,,h&book ,,on ,,dress ,,& ,,cloak ,,cutt+1 ,,by ,,*as4 ,,heckl+]4 #ahhd4 ,,new ,,york3 ,,pet] ,,de ,,baun1 ,,pr9t]1 #aja ,,& #ajc ,,fulton ,,/reet4 ,ent]$ accord+ to an ,act ( ,congress 9 ! ye> #ahhd1 by ,,*>les ,,heckl+]1 9 ! ,(fice ( ! ,libr>ian ( ,congress1 at ,wa%+ton1 ,d4 ,c4 ,,preface4 ,! foll[+ pages conta9 ! au?or's ,improv$ ,sy/em ( ,dress & ,cloak ,cutt+1 fully expla9$1 ) ! int5tion ( help+ ^? /ud5ts :o1 desir\s to foll[ ?is bran* ( indu/ry1 are met on ! v ?re%old by a difficulty--! *oice ( a suitable ,sy/em4 ,! ,sy/em giv5 has be5 f\nd to give ! greate/ security 9 its results1 ) ! lea/ tr\ble1 x be+ easy to le>n1 readily us$1 & gives ! greate/ satisfaction to ! l>ge numb] ( ^? us+ x4 ,ev]y?+ 9 illu/rat+ & expla9+ has be5 omitt$ :i* might t5d to complicate or ret>d ! /ud5t 9 acquir+ x4 ,e po9t ne$$ to make x cle> has be5 c>efully put d[n--9 its illu/rations1 9 ! simple description1 & 9 gr\p+ ! sep>ate articles 9 _! correct places--mak+ x at once easy to compreh5d & p]fect z a :ole4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,proportionate ,,sy/em4 ,mo/ ,sy/ems ( proportion1 ?us f> issu$1 are project$ on ! brea/-measure4 ,x w be evid5t1 on inve/igat+ ! proportions ( ! human figure1 t a ,sy/em bas$ only on "o size ( ! body1 & t its wid?1 c nev] lead to ! be/ results4 ,illu/ration ,:5 ! height & wid? are equal x is immat]ial :i* we use4 ,b ?is is only ! case on normal sizes1 f #cd to #ch brea/1 z all deviations f ^! sizes are diff]5t 9 _! proportions ( heights to ! wid?s4 ,! problem to be solv$ 9 us+ a proportionate sy/em is to arrange ! l5g?s s t !y agree ) a c]ta9 brea/ size & use x = ! heights4 ,9 practice we f9d t ! av]age =ms1 measur+ f #cd to #ch brea/1 require & c be cut by ! full brea/-measure1 z ! l5g?s agree1 9 ! majority ( cases1 ) ?is size2 b 9 l>g] & small] sizes ?is brea/-measure w ei!r be too small or too l>ge1 !re=e1 9 draft+ any o!r sizes ?an ^? indicat$1 we mu/ use ! quantities z giv5 9 ! foll[+ ,table1 z set opposite ! full brea/-measure1 9 ord] t ! patt]n 9 its l5g? may be ( correct size1 & nei!r too small or too l>ge4 ,table ( ,sizes4 ,,size ,,to ,,draft ,,brea/4 ,,"o-,,half ,,wai/4 ,,brea/-,,measure4 ----------------------------- #cj #ae #bb #ca #ae #bb #cb #af #bc #cc #af #bc #cd #ag #bd #ce #ag #bd #cf #ah #be #cg #ah #be #ch #ai #bf #ci #ai #bf #dj #bj #bg #da #bj #bh #db #bj #bi #dc #ba #cj #dd #ba #ca #de #ba #cc #df #ba #cd #dg #bb #cf #dh #bb #cg #di #bc #ch #ej #bc #ci ----------------------------- ,9 consid]+ ! human body x mu/ be all[$ t suffici5t & m>k$ *>act]i/ics exi/ betwe5 a "y girl & ! full-gr[n woman--! sl5d]1 & ! l>ge1 fle%y =m4 ,all ^! t5d to e/abli% t ! fir/ elem5ts ( a good ,sy/em = con/ruct+ g>m5ts is a good proportionate /&>d4 ,illu/ration ,9 /rict accordance ) ?is we h giv5 diagrams1 illu/rat+ ! sy/em by :i* ! art ( cutt+ is ?or\ghly atta9$2 we also give ! sy/em z x %\ld be us$ 9 draft+ by measure4 ,table ( ,sizes = ,*ildr54 ,,age4 ,,brea/4 ,,wai/4 ,,l5g? ,,( ,,back ,,to ,,natural ,,wai/4 ------------------------------- #b #bb #bb #i #c #bb #bb #i #d #bc #bb #aj #e #bd #bb #aj #f #be #bc #aa #g #be #bc #aa #h #bf #bc #ab #i #bg #bc #ab #aj #bh #bd #ac #aa #bh #bd #ac #ab #bi #bd #ad #ac #cj #bd #ad #ad #ca #be #ae #ae #cb #be #ae ------------------------------- ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,,! ,,measures4 ,! measures requir$ are few1 & only su* z give correct results 7,see ,fig4 #a74 ,h a tape :i* fa/5s ar\nd ! wai/ 9 su* a mann] t x w be level4 ,measure f socket bone at top ( back1 po9t ,o1 to wai/ ,i bel[ ! tape to ,b1 = ! highe/ "p ( hip1 & to ! full l5g? ( g>m5t want$4 ,take next ! wid? ( back f ,e to ,d1 be+ c>eful to see :e!r ! dress worn has ?is wid? 9 ! correct place4 ,%\ld x be ei!r too n>r[ or too wide modify y\r measure z seems "r4 ,take ! measure ar\nd ! arm-hole2 !n move ! arm =w>d to all[ y to put ! tape directly "u ! arm to seam ( sleeve at ,f1 & measure d[n to bottom ( tape at ,j4 ,next1 put ! tape "u ! arm1 close up1 & measure ! l5g? ( ! sleeve d[n to ! wri/4 ,turn to ,fig4 #b1 & measure1 z %[n1 f back ( neck1 po9t ,o1 pa/ ! front ( arm1 to bottom ( tape at ,j4 ,?is measure mu/ be tak5 easy1 & %\ld run /raight d[n 9 front ( arm4 ,measure next f front ( arm to c5tre ( back4 ,to take ?is measure1 a little squ>e1 hav+ a tape atta*$1 is v h&y to use4 ,take ! brea/-measure ov] ! fulle/ "p ( ! bosom & %\ld] blades1 !n ! wai/-measure1 always tak5 close1 & ! hip-measure4 ,^! are all ! measures requir$ = a dress-wai/1 a jacket1 or a long g>m5t4 ,= a skirt we take ! l5g? on ! side1 f ! hip d[n to ! floor4 ,= a circul> take ! wid? ar\nd ! %\ld]s4 ,,fig4 #c ,,& #d4 ,,! ,,wai/ ,,patt]n4 ,comm5ce by draw+ l9e ,o on ! edge ( a %eet ( pap] f po9t ,o to ,f1 & "o l9e ,c at "r angles ) x f ,o to ,n4 ,f ,o g d[n ?ree-f\r?s ( an in* = ! actual top ( back4 ,f ,o to ,c is "o-qu>t] ( ! brea/-measure1 :i* = a #cf bu/ w\ld be #i in*es1 & f ,c ov] to #af draw l9e ,d 7see ,fig4 #d7 at "r angles ) ! back l9e4 ,next1 measure f 1 or ! top ( back d[n to ,f1 ! l5g? ( back1 f socket bone to ! natural wai/ & f ,f draw a l9e ov] to ! front at ,t4 ,f ,f g 9 #a in*1 & draw a l9e = ! c5tre ( ! back1 f at top to #a at ! bottom4 ,f ,o ov] on ! top l9e1 place #b in*es to ! po9t m>k$ 4 ,?is w be ab\t "r = all m$ium sizes4 ,= l>ge sizes1 ov] #dj brea/1 make x #b in*es to #b in*es & = sizes "u #cj brea/-measure let x be #a to #a in*es4 ,x w make no diff]5ce 9 ! fit :at ?is wid? may be1 z x only affects ! appe>ance ( ! %\ld]-seam4 ,a little practice1 h[ev]1 w enable any "o to apply ! "r wid?4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,o & ,e 7see ,fig4 #d71 fix po9t ,b1 & 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,b & ,e1 locate po9t ,c1 & draw l9es ,b & ,g f bo? po9ts4 ,/>t+ at ,e1 measure ov] to ,s "o-?ird ( ! brea/1 :i* is #f in*es = a #cf2 & add to x "o in*1 :i* fixes ,s2 & f ,s to ,h place "o-f\r?1 or #d in*es4 ,all fractions & divisions t we use 9 explanation are bas$ on ! brea/-measure1 & are f\nd already divid$ on ! squ>e4 ,at ,s & ,h draw l9es up1 z %[n4 ,:]e l9es ,s-,j & ,b-,j cross1 beg9 by draw+ ano!r to ! top1 at ,a4 ,n[1 curve f to ,a1 & f ,a to ,g1 :i* la/ po9t is "o-half in* above ,j4 ,comm5c+ at ,g curve pa/ ,j to ,r1 go+ a trifle inside ( /raight l9e1 !n f ,r pa/ ,x to ,v4 ,f ,r draw a /raight l9e to #a1 & curve ! back seam f ,r by go+ only a little inside ( /raight l9e at #ai1 !nce to #b4 ,po9t #b is #a in*es f c5tre #a4 ,f #b to #a place #a in*1 !n curve ! side-body f #ai to #a4 ,next1 measure f ! c5tre ( ! back at ,z1 on ! l9e "u ! arm1 to get ! po9t ,d 9 front4 ,?is %\ld be "o-half ( ! brea/-measure 7#ah74 ,po9t ,d be+ plac$1 draw a l9e f !re up & d[n to ,n & to ,u1 at "r angles ) ! l9e "u ! arm4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,to =m ! neck we take "o-six? ( ! brea/ & place x f ,n to ,p1 &1 us+ ,n z a pivot1 sweep f ,p to #ae4 ,"o-qu>t] in* inside ( front l9e at #ae we />t to draw ! curv$ front l9e to ! bottom1 by go+ outside ( ,d "o-half in* & com+ back to /raight l9e aga91 ne> ,u4 ,"o & a half in*es bel[ ! wai/-l9e1 at ,u1 draw a l9e f ,t ov] to #ab4 ,f ,p to ,b draw a /raight l9e2 !n take ! l5g? ( ! back %\ld]1 f ,a to ,g1 & place ! same f ,p t[>ds #ag1 & :]e ?is rea*es is po9t #ag4 ,hav+ locat$ #ag1 curve f x above ! l9e ( %\ld] at #ba1 & drop "o-f\r? in* bel[ x at #bj2 &1 also1 f #bj draw ! arm-hole pa/ #ah to ,x2 b d n q t\* ,a1 & drop bel[ ,v "o-f\r? in*4 ,po9t ,v is midway betwe5 ,s & ,h2 f x draw a /raight l9e to #d2 curve a little on bo? sides ( x2 t is1 />t+ f ,v1 keep foll[+ ! l9e = two in*es1 !n gradually sep>ate t[>ds ! wai/-l9e1 s t y w h two curves1 :i* w be ap>t "o-f\r? in* ne> wai/1 b com+ toge!r aga9 at #d4 ,ab\t "o-half in* m =w>d ?an ! middle1 betwe5 #ai & ,v1 fix po9t ,x2 & 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 #a & #d1 locate #c2 !n draw a l9e f ,x to #c & curve x4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,h & ,d1 m>k po9t #ab1 & 9 ! middle1 betwe5 #ab & ,h1 po9t #ac4 ,measure ! di/ance f front1 at ,u1 to #a1 & f #b to #a2 on ?is draft x w be #af in*es4 ,n[ d$uct f ?is ! size ( wai/1 #ab in*es1 & ! rema9d]1 #d in*es1 mu/ be tak5 out 9 d>ts4 ,we put !m 9 z foll[s3 ,f ,u to #e place a di/ance ( #b in*es = all av]age m$ium sizes2 f #e to #f is "o d>t ( #b in*es1 & betwe5 ! d>ts1 f #f to #g1 is ?ree-f\r?s in*1 !n f #g to #h is ano!r d>t ( #b in*es4 ,take two-?irds ( ! di/ance "u ! arm & place x upw>ds f #g t[>ds #ac = ! height ( ! back d>t1 & let ! front "o />t "o-half in* l[]2 !n draw !m1 z %[n1 f #bb & #bc to #i1 #aj1 #aa & #ab4 ,n[1 at "o-f\r? in* bel[ #a1 curve ! l[] l9e pa/ #c1 & a trifle above x1 to #ab1 drop po9t #ab a little bel[ ! l9e2 also drop #aj a little bel[ x2 f #i to ,t rema9 on ! l9e /raight across4 ,! draft is n[ f9i%$ by proportion1 & we c assure our read]s t1 ) ! use ( ! sizes on our ,proportionate ,table1 x is applicable to all =ms1 ! mann] ( draft+ rema9+ ! same 9 all cases4 ,all our figures1 unless o!rwise /at$1 are draft$ )\t seams4 ,we d ?is because x is f> easi] to add ! am\nt necess>y on diff]5t mat]ial ?an to draft x on ! patt]n4 ,,! ,,wai/1 ,,by ,,measure4 ,! measures we %all use are ! foll[+3 ,brea/1 #cf2 wai/1 #bd2 l5g? ( natural wai/1 #ae2 height "u arm1 #g2 front ( arm1 #aj2 wid? ( back1 #f2 front l5g?1 #ah4 ,9 draft+ ?is we drop proportion altoge!r & use only ! measures z /at$ above to get all po9ts on ! draft4 ,all ! l9es & curves w come out 9 simil> mann] to ! previ\s draft4 ,fig4 #d />ts by draw+ a l9e ,o-,f & ,o-,n2 g d[n f ,o ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*1 & 9 f ,o1 to ,a1 two in*es1 & curve f to ,a4 ,f d[n1 measure ! l5g? ( back #ae in*es to ,f1 & at ,f draw a l9e ov] to ! front & g 9 #a in*es & m>k a po9t4 ,f to ?is la/ po9t draw a /raight l9e = ! c5tre ( ! back4 ,up f ,f measure ! height "u arm #g in*es to ,e1 & f ,e draw a l9e to ! front4 ,f ,z to ,d is "o-half ( ! brea/-measure1 & draw ! front l9e up & d[n4 ,also measure f ,z to ,s1 ! actual wid? ( ! back1 & f ,z to ,h1 ! front ( ! arm1 #aj in*es1 or ! blade measure :i* is tak5 f ! front ( ! arm ov] ! blade to ! c5tre ( ! back4 ,at ,s & ,h draw l9es up4 ,9 ! middle betwe5 ,o & ,e m>k po9t ,b1 & 9 ! middle betwe5 ,b & ,e po9t ,c1 & draw ! l9es across z %[n4 7,see ,fig4 #d47 ,f :]e ! l9es cross at ,j1 draw "o across to top ( back at ,a1 & curve f ,a to ,g :i* po9t is "o-half in* above ,j4 ,beg9n+ at ,g curve arm-hole pa/ ,j1 a trifle inside ( l9e betwe5 ,j & ,r1 & f !nce to ,v4 ,?is la/ is midway betwe5 ,s & ,h4 ,make ! bottom ( ! back #a in*es wide4 ,?is is only a m$ium1 z x c be made #a in* or #b in*es1 :i* only places ! seam ei!r fur!r back or m to ! front4 ,!n f ,r draw a /raight l9e to #a & slightly curve a l9e drawn to #ai & to #b4 ,betwe5 #ai & #b curve m t[>ds c5tre ( back4 ,a few trials w enable y to make a nice %ap$ curve4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,f #b on back to side body at #a is #a in*1 & curve f #ai to #a4 ,f ,v1 /raight d[n1 draw a l9e to #d & curve a trifle on ei!r side ( x1 also sep>ate side-body f ,x to #c4 ,po9t ,x is midway betwe5 l9e ,r & ,v & ! di/ance betwe5 #c & #d is ab\t in* m ?an ,x to ,v4 ,take ( ! brea/1 equal to #c in*es1 & place x f po9t ,n to ,p & use po9t ,n z a pivot & sweep f ,p to #ae4 ,at a po9t on wai/-l9e directly "u ,h1 measure up pa/ ,p1 %\ld] po9t1 ! front l5g?1 :i* is 9 our measure #ah1 d$uct+ ! wid? ( top ( back1 & :]ev] x rea*es to is po9t ,p4 ,?is may1 sometimes1 :5 ! p]son is erect1 rea* above ! l9e2 & aga91 on holl[ or /oop+ %\ld]s1 be bel[ x4 ,:]ev] x rea*es is ! %\ld] po9t1 & :5 x goes above we sweep at a po9t above ,n ev5 ) %\ld] = neck1 & ( c\rse1 %\ld x be bel[ ! l9e1 at a po9t bel[ ,n1 s t ! neck w keep its %ape to h>monize ) ! height ( %\ld] po9t4 ,illu/ration ,:]ev] po9t ,p is locat$ by measure1 above or bel[1 or on ! l9e1 />t to draw ! l9e to ,b1 on back1 = height ( %\ld]1 & place ! wid? ( back %\ld] f ,a to ,g on ?is l9e f ,p to get po9t #ag4 ,!n f #ag curve above x ab\t "o-qu>t] in* to ,p1 & also draw ! arm-hole1 go+ inside ( l9e ,h1 b nev] ov] "o-half in*1 to ,v1 z %[n on ! diagram4 ,drop a trifle f #ag to #bj4 ,at ! front1 draw ! l9e />t+ inside ( /raight l9e ( #ae "o-qu>t] ( an in*1 gradually curv+ out till at ,d we h "o-half in* curve1 & !nce go+ 9 aga9 to ! l9e at wai/1 po9t ,u4 ,f ,u g d[n #a in* to ,t1 & draw a l9e across to #ab4 ,measure ! di/ance ,f to ,u1 leav+ out ! op5+ betwe5 #a & #b1 :i* 9 ?is case w be #af in*es4 ,n[1 "o-half ( wai/-measure1 #ab in*es1 f #af leaves #d in*es1 :i* mu/ be tak5 out 9 d>ts4 ,to produce ! d>ts 9 ! "r place we proce$ z foll[s3 fir/ locate a po9t 9 ! middle betwe5 ,h & ,d :i* gives #ab1 & 9 ! c5tre betwe5 ,h & #ab1 ano!r :i* is m>k$ #ac4 ,f ,u to #e place #b in*es1 z we nev] wi% to h ! fir/ d>t any ne>] to ! front1 !n f #e to #f is "o d>t ( #b in*es or "o-half ( ! am\nt to be tak5 out4 ,betwe5 ! d>ts leave ?ree-f\r?s in*1 & !n place ano!r d>t ( #b in*es f #g to #h4 ,9 ! c5tre ( ea* d>t m>k a po9t & draw l9es f ^! to #ab & #ac4 ,"o-?ird ( ! height "u arm f #ac locates #bc :ile #bb is "o-half in* l[]1 & />t+ f ea* ( ! la/ po9ts curve ! d>ts z %[n4 ,x w be se5 t !y are drawn v po9t$ at top1 & t bel[ ! wai/-l9e !y run /raight d[n )\t any spr+ be+ giv54 ,f #a curve to #c & #d2 b betwe5 #c & #d x runs a trifle above wai/-l9e1 & !n f #d to #ab on l[] l9e4 ,po9t #aj is a little l[] ?an ! l9e1 :ile x re/s on l9e1 f #i to ,t4 ,?is f9i%es ! draft by measure1 & we h only to add t ?is1 z well z ! prec$+1 requires ! add+ ( seams accord+ to mat]ial us$4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,l>ge ,,size ,,wai/4 ,9 us+ ?is by measure1 draft 9 ! same way z expla9$ 9 ano!r article1 ! diff]5ce be+ only t ! measure w be l>g]4 ,we w expla9 ?is by ! ,proportionate ,me?od3 ,brea/1 #dd in*es2 wai/1 #ca2 draft+ size1 #ba1 or equal to a brea/-measure ( #dc in*es4 ,x %\ld be und]/ood t ?is la/ size ( brea/ is us$ only = ! height1 :ile ! orig9al brea/-measure mu/ always be us$ = ! wid?4 ,fir/ draw l9e ,o-,c1 m>k po9t ,o1 & draw a l9e at "r angles ) ,o-,c1 to ,a2 f ,o g d[n ?ree-f\r?s in* to po9t #g1 ! top ( back4 ,f #g to ,c is ! l5g? ( ! wai/1 #ae or #af in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,at ! wai/ g 9 #a in* f ,c2 draw a /raight l9e f #g to #a = ! c5tre ( ! back4 ,f ,o g d[n to po9t ,b1 "o-qu>t] ( ! draft+ size1 :i* is1 9 ?is case1 #aj in*es2 ?is is "o-qu>t] ( #dc1 z on l>ge sizes ! l5g? is r$uc$ 9 ! %\ld]s to ! draft+ size4 ,n[ draw a l9e f ,b to ,h1 & "o f ,c to ,j4 ,po9t ,d is 9 ! c5tre betwe5 ,o & ,b2 !n f ,d draw a l9e ov] to ,k4 ,f ,b to ,g is "o-?ird & #a in*1 equal to #h in*es1 & f ,g draw a l9e up4 ,f ,g to ,e is "o-f\r?1 equal to #e in*es2 "h also draw a l9e up4 ,f ,n1 on ! back l9e1 to ,h1 place "o-half ( ! full brea/-measure1 :i* is #bb in*es2 & at ?is po9t draw a l9e up & d[n1 ?us mak+ ! front l9e ,a-,j4 ,f ,o to #f is "o-eigh? ( brea/1 #b in*es4 ,f #g curve to #f1 = ! top ( back1 at neck2 f ,k to #f draw a l9e1 & at #f beg9 to curve ! l9e = %\ld]1 rais+ x "o-half in* above ,k to #h4 ,also comm5ce to curve ! arm-hole f #h1 go+ inside ( l9e "o-eigh? in* at #af1 & !nce pa/ #ae & #d to ,e4 ,midway betwe5 ,k & ,g is po9t #af4 ,/>t to make ! seam = ! back f #af1 pa/ #ag to #a2 ! la/ po9t is #a in* f #a4 ,:5 x is desir$ to produce a n>r[ %\ld]1 raise ! seam above #h "o-half in*1 & back f #h fully #a in*1 & draw ! arm-hole f #ah to #af4 ,to draw ! fir/ side-body1 place #a in* f #a to #b1 & curve ! l9e f #af to #ag2 !nce sep>ate & curve nicely to #b4 ,9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,g & ,e1 m>k po9t #d1 & draw a l9e /raight d[n1 :i* w be #e2 &1 9 ! middle1 betwe5 #ag & #d1 fix po9t #ae4 ,also take ! di/ance f #b to #e1 & fix a po9t 9 ! c5tre1 :i* w be #c1 & !n draw a l9e f #ae to #c2 curve a little on ea* side ( ^! two l9es1 z %[n4 ,9 produc+ ! front1 be v c>eful to foll[ ! in/ructions z "h giv53 ,f ,a to ,f is "o-six? ( ! brea/-measure1 #c in*es2 & ! same am\nt f ,a to ,i2 n[1 sweep f ,f to ,i1 us+ ,a z pivot2 f ,f to ,d draw a /raight l9e1 & place ! same di/ance1 z on ! back %\ld] f #f to #h1 on to ,f to #i1 & !n curve x a little above ! l9e at #bj2 f9i% ! arm-hole by curv+ x f #ai d[nw>ds pa/ ,e4 ,x w be se5 t x runs ov] & 9 front ( l9e ,e1 & "o-f\r? in* bel[ brea/-l9e at #d4 ,= ! front edge1 comm5ce "o-f\r? in* inside ( /raight l9e at ,i1 & g gradually out to "o-half in* at ,h1 & 9 aga9 until x t\*es l9e at ,j & #ad4 ,n[ to manage to fix ! d>ts3 ,measure f #a to #a-b1 to #c1 & #c to ,j2 ?is w give #ai in*es4 ,b z ! measure is only #ae1 "o-half ( #ca1 we take out ! diff]5ce betwe5 ^! two wid?s 9 d>ts4 ,?is am\nts to #b in*es1 :i* we take out 9 two d>ts ( #a in* ea*4 ,fir/ f9d ! c5tre betwe5 ,h & ,e1 :i* fixes po9t ,r2 & ! c5tre1 also1 betwe5 ,r & ,e1 :i* gives po9t ,p4 ,?is fir/ d>t comm5ces #b in*es f ,j4 ,!n put 9 "o d>t ( #a2 in*4 ,betwe5 ! d>ts1 let ! space be #a in*1 & !n place ! wid? ( ! o!r d>t1 :i* is also #a in*1 & fix a c5tre 9 ea* d>t4 ,f ,r draw a l9e ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! fir/ d>t1 & f ,p "o ?r\gh ! c5tre ( ! second2 !n curve ! l9es ( bo? d>ts l ^? on ! diagram4 ,! d>ts are />t$ two-?irds ( ! di/ance up "u ! arm1 b ! front "o is made "o-half in* %ort]4 ,f ,j g d[n #a in* & draw a l9e across to #aj4 ,! bottom ( ! wai/ is /raight f #ad to #ac4 ,at #ab beg9 "o-f\r? in* bel[ & draw to ! l9e at #aa4 ,f #aj1 also "o-f\r? in* bel[1 draw a curv$ l9e to #e1 rais+ to #c1 & back to #b4 ,:5 ! back has be5 n>r[$ on ! %\ld]s x becomes necess>y1 also1 to con=m ! front to x2 z we h rais$ above #h to #ah "o-half in*1 !re=e1 we mu/ r$uce ! %\ld] on ! front ! same am\nt we add$1 & x w br+ x to #ai4 ,!n ! wai/ is f9i%$4 ,let x aga9 be /at$ t seams mu/ be add$1 except 9 ! neck & arm-hole4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,l[ ,,neck ,,dress ,,wai/4 ,x w be se5 t ! g5]al arrangem5t ( ?is draft is ! same z all produc$ by ?is ,sy/em4 ,! po9t$ basque-l %ape at bottom is made to :atev] l5g? desir$1 only1 x w be notic$1 !y are made %ort on ! side j ov] ! hips4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,9 mak+ ^! wai/s l[ 9 ! neck1 ! fir/ po9t to be consid]$ is t !y rea* d[n l[] on ! %\ld]s1 &1 !re=e1 we h to draft !m s z to meet ?is requirem5t4 ,f ,s1 ! orig9al %ap$ draft1 we g out to #aj1 on l9e ,d-#aj1 #a to #a in*1 accord+ to ! l[ness ( op5+2 ! same is add$ f ,q to ,r1 & ! arm-hole draft$ f ^! two la/ po9ts4 ,n[1 decide h[ l[ x %\ld be op51 & draw ! curv$ l9es f ,t to ,q1 & f ,b to #i4 ,! /rap on %\ld] c be made #a or #b in*es wide4 ,if a %ort sleeve is want$ flatt5 ! sleeve-head ab\t ! same am\nt z 0 add$ to ! %\ld] ov] ,s to #aj4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,basque ,,patt]n4 ,?is figure repres5ts a %ort po9t$ basque z x c be produc$ by ?is ,sy/em--:e!r by proportion or by measure4 ,we h already fully expla9$ ! mann] ( produc+ all ! upp] portions ( ! draft 9 previ\s articles1 & x is n necess>y to g ov] x "h aga91 x be+ ! same z any o!r wai/4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,f ! wai/ d[n we place :atev] l5g? is want$ 9 ! back to get po9t ,j or l9e ,b4 ,f #a & #a l9es are drawn d[n1 & :atev] is put on f ,s to back l9e mu/ be also add$ f l9e at #cj to #bh4 ,illu/ration ,on a %ort basque ! back l9e does n t\* po9t ,j1 x hav+ less spr+1 & !re=e ! wid? ( back1 at ,s1 is only a little m ?an at ! wai/1 or ab\t "o-half in* on ea* side ( ! /raight l9es4 ,f ,j to #bh curve up1 to ta/e4 ,if want$ ) a high curve at side1 ov] ! hips1 x may rea* above #bh2 & :5 desir$ /raight ar\nd ! bottom draw x along bottom l9e1 or simil> to a jacket1 z %[n on o!r ,figures4 ,! side-body at bottom mu/ />t at ,s1 level ) #bh1 ris+ up t[>ds ,r4 ,q is ev5 ) ,r1 & f x to ,o draw ! l9e a little l[]4 ,po9t ,p is also level ) ,o2 !nce1 =w>d1 x is drawn s t ! front po9t is ei!r level ) ! back or long] po9t$1 z %[n on ! ,figure1 :]e x is two in*es l[]4 ,! d>ts are plac$ ! same z on a wai/4 ,b bel[ ! wai/ l9e ,f !y curve1 z %[n4 ,! be/ way to produce a good result is to draw /raight l9es d[n f #aa1 #ab1 #ac & #ad1 draw+ !m inside or outside ( ^! l9es1 z %[n4 ,x w ?us be se5 t #bc comes ne>ly 9 ! c5tre ( ! second d>t1 because m curve is "h ne$$ = ! hips1 :ile ! space betwe5 ! d>ts is drawn s t ! di/ance betwe5 #bd & #be is only a little m ?an at #ab to #ac4 ,9 ?is way1 :5 ! d>ts are sewn up !y w take ! %ape1 or ! seams w %ape !mselves l ! c5tre-piece betwe5 ! d>ts4 ,:5 divid+ ! side-body1 f #ah to #ai1 directly "u ! arm draw a /raight l9e d[n & let ! spr+ on ea* side ( ?is l9e be equal1 z ,p & ,o4 ,also take out ab\t "o-f\r? in* above ! wai/-l9e along ! side-body seams1 to curve !m m to ! %ape4 ,f #ae to #bj a /raight l9e is also drawn1 & an equal am\nt is put ea* side ( ?is l9e1 ov] ! hips1 to ,r & ,o4 ,x w be notic$ t po9t #ah is 9 ! middle1 betwe5 l9e ,e & ! l9e ,k1 or po9t ,s on ,fig4 #d2 & po9t #ae is midway betwe5 #ah & l9e ,k2 ! wid? ( ! side-body1 at ! wai/1 is made wid]2 ! l9e f #ah is always drawn /raight d[n1 !n divide ! di/ance f po9t #ai & #b1 ! c5tre ( :i* is #bj2 & f #ae ?r\gh #bj draw ! o!r l9e4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,polonaise4 ,?is is draft$ 9 ! same mann] z ! "o giv5 9 ,fig4 #g4 ,z1 h[ev]1 ?is is a long g>m5t ! am\nt ( drap]y mu/ be increas$2 !re=e bel[ ! hip l9e ,d we spr+ out till at bottom1 po9t ,f1 x am\nts to "o in*4 ,at #d !re is "o in* ov] l9e2 at #f1 on side-body1 "o in*2 !re draw a /raight l9e f #d d[n1 ?r\gh ?is in*1 & curve ! "o-half in* ov] x4 ,on ! side1 f #e to #g1 is #a in*es1 ! same at bottom4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,:]e #c & ,x1 ( =e-"p1 are locat$ lay ! side-body on top ( x1 #a re/+ on #c1 & po9t #c1 ( side-body1 re/+ on ,x1 !n f9i% ! l9e f ,x to #ad1 by ! way ! side-body lays1 & fix ! l5g? also by ! side-body4 ,put 9 two d>ts1 lett+ !m run only #d in*es bel[ ! hip l9e4 ,,figs4 #i ,,& #aj4 ,,! ,,sleeve4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,comm5ce by draw+ l9es ,o-,e & ,o-,f4 ,use ! arm-hole size to produce ! sleeve1 & g d[n f ,o to ,b "o-f\r? ( ?is2 ,a is 9 ! middle betwe5 ,o & ,b4 ,draw l9es across4 ,f ,o to ,f is "o-half ( arm-hole1 & f !re draw a l9e d[n to ,k4 ,f ,b to ,f draw a /raight l9e & halve x1 :i* w be po9t ,h2 & f ?is la/ also draw a %ort l9e at "r angles ) ! diagonal l9e f ,h to ,j4 ,measure ! l5g? ( l9e ,b-,f & take "o-?ird ( x & place x f ,h to ,j4 ,n[1 us+ ,j z pivot1 sweep f l9e at top1 po9t #d1 ar\nd to ! front & ! back2 f ,b curve l9e pa/ #e to ?is sweep4 ,:]e ! sweep crosses l9e at ,g draw a l9e d[n to ,k4 ,g d[n f ,b to ,c ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*1 & f "h measure ! l5g? ( arm to ,e4 ,m>k a po9t midway betwe5 ,b & ,e1 :i* gives ,d1 & draw a l9e across4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ! two p>allel l9es at back1 m>k a po9t f4 ,n[ lay ! squ>e 9 su* a position on ! patt]n t #e in*es w t\* po9t ,e & ! long arm w t\* f1 !n draw along ! bottom1 f ,e to ,n1 & to f4 ,illu/ration ,beg9 to curve f ,c1 pa/ ,l to f1 & curve to ,n4 ,g 9 f ,d #a in* & draw ! front-seam ( ! sleeve4 ,f ,x1 :]e ! curve /rikes l9e ,b1 beg9 to draw ! "u-sleeve p>allel ) upp] "p #f to #a4 ,measure f ,b ar\nd ! sleeve-head to ,c1 & apply numb] ( in*es obta9$ to ,x1 & measure pa/ #a t[>ds #c1 ! measure ( arm-hole1 & #b in*es m4 ,if ! upp]-sleeve measures #aa in*es place #aa on to ,x & measure #af in*es1 add+ #b in*es m to l9e at #c = a #af-sleeve4 ,:]ev] po9t #c is locat$ beg9 to draw back arm-seam to bottom by runn+ /raight d[n1 curv+ out to #b1 or z mu* inside ( l9e #g z f is outside ( x4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,draw ! l9e ,o-,g & ,o-,f4 ,f ,o to ,c g d[n "o-?ird1 less "o-half in*1 & draw l9e ov] to ,k4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,c & ,o1 draw also a l9e f ,b to ,h4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,f ,o to ,g is "o-half ( arm-hole size1 & draw a l9e f ,g d[nw>ds4 ,f ,c beg9 to curve ! sleeve-top pa/ ,i to ,h1 t\*+ ! top l9e at ,i4 ,f ,l to ,e apply ! l5g? ( sleeve4 ,make ,f #a in*es l[] d[n ?an ,e4 ,f ,e to ,n is an av]age ( #e in*es4 ,draw a l9e f ,h pa/ ,k to ,m & ,n1 curv+ x inside ( ,k ab\t "o-half in* & curve ! l9e only a trifle bel[ ! elb[4 ,g 9 f ,d #a in*1 & draw ! inside seam f ,c to ,e4 ,?is f9i%es ! upp]-sleeve4 ,= ! "u-sleeve draw f ,c1 curv+ "u /raight l9e to ,l1 !nce to ,j4 ,po9t ,j is #a in* inside ( ,h4 ,f ,j draw d[n to )9 "o-half in* ( ,m & to ,n4 ,! front-seam is ! same z ! upp]-sleeve f ,c to ,e & ,n4 ,9 draw+ any sleeve use ! measure ( ! arm-hole1 & be> 9 m9d t ?is mann] ( draft+ has ! seams already includ$4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,skirts4 ,cutt+ & mak+ a dress skirt1 ( any /yle & k9d1 is sometimes consid]$ ( v little importance4 ,by _m dressmak]s ! "w is entru/$ to inexp]i5c$ h&s & block$ out by a patt]n :i* w n fit ! =m4 ,_m f9e co/umes lack /yle because ! laws ( cutt+ skirts = ! diff]5t figures h n be5 obs]v$4 ,! fa%ion = ! pres5t1 & = "s "t pa/1 requires ! skirt to be fitt$ ) z mu* c>e z any o!r "p ( ! dress4 ,all fullness mu/ be s arrang$ z to fall into ! back bread?s ( ! tra94 ,! slop+ ( ! bottom mu/ be proportionate1 s z to give a /raight ev5 effect across ! front & sides & all[ ! tra9 to sudd5ly spr+ out at ! l[] "p ( ! back wid?s4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,! c>eful slop+ ( ! gores at ! sides causes ! tra9 to fall into a fan-l sweep4 ,! necessity ( f9e slopes1 & a diff]5ce ( ^? 9 diff]5t co/umes1 z well z = diff]5t figures1 w be readily appreciat$ :5 we obs]ve ! use = :i* ! dress is int5d$4 ,9 a walk+ dress1 z x %\ld be to be 9 h>mony ) /yle & ! pres5t dem&s ( fa%ion1 ! skirts %\ld adh]e closely all ar\nd ! front & sides1 leav+ :atev] fullness !re may be at ! back4 ,9 ord] to ga9 ?is1 d>ts are requir$ betwe5 ! bread?s1 :i* r$uce ! size ne$$ ov] ! hips d[n to ! size at wai/4 ,z ! hips proportionately increase at a giv5 ratio at ! sides x mu/ be evid5t t1 9 ord] t ! skirt may fall d[n fairly ov] ! hips1 ^! d>ts at side mu/ be l>g] !re1 :ile t[>ds ! front !y mu/ be small]4 ,! bottom %\ld h a regul> sweep4 ,?is sweep c be ga9$ ! easie/ by lay+ ! gores 9 a clos+ position on ! table1 draw+ a /raight l9e along ! c5tre ( ! front & ext5d+ upw>ds ab\t ! same l5g? z ! skirt4 ,at ! c5tre ( ! back bread? ano!r l9e is drawn f> en\gh up to cross ! fir/ l9e4 ,9 ?is %ape ! two l9es w\ld repres5t a cone2 at ! po9t atta* a /r+ to a p9 driv5 into ! table1 & ext5d+ ?is /r+ to ! l[] l5g? ( ! skirt sweep ar\nd ! bottom--?is w produce a correct effect 9 e case4 ,! front wid? is n[ cut wide en\gh s t only "o additional wid? is ne$$ at ea* side4 ,z we h already said1 mu* dep5ds ^u gor+ ! sides z reg>ds fitt+ ! hips1 b on /\t ladies extra c>e mu/ be tak5 t ! front be also suffici5t to cov] ! r\nd =m ( ! body4 ,! defect liable to occur 9 ?is po9t has ! same result z n slop+ en\gh at ! side = l>ge hips1 namely1 ! skirt w hit*-up on ! wai/-b&4 ,putt+ on a skirt to ! b& is ( equal importance4 ,a d>t 9 ! apron or front wid? gives suffici5t fullness ov] ! r\nd ( ! body 9 front2 s also d d>ts at side4 ,all ! re/ ( ! fullness %\ld be pleat$ or ga!r$ into ! few in*es left ( ! b& aft] ! front & sides h be5 sew$ to ! b&4 ,we %\ld n advise any "o to cut out a skirt1 :e!r %ort or ) tra91 ) out a good patt]n1 unless !y und]/& h[ to draft "o & "k ! po9ts ( ! diff]5t %apes 9 gores4 ,su* skirt patt]ns we are prep>$ to =w>d to any address1 on application1 b 9 ord] t /ud5ts may acquire an idea ( h[ to cut !m1 ,fig4 #aa w %[ ! g5]al =m & %ape ( !m4 ,draw l9e ,a1 & make x #de in*es long1 & m>k (f all ! di/ances on ! l9e1 z %[n by ! numb] ( in*es giv5 at all ^! po9ts2 draw l9es across at "r angles to l9e ,a4 ,draw a l9e f po9t #f to #ab & curve x to )9 "o-half in* ( #f1 & !n curve slightly "o-half in* bel[ l9e at c5tre to #f on l9e ,a4 ,?is f9i%es top ( front bread?2 connect #ab & #de1 :i* f9i%es ! bottom4 ,f9i% ! top ( side-bread? by draw+ l9es f #g to #aa1 curv+ ^! l9es l ,figure2 at ! bottom1 curve f #ab to #db4 ,connect po9ts #cb & #db1 also #bb & #ab1 by /raight l9es1 :i* f9i%es ! back "p2 ?is w give a skirt #ch in*es long & ! prevail+ wid?4 ,lay ! front "p1 l9e ,a1 on ! fold ( ! goods4 ,9 sew+ to ! b& ! front & side-bread?s are left pla9 :ile ! back is pleat$ 9 ?ree or f\r l>ge pleats4 ,,figs4 #ab1 #ac1 #ad4 ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,x w be se5 t e %ape & /yle ( g>m5t mu/ be draft$ 9 ! same mann] z ! pr9ciple employ$ 9 ! con/ruction ( ! wai/-body or basque4 ,we fir/ comm5ce to draw ! back l9e ,b & ,o to ,f 7,fig4 #ab74 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,f ,o d[n1 on ! fir/ l9e1 place ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*1 & f ,o ov] to ,f1 "o-eigh? ( ! brea/-measure1 or simply #b in*es1 on av]age size4 ,/>t+ at 1 measure d[n to ,c1 ! l5g? ( natural wai/1 & to ,d1 ! full p>ts ( ! hips2 also to ,e ! l5g? want$4 ,f ,c up to ,b place ! height "u ! arm4 ,n[ at e "o ( ^! po9ts draw l9es across1 all at "r angles ) ! fir/ l9e4 ,g 9 f ,c to ,n #a in*1 & !n draw a l9e f 1 at top1 to ,n1 & f ! la/ po9t to ,e1 & curve ! back-l9e1 z %[n f 1 pa/ ,r4 ,f ,n to ,m make ! wid? ( back1 at wai/1 #b in*es or m1 z desir$4 ,/>t+ at ,r1 place ! wid? ( back to ,g & draw a l9e up to ,s4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,o & ,b1 fix po9t ,a1 & f !re draw a l9e ov] to ,j4 ,f ! po9t :]e l9es ,a-,j & ,g-,s cross draw a l9e to ,f4 ,raise above ,j "o-half in* to ,s & curve ! %\ld] f ,f to ,s2 !n f ,s g inside ( l9e at ,j & curve ! arm-hole ( ! back to ,i4 ,?is la/ po9t is midway betwe5 ,j & ,g4 ,f ,i draw a l9e to ,n1 !n comm5ce at ,i & draw l9e = ! side-seam to #h1 go+ inside ( /raight l9e a trifle & !nce ) a decid$ curve to ,m4 ,draw a "r-angle l9e ) ! wai/-l9e ,f d[n to #c f ,n1 & to #d f #b4 ,n[ :atev] ! di/ance ,e is drawn f #c mu/ be plac$ f #d to #e1 & ! back may be f9i%$ by draw+ ! l9e f #b to #e4 ,9 case x is desir$ to make a n>r[ back1 po9t ,e may be ne>] to #c2 9 su* case po9t #e w\ld also be ne>] to #d4 ,cut ! back out1 & 9 ord] to draw ! side-body lay x on ! pap] 9 su* a mann] t !re w be room en\gh to cut x out )\t piec+4 ,,! ,,side-,,body4--,,fig4 #ac4 ,l9es ,d-,f & ,o are ext5d$ ov]4 ,f #b to #aj is #a in* 9 e case4 ,draw f ,i1 along ! back1 to #h1 & f !nce beg9 to sep>ate f ! back & curve to #aj & d[n to #f1 :i* is ! po9t on ! back :]e l9e ,o & ! l9e f #b d[nw>ds cross4 ,f #f d[n give ?is l9e a nice curve1 n spr++ out too mu* nor mak+ x too flat--a m$ium is :at is desir$4 ,f ,b to ,k is "o-f\r? ( ! brea/-measure4 ,curve f ,i to ,h & ,k4 ,ab\t #a in* inside ( ,k draw a l9e d[n to ,l1 :i* %\ld make ! side-body z wide f #h to ,h z #aj to ,l4 ,at "r angles ) wai/-l9e draw "o d[n f #aj to #c1 & ano!r f ,l to #d4 ,n[ :atev] ! di/ance is f #c to #e %\ld be plac$ f #d to #f1 & !n ! seam f ,l is drawn pa/ #aa to #f4 ,make ! l5g? at bottom "o-half in* long] at #e to #f2 also notice t ! di/ance f #g to #aa may be a little m ?an t f #i to #f1 z m ease ov] ! hip1 at side1 is desirable4 ,,! ,,front4--,,fig4 #ad4 ,all ! l9es are ext5d$ ov] on ! pap]1 & ! side-body & back are laid 9 ! position z :5 !y 7 draft$1 & z %[n4 ,fir/ measure f ,b to ,v1 "o-half ! brea/-measure1 & draw l9e ,a up & d[n4 ,f ,b to ,r is ! measure to ! front ( ! arm1 :]e a l9e is drawn up4 ,f ,p back1 place "o-six? ( ! brea/ to ,n1 "h draw a l9e up & d[n1 z %[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,measure up f /> on side1 m>k$ ,z1 to l9e at ,n1 ! front l5g? less ! wid? ( ! top ( back1 & :]e ?is rea*es on ! l9e fix ! height4 ,f ?is height draw a l9e to ,a1 :i* gives ! height ( %\ld]4 ,f ,p z pivot sweep f ,n to #ba = neck4 ,place ! l5g? ( back %\ld] f ,f to ,s on to ,n1 on l9e ,n1 & :]e x rea*es w be po9t #bb4 ,drop "o-half in* bel[ l9e & curve f #bb to #bc1 :i* is "o-f\r? above ! l9e1 to ,n4 ,also curve arm-hole f #bb ?r\gh ,r to ,h4 ,draw ! front l9e "o-half in* inside at #ba1 curv+ outside "o-half in* ne> ,v1 com+ back to l9e at ,u1 & outside "o-half in* at bottom to po9t #bj4 ,f ,h1 ?r\gh ,l1 draw l9e to #aa4 ,:atev] ! di/ance f #aa to #bd is place ov] f #aa to #ac & !n curve f ,l1 ?r\gh #ab1 to #ac4 ,sweep ! bottom f #ac by a po9t #a in* back ( ,n & flatt5 ?is curve ne> #ad4 ,midway betwe5 ,r & ,v fix po9t #b1 & midway betwe5 #b & ,r po9t #a4 ,measure ! di/ance f ! front at ,u to #aj & f #b to ,c4 ,d$uct ! half size ( wai/ f ?is la/ & ! rema9d] is tak5 out 9 d>ts4 ,f ,u to #ab is #b in*es4 ,f #ab to #i is "o-half ( :at is to be tak5 out 9 d>ts4 ,f #i to #h is always ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*4 ,f #h to #g is ano!r d>t4 ,fix a po9t 9 ! c5tre ( ! d>ts & draw a /raight l9e f #a & #b to #f & #e2 & at "r angles ) wai/-l9e draw l9es f c5tre ( d>t d[n to ! bottom4 ,n[1 "o-?ird ( ! height "u arm1 d[n1 fix po9t #c1 & make #d "o-half in* m4 ,draw ! d>ts f #c & #d ?r\gh ! po9ts1 z %[n1 to #ae & #ad4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,,d\ble-,,brea/$ ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,illu/ration ,draft by measure--brea/1 #cf2 wai/1 #bd2 & hip1 #dj4 ,l5g? to wai/ #ad1 & full l5g?1 #bf4 ,by us+ ^! measures we w endeavor to %[ h[ to draft a jacket1 ea* piece sep>ately1 ?us do+ away ) ! ov]-lapp+ ( patt]ns z x occurs :5 x is draft$ altoge!r1 z 9 our previ\s articles on proportionate cutt+4 ,x is ! same pr9ciple1 b m practical1 z a patt]n c ?us be cut :ole 9 ! skirt4 ,comm5ce by draw+ ! back con/ruction l9e f ,o to ,l & ,o to ,p4 ,f ,o d[n is ?ree-f\r?s in* to ,t4 ,f ,o to ,e is "o-f\r? ( brea/--#i in*es4 ,f ,t measure d[n to ! wai/ #ad in*es1 & ! full l5g? to ,l1 #bf in*es1 & f ,o ov] on top l9e to #e two in*es1 & curve ! top1 ,t1 to #e4 ,b is midway betwe5 ,o & ,e4 ,k is #f in*es bel[ ! wai/2 n[ draw all ! l9es across4 ,at ,f g 9 #a in* to back1 & draw a curv$ l9e f ! c5tre seam ( ! back1 f ,t to #a1 & spr+ out ?ree-f\r?s in* at #i1 !nce to ,l4 ,f ,e to #g is "o-?ird & "o in*1 equal to #g in*es4 ,draw a l9e up f #g to #c1 & "o f #e to #c4 ,raise above #c "o-half in* to #d1 !n curve ! %\ld]-seam ( ! back2 =m also ! curv$ l9e f #d to #f4 ,po9t #f is midway betwe5 #c & #g4 ,make ! wid? ( ! back at wai/ #b in*es1 & f #b draw a /raight l9e d[n to ! bottom4 ,n[ curve ! side seam f #f pa/ #b to #aj at bottom1 :i* po9t is ?ree-f\r?s ( an in* outside ( ! /raight l9e1 also connect ,l & #aj by a l9e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ae ,,! ,,side-,,body4 ,cut out ! back & lay x on ! pap] 9 su* a mann] t ! brea/-l9e w lay on ! same l9e fur!r t[>ds ! front1 s t !re w be suffici5t room at ! bottom to draft out ! side-body :ole4 ,n[1 fir/ draw along ! edge ( ! back f #f to #b2 g 9 at #b "o in*1 & curve f ! blade d[n to #ac4 ,at #ac draw a /raight l9e d[n1 & curve out f #ac to #ah2 ?is la/ w be exactly und]nea? po9t #h ( ! back1 & f "h to ! bottom draw x ) a slight curve to #bj1 :i* is ! same l5g? z po9t #aj ( ! back4 ,f #ad to #ac is #b in*es1 & make ! di/ance f #aa to #ab ! same2 n[ draw a /raight l9e f #ab to #ad1 & d[n to ! bottom4 ,g out f #ae to #af "o in*1 & curve seam f #ad to #ai1 :i* %\ld n be ov] #a in* outside ( /raight l9e4 ,draw l9e f #bj to #ai4 ,,! ,,front4 ,lay ! side-body on brea/-l9e & back 9 position aga9/ side-body1 s t ! brea/-l9e ( ea* lays correct & /raight1 !n measure f ,i on c5tre ( ! back to ! c5tre ( ! front ,d1 half-brea/1 or #ah in*es2 at ?is la/ po9t draw a l9e up & d[n = front l9e4 ,illu/ration ,po9t #ab ( ! side-body w n[ be ! same z po9t #ba ( ! front2 draw d[n to #bg a l9e ) a slight curve to %ape 9 at wai/2 also draw a /raight l9e d[n f #bg to #ce at bottom4 ,f ,p to ,c is "o-six?1 or #c in*es1 & ! same to #bc1 n[ sweep ! neck f ,p4 ,f ,c1 :i* is "o-half in* above ! top l9e = erect or ord9>y builds1 on ! l9e draw "o to ,b on ! back4 ,n[ measure ! l5g? ( %\ld] on ! back f #e to #d1 & place ! same f ,c to #bb1 & curve a little above x1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 #ae4 ,f ,g on side-body =w>d to front ( arm is "o-f\r?1 or #d in*es1 :]e a l9e is drawn f ,h2 !n f9i% arm-hole f #bb to ,h & #ba4 ,f9i% ! side-seam by go+ out at #ca #a in* to #cc1 & curve seam to #cd2 also locate ! l5g? by lay+ ! side-body1 po9t #ab1 on #ba1 & :]e #ai comes is #cd4 ,f ,c1 by #cd1 sweep ! bottom ( front & /raight5 ?is "s 9 ! c5tre4 ,at ! c5tre ( brea/-l9e1 beyond ,d1 put "o-half ( brea/1 & curve ! front l9e f #bc to wai/ at ,s1 :]e x comes back to ! /raight l9e1 & !nce to ! bottom at #cj1 :]e x is "o-half in* outside ( x4 ,= a d\ble-brea/$ jacket make ! lap #b in*es at brea/1 #b at wai/1 & #b at bottom4 ,:atev] ! size ( ! draft at wai/1 f po9ts ,s to #a on back1 exce$s ! actual measure mu/ be tak5 out 9 d>ts4 ,9 ?is ,figure we take out "o d>t only1 />t+ 9 ! c5tre1 ,j1 :i* is betwe5 ,h & ,d1 & take out betwe5 po9ts #be & #bf1 ! full am\nt :i* w be ab\t #b or #c in*es1 />t+ ! d>t at #bd1 two-?irds above #be1 & f9i%+ ab\t #d in*es bel[ ! hip-l9e4 ,9 case two d>ts are pref]r$ !y are put 9 z already %[n 9 previ\s ,figures4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,?is %[s ! mann] ( draft+ a jacket ) an extra piece "u ! arm & only "o d>t 9 ! front4 ,! correctness ( ! l9es1 & ! simplicity ( ! process1 w be ( mu* b5efit to our /ud5ts4 ,?is me?od is ! same z we h giv5 9 sev]al diff]5t /yles1 & !re=e x is draft$ 9 a simil> mann]4 ,x requires only "o me?od to draft all k9ds ( g>m5ts1 & our aim 9 giv+ ! diff]5t %apes is to famili>ize our read]s ) its application to a v>iety ( %apes & /yles1 s t :atev] g>m5t !y may be call$ to cut !y w be able to d x4 ,illu/ration ,let u take a size--#cf brea/1 #bd wai/1 ) a l5g? ( #cj in*es1 & a wai/ rea*+ d[n f neck #ae in*es4 ,9 draft+1 fir/ draw ! l9e ,o-,f4 ,f ,o g d[n ?ree-f\r?s in* = ! top ( ! back4 ,f ! top ( ! back to ,d is ! l5g? to ! wai/1 #ae in*es2 f ! same po9t d[n to ! bottom ( ! g>m5t measure #cj in*es to ,f4 ,at ,d g 9 to po9t #ad #a in*4 ,!n f ! top ( ! back to #ad draw a /raight l9e1 & also draw "o f #ad to ,f1 curve slightly ov] ! l9e bel[ #ad1 pa/ #bj1 to ,f4 ,make ! wid? f #ad to #b two in*es1 & run a l9e p>allel ) back-l9e f #b to #bi1 & curve x a trifle1 z %[n on ! ,figure4 ,f ,o g d[n to ,c "o-qu>t] ( ! brea/1 :i* is #i in*es1 & draw a l9e across4 ,draw a l9e f ,o ov] to ,k at "r angles ) ! back-l9e4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,o & ,c1 fix a po9t m>k$ ,b & draw a l9e ov] to ,n4 ,f ,c to ,g is "o-?ird brea/ & #a in*1 equal to #g in*es1 & draw a l9e at "r angles ) l9e ,c-,g4 ,f ,g to ,h is "o-f\r? brea/1 equal to #d in*es1 !re draw a l9e at "r angles ) ! "o "u arm4 ,f #a1 c5tre ( back1 to ,j1 at ! front ( ! brea/1 place "o-half ( ! brea/-measure1 equal to #ah in*es1 & at ,j draw a "r angle l9e up & d[n l l9e ,k-,j & ,s4 ,f ,o to #ac is #b in*es4 ,f ,n to #ac draw a l9e1 & !n1 comm5c+ at #ac1 curve ! %\ld]1 lett+ x rise above ! la/ l9e "o-half in* to #ad4 ,/>t+ ?ree-f\r?s in* inside ( l9e ,g beg9 to curve ! arm-hole pa/ #ab to #ag & ,h4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,n & ,g1 fix ! po9t to />t seams f = ! back4 ,draw l9e f !nce pa/ #ai to #b & #bi--?is makes ! back ) n>r[ %\ld]s4 ,to draw ! fir/ side-body place f #b to #c "o in*1 curve ! l9e f #ai to #c1 gradually beg9n+ to sep>ate bel[ #ai )\t curv+ too mu*1 c>e be+ tak5 to get a neat curve4 ,bel[ #c curve t[>d ! back till at hip1 #ba1 x w meet ! back1 & !nce d[nw>ds1 till at ! bottom x w ov]-lap ! back #a in* to #cj4 ,make ! wid? ( side-body at ! top any di/ance desir$1 say #c in*es1 & make x ! same at wai/1 or f #c to #d1 #c in*es4 ,!n curve f #ag to #d4 ,lay a long /raight-edge1 clos+ at #ag1 & ?ree-f\r?s in* f po9t #d2 :ile 9 ?is position m>k a l9e along x f ! hip-l9e d[nw>d1 & connect x by a curve f #d to #bd4 ,g 9 f #d to #e a di/ance ( ?ree-f\r?s in*1 & curve f #ag to #e1 b be c>eful to comm5ce to sep>ate side-body only #a in* bel[ #ag4 ,lay a /raight-edge1 z be=e1 at #ag1 & ?ree-f\r?s in* f #e1 s t x w lay t[>ds front1 !n f hip d[nw>ds draw a l9e to ! bottom & f9i% by curv+ f #e to meet ?is at hip1 #bc4 ,f #ag to #ah may be only #a or #b in*es1 accord+ to ! size--#b in*es w be suffici5t = a #cf brea/4 ,draw a /raight l9e to #f & take out a slight curve to %ape x to ! =m4 ,aga91 lay a /raight-edge aga9/ #ah1 & ?ree-f\r?s in* f #f1 & m>k along x f ! hips d[nw>d2 curve f #f to hip4 ,comm5c+ at #ah1 curve ! front to #g1 tak+ out "o-half in*1 !n lay a /raight-edge aga9/ #ah1 & ?ree-f\r?s in* f #g m>k along x bel[ ! hips & f9i% ! curve f #g to #be4 ,to produce ! front1 place f ,k to ,p "o-six? ( brea/1 equal to #c in*es1 also ! same f ,k to #af4 ,f ,p to ,b draw a l9e1 !n place ! same di/ance z on ! back %\ld] f #ac to #bd on to ,p to produce po9t #ae1 or ! l5g? ( front %\ld]1 curve x above ?is l9e1 & at #ae drop x "o-half in* bel[4 ,at #ae curve ! arm-hole to ,h1 go+ outside ( ! l9e en\gh to give ! arm-hole a good %ape1 b "u no consid]ation g beyond po9t ,h--r g inside4 ,curve ! front-l9e "o-f\r? in* inside ( #af1 & outside at ,j "o-half in*1 & com+ back to ,r1 :]e x %\ld spr+ out to ! bottom "o-half in* at ,s4 ,add beyond la/ curve #a in* = ! lap1 on a s+le-brea/$ jacket1 all ! way d[n4 ,measure f #ad to #b1 #c to #d1 #e to #f1 & #g to ,r1 :i* w be ab\t #ae in*es2 b z ! wai/ mu/ be #ab in*es1 or "o-half ( #bd1 we mu/ take out ! diff]5ce 9 a d>t1 :i* is #c in*es4 ,divide ! space betwe5 ,h & ,j :i* gives po9t ,i1 & f ?is draw a /raight l9e d[n4 ,g d[n f ,i #b in*es to #ag4 ,on ea* side ( ! l9e at #i place "o-half ( ! d>t1 #a in*1 !n curve f #ag to #h1 #bg & #ce2 also f ! same po9t to #aj1 #bh & #cf4 ,at ! bottom x %\ld be ?ree-f\r?s in*4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,! bottom ( ! fir/ side-body mu/ be "o-half in* long] ?an ! back2 ! second ! same l5g? z ! fir/2 & ! front mu/ />t at ! same l5g? z ! second1 & curve =w>d #a in* bel[ l9e #cc to #cg4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,,%ort ,,jacket4 ,?is gives a %ort jacket1 ( a neat1 peculi> %ape4 ,z reg>ds ! d>ts all po9ts are ! same z giv5 9 ,fig4 #ah1 except t in/ead ( putt+ 9 two side-bodies we only cut a d>t out "u ! arm1 & "o across ! front1 bo? be+ equal1 ( a size requir$ to make ! wai/ lay close4 ,! d>t 9 front is />t$ f ,h & runs into ! pocket4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,! back is made #d in*es wide at ! wai/ & wide en\gh at ! bottom to h>monize ) x4 ,po9t ,f is ! hip4 ,any sleeve cut to ! size ( arm-hole w g ) ?is4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,,j]sey ,,bl\se4 ,draw l9e ,o-,j & ,o-,f4 ,f ,o to ,d is "o-f\r? ( brea/4 ,f ,o to #bj is ?ree-f\r?s in*4 ,f ,o to ,d take "o-half ! di/ance to get po9t ,b1 & 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,b & ,d1 is po9t ,c4 ,f #bj to ,e is l5g? ( back & to ,f ! full l5g?4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,g 9 f ,e #a in* & draw ! back-l9e f #bj to #a & to ,f4 ,f ,o is #b in*es = top ( back to #b4 ,f ,d is "o-?ird ( brea/ & #a in* to ,g4 ,draw a l9e up f ,g to #f4 ,f #f draw "o to #b & curve #a in* above x at #a4 ,curve arm-hole f #a ?r\gh #i to #aj4 ,f ,g to ,h is "o-f\r? ( brea/--#d in*es on a #cf brea/4 ,draw a l9e up4 ,f back1 ne> ,d1 to ,k is "o-half ( brea/4 ,draw l9e up & d[n4 ,f ,j back to ,i is "o-six? ( brea/1 & ! same d[n to #c4 ,f ,i to #f draw a l9e4 ,curve above l9e at #ah "o-half in* = front %\ld]1 & curve ! arm-hole f #ah to #ag1 & ,h to #aj4 ,po9t #aj is ab\t #a in* f ,g4 ,make ! wid? ( back #e in*es f #a & #i in*es to po9t #aj1 & #aj in*es at bottom4 ,!n curve ! side-seam at #aj to #e & ,u4 ,f ,n1 at front ( ! wai/1 g 9 #c in*es1 to #af #d in*es1 & to #d #f in*es4 ,draw a /raight l9e up & d[n ?r\gh #af1 & =m ! d>t1 f #bj1 ?r\gh #c & #d1 to #e & #f4 ,lay ! back on ! front to meet at #aj1 #e on ,v1 #h on ,u1 to get ! "r curve = ! side seam4 ,measure ! wai/ & make ! di/ance at ,v to correspond ) x4 ,us+ ,i z pivot sweep f #h = ! bottom ( ! front4 ,add "o-half in* button-/&1 & #a in* on ! side ! buttons are sew$ on4 ,buttons %\ld be #a in* ap>t4 ,! ,j]sey is f9i%$ ) /&+ coll>4 ,?is patt]n is int5d$ only = goods :i* are ela/ic--l /ock9et or twe$4 ,! seams 9 ! d>t & at side %\ld be /ret*$ some:at 9 press+1 ?us all[+ !m to fit clos] to ! =m4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,,girl',s ,,sack4 ,illu/ration ,?is is a sack = a "y girl ( size #ca brea/1 close-fitt+4 ,! figure illu/rates a v jaunty & com=table jacket4 ,= ! ,fall ,season x %\ld be made ( heavy ribb$ cloak+1 ( a d>k %ade ( grey1 & an extra neat f9i% is obta9$ by b9d+ x ) a braid ( a d>k] %ade1 & buttons to mat* ! braid4 ,x has eight buttons 9 front1 is cut s+le-brea/$1 ) a v small turn-ov] lapel1 :i* all[s x to be button$ up close to ! neck4 ,a side edge is imitat$ on ! back by braid1 & ?ree buttons put on x4 ,! full-size patt]n may be cut by foll[+ ! ,figure1 z repres5t$1 us+ in*es = e numb] m>k$ out4 ,9 ord] t ?is may be readily und]/ood we w g ov] ?is mann] ( do+ x aga91 s t our read]s :o desire to take !m (f may n make any mi/akes4 ,fir/ draw a l9e on ! edge ( pap]1 & draw out ! back fir/1 by fix+ a po9t at ! top4 ,o is ! />t+ po9t4 ,f ,o g d[n 9 in*es z indicat$ by ! po9ts m>k$ 1 #b1 #e1 #ac1 #bj & #cd4 ,draw l9es across f ^! po9ts & apply ! numb]s on ! ,figure to ^! l9es4 ,:5 all ^! po9ts are fix$ connect ! po9ts by l9es1 :i* w =m ! outl9es ( ! back4 ,= ! side-body use ! same process & y w h ! full size4 ,x c be made d\ble-brea/$ by add+ #a in* 9 front ( ! brea/ all ! way d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,braid$ ,,jacket4 ,?is ,figure repres5ts a fa%ionable /yle ( close-fitt+ jackets = ,spr+ we>4 ,!y are made s+le-brea/$1 hav+ ! buttons close toge!r1 & h ! appe>ance ( a ,j]sey4 ,! same may be made d\ble-brea/$ by ! addition ( #b in*es to ! front4 ,9 trimm+ !y may be pla91 ) no?+ b small flat la/+1 or a r\nd cro*et button4 ,braid 9 milit>y /yle may be us$1 or a simple b9d+4 ,! ,figure is drawn f a patt]n ( a #cf brea/1 #be wai/2 ! l5g? may be regulat$ to ta/e4 ,9 draft+ ?is patt]n use in*es = all ! figures on ! draft4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,,d\ble-,,brea/$ ,,cut-,,away ,,jacket4 ,?is gives an elegant & v /yli% jacket4 ,! front is d\ble-brea/$ t[>ds ! top ) a broad1 %>p lap1 :ile at ! wai/ only "o button is us$4 ,9 ord] to enl>ge ! draft to full size1 :i* is a #cf in* brea/-measure1 use in*es = all ! figures on ! draft4 ,! jacket itself is f9i%$ at ! neck ) a coll>1 :i* is put on to ! cape4 ,! front1 at ! neck1 is held toge!r by an agraffe ornam5t4 ,?is g>m5t1 z x %\ld appe>1 may be se5 by ! illu/ration4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,,lady',s ,,jacket4 ,^! drafts illu/rate a new /yle ( lady's jacket1 :i* w be acceptable to _m = /reet we>4 ,! /yle & g5]al effect at once d5ote ! "* ( ! g>m5t4 ,! jacket is well adapt$ = outdoor we>4 ,x is made ) a mod]ate addition = d\ble-brea/$ add$ on to ! =e-"p1 & ! button holes are work$ 9 close toge!r1 z ! buttons n[ us$ are s v small2 !re=e1 on ?is jacket1 !y are plac$ only "o in* ap>t4 ,! wai/ is m$ium l5g?1 & ! skirt c be made to suit ! height ( ! lady4 ,a lap-ov] is made at ! c5tre ( ! back skirt1 f9i%$ (f ) small buttons put close toge!r4 ,! pockets may be put 9 at ! side l a coat pocket1 or only a flap put on1 leav+ ! top edge unfa/5$1 :i* =ms ! op5+4 ,9 ! latt] case x c be ornam5t$ ) buttons4 ,pockets1 h[ev]1 are only put 9 :5 x is cut long] ?an ,figure4 ,! sleeves are n>r[1 f9i%$ by a r[ ( buttons1 & c be regulat$ 9 wid? by ! measure ( ! arm4 ,?is is v ess5tial1 z ladies n[-a-days l ! sleeve z close z possible4 ,! d>ts are cut d[n to ! bottom1 :i* is m pref]able to runn+ !m to a po9t1 z a seam looks bett] :i* runs cont9u\sly to ! bottom4 ,cutt+ ! d>t s t x rea*es only to ! hip1 w1 unless c>efully made1 rise up 9 a puff at its l[] end4 ,x mu/ always be borne 9 m9d t ! spr+ mu/ be all[$ to rise at ! side-seam4 ,! sudd5 rise ( a lady's hip1 & ! m>k$ diff]5ce betwe5 ! size ( ! wai/ & ( ! body b a few in*es bel[1 make x extremely difficult to obta9 ! necess>y am\nt ( fre$om = ! prom95ce ( ! figure at ?is "p ( ! body4 ,! bottom edge ( ?is jacket %\ld be edg$ on ! inside by a fac+ ( silk1 :i* is held on tight s t ! edge may cl+ close to ! dress-skirt4 ,! coll> is cut l a coat-coll> & ! lapel rolls %ort4 ,a n>r[ b9d+ "o-half in* wide is put on ! edge on all goods ) a close & firm texture1 :ile on heavy1 loose mat]ial1 ! /it*+ looks m appropriate4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,! button-holes run d[n to ! bottom ( ! skirt4 ,?is =m ( jacket makes up well 9 f9e diagonal or brocad$ velvet4 ,= heavy w9t] we>1 r\gh suit+ w make v /yli% g>m5ts4 ,! l[] edge ( ?is jacket may be drawn /raight across in/ead ( curv+ up ov] ! hips z on ! ,figure1 & !n x is equally z well adapt$ to be worn ) any dress1 z 9 ! %ape we illu/rate4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,,s+le-,,brea/$ ,,long ,,sack4 ,figure #bc repres5ts a long1 close-fitt+1 s+le-brea/$ sack1 consi/+ ( back1 side-body1 front & sleeve4 ,!y are all drawn by measur+ ! l9es1 & plac+ ! numb] ( in*es on ea* l9e z designat$ by ! numb]s %[n on ! ,figure4 ,?us1 = ! back draw a /raight l9e f ,o1 !n apply ea* measure z %[n1 & draw ! l9es across at "r angles ) ! l9e ,o4 ,:5 ^! figures are all locat$1 f9i% by draw+ ! outl9es4 ,draw ! /raight l9e ,o d[n to ! desir$ l5g? = ! side-body2 at #bh apply ! figures on ! l9es--:5 ^! are all fix$ curve ! outl9es4 ,= ! front1 draw ! /raight l9e d[n f ,o1 & m>k ! numb] ( in*es = bo? l5g? & wid?2 :5 ^! are all fix$ f9i% ! outl9es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,! sleeve is drawn f ,o d[n to ! requir$ l5g?1 apply+ ! numb] ( in*es = l5g? z well z wid?1 z %[n2 aft] ^! h all be5 f\nd1 & ! l9e drawn at "r angles ) ! l9e ,o1 draw ! outl9es4 ,aft] ! upp] "p ( ! sleeve has be5 drawn cut x out2 !n locate ! po9ts = ! "u-sleeve1 & lay ! back ( upp]-sleeve aga9/ ! po9ts ( ! back "p ( ! "u-sleeve1 & draw x l ! back ( upp]-sleeve2 fix ! po9ts 9 front1 & lay ! upp]-sleeve on & draw = ! front ( sleeve1 !n f9i% = top1 z %[n4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,,jacket ,,or ,,cloak--,,f ,a ,,wai/ ,,patt]n4 ,! me?od :i* is expla9$ bel[ is "o ( ! mo/ h&y1 z well z ! easie/1 t c be us$1 & w inv>iably produce good results4 ,x is evid5t1 9 ! fir/ place1 t ! orig9al patt]n mu/ h ! ess5tial qualities ( fit & good l9es1 o!rwise x w\ld be ( little value z a base or guide to produce ano!r g>m5t4 ,9 ord] to get su* a wai/ patt]n "o mu/ be able to design x1 or h x on h&2 9 ! latt] case we are prep>$ to furni% ^! patt]ns :5 ord]$4 ,,! ,,back3 ,9 draft+ a jacket patt]n1 fir/ draw a l9e 7l ,o-,g7 on ! edge ( y\r pap]4 ,lay ! back aga9/ ! l9e at ,o & )9 #a in* ( ! l9e at ! wai/1 !n trace along ! c5tre seam f ,o to #e4 ,n[ move x "o-f\r? in* away1 ?is is = seam2 !n ! same quantity is all[$ above at neck f #a to #b & f #b to #c4 ,along ! arm-hole1 f #c to #d1 trace close to ! patt]n4 ,measure next ! l5g? want$ f ,o to #e & #i & draw a l9e ov] to #aj4 ,f #e to #i draw a /raight l9e1 & !n curve outside ( ?is1 at po9t #h1 ab\t "o-half in*1 z %[n on ,figure4 ,make ! wid? ( wai/ any size desir$1 say #c in*es1 :i* e/abli%es po9t #g1 & f ?is po9t draw a l9e d[n to #aj4 ,?is l9e %\ld be no fur!r away f ! fir/ l9e at #aj ?an at #g1 or ! di/ance f ! l9e #i to #aj %\ld be ! same z at wai/1 f #a to #g4 ,n[1 />t+ at #d1 slightly curve to #g & g "o-half in* outside ( /raight l9e to #aj4 ,,! ,,side-,,body4 ,9 ?is case1 z on ! back1 ! fir/ ?+ we d is to draw a /raight l9e f ,o to #aj4 ,n[ lay ! side-body aga9/ x1 at ,o1 & sw+ x away f ! l9e at ! wai/ #a in*4 ,trace along ! patt]n f ,o to #a4 ,!n move ! patt]n "o-f\r? in* away f ! la/ l9e1 :i* w\ld leave f #a to #c j "o-f\r? in* = ! seam4 ,f #e to #f g 9 "o-half ! di/ance all[$ ov] & above ! all[ance on ! back1 z f #f to #g4 ,n[ curve ! side-body f #b to #e1 keep+ z ne>ly z possible ! same %ape z ! orig9al4 ,!n f #e draw a l9e d[n p>allel ) ! fir/ l9e :i* runs f ,o to #aj4 ,n[ apply ! back f #b to #i & regulate ! l5g?1 :i* is po9t #i2 !n f #e curve "o-half in* outside ( /raight l9e at #h to #i4 ,at #i1 squ>e across to #aj1 & also draw a /raight l9e f #a to #aj1 & beg9 to curve f #c1 pa/ #g1 to #aj4 ,?is curve %\ld be m r\nd ne> hip1 or beg9 to curve clos] to ! wai/4 ,! curves on ! back & on ! side seam1 f #e to #h1 may be gradual1 z x ?us has ! appe>ance ( be+ long] wai/$ ?an x actually is4 ,,! ,,front4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,fir/ draw ! /raight l9e l ,o-,b4 ,lay ! =e-"p ( ! patt]n aga9/ ?is l9e1 t\*+ at ! c5tre ( ! brea/1 ,b1 & trace along x at ! front f #a to ! bottom at #c4 ,next move ! patt]n back "o-half in* to ,b4 ,trace along ! arm-hole )\t any all[ances1 b on ! top ( %\ld] add "o-f\r? in*1 also a trifle at neck4 ,on ! side-seam1 f #ae to #bj1 add "o-f\r? in*2 !n lay ! f9i%$ side-body on top ( ! front1 t\*+ po9t #ae1 & at ! wai/ at #bj1 & f9i% ! balance f #bj to #bb by ! side-body4 ,n[ f ! top ( ! %\ld]-po9t1 by ! bottom1 po9t #bb1 sweep ! bottom to ! front at ,b4 ,f #c to ,b draw a /raight l9e1 & = a d\ble-brea/$ jacket1 z ! ,figure giv51 add on to ! front1 at ,b1 #c in*es1 at wai/ #b in*es1 at ! bottom #c in*es1 & %ape x z %[n4 ,at ! bottom1 aft] x has be5 curv$ by a sweep1 /raight5 x "o-half in* above ! sweep 9 ! c5tre4 ,in/ead ( two d>ts at ! back only "o is us$1 z %[n1 & ?is "o c be increas$ "o-half in*1 & a cut is also tak5 out "u ! arm f #af to #ag4 ,x is evid5t t two d>ts c be put 9 z well z "o1 or :5 ! same is int5d$ = plu% goods ! d>ts c be left out altoge!r )\t alt]+ ! balance 9 any mann]4 ,to produce a coll> = ?is jacket draw a l9e f ,c1 :]e x is int5d$ to roll1 to ,e1 :i* is "o-half in* f curv$ l9e ( neck2 !n drop d[n f ?is l9e at #ac to #aa "o in* & curve ! break1 z %[n f #aa to ,e4 ,f #aa to #ab is in*2 curve ?is also to neckl9e at ,f1 & !nce along ! neck to ! front4 ,f #aa to #ac make ! "p ( coll> :i* is to turn ov] #a to #b in*es wide1 & %ape to ! front at ,g4 ,sleeves = ?is jacket are cut simil> to ^? already expla9$4 ,,figs4 #be ,,& #bf4 ,,walk+ ,,coat4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,by us+ a sack patt]n1 cut to ! measure1 a walk+-coat c be cut 9 ! mo/ ready mann]4 ,! back is ! same z a sack-jacket4 ,we only measure f ! top d[n to ! l5g? ( op5 skirt ,a4 ,f "h add ! lap = pleats2 s+le pleats require only #a in*2 box pleats1 accord+ to size1 #b to #d in*es4 ,! side-body is cut (f at a l5g? to correspond to #b on back1 plus "o-half in*1 & curv$ up "s t[>ds side seam4 ,! front is made z long z ! side-body1 & ! bottom swept f ! %\ld]-po9t4 ,:5 cut x w leave ! skirt 9 pieces z #a1 #b1 #c & #d4 ,n[ take ^! pieces & lay !m d[n1 clos+ at hip1 s t ! op5+ w be no m at bottom ?an at top2 !y lay close toge!r at #ab1 #ac & #ad4 ,n[ draw along ! skirt at back f #d to #ae4 ,f #d draw t[>ds #e1 raise "o-half in* above ! patt]n to #aj1 curv+ patt]n at front4 ,put 9 a d>t at #g4 ,f #aa to #af trace along ! front1 & also along ! bottom4 ,add ! pleat beh9d4 ,! side-body 9 ?is ,figure is laid 9 a clos+ position at side1 po9t #b1 to %[ t ! seam mu/ h a cont9u\s curve f #a & #b to ! front4 ,! di/ance f #a & #b to #c1 & f !re to ! front1 is not$1 & ! skirt f #d to #e-g & #aa %\ld be j ! same ) #a in* m add$1 :i* is press$ 9 be=e ! skirt is seam$ on to ! =e-"p4 ,x w be notic$ t 9 lay+ ! pieces ( ! ( ! skirt toge!r !y close at #ad1 #ab & #ac1 b at ! top & bottom !y are sep>at$1 equal di/ances1 ! cut at #g r$uces "o op5+1 & #a in* fullness equalizes ! am\nt ! fullness is great] at #i & =w>d4 ,! addition = s+le & d\ble-brea/$ is made by add+ on 9 front ( ! =e-"p & also on to ! skirt3 = a s+le-brea/$ #a in* is en\gh1 b = a d\ble-brea/$ f #b to #c in*es is requir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,,d\ble-,,brea/$ ,,newm>ket ,,jacket4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,comm5ce ?is by draft+ on ! same pr9ciple z all drafts--by ! ,proportionate ,sy/em--by draw+ l9e f ,o to ,f4 ,f ,o g d[n to #aa ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*1 & to #aj #b in*es2 f #aa to #aj curve ! top ( ! back1 & measure f ! top ( ! back1 at #aa1 to ,c1 ! l5g? ( wai/ #ae in*es1 to ,d #ah in*es & to ,f ! full l5g?1 #cb in*es2 at ,c1 ,o & ,f draw "r angle l9es across4 ,f ,c to ! back is #a in*2 ,draw a l9e f #aa to #a1 & "o f #a to ,f2 make ! wid? ( back f #a to #b in*es wide4 ,f ,o to ,b is "o-f\r? ( ! brea/-measure1 #i in*es 9 a #cf in* brea/1 & ,a is midway betwe5 ^! two po9ts2 draw l9es ov] f ,a & ,b4 ,f ,b to ,g is "o-?ird ( brea/ & #a in*1 equal to #g in*es2 f ,g to ,h is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 or #d in*es4 ,f ,y to ,j is "o-half ( brea/1 #ah in*es2 draw l9es up f ,g1 ,h & ,j1 also d[n f ,j to ,n4 ,:]e l9e ,a crosses l9e ,g1 at ,m1 draw ano!r l9e f ,m to #aj2 raise "o-half in* above ,m to ,v1 & draw a curv$ l9e f #aj to ,v4 ,comm5ce to curve ! arm-hole f ,v to ,m & ,h1 dropp+ "o-f\r? in* bel[ brea/-l9e at #ae4 ,9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,m & ,g1 beg9 to draw ! back to #b at wai/1 & f !re1 ) a slight curve1 to ,z at ! bottom1 s t ! di/ance f ,f to ,z w be ab\t equal to t f ,c to #b4 ,g 9 f #b to #c "o in* & %ape ! side-body f l9e "u ! arm to #c & ,s1 :]e x t\*es ! back2 make ! side-body any wid? desir$1 say #b in*es to #ad1 ! same f #c to #d1 curve ! seam "u ! arm & spr+ x out bel[ #d to #ba1 to give x ease ov] ! hips2 also draw ! curve = ! piece "u ! arm f #ad to #d & #bj4 ,f ,s curve up to #ba1 :i* latt] po9t is #a in* above ! l9e ,s-#ah4 ,po9t #bj is on ! same level z #ba1 ! l9e runs /raight across to ! front seam :i* runs d[n f #e4 ,! piece "u ! arm is #a in* wide at top1 f #ad to #ae1 & #b in*es f #d to #e2 ?is %\ld be %ap$ some:at l draft4 ,f ,l to ,i is "o-six? ( ! brea/1 #c in*es1 & ! same d[n f ,l to ,t4 ,curve ! neck2 f ,i to ,a draw a /raight l9e1 & place ! l5g? ( %\ld] f #aj to ,v on ! front f ,i to ,u2 %ape ! front ( %\ld] by dropp+ bel[ l9e at ,u "o-half in*1 & raise slightly above x at #ab4 ,f9i% draw+ ! arm-hole f ,u to ,h1 go+ out beyond ! l9e ,h at #ac ab\t "o half in*4 ,draw f ,t1 at ! front1 outside ( ,j "o-half in*1 !nce to ,k at wai/1 go+ inside ( front l9e "o-f\r? in* at ,k & ,n to po9t ,p at bottom4 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,j & ,h1 locate a po9t = ! d>t1 & 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ?is & ,h1 fix ano!r po9t = ! back d>t4 ,f ,k to #a1 across ! wai/1 measure ! di/ance1 tak+ out #a in* betwe5 #b & #c1 :i* w be #af in*es2 d$uct ! size ( wai/1 #ab in*es1 f #af in*es & ! rema9d]1 #d in*es1 is to be tak5 out 9 d>ts2 !re=e1 put 9 two d>ts ( #b in*es ea*4 ,f ,k to #i is #b in*es2 f #i to #h is "o d>t2 f #h to #g1 betwe5 ! d>ts1 is ?ree-f\r?s in*2 f #g to #f is ano!r d>t ( #b in*es4 ,ab\t #b in*es bel[ ! wai/-l9e beg9 to draw ! d>ts pa/ #i1 #h1 #g & #f1 ne>ly /raight d[n f wai/-l9e4 ,f #ba curve l[] seam to #ai1 #ah & ,n2 at ,n x is "o-half in* bel[ /raight l9e4 ,make ! lapel /raight on its inside edge1 & #b in*es at wai/1 & #c in*es at c5tre ( brea/1 9 wid?1 & %ape l ,figure4 ,to draw ! skirt lay a /raight-edge f #c to ,s aga9/ ! side-body1 & draw a l9e to ,r1 !n curve x ab\t "o-half in* m ov] ! hips4 ,regulate ! l5g? by ! back4 ,f ,s draw ! upp] edge ( ! skirt to )9 "o-half in* ( side-body at #ba1 !nce to ,n2 f ,n =w>d add ! wid? ( lapel & draw /raight d[n2 also put 9 two cuts on ! hip1 ( "o-half in* ea*1 & ! skirt w be "r to fit ! body4 ,%\ld x1 on measur+1 be a little too wide1 take ! extra wid? (f 9 front2 :atev] ov]laps on ! side-body w equalize ! loss ( ! d>ts4 ,a flap c be put on ov] ! hips4 ,an ord9>y coat-coll> w suit ?is jacket4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,,travel+ ,,ul/]4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,a ,spr+ & ,fall g>m5t = travel+ or outdoor we> is repres5t$ by ?is ,figure & is a r$uc$ copy ( ! patt]n ( a #ch size brea/1 & c be readily enl>g$ by simply us+ in*es = ! numb]s m>k$ ^u x4 ,! draft is a close-fitt+ travel+ paletot1 d\ble-brea/$1 & buttons d[n to ! bottom1 & has a coll> :i* turns ov]1 z repres5t$ by ,fig4 #e4 ,?is coll> %\ld be well /ret*$ ) ! hot iron1 at ! l[] edge1 be=e x is sew$ on1 9 ord] t x may cl+ ar\nd ! neck nicely4 ,?is way ( mak+ & sew+ on a coll> is f> sup]ior to ! usual cu/om ( dressmak]s1 & is always adopt$ by tailors 9 mak+ jackets or o!r ladies' g>m5ts4 ,! back has at its c5tre1 bel[ ! wai/1 a lap1 :i* c be put 9 a box-pleat or lapp$ ov] l a coat1 & at ! side x has a simple pleat4 ,! front has a l>ge d>t cut 9 "o piece--t is1 l a sack coat1 hav+ ! skirt atta*$ to ! body--b ! side-body is sew$ 9 z cut1 9 a sep>ate piece4 ,ov] ! hips pockets are put 9 cov]$ ) lib]al flaps4 ,= use z a travel+ g>m5t x w be well to make x out ( wat]pro( clo?1 b x makes a h&some /reet paletot :5 made out ( diagonal clo? or melton4 ,,figs4 #bi ,,& #cj4 ,,newm>ket4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,?is /yle ( ,newm>ket has only "o d>t4 ,proce$ to make a full size draft 9 accordance ) ! directions4 ,fir/ draw a /raight l9e ,o1 & m>k (f ! numb] ( in*es d[n f ,o1 z giv5 on ! ,figure2 at ^! po9ts draw l9es across1 & on ^! l9es m>k ! numb] ( in*es z giv51 9 l mann] proce$ to draw ea* "p ( ! g>m5t4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,,rid+-,,habit4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,! dem& & ord]s = ^! g>m5ts h1 s f>1 be5 consid]able 9 ! lead+ h\ses1 & a few h9ts are always seasonable1 n only to ^? :o make !m = ! highe/ fa%ionables1 b especially to ^? :o are locat$ 9 small] t[ns & :o are n (t5 call$ ^u to make ?is /yle ( g>m5t4 ,!re are n[ _m ladies :o h a horse at _! disposal1 & ^: *ief enjoym5t is 9 eque/rian ex]cise1 & x is q necess>y1 n only = ! tailor b ! dressmak]1 to "k h[ a rid+-habit %\ld be cut & made4 ,at "o "t x 0 ?\ght impossible = anyone b a tailor to make a /yli% rid+-habit1 b n[ _m ladies h !m made by _! dressmak]s4 ,illu/ration ,! fir/ ?+ necess>y is a good measure ( ! =m1 by :i* a correct patt]n mu/ be cut1 z a well-sett+1 com=table rid+-habit _c be made )\t x4 ,! jacket has a few peculi>ities3 ,!re %\ld be no seam d[n ! middle ( ! back2 ! front1 side-body & back are cut "o in* bel[ ! natural wai/4 ,! skirt & back =m a pleat l ! skirt-pleat ( a coat4 ,! buttons %\ld be small & r\nd4 ,! sleeves are tightly button$ up at wri/4 ,! inside ( jacket %\ld be l9$ ) silk1 c>efully wadd$ & /it*$ 9 close r[s4 ,x %\ld h a belt inside1 /it*$ to ea* seam at wai/1 :i* is to close x tight to ! =m4 ,! ,figures we give %[ to advantage "s ( ^! peculi>ities4 ,! draft is a good model ( su* a habit1 & is univ]sally adopt$1 be+ bo? suitable & elegant4 ,x 8looks q ,engli%0 & v pretty4 ,a pla9 /&+ coll> ( :ite l95 %\ld be worn ) x & a g5tleman's cravat ( black silk1 or if ! jacket is made ) ! lapels turn+ d[n a flat sc>f is m appropriate4 ,illu/ration ,we add to ?is an article publi%$ 9 8,mun/]'s ,gazette ( ,fa%ion0 on rid+-habits4 ,?is w enable our read]s to be m fully po/$1 n only on :at is worn "h b :at is 9 keep+ ) ,london /yles3 8,we h devot$ "o ( ! plates issu$ ) ! curr5t numb] ( our publication to ! repres5tation ( ! newe/ & mo/ fa%ionable /yle ( a lady's rid+-habit 9 we>4 ,! l5g!n+ ( ! wai/1 :i* we report$ la/ ye>1 has be5 ma9ta9$1 al?\gh x has n be5 increas$2 & ! jacket-skirt is ab\t ! same 9 l5g?4 ,x is fa/5$ up to ! ?roat by buttons & holes1 & ) a small /&-coll> r\nd$ (f at ! front4 ,! jacket-skirt is cut 9 "o piece in/ead ( two1 z h]et(ore1 & at front runs (f at an angle f ! bottom ( ! front edge ( ! =e-"p1 & is l9$ ) clo?1 or int]l9$ ) "s article ( sub/ance1 to give x a firmness4 ,! edges ( ! back skirts t]m9ate 9 a po9t at ! bottom4 ,a small squ>e tab1 ) two holes 9 x1 is sewn across "u ! bottom ( ! back1 & is fa/5$ on to two buttons sewn on ! top ( ! back "p ( tra94 ,! edges are usually trimm$ ) a n>r[ silk braid1 sewn on flat1 & ! body & ! sleeves l9$ ) light color$ silk4 ,ball buttons & fancy silk buttons are g5]ally us$4 ,five or six buttons are sewn on at ! h9d-arm2 ! two l[] holes only are work$ op54 ,"s ladies affect a c]ta9 tone ( sev]ity 9 _! rid+-habits1 & es*ew+ all fictiti\s aids by way ( adornm5t to ! bodies h made !m p]fectly pla91 ) ! edges turn$ 9 & /it*$1 & smok$ pe>l or vegetable ivory %ank buttons4 ,veils are no long] consid]$ correct1 no d\bt because !y may be consid]$ too effem9ate 9 "* & out ( place ) ! 8billy-cock0 hat4 ,! tra91 z n[ worn1 is only cut a few in*es long] ?an ! walk+ l5g?4 ,x is turn$ up at ! bottom1 ) a n>r[ hem only1 & ! ,v's tak5 out at ! seams are cov]$ ) ribbon4 ,color$ habits are be+ worn 9 ri* %ades ( br[n1 olive & gre5--n too light4 ,blue & black are also worn4 ,! small diagonal ela/ic coat+ & ,v5etian clo? are pref]r$ on acc\nt ( _! mak+ up s satisfactorily4 ,dress meltons & twe$s are also worn1 b ! makes are n s appropriate4 ,"o inevitable consequ5ce ( %ort & scanty tra9s is ! necessity = e lady1 tak+ eque/rian ex]cise1 to we> rid+ tr\s]s4 ,!y are usually made ( ! same clo? z ! habit1 ) a fly-front op5 to leg-seam1 or ) a long op5+ at ea* side-seam & a button & button-hole 9 ! c5tre1 & a n>r[ /rap at bottom40 ,9 ord] to produce ,figure #ca use in*es = all numb]s on ! draft4 ,b 9 draft+ x to measure use ! same pr9ciple z laid d[n = wai/s1 & l5g!n ! skirt z on ,figure #g & draw ! skirt l t on la/ ,figure4 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,,circul>4 ,draw l9es ,o-#e & ,o-,j4 ,f ,o to ,j is "o-f\r? ( brea/4 ,f ,o to ,h is "o-?ird ( brea/4 ,lay ! patt]n ( ! back aga9/ ,h & #a in* inside ( l9e at ! wai/4 ,lay also ! patt]n ( ! front aga9/ ! %\ld] ( ! back ne> ,f & t\*+ front-l9e at ,j4 ,draw along ! top ( ! back f ,h to #a1 & add to ! patt]n at #a1 = seams1 "o-half in*4 ,draw f #a to ,f & f #b1 on ! front %\ld]1 to ,f4 ,f ,j1 along ! front ( ! body-patt]n1 draw a /raight l9e to #d4 ,n[ f #a & #b draw a l9e & make a po9t 9 ! c5tre at #c4 ,apply ! l5g? f ,h to #e = full l5g? ( :at ! g>m5t %\ld be1 & us+ po9t #c z a pivot sweep f #e to ! front = ! l[] or bottom edge2 !n squ>e ! bottom at #e1 & 9 front at #d1 z %[n 9 ! ,figure4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,if a seam is want$ draw a l9e ?r\gh ! c5tre f ,f & take out ab\t #c in*es at bottom1 />t+ f #f to #g & #f to #h4 ,= a close back1 curve f ,h along ! back to #a & !nce to #e at bottom4 ,,figs4 #cc ,,& #cd4 ,,russian ,,circul>4 ,9 mak+ a patt]n ( ?is g>m5t we fir/ draw a l9e on ! edge ( pap] & make a po9t on ! "r end1 z ,o4 ,f ,o d[n place ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*4 ,f ,o to ,i is "o-half ( brea/ measure1 or #i in*es1 = a #cf size4 ,betwe5 ,o & ,i is ,j4 ,h & ,i are at "r angles ) fir/ back-l9e4 ,f ,i ov] on ! l9e place "o-?ird ( brea/1 equal to #f in*es1 & add #a in*1 mak+ 9 all #g in*es1 & draw a l9e up to #e4 ,next1 f ,o on top l9e place #b or #b in*es & curve f to #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,measure d[n f to ,d1 ! l5g? ( wai/1 say #ae in*es1 & ! :ole l5g? to ,r4 ,g 9 f /raight l9e at ,d #a in* & curve ! "r back-seam f to #a & ,r4 ,make ! back1 at wai/1 #d in*es wide & curve f #e ?r\gh wai/ at #aa to #ab at bottom4 ,! run ( ?is l9e %\ld be ne>ly /raight pa/ ,v & curv+ at #aa1 & %\ld also be wid] at bottom1 ab\t #a in* m ?an f ,d to #aa4 ,f #b draw a l9e rais+ x "o-half in* at #e4 ,= ! front 7,figure #cd7 draw a /raight l9e f ,o to ,j4 ,f ,o d[n to a is "o-eigh? ( brea/1 equal to #b in*es4 ,f ,o to ,b is "o-six? ( brea/1 or #c in*es4 ,f ,o to ,k is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 or #i in*es4 ,squ>e l9es across at all ^! po9ts4 ,f ,o to ,a1 ! neck1 is "o-six? ( brea/4 ,lay ! back on to ! po9t ,a & extreme %\ld] re/+ on ! l9e at ,c4 ,n[ draw along ! back %\ld] :ile x is 9 ?is position1 & also curve f ,c to #ab1 :i* %\ld only be #d in*es bel[ ,c4 ,f ,k g out to ,h "o-qu>t] ( ! brea/1 less #a in*1 equal to #h in*es4 ,hav+ e/abli%$ ?is we c curve ! %\ld] easi]1 z se5 by dott$ l9es4 ,measure f ,k ov] on ! l9e "o-half ( brea/1 equal to #ah in*es1 & "o-?ird ( brea/1 or #f in*es1 add$4 ,n[ lay ! back-l9e aga9/ ?is la/ po9t 9 su* a way t po9t #e ( ! back w re/ on l9e ,a-#ac1 & s t x w be plac$ z se5 9 ,figure #ce4 ,!n c>efully measure to see if ! di/ance f ,k-,h & to ! back-l9e w be exactly "o-halt & "o-?ird ( brea/1 or #bg in*es4 ,!n curve f #ab to #ac to #ad d[n ! back & r$uc+ x at ! bottom ab\t #d in*es f ! position z x w\ld be :5 ! back is laid z /at$4 ,n[ by ! l5g? ( ! back regulate t ( ! front1 & !n sweep by ! po9t ( %\ld] ,a f #aj to ,j4 ,?is latt] po9t1 & "p ( ?is r\nd1 z produc$ by ! sweep1 %\ld be %ort5$ ab\t #a in*4 ,curve ! neck f ,a to ,b1 & add #a in* all along ! front = a turn-9 hem4 ,f :]e ! back lies aga9/ ! w+1 at ,o1 draw ! curve to #ac on ! top ( sleeve head4 ,! upp] "p ( ! sleeve-head %\ld be ga!r$-9 consid]able1 & at ,o a not* %\ld be plac$ to facilitate ! sew+ 91 = not* %\ld be sewn on not*4 7,see ,figure #ce47 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,,clos$ ,,circul>4 ,aft] ?is has be5 drawn ! same z ! ,russian circul>1 lay x aga9/ ! front & cut )\t a seam f ,o d[n to ! bottom4 ,= ?is %ape1 aft] ! %\ld]s are seam$ up1 ga!r 9 ! r\nd ( sleeve f ,o =w>d4 ,! same c be cut l ! circul>2 also cut (f 9 front f top1 pa/ ,v1 to ! bottom1 9 a /raight l9e d[n f ,b4 ,?is makes a wrap ) a back w+ & a front4 ,:5 cut 9 ?is mann] an op5+ c be left = ! h&s to g ?r\gh1 z %[n on ! ,figure1 bel[ ,e4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,a %ort cape1 su* z h be5 worn = "s "t 9 ,europe1 & are j mak+ _! appe>ance "h1 is cut l ?is1 rea*+1 h[ev]1 only to ! wai/4 ,?is same wrap c be cut f a dolman patt]n by lay+ ! sleeve ( a dolman on to front s t ! front not*es come toge!r & ! two patt]ns close toge!r "s di/ance above1 or till )9 #d or #e in*es ( ! top ( ! %\ld]1 !n draw along sleeve-top pa/ ! back ( ! sleeve4 ,if a l9e is drawn ?r\gh ! %\ld]-po9t1 next to ! sleeve1 at "r angles ) ! front1 & ! back %\ld]-po9t laid on ?is l9e & clos+ aga9/ ! sleeve at blade1 x w repres5t exactly ?is circul> cape1 & w be "o ( ! easie/ ways to make x4 ,! ,figure %[s ! outl9e ( ! dolman sleeve by ! dott$ l9e f ,e =w>d1 z x appe>s :5 ly+ 9 position4 ,^! sev]al wraps c be made ( silk1 & fur-l9$1 or !y may be ( brocade1 velvet1 or seal1 & are h&some 9 %ape & outl9e :5 correctly cut4 ,z !y are s diff]5t f ! old circul> !y w be mu* s\ght aft]1 because ( ! newness ( design & t ! sleeve c be rais$ on ! %\ld] to h>monize ) ! increas$ preval5ce ( ga!r$ & high /yle ( sleeve-heads4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,figs4 #cf1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj4 ,,dolman4 ,draw a l9e ,o-,h2 f ,o1 d[n1 m>k ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*4 ,f ,o draw a %ort l9e ov] to #c1 & make x #b in*es4 ,f ,o d[n to ,b is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 equal to #i in*es on a #cf brea/4 ,po9t ,f is 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,o & ,b2 f to ,d is ! l5g? ( ! wai/1 & to ,h ! full l5g? ( g>m5t4 ,draw l9es across at ,f1 ,b & ,d4 ,betwe5 ,f & ,b1 directly 9 ! c5tre1 make a m>k ,c1 & draw a l9e across4 ,g 9 at ! wai/ #a in* f l9e at ,d2 draw l9e f to #a = ! c5tre ( back1 & curve bel[ ,d to ,h4 ,f #a1 at wai/1 measure 9 to #d #c in*es to #d in*es4 ,on l9e ,c make ! wid? ( back "o-?ird ( brea/ & "o in* & draw a l9e up4 ,on ! top ( %\ld] draw a l9e f #c to #ad1 & raise x "o-half in* above #ad2 comm5c+ !re1 exactly at ! cross+ ( ! l9es1 beg9 to curve pa/ #af & #d to #a at bottom4 ,hav+ f9i%$ ! back1 fir/ make a l9e across 9 ! middle1 betwe5 & ,f1 f ,e ov]2 next lay a sleeve patt]n1 ( regul> size1 on #ae z :5 sewn 9 ! arm-hole2 hold+ x at #ae1 sw+ x d[n till ! upp] "p ( ! sleeve-head re/s ab\t "o-half in* bel[ l9e ,e1 at #ac1 & :5 9 ?is position draw along ! r\nd ( ! sleeve1 :i* w give exactly ! r\nd z %[n on ! ,figure f #ae1 pa/ #ac1 to #b4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,next1 plac+ ! wid? ov] f ,b on ! back l9e1 measure to #aj1 #bd in*es1 & curve ! sleeve f #b to #aj1 runn+ bel[ ! l9e #b in*es4 ,po9t ,g is ab\t #ab in*es bel[ ! wai/1 & f ?is place #a in* m ?an "o-qu>t] ( ! hips to #h1 & draw f #f1 :i* is "o-qu>t] ( hip f ,d1 a l9e ?r\gh #h to #i2 !n f9i% ! curve at bottom1 & %ape ! r\nd ( front ( sleeve to any desir$ %ape4 ,! front is con/ruct$ by draw+ a l9e f ,o d[n ! front edge or c5tre ( front4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,f ,o ov] to %\ld] po9t is "o-six? brea/1 ! same d[n to #c2 also g d[n "o-eigh? brea/ & draw a l9e across2 curve ! neck f to #c1 & apply ! same wid? ( %\ld] z ! back on ! front1 to #aj4 ,f ,o d[n is "o-half brea/ to ,e1 !re draw a l9e ov] to #h & make la/ po9t1 f ,e1 "o-f\r? brea/ less #a in*4 ,measure ! di/ance on ! back1 f ,b to ,h1 & place x f ,e to ,p1 !n sweep ! bottom ( ! front by ! %\ld]-po9t1 :i* gives l9e ,p to ,k4 ,make ! di/ance ov] f ,h to ,j "o-qu>t] ( ! hips1 & #a to #a1 in* m2 draw a l9e f ,k ?r\gh ,j to ,l4 ,next measure ! back f #f to #i & place ! same f ,k up to ,l2 curve arm-hole f #aj ?r\gh #h to ,l4 ,add #c in*es = a lap ( d\ble-brea/$ /yle2 m>k & space ! buttons4 ,illu/ration ,! "u-sleeve is cut l ! upp] "p f #b to #aj & #aa1 l ! outside curve4 ,! inside curve f #b to #g is %ort1 j z mu* z is ne$$ to sew 9 ! front--to f9d h[ mu* ?is %\ld be we make a not* opposite #ad & "o at #b1 :i* is ab\t #aj in*es f #ad4 ,?is measure1 less #a in*1 is m>k$ f #aj to #af1 & at t po9t make ano!r not*4 ,:at is left f #af to ,l mu/ be plac$ f #b to #g1 & ?is curve %\ld be l curve on front4 ,la/ly1 draw a l9e f #g to ! />1 :i* f9i%es ! :ole g>m5t4 ,9 ord] to draft a dolman patt]n :i* w fit well & hang ) a good balance ! same mann] ( draft+ z t :i* produces a good %ap$ sack %\ld be us$1 !n ! balance & hang ( ! g>m5t w be equally z good z 9 a tight-fitt+ sack1 & a dolman c !n be cut z close z a sack1 if s desir$4 ,! mann] ( draft+ ! back1 side-body & front1 are1 9 fact1 j l a sack1 ! ma9 diff]5ce be+ 9 ! %ape ( ! sleeve4 ,! sleeve1 ev5 9 ! upp] "p1 mu/ be l an ord9>y coat-sleeve1 :ile ! l[] "p may be any ( ! v>i\s %apes 9 fa%ion4 ,9 draft+ make a l9e to />t on f ,o to ,f 7,figure #cg72 f ,o d[n is ?ree-f\r?s in*1 & f ,o ov] to top l9e is #b in*es to #a4 ,f ,o to ,b is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 #i in*es ( a #cf size4 ,po9t ,d is 9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,o & ,b1 & po9t #f is 9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,o & ,d4 ,f 1 :i* is ! top ( ! back1 measure d[n to ,c #ae in*es1 & to ,f #dj in*es1 ! full l5g?4 ,po9t ,e is #f in*es1 or "o-?ird ( brea/1 bel[ ! wai/-l9e at ,c4 ,at all ^! po9ts draw l9es across4 ,f ,b to ,h is "o-?ird & #a in*1 equal1 on #cf brea/1 to #g in*es2 draw a l9e up to ,j2 9 ! middle1 betwe5 ,i1 ! po9t :]e ! two l9es cross & ,h1 m>k po9t ,k4 ,at ! wai/-l9e g 9 f /raight l9e ,c to #c "o & "o-half in*es1 !n draw l9e d[n f to #c & f #c to ,f4 ,also draw a /raight l9e at "r angles ) wai/-l9e f #c to #f at bottom4 ,make ! wid? at wai/1 f #c to #d1 ab\t #c in*es1 & draw also a l9e d[n to #g4 ,n[ curve back-seam1 z %[n1 & :atev] am\nt !re is f #f to ,f place f #g to #h1 & curve f #d pa/ #e to #h4 ,draw a l9e f ,i to #a1 raise above ,i to ,j ?ree-f\r?s in*1 & curve ! %\ld]4 ,/>t+ f ,j up upright l9e1 curve back seam to #d & #h2 also m>k a dim l9e f ,j pa/ ,i1 ,k to ,g1 j l 9 a sack back--! dott$ l9e %[s t4 ,po9t ,g is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 or #i in*es1 f ,b4 ,notice t ! curve on ! back1 f ,c to #c1 is a trifle outside ( ! /raight l9e1 & t bel[ #c x runs a %ade inside to give an appe>ance ( a long wai/1 & bel[ ,e x curves outside aga9 to ,f4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,! inside seam f ,j pa/ brea/-l9e %\ld be v ne>ly /raight1 & beg9 to curve only ne> ! wai/1 & f #e d[n x mu/ h ! same curve z outside l9e bel[ po9t ,e to ,f4 ,n[ h a sleeve cut = a #cf size & lay ?is on to ,k1 z %[n1 s t ! sleeve-head re/s aga9/ ! l9e f ,k to ,i2 !n 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 ,i & ,k1 f9d po9t #b & /ick a p94 ,n[ turn to ,figure #ch3 ,9 ! middle1 betwe5 l9e ,a & ,d1 draw l9e ,e2 keep+ x p9n$ at #b1 move ! l[] "p ( ! sleeve t[>ds ! back till ! top ( ! sleeve-head j t\*es l9e ,e at #aj4 ,:ile x lays ?us draw along ! top f #b to #aj & #i1 also d[n f #i1 9 front ( sleeve patt]n1 to l9e ,b4 ,?is gives ! outl9e ( ! sleeve1 b we modify x by draw+ a correct$ l9e f #aj1 inside ( po9t #i ( sleeve1 d[n to #ab4 ,illu/ration ,figure #ci gives ! balance ( ! sleeve4 ,fir/ draw a l9e 9 ! c5tre1 betwe5 l9es ,b & ,c1 :i* places l9e ,d4 ,!n take out ! p9 :i* 0 plac$ 9 ! sleeve at po9t #b1 & )\t mov+ ! sleeve /ick a p9 at po9t ,u2 ?is po9t is f\nd two-?irds ( ! wid? ( ! sleeve =w>d4 ,:5 ?is is done take hold ( ! sleeve at its l[] po9t & move x upw>ds1 till po9t ,t ( sleeve re/s on l9e ,d at ,n1 & !n curve f #af to ,n4 ,to produce ?is curve j "r take ! di/ance f l9e ,b at #ah to l9e ,d at #ag1 & place ! same f #ag to #ai1 & draw a /raight l9e f #ai to #ah1 !n curve l9e f #af1 re/+ on l9e at #bj1 !nce to ,n4 ,f ,n curve =m ( sleeve to #ba & #ae1 & to #ac = "o /yle ( sleeve1 or f ,u to #ba & #ad = ano!r /yle4 ,g 9 f #d to #e ?ree-qu>t]s ( an in*2 curve f #aj1 pa/ #b1 t\*+ ! back1 & along x pa/ l9e ,b1 & !nce sep>ate f ! back to #e & #ad--?is la/ l9e mu/ t\* at po9t #ac on ! /raight l9e :i* 0 drawn d[n f po9t #d on ,fig4 #cg & is m>k$ #e on ! same4 ,,! ,,front--,,fig4 #dj4 ,lay ! back d[n on pap] & ext5d all ! l9es across1 l9e ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d & bottom l9e4 ,measure f ,z to ,a on l9e ,b1 "o-half ( brea/1 or #ah in*es2 f ,b to ,h is "o-?ird ( brea/ & #a in*2 ,h to ,p is "o-f\r? ( brea/1 equal to #d in*es4 ,draw a l9e up at ,p1 & "o up & d[n at ,a4 ,m>k l9e ,a also4 ,f ,k to ,l is "o-six? ( brea/1 equal to #c in*es1 & ,k to #g is ! same1 #c in*es2 curve neck4 ,draw a l9e f ,l to ,d & place ! wid? ( ! top ( %\ld] on ! back f ,l to #h1 & curve f #h upw>ds above ! l9e "o-f\r? in*2 draw f #h d[n 9 front ( l9e ,p to #i4 ,?is w be ?ree-f\r?s in* 9 front ( l9e ,p4 ,let ?is curve ( ! arm-hole ext5d bel[ l9e ,b1 or ne>ly d[n to midway betwe5 l9es ,b & ,c1 & curve to #f4 ,f #f draw d[n to #e1 :i* is ?ree-f\r?s in* f #d to #ae & #ag2 at ! la/ po9t x %\ld be ab\t #a in* ov] ! /raight l9e drawn d[n f #d on ! back4 ,f po9t ,g1 :i*1 z be=e /at$1 is "o-f\r? ( ! brea/-measure1 #i in*es f ,b1 draw a /raight l9e d[n4 ,curve f ,g to #ab1 #ac & #ah2 ! la/ po9t is #b in*es f ,t2 also curve f ,g to #ab1 #ad & #ai4 ,po9t #ai is ! same di/ance f ,t z #ah4 ,draw bottom l9e f #ai to #cj at front1 :]e curve ?ree-f\r?s in* bel[ ! l9e4 ,add 9 front ov] ,f l9e1 = d\ble-brea/$ #c in*es1 & = s+le-brea/$ #a in*es4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,n[ we h only to %[ h[ ! "u-sleeve is produc$4 ,?is is done by measur+ fir/ ! sleeve-head f ,o1 :]e po9t ,j ( ! back is sewn on1 to #af1 :i* po9t is 9 middle1 betwe5 #i & #ah4 ,?is w measure #aj in*es2 z we put 9 #a in* ( fullness 9 ! sleeve-head x leaves u only #i in*es1 :i* is measur$ d[n ! front f #h to #aj & not*$4 ,lay sleeve not*1 m>k$ #af1 on to not* on ! =e-"p #aj1 hold x !re ) a p91 move x till l9e on sleeve1 m>k$ ,c1 w lay p>allel ) any ( ! l9es1 z ,c or ,b on =e-"p4 ,!n m>k on ! =e-"p along ! sleeve1 f not* at #aj to ,n ( sleeve1 & f ,n to #ba2 ! sleeve w n[ be m>k$ on ! =e-"p l9e #aj to ,o1 ,p & ,a1 & w be cut ! same %ape z ! arm-hole f #aj to ,a1 & c be trac$ (f on ano!r %eet ( pap]4 ,! pr9ciple z giv5 9 ?is article is suitable1 & ! only ?+ necess>y1 to produce any /yle ( dolman4 ,! *ange necess>y = ! %ort or long po9t$ sleeve1 or = any %ape ( arm-w+1 does n alt] ! pr9ciple4 ,pleat$ backs1 or v mu* fullness 9 ! top ( ! sleeve1 mu/ be met by putt+ en\gh extra goods 9 to meet ! am\nt requir$ = pleats or fullness4 ,:5 a regul> patt]n is cut addition is made :]e pleats are want$4 ,:5 m fullness is want$ 9 ! sleeve ! easie/ & mo/ correct plan is to cut ! sleeve 9 two1 f ! highe/ "p ( ! sleeve-head1 & op5$ z f> z requir$1 ab\t #a or #b in*es1 & a little m r\nd put on ! top4 ,! pr9ciple1 z %[n 9 ?is book1 w produce = e /yle ( g>m5t a correct fit1 & yet x may be urg$ ^u all us+ x1 t 9 ord] to produce new /yles1 or g>m5ts ( su* /yles t conta9 pleats or ornam5ts laid on ! clo?1 ! read]'s own judgm5t mu/ necess>ily help to c>ry him ?r\gh4 ,9 conclusion1 let me say--t any po9t or measur+ t does n seem cle>1 by address+ me ,i w always be ready to enlight5 to ! be/ ( my ability4 ,illu/ration