,,fir/ ,,lessons ,,9 ,,batik ,illu/ration3 ,a ,,batik ,,wall ,,hang+4 ,,by ,,anna ,,tyrell4 ,,art ,,in/itute ,,( ,,*icago ,by ! ,c\rtesy ( ,mrs4 ,c>ol9e ,kohl ,,fir/ ,,lessons ,,9 ,,batik ,a ,,h&book ,,9 ,,batik1 ,,tie-,,dye+ ,,& ,,all ,,patt]n ,,dye+ ,by ,,g]trude ,,clayton ,,lewis ,in/ructor 9 ,art1 ,l9dblom ,high ,s*ool1 ,*icago ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,motif ,,! ,,prang ,,company #aibb ,calumet ,av5ue1 ,*icago #cj ,irv+ ,place1 ,new ,york ,copyright1 #aiba ,by ,,! ,,prang ,,company ,,! ,,preface ,! gr[+ int]e/ 9 8,batik0 leads ! au?or to believe t ?is ,h&book1 describ+ ! v>i\s processes & illu/rat+ a numb] ( def9ite problems1 w meet ! ne$ ( _m arti/s1 tea*]s1 & craft work]s :o wi% to try _! h& at ?is new & fasc9at+ ori5tal art4 ,! book does n attempt to pres5t a hi/orical or critical /udy ( 8,batik10 b to give detail$ directions = do+ ! "w "u ,am]ican conditions4 8,batik0 pres5ts _m new & int]e/+ problems = art work]s :o h we>i$ ( *9a pa9t+1 metal "w1 embroid]y1 etc4 ,x n only p]mits ! work] to produce exquisite g[ns1 sc>fs1 table cov]s1 bags1 curta9s1 & _m o!r articles t w express h] own individuality1 & be exactly suit$ to ! color s*eme & design ( _! surr\nd+s1 b x also w enable ! work] to produce articles ( comm]cial value :i* are readily salable4 ,z ! beauty & value ( 8,batik0 dep5ds almo/ :olly ^u ! p]sonal t\* & arti/ic ta/e ( ! work] :o produces x1 !re is little likelihood ( its be+ comm]cializ$ or produc$ by me*anical processes4 ,?is promises to keep x an individual craft4 ,:ile 8,batik0 (f]s l>ge opportunities = home work]s1 x also pres5ts an int]e/+ field = indu/rial art problems = /ud5ts 9 art s*ools1 high s*ools1 normal s*ools1 & colleges4 ,_m progressive art tea*]s are (f]+ c\rses 9 8,dyes & ,dye+0 9 connection ) _! sci5tific /udy ( 8,color10 & relat+ !m also to ! "w 9 8,co/ume ,design10 8,int]ior ,decoration10 & 8,dome/ic ,art40 8,bateeko ,p[d] ,dyes0 are recomm5d$ = ,batik "w4 ,^! dyes c be prep>$ & kept 9 bottles 9 /rong solution1 ready = imm$iate use4 ,x is n necess>y to boil ! goods 9 ! dyes1 z !y "w successfully 9 tepid wat] & )\t con/ant /irr+4 ,^! dyes are recomm5d$ z unusually beautiful & brilliant1 yet s(t 9 tone4 ,mr4 ,alb]t ,buell ,lewis1 ,assi/ant ,curator ( ! ,dep>tm5t ( ,an?ropology 9 ! ,field ,museum1 ,*icago1 has furni%$ int]e/+ hi/orical data & suppli$ a numb] ( illu/rations f 8 private collection ( 8,batiks40 ,photographs h be5 k9dly loan$ by ! foll[+3 ,! ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago2 ,pr(essor ,alb]t ,w4 ,heckman ( ,tea*]s ,college1 ,columbia ,univ]sity2 ! 8,k]amic ,/udio20 ! 8,indu/rial ,arts ,magaz9e20 ,mrs4 ,hel5 ,re$ ( ,new ,york ,city2 ,mrs4 ,c>ol9e ,kohl2 ,miss ,amy ,swi%] ( ,miami ,univ]sity1 ,ox=d1 ,ohio2 ,lieut5ant ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ( ! ,u4 ,s4 ,g5]al ,hospital1 ,=t ,mc,henry1 ,ind42 ,miss ,rose ,buhlig ( ! ,l9dblom ,high ,s*ool1 ,*icago2 ,miss ,anna ,tyrell4 ,! publi%]s are "u special obligation to ,miss ,m>y ,c4 ,scovel1 ,head ( ! ,normal ,dep>tm5t ( ! ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago1 :o prep>$ ! outl9e & fir/ draft ( ?is book1 & gave _m practical sugge/ions4 ,!y w\ld be glad to receive sugge/ions or int]e/+ photographs ( 8,batik0 suitable = use 9 connection ) future editions ( ?is book4 ,! ,table ( ,cont5ts ,,page ,! ,preface #e ,*apt] ,i4 ,! ,hi/ory ( ,batik #g ,*apt] ,,ii4 ,! ,me?od 9 ,java #aj ,*apt] ,,iii4 ,! ,possibilities ( ,batik #bj ,*apt] ,,iv4 ,processes ( ,batik ,dye+ #cf ,*apt] ,v4 ,crackle 9 ,batik #dd ,*apt] ,,vi4 ,color & ,h[ to ,use ,x #ej ,*apt] ,,vii4 8,ti$ & ,dy$0 ,"w #fj ,*apt] ,,viii4 ,dye+ ,sugge/ions #gd ,illu/ration3 8,,! ,,ca/le10 ,a ,,batik ,,wall ,,hang+4 ,,by ,,w9old ,,reiss ,by c\rtesy ( ! ,academy ,art ,%op1 ,new ,york ,copyright1 #aibj1 by ! 8,k]amic ,/udio10 ,syracuse1 ,n4 ,y4 ,,fir/ ,,lessons ,,9 ,,batik ,,*apt] ,i ,,! ,,hi/ory ,,( ,,batik ,! ^w 8,batik0 is ,javanese1 & means to pa9t or draw or design ) wax on textiles s t :5 plac$ 9 ! dye ! wax prev5ts ! "p cov]$ f tak+ ! color4 ,! wax is !n remov$ by hot wat] or gasol9e1 leav+ ! p>ts ?us cov]$ ( ! orig9al color4 ,f e>ly times & 9 _m places designs h be5 made 9 ?is mann] on v>i\s k9ds ( objects1 b ! process rea*$ its highe/ developm5t 9 its application to wov5 fabrics4 ,wax seems to h be5 us$ 9 ?is mann] 9 s\!rn ,india & probably 9 "s o!r p>ts ( s\!a/]n ,asia = c5turies4 ,e>ly ,buddhi/ic books ( ! n9? or t5? c5tury ref] to a wax pa9t+ process1 & !re are pres]v$ 9 ,japan anci5t ,indian clo?s :i* h be5 color$ 9 ?is mann]4 ,?is process ( wax pa9t+1 h[ev]1 rea*$ its highe/ developm5t 9 ,java1 :]e x 0 probably introduc$ ab\t ! twelf? c5tury4 ,! e>lie/ writt5 record we h /ates t 9 #aeah1 !re 0 a fl\ri%+ indu/ry ( ?is sort at ,*]ibon1 ,java1 :i* %[$ c]ta9 rem>kable resemblances to ! processes employ$ on ! ,corom&el coa/ ( s\!rn ,india4 ,! "w 0 done by m51 & plant & animal motives 7 l>gely us$ 9 ! designs4 ,at t "t1 t portion ( ! isl& _h n yet be5 ,mohamm$aniz$1 z we see by ! designs us$4 ,aft] ,mohamm$anism spread ov] ! isl&1 ! indu/ry develop$ rapidly1 & _m new & orig9al patt]ns 7 add$ to ^? =m]ly us$4 ,! highe/ developm5t 0 9 c5tral ,java1 :]e 8,batik0 fl\ri%$ especially dur+ ! sev5te5? & eighte5? c5turies4 ,"h ! "w 0 c>ri$ on by wom51 especially by ^? ( ! leisure class1 :o c\ld give ! "t & c>e necess>y to ! production ( ! f9e/ "w4 ,"s designs 7 s elaborate & difficult t only ! nobility c\ld af=d !m & a few designs 7 res]v$ = ! use ( royalty4 ,9 ^! designs1 indigoes or br[ns are ! pr$om9at+ colors4 ,! fir/ detail$ acc\nt ( ,batik mak+ 0 by ,raffles 9 #ahag4 ,at t "t ! 8tjant+10 an in/rum5t :i* w be expla9$ lat]1 0 9 univ]sal use4 ,h[ long x _h be5 us$ & :5 x sup]s$$ ! bru%1 :i* 0 d\btless us$ e>li]1 z x 0 9 ,india1 is n kn[n4 ,ab\t #ahfj1 a new process 0 introduc$ by means ( :i* ! wax 0 transf]r$ to ! clo? by a metal /amp dipp$ 9 ! melt$ wax & !n press$ on ! clo?4 ,?is /amp+ process is kn[n z 8tjap0 & is done by m51 :ile 9 ,batik "w ! design+ & pa9t+ are always done by wom54 ,x is d\btless an adaptation ( ! color pr9t+ process ( ,india to ! wax process4 ,9 "s cases aft] /amp+1 ! opposite side is ,batik$1 b ?is is n common4 ,^! tjap clo?s are1 ( c\rse1 mu* *eap] ?an true ,batiks4 ,! designs us$ 9 ,javanese ,batik "w %[ mu* v>iation 9 diff]5t p>ts ( ! isl&1 & c]ta9 designs are *>act]i/ic ( p>ticul> regions4 ,! motives are ( v>i\s orig9s4 ,"s are old weav+ patt]ns1 or adapt$ f basket or plait$ designs4 ,"s are evid5tly ( ,indian orig91 simil> to ^? on ! cotton pr9ts ( s\!rn ,india4 ,x is int]e/+ to f9d ! same designs on "s ( ! old ,buddhi/ic sculptures t are f\nd on c]ta9 ,batik pieces4 ,o!r designs are ( ,*9ese orig91 & rec5tly mod]n ,european designs are be+ adopt$4 ,mo/ ( ! designs1 h[ev]1 are ei!r modifications ( ! old ,indian plant & fl[] motives or geometric figures develop$ by ! ,javanese !mselves4 ,! ,javanese wom5 employ ! 8,batik0 process l>gely = ! decorations ( textiles us$ 9 _! p]sonal co/ume4 ,?is co/ume is simple1 consi/+ ( an oblong piece ( clo? ab\t ?ree to f\r & "o-half y>ds long by =ty-two in*es wide1 g5]ally call$ a 8s>ong40 ,x is worn wrapp$ ar\nd ! wai/ & tuck$ 9 ! belt4 ,?is co/ume is worn by bo? m5 & wom54 ,a cotton sc>f1 g5]ally ab\t ?ree y>ds long by eighte5 in*es1 is also worn1 & is us$ by ! wom5 z a 8c>ry-all40 ,silk is occasionally us$ by ! nobility = sc>fs4 ,! turban is made ( a squ>e piece ( clo? twi/$ ar\nd ! head 9 a diff]5t fa%ion 9 ea* di/rict4 ,ea* di/rict has its own *>act]i/ic color s*emes4 ,djokjak>ta & ,surak>ta1 :i* are semi-indep5d5t pr9cipalities 9 ! int]ior1 d ! f9e/ "w & use l>gely indigo & soga-br[n dyes1 :i* give a range ( color f cream ?r\gh ! yell[ br[ns & blues to a v d>k color1 practically black1 made by dye+ /rong blue ov] a /rong br[n4 ,9 c]ta9 places on ! nor? coa/ ( ,java1 notably ,pekalongan & ,sam>ang1 mu* gay] colors1 su* z r$1 blue1 gre51 etc41 are us$1 & floral designs are common4 ,prices 9 ,java v>y f "o to twelve doll>s1 & ev5 z mu* z tw5ty-five doll>s may be paid = a v f9e piece4 ,two to f\r doll>s w buy an excell5t turban squ>e4 ,illu/ration3 ,motifs f ,javanese ,batik 9 ! ,field ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory ,illu/ration3 ,designs f 8tjap0 /amps us$ 9 ,java = repeat+ units4 ,! ,field ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ( ,*icago1 has a collection ( ^! ,,*apt] ,,ii ,,! ,,me?od ,,9 ,,java ,! "w ( ,batik mak+ is def9itely divid$1 9 ,java1 betwe5 ! m5 & ! wom54 ,! wom5 d ! design+ & wax+1 :ile ! m5 d ! dye+4 ,9 ,java1 9 ! e>li] days1 ,batik 0 l>gely a home indu/ry1 b l all su* x is be+ tak5 out ( ! home & transf]r$ to primitive factories1 :]e ! work]s come toge!r to "w1 b cont9ue ! old me?ods & te*nique4 ,ev5 9 t f>-(f l&1 ma*9e imitations ( ,batik are flood+ ! c\ntry1 & x is difficult today to be sure t a giv5 piece is a g5u9e example ( ! h& process1 unless ! individual hi/ory ( ! piece is kn[n1 s9ce ! old designs are /ill us$1 & ! native "w is imitat$ 9 ! pr9t$ clo?s ev5 to ! crackle & irregul>ity ( ! designs4 ,9 =m] times !y wove _! own clo?1 b n[ ! clo? us$ is l>gely musl9 wov5 9 ,engl& or ,japan4 ,sev]al qualities are us$ = diff]5t grades ( "w4 ,practically all ,batik "w is done on musl91 ?\gh occasionally a silk sc>f may be color$ 9 ?is way4 ,! clo? is prep>$ be=e us+1 fir/1 by ?or\gh wa%+ to remove all />* & fill+2 second1 by soak+ x 9 cocoanut oil1 & ?ird1 remov+ ! oil ) a%es4 ,?is removes ! dead-:ite look & gives ! creamy color ) :i* we are famili> 9 ,batik pieces4 ,next1 ! clo? is />*$ ) a rice />* made by boil+ rice 9 wat] until x is a ?9 pa/e4 ,! clo? is !n dri$ & roll$ up4 ,9 a primitive fa%ion1 x is !n s(t5$ or iron$ by p\nd+ ) a wood5 pe/le until x is smoo?4 ,! clo? is n[ ready4 ,! wax us$ is a mixture ( ros91 animal fat & beeswax4 ,! proportion ( ea* has be5 work$ out by long exp]i5ce4 ,a little iron pan or /one j> holds ! melt$ wax4 ,! tjant+1 :i* is ! *>act]i/ic tool ( ,batik "w1 is us$ to apply ! wax4 ,?is is a little oval cup made ( v ?9 copp] ) a sl5d] curv$ sp\t project+ f ! base ( ! cup4 ,= a h&le1 a %ort piece ( re$ ) a s(t pi? is us$4 ,tjant+s v>y 9 ! size & numb] ( sp\ts4 ,a tjant+ ) a f9e sl5d] sp\t is us$ = v n>r[ l9es & small dots4 ,!n comes a s]ies ( o!rs1 ea* ) a little l>g] sp\t = ! purpose ( cov]+ m surface4 ,"o k9d is made ) two sp\ts & is us$ to draw p>allel l9es4 ,o!rs h f ?ree to six sp\ts to give ! little gr\ps ( dots :i* are q an ess5tial "p ( "s designs4 7,see page #ac47 ,! rema9d] ( ! equipm5t consi/s ( a wad ( cotton ti$ to a /ick1 a cocoanut-%ell spoon1 a copp] bas9 = boil+ out ! wax1 a light upright frame = hold+ ! clo? :ile x is be+ work$1 a /raight$ge ( wood1 & assort$ bas9s & vats = dyes & dye+4 ,^! are ( copp]1 pott]y or wood4 ,aft] dye+1 ! color is set1 wax is boil$ out & sav$ to be us$ aga94 ,x is n[ wax$ a second "t = ! next color1 dy$ & wa%$4 ,?is process is repeat$ = ea* color desir$4 ,illu/ration3 ,m tjap /amps giv+ ,javanese ,batik designs1 f ! ,field ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,*icago ,! use ( ! tjant+ is ! ideal me?od ( mak+ long ev5 l9es & = outl9+ l>ge spaces4 ,up to ! pres5t x has be5 difficult to secure tjant+s 9 ,am]ica1 b !y w und\bt$ly soon be available1 s9ce ,batik has firmly e/abli%$ itself z a beautiful & practical art-craft = ,am]ican work]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,! design = ?is ,batik ,tray 0 done 9 wax & ! silk !n dipp$ 9 an all-ov] dye ,illu/ration3 ,%[+ design = a ,batik ,bag ) crackle ,illu/ration3 ,detail draw+s ( units tak5 f ,batiks 9 ! possession ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,illu/ration3 ,! native ,javanese ,tjant+s1 %[+ two sizes ( s+le sp\ts & "o ) d\ble sp\ts ,illu/ration3 ,mod]n ,tjant+s1 made by ,r4 ,h4 ,e>l1 ,new ,york ,city ,illu/ration3 ,%[+ ! use ( ! ,tjant+4 ,c\rtesy ( ,r4 ,h4 ,e>l1 ,new ,york ,city ,illu/ration3 ,a detail ( a r>e ,javanese ,batik 9 ! ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,detail ( a ,javanese ,s>ong4 ,prop]ty ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,"s means ( keep+ ! wax hot mu/ be produc$4 ,any?+ t w hold ! wax at an ev5 temp]ature w d1 an electric /ove1 gas burn]1 or alcohol burn]4 ,a b[l ( wax may be set 9 ! top ( a tea-kettle ( boil+ wat] & w rema9 hot en\gh to use = half an h\r )\t reheat+ ! wat]4 ,all dang] ( burn+ ! wax is elim9at$ by keep+ ! wax 9 a b[l set 9 a pan ( wat]4 ,if ! wat] is kept j bel[ ! boil+ po9t1 t w give suffici5t heat4 ,9 cov]+ a l>ge space1 x is sometimes bett] to beg9 wax+ 9 ! c5t] & work+ outw>d t[>d ! edge4 ,:5 ! woman is ready to />t h] "w1 %e sket*es 9 ! ma9 outl9es & m complicat$ p>ts ( ! design ) *>coal2 !n %e hangs ! clo? ov] ! little upright frame & sits d[n on a little mat be=e h] "w4 ,%e fills h] tjant+ ) hot wax by means ( ! cocoanut-%ell spoon1 &1 hold+ ! clo? 9 h] left h&1 draws ! design 9 ) ! tjant+ by re/+ ! tjant+ lightly on ! clo? or mov+ x g5tly ar\nd ! outl9e4 ,! small p>ts ( ! design are g5]ally done )\t fir/ draw+ ! design 9 *>coal4 ,! cotton swab is us$ z a bru% to wax ! l>g] places4 ,! m we /udy ! designs ( ! ,javanese ! m we realize ! influ5ce ( _! tools4 ,! dots on leaves & fl[]s1 ! use ( ! light outl9e1 ! k9d ( l9e1 ! beautiful l9e designs us$--all h be5 work$ out ) ?is *>act]i/ic tool & 9 c]ta9 ways are sugge/$ by x4 ,aft] "o side ( ! clo? is wax$1 a good piece w be turn$ ov] & ! design v c>efully foll[$ on ! back4 ,9 do+ ?is !re are g5]ally small diff]5ces 9 design betwe5 ! back & front1 :i* give "o a means ( det]m9+ :e!r a piece is real ,batik or a pr9t4 ,aft] wax+ all p>ts ( ! design n to be dy$ ) ! fir/ color1 ! piece ( goods is ready to be dy$4 ,?is "w is done by m54 ,! dye is1 ( c\rse1 us$ cold1 & to r5d] x p]man5t ! clo? mu/ be left 9 ! dye = sev]al days2 9 ! case ( indigo (t5 z long z two weeks4 ,:5 remov$ f ! dye ! clo? is fir/ hung out 9 ! air until ! color is oxidiz$ or 8fix$40 ,! wax is !n remov$ by /eep+ 9 hot wat] & is sav$ = use aga94 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,batik ,mural ,decoration by ,fall ,illu/ration3 ,a decorative ,wall ,hang+ ( mod]n ,batik ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,batik ,turban4 ,prop]ty ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,illu/ration3 ,a corn] ( a ,javanese ,batik ,turban4 ,prop]ty ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,,*apt] ,,iii ,,! ,,possibilities ,,( ,,batik ,at ?is "t ( indu/rial & arti/ic developm5t ,batik dye+ comes to (f] a new field = ! ,arts & ,crafts work]4 ,today ! woman ( leisure1 z well z ! arti/1 wi%es h] individuality to be %[n 9 bo? ! furni%+s ( h] home & 9 h] own p]sonal belong+s4 ,batik "w helps to supply bo? ^! ne$s4 ,9 ! fir/ wave ( en?usiasm ov] ?is "w1 x seem$ z ?\gh ! ne$ ( beautiful =m z well z beautiful color 0 lo/ sight (4 ,beautiful color c h>dly be avoid$ ) good dyes4 ,! fasc9ation ( ! color & ! dye is su* t ! ne$ ( beautiful %apes 0 some:at =gott5 at fir/1 & !re 0 a t5d5cy to spla% on a design )\t mu* reg>d to beauty ( %ape or ( l9e & to dep5d ^u ! color to make x attractive4 ,! wond]ful possibilities inh]5t 9 ! process 7 ! only ?+s t sav$ x 9 ?is /age f ! fate ( /5cil+1 etc4 ,batik w rank ) ! art processes t are always beautiful & 9 use if ! requirem5ts m5tion$ above are adh]$ to4 ,"o ( ! *ief requirem5ts = success 9 ?is craft is a will+ness to take "t = c>eful & exact "w4 ,a successful piece ( ,batik mu/ be c>efully execut$ to be ( any p]man5t value4 ,good craftsman%ip is z ess5tial 9 ?is z x is 9 mak+ a good piece ( embroid]y or pa9t+4 ,! pres5t ,am]ican me?od ( ,batik dye+ has v>i$ some:at f ! old ,javanese4 ,x has become simpl] & m direct4 ,"t is ( v little value 9 ,java2 !re=e1 ! native arti/s work$ )\t reg>d = ! "t sp5t4 ,specim5s ( ,batik "w 7 c>ri$ to ,holl& dur+ ! sev5te5? c5tury by ! ,dut* ,ea/ ,india ,company z "o ( ! int]e/+ products ( ,java4 ,! "w 0 nei!r und]/ood nor appreciat$ at t "t1 & ! lack ( appreciation disc\rag$ any fur!r importation4 ,some:at lat] ! ,dut* arti/s1 ,*ris ,lebeau1 ,ea*et & ,dysselh(1 appreciat+ ! beauties ( ?is craft1 /udi$ x !mselves4 ,by _! exquisite "w !y ar\s$ an int]e/ among arti/s4 ,f ,holl& ! craft spread to ,france1 & to ! al]t arti/s ( ^! c\ntries we owe ! increas$ appreciation4 ,! "w done 9 ,europe has be5 appli$ to int]ior decorations r ?an to co/umes4 ,?is side has be5 left to ! ,am]ican design] & arti/4 ,! co/umes illu/rat$ 9 ?is volume are beautiful examples ( co/ume design+ 9 its broade/ s5se4 ,bo? 9 ,europe & 9 ,am]ica consid]able exp]im5t+ has be5 done ) diff]5t k9ds ( tools4 ,v>i\s ,european modifications ( ! tjant+ h be5 tri$1 b none h be5 receiv$ ) mu* favor4 ,!y are1 z a rule1 heavy & awkw>d to use 9 comp>ison ) ! ,javanese in/rum5t4 ,"s ( ! lead+ work]s ( ,am]ica & ,holl& consid] ! ,javanese tjant+ ! mo/ desirable means ( outl9+1 dott+1 etc4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,dress ( velvet ,batik by ,e!l ,wallace ,illu/ration3 ,a ,batik ,silk ,sc>f1 design$ & execut$ by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$1 ,van ,dyck ,/udios1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,an int]e/+ ,batik ,bl\se1 design$ by ,anna ,tyrell1 ,art ,dep>tm5t1 ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago ,illu/ration3 ,a simple1 b beautiful ,batik ,bl\se 9 two tones1 by ,noank ,/udio1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,two ,batik ,bl\ses1 by ,flor5ce ,e4 ,s*ell1 ,lima1 ,ohio ,illu/ration3 ,batik ,g>m5t %[+ int]e/+ treatm5t ( tjant+ & bru% comb9$1 by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$1 ,van ,dyck ,/udios1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 8,an ,am]ican ,batik10 by ,m>y ,tannahill1 %[n at ! exhibition ( ,am]ican textiles & co/umes1 held at ! ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory 9 ,new ,york4 8,! decoration on ?is graceful g[n is 9 ! _s ( ,s\? ,sea ,isl& ,art40 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,batik ,robe1 by ! ,noank ,/udio1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,"o end ( a ,javanese ,s>ong4 ,prop]ty ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,! bru% is 9 mu* m g5]al use ?an ! tjant+ & is pref]r$ by _m :o h exp]im5t$ ) bo?4 ,a small r$ sable1 ,no4 #d1 is good = outl9+4 ,if x seems to c>ry too mu* wax or does n po9t well1 let ! wax h>d5 & trim (f ! project+ hairs4 ,a ,no4 #f to a ,no4 #ab bru% w fill 9 flat surfaces rapidly4 ,) practice1 beautiful l9e "w c be done ) a small bru%4 ,9 ! beg9n+1 x is safe to wipe (f a little ( ! wax on ! side ( ! cup in/ead ( try+ to c>ry to ! clo? all ! wax ! bru% w hold4 ,x is s easy to drop a bit ( wax f an ov]load$ bru% & s tr\blesome to get x (f t consid]able caution pays4 ,if a bru% ov]load$ ) hot wax is set on ! clo?1 ! wax w spread 9 a drop or blur at ! po9t :]e ! bru% t\*es ! clo?1 :i* w make ! l9e irregul>4 ,( c\rse1 to h an ev5 fl[ ( wax f ! bru%1 ! temp]ature ( ! wax mu/ be kept ! same4 ,if ! work] dips fir/ into wax t is hot & :i* s9ks into ! clo? easily & !n into wax t is s cool t x /ays on top ( ! clo? & refuses to p5etrate ! fib]1 ! f9i%$ "w w be ragg$ & unev5 ab\t ! edges4 ,:ile apply+ ! wax ! clo? may be held up1 free f ! table1 ) ! left h&4 ,) small articles ?is is q easy4 ,a l>g] piece c be manag$ 9 ! same way1 b ?is is n recomm5d$ z ! v be/ way4 ,in/ead1 a wood5 frame1 adju/able 9 size at ! corn]s & fac$ ) clo?1 to :i* ! mat]ial c be ei!r ba/$ or p9n$1 is advis$4 ,) a ,batik frame su* z describ$ ! clo? is held smoo?ly & firmly 9 place1 mak+ x easy to get good edges & long smoo? l9es ) ei!r a tjant+ or bru%4 ,if no frame is us$ great c>e mu/ be ex]cis$ to avoid lett+ ! wax p5etrate ! clo? & t\* any?+ beh9d1 z x w /ick4 ,9 lift+ x away ! wax cov]+ w be torn f ! back ( ! ?reads4 ,if ?is is n notic$ be=e dye+ ! dye w h a *ance to p5etrate ^! fib]s & s spoil ! cle>ness ( ! patt]n4 ,if1 9 apply+1 ! wax spreads too f> ov] ! patt]n1 x is probably too hot4 ,to remove ! ov]fl[1 x w probably be necess>y to take (f a l>g] space ?an is exactly ne$$4 ,?is w leave ragg$ edges1 :i* w ne$ re-wax+4 ,if a drop is spill$ 9 ! wrong place :ile c>ry+ ! bru% or tjant+1 x mu/ be completely remov$ or ! f9i%$ product w be m>r$4 ,?is _c be ov]-emphasiz$1 z x is usually incompletely done4 ,to remove ! wax f a spot or "p ( a design1 lay ! spot ov] an absorb5t pad ( "s k9d1 su* z a s(t t[el fold$4 ,wet ! spot ) gasol9e1 b5z9e or c>bona4 ,cont9ue wett+ & v light rubb+ until ! wax is completely dissolv$ & is ei!r absorb$ by ! clo? ) :i* y h be5 patt+1 or ! pad bel[4 ,illu/ration3 ,design ( a ,javanese ,s>ong4 ,prop]ty ( ,fay ,coop] ,cole ,d n pile on m wax 9 ?is case1 z "o may h a lump ( wax on top & ! clo? /ill n be protect$4 ,also ! lumps (t5 *ip (f 9 dye+1 expos+ ! fib]4 ,take a knife or any edge & remove ! loose wax g5tly & re-wax4 ,wax t is too cool w n give a smoo? edge to ! design4 ,x is easy to tell by look+ at ! back ( ! clo? :e!r ! wax has p5etrat$4 ,a ?9 silk w all[ x to p5etrate s easily t ! design w be j z cle> & di/9ct on ! back z ! front4 ,heavy clo? w ne$ "s ret\*+ on ! back1 probably :]e bru% /rokes d n q meet4 ,sometimes a drop ( wax w seem to p5etrate 9 ! middle b w be loose at ! edges4 ,?is means t ! wax is too cool4 ,a little practice w make ! "r temp]ature easy to e/imate4 ,"s work]s lay ! clo? on a glass slab to :i* ! wax w n /ick4 ,?is cools x be=e x really p5etrates ! clo?4 ,sometimes x is desirable to foll[ ! outl9e ( ! patt]n ) wax be=e fill+ 9 ! solid p>ts4 ,to d ?is1 hold ! bru% v]tically z 9 draw+ any pa9t$ bru% l9e4 ,a ,no4 #a bru% is good = v f9e l9es4 ,9 cov]+ a l>ge space1 x is sometimes bett] to beg9 wax+ 9 ! c5t] & "w outw>d t[>d ! edge4 ,illu/ration3 ,examples ( ,batik1 done by ! /ud5ts ( ! ,design ,dep>tm5t1 ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago ,"s means ( keep+ ! wax hot mu/ be provid$4 ,x is q desirable also to be able to regulate ! heat1 s gas or alcohol1 ) suitable burn]s1 are really be/4 ,a b[l ( wax may be set 9 ! top ( a tea kettle ( boil+ wat] & w hold a good temp]ature = half an h\r )\t reheat+ ! wat]4 ,wax w smoke ov] a direct heat & w1 ( c\rse1 burn4 ,! bri/les ( a bru% w also burn if left 9 contact ) ! bottom ( ! pan ov] a direct fire4 ,all bo!r ( ?is k9d is ov]come by hav+ ! wax 9 a b[l set 9 a pan ( hot wat]4 ,once "s small girls :o 7 />t+ ?is "w all[$ ! wat] to spla% into ! inn] b[l4 ,?is 0 aft]w>ds set ov] ! direct flame4 ,!re 0 a gr& explosion & spatt]+ ( hot wax4 ,illu/ration3 ,c5t] panel ( a ,javanese ,s>ong4 ,prop]ty ( ,a4 ,b4 ,lewis ,v>i\s wax mixtures h be5 us$ successfully4 ,a suitable wax mu/ n scale (f1 mu/ n get s h>d z to crack too freely1 & mu/ n be affect$ by :atev] *emicals are f\nd 9 ! dyes or are us$ z mordants4 ,a beeswax & res9 mixture1 wax ) ma/ic1 p>aff9 ) l>d1 p>aff9 & beeswax 9 v>y+ proportions h all be5 us$ successfully4 ,p>aff9 alone is r brittle & produces too mu* 8crackle0 9 cold wea!r4 ,beeswax alone is r too s(t to use 9 w>m wea!r & n brittle en\gh if any crackle is desir$4 ,!re=e1 mixtures ( ^! v>i\s sub/ances sugge/$ give a wax t w crackle some:at b n too mu*4 ,= ! beg9n] x is safe to buy "o ( ! prep>$ mixtures on ! m>ket & exp]im5t lat] ) ! v>i\s possible comb9ations sugge/$1 aft] becom+ ?or\ghly famili> ) ! result want$4 ,! design mu/1 9 "s way1 be got on ! clo?4 ,?is is a place :]e c>eless "w may spoil a beautiful design4 ,! l9es on ! clo? mu/ be s c>efully & cle>ly made t ! bru% c foll[ !m )\t ! slighte/ hesitation4 ,all corrections %\ld be made be=e ! trac+ is consid]$ f9i%$ & ! wax+ />t$4 ,if a mi/ake is made ) ! p5cil l9es1 8,c>bona0 or gasol9e w remove ! wrong m>ks4 ,a ,conte p5cil1 ,no4 #b1 trimm$ to a %>p po9t1 is v satisfactory1 especially if ! piece is to be dy$ sev]al times1 z ! m>ks w n bru% (f z *>coal or *alk l9es w4 ,= a simple "o-process piece1 *>coal %>p5$ c>efully w s]ve satisfactorily4 ,if ! mat]ial to be us$ is ?91 :i* is desirable = fir/ pieces1 ! clo? c be p9n$ c>efully on top ( ! draw+ & trac$ z j expla9$4 ,if ! clo? is too heavy = ! l9es ( ! draw+ to be se5 cle>ly1 ! back ( ! design c be rubb$ ) *>coal1 ! design laid c>efully 9 place1 *>coal side d[n4 ,!n ) a %>p h>d p5cil ! l9es ( ! draw+ may be trac$ on ! "r side4 ,:5 ! pap] is remov$1 ! design w be on ! clo? 9 *>coal l9es4 ,if x is to be dy$ 9 sev]al colors lat] x w be bett] to g ov] ! patt]n n[ ) ! ,conte ,no4 #b v c>efully1 z ! *>coal du/s (f easily4 ,use ! p5cil lightly b cle>ly ) ev5 l9es4 ,! clo? mu/ be p9n$ or ?umb-tack$ s firmly t x does n slide ov] ! design4 ,x is a little h>d] to fa/5 exce$+ly ?9 mat]ial l georgette or voile firmly en\gh to get a good trac+1 s ab\t ! weight ( m$ium *9a silk or ?9 crepe is ! easie/ mat]ial to beg9 )4 ,illu/ration3 8,! ,%eep & ! ,goats40 ,a mod]n ,batik ,wall ,hang+1 by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$1 ! ,van ,dyck ,/udios1 ,new ,york ,if a design is to be repeat$ sev]al times1 z w\ld be ne$$ = ! bord] ( a curta91 ! *>coal rubb+ may be ! mo/ conv5i5t4 ,! design c be prick$ ) a p9 & p[d]$ *>coal du/$ on ! smoo? upp] side ( ! patt]n4 ,! dang] 9 ?is is t too small a numb] ( po9ts w be prick$ to give ! design cle>ly4 ,a bett] means ( do+ ?is is to foll[ ! patt]n ) a sew+ ma*9e aft] remov+ ! ?read & press] foot s t ! pap] c be turn$ freely4 ,"s ,batik work]s make _! design on ?9 pap] :i* is p9n$ to ! back ( ! clo? & ! latt] plac$ on a frame set aga9/ a w9d[ at ab\t an angle ( #de degrees4 ,?is is some:at on ! pr9ciple ( ! photograph]s' ret\*+ frame4 ,illu/ration3 ,! end ( a ,table ,cov] done 9 "o color ,batik1 ! :ite design be+ done 9 wax1 & ! entire piece !n dipp$ ,illu/ration3 8,! ,sorc]ess40 ,a ,batik ,wall ,hang+1 by ,ar?ur ,crisp & ,pet] ,mij] ,illu/ration3 ,detail ( a r>e ,javanese ,batik 9 ! ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,,*apt] ,,iv ,,processes ,,( ,,batik ,,dye+ ,! intricacy ( ! design is ! det]m9+ factor 9 ! numb] ( processes necess>y = any giv5 piece ( ,batik4 ,! m colors desir$1 ! m (t5 w ! fabric h to be imm]s$ 9 ! dye ba?4 ,! simple/ & !re=e fir/ process = ! beg9n] is t ( dye+ ! mat]ial "o color ) ! patt]n left 9 ! orig9al color ( ! clo?4 ,= conv5i5ce1 ?is w be ref]r$ to z ! fir/ or elem5t>y process4 ,! bl\se %[n on page #bc 0 made on silk4 ,! design 0 drawn out c>efully on pap] & !n trac$ on ! silk4 ,! design 0 !n wax$ & dy$ 9 a bas9 conta9+ ab\t two qu>ts ( wat]1 "o-half teaspoon ( #cf acetic acid & a teaspoon ( imp]ial blue dye solution4 ,x 0 kept g5tly mov+ 9 ! dye = fifte5 m9utes1 r9s$ ?or\ghly1 dri$ & press$ betwe5 clean old newspap]s or blott+ pap] & iron$ dry4 ,! iron+ melts ! wax out4 ,if traces ( ! wax or p5cil m>ks /ill adh]e1 ! goods c be wa%$ 9 gasol9e or b5z9e4 ,:5 ! wax 0 remov$1 ! result 0 a piece ( two-tone ,batik "w ( deep blue ) a :ite design4 ,= mo/ ,batik "w1 light color$ fabrics are us$1 z designs c be successfully d>k5$1 b _c be made light] on d>k goods4 ,b1 on ! :ole1 a delicate color is bett] z a f\ndation ?an :ite1 because ! :ite w (t5 be a little out ( h>mony ) ! colors4 ,! designs = ! two *>m+ sa%es on page #cg illu/rate additional /eps 9 m elaborate designs4 ,! "r-h& sc>f 0 dy$ fir/ s t ! gr\nd 0 n :ite4 ,= su* a sa% "o-half teaspoon ( dye solution 9 f\r qu>ts ( wat]1 ) "o teaspoon ( #cf acetic acid1 w\ld be us$ = ! backgr\nd1 ) p]haps a t5-m9ute imm]sion4 ,aft] x 0 dy$ x %\ld be r9s$ ?or\ghly 9 cool wat] to remove all excess acid & any loose color4 ,r9se until ! wat] is practically cle>4 ,hang x up s t x w dry smoo?ly4 ,:5 dry1 wax ! fl[]s1 ! connect+ l9es1 & ! broad light b&s4 ,prep>e ! second dye4 ,an agreeable color s*eme is p9k = ! lighte/1 made by us+ sc>let dye 9 a weak solution1 a deep] p9k = ! second color1 & lav5d] = ! la/4 ,if ! color s*eme sugge/$ 7 to be us$1 ! same dye w\ld be us$ = ! deep] p9k & ! mat]ial imm]s$ a second "t ) ! addition ( ano!r teaspoon ( ! sc>let dye solution to ! bas94 ,aft] ! second dye+1 all ! sup]flu\s color 0 r9s$ out1 x 0 dri$1 & ! p>ts to rema9 ! deep p9k 7 wax$4 ,t left ! heavy b&s alone expos$ to ?is la/ dye ba?4 ,= ?is a gre5 solution 0 us$ :i* on ! p9k gives a beautiful grey lav5d]4 ,a color s*eme (1 fir/1 orange dye2 second1 br[n dye1 & ?ird1 navy blue dye1 is attractive4 ,"s silks w ravel s z to make a good fr+e2 9 t case a patt]n = ! fr+e w\ld be dy$ 9 be=e ravel+4 ,) a pur*as$ fr+e ! ti$ & dy$ me?od w give *>m+ b&s4 ,illu/ration3 ,two sa%es done 9 ,batik by ! /ud5ts ( ! ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago ,! int]e/+ sa% %[n on ! left ( ! previ\s page is also a ?ree-process piece 9 :i* great] contra/ has be5 kept betwe5 ! colors4 ,su* a place z ! w+ & cr[n ( ! bird figur$ on ! velvet bag %[n on page #cj c\ld well be pa9t$ 9 ) a bru%4 ,a bl5d+ ( ! colors f\nd 9 "s ( ! tropical birds--yell[1 orange & blue1 = in/ance--w\ld be gorge\s4 ,! process ( clean+ & f9i%+ velvet is long & requires skill to d x successfully4 ,! craft work] is advis$ to s5d a piece ( velvet ,batik to a pr(essional if possible1 r ?an risk spoil+ x h]self4 ,an abbreviat$ outl9e ( ! process is z foll[s3 ,fir/1 remove all wax+ ) b5z9e1 us+ sev]al ba?s2 second1 raise ! nap ) dry /eam1 t is1 /eam c>ry+ z little wat] z possible4 ,avoid t\*+ ! nap :ile /eam+ & d n crease or fold :ile damp4 ,aft] ! nap is rais$ by ! /eam1 bru% x g5tly 9 ! direction ( ! nap ) a bri/le clo!s bru%4 ,= m elaborate "w1 :]e a comb9ation ( colors is desir$ 9 ! design1 ! pa9t+ process may be us$4 ,z 9 ! previ\s cases1 ! mat]ial is /ret*$ on ! ,batik frame & ! design outl9$ & !n wax$ 94 ,if a comb9ation ( colors is to be us$1 x is be/ to h ! design 9 colors on pap] z a guide4 ,x is v easy to become confus$ z to colors to be us$ on ! v>i\s sections ( ! patt]n1 & mi/akes 9 pa9t+ ) dyes are s]i\s1 z ! color c only be remov$ ) a solution ( ammonia or wa%+ soda4 ,) ! color$ design be=e "o1 ! dyes are mix$ & tri$ on a scrap ( ! mat]ial4 ,?is me?od ( apply+ color ) a bru% is desirable only = small spots or surfaces4 ,x is n possible to cov] l>ge surfaces ev5ly ) a bru%1 z ! color w be /rong] 9 ! spot fir/ t\*$ by ! bru%4 ,9 dye+ "o color ov] ano!r ! result is a modifi$ color :i* seldom h>monizes ) spots ( color t are pa9t$ 94 ,9 addition1 ! color is n z fa/ :5 appli$ 9 ?is way1 z x does n h ! *ance to p5etrate ! fib] ( ! clo? z 9 dye+4 ,?is use ( ! bru% is a conv5i5t me?od ( ins]t+ small spots ( a contra/+ color t w\ld o!rwise require a re-wax+ ( ! :ole piece ( goods1 b is n recomm5d$ z a sub/itute = dipp+ process4 ,illu/ration3 ,! c5t] panel ( a ,javanese ,batik ,illu/ration3 ,a ,table ,runn]1 by ,g]trude ,d&ilik51 ,design ,dep>tm5t1 ,art ,in/itute ( ,*icago ,illu/ration3 ,a design motif f a ,javanese ,s>ong4 ,c\rtesy ( ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,a gr\p ( ,batik articles1 done by ! /ud5ts 9 ! ,w9netka1 ,ill41 ,high ,s*ool ,illu/ration3 ,a mod]n ,batik ,hang+ ,,*apt] ,v ,,crackle ,,9 ,,batik ,z ! work] 9 ,batik dyes 8 mat]ial1 he f9ds t ! wax on ! clo? w crack z x is h&l$4 ,! dye w !n p5etrate ^! cracks 9 f9e l9es4 ,! ,javanese work] consid]s ^! l9es undesirable & h&les 8 goods ) ! greate/ c>e to avoid produc+ !m4 ,he _c1 h[ev]1 avoid !m entirely ev5 ) ! greate/ c>e4 ,he desires cle> ev5 edges no matt] h[ f9e & complicat$ ! patt]n4 ,by look+ closely at ! v f9e/ specim5s1 ^! f9e cracks w always be f\nd me&]+ ?r\gh ! patt]n4 ,to ! ,european ?is is "p ( ! *>m ( ,batik4 ,z ! craft work]s ( ?is c\ntry began exp]im5t+ ) ,batik "w1 !y discov]$ ! moss-l patt]n produc$ by ?is crackl+ ( ! wax4 ,?is gave a quick easy me?od ( mak+ an all-ov] patt]n & 0 imm$iately seiz$ ^u4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 x is us$ to produce quick patt]n effects1 or to s(t5 ! effect1 by putt+ a f9e 8crackle0 ( "s h>moniz+ color ov] ! :ole patt]n4 ,= in/ance1 fl[]s h be5 left :ite1 ! backgr\nd blue1 & leaves gre54 ,! fl[]s seem too :ite & /& out too /rongly4 ,cru% ! wax ov] ! fl[] to produce f9e l9es ( crackle 9 ! wax & dye 9 ! blue ( ! backgr\nd aga94 ,?is br+s ! :ite into h>mony ) ! colors4 ,l _m o!r processes x c be ov]done v easily4 ,to make a crackle piece1 /ret* ! mat]ial on a frame tightly4 ,take a broad bri/le bru%1 ,no4 #c or #d1 & cov] all ! surface to be crackl$ ev5ly ) wax4 ,hang ! clo? on a wax$ l9e to h>d5 & also to all[ any sup]flu\s wax to drip (f4 ,aft] ! wax has /iff5$1 ! next /ep dep5ds ^u ! wea!r4 ,:5 x is s w>m t ! wax w n become brittle 9 ! air1 x may be put 9 ! refrig]ator1 or x may be laid 9 cold wat] to *ill4 ,9 "s way ! wax mu/ be cool$ until x w crack :5 cru%$ 9 ! h&s4 ,if a f9e all ov] patt]n ( crackle is want$1 crumple 9 ! h&s 9 su* a way z to crack ! wax ?or\ghly 9 e direction 9 f9e l9es4 ,if a heavy crackle is want$1 wax & *ill z be=e1 !n twi/ or wr+ ! mat]ial 9 su* a way z to give deep]1 heavi] cracks4 ,a little practice w make ^! sugge/ions cle>4 ,x w sometimes be desirable to crackle c]ta9 p>ts or spots 9 a design 9 bo? ( ^! ways4 ,aft] crackl+ ! wax1 dye z 9 any ,batik piece4 ,/ir con/antly to dye ev5ly 9 e small crack4 ,r9se v ?or\ghly to remove all extra dye f ! cracks4 ,?is process may be repeat$ ) ano!r color1 s t ! two sets ( crackle l9es int]m+le4 ,?is adapts itself well to bord]s ( any k9d1 bl\ses1 table sc>fs1 & if pati5ce all[s1 to all-ov] patt]ns = bags1 pill[ tops1 etc4 ,! play ( color t c be secur$ ) ^! crackle patt]ns is *>m+1 & has be5 us$ ext5sively z a "p ( ! design4 ,illu/ration3 ,a mod]n ,batik ,wall ,hang+1 by ,pet] ,mij] & ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ,9 ! decorative panel by ,jean ,p4 ,sluss] on page #de ! figures h be5 treat$ ) a r light crackle & ! backgr\nd betwe5 ! tree trunks ) a mu* heavi] crackle4 ,9 ! memorial panel on page #dh ! semi-circul> fram+ b& & ! gr\nd bel[ ! figure h be5 crackl$ c>efully4 ,bo? ( ^! uses ( crackle sugge/$ are sugge/ive ( desirable possibilities ( ! crackle =ms4 ,a simil> use ( crackle to add v>iety to special pla9 surfaces is illu/rat$ 9 ! fram+ panel ( ! drap]y on page #dc4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration3 ,two ,javanese ,batiks ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,batik design f ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,a ,batik ,memorial ,hang+1 by ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ,illu/ration3 ,an unusual piece ( ,sam>ang ,batik 9 ! ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,,*apt] ,,vi ,,color ,,& ,,h[ ,,to ,,use ,,x ,= ^? :o h n _h an opportunity ( /udy+ color1 ! foll[+ explanation ( ! !ory ( mix+ colors may n be amiss4 ,yell[1 r$1 & blue are call$ ! /&>d or prim>y colors4 ,f ^! we make ! ?ree b9>y or second>y colors1 orange1 gre51 & violet4 ,orange is produc$ by mix+ r$ & yell[4 ,gre5 is produc$ by mix+ blue & yell[4 ,violet is produc$ by mix+ r$ & blue4 ,^! prim>y & b9>y colors are ?\ght ( z ?\gh !y 7 arrang$ 9 a circle4 ,divide ! circumf]5ce ( a circle 9 six equal p>ts4 ,draw ?ree diamet]s ?r\gh ! po9ts f\nd4 ,beg9 at ! top ) yell[4 ,"o-six? ( ! di/ance to ! left1 we place orange1 at ! next diamet]'s end place r$4 ,at ! bottom ( ! circle opposite yell[ is violet4 ,pass+ upw>d t[>d ! "r blue is opposite orange1 & cont9u+ upw>d1 gre5 is opposite r$4 ,! colors at opposite ends ( ! ?ree diamet]s are call$ complem5ts4 ,yell[ is ! complem5t ( violet & violet ( yell[4 ,orange is ! complem5t ( blue & blue ( orange4 ,r$ is ! complem5t ( gre5 & gre5 ( r$4 ,! outside ( ! circle 9 ! cut repres5ts ! full /r5g? ( ! pure color4 ,! addition ( diff]5t am\nts ( :ite & black is indicat$ by ! inn] circles1 ! c5t] /&+ = pure :ite or pure black4 ,! circle may be subdivid$ to sugge/ _m gradations f ! full color ?r\gh ! t9ts to :ite & by ! addition ( black ?r\gh ! %ades to black4 ,?is sy/em ( gradation is a help 9 det]m9+ ! contra/ ( t9ts1 b is m useful 9 help+ to det]m9e relat$ h>monies up & d[n ! scale f black to ! pure color & !n ?r\gh ! t9ts to :ite4 ,r$1 ) "o "p ( :ite add$1 w\ld be indicat$ by ! second circle4 ,its complem5t w\ld be ! gre5 f\nd on ! second circle1 :i* has an equal am\nt ( :ite mix$ ) x1 produc+ a t9t4 ,! same arrangem5t holds true ) reg>d to black4 ,ea* circle repres5ts also "o portion ( black add$ to ! /&>d color1 produc+ a %ade4 ,!re is an almo/ indef9ite numb] ( ^! t9ts & %ades1 dep5d+ ^u _! location )9 ! color circle4 ,x is f\nd t equal p>ts ( ! prim>y colors r$1 yell[1 & blue make neutral grey4 ,any b9>y color plus a prim>y color makes grey4 ,= in/ance1 a b9>y gre51 :i* is made ( ! two prim>ies yell[ & blue1 add$ to a prim>y r$ produces grey4 ,9 ! same way1 a b9>y orange1 :i* is a comb9ation ( prim>y r$ & yell[1 add$ to blue makes grey4 ,illu/ration3 ,,color ,,circle ,= explanation ( ?is 8,color ,circle0 see page #ej ,a b9>y violet1 :i* is prim>y r$ & blue1 add$ to yell[ makes grey4 ,colors may be s(t5$ or grey$ by add+ a little black or br[n dye or by add+ ! complem5t>y color4 ,a bright gre51 = in/ance1 is s(t5$ ei!r by add+ a little black or br[n or ! complem5t ( gre51 :i* is r$4 ,dyes are mix$ 9 mu* ! same mann] z pa9ts & x is necess>y to "k ! action ( "o color ^u ano!r4 ,especially mu/ "o "k h[ grey is produc$ s z n to produce ?is effect :5 su* a result is undesirable & yet avoid too vivid comb9ations4 ,9 mix+ dyes bo? br[n & black are valuable to tone d[n ! cle> colors4 ,!re ne$ be no fe> ( produc+ a muddy color by add+ black or br[n dye to ! colors1 z is produc$ by add+ black pa9t1 because ! black dye is made up ( p>ticles ( o!r colors4 ,valuable help 9 reproduc+ color comb9ations is f\nd 9 keep+ a record ( ! am\nts & colors us$1 ! weight or size ( mat]ial dy$1 & ! l5g? ( "t ! goods is 9 ! dye ba?4 ,if comm]cial dyes are us$1 foll[ ! directions giv5 exactly z on ! package4 8,top dye+0 means to dye ov] ano!r color4 ,! mat]ial may be a light blue4 ,ov] ?is or on top ( ?is1 a gre5 is dy$1 giv+ a blue gre5 result4 ,9 dye+ "o color ov] ano!r ! result naturally dep5ds ^u ! /r5g? ( ! fir/ z well z ^u t ( ! succe$+ dyes4 ,z yell[ is ne>e/ :ite 9 value1 x is wise to dye yell[ fir/ if o!r colors are to be add$4 ,if ! yell[ is weak ! o!r dyes w be v little affect$ by x z !y are mu* /rong]4 ,if a /rong yell[ has be5 us$ fir/1 ! foll[+ modifications may be expect$3 ,,color ,,table ,,= ,,top ,,dye+ ,orange ov] yell[ w give orange yell[4 ,r$ ov] yell[ w give r$ orange4 ,blue ov] yell[ w give gre54 ,gre5 ov] yell[ w give yell[ gre54 ,violet or mag5ta ov] yell[ w give grey4 ,br[n ov] yell[ w give yell[ br[n4 ,black ov] yell[ w give grey4 ,if a blue dye is to be us$ fir/1 ! foll[+ sugge/ions may help4 ,accord+ly z ! blue us$ is /rong or weak1 x w appe> 9 ! result+ comb9ation /rongly or weakly4 ,! top dye us$ ov] x w equally ( c\rse c\nt 9 ! result+ comb9ation accord+ z x is /rong or weak4 ,hav+ ^! two po9ts 9 m9d we c say3 ,r$ ov] blue w give purple4 ,violet ov] blue w give blue violet4 ,gre5 ov] blue w give blue gre54 ,yell[ ov] blue w give gre54 ,br[n ov] blue w give d>k br[n4 ,black ov] blue w give blue black4 ,illu/ration3 8,spr+40 ,a ,batik ,wall ,hang+1 by ,c4 ,b]tram ,h>tman & ,pet] ,mij] ,) r$ z ! basic color1 & ) ! /r5g? ( color 9 m9d z sugge/$ be=e1 we f9d t ,orange ov] r$ w give orange r$4 ,yell[ ov] r$ w give orange4 ,gre5 ov] r$ w give d>k grey1 gre5 or r$4 ,blue ov] r$ w give violet4 ,violet ov] r$ w give r$ violet4 ,br[n ov] r$ w give r$ br[n4 ,black ov] r$ w give grey r$4 ,! foll[+ mixtures ( dyes are valuable3 ,yell[1 orange & blue ) yell[ pr$om9at+ make gold4 ,orange & gre5 ) orange pr$om9at+ give russet %ades4 ,orange1 gre5 & r$ give orange br[n4 ,orange1 blue & mag5ta give bronze4 ,9 /udy+ out ! color s*eme ( any piece x is desirable to ref] to ! ,color ,*>t = contra/s1 relat$ colors & comb9ations t are n famili>4 ,if a p]fect balance ( contra/ ( any t9t ( a color is desir$1 ! contra/+ t9t mu/ %[ ! same proportion ( :ite 9 its make-up2 b ! contra/ may be made m decid$ by *oos+ a light] contra/+ t9t4 ,yell[ has ! t5d5cy to come ne>] ! obs]v] & x adds w>m? & brilliancy to all its comb9ations ) o!r colors4 ,r$ is less brilliant ?an yell[1 b x is ! mo/ int5se & positive ( all ! colors4 ,blue is ! retreat+ cold color4 ,x %[s its quality be/ by daylight4 ,blue & :ite are ! /ronge/ color contra/s except+ black & :ite4 ,gre51 compos$ ( ! prim>ies yell[ & blue1 is capable ( great v>iation f cool to w>m accord+ to ! am\nt ( ei!r blue or yell[ ent]+ into x4 ,its contra/ is r$4 ,orange is ! mo/ brilliant ( ! second>y colors4 ,x is mo/ useful :5 ton$ d[n to old gold & russet4 ,violet is ! d>ke/ ( ! second>y colors4 ,z x conta9s mu* blue x has a t5d5cy to fade into a neutral br[ni% color by artificial light4 ,! t]ti>y colors russet1 olive1 & citr9e are mo/ valuable4 ,russet is made up ( orange & violet1 :i* aga9 are compos$ ( yell[1 blue1 & r$4 ,r$ be+ 9 bo? ( ^! colors1 russet evid5tly belongs to ! r$ gr\p ( colors1 & conta9s a small] proportion ( bo? yell[ & blue4 ,! contra/ to russet is f deep gre5 to blue grey = a v orange %ade4 ,olive is dom9antly a blue color z x is made f gre5 & violet1 bo? ( :i* conta9 blue4 ,! contra/ ( olive is deep orange4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,sc>f ti$ 9 b&s across ! ends4 ,design$ by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$ ,illu/ration3 ,a ,sc>f1 %[+ a comb9ation ( ti$ squ>es1 circles & /ripes4 ,design$ by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$ ,citr9e is a comb9ation ( orange & gre51 & !re=e is made up ( ! prim>ies1 two p>ts yell[1 "o r$1 & "o blue4 ,yell[ is 9 ! l>ge/ am\nts1 r$ next1 & blue lea/4 ,^! ?ree colors are exce$+ly valuable to ! decorator z ea* "o has an enorm\s range ( t9ts & %ades & ! :ole gr\p is v pleas+ to ! eye4 ,!re are a few o!r colors t are s g5]ally us$ t !y des]ve special note4 ,fir/1 br[n1 !oretically produc$ by a mixture ( citr9e & olive or r$1 blue & yell[4 ,practically sev]al %ades require ! addition ( black dye to produce br[n4 ,a blui% or purpli% color accord+ to its %ade is its contra/4 ,m>oon is a r$ & br[n ^: contra/ is %ades ( gre54 ,t9ts & %ades ( any full color also give h>moni\s comb9ations4 ,! ne>] ! %ade approa*es black & ! t9t approa*es :ite1 ! great] ! contra/4 ,! m closely relat$ ! two are ! less ! contra/4 ,9 consid]+ color comb9ations we also h ! relat$ or analog\s gr\p1 f :i* to *oose our color s*emes4 ,^! are 9 e way m easily h&l$ 9 dye+ "w & are ( great] use especially to ! beg9n]4 ,a t9t is secur$ 9 dye+ by r$uc+ ) wat] ! full /r5g? ( ! dye & also %ort5+ ! "t ( imm]sion4 ,a %ade is secur$ by add+ black4 ,betwe5 ! full /r5g? ( ! dye & :ite1 h[ev]1 lies ! range ( t9ts mo/ easily us$4 ,ref] to ! ,color ,*>t = ! complem5ts ( ! t9ts & %ades4 ,^! v>y 9 ! case ( crimson1 = in/ance1 f deep crimson ?r\gh rose to ! pale/ p9k t9ts4 ,ea* decid$ color /ep 9 ?is scale gives relat$ t9ts t may safely be comb9$4 ,if !y are n f> remov$ f ea* o!r 9 int5sity1 !y give v little contra/1 b may be at ! same "t a v pleas+ comb9ation4 ,consid]able contra/ may be secur$ by us+ t9ts t are consid]ably remov$ f ea* o!r 9 ! color scale4 ,/ill ano!r gr\p ( color h>monies mu/ be consid]$4 ,?is is ! h>mony ( relat$ colors4 ,by ?is is meant ! h>mony ( all colors ( :i* blue1 = example1 =ms a "p4 ,?is gr\p runs all ! way f ! purpli% blues =m$ by add+ r$ ?r\gh all ! diff]5t blues to blue gre5s made by add+ yell[4 ,?is gr\p+ is especially useful 9 dye+1 z we c dye 9 "o su* gr\p v effectively1 />t+ ) ! yell[ f\nd 9 ! blue gre5 & work+ t[>d ! r$ f\nd 9 ! violet blues4 ,= dye+ purposes we c really make j two color gr\ps--! blue j giv5 & ! r$4 ,! r$ gr\p />ts ) ! r$ violets1 :i* conta91 ( c\rse1 r$ & blue1 & goes ?r\gh ! r$ gr\p into ! orange1 :i* is r$ & yell[4 ,illu/ration3 ,a c5t] panel ( a ,javanese ,batik ,,pleas+ ,,color ,,comb9ations ,! foll[+ table ( h>moniz+ colors is ins]t$ z a guide = ^? :o d n h a sci5tific k ( ,color & its _m h>monies3 ,black h>monizes ) crimson1 lemon1 yell[4 ,black h>monizes ) sc>let1 blue1 gre54 ,black h>monizes ) citr9e4 ,black h>monizes ) olive4 ,black h>monizes ) salmon4 ,black h>monizes ) primrose4 ,black h>monizes ) corn color4 ,black h>monizes ) orange4 ,black h>monizes ) gold4 ,black h>monizes ) :ite4 ,:ite h>monizes ) c]ise4 ,:ite h>monizes ) sc>let4 ,:ite h>monizes ) orange4 ,violet h>monizes ) sc>let1 blue1 orange4 ,violet h>monizes ) sc>let1 gold4 ,violet h>monizes ) corn color4 ,violet h>monizes ) gold4 ,violet h>monizes ) citr9es4 ,violet h>monizes ) yell[4 ,orange h>monizes ) violet4 ,orange h>monizes ) blue1 sc>let1 gre54 ,orange h>monizes ) purple1 sc>let4 ,orange h>monizes ) crimson1 blue4 ,orange h>monizes ) br[n4 ,orange h>monizes ) violet4 ,orange h>monizes ) blue4 ,d>k ,gre5 h>monizes ) crimson1 blue1 gold4 ,d>k ,gre5 h>monizes ) gold4 ,blue ,gre5 h>monizes ) orange4 ,gre5 h>monizes ) russet4 ,gre5 h>monizes ) sc>let4 ,gre5 h>monizes ) r$4 ,yell[ h>monizes ) violet1 sc>let1 blue4 ,yell[ h>monizes ) br[n4 ,yell[ h>monizes ) deep crimson4 ,yell[ h>monizes ) blue4 ,yell[ h>monizes ) violet4 ,crimson h>monizes ) black4 ,crimson h>monizes ) violet4 ,crimson h>monizes ) corn color4 ,crimson h>monizes ) orange4 ,crimson h>monizes ) gold4 ,crimson h>monizes ) yell[1 gre54 ,sc>let h>monizes ) blue1 grey4 ,sc>let h>monizes ) violet4 ,sc>let h>monizes ) blue4 ,sc>let h>monizes ) blue1 gre54 ,r$ h>monizes ) :ite4 ,r$ h>monizes ) grey4 ,r$ h>monizes ) blue4 ,r$ h>monizes ) gold4 ,r$ h>monizes ) gre54 ,blue h>monizes ) br[n1 crimson1 gold4 ,blue h>monizes ) orange1 gre54 ,blue h>monizes ) orange1 black4 ,blue h>monizes ) black4 ,blue h>monizes ) :ite4 ,blue h>monizes ) *ocolate br[n4 ,blue h>monizes ) neutral grey4 ,blue h>monizes ) salmon4 ,blue h>monizes ) /raw4 ,blue h>monizes ) corn color4 ,blue h>monizes ) gold4 ,blue h>monizes ) orange4 ,illu/ration3 8,! ,madonna40 ,a ,batik ,wall ,hang+1 by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$1 ,van ,dyck ,/udios1 ,new ,york ,,*apt] ,,vii 8,,ti$ ,,& ,,dy$0 ,,"w ,ano!r new-old process t has be5 reviv$ rec5tly is 8,tie-,dye+40 ,its arti/ic possibilities are z yet h>dly realiz$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,?is is p>tly due to ! difficulty t has be5 exp]i5c$ 9 dye+ ) a cold process & at ! same "t secur+ a /rong fa/ color4 ,?is difficulty has n[ be5 met4 ,! new 8,bateeko ,dyes0 prep>$ = ,batik "w c be us$ on wool & silk 9 cold or tepid wat]4 ,! dyes w wa% s t p]man5t effects c n[ be secur$4 ,if ! ty+ is firmly done1 ! goods c be dy$ by boil+1 s t ord9>y dyes1 t require boil+ to set !m1 c be also us$ successfully4 ,?is ,ti$ & ,dy$ "w is f\nd among _m primitive conditions & peoples4 ,9 old colonial days our gr&mo!rs made _! %ad$ wool by ?is me?od4 ,!y wrapp$ _! ske9s ( wool5 ?read ) corn husks & w\nd ^! ar\nd tightly ) cord to give ! necess>y pressure4 ,! portions cov]$ ) ! husks reta9$ ! orig9al color ( ! wool1 :ile ^? expos$ became ! color ( ! dye ba? into :i* !y 7 dipp$4 ,leg5d says t ! anci5t ,greeks ti$ ! bord]s ( _! robes to produce wav+ l9es4 ,two ma9 v>iations 9 me?od ( ,tie-,dye+ are3 ,fir/1 ! patt]n is develop$ by ty+ ! ?reads ( w>p or wo( or bo? be=e weav+4 ,second1 p>ts ( ! goods are ti$ be=e dye+ 9 su* a way z to protect spots ( ! clo? f ! action ( ! dyes4 ,! fir/ me?od is f\nd 9 anci5t ,p]uvian "w1 9 c5tral ,india1 & 9 p>ts ( ! ,philipp9es4 ,x is a complicat$ process & requires a high degree ( skill on ! "p ( ! weav]4 ,! second me?od 0 us$ to a l>ge ext5t 9 c5tral ,india1 & a few examples are also kn[n f ,p]u4 ,sir ,george ,watt1 9 8 8,indian ,art ( ,delhi10 gives su* a cle> description ( ,indian ,tie-,dye+1 ,knot-,dye+1 or ,b&ana "w t x is wor? quot+3 8,! once fam\s ,b&ana h&k]*iefs may be giv5 z ! be/ kn[n example ( ,tie-,dye+4 ,! process is simple1 b s labori\s t x c\ld only h be5 inv5t$ or practic$ 9 a c\ntry :]e food 0 *eap & consequ5tly human labor valu$ at an abnormally l[ figure4 ,tie-,dye+ may be describ$ briefly z foll[s3 ,! fabric is fold$ sev]al times into half until r$uc$ to a squ>e or rectangul> piece p]haps n m ?an "o foot by a foot & a half 9 l5g? & two or ?ree folds 9 ?ickness4 ,x is !n damp5$ & press$ ov] a block :i* consi/s ( a piece ( wood ) a mass ( nails or p9s fa/5$ all ov] x 9 elaboration ( "s design4 ,x is !n tak5 (f ! block & giv5 to a girl 7! ,b&hani7 :o purposely all[s h] ?umb & =ef+] nails to gr[ long ) a view to _! becom+ an indisp5sable pair ( p9c]s1 by means ( :i* m9ute p>ticles ( ! clo? may be laid hold ( readily4 ,! rais$ up portions indicat$ by ! block are seiz$ & deftly ti$ by a /r+ t may or may n h be5 coat$ ) a resi/ pa/e4 ,great skill is ne$$ n only to securely grasp all ! lay]s ( clo? at once1 b to s seize ea* portion t x may cr9kle 9 a p>ticul> mann] :ile be+ securely w\nd ar\nd & ti$4 ,moreov]1 ! ?read is n cut into sep>ate pieces at ea* ti$ po9t4 ,x is c>ri$ f ! "o to ! o!r & is m]ely held 9 position by ! turn ^u itself t is giv5 j be=e be+ c>ri$ to ! next po9t4 ,9 consequ5ce1 :5 ! op]ation ( dye+ has be5 complet$1 ! ?read may be readily unw\nd & us$ aga9 & aga94 ,illu/ration3 ,an example ( ,japanese ti$ & dy$ "w ,illu/ration3 ,a ti$ & dy$ ,jacket 8,! ,b&hani hav+ f9i%$ h] task1 ! fabric is giv5 to ! dy]1 :o beg9s by imm]s+ ! fold$ up & compactly ti$ clo? 9 ! lighte/ %ade t x is int5d$ to be giv51 say yell[4 ,:5 f9i%$1 x is h&$ to ! ,b&hani1 :o n[ impresses x ^u a second patt]n block1 & proce$s to tie a /ill fur!r s]ies ( rais$ up po9ts4 ,x is aga9 dy$ ! next %ade1 say r$1 & if ! patt]n & s*eme ( color desir$ be ?us complet$1 ! ?reads are unw\nd & ! fabric op5$ out1 :5 x w be f\nd to h a r$ field ) a patt]n 9 :ite & yell[ po9ts1 repeat$ sev]al times all ov] x4 8,in/ead ( /opp+ ) a r$1 a ?ird s]ies ( po9ts may be ti$1 & ! fabric dy$ black1 :5 ! patt]n w appe> 9 po9ts ( :ite1 yell[ & r$ on a black 7or black br[n7 field4 ,b %\ld a /ill m elaborate design be contemplat$1 ! ty+ & dye+ may be repeat$ indef9itely4 ,= example1 ! fir/ po9ts ti$ may h be5 v l>ge & ! clo? s fold$ t :5 !y are op5$ out !y =m p]fectly circul> :ite spots1 squ>es1 or />-%ap$ pat*es ^u ! fir/ gr\nd color4 ,^! may n[ be dealt ) sep>ately & be ti$ & reti$ until ! circles1 ! squ>es1 or ! />s become v>iegat$ by conc5tric b&s ( color1 or a f9al special spot may be giv5 9 ! c5t] ( ea* by uncov]+ ! tips s z to all[ ^! portions ( ! ti$ up spaces to receive ! desir$ t9t2 9 fact1 su* expos$ portions may be specially color$ by means ( a bru%4 ,b s9ce ! ty+ ( po9ts c nev] be absolutely complete1 ! v c5t] ( ea* be>s ! t9ie/ speck ( ! f9al field color4 8,in/ead ( us+ a block to raise up ! clo? at ! desir$ po9ts1 ! ,b&hani may simply proce$ to tie up portions accord+ to a patt]n t %e has practic$ until x has become second nature4 ,9 ?is way %e w "w rapidly & outl9e a bird1 a horseman or a fl[]1 & pass ov] c]ta9 po9ts 9 ! design t require to be ti$ at subsequ5t /ages1 :ile c>ry+ on a heat$ controv]sy ) h] neighbor or att5d+ to h] infant *ild4 ,& %e w return aga9 & aga9 to ! fur!r elaborations ( "o piece aft] ano!r ) ! c]ta9ty ( action t speaks ( intuition r ?an tra9+4 8,b in/ead ( circul>1 squ>e or />-%ap$ spots1 x may be desir$ to produce transv]se b&s or zigzag l9es ( "o color or ano!r4 ,?is is accompli%$ by fold+ ! clo? l5g?wise into1 say1 f\r folds1 !n ty+ at int]vals by a s]ies ( pat*es ( ! desir$ bread?4 ,if !n dy$ & subsequ5tly op5$ out1 x w be f\nd to h a gr\nd color ) zigzag transv]se b&s ( :ite4 ,hav+ obta9$ ?is result1 ! ord9>y po9t ty+ may next be resort$ to1 ) ! result ( produc+ a limitless s]ies ( effects40 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,cupbo>d ,curta9 9 ,batik4 ,design$ by soldi]s 9 ,u4 ,s4 ,g5]al ,hospital ,no4 #b1 "u direction ( ,lieut5ant ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ,illu/ration3 ,filip9o ti$ & dy$ "w4 ,c\rtesy ( ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory ,?is old process1 al?\gh impossible z a manufactur+ me?od "u mod]n indu/rial condition1 is full ( sugge/ions = ! art work]4 ,! simplicity ( ! process is "p ( its *>m4 ,!re is no long process ( trac+ ar\nd edges or smoo?+ curves4 ,! :ole ?\ght goes to plann+ ! %apes1 spac+1 & arrangem5t ( ! spots produc$ by ! ty+4 ,9 work+ ) a piece ( clo?1 all sorts ( int]e/+ design possibilities w develop4 ,9 />t+ to exp]im5t ) ?is "w1 x is a good plan to take "s s(t cord1 dip x fir/ 9 any conv5i5t wax1 su* z p>aff91 & cool x1 !n take a few old pieces ( s(t cotton clo? & try arrang+ ! fold+ & wrapp+ to f9d by actual exp]i5ce h[ to make diff]5t %apes4 ,to produce a 8ti$0 squ>e fold a piece ( clo? on :at is int5d$ to be ! two diagonals ( ! squ>e4 ,fold on ! fir/ diagonal & !n on ! second1 & !n hold+ "o end ( ! cord ) ! ?umb ( ! left h& beg9 at ! tip & wrap backw>d to ! desir$ dep?4 ,to make a circle1 pick up a po9t ( clo? & crease away f ! po9t z ev5ly z possible4 ,a %ot or m>ble ti$ 9 ! c5t] w give a color$ c5t] ) a light r+ or bord]--squ>e or r\nd1 z desir$4 ,if ! cord is wax$1 a s+le twi/ at ! bottom ( ! ti$ spot w hold x firmly4 ,"o lay] ( wax$ cord wrapp+ smoo?ly done w protect ! clo? bel[ p]fectly4 ,9 work+ ) semi-transp>5t mat]ial ! design c be fir/ block$ 9 ) *>coal on pap]4 ,di/ances f edges1 c5t]s1 etc41 %\ld be c>efully measur$ ) a rul]1 tape l9e1 or y>d /ick4 ,! size ( ! spots to be protect$ %\ld be plann$ c>efully1 !n1 lay+ ! clo? ov] ! plan1 ) ei!r blue tailor's *alk or *>coal1 m>k ! c5t]s ( squ>es & circles & l9es = oblongs4 ,) heavi] mat]ial1 aft] ! piece has be5 plann$ on pap]1 draw ! f\ndation l9es t give ! spac+ directly on ! clo? z be=e expla9$4 ,! necess>y equipm5t includes j>s = ! dye1 enamel pans1 pref]ably1 z acid corrodes metal pans 9 "t1 pl5ty ( /r+1 a cake ( p>aff9 wax1 & m>bles1 %ot1 etc4 ,! li/ ( articles = :i* ,tie-,dye+ is a suitable decoration is long3 ,pill[ tops1 sc>fs1 bags1 table & bureau cov]s1 curta9s1 b$-spreads1 bl\ses1 lamp %ades1 middy ties1 coll>s1 aprons1 etc4 ,a *>m+ lamp %ade c be made ( a squ>e piece ( cotton crepe dy$ gold fir/ )\t ty+1 !n ti$ to give a suitable gr\p ( orange br[n spots & bord]s4 ,illu/ration3 ,ti$ & dy$ "w 9 diagonal /ripes ,illu/ration3 ,figure #h %[s h[ to tie a small squ>e or circle2 ,figure #i1 = l>g] circles1 & ,figure #aj1 = conc5tric circles ,illu/ration3 ,%[+ a me?od ( tie-dye+ us$ 9 ,p]u4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,an example ( mod]n tie-dye+1 by ,amy ,swi%]1 ,a!ns1 ,ohio ,illu/ration3 ,an example ( tie-dye+ f an old ,p]uvian tomb4 ,c\rtesy ( ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,batik design4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,%[+ clo? ti$ 9 itself1 ready = dye+ ,illu/ration3 ,! end ( a ,sc>f ti$ ) /r+ ready = dye+ ,illu/ration3 ,%[+ intricate tjant+ "w on a ,javanese ,batik ,c\rtesy ( ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,n4 ,y4 ,illu/ration3 ,a bord] f a ,javanese ,batik ,c\rtesy ( ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,n4 ,y4 ,illu/ration3 ,javanese ,batiks4 ,metropolitan ,museum ,illu/ration3 ,javanese ,batiks4 ,metropolitan ,museum ,illu/ration3 8,! ,que540 ,a ,batik hang+ by ,ilonka ,k>asz4 ,c\rtesy ( ,academy ,art ,%op & 8,k]amic ,/udio0 ,illu/ration3 8,! ,k+40 ,a ,batik hang+ by ,ilonka ,k>asz4 ,c\rtesy ( ,academy ,art ,%op & 8,k]amic ,/udio0 ,,*apt] ,,viii ,,dye+ ,,sugge/ions ,9 ! pa/1 9 dye+ "u our ,am]ican conditions1 v little att5tion has be5 paid to ! durability ( ! dyes4 ,unless ! dye is specially prep>$ to be us$ ) ! cold process :i* is necess>y to keep ! wax f melt+1 ! colors w n be fa/ & ! "w !re=e only transi5t4 ,?is lack ( durability has (t5 disc\rag$ c>eful "w4 ,= ?is reason1 great c>e %\ld be us$ 9 ! *oice ( dyes4 ,! requirem5ts = good ,batik dyes are-- #a4 ,!y mu/ be easily appli$4 #b4 ,!y mu/ be us$ cold1 z ! wax melts at #abh ,fahr5heit or #fj ,c5tigrade4 #c4 ,! colors mu/ be suffici5tly fa/ to all[ ! wax to be remov$ )\t injury to ! color4 #d4 ,! colors mu/ n fade 9 light or 9 sun4 ,_m comm]cial dyes t are prep>$ to be us$ hot c be us$ some:at successfully cold4 ,!re w be m or less loss ( brilliancy & fa/ness ( color1 h[ev]4 ,^! dyes %\ld be us$ 9 a mu* /rong] solution ?an indicat$ by ! directions on ! packages4 ,! mo/ satisfactory results1 h[ev]1 are obta9$ by us+ colors prep>$ especially = ! cold process1 su* z ! 8,bateeko ,dyes40 ,!y are exce$+ly /rong & = t reason exact directions = mix+ f ! p[d]$ =m are impossible1 z a t9y speck ( ! p[d] w modify ! color mix$4 ,= exact measurem5ts x is recomm5d$ t ea* package ( ! ,prang ,bateeko ,dyes be dissolv$ 9 #a cups ( wat]2 t is1 ab\t #bj tablespoonfuls1 & t ! am\nt ( ea* color us$ 9 mix+ be tak5 ) measur+ spoons f ?is solution4 ,a p9t fruit j> is good to hold ! mixture4 ,! ext5sive use ( dye+ z a means ( pr9t+ textiles dates f ! #ai? c5tury1 :5 ! mod]n *emical dyes 7 discov]$4 ,!re is /ill a prejudice among "s p aga9/ ! use ( *emical dyes = art "w4 ,?is seems to be bas$ ^u ! undisput$ fact t 9 ! e>ly days ( ! dye indu/ry "s ( ! colors 7 s crude & h>% t p fell into ! delusion t all h>% colors 7 due to *emical dyes4 ,! *emi/s 9 ! meantime h be5 improv+ ^! products until n[ "o c dep5d ^u ! manufactur$ dyes = z beautiful colors z 7 ev] obta9$ by ! old] me?ods4 ,!y are s mu* m easily appli$ t x is l>gely = exp]im5tal purposes & z a means ( keep+ alive a craft ( our ance/ors t ! old processes are ev] us$4 ,"s br&s ( dyes are completely dissolv$ by /irr+ 9 hot wat]4 ,"s ne$ to be boil$ & /ra9$ to be p]fectly cle> f specks4 ,!y mu/ be ?or\ghly dissolv$4 ,mo/ dyes are us$ ) ei!r salt1 v9eg> or acid4 ,use :i*ev] is recomm5d$ by ! mak]s ( ! dyes us$4 ,= ,batik ! acid is g5]ally add$ to ! wat] 9 :i* ! clo? is to be dipp$4 ,dyes w all "w a trifle bett] 9 lukew>m ?an 9 cold wat]4 ,sev]al dipp+s 9 a weak dye w give a m p]man5t color ?an "o dye+ 9 a /rong color4 ,illu/ration3 ,a decorative ,batik ,hang+ by ,jean ,paul ,sluss]1 us+ ! ,javanese 8,tree ( ,life0 motif ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,batik1 %[+ ! ,tree ( ,life & ,bird ( ,p>adise4 ,c\rtesy ( ,am]ican ,museum ( ,natural ,hi/ory1 ,new ,york ,dyes v>y 9 _! t5d5cy to dye ev5ly or 9 spots1 & if ! work] f9ds h]self us+ a color hav+ a t5d5cy to /reak1 ?is c be ov]come by especial c>e 9 keep+ ! piece cont9ually mov+ :ile 9 t color4 ,to secure an ev5 color x is necess>y to keep a g5tle motion s z to prev5t ! dye f settl+ 9 any "p & to keep all ! clo? equally wet1 s t x is necess>y to h a vessel l>ge en\gh to keep ! clo? entirely "u ! wat] & mov+ freely4 ,9 us+ any metal pan "o %\ld n let dye conta9+ acids /& 9 x1 z ! metal w corrode4 ,an enamel pan ) a flaw w all[ ! acid to eat a hole 9 x 9 two weeks' "t 7z ! writ] f\nd74 ,dye ne$ nev] be ?r[n away4 ,if x dries to a p[d] or cry/al on ! bottom ( ! pan1 set ! pan away1 & :5 ! color is want$ aga9 add w>m wat] z at fir/ & dissolve aga94 ,sometimes z ! dye /&s 9 a pan day aft] day1 if x is 9 con/ant use1 "s color may settle on ! sides or a film may ga!r on top ( ! pan :i* w /reak or spot ! clo? if n notic$4 ,simply /ra9 ! dye into a clean vessel & cont9ue to use x z long z any color rema9s4 ,:5 ! work] c produce a piece ( ,batik or ti$-&-dy$ ) a dye t w la/1 !re is no excuse = c>eless "w4 ,& a piece ( ! "w %\ld receive ! "t & c>e 9 mak+ t its beautiful possibilities des]ve4 ,batik dye _c be us$ hot z ! wax w\ld melt4 ,if us$ v cold ! wax t5ds to crack & ! color w creep "u ! wax4 ,if too hot1 t is1 ov] #abh degrees ,fahr5heit1 ! wax melts & ! design is blurr$ or lo/4 ,! be/ temp]ature = ! dye ba? is betwe5 #ij & #aaj degrees ,fahr5heit4 ,z #ih degrees is blood heat1 if no !rmomet] is conv5i5t1 wat] t feels ! temp]ature ( ! wri/ w be all "r4 ,use pl5ty ( wat] to float ! clo?4 ,all[ x to move freely )\t cr[d+ 9 ! bas94 ,put only en\gh dye 9 ! wat] to color ! wat] di/9ctly4 ,! clo? w absorb ! dye color f ! wat] & leave ! wat] cle>1 if only en\gh dye has be5 us$4 ,if mu* dye rema9s 9 ! wat] aft] ! "w is f9i%$ x %[s t m dye 0 us$ ?an 0 necess>y4 ,if m dye is to be add$1 remove ! clo? f ! wat] & add 9 small quantities4 ,mairet's 8,vegetable ,dyes0 w give all ! =mulas necess>y = exp]im5t+ 9 t l9e if any read]s are int]e/$4 ,x is n only wa/e ( dye to use a /rong solution1 b a m durable fa/ color is secur$ by all[+ ! goods to rema9 9 ! dye ba? until !re is a ?or\gh union betwe5 ! dye & ! fib] ( ! clo?4 ,?is union _c be obta9$ 9 a few m9utes suffici5tly to /& mu* r\gh usage4 8,make ha/e sl[ly0 mu/ be ! motto ( ! dy] :o wi%es a p]man5t color4 ,rememb] ! "t requir$ 9 ! old indigo & turkey r$ processes4 ,illu/ration3 ,batik by ,ilonka ,k>asz4 ,c\rtesy ,academy ,art ,%op1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,batik by ,w9old ,reiss4 ,c\rtesy ,academy ,art ,%op1 ,new ,york ,!re=e1 x is bett] to all[ at ! v lea/ tw5ty m9utes = ! dye+4 ,an h\r is bett] = a sl[ color l black4 ,"s colors1 su* z black1 br[n & yell[1 unite ) ! fib] ( ! clo? m sl[ly ?an o!rs1 s t m "t mu/ be all[$ = ^!4 ,blue dyes v quickly & easily1 b mu/ be giv5 "t to set 9 ! fib] to become ?or\ghly p]man5t4 ,^! "t sugge/ions are = ! 8,bateeko ,dyes0 9 p[d] =m4 ,!re is also a great diff]5ce 9 mat]ials us$1 z to ! rapidity ) :i* !y w absorb ! dye4 ,wool & silk absorb ! dye easily & quickly1 cotton1 l95 & hemp mu* m sl[ly4 ,!re=e1 ! "t all[$ = dye+ mu/ be increas$ to get deep colors 9 cotton1 l95 & hemp4 ,! clos5ess ( ! weave & ! h>dness ( ! twill mu/ also be consid]$4 ,a v loose por\s silk or cotton crepe w dye 9 a few m9utes1 :ile a firm musl9 w require p]haps half an h\r to an h\r to produce a /rong fa/ color4 ,! mat]ial %\ld be free f />* or siz+ ( any k9d be=e x is put into ! dye4 ,aft] ! goods has be5 /irr$ 9 ! ba? = five to t5 m9utes1 m dye c be add$ if necess>y4 ,be sure to remove ! mat]ial f ! dye ba? be=e add+ m dye4 ,z color always seems d>k] :5 x is wet1 x is difficult to tell exactly :5 y h z deep a color z y desire1 b hold+ ! mat]ial up to ! light gives a fairly good idea ( ! way ! color w look :5 dry4 ,to get a deep %ade ( a special color x is always bett] to "w up to ! color desir$ by /eps1 t is1 to dye a light tone ( ! color desir$1 exam9e ?is & if x is ! desir$ %ade cont9ue until ! desir$ dep? ( color is rea*$4 ,aft] dye+1 r9se ?or\ghly 9 cold wat]1 dra9 ! wat] out on an old t[el or %eet & hang x on a wax$ l9e or cord to dry4 ,x is be/ to wax ! l9e s t ! l9e does n te> (f ! wax on ! clo? :]e x is p9n$ up4 ,! rema9+ problem ( dye+ is ! mo/ int]e/+ ( all1 viz43 ! effect ( "o dye on ano!r1 & ( dye+ "o color ov] or on top ( ! prec$+ color4 ,9 ?is 8top dye+10 we mu/ rememb] t ! f9al color w be ! comb9ation ( ! color already on ! mat]ial & ! dye color :i* is be+ add$4 ,if we h a brilliant yell[ sc>f1 we _c dye x a blue unless 9 "s way we c remove ! yell[1 b we c dye x any color ( :i* yell[ =ms a "p1 su* z orange1 orange r$1 mahogany1 gre5 ( all k9ds1 br[ns1 greys1 & black4 ,all ^! colors conta9 yell[ & c be dy$ ov] yell[ by add+ ! o!r colors :i* make ! desir$ comb9ation4 ,a pale yell[ c be neutraliz$ by dye+ ) weak mag5ta & !n dye+ blue4 ,illu/ration3 ,a ,w9d[ ,curta9 decorat$ 9 ,batik4 ,design$ & execut$ by soldi]s 9 ! ,comm]cial ,art ,class at ,u4 ,s4 ,g5]al ,hospital ,no4 #b1 "u ! direction ( ,lieut5ant ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ,illu/ration3 ,javanese ,batiks4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,= in/ance1 to make a m$ium grey gre5 ov] a yell[1 bo? blue & r$ mu/ be add$1 ! blue mak+ gre5 :5 dy$ ov] yell[ & a little r$ mak+ ! color grey4 ,9 dye+ a /rong color ov] a weak & greyi% color ! orig9al color w seem to h v little effect4 ,! am\nt ( ea* color us$ dep5ds ^u ! result desir$4 ,!re=e1 analyze ! color y wi% to produce4 ,decide :at proportion ( ea* color !re seems to be 9 ! %ade desir$1 & mix ! dyes accord+ly4 ,dye ! light colors fir/1 & ! d>ke/ la/4 ,rememb] a color may be d>k5$ or modifi$1 b _c be light5$1 except by remov+ ! dye ) ammonia or wa%+ soda4 ,9 dye+ = ,batik1 ! safe ?+ is1 ( c\rse1 to dep5d ^u sev]al weak dye ba?s ( r cle> colors1 z !re is dang] ( produc+ too grey & muddy a color if /rong ba?s are us$ be=e !re is a good und]/&+ ( ! result ( ! color comb9ations4 ,if at all unc]ta9 ( ! result ( a color comb9ation1 dye a piece z a trial fir/4 ,9 dye+1 to secure a r$ & gre5 9 ! same piece1 ! colors ( ! 8blue gr\p0 discuss$ 9 ! previ\s *apt] %\ld be dy$ fir/ entirely4 ,!n ) wa%+ soda or ammonia ! color on ! spots :]e ! r$ gr\p ( colors is desir$ c be remov$4 ,?is blea*+ process _h bett] be res]v$ = advanc$ "w1 & 9 ! beg9n+ /ages color comb9ations n requir+ x %\ld be us$4 ,! soda & ammonia bo? affect ! wax & aft] us+ !m ! wax+ %\ld be look$ ov] c>efully & ragg$ edges re-wax$4 ,:5 a small spot ( a contra/+ color is want$ on su* a place z ! w+s ( ! bird on ! velvet bag on page #db1 ! me?od ( remov+ ! color by ammonia is ! "o to use4 ,) ?9 silk ! wax c be s entirely remov$ ) a hot iron & pap]s t a piece c be re-wax$ = contra/+ colors4 ,) heavy clo? or velvet1 ! wax c\ld n be s completely remov$ by ?is me?od t ! next dye+ w\ld be satisfactory4 ,gasol9e is ! be/ me?od ( remov+ ! wax 9 su* a case4 ,e p>ticle mu/ be remov$ 9 ord] to h ! next dye ba? satisfactory4 ,= t reason x is be/ to remove all ! wax possible 9 ! fir/ gasol9e ba? & r9se 9 clean gasol9e be=e dye+ aga94 ,9 dye+ textiles 9 l>ge quantities ) ! 8,bateeko0 ,p[d] ,dyes z is requir$ = co/umes1 drap]ies1 etc41 ! directions z to size ( receptacle1 "t ( dye+1 /irr+1 etc41 are ! same z = small] "w4 ,:ile ^! dyes are v rapid 9 _! action :5 us$ 9 only tepid wat]1 !y are naturally /ill m rapid :5 us$ hot4 ,! us]1 !re=e1 has ! *oice ( ! hot or cold process1 accord+ to h] conv5i5ce4 ,if ! dye is us$ hot ! mat]ial mu/ be /irr$ con/antly4 ,if us$ 9 tepid wat] x mu/ be kept 9 motion only suffici5tly to keep ! color f settl+ 9 ! folds & mak+ d>k spots or /reaks4 ,always r9se out all ! loose color ?or\ghly 9 cold wat] be=e hang+ up to dry4 ,hang ! pieces s !y d n t\* any?+4 ,illu/ration3 ,a section f a ,javanese ,batik f ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,an all-ov] design 9 ,batik t 0 practically improvis$ z ! "w 0 done4 ,by ,jean ,paul ,sluss] ,if work+ con/antly ) dyes1 rubb] gloves are a conv5i5ce4 ,h[ev]1 ev5 ) gloves "o sometimes /a9s ! h&s4 ,ammonia or wa%+ soda w help remove ! /a94 ,practically any conta9] t is l>ge en\gh c be us$4 ,! be/ is p]haps a copp] tub2 enamel w>e is excell5t4 ,wood5 tubs are us$ by pr(essional dy]s some:at4 ,galvaniz$ iron is all "r1 unless ! dye conta9+ acid /ays 9 x s long t ! acid affects ! iron4 ,illu/ration3 ,ti$ & dy$ patt]n done 9 /ripes ,illu/ration3 ,a ,sc>f %[+ application ( conc5tric circles4 ,design$ by ,hel5 ,r4 ,re$ ,illu/ration3 ,a patt]n f a ,javanese ,batik4 ,c\rtesy ( ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,n4 ,y4 ,illu/ration3 ,an ,indian ,s>ee4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,n4 ,y4 ,illu/ration3 ,a patt]n f a ,javanese ,batik4 ,c\rtesy ( ! ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,new ,york ,illu/ration3 ,a patt]n f a ,javanese ,batik4 ,c\rtesy ( ,metropolitan ,museum1 ,n4 ,y4 ,illu/ration3 ,batik ,sc>f4 ,design$ & execut$ by ,miss ,robic*eck4 ,c\rtesy ( ,academy ,art ,%op ,illu/ration3 ,batik ,sc>f4 ,design$ & execut$ by ,conrad ,kram]4 ,c\rtesy ( ,academy ,art ,%op ,illu/ration3 ,a ,javanese ,batik patt]n4 ,c\rtesy ( ,adelaide ,a4 ,rob9eau ,illu/ration3 ,a mod]n ,batik wall hang+ ,,prang 8,,qu>to ,,art ,,books0 8,,! ,,!ory ,,& ,,practice ,,( ,,color0 ,by ,,bonnie ,e4 ,,sn[ & ,,hugo ,b4 ,,froehli* ,! mo/ au?oritative "w on 8,color0 issu$ 9 ?is c\ntry4 ,illu/rat$ ) h&-pa9t$ 8,color ,*>ts0 ( great value4 ,l>ge qu>to1 price1 #d4jj2 by mail1 #d4be4 8,,art ,,simplifi$0 7,revis$ ,edition7 ,by ,,p$ro ,j4 ,,lemos & ,,john ,t4 ,,lemos ,a book ( practical in/ruction 9 ,art = adv]tis]s1 comm]cial arti/s1 tea*]s & /ud5ts4 ,tw5ty-two full-page plates1 #age pages4 ,price1 #d4jj2 by mail1 #d4be4 8,,lett]+0 ,by ,,?omas ,,wood ,,/ev5s1 ( ,c>negie ,in/itute1 ,pittsburgh ,! /&>d "w on ! subject = /ud5ts & arti/s4 ,"o hundr$ t5 full-page plates4 ,l>ge qu>to1 price #c4jj2 by mail1 #c4be4 8,,c>tooni/',s ,,art0 ,by ,j4 ,,campbell ,,cory ,! secret ( ! art told by a successful c>tooni/1 ) _m examples ( ! 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