,,the ,,greedy ,,book 8,how admirable and beautiful are eating and drinking1 and what a great invention the human digestive system is6 ,how much better to be a man than an alligator6 ,the alligator can fast for a year and a half1 whereas five hours' abstinence will set an edge on the most pampered human appetite4 ,nature has advanced a little since ,mesozoic times4 ,i feel certain that there are whole ,south ,seas of discovery yet to be made in the art and science of eating and drinking40 ,,john ,,davidson ,illustration3 ,,les ,,sens3 ,,par ,,bertall ,frontispiece ,,the ,,greedy ,,book ,a ,,gastronomical ,,anthology ,,by ,,frank ,,schloesser ,,author ,,of 8,,the ,,cult ,,of ,,the ,,chafing ,,dish0 ,illustration ,,london ,,gay ,,and ,,bird #ab #ac ,,henrietta ,,street1 ,,strand #aijf ,all rights reserved ,to ,,the ,,ideal ,,waiter ,they also serve who only stand and wait ,milton's ,sonnet 8,on his ,blindness0 ,,contents ,,chap4 ,,page ,i4 ,cooks and ,cookery #a ,,ii4 ,byways of ,gastronomy #bj ,,iii4 ,the ,poet in the ,kitchen #da ,,iv4 ,the ,salad in ,literature #fb ,v4 ,mrs4 ,glasse and her ,hare #ha ,,vi4 ,menus #aab ,,vii4 ,oysters #aff ,,viii4 ,waiters and ,snails #ahi ,,ix4 ,dishes of ,history #bbj ,x4 ,lenten ,fare #bdb ,,list ,,of ,,plates ,les ,sens ,frontispiece ,les ,aliments ,to face page #cj ,les ,audiences d'un ,gourmand 0 #hi ,les ,rves d'un ,gourmand 0 #ace ,des ,magens ,vertheidigung der edlen ,austern 0 #agh ,les ,boissons 0 #aid ,my thanks are due to the ,editors of the ,st4 ,james's ,gazette1 the ,evening ,standard1 the ,academy1 the ,daily ,mail1 the ,daily ,express1 the ,globe1 the ,tribune1 and ,vanity ,fair for permission to reproduce certain portions of these papers4 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,i ,,cooks ,,and ,,cookery 8,in short the world is but a ,ragou1 or a large dish of ,varieties1 prepared by inevitable ,fate to treat and regale ,death with40 #8,miscellanies3 or a ,variety of ,notion and ,thought4' ,by ,h4 ,w4 7,gent47 ,henry ,waring #agjh4 ,the only thing that can be said against eating is that it takes away one's appetite4 ,true1 there is a ,french proverb to the contrary1 but that really only applies to the hors d'uvre and the soup4 ,we all eat three meals a day1 some four1 and a few even five1 if one may reckon afternoon tea as a meal4 ,yet the art of eating--that is to say1 how to eat1 what to eat1 and when to eat it--is studiously neglected by those who deem they have souls superior to the daily stoking of the human engine4 ,whosoever simply wants to eat certainly does not require to know how to cook4 ,but whosoever desires to criticize a dinner and the dishes that compose it--and enjoyment without judgment is unsatisfactory--need not be a cook1 but must understand what cooking implies2 he must have grasped the spirit of the art of cookery4 ,cooks themselves almost always judge a dinner too partially1 and from the wrong point of view2 they are1 almost without exception1 obstinately of the opinion that everything they cook must taste equally good to everybody4 ,this is obviously absurd 7but so like a cook71 for allowance must be made for the personal equation4 ,nothing tastes so good as what one eats oneself1 so it is not to be expected that one and the same dish will please even the most fastidious octette4 ,still there have been occasional instances4 ,the late ,sir ,henry ,thompson once had a new cook1 and1 in an interview with her after the first dinner-party1 she expressed herself as being delighted that everything had been so satisfactory4 8,but how do you know it was80 asked ,sir ,henry4 8,i've not given you my opinion yet40 8,no1 ,sir ,henry10 said the cook1 8but ,i know it was all right1 because none of the salt-cellars were touched40 ,it is a mistaken idea that a man-cook can be a cordon-bleu4 ,that title of high distinction is reserved for the feminine sex4 ,according to ,lady ,morgan 7,sidney ,owenson1 #ahda71 in her 8,book without a ,name10 a cordon-bleu is defined as an honorary distinction conferred on the first class of female cooks in ,paris1 either in allusion to their blue aprons1 or to the order whose blue ribbon was so long considered as the adequate recompense of all the highest merit in the highest classes4 ,the ,fermier ,gnral who built the palace of the ,elyse became not more celebrated for his exquisite dinners than for the moral courage with which he attributed their excellence to his female cook1 ,marie1 when such a chef was hardly known in a ,french kitchen2 for when ,marie served up un petit diner dlirant she was called for like other prime donne1 and her health drunk by the style of ,le ,cordon ,bleu4 ,one of the most famous of the bearers of the title was undoubtedly that wonderful ,sophie who is so charmingly described in ,la ,salle--manger du ,docteur ,vron4 ,she was cook and politician too1 and even ,alexandre ,dumas pre did not disdain to dine with her at a dinner of her own cooking2 and moreover eminent statesmen of the period consulted her about politics1 her clear-headed simplicity and wide experience of popular sentiment rendering her opinions of considerable value4 ,the editor adds that her name was not ,sophie1 but that her many friends will nevertheless easily recognize her4 ,the value of a good chef in a well-ordered household cannot be over-estimated4 ,his tact1 his experience1 and his art go far to make life pleasant and easy4 ,moreover1 a good cook is a direct aid to good health1 for he uses none but the best materials1 and1 if he be of the highest rank of his order1 knows just how to assimilate those suave and subtle suggestions and flavourings which go so far to make cookery such as the great ,careme 7#ahbh7 called le genre mle et lgant4 ,cooks were held in the highest estimation in ,venice in the sixteenth century4 ,here is the beginning of a letter from one ,allessandro ,vacchi1 a ,venetian citizen1 to an acquaintance of his1 a cook and carver by profession3 8,al magnifico ,signor ,padron mio osservandissimo il ,signor ,matteo ,barbini1 ,cuco e ,scalco celeberrimo della citt di ,venetia40 ,in our own time honour to the profession is not lacking1 for a little while ago the ,king decorated ,m4 ,mnager1 his matre-chef1 with the ,royal ,victorian ,medal4 ,at the same time the competition of many rich folk for the services of some of the best-known chefs has made these artists1 in some cases at least1 place an extortionate value upon their ministrations4 ,a very clever chef1 reliable in everything except his sauces1 in which he is slightly heterodox1 was recently engaged by a nouveau riche at a salary far exceeding that which he paid to his private secretary4 ,in one of ,matthew ,bramble's letters from ,bath 78,humphry ,clinker07 he refers to such a one as 8a mushroom of opulence1 who pays a cook seventy guineas a week for furnishing him with one meal a day40 ,mushroom of opulence is good4 ,that species of fungus is always with us4 ,dr4 ,kitchiner in his 8,housekeeper's ,oracle0 7#ahbi7 quotes from 8,the ,plebeian ,polished1 or ,rules for ,persons who have unaccountably plunged themselves into ,wealth40 ,a work of this nature1 if published nowadays1 should surely command a large sale1 for the number of people who have 8unaccountably plunged themselves into ,wealth0 seems to be multiplying rapidly4 ,most of them know how to feed4 ,few of them seem to have mastered the mystery of how to dine4 8,man ist was man isst0 says the ,german proverb1 and there is no valid reason for spending fabulous sums on a dinner of out-of-the-season delicacies1 when the good reasonable and seasonable things of this earth are ready and ripe for consumption4 ,at the same time1 meanness has nothing to recommend it4 ,there is no credit in starving yourself or your guests4 ,the difference between mere parsimony and economy has never been more deftly illustrated than in those pregnant sentences from ,edmund ,burke3 8,mere parsimony is not economy4 ,expense1 and great expense1 may be an essential article in home economy4 ,economy is a distributive virtue1 and consists1 not in saving1 but selection4 ,parsimony requires no providence1 no sagacity1 no powers of combination1 no comparison1 no judgment4 ,mere instinct1 and that not an instinct of the noblest kind1 may produce this false economy in perfection40 ,this is very solid wisdom1 because it bears in mind the great element of perspective in expense1 which is so often forgotten or overlooked4 ,to revert to the preciousness and rarity of the really good female cook1 to the artist in pots and pans4 ,it was in #ahcc that the ,prince de ,ligne1 who had just lost his second wife1 came to ,paris to seek consolation4 ,he lived temporarily in the ,rue ,richelieu4 ,one evening in passing the lodge he became aware of a peculiarly alluring odour of cooking4 ,he saw the concierge1 an old woman of sixty1 bending eagerly over a battered stewpan on a small charcoal fire1 stirring some mess which evidently was exhaling this delicious odour4 ,the ,prince was one of the affable kind4 ,he asked the poor old lady for a taste of her dish1 which he liked so much that he gave her a double louis1 and asked her how it happened that with such eminent culinary genius she was reduced to the porter's lodge4 ,she told him that she had once been head cook to a cardinal-archbishop4 ,she had married a bad man who had spent all her savings4 ,although very poor1 she added with conscious pride1 and no longer disposing of the full batterie of an archiepiscopal kitchen1 she flattered herself she could manage with a few bits of charcoal and a mchante casserole to cook with the best of them4 ,next day the lodge was vacant1 the old concierge being on her way to ,belil1 the ,prince de ,ligne's residence1 near ,mons1 in ,belgium1 where she presided for fifteen years over one of the best-appointed kitchens in the world4 ,less fortunate than the ,prince de ,ligne was a middle-aged bachelor in ,paris1 a few years ago1 who gave away an odd lottery ticket to his cook1 a worthy and unprepossessing spinster4 ,shortly afterwards1 to his amazement1 he saw that this particular ticket had drawn the gros lot4 ,he could not afford to part with such a valuable and valued servant1 so he proposed marriage1 was accepted1 and duly became one with his cook before the maire with as little delay as possible4 ,directly after the marriage he asked his wife for the lottery ticket4 8,oh1 ,i gave that away10 she said1 8to ,jean1 the coachman1 to compensate him for our broken engagement40 ,it has been the ambition of many highly placed men to become cooks4 ,according to ,miss ,hill's interesting book on ,juniper ,hall1 and its colony of refugees1 ,m4 de ,jaucourt is recorded to have said3 8,it seems to me that ,i have something of a vocation for cookery4 ,i will take up that business4 ,do you know what our cook said to me this morning8 ,he had been consulting me respecting his risking the danger of a return to ,france4 #8,but you know1 monsieur1' he said1 #8an exception is made in favour of all artists4' #8,very well then1' concluded ,m4 de ,jaucourt1 #8,i will be an artist-cook also4'0 ,a notable instance of the chef who took a pride in his art and could not understand any one referring to him as 8a mere cook0 is the delightful hero of ,mr4 ,h4 ,g4 ,wells's story of 8,a ,misunderstood ,artist0 in his 8,select ,conversations with an ,uncle40 8,they are always trying to pull me to earth4 #8,is it wholesome8' they say2--#8,nutritious8' ,i say to them3 #8,i do not know4 ,i am an artist4 ,i do not care4 ,it is beautiful4'--#8,you rhyme8' said the ,poet4 #8,no4 ,my work is--more plastic4 ,i cook4'0 ,there was a famous cook too1 ,laurens by name1 who was chef for a long time to ,george ,,iii1 and who combined with his culinary skill a wonderful flair for objects of art1 so that the ,king bought a large number of the beautiful things which are even now at ,buckingham ,palace and ,windsor ,castle on the advice of this same ,laurens4 ,it has been said of him that he rarely made a mistake in buying1 and that he attended the principal picture and art sales on the ,continent on behalf of his royal master4 ,some cheerful noodles have had much to say anent the want of imagination of the modern chef4 ,this is the most arrant blatherumskite4 ,the chef1 who is only1 after all1 a superior servant1 paid 7and well1 too7 to carry out the gastronomic ideas of his master1 or1 if he lack such ideas1 to pander to his ignorance1 too frequently arrogates to himself a culinary wisdom which is not justified by results4 ,the chef need only be a thoroughly good cook4 ,the ideas1 the suggestions1 the genius behind the pots and pans1 come from the gastronomic student4 ,neither ,brillat-,savarin nor ,grimod de la ,reynire was a cook--nor was ,thomas ,walker1 ,g4 ,a4 ,sala1 or ,e4 ,s4 ,dallas1 but they were all notable authorities4 ,and they inspired the culinary art of their times by their knowledge1 invention1 and discrimination4 ,as a matter of fact1 our chefs are unimaginative--and a good job too2 because when a chef1 be he never so clever1 begins to launch out on novelties of his own invention1 he almost invariably comes to grief4 ,a really good matre d'htel may occasionally suggest a new dish1 but in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred it is merely a slight variation of something perfectly well known and appreciated4 ,there may be a new garnishing1 a trifling alteration in the manner of serving1 and there is invariably a brand-new 7and usually inappropriate7 name1 but the dish remains practically the same1 despite its new christening-robe4 ,a fine joint of ,southdown mutton has been recently renamed ,bhague1 but it remains sheep1 and nothing is gained by the alteration save a further insight into the ignorance of the average chef4 ,this is only a simple example1 but it might be multiplied indefinitely4 ,i have been served at a well-known restaurant with cutlets la ,trianon1 which turned out to be our old and tried friend cutlets la ,rforme under a new title4 ,in a like manner1 but at another restaurant1 an ordinary and excellent mousse de jambon paraded as jambon la ,vfour2 ,heavens and the chef only know why2 and the one won't tell1 and the other doesn't know4 ,bhague1 by the way1 is1 so to say1 chefs' ,french1 which has much in common with dog ,latin1 if one may be allowed the comparison4 ,bhague will not be found in a ,french dictionary1 but it is the new nom de cuisine for fine-quality mutton 7such as ,southdown72 it has only lately come into use1 and there seems no particular reason for it4 ,probably it was invented in 8a moment of enthusiasm10 as the barber-artist remarked when he made a wig that just fitted a hazel-nut4 ,there are several different kinds of bad language4 ,that used by chefs and matres d'htel on their menus is one of the worst4 ,they are incorrigibly ignorant--and glory in it4 ,it is an undeniable fact that the average menu1 whether at a club or restaurant1 contains usually at least a brace of orthographic howlers1 while at the private house1 an it boast a chef who writes the dinner programmes1 the average is distinctly higher4 ,i have encountered on an otherwise quite reputable card the extraordinary item ,soufflet de fromage4 ,the kind hostess had no intention of inflicting a box on the ears to the cheese1 but had mistaken soufflet for souffl4 ,by such obvious errors are social friendships imperilled4 ,but ,i should like to go much further than this comparatively harmless example4 ,no less an authority than neas ,dallas in ,kettner's 8,book of the ,table0 says3 8,it is a simple fact1 of which ,i undertake to produce overwhelming evidence1 that the language of the kitchen is a language #8not understanded of the people4' ,there are scores upon scores of its terms in daily use which are little understood and not at all fixed1 and there is not upon the face of this earth an occupation which is carried on with so much of unintelligible jargon and chattering of apes as that of preparing food4 ,not only cooks1 but also the most learned men in ,france have given up a great part of the language of the kitchen as beyond all comprehension4 ,we sorely want ,cadmus amongst the cooks4 ,all the world remembers that he taught the ,greeks their alphabet4 ,it is well-nigh forgotten that he was cook to the ,king of ,sidon4 ,i cannot help thinking that cooks would do well to combine with their cookery1 like ,cadmus1 a little attention to the alphabet40 ,it is easy1 of course1 to ridicule such obvious ineptitudes as a dish of 8breeches in the ,royal fashion with velvet sauce0 7,culotte la ,royale sauce velout7 or 8capons' wings in the sun0 7ailes de poularde au soleil71 but these are but trifling offences compared to the egregious lapses of grammar1 history1 and good taste which disfigure our menus4 ,there is no culinary merit in describing an otherwise harmless dish of salmon as saumon ,libert au ,triomphe d',amour4 ,it is simply gross and vulgar affectation4 ,let the cooks do their cooking properly and all will be well4 ,their weirdly esoteric naming of edible food is an insult of supererogation to the intelligence of the diner4 ,at the same time1 due credit must be given to the chef for the part he has played in the general improvement of gastronomics and the art of feeding during the past two decades4 ,the mere multiplication of restaurants is nothing2 but the general improvement of the average menu is everything4 ,here1 for instance1 is the menu of a dinner of the year #ahgf1 recommended by no less an authority than the late ,fin ,bec1 ,blanchard ,jerrold1 whose ,epicure's ,year ,books1 ,cupboard ,papers1 and ,book of ,menus are by way of being classics4 ,,menu4 ,crcy aux ,crotons4 ,printannier4 ,saumon bouilli1 sauce homard4 ,filets de soles la ,joinville4 ,whitebait4 ,suprme de ,volaille l'carlate4 ,ctelettes d',agneau aux concombres4 ,cailles en aspic4 ,selle de ,mouton4 ,bacon and beans4 ,caneton4 ,baba au ,rhum4 ,pouding glac4 ,this was the dinner given by the late ,edmund ,yates on the occasion of the publication of the ,world newspaper4 ,observe its heaviness1 clumsiness1 and want of delicacy4 ,three fish dishes are ostentatious and redundant2 three entres simply kill one another2 the quails are misplaced before the saddle2 the bacon and beans is1 of course1 a joke4 ,altogether it is what we should call to-day a somewhat barbarian meal4 ,contrast therewith the following artistically fashioned programme of a dinner given by the ,runion des ,gastronomes2 it is practically le dernier mot of the culinary art4 ,,menu4 ,hutres ,royales ,natives4 ,tortue ,claire4 ,filets de ,soles des ,gastronomes4 ,suprme de ,poularde ,trianon4 ,noisettes d',agneau la ,carme4 ,pommes ,nouvelles ,suzette4 ,sorbets la ,palermitaine4 ,bcassines la ,broche4 ,salade4 ,haricots ,verts ,nouveaux la ,crme4 ,biscuit ,glac ,mireille4 ,corbeille de ,friandises4 ,dessert4 ,nothing could be lighter or more graceful4 ,there is naught that is over-elaborate or indigestible2 on the contrary1 the various flavours are carefully preserved1 and there is a subtle completeness about the whole dinner which is very pleasing4 ,it was the late lamented ,joseph1 of the ,tour d',argent1 the ,savoy1 and elsewhere1 who once said3 8,make the good things as plain as possible4 ,god gave a special flavour to everything4 ,respect it4 ,do not destroy it by messing40 ,joseph1 who1 by the way1 was born in ,birmingham1 was a mitre d'htel of genius1 though even he had his little weaknesses1 and merely to watch the play of his wrists whilst he was 8fatiguing0 a salad for an especially favoured guest was a lesson in inspired enthusiasm4 ,his rebuke to a rich ,american in ,paris is historic4 ,the man of dollars had ordered an elaborate djeuner1 and whilst toying with the hors-d'uvre carefully tucked his serviette into his collar and spread it over his waistcoat1 as is the way with some careless feeders4 ,joseph1 rightly enough1 resented this want of manners1 and1 approaching the guest1 said to him politely1 8,monsieur1 ,i understand1 wished to have djeuner1 not to be shaved40 ,the restaurant lost that ,american's custom1 but gained that of a host of nice and delicate feeders4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,byways ,,of ,,gastronomy 8,la ,cuisine n'est pas un mtier1 c'est un art1 et c'est toujours une bonne fortune que la conversation d'un cuisinier3 mieux vaut causer avec un cuisinier qu'avec un pharmacien4 ,s'il n'y avait que de bons cuisiniers1 les pharmaciens auraient peu de choses faire1 les mdecins disparatraient2 on ne garderait que les chirugiens pour les fractures40--,,nestor ,,roqueplan4 ,i am going to be very rude4 ,not one woman in a hundred can order a dinner at a restaurant4 ,i've tried them1 and ,i know4 ,not only can she not order a dinner with taste1 discretion1 and due appreciation of season1 surroundings1 and occasion2 but she inevitably shows her character1 or want of it1 if she be allowed to choose the menu4 ,the eternal feminine peeps out in the soup1 lurks designedly in the entres1 and comes into the full glare of the electric light in the sweets and liqueurs4 ,let me explain4 ,as a bachelor who is lucky enough to be asked out to many dinner parties1 ,i have cultivated a slight reciprocative hospitality in the shape of asking my hostesses 7and their daughters1 if they have any7 to dine with me at sundry restaurants4 ,it is my habit to beg my guests to order the dinner1 8because a woman knows so much more about these things than a mere man02 and all unwittingly the dear ladies invariably fall into the innocent little trap1 wrinkle up their foreheads and study the carte1 while ,i sit tight and study character4 ,luckily my digestion is excellent4 ,i have survived several seasons of this sort of thing1 but ,i feel that the time is coming when ,i must really give it up and order the dinners myself4 ,the wife of a very important lawyer was good enough to dine with me at the ,savoy recently4 ,she is1 ,i believe1 a thoroughly good wife and mother1 and1 moreover1 she has a happy knack of humorous small talk4 ,she graciously agreed to order our dinner--after the usual formula4 ,the crme sant was all right--homely and healthy1 if a trifle dull and uninteresting2 but when we went on to boiled sole1 mutton cutlets1 and a rice pudding1 ,i felt that the sweet simplicity of the ,jane ,austen cuisine was too much with us1 and ,i recognized sadly that she was not imbued with the spirit of place2 she mistook the ,savoy for the schoolroom4 ,her forte was evidently decorous domesticity4 ,nevertheless1 ,i had a good dinner4 ,less fortunate was ,i in my experience with the eldest daughter of a celebrated painter4 ,she was all for colour4 8,there is not enough colour in our drab ,london life10 she said2 so1 at the ,carlton1 she ordered ,bortsch1 because it was so pretty and pink2 fish la ,cardinal1 because of the tomatoes2 cutlets la ,rforme1 because she liked the many-coloured 8baby-ribbons0 of garnishing2 spinach and poached eggs--8the contrast of colour is so daring1 you know02 beetroot salad2 a peach la ,melba--8so artistic and musical02 and1 of course1 crme de menthe to accompany the coffee4 ,it was a feast--of colour--and the food was thoroughly well cooked2 but ,i was reminded of ,thackeray's chef1 ,m4 ,mirabolant1 who conceived a white dinner for ,blanche ,amory to typify her virginal soul4 ,then there was an amiable and affected widow1 whose mitigated woe and black voile frock were most becoming4 ,she presumed1 however1 on her widowhood to order everything en demi-deuil1 which meant that every dish from fish to bird was decorated with mourning bands of truffles4 ,the thoughtful chef sent up the ice in the form of a headstone1 and we refrained from ,turkish coffee because ,french caf noir was so much blacker4 ,the great ,brillat-,savarin1 speaking of female gourmets1 said1 8,they are plump and pretty rather than handsome1 with a tendency to embonpoint40 ,i confess that my experience leads me to disagree2 the real female gourmet 7alas1 that she should be so rare671 broad-minded1 unprejudiced1 and knowledgeable1 is handsome rather than pretty1 thin rather than stout1 and silent rather than talkative4 ,this1 however1 by the way4 ,two schoolgirls did me the honour of dining with me at ,prince's not long ago1 before going to the play4 ,i gave them carte blanche to order what they liked1 and this was the extraordinary result3-- ,langouste en aspic4 ,meringues ,chantilly4 ,consomm la neige de ,florence4 ,selle de ,chevreuil4 ,gele ,macdoine4 ,faisan en plumage4 ,bombe en surprise4 ,nid de ,pommes ,dauphine4 ,i ventured to suggest that there was a certain amount of fine confused feeding about this programme1 that it was so heavy that even two hungry schoolgirls and a middle-aged bachelor might find it difficult to tackle1 also that the sequence of dishes was not quite conventional4 ,eventually they blushingly explained that they had ordered all these things because they did not know what any of them meant1 and they wanted to find out--8besides1 they've got such pretty names1 and it will help us so much in our ,french lessons40 ,i reduced the formidable dimensions of the dinner1 and there were no disastrous results4 ,i once had the temerity to invite a real lady journalist to dine with me at the ,berkeley4 ,i think that she writes as ,aunt ,sophonisba1 or something of the sort1 and her speciality is the soothing of fluttering hearts and the explaining of the niceties of suburban etiquette4 ,anyhow1 she knows nothing about cookery1 although ,i understand she conducts a weekly column entitled 8,dainty ,dishes for ,delicate ,digestions40 ,it was in ,july1 and she said we might begin with oysters and then have a partridge4 ,when ,i explained that owing to official carelessness these cates happened to be out of season1 she waxed indignant and said that she thought 8they were what the ,french call primeurs40 ,nevertheless1 she made a remarkably good hot-weather dinner1 eating right through the menu1 from the melon rfraichie to the petits fours4 ,women who golf1 lady journalists1 and widows1 ,i observe1 have usually remarkably good appetites4 ,i recollect also an ,american actress who sang coon songs--and yearned for culture4 ,we lunched at the ,cecil1 and when she espied on the card eggs la ,meyerbeer1 she instantly demanded them because 8he was a composer way back about the year dot1 and ,i just love his music to #8,carmen4'0 ,she hunted through the menu for celebrated names1 preferably historical1 and ordered successively ,sole la ,colbert1 ,poulet ,henri ,quatre1 and ,nesselrode pudding1 because they reminded her of the time when she was studying ,french history4 ,with the keenest desire not to be thought disrespectful or ungallant1 ,i really believe that1 however well a woman may manage her household1 her cook1 her husband1 and her kitchen expenses1 she cannot order a dinner at a restaurant4 ,whether it be the plethora of choice1 or the excitement of the lights and music1 or awe of the matre d'htel and the sommelier1 ,i do not know1 but ,i am sure that the good hostess who gives you a very eatable little dinner at her own house will make hash of the best restaurant carte du jour in her endeavours to order what she thinks is nice and appropriate4 ,in referring just now to the excellent ,miss ,jane ,austen1 ,i am reminded that eating and drinking play no small part in her delightful novels4 ,who does not remember ,mrs4 ,bennet1 who dared not invite ,bingley to an important dinner1 8for although she always kept a good table1 she did not think anything less than two courses could be good enough for a man on whom she had such anxious designs1 or satisfy the appetite and pride of one who had ten thousand a year40 ,the dinner eventually served consisted of soup1 venison1 partridges1 and an unnamed pudding4 ,and a very good meal too6 ,an ,american critic is of opinion that there is a surfeit of mutton in ,english literature4 8,it is boiled mutton usually1 too40 ,now boiled mutton is1 to the critic1 a poor sort of dish1 unsuggestive1 boldly and flagrantly nourishing1 a most ,british thing1 which 8will never gain a foothold on the ,american stomach40 ,this last is a vile phrase1 even for an ,american critic1 and suggests a wrestling match4 ,the critic goes on3 8,the ,austenite must e'en eat it4 ,roast mutton is a different thing4 ,you might know ,emma ,woodhouse would have roast mutton rather than boiled2 it is to roast mutton and rice pudding that the little ,kneightleys go scampering home through the wintry weather40 ,from ,miss ,austen to ,mrs4 ,gaskell is no such very far cry4 8,we had pudding before meat in my day10 says ,mr4 ,holbrook1 the old-fashioned bachelor-yeoman in 8,cranford40 8,when ,i was a young man we used to keep strictly to my father's rule3 #8,no broth1 no ball2 no ball1 no beef4' ,we always began dinner with both1 then came the suet puddings boiled in the broth with the beef2 and then the meat itself4 ,if we did not sup our broth1 we had no ball1 which we liked a deal better1 and the beef came last of all4 ,now folks begin with sweet things1 and turn their dinners topsy-turvy40 ,what would such a one have said to our modern dinners1 at home1 or at a restaurant2 a place which he probably would not comprehend at all1 for1 at any rate with us1 the fashion of dining in public1 especially with our women-folk1 is a very recent innovation4 ,the hearty individual of ,mr4 ,holbrook's time and type would have more sympathy with the frugalities of the ,la ,manchan gentleman ,cervantes drew1 with his lean horse and running greyhound1 courageous ferret1 and meals of 8duelos y quebrantes10 that strange dish1 which ,mr4 ,cunninghame ,graham tells us 8perplexed every translator of the immortal work40 ,the modern restaurant is1 ,i suppose1 part and parcel of the evolutionary trend of the times4 ,it has its advantages and its drawbacks4 ,its influence on public manners or manners in public 7which are not altogether the same thing71 are not entirely salutary4 ,he was a wise person who once said1 8,vulgarity1 after all1 is only the behaviour of others40 ,go into any frequented restaurant at dinner-time1 watch the men and women 7especially the latter71 how they eat1 talk1 and observe their neighbours--et vous m'en direz des nouvelles6 ,our forbears1 although1 or perhaps because1 they dined out less1 or not at all1 had a certain reticence of table manner which has been lost in succeeding generations4 ,be good enough to note the reception of a party of guests entering a full restaurant and making their way to their reserved table4 ,notice how every feminine eye criticizes the new-comers4 ,not a bow1 nor a frill1 nor a sleeve1 nor a jewel1 nor a twist of chiffon is unobserved4 ,talk almost ceases whilst the progress through the already filled tables takes place4 ,the men of the party ask polite questions1 and endeavour to continue the even tenor of the conversation1 but the feminine replies are vague and malapropos4 ,no woman seems able to concentrate her attention on talk whilst other women are passing4 ,she must act the critic2 note1 observe1 copy1 or deride4 ,these are our table manners of to-day4 ,not entirely pretty1 perhaps2 but typical and noteworthy4 ,illustration3 ,,les ,,aliments3 ,,par ,,bertall ,to face page #cj ,the multiplication of restaurants continues1 and yet1 come to think of it1 the actual places where one lunches1 dines1 or sups1 the 8legitimate0 houses1 so to say1 can be numbered on the fingers of both hands--including the thumbs4 ,all the others are more or less esoteric4 ,one can1 possibly1 dine as well in ,soho as in the ,strand1 but there is no cachet about the dinner1 and one never meets any one one knows1 or if one does1 one wishes one hadn't4 ,still1 compared with our grandfathers' times1 things have vastly altered4 ,in the 8,epicure's ,almanack or ,calendar of ,good ,living for #ahae10 there is a list of over one hundred eating-houses of sorts1 but the only ones that survive to this day are ,birch's of ,cornhill2 the 8,blue ,posts0 in ,cork ,street2 the 8,cheshire ,cheese10 ,fleet ,street2 the 8,golden ,cross10 ,charing ,cross2 ,gunter's of ,berkeley ,square2 ,hatchett's in ,piccadilly2 the 8,hummums0 in ,covent ,garden2 ,long's in ,bond ,street 7better known as 8,jubber's072 the 8,ship10 ,charing ,cross2 the ,london ,tavern2 and 8,sweeting's ,rents40 ,speaking of the music at a very well-known restaurant in town1 a morning paper said recently3 8,it is noticeable that many of the visitors occasionally stop talking and listen to the music40 ,this set me thinking4 ,it is worth while listening to good music4 ,bad music we are better without4 ,good cooking and good conversation are natural concomitants1 and mutually assist one another4 ,ergo1 it seems obvious that good music and a good dinner are incompatible4 ,it is rude to talk whilst musical artists are giving of their best for your delectation1 and1 at the same time1 a dinner partaking of ,wordsworth's ,peter ,bell's party in a parlour 8all silent and all damned0 is contrary to the best gastronomic traditions4 ,thus ,i think ,i have the musical diner in an impasse4 ,speaking from memory1 among the best dozen restaurants in ,london there is music in every one save three2 ,i am therefore bound to conclude that it is merely a question of supply and demand1 and that ,i am in a minority4 ,i overheard a quaint protest the other night at a restaurant where the music is particularly loud1 blatant1 and objectionable4 ,a man and1 presumably1 his wife were dining together1 and were evidently anxious to keep up their conversation on some mutually interesting topic4 ,during a lull in the clatter and noise ,i heard the woman's voice say1 8,i do wish they would play more quietly1 one really cannot hear what one is eating40 ,oh6 the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england1 ,and oh6 the old ,english ,roast ,beef6 ,how many casual diners at the ,carlton could hum or whistle that fine old air8 ,probably not one--not even ,m4 ,jacques4 ,and yet it is about the only really appropriate and legitimate tune to which ,britons ought to feed4 ,what do we get instead8 ,musical-comedy selections1 languorous waltzes1 cornet solos1 coon songs1 and an occasional czardas4 ,is music really an aid to digestion1 or is it designed1 like the frills on the cutlets1 to induce us to ignore the imported mutton in favour of the trimmings8 ,it is tolerably certain that music with dinner 7at a restaurant1 for the ordinary diner7 was unknown in ,england before #ahge4 ,in the previous year the late ,george ,augustus ,sala1 who knew most things worth knowing--gastronomically--wrote an article in a monthly magazine on dinner music1 and refers to it as existing only in royal palaces4 ,very soon afterwards1 however1 it was offered to anybody who could afford to pay a few shillings for a set dinner amid clean and appetizing surroundings4 ,subject to correction1 it is fairly certain that the first place in ,london where they provided music at dinner was the ,holborn ,restaurant1 which had been a swimming-bath1 a dancing-casino1 and other things4 ,the example was speedily followed1 and very soon bands sprang up like mushrooms right and left1 at every restaurant which made any pretence of attracting the multitude4 ,the ,criterion started glee-singers1 although this was perhaps more directly an outcome of ,herr ,jongmanns' boys' choir at ,evans' in ,covent ,garden4 ,music ,nearly every restaurant in ,london nowadays has a band1 and go where you will1 such spectacles are offered you as a man with music in his soul trying to take his hot soup in jig time1 because the band is playing prestissimo forsooth1 and getting very red in the face whilst so doing4 ,then will follow the whitebait1 and the band1 just out of pure cussedness1 plays a languishing slow movement1 whereupon the musical diner is obliged to eat his whitebait andante1 and the dear little fish get quite cold in the process4 ,music ,over in ,paris1 ,berlin1 and on the ,riviera it is even worse4 ,the restaurateurs there encourage a wild1 fierce race of hirsute ruffians called ,tsiganes1 who are supposed to be ,hungarian gipsies3 8,a nation of geniuses1 you know2 they can't read a note of music1 and play only by ear60 ,that's just the trouble of it--because their ears are often all wrong4 ,there is absolutely nothing less conducive to a good appetite than to watch these short-jacketed1 befrogged1 ,simian fiddlers playing away for dear life the ,rakoczy ,march or a maltreated ,strauss waltz1 and ogling la ,rigo any foolish female who seems attracted by them4 ,it is on record that an ,englishman once approached the leader of such a band in a ,paris restaurant and asked him the name of the dance he had just been playing4 8,sure1 an' ,i don't know1 yer honour10 was the reply1 8but ,i'm thinking it's a jig40 ,all the ,hungarians do not come from ,hungary4 ,curiously enough1 there is an old-time connexion between music and dinner1 although not precisely as we understand either4 ,in the great houses of the seventeenth century dinner was announced by a concert of trumpets and drums1 or with blasts from a single horn1 blown by the head huntsman4 ,the music of huntsmen running in upon their quarry was the music which declared the venison and wild boar ready for the trenchers4 ,blown to announce the coming of dinner and supper1 the horn was also wound to celebrate the virtue of particular dishes4 ,the nobler creatures of the chase were seldom brought to table without notes from the trumpet4 ,musical honours were accorded to the peacock1 the swan1 the sturgeon1 and the turbot4 ,the ,french used to say1 8,cornez le diner10 i4e4 8,cornet the dinner0--hence we derive our corned beef4 ,but to return to our own times2 things have come to such a pass1 musically speaking1 that the suburbanest of suburban ladies shopping of an afternoon in ,oxford ,street cannot drink her cup of tea without a band in the basement4 ,it is quite humorous to listen to a selection from 8,la ,bohme0 punctuated by 8,ten three-farthings1 my dear1 and cheap at that10 or 8,you must really tell ,ethel to have a silk foundation02 but women are such thoroughly musical beings that they seem to accommodate themselves to all sorts of incongruities4 ,the old gourmets1 who knew how to dine1 loved music in its right place and at the right time1 but that was not at dinner4 ,rossini1 the great composer1 was one of them4 ,he loved good cheer and he wrote wonderful music--but he never mixed the two4 ,it is passing strange that various ways of cooking eggs have been called after various composers4 ,thus we have ufs la ,meyerbeer1 la ,rossini1 la ,wagner1 even la ,sullivan4 ,why music and eggs should be thus intimately connected is somewhat of a puzzle4 ,the late ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 who married a musician1 and the late ,joseph of the ,savoy1 who was an artist at heart1 both despised music at dinner4 ,the former said that it retarded rather than assisted digestion2 and the latter remarked that he could never get his cutlets in tune with the band4 ,either the band was flat and his cutlets were sharp1 or vice vers4 ,there are a few restaurants in ,london1 some half-dozen at most1 where one can dine in peace1 undisturbed by potage la ,leoncavallo1 poisson la ,rubinstein1 rti la ,tschaikowski1 and entremet la ,chaminade4 ,but it would be unwise to say where they are1 because it might attract crowds and induce the proprietors to start a band4 ,and1 after all1 a dinner-table is not a concert platform4 ,in the 8,greville ,memoirs0 7#ahca7 you may read that dinners of all fools have as good a chance of being agreeable as dinners of all clever people3 at least the former are often gay1 and the latter are frequently heavy4 ,nonsense and folly gilded over with good breeding and les usages du monde produce often more agreeable results than a collection of rude1 awkward1 intellectual powers4 ,this must be our consolation for enjoying 8gay0 dinners4 ,in a translation from ,dionysius1 through ,athenus1 occur these lines3-- ,to roast some beef1 to carve a joint with neatness1 ,to boil up sauces1 and to blow the fire1 ,is anybody's task2 he who does this ,is but a seasoner and broth-maker2 ,a cook is quite another thing4 ,his mind ,must comprehend all facts and circumstances3 ,where is the place1 and what the time of supper2 ,who are the guests1 and who the entertainer2 ,what fish he ought to buy1 and where to buy it4 ,this shows a nice appreciation of the duties of the all-round cook1 supervised by a knowledgeable master1 and is preferable to the fastidiousness of ,sir ,epicure ,mammon in 8,the ,alchemist10 who leaves the best fare1 such as pheasants1 calvered salmon1 knots1 godwits1 and lampreys1 to his footboy2 confining himself to dainties such as cockles boiled in silver shells1 shrimps swimming in butter of dolphin's milk1 carp tongues1 camels' heels1 barbels' beards1 boiled dormice1 oiled mushrooms1 and the like4 ,one must go back to ,roman cookery1 via ,nero and others1 for such gustatory eccentricities1 a number of which1 one may shrewdly believe1 were not precisely what they are described to be in modern ,english4 ,do we not know1 for instance1 that a famous ,roman cook 7who was probably a ,greek71 having received an order for anchovies when those fish were out of season1 dexterously imitated them out of turnips1 colouring1 condiments1 and the inevitable garum2 as to the exact and unpleasant constituents of which1 authorities1 including the great ,soyer1 differ considerably4 ,the result cannot have been of the nature described by ,miss ,lydia ,melford in 8,humphry ,clinker10 who called the ,bristol waters 8so clear1 so pure1 so mild1 so charmingly mawkish40 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,the ,,poet ,,in ,,the ,,kitchen 8,drinking has indeed been sung1 but why1 ,i have heard it asked1 have we no #8,eating ,songs'8--for eating is1 surely1 a fine pleasure4 ,many practise it already1 and it is becoming more general every day4 ,i speak not of the finicking joy of the gourmet1 but the joy of an honest appetite in ecstasy1 the elemental joy of absorbing quantities of fresh1 simple food--mere roast lamb1 new potatoes1 and peas of living green4 ,it is1 indeed1 an absorbing pleasure40 ,r4 ,,le ,,gallienne4 ,the quotation with which ,i have headed this chapter1 though appropriate enough in a sense1 disproves itself in the assertion4 ,we have 8,eating ,songs0 in plenty1 both in our own language and in foreign tongues1 but they have been neglected and spurned1 and for that reason they well repay a little enterprising research4 ,here and there1 throughout our literature1 are gems of gastronomical versification1 and it is1 in fact1 impossible to do more than indicate a tithe of the treasures that may be unearthed with a very little trouble and patience4 ,among the anthologies of the future1 the near future maybe1 is undoubtedly the ,anthology of the ,kitchen4 ,it is ready written1 and only remains to be gathered4 ,there is barely a poet of note who could not be laid under contribution4 ,shakespeare1 ,byron1 ,branger1 ,browning1 ,burns1 ,coleridge1 ,crabbe1 ,dryden1 ,goethe1 ,heine1 ,landor1 ,prior1 ,moore1 ,rogers1 and ,villon are the first chance names to occur1 but there are many more who might be cited with equal justice4 ,thackeray wrote verses on ,bouillabaisse2 which it would be absurd to quote1 so well are they known4 ,mry1 ,alexandre ,dumas1 ,th4 de ,banville1 ,th4 ,gautier1 and ,aurlien ,scholl collaborated1 under the editorship of ,charles ,monselet 7himself a gastronomic poet of no mean order71 in a little book published in #ahei under the title 8,la ,cuisinire ,potique40 ,five years later there appeared in ,philadelphia 8,a ,poetical ,cook ,book10 by ,j4 ,m4 ,m41 with charming rhymed recipes for such things as stewed duck and peas3-- ,when duck and bacon in a mass ,you in a stew-pan lay1 ,a spoon around the vessel pass1 ,and gently stir away6 ,the poetical author dilates too upon buckwheat cakes and oatmeal pudding1 and quotes ,dodsley on butter and ,barlow on hasty pudding4 ,sydney ,smith's recipe for a salad is only too well known1 and it may be hoped that it is not often tried1 because from a gastronomic point of view it is a dire decoction4 ,arthur ,hugh ,clough in 8,le ,diner0 7,dipsychus7 has this entirely charming verse3-- ,a clear soup with eggs3 voil tout2 of the fish ,the filets de sole are a moderate dish ,a la ,orly1 but you're for red mullet you say4 ,by the gods of good fare1 who can question to-day8 ,how pleasant it is to have money1 heigh ho6 ,how pleasant it is to have money6 ,nearly two hundred years ago 7in #agjh1 to be precise7 ,dr4 ,william ,king wrote 8,the ,art of ,cookery10 in imitation of ,horace's 8,art of ,poetry02 in the original edition it was advertised as being by the author of 8,a ,tale of a ,tub10 but although ,king was a friend of ,swift1 there seems to have been no authority to make use of his name4 ,in the second edition1 in the following year1 some letters to ,dr4 ,lister are added1 and the title page ascribes the poem to 8the ,author of the ,journey to ,london10 who dedicates it--or1 rather1 8humbly inscribes0 it--to 8,the ,honourable ,beefsteak ,club40 ,this edition has an exquisitely engraved frontispiece by ,m4 ,van der ,gucht4 ,in the fifth volume of ,grimod de la ,reynire's entrancing 8,almanach des ,gourmands0 7#ahjg7 there is a poetical epistle d'un vrai ,gourmand son ami1 l',abb d',herville1 homme extrmement sobre1 et qui ne cessoit de lui prcher l'abstinence4 ,these are a few of his lines3-- ,harpagon dit3 ,il faut manger pour vivre2 ,et je dis1 moi1 que je vis pour manger4 ,que l'on m'appelle un cochon d'epicure3 ,c'est un loge1 et non pas une injure4 ,subsequent volumes contain many poetical references4 ,there is even a hymn to ,epicurianism1 a fable gourmande et plus morale encore1 entitled 8,les ufs2 a logogriphe2 several chansons2 and a boutade40 ,mortimer ,collins1 in 8,the ,british ,birds10 has an exquisitely humorous tourney of three poets who respectively sing the praises of salad2 and the late ,dr4 ,kenealy wrote a book 7in #ahde7 called 8,brallaghan1 or the ,deipnosophists10 in which he tunes his lyre in praise of good food--and ,irish whisky4 ,although ,sydney ,smith's salad mixture is useless1 his verses entitled 8,a ,receipt to ,roast ,mutton0 are excellent1 particularly this verse3-- ,gently stir and blow the fire1 ,lay the mutton down to roast1 ,dress it quickly1 ,i desire1 ,in the dripping put a toast1 ,that ,i hunger may remove-- ,mutton is the meat ,i love4 ,an anonymous author has given us the immortal lines3-- ,turkey boiled ,is turkey spoiled1 ,and turkey roast ,is turkey lost2 ,but for turkey braised ,the ,lord be praised6 ,that they are absolutely true every ,feinschmecker1 as the ,germans say1 is bound to admit4 ,the famous ,cheshire ,cheese pudding has not been without its laureate1 one ,j4 ,h4 ,wadsworth1 who opens his pan thus3-- ,we sought 8,the ,cheese0 with thirst and hunger prest1 ,and own we love the ,pudding ,day the best1 ,but no one quarrels with the chops cooked here1 ,or steaks1 when wash'd down with old ,english beer6 ,the leg of mutton has not lacked its devotees from ,thackeray's-- ,a plain leg of mutton1 my ,lucy1 ,i prithee get ready at three1 to ,berchoux' praise of the gigot-- ,j'aime mieux un tendre gigot ,qui1 sans pomp et sans talage1 ,se montre avec un entourage ,de laitue ou de haricot4 ,sir ,john ,suckling contributes to the poetic garland in his lines3-- ,the business of the ,kitchen's great ,and it is fit that men should eat1 ,nor was it e'er denied4 ,and an anonymous ,scotch poet indites the following ode to luncheons3-- ,there are the sausages1 there are the eggs1 ,and there are the chickens with close-fitted legs1 ,and there is a bottle of brandy1 ,and here some of the best sugar candy1 ,which is better than sugar for coffee4 ,there are slices from good ham cut off2 he ,who cut them was but an indifferent carver1 ,he wanted the delicate hand of a barber4 ,and there is a dish1 ,buttered over6 ,and fish4 ,trout and char ,sleeping are1 ,the smooth-like surface over4 ,there's a pie made of veal1 one of widgeons1 ,and there's one of ham mixed with pigeons4 ,a well-known ,french critic1 ,achille 7not ,octave7 ,uzanne1 has compiled a little collection of menus and receipts in verses1 with a notable preface by ,chatillon-,plessis1 which includes poems on such thrilling subjects as jugged hare1 lobster in the ,american fashion1 ,charlotte of apples1 truffles in champagne1 epigrams of lamb1 mousse of strawberries1 and green peas4 ,a more recent ,american poetaster has published during the last few years 8,poems of ,good ,cheer10 which are in the manner of fables1 such as that of the man who 8,wanted ,pearls with his ,oysters10 and the busy broker 8,who had no time to eat10 and consequently acquired dyspepsia4 ,lord ,byron too may be allowed to have his say3-- 444 ,man is a carnivorous production1 ,and must have meals--at least one a day4 ,he cannot live1 like woodcocks1 upon suction2 ,although his anatomical construction ,bears vegetables in a grumbling way1 ,your labouring people think1 beyond all question1 ,beef1 veal1 and mutton1 better for digestion4 ,one of the most ambitious efforts in the culinary-poetic line is1 undoubtedly1 8,la ,gastronome1 ou l'homme des ,champs ,table2 pome didactique en quatre chants1 par ,j4 ,berchoux1 #ahjd10 wherein is set forth1 at some length--firstly1 the history of cooking2 then the order of the services2 and lastly1 some fugitive pieces which allude to the gay science in choice and poetic terms4 ,the book is enriched with some exquisite copper-plate engravings by ,gravelot1 ,cochin1 and ,monsiau4 ,the lines addressed by the author to his contemporaries warning them against the 8repas monstreux des ,grecs et des ,romains0 are full of repressed dignity and good sound common sense4 ,one puts down the book with a sense of poetical-gastronomical repletion4 ,the poetic afflatus has possessed most great cooks1 but none with more practical application than the immortal ,alexis ,soyer1 the hero of the ,crimea and the ,reform ,club1 who1 on the death of his wife1 a clever amateur artist1 wrote this simple and witty epitaph1 8,soyez tranquille40 ,gay's poem on a knuckle of veal is also worthy of record1 and an anonymous ,american poet has immortalized the duck in four pregnant verses4 ,a very modern poet who writes over the initials of ,m4 ,t4 ,p4 has four charming verses on the propriety of ladies wearing their hats whilst dining4 ,the second and third stanzas read as follows3-- ,anchovies from ,norwegian shores6 ,sardines from sunny southern seas6 ,there's naught my simple soul adores ,one half so ardently as these4 ,and while ,i munch the well-fumed sprat1 ,sit thou and watch and wear thy hat4 ,i need no entre1 want no bird1 ,nor care for joints1 or boiled or roast1 ,but my imagination's stirred ,by titillating things on toast4 ,soft roes the commissariat ,shall serve me opposite thy hat4 ,some folks who are not yet very old may remember a quaint part-song or quartette for male voices1 entitled 8,life is but a ,melancholy ,flower10 which was sung alternately somewhat in this fashion3-- ,life is butter6 ,melon66 ,cauliflower666 ,life is but a melancholy flower6 ,it had much deserved success in its day4 ,an old recipe for the roasting of a swan is very fairly summed up in these lines3-- ,,to ,,roast ,a ,,swan ,take three pounds of beef1 beat fine in a mortar1 ,put it into the swan--that is1 when you've caught her4 ,some pepper1 salt1 mace1 some nutmeg1 an onion1 ,will heighten the flavour in ,gourmand's opinion4 ,then tie it up tight with a small piece of tape1 ,that the gravy and other things may not escape4 ,a meal paste 7rather stiff7 should be laid on the breast1 ,and some 8whitey brown0 paper should cover the rest4 ,fifteen minutes at least ere the swan you take down1 ,pull the paste off the bird that the breast may get brown4 ,,the ,,gravy ,to the gravy of beef 7good and strong7 ,i opine ,you'll be right if you add half a pint of port wine2 ,pour this through the swan--yes1 quite through the belly1 ,then serve the whole up with some hot currant jelly4 ,n4,b4--,the swan must not be skinned4 ,this poem has been attributed to ,mr4 ,george ,keech1 chef of the ,gloucester ,hotel at ,weymouth--of course a famous breeding place for swans4 ,the following recipe for making a 8soft0 cheese is said to be by ,dr4 ,jenner3-- ,would you make a soft cheese8 ,then ,i'll tell you how4 ,take a gallon of milk quite fresh from the cow2 ,ere the rennet is added1 the dairyman's daughter ,must throw in a quart of the clearest spring water4 ,when perfectly curdled1 so white and so nice1 ,you must take it all out of the dish with a slice1 ,and put it 'thout breaking with care in the vat1 ,with a cheese-cloth at bottom--be sure to mind that4 ,this delicate matter take care not to squeeze1 ,but fill as the whey passes off by degrees4 ,next day you may turn it1 and do not be loth ,to wipe it quite dry with a clean linen cloth4 ,this must be done you cannot well doubt1 ,as long as you see the whey oozing out4 ,the cheese is now finished1 and nice it will be1 ,if enveloped in leaves of the green ashen tree4 ,or what will do better1 at least full as well1 ,in nettles just plucked from the bank of the dell4 ,in praise of the best food in the world--plain ,british roast and boiled--,mr4 ,g4 ,r4 ,sims has dilated in his weekly columns2 a verse from his perfectly correct and strict 8,ballade of ,new-,time ,simpson's0 is well worth quoting3-- ,they do not call the saddle 8selle0 ,that you with currant jelly eat2 ,boiled fowl's not la ,bchamel4 ,your eyes no foreign phrases meet ,that ,english waiters can't repeat1 ,and so to ,simpson's ,i repair4 ,the ,english kitchen's bad to beat1 ,plain roast and boiled are ,british fare4 ,the 8,envoi10 which commences most cleverly according to traditional rule1 runs as follows3-- ,prince's and ,carlton1 you ,i greet1 ,savoy1 ,i own your chef is rare2 ,but you with ,simpson's shall compete4 ,plain roast and boiled are ,british fare4 ,to come back to recipes1 here is one for the famous ,homard l',amricaine written by the chef of the ,grand ,international ,hotel at ,chicago1 who is quite annoyed with ,m4 ,rostand for his obvious plagiarism in 8,cyrano de ,bergerac40 ,,comment ,,on ,,fait ,,le ,,homard ,l',,am,,ricaine ,prenez un homard qu'on vend ,bien vivant2 ,avant qu'il se carapate ,sans vous laisser attendrir1 ,sans souffrir1 ,dtachez-lui chaque patte4 ,faites alors revenir ,et blondir ,du beurre en la casserole2 ,fourrez-y votre homard ,sans retard1 ,mais avant qu'il ne rissole ,ajoutez un court-bouillon ,de bouillon ,a vous brler la bedaine6 ,faites cuire4 ,servez-le ,et c'est le ,homard l'amricaine6 ,many curious old poems may be found by careful delving in the books our great-grandfathers used to read1 and which we ought to read1 but don't4 ,for instance1 the ,roxborough ,ballads contain a delightful poem briefly entitled 8,the ,cook-,maid's ,garland3 or the out-of-the-way ,devil3 shewing how four highwaymen were bit by an ingenious cook-maid0 7#agbj74 ,there is a still older ballad in the same collection called 8,the ,coy ,cook-,maid1 who was courted simultaneously by ,irish1 ,welch1 ,spanish1 ,french and ,dutch1 but at last was conquered by a poor ,english ,taylor02 this is in blackletter1 and is dated #afhe4 ,a ,french lady with a happy knack of verse has written the following rhymed recipe for ,,sauce ,,mayonnaise ,dans un grand bol en porcelaine ,un jaune d'uf tant plac1 ,sel et poivre1 vinaigre peine1 ,et le travail est commenc4 ,on verse l'huile goutte goutte2 ,la mayonnaise prend du corps1 ,epaississant1 sans qu'on s'en doute1 ,en flot luisant1 jusqu'aux bords4 ,quand vous jugez que l'abondance ,peut suffire votre repas1 ,au frais mettez-la par prudence4444 ,tout est fini2 n'y touchez pas6 ,under the title of 8,women ,i have never married10 ,o4 ,s4 of 8,punch0 writes delightfully on the lady who knew too much about eating4 ,this is one of his verses3-- ,she came4 ,she passed a final word ,upon the bisque1 the ,mornay sole1 ,the poulet 7said she thought the bird ,shewed at its best en casserole72 ,she found the parfait 8quite first-rate10 ,summed up the chef as 8rather handy10 ,knew the ,lafitte for '#hh1 ,and twice encored a fine old brandy4 ,the following couplets are by--,i think--an ,american author4 ,always have lobster sauce with salmon1 ,and put mint sauce your roasted lamb on4 ,in dressing salad mind this law1 ,with two hard yolks use one that's raw4 ,roast veal with rich stock gravy serve1 ,and pickled mushrooms1 too1 observe4 ,roast pork1 sans apple sauce1 past doubt1 ,is 8,hamlet0 with the ,prince left out4 ,your mutton chops with paper cover ,and make them amber-brown all over4 ,broil lightly your beefsteak4 ,to fry it ,argues contempt of ,christian diet4 ,to roast spring chickens is to spoil 'em2 ,just split 'em down the back and broil 'em4 ,it gives true epicures the vapours ,to see boiled mutton minus capers4 ,the cook deserves a hearty cuffing ,who serves roast fowl with tasteless stuffing4 ,nice oyster sauce gives zest to cod-- ,a fish1 when fresh1 to feast a god4 ,the ,old ,beef ,steak ,society1 otherwise known as the ,sublime ,society of ,beef ,steaks1 and of which the full history has too often appeared in print1 entertained the ,prince of ,wales1 afterwards ,george ,,iv1 on his election as a member2 the following is a verse of a song written in honour of the occasion by the poet-laureate to the ,society1 ,captain ,charles ,morris of 8,pall ,mall0 fame3-- ,while thus we boast a general creed1 ,in honour of our shrine1 sir1 ,you find the world long since agreed ,that beef was food divine1 sir2 ,and ,british fame still tells afar ,this truth1 where'er she wanders1 ,for wine1 for women1 and for war1 ,beefsteaks make ,alexanders4 ,i venture to think that this little excerpt from ,lafcadio ,hearn's 8,kokoro0 is worthy of record here as a piece of real poetry in prose4 ,it is from a story called 8,the ,nun of the ,temple of ,amida40 8,once daily1 at a fixed hour1 she would set for the absent husband1 in his favourite room1 little repasts faultlessly served on dainty lacquered trays--miniature meals such as are offered to the ghosts of the ancestors and to the gods4 7,such a repast offered to the spirit of the absent one loved is called a kag-sen1 lit4 #8shadow-tray4'7 ,these repasts were served at the east side of the room1 and his kneeling-cushion placed before them4 ,the reason they were served at the east side was because he had gone east4 ,before removing the food1 she always lifted the cover of the little soup-bowl to see if there was vapour upon its lacquered inside surface4 ,for it is said that if there be vapour on the inside of the lid covering food so offered1 the absent beloved is well4 ,but if there be none1 he is dead1 because that is a sign that his soul has returned by itself to seek nourishment4 ,o-,toyo found the lacquer thickly beaded with vapour day by day40 ,it would be unfair to omit mention of ,molire1 who so often and wisely devotes attention to the culinary craft1 for which1 indeed1 he had a high appreciation4 ,did he not read his plays to his cook8 ,a typical passage is that from his 8,femmes ,savantes10 when ,chrysale expatiates to ,philaminte and ,blise4 ,que ma servante manque aux lois de ,vaugelas1 ,pourvu qu'a la cuisine elle ne manque pas4 ,j'aime bien mieux pour moi qu'en pluchant ses herbes1 ,elle accommode mal les noms avec les verbes1 ,et rdise cent fois un has et mchant mot1 ,que de brler ma viande ou saler trop mon pot4 ,je vis de bonne soupe1 et non de beau langage1 ,vaugelas n'apprend point bien faire un potage2 ,et ,malherbe et ,balzac1 si savans en beaux mots1 ,en cuisine peuttre auraient t des sots4 ,very few people1 ,i am afraid1 read the entirely delightful verse of ,mortimer ,collins1 poet1 journalist1 novelist1 epicure 7in the best sense71 and country-lover--all in one4 ,he was among the nowadays less-known masters of gastronomics1 a man who1 although no cook himself1 knew by intuition and experience just what was right1 and if it were wrong1 just why it was wrong4 ,his novels and poems1 although very unequal1 do not deserve to be forgotten1 for they contain many fine1 thoughtful1 and beautiful passages4 ,his burlesque of ,aristophanes1 8,the ,british ,birds10 is1 in its way1 a masterpiece4 ,he wrote much and well on cookery and dining1 both in prose and verse4 ,here follows one of his sonnets from a sequence addressed to the months--from a gastronomic point of view4 ,,june ,o perfect period of the sweet birds' tune1 ,of ,philomel and ,procne1 known to fable2 ,of wayward morns1 and never utterable ,joys of the evenglome1 beneath the moon6 ,cool be thy food1 ,o gourmand1 runs the ,rune3 ,pigeon and quail are suited to the table2 ,anchovy and sardine are noticeable2 ,red mullet1 first of fish1 is prime in ,june4 ,richmond and ,greenwich tempt the ,londoner ,to dine where ,thames is cool1 and whitebait crisp1 ,and soft the manners are and lax the morals4 ,but ,i 7when twilight's breezes softly stir1 ,rob the rich roses1 though the woodbine lisp7 ,dine on my lawn hedged in by limes and laurels4 ,the 8,minora ,carmina0 of the late ,c4 ,c4 ,r41 whose verse has much of the charm of ,j4 ,k4 ,s4 and ,c4 ,s4 ,calverley1 contains a few verses anent the pleasure of dining out1 which are headed ,,nunc ,,est ,,coenandum ,although the season sadly ,may open1 in contrast grim ,with those when pleasure madly ,whirled on the wings of ,whim-- ,though sporting members sigh for ,the huntsman1 hound1 and horn1 ,and invalids loud cry for ,health-spots from which they're torn2 ,yet e'en to town detested ,comes comfort in the line-- 8,your presence is requested0-- ,you're going out to dine4 ,it would be easy to extend this list indefinitely1 but enough is as good as a feast4 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,the ,,salad ,,in ,,literature 8,i could digest a salad gathered in a churchyard as well as in a garden4 ,i wonder not at the ,french with their dishes of frogs1 snails1 and toadstools2 nor at the ,jews for locusts and grasshoppers2 but being amongst them make them my common viands1 and ,i find they agree with my stomach as well as theirs40 ,,sir ,,thomas ,,browne1 8,religio ,medici40 ,we have it on the authority of ,chaucer that salad is cooling food1 for he says3-- 444 ,and after that they yede about gadering ,pleasaunt ,salades which they made hem eat1 ,for to refresh their great unkindly heat4 ,that the eating of green meat is and always has been closely bound up with healthy human life is a fact which needs no demonstration2 but the constantly recurring references to it in the literature of all ages would seem to point the moral in so far as salads must always have appealed peculiarly to those leading a more or less sedentary life4 ,in a serious ,biblical commentary of the eighteenth century1 ,baron von ,vaerst1 a ,german savant1 refers to ,nebuchadnezzar's diet of grass as a punishment which did not in any way consist in the eating of salad1 but in the enforced absence of vinegar1 oil1 and salt4 ,that salad adds a zest to life is proved by ,st4 ,anthony1 who said that the pious old man1 ,st4 ,hieronymus1 lived to the green old age of #aje1 and during the last ninety years of his life existed wholly upon bread and water1 but 8not without a certain lusting after salad40 ,this is confirmed by ,st4 ,athanasius4 ,in ,shakespeare's 8,henry ,,vi10 ,jack ,cade remarks that a salad 8is not amiss to cool a man's stomach in the hot weather40 ,cleopatra too refers to her 8salad days1 when she was green in judgment1 cool in blood40 ,in 8,le ,quadragesimal ,spiritual10 a work on theology published in ,paris in #aeba1 these lines occur3-- ,la ,salade moult proffitable ,signe la parolle de ,dieu ,qu'il faut ouyr en chascun lieu4 ,pcheurs1 entendez ce notable6 ,all writers agree as to the cooling properties of salads1 and particularly lettuce1 on the blood4 ,in his 8,acetaria3 a ,discourse of ,sallets0 7#afii71 ,john ,evelyn says that lettuce1 8though by ,metaphor call'd ,mortuorum ,cibi 7to say nothing of ,adonis and his sad ,mistress7 by reason of its soporiferous quality1 ever was and still continues the principal ,foundation of the universal ,tribe of ,sallets1 which is to ,cool and ,refresh4 ,and therefore in such high esteem with the ,ancients1 that divers of the ,valerian family dignify'd and enobled their name with that of ,lactucinii40 ,he goes on to say that 8the more frugal ,italians and ,french1 to this ,day1 ,accept and gather ,ogni ,verdura1 any thing almost that's ,green and ,tender1 to the very ,tops of ,nettles2 so as every ,hedge affords a ,sallet 7not unagreeable7 season'd with its proper ,oxybaphon of ,vinegar1 ,salt1 ,oyl1 c41 which doubtless gives it both the ,relish and ,name of ,salad1 ,ensalade1 as with us of ,sallet1 from the ,sapidity1 which renders not ,plants and ,herbs alone1 but ,men themselves1 and their ,conversations1 pleasant and agreeable40 ,in praise of ,lettuce he has much to say1 and waxes almost dithyrambic as to its virtues4 8,it is indeed of ,nature more cold and moist than any of the rest2 yet less astringent1 and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in ,fevers2 for it allays ,heat1 bridles ,choler1 extinguishes ,thirst1 excites ,appetite1 kindly ,nourishes1 and above all represses ,vapours1 conciliates ,sleep1 mitigates ,pain2 besides the effect it has upon the ,morals4 ,galen 7whose beloved ,sallet it was7 from its pinguid1 subdulcid and agreeable ,nature1 says it breeds the most laudable blood40 ,and again3 8,we see how necessary it is that in the composure of a ,sallet every plant should come in to bear its part without being overpowered by some herb of a stronger taste1 but should fall into their place like the notes in music40 ,here is a salad recipe1 temp4 ,richard ,,ii4 ,take parsel1 sawge1 garlyc1 chibolles1 oynons1 lettes1 borage1 mynte1 poirettes1 fenel1 and cressis2 lave and waithe hem clene1 pike hem1 plucke hem smalle wyth thyne honde1 and myng hem wel wyth rawe oyl1 lay on vynegar and salt and serve ytt forth4 ,this must have been a strong salad1 and full-flavoured rather than delicate4 8,honde0 is of course 8hand10 and to 8myng0 is to mix4 ,the etymology of the recipe is interesting4 ,old ,gervase ,markham1 in his 8,english ,housewife10 has this quaint account of how to make a 8,strange ,sallet40 ,first1 if you would set forth any ,red flower1 that you know or have seen1 you shall take your pots of preserved ,gilly-flowers1 and suting the colours answerable to the flower1 you shall proportion it forth1 and lay the shape of the ,flower in a ,fruit dish1 then with your ,purslane leaves make the ,green ,coffin of the ,flower1 and with the ,purslane stalks make the stalk of the ,flower1 and the divisions of the leaves and branches2 then with the thin slices of ,cucumers1 make their leaves in true proportions1 jagged or otherwise2 and thus you may set forth some full blown1 some half blown and some in the bud1 which will be pretty and curious4 ,and if you will set forth yellow flowers1 take the pots of ,primroses and ,cowslips1 if blew flowers1 then the pots of ,violets or ,buglosse flowers1 and these ,sallets are both for shew and use1 for they are more excellent for taste1 than for to look on4 ,another variety of old 8,sallet0 is referred to in 8,the ,gentlewoman's ,delight0 7#afed71 which instructs one ,how to make a ,sallet of all manner of ,hearbs4 ,take your hearbs1 and pick them clean1 and the floures2 wash them clean1 and swing them in a strainer2 then put them into a dish1 and mingle them with ,cowcumbers1 and ,lemons1 sliced very thin2 then scrape on ,sugar1 and put in ,vinegar and ,oil2 then spread the floures on the top2 garnish your dish with hard ,eggs1 and all sorts of your floures2 scrape on ,sugar and serve it4 ,an even earlier work1 ,cogan's 8,haven of ,health0 7#aehi71 has the following reference3 8,lettuse is much used in salets in the sommer tyme with vinegar1 oyle1 and sugar and salt1 and is formed to procure appetite for meate1 and to temper the heate of the stomach and liver40 ,montaigne recounts a conversation he had with an ,italian chef who had served in the kitchen of ,cardinal ,caraffa up to the death of his gastronomic eminence4 8,i made him10 he says1 8tell me something about his post4 ,he gave me a lecture on the science of eating1 with a gravity and magisterial countenance as if he had been determining some vexed question in theology4444 ,the difference of salads1 according to the seasons1 he next discoursed upon4 ,he explained what sorts ought to be prepared warm1 and those which should always be served cold2 the way of adorning and embellishing them in order to render them seductive to the eye4 ,after this he entered on the order of table-service1 a subject full of fine and important considerations40 ,an excerpt from 8a late exquisite comedy0 called ,the ,lawyer's ,fortune1 or ,love in a ,hollow ,tree1 is quoted by ,dr4 ,king 7#agji73-- ,mrs4 ,favourite4 ,mistress1 shall ,i put any ,mushrooms1 ,mangoes1 or ,bamboons into the ,sallad8 ,lady ,bonona4 ,yes1 ,i prithee1 the best thou hast4 ,mrs4 ,favourite4 ,shall ,i use ,ketchop or ,anchovies in the ,gravy8 ,lady ,bonona4 ,what you will6 ,a quaint old book on ,salads is entitled 8,on the ,use and ,abuse of ,salads in general and ,salad ,plants in ,particular10 by ,johann ,friedrich ,schtze1 ,doctor of ,medicine1 and ,grand-,ducal ,saxe-,coburg-,meiningen1 ,physician at ,sonnenburg and ,neuhaus3 ,leipzig1 #ageh4 ,the learned doctor adopts the classical division of humanity into the ,temperamentum ,sanguineum1 or warm and damp1 the ,cholericum1 or warm and dry1 the ,phlegmaticum1 or cold and damp1 and the ,melancholicum1 or cold and dry4 ,to each of these classes a particular form of ,salad applies1 and none other4 ,when ,pope ,sixtus the ,fifth was an obscure monk he had a great friend in a certain lawyer who sank steadily into poverty what time the monk rose to the ,papacy4 ,the poor lawyer journeyed to ,rome to seek aid from his old friend the ,pope1 but he fell sick by the wayside and told his doctor to let the ,pope know of his sad state4 8,i will send him a salad10 said ,sixtus1 and duly dispatched a basket of lettuces to the invalid4 ,when the lettuces were opened money was found in their hearts4 ,hence the ,italian proverb of a man in need of money3 8,he wants one of ,sixtus the ,fifth's salads40 ,fourcroy and ,chaptal1 notable chemists of the end of the eighteenth century1 unite in praise of salads1 and have written disquisitions on the dressing thereof2 and ,rabelais opines that the best salad-dressing is ,good ,humour1 which is just the sort of thing that one might expect from him4 ,his references to salad are numerous1 and in the one oft-quoted case humorously apposite4 ,in the olden time salads were mixed by pretty women1 and they did it with their hands4 ,this was so well understood that down at least to the time of ,rousseau 7,littr gives a quotation from the 8,nouvelle ,heloise10 ,,vi4 #b7 the phrase ,elle peut retourner la salade avec les doigts was used to describe a woman as being still young and beautiful4 8,dans le sicle dernier10 says ,littr1 8les jeunes femmes rtournaient la salade avec les doigts3 cette locution a disparu avec l'usage lui-mme40 ,among the gastrological ,italian authors of the seventeenth century ,i must refer to ,salvatore ,massonio1 who wrote a great work on the manner of dressing salads1 entitled 8,archidipno1 overo dell' ,insalata e dell' uso di essa1 ,trattato nuovo ,curioso e non mai pi dato in luce4 ,da ,salvatore ,massonio1 ,venice1 #afbg40 ,the ,british ,museum copy1 by the way1 belonged to ,sir ,joseph ,banks4 ,as was usual in those leisurely and spacious times1 there is a most glowing dedication beginning thus3 8,a ,molto ,illustri ,signori miei sempre osservandissimi i ,signori fratelli ,ludovico ,antonio e ,fabritio ,coll' ,antonii40 ,there is also a compendious bibliography of #aad authors consulted and mentioned in this work1 which1 indeed1 is of considerable importance and of great interest4 ,every one knows the oft-told tale of the ,french emigr who went about to noblemen's houses mixing delicate salads at a high fee4 ,most authorities refer to him as d',albignac1 although ,dr4 ,doran1 in his 8,table ,traits10 calls him le ,chevalier d',aubign2 but ,grenville ,murray1 who generally knew what he was writing about1 says that his name was ,gaudet4 ,however1 that matters little4 ,he1 whoever he was1 appears to have been an enterprising hustler of the period1 and it is recorded that he made a decent little fortune on which he eventually retired to his native land to enjoy peace and plenty for the remainder of his days4 ,in ,mortimer ,collins's 8,the ,british ,birds1 by the ,ghost of ,aristophanes0 7#ahgb71 there is a poetic tourney between three poets for the laureateship of ,cloud-,cuckooland2 the subject is 8,salad40 ,the poet with the 8redundant brow0 sings3-- ,o cool in the summer is salad1 ,and warm in the winter is love2 ,and a poet shall sing you a ballad ,delicious thereon and thereof4 ,a singer am ,i1 if no sinner1 ,my muse has a marvellous wing1 ,and ,i willingly worship at dinner ,the ,sirens of ,spring4 ,take endive 444 like love it is bitter2 ,take beet 444 for like love it is red3 ,crisp leaf of the lettuce shall glitter1 ,and cress from the rivulet's bed3 ,anchovies foam-born1 like the ,lady ,whose beauty has maddened this bard2 ,and olives from groves that are shady2 ,and eggs 444 boil 'em hard4 ,the poet with the 8redundant beard0 chants next4 ,waitress1 with eyes so marvellous black1 ,and the blackest possible lustrous gay tress1 ,this is the mouth of the ,zodiac ,when ,i want a pretty deft-handed waitress4 ,bring a china bowl1 you merry young soul2 ,bring anything green1 from worsted to celery2 ,bring pure olive oil1 from ,italy's soil 444 ,then your china bowl we'll well array4 ,when the time arrives chip choicest chives1 ,and administer quietly chili and capsicum 444 7,young girls do not quite know what's what ,till as a poet into their laps ,i come74 ,then a lobster fresh as fresh can be 7,when it screams in the pot ,i feel a murderer73 ,after which ,i fancy we ,shall want a few bottles of ,heidseck or ,roederer4 ,the poet of 8the redundant hair0 then sings his lay in ,tennysonian-,arthurian lines1 and is ultimately awarded the laureateship of ,cloud-,cuckoo-,town4 ,the verses do not show poor ,collins at his best1 and are only interesting as relating to the subject of salad4 ,other songs of his have never been excelled in a certain delicate charm of fancy and quaint turns of versification4 ,many salads have been mixed on the stage2 the most famous perhaps is the ,japanese salad which occurs in ,alexandre ,dumas fils' 8,francillon0 7produced at the ,thtre ,franais1 #ag ,january1 #ahhg74 ,it is not orthodox1 and1 even when deftly mixed1 not particularly nice1 the flavours being coarsely blended4 ,annette de ,riverolles1 inimitably played by ,reichemberg of the smiling teeth1 dictates the recipe to ,henri de ,symeux1 originally acted by ,laroche4 ,here is the passage3-- ,annette4 ,you must boil your potatoes in broth1 then cut them into slices1 just as you would for an ordinary salad1 and whilst they are still lukewarm1 add salt1 pepper1 very good olive oil1 with the flavour of the fruit1 vinegar4444 ,henri4 ,tarragon8 ,annette4 ,orleans is better1 but it is not important4 ,but what is important is half a glass of white wine1 ,chteau-,yquem1 if possible4 ,plenty of finely-chopped herbs4 ,now boil some very large mussels in a small broth 7court-bouillon71 with a head of celery1 drain them well and add them to the dressed potatoes4 ,mix it all up delicately4 ,thrse4 ,fewer mussels than potatoes8 ,annette4 ,one-third less4 ,the flavour of the mussels must be gradually felt2 it must not be anticipated1 and it must not assert itself4 ,stanislas4 ,very well put4 ,annette4 ,thank you4 ,when the salad is finished1 mixed4444 ,henri4 ,lightly4444 ,annette4 ,then you cover it with slices of truffles1 like professors' skull-caps4 ,henri4 ,boiled in champagne4 ,annette4 ,of course4 ,all this must be done a couple of hours before dinner1 so that the salad may get thoroughly cold before serving it4 ,henri4 ,you could put the salad-bowl on ice4 ,annette4 ,no1 no4 ,it must not be assaulted with ice4 ,it is very delicate1 and the different flavours must combine peacefully4 ,did you like the salad you had to-day8 ,henri4 ,delicious6 ,annette4 ,well1 follow my recipe and you will make it equally well4 ,a few years ago ,mr4 ,charles ,brookfield mixed an admirable salad on the stage of the ,haymarket in the course of his clever monologue 8,nearly ,seven40 ,on #ca ,january1 #ahca1 8,la salade d'oranges1 ou les trennes dans la mansarde10 by ,m4 ,m4 ,varin and ,desvergers1 was played at the ,palais ,royal4 ,the first-named author was a sort of gastronomic playwright1 for he wrote plays called 8,le cuisinier politique10 8,j'ai mang mon ami10 and others4 ,in the ,bohemian quarter of ,paris1 not so very many years ago1 the students of the plein air school1 the ,paysagistes1 used to sing this song at their convivial meetings3-- ,ah6 que j'aime avec de la salade1 ,un gros moreau de jambon6 ,y a pas danger qu'on soit jamais malade ,quand on mange avec de la salade ,un bon moreau de jambon4 ,amis1 cassons les pots1 les plats1 les verres1 ,cassons les verres1 les plats1 les pots2 ,puisqu'il n'y a plus dans l'plat qu'des pommes de terre1 ,cassons les verres1 les pots1 les plats6 8,when summer is icumen in10 one naturally turns to the cooling salad1 the refreshing salmon mayonnaise1 and the concomitant delights of mid-season entertaining4 ,regularly at that time of the year learned pundits in the daily papers tell us with portentous gravity what we ought to eat and what we ought to let alone4 ,all this is the direst nonsense4 ,a man or a woman of sense will eat that for which he or she feels inclined1 and will have the requisite gastronomic gumption to avoid heating dishes which are unseasonable and unpalatable4 ,with all changes of the weather sensible people accommodate their diet to the meteorological conditions2 fish is preferable to meat1 and fruit plays its strong suit1 because its cooling juices are just what we yearn to dally with when our appetites are a little under the weather4 ,all this is axiomatic4 ,of salads in particular4 ,i should like to give here and now the recipe of a salad which ,i have found most soothing and comforting in hot weather4 ,i may1 perhaps1 be permitted to act as godfather and christen it 8,vanity ,fair ,salad40 ,it is quite simple and wholesome and toothsome4 ,here followeth the recipe4 ,,vanity ,,fair ,,salad4--,take eight to ten cold cooked artichoke bottoms 7fonds d'artichauts71 fresh1 not preserved1 and the yellow hearts of two young healthy lettuces 7curs de laitue74 ,break them into pieces with a silver fork or your fingers 7on no account let them be touched by steel72 add a not too thinly sliced cucumber1 peeled2 toss these together4 ,let them stand for half an hour2 then drain off all the water4 ,now add two or three tablespoonfuls of pickled red cabbage1 minus all vinegar1 and a dozen sliced-up radishes4 ,add the dressing4 ,as to this ,i prefer not to dogmatize4 ,my own mixture is three and a half tablespoonfuls of the very best ,nice olive oil to one of wine vinegar and one-half of tarragon1 with salt1 pepper1 ,french mustard1 and three drops of ,tabasco sauce4 ,but this is a matter of opinion1 and ,i insist on nothing except the total avoidance of that horrible furniture-polish mixture sold in quaint convoluted bottles1 and humorously dubbed 8salad sauce40 ,just before serving sprinkle the salad with chopped chervil and a suspicion of chives4 ,our great-grandmothers had various and curious recipes for the assuagement of summer fevers and megrims of that nature4 ,from an old volume of 8,the ,lady's ,companion1 or an infallible ,guide to the ,fair ,sex10 published anonymously in #agdc1 ,i cull the following recipe for 8,gascoign ,powder40 ,take prepar'd ,crabs' ,eyes1 ,red ,coral1 ,white ,amber1 very finely powdered1 of each half an ,ounce2 burnt ,hartshorn1 half an ,ounce2 ,pearls very finely powdered1 and ,oriental ,bezoar1 an ,ounce of each2 of the black ,tops of ,crabs' ,claws1 finely powdered1 four ,ounces4 ,grind all these on a ,marble ,stone1 till they cast a greenish ,colour2 then make it into ,balls with ,jelly made of ,english ,vipers ,skins1 which may be made1 and will jelly like ,hartshorn4 ,of course1 this was never meant to be taken seriously1 but the old cookery-book compilers always thought that a few of these pseudo-medieval recipes1 assumed to have been compounded by the wise men of old1 added a certain dignity to their otherwise quite harmless volumes4 ,the late ,sir ,henry ,thompson recommends that the host or hostess should mix the salad1 because not many servants can be trusted to execute the simple details4 ,mixing one saltspoon of salt and half that quantity of pepper in a tablespoon which is to be filled three times consecutively with the best fresh olive oil1 stirring each briskly until the condiments have been thoroughly mixed and at the same time distributed over the salad1 this is next to be tossed thoroughly but lightly1 until every portion glistens1 scattering meantime a little finely chopped fresh tarragon and chervil1 with a few atoms of chives over the whole1 so that sparkling green particles spot1 as with a pattern1 every portion of the leafy surface4 ,lastly1 but only immediately before serving1 one small tablespoonful of mild ,french1 or better still1 ,italian red-wine vinegar1 is to be sprinkled over all1 followed by another tossing of the salad4 8,la ,salade de la ,grande ,jeanne0 is a pretty child's story by the prolific writer1 ,p4 ,j4 ,stahl 7really ,p4 ,j4 ,hetzel71 telling of the friendship of a tiny tot named ,marie and a cow named ,jeanne4 ,they were born on the same day1 but the calf grew to a big cow long before ,marie became a big girl1 but they remained firm friends1 and ,marie always took ,jeanne to the pasture and ,jeanne in return took care of ,marie4 ,one day ,marie's little brother ,jacques had a brilliant idea4 ,he pitied poor ,jeanne having always to eat her grass just plain without any dressing4 ,how much better she would enjoy her food if it were properly mixed into a salad4 ,so ,jacques borrowed a big salad-bowl from his mother1 and mixed a bundle of grass with oil and vinegar and pepper and salt4 ,he put the bowl before ,jeanne1 who1 being a polite cow1 tasted the strange dish4 ,hardly had her great tongue plunged into the grass than she withdrew it with a melancholy moo1 and swinging her tail in an expostulatory manner1 she trotted off to the brook to take a long drink of water4 ,the moral is very trite4 8,the simple cuisine of nature suits cows better than that of man40 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,v ,,mrs4 ,,glasse ,,and ,,her ,,hare 8,every individual1 who is not perfectly imbecile and void of understanding1 is an epicure in his way2 the epicures in boiling potatoes are innumerable4 ,the perfection of all enjoyments depends on the perfection of the faculties of the mind and body2 the temperate man is the greatest epicure1 and the only true voluptuary40 ,,dr4 ,,kitchiner4 ,old myths die hard4 ,nevertheless1 as we grow older and wiser and saner and duller1 we drop the illusions of our youth1 and one by one our cherished beliefs fall from us1 argued away by force of circumstance1 lack of substantiation1 or sheer proof to the contrary4 ,in this last category we must perforce reckon the excellent ,mrs4 ,hannah ,glasse and her immortal saying1 8,first catch your hare1 then cook it40 ,alas and alack1 ,mrs4 ,glasse never existed--8there never was no sich person0--and1 moreover1 the cookery book bearing her name1 in none of its many editions1 contains the oft-quoted words4 ,the actual facts1 although1 indeed1 these are open to a certain amount of dubiety1 appear to be as follows4 ,in ,boswell's 8,johnson0 there are several references to one ,edward ,dilly1 who with his brother ,charles carried on a flourishing book-shop in the ,poultry4 ,dr4 ,johnson often dined with these estimable men1 and at their table met most of the wits and scholars of the day4 ,the great lexicographer referred to the brothers as his 8worthy friends40 ,it is on record that ,edward ,dilly1 in the presence of ,boswell1 ,mayo1 ,miss ,seward1 and the ,duke of ,bedford's tutor1 the ,rev4 ,mr4 ,beresford1 said to ,dr4 ,johnson1 8,mrs4 ,glasse's #8,cookery1' which is the best1 was written by ,dr4 ,hill4 ,half the trade knows this40 ,now this ,dr4 ,john ,hill 7not ,aaron ,hill1 as assumed by ,mr4 ,waller7 was a rather interesting personality4 ,he was a brilliant man in many directions1 who misused his talents1 and devoted his energies to so many various professions that it is not surprising to learn that he succeeded permanently in none4 ,it is known of him that he was at different times apothecary1 actor1 pamphleteer1 journalist1 novelist1 dramatist1 herbalist1 naturalist1 and quack-doctor4 ,he took a degree at ,st4 ,andrews1 and his nickname was 8,dr4 ,atall40 ,he married the sister of the then ,lord ,ranelagh1 and by some manner of means got himself decorated with the ,swedish order of the ,polar ,star1 on the strength of which he paraded himself as ,sir ,john ,hill4 ,no one1 however1 appears to have taken him at his own appraisement1 for he was the general butt of wits1 epigrammatists1 and lampoonists4 ,his death was attributed to the use of his own gout remedy1 and these lines to him still survive3-- ,for physic and farces ,his equal there scarce is2 ,his farces are physic1 ,his physic a farce is4 ,well1 this same ,john ,hill1 in his earlier and more obscure days1 was doing hack-work for the booksellers1 and also following the business of an apothecary in ,st4 ,martin's ,lane4 ,this must have been in the year #agdd or #agde4 ,he was struck 7as who might not have been7 by the ease with which a new cookery book might be compiled by extracting the best recipes from scores of old ones1 and rehashing them with original remarks and new settings4 ,he had plenty of material to work upon4 ,the best-known cookery books prior to that date were1 according to ,dr4 ,kitchiner 7who wrongly dates ,mrs4 ,glasse #ageg71 ,sarah ,jackson's 8,cook's ,director10 ,la ,chapelle's 8,modern ,cook10 ,kidder's 8,receipts10 ,harrison's 8,family ,cook10 8,adam's ,luxury and ,eve's ,cookery10 8,the ,accomplish'd ,housewife10 8,lemery on ,food10 ,arnaud's 8,alarm to all ,persons touching their ,health and ,lives10 ,smith's 8,cookery10 ,hall's 8,royal ,cookery10 ,dr4 ,salmon's 8,cookery10 8,the ,compleat ,cook10 and many more4 ,hill accordingly made up his book1 and his introduction was certainly ingenuous and modest2 one phrase will prove this3 8,if ,i had not wrote in the high polite style1 ,i hope ,i shall be forgiven2 for my intention is to instruct the lower sort40 ,the sly dog knew his public1 and this is further proved by his not putting his book to the world through a bookseller1 but publishing it himself1 and evolving an entirely new method of distribution4 ,among his friends he numbered the ingenious ,mrs4 ,ashburn1 or ,ashburner1 as it is spelt in some of the later editions4 ,this good lady kept a glass and china shop in ,fleet ,street1 hard by ,temple ,bar1 and her customers came from the fashionable squares of ,bloomsbury and ,st4 ,james4 ,hill made an arrangement with ,mrs4 ,ashburn1 whereby she sold his book over her counter and recommended it warmly to all the ladies who called at her shop4 ,in order to make the illusion of authorship more complete1 a female name was wanted for the title page4 ,what could be more simple than 8,mrs4 ,glasse10 seeing that ,mrs4 ,ashburn kept a glass shop8 ,the exact title of the magnum opus ran1 8,the ,art of ,cookery made ,plain and ,easy1 which far exceeds anything yet published4 ,by a ,lady4 ,printed for the author and sold at ,mrs4 ,ashburn's1 a china shop1 the corner of ,fleet ,ditch1 #agde40 ,the actual name of ,mrs4 ,glasse did not1 however1 appear on the title page until the issue of the third edition1 for the book was a great success from the first2 every one came to ,mrs4 ,ashburn's to buy it1 and its popularity vastly helped the glass and china trade4 ,about fourteen years ago a lively discussion as to the authentic authorship of ,mrs4 ,glasse filled several columns in the newspapers1 the principal correspondents being ,mr4 ,w4 ,f4 ,waller and ,mr4 ,g4 ,a4 ,sala4 ,it was suggested that 8first catch your hare0 was a misprint for 8first case your hare40 ,mr4 ,waller proved that neither of these passages occurred in any known edition of the book1 although case1 meaning 8to skin10 would have been entirely legitimate and in place4 ,shakespeare says in 8,all's ,well ,that ,ends ,well03-- ,we'll make you some sport with the fox ere we case him ,and a reference to ,beaumont and ,fletcher's 8,love's ,pilgrimage0 gives the lines-- ,some of them knew me1 ,else had they cased me like a coney4 ,the actual phrase used is 8,first cast your hare10 or1 in another edition1 8,take your hare1 and when it is cast40 ,this simply means flayed or skinned1 and was commonly used at the time4 ,the verb 8to scotch0 or 8to scatch0 is ,east ,anglian1 and has the same meaning4 ,so much for the authenticity of the quotation4 ,curiously enough1 in the newspaper controversy above referred to1 ,george ,augustus ,sala strongly supported the claims of ,mrs4 ,glasse herself as the real author1 and there certainly appears to be some circumstantial evidence as to a lady of that name who was 8habit-maker to the ,royal family0 about that period1 although her connexion with the culinary art is not to be traced4 ,incidentally ,sala mentions a receipt from a cookery book written by 8,an ingenious ,gaul0 towards the middle of the seventeenth century1 which begins with what he terms 8,a ,culinary ,truism10 since changed into 8,a proverbial platitude0--namely1 the words 8pour faire un civet1 prenez un livre40 ,this is1 however1 of course merely a commonplace of the kitchen1 and1 according to the learned authority of ,dr4 ,thudichum1 the imperative of prendre has not the catching meaning apparently attached to it by ,sala4 ,abraham ,hayward1 ,q4,c41 whose 8,art of ,dining10 a reprint of certain 8,quarterly ,review0 articles1 must always remain one of the greatest classics of ,english gastronomical literature1 says that ,mrs4 ,glasse's cookery book was written by ,dr4 ,hunter1 of ,york4 ,this is1 of course1 an egregious error4 ,dr4 ,hunter was the author of 8,culina ,famulatrix ,medicin2 or1 ,receipts in ,modern ,cookery0 7#ahjd1 fourth edition71 with the delightful dedication1 8,to those gentlemen who freely give two guineas for a ,turtle ,dinner at the ,tavern1 when they might have a more wholesome one at ,home for ,ten ,shillings1 this work is humbly dedicated02 and an exquisite frontispiece of a pig1 by ,carr1 headed 8,transmigration02 but he was in no way responsible for ,mrs4 ,glasse4 ,illustration3 ,,les ,,audiences ,d',,un ,,gourmand 7,a4 ,b4 ,l4 ,grimod de la ,reynire inv4 #ahjd7 ,to face page #hi ,the case is very fairly summed up by ,mrs4 ,joseph ,pennell in 8,my ,cookery ,books40 ,she says1 speaking of ,mrs4 ,glasse3 8,her fame is due1 not to her genius1 for she really had none1 but to the fact that her own generation believed there was no such person1 and after generations believed in her as the author of a phrase she never wrote40 ,there really seems no more to be said on the matter4 ,it matters little1 after all1 whether ,mrs4 ,glasse really existed or not2 anyhow1 some of her precepts are excellent and endure to this day4 ,she preached thorough mastication as a primary rule for good digestion4 ,this is thoroughly sound and praiseworthy4 8,most men dig their graves with their teeth10 so says an old ,chinese proverb1 meaning1 no doubt1 that we all eat too much1 and too fast1 and too often1 and too promiscuously4 ,the propriety of eating slowly ought always to be remembered4 ,mr4 ,gladstone's thirty-two bites are historical4 ,napoleon was a terribly fast eater1 and this habit is supposed to have paralysed him on two of the most critical occasions of his life1 the battles of ,leipzig and ,borodino1 which he might have converted into decisive and influential victories by pushing his advantages as he was wont4 ,on each of these occasions he was known to have been suffering from indigestion4 ,on the third day at ,dresden1 too1 the ,german novelist ,hoffmann1 who was present in the town1 asserts that the ,emperor would have done much more than he did but for the effects of a shoulder of mutton stuffed with onions4 ,it is a certain fact1 although difficult to prove by statistics1 that a large proportion of the drink consumed by the working-classes is directly due to the bad cooking which they have to endure in their homes4 ,improve the workman's cuisine1 and you will automatically lessen the drink bill4 ,this is a point of view which philanthropists and temperance folk might adopt with immense advantage1 and with practically immediate results4 ,dr4 ,max ,einhorn has recently written on the subject of correct eating1 which he divides into three distinct headings3 ,tachyphagia1 ,bradyphagia1 and ,euphagia4 ,the first of these is the common evil of hasty eating1 in which the food is not sufficiently masticated1 and hence enters the stomach without being properly insalivated and comminuted4 ,besides the deleterious mechanical effect1 tachyphagia also encourages the taking of large quantities of food in too short a time1 as well as its consumption too hot or too cold4 ,the rising generation is going to fight tachyphagia tooth and nail--especially tooth4 ,it is being taught wisely and well by the disciples of the ,cookery and ,food ,association how to improve the family digestion1 and there is an old saying to the effect that digestion is the business of the cook1 indigestion that of the doctor4 ,it cannot be too often or too forcibly impressed upon the so-called working-classes1 and upon a good many other classes of society also1 that good cooking does not mean waste and extravagance1 but1 on the contrary1 that it connotes economy and frugality4 ,a daughter who can cook well is tantamount to possessing a ,savings-,bank account4 ,are you a ,euphagist8 ,perhaps1 like the immortal ,m4 ,jourdain1 of ,molire1 you may have been one all your life--and never knew it4 ,anyhow1 it is a question which is being bandied about at dinners just now a good deal1 and as very few people know what a ,euphagist really is1 it may be as well to explain4 ,briefly then1 ,euphagists are the modern exponents of the old adage1 8,laugh and grow fat40 ,as a sect1 or a race1 or a cult1 or whatever they may please to call themselves1 they refuse to take anything seriously at meal-times1 which is an entirely sound and philosophical theory4 ,the learned ,german professor above referred to is the inventor1 or discoverer1 or resuscitator of the idea1 and his doctrine is summed up in the brief instruction3 ,bite everything twenty times1 don't worry whilst eating1 laugh at everything--and acquire sound health4 ,after all1 it is a tried truism that there is no digestive as efficacious as hearty laughter4 ,a solemn diner1 especially if he dine often alone1 is almost invariably dyspeptic2 whereas a bright1 cheery man or woman1 who has a keen sense of humour1 and sees the comic side of most things1 is rarely a sufferer from indigestion4 8,even our digestion is governed by angels10 said ,william ,blake1 the artist-poet1 and 7if you will but resist the trivial inclination to substitute 8bad angels07 is there really any greater mystery than the process by which beef is turned into brains1 and jam into beauty8 ,of course we do not laugh enough--at the utmost we giggle unmusically4 ,listen to the conversation in general at any restaurant1 or even any dinner party2 you will rarely hear a really hearty laugh4 ,it is as extinct as silver pergnes or peacock-pie4 ,it is told of an ,american dining at the ,carlton one night that1 struck by the comparative silence of all the diners1 he asked one of the waiters3 8,say1 does nobody ever laugh here80 ,the reply came pat enough3 8,yes1 sir1 ,i believe there have been one or two complaints about it lately40 ,are we too solemn1 or too dull1 or too afraid of shocking our neighbours8 ,it was not always so4 ,according to that delightful work1 8,the ,household of ,sir ,thomas ,more03 8,what rare sport we had with a mummery we called #8,the ,triall of ,feasting4' ,dinner and ,supper were brought up before my ,lord ,chief ,justice1 charg'd with ,murder4 ,their accomplices were ,plum-pudding1 ,mince-,pye1 ,drunkenness1 and such-like4 ,being condemned to hang by ye neck1 ,i1 who was ,supper1 stuft out with ,i cannot tell you how manie pillows1 began to call lustilie for a confessor1 and on his stepping forthe1 commenct a list of all ye fitts1 convulsions1 spasms1 payns in ye head1 and so forthe1 ,i had inflicted on this one and t'other40 ,in those days1 no doubt1 they did not require to adopt the tenets of ,euphagism1 they were well enough without it4 ,to-day1 however1 as a change1 and a delightful one too1 from the hundred and one food-fads which abound1 a general adoption of ,euphagism would seem to promise brighter meals1 more fun1 and better health4 ,among other aids to digestion which are flagrantly neglected is the taking of one's food in the open air whenever the thermometrical conditions of our somewhat erratic climate render it possible4 ,just exactly why we take every opportunity of dining in the open air when we are abroad1 and carefully fight shy of it1 under more or less similar circumstances1 when we are at home1 is one of those questions which are unsolved1 and apparently unsolvable4 ,our distaste for ,british coal may be one answer to the conundrum1 and another may be not unconnected with our national shyness at being seen eating our meals in public by our fellow-countrymen4 ,foreigners1 of course1 don't count4 ,opportunity is not lacking1 in ,london at any rate1 for open-air dining4 ,it can be done at several of the hotels1 and in the summer there is ,earl's ,court1 where1 despite certain obvious drawbacks of access and other things1 it can be enjoyed without much discomfort4 ,but these are1 after all1 only town delights1 and not comparable to a dinner on a ,july evening in the open air in the country4 ,one such lingers most pleasantly in my memory4 ,it was at a charming house in ,hampshire4 ,we dined on a marble terrace1 on which soft rugs had been placed4 ,the night was still enough for the candles on the table to burn without guttering4 ,below the terrace was a rose-garden1 full of bloom1 and in a shrubbery1 not too close to the house1 a ,hungarian band played discreetly4 ,the dinner1 according to my recollection1 was not extraordinarily good1 but whatever it may have been1 the surroundings1 the mise en scne1 were such that almost anything would have been appetizing and delightful4 ,why cannot more of this sort of thing be done8 ,we cannot all possess marble terraces1 rose-gardens1 and ,hungarian bands2 but the permutations of the idea are innumerable1 and ,i beg to present it to summer hostesses for development and improvement4 ,exigencies of climate will probably never permit us to realize the al fresco meals suggested by a ,watteau1 a ,boucher1 or a ,fragonard1 and it is1 indeed1 more than questionable whether the ,french cuisine1 which was flourishing round and about that period1 was ever designed for the dner sur l'herbe1 which is1 and was1 an essentially bourgeois meal4 ,at any rate1 a curious old book in four volumes1 8,les ,soupers de la ,cour2 ou ,l',art de ,travailler toutes sortes d',alimens10 by ,menon1 which was published in ,paris au ,lys d',or in #agee1 contains many appallingly long menus1 some comprising five services and forty or more dishes1 expressly designed to be eaten out of doors4 ,no less an authority than ,carme1 however1 says that these menus 7and they are certainly extraordinarily elaborate7 were the result of pure imagination on the part of feu ,m4 ,menon1 and were never actually carried out4 ,in our days even our shooting lunches tend to greater extent than can usefully be accommodated on the grass2 and we are accordingly bidden to a farm-house1 a tent1 or sometimes a garnished barn4 ,the lunch under a hedge1 unloaded from the pony and spread temptingly on the grass1 is almost a thing of the past1 which1 according to some old-fashioned fogies1 is a pity4 ,be that as it may1 there is one open-air lunch which can never be altogether improved away4 ,that is the river lunch1 either in a punt or a skiff1 with a table deftly made of the sculls and the stretchers4 ,moreover1 it has this inestimable advantage3 it is practically impossible for more than two to partake of a boat lunch with comfort4 ,it can1 of course1 be done1 but at a sacrifice of leg room--and other things4 ,of course the more dignified motor-launch lunches1 served at a real table1 do not count1 for are they not the same as those eaten on dry land8 ,it was1 ,i think1 the late ,sir ,william ,vernon ,harcourt who once remarked that 8we are all ,socialists now40 ,by the same token we may say to-day1 8,we are all motorists now10 and really1 taking it by and large1 the luncheon part of a motor trip is by no means the least interesting4 ,that ,british hotels1 with very few exceptions1 leave much to be desired is the tritest of truisms4 ,bad cookery1 shocking attendance1 and old-fashioned appointments1 combined with disproportionate expense1 are almost universal1 and a big fortune awaits any ,boniface who1 with a good house on a much-frequented road1 instals a really good cook1 preferably a ,frenchman and his wife1 not necessarily a high-priced individual1 and makes a speciality of well-cooked1 daintily served1 appetizing lunches and dinners4 ,we have all met1 only too frequently1 the miserable sham lamb1 which is mere mutton saucily disguised with mint2 the nearly raw cold beef2 the maltreated chop2 the apologetic steak2 the absurd parody of a salad2 the sad and heavy apple tart2 and the anything but real ,cheddar cheese4 ,all these things are absurd and quite unnecessary4 ,it is really just as easy to cook a good dinner as a bad one4 ,experto crede4 ,the usual alternative for the foregoing bill of fare is a cheap and nasty imitation of a ,french menu1 where nothing is true to name1 and only the frills on the cutlets are what they pretend to be4 ,it really should not be difficult to give a well-cooked fillet of sole1 a tender chicken1 an omelet aux fines herbes1 and a dish of vegetables in season1 sauts au beurre2 but if you asked for a lunch of this sort at a wayside ,british inn you would be put down at once as a lunatic4 ,why8 ,the question of packing a motor lunch is one of some difficulty and niceness4 ,personally1 ,i do not for one moment believe in those elaborate ready-fitted baskets1 of which the makers are so inordinately proud4 ,such a basket seldom fits the lunch1 and ,i find by experience that a good-sized empty basket of convenient shape is far more practical4 ,the cutlery1 glass1 and china may be fixed1 as a matter of convenience1 although ,i do not consider even that to be necessary1 for in packing up one is always trying to fit a table-knife into the place made for a teaspoon4 ,my ideal basket or hamper is quite bare inside 7to begin with71 and the cates1 bottles1 knives1 forks1 and spoons are packed therein1 tightly and carefully1 so as to prevent shaking and rattling4 ,a good method of keeping a salad fresh and crisp1 by the way1 is to hollow out a loaf of bread1 cut off a slice at the top in the form of a lid1 and pack the salad inside4 ,japanese paper serviettes are useful2 little and big cardboard plates and dishes are to be bought for a trifle2 fruit travels best if surrounded with green leaves2 ,devonshire cream in pots is an appreciable luxury2 coffee can be made in the cafetire gourmet1 if boiling water be handy4 ,and1 lastly1 don't forget the corkscrew6 ,according to the calendar1 spring begins officially on #ba ,march4 ,but the restaurateurs can beat ,dame ,nature1 who1 presumably1 edits the calendar 7another lady's paper671 by at least six weeks4 ,for the season of primeurs commences six weeks earlier1 and coming before their time1 they are appreciated all the more for their vernal suggestion of the flavour of the real thing1 arriving in due season when all the world and his wife may eat thereof4 ,early green peas1 for instance1 which have hitherto been imported from ,algiers1 come from ,nice1 also the famous ,lauris giant asparagus1 white and succulent4 ,this earliest open-air asparagus1 of indubitable excellence1 is to be had at about thirty-eight to forty-five shillings per bundle of fifty heads4 ,it is worth the price4 ,now too is the time to eat the real ,pauillac lamb1 reared on the salt marshes of ,pauillac1 young1 fat1 white1 and so luscious that it melts in the mouth4 ,the whole young lamb barely weighs fourteen pounds1 and a cut of this veritable pr sal1 so often badly imitated and misnamed1 is worth a king's ransom4 ,but perpend when you order the dish at a restaurant4 ,the matre d'htel will recommend a leg1 because it has the better appearance2 the knowledgeable diner1 however1 will inevitably prefer the shoulder1 which is the quintessence of delicacy4 ,according to ,m4 ,roche1 of ,duke ,street1 ,adelphi1 the greatest authority on primeurs in ,london1 early spring is the time beyond all others to indulge in the toothsome crtes de coq1 or cockscombs1 without which no self-respecting dish la financire is complete4 ,the haricots verts gris1 from ,spain1 are also in excellent condition4 ,they are not much to look at1 but the flavour is just exquisite4 ,they cost about three shillings a pound4 ,the far-famed poulet du ,mans and equally attractive poularde de ,bresse are on the market at about twelve and sixpence each1 but there is1 ,i regret to say1 a deal of fiction attending the appearance of these plump and pleasing birds on the usual ,london restaurant bill of fare4 ,either of them forms an imposing line on the menu1 but see that you get the real ,french bird1 and not the ordinary ,surrey barn-door fowl1 which1 however good in its way--and ,i should be the last to underrate the product of my own county--is of distinctly inferior flavour compared with its better-bred ,gallic cousin4 ,the timely primeurs in the way of salads are numerous3 the mche is in excellent condition1 and so is the barbe de capucin1 duly blanched in cellars2 the ,chicore de ,bruxelles is a welcome change2 and although the romaine at one and sixpence each are expensive1 they are large-hearted and good of their kind4 ,the craze1 however1 for early vegetables may easily be overdone4 ,a rather well-known gourmet1 who has a place in the country1 grows all his 8early-out-of-the-season0 stuff under glass4 ,he was entertaining some friends in the month of ,may1 and gave them very excellent new potatoes1 boasting the while of their rarity4 8,my good man10 said a guest1 8there is really nothing at all extraordinary in getting new potatoes in ,may1 one can eat them anywhere40 ,but he had reckoned without his host4 8,of course you can10 was the reply1 8if you want ordinary new potatoes4 ,these of mine are early potatoes of next season but one60 8,if ,i drink any more10 said ,lady ,coventry at ,lord ,hertford's table1 8if ,i drink any more1 ,i shall be muckibus40 8,lord60 said ,lady ,mary ,coke1 8what is that80 8,oh10 was the reply1 8it is ,irish for sentimental40 ,this was dinner-table conversation one hundred and fifty years ago1 teste ,horace ,walpole4 ,they were franker in those days4 8,this wine10 said a notable host to one ,mr4 ,pocock of ,bristol1 8costs me six shillings a bottle40 8,does it10 asked the guest1 with a quaint look of gay reproof2 8then pass it round1 and let me have another six penn'orth60 ,in the eighteenth century1 ,sir ,walter ,besant tells us1 people habitually ate and drank too much2 citizens and aldermen grew portentously fat2 well-bred people would gnaw bones with their fingers at public banquets2 an imperial quart of ale was a day's ordinary allowance1 and a man would drink his six bottles of port at a sitting4 ,another illustration of a lusty appetite may be quoted from the ,memoirs of ,sir ,walter ,scott4 ,he and his friend1 ,mr4 ,shortreed1 on one of those ,liddesdale raids when he was so brisk-hearted and jovial1 rode over one morning from ,clenchhead to breakfast with ,thomas ,elliott of ,tuzzliehope4 ,before starting at six o'clock1 just to lay their stomachs1 they had a couple of ducks and some ,london porter1 and were1 nevertheless1 well disposed on their arrival at ,tuzzliehope for a substantial breakfast1 with copious libations of whisky punch1 which did not in any degree incapacitate them1 for they were able to pursue their journey1 picking up fragments of border minstrelsy as they went along4 ,and it was not only on country excursions that meat and drink were consumed ad libitum2 the ordinary diet of the men of the period was what we would call redundant1 and their feasts were ,gargantuan4 ,a dinner given by ,james ,ballantyne on the birth-eve of a novel is thus described3-- ,the feast was gorgeous1 an aldermanic display of turtles and venison with the suitable accompaniments of iced punch1 potent ale1 and generous ,madeira4 ,when the cloth had been drawn and many toasts had been honoured and songs sung1 the claret and olives made way for broiled bones and a mighty bowl of punch1 and when a few glasses of the hot beverage had restored their powers1 the guests were ready to listen to the new romance1 read aloud by ,ballantyne ore rotundo4 ,a novel1 under these circumstances1 especially if of the somewhat lengthy and descriptive nature current at that period1 must have been at once stimulating1 satisfying1 and soporific4 ,there is authority and to spare as to the comparative plethora of food which was piled on the table to incite1 provoke and assuage the decidedly healthy appetites of our forbears4 ,in ,no4 #adh of 8,the ,tatler10 ,addison writes3-- 8,at last ,i discovered1 with some joy1 a pig at the lower end of the table1 and begged a gentleman that was near to cut me a piece of it4 ,upon which the gentleman of the house said with real civility3 #8,i am sure you will like the pig1 for it was whipt to death4'0 ,in those days a sucking-pig was supposed to acquire greater succulence through flagellation4 ,what with burning down a house 7although only a ,chinese one7 to make roast pork1 and flogging a baby1 the pigs must have had rather a hard time4 ,an eighteenth-century pig underwent various vicissitudes from which a twentieth-century pig is exempt4 ,goethe has a story in his 8,campaign in ,france0 that1 after a long and tiring fight1 some of ,prince ,louis ,ferdinand's soldiers looted a heavy locked-up kitchen-dresser1 in which they heard something heavy rolling about4 ,they concluded it was food1 and as they were well-nigh famished they took it out to the camp and broke it open4 ,to their horror and disgust1 all it contained was a weighty cookery book4 ,however1 they made the best of a bad job1 and as they had no supper1 they sat round the camp fire and one man after the other read out a succulent receipt from the book1 and thus they tried to pretend that they were enjoying a gorgeous supper4 ,this is1 indeed1 the true spirit of appreciative gastronomy1 and the table-manners of these hungry but easily appeased warriors must have been the quintessence of simplicity and good taste4 ,for1 after all1 a dinner in its diurnal regularity is the most perennial of delights4 ,bulwer ,lytton1 in 8,pelham10 says3-- 8,a buried friend may be replaced1 a lost mistress renewed1 a slandered character be recovered1 even a broken constitution restored2 but a dinner once lost is irremediable2 that day is for ever departed2 an appetite once thrown away can never1 till the cruel prolixity of the gastric agent is over1 be regained4 ,il y a tant de matresses 7says the admirable ,corneille71 il n'y a qu'un diner40 ,speaking of the close of the ,tudor period1 ,william ,harrison1 a contemporary historian1 writes3-- 8,i might here talke somewhat of the great silence that is used at the tables of the honourable and wiser sorte generallie over all the realme 7albeit that too much deserveth no commendation1 for it belongeth to guests to be neither muti nor loquaces7 likewise the moderate eating and drinking that is dailie seene1 and finallie of the regard that each hath to keepe himselfe from note of surfetting and drunkenesse 7for which cause salt meat1 except beefe1 bacon1 and porke1 are not anie whit esteemed1 and yet these three may be much powdered72 but as in the rehearsal thereof ,i should commend the nobleman1 merchant1 and frugall artificer1 so ,i could not cleare the meaner sort of husbandman of verie much bobbling 7except it be here and there some odd yeoman7 with whom he is thought to be merriest that talketh of most ribaldrie44440 ,very similar were the precepts taught to our remoter forefathers4 ,in the 8,accomplish'd ,lady ,rich's ,closet of ,rareties1 or ,ingenious ,gentlewoman's ,delightful ,companion0 7#afec7 ladies are told when carving at their own table to 8distribute the best pieces first1 and it will appear very comely and decent to use a fork40 ,the lady is also requested to sit at table 8with a straight body10 and 8even though she were an aunt10 to refrain from resting her elbows upon the table4 ,she must not 8by ravenous gesture display a voracious appetite10 and if 8she talked with her mouth full1 or smacked her lips like a pig1 or swallowed spoon meat so hot that tears came to her eyes1 she would be taken for an underbred person1 even if she were really an ,earl's daughter40 ,but folk were almost exaggeratedly delicate in those days4 ,it is related by the worthy ,dr4 ,walker in his 8,sufferings of the ,clergy0 that a pious parish priest was ejected from his cure by the ,commonwealth ,puritans because he was formally accused of 8eating custard scandalously40 ,but the etiquette of the table dates back to the very earliest ages4 ,of the five hundred and sixty-five ,chinese books on ,behaviour1 catalogued by a learned mandarin1 no fewer than three hundred and sixty-one refer directly to the ceremonial of the ,chinese dinner-table4 ,it is remarkable too that among the ,sybarites it was customary to invite ladies to dinner a year beforehand1 ostensibly to give them time to beautify themselves4 ,in the year #aeeg one ,seager published his 8,schoole of ,vertue1 a booke of good ,nourture for ,children10 wherein the following instructions are set forth in rhyme4 ,when thy parentes downe to the table shall syt1 ,in place be ready for the purpose most fyt2 ,with sober countenance1 lookynge them in the face1 ,thy hands holding up1 thus begin ,grace2 8,geve thankes to ,god with one accorde ,for that shall be set on this borde10 ,and be not careful what to eate1 ,to eche thynge lyvynge the ,lord sends meate2 ,for foode he wyll not se you peryshe1 ,but wyll you fede1 foster and cheryshe2 ,take well in worth what he hath sent ,at thys time be therwith content ,praysinge ,god6 ,so treatablie speakynge as possibly thou can1 ,that the hearers thereof may thee understan1 ,grace beynge said1 low cursie make thou1 ,sayinge 8much good may it do you40 ,finally1 the following epitaph on a gourmand1 written by an unknown poet1 seems to sum up the true inwardness of the gastronomic ideal3-- ,ci-gt un gourmand insigne ,dont l'exercice le plus digne ,ft de manger tout propos4 ,se voyant rduit l'extrme1 ,il aurait mang la mort mme2 ,mais il n'y trouva que des os4 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,menus 8,i hope you'll have all you're thinkin' you're havin' an' more too1--but less if you'd like it40 ,the ,lunatic ,lady in ,,frank ,,stockton',s 8,rudder ,grange40 ,according to the old ,greek authorities1 the original ,seven ,sages of the kitchen were3 ,agris of ,rhodes1 who first taught the bone method of dressing fish2 ,nereus of ,corinth1 who made the conger a dish for the gods2 ,orion1 who invented white sauce2 ,chariades1 who achieved yellow sauce2 ,lampriadas1 who discovered brown sauce2 ,atlantus1 who made the most perfect restorative2 and ,euthynus1 who cooked vegetables so exquisitely that he was named ,lentillus4 ,these several gentlemen1 combined into one1 would not be all too learned in the niceties of gastronomy to be able to put together a modern dinner menu4 ,nowadays we want something more than mere quantity4 ,the ,gargantuan repasts of our forefathers are not for us4 ,in those days1 maybe 7or perhaps not71 unlimited exercise1 hunting1 and the like made these gross meals comparatively digestible2 but we live in more delicate times1 and want our viands fewer in number and more carefully cooked1 with less added flavour and more of their own natural juices4 ,it is very true that one-half of the world does not know how the other half dines4 ,we follow one another in sheep-like fashion round the few better-known restaurants1 eating the same dinners1 drinking the same wines1 and seeing the same people week after week1 in a dull monotony of sameness4 ,and yet there are a few quite nice1 respectable1 meetable sort of folk1 who1 with the cosmopolitan habit strong upon them1 know their ,london well enough to be able to dine every night in a different country1 and remain all the time within a shilling cab-fare of ,piccadilly4 ,how is it done1 you will ask8 ,it is really very simple4 ,say you want a ,french dinner1 light1 delicate1 and appetizing1 go to ,kettner1 in ,church ,street1 ,soho1 or to ,dieudonn1 in ,ryder ,street1 and you will find un petit diner trs-fin1 as good as you will obtain anywhere in ,paris4 ,if you patronize the former very old and very quaint establishment1 ask to look over the kitchens2 they are as neat and clean as those in a painting by an old ,dutch master4 ,as to the menu1 you cannot do better than leave yourself in the hands of the matre d'htel4 ,if you are inclined to dine l',italienne1 go to ,pagani's1 in ,great ,portland ,street1 and order ,minestrone2 ,sle la ,pagani2 ,pollio alla ,contrabandista1 and macaroni2 take plenty of ,parmesan cheese with everything1 and imagine yourself in ,florence4 ,do not forget to drink the special ,lacrima ,christi1 and inspect the 8autograph-room0 on the second floor4 ,again1 suppose you desire to spend a ,teutonic evening and regale yourself on ,german delicacies4 ,hie then to the old ,gambrinus1 in ,regent ,street1 run by the excellent ,oddenino of the ,imperial4 ,call the ,ober ,kellner and bestell yourself ,fleisch ,brhe1 ,karpfe in ,bier1 ,kalbskotlette mit ,celeri salat1 and ,dampfnudeln4 ,as the ,american critic remarked3 8,if you like that sort of thing that's just the sort of thing you'll like40 ,i have lunched ,turkishly in the ,city off ,kabobs1 kid stuffed with pistachio1 and most excellent rice-milk and cinnamon4 ,there used to be a ,spanish restaurant in ,soho1 where they gave you ,escudella1 ,estofado1 and the world-renowned ,gaspacho2 but ,i rather think that this place came to an untimely end1 owing to lack of patronage4 ,many ,russian dishes1 such as ,bortsch1 ,blinis1 ,koulbiac1 and ,shtshi1 are to be met with on the ordinary menus of the best restaurants2 and the ,swedish ,smorgasbord1 or exaggerated ,zakouska of the ,russians1 is occasionally put before one as hors d'uvre la ,sudoise1 which is1 of course1 quite wrong1 because the real thing ought to be eaten standing up at a side-table1 and not sitting down at the dinner-table4 ,however1 these are the necessary tributes to convention4 8ufs la coque6 ,of course not6 ,i want hens' eggs1 ordinary barn-door fowls'4 ,what silly people these foreigners are60 ,the average ,englishman travelling abroad has really not got much beyond that stage of insular and ignorant prejudice4 ,but why should he go abroad at all1 when here in his native ,london he can1 if he so desires1 get a dinner cooked after 7sometimes very much after7 the fashion of almost any country in the world8 ,a dining tour in ,london1 covering the cuisines of a score of different nationalities1 is not difficult1 and1 moreover1 it is vastly instructing4 ,properly approached1 the cooks will be found to be only too glad to show what they can do in serving dishes of their own homeland4 ,they appreciate the compliment of being asked to illustrate their national bill of fare1 and1 as practically everything can be procured in ,london1 it is an interesting experiment to spend ten days in dining in foreign countries--and going home to one's own bed every night4 ,do you wish to cross that ridiculously disappointing ocean called the ,atlantic and try an ,american dinner8 ,come with me to the ,criterion and instruct the ,american chef to prepare the dinner on the lines shown below3-- ,chicken ,okra4 ,clam ,broth4 ,salt ,cod and ,hash4 ,oyster ,fritters4 ,mixed ,turkey and ,corn4 ,stuffed ,red ,peppers4 ,terrapin ,maryland4 ,chipped ,beef4 ,scalloped ,sweet ,potatoes4 ,cold ,slaw4 ,graham ,pudding4 ,new ,england ,indian ,pudding4 ,temperance ,punch4 ,this programme calls for little explanation4 ,the okra cooked with the chicken gives it a peculiar and quite delicious flavour4 ,the clam is a dulcet combination of the oyster1 the mussel1 and the scallop4 ,one of the most valuable products of the ,united ,states 7gastronomically speaking71 the terrapin must be eaten to be believed4 ,it must also be specially imported4 ,it is a species of turtle--but even more so--and quite exquisite in its subtlety4 ,new ,england ,indian pudding1 according to the recipe of ,mrs4 ,henry ,w4 ,blair1 wife of the now or former ,senator for ,new ,hampshire1 is compounded as follows3-- ,two quarts of milk1 one cup of meal1 one cup of molasses1 half a cup of sugar1 one teaspoonful of salt1 one teaspoon of cinnamon or ginger1 two eggs4 ,heat one quart of milk1 milk-warm1 then slowly stir in the meal1 and keep stirring gently until it thickens1 but does not quite boil4 ,remove from the stove and add the molasses1 sugar1 salt1 and spice4 ,then beat the eggs well and stir them in4 ,pour into the pudding-dish1 remove the mixing-spoon1 and turn the second quart of milk in4 ,send immediately to the oven without mixing1 and cook steadily for five hours4 ,there are a dozen ,chinese restaurants in ,london1 but they are in the ,east--the very far ,east--and you must make paradoxically for the ,west ,india ,dock ,road and then inquire of a policeman--who probably will not know4 ,this ,chinese menu given is a typical one4 ,,menu ,bow ,ha ,mai4 7,boiled ,prawns in ,oil47 ,chow ,chop ,suey4 7,bits of ,pork ,chops47 ,ham ob ,dan4 7,preserved ,eggs with ,ducks' ,gizzards47 ,ob ,gan ,bow ,vo ,toway4 7,ducks' ,livers and ,boiled ,ham47 ,chow ,ju ,aw4 7,boiled ,pork47 ,bow ,ny ,gwei4 7,cuttle ,fish47 ,yen ,wo ,gong4 7,pigeon ,eggs and ,birds' ,nest ,soup47 ,bow ,hai4 7,boiled ,crabs47 ,yuen ,tsyai4 7,rice ,cakes47 ,bow ,ob4 7,duck ,tongues and ,mushrooms47 ,ju ,tow ,ny ,gow4 7,fried ,roofs of the ,mouths of ,pigs47 ,chow ob ,jun4 7,ducks' ,feet47 ,lein ,chi ,gong4 7,lily-seed ,soup47 ,hong ,yin ,gong4 7,almond ,soup47 ,dein ,som4 7,sweetmeats47 ,yueh ,biung4 7,mincemeat47 ,gwoy ,zoo4 7,fruits47 ,kwoh ,zuh4 7,seeds47 ,cha ,sam ,soo4 7,tea and ,rice ,whisky47 ,from ,china to ,japan is not a far cry1 but ,i fear you cannot dine ,japanesily in the ,east2 you must come ,west1 and even then engage a special cook from the ,legation or the ,japanese ,club4 ,still it is to be done1 and this menu gives a series of titbits which are in themselves most appetizing4 ,you may feel inclined afterwards to go elsewhere and eat a chop1 but that is not the fault of the ,japanese cuisine1 but of your own large appetite4 ,,menu ,luimano4 7,fish ,soup47 ,shira4 7,bean ,soup47 ,ohira4 7,vegetable ,soup47 ,sashimi4 7,raw ,sliced ,fish47 ,nizakana4 7,boiled ,fish47 ,teriyaki4 7,roast ,fish47 ,shiwoyaki4 7,roast ,fish47 ,muchitori4 7,vegetables47 ,umani4 7,fish and ,vegetables47 ,trubonomoni4 7,vegetables47 ,gozen4 7,rice47 ,tsukemono4 7,pickles47 ,shoyu4 7,sauce47 ,saki4 ,in ,scandinavian restaurants1 which are to be found in the neighbourhood of the docks1 where ,danes1 ,swedes1 and ,norwegian sailors mostly congregate1 the food is quite excellent4 ,simple1 well cooked1 and very toothsome4 ,the ,swedish menu which ,i have given is not1 of course1 the sort of dinner that a ,dalarne peasant would get1 but the sort of thing that1 if you give proper notice1 can be prepared for you by a knowledgeable ,scandinavian cook4 ,,menu ,kraftor4 7,crayfish47 ,korvel ,soppa4 7,chervil ,soup47 ,kokt ,halmstad ,lax4 7,boiled ,salmon47 ,stekt ,sjotunga4 7,roasted ,soles47 ,kalfbrass ,arter4 7,stewed ,veal and ,peas47 ,brytbonor4 7,broad ,beans47 ,farska ,carotter4 7,fresh ,carrots47 ,kyckling4 7,chicken47 ,ungorre4 ,tomatsallad4 ,blandad ,fruvt4 7,fruit ,salad47 ,jordgubbar4 7,strawberries47 ,glacemarenger4 7,ice ,pudding47 ,for those who do not object to oil and garlic there is much that is attractive in the ,spanish cuisine4 ,there is only one place--as yet--in ,london where a real ,spanish dinner is to be had1 and then it must be specially ordered2 but there are several ,spanish chefs who1 on persuasion1 can be bribed to cook a dinner on the lines indicated4 ,,menu ,entremeses variados4 7,hors d'uvre47 ,sopa4 7,soup47 ,ostras a la ,espanola4 7,oysters47 ,pescado ,chambord4 7,fish47 ,pichones a la ,provenzal4 ,jamon y ,pavo con ,jalea de ,grosellas4 7,ham and ,gooseberry ,jelly47 ,salomillo de ternera con trufas4 ,ensalada4 7,salad47 ,esparragos4 7,asparagus47 ,quesos ,variados4 7,sweets47 ,the ,italian style of cookery must not be judged by the examples of it in the thousands of cheap restaurants scattered throughout ,london4 ,as a matter of fact they are mostly run by ,swiss1 either ,french-,swiss1 ,german-,swiss1 ,italian-,swiss1 or ,swiss-,swiss4 ,the real ,italian style of feeding is quite excellent1 and at most of the best ,west ,end restaurants they have at least one ,italian cook1 who1 if the dinner be intelligently ordered1 will be only too delighted to show his skill4 ,,menu ,antipasto4 ,vermicelli al ,brodo4 ,minestrone alla ,milanaise4 ,rombo1 salsa ,olandese4 ,gnocchi alla ,piemontese4 ,medaglione di ,manso all' ,italiana4 ,patate ,novelle4 ,anitra arrosto4 ,insalata4 ,pere al ,nebiolo4 ,gelato alla ,vaniglia4 ,there is an ,indian restaurant in ,stafford ,street which appeals to all ,anglo-,indians--and to many others who appreciate a real curry1 either dry or wet1 ,madras1 ,ceylon1 ,bombay1 or any other style4 ,the menu as follows can be cooked to perfection1 and it is quite quaint to be greeted by white-robed1 blue-turbaned attendants with a polite 8,salaam1 sahib60 ,they make good waiters1 too2 silent1 quick1 and deft4 ,,menu ,bhurta4 7,hors d'uvre47 ,shorwa4 7,soup47 ,muchee ,salna4 7,fish ,curry47 ,hulvan ,kabbab4 7,lamb ,cutlets47 ,teeter ,pallow4 7,partridge ,pilaff47 ,subzie ,chichkey4 7,vegetable ,curry47 ,mithau4 7,sweets47 ,meva4 7,fruit47 ,kava4 7,coffee47 ,where so many are good it would be invidious to say which is the best ,german restaurant in ,london1 and it would also be a gross mistake to imagine that a ,german dinner is all sauerkraut and sausage4 ,on the contrary1 good ,german cookery 7whether north or south7 is as good as in any other part of ,europe1 and in some respects better4 ,it can be sampled in several ,german restaurants in ,london4 ,i would advise all visitors at a ,german restaurant to try the ,prinz ,pckler1 an ice-pudding1 which may be singled out as being especially worthy of imitation4 ,about ,french cookery there is nothing new to be said1 because every one knows--or ought to know--that when it is good it is very good indeed1 and when it is bad--it is horrid4 ,in ,london it is not difficult to obtain examples both of the good and the horrid ,french styles4 ,the horrid will not be needed twice6 ,the real cuisine bourgeoise1 which does not attempt to disguise the true flavour of the meats with unholy sauces1 is nearly the very best in the world4 ,last1 but not least1 of all1 in all probability best of all1 is a real ,english menu1 and it is really difficult to say where it may best be ordered1 for the matre d'htel of a big restaurant looks askance at a bill of fare without one single ,french word in it1 not even an la4 ,a dear lady whose wit was better than her ,french pronunciation once said at a little dinner1 8,it is not so much the menu that matters1 as the men you sit next to40 ,and really the programme is not by any means as important as the cooking thereof4 ,old-fashioned ,christmas cookery was1 no doubt1 of a heavier and more serious nature than ours of to-day1 although the compounding of the historic plum-pudding seems to have been much the same4 ,here is the recipe of ,mr4 ,richard ,briggs1 8many years cook at the ,globe ,tavern1 the ,white ,hart1 and now at the ,temple ,coffee ,house40 ,it appears in his 8,english ,art of ,cookery10 published in #aghh3-- ,take a pound of flour1 and mix it into batter with half a pint of milk2 beat up the yolks of eight and the whites of four eggs1 a pound of beef suet shred fine1 a pound of raisins picked1 a pound of currants1 washed and picked1 half a nutmeg grated1 a teaspoonful of beaten ginger1 a little moist sugar1 a glass of brandy1 and a little lemon-peel shred fine4 ,mix it well together1 tie it up in a cloth1 and boil it four hours4 ,when it is done1 turn it out into a dish1 and garnish with powder sugar1 with melted butter1 sweet wine and sugar1 mixed in a boat4 ,this is a curious recipe1 which1 ,i think1 might work out very well4 ,my copy of this old book bears the following quaint inscription on the fly-leaf3 8,the gift of ,andrew ,newton1 ,esquire1 to the ,dean and ,chapter of ,lichfield for the use of the ,library of that ,cathedral40 ,what can the ,dean and ,chapter have wanted with a cookery book8 8,you can't please everybody10 as the old fisherman remarked to the grumbling angler who brought up a red-herring at the end of his line1 and there are doubtless some--many1 maybe--who prefer a less seasonable dinner than the stereotyped ,christmas meal4 ,for such this dainty and simple menu is humbly suggested3-- ,potage poule au pot ,henri ,,iv4 ,merlans la ,bretonne4 ,filet de ,buf la ,provenale4 ,chapons du ,mans rtis4 ,ragout de truffes4 ,fonds d',artichauts demi-glace4 ,bombe ,chantilly4 ,as a matter of fact1 this was the dinner given a short while ago in ,paris by the ,socit des ,amis des ,livres1 who know as much about cookery as they do about bookery4 ,it is worthy of record for its simplicity and completeness4 ,for those who like to be thoroughly conventional1 and yet at the same time to let sweet reasonableness attend their feasts1 let me recommend a ,christmas dinner fashioned on somewhat the following lines3-- ,consomm with ,italian paste4 ,oyster soup4 ,turbot1 ,hollandaise sauce with capers4 ,brill and ,tartare sauce4 ,turkey stuffed with chestnuts or fresh truffles4 ,fillet of beef1 horse-radish sauce4 ,souffl of fowl4 ,westphalian goose breast with winter spinach4 ,stewed celery4 ,plum pudding1 brandy sauce4 ,mince pies4 ,chartreuse of oranges4 ,welsh rabbit4 ,devilled biscuit4 ,this is a special ,christmas dinner prepared by the late ,sir ,henry ,thompson1 whose views on food and feeding are well known4 ,it is most certainly a very happy combination of the necessities and the delicacies of the season1 and as such needs no further recommendation4 ,it is perhaps especially applicable to country-house parties1 where both sexes are wont to have a pretty appetite4 8,science can analyse a pork chop1 and say how much of it is phosphorus and how much is protein1 but science cannot analyse any man's wish for a pork chop1 and say how much of it is hunger1 how much nervous fancy1 how much a haunting love of the beautiful4 ,the man's desire for the pork chop remains literally as mystical and ethereal as his desire for heaven40 ,now1 who wrote that ingenuous passage8 ,je vous le donne en trois4 ,charles ,lamb8 ,no4 ,g4 ,a4 ,sala8 ,no4 ,mr4 ,lecky8 ,certainly not6 ,it is by that inimitable humorist1 ,g4 ,k4 ,chesterton4 ,and it's quite true4 ,there is a most delectable little part of the turkey which the ,french euphoniously call le sot l'y laisse4 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 the celebrated gourmet1 was wont to say that it was the most exquisite morsel of flesh in the world4 ,travelling one day some miles from his country-seat1 he pulled up at a roadside inn for dinner4 ,the host regretted that he had nothing to offer the stranger4 8,but10 said the latter1 8,i see five turkeys hanging up there4 ,why not give me one of them80 ,the innkeeper was sorry1 but they were all ordered by a gentleman staying in the house4 8,surely he cannot want them all himself4 ,ask him to permit me to share his meal40 ,again the innkeeper had to refuse4 ,the gentleman in question was very particular4 ,he only ate one tiny little piece from each bird--le sot l'y laisse1 in fact4 ,more anxious than ever to know who this rival gourmet was who had the same tastes as himself1 de la ,reynire insisted on making his acquaintance4 ,he found it was his own son4 ,this is the menu of the ,queen's ,guard ,dinner1 ,st4 ,james's ,palace1 for ,friday1 #bc ,march1 #ahee4 ,considering that it is only fifty years old1 and therefore well within the memory of many living men1 it makes curiously quaint reading4 ,,menu ,les ,hutres4 ,potage la ,crcy aux crotons4 ,potage de ,macaroni au consomm4 ,la ,merluche sauce aux ufs4 ,les truites grilles la ,tartare4 ,saddle of ,mutton4 ,les ,poulets garnis d'une langue4 ,les ,ctelettes de mouton la ,soubise4 ,le vol au vent aux crvisses4 ,les ,kromeskys de ris de veau4 ,les filets de buf piqus sauce poivrade4 ,les pigeons and la pintade pique4 ,les ,pommes au riz4 ,les fondus en caisses4 ,la gele au noyeau4 ,les meringues la ,chantilly4 ,les ,epinards au jus4 ,la molle aux crotons4 ,such a deal of fine1 confused feeding would be deemed vulgar and ostentatious to-day4 ,the dinner could not have been served and eaten in less than a couple of hours1 and there is an appalling ponderosity of substantials which must have tried the mid-,victorian digestion to the uttermost4 ,in pleasing contrast to the foregoing1 ,i will quote a charming little dinner given in ,paris by a hostess who understands the art of menu-fashioning in the highest degree4 ,,menu ,hutres de ,marennes4 ,potage ,bonne ,femme4 ,filets de ,soles ,joinville4 ,selle d'agneau bouquetire4 ,salmis de bcasses aux truffes4 ,foie gras la ,souwaroff4 ,poulardes la ,parisienne4 ,curs de laitues la ,russe4 ,pointes d'asperges la crme4 ,glace ,lavallire4 ,gauffrettes4 ,few people know why an extra thick fillet of beef is called a ,chateaubriand1 and fewer still know how it ought to be cooked4 ,you may ask all the chefs in town1 and it is about thirty-three to one against your getting any historically precise information on the subject4 ,the story of the matter is briefly this4 ,the dish was first cooked in the year #ahjb at ,champeaux ,restaurant1 in the ,place de la ,bourse4 ,it was just at the period when ,chateaubriand published his most brilliant work1 8,le ,gnie du ,christianisme40 8,the profane wits of the kitchen0 thought that a good steak sent to the fire between two malefactor steaks was a fair parody of the title of the book4 ,the fillet or steak was cut so thick that by the ordinary method of cooking it might be burned on the surface whilst quite raw inside1 and therefore--although the original and authentic method is ignored nowadays--it was put upon the fire between two other slices of beef1 which1 if burned1 could be thrown away4 ,thus only is the ,chateaubriand properly cooked4 ,the title has really nothing to do with the garnishing or the sauce1 although the average matre d'htel will insist otherwise4 ,nevertheless the true story is as above4 ,chateaubriand was ,french ,ambassador at the ,court of ,st4 ,james in #ahbb4 ,it may be of interest to put on record here ,his ,majesty the ,king's ,derby ,day dinner at ,buckingham ,palace to the members of the ,jockey ,club4 ,here it is3-- ,,menu ,tortue ,claire4 ,crme de ,pois ,comtesse4 ,whitebait au ,naturel et la ,diable4 ,suprmes de ,truites la ,valenciennes4 ,zphires de ,cailles la ,montagne4 ,hanches de ,venaison1 ,sauce ,aigredoux4 ,selle d',agneau froide la ,nioise4 ,pommes de ,terre la ,jaucourt4 ,ortolans ,rtis4 ,poussins sur ,canaps4 ,salade de ,curs de ,romaines4 ,asperges d',argenteuil1 ,sauce ,mousseline4 ,pches la ,reine ,alexandra4 ,patisseries la ,parisienne4 ,cassolettes la ,jockey ,club4 ,petites ,glaces ,printanires4 ,friandises4 ,dessert4 ,from trustworthy accounts ,i am constrained to believe that royal banquets are like many other mundane things4 ,they look well1 they read well1 possibly they taste well1 but there is inevitably the sub-acid flavour of ,dead ,sea apples1 and the thoughtful observer may echo ,talleyrand's remark that whenever he perused a royal menu his thoughts involuntarily turned to pot-au-feu4 ,illustration3 ,,les ,r,,ves ,d',,un ,,gourmand 7,a4 ,b4 ,l4 ,grimod de la ,reynire inv4 #ahjh7 ,to face page #ace ,although some kings 7and queens too7 were undoubtedly valiant trenchermen 7and women71 yet it is an ascertained fact that the more luxury appears on the bill of fare1 the more frugal is the repast of majesty4 ,the third ,napoleon1 towards the end of his reign1 was forced to be so abstemious that1 when the most tempting plats jostled one another on his table1 he found himself obliged to dine off a cutlet and a cup of rice4 ,nowadays it is said that guests at a royal banquet refuse the most artistic creations1 and ask boldly for a cut of mutton4 ,however this may be1 it can be taken for granted that royal banquets are much like other meals in so far as anticipation1 appetite1 realization1 and digestion are concerned4 ,the great ,carme resigned his position as ,matre de ,bouche to ,george ,,iv1 after only a few weeks' service1 and at an honorarium of one thousand guineas a year 7guineas1 mark you1 there speaks the artist671 because ,his ,majesty showed no appreciation of his finest efforts1 but was continually asking for boiled beef4 ,nevertheless1 the royal cooks always rise to the occasion1 as the following interesting document will show4 ,the chef at ,windsor in #aheh was ,m4 ,pierre ,mouret4 ,this is the menu of the wedding dinner of the 7then7 ,crown ,prince of ,prussia1 father of the present ,kaiser1 to our own ,princess ,royal1 given by ,queen ,victoria at ,windsor ,castle on #ah ,january1 #aheh4 ,,menu ,,her ,,majesty',s ,,dinner ,potages4 ,a la ,tortue4 ,a la ,jardinire4 ,crme de riz la ,reine4 ,poissons4 ,saumons bouillis4 ,turbots bouillis4 ,filets de sole frits4 ,relevs4 ,pices de ,buf braises1 garnies de lgumes4 ,chapons truffs la ,prigueux4 ,entres4 ,kromeskis de ,crevettes4 ,ris de ,veau piqus la ,macdoine4 ,timbales de ,macaroni la ,milanaise4 ,ctelettes de ,mouton la pure de haricots4 ,petites ,croustades la pure de volaille4 ,ctelettes de ,poulets la ,tartare4 ,perdreaux la financire4 ,quenelles de ,livre garnies d'escalopes4 ,contre-flancs4 ,poulets la royale4 ,rts4 ,bcasses4 ,poulardes4 ,relevs4 ,gteaux de ,compigne4 ,poires au riz4 ,puddings de gingembre4 ,entremets4 ,epinards au velout4 ufs brouills aux truffes4 ,salade de ,volaille4 ,aspic de ,galantine4 ,biscuits et plombire4 ,dauphines la fleur d'orange4 ,gele de ,vanille4 ,blanc-manger ruban4 ,buffet4 ,sirloins of ,beef4 ,saddles of ,mutton4 ,haunches of ,venison4 ,among the cleverest and most spirituel of menus d'occasion is that of a ,french-,italian djeuner at the ,carlton ,hotel1 composed1 arranged1 and designed by ,m4 ,escoffier4 ,,menu ,l',,italie ,,et ,,la ,,france ,,table ,f ritot d'ufs la ,verd ,i ,r ouget de roche la ,loube ,t ,a mourettes a'agneau la ,tosc ,a ,n onnettes de poulet ,agns ,sore ,l ,c pes la ,rossin ,i ,e ugnie crme ,italienn ,e ,the double acrostic is most skilfully introduced1 and the lunch1 as such1 is quite a little work of art4 ,in the columns of the 8,academy10 some little while ago1 an ingenious contributor elaborated a menu without the use of a single ,french word4 ,it is doubtful1 however1 whether it will ever come into the realms of practical gastronomic usage4 ,it ran thus3-- ,,menu ,,bill ,,of ,,fare 7,old style1 obsolete7 7,new style7 ,hors d'uvres4 ,raw ,bits4 ,pot au ,feu4 ,pot on the ,fire4 ,pure de petits pois4 ,mash of ,little ,peas4 ,bouches aux ,hutres4 ,mouthfuls of ,oysters4 ,chaud-froid de ,saumon4 ,hot-cold of ,salmon4 ,vol-au-vent de ,volaille4 ,fowl ,fly-to-,wind4 ,petits ,filets mignons la 8,ducksy0 little ,fillets ,matre d',hotel4 to the ,butler4 ,noix de ,veau la ,nut of ,veal in the way ,jardinire4 of the ,gardener's wife4 ,pommes de terre sautes4 ,jumped ,potatoes4 ,asperges en branches3 ,asparagus in branches2 ,sauce ,mousseline4 ,muslin ,sauce4 ,timbales de ,fruits4 ,mugs of ,fruit4 ,crme renverse4 ,turned-up ,cream4 ,petits ,souffls de ,foie gras ,little ,blow-outs of fat ,liver4 ,such a meal as this1 to be thoroughly appreciated1 would no doubt have to be prepared by a ,chief or a ,blue ,cord4 ,a purely ,english dinner1 however1 is not so difficult to describe in plain straight-forward language4 ,such a one1 for instance1 as the ,festival ,dinner of the ,royal ,society of ,st4 ,george1 which ran thuswise3-- ,appetizers4 ,imperial 8,clear0 ,soup4 ,boiled ,hampshire ,salmon and ,cucumber4 ,thames ,whitebait devilled4 ,norfolk ,sweetbreads and ,truffles4 ,,the ,,roast ,,beef ,,of ,,old ,,england 7,devon ,baron74 ,yorkshire ,pudding4 ,english ,new ,potatoes and ,beans4 ,royal ,navy ,iced ,punch4 ,roast ,buckinghamshire ,duckling and ,apple ,sauce4 ,peas4 ,lettuce ,salad4 ,colchester ,asparagus4 ,braised ,berkshire ,ham4 ,trafalgar ,pudding4 ,colonial ,ice ,pudding4 ,dessert4 ,coffee4 ,the menu of a ,japanese luncheon given by the ,mikado at ,tokio makes curious reading1 although ,i am assured that its purely local features are assuaged by a leaven of ,european delicacies4 ,,menu ,suimono 7,soup74 ,night ,heron and ,shimeji 7a species of ,champignon74 ,kuchitori 7,hors d'uvres74 ,wild ,duck4 ,awabi 7,haliotis1 etc474 ,iashami 7uncooked ,fish74 ,tai1 ,kawatsukuri and ,arai 7two modes of preparing uncooked ,fish74 ,sunomono 7,mixed ,salad74 ,iced ,whale and ,mustard ,sauce4 ,yakimono 7,entres74 ,baked ,ai ,fish 7chawaninushi ,eel ,soup74 ,fried ,chicken and ,string ,beans4 ,anago and ,imo 7a species of ,eel and ,potato74 ,rice ,soup and ,quail4 ,pickles4 ,cake4 ,fruit4 ,a friend has sent me a curiosity from ,havana in the shape of a menu1 into the composition of every dish of which the banana entered in some shape or form4 ,as a triumph of skill and ingenuity ,i respect the menu1 but am thankful that ,i was not invited to partake of the repast4 ,here it is4 ,,menu ,soupe la ,banane avec ,crotons de ,banane4 ,crpes de ,banane avec ,gele de ,banane4 ,poulets l',etuve avec ,bananes ,ciseles4 ,poulets ,rtis avec ,bananes ,dresses4 ,rti de ,buf avec ,gele de ,banane4 ,gteau la ,gele de ,banane4 ,galettes de ,bananes4 ,gteau de ,banane aux ,fruits4 ,caf de ,banane4 ,the subjoined menu is a quaint attempt to please adult lovers of 8,alice in ,wonderland10 and deserves notice in that it really does contain a number of references1 more or less apt1 to that perennially delightful work4 ,,menu ,hors d'uvres4 ,hutres1 ,larmes ,amres4 ,snickersnacks4 ,potages4 ,manxomm4 ,jabberwock's-tail4 ,poisson4 ,walrus la ,charpentier4 ,snark1 sauce ,boojumoise4 ,entres4 ,momerath de lait4 ,tweedledum aux ,tum-tumatoes ,roti4 ,aloyau de ,jabberwock4 ,selle de ,gryphon4 ,volaille4 ,bandersnatch1 sauce vite4 ,jubjub saut4 ,salade3 ,feuilles de ,tumtum tulgeuses4 ,entremets4 ,crme au ,jour ,frabjoise4 ,omelette ,whiffle4 ,glace la ,duchesse4 ,savory4 ufs de ,borogove ,gimbles4 ,the following menu is that of a dinner given in ,paris by ,prince ,lon ,galitzine1 and deserves to be placed on record as an example of a real diner fin1 elaborate1 but not too elaborate1 cleverly designed1 and thoroughly well executed4 ,,menu ,bisque d'crevisse et ,exly frais la ,russe4 ,melon glac4 ,crevettes de ,dieppe4 ,hareng frais de ,hollande4 ,soles la ,marchale4 ,noisettes d'agneau avec crme d',argenteuil4 ,foie gras la ,rossini4 ,quenelles d'esturgeon la ,joinville4 ,sorbets au ,porto blanc4 ,granite grande fine ,champagne4 ,canetons de ,rouen flanqus d'ortolans en brochettes4 ,chaudfroid de ,paons en ,bellevue4 ,flageolets nouveaux au beurre4 ,pois la ,franaise4 ,ecrevisses de la ,meuse au vin de ,saumur4 ,bombe ,galitzine4 ,poires ,cressanes4 ,dessert4 ,this is really a rather noble dinner4 ,observe the dignity of the sturgeon and the peacock4 ,there is very good precedent for the serving of the hors d'uvre after the soup4 ,it is done at many of the best ,french tables4 ,there are two or three interesting points about the following ,savoy ,hotel menu which are worth consideration4 ,,menu ,,du ,,diner ,hors d'uvres4 ,melon ,cantaloup ,rafrachi4 ,poule-au-,pot ,henri ,,iv4 ,crme ,sant4 ,truite d',ecosse la ,nantua4 ,filets de sole en ,goujon4 ,cailles en ,terrines aux petits pois4 ,selle de ,pr-,sal la ,favorite4 ,haricots verts au ,beurre4 ,mousse de ,volaille en ,bellevue4 ,caneton de ,rouen la ,rouennaise4 ,salade ,victoria4 ,aubergines ,parisiennes4 ,bombe ,praline4 ,pches ,cardinal4 ,canaps ,pompadour4 ,the poule-au-pot ,henri ,,iv recalls1 of course1 one of the most charming kings in history1 who wished that every one of his subjects might have a fowl in his pot every ,sunday all the year round4 ,the fillets of sole en goujon are a clever variation of the same thing en blanchailles to which one is somewhat accustomed4 ,they are rather larger1 but equally crisp and succulent4 ,the cailles en terrines are very seasonable1 and contrast remarkably well with the following saddle of mutton4 ,there has been much discussion lately in ,france as to the healthiness or otherwise of the hitherto justly esteemed and much-eaten ,canard la ,rouennaise4 ,certain it is that some little while ago a few people became very ill after eating it2 but1 on the other hand1 the preparation of the bird is so simple that there hardly seems room for anything deleterious4 ,anyhow1 the matter has been set at rest once and for all by the appointment under the auspices of ,la ,socit ,scientifique d',hygine ,alimentaire et de l',alimentation ,rationnelle de l',homme 7heavens1 what a name67 of a committee which thoroughly tested and examined the question of the delinquent duck4 ,this committee consisted of ,m4 ,a4 ,dastre1 membre de l',institut2 ,m4 ,lapicque1 matre de ,confrences la ,sorbonne1 ,m4 ,s4 de ,raczkowski1 chmiste principal au ,laboratoire ,municipal1 and ,m4 ,e4 ,kohn-,abrest1 du ,laboratoire de ,toxicologie4 ,these eminent authorities were well able to give a definite and reassuring reply4 ,those who are interested in the duck question may remember a delightful little sketch by the brilliant ,alfred ,capus1 entitled 8,emile10 in which a ,canard la ,rouennaise and a solemn matre d'htel played prominent parts4 ,the following menu of a ball supper which was served quite recently at a ,london dance is all that a self-respecting ball supper need be4 ,it seems to me to be excellently designed and thought out1 for it provides for all tastes and palates1 and appeals to the dbutante as well as the sapient middle-aged supper eater4 ,,menu ,,du ,,souper ,consomm de ,volaille4 ,suprme ,truite ,alexandra4 ,mdaillons de ,homard ,moscovite4 ,ctelettes d',agneau ,princesse4 ,chaudfroid de ,mauviettes ,carme4 ,aspic de ,foie ,gras ,lucullus4 ,cailles la ,jeannette4 ,galantine ,volaille ,prigourdine4 ,buf ,brais la ,moderne4 ,poularde du ,mans l',andalouse4 ,jambon d',york4 ,langue l',ecarlate4 ,salade ,impriale4 ,gele ,orientale4 ,charlotte ,souveraine4 ,crme ,victoria4 ,macdoine de ,fruits aux ,liqueurs4 ,gteau ,fdora4 ,ptisserie ,parisienne4 ,glaces ,bouquetires4 ,friandises4 ,dessert4 ,we all know1 in a vague sort of way1 that the best1 in fact the only real pt de foie gras comes from ,strasburg4 ,this succulent if somewhat dyspeptic dish claimed as inventor for a long time a certain ,mathieu1 chef in the ,prince ,bishop of ,strasburg's household 7,cardinal ,rohan74 ,but this is an error4 ,the real originator was one ,close1 chef to the ,marchal ,saxe1 who came to ,strasburg in the train of his famous master and took up his permanent abode there1 marrying ,mathieu's widow4 ,it was he and none other who started the goose-liver tureen business in a small shop in the ,meisengasse1 where1 according to comparatively recent reports1 it is still carried on4 ,his imitators1 of course1 are numberless1 and some of them very good4 ,this menu from the ,carlton ,hotel practically explains itself4 ,if it err at all1 which is doubtful1 it is on the right side1 namely1 that of lightness and digestibility3-- ,royal ,natives1 ,caviar1 ,blinis4 ,stchi ,germiny4 ,mousseline de ,merlans aux ,ecrevisses4 ,cailles au ,nid4 ,selle de ,chevreuil l',allemande4 ,haricots ,verts4 ,volaille ,truffe4 ,salade4 ,asperges ,vertes ,sauce ,hollandaise4 ,biscuit ,gla aux ,perles des ,alpes4 ,dessert4 ,the ,blinis served with the ,caviar is annexed from the ,russian cuisine1 and is a kind of light sponge or yeast mixture1 technically known as a 8savarin0 without sugar1 baked in small pans1 and sent to table hot with a sauce of sour cream4 ,stchi1 or ,tschi1 is also ,russian4 ,it is primarily an army soup1 or broth1 made of beef1 slightly thickened with a brown roux and flavoured with sour cream4 ,it is usually served with small1 fried choux paste-balls4 ,it is not usual to write the menu of a banquet in the language of ancient ,rome1 but it appears the practice survives in ,bavaria4 ,witness the following in 8,latin de ,cuisine03-- ,epulum paratum die ,consecrationis ,a4,r4,d4 ,baronis de ,ow ,episcopi auxil4 ,ratisbonnensis in aula ,episcopali4 ,sorbitio cum globulis jecoralibus et lucanicis1 ,jes ex linguis bovinis factum cum panificio4 ,caro bovina cum brassica capitata4 ,assum vitulinum cum lactuca4 ,coffea4 ,potabimus cerevisiam ex hordeo bavarico coctam in officina cerevisiae ,episcopali4 ,sit saluti6 ,this formidable-looking legend1 on being translated1 reads3-- ,banquet prepared on the day of the consecration of the ,right ,reverend ,baron von ,ow1 ,suffragan ,bishop of ,regensburg in the episcopal palace4 ,soup with liver and sausage4 ,ox-tongue broth with bread4 ,beef and cabbage4 ,roast veal and lettuce4 ,coffee4 ,we shall drink ,bavarian barley beer brewed in the episcopal brewery4 ,may it do us good6 ,it is not on record1 ,i think1 who the original inventor of picnics was2 nor does it much matter4 ,there may be mention of them in ,shakespeare1 and certainly ,nebuchadnezzar would seem to be one of the earliest picnickers in history2 but whosoever may first have suggested the unpacking of a heterogeneous collection of cold cates on a greensward1 under a summer sun1 must have had a good digestion1 a pair of knees that bent both ways1 and 7it is to be hoped7 a positive passion for washing up4 ,anyhow1 it behoves me to make one or two diffident suggestions as to how the usual monotony of the convivial basket may be varied4 ,take the conventional pigeon pie1 for instance--a truly good thing in its way1 but capable of improvement4 ,angel ,pie1 according to ,mr4 ,gubbins1 is an agreeable change1 and his recipe in 8,cakes and ,ale0 may very well be followed4 ,eliza ,acton's pigeon pie is very good too2 and it is quite worth the trouble to note the directions carefully4 ,but picnics need not be all pigeon pie4 ,let me recommend a toothsome ,chaudfroid de ,foie-gras en caisses1 which is just round or oval-shaped slices of foie gras masked with white or fawn chaudfroid sauce1 set in souffl cases1 and decorated with slices of truffle4 ,after the ,first1 a ,ballotine de ,perdreau ,souvaroff is a pleasant change4 ,the dainty bird is stuffed with goose-liver farce and truffles1 done up like galantine1 and braised1 pressed1 and glazed4 ,although personally ,i am of those who prefer the unadulterated partridge1 there are many quite worthy folk who do not1 and for such ,i quote the above4 ,other suitable picnic dishes1 rather out of the usual run1 are ,cuisses de ,volaille ,belle ,alliance 7or ,waterloo1 if you will have it so72 ,filets de ,buf en ,chaudfroid2 ,pain de ,volaille aux ,truffes2 and ,ris d',agneau l',amiral1 which is lamb's sweetbread in oval slices1 masked with white sauce1 decorated with slices of truffles1 and dressed on a vegetable aspic border1 with salad in the centre4 ,a new salad always adds lustre to the dullest picnic4 ,try this3 ,potatoes1 cold1 in slices1 plentifully besprinkled with peas and a few broad beans4 ,or1 again1 red cabbage with cucumber4 ,in either case the mixture must be carried separately in a bottle1 and only poured out at the last moment2 then 8fatigue0 the salad thoroughly1 and see that all the liquid is absorbed from the bottom of the bowl4 ,the following picnic menu is put up by ,fortnum and ,mason in convenient baskets1 and when unpacked may be guaranteed to assuage the cravings of the hungriest4 ,,menu ,saumon1 ,salade de ,concombres4 ,homard la ,parisienne4 ,chaudfroid de ,mauviettes la ,chasseur4 ,poularde l',ivoire4 ,pigeon ,pie4 ,jambon d',york4 ,pressed ,beef4 ,tongues4 ,salade ,panache de ,haricots ,verts et ,tomates4 ,gteaux ,parisiennes4 ,dessert4 ,caf4 ,glaces ,varies4 ,in addition to all these nice things1 the baskets contain the necessary materials for tea1 such as bread1 butter1 petits fours1 cakes1 and such-like4 ,the following menu is one of a dinner at ,prince's ,restaurant1 and calls for no special remark1 save perhaps to emphasize the deft juxtaposition of the entre1 roast1 and bird1 which lead up to one another1 so to say1 in a subtle succession of delicately contrasted flavours4 ,,menu ,hors d'uvre la ,parisienne4 ,potage ,bortsch la ,czarine4 ,suprme de ,saumon ,crme d'anchois4 ,aiguillette de ,volaille des ,bacchantes4 ,noisette d',agneau ,edouard ,,vii4 ,pommes ,nouvelles la ,menthe4 ,bcasse rtie la ,broche4 ,salad ,mimosa4 ,salsifis la ,poulette4 ,bombe glace4 ,diable ,rose4 ,corbeille de ,friandises4 ,canap ,princesse4 ,dessert4 ,caf4 ,one of our ,french friends who came over here to enjoy l'entente cordiale--and ,british hospitality--was returning to ,france with an ,english acquaintance4 ,on landing at ,dieppe1 after rather a rough crossing1 ,john ,bull asked ,jacques ,bonhomme1 8,well1 did you lunch on board80 8,non1 mon ami10 was the reply1 8tout au contraire60 ,one may always trust the cuisine at the ,savoy4 ,there is a thoroughness of conception about every specially ordered dinner which bespeaks the eye1 the hand1 the brain of the master4 ,take the following menu1 for example1 which1 charmingly printed on a graceful little silk ,japanese fan1 formed an exquisite meal of some originality4 ,,menu ,melon ,cantaloup4 ,petite ,marmite4 ,crme ,portugaise4 ,truite la ,saatz4 ,whitebait ,diabl4 ,caille ,bridget4 ,medaillon de ,bhague l',estragon4 ,petits ,pois la ,franaise4 ,pommes ,savoyarde4 ,souffl de ,jambon la ,hongroise4 ,neige au ,kirsch4 ,caneton au ,sang4 ,haricots verts et tomates en salade4 ,fonds d'artichauts l',italienne4 ,framboises glaces la ,vanille4 ,friandises4 ,pailles de ,parmesan4 ,corbeille de ,fruits4 ,note the graceful juxtaposition of the ,hungarian ham and the ,kirsch1 followed by duck and ,french beans4 ,it is touches such as these which in their poetic elegance and subtlety force one to recognize what the high art of cookery really means4 ,to whom hath it not fallen to take the female faddist in to dinner8--,i speak1 of course1 from the masculine point of view4 ,the plethoric dame1 for instance1 who says1 8,thank you1 ,i only eat toast1 and ,i prefer it very crisp02 or the earnest spinster who talks for miles about proteids and other abominable scientific non-gastronomics2 or the materfamilias who laments the absence of ,benger from the dinner-party menu8 ,like the poor1 such as these are always with us4 ,there are fashions in these things1 as in everything else4 ,now and again one comes across a real ,fletcherite1 who chews his or her food eighty-seven times and allows it to disappear by a slow process of gradual deglutition4 ,mr4 ,horace ,fletcher himself is1 ,i am given to understand1 a man of irreproachable morality1 and the possessor1 moreover1 of a beautiful ,palazzo on the ,grand ,canal at ,venice2 but1 whether for good or ill1 he has introduced a deal of dullness into the modern dinner party4 ,it is obviously impossible to keep up a ready flow of brilliant conversation when every mouthful has to be masticated unto seventy times seven times4 ,such a salutary procedure puts a damper on prandial discourse1 and makes a dinner only one degree less lively than a funeral4 ,it would seem preferable to suffer tortures of indigestion rather than act as a dinner-party wet-blanket4 ,a former generation suffered from the ,andrew ,clark regime1 and ,i can even remember a dinner menu divided into halves1 one of which was headed 8,clarkists10 and was confined to the dishes prescribed by that eminent medico1 and the other half labelled 8,just ordinary folk0--and it was much the better programme of the two4 ,a little later one met the weird folk who produced from hidden recesses mysterious little silver boxes1 from which they extracted little white pilules 8to be taken between each course0--but ,i have noticed that these people usually ate a remarkably hearty dinner1 despite1 or perhaps because1 of these same pilules4 ,one comes across1 too1 the ,stokerites1 with their peculiar antipathies1 the 8,natural ,feeders10 the 8,little ,grangers10 and the maigre tous les jours sort of folk4 ,as for the vegetarians1 there is little to be said for or against them4 ,they are1 of course1 fully justified in their opinions1 but they do give a lot of bother at an ordinary dinner party4 ,i may be unfortunate in my vegetarian friends1 but it always appears to me that after a time they seem to assimilate certain characteristics of the food they eat1 and eventually become very like their favourite vegetables2 so much so that they might almost be accused of cannibalism4 ,certain it is that ,i can spot a carrot-eating man by his hair1 an onion-lover by his breath1 and a ,brussels-sprout devotee by his whiskers4 ,take it1 however1 by and large1 the food faddist1 be it a he or a she1 is rarely a pleasant table-companion1 and in these times of strenuous dining he1 she1 or it1 is usually a poor conversationalist and a poorer critic2 which is a pity4 ,it is quite a mistake to imagine that a good dinner can afford to despise the adjuncts of a well-decorated table4 ,nothing could be more fallacious4 ,one's sense of taste should not alone be titillated4 ,one's palate-gusto is distinctly enhanced by something pleasant to look upon1 by something artistic to accompany the mere mechanism of mastication1 by a general sense of beauty and non-flamboyant restfulness4 ,we have gone far in this direction during the past two or three decades4 ,there are many happily still surviving among us who remember vividly1 and not without a certain amount of awe1 the vast erections which appeared on the dinner-tables of our forbears4 ,the silver branch candelabra1 the epergnes1 the great piles of fruit1 the towering 8set-pieces10 the bushy and umbrageous plants and flowers1 the plates of mixed biscuits1 and the various impossible dishes of confectionery which nobody was expected to eat4 ,but all this has disappeared1 and one is no longer obliged to talk to one's opposite neighbour through a jungle of horticulture4 ,flowers are best shown in low bowls1 either china or silver1 there are no useless impedimenta1 the tiresome trails of smilax have long since been relegated to ,peckham dinner-tables1 and we have at last arrived at an era of plenty of elbow-room1 discreet floral decoration1 and a clean sweep of ridiculous encumbrances4 ,some hostesses1 indeed1 cultivate the ,japanese grammar of the arrangement of flowers1 which gives a particular and especial value to each leaf1 branch1 and stalk4 ,others again will have merely half a dozen blooms1 all told1 on the table1 but each bloom perfect of its kind1 and displayed to the best advantage4 ,high vases are as obsolete as the dodo1 and people are gradually becoming alive to the fact that four or five exquisite roses in a big flat ,hawthorn dish are more decorative than all the miserable little white china cupids in ,regent ,street4 ,the choice of odours1 too1 is an important consideration4 ,no hostess with any consideration for the olfactory nerves of her guests would put strongly perfumed flowers on the dinner-table4 ,they would only destroy the flavour of the cates1 and cause annoyance rather than pleasure4 ,even the lovely syringa1 which a good lady once described as 8a respectable gardenia10 is too strong1 and at the most a purely neutral scent is permissible4 ,in the height of summer ,i have met a single water-lily floating in a copper dish in the middle of the table2 the lily was so perfect in itself that any other decoration would have seemed superfluous and impertinent4 ,the stalks of flowers seen through clear glass are as beautiful as the blooms1 and an arrangement of green leaves only1 with no flower at all1 is1 if rightly understood and designed1 very difficult to beat4 ,only recently1 dining in an artist's studio1 ,i was delighted with a few sprays of medlar blossom on the table1 and a mass of hydrangea on the sideboard1 immediately below a shelf of old pewter4 ,the harmony was wonderfully beautiful4 ,such touches of taste entirely alter the character of a dinner1 and from a mere feeding party it becomes an artistic pleasure4 ,for1 after all1 the mere act of eating is not in itself beautiful4 ,reverting to the food-faddist1 there are some who1 quite apart from doctors' reasons1 have the most peculiar likes and dislikes4 ,some never touch soup2 others positively like boiled veal2 and it is on record that ,dr4 ,johnson poured lobster sauce over his plum-pudding4 ,it is not easy to understand this extraordinary combination of the great lexicographer1 but the story has good authority4 ,some folk1 quite worthy folk too1 like cold meat and pickles1 even when abroad2 others make a point of drinking the wine of the country4 ,it is told of the great ,duke of ,wellington that when journeying through ,france with ,alava1 in #ahad1 on being asked at what time they should start next day1 he invariably replied 8,at daybreak40 ,and to the question what they should have for dinner1 he always answered1 8,cold meat40 8,je les ai eu en horreur1 la fin10 ,alava declared1 8ces deux mots-l--#8daybreak' et #8cold meat4'0 ,the menu of a good summer dinner is always interesting4 ,here is one which should amply satisfy the most fastidious4 ,it was cooked by one of the best chefs in ,london1 and seems to me to contain some particularly interesting features4 ,,menu ,,du ,,diner ,zakuska4 ,potage la ,dauphine4 ,pure d'asperges la ,st4 ,georges4 ,filets de ,sole ,bagration4 ,saumon froid la ,doria4 ,ris de ,veau en ,caisses la ,prigueux4 ,petites ,croustades ,glacs la ,montglas4 ,selle de ,mouton froid4 ,courges farcies4 ,cannetons ,sauts4 ,sauce ,bigarade4 ,salade de ,choux ,rouges4 ,mas l',amricaine4 ,macdoine de ,fruits4 ,bombe de ,juillet4 ,glace de ,crme aux ,truffes4 ,another hot-weather menu is a comparatively simple luncheon1 and is principally remarkable for the fact that it is entirely cold1 from the prawns to the coffee4 ,we have all of us1 of course1 had many cold lunches1 racing1 motoring1 at ,henley1 or elsewhere1 but as a rule these casual meals lack character and homogeneity2 they are of a 8chucked-together0 sort of nature1 and whilst serving a useful purpose of their own1 can hardly be called perfect pictures of their kind4 ,no such objection can1 ,i think1 be made to the subjoined4 ,,menu ,,du ,d,,jeuner ,crevettes ,roses4 ,consomm en ,gele4 ,salade de ,poisson4 ,truite froide4 ,sauce ,rmoulade4 ,filet de ,buf aux ,lgumes ,glacs4 ,poulet ,provenale4 ,salade ,miladi4 ,pches ,daisy ,miller4 ,coupe ,jacques4 ,caf ,glac4 ,the following little story from ,mr4 ,g4 ,w4 ,e4 ,russell's 8,londoner's ,logbook0 has a delightful gastronomical moral1 which might be adopted1 with advantage1 by many hosts of to-day3 8#8,come and dine at eight--pot-luck1 you know4 ,don't dress4' ,that hospitable formula recalls a genial knight who dwelt in ,berkeley ,square1 and1 applying his whole mind to the subject of dinners1 attained to high perfection in the art of giving them4 ,two benevolent practices of his invention linger pleasantly in the memory4 ,he caused each course to begin at a different point at the table1 so that every guest in turn got the first chance at a dish4 ,he dealt out the asparagus like cards1 an equal number of pieces to each guest2 and if on completion of the deal he saw that any one had got smaller pieces than his neighbours1 he used the residue to redress the inequality4 ,surely such are those actions of the just which smell sweet and blossom in the dust40 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,oysters 8,tom1 whom to-day no noise stirs1 ,lies buried in these cloisters2 ,if at the last trump ,he does not quickly jump2 ,only cry #8,oysters6'0 ,epitaph on a ,colchester ,man's ,grave ,if you have eaten an oyster at ,colchester or ,faversham1 in ,august1 fresh from the sea2 or a melting native at ,milton1 the best oyster in the world1 in ,october2 a ,helford native in ,cornwall2 ,whispered ,pandores and ,aberdours at ,edinburgh1 on the 8,feast of ,shells10 one hundred for a shilling1 dripping in ,prestonpans sea-water2 ,carlingfords and ,powldoodies1 of ,burran1 at ,dublin2 or even a ,jersey oyster at ,st4 ,heliers1 you know what an oyster should be4 ,these are the words of wisdom1 written some thirty years ago by ,herbert ,byng ,hall1 a gastronomic writer of some eminence1 who had made a special study of the ,oyster1 and wrote thereon learnedly and con amore4 ,somehow or other there is something persuasively and personally intimate in one's relations with an oyster1 or with a couple of dozen oysters1 for that matter4 ,one does not feel the same sentimental regard for the pig that provides one with one's morning rasher of bacon that one does for the merest preprandial oyster4 ,and this feeling of friendship1 almost intimacy1 is always to be found in the writings of those who dilate upon 8the breedy creatures10 as ,christopher ,north called our illustrious bivalves in the 8,noctes ,ambrosian40 ,dr4 ,kitchiner1 for instance1 says3 8,those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection must eat it at the moment it is opened1 with its own gravy in the undershell2 if not eaten absolutely alive1 its flavour and spirit are lost4 ,the true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the feelings of his little favourite1 and contrive to detach the fish from the shell so dexterously that the oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from his lodging till he feels the teeth of the piscivorous gourmet tickling him to death40 ,there are other instances innumerable of a certain dainty touch in dealing with oysters4 ,contact with them seems to engender humour1 good nature1 and a tricksey spirit4 ,huxley called oysters 8a delicious flash of gustatory lightning02 and there is a story told of the great master1 ,g4 ,f4 ,watts1 who was challenged by ,millais and ,leighton to produce a humorous picture1 whereupon he painted a primitive man and woman on the seashore4 ,the woman is looking with awestruck admiration at the man who has just swallowed an oyster4 ,the man himself appears very doubtful as to the result4 ,the picture was called 8,b4,c4 ,the ,first ,oyster40 ,it was originally said in a very old number of the 8,north ,british ,review10 that 8he must have been a very bold man who first swallowed an oyster40 ,an old legend assigns the first act of oyster-eating to a very natural cause4 ,it is related that a man walking by the sea one day picked up an oyster1 just as it was in the act of gaping4 ,observing the extreme smoothness of the interior of the shell1 he insinuated his finger between them that he might feel their shining surface1 when suddenly they closed upon the exploring digit1 with a sensation less pleasurable than he anticipated4 ,the prompt withdrawal of his finger was scarcely a more natural movement than its transfer to his mouth4 ,it is not very clear why people 7including babies7 when they hurt their fingers put them into their mouths2 but it is very certain that they do1 and in this case the result was most fortunate4 ,the owner of the finger tasted oyster juice for the first time1 as ,elia's ,chinaman1 having burned his finger1 first tasted crackling4 ,the savour was delicious2 he had made a great discovery2 so he picked up the oysters1 forced open the shells1 banqueted upon the contents1 and soon brought oyster-eating into fashion4 ,that tender personal regard for the innocent oyster1 which ,i have just referred to1 is very manifest in one of the most widely known poems in the ,english language4 ,i mean ,lewis ,carroll's 8,walrus and the ,carpenter40 8,o ,oysters1 come and walk with us60 ,the ,walrus did beseech4 8,a pleasant walk1 a pleasant talk1 ,along the briny beach2 ,we cannot do with more than four1 ,to give a hand to each40 99 99 99 99 99 8,o ,oysters10 said the ,carpenter1 8,you've had a pleasant run6 ,shall we be trotting home again80 ,but answer came there none4 ,and this was scarcely odd1 because ,they'd eaten every one4 ,the kindly regard for the susceptibilities of the oysters is kept up even until the dire dnoment of the drama4 ,again we are touched by a fragment by the same author1 of which1 alas1 we shall never know the full purport4 ,it runs thus3-- ,i passed by his garden and marked1 with one eye1 ,how the owl and the oyster were sharing a pie4 7,ctera desunt47 ,mr4 ,thomas ,hardy did not1 ,i am sure1 in the title of his novel1 8,the ,return of the ,native10 intend to celebrate the coming of oysters into the dinner menu1 but it seems to sum up in a brief and pithy phrase one of the great events of the autumn4 ,the old convention that oysters are only eatable in those months which are spelled with an 8r0 has1 of course1 much to be said for it2 at any rate1 so far as ,british oysters are concerned4 ,abroad it is different1 and the parcs aux hutres at ,french watering-places give quite excellent oysters in ,august1 and even in ,july4 ,the hutres de ,marennes1 hutres d',ostende1 and the tiny little green ones are by no means to be despised1 although they do not1 perhaps1 quite come up in lusciousness of flavour to the real ,whitstable native4 ,we are somewhat oyster-spoiled in this country1 and particularly in ,london4 ,we go to ,scott's1 ,sweeting's1 ,driver's1 ,hampton's1 ,rule's1 or any first-class oyster shops1 and we get1 as we know we shall get1 the very best brand of the very best oyster in the world2 fresh1 clean1 untainted1 and uncontaminated1 which1 after all is said and done1 cannot be vouched for in the case of second-rate hotels and caterers4 ,whether to drink champagne1 ,chablis1 stout1 or nothing with oysters is a nice point which has not as yet been authoritatively decided4 ,of course1 champagne and ,chablis go far to assimilate the oyster1 but at the same time there are those 7and--dare ,i confess it8--,i am amongst the number7 who are venturesome enough to assert that the oyster1 pure and simple1 requires no alcoholic addition4 ,drink ,chablis1 or a light hock1 after the oyster feast1 by all means2 but when eating your two or three dozen on the deep shell 7always order them on the deep shell7 imbibe their own liquor only1 and be thankful4 8,un voyageur anglais1 transi de froid1 arrive dans une htellerie de village o il n'y avait d'autre feu que celui de la cuisine1 dont la chemine tait garde par un grand nombre de voyageurs arrives avant lui4 ,pour se faire faire place1 il usa d'un stratagme assez original4 ,il avait aperu en entrant quelques cloyres d'hutres4 ,il dit au matre de la maison1 #8,monsieur1 avez-vous des hutres8' #8,oui1 ,monsieur1 et de trs-fraches4' #8,faites-en porter une cloyre mon cheval4' #8,comment1 ,monsieur1 est-ce que votre cheval mange des hutres8' #8,oui1 ,monsieur2 au surplus1 faites ce que je dis2 s'il ne les mange pas1 d'autres les mangeront4' 8,le matre obit1 et les voyageurs allaient voir un cheval manger des hutres--qu'il ne mangea pas4 ,pendant ce temps1 le nouvel arriv prend place au feu4 ,le matre de retour lui dit1 #8,monsieur1 je savais bien que votre cheval ne mangeait pas d'hutres4' #8,eh bien1 non1' dit l',anglais1 #8je les mangerai2 ces messieurs ont quitt leur place1 je la garderai2 ainsi tout cela1 il n'y aura rien de perdu4' ,et1 en effet1 il vida la cloyre sans quitter le coin du feu40 ,this is a quotation1 apt enough1 ,i think1 from 8,la ,gastronomie pour ,rire1 ou ,anecdotes1 ,rflexions1 ,maximes1 et ,folies ,gourmandes10 par ,csar ,gardeton1 auteur du 8,directeur des ,estomacs10 ,paris1 #ahbg4 ,as a useful recipe for oysters1 ,i should like to refer to an extract from a letter from ,swift to ,stella2 it runs thuswise3-- ,lord ,masham made me go home with him to eat boiled oysters4 ,take oysters1 wash them clean2 that is1 wash their shells clean2 then put your oysters in an earthen pot1 with their hollow side down2 then put this pot1 covered1 into a great kettle with water1 and so let them boil4 ,your oysters are boiled in their own liquor1 and do not mix water4 ,if oysters have to be cooked at all1 which is a doctrine ,i do not support1 then the above seems as good a way as any other4 ,really good oysters are1 anyhow1 too precious to be cooked1 but should be degustated in puris naturalibus4 ,a story which ,i venture to think apocryphal is quoted by ,w4 ,r4 ,hare in a curious little book1 8,on the ,search for a ,dinner10 published in ,london in #aheg4 ,speaking of dining in ,paris1 he refers to the celebrated restaurant the ,rocher du ,cancale1 and relates how an ,english 8,milord0 drove up to the establishment and ordered 7and ate7 a hearty meal of twenty-nine dozen oysters2 after which ,milord died suddenly--and no wonder6 ,they carried him down with great difficulty to the carriage4 ,the groom1 on seeing his master's body arrive1 exclaimed1 with great coolness1 8,it is the third time that ,milord gives himself the pleasure of dying of indigestion40 8,he will not die a fourth time10 answered the patron1 with sorrow4 ,milord was buried at ,pre-la-,chaise4 ,his facetious friends deposit every year by the remains of the defunct an enormous quantity of oyster-shells4 ,the tomb is about five-and-twenty yards from that of ,hloise and ,ablard4 ,on a slab of black marble the following epitaph is inscribed3 8,here lies ----1 dead for the third time in a duel with the oysters of the ,rocher du ,cancale40 ,i confess that ,i have not had the curiosity to verify the tombstone4 ,brillat-,savarin has an oyster anecdote to the effect that he was at ,versailles in the year #agih as ,commissary of the ,directory1 and had frequently to meet the ,registrar of the ,tribunal1 ,m4 ,laperte4 ,the latter was so fond of oysters that he used to grumble about never having had enough to satisfy him4 ,being determined to procure him that satisfaction1 ,brillat-,savarin asked ,laperte to dinner1 and the latter accepted4 8,i kept up with him10 says the host1 8to the third dozen1 letting him then go on by himself4 ,he went on steadily to the thirty-second dozen--that is to say1 for more than an hour1 as they were opened but slowly--and as in the meantime ,i had nothing else to do--a state quite unbearable at table--,i stopped him just as he was beginning to show more appetite than ever4 ,my dear friend10 ,i said1 8it must be some other day that you have enough to satisfy you2 let us now have some dinner40 ,we took dinner1 and he showed all the vigour and hunger of a man who had been fasting4 ,these oyster-gorges are1 however1 mere epitomes of vulgar gluttony4 ,there is no more gastronomic satisfaction to be got out of thirty-three dozen than out of the conventional two dozen4 ,in fact1 doctors rarely prescribe more than one dozen at a time4 ,horace1 ,martial1 and ,juvenal1 ,cicero and ,seneca1 ,pliny1 tius1 and the old ,greek doctor ,oribasius1 whom ,julian the ,apostate delighted to honour1 have all enlarged upon the virtues of the oyster4 ,it would be easy to add to the list and to quote corroborative passages1 but the thing has been done so often and so copiously1 that it would certainly be supererogatory and tedious4 ,the ,tabella ,cibaria has been referred to by every culinary scribe1 and we really know more about the oyster habits of the ,romans than we do about those of the inhabitants of the ,hebrides2 which is absurd4 ,g4 ,a4 ,sala says that the ,pontiffs of ,pagan ,rome caused oysters to be served at every repast2 but the delicacy must have been very expensive1 since a basket of oysters cost the equivalent of nine pounds sterling4 ,they were served raw and were dexterously opened by a slave at a side-table at the beginning of the dinner4 ,there is a story told of an astute ,roman epicure named ,fulvius ,hirpinus who constructed on his estate1 close to the seashore1 a fish-pond where he stored or 8parked0 oysters1 which he fattened with paste and cooked wine1 worked to the consistency of honey4 ,he was certainly astute because besides regaling himself and his friends on these artificially fattened oysters1 he drove a roaring trade in selling them wholesale and retail to the nobility and gentry of ,rome4 ,the same authority goes on to say that1 oddly enough1 in a comparatively modern cookery book1 that of ,will ,rabisha1 there is a direction1 a rather ferocious one1 that while oysters are undergoing the process of broiling they should be fed with white wine and grated bread4 ,of course many ways were adopted in those days for the feeding of oysters2 but a paste of oatmeal and water seems to have been the staple of the sustenance given to the creatures before they were considered to be fit for the table4 ,the ,greeks1 according to ,athenus1 boiled and fried their oysters1 finding them1 however1 best of all when roasted in the coals till the shells opened4 ,as early as the seventeenth century the ,french prepared them en etuve and en fricase4 ,both recipes appear in the 8,dlices de la ,campagne0 7#afed71 a book of extreme interest and full of quaint information2 but not1 it would seem1 strictly reliable as a record of the cookery of the time4 ,illustration3 ,frontispiece to 8,des ,magens ,vertheidigung der edlen ,austern0 ,prague1 #agca ,to face page #agh ,we are so accustomed nowadays to pay half a crown1 three and sixpence1 and even more for our dozen oysters1 that it seems almost incredible that our fathers regaled themselves thereon at the common or general price of sixpence a dozen4 ,an old poem on the subject says3-- ,happy the man1 who1 void of care and strife1 ,in silken or in leathern purse retains ,a splendid shilling3 he nor hears with pain ,new oysters cried1 nor sighs for cheerful ale4 ,this is from 8,the ,splendid ,shilling10 by ,john ,philip1 which1 according to ,steele in the 8,tatler10 was 8the finest burlesque poem in the ,english language40 ,just exactly why the price of oysters should have increased so enormously in recent years has never been satisfactorily explained4 ,many ridiculous reasons have been given1 but they seem either impertinent1 or inadequate1 or both4 ,we need only refer to the pages of the 8,pickwick ,papers0 for confirmation4 8,before proceeding to the ,legacy ,duty ,office about proving the will of his late wife1 ,mr4 ,weller1 senior1 and his fellow-coachmen1 as witnesses1 bethought themselves of having a drop of beer1 and a little cold beef1 or an oyster4 ,these viands were promptly produced1 and the luncheon was done ample justice to4 ,if one individual evinced greater powers than another it was the coachman with the hoarse voice1 who took an imperial pint of vinegar with his oysters1 and did not betray the least emotion40 ,another and more striking illustration4 8,it's a very remarkable circumstance1 sir10 said ,sam ,weller1 8that poverty and oysters always seem to go together2 the poorer a place is the greater call there seems to be for oysters4 ,look here1 sir6 blest if ,i don't think that ven a man's wery poor he rushes out of his lodgings1 and eats oysters for regular desperation40 ,the ,colchester ,oyster ,feast is an annual function which is usually graced by the presence and assistance of political and other notabilities4 ,the ,mayor and ,corporation open the proceedings by 8sizing0 the oysters1 eating a large number at luncheon1 and following the luncheon with prescribed draughts of gin and slices of gingerbread4 ,this historic repast seems1 on the face of it1 to be of a somewhat incongruous nature2 but it is said by those who have survived it1 and their number is very large1 that the cates and beverage go well together1 and never quarrel among themselves4 ,until comparatively recent times1 another annual ,oyster ,feast took place at ,edinburgh1 with a kind of civic ceremonial1 known as the ,feast of ,shells4 ,a voyage was made by ,provosts and ,bailiffs to the oyster beds in the ,firth of ,forth1 and 8though the solemnity of wedding the ,frith formed no part of the ,chief ,magistrate's office1 as wedding the ,adriatic with a gold ring did that of the ,doge of ,venice10 three cheers were given by all present as the first 8dredge0 was hoisted on to the deck of the civic barge4 ,there is an old fisherman's song1 now almost forgotten1 one verse of which runs3-- ,the ,herring loves the merry moonlight1 ,the ,mackerel loves the wind1 ,but the ,oyster loves the dredger's song1 ,for he comes of a gentle kind4 ,many years ago a sort of popular belief was current to the absurd effect that ,oysters could be trained to sing4 ,it is impossible to says whence the superstition arose1 but it was helped by a noted exhibition1 in ,london1 of a 8,whistling ,oyster0 which was supposed to emit certain sibilant sounds4 ,thousands flocked to hear it1 but it was more or less conclusively proved1 however1 that it was a trick of ventriloquism on the part of the showman4 ,in ,tom ,hood's 8,miss ,kilmansegg and her ,golden ,leg10 there is an apt reference to a ,colchester ,oyster1 when they were very much cheaper than they are to-day1 and1 as before mentioned1 were practically poor men's food4 ,what different fates our stars accord6 ,one babe is welcomed1 and wooed as a lord1 ,another is shunned like a leper2 ,one to the world's wine1 and honey1 and corn1 ,another1 like ,colchester native1 is born ,to its vinegar only1 and pepper4 ,the ,americans always seem to do things on a larger scale than we1 in our effete little island1 are able to do4 ,they excel even in the fecundity of their oysters4 ,the ,british mollusc ,ostrea edulis produces about a million young in a season4 ,one of the ,american variety1 ,ostrea ,virginiana1 about ten times as many4 ,there is a great ,oyster cult in the ,united ,states1 and the different manners of cooking1 preparing1 and serving the oyster are manifold4 ,a book might be written on the pros and cons of cooking an oyster at all1 and opinions as to its legitimacy differ1 even among the erudite on the subject4 ,be that as it may1 the ,americans certainly owe much of their nerve-strength1 hustlesomeness1 and vigour to their enormous oyster consumption4 ,it is the ideal food to replace and restore nerve power4 ,it is hardly too much to say that the oyster is the foundation of ,america's commercial success4 ,oliver ,wendell ,holmes says somewhere that two immense oysters should be carved in marble and placed on top of the ,washington monument in ,baltimore1 instead of the statue of the immortal ,george4 8,i am not in favour of removing the ,father of his ,country from off his imposing pedestal1 but should like to compromise matters by making him sit on a pile of oyster-shells in lieu of a curule chair40 ,when ,thackeray went to ,boston in #aheb he had some trouble with the very large ,american oyster4 8,he first selected the smallest one of the half-dozen 7rejecting a larger one because1 as he said1 it resembled the ,high ,priest's servant's ear that ,peter cut off71 and then bowed his head as though he were saying ,grace4 ,opening his mouth very wide1 he struggled for a moment1 after which all was over4 ,i shall never forget the comic look of despair he cast upon the other five over-occupied shells4 ,i asked him how he felt4 #8,profoundly grateful1' he said1 #8as if ,i had swallowed a small baby4'0 ,but ,thackeray was not an authority1 for he ranked 8the dear little juicy green oysters of ,france0 above the 8great white flaccid natives in ,england that look as if they had been fed on pork40 ,this is ungenerous4 ,the poet ,gay wrote in praise of ,oysters when ,fleet ,ditch1 now turned into the ,farringdon ,street sewer1 was still a ,london eyesore4 ,it appears to have been a centre of ,london ,oyster hucksters4 ,if where ,fleet ,ditch with muddy current flows ,you chance to roam1 where oyster tubs in rows ,are ranged beside the posts1 there stay thy haste1 ,and with the savoury fish indulge thy taste4 ,oysters are not unconnected with ,pearls1 although a real ,oyster-lover must necessarily regret that a large number of his darling food is sacrificed for the trivial purpose of feminine adornment4 ,it seems such waste6 ,it were well to cast pearls before swine1 if the molluscs were reserved for the pig-keepers4 ,the pearls1 by the by1 which are used in heraldry to denote the gradations of rank in the coronets of peers1 are the produce of the ,pinna marina1 the large pearl-oyster of the ,east ,indies4 ,a curious pearl case came before the law courts in ,hamburg recently4 ,a merchant and his wife1 dining at a local restaurant1 began their dinner1 as right-minded folk always should1 with oysters4 ,in one of the shells they found quite a considerable-sized and admirably formed pearl4 ,they were about to carry it off in triumph1 when the restaurant-keeper interfered and claimed it as his property4 ,this was disputed1 and the matter taken to law1 the pearl in question being valued by experts at one hundred and fifty pounds4 ,eventually the decision was given against the restaurant proprietor1 the judge holding that by purchasing the oysters the guest was entitled to anything found in them4 ,a just and upright judge6 ,between #agge and #ahah there lived and flourished 7more or less7 in ,malta1 ,naples1 ,paris1 and elsewhere1 a notable composer1 ,nicolo ,isouard1 more generally known as ,nicolo4 ,he wrote many operas1 all of which are now forgotten4 ,having lived in ,naples he was a great macaroni eater1 and prepared the dish himself in a somewhat original manner4 ,he stuffed each tube of macaroni with a mixture of marrow1 pt de foie gras1 chopped truffles1 and cut-up oysters4 ,he then heated up the preparation1 and ate it with his left hand covering up his eyes1 for he asserted that he could not afford to allow the beautiful thoughts engendered by such exquisite food to be disturbed by any extraneous mundane sights4 ,no wonder he died young4 ,there is a ,russian story1 averagely true ,i opine1 of the emancipation of a serf through the agency of oysters4 ,one of the ancestors of the banking firm of ,sjalouschine was originally a serf of ,prince ,cheremeteff4 ,the serf1 by dealing in corn and cattle1 had become very well-to-do1 and he asked the ,prince again and again to set him free1 even offering him large sums of money as the price of his emancipation4 ,but the ,prince always refused1 as he was rather tickled by the idea of owning a serf who was comparatively a rich man4 ,in the beginning of one ,september the serf went to ,st4 ,petersburg on business1 and brought back with him a barrel of oysters1 the first of the season4 ,when he returned he asked to see the ,prince1 but was told that ,his ,highness was in a terribly bad temper because his chef had forgotten to order any oysters4 ,whereupon the serf went straight to the ,prince and offered him his barrel of oysters in exchange for his freedom4 ,the ,prince being1 as aforesaid1 of a humorous disposition1 and besides1 wanting the oysters badly1 was taken by the notion4 ,he agreed to the bargain1 and clenched it by saying1 8,we will now lunch together on the oysters40 ,the family of ,sjalouschine is said to bear oysters on their coat-of-arms in memory of the emancipation4 ,at a dinner-party where there were twelve covers1 one of the courses consisted of scalloped oysters in silver shells4 ,the set of shells was broken--there were only eleven4 ,the mistress1 therefore1 told the butler that she would not eat any oysters4 ,when the oyster course came1 he placed before his mistress one of the shells4 ,to his horror she did not decline it4 ,she took up her fork and was about to plunge into it1 when the man flew to her side4 8,pardon me1 madam10 he murmured1 8but you said ,i was to remind you that the doctor forbade your eating oysters on any account40 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,waiters ,,and ,,snails 8,will you walk a little faster80 said the ,whiting to the ,snail2 8,there's a lobster close behind me and he's treading on my tail40 ,,lewis ,,carroll ,the collocation of ,waiters and ,snails under one chapter-heading is not entirely fortuitous4 ,the remote connexion which may fairly be said to exist between the two is not perhaps as marked to-day as it was some time ago1 for waiters are improving rapidly1 and snails--well1 snails are remaining very much where they used to be4 ,the advent of the well-trained foreign waiter has done much to improve our restaurant dinner-table1 and1 incidentally1 the temper of the average diner4 ,of the expert1 deft1 and sober ,british waiter there is also nothing but good to be said4 ,the snail has no family relationship with either of these classes4 ,unfortunately1 however1 there are others1 many others1 who are slow1 dirty1 ignorant1 and only occasionally sober4 ,it is such as these who degrade waiterdom1 and to whom the snail is a fit comparison--save that the waiter is not edible4 ,nothing could be smarter than a good ,english waiter with a knowledge of foreign dishes1 or a good foreign waiter with a knowledge of ,english2 and thanks to the interest now taken in everything appertaining to dining in public places1 neither is now as uncommon as he used to be4 ,one ,p4 ,z4 ,didsbury1 an ,american deipnosophist1 once said in his wisdom3 8,in a restaurant when a waiter offers you turbot1 ask for salmon1 and when he offers you a sole1 order a mackerel2 as language to men1 so fish has been given to the waiter to disguise his thoughts40 ,this maligns the individual waiter1 of course2 the man who is used to attending on you1 who knows your likes and dislikes1 and takes a personal interest in your contentment1 but it is fairly typical of the average restaurant waiter who sees you for the first time and thinks you just one of the ordinary mob4 ,for the casual customer is the facile dupe of the waiter4 ,he comes1 he orders his dinner1 or preferably1 permits it to be ordered for him1 pays his bill1 and goes away4 ,eating with him partakes of the stoking process1 and he recks little of the particular la offered to him1 if it be toothsome1 and saucily disguised4 ,in the best restaurants1 as well in ,england as on the ,continent1 deception1 fraud1 and trickery are comparatively rare4 ,they would not pay4 ,but in nearly every restaurant below the class of the best some one or other or all of the traditional time-honoured wiles of the waiter are practised on the more or less unsuspecting customer4 ,there is1 for instance1 the well-known trick of 8,putting the change to bed40 ,it is preferably employed when a man is dining with a lady who1 to the cynical and experienced eye of the waiter1 is obviously not his wife4 ,this is the very simple modus operandi4 ,your bill1 we will say1 as presented to you1 discreetly folded in half on a plate1 comes to one pound fifteen shillings4 ,you place a couple of sovereigns under the upper fold of the bill4 ,the waiter returns with the change4 ,if you are careless you do not count it4 ,you see half a crown on the bill1 and say nonchalantly 8,all right40 ,whereupon the waiter is exceeding glad1 for you have given him five shillings4 ,if1 on the other hand1 you are observant1 accurate1 and careful1 you will say1 8,the change is not right40 ,the waiter1 who has carefully concealed the second half-crown between the bill and the plate1 will semi-indignantly say1 8,i beg your pardon1 sir60 and drawing away the bill1 the two half-crowns will be exposed to view4 ,after having doubted his word1 you cannot do less than give the poor man the two coins4 ,so the waiter scores either way4 8,putting the change to bed0 rarely fails4 ,mr4 ,pinero illustrated this trick very neatly in his delightful farce1 8,the ,magistrate10 some years ago at the ,old ,court ,theatre4 ,it is said that some of the most famous conjurers of to-day began life as restaurant waiters1 and certainly the knack of palming the cork of the wine you ordered1 and serving you with an inferior quality thereof1 meanwhile gravely depositing the palmed cork next to the bottle1 in its cradle1 is a very old and usually successful trick4 ,it is as well1 too1 to see that the label on the wine bottle is dry and stuck fast1 because1 unless you have ordered the man 8just to take the chill off10 he may have helped himself from the common stock of red or white wine1 and affixed the label of your particular vintage as he came upstairs4 ,it is quite extraordinary how many men who pride themselves on knowing a good bottle of wine are deceived in this way4 ,there is an old story of three men dining together at a cheap restaurant4 ,one ordered a pint of ,pontet ,canet1 another a pint of ,medoc1 and the third a pint of ,beaune4 ,the waiter went to a speaking-tube1 and shouted down it1 8,three small reds60 ,the question of the substitution of corks has many and quaint developments4 ,an enormous trade is done at third- and fourth-rate restaurants with 8faked0 champagne1 which it were mere flattery to call even 8sparkling petrol40 ,the restaurateurs1 foreigners it is to be hoped to a man1 import a thoroughly innocuous thin white wine1 and then bottle and aerate it1 just as they would soda-water4 ,the corks are replaced 7after being drawn7 by genuine corks of well-known brands1 and there is a large market for good1 sound1 used champagne corks4 ,this market is supplied by the waiters at good-class restaurants1 where wines correct to designation are served4 ,if the diner does not happen to collect champagne corks 7and few of us have this weakness71 the waiter carefully gathers them when clearing the table for dessert4 ,this is a genuine letter addressed by such a waiter to a reputable firm of champagne importers3 8,i beg to send you a hundred corks of the well-known brands of ---- and ----4 ,they may be useful to you4 ,i am waiter at ----1 and am often asked by customers to recommend a wine4 ,awaiting your favourable reply1 ,i am1 etc40 ,illustration3 ,,les ,,boissons3 ,,par ,,bertall ,to face page #aid ,another kind of waiter1 neither as sharp nor as business-like as the foregoing1 on being asked what liqueur brandies they had1 replied1 8,two1 sir2 one's #ahed and the other's a shilling40 ,that kind of waiter1 however1 is more fool than thief4 ,a very pretty dodge1 and one1 moreover1 which the continental waiter finds very remunerative1 is to add the date of the month to the amount of the bill4 ,if you are dining on #bd ,june1 and the addition comes to thirty-five francs1 it is very easy to combine the two sums1 particularly if the date be somewhat carelessly inscribed at the head of the account4 ,the foreign waiter is a rare judge of character1 and can usually 7though not always7 tell beforehand whether or no it be safe to try any of his little games4 ,a favourite truc in foreign cafs1 and one for which one should always be on the look out1 is the giving of bad silver in the way of change1 as many foreign coinages are now obsolete1 and one cannot be too careful in this respect4 ,it is usually a matter of date4 ,the coin is not a bad coin1 but simply not current4 ,the ,swiss two-franc piece1 for instance1 is all right if ,madame ,helvetia is depicted sitting down1 but all wrong if she be standing up4 ,then the ,greek1 ,roumanian1 and ,turkish coins are non-admissible1 and certain ,italian cart-wheels or five-lire pieces no longer acceptable4 ,it requires some experience to recognize at a glance in a handful of silver how many coins are right and how many wrong4 ,a fraud of this kind was defeated1 and met with its own just reward1 only last summer at a ,french casino1 a notorious haunt of the 8slim0 waiter4 ,an ,englishman having had consommations to the amount of two francs1 paid with a louis1 and received eighteen francs change4 ,of this change he subsequently found that seven francs1 a five-franc and a two-franc piece1 were useless4 ,he returned the next night with some friends1 found out the same waiter1 ordered sundry refreshment1 and when paying-time came1 settled the bill with the useless coins he had received the night before4 ,the waiter refused to accept them1 the guest refused on his part to pay in any other coin4 ,the matter was referred to an official of the casino1 the matter explained1 and the ,english guest was supported4 ,for once1 therefore1 the waiter was hoist with his own petard4 ,it is common knowledge that the waiters among themselves have a regular trade in these coins2 they change hands at about one-third of their face value1 and the dupe is1 nine times out of ten1 the ,british tourist4 ,it would be unfair to suggest that all waiters are guilty of these or similar wiles4 ,there are hundreds of good1 trustworthy waiters who would disdain them1 and who know by experience1 precept1 or intuition that honesty is the best policy in the dining as in other worlds4 ,at a first-class waiters' training school or college1 such as the well-known ,radunski's1 at ,frankfort-on-the-,main1 or one or other of the ,swiss establishments1 all such tricks are sternly discouraged1 and the budding matre d'htel is strongly impressed with the golden rule that it does not pay1 in the long run1 to cheat clients in any shape or form4 ,this is especially true of the highest class of restaurant1 for waiters travel about ,europe a great deal1 and the man who waits on you at the ,carlton to-night may turn up at the ,ritz in ,paris next week1 at ,monte ,carlo next month1 and at ,homburg next year4 ,if he has cheated you badly1 you will remember him 7though not in the time-honoured waiter's sense71 and his good name will be gone once and for all4 ,i referred just now to the foreign schools for waiters where they are systematically1 and one might almost say scientifically1 trained for their profession1 which is neither an easy nor1 in the end1 an unremunerative one4 ,many sons of well-to-do ,german1 ,swiss1 and ,italian hotel and restaurant proprietors1 lads who have been to good schools and received a first-class education1 are content to begin at the very bottom of the ladder1 even as piccolo or boy attendant1 and gradually to work their way through all the ranks even to that of matre d'htel4 ,a ,german lad who wishes to become a waiter goes1 first to ,radunski1 at ,frankfort1 or to some other regular training school for waiters4 ,at the end of two years' hard work1 if he has gained his certificate1 he goes to an hotel or restaurant as an improver1 without salary1 for two years or more4 ,then he comes to ,london1 and1 for the sake of learning ,english1 enters an ,english family at a very small wage4 ,having mastered ,english1 he is off to ,france to learn ,french on similar terms4 ,finally1 he returns to ,london as an 8aid0 waiter1 and by attending to business he can rise to be a superintendent or a manager4 ,but the ,englishman wants to undertake skilled labour and earn full money without a proper training4 ,look1 on the other hand1 at the case of the ,english butler4 ,he is renowned throughout the world1 but then he was content to begin as a page and pass through the second stage of footman4 ,a well-known restaurant manager once said to me3 8,though we are patriotic1 we cannot allow patriotism to stand in the way of efficiency4 ,we must1 for our customers' sakes1 employ the best men we can get1 irrespective of nationality1 although we should prefer ,englishmen1 of course40 ,some attempt has been made1 is being made in fact1 to establish a training school for ,british waiters1 but its success is1 ,i fear1 problematical4 ,and this for various reasons4 ,few1 if any1 professional men would dream of their boys being trained to be waiters2 it would be beneath their shoddy suburban dignity4 ,also1 the class from which the average ,british waiter is drawn seems to be constitutionally incapable of acquiring even the merest smattering of a foreign language4 ,he despises any tongue but his own4 ,the ,british ,waiters' ,association has done excellent work on the right lines1 but very much remains still to be accomplished4 ,the average ,british waiter at the ordinary railway refreshment-room is usually a terribly slow and untidy individual4 ,true1 one has learned not to expect too much at a railway station4 ,a la gare1 comme la gare6 ,mr4 ,jerome ,k4 ,jerome has an amusing tirade on the subject4 ,he says3 8,the slowest waiter ,i know is the ,british railway refreshment-room waiter4 ,his very breathing1 regular1 harmonious1 penetrating1 instinct as it is with all the better attributes of a well-preserved grandfather's clock1 conveys suggestion of dignity and peace4 ,he is a huge1 impressive person4 ,there emanates from him an atmosphere of ,lotusland4 ,the otherwise unattractive room becomes an oasis of repose amid the turmoil of a fretful world40 ,of course the waiter's life is a trying and arduous one4 ,there is much worry by thoughtless clients4 ,there are disappointments1 and swindlers1 and rogues4 ,then the actual pedestrian exercise is not little4 ,a waiter in a restaurant in ,christiania one day provided himself with a pedometer before starting his work4 ,according to his calculations he took rather under #ajj1jjj steps1 covering some thirty-seven miles1 between #h a4m4 and #ab4cj a4m4 ,working and walking four days a week1 he calculated that he covered more than #gjjj miles in a year4 ,another danger is threatened by the waiter's serviette4 ,in the ,deutsche ,medizinische ,wochenschrift ,professor ,kron inaugurated a crusade against the napkin which the waiter flourishes as a sign of his profession1 but which1 in the ,professor's opinion1 is a deplorably unhygienic piece of linen and should be summarily abolished in all civilized countries4 ,dr4 ,kron notices how waiters carry this thing1 now in their hands1 now in their trousers pockets1 and sometimes under their arm4 ,they wipe table-tops with it1 wipe glasses1 knives1 forks with it1 wipe the manly perspiration from their brows and the beer froth from their lips4 ,no civilized man should tolerate its presence1 and the ,professor closes his article with the war-cry1 8,away with the waiter's napkin60 ,the ,professor1 it will be noticed1 refers to the 8rough0 waiter only1 and not to the civilized kind4 ,he also fails to suggest a substitute for the serviette4 ,in a book entitled 8,trouble in the ,balkans0 ,mr4 ,j4 ,l4 ,c4 ,booth says of ,athenian waiters3 8,robbery among the ,greeks is not a cultivated art2 it is a gift4 ,they are all born with it4 ,there is only one known method of getting square with an ,athenian waiter1 and that is to dine twice at the same place1 near the door4 ,you pay the first night40 ,enough of ,waiters1 however2 let us to a more congenial1 if allied topic1 the edible ,snail4 ,it is surely quite superfluous to enter upon any defence of ,snails as an article of food4 ,if you like them1 well1 you like them4 ,if you do not1 then you probably detest them4 ,no one ever just tolerated snails4 ,there is good historical precedent1 as shall be shown hereafter1 for their systematic cultivation4 ,they are most nutritious1 containing1 it is alleged1 twice the amount of proteid possessed by the oyster4 ,be that as it may1 they have been a desirable article of food for many centuries past4 ,paris1 according to the 8,figaro10 consumes eight hundred thousand kilogrammes of snails annually4 ,high though this figure is1 it will probably be exceeded1 for1 after having been in disgrace for some time1 the escargot has reconquered the favour of the gourmets4 ,burgundy and the two departments of ,savoy are the great sources of supply4 ,there they are bought for #h fr4 or #i fr4 the thousand4 ,the interesting molluscs are first sent to ,auxerre1 whence they are resold to ,paris as coming from the vines of ,macon and ,dijon4 ,a number of intelligent speculators also practise the breeding of snails1 which they place in parks enclosed in fences made of smoothly planed planks covered with tar to prevent their climbing out and escaping4 ,snails1 too1 play a very important part in our ordinary daily food1 although the snail-hater would scoff at the idea4 ,but it is even so4 ,what think you imparts to ,south ,down and ,dartmoor mutton its fine flavour and highly nutritive properties8 ,snails6 ,the grass upon which they feed teems with small snails of the ,helix caperata species1 and these1 with or without the will of the sheep1 form part of the diet of the latter1 taken with the grass4 ,the ,burgundy snail1 however1 has become more and more scarce during the past few seasons4 ,the ,council ,general of the ,department of the ,cte d',or seriously took up the question1 and asked the ,prefect of the department to authorize a close time for snails between #ae ,april and #ae ,june4 ,the ,prefect replied that he had no power to make such an order1 as the snail was not game4 ,the ,council thereupon voted a protest1 and expressed the hope that the snail might rank in the category of game1 and be accorded a close time4 ,the ,french sportsman's category of game is tolerably wide1 and includes birds which we do not rightly understand under that generic title4 ,still1 to include snails as game seems a trifle--well1 far-fetched4 ,it would be difficult to shoot snails1 save with a pop-gun at perhaps six feet4 ,it might be easier to stalk them4 ,after all1 we have a close time for oysters1 which are not much more game-like than snails4 ,the point for ,france surely is not whether snails should rank as reptiles or insects1 vermin or cattle1 but whether they are worth preserving4 ,and the ,burgundy snail is4 ,in the time of ,pliny1 we are told1 a concoction of snails beaten up in warm water was recommended for coughs4 ,the ,romans were very fond of snails1 which they fattened in special 8cochlearia10 feeding them with bran soaked in wine until they attained quite large dimensions4 ,charles the ,fifth of ,spain died of indigestion brought on by eating immoderately of snails4 ,mrs4 ,delaney1 writing in #ageh1 says3 8,two or three ,snails should be boiled in the barley-water which ,mary takes1 who coughs at night4 ,she must know nothing of it4 ,they give no manner of taste40 ,the first importation of ,snails into ,england has been attributed to ,sir ,kenelm ,digby 7#afde7 for his wife4 ,also the apple snail was brought to the ,south ,downs of ,surrey and ,sussex1 as well as to ,box ,hill in the sixteenth century1 by one of the ,earls of ,arundel for his ,countess1 who dressed and ate them to promote the cure of consumption1 from which she suffered4 ,snails did not really come into ,french vogue until the return of ,louis ,,xviii1 in #ahad1 on which occasion the ,bishop of ,autun entertained the ,emperor ,alexander of ,russia4 ,the popular host1 who was a famous gastronome1 had in his service a most accomplished cook1 the best in ,paris at that time2 they put their heads together and hit upon ,snails as the most suitable novelty for presenting to the imperial guest4 ,together with this dish1 which was handed round1 there appeared on the card under the heading ,escargots la ,bourgignonne a description of the delicious seasoning with which each shell was filled up4 ,in #ahed1 ,m4 de la ,marr1 of ,paris1 set forth the virtues of ,helicin as a glutinous extract obtained from snails1 and which had long been given in broth as a successful domestic remedy for pulmonary phthisis4 ,gipsies are great snail eaters1 but they first starve these gasteropods1 which are given to devour poisonous plants1 and must be rendered free from the same1 for it is certain that ,snails retain for a time the flavour and odour of the vegetables on which they feed4 ,the above most interesting particulars may be read1 at greater length1 in a compendious and reliable work1 entitled 8,meals ,medicinal10 by ,dr4 ,w4 ,t4 ,fernie4 ,there is an increasing export of ,snails from ,england to ,america4 ,as many as ten thousand are packed in a cask1 of which hundreds are shipped annually4 ,but there is and always has been a large home consumption1 particularly in certain counties4 ,in some ,gloucestershire towns they quite outclass whelks and winkles as a snack to accompany a glass of beer1 and they are commonly hawked by the basket1 cooked ready for eating1 round the public-houses4 ,snail broth or stewed snails is a well-known and thoroughly approved rural remedy for consumption1 and indeed all chest complaints4 ,in ,hampshire1 to help weak eyes1 snails are made into a poultice with soaked breadcrusts4 ,the glass men at ,newcastle have a ,snail ,feast once a year4 ,they collect the snails in the fields and hedgerows on the ,sunday before the anniversary1 and their wives wash1 clean1 and stuff them according to established tradition4 ,according to the authority of ,mr4 ,f4 ,h4 ,elsey1 librarian of the ,surrey ,archological ,society1 the edible snail1 ,helix pomatia1 was most probably introduced into this country by the ,romans from ,gaul4 ,it is not peculiar to ,surrey1 for it is found in ,kent2 and ,sowerby1 in his 8,illustrated ,index of ,british ,shells10 gives the southern chalky districts4 ,it is no doubt confined to these by the large size of its shell1 requiring the secretion of lime for its formation4 ,this snail hibernates from ,october to ,april in a subterranean burrow4 ,it has been said this snail was brought to this country from ,italy by ,thomas1 ,earl of ,arundel 7,earl ,marshal74 8,his lady10 says ,salmon1 8delighting in such food40 ,evelyn remarks that 8this huge and fleshy snail was had in delicus by the ,earl himself40 ,mr4 ,elsey entirely agrees with ,lieut4-,col4 ,godwin-,austen1 the well-known authority upon mollusca1 that the snail was here long before the ,earl of ,arundel's time4 ,two very fine shells of this snail1 one measuring #a in4 long1 #a in4 broad1 and #a in4 high1 can be seen in the ,surrey ,archological ,museum1 ,castle ,arch1 ,guildford4 ,these two specimens were found by ,mr4 ,elsey a few years ago just below where ,mr4 ,w4 ,p4 ,trench's house is built adjoining the ,echo ,pits1 ,guildford1 in a hedge now grubbed up4 ,there is a suggestion in ,spenser that the edible snail is the poor man's oyster1 and ,dr4 ,yeo confirms this4 ,some little while ago ,canon ,horsley strongly recommended the more general adoption of snails as an article of food1 although he naively admitted that he had never eaten one himself4 ,thereupon the 8,lancet0 said3 8,there is nothing to be said against the proposal from a dietetic point of view2 the snail is both nutritious and tasty40 ,the professional journal goes on to say3-- 8,the snail has been called #8the poor man's oyster1' though we do not remember to have seen it eaten raw4 ,we know1 however1 that it makes an excellent fish sauce1 and may be used for the same purpose as oyster sauce4 ,possibly also a few snails in a steak-and-kidney pudding would increase the tastiness of this popular food4 8,care must be exercised in the choice of the snail for food purposes1 as it is well known that snails feed on poisonous plants1 and it is the custom in ,france to allow a few days to elapse after they have been taken from their feeding ground1 in order that any poisonous matters may be eliminated4 8,according to analysis1 very nearly #ij per cent of the solid matter of the snail is proteid matter1 available directly for repairing the tissues of the body4 8,besides this1 there is about #f per cent of fat and #d per cent of mineral matter1 including phosphates40 ,according to an excellent gastronomic authority1 the best snails in ,paris are to be found at ,prunier's1 in the ,rue ,duphot1 near the ,madeleine4 ,he boils his snails in a liquid which is partly composed of good white wine1 with a little garlic and bay leaves1 thyme1 onions1 and carrots in it4 ,the snails are served in small silver bowls1 and the weapon of offence is a two-pronged silver fork4 ,the first time that one holds a long black steaming thing on a fork1 and hesitates whether to put it into one's mouth or not1 is rather a strange moment4 ,most people who try the experiment of snail-eating take the snail out of their mouths quicker than they put it in4 ,burgundy is the correct wine to drink with your snails4 ,the ,hungarian manner of cooking snails is1 after the boiling and cleaning1 to cut them small1 mix them with chopped-up anchovies1 and to serve them hot on hot toast1 a squeeze of lemon and a dash of red pepper giving the dish its final touches4 ,the curiosity of the ,hungarian method of cooking and serving the snails is that no man1 unless he was told1 would know what he was eating4 ,francatelli1 in his 8,modern ,cook10 strongly recommends snails1 and gives a method of cooking them1 nearly akin to the usual ,french way4 ,in fact1 nearly all foreign cookery books give one or more recipes1 either as broth1 stew1 or la ,bourgignon4 ,the 8,london ,gazette0 of #bc ,march1 #agci1 tells us that 8,mrs4 ,joanna ,stephens received from the ,government five thousand pounds for revealing the secret of her famous cure for stone in the bladder4 ,this consisted chiefly of egg shells and ,snails1 mixed with ,soap1 ,honey1 and ,herbs40 ,rather earlier than this date 8,lady ,honeywood's ,snail ,water0 was much used for complaints of the chest4 ,defoe1 writing in #agbb1 described a cookshop 8where you may bespeak a dinner for four or five shillings a head up to a guinea or what sum you will02 one of the items being 8a ragout of fatted snails40 ,has any literary critic ever noticed the curious similarity between a verse of ,sir ,john ,suckling and ,robert ,herrick1 who were1 of course1 contemporaries8 ,i am reminded of it because ,snails are used by the latter where ,mice are referred to by the former4 ,in ,sir ,john ,suckling's 8,ballad upon a ,wedding10 everybody knows the lines3-- ,her feet beneath her petticoat ,like little mice stole in and out4 ,in ,robert ,herrick's poem1 8,on ,her ,feet10 occurs this verse3-- ,her pretty feet like snails1 did creep ,a little out1 and then ,as if they played at bo-peep1 ,did soon draw in again4 ,the comparison is interesting4 ,quite recently a case brought under the ,workmen's ,compensation ,act in ,paris revealed the existence of a hitherto unknown industry4 ,this was none other than the manufacture of artificial snails4 ,the evidence showed that a workman had had a finger broken by a machine whose object was to cut boiled calves' lights into portions shaped like a small corkscrew for insertion into the empty shells of snails which had been thrown into dustbins after their contents had been consumed1 and thence gathered by the chiffonniers1 or ragpickers1 and sold to the proprietor of the factory4 ,the revelation caused a sensation of horror among the ,parisian population1 for whom the succulent snail is a delicious delicacy partaken of on all occasions of festivity1 and purchased at prices ranging from #f;d4 to #h;d4 per dozen4 ,it was stated by the injured workman that by the substitution of calves' lights the fabricated 8snails0 could be sold at the factory at #b;d4 a dozen4 ,the small horticultural speculator in ,germany has of late years been taking a leaf from the book of his neighbours1 and become an ardent cultivator of the luscious edible snail1 a delicacy ,hans is now as assiduous in tending for ultimate sale in the market as ever was ,jacques ,bonhomme4 ,july is considered the best month for collecting this gasteropodous mollusc prior to fattening him for his final appearance in the shape of a dainty parsley-and-butter-bespattered bonne bouche for some 8good liver0 in ,berlin or elsewhere4 ,these large white snails come from the vineyards principally about the ,rhine and the ,moselle2 the breeder for gastronomic purposes1 however1 confines his little flock1 when once secured from amid the umbrageous vines1 to a special little 8run0 of their own1 where henceforth their whole duty consists in 8doing themselves well40 ,the 8run0 is fixed up on a sunny stretch of lawn1 hemmed in with boards upon which is smeared clay mixed with vinegar and salt and water--so as to prevent any crawling out of bounds4 ,in the ,united ,states edible snails are frequently to be seen exposed for sale2 but they are not raised in that country1 and those on sale have been shipped to ,america alive from ,europe4 ,in ,vienna1 again1 during ,lent there is a snail market1 the snails coming in barrels from ,swabia4 ,the great centre for the consumption of snails1 however1 is ,paris and some of the ,french provinces4 ,there is1 indeed1 a very large trade in this commodity in ,france1 the large white snail being in special demand in ,paris1 while the garden and wood snails are in common use among poorer consumers in all parts of ,france4 ,the collecting of snails is carried on in the ,french provinces all day long by men1 women1 and children1 who with iron hooks search for them at the foot of thorn hedges and under ivy1 and in winter in old walls4 ,if lucky1 a good searcher will collect from one thousand to fifteen hundred snails4 ,these are paid for according to their weight1 about a thousand snails averaging ten kilogrammes1 and the payment varies with the prices current in the ,paris market1 but it usually ranges from twenty to forty centimes per kilo4 ,the work1 therefore1 cannot be said to be well paid4 ,a curious superstition existed for many years with regard to the ,snail in ,southern ,germany4 ,practically all snail shells have their volutes or spirals 7,helix--a snail--a screw--a spiral7 twisting from right to left4 ,once in about twenty thousand snails the twist is found to be from left to right4 ,this snail was then dubbed 8,the ,snail ,king10 and was sold at a fancy price as an amulet or luck-bringer4 ,it would be curious to know whether this custom has been noticed elsewhere4 ,in a biography of ,adam ,smith1 by ,francis ,w4 ,hirst1 a nice snail story is told of ,professors ,black and ,hutton1 the fathers of the modern sciences of modern chemistry and modern geology4 ,it so chanced that ,black and ,hutton had held some discourse together upon the folly of abstaining from feeding on the crustaceous creatures of the land1 when those of the sea were considered as delicacies4 ,snails were known to be nutritious and wholesome1 even 8sanative0 in some cases4 ,the epicures of ancient ,rome enumerated the snails of ,lucca among the richest and rarest delicacies1 and the modern ,italians still held them in esteem4 ,so a gastronomic experiment was resolved on4 ,the snails were procured1 dieted for a time1 then stewed4 8,a huge dish of snails was placed before them2 but philosophers are but men after all2 and the stomachs of both doctors began to revolt against the proposed experiment4 ,nevertheless1 if they looked with disgust on the snails1 they retained their awe for each other2 so that each1 conceiving the symptoms of internal revolt peculiar to himself1 began with infinite exertion to swallow in very small quantities the mess which he loathed4 ,dr4 ,black at length #8showed the white feather1' but in a very delicate manner1 as if to sound the opinion of his messmate4 #8,doctor1' he said1 in his precise and quiet style1 #8,doctor1 do you not think that they taste a little--a very little green8' #8,d----d green1 d----d green indeed6 ,tak' them awa'--tak' them awa6' vociferated ,dr4 ,hutton1 starting up from the table and giving full vent to his feelings40 ,as a final tribute to the usefulness of the ,snail1 it may not be generally known that they are matchless as window cleaners4 ,an old coloured woman selling snails occasionally makes her appearance in certain streets in ,philadelphia4 ,she carries an old basket in which the snails repose on freshly sprinkled leaves4 ,these are not sold as food1 but for cleaning the outside of windowpanes4 ,the snail is damped and placed upon the glass1 where it at once moves around and devours all insects and foreign matter1 leaving the pane as bright and clear as crystal4 ,there are old-established business places in ,philadelphia where the upper windows1 when cleaned at all1 are always cleaned by snails4 ,there is also a fine market for snails among the owners of aquariums1 as they keep the glass clean and bright4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,dishes ,,of ,,history 8,only a pomegranate is he who1 when he gapes his mouth1 displays the contents of his heart40 ,,japanese ,,proverb4 ,history and cookery are linked together so closely that a study of the one science implies1 or should imply1 a study of the other4 ,for the best part of a century and a half the notable names of contemporary history are allied to dishes which perpetuated their glory and have come down to us as ornaments alike of the monarchy and the menu4 ,the period is of course that of the fourteenth and fifteenth ,louis of ,france1 and for several 7mainly esoteric7 reasons that brilliant and fascinating age produced most of the classic dishes of high cookery1 dishes which have become1 so to say1 standardized1 and which every chef who respects the traditions of his art serves1 or ought to serve1 in precisely the same manner in which they were designed by their original inventors4 ,the average diner1 when he sees on the menu of his ,masonic banquet1 his annual ,mansion ,house dinner1 or his ,city ,company feast1 the name of some historic celebrity tacked on to the roast1 the entre or the sweet1 recks little of its origin and inner meaning4 ,to him it is just something to be eaten1 nothing more or less4 ,and yet1 if the chef be competent1 properly trained1 and alive to his educational responsibilities1 these dishes have each their own story1 their own interest1 and their own special and peculiar virtue4 ,take as an instance ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,maintenon4 ,these succulent dainties perpetuate for all time the memory of a lady1 who1 whatsoever her faults1 was at least charming1 interesting1 and something more than passing fair4 ,when the ,grand ,monarque became queasy and past his prime1 ,madame invented1 out of her own powdered head1 these cutlets1 which in their envelopes of paper 7en papillotes7 guarded the royal digestion against the evils of too much grease4 ,again1 ,cailles la ,mirepoix owe their origin to the ,marshal of that name2 ,poulardes la ,montmorency were actually first cooked by the ,duke de ,montmorency2 ,petites ,bouches la ,reine are called after ,maria ,leczinska1 wife of ,louis ,quinze2 and filets de ,volaille la ,bellevue were evolved for the ,king by the ,pompadour1 who excelled in the dainty manipulation of her silver batterie de cuisine4 ,the ,regent ,orleans is responsible for pain la d',orlans1 a very light and digestible form of bread2 and his daughter1 the ,duchesse de ,berri1 first conceived and executed those delightful morsels filets de lapereau la ,berri4 ,the ,duchess de ,villeroy1 afterwards ,marchale de ,luxembourg1 a brilliant light of the ,court of the fifteenth ,louis1 thought out1 cooked1 and christened the poulets la ,villeroy1 which remain1 and deservedly so1 a toothsome and delightful dish1 even unto this day4 ,the ,chartreuse la ,mauconseil is called after the ,marquise of that name2 and the ,vol-au-,vent la ,nesle1 which is still often met with1 though not always classically cooked1 derives its name from the ,marquis de ,nesle 7not he of the ,tower71 who refused a peerage 8to remain premier marquis of ,france40 ,in rather earlier days the ,marquis de ,bchamel invented a cream sauce for turbot and cod which still1 if somewhat perverted1 perpetuates his name4 ,gigot la ,mailly was the result of profound study on the part of the first mistress of ,louis ,,xv1 who by her culinary art attempted1 and succeeded1 in alienating the royal affection from her own sister1 who was an undesirable rival4 ,soupe la ,cond was1 in later years1 called after the famous cousin of ,louis ,,xviii2 and the ,prince de ,soubise1 notorious under ,louis ,,xv for giving great dinners1 and paying nobody but his cooks and the young ladies of the opera1 lent his name1 through his cook1 ,bertrand1 to the onion sauce which we still hold dear4 ,french cooks of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries who did honour to their employers by christening magnificent creations after them only copied previous ,apician artists1 who1 according to the 8,de ,opsoniis10 named their inventions after ,varro1 ,julius ,matius1 ,julius ,fronto1 ,celsinius1 ,vitellius1 ,commodus1 and ,didius ,julianus4 ,but the chefs of the golden age of cookery also delighted to honour men of comparatively humble station who took a keen and semi-professional interest in the art of la gueule1 as ,montaigne calls it4 ,there was1 for instance1 a certain petit abb1 le pre ,douillet1 to whom much honour is done in those four delightful volumes of cook-lore entitled 8,les ,soupers de la ,cour40 ,they were published in #agee1 and were written or compiled by one ,manon1 a literary cook of the period to whom reference has already been made4 ,the abb appears to have been much appreciated by the author1 for his books contain delectable recipes for ,poulets1 ,brochet1 ,merlans1 ,cailles1 and ,champignons1 all au ,pre ,douillet1 not1 it will be noticed1 la 7manire de7 ,pre ,douillet1 but just au ,pre ,douillet1 a rare and great distinction4 ,the best-known official cooks of ,louis ,,xv were ,moustier and ,vincent de la ,chapelle4 ,the latter is responsible for a very serious and noteworthy cookery book which has never lacked honour in its own and other countries4 ,de la ,gorse mentions a dinner given by the ,king1 at ,st4 ,hubert1 where all the dishes were prepared by the distinguished guests1 such as the ,prince de ,beaufremont1 the ,marquis de ,polignac1 the ,duke de ,goutant1 the ,duke d',ayen1 the ,duke de ,coigny1 and the ,duke de la ,vallire2 the ,king himself contributed a ,poularde au ,basilic4 ,such a famous gourmet as ,richelieu naturally has left his mark in culinary literature4 ,we have the ,chartreuse la ,cardinal1 ,boudin de poulet la ,richelieu1 ,gigot la ,richelieu1 and many more4 ,the rather famous potage la ,camerani1 a most excellent concoction1 is called after a notability of that name1 to whom ,grimod de la ,reynire dedicated volume one of his immortal 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 as 8one of the most erudite epicures of ,france40 ,king ,stanislas ,leszcnyski of ,poland invented the ,baba to make amends for the harshness of his own name1 which the ,french tongue found hard to pronounce4 ,its original ingredients were ,german yeast1 flour1 butter1 eggs1 cream1 sugar1 saffron1 candied peel1 raisins1 currants1 and ,madeira1 ,malaga1 or rum4 ,according to ,brillat-,savarin1 the ,baba is especially beloved by women2 8it renders her more plastic1 and man more expansive--only to look at it the eyes laugh and the heart sings40 ,who thinks nowadays of the battle when he degustates ,poulet la ,marengo8 ,and yet nothing is more authentic than its inception on that memorable occasion4 ,the battle occurred1 it may be remembered1 on #ad ,june1 #ahjj4 ,napoleon had1 naturally1 a somewhat hurried meal4 ,there was no butter in camp1 but plenty of sound olive oil4 ,so the casserole was bottomed with oil1 to which was added the garlic and the mignonette4 ,the fowl was then moistened with white wine and garnished with sippets of toast1 mushrooms1 and morels1 in default of truffles4 ,the result was pronounced to be exquisite4 ,nowadays we omit the mignonette and substitute a bay leaf1 thyme1 and parsley2 garlic is thought to be too strong1 so we use shalot2 the mushrooms are still permitted1 but we ignore the morels4 ,and so we have the ,poulet la ,marengo4 ,literature has been honoured by ,carme in his ,soupe la ,lamartine1 history in ,potage la ,dumesnil1 philosophy in ,pure ,buffon1 and just before the death of the great artist he invented a vegetable soup which he christened ,soupe la ,victor ,hugo4 ,this same cook paid the doctor who cured him of indigestion by dedicating to him his ,perche la ,gaubert4 ,in rather later years we find a ,poularde la ,george ,sand invented by ,azma1 formerly chef at ,prince's4 ,it is stewed in white wine1 flavoured with crayfish1 butter and tails1 truffles and olives1 with a garnishing of feuilletage4 ,the stage is ever prominent in gastronomic annals2 it must suffice to mention ,filets de ,sole la ,belle ,otro1 ,pche ,melba1 ,croustades la ,coquelin1 ,salade ,rachel1 and ,consomm ,sarah ,bernhardt1 all of which are nowadays fairly standard dishes4 ,although no man was ever more susceptible to flattery and adulation than ,alexandre ,dumas 7pre71 yet there were marked degrees in the way in which he accepted such complimentary tribute and homage1 varying from the mere merci1 mon cher1 in reply to congratulations on a recently published book1 to a cordial embrace and the swearing of an everlasting friendship to the man who praised his cooking4 ,dumas's partiality for travelling and hunting developed his culinary instincts1 and he has related in his 8,journey through ,spain0 how dire necessity suggested to him the excellence of salad mixed without oil or vinegar4 ,references to cookery are scattered here and there all through his works1 particularly in his 8,impressions de ,voyage10 and again in his 8,propos d',art et de ,cuisine10 wherein occurs the famous 8,causerie ,culinaire10 embodying the recipe for 8macaroncello0 and the delightful address to his readers1 8,je prie ,dieu qu'il vous tienne en bon apptit1 vous conserve en bon estomac1 et vous garde de faire de la littrature40 ,the author of 8,an ,englishman in ,paris0 describes how he watched ,dumas cook a whole dinner1 consisting of 8soupe aux choux10 a wonderful carp1 8ragout de mouton la hongroise10 8rti de faisans10 and a 8salade japonaise40 ,he adds3 8,i never dined like that before or after--not even a week later1 when ,dr4 ,vron and ,sophie made the amende honorable in the ,rue ,taitbout40 ,in the kitchen1 as in the theatre1 the great novelist was master of all difficulties4 ,he delighted to make a triumph of an opportunity of which others would only have made a failure4 ,for himself he would have been content with a couple of eggs2 but if1 as he wrote1 he heard the cook complaining1 8,what shall ,i do8 ,there are twenty to dinner this evening1 and ,i have only three tomatoes left for my sauce6 ,it is impossible60 then the master would lift his head and cry1 8,let me see what ,i can do60 ,so saying1 he would rush headlong into the kitchen just as he was in his usual working dress1 with his shirt-sleeves rolled up above his elbows1 and calling everybody in the place round him to watch his prowess1 he would labour among the stewpans for a good hour1 ordering all those who had followed him to the kitchen to different menial tasks--one to slice the carrots1 one to peel potatoes1 one to chop up herbs--turning them all into scullions in fact4 ,the blustering1 boisterous genius as easily dominated the kitchen as he did the literary world of the time4 ,his cooking was energy and bustle personified4 ,meat and butter were mingled with fine wines in the saucepans1 half a dozen sauces were being watched in the bain-marie1 and all the while he was cracking jokes and laughing at them most loudly himself4 ,it was a wonderful and inspiring sight1 and1 as may be imagined1 ,dumas seasoned the conversation as well as the dishes with the spice of his wit and humour4 ,no matter how serious his thoughts had been a few moments before1 it seemed as if the atmosphere of the kitchen had the power to dissipate them4 ,he forgot all his ever-present cares1 and was radiant with grease and hilarity4 ,then suddenly1 without the slightest warning1 he would utter a melodramatic scream and rush out of the kitchen to his study4 ,he had remembered the final dnoment of a scene he had left unfinished4 ,he would reinstate himself at his writing-table and take up the thread of the story as if no interruption whatever had occurred4 ,many a dish that delighted his guests was cooked in this extraordinary fashion1 between two thrilling chapters1 and the wonderful part about his culinary work was that the very dishes and ingredients seemed in some unaccountable way to accommodate themselves to his casual and erratic manner4 ,what would have been utterly ruined under any other chef seemed to succeed even extra well under his neglect4 ,lacroix 7le bibliophile ,jacob7 said of him3 8,assuredly it is a great attainment to be a romancist1 but it is by no means a mediocre glory to be a cook4 ,romancist or cook1 ,dumas is a chef1 and the two vocations appear in him to go hand in hand1 or1 rather1 to be joined in one40 ,dumas often said1 8,when ,i have time ,i shall write a cookery book40 ,this was to be the crowning work of his literary career4 ,he was constantly enumerating the vast sums which he alleged had been offered to him by various publishing houses for the right to produce this magnum opus4 ,it is not generally known that in the agreement which he made with the brothers ,michael ,lvy1 in connexion with the rights of reproduction of his works already written and those that he had contracted to write in the future1 he made the single exception of the famous forthcoming cookery book4 ,the great work 8,la ,grande ,dictionnaire de la ,cuisine10 of #aaeb pages1 was eventually written in #ahfi2 the manuscript was delivered to the publisher1 ,alphonse ,lemerre1 in #ahgj1 and whilst the book was in the press the author died and the ,franco-,prussian ,war broke out4 ,its publication was therefore delayed until #ahgc1 when it appeared with a dedication to ,d4 ,j4 ,vuillemot1 a noted htelier1 who had managed the ,caf de la ,france1 and had then opened on his own account1 in #ahfb1 a restaurant near the ,madeleine1 which proved a most disastrous failure4 ,he had been previously the proprietor of the ,htel de la ,cloche et de la ,bouteille at ,compigne4 ,dumas had made his acquaintance when hunting in the vicinity1 and was afterwards in the habit of taking refuge with him when he wanted to be undisturbed in his literary work4 ,the arrest of some of the personages in 8,monte ,cristo0 takes place at ,vuillemot's hotel1 and ,dumas christened after him the famous ,lapin la ,vuillemot1 which1 he says1 8,you must absolutely have killed yourself40 ,the great dictionary is perhaps something of a disappointment4 ,it is laboured1 unspontaneous1 and1 save in the characteristic preface1 hardly worthy of its illustrious author4 ,nevertheless it is vast in its comprehensiveness1 for1 besides every imaginable dish1 old and new1 of the so-called legitimate cuisine1 it includes receipts for lambs' tails glaces la chicore1 elephants' feet1 fillets of kangaroo flesh1 snails la ,provenale1 and directions as to the right treatment of the babiroussa1 or wild ,asian pig4 ,contrary to his usual custom elsewhere1 ,dumas gives full credit to the other culinary authors whom he quotes1 and he includes recipes from such acknowledged authorities as ,brbant1 ,grimod de la ,reynire1 ,magny1 ,grignon1 ,carme1 ,vfour1 and others4 ,he gives thirty-one methods of cooking carp1 and sixteen for treating artichokes4 ,there is to be found also the ,javanese formula for cooking halcyons' nests1 and an elaborate essay on the hocco4 ,the appendix consists of the celebrated 8,etude sur la ,moutarde10 which is a most flagrant rclame of la maison ,bornibus1 but is amusing for its sheer effrontery and impudence4 ,there was always something colossal about the man1 even when he wrote about mustard4 ,in ,molire's 8,le ,bourgeois ,gentilhomme0 7,act iv4 sc4 #a71 in the scene between ,dorante and ,dorimne1 we find this delightful passage3-- 8,si ,damis s'en tait ml1 tout serait dans les rgles2 il y aurait partout de l'lgance et de l'rudition1 et il ne manquerait pas de vous exagrer lui-mme toutes les pices du repas qu'il vous donnerait1 et de vous faire tomber d'accord de sa haute capacit dans la science des bons morceaux2 de vous parler d'un pain de rive biseau dor1 relev de crote partout1 croquant tendrement sous la dent2 d'un vin sve veloute1 arm d'un verre qui n'est point trop commandant2 d'un carr de mouton gourmand de persil2 d'une longe de veau de rivire1 longue comme cela1 blanche1 dlicate1 et qui1 sous les dents1 est une vraie pte d'amande2 de perdrix releves d'un fumet surprenant2 et pour son opra1 d'une soupe bouillon perl1 soutenue d'un jeune gros dindon1 cantonne de pigeonneaux et courone d'oignons maris avec de la chicore40 ,from this dinner-programme the taste of the day may fairly be gauged1 and it will not be forgotten that it is in this immortal play that the famous line occurs3-- ,je vis de bonne soupe1 et non de beau langage2 which is so often quoted and misquoted4 ,but cooks are a trying and troublesome race1 with extraordinarily perverse traditions of their own1 a frequent antipathy to learn anything new1 and an absolutely ridiculous partiality to 8improve0 old-fashioned dishes according to their own ideas4 ,there ought to be condign punishment meted out to any cook who makes any so-called alteration or improvement to any well-known standardized dish1 of which the composition1 flavour1 and artistic completeness have been settled once and for all1 and to touch which is something akin to sacrilege4 ,really good1 intelligent1 careful cooks get on in their profession1 and often end up by opening establishments of their own4 ,many a restaurant proprietor has qualified as a first-class chef4 ,does any one1 by the way1 know the origin of the word 8restaurant08 ,you may search your encyclopdia in vain2 but the matter is really as simple as shelling peas4 ,the first public eating-house1 as distinct from the rtisseur1 who cooked food 8to be eaten off the premises10 was opened in ,paris by a cook called ,boulanger in #agej4 ,over his shop he displayed a sign bearing this inscription in kitchen ,latin3 8,venite omnes qui stomacho laboretis1 et ego restaurabo vos40 ,this was taken up1 gallicized1 and passed into common parlance4 ,hence our modern use of the term1 which1 after all1 is only a hundred and fifty years old4 ,in rereading an old book by the never-to-be-forgotten ,guy de ,maupassant ,i came across a delightful passage which so aptly describes the feelings of a true gourmet that ,i am tempted to transcribe it here for the benefit of all who belong to that noble fraternity4 8,to be wanting in the sense of taste is to have a stupid mouth1 just as one may have a stupid mind4 ,a man who cannot distinguish between a langouste and a lobster1 between a herring--that admirable fish that carries within it all the savours and aromas of the sea--and a mackerel or a whiting1 is comparable only to a man who could confound ,balzac with ,eugne ,sue1 and a symphony by ,beethoven with a military march composed by some regimental bandmaster40 ,this delicacy of taste was obviously denied to ,mr4 ,g4 ,bernard ,shaw's ,uncle ,james in 8,man and ,superman10 of whom it is written3-- 8,uncle ,james had a first-rate cook2 he couldn't digest anything except what she cooked4 ,well1 the poor man was shy and hated society4 ,but his cook was proud of her skill1 and wanted to serve up dinners to princes and ambassadors4 ,to prevent her from leaving him1 that poor old man had to give a big dinner twice a month1 and suffer agonies of awkwardness40 ,another writer of to-day1 of quite peculiar charm and knowledge1 ,mr4 ,e4 ,h4 ,cooper1 in his novel 8,a ,fool's ,year10 has a delightful description of a modern ,london dinner-party1 of the sort too often met with in the houses of those who ought to know so much better4 8,mr4 ,hopper's dinner was a thing to be remembered rather than eaten4 #8,the things ought to be put into a museum of curiosities1' said ,st4 ,ives1 looking round him wearily2 #8not on a decent ,english dinner-table4 ,i've had some turtle-soup and a bit of tongue smothered in jam1 and now ,i'm hungry4 ,would there be a row if ,i sent for some bread and cheese8 ,strawberries as big as peaches1 and peaches as big as young footballs1 may be very remarkable to look at1 but ,i'm not going to eat them4 ,that waiter looks kind2 ,i'm going to ask him to bring me a piece of ,stilton hidden between two biscuits4 ,don't give me away1 ,lady ,merton4 ,i'll do you a good turn when ,i find you starving at a banquet of this kind4 ,but you know better than to come to one without eating a couple of muffins and half a pound of plum-cake first4'0 ,the clamour as to the inefficiency of the typical 8plain cook0 is incessant and fully justified4 ,the remedies suggested are usually futile or inexpedient4 ,nothing is more difficult than to get a simple meal well cooked4 ,nothing is more easy1 in ,london at any rate1 than to get a misdescribed semi-,french dinner evilly cooked4 ,is there no way out of this quandary8 ,yes4 ,it consists in the training and apprenticing of ,british-born boys to the profession of cookery4 ,for many years past all the leading men-cooks in clubs1 restaurants1 and large private establishments have been1 practically without exception1 foreigners1 whether ,french1 ,swiss1 or ,italian4 ,in ,braithwaite's 8,rules and ,orders for the ,government of the ,house of an ,earl10 published in the seventeenth century1 the author writes3 8,in ancient times noblemen contented themselves to be served with such as had been bred in their own houses1 but of late times none could please some but ,italians and ,frenchmen40 ,it is much the same in our own day4 ,the profession of cookery among ,britons has died out1 and1 as a result1 we are fed1 outside our own homes1 by scores of intelligent1 well-educated1 practised foreign cooks1 who do their work1 for the most part1 excellently1 but who could be replaced in time by the genuine home-trained article4 ,although ,france1 and particularly the ,midi1 has produced the greatest cooks1 there is no reason why ,england should lag behind4 ,it is certain that many purely insular dishes1 such as ,irish stew1 roast beef and ,yorkshire pudding1 tripe and onions1 and such-like1 can never be properly cooked by foreigners4 ,they have not the tradition1 and are too anxious to impart their own personal touch to the dish4 ,it is quite true that a really great chef is as rare as a really great poet or a really great general4 ,but there is a lesser grade of thoroughly competent chef who may most certainly be evolved from the well-educated middle-class boy of to-day4 ,the efforts of the ,food and ,cookery ,association of ,london towards this end should be actively supported by all those who are interested in the nationalization of the kitchen and the reform of our digestion4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,x ,,lenten ,,fare ,festina lente ,the most strenuous ,lenten faster on record was1 ,i venture to think1 ,st4 ,macarius1 who was annually in the habit of passing forty days and forty nights in a standing position with no more substantial support than a few raw cabbage-leaves on each recurring ,sunday4 ,simeon ,stylites was even more abstemious1 for he ate nothing from the beginning to the end of ,lent1 passing his time in praying and bowing from his columnar elevation4 ,an admiring monk has placed it upon record that1 possibly by way of assuaging the pangs of hunger1 ,simeon made on one day twelve hundred and forty-four separate and distinct bows4 ,it is doubtless an excellent thing to have the strength of mind and body to be able to act up to one's convictions4 ,we should find it difficult to realize the idea of a ,bishop of ,london never breaking his fast till the evening1 and then being satisfied with a solitary egg1 an inch of bread1 and a cup of milk and water2 such1 however1 was the daily ,lenten fare of ,st4 ,cedd1 a predecessor of ,dr4 ,winnington ,ingram in the ,metropolitan diocese4 ,it is told of ,st4 ,francis of ,assisi that he ate nothing dressed by fire1 unless he were very ill1 and even then he caused it to be covered with ashes1 or dipped into cold water4 ,his common daily food was dry bread strewn with ashes1 but--the historian adds--he did not condemn his followers to the rigorous diet which he himself observed4 8,brother ,ass10 as he familiarly called that self1 was1 in his own opinion1 worthy of no better fare4 ,but there is another and lighter side to the picture4 ,the ,roman ,catholic ,church1 especially the upper classes thereof1 in long bygone times1 did not always submit patiently to the stricter ethics of fasting4 ,kings and princes used to send medical and theological certificates to the ,pope1 begging humbly to be allowed to eat meat4 ,the ,holy ,father was even begged to adjudicate on individual dishes4 ,pope ,zacharias forbade roast hare4 ,under ,pope ,john ,,xxii the ,franciscans were much vexed as to whether they really owned the soup that they ate1 or whether they only had the bare usufruct thereof4 ,as only three or four of them were burned as martyrs1 and no thrones were overset nor provinces ravaged1 ,voltaire termed these debates about niceties of diet des sottises paisibles4 ,in the reign of ,henry ,,viii the minutes of the ,lenten dinner included such fish as3 a whole ling1 great jowls of salt salmon1 great salt eels1 great jowls of salt sturgeon1 fresh ling1 fresh turbot1 great pike1 great jowls of fresh salmon1 great rudds1 baked turbots1 salmon chines1 roasted lampreys and roasted lamprons1 great burbutts1 and--when the fishing season was favourable--porpoise1 sea-wolf1 grampus1 and whale4 ,a fairly compendious epitome of fish-food1 but information is lacking as to the modes of preparation4 ,the most sensible remark on the fasting question was probably made by ,erasmus1 who said1 when he was asked why he did not fast3 8,my mind is ,catholic1 but my stomach is ,lutheran40 ,but then ,erasmus was a very broad-minded sort of person4 ,it is only necessary to read the finest novel in the ,english language1 ,charles ,reade's 8,cloister and the ,hearth10 to realize that fact4 ,for the dozenth time ,i was rereading 8,eothen0 the other day1 and came upon a curious passage4 ,speaking of ,smyrna1 ,kinglake says3 8,the number of murders committed during ,lent is greater1 ,i am told1 than at any other time of the year4 ,a man under the influence of a bean dietary 7for this is the principal food of the ,greeks during their fasts7 will be in an apt humour for enriching the shrine of his saint1 and passing a knife through his next-door neighbour40 ,que ,messieurs les vgteriens commencent6 ,what do they say to this8 ,do they feel especially bloodthirsty during ,lent1 or--being all-the-year-round vegetarians--do they lust after gore with any peculiar avidity8 ,it is curious to note that our favourite ,lenten fare1 salted cod and egg-sauce1 to wit1 is1 strictly speaking1 quite wrong4 ,eggs are not permissible food1 and the orthodox eschew them altogether during their jejunium4 ,in ,spain1 during the crusades and the war with the ,moors1 a practice arose of permitting1 in certain cases1 the substitution of a contribution to the holy war for the observance of the ,lenten abstinence1 and although the object has long since ceased1 the composition is still permitted under the same title of ,cruzada4 ,in the seventh century a ,council sitting at ,toledo declared those who ate meat during ,lent to be sinners unworthy to take part in the ,resurrection4 ,from that time until the eleventh century1 when a gradual reaction set in1 the laws of fasting and the punishments inflicted upon the transgressors became more and more strict2 interdict and excommunication were among the penalties4 ,by degrees these became so numerous and different in kind that they were divided into ,jejunium generale--a fast binding for all4 ,consuetudinarium--local fast4 ,penitentiale--atonement for all transgressions4 ,votivum--consequent upon a vow4 ,voluntare--for the better carrying out of an undertaking4 ,these again were kept as ,jejunium naturale--an entire abstinence from food or drink4 ,abstinentia--certain food only1 but several times a day4 ,jejunium cum abstinentia--the same food1 but only once a day4 ,jejunium sine abstinentia--all kinds of food1 but only once a day4 ,the prohibited food on partial fast days included1 during certain periods1 not only the flesh of quadrupeds1 fowl1 and fish1 but also the lacticinia1 which means all that comes from quadrupeds and birds1 such as eggs1 milk1 butter1 and the like4 ,there are many allusions in old plays to those folk who do not fast through ,lent4 ,for instance1 in ,skelton's 8,colin ,clout0 7#aejj7 is the following passage3-- ,men call you thereforr prophanes1 ,ye pieke no shrimps nor pranes2 ,salt fish1 stockfish1 nor herring1 ,it is not for your wearing4 ,nor in holy ,lenten season1 ,ye will neither ,beanes nor ,peasen1 ,but ye look to be let loose1 ,to a pigge or to a goose4 ,there is comparatively little strictness now as to ,lenten food1 but it is always an excuse for excellent maigre dining1 and the cook who cannot prepare a thoroughly good appetising and satisfying maigre menu is unworthy of his calling4 ,one ,good ,friday ,i was dining at a very excellent ,french provincial hotel1 the ,htel du ,chapeau-,rouge at ,dunkirk1 and the following most cleverly fashioned menu confronted me at dinner3-- ,,menu ,hutres4 ,potage ,longchamps4 ,bouches ,dunkerquoises4 ,barbue1 ,sauce d',isigny4 ,pommes ,nouvelles4 ,petit ,pois la ,franaise4 ,salade ,primeur4 ,saumon la ,russe4 ,ecrevisses de la ,meuse4 ,gteau ,pitheviers4 ,fruits4 ,here is another ,lenten dinner1 quite different in conception1 but equally good in execution4 ,it is a very artistic little production4 ,,menu ,caviar d',astrackan4 ,bisque d',ecrevisses4 ,truite braise au ,clicquot4 ,sarcelle ,rtie4 ,salade4 ,petits ,pois nouveaux la ,franaise4 ,coupe ,petit ,duc4 ,corbeille de ,friandises4 ,dessert4 ,a few years ago a noted ,french gourmet was taunted with the alleged fact that it was quite impossible to order a really expensive maigre dinner2 he retorted1 as any sane gourmet naturally would1 that it was the easiest thing in the world4 ,he was given carte blanche1 and the following was the result3-- ,caviar frais4 ,hutres 7,natives74 ufs ,grand-,duc4 ,bouches ,joinville4 ,truite saumone au ,chambertin4 ,sarcelles rties4 ,salade ,esprance4 ,aspic de homard en ,bellevue4 ,asperges sauce ,mousseline4 ,souffl au kirsch4 ,corbeilles de fruits4 ,caf4 ,,vins4 ,eau-de-vie russe4 ,chablis1 #ahij4 ,johannisberg1 #ahhf4 ,chteau-,loville ,poyferr1 #ahgh4 ,romane-,conti1 #ahfe4 ,champagne frapp ,bakal 7extra-dry71 '#hd4 ,chteau-,yquem1 #ahfi4 ,grande fine-champagne ,napolon1 #ahjj4 ,the dinner for four was exquisite1 and the wines extraordinary4 ,the total cost was just over twenty-five pounds4 ,in that delightful book1 8,mrs4 ,brookfield and ,her ,circle10 by ,charles and ,frances ,brookfield1 there is this postscript to a letter written by the husband to his wife3 8,on the carte of the ,carlton ,club the day before yesterday 7the ,general ,fast7 was to be seen these words3 #8,the ,committee1 taking into consideration that the observance of a ,general ,fast has been ordained1 have directed that the coffee-room dinner shall be confined strictly to--,two ,soups4 ,fish4 ,plain ,joints4 ,spring ,tarts4 ,omelettes4 ,cheese4'0 ,another story from the same book1 which although it has nothing whatever to do with ,lent1 has1 perhaps1 with food and feeding1 runs as follows3 8,the new bishop of ,new ,zealand1 in a farewell and pathetic interview with his mother1 after his appointment1 was thus addressed by her in such sequence as sobs and tears would permit3 #8,i suppose they will eat you1 my dear--,i try to think otherwise1 but ,i suppose they will4 ,well6--,we must leave it in the hands of ,providence4 ,but if they do--mind1 my dear1 and disagree with them4'0 ,that some at least of the less abstinent monks made very hearty meals and were quite valiant trenchermen1 whether it were fast day or no1 is a matter of history4 ,at a splendid dinner given by the ,legate of ,avignon to the ,prior of ,chartreux1 a superb fish1 cooked to perfection and likely to have tempted the ,pope himself had he been present1 was handed to the ,prior4 ,he helped himself and was on the eve of eating1 when one of the brothers said to him3 8,my father1 do not touch that1 it is not maigre4 ,i went into the kitchen1 and ,i saw things that would make you shudder2 the sauce that you fancy is made from carrots and onions is made from ham and rabbits40 8,my brother1 you talk too much and are too curious10 replied the father2 8the kitchen is not your place1 and curiosity is a grievous sin40 ,beckford of 8,vathek0 fame gives a glowing account of the monastery of ,alcobaa1 and particularly of the kitchen thereof3 8,through the centre of the immense and groined hall1 not less than sixty feet in diameter1 ran a brisk rivulet of the clearest water1 flowing through pierced wooden reservoirs1 containing every sort and size of the finest river fish4 ,on one side loads of game and venison were heaped up2 on the other vegetables and fruit in endless variety4 ,beyond a long line of stores1 extended a row of ovens1 and close to them hillocks of wheaten flour1 whiter than snow1 rocks of sugar1 jars of the purest oil1 and pastry in vast abundance1 which a numerous tribe of lay-brothers and their attendants were rolling out and puffing up into a hundred different shapes1 singing all the while as blithely as larks in a cornfield40 ,after describing the elaborate composition of the daily banquet of the monks1 the author describes 8a certain truffle cream which was so exquisite that the ,lord ,abbot piously gave thanks for it40 ,a famous ,london character in the time of 8,frazer's ,magazine0 was ,serjeant ,murphy1 ,m4,p4 for ,cork4 ,an acquaintance of ,murphy's was constantly addicted to boasting of his aristocratic friends4 ,at a dinner-party where there were several ,roman ,catholics present1 conversation centred round the subject of fasting1 when the serjeant's friend struck in3 8,it is very strange how little the highest ranks regard fast days4 ,i was dining at the ,duke of ,norfolk's on a fast day three weeks ago1 and there was not a bit of fish at dinner40 8,i suppose10 said ,murphy1 in the midst of the deep silence that followed1 8that they had eaten it all in the dining-room40 ,chaucer writes of a man who ,full many a patrich had he in mewe1 ,and many a breme and many a luce in stew4 ,the stew was1 of course1 the monkish fish-pond1 which has almost disappeared since the ,reformation4 ,the luce is the jack or pike of the fishermen1 and is often found as a pun upon the family name of ,lucy1 which bears the pike as a charge4 ,richard de ,lucie1 who defended the castle of ,falaise against ,geoffry of ,anjou1 was ,lord ,diss in ,norfolk2 he was also ,sheriff of ,essex in the reign of ,henry ,,ii1 and built the castle of ,ongar4 ,sir ,richard ,lucy1 ,lord ,chief ,justice of ,england1 founded ,lesnes ,priory1 near ,erith1 and dying in #aagi1 was buried within its walls4 ,an antiquary named ,weever1 who had seen his tomb in #afcj1 states that upon the belt of the figure of the knight the fleur-de-lis1 or fleur-de-luce1 the rebus or name device of the ,lucys1 was sculptured in many places4 ,the fleur-de-lis was here used in a doubly figurative sense for a pike or spear1 to the head of which it bears some resemblance4 ,this is more particularly shown in the ,cantelupe arms1 gules1 a fess vaire between three leopards' heads jessant fleur-de-lis4 ,the arms of ,lucy are also among the quarterings borne by the family of ,lowther1 the head of which is1 of course1 ,lord ,lonsdale4 ,certain fish1 evidently intended for pike or luces1 in the pavement of the ,chapter ,house at ,westminster may possibly allude to the early tradition that ,st4 ,peter's ,church was first built by ,king ,lucius4 ,the ged and the pike are synonymous in ,north ,britain1 whence the ,scots family of ,ged bear for arms1 azure1 three geds1 or pike1 hauriant argent2 ,sir ,walter ,scott alludes to this play upon the name in ,red ,gauntlet4 8,the heralds10 he says1 8who make graven images of fish1 fowls1 and beasts1 assigned the ged for their device and escutcheon1 and hewed it over their chimneys1 and placed above their tombs the fish called a jack1 pike1 or luce1 and in our tongue1 a ged40 ,of this family was ,william ,ged1 an ,edinburgh printer1 who employed a stereotyping process as early as #agbe4 ,the ,geddes1 a very ancient family of ,tweeddale1 bear for arms1 gules1 an escutcheon between three luces' heads couped argent4 ,much of the good purpose of a close adherence to strict ,lenten fare has no doubt been lost by our continued neglect of the manifold uses of herbs4 ,amid all the talking and writing about vegetarianism very little attention seems to have been paid to the undoubted importance of the herb garden4 ,our forefathers believed implicitly in the virtues of herbs1 and extolled them in prose and verse4 ,according to one of the old ,roxburghe ,ballads3-- ,here's pennyroyal and marygolds1 ,come1 buy my nettle-tops4 ,here's water-cresses and scurvy-grass1 ,come1 buy my sage of virtue1 ho6 ,come1 buy my wormwood and mugworts4 ,here's all fine herbs of every sort2 ,here's southernwood that's very good1 ,dandelion and horseleek4 ,here's dragon's-tongue and wood-sorrel1 ,with bear's-foot and horehound4 ,let none despise the merry1 merry cries ,of famous ,london ,town6 ,most of these formerly well-known herbs1 each having its own peculiar curative quality1 are nowadays practically unknown1 but a reference to old ,john ,parkinson1 or the herbals of ,gerard or ,turner1 or the 8,acetaria0 of ,john ,evelyn1 would readily show that they were good for the various ills to which flesh is heir4 ,the very earliest medicaments were largely composed of herbs1 and even to-day the learned prescription of a ,harley ,street two-guinea specialist usually contains at least one ingredient which1 under a more formal ,latin name1 is neither more nor less than a 8garden simple0 or herb4 ,the common marigold1 for instance1 which ,gerard calls 8the ,jackanapes-on-,horseback10 was at one time much used for soups or 8pottages40 ,in ,miss ,edgeworth's story of 8,simple ,susan0 she explains how the petals of marigolds were added1 as the last touch1 to the broth made for an invalid mother4 ,evelyn compares the common bugloss to the nepenthe of ,homer1 but adds that what we now call bugloss was not that of the ancients1 but rather borage1 8for the like virtue named corrago40 ,smallage was1 of course1 simply wild celery1 which ,parkinson says is 8somewhat like parsley1 but greater1 greener1 and more bitter40 ,sweet cicely1 or sweet chervil1 is a kind of myrrh--8it adds a marvellous good relish to a sallet10 and the roots may be preserved or candied4 ,the genial ,culpepper1 in his 8,english ,physician ,enlarged0 7#aefe71 has much to say as to the astrological virtues of the different herbs1 and although his ascription of plants to their respective planets must be taken cum grano salis1 yet he is wonderfully near the mark in many instances which he quotes as to the effect of the herb if taken as a medicine4 ,this1 for instance1 is what he has to say about balm3 8,it is a herb of ,jupiter and under ,cancer1 and strengthens nature much in all its actions4 ,it causeth the mind and heart to become merry and reviveth the heart1 especially of such who are overtaken in sleep1 and driveth away all troublesome cares and thoughts out of the mind arising from melancholy or black choler40 ,nowadays we certainly neglect herbs1 although here and there an old-fashioned gardener plants his herbs from year to year4 ,there are still quaint old herb shops in ,covent ,garden1 where the 8simples0 of our grandmothers may be bought2 and there are curious customs at the ,guildhall and the ,old ,bailey of the presentation of bunches of herbs to the presiding justices as a reminiscence of the time when their perfume was supposed to counteract the germs of plague4 ,it is easy to cultivate a herb garden1 and amid modern 8improvements0 of flowers of all sorts it imparts a delightful old-world fragrance to the completeness of the pleasaunce4 ,moreover1 herbs make the most exquisite addition to nearly every form of cookery4 ,reverting to ,lent and its customs1 it is notable1 according to old ,john ,selden's 8,table ,talk0 7#afhi71 that 8our meats and our sports1 much of them1 have relation to ,church works4 ,the coffin of our ,christmas pies in shape long1 is in imitation of the cratch2 our choosing kings and queens on ,twelfth-night hath reference to the three kings4 ,so1 likewise1 our eating of fritters1 whipping of tops1 roasting of herrings1 ,jack of ,lents1 etc4--they are all in imitation of ,church works1 emblems of martyrdom4 ,our tansies at ,easter have reference to the bitter herbs2 though at the same time1 it was always the fashion for a man to have a gammon of bacon to show himself to be no ,jew40 ,we have it 7on perhaps somewhat doubtful authority7 that the most ingenious method of fasting is that recorded in the 8,mappemonde ,papistique10 wherein it appears that a ,venetian saint had certain boxes made like mass books1 and these book-boxes were filled1 some with ,malmsey wine1 and some with the fleshiest parts of capons and partridges4 ,these were supposed to be books of devotion1 and the saint is said to have lived long and grown fat on them4 ,a peculiarly villainous form of torture was invented by ,galeazzo ,visconti 7#acee71 which was known as ,galeazzo's ,lent1 because it was guaranteed to prolong the life of the unfortunate victim for forty days4 ,this seems to have been one of the few traits of inherited family cruelty in a man who otherwise was a sort of ,mcenas of his time4 ,he was a friend and patron of ,petrarch1 founded1 under his direction1 the ,university of ,pavia1 and brought together a considerable library4 ,according to ,walsh1 it is not generally known that the use of flesh1 meat1 eggs1 and milk during ,lent was forbidden in ,england1 not only by ecclesiastical but also by statute law1 even into the time of ,william ,,iii4 ,any violation of the law was followed by dire penalties4 ,there is the case of the landlady of the ,rose ,tavern1 ,st4 ,catherine's ,tower1 ,london1 in whose house during the ,lent of #aefc was found a quantity of raw and cooked meat4 ,she and four other women who were proved to have partaken of the forbidden viands were put in the stocks all night4 ,in #aegj was passed a statute making the penalties for violating the ,lenten laws sixty shillings and three months imprisonment4 ,finally1 as an apposite curiosity1 ,i will quote a curious dispensation granted two hundred and seventy-six years ago and formally recorded in the parish register of ,wakefield4 8,to all people to whom these presents shall come1 ,james ,lister1 ,vicar of ,wakefield1 and preacher of ,god's word1 sendeth greeting3 ,whereas ,alice ,lister wife of ,richard ,lister ,clerke who now soiourneth with her sonne ,willm ,paulden of ,wakefield1 by reason of her old age many years state1 and long-contynued sickness is become so weake1 and her stomack so colde1 not able to digest colde meates and fish1 who by the counsell of ,physicions is advised to absteine from and to forbeare the eateng of all manner of fruits1 fish and milk meates3 ,know yee therefoor for the causes aforesaide and for the better strengthening recovery of her health1 ,i the saide ,james ,lister do hereby give grant libertie and licence to her the saide ,alice ,lister att her will and pleasure att all tymes1 as well during the tyme of ,lent1 as upon other fasting daies and fish daies 7exhibiting by the laws to eate flesh7 to dresse and eate such kind of fleshe as shal be best agreing to her stomach weake appetite4 ,in witnes hereof ,i the saide ,james ,lister have hereunto sett my hand the eight day of ffebuary in the sixt year of the ,reine of our ,soveraigne ,lord ,charles by the ,grace of ,god ,king of ,england ,scotland ffrance and ,ireland ,defender of the ,faith c and in the yeare of our ,lord god #afcj ,james ,lister40 ,,index ,a ,aberdour oysters1 #aff ,abstinence1 #bdg 8,academy0 menu1 #aci 8,accomplish'd ,housewife10 #hd 8,accomplish'd ,lady ,rich's ,closet10 #aji 8,acetaria10 #fd1 #beg ,acrostic dinner1 #ach ,acton1 ,eliza1 #aea 8,adam's ,luxury and ,eve's ,cookery10 #hd ,addison1 #ajf tius1 #agf ,agris of ,rhodes1 #aab 8,alarm to all ,persons10 #hd 8,alchemist1 ,the10 #ci 8,alice in ,wonderland0 menu1 #adb 8,all's ,well ,that ,ends ,well10 #hf 8,almanach des ,gourmands10 #dd1 #bbe ,america and snails1 #bjg ,american dinner1 #aag oysters1 #ahc ,amory1 ,blanche1 #bc ,angel pie1 #aea ,anthony1 ,saint1 #fc ,apprenticeship of cooks1 #bci 8,archidipno10 #ga 8,art of ,cookery made ,plain and ,easy10 #he 8,art of ,dining10 #hh ,artificial snails1 #bac ,arundel1 ,earl of1 #bjf1 #bji ,ashburn 7or ,ashburner71 ,mrs41 #he 8,atall1 ,dr410 #hc ,athanasius1 ,saint1 #fc ,athenus1 #ci1 #agh ,athenian waiters1 #bja ,atlantus1 #aab ,austen1 ,jane1 #bb1 #bg ,austrian snails1 #bae ,autun1 ,bishop of1 #bjf ,avignon1 ,legate of1 #beb ,ayen1 ,duc d'1 #bbe ,azma1 #bbg ,b ,baba1 #bbf ,babiroussa1 #bcc ,ball-supper menu1 #adg 8,ballade of ,simpson's10 #ec ,ballantyne1 ,james1 #aje ,ballotine de ,perdreau ,souvaroff1 #aeb ,banana menu1 #adb ,banks1 ,sir ,joseph1 #ga ,banville1 ,th4 de1 #db ,barbe de ,capucin1 #ajc ,barlow on hasty pudding1 #dc ,baskets1 ,luncheon1 #ii ,bavarian menu1 #aej 8,b4,c4 ,the ,first ,oyster10 #afh ,beans as incentive to murder1 #bde ,beaufremont1 ,prince de1 #bbe ,beaumont and ,fletcher1 #hg ,bchamel1 ,marquis de1 #bbc ,beckford1 #beb ,beef1 ,corned1 #cg ,beef ,steaks1 ,society of1 #eg ,bhague1 #ab1 #ac ,bell1 ,peter1 #cb ,benger1 #aef ,bennett1 ,mrs41 #bg ,branger1 #db ,berchoux1 ,j41 #df1 #dh ,beresford1 ,rev4 ,mr41 #hb ,berkeley ,hotel1 #be ,berri1 ,duchesse de1 #bbb ,bertrand1 #bbc ,besant1 ,sir ,walter1 #ajd ,bibliophile1 ,jacob le1 #bca ,bill of fare1 #aci ,bingley1 #bg ,birch of ,cornhill1 #ca ,black1 ,professor1 #bag ,blair1 ,mrs4 ,hy4 ,w41 #aah ,blake1 ,wm41 #ic ,blinis1 #aae1 #adi ,blue ,posts1 ,cork ,street1 #ca 8,book of ,menus10 #af 8,book without a ,name10 #c 8,book of the ,table10 #ad ,booth1 ,j4 ,l4 ,c41 #bjb ,borodino1 ,battle of1 #ij ,bortsch1 #bb1 #aae ,boswell1 #hb ,boudin de ,poulet la ,richelieu1 #bbe ,bouillabaisse1 #db ,boulanger1 #bcf 8,bourgeois ,gentilhomme10 #bcd ,bradyphagia1 #ij ,braithwaite1 #bci ,brallaghan1 #de ,briggs1 ,richard1 #abf ,brillat-,savarin1 #aa1 #bc1 #age1 #bbf ,bristol ,waters1 #dj 8,british ,birds10 #de1 #fj1 #gb ,british boy cooks1 #bci ,british ,waiters' ,association1 #bjj ,brookfield1 ,chas41 #ge1 #bea 8,brookfield1 ,mrs41 and ,her ,circle10 #bea ,browne1 ,sir ,thomas1 #fb ,browning1 #db ,burke1 ,edmund1 #g ,burns1 #db ,byron1 ,lord1 #fb1 #fh ,c ,cade1 ,jack1 #fc ,cadmus1 #ae ,caf de la ,france1 #bcb ,cailles la ,mirepoix1 #bbb 8,cakes and ,ale10 #aea ,canard la ,rouennaise1 #adf1 #adg ,capus1 ,alfred1 #adg ,caraffa1 ,cardinal1 #fh ,carme1 #e1 #ig1 #ace1 #bbg1 #bcd ,carlingford oysters1 #aff ,carlton ,club1 #bea ,hotel1 #bb1 #ic1 #ach1 #adi ,carr1 #hh ,carroll1 ,lewis1 #agj1 #ahi 8,causerie ,culinaire10 #bbh ,c4 ,c4 ,r41 #fa ,cecil1 ,hotel1 #bf ,cedd1 ,saint1 #bdc ,celsinius1 #bbd ,cervantes1 #bi ,champeaux' ,restaurant1 #acb ,chapelle1 ,vincent de la1 #bbe ,chaptal1 #gj ,chariades1 #aab ,charles ,v of ,spain1 #bjf ,chartreuse la ,cardinal1 #bbe ,chartreuse la ,mauconseil1 #bbc ,chartreux1 ,prior of1 #beb ,chateaubriand1 ,origin of1 #acb ,chatillon-,plessis1 #dg ,chaucer1 #fb ,cheese recipe1 #eb ,cheremetoff1 ,prince1 #ahg 8,cheshire ,cheese10 ,fleet ,street1 #ca1 #df ,chesterton1 ,g4 ,k41 #abi ,chicore de ,bruxelles1 #ajc ,chinese ,books on ,behaviour1 #aaj menu1 #aai restaurant1 #aah ,christmas cookery1 #abe dinner1 #abh menus1 #abg1 #abh ,cicero1 #agf ,clams1 #aag ,clark1 ,sir ,andrew1 #aeg ,cleopatra1 #fc 8,clinker1 ,humphry10 #f1 #dj ,close1 #adh ,clough1 ,arthur ,henry1 #dc ,cochin1 #di ,cogan1 #fg ,coigny1 ,duc de1 #bbe 8,cloister and the ,hearth10 #bde ,colchester epitaph1 #aff ,oyster ,feast1 #ahj ,coleridge1 ,s41 #db 8,colin ,clout10 #bdh ,collins1 ,mortimer1 #de1 #ei1 #gb ,commodus1 #bbd 8,compleat ,cook10 #hd ,consomm ,sarah ,bernhardt1 #bbg 8,cook ,book1 ,the ,poetical10 #dc 8,cookery1 ,art of10 #dd ,cookery and ,food ,association1 #ij ,cookery of snails1 #baa ,roman1 #dj 8,cook-maid's ,garland10 #ed 8,cook's ,director10 #hd ,cooper1 ,e4 ,h41 #bch ,cordon ,bleu1 #c ,corks1 #aic ,corned ,beef1 #cg ,corneille1 #ajh ,cornez le diner1 #cg ,cosmopolitan dining in ,london1 #aac1 #aag ,ctelettes de ,mouton la ,maintenon1 #bba ,coventry1 ,lady1 #ajd 8,coy ,cook ,maid1 ,the10 #ee ,crabbe1 #db 8,cranford10 #bh ,crtes de ,coq1 #ajb ,criterion ,restaurant1 #cd ,croustades la ,coquelin1 #bbg ,cruzada1 #bdf ,cuisinire ,potique1 la1 #db 8,culina ,famulatrix ,medicin10 #hh ,culpepper1 #beh 8,cupboard ,papers10 #af ,curry1 #abc ,d ,d',albignac1 #ga ,dallas1 ,e4 ,s41 #aa1 #ad ,dampfnudeln1 #aae ,dartmoor mutton1 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