r$ s&1 into :i* ! horses sank
 up to _! knees2 & !y are s unev5 t "o  
side is frequ5tly two feet high] ?an !  
o!r1 s we c\ld travel only v sl[ly4 ,f  
"t to "t we _h to pu% our way into !    
d5se =e/ on ei!r side1 9 ord] to give   
space = a /r+ ( bullock c>ts to g pa/4  
,^! vehicles are eighte5 or tw5ty feet  
long1 b h only two :eels4 ,!y are drawn 
by t5 or twelve ox51 :i* are urg$ on by 
goads fa/5$ to a bamboo1 tw5ty feet     
long1 susp5d$ f ! ro( ( ! c>t1 :i* is   
?at*$ ) re$s4 ,! goads are arti/ically  
trimm$ ) fea!rs ( p>rots & macaws1 or ) 
bright ribbons4 ,^! are ( all colors1 b 
^? ar\nd ! %>p nail at ! end are fur!r  
pa9t$ ) r$ blood e "t ! goad is us$4  ,!
 c>ts1 roll+ & /ra9+ l %ips 9 f\l wea!r1

 c be he>d a mile (f1 ow+ to ! humm+    
scree* ( ! :eels1 :i* are nev] greas$1 b
 on ! contr>y h p[d]$ *>coal put 9 !m to
 increase ! noise4 ,)\t ?is music 787 ! 
bullocks d n "w s well4 ,h[ ! poor      
animals c\ld manage to draw ! load 0 (t5
 a my/]y to me1 ,sections ( ! road 7    
p>tly de/roy$ by l&slides & heavy ra9s1 
b d[n ! slipp]y banks ( riv]s1 ?r\gh !  
b$s ( torr5ts or up ! /eep incl9es !y   
someh[ manag$ to haul ! unwieldy        
vehicle4 ,/r+s ( load$ donkeys or mules1
 ) j+l+ bells1 also crawl$ pa/1 & ,i    
notic$ ) a smile t ev5 ! animals 9 ?is  
idolatr\s l& _c get on )\t ! ,virg91 =  
!y h t9y /atuettes ( h] /&+ betwe5 _!   
e>s to keep !m f dang]4 ,ne> ! t[n !    
riv]s & /reams are bridg$ ov] ) tree    
trunks plac$ longitud9ally1 & ! crevices
 are fill$ 9 ) b\ghs & sods4 ,"s ( !m   
are s unsafe & h su* gap+ holes t ,i    
frequ5tly dism\nt$ & l$ my horse ov]4   
,! tropical sc5]y 0 sup]b4 ,?\s&s (     
orange trees gr[+ by ! roadside1 fill$ )
 lusci\s fruit on ! l[] bran*es1 & on ! 

top ) ! incomp>able orange blossoms1    
af=d$ delight to ! eye1 & not)/&+ !     
heat1 kept u cool1 = z we rode we c\ld  
pluck & eat4 ,tree f]ns tw5ty & ?irty   
feet high wav$ _! fea!ry fronds 9 !     
g5tle breeze1 & wild p9eapples gr[+ at  
our feet load$ ! air ) fragrance4  ,!re 
0 ! graceful pepp] tree1 luxuriant hang+
 li*5s1 or bamboos =ty feet high1 :i*   
rivet$ ! att5tion & made "o ?9k :at a   
beautiful _w ,god has made4 ,_m ( !     
%rubs & plants af=d dyes ( ! ri*e/ hues1
 ,az>a f\nd f\r hundr$ new species ( !  
fea!r$ tribe 9 ! gorge\s woods &        
coppices ( ,p>aguay1 & all1 ) !         
melan*oly caw1 caw ( ! t\cans ov]head1  
spoke ( a tropical l&4 ,p>rots *att]$ 9 
! trees1 & sometimes a s]p5t glid$      
across ! r$ s& road4 ,un=tunately1 flies
 7 s num]\s & s torm5t+ t1 ev5 ) ! help 
( a gre5 bran*1 we c\ld n keep (f !     
sw>ms1 & ar\nd ! horses' eyes 7 doz5s ( 
!m4 ,sev]al m5ac+ hornets also tr\bl$ u4
 ,!y are !re s fi]ce t !y c easily /+ a 
man or a horse to dea?6  ,z night fell  

we came to an op5 glade1 & !re beside a 
cle>1 gurgl+ brook /ak$ out our horses &
 camp$ = ! night4 ,build+ a l>ge fire ( 
bru%wood1 we ate our supp]1 & !n lay d[n
 on our saddleclo?s1 ! firmam5t ( ,god )
 its galaxy ( />s z our cov]+ ov]head4  
,by next ev5+ we rea*$ ! village (      
,pegwaomi4 ,on ! way we _h pass$ a h\se 
"h & !re1 & _h se5 *ildr5 t5 or twelve  
ye>s ( age suck+ /icks ( sug>-cane1 b   
cont5t ) no o!r clo?+ ?an _! ros>y1 or  
an image ( ! ,virg9 r\nd _! necks1 l ^? 
! mules we>4 ,pegwaomi1 ,i saw1 0 q a   
village1 its pretty h\ses ne/l+ among   
orange & lime trees1 ) lusci\s bananas 9
 ! backgr\nd4 ,!re 0 no ,pa 9 ,pegwaomi1
 s ,i 0 able to hold a s]vice 9 an op5  
%$1 ) a ro( b no walls4 ,! *ief man ( ! 
village gave me p]mission to use ?is    
novel build+1 & tw5ty-?ree p came to he>
 ! /rang] speak4 ,aft] ! s]vice a poor  
woman 0 v desir\s ( confess+ h] s9s to  
me1 & %e ?\ght ,i 0 a /range prea*] :5  
,i told h] ( ,"o 9 heav5 to :om %e %\ld 
confess4  ,p>aguay1 f its fir/          

settlem5t1 nev] dep>t$ f '! age ( fai?' 
,nei!r d\bt nor free-?9k+ 9 reg>d to    
spiritual affairs ev] p]plex$ ! p1 b 9  
all religi\s matt]s !y accept$ ! words (
 ! fa!rs z ! unque/ionable tru?4        
,un=tunately1 ! prie/s 71 ) sc>cely an  
exception1 lazy & pr(ligate2 yet ! p 7 s
 sup]/iti\s & cr$ul\s t !y fe>$ to      
disobey !m1 or res]ve any?+ :i* !y might
 be requir$ to confess4 ,footnote3      
,wa%burn's ,hi/ory ( ,p>aguay4  ,9 !    
front g>d5s ( _m ( ! ru/ic h\ses ,i     
notic$ a wood5 cross drap$ ) broad :ite 
lace4 ,! dead are always int]r$ 9 !     
family g>d51 & ^! m>k$ ! site ( !       
graves4 ,:5 ! p c af=d x1 a prie/ is    
br\ght to p]=m ! sad rite ( burial1 b ! 
,p>aguayan ,pa is prov]bially drunk5 &  
lazy4 ,once aft] a *ur* fea/1 :i* 0     
l>gely giv5 up to dr9k+1 ! prie/ fell   
ov] on ! floor 9 a /ate ( intoxication4 
,:ile he ?us lay drunk1 a boy crawl$    
?r\gh ! door to ask 8 bless+1 :]eupon ! 
prie/ swore horribly & wav$ him (f1 ',n 
to-day1 n to-day ^? f>ces6 ,i am drunk1 

v drunk6' ,su* an "o has be5 describ$ by
 ,pollock3 ,he 0 a man :o /ole ! liv]y (
 ! c\rt ( heav5 to s]ve ! devil 92 9    
holy guise transact$ villa9ies t ord9>y 
mortals dur/ n m$dle )4  ,le/ x might be
 ?\ght t ,i am /rongly prejudic$1 ,i    
give ?is extract f a responsible        
hi/orian ( t unhappy l&3 ,! simple-m9d$ 
& sup]/iti\s ,p>aguayans rev]5c$ a ,pa1 
or fa!r1 z ! imm$iate repres5tative (   
,god4 ,!y bl9dly & implicitly foll[$ !  
in/ructions giv5 to !m1 & did :atev] 0  
requir$ at 8 h&s4 ,_m ( ! lic5ti\s      
bro!rhood took advantage ( ?is          
sup]/iti\s confid5ce plac$ 9 !m by ! p  
to an ext5t :i*1 9 a moral c\ntry1 w\ld 
n only %ock e feel+ ( our nature to     
relate1 b w\ld1 9 ! individual in/ances1
 appe> to be incr$ible1 &1 9 !          
aggregate1 be c\nt$ z sl&]\s on         
humanity4  ,dur+ my /ay 9 ,pagwaomi1 a  
dance 0 held on ! sw>d outside "o ( !   
h\ses1 & ! national :irl1 ! s>&iy1 gave 
pleasure to all4 ,! females wove fl[]s 9
 _! hair1 & made g>l&s ( !m to adorn _! 

wai/s4 ,o!rs _h caught fire-flies1 :i*  
ne/l$ 9 ! wavy tresses & lit up !       
semi-d>kness ) a s(t light1 l s _m gre5 
/>s4 ,love :isp]+s1 9 ! musical ,gu>ani1
 7 he>d by will+ e>s1 & eyelight 0 ?us  
add$ to />light4 ,z ! danc]s flitt$ "h &
 !re 9 _! :ite g>m5ts1 or came out f !  
%ade ( ! orange trees1 !y look$ e!real1 
l ! inhabitants ( ano!r _w "o sees at   
times 9 romantic dreams1 = ?is village  
is surely a hundr$ ye>s beh9d ! moon4   
,f ?is sc5e ( innoc5t happ9ess ,i 0 tak5
 to m ?an "o sick-b$1 = x soon became   
kn[n t ,i c>ri$ m$ic9es4  ,w ! read]    
accompany me8 ,ent] !n--a w9d[less mud  
hut ,see1 ly+ on %eepsk9s & burn+ )     
fev]1 a "y woman-almo/ a girl-wail+ ,*  
raciy6 7,i am sick67 ,notice ! int5se   
eag]ness ( h] eyes z %e gazes into m9e  
:5 ,i comm5ce to m9i/] to h]4 ,wat* h]  
submit to my necess>ily pa9ful treatm5t 
) *ild-l fai?4 ,!n1 be=e we quietly /eal
 out aga91 li/5 to h] l[-brea!d ,acu]ame
 7,already ,i feel bett]74  ,9 a l>g]   
h\se1 a hundr$ y>ds away1 an e>!nw>e    

lamp1 ) cotton wick dipp+ 9 raw ca/or   
oil1 %$s fitful gleams on a dy+ woman4  
,! trail ( s9 is only too evid5t1 ev5 9 
?\ghtless ,pegwaomi4 ,! t9sell$ sa9ts   
are on ! alt> at ! foot ( ! b$1 & on !  
woman's brea/1 tightly clut*$1 is a     
crucifix1 b ,mrs4 ,enc>nacion has nev]  
he>d ( ! ,inc>nate ,"o :om %e is soon to
 meet4 ,p]haps1 if ,*ri/ians are awake  
by t "t1 h] gr&*ildr5 may he> ! /ory4   
,9 t ru/ic cottage1 half cov]$ ) jasm9e1
 & %ad$ by a royal palm1 a *ild lies v  
sick4 ,li/5 to its l[1 weak moan+ z we  
cross ! ?re%old4 ,! "m has procur$ a    
piece ( tape1 ! l5g? ( :i*1 %e says1 is 
! exact measure ( ! head ( ,sa9t ,blas4 
,?is %e has repeat$ly put ar\nd h]      
babe's head z an unfail+ cure4 ,someh[ !
 *>m does n "w & ! woman is sorely      
p]plex$4 ,:ile we helplessly look on !  
infant dies6 ,outside1 ! moon so>$ high1
 ?r[+ a silv] veil ov] ! grim pa?os ( x 
all2 b 9 ! brea/ ( ! writ] 0 a surg+    
dissatisfaction &--ang]1 at 8           
fell[--,*ri/ians 9 ! homel&1 :o 9 _!    

?\ghtless selfi%ness w n rea* out a     
help+ h& to ! p]i%+ ( o!r l&s4  ,w\ld ! 
ev]-pres5t ,_s1 :o wrote ,be ye angry n 
und]/&8 ,w\ld ! ,ma/] ( pati5ce &       
=be>ance1 :o ,himself %[$ righte\s ang]1
 ent] into x8 ,is ! ,great ,god1 :o sees
 ^! %eep left )\t a %eph]d1 ,himself    
angry8 ,surely x is well to ask8  ,oh1  
heavy lies ! weight ( ill on _m he>ts1  
,& com=t]s are ne$$ sore ( ,*ri/like    
t\*4  ,9 ?is village ,i made inquiries =
 ano!r s]vant & guide1 & 0 direct$ to   
,timoteo1 ! v man4 ,lik+ 8 looks1 & be+ 
able to come to satisfactory t]ms1 ,i   
engag$ him z my second help]4 ,timoteo  
_h a si/] call$ ,salvadora 7,savi\r74   
,%e p\nd$ corn 9 a mort> ) a h>dwood    
pe/le1 & made me ano!r bak+ ( *ip1 ) :i*
 we fur!r burd5$ ! pack-horse1 & away we
 />t$ aga91 ) affectionate f>ewells &   
te>s1 t[>ds ! unkn[n4  ,next day we 7   
jo9$ by a travell] :o 0 escap+ to !     
int]ior4 ,he pla9ly decl>$ himself z a  
murd]]1 & told u he _h %ot "o ( !       
doctors 9 ,asuncion4 ,?r\gh be+ well    

connect$1 he _h1 aft] ?ree weeks'       
det5tion 9 prison1 be5 lib]at$1 z he    
boa/$ to u1 con todo bu5 nombre y fama  
7) good "n & report74 ,! relatives ( !  
murd]$ man1 h[ev]1 did n agree ) ?is    
v]dict1 & s\ght 8 life4 ,dur+ ! day we  
%ot an iguana1 & aft] a meal f its fat  
tail our new acqua9tance1 f9d+ ! pace   
too sl[ = 8 ha/y flight1 left u1 & ,i 0 
n sorry4 ,we met a /r+ ( bullock c>ts1  
ea* drawn by six animals & hav+ a sp>e  
"o beh9d4 ,! lumb]+ wagons 7 on _! way f
 ! ,p>aguayan mt fields1 & _h a load (  
ov] two ?\s& p\nds ea*4 ,jolt+ ov] huge 
tree-trunks1 or anon s9k+ 9 a swamp1    
foll[$ by sw>ms ( gad-flies1 ! pati5t   
animals w5d$ _! way4  ,"h & !re "o may  
see by ! roadside a l>ge wood5 cross1 ) 
a rudely c>v$ wood5 roo/] on ! top1 :ile
 bel[ x are ! nails1 sc\rge1 hamm]1     
p9c]s & spe> ( gruesome crucifixion     
memory4 ,at o!r places !re are small]   
%r9es ) a /atuette ( ! ,virg9 inside1 & 
c&les inv>iably burn+1 provid$ by !     
g5]\s wayf>]s4 ,x is int]e/+ to note t !

 old ,indians _h1 at ! adv5t ( !        
,spani>ds1 cairns ( /ones along _! pa?s1
 & ! pi\s ,indian w\ld contribute a /one
 :5 he pass$ z an (f]+ to ,pa*acamac1 :o
 w\ld keep away ! evil spirits4 ,t cu/om
 is /ill kept up by ! ,*ri/ian 787      
,p>aguayan1 ) ! diff]5ce t n[ x is giv5 
to ! ,virg94 ,my guide w\ld get d[n f 8 
horse :5 we arriv$ at ^! alt>s1 &       
contribute a /one to ! ev]-gr[+ heap4   
,if a specially bright "o is (f]$1 he   
told me x 0 m gratify+ to ! goddess4    
,feel+ t we 7 v likely to meet ) _m evil
 spirits1 ,timoteo c>efully s\ght =     
bright /ones4 ,! p are v religi\s1 yet )
 x all are t]ribly deprav$6 ,! tru? is  
seldom spok51 & my guide 01 un=tunately1
 no exception to ! rule4 ,z we left !   
haunts ( m51 & difficulties ?ick5$1 he  
w\ld (t5 entreat ! help ( ,holy ,m>y1 b 
9 ! same brea? w\ld lie & curse6        
,sight+ a mis]able hut1 we call$ to     
inquire = meat4 ,! ma/] ( ! h\se1 ,i    
discov]$1 0 a lep]1 & ,i fur!r le>n$1 on
 ask+ if ,i might wat] my horses1 t !   

ne>e/ wat] 0 ?ree miles away4 ,! man &  
wife & _! l>ge family c]ta9ly look$ z   
?\gh wat] 0 a luxury too co/ly to use on
 ! sk94 ,! lep] 0 mo/ hospitable1 h[ev]2
 he kill$ a %eep = u1 & we sat d[n to a 
fea/ ( mutton4 ,aft] ?is we pu%$ on to  
wat] ! horses4 ,by sunset we arriv$ at a
 cattle ran* ne> ! riv] ,ipan1 & !re we 
/ay$ = ! night4 ,at supp] all dipp$ 9 ! 
same /ew-pan1 & aft]w>ds r9s$ out ! m\? 
) l>ge draughts ( wat]1 :i* !y squirt$  
back on ! brick floor ( ! d9+-room4 ,!  
m5 !n smok$ cig>ettes ( tobacco roll$ 9 
corn leaves1 & ! wom5 smok$ _!          
six-in*-long cig>s4 ,f9d+ t two ( ! m5  
und]/ood ,spani%1 ,i read "s simple p>ts
 ( scripture to !m by ! light ( a dripp+
 grease lamp4 ,!y li/5$ 9 sil5ce1 &     
wond]$ at ! /range new /ory4 ,!         
mosquitoes 7 s tr\blesome t a l>ge      
plat=m1 tw5ty feet high1 _h be5 erect$1 
& aft] read+ all ! inmates ( ! h\se1 )  
u1 asc5d$ ! ladd] lead+ to ! top4 ,!re !
 mosquitoes did n di/urb u1 s we slept  
peacefully on our a]ial roo/ betwe5 !   

fire-flies ( ! e>? & ! />s ( heav54     
,next day we came to a solit>y h\se1 :]e
 ,i notic$ /r+s ( meat hung 9 ! sun to  
dry4 ,?is is left1 l s _m /ock+s &      
h&k]*iefs1 hang+ !re until x is h>d z   
wood2 x w !n keep = an indef9ite "t4    
,!re we got a good d9n] ( fre% beef1 &  
ab\t t5 p\nds ( ! dri$ meat 7*>qui7 to  
take away ) u4 ,at ?is place ,i b\ght   
two m horses1 & we ea* got a l>ge       
bullock's horn 9 :i* to c>ry wat]1 sw++ 
f ! saddle-tree4 ,i 0 n sorry to leave  
?is h\se1 =1 te>+ up ! (fal ar\nd !     
build+1 ,i c\nt$ z _m z sixty black     
vultures4 ,_! k+1 a dirty :ite bird )   
crimson neck cov]$ ) gore & fil?1 _h    
already gorg$ himself ) all ! blood he  
c\ld get4 ,all 8 sooty subjects /& ap>t 
at a respectful di/ance1 :ett+ _!       
appetites & regal+ _! no/rils1 b nev]   
dream+ ( an approa* to ! c>cass till _! 
ma/] has sunk into a /ate ( repletion4  
,:5 ! k+ly bird1 by fall+ on 8 side1    
clos+ 8 eyes1 & /ret*+ on ! gr\nd 8     
uncl5*$ talons1 gives notice to 8       

surr\nd+ & expectant subjects t _! "l & 
ma/] has gone to re/1 up !y hop to !    
c>cass1 :i* 9 a few m9utes is /ripp$ (  
ev]y?+ eatable4 ,"h we left ! high-road1
 :i* is cut ?r\gh to ,punta ,pona on !  
,brazilian fronti]1 & /ruck (f to ! we/4
 ,ov] ! grassy pla9s we made good       
progress1 & by ev5+ 7 ?irty miles f>!r  
on our j\rney4 ,b :5 we _h to cut ! pa? 
be=e u ?r\gh ! =e/1 t5 or twelve miles 0
 a good day's "w4 ,:5 ! gr[? 0 v d5se1 !
 morn+ & ev5+ camps 7 p]haps only       
sep>at$ by a league4 ,anon we /ruggl$   
?r\gh a swamp1 or ! horses /uck fa/ 9 a 
bog1 & ! c>apatas fea/$ on our blood4   
,:at are c>apatas8 y ask4 ,!y are       
lee*es1 bugs1 mosquitos1 gad-flies1     
etc41 all comp\nd$ into "o v5om\s       
insect6 ,^! voraci\s gre5 ticks1 ! size 
( a bug1 are inde$ a t]rible sc\rge4 ,!y
 fa/5 on ! body 9 scores1 & :5 pull$    
away1 ei!r ! piece ( fle% comes ) !m or 
! head ( ! c>apata is torn (f4 ,x 0 easy
 to pick a hundr$ ( ^! bugs (f ! body at
 night1 b x 0 n easy to sleep aft] !    

ordeal6 ,! poor horses1 bru%+ ?r\gh !   
bran*es on :i* ! ticks wait = _! prey1 7
 sometimes half cov]$ ) !m6  ,z we      
cont9u$ our j\rney1 a h\se 0 a r>e      
sight1 & soon we came to ! end (        
,*ri/ianity1 z ,timoteo said1 & all     
civilization 0 left beh9d4 ,! s&y road  
became a track1 & !n we c\ld no long]   
foll[ ! pa?1 = !re 0 none to foll[4     
,timoteo _h trav]s$ ^? regions be=e 9   
se>* ( ! mate plant1 h[ev]1 & ) my      
compass ,i kept ! g5]al direction4      
,aft] ab\t t5 days' travel1 dur+ :i* "t 
we _h _m rem9d]s t ! fle%-pots _h be5   
left beh9d1 ,*e cane o 7,i am tir$7 0   
frequ5tly he>d4 ,game 0 exce$+ly sc>ce1 
& x 0 possible to travel = days )\t     
sight+ any animal or o/ri*4 ,we pass$ no
 h\ses1 & saw no human be+s4 ,= two days
 we subsi/$ on h>d ,indian corn4 ,wat] 0
 sc>ce1 & = a week we 7 unable to wa%4  
,jigg]s got into our feet :5 sleep+ on !
 gr\nd1 & ^! caus$ great pa9 &          
annoyance4 ,someone has describ$ a jigg]
 z a cross betwe5 ,satan & a woodtick4  

,! little insects lay _! eggs betwe5 !  
sk9 & fle%4 ,:5 ! "y hat* out1 !y beg9  
fe$+ on ! blood1 & quickly gr[ half an  
in* long & cause an int5se it*+4 ,my    
feet 7 swoll5 s mu* t ,i c\ld n get on  
my rid+-boots1 &1 consequ5tly1 my l[]   
limbs 7 m expos$ ?an ev]4 ,if n soon cut
 out1 ! fle% ar\nd !m beg9s to rot1 &   
mortification sometimes ensues4  ,on "s 
( ! savannas we 7 able to kill de] &    
o/ri*1 b !y g5]ally 7 v sc>ce4 ,our f>e 
0 v>i$2 sometimes we feai/$ on p>rot pie
 or vultures eggs2 aga9 we lay d[n on ! 
h>d1 /ony gr\nd supp]less4 ,at su* times
 ,i w\ld be compell$ to rise f "t to "t 
& tight5 up my belt1 until ,i mu/ h     
resembl$ "o ( ! ladies ( fa%ion1 s f> z 
! wai/ 0 conc]n$4 ,aga9 we came to m>%y 
gr\nd1 fill$ ) royal duck1 teal1        
wat]-h5s1 snipe1 etc1 & =got ! pangs (  
pa/ hung]4 ,at su* places we w\ld fill  
our horns & dr9k ! putrid wat]1 or take 
(f our %irts & wa% !m & our bodies4 ,mud
 _h to s]ve = soap4 ,our wa%+1 spread   
out on ! re$s1 w\ld soon dry1 & (f we   

w\ld />t = ano!r /age4  ,! unpeopl$ /ate
 ( ! c\ntry 0 a con/ant wond] to me2    
g5]ations h disappe>$ )\t leav+ a trace 
( _! exi/5ce4 ,sometimes ,i /opp$ to    
admire ! pure :ite wat]-lilies gr[+ on  
/agnant black wat]1 or ! lovely         
,victoria ,regia1 ! leaf ( :i* is at    
times s l>ge z to weigh t5 p\nds4 ,!    
fl[]s h :ite petals1 t9t$ ) rose1 & !   
c5tre is a deep violet4 ,_! weight is   
betwe5 two & ?ree p\nds4  ,:]ev] we     
camp$ we lit imm5se fires ( bru%wood1 & 
g5]ally slept peacefully1 b ) load$     
rifle at arm's l5g?4  ,a portion ( l&   
:i* ,i rode ov] :ile 9 t di/rict mu/ h  
be5 j a ?9 cru/ cov]+ a mighty cave4 ,! 
horses' footfalls made holl[ s\nds1 & :5
 ! ?9 ro( %ook ,i half expect$ to be    
precipitat$ into unkn[n dep?s4  ,aft] _m
 weeks ( v>i$ exp]i5ces we arriv$ at or 
ne> ! l& ,i 0 seek+4 ,!re1 on ! banks ( 
a riv]1 we /ruck camp1 & f !re ,i made  
%ort excursions 9 all directions 9 ord] 
to asc]ta9 ! approximate value ( ! old  
g5tleman's e/ate4 ,on ! l& we came ^u an

 encampm5t ( poor1 half or :olly nak$   
,ca+wa ,indians4 ,by !m we 7 k9dly      
receiv$1 & f\nd t1 not)/&+ _! extremely 
sunk5 condition & abject pov]ty1 !y     
seem$ to h m&ioca & bananas 9 abundance4
 ,9 return = a few knives & beads1 ,i 0 
able to pur*ase q a /ock4 ,see+ t all ! 
di%es1 plates1 & bottles !y h gr[ 9 ! =m
 ( g\rds1 !y imag9e all su* ?+s we use  
also gr[4 ,x 0 amus+ to he> !m ask =    
se$s ( ! glass m$ic9e bottles ,i c>ri$ )
 me4  ,a drum1 +5i\sly made by /ret*+ a 
s]p5t's sk9 ov] a l>ge calaba%1 0       
monoton\sly beat5 z our good-night      
lullaby :5 we /ret*$ ourselves out on ! 
grass4  ,! ,ca+wa m5 all _h _! l[] lip  
pi]c$1 & hang+ d[n ov] ! brea/ 0 a ?9   
/ick ab\t t5 in*es long4 ,_! faces 7    
also pa9t$ 9 /range patt]ns4  ,le>n+ f  
_! *ief t ! royal tribe to :i* !y       
orig9ally belong$ liv$ away 9 ! dep?s ( 
! =e/ to ! ea/1 "s moons di/ant1 ,i     
became curi\s4 ,aft] repeat$ enquiries  
,i 0 told t a k+ rul$ ! p !re1 & t !y   
daily wor%ipp$ ! sun4 ,he>+ ( ^!        

sun-wor%ipp]s1 ,i det]m9$1 if possible1 
to pu% on ?i!r4 ,! old *ief himself (f]$
 to direct u if1 9 return1 ,i w\ld give 
him a %irt1 a knife1 & a numb] ( :ite   
beads4 ,! b>ga9 0 /ruck1 & arrangem5ts 7
 made to />t (f at sunrise next day1 ,my
 commission 0 n only to see ! old       
g5tleman's l&1 b to visit ! surr\nd+    
,indians1 ) a view to mission>y "w be+  
comm5c$ among !m4  ,! morn+ dawn$ cle> &
 propiti\s1 b ! *ief _h decid$ n to g4  
,on enquir+ ! reason = ! *ange ( m9d1 ,i
 discov]$ t 8 p _h be5 tell+ him t ,i   
only want$ to get him into ! =e/ 9 ord] 
to kill him1 & t ,i w\ld n give him !   
promis$ %irt & beads4 ,i ?\ght t x 0 mu*
 m likely = him to kill me ?an ,i him1 &
 ,i set 8 m9d at re/ ab\t ! rew>d1 = on 
! spot ,i gave him ! covet$ articles4   
,on receipt ( ^? luxuries 8 d\bts ( me  
fl$1 & ,i soon assur$ him t ,i _h no    
int5tion :atev] ( tak+ 8 life4 ,t[>ds   
noon we />t$ (f1 &1 w9d+ our way ?r\gh !
 ,indian pa?s 9 s+le file1 we aga9 soon 
left beh9d u all signs ( man1 & saw no?+

 to m>k t any _h pass$ t way be=e4  ,t  
night1 z we sat "u a l>ge silk-cotton   
tree sil5tly eat+ supp] (f plates ( palm
 leaves1 ! old *ief sudd5ly ?rew d[n 8  
meat1 &1 ) a />tl$ expression1 said1 ,i 
he> spirits6 ,nev] hav+ he>d su* e!real 
visitors myself1 ,i smil$ incr$ul\sly1  
:]eupon ! old savage gl>$ at me1 &1     
leav+ 8 food ^u ! gr\nd w5t away out ( !
 firelight into ! d>kness4 ,afraid t he 
might take "o ( ! horses & return to 8  
p1 ,i foll[$ to soo! him1 b 8 (f5d$ mood
 did n pass until1 z he said1 ! spirits 
_h gone4  ,on ! ?ird day sc>city ( wat] 
began to be felt4 ,we _h be5 sl[ly      
asc5d+ ! rugg$ /eeps ( a m\nta91 & z !  
day wore on ! ?ir/ grew pa9ful4 ,t night
 bo? we & ! horses _h to be cont5t ) !  
dew-drops we suck$ f ! grass1 & our dumb
 companions %[$ signs ( great exhau/ion4
 ,! ,indian assur$ me t if we c\ld pu%  
on we w\ld1 by next ev5+1 come to a     
beautiful lake 9 ! m\nta9s3 s1 ere ! sun
 rose next morn+1 we 7 9 ! saddle on our
 j\rney to ! covet$ wat]4  ,all t day we

 plodd$ along pa9fully1 sil5tly4 ,our   
lips 7 dri$ toge!r1 & our tongues       
swoll54 ,?ir/ hurts6 ,! horses hung _!  
heads & e>s1 & we 7 compell$ to dism\nt 
& g afoot4 ,! poor creatures 7 gett+ s  
?9 t our weight seem$ to cru% !m to !   
e>?4 ,! sun aga9 set1 d>kness fell1 & ! 
lake 01 = all ,i c\ld see1 a dream ( !  
*ief1 our guide4 ,at night1 aft] repeat+
 ! suck+ ( ! dew1 we ate a little1 drank
 ! blood ( an animal1 & tri$ to sleep4  
,! pati5t horses /ood beside u ) clos$  
eyes & b[$ heads1 until ! sight 0 m ?an 
,i c\ld be>4 ,=tunately1 a v heavy dew  
fell1 :i* greatly help$ u1 & two h\rs   
be=e sunrise next morn+ ! loads 7       
equally di/ribut$ on ! backs ( ! sev5   
horses & we />t$ (f once aga9 ?r\gh !   
mi/ = wat]6 wat]6 ,:5 ! sun illum9at$ ! 
heav5s & lit up ! rugg$ peaks ( !       
/rangely %ap$ m\nta9s ahead ( u1 hope 0 
reviv$4 ,we suck$ ! fruit ( ! date palm1
 & 9 imag9ation ba!d & wall[$ 9 !       
wat]--beautiful wat]--we s soon expect$ 
to behold4 ,! poor horses1 h[ev]1 n     

buoy$ up ) sweet hopes z we 71 gave out1
 "o aft] ! o!r1 & we 7 compell$ to      
cruelly urge !m on up ! /eep4 ,) x all1 
,i _h to leave two ( ! weak] ones beh9d1
 purpos+1 if ,god %\ld 9 k9dness p]mit u
 to rea* wat]1 to return & save !m4  ,t 
aft]noon ! ,indian *ief1 :o1 ?\gh an old
 man1 _h %[n wond]ful =titude &         
endurance1 & /ill l$ ! way1 %\t$3       
,eyoape6 ,eyoape6 7,come6 ,come67 ,we 7 
ne> ! lake4 ,) new-born /r5g? ,i left   
all & ran1 broke ?r\gh ! bru%wood ( !   
%ore1 jump$ into ! lake1 & f\nd--no?+ b 
h>d e>?6 ,! lake 0 dri$ up6 ,i dug my   
heel into ! gr\nd to see if bel[ !      
surface !re might be s(t mud1 b fail+ to
 f9d ev5 t1 ,i dropp$ ov] ) ! _w danc+ 9
 di/ort$ visions be=e my eyes4 ,m ,i _c 
relate4  ,h[ long ,i lay !re ,i nev]    
knew4 ,! ,indian1 ,i le>n$ lat]1 explor+
 a deep gully at ! o!r side1 f\nd a     
putrid pool ( slime1 full ( poison\s    
frogs & alive ) insects4 ,"s ( ?is      
liquid he br\ght to me 9 8 h&s1 &1 aft] 
putt+ x 9 my m\?1 _h ! satisfaction (   

see+ me revive4 ,i dimly rememb] t my   
next act 0 to crawl t[>ds ! wat]-hole he
 guid$ me to4 ,9 ?is ,i lay & drank4 ,i 
suppose x soak$ into my sy/em z ra9 9 ! 
e>? aft] a dr\ght4 ,t /agnant pool 0 our
 salvation4 ,! horses 7 br\ght up1 & we 
drank1 & drank aga94 ,n until our ?ir/ 0
 slak$ did we fully realize h[ ! wat]   
/ank6 ,:5 ! m5 7 suffici5tly refre%$ !y 
return$ = ! ab&on$ horses1 :i* 7 f\nd   
/ill alive4 ,_h !y sc5t$ wat] some:]e & 
drank8 ,at ! foot ( ! m\nta9s1 on ! o!r 
side1 we lat] discov]$ mu* bett] wat]1 &
 !re we camp$1 our horses revell+ 9 !   
abundant pa/urage4  ,aft] ?is re/ we    
cont9u$ our j\rney1 & next day came to !
 edge ( a virg9 =e/4 ,?r\gh t1 ! *ief   
said1 we mu/ cut our way1 = ! royal     
tribe nev] came out1 & 7 nev] visit$4   
,close to ! edge ( ! =e/ 0 a deep       
precipice1 at ! bottom ( :i* we c\ld    
disc]n a silv]y /reak ( cle> wat]4 ,f   
!re we mu/ procure ! preci\s fluid =    
ourselves & horses4 ,tak+ our kettle &  
horns1 we s\ght ! be/ po9t to desc5d1 & 

aft] consid]able difficulty1 cl++ to !  
bran*es ( ! ov]hang+ trees & ! d5se     
und]gr[?1 we rea*$ ! bottom4 ,aft] slak+
 our ?ir/ we asc5d$ ) fill$ horns &     
kettle to wat] ! horses4 ,z may be      
suppos$1 ?is 0 a t$i\s task1 & ! desc5t 
_h to be made _m times be=e ! horses 7  
satisfi$4 ,my hat s]v$ = wat]+ pail4    
,next morn+ ! same process 0 repeat$1 & 
!n ! m51 ea* ) long ma*etes ,i _h       
provid$1 set to "w to cut a pa? ?r\gh ! 
=e/1 & ,old ,/abb$ ,arm w5t (f 9 se>* ( 
game4 ,aft] a two h\rs' hunt1 a fat     
o/ri* fell be=e 8 rifle1 & he return$ to
 camp4 ,we /ill _h a little *ip1 :i* _h 
by ?is "t become z h>d z /one1 b :i* ,i 
jeal\sly gu>d$ to use only 9 case ( !   
greate/ em]g5cy4 ,at times we _h be5 v  
hungry1 b my ord] 0 t x %\ld n be t\*$4 
,only ! read] :o has se5 ! virg9 =e/1 ) 
its int]lac+ lianas1 ?ick z a man's     
leg--! ?orns six in*es long & %>p z     
ne$les--c =m an idea ( ! task be=e u4 ,z
 we p5etrat$ f>!r & f>!r 9 ! selva1 !   
d>kness became deep] & deep]4 ,giant    

trees re>$ _! heads "o hundr$ & fifty   
feet into ! heav5s1 & beautiful palms1 )
 sl5d] trunks & delicate1 fea!ry leaves1
 wav$ ov] u4 ,! m$ic9al plants 7        
repres5t$ by s>sap>illa & _m o!rs       
equally valuable4 ,!re 0 ! cocoa palm1 !
 date palm1 & ! cabbage palm1 ! latt] ( 
:i* furni%$ u good food1 :ile ! w9e tree
 af=d$ an excell5t & cool+ dr9k4 ,9 p>ts
 all 0 cov]$ ) beautiful p5dant         
air-fl[]s1 gorge\s ) all ! colors ( !   
ra9b[4 ,monkeys *att]$ & p>rots scream$1
 b o!rwise !re 0 a sombre /illness4 ,!  
exhalations f ! dep? ( rott+ leaves & ! 
decay+ fall5 wood r5d]$ ! /eamy         
atmosph]e mo/ poison\s4 ,truly1 ! flora 
0 magnific5t1 & ! fauna1 repres5t$ by ! 
spott$ jagu>1 ^: ro> at times broke !   
awful quiet ( ! night1 0 equally gr&4   
,z ! *ief1 ignorant ( h\rs & miles1 c\ld
 n tell me ! ext5t ( ! =e/1 ,i det]m9$  
to let him & ,timoteo make _! way ?r\gh 
z be/ !y c\ld1 crawl+ ?r\gh ! bran*es1  
to ! ,sun-,wor%ipp]s1 & secure _! help 9
 cutt+ a way = ! horses4 ,aft] divid+ ! 

food ,i _h1 we sep>at$4 ,timoteo & !    
,indian crept into ! =e/ & 7 soon lo/   
sight (1 :ile ,old ,/abb$ ,arm & ,i1 ) !
 horses1 retrac$ our /eps1 & rea*$ ! op5
 l& aga94 ,aft] an e>ne/ conv]sation my 
companion %\ld]$ 8 rifle & w5t (f to    
hunt1 & ,i 0 left ) only ! companion%ip 
( ! graz+ horses4 ,i rema9$ beh9d to    
wat] ! animals1 & protect our goods f   
any pr[l+ savage :o might *ance to be 9 
! neighborhood4 ,my saddle-b$ 0 spread  
"u a l>ge burn+ bu%1 or inc5se tree1 &  
my self-impos$ duty 0 to keep a fire    
burn+ 9 ! op51 t its smoke might be se5 
by day & its light by night4  ,go+      
explor+ a little1 ,i discov]$ a mu*     
bett] desc5t d[n ! precipice1 & wat] 0 m
 easily br\ght up4 ,inde$1 ,i decid$ t1 
if a c]ta9 deep *asm 7 bridg$ ov]1 x    
might be possible to get ! horses       
!mselves to desc5d by a w9d+ way4 ,) ?is
 object 9 view ,i fell$ sapl+s ne> !    
place1 & 9 a few h\rs con/ruct$ a r\gh  
bridge1 /rong en\gh to be> a horse's    
weight4 ,:e!r ! animals c\ld smell !    

wat] fl[+ at ! bottom1 or 7 m agile ?an 
,i _h ?\ght1 ,i _c tell1 b !y desc5d$ ! 
almo/ p]p5dicul> pa? mo/ wond]fully1 &  
soon 7 tak+ draughts ( ! preci\s liquid 
) great gu/o4 ,leav+ ! horses to enjoy  
_! dr9k1 ,i asc5d$ ! /ream = "s di/ance1
 9 ord] to discov]1 if possible1 :]e !  
fl[ came f4 ,judge ( my surprise :5 ,i  
f\nd t ! wat] ran out ( a grotto1 or    
cav]n1 9 ! face ( ! cliff-out ( ! unkn[n
 d>kness into ! sunlight6 ,walk+ up ! b$
 ( ! /ream1 ,i ent]$ ! cave1 &1 /rik+ a 
few mat*es1 f\nd x to be inhabit$ by    
hundr$s ( vampire bats1 :i* 7 hang+ f ! 
sides & /alactites ( ! ro(1 l s _m damp1
 black rags4 ,on my entrance ! une>?ly  
creatures 7 di/urb$1 & _m came fly+ 9 my
 face1 s ,i made a quick exit4 ,sev]al  
:i* ,i kill$ came float+ d[n ! /ream )  
me2 "o t ,i measur$ prov$ to be         
tw5ty-two in*es across ! w+s4 ,my       
exploration _h discov]$ ! secret ( !    
clots ( blood we _h be5 f9d+ on !       
horses' necks e morn+4 ,! vampire-bats1 
9 _! nightly flights1 _h be5 suck+ !    

life-blood ( our poor1 already />v+     
animals6 ,x is said ^! loa?some         
creatures--half bea/1 half bird--fan _! 
victim to sleep :ile !y dra9 out ! r$   
blood4 ,provid$ ) palm tor*es1 ,i aga9  
ent]$ ! cav]n1 b c\ld n p5etrate its    
dep?s2 x seem$ to g "r into ! b[els ( ! 
m\nta94 ,explor+ d[n /ream 0 m          
successful1 = l>ge flam+oes & wild ducks
 & geese 7 f\nd 9 pl5ty4  ,t night ,i   
c>efully /ak$ out ! horses all ar\nd !  
camp-fire & lay d[n to ?9k & sleep &    
dream4 ,old ,/abb$ ,arm _h n return$1 & 
,i 0 alone ) nature4 ,sev]al times ,i   
rose to see if ! horses 7 securely ti$1 
& to kill any bats ,i might f9d di/urb+ 
!m4 ,ris+ 9 ! grey dawn1 ,i wat]$ !     
horses1 cook$ a piece ( o/ri* meat1 &   
/>t$ (f on foot = a %ort di/ance to     
explore ! c\ntry to ! nor?1 :]e ,i saw  
_m indications t tapirs 7 num]\s4 ,my   
fir/ sight ( ?is peculi> animal (       
,p>aguay ,i %all nev] =get4 ,x resembles
 no o!r bea/ ,i h ev] se51 b seems half 
elephant1 ) its muzzle l a %ort trunk4  

,9 size x is ab\t six feet long & ?ree &
 a half feet high4 ,!re 7 also ant-be>s1
 peculi> animals1 )\t tee?1 b provid$ ) 
a r\gh tongue to lick up ! ants4 ,! l5g?
 ( ?is animal is ab\t f\r feet1 b ! ?ick
 tail is long] ?an ! body4 ,:]eas !     
tapir has a hog-l sk91 ! ant-be> has    
long1 bri/ly hairs4  ,return+ to camp1  
judge ( my surprise :5 ,i f\nd x 9      
possession ( two savages ( /range       
appe>ance4 ,my fir/ ?\ght 0 t ,i _h lo/ 
all1 b1 draw+ ne>]1 ,i discov]$ t       
,timoteo & ! *ief 7 also !re1 squatt+ on
 ! gr\nd1 dev\r+ ! rema9s ( my breakfa/4
 ,!y _h return$ f ! royal tribe1 :o _h  
(f]$ to cut a way f _! side1 & ^! two   
/rang]s 7 to assi/ u4  ,) ?is additional
 help we aga9 p5etrat$ ! =e/4 ,! m5 cut 
) a w1 & ,i drove ! horses aft] !m4     
,black1 h[l+ monkeys1 ) long be>ds &    
grave c\nt5ances1 leapt among ! trees4  
,r$ & blue macaws scree*$ ov]head1 & _m 
a l>ge s]p5t receiv$ its dea?-bl[ f our 
ma*etes4 ,sometimes we 7 =tunate en\gh  
to secure a bees' ne/ full ( honey1 or  

f9d lusci\s fruit4 ,at times ,i /opp$ to
 admire a giant tree1 eight or t5 feet 9
 diamet]1 or or*ids ( ! mo/ delicate    
hues1 b ! passage 0 h>d & try+1 & !     
/agnant air mo/ difficult to brea!4 ,!  
fall5 tree-trunks1 ov] :i* we _h to /ep1
 or g ar\nd or "u1 7 v num]\s1 &        
sometimes we l&$ 9 a b$1 n ( roses1 b ( 
?orns4 ,slo?s & /range birds' ne/s hung 
f ! trees1 :ile ! mosquitos & insects   
made life almo/ un5durable4 ,we 7 cov]$ 
) c>apatas1 bruis$ & torn1 & almo/ eat5 
up alive ) insects4   ,illu/ration3     
,,p>aguayan ,,=e/ ,,indian4 ,^! dw>f m5 
use a v long b[1 :ile ! ,patagonian uses
 a %ort "o   ,"u ! spread+ bran*es ( "o 
( ! l>ge/ trees we came ^u an ab&on$    
,indian camp4 ,?is1 ,i 0 told1 _h       
belong$ to ! little m5 ( ! woods1 hairy 
dw>fs1 a few ( :om inhabit ! dep?s ( !  
=e/1 & kill _! game ) bl[-pipes4 ,(     
c\rse we saw none ( ! poor creatures4   
,_! sc5t is z ke5 z an animal's2 !y are 
agile z monkeys1 & make (f to hide 9 !  
holl[ trunks ( trees1 or bury !mselves 9

 ! decay+ vegetation until dang] is pa/4
 ,poor pigmy6 ,:at place w he occupy 9 !
 life t is to be8     ,,*apt] ,x4  ,,we 
,,rea* ,,! ,,sun-,,wor%ipp]s4   ,aft] "s
 days' j\rney we he>d %\ts1 & knew t1 l 
entomb$ m9]s1 we 7 be+ dug out on ! o!r 
side6 ,! ,ca+was soon met u1 & ,i look$ 
into _! faces & gravely salut$4 ,!y />$ 
at me 9 spee*less a/oni%m5t1 & ,i z     
curi\sly reg>d$ !m4 ,ea* man _h 8 l[]   
lip pi]c$ & wore ! b>bote ,i h describ$1
 ) ! diff]5ce t ^! 7 made ( gum4  ,) a  
cle> pa? be=e u we n[ made bett]        
progress1 & be=e long em]g$ f ! liv+    
tomb1 b ! memory ( x w ev] rema9 a      
nightm>e4  ,we f\nd a cr[d ( excit$     
,indians1 "y & old1 await+ u4 ,_m ( !   
females ran l fright5$ de] on cat*+     
sight ( me1 b an old man1 :om ,i        
aft]w>ds le>n$ 0 ! ,high ,prie/ ( !     
tribe1 came & ask$ my bus9ess4 ,assur+  
him1 ?r\gh ,timoteo1 t my mission 0     
peaceable1 & t ,i _h pres5ts = !m1 he   
gave me p]mission to ent] into ! glade1 
:]e ,i 0 told ,n&ey>a ,footnote3 ,our   

,own]1 ! mo/ beautiful ^w = ,god ,i h   
ev] he>d4 _h plac$ !m at ! beg9n+ ( !   
_w4 ,_h ,i discov]$ ! ,g>d5 ( ,ed51 !   
place f :i* man _h be5 w&]+ = #f1jjj    
ye>s8 ,i 0 conduct$ by ,rocan&iv 7! high
 prie/7 d[n a /eep pa? to ! valley1 :]e 
we came 9 view ( sev]al l>ge peculi>ly  
%ap$ h\ses1 built ( bamboo4 ,ne> ^!     
dwell+s 7 p]haps a hundr$ m51 wom5 &    
*ildr51 remnants ( a vani%+ nation4 ,"s 
_h a mat ar\nd _! lo9s1 b _m 7 nak$4    
,all ! males _h ! b>bote 9 ! lip1 & _h  
exceptionally ?ick hair1 matt$ ) grease 
& mud4 ,mo/ ( !m _h a repellant look on 
_! pigm5t-pa9t$ faces1 & ,i c\ld v      
di/9ctly see t ,i 0 n a welcome visitor4
 ,no1 ,i _h n rea*$ ,ed56 ,only beyond !
 cl\ds & beyond ! tomb w\ld ! b[]s (    
,ed5 be discov]$ to me4 ,he>+ dome/ic   
h5s cackl+ ar\nd ! h\ses1 ,i bade       
,timoteo tell ! prie/ t we 7 v hungry1 &
 t if he kill$ two *ick5s = u ,i w\ld   
give him a beautiful gift lat] on4 ,!   
prie/ di/9ctly in=m$ me1 h[ev]1 t ,i mu/
 give fir/1 or no f[l w\ld be kill$4 ,f 

t decision ,i tri$ to move him1 urg+ t  
,i 0 tir$1 ! pack 0 h>d to undo1 &      
to-morr[1 :5 ,i 0 re/$1 ,i w\ld well    
repay !m ! k9dness4 ,my words 7 ?r[n    
away2 n a bite %\ld we eat until !      
promis$ knife 0 giv54 ,i 0 fa9t ) hung]1
 b f ! load on ! packhorse ,i procur$ ! 
knife1 :i* ,i h&$ to my unwill+ ho/ ) ! 
promise ( o!r gifts lat]4 ,on receipt ( 
?is treasure he gave ord]s to ! boys /&+
 (f at a di/ance to cat* two *ick5s4 ,! 
birds 7 knock$ ov] by ! /ones ?r[n at   
!m4 ,two wom5 n[ came =w>d ) clay pots  
on _! heads & fire-/icks 9 _! h&s1 & !y 
sup]9t5d$ ! cook+4 ,)\t cutt+ (f ei!r   
heads or legs1 or pull+ out ! birds'    
fea!rs1 ! *ick5s 7 plac$ 9 ! pots )     
wat]4 ,ly+ d[n ne> ! fire1 ,i1 manlike1 
impati5tly wait$ = supp]4 ,p]haps a     
m9ute _h dragg$ its we>y l5g? along :5  
,i pick$ up a /ick f ! gr\nd & pok$ "o (
 ! f[ls out ( ! wat]1 :i* 0 n yet w>m4  
,hold+ ! bird 9 "o h&1 & pull+ fea!rs   
out ( my m\? ) ! o!r1 ,i ate z my       
=efa!rs did ages ago4 ,ye>s be=e ?is ,i 

_h le>n$ t a hungry man c eat :at an    
epicure despises4 ,aft] ?is fea/ ,i lay 
d[n on ! gr\nd beh9d "o ( ! tepees1 &1 )
 my head re/+ on my mo/ valu$           
possessions1 w5t to sleep4  ,hav+       
promis$ to give ! prie/ & 8 wife ano!r  
pres5t1 ,i 0 awak5$ v e>ly next morn+4  
,!y _h come = _! gifts4 ,ris+ f my h>d  
b$1 ,i /ret*$ myself & awoke my s]vant1 
"u ^: head 7 ! look+-glasses4 ,i pres5t$
 "o ( ^! to ! woman1 :o look$ 9 x )     
satisfaction & evid5t pleasure4 ,:e!r %e
 0 pleas$ ) h] reflection or ) ! glass  
,i _c tell1 b ,i feel sure x mu/ h be5 !
 latt]6 ,a necklace to ! daught] & a    
fur!r gift to ! old man ga9$ _!         
fri5d%ip1 & food 0 br\ght to u4 ,aft]   
p>tak+ ( ?is ,i 0 in=m$ t ! k+ desir$ to
 see me1 & t ,i mu/ proce$ at once to 8 
hut4  ,8 maje/y 787 liv$ on ! o!r side (
 ! riv]1 close at h&4 ,?is wat] 0 (     
c\rse unbridg$1 s1 9 ord] to cross1 ,i 0
 compell$ to dive/ myself ( my clo?+ &  
walk ?r\gh x 9 nature's g>b4 ,! wat]    
came up to my brea/1 & once ,i ?\ght !  

clo!s ,i c>ri$ on my head w\ld get wet4 
,dress+ on ! o!r side1 ,i pres5t$ myself
 at ! k+'s abode4 ,!re ,i 0 k9dly       
receiv$1 be+ invit$ to take up my qu>t]s
 ) him & 8 royal family4 ,! k+ 0 a tall 
man ( some:at comm&+ appe>ance1 b1 save 
= ! lo9 clo?1 he 0 nak$1 l ! re/4 ,!    
que51 a little woman1 0 z scantily      
dress$ z h] husb&4 ,%e 0 v %y1 & ,i     
notic$ ! re/ ( ! inmates ( ! hut peep+  
?r\gh ! crevices ( ! corn-/alk p>tition 
( an inn] room4 ,aft] plac+ ar\nd !     
%apely neck ( ! que5 a specially f9e    
necklace ,i _h br\ght1 & giv+ ! k+ a    
l>ge hunt+-knife1 ,i 0 regal$ ) roa/$   
yams1 & lat] on ) a :ole wat]melon4     
,timoteo1 my s]vant1 ^: native language 
0 ,gu>ani1 c\ld und]/& mo/ ( ! idiom ( !
 ,sun ,wor%ipp]s1 :i* we f\nd to be     
simil> to t spok5 by ! civiliz$         
inhabitants ( ! c\ntry4 ,!re mu/ !re=e h
 be5 "s connection betwe5 ! two peoples 
at "o "t4 ,! que/ions1 ,:]e h y come f8 
,:y h y come8 7 ask$ & answ]$1 & ,i1 9  
return1 le>n$ mu* ( ?is /range tribe4   

,mt 0 s]v$1 b :]eas 9 ! outside _w a    
ru/y t9 tube to suck x ?r\gh is 9       
possession ( ev5 ! poore/1 "h !y us$    
only a re$4 ,i 0 a/oni%$ to f9d ! mt    
sweet5$4 ,kn[+ t !y c\ld n possibly h   
any ( ! luxuries ( civilization1 ,i made
 enquiries reg>d+ ?is1 & 0 told t !y us$
 a h]b :i* grew 9 ! valley1 to :i* !y   
gave ! "n ( c-ha h-h 7sweet h]b74 ,?is  
plant1 :i* is n unlike clov]1 is sweet z
 sug>1 :e!r eat5 gre5 or 9 a dri$ /ate4 
,!re 0 n a seat ( any description 9 !   
hut1 b ! k+ said1 ,eguap 7,sit d[n71 s  
,i squatt$ on ! e>!n floor4 ,a broom is 
n to be f\nd 9 ! k+dom1 & ! h\se _h nev]
 be5 swept6  ,a curiosity ,i notic$ 0 ! 
calaba% :i* ! k+ c>ri$ atta*$ to 8 belt4
 ,?is relic 0 reg>d$ ) great rev]5ce1 & 
at fir/ ,8 ,maje/y decl9$ to reveal its 
"*2 b aft] ,i _h won 8 confid5ce by     
gifts ( beads & mirrors1 he became m    
communicative4 ,"o day1 9 a bur/ (      
pride1 he told me t ! g\rd conta9$ !    
a%es ( 8 ance/ors1 :o 7 ! anci5t k+s4   
,?\gh ! ,spani>ds s\ght to c>efully r\t 

out & de/roy all direct desc5dants ( !  
royal family ( ! ,incas1 _! hi/orians   
tell u t "s remote connections escap$4  
,! ,indians ( ,p]u h leg5ds to ! effect 
t at ! "t ( ! ,spani% invasion an ,inca 
*iefta9 l$ an emigration ( 8 p d[n !    
m\nta9s4 ,humboldt1 writ+ 9 ! #ah?      
c5tury1 said3 ,x is int]e/+ to inquire  
:e!r any o!r pr9ces ( ! family ( ,manco 
,capac h rema9$ 9 ! =e/s2 & if !re /ill 
exi/ any ( ! ,incas ( ,p]u 9 o!r places4
 ,_h ,i discov]$ "s desc5dants ( ?is    
vani%$ race8 ,! ,montreal ,j\rnal1      
comm5t+ on my discov]y1 said3 ,! "q is (
 extreme int]e/ to ! sci5tific enquir]1 
ev5 if !y are n :at ,mr4 ,ray ?9ks !m4  
,! royal family consi/$ ( ! p>5ts1 a son
 & 8 wife1 a daught] & h] husb&1 & two  
y\ng] girls4 ,i 0 invit$ to sleep 9 !   
inn] room1 :i* ! p>5ts occupi$1 & ! two 
m>ri$ c\ples rema9$ 9 ! common room4    
,all slept 9 fibre hammocks1 made greasy
 & black by ! smoke f ! fire burn+ on ! 
floor 9 ! c5tre ( ! room4 ,no *imney1   
w9d[1 door1 or article ( furniture grac$

 ! h\se4  ,! c\rt ( ! ,incas rivall$ t (
 ,rome1 ,j]usalem1 or any ( ! old       
,ori5tal c\ntries1 9 ri*es & %[1 !      
palaces be+ decorat$ ) a great pr(usion 
( gold1 silv]1 f9e clo? & preci\s /ones4
 ,footnote3 ,rev4 ,?omas ,wood1         
,,ll4,d41 ,lima1 ,p]u1 ,9 ,prote/ant    
,missions 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,an anci5t   
,spani% writ] :o measur$ "s ( ! /ones ( 
! ,incan palace at ,cuzco tells u !re 7 
/ones s nicely adju/$ t x 0 impossible  
to introduce ev5 ! blade ( a knife      
betwe5 !m1 & t "s ( ^? /ones 7          
?irty-eight feet long1 by eighte5 feet  
broad1 & six feet ?ick4 ,:at a desc5t = 
! ,*ildr5 ( ! ,sun6 ,h[ are ! mighty    
fall56 ,?\ghts ( ! pa/ & ! mean pres5t  
pass$ ?r\gh my m9d z ,i lay d[n 9 ! du/ 
( ! e>!n floor t fir/ night ( my /ay ) !
 k+4  ,ow+ to ! ?\s&s ( fleas 9 ! du/ ( 
! room x 0 h>d = me to re/ mu*1 & t     
night a /orm brew+ made sleep almo/     
impossible4 ,z ! ?und] peal$ =? all !   
,indians ( ! h\ses ha/ily got out ( _!  
hammocks & grasp$ g\rd rattles &        

beautifully wov5 cotton bann]s4 ,!      
rattles 7 %ak5  & ! bann]s wav$1 :ile a 
dron+ *ant 0 /ruck up by ! high prie/1 &
 ! l\d] ! ?und] roll$ ! l\d] _! voices  
rose & ! m lu/ily !y %ook ! se$s 9 _!   
calaba%es4 ,!y 7 try+ to appease ! dread
 deity ( ,?und]1 z did _! ,inca         
ance/ors4 ,! voice ( ! old prie/ l$ !   
wor%ip1 & = f\r h\rs !re 0 no cessation 
( ! monoton\s song1 except :5 he p]=m$  
"s my/ic c]emony :i* ,i und]/ood n4  ,j 
z ! old prie/ _h awak5$ me ! fir/ morn+ 
to ask = 8 pres5t1 s ! k+ came tapp+ me 
g5tly ! second4 ,9 8 h& he _h a l>ge    
sweet potato1 & 9 my half-dreamy /ate ,i
 he>d him say+1 ,give me y\r coat4 ,eat 
a potato8 ,! *ange ,i ?\ght 0 greatly to
 8 advantage1 b ,i 0 anxi\s to please   
him4 ,i possess$ two coats1 :ile he 01 z
 he said1 a poor old man1 & _h no coat4 
,! b>t] 0 conclud$2 ,i ate ! potato1 &  
he1 ) /range grimaces1 donn$ a coat = ! 
fir/ "t 9 8 life4 ,?9k ( ?is = an alleg$
 desc5dant ( ! great ,atahuallpa1 ^:    
robes & jewels 7 priceless6  ,i (f]$ to 

give ! que5 a fem99e g>m5t ( :ite cotton
 if %e w\ld we> x1 b ?is ,i c\ld n      
prevail ^u h] to d2 x 0 ugly4 ,z a      
lo9-clo?1 %e w\ld use x1 b put x on--no6
 ,9 ! latt] savage /yle ! %ap$ g>m5t 0  
!reaft] worn4 ,wom5 h fa%ions all ov] ! 
globe4  ,! few in*es ( clo?+ worn by !  
,ca+wa wom5 are nev] wa%$1 & ! only     
attempt at cleans+ ! body ,i saw :5     
among !m 0 t ( a woman :o fill$ h] m\? )
 wat] & squirt$ x back on h] h&s1 :i* %e
 !n wip$ on h] lo9-clo?6  ,prescott1    
writ+ ( ! ,incas1 says3 ,!y lov$ to     
indulge 9 ! luxury ( _! ba?s1 repl5i%$  
by /reams ( cry/al wat] :i* 7 conduct$  
?r\gh subt]rane\s silv] *annels into    
bas9s ( gold4  ,! %apely little m\? ( ! 
que5 0 spoilt by ! habit %e _h ( smok+ a
 heavy pipe made ( r$ clay4 ,i 0 /ruck )
 ! weight & %ape ( ?is1 = x exactly     
resembl$ ^? made by ! old cliff-dwell]s1
 unkn[n c5turies ago4 ,"o w weigh at    
lea/ a qu>t] ( a p\nd4 ,= a m\?-piece !y
 use a bird's quill4 ,! tobacco !y gr[  
!mselves4  ,ne> ! royal abode 7 ! kit*5 

g>d5s4 ,a tract ( =e/ _h be5 fir$1 & ?is
 cle>+ plant$ ) bananas1 m&ioca1 sweet  
potatoes1 etc4 ,! black5$ trunks ( !    
trees rose up l s _m evil spirits above 
! gre5 foliage4 ,! g>d5 implem5ts us$ 7 
( ! mo/ primitive description2 a crook$ 
/ick s]v$ = hoe1 & long1 heavy1 %>p5$   
iron-wood clubs 7 us$ in/ead ( ! /eel   
pl\gh ( civilization4  ,z ,i h already  
rem>k$1 ,i f\nd ! p 7 sun-wor%ipp]s4    
,ea* morn+1 j z ! ris+ sun lit up !     
ea/]n sky1 "y & old came out ( _! h\ses1
 ! old] ones c>ry+ empty g\rds ) ! dry  
se$s inside4 ,at a signal f ! high      
prie/1 a solemn dron+ *ant 0 /ruck up1  
to ! monoton\s "t kept by ! num]\s g\rd 
rattles4 ,z ! sun rose high] & high]1 ! 
*ant+ grew l\d] & l\d]1 & ! e*oes ( ,he6
 he6 he6 ha6 ha6 ha6 laima6 laima6 7    
repeat$ by ! di/ant hills4 ,:5 ! alt> ( 
inc5se 7describ$ lat]7 0 illum9at$ by ! 
sun-god1 ! *ant+ ceas$4  ,aft] ?is      
solemn wor%ip ( ! ,orb ( ,day1 ! wom51 )
 quiet demeanor & 9 s+le file1 w5t (f to
 _! "w 9 ! g>d5s4 ,on return+1 ea* c>ri$

 a basket made ( light canes1 slung on !
 back & held up by plait$ fibres =m+ a  
b& :i* came across _! =eheads4 ,!       
baskets conta9$ ! day's vegetables4     
,meat 0 seldom eat5 by !m1 b ?is 0      
probably because ( its sc>city1 = :5 we 
kill$ an o/ri* !y clamor$ = a %>e4      
,reptiles ( all k9ds1 & ev5 cat]pill>s1 
are dev\r$ by !m :5 hungry4  ,! ,ca+was 
are "u ! av]age height1 b use ! longe/  
b[s & arr[s ,i h ev] se54 ,"s ,i br\ght 
away measure ne>ly sev5 feet 9 l5g?4 ,! 
po9ts are made ( %>p5$ iron-wood1 not*$ 
l ! back ( a fi%-hook1 & !y are poison$ 
) s]p5t v5om4 ,besides ^! weapons1 x 0  
c]ta9ly /range to f9d !m liv+ 9 ! /one  
age1 = 9 ! h&s ( ! old] memb]s ( ! tribe
 7 to be se5 /one axes4 ,! h&les ( ^!   
primitive weapons are scrap$ into %ape  
by fl9ts1 z probably our savage =efa!rs 
9 ,brita9 did !irs two ?\s& ye>s ago4   
,ent]+ ! l[1 n>r[ doorway ( "o ( !      
bamboo frame h\ses1 ,i saw t x 0 divid$ 
into t5-foot squ>es by corn-/alk        
p>titions a y>d high4 ,^! places1 l s _m

 /alls = horses1 run d[n ea* side ( !   
hog4 ,"o family occupies a division1    
sleep+ 9 net hammocks made ( long1 co>se
 grass4 ,a family man usually has b&s ( 
human hair twi/$ ar\nd 8 legs bel[ !    
knees1 & also ar\nd ! wri/s4 ,?is hair  
is torn f 8 wife's head4 ,d[n ! c5tre   
are num]\s fires = cook+ purposes1 b !  
h\se 0 de/itute ( *imney4 ,wood is      
burn$1 & ! place 0 at times s full (    
smoke t ,i c\ld n di/+ui% "o ,indian f  
ano!r4 ,=tunately1 ! walls ( ! h\se1 z 0
 also ! ro(1 7 9 bad repair1 & "s ( !   
smoke escap$ ?r\gh ! *9ks4 ,sixty p liv$
 9 ! l>ge/ hog1 & ,i judg$ ! numb] ( !  
:ole tribe to be ab\t ?ree hundr$4  ,!  
doorways ( all ! h\ses fac$ t[>ds ! ea/1
 z did ^? ( ! ,inca4 ,9 ! pr9cipal "o1  
:]e ! high prie/ liv$1 a squ>e alt> ( r$
 clay 0 erect$4 ,i quickly notic$ t on  
?is elevation1 :i* 0 ab\t a y>d high1   
!re burn$ a v c>efully t5d$ fire ( holy 
wood4 ,enquir+ ! mean+ ( ?is1 ,i 0 in=m$
 t1 v _m moons ago1 ,n&e-y>a _h come 9  
p]son to visit ! tribe1 & :5 ) !m _h lit

 ! fire1 :i*1 he said1 !y mu/ n "u any  
circum/ances suff] to die out4 ,ev] s9ce
 !n ! smoke ( ! inc5se _h asc5d$ to _!  
,own] 9 8 f>-(f dwell+4  ,h[ =cibly 0 ,i
 rem9d$ ( ! scripture ref]r+ to ! ,jewi%
 alt> ( long ago1 ,!re ! fire %all ev]  
be burn+ ^u ! alt>2 x %all nev] g out4  
,if ,i _h n discov]$ ,ed51 ,i _h at lea/
 f\nd ! alt> & fire ( ,ed5ic orig94     
,beh9d ! alt>1 occupy+ ! /all directly  
opposite ! doorway1 /ood ! tribal god4  
,z ! ,ca+was are sun-wor%ipp]s1 ,i 0    
surpris$ to see ?is1 b ,rocan&ivia1 )   
grave demeanor1 told me t :5 ,n&ey>a    
dep>t$ f !m he left beh9d him 8         
repres5tative4 ,9 ! *apt] on ,m>iolatry1
 ,i h trac$ ! natural t5d5cy ( man to   
s9k f spiritual to image wor%ip1 & ,i   
f\nd t ! ,ca+was1 l all pagans1 _h      
rev]t$ to a some?+ !y c\ld see & feel4  
,rememb]+ t !y _h nev] he>d ! second    
comm&m5t1 writt5 by ,god because ( ?is  
fail+ 9 man1 we c excuse !m1 b :at %all 
be said ( ! enlight5$ ,romani/s8  ,be+  
exce$+ly anxi\s to procure _! ,copy (   

,god1 ,i tri$ to b>ga9 ) ! prie/4 ,i    
(f]$ him "o ?+ & ano!r1 b to all my     
proposals he turn$ a deaf e>1 & f9ally1 
gl>+ at me1 said t no?+ w\ld ev] induce 
him to "p ) x4 ,! p w\ld nev] all[ !    
image to be tak5 away1 z ! life ( !     
tribe 0 b\nd up ) x ,see+ t he 0 n to be
 mov$1 ,i desi/$1 ?\gh a covet\s look 9 
8 eye :5 ,i (f]$ a beautiful color$ rug 
9 ex*ange gave me hope1 ,rocan&iva 01 l 
mo/ idolatr\s prie/s1 v fanatical4 ,:5  
he le>n$ t ,i pr(ess$ & taught a diff]5t
 religion1 8 jeal\sy 0 mo/ m>k$1 & he   
(t5 told me to g f !m1 ,i 0 n want$4    
,liv+ ) ! k+1 h[ev]1 sav$ me f ejection4
  ,"o day ! prie/1 ev] on ! beg1 0      
anxi\s to obta9 "s article f me1 & ,i   
det]m9$ to give x only on "o condition4 
,be+ anxi\s to tell ! p ! /ory ( ,jesus1
 ,i _h repeat$ly ask$ p]mission ( him1 b
 _h be5 z (t5 repuls$4 ,!y did n want   
me1 or any new words1 he w\ld reply4    
,turn+ to him n[1 ,i said1 ,rocan&iva1  
if y w all[ me to tell 'words' to ! p y 
%all h ! pres5t4 ,! prie/ turn$ on 8    

heel & left me4 ,kn[+ 8 cupidity1 ,i 0 n
 surpris$ :51 lat]1 he came to me & said
 t ,i c\ld tell !m words1 & held out 8  
h& = ! gift4  ,aft] sun-wor%ip next     
morn+ ! k+ ann\nc$ t ,i _h some?+ new to
 tell !m4 ,:5 all 7 seat$ on ! gr\nd 9  
wond]+ sil5ce1 ,i began 9 simple        
language to tell ! old1 old /ory4 ,my   
address 0 some:at simil> to ! foll[+3   
,_m moons ago1 ,n&ey>a1 look+ d[n f 8   
abode1 saw t all ! m5 & wom5 & *ildr5 9 
! _w 7 bad2 t is1 !y _h done wrong ?+s1 
su* z 4 4 4 ,n[ ,god has a ,son1 & to   
,him ,he said1 ,look d[n & see4 ,all are
 do+ wick$ ?+s6 ,he look$ & saw4 ,!     
,fa!r said t = _! s9 !y %\ld h to die1 b
 t ,jesus1 ,8 ,son1 c\ld come d[n & die 
9 _! place4 ,! ,son came1 & liv$ on e>? 
_m moons2 b 0 hat$1 & at la/ caught1 &  
l>ge pieces ( iron 7l ! prie/'s knife7 7
 put into ,8 h&s & feet1 & ,he 0 fa/5$  
to a tree4 ,aft] ?is a man came1 &1 ) a 
v long knife1 br\ght ! blood out ( !    
side ( ,jesus1 & ,he di$4 ,purpos+ to   
fur!r expla9 my /ory1 ,i 0 n pleas$ :5 !

 prie/ /opp$ me1 &1 /epp+ =?1 told ! p t
 my acc\nt 0 n true4 ,he !n 9 eloqu5t   
tones relat$ to !m :at he call$ ! real  
/ory1 to :i* ,i li/5$ 9 amaz$ wond]4    
,_m moons ago1 he began1 we 7 dy+ (     
hung]6 ,"o day ! ,sun1 our god1 *ang$   
into a man1 & he walk$ d[n t road4 7,"h 
he po9t$ to ! ea/47 ,! *ief met him4    
',all y\r p are dy+ ( hung]1' said god4 
',yes1 !y are1' ! *ief repli$4 ',w y die
 in/ead ( all ! p8' ,n&ey>a said4 ',yes1
 ,i w1' ! *ief answ]$4 ,he imm$iately   
dropp$ d[n dead1 & god came to ! village
 :]e we all are n[4 ',y\r *ief is ly+   
dead up ! road1' he said1 'g & bury him1
 & aft] ?ree days are pass$ visit !     
grave1 :5 y w f9d a plant gr[+ out (  8 
m\?2 t w be corn1 & x w save y6' ,!n1   
turn+ to me1 ! prie/ said3 ,?is we did1 
& behold u alive6 ,t is ! /ory6 ,a      
/range leg5d1 surely1 & yet ! read] w be
 /ruck ) ! gra9s ( tru? int]m+l$--life1 
result+ f ! sacrificial dea? ( ano!r2 ! 
sub/itution ( ! "o = ! _m2 ! life-giv+  
se$ g]m9at+ aft] ?ree days' burial1     

rem9d+ "o ( ,john #ab3bd3 ,except a corn
 ( :eat fall into ! gr\nd & die1 x      
abide? alone2 b if x die1 x br+e? =? mu*
 fruit4 ,/range t s _m aborig9al p h    
leg5ds s ne> ! tru?4  ,"s days lat] !   
*iefs son & ,i 7 alone1 & ,i saw t      
some?+ tr\bl$ him4 ,he tri$ to tell me1 
b ,i 0 some:at ignorant ( 8 language1 s1
 aft] look+ 9 all directions to see t we
 7 really alone1 he l$ ! way into a d>k 
corn] ( ! hog1 :]e we 74 ,!re1 f "u a   
pile ( g>d5 baskets1 calaba%es1 etc41 he
 br\ght out a peculi>ly-%ap$ g\rd1 full 
( "s r$1 p[d]y sub/ance4 ,?is1 ) trembl+
 ha/e1 he put into my h&1 & seem$       
greatly reliev$ :5 ,i _h x securely4    
,go+ !n to ! corn] :]e ,i kept my goods1
 he took up a box ( mat*es & made signs 
= me to ex*ange1 :i* ,i did4 ,:5        
,timoteo return$ ,i le>n$ t ! "y man 0  
cu/odian ( ! devil--! only & orig9al    
"o--& t he _h palm$ him (f on me = a box
 ( mat*es6 ,h[ ! sup]/ition ( ! visible 
pres5ce ( ! devil orig9at$ ,i h no idea1
 b !re might be "s mean+ 9 ! man's e>ne/

 desire to ex*ange x = mat*es1 or       
lights1 ! emblem ( _! fire or           
sun-wor%ip4 ,0 ?is simple deal fall5    
man's feeble ef=t to rid himself ( !    
,usurp] & get back ! ,fa!r1 = x is v    
significant t ! ,ca+wa ^w1 ta-ta        
7light71 signifies also fa!r4 ,d !y ne$ 
light1 or are !y suffici5tly illum9$ =  
"t & et]nity8 ,w ! read] rev]5tly /& )  
me1 9 imag9ation1 beside an ,indian     
grave8 ,a girl has di$ ?r\gh snake      
poison+4 ,a %all[ grave has be5 dug = h]
 rema9s4 ,into ?is hole h] body has be5 
dropp$1 unc(f9$1 9 a sitt+ position4    
,beside ! body is plac$ "s food & a few 
paltry tr9kets1 & ! p /& ar\nd ) t      
disconsolate look :i* is only se5 ^u !  
faces ( ^? :o "k n ! ,fa!r4 ,z !y ?us   
l+]1 ! wit*-doctor asks1 ,is ! dog      
kill$8 ,someone replies1 ,yes1 ! dog is 
kill$4 ,is ! head cut (f8 is !n ask$4   
,yes1 ! head is (f1 is ! reply4 ,put x 9
 ! grave1 !n1 says ! m$ic9e man2 & !n ! 
dog's head is dropp$ at ! girl's feet4  
,:y d !y d ?is8 y ask4 ,"q _! wise man1 

& he w say3 ,a dog is a v clev] animal4 
,he c always f9d 8 way4 ,a girl gets lo/
 :5 alone4 ,= t reason we place a dog's 
head ) h]1 t x may guide h] 9 ! _s life4
 ,i ask aga91 ,d !y ne$ mission>ies8    
,my /ay ) ! sun-wor%ipp]s1 ?\gh int]e/+1
 0 pa9ful4 ,except+ :5 we cook$ our own 
food1 ,i almo/ />v$4 ,_! habits are     
extremely fil?y1 inde$ m loa?some &     
disgu/+ ?an ,i d>e relate4  ,my horses 7
 by n[ refre%$ ) _! re/1 & appe>$ able =
 ! return j\rney1 s ,i det]m9$ to />t   
back to civilization4 ,! prie/ he>d ( my
 decision ) unfeign$ joy1 b ! k+ & que5 
7 sorr[ful4 ,^! press$ me to return aga9
 "s "t1 b said ,i mu/ br+ ) me a boca   
7gun7 l my own = ! k+1 ) "s m /r+s (    
:ite beads = ! que5's wri/s4  ,:ile     
saddl+ our horses 9 ! grey dawn1 ! wily 
prie/ came to me ) a bundle1 &1 quietly 
draw+ me aside1 said t ,n&ey>a 0 inside1
 & 9 ex*ange = ! bright rug ,i c\ld take
 him away4 ,! ex*ange 0 made1 & ,i ti$  
_! god1 along ) b[s & arr[s1 etc41 on ! 
back ( a horse1 & we said f>ewell4 ,i _h

 /rict ord]s to cov] up ! idol f ! eyes 
( ! p until we got away4 ,ev5 :5 miles  
di/ant1 ,i kept look+ back1 fe>+ t !    
dup$ ,indians 7 foll[+ 9 enrag$ numb]s4 
,( c\rse1 ! prie/ w\ld give out t ,i _h 
/ol5 ! image4  ,ah1 ,rocan&iva1 y are n 
! fir/ :o has be5 will+ to sell 8 god = 
worldly ga96 ,! h& ( ,judas burn$ )     
?irty pieces ( silv]1 ! e>?ly value ( ! 
,div9e ,"o4 ,pilate1 = p]sonal pr(it1   
said3 ,let ,him be crucifi$4 ,& millions
 to-day sell ,him = a mess ( pottage4   
,! same horse bore away ! devil & god1 s
 p]haps )\t ! "o !re w\ld be no ne$ ( ! 
o!r4  ,s prolific is ! vegetation t dur+
 our few weeks' /ay ) ! ,indians !      
creep+ ?orns & bri>s _h almo/ cov]$ up !
 pa? we _h cut ?r\gh ! =e/1 & x 0 aga9  
necess>y to use our ma*etes4 ,! l>g]    
gr[?1 h[ev]1 be+ d[n1 ?is 0 n difficult1
 & we ent]$ its sombre /illness once m4 
,:at /range creatures p its tangl$      
recesses we knew n4       ,= bea/s &    
birds h se5 & he>d      ,t :i* man kn[e?
 n4  ,i hurri$ ?r\gh ) little wi% to    

p5etrate its secret4 ,m]e exi/5ce 0 h>d 
en\gh 9 its /eam+ semi-d>kness4 ,our    
clo!s 7 n[ almo/ torn to %r$s 7,i _h    
s\ght to m5d m9e ) horse-hair ?read1 )  
poor results71 & we duly em]g$ into     
daylight on ! o!r side1 ragg$1 torn &   
dirty4  ,our j\rney back to civilization
 0 simil> to ! outw>d way4 ,we select$ a
 slightly diff]5t r\te1 b left ! old    
*ief safe & well ) 8 p4  ,"o night our  
horses 7 />tl$ by a b\nd+ jagu>1 & 7 s  
t]rifi$ t !y broke away & scatt]$ 9 all 
directions4 ,se>*+ = !m deta9$ u a :ole 
day1 b =tunately we 7 able to r\nd !m   
all up aga94 ,two 7 f\nd 9 a wood (     
/rangely-%ap$ bu%es1 ^: l>ge1 t\gh      
leaves ru/l$ l p>*m5t4  ,"o aft]noon a  
heavy ra9 came on1 & we /opp$ to        
con/ruct a %elt] ( gre5 bran*es1 into   
:i* we crept4 ,! d[np\r became s heavy t
 x dripp$ ?r\gh our ha/ily-con/ruct$    
arbor1 & we 7 soon soak+ wet4 ,ow+ to ! 
dampness ( ! fuel1 x 0 only aft] mu*    
pati5t "w t we 7 able to light a fire & 
dry our clo!s4 ,!re we rema9$ = ?ree    

days1 ,timoteo sigh+ = ,pegwaomi1 & !   
w9d sigh+ /ill l\d]1 to our discom=t4   
,ev]y?+ we _h 0 saturat$4 ,sleep+ on !  
soak+ gr\nd1 ! poison\s t>antula spid]s 
crept ov] u4 ,^! loa?some creatures1    
second only to ! s]p5t1 are frequ5tly s 
l>ge z to spread _! ?ick1 hairy legs ov]
 a six-in* diamet]4  ,! /orm pass$1 & we
 />t$ (f t[>ds ! riv] ,ipane1 :i* 0 n[  
consid]ably swoll54 ,?ree times on !    
exp$ition we _h halt$ to build r\gh     
bridges ov] *asms or m\nta9 /reams )    
p]p5dicul> banks1 b ?is 0 broad & _h to 
be cross$ ?r\gh ! wat]4 ,z ,i rode !    
l>ge/ & /ronge/ horse1 x 0 my place to  
v5ture fir/ into ! ru%+ /ream4 ,! animal
 bravely /emm$ ! curr5t1 z did ! re/1 b 
,old ,/abb$ ,arm1 rid+ a weak] horse1   
ne>ly lo/ 8 life4 ,! animal 0 wa%$ d[n  
by ! /rong curr5t1 & b = ! man's previ\s
 long exp]i5ce 9 swimm+ riv]s he w\ld   
nev] h rea*$ ! bank4 ,! pony also someh[
 /ruggl$ ?r\gh to ! side1 l&+           
half-dr[n$1 & ,old ,/abb$ ,arm receiv$ a
 few he>ty pats on ! back4 ,! load on ! 

m>e 0 fur!r soak$1 b mo/ ( our          
possessions _h be5 ru9$ long ago4 ,my   
c>tridges ,i _h slung ar\nd my neck1 &  
,i held ! photographic plates 9 my tee?1
 :ile ! left h& c>ri$ my gun1 s ^! 7    
pres]v$4 ,to my c>e on t occasion !     
read] is indebt$ = "s ( ! illu/rations 9
 ?is volume4 ,n&ey>a got ano!r wa%1 b he
 _h be5 wet be=e1 & nev] compla9$6  ,on 
! f>!r side ( ! riv] 0 a des]t$ h\se1 & 
we c\ld di/9ctly trace ! heavy footpr9ts
 ( a tapir lead+ up ! pa? & ?r\gh ! op5 
doorway4 ,we ent]$ ) caution4 ,0 ! bea/ 
9 !n8 ,no4 ,he _h gone out by a back    
way1 probably made by himself1 ?r\gh !  
wattl$ wall4 ,we c\ld see ! place 0     
frequ5t$ v (t5 by wild pigs1 :i* _h left
 hundr$s ( footpr9ts 9 ! ?ree-in* dep? (
 du/ on ! floor4 ,!re we lit a fire to  
aga9 dry our clo!s1 & prep>$ to pass !  
night1 expect+ a visit f ! hogs4 ,_h !y 
appe>$ :5 we 7 ready = !m1 ! visit w\ld 
n h be5 unwelcome4 ,food 0 h>d to       
procure1 & animals did n come v (t5 to  
be %ot4 ,_h !y f\nd u asleep1 h[ev]1 !  

wak+ w\ld h be5 t]rible inde$1 = !y w   
eat human fle% j z rav5\sly z roots4    
,aft] spread+ our saddle-clo?s on ! du/ 
& fil?1 ,old ,/abb$ ,arm & ,i 7 *att+   
ab\t ! ,ca+was & _! dirty habits1 :5    
,timoteo1 heav+ a sigh ( relief1 said3  
,?ank ,god1 we are clean at la/6 ,he 0  
satisfi$ ) ! pigp5 z he recall$ ! hog ( 
! ,sun-,wor%ipp]s4   ,at la/ ! village (
 ,pegwaomi 0 rea*$1 &1 oh1 we 7 n sorry1
 = ! havoc ( ! jigg]s 9 our feet 0 gett+
 t]rible6 ,! ke5-ey$ inhabitants caught 
sight ( u :ile we 7 /ill di/ant1 & :5 we
 re9$ up1 ,timoteo's ag$ "m trembl+ly   
said1 ,yoape 7,come "h7 to him1 & %e    
wept z %e embrac$ h] boy4 ,truly1 !re 0 
no sight s sweet to "m z t ( h] ragg$1  
travel-/a9$ son2 & ,timoteo1 ! /rong    
man1 wept4 ,! fatt$ calf 0 !n kill$ a   
few y>ds f ! door/ep1 by hav+ its ?roat 
cut4 ,(fal litt]$ up ! doorway1 & !     
*ildr5 9 _! glee danc$ 9 ! r$ blood4 ,! 
dogs' tails & ! wom5's tongues wagg$    
m]rily1 mak+ u feel t we 7 jo9$ on to ! 
_w aga94 ,i 0 surpris$ to f9d t we 7    

days out ( reckon+2 ,i _h be5 keep+     
,sunday on ,?ursday6  ,dur+ ?is /ay at  
,pegwaomi ,i ne>ly lo/ ,old ,/abb$ ,arm4
 ,! day aft] we return$ our ho/ess v    
s]i\sly ask$ me if he might m>ry h]     
daught]4 ,?9k+ he _h s5t h] to ask1 ,i  
cons5t$4 ,x 0 a surprise to le>n        
aft]w>ds t he knew no?+ at all ( !      
matt]4  ,al?\gh ,pegwaomi ga9$ no new   
inhabitant1 ,i secur$ :at prov$ to be "o
 ( ! true/ & mo/ fai?ful fri5ds ( my    
life--a little monkey4 ,8 "n 0 ,mr4     
,pan*o4 ,) him x 0 love at fir/ sight1 &
 f t "t onw>d1 ,i believe1 he _h only   
two ?+s 9 8 m9d--8 food & 8 ma/]4 ,he   
w\ld cry :5 ,i left him1 & hug & kiss me
 on my return4 ,pan*o rode ! pack-m>e   
into ! village ( ,concepcion1 & busi$   
himself on ! way cat*+ butt]flies & try+
 to grasp ! multi-color$ humm+-birds    
hov]+ ov] ! equally beautiful           
passion-fl[]s gr[+ 9 ! bu%es on ea* side
 ( ! pa?4  ,surely a /rang] sight 0 nev]
 se5 on ! /reets ( ,concepcion ?an t ( a
 tir$1 du/y pack-horse be>+ a live      

monkey1 a dead god1 & an equally dead   
devil on 8 back6 ,mrs4 ,sorr[s 0 ov]joy$
 to see me return1 & e>ne/ly told me t  
my fir/ duty 0 to hurry d[n to ! /ore & 
buy two color$ c&les to burn be=e h]    
sa9t1 :o _h br\ght me back1 ev5 ?\gh ,i 
0 a h]etic1 :i* fact %e greatly lam5t$4 
,we _h be5 giv5 up z lo/ mon?s be=e1 =  
^w came d[n t ,i _h be5 kill$ by        
,indians4 ,"h ,i 01 h[ev]1 safe & fairly
 well1 sav+ t ! ends ( two ( my toes _h 
rott$ (f ) jigg]s1 & fev] burn$ 9 my    
ve9s6 ,mrs4 ,dolores doctor$ my feet )  
tobacco a%es z ,i recl9$ 9 a hammock "u 
! lime trees surr\nd+ h] hut4 ,i did n  
buy ! c&les1 b %e did2 & :ile ,i sil5tly
 ?ank$ a ,high] ,p[]1 & ! ta-tas burn$  
to h] deity1 %e in=m$ me t my c\ntryman1
 ! prodigal1 _h be5 c>ri$ to ! pott]s'  
field4 ,n all prodigals rea* home aga92 
"s are buri$ by ! sw9e-tr\ghs4  ,= "s "t
 ,i 0 unable to put my feet to ! gr\nd2 
b ,pan*o1 ev] active1 ti$ 9 a fig tree1 
help$ himself to ripe fruit1 & took life
 m]rily4 ,pan*o & ,i 7 ev5tually able to

 bid good-bye to ,mrs4 ,sorr[s1 &1 ?\s&s
 ( miles d[n life's pa?way1 ?is little  
fri5d & ,i j\rney$ toge!r1 he ev] lov+ &
 true4 ,i took him across ! ocean1 away 
f 8 tropical home1 &--he di$4 ,i am n   
s5tim5tal--nay1 ,i h be5 accus$ (       
h>dness--b ,i make ?is ref]5ce to ,pan*o
 9 lov+ memory4 ,unlike "s fri5ds ( my  
life1 he 0 con/ant & true4 ,footnote3 ,f
 lett]s await+ me at ! po/-(fice1 ,i    
le>n$1 ) int5se sorr[ & regret1 t my    
/range patron _h gone ! way ( all fle%  
,! l& ,i _h be5 to explore1 along-) a   
beque/ ( #bej1jjj1 pass$ into ! h&s ( ! 
,bapti/ ,mission>y ,society1 to !       
,secret>y ( :i* ,society all my reports 
7 giv54     ,,*apt] ,,xi4  ,,*aco       
,,savages4   ,! ,gran ,*aco1 an imm5se  
region 9 ! int]ior ( ! cont95t1 said to 
be #b1ejj1jjj squ>e miles 9 ext5t1 is1  
)\t d\bt1 ! d>ke/ "p ( ,! ,d>ke/ ,l&4 ,f
 "t immemorial ?is has be5 giv5 up to ! 
,indians2 or1 r1 !y h prov$ s w>like t !
 :ite man has n d>$ to ent] ! va/ pla94 
,! ,*aco conta9s a population ( p]haps  

#c1jjj1jjj ( aborig9es4 ,^! are divid$  
into _m tribes1 & speak num]\s          
languages4 ,f ! milit>y outpo/s (       
,arg5t9a at ! s\?1 to ! ,=t ( ,olimpo1  
#dej miles nor?1 ! c\ntry is left       
entirely to ! savage4 ,! =m] are built  
to keep back ! ,tobas f v5tur+ s\?1 & ! 
latt] is a ,p>aguayan =t on ! ,brazilian
 fronti]4 ,"h ab\t "o hundr$ soldi]s are
 qu>t]$ & "s fifty wom5 bani%$1 = !     
,p>aguayan ,gov]nm5t s5ds its female    
convicts !re4 ,footnote3 ,! wom5 are n  
provid$ ) ev5 ! b>e/ necessities ( life4
 ,"h !y are l&$ &1 p]=ce1 fa/5 !mselves 
l lee*es on ! lic5ti\s soldi]y4 ,i speak
 f p]sonal k1 = ,i h visit$ ! hell (    
,p>aguay4 ,betwe5 ^! =ts & ,bolivia1 on 
! we/1 ,i h be5 privileg$ to visit eight
 diff]5t tribes ( ,indians1 all ( !m    
alike degrad$ & sunk5 9 ! extreme2      
savage & wild z man1 ?\gh orig9ally made
 9 ! image ( ,god1 c be4  ,! ,*aco is a 
great unkn[n l&4 ,! nor?1 describ$ by   
,mr4 ,m9*91 ,bolivian ,gov]nm5t         
,explor]1 z a b>r5 zone--an almo/       

un9t]rupt$ ext5t ( l[1 ?orny scrub1 )   
great sc>city ( wat]1 & ! c5tre & s\?1 z
 ,i h se5 9 explor+ j\rneys1 great pla9s
 cov]$ ) millions ( palm trees1 ?r\gh   
:i* ! a/oni%$ travell] c ride = weeks   
)\t see+ any limit4 ,9 ! dry season ! l&
 is bak$ by ! int5se heat ( ! tropical  
sun1 & crack$ into deep fissures4 ,9 !  
ra9y season x is an endless m>%--a      
v]itable dead man's l&4 ,dur+ a         
#bjj-mile ride1 #ahj lay ?r\gh wat] ) ! 
sun almo/ v]tical4 ,all ?is c\ntry 9 pa/
 ages mu/ h be5 ! b$ ( a great salt sea4
  ,z ,i h said1 ! ,*aco is peculi>ly    
,indian t]ritory1 into :i* ! :ite man   
/eps at 8 p]il4 ,i accept$ a commission1
 h[ev]1 to exam9e & report on c]ta9 p>ts
 ( x1 s ,i left ! civiliz$ haunts ( m5 &
 set foot on ! =bidd5 gr\nd4  ,my fir/  
introduction to ! savages 9 ,*aco       
t]ritory 0 at _! village (              
,teepmuck?la:yke?y 7,! ,place ,:]e !    
,c[s ,arriv$74 ,!y 7 busy dev\r+ a dead 
c[ & a newly-born calf1 & ,i saw _! nak$
 bodies ?r\gh su* d5se cl\ds ( mosquitos

 t 9 "o clap ( ! h&s ,i c\ld kill tw5ty 
or ?irty4 ,?is ,indian toldo consi/s (  
?ree l>ge wigwams1 9 :i* live ab\t      
eighty ( ! mo/ degrad$ aborig9es to be  
f\nd on e>?4 ,:5 !y le>n$ ,i 0 n "o ( ! 
,*ri/ians f across ! riv]1 & t ,i came  
well introduc$1 !y ask$3 ,did ,i come   
across ! big wat] 9 a dug-out8 ,0 x a   
day's j\rney8 ,w\ld ,i give !m "s ( !   
/uff t resembles ! eggs ( ! ant8 7_! "n 
= rice74  ,i 0 p]mitt$ to occupy a palm 
hut )\t a ro(1 b ,i slept "u a tig]'s   
sk91 & t kept (f dew & ra94 ,!y res]v$ !
 "r to come & g 9 x z !y pleas$4 ,!     
wom51 ) nak$ babies a/ride _! hips1 !   
usual way ( c>ry+ !m1 7 p>ticul>ly      
annoy+4 ,a little girl1 h[ev]1 p]haps t5
 ye>s old1 nam$ ,supupnik 7,sawdu/71    
made fri5ds ) me1 & t fri5d%ip la/$ dur+
 all my /ay ) !m4 ,h] face 0 always     
grotesquely pa9t$1 b %e 0 a sweet *ild4 
,^! ,indians are ( normal /ature1 & are 
always erect & /ately1 p]haps because   
all burd5s are borne by /raps on !      
=ehead4 ,! expression ( ! savage is     

peculi>1 = he pulls out all ! hair on 8 
face1 ev5 ! eyela%es & eyebr[s1 & seems 
to ?9k ! omission ( t act w\ld be a     
t]rible brea* ( cleanl9ess4 ,^! same    
individuals w1 h[ev]1 frequ5tly be se5 )
 _! :ole body s coat$ ) dirt t x c\ld   
easily be scrap$ (f ) a knife 9 cakes1 z
 ! h\sewife w\ld scrape a burnt loaf6 ,!
 fir/ use to :i* ! wom5 put ! little    
r\nd t9 look+-glasses1 :i* ,i us$ =     
b>t]1 0 to admire _! pretty 787 faces2 b
 ! m51 ) a sob] look1 w\ld se>* = !     
dete/$ hair on lip or *94 ,t ,i 0 s lo/ 
to dec5cy z to suff] a m\/a*e to cov] my
 lip 0 to !m a con/ant puzzle & wond]1 =
 9 e o!r respect ! univ]sal op9ion 0 t  
,i 0 a civiliz$ k9d ( ?+4 ,i write ?+   
advis$ly1 = ! :ite man is to !m an      
inf]ior creation--n a p]son4  ,9 place (
 a be>d or m\/a*e1 ! inhabitant ( !     
,*aco pref]s to pa9t 8 face1 & sometimes
 he makes q an arti/ic design4  ,^! wild
 inhabitants ( ,c5tral ,s\? ,am]ica     
g5]ally we> a sk9 ar\nd ! lo9s1 or a /r+
 ( o/ri* fea!rs4 ,"s tribes1 z1 =       

example1 ! ,*amacocos1 disp5se ) ei!r4  
,! height ( fa%ion is to we> /r+s (     
tig]s' tee?1 de]'s ho(s1 birds' bills1  
etc41 ar\nd ! neck4 ,/r+s ( fea!rs or   
wool are twi/$ ar\nd ankles & wri/s1    
:ile ! ?ickly matt$ hair is adorn$ )    
plumes1 /&+ upright4  ,! m5 ins]t r\nd  
pieces ( wood 9 ! lobe ( ! e>4 ,boys (  
t5d] age h a %>p ?orn pu%$ ?r\gh ! e>1  
:]e m civiliz$ nations we> e>r+s4 ,?is  
hole is gradually enl>g$ until manhood1 
:5 a r\nd piece1 two in*es 9 diamet] &  
"o & a half in*es ?ick1 c be worn1 n    
dep5d+ f ! e>1 b 9 ! gri/le ( x4 ,!     
c>tilage is ?us s di/5d$ t only a n>r[  
rim rema9s ar\nd ! ornam5t1 & ?is may   
(t5 be se5 brok5 out4 ,sometimes ?ree or
 f\r rattles f ! tail ( ! rattlesnake   
also hang f ! e> on to ! %\ld]4  ,^!    
tribes ( ! ,*aco 7 all vassals ( ! ,inca
 at ! adv5t ( ! ,spani>ds4 ,!y _h be5 by
 !m reclaim$ f savag]y1 & taught _m     
useful arts1 "o or two ( :i*1 su* z !   
mak+ ( blankets & /r+1 !y /ill reta94 ,!
 ,inca us$ ! e> ornam5ts ( solid gold1 b

 made 9 ! =m ( a :eel4 ,! ne>e/ approa* 
to ?is old cu/om is :5 ! wood5 e>-plug  
is pa9t$ ?us1 z are "s 9 ! au?or's      
possession4  ,i 0 =tunate 9 ga9+ ! favor
 ( ! tribe liv+ ne> ! riv]1 & because ( 
c]ta9 favors conf]r$ ^u !m1 0 adopt$    
into ! family4 ,my face 0 pa9t$1 my head
 adorn$ ) o/ri* plumes1 & ,i 0 giv5 ! "n
 ( ,wanampangap?l+ i?ma 7,big ,cactus   
,r$ ,m\?74 ,because ( ?is =mal          
initiation1 ,i 0 privileg$ to travel :]e
 ,i *ose1 b to ! native ,p>aguayan or   
,arg5t9e ! ,*aco is a =bidd5 l&4 ,!     
,indian describes himself z a man2      
monkeys are little m52 ,i 0 a ?+2 b !   
,p>aguayans are ,*ri/ians1 & t is ! l[e/
 degree ( all4 ,! prie/s !y see on ! o!r
 side ( ! riv] are ,yankilwana 7nei!r   
man nor woman72 & a ,yankilwana1 9 8    
di/9ctive g>b1 c\ld nev] tread ?is      
,indian soil4 ,s abhorr5t to !m is ! "n 
( ,*ri/ian1 t ! mission>ies h be5       
compell$ to use ano!r ^w to describe _! 
conv]ts1 & !y are call$ ,foll[]s (      
,jesus4 ,all ! memb]s ( "s l>ge         

exp$itions h be5 massacr$ j because !y 7
 ,*ri/ians4 ,surely ?is is conv9c+      
corroboration ( my rem>ks reg>d+ ! /ate 
( ,roman ,ca?olicism 9 ^? d>k l&s4  ,a  
few mis]able-look+1 dim9utive %eep are  
kept by "s tribes1 & ! blankets ref]r$  
to are made f ! wool1 :i* is torn (f !  
%eep ) a %>p %ell1 or1 if ne> ! coa/1 ) 
a knife4 ,! blankets are wov5 by h&     
across two /raight bran*es ( tree1 & !y 
are sometimes color$ 9 v>i\s %ades4 ,a  
bulb\s root !y "k ( dyes br[n1 ! co*9eal
 insect r$1 & ! b>k ( a tree yell[4 ,/r+
 is made f ! fibre ( ! c>aguata plant1 &
 snail %ells are us$ to extract ! fibre4
 ,?is "w is1 ( c\rse1 done by ! wom51 z 
is also ! mak+ ( ! clay pots !y use =   
cook+4 ,! m5 only hunt4  ,all sleep on !
 gr\nd1 m51 wom51 *ildr5 & dogs1        
promiscu\sly4 ,! wigwams are no?+ m ?an 
a few bran*es /uck 9 ! gr\nd & ti$ at ! 
top4 ,! sides are left op54 ,v (t5 ev5  
?is mo/ primitive ( dwell+s is disp5s$  
)1 & ! degrad$ be+s crawl "u ! %elt] ( !
 bu%es4 ,furniture ( any k9d !y are1 (  

c\rse1 wit-out1 & _! de/itution is only 
equall$ by ! ,african pigmy or !        
,au/ralian black4  ,! ,*aco is          
ess5tially a b>r5 l&1 & ! ,indians' "t  
seems almo/ fully tak5 up 9 procur+     
food4 ,! m51 ) b[s & arr[s1 hunt ! de]1 
o/ri*1 fox1 or wolf1 :ile ! wom5 =age = 
roots & wild fruit4  ,"o tribe 9 ! nor? 
( ! ,*aco are cannibals1 & !y           
occasionally make w> on _! neighbors j  
to obta9 food4  ,a good vegetable diet  
is ! cabbage1 :i* gr[s 9 ! he>t ( c]ta9 
palms1 & weighs ?ree or f\r p\nds4 ,to  
secure ?is ! tree has p]=ce to be cut   
d[n4 ,to ! ,indian )\t an axe ?is is no 
light task4 ,! palm1 z is well kn[n1    
diff]s f o!r trees by its hav+ ! seat ( 
life 9 ! head1 & n 9 ! roots2 s :5 !    
cabbage is tak5 out ! tree dies4        
,any?+1 ev]y?+1 is eat5 = food1 & a     
roa/$ s]p5t or boil$ fox is equally     
reli%$4 ,dur+ my /ay among !m ,i ceas$  
to ask ( :at ! mess 0 compos$2 ea* di% 0
 worse ?an ! =m]4 ,among ! fir/ di%es ,i
 _h 7 m&ioca root1 a black c>rion bird1 

goat's meat1 & fox's head4 ,! puma1     
ott]1 ant-be>1 de]1 armadillo1 & o/ri*  
are alike eat51 z is also ! jagu>1 a    
f]oci\s bea/ ( imm5se size4 ,i br\ght   
away f ^? regions "s beautiful sk9s (   
?is animal1 ! l>ge/ ( :i* measures ne>ly
 n9e feet f nose to tail4  ,9 ! sluggi%1
 almo/ salt1 /reams1 fi% are num]\s1 &  
^! are %ot by ! ,indian ) arr[s1 to :i* 
is atta*$ a /r+ ( gut4 ,lakes & riv]s   
are also fill$ ) hide\s-look+ alligators
 ( all sizes4 ,^! gr[ to ! l5g? ( twelve
 or fifte5 feet 9 ^! w>m wat]s1 & ! tail
 is consid]$ q a delicacy4 ,besides ^!  
v>i$ di%es1 !re is ! electric eel2 &1   
sunk 9 a y>d dep? ( mud1 is ! lollock1 (
 su* int]e/ to naturali/s ,! lollock is 
a fi% peculi> to ! ,*aco4 ,?\gh gr[+ to 
! l5g? ( ?ree & f\r feet1 x has only    
rudim5t>y eyes1 & is1 9 consequ5ce1 q   
bl9d2 x is also unable to swim4 ,!      
savage prods 9 ! mud ) a long not*$     
lance1 sometimes = h\rs1 until he /icks 
! appetiz+ fi%4  ,! /eamy wat]s are s   
cov]$ ) aquatic plants t 9 "s places ,i 

h be5 able to walk across a liv+ bridge4
 ,once1 :5 out hunt+1 ,i came ^u a      
beautiful =e/ glade1 cov]$ ) a c>pet (  
gre54 ,?9k+ x a likely place = de]1 ,i  
ent]$1 :5 lo1 ,i sank 9 a ftid lake (   
slime4 ,?r[+ my gun on to ! bank1 ,i _h 
q a difficulty to rega9 dry l&4  ,9 my  
j\rney+s "h & !re ,i employ$ "o or ano!r
 ( ! braves to accompany me4 ,all !y    
c\ld eat & "s little pres5t 0 ! pay4 ,no
 soon] 0 ! gift 9 _! h&1 h[ev]1 aft]    
supp]1 ?an !y w\ld put x back 9 m9e &   
say1 ,give me "s m food8 ,i 0 at fir/   
accompani$ by ,yantiwau 7,! ,wolf       
,rid]74 ,arm$ ) a b[ & arr[s1 he 0 a    
good hunt] = me1 & a fai?ful s]vant1 b 8
 cu/om ( spitt+ on my knife & spoon to  
clean !m ,i did n l4 ,:5 my supplies 7  
gett+ l[1 & ,i w5t to ! riv] = a wa%1 he
 w\ld say3 ,!re's no kiltani?liacack    
7soap7--only clupup 7s&74 ,yantiwau 0   
int]e/$ 9 pictures2 he w\ld gaze )      
wond]+ eyes at photos1 or views ( o!r   
l&s1 b he look$ at !m ! wrong side up1 z
 !y all inv>iably d4 ,:ile possess$ ( a 

pr(\nd respect = me 9 "s ways1 he ?\ght 
me v lack+ 9 common k4 ,:ile ,i 0 unable
 to procure game1 ?r\gh n see+ any1 he  
c\ld call ! bird to him 9 a ducky1      
ducky1 come & be kill$ k9d ( way2 & my  
tongue 0 p>*$ :5 he w\ld sc5t wat]4 ,?is
 0 sometimes v easy to smell1 h[ev]1 = x
 0 almo/ impossible to dr9k out ( a     
wat]hole )\t hold+ ! nose & /ra9+ !     
liquid ?r\gh my clos$ tee?4 ,*aco wat]  
at be/ is v bracki%1 & on dry+ (f !     
gr\nd a :ite coat ( salt is left4  ,my  
,indian's fir/ & la/ ?\ght 0 ( 8 /oma*4 
,:ile capable ( pass+ two or ?ree days  
)\t eat+1 & feel+ no pangs ( hung]1 yet1
 :5 food 0 to h&1 he gorg$ himself1 &   
c\ld put away an incr$ible am\nt4       
,truly1 8 make-up 0 a con/ant wond] to  
me4 ,rid+ ?r\gh ! hungry belt ,i w\ld be
 fami%+1 b to my "q3 ,are y hungry8 he  
w\ld answ]1 ,no4 ,aft] a toilsome       
j\rney1 & no supp] at ! end3 ,w\ld y l  
to eat8 ,no4 ,b let an o/ri* or a de]   
come 9 sight1 & he c\ld n live ano!r    
m9ute )\t food6 ,ano!r pro( to ,yantiwau

 ( my incapacity 0 ! fact t :5 my mat*es
 7 all us$ ,i c\ld n light ! fire4 ,he1 
by rubb+ a blunt-po9t$ h>d /ick 9 a     
groove ( s(t wood1 c\ld cause su* a     
friction t ! du/ w\ld spe$ily ignite1 & 
set fire to ! dry twigs :i* he 0 s clev]
 9 collect+4 ,al?\gh su* a simple       
process to ! ,indian1 ,i nev] met a :ite
 man :o c\ld use ! fire/icks ) effect4  
,sitt+ by ! camp-fire 9 ! /illness (    
ev5+1 my guide w\ld draw att5tion to a  
%oot+ />4 ,look6 ,t is a bad wit*       
doctor1 he w\ld say4 ,did y notice he   
w5t to ! we/8 ,well1 ! ,too?lis live    
!re4 ,he has gone = v5geance6  ,! wide  
palm pla9s are almo/ un9habit$2 ,i h    
j\rney$ eighty miles )\t sight+ human   
be+ or wigwam4 ,9 ! ra9y season ! trees 
/& out ( a sea-l expanse ( /eam+ wat]1 &
 "o may wade ?r\gh ?is = tw5ty miles )\t
 f9d+ a dry place = biv\ac4 ,ant hills1 
t5 & fifte5 feet high1 ) dome-%ap$ ro(s1
 dot ! wild wa/e l pigmy h\ses1 &       
sometimes !y are ! only dry l& f\nd to  
re/ on4 ,! horses fl\nd] ?r\gh ! mire1  

or s9k up to ! belly 9 slime1 :ile cl\ds
 ( flies make ! life ( man & bea/ a liv+
 dea?4 ,keys ru/ 9 ! pocket1 & boots    
mildew 9 a day4 ,at o!r seasons1 z ,i "k
 by pa9ful exp]i5ce1 ! h>d-bak$ gr\nd is
 crack$ up into fissures1 & n a drop (  
wat] is to be f\nd 9 a ?ree days'       
j\rney4 ,! mis]able savages ei!r sit 9  
utt] dejection on logs ( wood or tree   
roots1 view+ ! wat]y expanse1 or roam ! 
c\ntry 9 se>* ( y+m9 7wat]74  ,:]eas !  
,ca+was may be describ$ z in(f5sive     
,indians1 ! inhabitants ( ! ,*aco are   
savages1 ho/ile to ! :ite man1 :o only  
"h & !re1 ) _! p]mission1 has settl$ on 
! riv] bank4 ,g5]ally a p ( f9e physique
 & iron con/itution1 free f disease (   
any k9d1 !y are swept into et]nity 9 an 
incr$ibly %ort space ( "t if civiliz$   
diseases are introduc$4 ,ev5 ! mild]    
ones1 su* z measles1 decimate a :ole    
tribe2 & ,i h kn[n communities swept    
away z autumn leaves 9 a /rong breeze ) 
! grippe4 ,i 0 in=m$ t ! hospital       
au?orities at ,asuncion gave !m ! ca/-(f

 fev] clo?+ ( _! pati5ts dur+ an        
epidemic to sweep !m (f ! face ( ! e>?6 
,! ,indians h be5 ill-treat$ f ! beg9n+4
 ,d>w9 relates t1 9 _! eag]ness to      
ext]m9ate ! r$ m51 ! ,arg5t9e troops h  
pursu$ !m = ?ree days )\t food4 ,on !   
fronti] !y are kill$ 9 hundr$s2 by      
submitt+ to ! :ite man !y die 9 ?\s&s4  
,lat9 civilization is m t]rible to !m   
?an w>4 ,sad to /ate1 _! only hope is to
 fight1 & ?is ! savage affirms he w d = 
ev] & ev]4  ,francia1 ! ,dictator (     
,p>aguay1 ord]$ e ,indian f\nd--man1    
woman or *ild--to be put to dea?6       
,lopez1 a lat] rul]1 took sport 9 hunt+ 
,indians l de]4 ,we are told t on "o    
occasion he 0 s successful z to kill    
=ty-eight6 ,! *ildr5 he captur$ & sold  
into slav]y at fifte5 & tw5ty doll>s    
ea*4 ,! :ite settl] consid]s himself v  
brave if he kills ! savage ) a rifle    
sight$ at five hundr$ y>ds1 :ile well   
out ( range ( ! ,indians' arr[s1 & ,i h 
kn[n !m %ot j = fun6 ,! ,indians        
retaliate by cutt+ (f ! heels ( _! :ite 

captives1 or leav+ !m1 9 /atu naturae1  
b\nd ) ?ongs on an an?ill2 & a m t]rible
 dea? c\ld n be devis$ by ev5 !         
inquisitor1 ,torquemada1 ( ev]la/+      
execration4 ,! ,indian is h>d & cruel1  
indiff]5t to pa9 9 himself or o!rs4 ,a  
s]p5t may /+ a comrade1 & he takes no   
notice2 b let "o f9d food & !re is a    
g5]al scamp] to ! spot4 ,! ,*aco savage 
is b>b>\s 9 ! extreme4 ,! sla9 enemies  
are (t5 eat51 & ! bones burnt & scatt]$ 
ov] _! food4 ,! *ildr5 ( enemies are    
trad$ (f to o!r tribes = m food4  ,!    
,*aco ,indian is a born w>rior4 ,sad to 
say1 8 only hope is to fight aga9/ !    
,lat9 paleface4  ,mo/ ( u h at times be5
 able to detect a peculi> aroma 9 !     
negro4 ,! ke5-sc5t$ savage detects t    
some?+ 9 u1 & we smell to !m4 ,ev5 ,i1  
,big ,cactus ,r$ ,m\?1 0 n decl>$ free f
 a subtle odor1 al?\gh ,i wa%$ s (t5 t  
!y wond]$ my sk9 did n come (f4 ,!y nev]
 wa%1 & 9 damp wea!r ! dirt peels f !m 9
 cakes4 ,( c\rse !y don't smell6  ,:5 a 
man or woman is1 ?r\gh age1 no long]    

capable ( look+ aft] ! ne$s ( ! body1 a 
%all[ grave is dug1 ! ag$ "o d\bl$ up   
until ! knees are press$ into ! holl[   
*eeks1 & ! back is brok54 ,?is t]rible  
"w done1 ! undesir$ "o is dragg$ by "o  
leg to ! op5 tomb4 ,sometimes ! face &  
:ole body is s mangl$1 by be+ pull$     
?r\gh ?orns & ov] unev5 gr\nd1 t x is n 
recognizable1 & ! nose has at times be5 
actually torn (f4 ,:ile sometimes /ill  
alive1 ! body is cov]$ up ) "m e>?4     
,frequ5tly ! grave is s %all[ t ! matt$ 
hair may be se5 com+ out at ! top4 ,!   
burial is g5]ally made ne> a wood1 &1 if
 passible1 "u ! holy wood tree1 :i*1 9  
_! judgm5t1 has great influ5ce ) evil   
spirits4 ,wild bea/s1 attract$ by ! odor
 ( ! corpse1 soon dig up ! rema9s1 &    
be=e next day x is frequ5tly dev\r$4    
,an ord9>y burial s]vice may be ?us     
describ$3 ,a deep cut is fir/ made 9 !  
/oma* ( ! dep>t$ "o4 ,into ?is incision 
a /one1 "s bone a%1 & a bird's claw are 
introduc$4 ,! body is !n plac$ ov] !    
grave on two /icks1 a mutt]+ incantation

 is said by ! wit* doctor1 & ! /icks are
 r\ghly knock$ f "u ! body1 s z to p]mit
 x to fall 9 a sitt+ po/ure4 ,a b[ &    
arr[s1 & "s food & cook+ ut5sils1 are   
dropp$ into ! grave4 ,all %oot+ />s1    
accord+ to ! ,indian belief1 are fly+   
/ones2 h5ce ! cu/om ( plac+ a /one 9 !  
/oma* ( ! dead4 ,x is suppos$ to be able
 to m\nt heav5w>d1 &1 assum+ its true   
"*1 become ! av5g+ adv]s>y1 & de/roy !  
"o :o caus$ ! dea?--always a bad wit*   
doctor4 ,! bird's claw scrat*es out !   
enemy's he>t1 & ! a%es annihilate ! _s4 
,"o ( ! mission>ies 9 ! ,l5gua tribe    
/at$ t he assi/$ at ! burial ( a woman  
:]e ! corpse fell head =emo/ into !     
grave1 ! feet rema9+ up4 ,f\r times !   
attempt to drop h] 9 "r 0 made1 ) simil>
 results1 & f9ally ! husb& delib]ately  
broke 8 dead wife's neck1 & b5t ! head  
on to ! back2 !n he broke h] limbs      
across 8 knee1 & s ! gha/ly burial 0 at 
la/ complet$6 ,truly1 ! d>k places ( !  
e>? are full ( ! habitations ( cruelty4 
,let ! "o ^: idea is to leave ! pagan 9 

8 innoc5cy visit ^! savages1 &1 if he   
lives to tell x1 8 ideas w h und]gone a 
great *ange4 ,!y are lo/6 & millions h n
 yet he>d ( ! ,son ( ,man1 :o came to   
seek & to save t :i* 0 lo/4  ,at ! dea? 
( any memb]1 ! toldo 9 :i* he liv$ is   
burnt1 all 8 possessions are de/roy$1 & 
! p g into m\rn+4 ,! hair ( bo? sexes is
 cut %ort or pull$ out1 & ea* "o has !  
face black5$ ) a vegetable dye1 :i*1 f  
exp]i5ce1 ,i "k h>dly ev] we>s (f aga94 
,z ,i h said1 ev]y?+ ! man own$ 9 life  
is burnt & ! village is des]t$2 all move
 "r away to get out ( ! pres5ce ( !     
dea?-giv+ _s4 ,to me ! toldo w\ld n only
 seem ab&on$1 b ! p gone )\t leav+ a    
trace ( _! pa?2 b n s to ,wolf ,rid]1 my
 guide4 ,by ! position ( ! half-burnt   
wood ( ! fire1 he c\ld tell ! direction 
!y _h tak51 & ! numb] gone--al?\gh ea*  
/eps 9 ! o!r's footpr9ts--:e!r !y 7     
/opp+ to hunt on ! way1 & mu* m he w\ld 
nev] tell me4 ,"s ( ! mission>ies h sp5t
 t5 ye>s 9 ! ,*aco1 b _c get ! savage to
 tea* !m ?is lesson ( signs4  ,9 "s     

tribes ! ag$ ones are j left to die     
sitt+ "u a palm-leaf mat4 ,all ! memb]s 
( ! tribe move away & leave !m ?us4 ,_m 
are ! t]rible ?+s my eyes h witness$1 b 
surely ! mo/ pa!tic 0 ! sight ( an old  
woman sitt+ "u ! mat4 ,i 0 "o day rid+  
alone1 b _h ) me two horses1 :5 ,i      
caught sight ( ! palm-leaf erection & ! 
solit>y figure sitt+ "u x4 ,gett+ d[n f 
my horse1 ,i approa*$ ! woman & (f]$ to 
take h] to a place ( safety1 promis+ to 
fe$ h] & p]mit h] to live z long z %e   
*ose4 ,w\ld %e come ) me8 ,i begg$ &    
entreat$1 b ! poor woman w\ld n s mu* z 
lift h] eyes to m9e4 ,! law ( h] tribe  
_h said %e mu/ die1 & ! laws are to !m  
unalt]able4 ,mo/ reluctantly1 ,i left h]
 to be eat5 lat] on by ! wild bea/s4    
,t]rible z ?is cu/om is1 o!r tribes kill
 & eat _! ag$ p>5ts z a m>k ( respect4  
,ano!r tribe w n p]mit "o memb] to g    
into ! _s _w alone1 s !y hang ano!r "o1 
9 ord] t !re may be two to ent] toge!r4 
,:]eas ! ,ca+was are a religi\s p1 ev5  
attribut+ _! cu/om ( pi]c+ ! lip to     

div9e comm&m5t1 ! ,*aco aborig9es h no  
god & no religion4 ,mission>ies 9 !     
solit>y /ation ,i h ref]r$ to1 aft] t5  
ye>s' prob+1 h be5 unable to f9d any    
approa* to wor%ip 9 _! d>k5$ m9da4 ,!   
mis]able wret*es :o inhabit t va/       
wild]ness are s l[ 9 ! scale ( reason+  
be+s t "o might d\bt :e!r or n !y h     
human s\ls4 ,footnote3 ,wa%burn's       
,hi/ory ( ,p>aguay4 ,^! lo/ %eep h no ^w
 to express ,god1 & h no idols4 ,!      
pov]ty ( ! ,indian dialects ( ! ,*aco is
 sc>cely surpass$ by t ( ! dumb brutes4 
,^! wret*$ tribes h p]fect community (  
goods2 :at is secur$ by "o belongs      
equally to all4 ,a piece ( clo? is ei!r 
torn up & di/ribut$1 or worn 9 turns by 
ea* "o4 ,! %irt :i* ,i gave my guide1   
,yantiwau1 = mu* ardu\s toil1 0 worn by 
"o & ano!r alt]nately4 ,mu* z ! savage  
at fir/ desires to possess "s g>m5t1 x  
does n take long = him to tire ( x4 ,all
 agree ) ,m>k ,twa91 t ! human sk9 is ! 
mo/ com=table ( all co/umes1 &1 clo!d 9 
! sunlight1 ! human =m div9e is n       

unlovely4  ,sometimes ! ,indians ( !    
int]ior take sk9s1 etc41 to ! ,p>aguayan
 t[ns across ! riv]4 ,n kn[+ ! use (    
money1 _! little trad+ is done by b>t]4 
,_! k ( value is s crude t on "o        
occasion !y refus$ a two-doll> axe = an 
article1 b gladly accept$ a t5-c5t      
knife4 ,! ,*aco ,indian1 h[ev]1 is      
seldom se5 9 civilization4 ,8 home is 9 
! int]ior ( an unkn[n c\ntry1 :i* he    
w&]s ov] 9 wild fre$om4 ,:ile ! ,ca+was 
are homekeep+1 ^! savages are nomadic1 &
 c\ld n settle d[n4 ,! l& is ei!r burnt 
up or inundat$1 s !y d n plant1 b live  
only by ! *ase4 ,s bold & d>+ are !y t a
 man1 arm$ only ) a lance1 w attack a   
savage jagu>2 or1 div+ "u an alligator1 
he w /ab x ) a %>p5$ bone4 ,! same man w
 run 9 abject t]ror if he ?9ks he he>s  
spirits4  ,?\gh n religi\s1 ! savages   
are exce$+ly sup]/iti\s1 afraid ( gho/s 
& evil spirits1 & ! fe> ( ^! spectral   
visitants pursues !m ?r\gh life4 ,dur+ a
 /orm !y vigor\sly %ake _! blankets &   
mutt] incantations to keep away         

sup]natural visitors4  ,all diseases are
 caus$ by evil spirits1 or ! moon2 & a  
comet br+s ! measles4 ,! help ( ! wit*  
doctor has to be s\ght on all occasions1
 = 8 special "w is to drive away ! evil 
_s t has tak5 possession ( a sick "o4   
,?is he does by rattl+ a holl[ calaba%  
conta9+ /ones4 ,t important p]son w p]=m
 8 my/ic hocus pocus ov] ! sick or dy+1 
& *>m away ! spirits f a neighborhood4  
,i h kn[n an ,indian1 :5 9 great pa9    
?r\gh hav+ eat5 too mu*1 s5d = ! old    
fakir1 :o1 aft] exam9ation ( ! pati5t & 
great %[ ( le>n+1 decl>$ t ! suff]+ "o  
_h two tig]s 9 8 /oma*4 ,a v common     
rem$y is ! some:at sci5tific op]ation ( 
ble$+ a pati5t1 b ! mann] is c]ta9ly    
uncommon--! wit* doctor sucks out !     
blood4 ,"o ,i 0 acqua9t$ )1 among !     
,l5gua tribe1 pr(ess$ to suck ?ree cats 
out ( a man's /oma*4 ,8 pr(essional "n 0
 !reaft] ,fa!r ( ,kitt5s4 ,! doctor's   
position is n "o to be envi$1 h[ev]1 =  
if ?ree consecutive pati5ts die1 he mu/ 
foll[ !m d[n ! d>k trail6  ,^! m$ic9e-m5

 are exp]ts 9 poisons1 & _! enemies h a 
way ( dy+ sudd5ly4 ,x _c be d5i$ t !    
,indians h a v real k ( ! heal+ virtues 
( _m plants4 ,! writ] has m>vell$ at !  
cures he has se51 & 0 n sl[ to add "s ( 
_! me?ods to 8 m$ical k4 ,n a few :o h  
be5 heal$1 s9ce ! writ]'s return to     
civilization1 owe _! new life to ! k !re
 le>n$4  ,infanticide is practis$ 9 e   
tribe1 & 9 my ext5sive w&]+s among eight
 toldos1 ,i nev] met a family ) m ?an   
two *ildr54 ,! re/ are kill$6 ,a *ild is
 born1 & ! "m imm$iately knocks x on !  
head ) a club6 ,aft] cov]+ ! baby ) a   
lay] ( e>?1 ! woman goes ab\t z if no?+ 
_h occurr$4 ,"o *ief ( ! ,l5gua tribe1 t
 ,i met1 _h himself kill$ n9ete5 *ildr54
 ,an ironwood club is kept 9 ea* toldo =
 ?is gruesome "w4 ,frequ5tly a live *ild
 is buri$ ) a dead p>5t2 b ,i _h bett]  
leave mu* ( _! do+s 9 ! inkpot4  ,:5 a  
girl ent]s ! matrimonial m>ket1 at ab\t 
! age ( twelve or ?irte51 h] face is    
specially color$ ) a yell[ pa9t1 made f 
! fl[] ( ! date palm1 & ! aspirant to h]

 h& br+s a bundle ( firewood1 neatly ti$
 up1 :i* he places beside h] e>!n b$ at 
e>ly morn+4 ,z ! ris+ sun gilds ! ea/]n 
sky1 ! girl awakes out ( h] sleep1 rubs 
h] eyes1--& sees ! /icks4 ,well does %e 
"k ! mean+ ( x1 & a glad light fla%es 9 
h] d>k eyes z %e cries out1 ,:o br\ght !
 /icks8 ,all m51 wom5 & *ildr51 take up 
! cry1 & soon ! :ole encampm5t res\nds  
)1 ,:o br\ght ! /icks8 ,! m$ic9e-man1 :o
 sleeps ap>t f ! common h]d "u an       
inc5se-tree1 he>s ! d91 &1 quickly donn+
 8 head-dress1 hurries d[n to ! sc5e4 ,)
 an au?oritative voice1 :i* ev5 ! *ief  
himself does n use1 he dem&s1 ,:o br\ght
 ! /icks8 until a "y brave /eps =w>d 9  
front ( him & replies1 ,fa!r ( ,kitt5s1 
,i br\ght ! /icks4 ,?is "y man is !n    
comm&$ to /& ap>t1 ! girl is hunt$ out1 
& toge!r !y wait :ile ! wit*-doctor     
,x-rays !m ?r\gh & ?r\gh4 ,aft] ?is     
close scrut9y1 !y are ask$3 ,d y want   
?is man8 ,d y want ?is girl8 ,to :i* !y 
reply1 ,yes1 ,fa!r ( ,kitt5s1 ,i d4 ,!n1
 ) great %[ ( p[]1 ! m$ic9e-man says1   

,g6 & (f ! newly-m>ri$ pair />t1 to live
 toge!r until dea? 79 ! =m ( burial7    
does !m "p4  ,x may be a great surprise 
to ! read] to le>n t ^! savages are     
exce$+ly moral4 ,infidelity betwe5 man &
 wife is puni%$ ) dea?1 b 9 all my      
travels ,i only he>d ( "o su* case4 ,a  
man m>ries only "o wife1 & al?\gh any   
expression ( love betwe5 !m is nev] se51
 !y yet seem to ?9k ( "o ano!r 9 a t5d] 
way1 & x is especially noticeable t !   
p>5ts are k9d to _! *ildr54  ,"o ev5+ ,i
 rode into an encampm5t ( savages :o 7  
celebrat+ a fea/4 ,ab\t fifty           
specially-deck$-out ,indians 7 /&+ 9 a  
circle1 & "o ( ! numb] _h a l>ge & v    
noisy rattle1 ) :i* he kept "t to ! *ant
 ( ,h h h h h6     6    6 a a a a a6 ,! 
lurid lights ( ! fires burn+ all ar\nd  
lit up ?is truly savage sc5e4 ,!        
wit*-doctor1 ! old fakir nam$ ,fa!r (   
,kitt5s1 came to me & look$ me ?r\gh &  
?r\gh ) 8 pi]c+ eyes4 ,i 0 giv5 !       
rattle1 &1 al?\gh v tir$1 _h to keep up 
a con/ant d91 :ile my wild companions   

b5t _! bodies 9 /range contortions4 ,9 !
 c5tre ( ! r+ 0 a woman ) a light$ pipe 
9 h] h&4 ,%e pass$ ?is f "o to ano!r &  
pu%$ x into ! m\? ( ea* "o1 :o _h a     
draw4 ,my turn came1 & lo6 ! pipe 0 ?ru/
 betwe5 my tee?1 & ! d9 w5t on3 ,h h6  6
  6 a a6 ,?is fea/ la/$ ?ree nights &   
two days1 b ! music 0 n v>i$1 & nei!r   
man nor woman seem$ to sleep or re/4    
,food 0 cook+ at ! diff]5t fires1 att5d$
 by ! wom51 b my %>e 0 only a roa/$     
fox's head6 ,! animal 0 laid on ! wood1 
) sk91 head & legs /ill atta*$1 & ! :ole
 0 burnt black4 ,i 0 v hungry1 & ate my 
portion ?ankfully4 ,*ri/oph] ,nor? said3
 ,!re's a deal ( f9e confus$ fe$+ ab\t a
 %eep's head1 & s ,i f\nd ) ! fox's4    
,truly1 z ! ,indian says1 hung] is a v  
big man4  ,at ^! fea/s a drum1 made by  
/ret*+ a s]p5t's sk9 ov] "o ( _! clay   
pots1 is l\dly beat51 & ! ?igh-bone ( an
 o/ri*1 ) key-holes burn$ 91 is a common
 musical in/rum5t4 ,f ! alg>roba bean an
 intoxicat+ dr9k is made1 call$ ang-m91 
& !n yells1 helli% s\nds & murd]\s bl[s 

inspire t]ror 9 ! paleface gue/4 ,x is  
impossible to conceive any?+ m wild &   
savage ?an ! sc5e ( _! biv\ac4 ,"s dr9k 
till !y are intoxicat$1 o!rs swall[ !   
/eam+ blood ( slaught]$ animals = _!    
supp]1 & !n1 sick f drunk5ness1 !y ca/ x
 up aga91 & are besme>$ ) gore & fil?4  
,aft] ! fea/ 0 ov] ,i held a s]vice1 &  
told h[ s9 0 inject$ into u by ! evil   
_s1 b t all are invit$ to ! heav5ly     
fea/4 ,my address 0 li/5$ to 9 p]fect   
sil5ce1 & ! nodd+ heads %[$ t "s1 at    
lea/1 und]/ood x4 ,:5 ,i f9i%$ speak+1 a
 poor woman1 ?9k+ %e mu/ (f] some?+1    
gave me h] baby--a nak$ little creature 
t _h nev] be5 wa%$ 9 its life4 ,i took x
 up & kiss$ x1 & ! poor woman smil$4    
,yes1 a savage woman c smile4  ,z       
already /at$1 _m diff]5t tribes (       
,indians dwell 9 ! ,*aco1 & ea* h _!    
diff]5t cu/oms4 ,9 ! ,suh9 tribe ! rite 
( burial may be ?us describ$4 ,! digg] (
 ! grave & ! p]=m] ( ! c]emony 0 ! *ief1
 :o is also a wit*-doctor1 & ,i 0 told t
 he 0 ab\t to de/roy ! wit*-doctor :o _h

 caus$ ! man's dea?4 ,a fire 0 lit1 &   
:il/ ! digg+ 0 9 progress a /one & two  
pieces ( iron 7 be+ heat$4 ,two bones ( 
a horse1 a l>ge bird's ne/ built (      
/icks1 & v>i\s twigs 7 collect$4 ,! sk9 
( a jagu>'s head1 a too?1 & ! pads ( !  
same animal 7 laid out4 ,a piece ( wax &
 a /one 7 also heat$2 & 9 a heap lay a  
hide1 "s sk9s = b$d+1 & a quantity (    
%eep's wool4 ,! grave be+ f9i%$1 !      
c]emony began by a wood5 arr[ be+ not*$ 
9 ! middle & wax$1 !n plung$ into ! "r  
brea/ ( ! corpse1 :5 x 0 snapp$ 9 two at
 ! not*1 & ! rema9+ half 0 flung into ! 
air1 accompani$ ) a v5geful cry1 9 !    
direction ( ! ,too?li tribe1 "o ( ^:    
doctors1 x 0 suppos$1 _h caus$ ! man's  
dea?4 ,%ort po9t$ /icks1 app>5tly to    
repres5t arr[s1 7 also daub$ ) wax1 two 
be+ plung$ into ! ?roat & "o into ! left
 brea/1 ! cry aga9 accompany+ ea*       
ins]tion4 ,"o ( ! jagu>'s pads 0 next   
tak51 & ! head ( ! corpse torn by !     
claws1 ! gr[l ( ! animal be+ imitat$    
dur+ ! process4 ,an incision 0 next made

 9 ! *eek1 & ! too? ins]t$2 !n ! head & 
face 7 daub$ ) ! heat$ wax4 ,! use ( !  
wax is evid5tly to signify ! desire t   
bo? arr[s & animal may /ick to ! man if 
he be attack$ by ei!r4 ,! arr[s 7       
plung$1 "o into ! "r brea/ d[nw>ds1 &   
ano!r bel[ ! ribs1 on ! same side1 b 9  
an upw>d direction1 a ?ird be+ driv5    
into ! "r ?igh4 ,!y also spoke ab\t     
break+ "o ( ! arms1 b did n d s4 ,an    
incision be+ made 9 ! abdom51 ! heat$   
/one 0 !n plac$ )9 ! body4 ,!y place mo/
 reliance ^u ! "w ( ! /one4 ,! c]emony  
is kn[n by ! "n ( ',mtaimng' /one1 & all
 ! o!r ?+s are said to assi/ x4         
,meteorites1 :5 se5 to pass along ! sky1
 are reg>d$ ) awe2 !y are believ$ to be 
^! /ones 9 passage4 ,! body 0 plac$ 9 ! 
grave ) ! head to ! we/1 ! jagu>'s head 
& pads be+ fir/ plac$ "u x4 ,a bun* (   
grass1 ti$ toge!r1 0 plac$ ^u ! body2 !n
 ! bird's ne/ 0 burn$ ^u x4 ,! bones 7  
next ?r[n 91 & ov] all ! v>i\s articles 
be=e m5tion$ 7 plac$4 ,^! 7 to accompany
 ! s\l 9 its passage to ! we/4 ,9 ?is   

act ! idea ( a future /ate is m di/9ctly
 se5 ?an ev] x has be5 se5 among/ !     
,l5guas1 :o burn all a man's possessions
 at 8 dea?4 ,! c]emony f9i%$1 ! grave 0 
cov]$ 91 logs & twigs be+ c>elessly ?r[n
 on ! top1 app>5tly simply to indicate !
 exi/5ce ( a grave4 ,! ?+ :i* /ruck me  
mo/ 0 ! int5se _s ( v5geance %[n4       
,not)/&+ su* t]rible savag]y1 h[ev]1 !  
,indian has ideas ( "r & wrong t put    
,*ri/ian civilization to %ame4 ,! p are 
p]fectly hone/ & tru?ful4 ,i believe !y 
_c lie1 & /eal+ is entirely unkn[n among
 !m4  ,_m are ! exp]i5ces ,i h _h 9 !   
,*aco4 ,"s ( !m haunt me /ill l gho/ly  
%ad[s4 ,! ev5+ camp-fire1 ! gl>e (  :i* 
lit up & made m hide\s /ill my savage   
foll[]s1 gorg+ !mselves until cov]$ )   
fil? & gore4 ,! times :51 f %e] hung]1  
,i h1 l !m1 torn up bird or bea/ & eat5 
x raw4 ,! draughts ( wat] f ! ,indian   
hole conta9+ ! putrefy+ rema9s ( "s dead
 animal2 my %irt dropp+ (f 9 rags & no  
wa% = ?ree weeks4 ,! j\rneys ?r\gh miles
 ( mal>ial swamps & pa?less wild]ness4  

,! revolt+ food1 & ! want ( food4 ,ah6 !
 memory is a bad dream f :i* ,i mu/     
awake4  ,! o!r side1 y say8 ,yes1 !re is
 ano!r4 ,a cl\dless blue sky ov]head4 ,!
 gorge\s air-fl[]s1 delicate & fragrant4
 ,trees cov]$ ) a drap]y ( or*idaceae4  
,! lovelie/ ( fl[]s & %rubs4 ,birds (   
ra9b[ beauty1 pa9t$ by ! h& ( ,god1 z   
only ,he c4 ,flam+oes1 p>rots1          
humm+-birds1 butt]flies ( e size & hue4 
,arboresc5t f]ns2 cacti1 ?irty feet     
high1 l huge c&elabra4 ,creep+ plants   
gr[+ a hundr$ feet1 & !n pass+ f ! top (
 "o ev]-v]nal tree to ano!r1 =m+ a      
canopy = "o f ! sun's rays4 ,*att]+     
monkeys4 ,de]1 ) m beautiful eyes ?an   
ev] woman _h s9ce ,eve fell4 ,! balmy   
air waft+ inc5se f ! burn+ bu%2 & la/1 b
 oh1 n lea/1 ! joy 9 see+ ! degrad$     
aborig9e le>n+ to love ! ,light ( ! ,_w6
 ,yes1 !re are delights2 b life is real1
 life is e>ne/1 & a meal ( alg>roba     
beans 7! husks ( ! prodigal son ( ,luke 
,,xv47 is n any m tempt+ if eat5 "u !   
%ade ( a wav+ palm ( surpass+ beauty4   

,! mission /ation previ\sly ref]r$ to   
lies "o hundr$ miles 9 f ! riv] bank1   
?ree hundr$ miles nor? ( ,asuncion1     
among ! ,l5gua ,indians4 ,z f> z ,i am  
aw>e1 no ,p>aguayan has ev] visit$ !re4 
,! mission>ies wi% _! influ5ce to be !  
only "o 9 tra9+ ! ,indian m9d4 ,!       
village be>s ! /range "n (              
,waik?latemialwa 7,! ,place ,:]e !      
,toads ,arriv$74 ,at ! invitation ( !   
mission>ies1 ,i 0 privileg$ to g !re &  
see _! "w4 ,a trail leads 9 f ! riv]    
bank1 b x is s bad t bullock c>ts tak+ 9
 provisions occupy t5 & twelve days on !
 j\rney4 ,tamaswa 7,! ,locu/ ,eat]71 my 
guide1 l$ me all dur+ ! fir/ day out    
?r\gh a palm =e/1 & at night we slept on
 ! h>d gr\nd4 ,! ,indian 0 a conv]t ( ! 
mission1 & al?\gh pa9t$1 fea!r$ & almo/ 
nak$1 seem$ really an exempl>y ,*ri/ian4
 ,! mission>ies labor$ = elev5 ye>s )\t 
ga9+ a s+le conv]t1 b ,tamaswa is n !   
only foll[] ( ,jesus n[4 ,dur+ ! day we 
%ot a de]1 & t ev5+1 be+ v hungry1 ,i   
ate p]haps two p\nds ( meat4 ,tamaswa   

f9i%$ ! re/6 ,true1 x 0 only a small    
de]1 b z ,i wi% to reta9 my "* =        
v]acity1 ,i d>e n say h[ mu* x weigh$4  
,?is meal conclud$1 we knelt on ! gr\nd4
 ,i read out ( ! old ,book3 ,i g to     
prep>e a place = y1 & ,locu/ ,eat] (f]$ 
a simple pray] = protection1 help &     
safety to ! ,god :o und]/&s all         
languages4  ,my blanket 0 wet ?r\gh &   
?r\gh ) ! gre5 slime ?r\gh :i* we _h    
wad$ & spla%$ = h\rs1 b we curl$        
ourselves up "u a be] b>rel tree & tri$ 
to sleep4 ,! h[l+ jagu>s & o!r bea/s (  
prey 9 ! jungle made ?is almo/          
impossible4 ,sev]al times ,i 0 awak5$ by
 my guide ris+1 &1 by ! light ( a palm  
tor*1 se>*+ = wood to repl5i% ! dy+     
fire1 9 ! smoke ( :i* we slept1 z a help
 aga9/ ! millions ( mosquitos buzz+     
ar\nd4 ,t[>ds morn+ a l>ge bea/ ( "s k9d
 leap$ "r ov] me1 & ,i rose to rek9dle !
 fire1 :i* my guide _h suff]$ to die    
out1 & !n ,i wat*$ until day dawn$4 ,z  
all ! de] 0 consum$1 we />t$ (f )\t     
breakfa/1 b 7 =tunate lat] on 9 be+ able

 to %oot two wild turkeys4  ,t day we   
rode on ?r\gh ! endless =e/ ( palms1 &  
wad$ ?r\gh a quagmire at lea/ eight     
miles 9 ext5t1 :]e ! gre5 slime rea*$ up
 to ! saddle-flaps4 ,on t day we came to
 a sluggi% /ream1 be>+ ! "n (           
,aptikpangmak?la+wa9kyapaimpangkya 7,!  
,place ,:]e ! ,pots ,7 ,/ruck ,:5 ,!y ,7
 ,ab\t to ,fea/74 ,!re a punt 0 moor$1  
into :i* we plac$ our saddles1 etc41 &  
paddl$ across1 :ile ! horses swam !     
almo/ /agnant wat]4 ,saddl+ up on ! o!r 
side1 we _h a j\rney ( ?irty miles to   
make be=e arriv+ at a wat]hole1 :]e we  
camp$ = ! second night4 ,i don't "k :at 
real nect> is1 b t wat] 0 nect> to me1  
al?\gh ! horses sniff$ & at fir/ refus$ 
to dr9k x4  ,at sunset on ! ?ird day we 
em]g$ f ! palm =e/ & endless m>%es1 & by
 ! ev5+ ( ! f\r? day ! *ur*1 built (    
palm logs1 loom$ up on ! horizon4 ,_m ( 
! ,indians came out to meet u1 & my     
arrival 0 ! talk ( ! village4 ,! p seem$
 happy1 & ! mission>ies made me at home 
9 _! r\ghly-built log %anties4 ,next    

morn+ ,i f\nd a gift _h be5 br\ght me by
 ! ,indians4 ,x 0 a beautiful fea!r     
headdress1 b x _h j be5 left on ! /ep1 !
 usual way !y h ( mak+ pres5ts4 ,!      
,indian expects no ?anks1 & he gives    
none4 ,! wom5 receiv$ any pres5t ,i h&$ 
!m c\rte\sly b sil5tly4 ,! m5 w\ld      
accept a look+-glass f me & imm$iately  
comm5ce to se>* _! face = any trace (   
dirty hairs1 probably br\ght to _! m9d  
by ! sight ( m9e1 b n ev5 a grunt (     
satisfaction w\ld be giv54 ,no ,*aco    
language has a ^w = ?anks4              
,illu/ration3 ,,tamaswa 7,,! ,,locu/    
,,eat]7 ,,procur+ ,,food4 ,?is "y man   
c\ld put ! po9t ( 8 arr[ into a de]'s   
eye a hundr$ y>ds di/ant  ,illu/ration3 
,,fa%ions ,,( ,,! ,,*aco4   ,!re is1    
among ! ,l5guas1 an old tradition to !  
effect t = g5]ations !y h be5 expect+ ! 
arrival ( "s /rang]s :o w\ld live among 
!m & tea* !m ab\t ! _s-_w4 ,^!          
long-look$-= tea*]s 7 call$ ,! ,imlah4  
,! tradition says t :5 ! ,imlah arrive1 
all ! ,indians mu/ obey _! tea*+1 & take

 c>e t ! said ,imlah d n aga9 leave _!  
c\ntry1 = if s !y1 ! ,indians1 w\ld     
disappe> f ! l&4 ,:5 ,mr4 ,grubb & 8    
help]s fir/ l&$1 !y 7 imm$iately ask$1  
,are y ! ,imlah8 & to ?is "q !y1 (      
c\rse1 answ]$ yes4 ,0 x n because ( ?is 
tradition t ! ,indian :o lat] %ot ,mr4  
,grubb ) a poison$ arr[ 0 himself put to
 dea? by ! tribe8  ,ab\t tw5ty boys     
att5d ! s*ool e/abli%$ at               
,waik?latemialwa1 & /range names "s ( !m
 be>2 let ,haikuk 7,little ,dead ,"o7   
s]ve z an example4 ,x is truly a *e]+   
sight to see ?is sign ( a bright] day4  
,:5 ^! boys return to _! di/ant toldos  
to tell ! news to _! d>k-m9d$ p>5ts1 !  
mo/ wond]ful ( all to relate is ,liklamo
 i?nik ata abwa?wuk en?lit ,god2        
h+yahamok hikata apkyapasa apkyitka     
abwan?labanko4 ,aptakmilkis*ik sat ankuk
 appaiwa +yitsipe sata net9 ?lamok?loho 
abyiam4 ,footnote3 ,john #c3af  ,well   
might ! wond]+ "m ( ,d>k ,cl\d call h]  
next-born ,samai 7,! ,dawn ( ,day74  ,! 
,indian c\nts by 8 h&s & feet4 ,five    

w\ld be "o h&1 two h&s t51 two h&s & a  
foot fifte51 & a specially clev] savage 
c\ld ev5 c\nt my two h&s & my two feet4 
,n[ ,mr4 ,hunt is *ang+ t3 five is      
?almemik1 t5 sohok-emek1 fifte5         
sohok?lama-em9ik1 & tw5ty sohok-emankuk4
  ,:5 a boy 9 s*ool desires to say      
eighte51 he mu/ fir/ ( all take a good  
deep brea?1 =                           
sohok-emek-wak?la-mok-em9ick-antan?lama 
is no %ort ^w4 ,?is lit]ally means3     
f9i%$ my h&s--pass to my o!r foot ?ree4 
,at ! s*ool ,i saw ! sk9 ( a wat]-snake 
tw5ty-six feet n9e in*es long1 b a book 
( pictures ,i _h int]e/$ ! boys f> m4   
,! mission work]s h ea* a "n giv5 to !m 
by ! ,indians1 & "s ( !m are m ?an      
/range4 ,apkilwankakme 7,! ,man ,:o     
,=got ,8 ,face7 us$ to be call$ ,nason  
:5 he mov$ 9 high ,engli% circles2 n[ he
 is ragg$ & torn-look+2 b ! old ,book my
 "m us$ to read says3 ,he t lose? 8 life
 = ,my sake %all f9d x4 ,"s ( u h yet to
 le>n t if we w\ld rememb] ,8 face x is 
necess>y = u to =get our own4 ,if !     

unbeliev] 9 mission "w 7 to g to        
,waik-?latemialwa1 he w\ld come away a  
conv]t$ man4 ,! =m] wit*-doctor1 :o =   
long made havoc1 b has s9ce be5 born    
aga91 w\ld tell him t dur+ a rec5t fam9e
 he talk$ to ! ,unse5 ,_s1 & said3 ,give
 u food1 ,god6 & t1 :5 only away a v    
%ort :ile1 8 arr[s kill$ ?ree o/ri*es & 
a de]4 ,he w\ld see ,mrs4 ,mopil9kilana 
walk+ ab\t1 clo!d & 9 h] "r m9d4 ,:o is 
%e8 ,! murd]ess ( h] f\r *ildr5--! woman
 :o c\ld see ! skull ( h] own boy kick+ 
ab\t ! toldo = days1 & wat* x f9ally    
crack$ up & eat5 by ! dogs4 ,c su* z %e 
be *ang$8 ,! ,scripture says3 ,e "o t   
believe?4  ,! ,l5gua language conta9s no
 ^w = ,god1 wor%ip1 praise1 sacrifice1  
s91 hol9ess1 rew>d1 puni%m5t or duty1 b 
_! mean+s are n[ be+ made cle>4  ,! *ur*
 at ,waik?latemialwa has no color$ glass
 w9d[s--old canvas bags take _! place4  
,! rev]5t wor%ipp]s assemble morn+ &    
ev5+1 9 all ! pride ( _! pa9t & fea!rs1 
b !re is no hide\s idol inside2 nay6 !y 
wor%ip ! invisible ,"o1 :om !y c see ev5

 ) closely %ut eyes4 ,to wat* ! m5 &    
wom51 ) erect be>+1 & ea* walk+ 9 !     
o!r's foot/eps1 ent] ! *ur*1 is a sight 
well wor? ! see+4 ,!y b[ !mselves1 n    
be=e "s feti%1 z "o might suppose1 b to 
! ,"o :om1 hav+ n se51 "s ( !m are le>n+
 to love4  ,"o ( ! mission>ies translat$
 my simple address to ! dusky           
congregation1 :o li/5$ ) wond]+ awe to !
 ev]-new /ory ( ,jesus4 ,z ! ,l5gua     
language conta9s no ^w = ,god1 !        
,indians h adopt$ our ,engli% ^w1 & bo? 
t "n & ,jesus came out 9 /rik+          
di/9ctness dur+ ! s]vice1 & 9 ! f]v5t   
pray] ( ! old ex-wit*-doctor :i* foll[$4
 ,) ! famili> hymn1 ,!re is a gre5 hill 
f> away1 ! meet+ conclud$4 ,! wom5 )    
n]v\s air sil5tly retir$1 b ! m5 salut$ 
me1 & "s ev5 w5t s f> z to %ake h&s--) !
 left h&4 ,w\ld t simil> /ations 7      
e/abli%$ all ov] ?is neglect$ l&6 ,:ile 
*ur*es & mission build+s cr[d ea* o!r 9 
! home l&s1 ! ,*aco1 ) an e/imat$       
population ( ?ree millions1 mu/ be      
cont5t ) ?is "o ray ( light 9 ! d5se    

night4  ,on t f>-(f gre5 hill we %all   
meet "s ev5 f ! ,l5gua tribe4 ,*ri/     
said3 ,i am ! door2 by ,me if any man   
ent] 91 he %all be sav$4 ,b oh1 ,pa9t$  
,face1 y spoke tru?2 ! :ite ?+ is       
selfi%1 & keeps ?is wondr\s k to        
himself4     ,,"p ,,iv4  ,,brazil       
,illu/ration   ,!re c be no m fasc9at+  
field ( labor ?an ,brazil1 not)/&+ !    
difficulty ( ! soil & ! imm5se tracts ( 
c\ntry :i* h to be trav]s$4 ,x cov]s    
half a cont95t1 & is ?ree times ! size (
 ,briti% ,india4 ,f> away 9 ! int]ior   
!re exi/ num]\s ,indian tribes )1 z yet1
 no writt5 language1 & consequ5tly no   
,bible4 ,?ru/ back by ! :ite man f _!   
orig9al homes1 ^! *ildr5 ( ! =e/ & !    
riv] are1 p]haps1 ! mo/ ne$y ( ! tribes 
( ! e>?4 ,= all t ^! millions "k1 !     
,gospel is non-exi/5t & ,jesus ,*ri/ has
 nev] visit$ & r$eem$ ! _w4 ,footnote3  
,! ,neglect$ ,cont95t   ,,brazil  ,!    
,republic ( ,brazil has an area (       
#c1cej1jjj squ>e miles4 ,f nor? to s\? !
 c\ntry measures #b1fjj miles1 & f ea/  

to we/ #b1ejj miles4 ,:ile ! ,republic (
 ,bolivia has no sea coa/1 ,brazil has  
#c1gjj miles wa%$ by ocean waves4 ,!    
population ( ?is great empire is        
tw5ty-two millions4 ,out ( ?is p]haps   
tw5ty millions speak ! ,portuguese      
language4  ,if ,brazil 0 populat$ 9 !   
same proportion z ,belgium is p] squ>e  
mile1 ,brazil w\ld h a population (     
#a1ici1ega1fii4 ,t is to say1 ,brazil1 a
 s+le c\ntry 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 c\ld hold &
 support ! entire population ( ! _w1 &  
hundr$s ( millions m1 ! e/imate ( !     
e>?'s population at ! beg9n+ ( ! tw5tie?
 c5tury be+ #a1fjj1jjj1jjj4 ,footnote3  
,bi%op ,neely's ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,besides 
! millions ( mules1 horses & o!r        
animals1 !re are1 9 ! republic1         
tw5ty-five millions ( cattle4  ,brazil  
is ri* 9 hav+ #ej1jjj miles ( navigable 
wat]ways4 ,?ree ( ! l>ge/ riv]s ( ! _w  
fl[ ?r\gh its t]ritory4 ,! ,or9oco      
atta9s a wid? ( f\r miles1 & is         
navigable = #a1djj miles4 ,! ,amazon    
alone dra9s a bas9 ( #b1ejj1jjj squ>e   

miles4  ,out ( ?is mighty /ream !re fl[s
 e day ?ree times ! volume ( wat] t fl[s
 f ! ,mississippi4 ,_m a sea-capta9 has 
?\ght himself 9 ! ocean :ile rid+ its   
/ormy bosom4 ,t mo/ maje/ic ( all riv]s1
 ) its e/u>y #ahj miles wide1 is ! great
 highway ( ,brazil4 ,/eamboats frequ5tly
 leave ! sea & sail up its w9d+ *annels 
into ! f> int]ior ( ,ecuador--a di/ance 
( ne>ly #d1jjj miles4 ,all ! _w kn[s t  
bo? ,briti% & ,am]ican m5-(-w> h visit$ 
! city ( ,iquitos 9 ,p]u1 #b1djj miles  
up ! ,amazon ,riv]4 ,! sailor on tak+   
s\nd+s has f\nd a dep? ( #agj feet (    
wat] at #b1jjj miles f ! m\?4 ,/ret*es (
 wat] & imp5etrable =e/ z f> z ! eye c  
rea* are all ! travell] sees4  ,pr(4    
,orton says3 ,! valley ( ! ,amazon is   
probably ! mo/ sp>sely populat$ region  
on ! globe1 & yet ,agassiz pr$ict$ t !  
future c5tre ( civilization ( ! _w w be 
9 ! ,amazon ,valley4 ,i d\bt if !re are 
n[ #ejj acres ( till$ l& 9 ! millions ( 
squ>e miles ! mighty riv] dra9s4 ,:]e   
cultivat$1 c(fee1 tobacco1 rubb]1 sug>1 

cocoa1 rice1 beans1 etc41 freely gr[1 & 
! f>m] gets f #ejj to #hjj-;fold = e    
bu%el ( corn he plants4 ,humboldt       
e/imat$ t #d1jjj p\nds ( bananas c be   
produc$ 9 ! same area z #cc p\nds ( :eat
 or #ii p\nds ( potatoes4  ,! natural   
weal? ( ! c\ntry is almo/ fabul\s4 ,its 
m\nta9 *a9s conta9 coal1 gold1 silv]1   
t91 z9c1 m]cury & :ole m\nta9s ( ! v be/
 iron ore1 :ile 9 =ty ye>s five million 
c>ats ( diamonds h be5 s5t to ,europe4  
,9 #aijg ,brazil export$ t5 million     
doll>s' wor? ( cocoa1 sev5ty million    
doll>s' wor? ( rubb]2 & f ! spl5did /one
 docks ( ,santos1 :i* put to %ame any?+ 
se5 on ?is nor!rn cont95t1 ei!r 9 ,new  
,york or ,bo/on1 !re 0 %ipp$ "o hundr$ &
 =ty-two million doll>s' wor? ( c(fee4  
,ar\nd ,rio ,janeiro alone !re are a    
hundr$ million c(fee trees1 & ! gr[]    
gets two crops a ye>4  ,yet ?is great   
republic has only _h its bord]s t\*$4 ,x
 is e/imat$ t !re are ov] a million     
,indians 9 ! int]ior1 :o hold undisput$ 
possession ( f\r-fif?s ( ! c\ntry4 ,?ree

 & a qu>t] million squ>e miles ( !      
republic ?us rema9s to a great ext5t an 
unkn[n1 unexplor$ wild]ness4 ,9 ?is area
 !re are ov] a million squ>e miles (    
virg9 =e/1 ! l>ge/ & d5se/ on e>?4 ,!   
=e/ region ( ! ,amazon is twelve hundr$ 
miles ea/ to we/1 & eight hundr$ miles  
nor? to s\?1 & ?is sombre1 primeval     
woodl& has n yet be5 cross$4 ,footnote3 
,j z ?is goes to press ! newspap]s      
ann\nce t ! ,brazilian ,gov]nm5t has    
appropriat$ #aj1jjj t[>ds ! exp5ses ( an
 exp$ition into ! int]ior1 "u ! lead]%ip
 ( ,h5ry ,savage ,l&or1 ! ,engli%       
explor]4  ,brazil's f$]al capital1 ,rio 
de ,janeiro1 /&s on ! f9e/ h>bor ( ! _w1
 9 :i* float %ips f all nations4 ,pr\de/
 among ^! crafts are ! l>ge ,brazilian  
gunboats4 ,x is a curi\s anomaly1 says !
 ,sci5tific ,am]ican1 t ! mo/ p[]ful    
,dreadn\ght afloat %\ld belong to a ,s\?
 ,am]ican republic1 b x _c be d5i$ t !  
,m9as ,g]aes is entitl$ to t di/9ction4 
,?is is "o ( ! vessels t mut9i$ 9 #aiaj4
  ,brazil is a /range republic4         

,fanatical1 :]e ! ,bible is burn$ 9 !   
public plaza :5ev] introduc$1 yet1 :]e !
 mo/ obsc5e pr9ts are publicly (f]$ =   
sale 9 ! /ores4 ,:]e x is a mortal s9 to
 li/5 to ! ,prote/ant mission>y1 & n a  
s9 to break ! :ole ,decalogue4          
,backw>d--:]e ! villag]s are ti$ to a   
po/ & :ipp$ by ! prie/ :5 !y d n please 
him4 ,progressive--9 ! cities :]e       
religion has be5 relegat$ to wom5 &     
*ildr5 & prie/s4  ,did ,i write ! ^w    
religion8 ,s5hor ,ruy ,b>bosa1 ! mo/    
conspicu\s repres5tative ( ,s\? ,am]ica 
at ! la/ ,hague ,conf]5ce1 & a c&idate =
 ! ,presid5cy ( ,brazil1 wrote ( x3     
,romanism is n a religion1 b a political
 organization1 ! mo/ vici\s1 ! mo/      
unscrupul\s1 & ! mo/ de/ructive ( all   
political sy/ems4 ,! monks are !        
propagators ( fanaticism1 ! debas]s (   
,*ri/ian morals4 ,! hi/ory ( papal      
influ5ce has be5 no?+ m nor less ?an !  
/ory ( ! dissem9ation ( a new paganism1 
z full ( sup]/ition & ( all             
unrighte\sness z ! my?ology ( !         

anci5ts--a new paganism organiz$ at !   
exp5se ( evangelical traditions1        
%amelessly falsifi$ & trave/i$ by !     
,romani/s4 ,! ,romi% ,*ur* 9 all ages   
has be5 a p[]1 religi\s sc>cely 9 "n1 b 
always inh]5tly1 ess5tially & untir+ly a
 political p[]4 ,z ,bi%op ,neely ( ! ,m4
 ,e4 ,*ur* 0 leav+ ,rio1 ,dr4 ,alex&]1  
"o ( ,brazil's mo/ influ5tial g5tlem51  
said to him3 ,x is sad to see my p s    
mis]able :5 !y might be s happy4 ,_!    
ills1 physical & moral1 spr+ f lack (   
religion4 ,!y call !mselves ,ca?olics1 b
 ! hea!n are sc>cely less ,*ri/ian6 ,is 
x surpris+ t ! ,italian pap] ,l',as9o   
7,! ,ass71 :i* exi/s only to ridicule   
,romanism1 has rec5tly be5 publi%+ mu* 9
 praise ( :at x calls au!ntic           
,*ri/ianity8  ,rio ,janeiro1 !          
beautiful1 is an imp]ial city ( impos+  
gr&eur4 ,x is ! l>ge/ ,portuguese city (
 ! _w--great] ?an ,lisbon & ,oporto     
toge!r4 ,x has be5 call$ ! f9e/ city on 
! cont95ts ( ,am]ica1--p]haps 9 ! _w1 ) 
unqualifi$ly ! mo/ beautiful /reet 9 all

 ! _w1 ! ,av5ida ,c5tral4 ,footnote3    
,cl>k4 ,cont95t ( ,opportunity4 ,t      
magnific5t av5ue1 ov] a mile long & "o  
hundr$ & t5 feet wide1 asphalt pav$ &   
sup]bly illum9at$1 is l9$ ) co/ly mod]n 
build+s1 "s ( !m truly impos+4 ,t5 p c  
walk abrea/ on its beautiful black &    
:ite mosaic sidewalks4 ,! build+s :i* _h
 to be demoli%$ 9 ord] to build ?is     
sup]b av5ue co/ ! gov]nm5t sev5 & a half
 millions ( doll>s1 & !y 7 b\ght at _!  
tax$ value1 :i*1 x 0 e/imat$1 0 only a  
?ird ( ! actual4 ,footnote3 ,b z a      
wond]ful city1 ! cr[n+ glory (          
,brazil--yes ( ! _w1 ,i believe--is ,rio
 de ,janeiro4--,c4 ,w4 ,furlong1 9 ,!   
,_w's ,"w4  ,"s ye>s ago ,i knew a ?\s& 
p a day to die 9 ,rio ,janeiro ( yell[  
fev]4 ,x is n[ "o ( ! heal?ie/ ( cities1
 ) a dea?-rate f> less ?an t ( ,new     
,york4  ,rio ,janeiro1 z ,i fir/ knew x1
 0 f> beh9d4 ,oil lamps %$ fitful gleams
 "h & !re on half-nak$ p4 ,electric     
lights n[ dispel ! d>kness ( ! /reets1 &
 electric /reetc>s ?read 9 & out ( !    

,ruas4 ,!re is progress ev]y:]e & 9     
ev]y?+4  ,to-day ! native ( ,rio        
tru?fully boa/s t 8 city has ! f9e/     
/reet-c> sy/em ( any city ( ! _w4  ,a   
man is n p]mitt$ to ride 9 ^! c>s unless
 he we>s a tie1 :i* seems to be ! badge 
( respectability4 ,to a visitor ^!      
exactions are amus+4 ,a fri5d ( m9e     
visit$ ! city1 & we rode toge!r on ! c>s
 until x 0 discov]$ t he wore no tie4 ,!
 day 0 hot1 & my fri5d 7a g5tleman (    
private means7 _h ?\ght t a :ite silk   
%irt ) turn-d[n coll> 0 en\gh4 ,we felt 
some:at humiliat$ :5 he 0 ignom9i\sly   
turn$ (f ! c>1 :ile ! black ex-slaves on
 bo>d smil$ ari/ocratically4 ,if y visit
 ,rio ,janeiro1 by all means we> a tie4 
,if y =get y\r %irt1 or coat1 or boots1 
x w matt] little1 b ! abs5ce ( a tie w  
give ! negro cause to insult y4  ,"s    
l>ge1 box-l c>s h ! words ,descalcos    
,bagagem 7lit]ally1 ,= ! ,%oeless &     
,baggage7 pr9t$ across !m4 ,9 ^! ! poor]
 classes & ! tieless c ride =           
half-price4 ,& to make room = !         

con/antly infl[+ p f ,europe1 two great 
hills are be+ remov$ & ca/ into ! sea4  
,rio ,janeiro may be e>?'s com+ city4 ,x
 some:at di/urbs our self-complac5cy to 
le>n t !y h sp5t m = public improvem5ts 
?an has any city ( ! ,unit$ ,/ates1 ) ! 
exception ( ,new ,york4 ,municipal      
works1 involv+ an exp5diture (          
#dj1jjj1jjj1 h contribut$ to ?is4  ,rio 
,janeiro1 h[ev]1 is n ! only l>ge & gr[+
 city ,brazil c boa/ (4 ,sao ,paulo1 )  
its population ( #cjj1jjj & its         
two-million-doll> op]a h\se1 :i* fills !
 space ( ?ree ,new ,york blocks1 is     
wor?y ( m5tion4 ,bahia1 f\nd$ 9 #aedi1  
has #bgj1jjj inhabitants1 & is ! c5tre (
 ! diamond m>ket ( ,brazil4 ,p>1 ) its  
population ( #bjj1jjj1 :o export "o     
hundr$ million doll>s' wor? ( rubb]     
ye>ly & keep up a !atre bett] ?an any?+ 
( ! k9d 9 ,new ,york1 is no mean city4  
,p]nambuco1 also1 has #bjj1jjj          
inhabitants1 l>ge build+s1 & z mu* z    
eight million doll>s h rec5tly be5      
devot$ to h>bor improvem5ts !re4        

,outside ( ^! cities !re are e/ates1 q a
 few ( :i* are wor? m ?an a million     
doll>s2 "o c(fee plantation has five    
million trees & employs five ?\s& p4  ,)
 its ,amazon ,riv]1 six hundr$ miles    
long] ?an ! j\rney f ,new ,york to      
,liv]pool1 ,engl&1 ) its eight bran*es1 
ea* ( :i* is navigable = m ?an a ?\s&   
miles1 ,brazil's future mu/ be v great4 
,,*apt] ,,xii4  ,a ,,j\rney ,,f ,,rio   
,,janeiro ,,to ,,! ,,inl& ,,t[n ,,(     
,,corumba4   ,brazil has ov] #aj1jjj    
miles ( railway1 b z x is a c\ntry l>g] 
?an ! :ole ( ,europe1 ! read] c easily  
und]/& t _m p>ts mu/ be /ill remote f ! 
iron road & almo/ inaccessible4 ,! t[n (
 ,cuyab1 z ! cr[ flies1 is n "o ?\s&    
miles f ,rio1 b1 9 ! abs5ce ( any k9d ( 
roads1 ! travell] f ,rio mu/ sail d[n ! 
"o ?\s& miles ( sea-coa/1 &1 ent]+ !    
,riv] ,plate1 proce$ up ! ,p>an1        
,p>aguay1 & ,san ,lor5zo riv]s to rea*  
x1 mak+ x a j\rney ( #c1fjj miles4  ,9 !
 "t dem&$ = a ,brazilian to rea* po9ts 9
 ! int]ior1 sett+ out f ! national      

capital & go+ ei!r by way ( ! ,amazon or
 ,rio de la ,plata sy/ems ( wat]ways1 he
 might j\rney to ,europe & back two or  
?ree times ov]4 ,footnote3 ,sylve/]     
,baxt]1 9 ,! ,outlook1 ,m>*1 #aijh4  ,! 
writ] on "o occasion 0 9 ,rio :5 a c]ta9
 mission call$ him to ! t[n ( ,corumb1  
di/ant p]haps #a1cjj miles f ! capital4 
,does ! read] wi% to j\rney to t inl&   
t[n ) him8  ,bo>d+ an ocean /eam] at    
,rio1 we sail d[n ! /ormy sea-coa/ = "o 
?\s& miles to ,montevideo4 ,!re we      
tran%ip into ! ,bu5os ,ayres boat1 &    
proce$ "o hundr$ & fifty miles up ! riv]
 to t city4 ,almo/ e day /eam]s leave t 
great c5tre = f> int]ior po9ts4 ,!      
,rapido 0 ready to sail = ,asuncion1 s  
we brea/$ ! /ream "o ?\s& miles m1 :5 t 
city 0 rea*$4 ,!re ano!r /eam] wait$ to 
c>ry u to ,corumb1 ano!r ?\s& miles     
fur!r nor?4  ,! climate & sc5]y ( ! upp]
 rea*es ( ! ,p>aguay are sup]b1 b our   
spirits 7 damp$ "o morn+ :5 we discov]$ 
t a man ( our p>ty _h my/]i\sly         
disappe>$ dur+ ! night4 ,we _h all sat  

d[n to d9n] ! previ\s ev5+ 9 heal? &    
spirits1 & n[ "o 0 miss+4 ,! ,all-see+  
,"o only kn[s 8 fate4 ,to u he disappe>$
 =ev]4  ,high] up ! c\ntry--or l[]1 ,i  
_c tell :i*1 = ! riv] w9ds 9 all        
directions1 & ! compass1 f po9t+ our    
c\rse z due nor?1 glides ov] to nor?we/1
 we/1 s\?we/1 & on "o or two occasions1 
,i believe1 po9t$ due s\?--we came to ! 
fir/ ,brazilian t[n1 ,pu]to ,m>t9ho1 :]e
 we 7 oblig$ to /ay a %ort "t4 ,a boat  
put (f f ! %ore1 9 :i* 7 "s well-dress$ 
natives4 ,be=e %e rea*$ u & made fa/1 a 
l\d report ( a ,w9*e/] rang out f ! mid/
 ( ^? assembl$ on ! deck ( our /eam]1 & 
a man 9 ! boat ?rew up 8 arms & dropp$2 
! sp>k ( life _h gone out4 ,s quickly   
did ?is happ5 t be=e we _h "t to look   
ar\nd ! un=tunate man 0 welt]+ 9 8 own  
blood 9 ! bottom ( ! boat6 ,! assass91  
an eld]ly ,brazilian1 :o _h eat5 at our 
table & sc>cely spok5 to anyone1 /epp$  
=w>d quietly1 confess+ t he _h %ot "o ( 
8 old enemies4 ,he 0 !n tak5 a%ore 9 !  
%ip's boat1 !re to await ,brazilian     

ju/ice1 & lat] on1 to appe> be=e a high]
 tribunal1 :]e ! acc\nts ( all m5 w be  
balanc$4  ,su* rott5ness obta9s 9       
,brazilian law t n long s9ce a judge su$
 9 c\rt a man :o _h brib$ him & s\ght to
 evade pay+ ! bribe4 ,kn[+ ?is laxity1  
we did n anticipate t our murd]\s       
fell[-travell] w\ld h to suff] mu* = 8  
crime4 ,! ,news1 ( ,rio ,janeiro1       
rec5tly said3 ,! puni%m5t ( a crim9al :o
 has any influ5ce :atev] is becom+ "o ( 
! =gott5 ?+s4  ,aft] leav+ ,pu]to       
,m>t9ho1 ! uni=m flatness ( ! riv] banks
 *anges to wild1 m\nta9\s c\ntry4 ,on   
ei!r h& rise high m\nta9s1 ^: blue tops 
at times almo/ fr[n$ ov] our heads1 & ! 
luxuriant tropical vegetation1 ) creep+ 
lianas1 ?reat5$ to b> our progress4     
,huge alligators sunn$ !mselves on !    
banks1 & birds ( brilliant plumage flew 
f bran* to bran*4 ,c>p9*os1 ) heavy1    
pig-l tread1 walk$ among ! ru%es ( !    
%ore1 & made m ?an "o good di% = our    
table4 ,?is wat]-hog1 ! l>ge/ gnaw+     
animal 9 ! _w1 is "h v common4 ,_! l5g?1

 f end ( sn\t to tail1 is betwe5 ?ree & 
f\r feet1 :ile !y frequ5tly weigh up to 
"o hundr$ p\nds4 ,! gir? ( _! body w (t5
 exce$ ! l5g? by a foot4 ,= food1 !y eat
 ! _m aquatic plants ( ! riv] banks1 & !
 puma1 9 turn1 f9ds !m z delici\s a     
morsel z we did4 ,! head ( ?is amphibi\s
 hog pres5ts q a ludicr\s aspect1 ow+ to
 ! great dep? ( ! jaw1 & to see !m sitt+
 on _! haun*es1 l huge rabbits1 is an   
amus+ sight4 ,! "y cl+ on to ! "m's back
 :5 %e swims4  ,f>!r on we /opp$ to take
 9 wood at a l>ge ,brazilian cattle     
e/abli%m5t1 & a man !re assur$ u t !re 7
 no v5om\s insects except tig]s1 b ^!   
kill$ at lea/ fifte5 p] c5t4 ( 8        
animals4 ,n long previ\sly a tig] _h1 9 
"o night1 kill$ five m5 & a dog4 ,! heat
 e day grew m oppressive4 ,on ! eigh?   
day we pass$ ! ,brazilian =t & ars5al ( 
,cuimbre1 ) its brass cannon %9+ 9 a sun
 ( brass1 & its sleepy inhabitants loll+
 9 ! %ade4  ,five weeks aft] leav+ ,rio 
,janeiro we f9ally an*or$ 9 ,corumb1 an 
int5sely sultry spot4 ,corumb is a t[n (

 #e1jjj inhabitants1 & (t5 said to be "o
 ( ! hotte/ 9 ! _w4 ,x is an unheal?y   
place1 z are mo/ t[ns )\t dra9age & wat]
 supply4 ,9 ! hott] season ( ! ye> !    
ratio on a six mon?s' av]age may be two 
dea?s to "o bir?4 ,x is a place :]e dogs
 at times seem m num]\s ?an p1 a t[n :]e
 ju/ice is adm9i/]$ 9 ways new & /range4
 ,does ! read] wi% an in/ance8 ,an      
assass9 ( ! deepe/ dye 0 giv5 ov] by !  
judge to ! t5d] m]cies ( ! cr[d4 ,! man 
0 !reupon attack$ by ! :ole population 9
 "o mass4 ,he 0 %ot & /abb$1 /on$ &     
beat5 until he became almo/ a %apeless  
heap1 & 0 !n hurri$ away 9 a mule c>t1  
&1 )\t c(f91 prie/ or m\rn]s1 0 buri$ l 
a dog4  ,p]haps ! populace felt !y _h to
 take ! law into _! own h&s1 = ,i 0 told
 t ! ,gov]nor _h tak5 ^u himself !      
responsibility ( leav+ ! prison gates   
op5 to ?irty-two m51 :o _h quietly walk$
 out4 ,^! m5 _h be5 inc>c]at$ = v>i\s   
reasons1 murd]1 etc41 = ev5 9 ?is /ate (
 ,matto ,grosso an assass9 :o _c pay or 
escape suff]s a little imprisonm5t4 ,!  

excuse 01 ,we _c af=d to keep s _m idle 
m5--we are poor4 ,:at a confession = a  
,brazilian6 ,i d n v\* = ! /ory1 = ,i 0 
n an eye-witness to ! act1 b x is q 9 ! 
range ( ,brazilian possibilities4 ,!    
only discrepancy may be ! /range way (  
,portuguese c\nt+4 ,a man buys ?ree     
horses1 b 8 acc\nt is t he has b\ght    
twelve feet ( horses4 ,he emb>ks a      
hundr$ c[s1 b ! manife/ describes !     
transaction z f\r hundr$ feet4 ,!       
,brazilian is 9 ?is respect almo/ a     
,yankee--little sums d n cont5t him4 ,:y
 %\ld !y1 :5 he c tru?fully boa/ t 8    
t]ritory is l>g] ?an t ( ! ,unit$       
,/ates8 ,8 mile is long] ?an t ( any o!r
 nation1 & ! bocad9ho1 or extra m\?ful1 
:i* g5]ally accompanies x1 is endless4  
,in/ead ( hav+ "o hundr$ c5ts to !      
doll>1 he has two ?\s&1 & ea* c5t is    
call$ a k+4 ,! s\nd is big1 b alas1 !   
value ( 8 money is insignificantly      
small6  ,! *ild is n cont5t ) be+ call$ 
,john ,smi?4 ,jos ,m>ia ,jesus ,joo dois
 ,sanctos ,sylva da ,co/a da ,cunha is 8

 "n2 & he recites x1 z ,i1 9 my         
boyhood's days1 us$ to say a piece :ile 
/&+ on a *air4 ,!re is no s*ool 9 ! t[n4
 ,9 ,brazil1 #hd p] c5t4 ( ! entire     
population are illit]ate4  ,corumb      
conta9s a few /ores ( all descriptions1 
b x w\ld seem t ! /ock 9 trade ( ! *emi/
 is v l[1 = ,i ov]he>d a conv]sation    
betwe5 two wom5 "o day1 :o said !y c\ld 
n get ?is or t--9 fact1 he only keeps   
cures = /abs & su* l ?+s4 ,9 ! armazems 
liquors are sold1 & rice1 salt & beans  
despat*$ to ! cu/om] by ! p9t4 ,:y w9e &
 milk are n sold by ! p\nd ,i did n     
enquire4  ,"o is n to ask too mu* 9     
,brazil1 or (f5ce is giv54 ,:5 seat$ at 
table "o day ) a comrade1 :o _h !       
mis=tune to swall[ a bone1 ,i quietly   
swall[$ ! rem$y a ,brazilian told u (4  
,he said _! cu/om 0 = all to turn away  
_! heads1 :ile ! un=tunate "o revolv$ 8 
plate ar\nd ?ree times to ! left1 &     
pre/o6 ! bone disappe>$4 ,my fri5d did n
 believe 9 ! cure2 consequ5tly1 he      
suff]$ = sev]al days4  ,i h said t dogs 

are num]\s4 ,^! animals roam ! /reets by
 day & night 9 packs & fight & te> at   
anyone or any?+4 ,"s days be=e we arriv$
 !re 7 ev5 m1 b a few p\nds ( poison _h 
be5 scatt]$ ab\t ! /reets--:i*1 by !    
way1 are ! wor/ ( any t[n ,i h ev]      
ent]$--& ! dog population ( ! _w        
decreas$ n9e hundr$4 ,?is is ! ,corumb  
v]sion4 ,p]haps ! tru? is1 n9e hundr$   
feet1 or1 z we c\nt1 two hundr$ &       
tw5ty-five dogs4 ,9 ! int]e/s (         
humanity1 ,i hope ! numb] 0 n9e hundr$  
heads4 ,five c>ts !n patroll$ ! /reets &
 c>ri$ away to ! outskirts ^? dead dogs1
 :i* 7 !re burnt4 ,i1 ! writ]1 f9d !    
latt] "p ( ! /ory h>de/ to believe4 ,:y 
%\ld a freeborn ,brazilian lift dogs out
 ( ! /reet8 ,9 :at bett] place c\ld !y  
be8 ,!y w\ld fill up ! holes & ruts1 &1 
9 su* int5se heat1 :y d ne$less "w8     
,corumb is a typical ,brazilian t[n4    
,little c>ts1 drawn by a /r+ ( goats or 
rams1 ?read _! way ?r\gh ! /reets4 ,any 
animal b ! human mu/ d ! "w4 ,z !       
majority ( ! p g b>efoot$1 ! patri>*al  

cu/om prevails ( hav+ wat] (f]$ on ent]+
 a h\se to wa% ! feet4 ,at all h\rs ( ! 
day m51 wom5 & *ildr5 seek to cool      
!mselves 9 ! riv]1 :i* is "h a mile     
wide1 & ) a dep? ( #bj feet 9 ! *annel4 
,:ile on ! subject ( ba?+1 ,i might     
m5tion t a wood5 image ( ! patron sa9t (
 ! t[n is1 ) great pomp1 br\ght d[n at !
 head ( a long procession1 once e ye>1  
to receive 8 annual duck 9 ! wat]4 ,?is 
is suppos$ to b5efit him mu*4 ,aft] 8   
imm]sion1 all ! inhabitants1 m51 wom5 & 
*ildr51 make a ru% to be ! fir/ to dip 9
 ! bless$ wat]1 =1 by do+ ?is1 all _!   
s9s are =giv5 !m = a ye> to come4 ,!    
sick are c>eful to see t !y are n left 9
 ! position ( ! un=tunate "o m5tion$ 9 !
 ,gospel by ,john1 :o _h no "o to put   
him into ! pool4  ,i h also kn[n !      
,virg9 solemnly c>ri$ d[n to ! wat]'s   
edge1 t %e might comm& x to rise or     
fall1 z suit$ ! conv5i5ce ( ! p4 ,:ile  
%e ex]cis$ h] p[] ! natives knelt ar\nd 
h] on ! %+ly bea* 9 raptur\s devotion4  
,at su* times ! ,"m ( ,heav5 is clo!d 9 

h] be/1 & ! jewels 9 h] co/ume sp>kle 9 
! tropical sun4  ,:at ! ,nile is to     
,egypt1 ! ,p>aguay ,riv] is to ^!       
int]ior l&s1 & :at ,isis 0 to !         
,egyptians1 s is ! ,virg9 to ^! p4      
,once1 :5 ! wat]s 7 l[1 x is relat$ !   
,virg9 came d[n f heav5 & /ood ^u "s    
rocks 9 ! riv] b$4 ,to ?is day ! pilot  
tells y h[ h] footpr9ts are to be cle>ly
 se51 impress$ 9 ! /one1 :5 ! wat] is   
%all[4 ,/range t ,mahomet does n rise f 
8 tomb & prote/1 = t miracle we mu/     
conc$e to him1 because 8 footpr9ts h be5
 on ! sacr$ rocks at ,mecca = a ?\s&    
ye>s4 ,does he pass x ov]1 believ+1 )   
_m1 t imitation is ! s9c]e/ =m (        
flatt]y8  ,:atev] ,roman ,ca?olicism is 
9 o!r p>ts ( ! _w1 9 ,s\? ,am]ica x is  
pure ,m>iolatry4 ,! cre$1 z we h se51   
reads3 ,m>y mu/ be our fir/ object (    
wor%ip1 ,sa9t ,joseph ! second4 ,along )
 ^!1 sa9ts1 liv+ & dead1 are numb]less4 
,a travell] 9 ,s\? ,brazil ?us writes ( 
a fam\s monk3 ,!re1 9 a %$ at ! back ( a
 small f>m1 half sitt+1 half recl9+ on a

 mat & a sk9 ( "s wild animal1 0 a man (
 ab\t sev5ty ye>s ( age1 9 a /ate (     
nudity4 ,a small piece ( r$ blanket 0   
?r[n ov] 8 %\ld]s1 b>ely cov]+ !m4 ,8   
:ole body 0 encru/$ ) fil?1 & 8 nails _h
 gr[n l claws4 ,8 vacant look %[$ him to
 be a poor1 helpless idiot4 ,beside him 
a l>ge wood fire 0 kept burn+4 ,! a%es (
 ?is fire1 /rewn ar\nd him = ! sake (   
cleanl9ess1 are c>ri$ away = m$ic9al    
purposes by ! ?\s&s ( pilgrims :o visit 
him4 ,m5 & wom5 come f long di/ances to 
see him1 9 ! full p]suasion t he is a   
holy man & has miracul\s p[]s4          
,footnote3 ,! ,neglect$ ,cont95t        
,romanism is ?us se5 to be 9 a d\ble    
s5se a moral pe/il5ce4  ,! *ur* is1 (   
c\rse1 v mu* 9 evid5ce 9 ,corumb1 = x is
 a v religi\s place4 ,a missa cantata is
 (t5 held !re1 :5 a noisy brass b& w    
r5d] dance music1 (t5 at ! moat solemn  
p>ts4 ,! drums frequ5tly beat until !   
wor%ipp]s are almo/ deaf5$4  ,9 ! t[n ( 
,bom ,fim1 a little fur!r nor?1 ! prie/ 
runs a %[ opposite 8 *ur*1 & ov] x are  

pr9t$ ! words1 ,!atre ( ! ,holy ,gho/4  
,?9k1 ,o intellig5t read]1 h[ d5se mu/  
be ! d>kness ( ,papal ,am]ica :5 a *ur* 
notice1 :i* anyone may see affix$ to !  
door1 reads3  ,,raffle ,,fob ,,s\ls4  ,a
 raffle = s\ls w be held at ?is ,*ur* on
 ,janu>y #a/1 at :i* f\r ble$+ & tortur$
 s\ls w be releas$ f purgatory to heav51
 accord+ to ! f\r highe/ tickets 9 ?is  
mo/ holy lott]y4 ,tickets1 #a4jj4 ,to be
 _h ( ! fa!r 9 *>ge4 ,w y1 = ! poor sum 
( "o doll>1 leave y\r lov$ ones to burn 
9 purgatory = ages8  ,at ! la/ raffle = 
s\ls1 ! foll[+ numb]s obta9$ ! prize1 & 
! lucky hold]s may be assur$ t _! lov$  
ones are =ev] releas$ f ! flames (      
purgatory3 ,ticket #dl4--,! s\l (       
,madame ,cold]n is made happy = ev]4    
,ticket #gfb4--,! s\l ( ! ag$ wid[1     
,francesca de ,p>son1 is =ev] releas$ f 
! flames ( purgatory4 ,ticket #hdl4--,! 
s\l ( ,lawy] ,vasquez is releas$ f      
purgatory & u%]$ into heav5ly joys4     
,footnote3 ,gospel ,message4  ,b1 my    
read] asks1 ,d ! p implicitly believe   

all ! prie/ says8 ,no1 sometimes !y say1
 ,%[ u a sign4 ,?is 0 especially true ( 
! p liv+ on ! ,*ili-,bolivian bord]4 ,! 
wily1 yet progressive1 prie/ !re made a 
numb] ( little balloons1 :i* on a c]ta9 
day ( ! ye> 7 s5t up into ! sky1 be>+   
away ! s9s ( ! p4 ,( c\rse1 :5 !        
villag]s saw _! s9s float away be=e _!  
own eyes1 enclos$ 9 little cry/al       
sph]es1 su* z c\ld n be e>?ly1 !y       
believ$ & rejoic$4 ,yes1 read]1 ! ,s\?  
,am]ican prie/ is alive to 8 position   
aft] all1 & ev5 pat5ts are requisition$4
 ,9 "s ( ! l>g] *ur*es !re is ! slot    
ma*9e1 :i*1 :5 a co9 is ins]t$1 gives   
out ,! ,pope's bless+4 ,?is is simply a 
picture repres5t+ 8 ,hol9ess ) uplift$  
h&s4  ,! foll[+ is a lit]al translation1
 f ! ,portuguese1 ( a notice 9 a ,rio   
,janeiro newspap]3  ,,fe/ival ,,9       
,,honor ,,( ,,! ,,lady ,,( ,,naz>e?4  ,!
 day w be u%]$ 9 ) maje/ic & deaf5+     
fireworks1 & ! ',hail ,m>y' r5d]$ by !  
beautiful b& ( !----,infantry regim5t4  
,!re w be an int5tional mass1 gr& vocal 

& in/rum5tal music1 solemn vesp]s1 !    
,gospel prea*$1 & ribbons1 :i* h be5    
plac$ r\nd ! neck ( ! image ( ,/4 ,broz1
 di/ribut$4  ,! squ>e1 ta/efully        
decorat$ & pomp\sly illum9at$1 w af=d ! 
devotees1 aft] _! supplications to ! ,"l
 ( ! ,univ]se1 ! foll[+ means (         
amusem5t1-----! ,*9ese ,pavilion1       
etc41-----4 ,ev5+ s]vice conclud$1 !re w
 be danc$ 9 ! ,flora ,pavilion ! f&ango 
p&]eta4 ,9 ! same pavilion a comic      
company w act sev]al pieces4 ,on        
,sunday1 ^u ! conclusion ( ! ,te ,deum1 
! comic company w p]=m1 etc4  ,!        
spiritual d>kness is appall+4 ,if !     
foll[+ c be writt5 ( ,p]nambuco1 a l>ge 
city ( #ahj1jjj inhabitants1 on ! sea   
coa/1 ! read] c1 9 a measure1 und]/& !  
prie/ly ?raldom ( ^! isolat$ t[ns4 ,a   
,p]nambuco newspap]1 9 its issue ( ,m>* 
#a/1 #aijc1 conta9s an article head$1   
,burn+ ( ,bibles1 :i* says3  ,z has be5 
ann\nc$1 !re 0 realiz$ 9 ! squ>e ( !    
,*ur* ( ,p5ha1 on ! #bbnd ult41 at n9e  
o'clock 9 ! morn+1 9 ! pres5ce ( m ?an  

two ?\s& p1 ! burn+ ( two hundr$ &      
f\rte5 volumes ( ! ,prote/ant ,bible1   
amid/ en?usia/ic *e]s = ! ,ca?olic      
religion1 ! immaculate ,virg9 ,m>y1 & ! 
,high ,prie/ ,leo ,,xiii4--*e]s rais$   
spontane\sly by ! ,ca?olic p4 ,footnote3
 ,lit]al translation f ! ,portuguese4   
,a colporteur1 kn[n to me1 :5 engag$    
sell+ ,bibles 9 a ,brazilian t[n1       
reports t ! fanatical populace got 8    
books & c>ri$ !m1 fa/5$ & burn+1 at !   
end ( blaz+ tor*es1 :ile !y tramp$ !    
/reets1 yell+3 ,away ) all false books6 
,away ) ! religion ( ! devils6 ,a rec5t 
,papal bull reads3 ,bible burn+s are mo/
 ,ca?olic demon/rations4  ,is x cause = 
wond] t ! ,spani%-,am]ican ,republics h 
be5 s backw>d8  ,i h se5 a notice head$ 
,,savi\r ,,( ,,s\ls1 mak+ kn[n ! fact t 
at a c]ta9 address a ,mo/ ,holy ,rev]5d 
,fa!r w\ld be 9 att5dance dur+ c]ta9    
h\rs1 will+ to save ! s\l ( any & e     
applicant on paym5t ( s mu*4 ,t         
revelation :i* tells ( a ,savi\r )\t    
money or price is d5i$ !m4  ,corumb is a

 /range1 lawless place1 :]e ! ragg$1    
b>efoot$ night policeman inspires m     
t]ror 9 ! law-abid+ ?an ! pr(essional   
pr[l]4 ,! =m] has a %>p sword1 :i*      
glitt]s z he ?reat5s1 & ! latt] has (t5 
a k9d he>t1 & only asks mil reis 7ab\t  
?irty c5ts74  ,h[ c a t[n be gov]n$     
prop]ly :5 its capital is ?ree ?\s&     
miles di/ant1 & ! only op5 r\te ?i!r is1
 by riv] & sea1 a mon?'s j\rney8 ,p]haps
 ! day is n f> di/ant :5 ,cuyab1 ! mo/  
c5tral city ( ,s\? ,am]ica1 & l>g] ?an  
,corumb1 ly+ hundr$s ( miles fur!r up ! 
riv]1 w set up a head ( its own to rule1
 or misrule1 ! prov9ce4 ,brazil is too  
big1 mu* too big1 or ! ,gov]nm5t is too 
little1 mu* too little4  ,! l>ge /ates  
are subdivid$ into di/ricts1 or p>i%es1 
ea* "u an ecclesia/ical head1 z may be  
inf]r$ f ! peculi> names _m ( !m be>4   
,!re are ! p>i%es (3  ,our ,lady1 ,"m ( 
,god ( ,porridge4  ,! ,?ree ,he>ts (    
,jesus4  ,our ,lady ( ! ,ros>y ( !      
,pepp] ,tree4  ,! ,s\ls ( ! ,s& ,bank ( 
! ,riv] ( ,old ,wom54  ,! ,holy ,gho/ ( 

! ,cocoanut ,tree4  ,our ,lady ,"m ( !  
,m5 ( ,mud4  ,! ,s& ,bank ( ! ,holy     
,gho/4  ,! ,holy ,_s ( ! ,pit*=k4  ,!   
,brazilian army1 v mat]ially aid$ by !  
sa9ts1 is able to keep ?is great c\ntry1
 ) its _m di/ricts1 9 tol]able          
quietness4 ,sa9t ,an?ony1 :o1 :5 "y1 0  
privileg$ to c>ry ! toys ( ! *ild       
,jesus1 is1 9 ?is respect1 ( great      
s]vice to ! ,brazilians4 ,! milit>y /&+ 
( ,sa9t ,an?ony 9 ! ,brazilian army is  
"o ( consid]able importance & div]sifi$ 
s]vice4 ,accord+ to a /atem5t ( ,deputy 
,sp9ola1 made on ! #ac? ( ,june1 ! em95t
 sa9t's fea/ day1 8 c>e] 9 ! milit>y    
s]vice ( ,brazil has be5 ! foll[+3 ,by a
 royal lett] ( ! #g? ( ,april1 #agjg1 ! 
commission ( capta9 0 conf]r$ ^u ! image
 ( ,sa9t ,an?ony1 ( ,bahia4 ,?is image 0
 promot$ to be a major ( infantry by a  
decree ( ,septemb] #ac?1 #ahai4 ,9      
,july1 #ahei1 8 pay 0 plac$ ^u ! regul> 
pay-roll ( ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,w>4  ,! image 
( ,/4 ,an?ony 9 ,rio de ,janeiro1 h[ev]1
 outranks 8 c\nt]p>t ( ,bahia1 & seems  

to h _h a m brilliant milit>y record4 ,8
 commission z capta9 dates f a royal    
lett] ( ,m>* #ba/1 #agaa4 ,he 0 promot$ 
to be major ( infantry 9 ,july1 #ahaj1 &
 to be lieut5ant-colonel 9 #ahad4 ,he 0 
decorat$ ) ! ,gr& ,cross ( ! ,ord] (    
,*ri/ also1 9 #ahad1 & 8 pay z          
lieut5ant-colonel 0 made a p]man5t *>ge 
on ! milit>y li/ 9 #ahcc4  ,! image (   
,/4 ,an?ony ( ,ouro ,preto atta9$ ! rank
 & pay ( capta9 9 #agii4 ,8 c>e] has be5
 an unev5tful "o1 & has be5 conf9$      
pr9cipally to ! n unpleasant task (     
draw+ #dhj a mon? f ! public treasury4  
,! sal>ies ( all ^! soldi]y images are  
drawn by duly con/itut$ attorneys4      
,footnote3 ,rio ,news  ,ow+ to bubonic  
plague1 my /ay 9 ,corumb 0 prolong$4 ,i 
h be5 9 ! city ( ,bahia :5 an av]age (  
#bjj di$ e day f ?is t]rible disease1 s 
,brazil is beg9n+ to be m c>eful4  ,?\gh
 /eam]s 7 n runn+1 p]spiration 04 ,oh1 !
 heat6 ,9 my excursions 9 & ar\nd ! t[n 
,i f\nd t ev5 ! mule ,i _h hir$1        
acclimatiz$ z x 0 to heat & ?ir/ &      

hung]1 began to %[ signs ( fatigue4 ,c  
man or bea/ be expect$ to "w :5 !       
temp]ature /&s at #acj degrees          
,fahr5heit 9 ! %ade8  ,z ! natives f9d  
bullocks be> ! heat bett] ?an mules1 ,i 
procur$ "o ( ^! saddle animals1 b x c\ld
 only travel at a snail's pace4 ,i 0    
inde$ ?ankful to quit ! ov5 ( a t[n :5  
at la/ qu>ant9e 0 rais$ & a ,brazilian  
/eamboat call$4  ,rats 7 s exce$+ly     
num]\s on ?is packet t !y w\ld scamp]   
ov] our bodies at night4 ,s bold 7 !y t 
we 7 compell$ to take a cudgel into our 
b]?s6 ,a ,brazilian pass5g] decl>$ "o   
morn+ t he _h c\nt$ ?ree hundr$ rats on 
! cab9 floor at "o "t6 ,i h already     
ref]r$ to ,brazilian numb]+2 p]haps he  
meant ?ree hundr$ feet1 or sev5ty-five  
rats4  ,) ! heat & ! rats1 supplem5t$ by
 millions ( mosquitos1 my ,corumb j\rney
 0 n exactly a picnic4  ,9 due "t we    
arriv$ aga9 at ,pu]to ,m>t9io1 only to  
he> t our =m] fell[-pass5g]1 ! assass91 
_h rega9$ 8 fre$om & c\ld be se5 walk+  
ab\t ! t[n4 ,b !n--well1 he 0 ri*1 &    

money does all 9 ,brazil--yea1 ! prie/ w
 ev5 tell y x pur*ases an entrance into 
heav56 ,9 worldly matt]s ! p see its    
p[]1 & 9 spiritual matt]s !y believe x4 
,if ! prie/ has he>d ( ,pet]'s answ] to 
,simon--,?y money p]i% ) !e1 because ?\ 
ha/ ?\ght t ! gift ( ,god may be pur*as$
 ) money--he keeps x to himself4 ,h[ c  
he live if he deceives n8 ,/range inde$ 
is ! ?\ght t1 ?ree hundr$ ye>s be=e !   
c>avels ( ,portuguese conqu]ors ev]     
sail$ ^! wat]s1 ! law ( ! ,indian rul] (
 t v "p ( ! c\ntry read3 ,judges :o     
receive bribes f _! cli5ts are to be    
consid]$ z ?ieves m]it+ dea?4 ,& a      
clause 9 ! ,sacr$ ,book read3 ,he :o    
kills ano!r condemns 8 own self4 ,has ! 
int]ior ( ,s\? ,am]ica gone =w>d or     
backw>d s9ce !n8 ,0 ! adoration ( ! ,sun
 m civiliz+ ?an ! wor%ip ( ! ,virg98    
,:5 we got d[n into ,arg5t9e wat]s ,i   
began to feel cold1 & donn$ an ov]coat4 
,?9k+ x /range t ,i %\ld feel ?us 9 !   
latitude :i* _h 9 =m] times be5 s       
agreeable1 ,i inve/igat$1 & f\nd !      

!rmomet] #he degrees ,fah4 9 ! %ade4    
,aft] ,corumb t 0 cold4     ,,"p ,v4    
,,uruguay   ,illu/ration   ,,! ,,lone   
,,trail4     ,& sometimes x leads to !  
des]t & ! tongue swells     out ( ! m\?1
   ,& y /agg] bl9d to ! mirage1 to die 9
 ! mock+     dr\?4   ,& sometimes x     
leads to ! m\nta91 to ! light ( !       
lone camp-fire1   ,& y gnaw y\r belt 9 !
 angui% ( ! hung]-goad$     desire4     
--,rob]t ,w4 ,s]vice4    ,! ,republic ( 
,uruguay has #gb1baj squ>e miles (      
t]ritory1 & is ! smalle/ ( ! t5 c\ntries
 ( ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,its population is only
 #a1ajc1jjj1 b ! ,liebig ,company1 :i*  
manufactures beef tea = ! _w1 owns ne>ly
 a million acres ( l& 9 ,uruguay4 ,on   
its enorm\s ran*es ov] #f1jjj1jjj head (
 cattle h pass$ ?r\gh its h&s 9 ! fifty 
ye>s ( its exi/5ce4 ,footnote3 ,cl>k4   
,cont95t ( ,opportunity4  ,! republic   
seems well gov]n$1 b1 z 9 all           
,spani%-,am]ican c\ntries1 ! ideas ( "r 
& wrong are /range4 ,:ile tak+ "p 9 a   
religi\s procession1 ,presid5t ,borda 0 

assass9at$ 9 #ahig4 ,a man 0 se5 to     
delib]ately walk up & %oot him4 ,! ,*ief
 ,executive fell mortally w\nd$4 ,?is   
cool murd]] 0 condemn$ to two ye>s'     
imprisonm5t = insult+ ! ,presid5t4  ,9  
#aijj1 ,presid5t ,arr$ondo 0 assass9at$1
 b ! murd]] 0 acquitt$ on ! gr\nd t he 0
 int]pret+ ! feel+s ( ! p4  ,uruguay is 
a progressive republic1 ) m ?an a ?\s&  
miles ( railway4 ,on ^! l9es ! coa*es   
are v palatial4 ,! l>g] "p ( ! coa*1    
made to seat fifty-two pass5g]s1 is =   
smok]s1 ! small] comp>tm5t1 accommodat+ 
sixte51 is = non-smok]s1 ?us rev]s+ our 
own practice4 ,outside ! h>bor ( !      
capital a great sea-wall is be+ erect$1 
at trem5d\s co/1 to facilitate %ipp+1 & 
,uruguay is c]ta9ly a c\ntry ) a great  
future4  ,! capital city occupies a     
comm&+ position at ! m\? ( ! great e/u>y
 ( ! ,rio de la ,plata2 its docks are   
l>ge & mod]n1 & palatial /eam]s ( ! v   
f9e/ types br+ x 9 daily communication )
 ,bu5os ,ayres4 ,! ,legislative ,palace 
is "o ( ! f9e/ gov]nm5t build+s 9 ! _w4 

,! great ,solis ,!atre1 :]e ,patti &    
,b]nh>dt h bo? appe>$1 cov]s ne>ly two  
acres ( gr\nd1 seats ?ree ?\s& p & co/  
?ree million doll>s to build4 ,! sanit>y
 conditions & wat] supply are s p]fect t
 few] p die 9 ?is city1 9 proportion to 
its size1 ?an 9 any o!r l>ge city ( !   
_w4  ,! ,p>liam5t ( ,uruguay has rec5tly
 vot$ t all privileges hi!rto grant$ to 
p>ticul> religi\s bodies %all be        
abrogat$1 t ! army %all n take "p 9     
religi\s c]emonies1 t army *apla9s %all 
be dismiss$1 t ! national flag %all n be
 l[]$ be=e any prie/ or religi\s symbol4
 ,s ano!r /ate cuts loose f ,rome6  ,!  
climate ( ! c\ntry is su* t grapes1     
apricots1 pea*es1 & _m o!r fruits gr[ to
 p]fection4 ,its curr5cy is on a m /able
 basis ?an t ( any o!r ,spani% republic1
 & its doll> is actually wor? #ajb c5ts4
 ,! immigrants p\r+ into ,uruguay h run 
up to ov] #bj1jjj a ye>2 ! population   
has increas$ m ?an #ajj p] c5t 9 #ab    
ye>s2 s we %all he> f ,uruguay 9 com+   
ye>s m ?an we h done 9 ! pa/4           

,,*apt] ,,xiii4  ,,sket*es ,,( ,a       
,,horseback ,,ride ,,?r\gh ,,!          
,,republic4   ,i ,,cross ,,! ,,silv]    
,,riv]4  ,i left ,bu5os ,ayres =        
,uruguay 9 an ,italian polacca4 ,we     
weigh$ an*or "o ,sunday aft]noon1 & z ! 
breeze 0 favorable1 ! :ite sails1 held  
up by /rong ropes ( ra:ide1 soon waft$ u
 away f ! l&4 ,we sail$ ?r\gh a fleet ( 
%ips f all p>ts ( ! _w1 an*or$ 9 !      
/ream1 dis*>g+ & load+ c>goes4 ,!re1 j  
arriv$1 0 an ,italian emigrant %ip ) a  
?\s& p on bo>d1 :o _h come to />t life  
afre%4 ,!re 0 ! l>ge ,briti% /eam]1 ) h]
 clatt]+ w9dlass1 hoi/+ on bo>d live    
bullocks f b>ges moor$ alongside4 ,!    
animals are rais$ up by means ( a /rong 
rope ti$ ar\nd _! horns1 & z ! %ip rocks
 on ! swell !y dangle 9 mid-air4 ,:5 a  
favorable mom5t arrives !y are quickly  
dropp$ on to ! deck1 completely /upefi$ 
by _! a]ial flight4  ,z d>kness fell1 ! 
w9d dropp$1 & we lay rock+ on ! bosom ( 
! riv]1 ) only ! tw9kl+ lights ( !      
,arg5t9e coa/ to rem9d u ( ! solid _w4  

,! %oreless riv] 01 h[ev]1 popul\s )    
craft ( all rigs1 = ?is is ! highway to 
! great int]ior1 & "s ( !m 7 b\nd to    
,cuyab1 #b1fjj miles 9 ! he>t ( !       
cont95t4 ,dur+ ! night a %ip on fire 9 !
 (f+ lit up ) great vividness ! sil5t   
wa/e ( wat]s1 & z ! flames leap$ up !   
rigg+1 ! sight 0 v gr&4 ,ow+ to calms & 
light w9ds1 our passage 0 a sl[ "o1 & ,i
 0 n sorry :5 at la/ ,i c\ld say        
good-bye to ! ,italians & _! oily food4 
,?ree nights & two days is a long "t to 
sp5d 9 cross+ a riv]4  ,,montevideo4    
,montevideo1 ! capital ( ,uruguay1 is "o
 ( ! h&some/ cities 9 all ,am]ica1 nor? 
or s\?4 ,its population is ov] #cej1jjj4
 ,x is "o ( ! cleane/ & be/ laid-out    
cities on ! cont95t2 x has broad1 airy  
/reets & a g5]al look ( prosp]ity4 ,:at 
impresses ! newcom] mo/ is ! milit>y    
display ev]y:]e se54 ,s5try boxes1 9    
front ( :i* d>k-sk9n$ soldi]s /rut1 seem
 to be at almo/ e corn]4 ,al?\gh        
,uruguay has a /&+ army ( "u #c1ejj m51 
yet gold-braid$ (fic]s are to be met )  

on e /reet4 ,!re are tw5ty-"o g5]als on 
active s]vice1 & _m m liv+ on p5sion4 ,m
 important p]sonages ?an ^! m5 assume to
 be c\ld n be met ) 9 any "p ( ! _w4  ,!
 armies ( mo/ ( ^! republics are divid$ 
into sections be>+ su* blasphem\s titles
 z ,division ( ! ,son ( ,god1 ,division 
( ! ,good ,%eph]d1 ,division ( ! ,holy  
,lanc]s ( ,dea? & ,soldi]s ( ! ,bless$  
,he>t ( ,m>y4 ,^! are (t5 plac$ "u !    
sceptre ( ! ,sacr$ ,he>t ( ,jesus z !   
national emblem4  ,boys ( sev5 & old m5 
( sev5ty /& on ! sidewalks sell+ lott]y 
tickets2 & ! prie/1 ) black beav] hat1 !
 brim ( :i* has a diamet] ( two feet1 is
 always to be se54 ,"o ( ^! prie/s met a
 late devotee1 b n[ a foll[] ( ,*ri/    
?r\gh mission>y ef=t1 & said3 ,good     
morn+1 ,daught] ( ! ,evil ,"o6 ,good    
morn+1 ,fa!r1 %e repli$4  ,! cemet]y is 
"o ( ! f9e/ on ! cont95t1 & is well wor?
 a visit4 ,v few ( ,montevideo's dead   
are buri$4 ,! c(f9s ( ! ri* are z9c-l9$1
 & provid$ ) a glass 9 ! lid4 ,all      
caskets are plac$ 9 ni*es 9 ! high wall 

:i* surr\nds ! cemet]y4 ,^! mural ni*es 
are six or eight feet deep 9 ! wall1 &  
ea* "o has a m>ble tablet = ! "n ( !    
deposit$ "o4 ,by means ( a l>ge portable
 ladd] & elevator comb9$1 ! c(f9s are   
rais$ f ! gr\nd4 ,at anniv]s>ies ( !    
dea? ! tomb is fill$ ) fl[]s1 & c&les   
are lit inside1 :ile a wrea? is hung on 
! door4 ,a favorite cu/om is to att5d   
mass on ,sunday morn+1 !n visit !       
cemet]y1 & sp5d ! aft]noon at !         
bull-fights4  ,,native ,,h\ses ,,&      
,,habits4  ,uruguay is ess5tially a     
pa/oral c\ntry1 & ! f9e/ animals ( ,s\? 
,am]ica are !re rais$4 ,x is said t     
,uruguay's pa/ure l&s c\ld fe$ all !    
cattle ( ! _w1 & %eep gr[ fat at #ej to 
! acre4 ,9 #ahhi1 :5 ,i fir/ w5t !re1   
!re 7 ?irty-two millions ( horn$ cattle 
graz+ on a ?\s& hills4 ,liebig's fam\s  
e/abli%m5ts at ,fray ,b5tos1 two hundr$ 
miles nor? ( ,montevideo1 employs six   
hundr$ m51 & kills "o ?\s& bullocks a   
day4  ,uruguay has "s good roads1 & ! l&
 is wire-f5c$ 9 all directions4 ,! riv]s

 are cross$ on l>ge flat-bottom$ boats  
call$ balsas4 ,^! are w>p$ across by a  
*a91 & c>ry z _m z t5 m5 & horses 9 "o  
trip4 ,! roads are 9 _m places ?ickly   
/rewn ) bones ( dead animals1 dropp$ by 
! way1 & ^! are pick$ clean by !        
vultures4 ,no soon] does an animal lie  
d[n to die ?an1 /ream+ out ( ! inf9ite  
space1 :i* a mom5t be=e has be5 a       
lifeless _w ( blue e!r1 !re come l9es ( 
vultures1 & soon :ite bones are all t   
are left4  ,on ! f5ce-po/s "o sees _m   
ne/s ( ! cas]a 7h\sebuild]7 bird1 made (
 mud4 ,^! h a dome-%ap$ ro(1 & are      
divid$ by a p>tition inside into *amb] &
 ante-*amb]4 ,by ! roadside are hovels (
 ! natives n a tw5tie? "p s well-built  
or ra9-tight4 ,fleas are s num]\s 9 ^!  
huts t sometimes1 aft] sp5d+ a night 9  
"o1 x w\ld h be5 impossible to place a  
five-c5t piece on any "p ( my body t _h 
n be5 bitt5 by !m4 ,scorpions come out (
 ! wood !y burn on ! e>!n floor1 & mon/]
 cockroa*es nibble y\r toes at night4 ,!
 ?ick1 hot grass ro(s ( ! ran*es h>bor  

c5tip$es1 :i* drop on y\r face z y      
sleep1 & bite al>m+ly4 ,^! _m-legg$     
creatures gr[ to ! l5g? ( eight or n9e  
in*es1 & run to & fro ) great spe$4     
,well might ! little girl1 on see+ a    
c5tip$e = ! fir/ "t1 ask3 ,:at is t     
que]-look+ ?+1 ) ab\t a million legs8   
,johnny wisely repli$3 ,t's a mill5nium4
 ,x's some?+ l a c5t5nial1 only its has 
m legs4  ,aft] va9 attempts to sleep1 y 
rise1 & may see ! good wife clean+ h]   
only plate = y by rubb+ x on h] greasy  
hair & wip+ x ) ! bottom ( h] *emise4   
,ugh6 ,proce$+ on ! j\rney1 x is a      
common sight to see ?ree or f\r little  
birds sitt+ on ! backs ( ! horn$ cattle 
gett+ _! breakfa/1 :i* ,i hope !y reli% 
bett] ?an ,i (t5 did4  ,a ,,wake1 ,,&   
,,h[ ,,to ,,get ,,to ,,heav54  ,dur+ my 
j\rney ,i 0 ask$3 ,w\ld ,i l to g to !  
wake held t night at ! next h\se1 ?ree  
miles away8 ,aft] supp]1 horses 7 saddl$
 up & away we gallop$4 ,q a numb] _h    
already ga!r$ !re4 ,we f\nd ! dead man  
ly+ on a c\ple ( %eepsk9s1 9 ! c5tre ( a

 mud-wall$ & mud-floor$ room4 ,no       
useless c(f9 enclos$ 8 brea/1 nor 0 he  
w\nd 9 ei!r %eet or %r\d4 ,!re he lay1  
fully attir$1 ev5 to 8 %oes4 ,f\r tall[ 
c&les light$ up ! gloom1 & ^! 7 plac$ at
 8 head & feet4 ,8 clammy h&s 7 rev]5tly
 fold$ ov] 8 brea/1 :il/ entw9$ 9 8 f+]s
 0 a bronze cross & ros>y1 t ,/4 ,pet]1 
see+ 8 devotion1 might1 )\t que/ion+1   
admit him to a bett] _w4 ,! sc5e 0 weird
 beyond description4 ,outside1 ! w9d    
moan$ a sad dirge2 great bats & black   
mo?s1 ! size ( birds1 flitt$ ab\t 9 !   
midnight d>kness4 ,^!1 ev] & anon1 made 
_! way inside & ext+ui%$ ! c&les1 :i*   
flick]$ & dripp$ z !y fitfully %one on !
 %runk5 features ( ! corpse4 ,he _h be5 
a reprobate & an assass91 b1 luckily =  
him1 a pi\s woman1 n wi%+ to see him die
 9 8 s9s1 _h spr9kl$ ,holy ,wat] on him4
 ,! said ,elixir ( ,life _h be5 br\ght  
eighty miles1 & 0 kept 9 h] h\se to use 
only 9 extreme cases4 ,! poor woman _h  
paid ! price ( a c[ = ! bottle ( wat]1 b
 ! prie/ _h decl>$ t x 0 an effectual   

s\l-sav]1 & !y nev] d\bt$ its efficacy4 
,ar\nd ! corpse 0 a ?rong ( wom51 & !y  
all *att]$ z wom5 are apt to d4 ,! m51  
/&+ ar\nd ! door1 talk$ ( _!            
horse-races1 fights or any?+ else4 ,= "s
 h\rs ,i he>d no allusion to ! dead1 b z
 ! night wore on ! prophetess ( ! p came
 =?4  ,if my adv5t among !m _h caus$ a  
/ir1 ! entrance ( ?is old woman caus$ a 
bu/le2 ev5 ! dead man seem$ to salute   
h]1 or 0 x only my imag9ation--= ,i 0 9 
a /rangely s5sitive mood--t pictur$ x8  
,z %e sl[ly approa*$1 lean+ heavily on a
 r\gh1 ?ick /aff1 all ! females pres5t  
b5t _! knees4 ,n[ pray]s 7 go+ to be    
(f]$ up = ! dead1 & ! visible woman 0 to
 act z int]c$] ) ! invisible "o 9 heav54
 ,aft] be+ assi/$ to h] knees1 ! old    
woman1 9 a crack$1 yet l\d1 voice1      
began4 ,santa ,m>ia1 ruega por nosotros1
 ahora1 y en la hora de nue/ra mu]te6   
7,holy ,m>y pray = u n[1 & 9 ! h\r ( our
 dea?67 ,?is 0 respond$ to ) _m         
ge/iculations & mak+ ( crosses by !     
num]\s females ar\nd h]4 ,! pray]s 7 _m 

& long1 & mu/ h la/$ p]haps an h\r2 !n  
all arose1 & mt & cig>s 7 s]v$4 ,m5 &   
wom51 ev5 boys & girls1 smok$ ! :ole    
night ?r\gh1 until ar\nd ! ,dep>t$ 0    
no?+ b blui% cl\ds4  ,! natives are s   
fond ( wakes t :5 dea?s d n occur )     
great frequ5cy1 ! bones ( gr&ma are dug 
up1 & %e is pray$ & smok$ ov] once m4 ,!
 digg+ up ( ! dead is (t5 a simple      
matt]1 = ! corpse is frequ5tly j c>ri$  
into ! bu%1 & !re cov]$ ) prickly       
bran*es4  ,,! ,,snake',s ,,hi/ory4  ,i  
met ) a snake1 ( a :iti% color1 t appe>$
 to h two heads4 ,nev] be+ able to      
closely exam9e ?is /range reptile1 ,i _c
 positively affirm t x possesses ! two  
heads1 b ! natives repeat$ly affirm$ to 
me t x does1 & c]ta9ly bo? ends are1 or 
seem to be1 exactly alike4 ,9 ! ,book ( 
,g5esis ! s]p5t is describ$ z a bea/1 b 
= its temptation ( ,eve x 0 condemn$ to 
crawl on its belly & become a reptile4  
,a /range belief obta9s among ! p t all 
s]p5ts mu/ n only be kill$1 b put into a
 fire4 ,if !re is none lit1 !y w k9dle  

"o on purpose1 = x mu/ be burn$4 ,z !   
out] sk9 comes (f1 x is decl>$1 ! f\r   
legs1 n[ "u x1 c be di/9ctly se54  ,a   
,,girl',s ,,new ,,bir? ,,&              
,,translation4  ,at ,r9con ,i held a    
s]ies ( meet+s 9 a mud hut4 ,m5 & wom51 
) num]\s *ildr51 us$ to ga!r on         
horseback an h\r be=e ! "t = op5+4 ,a   
little girl always br\ght h] ?ree-legg$ 
/ool & squatt$ 9 front ( me4 ,! re/     
appropriat$ tree-trunks & bullocks'     
skulls4 ,! girl ref]r$ to li/5$ to !    
,gospel /ory z ?\gh h] life dep5d$ ^u x1
 z inde$ x did6 ,:5 at ,r9con only a    
%ort "t1 ! *ild desir$ me to tea* h] h[ 
to pray1 & %e clasp$ h] h&s rev]5tly4   
,w\ld ,jesus save me8 %e ask$4 ,did ,he 
die = me--me8 ,w ,he save me n[8 ,! girl
 believ$1 & ent]$ at once into ! family 
( ,god4  ,"o day a man on horseback1    
te>s /ream+ d[n 8 *eeks1 gallop$ up to  
my hut4 ,x 0 h] fa!r4 ,8 girl 0 dead4   
,%e _h gone into ! =e/1 &1 feel+ hungry1
 _h eat5 "s b]ries2 !y 7 poison\s1 & %e 
_h come home to die4 ,w\ld ,i bury h]8  

,%ortly aft]w>ds ,i rode ov] to ! hovel 
:]e %e _h liv$4 ,await+ me 7 !          
brok5-he>t$ p>5ts4 ,a groc]y box _h be5 
secur$1 & ?is rude c(f9 0 cov]$ ) p9k   
cotton4 ,f\r horses 7 yok$ 9 a two-:eel$
 c>t1 ! p>5ts sat on ! casket1 & ,i     
foll[$ on horseback to ! ne>e/ cemet]y1 
sixte5 miles away4 ,!re1 9 a little     
enclosure1 we l[]$ ! girl into h] la/   
e>?ly re/+-place1 9 ! sure & c]ta9 hope 
( a glori\s resurrection4 ,%e _h liv$ 9 
a h\se :]e a c['s hide s]v$ = a door1 b 
%e _h n[ ent]$ ! pe>ly gates4 ,! floor (
 h] late home 0 "m e>?2 :at a *ange to  
be walk+ ! /reets ( gold6 ,"s day1 aft] 
life's fitful fev]1 ,i %all meet h]     
aga91 n a poor1 ragg$ half-bre$ girl1 b 
glorifi$1 & clo!d 9 ,8 righte\sness4    
,,h[ ,i ,,did ,,n ,,lose ,,my ,,eyes4   
,"o day ,i 0 cross+ a riv]1 kneel+ on my
 horse's back1 :5 he gave a lur* & ?rew 
me into ! wat]4 ,ga9+ ! bank1 & be+ q   
alone1 ,i /ripp$ (f my wet clo!s & wait$
 = ! sun to dry !m4 ,! day 0 hot &      
sultry1 &1 feel+ tir$1 ,i cov]$ myself  

up ) ! long grass & w5t to sleep4 ,h[   
long ,i lay ,i _c tell1 b sudd5ly wak+  
up1 ,i f\nd to my al>m t sev]al l>ge    
vultures1 hav+ ?\ght me dead1 7         
contemplat+ me z _! next meal6 ,_h my   
sleep cont9u$ a few mom5ts long]1 !     
rapaci\s birds w\ld h pick$ my eyes out1
 z !y inv>iably d be=e te>+ up _!       
victim4 ,all ov] ! c\ntry ^! birds      
ab\nd1 & ,i h c\nt$ ?irty & =ty te>+ up 
a liv+1 quiv]+ animal4 ,sometimes1 =    
m]cy's sake1 ,i h alight$ & put ! suff]+
 bea/ out ( fur!r pa94 ,be=e ,i got away
 !y h be5 fight+ ov] x aga9 9 _! ha/e to
 suck ! he>t's blood4  ,a ,,ba*elor     
,,rabbit4  ,! pe/ ( ,au/ralia is !      
rabbit1 b1 /range to say1 ,i nev] f\nd  
"o 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,9 _! place is !     
equally de/ructive visca*a or prairie   
dog--a mu* l>g] animal1 probably ?ree or
 f\r times ! size1 hav+ v l[1 broad     
head1 little e>s1 & ?ick1 bri/l+ :isk]s4
 ,8 coat is gray & :ite1 ) a mixture (  
black4 ,to all appe>ance ?is is a       
f]oci\s bea/1 ) 8 two front tusk-l tee?1

 ab\t f\r in*es long1 b he is p]fectly  
h>mless4 ,! visca*a makes 8 home1 l !   
rabbit1 by burr[+ 9 ! gr\nd1 :]e he     
rema9s dur+ daylight4 ,! faculty (      
acquisition 9 ^! animals mu/ be l>ge1 = 
9 _! nightly trips !y ga!r & br+ to !   
m\? ( _! burr[ any?+ & ev]y?+ !y c      
possibly move4 ,bones1 manure1 /ones &  
fea!rs are "h collect$1 & if ! travell] 
accid5tally dropp$ 8 wat*1 knife or     
h&k]*ief1 x w\ld be f\nd & c>ri$ to     
adorn ! visca*a's doorway1 if ^? animals
 7 any:]e ne>4  ,! lady read] w be %ock$
 to le>n t ! head ( ! visca*a family1   
probably copy+ a bad example f ! o/ri*1 
8 neighbor1 is also v unamiable ) 8     
bett] half1 & inhabits ba*elor's qu>t]s1
 :i* he keeps all to himself1 away f 8  
family4 ,! food ( ?is /range dog-rabbit 
is roots1 & 8 p[]ful tee? are well fitt$
 to root !m up4 ,at ! m\? ( _! burr[s   
may (t5 be se5 little owls1 :i* h eject$
 ! orig9al own]s & !mselves tak5        
possession4 ,!y h a /rik+ly saucy look1 
& possess ! advantage ( be+ able to turn

 _! heads "r ar\nd :ile ! body rema9s   
immovable4 ,be+ ( an inquisitive nature1
 !y />e at e pass]-by1 & if ! travell]  
quietly walks ar\nd !m he w smile at !  
grotesque p[] !y h ( turn+ _! head4 ,:5 
a "y horse is especially sl[ 9 le>n+ !  
use ( ! re9s1 ,i h kn[n ! c[boy sme> !  
bridle ) ! bra9s ( ?is clev] bird1 t !  
owl's facility 9 turn+ might ?us be     
imp>t$ to x4  ,ano!r peculi> animal is !
 comadreka1 :i* resembles ! kang>oo 9 t 
x is provid$ ) a bag or p\* 9 :i* to    
c>ry its "y ones4 ,i h surpris$ ^!      
little animals 7= !y are only ( rabbit  
size7 ) _! "y play+ ar\nd !m1 & h se5 ! 
"m ga!r !m into h] p\* & scamp] away4   
,,dr9k+ ,,wat]1 ,,sa9ts ,,& ,,! ,,virg94
  ,9 ,uruguay x is ! cu/om = all1 on    
approa*+ a h\se1 to call out1 ,holy ,m>y
 ! ,pure6 & until ! inmate answ]s3      
,conceiv$ )\t s96 n a /ep f>!r mu/ be   
made by ! visitor4 ,at a hut :]e ,i     
call$ !re 0 a baby hang+ f ! wattle ro( 
9 a c['s hide1 & flies cov]$ ! little   
"o's eyes4 ,on go+ to ! well = a dr9k ,i

 saw t !re 0 a cat & a rat 9 ! wat]1 b !
 p 7 dr9k+ x6 ,:5 smallpox breaks out   
because ( su* unsanit>y conditions1 ,i h
 kn[n !m to c>ry ar\nd ! image ( ,/4    
,seba/ian1 t its div9e pres5ce might    
*ase away ! sickness4 ,! dress ( !      
,virg9 is (t5 borr[$ f ! *ur*1 & worn by
 ! wom51 t !y may pr(it by its heal+    
virtues4 ,a crucifix hung 9 ! h\se keeps
 away evil spirits4  ,! p 7 v religi\s1 
& no ra9 hav+ fall5 = five mon?s1 _h    
conclud$ to c>ry ar\nd a l>ge image ( ! 
,virg9 !y _h1 & %[ h] ! dry crops4 ,i   
rode on1 b did n get wet6  ,,no ,,ne$   
,,( ,,! ,,doctor ,,or ,,vet4  ,a poor   
girl got v sev]ely burnt1 & ! rem$y     
appli$ 0 a p\ltice ( ma%$ e>s ( visca*a4
 ,! burn did n heal1 & s a p\ltice (    
pig's dung 0 put on4 ,:5 we w5t to visit
 ! girl1 ! p said x 0 because !y _h come
 to our meet+s t ! girl did n get bett]4
 ,a lib]al cleans+1 foll[$ by ! use (   
boracic acid1 has heal$ ! w\nd4 ,ano!r  
case came "u our notice ( a woman :o    
suff]$ f a ga!r+ 9 ! e>1 & ! rem$y      

appli$ 0 a negro's curl fri$ 9 fat4  ,to
 cure animals ( disease !re are _m ways4
 ,mrs4 ,nieve boa/$ t1 by j say+ a few  
cabali/ic words ov] a sick c[1 %e c\ld  
heal x4 ,a *>m put on ! top ( !         
enclosure :]e ! animals are h]d$ w keep 
away sickness4 ,to cure a buck+ horse   
all t is necess>y is to pull out its    
eyebr[s & spit 9 its face4 ,let a lame  
horse /ep on a %eepsk91 cut out ! piece1
 & c>ry x 9 y\r pocket2 if ?is c't be   
done1 make a cross ) tufts ( grass1 & ! 
leg w heal4 ,= ord9>y sickness tie a    
dog's head ar\nd ! horse's neck4 ,if a  
horse has pa9s 9 ! /oma*1 let him smell 
y\r %irt4  ,a ,,race ,,= ,,in=mation4   
,uruguay is said to h av]ag$ a          
revolution e two ye>s = ne>ly a c5tury1 
s 9 times ( revolution>y di/urbance !   
y\ng] *ildr5 are (t5 set to wat* ! roads
 & give timely w>n+1 t ! fa!r or eld]   
bro!r may effect an escape4 ,! said     
p]sons may !n m\nt _! fleete/ horse & be
 out ( sight ere ! recruit+ s]geant     
arrives4 ,be+ "o day p]plex$1 & 9 d\bt  

:e!r ,i 0 on my "r road1 ,i made t[>ds a
 boy ,i _h descri$ "s di/ance away1 to  
ask him4 ,no soon] did ! y\? cat* sight 
( me ?an he set (f at a long gallop away
 f me2 :y1 ,i c\ld n tell1 z !y are     
g5]ally s int]e/$ at ! sight ( a /rang]4
 ,det]m9$ n to be outdone1 & feel+ sure 
t )\t directions ,i c\ld n safely       
cont9ue ! j\rney1 ,i put spurs to my    
horse & tri$ to ov]take him4 ,z ,i      
quick5$ my pace he look$ back1 &1 see+  
me ga9 ^u him1 urg$ 8 horse to its utmo/
 spe$4 ,d[n hill & up hill1 ?r\gh grass 
& mud & wat]1 ! race cont9u$4 ,a %eepsk9
 fell f 8 saddle1 b he he$$ x n z he w5t
 plung+ =w>d4 ,human be+s 9 ^? latitudes
 7 v few1 & if ,i did n cat* him ,i     
might be totally lo/ = days2 s ,i w5t   
clatt]+ on ov] 8 %eepsk91 & !n ov] 8    
wood5 saddle1 ! fall ( :i* only made 8  
horse give a fre% plunge =w>d z he lay  
on its neck4 ,?us we rac$ = at lea/ ?ree
 miles1 until1 tir$ out & brea?less1 ,i 
gave up 9 despair4  ,conclud+ t my      
fleet-foot$ b unamiable "y fri5d _h     

und\bt$ly "s place 9 view1 ,i cont9u$ 9 
! same direction1 b at a m respectable  
pace4 ,%ortly aft]w>ds ,i arriv$ at a v 
small hut1 built ( wov5 grass & re$s1   
:i* ,i presum$ 0 8 home4 ,mak+ = ! op5  
door1 ,i clapp$ my h&s1 b receiv$ no    
answ]4 ,! hut 0 c]ta9ly inhabit$--( t ,i
 saw abundant signs--b :]e 7 ! p8 ,i d>e
 n get d[n f my horse2 t is an insult no
 native w\ld =give2 s ,i sl[ly walk$    
ar\nd ! h\se1 clapp+ my h&s & %\t+ at ! 
top ( my voice4 ,j z ,i 0 mak+ ! circuit
 = ! ?ird "t1 ,i descri$ ano!r & a l>g] 
h\se1 hidd5 9 ! trees "s di/ance away1 &
 ?i!r ,i =?) b5t my /eps4 ,!re ,i le>n$ 
t ,i _h be5 tak5 = a recruit+ s]geant1 &
 ! inhabitants _h hidd5 !mselves :5 !   
boy gallop$ up ) ! message ( my approa*4
  ,i ,,f9d ,,diamonds4    ,= "o %all    
grasp & "o resign4   ,"o dr9k life's    
rue1 & "o its w9e2   ,& ,god %all make !
 balance good4  ,encamp$ on ! banks ( ! 
,black ,riv]1 idly turn+ up ! soil ) !  
/ock ( my rid+-:ip1 ,i 0 />tl$ to f9d   
:at ,i believ$ to be real diamonds6     

,beautifully :ite1 transp>5t /ones !y 71
 &1 ris+ to exam9e !m closely 9 !       
sunlight1 ,i 0 m ?an ev] conv9c$ ( !    
ri*ness ( my f9d4 ,0 x possible t ,i _h 
unwitt+ly discov]$ a diamond field8     
,c\ld x be true t1 aft] ye>s ( h>d%ip1  
,i _h f\nd a =tune8 ,i 0 a ri* man--oh1 
! en*ant+ ?\ght6 ,no ne$ n[ to toil     
?r\gh scor*+ suns4 ,i c\ld live at ease4
 ,z ,i sat ) ! /ones gli/5+ 9 ! light   
be=e my eyes1 my bra9 grew fev]$4 ,leav+
 my hat & coat on ! gr\nd1 ,i ran t[>ds 
my horse1 &1 vault+ on 8 b>e back1      
wildly gallop$ to & fro1 t ! breezes    
might cool my fev]$ head4 ,ri*8 ,oh1 h[ 
,i _h work$ & /riv56 ,life _h hi!rto be5
 a h>d fight4 ,:5 ,i _h ga!r$ toge!r a  
few doll>s1 ,i _h be5 pro/rat$ ) mal>ial
 or "s o!r fev]1 & !y _h fl[n4 ,aft] two
 or ?ree mon?s ( en=c$ idl5ess ,i _h _h 
to />t ! battle ( life afre% ) dim9i%$  
funds4 ,n[ ! pa/ 0 dead2 ,i c\ld re/ f  
/rife4 ,re/6 ,h[ sweet x s\nd$ z ,i     
repeat$ al\d ! preci\s ^w1 & ! di/ant   
e*oes br\ght back ! ^w1 ,re/6  ,i 0     

awak5$ f my day dreams by be+ ?r[n f my 
horse6 ,hope = ! future _h s tak5       
possession ( me t ! pres5t 0 =gott54 ,i 
_h n se5 ! caves ( ! prairie dog1 b my  
horse _h giv5 a sudd5 />t aside to avoid
 !m1 & ,i f\nd myself lick+ ! du/4 ,ba!r
 a humiliat+ position = a man to be 9 :o
 _h j f\nd unlimit$ weal?2 ,some:at     
subdu$1 ,i made my way back to my       
solit>y encampm5t4  ,well1 h[ %all ,i   
conclude ?is %ort b pregnant *apt] ( my 
life8 ,suffice x to say t my idol 0     
%att]$6 ,! /ones 7 f\nd to be ( little  
wor?4    ,! fl[] t smiles to-day1       
,to-morr[ dies2   ,all t we wi% to /ay  
,tempts1 & !n flies4  ,a ,,man ,,) ,,two
 ,,noses ,,& ,,two ,,m\?s4  ,i 0 lo/ "o 
day1 & _h be5 sitt+ 9 ! grass = an h\r  
or m wond]+ :at ,i %\ld d1 :5 ! s\nd (  
gallop+ ho(s broke ! sil5ce4 ,on look+  
ar\nd1 to my horror1 ,i saw a some?+    
seat$ on a fi]y horse te>+ t[>ds me6    
,:at c\ld x be8 ,0 x human8 ,c\ld !     
/range-look+ be+ :o sudd5ly re9$ up 8   
horse be=e me be a man8 ,a man surely1 b

 possess+ two noses1 two m\?s1 & two    
h>e-lips4 ,a hide\s sight6 ,i %udd]$ z  
,i look$ at him4 ,8 left eye 0 9 !      
temple1 & he turn$ x full ^u me1 :ile ) 
! o!r he seem$ to glance t[>d ! knife 9 
8 belt4 ,:5 he rode up ,i _h salut$ him1
 b he did n return ! recognition4 ,feel+
 sure t ! c\ntry mu/ be well kn[n to    
him1 ,i (f]$ to rew>d him if he w\ld act
 z my guide4 ,! man kept 8 gleam+ eye   
fix$ ^u me1 b answ]$ n a ^w4 ,beg9n+ to 
look at ! matt] 9 r a s]i\s light1 ,i   
m\nt$ my horse1 :5 he grunt$ at me 9 an 
un9telligible way1 :i* %[$ me pla9ly t  
he 0 )\t ! p[] ( spee*4 ,he turn$ 9 !   
direction ,i _h ask$ him to take1 & we  
/>t$ (f at a breakneck spe$1 :i* 8 fi]y 
horse kept up4 ,i _c say he foll[$ 8    
nose1 or ! read] might ask me :i* nose1 
b he l$ me 9 a /raight l9e to an em95ce1
 f :5ce he po9t$ out ! e/ancia ,i 0     
seek+4 ,! h\se 0 /ill di/ant1 yet ,i 0 n
 sorry to "p ) my /range guide1 :o seem$
 dis9cl9$ to conduct me fur!r4 ,i gave  
him 8 fee1 & he grunt$ 8 ?anks & left me

 to pursue my j\rney m leisurely4 ,a hut
 ,i came to _h be5 /ruck by lightn+1 & a
 woman & h] *ild _h be5 buri$ 9 !       
debris4 ,inquir+ ! p>ticul>s1 ,i 0 in=m$
 t ! woman 0 h]self to blame = ! disa/]4
 ,! sa9ts1 !y told me1 h a p>ticul>     
av]sion to ! ombu tree1 & ?is d>+ ,eve  
_h built h] h\se ne> "o4 ,! sa9ts _h    
tak5 spite at ?is act ( bravado1 &      
de/roy$ bo? "m & daught]4 ,moral3 ,he$ !
 sa9ts4  ,a ,,fleet-,,foot$ ,,de]4  ,"o 
day an old man s]i\sly in=m$ me t 9 ^?  
p>ts !re 0 a de] :i* nei!r he nor any   
o!r "o _h be5 able to cat*4 ,l !        
,siamese tw9s1 x 0 two live specim5s 9  
"o4 ,:5 ,i ask$ :y x 0 impossible to    
cat* ! animal1 he in=m$ me t x _h eight 
legs ) :i* to run4 ,f\r ( ! legs came   
out ( ! back1 &1 :5 tir$ ) us+ ! f\r l[]
 ones1 x j turn$ ov] & ran ) ! upp] set4
 ,i did n see ?is freak1 s add ! salt to
 y\r ta/e1 ,o read]4  ,i ,,sleep ,,) ,,!
 ,,rats4  ,hospitality is a m>k$ &      
beautiful feature ( ! ,uruguayan p4 ,at 
:atev] "t ,i arriv$ at a h\se1 al?\gh a 

/rang] & a =eign]1 ,i 0 mo/ he>tily     
receiv$ by ! inmates4 ,on only "o       
occasion1 :i* ,i w "h relate1 0 ,i      
grudg+ly accommodat$1 & t 0 by a        
,brazilian liv+ on ! fronti]4 ,! hot sun
 _h ru?lessly %one on me all day z ,i   
wad$ ?r\gh ! long arr[ grass t rea*$ up 
to my saddle4 ,! scor*+ rays1 pitiless 9
 _! int5sity1 seem$ to take ! en]gy f   
ev]y?+ liv+4 ,all animate creation 0    
p>alyz$4 ,! rel5tless ball ( fire 9 !   
heav5s1 p\r+ d[n l molt5 brass1 appe>$  
to be try+ to set ! _w on fire2 & ,i lay
 utt]ly exhau/$ on my horse's neck1 half
 expect+ to see all k9dl$ 9 "o mighty   
blaze6 ,i _h drunk ! hot1 putrid wat] ( 
! holl[s1 :i* did n seem to qu5* my ?ir/
 any1 b p]haps did help to keep me f    
dry+ up & bl[+ away4 ,my tongue 0 p>*$ &
 my lips dri$ toge!r4 ,=tunately1 ,i _h 
a v quiet horse1 & :5 ,i c\ld no long]  
be> ! sun's burn+ rays ,i got d[n = a   
few mom5ts & crept "u him4  ,%elt] !re 0
 none4 ,! copi\s draughts ( evil-smell+ 
wat] ,i _h drunk 9 my rag+ ?ir/ br\ght  

on nausea1 & x 0 only by =ce ( w t ,i   
kept myself f fall+1 :5 on an em95ce ,i 
joyfully sight$ ! ,brazilian e/ancia4   
,hope !n reviv$ 9 me4 ,my kn[+ horse _h 
se5 ! h\se be=e me1 & )\t any guidance  
made /raight t[>ds x at a quick] pace4  
,well he knew t h\ses 9 ^? desolate     
wa/es 7 too f> ap>t to be pass$ unhe$$  
by1 & ,i ?or\ghly concurr$ 9 8 wisdom4  
,z ,i drew up be=e ! lonely place my    
tongue refus$ to %\t ,ave ,m>ia1 b ,i   
clapp$ my p]spir+ h&s1 & soon _h !      
satisfaction ( he>+ foot/eps )94        
,visions ( %ade & ( meat & dr9k & re/   
float$ be=e my eyes :5 ,i saw ! door    
op5$4 ,a coal-black face peep$ out1 :i*1
 9 a crack$1 brok5 voice1 ,i address$1  
ask+ ! privilege to dism\nt4 ,horror (  
horrors1 ,i _h n ev5 be5 answ]$ ere !   
door 0 %ut aga9 9 my face6 ,get d[n )\t 
p]mission ,i d>e n4 ,! h\se 0 a l>ge    
edifice1 built ( r\gh1 undress$ /ones1 &
 _h a ?ick1 high wall ( ! same mat]ial  
all ar\nd4  ,7 ! inmates fi5ds t !y let 
me sit !re1 kn[+ well t !re 0 no o!r    

habitation )9 miles8 ,z ! m9utes sl[ly  
l5g!n$ out1 & ! door rema9$ clos$1 my   
spirits sank l[] & l[]4 ,aft] a sil5ce (
 ?irty-five m9utes1 ! man aga9 made 8   
appe>ance1 &1 com+ "r out ?is "t1 />$ me
 ?r\gh & ?r\gh4 ,aft] ?is close scrut9y1
 :i* seem$ to satisfy him1 b elicit$ no 
response to a fur!r appeal f me1 he w5t 
to an outly+ build+1 &1 br++ a /rong    
hide lasso1 ti$ x ar\nd my horse's neck4
 ,n until t 0 securely fa/5$ did he     
invite me to dism\nt4 ,presum+ ! lasso 0
 l5t me to tie out my horse1 ,i l$ him  
to ! back ( ! h\se4 ,:5 ,i return$1 my  
/range1 unwill+ ho/ 0 aga9 gone1 s ,i   
lay d[n on a pile ( hides 9 ! %ade ( !  
wall1 &1 utt]ly tir$ out1 ) visions (   
banquets float+ be=e my eyes1 ,i dropp$ 
(f to sleep4  ,p]haps an h\r aft]w>ds1  
,i awoke to f9d a woman1 black z night1 
b5d+ ov] me4 ,n see+ a visitor once 9   
?ree mon?s1 h] fem99e curiosity _h      
impell$ h] to come & exam9e me4 ,seem+ly
 m amiable ?an h] husb&1 %e spoke to me1
 b 9 a /range1 unmusical language1 :i*  

,i c\ld n und]/&2 & !n %e1 too1 left me4
 ,z ev5+ approa*$1 ano!r inmate ( ! h\se
 made 8 appe>ance4 ,he 01 ,i c\ld see1 (
 a diff]5t race1 &1 to my joy1 ,i f\nd t
 he spoke flu5tly 9 ,spani%4 ,conduct+  
me to ! a=em5tion$ ou?\se1 a place built
 ( canes & mud1 he told me t lat] on a  
piece ( meat w\ld be giv5 me1 & t ,i    
c\ld sleep on ! %eepsk9s4 ,i got ! meat1
 & ,i slept on ! sk9s4 ,fatigu$ z ,i 01 
,i pass$ a wret*$ night1 = doz5s ( huge 
rats ran ov] my body1 bit my h&s1 &     
scrat*$ my face1 ! :ole night long4     
,morn+ at la/ dawn$1 &1 ) ! fir/ /reaks 
( com+ day1 ,i saddl$ my horse1 &1 %ak+ 
! du/ ( ! ,brazilian e/ancia (f my feet1
 resum$ my j\rney4  ,,! ,,bur/+ ,,( ,a  
,,man4  ,a fri5d ( m9e came ^u an       
o/ri*'s ne/4 ,! bird 0 n ne>1 s1        
dism\nt+1 he pick$ up an egg & plac$ x 9
 an inside pocket ( 8 coat4 ,cont9u+ !  
j\rney1 ! egg 0 =gott51 & ! horse1      
gallop+ along1 sudd5ly tripp$ & fell4 ,!
 rid] 0 ?r[n to ! gr\nd1 :]e he lay     
/unn$4 ,?ree h\rs aft]w>ds consci\sness 

return$4 ,z 8 we>y eyes w&]$1 he notic$1
 ) horror1 t 8 *e/ & side 7 ?ickly      
besme>$4 ,) a cry ( despair1 he lay     
back1 groan+1 ,i h bur/6 ,! pres5ce ( ! 
egg he _h put 9 8 pocket _h q pass$ f 8 
m9d6  ,i ,,f9d ,a ,,lone ,,scotsman4    
,"o ev5+ aft] a long day's j\rney1 ,i   
rea*$ a h\se1 away ne> ! ,brazilian     
fronti]1 & 0 surpris$ inde$ to see t !  
own] 0 a real live ,scotsman4 ,great 0  
my a/oni%m5t & pleasure at receiv+ su* a
 w>m ,scot* welcome4 ,he 0 eighty miles 
away f any village--alone 9 ! m\nta9s--&
 at ! sight ( me he wept l a *ild4 ,nev]
 c ,i =get 8 angui% z he told me t 8    
belov$ wife _h di$ j a few days be=e1 & 
t he _h buri$ h]--!re 9 ! gl54 ,at !    
sight ( a ,briti% face he _h completely 
brok5 d[n2 b1 pull+ himself toge!r1 he  
conduct$ me ?r\gh into ! c\rty>d1 & !   
difficulty ( my j\rney 0 =gott5 z we sat
 d[n to ! ev5+ meal4  ,be+ anxi\s to he>
 ! /ory ( h] :o _h presid$ at 8 bo>d1 ,i
 bade him rec\nt to me ! sad            
circum/ances4  ,%e 0 a bonnie lassie1 & 

he _h lo'ed h] muckle4 ,!re !y _h liv$ =
 twelve ye>s1 %ut out f ! re/ ( ! _w1   
yet cont5t4 ,h& 9 h& !y _h toil$ 9 joy &
 sorr[1 :5 no ra9 fell = eight long     
mon?s1 & _! cattle di$2 or :5 increase 0
 good1 & flocks & h]ds fat4 ,side by    
side !y _h /ood alone 9 ! wild tangle ( 
! wild]ness4 ,& n[1 :5 ri*es _h be5     
ga!r$ & com=t c\ld be _h1 8 lassie _h   
left him1 & ,oh6 he grudg$ h] sair to ! 
l& o' ! leal6 ,be+ s f> remov$ f 8      
fell[s1 he _h be5 compell$ to p]=m !    
sacr$ (fices ( burial himself4 ,surr\nd$
 by k9d he>ts & lov+ sympa?iz]s1 x is   
sad inde$ to lose our lov$ ones4 ,b h[  
inexpressibly m sad x is :51 away 9     
lonel9ess1 a man digs ! cold clay tomb =
 all t is left ( 8 only joy6 ,:5 our de>
 ones sleep 9 ,god's acre surr\nd$ by   
o!rs x is sad4 ,b h[ mu* m he>tbreak+ is
 x to bury ! d>l+ wife 9 ! dep?s ( !    
m\nta9s alone1 :]e a /rong /one wall mu/
 be built ar\nd ! grave to keey ! wild  
bea/s f te>+ out ! rema9s6 ,only ^? :o h
 be5 s situat$ c picture ! solemnity (  

su* a sc5e4  ,at 8 urg5t reque/1 ,i     
promis$ ,i w\ld accompany him to !      
spot--sanctifi$ by 8 sorr[ & wat]$ by 8 
te>s--:]e he _h laid 8 de> "o4 ,e>ly !  
foll[+ morn+ a native s]vant saddl$ two 
horses1 & we rode 9 sil5ce t[>ds !      
hall[$ gr\nd4 ,9 ab\t ?irty m9utes we   
came 9 view ( ! quiet tomb4 ,encircl+ ! 
grave he _h built a high /one wall4 ,:5 
he sil5tly op5$ ! gate1 ,i saw t1 al?\gh
 all ! pa/ure outside 0 dry & )]$1 t on 
! m\nd 0 beautifully gre5 & fre%4 ,_h he
 br\ght wat] f 8 h\se1 = !re 0 none     
ne>]1 or 0 x wat]$ by 8 te>s8 ,8 greate/
 long+ 01 z he _h expla9$ to me !       
previ\s night1 t %e %\ld h a ,*ri/ian   
burial1 & if ,i w\ld read "s *apt] ov]  
h] grave he w\ld feel m cont5t1 he said4
 ,z ) b>$ heads we rev]5tly knelt on !  
m\nd1 ,i n[ compli$ ) 8 reque/4 ,!n1 = !
 fir/ "t 9 ! _w's hi/ory1 ! trees t     
surr\nd$ u li/5$ to ! ,*ri/ian doctr9e (
 a resurrection f ! dead4 ,x is s[n 9   
corruption1 x is rais$ 9 incorruption4  
,& ! leaves :isp]$ to ! m\nta9s beyond1 

:i* gave back ! words3 ,x is s[n a      
natural body1 x is rais$ a spiritual    
body4  ,nev] h ,i se5 a man s brok5 )   
grief z 0 t lone ,scotsman4 ,!re 7 no   
paid m\rn]s or idle sightse]s4 ,!re 0 no
 %[ ( sorr[ :ile ! he>t rema9$ indiff]5t
 & unt\*$4 ,x 0 ! spectacle ( a lone man
 :o _h buri$ 8 all & 0 left--    ,to l+]
 :5 ! sun ( life1    ,! beam t gilds its
 pa?1 is gone--   ,to feel ! a*+ bosom's
 /rife1    ,:5 ,hope is dead & ,love    
lives on4  ,z we knelt !re1 ,i spoke to 
! man ab\t salvation f s91 & unfold$    
,god's plan ( inh]itance & reunions 9 ! 
future life4 ,! ,"l gave ,8 bless+1 & ,i
 left him next day rejoic+ 9 ! ,*ri/ :o 
said3 ,i am ! resurrection & ! life2 he 
t believe? 9 ,me1 ?\gh he 7 dead1 yet   
%all he live4  ,z ! _w moves =w>d1 & man
 pu%es 8 way into ! wa/e places ( ! e>?1
 t lonely grave w be =gott54 ,popul\s   
cities w be built2 b ! doctr9e ! m\nta9s
 !n he>d %all live :5 ! gloomy y\? (    
,uruguay is =gott54  ,,! ,,^w ,,( ,,god 
,,contra/$ ,,) ,,t ,,( ,,! ,r4 ,c4      

,,*ur*4  ,?\ %alt wor%ip ! ,"l ?y ,god1 
& ,him only %alt ?\ s]ve4--,! ,*ri/4    
,m>y mu/ be ! fir/ object ( our wor%ip1 
,/4 ,joseph ! second4--,roman ,ca?olic  
,cate*ism4  ,?\ %alt n make unto !e any 
grav5 image or any lik5ess ( any?+ t is 
9 heav5 above1 or t is 9 ! e>? b5ea?1 or
 t is 9 ! wat] "u ! e>?4 ,?\ %alt n b[  
d[n ?yself to !m1 nor s]ve !m1 = ,i !   
,"l ?y ,god am a jeal\s ,god4  ,i mo/   
firmly ass]t t ! images ( ,*ri/ & ( ! "m
 ( ,god1 ev] virg91 & also ( ! o!r      
sa9ts1 are to be _h & reta9$1 & t due   
honor & v5]ation are to be giv5 to      
!m4--,cre$ ( ,pope ,pius ,,iv4  ,my     
glory w ,i n give to ano!r1 nei!r my    
praise to grav5 images4--,jehovah4  ,!  
sa9ts reign+ toge!r ) ,*ri/ are to be   
honor$ & invocat$2 444 !y (f] pray]s to 
,god = u444 _! relics are to be         
v5]at$4--,cre$ ( ,pope ,pius ,,iv4  ,=  
!re is "o ,god1 & "o m$iator betwe5 ,god
 & m5--! man ,*ri/ ,jesus4--,paul4  ,m>y
 is ev]y?+ 9 heav5 & e>?1 & we %\ld     
adore h]4--,! ,s\? ,am]ican ,prie/4  ,:o

 *ang$ ! tru? ( ,god into a lie &       
wor%ipp$ & s]v$ ! creature m ?an !      
,creator1 :o is bless$ = ev]4--,paul    
,all p[] 0 giv5 to h]4--,pet] ,damian1  
,c>d9al ( ,rome4  ,se>* !               
,scriptures4--,! ,*ri/4  ,all :o read ! 
,bible %\ld be /on$ to dea?4--,pope     
,innoc5t ,,iii4     ,,"p ,,vi4          
,,m>iolatry ,,& ,,image ,,wor%ip4       
,illu/ration3 ,,our ,,lady ,,(          
,,guadal\pe4 ,_m legacies are left to   
?is image4     ,,*apt] ,,xiv4           
,,m>iolatry ,,& ,,image ,,wor%ip4       
,be=e ! light ( ,*ri/ianity dawn$ on    
anci5t ,rome1 ! ,pan!on conta9$         
goddesses _m & gods _m4 ,*ief ( ^!      
deities to receive ! wor%ip ( ! p seems 
to h be5 ,diana ( ! ,ephesians1 a       
goddess ^: image fell d[n f ,jupit]2 !  
cele/ial ,v5us ( ,cor9?1 & ,isis1 si/]  
to ,osiris1 ! god ( ,egypt4 ,^! popul>  
images1 s univ]sally wor%ipp$1 7        
naturally ! av]sion ( ! e>ly foll[]s (  
,*ri/4 ,! primitive ,*ri/ians 7 possess$
 ) an unconqu]able repugnance to ! use &

 abuse ( images4 ,! ,jewi% disciples 7  
especially bitt] aga9/ any b ! triune   
,god receiv+ homage1 b1 by a sl[1 ?\gh  
inevitable1 progression1 ! honors ( !   
orig9al 7 transf]r$ to ! copy1 ! dev\t  
,*ri/ian pray$ be=e ! image ( a sa9t1 & 
! pagan rites ( g5uflexion1 lum9>ies1 & 
inc5se /ole into ! ,*ri/ian ,*ur*4      
,footnote3 ,gibbons' ,rome4  ,hav+      
,paul's ma/]ly epi/le to ! ,romans1 9 ! 
fir/ *apt] ( :i* he s di/9ctly portrays 
man's t5d5cy to *ange ! glory ( !       
uncorruptible ,god into an image made l 
to corruptible man1 & wor%ip & s]ve !   
creature m ?an ! ,creator1 :o is bless$ 
=ev]1 !y 7 c>eful to rememb] t ,god is a
 _s1 & to be wor%ipp$ only 9 _s4 ,pet]1 
9 8 epi/le to !m1 also wrote ( ! ,"o :om
 hav+ n se5 ye love4 ,z "t wore on1     
h[ev]1 ! orig9al incl9ation ( man to    
wor%ip a god he c\ld see & feel 7a trait
 se5 all d[n ! pages ( hi/ory7 ass]t$   
itself1 & ,m>y1 ! "m ( ,*ri/1 took !    
place 9 ! eye & ! he>t previ\sly occupi$
 by h] pr$ecessors4 ,footnote3 ,j z ?is 

"w goes to press1 ! dally pap]s ( ! _w  
ann\nce t ! olde/ idol ev] discov]$ has 
j be5 une>!d4 ,! idol is a goddess1 :o  
is hold+ an infant 9 h] arms4 ,be+ 9    
possession ( ! ,acts ( ! ,apo/les1 :i*  
pla9ly decl>es t ,m>y h]self met ) ! re/
 ( ! disciples = pray] & supplication1  
&1 kn[+ f ! f\r ,gospels t no wor%ip _h 
be5 at fir/ giv5 to h]1 ! innovation 0  
sl[ to f9d favor2 b1 9 ! ye> #dca1 !    
,c\ncil ( ,ephesus decid$ t ,m>y 0 equal
 ) ,god4  ,aft] ! ru9 ( paganism !y 7 no
 long] re/ra9$ by ! appreh5sion ( an    
odi\s p>allel 9 ! idol wor%ip4 ,symptoms
 ( deg5]acy may be obs]v$ ev5 9 ! fir/  
g5]ations :i* adopt$ & *]i%$ ?is        
p]nici\s innovation4 ,! wor%ip ( images 
_h /ol5 into ! ,*ur* by ins5sible       
degrees1 & ea* petty /ep 0 pleas+ to !  
sup]/iti\s m9d1 z productive ( com=t &  
innoc5t ( s94 ,b1 9 ! beg9n+ ( ! eigh?  
c5tury1 9 ! full magnitude ( ! abuse1 ! 
m timor\s ,greeks 7 awak5$ by an        
appreh5sion t1 "u ! mask ( ,*ri/ianity1 
!y _h re/or$ ! religion ( _! fa!rs4 ,!y 

he>d ) grief & impati5ce ! "n (         
'idolat]s1' ! incessant *>ge ( ! ,jews &
 ,mahometans1 :o d]iv$ f ! ,law & !     
,koran an immortal hatr$ to grav5 images
 & all ! relative wor%ip4 ,footnote3    
,gibbons' ,rome4  ,x %\ld be a mo/      
humiliat+ fact to ! ,romani/s to h x    
record$ z au!ntic hi/ory t ! great      
miracle-work+ ,madonna ( ,rome1 wor%ipp$
 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,/4 ,augu/9a1 is only a    
pagan /atue ( ! wick$ ,agripp9a ) h]    
infant ,n]o 9 h] arms4 ,cov]$ ) jewels &
 votive (f]+s1 h] foot encas$ 9 gold1   
because ! con/ant kiss+ has worn away ! 
/one1 ?is haughty & evil-m9d$ ,roman    
matron be>s no possible resemblance to !
 pure ,virg9 ,m>y2 yet cr[ds are always 
at h] feet1 wor%ipp+ h]4 ,! celebrat$   
bronze /atue ( ,/4 ,pet]1 :i* is ador$ 9
 ! great ,*ur*1 & ^: feet are entirely  
kiss$ away by ! lips ( devotees1 is b an
 antique /atue ( ,jupit]1 an idol (     
paganism4 ,all t 0 necess>y to make !   
pagan god a ,*ri/ian sa9t 0 to turn !   
?und]bolt 9 8 uplift$ "r h& to two keys1

 & put a gild$ halo ar\nd 8 head4 ,yet1 
on any ,*ur* holiday1 y w see ?\s&s     
pass+ solemnly be=e ?is image 7array$ 9 
gorge\s robes1 ) ! ,pope's mitre on its 
head71 & aft] b[+ be=e x1 rise on _!    
toes & repeat$ly kiss its feet4         
,footnote3 ,vick]s' ,rome  ,?is me?od ( 
receiv+ hea!n deities z sa9ts has be5   
common all ov] ,s\? ,am]ica1 & _m       
,indian idols may be se5 9 ! *ur*es1 n[ 
ador$ z ,roman ,ca?olic sa9ts1 :ile !   
wor%ip ( ,m>y has gr[n to an al>m+      
ext5t4 ,9 ,lima's l>ge/ *ur*1 pr9t$ "r  
ov] ! *ancel1 is ! motto1 ,glory to     
,m>y4  ,9 ,cordoba1 ! ,arg5t9e seat (   
le>n+--a city s old t univ]sity degrees 
7 be+ giv5 !re :5 ! ,pilgrim ,fa!rs l&$ 
on ! %ores ( ,new ,engl&--*>ms1 amulets 
& m9iature images ( ! ,virg9 are        
manufactur$ 9 l>ge numb]s4 ,^! are worn 
ar\nd ! neck1 & are suppos$ to "w great 
wond]s4 ,z may be und]/ood1 ! work]s 9  
^! crafts /& up = ,romanism1 & are will+
 to cry !mselves ho>se = ,m>y1 j z ! p (
 old cri$ = ,diana ( ! ,ephesians4  ,x  

is (t5 told ( ! ,prote/ant work] t he   
keeps beh9d 8 door an image ( ! ,bless$ 
,virg91 &1 :5 ent]+ or leav+ ! h\se1 he 
spits 9 h] face4 ,no pa9s are sp>$ to   
/amp out any diss5t+ "w1 & ! mission>y  
is made a by-^w ( opprobrium4 ,i h      
repeat$ly _h ! doors & w9d[s ( my prea*+
 places brok5 & wreck$4 ,! prie/s h     
incit$ ! vulg> cr[d to hoot & yell at   
me1 & on ^! occasions ,i h be5 bo? %ot  
at & /on$4  ,9 ,cordoba1 !re is a v     
co/ly image ( ,m>y4 ,once e ye> x is    
br\ght out into ! public squ>e1 :ile all
 ! crim9als f ! /ate prison /& 9 l9e4   
,by a move ( h] head %e is suppos$ to   
po9t out ! "o :om %e ?9ks %\ld be giv5 8
 lib]ty4  ,f ,goldsmi?'s ,rome we le>n t
 ! ve/al virg9s possess$ ! p[] to p>don 
any crim9al :om !y met on ! road to     
execution4 ,?us does ,romanism foll[    
paganism4 ,) ! ,virg9 is (t5 ! image (  
,/4 ,pet]4 ,! foll[]s ( ?is sa9t affirm 
t !y are always w>n$1 ?ree days be=e !y 
die1 to prep>e = dea?4 ,/4 ,pet] comes 9
 p]son & knocks on ! wall beside _! b$4 

,z ! virg91 ,diana1 0 ! gu>dian (       
,ephesus1 s ! ,virg9 ,m>y protects      
,arg5t9a4  ,! ,bi%op ( ,tucuman1 9 a    
rec5t spee*1 said3 ,arg5t9a is n[ safe  
aga9/ possible invasion4 ,! newly-cr[n$ 
,lady ( ! ,miracles def5ds ! nor?1 & !  
,lady ( ,lujan gu>ds ! s\?4  ,a writ] 9 
,! ,times ( ,arg5t9a naively asks3 ,if  
^! c safely defy & defeat all com]s1 is 
!re any fur!r necessity = public        
exp5diture 9 milit>y matt]s8  ,s\?      
,am]ica groans "u ! weight ( a m$iaeval 
religion :i* has little to d ) spiritual
 life4 ,9 ,spa9 & ,portugal1 p]haps !   
two mo/ delud$ ( ,european l&s1 ,i h se5
 great d>kness1 b ev5 !re ! prie/ is (t5
 good1 & at lea/ puts on a v5e] ( piety4
 ,9 ,s\? ,am]ica ?is is n g5]ally       
consid]$ necess>y4 ,frequ5tly he is f\nd
 to be ! wor/ man 9 ! village4 ,if y    
speak to him ( 8 dissolute life1 he may 
tell y t he1 be+ a prie/1 may d ?+s y1 a
 layman1 mu/ n4 ,9 ,spa91 ,portugal &   
,italy1 next door to highly enlight5$   
c\ntries1 ! prie/ _c1 = v %ame1 act z he

 is free to d 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,t great  
cont95t has be5 rul$ & gov]n$ only by   
,roman ,ca?olics1 )\t outside int]f]5ce1
 & ,romani/s 9 o!r l&s d n1 & w\ld n1   
believe ! practices !re sanction$4  ,y  
ask ab\t ?is nation & ! ,roman ,ca?olic 
,*ur*1 said ! ,am]ican ,m9i/] 9 "o ,s\? 
,am]ican capital4 ,well1 ! nation is    
rott51 ?anks to ! ,*ur* & to ,spa94 ,!  
,*ur* has taught lies & uncleanness1 &  
be5 ! bulw>k ( inju/ice & wrong = #cjj  
ye>s4 ,h[ c\ld y expect any?+ else8     
,lies1 said a prie/ to a fri5d1 :o told 
! rem>k to u1 :at d lies h to d )       
religion4 ,footnote3 ,missions ,9 ,s\?  
,am]ica1 ,robt4 ,e4 ,spe]4  ,a mission>y
 writes3 ,rec5tly ! ,roman bi%op &      
sev]al o!r prie/s visit$ ! v>i\s t[ns4  
,x 0 a bus9ess trip1 = !y *>g$ a good   
price = baptisms1 confirmations1 etc41 &
 c>ri$ away ?\s&s ( doll>s4 ,9 ,santa   
,cruz a disgraceful sc5e 0 publicly     
enact$ 9 ! *ur* by ! resid5t prie/ & "o 
( ! visitors4 ,bo? saw a woman drop a   
tw5ty-five c5t piece into ! pan2 ea*    

grabb$ = x1 & !n !y f\ght be=e ! p6 ,!  
village prie/ want$ me to take 8 photo1 
b he 0 s drunk ,i _h to help him put on 
8 (ficial robes4 ,he 0 tak5 /&+ 9 !     
doorway ( ! *ur* beside an image ( !    
,virg94  ,!re wan a fea/ 9 honor ( !    
image ( ! ,holy ,_s 9 ! *ur*4 ,?is is a 
figure ( a man ) a be>d2 beside x sits a
 figure ( ,*ri/1 & betwe5 !m a dove4    
,great cr[ds ( p att5d ^! fea/s to buy1 
sell & dr9k4 ,on a common 9 ! t[n a l>ge
 alt> 0 erect$1 & ano!r image ( ! ,holy 
,_s plac$1 & be=e x danc$ ,indians      
fanta/ically dress$ to repres5t monkeys1
 tig]s1 lions & de]4 ,saturday1 ,sunday 
& ,monday 7 days ( debau*]y4 ,m51 wom5 &
 *ildr5 7 intoxicat$2 ! jails 7 full1 & 
extravagances ( all k9ds 7 practis$ by  
mask$ ,indians4 ,! vessels 9 ! *ur* are 
( gold & silv]1 & ! images ea* h a man  
to c>e = !m4 ,! patron sa9t is a l>ge   
image ( ! ,virg91 dress$ 9 clo?+ t co/  
#b1ejj4  ,s9ce return+ to m civiliz$    
l&s1 ,i h be5 ask$3 ,b d !y really      
wor%ip ! ,virg91 or ,god1 ?r\gh h]8 ,i  

answ] t 9 enlight5$ c\ntries :]e ,roman 
,ca?olicism prevails1 ! latt] may be    
true1 b t 9 ,s\? ,am]ica1 discov]$ &    
gov]n$ by ,romani/s f ! e>lie/ times1   
millions ( p wor%ip ! ,virg9 )\t any    
ref]5ce to ,god4 ,%e is ! great goddess 
( ! p1 & :ile "o may see h] image 9 e   
*ur*1 x is seldom inde$ t ,god is honor$
 ) a place--!n ,he may be se5 z an old  
man ) a long :ite be>d4 ,:at k9d ( ,god 
!y ?9k ,he is may be se5 f ! words (    
,mission>y ,f4 ,glass3 ,i f\nd a 'fe/a' 
9 full sw+1 call$ ! ',fea/ ( ! ,div9e   
,et]nal ,fa!r1' & a drunk5 cr[d 7 m>*+  
r\nd1 ) trumpets1 drums & a sacr$ bann]1
 collect+ alms pr(ess$ly on ,8 behalf4  
,footnote3 ,?r\gh ! ,he>t ( ,brazil     
,m>y is ! "o to :om ! va/ majority ( p  
pray4 ,!y h be5 taught to address       
supplications to h]1 &1 be+ a woman1 h] 
he>t is consid]$ m t5d] ?an a man's c\ld
 be4 ,dur+ a dr\ght _! e>ne/ pray] = ra9
 0 answ]$ 9 an unexpect$ way1 = n only  
did %e s5d x1 b ) su* accompany+ viol5ce
 t x wa%$ away ! *ur*6  ,9 "s *ur*es !  

mail-box /&s 9 a corn]1 & ,lett]s to !  
,virg9 is pr9t$ ov] x4 ,!re are always  
_m "y wom5 to be se5 be=e ! image ( ,/4 
,an?ony1 = he is ! patron ( m>riages1 & 
_m a timid confession ( love is dropp$  
into ! lett]-box1 & x (t5 happ5s t a    
m>riage is arrang$ z a result4 ,!       
sup]/iti\s maid5 believes t h] lett]    
goes directly to ! ,virg9 or to ! sa9t 9
 8 heav5ly mansion1 & %e has no         
suspicion t x is read by ! p>i% prie/4  
,sa9ts are innum]able & _! p[]s         
extraord9>y4 ,:5 travell+ 9 ,entre      
,rios1 ,i le>n$ t ,/4 ,ramon 0 an adept 
9 guid+ ! pa? ( ! ?und]bolt4 ,a t]rific 
/orm swept across ! c\ntry1 & a woman1  
afraid = h] h\se1 plac$ 8 image lean+   
aga9/ ! outside wall1 t he might be able
 to see & direct ! elem5ts4 ,! tempe/   
rag$1 & z ?\gh to %[ ! sa9t's utt]      
helplessness1 ! end ( ! h\se 0 /ruck by 
lightn+ & set on fire4 ,little damage 0 
done1 b ,i smil$ :5 ! indignant woman1  
aft] ! /orm ceas$1 s\ndly ?ra%$ ! image 
= n att5d+ to its duty4  ,:ile prea*+ 9 

! t[n ( ,quilmes1 a poor delud$ wor%ipp]
 ( ,rome turn$ f idols to s]ve ! liv+ & 
true ,god4 ,he _h be5 a s9c]e believ] 9 
,/4 ,nicolas1 & implicitly believ$ !    
absurd acc\nt ( t sa9t hav+ rais$ to    
life ?ree *ildr5 :o _h be5 brutally     
murd]$ by _! fa!r & secret$ 9 a b>rel4  
,he br\ght me a picture ( ?is           
wond]-work] tapp+ ! b>rel1 & ! little   
ones 9 ! act ( com+ out alive & well4   
,"o famili> ) ,romanism 9 ,s\? ,am]ica  
has said3 ,x is amaz+ to he> m5 :o h    
access to ! ,^w ( ,god & ! facts (      
hi/ory & ( ! actual /ate ( ! ,romi% _w  
attempt to apologize = or ev5 def5d     
,romanism4 ,romanism is n ,*ri/ianity4  
,! ,*ur* delib]ately lies ab\t ! ,t5    
,comm&m5ts1 entirely omitt+ ! second &  
divid+ ! t5? 9 ord] to make ! requisite 
numb]4 ,c a ,*ur* :i* deceives ! p tea* 
!m true religion8 ,is ! prea*+ ( ,m>y ! 
prea*+ ( ,*ri/8 ,footnote3 ,mission ,9  
,s\? ,am]ica1 ,rob]t ,b4 ,spe]4  ,!re is
 n an ess5tial tru? :i* is n di/ort$1   
cov]$ up1 neutraliz$1 poison$1 &        

completely nullifi$ by ! doctr9es ( !   
,romi% sy/em4 ,footnote3 ,bi%op ,neely's
 ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,a mission>y 9 ,c>tago  
writes3 ,i mu/ tell y ab\t ! annual     
procession ( ! wond]ful miracle-work+   
image call$ ',our ,lady ,que5 ( !       
,angels1' ?r\gh ! pr9cipal /reets ( !   
t[n4 ,picture to y\rselves1 if y c1     
hundr$s ( p pray+1 wor%ipp+1 & do+      
homage to ?is little /one idol1 = :i* a 
special *ur* has be5 built4 ,to ?is     
image _m p come ) _! diseases1 = %e is  
suppos$ to h p[] to cure all4 ,on a     
special day ( ! procession1 p receive   
p>don = p>ticul> s9s if !y only c>ry out
 ! bidd+ ( ',our ,lady1' ,%e seems to   
ord] "s extraord9>y ?+s1 su* z crawl+ 9 
! /reets ) big rocks on ! head aft] !   
procession1 or pa9t+ "o's self all !    
colors ( ! ra9b[4 ,"o man 0 pa9t$ black1
 :ile o!rs wore wigs & be>ds ( a long   
p>asitic grass :i* gr[s f ! trees4 ,"s 7
 dress$ 9 sackclo?1 & all 7 do+ p5ance =
 "s s9 or crime4 ,?is little image 0    
c>ri$ by prie/s1 inc5se 0 burn$ be=e h]1

 & at int]vals 9 ! j\rney %e 0 put on   
lovely alt>s1 on :i* sat little girls   
dress$ 9 blue & gre51 ) w+s ( :ite1     
repres5t+ angels4 ,"s weeks ago ',our   
,lady' 0 c>ri$ ?r\gh ! /reets to collect
 money = ! bull-fights got up 9 h]      
honor4 ,%e is said to be v fond ( ^!    
fights1 :i* are immoral & full ( bloody 
cruelty4 ,?is ye> ! bulls 7 to kill !   
m51 or ! m5 ! bulls1 & ! awful          
drunk5ness ,i _c describe4 ,aft] ?is    
collection ! bi%op came ov] "h1 & is    
said to h tak5 away "s ( ! money4 ,soon 
aft] he di$1 & ! p "h say t ',our ,lady'
 0 angry ) him4  ,f a rec5t li/ ( pray]s
 us$ 9 ! ,*ur* ( ,rome ,i select !      
foll[+ expressions3   ,que5 ( heav5 &   
e>?1 ,"m ( ,god1   my ,sov]eign         
,mi/ress1 ,i pres5t myself be=e   y z a 
poor m5dicant be=e a mighty ,que54      
,all is subject to ,m>y's empire1 ev5   
,god   ,himself4 ,jesus has r5d]$ ,m>y  
omnipot5t3   ! "o is omnipot5t by       
nature1 ! o!r   omnipot5t by grace4     
,y1 ,o ,holy ,virg91 h ov] ,god !       

au?ority   ( a "m4   ,x is impossible t 
a true s]vant ( ,m>y   %\ld be damn$4   
,my s\l is 9 ! h&s ( ,m>y1 s t if   !   
,judge wi%es to condemn me ! s5t5ce     
mu/ pass ?r\gh ?is clem5t ,que51 & %e   
kn[s h[ to prev5t its execution4   ,we1 
,holy ,virg91 hope = grace & salvation  
f y4   ,disp5satrix ( ,div9e ,grace4    
,h[ hi/ory repeats itself6 ,h[ h>d      
paganism is to kill6 ,! anci5t          
,egyptians wor%ipp$ ! ,que5 ( ,heav54   
,j]emiah1 z f> back z #ehg ,b4,c41      
prophesi$ desolation to ,judah = hav+   
burn$ inc5se to ! ,que5 ( ,heav51 & p\r$
 out dr9k (f]+s unto h]1 & made cakes to
 wor%ip h]4--,j]4 xliv4 #ag-ai4  ,( !   
wise m5 7,mat!w ii47 we read3 ,& :5 !y 7
 come into ! h\se1 !y saw ! "y *ild )   
,m>y1 ,8 "m1 & fell d[n & wor%ipp$ ,him4
  ,! ,s\? ,am]ican v]sion ( ,mat!w      
#aa3bh1 z may be se5 c>v$ on a /one ( ! 
,jesuit ,*ur* 9 ,cuzco1 is3 ,come to    
,,m>y1 all y :o are lad5 ) works1 & we>y
 b5ea? ! weight ( y\r s9s1 & %e w       
alleviate y1 ,a lit]al translation ( "o 

( ! pray]s (f]$ to h] reads3 ,yes1      
belov$ ,"m6 ( !e ,i supplicate all t is 
necess>y = ! salvation ( my s\l4 ,( :om 
%\ld ,i ask ?is grace b ( ,!e8 ,to :om  
%\ld a lov+ son g b to 8 belov$ ,"m8 ,to
 :om ! weak %eep cry b to its div9e     
%eph]dess8 ,:om seek ! sick1 b !        
cele/ial doctor8 ,:om invoke ^? 9       
affliction b ! "m ( consolation8 ,he> me
 !n1 ,holy ,que56  ,! /atues ( ! ,que5 (
 ,heav5 are (t5 ( great magnific5ce1 !  
dress ( "o :i* ,i "k hav+ co/ #b1jjj4 ,9
 ! poor ,indian *ur*es a bag ( maize    
leaves1 ti$ ne> ! top to make a neck1 & 
above t an ,indian physiognomy1 pa9t$ ) 
"s vegetable dye1 s]ves ! same purpose4 
,! ,bi%op ( ,la ,s]5a1 9 ,*ili1 has     
receiv$ z mu* z #dj1jjj a ye> = keep+ up
 ! rev]$ image 9 t *ur*1 & ^! images are
 wor%ipp$4 ,beque/s are (t5 left to !m1 
& a popul> "o w receive _m legacies     
annually4  ,to be j1 ,i mu/ m5tion t 9 !
 arms ( ?is ,"m ( ,god !re is1 almo/    
inv>iably1 ! *ild ,jesus1 b ,i mu/ also 
/ate t to t5s ( ?\s&s ?is baby nev] grew

 to manhood1 b w5t up to heav5 9 ,8 "m's
 arms4 ,:at a c>icature ( ,*ri/ianity6  
,paul said3 ,if ,*ri/ be n ris51 !n is  
our prea*+ va91 & y\r fai? is also va94 
,make ,jesus a p]petual *ild1 &         
,m>iolatry becomes l[] ?an ,*9ese       
ance/ral wor%ip4 ,if ,he1 z a *ild1 0   
translat$ to heav51 !n ,he nev] di$ &   
rose aga94 ,m>y is1 to !m1 ! ,savi\r4 ,!
 *ild ,jesus happ5$ to be h] son1 &1 z  
%e 0 ! great div9e "o1 ,he1 ?r\gh h]1   
p>took ( div9ity4 ,la ,cruz1 a weekly   
pap]1 publi%$ 9 ,tucuman1 ,arg5t9a1 9   
its issue ( ,septemb] #crd1 #ahii1 _h ! 
foll[+ article3  ,,! ,,bir? ,,( ,,m>y4  
,*ronicl]s say t su* 0 ! fury t possess$
 ! devils 9 hell1 at ! mom5t ( ! bir? ( 
! ,mo/ ,bless$ ,virg91 t !y ne>ly broke 
loose4  ,!re 0 s\nd$ 9 heav5 ! fir/     
cannon %ot 9 salutation ( su* a happy   
ev5t4 ,lucif] gave su* a jump t he got 8
 horns caught 9 ! moon1 & !re1 x is     
said1 he rema9$ hang+ all ! day1 l !    
insignificant fell[ he is1 to ! great   
amusem5t ( ! bless$ ones above1 :o      

laugh$ to see su* an uncommon sight4  ,!
 o!r devils1 :o c\ld n jump s high1     
rema9$ bel[ scream+ & kick+61 & te>+ _! 
apology = be>ds1 :5 n o!rwise occupi$ 9 
scrat*+ & bit+ & burn+ ! un=tunate      
condemn$ ones4  ,& all ?is because444 x 
_h be5 =etold t444 a woman1 yes1 a      
woman1 %\ld "o day bruise _! heads444 &1
 accord+ to all appe>ances1 ?is 0 !     
woman444 & t %e 0 t bright & morn+ /> t 
ann\nces ! appe>ance ( ! ,sun4  ,:y %\ld
 we n !re=e rejoice1 z ! angels 9 heav5 
rejoic$1 ov] t moat happy ev5t--! bir? (
 ,m>y4  ,f ?is x is cle> t 9 ,tucuman1  
at any rate--& ?is1 by ! way1 is an     
important city1 ( at lea/ #ge1jjj       
inhabitants--!y believe t ,m>y1 n ,*ri/1
 came to bruise ! s]p5t's head4 ,!      
,roman ,ca?olic translation ( ,g54 #c3ae
 is3 ,%e %all bruise ! s]p5t's head4    
,?us1 ! read] sees1 at ! v comm5cem5t ( 
,god's ,^w1 & 9 ! v fir/ promise ( a    
,savi\r = fall5 m51 ! eyes ( seek+ s\ls 
are turn$ by ,romani/s f ! ,creator to !
 creature4  ,h[ ^! words are und]/ood by

 ,romani/s is pla9ly se5 by ! pictures (
 ,m>y trampl+ on ! s]p5t1 :i* are f\nd  
ev]y:]e 9 ,romi% l&s4  ,"u pictures ( ! 
,virg91 circulat$ ev]y:]e1 are ! words3 
,we h se5 ! /> & are come to adore h]4  
,! pray]s ( adoration run1 ,to ! holie/ 
bir? ( ,m>y1 t 9 dea? x may br+ ab\t our
 bir? to et]nal glory4 ,ave ,m>ia6 ,to !
 angui% ( ,m>y1 t we may be made pr$e/9$
 *ildr5 ( h] sorr[s4 ,ave ,m>ia6  ,!    
v5]ation ) :i* ! ,virg9 ,m>y is reg>d$1 
& ! p[] ) :i* %e is inve/$1 are ?us told
 by _m a prie/3 ,once ,god 0 s angry ) !
 _w t ,he det]m9$ to de/roy x1 & 0 ab\t 
to execute ,8 design :5 ,m>y said to    
,him3 ',give me back fir/ ! milk ) :i*  
,i f$ y1 & !n y c d s6' ,9 ?is way %e   
av]t$ ! imp5d+ de/ruction4  ,millions 9 
,brazil look ^u ! ,virg9 ,m>y z _!      
,savi\r4 ,a book widely circulat$       
?r\gh\t nor!rn ,brazil says t ,m>y1 :5  
/ill a m]e *ild1 w5t bodily to heav5 &  
begg$ ,god to s5d ,*ri/1 ?r\gh h]1 into 
! _w4 ,fur!r on x says t ,m>y w5t aga9  
to heav5 to plead = s9n]s2 & at ! close 

,m>y's w is giv51 dispos+ ( ! :ole _w1 &
 ,god ! ,fa!r1 ,son1 & ,holy ,_s--!     
,tr9ity--act z ! ?ree witnesses to ! w4 
,h[ _m good ,*ri/ians at home ?9k       
,brazil is a ,*ri/ian c\ntry8 ,footnote3
 ,w4 ,c4 ,port]4  ,if ! ,bible 7 9      
circulation ?r\gh\t ,s\? ,am]ica1 !     
populace w\ld be enabl$ to see t ,*ri/  
is n ! remorseless ,judge b ! lov+      
,savi\r1 & t x 0 ,he :o pur*as$         
r$emption = u4 ,m>y1 accord+ to ,luke   
#a3dg1 0 h]self 9 ne$ ( a ,savi\r1 & h] 
only record$ comm& 0 to d z ,he1 !      
,*ri/1 enjo9$ 7,see ,john #b3e74 ,n only
 ,prote/ants1 b n ev5 ,roman ,ca?olics  
born 9 ,prote/ant c\ntries1 c und]/& :at
 ,romanism is 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,*ri/    
said3 ,se>* ! ,scriptures4 ,rome has    
done h] be/ to de/roy ! sacr$ volume4   
,papal bulls1 said to h be5 dictat$ by !
 ,holy ,gho/1 h be5 issu$ by sev]al     
,popes4 ,rome sometimes burn$ ! m>tyrs )
 a ,bible hang+ ar\nd _! necks4         
,romani/s %[$ _! hatr$ aga9/ ,wycliffe1 
! fir/ translator ( ! ,new ,te/am5t into

 ,engli%1 by une>?+ 8 crumbl+ rema9s &  
burn+ !m to a%es4 ,i h (t5 se5 ! same _s
 %[n 9 ,s\? ,am]ica4  ,a colporteur1    
writ+ ( ,scripture circulation 9 !      
,arg5t9e1 says3 ,_m ( ! p are try+ to   
get u eject$ f ! city4 ,"o1 to :om a    
,bible 0 (f]$1 became s infuriat$ t he  
said3 ',if x 7 n su* a public place8 ,i 
w\ld dr[n y 9 ! riv]4' ,a mission>y     
writes3 ,a "y fell[ call$ out aft] me1  
',i r5\nce y1 ,satan1' b z t is n my "n1
 ,i did n turn back4 ,dur+ ! meet+ on   
,sunday ev5+1 ! prie/ came rid+ up to ! 
w9d[1 & %\t$ t he w\ld soon put a /op to
 u4 ,today he has _h a numb] ( bills    
pr9t$1 w>n+ 8 p>i%ion]s to h no?+ to d )
 u4 ,to-night "o ( ! bills 0 pa/$ on !  
door4 ,br4 ,ar5a took x (f1 & no soon]  
_h he ! door %ut ?an two %ots 7 fir$1 b 
!y did no m h>m ?an to pi]ce !          
door--?ank ,god6 ,i h be5 in=m$ t a     
numb] ( "y m5 w ei!r beat or %oot me1 & 
t z ,i am ! only "o left !y are go+ to  
make me leave1 too1 by f\l or by fair   
means4 ,! foll[+ is a translation ( !   

prie/'s w>n+3    ,to ! fai?ful (        
,c&el>ia4 ,bew>e4   ,?is p>i% has be5   
invad$ by "o ( !   wick$ sects (        
,prote/antism1 &1 hav+ !   sacr$ duty ( 
w>n+ my p>i%ion]s1 ,i give   !m to      
und]/& t %\ld any "o (   !m att5d1 ev5 f
 m]e curiosity1 to he>   ! false &      
p]nici\s propag&a1 or accept   tracts or
 books t come f ! propagators   (       
,prote/antism1 he w be excommunicat$   f
 ! true & only ,*ur* ( ,jesus ,*ri/1    
,ca?olic1 ,apo/olic1 & ,roman1 :]e9     
resides   ! infallible au?ority4 ,bew>e1
 !n1 oh1 ye   fai?ful1 & li/5 to y\r    
p>i% prie/1 :o   advises y ( ! dang] (  
y\r s\ls4  ,yet ) all ?is d>kness &     
error1 ! majority are well cont5t$1 & q 
will+ to obey w>n+s l ?is & ! foll[+1   
publi%$ 9 ,los ,pr9cipios1 ( ,cordoba3  
,x has come to our k t !re are   among/ 
u v>i\s ,prote/ant m9i/]s1 t   di/ribute
 ) pr(usion leaflets conta9+ _!         
errone\s doctr9es & calumnies aga9/ !   
,ca?olic ,*ur*4 ,"s ( ^! leaflets &     
booklets   h fall5 into our h&s1 & 9 !m 

we   h f\nd confirmation ( :at we say   
above4   ,9 "o ( ^! leaflets1 = example1
 !y treat   z idolatry ! wor%ip t we    
,ca?olics tribute   to ! ,"m ( ,god4 ,!y
 treat z sup]/ition   ! v5]ation !y h 9 
,rome = ! holy   /aircase by :i* our ,"l
 ,jesus ,*ri/ w5t   up to ! judgm5t hall
 ( ,pilate4 ,!y combat   ! wor%ip (     
images1 relics1 & ?+s ( t   description4
    ,ca?olics ought to "k t x is n      
lawful   = !m to read ^! leaflets1 nor !
 ,sacr$   ,bible di/ribut$ by !         
,prote/ants1 because x   has be5        
falsifi$ by !m1 accommodat+ its   texts 
to _! errors4 ,! ,*ur* has prohibit$    
its *ildr5 _m times ^! p]nici\s read+s4 
,let u reject1 accord+ to ! c\nsel   (  
,/4 ,paul1 ^! rav5\s wolves t come 9    
%eep's clo?+1 = !y come to kill & to    
de/roy s\ls1 ?ru/+ !m into ! ways (     
error1 be+ sep>at$ f ! true ,*ur* (     
,jesus ,*ri/1 f :i* ,lu!r1 ,calv91      
,zu+lio1 ,h5ry ,,viii1 & o!rs sep>at$   
!mselves1 ( :om ,cobbell1 ! ,prote/ant  
hi/orian1 himself has said3 ',nev] has !

   _w seem ga!r$ into "o c5tury s _m    
p]v]se m5 z ,lu!r1 ,zu9iglio1 ,calv91'  
etc4   ,"o acqua9t$ ) ,spani%-,am]ican  
,romanism w smile at ! ref]5ce 9 ! above
 article to ! ,bible hav+ be5 falsifi$  
by u4 ,if ! text ( any v]sion extant is 
comp>$ ) ^? :i* are pa9t$ on ! walls ( !
 *ur* 9 ,celaya1 !re surely w be f\nd a 
great discrepancy4 ,! foll[+ are        
translations3  ,,m>y1 my "m1 9 !e ,i    
hope2 save me f ^? t p]secute           
me4--,psalm vii4 #a4  ,be ?\ exalt$1 ,o 
,,m>y1 above ! heav5s1 & ?y glory above 
all ! e>?4--,psalm lvii4 #e4  ',i w s+  
to ,,m>y :ile ,i live4--,psalm civ4 #cc4
  ,s]ve ,,m>y ) love1 & rejoice 9 h] )  
trembl+4--,psalm ii4 #aa4  ,(f]         
sacrifices ( righte\sness & tru/ 9      
,,m>y4--,psalm iv4 #e4  ,let ev]y?+ t   
ha? brea? praise ,,our ,,lady1 etc41    
etc4  ,prote/ant ,*ri/ians pay almo/ all
 ! entire co/ ( circulat+ ,roman        
,ca?olic translations ( ! ,scriptures   
ov] ! _w4 ,9 ! v]sions ( ,de ,saci      
7,fr5*71 ,m>t9i 7,italian71 ,scio       

7,spani%71 ,p]eira 7,portuguese71 &     
,wuyka 7,poli%71 we f9d 9 ,mat!w #c3 #b1
 & ?irty-f\r o!r places1 in/ead ( rep5t 
ye ! words1 d p5ance1 :ile 9 ,mat!w #c3 
#h1 & "s tw5ty o!r places1 ! ^w t %\ld  
be translat$ rep5tance1 is r5d]$ p5ance4
 ,9 ! foll[+ light way p5ance c be done1
 :ile rep5tance is n ?\ght (4  ,= s9s   
aga9/ ! ,*ur* ! prie/ w (t5 condemn !   
culprit to we> a hide\s g>m5t = h\rs1 or
 days1 accord+ to ! gravity ( ! (f5ce1 b
 ?is puni%m5t c be worn by proxy4 ,!re  
are always ^? :o1 = a consid]ation1 w   
don ! badge ( disgrace4  ,:at is call$  
,holy ,week gives pro(s ( ! %all[ness ( 
,rome's piety4 ,prie/s & p alike c weep1
 fa/ & fa9t1 because _! ,god is suff]+ &
 dy+2 all traffic c /op because1 !y say1
 ,god has di$2 b z soon z ! dea? (      
,judas is ann\nc$1 at noon on ,saturday1
 ! noise ( guns1 pi/ols1 squibs1 etc41  
takes ! place ( ! dea?-l quiet t _h     
reign$4 ,aft] an h\r or two sil5ce aga9 
prevails till ,sunday morn+1 :5 all     
re/ra9t is remov$1 & p seem to make up =

 lo/ "t4 ,dr9k+ & k9dr$ evils run riot1 
& x is no uncommon ?+ on ! ,sunday night
 to see ! p dr9k+ & danc+ by ! light ( !
 c&les !y 7 burn+ to _! favorite virg9  
or sa9t4  ,9 ! l>ge city ( ,lima1 =     
c5turies a v /ronghold ( image wor%ip1 !
 int]e/ 9 ! ,*ur* has ( late ye>s be5   
wan+4 ,p]haps "o reason = ?is is ! *ang+
 nature ( ! native population ( ! city1 
= ! dea?s !re exce$ ! bir?s4 ,see+ ?is  
fall+ away f ! ,*ur*1 ! prie/s ann\nc$ t
 !y _h decid$ to s5d = ! ,sacr$ ,he>t ( 
! ,virg91 & tru/$ t ! pres5ce ( ?is holy
 relic w\ld promote ! m fai?ful         
att5dance ( ! flock4 ,! he>t arriv$ & 0 
) great solemnity hung f ! ro( ( !      
ca!dral z ! inc5tive to piety4 ,?\s&s   
flock$ into ! sacr$ build+ ) rev]5t awe4
 ,! wom5 gaz$ ^u ! he>t ) te>ful eyes1 &
 z !y ?\ght ( ,m>y's suff]+s & goodness 
!y 7 emulat$ to deep] acts ( love &     
piety4 ,"o day ! w9d blew v /rongly     
?r\gh ! op5 doorway1 & ! ,sacr$ ,he>t   
began to sway to & fro4 ,gett+ m & m    
mom5tum ) e oscillation1 ! he>t f9ally  

/ruck aga9/ a %>p cornice1 :5 lo--all ! 
sawdu/ fell out ( ! canvas bag !y _h    
wor%ipp$ z ! he>t ( fle% ( _! goddess4  
,h[ !y reconcil$ ! exi/5ce ( ! he>t ( ! 
,virg9 ) _! belief t %e asc5d$ to heav5 
9 a bodily =m ,i d n pret5d to imag9e4  
,x may be rem>k$ t ?is is surely        
,romanism corrupt$4 ,nay1 x is r        
,romanism develop$4  ,&acilli is a      
hamlet1 at :i* !re is an image ( !      
,virg94 ,e ye> pilgrims resort ?i!r1 & a
 great fea/ to ! ,virg9 is celebrat$1 ! 
mo/ important day be+ ,decemb] #bf?4    
,dur+ ! la/ few ye>s !re has be5 a fall+
 (f 9 ! numb] ( pilgrims1 especially ^? 
( ! bett] class1 b ?is la/ ye> ! cl]ical
 au?orities h left no /one unturn$ 9    
ord] to get toge!r m p ?an ev]4 ,six    
bi%ops 7 adv]tis$ to come1 & !y 7 to    
cr[n ! ,virg9 ) a cr[n :i* co/ ?\s&s (  
doll>s4 ,^! proce$+s r\se an incr$ible  
en?usiasm 9 ! p4 ,footnote3 ,regions    
,beyond4  ,sometimes ,m>y's image is    
baptiz$ 9 ! riv]1 :ile m5 & wom5 l9e !  
bank1 ready to leap into ! holy wat] :5 

%e is lift$ out4 ,aft]w>ds ! wat] 9 :i* 
%e 0 imm]s$ is sold z a cure = bodily   
ills4 ,sometimes ! e>? f "u ! build+ :]e
 %e is kept is also sold = ! same       
purpose4  ,imag9e a *ur* l t 9 ,tucuru6 
,x consi/s ( a palm-leaf hut1 ) a b>e   
floor & no furniture :atev]4 ,r\nd !    
sides /& twelve life-size figures1 made 
( canvas & /uff$ ) husks ( corn1 :i* "s 
"o ( ! ,indian wor%ipp]s has pa9t$ ) !  
features & dress ( 8 own race4 ,:5 ,i   
w5t 9 two wom5 lay pro/rate on ! floor1 
& "o ( !m scream$ 9 agoniz+ tones1 ',my 
,lords1 s5d ! rod ( y\r p[] to heal     
him6'--evid5tly pray+ to ^! apo/les on  
behalf ( "s sick relative4 ,"h1 once a  
ye>1 a prie/ celebrates mass1 & :5 he   
la/ came he /uck a pap] ov] ! entrance1 
:i* read3 ,hoec e/ ,domus ,del et ,porta
 ,coeli 7' ,?is is ! ,h\se ( ,god & !   
,gate ( ,heav54'7 ,9 ,san ,jos we h !   
f\r walls ( a new *ur*1 consecrat$ to ! 
',virg91' :]e1 rec5tly1 a raffle 0 held 
on behalf ( ! project$ edifice4 ,z we   
ent]1 ! fir/ ?+ se5 is an inscription1  

pr(ess+ to be a message to ea* visitor f
 ! ,virg91 :i* says1 ',my son1 behold me
 )\t a temple4 ,come1 help 9 build+ x1 &
 ,i %all rew>d !e ) ,et]nal ,life4      
,footnote3 ,report ( ! ,briti% & ,=eign 
,bible ,society4  ,*ri/ said3 ,i give   
unto ,my %eep et]nal life2 b ! record ( 
t say+ is jeal\sly kept f !m4  ,:5 !    
e>ly coloni/s left ,spa9 = ! ,new ,_w1  
!y took ) !m ! ,cre$ ( ,pius ,,iv4 ,t   
cre$ expressly /ates t ! ,bible is n = !
 p4 ,:oev] w be sav$ mu/ r5\nce x4 ,x is
 a =bidd5 book4  ,9 #ahej1 :5 ! ,*ri/ian
 _w 0 fir/ be+ r\s$ to ! d>kness ( ,s\? 
,am]ica1 & philan?ropic m5 7 desir\s (  
s5d+ ,bibles !re1 ,pope ,pius ,,ix4     
wrote an ,encyclical lett] 9 :i* he     
spoke ( ,bible /udy z 'poison\s read+1' 
& urg$ all 8 v5]able bre?r5 ) vigilance 
& solicitude to put a /op to x4 ,?us has
 ,s\? ,am]ica be5 d5i$ ! revelation (   
,god4 ,! prie/ has1 because ( ?is       
ignorance1 be5 able to '"l x ov] ,god's 
h]itage4' ,footnote3 ,gu9ess's ,romanism
 & ! ,re=mation4  ,) an op5 ,bible1     

,spani% ,am]ica w\ld h progress$ z ,nor?
 ,am]ica has done4 ,)\t ! enlight5+     
influ5ces ( t ,^w1 behold ! d>kness6    
,c\ld any?+ be m eloqu5t ?an ! prosp]ity
 ( ! l& ( ! ,pilgrim ,fa!rs 9 proclaim+ 
! value ( ! op5 ,bible8  ,mr4 ,hudson   
,taylor1 ( ! ,*9a ,inl& ,mission1 speak+
 on a rec5t occasion1 said3 ,i always   
pray = ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,x is a mo/ ne$y "p
 ( ! _w1 & wants y\r pray]s z well z    
m9e4 ,! work]s !re h great difficulties 
to cont5d )1 & ( ! same sort z we h 9   
,*9a1 f ,roman ,ca?olicism--! mo/       
,god-di%onor+ sy/em 9 ! _w4 ,! hea!n ne$
 y\r pray]s1 b ! ,roman ,ca?olic ne$s !m
 t5 times m4 ,he is t5 times z mu* 9 !  
d>k z ! hea!n !mselves are4  ,!         
,mission>y ,review ( ! ,_w describes    
,s\? ,am]ica z ,e>?'s d>ke/ l&4 ,d y n  
?9k1 ,o read]1 ! words are mo/ truly    
appli$8  ,!re are 9 ,s\? ,am]ica eight  
hundr$ mission>ies1 m5 & wom51 f ,great 
,brita91 ! ,cont95t ( ,europe1 ,canada &
 ! ,unit$ ,/ates4 ,9 ,canada & ! ,unit$ 
,/ates !re is on an av]age "o ,prote/ant

 m9i/] = e #ead p]sons4 ,9 ,s\? ,am]ica 
ea* mission>y has a con/itu5cy ( ab\t   
fifty ?\s&1 indicat+ a ne$ 9 proportion 
( population "o hundr$ times z great z 9
 ! ,prote/ant c\ntries ( ,nor? ,am]ica4 
,footnote3 ,bi%op ,neely's ,s\? ,am]ica4
  ,yet1 ,"o call$ ,jesus1 :om we say we 
love1 said3 ,g ye into all ! _w & prea* 
! ,gospel to e creature4