,,the ,,cult ,,of ,,the ,,chafing ,,dish 8,what does cookery mean8 ,it means the knowledge of ,medea1 and of ,circe1 and of ,calypso1 and of ,helen1 and of ,rebekah1 and of the ,queen of ,sheba4 ,it means knowledge of all herbs1 and fruits1 and balms1 and spices1 and of all that is healing and sweet in groves1 and savoury in meat4 ,it means carefulness and inventiveness1 watchfulness1 willingness1 and readiness of appliances4 ,it means the economy of your ,great-grandmother1 and the ,science of modern chemistry1 and ,french art1 and ,arabian hospitality4 ,it means1 in fine1 that you are to see imperatively that every one has something nice to eat40 ,,ruskin ,,the,,cult ,,of,,the ,,chafing ,,dish ,,by ,,frank ,,schloesser ,,london ,,gay,,and,,bird #aije ,published ,may #aijd ,second ,edition ,march #aije ,to ,,the ,,only ,,woman ,,who ,,could ,,turn ,,me ,,from ,,bachelordom ,,contents ,,chap4 ,,page ,i4 ,the ,chafing ,dish #a ,,ii4 ,preliminaries #ai ,,iii4 ,soups #ch ,,iv4 ,fish #ed ,v4 ,flesh and ,fowl #gi ,,vi4 ,vegetables and ,salads #ajh ,,vii4 ,eggs and ,savouries #ach ,,viii4 ,sauces #aei ,,ix4 ,sweets and ,oddments #agg ,x4 ,amenities of the ,table #aib ,index #bjg ,illustration3 ,,the,,cult ,,of,,the ,,chafing ,,dish ,,chapter#a ,,the,,chafing,,dish 8,there does not at this blessed moment breathe on the ,earth's surface a human being that willna prefer eating and drinking to all ither pleasures o' body or soul40--,,the ,,ettrick ,,shepherd4 ,every bachelor has a wife of some sort4 ,mine is a ,chafing ,dish2 and ,i desire to sing her praises4 ,my better half--,i love to call her ,chaffinda1 and to dwell upon the doubled consonant--is a nickel-plated dish on a wrought-iron stand1 with a simple spirit-lamp wherewith to keep herself warm4 ,i bought her at ,harrod's ,stores for twelve shillings and ninepence--and she has sisters4 ,it has been borne in upon me that many quite nice folk may be glad to learn something of the possibilities of ,chaffinda4 ,whether married or single1 there are moments in the life of nearly every man and woman when the need of a quick1 hot1 and light little meal is worth much fine gold4 ,to such ,i would politely address myself4 ,the ordinary domestic cook is a tireless enemy of the ,chafing ,dish4 ,she calls it 8fiddle-faddle40 ,maybe4 ,but inasmuch as it is clean1 economical1 speedy and rather simple1 it would naturally not appeal to her peculiar sense of the culinary art4 ,to bachelors1 male and female1 in chambers1 lodgings1 diggings1 and the like1 in fact to all who 8batch02 to young couples with a taste for theatres1 concerts1 and homely late suppers2 to yachtsmen1 shooting-parties1 and picnickers2 to inventive artists who yearn for fame in the evolution of a new entre2 to invalids1 night workers1 actors and stockbrokers1 the ,chafing ,dish is a welcome friend and companion4 ,it has its limitations1 of course1 but they are few and immaterial1 and its obvious advantages and conveniences far outweigh its trivial drawbacks4 ,at the same time it must be remembered that it is a serious cooking apparatus1 and by no means a mere toy4 ,it is quite erroneous to imagine that the ,chafing ,dish is an ,american invention4 ,nothing of the sort4 ,the earliest trace of it is more than a quarter of a thousand years old4 8,le ,cuisinier ,franais10 by ,sieur ,franois ,pierre de la ,varenne1 ,escuyer de ,cuisine de ,monsieur le ,marquis d',uxelles1 published in ,paris in #afeb1 contains a recipe for ,champignons l',olivier1 in which the use of a ,rchaut is recommended4 ,a translation of this work1 termed 8,the ,french ,cook10 was published in ,london in #afec1 and the selfsame recipe of ,mushrooms after the ,oliver contains the injunction to use a ,chafing ,dish2 moreover1 the frontispiece1 a charmingly executed drawing1 shows a man-cook in his kitchen1 surrounded by the implements of his art2 and on the table a ,chafing ,dish1 much akin to our latter-day variety1 is burning merrily4 ,this was in #afec4 ,the ,mayflower sailed in #afbj4 ,so much for the antiquity of the ,chafing ,dish4 ,at the same time our mitigated thanks are due to ,america for its comparatively recent reintroduction1 for until quite lately1 in ,great ,britain1 its use was practically limited to the cooking of cheese on the table4 ,the ,chafing ,dish is much esteemed across the ,atlantic1 although one is forced to admit that it is sometimes put to base uses in the concoction of unholy stews1 which have not the natural flavour of fish1 flesh or fowl1 or even good red herring4 ,still1 if the ,americans are vague in their ,french nomenclature1 unorthodox in their sauces1 eclectic in their flavourings1 and over-lavish in their condiments1 yet they have at any rate brought parlour cooking to a point where it may gracefully be accepted as an added pleasure to life4 ,when two or three are gathered together1 and one mentions the magic word 8,chafing ,dish10 the second invariably chimes in with 8,welsh ,rabbit40 ,this is an error of taste1 but excusable in the circumstances4 ,chafing ,dishes were not created for the exclusive canonisation of ,welsh ,rabbits1 although a deft hand may occasionally play with one in a lightsome mood4 ,there are other and better uses4 ,all the same1 a fragrant and delicate ,rabbit is not to be despised1 although it must not be made conceited by too great an elevation into the realms of high cookery4 ,my ,chaffinda has at least seventeen hundred and four different charms1 therein somewhat exceeding the average number appertaining to her sex1 but it would require volumes to mention them separately1 and it must suffice to indicate roughly a few of the more prominent4 ,i suppose that every nation has the cooks that it deserves1 and1 if this be accepted as an axiom1 the general degeneration of the ,plain ,cook of the middle classes amply accounts for the growing cult of the ,chafing ,dish4 ,the ,british school of cookery1 in its mediocre form1 is monotony exemplified4 ,too many broths spoil the cook2 and hence we derive our dull sameness of roast and boiled4 ,sweet are the juices of diversity1 and whilst there is no reason for the ,chafer to elaborate a sauce of thirteen ingredients1 the cunning manipulation of three or four common articles of the domestic store-cupboard will often give 7intentionally or otherwise7 surprising results4 ,this ,i shall hope to explain more fully later on4 ,imagination and a due sense of proportion are as necessary in cooking as in any other art--more so than in some1 for ,impressionism in the kitchen simply means indigestion4 ,digestion is the business of the human interior1 indigestion that of the doctor4 ,it is so easy to cook indigestible things that a savoury cunningly concocted of ,bismuth and ,pepsine would seem an almost necessary adjunct to the menu 7or ,carte ,dinatoire1 as the ,french ,revolutionists called it7 of the budding ,chafist4 ,but the demon of indigestion may easily be exorcised with a little care and thought4 ,three great apothegms should be borne in mind4 ,imprimis3 ,never worry your food2 let it cook out its own salvation4 ,item3 ,use as few highly spiced condiments as possible2 and1 lastly1 keep to natural flavours1 juices1 and sauces4 ,much modern depravity1 for instance1 ,i attribute to the unholy cult of ,mayonnaise 7or ,mahonnaise1 or ,bayonnaise1 or ,magnonaise1 according to different culinary authorities74 ,at its best it is simply a saucy disguise to an innocent salmon or martial lobster1 reminding the clean-palated of an old actor painted up to look young4 ,i once knew a man who proposed to a girl at a dance-supper simply because he could not think of anything else to say1 and suddenly discovered that they both hated ,mayonnaise4 ,i have no reason to suppose that they are unhappy4 ,at the same time ,i am in no wise against trying new dishes1 new combinations of subtle flavours1 if they do not obliterate the true taste of the basis4 ,an experimental evening with ,chaffinda1 when one is not sure how things are going to turn out1 is1 ,i find1 most exhilarating1 and a sure cure for the blues4 ,but ,i am fain to admit that on such occasions ,i always provide a chunk of ,benoist pressed beef as a stand-by in case of emergency4 ,there is nothing final about the ,chafing ,dish4 ,another point about having a wife in the shape of a ,chafing ,dish is somewhat delicate to explain4 ,coarsely indicated1 it amounts to this4 ,continuous intercourse with such a delicious1 handy and resourceful helpmeet tends to a certain politeness in little things1 a dainty courtesy which could not be engendered by the constant companionship of a common kitchen-range4 ,chafing-,dish cookery bears the same relation to middle-class kitchen cookery that the delightful art of fencing does to that of the broadsword4 ,both are useful1 but there is a world of subtle differentiation between the two4 ,the average rough and tumble of the domestic saucepan contrasts with the deft manipulation of the miniature battery of tiny pans4 ,and politeness always pays2 moreover1 it is vastly becoming4 ,i gave a little tea-party recently to some dear children4 ,some of them were twins4 ,edith1 a female twin of nine1 asked me to help her to some more blackberry jam4 8,certainly1 ,edith10 ,i said2 8but why don't you help yourself80 ,the maid was even politer than she was hungry3 8,because ,i was afraid ,i should not take enough40 ,and thus we learn how things work among manikinkind4 ,there are some who delight in the flavour of onions4 ,i do myself--but then ,i am a bachelor4 ,politeness and onions form one of life's most persistent inconsistencies4 ,his ,most ,gracious ,majesty ,king ,george ,,iv41 it is recorded1 attempted to kiss a royal housemaid1 who said3 8,sir1 your language both shocks and appals me2 besides which1 your breath smells of onions60 ,and again1 in a ,cambridge dining-room1 a framed notice on the wall stated3 8,gentlemen partial to spring onions are requested to use the table under the far window40 ,nevertheless1 the benefits of onions toward the human race are probably not less than those attendant on the discovery of steam4 ,it is a vegetable whose manifold properties and delights have never been properly sung4 ,as a gentle stimulant1 a mild soporific1 a democratic leveller of exaggeration in flavour1 a common bond between prince and peasant1 it is a standing protest of ,nature against ,art4 ,on my wall1 as ,i write1 hangs a delightful oil study of a clump of onions in flower1 which the deft artist aptly dubs ,le ,fond de la ,cuisine4 ,dr4 ,william ,king said that 8,onions can make even heirs or widows weep02 and the 8,philosopher's ,banquet10 written in #afcc1 seems to meet the case excellently3 8,if ,leekes you like1 but do their smelle disleeke1 ,eat ,onyons1 and you shall not smelle the leeke2 ,if you of ,onyons would the scente expelle1 ,eat ,garlicke1 that shall drowne the ,onyon's ,smelle40 ,i would not go quite as far as the poet1 but ,i confess to a weakness for chives4 ,a judicious touch to many salads and made dishes is very desirable4 ,chives are to onions as the sucking-pig is to pork1 a baby scent1 a fairy titillation1 an echo of the great ,might ,be4 ,charles ,lamb had a friend who said that a man cannot have a pure mind who refuses apple dumplings4 ,in the plural1 mind you1 not the singular4 ,appetites have vastly changed since then1 probably not for the better1 but the test even to-day seems adequate and noteworthy4 ,i do not propose to recommend either onions or apple dumplings as ,chafing-,dish experiments1 but merely adduce them as worthy examples of the toothsomeness of simplicity4 ,the late lamented ,joseph1 of the ,savoy and elsewhere1 once said in his wisdom1 8,make the good things as plain as possible4 ,god gave a special flavour to everything4 ,respect it4 ,do not destroy it by messing40 ,these are winged words1 and should be inscribed 7in sugar icing7 above the hearthstone of every artist in pots and pans4 ,the ,chafing ,dish is a veritable ,mephistopheles in the way of temptation4 ,it is so alluringly easy to add just a taste of this or that1 a few drops of sauce1 a sprinkling of herbs1 a suggestion of something else4 ,but beware and perpend6 ,do not permit your culinary perspective to become too ,japanesque in the matter of foreground4 ,remember your chiaroscuro1 take care of the middle distance1 and let the background assert its importance in the whole composition4 8,i can resist anything--except temptation0 is the cry of the hopelessly weak in culinary morality4 ,lest ,i should be hereafter accused of contradicting my own most cherished beliefs1 let me hasten here and now to assert that condiments1 esoteric and otherwise1 were undoubtedly made to be used as well as to be sold2 and ,i am no enemy of bolstering up the weak and assimilative character of--say--veal1 8the chameleon of the kitchen10 with something stronger1 and1 generally speaking1 of making discreet use of suave subtleties to give completeness to the picture4 ,but the watchword must always be ,discretion6 ,to those who muddle their flavours ,i would commend the words of the ,archbishop in ,gil ,blas3 8,my son1 ,i wish you all manner of prosperity--and a little more taste60 ,sidney ,smith thought ,heaven must be a place where you ate pt de foies gras to the sound of trumpets4 ,there is a late ,georgian ingenuousness about this which is refreshing4 ,the liver of the murdered goose and the scarlet sound of brass6 ,nowadays a ,queen's ,hall gourmet would compare the celestial regions to a continuous feast of ,cailles de ,vigne braises la ,parisienne to the accompaniment of ,tschaikowsky's 8,casse ,noisette0 suite1 which is more complicated1 but perchance not less indigestible4 ,the typical crude ,british cookery1 if carelessly performed1 is a constant menace to its disciples4 ,if well cooked there is nothing more wholesome1 save perhaps the ,french cuisine bourgeoise1 but--8much virtue in your ,if40 ,as a matter of fact1 in nine households out of ten1 in the middle-middle classes 7and the upper too7 the fare is well-intentioned in design1 but deadly in execution1 with a total absence of care and taste4 ,there is a curious old book1 probably out of print nowadays1 which deals tenderly1 if severely1 with the shortcomings of ,british cookery4 ,it was published in #ahec1 and is called 8,memoirs of a ,stomach1 written by ,himself40 ,a typical passage runs3 8,the ,english system of cookery it would be impertinent of me to describe2 but still1 when ,i think of that huge round of parboiled ox-flesh1 with sodden dumplings floating in a saline1 greasy mixture1 surrounded by carrots1 looking red with disgust1 and turnips pale with dismay1 ,i cannot help a sort of inward shudder1 and making comparisons unfavourable to ,english gastronomy40 ,this is fair comment1 and brings me back to the advantages of the ,chafing ,dish4 ,an old ,german fairy tale1 ,i think one of ,grimm's1 says3 8,nothing tastes so nice as what one eats oneself10 and it is certain that if one cooks so as entirely to satisfy oneself 7always supposing oneself to be a person of average good taste71 then one's guests will be equally satisfied--if not more so4 ,in dealing with ,chaffinda we may1 after a minimum of practice1 be almost certain of results4 ,if one is naturally clean1 neat and dainty in one's tastes1 then one's cooking should display the same characteristics4 ,one's individuality shines forth in the ,chafing ,dish and is reflected in one's sauces4 ,chaffinda conveys a great moral lesson1 and1 as a teacher1 should not lack in honour and reverence4 ,the late ,prince ,consort1 being on a visit1 wrote to a friend3 8,things always taste so much better in small houses02 if one substitutes small dishes for small houses the ,prince predicted the ,chafing ,dish4 ,the kitchen is the country in which there are always discoveries to be made1 and with ,chaffinda on a neat white tablecloth before one1 half a dozen little dishes with food in various stages of preparation1 a few select condiments1 an assortment of wooden spoons and like utensils--and an inventive brain--there are absolutely no limits to one's discoveries4 ,one is bound by no rule1 no law1 no formula1 save those of ordinary common sense1 and though it might be too much to expect to rediscover the lost ,javanese recipe for cooking kingfishers' or halcyons' nests1 the old manner of treating a ,hocco1 or the true inwardness of 8the dish called ,maupygernon02 yet there are illimitable possibilities which act as incentives to the enterprising4 ,there is a ,chinese proverb to the effect that most men dig their graves with their teeth1 meaning thereby that we all eat too much4 ,this is awfully true and sad and undeniable1 and avoidable4 ,the late ,lord ,playfair asserted that the actual requirements of a healthy man for a seven-day week were three pounds of meat1 one pound of fat1 two loaves of bread1 one ounce of salt1 and five pints of milk4 ,what a contrast to the chop-eating1 joint-chewing1 plethoric individual who averages five meals a day1 and does justice to them all6 ,sir ,henry ,thompson says3 8,the doctors all tell us we eat too fast1 and too often1 and too much1 and too early1 and too late2 but no one of them ever says that we eat too little40 ,the proper appreciation of ,chaffinda may ameliorate this1 for in using her one speedily becomes convinced of the beauty of small portions1 an appetite kept well in hand1 and the manifold advantages of moderation4 ,it is easy to feed1 but nice eating is an art4 ,bishop ,wilberforce knew a greedy clergyman who1 when asked to say grace before dinner1 was wont to look whether there were champagne glasses on the table4 ,if there were1 he began3 8,bountiful ,jehovah02 but if he only espied claret glasses he contented himself with3 8,we are not worthy of the least of ,thy mercies40 ,of course growing children and quite young grown-up folks require proportionately more food than real adults1 for they have not only to maintain but to build up their bodies4 ,but to such the ,chafing ,dish will not appeal primarily1 if at all1 and they may even be found impertinent enough to look upon it as a culinary joke1 which it is not4 ,chaffinda hates gluttons1 but takes pleasure in ministering to the modest wants of the discerning acolyte1 fostering his incipient talent1 urging him to higher flights1 and tempting him to delicate fantasies4 8,do have some more2 it isn't very good1 but there's lots of it40 ,so said a friend of mine to his guests about his half-crown port4 ,this is the sentiment of the man who knows not the ,chafing ,dish4 8,lots of it0 is the worst kind of hospitality1 and suggests the quantity1 not quality1 of the cheap-jack kerbstone butcher4 ,little and good1 and enough to go round1 is the motto of the tactful house-husband4 ,a ,french cook once said that it was only unlucky to sit down thirteen at table if the food were but sufficient for twelve4 ,there is such a deal of fine confused feeding about the ordinary meals of even a simply conducted country house that imagination boggles at the thought of the elaboration of the daily menus4 ,with four1 or possibly five1 repasts a day1 few of them chaste1 most of them complicated1 a careful observer will note that the cook has been listening to the pipings of the ,great ,god ,sauce1 and covers natural flavours with misnamed concoctions which do nothing but obliterate nature and vex the palate4 ,there are some few houses1 great and small1 town and country1 where the elemental decencies of the kitchen are manfully preserved1 where wholesome mutton does not masquerade as ,quartier d',agneau la ,misricorde1 and the toothsome lobster is not ,americanised out of all knowing4 ,to such establishments1 all honour and glory4 ,but to those whose means or opportunities do not permit of a carefully trained cook1 a home-made artist1 ,i would in all diffidence recommend the cult of the ,chafing ,dish1 whose practical use ,i now propose to discuss4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,ii ,,preliminaries 8,tout se fait en dinant dans le sicle o nous sommes1 ,et c'est par les diners qu'on gouverne les hommes40--,,ch4 ,,de ,,monselet4 ,chaffinda's cooking battery is small1 but select4 ,the ,chafing ,dish proper comprises the stand and lamp1 and the dish1 called the 8,blazer10 which has an ebony handle2 and there is an ingenious spirit diminisher which enables one to reduce the flame to a minimum1 just enough to keep the flame simmering1 or to put it out altogether4 ,a second1 or hot water pan1 belongs to the outfit1 and an asbestos toast-making tray may be bought for a trifle4 ,in addition1 a couple of green or brown dishes of ,french fireproof china1 an egg-poacher1 a marmite1 and perhaps a casserole1 all of which are best from ,bonnet in ,church ,street1 ,soho1 will come in very usefully4 ,to these may be added the usual complement of plates and dishes and several wooden spoons of different sizes2 a fish-lifter is also desirable1 so is a strainer1 and a pair of graters come in very handily4 ,this practically completes the gear of the budding ,chafist1 though additional items may be added from time to time as occasion demands4 ,the makers of the ,chafing ,dish sell a useful methylated spirit can1 with a curved spout to fill up the asbestos wick4 ,it will be found that a good filling will burn for thirty to forty minutes1 which is ample for all ordinary purposes4 ,much of course depends on the quality of the spirit used1 and1 further1 the wick will only become thoroughly saturated after half a dozen usings1 and will subsequently require rather less spirit4 ,i have found that water boils in the 8,blazer10 or handled ,chafing ,dish1 in about ten minutes1 and instructions on bottled or preserved food1 soups and the like1 must be slightly discounted4 ,thus if one is told to boil for twenty minutes1 it will be found that fifteen minutes in the ,chafing ,dish will be ample in nearly all cases4 ,as this is mainly a true story of my own personal adventures among the pots and pans1 ,i can hardly do better than describe the first dish ,i tried my 'prentice hand upon1 with the devout wish that all neophytes may be as successful therewith as ,i was4 ,beef ,strips4 ,the experiment1 the preliminary exercise1 if ,i may so term it1 has no name1 although it savours somewhat of the ,resurrection ,pie1 unbeloved of schoolboys4 ,let us call it ,beef ,strips4 ,cut three thick slices from a rather well-cooked cold sirloin of beef1 cut these again into strips a quarter of an inch wide and about three inches long4 ,take care that they are very lean4 ,chop up half a dozen cold boiled potatoes 7not of the floury kind7 into dice4 ,put the beef and the potatoes into the ,chafing ,dish4 ,light the lamp and see that the heat is steady1 but not too strong4 ,add at once a good-sized walnut of butter1 a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce1 salt and pepper4 ,for at least ten minutes turn over the mixture continually with a wooden spoon until it is thoroughly heated4 ,turn it out on to a hot dish1 and garnish with half a dozen tiny triangles of toast4 ,this is a simple luncheon or supper dish which takes little time1 and--to my taste at least--is appetising and satisfying4 ,like all ,chafing-,dish preparations1 it can be cooked on the table1 with no more protection than a tray under the wrought-iron stand1 and a square of coloured tablecloth upon your white one to receive possible splashes or drops4 ,jellied ,ham4 ,now for exercise number two1 which ,i have christened ,jellied ,ham1 and commend as a dish very unlikely to go wrong in the manipulation4 ,get your flame steady and true1 and put a small walnut of butter in the dish4 ,when it is fluid1 add a good dessert-spoonful of red currant jelly1 a liqueur glass of sherry1 and three drops of ,tabasco sauce4 ,drop into this simmering mixture a few slices of cold boiled ham cut thin and lean1 and let it slowly cook for six to eight minutes4 ,if you wish to be extravagant1 then instead of the sherry use a full wine-glassful of champagne4 ,it is by no means necessary to eat this with vegetables1 but if you insist on the conjunction1 ,i would recommend a pure of spinach1 directions for which appear hereafter4 ,this ,jellied ,ham is an agreeable concoction1 which ,i find peculiarly soothing as a light supper after having seen an actor-manager playing ,shakespeare4 ,this is1 however1 after all only a matter of taste4 ,it has always seemed to me that different forms of the drama require1 nay demand1 different dinners and suppers1 according to the disposition in which one approaches them4 ,for instance1 before an ,adelphi melodrama1 turtle soup 7mock if necessary71 turbot and rump steaks are indicated1 whereas a musical comedy calls for an ,east ,room menu1 and an ,ibsen or ,g4 ,b4 ,shaw play for an ,a4,b4,c4 shop or a vegetarian restaurant respectively4 ,but ,i only hint at the broad outline of my idea1 which is capable of extension to an indefinite limit4 ,vegetarian meals do not appeal to me4 ,there is a sense of sudden and temporary repletion followed shortly afterwards by an aching void1 which can only be assuaged by a period of comparatively gross feeding4 ,besides1 judging from the appearance of my vegetarian friends 7in whom maybe ,i am unfortunate7 they often seem so much to resemble some of the foods they eat as to render themselves liable to be dubbed cannibals4 ,but this is probably mere prejudice4 ,minced ,chicken or ,game4 ,to resume the cult of ,chaffinda4 ,here is another dish which ,i recommend to the beginner4 ,it is a simple mince4 ,take any remains of chicken or game1 pheasant for choice1 and mince it 7or have it minced7 small1 but not too small4 ,never use a mincing machine4 ,put the mince aside1 and mix in the ,chafing ,dish the following sauce3 a full walnut of butter1 a tablespoon of flour1 and a pinch of salt and pepper2 add gradually about a tumblerful of milk4 ,keep continually stirring this and cook it well for five minutes1 adding three drops of ,tabasco sauce and half a tablespoon of ,worcester sauce1 also a squeeze of a lemon4 ,when it is thoroughly amalgamated throw in the mince and let it get hot without burning4 ,serve it with toast or very crisp biscuits4 ,the only objection ,i know to this mince is that all cold birds1 especially cold pheasant1 are so excellent that it seems almost superfluous to hot them up4 ,but there are occasions when the gamey fumes from ,chaffinda are very alluring1 and1 after all1 it is poor work eating cold cates at midnight1 however tempting they might be at breakfast4 ,our forebears were unanimous in their praise of the lordly long-tail4 ,in a letter from ,sidney ,smith to 8,ingoldsby0 ,barham1 the worthy cleric says3 8,many thanks1 my dear ,sir1 for your kind present of game4 ,if there is a pure and elevated pleasure in this world1 it is that of roast pheasant and bread sauce2 barndoor fowls for ,dissenters1 but for the ,real ,churchman1 the ,thirty-,nine times articled clerk1 the pheasant6 the pheasant60 ,toast4 ,it should perhaps be mentioned that the making of toast on the ,chafing ,dish is the easiest of functions4 ,the asbestos tray1 already referred to1 is placed over the flame1 and on the metal side the bread in rounds1 triangles1 or sippets2 a few minutes serve to toast the one side adequately1 and on being turned over it can easily be browned through4 ,mrs4 ,beeton is loquacious on the art of toast-making1 and lays down divers rules1 but she knew not ,chaffinda4 ,a modern essayist who discourses learnedly and most sensibly on toast1 makes a remark in his chapter on breakfasts1 which although not entirely germane to my subject1 is so true and1 to my thinking1 so characteristic1 that ,i cannot refrain from quoting it4 ,he is referring to marmalade4 8,the attitude of women to marmalade10 he says1 8has never been quite sound4 ,true1 they make it excellently1 but afterwards their association with it is one lamentable retrogression4 ,they spread it over pastry2 they do not particularly desire it at breakfast2 and 7worst7 they decant it into glass dishes and fancy jars40 ,how true1 how profound1 how typical6 ,but this is wandering from the point1 which is cookery1 not casuistry4 ,women are never out of place in connection with the good things of the table1 although they do not often aspire to the omni-usefulness of the well-meaning1 if ill-educated1 lady who applied for the position of nurse to one of the field hospitals during the ,boer war1 and mentioned as her crowning qualification that1 8like ,csar's wife1 ,i am all things to all men40 ,mutton ,cutlets4 ,after this little digression it will be well to turn to more serious things--cutlets1 for instance4 ,obtain from the butcher a couple of well-trimmed mutton cutlets1 and from the greengrocer sufficient green peas that1 when shelled1 you will have a breakfast-cupful4 ,melt a walnut of butter in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,into the melted butter drop a tablespoonful of flour and a sprinkling of chopped chives4 ,a teaspoonful of ,worcester sauce and three drops of ,tabasco1 together with salt at discretion1 will suffice for flavouring1 and care must be taken that the mixture does not boil4 ,put in the cutlets1 and when they begin to turn brownish add the peas1 and half a cupful of milk4 ,about fifteen minutes should cook the meat through if your spirit flame be strong1 otherwise it may take somewhat longer4 ,a very good substitute for ,worcester sauce1 in this connection1 is ,sauce ,robert1 which it is unnecessary to manufacture1 as it can be bought ready made1 and well made too1 of the ,escoffier brand4 ,with certain meats it is an excellent condiment4 ,by the way1 in some very old cookery books ,sauce ,robert was termed ,roe-,boat sauce1 an extraordinary orthographic muddle4 ,an omelette was likewise known as a 8,hamlet40 ,this suggests the somewhat too sophisticated schoolboy's description of ,esau as 8a hairy1 humpbacked man1 who wrote a book of fables and sold the copyright for a bottle of potash40 ,it may be deemed superfluous1 and in that case ,i apologise beforehand1 to insist on the most scrupulous cleanliness in dealing with the ,chafing ,dish and its adjuncts4 ,not only should the dish itself be kept spotless and thoroughly scoured1 but the stand1 the lamp1 the implements1 and the glass and china should be immaculate4 ,servants are easily persuaded to look after the cleaning process1 and do it with a certain amount of care1 but it can do no harm to understudy their duties and add an extra polish all round oneself4 ,it gives one1 too1 a personal interest in the result1 otherwise lacking4 ,i recommend the use of at least three dishcloths1 which should be washed regularly and used discreetly4 ,the ,chafist who neglects his apparatus is unworthy of the high mission with which he is charged1 and deserves the appellation of the younger son of ,archidamus ,,iii41 ,king of ,sparta4 ,cleanliness is next to all manner of things in this dusty world of ours1 and absolutely nothing conduces more to the enjoyment of a mealet that one has cooked oneself than the knowledge that everything is spick and span1 and that one has contributed oneself thereto by a little extra care and forethought4 ,a word of warning here4 ,never use 8kitchen butter10 or 8kitchen sherry10 or 8kitchen eggs10 or 8kitchen0 anything else2 use the very best you can afford4 ,an armoury of brooms1 brushes1 scrubbers1 soap and soda is in no way necessary4 ,a couple of polishing cloths and a little1 a very little1 of one of the many patent cleaners is all that is required4 ,a clear conscience and plenty of elbow-grease does the rest4 ,the ,british equivalent of the continental charcutier is of inestimable service to the ,chafist4 ,at his more or less appetising emporium1 small quantities of edibles can be purchased which are excellently well adapted for the cult of ,chaffinda1 especially if one be inclined towards the recooking of cold meats1 instead of the treatment of them in a raw state4 ,both have their advantages--and their drawbacks4 ,it is a general1 but totally inaccurate1 belief that meat once cooked needs only to be hotted up again4 ,nothing could be more fatal to its flavour and nutriment4 ,a certain amount of the good juices of the meat must inevitably have been lost during the first process1 and therefore great care must be taken in the second operation to tempt forth1 and1 in some cases1 to restore the natural flavour4 ,cold cooked meat needs long and gentle cooking1 a strong clear flame1 without sudden differences in temperature1 and it may be taken as a general rule that cold meat needs practically as long to cook as raw meat4 ,browned ,tongue4 ,for example1 take half a dozen slices of cooked tongue1 spread on each of them a modicum of made mustard1 and let each slice repose for about two minutes in a little bath of salad oil 7about enough to cover the bottom of a soup plate74 ,put the slices one on top of another until they make a compact little heap4 ,put the heap of tongue between two plates1 so as to expel the superfluous oil4 ,let it remain thus for half an hour4 ,then put a nutmeg of butter in the blazer1 dismember the heap of tongue1 and put the slices into the frizzling butter and turn them until they are brown4 ,a little sauce1 ,worcester1 ,robert1 or ,piquant1 may be added to suit individual taste4 ,serve very hot1 with sippets of toast4 ,i have ventured to christen this dish ,browned ,tongue1 which is simple and descriptive1 but every ,chafist is entitled to call it what he likes4 ,there is little1 if any1 copyright in ,chafing-,dish titles4 ,alexandre ,dumas1 author and cook1 protests against the mishandling of names3 8,les fantaisies de saucer1 de mettre sur le gril1 et de faire rtir nos grands hommes40 ,personally ,i object to cooking simple fare and then dubbing it la ,quelque chose4 ,outside the few score well-known1 and1 so to say1 classic titles of more or less elaborate dishes1 which are practically standardised1 there seems to me to be no reason to invent riddles in nomenclature when the 8short title10 as they say in ,parliamentary ,bills1 is amply descriptive4 ,it has been my ill-fortune to be introduced1 at an otherwise harmless suburban dinner1 to a catastrophe of cutlets1 garnished with tinned vegetables1 and to be gravely informed1 on an ill-spelt menu1 that it was 8,cutelletes d',agneau la ,jardinnier10 which would be ludicrous1 were it not sad4 ,then how often does the kind hostess1 without a punitive thought in her composition1 write down ,soufflet when she means ,souffl8 ,but mistakes are easily made1 as witness that popular sign of a ,french cabaret1 particularly in the provinces1 ,au ,lion d',or4 ,if you look carefully at the signboard1 you will find a man asleep1 the punning name of the hotel implying ,au lit on dort4 ,but the whole question of ,menus 7,bills of ,fare1 if you please71 and their mistranslation1 is too vast to enter upon here1 alluring though the subject may be4 ,the language of the restaurant cook1 save in especial instances1 is as bad1 although in a quite different sense1 as that of the ,whitechapel ,hooligan4 ,at the same time1 it is absurd to insist upon the literal translation of the untranslatable4 8,out of works0 for 8,hors d'uvres02 8,soup at the good woman0 for 8,potage la bonne femme02 8,smile of a calf at the banker's wife0 for 8,ris de veau la financire02 and1 lastly1 8,anchovies on the sofa0 for 8,anchois sur canap10 are all well enough in their way1 but hardly an example to be followed1 although they make 8very pretty patriotic eating40 ,it would be ridiculous to run away with the idea that because certain folk misuse the language1 ,french should be henceforward taboo at our dinner-tables4 ,such a notion is ignorant and impossible4 ,but the ,gallic tongue should be used with discretion and knowledge1 and if the enterprising ,chafist invent a new dish of eggs1 there is no law to forbid his naming it ufs la ,temple du ,milieu4 ,it would only show the quality of his erudition and his taste4 ,there seems no particular reason why we should not replace ,rti by ,roast1 ,entre by ,remove1 and ,entremet by ,sweet--except that it is not done2 it is an affectation of humbug1 of course1 but the greatest humbug of all humbugs is the pretending to despise humbug4 ,alderman's ,walk4 ,on revient toujours son premier mouton--that is to say1 let us get back to ,chaffinda4 ,the next dish on the experimental programme is 8,the ,alderman's ,walk10 a very old ,english delicacy1 the most exquisite portion of the most exquisite joint in ,cookerydom1 and so called because1 at ,city dinners of our grandfathers' times1 it is alleged to have been reserved for the ,aldermen4 ,it is none other than the first1 longest and juiciest longitudinal slice1 next to the bone1 of a succulent saddle of mutton1 ,southdown for choice1 and four years old at that1 though this age is rare4 ,remove this slice tenderly and with due reverence from the hot joint1 lay it aside on a slice of bread1 its own length1 and let it get cold1 thoroughly cold4 ,then prepare in the ,chafing ,dish a sauce composed of a walnut of butter1 a teaspoon of ,worcester1 three drops of ,tabasco1 three chopped chives1 and an eggspoon of made mustard4 ,stir these ingredients until the amalgamation is smooth and complete4 ,then take the bread1 which should have absorbed a good deal of the juice from under the ,alderman's ,walk1 cut it into strips1 and lightly toast the strips4 ,drop the meat into the sauce1 and let it cook for eight minutes1 turning it once1 that is1 four minutes for each side4 ,slide it out on to a hot dish1 put the toast round it1 eat it in a hurry1 and thank your stars that you are alive to enjoy it4 ,this is a dish which has few equals and no superiors4 ,it is simple1 innocent1 toothsome1 satisfying1 and several other things4 ,something like it1 but lacking its artistic severity1 may be found in ,alexandre ,dumas' ,great ,dictionary1 but it is complicated with eccentric accessories2 there is a turbulent confused foreground to it which effectually conceals the mutton1 but then1 of course1 poor ,dumas1 although he knew and appreciated1 could rarely obtain the real ,southdown4 ,at the time that the great author was overwhelmed with commissions for novels1 after the enormous success of 8,the ,three ,musketeers0 and other masterpieces1 he was commonly understood to put books in the market which were written by ,auguste ,maquet1 and merely signed by himself4 ,dumas1 as is well known1 was a great amateur cook1 and in fact prided himself more on his dishes than on his novels4 ,one day he invited the famous ,aurelien ,scholl to dinner1 and put before him a salmon mayonnaise which he--,dumas ,pre--had made with his own hands4 8,taste that1 ,scholl10 he said1 8and tell me how you like it40 ,scholl tasted it and made a wry face4 8,really1 ,dumas10 he replied1 8,i think it must be by ,maquet40 ,having been thus trained by the recipes here given1 it seems reasonable to suppose that the ,chafist is able1 after a profound study thereof1 to appreciate the possibilities of the ,chafing ,dish1 and may therefore be permitted to dip as he listeth into the various recipes which follow1 none of which are complicated or expensive1 and most of which require little1 if any1 previous preparation4 ,at the same time ,i would most earnestly beg the ,chafist carefully to rehearse all his impromptu effects1 and never to leave anything to chance4 ,always have your condiments1 your garnishings1 your 8fixings10 as the ,americans say1 ready to hand4 ,let the manipulation of the ,chafing ,dish partake of that ,art which conceals ,art--simply because everything is foreseen1 and nothing postponed till the last moment4 ,let your parsley be ready chopped1 your toast ready cut1 your lemon duly cleaned1 your spare dishes hot and ready1 and1 lastly1 your apparatus in thorough working order4 ,you may then proceed in all good faith and earnestness4 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,iii ,,soups 8,soup is to a dinner what a portico is to a palace1 or an overture to an opera40 ,,grimod ,,de ,,la ,,reyni,,re4 8,while there's life there's soup10 said an irreverent parodist1 but as a matter of fact the reverse of the proverb would be more true1 for1 of a verity1 while there's soup there's life4 ,there can be no complaint of having dined badly1 or even insufficiently1 if one has begun with a plateful of good soup2 good1 mind you1 with some strength and body to it1 for the coloured hot water that masquerades too often as soup is unworthy and despicable4 ,but soup that has character1 individuality1 and belies not its name1 is to the nice eater almost a meal in itself4 ,there are practically no soups beyond the scope of the ,chafing ,dish1 albeit some of the more elaborate bisques1 a bouillabaisse 7an that be a soup71 and a pink ,bortsch1 have not come within my experimental experience4 ,the ordinary ,french consomm1 which may be likened to our gravy soup1 is practically the foundation of most clear soups4 ,one meets on different bills of fare with a score of variations on the theme1 such as ,printanier1 ,brunoise1 ,paysanne1 ,julienne1 ,mitonnage1 ,crote au ,pot1 ,faubonne1 ,macdoine1 ,chiffonade1 ,flamande1 and many more1 but they are really only a matter of flavouring and vegetable decoration upon a foundation of good stock4 ,an old ,french cookbook1 dated #ahbb1 lies before me1 which contains one hundred and two recipes for soups1 but the first one mentioned1 the ,potage au ,naturel1 is the ,mother ,soup of all the rest4 ,the veritable chef has his store of ,mother ,soup1 and that is his kitchen ,stock ,exchange whence practically all his varieties emanate4 ,the ,chafing ,dish votary cannot construct his own ,mother ,soup and keep up his own stock-pot1 but he can use the many excellent preserved soups1 in bottles and boxes1 which nowadays are absolutely equal to those which are self-manipulated or home-made4 ,i have tried many brands1 and really think that there is not very much to choose between them4 ,for ordinary use ,i lean to the ,maggi preparations1 the 8,cross-,star ,soups40 ,they are in tablets1 each sufficient for two persons1 and the ,white ,haricots1 ,onion1 ,tapioca1 ,chervil1 ,sago1 ,semolina1 ,lentil1 ,parmentier1 ,sorrel1 ,barley1 ,rice and ,julienne are quite excellent4 ,the method of procedure is simplicity itself4 ,the tablet is broken into fragments in a cup or a bowl and mixed into a thin paste with a little cold water4 ,then heat a pint of water in the ,chafer to boiling1 pour in the mixture1 and let it cook gently1 not boiling1 for fifteen to twenty minutes4 ,each tablet has its own particular directions on the wrapper1 and ,i have found that they apply equally to the ,chafing ,dish1 except that the time required is rather shorter than that mentioned1 owing to the greater heat4 ,the flavour of the soups can be enhanced by a few drops of sauce1 a sprinkling of ,paprika pepper1 half a wineglass of sherry1 or a dash of ,tabasco2 but this is a matter of individual taste4 ,the tapioca1 sago1 and semolina soups are particularly good1 and ,i do not find that they require the addition of any salt1 although this again is a purely personal affair4 ,a beaten-up raw egg put into the soup and well stirred up just before serving makes it richer and suaver1 but is by no means necessary4 ,by the way1 in cooking soups1 as indeed in all ,chafing-,dish cookery1 ,i cannot too earnestly insist upon the use of wooden spoons for all stirring manipulations4 ,metal spoons1 even silver1 are abhorrent to the good cook4 ,wooden spoons are clean1 cheap1 and thoroughly efficient4 ,the fancy-dress-ball cook 78,cordong blew0 he generally calls himself7 always wears one in his apron1 but if he only knew it1 the wooden spoon 7apart from examination awards7 is his surest title to honour as a true matre de bouche4 ,the ,spanish ,estudiantina also wear a wooden spoon in their black tricorne hats1 but this1 ,i understand1 only means that they are poor and hungry1 and glad to dip their spoon in any one's mess of ,puchero1 in order to enjoy a square meal4 ,pea ,soup4 ,pea soup is a great invention4 ,not the ,pure aux ,petits ,pois 7good as that may be7 of the chefiest of chefs1 but the plain1 good1 thick1 flavoursome pea soup which is as nourishing as it is soothing and satisfying4 ,i find that ,chaffinda's favourite is ,brand's ,consolidated ,pea ,soup1 which sounds like a gold mine1 but is really a sort of ,erbswurst1 only better4 ,it is sold in dainty little tins at an absurdly cheap price4 ,one little tin makes two good platesful4 ,it is prepared by mixing the contents to a thick paste with water4 ,to this paste add a pint of cold water1 put it all in the ,chafing ,dish1 and boil it for about twelve to fifteen minutes until it gets thick4 ,to make it even better1 add a sprinkling of dried mint and a handful of toast dice1 browned with butter1 and you have a feast for hungry gods on a cold day4 ,another way3 instead of using mint and toast1 cut half a dozen thin slices from a ,brunswick sausage1 peel off the rind and drop them in the soup when it is half cooked4 ,the mixture is very toothsome4 ,turtle ,soup4 ,from small things to great3 from the common and strictly garden pea to the ,aldermanic and luscious turtle4 ,most turtle importers make their own preserved turtle1 which is sometimes good and always expensive4 ,for ,chafing-,dish purposes ,i prefer the ,concrete ,turtle ,tablets made by ,levien and ,sherlock1 of #fh ,harbour ,street1 ,kingston1 ,jamaica4 ,they are to be had at the ,army and ,navy ,stores4 ,each little cake is enough for two moderately greedy people1 and costs one shilling4 ,put in the ,chafing ,dish a good pint of water1 which bring to the boil2 add salt and pepper 7,paprika for choice7 to taste4 ,cut the turtle tablet into pieces1 or if it is too hard1 as is often the case in winter1 break it up into eight or ten lumps4 ,throw these into the boiling water and keep on stirring until they dissolve and the soup becomes clear4 ,this takes some little time1 but it is worth waiting for4 ,add a squeeze of lemon juice1 a wine-glass of sherry1 and a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce4 ,give a final stir to these ingredients1 and serve it up steaming hot4 ,there is extraordinary reviving power about a basin of good turtle soup1 and1 as ,i think ,i have shown1 it is quite a mistake to deem it an expensive luxury4 ,abraham ,hayward1 ,q4,c41 in his inimitable book1 8,the ,art of ,dining10 which were originally ,quarterly ,review articles on ,police ,magistrate ,walker's 8,original0 7#ahce71 says that 8,turtle ,soup from ,painter's in ,leadenhall ,street is decidedly the best thing in the shape of soup that can be had in this or perhaps in any other country40 ,and if an ,alderman1 a ,queen's ,counsel1 a ,police ,magistrate--and ,chaffinda--agree on this point1 who shall say them nay8 ,the student of mid-,victorian ballads will remember1 too1 the touching allusion to turtle soup in 8,ferdinando and ,elvira10 by one ,bab1 where the hero searches for the cracker-motto poet1 and at last unearths him at a confectioner's where he has ordered soup3 8#8,found at last6' ,i madly shouted4 #8,gentle pieman1 you astound me6' ,then ,i waved the turtle soup enthusiastically round me40 ,but this was1 on reflection1 probably mock turtle soup1 no bad thing either1 vide ,alice's interview with the ,gryphon4 ,it lives1 when cold1 in a basin1 and is set hard and is therefore wavable4 ,american soups are not to be despised4 ,on the contrary1 they make most excellent good eating--or drinking2 which is it8 do we eat or drink soup8 ,an ,american book of etiquette says1 8,never chew your soup1 always swallow it whole40 ,anyhow ,i have tried1 and found good1 ,clam ,chowder1 ,clam ,broth1 ,chicken ,gumbo1 ,okra1 ,terrapin1 and ,vegetable ,soups4 ,they are in tins1 against which ,i confess ,i am prejudiced1 but as yet ,i am totally unpoisoned1 and ,i am told that there is a possibility of their being shortly put up in bottles4 ,each tin has full instructions1 and these are quite applicable to the ,chafing ,dish1 care always being taken not to boil the soup1 but to heat it gently and continuously4 ,the ,clam ,chowder and ,clam ,broth are both quite excellent1 of a distinct individual flavour1 cheering1 and1 ,i opine1 wholesome4 ,they have a peculiar cachet of their own1 and lend a certain ,transatlantic originality to an otherwise banal ,chafing-,dish luncheon4 ,these and other ,american provisions ,i procure from ,jackson's in ,piccadilly4 ,they are well 8packed10 and adapt themselves excellently to unexpected calls on a limited larder4 ,their variety is infinite1 and their flavour remains good and true4 ,tinned ,broadway in ,london is a pleasant experience4 ,there are other ,american delicacies1 to which reference will be made in due course1 which adapt themselves admirably to ,chafing-,dish idiosyncrasies4 ,columbus' patent egg is not the only culinary innovation from the ,new ,world1 but the average ,british cook is so ignorantly conservative and abhorrently ,chauvinistic that she dreads novelty as she dreads the ,devil4 ,poor ,man's ,soup4 ,poor ,man's ,soup1 as the ,french call it1 is a very restorative dish after a bad day on the ,stock ,exchange1 although there is little of the ,poor ,man about it save the name4 ,put a finely-shredded onion and a walnut of butter in the ,chafing ,dish and fry to a light brown colour1 then add a heaped teaspoonful of flour and stir well2 pour in a pint of stock1 add pepper and salt to taste4 ,peel and slice a potato and scatter it in the soup2 let the mixture come to a boil1 and then allow it to simmer for ten minutes4 ,just before serving stir into it the yolk of an egg1 well beaten up1 and a dozen sippets of dry toast4 ,this is a soothing and easy soup1 but it requires the stockpot1 unless you make use of one of the many varieties of concentrated bouillon or beef-tea1 which certainly save a lot of trouble4 ,palestine ,soup4 ,another simple soup1 which moreover has the advantage of not requiring stock1 is ,palestine or ,jerusalem ,artichoke soup4 ,by the way1 we misname this vegetable strangely4 ,it was imported into ,great ,britain from ,italy1 and being the tuber of a variety of sunflower1 is there termed ,girasole1 because the flower turns to the sun4 ,we1 in our insular ignorance1 corrupted ,girasole to ,jerusalem1 and then1 wishing to refine the latter word1 committed a further solecism by calling the soup made therefrom ,palestine soup4 ,could any little exercise in culinary etymology be more ridiculous1 or more typical8 ,pick out six good-sized ,jerusalem artichokes1 boil them in the ,chafing ,dish with a pinch of salt2 when quite soft1 put them through a fine sieve and place the extract on one side4 ,then put a pint of milk in the dish and boil it with a teaspoonful of ,paprika pepper1 two cloves and a dash of nutmeg1 and a couple of sprigs of parsley4 ,let it boil up for a minute and then strain it1 and also put it aside4 ,melt a walnut of butter in the dish and stir into it a dessert-spoonful of corn-flour1 to which add the strained milk1 and1 lastly1 the artichoke extract1 keeping the spirit-lamp flame low1 so that the mixture shall not boil4 ,when it has simmered for five minutes and become thoroughly amalgamated the soup is ready to serve1 and very good it is1 or ought to be1 if the cooking has been artfully and carefully carried out4 ,crey 7,carrot7 ,soup4 ,carrot ,soup is not only excessively nice and nourishing1 but it has also a curious historical interest4 ,the best ,french carrots come from the neighbourhood of ,crey1 and ,carrot ,soup is therefore generally known as ,crey ,soup4 ,now the famous battle of that name1 where ,edward the ,black ,prince won his three-feather badge and motto of ,ich ,dien1 was fought on ,saturday1 ,august #bf1 #acdf1 and ,court gossip relates that to this day the ,prince of ,wales has ,crey ,soup for dinner every #bfth of ,august4 ,i am unable to verify the statement1 but trust that it may be true2 anyway it is a pretty fable4 ,to make ,carrot ,soup1 cut up three or four fair-sized carrots into thin round slices1 put them in the ,chafing ,dish with a wineglass of sherry1 two cloves1 a sprinkling of nutmeg1 and a good bunch of parsley2 pour over it a cupful of stock and let it nearly boil1 but not quite4 ,when the carrots are quite soft and almost pulpy1 mash them well in a soup-plate and1 discarding anything hard in the mixture1 replace it in the ,chafer with two more cups of stock1 a teaspoon of sugar1 and just before it boils drop in a walnut of butter1 and take it off the flame4 ,toasted dice are the usual accompaniment1 and the soup1 if well concocted1 is very hard to beat for honest1 toothsome fare4 ,the menus of three ,buckingham ,palace dinners tell me that his ,majesty the ,king partook of ,bisque d',ecrevisse on ,may #cj1 #aijb1 of ,clear ,turtle or ,cold ,consomm on ,june #b1 and of ,consomm ,riche on ,june #ac4 ,the second of these quotations is from the interesting programme of the fare offered to the members of the ,jockey ,club at the ,king's ,derby ,dinner1 one item of which was ,cassolettes la ,jockey ,club1 presumably a creation of his ,majesty's chef1 ,monsieur ,mnager4 ,president ,loubet was less lucky when he went on his visit to ,algiers in ,april #aijc4 ,after a review of ten thousand native horsemen at ,krieder1 he was tendered a native banquet by the chiefs1 which began with ,locust ,soup4 ,but even this is not so unappetising as the recipe of a ,monsieur ,dagin1 an entomologist1 for ,cockroach ,soup4 ,it is made thus3 8,pound your cockroaches in a mortar2 put them in a sieve and pour in boiling water or beef-stock4 ,connoisseurs prefer this to real bisque40 ,possibly2 but ,i do not recommend it for the ,chafing ,dish4 ,on the other hand1 real bird's-nest soup is a great luxury4 ,as ,consomm aux ,nids d',hirondelles it occasionally appears on a menu2 and the ,chinese1 ,i understand1 call it ,yen-,war-,gung4 ,there is a subtle taste of the sea in the gelatinous lining of the swallow's nest1 which is exquisite and delicate4 ,the ,japanese make a soup from black seaweed1 but ,i cannot speak of it from experience4 ,there lies before me a curious ,latin menu of a feast given by1 or to1 certain ,german professors whose culinary ,latin seems to me to be a trifle canine4 ,two lines of it read 8,sorbitio cum globulis jecoralibus et lucanicis10 and 8,jus et linguis bovinis factum cum panificio40 ,these ,i take to mean liver soup with sausage1 and ox-tongue soup with bread4 ,but esoteric food-stuffs are more interesting for their quaintness than for any intrinsic merit1 and ,i prefer to turn to the degustation of a ,potage ,germiny1 for instance4 ,this is the invention of the great ,casimir1 of the ,maison d',or1 who has placed it on record that 8the happiest day of my life was the day on which ,i invented the ,potage ,germiny4 ,it is made of sorrel1 the yolks of eggs1 and cream4 ,it was for a dinner given by the ,marquis de ,saint-,georges1 the author of #8,les ,mousquetaires de la ,reine4' ,i had racked my brains to discover something wonderful1 unique2 and finally ,i evolved the potage4 ,when the ,marquis had tasted it he sent for me4 ,i never saw a man more moved4 ,he threw his arms around me and exclaimed in unutterable accents3 #8,casimir1 this is not a soup2 it is a masterpiece6'0 ,this is a veritable human document4 ,william the ,conqueror had a cook called ,tezelin1 who one day served him with a white soup called ,dillegrout4 ,his ,majesty was so pleased that he made ,tezelin ,lord of the ,manor of ,addington4 ,good cooks were appreciated thenadays4 ,but we have lost the recipe for ,dillegrout4 ,attempts have often been made to cook according to ancient recipes1 but rarely with success4 ,the curious in these matters may be referred to ,smollett's observations in 8,peregrine ,pickle0 on certain experiments to cook practically according to the recipes of ,apicius4 ,they ended disastrously4 ,a last word on soup4 ,the ,french cuisine bourgeoise 7the best in the world7 believes in good strong meat for its soups1 and not1 as we erroneously suppose1 makes shift--and good shift too--out of any odds and ends2 8any old thing10 as the ,americans say4 ,on the contrary1 pour faire sourire le pot-au-feu 7delightful expression67 you must have good material1 and plenty of it4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,iv ,,fish 8,in a restaurant1 when a waiter offers you turbot1 ask for salmon1 and when he offers you a sole1 order a mackerel2 as language to man1 so fish has been given to the waiter to disguise his thoughts40--,p4 ,z4 ,,didsbury4 ,the fish of ,great ,britain is1 beyond all manner of doubt1 the very best in the world4 ,it is1 therefore1 only right and proper that its original flavour should be preserved by simply boiling or frying it1 and eating it with what some of the old cook-books call its 8,analogies10 which presumably means its traditional accompaniments3 lemon1 brown bread and butter1 and so much as may be of its own liquor1 or a ,court ,bouillon of the simplest4 ,there are so many ways of spoiling fish that the ,chafer can never go far wrong if he rejects all but the most primitive1 although it is not necessary to revert to the aboriginal braising upon the hot ashes of a nearly extinct wood fire1 without the intervention of any implement of stone or earthenware whatever4 ,this method is1 however1 still in practice to-day in many parts of ,portugal 7and possibly elsewhere7 before the doors of the houses of the wage-earners1 and in the taverns of the commoner folks4 ,without going to extremes1 there is a decent self-respecting kind of cookery1 to the value and charm of which the great ,carme refers in his 8,cuisinier ,franais0 7#ahbh71 and which he calls1 appropriately enough1 le genre mle et lgant4 ,the genius of ,carme1 however1 occasionally led him to a state of self-appreciation which is supreme in its bathos4 ,he says1 for instance1 in a kind of retrospect of his contributions to the culinary art3 8,i contemplated from behind my ovens the kitchens of ,india1 ,china1 ,egypt1 ,greece1 ,turkey1 ,italy1 ,germany and ,switzerland1 and ,i felt their ignoble fabric of routine crumbling under my critical blows40 ,these are1 indeed1 8prave 'orts60 ,herrings are extraordinarily healthy--and cheap4 ,they are caught by the million--who also eat them2 and whether fresh or dried1 raw or salted1 they are one of ,nature's delicacies4 ,fresh herrings offer the largest amount of nutriment for one penny of any kind of animal food4 ,a fresh herring weighing #d ozs4 contains #bdj grains of carbon and #cf grains of nitrogen2 and a dried herring weighing #c oz4 contains #bfi grains of carbon and #da grains of nitrogen4 ,it is obvious by this what smoking will do by decreasing weight and increasing nutriment4 ,red herrings are by no means to be despised1 though it is a mistake to imagine that they are caught in a state of redness4 ,in that fine old book1 8,the ,yarmouth ,fisherman10 which is not much read nowadays1 piscator says to the tourist3 8,sir1 we lay ourselves out to oblige all the gents that come from ,london1 but we cannot make a red herring swim40 ,thereanent is a quaint signboard outside the ,schifferhaus in the old ,hanseatic town of ,lbeck1 one of the most beautiful taverns in the world1 and the haunt of old sea-dogs since the sixteenth century4 ,the signboard represents a fisherman and two amateurs angling from a boat2 the former has caught a fine kipper and the latter are looking supremely disgusted4 ,the legend under the picture runs3 8,one ,cannot ,please ,everybody40 ,kippers and their kin have never lacked admirers1 and it is on record that the ,emperor ,charles ,v4 made a pilgrimage to the tomb of the venerable ,dutchman who is supposed to have invented pickled herrings4 ,fried ,herrings4 ,to come from herrings in the abstract to herrings in the concrete1 try this in ,chaffinda3 ,two very fresh herrings1 very clean and dry4 ,fry them in three tablespoons of oil or two of butter1 with a squeeze of lemon1 salt1 pepper1 six peppercorns and a tablespoon of vinegar4 ,after they have cooked for eight minutes put the fish aside in a hot dish4 ,then cut a good-sized ,spanish onion into rings1 fry these in the oil left by the herrings till they are of a dark brown colour1 taking great care not to burn them4 ,when ready1 which should be in about six minutes1 heap them round the herrings and serve with quarters of lemon4 ,this is a lordly dish1 and if properly concocted it leaves you in that state that you will love all mankind--and even tolerate the ,chinese4 ,dean ,nowell1 or ,noel1 a clerical ,izaak ,walton1 and ,dean of ,st4 ,paul's 7#aejg-afjb7 said that the only thing wrong with the herring was that it preferred the sea to the river4 ,the ,dean angled much in the ,ash at ,hadham2 he wrote the ,church ,catechism1 invented bottled beer 7by accident71 and fished for perch and souls4 ,peace be to his6 ,there are as many ways of cooking the herring as there are days in the year2 even ,bismarck invented one1 but there are other fish in the sea which demand ,chaffinda's attention1 and however enticing the subject may be1 it will not do to linger over it4 ,the lordly salmon was not always so honoured in its exclusiveness as it is to-day4 ,in our grandfathers' time it was still frequenting the ,thames1 and ,london servants1 when engaged1 used to stipulate that they were not to be fed on it more than twice a week4 ,chafed ,salmon4 ,this is as good a way as any of treating the salmon in the ,chafing ,dish3 ,put two tablespoonsful of butter in the pan and when it is melting stir in gradually a tablespoon of flour1 and keep on stirring till it is smooth2 add a wineglass of water1 the juice of a whole lemon1 a small onion cut in rings1 and the yolks of two eggs1 hard-boiled and mashed up4 ,when all these ingredients are well mixed1 put in a thick slice of previously boiled cold salmon1 simmer it for eight minutes4 ,tinned salmon1 of the very best brands only1 may also be used1 and the result is fairly satisfactory1 but tinned goods are of course only a pis aller at best4 ,they do say that the ,devil never goes to ,cornwall because they put everything into a pie down there1 and he is afraid he might be put into one too4 ,i heard of ,stargazer ,pie in ,cornwall1 and imagined that it referred to the ,riviera fish which is not succulent--indeed1 barely edible4 ,but ,i learned that ,stargazer ,pie is really ,pilchard ,pie1 the heads of the fish popping up through the crust4 ,cod ,pudding4 ,a good ,cornish way of cooking cod is to make a pudding of it1 which is quite chaffable4 ,use a thick slice of cold cooked cod4 ,remove skin and bones and flake it up smallish with a couple of forks4 ,put it in the ,chafing ,dish with two tablespoons of butter and one of chopped onions2 hot it up1 and whilst heating 7lower the flame before actual boiling7 add gradually enough milk to make the fish of the consistency of mashed potatoes2 add pepper and salt1 and serve it with sippets of toast4 ,it will like you much4 ,souchet of ,sprats4 ,now for sprats2 a good supper dish1 and eke for breakfast too1 because they are so fat that no butter or oil is required1 but plenty of salt and pepper4 ,buy a pint of fresh sprats1 soak and dry them very carefully1 handling them as little as possible4 ,cook them as a water souchet or ,zootje1 an old ,dutch method1 formerly much honoured at ,greenwich fish dinners1 and originally made of flounders4 ,but flounders are not convenient for a ,chafing ,dish1 so you must perforce fall back on sprats4 ,don't slip6 ,cut off the heads and tails of the sprats and put them into the pan with a cupful of thin bouillon1 three sprigs of parsley1 half a sliced carrot1 and plenty of salt and pepper4 ,let this boil up for ten minutes4 ,take it off2 strain the liquor1 return the fish to the pan with three more sprigs of parsley and another sliced half carrot4 ,boil up again for five minutes this time4 ,a squeeze of lemon and a glass of sherry to be added just before serving1 of course with the sauce round the fish4 ,it has always been said1 although it is scarcely provable1 that fish1 owing to the phosphorus1 is good as a brainmaker4 ,a visitor at a ,devonshire fishing village asked the parson what was the principal diet of the villagers4 8,fish mostly10 said the ,vicar4 8,but ,i thought fish was a brain food1 and these are the most unintelligent folk ,i ever saw10 remarked the tourist4 8,well10 replied the parson1 8just think what they would look like if they didn't eat fish60 ,in ,america the lobster is a frequent victim of the ,chafing ,dish1 and there are many and diverse ways of torturing his succulent flesh therein4 ,i will give three recipes of a more simple nature1 all of which have been tried and proven not guilty of indigestion4 ,i should premise1 however1 that to my individual taste a lobster is only really good in two ways4 ,first1 plain boiled and eaten cold with a vinaigrette sauce2 and1 secondly1 as a simple salad with lettuce and perchance a stray tomato4 ,however1 there may be others with different tastes1 and to such ,i commend the following3 ,buttered ,lobster4 ,first1 ,buttered ,lobster4 ,beat up two egg yolks with two tablespoons of butter until it makes a smooth cream2 add a wineglass of milk or cream1 a pinch of black pepper1 and half a teaspoon of ,paprika4 ,put it in the ,chafing ,dish with the meat of a lobster cut into inch pieces1 add the coral4 ,let it simmer for ten minutes1 keeping the flame well under control4 ,polly ,lobster4 ,the next recipe is called ,polly ,lobster1 and it is toothsome4 ,cut up the lobster into inch lumps1 put it in the dish with two or three tablespoons of salad oil1 according to its size2 add three or four whole onions1 a small bunch of chives1 pepper and salt1 a wineglass of sherry1 and three quartered tomatoes4 ,let it boil up for a couple of minutes1 squeeze a lemon over it1 and serve4 ,flattered ,lobster4 ,the last variation on the lobster theme is somewhat elaborate4 ,it is termed ,flattered ,lobster1 the reason being1 ,i opine1 because of the many added attractions to the crustacean's native simplicity4 ,it is not quite orthodox perhaps1 but extraordinarily nice4 ,cut up the meat of a large lobster into cubes4 ,make a mixture of two tablespoons of ,worcester sauce1 the same of vinegar1 a wineglass of claret1 a dessertspoon of made mustard 7,french for choice71 salt and ,paprika to taste4 ,put the lobster in the ,chafer and pour the mixture over it1 adding a tablespoon of butter and the like of flour4 ,let it all heat up gently and slowly2 that is1 begin with a full flame and reduce after five minutes4 ,then pour in a liqueur glass of brandy1 and heat it up again with full flame for eight minutes1 stirring it all the time4 ,the result is surprising4 ,a fish story which is not without charm is told of a seaside village school of very rough fishing lads4 ,the teacher gave them this sum to do3 8,if two herrings cost three half-pence1 what would thirty cost80 ,after ten minutes' hard work he noticed one of the boys had filled his copy-book full of figures4 8,well1 ,jim1 what's your answer80 8,please1 teacher1 'alf a crown40 8,wrong1 ,jim1 try again4 ,if two herrings----0 8,wait a bit1 teacher10 the lad interrupted1 8'errings you said4 ',ow silly of me2 ,i was a-reckoning of 'em like 'addocks40 ,prawns lend themselves most kindly to ,chafing-,dish cookery1 and can be treated in sundry appetising ways4 ,fresh prawns are of course quite the best1 but the ,barataria canned article is not to be despised1 if they be carefully washed before using2 and there are one or two brands of bottled prawns which cook excellently4 ,digestive ,prawns4 ,shell two dozen prawns1 put them in the ,chafing ,dish with half a pint of milk1 half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 a pinch of salt1 and a sprinkling of nutmeg4 ,keep stirring till near boiling-point1 then lower the flame2 add a glass of sherry and two beaten eggs2 simmer for eight minutes1 and then serve on toast4 ,prawn ,wiggle4 ,the next is an ,american recipe and rejoices in the name of ,prawn ,wiggle4 ,melt three tablespoons of butter in the dish1 and two tablespoons of flour mixed with a teaspoon of salt and a good pinch of pepper4 ,stir up and then pour in gradually half a pint of milk4 ,as soon as the sauce thickens add a cupful of prawns and a cupful of cold cooked green peas4 ,mix up well and simmer for eight minutes4 ,the pink and green form a delightsome colour blend1 suggesting certain well-known racing colours1 and the combined flavours are most delicate4 ,but why 8wiggle08 ,well1 why not8 ,prawns on the ,grass4 ,prawns on the ,grass is recommendable1 easy1 and decorative for the supper-table4 ,butter lightly the bottom of the ,chafing ,dish1 half fill it with carefully prepared cooked cold spinach2 on this put a dozen prawns1 two eggs1 hard-boiled and cut in quarters2 arrange these symmetrically1 add pepper1 salt1 and a cupful of milk4 ,cover up and let it simmer steadily for ten to twelve minutes4 ,serve in the ,chafing ,dish with sippets of toast4 ,it is impossible to treat here of the delectable crayfish1 crawfish1 and langouste2 they are all cookable and easily digested4 ,best of all1 perhaps1 are the ,oder ,krebse1 and the ,swedish ,krftor1 with their delightful and unique flavour and sweetness1 but they must be eaten near where they are born in order to be appreciated4 ,in the company of chaste ,chaffinda it is easy to enjoy a maigre day1 for she deals so delicately with fish that one is almost tempted to envy the days of 8,cecil's ,fast40 ,it will be remembered that ,lord ,burleigh introduced a ,bill to enjoin the eating of fish only on certain days1 on all creeds alike1 in order to restore the fish trade4 ,it would be highly improper to devote a chapter to fish without referring to ,vatel committing suicide on his sword 7or was it a skewer871 but the story is as stale as the fish would be when it did arrive after all4 ,a century ago his memory was rather painfully honoured by roasted slices of cod on a spit1 the dish being called la ,vatel4 ,to many worthy folk1 painters in particular1 the magic word trout immediately suggests ,varnishing ,day at the ,paris ,salon1 and djeuner at ,ledoyen's4 ,trout with green sauce is the staple traditional dish of the day4 ,a couple of years ago ,i had the curiosity to inquire how much was eaten1 and the matre d'htel gave me the following figures3 #bej lbs4 of trout2 #ae gallons of green sauce2 #abj chickens2 #hj ducks2 #dj saddles of lamb2 #agj bundles of asparagus2 and #ajj baskets of strawberries4 ,besides this1 the usual thousand and one odds and ends of a miscellaneous carte du jour4 ,painters have proverbially good appetites4 ,oysters4 ,purposely1 and of malice prepense1 ,i am carefully omitting all mention of the cooking of oysters in any shape or form4 ,i consider it nfaste--almost sacrilegious4 ,our natives are so exquisitely succulent1 so absolutely perfect in their delicacy1 that to paint the lily or to gild refined gold were pickaninny peccadilloes compared to the cooking of the oyster4 ,it is different1 ,i believe1 in the ,united ,states of ,america1 where there are various kinds of oysters1 some requiring1 almost demanding1 cooking to render them palatable4 ,transatlantic cookery books are full of oyster recipes1 in many of which the true oyster flavour must be entirely obliterated by the superadded condiments4 ,this may be a question of gastronomic supply and demand4 ,but my humble ,chafing ,dish shall not be defiled by the torture of the innocent bivalve4 ,dixi6 ,trout in ,small ,broth4 ,to return to trout4 ,the fresh-water fish1 the darling product of the stream1 cannot be too respectfully approached1 whether from an angling or a culinary point of view4 ,izaac ,walton1 in his inimitable charm and wisdom1 has much to say thereon4 ,unfortunately his methods are impracticable in a ,chafing ,dish4 ,i find the best way to treat a trout is with a ,court ,bouillon4 ,this is how to make it3 ,mix a glass of sherry1 a tablespoon of vinegar1 a glass of water1 two bay leaves1 a dozen peppercorns1 a bunch of parsley1 a sliced onion1 and a pinch of salt4 ,amalgamate these materials thoroughly4 ,have your trout well cleaned and dried4 ,pop him into the ,chafing ,dish and cover him with the ,court ,bouillon4 ,let it cook slowly but steadily for twenty minutes4 ,then eat it with thanks and praise4 ,smothered ,turbot4 ,here is a good way of preparing the remains of turbot4 ,it is called ,smothered ,turbot1 and is founded on an old ,hastings fishwife's recipe4 ,butter the inside of the ,chafing ,dish2 spread thereon a layer of bread crumbs1 chopped mushrooms1 parsley1 cut-up lemon peel1 pepper and salt4 ,break up the cold cooked turbot small and make a second layer thereof4 ,add two tablespoons of butter1 and then another layer the same as the first4 ,heat up and keep at a good heat for twelve minutes4 ,serve it in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,sardines in a ,hurry4 ,sardines are one of the handiest of standbys for the ,chafist4 ,but get the best brands and smallish fish2 the large ones are apt to suggest pilchards1 which1 although good in their way1 are not sardines4 ,sardines in a ,hurry are done thusly3 ,take the sardines out of the box carefully on to a plate1 pour boiling water over them1 and drain it off at once4 ,take off all the skin1 bone them1 and cut off the tails4 ,prepare thin strips of hot buttered toast1 put a sardine on each strip1 pepper and salt it1 pour over it a modicum of plain melted butter and a squeeze of lemon juice4 ,put them into the ,chafing ,dish and hot up for five minutes4 ,waldorf ,sardines4 ,another very good if not quite as simple a way of preparing them is ,waldorf ,sardines4 ,pour boiling water over a dozen sardines1 wiping off the skin with a clean fish-cloth and removing the tails4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with one tablespoon of olive oil and heat thoroughly for eight minutes4 ,put them aside on a dish and keep them hot4 ,now put another tablespoon of olive oil into the pan1 and when sizzling add a cupful of water4 ,stir until it gets thick1 then add a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce1 half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 and a pinch of salt4 ,take the dish off the flame4 ,add the beaten yolk of an egg1 one teaspoon of vinegar and the same of ,french mustard4 ,stir the sauce4 ,heat up the sardines again1 and pour the sauce over them4 ,as a supper dish1 say after a ,royal ,institution lecture1 or something equally improving1 this gives one what the late ,george du ,maurier called 8a sense of genial warmth about the midriff40 ,creamed ,smelts4 ,a rather more subtle but curiously refined concoction is ,creamed ,smelts4 ,clean and dry a dozen smelts in a cloth4 ,dip them one by one in thick cream1 or1 wanting that1 in milk thickened with flour2 then dredge them with flour so as to make a paste coating all over them4 ,put two tablespoons of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 and when sizzling put in the fish with a squeeze of lemon and a glass of sherry4 ,they will be ready in eight minutes4 ,sprinkle fried parsley over them before serving4 ,the delicate faint perfume of the smelt has been likened to that of the cucumber1 violets and verbena4 ,it is quite unique among fish1 and has a charm that is all its own4 ,this method of cooking preserves this peculiarity4 ,some other methods do not4 ,avoid buying sand-smelts 7,atherines74 ,they are very similar to the real thing1 but lack the characteristic perfume1 and they are neither as delicate in flavour or taste4 ,kedgeree4 ,all ,anglo-,indians1 and many who have never been nearer ,india than ,south ,kensington1 know the virtues of kedgeree1 kadgiori1 kitchri1 kegeree1 kitcharee1 kitchery1 or even quitheri4 ,it is spelt and made in forty-seven different ways1 every one of which is strictly authentic1 and1 according to different authorities1 the ,one and ,only way4 ,this is ,martin ,harvey ,kedgeree4 ,boil two cupfuls of rice1 and strain it well4 ,mix in it two chopped cold hard-boiled eggs1 any cold remains of cooked fish1 flaked and salted2 add a tablespoon of butter1 the same of milk1 a teaspoon of ,paprika1 and half a teaspoon of salt4 ,toss it all about in the ,chafing ,dish thoroughly1 and then hot it up for ten minutes4 ,squeeze a lemon over it just before serving4 ,kedgeree is by no means solely a breakfast dish4 ,it comes in handily at all times1 but never argue about kedgeree with an ,anglo-,indian4 ,it is fatal to the kedgeree4 ,it gets cold--and then vois que c'est triste pour vous1 as ,mephistopheles sings when he looks at ,siebel's hand4 ,next to the ,indian1 the ,chinese is one of the most inventive cooks in the world4 ,i had one once who had been1 amongst other things1 a pirate1 a prison-warder1 an actor1 and a judge4 ,he had sudden inspirations1 and therein lay his weakness4 ,he knew that ,english folk ate jelly with mutton1 so he tried strawberry jam with eggs and bacon1 and following the principle of apple sauce with goose1 he gave me hot cherry brandy with roast fowl4 ,he was a bad cook1 but a most fluent and ingenious liar4 ,the best-flavoured eels are those that come from the ,thames21 they are much better than the ,dutch4 ,there are four kinds3 the ,snig1 the ,grig1 the ,broadnosed1 and the ,sharp-nosed4 ,the last are the best4 ,izaak ,walton says3 8,it is agreed that the eel is a most dainty dish0--and who shall say him nay8 ,the ,greeks went further and called it 8the ,helen of the dinner-table10 because every guest strove1 like ,paris1 to keep it for himself4 ,souchet of ,eels4 ,to make a water souchet of eels follow the directions for sprats1 but cut the eels into inch chunks1 and boil for half as long again in each case4 ,some folks think that eels are at their best in a souchet1 which has the tendency of bringing out the best flavour of the fish4 ,jellied eels and stewed eels1 both ,east ,end and racecourse prime favourites1 are somewhat too rich and coarse for any save the very ravenous1 but it is certain that there is a deal of rich1 if perhaps somewhat heavy1 nourishment in the eel1 and its meat is a great delicacy in any form4 ,nettled ,eels4 ,nettled ,eels are much esteemed in ,normandy4 ,they may be prepared in the same fashion as water souchet1 with the addition of a handful of clean washed young nettles1 which should be cooked with the fish but taken out before serving4 ,they give a peculiar zest to the dish1 which is quite pleasant4 ,matelote of ,eels4 ,the classic form of the eel is as a ,matelote1 originally a marine dish1 and quite within ,chaffinda's compass4 ,have your eel cut into inch-and-a-half lengths1 about one pound in all2 put a large walnut of butter1 or two tablespoons of oil in the ,chafing ,dish1 also a dozen small peeled onions2 let them brown thoroughly and frizzle well2 add a tablespoon of flour1 a teaspoon of ,paprika1 and half as much salt4 ,heat up and stir well until it is all thoroughly amalgamated1 then put in six small mushrooms1 flat or button 7fresh of course71 add a good squeeze of lemon1 and if the mixture is thicker than cream1 pour in a little water4 ,now put in a tumbler 7half-pint7 of good claret1 a couple of cloves1 a bay leaf1 and a teacup of bouillon4 ,let the mixture simmer for eight minutes1 after which put in the eel and a liqueur glass of brandy1 and cook for another ten minutes2 then serve very hot4 ,an orthodox variation is to set light to the brandy before pouring it in and if the boiling wine catches fire it gives a peculiar savour4 ,a well-made ,matelote is a thing of joy1 a combination of harmonies1 culminating in one grand ,amen4 ,izaak ,walton designates such a dish a 8,hogoo40 ,grandfather's ,bloaters4 ,finally1 here is a dish which is superlative in its simplicity4 ,it is not a ,chafing-,dish recipe1 but is yet not altogether out of place4 ,it is called ,grandfather's ,bloaters4 ,put two fine bloaters into a soup-plate1 pour over them enough whisky just to cover them4 ,set light to the whisky1 and let it burn itself out4 ,the bloaters will then be done--and done exquisitely4 ,the dish is attributed to ,charles ,sala1 the father of the late ,george ,augustus ,sala4 ,it reads much more bibulous than it really is4 ,as a matter of fact1 it is almost a temperance dish4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter,v ,,flesh,,and,,fowl 8,alas6 how simple to these cates compared ,was that crude apple that diverted ,eve80 ,,milton 78,paradise ,regained074 ,it has always been a puzzle to me why folks take flesh and fowl so much more seriously than fish and vegetables4 ,your fair neighbour at a dinner-party will prattle gaily through soup and fish1 of polo or pantomime1 according to the season1 but as soon as meat or bird makes its appearance she1 all unconsciously1 dives into deeper topics1 and talks of palontology or premature burial4 ,why8 ,of course1 if this had only happened to myself1 ,i should know that ,i was a sepulchral bore1 but ,i find1 on inquiry1 that it is the experience of nine men out of ten4 ,in ,w4 ,h4 ,mallock's 8,new ,republic10 some quite nice people find before them at dinner a menu of the conversation expected of them1 as well as of the food to be eaten4 ,it was arranged something after the fashion of the bill of fare of a great dinner where the wines are indicated against each course4 ,thus instead of ,tortue ,claire--,amontillado1 something like this1 ,crme d',asperges--,our ,foreign ,policy1 was printed on the card4 ,mr4 ,mallock relates that the scheme was not found practicable1 but the idea1 in itself1 seems alluring and full of possibilities4 ,anyhow1 it is obvious to the most casual diner-out that there is a direct1 if indefinable1 link between cates and conversation1 and that the tide of talk ebbs and flows through the menu according to a certain unascertained but more or less fixed law4 ,the great question of ,sauce has broken up many ,damon-,pythias friendships1 and brought havoc into sundry happy homes4 ,no two people think exactly alike on ,sauces4 ,there are so many schools4 ,the ,flamboyant1 the ,renaissance1 the ,simplicists1 the ,natural ,flavourites1 the ,neo-,soho1 and many others4 ,the only way to gastronomic salvation is to steer a careful course between extremes1 and to take that which is best and most expedient from each and every school4 ,a very refined and intelligent cannibal once had the politeness to ask the future ornament of his stock-pot1 8,with what sauce would you like to be eaten80 8,but ,i don't want to be eaten at all10 was the reply4 8,that is entirely beside the question10 said the cannibal4 ,this rather suggests the famous ,green ,sauce which ,la ,coste offered to ,sir ,thomas ,dundas1 at the ,duke of ,york's table1 with the whispered advice1 8,with this sauce you would enjoy eating your grandfather40 ,do what we will1 we cannot get away from ,sauce4 ,it is a necessary if unobtrusive concomitant of the plainest meats4 ,but it can be mitigated1 assuaged2 and from a loathly disguise it can be transformed into a dulcet accompaniment4 8,les animaux se repaissent2 l'homme mange3 l'homme d'esprit seul sait manger10 said ,brillat-,savarin1 who achieved much of his literary success by gross flattery of the palates of his friends4 ,charles de ,monselet1 the author of 8,la ,cuisinire ,potique10 and a very earnest advocate of simplicity1 as against rioting in the stewpans1 wrote3 8,the man who pays no attention to the food he consumes can only be likened to a pig in whose trough the trotters of his own son1 a pair of braces1 and a box of dominoes are equally welcome40 ,at the same time the affectation of simplicity is often grossly overdone4 ,when ,lord ,byron first met ,tom ,moore at ,samuel ,rogers' rooms in ,st4 ,james's ,place1 the noble lord affected a lack of appetite for anything except potatoes and vinegar1 biscuits and soda water2 but he made a very hearty meal at his club afterwards4 ,again1 ,percy ,bysshe ,shelley1 who was certainly not affected1 but probably absent-minded1 when he felt hungry would dash into the first baker's shop1 buy a loaf1 and rush out again1 breaking off pieces as he walked1 and eating them there and then1 his scanty meal being eked out by common raisins1 a small stock of which he kept in his waistcoat pocket4 ,by way of contrast1 it is related of ,george ,frederick ,handel1 the great composer1 a man of voracious appetite and exaggerated capacity1 that he ordered dinner for three at a tavern1 and1 being hungry1 asked1 8,is de tinner retty80 ,the waiter replied that he was waiting for the company to come4 8,i am de gompany10 said ,handel1 8bring up de tinner prestissimo40 ,this anecdote1 probably unveracious1 is often attributed to ,papa ,haydn--which is ridiculous4 ,joints and whole birds1 save very small ones1 are of course out of the question with a ,chafing ,dish1 but steaks1 cutlets1 disjointed birds1 and a thousand varieties of treating flesh and fowl1 raw and cooked1 are well within its range4 ,rump ,steak4 ,beef steak1 or rump steak1 is very palatable cooked in the following manner4 ,give a one-pound steak a thorough beating4 ,mallets are made for this express purpose1 but if such an implement be not available1 ,i have used the head of a poker1 wrapped in cloth1 with great effect4 ,this drubbing makes the meat tender4 ,put the steak into the dish with two tablespoons of butter and three slices of lemon4 ,cook it slowly for twelve minutes4 ,then pour over it a cupful of bouillon and a wine-glass of claret4 ,simmer it for ten minutes more with an added teaspoon of ,worcester sauce1 salt and pepper4 ,before serving the steak1 which ought to be thoroughly tender1 squeeze a lemon over it4 ,onions are1 ,i venture to think1 a great improvement1 and two of them1 cut in rings1 may well be added1 after the first twelve minutes' cooking4 ,the ,roast ,beef of ,old ,england which has done so much to maintain the reputation of ,great ,britain on the ,continent1 is strangely mistreated and man-handled in foreign parts4 ,it is often served saignant or nearly raw1 under the mistaken belief that we like it that way4 ,moreover1 in very old ,french cookery books1 roast mutton and roast lamb are gravely designated ,rosbif de ,mouton and ,rosbif d',agneau respectively4 ,was this sheer flattery1 or ignorance1 or both8 ,devilled ,beef4 ,devilled ,beef can be highly recommended in this fashion3 ,three thick slices of cold cooked roast beef1 lean4 ,butter them as though they were slices of bread4 ,then dose them liberally with the following mixture3 ,one teaspoon made mustard1 half a teaspoon black pepper1 same of salt1 a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce1 and a tablespoon of vinegar4 ,cook them in this in the ,chafing ,dish1 until the meat begins to curl up at the edges4 ,this1 although very good1 is mere journeyman work and not a 8creation40 ,did not ,aristotle say that a man who eats a dinner is a better judge of it than the cook8 ,that is judgment1 however1 not creation1 and the ,french cook-artists call their dishes 8creations0--like the dressmakers4 ,a chop1 ,i contend1 should only be cooked on a gridiron--grilled1 that is to say1 over an open fire4 ,any other treatment is an offence which1 in a more enlightened age1 would be made indictable4 ,st4 ,lawrence would rise in his grave and object1 were a chop put in a ,chafing ,dish--and quite right too6 ,st4 ,lawrence is of course the patron saint of the grill1 for is he not said to have been broiled alive on a gridiron8 ,according to the respectable authority of ,foxe's ,book of ,martyrs1 his dying words were3 8,this side enough is toasted1 so turn me1 tyrant1 eat1 ,and see whether1 raw or roasted1 ,i make the better meat40 ,chipped ,beef4 ,one of the best things produced in ,america1 besides buyers of spurious art works and donors of ,free ,libraries1 is ,chipped ,beef4 ,you can buy it in tins and treat it thus4 ,put three tablespoons of butter in the dish4 ,when just melted add a tablespoon of flour2 stir until smooth4 ,then add the ,chipped ,beef1 which must have been previously soaked in cold water for ten minutes2 let it simmer for eight minutes1 then stir in the beaten-up yolks of two eggs1 and serve very hot4 ,every day is ,thanksgiving ,day when one eats ,chipped ,beef1 and it is a selfish dish to cook1 because one wants to eat it all oneself2 and the worst of eating is that it takes away one's appetite--although there is a proverb to the contrary4 ,but it is always comfortable to be content 7or nearly so7 on good plain food1 instead of on the misguided concoctions of addle-egged and-pated foreigners1 which leave one in the position of the unfortunate vultures in the famous ,oxford prize poem1 who 8,satiated with one horrid meal1 ,no second rapture for another feel40 ,zrazy4 ,this is how to make ,polish ,zrazy in a ,chafing ,dish4 ,buy the whole undercut 7fillet7 of a small sirloin4 ,cut it into inch slices4 ,brown two sliced onions in the ,dish in a large walnut of butter4 ,add the meat1 a teaspoon of ,paprika1 salt1 and half a dozen cloves4 ,cover up1 and let it hot up to boiling4 ,do not uncover1 as the great thing is to let it steam in its own fumet4 ,shake the pan now and again1 so that it shall amalgamate well4 ,after once boiling up1 let it simmer for fifteen minutes1 add a good squeeze of lemon1 a glass of claret1 and serve with the accompaniment of potato salad4 8,this dish of meat is too good for any but anglers1 or very honest men10 says ,izaak ,walton of a like concoction4 ,frizzled ,ham4 ,do you think you would like ,frizzled ,ham8 ,i do2 and this is how ,i cook it4 ,start with half a pound of rather fat ham in thin slices4 ,put half a tablespoon of butter in the pan1 and when very hot add the ham4 ,as soon as it begins to curl at the edges1 dust the slices with dry flour1 which will soon turn brown4 ,turn the lamp down and keep simmering4 ,now mix in a bowl half a tablespoon of vinegar and the same of dry mustard4 ,pour it over the ham1 add enough boiling water to cover the meat1 put in three drops of ,tabasco1 and let it all boil up for a minute4 ,ham in ,hades4 ,another and somewhat similar way of preparing ham1 which has been very successful1 particularly at supper-time1 after1 say1 a lobster salad1 has been christened ,ham in ,hades4 ,make a mixture of a teaspoon of made mustard1 a tablespoon of ,tarragon vinegar1 a pinch of salt1 a teaspoon of ,paprika1 a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce4 ,spread this mixture on both sides of half a dozen slices of ham4 ,put two tablespoons of olive oil in the ,chafer4 ,when this begins to smoke1 put in the ham and brown it quickly on both sides4 ,gallimaufrey4 ,gallimaufrey is a very old dish1 meaning really ,all ,sorts4 ,shakespeare calls it ,gaily-,mawfrey4 ,a very excellent ,modern ,gallimaufrey is prepared thus3 ,three thickish slices of ham with two walnuts of butter in the ,dish4 ,let it cook slowly4 ,add six peeled and washed ,jerusalem artichokes1 three sliced carrots1 one sliced onion4 ,let it go on simmering4 ,now put in a couple of dozen haricot beans1 a sprig of parsley1 three cloves1 a wineglass of sherry1 a blade of mace1 salt1 pepper1 and a teaspoon of sugar4 ,simmer it for twenty minutes1 bringing it at last just to the boil4 ,it is then an agreeable stew1 which is probably as totally unlike the real old-fashioned ,gallimaufrey as anything possibly could be4 ,but that really does not matter4 ,gallimaufrey dates back to the time of ,master ,robert ,may1 who published a memorable cook-book in #affj1 which is not without its humours4 ,a real old ,english banquet1 it seems1 would not be complete without two pies1 the one filled with live frogs1 and the other with birds4 ,these are for the particular delectation of the ladies4 8,they will desire to see what is in the pies2 where lifting first the lid off one pie1 out skips some frogs1 which makes the ladies to skip and shreek2 next after the other pie1 whence come out the birds1 who1 by a natural instinct1 flying at the light1 will put out the candles4 ,so that what with frogs beneath1 and birds above1 it will cause much delight and pleasure to the whole company40 ,they were right merry folk then6 ,bubble and ,squeak4 ,not to know ,bubble and ,squeak is to admit one's ignorance of one of the good things of this earth4 ,chaffinda can tackle it1 and in this wise4 ,it is an old ,cornish version4 ,there may be others1 but there can be none better4 ,the dish needs cabbage1 and it is most practical to get a young fresh cabbage1 boiled1 pressed1 and chopped into shreds before you begin the actual cooking4 ,it saves time and trouble4 ,put a tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 also one chopped onion1 and the cabbage4 ,let it frizzle and absorb the butter4 ,just before boiling1 add gradually a cupful of milk1 pepper and salt4 ,as soon as it boils up1 take it off and put it aside in a hot dish4 ,now hot up three underdone slices of cooked cold roast beef in two tablespoons of butter1 turning them frequently1 so that they shall be well cooked on both sides2 add a tablespoon of ,worcester sauce and the same of vinegar4 ,now make a mound of the cooked cabbage1 and put the slices of well-done meat around it1 upright4 ,you will regret that you did not cook double the quantity4 ,there are so many kinds of sausages that it is difficult to pitch upon the best for ,chafing purposes4 ,slices of the ,brunswick species are excellent in pea-soup4 ,the genuine liver sausage makes good sandwiches4 ,the more elaborate ,french kinds are akin to galantine4 ,the ,italian ,bologna and ,mortadella have their friends4 ,but1 after all1 the well-made ,cambridge sausage is hard to beat4 ,i plump for the ,cambridge variety4 ,hodge's ,sausages4 ,this is a ,cambridge recipe for ,hodge's ,sausages4 ,put as many as you think you can eat in the dish with a walnut of butter for every two1 pepper and salt1 and a tablespoon of ,worcester sauce4 ,then add one sliced apple for each sausage4 ,take out the cores1 but do not peel them4 ,stab the sausages with a fork to prevent their bursting4 ,cook for twelve minutes4 ,american apples are good for this dish1 and also the homegrown ,keswick ,codlin1 ,blenheim ,orange1 or ,hambledon ,deux ,ans4 ,there is something peculiarly bucolic about ,hodge's ,sausages which may commend itself to the rurally minded4 ,to me1 it brings the scent of the hay over the spirit-lamp4 ,goulasch4 ,another appetising stew is ,goulasch4 ,beat well a half-pound 7or larger7 steak2 cut it into pieces the size of a domino4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with two cold cooked potatoes chopped into dice4 ,pour over the meat and the vegetables two tablespoons of olive oil1 and as soon as it simmers add an onion in slices1 half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 salt1 and a cupful of bouillon4 ,cover it up1 and let it cook for ten minutes1 stirring occasionally4 ,just before serving drop in half a dozen stoned olives4 ,so much for beef4 ,the next meat is of course mutton1 for which three recipes should suffice4 ,the first is ,mutton ,steaks1 and is adapted from a ,welsh recipe4 ,i have a very interesting ,welsh cookery book1 tersely entitled3 8,llyfr ,cogino a ,chadw ty3 yn cynwys ,pa fodd8 ,a ,paham8 ,cogyddiaeth40 ,i am sorry that ignorance prevents my giving anything out of it1 but ,i think that ,i have got the title nearly right4 ,mutton ,steaks4 ,to make ,mutton ,steaks1 cut three slices1 each an inch thick1 from the middle of a cold cooked leg of mutton4 ,put them in the ,dish with enough water to cover them1 pepper and salt1 and five small onions4 ,cover it up and let the meat brown thoroughly on one side1 then turn it over and add a walnut of butter and a tablespoon of flour4 ,do not allow it to boil1 but keep it simmering gently for at least fifteen minutes4 ,if raw meat be used1 the result is also quite satisfactory1 but it is well in that case to replace the water by a cup of bouillon4 ,turkish ,mutton4 ,turkish ,mutton1 locally termed ,etena ,jarvat3 this is one of those dishes which may fairly be included in ,brillat-,savarin's magistres restoratifs4 ,it is easy enough to chafe4 ,cut half a pound of uncooked mutton 7from the leg from choice1 but not absolutely necessary7 into medium dice4 ,put the meat into the ,chafing ,dish with salt1 pepper and dripping1 fat1 oil1 or butter1 according to taste1 but oil is preferable4 ,when the meat turns brown1 add half a pound of previously cooked and sliced ,french beans1 also half a pint of water or bouillon 7latter for choice7 and a bunch of simples1 either thyme or marjoram1 or both4 ,simmer steadily for twenty minutes1 stirring occasionally4 ,carrots can be used instead of beans4 ,just before serving turn up the flame full1 and let it come just to the boil4 ,mutton ,venison4 ,mutton ,venison is a compromise1 and may be recommended as such4 ,we live in an age of compromise1 so why not bring it into our cookery8 ,make an extra strong decoction of bouillon from any good meat-juice1 three tablespoons in quantity1 mince into it an onion1 and put in the pan with a tablespoonful of ,worcester sauce1 three drops of ,tabasco1 a glass of claret1 a dessert-spoon of red-currant jelly 7or guava or blackberry jelly71 pepper and salt4 ,when very hot put in about a pound of slices of cold cooked leg of mutton1 lean1 cut into strips4 ,let it simmer for twenty minutes4 ,it is not a bit like venison1 but distinctly good nevertheless4 ,plump and ,wallop4 8,wha'll hire me8 ,wha'll hire me8 ,wha'll hire me8 ,three plumps and a wallop for ae bawbee40 ,this advertisement1 it is alleged1 was addressed to the good people of ,kirkmahoe1 who were so poor that they could not afford to put any meat into their broth4 ,a cobbler invested all his money in buying four sheep shanks1 and when a neighbour wanted to make mutton broth1 for the payment of one halfpenny the cobbler would 8plump0 one of the sheep shanks into the boiling water and give it a 8wallop10 or whisk round4 ,he then wrapped it in a cabbage leaf and took it home4 ,this was called a 8gustin bone10 and was supposed to give a rich 8gust0 to the broth4 ,potatoes and ,point4 ,a ,boer recipe of much the same description was known in early ,transvaal days 7long before the ,war7 as 8,potatoes and ,point40 ,the poor 8,bijwoner0 family was served all round with potatoes1 and a red herring was hung up in the middle of the room4 ,the elders were allowed to rub their potatoes on the herring1 but the youngsters might only point theirs towards the delicacy at the end of a fork4 ,the mere proximity of the highly-flavoured herring was supposed to give the potato a flavour4 ,lots of quite worthy folk gorge themselves periodically and keep their children on the border-line of starvation4 ,a certain exaggeratedly selfish family man of my acquaintance1 who for economic reasons lived somewhere in the wilds of ,west ,kensington1 made it his unholy practice to dine once a month with a couple of boon companions of the same sex at the ,carlton or ,prince's1 and at the conclusion of a remarkable dinner was wont to blurt out3 8,by ,george1 ,i wish ,i could afford to bring the wife and children here60 ,scouse4 ,permit me now to suggest a trial of that very old and famous dish1 ,scouse4 ,it is prepared in the following fashion3 ,get one pound of lean1 dairy-fed pork1 cooked and cold4 ,cut it into half-inch squares2 sprinkle them with flour1 salt1 ,paprika1 and dip them lightly in ,french mustard4 ,put in the ,chafing ,dish three chopped onions1 half a teaspoon of sugar1 one wine-glass of vinegar1 three cloves1 a blade of mace and a bayleaf4 ,cover up and let it simmer1 not boil1 while the quantity of liquid is reduced by one half4 ,add the pork with half a pint of bouillon1 and simmer for another ten minutes4 ,young pork1 like young veal1 is always excellent1 but it can be too young4 ,a sucking pig with lacklustre eye and a lemon in its jaws is pathetic and none too appetising4 ,veal1 in ,england at any rate1 is often tasteless and somewhat dull4 ,not so very long ago1 in ,ireland1 they used to kill newborn calves1 bake them in an oven with potatoes1 and call the dish 8,staggering ,bob40 ,kabobs4 ,kabobs have probably come to us from ,india1 via the ,cape4 ,this is an old ,capetown-,malay recipe which is thoroughly reliable4 ,half a pound of cold veal2 the same of lean ham1 both cut into slices a quarter of an inch thick2 three apples1 and three onions4 ,cut the meat and the vegetables into rounds with a knife or cutter1 about the size of a crown piece4 ,skewer them up on wooden 7or1 if you are a de ,beers shareholder1 on silver7 skewers1 in the following order3 7#a7 a round of veal2 7#b7 a round of apple2 7#c7 a round of ham2 7#d7 around of onion4 ,sprinkle them with pepper1 salt and curry-powder4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with a teacupful of bouillon and a walnut of butter2 simmer steadily for twenty minutes1 then thicken the gravy with a little flour1 and serve either with boiled rice1 or toast1 or both4 ,brigands' ,fowls4 ,cold fowls lend themselves in a hundred ways to the kind attentions of ,chaffinda4 ,mention of quite a few of these must urge the gastronomer to further experiments and discoveries4 ,pollio la ,contrabandista3 this is the way brigands cook1 or ought to cook1 fowls4 ,cut a cold cooked fowl into neat joints4 ,put them into the ,chafing ,dish with four tablespoons of olive oil1 and heat up until the meat is of a light brown colour1 turning the pieces frequently4 ,then keep the flame lower and simmering all the time2 add four tomatoes cut into quarters1 two chopped green chillies1 one shredded ,spanish onion1 one tablespoon of ,worcester sauce1 the same of mushroom ketchup1 and four cloves4 ,let it simmer1 closely covered1 for at least fifteen minutes4 ,it will then prove a most savoury mess4 ,howtowdie4 ,from ,spain to ,bonnie ,scotland6 ,this is how to cook ,howtowdie4 ,cut up a young fowl into handy joints4 ,put them into the ,chafing ,dish with two walnuts of butter1 a cupful of bouillon1 three sprigs of parsley1 three small onions1 salt and pepper4 ,simmer continuously until the bird is tender4 ,when half cooked add another cupful of bouillon to make up for evaporation4 ,when quite cooked put the fowl on to a hot dish1 surround it with poached eggs1 then thicken the gravy in the pan with a tablespoon of flour and a tablespoon of ,worcester sauce2 give it a smart boil up and pour it over the fowl4 ,this ,howtowdie is adapted from an excellent recipe in 8,the ,scottish ,cookery ,book containing guid plain rules for makin' guid plain meats suitable for sma' purses1 big families1 and ,scotch stomachs40 ,roman ,fowl4 ,the preparation of ,roman ,fowl is simplicity itself4 ,pour four tablespoons of olive oil into the ,chafing ,dish with a pinch of salt1 a teaspoon of ,paprika1 three cloves1 and herbs to taste1 but do not overdo the herbs4 ,when the oil is sizzling put in all the limbs of a lightly boiled chicken1 cut up4 ,cook it slowly1 turning the meat so that all the flesh is equally cooked all over4 ,when done it should be a delicate brown4 ,add half a cupful of tomato sauce and the same of bouillon1 also three shredded onions4 ,simmer for eight minutes1 then serve4 ,creamed ,chicken4 ,this is an ,american recipe1 copied verbatim from an ,american ,chafing-,dish cookery book4 ,two cups cold chicken cut into small pieces1 one cup chicken stock1 one cup milk or cream1 two tablespoonfuls of butter1 one heaping tablespoonful of flour1 salt and pepper4 ,cook the butter and the flour together in the ,chafing ,dish2 add the stock and milk and stir until smooth2 put in the chicken1 salt and pepper1 and cook three minutes longer4 ,other times1 other manners4 ,contrast with the severe simplicity of the above the sort of thing that gratified the palates of our forebears4 ,in the fourteenth century1 ,sacchetti says1 a baked goose stuffed with garlic and quinces was esteemed an excellent dish in ,italy1 and when the ,gonfalonier of ,florence entertained a famous doctor he gave him the stomach of a calf1 boiled partridges1 and pickled sardines4 ,old ,samuel ,pepys1 too1 had a nice taste in food as in music1 and other things4 ,his idea of 8a fine dinner0 was to this effect3 8,a dish of marrowbones1 a leg of mutton1 a loin of veal1 a dish of fowl2 three pullets and a dozen of larks1 all in a dish2 a great tart1 a neat's tongue1 a dish of anchovies1 a dish of prawns1 and cheese40 ,for those who are curious in such things it is easy to find quaint recipes in old books4 ,for instance1 if you want to know how to bake a hedgehog in clay--and very good it is too--you have only to read ,albert ,smith's 8,christopher ,tadpole0 and you will know all about it4 ,it is truly said that comparatively few people read ,disraeli's novels nowadays1 but those who are culinarily inclined would do well to turn to the opening chapter of 8,tancred10 where there is a delightful conversation between a grand old matre de bouche1 8,papa ,prevost10 and his pupil1 the eminent chef1 ,leander4 ,the pompous spirit of the culinary artist is delightfully caught and the gastronomic jargon wonderfully reproduced4 ,but gastronomy has never lacked its historians4 ,great painters have come to its aid1 as witness the glowing canvases of ,snyders1 ,teniers1 ,jordaens1 ,ruysdael1 ,jan ,weenix1 ,melchior de ,hondecoeter and ,jan ,fyt4 ,their pictures of still life1 the poulterers' shops1 the heaped baskets of good cheer1 the brilliant lobster1 the callow lemon1 the russet hare1 and the lustrous plumage of the pheasant1 have inspired the hand of the ,masters1 who must have appreciated all such culinary delicacies in order to have painted them with such loving-kindness4 ,yesterday's ,pheasant4 8,if partridge had the woodcock's thighs1 ',twould be the noblest bird that flies2 ,if woodcock had the partridge breast1 ',twould be the best bird ever drest40 ,yesterday's ,pheasant can be made into a most tempting dish by cutting up the remains into convenient chunks1 omitting the bones4 ,put one tablespoon of butter in the ,dish1 add a tablespoon of flour1 and keep on stirring till the mixture is smooth and light brown4 ,add a glass of claret1 a tablespoon of ,worcester sauce1 pepper and salt1 and bring to a boil1 stirring occasionally4 ,now put in the chunks of pheasant1 and simmer for eight minutes4 ,an excellent accompaniment to this is chestnut and celery salad4 ,any game bird may be treated in like manner1 save always the woodcock1 that little epitome of all that is toothsome and delicate4 ,a curious thing about the woodcock is its extraordinarily rapid digestion4 ,a single bird has been known to consume in a night more earthworms than half filled a moderate-sized flowerpot4 ,few people know the different expressions for flocks of birds4 ,here are some of them3 a building of rooks1 a bevy of quails1 a watch of nightingales1 a cast of hawks1 a nide of pheasants1 a muster of peacocks1 a plump of wildfowl1 a flock of geese1 a pack of grouse1 a chattering of choughs1 a stand of plovers1 and a wisp of snipe4 ,a woman ,i know had a very good cook1 who was also a plain cook--or rather1 a plain-spoken cook4 ,she had been in the place many years1 and much was forgiven her4 ,the mistress1 visiting the kitchen1 inspected a turkey1 and remarked that it was a very thin bird4 8,just you wait1 ,m'm1 till ,i've stuffed it with chestnuts10 said the cook1 8you won't know it then4 ,it'll be quite another thing4 ,just like you1 ,m'm1 when you has your di'monds on40 ,i do not advise the fabrication of elaborate entres in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,they can be and have been done1 but ,i mistrust them and find ample scope for ingenuity1 inventiveness1 and novelty in the cates ,i have already described1 without venturing into the fields of fancy4 ,vol-au-,vent1 for instance1 or ,brains la ,poulette1 or ,spanish ,cream ,pudding are all within the range of feasibility1 but ,i leave the recipes to those less timorous than myself4 ,in fact1 in this case1 ,i am at one with the waiter in the 8,bab ,ballads0 who hurled the most awful threat in culinary literature at his flighty sweetheart3 8,flirtez toujours1 ma belle1 si tu oses1 ,je me vengerai ainsi1 ma chre3 ,je lui dirai d'quoi on compose ,vol-au-,vent la ,financire60 ,the good things of this life are mostly plain and wholesome 7with a few delightful exceptions71 and we can all qualify to live in ,bengodi1 ,boccaccio's country of content1 where they tie up the vines with sausages1 where you may buy a fat goose for a penny1 and have the giblets thrown in into the bargain4 ,in this place there is a mountain of ,parmesan cheese1 and the people's employment is making cheese-cakes and macaroons4 ,there is also a river which runs ,malmsey wine of the very best quality4 ,there are no cheap excursions to ,bengodi4 ,we have to tramp there on foot--and earn our bread on the road as we travel thither4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,vi ,,vegetables ,,and ,,salads 8,will a man give a penny to fill his belly with hay8 ,or can you persuade the turtle-dove to live upon carrion like the crow80 ,,john ,,bunyan 78,pilgrim's ,progress074 ,the first vegetarian was probably ,nebuchadnezzar1 and he has many followers4 ,with the utmost love and respect for all vegetables1 without exception1 ,i refuse to accept them as the staff of life1 or indeed as anything more than a delicious aid thereto4 ,it is possible that the internal economy of certain very worthy folk may be more easily conducted on a vegetarian basis1 and indeed every man is at liberty to feed as suits him best2 but as a matter of preference1 predilection and experience1 ,i decline to follow his example4 ,if they are content to let me go my way unmolested1 ,i have no desire to interfere with their tastes4 ,but no proselytising1 please6 ,here in ,england1 although we shine in our roasts1 our beef1 our chops1 and maybe a few other trifles1 we are woefully and culpably ignorant of vegetable cookery4 ,the average ,british cook has but one idea with vegetables4 ,she cooks them in water1 with lumps of coarse soda1 which she thinks makes them soft and keeps their colour4 ,as a matter of fact1 this process1 especially the soda1 practically destroys their health-giving properties4 ,vegetables want the kindliest care1 the most delicate handling1 the most knowledgeable treatment4 ,otherwise they become mere parodies of their better selves4 ,what could be more terrible1 more depressing1 than the usual slab of wet cabbage doled out at the average ,london restaurant8 ,it is an insult to the cabbage1 to the guest1 and to the ,art of ,cookery4 ,and it is so easy to cook it decently--even in a ,chafing ,dish4 ,again1 the average ,british household knows and uses only a very limited range of vegetables1 ignoring1 wilfully or otherwise1 scores of edible delights1 easily grown and easily cooked1 but with the inbred laziness of crass conservatism1 totally overlooked1 because1 forsooth1 8the greengrocer does not keep it60 ,the greengrocer1 on the other hand1 scorns the inquirer after such strange green meats1 because 8they are never asked for02 and so1 between the two1 we are relegated to the same dull round of vegetable monotony4 ,household cookery knows nothing of the ,aubergine1 or ,egg-plant1 of which there are fourteen edible varieties1 most of which can easily be grown in this country1 although the rich purple kinds are best suited to our climate4 ,then there is ,salsify1 which is amenable to a dozen different treatments2 as the vegetable oyster it is duly honoured in ,america1 but we know it not4 ,the ,good ,king ,harry is only known in ,lincolnshire4 ,the leaves served as cabbage are excellent1 and the tender young shoots are as delicate as asparagus4 ,the ,cardoon1 ,scornzonera1 ,celeriac1 ,chicory1 ,buck's ,horn1 ,chervil1 ,jew's ,mallow1 ,lovage1 ,purslane1 ,rampion1 ,scurvy-,grass and ,valerian1 are only a selection from a list thrice as long4 ,it is useless1 however1 to lift up one thin quavering voice of protest in a wilderness of deaf greengrocers4 ,i must e'en deal with the common vegetables of commerce1 others being unprocurable1 and their cultivation a counsel of perfection4 ,one naturally begins with potatoes1 though the reason of their position in the hierarchy of the garden is occult4 ,sir ,walter ,raleigh1 good man and true1 has much to answer for4 ,tobacco and potatoes6 ,i believe it to be a fact that throughout the length and breadth of ,ireland there is no memorial to ,raleigh4 ,this seems a distinct omission4 ,but then1 neither is there a statue to ,lord ,verulam6 ,between the primitive tuber1 baked in the ashes1 and ,pommes la ,rjane1 there lies the whole gamut of culinary ingenuity4 ,they are the extremes of sophistication and the opposite4 ,but it must suffice here to give a few only of the simplest recipes1 well within ,chaffinda's modest capability1 and in their very ingenuousness fit alike for the delectation of ,prince or ,pauper4 ,mary's ,potatoes4 ,the first method is called ,mary's ,potatoes for want of a better name4 ,slice up half a dozen cold cooked potatoes4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with a walnut of butter and a cupful of milk2 let them simmer for five minutes1 then add the juice of half a lemon1 a teaspoon of chopped parsley1 pepper and salt4 ,simmer for five minutes more4 ,potato ,uglies4 ,cut up half a dozen cold cooked potatoes into quarter-inch slices4 ,put four slices of fat bacon into the ,chafing ,dish1 and hot up until the fat begins to smoke2 then drop in the potatoes1 add pepper and salt1 and cook for five minutes4 ,drain before serving4 ,sala's ,potatoes4 ,cut four potatoes in slices as large as a halfpenny1 but twice as thick4 ,put two tablespoonsful of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 and a dozen delicate little onions cut into dice4 ,hot up the onions and butter till the former turn a golden brown1 then add the potatoes and a teaspoon of chopped parsley1 salt1 pepper1 and a squeeze of lemon4 ,keep stirring1 and when the onions are deep yellow1 which should be in about eight minutes1 the dish is ready4 ,fried ,potatoes4 ,boil half a dozen potatoes in their skins4 ,peel them when hot1 cut them in quarters1 roll them in bread-crumbs1 and then fry them for seven minutes in two tablespoons of sizzling butter4 ,sprinkle chopped parsley on them before serving4 ,the tomato or love-apple is a perennial joy to the eye1 whether cooked or uncooked1 ripe or unripe4 ,its form and colour are alike exquisite1 and its flavour altogether a thing apart4 ,our grandfathers knew little or nothing about it1 apart from sauce1 and it has been left to our generation fully to appreciate its possibilities4 ,it is the more strange because it has been a staple article of food in mid and southern ,europe since time immemorial4 ,it has even been suggested that ,eve's apple1 ,paris' apple1 ,nausicaa's apple1 and the apples of ,hesperides were all really tomatoes6 ,as pommes d'amour1 pomi di mori1 ,liebespfel1 ,paradiespfel1 or tomatoes1 they are nowadays honoured and appreciated by all right lovers of the good things of the earth4 ,they are both fruit and vegetable1 and it is very difficult to spoil them in cooking4 ,they are best of all when grilled as an accompaniment to chops 7,mr4 ,pickwick1 it will be remembered1 enjoyed them in the form of sauce71 but the following is a very simple and honest way of preparing them4 ,fried ,tomatoes4 ,cut three tomatoes in halves4 ,pepper and salt them and coat the cut surfaces with bread-crumbs4 ,put two tablespoons of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 and when sizzling add the tomatoes and cook them thoroughly for eight minutes4 ,the ,jerusalem artichoke should not be devoted solely to soup4 ,it is an excellent adjunct to meats1 and fully repays a little careful attention4 ,fried ,artichoke ,chips4 ,wash and peel the outer skin of a pound of artichokes1 then with a very sharp knife peel them into ribbons 7as one would peel an apple72 then put them lightly in a cloth to dry4 ,hot up two tablespoons of olive oil in the ,chafer to smoking-point4 ,put in the artichokes1 letting them fry until they rustle when stirred with a fork4 ,pour off the oil and strain them4 ,sprinkle with salt and pepper4 ,braised ,artichokes4 ,wash and peel a pound of artichokes and put them aside in a basin of cold water4 ,melt a walnut of butter in the ,chafing ,dish2 add the artichokes after drying them well4 ,let them brown well in the butter2 add pepper and salt and stir them frequently1 letting them simmer for twelve minutes4 ,spinach ,pure4 ,have your spinach thoroughly well washed in several waters till it is perfectly clean4 ,boil a pint of water in the ,chafing ,dish1 salt it and put in the spinach4 ,boil it for ten minutes4 ,take out the spinach and strain it4 ,pour cold water over it to take away the bitter taste2 strain again4 ,put a walnut of butter in the dish1 add the spinach and half a cupful of milk4 ,mix up well with a wooden spoon4 ,heat for five minutes4 ,there are about twenty-five different kinds of edible mushrooms4 ,the popular test of peeling is unreliable1 because some poisonous mushrooms peel easily1 and some harmless kinds do not4 ,an authority on mushrooms 7,mr4 ,e4 ,kay ,robinson7 says3 8,if a mushroom of any kind which has been gathered from an open space is brittle and compact in texture1 and not brightly coloured1 nor peculiar in taste or unpleasant in smell1 and neither exudes a milky juice when bruised1 nor changes colour when exposed to the air1 you may eat it without fear40 ,consequently1 when you go mushroom-gathering you must bear in mind nearly as many things as when you address your ball on the tee4 ,i always buy my mushrooms1 and go to a good shop2 then1 ,i think1 you are fairly safe4 ,the onion is a sure poison detector4 ,put an onion in a dish of mushrooms4 ,if it does not change colour the mushrooms are all right4 ,if it blushes black with shame at its contiguity1 they are all wrong4 ,a silver spoon acts in the same way and gets black in contact with toadstools or the like4 ,verily1 evil communications corrupt good manners--even in onions4 ,stewed ,mushrooms4 ,flood the ,chafing ,dish with really good olive oil4 ,put in a teaspoonful of ,paprika and a pinch of salt4 ,drop in the mushrooms1 after having stalked and peeled them1 black part uppermost4 ,cover up1 and listen to the appetising sizzling for seven minutes4 ,they should then be done to a turn4 ,mushrooms used to be dried1 powdered1 and used as a flavouring in the eighteenth century4 ,cook-books of that period speak of the condiment as 8,cook's ,snuff40 ,the great and justly esteemed ,grimod de la ,reynire said that it ought always to be on the dining-table together with pepper and salt4 ,here is a hint for the modern purveyors of table delicacies4 ,in ,sir ,henry ,layard's ,essay on 8,renaissance ,cookery10 he says3 8,amongst vegetables1 the thistle 7,cardo7 was esteemed a delicacy1 and was generally served with fruit at the end of the dinner4 ,the thorny thistles with well-grown white stalks are the best40 ,the ,cardo includes the artichoke1 but that the name was usually applied to the common thistle is shown by the quaint remark of ,romoli in his 8,singolare ,dottrina10 that 8it should not be eaten with milk1 which it has the property of curdling1 and consequently the process would take place in your stomach1 but it should be eaten with pepper1 which does not generate wind1 and clears the liver2 and such is the reason why donkeys1 who eat largely of this1 have better stomachs than men40 ,dr4 ,thudichum1 an eminent authority on dietetics1 does not agree with these conclusions1 which are nevertheless illuminating1 and do not detract from the merits of the nettle as a food-stuff4 ,welsh ,leeks4 ,boil half a dozen leeks in a pint of water4 ,drain them well1 and cut each leek into two-inch lengths2 squeeze a lemon over them1 pepper and salt them well4 ,set them aside4 ,make half a dozen crotons of toast and put the leeks on them4 ,replace them in the ,chafing ,dish1 pouring over each croton a liberal dose of ,sauce ,robert4 ,heat up and serve on a very hot plate4 ,sauce ,robert 7,escoffier brand7 can be bought ready made at the ,stores4 ,french ,beans4 ,boil a pound of shredded beans till tender1 and then drain them well4 ,melt two tablespoons of butter in the ,chafing ,dish and stir into it a small dessert-spoon of flour4 ,keep these simmering1 and shake them about till they are lightly browned2 add salt and pepper and a cup of milk4 ,just before serving1 add the yolks of two eggs1 slightly beaten1 and a squeeze of lemon4 ,stir all up thoroughly and beat up to just below boiling-point4 ,broad ,beans4 ,shell and wash in cold water one pint of broad beans4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish and boil them with a sprinkling of salt2 when nearly soft strain them1 and then replace them in the dish with a tumbler of bouillon1 a little chopped parsley1 and a lump of sugar4 ,cook them slowly until they are quite tender4 ,beat up the yolk of an egg and a wine-glass of milk2 add both to the beans with pepper and salt1 and beat up thoroughly to just below boiling-point4 ,italian ,broad ,beans4 ,shell a pint of fresh young broad beans and put them aside in a dish of cold water4 ,fill the ,chafing ,dish with nearly two pints of water1 add a thick slice of cooked ham1 a stick of celery1 a bunch of parsley1 three cloves1 twenty peppercorns1 and a bay leaf4 ,boil all this for seven minutes1 then remove the ham1 vegetables1 and spices1 and put in the beans4 ,when they are quite tender1 take them out1 strain them1 put them back in the dish2 add a tablespoon of butter1 and hot them up again for three or four minutes before serving4 ,brussels ,sprouts4 ,place a pint of small ,brussels sprouts in the ,chafing ,dish with two pints of boiling water1 slightly salted4 ,boil for ten minutes2 take out the sprouts1 drain them and put them aside to keep hot4 ,then make the following sauce in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,two tablespoons of butter melted1 one tablespoon flour1 pepper and salt1 and sufficient bouillon to make the mixture of the consistency of thick cream4 ,heat this to boiling1 stirring it well4 ,just before serving1 add the juice of a whole lemon4 ,pour the sauce over the hot sprouts1 and serve very quickly4 ,both this and the previous recipe are adapted from a most excellent book on the cooking of vegetables3 8,leaves from our ,tuscan ,garden10 by ,janet ,ross4 ,haricot ,beans4 ,put a pint of young green shelled haricot beans into the ,chafing ,dish with two pints of boiling water4 ,when half cooked add salt and pepper and a tablespoon of butter4 ,take out the beans1 drain them1 and replace them in the dish with another tablespoon of butter1 a little chopped parsley1 more salt and pepper and a squeeze of lemon4 ,toss them about well in the ,chafing ,dish and hot up for eight minutes4 ,fried ,parsley4 ,indispensable for flavourings4 ,wash the parsley thoroughly1 pick off the stalks1 leaving the large heads4 ,dry it very carefully as1 if it is left at all damp1 it will never become crisp4 ,put the parsley in the ,chafing ,dish with a tablespoon of olive oil or butter4 ,as soon as the oil or butter ceases bubbling1 take out the parsley and let it dry on a piece of paper4 ,the parsley should remain quite green2 if it is brownish it is a sign that it has been fried too long4 ,green ,peas4 ,a pint of shelled peas1 a tablespoon of butter1 pepper and salt1 and a good squeeze of lemon2 put all these in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,add a cupful of milk and hot up for ten minutes1 then strain and serve4 ,avoid mint1 green or otherwise4 ,chestnuts4 ,shell a score of chestnuts1 cover them in the ,chafing ,dish with boiling water1 and in four minutes take them out and remove the skins4 ,return them to the boiling water1 add a cup of milk1 pepper and salt1 and simmer until quite tender but not soft4 8,behold1 the earth hath roots2 ,the bounteous housewife ,nature1 on each bush ,lays her full mess before you40--,timon of ,athens4 ,it has been made plain1 ,i trust1 that it is not necessary to rely solely on the damp-sodden vegetables of the pre-historic cuisine4 ,it is just as easy to cook them nicely as otherwise1 and a deal more satisfactory4 ,the bounteous housewife ,nature overwhelms us with her treasures of root and sap1 and it seems almost an outrage to neglect the opportunities so lavishly offered to us4 ,i have just described a score or so of the plainer methods of cooking vegetables1 simply as an indication of their possibilities1 but the enterprising ,chafer will find as he progresses in the art 7and ,chafing grows upon one like any other hobby7 that there are dozens of others which lend themselves readily to his1 or her1 deft manipulation4 ,the grandfather of ,charles ,darwin was a poet of parts1 and in his 8,phytologica0 he says3 8,oft in each month1 poetic ,tighe6 be thine ,to dish green broccoli with savoury chine2 ,oft down thy tuneful throat be thine to cram ,the snow-white cauliflower with fowl and ham60 ,this is wise advice1 because the green broccoli is far better than the white4 ,there are many ,american vegetables which may be cooked without a twang4 ,they are all in tins or bottles1 bearing plain directions4 ,among others ,i can speak from personal experience of ,sugar ,corn1 ,green ,corn1 ,oyster ,corn1 ,boston ,beans1 ,lima ,beans1 and ,succotash4 ,this last is a meal in itself1 and of most excellent flavour and convenience4 ,green corn1 too1 reminds those who know the ,south ,african mealie in all its toothsomeness1 of many a hearty supper of ,kaffir mealies roasted in the embers of a camp fire1 or even in that most primitive of ovens1 an ant-heap1 which1 believe it or not as you will1 turns out better cooked meats than some of your very patent1 very modern1 very 8gadgetty0 kitchen ranges1 although not better1 ,i ween1 than my chaste ,chaffinda4 ,from vegetables to salads is but one step4 ,i do not see any valid reason for apologising for the inclusion of salads in a ,chafing-,dish book4 ,they are not cooked in a ,chafing ,dish1 it is true1 but it is part of my religion that no meal is complete without a salad1 green for choice1 but anyhow a salad4 ,i do not insist on salad for breakfast1 although on a blazing hot ,july day1 after a swim or a tramp1 or both1 ,i can imagine worse things than an omelette1 some kidneys and bacon1 and a slice of real ham1 and a green salad to top up with4 ,but no dinner is really a dinner without a salad1 and by that ,i do not mean three scraggy lettuce leaves1 soused in vinegar1 which as ,salade de saison is the usual accompaniment to that disastrous hen1 ,poulet au cresson1 which is a centipede as to legs and has no breast or liver wing4 ,as this screed is1 after all1 a plain record of personal likes and dislikes1 ,i see no reason for concealing the fact that ,i have no use whatever1 no manner of use in the wide wide world1 for mayonnaise with salad4 ,the ,americans swear by it2 ,i swear at it4 ,my salad mixture1 which goes with everything--absolutely everything--is simplicity itself4 ,eccolo6 ,salad ,mixture4 ,into a large bowl put half a teaspoon of salt1 same of ,paprika1 a dash of black pepper1 freshly ground by a hand-mill1 and a teaspoon of made ,english mustard4 ,mix them up well4 ,now add very gradually the very best quality of olive oil1 almost drop by drop1 to the quantity of three tablespoons1 mixing all the time until the ingredients assume the consistency of cream2 now thin this with one tablespoon of good wine vinegar1 and amalgamate thoroughly4 ,that is all ,i use4 ,now and again1 by way of extra titillation of the jaded palate1 you may add half a tablespoon of ,tarragon vinegar1 herbs to taste1 ,spring onions1 chives1 ,french mustard1 olives 7,french only71 hard-boiled eggs1 dandelion leaves1 nasturtium leaves1 and celery salt4 ,but there are half a dozen rules which ,i would seriously enjoin the salad mixer to bear in mind4 ,only use a wooden spoon and fork for mixing4 ,never cut a lettuce2 always break it with the fingers4 ,dry the lettuce thoroughly in a serviette or in a salad-basket before breaking4 ,make the salad ten minutes before eating it4 ,neither more nor less4 ,do not bother about garnishing the top of a salad2 see the ingredients are well mixed4 ,the decoration will look after itself and be much more artistic if left natural than if fussed into geometrical designs4 ,make your mixture proportionate to your salad4 ,this is a matter of intuition and experience combined4 ,the test of right mixing is that no fluid should remain at the bottom of the bowl when finally mixed4 ,the 8fatiguing0 or turning over and over1 that is1 the actual mixing of the salad1 should be very thoroughly done for just as long as is bearable to the verge of impatience4 ,rub a crust of bread with garlic or onion1 put it in the bottom of the bowl and take it out just before serving4 ,this is a chapon4 ,the true salad artist will never add any second dose of any ingredient during the process of mixing the sauce4 ,i was once present at a salad duel between an eminent ,belgian violoncellist and a ,british banker4 ,the former was an artist1 the latter a well-meaning amateur4 ,they used the same cruet-stand1 and during the mixing process the banker politely pushed the oil and vinegar across to the ,belgian1 who bowed and said3 8,thanks4 ,i never add60 ,the banker appreciated the rebuke and retired from the contest4 ,both salads were excellent4 ,the old salad-proverb about the oil-spendthrift1 the vinegar-miser1 and all the rest of it1 is too old to quote1 but it expresses a truism aptly enough4 ,three to one is1 according to my view1 a fair proportion of oil to vinegar1 but this1 as indeed most things in this so-called twentieth century of ours1 is only a matter of individual taste1 and ,i have no desire to suggest that my opinion should be given the force of law4 ,i have known a salad enthusiast who coated each leaf of lettuce with oil on a camel's-hair brush1 but this ,i think is an exaggeration of artistry4 ,on the other hand1 the wild stirring of dollops of the four condiments in the salad spoon1 which is then emptied vaguely into the salad1 is childish and inefficient4 ,the ,italians have a proverb that runs3 8,l'insalata non buon' ne bella ,ove non la pimpinella40 ,the pimpernel is our burnet4 ,it is quite unnecessary to give full recipes for all the following salads4 ,i have already indicated the mixture1 and the choice of ingredients need only be hinted at4 ,lettuce should be young1 fresh1 and crisp4 ,there are many varieties1 the most delicate of which perhaps is the ,romaine4 ,endive is good when quite young4 ,it should be very light in colour4 ,do not mix it with lettuce4 ,a few dandelion leaves are quite permissible4 ,chicory makes an excellent salad1 and radishes mix well with it4 ,celery and ,parmesan cheese go well together4 ,the celery must be cut into half-inch pieces4 ,cauliflower1 cooked and cold1 mixed with celery1 or a very few slices of cold cooked carrot1 is cool and pleasant4 ,tomatoes and lettuce go well together1 and onions are a good addition4 ,potato salad requires firm round little potatoes cooked1 cold1 and cut into slices4 ,the best kind is known as ,hamburg ,potatoes1 and they may be had at the ,german ,delikatessen shops4 ,avoid anchovies and olives with potato salad1 but encourage chives and a sprinkling of cheese4 ,celeriac4 ,this is a variety of celery1 sometimes known as ,dutch celery1 a tuber which has a quite peculiar and characteristic flavour4 ,it needs no addition whatever1 and is an excellent accompaniment to all meats4 ,cut it in slices1 after boiling it for twelve minutes1 and mix carefully with plenty of liquid4 ,mashed ,potato ,salad4 ,beat up ordinary mashed potatoes with a little lukewarm weak stock or warm water instead of milk1 and no butter4 ,then dress them with a little chopped chive1 oil and vinegar1 pepper and salt4 ,this can be endlessly varied with chopped hard-boiled eggs1 beetroot1 cucumbers1 anchovies1 c4 ,this salad comes from that most excellent compendium of quaint conceits1 8,more ,potpourri from a ,surrey ,garden10 by ,mrs4 ,c4 ,w4 ,earle4 ,old-fashioned salads1 according to a seventeenth-century cook-book1 were more diversified than ours4 ,among the ingredients of 8,grand ,sallets of divers compounds0 were broom buds1 pickled mushrooms1 pickled oysters1 blew figs1 ,virginia potato1 caperons1 crucifix pease1 sage1 mint1 balm1 burnet1 violet leaves1 red coleworts1 raisins of the sun1 charvel and ellicksander buds4 ,some of these we know under other names1 but 8blew figs0 and 8ellicksander buds0 are untraceable4 ,the list has a ,rabelaisian smack1 and gives one some idea of the crude admixture of flavourings which was acceptable to our forebears4 ,in a very charming old book1 8,travels in ,england in #agjb10 by ,c4 ,p4 ,moritz1 a ,prussian clergyman1 the following passage seems quotable3 8,an ,english dinner generally consists of a piece of half-boiled1 or half-roasted1 meat2 and a few cabbage leaves boiled in plain water2 on which they pour a sauce made of flour and butter4 ,this1 ,i assure you1 is the usual method of dressing vegetables in ,england4 ,the slices of bread and butter which they give you with your tea are as thin as poppy leaves4 ,but there is another kind of bread and butter usually eaten with tea1 which is toasted by the fire1 and is incomparably good4 ,you take one slice after the other1 and hold it to the fire on a fork till the butter is melted1 so that it penetrates a number of slices at once2 this is called toast40 ,another part of the same book describes the kitchen in a country inn1 and gives a picture which seems to describe some old ,dutch interior4 8,i now1 for the first time1 found myself in one of these kitchens which ,i had so often read of in ,fielding's fine novels2 and which certainly give one1 on the whole1 a very accurate idea of ,english manners4 ,the chimney1 in this kitchen1 where they were roasting and boiling1 seemed to be taken off from the rest of the room1 and enclosed by a wooden partition1 the rest of the apartment was made use of as a sitting and eating room4 ,all round on the sides were shelves with pewter dishes and plates1 and the ceiling was well stored with provisions of various kinds1 such as sugar-loaves1 black puddings1 hams1 sausages1 flitches of bacon1 c40 ,a modern ,dr4 ,syntax in search of the picturesque would vainly nowadays look for anything approaching this homely simplicity in any ,english hostelry4 ,the modern tendency seems all directed towards spurious finery1 meretricious decoration1 and uncomfortable ,new ,art4 ,the old inns are neglected1 and the new hotels merely vulgarly gorgeous4 ,the food is ambitious and basely imitative of bad ,french models4 ,the advent of the ubiquitous motor car on old country roads1 away from the railways1 may in time improve matters1 and revive1 to a certain extent1 the extinct glories of the old coaching inns2 but as yet there is little1 if any1 improvement to be marked4 ,in the meanwhile1 ,i would suggest that every travelling motor car be provided with a ,chafing ,dish1 and thus mitigate or improve the dull pretentious meals which the country hotel proprietor thinks proper to provide4 ,the ,chafing ,dish and the motor car seem made for one another4 ,will somebody try the combination8 ,there are just a few more salads which ,i should like to recommend1 premising1 however1 that they are not altogether orthodox4 ,by this ,i mean that they are not wholly composed of greenstuffs1 but require the addition of extraneous appetisers4 ,walnuts and ,green ,peas4 ,boil and blanch a dozen walnuts2 break them in halves1 mix them with a pint of green peas1 cooked and cold1 and toss them about in a small quantity of dressing4 ,sprouts and ,chestnuts4 ,boil and skin a dozen chestnuts4 ,break them up and mix with a pint of cold cooked ,brussels sprouts4 ,toss them in a small amount of mixture4 ,jardinire4 ,almost any cold cooked vegetables4 ,for choice1 use equal portions of sliced potatoes1 green peas1 carrots1 beans1 celery1 tomatoes1 and onions4 ,add plenty of dressing4 ,cucumbers and ,anchovies4 ,wash1 scrape and dry the anchovies4 ,chop them up4 ,have the cucumber thinly sliced and thoroughly drained2 plenty of salt1 and little mixture4 ,sprinkle the anchovies over the sliced cucumber4 ,cauliflower and ,bacon4 ,dry the cauliflower and break up into small pieces1 using all the flower and very little stalk or green4 ,cut a couple of slices of bacon into dice1 sprinkle it about in the cauliflower1 and use plenty of dressing4 ,bread ,salad4 ,cut three slices of stale bread 7crumb only7 into half-inch squares2 same amount of sliced cold cooked potatoes2 three tomatoes in quarters1 one onion2 toss all well together with a good deal of dressing4 ,this sounds very simple1 but as ,sam ,weller's pieman said1 8,it's the seasoning as does it40 ,lest ,i be thought quite unspeakably impossible in these last recipes1 let me assure the worthy sceptics that they are in no wise guess-work1 but one and all duly approved1 and that ,i have merely taken the trouble to collate them and set them down here4 ,they are excellent and original4 ,i think that many folks will be grateful for them4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,vii ,,eggs ,,and ,,savouries 8,the vulgar boil1 the learned roast an egg40 ,,pope4 ,in the name of the profit3 ,eggs6 ,although farming in ,england may spell ruin1 poultry almost always pays1 and if intelligently and economically managed1 one rarely hears of the failure of a poultry-farm4 ,we import a vast number of millions of eggs annually 7many of which come to a deservedly unrighteous end in villainous omelettes71 but it would be easy1 with capital1 initiative1 and incubators1 to produce them one and all in ,great ,britain and make the egg trade a national industry4 ,a couple of generations ago1 when any one walked gingerly in the street1 he or she was said to be going at an 8egg-trot10 because it reminded one of a good housewife riding to market at a jog-trot pace with eggs in her panniers4 ,let us therefore approach the subject of eggs at an 8egg-trot40 ,a good egg is never bad4 ,that is not such an inept truism as it looks4 ,a good egg is unspoilable1 even by the worst cook4 ,there are over four hundred and fifty ways of cooking eggs1 each of which has some peculiar excellence denied to the others4 ,you cannot even make an omelette without breaking eggs1 and most people find breakfast almost impossible without the regulation hen-fruit4 ,to teach one's grandmother how to suck eggs is a futile labour partaking of juvenile presumption1 but it is at least easier than persuading the average cook that the fried egg of commerce is only one out of scores of simple breakfast egg-dishes4 8,there is reason in roasting eggs40 ,even the most trivial culinary conjuring trick has some good motive for being performed in one way rather than in another4 ,when wood fires were usual it was more common to roast eggs than to boil them1 and great care was required to prevent their being 8ill-roasted1 all on one side10 as ,touchstone says in the play4 ,which is an additional reason for keeping strictly to the formula4 ,eggs are ticklish things to monkey with1 and it is much easier to break them than to make them4 ,learned disquisitions have before now been written on 8,how to boil an egg40 ,it is not in my province to touch on that subject4 ,the votary of the ,chafing ,dish may be presumed to have enough common sense to come in out of the rain1 and to be able to boil an egg4 ,it is not much to ask4 ,pope1 by the way1 thought it vulgar to boil an egg1 but then we are all vulgar nowadays--and glory in it4 ,neither do ,i propose to expatiate upon egg-flip1 egg-nog1 and kindred 8dulceties40 ,i will give a few plain straightforward recipes for eggs in the ,chafing ,dish1 and leave egg-eccentricities to my betters4 ,i have only to premise that there is but one kind of egg4 ,the ,best4 ,real new-laid eggs are reliable friends4 ,all others are base impostors6 ,poached ,eggs4 ,the ,chafing ,dish should be more than half full of boiling water4 ,break each egg separately into a saucer and slip it steadily and dexterously into the ,chafing ,dish4 ,light the lamp1 cover up the water and eggs1 and put the dish over the lower hot-water pan1 which should have in it a pint of hot water4 ,let it heat until the whites of the eggs are set2 then remove the eggs from the pan with the special flat implement ad hoc4 ,put the eggs on rounds of toast4 ,sprinkle them with pepper1 salt and parsley1 and put a tiny piece of butter on top of each egg4 ,scrambled ,eggs4 ,beat up three eggs1 whites and yolks1 in a bowl1 and add a pinch of salt4 ,put a good tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 over a pan of hot water4 ,when the butter sizzles1 pour in the eggs1 and stir with a wooden spoon very briskly for a minute and a half to two minutes1 keeping the eggs from adhering to the sides and bottom of the ,dish4 ,have rounds of toast ready1 and pour the eggs on to them4 ,dust them with ,paprika and parsley4 ,it is easy and pleasant to vary plain scrambled eggs with a dozen odds and ends4 ,asparagus tips1 for instance1 bacon dice1 tiny slicelets of ham1 green peas1 thin rounds of ,brunswick sausage1 broad beans1 chicken livers1 button mushrooms1 tomatoes1 or chopped nasturtium leaves4 ,all these should be added1 cooked of course1 towards the end of the stirring operation1 and just before serving4 ,many other ingredients might be suggested1 but the ingenious innovator will be able to think these out for himself1 and he can always christen his invention scrambled eggs la quelque chose to please his own fancy and flatter his friends4 ,omelettes4 ,an omelette should not be too lightly undertaken4 ,there are few things more tricky1 more unreliable1 more human1 in a sense1 than an omelette4 ,you may make it a dozen times with perfect success4 ,it will be light1 frothy1 ethereal1 almost gossamer-like in its impalpable fairyhood4 ,the thirteenth time you proceed on precisely the same lines1 use the same material1 and in every way follow the same formula1 and the result is chaos4 ,if there be a sex in cookery1 omelettes must be essentially feminine4 ,this is how to make an omelette4 ,beat three eggs lightly with two tablespoons of milk1 a little salt and pepper4 ,put one tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish over the hot-water pan1 and when sizzling hot1 pour in the eggs4 ,you must hold the dish in the left hand1 and rapidly scrape away with a knife the cooked egg where it seems to adhere1 letting the liquid portion follow the knife4 ,it should be cooked in less than fifty seconds if the water beneath it is boiling4 ,then gently1 but firmly1 slip the knife under the left-hand edge of the omelette and fold it over rapidly and neatly to the side of the dish opposite the handle4 ,have a very hot plate ready2 reverse it on to the dish1 turn the latter over the former quickly1 and the omelette will 7or should7 rest on the plate4 ,of course all this sounds very easy1 but it needs knack and practice--lots of both4 ,when entirely successful1 however1 it is most gratifying and self-flattering4 ,you feel a real cook at last1 and look upon ,ude1 ,carme1 ,francatelli1 and the other great names of history as brothers4 ,all ,chafers go through that pleasant period when all goes right and nothing goes wrong4 ,sometimes it lasts quite a while2 but at last1 sooner or later1 there comes a moment when we know we feel that we know how little we know4 ,as at golf1 when we never play so well as during our first month1 even so is it with ,chaffinda4 ,the testing of eggs should not rightly be one of the ,chafer's duties4 ,he should be able to rely on his purveyor4 ,the best eggs ,i ever had in ,london were provided by an old landlady who told me that she got them twice a week from the country4 ,when ,i asked her what county they came from1 she said1 8,they come all the way from ,clapham ,junction1 sir60 ,anyhow1 they were remarkably good1 and ,i have been served with less reliable ones in country farmhouses4 ,this was possibly for the same reason that one can rarely get fish at the seaside until the ,london train comes in4 ,eggs en ,cocotte4 ,you must provide some of those dear little fireproof china cups especially made for the purpose4 ,butter these little cups4 ,put two teaspoonsful of cream into each4 ,then break very carefully an egg into each4 ,dust with pepper1 salt1 and parsley4 ,stand these cups in the ,chafing ,dish with enough boiling water to come half-way up the cups4 ,have the lower pan full of hot water underneath4 ,boil up gently till the eggs are just set4 ,serve in the cups very hot1 taking care in hauling them out of the ,chafing ,dish as they are very easily dropped4 ,lady ,effingham's ,eggs4 ,put two slices of ,gruyre cheese 7not very thin7 in the ,chafing ,dish with a tablespoon of butter4 ,break two eggs in a saucer and slide them on to the cheese2 sprinkle with salt and ,paprika and let it simmer 7over the hot-water pan7 till the eggs are set4 ,serve with fingers of toast4 ,newmarket ,eggs4 ,put a tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish4 ,when it sizzles add an onion cut into slices2 let it get well browned4 ,then throw in three fair-sized potatoes in slices4 ,pour over these the well-beaten yolks of two eggs1 adding salt and pepper4 ,heat up to boiling-point4 ,serve with toast4 ,kempton ,eggs4 ,cut into slices three hard-boiled eggs and one onion2 put the latter only in the ,chafing ,dish with a tablespoon of butter4 ,stir it1 and fry the onion to a light brown1 then sprinkle in half a tablespoon of flour1 and add two tablespoons of milk1 pepper and salt4 ,boil up and then add the eggs2 serve at once with grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,anchovy ,eggs4 ,place a tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish1 add half a teaspoon of dry mustard1 two tablespoons of tomato sauce1 one of ,worcester sauce1 and one of mushroom ketchup4 ,let it simmer1 and then drop in four hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters1 salted and peppered4 ,prepare four rounds of toast1 spread them with good anchovy paste1 or1 better still1 with ,patum ,peperium1 and put the eggs on the toast1 pouring over them the mixture4 ,this a remarkably good dish after a dance in the country and a ten-mile drive home4 ,if the proper preparations are made1 it can be turned out in five minutes in the billiard-room1 and it picks one up in a thoroughly businesslike and efficient manner4 ,those cold winter drives after a busy night's dancing1 especially if the supper was good and frequent1 demand a powerful restorative4 ,now come we to the great question of ,welsh ,rabbit4 ,i venture to doubt whether ,rarebit is defensible1 and ,i have read shoals of arguments for and against4 ,anyhow1 my kind is a ,rabbit1 and it tastes as nice--or nicer4 ,a small boy walking across a common with his mother espied a bunny4 8,look1 mother1 there goes a rabbit60 8,nonsense1 my boy1 it must have been imagination40 8,mother1 is imagination white behind80 ,there is no imagination about a ,welsh ,rabbit4 ,it is sternly real4 ,but not1 ,i think1 quite as indigestible as generally supposed1 especially if it be liberally dosed with ,paprika1 which ,i find to be marvellously digestive4 ,a well-made ,rabbit should be suave in flavour1 not harsh1 stringy1 or pungent4 ,there should be a silky sensation of sensuous softness1 and1 above all things1 it should not tickle the palate4 ,i fear that ,i am led to dogmatise on the rabbit1 and to ferret out my own didactic ideas on the subject1 but if my rabbit be carefully concocted and intelligently degustated1 ,i am convinced that ,i shall be forgiven4 ,welsh ,rabbit4 ,use about half a pound of hard1 dry1 sound1 mild cheese1 without flaw or speck4 ,cut it up into tiny dice1 in fact the smaller the better2 some indeed insist on grating the cheese1 but ,i have found this to be an unnecessary labour4 ,put a tablespoon of butter into the dish and knead it well with a wooden spoon until it begins to sizzle4 ,add half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 rather less of salt1 and a tablespoon of beer 7anything except bitter74 ,mix all thoroughly4 ,turn in the cheese and stir it about until it gets as consistent as thick cream1 adding two to three more tablespoons of beer gradually1 and taking great care that it does not become lumpy or stringy4 ,now put in a teaspoonful of made mustard4 ,keep on stirring until bubbles appear4 ,it is then ready4 ,you should beforehand get some toasts ready and as soon as the bubbling is well developed plunge in the toasts and cover them with the cheese4 ,serve on very hot plates4 ,milk can be used instead of beer1 and condiments may be added in the shape of ,worcester sauce or ,tabasco1 but ,i do not recommend them4 ,everything depends on regular and practically continuous stirring1 always in one direction of course4 ,if you want to turn the ,welsh ,rabbit into a ,buck ,rabbit1 drop a poached egg upon each piece of toast on top of the cheese4 ,here you have the whole art of ,rabbiting1 and it is a very good thing to eat--sometimes4 ,the right and only place for ,savouries at a dinner-party is fixed and determined by immutable custom1 but at a ,chafing-,dish meal1 be it luncheon or supper1 more latitude is allowed1 and a savoury may pop up here and there at the most unexpected--and thereby most delightful--moment4 ,i see nothing heterodox in having a savoury instead of hors d'uvres1 or introducing it after the fish or instead of sweets4 ,few people1 and those only of the baser sort1 despise a simple savoury4 ,it is such a succulent trifle1 a mere mouthful of suggestion1 an airy nothing that agrees with everything4 ,there are of course savouries and savouries4 ,i can only give a very few recipes1 but have tried to make them as diverse and appetising as possible4 ,ham ,toast4 ,a quarter of a pound of lean ham1 chopped fine4 ,do not mince it4 ,mincing machines1 however patent and 8adjustable10 have a way of reducing everything to an unholy pulp4 ,put the ham in the ,chafing ,dish with a teaspoon of ,worcester sauce1 half a teaspoon of good curry powder 7,i like ,ventacachellum's71 a small tablespoon of butter1 three drops of ,tabasco1 and two tablespoons of milk4 ,mix all well1 heat up for five minutes and then spread on hot fingers of toast4 ,cheese ,matador4 ,put a walnut of butter into the ,chafing ,dish1 also a ,spanish onion sliced4 ,simmer for three minutes4 ,then cut a quarter of a pound of hard dry cheese into dice1 and drop into the mixture2 add half a cup of milk and stir well till it is all thoroughly amalgamated and the cheese melted2 add salt and ,paprika and one beaten-up egg4 ,hot up for another three minutes and serve with toast4 ,savoury ,biscuits4 ,mix up the yolks of two eggs and two tablespoons of grated ,parmesan cheese4 ,you can buy this ready grated1 but it is not as good as if you grate it yourself4 ,add half a teaspoon of mustard and some salt4 ,spread the mixture on thinly buttered water biscuit 7or thin ,captains71 put the biscuits in the ,chafing ,dish1 over boiling water1 and let them get slowly hot4 ,braised ,olives4 ,stone neatly a dozen ,spanish olives4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with enough strong bouillon to cover them4 ,add a wine-glass of claret and the rind of half a lemon4 ,boil up quickly1 strain1 and serve the olives on toast or heated biscuit4 ,bombay ,toast4 ,a tablespoon of butter in the ,chafing ,dish2 as it melts stir in two eggs1 yolks and whites1 half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 the same of anchovy sauce1 and half a dozen capers1 chopped up4 ,when very hot spread this upon rounds of buttered toast4 ,devilled ,chestnuts4 ,boil half a pound of chestnuts and remove the shells and skins4 ,break them in handy little lumps4 ,when cold and hard return them to the ,chafing ,dish and fry them in a tablespoon of butter1 half a teaspoon of ,paprika1 and plenty of salt1 until they are well cooked through4 ,drain and dry them on blotting-paper1 and put a drop of ,tabasco on each lump4 ,salted ,almonds4 ,melt one and a half tablespoons of butter4 ,drop into it a quarter of a pound of blanched almonds1 and hot up till the almonds are well burned1 brown but not black4 ,drain them on blotting-paper and sprinkle them with plenty of salt and a little ,paprika4 ,the ,devil4 ,one can devil bones1 biscuits1 meat and fish in a ,chafing ,dish very nearly as well as on the grill4 ,care must be taken always to score the flesh across with deep incisions1 so that the devil mixture penetrates well into the meat4 ,this is the best devil mixture for ,chafing-,dish purposes that ,i know4 ,there may be better1 but ,i have not come across them4 ,mix well upon a plate a teaspoon of mustard1 the same of ,worcester sauce and anchovy sauce1 two teaspoons of olive oil and half a teaspoon of ,paprika4 ,let the meat soak up this mixture1 and then hot it up in a tablespoon of butter till it almost boils4 ,a chicken drumstick makes the best devil in the world1 but biscuits dipped in the mixture are not to be despised1 and even slices of cold cooked meat1 beef or mutton1 are very toothsome if treated in the same manner4 ,any cold bird makes an excellent devil4 ,macaroni4 ,although it may not come quite strictly under the head of ,eggs and ,savouries1 this seems about the right place to expatiate upon ,macaroni1 the national food of ,italy and the delight of every cultivated nation4 ,real macaroni is made of hard wheat of a semi-translucent kind1 which is richer in gluten and other nitrogenous matter than soft wheat4 ,macaroni is nothing but flour and water mixed in a cylinder1 which concocts it into stiff paste4 ,then it is rolled under a huge granite wheel which flattens it into a smooth mass4 ,it is cut into squares1 and flattened by the wheel again and again until it is thoroughly kneaded4 ,the dough then goes into an upright metal cylinder closed at the lower end with a thick disc of copper4 ,this is pierced with openings through which a plunge-piston squeezes the dough into threads4 ,the threads are cut off at regular intervals1 and hung upon wooden drying-rods4 ,real macaroni is tender1 yellowish1 rough in texture1 and elastic4 ,it breaks with a clean1 porcelainlike fracture4 ,when it boils it swells to twice its size1 and does not become sticky1 but keeps its tubular form without collapse4 ,it will keep any length of time in a dry cool place4 ,there are many agreeable variations on the macaroni theme1 some of which suggest music rather than cooking4 ,everybody knows ,vermicelli1 but among the lesser known but equally admirable kinds are ,tagliatelli1 ,lasagnete1 ,fuselli1 ,bicorni1 ,candele1 ,cannelloni1 ,pennoni1 ,capelli di ,angelo1 and many more4 ,each has its own little special peculiarity4 ,all are alike excellent4 ,tagliatelli4 ,perhaps the handiest for ,chafing-,dish purposes is ,tagliatelli4 ,boil two pints of water in the ,dish1 put in half a pound of ,tagliatelli1 boil eight minutes1 then strain4 ,return to the ,dish1 add a tablespoon of grated ,parmesan cheese1 and the same of butter4 ,toss round and round until well mixed1 and serve very hot4 ,tomatoes mix well with macaroni1 and so do mushrooms2 but the real macaroni-lover will prefer it by itself1 accompanied always1 of course1 by plenty of cheese4 ,mustard mixes well with it1 but be very chary of the salt1 for it is already salted during the process of preparation4 ,to make macaroni au gratin1 which seems 7unaccountably enough7 to be the only way in which it is served in nine ,british households out of ten1 the top of the cooked macaroni must be well covered with grated ,parmesan cheese1 and then carefully browned with a salamander4 ,ravioli4 ,another most useful ,italian preparation is ,ravioli1 which is compounded of a variety of good things4 ,as ,leporello says in ,don ,giovanni3 8,madamina1 il catalogo questo60 ,eggs1 ,macaroni1 ,paste1 ,pork1 ,chicken1 ,vegetables1 and ,cheese4 ,it is a sort of ,white ,knight portmanteau food1 and if quite fresh 7it is best in summer7 is rightly termed 8,a dinner in one course0--if you cook it badly you may omit one letter in the last word4 ,this is how to prepare ,ravioli with the help of ,chaffinda4 ,to two pints of boiling water in the ,chafing ,dish put a quarter of a pound of ,ravioli2 boil for ten minutes1 then strain4 ,return to the dish2 add half a teaspoon of butter1 the same of grated ,parmesan cheese1 and hot it up for three minutes4 ,additional zest may be given1 though it is by no means necessary1 by cooking with the ,ravioli a few fresh mushrooms1 tomatoes1 or even anchovies or olives4 ,the best ,ravioli ,i have found in ,london come from the ,vegetable ,meal ,company of ,soho4 ,with ,macaroni or ,ravioli ,i always suggest the drinking of ,chianti1 or ,lacrima ,christi4 ,the former can often be obtained of quite good quality1 not too rough or fiery4 ,as to the latter1 it is rare to find it drinkable4 ,as a rule it is impossible4 ,but the combination of food and wine is a good memory-reviver of a week at ,genoa4 ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,viii ,,sauces 8,like as1 to make our appetites more keen1 ,with eager compounds we our palates urge2 ,as1 to prevent our maladies unseen1 ,we sicken1 to shun sickness1 when we purge2 ,even so1 being full of your ne'er cloying sweetness ,to bitter sauces did ,i frame my feeding40 ,,shakespeare 7,sonnet cxviii474 ,madame de ,stal said that she did not believe in ghosts--but that she was afraid of them4 ,after the same fashion1 ,i do not altogether believe in sauces1 or perhaps ,i ought to say in any save the very simplest2 but ,i fully recognise their great value in the assimilation of food4 ,many dishes1 without their special sauces1 would be like a well-known song sung without an accompaniment4 ,however beautifully delivered1 no one1 be he never so musical1 could honestly say that he enjoyed ,schubert's 8,erlknig10 unaccompanied4 ,the accompaniment is so much a part of the artistic whole that to separate them would be sheer vandalism4 ,something of the same intimate oneness exists in cookery4 ,who would care to eat lamb divorced from mint sauce1 or boiled mutton without the necessary caper sauce1 or goose minus apple sauce8 ,at the same time it is a culinary axiom that the less sauce used the better4 ,a dish--any dish--8covered in sauce0 is an abomination4 ,we have the august authority of ,pliny for moderation and simplicity4 8,their best and most wholesome feeding is upon one dish1 and no more1 and the same plaine and simple3 for surely this huddling of many meats one upon another of divers tastes is pestiferous4 ,but sundrie sauces are more dangerous than that40 ,this is ,holland's translation4 ,another point worthy of consideration is that sauce is to a great extent a geographical expression4 ,what may be most excellent in ,madrid is wholly out of place in ,inverness2 and what is nice at ,nice is nasty at ,norwich4 ,insufficient account1 ,i venture to think1 is taken of the influence of climate upon national food1 and it is often difficult if not impossible to acclimatise foreign fare to ,british stomachs1 not because of anything inherent in the food1 but simply as a matter of latitude4 ,it is an historical commonplace that in the bleak cold north of ,europe boar's flesh was found more to man's taste than that of the bull or bear1 because it is fatter1 richer1 and produces much more heat4 ,for this very reason in the ,south and ,east of ,europe the flesh of swine is an abomination4 ,in the ,scandinavian ,edda we are told that a boar was killed every night for the food of the warriors who feasted in high ,valhalla4 ,the bones were all preserved1 together with the hide and head1 and in the morning they were put together and re-endowed with life4 ,the name of this huge pig was ,shrimner1 the cauldron in which it was boiled was called ,eldhrimner1 and the cook ,andhrimner4 ,both bear-ham and boar-ham are delicacies to this day in the ,north of ,europe4 ,much depends1 too1 upon the cooking2 bad cooking is waste1 both of money and comfort4 ,those whom ,god has joined in matrimony1 ill-cooked joints and worse-cooked potatoes have often put asunder4 ,in sauces1 above all things1 careful cooking1 implicit keeping to the exact formul of recipes1 and a restraint of all imagination1 are immensely necessary4 ,not even the greatest artist can afford to juggle with sauces4 ,they are fixed1 immutable1 and unalterable4 ,a very favourite expression in ,french culinary manuals is the injunction to the cook3 ,travaillez bien votre sauce4 ,the amateur sauce-maker would do well to bear this in mind4 ,the sauce must be well worked1 amalgamated1 combined2 otherwise it is a mere mess1 lacking cohesion and perfection4 ,it is alleged of the incomparable ,soyer that he said that sauces are to cookery what grammar is to language4 ,whether he really said so or not matters little4 ,some of the ,soyer sauces are classics to this day1 and not to be lightly imitated--especially on the ,chafing ,dish4 ,let it be borne in mind that each and every sauce should have a character of its own4 ,many otherwise quite virtuous cooks live and die in the belief that they cannot make a sauce sufficiently savoury without putting into it everything that happens to be available1 thinking1 ignorantly enough1 that every addition is bound to be an improvement4 ,there are only two real foundation sauces--mres sauces1 or grandes sauces1 as the ,french call them--the white and the brown sauce4 ,all other sauces are more or less based on these two4 ,the great ,carme resigned the position of ,master of the ,mouth to ,george ,,iv4 after only a few weeks' service1 and at an honorarium of #ajjj a year1 because he could not bear the ,english climate4 ,his culinary swan-song took the form of a wondrous sauce1 now alas6 lost1 which he called la dernire pense de ,carme4 ,a quite excellent and easily prepared sauce1 which the very poorest households can make1 and which will give zest to the simplest meal1 is that described in the ,delamere ,cookery ,book4 ,this is the recipe for ,pleasant ,companionship sauce4 ,a kind word will stir up the dormant appetite1 while a harsh one will extinguish it1 and1 what is worse1 will check the digestion of nutriment already taken4 ,such sauce may be regarded as ,moral ,sauce4 ,reasoning from these winged words1 we may infer that the remark so often heard from the mouths of little girl-children in the street3 8,now1 ,i won't 'ave none o' your sauce60 must really mean that there is a lack of ,moral ,sauce in the family circle4 ,in the recipes for the following sauces1 ,i have purposely kept the ingredients as simple as possible2 they are all reliable and appetising4 ,as to which sauce appertains especially to which fish or meat1 ,i do not propose to enter4 ,that is a matter of taste1 experience1 and individuality1 and ,i need hardly add that a white sauce does not go well with brown meat1 nor brown sauce with white meat4 ,such admonitions are surely unnecessary to the advanced ,chafist4 ,butter ,sauce4 ,two tablespoons of butter1 the same of flour2 melt and mix together in the ,dish1 bring to boiling-point and allow to boil up for half a minute1 then pour in a cupful of boiling water1 to reduce the same to the consistency of cream2 boil up again1 stirring all the time1 add a squeeze of lemon before serving4 ,white ,sauce4 ,mix well in the ,chafing ,dish two tablespoons of flour1 one of butter1 a small grating of nutmeg1 a little pepper and salt2 add a tumbler of milk2 hot it up1 stirring the while1 and strain before using4 ,brown ,sauce4 ,two tablespoons of butter4 ,heat and stir until it is brown and sizzling1 then add a tablespoon of ,tarragon vinegar1 the same of ,worcester sauce1 half a tablespoon of chopped capers1 a teaspoon of anchovy sauce1 and a wine-glass of bouillon4 ,boil up all this for three minutes4 ,piquant ,sauce4 ,mix up in the ,dish a teaspoon of each of the following1 chopped finely3 gherkins1 capers1 shallots 7or mild onions72 add half a teaspoon of black pepper and a tablespoon of vinegar4 ,boil this for three minutes1 then add a wine-glass of bouillon and a tablespoon of 8brown thickening0--which is sold ready made by grocers--and a dash of anchovy sauce4 ,boil up again and skim the surface before using4 ,matre d',htel ,sauce4 ,mix up well two tablespoons of butter with one of flour1 a grating of nutmeg1 half a teaspoon of black pepper1 the same of salt1 rather more of chopped parsley1 and a good squeeze of lemon4 ,put all this in the ,chafing ,dish with a tablespoon of milk4 ,stir it until it boils up1 and then serve very hot4 ,ravigote or ,rmoulade ,sauce4 ,these are to all intents and purposes the same sauce1 save that ,rmoulade has an added dose of oil and mustard4 ,mix a tablespoon of flour with the same of butter1 a grating of nutmeg1 half a teaspoon of pepper1 the same of salt1 the same of chopped parsley1 and a good squeeze of lemon4 ,put this in the ,chafing ,dish with a tablespoon of bouillon1 boil it up and skim it4 ,now mix up separately a tablespoon each of ,tarragon and ,chili vinegar and ,worcester sauce1 with a teaspoon of anchovy sauce4 ,boil up this mixture1 and after two minutes' boiling add it to the former mixture and combine the two4 ,reform ,sauce4 ,a cupful of bouillon in the ,dish1 add a wine-glass of port 7or claret1 but port is more orthodox71 half as much ,worcester sauce1 a teaspoon of anchovy sauce1 and a full tablespoon of red currant jelly4 ,boil it all up for three minutes1 and skim before using4 ,soubise ,sauce4 ,peel and slice four onions2 put them in the ,dish with a teaspoon of butter1 a little nutmeg1 pepper1 and salt4 ,cover up and stew very slowly until the onions are almost dissolved4 ,then add two tablespoons of flour1 a cold cooked potato cut into dice1 a cupful of bouillon1 and the same of milk4 ,stir and boil for three minutes4 ,then rub the sauce through a sieve and hot up again before serving4 ,bread ,sauce4 ,a tablespoon of bread-crumbs in the ,dish with an onion1 pepper and salt1 a cup of milk1 and half a tablespoon of butter4 ,hot up and stir for four minutes4 ,take out the onion before using4 ,mustard ,sauce4 ,to the foregoing plain butter sauce add a teaspoon of made mustard1 a tablespoon of ,chili vinegar1 a squeeze of lemon1 and a teaspoon of anchovy sauce4 ,make and serve very hot4 ,poor ,man's ,sauce4 ,chop up a fair-sized onion in the ,chafing ,dish with half a tablespoon of butter4 ,fry to a light brown1 then add a cup of bouillon1 a teaspoon of vinegar1 pepper and salt1 and a teaspoon of chopped parsley4 ,stir vigorously and add gradually half a tablespoon of flour1 and another half-tablespoon of butter4 ,boil up the sauce for two minutes4 ,madeleine ,sauce4 ,put in the ,dish a teaspoon of bread-crumbs1 two shredded shallots1 a walnut of butter1 a teaspoon of vinegar and two tablespoons of bouillon4 ,boil this for three minutes with pepper and salt4 ,the sauce should not be too thick4 ,black ,butter ,sauce4 ,a walnut of butter in the dish2 heat it till it is thoroughly brown1 then add a tablespoon of vinegar1 pepper and salt1 and hot it up again4 ,italian ,sauce4 ,put in the dish the peel of a quarter of a lemon1 three sprigs of parsley1 one of thyme1 four button mushrooms1 cut up small1 a walnut of butter1 and a suspicion of garlic4 ,hot up1 and when all is well mixed pour in half a cup of bouillon2 let it get thick1 but not boil4 ,then take out the garlic1 and add half a walnut of butter4 ,onion ,sauce4 ,cut up two good-sized onions into slices4 ,simmer them gently with a tablespoon of butter and two slices of ham1 one fat slice and one lean slice1 a teaspoon of flour1 salt1 pepper1 a pinch of sugar1 a wine-glass of bouillon1 and a good squeeze of lemon juice4 ,hot up for three minutes4 ,gubbins' ,sauce4 ,this is the best sauce ,i know1 and ,i have tried many1 for grills or anything in that way4 ,i copy it verbatim 7and without permission7 from that most excellent food-book entitled 8,cakes and ,ale10 by ,mr4 ,edward ,spencer4 ,gubbins' ,sauce is peculiarly adaptable to the ,chafing ,dish1 and is made in this wise3 ,fill the lower hot-water dish with boiling water4 ,keep it so4 ,melt in the ,chafing ,dish proper a lump of butter the size of a large walnut4 ,stir into it1 when melted1 two teaspoonsful of made mustard1 then a dessert-spoonful of vinegar1 half that quantity of ,tarragon vinegar1 and a tablespoonful of cream--,devonshire or ,english4 ,season with salt1 black pepper and cayenne1 according to the 7presumed7 tastes and requirements of the breakfasters4 ,so far the recipe4 ,i should add that although the ingenious inventor puts ,gubbins' ,sauce with a grill among his breakfast allurements1 it is by no means necessary to confine it to that meal4 ,i have found it excellent at midnight--and later--with devilled kidneys1 and it is not to be despised at any time of the day when you feel that way inclined4 8,the ,gastronomic ,regenerator3 a ,simplified and entirely ,new ,system of ,cookery10 by ,monsieur ,a4 ,soyer of the ,reform ,club1 ,london1 #ahdf4 ,such is the mouth-filling title of one of the most interesting and curious works of the last century4 ,the two-page dialogue with ,lord ,m7arcus7 ,h7ill71 and the extraordinary recipe for 8,the ,celestial and ,terrestrial ,cream of ,great ,britain10 are in themselves inimitable in their quaint pomposity4 ,maga for ,august #ahdf reviews the work kindly and good-humouredly1 and says that the 8,gastronomic ,regenerator0 reminds them of no book so much as the 8,despatches of ,arthur ,duke of ,wellington40 ,it may be a matter of dispute1 adds ,maga1 whether ,wellington or ,soyer acquired his knowledge in the face of the hotter fire4 ,although ,soyer was comic in his pompous affectation it must not be forgotten that he did splendid work in the ,crimea in feeding the sick and wounded4 ,also his sauces are master works4 ,and for these two things much may be forgiven him4 ,the foregoing sauces are best described as the regulars4 ,there are plenty of others1 mostly of a rather elaborate description1 which those more experienced than myself must describe4 ,i will content myself with adding quite a few irregular or freak sauces1 if ,i may use the expression4 ,fisherman's ,sauce4 ,this is a rather rich mixture1 adapted for fresh-water fish4 ,after a decent day's sport with the tricksome ,mayfly1 the quarter of an hour just before dinner may profitably be employed in concocting it4 ,half a pint of cream1 or milk1 but cream is better1 two tablespoons of walnut ketchup1 home made for choice1 and one tablespoon of anchovy sauce4 ,boil these up for five minutes1 and just before serving add a small walnut of butter1 a teaspoon of flour1 a squeeze of lemon1 and a pinch of cayenne4 ,stir up all together1 and serve very hot4 ,it is the best fresh-water fish-sauce going4 ,bigarade ,sauce4 ,this is essentially the wild-duck sauce1 and is a welcome and agreeable variant on the stereotyped port-wine sauce4 ,pare the rind of two oranges1 shred the rind thinly1 and boil up for five minutes in as little water as possible4 ,set the rind aside4 ,melt a walnut of butter in the ,dish1 mix it with half a tablespoon of flour1 and stir it till it begins to burn2 add a cupful of bouillon1 pepper and salt1 the squeezed juice of both oranges1 and a teaspoon of soft white sugar4 ,now put in the shredded rinds1 boil up for two minutes1 and serve with the duck4 ,if you have not time to make this sauce1 mix a glass of port wine1 a dash of cayenne1 and a squeeze of lemon4 ,slice the breast of the duck and pour this mixture over it4 ,a very useful adjunct to wild duck is a simple orange salad4 ,divide two or three oranges into sections1 dress them with oil1 vinegar1 pepper and salt1 and eat it as you would any ordinary salad4 ,prigueux ,sauce4 ,this is simply ,truffle ,sauce1 and appeals mainly to the vulgar-minded4 ,it is made thus3 ,chop up two truffles very finely4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with a glass of sherry and a walnut of butter1 and boil for five minutes2 add pepper and salt and a squeeze of lemon4 ,i am of opinion that truffles 7which the ancients thought were the product of thunder7 should only be eaten in one way1 and that is en serviette1 cooked in hot wood ashes and eaten with praise and thanksgiving4 ,the flavour of truffles ,i take to be one of the most perfect in the whole category of food-stuffs4 ,their indiscriminate use in shreds1 choppings1 patterns1 and for ornament1 ,i consider to be a capital sin4 ,the charcutier is mostly to blame for this2 any old thing dressed up aux truffes he considers a delicacy4 ,one day a band of knowledgeable eaters will slay all charcutiers4 ,truffles suggest pigs2 pigs suggest1 to me1 ,berkshire2 and ,berkshire a certain witty lady who1 speaking of a local magnate1 a self-made man1 and a very wealthy one too1 but who retained his awfully uncouth manners1 described him as a wild boar whom civilisation had turned into a pig4 ,i fear me there are many such4 ,one of the ,english ,kings died of a surfeit of lampreys1 and one of the ,french ,ministers of a surfeit of truffles1 which were also alleged to have mainly contributed to the demise of the famous gourmand ,bquet1 who was the predecessor of ,jules ,janin on the ,dbats1 and on whom ,roger de ,beauvoir wrote this epitaph3 8,cy-gt ,bquet1 le franc glouton ,qui but tout ce qu'il eut de rente2 ,son gilet n'avait qu'un bouton1 ,son nez en avait plus de trente60 ,an ex-chef to whom ,i told this story of ,bquet was profoundly moved1 and said simply3 8,it must have been a beautiful death60 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,,ix ,,sweets ,,and ,,oddments 8,and sweets grown common lose their dear delight40 ,,shakespeare 7,sonnet cii474 ,the warm glow of virtuous satisfaction induced by the knowledge that one has done what was expected of one is my sole excuse for the contents of this chapter4 ,i have no sweet tooth1 and my experience in the cooking of sweets has been limited to the few recipes which come later on4 ,even these ,i would rather have omitted1 because it is so easy to buy clairs1 petits fours1 and other 8dulceties0 wherewith to finish off a ,chafing-,dish meal1 but it is just on the confines of possibility that this book may be read by a lady--or1 if ,i am lucky1 by two or even three--and ,i should be indeed accounted a poor instructor if ,i omitted sweets from my curriculum4 8,i humbly beg pardon of heaven1 and the lady10 as ,mr4 ,pepys said when he kissed the cook4 8,give the bairns pudding in plenty1 again say ,i0--so wrote ,sir ,walter ,scott1 and ,i am heartily at one with him1 but ,chaffinda does not accommodate herself to the fabrication of pudding--and1 besides1 children ought to be in bed when supper-time brings the ,chafing ,dish on the table4 ,baking is of course impossible1 and boiling in a cloth equally so4 ,i have already said that ,chaffinda--being so nearly human--has her limitations1 and these are two of them1 which ,i1 for one1 in no wise regret4 ,nevertheless1 pudding is a great institution--in its proper place--which is childhood4 ,our national ,jack ,pudding was a common object of whilom country fairs1 a sort of typical buffoon who performed pudding tricks on a stage2 one of them being to swallow a number of yards of black puddings amidst yokel plaudits4 ,curiously enough1 and this is an etymological puzzle well worth following up1 the typical buffoon of most ,european countries is christened after the commonest article of the daily food of the people4 ,france has her ,jean ,potage2 ,germany1 ,hanswurst2 ,italy1 ,macaroni2 and ,holland1 ,pickel ,herringe4 ,this can hardly be a coincidence4 ,the learned ,dr4 ,thudichum wisely says3 8,the state of culture of every nation can be estimated comparatively by its confectionery1 even when we know little of its cookery1 for confectionery is the most advanced and refined part of cookery1 and thus enables an expert to draw a conclusion backwards regarding the kind of cookery out of which it originated40 ,this is certainly true to a limited extent1 but to attempt a rough and ready analysis on these lines is like dissecting a hummingbird with a hatchet4 ,generalisations are as dangerous as ,july oysters4 ,apple ,fritters4 ,now for my sweets4 ,the first one on the list is the familiar ,apple ,fritter1 or ,beignet de ,pommes4 ,it is quite easily cooked1 especially if a little care be taken over the concoction of the all-important matter of batter4 ,begin by carefully peeling four apples1 fairly large ones for choice1 then cut them into slices1 about one-eighth of an inch thick1 and take out the cores4 ,now make the batter4 ,put four tablespoons of flour in a basin with half a teaspoon of salt4 ,pour one tablespoon of oil on to half a tumbler of tepid water4 ,they will not mix of course4 ,add this gradually to the flour1 stirring it well4 ,next beat up two whites of egg to a very stiff froth1 and stir it lightly into the flour4 ,the batter is then ready for use4 ,the eggs should not be added until you are quite ready to make the fritters4 ,now with a skewer or fork take up the apple rings1 one by one1 dip them in the batter1 see that they are well covered1 and then drop them into the ,chafing ,dish in which you have heated two tablespoons of butter to boiling-point4 ,fry the apples until they are soft1 and of a golden brown colour4 ,drain them on kitchen paper1 and sprinkle them with a little castor sugar4 ,stewed ,apples4 ,apples1 plainly stewed in slices1 in milk and sugar1 and then served on a bed of rice1 are very satisfactory4 ,the experimenting ,chafist will find that sweets can very often be adapted so as to be suitable for the ,chafing ,dish4 ,but always rehearse your impromptus before trying them in public4 ,stewed ,rhubarb4 ,cut a pound of fresh sweet rhubarb into two-inch lengths1 put it in the ,chafing ,dish with a tumbler of water1 the peel of one lemon1 and a tablespoon of soft white sugar4 ,let it boil up until the rhubarb is quite soft1 and then either serve hot1 or--preferably--let it get quite cold and serve with clotted cream4 ,almost any stoneless fruit can be cooked in the same way4 ,gooseberries1 currants1 strawberries1 and raspberries all make excellent compote1 but care must be taken that the fruit does not get pulpy3 it should be quite soft1 but retain its proper shape4 ,quite ripe fruit is not so desirable as fruit that is just going to be ripe4 ,fried ,pineapple4 ,cut a smallish pine into half-inch slices1 paring the skin1 of course1 and split in half three or four ordinary penny sponge cakes4 ,fry these latter in the ,chafing ,dish in a tablespoon of butter till they are light brown on both sides4 ,take them out and keep them hot4 ,fry the pine slices in a like amount of butter and their own juice4 ,pour over them a wine-glassful of brandy and serve on the browned sponge cake4 ,cream may be added1 but it is not at all necessary4 ,coffee ,chestnuts4 ,shell a dozen chestnuts1 and boil them for five minutes1 then remove the skins4 ,put them back in the ,chafing ,dish with enough fresh water to cover them1 and a tablespoon of soft white sugar1 boil them until they are soft4 ,take them out and drain them1 but do not break them up4 ,now put in the ,chafing ,dish the yolk of one egg1 another tablespoon of soft white sugar1 half a teacup of strong black coffee1 a liqueur of brandy and a tablespoon of milk or cream4 ,keep on stirring till just upon boiling1 then pour over the chestnuts1 and serve hot4 ,it is not requisite to add brandy or other spirits to the foregoing dishes4 ,it certainly tends to completeness of flavour1 and1 especially with cooked fruits1 seems to bring out a subtle aroma or bouquet1 but many most estimable gourmets dispense with all spirits in cookery1 and are none the less well fed4 ,spirits should never be given in food for the young4 ,a ,surrey curate opened the ,sunday ,school one day with the well-known hymn1 8,little drops of water1 little grains of sand40 ,in the middle of the first verse he stopped the singing1 and complained strongly of the half-hearted manner in which it was sung4 ,he made a fresh start4 8,now then10 he shouted1 8little drops of water1 and for goodness sake put some spirit into it60 ,and he wore a blue ribbon in his buttonhole too6 ,i should have liked to give the full recipe for a seventeenth-century 8,quelque-,shose10 according to ,master ,robert ,may's cook-book4 ,the ingredients read temptingly--if somewhat lavish in quantity4 ,forty eggs are required1 which are to be made in the form of omelets1 which are to be 8rolled up like a wafer0 and served with 8white wine1 sugar1 and juyce of lemon40 ,another recipe of the same artist was for 8,pie ,extraordinary1 or ,bride ,pie1 which was made of 0severall compounds1 being of severall distinct pies on one bottom40 ,at a rough guess this may have been the forerunner of our latter-day ,bride-cakes1 with their superimposed layers of almond paste1 and consolidated indigestion4 ,it is always marvellous to me that there are so few sudden deaths after a wedding1 particularly if the cut cake has been handed about promiscuously4 ,bananas contain three times as much nourishment as meat or potatoes1 and as a food are declared to be superior to bread4 ,they are as good raw as cooked1 and my only advice is to take care to buy the smaller1 more delicate kinds1 and to avoid the grosser plantains1 which are musty and flavourless4 ,the kind known as 8,lady's ,fingers0 are the best of all4 ,banana ,cream4 ,tear off a strip of skin from each of half a dozen bananas4 ,put them in the ,dish with a tablespoon of milk1 and a sprinkle of soft sugar4 ,heat them up until the skins are quite brown and the fruit soft and pulpy4 ,then strip the skins1 add some more sugar1 and serve with sponge-cake fingers4 ,rice ,milk4 ,put in the ,chafing ,dish a teacupful of clean boiled rice1 rather more than a pint of milk1 a small stick of cinnamon1 and a bay leaf4 ,add a heaped tablespoon of soft white sugar1 and a suspicion of vanilla4 ,boil up very slowly1 and remove spices before serving4 ,skansk ,grt4 ,there is a very good ,swedish pudding1 known as ,skansk ,grt1 which is made in the following wise3 ,boil in the ,chafing ,dish half a pound of clean rice1 with the peel of a lemon1 and half a stick of cinnamon1 and a cup of milk4 ,just before it comes to the boil add four apples1 sliced and cored but not peeled1 and a handful of stoned raisins1 a tablespoon of sifted sugar1 and a wine-glass of sherry4 ,boil all this for eight minutes1 then take out the lemon peel and the cinnamon before serving4 ,this ,skansk ,grt can be eaten hot or cold1 with or without cream or milk4 ,it is good anyway4 ,stuffed ,figs4 ,stuff a quarter of a pound of good pulled figs with blanched almonds1 split in half4 ,put in the ,chafing ,dish a tablespoon of soft white sugar1 a teaspoon of lemon juice1 and a wine-glass of claret4 ,heat this up1 but do not boil4 ,add the figs1 cover up1 and cook for eight minutes1 when they ought to be quite tender and ready to serve4 ,whisky ,apples4 ,peel and core1 but do not cut up1 four largeish apples1 not necessarily cooking ones2 in fact sweet eating apples are better4 ,put them in the ,chafing ,dish with six tablespoons of soft white sugar1 the rind and juice of half a lemon1 and an inch stick of cinnamon1 a tiny bit of vanilla1 and half a tumbler of whisky4 ,let this simmer over a low flame for a good half-hour1 till the apples are soft4 ,when quite done put them on a hot dish and pour the sauce over them4 ,there is an old tradition among whist players to the effect that there are at the present moment seven hundred and fourteen ,englishmen wandering in destitution upon the continent of ,europe1 because they would not lead trumps when they held five4 ,i do not desire to find myself in a like case1 so ,i have played my trumps1 and must abide by the consequences4 ,i do not propose to invent impossible sweets which ,i have not tested in the ,chafing ,dish1 give them high-falutin' titles1 and palm them off on unsuspecting and all-confiding ,chafing students4 ,let them turn inventors themselves1 and my blessing go with them6 ,i have purposely said little or nothing on the subject of appropriate drinks to accompany ,chaffinda's efforts1 because that is1 to a certain extent1 a personal matter4 ,at the same time it may be useful to know that it is very easy to mature cheap claret4 ,the trick is ,french1 and fairly reliable4 ,it happens sometimes that the ordinary dinner claret of commerce leaves something to be desired in the way of flavour and palatability4 ,it may be sour1 acrid1 harsh1 biting1 vinegary1 and half a dozen other things1 all unpleasant4 ,add to a glass of such ordinary wine a teaspoonful of very hot water4 ,the effect is usually magical4 ,the wine seems ten years older4 ,it becomes softer1 mellower1 suaver1 and really almost drinkable4 ,le petit vin bleu du pays becomes almost a cru4 ,some people drink coffee after dinner1 and eke after lunch1 if they have time--and lunch4 ,others use it as a barometer4 ,you can do both1 if you know how4 ,it is very simple4 ,the coffee must be very hot4 ,drop a lump of sugar into the cup1 and before stirring it observe how the bubbles rise4 ,if they rush towards the middle of the cup and meet1 then it is going to be fine weather4 ,if they remain close to the edge of the cup it will rain or snow4 ,if they separate but wander about vaguely1 then the weather will be changeable4 ,this barometer is not infallible1 but it has been known to be accurate4 ,try it4 ,caf frequenters on the boulevards spend hours in checking the prognostications of their coffee by the weather reports in the papers4 ,i should like to give a few final hints on ,chafing-,dish party-giving1 the result of my own experience1 which has been both bitter and sweet4 ,imprimis3 8,don't ask too many people10 as ,h4 ,j4 ,byron said on his deathbed1 when his coachman told him that one of his horses was ailing and he thought he had better give him a ball4 8,you should always be two10 quoth the ,abb ,morellet1 8to eat a truffled turkey4 ,it is my invariable practice4 ,i am going to dine off one to-day4 ,we shall be two--the turkey and myself40 ,a fellow feeding makes us wondrous kind1 and ,i do not for a moment suggest that ,chafing-,dish meals should always be soli1 far from it2 a duet is delightful1 a trio tactful1 and a quartet quieting4 ,i cannot advise going beyond that number4 ,chaffinda is always present1 of course1 but she does not count as company1 she is merely the hand-maiden1 the geisha1 the tutelary genius hovering over the meal4 ,i have already enjoined the absolute necessity of rehearsal2 leave nothing to chance4 ,if you want to make your little effect1 see that it is properly stage-managed3 your properties ready1 your limes in working order1 and your band parts ready and complete4 8,in the green salad days of my youth1 when ,i rarely spoke aught but the truth10 ,i tried more than once to dazzle my guests with unrehearsed effects1 but in every case the result was dire failure4 ,all that sort of thing is magnificent1 but it is not cookery4 ,again1 do not attempt too elaborate a bill of fare4 ,be pre-,raphaelite in your attention to detail rather than ,academic in your mass of lavish decoration4 ,of two evils choose the prettier1 and prefer a discreet little meal of soup1 meat1 vegetable and savoury1 to an elaborate programme which defeats its own ends1 and clogs the appetite4 ,it is such much better form to be simple1 poor and proud--besides1 it costs less4 ,about forty years ago the late ,lord ,sidney ,godolphin ,osborn wrote a letter on the growing love of luxury to the ,times1 in the course of which he said3 8,the wealthy per force of their positions must have large expensive establishments2 they are doomed to live in show houses2 they are the proper consumers of the produce of the decorative arts2 but they yet have to eat1 and here comes the question4 ,how can they eat in character8 ,how can they dine up to their pictures1 sculpture1 plate1 and music80 ,the answer is easy enough4 ,they can never dine up to their pictures1 because they are usually dyspeptic4 ,illustration ,illustration3 ,,chapter ,x ,,amenities ,,of ,,the ,,table 8,i had some hopes of the cook at first1 but when ,i talked to her tightly and closely1 ,i could make nothing of her3 she was all wiggle-waggle1 and ,i could never persuade her to be categorical40 ,,dr4 ,,johnson 78,d',arblay's ,memoirs074 ,some of us have been to school4 ,it was usually a long time ago4 ,still1 here and there a man with a memory may recollect that when ,achilles1 in the 8,iliad10 has granted the request of the unhappy ,priam in reference to the dead body of his son1 his next remark to the old man is an eminently practical and sensible one3 8,let us now go to dinner60 ,it has struck me that this classical allusion may have been one of the reasons for the erection of the ,achilles statue at ,hyde ,park ,corner2 just to remind late dawdlers in the ,park that dinner-time and dressing-tide wait for no man or woman4 ,i have already had the presumption to suggest that we eat too often and too much and too late and too elaborately2 this has emboldened me to further frankness4 ,a ,french friend who 8knew himself0 in dining matters said to me once3 8,en ,angleterre on se nourrit bien1 mais on ne dine pas40 ,he was both right and wrong4 ,right as regards the very pseudo-,french cookery of the affluent middle-class1 wrong as regards the best restaurants and hotels4 ,buckle1 in his 8,history of ,civilisation10 following ,cabanis1 considers food as one of the four physical agents most powerfully influencing the human race4 ,men's manners and morality1 their customs and condition1 depend mainly on what they eat4 ,the boldness of the ,norseman and the timidity of the ,bengalee are justly due to their respective preference for meat or vegetables1 for carbonaceous or nitrogenous diet4 ,slavery in ,india is the direct result of rice1 in ,egypt of dates1 of maize in ,mexico and ,peru4 ,we must1 therefore1 adapt ourselves to circumstances in so far as the circumstances adapt themselves to us4 ,it is no longer fashionable to get drunk1 and in a generation or two it will be the worst kind of form to eat more than three courses at dinner4 8,tell me what you eat and ,i will tell you what you are10 said ,brillat-,savarin1 ,judge of the ,french ,court of ,cassation in #ahbf1 and not a professed cook1 as so many folk seem to imagine4 ,he goes on to say3 8,the gourmets by predestination can be easily told4 ,they have broad faces1 bright eyes1 small foreheads1 short noses1 full lips1 and rounded chins4 ,the females are plump and pretty rather than handsome1 with a tendency to embonpoint40 ,this is not complimentary1 and does not seem to be borne out by experience4 ,women gourmets are fewer than men1 but they make up in knowledge what they lack in number4 ,both ,goethe and ,byron have left it on record that they objected to seeing women eat1 but nowadays1 with better table manners1 it is not a disagreeable sight1 except perhaps at a ,swiss table d'hte4 ,an ,english dinner-party1 in the present year of grace1 is not at all ugly4 ,it may be--and sometimes is--almost a thing of beauty4 ,the modern dinner-table approaches as nearly to the old ,greek type as is compatible with the widely divergent character of the two civilisations4 ,it certainly follows the classic pattern in two valuable particulars--beauty and repose4 ,true1 we do not wreathe our heads in roses1 nor carry doves nestling in the folds of our robes1 nor pour libations of wine over one another 7such a messy habit671 but we have done away1 for good and all1 let us hope1 with the dreadful mid-,victorian table decorations4 ,instead of hideous dish-covers1 branching candelabra1 hideous pergnes1 and appalling 8set pieces10 we have ,hawthorn bowls of roses1 delicate ,venetian glass1 beaten copper finger-bowls1 perfectly plain silver1 and the simplest of white china4 ,everything perfect of its kind1 and its kind the non-ostentatious4 ,we have also become franker in the honest avowal of our appetites4 ,even in our grandmothers' time it was considered somewhat immodest to take a second helping without being pressed4 ,pressure was expected as a politeness from the host4 ,an old manual of table etiquette says3 8,offer every dish at least thrice to each guest4 ,timid appetites must be tempted1 for they exist still1 especially among literary folk60 ,altogether we are much politer1 outwardly at any rate1 than we used to be4 ,even a ,royal ,duke has manners4 ,so he had formerly--but they were mostly bad4 ,it is told of one of the ,royal ,family1 of a couple of generations ago1 that he was dining at ,belvoir1 and his host1 noticing ,his ,royal ,highness studying the menu at dinner1 asked him if he would like anything that did not appear on the bill of fare4 8,yes2 roast pig and apple dumpling10 was the gracious reply4 ,the daring simplicity of the royal appetite is splendid1 but the pity is that it was not more pleasantly put4 ,another reform in our dining arrangements is the greater love which folks now bear to fresh air4 ,formerly dining-rooms were heated up as though the guests were early cucumbers1 and wanted forcing4 ,this1 ,i am sure1 contributed greatly to the dulness of the average dinner-party4 ,as the result of careful observation1 ,i have found1 by experimenting with a thermometer1 that at a temperature of #fb ,fahrenheit conversation flows easily and every one's wits are at their best and sharpest4 ,at #ge or higher the most elastic spirits become subdued4 ,if any one says to me3 8,so-and-so was not himself last night at dinner10 ,i am always tempted to ask3 8,what was the temperature80 ,why will people1 when they dine out in public places1 insist on having music8 ,it seems to me a confusion of the arts1 and with little ear for music ,i cannot bring myself to take my soup in polka time1 or masticate my whitebait to the ,intermezzo from 8,cavalleria ,rusticana40 ,it is quite a modern fad1 for in #ahgd ,g4 ,a4 ,sala discusses music at dinner in a magazine1 and only refers to it in royal palaces4 ,with all deference to those who know better1 it seems to me to be rather rude to good music1 and to a good dinner4 ,all the foregoing is in direct relation to the art of the ,chafing ,dish1 because the refinement of modern cookery is nowhere more evident than in dealing with ,chaffinda4 ,i have been to a dinner-party where two ,chafing ,dishes were brought on to the table after the sweets1 one being placed before the host and the other before the hostess4 ,deft servants handed the necessary ingredients1 and in five minutes1 the guests 7we were eight1 ,i think7 were enjoying a little egg savoury1 piping hot1 and cooked before their eyes4 ,this sort of thing may become quite common4 ,who knows8 ,the table for an ordinary ,chafing-,dish meal1 whether luncheon1 dinner or supper1 such as might be cooked after a diligent study of the foregoing chapters1 should be arranged as simply as possible4 ,one end bears the ,chafing ,dish on its own little tray and cloth4 ,the remaining three-quarters of the table may be laid for a smallish party1 and1 by all the canons of good taste1 avoid decorating it with tulle or nun's veiling1 or chiffon1 or whatever the silly1 flimsy1 puffy stuff is called4 ,you might as well put ostrich feathers and bombazine in the middle of the table4 ,good simple glass and china1 the older the better1 as a rule1 because the forms are more beautiful2 and ,i see no need for uniformity in either service1 so long as each individual piece is beautiful in itself4 ,pewter plates retain the heat splendidly1 and some of the old ones are excellent in design4 ,wooden platters are affected by some people for meats1 and ,i confess that the red juice of the meat on the well-scrubbed surface is very pleasing4 ,keep the centre ornament very low1 so that one can see and talk across it4 ,a big dish of almost any old blue and white ware1 with a very few flowers1 but each bloom perfect in itself1 is my own ideal4 ,nothing is more trying than to talk to your opposite neighbour across a small table1 through a mass of tightly packed towering flowers1 or a jungle of dense fern4 ,it is not beautiful1 but just annoying4 ,chafing-,dish cookery1 ,i am delighted to be able to add1 seems to engender the love of beautiful things4 ,it is so easy to pick up and use1 in parlour cookery1 all sorts of quaint and delightful pieces of china of curious and old-fashioned design4 ,they may not all be genuine2 in fact1 most of them are pretty certain not to be4 ,but if the shape is good1 the colouring pleasing1 and the form well adapted for holding sauce1 sweetmeats1 condiments1 or anything else1 then1 so far as ,chaffinda is concerned1 their genuineness and intrinsic value is a secondary matter4 ,one is occasionally tempted by the offer of a real old silver ,chafing ,dish with or without an ivory handle4 ,cooking in such an implement would be an ultra refinement of the art4 ,but the temptation must be resisted1 such things are not for daily use1 although at one time and in some houses a silver dish no doubt was always put before the master1 wherein to make his ,welsh ,rabbit4 ,there is a sort of huge silver ,chafing ,dish in the ,cluny ,museum1 which rather suggests a cauldron1 so vast are its dimensions4 ,it is evidently fairly old and has seen much use1 though it is not quite evident what could have been cooked in it1 unless it were the original marmite of ,monsieur ,deharme1 which never left off cooking4 ,grimod de la ,reynire places on record1 as an example to all good cooks1 this extraordinary marmite--or stockpot--of ,monsieur ,deharme1 a restaurateur in the ,rue des ,grands-,augustins4 ,he calls it 8the everlasting marmite10 as1 at the date of writing 7#ahjc71 it had not been off the fire for eighty-five years6 ,during that time it had cooked at least three hundred thousand capons1 for ,monsieur ,deharme's specialty was the purveying of well-cooked hot capons at any hour of the day and night4 ,his establishment was always open1 and the procession of succulent birds to the marmite was unending2 in fact1 the ,deharme fowl was regenerated perpetually in one long procession of--apparently--the same bird1 born anew for each successive customer4 ,the author adds that this marmite was celebrated throughout ,europe--and no wonder4 ,in preparing some of the recipes in preceding chapters1 ,chafers may find some difficulty1 if it be summer-time1 in keeping one portion of the dish hot whilst the other portion is cooking4 ,when ,i have no fire in the room1 ,i use a copper tray with two spirit lamps underneath4 ,this is a splendid invention and no ,chafer should be without one4 ,then there is another useful thing to remember4 ,the lower hot-water dish1 if filled with water and put over the lamp1 only half turned up1 will keep food warm in the ,chafing ,dish for ever so long4 ,this is often useful to know1 as it is so pleasant to find something unexpectedly prepared and ready when one had feared that all the cooking had to be done by oneself4 ,after a late night's work such a surprise is very comforting4 ,in preparing a ,chafing-,dish meal it is important to remember the sequence of cooking1 so that the waits between the courses shall not be too long4 ,i use two ,chafing ,dishes1 so that there need be no delay2 one can be cleaned whilst the other is in use4 ,if you are making soup1 have the fish ready so that it only wants hotting up4 ,if your second course takes a little time1 fill up the interval with something cold1 or a salad4 ,work out your plan carefully beforehand so that there can be no possibility of accident1 and if the occasion be special1 and you wish to shine to your very best advantage1 ,i earnestly recommend you to have a full-dress rehearsal the day before1 and time yourself accurately for each dish2 then there can be little chance of failure4 ,the setting forth of menus seems to me to be an entirely futile method of filling up a cook-book4 ,no one ever follows them1 because things never happen just so as to make all the materials simultaneously available4 ,it is much better to dip here and there in a book--to choose a soup1 a meat1 and a salad2 or a fish1 a bird1 and a savoury2 or a soup1 a fish1 and a sweet 7an it be ,friday7--to suit your convenience1 pocket1 and taste of the moment4 ,further1 as ,i have already explained1 ,i do not pretend to have done more than touch on the fringe of the possibilities of the ,chafing ,dish4 ,i have only described what ,i have done1 and hinted at what others may do4 ,but what ,i particularly want to draw attention to is the scope for original research in the cult of ,chaffinda4 ,a long winter's evening is much more profitably spent experimenting with the ,chafing ,dish than--well1 playing ,patience1 for instance4 ,i do not desire to make every unmarried man and woman a cook4 ,far from it4 ,but it would do us no harm to think a little more of the quality of the food we eat1 and less of the quantity4 ,few of us1 however1 are so stomach-ridden as ,mynheer ,welters1 ,burgomaster of ,dilburg1 in a delightful novel published thirty years ago1 called 8,the ,burgomaster's ,family10 by ,christine ,muller1 and translated from the ,dutch by ,sir ,john ,shaw-,lefevre4 ,burgomaster ,welters worshipped his stomach4 ,what a good dinner was to him no words can express4 ,it was the realisation of all his dreams and wishes4 ,the content of soul and the feeling of philanthropy which his eyes expressed after such a dinner must have been seen to be described4 ,he was accused of marrying ,widow de ,graaff because she knew the recipe of a certain pie which she would not divulge at a less price than marriage4 ,if any one spoke of glorious summer1 he only thought of early vegetables2 ,france reminded him of ,veuve ,cliquot1 and ,germany of ,bavarian beer4 ,an ,american ,chafing-,dish book in my possession contains the following quaint apothegm3 8,the ,chafing ,dish not only makes possible the sincerest expression of the most perfect hospitality1 but it seems the true symbol of good fellowship40 ,the sentiment herein expressed is unimpeachable1 and ,i should like to be able to use such pretty talk myself4 ,it is exactly what ,i wanted to explain1 but being clumsy in the expression of intimate feeling1 ,i cannot get beyond something to this effect3 8,the ,chafing ,dish is a handy thing to have about the house1 and turns up usefully at the most unexpected moments4 ,it is a ripping good idea60 ,illustration ,,index ,,page ,almonds1 ,salted1 #aec ,alderman's ,walk1 #cd ,anchovy and ,cucumber ,salad1 #acf ,anchovy ,eggs1 #adg ,antiquity of the ,chafing ,dish1 #c ,apple ,fritters1 #agi ,apples1 ,stewed1 #aha ,whiskey1 #ahg ,artichokes1 ,braized1 #aae ,artichoke ,chips1 ,fried1 #aae ,bacon and ,cauliflower ,salad1 #acf ,banana ,cream1 #ahe ,beans1 ,broad1 #abj ,italian1 #abj ,french1 #aai ,haricot1 #abb ,beef1 ,chipped1 #hf ,devilled1 #hd ,steak1 #hc ,strips1 #ba ,bigarade ,sauce1 #agc ,bills of ,fare1 #cc ,bird's-,nest ,soup1 #ea ,biscuits1 ,devilled1 #aed ,savoury1 #aeb ,black ,butter ,sauce1 #afi ,bloaters1 ,grandfather's1 #gg ,bombay ,toast1 #aec ,braized ,artichokes1 #aae ,olives1 #aeb ,bread ,salad1 #acf ,sauce1 #afh ,brigands' ,fowls1 #ii ,broad ,beans1 #abj ,italian1 #abj ,brown ,sauce1 #afe ,browned ,tongue1 #ca ,brussels ,sprouts1 #aba ,bubble and ,squeak1 #ij ,butter1 ,black1 ,sauce1 #afi ,sauce1 #afd ,buttered ,lobster1 #fc ,carrot ,soup1 #di ,cauliflower and ,bacon ,salad1 #acf ,celeriac ,salad1 #aca ,celery ,salad1 #acj ,chafed ,salmon1 #ei ,chafing ,dish1 ,antiquity of1 #c ,outfit1 #ai ,chapon1 ,the1 #abh ,cheese1 ,matador1 #aea ,chestnuts1 #abc ,coffee1 #ahb ,devilled1 #aec ,chicken1 ,brigands'1 #ii ,creamed1 #ajb ,howtowdie1 #ajj ,minced1 #bd ,roman1 #aja ,chicory ,salad1 #acj ,chipped ,beef1 #hf ,cleanliness1 #bi ,cockroach ,soup1 #ea ,cocotte1 ,eggs en1 #ade ,cod ,pudding1 #fj ,coffee ,barometer1 #ahh ,chestnuts1 #ahb ,cold ,meats1 #cj ,court ,bouillon1 #fi ,cream ,banana1 #ahe ,creamed ,chicken1 #ajb ,smelts1 #gb ,crey ,soup1 #di ,cross ,star ,soups1 #dj ,cucumber and ,anchovy ,salad1 #acf ,cutlets1 ,mutton1 #bg ,dandelion ,leaves1 #acj ,decoration of ,dinner ,table1 #aih ,devilled ,beef1 #hd ,biscuits1 #aed ,chestnuts1 #aec ,devil1 ,the1 #aed ,digestive ,prawns1 #fe ,dining-room ,temperature1 #aif ,dinner1 ,music at1 #aig ,table ,decoration1 #aih ,eggs1 #aci ,anchovy1 #adg en ,cocotte1 #ade ,kempton1 #adf ,lady ,effingham's1 #ade ,newmarket1 #adf ,poached1 #ada ,scrambled1 #ada ,eels1 ,matelote1 #gf ,nettled1 #gf ,souchet1 #ge ,endive ,salad1 #acj ,etena ,jarvat1 #id ,fatiguing1 ,a1 ,salad1 #abh ,figs1 ,stuffed1 #ahf ,fisherman's ,sauce1 #agc ,flattered ,lobster1 #fd ,fowl1 ,brigands'1 #ii ,roman1 #aja ,french ,beans1 #aai ,names1 #cd ,menus1 #cd ,fried ,artichoke ,chips1 #aae ,herrings1 #eg ,parsley1 #abb ,pineapple1 #ahb ,potatoes1 #aac ,tomatoes1 #aad ,fritters1 ,apple1 #agi ,frizzled ,ham1 #hh ,gallimaufrey1 #hi ,game1 ,minced1 #bd ,germiny ,soup1 #eb ,grt1 ,skansk1 #ahf ,grandfather's ,bloaters1 #gg ,green ,peas1 #abc ,goulasch1 #ic ,gubbins' ,sauce1 #agj ,ham1 ,frizzled1 #hh in ,hades1 #hh ,jellied1 #bb ,toast1 #aea ,haricot ,beans1 #abb ,herrings1 ,fried1 #eg ,hodge's ,sausages1 #ib ,howtowdie1 #ajj ,hurried ,sardines1 #ga ,italian ,broad ,beans1 #abj ,sauce1 #agj ,jardinire ,salad1 #acf ,jellied ,ham1 #bb ,kabobs1 #ii ,kedgeree1 #gc ,martin ,harvey's1 #gd ,kempton ,eggs1 #adf ,lady ,effingham's ,eggs1 #ade ,leeks1 ,welsh1 #aai ,lettuce ,salad1 #acj ,lobster1 ,buttered1 #fc ,flattered1 #fd ,polly1 #fc ,locust ,soup1 #ea ,macaroni1 #aee ,madeleine ,sauce1 #afi ,matre d',htel ,sauce1 #aff ,martin ,harvey's ,kedgeree1 #gd ,mary's ,potatoes1 #aab ,mashed ,potato ,salad1 #aca ,matador ,cheese1 #aea ,matelote of ,eels1 #gf ,mayonnaise1 #g ,mealies1 #abe ,meat1 ,cold1 #cj ,menus1 #cc ,milk1 ,rice1 #ahe ,minced ,chicken1 #bd ,game1 #bd ,mushrooms1 #aaf ,stewed1 #aag ,music at ,dinner1 #aig ,mustard ,sauce1 #afh ,mutton ,cutlets1 #bg ,saddle of1 #cd ,steaks1 #id ,mutton1 ,turkish1 #id ,venison1 #ie ,nettled ,eels1 #gf ,newmarket ,eggs1 #adf ,oddments1 #agg ,olives1 ,braized1 #aeb ,omelettes1 #adb ,onions1 #i ,sauce1 #agj ,outfit of ,chafing ,dish1 #ai ,oysters1 #fh ,palestine ,soup1 #dg ,parsley1 ,fried1 #abb ,peas1 #abc ,pea ,soup1 #db ,perigueux ,sauce1 #agd ,pheasant1 ,yesterday's1 #ajd ,pineapple1 ,fried1 #ahb ,piquant ,sauce1 #aff ,plump and ,wallop1 #if ,poached ,eggs1 #ada ,polly1 ,lobster1 #fc ,poor ,man's ,sauce1 #afi ,soup1 #df ,potatoes and ,point1 #ig ,fried1 #aac ,mary's1 #aab ,mashed ,salad1 #aca ,salad1 #acj ,sala's1 #aab ,uglies1 #aab ,prawns1 ,digestive1 #fe ,on the ,grass1 #fg ,wiggle1 #ff ,preserved ,soups1 #dj ,pudding1 #agh ,cod1 #fj ,pure of ,spinach1 #aaf ,rabbit1 ,welsh1 #adi ,ravigote ,sauce1 #aff ,ravioli1 #aeg ,reform ,sauce1 #afg ,rehearsals1 ,necessary1 #bjb ,remoulade ,sauce1 #aff ,rhubarb1 ,stewed1 #aha ,rice ,milk1 #ahe ,robert ,sauce1 #bh ,romaine ,salad1 #acj ,roman ,fowl1 #aja ,rules for ,salad1 #abh ,rump ,steak1 #hc ,saddle of ,mutton1 #cd ,salads1 #abh ,anchovy and ,cucumber1 #acf ,bacon and ,cauliflower1 #acf ,bread1 #acf ,cauliflower1 #acj and ,bacon1 #acf ,celeriac1 #aca ,celery1 #acj ,chestnuts and ,sprouts1 #ace ,chicory1 #acj ,cucumber and ,anchovy1 #acf ,dandelion1 #acj ,endive1 #acj ,green ,peas and ,walnuts1 #ace ,jardinire1 #acf ,lettuce1 #acj ,mixture1 #abg ,potato1 #acj ,mashed1 #aca ,romaine1 #acj ,rules1 #abh ,sprouts and ,chestnuts1 #ace ,tomato1 #acj ,walnuts and ,green ,peas1 #ace ,sala's ,potatoes1 #aab ,salmon1 ,chafed1 #ei ,salted ,almonds1 #aec ,sardines in a ,hurry1 #ga ,waldorf1 #ga ,sauces1 #aei ,bigarade1 #agc ,black ,butter1 #afi ,bread1 #afh ,brown1 #afe ,butter1 #afd ,fisherman's1 #agc ,gubbins'1 #agj ,italian1 #agj ,madeleine1 #afi ,matre d',htel1 #aff ,mustard1 #afh ,onion1 #agj ,perigueux1 #agd ,piquant1 #aff ,poor ,man's1 #afi ,ravigote1 #aff ,reform1 #afg ,robert1 #bh ,remoulade1 #aff ,soubise1 #afg ,white1 #afe ,sausages1 ,hodge's1 #ib ,savoury ,biscuits1 #aeb ,scrambled ,eggs1 #ada ,scouse1 #ih ,skansk ,grt1 #ahf ,smelts1 ,creamed1 #gb ,smothered ,turbot1 #gj ,soubise ,sauce1 #afg ,souchet of ,eels1 #ge ,sprats1 #fa ,soups1 #ch ,bird's-nest1 #ea ,carrot1 #di ,cockroach1 #ea ,crey1 #di ,cross ,star1 #dj ,germiny1 #eb ,locust1 #ea ,palestine1 #dg ,pea1 #db ,poor ,man's1 #df ,preserved1 #dj ,turtle1 #dc ,spinach ,pure1 #aaf ,sprats1 ,souchet1 #fa ,sprouts and ,chestnut ,salad1 #ace ,stargazer ,pie1 #fj ,steak1 ,beef1 #hc ,mutton1 #id ,rump1 #hc ,stewed ,apples1 #aha ,mushrooms1 #aaf ,rhubarb1 #aha ,strips of ,beef1 #ba ,stuffed ,figs1 #ahf ,sweets1 #age ,tagliatelli1 #aef ,temperature of ,dining-room1 #aif ,thistles1 #aah ,toast1 #bf ,bombay1 #aec ,ham1 #aea ,tomatoes1 #aad ,tomatoes1 ,fried1 #aad ,tongue1 ,browned1 #ca ,trout in ,small ,broth1 #fi ,turbot1 ,smothered1 #gj ,turkish ,mutton1 #id ,turtle ,soup1 #dc ,uglies1 ,potatoes1 #aab ,vegetables1 #ajh ,vegetarianism1 #ajh ,venison ,mutton1 #ie ,waldorf ,sardines1 #ga ,walk1 ,alderman's1 #cd ,walnut and ,green ,pea ,salad1 #ace ,welsh ,leeks1 #aai ,rabbit1 #adi ,whiskey ,apples1 #ahg ,white ,sauce1 #afe ,wiggle ,prawns1 #ff ,yesterday's ,pheasant1 #ajd ,zrazy1 #hg ,printed by ,,ballantyne1 ,,hanson ,,co4 ,london ,edinburgh ,transcriber's ,notes3 ,italics are shown thus3 sloping4 ,variations in spelling and hyphenation are retained4 ,perceived typographical errors have been changed4