,,handbook ,,on ,,dress ,,and ,,cloak ,,cutting1 ,,by ,,chas4 ,,hecklinger4 #ahhd4 ,,new ,,york3 ,,peter ,,de ,,baun1 ,,printer1 #aja ,,and #ajc ,,fulton ,,street4 ,entered according to an ,act of ,congress in the year #ahhd1 by ,,charles ,,hecklinger1 in the ,office of the ,librarian of ,congress1 at ,washington1 ,d4 ,c4 ,,preface4 ,the following pages contain the author's ,improved ,system of ,dress and ,cloak ,cutting1 fully explained1 with the intention of helping those students who1 desirous to follow this branch of industry1 are met on the very threshold by a difficulty--the choice of a suitable ,system4 ,the ,system given has been found to give the greatest security in its results1 with the least trouble1 it being easy to learn1 readily used1 and gives the greatest satisfaction to the large number of those using it4 ,everything in illustrating and explaining has been omitted which might tend to complicate or retard the student in acquiring it4 ,every point needed to make it clear has been carefully put down--in its illustrations1 in the simple description1 and in grouping the separate articles in their correct places--making it at once easy to comprehend and perfect as a whole4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,proportionate ,,system4 ,most ,systems of proportion1 thus far issued1 are projected on the breast-measure4 ,it will be evident1 on investigating the proportions of the human figure1 that a ,system based only on one size of the body1 and that its width1 can never lead to the best results4 ,illustration ,when the height and width are equal it is immaterial which we use4 ,but this is only the case on normal sizes1 from #cd to #ch breast1 as all deviations from these sizes are different in their proportions of heights to the widths4 ,the problem to be solved in using a proportionate system is to arrange the lengths so that they agree with a certain breast size and use it for the heights4 ,in practice we find that the average forms1 measuring from #cd to #ch breast1 require and can be cut by the full breast-measure1 as the lengths agree1 in the majority of cases1 with this size2 but in larger and smaller sizes this breast-measure will either be too small or too large1 therefore1 in drafting any other sizes than those indicated1 we must use the quantities as given in the following ,table1 as set opposite the full breast-measure1 in order that the pattern in its length may be of correct size1 and neither too small or too large4 ,table of ,sizes4 ,,size ,,to ,,draft ,,breast4 ,,one-,,half ,,waist4 ,,breast-,,measure4 ----------------------------- #cj #ae #bb #ca #ae #bb #cb #af #bc #cc #af #bc #cd #ag #bd #ce #ag #bd #cf #ah #be #cg #ah #be #ch #ai #bf #ci #ai #bf #dj #bj #bg #da #bj #bh #db #bj #bi #dc #ba #cj #dd #ba #ca #de #ba #cc #df #ba #cd #dg #bb #cf #dh #bb #cg #di #bc #ch #ej #bc #ci ----------------------------- ,in considering the human body it must be allowed that sufficient and marked characteristics exist between a young girl and the full-grown woman--the slender1 and the large1 fleshy form4 ,all these tend to establish that the first elements of a good ,system for constructing garments is a good proportionate standard4 ,illustration ,in strict accordance with this we have given diagrams1 illustrating the system by which the art of cutting is thoroughly attained2 we also give the system as it should be used in drafting by measure4 ,table of ,sizes for ,children4 ,,age4 ,,breast4 ,,waist4 ,,length ,,of ,,back ,,to ,,natural ,,waist4 ------------------------------- #b #bb #bb #i #c #bb #bb #i #d #bc #bb #aj #e #bd #bb #aj #f #be #bc #aa #g #be #bc #aa #h #bf #bc #ab #i #bg #bc #ab #aj #bh #bd #ac #aa #bh #bd #ac #ab #bi #bd #ad #ac #cj #bd #ad #ad #ca #be #ae #ae #cb #be #ae ------------------------------- ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,,the ,,measures4 ,the measures required are few1 and only such as give correct results 7,see ,fig4 #a74 ,have a tape which fastens around the waist in such a manner that it will be level4 ,measure from socket bone at top of back1 point ,o1 to waist ,i below the tape to ,b1 for the highest part of hip1 and to the full length of garment wanted4 ,take next the width of back from ,e to ,d1 being careful to see whether the dress worn has this width in the correct place4 ,should it be either too narrow or too wide modify your measure as seems right4 ,take the measure around the arm-hole2 then move the arm forward to allow you to put the tape directly under the arm to seam of sleeve at ,f1 and measure down to bottom of tape at ,j4 ,next1 put the tape under the arm1 close up1 and measure the length of the sleeve down to the wrist4 ,turn to ,fig4 #b1 and measure1 as shown1 from back of neck1 point ,o1 past the front of arm1 to bottom of tape at ,j4 ,this measure must be taken easy1 and should run straight down in front of arm4 ,measure next from front of arm to centre of back4 ,to take this measure1 a little square1 having a tape attached1 is very handy to use4 ,take the breast-measure over the fullest part of the bosom and shoulder blades1 then the waist-measure1 always taken close1 and the hip-measure4 ,these are all the measures required for a dress-waist1 a jacket1 or a long garment4 ,for a skirt we take the length on the side1 from the hip down to the floor4 ,for a circular take the width around the shoulders4 ,,fig4 #c ,,and #d4 ,,the ,,waist ,,pattern4 ,commence by drawing line ,o on the edge of a sheet of paper from point ,o to ,f1 and one line ,c at right angles with it from ,o to ,n4 ,from ,o go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back4 ,from ,o to ,c is one-quarter of the breast-measure1 which for a #cf bust would be #i inches1 and from ,c over to #af draw line ,d 7see ,fig4 #d7 at right angles with the back line4 ,next1 measure from 1 or the top of back down to ,f1 the length of back1 from socket bone to the natural waist and from ,f draw a line over to the front at ,t4 ,from ,f go in #a inch1 and draw a line for the centre of the back1 from at top to #a at the bottom4 ,from ,o over on the top line1 place #b inches to the point marked 4 ,this will be about right for all medium sizes4 ,for large sizes1 over #dj breast1 make it #b inches to #b inches and for sizes under #cj breast-measure let it be #a to #a inches4 ,it will make no difference in the fit what this width may be1 as it only affects the appearance of the shoulder-seam4 ,a little practice1 however1 will enable any one to apply the right width4 ,in the middle1 between ,o and ,e 7see ,fig4 #d71 fix point ,b1 and in the centre1 between ,b and ,e1 locate point ,c1 and draw lines ,b and ,g from both points4 ,starting at ,e1 measure over to ,s one-third of the breast1 which is #f inches for a #cf2 and add to it one inch1 which fixes ,s2 and from ,s to ,h place one-fourth1 or #d inches4 ,all fractions and divisions that we use in explanation are based on the breast-measure1 and are found already divided on the square4 ,at ,s and ,h draw lines up1 as shown4 ,where lines ,s-,j and ,b-,j cross1 begin by drawing another to the top1 at ,a4 ,now1 curve from to ,a1 and from ,a to ,g1 which last point is one-half inch above ,j4 ,commencing at ,g curve past ,j to ,r1 going a trifle inside of straight line1 then from ,r past ,x to ,v4 ,from ,r draw a straight line to #a1 and curve the back seam from ,r by going only a little inside of straight line at #ai1 thence to #b4 ,point #b is #a inches from centre #a4 ,from #b to #a place #a inch1 then curve the side-body from #ai to #a4 ,next1 measure from the centre of the back at ,z1 on the line under the arm1 to get the point ,d in front4 ,this should be one-half of the breast-measure 7#ah74 ,point ,d being placed1 draw a line from there up and down to ,n and to ,u1 at right angles with the line under the arm4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c4 ,to form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from ,n to ,p1 and1 using ,n as a pivot1 sweep from ,p to #ae4 ,one-quarter inch inside of front line at #ae we start to draw the curved front line to the bottom1 by going outside of ,d one-half inch and coming back to straight line again1 near ,u4 ,one and a half inches below the waist-line1 at ,u1 draw a line from ,t over to #ab4 ,from ,p to ,b draw a straight line2 then take the length of the back shoulder1 from ,a to ,g1 and place the same from ,p towards #ag1 and where this reaches is point #ag4 ,having located #ag1 curve from it above the line of shoulder at #ba1 and drop one-fourth inch below it at #bj2 and1 also1 from #bj draw the arm-hole past #ah to ,x2 but do not quite touch ,a1 and drop below ,v one-fourth inch4 ,point ,v is midway between ,s and ,h2 from it draw a straight line to #d2 curve a little on both sides of it2 that is1 starting from ,v1 keep following the line for two inches1 then gradually separate towards the waist-line1 so that you will have two curves1 which will be apart one-fourth inch near waist1 but coming together again at #d4 ,about one-half inch more forward than the middle1 between #ai and ,v1 fix point ,x2 and in the centre1 between #a and #d1 locate #c2 then draw a line from ,x to #c and curve it4 ,in the middle1 between ,h and ,d1 mark point #ab1 and in the middle1 between #ab and ,h1 point #ac4 ,measure the distance from front1 at ,u1 to #a1 and from #b to #a2 on this draft it will be #af inches4 ,now deduct from this the size of waist1 #ab inches1 and the remainder1 #d inches1 must be taken out in darts4 ,we put them in as follows3 ,from ,u to #e place a distance of #b inches for all average medium sizes2 from #e to #f is one dart of #b inches1 and between the darts1 from #f to #g1 is three-fourths inch1 then from #g to #h is another dart of #b inches4 ,take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from #g towards #ac for the height of the back dart1 and let the front one start one-half inch lower2 then draw them1 as shown1 from #bb and #bc to #i1 #aj1 #aa and #ab4 ,now1 at one-fourth inch below #a1 curve the lower line past #c1 and a trifle above it1 to #ab1 drop point #ab a little below the line2 also drop #aj a little below it2 from #i to ,t remain on the line straight across4 ,the draft is now finished by proportion1 and we can assure our readers that1 with the use of the sizes on our ,proportionate ,table1 it is applicable to all forms1 the manner of drafting remaining the same in all cases4 ,all our figures1 unless otherwise stated1 are drafted without seams4 ,we do this because it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different material than to draft it on the pattern4 ,,the ,,waist1 ,,by ,,measure4 ,the measures we shall use are the following3 ,breast1 #cf2 waist1 #bd2 length of natural waist1 #ae2 height under arm1 #g2 front of arm1 #aj2 width of back1 #f2 front length1 #ah4 ,in drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures as stated above to get all points on the draft4 ,all the lines and curves will come out in similar manner to the previous draft4 ,fig4 #d starts by drawing a line ,o-,f and ,o-,n2 go down from ,o three-fourths of an inch1 and in from ,o1 to ,a1 two inches1 and curve from to ,a4 ,from down1 measure the length of back #ae inches to ,f1 and at ,f draw a line over to the front and go in #a inches and mark a point4 ,from to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back4 ,up from ,f measure the height under arm #g inches to ,e1 and from ,e draw a line to the front4 ,from ,z to ,d is one-half of the breast-measure1 and draw the front line up and down4 ,also measure from ,z to ,s1 the actual width of the back1 and from ,z to ,h1 the front of the arm1 #aj inches1 or the blade measure which is taken from the front of the arm over the blade to the centre of the back4 ,at ,s and ,h draw lines up4 ,in the middle between ,o and ,e mark point ,b1 and in the middle between ,b and ,e point ,c1 and draw the lines across as shown4 7,see ,fig4 #d47 ,from where the lines cross at ,j1 draw one across to top of back at ,a1 and curve from ,a to ,g which point is one-half inch above ,j4 ,beginning at ,g curve arm-hole past ,j1 a trifle inside of line between ,j and ,r1 and from thence to ,v4 ,this last is midway between ,s and ,h4 ,make the bottom of the back #a inches wide4 ,this is only a medium1 as it can be made #a inch or #b inches1 which only places the seam either further back or more to the front4 ,then from ,r draw a straight line to #a and slightly curve a line drawn to #ai and to #b4 ,between #ai and #b curve more towards centre of back4 ,a few trials will enable you to make a nice shaped curve4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d4 ,from #b on back to side body at #a is #a inch1 and curve from #ai to #a4 ,from ,v1 straight down1 draw a line to #d and curve a trifle on either side of it1 also separate side-body from ,x to #c4 ,point ,x is midway between line ,r and ,v and the distance between #c and #d is about inch more than ,x to ,v4 ,take of the breast1 equal to #c inches1 and place it from point ,n to ,p and use point ,n as a pivot and sweep from ,p to #ae4 ,at a point on waist-line directly under ,h1 measure up past ,p1 shoulder point1 the front length1 which is in our measure #ah1 deducting the width of top of back1 and wherever it reaches to is point ,p4 ,this may1 sometimes1 when the person is erect1 reach above the line2 and again1 on hollow or stooping shoulders1 be below it4 ,wherever it reaches is the shoulder point1 and when it goes above we sweep at a point above ,n even with shoulder for neck1 and of course1 should it be below the line1 at a point below ,n1 so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the height of shoulder point4 ,illustration ,wherever point ,p is located by measure1 above or below1 or on the line1 start to draw the line to ,b1 on back1 for height of shoulder1 and place the width of back shoulder from ,a to ,g on this line from ,p to get point #ag4 ,then from #ag curve above it about one-quarter inch to ,p1 and also draw the arm-hole1 going inside of line ,h1 but never over one-half inch1 to ,v1 as shown on the diagram4 ,drop a trifle from #ag to #bj4 ,at the front1 draw the line starting inside of straight line of #ae one-quarter of an inch1 gradually curving out till at ,d we have one-half inch curve1 and thence going in again to the line at waist1 point ,u4 ,from ,u go down #a inch to ,t1 and draw a line across to #ab4 ,measure the distance ,f to ,u1 leaving out the opening between #a and #b1 which in this case will be #af inches4 ,now1 one-half of waist-measure1 #ab inches1 from #af leaves #d inches1 which must be taken out in darts4 ,to produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows3 first locate a point in the middle between ,h and ,d which gives #ab1 and in the centre between ,h and #ab1 another which is marked #ac4 ,from ,u to #e place #b inches1 as we never wish to have the first dart any nearer to the front1 then from #e to #f is one dart of #b inches or one-half of the amount to be taken out4 ,between the darts leave three-fourths inch1 and then place another dart of #b inches from #g to #h4 ,in the centre of each dart mark a point and draw lines from these to #ab and #ac4 ,one-third of the height under arm from #ac locates #bc while #bb is one-half inch lower1 and starting from each of the last points curve the darts as shown4 ,it will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top1 and that below the waist-line they run straight down without any spring being given4 ,from #a curve to #c and #d2 but between #c and #d it runs a trifle above waist-line1 and then from #d to #ab on lower line4 ,point #aj is a little lower than the line1 while it rests on line1 from #i to ,t4 ,this finishes the draft by measure1 and we have only to add that this1 as well as the preceding1 requires the adding of seams according to material used4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,large ,,size ,,waist4 ,in using this by measure1 draft in the same way as explained in another article1 the difference being only that the measure will be larger4 ,we will explain this by the ,proportionate ,method3 ,breast1 #dd inches2 waist1 #ca2 drafting size1 #ba1 or equal to a breast-measure of #dc inches4 ,it should be understood that this last size of breast is used only for the height1 while the original breast-measure must always be used for the width4 ,first draw line ,o-,c1 mark point ,o1 and draw a line at right angles with ,o-,c1 to ,a2 from ,o go down three-fourths inch to point #g1 the top of back4 ,from #g to ,c is the length of the waist1 #ae or #af inches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e4 ,at the waist go in #a inch from ,c2 draw a straight line from #g to #a for the centre of the back4 ,from ,o go down to point ,b1 one-quarter of the drafting size1 which is1 in this case1 #aj inches2 this is one-quarter of #dc1 as on large sizes the length is reduced in the shoulders to the drafting size4 ,now draw a line from ,b to ,h1 and one from ,c to ,j4 ,point ,d is in the centre between ,o and ,b2 then from ,d draw a line over to ,k4 ,from ,b to ,g is one-third and #a inch1 equal to #h inches1 and from ,g draw a line up4 ,from ,g to ,e is one-fourth1 equal to #e inches2 here also draw a line up4 ,from ,n1 on the back line1 to ,h1 place one-half of the full breast-measure1 which is #bb inches2 and at this point draw a line up and down1 thus making the front line ,a-,j4 ,from ,o to #f is one-eighth of breast1 #b inches4 ,from #g curve to #f1 for the top of back1 at neck2 from ,k to #f draw a line1 and at #f begin to curve the line for shoulder1 raising it one-half inch above ,k to #h4 ,also commence to curve the arm-hole from #h1 going inside of line one-eighth inch at #af1 and thence past #ae and #d to ,e4 ,midway between ,k and ,g is point #af4 ,start to make the seam for the back from #af1 past #ag to #a2 the last point is #a inch from #a4 ,when it is desired to produce a narrow shoulder1 raise the seam above #h one-half inch1 and back from #h fully #a inch1 and draw the arm-hole from #ah to #af4 ,to draw the first side-body1 place #a inch from #a to #b1 and curve the line from #af to #ag2 thence separate and curve nicely to #b4 ,in the centre1 between ,g and ,e1 mark point #d1 and draw a line straight down1 which will be #e2 and1 in the middle1 between #ag and #d1 fix point #ae4 ,also take the distance from #b to #e1 and fix a point in the centre1 which will be #c1 and then draw a line from #ae to #c2 curve a little on each side of these two lines1 as shown4 ,in producing the front1 be very careful to follow the instructions as here given3 ,from ,a to ,f is one-sixth of the breast-measure1 #c inches2 and the same amount from ,a to ,i2 now1 sweep from ,f to ,i1 using ,a as pivot2 from ,f to ,d draw a straight line1 and place the same distance1 as on the back shoulder from #f to #h1 on to ,f to #i1 and then curve it a little above the line at #bj2 finish the arm-hole by curving it from #ai downwards past ,e4 ,it will be seen that it runs over and in front of line ,e1 and one-fourth inch below breast-line at #d4 ,for the front edge1 commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at ,i1 and go gradually out to one-half inch at ,h1 and in again until it touches line at ,j and #ad4 ,now to manage to fix the darts3 ,measure from #a to #a-b1 to #c1 and #c to ,j2 this will give #ai inches4 ,but as the measure is only #ae1 one-half of #ca1 we take out the difference between these two widths in darts4 ,this amounts to #b inches1 which we take out in two darts of #a inch each4 ,first find the centre between ,h and ,e1 which fixes point ,r2 and the centre1 also1 between ,r and ,e1 which gives point ,p4 ,this first dart commences #b inches from ,j4 ,then put in one dart of #a2 inch4 ,between the darts1 let the space be #a inch1 and then place the width of the other dart1 which is also #a inch1 and fix a centre in each dart4 ,from ,r draw a line through the centre of the first dart1 and from ,p one through the centre of the second2 then curve the lines of both darts like those on the diagram4 ,the darts are started two-thirds of the distance up under the arm1 but the front one is made one-half inch shorter4 ,from ,j go down #a inch and draw a line across to #aj4 ,the bottom of the waist is straight from #ad to #ac4 ,at #ab begin one-fourth inch below and draw to the line at #aa4 ,from #aj1 also one-fourth inch below1 draw a curved line to #e1 raising to #c1 and back to #b4 ,when the back has been narrowed on the shoulders it becomes necessary1 also1 to conform the front to it2 as we have raised above #h to #ah one-half inch1 therefore1 we must reduce the shoulder on the front the same amount we added1 and it will bring it to #ai4 ,then the waist is finished4 ,let it again be stated that seams must be added1 except in the neck and arm-hole4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,low ,,neck ,,dress ,,waist4 ,it will be seen that the general arrangement of this draft is the same as all produced by this ,system4 ,the pointed basque-like shape at bottom is made to whatever length desired1 only1 it will be noticed1 they are made short on the side just over the hips4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f4 ,in making these waists low in the neck1 the first point to be considered is that they reach down lower on the shoulders1 and1 therefore1 we have to draft them so as to meet this requirement4 ,from ,s1 the original shaped draft1 we go out to #aj1 on line ,d-#aj1 #a to #a inch1 according to the lowness of opening2 the same is added from ,q to ,r1 and the arm-hole drafted from these two last points4 ,now1 decide how low it should be open1 and draw the curved lines from ,t to ,q1 and from ,b to #i4 ,the strap on shoulder can be made #a or #b inches wide4 ,if a short sleeve is wanted flatten the sleeve-head about the same amount as was added to the shoulder over ,s to #aj4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,basque ,,pattern4 ,this figure represents a short pointed basque as it can be produced by this ,system--whether by proportion or by measure4 ,we have already fully explained the manner of producing all the upper portions of the draft in previous articles1 and it is not necessary to go over it here again1 it being the same as any other waist4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #g4 ,from the waist down we place whatever length is wanted in the back to get point ,j or line ,b4 ,from #a and #a lines are drawn down1 and whatever is put on from ,s to back line must be also added from line at #cj to #bh4 ,illustration ,on a short basque the back line does not touch point ,j1 it having less spring1 and therefore the width of back1 at ,s1 is only a little more than at the waist1 or about one-half inch on each side of the straight lines4 ,from ,j to #bh curve up1 to taste4 ,if wanted with a high curve at side1 over the hips1 it may reach above #bh2 and when desired straight around the bottom draw it along bottom line1 or similar to a jacket1 as shown on other ,figures4 ,the side-body at bottom must start at ,s1 level with #bh1 rising up towards ,r4 ,q is even with ,r1 and from it to ,o draw the line a little lower4 ,point ,p is also level with ,o2 thence1 forward1 it is drawn so that the front point is either level with the back or longer pointed1 as shown on the ,figure1 where it is two inches lower4 ,the darts are placed the same as on a waist4 ,but below the waist line ,f they curve1 as shown4 ,the best way to produce a good result is to draw straight lines down from #aa1 #ab1 #ac and #ad1 drawing them inside or outside of these lines1 as shown4 ,it will thus be seen that #bc comes nearly in the centre of the second dart1 because more curve is here needed for the hips1 while the space between the darts is drawn so that the distance between #bd and #be is only a little more than at #ab to #ac4 ,in this way1 when the darts are sewn up they will take the shape1 or the seams will shape themselves like the centre-piece between the darts4 ,when dividing the side-body1 from #ah to #ai1 directly under the arm draw a straight line down and let the spring on each side of this line be equal1 as ,p and ,o4 ,also take out about one-fourth inch above the waist-line along the side-body seams1 to curve them more to the shape4 ,from #ae to #bj a straight line is also drawn1 and an equal amount is put each side of this line1 over the hips1 to ,r and ,o4 ,it will be noticed that point #ah is in the middle1 between line ,e and the line ,k1 or point ,s on ,fig4 #d2 and point #ae is midway between #ah and line ,k2 the width of the side-body1 at the waist1 is made wider2 the line from #ah is always drawn straight down1 then divide the distance from point #ai and #b1 the centre of which is #bj2 and from #ae through #bj draw the other line4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,polonaise4 ,this is drafted in the same manner as the one given in ,fig4 #g4 ,as1 however1 this is a long garment the amount of drapery must be increased2 therefore below the hip line ,d we spring out till at bottom1 point ,f1 it amounts to one inch4 ,at #d there is one inch over line2 at #f1 on side-body1 one inch2 there draw a straight line from #d down1 through this inch1 and curve the one-half inch over it4 ,on the side1 from #e to #g1 is #a inches1 the same at bottom4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h4 ,where #c and ,x1 of fore-part1 are located lay the side-body on top of it1 #a resting on #c1 and point #c1 of side-body1 resting on ,x1 then finish the line from ,x to #ad1 by the way the side-body lays1 and fix the length also by the side-body4 ,put in two darts1 letting them run only #d inches below the hip line4 ,,figs4 #i ,,and #aj4 ,,the ,,sleeve4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #i4 ,commence by drawing lines ,o-,e and ,o-,f4 ,use the arm-hole size to produce the sleeve1 and go down from ,o to ,b one-fourth of this2 ,a is in the middle between ,o and ,b4 ,draw lines across4 ,from ,o to ,f is one-half of arm-hole1 and from there draw a line down to ,k4 ,from ,b to ,f draw a straight line and halve it1 which will be point ,h2 and from this last also draw a short line at right angles with the diagonal line from ,h to ,j4 ,measure the length of line ,b-,f and take one-third of it and place it from ,h to ,j4 ,now1 using ,j as pivot1 sweep from line at top1 point #d1 around to the front and the back2 from ,b curve line past #e to this sweep4 ,where the sweep crosses line at ,g draw a line down to ,k4 ,go down from ,b to ,c three-fourths of an inch1 and from here measure the length of arm to ,e4 ,mark a point midway between ,b and ,e1 which gives ,d1 and draw a line across4 ,in the middle1 between the two parallel lines at back1 mark a point f4 ,now lay the square in such a position on the pattern that #e inches will touch point ,e and the long arm will touch f1 then draw along the bottom1 from ,e to ,n1 and to f4 ,illustration ,begin to curve from ,c1 past ,l to f1 and curve to ,n4 ,go in from ,d #a inch and draw the front-seam of the sleeve4 ,from ,x1 where the curve strikes line ,b1 begin to draw the under-sleeve parallel with upper part #f to #a4 ,measure from ,b around the sleeve-head to ,c1 and apply number of inches obtained to ,x1 and measure past #a towards #c1 the measure of arm-hole1 and #b inches more4 ,if the upper-sleeve measures #aa inches place #aa on to ,x and measure #af inches1 adding #b inches more to line at #c for a #af-sleeve4 ,wherever point #c is located begin to draw back arm-seam to bottom by running straight down1 curving out to #b1 or as much inside of line #g as f is outside of it4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,draw the line ,o-,g and ,o-,f4 ,from ,o to ,c go down one-third1 less one-half inch1 and draw line over to ,k4 ,in the middle1 between ,c and ,o1 draw also a line from ,b to ,h4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj4 ,from ,o to ,g is one-half of arm-hole size1 and draw a line from ,g downwards4 ,from ,c begin to curve the sleeve-top past ,i to ,h1 touching the top line at ,i4 ,from ,l to ,e apply the length of sleeve4 ,make ,f #a inches lower down than ,e4 ,from ,e to ,n is an average of #e inches4 ,draw a line from ,h past ,k to ,m and ,n1 curving it inside of ,k about one-half inch and curve the line only a trifle below the elbow4 ,go in from ,d #a inch1 and draw the inside seam from ,c to ,e4 ,this finishes the upper-sleeve4 ,for the under-sleeve draw from ,c1 curving under straight line to ,l1 thence to ,j4 ,point ,j is #a inch inside of ,h4 ,from ,j draw down to within one-half inch of ,m and to ,n4 ,the front-seam is the same as the upper-sleeve from ,c to ,e and ,n4 ,in drawing any sleeve use the measure of the arm-hole1 and bear in mind that this manner of drafting has the seams already included4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,skirts4 ,cutting and making a dress skirt1 of any style and kind1 is sometimes considered of very little importance4 ,by many dressmakers the work is entrusted to inexperienced hands and blocked out by a pattern which will not fit the form4 ,many fine costumes lack style because the laws of cutting skirts for the different figures have not been observed4 ,the fashion for the present1 and for some time past1 requires the skirt to be fitted with as much care as any other part of the dress4 ,all fullness must be so arranged as to fall into the back breadths of the train4 ,the sloping of the bottom must be proportionate1 so as to give a straight even effect across the front and sides and allow the train to suddenly spring out at the lower part of the back widths4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa4 ,the careful sloping of the gores at the sides causes the train to fall into a fan-like sweep4 ,the necessity of fine slopes1 and a difference of those in different costumes1 as well as for different figures1 will be readily appreciated when we observe the use for which the dress is intended4 ,in a walking dress1 as it should be to be in harmony with style and the present demands of fashion1 the skirts should adhere closely all around the front and sides1 leaving whatever fullness there may be at the back4 ,in order to gain this1 darts are required between the breadths1 which reduce the size needed over the hips down to the size at waist4 ,as the hips proportionately increase at a given ratio at the sides it must be evident that1 in order that the skirt may fall down fairly over the hips1 these darts at side must be larger there1 while towards the front they must be smaller4 ,the bottom should have a regular sweep4 ,this sweep can be gained the easiest by laying the gores in a closing position on the table1 drawing a straight line along the centre of the front and extending upwards about the same length as the skirt4 ,at the centre of the back breadth another line is drawn far enough up to cross the first line4 ,in this shape the two lines would represent a cone2 at the point attach a string to a pin driven into the table1 and extending this string to the lower length of the skirt sweep around the bottom--this will produce a correct effect in every case4 ,the front width is now cut wide enough so that only one additional width is needed at each side4 ,as we have already said1 much depends upon goring the sides as regards fitting the hips1 but on stout ladies extra care must be taken that the front be also sufficient to cover the round form of the body4 ,the defect liable to occur in this point has the same result as not sloping enough at the side for large hips1 namely1 the skirt will hitch-up on the waist-band4 ,putting on a skirt to the band is of equal importance4 ,a dart in the apron or front width gives sufficient fullness over the round of the body in front2 so also do darts at side4 ,all the rest of the fullness should be pleated or gathered into the few inches left of the band after the front and sides have been sewed to the band4 ,we should not advise any one to cut out a skirt1 whether short or with train1 with out a good pattern1 unless they understand how to draft one and know the points of the different shapes in gores4 ,such skirt patterns we are prepared to forward to any address1 on application1 but in order that students may acquire an idea of how to cut them1 ,fig4 #aa will show the general form and shape of them4 ,draw line ,a1 and make it #de inches long1 and mark off all the distances on the line1 as shown by the number of inches given at all these points2 draw lines across at right angles to line ,a4 ,draw a line from point #f to #ab and curve it to within one-half inch of #f1 and then curve slightly one-half inch below line at centre to #f on line ,a4 ,this finishes top of front breadth2 connect #ab and #de1 which finishes the bottom4 ,finish the top of side-breadth by drawing lines from #g to #aa1 curving these lines like ,figure2 at the bottom1 curve from #ab to #db4 ,connect points #cb and #db1 also #bb and #ab1 by straight lines1 which finishes the back part2 this will give a skirt #ch inches long and the prevailing width4 ,lay the front part1 line ,a1 on the fold of the goods4 ,in sewing to the band the front and side-breadths are left plain while the back is pleated in three or four large pleats4 ,,figs4 #ab1 #ac1 #ad4 ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,it will be seen that every shape and style of garment must be drafted in the same manner as the principle employed in the construction of the waist-body or basque4 ,we first commence to draw the back line ,b and ,o to ,f 7,fig4 #ab74 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ac4 ,from ,o down1 on the first line1 place three-fourths of an inch1 and from ,o over to ,f1 one-eighth of the breast-measure1 or simply #b inches1 on average size4 ,starting at 1 measure down to ,c1 the length of natural waist1 and to ,d1 the full parts of the hips2 also to ,e the length wanted4 ,from ,c up to ,b place the height under the arm4 ,now at every one of these points draw lines across1 all at right angles with the first line4 ,go in from ,c to ,n #a inch1 and then draw a line from 1 at top1 to ,n1 and from the last point to ,e1 and curve the back-line1 as shown from 1 past ,r4 ,from ,n to ,m make the width of back1 at waist1 #b inches or more1 as desired4 ,starting at ,r1 place the width of back to ,g and draw a line up to ,s4 ,in the middle1 between ,o and ,b1 fix point ,a1 and from there draw a line over to ,j4 ,from the point where lines ,a-,j and ,g-,s cross draw a line to ,f4 ,raise above ,j one-half inch to ,s and curve the shoulder from ,f to ,s2 then from ,s go inside of line at ,j and curve the arm-hole of the back to ,i4 ,this last point is midway between ,j and ,g4 ,from ,i draw a line to ,n1 then commence at ,i and draw line for the side-seam to #h1 going inside of straight line a trifle and thence with a decided curve to ,m4 ,draw a right-angle line with the waist-line ,f down to #c from ,n1 and to #d from #b4 ,now whatever the distance ,e is drawn from #c must be placed from #d to #e1 and the back may be finished by drawing the line from #b to #e4 ,in case it is desired to make a narrow back1 point ,e may be nearer to #c2 in such case point #e would also be nearer to #d4 ,cut the back out1 and in order to draw the side-body lay it on the paper in such a manner that there will be room enough to cut it out without piecing4 ,,the ,,side-,,body4--,,fig4 #ac4 ,lines ,d-,f and ,o are extended over4 ,from #b to #aj is #a inch in every case4 ,draw from ,i1 along the back1 to #h1 and from thence begin to separate from the back and curve to #aj and down to #f1 which is the point on the back where line ,o and the line from #b downwards cross4 ,from #f down give this line a nice curve1 not springing out too much nor making it too flat--a medium is what is desired4 ,from ,b to ,k is one-fourth of the breast-measure4 ,curve from ,i to ,h and ,k4 ,about #a inch inside of ,k draw a line down to ,l1 which should make the side-body as wide from #h to ,h as #aj to ,l4 ,at right angles with waist-line draw one down from #aj to #c1 and another from ,l to #d4 ,now whatever the distance is from #c to #e should be placed from #d to #f1 and then the seam from ,l is drawn past #aa to #f4 ,make the length at bottom one-half inch longer at #e to #f2 also notice that the distance from #g to #aa may be a little more than that from #i to #f1 as more ease over the hip1 at side1 is desirable4 ,,the ,,front4--,,fig4 #ad4 ,all the lines are extended over on the paper1 and the side-body and back are laid in the position as when they were drafted1 and as shown4 ,first measure from ,b to ,v1 one-half the breast-measure1 and draw line ,a up and down4 ,from ,b to ,r is the measure to the front of the arm1 where a line is drawn up4 ,from ,p back1 place one-sixth of the breast to ,n1 here draw a line up and down1 as shown4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ad4 ,measure up from star on side1 marked ,z1 to line at ,n1 the front length less the width of the top of back1 and where this reaches on the line fix the height4 ,from this height draw a line to ,a1 which gives the height of shoulder4 ,from ,p as pivot sweep from ,n to #ba for neck4 ,place the length of back shoulder from ,f to ,s on to ,n1 on line ,n1 and where it reaches will be point #bb4 ,drop one-half inch below line and curve from #bb to #bc1 which is one-fourth above the line1 to ,n4 ,also curve arm-hole from #bb through ,r to ,h4 ,draw the front line one-half inch inside at #ba1 curving outside one-half inch near ,v1 coming back to line at ,u1 and outside one-half inch at bottom to point #bj4 ,from ,h1 through ,l1 draw line to #aa4 ,whatever the distance from #aa to #bd is place over from #aa to #ac and then curve from ,l1 through #ab1 to #ac4 ,sweep the bottom from #ac by a point #a inch back of ,n and flatten this curve near #ad4 ,midway between ,r and ,v fix point #b1 and midway between #b and ,r point #a4 ,measure the distance from the front at ,u to #aj and from #b to ,c4 ,deduct the half size of waist from this last and the remainder is taken out in darts4 ,from ,u to #ab is #b inches4 ,from #ab to #i is one-half of what is to be taken out in darts4 ,from #i to #h is always three-fourths of an inch4 ,from #h to #g is another dart4 ,fix a point in the centre of the darts and draw a straight line from #a and #b to #f and #e2 and at right angles with waist-line draw lines from centre of dart down to the bottom4 ,now1 one-third of the height under arm1 down1 fix point #c1 and make #d one-half inch more4 ,draw the darts from #c and #d through the points1 as shown1 to #ae and #ad4 ,,fig4 #ae4 ,,double-,,breasted ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,illustration ,draft by measure--breast1 #cf2 waist1 #bd2 and hip1 #dj4 ,length to waist #ad1 and full length1 #bf4 ,by using these measures we will endeavor to show how to draft a jacket1 each piece separately1 thus doing away with the over-lapping of patterns as it occurs when it is drafted altogether1 as in our previous articles on proportionate cutting4 ,it is the same principle1 but more practical1 as a pattern can thus be cut whole in the skirt4 ,commence by drawing the back construction line from ,o to ,l and ,o to ,p4 ,from ,o down is three-fourths inch to ,t4 ,from ,o to ,e is one-fourth of breast--#i inches4 ,from ,t measure down to the waist #ad inches1 and the full length to ,l1 #bf inches1 and from ,o over on top line to #e two inches1 and curve the top1 ,t1 to #e4 ,b is midway between ,o and ,e4 ,k is #f inches below the waist2 now draw all the lines across4 ,at ,f go in #a inch to back1 and draw a curved line from the centre seam of the back1 from ,t to #a1 and spring out three-fourths inch at #i1 thence to ,l4 ,from ,e to #g is one-third and one inch1 equal to #g inches4 ,draw a line up from #g to #c1 and one from #e to #c4 ,raise above #c one-half inch to #d1 then curve the shoulder-seam of the back2 form also the curved line from #d to #f4 ,point #f is midway between #c and #g4 ,make the width of the back at waist #b inches1 and from #b draw a straight line down to the bottom4 ,now curve the side seam from #f past #b to #aj at bottom1 which point is three-fourths of an inch outside of the straight line1 also connect ,l and #aj by a line4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ae ,,the ,,side-,,body4 ,cut out the back and lay it on the paper in such a manner that the breast-line will lay on the same line further towards the front1 so that there will be sufficient room at the bottom to draft out the side-body whole4 ,now1 first draw along the edge of the back from #f to #b2 go in at #b one inch1 and curve from the blade down to #ac4 ,at #ac draw a straight line down1 and curve out from #ac to #ah2 this last will be exactly underneath point #h of the back1 and from here to the bottom draw it with a slight curve to #bj1 which is the same length as point #aj of the back4 ,from #ad to #ac is #b inches1 and make the distance from #aa to #ab the same2 now draw a straight line from #ab to #ad1 and down to the bottom4 ,go out from #ae to #af one inch1 and curve seam from #ad to #ai1 which should not be over #a inch outside of straight line4 ,draw line from #bj to #ai4 ,,the ,,front4 ,lay the side-body on breast-line and back in position against side-body1 so that the breast-line of each lays correct and straight1 then measure from ,i on centre of the back to the centre of the front ,d1 half-breast1 or #ah inches2 at this last point draw a line up and down for front line4 ,illustration ,point #ab of the side-body will now be the same as point #ba of the front2 draw down to #bg a line with a slight curve to shape in at waist2 also draw a straight line down from #bg to #ce at bottom4 ,from ,p to ,c is one-sixth1 or #c inches1 and the same to #bc1 now sweep the neck from ,p4 ,from ,c1 which is one-half inch above the top line for erect or ordinary builds1 on the line draw one to ,b on the back4 ,now measure the length of shoulder on the back from #e to #d1 and place the same from ,c to #bb1 and curve a little above it1 as shown in ,fig4 #ae4 ,from ,g on side-body forward to front of arm is one-fourth1 or #d inches1 where a line is drawn from ,h2 then finish arm-hole from #bb to ,h and #ba4 ,finish the side-seam by going out at #ca #a inch to #cc1 and curve seam to #cd2 also locate the length by laying the side-body1 point #ab1 on #ba1 and where #ai comes is #cd4 ,from ,c1 by #cd1 sweep the bottom of front and straighten this some in the centre4 ,at the centre of breast-line1 beyond ,d1 put one-half of breast1 and curve the front line from #bc to waist at ,s1 where it comes back to the straight line1 and thence to the bottom at #cj1 where it is one-half inch outside of it4 ,for a double-breasted jacket make the lap #b inches at breast1 #b at waist1 and #b at bottom4 ,whatever the size of the draft at waist1 from points ,s to #a on back1 exceeds the actual measure must be taken out in darts4 ,in this ,figure we take out one dart only1 starting in the centre1 ,j1 which is between ,h and ,d1 and take out between points #be and #bf1 the full amount which will be about #b or #c inches1 starting the dart at #bd1 two-thirds above #be1 and finishing about #d inches below the hip-line4 ,in case two darts are preferred they are put in as already shown in previous ,figures4 ,,fig4 #af4 ,,sack ,,jacket4 ,this shows the manner of drafting a jacket with an extra piece under the arm and only one dart in the front4 ,the correctness of the lines1 and the simplicity of the process1 will be of much benefit to our students4 ,this method is the same as we have given in several different styles1 and therefore it is drafted in a similar manner4 ,it requires only one method to draft all kinds of garments1 and our aim in giving the different shapes is to familiarize our readers with its application to a variety of shapes and styles1 so that whatever garment they may be called to cut they will be able to do it4 ,illustration ,let us take a size--#cf breast1 #bd waist1 with a length of #cj inches1 and a waist reaching down from neck #ae inches4 ,in drafting1 first draw the line ,o-,f4 ,from ,o go down three-fourths inch for the top of the back4 ,from the top of the back to ,d is the length to the waist1 #ae inches2 from the same point down to the bottom of the garment measure #cj inches to ,f4 ,at ,d go in to point #ad #a inch4 ,then from the top of the back to #ad draw a straight line1 and also draw one from #ad to ,f1 curve slightly over the line below #ad1 past #bj1 to ,f4 ,make the width from #ad to #b two inches1 and run a line parallel with back-line from #b to #bi1 and curve it a trifle1 as shown on the ,figure4 ,from ,o go down to ,c one-quarter of the breast1 which is #i inches1 and draw a line across4 ,draw a line from ,o over to ,k at right angles with the back-line4 ,in the middle1 between ,o and ,c1 fix a point marked ,b and draw a line over to ,n4 ,from ,c to ,g is one-third breast and #a inch1 equal to #g inches1 and draw a line at right angles with line ,c-,g4 ,from ,g to ,h is one-fourth breast1 equal to #d inches1 there draw a line at right angles with the one under arm4 ,from #a1 centre of back1 to ,j1 at the front of the breast1 place one-half of the breast-measure1 equal to #ah inches1 and at ,j draw a right angle line up and down like line ,k-,j and ,s4 ,from ,o to #ac is #b inches4 ,from ,n to #ac draw a line1 and then1 commencing at #ac1 curve the shoulder1 letting it rise above the last line one-half inch to #ad4 ,starting three-fourths inch inside of line ,g begin to curve the arm-hole past #ab to #ag and ,h4 ,in the middle1 between ,n and ,g1 fix the point to start seams from for the back4 ,draw line from thence past #ai to #b and #bi--this makes the back with narrow shoulders4 ,to draw the first side-body place from #b to #c one inch1 curve the line from #ai to #c1 gradually beginning to separate below #ai without curving too much1 care being taken to get a neat curve4 ,below #c curve toward the back till at hip1 #ba1 it will meet the back1 and thence downwards1 till at the bottom it will over-lap the back #a inch to #cj4 ,make the width of side-body at the top any distance desired1 say #c inches1 and make it the same at waist1 or from #c to #d1 #c inches4 ,then curve from #ag to #d4 ,lay a long straight-edge1 closing at #ag1 and three-fourths inch from point #d2 while in this position mark a line along it from the hip-line downward1 and connect it by a curve from #d to #bd4 ,go in from #d to #e a distance of three-fourths inch1 and curve from #ag to #e1 but be careful to commence to separate side-body only #a inch below #ag4 ,lay a straight-edge1 as before1 at #ag1 and three-fourths inch from #e1 so that it will lay towards front1 then from hip downwards draw a line to the bottom and finish by curving from #e to meet this at hip1 #bc4 ,from #ag to #ah may be only #a or #b inches1 according to the size--#b inches will be sufficient for a #cf breast4 ,draw a straight line to #f and take out a slight curve to shape it to the form4 ,again1 lay a straight-edge against #ah1 and three-fourths inch from #f1 and mark along it from the hips downward2 curve from #f to hip4 ,commencing at #ah1 curve the front to #g1 taking out one-half inch1 then lay a straight-edge against #ah1 and three-fourths inch from #g mark along it below the hips and finish the curve from #g to #be4 ,to produce the front1 place from ,k to ,p one-sixth of breast1 equal to #c inches1 also the same from ,k to #af4 ,from ,p to ,b draw a line1 then place the same distance as on the back shoulder from #ac to #bd on to ,p to produce point #ae1 or the length of front shoulder1 curve it above this line1 and at #ae drop it one-half inch below4 ,at #ae curve the arm-hole to ,h1 going outside of the line enough to give the arm-hole a good shape1 but under no consideration go beyond point ,h--rather go inside4 ,curve the front-line one-fourth inch inside of #af1 and outside at ,j one-half inch1 and coming back to ,r1 where it should spring out to the bottom one-half inch at ,s4 ,add beyond last curve #a inch for the lap1 on a single-breasted jacket1 all the way down4 ,measure from #ad to #b1 #c to #d1 #e to #f1 and #g to ,r1 which will be about #ae inches2 but as the waist must be #ab inches1 or one-half of #bd1 we must take out the difference in a dart1 which is #c inches4 ,divide the space between ,h and ,j which gives point ,i1 and from this draw a straight line down4 ,go down from ,i #b inches to #ag4 ,on each side of the line at #i place one-half of the dart1 #a inch1 then curve from #ag to #h1 #bg and #ce2 also from the same point to #aj1 #bh and #cf4 ,at the bottom it should be three-fourths inch4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #af4 ,the bottom of the first side-body must be one-half inch longer than the back2 the second the same length as the first2 and the front must start at the same length as the second1 and curve forward #a inch below line #cc to #cg4 ,,fig4 #ag4 ,,short ,,jacket4 ,this gives a short jacket1 of a neat1 peculiar shape4 ,as regards the darts all points are the same as given in ,fig4 #ah1 except that instead of putting in two side-bodies we only cut a dart out under the arm1 and one across the front1 both being equal1 of a size required to make the waist lay close4 ,the dart in front is started from ,h and runs into the pocket4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ag4 ,the back is made #d inches wide at the waist and wide enough at the bottom to harmonize with it4 ,point ,f is the hip4 ,any sleeve cut to the size of arm-hole will go with this4 ,,fig4 #ah4 ,,jersey ,,blouse4 ,draw line ,o-,j and ,o-,f4 ,from ,o to ,d is one-fourth of breast4 ,from ,o to #bj is three-fourths inch4 ,from ,o to ,d take one-half the distance to get point ,b1 and in the centre1 between ,b and ,d1 is point ,c4 ,from #bj to ,e is length of back and to ,f the full length4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ah4 ,go in from ,e #a inch and draw the back-line from #bj to #a and to ,f4 ,from ,o is #b inches for top of back to #b4 ,from ,d is one-third of breast and #a inch to ,g4 ,draw a line up from ,g to #f4 ,from #f draw one to #b and curve #a inch above it at #a4 ,curve arm-hole from #a through #i to #aj4 ,from ,g to ,h is one-fourth of breast--#d inches on a #cf breast4 ,draw a line up4 ,from back1 near ,d1 to ,k is one-half of breast4 ,draw line up and down4 ,from ,j back to ,i is one-sixth of breast1 and the same down to #c4 ,from ,i to #f draw a line4 ,curve above line at #ah one-half inch for front shoulder1 and curve the arm-hole from #ah to #ag1 and ,h to #aj4 ,point #aj is about #a inch from ,g4 ,make the width of back #e inches from #a and #i inches to point #aj1 and #aj inches at bottom4 ,then curve the side-seam at #aj to #e and ,u4 ,from ,n1 at front of the waist1 go in #c inches1 to #af #d inches1 and to #d #f inches4 ,draw a straight line up and down through #af1 and form the dart1 from #bj1 through #c and #d1 to #e and #f4 ,lay the back on the front to meet at #aj1 #e on ,v1 #h on ,u1 to get the right curve for the side seam4 ,measure the waist and make the distance at ,v to correspond with it4 ,using ,i as pivot sweep from #h for the bottom of the front4 ,add one-half inch button-stand1 and #a inch on the side the buttons are sewed on4 ,buttons should be #a inch apart4 ,the ,jersey is finished with standing collar4 ,this pattern is intended only for goods which are elastic--like stockinet or tweed4 ,the seams in the dart and at side should be stretched somewhat in pressing1 thus allowing them to fit closer to the form4 ,,fig4 #ai4 ,,girl',s ,,sack4 ,illustration ,this is a sack for a young girl of size #ca breast1 close-fitting4 ,the figure illustrates a very jaunty and comfortable jacket4 ,for the ,fall ,season it should be made of heavy ribbed cloaking1 of a dark shade of grey1 and an extra neat finish is obtained by binding it with a braid of a darker shade1 and buttons to match the braid4 ,it has eight buttons in front1 is cut single-breasted1 with a very small turn-over lapel1 which allows it to be buttoned up close to the neck4 ,a side edge is imitated on the back by braid1 and three buttons put on it4 ,the full-size pattern may be cut by following the ,figure1 as represented1 using inches for every number marked out4 ,in order that this may be readily understood we will go over this manner of doing it again1 so that our readers who desire to take them off may not make any mistakes4 ,first draw a line on the edge of paper1 and draw out the back first1 by fixing a point at the top4 ,o is the starting point4 ,from ,o go down in inches as indicated by the points marked 1 #b1 #e1 #ac1 #bj and #cd4 ,draw lines across from these points and apply the numbers on the ,figure to these lines4 ,when all these points are fixed connect the points by lines1 which will form the outlines of the back4 ,for the side-body use the same process and you will have the full size4 ,it can be made double-breasted by adding #a inch in front of the breast all the way down4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ai4 ,,fig4 #bj4 ,,braided ,,jacket4 ,this ,figure represents a fashionable style of close-fitting jackets for ,spring wear4 ,they are made single-breasted1 having the buttons close together1 and have the appearance of a ,jersey4 ,the same may be made double-breasted by the addition of #b inches to the front4 ,in trimming they may be plain1 with nothing but small flat lasting1 or a round crochet button4 ,braid in military style may be used1 or a simple binding4 ,the ,figure is drawn from a pattern of a #cf breast1 #be waist2 the length may be regulated to taste4 ,in drafting this pattern use inches for all the figures on the draft4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bj4 ,,fig4 #ba4 ,,double-,,breasted ,,cut-,,away ,,jacket4 ,this gives an elegant and very stylish jacket4 ,the front is double-breasted towards the top with a broad1 sharp lap1 while at the waist only one button is used4 ,in order to enlarge the draft to full size1 which is a #cf inch breast-measure1 use inches for all the figures on the draft4 ,the jacket itself is finished at the neck with a collar1 which is put on to the cape4 ,the front1 at the neck1 is held together by an agraffe ornament4 ,this garment1 as it should appear1 may be seen by the illustration4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ba4 ,,fig4 #bb4 ,,lady',s ,,jacket4 ,these drafts illustrate a new style of lady's jacket1 which will be acceptable to many for street wear4 ,the style and general effect at once denote the character of the garment4 ,the jacket is well adapted for outdoor wear4 ,it is made with a moderate addition for double-breasted added on to the fore-part1 and the button holes are worked in close together1 as the buttons now used are so very small2 therefore1 on this jacket1 they are placed only one inch apart4 ,the waist is medium length1 and the skirt can be made to suit the height of the lady4 ,a lap-over is made at the centre of the back skirt1 finished off with small buttons put close together4 ,the pockets may be put in at the side like a coat pocket1 or only a flap put on1 leaving the top edge unfastened1 which forms the opening4 ,in the latter case it can be ornamented with buttons4 ,pockets1 however1 are only put in when it is cut longer than ,figure4 ,the sleeves are narrow1 finished by a row of buttons1 and can be regulated in width by the measure of the arm4 ,this is very essential1 as ladies now-a-days like the sleeve as close as possible4 ,the darts are cut down to the bottom1 which is more preferable to running them to a point1 as a seam looks better which runs continuously to the bottom4 ,cutting the dart so that it reaches only to the hip1 will1 unless carefully made1 rise up in a puff at its lower end4 ,it must always be borne in mind that the spring must be allowed to rise at the side-seam4 ,the sudden rise of a lady's hip1 and the marked difference between the size of the waist and of the body but a few inches below1 make it extremely difficult to obtain the necessary amount of freedom for the prominence of the figure at this part of the body4 ,the bottom edge of this jacket should be edged on the inside by a facing of silk1 which is held on tight so that the edge may cling close to the dress-skirt4 ,the collar is cut like a coat-collar and the lapel rolls short4 ,a narrow binding one-half inch wide is put on the edge on all goods with a close and firm texture1 while on heavy1 loose material1 the stitching looks more appropriate4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bb4 ,the button-holes run down to the bottom of the skirt4 ,this form of jacket makes up well in fine diagonal or brocaded velvet4 ,for heavy winter wear1 rough suiting will make very stylish garments4 ,the lower edge of this jacket may be drawn straight across instead of curving up over the hips as on the ,figure1 and then it is equally as well adapted to be worn with any dress1 as in the shape we illustrate4 ,,fig4 #bc4 ,,single-,,breasted ,,long ,,sack4 ,figure #bc represents a long1 close-fitting1 single-breasted sack1 consisting of back1 side-body1 front and sleeve4 ,they are all drawn by measuring the lines1 and placing the number of inches on each line as designated by the numbers shown on the ,figure4 ,thus1 for the back draw a straight line from ,o1 then apply each measure as shown1 and draw the lines across at right angles with the line ,o4 ,when these figures are all located1 finish by drawing the outlines4 ,draw the straight line ,o down to the desired length for the side-body2 at #bh apply the figures on the lines--when these are all fixed curve the outlines4 ,for the front1 draw the straight line down from ,o1 and mark the number of inches for both length and width2 when these are all fixed finish the outlines4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bc4 ,the sleeve is drawn from ,o down to the required length1 applying the number of inches for length as well as width1 as shown2 after these have all been found1 and the line drawn at right angles with the line ,o1 draw the outlines4 ,after the upper part of the sleeve has been drawn cut it out2 then locate the points for the under-sleeve1 and lay the back of upper-sleeve against the points of the back part of the under-sleeve1 and draw it like the back of upper-sleeve2 fix the points in front1 and lay the upper-sleeve on and draw for the front of sleeve1 then finish for top1 as shown4 ,,fig4 #bd4 ,,jacket ,,or ,,cloak--,,from ,a ,,waist ,,pattern4 ,the method which is explained below is one of the most handy1 as well as the easiest1 that can be used1 and will invariably produce good results4 ,it is evident1 in the first place1 that the original pattern must have the essential qualities of fit and good lines1 otherwise it would be of little value as a base or guide to produce another garment4 ,in order to get such a waist pattern one must be able to design it1 or have it on hand2 in the latter case we are prepared to furnish these patterns when ordered4 ,,the ,,back3 ,in drafting a jacket pattern1 first draw a line 7like ,o-,g7 on the edge of your paper4 ,lay the back against the line at ,o and within #a inch of the line at the waist1 then trace along the centre seam from ,o to #e4 ,now move it one-fourth inch away1 this is for seam2 then the same quantity is allowed above at neck from #a to #b and from #b to #c4 ,along the arm-hole1 from #c to #d1 trace close to the pattern4 ,measure next the length wanted from ,o to #e and #i and draw a line over to #aj4 ,from #e to #i draw a straight line1 and then curve outside of this1 at point #h1 about one-half inch1 as shown on ,figure4 ,make the width of waist any size desired1 say #c inches1 which establishes point #g1 and from this point draw a line down to #aj4 ,this line should be no further away from the first line at #aj than at #g1 or the distance from the line #i to #aj should be the same as at waist1 from #a to #g4 ,now1 starting at #d1 slightly curve to #g and go one-half inch outside of straight line to #aj4 ,,the ,,side-,,body4 ,in this case1 as on the back1 the first thing we do is to draw a straight line from ,o to #aj4 ,now lay the side-body against it1 at ,o1 and swing it away from the line at the waist #a inch4 ,trace along the pattern from ,o to #a4 ,then move the pattern one-fourth inch away from the last line1 which would leave from #a to #c just one-fourth inch for the seam4 ,from #e to #f go in one-half the distance allowed over and above the allowance on the back1 as from #f to #g4 ,now curve the side-body from #b to #e1 keeping as nearly as possible the same shape as the original4 ,then from #e draw a line down parallel with the first line which runs from ,o to #aj4 ,now apply the back from #b to #i and regulate the length1 which is point #i2 then from #e curve one-half inch outside of straight line at #h to #i4 ,at #i1 square across to #aj1 and also draw a straight line from #a to #aj1 and begin to curve from #c1 past #g1 to #aj4 ,this curve should be more round near hip1 or begin to curve closer to the waist4 ,the curves on the back and on the side seam1 from #e to #h1 may be gradual1 as it thus has the appearance of being longer waisted than it actually is4 ,,the ,,front4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bd4 ,first draw the straight line like ,o-,b4 ,lay the fore-part of the pattern against this line1 touching at the centre of the breast1 ,b1 and trace along it at the front from #a to the bottom at #c4 ,next move the pattern back one-half inch to ,b4 ,trace along the arm-hole without any allowances1 but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch1 also a trifle at neck4 ,on the side-seam1 from #ae to #bj1 add one-fourth inch2 then lay the finished side-body on top of the front1 touching point #ae1 and at the waist at #bj1 and finish the balance from #bj to #bb by the side-body4 ,now from the top of the shoulder-point1 by the bottom1 point #bb1 sweep the bottom to the front at ,b4 ,from #c to ,b draw a straight line1 and for a double-breasted jacket1 as the ,figure given1 add on to the front1 at ,b1 #c inches1 at waist #b inches1 at the bottom #c inches1 and shape it as shown4 ,at the bottom1 after it has been curved by a sweep1 straighten it one-half inch above the sweep in the centre4 ,instead of two darts at the back only one is used1 as shown1 and this one can be increased one-half inch1 and a cut is also taken out under the arm from #af to #ag4 ,it is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one1 or when the same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether without altering the balance in any manner4 ,to produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from ,c1 where it is intended to roll1 to ,e1 which is one-half inch from curved line of neck2 then drop down from this line at #ac to #aa one inch and curve the break1 as shown from #aa to ,e4 ,from #aa to #ab is inch2 curve this also to neckline at ,f1 and thence along the neck to the front4 ,from #aa to #ac make the part of collar which is to turn over #a to #b inches wide1 and shape to the front at ,g4 ,sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained4 ,,figs4 #be ,,and #bf4 ,,walking ,,coat4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #be4 ,by using a sack pattern1 cut to the measure1 a walking-coat can be cut in the most ready manner4 ,the back is the same as a sack-jacket4 ,we only measure from the top down to the length of open skirt ,a4 ,from here add the lap for pleats2 single pleats require only #a inch2 box pleats1 according to size1 #b to #d inches4 ,the side-body is cut off at a length to correspond to #b on back1 plus one-half inch1 and curved up some towards side seam4 ,the front is made as long as the side-body1 and the bottom swept from the shoulder-point4 ,when cut it will leave the skirt in pieces as #a1 #b1 #c and #d4 ,now take these pieces and lay them down1 closing at hip1 so that the opening will be no more at bottom than at top2 they lay close together at #ab1 #ac and #ad4 ,now draw along the skirt at back from #d to #ae4 ,from #d draw towards #e1 raise one-half inch above the pattern to #aj1 curving pattern at front4 ,put in a dart at #g4 ,from #aa to #af trace along the front1 and also along the bottom4 ,add the pleat behind4 ,the side-body in this ,figure is laid in a closing position at side1 point #b1 to show that the seam must have a continuous curve from #a and #b to the front4 ,the distance from #a and #b to #c1 and from there to the front1 is noted1 and the skirt from #d to #e-g and #aa should be just the same with #a inch more added1 which is pressed in before the skirt is seamed on to the fore-part4 ,it will be noticed that in laying the pieces of the of the skirt together they close at #ad1 #ab and #ac1 but at the top and bottom they are separated1 equal distances1 the cut at #g reduces one opening1 and #a inch fullness equalizes the amount the fullness is greater at #i and forward4 ,the addition for single and double-breasted is made by adding on in front of the fore-part and also on to the skirt3 for a single-breasted #a inch is enough1 but for a double-breasted from #b to #c inches is required4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bf4 ,,fig4 #bg4 ,,double-,,breasted ,,newmarket ,,jacket4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bg4 ,commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts--by the ,proportionate ,system--by drawing line from ,o to ,f4 ,from ,o go down to #aa three-fourths of an inch1 and to #aj #b inches2 from #aa to #aj curve the top of the back1 and measure from the top of the back1 at #aa1 to ,c1 the length of waist #ae inches1 to ,d #ah inches and to ,f the full length1 #cb inches2 at ,c1 ,o and ,f draw right angle lines across4 ,from ,c to the back is #a inch2 ,draw a line from #aa to #a1 and one from #a to ,f2 make the width of back from #a to #b inches wide4 ,from ,o to ,b is one-fourth of the breast-measure1 #i inches in a #cf inch breast1 and ,a is midway between these two points2 draw lines over from ,a and ,b4 ,from ,b to ,g is one-third of breast and #a inch1 equal to #g inches2 from ,g to ,h is one-fourth of breast1 or #d inches4 ,from ,y to ,j is one-half of breast1 #ah inches2 draw lines up from ,g1 ,h and ,j1 also down from ,j to ,n4 ,where line ,a crosses line ,g1 at ,m1 draw another line from ,m to #aj2 raise one-half inch above ,m to ,v1 and draw a curved line from #aj to ,v4 ,commence to curve the arm-hole from ,v to ,m and ,h1 dropping one-fourth inch below breast-line at #ae4 ,in the centre1 between ,m and ,g1 begin to draw the back to #b at waist1 and from there1 with a slight curve1 to ,z at the bottom1 so that the distance from ,f to ,z will be about equal to that from ,c to #b4 ,go in from #b to #c one inch and shape the side-body from line under the arm to #c and ,s1 where it touches the back2 make the side-body any width desired1 say #b inches to #ad1 the same from #c to #d1 curve the seam under the arm and spring it out below #d to #ba1 to give it ease over the hips2 also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from #ad to #d and #bj4 ,from ,s curve up to #ba1 which latter point is #a inch above the line ,s-#ah4 ,point #bj is on the same level as #ba1 the line runs straight across to the front seam which runs down from #e4 ,the piece under the arm is #a inch wide at top1 from #ad to #ae1 and #b inches from #d to #e2 this should be shaped somewhat like draft4 ,from ,l to ,i is one-sixth of the breast1 #c inches1 and the same down from ,l to ,t4 ,curve the neck2 from ,i to ,a draw a straight line1 and place the length of shoulder from #aj to ,v on the front from ,i to ,u2 shape the front of shoulder by dropping below line at ,u one-half inch1 and raise slightly above it at #ab4 ,finish drawing the arm-hole from ,u to ,h1 going out beyond the line ,h at #ac about one half inch4 ,draw from ,t1 at the front1 outside of ,j one-half inch1 thence to ,k at waist1 going inside of front line one-fourth inch at ,k and ,n to point ,p at bottom4 ,in the middle1 between ,j and ,h1 locate a point for the dart1 and in the centre1 between this and ,h1 fix another point for the back dart4 ,from ,k to #a1 across the waist1 measure the distance1 taking out #a inch between #b and #c1 which will be #af inches2 deduct the size of waist1 #ab inches1 from #af inches and the remainder1 #d inches1 is to be taken out in darts2 therefore1 put in two darts of #b inches each4 ,from ,k to #i is #b inches2 from #i to #h is one dart2 from #h to #g1 between the darts1 is three-fourths inch2 from #g to #f is another dart of #b inches4 ,about #b inches below the waist-line begin to draw the darts past #i1 #h1 #g and #f1 nearly straight down from waist-line4 ,from #ba curve lower seam to #ai1 #ah and ,n2 at ,n it is one-half inch below straight line4 ,make the lapel straight on its inside edge1 and #b inches at waist1 and #c inches at centre of breast1 in width1 and shape like ,figure4 ,to draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from #c to ,s against the side-body1 and draw a line to ,r1 then curve it about one-half inch more over the hips4 ,regulate the length by the back4 ,from ,s draw the upper edge of the skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at #ba1 thence to ,n2 from ,n forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down2 also put in two cuts on the hip1 of one-half inch each1 and the skirt will be right to fit the body4 ,should it1 on measuring1 be a little too wide1 take the extra width off in front2 whatever overlaps on the side-body will equalize the loss of the darts4 ,a flap can be put on over the hips4 ,an ordinary coat-collar will suit this jacket4 ,,fig4 #bh4 ,,traveling ,,ulster4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bh4 ,a ,spring and ,fall garment for traveling or outdoor wear is represented by this ,figure and is a reduced copy of the pattern of a #ch size breast1 and can be readily enlarged by simply using inches for the numbers marked upon it4 ,the draft is a close-fitting traveling paletot1 double-breasted1 and buttons down to the bottom1 and has a collar which turns over1 as represented by ,fig4 #e4 ,this collar should be well stretched with the hot iron1 at the lower edge1 before it is sewed on1 in order that it may cling around the neck nicely4 ,this way of making and sewing on a collar is far superior to the usual custom of dressmakers1 and is always adopted by tailors in making jackets or other ladies' garments4 ,the back has at its centre1 below the waist1 a lap1 which can be put in a box-pleat or lapped over like a coat1 and at the side it has a simple pleat4 ,the front has a large dart cut in one piece--that is1 like a sack coat1 having the skirt attached to the body--but the side-body is sewed in as cut1 in a separate piece4 ,over the hips pockets are put in covered with liberal flaps4 ,for use as a traveling garment it will be well to make it out of waterproof cloth1 but it makes a handsome street paletot when made out of diagonal cloth or melton4 ,,figs4 #bi ,,and #cj4 ,,newmarket4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #bi4 ,this style of ,newmarket has only one dart4 ,proceed to make a full size draft in accordance with the directions4 ,first draw a straight line ,o1 and mark off the number of inches down from ,o1 as given on the ,figure2 at these points draw lines across1 and on these lines mark the number of inches as given1 in like manner proceed to draw each part of the garment4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cj4 ,,fig4 #ca4 ,,riding-,,habit4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ca4 ,the demand and orders for these garments have1 so far1 been considerable in the leading houses1 and a few hints are always seasonable1 not only to those who make them for the highest fashionables1 but especially to those who are located in smaller towns and who are not often called upon to make this style of garment4 ,there are now many ladies who have a horse at their disposal1 and whose chief enjoyment is in equestrian exercise1 and it is quite necessary1 not only for the tailor but the dressmaker1 to know how a riding-habit should be cut and made4 ,at one time it was thought impossible for anyone but a tailor to make a stylish riding-habit1 but now many ladies have them made by their dressmakers4 ,illustration ,the first thing necessary is a good measure of the form1 by which a correct pattern must be cut1 as a well-setting1 comfortable riding-habit cannot be made without it4 ,the jacket has a few peculiarities3 ,there should be no seam down the middle of the back2 the front1 side-body and back are cut one inch below the natural waist4 ,the skirt and back form a pleat like the skirt-pleat of a coat4 ,the buttons should be small and round4 ,the sleeves are tightly buttoned up at wrist4 ,the inside of jacket should be lined with silk1 carefully wadded and stitched in close rows4 ,it should have a belt inside1 stitched to each seam at waist1 which is to close it tight to the form4 ,the ,figures we give show to advantage some of these peculiarities4 ,the draft is a good model of such a habit1 and is universally adopted1 being both suitable and elegant4 ,it 8looks quite ,english0 and very pretty4 ,a plain standing collar of white linen should be worn with it and a gentleman's cravat of black silk1 or if the jacket is made with the lapels turning down a flat scarf is more appropriate4 ,illustration ,we add to this an article published in 8,munster's ,gazette of ,fashion0 on riding-habits4 ,this will enable our readers to be more fully posted1 not only on what is worn here but what is in keeping with ,london styles3 8,we have devoted one of the plates issued with the current number of our publication to the representation of the newest and most fashionable style of a lady's riding-habit in wear4 ,the lengthening of the waist1 which we reported last year1 has been maintained1 although it has not been increased2 and the jacket-skirt is about the same in length4 ,it is fastened up to the throat by buttons and holes1 and with a small stand-collar rounded off at the front4 ,the jacket-skirt is cut in one piece instead of two1 as heretofore1 and at front runs off at an angle from the bottom of the front edge of the fore-part1 and is lined with cloth1 or interlined with some article of substance1 to give it a firmness4 ,the edges of the back skirts terminate in a point at the bottom4 ,a small square tab1 with two holes in it1 is sewn across under the bottom of the back1 and is fastened on to two buttons sewn on the top of the back part of train4 ,the edges are usually trimmed with a narrow silk braid1 sewn on flat1 and the body and the sleeves lined with light colored silk4 ,ball buttons and fancy silk buttons are generally used4 ,five or six buttons are sewn on at the hind-arm2 the two lower holes only are worked open4 ,some ladies affect a certain tone of severity in their riding-habits1 and eschewing all fictitious aids by way of adornment to the bodies have made them perfectly plain1 with the edges turned in and stitched1 and smoked pearl or vegetable ivory shank buttons4 ,veils are no longer considered correct1 no doubt because they may be considered too effeminate in character and out of place with the 8billy-cock0 hat4 ,the train1 as now worn1 is only cut a few inches longer than the walking length4 ,it is turned up at the bottom1 with a narrow hem only1 and the ,v's taken out at the seams are covered with ribbon4 ,colored habits are being worn in rich shades of brown1 olive and green--not too light4 ,blue and black are also worn4 ,the small diagonal elastic coating and ,venetian cloth are preferred on account of their making up so satisfactorily4 ,dress meltons and tweeds are also worn1 but the makes are not so appropriate4 ,one inevitable consequence of short and scanty trains is the necessity for every lady1 taking equestrian exercise1 to wear riding trousers4 ,they are usually made of the same cloth as the habit1 with a fly-front open to leg-seam1 or with a long opening at each side-seam and a button and button-hole in the centre1 and a narrow strap at bottom40 ,in order to produce ,figure #ca use inches for all numbers on the draft4 ,but in drafting it to measure use the same principle as laid down for waists1 and lengthen the skirt as on ,figure #g and draw the skirt like that on last ,figure4 ,,fig4 #cb4 ,,circular4 ,draw lines ,o-#e and ,o-,j4 ,from ,o to ,j is one-fourth of breast4 ,from ,o to ,h is one-third of breast4 ,lay the pattern of the back against ,h and #a inch inside of line at the waist4 ,lay also the pattern of the front against the shoulder of the back near ,f and touching front-line at ,j4 ,draw along the top of the back from ,h to #a1 and add to the pattern at #a1 for seams1 one-half inch4 ,draw from #a to ,f and from #b1 on the front shoulder1 to ,f4 ,from ,j1 along the front of the body-pattern1 draw a straight line to #d4 ,now from #a and #b draw a line and make a point in the centre at #c4 ,apply the length from ,h to #e for full length of what the garment should be1 and using point #c as a pivot sweep from #e to the front for the lower or bottom edge2 then square the bottom at #e1 and in front at #d1 as shown in the ,figure4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cb4 ,if a seam is wanted draw a line through the centre from ,f and take out about #c inches at bottom1 starting from #f to #g and #f to #h4 ,for a close back1 curve from ,h along the back to #a and thence to #e at bottom4 ,,figs4 #cc ,,and #cd4 ,,russian ,,circular4 ,in making a pattern of this garment we first draw a line on the edge of paper and make a point on the right end1 as ,o4 ,from ,o down place three-fourths of an inch4 ,from ,o to ,i is one-half of breast measure1 or #i inches1 for a #cf size4 ,between ,o and ,i is ,j4 ,h and ,i are at right angles with first back-line4 ,from ,i over on the line place one-third of breast1 equal to #f inches1 and add #a inch1 making in all #g inches1 and draw a line up to #e4 ,next1 from ,o on top line place #b or #b inches and curve from to #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cc4 ,measure down from to ,d1 the length of waist1 say #ae inches1 and the whole length to ,r4 ,go in from straight line at ,d #a inch and curve the right back-seam from to #a and ,r4 ,make the back1 at waist1 #d inches wide and curve from #e through waist at #aa to #ab at bottom4 ,the run of this line should be nearly straight past ,v and curving at #aa1 and should also be wider at bottom1 about #a inch more than from ,d to #aa4 ,from #b draw a line raising it one-half inch at #e4 ,for the front 7,figure #cd7 draw a straight line from ,o to ,j4 ,from ,o down to a is one-eighth of breast1 equal to #b inches4 ,from ,o to ,b is one-sixth of breast1 or #c inches4 ,from ,o to ,k is one-fourth of breast1 or #i inches4 ,square lines across at all these points4 ,from ,o to ,a1 the neck1 is one-sixth of breast4 ,lay the back on to the point ,a and extreme shoulder resting on the line at ,c4 ,now draw along the back shoulder while it is in this position1 and also curve from ,c to #ab1 which should only be #d inches below ,c4 ,from ,k go out to ,h one-quarter of the breast1 less #a inch1 equal to #h inches4 ,having established this we can curve the shoulder easier1 as seen by dotted lines4 ,measure from ,k over on the line one-half of breast1 equal to #ah inches1 and one-third of breast1 or #f inches1 added4 ,now lay the back-line against this last point in such a way that point #e of the back will rest on line ,a-#ac1 and so that it will be placed as seen in ,figure #ce4 ,then carefully measure to see if the distance from ,k-,h and to the back-line will be exactly one-halt and one-third of breast1 or #bg inches4 ,then curve from #ab to #ac to #ad down the back and reducing it at the bottom about #d inches from the position as it would be when the back is laid as stated4 ,now by the length of the back regulate that of the front1 and then sweep by the point of shoulder ,a from #aj to ,j4 ,this latter point1 and part of this round1 as produced by the sweep1 should be shortened about #a inch4 ,curve the neck from ,a to ,b1 and add #a inch all along the front for a turn-in hem4 ,from where the back lies against the wing1 at ,o1 draw the curve to #ac on the top of sleeve head4 ,the upper part of the sleeve-head should be gathered-in considerable1 and at ,o a notch should be placed to facilitate the sewing in1 for notch should be sewn on notch4 7,see ,figure #ce47 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cd4 ,,fig4 #ce4 ,,closed ,,circular4 ,after this has been drawn the same as the ,russian circular1 lay it against the front and cut without a seam from ,o down to the bottom4 ,for this shape1 after the shoulders are seamed up1 gather in the round of sleeve from ,o forward4 ,the same can be cut like the circular2 also cut off in front from top1 past ,v1 to the bottom1 in a straight line down from ,b4 ,this makes a wrap with a back wing and a front4 ,when cut in this manner an opening can be left for the hands to go through1 as shown on the ,figure1 below ,e4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ce4 ,a short cape1 such as have been worn for some time in ,europe1 and are just making their appearance here1 is cut like this1 reaching1 however1 only to the waist4 ,this same wrap can be cut from a dolman pattern by laying the sleeve of a dolman on to front so that the front notches come together and the two patterns close together some distance above1 or till within #d or #e inches of the top of the shoulder1 then draw along sleeve-top past the back of the sleeve4 ,if a line is drawn through the shoulder-point1 next to the sleeve1 at right angles with the front1 and the back shoulder-point laid on this line and closing against the sleeve at blade1 it will represent exactly this circular cape1 and will be one of the easiest ways to make it4 ,the ,figure shows the outline of the dolman sleeve by the dotted line from ,e forward1 as it appears when lying in position4 ,these several wraps can be made of silk1 and fur-lined1 or they may be of brocade1 velvet1 or seal1 and are handsome in shape and outline when correctly cut4 ,as they are so different from the old circular they will be much sought after1 because of the newness of design and that the sleeve can be raised on the shoulder to harmonize with the increased prevalence of gathered and high style of sleeve-heads4 ,illustration ,illustration ,,figs4 #cf1 #cg1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj4 ,,dolman4 ,draw a line ,o-,h2 from ,o1 down1 mark three-fourths of an inch4 ,from ,o draw a short line over to #c1 and make it #b inches4 ,from ,o down to ,b is one-fourth of breast1 equal to #i inches on a #cf breast4 ,point ,f is in the centre1 between ,o and ,b2 from to ,d is the length of the waist1 and to ,h the full length of garment4 ,draw lines across at ,f1 ,b and ,d4 ,between ,f and ,b1 directly in the centre1 make a mark ,c1 and draw a line across4 ,go in at the waist #a inch from line at ,d2 draw line from to #a for the centre of back1 and curve below ,d to ,h4 ,from #a1 at waist1 measure in to #d #c inches to #d inches4 ,on line ,c make the width of back one-third of breast and one inch and draw a line up4 ,on the top of shoulder draw a line from #c to #ad1 and raise it one-half inch above #ad2 commencing there1 exactly at the crossing of the lines1 begin to curve past #af and #d to #a at bottom4 ,having finished the back1 first make a line across in the middle1 between and ,f1 from ,e over2 next lay a sleeve pattern1 of regular size1 on #ae as when sewn in the arm-hole2 holding it at #ae1 swing it down till the upper part of the sleeve-head rests about one-half inch below line ,e1 at #ac1 and when in this position draw along the round of the sleeve1 which will give exactly the round as shown on the ,figure from #ae1 past #ac1 to #b4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cf4 ,next1 placing the width over from ,b on the back line1 measure to #aj1 #bd inches1 and curve the sleeve from #b to #aj1 running below the line #b inches4 ,point ,g is about #ab inches below the waist1 and from this place #a inch more than one-quarter of the hips to #h1 and draw from #f1 which is one-quarter of hip from ,d1 a line through #h to #i2 then finish the curve at bottom1 and shape the round of front of sleeve to any desired shape4 ,the front is constructed by drawing a line from ,o down the front edge or centre of front4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #cg4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ch4 ,from ,o over to shoulder point is one-sixth breast1 the same down to #c2 also go down one-eighth breast and draw a line across2 curve the neck from to #c1 and apply the same width of shoulder as the back on the front1 to #aj4 ,from ,o down is one-half breast to ,e1 there draw a line over to #h and make last point1 from ,e1 one-fourth breast less #a inch4 ,measure the distance on the back1 from ,b to ,h1 and place it from ,e to ,p1 then sweep the bottom of the front by the shoulder-point1 which gives line ,p to ,k4 ,make the distance over from ,h to ,j one-quarter of the hips1 and #a to #a1 inch more2 draw a line from ,k through ,j to ,l4 ,next measure the back from #f to #i and place the same from ,k up to ,l2 curve arm-hole from #aj through #h to ,l4 ,add #c inches for a lap of double-breasted style2 mark and space the buttons4 ,illustration ,the under-sleeve is cut like the upper part from #b to #aj and #aa1 like the outside curve4 ,the inside curve from #b to #g is short1 just as much as is needed to sew in the front--to find how much this should be we make a notch opposite #ad and one at #b1 which is about #aj inches from #ad4 ,this measure1 less #a inch1 is marked from #aj to #af1 and at that point make another notch4 ,what is left from #af to ,l must be placed from #b to #g1 and this curve should be like curve on front4 ,lastly1 draw a line from #g to the star1 which finishes the whole garment4 ,in order to draft a dolman pattern which will fit well and hang with a good balance the same manner of drafting as that which produces a good shaped sack should be used1 then the balance and hang of the garment will be equally as good as in a tight-fitting sack1 and a dolman can then be cut as close as a sack1 if so desired4 ,the manner of drafting the back1 side-body and front1 are1 in fact1 just like a sack1 the main difference being in the shape of the sleeve4 ,the sleeve1 even in the upper part1 must be like an ordinary coat-sleeve1 while the lower part may be any of the various shapes in fashion4 ,in drafting make a line to start on from ,o to ,f 7,figure #cg72 from ,o down is three-fourths inch1 and from ,o over to top line is #b inches to #a4 ,from ,o to ,b is one-fourth of breast1 #i inches of a #cf size4 ,point ,d is in the middle1 between ,o and ,b1 and point #f is in the middle1 between ,o and ,d4 ,from 1 which is the top of the back1 measure down to ,c #ae inches1 and to ,f #dj inches1 the full length4 ,point ,e is #f inches1 or one-third of breast1 below the waist-line at ,c4 ,at all these points draw lines across4 ,from ,b to ,h is one-third and #a inch1 equal1 on #cf breast1 to #g inches2 draw a line up to ,j2 in the middle1 between ,i1 the point where the two lines cross and ,h1 mark point ,k4 ,at the waist-line go in from straight line ,c to #c one and one-half inches1 then draw line down from to #c and from #c to ,f4 ,also draw a straight line at right angles with waist-line from #c to #f at bottom4 ,make the width at waist1 from #c to #d1 about #c inches1 and draw also a line down to #g4 ,now curve back-seam1 as shown1 and whatever amount there is from #f to ,f place from #g to #h1 and curve from #d past #e to #h4 ,draw a line from ,i to #a1 raise above ,i to ,j three-fourths inch1 and curve the shoulder4 ,starting from ,j up upright line1 curve back seam to #d and #h2 also mark a dim line from ,j past ,i1 ,k to ,g1 just like in a sack back--the dotted line shows that4 ,point ,g is one-fourth of breast1 or #i inches1 from ,b4 ,notice that the curve on the back1 from ,c to #c1 is a trifle outside of the straight line1 and that below #c it runs a shade inside to give an appearance of a long waist1 and below ,e it curves outside again to ,f4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ci4 ,the inside seam from ,j past breast-line should be very nearly straight1 and begin to curve only near the waist1 and from #e down it must have the same curve as outside line below point ,e to ,f4 ,now have a sleeve cut for a #cf size and lay this on to ,k1 as shown1 so that the sleeve-head rests against the line from ,k to ,i2 then in the centre1 between ,i and ,k1 find point #b and stick a pin4 ,now turn to ,figure #ch3 ,in the middle1 between line ,a and ,d1 draw line ,e2 keeping it pinned at #b1 move the lower part of the sleeve towards the back till the top of the sleeve-head just touches line ,e at #aj4 ,while it lays thus draw along the top from #b to #aj and #i1 also down from #i1 in front of sleeve pattern1 to line ,b4 ,this gives the outline of the sleeve1 but we modify it by drawing a corrected line from #aj1 inside of point #i of sleeve1 down to #ab4 ,illustration ,figure #ci gives the balance of the sleeve4 ,first draw a line in the centre1 between lines ,b and ,c1 which places line ,d4 ,then take out the pin which was placed in the sleeve at point #b1 and without moving the sleeve stick a pin at point ,u2 this point is found two-thirds of the width of the sleeve forward4 ,when this is done take hold of the sleeve at its lower point and move it upwards1 till point ,t of sleeve rests on line ,d at ,n1 and then curve from #af to ,n4 ,to produce this curve just right take the distance from line ,b at #ah to line ,d at #ag1 and place the same from #ag to #ai1 and draw a straight line from #ai to #ah1 then curve line from #af1 resting on line at #bj1 thence to ,n4 ,from ,n curve form of sleeve to #ba and #ae1 and to #ac for one style of sleeve1 or from ,u to #ba and #ad for another style4 ,go in from #d to #e three-quarters of an inch2 curve from #aj1 past #b1 touching the back1 and along it past line ,b1 and thence separate from the back to #e and #ad--this last line must touch at point #ac on the straight line which was drawn down from point #d on ,fig4 #cg and is marked #e on the same4 ,,the ,,front--,,fig4 #dj4 ,lay the back down on paper and extend all the lines across1 line ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d and bottom line4 ,measure from ,z to ,a on line ,b1 one-half of breast1 or #ah inches2 from ,b to ,h is one-third of breast and #a inch2 ,h to ,p is one-fourth of breast1 equal to #d inches4 ,draw a line up at ,p1 and one up and down at ,a4 ,mark line ,a also4 ,from ,k to ,l is one-sixth of breast1 equal to #c inches1 and ,k to #g is the same1 #c inches2 curve neck4 ,draw a line from ,l to ,d and place the width of the top of shoulder on the back from ,l to #h1 and curve from #h upwards above the line one-fourth inch2 draw from #h down in front of line ,p to #i4 ,this will be three-fourths inch in front of line ,p4 ,let this curve of the arm-hole extend below line ,b1 or nearly down to midway between lines ,b and ,c1 and curve to #f4 ,from #f draw down to #e1 which is three-fourths inch from #d to #ae and #ag2 at the last point it should be about #a inch over the straight line drawn down from #d on the back4 ,from point ,g1 which1 as before stated1 is one-fourth of the breast-measure1 #i inches from ,b1 draw a straight line down4 ,curve from ,g to #ab1 #ac and #ah2 the last point is #b inches from ,t2 also curve from ,g to #ab1 #ad and #ai4 ,point #ai is the same distance from ,t as #ah4 ,draw bottom line from #ai to #cj at front1 where curve three-fourths inch below the line4 ,add in front over ,f line1 for double-breasted #c inches1 and for single-breasted #a inches4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #dj4 ,now we have only to show how the under-sleeve is produced4 ,this is done by measuring first the sleeve-head from ,o1 where point ,j of the back is sewn on1 to #af1 which point is in middle1 between #i and #ah4 ,this will measure #aj inches2 as we put in #a inch of fullness in the sleeve-head it leaves us only #i inches1 which is measured down the front from #h to #aj and notched4 ,lay sleeve notch1 marked #af1 on to notch on the fore-part #aj1 hold it there with a pin1 move it till line on sleeve1 marked ,c1 will lay parallel with any of the lines1 as ,c or ,b on fore-part4 ,then mark on the fore-part along the sleeve1 from notch at #aj to ,n of sleeve1 and from ,n to #ba2 the sleeve will now be marked on the fore-part line #aj to ,o1 ,p and ,a1 and will be cut the same shape as the arm-hole from #aj to ,a1 and can be traced off on another sheet of paper4 ,the principle as given in this article is suitable1 and the only thing necessary1 to produce any style of dolman4 ,the change necessary for the short or long pointed sleeve1 or for any shape of arm-wing1 does not alter the principle4 ,pleated backs1 or very much fullness in the top of the sleeve1 must be met by putting enough extra goods in to meet the amount required for pleats or fullness4 ,when a regular pattern is cut addition is made where pleats are wanted4 ,when more fullness is wanted in the sleeve the easiest and most correct plan is to cut the sleeve in two1 from the highest part of the sleeve-head1 and opened as far as required1 about #a or #b inches1 and a little more round put on the top4 ,the principle1 as shown in this book1 will produce for every style of garment a correct fit1 and yet it may be urged upon all using it1 that in order to produce new styles1 or garments of such styles that contain pleats or ornaments laid on the cloth1 the reader's own judgment must necessarily help to carry him through4 ,in conclusion1 let me say--that any point or measuring that does not seem clear1 by addressing me ,i will always be ready to enlighten to the best of my ability4 ,illustration