,illustration3 ,,the ,,ladies' ,,own ,,book1 ,,and ,,companion ,,to ,,the ,,work ,,table4 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald4 ,,new-,,york ,illustration ,,the ,,ladies' ,,complete ,,guide ,,to ,crochet1 ,fancy ,knitting1 and ,needlework4 ,,by ,,mrs4 ,,ann ,s4 ,,stephens4 ,containing a complete ,dictionary of the technical terms and characters used in descriptions of ,crochet and ,fancy ,knitting ,patterns4 ,in this work the terms are so clearly explained1 that any person who can read1 can in a few hours learn to execute the most complicated and difficult patterns in ,crochet and ,knitting4 ,this work also contains the clearest elementary information and the fullest instructions for every species of ,needlework1 with new and beautiful edgings and insertions1 in addition to the choicest specimens of ,ladies' work4 ,,new ,,york3 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald1 #ah ,,ann ,,street4 ,entered according to ,act of ,congress1 in the year #ahed1 by ,,garrett ,,co41 ,in the ,clerk's ,office of the ,district ,court of the ,united ,states for the ,southern ,district of ,new ,york4 ,,contents4 ,page4 ,needlework and its ,history #e ,introduction #bb ,honiton ,lace ,collar #bd ,passion ,flower in ,chenille #bf ,card ,basket in ,crochet #bh ,border for a ,quilt #bi ,crochet ,edging #cj ,punch's ,anti-,macassar #ca ,deep ,lace in ,crochet #cc ,tatted ,insertion #cd ,anti-,macassar #ce ,net for the ,hair #cg ,berlin ,work and ,canvas ,embroidery #ch ,crochet ,collar #dd ,knitted ,lace ,undersleeve #df ,insertions in ,embroidery #dg ,table ,mat #dh ,gentlemen's ,knitted ,braces #di ,small ,gimps in ,crochet #di ,judy's ,anti-,macassar #ej ,crochet ,d',oyley #ec ,point ,lace ,instructions #ed ,crochet ,collar #fa ,mat with ,border of ,moss1 c4 #fb ,initials in ,embroidery #fc ,autour ,boutons #fd ,pretty ,carriage ,bag #fd ,d',oyley in ,square ,crochet #fe ,deep ,point ,lace #ff ,crochet ,edging #fg ,crochet ,edging #fh ,crochet ,insertion #fi ,instructions in ,embroidery #gj ,honiton ,crochet ,collar #gf ,knitted ,basket #gg ,initial ,letters #gh ,shamrock-,leaf ,d',oyley #gi ,pinafore #hj ,neck ,tie #hb ,embroidery #hb ,square ,d',oyley #hc ,deep ,lace in ,crochet #hc ,collars in ,tatting #hd ,crochet ,insertion #he ,knitting ,instructions #hf ,infant's ,cap ,crown #hi ,initials #ia ,knitted ,bag #ib ,lacet ,bag #ic ,d',oyley in ,square ,crochet #ic ,crochet ,edging #id ,lady's ,chemisette #if ,anti-,macassar #ih ,crochet ,mat #ajj ,instructions in ,tatting #ajb ,embroidery on ,cambric #aje ,knitted ,lace ,collars #ajf ,spanish ,crochet ,edging #ajg ,collar in ,frivolite #ajh ,collar in ,frivolite #aji ,fish ,cloth #aaj ,crochet ,insertion #aac ,knitted ,scarf #aad ,night ,cap in ,crochet #aae ,crochet ,edging #aag ,,ladies' ,,complete ,,guide ,,to ,,crochet ,,and ,,needle ,,work4 ,,needle ,,work ,,and ,,its ,,history4 ,the first step in education ever made by the feminine mind was the art of ,needlework4 ,before women began to read1 and when they considered writing as a mystery only to be undertaken by men of nobler parts1 ,needlework became a sort of medium by which women attempted to express their ideas and embody those affectionate thoughts that must have some expression to keep the full heart from overflowing4 ,in olden times1 when war and warlike fame was the great object of every brave man1 woman first learned to write her love and all the mysterious faith which1 with the educated or uneducated1 is a portion of her being1 in those war pennants and embroidered scarfs that were worn by the sterner sex as rewards of valor or expressions of love4 ,taking a hint from the flowers1 ,god's own handwriting of love upon the bosom of the earth1 she began to symbol the deep feelings of her nature in imperfect imitations1 and this was the first step made by woman in the progress of mind4 ,how rude and uncouth these first attempts were1 matters little4 ,they constituted the alphabet of all the bright creations1 whether of the pencil or pen1 which are the glory of the present century4 ,during the dark ages ,needlework was considered an aristocratic1 nay1 almost a regal accomplishment1 and queens vied with each other in the gentle art as ardently as their husbands struggled in the battle-field4 ,the ,lady of a castle in those times made it a portion of her duty to initiate the noble damsels of her household in the mysteries of cross and tent-stitch1 just as her lord held noble youths in training for the battle-field4 ,the amount of ,needlework done by the female sovereigns of ,england and ,france is really wonderful6 ,the wife of ,william the ,conqueror wrought whole suits of tapestry with her own hands1 and poor ,mary ,stewart has left scores of mournful proofs how great a consolation this accomplishment is to the suffering and afflicted4 ,her solitude in the various prison castles of ,england was softened more by this gentle occupation of the hands1 than by her literary or conversational talent put together4 ,the most touching memento of this beautiful woman at ,holyrood ,palace is the basket in which she placed those pretty garments1 enriched by her own skill1 intended for the infancy of her only son--that son who allowed her to remain a prisoner during his entire youth1 rather than endanger the friendship of her royal murderess4 ,indeed one of the most painful events of her life was connected with this art4 ,after a year of prison life1 spent in embroidering a robe for this pusillanimous son1 after she had woven as it were her anguish and her tears in the rich fabric1 she forwarded the garment to ,scotland1 accompanied by a letter full of maternal love4 ,this letter was directed to ,james1 ,prince of ,scotland1 not to the ,king4 ,holding her own sovereign rights as sacred1 how could she acknowledge those of another by her own hands4 ,james sent the robe back because of this omission ,it is easy to fancy1 after this outrage1 that poor ,mary ,stewart might receive her death warrant with comparative composure4 ,,knitting4 ,we should find it difficult to trace the origin of this particular class of work-table employment1 of which our book treats1 except as it sprang from these intricate stitches first introduced into old point lace4 ,the transition from one needle to more1 and the weaving of thread into forms of beauty1 was a progress natural to the spirit of invention1 and the facilities for thought which the first step in any art creates4 ,probably the first progress which ,knitting made toward a distinct art1 was when yarn stockings were invented in ,flanders4 ,the stitch1 as every ,new ,england housewife knows1 is simple enough4 ,but inventive genius has so adorned and varied it1 that stockings are easily enriched with lace-work1 and lace itself is abundantly manufactured by a little thread and a pair of knitting needles4 ,there is no female accomplishment so universal as this of knitting4 ,the women of different nations perform the simple stitches with a process of their own1 but the result is the same4 ,in ,germany and ,russia1 the yarn is held in the left hand1 and wound in an intricate fashion among the fingers of that hand1 while with us it is simply folded over the front and little finger of the right hand4 ,the author remembers well the amazement and merry smiles of a ,russian lady in ,st4 ,petersburg1 when she exhibited this ,american method of producing the stitch the lady had been forming in the continental fashion2 this was but natural2 for the amusement was quite mutual4 ,nothing could be droller than the way in which she handled her needles4 ,all over ,europe1 ladies may be seen in their balconies after dinner1 grouped around their work-baskets1 while the gentlemen converse with them1 or silently watch the progress of their pretty tasks4 ,in the sitting-room of every mansion1 some one corner is rendered cozier than the rest1 by the well-used work table1 laden with pretty boxes and baskets1 crowned with a rainbow wreath of ,berlin wool4 ,fashionable as this household accomplishment is getting among us1 ,american ladies devote themselves less to needlework than those of almost any other nation4 ,,crochet ,,work4 ,crochet ,work proper is1 in its present improved form1 almost a modern invention4 ,it has only been introduced to any extent into the country within the last twenty years1 but now it is very general1 and our old-fashioned knitting work is completely thrown into the back ground by the ,crochet needle4 ,the embroidered sheath and chased silver needle-case have disappeared even from the cherry-wood workstands of ,new ,england1 and a thousand beautiful designs for chairs1 cushions1 toilets and wearing apparel1 supply the place of the old-fashioned stocking basket with its well mended contents4 ,in ,england and ,ireland1 where the ladies are always industrious1 ,crochet work has arisen to the dignity of an art4 ,it is introduced into the national schools1 and hundreds of poor are supported by the rich laces and pretty collars produced there4 ,it is quite wonderful to what perfection this art has reached in some districts of ,ireland4 ,every day develops new improvements and contributes some novel pattern to the world1 which promises to render this class of lace making more popular than even the ,english point1 has been1 especially on this side the ,atlantic4 ,at the ,crystal ,palace this year1 some specimens of ,crochet collars1 sleeves1 and even entire dresses1 were exhibited that had all the rich effect of old point lace4 ,flowers1 even raised in petals from the ground work1 have been invented1 and the most intricate patterns are given with a boldness of effect only to be found in the ancient lace we have mentioned4 ,thus it is pleasant to see that what was late only a dainty accomplishment with which the gentlewoman idled away her time1 promises to become a means of support to the working classes4 ,in this country1 ,crochet work can only be denominated an accomplishment1 but we must consider it not merely as an elegant way of whiling away time1 but as one of those gentle means by which women are kept feminine and lady-like in this fast age4 ,masculine women of hard and coarse grained natures1 are seldom given to these pleasant household employments4 ,we never hear that ,elizabeth amused herself with the needle1 she was too busy with her pen signing death warrants1 or with her tongue scolding her council1 for any thoughts of the graceful art which brightened the prison she gave to her beautiful rival4 ,indeed1 fancy work in all its branches is always subservient to the household spirit which attends every true woman4 ,there is a careless fashion among gentlemen1 of speaking lightly regarding those graceful exhibitions of female industry1 which pass under the head of ,fancy ,work4 ,yet1 to our mind1 there is no amusement more innocent and graceful4 ,one of the most distinguished literary ladies of this country once told us that she cultivated a love of her old-fashioned knitting1 because it gave employment for her hands1 which were so used to motion1 that she really felt uncomfortable when they were unemployed4 ,our friend is only singular in the homeliness of her taste in knitting useful stockings1 instead of pretty ornaments4 ,the ladies of almost every country we have ever seen appear most natural and charming when employed in some graceful task of needlework or knitting4 ,but a love of it is increasing1 and still increasing4 ,let gentlemen deride these pretty occupations if they please2 we know how much of a soothing influence lies in the dreamy habit of counting stitches1 and how many bright faculties are pleasantly exercised in arranging and matching colors4 ,on no occasion does a lady seem more lovely than when half occupied with some feminine art which keeps her fingers employed1 and gives an excuse for downcast eyes and gentle pre-occupation4 ,this sort of playing at work1 and working at play1 sheds a home feeling around the guests which no studied effort at hospitality can produce1 and forms habits of usefulness which consumes many an hour of idle time that might be put to far more harmful uses4 ,there is an air of tranquility1 and a proof of innocent contentment in these domestic accomplishments1 that have a beautiful significance in the family circle4 ,it is only in well regulated households that leisure moments are thus gathered up4 ,it is only minds composed and serene in their joy1 or submissive in sorrow1 that can constrain themselves to the gentle monotony of work like this4 ,with a crotchet-needle in the hand1 we join more pleasantly in conversation2 the little implement fills up all embarrassing pauses3 its use gives a feminine and domestic air1 which men may smile at1 but cannot condemn2 and1 under all circumstances1 it is better than counting beads1 like the modern ,greeks1 or flirting fans1 like the ,spanish belles--or flirting without fans1 as sometimes happens to ladies of all nations4 ,the time which any lady gives to ornamental needlework is usually made up of those leisure moments which would be lounged away on a sofa1 or in a rocking-chair2 and it is wonderful how many pretty objects start into existence1 that1 but for this taste1 would be dreamed away into nothingness4 ,of course1 no person of well regulated intellect would make a business of this graceful accomplishment1 unless compelled to exercise it for a subsistence4 ,we advocate it simply as an amusement1 like all recreation1 to be indulged in only when the more serious duties of life are disposed of4 ,but it has advantages not always recognized4 ,many a fine eye for colors has been cultivated into artistic perfection1 by the nice discrimination necessary to assort the tints of a worsted rose4 ,grouping may be learned from a close study of patterns1 and a thousand charming associations may be woven in with the forget-me-not or heart's-ease1 which we have wrought tremblingly into the canvass1 which a beloved eye was gazing upon4 ,without a gift for needlework1 what should we ladies do for appropriate mementos for our brothers1 husbands1 and friends1 at ,christmas time1 and when birthdays come round1 sounding their yearly remembrances upon our heartstrings8 ,what should we do for wedding cushions1 and christening robes1 when our favorite cousins insist upon becoming heads of families1 and useful members of society8 ,what excuse should we have for casting down our eyes1 when other people's eyes become troublesome8 ,every lady knows how many heart-tremors can be carried off in a vigorous twist of the crotchet-needle2 how many pleasant words may be innocently received in a sensitive heart1 when all its defensive faculties are busy counting stitches8 ,in short1 we persist in it1 that a feminine character cannot be quite perfect without a knowledge of all sorts of needlework1 and a down-right hearty love of it1 too4 ,for our part1 we have buried many a heart-ache in the growing leaves of a silken rose1 and blunted the sharp edge of pangs that would not be wrestled with by the sweet1 calm monotony of a shining bit of steel4 ,the delightful art of netting produces not only objects of beauty but of comfort so indispensable in our severe winters1 that the fair hand employed in netting may be deemed useful as our grandmothers' were when they seamed enormous quantities of yarn away in winter socks and stockings4 ,in our cold seasons1 when parties most prevail1 sleeves1 cuffs1 rigolettes1 and over-shoes of delicate ,berlin wool1 have saved many a fair form from colds and their consequent diseases1 which1 without such care1 prove so fatal when heated rooms are exchanged for the biting cold of a winter's night4 ,with soft warm cuffs1 or oversleeves1 to draw over the arms1 a snowy web of netting and tassels upon the head1 and shoes thickly wadded with silk1 drawn over the satin slippers1 added to the usual wrappers1 no lady need expose herself to cold though the atmosphere be at ,zero and her dress of gossamer1 with low neck and short sleeves4 ,it is not always that fashion blends so gracefully with taste and comfort1 as it does in these charming little trifles manufactured at odd moments1 from ,berlin wool1 by the fair hands of those who intend to present or wear them4 ,besides1 the fabrication of these articles is a pretty accomplishment that possesses a social value1 independent of time well employed1 and comfort secured4 ,knitting1 crochet work1 and the manufactory of lace are so connected and interwoven together that the history of one would be incomplete without the other4 ,we therefore go on from our familiar and pleasant talk about needlework as an accomplishment and give its history as a matter of trade4 ,in this point of view1 lace making is the most important1 and indeed so connected with the rest that we give concise history of its rise and progress in the world4 ,we have already spoken of needlework in its first rude condition1 when uncouth figures and a barbarian taste for gorgeousness prevailed without those powers that create harmonious beauty4 ,after these rude attempts at a first step in the arts1 it is not wonderful that improvements were made1 almost unconsciously1 and that the innate genius that existed then as now in the female bosom found at all times some imperfect means of expression through the needle1 which ended at last in those stitches1 that have since been combined into the fabric called lace4 ,it is certain that neither labor nor ingenuity was spared in the production of the magnificent borderings for robes1 often worked in gold and silver and various colors1 which are associated in our minds with the ancients on better grounds than mere tradition4 ,what1 then1 is more probable than that1 in the search for novelty and variety--as much an object of desire1 no doubt1 in that age as in our own--the idea should have presented itself to some tasteful eye of relieving the pattern of the fabric with occasional spaces1 either left wholly vacant1 or filled up with a web-like ground work8 ,this would1 in reality1 constitute lace1 however much it might differ from the delicate material known by that name in the present day4 ,whether the introduction of lace is referable to the classic ages or not1 certain it is that a very respectable degree of antiquity may be claimed for it4 ,it must be borne in mind that real or handmade lace is divided into two distinct classes3 first1 that worked with the needle1 which has for ages been known by the name of point1 and is but transparent embroidery2 and secondly that made on a hard cushion or pillow1 by the interweaving of numerous fine threads wound on wooden bobbins4 ,the latter method of lace making is comparatively of modern invention2 so that in the early history of the fabric it must be understood as referring solely to the point4 ,during the earlier periods at which the existence of lace is generally recognised1 it was exclusively worked in conventual institutions1 and applied to the adornment of church-furniture and the state-vestments of the priests4 ,had it been made in populous towns1 and formed an article of commerce1 more satisfactory information would have been here and there discovered2 but of those old isolated convents in ,spain and ,italy1 and of the habits and pursuits of their inhabitants1 little beyond vague tradition has descended to us4 ,there is every reason to suppose1 that during the thirteenth1 fourteenth1 and two following centuries1 the making of lace occupied the same important position in the daily employments of the nuns1 as the arts of copying illuminating manuscripts1 amongst the monks and friars4 ,it is singular that1 in later years1 the secrets connected with the manufacture of old point lace have been lost to us2 and that1 although ingenious imitations are by no means rare1 the authentic method of making it is quite unknown4 ,the substratum used1 or #8foundation1' as it is called1 would appear to have been fine linen1 though scarcely a thread is visible to the eye1 from the heavy embroidery upon it1 which here and there stands out in complete relief4 ,the pattern consisted of small sections of fantastic and varying outlines2 now a rather unnatural imitation of a flower1 now some quaint arabesque or mechanical form1 resembling nothing in the world but itself4 ,these being distinct from each other1 were united by delicate fibres made with the still common button-hole stitch2 and it is not easy for mere description to render justice to the beauty of the general effect4 ,it seems wonderful that so perfect a result could have been attained by following the impulse of the moment2 but still more difficult to believe that any design could have been invented so strange and capricious in character4 ,as for the untiring patience displayed in the execution1 we can only rejoice that it was believed to be in a good cause2 that the pious nuns could not foresee the desecration to which1 in the course of some few centuries1 their cherished productions were to be subjected4 ,when accident or necessity by degrees alienated the more valuable adornments of church-furniture1 they were applied to secular purposes2 and no doubt many a modern belle may have unconsciously displayed in a ball room a lace flounce which has adorned an image of the ,virgin1 or sought ineffectual protection from a draught by drawing around her a mantle of old point1 which has witnessed from the shoulders of a cardinal many a grand and imposing ceremony4 ,there are1 of course1 comparatively few specimens extant of this very antique lace1 properly described as ,spanish point2 and these few have in most cases been handed down to their possessors as valued heir-looms from generation to generation2 regarded with as much honest pride by the ladies of the line1 as the more valuable portion of the family heritage by their matter-of-fact husbands4 ,as the supply of old point can never be renewed1 and competition can never affect it1 its value naturally increases2 and when it can be bought at all1 it is only at a price that would be deemed extravagant by any other than a genuine lace-fancier4 ,it was not until the latter part of the fourteenth century1 that the world at large was indulged with more than an occasional glimpse of the beautiful fabric when displayed in the great festivals of the ,church2 but by that time some knowledge of the art had crept out of its holy hiding-places1 and had found its way amongst the merchants of one or two continental cities1 to whom its novelty and beauty could not fail to recommend it as a subject of extensive and profitable commerce4 ,it is true1 we do not hear of it at once as being in general use2 but ,rome was not built in a day1 neither was point lace to be produced at a wish4 ,the hands that made it had to be carefully instructed and exercised in their employment before any degree of perfection could be attained1 and then long and unwearyingly had they to pursue it before even the wealthier classes of society1 to whom alone it was attainable1 could be adequately supplied4 ,we meet with most frequent allusion to ,venice1 that great bazaar of the luxuries of the middle ages as the chief seat of the point lace manufacture in early times4 ,as this city certainly monopolised the most skilful artisans in every branch of ornamental handicraft1 and was the great emporium whence everything beautiful and costly was spread over the world1 it is by no means extraordinary that the establishment of lacemaking in other countries should be generally referred back to some wandering band from the city of the winged lion4 ,the character of the lace worn during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries differed in some respects from the conventual point1 if it may be so termed4 ,it was less massive1 and although1 certainly1 exhibiting no deficiency of work1 did not display that superabundance of adornment which distinguished the chiefs-d'uvre of the holy sisterhoods4 ,this is easily accounted for by the circumstance1 that the one kind was made for money by those whose bread depended on the work of their hands1 whilst the other was the chosen occupation of leisure hours1 and an outward demonstration of heart-service4 ,brussels1 which has during several centuries maintained a reputation wider and more extended than any other place1 may certainly in the present day be said to support and1 if possible1 extend the renown of its lace2 of this there are two distinct varieties1 easily recognisable by the initiated in such matters4 ,the more valuable and beautiful kind is that called pointe a l' aiguille1 or1 more commonly1 ,brussels point2 it is worked wholly with the needle1 and is1 as its name implies1 a very refined descendant of the ancient family of the points4 ,it was very much in vogue among the wealthier classes in ,england during the reigns of ,charles ,i4 and several succeeding monarchs1 and has been immortalised in ,vandyck's portraits of the martyr-king1 under the form of the beautiful pointed collar and cuffs which were dignified by the name of the artist4 ,fashion has1 in this case1 been more constant than usual1 since the taste for ,brussels point has continued so decidedly among us1 that we still monopolise a large proportion of the whole quantity made2 the other variety1 called ,brussels plait1 being more extensively used in ,france ,spain1 ,russia1 and other countries4 ,in the latter description of lace1 the flowers for the pattern are made separately on the pillow1 and afterwards attached to net4 ,it differs1 in fact1 but little from the best ,english ,honiton1 of which ,i shall speak hereafter4 ,in the lace called ,mechlin1 made at ,malines and ,antwerp1 there are some of those nice distinctions which render an account of the various productions of ,brussels unavoidably rather complicated4 ,mechlin lace is made entirely on the pillow1 and in one piece2 it can therefore be applied only to articles of limited size4 ,lappets or trimmings are the forms under which we generally see it2 and in these the exquisite delicacy of its texture can be thoroughly appreciated4 ,the chief peculiarity consists in the filmy lightness of the ground1 and in a thick plait-thread1 as it is called1 following the outline of the pattern1 and giving the effect of embroidery4 ,the next class of ,belgian lace1 called generally ,valenciennes1 will be familiar to most of our readers2 but they may be scarcely aware that the contributions of each of the six towns in which it is chiefly made offer some distinctive peculiarity1 which would enable a person accustomed to compare them to decide with certainty upon their birthplace4 ,the finest description is that which comes from ,ypres4 ,this town is acknowledged to excel in laces of the finest square ground and in the widest and most expensive kind2 its productions have been known in some instances to produce as much as ,l4#ej the yard4 ,although ,caen and ,bayeux were the principal seats of the blonde manufacture in ,france1 a variety was originated at ,chantilly1 which was brought to a higher perfection than any other1 and was proportionably higher in price4 ,it was extensively worn in ,england about thirty years ago1 but is now almost traditionary here4 ,the peculiarity of ,chantilly blonde consisted of the rich close pattern1 which contrasted with the filmy lightness of the ground4 ,it was chiefly woven for veils1 which then differed a good deal from our present idea of them3 they were simply squares surrounded by one of these deep heavy borders of irregular outline1 and also flowered over in the centre1 and were thrown over the bonnet1 completely enveloping the head and shoulders of the wearer4 ,this description may be recognised by any one who has #8assisted1' as the ,french say1 at the bringing to light of those treasures of by-gone days consigned by the changes in taste and fashion to the darkness and oblivion of a lumber-room4 ,among such articles would be most likely included a ,chantilly veil of gigantic dimensions1 or a collar of proportionate magnitude4 ,but although the general rage for ,chantilly has long past away1 it is still used in small quantities1 and is made of exquisite beauty1 as if thereby to retain with the very fastidious the favor it has lost among the great body of lacewearers4 ,we should be charmed to proceed with this history of lace making1 till the subject exhausts itself1 but our present book deals with it only so far as it throws light upon and is connected with the branch of art particularly under consideration4 ,crochet work has now become a branch of lace making to a considerable extent1 even in our country1 where it has been exclusively held as an accomplishment4 ,but however charmed we may be with the subject1 a regard for space must prevent us running off into a dull essay instead of giving the ways and means by which this particular class under consideration is to be fabricated--as a bad example to new beginners1 for if they indulge in such deviations among the stitches the workmanship will be a failure1 we can assure them4 ,but now we begin in sober earnest to explore the complicated mysteries of ,crochet work as an art4 ,,introduction4 ,in commencing our instructions in ,crochet ,work in all its variations1 we supply what certainly is a great want in the ,american ,household1 where some sort of fancy work is essential to the completion of those domestic circles which render an ,american home so cheerful4 ,in giving those general directions regarding terms and stitches1 which will1 we trust1 prove acceptable1 we have endeavored to be as concise and clear as the nature of the subject will admit4 8,the ,ladies' ,complete ,guide to ,crochet and ,needlework10 may therefore be regarded as a compendium both of choice and accurate receipts and of clear elementary instruction4 ,we will begin by giving those which are required for ,crochet1 and beg our fair readers to refer to them on any future occasion of doubt or difficulty4 ,,chain ,,stitch 7abbreviated into ch47 is the foundation stitch in crochet4 ,a loop of thread made on the hook1 and through this the thread is drawn1 forming the first chain stitch2 draw the thread through this one1 and a second is formed4 ,continue the process until you have done the required number4 ,,slip ,,stitch 7sl47 is a stitch chiefly used for the veinings of leaves1 and similar parts1 in imitations of ,honiton lace4 ,it serves1 also1 to carry the thread from one part to another1 without either breaking it off or widening the work4 ,insert the hook in the stitch next to that already on the needle 7unless the directions particularly say1 miss so many17 and draw the thread at once through both stitches4 ,repeat4 ,,single ,,crochet 7sc47--,insert the hook in the chain1 and draw the thread through it2 this forms a second loop on the hook4 ,draw the thread through these two by a single movement and the stitch will be completed4 ,,double ,,crochet 7dc47--,raise the thread over the hook1 so as to pass it round1 before inserting the latter in the chain2 draw the thread through1 and you will find three loops on the hook2 bring the cotton through two1 which makes one instead of those taken off4 ,thus two are still on the needle2 finish the stitch by drawing the thread through these4 ,,treble ,,crochet 7tc47 is a stitch precisely similar to the last2 but as the thread is passed twice round the hook before the insertion of the latter in the chain1 there will be four loops on1 when the thread is drawn through4 ,bring the thread three times through two loops to finish the stitch4 ,,long ,,treble ,,crochet 7l tc47 has the thread twisted three times round the hook1 before it is passed through the chain2 consequently1 it will require the thread to be drawn four times through two loops to finish the stitch4 ,to work ,,through a stitch1 is to draw the thread under instead of in it4 ,this is stronger than the usual method1 but not so neat2 it is1 therefore1 rarely used for anything but very open work4 ,,square ,,crochet is that which is made entirely in small squares1 those which form the pattern being closely filled in1 and the ground open4 ,open squares are formed thus3 #a dc4 #b ch41 miss #b1 repeated4 ,close squares contain three dc4 stitches1 thus3 #a c4 #a o41 would have #d dc4 #b ch4 ,every pattern in square crochet requires a foundation chain of stitches which can be divided by three and leave one over2 as it is obvious that if an open square were the last on the pattern1 a dc4 stitch would be required to form the square at the end4 ,sometimes a very large piece of work may be made in treble square crochet4 ,in this work1 a close square of #d tc4 stitches2 an open square1 #a tc4 #c ch4 miss #c4 ,this style requires the pattern to be divisible by four1 with one stitch over4 ,the stars1 daggers1 and asterisks used in printing knitting and crochet receipts signify that any stitches given between two similar marks are to be done as many times as directed2 thus1 #c dc4 #b ch4 three times1 means #c dc4 #b ch41 #c dc4 #b ch41 #c dc4 #b ch4 ,when one repetition occurs within another italics are used at each end of the part4 99 #a p4 #b k4 #a p4 #a k4 7a7 m4 #a1 k4 #a 7a7 #f times 99 #h times1 means that one complete pattern being finished1 when you have made #a1 knitted #a1 #f times1 #h of those patterns1 beginning again each time at the first 991 will be required for the round or row4 ,,honiton ,,lace ,,collar4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,the same sprigs and edgings may be used for a ,bertha1 or ,veil1 as they are complete in themselves1 and only require to be tastefully grouped and lightly sewed on ,italian net1 already cut into the form required4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #fj2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #bd2 eagle card-board gauge4 ,,for ,,the ,,border4--,make a chain of the length required1 taking care that there are so many sevens and two over4 #b sc4 on ch4 #e ch41 miss #e1 #b sc4 on #b ch4 repeat4 #bnd ,row4--#b sc4 on the other side of the chain1 #b dc4 #c tc41 #b dc41 in #e ch41 #b sc4 on same #b ch4 that were worked in the last row repeat4 #crd ,row4--#b slip on #b sc4 #a sc4 #c dc41 #a sc4 on #e ch4 #a slip on sc42 make a chain of #ab1 close for a loop1 and work round in sc41 #a slip on second sc4 stitch repeat4 ,do not make the loop of #ab at the last pattern4 ,,for ,,the ,,small ,,sprigs4--#af ch4 close in #eth for a loop1 leaving a stem of four2 work round the loop in sc41 #b ch4 in continuation of stem1 #ah ch41 close for loop1 round which work thus3 #c ch41 miss #b1 sc4 on #crd1 #c ch41 miss #b1 dc4 on #crd1 #c ch41 miss #a1 dc4 on #bnd twice1 #c ch41 miss #b1 dc4 on #crd1 #c ch4 miss #b1 sc4 on #crd1 #c ch41 miss #b1 slip stitch at the close of the loop2 work round in sc4 and down the #f ch4 of the stem4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,ladies ,,own ,,book1 ,,and ,,companion ,,to ,,the ,,work ,,table4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald1 ,,new-,,york ,,the ,,large ,,sprig4--#cj ch41 close for a loop1 and work round it thus3 #a sl41 #b sc4 dc4 all the rest but #c2 #b sc41 #a slip4 ,turn the work on the wrong side2 #af ch41 miss #c1 slip on #dth1 #d slip on the last #d of the chain2 #af ch41 miss #d1 slip on #eth1 #e times2 #d slip on last #d of the #af2 #ab ch41 miss #c1 slip on closing stitch2 work all round these loops in dc41 except the first and last stitches of each loop1 which must be sc4 ,this completes the flower3 #af ch41 on which work back1 #a sc4 #b dc4 in one chain1 #d times1 #a dc41 #i ch41 #a sc41 #g dc4 on the #i2 #a dc4 #a tc41 in next chain of #af2 #a dc41 in next2 #a sc4 in next2 #a slip in next2 slip back on the last #c stitches2 #f ch41 on which #a slip1 #a sc41 #h dc4 7the last of which will come on the #af ch47 2 #b sc41 #a slip1 leaving #b ch4 for the stem1 #h ch4 ,,shamrock4--#ba ch41 join in #gth for loop1 and slip #d on the last #d2 #aa ch41 join to the stitch which closed the loop2 slip back #d as before #aa ch41 join at the close of the loop1 and work all round in sc41 also #f sc4 on stem2 #bf ch4 slip #aa1 leaving #ad for stem2 work round the #aa thus3 #a slip1 #a sc41 #g dc41 #a sc4 #a slip1 on each side1 which forms a close leaf2 repeat leaf1 with #h ch4 for stem instead of #ad2 then another leaf close to it2 #h sc4 on #h ch4 of stem2 repeat the leaf2 #g sc4 on stem2 repeat the shamrock2 #g sc4 on stem2 repeat the leaf1 making a ch4 of #ad instead of #ab2 work in sc4 to the base of the flower2 fasten off4 ,honiton lace sprigs and edgings must be finished by running the ends of thread at the back with a fine sewing needle1 and then cutting them off4 ,to make hemstitch for the neck1 make a chain the required length1 and work thus3 #b ch4 miss #a1 #a dc4 ,this gives the circular form requisite for the neck of a collar4 ,,passion ,,flower ,,in ,,chenille ,,fig4 #b4 ,,materials4--,one piece of green chenille1 of a medium tint2 one of a very delicate green2 one of violet ditto2 and a small quantity of rather stout liteaux4 ,this last is a kind of fine wire1 used in making up flowers1 c4 ,the chenille is the fine kind termed chenille a broder4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #ad4 ,cut a piece of liteaux1 about a quarter of a yard long2 make a loop at one end of it1 occupying an eighth of the whole length1 and twist the wire1 to keep the round perfect2 on this loop work #af dc4 stitches with the lightest green or white chenille1 and on these another round of dc4 stitches4 ,repeat this seven times more2 so that on the length of liteaux eight of these petals are formed4 ,when all are done1 twist together the ends of every two1 and fasten them thus on a piece of liteaux1 as close together as possible4 ,then prepare the stamens and pistil4 ,twist some short pieces of liteaux1 into a form as nearly as possible resembling that of the natural pistil1 which1 it will be remembered1 has three branching arms4 ,cover this with pale green chenille4 ,the stamens are short pieces of liteaux1 some covered with violet1 and some with green chenille3 they are to be made of different lengths1 and the ends to be twisted round that of the pistil1 so that they may surround it4 ,then make a small ring of liteaux1 put it round the stamens and pistil1 and cover it with violet chenille1 when the centre of the flower is completed4 ,put round it the liteaux with the eight petals attached1 so that the ring of violet covers the joins4 ,work on a small wire ring two rounds of dark green chenille for the calyx1 in which place the flower4 ,twist the ends all together1 to form a stem1 and cover it with chenille of the same color4 ,,for ,,the ,,bud4--,work #bj tc4 stitches with the light green chenille on a bit of liteaux1 laying in another piece of wire at the edge4 ,draw the stitches rather together1 so as to form a cup1 in which put a morsel of cotton wool4 ,work on another bit of liteaux #af dc4 stitches with dark green chenille2 twist the ends together1 drawing the wire into the form of a leaf4 ,four of these make the calyx which is to surround the bud4 ,twist the ends together1 and cover the stem so formed with chenille4 ,,the ,,leaves4--,twist a piece of liteaux large enough to form the centre of a leaf1 and work round it in dc4 with the darkest green chenille1 taking care to make your stitches very close together4 ,work round this another row of the same chenille1 with a bit of very fine wire in the edge4 ,do all in dc4 except the first and last stitches1 which must be in sc4 ,twist the ends of the wires for a stem1 and cover with the same shade of chenille4 ,if these artificial flowers are to be used for a head dress1 four of them must be made1 and a sufficient number of leaves to form a drooping branch on each side of the hair4 ,for a bonnet1 they may be formed into a group4 ,to make a wreath of the present style1 unite the two sprays by either a coronet of leaves1 or a plait of lilac chenille4 ,for dark hair1 make flowers of scarlet chenille instead of lilac4 ,,card ,,basket ,,in ,,crochet ,,fig4 #c4 ,,materials4--,rich blue ,berlin wool1 two ounces2 gold colour and scarlet filoselle1 three-quarters of an ounce each2 fine window cord2 ,bone crochet hook4 ,form with the cord as small a round as you can for the commencement of the stand1 and continue to work in it1 round and round1 until all the flat part of the basket is done1 all in sc4 #ast round4--#ab stitches1 blue4 #bnd4--#ah ditto4 #crd4--#bd ditto4 #dth4--#cf ditto4 #eth4--#a gold1 #c blue1 #b gold1 #c blue1 #a gold4 #d times4 #fth4--#a gold1 #d blue1 #b gold1 #d blue1 #a gold14 #d times4 #gth4--#b gold1 #e blue1 #c gold1 #e blue1 #a gold14 #d times4 #hth4--#d gold 7the #ast on the #ast of last row17 #a blue1 #g gold1 #a blue1 #c gold4 #d times4 #ith4--#b gold1 #b scarlet on #a gold1 #c gold 7the centre on the single blue17 #b scarlet on #a gold1 #c gold on #c gold1 #b scarlet on #a gold1 #c gold1 #b scarlet on #a gold1 #a gold4 #d times4 #ajth4--#a gold on #ast gold of last row1 #c scarlet on two stitches1 #e gold1 #c scarlet on #b1 #a gold on centre of #c gold1 #c scarlet as before1 #e gold1 #c scarlet4 #d times4 #aath4--#b gold on #a1 #d scarlet1 #d gold on #c1 #d scarlet1 #b gold on #a1 #d scarlet1 #d gold on #c1 #d scarlet4 #d times4 #abth4--#c gold on #b1 #d scarlet1 #c gold on #b1 #d scarlet1 #f gold1 #d scarlet1 #c gold on #b1 #d scarlet1 #c gold on #b4 #d times4 ,thus it will be perceived1 the written instructions are for one exact quarter of each round4 ,after having done the last round1 do one entirely of scarlet2 cut off the cord at the end of the round1 and work a few stitches to conceal the termination of it4 ,,for ,,the ,,sides ,,of ,,the ,,basket4--,the rounds alternately blue and gold4 #ast ,round4--#a dc41 #c ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #bnd4--#a dc4 on centre of #c ch41 #c ch41 miss #c4 #crd4--,as last1 with #d ch4 between4 #dth4--,repeat1 with #e ch4 between4 #eth4--,as #dth4 #fth4--#e dc4 on #e ch41 #a ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #gth4--,sc4 all round1 with cord in as in the first part4 #hth4--#c sc4 on #c centre of #e1 #i ch41 miss #c1 repeat4 #ith4--,to be worked on the same row as the last1 #c sc4 on the #c missed1 #i ch41 miss #c2 repeat4 ,work these two rows in different colours1 and form a band of wire1 covered with ribbon or crochet1 to correspond2 conceal the fastening with bows4 ,,border ,,for ,,an ,,embroidered ,,quilt4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,knitted ,,embroidery4 ,,materials4--,knitting cotton1 white and ingrain pinks1 ,no4 #ab2 knitting needles1 ,no4 #ae2 eagle card-board gauge4 ,knitted ,embroidery1 of which the engraving shows a very simple specimen1 is a very novel and beautiful style of work4 ,in wool1 its effect rivals that of the costly chenille1 with the advantage of being washable2 and now that cottons are dyed of such exquisite colors1 they are also very suitable for it4 ,with the white cotton cast on #af stitches1 and purl a row4 #ast4--,w43 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #c1 k4 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 ,w4 k4 #d1 m4 #b1 k4 #b4 #bnd4--,w43 k4 #c1 p4 #a1 k4 #a1 p4 #c1 p4 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 white p4 #c1 k4 #d4 #crd4--,w43 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #e1 k4 #c ,p1 k4 #h ,w4 #dth4--,w43 k4 #b1 m4 #b1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 p4 #d1 p4 #a ,p41 ,w41 p4 #d1 k4 #d4 #eth4--,all white3 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #ab1 p4 #a1 k4 #b4 #fth4--,w43 k4 #f1 p4 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 #c ,w41 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 k4 #d ,w4 #gth4--,w43 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 #c ,w41 #a ,p41 #a ,w41 #a ,p41 ,w41 k4 #b t41 m4 #b1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b t4 #hth4--,w43 k4 #c1 p4 #a1 k4 #a1 p4 #c ,p41 #c ,w41 #c ,p41 ,w41 k4 #d4 #ith4--,w43 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 k4 #a ,p41 #e ,w41 #a ,p41 ,w41 k4 #e4 #ajth4--,all ,white3 cast off #b1 k4 #b1 p4 #i1 k4 #d4 ,repeat the pattern to the length required4 ,between these marks only the colors intermix4 ,,crochet ,,edging4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,like all other crochet patterns1 the size depends wholly on the materials employed4 ,for dress trimmings1 ,no4 #cj ,crochet cotton1 with crochet hook ,no4 #ai1 will be suitable2 or even finer cotton may be used4 ,but this pattern being particularly suitable for trimming curtains and so forth1 ,i recommend ,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #aj1 and steel crochet hook1 ,no4 #ad4 ,make a chain of #ae stitches1 and sc4 into the #fth of these to make a loop4 ,work under the upper half of this loop #h sc42 #aa ch42 form this loop as before1 leaving one chain between it and the last2 work #h sc4 in it2 do three more with #aa ch41 then one with #ae1 and so on throughout4 ,when sufficient is done for the piece required1 allowing for its diminishing by one-third1 work #g sc4 on the other side of every round1 and #a sc4 between4 ,on the five chain between every five work #b sc4 #crd ,row4--,begun at the same place as the last #c sc4 on the three centre stitches of the first loop1 #b ch41 #b sc4 on the centre stitches of the next #c loops1 with #b chain between1 #c sc4 on the last of the five1 and #d chain between2 repeat4 #dth4 ,worked the same way4 #c sc4 on the #c sc4 of last row1 #ac ch41 #c sc4 on #c sc4 of the fifth loop1 #d sc4 on #d ch42 repeat4 #eth4--#a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #fth4--,sc4 throughout4 ,when this is done1 work with a common needle and thread three bars of button-hole stitch1 to connect the three centre loops1 as seen in the engraving4 ,,punch',s ,,anti-,,macassar4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #aj2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ae2 eagle card-board gauge2 #acf ch4 ,the first four rows in open square crochet4 #eth4--#ai o41 #a c41 #be o41 #a dc4 #fth4--#af o41 #d c41 #g o41 #a c41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #gth4--#af o41 #d c41 #d o41 #d c41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #hth4--#ag o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #d o41 #d c41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #ith4--#ah o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #e dc41 #e o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #f dc41 #a ch41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #ajth4--#ah o41 #c c41 #c o41 #d c41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #aath4--#ac o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #f dc41 #a ch41 #a o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #aa dc41 #b ch41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #d c41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #abth4--#ac o41 #c c41 #b o41 #c;c4 #b o41 #d c41 #ah o41 #a dc4 #acth4--#ab o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #ab dc41 #a ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 #aa dc41 #a ch41 #ah o41 #a dc4 #adth4--#ab o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #da dc41 #b ch41 #ah o41 #a dc4 #aeth4--,as #adth4 #afth4--#ac o41 #dc dc41 #b ch41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #agth4--#ad o41 #dc dc41 #b ch41 #af o41 #a dc4 #ahth4--#ad o41 #df dc41 #b ch41 #ae o41 #a dc4 #aith4--#ad o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #dg dc41 #b ch41 #ad o41 #a dc4 #bjth4--#ae o41 #df dc41 #b ch41 #ad o41 #a dc4 #bast4--#ae o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #dd dc41 #b ch41 #ad o41 #a dc4 #bbnd4--#aa o41 #eg dc41 #a ch41 #ad o41 #a dc4 #bcrd4--#ae o41 #fa dc41 #b ch41 #i o41 #a dc4 #bdth4--#af o41 #df dc41 #b ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #beth4--#af o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #de dc41 #a ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #bfth4--#ag o41 #dd dc41 #a ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #bgth4--#ah o41 #da dc41 #a ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #bhth4--#af o41 #dg dc41 #a ch41 #ac o41 #a o4 #bith4--,like #bhth4 #cjth4--#af o41 #dh dc41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #cast4--#af o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #bi dc41 #b ch41 #af o41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #cbnd4--#ad o41 #ce dc41 #a ch41 #a o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #ad dc41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #ccrd4--#ad o41 #cd dc41 #b ch41 #b o41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #cdth4--#ae o41 #ca dc41 #b ch41 #b o41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #ceth4--#af o41 #ca dc41 #b ch41 #a o41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 #ab o41 #a dc4 #cfth4--#ae o41 #cg dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #i dc41 #a ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #cgth4--#ab o41 #g dc41 #b ch41 #cg dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #g dc41 #b ch41 #ac o41 #a dc4 #chth4--#ab o41 #cd dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #e dc41 #a ch41 #b o41 #e dc41 #a ch41 #ad o41 #a dc4 #cith4--#ab o41 #cg dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #djth4--#ac o41 #cd dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #dast4--#ad o41 #aj dc41 #b ch41 #af dc41 #b ch41 #ba o41 #a dc4 #dbnd4--#ad o41 #a dc41 #a ch41 #ce dc41 #b ch41 #ah o41 #a dc4 #dcrd4--#ae o41 #cb dc41 #a ch41 #ai o41 #a dc4 #ddth4--#ad o41 #cd dc41 #b ch41 #ai o41 #a dc4 #deth4--#ae o41 #bh dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #dfth4--#af o41 #be dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #dgth4--,like #dfth4 #dhth4--#ag o41 #bb dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #dith4--#ah o41 #ai dc41 #b ch41 #bj o41 #a dc4 #ejth4--#ah o41 #ai dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #g dc41 #b ch41 #af o41 #a dc4 #east4--,like #ejth4 #ebnd4--#ai o41 #af dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #d dc41 #b ch41 #ag o41 #a dc4 #ecrd4--#bj o41 #ai dc41 #b ch41 #ah o41 #a dc4 #edth4--#ba o41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 #ai o41 #a dc4 #eeth to #ehth inclusive1 in open squares4 ,,border ,,for ,,the ,,anti-,,macassar1 which must have a row of sc4 up each side previously done to fasten in the threads4 #ast4--#a dc4 over dc41 of the ,anti-,macassar1 #b ch41 #g dc4 in next dc41 #c ch41 #a dc4 in same stitch4 2 repeat all round4 #bnd4--,sc4 in the centre of the #c ch4 of last round1 #i ch41 sc4 in centre of the next1 2 repeat4 #crd4-- ,sc4 on #ast of #i ch41 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 on #crd1 #d ch41 miss #a1 #a dc4 on #bnd4 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a sc4 on the last of the #i1 2 repeat4 ,,deep ,,lace ,,in ,,crochet4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,for ,,anti-,,macassars1 ,,etc4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #ab2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ad or #ae4 ,make a chain the required length4 #ast ,row in sc4 #bnd4--#a tc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 repeat4 #crd4--#a dc41 #g ch41 miss #c1 dc4 in #dth2 repeat4 #dth4-- ,sc4 in centre of #g ch41 #g ch41 2 repeat4 #eth1 #fth1 and #gth4--,like #dth4 #hth4-- ,sc4 in centre of #g ch41 2 #i ch41 sc4 in same stitch1 twice #c ch41 miss #c1 dc4 on #dth4 #c ch41 miss #c1 2 repeat4 #ith4--,sc41 miss every sc4 stitch of last row4 #ajth4-- sc4 on point of the next loop1 #c ch41 sc4 on point of the next loop1 #g ch41 repeat4 #aath4-- ,sc4 on centre of #g ch41 #i ch41 sc4 in same stitch1 twice #i ch41 2 repeat4 #ab4-- #i sc4 on #i ch42 then1 on the first loop of #i1 work #a sc41 #b dc41 #f tc41 #b dc41 #a sc43 then make the flower thus3 #ab ch41 slip in #fth for a loop1 #e ch41 #a sc4 under loop1 #d times2 work these #d loops in sc41 missing all the previous sc4 stitches1 then the #e ch4 that were left of the #ab2 #a sc41 #b dc41 #f tc41 #a sc4 on #bnd loop of #i1 2 repeat4 ,,tatted ,,insertion4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,suitable ,,for ,,cuffs1 ,,bands1 ,,etc4 ,,materials4--,white cotton braid1 ,no4 #i2 ,crochet ,no4 #gj1 and tatting-cotton1 ,no4 #c4 ,,for ,,the ,,tatting4--#f double stitches2 make a picot with a fine pin2 #c double stitches1 #a picot1 #c double stitches1 #a picot1 #f double stitches4 ,draw this loop up1 and leave a space as great as that indicated in the engraving before making the next4 ,when a sufficient quantity of this is done1 take a piece of colored paper1 rather longer than you require the insertion to be1 and on it rule two parallel lines1 an inch apart1 and another exactly between them4 ,take on the tatting1 allowing it to touch1 alternately1 each outer line2 then back again in the same manner1 so that the threads cross at the centre line1 and form a hexagonal space between every two tatted loops4 ,braid the outer lines and the ends2 and if the piece be intended for a cuff1 put a double line of braid at one end for the buttons1 and also two braid loops at the other1 for button-holes4 ,a long needleful of ,crochet1 ,no4 #gj1 must then be taken along the centre line1 connecting the cross lines with a button-hole stitch wherever they occur4 ,then work a rosette of ,english lace in every space1 and another when the four threads cross each other4 ,the tatting edging is made without picots1 and lightly sewed on the outer edges of the braid1 both sides of which should then be finished with a row of ,venetian edging4 ,,anti-,,macassar4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,laurestina ,,leaf ,,pattern4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #h2 knitting needles1 ,no4 #ac4 ,cast on any number of stitches you like1 which can be divided by #af1 and #f over for the border4 ,knit three plain rows4 #ast4--,k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #b1 twice for every pattern1 k4 #c4 #bnd4 and every alternate4 ,knit the three first and last stitches1 and purl all the remainder4 #crd4--,k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t4 pass the slip stitch over k4 #a4 twice for each pattern1 k4 #c4 #eth4--,k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 twice as before2 repeat and k4 #c4 #gth4--,k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a4 twice for each pattern1 k4 #c4 #ith4--,k4 #c1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b 2 repeat to the last #c k4 #c4 #aath4--,k4 #c1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k14 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 m4 #a1 r4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 r4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 2 repeat to the last1 #c1 k4 #c4 #acth4--,k4 #c1 #a k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 k4 #c t41 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 k4 #b t4 4 ,repeat k4 #c4 ,footnote #a3 ,instead of knitting two together at the beginning and end of the pattern1 in this and the following rows1 the worker will find that she must knit three together in the body of the ,anti-,macassar and at the beginning and end of the row1 only as directed in the text4 #aeth4--,k4 #c1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 k4 #c t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 2 repeat1 k4 #c4 #agth4--,k4 #b1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #e2 m4 #a1 k4 #c t41 4 ,repeat to the end of the row1 when you will knit #c together1 and then #c of the border4 ,repeat from #gth to #ahth rows inclusive1 until sufficient is done2 then knit #c plain rows1 and fasten off4 ,,border ,,for ,,anti-,,macassar4--,same cotton and needles4 ,cast on #ag stitches4 #ast4--,slip #a1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over2 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a4 #bnd4--,k4 #a1 purl all but five1 k4 #e4 #crd4--,slip #a1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a4 #dth4--,like #bnd4 #eth4--,slip #a1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a4 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a4 #fth4--,like #bnd4 #gth4--,slip #a1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k #a4 #hth4--,cast off #e1 purl all the remainder1 except the last five1 which knit plain4 ,,net ,,for ,,the ,,hair4 ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,materials4--,three good skeins of scarlet or blue netting silk2 elastic ribbon and tassels to correspond2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ab4 ,make #f chain1 and form them into a round4 #ast4--#a tc4 into every chain1 and #a ch41 after every tc41 thus making #ab stitches in the round4 #bnd4--#a tc4 on one chain1 #c ch41 miss tc4 stitch4 ,repeat4 #crd4-- #a tc4 on the centre of the loop1 #e ch41 repeat4 #dth4-- #a tc4 on centre of loop1 #g ch4 repeat4 #eth to #ajth rounds inclusive4--,like the last1 increasing two chain at every round1 so that #i ch4 are made in the #eth1 and #ai in the #ajth round4 #aath4--#c tc41 #c ch41 miss #c4 ,repeat4 #abth4-- #c tc4 on #c ch41 #c ch41 miss #c1 repeat4 #acth4-- #d tc41 #d ch41 miss #d1 repeat4 #adth4-- #d tc4 on #d ch41 #e ch41 miss #d1 repeat4 ,the elastic ribbon is to be run in the #aath round1 and tassels fastened to hang over the ear4 ,,berlin ,,work ,,and ,,canvas ,,embroidery4 ,it being one of the chief objects of the ,proprietors of this little work1 to present to the reader1 in a very portable form1 the clearest and most accurate elementary instructions for every kind of fashionable ,needlework1 ,i have selected ,,berlin ,,work or ,,canvas ,,embroidery as the subject for explanation in this part4 ,berlin work is the general term for what might perhaps be more properly termed embroidery on canvas2 a material with which1 doubtless1 most of my readers are well acquainted1 although they may not be familiar with the names of the different kinds and sizes4 ,,the ,,french ,,canvas1 7sometimes called ,patent7 is the one which ,i prefer for all ordinary purposes4 ,the open squares are very exact1 and the threads and selvage usually firm and strong4 ,it is the only kind that is suitable for large pieces1 or for wreaths1 or any thing else1 in fact1 in which squareness and strength are essential4 ,,penelope ,,canvas has the threads placed two and two in both directions2 and took its name1 ,i presume1 from the appearance it presents of having been worked1 and the work picked out again1 like that of the faithful wife of ,ulysses4 ,as all trouble of counting the threads is saved1 it is very easy to work on1 but can only be worked in cross-stitch4 ,,german ,,canvas differs from the ,french in having every tenth thread a different color1 and not being so true a square in the mesh4 ,it is altogether inferior to the ,french 7or patent72 and1 7amongst other disadvantages17 has that of showing the colored thread through any light wool4 ,still1 as it obviates1 in some degree1 the trouble of counting1 many people like to work on it4 ,,silk ,,canvas is a very expensive article2 but it saves much labor1 as designs worked on it do not require to be grounded4 ,i should never advise any but white silk canvas being used1 as the colored ones do not wear well4 ,there are so many different qualities of silk canvas1 that none should be bought without careful examination1 by laying something of an opposite tint underneath it1 and thus detecting any irregularities1 roughnesses1 c41 good silk canvas should be perfectly even4 ,canvas is made of almost every variety of width2 the narrow silk canvas being the proper size for braces4 ,canvas is chosen according to its size1 being numbered much like cotton1 according to the number of threads in the inch4 ,we seldom require a coarser size than ,no4 #h1 which contains #aa threads to the inch--#aj has #ac1--;and so on to #bd1 which has #bg threads4 ,the next number1 #cj1 has #ca threads1 #dj has #ce1 and #ej1 #cg4 ,we seldom use any finer than this4 ,there are not so many sizes manufactured of either silk or ,penelope canvas2 and the former is never made so coarse as the cotton article4 ,the surface of canvas is covered by being worked with various substances1 of which silks1 wools1 chenille1 and beads1 may be considered the principal4 ,beads are now very much used1 intermingled with silks and wools4 ,for grounding large articles a new and very beautiful kind of wool has lately been introduced1 termed filoselle4 ,it works in admirably1 and imparts a very rich effect to a design4 ,it is about the size of ,berlin wool which is fresh and good4 ,for finer articles floss silk is common1 and chenille may be worked on silk canvas with excellent effect4 ,berlin wool may be used for almost any purpose2 for1 if too coarse1 it can be split without injury2 and if the reverse1 two or three threads may be worked together4 ,it should never be wound1 for however lightly done it is certain to be injured4 ,fleecy wool has been greatly improved both in texture and dye of late years1 and may now be used for groundings and those purposes for which1 formerly1 it would have been quite unsuitable4 ,it is much cheaper than ,berlin wool4 ,english1 or ,embroidery wool1 is a much stronger substance than ,berlin2 the dark shades are excellent for the ground of large pieces1 but the lighter tints are not equal to those in the ,berlin wool4 ,the chenille used for embroidery is called chenille a broder1 to distinguish it from the chenille ordinaire1 which is much coarser4 ,the effect of flowers1 birds and butterflies1 worked in chenille1 is rich and beautiful in the extreme1 but the pile so easily attracts dust1 and is so liable to injury1 that it should be used only for articles which will be defended by glass4 ,the needle used for chenille should have round eyes1 and be sufficiently large to prepare a passage in the satin or canvas through which the chenille may pass without injury4 ,,the ,,stitches ,,used ,,in ,,berlin ,,work4 ,there are but five stitches for canvas work1 although many others are enumerated2 for they are but varieties of the following3 ,,cross-,,stitch1 ,,tent-,,stitch1 ,,irish-,,stitch1 ,,german-,,stitch1 ,,gobelin ,,or ,,tapestry ,,stitch4 ,,cross-,,stitch is worked by bringing up the needle on the left hand1 crossing two straight and two perpendicular lines1 and putting in the needle on the right2 bring the needle up on the right again1 in the space which forms a right angle with the two already occupied2 cross the first thread1 and bring the needle under on the left hand again4 ,when grounding is done in this stitch1 take care to avoid all appearance of lines and joins by using unequal length of wool1 finishing each stitch before the next is begun4 ,grounding should be begun at the left hand lower corner and worked upwards4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,ladies ,,own ,,book1 ,,and ,,companion ,,to ,,the ,,work ,,table4 ,,part ,,iii4 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald1 ,,new-,,york ,,four ,,tent-,,stitches1 just occupy the space of one cross-stitch a tent-stitch being taken diagonally from one space to the next above it to the left4 ,,tent-,,stitch and ,,cross-,,stitch are distinguished among the ,french by the names of ,petit point and ,gros point4 ,,irish-,,stitch is extremely simple1 and very rapidly done4 ,it consists of a series of upright stitches which cross the horizontal lines1 and are worked between the perpendicular ones4 ,for the first line1 7beginning at the left hand corner17 bring up the needle in the lowest vacant space1 and put it down in the fourth above it1 allowing it to cover four bars of thread2 bring up the needle on the line with the first stitch1 with one upright thread between1 and down on the third space1 the wool covering two threads4 ,repeat these alternate short and long stitches1 throughout the line4 ,the next and following lines1 every stitch must cover four threads2 and as you bring out the needle in the space in which you brought it down in the last row1 the stitches are still alternately two threads higher than the intermediate ones4 ,,german ,,stitch is very similar to the above2 but the stitches are taken diagonally4 ,the first stitch is taken from one space to the next diagonal one2 in the second1 one space is missed2 so that the stitches are alternately long and short4 ,all the following rows are worked like the first1 care being taken that the long stitches of one row shall join the short1 and vice versa4 ,this stitch is only used for grounding4 ,,gobelin ,,stitch is that which is more peculiarly fitted for delicate and beautiful picture working2 but the needle requires a really artistic hand to direct it in forming patterns in this stitch4 ,the wool crosses two threads in height1 but only one in width2 two tapestry stitches therefore1 are equal to a cross-stitch1 remembering that the square so formed is not a true one4 ,some writers enumerate other stitches on canvas2 but the best authors reckon the above named only1 all others being merely varieties of them4 ,you will observe that any pattern may be made larger or smaller than the original when worked1 simply by selecting the canvas that will effect the requisite alteration4 ,when you choose your ,berlin pattern1 consider what size you will desire your work to be1 and calculate by the scale ,i have already given you1 what canvas will be needed2 and also whether it will require to be worked in tent-stitch or in cross-stitch4 ,if for the former you may reckon a thread of canvas for every square4 ,for the most part1 ,berlin patterns are intended to be worked in tent-stitch2 but some have each square in the more delicate parts divided into four4 ,when this is the case1 the mass must be worked in cross1 and the fine parts in tent-stitch2 otherwise it is quite optional4 ,i must repeat my previous caution not to attempt ,berlin patterns on ,german canvas4 ,figure pieces especially1 would suffer materially in the effect from the want of squareness in the canvas4 ,it is not advisable to attempt reducing very materially a pattern crowded with subjects2 nor1 on the other hand1 to enlarge one that has few4 ,the reason of this is obvious4 ,,to ,,frame ,,canvas4 ,there is considerable art in doing this properly2 and if negligently arranged1 it is certain that the work will be distorted when complete4 ,turn down the canvas and herring-bone it at each raw edge3 then sew it to the webbing of the frame1 thread by thread4 ,when the first end is sewed1 take care that the other end shall be as nearly as possible opposite it4 ,if too large for the frame1 wrap some clean silver paper several times round the roller1 before the canvas goes round it4 ,the part where the pattern is to be begun is the only part to be exposed in the frame4 ,the sides must then be tightly braced with fine twine2 and the canvas is then ready for the work4 ,berlin work is often done on canvas1 with cloth1 satin or velvet underneath it3 this saves the labor of grounding1 as the pattern being worked1 the superfluous canvas is cut away1 and the embroidery appears on the solid material4 ,some people draw out the threads of the canvas3 this is not only very troublesome1 but it also spoils the effect of the work4 ,small intermediate spaces of canvas1 not covered with embroidery1 are usually grounded with wool exactly the color of the cloth4 ,in framing cloth and canvas together1 it must be borne in mind that the former stretches considerably more than the latter4 ,if therefore1 they are intended to be the same size1 the cloth must be cut rather narrower1 and 7the edges being turned in17 must be firmly tacked to the selvages of the canvas4 ,this will1 of course1 render the edges thicker than the centre2 and to equalize the height1 paper should be wrapt round the roller4 ,all patterns should be commenced at the left hand corner1 unless they are intended for a centre2 when the work must be begun on the centre stitch4 ,delicate grounds should never be attempted on any but perfectly white canvas2 and black grounds should always be avoided1 if practicable4 ,the last direction ,i can give is to ensure a proper quantity of wool to begin with2 as there is often great difficulty in matching shades1 especially for grounding4 ,,needles4 ,the needles principally used are tapestry needles1 which are thick and blunt and have a long open eye1--,sharps1 which are similar needles with sharp points1 and are used for working on thicker substances than canvas1--as cloth1 c42 and short long eyes1 which are used for the same purpose1 and are like common needles1 but very short1 and with long eyes4 ,,crochet ,,collar4 ,,see ,,fig4 #a1 ,,frontispiece4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #cj4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bj1 or #ba4 ,make #cbj chain4 #ast4-- #b tc4 in one chain1 #a ch41 miss #a 4 ,repeat4 #bnd4-- #a tc4 under every chain1 #c ch41 miss #b tc4 4 ,repeat4 #crd4-- ,sc4 in every alternative loop of #c ch41 #h ch4 2 repeat4 #dth and #eth4-- sc4 through every loop with #h ch4 between 4 ,repeat4 #fth4--dc4 in every loop4 #gth4-- #aj tc41 #a ch41 #aj tc41 without missing any2 #h ch41 miss #f1 #a dc41 #h ch41 miss #f 1 #ab times1 but ending with the #bnd #aj tc4 #hth4--#aj tc4 on first #aj of last row1 #b ch41 miss #a1 #i tc41 #h ch41 #a tc4 on dc41 #h ch41 #i tc41 beginning on the #bnd of #aj1 #b ch41 miss #a1 #i tc4 #aj times1 #h ch41 #a tc4 on dc41 #h ch41 #i tc4 7beginning on the #bnd71 #b ch41 miss #a1 #aj tc4 #ith4--#aj tc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #h tc4 #f ch41 #a tc4 on tc41 #d ch41 #a tc4 on the same1 #f ch41 #h tc41 beginning on the #bnd of last row1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #h tc4 #aj times2 #f ch41 #a tc4 on tc41 #d ch41 #a tc4 on same1 #f ch41 #h tc4 7beginning on #bnd of last row71 #b ch41 miss #b1 #aj tc4 #ajth4--#aj tc41 miss #b1 #c ch41 #e tc41 #f ch41 #a tc4 in loop1 99 #d ch41 #a tc4 in the same loop 99 twice1 #f ch41 #e tc4 7beginning on #crd71 #c ch41 miss #b1 #e tc4 #aj times1 #f ch41 #a tc4 into loop1 #d ch41 #a tc4 into same1 twice1 #f ch41 #e tc4 7beginning on #crd71 #c ch41 miss #b1 #aj tc4 #aath4--#af tc4 in #af successive stitches1 #f ch41 #a tc4 into first loop 99 #d ch41 #a tc4 into the same loop1 99 twice1 #a tc4 into the next loop1 #d ch41 #a tc4 into same1 twice2 #f ch41 #i tc4 in #i successive stitches1 beginning on the #crd of the previous row1 #aj times2 #f ch41 #a tc4 into first loop1 #d ch41 #a tc4 into the same1 twice2 #a tc4 into the next1 7a7 #d ch41 #a tc4 into the same 7a71 twice2 #f ch41 #af tc4 #abth4--#ad tc4 #f ch41 tc4 into first loop1 #d ch41 #a tc41 into the same2 #aj ch41 #a tc4 into the last loop1 #d ch41 #a tc4 into the same1 #f ch41 #e tc4 7beginning on #crd71 #aj times2 #f ch41 #a tc4 into #ast loop1 #d ch4 #a tc4 into the same1 #aj ch41 #a tc4 into the last loop1 #d ch41 #a tc4 into the same1 #f ch41 #ad tc4 #acth4--#ab tc41 #f ch41 99 #a tc41 #d ch41 99 #aj times through the #aj ch42 #f ch41 #c tc41 #aj times2 #f ch41 #a tc41 #d ch4 through #aj ch41 #aj times2 #f ch41 #ab tc4 #adth4--#aj tc4 #f ch41 #a tc4 under the #f ch4 of the last row2 #d ch41 #a tc42 repeat into each loop2 #d ch41 #a tc4 under the #f ch41 #f ch41 #a dc4 on centre of #c tc41 #aj times2 #f ch41 #a tc4 under previous #f ch41 #d ch41 #a tc4 in every loop as before2 #d ch41 #a tc4 under #f ch41 #f ch41 #aj tc4 #aeth4--,sc4 on end of the first row1 #i ch41 sc4 on #crd row1 #i ch41 sc4 on #eth row1 #i ch41 sc4 on #hth row1 #i ch41 sc4 on #ajth row1 #i ch41 sc4 on #abth row1 #aj ch41 sc4 on first tc4 stitch of last row1 #aj ch41 sc4 on #hth tc4 #d ch41 tc4 under #f ch4 #d ch41 #a tc4 into each loop1 repeat until you come to the last #i tc4 stitches1 then repeat backwards from before the #d ch4 to the commencement of the row4 #afth4--,sc4 #aj ch41 sc4 into every loop1 until you come to the one of #d ch42 then work #e dc4 into every loop1 #aj ch4 to the last #d ch4 ,end as you began4 #agth4--,sc4 #aa ch41 sc4 in every loop until you come to the #e dc42 then #d ch41 sc4 through every loop1 to the last #e dc4 ,make the second end to correspond with the first4 ,those who crochet very loosely should use a hook still smaller than the one ,i have recommended2 as the collar1 to look well1 should be done very tightly4 ,,knitted ,,lace ,,undersleeve4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #dj2 #b steel knitting needles1 ,no4 #bj4 ,cast on #aja stitches4 ,purl one row4 #ast4--,knit #a1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #a 1 repeat4 #bnd4--,purled4 ,knit from #ej to #fj rows in this manner1 and cast off4 ,this forms one puffing2 and1 of course1 for a pair of sleeves1 you will require four4 ,,for ,,the ,,insertion4--,cast on #ac stitches2 knit one row1 purl #a1 knit #a1 purl #a2 then begin the pattern4 #ast4--,k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t4 #bnd1 and every alternate row4--,k4 #c1 p4 #g1 k4 #c4 #crd4--,k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t4 #eth4--,k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t4 #gth4--,k4 #a1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice4 #hth4--,as #bnd1 which completes the pattern4 ,do as much of this as may be required for the wrists1 allowing a few plain rows at the end to set a button on2 and also two pieces to be inserted between the puffs1 which must be put rather full into the bands4 ,at the top of the upper puff1 sew on a muslin band1 which may be tacked in the dress4 ,according to the present style of sleeves1 the ruffle should not fall over the hand1 but should be sewed at the other edge of the wristband with the puff1 on which it must fall back4 ,for cold weather1 an undersleeve of sarsenet1 made of the same dimensions as the knitted one1 and tacked under it1 will be found a very great improvement1 and if of a colour that will harmonise with the dress1 will be very becoming4 ,,knitted ,,lace ,,ruffle4--,cotton ,no4 #ej2 ,needles1 ,no4 #bb4 ,cast on #ag stitches4 #ast ,row4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #b1 k4 #b t41 m4 #b1 k4 #b4 #bnd4--,k4 #c1 p4 #a1 k4 #b1 p4 #a1 k4 #c1 p4 #e1 k4 #e4 #crd4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a41 k4 #aj4 #dth4--,k4 #b1 m4 #b1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #b41 k4 #b t41 k4 #b1 p4 #c1 k4 #f4 #eth4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #c t41 m4 #a1 k4 #d1 p4 #a1 k4 #d1 p4 #a1 k4 #b4 #fth4--,k4 #ab1 p4 #c1 k4 #f4 #gth4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b1 m4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 #c t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #b1 k4 #b t41 k4 #b t4 #hth4--,k4 #c1 p4 #a1 k4 #b1 p4 #a1 k4 #c1 p4 #e1 k4 #e4 #ith4--,like #crd4 #ajth4--,cast off #c1 k4 #f1 p4 #b1 m4 #a1 p4 #b t41 p4 #a1 k4 #e4 ,this lace should be put on rather full2 and on no account should knitted articles be ironed by the laundress4 ,it is quite sufficient to pull them into proper shape whilst they are drying at the fire4 ,,insertions ,,in ,,embroidery4 ,,figs4 #g #h4 ,suitable for the fronts of shirts1 and for other purposes2 to be worked in satin stitch1 with embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,the centres of the leaves and cups of the flowers may be done in very small eyelet-holes4 ,the stalks sewn over with extreme neatness4 ,,table ,,mat4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,,materials4--,shaded green and scarlet #h thread ,berlin wool2 bone crochet hook4 ,make a chain of six and form it into a round4 #ast ,round4--#ab dc4 #bnd4--#d ch41 miss #a sc4 in #bnd4 stitch2 repeat all round4 #crd4--,like #bnd4 #d4--,scarlet wool2 #f ch41 sc4 under the loop of #d ch42 repeat4 #eth4--#g ch41 sc4 under #f ch4 of former round2 repeat4 #fth4--#i ch4 worked as before4 #gth4--#ab ch4 worked as before3 fasten off the scarlet and begin with the green wool once more4 #hth4--#ab tc4 on #ab ch4 of last round1 miss sc4 stitch2 repeat4 #ith4--,sc4 on #bnd4 stitch1 #b ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #ajth4-- #a tc41 #c ch41 miss #c 2 repeat4 #aath4-- #a tc41 on tc4 of last round1 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #abth4-- ,dc4 on #d ch4 of last round1 #a ch4 2 repeat4 #acth4--,scarlet wool1 #d tc4 on #d dc4 of last round1 #a ch42 repeat4 #adth-- #i dc4 on #i stitches1 of last round1 #i ch41 dc4 into same stitch as the last 2 repeat4 #aeth4--#f ch41 sc4 in #crd dc4 of last round2 repeat this twice more2 #h ch41 unite into the loop formed by #i ch4 in last round2 three times more1 then repeat from the commencement of the #aeth round4 #afth4--,sc4 in centre loop of #h ch4 in scallop2 #a ch41 sc4 into centre loop of #h ch4 in next scallop1 #aa ch42 repeat4 #agth4--#ab ch41 sc4 in third stitch2 repeat4 #ahth4--#ab dc4 through every chain of #ab in last round4 #aith4--#e ch4 unite with sc4 on the point of the loop2 repeat4 #bjth--,dc4 all round1 and fasten off4 ,,gentlemen',s ,,knitted ,,braces4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,materials4--,rich1 dark blue1 or crimson crochet silk2 two knitting needles1 ,no4 #ad4 ,cast on #ai stitches4 #ast4 ,row4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 p4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 p4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 p4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 m14 #a1 k4 #b4 #bnd4--,p4 #e1 k4 #a1 p4 #b1 k4 #a1 p4 #b1 k4 #a1 p4 #e4 #crd4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 p4 #a1 k4 #b t41 p4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #dth4--,p4 #f1 k4 #a1 p4 #a1 k4 #a1 p4 #a1 k4 #a1 p4 #f4 #eth4--,k14 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 p4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #fth4--,p4 #h1 k4 #a1 p4 #h4 #gth4--,k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k14 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #hth4--,purled4 ,repeat this pattern until you have done the length required for one half of the braces4 ,then cast on1 and do another length4 ,when made up1 they should be lined with white ,petersham ribbon1 and finished with white kid trimmings4 ,,small ,,gimps ,,in ,,crochet ,,fig4 #e4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #f2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ah4 ,no4--#a4--,make a chain the length required and then work back in dc4 ,this is a very neat little trimming for children's dresses2 and if required to be made of silk and purse twist be used1 will be found to answer every purpose for which a narrow gimp may be required4 ,it forms also an excellent substitute for the braid which is run on the skirt of a dress1 as the wools of which it should then be made1 can be procured of any shade whatever1 which the braid itself cannot4 ,no4 #b4--,make a chain of the length required1 and on it work #a dc41 #a ch1 miss #a4 ,,judy',s ,,anti-,,macassar4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,materials4--,crochet cotton1 ,no4 #aj2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #af4 #acc ch4 ,four rows of open square crochet4 #eth4--#bj os41 #d dc41 #c ch41 miss #c1 #ab dc41 #b ch41 #ag os41 #a dc4 #fth4--#aj os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c os41 #i dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ba os41 #a dc4 #gth4--#aj os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ei dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ac os41 #a dc4 #hth and #ith4--,the same4 #ajth4--#aa os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ed dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ad os41 #a dc4 #aath1 #abth1 and #acth4--,like #ajth4 #adth4--#ab os41 #bj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #cb dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ad os41 #a dc4 #aeth4--,like #adth4 #afth4--#ab os41 #bj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ad dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ad os41 #a dc4 #agth4--#ab os41 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ah dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ac dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ad os41 #a dc4 #ahth4--#ab os41 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ah dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ae os41 #a dc4 #aith4--#ab os41 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ac dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ae os41 #a dc4 #bjth4--#ab os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #h dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af os41 #a dc4 #bast4--#ab os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ad dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #i dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #af os41 #c1 #a1 dc4 #bbnd4--#ac os41 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #bcrd4--#ac os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #h dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #bdth4--#ad os41 #ce dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ah os41 #a dc4 #beth--#ae os41 #dj dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ae os41 #a dc4 #bfth4--#ag os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #da dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ab os41 #a dc4 #bgth4--#ag os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ab os41 #a dc4 #bhth4--#ag os41 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #b dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #a os41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ab os41 #a dc4 #bith4--#af os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #e dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #c dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab os41 #a dc4 #cjth4--#ae os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #cast4--#ae os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aa dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #cbnd4--#ae os41 #bc dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ac dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #af os41 #a dc4 #ccrd4--#ae os41 #ba dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ae dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #af os41 #a dc4 #cdth4--#ae os41 #ai dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ae dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #ceth4--#ae os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #cb dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #cfth4--#af os41 #bh dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ah os41 #a dc4 #cgth4--#af os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #bi dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #chth4--#af os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #cj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #cith4--#ag os41 #be dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #c dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #djth4--#ae os41 #aj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ai os41 #a dc4 #dast4--#ad os41 #ad dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ah dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ah os41 #a dc4 #dbnd4--#ad os41 #ae dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #e dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af os41 #a dc4 #dcrd4--#ad os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #bb dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af os41 #a dc4 #ddth4--#ae os41 #ag dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #deth4--#ad os41 #bj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #af dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ag os41 #a dc4 #dfth4--#ac os41 #bc dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ah os41 #a dc4 #dgth4--#ab os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #h dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #bi dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #ah os41 #a dc4 #dhth4--#ac os41 #ce dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ai os41 #a dc4 #dith4--#ac os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #cj dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #bj os41 #a dc4 #ejth4--#ac os41 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ae dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ab dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #bj os41 #a dc4 #east4--#ad os41 #ac dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #h dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #bj os41 #a dc4 #ebnd4--#ad os41 #aj dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c os41 #e dc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 #ba os41 #a dc4 #ecrd4--#ae os41 #f dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #bf os41 #a dc4 #edth to #egth inclusive4--,in open square crochet4 ,the border to be the same as that given for ,punch's ,anti-,macassar1 in part ,i4 of this book4 ,,crochet ,d',,oyley4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,materials4--#g shades of ,berlin wool2 bone hook4 ,make a chain of #i1 and form it into a round4 #ast4--,dc41 increasing #c in the round4 #bnd4--#f ch41 #a tc41 miss #c4 ,repeat4 #crd4--,sc4 on centre of #f ch41 #i ch4 ,repeat4 #dth4--,sc4 on centre of #i ch41 #ab ch4 ,repeat4 #eth4 ,sc4 on centre of #ab ch41 #ae ch41 sc4 on same stitch1 and work #a sc41 #b dc41 #ad tc41 #b dc41 #a sc4 in the loop thus formed4 ,fasten off1 and repeat in the centre of every #ab ch4 #fth4--,begin on the point of the leaf with a sc4 stitch2 #ae ch41 sc4 on point of next leaf1 and so on4 #gth and #hth4--,dc4 all round4 #ith4-- ,sc41 #f ch41 miss #b1 4 ,repeat4 #ajth4-- ,sc4 on centre of #f ch41 #i ch41 2 repeat4 #aath4-- ,sc4 on centre of #i ch41 #ab ch41 2 repeat4 #abth4-- ,sc4 on centre of #ab ch41 #i ch41 2 repeat4 #acth4--,dc4 #adth4--,dc41 working two stitches into every one4 #aeth4--,sc4 on the centre of one of the spaces4 #ab ch41 sc4 in same stitch three times1 #ab ch41 sc on centre of next space4 ,and repeat from 4 #afth4--,dc4 all round4 #agth4--,sc41 #e ch41 miss #b1 sc4 in #crd 4 ,repeat all round1 and fasten off4 ,,point ,,lace ,,stitches4 ,illustration ,point ,lace is now so fashionable that very few are unacquainted with its appearance2 but perhaps some of my readers will be surprised when told that the whole of the genuine ,point ,lace is the production of the needle2 not merely the close and heavy parts are so made1 but the most exquisitely delicate nets1 of which1 of late years1 we have had imitations from the loom1 are all alike produced by the common sewing needle4 ,the work of which we treat here may be regarded not as an imitation of the valuable and beautiful work of ancient times1 but rather as an actual revival of an art which has unfortunately been suffered to sink into oblivion4 ,of course1 at present1 ,i content myself with giving very simple ,point ,lace patterns2 but1 as my fair readers advance in knowledge1 ,i shall give them specimens which will still more exercise their skill and patience4 ,point ,lace stitches are worked on a foundation of braid or tape2 or1 sometimes1 cambric4 ,at present1 ,i chiefly use braid1 it being the more comeatable material1 and answering extremely well for delicate articles4 ,it is the kind termed ,french white cotton braid1 being very closely and evenly plaited4 ,that used for large patterns is ,no4 #i2 for delicate work1 a still narrower braid may be employed4 ,very much of the beauty of ,point ,lace depends of course1 on the skill of the workers2 but it would not be exaggeration to assert that even more is the result of the adaptation of the materials4 ,a very great variety of cotton and linen thread is absolutely necessary2 not less than nine different kinds entering frequently into the composition of one single collar3 those ,i use are termed ,evans's ,point ,lace ,cottons1 manufactured by ,messrs4 ,walter ,evans and ,co41 of ,derby2 and they are as superior to all others that ,i have tried as it is possible to imagine4 ,they are sold selected and arranged properly for this kind of work4 ,the pattern being drawn in outline1 on colored paper1 is to be then pasted on calico or linen2 when quite dry1 begin to braid it1 by laying on the braid1 and running it on the paper with a fine needle and cotton1 ,no4 #ej4 ,the stitches are to be taken through the paper1 and not very closely together1 except where points of leaves and other angularities occur4 ,in these places the braid is sewed at each end of the pattern and turned back2 this is termed mitreing4 ,the stitches must be taken across the braid1 as it is not liable then to become wider4 ,the stitches which are used in the specimens ,i have hitherto made in point lace are the following1 which may be divided into three kinds3 edgings1 laces1 and connecting bars4 ,the use of the edgings is sufficiently obvious3 they form narrow borderings to the braid or other material which is the foundation of the lace4 ,the lace stitches are used to fill up open parts in the design1 such as the leaves1 flowers1 or fruit1 the mere outlines of which are made in the braid4 ,finally1 the connecting stitches unite the several parts into one perfect mass of work4 ,,edges4--,,brussels ,,edging 7,no4 #a74--,this is merely the common button-hole stitch1 or 7as it is sometimes called7 glove stitch4 ,it is worked nearly at the edge of the braid1 and differs only from the ordinary button-hole because the stitches are taken at the distance of the fourteenth part of an inch apart1 and1 as the thread is not drawn tightly1 each stitch forms a small loop4 ,it is worked from left to right4 ,,venetian ,,edging 7,no4 #b74--,the first stitch is taken as in ,brussels edging1 and in the loop thus formed1 four tight button-hole stitches are worked4 ,,sorrentine ,,edging 7,no4 #c74--,make a stitch as in ,brussels edging1 but the eighth of an inch long2 work one button-hole stitch in the loop2 repeat at the distance of the sixteenth of an inch2 two stitches are thus formed1 one of which is half the length of the other4 ,repeat4 ,,laces4--,,brussels ,,lace 7,no4 #d7 is worked by doing a line of ,brussels edging in the space to be filled up1 and then another line1 from right to left1 putting the needle1 at every stitch1 through one of the loops of the first row4 ,these lines are to be repeated1 backwards and forwards1 until the part is completed4 ,in working the last row1 run the needle through the braid after every stitch4 ,,venetian ,,lace 7,no4 #e74--,the beautiful closely-dotted appearance1 characteristic of this lace1 is obtained by working consecutive rows of ,venetian edging1 not backward and forwards1 but always from left to right1 fastening off after completing each line2 or1 if the space be very small1 running the needle in the braid back to the place where the next line is to be begun4 ,,english ,,lace 7,no4 #f7 is used principally to fill up large open spaces4 ,make a series of diagonal bars across the space to be filled up1 securing the tightness of each thread by working a button-hole stitch on the braid1 before slipping the needle to the next place2 cross these bars by others1 in the contrary direction1 and at the same distance 7one-eighth of an inch7 apart4 ,wherever the bars cross each other1 work a small spot1 by passing the needle alternately under and over the threads1 five or six times round4 ,twist the threads twice round each other in bringing the needle to the next cross1 and repeat until a spot is made at every one4 ,observe1 that in crossing the first bars you slip the needle alternately under and over them4 ,,open ,,english ,,lace 7,no4 #g7 is commenced like the preceding1 but when the two lines of diagonal bars are made1 a line of perpendicular and one of horizontal threads must be added4 ,the spot will thus be worked on eight threads instead of four4 ,the lines to be at the rate of five to an inch4 ,,english ,,rosettes 7,no4 #h74--;,another beautiful style of ,english point4 ,it is a kind of spot1 which looks like the miniature of the rosette on a baby's cap1 whence its name is derived4 ,a single spot is only used in one space1 and the size is to be suited to it4 ,the open space is crossed with four1 six or eight twisted threads2 the last thread to be twisted only to the centre1 where all are to be firmly joined by working one or two tight button-hole stitches4 ,make the rosette by passing the needle round one thread and under the next1 then round that and under the succeeding2 continue until you have made a rosette as large as the space requires1 working from four to ten times round4 ,stop at the single thread1 twist round it1 and fasten off4 ,,mechlin ,,lace 7,no4 #i74--,this is one of the most beautiful1 and at the same time1 complicated stitches in the list4 ,those who have worked it1 however1 all confess that the effect amply repays the trouble4 ,it is worked thus3 ,a number of diagonal bars1 each of a single thread1 cross each other in the space to be filled up1 at the distance of one quarter of an inch from each other4 ,then all the bars in one direction are to be covered with button-hole stitch4 ,begin in the opposite direction1 in the same way1 and work it nearly to the crossing of the two4 ,pass the thread loosely round the cross twice1 slipping the needle under one and over another thread1 so as to form the small circle seen in the engraving4 ,this is to be covered with button-hole stitch2 and as1 from the looseness of the thread1 it is otherwise somewhat troublesome to work it1 pin it down on the paper with a second needle4 ,in the middle of each quarter of every alternate round1 a dot is to be worked thus3 instead of drawing the thread tight1 as usual1 put in the loop a pin1 which is to keep it about the eighth of an inch in length4 ,on this loop work three button-hole stitches2 and withdraw the pin1 and continue the round4 ,,valenciennes ,,lace 7,no4 #bj17 has a very heavy appearance1 and contrasts admirably with lighter stitches4 ,a space to be so filled up has a number of radiating threads1 meeting1 in a common centre1 to be very closely darned with extremely fine thread4 ,,henriquez ,,lace 7,no4 #aa71 is1 on the contrary1 a very light and delicate stitch4 ,it must never be done with coarser thread than ,evans's boar's head1 #abj4 ,with this make a diagonal line across the space to be so filled in1 and return your needle to the point you began from1 by twisting the thread back again4 ,make another line1 parallel with this one1 and not more than the tenth of an inch from it4 ,twist it over four times1 then on the single and double thread form a spot1 by darning the three backwards and forwards about sixteen times4 ,to do this1 you must separate the two threads twisted together whenever you make a spot4 ,continue twisting your needle round the single thread1 for the space of one quarter of an inch1 when you will form another dot4 ,repeat until this line is finished4 ,make similar ones at one quarter of an inch apart in the entire space2 and then cross them with others1 worked in precisely the same manner1 in exactly the opposite direction4 ,take care that where the lines cross each other the thread is twisted between the first bar and the second1 that a small1 clear square may be maintained4 ,,cordovan ,,lace 7,no4 #ab71 is similar to the preceding1 but less delicate and less troublesome4 ,two twisted bars are made the tenth of an inch apart1 and a third single one1 in going back on which the spots are worked on two twisted threads and the single one4 ,they are also crossed by similar ones1 the crossing of the threads forming a diamond of four holes4 ,,connecting ,,bars are stitches used in the various kinds of point lace1 to unite different parts4 ,the most simple is the ,,sorrento ,,bar 7,no4 #ac71 which is made by passing a thread from one part to another1 fastening it by a tight stitch1 and twisting the thread back on the bar thus formed2 pass the thread round until it appears as much twisted as a rope4 ,,bars ,,in ,,alencon ,,point 7,no4 #ad74--,this is almost the same as our common herring bone stitch1 but the needle is passed under the last thread after every stitch before taking another1 which twists the two together4 ,where the space is more than half-an-inch wide1 it is requisite to pass the needle more than once under after every stitch4 ,,venetian ,,bars 7,no4 #ae74--,pass the needle backwards and forwards two or three times1 and work the bar thus formed in close button-hole stitch4 ,if it be a cross bar1 work the button-hole stitch half the length2 make the bar in the opposite direction1 work that2 and if another is required1 do the same before finishing the first bar4 ,,edged ,,venetian ,,bars 7,no4 #af7 are merely the above edged on each side with ,brussels or ,sorrento edging4 ,,dotted ,,venetian ,,bars 7,no4 #ag47--,to make these bars1 pass the thread across the space two or three times1 and make four button-hole stitches on the bar thus formed2 put a needle in the fourth1 and draw it out until it will allow of three or four button-hole stitches being worked on it2 continue the bar in the same way4 ,,english ,,bars 7,no4 #ah7 are used to connect two lines of edging4 ,pass the needle backwards and forwards between two opposite stitches four times each way1 always putting the needle in the under side of the edge4 ,sometimes these bars are radiated1 by missing a stitch more on one side than on the other4 ,the marked characteristic of ,,spanish ,,point 7,no4 #ai7 is a kind of heavy satin stitch1 with which parts are ornamented4 ,it is very much raised1 and afterwards worked in button-hole stitch with fine linen ,mecklenburgh thread4 ,continuous rows of ,sorrento edges worked backwards and forwards1 like ,brussels ,lace1 form a variety represented in a corner of the ,engraving4 ,the lower line of edging in the ,engraving is termed ,little ,venetian4 ,it is worked like the other1 but with only one button-hole stitch4 ,when1 by means of these different stitches1 the pattern is formed into a solid mass of work1 the stitches at the back are to be cut1 to detach the lace from the paper2 the threads may then be picked out and the article is complete4 ,to join point lace on to cambric or muslin1 make an extremely narrow hem on either1 and lay the inner line of braiding on that4 ,join them together by running on the middle of the braid through the cambric1 and then working a line of ,brussels edge on to the inner part of the braid1 taking every stitch through both substances4 ,,crochet ,,collar ,,fig4 #a4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #cj4 ,crotchet hook1 ,no4 #bb2 eagle card-board gauge4 ,chain of #ahj stitches1 on which work a row of dc4 #bnd4-- #c tc41 #c ch41 miss #c1 4 ,repeat4 ,finish with #c tc4 #crd4-- #c dc4 on #c tc41 #c ch41 4 ,repeat4 #dth4-- sc4 on #ast dc41 #f ch41 miss #e1 sc4 on #fth1 4 ,repeat4 #eth4--,sc4 on the centre of first loop1 1 #g ch41 sc4 on centre of next loop1 4 ,repeat4 #fth4--,sc4 on centre of first loop1 #f ch41 sc4 on centre of next loop1 4 ,repeat4 #gth row4--,dc4 on all the chain1 missing every sc4 stitch4 #hth4--,sc4 on first stitch1 #i ch41 sc4 on same stitch1 #ab ch41 sc4 on same stitch1 #i ch41 sc4 on same stitch1 turn the work1 dc4 in every chain of the #c loops just formed1 turn again1 and work dc4 on the previous dc4 except the first #e1 #g ch41 miss #e stitches of the #gth row1 #f dc4 on the next #f1 4 ,repeat4 #ith4--,sc4 on the point of the leaf of #i1 #d ch41 sc4 on point of large leaf1 #ae ch41 4 ,repeat4 ,finish the row with #d ch41 sc4 on point of last small leaf4 #ajth4--,dc4 in every stitch of the last row working #b in every #dth4 #aath4-- #b dc41 #c ch41 miss #c1 until you come to the stitch over the large leaf1 then make a loop of #f ch41 dc4 into the same stitch4 ,repeat4 #abth4--,dc4 on all the rest of the line1 working every loop thus--#a sc41 #d dc41 #a sc4 #aeth4--,dc4 in first dc4 of last row1 #c ch41 miss #b1 dc4 in #crd 4 ,repeat1 but without missing any on the loops4 #afth4--,sc4 on first chain of the foundation1 and up the side work #d ch41 miss #b1 #h sc41 sc4 on every stitch of the last row1 and dc4 the other end of the collar like the first4 #agth4--,sc4 under first loop1 #e ch41 sc4 under #bnd1 repeat to the sc4 stitches1 then #e ch4 miss #b1 sc4 on #crd1 to the end1 which work like the beginning4 ,,mat ,,with ,,border ,,of ,,moss1 ,,cherries1 ,,and ,,leaves4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,materials4--,half-an-ounce of bright cherry-coloured ,berlin wool2 two shades of green ditto1 or of chenille a broder1 two skeins of the best green fleecy of different shades1 or shaded ,shetland will do as well4 ,,for ,,the ,,moss4--,if fleecy wool be used1 it must be split1 and a thread of each shade taken1 by using ,pyrenees wool this trouble is obviated4 ,take a pair of very fine knitting needles2 cast on #af to #bj stitches3 knit a piece as tightly as possible1 four times the length required3 wet1 and bake or dry it before the fire4 ,when it is quite dry1 cut off one edge throughout the whole length1 and unravel all the stitches but two at the other edge4 7,take care to begin to unravel at the end you left off knitting1 or the wool will get entangled47 ,fold it in four1 and sew the edges together4 ,this will make a very full moss fringe4 ,,for ,,the ,,cherries4--,cut a number of rounds in card1 each the diameter of a good-sized cherry4 ,cut a small hole in the middle of each take a needleful of ,berlin wool1 three times the length of your arm2 thread it with a rug needle2 pass the needle in the hole of the card1 holding the end of the wool with the left hand2 pass the wool2 lay it on the edge of the card1 as if you were going to wind it2 pass the needle through the hole again2 repeat this until the whole needleful of wool is used4 ,then make a little tuft of wool on the end of a rather fine wire2 twist the wire tight and pass the ends into the hole of the card2 take a pair of sharp-pointed scissors1 cut the wool all round the card2 with a bit of waxed thread1 tie as tightly as possible the little bunch of wool in the hole of the card1 tear the card off1 and pare the wool as smooth as velvet2 cover the ends of wire with green wool or silk1 and each cherry is completed4 ,,leaves4--,make a cherry of #ac loops in green wool1 and on them1 miss #d1 dc4 in #eth1 #b ch41 miss #b1 dc4 in #crd1 twice #a ch41 miss #a1 slip on first of #ac4 ,take a piece of very fine wire and hold it in1 while working round this open hem1 leaving a short piece for a stem4 ,work all round in tc41 except the #b first and #b last stitches which are to be #a sc41 #a dc41 and #a dc41 #a sc41 twist the two ends of wire together1 cover them with wool4 ,when sufficient leaves are done1 form them into a wreath with the cherries1 joining them by means of the ends of wire2 insert them in the moss1 and sew the border thus made round a mat of velvet1 or work1 lined with card-board1 and with silk at the other side4 ,this border may be used for any crochet or knitted mat2 the moss may be made more or less thick according to taste4 ,a very full border would require six lengths4 ,,initials ,,in ,,embroidery ,,fig4 #c4 ,,materials4--,ingrain red and white embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #gj for linen1 ,no4 #hj for cambric4 ,these ,initials should be marked on the material1 and then worked in the white cotton in raised satin stitch1 after which a thread is to be run entirely round the work1 and sewed over in red very closely indeed4 ,every angle and point must be made with the utmost accuracy1 as on this the beauty of the letters greatly depends4 ,,autour ,,boutons4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,small pattern to surround shirt-studs2 to be worked in embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,the small rounds in eyelet-holes to be made with a fine stiletto1 and sewed over4 ,a ,,very ,,pretty ,,carriage ,,bag4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,materials4--,white and blue ,berlin wool1 half-an-ounce of each2 two flat meshes1 not quite a quarter of an inch broad1 a piece of ,french canvas1 ,no4 #bd1 one-half the size the bag is desired2 gros-de ,naples1 7the shade of the coloured wool71 cord and tassels to match4 ,with the blue wool work on the canvass1 in common cross-stitch1 a square of #f stitches in every direction2 miss an equal space and repeat4 ,thus the whole space of canvass must be prepared like a chess-board1 the blue checks of one line coming between those of the previous1 the third over those of the first line1 and so on4 ,having completed this1 take one of your meshes and a rug needle1 threaded with white wool1 work immediately over each blue square of the first line #f stitches1 thus3--,begin at the top of the stitch1 lay the wool over the mesh1 take two threads for the lower part of the stitch1 pass the wool under the mesh1 finish your stitch2 repeat five times2 leave the mesh on the stitches2 take the second mesh1 work a second row exactly alike over this2 then1 at the top1 a third row of white stitches1 four threads long1 and two broad4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,ladies ,,own ,,book1 ,,and ,,companion ,,to ,,the ,,work ,,table1 ,,part ,,iv4 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald1 ,,new-,,york ,turn the work1 and in the space which is now over1 but was first under the first row of blue squares1 work with the white1 the rows round the meshes1 as before1 and one of long white stitches4 ,turn the work again1 and work the next two rows of white stitches round the meshes4 ,repeat the same operation over every other line of blue squares4 ,now take the work cross-way1 and work in white1 as before1 every space left2 then cut the ends of the white wool4 ,make up the bag with a top of silk1 line it1 add cords and tassels1 and it is complete4 ,if preferred without silk1 have canvass the full size for a carriage bag and work it all over4 ,d',,oyley ,,in ,,square ,,crochet4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #af2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ah4 ,eagle card-board gauge4 ,the size ,i have given for materials will make this d'oyley about #bj inches1 as there are #hh squares1 and #i squares are equal to #b inches4 ,of course1 with finer cottons and hooks1 the size will be diminished4 ,patterns given in square crochet are very pretty worked in two colours of wool4 ,the open squares should be worked in one colour1 and the close in the other2 every square consisting of three dc4 stitches4 ,mats of this description should be tacked on a stand previously formed of stout card or mill-board1 covered with green calico or silk4 ,,deep ,,point ,,lace1 ,,for ,a ,,handkerchief ,,or ,,veil4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,visitors to the ,london ,exhibition1 will recognise this pattern as one of those in the gallery of that wondrous palace3 ,i presume1 therefore1 it will be very acceptable to my fair readers4 ,the pattern of the flowers is well adapted for the mandarin sleeves which everbody wears just now4 ,to draw the pattern for that purpose1 merely copy over and over again the two large flowers at the bottom of the page4 ,draw the pattern on colored paper1 and use a fine sable brush1 dipped in ,indian ink for coloring the lines2 paste the paper on linen1 and when dry it will be fit to be worked4 ,a little more management is required when a pattern for a handkerchief is to be made4 ,cut a square of tissue paper1 rather larger than the handkerchief is to be1--double it twice1 so as to mark the centre of each side1 and trace the three divisions of the corner flower up to a on one side of this centre1 leaving room for half of another division2 fold the paper and trace a similar piece of the flower on the other side of the centre1 and finish also the division in the middle4 ,as it will be seen on referring to the plate1 that there are three divisions and nearly half another up to the a1 it will be evident that the centre flower will have seven divisions4 ,on the right of this centre draw three of the flowers at the lower edge of the frontispiece1 and at the corner another flower1 exactly like the centre one1 but turned so as to form a corner4 ,trace the left hand side of the centre from that already done1 and you will have a perfect side with two corners4 ,draw the pattern on colored paper1 from this one side1 and line it with linen before working it4 ,you will observe that there are two straight lines of braid in the inner border2 the one nearest to the flowers is only to be laid on when working the lace1 and connected with the other3 no edging is to be put to it until after the hemmed cambric is laid underneath1 when it is to be run on1 and then edged with ,brussels edging4 a4--,sorrento edging4 ,to be worked with ,mecklenburgh thread1 #abj4 b4--,venice edging4 ,boar's-head thread1 ,no4 #ej4 c4--,brussels edge4 ,ditto4 d4--,bars of ,venice ,point4 ,mecklenburgh thread1 #abj4 e4--,rosettes worked on #d threads3 the centre ones gradually increasing in size1 towards the outer edge of the flower2 the others as small as the spots of ,english ,point4 ,boar's-head thread1 ,no4 #ij4 f4--,open ,english lace4 ,ditto4 g4--,brussels lace4 ,ditto4 h4--,english lace4 ,boar's-head thread1 ,no4 #gj4 i4--,sorrento bars4 ,mecklenburgh thread1 ,no4 #abj4 j4--,rosettes4 ,thread ,no4 #gj4 k4--,bars in ,alencon point4 ,ditto4 ,,crochet ,,edging4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #cj4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bj4 ,make a chain of the required length1 and work on it one row of dc4 #bnd4-- #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b 2 repeat4 #crd4--,dc4 #dth4-- #aa tc41 #f ch41 miss #f 2 repeat4 #eth4-- #i tc4 7beginning on the #bnd of last row72 #e ch41 #a tc4 under #f ch42 #e ch4 2 repeat4 #fth4-- #g tc41 commencing on #bnd1 #f ch41 #a tc4 in first loop1 #f ch41 #a tc4 in #bnd1 #f ch4 2 repeat4 #gth4-- #c tc4 commencing on #crd of last row1 99 #f ch41 tc4 in loop 99 to the next tc4 stitches1 2 repeat4 #hth4-- tc4 on #bnd of #c of last row1 99 #f ch41 tc in loop 99 to next tc4 2 repeat4 ,,crochet ,,edging4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #dj1 crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb1 eagle card-board gauge4 ,this edging will be found very pretty for children's dresses and similar articles4 ,make a chain of the length required4 #ast4 row4--#a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #bnd4-- #a dc4 under a loop1 #f ch41 miss #a loop1 dc4 under #bnd1 #f ch41 miss #a 2 repeat4 #crd4-- #g dc4 under #a loop2 #c ch41 #b dc4 under next loop1 #c ch4 2 repeat4 #dth4-- #f dc4 over #g1 #d ch42 #b dc4 over #b1 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #eth4-- #d dc4 over #f1 #d ch42 #c sc4 over #b1 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #fth4-- #c dc4 over #d1 #d ch42 #a dc4 before #c sc41 #e ch42 #a dc4 after sc41 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #gth4-- #b dc4 over #c1 #e ch42 #f dc4 under the #e ch41 #e ch41 2 repeat4 #hth4-- #a dc4 between #b dc41 #e ch41 #a dc4 after first of #f dc41 #c ch2 dc4 after #bnd1 #c ch41 dc4 after #crd1 #c ch41 dc4 after #dth1 #c ch41 dc4 after #eth1 #e ch4 2 repeat4 ,,crochet ,,insertion4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #cj or #cd4 ,very suitable for shirt fronts and similar articles4 ,make a chain of the required length and work one row of dc4 #bnd4--#a tc41 #a ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #crd4--,dc4 throughout4 #dth4--,a row of eyelet-holes1 thus--#h ch41 close in a round in the second ch42 work #c dc4 in the round thus made1 drop the loop on the needle1 insert the needle in both sides of #eth dc4 of last row1 counting from the top of the row1 pick up the dropped loop1 finish a stitch of dc41 work three more crochet in ch4 in the round2 repeat from the beginning of the row1 joining in every fifth stitch4 #eth4--7,the second side of the eyelet-holes7--#g dc4 in each eyelet-hole1 #a ch4 between every #b4 #fth4--#d ch41 dc4 in #dth on the #bnd side of the first eyelet-hole2 repeat4 #gth4--dc4 #hth4--#a tc41 #a ch41 miss #a2 repeat4 #ith4--dc4 ,this insertion is remarkably strong1 and very pretty1 made of silk1 for trimming dresses1 c4 ,,elementary ,,instructions ,,in ,,embroidery4 ,undoubtedly the most artistic style of needlework is that termed ,,embroidery2 not the canvas embroidery of which ,i treated in ,part ,,ii4 of this work but the yet higher kind of needlework-painting1 which aims at producing really pictorial effect1 without the mechanical assistance which canvass gives in counting stitches and determining shades4 ,in embroidery much is left to the eye1 and still more to the taste4 ,a few words1 therefore1 on the subject of selecting colors and harmonizing tints1 as well as on the mere stitches employed1 will probably be acceptable4 ,,to ,,mark ,,patterns4 ,designs are invariably marked on satin1 cloth1 or velvet1 by means of what are termed pounced patterns4 ,these are prepared in the following manner3--,the design is carefully traced on rather thick writing paper2 then1 with a fine stiletto it is marked in holes1 distant from each other not more than the eighth of an inch3 from the pattern thus prepared1 any number almost may be marked4 ,the material to be embroidered is then laid on the table1 and the pattern placed in the proper position over it1 and kept there by means of leaden weights4 ,a little pounce1 or powdered flake white must then be rubbed over the paper1 with a large and flat stump1 and1 on the paper being raised1 the design appears accurately marked on the cloth4 ,it requires to be afterwards re-marked with a fine sable brush1 dipped in a mixture of flake white and milk1 or an artist's color1 contrasting with the material1 mixed up with a few drops of spirits of turpentine4 ,white satin1 or any very light color on which white would not show may be pounced with very finely powdered charcoal1 and then marked with a solution of ,indian ink4 ,for drawing a pattern on any washing material a still simpler plan may be adopted4 ,scrape some red or blue chalk2 brush it lightly over a sheet of thin tissue paper1 shake off the loose grains1 lay the chalked side of the paper on the muslin1 and over it the pattern1 which you will trace with a hard sharp-pointed pencil1 and the design will be clearly marked1 and require no further trouble4 ,when any parts of a pattern are repeated--as the quarters of a cushion or a handkerchief1 or the scallops of a flounce--have only the pounced pattern of one quarter or section1 and mark all from that one4 ,it will be found a much more accurate mode than that of making the whole paper pattern perfect4 ,the next step is to put the material in a frame1 two or three inches wider than the work it is to receive4 ,i must refer to my ,instructions in ,berlin ,canvas ,work1 ,part ,,ii4 of this book for the directions for this very important part of the process4 ,the needles used are technically called short long eyes and strands4 ,the latter are like common needles1 but unusually long4 ,it injures the work to use too fine a needle1 as the small eye frays the silk2 on the other hand a needle that is too large makes holes in the cloth4 ,the materials chiefly used for embroidery are wools1 chenille1 and silks3 there are great varieties of the last-mentioned article1 the principal being ,mitorse1 ,dacca1 ,berlin1 fine and coarse flax1 crochet1 and netting silks4 ,of the netting silks there are many sizes1 which may be used according to the delicacy of the work4 ,initials intended to be in gold1 for sachets1 c41 are almost as effective if rich gold-colored twisted silk be used instead2 and the silk will wear for ever1 whilst it is almost impossible to obtain gold thread which will not tarnish in a few months4 ,,stitches4 ,the common stitch used in embroidery is termed long-stitch4 ,it closely resembles the ,irish stitch of canvass work1#b only without its regularity4 ,the stitches are taken closely together and of uneven lengths2 the second shade is blended with the first by filling up the vacant spaces of the short stitch2 the next shade1 in the same way1 unites with that one1 and so on in an irregular form1 the outline only presenting1 a regular line of stitches1 exactly within the limits of the marked pattern4 ,the shading must1 of course1 be done with artistic accuracy4 ,footnote #b3 ,see ,part ,,ii4 ,the veinings of leaves are worked in silk rather coarser than that used for the rest of the work4 ,sometimes this silk is considerably thicker2 it is then laid on1 and sewed over with very fine silk of the same shade1 the ends being drawn through the material4 ,leaves are frequently veined with gold thread in a similar manner4 ,large leaves should be worked from the points to the veins2 small ones seldom require to be veined at all4 ,like stems they are formed of a succession of slanting stitches very evenly laid on1 forming curves and lines of the width and dimensions of the patterns1 and forming accurate outlines4 ,when gold bullion is employed in embroidery1 it is cut into short lengths1 which are then laid on with fine silk of the same hue4 ,gold thread is sewed over1 and the ends brought through the cloth and so passed from one part to another4 ,the ,chinese employ1 in their most elaborate embroidery1 a very pretty stitch termed1 by us1 the ,french ,knot4 ,it is made thus3--,bring the needleful of silk to the right side of the work1 in the exact spot where the stitch is to be4 ,hold the needle in the right hand1 and with the left take up the silk1 at an inch or two from the cloth4 ,twist the needle twice round the silk1 insert it in the same spot you drew it through before1 and1 with the right hand1 draw the needle to the under side1 gradually tightening the silk with the left hand4 ,when quite drawn through the knot is formed4 ,the great art in this work is to make the stitches all lie perfectly even4 ,we seldom use the ,french ,knot for anything but the seeds1 stamen1 or pistils of flowers2 but the ,chinese execute whole pieces in this stitch1 shading them most exquisitely1 and only using a coarse white silk or gold thread as an outline to the whole4 ,in bead embroidery1 every stitch is generally put on separately1 and in its own place2 but a very beautiful effect may be obtained in pearl beads imitating grapes1 by stringing them with white silk1 and letting them cross each other in various directions1 still preserving the outline of the cluster4 ,a very pretty and effective style of embroidery is that done with gold braid and wool on canvass4 ,it is very suitable for slippers1 cushions1 the bands of smoking caps1 blotting cases1 and many other things4 ,an outline design in arabesque1 or anything else that may appear suitable for two colors1 should be drawn on paper of the proper dimensions and then marked on the canvass4 ,the gold braid must be cut into pieces of the proper lengths1 and laid on piece by piece1 the spaces between the pattern being filled with wool of some well-contrasting color--as bright blue1 green1 or claret--so that the pattern appears in gold on a ground of wool4 ,when leaves are so worked1 a rich silk1 of a deeper gold colour than the braid1 should be used afterwards to vein it4 ,having spoken of cushions1 it may be well to tell my fair readers how to make them up most comfortably3--,cut some good strong calico bias of the proper size2 line it with two or three thicknesses of good wadding1 well fastened to it in every direction2 and stuff the bag thus made with down2 the pillow to be afterwards covered in any manner that may be desired4 ,pillows made in this way are not only much softer than others1 but they also keep their shape much better1 and are not liable to sink after a little wear4 ,waistcoats and other articles are now much embroidered in soie ombre1 that is1 silk shaded in varieties of one colour4 ,i cannot say ,i think it so pretty as the variety of natural colors1 or even a single self-shade4 ,it is however1 fashionable4 ,,the ,,choice ,,of ,,colors4--,i will conclude my instructions for embroidery with a few hints on the choice of suitable colors2 as ,dogberry observes1 that 8reading and writing come by nature10 so ,i may be excused for asserting that the axiom is 7in part1 at least7 correct1 as regards the power of discriminating colors4 ,in a great measure it is a natural gift2 still it may be cultivated1 nay almost created4 ,selecting the necessary wools1 silks1 c4 is technically called1 sorting a pattern4 ,to sort a pattern well1 it is requisite to consider the capabilities of the various materials4 ,wools and silks1 silks in flox1 and twisted1--though dipped in the same vat1 would be found to vary materially in the shade of color when dyed4 ,hence it is important to select such materials as will blend well together1 and also wear well when worked4 ,the following colors may be said to harmonize perfectly3-- ,blue works well with the warmer tints of drab1 stone1 and fawn4 ,yellow with the richest and darkest shades of drab4 ,pink with soft stone1 fawn1 and grey4 ,lilac with the cold green tints of the same colors4 ,lilac with some greens4 ,maize and salmon with green4 ,scarlet with a slate tint4 ,blue with rich dark claret brown4 ,maize with blue4 ,white with olive green4 ,green and blue do not harmonize1 whatever the votaries of the present fashion may declare to the contrary4 ,even green leaves do not look well in the vicinity of blue flowers1 unless they partake of the rich autumn tints of olive1 yellow1 and brown4 ,then the primitive colors1 scarlet and yellow1 kill each other2 they give color1 but not coloring2 and yellow and green1 scarlet and brown1 or scarlet and lilac1 are all equally injurious4 ,it must be remembered that strong contrasts do not of themselves produce beauty2 it is rather the delicate adjustment of the various shades4 ,there are numberless varieties of every leading color--greens1 whites1 and reds especially4 ,the following list may be serviceable3-- ,,white ,,flowers4--,these may be shaded in any of the following colors3 green1 pure white1 grey or slate4 ,the choice depends on the color to be worked1 the ,fleur de lis requiring1 for instance1 to be shaded into green4 ,in all the shades1 however1 the greatest softness is imperative4 ,all sudden contrasts must be avoided4 ,damask roses are worked in at least six shades2 from black to a pure rose pink2 the gradations include deep claret1 lighter ditto1 scarlet1 and a medium shade between the last4 ,ordinary roses are shaded from deep scarlet to bright ponceau1 and various shades of pink4 ,the shades of green1 for leaves1 are quite innumerable4 ,it is never in good taste to have a group of flowers on a light ground without some one in the group to correspond with it4 ,not that it should be a prominent object1 but that it softens the whole4 ,finally1 ,i may be permitted to observe that1 as 8good wine needs no bush10 so good needlework requires not very gaudy or striking mountings4 ,a well designed portfeuille or cushion does not look at all better for being so extravagantly finished off1 that the eye rests on the fittings rather than the work4 ,let cords1 tassels1 linings c41 be as good as possible2 let them also be as plain as possible4 ,these are but the frame1 the work is the picture2 and the valuable part should be also the most attractive4 ,,honiton ,,crochet ,,collar4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,this crochet collar1 in imitation of ,honiton lace1 is composed of sprigs and edging in crochet sewed on ,italian or ,brussels net4 ,it is a very simple style of collar1 and may be made very rapidly4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #gj4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bd1 eagle card-board gauge4 ,,the ,,edging4--#af ch4 close in the #f for a loop1 in which work #e ch41 miss #a1 sc4 in #bnd #d times2 #e ch41 sc4 on the close of the loop4 ,turn the work on the wrong side1 and do under every chain of five #b sc41 #e dc42 #b sc42 repeat from the #af chain as often as may be required for the length4 ,,for ,,the ,,sprig4--,make a chain of #aj1 form it into a loop1 in which work 99 #e ch42 miss #a1 sc4 in #bnd 99 #e times1 joining into the close of the loop at the last2 turn on the wrong side1 and this forms the flower4 #ab ch4 for stem2 miss #a1 #g dc41 turn the work #f ch41 miss #a1 sc4 on #bnd dc4 stitch1 all round this centre of the leaf2 work all these loops in sc42 #i ch41 miss #a1 #g dc4 for centre of another leaf2 work as before2 #f ch41 work sc4 all along the stem1 and fasten off4 ,,open ,,hem4--,make a chain of the required length1 and in it work #b ch41 miss #a1 #a dc4 2 repeat to the end4 ,to make up crochet ,honiton lace for collars1 or any other purpose3--,cut out a pattern of the article required in coloured paper1 slightly larger than is requisite2 then a similar one1 in ,italian or ,brussels net4 ,a very narrow roll or hem must be made round this net1 and it must then be tacked on the paper4 ,then arrange on it the crochet work1 beginning with the edging and sprigs1 and tack them lightly in their places4 ,run them round with very fine cotton2 put the openwork in every loop #a sc41 #a dc41 #c tc41 #a dc41 #a sc4 hem round the neck1 fasten it on2 and1 round the outer edge1 lay some of the very best pearl edging4 ,the collar given in the engraving is formed in scallops1 in each of which one sprig is laid4 ,in future1 when giving receipts for ,honiton lace1 ,i shall refer to this number of our book for the mode of making up1 c4 ,,knitted ,,basket4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,materials4--,six shades of #d-thread ,berlin wool1 in scarlet or any other colour1 and #d bone pins ,no4 #h4 ,with the lightest shade of wool cast on #ac stitches4 #ast ,row4--,slip #a1 knit #a1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 make #b1 knit #b together1 twice1 knit #a4 #bnd4--,knit #c1 purl #a1 knit #b1 purl #a1 knit #a1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #a4 #crd4--,slip #a1 knit #a1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #b1 make #b1 knit #b together1 make #b1 knit #b together1 knit #a4 #dth4--,knit #c1 purl #a1 knit #b1 purl #a1 knit #c1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #a4 #eth4--,slip #a1 knit #a1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #d1 1 make #b1 knit #b together1 twice1 knit #a4 #fth4--,knit #c1 purl #a1 knit #b1 purl #a1 knit #e1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #a4 #gth4--,slip #a1 knit #a1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #f1 1 make #b1 knit #b together1 twice1 knit #a4 #hth4--,cast off #h1 knit #e1 1 make #a1 knit #b together1 #c times1 knit #a4 ,this completes one pattern2 join on the next shade of wool for another1 and so on1 changing the shade with every repetition of the pattern4 ,the seventh pattern will be done again with the lightest shade2 and #ab patterns will be found sufficient for the edging4 ,sew the sides up1 and on each of the three needles take up #cc stitches1 from the straight side of the edging2 knit #b rounds plain1 then knit #a1 knit #b together1 knit to within #c of the end of the needle1 knit #b together1 knit #a2 repeat this on the other two needles2 knit one plain round and one decreasing one alternately1 until only #d stitches are left on each needle4 ,draw up the opening1 and fasten the wool with a coarse embroidery needle4 ,make a handle of #c or #d pieces of fine wire covered with wool or ribbon2 and put a round1 similarly covered1 at the top and bottom of the three rows of open hem to keep the basket in shape4 ,,initial ,,letters ,,in ,,embroidery4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,the ,c and ,e here represented are given in a style more suitable for marking household linen and large articles than for embroidering delicate handkerchiefs4 ,,materials4--,ingrain ,turkey red1 and white embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #gj for linen1 and #hj for cambric4 ,the letters are to be worked in raised satin stitch1 with white cotton1 and the whole surrounded by a single thread of red1 sewed closely over2 this throws the letters into strong relief1 and has a very chaste and beautiful effect4 ,in future numbers we shall give other and more decorative styles of letters1 for handkerchiefs1 c4 ,,shamrock-,,leaf ,d',,oyley4 ,,fig4 #d4 ,,materials4--,cotton ,no4 #af4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #ag4 ,eagle card-board gauge4 #h ch41 close for a round4 #ast4--#af dc4 #bnd4-- #g ch41 miss #a1 sc4 on #bnd1 #h times4 #crd4-- #f ch41 sc4 on the centre of #g ch41 2 repeat all round4 #dth4--,dc4 all round1 increasing #a in every other stitch4 #eth4--#g ch41 miss #b1 dc4 into #crd2 turn the work1 #e ch41 miss #b1 dc4 into #crd1 #e times1 turn the work1 and repeat from the beginning of the row4 #fth4-- sc4 on the point of a scallop2 #f ch41 sc4 on centre of next scallop1 #i ch41 2 repeat4 #gth4--#g tc4 on #f ch41 #ac ch41 #g tc4 on next #f ch41 #ac ch41 all round4 #hth4-- sc4 on centre of #ac ch41 #bf ch41 sc4 on centre of next #ac1 #bf ch41 2 repeat all round4 #ith4--,dc4 all round1 increasing every other stitch4 #ajth4--#g ch41 sc4 into the same stitch1 turn the work1 #b dc41 #g tc41 #b dc41 in loop of #g1 turn again1 miss #h2 repeat4 #aath4--,commence with sc4 on the point of the leaf1 make #g ch41 sc4 on the point of the next leaf1 and so on all round4 #abth4-- sc4 on centre of #g ch41 #i ch41 1 repeat4 #acth4-- sc4 on centre of #i ch41 #g ch41 repeat4 #adth4--,sc4 on centre of the chain of #g1 #h ch41 slip stitch into the same1 #ab ch41 slip into the same1 #h ch41 slip into the same2 turn the work2 work under the #h ch41 #a sc41 #b dc41 #f tc41 #b dc41 #a sc42 the loop of #ab work in the same way with #ab tc41 the loop of #h1 with #f tc42 fasten off2 miss #b chains of #g1 sc4 on #crd1 #aj ch41 miss #e1 dc4 on the #fth1 #a ch41 miss #a41 sc4 on #bnd1 #a ch41 miss #a1 slip on first of #aj1 work all round in tc41 except the first and last stitches in sc42 fasten off2 miss #b chains of #g1 and repeat from the beginning of the round4 #aeth4-- sc4 on the point of the single leaf1 #ae ch41 sc4 on point of the shamrock1 #ae ch41 2 repeat4 #afth4-- ,dc4 all round1 increasing in every other stitch4 #agth4-- sc4 in one stitch1 #g ch41 miss #b1 repeat4 #ahth4-- sc4 in centre of #g ch41 #i ch41 2 repeat4 #aith4-- sc4 in centre of #h ch41 #i ch41 2 repeat4 #bjth4--sc4 under #i ch41 #e tc4 under the same1 #ab ch41 sc4 under the next #i ch41 2 repeat4 ,like all other crochet work1 this pattern may be greatly increased by the use of coarser materials4 ,worked with ,evans's boar's-head cotton1 ,no4 #d1 and a hook proportionably large1 it will make a very pretty couvrette for a music-stool4 ,,pinafore4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this pinafore or blouse is made of very fine holland1 trimmed with worsted braid4 ,there are two ways of making it3 the first is that given in the engraving2 the second1 which has much the same effect1 was brought into this country by a ,russian family of the highest rank4 ,it was made of the richest crimson velvet with gold braid and buttons4 ,,the ,,first ,,pattern4--,measure the length from the child's knee to the top of the shoulder2 and cut out in holland1 a perfect round1 exactly double the width of the length you have taken1 and two nails over1 thus--if it be half a yard from the child's knee to the shoulder1 the circle must be one yard and two nails wide4 ,in the exact centre of this cut a circle out1 large enough for the neck1 and on each side of it1 7distant #e to #f inches17 another hole for the arm4 ,a slit is made from the neck1 the straight way of the stuff1 six inches long4 ,a pair of full and long sleeves are then put in the small holes1 and two lines of worsted braid go down them from the centre of the neck1 on each side1 confining the sleeves in plaits4 ,small wristbands are set on1 also trimmed with braid1 the neck and slit are hemmed1 and trimmed in the same way1 and buttons and loops added to fasten the slit4 ,a hem1 one nail broad is made all round the outer edge of the circle1 and trimmed like the rest4 ,the pinafore is then complete1 being merely confined with a broad band and buckle at the waist4 ,the other pattern was still more simply made1 notwithstanding the rich materials4 ,as it would be best made in ,french merino1 ,i will describe it in that material--two yards will be more than enough1 unless the child is unusually tall4 ,cut off a yard and three-eighths1 fold it evenly1 and join up the two sides1 leaving only room for an armhole4 ,slit the centre of the width about #f inches1 or perhaps twelve2 and make a slit of six inches1 at the end of this one in the opposite direction4 ,cut the sleeves long1 and full at the bottom1 make a hem1 which trim with braid1 and put them in the arm-holes2 plait up the fulness on each side of the neck in large plaits1 and confine them by a double row of braid which continues to the bottom of the sleeve4 ,hem and trim the slit in the same manner2 fold in plaits the superfluous fulness of the neck1 7if twelve inches have been cut7 and trim it also with braid4 ,make a hem at the bottom of the dress and finish in like manner4 ,a few ornamental buttons should fasten the opening on the breast1 and also go down the shoulders1 and a broad band round the waist completes this graceful dress4 ,for full dress1 a rich green merino1 with silver braid1 and silver buttons1 has a very rich and chaste effect4 ,,neck ,,tie4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,materials4--,two shades of crochet purse twist1 any color that may be desired4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #af4 ,eagle card-board gauge4 ,make a chain of the required length2 work one row of sc4 #bnd4--,sc4 on #ast1 #f ch41 miss #c1 sc4 on #dth2 repeat4 #crd4--,turn the work1 #f ch41 sc4 under first loop1 #f ch41 sc4 under next2 repeat4 ,continue these #b rows until about a yard and a quarter is done1 when work a row thus3--sc4 on centre of #f ch41 #c ch41 sc4 in centre of next2 finish with a row of sc4 ,a ring1 covered with silk1 and two silk tassels1 complete the neck tie4 ,,embroidery4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,suitable ,,for ,,the ,,half ,,of ,a ,,handkerchief ,,corner1 ,,or ,,any ,,other ,,purpose4 ,for a handkerchief1 ,i should recommend the fashionable mixture of scarlet and white embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,the large leaves may be worked merely in outline1 being button-hole stitched in one color1 whilst the veinings are done in another4 ,the specks on the large leaf are small ,french knots1 which ,i have described in the 8,elementary ,instructions10 in this number4 ,the fibres and tendrils are run1 and sewed over with the greatest nicety4 ,the broad veinings of the upper and lower leaf would be improved by being very delicately worked in small eyelet-holes1 made with a coarse needle rather than a stiletto4 ,,square ,d',,oyley ,,in ,,crochet4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,the materials suitable for ,table ,d'oyleys will be ,cotton1 ,no4 #bd or #cj1 and crochet hook1 ,no4 #bj4 ,the ,d'oyley is to be worked from the ,engraving1 and afterwards finished with a narrow crochet edging1 which will be found at the end of this book4 ,to increase or diminish the size of ,d'oyleys1 use cotton proportionably coarser or finer4 ,,deep ,,lace ,,in ,,crochet4 ,,fig4 #i4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #dj4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb4 ,make a chain the requisite length4 #ast4-- #g ch41 miss #e1 sc4 on #fth 4 ,repeat4 #bnd4--,sc4 on centre of #g ch41 #g ch4 ,repeat4 #crd to #gth rows4 ,like the #bnd4 ,they may all be worked backwards and forwards4 #hth4-- sc4 on centre of #g ch41 #e ch41 4 ,repeat4 #ith4-- sc4 on centre of #e1 #c ch41 miss #b1 sc4 on #crd ch41 miss #a1 sc4 on #bnd1 4 ,repeat4 #ajth4--,sc4 on the beginning of the ch41 7a47 #c ch41 miss #b1 sc4 on #crd1 twice1 #f ch41 slip on same stitch1 #f ch41 slip on same stitch1 7a47 ,repeat4 #aath4--,sc4 on centre of #f ch41 #f ch41 sc4 in centre of next #f ch41 #e ch41 sc4 on centre of #c ch41 #e ch41 sc4 on centre of next #c ch4 ,repeat4 #abth4-- #c tc4 under #f ch41 #c tc4 under next #f ch41 #ab ch41 4 ,repeat4 #acth4-- #f dc4 on #f tc41 99 #c ch41 sc4 in #crd ch41 99 #d times1 4 ,then repeat from the beginning4 #adth4-- #f dc4 in #f of last row1 99 #e ch41 sc4 under #c ch41 99 #e times1 4 ,then repeat from the beginning4 #aeth4-- #f dc4 into the last #f1 99 #f ch41 sc4 under #e ch4 of last row1 99 #d times1 4 ,repeat to the end1 and fasten off4 ,,collar ,,in ,,tatting ,,or ,,frivolite ,,fig4 #aj4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #c2 ,italian net4 ,i may observe1 en passant1 that this cotton is the only one which has been manufactured expressly for ,tatting1 and is really suited for that work4 ,work the ovals and loops as seen in the ,engraving1 leaving threads wherever they appear to be required2 draw the pattern on colored paper1 from the engraving2 lay the net on1 and tack the various parts of them in their places1 according to the design2 sew over the threads1 centres1 c41 with the same cotton1 and cut out the net2 fill in the centre of each flower with a rosette of ,english ,point 7see ,part ,,iii471 worked in ,evans's ,mecklenburgh1 #ajj2 the other open parts might also very effectively be filled in like manner4 ,a muslin band must be sewed round the neck4 ,,another ,,collar ,,in ,,frivolite4 ,,fig4 #aa4 ,,materials4--,tatting cotton1 ,no4 #c4 ,make #ac large trefoils without the pearl edge1 and #ad smaller ones1 leaving the length of thread shown in the engraving between every two4 ,make also #ge ovals with pearl edge1 and two larger ones for the corners4 ,make up the collar like the last1 sewing over all the threads closely in a button-hole stitch4 ,,crochet ,,insertion4 ,,worked ,,the ,,short ,,way4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #fj1 for children's dresses1 c4 #ast4--#bf ch41 miss #g1 dc4 on #hth41 #b ch41 miss #b1 dc4 on #crd41 to the end4#c ,footnote #c3 ,turn the work at the end of every row4 #bnd4--,slip up the side of the last dc41 stitch #e ch41 dc4 over dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 dc4 over dc4 to the end4 #crd4--,slip up the side #e ch41 dc4 over dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #c times1 #c dc41 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 99 to the end4 #dth4--,slip as before1 #e ch41 dc4 over dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 twice4 #eth4--,slip as before #e ch41 dc4 over dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 #c times4 #fth4--,slip as before1 #e ch41 miss #b1 dc4 on dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 twice1 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 twice4 #gth4--,slip as before1 #e ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch4 miss #b1 #a dc4 #hth4--,slip as before1 #e ch41 #a dc4 on last of #g #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc4 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 to the end4 #ith4--,like #gth4 #ajth4--,like #fth4 ,this completes the pattern4 ,this insertion is of so delicate a texture that to appreciate it1 it ought to be seen1 lined with ribbon3 done in coarser materials1 it would be found equally pretty and useful for many articles of the lady's toilette4 ,,knitting ,,instructions4 ,illustration ,whatever other arts may become popular among ladies1 that of ,knitting will ever be held in high estimation1 not merely from the elegance of the articles produced by an accomplished knitter1 but from the great facility it offers for the employment of the invalid1 the aged1 and the blind4 ,the dexterity the last named acquire1 is too well known to need comment1 nor would ,i remark on it but for the sake of convincing those who possess the blessing of sight1 that there is no good reason for a piece of simple knitting so absorbing eyes1 ears1 and thoughts1 as to render them the mere knitting machines they usually are4 ,to see young ladies stooping1 with rounded shoulders and contracted chest1 over a simple piece of knitting1 no one would imagine that they were exercising an art in which the blind are the greatest adepts4 ,the fact is1 that the blind exercise their sense of touch as well as their memory1 until the most elaborate pattern is produced in a manner perfectly mechanical2 why then should we not be able1 in the same manner1 to use our fingers1 whilst our thoughts1 tongues1 and eyes1 are at liberty for the enjoyment of more intellectual pleasures8 ,a few hints will very soon enable knitters to pursue their favorite occupation whilst reading1 studying1 or conversing2 and although it may appear a matter of little or no consequence to be able to knit by touch1 none of us can tell how soon sickness or weak sight may compel us to abandon all employment which requires strong light or exertion of thought4 ,the sense of touch appears to be most acute at the extreme points of the fingers2 and it is desirable so to hold our work as to avail ourselves of this power4 ,the needles are to be held in the following manner3-- ,the work being held in the left hand1 the needle must be held closely pressed between the palm and the third and fourth fingers1 whilst the foremost stitches are kept near the point by the thumb and second finger2 the first is thus left free to assist in knitting1 slipping the stitches forward1 shortening the point of the needle1 c4 ,the usual mode of knitting1 is to hold the stitch between the thumb and the first finger2 and those who have been accustomed to this method1 and will try mine1 will be astonished at the rapidity with which the delicate point of the fore-finger distinguishes between one kind of stitch and another2 the other needle is held between the thumb and first finger of the right hand1 and rests on the hand4 ,the thread is passed loosely round the little finger1 under the second and third1 and over the tip of the first1 which is quite close to the needle4 ,the thumb should be quite quiet--the jerking motion1 so observable in some knitters1 being both inelegant and detrimental to the work4 ,knitting needles should have no sharp points4 ,the needles should gradually taper to a rounded1 smooth end1 half an inch1 at least1 being thus gradually diminished4 ,i have1 as yet1 only found one make of this description2 but in no manufactured article is there a greater difference than between good and bad knitting needles4 ,some patterns have a much better effect woven than knitted1 principally from the superior method of diminishing2 of that1 and the best mode of casting on1 ,i have given diagrams4 ,fig4 #a4--,this gives the first process in casting on with two needles1 7by far the best method47 ,make a loop with your finger and thumb1 slip the needle in1 and with the thread 7a7 knit in the ordinary way4 ,this forms the first loop4 ,you will now hold the needle in the left hand2 take another in the right1 and slip it into the last loop4 ,with the point of the finger1 carry the thread between the two needles1 and bring the point of the right hand needle in front1 7fig4 #b17 when the stitch is completed4 ,it must then be slipped on to the left hand needle1 and the process repeated4 ,fig4 #c4--,,purling1 7or pearling17 is generally known4 ,the right hand needle is inserted in front of the stitch1 the thread passed round it1 and then the point pushed backwards1 and drawn out behind4 ,fig4 #d4--,represents the woven method of knitting three together1 which should always be employed where the centre stitch is intended for the uppermost one4 ,the usual mode is this3--slip #a1 knit #b together1 pass the slip stitch over the knitted4 ,the best way is to slip two together off the needle1 knit the third1 and slip the two over4 ,the centre of the three stitches will then be the front one4 ,if a stitch is to be made before and after1 you will merely bring the thread in front on each occasion4 ,figs4 #e and #f4--,show the manner of purling three together in the back rows1 to correspond with the knitted ones4 ,we will suppose an open hem to be on each side1 as seen in fig4 #g4 ,put the thread round the needle1 immediately before the loose stitch c2 then insert the point of the right hand needle in b c1 taking both off the left hand4 ,purl a and slip the others over them4 ,illustration3 ,,the ,,ladies ,,own ,,book1 ,,and ,,companion ,,to ,,the ,,work ,,table4 ,,part ,,iv4 ,,dick ,,fitzgerald1 ,,new-,,york ,in working from knitting receipts it is necessary to remember that no two people knit alike1 and therefore1 the needles which suit one person admirably1 will be too large1 or too small for another4 ,i give the sizes which suit an ordinary worker2 but those who are conscious of being very light1 or very loose knitters1 will do well to use needles one or two sizes coarser or finer4 ,i trust that the above observations will enable every reader to understand perfectly the receipts for various choice and beautiful patterns in knitting1 which ,i shall introduce1 from time to time1 in our pages4 ,i therefore proceed1 at once1 to the articles represented in the ,engraving4 ,,infant',s ,,cap ,,crown4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,materials4--,cotton ,nos4 #gj and #ij4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb1 eagle card-board gauge1 and a fine sewing needle4 ,this cap crown is formed by a very pretty admixture of crochet with point lace stitches4 ,the sprig1 which forms the centre as well as the border1 is made in crochet1 in a ,honiton lace pattern4 ,the mode of engraving1 with figures to indicate the number of stitches in every part1 is one invented by myself1 already familiar to many of our readers1 to whom it has been found extremely useful4 ,work the crochet with ,no4 #gj cotton4 ,begin the sprig at the end of the stem 7a17 work up the two-leaved side1 then the flower1 and down the other side of the stem1 beginning where you left off3 #aj ch4 for the stem4 ,,leaf1 #cj ch41 join in the first to form a loop2 work the first and last stitches in sc4 and all the rest in dc41 three stitches being made in the centre chain2 slip #a at the joining of the loop2 #af ch4 for stem2 repeat the leaf with #bj ch4 instead of #cj2 #aj ch4 for stem4 ,,flower4--,this is worked round and round1 the right side being always uppermost1 and the thread being passed under the stem at every round4 ,the inner circle is made first2 #ah ch41 join into a loop1 and work all round in sc4 #e ch41 #a dc4 through every #crd of last round1 #e times1 #e ch41 slip #a at the stem4 ,work round these in sc4 99 #ac ch41 #a sc4 through dc4 of last round 99 #e times #ac ch41 slip #a on the stem4 ,sc4 all round1 working on the chain stitches only4 ,make a slip stitch at the stem to close the flower well2 sc4 on the #aj ch42 then make a leaf of #bj ch4 opposite to the last2 #h sc4 on chain4 ,,bud4--#bb ch41 #a dc4 on the #ahth1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 twice1 #b ch41 miss #b1 slip #a4 ,this forms the open part of the bud4 ,work round it1 #a sc41 #a dc41 #e tc41 #b dc41 #a sc41 #d ch41 #c sc4 on #d1 #b slip1 #d ch41 #c sc4 on #d1 #a sc41 #b dc41 #e tc41 #a dc4 #a slip4 ,slip down the stem of the bud1 sc4 #h on the flower stem1 make a leaf opposite the first1 work down the stem1 and fasten off4 ,take a fine needle1 and run a few stitches on the wrong side with each end1 when you may cut them off closely4 ,the ,,border which would serve very well for a collar1 or any other article1 is made thus3--#cb ch4 for each pattern1 or #bef for the round4 ,close1 to form it into a circle1 and on one side of the chain work thus3-- #ast round4-- slip #b1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a tc41 99 twice2 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 slip #b1 #bj ch41 miss #ad1 slip #b1 #h times4 #bnd1 or outer round4--7,to be worked on the other side of the chain47 #b slip on #b slip1 #a sc41 #a dc41 #a tc41 #h long tc41 #a tc41 #a dc41 #a sc41 #af times4 #crd or inner round4--7,to be worked on the first1 beginning at the open hem47 #b slip on #b slip1 #a sc41 #b dc41 #h tc41 #b dc4 #a sc4 #b slip2 then on the #bj ch41 #a sc41 #g dc41 #a sc41 #a slip1 #ab ch42 form these into a loop1 work round them in sc41 then continue on the #bj1 #a slip1 #a sc41 #g dc41 #a sc41 #h times4 ,fasten off1 and put on the pearl edging with the ends of thread4 ,to make up the crown1 draw a circle the size of the copy1 on mounted paper1 tack the crochet on it1 and connect all the parts with open ,english lace worked in ,evans's boar's-head1 ,no4 #ij4 7,for the ,point ,lace ,stitches1 see ,part ,,iii4 of this work47 ,those who prefer it1 may sew the crochet on a round of ,brussels net1 as is so generally done with real ,honiton lace4 ,,initials4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,materials4--,embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #gj1 white1 and ingrain scarlet4 ,these letters are particularly suitable for marking linen1 and similar heavy articles4 ,they should be done in satin stitch1 with the white cotton1 and then every part should have a fine scarlet thread run on each side of it1 surrounding the raised part1 and sewed closely over with the same ingrain scarlet cotton4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,white embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,the work of these letters should be very delicately done1 the eyelet-holes made with a coarse needle2 the point of a stiletto would make them too large4 ,these letters are suitable for handkerchiefs4 ,,knitted ,,bag4 ,,fig #d4 ,,materials4--#g shades of pink1 blue1 or green ,german wool1 #b yards of silk cord to match1 and #aj silver rings2 bone needles1 ,no4 #h4 ,cast on #ij stitches with the darkest shade4 #ast4--,slip #a1 make #a1 knit #b together1 knit #b together1 make #a1 knit #a1 2 repeat to the end4 #bnd row4--,plain knitting4 ,do two rows in every shade progressively1 until you come to the lightest1 when you will knit four1 then two of every shade back to the darkest1 with which you will fasten off4 ,sew up the side4 ,for the foundation use four needles1 ,no4 #bj4 ,pick up #cj stitches on each of three needles1 and knit #c plain rounds with the darkest shade but one4 #dth round4--,make #a1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #eth4--7,with the next lightest shade1 continuing to change the wool every fourth round17 knit #ab1 knit #b t41 repeat4 #fth4--,knit #aa1 knit #b t41 repeat4 #gth4--,knit #aj1 knit #b t41 repeat4 #hth4--,plain knitting4 #ith4--,make #a1 knit #b t41 repeat4 #ajth4--,knit #b t41 k4 #i1 repeat4 #aath4--,knit #b t41 k4 #h1 repeat4 #abth4--,knit #b t41 k4 #g1 repeat4 #acth4--,plain knitting4 #adth4--,make #a1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #aeth4--,k4 #h1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #afth4--,k4 #g1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #agth4--,k4 #f1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #ahth to #bbnd4--,like the last #e4 #bcrd4--,plain knitting4 #bdth4--,m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 repeat4 #beth4--,k4 #b t41 k4 #e1 repeat4 #bfth4--,k4 #b t41 k4 #d1 repeat4 #bgth4--,k4 #b t41 k4 #c1 repeat4 ,take up the remaining stitches and sew up the centre1 on the wrong side1 with an embroidery needle4 ,,lacet ,,bag4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,this bag is made1 as its name implies1 of ,braid1 7that is1 ,lacet72 it is done very much in the manner of point lace4 ,draw the pattern on colored paper1 of the proper dimensions for the bag2 paste a calico lining on the wrong side of the paper1 and with colored silk braid go over all the black lines1 fastening the ends of braid very neatly and securely to each other4 ,then all the double lines seen are to be worked in ,venetian bars1 and the single ones in ,sorrento bars1 with sewing-silk exactly the color of the braid4 ,work the ,venetian bars on three or four threads1 and run the needle in the braid from one to the next4 ,when complete1 it must be removed from the paper1 and another side done4 ,the bag must then be made of silk that will harmonize well with the color of the braid1 as green with violet1 orange gold color1 with maroon or purple1 and so on4 ,a steel clasp and tassels complete this elegant bag4 ,d',,oyley ,,in ,,square ,,crochet4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,for full directions for ,square ,crochet1 see ,part ,i4 this work4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #cf1 with crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb1 eagle card-board gauge1 will make this ,d'oyley a proper size for dessert4 ,for other purposes1 coarser or finer materials may be used4 ,a pretty edging should be worked all round it4 ,one of the most suitable is that termed the ,ivy-leaf ,edging1 in the 8,,home ,,circle10 ,no4 #aja1 ,vol4 ,,iv41 or ,fig4 #h1 on the frontispiece of this number1 will do as well4 ,i may here give a hint for which1 doubtless1 many of my readers will thank me4 ,all the designs given for ,d'oyleys and ,anti-,macassars in square crochet may be equally well worked in square netting1 the pattern being darned in afterwards4 ,the material used for ,anti-,macassars should be good and strong knitting cotton1 ,evans's ,nos4 #h or #ab2 but ,d'oyleys look best done in ,evans's ,mechlenburgh thread1 ,nos4 #g or #h1 the design being darned in ,mecklenburgh1 ,no4 #ab4 ,square ,netting is done in the following manner3 ,begin with one stitch only1 and net backwards and forwards1 increasing one stitch at the end of every row until as many squares are made as may be required1 reckoning from the point up one side4 ,then decrease1 in the same manner1 until only one stitch is left4 ,when stretched out1 this forms a perfect square1 every stitch being true4 ,should an oblong piece be required1 7as for a ,bread-basket ,d'oyley17 work to the widest part as already directed1 then continue to increase at one side1 leaving a stitch at the other1 until as much more is done as may be necessary for the entire length4 ,finish as in the perfect square4 ,crests and coats of arms are particularly suitable for working in square netting4 ,,crochet ,,edging4 ,,worked ,,the ,,long ,,way4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,materials4--,for ,anti-,macassars1 use cotton ,no4 #h2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #af4 ,for trimming petticoats1 cotton1 ,no4 #cj2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ai or #bj4 ,make a chain of the length required2 or1 to trim an ,anti-,macassar1 work a row of sc4 all round4 #ast4 row4--,dc4 #bnd4--#a dc41 #a ch41 miss #a4 ,repeat4 #crd4-- #g sc41 #e ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #f ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #g ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #f ch41 miss #a1 #a dc4 #e ch41 miss #a1 4 ,repeat4 7,in working an ,anti-,macassar1 do not miss any at the corners in this row1 and take care that the #g chain comes exactly at the corner4 ,this will allow a sufficient fulness for the shell to lie flat47 #dth4-- #e sc4 7beginning on the second of #e17 #e ch41 sc4 under the first loop2 99 #f ch41 sc41 #g 7#g sc4 in last row17 #e ch41 sc4 under first loop1 99 #f ch41 sc4 under next loop1 99 #d times1 #e ch41 4 ,repeat4 #eth4-- #c sc41 7beginning on the #bnd of the #e17 #e ch41 sc41 under the first loop2 99 #f ch41 sc4 #g under next loop1 99 #f times1 #e ch41 4 ,repeat4 #fth4-- #a sc4 on centre of #c in last row1 #d ch41 sc4 under first loop1 99 #e ch41 sc4 under next4 99 twice1 #f ch41 sc4 under next1 twice1 #e ch41 sc4 under next1 twice1 #d ch41 4 ,repeat4 #gth4--,begin on the sc4 stitch1 #d sc41 #d ch41 slip the needle in the threads of the last sc4 stitch1 and draw the thread through1 4 ,continue thus all round4 ,work every stitch of the last row2 the appearance is that a strong and solid edge1 with dots at equal distances4 ,,worked ,,the ,,short ,,way4 ,this ,edging being more suitable for trimming articles of the lady's wardrobe than ,anti-,macassars and ,d'oyleys1 should be worked with ,evans's boar's-head1 ,no4 #cj1 crochet hook ,no4 #bj2 or for children's dresses1 cotton1 ,no4 #dj1 crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb1 eagle card-board gauge4 ,make a chain of #ag4 ,miss #g1 dc4 in #hth1 #b ch42 miss #b1 dc4 in #crd1 #e ch41 miss #e1 dc4 in last4 #bnd4--,turn the work4--#c ch41 #e dc4 on #e ch41 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #c ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 twice1 #d ch41 miss none1 #a dc4 #crd4--,turn the work4 #e ch41 dc4 under first loop1 #c ch41 dc4 under the second1 #c ch41 #d dc41 7the #ast on #ast ch4 of the next loop17 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 on the chain immediately after #e dc41 #e ch41 miss #e dc41 dc4 on third of the #c ch4 at the edge4 ,repeat the #bnd and #crd rows until the required quantity is completed4 ,,lady',s ,,chemisette4 ,illustration ,,materials4--,cotton ,no4 #dj1 crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb1 eagle card-board gauge4 ,make a chain of #cf stitches4 #ast4--,dc4 #bnd4--,open square crochet4 #crd4--,dc4 #dth4--,open square crochet4 #eth4--,dc4 #fth4--#aj sc41 #aj ch41 miss #d1 #a dc4 under #eth ch41 #af ch41 miss #e1 #a dc4 under #fth1 #aj ch41 miss #d1 #a dc4 under #eth4 ,turn1 and work the three loops in sc42 turn again1 and work them in dc42 turn again1 and work three scallops in the first large one1 thus3 #a sc41 #a dc4 in one stitch1 #c tc4 in the next1 #a dc41 #a sc in the next1 #c times2 then1 on the large loop work six times in the same way1 and on the other small1 three times2 finish the row in sc4 #gth4--,turn the work2 make #ae ch41 #b sc4 on the #eth and #fth of the loop of #aj1 #g ch41 #b sc4 at the back of the second loop1 in the eighth and ninth of the chain of #af2 #g ch41 #b sc4 on fifth and sixth of the first loop of #aj2 #ae ch41 #b sc4 on the last two stitches at the end of the row4 #hth4--,turn the work1 and do a row of sc4 #ith4--,turn2 #ae ch41 #b dc4 over the middle loops of the first scallop1 #ae ch41 #b dc4 in the middle of the second scallop1 #ae ch1 #b dc4 in the third scallop1 #ae ch42 sc4 on the last stitch of the row4 #ajth4--,turn and work a row of dc4 #aath4--,turn and work a row of open square crochet4 #abth4--,like tenth4 #acth4--,like eleventh4 #adth4--,like tenth4 ,then repeat from the sixth row1 observing that as the first lace row has only one scallop and this has two1 you must count the number of stitches in the last row1 and leaving three from the centre for half of the space between the two flowers1 and sixteen for the three loops1 so that you will work in sc4 from the beginning of the row to within nineteen of the centre2 then the chain of ten1 of sixteen1 and of ten again1 as directed in row #f1 and six sc4 stitches in the centre2 the remainder of the row to correspond with the first part4 ,the rest of the ,chemisette is to be worked according to the directions already given1 observing1 that as the number of stitches gradually increases1 an extra scallop must be made in every new pattern1 and care must be taken that they fall regularly between those of the previous row4 ,when a different depth is done1 to come up to the neck1 leave a space of two patterns or so1 in the centre1 and continue working at each side1 not increasing at the outer edge1 and diminishing every row at the inner one1 in order to fit the neck4 ,it is to be set in a habit-shirt of net or ,mull muslin1 and two rows of crochet-lace put round the neck4 ,,anti-,,macassar4 ,,fig4 #h4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #ab4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #ad4 ,eagle card-board gauge4 ,make a chain of #i4 ,close in the #crd for a round1 leaving #b chain4 ,work under this round #ab dc4 ,sc4 on #ast dc41 #e ch4 miss #a1 #f times4 ,sc4 on #ast stitch of the #ast chain of #e1 #c dc4 on three next1 sc4 on #eth1 slip on sc41 #c times2 repeat from the beginning until as many are done as may be required for the length of an ,anti-,macassar1 without a border4 ,turn1 and work the three loops left in each flower1 like the first three1 with a single crochet stitch on the chain which connects them4 ,break off your cotton4 #e ch41 dc4 under each side of the centre stitch of the second loop1 #i ch41 dc4 in the same place of the next flower1 and continue so to the end1 leaving off with #e chain4 ,work on this a row of dc41 then an open row1 thus3--#a tc41 #a ch41 miss #a4 ,repeat4 ,the next row in dc4 ,make another length of flowers1 and join them to the last row1 thus3--in working the second side of the flowers1 join the middle loop to the last row of dc41 at the same intervals as the previous row of flowers is united4 ,repeat alternately the open hem and the flowers1 until the ,anti-,macassar is sufficiently wide1 finishing with the three rows which form the open hem4 ,work an open hem at the other side1 and at both ends1 carrying the dc4 all round4 ,beyond this is a round of small eyelet-holes which are thus worked3--1 make a chain of #i1 close in #gth for a loop1 under which work #b dc42 drop the loop off your hook1 take up a loop of the edge of the ,anti-,macassar1 then the dropped loop and make #c more dc4 under the chain1 reckoning as one thread the dropped loop and that of the border1 repeat1--joining such eyelet-hole to every fifth chain of the ,anti-,macassar4 ,work the #bnd side of the eyelet-holes at each corner1 make a chain all round connecting it with the eyelet-holes in every fifth stitch4 ,next round1 #a dc4 in the middle loop of the #bnd side of the eyelet-holes1 #d ch41 repeat throughout the round with #e ch4 at the corners1 dc4 all round1 working three stitches in one at the corners4 ,next round1 #a tc41 #a ch41 miss #a1 all round1 not missing any at the corners4 ,next round1 dc1 with three in one at the corners4 ,next1 #e dc4 #e ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #g ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #e ch41 miss #a 1 repeat all round1 taking care that the #g ch4 come exactly at each corner4 ,next1 sc4 on each side of the #crd dc41 #c ch41 sc4 in the loop of #e1 #c ch41 sc4 in the centre of the loop of #g1 #c ch41 sc4 in the #bnd loop of #e1 #c ch41 sc4 on each side of the #crd of the #e dc4 ,next1 sc4 on a loop1 #c ch41 sc4 on next1 1 repeat all round1 but with #e ch4 at the top of each ,vandyke1 and three chains of #e at each corner4 ,this is one of the patterns which look extremely well when formed by an intermixture of cotton and wool1 or colored and white cottons4 ,a rich scarlet1 green1 or cerise wool may be used for all the eyelet-holes and the edge3 the open-hems1 throughout1 in white cotton2 or pink and drab cottons wash and wear extremely well1 and possess the additional advantage of not being so soon soiled as white inevitably is1 particularly in ,london4 ,,crochet ,,mat4 ,illustration ,,materials4--,berlin wool--#c shades of brown1 #c of green1 #a of violet1 and #a of yellow4 ,make the eyelet-hole in the centre1 with the lightest brown2 #i ch41 form into a round1 and work under it #ah sc4 stitches4 ,take the medium shade of brown and make #f similar eyelet-holes1 which are to be joined to each other1 and to the centre one1 by sewing them at the back with a rug needle4 ,with the darkest brown1 make #ab more eyelet-holes1 and having worked them all round in sc41 join them to the #f1 7#b to each7 as seen in the ,engraving4 ,twelve heartsease must then be worked1 thus3 with violet wool make a chain of #e1 close into a round1 #aa ch41 sc4 under the loop1 twice1 #c ch41 slip at the back of the loops1 work in dc4 round the two loops1 missing the last stitch of the first loop1 and the first of the second1 and working together the two stitches at the joining of the two loops4 ,end with a sc4 under the chain of five4 ,take the yellow1 sc4 under the chain of #e1 #i ch41 sc4 under same1 #aa ch41 sc4 under same1 #i ch41 sc4 under the same4 ,slip on the round to the beginning of the yellow1 and dc4 the third violet and second yellow chain together2 dc4 all round the #i ch41 connect it to the #aa by two stitches1 and then dc4 round the #aa2 join the second #i to the #aa by two stitches1 and1 at the last two1 connect with the first violet petal4 ,fasten off1 and sew the twelve heartsease round the eyelet-holes4 ,take the middle shade of green1 sc4 on the left side yellow petal of the first heartsease1 #ab ch41 sc4 on the right side yellow petal of the second1 #i ch41 slip across the back of the flower1 2 repeat all round4 ,with the same shade of green-- #g dc4 on the top of the violet petals of the first heartsease1 #c ch41 #b dc4 on the centre loops of the #ab ch41 2 repeat all round4 ,dark green1 #e sc4 #d ch41 miss #a1 sc4 the other three1 #e sc41 #f ch41 miss #a1 sc4 #e of them1 #e sc41 #d ch41 sc4 #c of them1 #aj sc4 2 repeat all round1 ending with #e sc4 ,the chains form veinings for leaves4 ,second shade of green--sc4 on sc41 and tc4 all round all the veinings1 working two in one at every point4 ,take the lightest green1 and repeat the preceding round1 working three in the two at the point of each vein1 and catching the sides together4 ,with the same shade1 work the scallops all round1 dc4 in #a stitch1 #c tc4 in next1 #a dc4 in next 3 repeat4 ,,elementary ,,instructions ,,in ,,tatting ,,or ,,frivolite4 ,for a considerable period the art of ,tatting1 long disused in this country1 has been revived in the fashionable world2 and like many other things which have disappeared for a time1 has acquired greater lustre and beauty than it ever before possessed4 ,the exercise of the art of ,tatting as known to our grandmothers1 was merely an elegant apology for exhibiting a pretty hand and brilliant rings2 the actual production was never more elaborate than a neat1 but rather substantial edging for a child's dress or a lady's frill4 ,no wonder that our friends on the other side of the ,channel christened this apology for a lady's idleness pre-eminently by the appropriate term ,frivolite4 ,at the late ,french ,exposition of ,industry1 however1 some very beautiful and elaborate specimens having been exhibited1 this kind of work again became the rage1 both in ,france and ,england2 and doubtless the elegant pieces of ,tatting which may be seen in our own ,exhibition1 will tend yet further to keep the work popular4 ,the only necessary instruments are the shuttle1 or short netting-needle1 and a gilt pin and ring1 united by a chain4 ,the thread used for ,frivolite should be strong and soft2 something like knitting cotton4 ,the first point to be attended to in ,tatting1 is the mode of holding the hands4 ,the shuttle1 filled with thread in the manner of a netting-needle1 should be held between the thumb and the first and second fingers of the right hand1 about half a yard of the thread being unwound4 ,take up this thread two or three inches from the end1 between the thumb and first finger of the left hand1 letting the end fall in the palm of the hand2 pass the thread round the other fingers of the right hand1 keeping them rather apart from each other1 and bring it again between the thumb and fore-finger1 thus making a circle round the extended fingers4 ,two stitches only are used in ,tatting1 and it is usual to do each alternately1 as a prettier edging is thus formed than can be made in any other way4 ,this is1 therefore1 called the double stitch4 ,the first stitch to be learned is termed the ,english ,stitch4 ,this is made in the following manner3-- ,let the thread between the right hand and the left fall towards you1 7as will be seen in the ,engraving71 slip the shuttle under the thread between the first and second fingers1 and draw it out to the right rather quickly1 keeping it in a horizontal line with the left hand4 ,it will be found that a slipping-loop is formed on this thread with that which went round the fingers4 ,hold the shuttle steadily1 with the thread stretched tightly out1 whilst with the second finger of the left hand1 you slip the loop thus made under the thumb4 ,illustration ,i may here remark that when ,tatting will not draw up1 it is because the operation is reversed2 and instead of the loop being formed by the thread round the fingers1 it is formed by that connected with the shuttle4 ,this is usually caused by the worker letting the thread from the shuttle hang loosely instead of drawing it out1 and holding it at full stretch4 ,there is very little difference between the ,french and the ,english stitch4 ,it simply consists in throwing the thread in a loop over the left1 and inserting the shuttle upwards under the circle round the fingers1 instead of downwards1 as in the ,english stitch4 ,the accompanying ,engraving gives a clear idea of the manner in which this is to be done4 ,the shuttle is drawn out1 and the stitch formed exactly in the same manner as in the previous stitch4 ,illustration ,the two stitches thus made form one double stitch2 and when as many are done1 and drawn close to each other1 as may be directed1 the stitches are held between the first finger and thumb and the other fingers are withdrawn from the circle of thread1 which is gradually diminished by drawing out the shuttle until the loop of ,tatting is nearly or entirely closed4 ,the tatted loops should be quite close to each other1 unless particular directions to the contrary are given4 ,sometimes ,tatting is ornamented by a succession of tiny loops1 something like pearl edging2 these are made with the pin previously spoken of4 ,slip the ring on the left hand thumb1 that the pin1 being attached to the chain1 may be ready for use4 ,make as many double stitches as the directions prescribe1 twist the pin in the circle of thread1 and hold it between the fore-finger and thumb whilst making more stitches2 repeat4 ,tatting should always be done with a very cool1 dry hand4 ,common ,tatting is merely a length of tatted loops1 with or without picots4 ,trefoil ,tatting is done by drawing up tightly three loops1 made quite close together1 and then leaving a short space before making more4 ,the ,trefoil is sewed into shape afterwards with a common sewing needle4 ,a pretty variety may be made by trimming a number of large loops with others very much smaller1 which should be sewed round them4 ,in this case a little distance must be allowed between all the large loops4 ,i should always advise learners to use coarse crochet silk for their first attempts in ,tatting1 as it is very much easier to do with this material than with any other4 ,tatting is usually sewed on net1 for collars1 c4 ,i1 however1 greatly prefer the effect when the ,tatting is formed into a solid mass by the aid of ,point lace stitches4 ,diagrams of all these may be found in ,part ,,iii4 of this work4 ,,embroidery ,,on ,,cambric4 ,,fig4 #a4 ,,suitable ,,for ,,the ,,corner ,,of ,a ,,handkerchief4 ,,materials4--,ingrain red and white embroidery cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,the design may be traced on the cambric from that given in the ,engraving1 and then worked in raised satin stitch2 the flowers 7excepting the calyxes7 in red cotton1 and the leaves1 stems1 and calyxes in white4 ,the little dots in the flowers are raised4 ,,fig4 #b4 ,,to ,,contain ,,initials4 ,,materials4--,either the same as in the proceeding1 or white embroidery cotton only4 ,for a morning handkerchief1 it would look very well in scarlet1 the initials only being in white4 ,the little rounds in this design are eyelet-holes very neatly sewed over4 ,,knitted ,,lace ,,collar4 ,,fig4 #c4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #dj2 needles1 ,no4 #bd4 ,cast on fifteen stitches4 #ast ,row4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over4 #bnd1 and every alternate row4--,purl all but two1 and knit them plain4 #crd4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over the knitted1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over4 #eth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #a1 pass the slip stitch over4 #gth4--,knit #d1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #a4 #ith4--,knit #c1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #aath4--,knit #b1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #e1 m4 #a1 slip #a1 k4 #b t41 pass the slip stitch over1 m4 #a1 k4 #c4 #abth4--,as #bnd4 ,repeat until sufficient is done1 then trim it with lace4 ,take up the stitches at the neck4 ,knit one row1 taking two together every ten4 ,knit a few rows more and cast off4 ,for the edging1 the same materials4 ,cast on sixteen stitches1 and knit one plain row4 #ast4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b1 99 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 99 #c times1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #bnd4--,pearl #aa1 k4 #f4 #crd4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #c1 99 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 99 #c times1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #dth4--,pearl #ab1 k4 #f4 #eth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 99 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 99 #c times1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #fth4--,pearl #ad1 k4 #f4 #gth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 99 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 99 #c times1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #hth4--,pearl #ae1 k4 #f4 #ith4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #c1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 99 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 99 #c times1 m4 #a1 k4 #b4 #ajth4--,pearl #af1 k4 #f4 #aath4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #a1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #i4 #abth4--,knit #a1 1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 #d times1 p4 #g1 k4 #f4 #acth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b1 twice1 k4 #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #c t41 m4 #a1 k4 #aa4 #adth4--,knit #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 #d times1 p4 #e1 k4 #f4 #aeth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 k4 #aj4 #afth4--,knit #a1 k4 #b t41 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 #d times1 p4 #c1 k4 #f4 #agth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #ac4 #ahth4--,like #afth1 but purl #b4 #aith4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b t41 k4 #aj4 #bjth4--,like #afth1 without purling any4 #bast4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #aj4 #bbnd4--,plain knitting4 ,repeat as often as may be required4 ,i may observe that this ,edging is well suited for the trimming of a counterpane1 or any similar large piece of work4 ,it should1 of course1 be knitted in suitable materials4 ,,spanish ,,crochet ,,edging ,,fig4 #d4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #af2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #ah2 eagle card-board gauge4 #bi ch41 turn1 sc4 in #aeth1 #e ch41 slip into the same stitches1 #g ch41 miss #d1 sc4 in #eth1 #e ch41 slip into the same1 twice1 #g ch41 sc4 in #ast ch4--this forms the foundation4 ,you will now begin to work the pattern4 #ast4--,turn the work1 #g ch41 sc4 under last #g1 #e ch41 slip on the sc4 stitch1 #g ch41 sc4 under next loop1 #e ch41 slip on the sc4 stitch1 #c times1 #e ch41 sc4 under the same loop4 #bnd4--,turn the work1 and slip #c on #c of the last #e ch41 #g ch41 sc4 under the next loop1 #e ch41 slip on sc4 stitch1 #c times1 #g ch41 sc4 under last loop4 #crd4--,turn the work1 #g ch41 sc41 under the next loop1 #e ch41 slip on sc4 stitch1 #d times1 #d ch41 #c dc4 under the same loop1 #c ch41 #a dc4 in the last of the #c slip of the preceding row1 #d ch41 #a dc4 in the first of the #c slip1 #c ch41 #b dc4 and #a sc4 in the first loop of the foundation4 #dth4--,turn the work1 #c ch41 #c dc4 under first loop1 #c ch41 #d dc4 under next1 #c ch41 #c dc4 under next1 #c ch41 #a sc4 under next1 #g ch41 sc4 under next loop1 #e ch41 slip through sc4 stitch1 #c times1 #g ch41 sc4 under the last loop4 ,as ,dentelles de ,laine are at present such fashionable trimmings for aprons1 dresses1 and mantles1 our friends would find such an edging as the above1 done in black or colored ,pyrenees wool1 far more beautiful and economical than anything they can purchase4 ,it may also be done in crochet1 or netting silks1 and would then be a most elegant trimming for the ,mandarin sleeves1 and berthes of dresses4 ,when fine cotton edging is desired use ,no4 #cj1 and crochet hook #bj or #ba4 ,,collar ,,in ,,frivolite4 ,,fig4 #e4 ,,materials4--,bobbinet and fancy ditto1 for the foundation of the collar4 ,for the ,frivolite1 use ,tatting-cotton1 ,no4 #c4 ,cut out two collars1 one in each kind of net1 and connect them by a line of close button-hole stitch at the distance of an inch-and-a-quarter from the outer edge and ends4 ,then cut off the inner part of the fancy net and the outer of the plain1 leaving thus one complete collar composed of two kinds of net4 ,make in ,frivolite twenty-five stars of eight loops each1 all drawn up as closely as possible4 ,the loops should consist of about twenty double stitches each2 make also twenty-four eyelet-holes in ,tatting2 sew the stars and eyelet-holes alternate on the line of button-hole stitch1 beginning and ending with a star4 ,then make as many loops 7all at a distance from each other7 as may be necessary to cover the plain net in the manner seen in the ,engraving2 sew them on along the lines of thread4 ,for the border1 do a length of ,tatting in alternate single and trefoil loops1 with a small piece of thread between each2 and1 after whipping the net1 sew the ,tatting on4 ,the corner trefoils should be larger than the others4 ,a narrow band of net may be put on the neck4 ,ladies who prefer ,crochet to ,tatting1 may work any pattern given for ,frivolite in their favorite manner1 by substituting dc4 stitches instead of the double tatting stitches4 ,for working eyelet-holes in ,crochet1 ,i refer my readers to the instructions for the ,anti-,macassar1 in ,part ,v4 of this work4 ,,collar ,,in ,,frivolite4 ,,fig4 #f4 ,,materials4--,tatting-cotton1 ,no4 #c2 shuttle and pin4 ,make #bb trefoils thus3 #ah double stitches for each loop1 which must be drawn up quite tightly2 three of these form a trefoil4 ,make #bb trefoils1 of #ae double stitches1 in the same manner for the next row2 and then a similar set of #ab1 #i1 and #f double stitches in each loop4 ,sew the trefoil of a collar of fancy net2 put on #b rows of tatted purled edging1 as indicated in the ,engraving1 finish last line of ,trefoils with a tatted round1 and sew a muslin band round the neck4 ,,fish ,,cloth4 ,,fig4 #g4 ,,materials4--,cotton of the following colors3 two reels white1 two green1 one dark blue1 one light blue1 one black1 one lemon color4 ,the colors will be indicated throughout by their respective initials4 ,the cotton should be ,nos4 #aj or #ab1 and a very small quantity of ,evans's boar's-head1 ,no4 #dj2 hooks1 ,nos4 #aj and #bj2 eagle card-board gauge4 ,begin by making the lemon slices thus3--with cotton1 ,no4 #dj2 hook1 ,no4 #bj1 make #a chain of #ab2 close it into a loop1 and work it all round in dc41 taking the stitches under the chain4 ,do this four times1 when all the pips will be made4 ,with the yellow cotton1 work a chain1 connecting all these from point to point1 in a circle4 ,work a round of white in the yellow1 with two tc4 stitches in every chain4 ,then a round of tc4 in yellow on the white1 with two stitches in every alternate one4 ,this completes one lemon slice4 ,four of them must be made and sewed on the corners of the fish cloth after it is completed4 ,the pips only are to be done with a fine needle and fine cotton4 ,with the coarse white cotton1 and hook1 ,no4 #aj1 make a chain of #aaf2 work eight rows in open square crochet4 #ith4--#ag os4 in white1 #a dc4 in dark blue1 #c dc4 in light blue1 #b ch4 in white1 #b dc4 light blue1 #ah open squares in white4 ,observe that in future rows the colors will be indicated by their respective initials4 #ajth4--#ag os4 w41 #a dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #b ch4 w41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #ah os4 w4 #aath4--#ag os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b #b1 dc4 w41 8 dc4 l4 b41 #ag os4 w4 #abth4--#af os4 w41 #c dc4 d41 #b dc4 l4 b41 #b dc4 b41 7to form the eye71 8 dc4 w41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #ag os4 w4 #acth4--#af os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #d dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ag os4 w4 #ad4--af os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #d dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #af os4 w4 #aeth4--#ae os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #a dc4 d4 b41 #ae os41 w4 #afth4--#ae os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #f dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b41 #a dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #a ch4 w42 open squares in white to the end4 #agth4--#ae os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #f dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #f dc4 l4 b42 open squares in white to the end4 #ahth4--#ad os4 w41 ending with one chain1 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 dc4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #a dc4 w41 #f dc4 l4 b42 finish with os4 in white4 #aith4--#ad os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #aa dc4 w41 #f dc4 l4 b42 open squares to the end in white4 #bjth--#ad os4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #ac dc4 w41 #f dc4 l4 b42 finish with open squares in white4 #bast and #bbnd4--,like #bj4 #bcrd4--#ac os4 w41 #a ch1 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ae dc4 w41 #g dc4 l4 b42 open squares in white to the end4 #bdth4--#ac os4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ag dc4 w41 #f dc4 l4 b42 finish with white in os4 #beth4--,begin on the first1 leaving out the open squares4 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ai dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b4 #bfth to #cast inclusive4--,the same4 ,now turn back to the twenty-fifth row1 and begin a chain in the last stitch of the light blue for the fin2 let the chain be composed of twelve stitches2 on that chain1 work #b sc41 #c dc41 #g tc42 turn1 and work #g dc41 #b sc41 which will make it even with the row above1 if the three last stitches are missed along this2 work a row of sc4 to unite it to the fish1 as in the ,engraving4 ,then work open squares in white from the row you first missed1 then to the last1 that is1 the thirty-first row4 ,do the same on the other side of the fish1 taking care that the lower fin reaches a little lower than the upper one4 ,begin the second fin on the twenty-sixth row4 #cbnd4--#ac os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ag dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b2 finish with open squares in white4 #ccrd4--#ac os4 w41 #b ch4 w41 #d dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ae dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b2 finish as before4 #cdth4--#ad os4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #ac dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b42 finish as before4 #ceth4--#ad os4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #aa dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b42 finish as before4 #cfth4--#ad os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #i dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b42 finish with white os4 #cgth4--#ae os4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #g dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b42 finish with white open squares4 #chth4--#ae os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #e dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b42 finish with white os4 #cith4--,the same4 #djth4--#ae os4 w41 #b ch4 w41 #c dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #b dc4 #b ch4 w42 open squares in white to the end4 #dast4--#af os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b41 #b ch42 open squares in white to the end4 #dbnd4--#ae os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #g dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b42 open squares in white to the end4 #dcrd4--#ae os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #i dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b42 finish with open squares to the end4 #ddth4--#ad open squares in white1 #b dc4 d4 b41 #d dc4 l4 b41 #d dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #b dc4 l4 b42 open squares in white at the end4 #deth4--#ad open squares in white1 #b dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #e dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b ch4 w421 #a dc4 l4 b41 #f dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #a ch42 and open squares to the end in white4 #dfth4--#ad os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #c dc4 l4 b41 #d dc4 w41 dc4 l4 b41 #a ch41 #a dc41 #b ch41 #a dc41 #a ch41 all in white1 #a dc4 l4 b41 #d dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #a ch4 and os4 in white4 #dgth4--#ad os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #c dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b ch41 #a dc44 #b ch41 #a dc44 #b ch41 all in white1 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b ch4 and open squares to the end in white4 #dhth4--#ad os4 w41 #a ch4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #a dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b ch41 #a dc4 #d times1 and #b ch41 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #b dc4 w41 #a dc4 l4 b41 #a ch41 and open squares to the end in white4 ,finish with eight rows of open squares in white cotton4 ,for the border1 for which the green cotton is to be used3 ,make a chain of #af1 turn1 miss #b1 #b sc41 #c dc41 #d tc41 #c dc41 #b sc41 #a ch41 turn2 work the same on the other side of the chain of #af1 and fasten off4 ,this completes one leaf2 let as many be done as may be required to go all round the ,d'oyley1 rather more than twice4 ,then1 with fine green cotton1 sew the points of some1 at regular intervals1 round the ,fish ,cloth4 ,make a chain all round1 connecting the base of the leaves at regular intervals4 ,on the chain1 work a row of sc41 connecting the ends of the remaining leaves for the outer row4 ,or the leaves might be made with a chain of #e between each2 the second row of leaves being worked on the other side4 ,,crochet ,,insertion4 ,,worked ,,the ,,short ,,way4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #hj4 ,crochet hook1 ,no4 #bb4 ,make #cb chain4 #ast4--,miss #c1 #b dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 1 twice1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 #c times1 #b dc4 #bnd4--,turn the work2 and1 in this and the other alternate rows1 take up the side of the stitch nearest to you1 whilst in the intermediate you take up the side farthest from you4 #c ch41 twist them1 miss #a1 #b dc41 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 #e times1 #c dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #crd4--7,turn the work47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #b dc4 on dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #dth4--7,turn47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #b dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 twice1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #eth4--7,turn47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #b dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 1 #b ch4 miss #b1 #d dc41 twice1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #fth4--7,turn47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #b dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #d dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #gth4--7,turn47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #b dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 #f times1 #c dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #hth4--7,turn47 #c ch41 twist1 miss #a1 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc41 twice1 #c dc41 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 #d times1 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 ,repeat until sufficient is done for the purpose required4 ,it may be necessary to explain the meaning of the word twist4 ,in working a crochet pattern backwards and forwards1 or in carrying the thread from one round to another1 without joining1 in a round crochet pattern1 the neatest way is to make three chain1 and then twist them1 letting the loop drop off the needle for the purpose and resuming it2 this looks quite sufficiently like a dc4 stitch for all ordinary purposes4 ,,netted ,,scarf4 ,,materials4--#f oz4 light blue filoselle1 #a oz4 each of white and of claret ditto4 ,when winding the skeins1 split them in half and the threads will then be quite sufficiently thick4 ,begin with the border4 ,take a round mesh1 ,no4 #d1 the size of a common pen-holder1 make #a stitch4 #bnd4--,net #b in #a4 #crd and succeeding rows4--,add one stitch at the end of every row until you have thirty one stitches in the row1 when you will net two as one4 ,the next row1 you will increase one at the end2 the following one you will diminish until you have done fifty rows in this manner1 then decrease at the end of every row until one stitch only remains4 ,this being done in white filoselle1 may be darned in a handsome pattern with the claret4 ,a second piece must be done in the same way4 ,then two bands1 each half the width of this1 must be made in light blue1 to one side of which a handsome fringe must be sewed1 and to the other the white netting4 ,the body of the scarf must also be done in the blue filoselle4 ,any handsome scroll or pattern for square crochet1 which is not more than thirty squares wide1 may be used for darning the border of the scarf4 ,,night ,,cap ,,in ,,crochet4 ,illustration ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #ab2 crochet hook1 ,no4 #af2 eagle card-board gauge2 #ahd chain4 ,this pattern is worked principally in close and open squares4 #ast4--#d o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #d o41 #a dc4 #bnd4--#c o41 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #e o41 #e times1 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #c o41 #a dc4 #crd4--#e o41 #a c41 #i o41 #e times4 #a c41 #e o41 #a dc4 #dth4--#a slip1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #b o41 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #e o41 #e times1 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #b o41 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a slip4 #eth4--#a slip1 #c ch41 miss #b to #b o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #b o41 #c ch41 #a slip on the dc4 of last row4 #fth4--#a slip on the first dc4 of the last row1 #c ch41 miss #b1 open squares to the last2 then #c ch41 miss #b1 slip #a on the last dc4 #gth4--#a dc4 on the last of the #c ch4 of the preceding row1 #a dc4 on the dc4 of the last row1 #f o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #d times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #f o41 #b dc4 #hth4--#b dc41 #e o41 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #e times1 #e o4 #b dc4 #ith4--#b dc41 #g o41 #a c41 #i o41 #d times1 #a c41 #g o41 #b dc4 #ajth4--#b dc41 #e o41 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #e times1 #e o41 #b dc4 #aath4--#b dc41 #f o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #d times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #f o41 #b dc4 #abth4--dc42 open squares to the two last stitches1 #b dc4 #acth4--#b dc41 #a o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #a o41 #b dc4 #adth4--#a dc41 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #e o41 #e times1 #b c41 #a o41 #b c41 #a dc4 #aeth4--#b dc41 #b o41 #a c41 #i o41 #e times1 #a c4 #b o41 #b dc4 #afth--,like #adth4 #agth4--,like #acth4 #ahth4--,like #abth4 #aith4--#b dc41 #f o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e times1 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #f o41 #b dc4 #bjth4--,like #aith4 #bast4--,like #ith4 #bbnd4--,like #ajth4 #bcrd --,like #aath4 #bdth and #beth4--,like #abth4 #bfth4--,forms half the band at the back4 #b dc41 #e o41 7a7 turn2 #e ch41 miss #b1 #d o41 #b dc41 #d times between the crosses1 and then to 7a7 once14 ,slip down the upper side to the top of the last dc4 stitch1 in the twentieth row2 so the first row of the follow point is merely a continuation of the twenty-sixth row4 #ast4--,,triangular ,,point3 #b ch41 miss #b1 #h o41 #a dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #h o41 7taking care that the dc4 stitches come over those of the previous row71 #a dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #g o41 #a dc4 on dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #f o41 #a dc4 on dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #e o41 #a dc4 on dc41 turn1 #c dc41 miss #b1 #d o41 #a dc1 on dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #c o41 #a dc4 on dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #b o41 #a dc41 on dc41 turn1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a o41 #a dc4 on dc41 turn1 #e ch41 miss #c dc1 on dc42 slip stitch up the side of this point to the twenty-sixth row again1 which is thus entirely formed by the first rows of the points4 ,work five points and you will have stitches enough left for five open squares at the end1 which are to be worked to correspond with the other half of the band at the back of the neck4 ,sew the ends of the bands together1 leaving the ,vandyke loose4 ,work round the inside of the band and round the ,vandyke1 thus3-- #ast round4--#e ch41 miss #b1 #a sc4 #bnd4--#a sc4 under the chain1 #f ch42 repeat4 ,it will then be necessary to put a border to the cap itself2 and either any pretty one may be worked on that is already given in this work1 or1 if a narrow one be preferred1 the following may be adopted3-- #ast4-- #a dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 2 repeat all round except that at the corners you will work1 99 #a dc41 #b ch41 miss none1 99 three consecutive times4 #bnd4--#a sc41 #e ch41 miss #c all round4 #crd4-- #a sc41 #c dc41 #a sc41 under the loop made by one chain of five of the last round1 #c ch41 #a sc4 under the next loop of #e1 #c ch4 2 repeat4 ,plait a cord of narrow braid1 and make tassels of the same2 run them through the top of the band at the back1 when the ends are sewed together1 and through the point of each ,vandyke1 and draw it up when on the head4 ,,crochet ,,edging4 ,,worked ,,the ,,short ,,way4 ,,materials4--,cotton1 ,no4 #bj4 ,chain of #bj stitches2 form into a loop4 #ast4--#e ch41 miss #a1 #a dc41 #b ch41 #e times1 #a dc4 #bnd4--#i ch41 #a dc4 into loop1 #b ch41 #a dc4 in next1 three times1 #g ch41 #a dc4 in last4 #crd4--#e ch41 #a dc4 in large loop1 #a ch41 #a dc4 in same1 #f times1 #b ch41 #a dc4 in next loop1 #b ch41 #a dc4 in next4 ,turn the work1 and repeat the #bnd and #crd rows until sufficient is done4 ---------------------------------------- -------------------------------- ,,transcriber',s ,,notes ,page ,changed from ,changed to #cj #ajth4--,all ,white3 cast of #b1 k4 #ajth4--,all ,white3 cast off #b1 k4 #b1 p4 #i1 k4 #d4 #b1 p4 #i1 k4 #d4 #de come to the last #i tc4 stitches1 come to the last #i tc4 stitches1 when repeat backwards then repeat backwards #aath4-- #a tc41 on tc4 of last #aath4-- #a tc41 on tc4 of last #dh round1 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #abth4-- round1 #d ch4 2 repeat4 #abth4-- ,dc4 on #d ch4 of last round1 #a ,dc4 on #d ch4 of last round1 #a ch4 2 repeat4 ch4 2 repeat4 #hj bolland1 trimmed with worsted holland1 trimmed with worsted braid4 ,there are braid4 ,there are #hc #abth4-- #c tc4 under #f ch41 #c tc4 #abth4-- #c tc4 under #f ch41 #c tc4 under next #f ch41 #ab ch41 under next #f ch41 #ab ch41 #hc #d times1 4 ,then repeat from the #d times1 4 ,then repeat from the beginning4 beginning4 #hc #e ch4 of last row1 99 #d times1 4 #e ch4 of last row1 99 #d times1 4 ,repeat to the ,repeat to the #he miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch4 miss #b1 #a miss #b1 #g dc41 #b ch4 miss #b1 #a do4 dc4 #ie under next loop1 99 #f times1 #e under next loop1 99 #f times1 #e ch41 4 ,repeat ch41 4 ,repeat #ajf #eth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 #eth4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b twice1 k4 #b #ajg #aith4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 #aith4--,knit #b1 m4 #a1 k4 #b t41 twice1 k4 #b twice1 k4 #b #ajh next loop1 #e ch41 slip through next loop1 #e ch41 slip through sc4 stitch1 #c sc4 stitch1 #c #aath4--#ag os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #c #aath4--#ag os4 w41 #b dc4 d4 b41 #c #aaj dc4 #a l4 b #b1 #b dc4 w41 dc4 l4 dc4 l4 b #b1 dc4 w41 8 dc4 l4 b41 b41 #ag os4 w4 #ag os4 w4 #aaj b41 7to form the eye71 dc4 w41 #d b41 7to form the eye71 8 dc4 w41 dc4 l4 b41 #ag #d dc4 l4 b41 #ag #aaa l4 b41 #ae dc4 w41 #e do4 l4 b2 l4 b41 #ae dc4 w41 #e dc4 l4 b2 finish as before finish as before #aac twist them1 miss #a1 #b dc41 99 #b twist them1 miss #a1 #b dc41 99 #b ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 99 #aad ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 #f times1 #c ch41 miss #b1 #a dc4 #f times1 #c dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 dc41 #b ch41 miss #b1 #c dc4 #aae #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e times1 times1 #a c41 #a #a c41 #a #aaf #aith4--#b dc41 #f o41 #a c41 #a o41 #aith4--#b dc41 #f o41 #a c41 #a o41 #a c41 #g o41 #e #a c41 #g o41 #e #a4 ,silently corrected palpable typographical errors2 retained non-standard spellings and dialect4 #b4 ,reindexed footnotes using numbers4 #c4 ,enclosed italics font in underscores4