,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,to ,"m4 ,tw5ty ye>s--! be/ ( ?9e3 ,tw5ty ye>s--a q long "t2 ,tw5ty ye>s ( ?y devotion1 ,tw5ty ye>s ( my que] notion4 ,tw5ty ye>s ( expectation4 ,tw5ty ye>s ( tribulation2 ,tw5ty ye>s ( hope & fe>1 ,tw5ty ye>s ( we> & te>4 ,tw5ty ye>s ( great vexations1 ,tw5ty ye>s ( few vacations2 ,tw5ty ye>s ( sil5t pray+1 ,tw5ty ye>s ( hopes delay+4 ,tw5ty ye>s8 ne> twice t "t ,to tra9 eight *ildr5--a "w sublime4 ,! fir/--six ye>s old--%e has gone2 ,emma f\nd a heav5ly home4 ,all ! o!rs1 ,i mu/ %[1 ,put gramm> 9 ?is book4 ,y "k ,^u ! slighte/ call f me1 ,!y spell$ or wrote z x %\ld be4 ,q tru/y places !y n[ hold1 ,& all are wor? _! weight 9 gold4 ,tw5ty ye>s ?us we did sp5d1 ,until ?is book has come to end4 ,,g>m5t ,,cutt+ ,,9 ,,! ,,tw5tie? ,,c5tury4 ,,consi/+ ,,( ,a ,,s]ies ,,( ,,articles ,,on ,,g>m5t ,,cutt+ ,,& ,,mak+ ,,) ,,illu/rations ,,by ,,diagrams1 ,,%[+ ,,! ,,comm5c+ ,,po9t ,,at ,,! ,,c5t] ,,( ,a ,,circle ,,9 ,,g5]al1 ,,& ,,radiat+ ,,on ,,especial ,,angles ,,( #ace1 #abj1 #ij1 #fj1 #de1 #cj1 #bb1 #bj1 #ae1 #aj1 #g1 #e1 #b1 ,etc41 ,,b ,,m ,,especially ,,two ,,angles ,,( ,,fifte5 ,,degrees ,,ea*1 ,,jo9$ ,,at ,,_! ,,wide/ ,,end4 ,,all ,,rights ,,res]v$ ,,by ,g,,n!r ,f4 ,,h]tz]1 ,,au?or1 ,,tiff91 ,,ohio4 ,,copyright$ #ahib4 ,,! ,b4 ,f4 ,,wade ,,co41 ,,pr9t]s1 ,,tol$o4 ,illu/ration ,,preface4 ,no?+ is claim$ 9 ?is book p]ta9+ to ,/yles ( ,fa%ions4 ,x is true ! fa%ionable p>ts ( all ! diagrams are tak5 f ! late/ ,fa%ion ,reports2 b ^! w n la/1 & consequ5tly ! fa%ionable "p is ( little value4 ,:at ,i claim ( my own "w is ! ,,bases1 :i* mu/ be consid]$ p]man5t1 & f :i* all *anges mu/ be made = diff]5t /yles1 or = abnormal =ms4 ,! pr9ciple laid d[n 9 ?is "w1 is3 ,to fit ! =m ( m51 mak+ ! *ange ( fa%ions to con=m to ! fit4 ,! ,bases ,i h adopt$ are new1 9 ! sci5ce ( ,,g>m5t-,,cutt+1 & all calculations are bas$ ^u horizontal1 p]p5dicul> & p>allel measures & l9es4 ,! slope ( ea* %\ld]1 z #bb deg41 is tak5 z a ,base = a g>m5t worn ar\nd ! neck & %\ld]s1 & ! g>m5ts built d[nw>d f t ,base4 ,all ,bases are cle>ly def9$ by illu/rations & description2 & all gores cut out1 or w$ges put 91 ei!r natural or artificial1 are m9utely describ$ accord+ to ! spreads or holl[s ( ! body4 ,! illu/rations or diagrams are giv5 bo? f a corn] ( a squ>e1 & f ! c5t] ( a circle1 ) ! same result4 ,i "k t1 aft] ! publication ( ?is "w1 "s m5 w hew (f "s r\gh corn]s1 & give x m poli%2 b ?is is ! case ) all inv5tions & new ?+s1 & ,i d n expect to be exempt f t rule4 ,9 fact1 ,i "k t ?is "w is incomplete2 b ,i c leave x to future "t1 ei!r ?r\gh myself or o!rs1 to take up ! ?read :]e ,i leave x at pres5t1 to unravel any my/]ies t may yet be hidd54 ,b ! ,bases & _! application w rema91 & w be s us$ 9 ! tw5tie? c5tury & !reaft]1 z long z clo?+ is worn & m5 reta9 _! pres5t g5]al =m4 ,"s w no d\bt say t c]ta9 ( my me?ods co/ extra /udy1 all ( :i* ,i admit2 b cutt+ & mak+ g>m5ts h be51 are n[1 & always w be1 a /udy2 & s f>1 no man's life has be5 long en\gh1 & likely no man's life h]eaft] w be long en\gh1 to complete x4 ,?is "w indicates ! "r direction = /udy1 & does n all[ ! cutt]'s nor ! tailor's bra9 to become dormant4 ,my exp]i5ce is ?is3 ,bett] /udy "o extra h\r ov] a g>m5t ?an sp5d a :ole day 9 alt]+ x4 ,! ,m]*ant ,tailor's success dep5ds ^u "o ?+ only1 viz43 ,h[ he succe$s 9 pleas+ 8 cu/om]s4 ,"s cutt]s w ask = some?+ def9ite 9 ! %ape ( a new sy/em2 some?+ t requires no /udy nor con/ant wat*+4 ,to su* let me say ?is3 ,:5ev] an infallible sy/em ( g>m5t-cutt+ is to be inv5t$1 x mu/ be some?+ l a ma*9e1 :i* always does ! same ?+ ) ! same result4 ,su* an inv5tion _c be acceptable s long z ! fa%ions & ! /yles are con/antly *ang+4 ,if1 h[ev]1 su* a ma*9e c\ld become acceptable1 ! occupation ( ,cu/om ,cutt]s w\ld be 8=ev] lo/40 ,no?+ ( ?is k9d is claim$ 9 ?is "w1 b ?is ,i d claim3 t x is bett] & m practical1 & f> m compreh5sive1 ?an any?+ h]et(ore kn[n4 ,nei!r d ,i claim t x w "w equally well 9 ! h&s ( e cutt]1 because no ma*9e w "w well unless direct$ & sup]vis$ by a skillful op]ator--"o :o kn[s e detail ( its con/ruction1 & att5ds to x c>efully4 ,i call ?is "w a sci5tific calculation )9 bo? ! squ>e & compass4 ,b ,i d n claim any k ( sci5ce1 nor ev5 ( geometry1 except p]haps :at may be call$ 8home-made40 ,:at little ,i "k ab\t geometry1 ,i le>n$ aft] ,i became =ty-five ye>s ( age1 & _h begun to jot d[n my exp]i5ce4 ,nei!r d ,i claim to be a ,fancy ,cutt]2 ,i d n ev5 claim to be a ,fancy ,tailor2 nor d ,i believe t ,i ev] 0 cut out to be a tailor4 ,b someh[ ,i />t$ to le>n ! trade1 & :5 ,i 0 once at x1 ,i made up my m9d to le>n x z well z anybody1 ev5 if x took me a few ye>s long] p]haps ?an "s o!rs4 ,yet all ( ?is is no reason :y ,i %\ld n be able to make a bett] survey ( ! human =m ?an any o!r man has done s f>2 & 9 fact anyone1 n a tailor1 c\ld h done s if 8 int]e/ _h be5 direct$ t way4 ,x is a fact t ! sew+ ma*9e 0 n inv5t$1 nor p]fect$1 by tailors4 ,x 0 accompli%$ by o!rs1 :o knew no?+ ( tailor+1 b !y le>n$ to make "o good /it* 9 a quick way1 & t 0 all4 ,i h be5 on ! b5* & cutt+-bo>d =ty-f\r ye>s1 & ,i d claim t ,i h obs]v$ & le>n$ some?+ 9 t "t :i* is wor? :ile to pres]ve1 & ,i h writt5 x 9 language s pla9 t all tailors may und]/&4 ,9 #ahgh ,i began to jot d[n my exp]i5ce1 illu/rat+ ev]y?+ by diagrams1 & h up to ?is "t writt5 & illu/rat$ ea* ye> two books l ?is1 all ( :i* ,i h 9 my possession & int5d to pres]ve4 ,i presume ,i c\ld write t5 ye>s long] )\t exhau/+ ! subject2 b ,i feel ! weight ( fifty-n9e ye>s ^u my %\ld]s & h come to ! conclusion t ,i mu/ cle> away all old rubbi% & publi% :at ,i "k is reliable4 ,?is volume is ! result4 ,= ! la/ t5 ye>s ,i h be5 c>ry+ on a ,m]*ant ,tailor+ bus9ess = ! purpose ( te/+ e g>m5t :i* ,i cut4 ,any new idea t came to my m9d ,i c>ri$ out by mak+ a g>m5t accord+ly2 & if ,i 0 wrong1 & made a misfit1 ,i made ! necess>y alt]ation4 ,i c\ld d ?is because ,i _h no 8boss0 to curse me--,i 0 my own 8boss0 & ,i paid = ! music4 ,! above rem>ks are made to %[ t ?is "w is n a mu%room idea1 b bas$ ^u ! exp]i5ce ( ne>ly half a c5tury4 ,= ! reason t ?is c5tury is ne>ly end$1 & t1 at be/1 ?is "w w n be g5]ally kn[n1 until ! next c5tury1 ,i h nam$ x ,,g>m5t ,,cutt+ ,,9 ,,! ,,tw5tie? ,,c5tury4 ,if any "o d\bts t ,i h be5 work+ = ye>s to prep>e ?is "w1 let him look up ! 8,am]ican ,tailor0 ( ,decemb]1 #ahhc1 & ,novemb]1 #ahhf1 or ! records ( ! ,pat5t ,(fice 9 ,wa%+ton = #ahgh4 ,i w "h say t ?is book has be5 writt5 betwe5 work+ h\rs1 or at odd h\rs1 or days :5 ,i _h ! "t to sp>e1 & t f "t to "t ! manuscript _h to be *ang$ z well z ! diagrams1 & !n revis$ aga94 ,?is has be5 ! case f #ahgh d[n to ! pres5t "t4 ,i d n wi% to convey ! idea to any "o1 t ! ,bases1 z laid d[n 9 ?is "w1 7 caught on to 9 "o great lump & t ?is "w is ! result ( ! grasp+ ( "o great idea4 ,:5 ab\t eighte5 ye>s ( age1 ,i came to ! conclusion t no sy/em ( g>m5t-cutt+1 !n exi/+1 _h an intelligible ,base to "w f1 & t all s-call$ ,bases 7 no?+ b imag9>y l9es1 to suit ?is or t cutt]'s fancy1 & ?is is ! case to-day4 ,t be+ my conclusion1 ,i tri$ to f9d some?+ on :i* ,i might h a bett] hold4 ,l ,columbus1 ,i _h an idea t !re 0 some?+ beyond1 b _h no conception ( its =m4 ,( geometry ,i knew no?+1 except1 t 8a squ>e is an angle ( n9ety degrees1 or ! f\r? "p ( a circle10 b ,i f\nd t ,i 0 helpless )\t geometry1 &1 at s late a day = me1 ,i _h to roll up my sleeves1 z x 71 & le>n at lea/ en\gh ( geometry z ?is "w requires4 7,:o w ?r[ ! fir/ /one at my ignorance87 ,aft] ,i 0 able to divide ! circle1 ! ,bases1 z laid d[n 9 ?is "w1 7 gradually adopt$1 "o by "o1 & s arrang$ t !y h>monize ) ! slopes ( ! body4 ,i h a hold n[1 & ,i c always tell :5ce ,i came1 & :i!r ,i am go+4 ,i h a />t+ po9t at ! c5t] ( a circle1 ,i c tell t ,i s9k my %\ld]s tw5ty-two & a half degrees2 t ! c5t] ( back & ! c5t] ( front re/ on "o angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees2 t ! front ( armhole is =ty-five degrees f ! front1 etc42 all ( :i* may be und]/ood by ! :ole civiliz$ _w4 ,& if "s cutt]s & tailors d n und]/& x1 !y c le>n x 9 a few h\rs1 & c le>n x z quickly z !y c any o!r rule4 ,x may be ask$1 c su* angles always be drawn correctly8 to :i* ,i w answ]3 ,no1 n always2 b x s]ves ! purpose4 ,our groc] nev] sells u an actual p\nd ( c(fee1 nor does our dry goods deal] sell u an actual y>d ( calico1 b :at !y sell u is z ne> z !y c come--x s]ves ! purpose1 & ev]ybody is satisfi$4 ,! v>iations ( ! l9es f ! c5t] ( a circle are n great] ?an are ! "r angles f a squ>e or f a /raight l9e4 ,i h be5 advis$ to write ?is book z ?\gh x 7 writt5 by a p]son resid+ 9 a l>ge city1 b ,i d n deceive any "o1 & admit t at ! pres5t "t 8,tiff90 has only ab\t twelve ?\s& inhabitants1 b t x is locat$ 9 ! big ,/ate ( ,ohio1 & t ,tiff9 has m natural 8gas0 ?an ,new ,york & ,*icago toge!r4 ,i d anticipate ! "q1 8,h[ mu* k may come f a small city l ,tiff980 b ,i console myself ) ! fact t a l "q1 8,:at good c come out ( ,naz>e?80 0 ask$ two ?\s& ye>s ago1 & x has be5 answ]$ 9 favor ( t little village1 & to-day ^! que/ion]s are reg>d$ z a set ( conceit$ asses4 ,advanc$ ideas d n necess>ily come f l>ge cities1 or come to a focus !re4 ,moses1 ! great law giv]1 caught 8 inspiration :ile among 8 flocks2 & s did ! poet1 ,k+ ,david4 ,/4 ,john1 ! ,bapti/1 & ,*ri/ himself took to solitude 9 ! wild]ness be=e ent]+ ^u _! mission4 ,/4 ,john1 ! evangeli/1 wrote 8 ,revelations on ! lonely isl& ( ,patmos4 ,dr4 ,lu!r =m$ 8 re=matory ideas )9 ! walls ( a cloi/]4 ,! great emancipator1 ,abraham ,l9coln1 no d\bt caught "s ( 8 ideas :ile work+ on a flat boat1 or :ile splitt+ rails4 ,9 ! face ( su* facts1 ,i d n see :y a common tailor1 liv+ & work+ 9 a small city1 _c h "s advanc$ ideas ab\t ,,g>m5t ,,cutt+1 ev5 if !y are writt5 d[n )\t a p]fect k ( ,engli% gramm>4 ,i 0 born 9 ! village ( ,ni$]will+51 9 ! ,pr9cipality ( ,s*w>tzburg1 ,sond]%aus51 ,g]many1 on ! #aj? day ( ,april1 ,a4 ,d4 #ahcc4 ,i receiv$ a good common s*ool education4 ,9 ! spr+ ( #ahdh1 :5 ! revolution>y cannons 7 %ak+ ,g]many = fre$om1 ,i 0 sold z a slave 7appr5tic$7 = ?ree ye>s to le>n ! tailor's trade1 & came to ,am]ica on ! #ag? day ( ,septemb]1 #aheb1 !n b n9ete5 & "o half ye>s old1 & h nev] _h any s*ool+ 9 ! ,engli% language1--b :at ,i "k ,i h pick$ up "h & !re1 9 ! tailor's %ops1 /ores1 lodges & *ur*es4 ,= ?is reason1 ?is book may conta9 words :i* might h be5 diff]5t1 b x is writt5 pla9ly1 & 9 su* t]ms t tailors & cutt]s w compreh5d4 ,dur+ ! ye> #ahia ,i h work$ mo/ly on ?is book1 comp>+ diagrams & writ+s1 & *ang+ any?+ t ,i ?\ght w\ld improve x4 ,b ,i f9d t if ,i keep on comp>+ & try+1 ,i %all nev] be done1 = ,i always f9d some?+ else to write4 ,a little ov] a ye> ago1 ,i ?\ght ,i w\ld g to "w & cut x %ort]1 ! manuscript !n hav+ ab\t fifty ?\s& words1 & n[ x conta9s ab\t "o hundr$ & tw5ty ?\s& words4 ,?is is ! way ,i h cut x %ort]4 ,b ,i d n see :at ,i c\ld /rike out aga91 ev5 if ,i %\ld make ! attempt4 ,g4 ,f4 ,,h]tz]4 ,,tiff91 ,,ohio1 ,,m>* #b;,d1 #ahib4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,scales ,,& ,,measures4 ,all dim5sions mean numb]s ( ! scale1 unless specially call$ in*es or ref]r+ to ! size4 ,all scales are "o-half brea/ or "o-half seat1 & two & "o-half in*es1 divid$ into tw5ty ev5 p>ts4 ,! two & "o-half in*es addition to ! "o-half brea/ or seat measure makes ! small sizes l>ge en\gh & ! l>ge sizes small en\gh = all purposes4 ,take ! brea/ measure ov] ! ve/ = bo? und]coat & ve/4 ,! circumf]5ce measure ( ! brea/ & seat mu/ be tak5 tightly ov] ! ve/ & pants4 ,! brea/ measure is to be tak5 ) ! tape t\*+ ! extreme po9t ( ! %\ld] blade1 ) ! lungs empty4 ,! seat measure mu/ be tak5 ov] ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat1 :i* is ab\t ?ree to ?ree & a qu>t] above ! =k or junction ( ! legs4 ,! half coat z well z ! half pants take up ab\t "o & a f\r? in*es = seams1 leav+ ab\t "o & a f\r? in*es slack = o!r purposes on ! half g>m5t4 ,?is measure is to be tak5 ) a small tape1 & all ! diagrams are calculat$ accord+ly4 ,9 tak+ a measure ar\nd ! human =m1 !re w be f\nd a diff]5ce ( f "o & "o-half to two in*es betwe5 a n>r[ tape & a /rip ( clo? t5 in*es wide4 ,! n>r[ tape cuts deep] into ! fle%1 & !re=e w record less surface measure ?an a /rip ( clo? t5 in*es wide4 ,if we take a n>r[ tape & a /rip ( goods1 say t5 in*es wide1 & ) bo? measure ov] ! seat or *e/1 draw+ "o z tightly z ! o!r1 we w f9d t ! broad /rip w record ab\t "o & a half in*es m on ! :ole circumf]5ce4 ,n[1 if ! broad measure gives ?ree-f\r?s ( an in* m ov] ! half brea/ ?an ! n>r[ tape1 !n x foll[s t1 aft] sew+ seams1 !re w be left half an in* on ! half frock coat only = expansion ( ! lungs & ! movem5ts ( ! arms4 ,! same is true ( ! pants1 & ?\gh !y require no?+ = expansion ( lungs or movem5t ( ! arms1 yet x requires a c]ta9 space = expansion :ile sitt+1 = x w be f\nd :ile a p]son is 9 t position 8 seat1 hips & wai/ w exp& any:]e f "o to five in*es1 b ! wai/ w exp& ! mo/4 ,! seat1 hips & wai/ require _! circumf]5ce measure :ile sitt+--no?+ m nor less--&1 consequ5tly1 seams mu/ be add$ to t measure1 & mu/ be appli$ at ! po9t :i* ,i h t]m$ 8! seat l9e10 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv41 & on ! back on ! upp] l9e4 ,if /it*es are drawn 91 on t l9e1 x w be f\nd t :5 ! pants are on ! body said l9e is a horizontal "o all ar\nd1 & at ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat4 ,a l>ge & fle%y p]son1 p>ticul>ly "o ) an extra l>ge abdom51 _c be fitt$ ) ! old maxim1 viz43 ,make ! half-wai/ "o-half ! measure & add ?ree-f\r?s ( an in*4 ,?is usually holds good z to p]sons ) small wai/s1 :o d n spread mu* 9 sitt+1 b :5 a l>ge-wai/$ p]son1 :o p]haps weighs #bej to #cjj p\nds1 assumes su* a position1 8 legs w press 8 /oma* upw>d1 decreas+ x 9 l5g? & exp&+ x 9 circumf]5ce4 ,!re may be p]sons ) sole-lea!r /oma*s :o c /& any pressure = a %ort "t1 or :ile tak+ a meal1 b :5 compell$ to sit mo/ ( ! "t1 !y want _! pants l>ge en\gh to be com=table :ile 9 t position4 ,x is true1 su* pants mu/ hang loosely :ile /&+1 & mu/ be support$ by susp5d]s1 b ?is difficulty _c be ov]come4 ,?is "w takes ! seat measure z a guide to select a scale1 no matt] if ! hips are l>g] or small] ?an ! seat2 nor if ! wai/ & hips are l>g] ?an ! seat1 prop] all[ance mu/ be made !re4 ,& x %\ld be obs]v$ "h t :5ev] ! hip measure is l>g] ?an ! seat measure1 x may be conclud$ at once t said l>ge hip measure is caus$ by ! unusually l>ge abdom5 directly 9 front4 ,9 reg>d to ! tak+ ( measures close or tight1 ! foll[+ mu/ be obs]v$3 ,a p]son may be measur$ ov] ! brea/ v close1 l a /ove pipe1 & w n object to t pressure1 = x la/s only a %ort "t2 b subject him to t pressure = five m9utes & he w n endure x4 ,he _c endure x1 & ! pressure w\ld be /ill m intol]able if ! tape %\ld be t5 in*es wide4 ,x is v important = ! cutt] to "k :at he is measur+1 & ) :at he is measur+4 ,old & exp]i5c$ cutt]s h le>n$ ?is at mu* co/1 !re=e "y cutt]s %\ld be told ?is 9 ! beg9n+4 ,"y cutt]s %\ld be in/ruct$ to always reque/ _! cu/om]s to remove _! coats at ! "t ( measur+1 & take ! brea/ & wai/ measure f beh9d1 because ! bread? ( ! two w n always agree4 ,to obta9 satisfactory l5g? ( sleeve is (t5 a difficult job4 ,!re is ! /yle1 !n ! notion ( ! cutt]1 !n ! notion ( ! cu/om]1 & la/ly ! notions ( ! wife1 "m & aunt--all ( :i* frequ5tly h a ^w to say 9 ! end4 ,!re=e ! be/ ( cutt]s are (t5 oblig$ to alt] ! sleeve l5g?4 ,! "y cutt] %\ld locate = himself a p]man5t m>k at ! wri/1 s t he is able to take su* measure always ! same1 & :5ev] he f9ds t 8 sleeves become too long or too %ort1 he c readily make ! necess>y *ange 9 measur+4 ,b to obta9 a ?or\ghly satisfactory sleeve l5g?1 ! cutt] mu/ "k at :at po9t to transf] ! measure to ! clo?4 ,diff]5t sy/ems produce diff]5t sleeves1 & ! seams are locat$ diff]5tly4 ,! sleeve1 z giv5 9 ?is "w1 has its c5tre at eight on ! back1 & !re ! sleeve l5g? mu/ be transf]r$1 no matt] :]e ! seam is locat$2 = if ! back sleeve seam is fur!r d[n1 & ! sleeve l5g? is transf]r$ at ! seam1 !n ! sleeve w become too long1 & vice v]sa4 ,! angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees1 cut f a piece ( pa/ebo>d or t91 & z l>ge z bo? %\ld]s1 is a v important measure1 & %\ld be appli$ z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i4 ,i d n claim t ?is measure c always be tak5 exact ev5 ov] a good-fitt+ coat1 b x c be tak5 ) z mu* c]ta9ty z ! brea/ measure1 & x s]ves ! purpose4 ,to measure ! slope ( ! %\ld]s1 ! angle mu/ be adju/$ at ! highe/ po9ts ( bo? arms at ! side ( ! %\ld]s1 & if ! sides ( ! neck ext5d up high]1 or l[]1 t am\nt is to be not$ d[n1 & x w be f\nd t only extreme cases require alt]ations4 ,extreme cases1 & ,i %\ld call all su* 9 :i* ! diff]5ce is ?ree-qu>t]s high]1 z on l[ %\ld]s1 or t mu* l[]1 z on high or squ>e %\ld]s4 ,no att5tion is to be paid to ! v>iation1 if x is only "o-qu>t] in* m or less1 z 9 fact ! sides ( ! %\ld]s1 at ! arms1 are n to be fitt$ z close z ! body itself indicates4 ,x may n be out ( place to m5tion "h h[ to draw t angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees1 = x is a new measure & an unkn[n quantity to ! great majority ( cutt]s at pres5t3 ,=m a "r angle2 f its po9t draw a circle z l>ge z y c1 & =m two po9ts1 z %[n 9 ,dias4 ,,xi & ,,xii2 draw a l9e f ! />t+ po9t to ! second po9t ( ! circle1 :i* w make "o angle ( "o hundr$ & tw5ty degrees1 to :i* is add$ fifte5 degrees 9 front1 to make ! angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees4 ,! fifte5 degrees are two l9es spread "o-qu>t] ( _! l5g?1 z a "p ( a circle tw5ty in*es long & five in*es wide4 ,! angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees is also "o squ>e1 & "o-half squ>e1 & may be f\nd z foll[s3 ,f ! c5t] ( back & ?r\gh ! />t+ po9t draw a "r angle1 z %[n by ! front sleeve bases 9 all ! diagrams1 & on t l9e1 g d[n1 & squ>e across & =w>d at equal di/ances1 say tw5ty in*es1 & ?r\gh t po9t draw ! front l9e ( ! angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees4 ,=m+ a "r angle1 & m>k+ ea* l9e at equal di/ances1 & draw+ a l9e ?r\gh said equally di/ant po9ts1 is equal to cutt+ a squ>e 9 two f po9t to po9t1 & consequ5tly1 said po9ts w =m an angle ( =ty-five degrees4 ,! squ>e conta9s n9ety degrees1 & ! half squ>e conta9s =ty-five degrees1 & ! :ole ( x is "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees4 7,see ,dia4 ,,ii-,a47 ,9 all cases :]e an angle is to be f\nd1 ! dim5sions %\ld be tak5 on a l>ge scale1 because on a l>ge scale ! v>iations are less ?an on a small scale4 ,! =m ( ,dia4 ,i is correct1 & may be us$ z an in/rum5t to measure all %\ld]s1 & ! edges ( ! angle %\ld n be less ?an eight in*es & may be drawn out m4 ,x %\ld be l>ge en\gh to rea* ov] bo? %\ld]s ( a full gr[n p]son4 ,! application & ! use ( said angle ( "o hundr$ & ?irty-five degrees is fully describ$ else:]e4 ,h[ to make a scale3 ,take "o half brea/ measure & two & "o-half in*es1 9 all cases1 & divide ! result into tw5ty equal p>ts4 ,! common in* w produce a brea/ size ( ?irty-five1 & ! same = ! seat size4 ,sev5te5 & a half in*es is "o-half ( ?irty-five1 & ! two & "o-half in*es make ! tw5ty units = size ?irty-five4 ,to make ! l>g] or small] scales3 ,take ! half-brea/ & two & "o-half in*es2 m>k ! half1 ! qu>t]1 & ! ?ree-qu>t]s ( x1 & divide ea* qu>t] into five equal p>ts ) a compass1 & !n divide ea* unit into halves1 qu>t]s & eigh?s4 ,a cutt] %\ld always "k j :at 8 scale conta9s1 & %\ld 9 all cases be able to make 8 own scales4 ,! use ( fractional scales is n necess>y4 ,if ! measure indicates a some:at l>g] size1 say ?irty-six & a half1 take a scale ( ?irty-six = a %ort p]son1 & d n cut away ! *alkm>ks 9 wid?4 ,if ! p]son is tall1 take a ?irty-sev5 scale & cut away all ! *alkm>ks 9 wid?4 ,ord9>ily1 make small *alkm>ks & cut !m ?r\gh 9 ! c5t]4 ,mat]ial :i* requires l>ge seams %\ld also be cut on ! outside ( ! *alkm>ks4 ,x is an easy matt] to cut a g>m5t "o-half size l>g] or small]1 )\t us+ fractional scales4 ,a set ( scales w accompany ea* copy ( ?is "w2 b any graduat$ set ( scales c be us$4 ,all we h to d is to select a scale :i* conta9s "o-half brea/ & two & a half in*es1 9 tw5ty units4 ,su* selection may result 9 a fractional scale by "s1 b x c be us$4 ,!re is no o!r sy/em 9 exi/5ce by :i* a =c+ scale c be us$1 & give satisfactory results4 7,see article on 8,sci5tific ,calculations407 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,pants4 ,scale3 ,"o-half seat measure & two & a half in*es1 divid$ into tw5ty p>ts4 ,=m an angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 & m>k x t5 numb]s wide1 at a l5g? ( eighty numb]s1 or "o-eigh? ( its entire l5g?4--,! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees has a wid? ( "o-eigh? ( its l5g?4 ,at ! top ( said angle1 or at ! wid? ( t5 numb]s1 />t ! top ( pants1 & g d[nw>d t5 numb]s = ! =k or crot*1 & cont9ue d[nw>d a di/ance ( ?irty-two numb]s f ! top2 aga9 m>k eight numb]s f ! top1 or two numb]s above ! crot*2 at ! po9ts eight & ?irty-two is an ev5 division = ! purpose ( divid+ ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees into ?ree equal p>ts1 or two & a half degrees ea*2 at eight g sidewise ?ree1 six & n9e1 & =w>d ?ree2 at ?irty-two g sidewise two1 f\r & six1 & =w>d two2 /rike l9es ?r\gh two & ?ree1 f\r & six1 & six & n9e sidewise1 & ?r\gh two & ?ree =w>d4 ,ea* l9e w repres5t an angle ( two & a half degrees4 ,except = equal divisions1 po9ts eight & ?irty-two h no?+ ( importance ab\t !m1 nei!r has ! l9e ?r\gh f\r & six1 :i* is also only an ev5 division ( ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees 9 ?ree equal p>ts2 b x w be se5 t ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees spreads "o-eigh? ( its l5g?2 consequ5tly x contracts "o in* 9 eight1 & f\r in*es 9 ?irty-two2 h5ce ! wid? ( ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees is six in*es at a l5g? ( ?irty-two :5ev] x is t5 in*es at ! />t+ po9t4 ,! front l9e ( ! angle ( sev5 & "o-half degrees ,i use z a base to "w f1 b ei!r "o ( ! o!r l9es w\ld be j z suitable a base1 p>ticul>ly ! l9e f two & ?ree sidewise1 :i* is to be ! c5t] l9e ( ! pants leg1 & f :i* l9e a "r angle ea* way w be ne>] horizontal ?an any o!r "r angle1 :5 ! pants are on ! body4 ,consequ5tly x is a good l9e to squ>e f = bo? a level top & a level bottom2 b = reasons h]eaft] expla9$1 x is n a sure l9e to squ>e f to nick ! seams :5 ! =ep>ts are cut small] & ! backs wid]2 9 fact1 no squ>e l9e is sure = t purpose4 ,b a sweep f ! po9t ( ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees w make true connections at any po9t1 no matt] h[ n>r[ ! front or h[ wide ! back may be1 or if bo? be ev54 ,aft] hav+ =m$ ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 & hav+ x divid$ into ?ree equal p>ts 7or 9 two & a half degrees ea*71 two & a half degrees1 or "o "p1 is plac$ 9 front ( ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees = ! crot* or =k4 ,! sev5 & a half degrees furni% ! outside ( ! pants leg--t is1 "o front1 "o side1 & "o back1 except a small fraction ( say ?ree-qu>t]s1 :i* is ?r[n =w>d on ! top ( ! front ( wai/1 & is fur!r expla9$ else:]e4 ,! top & ! front edge ( all pants is ab\t "o-eigh? ( ! :ole wai/ measure1 tak5 close4 ,b if ! "q %\ld be ask$ :y x is "o-eigh? ( ! close :ole wai/ measure1 ,i mu/ say t ,i c n give any o!r reason ?an t x has prov5 true 9 ye>s ( practice4 ,! angle ( two & a half degrees =ms ! crot*1 to :i* is add$ ab\t "o & a qu>t] = dress & extra /raddle--z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 ) a wid? ( "o-f\r? seat & "o & a f\r? in*es1 or t5 numb]s1 at ! top ( wai/1 w produce ?ree-f\r?s ( "o leg2 & ! angle ( two & a half degrees add$ to ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees w produce ! f\r? qu>t]1 or en\gh to cov] & to fit "o leg1 ! :ole be+ "o angle ( t5 degrees4 ,:atev] fa%ion1 or notion1 or a l>g] boot or %oe1 may require fur!r at ! bottom1 mu/ be all[$ equally on ea* side & inside2 & aga91 :atev] ! =ep>t may be decreas$1 mu/ be all[$ on ! back4 ,or1 9 o!r words1 ! seams are n plac$ 9 ! c5t] ( ei!r ! outside or ! inside1 b m to ! front4 ,! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees =ms ! top ( ! side on a /raight l9e1 & ! back has f "o to "o & a half in*es gore cut 9 its c5t]4 ,?is gore1 h[ev]1 may be bett] divid$ into two small ones--"o 9 ! middle ( ! back & ! o!r at ! side seam4 ,! back is slop$ (f fifte5 degrees f ! seat l9e upw>d1 z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,! wid? ( ! angle ( fifte5 degrees is "o-f\r? ( its l5g?1 & to draw x1 g up t5 numb]s & sidewise two & a half numb]s4 ,?ree & a f\r? numb]s above ! crot* is ! s-call$ seat l9e1 f :i* po9t ! top ( ! back is slop$ (f fifte5 degrees4 ,! seat l9e1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv1 is a horizontal l9e ov] ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat :5 ! pants are on ! body1 & !re ! seat measure mu/ be tak54 ,x mu/ be tak5 z tightly z y w\ld measure a /ove pipe1 or else ! pants w become too l>ge4 ,! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 ) its wid? ( t5 at ! top ( ! wai/ & ! back slope ( fifte5 degrees tak5 (f1 & ! back seam =m$ z %[n 9 ! diagrams1 w produce ! two seat l9es ab\t n9ete5 & "o-half numb]s = ! dress side1 ( :i* mu/ be us$ ab\t "o & "o-qu>t] in*es = all seams1 leav+ ?ree qu>t] in*es = extra wid? ov] ! seat = ! half pants1 :i* is en\gh4 ,else:]e x is expla9$ :y a n>r[ tape w record a %ort] measure ar\nd ! fle%y p>ts ( a p]son ?an a broad /rip ( clo?1 say t5 in*es wide4 ,x %\ld also be obs]v$ t a broad /rip ( mat]ial1 drawn ar\nd ! seat :ile /&+1 w record1 say ab\t "o & "o-half in*es m ?an a n>r[ tape half an in* wide1 bo? be+ drawn ) ! same /ra94 ,:5 a p]son is sitt+1 ! l5g? ( ! abdom5 contracts1 b increases 9 circumf]5ce1 & may exp& any:]e f "o in*1 9 a p]son ( light build1 to five in*es 9 "o t is q fle%y4 ,!re=e1 :ile 9 a sitt+ position is ! "t to make a correct circumf]5ce measure ov] ! seat z f> z su* a measure c be tak51 or z f> z a correct measure is actually necess>y = cutt+ a g>m5t4 ,?is measure1 if transf]r$ to ! seat l9e1 requires no all[ance except = seams4 ,:5 a p]son assumes a sitt+ position1 8 entire body is on a /ra94 ,! seat & abdom5 gr[s v rigid1 & 9 ?is condition a m correct measure may be tak5 ) a n>r[ tape4 ,if a pair ( pants %\ld be made up z l>ge z su* a measure1 x w be l>ge en\gh = a close fit1 provid+ all o!r p>ts are correct4 ,!re is no "q b t a trifle surplus clo? at ?is po9t1 all[$ at ! side1 w be q 9 its place1 & w nev] come amiss1 b in/ead contribute to ! com=t ( ! we>]4 ,by tak+ into consid]ation ! sitt+ or /&+ position ( ! body1 9 connection ) ! circumf]5ce measure ( ! seat1 x is absolutely necess>y t ! location ( ! seat l9e be positively kn[n :5 ! g>m5t is ap>t & spread ^u a flat table1 l a patt]n4 ,always be> 9 m9d t ! seat l9e 9 front w be ?ree & a f\r? numb]s above ! po9t ( ! crot* & ab\t two & a half numb]s high] on ! back1 or :atev] ! spread ( ! angle ( fifte5 degrees across ! back may be4 ,:5 ! pants are on ! body1 ?is extra l5g? 9 ! back ( ! pants w be tak5 up 9 w9d+ ar\nd ! seat1 & pu%+ backw>d & d[nw>d ) ! seat2 & :atev] t takes up mu/ be all[$ aga9 on top1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xix1 or mu/ be obta9$ f bel[1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv1 :i* %[s ! true l5g? z f> z necess>y4 ,b ano!r in* may be add$ to ! l5g? on ! top ( ! back1 9 ord] to make ! back t mu* high] ?an ! front :5 on ! body4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,xx1 ?is extra height ( ! back is f\r numb]s1 & is a p]man5t ?+1 ev5 if a l>g] wai/ requires ! front to be high]4 ,rais+ ! top ( ! front = a l>ge-wai/$ pants is caus$ by ! same pr9ciple z rais+ ! top ( ! back1 only less prom95t4 ,z ! seat requires extra l5g? beh9d1 s does a l>g] abdom5 directly 9 front require extra l5g?4 ,h5ce1 l>ge-wai/$ pants require "s extra wid? at ! top ( ! side 9 ord] to ?r[ ! =e-"p =w>d & d[nw>d1 =m+ a curve ov] ! front ( ! abdom52 &1 t l5g? be+ suppli$ f ! top ( ! front1 ! same mu/ be all[$ aga9 f :]e x 0 tak54 ,by extra wid? on ! top ( ! side1 ,i mean an extra wid? outside ( ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 :i* is to be ! portion ?r[n =w>d1 & ne$ n 9 any case be m ?an an in*4 ,! same am\nt is en\gh = ! extra l5g? on ! top ( ! front4 ,to regulate ! wai/ ( pants1 x is necess>y t ! wai/ mu/ be made z wide z ! measure indicates :5 ! p]son is sitt+1 & x may ev5 be wid] if a cu/om] s desires4 ,"s individuals are v s5sitive ar\nd ! wai/1 & = su* pants x w be bett] t !y be two in*es too l>ge !re1 ?an half an in* too small1 or ev5 a close fit4 ,9 no case %\ld an extra wai/ proportion be all[$ beh9d1 unless x is to be buckl$ up or to hang loose2 = if x is to be us$ to supply ! wai/ proportion 9 front1 x mu/ necess>ily be drawn =w>d1 consequ5tly w wr9kle ! :ole pants1 & may produce tightness 9 ! crot*4 ,surplus wai/ may be all[$ beh9d1 z long z x rema9s "u ! buckle /rap1 & su* surplus w buckle up /raight4 ,b if surplus clo? is all[$ 9 front or at ! side1 & is drawn backw>d "u ! buckle /rap1 x w draw wr9kles across ! seat4 ,pants too loose at ! front or at ! side may be all "r z long z ! we>] w c>ry !m on 8 susp5d]s4 ,! angle ( sev5 & "o-half degrees1 ) ! back slop$ (f fifte5 degrees1 & ?ree-qu>t]s all[$ 9 front1 mu/ be consid]$ a p]man5t ?+1 & )9 t space & along & ar\nd ! holl[ ( ! back ( ! wai/1 all surplus mu/ be cut away 9 "o or two gores1 accord+ to ! measure tak5 9 a sitt+ position4 ,surplus wai/ proportion is be/ all[$ by a spr+ )9 ! back gore1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xxi1 :i* w rema9 :]e x is cut & c n be drawn backw>d "u ! buckle /rap4 ,pants c usually be worn pretty close at ! s(t1 or holl[ "p ( ! wai/1 b !y mu/ be pl5ty l>ge z soon z !y come 9 contact ) ! %ort ribs1 & su* wid? mu/ be at ! sides1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xxi4 ,n[1 if ! wai/ requires m1 t am\nt mu/ be divid$ into ?ree equal p>ts1 "o "p be+ add$ to ! front & two p>ts to ! side2 s t :5 ! pants are on ! body1 ! :ole w be equally divid$1--"o "p 9 front1 "o "p on ! left side1 & "o "p on ! "r4 ,! wai/1 :5 x gr[s l>ge1 exp&s =w>d & sidewise1 & extra wai/ proportion mu/ be suppli$ accord+ly4 ,! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( t5 degrees %\ld be p]haps m fully expla9$4 ,said c5t] l9e runs on & along ! :ole c5t] ( ! leg :5 ! g>m5t is ^u ! body1 unless1 by "s miscalculation x is drawn out ( %ape4 ,f ?is l9e all bottoms & tops ( ! =e-"p may be squ>$1 & f x ! top & front ( ! =e-"p is "o-eigh? wai/1 actual measure4 ,x =ms ! crease l9e1 & f x ! bottom is made an equal di/ance on ea* side4 ,! knee also is =m$ f x z a c5t]4 ,b z ! inside ( ! leg is a /raight l9e & ! outside ( ! leg is holl[ at ! knee1 x foll[s t1 = a close-fitt+ pants leg at ! knee1 ! outside fir/ requires a r$uction ( say ?ree-eigh?s to "o-half an in*1 on d\ble clo?1 :i* aga9 is all[$ at ! inside1 aft] :i* ! wid? may be r$uc$ equally on ea* side1 if su* r$uction is necess>y4 ,! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees runs 9 slope ) ! leg1 ?\gh on a p]fectly /raight l9e1 & if ! pants leg is to be %ap$ 9 accordance ) ! %ape ( ! leg1 z x mu/ be if a close fit is desir$1 !n :]ev] ! leg has a holl[ ! g>m5t mu/ be r$uc$1 & :]ev] ! leg has a swell ! pants also mu/ be enl>g$4 ,?is is ! case ) all legs4 ,! side ( ! knee %\ld be holl[$ out1 :ile at ! calf ! side seam mu/ run outw>d4 ,if ! p]son be 8b[-legg$10 !n ! outside mu/ receive m clo? & ! inside less1 if ! =m ( ! leg is to be foll[$2 b1 z a g5]al ?+1 b[ legs 9 pants %\ld be s =m$ t ! inside is pretty full1 9 ord] to hide su* a de=mity4 ,s-call$ 8knock knees0 require m clo? on ! inside ( ! knee1 & !re=e m mu/ be tak5 f ! outside4 ,knock knees are n s mu* a de=mity z b[ legs1 & su* pants legs may be cut & made accord+ to ! %ape ( ! leg4 ,!re is "o m b5d 9 ! leg :i* requires m5tion+ "h1 & t is ! knee itself4 ,a close-fitt+ pants mu/ h ! %ape ( ! side ( ! leg & ! %ape ( ! knee 9 front z well4 ,if ! pants leg is n cut or work$ accord+ to ! knee1 ! knee itself w "w x out by /ret*+ ! front or wr9kl+ ! back4 ,by full+ ! =e "p "o-f\r? to ?ree-eigh?s ( an in* ov] ! knee1 & 8full+0 ! same on bo? seams1 ! :ole difficulty w be ov]come4 ,or1 :at is /ill bett]1 /ret* ! back t mu*4 ,if ?is is to be done correctly1 x mu/ n be left to ! sweet w ( ! pants mak]s to /ret* or %r9k z mu* z !y please or :]e !y please1 b ev]y?+ mu/ be di/9ctly not*$1 say five in*es above & five in*es bel[ ! knee4 ,?is is also true :5 y cut spr+ bottoms4 ,spr+ bottoms h come & gone regul>ly = ! pa/ =ty ye>s1 & !y w soon come aga91 & :5 !y come aga9 "s cutt] or tailor w be glad to "k some?+ ab\t !m4 ,:5 spr+ bottoms 7 fir/ introduc$ !y 7 made ) a piece or w$ge set 9 ! c5t] ( ! =e "p1 on ! same pr9ciple z legg+s are made to-day1 b x 0 soon discov]$ t by all[+ t w$ge on ea* side ( ! back1 & by /ret*+ ! sides ( ea* =e "p t[>d its c5t]1 ! side ( ! =e "p w\ld spr+ =w>d1 & ! w$ge add$ at ! side ( ! back fill$ ! vacancy at ! /ret*$ side4 ,if !re c\ld be a seam 9 ! c5t] ( ! =e "p we w\ld simply add say "o-half to ?ree-f\r?s m on ea* seam 9 front1 & ! spr+ w\ld be !re2 or if we c\ld cut our =e "p to a po9t at ! bottom1 leav+ ! :ole wid? at ! back1 ! spr+ w\ld also be !re1 & all )\t /ret*+ or %r9k+ any?+1 because ! spr+ w\ld be cut :]e x belongs4 ,b /yle & economy ( mat]ial require all seams to be at ! side1 & = ! reason t ! spr+ mu/ be work$ t[>d ! c5t] ( ! front1 all su* =e p>ts mu/ be z n>r[ z possible1 because a n>r[ =e "p ( six in*es w /ret* m easily ?an a =e "p ( eight in*es4 ,n[1 9 spr++ ! bottom & =c+ bo? seams ( ! =e "p =w>d z a spr+1 all mu/ be done by /ret*+ ! sides ( ! =e "p be=e ! seams are sew$1 & 9 su* mann] t ! =e p>ts w fit into ! spr+ on ! back4 ,x w be ( no practical use to d ! /ret*+ at ! sides b a "p ( ! way1 & attempt+ to =ce ! spr+ =w>d by %r9k+ ! c5t] ( ! front1 z all su* %r9k+ w return4 ,nor w x d any good to hold ! back full on ! =e "p1 & sew ! seams1 & !n attempt to /ret* ! =e "p2 =1 ev5 if ! /ret*+ c\ld be accompli%$ 9 ?is way1 ! sew$-up seam w\ld soon draw back1 because a sew$ seam1 & p>ticul>ly a ma*9e-sew$ seam1 c be /ret*$ b v little1 & if x does /ret* w soon return to its =m] condition4 ,! /ret*+ ( ! side ( ! =e-"p mu/ also be alike on bo? sides1 z well z alike on bo? legs1 or else ! spr+s w n run 9 ! same direction2 or !y may n spr+ to ! c5t] ( ! foot1 b to "o or ! o!r side4 ,! /ret*+ mu/ also be done z f> d[n z possible1 & mu/ nev] be />t$ high] ?an ab\t five in*es above ! bottoms1 all ( :i* mu/ be indicat$ by correct nicks 9 ! front & back4 ,all nicks1 & p>ticul>ly on pants1 %\ld be cut small & di/9ct4 ,x w\ld be be/ to make j a small1 /raight cut2 & ! mak] %\ld be requir$ to put !m toge!r ) ! utmo/ precision1 & n "o side a qu>t] ( an in* up & ! o!r a qu>t] ( an in* d[n4 ,:y ,i claim t ! nick+ & putt+ toge!r are v p>ticul> features reg>d+ pants1 = ?is reason3 ,all p>ts ( pants are v long1 & :ile a small twi/1 say 9 ! sleeve ( a coat1 may n %[ mu*1 ! same twi/ w %[ pla9ly 9 a pants t is ?ree times z long4 ,9 ord] to convey a correct idea ( :at ,i mean by ! t]m 8twi/10 take a pants patt]n & p9 x toge!r at ea* side ( ! bottom1 !n ?r[ x out ( ge>1 say "o-f\r? ( an in* at ! hips1 & see :at twi/ w be at ! :ole l5g?4 ,n[1 ! =ego+ po9ts are figur$ d[n pretty close1 b figur+ on pap] & practic+ on g>m5ts are two diff]5t ?+s4 ,f9e g>m5t-cutt+ & mak+ are some?+ m ?an c be le>n$ f a multiplication table4 ,x requires a practical k ( :at a cu/om] really requires1 & :at he ought to h2 x also requires practical k ( ! proportions ( ! diff]5t p>ts ( a g>m5t4 ,x is1 = in/ance1 ( little importance if a pants leg is half an in* l>g] or small]1 s long z ! g>m5t hangs nicely :5 on ! body1 & ! bottom corresponds ) ! knee & ?igh1 & s on--all ( :i* is some?+ t _c be le>n$ f ! books4 ,if a cutt] is :at may be t]m$ a 8natural-born0 cutt]1 all su* ?+s w come to him2 b if he is n s gift$1 !n he mu/ tra9 himself to x1 & 9 no o!r way w he succe$ z a cutt]4 ,on top ( front1 ! pants diagrams are ?r[n =w>d f five-eigh?s to two numb]s4 ,p]sons :o /& v erect1 & h small wai/s1 h en\gh if "o-half is ?r[n out4 ,l>ge wai/$ p]sons /& naturally v erect1 & a =m ( =ty-f\r seat1 & =ty-six wai/1 made up1 c be fitt$ ) "o & "o-half1 :ile two numb]s1 l ,dia4 ,,xx1 is en\gh = =ty-six seat & fifty wai/1 made up4 ,=ty seat1 =ty hip & =ty wai/1 made up1 c be fitt$ ) "o & "o-f\r?1 & ! same is true ( ?irty-sev5 seat & ?irty-sev5 wai/1 made up1 all su* wai/s to h ! angle ( sev5 & "o-half degrees complete at ! side1 or ev5 "o in* all[ance1 z p] ,dia4 ,,xx4 ,! gore 9 ! back is to be "o in* at ! top ( =e-"p & runn+ out to no?+ at ! top ( back1 & :i* may be call$ extra loos5ess1 b :i* c n be drawn backw>d "u ! buckle /rap1 b w rema9 at ! side & prev5t ! wai/b& f /rik+ ! %ort ribs4 ,outlets on ! wai/ ( a pants w\ld d m good if left on ! top ( side1 runn+ out to no?+ at ab\t l9e sixte51 b ! outlet1 if left on !re1 requires too mu* "w to let out1 & ! outlet is usually left on beh9d4 ,:5 su* a crot* mu/ be let out1 ! back crot* seam f l9e sixte5 upw>d1 %\ld be /ret*$ upw>d say "o-qu>t] to "o-half in*1 & ! :ole back seam1 above ! crot* %\ld be /ret*$1 z mu* z possible1 & t may easily be /ret*$ "o full in*1 & ! /ret*+ %\ld be done mo/ly at1 or ne>1 ! seat l9e1 & z f> sidewise z possible1 & if ! seat is l9$ & ! l9+ is /raight1 & w n /ret*1 a w$ge mu/ be put 9 ! l9+1 z %[n on ! outside ( ,dia4 ,,xviii4 ,! outside c almo/ always be /ret*$ any am\nt desir$4 ,/ret*+ ! back ?us1 ! outlet1 left beh9d1 w fall sidewise1 :]e x really belongs1 b :5 said outlet is simply let out beh9d1 x w rema9 beh9d1 & mu/ be pull$ =w>d1 & ev5 if ! pants feel wide en\gh at ! wai/1 ! we>] may n feel at home 9 !m :5 sitt+ d[n4 ,on ! o!r h&1 :5 pants h too mu* seat1 b n too mu* wai/1 ! be/ way is to rip up ! side seam1 f l9e sixte5 upw>d1 & /ret* ! side ( ! back1 say "o in*1 & cut x (f on top1 all ( :i* makes ! seat %ort] beh9d4 ,/ret*+ ! side ( ! back upw>d f ! side ( ! crot* is equal to cutt+ a l>g] gore betwe5 ! front & back on top ( side1 & all[+ x beh9d4 ,if ! pants are l9$ 9 ! seat1 or all ! way d[n1 a l>ge fold %\ld be laid 9 ! back l9+ 9 place ( cutt+ x 9 z "s d1 to imitate ! gore1 or z o!rs d1 :o ba/e ! l9+ flat ov] ! gore1 :]eby ! effect ( t gore is de/roy$4 ,9 %ort1 all l9+s 9 ! pants %\ld be put 9 pl5ty l>ge on bo? back & front1 bo? 9 wid? & 9 l5g?1 on ! same pr9ciple1 z ! l9+ 9 ! back ( coats is put 9 l>ge4 ,! l>g] x is1 ! bett] x w be4 ,! outside ( a pants mo/ly /ret*es1 b ! l9+ does n1 & (t5 %r9ks f ! moi/ure ( ! body4 ,if we %\ld cut two pairs ( pants ov] ! same patt]n1 & make "o up )1 & ! o!r )\t l9+1 we w\ld f9d t ! "o )\t l9+ feels ! l>g] :5 on ! body4 ,all pants l9+ %\ld be cut bias4 ,to %ape ! crot* seam ,dia4 ,,xiv %\ld be obs]v$1 especially :5 ! =e "p is to be cut l>g] & ! back t mu* small]1 :i* sometimes may be done to advantage1 & may enable ! cutt] to cut ! back )\t mu* piec+4 ,9 ! %ape ( ,dia4 ,,xiv ! seam may be ?r[n any:]e1 )\t los+ ! balance4 ,"s ye>s ago1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,b4 ,we/ br\ght out :at he t]m$ a new /yle ( pants1 by cutt+ ! front =k l>g] ?an ! back =k4 ,b t new /yle did n la/ long1 = ! reason1 ,i suppose1 t mo/ ( ! cutt]s did n get ! po9ts ( ! =ks correct4 ,!re is no "q b t x c be done satisfactorily4 ,! only objection ,i c\ld make is ?is3 ,:5 ! inseam is ?r[n too f> backw>d1 ! dress "p on t seam locates too f> backw>d1 :ile really ! dress requires to be locat$ z f> =w>d z possible1 & = ?is reason ,i h ! undress =k locat$1 ne> ! angle ( t5 degrees1 & x may be made j ev5 ) t angle1 & all o!r wid? all[$ on ! back4 ,if = any reason x is necess>y to cut a pants ) a v l>ge =k on ! front1 & a small =k on ! back1 ! patt]n %\ld be cut l ,dia4 ,,xi1 b ! =k %\ld be spread s t :ole c be cut )\t piec+2 :]eby ! crot* seam c be ?r[n any:]e1 by ! help ( ! sweep f po9t #hj1 )\t los+ ! balance4 ,if ! cutt] is able to cut t seam any:]e1 x may save him a great deal ( piec+ :]e su* piec+ is n desir$4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,angle ,,( ,,sev5 ,,& ,a ,,half ,,degrees ,,= ,,pants4 ,?is angle mu/ be fur!r expla9$4 ,al?\gh ,i am us+ ! angles two & a half1 t51 fifte5 & tw5ty degrees = cutt+ pants1 ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees is ! ma9 angle1 because x corresponds m ne>ly to ! slope ( ! legs1 at ! outside1 ?an an o!r angle1 & ! comb9$ outside slopes =m an angle ( fifte5 degrees4 ,i d n claim t ! out] sides ( a p]son's legs actually slope fifte5 degrees4 ,9 fact1 ,i "k !y d n1 b !y come ne> en\gh to t to be practical = g>m5t-cutt+4 ,x may be f\rte5 or sixte5 degrees1 & x may be ev5 m ?an t1 z on %ort & l>ge-wai/$ =ms1 or x may be less ?an t1 z on tall & slim p]sons1 b fifte5 degrees is ! six? "p ( a squ>e & is easily f\nd by spread+ two l9es "o-f\r? ( _! l5g?4 ,go+ up f a c]ta9 po9t "o y>d1 & across "o-f\r? y>d1 w make ! angle ( fifte5 degrees4 ,by plac+ a /raight edge on ea* side ( ! body1 on & along ! slant+ side ( ea* leg1 !y w\ld =m an angle ( fifte5 degrees4 ,^! slopes are c]ta9ly ! longe/ & /raighte/ l9es t c be drawn on ! human =m1 & !re is no reason to cont5d t !y are n good l9es to use z bases = cutt+ pants4 ,! longe/ & /raighte/ l9es are always ! be/ to be us$ z bases to "w f = almo/ any?+4 ,)9 ^! two l9es1 repres5t+ ! angle ( fifte5 degrees1 is conta9$ ! :ole pants1 provid+ ! prop] circumf]5ces are obta9$ to g ar\nd ! entire body4 ,wrapp+ a %eet ( pap] ar\nd ! body w give ! correct idea ( :at ,i mean4 ,!re is ! slope ( fifte5 degrees1 & !re is ! circumf]5ce ar\nd ! :ole body1 & repres5ts a cov] = bo? legs z ?\gh !y 7 "o4 ,pants are cut = "o side ( ! body1 b on d\ble clo?2 s we make our calculation = half ( ! body only4 ,if we %ape t %eet ( pap] accord+ to ! =m ( ! body1 x w repres5t a slope1 on ! sides1 ( fifte5 degrees1 :ile a /raight l9e 9 front & c5t] ( ! body w divide ! angle ( fifte5 degrees into two equal p>ts1 or sev5 & a half degrees1 on ea* side1 :i* sev5 & a half degrees are us$ z a base = ?is g>m5t1 repres5t+ a cov] ( ?ree-f\r?s ( "o leg1 viz43 "o front1 "o side & "o back4 ,! inside ( ! leg requires z its %>e "o-?ird ( ! :ole outside1 & z ! :ole outside is ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 x foll[s t "o-?ird equals two & a half degrees1 :i* latt]1 atta*$ to ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees1 =ms "o :ole angle ( t5 degrees4 ,?is angle ( t5 degrees1 ) its prop] wid?1 w cov] a b>e leg1 & if x does n exactly fit x1 x w at lea/ repres5t ! same slopes1 & by ^!1 r$uctions at ! knee & additions to ! bottom c be made4 ,= ! po9t ( ! d\ble dress =k "o & "o-eigh? to "o & "o-qu>t] is to be all[$1 outside ( ! angle ( t5 degrees1 & ?ree-eigh?s less = ! d\ble undress side1 & :atev] ! =ep>t is made small] is all[$ aga9 on ! back4 ,! po9ts ( ! =ks mu/ be s con/ruct$ t !y all re/ on ! same sweep1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv1 unless ! front & ! back are made extremely wide or n>r[1 9 :i* case ! po9ts c n re/ on ! sweep1 b mu/ be put z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv4 ,! all[ance ( "o & "o-eigh? to "o & "o-qu>t] = ! d\ble dress =k is simply an av]age quantity & "o is en\gh = a close fit1 :ile a v loose fit1 or op5 cut1 may h "o & ?ree-eigh?s all[$4 ,t "p ( ! pants c n be cut to fit close to ! body1 b mu/ always h "s loose clo? !re1 b x mu/ be cut s t x w hang /raight4 ,ye>s ( exp]i5ce h taught me t "o & "o-eigh? to "o & "o-qu>t] is a good av]age4 ,! same cause1 :i* requires ! front ( ! wai/ to be ?r[n =w>d ( ! base on #g deg41 requires ! addition to ! =k1 & to ! angle ( #aj deg41 & ! normal =m requires ab\t ! same am\nt at ! wai/ & at ! undress side4 ,if ! front base 7 mov$ =w>d to ! front ( wai/1 ! angle ( #aj deg4 w\ld also move =w>d to ! half undress =k4 ,! extra all[ance = ! dress =k mu/ be consid]$ indep5d5t ( ! body1 z x is a "o-sid$ affair4 ,= a close fitt+ leg ! angle ( #aj deg4 may h an all[ance ( d\ble at ! inside ( ! knee1 or ! =ep>t may be plac$ on ! base1 & all[$ on ! back1 & a l>g] leg may h any?+ m1 :i* a nice slope ( ! seams all[s1 b :i* 9 no case may be m ?an to on ! d\ble4 ,l>ge spr+ bottoms w h to be consid]$ z close fitt+ at ea* seam1 & ! spr+s ?r[n =w>d by /ret*+ ! side seams4 ,! side ( ! knee may be holl[$ out on ! d\ble1 & 9 ?is case may be consid]$ z t portion :i* is ?r[n outw>d on ! inside1 9 ord] to give ! pants leg ! natural slope ( ! body = bo? inside & outside4 ,= a l>ge leg ! side ( ! knee may h any?+ m :i* is consi/5t ) a nice slope ( ! side seam1 />t+ at ! seat l9e4 ,! above description ( a close fitt+ pants leg at ! knee w hold good on a few sizes only1 say f #ce to #cg4 ,l>g] sizes mu/ be r$uc$ m & require less ?an ! angle ( #g deg41 z se5 9 ,dia4 ,,xx1 & small] sizes mu/ h m wid?4 ,if a l>ge size is to be fitt$ ) a close-fitt+ leg at ! knee1 ! be/ way to obta9 ! correct po9ts is to take ! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 z a po9t to measure f1 & give ! d\ble inside m ?an ! d\ble outside1 :i* w be ! same z ! above calculation = a m$ium size4 ,z /at$ else:]e1 ! all[ance on top ( front ( ! wai/ to ! angle ( #g deg41 & to ! =k & to ! knee1 is caus$ by ! base be+ locat$ to ! side ( ! c5t] ( ! body4 ,9 a /&+ position ! base w\ld locate at ! suppos$ inside edge ( ! front ( ! leg1 b x mu/ be consid]$ t at ea* /ep ! c5t] ( ! :ole upp] body is ?r[n ^u ! c5t] ( ! /&+ leg1 & consequ5tly ! bases ( a pair ( pants *ange at ea* /ep1 & ! pants is requir$ to set reasonably well 9 all ! diff]5t positions 9 :i* ! leg may be ?r[n1 all ( :i* c only be accompli%$ by extra wid? 9 ! =k1 & :i* may be t]m$ ! balance ( a pants4 ,if said balance is n correct1 ! pants leg w make a k9k or ?r[ a fold some:]e upw>d to ! knee4 ,?is fault ( pants c be se5 9 ! muddy /reets ( a small t[n1 z well z on ! fa%ionable b\lev>ds 9 l>ge cities1 & are ev5 %[n on fa%ion plates4 ,su* may be 9 /yle by "s report]s ( fa%ions1 b ,i nev] did l !m1 & ,i d n suppose anyone else does1 b somebody mu/ cut & make !m z long z !y are s %[n on ! fa%ion plates4 ,?is "q w always h to be consid]$ by cutt]s1 & x _c be expla9$ too mu*4 ,c>eless nick+ ( ! seams1 or c>elessness 9 br++ ! nicks toge!r :5 ! legs are sew$ up1 w also cause a twi/ 9 ! legs1 "o way or ! o!r4 ,pants legs :i* draw f bottom ( inside1 up & =w>d1 to ! knee1 may be *ang$ ei!r by giv+ m wid? at ! inside ( ! bottom1 />t+ at ! =k1 or by r$uc+ wid? at ! top & front ( wai/1 & runn+ x out gradually bel[ ! knee4 ,if ! r$uction ( ! front ( ! wai/ makes ! wai/ too small1 all[ beh9d :at is tak5 (f 9 front4 ,if anybody w g to ! tr\ble to op5 8 own pants 9 front1 & draw ! front sidewise & ! side backw>d1 x w be se5 t t twi/ f ! inside angle to front ( knee w =m1 & by twi/+ ! upp] portion a great deal1 ! twi/ w =m all ov] ! leg4 ,n[1 if a pants =ms t twi/ itself1 x %[s t ! pants mu/ be alt]$ contr>y2 t is1 by r$uc+ ! front & all[+ beh9d1 or 9 o!r words1 by twi/+ ! pants wai/ f ! side =w>d & f ! back sidew>d4 ,h[ f> t twi/ is to be made dep5ds ^u ! condition ( ! pants1 also h[ f> d[n x is to be made4 ,z to ! am\nt ( *ang+ su* a patt]n or sy/em is n = me to say2 ,i c only po9t out ! way to alt]1 n ! am\nt4 ,su* pants1 :5 made up1 are h>d to alt]1 b by kn[+ h[ to alt] !m1 a cutt] c1 at lea/1 *ange ! next "o4 ,! ?igh prop] w\ld n require #a addition = ! dress side to ! angle ( #aj deg41 b ! legs at ! =k d n jo9 closely1 b are ab\t #a in*es ap>t1 & at ?is po9t1 & 9 front ( ! ?igh1 !re is a holl[ :i* is p>tly fill$ out ) ! sexual organ1 :i* mu/ be provid$ ) extra clo?1 commonly call$ 8dress0 9 tailors' language4 ,! holl[ itself =ms a bridge f "o leg to ! o!r1 & = ! purpose ( fitt+ pants1 clo? to cov] t bridge mu/ be all[$ = ea* leg1 & is put d[n 9 ?is "w z an all[ance ( to ! d\ble angle ( #aj deg4 = ! undress side4 ,?is all[ance = ! bridge is made on ! same pr9ciple z ! w$ges are1 :i* are put 9 betwe5 ! f+]s ( gloves1 & :i* all[ ! f+]s to move 9 any direction4 ,at l9e #h ! dress =k is plac$ at #a1 b #a is en\gh = a close fit1 & ! dress =k & ! back %\ld be ev5 at l9e #h4 ,! back is ev5 ) ! front at l9e #h1 & ! half dress =k at l9e #aj is made l>g] or small] accord+ to ! wid? at l9e #h1 all ( :i* con/itutes ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! op5 & ! close cut at t po9t4 ,n[ ,i mu/ say some?+ ab\t ! #a ?r[n =w>d on top ( wai/1 z 9 ,fig4 #a4 ,?is #a is = su* =ms :i* ?r[ _! front ( wai/1 say =w>d ( a /raight l9e1 runn+ p>allel ) ! front slope ( ! legs1 & :i* is =w>d on top1 & :i* =ms may be call$ =w>d lean+ wai/s1 b ! v>iations are s great t no positive po9t c be giv52 b 9 ord] to h some?+ = a /&>d1 ,i h put x d[n z 4 ,! =w>d gr[? ( ! top ( wai/ & ! f ! base to ! c5t]1 make a comb9ation ( #a & any wai/ :i* leans consid]ably =w>d1 or any wai/ t is ne> z l>ge z ! seat1 requires t am\nt4 ,all t :i* has be5 said above ab\t ! am\nt to be ?r[n =w>d ( ! base = ! normal =m1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xix1 is indep5d5t ( any consid]ation = a l>ge wai/1 & :i* is fur!r expla9$ 9 ! ,article on 8,pants40 ,b ,i mu/ add ?is3 ,a l>ge wai/1 ?\gh x gr[s =w>d f ! back1 don't locate itself =w>d accord+ to ! diff]5ce ( ! diamet] f front to back on ! same p]son1 z x might be suppos$4 ,:5ev] ! wai/ becomes l>g] ! body w /raight5 up1 9 ord] to keep 9 balance1 & we c see _m l>ge wai/$ =ms ^: front ( wai/ is no fur!r =w>d ?an t ( a small wai/$ =m1 & consequ5tly require n mu* addition to ! front1 b to ! side4 ,h5ce #a ?r[n =w>d may be pl5ty = ev5 a l>ge wai/1 & ,i f9d t two numb]s are ab\t ! mo/ :i* any pants c /&1 or ought to h4 ,x w\ld be folly to attempt to measure ! am\nt 9 any %ape or =m1 b all ?is mu/ be made by guess1 & x is =tunate = cutt]s t a qu>t] or ev5 "o half in*1 m or less1 w n kill ! fit4 7,see description ( ,fig4 #a47 ,! angle ( #g deg4 is =m$ accord+ to ! scale ( ! seat measure1 & ov] t po9t ! side ( ! pants may h ! full wid? ( t angle1 :ile above 7at ! wai/71 & bel[ 7at ! knee71 ! normal size requires a r$uction4 ,on ! normal =m ! seat measure is ! l>ge/1 & ! hips are cut accord+ly1 & ! wai/ & ! knee are cut accord+ to ! measure1 & x w be se5 t :5ev] ! wai/ becomes l>g]1 ! hips also increase1 & if we want to cut ! wai/ l>g] we _c help cutt+ ! hips l>g] also1 & ! hips w mo/ly foll[ ! wai/4 ,x is true !re are "s extra l>ge hips ) small wai/s1 & if ?is is ! case1 ! hips mu/ receive en\gh clo?1 & to reta9 a nice slope ( ! seams1 ! wai/ %\ld be cut d[n aga9 by a l>g] gore 9 ! middle ( ! back4 ,unless ! hips & wai/ are l>g] ?an ! seat1 !re is no ne$ ( go+ outside ( ! angle ( #g deg41 b extremely small wai/s & small hips require a r$uction ov] ! side1 ! same z extremely l>ge wai/s & hips require an addition4 ,h[ mu* t may be mu/ be left to ! cutt]1 b ,i w give a rule :i* works bo? ways3 ,on a normal #ch seat ! hip may be #cj & ! wai/ #cd1 :i* requires ! full angle ( #g deg4 at ! side ( l9e eight2 & at1 & above1 ! seat l9e1 b a r$uction ( say in* at ! wai/ on s+le clo?1 & a small gore 9 ! back4 ,n[1 if ! hips %\ld be #ch in*es too1 x is b reasonable to all[ ov] ! hips1 & outside ( ! angle ( #g deg41 ! diff]5ce ( su* #i numb]s1 at #d numb]s bel[ #j1 :i* is 9 ?is case ab\t ( an in* on bo? front & back4 ,/ill l>g] hips 9 proportion to ! seat & /ill l>g] sizes c be calculat$ ! same way1 & ?\gh ! rule w\ld hold good 9 ! case ( q small hips1 ! proportionately small] hips are seldom f\nd1 & if f\nd at all1 w indicate a small] wai/1 & ! slope to ! small] wai/ w regulate ! small] hip1 ! same z a l>g] wai/ w regulate a l>g] hip4 ,"s p]sons are f\nd :o are v flat f back to front1 & broad f side to side1 b ( normal circumf]5ce1 & = su*1 ! pants %\ld be cut full at ! top ( side1 & r$uc$ on top ( front1 because !y are mo/ly erect =ms4 ,9 all su* cases ,i w\ld consid] ! backbone1 at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 z a p]man5t ?+1 & regulate ! wai/ = any =m at ! front & side4 ,to obta9 ! correct %ape = ! dep? ( ! crot*1 is cle>ly %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii & ,,xiv1 or 9 any diagram ) a sweep f po9t #hj1 b we c n always g d[n to po9t #hj1 & ! next be/ ?+ to be done is by squ>+ f ! inside l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 ?r\gh po9t #aj on ! front base1 & x w result 9 ! same ?+4 ,at ! crot* all faults ( ! upp] "p ( a pair ( pants are record$4 ,if ! pants are too small ov] ! side ( wai/ or hip1 ! side ( ! wai/ or hip w seldom %[ x1 because ! solid hip w draw ! pants up to ! side1 & ! s(t "p ( ! inside ?igh w be p9*$ & saw$ by e /ep4 ,we f9d pl5ty ( m5 :o w always direct cutt]s to give !m pl5ty =k1 because !y always h _! pants too tight1 & :5 we look at su* p]sons1 we w f9d t !y are always full gr[n at ! sides ( hip & wai/4 ,true1 m =k w help su* pants1 b !y w n set z good z if !y 7 suppli$ ) suffici5t clo? ov] ! hips4 ,too mu* clo? ov] ! hips w n injure ! pants1 x w simply make !m l>ge !re1 b n en\gh w always br+ on compla9t4 ,= ! foll[+ reasons1 ! base1 or ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #g deg41 0 n plac$ 9 ! c5t] ( ! front3 #a/4 ,! base w\ld n run p>allel ) ! front ( ! leg4 #b;d4 ,! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 w\ld n run on & along ! c5t] ( ! leg1 & consequ5tly w\ld be useless = ! crease l9e4 #c;d4 ,! c5t] l9e w\ld n be a reliable po9t f :i* to e/abli% ! c5t] ( ! front1 at a di/ance ( wai/1 close measure4 #d?4 ,! c5t] l9e w\ld n be ! c5t] l9e = ! knee = all wid?s4 #e?4 ,! c5t] l9e1 be+ us$ = ! runn+ ( a /ripe1 w\ld n run ) suffici5t correctness1 at lea/ n on ! back4 ,all ! positions ( ! l9es1 angles & bases are plac$ z indicat$1 because ye>s ( trial h conv9c$ me t !y give ! be/ results4 ,!re is no way conceivable1 t ,i h n tri$1 to adju/ ! angle ( #g deg4 9 ord] to br+ ! l9es 9 h>mony ) ! body--& ! result is "h giv54 ,:at difficulties ,i h _h1 to obta9 ?is result1 x is n necess>y = me to say1 nei!r w\ld anyone believe me1 ,i suppose4 ,b ,i d say1 h[ev]1 t ,i sp5t #h ye>s 9 ! "w ( alt]ation1 to adju/ ?is angle ( #g deg4 ,to "s x may seem improbable t ,i w\ld possess ! pati5ce & det]m9ation to succe$ 9 solv+ ! problem1 & w\ld /ick to t det]m9ation = #h long ye>s--b ,i did4 ,n[1 ,i w give a description ( ! seat & comp>e x ) ! front1 & foll[ x ) a description ( ! slope ( ! back1 by :i* ! seat is to be fitt$4 ,f ! crot* =w>d ! front tap]s up1 & =w>d1 & ! normal =m c be fitt$ on a /raight l9e1 or ) a /raight piece ( mat]ial1 by simply turn+ ! crot* backw>d1 b x is n s ) ! back1 or ! seat 7see ,dia4 ,,xv74 ,! seat turns 9 a diff]5t way1 & f ! crot* backw>d2 d[nw>d fir/1 say #a to #a in*es1 !n backw>d1 & !n upw>d & =w>d aga94 ,a %eet ( pap] wrapp$ ar\nd ! body w fit well 9 to ! body ( ! normal =m all ar\nd ! front 7see ,dia4 ,,xv74 ,at ! side x w d ! same all ! way up to ! ?igh-bone1 or ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat4 ,b on ! back ! %eet w n meet ! body bel[1 or above ! seat1 nor w ! %eet t\* ! top ( ! side2 & 9 ord] to br+ ! back to ! body1 bel[ ! seat1 ! back mu/ be cut ?r\gh crosswise1 :5 ! l[] portion c be pu%$ 91 & ?us br\ght 9 contact ) ! back ( ! ?igh4 ,?us cutt+ ! %eet crosswise & bel[ ! seat w cause an op5+ ( ab\t #b in*es directly "u ! seat1 runn+ out to no?+ at ! side ( ! ?igh1 :i* op5+1 if m9utely exam9$1 w %[ an angle ( #ae deg4 ,?is mu/ be clos$ aga9 by ins]t+ a w$ge by "s means4 ,?is ins]t$ w$ge =ms a sack = ! seat1 & is ?r[n d[nw>d & backw>d j z ! seat itself4 ,b x w n d to cut pants ) a piece across ! seat1 s we mu/ create an artificial w$ge by us+ ! surplus clo? on ! top ( ! side1 & dipp+ x backw>d & d[nw>d ov] ! seat1 & inw>d to ! back ( ! ?igh4 ,by s do+1 ! orig9al back c5t] is ?r[n ov] ! l9e1 & is cut (f z back slope2 & :atev] ! back has be5 ?r[n d[nw>d1 &1 has lo/ 9 l5g?1 is all[$ aga9 on ! top1 & is usually t]m$ 8extra l5g? ( back40 ,:5 ! pants are on ! body1 bo? front & back are alike 9 l5g? z f> z ! fit is conc]n$1 b we may make ! back an in* long] = nice appe>ance1 & x is usually s done4 ,t portion :i* /&s (f on1 or ar\nd ! back1 on su* a %eet1 is r$uc$ by "o or two gores 9 ! back4 ,! extra l5g? ( ! back is tak5 up by w9d+ ar\nd ! seat1 & well-adju/$ or well-balanc$ pants w always fit !re4 ,i claim t ! angle ( #g deg41 ) an artificial w$ge across ! seat1 w produce ?is result e "t1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiv4 ,) ! help ( ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx & ,,xxi1 !re %\ld be no difficulty 9 cutt+ a pair ( pants t w be a pleasure to we>2 b1 z 9 all ?+s1 !re mu/ also be h>mony betwe5 ! cutt+ & mak+1 & = ?is purpose ,i w add1 t all diagrams & patt]ns issu$ by a reliable publi%] ( fa%ions are calculat$ to be cut f nice mat]ial1 :i* requires small seams4 ,_! pants are to be made up )\t l9+1 :i* all[s !m to give 9 e direction2 & !y are also calculat$ to be worn ov] nice-fitt+ "u-clo?+4 ,9 fact1 !y are calculat$ = f9e trade1 & !y are made by tailors1 :o receive ab\t #c4jj pay p] pair = mak+4 ,!re=e1 :5 su* a patt]n is s5t out1 & pants are made f *eap goods ) l>ge seams1 & 9 all probability l9$ ) heavy musl91 ! result is1 t ! cu/om] _c we> !m4 ,!n1 aga91 "o cutt] may p]haps all[ a little extra "h1 & ano!r all[ a little !re1 & ! pants 9 ! end may be l>ge en\gh--b :]e is ! city /yle & ! neat fit8 ,! same is true z to coats & ve/s4 ,reports ( fa%ions are int5d$ = f9e "w1 & all t ?is t]m implies2 & a cutt] :o uses su* patt]ns to make a pair ( pants = a man :o works 9 a dit* mu/ all[ m =k & m seat l5g? z well z m wid? = ! upp] body--all all[$ on ! side4 ,extra loos5ess = ! upp] body is be/ provid$ by all[+ all at ! side1 :]e x may hang loose b smoo?2 b if ! extra wid? is all[$ 9 ! =k1 x w rema9 !re on a twi/1 & x may ev5 cut ! seat1 if only all[$ above ! =k4 ,all[+ extra wid? above ! =k is almo/ z bad z to all[ extra wid? at ! front ( ! armhole1 :i* all[ance w\ld really make ! hole small]4 ,f ! crot* d[nw>d ! :ole leg mu/ con=m to ! slope ( ! angle ( #g deg41 because ! relation ( ! crot* & ! ankles *ange v little except on de=m$ p]sons4 ,"s p]sons may ?r[ _! feet a little fur!r ap>t ?an o!rs :5 walk+1 & ! c5t] ( ! body may be consid]$ at ! inside ankles1 or "o in* f ea* inside ankle1 j z a p]son may place 8 feet :ile /&+ naturally4 ,b :5 walk+1 ! c5t] ( ea* half body is 9 ! c5t] ( ea* leg1 = by ea* /ep "o leg makes ! :ole body mu/ ?r[ itself ^u ! c5t] ( ! o!r leg1 or else ! body w\ld tumble ov]4 ,?is c be be/ obs]v$ 9 sl[ walk+1 :ile by fa/ runn+ x is n notic$4 ,any p]son :o walks sl[ly ?r[s 8 upp] body m to a position ( /&+ on "o leg1 ?an a fa/ runn]1 h5ce ! sl[ walk] is se5 wabbl+ 8 head f "o side to ! o!r by e /ep1 ! same z a goose4 ,9 ?is "w ! pants are calculat$ ea* leg = itself1 & ea* leg has its own base2 & !y are s adju/$1 t a p]son c /&1 walk1 jump1 run1 sit1 etc41 & x mu/ be und]/ood t :5 a pants is on ! body ! base goes ) ! leg1 s t ! base runs /raight d[n :5 ! p]son makes a /ep1 or :5 he /&s on "o leg2 b :5 he /&s on bo? legs ! base w naturally run a trifle sidewise at ! ankles1 & consequ5tly a true plumb l9e pant base c n be f\nd1 except = "o position ( ! leg only1 & ! position ( ! bases1 z giv5 9 ?is "w1 are z ne> correct z any c be e/abli%$1 & f :i* any p>ticul> %ape ( pants may be %ap$4 ,z = in/ance3 ,rid+ pants require m =k1 s t ! rid] c spread 8 legs sidewise4 ,sailor pants require m wid? at ! bottom1 & t wid? mu/ be all[$ on ! outside1 or else su* pants w\ld /rike ea* o!r at e /ep4 ,= all su* & o!r *anges we h a base to "w f1 & aft] all su* *anges are made we mu/ see t provision is made to sew ! p>ts correctly toge!r1 by c>efully nick+ ! seams4 ,! c5t] ( gravitation 9 a pair ( pants may be consid]$ to exi/ at ! po9ts ( ! angles1 :i* are eighty numb]s bel[ ! top ( ! wai/1 h5ce a sweep f ! po9t w make a true connection at any po9t ( ! leg1 & su* sweeps c be dep5d$ ^u no matt] h[ n>r[ ! =e "p1 or h[ wide ! back is cut1 & especially s :5 laid out l ,diagrams ,,xiv & ,,xv4 ,n[1 to make a draft f t po9t = e pants or patt]n we cut1 w\ld be inconv5i5t1 nei!r is x requir$ t x %\ld be done1 except = practice2 b :5 a cutt] kn[s a c5t] :i* is infallible1 he is c]ta9ly bett] (f ?an if he kn[s no su* c5t]4 ,a s5sible p]son1 if he _c d j z he wants to1 w d ! be/ he c2 &1 s 9 ?is case1 !re are sev]al ways op5 = op]ations4 #a/4 ,cut bo? ! front & back ( equal wid? at ! knee1 & not* !re2 !n measure upw>d & d[nw>d4 #b;d4 ,run ! inside & ! outside l9es ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 d[n z f> z ! clo? or ! table all[s1 & sweep ! inside seam f ! inside l9e & ! outside f ! outside l9e1 ea* seam sep>ately1 f a po9t z f> d[n z y c rea*4 #c;d4 ,fold ! broad] back ov] to ! small] front1 s t bo? w lay smoo? & )\t twi/+1 !n cut ! nicks4 #d?4 ,squ>e f ea* l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg41 & at ! knee only1 because1 at ! knees1 ! front & ! back are ! ne>e/ toge!r1 !n measure up & d[n & cut ! nicks1 & 9 all cases be c>eful t ! back is n held full beh9d ! knee & upw>d on ei!r seam4444 ,if ! di/ance betwe5 ! small] front & wid] back 7 miles1 or rods1 ev51 ! result w\ld n be v satisfactory1 b 9 ?is case ! space is nev] m ?an #a in*1 & ! v>iations 9 ! sev]al ways are n p]ceptible4 ,! diagrams 9 ?is "w are ! be/ illu/ration ( ! sweeps f po9t #hj1 z well z ( ! cutt+ ( all seams on a nice slope4 ,! m$ium sizes require ! top ( =ep>t ab\t ( ! :ole wai/ measure1 b small] sizes require ! side seam fur!r back & ! l>g] ones m =w>d on acc\nt ( ! pockets4 ,ano!r po9t %\ld be obs]v$3 ,x has be5 /at$ t ! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 is a l9e to squ>e f = a level bottom z well z = a level top1 all ( :i* is true1 b ! wai/ ( ! normal =m runs d[nw>d 9 front1 & ! top ( ! normal wai/ %\ld be run 9 ! same direction1 & = ?is reason %\ld be squ>$ f ! front base l9e1 & = extremely small wai/s x may be squ>$ f ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 ,tak+ ,dia4 ,,xiv z a model1 we may s9k ! front ( wai/ in* & raise ! back 1 to #a in* f t top squ>e l9e4 ,9 conclusion ( ?is article1 ,i w say t1 p]haps1 ,i h gone too _m times ov] ! same gr\nd1 & p]haps ,i w g ov] x aga9 & aga91 b x is always f a diff]5t /&po9t & connect$ ) some?+ else4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,g5]al ,,rem>ks ,,ab\t ,,pants4 ,at ! pres5t "t1 ! /yle ( pants is loose at ! knee1 tap]+ small] t[>d ! bottom4 ,pants :i* are cut wide at ! knee mu/ />t ) extra wid? at ! seat l9e1 & said extra wid? mu/ be well divid$ on bo? seams4 ,all pants mu/ fit ! same at ! seat l9e & above1 & fa%ionable wid? at ! knee mu/ be />t$ f ! seat l9e d[nw>d4 ,dia4 ,,xix repres5ts a pants ( ! pres5t /yle1 & is made ov] a patt]n ( #ch seat1 actual wai/ measure #cc1 & wai/ made up #cd2 ab\t #ai knee1 #ah bottom1 & is = a r small wai/4 ,dia4 ,,xx repres5ts a l>ge wai/1 ( ab\t #ej in*es1 made up2 b actual wai/ measure #dg1 & seat measure #df in*es2 knee #bb1 bottom #bj4 ,= extremely l>ge wai/s1 ,dia4 ,,xx may be us$1 & t extra wid? all[$ equal 9 front & on ! side4 ,on all l>ge wai/s1 ! seat measure mu/ be tak5 close1 & ! =k cut accord+ly1 no matt] :at ! hip & ! wai/ measure may be4 ,! seat measure is ! /&>d = ! scale1 & ! l>ge wai/ mu/ be fitt$ accord+ to ! measure1 ! same z ! l5g? ( ! legs1 or ! wid? ( ! knee4 ,dia4 ,,xxi repres5ts a pants ( #ci seat1 ) a v high wai/4 ,! top ( wai/ is made up #cg in*es1 b at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ x is only #cf in*es4 ,! angle ( #g deg4 has ! prop] wid? = all pants1 at ! seat l9e1 & 9 no case is a r$uction1 or an addition requir$ !re4 ,above ! seat l9e1 ! hip & wai/ mu/ be made accord+ to ! measure1 & bel[1 x mu/ be made accord+ to /yle & measure4 ,z to ! top ( ! side1 x may be prop] to rem>k "h1 t if ! top ( ! side is too small = any pants1 ! =k balance w be de/roy$1 because ! sides ( ! body w draw ! =k upw>d1 & w cause x to cut ! crot* some:]e4 ,! wai/ is "o cont9u\s surface all ar\nd & may feel tight all ar\nd1 b if ! crot* is pull$ up by a small wai/ at ! top ( side1 t w saw ! crot* on "o spot4 ,!re=e ,i w repeat ! true balance = ! wai/1 on ! angle ( #g deg4 ,r$uce ! angle ( #g deg4--f #f upw>d1 #ae deg4 = back slope--f ! top ( ! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 g =w>d ( :ole wai/ circumf]5ce1 close measure2 cut a gore ( #a in* 9 ! c5t] ( ! back2 measure f ! front to ! side & f ! back to ! side1 & if t gives too mu* wai/1 cut ano!r small gore betwe5 ! =ep>t & ! back4 ,b if ! wai/ requires m ?an t1 divide ! addition requir$ into #c p>ts1 & place #b p>ts at ! sides & #a "p 9 front4 ,if ! wai/ is high] ?an :ole seat measure1 run ! gore 9 ! back1 out to no?+ on top1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xxi1 & ! high] ! wai/ is cut upw>d ! m x mu/ be cut l ,dia4 ,,xiii1 bo? at ! side & at ! front4 ,work+ pants ) ! front cut cle> up to ! neck1 mu/ h ! upp] "p ( ! front cut l ,dia4 ,,xiii1 t is1 slop$ backw>d #ae deg4 f ! wai/4 ,dia4 ,,xx has #b numb]s ?r[n out 9 front & top ( wai/1 & at l9e #h x is #a :ile ! d\ble dress =k po9t has #d1 :i* produces a good op5 cut = su* pants4 ,! po9t ( ! =k may be made in* m or less = ! same p]son1 provid+ all[ance or r$uction at ! po9t ( ! =k is run up & d[n1 runn+ out ab\t #e in*es above ! =k1 & at1 or bel[ ! knee4 ,i "k x is cont5d$ t a l>ge-wai/$ =m requires a l>g] =k 9 proportion to ! seat measure1 b ?is is n ! case1 z long z ! hips & sides ( wai/ h suffici5t clo?4 ,! ?igh may gr[ 9 proportion to a l>g] seat1 b x does n gr[ 9 proportion to a l>g] wai/4 ,l>ge-wai/$ p]sons h small seats 9 proportion to ! normal =m1 & ! proportion ( ! scale ( ! seat measure is l>ge en\gh = all =ms4 ,t same result may be obs]v$ at ! knee1 & at ! bottom2 & to bett] express my ideas1 ,i w say some?+ ab\t ! diamet] ( ! ?igh1 z well z ! diamet] ( ! knee & ! ankle4 ,= ! purpose ( cutt+ pants1 ! leg may be consid]$ a /raight & r\nd pole1 b tap]+ at ! l[] end to ab\t ( :at x is on top4 ,! ?igh c be cov]$ & fitt$ = mod]n pants1 all seams includ$1 if we all[ x #d times its diamet]1 close measure ( ! ?igh1 )\t compress+ x4 ,! circumf]5ce ( a circle is equal to ?ree & "o ?\s& f\r hundr$ & sixte5 t5 ?\s&?s 7#c4adaf7 times its diamet]1 :i* is s ne> to #c t we may call x s1 at lea/ = ! purpose ( cutt+ & fitt+ pants4 ,n[1 if #c diamet]s ( ! ?igh w con/itute ! circle = ! ?igh1 !n t circle w fit ! ?igh sk9 tight1 b if we all[ #d diamet]s1 we h en\gh clo? to sew seams & a few in*es beside = /raddle & g5]al loos5ess4 ,if ! diamet] ( ! ?igh 7 only #a in*1 #d diamet]s1 or #d in*es1 w\ld n give clo? en\gh to g all ar\nd1 aft] #a in* is us$ up = seams4 ,9 cutt+ pants1 we may say t a seat size ( #cf in*es is a m$ium size2 & = ! purpose ( fitt+ su* a ?igh ) a mod]n pants1 we w call its actual diamet] #f in*es2 & its sk9-tight circumf]5ce j #ba in*es1 & close inve/igation w %[ t ?is is a fair av]age4 ,if we give su* a pants #d times #f in*es1 & d$uct #a in* = all seams1 we h #bc in*es left to cov] ! ?igh1 :i* only measures #ba in*es1 & ?is w\ld be pl5ty = ! undress side4 ,i d n say t a close-fitt+ undress side c n /& m ?an ?is1 b ,i say x %\ld h t mu*1 & t #a to #a in*es m1 ev5ly divid$1 w n make x too l>ge = a fit1 at lea/ n = ! pres5t conception ( a fit4 ,at ! side ( ?igh1 ! angle ( #g deg4 is j ( ! :ole net seat measure1 :i* may be tak5 = a m$ium loose leg1 b = a q close fit1 to in* may be d$uct$1 & = a q loose fit1 any?+ may be all[$ !re1 :i* w make a nice slope = ! seams4 ,= a size #cf ! angle ( #b deg4 has a wid? ( #c in*es at ! =k1 & ! d\ble angle ( #aj deg4 requires d\ble ! am\nt ( #d times #c in*es1 mak+ 9 all #bd in*es1 to :i* is add$ #a in*es = ! undress side1 = extra /raddle1 & ! bridge f "o leg to ! o!r1 mak+ x #ac in*es 9 all = ! half undress side4 ,! above calculation is "h giv5 = ! purpose ( %[+ h[ close ! diamet] & ! circumf]5ce ( ! ?igh correspond to ! angle ( #g deg4 z us$ 9 ?is "w4 ,x also %[s t a l>g] ?igh1 say ( #g in*es diamet]1 produces m clo? 9 proportion to a small] ?igh ( say #e in*es diamet]1 & t ! addition ( #b in*es to ea* & all half seat measures w give a good balance = all sizes4 ,b = reasons expla9$ else:]e1 boys %\ld h pl5ty =k1 & :5 we come bel[ size #bh1 we %\ld give all t is consi/5t ) a v op5 cut ( ! =k4 ,! l>ge/ sizes may be cut accord+ to ! scale & to ,dia4 ,,xx4 ,at ! knee ! same proportion ( #d diamet]s w hold good4 ,let u accept ! diamet] ( ! knee ( a seat size ( #cf z #d 941 & all[+ #d times #d 941 we h #ah 941 f :i* is to be tak5 (f #a 94 = seams1 & we h #ag 94 left1 :i* is en\gh to cov] ! leg4 ,b we f9d t = a #cj size ! knee w\ld n be l>ge en\gh = ! purpose1 & an addition mu/ be made accord+ to ! measure1 & ! contr>y is ! case on l>g] sizes1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xx4 ,at ! bottoms we f9d ! same calculation to be true1 = if we take ! diamet] ( ! ankle to be #c 94 = size #cf1 ! #d times #c 94 w give u #ab 941 & aft] #a 94 is us$ up = seams1 we h ab\t ! actual circumf]5ce ( ! b>e ankle1 & :atev] boot1 /yle or notion requires m1 is all[$ equally on bo? sides1 except on sailor pants1 :i* mu/ h m on ! outside1 & ! inside mu/ h a reasonable all[ance only4 ,dia4 ,,xix is made f a patt]n ( #ch seat size1 & #cc actual wai/ measure1 b ! wai/ made up w be #cd to #ce 941 & :i* may be call$ a normal wai/4 ,! back seam mu/ be cut on a g5tle curve on & ov] ! seat l9es1 because ! curv$ edge ov] ! seat seam w become /raight :ile w9d+ ar\nd ! seat4 ,t portion ( ! side seam betwe5 ! calf & ! seat l9e1 mu/ be regulat$ accord+ to ! measure ( ! knee4 ,:5ev] ! /yle requires a l>ge knee1 ! side ( ! ?igh mu/ h m wid?1 />t+ at ! seat l9e & runn+ d[n to bel[ ! knee1 s t x c spread 9 su* a mann] t bo? front & back w possess a smoo? ev5 slope4 ,extra wid? !re w n %[1 b w hang !re z ?\gh ! body w\ld fill x out4 ,:5 a p]son assumes a sitt+ po/ure ! wid? f ! outside w g backw>d j z easily z ! wid? f ! inseam w g backw>d1 & ! extra wid? w n int]f]e ) ! side ( ! ?igh2 b extra wid? at ! back curve1 at l9e #h1 w d h>m1--9 fact x w int]f]e ) ! seat1 unless x c be spread also4 ,to be successful 9 cutt+ pants1 a cutt] mu/ be able to produce a close-fitt+ "o1 & :5 he c d t he mu/ be able to use ! close-fitt+ pants z a base = a loose-fitt+ "o )\t los+ ! balance4 ,aft] a cutt] c d ?is he is n yet done1 = !n comes ^? ta/y t\*es1 :i* consi/ 9 8 ability to h>monize ?igh & knee & bottom = ea* p>ticul> cu/om]1 & :i* _c be le>n$ f ! books1 b mu/ gradually come to him ?r\gh exp]i5ce & att5tion to bus9ess4 ,a n>r[ leg mu/ be %ap$ accord+ to ! %ape ( ! knee1 & %\ld be held a trifle full ov] ! knee1 say ab\t #d 94 above & #d 94 bel[ ! c5t]2 b t 8full+0 mu/ be equal on bo? sides & c>efully not*$1 s t ! mak] _c ?r[ ! leg out ( %ape4 ,! be/ way to not* ! seams is to not* equally ab\t #e 94 above & ! same di/ance bel[ ! knee1 & !n measure d[n equally to )9 #e or #f 94 ( ! bottom1 & not* aga94 ,)9 ^! #e or #f 94 above ! bottom all /ret*+ ( ! side ( ! =e "p mu/ be done = spr+-bottom pants4 ,^! may seem q too _m trifles to att5d to1 b a few not*es are soon made1 & if a leg twi/s x w p]haps take h\rs to alt] x1--(t5 x w become worse 9 alt]+4 ,a small leg %\ld also h a trifle curve or spread at ! outside seam1 ov] ! side ( ! calf1 :ile ! inside is p]fectly /raight1 except :at is requir$ = ! %oe or boot or /yle1 & a close-fitt+ pants mu/ also be /ret*$ at ! back crease l9e ov] ! calf4 ,cutt]s1 & tailors z well1 mu/ /udy ! =m ( ! body f neck to ankle1 & _! ideas mu/ h>monize z to :at t =m requires4 ,a l9e may be /ruck any:]e on a patt]n & us$ z a base to "w f4 ,a l9e may be /ruck f ! top ( ! side to ! inside ankle1 & ! same ?+ c be produc$ on a l>g] or small] scale4 ,b su* a l9e is only an imag9>y base4 ,a l9e to be wor?y ( ! "n 8,base0 mu/ correspond to c]ta9 angles1 or c]ta9 edges or slopes ( ! body1 & = ?is reason ,i claim t ! angles ( #g or #ae deg4 are p]fect bases = cutt+ pants1 because !y correspond to ! slope ( ! sides ( ! legs4 ,n[1 :5 we receive a new "w1 or a new diagram1 or a new patt]n1 f our late/ fa%ion reports1 we f9d a l9e "h on "o1 & a l9e !re on ! o!r1 :i* !y use z bases1 & bo? may be "r2 b unless !y %[ di/9ctly :y x is a c]ta9 di/ance f "o po9t to ano!r1 & :y ! l9es are j s & n o!rwise1 all p>ts & po9ts mu/ rema9 unc]ta9 quantities ) ! un9itiat$ :5 ! pants is to be made ei!r l>g] or small] at ! wai/ or at ! knee4 ,9 us+ ! angle ( #g or #aj deg4 = cutt+ pants1 ! base is cle>ly indicat$1 & ei!r l9e ( its diff]5t divisions may be us$ z a base4 ,z a pro( t ! angle ( #g deg4 is a true base = all pants1 is ! fact1 t aft] ! pants patt]n is m>k$ out1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx & ,,xxi1 & ! sweeps = not*es are made f ! po9t ( ! angles1 ! po9t ( ! angle may be us$ z a pivot1 & ! =ep>t may be ?r[n =w>d s t m back slope w be obs]v$1 or ! =ep>t may be ?r[n sidewise s t less or no back slope may be ! result2 & 9 bo? cases all po9ts w *ange _! relation1 except ! sweeps f ! po9t4 ,:at "o side loses ! o!r side ga9s4 ,if all o!r po9ts are correctly balanc$ x matt]s n h[ l>ge or h[ small ! back slope or ! =k ( ! pants may be made1 or :]e ! seams are locat$4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xxii & ,,xxiii47 ,if a cutt] goes to ! tr\ble to m>k a l9e = e degree or fraction !re(1 & draw /it*es 9 !m1 he w f9d t ! legs w fold1 or c be press$ into %ape1 on any ( ^! l9es1 & on no o!r4 ,:5 su* a pants leg is sew$ toge!r1 x may be turn$ 9 almo/ any position1 ) or )\t back slope1 & w always turn f ! po9t ( ! angle1 ?\gh cut (f at ! ankles2 & ! sweeps at ! knee1 or at o!r po9ts1 swept f ! po9t ( ! angle1 w always fit toge!r4 ,& :5 ! g>m5t is ^u ! body1 su* sweeps w be horizontal l9es all ar\nd ! =m1 & no horizontal l9e c be produc$ f any o!r po9t1 ei!r by squ>e or by sweeps4 ,! above reason+ ought to settle ! "q ( back slope1 :i* has be5 ! great conundrum = ! la/ c5tury4 ,i h gone ?r\gh a great _m tribulations 9 cutt+ pants1 & o!r g>m5ts1 & x may be t ,i h kill$ m g>m5ts ?an anyone else1 b ,i det]m9$ to solve ! "q if life p]mitt$1 & ,i claim t ,i h be5 rew>d$4 ,look+ back ov] a =ty-ye> /ruggle1 ,i feel t k9d ,provid5ce has treat$ me v k9dly1 ?\gh 9 disguise1 by refus+ to let me succe$ ye>s ago2 = 9 t case1 ,i suppose1 ,i w\ld nev] h ?\ght ( try+ to discov] any?+ bett]4 ,i w "h m5tion "o difficulty ,i h _h to cont5d )1 & ,i h no d\bt b t o!rs h exp]i5c$ ! same tr\ble1 & t a great _m m w h ! same vexation aft] ?is1 unless !y und]/& ! pr9ciple ( _! "w4 ,sometimes my pants turn$ out to be too long1 & at o!r times too %ort2 & no matt] h[ long or h[ %ort ,i took ! measures !y w\ld turn out to be j ! opposite4 ,)\t go+ into details1 ,i w give ! reasons = su* defects z ,i h le>n$ to und]/& !m4 ,pants may be too long or too %ort )\t any o!r fault2 & su* mu/ simply be made %ort] or long]4 ,no cutt] ne$ expect to be exempt f ! necessity ( su* alt]ation1 & su* alt]ation ,i d n speak ( z mean+ faulty pants4 ,i speak ( too long or too %ort pants :i* are too long or too %ort because ! miscon/ruct$ leg twi/s some:]e1 & produces folds or wr9kles1 & consequ5tly draws ! bottom up or d[n4 ,pants may be too long because ! =k is n l>ge en\gh f "s cause1 & _c be drawn up into ! crot*1 & mu/ be let d[n & cut (f bel[2 b su* a g>m5t w draw up at e /ep1 & :5 ! we>] assumes ! sitt+ position ! bottom w crawl half way to ! knee4 ,pants :i* h too mu* clo? 9 ! front ( ! wai/ w be pull$ backw>d "u ! buckle-/raps1 & 9 s do+ ! :ole back w wr9kle & "w d[nw>d1 & w crawl "u ! heel at e /ep1 unless made q %ort2 :ile walk+1 ea* /ep w draw a wr9kle f ! bottom ( ! inn] seam =w>d & upw>d to ! knee4 ,_m a g>m5t ( ?is k9d we see e day ^u ! /reets ( e city & t[n4 ,n[ comes ! opposite4 ,pants :i* h too mu* back slope =m extra l>ge seats1 & consequ5tly !y c be drawn z tightly z possible )\t cutt+ ! we>]4 ,su* mu/ be cut extremely long at ! bottom1 & x w be f\nd t x is n mu* ( a trick to cut two pairs ( pants = ! same p]son ( :i* "o is to be an in* long] ?an ! o!r4 ,pants t are cut away too mu* 9 front & back1 & spread sidewise1 w also become too %ort at ! bottom1 because 9 br++ ! side to ! body ! :ole front & inn] seam are laid 9 wr9kles1 :i* take up l5g?4 ,su* may be made long en\gh by op5+ ! side seam & giv+ ! :ole side seam at ! ?igh a good /ret*+1 ext5d+ backw>d & =w>d z f> z possible4 ,ano!r cause = %ortness ( pants at ! bottom is :5 ! =k is n cut deep en\gh1 = if ! po9t ( ! =k is too high = ! front & back curve1 ! extra height w fold up1 &1 ( c\rse1 be+ )9 ! measure1 w be miss+ bel[4 ,9 ?is connection x is p]haps ! prop] place to po9t out ! way 9 :i* to treat ! crot*1 z reg>ds ! dep? ( ! =k po9t4 ,f ! front base l9e ( ! angle ( #g deg41 m>k at #f = ! seat l9e1 & squ>e to ! side2 m>k l9es #h & #aj1 make ! division ( ! angle ( #g deg4 on l9e #h z #c & #i sidewise & #c =w>d2 !n squ>e f ! inside l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 ?r\gh #aj 9 front ( ! ?igh4 ,& obs]ve1 t squ>+ ?r\gh po9t #aj f ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg41 z direct$ 9 ?is "w1 w locate ! =k po9t in* l[] ?an if ! squ>+ 0 done f ! c5t] ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 ?r\gh po9t #aj4 ,if ! back is made #d wide1 ! po9t ( ! back mu/ s9k ab\t in* l[] ?an t squ>e l9e ?r\gh po9t #aj1 b a sweep f po9t #hj w\ld br+ all po9ts on ! same sweep4 ,at ! angle ( #aj deg41 ! undress =k is ab\t to high] ?an ! sweep or ! squ>e l9e1 :ile ! dress =k & back are ab\t above ! sweep4 ,all ( :i* mu/ be obs]v$ 9 %ap+ ! crot*4 ,! wid? ( ! knee %\ld 9 all cases be measur$1 b 9 ! abs5ce ( a positive measurem5t1 x %\ld be obs]v$ t ! half-seat measure gives a good wid? = ! knee = size #cf1 b size #dh is l>ge en\gh ) #bb 941 or #b 94 less ?an half seat1 :ile size #bd requires a knee ( at lea/ #ad 941 or #b 94 m ?an half seat1 & x %\ld be easy = e cutt] to grade ! sizes betwe54 ,! same v>iations mu/ be made at ! bottoms4 ,! po9ts ( ! =k mu/ be consid]$ un*angeable1 except = /yle1 & all *anges1 z to ! backw>d or =w>d lean+ wai/s1 mu/ be made upw>d4 ,! fact is1 t ! =k & ! seat are ! only p>ts ( ! pants :i* c be obta9$ satisfactorily by ! scale2 all o!r wid?s & all l5g?s mu/ be obta9$ by ! measure4 ,by obs]v+ ,dia4 ,,xv x w be se5 t a c]ta9 hole is cut out ( a c]ta9 %eet :i* ! body is expect$ to fill out1 & :5ev] ! front is made l>g] x mu/ be made t mu* small] 9 ! back1 & vice v]sa4 ,on top ( wai/1 ! body %ifts backw>d & =w>d1 & ! pants mu/ foll[1 :ile bo? body & pants mu/ be consid]$ /ation>y at ! =k4 ,dia4 ,,xv 0 int5d$ to repres5t a l>ge wai/1 & also a =w>d-lean+ wai/1 h5ce ! front ( ! body is 9 front ( ! base1 %[+ t ! front ( ! pants requires additional clo?4 ,! position ( ,fig4 & ,dia4 ,,xv mu/ be consid]$ z a p]son split 9 two f back to front1 & a %eet ( pap] appli$ z %[n by ! diagram4 ,"o ( ! mo/ common faults ( o!rwise well-fitt+ pants is a fold or a crease =m+ at ! bottom ( ! 9-seam1 & runn+ =w>d & upw>d to ! c5tre ( ! leg 9 front any:]e bel[ ! knee4 ,x may be obs]v$ :5 a p]son /&s /ill1 or :5 he walks1 b x becomes worse :5 walk+2 ! k9k =ms at e /ep4 ,?is mon/rosity c ev5 be se5 on ! fa%ion plates1 ! publi%] ( :i* may cont5d t ?is is a natural fault1 or t x is s because ( a p]son's peculi> position1 or ! way he walks1 all ( :i* is bo%1 because a good-fitt+ pants does n d t1 & a cu/om] :o leaves 8 ord] does n expect su* fits1 & he w\ld n leave 8 ord] = any price1 if he 7 assur$ 9 advance t 8 pants w\ld cut su* sn\ts :5 done4 ,! fact t a great _m pants cut su* sorr[ful faces :5 on ! /reet is no excuse = any cutt] to foll[ suit4 ,pants c be cut to hang /raight1 = we see !m "r along on ! /reet1 & we may see a nice look+ pants to-morr[ on a p]son :o wore a gimlet ye/]day4 ,pants ) ! above nam$ faults usually set /raight if ! we>] spreads 8 legs1 say ab\t two feet at ! ankles1 :i* %[s t su* pants w\ld fit on a p]son :o %\ld walk 9 t position4 ,if ! upp] body fits1 ! *ange mu/ be made f ! crot* d[n1 by />t+ !re & giv+ m wid? at ! bottom ( ! 9-seam1 & tak+ x (f at ! outside1 :i* gives ! leg a diff]5t slope1 ! am\nt ( :i* mu/ dep5d ^u ! judgm5t ( ! cutt]1 b ,i w say t "o in* goes a great ways4 ,if a cutt] is tr\bl$ ) ?is fault1 ! be/ ?+ he c d is to p9 up ! fold on & along ! 9-seam1 & any:]e bel[ ! crot*1 until ! leg hangs /raight1 !n fold ! patt]n ! same way & *ange ! draft accord+ly4 ,! same effect c be obta9$ by cutt+ ! patt]n ?r\gh at ! outside4 ,b to imitate ?is cutt+ ?r\gh on a pants :i* is made already1 ! side-seam %\ld be op5$ & bo? sides1 back & front1 pretty well /ret*$ at & bel[ ! side ( ?igh4 ,/ret*+ bo? outsides z f> ov] z possible is equal to %r9k+ bo? insides4 ,%r9k+ ! inside w\ld come back aga91 & make ! pants too %ort1 b if ! outside is well /ret*$1 t w rema94 ,?is fault may also be alt]$ by op5+ ! :ole 9-seam & by dropp+ all ! nicks ( ! =ep>t to in*es bel[ ^? ( ! back1 & cutt+ top ( back =k t mu* l[]4 ,*ang+ ! sides 9 a contr>y way w accompli% ! same ?+4 ,dropp+ ! =ep>t 9-seam in* bel[ ! back 9-seam nick w ?r[ ! c5t] ( foot at lea/ #a 94 sidewise4 ,my exp]i5ce ) su* pants is ?is3 ,rip ! :ole pants1 e seam ( x1 cut a new patt]n & /ret* or %r9k all p>ts ( ! pants1 until !y con=m to ! patt]n4 ,x is bett] to lose ! mak+ ( ! pants ?an to alt] bl9dly & spoil ! :ole ( x4 ,pants :i* h faults contr>y to ! above description mu/ be alt]$ contr>y to ! above alt]ation1 all ( :i* mu/ be done by a me*anic :o kn[s 8 bus9ess1 & "o :o feels an int]e/ 9 ! "w to be done4 ,x takes a good tailor to be a good bu%elman4 ,! normal =m requires ! height above ! crot* ( ! :ole net seat measure1 t is ab\t #i 94 = a seat ( #cf1 :i* is long en\gh = ! body1 & = a pants t is int5d$ to fit close at ! wai/4 ,b a great _m p]sons require _! pants high] up1 & #aj or m numb]s ( ! scale may be us$4 ,pants :i* are cut high] ?an net wai/ measure mu/ be sprung out on top1 & on bo? ! side seam & on ! gore1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii1 & su* pants %\ld be z l>ge z possible at ! top1 because a pants mu/ n /rike ! %ort ribs at ! side4 ,b = su* high pants ! buckle-/raps %\ld be entirely omitt$1 or plac$ l[1 s z to draw at ! actual holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,if x 7 n = ! pockets1 wai/ b&s w\ld be useless1 & no pants require wai/ b&s ov] ! back4 ,if wai/ b&s are cut ov] ! back1 !y %\ld be sew$ on loose ov] ! back1 especially on high wai/s4 ,a great _m hold ! backs full on ! wai/ b&1 b ?is is n good1 = if ! wai/ is to be small]1 ! gore 9 ! back may be cut l>g]4 ,sew+ on ! wai/ b& tight1 is j z bad z sew+ ! coll> ( a coat tight ov] ! side ( ! neck4 ,:]e ! wai/ b& is to be1 or at lea/ :]e x ought to be1 ! body turns l>g] upw>d & ! wai/ b& %\ld be loose1 unless ! wai/ is q %ort4 ,hip pockets are an abom9ation1 b someh[1 m5 want & tailors mu/ make !m2 b all su* pants %\ld be cut high 9 ! wai/ 9 ord] to br+ su* pockets high up1 & = ?is reason ! buckle /rap %\ld be omitt$1 or !y may be sew$ on ! outside ( ! hip pockets1 s t ! pocket is above ! /rap1 & ! sides %\ld be cut z 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii & ,,xxi4 ,"s cutt]s require t ! pants mak] hold ! back full on ! top ( ! 9-seam1 & o!rs aga9 ,i h se5 :o require ! =e "p /ret*$1 & o!rs /ret* bo? back & front crot*1 :ile aga9 o!rs h a /ay put 9 ! :ole l5g? ( ! crot* seam to keep x f /ret*+1 & all may be "r provid+ ! pants are cut accord+ly4 ,z f> z ?is "w is conc]n$ ,i h adopt$ ! middle way1 & say t ! seams %\ld be sew$ up ev54 ,b "h ,i mu/ caution any "o n to /ret* ! 9-seam unless he has a good reason to d s4 ,! 9-seam /ret*es s mu* easi] ?an ! outside seam1 & if /ret*$1 )\t x is requir$1 ?r[s ! pants legs into a diff]5t direction2 t is1 too f> ap>t at ! bottom1 & su* pants w only fit :5 ! p]son spreads 8 legs ap>t1 say #aj or #ab 941 or if he /&s on "o leg only4 ,su* pants usually ?r[ a fold f ! in/ep1 up & =w>d1 to ! knee at e /ep1 & !re are pl5ty su* pants se5 all ov] ! c\ntry4 ,! ready-made clo?+ manufactur]s are always up to ! times1 & cat* on to su* ?+s1 & to-day we see a great _m ready-made pants ) a /ay tape 9 ! 9-seam4 ,"s ( ^! days pants w aga9 be made ) welt$ side seam1 :i* d\ble /it*+ w make ! outside /iff & draw t seam toge!r1 :ile ! 9-seam /ret*es1 & ! above fault w %[ /ill worse4 ,?is is "o ( ! po9ts :i* %\ld be /udi$ c>efully by e cutt] & tailor1 b :i* is n consid]$ by a great _m1 h5ce by obs]v+ ! 8hang0 ( pants on p]sons on any /reet 9 any city1 we f9d only a few p]fect hang+ pants1 :ile ! great majority flap 9 all directions4 ,!re are c]ta9ly m mis-fitt+ pants to be obs]v$ ?an any o!r g>m5t4 ,i consid] ! cause ( x 9 ! great] l5g? ( ! p>ts ( pants1 & also 9 ! fact t !y are sew$ up all ar\nd4 ,a frock coat has a *ance to g backw>d or =w>d by an op5 front & op5 back skirt1 )\t %[+ wr9kles1 b pants are sew$ up all ar\nd1 & ! lea/ miscon/ruction w %[4 ,b !re is ano!r reason4 ,! wai/ & skirt ( a coat is all outside ( ! body1 :ile ! pants may be said to h a p>tition 9 ! %ape ( a crot* seam1 & :i* crot* seam is affect$ by e /ep4 ,i d n l ! idea ( putt+ a /ay tape 9 ! crot* seams1 because all su* seams %\ld be made up ?9 & neat1 & aga91 pants mak]s may g to ! o!r extreme & draw ! /ay too close4 ,if pants seem to h ! above describ$ faults1 ,i w\ld advise cutt]s to give ! inside ( ! bottom m on ! d\ble1 t is1 locat+ ! c5t] ( heel & foot m t[>d ! inside )\t di/urb+ ! angle ( #aj deg4 ,?is tak+ (f at ! outside & putt+ x on ! inside mu/ />t at ! ?igh1 & am\nts to ab\t at ! knee1 ?an :at x is at ! bottom4 ,9 cutt+ & mak+ pants1 or any o!r g>m5t1 a cutt] mu/ "k :om he is try+ to fit1 & = :at occupation ! g>m5t is to be us$4 ,x wants to be consid]$ z to :e!r ! p]son mo/ly /&s or sits4 ,a p]son :o wants a suit = a w$d+ requires a diff]5t ?+ entirely ?an a p]son :o hit*es up horses or :o works 9 ! field1 or digs 9 a tr5*4 ,a tailor requires a l>g] pants wai/ ?an a cl]k1 & any tailor :o ignores ?is fact is mo/ly f\nd squatt+ d[n ) ! top button ( 8 pants op54 ,n[1 if a p]son :o writes all day wants to sit d[n com=table :5 he works he mu/ h a pants :i* is loose1 & ev5 too loose :5 he /&s or walks1 b t c n be help$1 & a cu/om] %\ld be s told :5 he ord]s 8 pants1 & he c h 8 *oice4 ,b x mu/ be obs]v$ t p]sons :o sit a good deal & want a loose wai/ require ! all[ance 9 front & side & ! back slope %\ld be made lib]ally l>ge1 9 ord] to obta9 a long] seat1 ev5 if ! seat %[s surplus clo? :5 /&+4 ,a long back slope prev5ts ! pants f pull+ up f ! bottom1 :5 sitt+ d[n1 & we f9d t pants :i* fit v neat at ! seat :5 /&+1 are m apt to crawl up :5 ! p]son sits d[n1 ?an su* pants :i* %[ surplus l5g? ( seat :5 /&+4 ,b "r "h let me w>n ( an error into :i* _m cutt]s fall3 ,a pants cut on c]ta9 l9es or angles1 l ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx & ,,xxi1 requires a c]ta9 am\nt = =k & a c]ta9 am\nt = back slope1 or l5g? = ! seat4 ,ea* has a c]ta9 function to p]=m4 ,n en\gh =k1 & too mu* back slope1 w all[ a man to we> su* a pants1 b ! seat w wr9kle too mu*4 ,contr>y1 too mu* =k may be drawn backw>d to supply a %ort seat1 b su* a pants w nev] hang or feel com=table1 unless ! surplus1 :atev] or :]ev] x is1 is ?r[n to :]e x is want$ by /ret*+ c]ta9 p>ts1 z describ$ else:]e4 ,! same may be said ab\t all[+ clo? = a l>ge wai/1 :i* requires a c]ta9 "p to be all[$ 9 front & a c]ta9 "p at ! top ( side4 ,surplus clo? on ! top ( side1 :i* ought to be 9 front1 w be ?r[n =w>d1 & =m a fold1 />t+ at ! side ( ?igh1 runn+ =w>d1 & :5 a p]son sits d[n1 he w h 8 :ole lap full ( clo?4 ,su* are po9ts :i* nobody w ev] be able to tea* to a c]ta9ty1 or to le>n f ! books4 ,all t c be done by a tea*] is to po9t out causes & effects & approximate am\nts = alt]ation2 & a cutt] mu/ use 8 bra9s to pass judgm5t z to ! am\nt tak5 (f "h1 & giv5 !re1 9 ea* individual case1 & t ! ev] v>y+ =ms ( m5 w require an ev] wat*ful cutt] to fit x ) su* g>m5ts z a *angeable fa%ion f "t to "t requires4 ,le>n+ rules or go+ to cutt+ s*ools & hang+ up a diploma ne> ! cutt+ bo>d don't make successful cutt]s4 ,aft] receiv+ c]ta9 in/ructions1 a cutt] mu/ get ! 8"r hang0 ( x by exp]i5ce1 & if he is a 8natural born0 cutt]1 he c use a horse %oe or a boot jack = 8 rule1 & he w succe$ z easily z a fi% le>ns to swim1 b if he is n a natural born cutt]1 or x may be bett] said1 a natural born ,fitt]1 he mu/ acquire ! 8,art0 by h>d /udy4 ,illu/ration ,,/ripes4 ,if ,pants are cut f /rip$ goods1 ! /ripe %\ld run p>allel ) ! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg41 bo? 9 front & back1 ?\gh on ! =ep>t x may be locat$ an in* sidewise on ! top ( ! wai/2 b ! back "p mu/ h its /ripe on t l9e4 ,?is is important to be> 9 m9d1 p>ticul>ly on l>ge pants1 :i* are to be se5 (t5 ) ! /ripe runn+ inw>d or outw>d4 ,on pla9 goods x makes no diff]5ce :]e ! seams are cut1 b on /rip$ goods ! =ep>t %\ld be cut n>r[ at ! side ( ! ?igh1 & broad at ! side ( ! bottom 9 ord] to run ! /ripe p>allel ) ! side seam4 ,x is q an accompli%m5t to be able to det]m9e ! location ( ! seams on all k9ds ( pants )\t caus+ !m to lose _! balance4 ,! top ( ! front may be cut full wai/ = ! middle sizes1 b ! small] sizes mu/ be cut l>ge en\gh to make room = ! button-hole fly & ! pockets4 ,on l>ge-wai/$ pants1 x may save a good deal ( piec+ to cut ! top ( ! =ep>t broad1 & ev5 z wide z ! angle ( #g deg41 & !n cut ! pockets =w>d indep5d5t ( ! side seam2 b if ! mat]ial is /rip$1 ! /ripe w be too crook$ ov] ! c5t] ( ! front4 ,on ! front1 ! /ripe may run #a 94 to ! side ( ! top ( ! c5t]-l9e on all pants1 b on l>ge wai/s1 x may run #b 94 sidewise on top4 ,on ! back ! /ripe mu/ run ) ! c5t] l9e4 ,on a ve/ ! /ripes %\ld run at "r angles ) ! pockets1 & ne>ly p>allel ) ! front edge4 ,on all cut-a-way coats1 run ! /ripe ) ! front plumb l9e4 ,on ! back1 run x ) ! edge ( ! back tack1 & ) ! edge ( ! side ( ! back skirt z well z ) ! edge ( ! front skirt1 s t ! /ripes fit to ! pleat2 b on /raight coats1 ! /ripes %\ld run p>allel ) ! front edge1 ev5 if ! back edge is a trifle bias4 ,on ! side-piece1 ! /ripe %\ld run ne>ly ) ! back :5 !y are sew$ toge!r1 & at ! same "t ! /ripe ( ! side-piece & skirt bel[ %\ld run ne>ly 9 ! same direction1 or z ne> z possible4 ,on ! sleeve1 ! /ripe %\ld run ) ! front sleeve base4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,coat ,,& ,,ve/ ,,bases ,,& ,,! ,,angle ,,( #ace ,,degrees4 ,scale3 ,"o-half brea/ & #b 941 divid$ into #bj p>ts4 ,! common in* produces brea/ size #ce4 ,bases3 ,see ,fig4 ,i & ,,ii & ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii4 ,fig4 ,i %[s ! angle ( #ace deg4 to be appli$ 9 measur+ ! %\ld] slope4 ,! angle ( #ace deg4 is ! base4 ,! cutt] is to f9d ! v>iation1 :i* is seldom ov] in* high] or l[]1 b ! angle ( #ace deg4 w fit #di 9 e #ej cases4 ,fig4 ,i %[s ! angle ( #ace deg4 ov] ! back z well z ov] ! front4 ,9 ?is position ! two angles ( #ace deg4 cov] two backs & two fronts4 ,! c5t] ( ! back & c5t] ( ! front repres5t ! c5t] ( ea* angle ( #ace deg41 z ! c5t] ( back & front1 a hole be+ cut = ! neck to pass ?r\gh4 ,divid+ ! angle ( #ace deg4 9 ! c5t] ( ! back or c5t] ( ! front leaves half an angle ( #ace deg4 on ea* side ( ! back & ea* side ( ! front4 ,! two halves aga9 unit$ w =m ano!r full angle ( #ace deg4 plac$ on ! body1 z %[n on ,fig4 ,,ii ) ! front l9e runn+ =w>d #ae deg4 ( ! plumb l9e1 & aft] a hole is cut = ! neck ! back l9e c fall d[n to ! c5t] ( ! back1 clos+ into ! top ( ! %\ld]1 = ! %\ld] slope is )9 ! angle ( #ace deg4 ,tak+ away #ae deg4 9 front ( ! plumb l9e leaves #abj deg41 or #b po9ts ( ! circle1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii1 ea* conta9+ #fj deg4 ,! c5t] ( ! #abj deg4 & ! c5t] ( #ace deg4 repres5t a space at ! top ( ! %\ld]s1 :i* may be us$ = ! %\ld] /raps on milit>y or society coats4 ,! %\ld] seam is cut ?r\gh accord+ to /yle or notion1 & ! =ep>t & side connect$ "u ! arm ) ! c5t] ( ! back & ! c5t] ( ! front runn+ p>allel1 z 9 ,dia4 ,i2 or ! back runn+ p>allel ) ! plumb l9e1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,ei!r ! front or back l9e may be us$ z a base1 z 9 ,dia4 ,i1 or ! back l9e & plumb l9e1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,) ! help ( ! diagrams1 ! bases ought to be pla9 to ev]yone4 ,yet ! foll[+ 9 addition might be said3 ,! angle ( #ace deg4 is ( a circle2 cut on ! d\ble1 x w give ( a circle :5 spread ap>t4 ,?ree-f\r?s ( a circle repres5ts #c squ>es1 & a ve/ or coat1 or any g>m5t worn ar\nd ! neck & %\ld]s1 consi/s ( a circle1 or ( #a circle less #a squ>e4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii47 ,:5 ! squ>e is cut away f ! c5t] ( ! circle1 & a hole cut 9 ! c5t] l>ge en\gh = ! neck to pass ?r\gh1 & ! front edges are aga9 connect$1 !n x w fit ! :ole outside ( ! human =m1 except ! sides bel[ ! arm4 ,! squ>e cut out ( ! circle takes away all %\ld] slope4 ,ea* ( ! two backs & fronts requires a r$uction ( #bb deg41 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i2 h5ce1 #d times #bb deg4 w take up ! full am\nt = bo? %\ld]s4 ,if ea* back & ea* front requires a r$uction ( #bb deg41 x w require #de deg4 or half a squ>e to be cut out on ea* side ( ! body1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,iv & ,v4 ,?us ! bases are3 #a/4 ,! full circle4 #b;d4 ,?ree-f\r?s ( a circle4 #c;d4 ,?ree-eigh?s ( a circle1 or #ace deg41 = ! c5t] ( ! back & front4 ,! angle ( #ace deg4 is aga9 divid$ into #d ma9 p>ts1 z #ij1 #de1 #cj & #ae deg41 & may be divid$ into z _m m9or divisions z fancy w admit1 or po9ts to be f\nd 9 ! v>iation ( g>m5ts1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xii-,a4 ,to measure ! %\ld] slope z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i1 is a ?\s& times bett]1 & m reliable1 ?an ! s-call$ upp] & l[] %\ld] measures1 or :atev] su* measures may be call$4 ,b = all t1 actual practice 9 tak+ ?is measure w %[1 t ev5 "h "s guess "w mu/ be done1 & :ile ,i h said else:]e t ! %\ld] slope %\ld be measur$1 & t x c be measur$1 z indicat$ 9 ,fig4 ,i1 yet x is equally true t t measure c be le>n$ to be tak5 by sight1 & su* eye-sight measure may be acquir$ 9 "o week1 or aft] h&l+ & measur+ "o doz5 p]sons4 ,aft] ! eye ( a cutt] has caught ! normal =m ( ! %\ld]s1 8 eyesight w tea* him mo/ all v>iations1 z good z a measure4 ,t measure1 tak5 by eyesight1 or ) any o!r in/rum5t1 mu/ be tak5 ov] a coat ) a good-fitt+ %\ld]1 or bett]1 ov] a good-sett+ %\ld]2 = a %\ld] may fit ! body & /ill may n set well4 ,aga9 ,i mu/ repeat ?is w>n+3 ,be sl[ 9 mak+ *anges1 especially at ! %\ld] seam1 = ,dia4 ,,ii w fit #di out ( e #ej p]sons1 provid+ ! sleeve does n drag ! %\ld] out ( place4 ,! s+le g>m5t1 spread ^u a flat surface1 repres5ts a circle1 less "o squ>e1 or less #ij deg41 or a r$uction ( #de deg4 at ea* %\ld]2 b x mu/ n be suppos$ t ! =m ( ,dia4 ,,xi1 aft] hav+ ! edges ( ! squ>e connect$ aga91 w =m a slope l ! %\ld]s ( a human =m1 t is a slope ( #bb deg4 ,! %\ld] slope is calculat$ at #bb deg41 b t is only on ea* side ( ! body1 & ! c5t] ( ! front1 & ! c5t] ( ! back run d[n m /raight1 & 9 ord] to br+ ! ( a circle1 l ,dia4 ,,xi1 9 h>mony ) ! %\ld]s1 ! c5t]s ( back & front mu/ be pu%$ ne>ly /raight d[n1 & !n ! sides w rise up1 & =m ! slope = ! %\ld]s4 ,if ,dia4 ,,xi is cut f a piece ( /iff pap]1 & ! edges ( ! squ>e are connect$1 & t circle =m$ 9 "o cont9u\s %ape1 l t ( a lamp %ade1 x w =m a slope ( #cj deg41 or ne> t slope1 & corresponds to all diagrams1 ) a squ>e ( #ag1 & ) ! plumb l9e base 9 front1 f :i* base ! %\ld] slope is #cj deg41 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ix4 ,"h x w be notic$ t ! bases1 z adopt$ 9 ?is "w1 mean some?+ m ?an imag9>y l9es4 ,!y mean actual slopes ( ! human =m1 & quantities :i* are p>ts ( ! squ>e or compass1 & :i* in/rum5ts are kn[n & us$ by all civiliz$ nations4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,squ>es ,,( ,,sev5te5 ,,& ,a ,,half ,,& ,,tw5ty4 ,! squ>es ( #ag & #bj1 & l9es #i & #aa1 are bo? p]man5t bases4 ,b ! l9es :i* connect ! back to ! =ep>ts1 or to ! side piece1 or jo9 l9es #i & #aa ov] ! front1 require especial explanation4 ,l9e #i on ! front base ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 & l9e #aa on ! front plumbl9e1 meet 9 ! c5t] ( ! squ>e ( #bj & 9 ! position z indicat$ on ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,l9e #i is brok5 betwe5 ! side-piece & back1 & turn$ #ae deg4 upw>d1 b w be ( ! same space z ! squ>e ( #bj :5 ! side-piece & back is connect$4 ,! squ>e ( #ag is "o-eigh? less ?an ! squ>e ( #bj1 & h>monizes ) ! division ( ! circle1 z %[n on ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,9 bo? ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii1 ! circle has a full diamet] ( #dj numb]s1 & ! triangle z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xii1 has #ce numb]s on ea* l9e1 mak+ an equi-lat]al triangle4 ,"o-half ( ! circle is us$ z a squ>e ( #bj1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xi4 ,"o-half ( ! triangle is us$ z a squ>e ( #ag z 9 ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,! squ>e ( #bj repres5ts ! am\nt us$ = ! :ole half ve/1 seam & surplus includ$1 & ! squ>e ( #ag repres5ts ! half brea/ measure4 ,! correct comb9ation ( ! squ>e ( #bj & #ag1 c only be us$ on a ve/ ) "o seam 9 ! c5t] ( ! back1 & "o seam "u ! arm4 ,on coats ! squ>e is enl>g$ on acc\nt ( m seams & o!r reasons else:]e expla9$2 b = all t1 ! squ>es ( #bj & #ag are a true guide = all coats4 ,x w be se5 t ! squ>es ( #bj & #ag1 z us$ 9 ?is book1 are n imag9>y l9es1 b bas$ ^u a sci5tific calculation f ! c5t] ( a circle or ! corn] ( a squ>e1 :i* are us$ by ! :ole civiliz$ _w z po9ts1 or fix$ facts4 ,by fur!r exam9ation ( ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii1 x w be f\nd t all ! ess5tial po9ts necess>y 9 cutt+ a ve/ c be f\nd )9 a circle1 & )\t us+ a scale--all ( :i* is fur!r expla9$ 9 ! article entitl$1 8,sci5tific ,calculation40 ,ano!r reason :y l9es #i & #aa on ! front bases are adopt$1 is ! foll[+3 ,l9es #i & #aa meet 9 ! c5t] ( ! squ>e ( #bj4 ,l9e #i runs at "r angles ) ! c5t] ( ! front4 ,l9e #ad on ! back runs at "r angles ) ! c5t] ( back4 ,:5 ! g>m5t is ^u ! body1 bo? run 9 ! same direction1 are 9 _! natural positions1 & on a squ>e ( #bj4 ,= ! reason t ! ve/ is cut (f bel[ ! wai/1 x c be cut on ! squ>e ( #bj )\t piec+ ! patt]n4 ,b on a coat ?is _c be done )\t piec+ ! patt]n1 & 9 ord] to obta9 a draft or a patt]n1 )\t lap or piec+1 ! squ>e ( #bj is trans=m$ into an angle ( #ae deg41 :i* conta9s ! squ>e ( #ag z = a ve/1 to :i* is add$ "o-half = "o extra seam1 & :i* "o-half m causes ! squ>es ( a frock coat to be #ah & #bj4 ,& = reasons expla9$ fur!r on 9 ?is article1 & 9 ,dia4 ,,iii1 a ?ree-seam$ sack mu/ h ! same squ>es z t ( a frock coat ( five seams4 ,! foll[+ po9ts mu/ be well obs]v$3 ,dia4 ,,ii has a squ>e ( #ah1 or half an in* extra on ! plumb l9e base1 :i* half an in* is all[$ = "o extra seam4 ,! squ>e ( #ag w\ld answ] ! same purpose if ea* side piece & ea* =ep>t 0 all[$ "o extra seam2 b ?is w\ld cause ! patt]n to be piec$1 or all[ance w\ld h to be made = "o seam1 :i* w always be f\nd tr\blesome1 & = ?is reason ! squ>e is enl>g$ to #ah4 ,b1 to be m def9ite1 ! squ>e %\ld be #ag & half an in* = all sizes1 because if an in* is all[$ = a seam1 ?is seam requires ! same = all sizes4 ,p]haps in* w d ! same1 or maybe bett] = a snug fit1 p>ticul>ly = f9e "w1 :]e ( an in* is amply suffici5t = a seam2 b ,i call x an in* = ! reason t ( an in* m or less 9 an entire coat is no?+1 p>ticul>ly :5 we mu/ admit t no two cutt]s w take ! same measure1 & t v few cutt]s are able to take ! same brea/ measure twice ) ! same result1 if done s 9 us+ a blank tape4 ,?\gh ! squ>e ( #ah w result 9 a squ>e ( #bj1 we f9d t if we obs]ve ,dia4 ,,ii correctly1 ! back squ>e1 :i* ends at po9t #ae1 on ! c5t] ( back1 s9ks bel[ l9e #aa 9 front1 & becomes l>g] & consequ5tly a r$uction is made at t l9e betwe5 ! back & side piece1 9 ord] to re-e/abli% ! squ>e ( #bj4 ,aga91 if we obs]ve ,dia4 ,,iii1 or ! comb9ation ( frock & sack 7& ! ve/ z well17 we f9d t by turn+ ! sidepiece =w>d at ! wai/ x w turn backw>d ab\t in* at ! %\ld] blade1 & al?\gh ! top ( ! sidepiece & back lap 1 ! squ>e rema9s #ah = a ?ree-seam$ sack coat1 ! same z = a frock4 ,! fact t ,i did n obs]ve ?is simple po9t at ! beg9n+1 b made ! squ>e ( a ?ree-seam$ sack less ?an a frock coat1 caus$ me to devote ye>s 9 mak+ alt]ations4 ,dia4 ,,iii is ! be/ comb9ation ( frock1 sack & ve/1 :i* ,i h be5 able to secure 9 #aj ye>s ( dilig5t /udy4 ,?\gh ! ve/ is n %[n on x1 because too _m l9es spoil ! illu/ration1 b anybody may obs]ve ! sam5ess 9 ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,n[1 suppos+ ! ve/ to be put 9 ,dia4 ,,iii1 we simply r$uce its squ>e "u ! arm to make x #ag & place ! height ( back at #ad4 ,! comb9ation places ! diff]5t backs at ! foll[+ height above l9e #i4 ,frocks at #ad1 ve/s at #ad1 & sacks at #ac4 ,! squ>es ( #ah & #bj are1 ( c\rse1 = a coat1 b ?is does n de/roy ! pr9ciple ( cutt+ a ve/ ov] ! same patt]n1 simply r$uc+ x in* 9 wid? "u ! arm1 & cutt+ ! top ( ! back l[]1 or #c1 z %[n 9 ! ,ve/ ,dia4 ,nei!r ! squ>e ( #bj nor ! squ>e ( #ag1 nor ! angle ( #ae deg41 nor any o!r angle or squ>e1 w fit ! body precisely1 ei!r ( :i* mu/ be adju/$ to ! requirem5ts ( ! =m2 b :5 we "k :at a c]ta9 squ>e or angle repres5ts1 & h[ !y h>monize ) ! slopes ( ! body1 we c v easily d$uct or add to1 z ! case may require4 ,n[1 al?\gh c]ta9 g>m5ts require m or less 9 ! squ>e1 ,i w1 9 comp>+1 always m5tion ! squ>es ( #ag & #bj z on a ve/1 = ! reason t l9e #aa meets l9e #i at its c5t]--t is1 at ! c5t] ( ! squ>e ( #bj--;f :i* po9t all calculations are made = turn+ or *ang+ ! l9es ov] ! back4 ,! squ>e ( #ag1 ) ! angle ( #ae deg4 atta*$ 9 front1 produces bo? squ>es #ag & #bj on ?is p>ticul> spot1 ?\gh ! squ>e ( #bj is brok5 on l9e #i2 & )9 ! squ>es ( #ag & #bj all calculations are made 9 ! article on 8,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs40 ,by ! t]ms3 squ>e ( #ag1 or #ah1 or #bj1 etc41 ,i mean to say t ! di/ance f ! c5tre ( ! back to a c]ta9 base 9 front is su* a di/ance4 ,x may be t if ,i %\ld say3 a "r angle1 s & s f> f back to front1 w\ld be bett] gramm>1 b ,i ?9k1 a squ>e ( s & s mu* w be fully z well1 & may be bett] und]/ood by ! majority ( cutt]s & tailors4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,diamet] ,,( ,,bo? ,,%\ld]s ,,f ,,side ,,to ,,side4 ,?is article 0 writt5 z long z t5 ye>s ago1 & ,i h (t5 ?\ght to omit x1 b h come to ! conclusion t x is wor?y ( a place1 & 9 fact1 ,i may build bett] ?an ,i expect4 ,dia4 ,v1 ,,vi1 ,,ix1 & all o!rs ) a squ>e ( #ag repres5t ! diamet] ( ! %\ld]s f side to side1 ei!r on ! half1 z ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi1 or ! full1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ix & o!rs4 ,fig4 ,i repres5ts ! full diamet]1 b cut 9 two at ! c5t] ( ! body4 ,! wid? ( ! %\ld]s may be measur$1 b ord9>ily t measure may dep5d m ^u ! condition ( ! g>m5t ov] :i* x is to be tak51 ?an ^u ! body itself4 ,z a rule1 t measure %\ld be tak5 only = extremely n>r[ or extremely broad %\ld]s1 & ev5 !n1 !re mu/ be a good deal ( guess "w4 ,z long z we all[ ! wid? ( ! %\ld]s #i at #fj deg4 we w nev] miss ! m>k f size #ce d[n to ! small] sizes4 ,:5 we come to size #dj we h en\gh ) #i to #i4 ,=ty-?ree is pl5ty wide ) scant #i1 & size #ej is l>ge en\gh ) #h4 ,"h is a diff]5ce ( numb] on ea* side ( ! coat1 9 #be sizes1 & t calculation c be dep5d$ ^u4 ,! wid? ( ! %\ld]s does n gr[ 9 proportion to ! circumf]5ce ( ! brea/1 & 9 cases ( d\bt z to h[ mu* to all[ at #fj deg41 x is bett] to all[ in* too little ?an in* too mu*4 ,a %\ld] :i* hangs too f> ov] to ! arm1 & :i* is (t5 notic$ on l>ge sizes1 is worse ?an a %\ld] :i* is too n>r[4 ,aga91 a broad %\ld] requires a scant sleeve head1 :ile a n>r[ %\ld] c /& m fullness on ! sleeve head4 ,b ,i h />t$ out to describe ! %\ld] ( a man1 z !y may be n>r[ or broad1 & 9 ord] to be q pla91 ,i w take up size #ce1 & use ! t]m in*es1 = ?is p>ticul> article4 ,on a draft ( a size #ce ! wid? ( "o %\ld]1 f back to side1 is ab\t #h 941 & :i* is in*es less ?an ! half squ>e ( #ag1 b ! in*es are us$ up = seams4 ,on top ( ! %\ld]s1 ! body is ne>ly flat1 bo? across ! back & front1 & x is q flat on a great _m p]sons1 b = our purpose all may be call$ entirely flat1 & t "p c be measur$ ) a /raight edge :5 ! coat is on ! body4 ,on ?is "p1 & above1 ! coat mu/ sw+ ! same z a piece ( clo? w sw+ on a /raight pole4 ,if t "p ( a coat fits nicely1 a great _m o!r faults are usually =giv51 b if ! %\ld] breaks some:]e1 compla9t w be made4 ,x w be se5 by ?is1 t ! squ>e ( #ag is n an imag9>y quantity1 b t x is 9 actual h>mony ) ! %\ld]s1 ! same z ! angle ( #ae deg4 is 9 h>mony ) ! =w>d slope ( ! c5t] ( front4 ,!re is ! squ>e = a regul> "p ( ! =m1 & ! angle ( #ae deg4 is = a irregul> "p4 ,on ! l9es ( ! squ>e ( #ag a coat or ve/ c be fold$ up flat1 & ?is c be/ be se5 on a ve/1 :i* has no sleeves to h9d] x f fold+ flat4 ,a good-fitt+ ve/ c be fold$ up1 on ! squ>e ( #ag1 & laid on a flat table1 & x may lie !re = ages )\t wr9kl+1 b c n be s fold$ on any o!r squ>e4 ,! angle ( #ae deg41 or ! front "p w always run =w>d ( ! c5t] ( ! back1 :5 fold$ up4 ,:5 a g>m5t is put on ! body1 x has to p]=m two di/9ct motions1 & ! c5t] ( ! back mu/ be consid]$ ! h+e on :i* ! coat sw+s1 j z a door sw+s on its h+es4 ,f ! c5t] ( ! back ! g>m5t is swung sidewise1 & locates f back to side1 n f back to front1 & = ?is reason mu/ be fitt$ on /raight l9es 9 ! back & 9 ! front4 ,f ! side ( ! back1 ! g>m5t is swung =w>d to ! side ( front1 & bo? side ( back & side ( front may be call$ h+es aga91 because ! body is really flat betwe5 all ^! po9ts1 & f ! side ( front ! g>m5t is swung aga9 to ! c5t] ( ! front1 :]e x runs up & d[n p>allel ) ! c5t] ( ! back4 ,:ile x makes ?is motion x loses no?+ 9 l5g?1 b its :ole wid? ( #bj 94 w be divid$ betwe5 ! two half diamet]s ( ! %\ld]s sidewise1 & betwe5 ! diamet] f back to front4 ,! upp] "p1 or t portion ( a g>m5t :i* is locat$ on top ( ! %\ld]s1 mu/ p]=m a diff]5t motion4 ,:ile ! l[] "p sw+s ar\nd ! body 9 a circle1 ! upp] p>ts move on /raight l9es1 on :i* ! :ole back is swung =w>d & ! :ole front is swung backw>d until !y bo? meet4 ,! %\ld]s lose 9 l5g?1 b no?+ 9 wid?1 :i* rema9s ! same on ! body z x 0 on ! flat table4 ,a g>m5t mu/ sw+1 & balance itself on ! diamet] ( ! %\ld]s1 & !re a coat mu/ fit ! body1 & p]haps ?is is ! only place :]e a g>m5t %\ld actually fit1 z f> z ! conception ( an actual fit goes1 9 g>m5t fitt+4 ,b n[1 we mu/ consid] a broad & a n>r[ %\ld]1 & obs]ve ! results ( putt+ ! same coat on bo? =ms3 ,! c5t] ( ! back c n give1 & ! clo? mu/ be ?r[n ov] ! %\ld]s =w>d1 & 9 a circle2 & if any?+ is 9 ! way :i* takes up m clo?1 l a broad] %\ld]1 :i* ?r[s x sidewise1 ! front w be ! los]1 t is1 ! front w be too small4 ,"h may be f\nd "o ( ! reasons :y "s m5 require a l>g] coat 9 proportion to _! brea/ measure ?an o!rs4 ,! broad] %\ld] requires a l>g] coat ar\nd ! sides & armhole ?an ! n>r[ %\ld]1 because ! broad %\ld] ?r[s m clo? 9 t direction1 b ! measure ar\nd ! solid *e/ indicates no?+ ( t k9d4 ,let u suppose we h be=e u a man to be measur$ = a coat1 & :5 we obs]ve him1 we make up our m9ds t he measures #dj in*es brea/4 ,we draw ! tape & x records #ch4 ,we measure aga9 ) ! same result4 ,next we take ! pro( measures1 & we take ! s-call$ upp] & l[] %\ld] measure1 %ort measures1 long measures1 & :at n measures1 !n we add & subtract aga91 accord+ to our le>n+1 & !n we cut ! coat v c>efully1 s t e fraction ( ! pro( measures con=m to our l9es2 & :5 ! coat is done & ! cu/om] puts x on1 behold6 x is too small all ov]1 ! coat is ?r[n onto ! %elf1 & aft]w>d sold = half price1 not)/&+ t x 0 cut promptly to ! balance measures4 ,on a n>r[ %\ld] we obs]ve ! contr>y results z to ! fit1 & we w always f9d t a n>r[-%\ld]$ p]son c we> a small] coat ar\nd ! arms & ! back4 ,9 reg>d to a n>r[ %\ld]1 we may consid] ! =m ( an erect & full-brea/$ male & t ( a female4 ,z f> z ! upp] "p ( ! body is conc]n$1 !y mu/ bo? be treat$ on ! same pr9ciple4 ,accord+ to _! brea/ measures1 bo? ne$ a small] coat ar\nd ! arms & back & a l>g] portion mu/ be all[$ 9 front ( ! brea/4 ,/rip a female's brea/s1 & %e w measure sev]al in*es less1 & t am\nt has to be tak5 (f 9 front1 & t =m w correspond to ! =m ( an av]age male =m4 ,n[1 to fit a female ) a coat draft = a male1 we mu/ use a #cd patt]n = a #cf brea/1 & all[ #a 94 ov] ! front ( ea* half g>m5t1 & r$uce1 by gores1 :atev] ! wai/ is small] 9 front & bel[ ! fulle/ "p ( ! brea/4 ,a coat = a full-brea/$ male mu/ be treat$ on ! same pr9ciple1 only less prom95t4 ,i d n claim to "k mu* ab\t cutt+ & fitt+ g>m5ts = females4 ,t takes q ano!r calculation1 b if ,i w\ld />t 9 to-day to le>n to fit g>m5ts = females ,i w\ld />t out by tak+ a draft = a man's coat = my guide1 & use a scale ( #b to #c sizes less = ! female2 all[ #a to #a 94 at ! front ( ea* half brea/ & r$uce at lea/ #a 94 at ! wai/ bel[ ea* brea/4 ,i w\ld n *ange ! %\ld]s1 nor ! holl[ ( ! back1 except ! location ( ! seams1 b ,i w\ld g to "w & f9d ! normal proportion betwe5 ! wai/ & ! hips ( a female1 & ?us produce spr+ en\gh ov] ! hips1 :i* nature has wisely provid$ v l>ge = females4 ,! c5t] ( back & front ,i w\ld cut ne>ly on ! same plan z ,dia4 ,,ii1 only m prom95t beh9d4 ,i ?r[ ! above out z a h9t = cutt]s :o may g to female tailor+4 ,! "t w soon come :5 m5 w pay m att5tion to cutt+ & fitt+ female g>m5ts because x w pay bett]1 & "s "o may possibly be b5efit$ by ! above sugge/ions4 ,kn[+ :at ,i "k to-day1 ,i w\ld1 if ,i 7 fifte5 ye>s old aga91 or ev5 tw5ty1 g to "w & le>n ,,female ,,tailor+4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,angle ,,( ,,fifte5 ,,degrees ,,= ,,coats ,,& ,,ve/s4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,xiii47 ,if we take a squ>e piece ( pap] & encircle ! body f "u ! arm to ! wai/ x w fit p]fectly1 al?\gh1 :5 on ! body1 ! front w be #ae deg4 high] ?an ! back2 & if we want to =m a level wai/1 we mu/ atta* a piece to ! bottom ( ! front1 am\nt+ to #ae deg41 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i & ,,iv4 ,if we ext5d t piece ( pap]1 or clo?1 d[n to ! side ( ! ?igh & seat1 we mu/ cut x op5 at ! side ( ! hip & bel[ ! wai/1 & ins]t a piece to accommodate ! spread ( ! body1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i4 ,b ! spread ( ! g>m5t all ar\nd ! l[] body c\ld be made bett] if two cuts 7 made--"o at ! side & ! o!r ne> ! back--repres5t+ ! front & ! back seam ( ! frock coat sidepiece4 ,dia4 ,i repres5ts ! body ( a coat1 t is1 f arm to hip1 9 a position :i* x has to assume1 :5 ^u ! body1 & x mu/ be obs]v$ t a g>m5t1 spread on a flat table1 c only be 9 h>mony ) ! body at "o po9t2 all o!r po9ts mu/ diff]1 & c only be correctly locat$ by _! true relation :5 on ! body4 ,?is1 ,i claim1 is ne>ly ! natural position ( ! g>m5t :5 ^u ! body1 & w\ld require no seam at all bel[ ! arms & above ! wai/4 ,if ?is piece 0 n wide en\gh we c\ld enl>ge x to ! size desir$1 & :]ev] necess>y1 & w\ld make no diff]5ce 9 ! fit s long z ! seams are all[$ =4 ,:5 tak5 (f ! body x w fit ! flat table j z well z x did ! =m ( a man4 ,9 ?is position ( a coat1 z on ,dia4 ,i1 or a ve/1 z on ,dia4 ,,iv1 x makes b little diff]5ce if ! side seams are cut a trifle m =w>d or backw>d--! fit w be ! same4 ,i !re=e claim t all *anges 9 ! seams1 z ! ve/1 frock & sack coats1 mu/ be made :ile 9 position1 z 9 ,dia4 ,i & ,,iv1 or at lea/ mu/ be made on l9es #i & #ad1 etc41 :5ev] ! back is oblig$ to assume an unnatural position1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii--all ( :i* is fur!r expla9$ 9 ! article on 8,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs40 ,b we mu/ g back to ! angle ( #ae deg4 ,if we take a squ>e piece ( clo?1 repres5t+ ! brea/ measure ( a #ce coat1 we w h #ag in*es ea* way4 ,if we add an angle ( #ae deg4 to "o ( ! sides x w give u an angle ( #ae deg41 al?\gh ! top po9t is lo/1 b w\ld =m l ! upp] "p ( ,dia4 ,,xiii4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 spreads ( its l5g?2 consequ5tly x spreads #e 94 9 #bj1 z se5 9 all diagrams 9 ?is "w1 ) ! front angle ( #ae deg4 atta*$4 ,l9e #bj is locat$ at ! top ( ! hips1 :]e ! body spreads consid]ably1 & ! hip measure may be consid]$ z l>ge z ! brea/ measure1 ?\gh 9 diff]5t positions1 z ! hips spread m sidewise4 ,! front l9e ( ! atta*$ angle ( #ae deg4 is1 at ! same "t1 ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 z well z ! front l9e ( ! squ>e ( #bj4 ,n[ obs]ve1 t 9 *ang+ ! l9es on ! squ>e ( #bj 94 into a squ>e ( #ag1 ) ! angle ( #ae deg4 atta*$ 9 front1 ! front does n *ange a p>ticle1 b ! back1 at ! wai/1 is deta*$ & ?r[n backw>d & upw>d1 becom+ l>g] at ! wai/ & small] on top1 & =m+ ! angle ( #ae deg4--all ! spread be+ t[>d ! hips & seat1 repres5t+ a g>m5t )\t lap & )\t gore at ! hips & seat1 & )\t any wai/ suppression4 ,bel[ ! front ( ! wai/ ! body rec$es1 & ! front ( ! angle ( #ae deg4 is cut (f accord+ly1 & runs /raight d[n ) ! plumb l9e1 z %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,b ?is is n all4 ,! angle ( #ae deg41 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 repres5ts a /raight b po9t$ or funnel-%ap$ piece ( clo?1 has its prop] size at ! bottom ( ! armhole1 at ! hips & seat1 & front ( ! *e/ & wai/1 b is too l>ge at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ above ! hips & seat2 & 9 ?is position gores mu/ be tak5 out to imitate ! holl[s ( ! wai/ at ! side & back4 ,n all is tak5 out1 b only a portion1 j to %[ ! outl9e ( ! =m2 & if ev]y?+ else is well proportion$1 in* m or less clo? at ! wai/ w be ( little consequ5ce4 ,x is ( m importance to asc]ta9 ! dep? ( ! seat & holl[ ( ! wai/1 s we may "k :]e to run out ! gores1 or :]e to make x ! mo/ holl[4 ,l9e #ag on ! front plumb l9e may be consid]$ ! holl[ ( ! wai/ = ! normal =m1 & ! seat may be locat$ at #bg or #bh1 b on extremely %ort or slim p]sons ^! po9ts %\ld always be measur$ ) c>e4 ,9 cutt+ accord+ to ! rules adopt$ 9 ?is "w1 ! outside ( ! elb[s c always be dep5d$ ^u = ! location ( l9e #bj1 & ! holl[ ( ! wai/ is #b numb]s high]1 all to be measur$ f top ( back4 ,= ! seat po9t1 take ! l>ge/ "p or ! upp] po9t ( ! ?igh bone1 :i* corresponds to ! wri/1 ! arm hang+ d[n4 ,if ! half brea/ c be fitt$ ) brea/ measure & #b 941 all seams includ$ except :at ! lapel takes up1 ! hip c be fitt$ ) hip measure & #b 941 all seams includ$ except ! lap ( ! buttons & button-boles1 because ! hip requires no?+ 9 consequ5ce ( expansion1 z ! *e/ does4 ,if ! hip measure is ! same z ! brea/1 say #ag 94 = ! half coat1 !n x foll[s t ! hip1 at ! wai/ seam1 may require #ai 94 & ab\t 94 = lap ( button-holes & buttons1 mak+ #bj 9 all4 ,?is mu/ be ! result1 no matt] if ! draft is made l ,dia4 ,i or ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,ii x w be se5 t :atev] ! hips spread at l9e #bj is aga9 r$uc$ by ! gore 9 ! c5t] ( ! =ep>t1 z well z by a small r$uction f ! c5t] 9 front4 ,x %\ld be obs]v$1 t1 al?\gh ! brea/ & hip may measure ! same1 ! =m is diff]5t at ! hip ?an at ! brea/4 ,! front is compress$ & spreads sidewise at ! hips1 j l ,dia4 ,i4 ,obs]ve t ! squ>e ( #ag & ! front angle ( #ae deg4 measure #bb 94 = size #ce1 at l9e #bj2 & x foll[s t #b 94 may be r$uc$ on & along l9e #bj4 ,dia4 ,,ii1 & all o!rs laid out 9 ! squ>e ( #ag1 are n only bas$ on ! above calculation1 b are f\nd$ ^u ye>s ( trial1 & virtually ! calculation is made f facts s obta9$4 ,?is is also ! way 9 :i* all ! o!r diagrams h be5 produc$4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 w fit ! normal =m at ! arms1 at ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat1 at ! side ( ! ?igh1 & ! front ( ! *e/1 b is too wide at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ beh9d1 & /&s (f bel[ ! front ( ! wai/1 & mu/ be r$uc$ by gores z %[n4 ,on ! back1 x mu/ be consid]$ on a plumb l9e1 spread+ sidewise & =w>d4 ,! trifl+ spread bel[ ! side ( ! ?igh is tak5 (f by ! gore 9 ! c5t] ( a frock coat =ep>t1 & is turn$ =w>d betwe5 ! skirt & =ep>t2 :ile on a sack coat x is p>tly cut (f betwe5 ! back & side seam1 :i* is fur!r =w>d ?an ! frock coat skirt seam1 & by :i* ! gore 9 ! c5t] ( a frock coat =ep>t is balanc$4 ,n[1 9 ?is position1 x might be reasonable to make calculations = wai/ r$uction by comp>+ brea/1 wai/ & seat measures1 b z ! wai/ is n to be fitt$ at all x w\ld be useless unless we c\ld take ! measure j z wide z we want$ ! coat at ! wai/1 :i* _c be done satisfactorily2 !re=e1 we take ! av]age1 & cut out ! wai/ 9 proportion to ! brea/ measure4 ,b x c be done only aft] ! angle ( #ae deg4 is e/abli%$1 & recogniz$ z a base1 & und]/ood1 accord+ to ! pr9ciples adopt$ 9 ?is book4 ,b ,i mu/ aga9 call ! att5tion ( ! read] to ! plumb base on ! back4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 is bas$ ^u a plumb l9e on ! c5t] ( ! back1 bo? %\ld]s & ! seat t\*+ said l9e1 & ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ae deg4 runn+ =w>d & away f ! body bel[ ! pit ( ! /oma*1 :ile ! back runs /raight d[n1 z a coat mu/ hang1 z is %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,! back plumb l9e is n giv5 9 ,fig4 ,,ii1 because x w\ld int]f]e ) ! diagram above4 ,i d n claim t all m5 walk 9 t position1 b tell a cu/om] to /& be=e y = measurem5t & he w usually assume t position4 ,9 walk+1 a man is incl9$ to lean ! upp] portion ( ! body =w>d m or less2 b lean+ =w>d or backw>d ! l9e f ! %\ld]s to ! seat is c>ri$ along1 & ! base w rema9 ! same f ! %\ld]s to ! seat1 & 9 a l>ge majority ( cases no att5tion ne$ be giv5 to alt]+ ei!r back or front2 b !re are extremes1 & ^! d require a *ange !re4 ,a =m may be /oop+1 or erect1 b /ill may c>ry ! %\ld]s & seat on a plumb l9e4 ,su* =ms require no *ange at ! wai/1 b at ! neck only2 & a cutt] mu/ always obs]ve su* positions1 because no s-call$ balance-measure w indicate x4 ,b !re is ! s-call$ 8sway-back10 :o c>ries 8 %\ld]s way back ( ! seat4 ,su* a =m requires 8 coat r$uc$ at ! wai/1 n betwe5 ! back & sidepiece1 b betwe5 ! sidepiece & =ep>t1 unless a l>ge wai/ requires or takes up t space aga94 ,we (t5 see l>ge-wai/$ & always erect =ms ) _! coats too tight ov] ! back tack1 because ! wai/ is n l>ge en\gh = ! hips4 ,h[ mu* ! r$uction at ! side %\ld be mu/ always be det]m9$ by ! judgm5t ( ! cutt]2 b an outlet at ! side ( ! =ep>t is m important ?an any:]e else--x w nev] d any h>m & may become v h&y sometimes :5 x is lea/ ?\ght to be necess>y4 ,:5 a coat sw+s (f beh9d x c easily be br\ght to ! body by /ret*+ ! :ole back & back ( side seam1 f ! %\ld]-blade d[nw>d2 b :5 x is too close !re1 m wid? mu/ be obta9$ by ! help ( ! outlet at ! side ( ! wai/1 & by /ret*+ ! sidepiece d[nw>d on ! =ep>t1 9 ord] to =ce ! wid? backw>d4 ,coats :i* appe> too close at ! back tack are usually s because ! hips h n clo? en\gh1 :5 an outlet is v h&y aga92 b ?is seam %\ld always be sew$ by h&1 because a ma*9e-sew$ seam w %[ :5 let out4 ,all outlets ar\nd ! neck d m h>m ?an good2 & if !y are left on1 = ! purpose ( try+ on1 !y %\ld be cut away be=e ! coll> is sew$ on1 especially on heavy goods4 ,a coat t is too loose ar\nd ! neck c always be br\ght to ! body by tak+ up ! %\ld] seam1 :i* w r$uce ! l5g? ( ! =ep>t1 & leaves ! back correspond+ly long]4 ,! normal =m repres5ts a slope ( #ae deg4 =w>d f neck to wai/1 b a l>ge-wai/$ =m may repres5t an angle ( #bj deg41 & consequ5tly su* a =m requires an addition 9 front ( wai/ & outside ( ! front base2 & ,i f9d t a l>ge-wai/$ =m requires f #a to #a 94 extra all[ances 9 front ( wai/ on a ve/4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 measures #e numb]s at l9e #bj1 h5ce e #c deg4 measure #a numb] at ! po9t4 ,e corpul5t individual %\ld be measur$ accord+ to ! front slope ( ! *e/4 ,i "k x is an odd measure = a beg9n]1 b a little practice w make x pla9 "w1 & x w pay well4 ,i d n claim t ! measure mu/ be tak5 absolutely correct1 b x %\ld be ne>ly s1 s t an idea c be =m$ ( :at a p]son may want4 ,! angle ( #ae deg41 ) a wid? ( brea/1 or its equival5t1 z #ag numb]s = a ve/1 or #ah numb]s = a coat1 at ! />t+ po9t ( a g>m5t1 :i* is ! angle ( #ace deg4 )9 ! angle ( #ae deg41 z se5 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii1 conta9s ! prop] spread =1 & ar\nd ! hips & seat1 z requir$ = a coat4 ,= wai/ suppression at ! sides & ! back1 gores are cut out1 accord+ to notion or /yle1 or accord+ to ! nature ( ! g>m5t4 ,x mu/ be rememb]$ t ! position ( ! %\ld]s & ! :ole =ep>t is ! same 9 all diagrams 9 ?is "w1 & t ! *ange f ! squ>e ( #bj to ! squ>e ( #ag is made by *ang+ ! back1 or ! sidepiece1 or bo?4 ,n[ x w be se51 t if ei!r ( ! back or sidepiece is mov$1 b kept toge!r on _! connect+ po9ts1 z on l9es #i & #ad1 etc41 ! gores mu/ *ange1 z well z ! height ( ! back above ! bottom ( ! armscye & on l9e #i ov] ! front4 ,?us ! back or ! sidepiece may be laid 9 any conceivable %ape1 & 9 any conceivable squ>e1 & ! fit w be ! same1 ?\gh all po9ts assume a diff]5t relation to ! />t+ po9t4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 is "h adopt$ because x con=ms to ! slope ( ! body & n z a pet idea1 & x is also adopt$ = ! reason t a g>m5t c be laid out 9 x1 )\t piec+ ! g>m5t1 or cutt+ out unreasonable am\nts z gores4 ,dia4 ,,ii %[s ! :ole coat on ! angle ( #ae deg41 & ! gores ar\nd ! wai/ are = a normal =m ( a size #cf1 t is1 ! wai/ suppression is "o-n9? "p ( ! :ole brea/1 or ab\t #b 94 9 bo? gores ar\nd ! side & ! back1 on ! half coat4 ,?is is ! r$uction )9 ! angle ( #ae deg41 :5 on ! flat table1 b :5 sew$ toge!r1 ! g>m5t w =m l ,dia4 ,i1 or ne>ly s1 & :5 9 t position1 ! seams ar\nd ! back ( ! wai/ may be *ang$ "s1 )\t de/roy+ ! balance1 b z a g5]al ?+ ! seam betwe5 ! back & sidepiece %\ld n be tamp]$ )1 unless !re are good reasons1 su* z /yle1 or = erect =ms1 :]e ! fold+ up ( ! sidepiece w contract ! gore betwe5 ! back & ! front skirts or close x up altoge!r1 or 9 extreme cases produce a lap ov] ! seat4 ,full] wai/s are usually ( erect =ms1 & = su* ! "u-arm cut may be r$uc$ = ! l>g] wai/1 & ! gore betwe5 side & back may be r$uc$ at & bel[ ! tack4 ,t cut1 or gore1 betwe5 ! back & ! sidepieces w always be a difficult ?+ to h&le1 = ! reason t x is a curv$ gore4 ,if we w\ld cut ! back ( ,dia4 ,,ii #a 94 wid] ov] ! blade on "o coat1 & cut ano!r "o #a 94 small] at ! same po9t1 )\t *ang+ ! l5g?s ( ! back above ! armhole1 we w\ld spoil bo? ( !m1 unless we "k h[ to make ?+s "r aga9 by sew+ ! p>ts toge!r4 ,on ! broad back1 ) a /raight] seam1 ! sidepiece w\ld h to be reasonably /ret*$ ov] ! blade1 or ! back held full1 :i* is ! same1 :ile ! m n>r[ & m curv$ back mu/ be sew$ on ! sidepiece r close1 ?\gh x w nev] d to hold ! sidepiece full1 or /ret* ! back !re4 ,dia4 ,,ii is s calculat$ t bo? sidepiece & back mu/ be sew$ on ev5 ov] ! curve1 above l9e #i1 & ! be/ ( tailors w sometimes be compell$ to ba/e !m toge!r sev]al times m ?an !y l1 be=e !y get !m "r1 or ! way x is int5d$4 ,"h we c f9d ! reasons :y c]ta9 p>ts c be work$ ! v contr>y1 & bo? ways w fit1 & = ?is reason a newly-arriv$ j\r4 %\ld be ?or\ghly in/ruct$ by ! cutt]1 z to h[ ?+s mu/ be put toge!r accord+ to 8 cutt+1 & ! cutt] himself %\ld be a good tailor1 or at lea/ he %\ld "k h[ x is to be made1 ev5 if he c n d ! sew+4 ,a cutt] :o is a ?or\gh tailor himself w always be a bett] cutt] ?an ! "o :o only kn[s h[ to cut1 all o!r ?+s be+ equal4 ,! angle ( #ae deg41 z us$ 9 ?is "w1 is calculat$ = ! normal =m ( a male4 ,males ) extra l>ge hips require m spread t[>d ! side ( ! hips1 & mu/ be plac$ "u ! head ( abnormal =ms4 ,! normal =m ( a female is v l>ge ov] ! hips1 & ! angle ( #ae deg4 w\ld n produce spread en\gh = a female4 ,x is true1 ?is "w has no?+ to d ) ! cutt+ ( female g>m5ts1 b ,i ?9k x important en\gh to po9t out ! above diff]5ce betwe5 ! male & female =m1 = x may become ( use to "s ( my read]s4 ,soon ! "t w come1 &1 9 fact1 x is n[ & has be5 = "s "t1 :5 m5 w cut & sup]9t5d ! mak+ ( f9e female g>m5ts1 j z females n[ make ! common g>m5ts = m54 ,!re are millions 9 x4 ,! angle ( #ae deg4 is tak5 z a /&>d 9 ?is "w1 because x is easily f\nd by spread+ two l9es "o-f\r? ( _! l5g?4 ,x is also a common division ( ! squ>e--"o-six?4 ,x is also ! tw5ty-f\r? "p ( a circle4 ,x is n an unkn[n quantity1 b some?+ recogniz$ & ackn[l$g$ by ! :ole _w4 ,n[1 if anyone cont5ds t a l>g] angle1 or a small] "o1 is bett]1 ,i w n f9d fault1 b ,i w\ld l to see ! pro(4 ,! angles1 z laid d[n 9 ?is "w1 are a /&>d--some?+ rational to g by--! same z a p\nd or a y>d4 ,our groc] nev] sells an actual p\nd ( c(fee1 nor does our dry goods m]*ant sell u an actual y>d ( calico1 & we all "k x1 b we are satisfi$ ) x because we c d no bett]4 ,x s]ves ! purpose4 ,i claim t two angles ( #ae deg41 =m$ 9 funnel-l %ape1 & connect$ at ! wide/ "p l ,dia4 ,,xiii1 w at lea/ come ne>] to ! %ape ( ! human =m ?an a squ>e piece4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,squ>e ,,& ,,! ,,circle4 ,! squ>e is a v h&y in/rum5t = ! use ( m51 bo? 9 squ>+ mat]ial = build+ or = squ>+ our actions 9 ! int]c\rse ) mank9d2 b z ! ,creator is great] ?an ! creature1 s is ! circle great] ?an ! squ>e4 ,! great majority :o may read ^! l9es w ackn[l$ge ! exi/5ce ( a ,supreme ,ar*itect ( ! ,univ]se1 no matt] by :atev] "n x may please individuals to call him4 ,ev5 ! s-call$ radical unbeliev] :5 corn]$ w ackn[l$ge t ! ,univ]se has be5 made & is kept up by some?+ :i* he _c compreh5d1 b :i* he _c d5y1 b he calls x ,nature4 ,v well1 let u call x ,nature1 & give praise to ! "w ( ,nature4 ,b ! great majority h se5 fit to call x ,god1 & ?is "n is aga9 spok5 diff]5tly by e language ( ! globe1 & ,i suppose t is ! case ) all intellig5t be+s on any heav5ly body t may exi/4 ,?is be+ ! case ! "n is no?+4 ,n[1 :5 ,god made ! heav5 & ! e>?1 he did n use a squ>e1 = !re is no?+ t indicates any?+ l a squ>e4 ,! :ole ,univ]se is laid 9 a circle1 & z f> z our vision rea*es we behold ev]y?+ r\nd1 &1 accord+ to ,g5esis1 :5 ,god made a cov5ant ) ,noah1 ,he seal$ 8 promise ) ! beautiful curve ( ! ra9b[4 ,e /> is r\nd1 s is ! e>?1 & ev5 its ?ree-f\r?s surface ( wat]1 :i* con/itute ! mighty oceans1 are 9 a p]fect circle2 & ev]y?+ t gr[s ^u ! e>? is m r\nd ?an squ>e4 ,we may g any:]e1 & e ?+ t we behold po9ts out t ! ,great ,ar*itect ( ! ,univ]se =m$ 8 plans )9 ! radius ( a circle4 ,9 humble imitation ( ?is div9e pr9ciple1 ,i h adopt$ ! circle1 & p>ts ( ! circle1 )9 :i* ,i =m my plans = ! cov]+ ( m51 :i* became necess>y aft] ,adam & ,eve _h ta/$ ( ! =bidd5 apple1 :i*1 ,i suppose1 0 r\nd1 too4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii47 ,b ,i may h made mi/akes4 ,mak+ mi/akes is natural to e p]son4 ,! brute creation make no mi/akes1 b d !y advance8 ,! spid] weaves 8 web z p]fectly z 8 ance/ors wove !irs ?\s&s ( ye>s ago1 & 9 all probability w d s = ?\s&s ( ye>s to come4 ,he makes no mi/akes because x is n 9 8 nature to d s2 b nei!r does he improve2 he c n ev5 transmit 8 skill to any liv+ be+1 unless ( 8 own specia4 ,man alone is capable ( improvem5t1 & because ( ?is1 he is liable ( mak+ mi/akes2 =1 :at w\ld become ( him if he prov$ successful 9 all 8 und]tak+s8 ,mak+ mi/akes is a wise *eck1 :i* ! ,creator has implant$ 9 ! nature ( man to prev5t him f gett+ ahead fa/] ?an :at is good = him4 ,! wise man le>ns f mi/akes1 ei!r f 8 own1 or ^? ( o!rs1 & ! man :o nev] makes a mi/ake1 w nev] grasp a valuable idea4 ,mr4 ,+]soll pit*es into ,moses1 because t ma/] m9d has made mi/akes1 z he claims1 9 writ+ ,g5esis1 b not)/&+1 ! "n ( ,moses is be=e ! _w1 z a mighty pill> ( tru?1 & no man has yet be5 able to improve ^u ! t5 comm&m5ts1 z laid d[n by t great lawgiv]4 ,if "s ( ! old ma/]s h made mi/akes1 !y c]ta9ly h left u "s valuable sub/ance1 f :i* s5sible m5 w ga!r wisdom1 :ile fools ?r[ slurs4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,ve/s4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,iv47 ,! squ>e consi/s ( #bj numb]s4 ,height ( back1 #ad2 height ( front1 #i2 %\ld]s at an angle ( #ace deg42 top ( back1 #c2 gore "u ! arm1 at l9e #ae1 at l9e #ag1 #a at l9e #bj4 ,s9k ! front bottom ( ! =ep>t #ae deg4 = a pretty squ>e bottom4 ,on ! g>m5t f ! neck to ! ankle ! ve/ is on a squ>e ( #ag4 ,on ?is squ>e ! height ( ! back rema9s #ad1 b on ! front plumb l9e x is #aa2 ! gore "u ! arm is #c1 & ! bottom is squ>e1 :ile ! front has an angle ( #ae deg4 atta*$4 ,! squ>e ( #ag1 ) ! angle ( #ae deg4 9 front1 is virtually no?+ b an angle ( #ae deg41 hav+1 at ! />t+ po9t ( ! g>m5t1 a wid? ( #ag numb]s1 accord+ to scale4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xii & ,,xiii47 ,top ( back is z wide z ! angle ( #de deg4 at ! neck1 b may be made #c4 ,! back mu/ be t wide1 9 ord] to br+ ! spr+ ( ! coll> to ! side ( ! neck1 & aga91 9 ord] to enable ! ve/ mak] to sew ! ve/ back all ar\nd1 & turn ! :ole ve/ ?r\gh ! neckhole4 ,if t hole is too small1 ! back is apt to te>1 :ile ! ve/ is turn$4 ,! bottom ( ! coll> b& is on a /raight l9e f #aa1 on ! plumb base l9e1 ?r\gh #e on ! top squ>e l9e4 ,?is coll> b&1 z x is "h cut1 requires t ! top & side ( ! back mu/ be /ret*$1 say in*1 on ea* side1 & close to ! %\ld] seam1 & x is = ?is reason t ! top ( ! back %\ld be #c wide1 9 ord] to br+ ! /ret* z f> =w>d & to ! side ( ! neck z possible4 ,if ?is is work$ "r x w make a neat coll>1 & a neat %\ld]1 b if ! ve/ mak] c n be dep5d$ ^u1 x is bett] to all[ in* spr+1 & />t+ said spr+ at ! middle ( ! %\ld] seam1 :i* is ab\t #b 94 f po9t #e1 & sew ! back ev5 on ! neckb&1 b 9 no case mu/ ! back be held full4 ,if any?+ is to be ! fulle/1 x mu/ be ! neckb&1 :i* mu/ 9 all cases be cut pl5ty long1 & ! ve/ mak] mu/ be in/ruct$ to fit ! two toge!r1 z above direct$4 ,! junction ( ! neckb&1 or ! s-call$ /&+ coll>1 is fur!r expla9$ 9 ! article on 8,coll>s40 ,x w be se5 t ,dia4 ,,iv has ! %\ld] on ! pla9 angle ( #ace deg41 & t !re is nei!r lap nor gore4 ,a trifle spr+ t is requir$ = a ve/ mu/ be work$ 9 by /ret*+ ! top ( ! back close to ! %\ld] seam4 ,dia4 ,,iv is s repres5t$ = ! foll[+ reason3 ,i int5d$ t ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi %\ld bo? be repres5t$ ) a p]fect %\ld] slope ( #bb deg41 & t ,dia4 ,,ix %\ld h ! p]fect %\ld] slope ( #cj deg41 all ( :i* 7 made ov] ! same patt]n z 0 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,b ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi are cut ( a numb] fur!r sidewise at ! side ( ! neck1 because 9 ! position ( ! %\ld] seam ( ,dia4 ,v1 ! neckb& c n be cut on1 = ! reason t ! spr+ = ! side ( ! neck w\ld locate too f> 9 front4 ,bo? ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi are = illu/ration only4 ,if ,i _h plac$ a spr+ ( in* at ! top ( ! %\ld] seam1 ! %\ld] slopes z %[n 9 ea* ( ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi & ,,ix w\ld h to be *ang$1 & make ! angle ( #ace deg4 a mess ( confus$ l9es4 ,if ! coll> op5s v l[1 & a v holl[ curve is requir$1 ! upp] "p ( ! neckb& mu/ be cut high]1 say "o in*1 at ! upp] end1 b ! same at ! %\ld] seam z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,?is w give a *ance to cut a nice curve or op5 front1 especially = a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 int5d$ = v op5 fronts4 ,b cutt+ ! neckb& high] on ! upp] end de/roys spr+ at ! neck1 & = ?is reason an extra spr+ mu/ be giv5 9 ! %\ld] seam4 ,if ! neckb& is rais$ beh9d1 say #a 941 an extra spr+ ( in* mu/ be all[$ at top ( ! %\ld] seam1 no matt] if x is cut l ,dia4 ,,iv1 or if is all[$ already4 ,=ty ye>s ( tailor+ has conv9c$ me t ,dia4 ,,iv is ! be/ = all k9ds ( ve/s1 because ! front coll> may be curv$ at pleasure1 & ! coll> is simply a piece add$ = ! turn-d[n "p1 & always fitt+ to ! neck-hole ( ! ve/4 ,9 ord] to make ! top coll> con=m ) ! curve ( ! neck-hole1 ! inside "p ( x mu/ be pretty well /ret*$ at ! mo/ prom95t "p ( ! curve4 ,dia4 ,,iv is pla91 & is cut ) ! neck-b& on4 ,dia4 ,v is cut 9 a squ>e ( #aj1 or brea/ & #a 942 ! neck-hole is cut out at ! c5t] ( ! neck1 or at #fg deg41 h5ce ! back & front ( ! neck-hole are equal2 ! %\ld] slope is tak5 out at ! c5t] ( ! neck1 & :5 connect$ w =m ! same z ,dia4 ,,iv1 except ! neck-b&4 ,dia4 ,,vi is ,dia4 ,v simply d\bl$4 ,! solid l9es repres5t "o-half ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 or an angle ( #fg deg4 ,! dott$ l9es pass+ ?r\gh ! neckholes ( ,dia4 ,,iv & ,,vi may be call$ ! gr& c5t] l9es1 & w\ld fit a human =m decapitat$2 & x w be se5 t ! actual neck-hole1 f t l9e1 is j half ! diamet] ( ! neck4 ,! wai/ ( ! ve/ is calculat$ ^u "o-n9? less ?an ! brea/1 :ole measure4 ,! "u-arm cut ( 8"o0 makes a close wai/1 & may be r$uc$ to ?ree-f\r?s1 or ev5 to no?+1 = a l>ge wai/4 7,see ,odd ,=ms47 ,! squ>e ( #bj1 z = a ve/1 is r$uc$ 9 front f ! pit ( ! /oma* d[n1 or :]e ! body turns backw>d1 & :atev] is tak5 (f 9 front is aga9 add$ beh9d2 h5ce ! spr+ ov] ! seat1 :i* really does n at all *ange ! dim5sions1 b gives x a diff]5t direction by r$uc+ ! front & by enl>g+ ! back1 & :5 all ?is is done ! wai/ is r$uc$1 say #a 941 "u ! arm1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,! turn ( ! front is high] up ?an 9 ! back1 & ! front is to be ev5 betwe5 #i & #ae on ! front base1 f :i* po9ts x turns backw>d bo? up & d[n4 ,dia4 ,,iv repres5ts a ve/ to close all ! way up to ! neck4 ,x gives ! :ole front edge1 & may be cut l[] to satisfy notion or /yle4 ,! :ole front ( ,dia4 ,,iv is su* t x c lose "o seam to turn 9 ! edge1 b if ! ve/ is o!rwise well-balanc$ x w n injure x if ! seam is all[$ to rema91 & ! edge b\nd z x is4 ,a diff]5ce w be notic$ betwe5 ! /raight front ( a coat & ! /raight front ( a ve/4 ,on a coat usually worn by ! cl]gy ! buttons & front ( button-holes may be plac$ "o seam back ( ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 d[n1 z f> z l9e #ag1 :i* results 9 ! same ?+ z :5 we cut ! front (f on t l9e1 & sew x up ) a seam4 ,! ve/ is to fit a trifle m snugly at t po9t1 & aft] "o seam is turn$ 91 or cut (f1 !re /ill rema9s "o-half = lap ( buttons & button-holes4 ,to regulate ! top buttons ( ! ve/ & coat1 ! top coat button may be plac$ in* l[] ?an ! top ve/ button1 & ! coat w cov] ! ve/ :5 button$1 provid+ ! coat lapel is #a 94 9 front ( po9t #i4 ,x is ( v great importance = a cutt] to be able to regulate ! above po9ts1 & ?is is "o reason :y ,i h plac$ all coats & ve/s on ! same base2 :i* is on ! angle ( #ace deg4 ,! ve/ arm-hole t\*es l9es #i & #ad at ! bottom1 & ! angle ( #de deg4 9 front1 b may be in* deep] & m =w>d = a p]son :o desires pl5ty ( room4 ,at ! brea/ l9e1 a ve/ is pl5ty l>ge en\gh if x is brea/ & #b 94 ,at ! hip l9e1 hip & #b 94 is l>ge en\gh1 because ve/s are left op5 bel[ ! holl[ ( wai/4 ,if a ve/ is to be sew$ up cle> d[n ov] ! hips1 ! bottom mu/ h a wid?1 :i* corresponds ) ! hip measure1 :5 sitt+ d[n1 aft] x is f9i%$ & button$ up1 or hip & #b 941 ! same z ! brea/4 ,at ! wai/1 a ve/ mu/ be treat$ on ! same pr9ciple z a pants1 t is1 x mu/ be made wide & com=table en\gh = ! wai/ :5 a p]son sits d[n4 ,at ! wai/1 a ve/ is %ut up all ar\nd1 & c n give1 & provisions mu/ be made = expansion :5 sitt+4 ,su* all[ance dep5ds ^u ! condition ( ! body at ! wai/1 & l on pants1 ?is measure may be tak5 9 a sitt+ position4 ,b a v>iation may be made betwe5 p]sons :o are mo/ly /&+1 & ^? :o are mo/ly sitt+4 ,! sitt+ p]son requires a l>g] wai/ p>tly all[$ at ! side1 b mo/ly 9 front4 ,! normal =m requires ! ve/ z l>ge at ! wai/ z x is ov] ! hips1 & ! squ>e ( #bj gives t wid?1 by r$uc+ ab\t #a 94 at ! "u-arm cut at ! wai/4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,xiii w be obs]v$ a dott$ gore 9 ! back1 ext5d+ ?r\gh bo? pants & ve/1 :i* gore is cut out on a pants1 b on a ve/ x is usually buckl$ up4 ,a ve/ made )\t buckle-/raps %\ld h t gore cut out4 ,at ! front ( ! coll>1 ! und]side %\ld be cut s t :5 x is sew$ on x w pull ! ve/ "p ov] s mu* z to hide ! "u side :5 ! top coll> is f9i%$4 ,! inside "p ( ! top coll> mu/ be pretty well /ret*$ back ( ! curve1 & if ! mat]ial is n bias1 & c n /ret*1 a 8,v0 mu/ be sew$ 91 aft] :i* ! :ole top coll> mu/ be %ap$ z x is requir$ by ! curve4 ,?is may cause "s extra "w = ! mak]1 b t is ! only way to produce a l[ op5+ ) a holl[ coll>1 especially on d\ble-brea/$ ve/s4 ,! edge ( a coll> %\ld be f9i%$ ab\t #a 94 above ! %\ld] seam1 & ! "u coll> cut away entirely4 ,ov] & across ! back !re is no ne$ ( any?+ b ! d\ble top coll>1 :i* is simply sew$ toge!r ) a seam1 :i* is press$ out1 ! top coll> d\bl$ up 9 %ape1 & ! back /it*$ on top ( ! coll>4 ,on heavy goods1 ! top coll> seam ( a ve/ %\ld be drawn toge!r to make x ?94 ,! front & ! bottom ( a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ requires especial att5tion1 9 ord] t ! p>ts :i* lap "u1 or ov]1 d n %[ ! front corn]s on ea* side1 or t ! top side runs too high up4 ,r\nd+ (f ! corn]s pretty well w rem$y ! evil to "s ext5t1 b x does n look well1 or a cu/om] may ord] an ev5 bottom ( front1 z 9 fact1 all su* ve/s %\ld be4 ,! foll[+ w make a good front3 ,sweep f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 ?r\gh ! bottom ( ! front angle ( #ae deg41 & add say to in* m r\ndness to ! bottom at ! c5t] betwe5 ! front edge & ! buttons4 ,t sweep may be us$ = ! :ole bottom ( ! front4 ,f ! front l9e g back #b 94 = ! button l9e1 & all[ 9 front ( l9e #i #a 941 & on ! bottom all[ #a 94 9 front ( ! front l9e1 & draw a /raight l9e = t front edge4 ,if ! lap is to be m or less1 set ! buttons t mu* backw>d or =w>d z ! case may be4 ,a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ :i* is to button cle> up to ! neck mu/ h at lea/ a gore ( #b 94 "u ! lapel1 & ! top button mu/ be set back z f> z ! wid? ( ! lapel4 ,a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ %\ld h a small gore "u ! coll>1 ev5 if ! coll> is l[ d[n1 & ! dep? ( ! coll> mu/ be made accord+ to ! measure1 & ! coll> itself may be made /raight or ) a l>ge curve ! same z %[n on ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,! sweep f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 w give ! :ole bottom ( ! =ep>t z %[n on ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii1 & ! d\ble-brea/$ front may be %ap$ j l x1 b may h a trifle m 9 ! c5t] ( ! angle ( #ae deg41 & t trifle may be obta9$ complete by a sweep f #c on ! plumb base l9e ?r\gh ! front angle ( #ae deg4 only4 ,x %\ld be obs]v$ t ea* p>ticul> d\ble-brea/$ ve/ requires p>ticul> c>e1 9 ord] t ! bottom ( ! front1 z well z ! front itself1 & ! coll> is correct1 & t ! buttons are on _! places4 ,if x is desir$ to s9k ! front d[n fur!r ?an ! sweeps1 add equal di/ance1 say in* at ! button l9e & at ! front edge1 & bo? w rema9 9 balance4 ,x w also be f\nd t a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ c be improv$1 by mak+ ! back #ad long above l9e #i1 because ! front w h a bett] *ance to settle 9 its prop] place4 ,nor %\ld x be =gott5 t a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 :i* has to lap ov] ! oval c5t] ( front1 c n set )\t a break some:]e1 unless !re is a gore cut at ! wai/1 or "u ! coll>2 or1 ! front is drawn 9 pretty well "u ! coll>1 :i* is ! same ?+ z cutt+ a gore4 7,see ,supplem5t47 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,frock ,,& ,,sack ,,coats ,,& ,,ve/s4 ,diagrams ,i & ,,iii are giv5 = illu/ration only4 ,dia4 ,,ii may be us$ z a model by :i* to cut all frock coats4 ,a patt]n ( ,dia4 ,,ii 0 us$ to =m ,dias4 ,i & ,,iii1 & !y %\ld all come out ! same z to ! fit4 ,x may be1 t 9 transf]r+ ,dia4 ,,ii 9 ! diff]5t positions1 a slight diff]5ce may h be5 made1 b x mu/ be admitt$ t x is r a difficult und]tak+ to transf] ! same patt]n into diff]5t positions & always h x "w out ! same to ! smalle/ fraction4 ,dia4 ,,ii %\ld be consid]$ ! p>5t patt]n1 & aft] ! division ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 has be5 ma/]$1 anyone :o kn[s 8 ,a1 ,b1 ,c's ought to be able to make ! coat draft4 ,b z ?is "w is int5d$ = beg9n]s z well z = ! old & exp]i5c$ cutt]s1 ,i consid] x wor? ! :ile to give a m9ute description ( its cutt+s z well z ( its mak+ up4 ,be x und]/ood t ! angle ( #ace deg4 & its divisions1 z bases1 are ! same = all frock & sack coats z well z = ve/s4 ,all mu/ be worn ov] ! same body1 & all mu/ h ! same base4 ,b al?\gh coat & ve/ surr\nd ! same =m1 ea* has a diff]5t function2 h5ce ! diff]5ce 9 ! con/ruction ( ! neck-hole1 ! c5tre ( ! front & o!r po9ts4 ,notice ?is fact--t ! top ( ! back ( a ve/ is plac$ at #c f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 or l[] ?an on a frock coat4 ,n[1 9 ! fir/ place1 ! ve/ coll> %\ld be l[] ?an ! coat coll>2 & secondly1 ! front ( a ve/ is cut ne>ly /raight d[n at ! wai/ & all surplus clo? cut away sidewise1 or buckl$ up beh9d--all ( :i* has a t5d5cy to %ove ! ve/ backw>d & upw>d to ! neck4 ,h5ce ! top ( ! ve/ back is l[] ?an ! top ( ! coat back4 ,x %\ld also be notic$ t ! ve/ & sack coat back1 above ! armscye1 up to #ace deg41 is %ort] ?an ! frock coat2 & x is s = ! reason t is set =? 9 ! article on 8,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs40 ,a ve/ is int5d$ to fit be/ 9 front1 & ! height ( back %\ld nev] be less ?an #ad above l9e #i 9 front1 because a %ort back ov] ! blade is apt to cause ! front to be too long ar\nd ! neck4 ,on ! o!r h&1 a coat is int5d$ to fit be/ 9 ! back1 & = ?is reason a sack coat back %\ld nev] be long] ?an #ac4 ,! sack coat1 be+ "s %ort] 9 ! back & loos] at ! side1 has a t5d5cy to fall away f ! neck2 & = ?is reason ! top ( back is plac$ at #c4 ,aga93 ,! ov]coat mu/ cov] ! coll> ( ! und]coat4 ,= ?is reason ! top ( ! ov]coat back is plac$ on #b4 ,! side ( neck1 at #fj deg41 %\ld n be clos] ?an #c or #c1 :i* all[s ! coll> to be sew$ on easily at ! side4 ,n[1 x is true t !re c be no diff]5ce betwe5 ! height ( ! backs ( frock & sack und]coats1 & ,i d n claim t !re is any1 al?\gh ,dia4 ,,ii has a height ( back ( #ae1 on l9e #i ( ! front base2 b accord+ to ! comb9ation ( frock & sack 7see ,dia4 ,,iii71 :5 ! sidepiece is turn$ d[n & 9 at ! wai/1 & all p>ts are ev5 at ! back & ! "u armhole1 !n ! frock & sack backs are equal 9 height4 ,! =ego+ comp>ison1 z well z :at has be5 said 9 ! comb9ation ( sacks & frocks1 is bas$ ^u m ?an t5 ye>s ( exp]i5ce1 & x is repeat$ "h = ! reason t ?is "q has be5 m or less agitat$ 9 ! diff]5t fa%ion j\rnals = _m ye>s )\t any satisfactory result to cutt]s 9 g5]al4 ,= ! frock coat 9 p>ticul> see ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,x may be useless to recapitulate _! po9ts1 b ,i mu/ aga9 rem9d ! /ud5t ( ! fact t ! connection ( ! sidepiece & back mu/ be made at l9es #i & #ae4 ,! back & sidepieces are on ev5 l9es at ! wai/1 & bel[ l9e #i & #ae1 & x is only necess>y to all[ "o seam at ! bottom ( ! sidepiece1 z ! back is 9 "o piece4 ,9 ord] to get ! top ( ! sidepiece long en\gh = ! back1 ! sidepiece mu/ be run out into ! armhole = t purpose1 ) a small gore ( say in* at ! armhole4 ,x is important to "k exactly :]e to make ! connection1 & in/ruct ! j\rneyman to sew up & d[n ev5ly1 or to /ret* or 8full0 c]ta9 p>ts above & bel[1 z ! case may require4 ,! gore betwe5 ! sidepiece & ! back always requires c>eful cutt+1 especially ov] ! blade4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,ii ! gore at l9es #i & #ae is put at #a numb]1 & ,i mu/ "h /ate t ?is is z mu* z any coat may require1 & if ! gore !re is made only 1 x w n spoil ! coat1 b x may d good1 & make ! coat feel easy 9 ! back4 ,a coat cut out too mu* !re w feel small 9 ! back :5ev] ! arms rea* =w>d4 ,x is true1 ?is c be help$ by cutt+ ! armhole =w>d1 b w be at ! exp5se ( "s o!r po9t1 :i* w be di/urb$4 ,a coat cut too tight at t po9t w %[ too mu* back at ! po9t ( ! blade1 bo? 9 l5g? & 9 wid?1 & ,i w "h aga9 say t if y desire a loose fitt+ coat1 a coat t fits1 too1 cut ! gore at t po9t n ov] 1 runn+ up & d[n1 & mak+ ! same connection at ! po9t ( ! blade & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,i h be5 p>ticul> 9 writ+ ab\t ! gore betwe5 ! sidepiece & ! back1 & a cutt] mu/ always wat* ! same1 because ! peculi> mak+ by ?is or t j\rneyman w draw x out into a diff]5t %ape4 ,! back may be call$ ! face ( a coat1 & x requires con/ant wat*+ on ! "p ( ! cutt]4 ,at l9es #i & #ae ! back %\ld n be cut less ?an ?ree numb]s wide1 & ! :ole calculation 9 reg>d to ! height ( a frock coat back is made ) a back1 ?ree numb]s wide at t po9t1 & ! calculation = a sack coat back is made ) sev5 numb] wid? at l9e #i4 ,at ! wai/ ! wid? ( ! back dep5ds a good deal ^u ! size ( a coat4 ,a l>ge size may h en\gh ) two numb]s1 :ile a small size may h two & a half numb]s4 ,a back #b 94 wide at ! tack1 w n be f> out ( ! way = almo/ any size4 ,! position ( ! back & sidepiece requires bo? to be sew$ on smoo?ly4 ,nev] hold ! back full ov] ! blade1 nor sew a l>ge seam ov] ! curve4 ,a back may easily be made too full or too long by full+ x ov] ! blade1 ei!r by do+ s 9 ba/+ or 9 sew+ a deep seam ov] ! curve1 & ! m curv$ ! sidepiece is ! m w be ! dang] ( full+ ! back1 or go+ to ! o!r extreme & /ret*+ x4 ,bel[ ! l9es #i & #ae ! back & sidepieces %\ld also be sew$ on smoo?ly1 p>ticul>ly s = pretty /raight =ms4 ,%\ld ! =m b5d a trifle =w>d1 )\t be+ /oop+1 ! sidepiece may be /ret*$1 or ! back held full1 say to ( an in*1 at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,or1 if y\r coats h a t5d5cy to be a trifle loose beh9d1 /ret* ! back sidepiece a trifle above ! wai/1 & y w f9d t x w improve ! coat4 ,or1 if ! coat is a trifle loose aft] x is made1 y c improve x greatly by /ret*+ bo? sidepiece & back2 & if ! l9+ is n long en\gh x mu/ be op5$ & let out1 or piec$ if necess>y4 ,x is wond]ful :at a diff]5t appe>ance y c give to ! back ( a coat by mak+ ! back & sidepiece l9+ long] or %ort]4 ,! peculi> mann] ( diff]5t p]sons 9 sew+ ! seams1 or ba/+ 9 ! l9+1 w also h a decid$ effect ^u ! appe>ance1 if n ^u ! fit itself1 & a good cutt] mu/ und]/& all t2 t is1 he mu/ be a good coat-mak]1 o!rwise he w always be 9 tr\ble4 ,9 rec5t ye>s ! "q has (t5 be5 ask$3 8,c a cutt] be a good cutt] )\t kn[+ h[ to make a coat80 ,i1 = my "p1 w\ld answ]3 8,yes1 c]ta9ly2 b if he c\ld make ! g>m5ts he cuts1 8 s]vices w\ld be wor? a hundr$ p] c5t4 m40 ,b "r "h let me put ano!r "q3 8,w\ld n a good coat-mak] be a bett] coat-mak] if he knew ! pr9ciple by :i* ! coats he makes are cut80 ,&1 9 answ]1 aga9 ,i say3 8,yes2 a ?\s& times40 ,cutt+ & mak+ mu/ g h& 9 h&1 & :5ev] a cutt] und]/&s bo?1 he is able to give positive in/ruction to a j\rneyman workman4 ,if n1 he is n 8boss0 ov] ! back %op4 ,ov] & along ! hips ! =ep>t & "p ( ! sidepiece %\ld be /ret*$1 say ab\t to ( an in*1 & ! top ( ! skirt %\ld be %runk ab\t t mu*1 s t ! gore 9 ! skirt1 :i* is n cut out1 is %runk away2 & ! gore betwe5 ! sidepiece & front1 :i* is cut out1 is /ret*$ out aga9 at ! seam1 & ! skirt1 =ep>t & sidepiece are sew$ up j z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! gore betwe5 ! sidepiece & =ep>t might be run out at ! wai/ seam & bo? cut equal )\t /ret*+ or %r9k+ ei!r "p1 b x w ?r[ ! fullness ov] ! hips too mu* on "o po9t4 ,! back skirt seam %\ld be oval to imitate ! seat4 ,at ! c5t] ( ! back1 & f ! tack d[nw>d1 ! frock coat is sprung out1 say #a in*es at l9e #cj1 b said spr+ is aga9 r$uc$ betwe5 ! back & =ep>t4 ,on a %ort sack ! oval =m ov] ! seat c be p>tially produc$ by cutt+ ! back seam oval1 :i*1 :5 sew$ up1 w produce ! oval =m4 ,b on a frock coat1 :i* is op5 beh9d1 ! oval c5t] w\ld simply produce a r\nd$ edge at ! back1 b n ! oval %ape ( ! body4 ,n[1 :atev] is ?r[n out ov] ! base beh9d is aga9 tak5 (f or balanc$ betwe5 ! back & front skirt1 & %ap$ to fit ! =m1 w rema9 oval :5 sew$ up4 ,! wid? ( ! buck skirt dep5ds ^u notion or /yle1 b :5 made up ! fold & ! edge ( ! top tack %\ld run p>allel on bo? sides4 ,! %\ld] seams ought to be sew$ on ev5ly1 b z ! back is always m bias ?an ! front1 !re is dang] ( /ret*+ ! back1 & ! seam %\ld be s ba/$ on t :5 held up )\t /ra9 ! back w\ld be a trifle ! mo/ full4 ,x is also a good idea to not* ! %\ld] seam 9 its c5t]1 & ba/e up & d[n4 ,9 mak+ up1 ! front ( ! arm-hole mu/ be well /ret*$2 !n />t+ f ! front sleeve nick up say #a 94 back ( #fj deg4 ,= ?is purpose ! canvas & all padd+ %\ld be cut into at ?ree or f\r places1 & fully #b 94 deep4 ,!n ab\t #a or #b 94 above ! front sleeve nick2 ! l9+ %\ld be cut ?r\gh & a 8,v0 put 94 ,all ( ^! cuts %\ld be s f9i%$ & aga9 fill$ up1 t :5 ! coat is done no (f-set w be visible on ! outside4 ,! front ( ! arm-hole is gu>d$ by ?ree not*es1 & ne$s no fur!r description2 b ,i mu/ caution aga9/ an error 9 reg>d to ! "u sleeve4 ,x is frequ5tly cont5d$ t ! "u sleeve %\ld be sew$ 9 tightly ov] ! sidepiece1 b ?is is a mi/ake4 ,an "u sleeve :i* is held a trifle full ov] ! back & sidepiece w 8set0 f> bett] ?an "o t is /ret*$ away at t po9t4 ,?is is on ! same pr9ciple t ! top sleeve w n set well if /ret*$ at & above ! front sleeve nick1 or any:]e else4 ,:5 a back "u sleeve drags or %[s too mu* sleeve1 x is a sign t ! arm-hole has too mu* space some:]e ov] ! back1 & x mu/ be r$uc$4 ,/ret*+ ! sleeve w nev] make x bett]4 ,b by sew+ 9 t "p ( ! sleeve a trifle full1 ,i d n mean t we %\ld /ret* ! arm-hole t trifle4 ,x %\ld be secur$ by a suitable /ay1 or a solid ?read drawn 91 :i* w keep x f /ret*+1 ?\gh ! sleeve is a trifle full4 ,all l9+s ar\nd ! back & arms mu/ be loose & l>ge1 & may be cut bias4 ,! back l9+ %\ld be provid$ ) a fold z well z ! "u arm cut4 ,:5 ,i use ! t]m %r9k or /ret*1 ,i mean j :at ,i say--n to hold "o side full1 & sew x toge!r1 & !n press x out z be/ y c4 ,a seam sew$1 & p>ticul>ly a ma*9e-sew$ seam1 _c be /ret*$ satisfactorily1 = x w l>gely return & draw ! o!r side full4 ,b a seam /ret*$ be=e sew+ up w rema9 s4 ,?is holds good on all seams & on all g>m5ts1 p>ticul>ly s on pants4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,g>m5t ,,f ,,neck ,,to ,,ankle4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,xiii47 ,jo9 two angles ( #ae deg4 at ! front ( wai/ & back ( seat4 ,at a po9t :]e ! upp] angle ( #ae deg4 is #ag numb]s wide1 is ! />t+ po9t = a coat or ve/4 ,= ! reason t ! diagram conta9s ! full wid? ( a coat1 x is too wide = ! pants1 & ! wid? is tak5 (f at ! side4 ,! front turns at po9t #ae1 :]e ! body beg9s to turn4 ,! pants />t at po9t #ag1 & ! pants & ve/ lap #b to #c 941 j z on ! body4 ,x is n int5d$ = actual cutt+1 b simply to %[ ! cont9u\s =m ( ! :ole g>m5t f neck to ankle4 ,?is diagram c be us$ = night-pants1 p>ticul>ly = *ildr52 b = su* purpose ! di/ance f ! />t+ po9t1 at #ace deg41 to ! crot* %\ld be made #cj numb]s1 s t !re is no /ra9 9 ! upp] "p & crot*4 ,no?+ is to be cut out at ! side1 & may be made )\t a side seam4 ,x w well repay any cutt] to spoil f\r y>ds ( musl9 & make "o = himself1 j to try x4 ,?is diagram %[s ! :ole outside ( ! c5t] ( front & back1 f "o extreme to ! o!r1 & :]e bo? extremes h ab\t ! same circumf]5ce4 ,! b>e neck & ! two b>e ankles w measure ab\t ! same4 ,! l>ge/ "p ( ! body is 9 ! middle & ! c5t] ( front & ! c5t] ( back run up & d[n 9 two angles ( #ae deg4 ea*1 & ! two angles are jo9$ at _! wide/ "p4 ,?is is ! side view ( ! body1 & if ! body 7 really flat1 z x appe>s f a side view1 ! c5t]s ( front & back ( a g>m5t w\ld h to be cut on ! same curve z ! c5t] ( back & front 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,b bo? c5t]s are flat f side to side1 & :at appe>s a %>p edge f ! side view ( ,fig4 ,,ii is a p]fect flat surface 9 ,fig4 ,i1 & is actually flat1 f side to side1 b b5t1 z we c b5d a flat piece ( t91 & = :i* reason ! c5t]s ( back & front c be fitt$ on /raight l9es1 & mu/ be fitt$ ne>ly s4 ,= illu/ration we w suppose t we take f\r bo>ds ea* "o a y>d wide1 & set !m up 9 a jo9$ angle ( #ae deg41 l ,dia4 ,,xiii1 & ?\gh we may look at its %>p edges f ! side1 we are compell$ to use a flat piece ( mat]ial if we w fit ! front & back views2 & ! human =m mu/ be fitt$ j l x1 t is1 all cuts1 or all w$ges1 z 9 ,dia4 ,i & ,,ii1 mu/ be made1 or put 91 f ! side1 & ! flat c5t]s ( front & back mu/ run p>allel to ea* o!r4 ,! c5t]s ( back & front runn+ p>allel ) ! body1 prev5ts ! sides ( ! diagram to be 9 ! same h>mony1 & = ?is reason ! hips1 :i* are ! l>ge/ & wide/ "p ( ! body1 %[ !mselves z ! smalle/ 9 ! diagram4 ,dia4 ,,xiii is "o ( ! illu/rations ^u :i* ,i h work$ = ye>s1 until ,i h br\ght x out z x n[ is4 ,! idea ( jo9+ ! two angles ( #ae deg4 at _! wide/ "p1 came easy en\gh1 b ! true position ( ! two po9ts t[>d ea* o!r1 & ! fitt+ po9ts1 ( all ! g>m5ts 9 detail1 kept me busy = m ?an t5 ye>s4 ,to be sure1 ,i did n "w at x all ! "t1 b on ea* g>m5t ,i cut1 ,i _h to *ange ?is & t1 ei!r at ! neck or wai/ ( a coat or ve/1 or at ! feet or at ! wai/ ( a pants1 & ! alt]ations ,i _h to make aft]w>d1 & o!r indirect losses1 su* z misfits1 & worse1 loss ( cu/om]s1 co/ me a =tune2 b ,i h ! satisfaction ( hav+ be5 able to write d[n & record my exp]i5ce1 & if x does me no good1 x may save "s ( my fell[ m5 ! tr\ble x has co/ me4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,comb9ation ,,( ,,frock ,,& ,,sack4 ,diagrams ,i1 ,,ii & ,,iii are ! same1 & are made ov] ! same patt]n4 ,dia4 ,i repres5ts ! c5t] ( ! back runn+ p>allel to ! c5t] ( front1 z x mu/ be :5 ! g>m5t is on ! body4 ,back & sidepiece are connect$ at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 )9 a squ>e ( #bj numb]s4 ,! back's position1 runn+ p>allel to ! c5t] ( ! back ( ! body1 requires a spr+ ov] ! seat & hip1 />t+ at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,"h x w be notic$ t t squ>e runn+ p>allel to ! back ( ! body1 meets ! seat1 & mu/ spread ap>t to cov] ! seat1 & ! ins]t$ spr+ furni%es ! clo? requir$ ov] ! seat & hips4 ,b :at is put on beh9d mu/ be tak5 (f 9 front1 = ! run ( ! squ>e br+s x outside ( ! body 9 front ( ! wai/1 & mu/ be r$uc$ #ae deg4 f ! front ( wai/ d[n1 & ! bottom ( ! front mu/ be l5g!n$ #ae deg4 9 ord] to make x level4 ,if ! c5t] ( ! front & ! c5t] ( ! back be ( any value z a base1 !n ! base l9es mu/ run p>allel to ! front & back1 or at lea/ !y mu/ be s consid]$ 9 ord] to obta9 ! am\nt :i* gores & w$ges may require1 or ! location ( ! same4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,ii we f9d ! =e "p 9 ! same position z 9 ,dia4 ,i42 &1 9 fact1 all =e p>ts are 9 ! same position1 & :atev] *ange is se5 is caus$ by ! turn+ ( ! sidepiece or back1 or bo?4 ,b ! back & sidepieces h be5 *ang$1 & 9 place ( _! be+ #ae deg4 out ( plumb1 we f9d !m on a plumb l9e re/+ at ! %\ld] blade1 & !nce /raight d[nw>d4 ,?us turn+ ! back base #ae deg4 w cause ! orig9al squ>e ( #bj to =m an angle ( #ae deg41 or a curv$ l9e ( #bj numb]s1 :i* is ! position ( ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,?is diagram repres5ts an angle ( #ae deg4 at su* a wid? t x w cov] ! :ole body1 seams includ$1 = a man's coat4 ,9 ord] to f9d ! wid?1 ! />t+ po9t = a g>m5t is at a po9t :]e ! angle ( #ae deg4 has a wid? ( #ag1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii4 ,h5ce ! squ>e ( #ag )9 ! angle ( #ae deg4 ,t angle ( #ae deg4 repres5ts a %eet w\nd ar\nd ! body1 :i* body we mu/ "h consid] )\t arms4 ,said %eet closes 9 at ! brea/ & %\ld] blade1 & at ! side ( ! ?igh & ! back ( ! seat4 ,9 ?is position ! back ( ! wai/ mu/ be r$uc$ by "o or two gores1 z on a sack or a frock coat4 ,n[ let me say1 t ! !ory ( d$uct+ ! actual wai/ measure f ! brea/ measure1 & !reby f9d+ ! am\nt ( gores to be cut out 9 ! back ( ! wai/1 is a delusion1 because ! space :i* is tak5 up by t %eet at & ar\nd ! wai/ is nev] measur$4 ,x s happ5s t ! angle ( #ae deg4 requires a r$uction ( ab\t #b 94 9 all at ! back ( ! wai/1 :i* is equal to #b 94 less ?an half brea/4 ,b ! angle ( #ae deg4 is always ! same1 :ile ! wai/ proportion *anges4 ,b suppose t ! actual wai/ measure is z mu* z1 or m ?an1 ! brea/ measure4 ,w\ld n t same %eet1 w\nd ar\nd su* a =m1 require a r$uction 9 ! back8 ,by us+ two bases 9 front1 z ! front base ( ! squ>e ( #bj & ! front base ( ! squ>e ( #ag1 :i* are j #ae deg4 ap>t1 we are able to %ift ! back f "o base to ! o!r--n to unc]ta9 po9ts1 b j #ae deg4 ,! g5]al plan ^u :i* ?is book treats1 is to "w f ! corn] ( a squ>e1 or f ! c5tre ( a circle1 or f c]ta9 o!r angles1 su* z #g deg41 #ae deg41 #de deg41 #ace deg41 etc4 ,dia4 ,,iii is made = a purpose4 ,x is likewise drawn )9 ! angle ( #ae deg41 & is int5d$ to repres5t ! diff]5ce betwe5 sack & frock coats4 ,dia4 ,,ii is arrang$ ) a view to cutt+ purposes1 = all p>ts are sep>ate on a smoo? surface1 n 9 _! natural position2 b1 by ! aid ( sci5ce1 we "k j h[ mu* !y are out ( _! natural positions4 ,dia4 ,,iii has ! sidepiece *ang$1 s t x laps ) ! =ep>t at ! wai/ seam4 ,9 s turn+ ! sidepiece d[n1 ! back w necess>ily come along1 & we f9d t x has %ort5$ "o-half ( a numb]1 on l9e #i ov] ! front4 ,by turn+ ! sidepiece 9 at ! wai/1 ! top ( ! back sidepiece seam falls backw>d "o-half1 ?us mak+ ! squ>e #ah = a ?ree-seam$ sack1 z x is = a five-seam$ frock4 ,! top ( ! sidepiece & back lap two seams1 z !y mu/ be :5 sew$ up1 & ! armholes are ! same = bo? sack & frock coats4 ,! lap ( ! sidepiece & =ep>t1 & ! lap ( ! bottom ( ! sidepiece & top ( ! back skirt1 are expla9$ z foll[s3 ,a sack coat is wid] at ! back ( ! wai/ & runs d[n /raight] ?an a frock4 ,a /raight l9e f ! %\ld] blade d[n to ! seat is %ort] ?an a l9e runn+ d[n clos] & 9 a great] curve t[>d ! body4 ,! circumf]5ce :i* ! sack coat occupies at ! back ( wai/ is l>g] ?an t ( a frock4 ,! clos] ! g>m5t fits to ! body ( ! back ! n>r[] x mu/ become1 & at ! same "t x mu/ become long]4 ,n[1 ! position ( ! sidepiece 9 ,dia4 ,,iii j furni%es t extra l5g? requir$1 z well z ! great] r$uction 9 wid?4 ,:5 ! sidepiece is drawn ev5 ) ! =ep>t at ! wai/ seam1 ! lap ( ! sidepiece & ! top ( ! skirt beh9d w crawl inw>d to ! m holl[ "p ( ! wai/1 & ! extra l5g? is !reby tak5 up4 ,! spr+ is n us$ 9 a sack1 nei!r is ! l>g] gore betwe5 ! back & front2 b bo? are omitt$ & a gore ( ab\t #a 94 is cut out1 z = a sack1 ?us obta9+ ! l>g] wid? = ! %ort] back4 ,! frock coat back has lo/ 9 l5g?1 h5ce ! frock coat back on ,dia4 ,,iii is #ad1 :ile ! sack coat back is only #ac1 = ! reason t x is broad] at ! junction ) l9e #i ov] ! front4 ,:5 bo? backs are ?r[n d[n & into a squ>e ( #bj1 or 9 ! %ape ( ,dia4 ,i1 ! frock coat back rea*es l9e #i at a dep? ( #ad1 & ! sack coat back rea*es l9e #i at a dep? ( #ac1 b actually bo? h ! same l5g? f ,o4 ,! extra l5g? ( ! frock coat back & sidepiece above ! bottom ( ! armhole is really a delusion1 b ! extra l5g? ( ! sidepiece at ! wai/ & at ! back is us$ up1 :ile ! clos] frock coat wai/ crawls m inw>d to ! body4 ,comp>e ,article on 8,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs40 ,= illu/ration1 let u suppose we h be=e u a man ) a well-fitt+ sack1--n "o t fits sk9-tight at ! wai/ & spreads out bel[ ov] ! seat1 b "o t is j :at ! ideal sack %\ld be1 :i* is loose1 yet %[+ ! outl9es ( ! =m4 ,say we button x 9 front1 & draw ov] ! wai/ a tape-l9e4 ,we %all f9d t ! m we draw x toge!r ! loos] & wid] x w appe> to be2 & ! bottom ( ! back w become too %ort1 because ! l9e clos] to ! body requires m l5g?1 :i* 9 ?is case w be drawn up f ! bottom4 ,x %[s too mu* wid?1 because ! circle close/ to ! body requires less ( x4 ,b m ( ?is w be said 9 ! article on 8,erect ,=ms40 ,= p>ticul>s1 x %\ld be obs]v$ t ,dia4 ,,iii is 9 a squ>e ( #ah1 & t ,dia4 ,,viii1 or ! ?ree-seam$ sack1 is 9 ! same squ>e4 ,a ?ree-seam$ sack w\ld naturally be two seams less 9 ! squ>e ?an a five-seam$ frock1 :i* w\ld br+ ! squ>e = a ?ree-seam$ sack to #ag4 ,b ! turn+ ( ! sidepiece causes ! squ>e to enl>ge 1 h5ce ! squ>e ( a ?ree-seam$ sack is ! same z on a five-seam$ frock1 or #bj numb]s4 ,see ,dia4 ,,viii ,b4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,ov]coats4 ,,frock1 ,,?ree ,,& ,,five-,,seam$ ,,sacks4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,x ,,& ,xa47 ,! brea/ measure is to be tak5 ov] ! und]coat1 b close4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 an und]coat & an ov]coat is j z mu* z ! diff]5ce betwe5 a ve/ & an und]coat1 & ?\gh all ?ree g>m5ts pass ov] ! same surface1 & mu/ fit ! same body1 ea* "o has a diff]5t function to p]=m1 & ea* ( !m is us$ = a diff]5t purpose4 ,9 comp>+ ! ve/ & frock coat on ! angle ( #ae deg41 we f9d t ! ve/ has a gore "u ! arm at l9e #ag ( say #c1 :ile ! frock und]coat has only ab\t #b numb]s cut out 9 bo? gores1 &1 besides1 ! wai/ seam ( ! frock is to be /ret*$ f to in*es--all ( :i* w make ! half frock coat ab\t #b 94 l>g] ov] ! hips ?an ! ve/4 ,! frock ov]coat requires ! full angle ( #ae deg4 at ! "u arm cut & at l9e #ag1 & a trifle lap at l9e #bj4 ,besides1 !re may be a trifle m wid? all[$ 9 ! c5t] ( ! back z well z 9 ! gore betwe5 ! sidepiece & back1 say f to at ea* po9t1 all ( :i* con/itutes ! diff]5ce at ! side & back ( wai/ betwe5 ! ve/1 und]coat & ov]coat4 ,z long z ! front ( ! ov]coat falls /raight d[nw>d in* m or less su* wid? am\nts to v little1 because ! coat be+ op5 9 front ! buttons may be set =w>d or backw>d4 ,if coats 7 op5 beh9d !re w\ld nev] be any tr\ble to fit ! back1 b ! cutt]'s vexation w\ld !n be f\nd 9 front4 ,aga91 9 comp>+ ! ve/1 "u & ov]coats at ! neck1 we f9d ano!r di/9ct diff]5ce4 ,:ile ! %\ld] = a ve/ may be fitt$ ) ! angle ( #ace deg41 & c\ld be produc$ equally z well )\t any %\ld] seam1 ! und]coat requires say in* spr+ t[>d ! neck4 ,! curv+ ( ! =ep>t at ! %\ld] seam is done to ?r[ r\ndness t[>d ! %\ld] blade1 = :i* purpose ! %\ld] seam is ?r[n backw>d at ! arm4 ,if ! %\ld] seam 0 locat$ at ! top ( ! %\ld]1 or :]e a ve/ %\ld] seam is locat$1 !n t seam w\ld admit ( no curve1 b w\ld necess>ily be cut /raight1 or ) a spr+ t[>d ! neck4 ,:5 a ve/ is f9i%$1 ! coll> w create a spr+ at ! side ( ! neck1 say ab\t #a 94 on ea* side1 :i* spr+ is requir$ to turn upw>d & let ! neck pass ?r\gh4 ,at & ar\nd ! neck1 !re is p]haps a tie & a %irt coll>1 all ( :i* is "u ! ve/1 & all require ab\t spr+ on ea* side4 ,n[1 :5 an und]coat is worn ov] t ve/ & any?+ t is "u x at ! neck1 x foll[s t ! coat requires at lea/ ! same spr+1 & x mu/ be produc$ z %[n 9 ! diagrams1 & :5 we proce$ fur!r1 & put on an ov]coat ov] ! und]coat1 we mu/ aga9 make our provision = a spr+ at ! side ( ! neck1 p>ticul>ly s :5 we "k t ! und]coat coll> takes its full %>e ( extra bulk at & ar\nd ! neck4 ,! height or ! top ( back ( ! diff]5t g>m5ts mu/ also be obs]v$4 ,:ile ! top ( a ve/ back is plac$ at ?ree & ?ree-f\r?s1 ! top ( an und]coat back /&s at ?ree to ?ree & a qu>t]1 & ! top ( an ov]coat back is at two & ?ree-f\r?s to two & a half4 ,! und]coat mu/ cov] ! ve/1 say by at lea/ half an in*1 & ! ov]coat mu/ cov] ! und]coat ! same di/ance1 & ! ne>] a g>m5t comes to ! neck ! m spr+ is requir$ at ! side ( ! neck4 ,no spr+ is requir$ at ! back ( ! neck1 b at ! side1 & is put 9 by ! aid ( ! %\ld] seam1 or by /ret*+ ! sides ( ! neck4 ,! =ego+ descriptions correspond ) ! body1 b !y w am\nt to no?+ if we de/roy ! relative balance ( ! front & bottom ( ! armhole4 ,x is true all coats c be cut )\t t spr+1 by mov+ ! =e "p d[nw>d on ! base until ! two po9ts meet2 b by s do+ all o!r po9ts are *ang$1 & new po9ts w =m4 ,& :ile x is true t ! new position ( ! po9ts & p>ts w fit ! same1 x is equally true t ! balance ( ! armhole & sleeve w also be de/roy$1 at lea/ x w become necess>y to readju/ !m1 :5 ea* g>m5t w !n h a balance ( its own4 ,! purpose h]e9 int5d$ is to h>monize coats & ve/s on "o base1 & simply make ! *anges = ea* g>m5t accord+ to ! requirem5ts ( ! body at ea* p>ticul> po9t1 & 9 all cases ma9ta9 ! angle ( #ace deg4 & ! balance ( ! armhole4 ,by say+ t ! balance ( ! armhole mu/ be reta9$1 ,i d n mean t ! ov]coat armhole mu/ be cut j l t ( ! und]coat2 on ! contr>y1 an ov]coat requires an armhole t is cut deep] z well z m =w>d4 ,cutt+ ! armhole deep]1 or m =w>d1 does n de/roy its balance z long z ! sleeve foll[s4 ,my reason :y ! armhole ( an ov]coat mu/ be cut deep] & m =w>d1 & consequ5tly l>g]1 ?an :at w be obta9$ by a scale say #b 94 l>g] ?an ! und]coat1 is ?is3 ,! armhole ( an und]coat is always l>g] ?an ! arm itself1 & ! body ( ! und]coat is also cut l>g] ?an ! body itself1 ev5 ov] ! ve/4 ,und]coats are made up ! heavie/ at & ar\nd ! armhole1 & if any padd+ or wadd+ is put 91 x is at ! armholes & %\ld]s4 ,all ( :i* requires ! ov]coat armhole to be l>g] 9 proportion ?an ! diff]5ce z obta9$ betwe5 ! measure ov] ! ve/ & ov] ! und]coat4 ,besides1 an ov]coat to be com=table mu/ be loos] 9 comp>ison ) ! und]coat--n only 9 ! arms1 b ov] ! hips & seat4 ,we may cut our armholes z l>ge z we please1 b if ! coat has n en\gh clo? ov] ! hips & seat ! front ( ! armhole w be drawn backw>d1 & x w /rike ! arm & cut x2 & beh9d & bel[ ! arm1 ! back w appe> too long & too wide1 all ( :i* w correct itself1 if m wid? is giv5 ov] ! hips & seat4 ,aft] all o!r p>ts are prop]ly balanc$1 ! ov]coat armhole ought to be f to deep] & m =w>d ?an t giv5 by ! scale = ! und]coat4 ,9 ?is connection ,i w repeat1 t = ! und]coat ! normal =m may h ! armhole #b seams back ( ! angle ( #de deg41 & at ! bottom ! armhole may be f to #a 94 above l9es #i & #aa4 ,! ov]coat requires ab\t in* m1 =w>d & d[nw>d1 & 9 all cases ! sleeve mu/ foll[ by /rik+ a l9e = ! sleeve base #b seams 9 front ( ! armhole1 )\t di/urb+ ! c5t] ( ! back sleeve seam at #h4 ,all ?is mu/ be obs]v$ 9 cutt+ any "u or ov]coat1 because z soon z ! armhole is cut =w>d ! sleeve mu/ foll[ 9 wid?1 :i* mu/ be />t$ at ! highe/ po9t ( ! top sleeve1 & all[+ all ar\nd 9 front4 ,all calculations backw>d z to ! c5t] ( ! sleeve beh9d mu/ be made f ! same po9t = all1 & :i* po9t is a "r angle f ! c5t] ( ! back ?r\gh ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg41--= all ( :i* fur!r explanation w be f\nd 9 ! ,article on 8,armhole & ,sleeves40 ,to recapitulate3 ,a ?ree-seam$ ov]coat c be cut ov] a ?ree-seam$ "u sack1 & two sizes l>g]1 by ! foll[+ *anges3 ,top ( back high]2 back %ort]1 ov] ! blade2 armhole m =w>d & l[]2 all[ance at ! front sleeve seam to foll[ ! armhole2 to m spr+ t[>d ! neck 9 ! %\ld] seam4 ,at ! c5t] ( back #a in* m spr+ ov] ! seat1 & #a in* m spr+ ov] ! seat 9 ! side seam1 :i* mu/ be />t$ pretty well up1 s t ! holl[ ( wai/ receives ab\t in*4 ,9 ,dia4 ,x ! front ( ! neck is plac$ at #d1 re/+ on ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 :i* is z l[ & z f> =w>d z x ought to be made = a %ort roll4 ,ov]coats :i* are int5d$ to button cle> up1 %\ld h t po9t high] & backw>d1 & ! same may be said = ! long roll4 ,a long roll requires a small] lapel1 b a l>g] gore4 ,r$uc+ ! top ( ! front by a gore "u ! lapel w make a f> bett] front ?an if ! top ( ! front edge is %av$ (f t mu*1 because x produces an oval %ape to ! brea/1 & takes up ! surplus clo? 9 ! c5t] ( ! front--& m s on an ov]coat :]e ! front may lap ! di/ance ( #c in*es4 ,to produce a ?ree-seam$ ov] sack = a l>g] or full] wai/1 all[ say #a 94 m at l9e #bj & at ! side seam1 />t+ some:]e bel[ l9es #i & #ac & above l9e #ae2 b ?is all[ance %\ld n be m at ! bottom ?an at ! seat4 ,x is n requir$1 h[ev]1 beh9d1 or 9 ! side seam1 b m =w>d1 & 9 ord] to ?r[ t all[ance ( an in* =w>d to ! side ( ! wai/1 ! side seam ( ! =ep>t mu/ be /ret*$ p]haps ( an in* at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ & above1 because /ret*+ bel[ ! wai/ w\ld d no good1 z ! wid? mu/ be ?r[n to ! wai/ & hip4 ,a ?ree-seam$ ov] sack c be v mu* improv$ by judici\s /ret*+1 z well z by %r9k+1 = ! reason t ! =ep>t is a v l>ge %eet1 & if made up flat w nev] fit ! outl9es ( a man4 ,at lea/1 if all p>ts are fir/ prop]ly /ret*$ or %runk a bett] result c be obta9$ ?an if made up flat4 ,= in/ance1 ! front edge w nev] lap ov] ! c5t] ( ! body #c or #d 941 & button smoo?ly1 if x be n drawn 9 at lea/ #a 94 all ! way across ! *e/1 unless ! surplus l5g? is drawn upw>d & balanc$ by a gore "u ! lapel4 ,n[1 al?\gh a ?ree-seam$ ov] sack c be made1 ,i "k t a five-seam$ "o c be made bett]4 ,cutt]s & tailors may try ev] s long to br+ a ?ree-seam$ ov]coat correctly to ! body )\t /ret*+ or %r9k+ "s p>ts1 b !y w nev] succe$ z well z ) a five-seam$ "o1 & ,i ref] y to ,dia4 ,x4 ,x mu/ be admitt$ t a great deal ( ! spread ( ! body is sidewise ov] ! hips1 or say 9 ! middle ( ! =ep>t4 ,on a ?ree-seam$ g>m5t1 ?is mu/ be put on ei!r 9 front or at ! side seam1 b on a five-seam$ "o ?is c be put j :]e x belongs1 by enl>g+ ! squ>e & cutt+ ! surplus wid? out aga9 "u ! arm z ! fif? seam4 ,by s do+1 ! lap ( ! =ep>t & back ov] ! seat ( a ?ree-seam$ g>m5t is ?r[n sidewise1 & ! back & sidepiece ( ! five-seam$ "o j meet at ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat4 ,all o!r po9ts are ! same 9 ei!r ! ?ree or ! five-seam$ g>m5t1 except ! l5g? ( back above ! armscye1 :i* mu/ be %ort5$ in* on a five-seam]1 & ! side seam /ret*$ upw>d1 :i* /ret*+ upw>d w re-balance ! l5g? ( back aga9 ov] ! %\ld] blades4 ,! height ( back1 f l9e #i upw>d1 %\ld be a trifle %ort] on all ov]coats ?an on und]coats4 ,all ov]coats %\ld be cut s t !y lean m t[>d ! erect =m1 & also t[>d a l>ge-wai/$ =m4 ,x is a fact1 :i* %\ld be well und]/ood by cutt]s1 t a good-fitt+ ov]coat = ! normal =m w fit well1 z an und]coat = ! l>ge-wai/$ =m1 because a l>ge wai/ requires a %ort] back1 & aga91 ! wai/ ( an ov]coat _c be cut accord+ to a wai/ measure ) ! tape drawn tightly ov] ! und]coat1 & z closely z ! body w all[ x to be drawn toge!r1 b ! wai/ measure mu/ be tak5 ov] ! und]coat1 z loosely z x hangs on ! body1 & ?is repres5ts a l>ge wai/4 ,if an ov]coat be button$ up1 x mu/ j pass ar\nd ! und]coat z x hangs loose at ! wai/1 & z soon z ! ov]coat is compell$ to draw ! und]coat toge!r at ! wai/1 x w be too tight = ! purpose4 ,dia4 ,x is int5d$ = a loose coat1 & if a close fit be desir$1 ! measure mu/ be tak5 v close1 & = su*1 a loose measure ov] ! ve/ may be us$1 & 9 no case %\ld a r$uction be made 9 "o place unless = an abnormal =m4 ,dia4 ,x is purposely made l>ge1 b x w hang well on ?ree or f\r diff]5t sizes1 or on anybody :o c put x on1 & is n ( ! odd =ms4 ,fur!rmore1 x w produce an ov]coat :i* goes on1 or comes (f almo/ by itself1 & :i* w n require ! :ole h\sehold to help to pull x on or (f4 ,dia4 ,xa is int5d$ = a clos] fit1 b ,i w "h w>n try+ to make ov]coats fit v closely1 = m are spoil$ 9 ! attempt ?an are made bett]4 ,x is )\t gore "u ! roll1 & may be us$ = a s(t roll1 ei!r long or %ort4 ,be+ )\t gore "u ! lapel requires ! coat drawn 9 pretty well ov] ! front4 ,x may be cut ) a gore1 by :i* surplus clo? may be drawn upw>d f ! c5t] ( front1 provid+ ! am\nt us$ up = ! gore is aga9 all[$ 9 front4 ,i w aga9 repeat t ,dia4 ,x is = an erect =m1 & w cut a l>ge b good-hang+ coat4 ,if ?is diagram be us$ = a m =w>d-lean+ =m1 ! spr+ 9 ! c5t] ( ! back may be r$uc$ to #a at l9e #cj1 />t+ at l9e #ag4 ,all ov]coats are ! bett] (f by hav+ pl5ty spr+ ov] ! seat1 & if !re be too mu* spr+1 x is easy to sew x 94 ,dia4 ,xa w be f\nd to repres5t an ov]coat = a m =w>d-lean+ =m1 b n = ! /oop+ =m4 ,! neck is cut pretty well upw>d1 & besides ! ?ree-eigh?s spr+ at ! %\ld] seam1 ! side ( ! neck mu/ be /ret*$ at lea/ to in* on ea* side1 or else ! coll> w be too tight4 ,/ret*+ ! side ( ! neck1 z direct$ 9 ?is "w1 requires t ! %\ld]s at & ar\nd ! side ( ! neck mu/ be made up ?91 & t all canvas & all padd+ mu/ be cut away gradually1 s t ! fac+ c be /ret*$ also4 ,hold+ ! coll> full1 & )\t /ret*+ ! neck1 or work+ ! %\ld]s accord+ to ! %ape ( ! body1 may result 9 a fit1 b "o coatmak] may put life 9 t fit1 :ile ano!r makes ! fit dead1 or flat1 or /ale1 or :atev] x may be call$4 ,n[ a ^w ab\t ! bottom ( ! back4 ,x may look odd to "s cutt]s to see ! bottom ( ! back %ort] beh9d ?an at ! side2 b ! :ole bottom ( ,dia4 ,x may be consid]$ correct = ! normal =m1 & x is ! same 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! %ortness beh9d ( any back is caus$ by ! back be+ laid out 9 su* a position t no?+ is holl[$ out at ! wai/ beh9d1 b a spr+ ?r[n outside ( ! c5t] ov] ! seat4 ,! backs are laid out 9 su* a position1 because ! armhole & ! sleeve c n be connect$1 z !y are1 on ei!r ,dia4 ,,vii or ,x1 9 any o!r way4 ,b ?\gh1 mo/ all ,fa%ion ,reports h ! backs holl[$ out beh9d1 & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/2 /ill ,i claim t x is a natural way1 to lay out ! upp] p>ts ( ! backs on /raight l9es4 ,:5 we obs]ve ! run ( ! c5t] ( ! back1 & :5 a coat fits ! body well1 we f9d t x runs d[n /raight f ! %\ld] blade1 to ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 no matt] on :at l9es1 or bases su* backs are cut1 b bel[ ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 ! back comes 9 contact ) ! seat & mu/ be sprung out gradually4 ,to run a l9e = ! c5t] ( ! back inside ( ! squ>e1 c be done ) ! same result1 b all o!r po9ts mu/ *ange1 & x w\ld %[ t ! draft does n con=m to ! natural run ( ! body1 :i* is flat beh9d & on /raight l9es4 ,n[1 "r "h1 x might be obs]v$ by "s t ! seat & ! %\ld] blades are on ab\t ! same l9e1 & :i* l9e may be call$ a plumb l9e1 & t ! back %\ld be holl[ at ! wai/ & n come outside ( t plumb l9e4 ,if we obs]ve ! ,fa%ion ,reports we come to ! conclusion t all diagrams are bas$ ^u t idea1 & = m ?an tw5ty ye>s ,i h labor$ "u ! same delusion4 ,if ,i claim t ! back ( a coat runs /raight d[n beh9d1 ,i d n mean x to run /raight d[n ov] ! seat1 l a %irt1 b to run /raight d[n f ! %\ld] blades to ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 :i* is ab\t #ae deg4 f a plumb l9e4 ,consequ5tly ! back ( ! seat is outside ( t l9e1 & ! natural run ( ! coat back is outside ( t base1 b may be divid$ betwe5 ! c5t] ( ! back & ! sidepiece ( a frock coat1 & also p>tly betwe5 ! c5t] ( ! back & ! side ( ! back on a sack4 ,x is true t 9 ,fig4 ,,ii ! plumb l9e z a base = ! angle ( #ae deg4 is outside ! body ( ! seat1 b :5 ! coat is on ! body1 ! gores :i* are cut sidewise cause ! back to be turn$ ab\t #ae deg41 runn+ along ) ! body f ! %\ld] blades to ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 :i* is well illu/rat$ 9 ,dia4 ,i4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,figures ,,& ,,diagrams4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,figures ,,& ,,diagrams4 ,,fig4 ,,& ,,dia4 ,i4 ,?is figure %[s ! front & ! back views ( ! normal =m1 z adopt$ 9 ?is "w4 ,x illu/rates ! slopes ( ! %\ld]s1 & ! measurem5t ( said slopes on ! angle ( #ace deg41 & ea* sep>ate %\ld] slope on an angle ( #bb deg4 f ! side ( ! neck4 ,x also illu/rates ! pants bases1 on ! angle ( #g deg41 & %[s ! reason :y ! top ( ! front ( a pants wai/ is ?r[n =w>d ( ! front base l9e4 ,x %[s ! front pants base sidewise ( ! c5t] ( ! body1 & runs d[n p>allel to ! inside ( ea* leg4 ,?is figure is calculat$ to be 9 su* a /&+ position t ! ankles are #a in*es ap>t1 s t ( t di/ance is ( an in* to ! c5t]1 h5ce ! to be ?r[n =w>d ( ! base1 on top ( wai/1 z ! smalle/ am\nt = any =m4 ,9 front ( ! c5t] ( ! figure w be se5 ano!r dott$ l9e1 :i* is m>k$ #a f ! base1 :i* is int5d$ to %[ ! front ( a pants = a full] wai/1 or = a m =w>d lean+ wai/4 ,?is addition may be ! mo/ t c be all[$ = a =w>d-lean+ wai/1 & may also be consid]$ to be ! mo/ t c be all[$ = a m$ium l>ge wai/1 z to su* =ms :i* require a made up wai/ ( #dj in*es1 b ^: seat measure is only #dj in*es4 ,=ms :i* measure #db seat & require a wai/ ( #dd made up1 may h #a all[$ 9 front ( ! base1 & a #df seat :i* requires a wai/ #ej in*es made up1 may be giv5 #b numb]s1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xx1 b #b numb]s may be consid]$ ! mo/ :i* any pants w require4 ,! position ( ! front pants base1 on ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #g deg41 mu/ be consid]$1 z x w be1 :5 ! pants are on ! body1 t is1 runn+ p>allel to ! front ( ! leg1 :i* is =w>d on top ( ! wai/1 & :i* slope may aga9 be call$ #g deg4 ,f ?is l9e1 mo/ ( ! normal =ms c>ry ! top & front ( wai/s a trifle backw>d1 b x is v little1 & we w call su* wai/s ev5 on t l9e1 9 ord] to make a /&>d4 ,n[1 x mu/ n be suppos$1 t :5 a wai/ gr[s l>g] 9 proportion1 t x gr[s1 or spreads v mu* =w>d ( t l9e4 ,:5ev] ! wai/ gr[s l>g]1 ! body becomes m erect1 9 ord] to keep 9 balance1 & ! relation betwe5 ! front ( su* a wai/1 & ! l9e runn+ p>allel to ! front ( ! leg1 *ange v little1 & ,dia4 ,,xx may be consid]$ to be l>ge en\gh at t po9t = almo/ any =m4 ,on ! o!r h&1 we f9d l>ge-wai/$ =ms :i* d n c>ry _! fronts ( wai/s 9 front ( t l9e at all1 ?\gh _! abdom5 may curve outside ( x4 ,su* pants may be cut ) a normal front ( wai/--b ) a trifle m curve ov] ! c5t] ( ! abdom51 & pl5ty full at ! side s t ! =ep>t is ?r[n =w>d f ! side1 =m+ ano!r curve ov] ! oval front on ! same pr9ciple1 z ! back is ?r[n backw>d f ! side1 to =m ! curve ov] ! seat4 ,!re is an endless v>iation ( su* =ms1 & x is =tunate = cutt]s t a trifle m or less w n kill a pants4 ,! diff]5ce 9 ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx & ,,xxi is n s great t a great mi/ake w\ld be made4 ,all ! small diagrams 7 made ) ! top ( front ( wai/ ?r[n =w>d ( ! base #a1 b z !y are us$ = illu/ration only1 & z !re are a great _m pants :i* require x1 !y h be5 left t way4 ,o!rwise !y are ! same z ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx & ,,xxi4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #a4 ,,fig4 ,,ii4 ,fig4 ,,ii illu/rates ! side view ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 z appli$ on ! draft1 & %[s ! r$uction ( ! squ>e 9 front & bel[ ! wai/1 z well z ! addition beh9d & bel[ ! wai/4 ,! diagram on ?is figure is a simple ve/1 on ! squ>e ( #ag1 & h5ce ! "u arm cut is #c at ! circle4 ,illu/ration3 ,fig4 #b4 ,,dia4 ,i4 ,dia4 ,i is int5d$ = illu/ration only4 ,x is on a squ>e ( #bj1 & ! is int5d$ = ! extra seam :i* ! frock coat requires4 ,! c5t] ( ! back & c5t] ( ! front run 9 ! same direction z !y mu/ run :5 on ! body4 ,x also illu/rates ! spr+ ov] ! hips z ! body actually requires x4 ,! gore betwe5 ! side-piece & back illu/rates :at may be buckl$ up on a ve/4 ,! front repres5ts a /raight s+le-brea/$ coat1 z worn by ! milit>y or cl]gy1 & may be dep5d$ ^u if plac$ z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! front ( su* a coat mu/ h a l>ge gore 9 ! c5t]1 :i* gore mu/ be made at lea/ #a to #a in*es1 seams includ$1 & mu/ />t well up above l9e #ae1 & ! edges cut oval1 n holl[2 & ! canvas & all padd+ & l9+ mu/ be cut & work$ 9 ! same way1 9 :i* case ! front requires no draw+ 94 ,! /ay is put on close m]ely to keep ! edge f /ret*+4 ,above l9e fifte5 ! button-holes are cut1 & ! buttons are set plumb on ! front l9e1 b bel[ l9e #ae ! button l9e turns backw>d z %[n4 ,to meet ! coll> 9 front1 nick "o seam back ( ! front l9e1 = milit>y1 b = a cl]gyman's coat place ! nick back ( said l9e4 ,! top ( ! skirt laps #a in* 9 front ( ! =ep>t1 & drops in* on ! bottom ( ! front4 ,! /&+ coll> mu/ be a /raight piece1 & its wid? dep5ds ^u regulation4 ,= a cl]gyman's coat ! /&+ coll> %\ld n be less ?an in*es nor m ?an #a in*1 made up4 ,! front ( su* a coll> may be run /raight upw>d ) a l9e p>allel to ! front l9e ( #ace deg41 b may be %av$ backw>d on top accord+ to regulation or ta/e4 ,! place = ! %\ld] /raps on milit>y or society coats is ! spot betwe5 ! l9es repres5t$ by #fj deg4 f ! front & #fj deg4 f ! back1 :i* space ( #g deg4 repres5ts ! top ( ! %\ld]4 ,= practical purposes1 use ! back "p ( ,dia4 ,,ii = su* a coat1 & %ape ! front l ,dia4 ,i4 ,?is ,dia4 ,i is made to %[ all ! angles :i* />t f ! po9t ( #ace deg41 & :i* are requir$ = a coat or ve/4 ,t angle :i* =ms ! %\ld] seam1 & :i* is also m>k$ squ>e ( #bj1 is #de deg4 f ! c5t] ( back1 b = "s reason x 0 =gott5 to be s m>k$4 ,! l9es ( ?is diagram may be us$ to draw ! angles = any coat or ve/1 by simply mak+ !m long en\gh = ! size requir$1 ! same z 9 ,dia4 ,,xii-,a4 ,drawn long en\gh to cov] bo? %\ld]s1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i1 ! outside l9es ( ?is angle ( #ace deg4 is to be us$ to measure ! %\ld]s z well z to draw all ! o!r l9es1 or angles = draft+4 ,a circle drawn f ?is po9t1 ) a half diamet] ( #h in*es1 w be l>ge en\gh1 & x may be cut out ( solid pa/e-bo>d1 b bett]1 ( t9 or z9c on :i* ! l9es are correctly drawn4 ,! location ( ! =ep>t & %\ld]s is ! same z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 or any o!r diagram4 ,! back & ! sidepiece on ! squ>e ( #bj are 9 a diff]5t position only4 ,! front is j z good z any diagram c be made = a milit>y or = a cl]gyman's coat1 :5 plac$ z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! back & ! sidepiece is = illu/ration only4 ,t back :i* re/s on ! angle ( #ace deg4 is 9 all respects correct1 b ! back :i* re/s on ! sidepiece has "o incorrect l9e1 & ?is is ! l9e =m+ ! %\ld] seam4 ,x is correct at ! armhole1 b %\ld run up to ! po9t ( ! squ>e ( #bj1 s t all ?ree l9es meet1 & x w be f\nd t f t po9t1 d[n to l9e #i ov] ! front1 w be #ad1 b l9e #i itself gives ! correct di/ance f ! top & back corn] ( ! squ>e4 ,by close obs]vation x is also se5 t ! height ( back above l9e #i is only m 9 ,dia4 ,i ?an x is 9 ,dia4 ,,iv1 or on ! ve/1 & also t ! side ( ! back ( ,dia4 ,i is r$uc$ aga9 9 l5g? in* by a gore f ! armhole to ! %\ld] blade1 all ( :i* proves t bo? coat & ve/ are ! same ?+ on ! same squ>e1 & t ! heights ( back & front are ! same1 & 9 ord] t ! ve/ is cov]$ by ! coat1 ! neckhole = ! ve/ is cut l[]4 ,if ev]y?+ is consid]$ at ! wai/1 ! coat is only a trifle l>g] ?an ! ve/1 & t1 :at ! front ( a coat has m ?an a ve/1 is us$ = ! lapel4 ,?\gh ,dia4 ,i has a squ>e ( #bj1 & ,dia4 ,,iv has only a squ>e ( #bj1 bo? h ! same wid? :5 all ! seams are sew$ up4 ,all ( :i* %[s t1 z ! coat mu/ pass ov] ! ve/1 ! ve/ mu/ be cut at lea/ "o size small] ?an ! coat1 & ,i h f\nd x correct4 ,9 o!r words3 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 ! brea/ measure ov] ! ve/1 & t "u ! ve/1 is ab\t #a in* 9 ! :ole brea/ measure4 ,dia4 ,i gives a good deal ( in=mation1 ?\gh x may be useless = practical cutt+4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,i4 ,,dia4 ,,ii4 ,?is is a pla9 d\ble-brea/$ frock2 & ! diagram is pla9 & requires little extra description1 except ! front ( ! wai/ & lapel4 ,! =e-"p has no gore at ! wai/1 & ! r$uction is made 9 front4 ,x w be se5 t ! d\ble-brea/$ front ( ,dia4 ,,ii is only ab\t #a in* wid] ?an ! s+le-brea/$ front ( ,dia4 ,i1 & t ! gore 9 ,dia4 ,i is balanc$ 9 ,dia4 ,,ii by ! l>ge gore betwe5 ! lapel & =e-"p upw>d1 & if x is desir$ to cut a small gore at ! wai/1 !n all :at t gore takes up mu/ be all[$ 9 front4 ,! lapel 9 ,dia4 ,,ii w roll any:]e d[n to ! second or ?ird button1 b if a gore is cut at ! wai/ ! roll w g d[n to ! wai/ seam2 & if ! coll> is pretty well r\nd$ 9 front ! lapel may be run d[n to ! bottom4 ,all frock coats h ! c5t] ( ! back pretty well ?r[n out at ! bottom ( ! skirt1 & ?is extra wid? is aga9 r$uc$ betwe5 ! back & front skirt1 :i* op]ation all[s t seam to be oval-%ap$ 9 ord] to fit ov] ! seat4 ,! frock coat1 be+ op5 beh9d1 mu/ receive its oval =m ov] ! seat 9 ! seam betwe5 ! back & front skirt1 because t seam is sew$ toge!r & w hold its %ape1 :]eas if ! r\ndness 7 plac$ 9 ! c5t] beh9d x w\ld simply produce a curv$ edge1 b n an oval %ape = ! seat4 ,! lap betwe5 ! =ep>t & ! skirt repres5ts ! extra l5g? ov] ! oval *e/1 & = a full *e/1 & if ! *e/ is n v full1 ! lap ( #a numb] may be r$uc$ to at ! front edge1 b mu/ rema9 #a numb] at ! plumb l9e base4 ,dia4 ,,ii is int5d$ = ! normal =m1 & = ! foll[+ measure2 ,brea/1 #ce2 wai/1 #cb2 hip1 #cd2 seat1 #cf2 l5g? ( legs1 #cb to #cc2 =m /raight )\t be+ ov]-erect4 ,! back & ! sidepiece is int5d$ = a close fit1 or z f9e "w ought to fit4 ,if a loos] fit is requir$1 ! gores betwe5 ! back & ! sidepiece & betwe5 ! =e-"p & ! sidepiece %\ld be made a trifle small] f ! holl[ ( ! armhole d[nw>d1 :i* w give great] ease to ! armhole & is bett] ?an to cut ! armhole m =w>d4 ,if a wai/ is prom95t1 say ne>ly z l>ge z ! brea/1 ! und]>m gore may be made z small z to at l9e #ag & run out to no?+ at l9e #bj2 :ile a v l>ge wai/ may require a lap ( #a in*1 at ! wai/ seam1 />t+ said extra wid? at ! bottom ( ! armhole4 ,?is diagram %[s ! sleeve & ! armhole diff]5t ?an ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,! armhole is cut out to ! front sleeve base l9e & ! sleeve & ! armhole laps #b at #fj deg41 all ( :i* gives bo? armhole & sleeve a trifle l>g] & t armhole requires n s mu* /ret*+ z t ( ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,! top sleeve & armhole nicks are connect$ by a "r angle f ! c5t] ( back ?r\gh ! angle ( #fj deg41 & !y w fit pretty close toge!r1 & 9 fact may be tak5 toge!r on all sleeves & armholes1 ba/+ =w>d & backw>d to meet ! o!r nicks4 ,,note3 ,else:]e x is /at$1 t ,dia4 ,,ii mu/ be consid]$ ! p>5t patt]n ( all o!rs1 :i* is q true1 ?\gh ! armhole ( ,dia4 ,,ii is l>g] ?an ! o!rs4 ,,fur!r3 ,9 cutt+ ! gore betwe5 ! back & sidepiece1 po9t #e mu/ be q slightly t\*$ by bo?1 & x may be bett] to h gore !re on all coats except = ! /oop+ =m4 ,see ,dia4 ,,ii ,b4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4 ,,dia4 ,,iii4 ,?is diagram is also made = illu/ration only1 = x w\ld be too complicat$ = practical cutt+4 ,x is made = ! purpose ( %[+ ! correct position ( ! back & sidepiece = cutt+ a sack coat )\t *ang+ any balance 9 ! armhole4 ,! sidepiece is s plac$ t x w =m a spr+ at ! side ( ! hip1 & ! back & sidepieces are lapp$ ov] on top en\gh to balance "o seam1 leav+ ! sack z a ?ree seam$ g>m5t4 ,! top ( ! back skirt & bottom ( ! sidepiece lap ov]1 & :i* lap repres5ts ! extra l5g? t ! frock coat requires :ile pass+ clos] to ! holl[ ( ! body4 ,on ! sack coat ! spr+ ov] ! hips is n us$1 nor is ! l>g] frock coat gore beh9d1 b betwe5 ! two ! sack seam is cut ) a gore ( ab\t #a numb]s at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,9 plac+ ! sidepiece 9 position1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,iii1 ! back "p ( ! sidepiece on ! %\ld] blade falls backw>d & enl>ges ! squ>e 1 & = ?is reason ! ?ree-seam$ sack coat has a squ>e ( #ah1 or ! same z a five-seam$ frock4 ,9 turn+ ! sidepiece d[n into ! wai/1 ! top ( ! sidepiece w fall d[n beh9d & =m ! spr+ betwe5 x & ! skirt1 & consequ5tly ! :ole frock coat back %ort5s on top1 or f l9e #i upw>d2 & = ! fur!r reason t ! sack coat back is ! wid]1 ! height ( a sack back appe>s /ill %ort]1 z se5 9 ,dia4 ,,iii & ,,viii1 & is #ac4 ,= fur!r explanation z to :y ! back ( a sack is %ort] ?an t ( a frock1 see article on 8,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs40 ,all =ep>ts 9 ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii & ,,iii are 9 ! same position1 & all *anges are made on ! sidepieces & backs4 ,dia4 ,,iii produces ! clos]-fitt+ skirt = a cut-a-way4 ,all skirts are alike ov] ! back1 because all coats mu/ fit ! same ov] t portion ( ! body1 b fronts ( cut-a-ways mu/ be clos] ?an ^? ( d\ble-brea/$ /raight coats4 ,! lap ( ! top ( ! front ( ! skirt & bottom ( ! front ( ! =ep>t are r$uc$ f ! sidepiece =w>d1 :i* takes away all surplus fl[ ( ! skirt4 ,! gore 9 ! =e-"p is simply turn$ =w>d on a cut-a-way1 :ile on a 8,pr9ce ,alb]t0 x /ops at ! wai/ seam4 ,! sw+ ( ! sidepiece 9 ,dia4 ,,iii is made at l9e #i ov] ! =ep>t & on ! squ>e ( #bj4 ,! break is made !re1 & ! calculation is made f t po9t2 & x is = ?is reason t an op5+ is made above l9e #i1 :i* is ab\t at ! height ( ! sack coat side seam1 & is cut away on a frock coat1 z a small gore1 if ! g>m5t is cut 9 ?is position4 ,b 9 a ?ree-seam$ sack coat ! sw+ mu/ be consid]$ fur!r back1 or at ! seam1 consequ5tly ! op5+ is at ! top ( ! sack coat side seam1 :i* is cut out z a small gore betwe5 back & front & above l9e #aa1 or else ! back armhole w be too wide1 & %[ too mu* sleeve !re4 ,?is gore may be made to ( a numb]1 b :i* is oblit]at$ :5 ! sidepiece is turn$ s z to come 9 ! position z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,viii-a4 ,aft] ! cut = ,dia4 ,,iii _h be5 made1 ,i came to ! conclusion t ! op5+ ( ! frock coat sidepiece & =ep>t t[>d ! armhole1 c\ld j z well be balanc$ 9 a sack1 by cutt+ x z a five-seam]1 & by mak+ back & =ep>t ev5 above l9e #aa1 & ?is 0 "o reason :y ,dia4 ,,viii ,b 0 add$4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,iii ,,dia4 ,,iv4 ,dia4 ,,iv repres5ts a ve/1 & is q pla94 ,x is on a squ>e ( #bj1 & 9 ! same position z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i1 front & back bases runn+ p>allel4 ,f ! front ( ! wai/1 or at ! pit ( ! /oma*1 or :]e ! body turns1 ! squ>e ( #bj is r$uc$ to con=m to ! b5d ( ! body1 & f ! back ( ! wai/1 or :]e ! body turns1 ! back receiv+ :at ! front has lo/4 ,"u ! arm ! normal =m requires a r$uction at ! wai/ ( ab\t #a 941 & ano!r 9 ! middle ( ! back1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i1 betwe5 ! sidepiece & back1 b :i* may p>tly be tak5 (f at ! side seam & p>tly buckl$ up4 ,a ve/ )\t buckle-/raps %\ld be cut ) a gore 9 ! back ( say in*1 & z %[n by dots 9 ,dia4 ,,iv & ,,xiii4 ,all ve/s %\ld be cut z ?\gh !re 7 to be no turn-d[n coll>1 & if su* a coll> is to be add$1 a simple piece ( ! %ape ( ! :ole neck is atta*$1 9 :i* %ape ! front may be curv$ at pleasure4 ,! side ( ! neck z #d1 is = a ve/ )\t a turn-d[n coll>1 & is calculat$ to lose "o seam = ! turn-92 & if ! ve/ be b\nd ?is po9t ought to be #d1 & if a turn-d[n coll> is put on1 said po9t %\ld be fully #d1 because no?+ is lo/ by a seam1 b in/ead !re is an actual ga9 by ! top-coll> cov]+ ! seam1 & = ! purpose ( illu/rat+ ,dia4 ,v1 ,,vi1 ,,ix1 ,dia4 ,,iv has ! %\ld] seam cut on a /raight l9e1 & )\t lap or gore1 & if cut j l x1 ! side ( ! neck mu/ be /ret*$ say ab\t to in*es on ea* side1 & close to ! %\ld] seam4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! ve/mak] c n be tru/$ to d ! /ret*+ "r1 x is bett] to all[ ab\t spr+ at ! neck1 />t+ at1 or ab\t ! middle ( ! %\ld] seam1 or to cut ! ve/ z direct$ at ! end ( ! article on ve/s4 ,9 no case mu/ ! back be held full on ! coll>4 ,:5 f9i%+ ! neck1 ! side ( ! back is to be turn$ 91 or cut (f1 :atev] surplus l5g? may be !re1 b ! c5t] ( ! back is turn$ 9 j "o seam4 ,not* ! %\ld] seam z %[n & ba/e up & d[n4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,iiii4 ,,dia4 ,v4 ,?is diagram is also giv5 = illu/ration only4 ,x repres5ts ! c5t]s ( ! front & back on /raight l9es1 ! neck-hole on ! back & front1 ev51 & ! r$uction ( ! %\ld]s at #de deg41 z x actually is to be r$uc$4 ,! side ( ! neck repres5ts ,dia4 ,,iv z cut out #d1 & w\ld require a /&+ coll> ( to be sew$ on4 ,9 ?is position a neck-b& c\ld n be cut on ! =ep>t z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iv1 because ! %\ld] seam w\ld be too f> 9 front4 ,?\gh x is useless = actual cutt+1 x is wor? its place 9 ?is "w = illu/ration4 ,x fully demon/rates t ! s-call$ front %\ld] po9t is a my?4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #e4 ,,dia4 ,,vi4 ,dia4 ,,vi is also = illu/ration1 & %[s ! ve/ on ! angle ( #ace deg41 & aga9 on an angle ( ( #ace deg41 or on #fg deg4 ,!re ! angle ( #ace deg4 is cut 9 two1 or fold$ toge!r1 s t ! c5t] ( ! front & c5t] ( ! back are "o l9e1 & :]ev] ! front ( ! wai/ is r$uc$ ! back is enl>g$4 ,! cut ( ! side ( ! neck is ! same z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,v1 ?\gh "o is %[n z #c #b-d & ! o!r z #d1 b ! calculations are made f diff]5t po9ts4 ,dia4 ,,iv is ! p>5t patt]n ( ,dia4 ,v & ,,vi4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #f4 ,,dia4 ,,vii4 ,?is diagram repres5ts ! sleeve sy/em4 ,on ! top squ>e l9e f ! front base1 or at #de deg4 f ! back1 ! sleeve & ! %\ld] %\ld lap ab\t #b1 or z mu* z possible to =m a nice curve t[>d ! front seam4 ,a %ort top sleeve on ! angles ( #de & #fj deg4 w draw bo? ! front & ! back seams out ( %ape4 ,a top sleeve is bett] too long at ^! po9ts ?an too %ort1 because ! top sleeve c easily be r$uc$1 b if t lap is too %ort1 ! back & ! front seams w be drawn upw>d1 & w be too long at ! armhole1 :ile at ! h& ! sleeve is t mu* too %ort4 ,:5ev] ! "u sleeve appe>s too long on ei!r seam1 x %[s t ! top sleeve is too %ort4 ,at #fj deg4 ! diagram %[s #b1 :i* may be tak5 z ! smalle/ portion to be giv5 !re1 & may be made #b4 7,see ,dia4 ,,ii47 ,! armhole & sleeve %\ld lap #a to #b seams on ! front sleeve base1 & if ! armhole is cut l>g] ?an ! diagram1 ! sleeve mu/ foll[1 :i*1 ( c\rse1 mu/ *ange ! lap at #fj deg4 ,! armhole1 z x is %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,vii1 is = a close-fitt+ armhole1 b !re is no law to prev5t x f be+ cut fur!r =w>d & d[nw>d1 provid+ ! sleeve foll[s4 7,see description ( sleeve z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,x47 ,,note3 ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,,ii ,a & ,,viii ,b 7 made "o ye> lat] & %[ ! top connections ( sleeve & armhole 9 a diff]5t way1 & !y also %[ ! armhole l>g] all ar\nd4 ,/oop+ =ms ) prom95t %\ld] blades require _! armholes /ill fur!r =w>d1 b ,i h nev] f\nd a /oop+ =m :o requir$ 8 armholes m ?an 9 front ( #de deg41 & su* =ms %\ld h ! back t mu* wid]4 ,! armhole back ( #de deg4 = ! arms ?r[n back & 9 front ( #de deg4 = ! arms ?r[n =w>d may be consid]$ ! limit = bo? extremes4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #g4 ,,dia4 ,,viii4 ,is a sack ) ?ree seams & ) a /raight front4 ,z long z a cutt] is able to cut a /raight front1 he w h little tr\ble to cut any %ape ( a cutaway = ei!r sack or frock4 ,z %[n 9 ! diagram1 ! height ( ! back above l9e #i ov] ! front is plac$ at #ac1 ! same z 9 ,dia4 ,,iii4 ,?is height ( back w make ! back pl5ty %ort = ! normal =m1 & x may be call$ r %ort1 b any coat back is bett] in* too %ort ?an in* too long1 = if %ort1 x c easily be /ret*$ at ! c5t] & ov] ! %\ld] blade1 & su* /ret*+1 if done prop]ly1 w improve all su* sack coats1 because ! c5t] ( ! back z f> ov] to ! %\ld] blade ( any p]son are always long] ?an ! sides4 ,on a frock coat1 ! %ortness at ! sides is r$uc$ by a small gore betwe5 ! top ( sidepiece & ! back1 because ( ! curv$ seam1 b on ! m /raight sack seam1 said r$uction c n s well be made1 except by cutt+ ! back %ort]1 & /ret*+ x aga9 beh9d1 at1 & z f> ov] z ! %\ld] blade4 ,= a d\ble-brea/$ front1 add #a in* to ! front ( ,dia4 ,,viii--cut a gore "u ! lapel1 & add to ! top & front ( ! lapel1 :atev] t gore takes up4 ,set ! buttons back accord+ly4 ,dia4 ,,viii is made = ! same =m z is ,dia4 ,,ii1 t is = a sl5d] =m & small wai/1 & if ! wai/ is to be m full1 or ! armholes are to be q loose = work+ coats1 r$uce ! gore betwe5 ! =e "p & back "o half in* cle> d[n1 />t+ at l9e #aa4 ,! armhole is repres5t$ close-fitt+1 requir+ x to be well /ret*$1 b x may be cut =w>d to ! base & 9 e respect made l ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! same may be done to ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,viii4 ,,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4 ,?is diagram is made especially = ! erect =m1 b may be us$ = ! normal =m by plac+ ! dep? ( back at #ab above l9e #i4 ,z ! diagram is1 x simply gives ! result ( ! clos+ ( ! fold1 z %[n across ! wai/ 9 ,dia4 ,,viii4 ,erect =ms usually require small coats 9 ! back1 & 9 ! armhole1 & = ?is reason1 su* =ms %\ld be cut "o size small] ?an ! measure1 & in* %\ld be all[$ 9 front1 to balance ! size4 ,! front is giv5 ) a pretty l>ge roll & ! upp] "p may be us$ = a d\ble-brea/$ sack1 :ile meet+ ! front edge & ! front angle 9 front ( l9e #ae & by go+ =w>d #d numb]s at l9e #cj4 ,! gore betwe5 ! back & sidepiece may be r$uc$ to #b at l9e #bj & to #a at l9e #cj4 ,! height ( ! back1 above l9e #i is #a numb] %ort] ?an on ,dia4 ,,viii1 & :i* is acc\nt$ = z foll[s3 ,! fold across ! wai/ :i* is obta9$ f above is 1 & ! side ( ! sidepiece is /ret*$ upw>d on ! =ep>t1 all ( :i* requires ! back to be #a %ort] above l9e #i4 ,if ! sidepiece is /ret*$ less1 ! back mu/ be s mu* long]1 & = a good _m =ms /ret* may be pl5ty1 9 :i* case ! height ( back is to be #ab4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4 ,,dia4 ,,ix4 ,dia4 ,,ix is made to illu/rate ! *anges ( ! %\ld]s f ! normal to ! long or %ort neck4 ,= ?is purpose ! %\ld]s on ea* back & front are made equally high1 & ! coat armhole connect$ ev5ly all ar\nd4 ,?is diagram be+ on ! squ>e ( #ag w\ld require a coat to lap #b seams some:]e4 ,! diagram itself %[s a ve/ on ! angle ( #ae deg4 & 9 a squ>e ( #ag1 ) a gore "u ! arm ( #c4 ,b ! ma9 object ( ,dia4 ,,ix is to illu/rate ! height ( ! %\ld]s2 & extra l5g? or extra %ortness ( ! %\ld] mu/ be produc$ z %[n by dots1 & is fur!r expla9$ 9 ! articles on 8,long ,necks0 & 8,squ>e ,%\ld]s40 ,?is diagram also %[s a %\ld] slope ( #cj deg41 = ! reason t ! base is on ! front plumb l9e & n on ! c5t] ( ! front4 ,! front plumb l9e is #ae deg4 back ( ! c5t]1 h5ce f x ea* front & back %\ld] slope is #g deg4 out ( its normal position4 ,if ! diagram 7 made on ! squ>e ( #bj1 ! armhole c\ld n be connect$ all ar\nd1 z x mu/ be on ! body4 ,?is diagram repres5ts a complete armhole1 aft] ! "u arm seam is sew$1 & ! coat is built ar\nd x4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,ix4 ,,dia4 ,x4 ,dia4 ,x is a five-seam] ov]coat = ! normal1 b lean+ t[>d ! erect =m4 ,! armhole is cut full =w>d to #de deg41 & ! sleeve base mov$ =w>d two seams1 or in*es4 ,! sleeve "p ( ?is diagram makes a close sleeve head1 & a lap at #fj deg4 may be made to m1 & at #de deg4 x may be made m or any am\nt requir$ to make a nice curve4 ,! bottom ( ! armhole is pl5ty l[1 & ! gusset on ! top ( ! "u sleeve fits x4 ,! wid? ( ! %\ld]s may be made #i at #fj deg4 ,a half-in* lap betwe5 ! armhole & sleeve at ! back sleeve c5t]1 or at l9e #h1 w make ! :ole sleeve extra easy1 ?\gh ! back sleeve may hang a trifle loose :5 ! arm hangs d[n1 b ?is in* extra l5g? mu/ n be acc\nt$ = 9 ! sleeve-l5g?4 ,! squ>e ( ! coat is #ah only1 :i* is less ?an ! regul> calculation w\ld br+ x4 ,an ov]coat mu/ be close-fitt+1 at & ar\nd ! arm1 ?\gh ! armhole mu/ be pl5ty l>ge4 ,dia4 ,x 0 made ov] a #ci patt]n & if t same draft is measur$ & laid out ) a scale ( #ch1 ! squ>e w be #ai1 :i* #ai numb]s correspond to ! squ>e ( #ah on a ?ree-seam]1 tak+ 9 consid]ation ! gore & ! seams "u ! arm on a five-seam]4 ,to cut ov] ,dia4 ,x ! measure mu/ be tak5 close ov] ! und]coat1 & ! measure ov] ! ve/ w make ! fit n too close4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,x4 ,,dia4 ,xa4 ,is a ?ree-seam$ ov]coat1 & mu/ be reproduc$ & made z f9e "w requires x1 & ! p]son :o we>s x mu/ be well built1 & ) a r small wai/ & seat4 ,all clo?+ worn "u ! ov]coat %\ld be neat & well fitt+4 ,erect p]sons %\ld h ! height ( back at #ac4 ,! sleeve %[n 9 ,dia4 ,x corresponds to ,dia4 ,xa4 ,! coll> mu/ be sew$ on easy1 on & along ! sides4 ,! :ole front edge may be made in* small] ?an ,dia4 ,x4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,xa4 ,,dia4 ,,xi4 ,dia4 ,,xi repres5ts ! g>m5t 9 a ?ree-f\r?s circle & on a squ>e ( #bj4 ,! circle itself w\ld make ! ve/ too %ort1 b x repres5ts ! correct run ( ! bottom4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #aa4 ,,dia4 ,,xii4 ,dia4 ,,xii repres5ts ! same z ! =ego+ 9 a ?ree-f\r?s circle1 b on a squ>e ( #ag1 also ! equilat]al triangle ( #ce numb]s4 ,ea* ( ! ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii are "o squ>e cut f ! c5t] ( a circle1 & 9 ord] to make x z simple z possible ! ve/ is aga9 us$4 ,! bottom ( ! =ep>t is on ! circle1 b t w\ld make a %ort ve/1 & = ?is reason ! back %[s #a long]4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #ab4 ,,dia4 ,x,i,ia4 ,dia4 ,x,i,ia is made to illu/rate all po9ts obta9$ f ! c5t] ( a circle1 or f a po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 ,all x requires is to l5g!n ! l9es1 s t !y are long en\gh = ! full scale4 ,any o!r po9t 9 any o!r g>m5t may be f\nd 9 ! same way4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,x,i,ia4 ,,dia4 ,,xiii4 ,?is diagram ,i consid] v valuable = illu/ration1 because x repres5ts an entire g>m5t f neck to ankle 9 "o cont9u\s =m1 & on slopes 9 p]fect h>mony ) ! slopes ( ! body1 runn+ to a po9t at ea* end1 ea* po9t at an angle ( #ae deg41 & bo? jo9$ at ! wide/ "p1 repres5t+ ! l>ge/ "p ( ! body1 b cut (f at ! neck & at ! feet4 ,! upp] "p aga9 repres5ts ! ve/1 z ! simple/ g>m5t worn by man4 ,! />t+ po9t = ! g>m5t is at a po9t :]e ! angle ( #ae deg4 has a wid? ( #ag numb]s4 ,! connect+ po9ts ( ! two angles ( #ae deg4 are at ! front ( ! wai/1 or at ! pit ( ! /oma*1 :]e ! body turns backw>d1 upw>d & d[nw>d1 & at ! l>ge/ "p ( ! seat4 ,! l[] po9t ( ! angle ( #ae deg4 is a c5t] = ! pants1 f :i* c5t] all connection = ! seams may be swept ) c]ta9ty4 ,&1 al?\gh ?is po9t is n conv5i5t to sweep f = e pants we cut1 a cutt] mu/ "k f :at po9t he c obta9 8 balance )\t go+ to ! po9t--all ( :i* is fully describ$ 9 ! article on 8,pants40 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #ac4 ,,dia4 ,,xiv4 ,?is is simply ! l[] "p ( ,dia4 ,,xiii1 b ! sides are closely connect$ on ! angle ( #ae deg41 %[+ ! pants 9 "o solid %eet1 :i* w fit ! =m ( ! b>e body f wai/ to ankle4 ,?is diagram is 9 su* a position t a new beg9n] may le>n h[ to produce a nice slope = ! side seam4 ,b x is int5d$ to s]ve = o!r & m important illu/rations4 ,x is to illu/rate m fully ! s-call$ back slope4 ,! upp] "p1 or ! wai/1 is 9 a p]fect squ>e f ! front base4 ,if ! front & ! back bases are laid on top ( ea* o!r1 all ! sweeps f po9t #hj w fit toge!r & ! :ole front & back w lay 9 position z mo/ all pants are cut4 ,f ! position ( ?is diagram1 !re is no side1 nor back slope2 x is simply a squ>e block1 consequ5tly1 ! s-call$ back slope is only an imag9ation4 ,b ! mo/ important po9t to illu/rate is ! foll[+3 ,consid]+ ! ankles #a in*es ap>t1 w give to ea* side 1 & ! front base l9e w\ld run d[n p>allel ) ! c5t] ( ! front1 ?\gh slant+ backw>d1 & p>allel ) ! front ( ! leg4 ,n[1 x is true1 ! l[] "p ( ,dia4 ,,xiv is on an angle ( #ae deg41 b ! upp] "p is also on a squ>e1 & we w n[ consid] ! back squ>e l9e f9i%$ cle> d[n to ! bottom ( a pants1 & cut out a squ>e %eet ( /iff pap]1 z long z a pants may be & z wide z ! seat requires to g ar\nd x1 say #dj in*es bo? ways1 & place x on & ar\nd ! body ( a p]son ^: front ( abdom5 does n rea* outside ( a /raight l9e1 runn+ p>allel ) ! front slope ( ! legs1 & 9 ?is position ! %eet w fit to ! body all along d[n 9 front1 z well z ! back ( ! wai/ f ! seat upw>d4 ,! c5t] ( ! front & ! c5t] ( ! back run p>allel up & =w>d & ! squ>e %eet w fit x1 b at ! top ( ! side1 & at ! bottom ( ! side & at ! bottom ( ! back ! squ>e %eet1 w\nd ar\nd ! body w be too l>ge1 & mu/ be r$uc$ z foll[s3 ,on top ( side ( wai/ "o or two gores are cut to repres5t ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! seat hip & wai/ measure4 ,! bottom at ! side & at ! back is r$uc$ f a squ>e to a slope ( #ae deg41 all ( :i* is tak5 (f f beh9d4 ,x %\ld be obs]v$ on ,dia4 ,,xiv t ! c5t] ( ! front & ! c5t] ( ! back seams run p>allel upw>d & =w>d above ! seat l9es1 & f ! seat l9es d[nw>d1 bo? ! front & back =ks />t outw>d ( ! squ>e1 all ( :i* is to be turn$ inw>d to pass =w>d & backw>d betwe5 ! legs4 ,! squ>e %eet mu/ be consid]$ = ! outside cov]1 z ?\gh ! legs 7 gr[n toge!r4 ,aga91 a squ>e %eet mu/ be consid]$ s adju/$ to ! upp] body t ! squ>e %eet closes 9 all ar\nd ! front f top to bottom1 & f ! seat to ! wai/ 9 ! back1 b /&s (f at ! bottom beh9d :]e ! squ>e is to be r$uc$ to an angle ( #ae deg4 f seat to bottom4 ,:atev] su* a squ>e1 w\nd ar\nd ! upp] body is too l>ge at ! wai/1 mu/ be r$uc$ by "o l>ge or by two small gores at ! top ( side1 & x w be f\nd t ! r$uction ( ! angle ( #g deg4 is always ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! seat & wai/ measure1 & if ! wai/ is z l>ge z ! seat1 no r$uction is requir$1 & if ! wai/ is l>g] ?an ! seat1 all[ance mu/ be made at ! side & 9 front4 ,if t division is n prop]ly made ! crot* w %[ ! fault1 because ! sides w take up _! %>e1 :e!r !y h too mu* or too little clo?4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,xiv4 ,,dia4 ,,xv4 ,! figure on ?is diagram is poorly drawn1 b x s]ves to illu/rate4 ,x gives ! side view ( ! crot*1 & illu/rates :y a l>g] wai/ mu/ receive m clo? 9 front ?an a normal wai/4 ,fig4 ,i %[s ! pants f ! front or back view1 b ?is gives ! side view1 ! back runn+ backw>d & ! front =w>d & away f ! body4 ,9 ?is position ! pants mu/ be consid]$ z 9 opposite position to ,dia4 ,,xiv1 & connect$ on ! crot* seams4 ,dia4 ,,xv is int5d$ to illu/rate ! bases = ! small wai/ z well z = ! l>ge wai/4 ,on ! small wai/ ! body ( ! wai/ is ev5 ) ! front pants base1 b :5 ! wai/ becomes l>g] ! base w h to be consid]$ z locat$ inside ( ! front ( ! abdom51 z %[n on ! figure4 ,:5 ! base /rikes ! front ( ! body1 z on a small wai/1 ! front c be swung sidewise & backw>d on a /raight l9e1 & ! back c be swung =w>d & sidewise1 b 9 ord] to con=m to ! seat ! back mu/ =m ! sack = ! seat fir/4 ,:5 bo? ! front & ! back is settl$ to ! %ape ( ! body1 ! c5t] ( ea* runs up & d[n & p>allel above ! seat l9e4 ,! l>g] wai/ ext5ds outside ( ! base & aft] ! front is swung sidewise1 to ! side ( ! back1 ! front ( ! pants mu/ be consid]$ to be br\ght =w>d to ! front ( ! body1 ! h+e be+ at ! side1 & :5 ! front ( ! pants is swung =w>d ) ! h+e or sw+ fa/5$ to ! side1 ! c5tre ( front is too small & mu/ be suppli$ ) extra wid?4 ,pants1 z well z coats1 are fitt$ f ! side =w>d to ! front & f ! side backw>d to ! back1 & if ! diamet] ( ! c5t] ( ! body f back to front is l>g] ?an on ! normal =m1 ! ends ( ! front w n rea* ! c5tre ( ! body 9 front & m wai/ proportion mu/ be all[$ !re4 ,! back mu/ be consid]$ /ation>y & requires no all[ance beh9d1 b may require all[ance at ! side if ! wai/ is well fill$ up !re4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xx47 ,9 case ( a back or =w>d lean+ wai/1 ,dia4 ,,xv w %[ t ! crot* mu/ be consid]$ /ation>y1 & ! crot* mu/ also be consid]$ z a h+e on :i* ! upp] body sw+s back & =w>d1 & t if ! backw>d lean+ wai/ requires in* less clo? on top ( front1 ! top ( back mu/ receive t in* aga91 or else ! s-call$ back slope w become too l>ge4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,xv4 ,! descriptions ( ,dias4 ,,xiii1 ,,xiv & ,,xv %\ld be well consid]$ by e cutt]4 ,i h figur$ on !m = ov] twelve ye>s & ! result is "h giv54 ,o!rs might h done x 9 less "t1 b s f> z ,i "k1 nobody has done x yet4 ,,dia4 ,,xvi4 ,dia4 ,,xvi %[s ! front & back ( equal wid? except ! tops ( ea*4 ,,dia4 ,,xvii4 ,?is pres5ts ! small front & wide back4 ,,dia4 ,,xviii4 ,dia4 ,,xviii illu/rates ! pr9ciple ( ! fold 9 ! seat1 & ! back & dress front ne>ly alike4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 #af4 ,dia4 #ag4 ,dia4 #ah4 ,,dia4 ,,xix4 ,repres5ts pants ( ! pres5t /yle & fa%ion4 ,! wai/ is z %ort z x ought to be = f9e pants4 ,contra/ ! l5g? ( ! wai/ ) ,dia1 ,,xxi4 ,dia4 ,,xix is calculat$ = a size #ch seat ) a knee #ai in*es wide4 ,if ?is is laid out ) a #ce scale1 ! knee w become #ag in*es wide1 :i* is a good wid? = a close fitt+ pants1 :i* w soon come 9 /yle aga94 ,:5 small pants legs come 9 /yle aga91 ! crot* ( su* pants w h to be r$uc$ ab\t "o seam1 & at ! bottom ! c5tre w be ! same c5tre1 :ile at ! knee ! c5tre ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 is also a guide1 b !re ! outside requires ab\t less ?an ! inside1 because ! inside ( ! leg is /raight1 :ile ! outside is holl[4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,xix4 ,,dia4 ,,xx4 ,?is diagram 0 made ov] a pants patt]n ( ! foll[+ proportion3 ,seat1 #df 942 ,hip1 #dg2 actual wai/ measure1 #df2 wai/ z made up1 #di 942 knee1 #bb2 & bottom1 #bj 94 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,xx4 ,,dia4 ,,xxi4 ,?is diagram 0 made = ! purpose ( illu/rat+ a pants ) a high wai/1 & h[ x is to be cut on top 9 ord] to h su* a pants feel good ar\nd ! %ort ribs1 & /ill fitt+ at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,! m spr+ su* a pants has ne> ! %ort ribs1 ! bett] x w be4 ,b ! buckle /raps mu/ be set l[1 or at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 s !y d n draw t wid? backw>d4 ,= ! sake ( mak+ a *ange1 ,i h ?r[n ! top ( front ( ! dress side out & ! undress side is to be 4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxi4 ,,dia4 ,,xxii & ,,xxiii4 ,are ! same ?+4 ,!y are "h reproduc$ to give a correct idea ( ! s-call$ 8back slope40 ,bo? are turn$ f po9t #hj1 or f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #g deg4 ,all connections1 or nicks = ! seams are on ! sweeps f po9t #hj4 ,! leg seams are dislocat$1 b ! balance is ! same1 & bo? w fit ! same :5 on ! body1 & ,i claim t !re nev] 0 a tru] pants sy/em produc$ ?an is repres5t$ by ^! two diagrams4 ,! complete angles ( ! diff]5t degrees are n made1 b ! base l9e1 runn+ d[n to #hj1 is on ! same spot on all =ep>ts4 ,f po9t #hj ! =ep>t ( ,dia4 ,,xxii is ?r[n =w>d1 & 9 ,dia4 ,,xxiii x is ?r[n sidewise1 all ( :i* may be imitat$ on a pants leg1 aft] x is sew$ up4 ,n[ x w be notic$ t ea* ( ! two diagrams has a d\ble side1 on :i* x makes no diff]5ce :]e ! nicks are locat$1 z long z !y are on top ( ea* o!r1 b ! disconnect$ sides mu/ be nick$ by ! sweeps f po9t #hj4 ,five ye>s ago ,i s5t ! pr9ciple ( ,dia4 ,,xxii & ,,xxiii to ! publi%] ( ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor10 & ! answ] may be f\nd 9 ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor0 ( ,novemb]1 #ahhf1 page #ih4 ,b z o!r que/ions 7 involv$ 9 ! same article1 & z ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor0 pleas$ to notice me 9 #ahhc ab\t a c]ta9 *all5ge1 ,i w reproduce ! :ole ( x4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,xxii4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,xxiii4 ,illu/ration3 ,,patri>* ,,militant4 ,illu/ration3 ,,cl]gyman',s ,,coat4 ,9 #ahhb ,i _h ! foll[+ adv]tisem5t 9 ! ,tiff9 pap]s1 ( :i* ,i s5t a copy to ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor03 ,,to ,,! ,,public4 ,hav+ sp5t ! be/ "p ( ! la/ t5 ye>s 9 work+ out a sci5tific calculation ( ! outl9es ( ! human body1 ,i h1 aft] endless ups & d[ns1 discov]$1 & work$ out1 an entirely new & h]et(ore un?\ght ( ,,pr9ciple ,,( ,,g>m5t ,,cutt+4 ,i am n[ ready to ann\nce t my cu/om]s may re/ assur$ t !y w n only get a fa%ionable & well made suit ( clo?+1 b t !y %all also feel at home 9 x :5 !y h x on4 ,le/ x be said t ?is is only a new game ( brag1 & to %[ t all pres5t sy/ems :i* are kn[n are )\t a reliable base1 ,i make ! foll[+ ,*all5ge to any ,tailor or ,cutt] ( ,g5ts' ,clo?+ f ,any:]e3 ,to cut & make a frock coat1 a sack coat1 a ve/1 a pair ( pantaloons1 & a :ole g>m5t f neck to ankle )\t any cross seams1 = a p]son ( any %ape or =m1 :om none ( u h ev] measur$ or made clo?+ =1 we w decide by lot-- #a/4 ,by :at sy/em or rule ! coat patt]n %all be cut2 #b;d4 ,! numb] & size ( gores--if any--! =e-p>ts %all h1 & h[ _m seams ! sack coat %all h--#e1 #d1 #c1 #b--or entirely seamless1 except %\ld] & sleeve seams2 #c;d4 ,h[ _m seams ! pants legs %all h2 #d?4 ,all wid?s & l5g?s ( ! sev]al p>ts ( ea* g>m5t2 #e?4 ,all un=ese5 que/ions aris+ f ! above conditions4 ,ea* to pay 8 own exp5ses1 & all goods to be select$ f ! same piece & made up 9 ! same /yle4 ,no g>m5t is to be tri$ on ! p]son x is made = until at a public trial1 :5 ! judges1 select$ by lot & :o mu/ n "k :o made !m1 %all decide1 & _! decision mu/ be f9al4 ,?is *all5ge %all /& good = ?ree mon?s1 unless soon] accept$4 ,g4 ,f4 ,,h]tz]4 ,,tiff91 ,o41 ,janu>y1 #ahhb4 ,to :i* ! 8,am]ican ,tailor0 repli$ 9 ! ,decemb] numb] ( #ahhc1 9 ! foll[+ s>ca/ic /yle3 8,,! ,,*ampion ,,cutt] ,,( ,,am]ica40 8,accord+ to ! rules :i* gov]n sport+ matt]s1 ! t[n ( ,tiff91 ,ohio1 has ! pr\d di/9ction ( be+ ! abid+ place ( ! *ampion cutt] ( ,am]ica4 ,mr4 ,g4 ,f4 ,h]tz]1 ! g5tleman to :om we ref]1 issu$ a *all5ge "s two ye>s ago to all ! cutt]s 9 ! t[n ( ,tiff9 9 p>ticul>1 & ^? :o might be scatt]$ "h & !re ?r\gh ! re/ ( ! _w1 9 g5]al1 to compete ) him 9 a cutt+ mat* "u c]ta9 conditions calculat$ to insure fairness4 ,z ! *all5ge 0 n accept$1 ,mr4 ,h]tz] is1 z we und]/& x1 entitl$ to ! pr\d appellation ( *ampion cutt] ( ,am]ica4 ,x is 9 full accordance ) ! et]nal fitness ( ?+s1 t ! *ampion%ip %\ld be locat$ 9 ,ohio1 & 9 ! lib]ality ( our he>t we are p]fectly will+ t x %\ld rema9 !re4 ,z ,mr4 ,h]tz]'s *all5ge 0 publi%$ 9 a local pap]1 x is )9 ! range ( possibility t x may n h be5 se5 by sev]al cutt]s1 ^: fault or mis=tune x may be1 to dwell outside ( ! prec9cts ( ! t[n ( ,tiff94 ,b1 h[ev]1 ?is may be1 we are prep>$ to admit t x is n likely any cutt] 9 ?is c\ntry1 outside ( ,new ,j]sey1 w\ld h _h ! tem]ity to h accept$ x4 ,mr4 ,h]tz] is1 !re=e1 fully w>rant$ 9 ass]t+ t1 #8?is *all5ge has n be5 accept$ by any "o1 & n[ ,i claim t !re is n a cutt] or tailor inside or outside ( ,tiff91 :o c accept & beat me1 until he has my book on cutt+1 :i*1 9 due "t w be publi%$4' ,ab\t ! only sugge/ion t we are able to (f] ! pr(ession1 by way ( consolation1 is t :5 ,mr4 ,h]tz]'s book %all be publi%$ !y may be enabl$1 by pur*as+ & /udy+ x1 to compete ) ! au?or ) "s fa9t hope ( success4 ,mean:ile1 ,mr4 ,h]tz] we>s1 by virtue ( ! non-acceptance ( 8 *all5ge1 ! sonor\s title ( ! *ampion cutt] ( ,tif--no1 ( ,am]ica4 ,we take (f our hat40 ,illu/ration3 ,,models4 ,illu/ration3 ,,z ,,! ,,coll> ,,%\ld ,,be ,,press$ ,:5 ,i s5t ! pr9ciple ( ,diagrams ,,xxii & ,,xxiii1 ,i enclos$ ! foll[+ adv]tisem5t1 & o!r que/ions1 :i* are expla9$ 9 ! answ]3 8,be ,dilig5t to ,ga9 ,k = ,k is ,p[]40 ,,sev5 ,,p[]ful ,,reasons ,:y ,i claim t ,i _c be beat ,illu/ration ,9 fitt+ g5ts' & boy's g>m5ts & :y ,i claim t ,i c beat any cutt] 9 fitt+ l>ge wai/$ m5 or boys1 & p]sons ) l[ %\ld]s or long necks4 #a4 ,i h sp5t m "t1 m money & m bra9s on ! sci5ce ( g5ts' & boys' g>m5t cutt+ ?an any o!r cutt]2 & ,i c prove x4 #b4 ,i "k m ab\t cutt+ & fitt+ g5ts' & boys' g>m5ts ?an any o!r cutt]1 & ,i *all5ge any "o to disprove t fact4 #c4 ,dur+ ! la/ f\r ye>s ,i h *all5g$ any cutt] or tailor to g ) me 9 a cutt+ mat* & ,i h _h no response4 #d4 ,i c alt] & refit any misfitt+ g>m5t :i* y\r tailor may h spong$ on y z long z !re is clo? en\gh to d x ) & ! victim is will+ to pay = x4 #e4 ,i furni% ! mat]ial = g>m5ts *eap] ?an any o!r m]*ant tailor & *>ge no m = my "w ?an ^? :o _c make ! above claims4 #f4 ,sell+ f samples1 x is my int]e/ to sell fir/-class mat]ial only4 #g4 ,i "w & sell = ca%4 ,! above reasons %\ld induce ev]ybody to entru/ _! next ord] ( clo?+ to y\r ob$i5t s]vant1 ,g4 ,f4 ,,h]tz]4 ,illu/ration3 ,,%\ld]s4 7,f a circul> ( ,wanamak] ,br[n47 ,illu/ration3 ,,pockets4 7,f a circul> ( ,wanamak] ,br[n47 ,! foll[+ sl$ge hamm] bl[s foll[$3 ,f ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor0 ( ,nov4 #ahhf1 page #ih4 ,,answ] ,,to ,,correspond5ts4 ,mr4 ,g4 ,f4 ,h]tz]1 ( ,tiff91 ,ohio1 asks u 9 a rec5t lett]1 to give a comb9ation ( a frock & sack1 hav+ ! same %\ld]s & expla9 ! diff]5ce 9 ! seams & acc\nt = ! /ret*1 or %r9kage ( ! frock coat wai/ seam1 :i* c n be effect$ on a sack4 ,we are by no means c]ta9 t we und]/& :at our correspond5t means1 b we ?9k1 t 9 ! ,may & ,june numb]s ( ?is ,j\rnal = #ahhd we gave ! desir$ in=mation4 ,we _c af=d ! "t to ent] into l5g?y explanations ( a problem unless x is cle>ly /at$1 & ( g5]al int]e/4 ,mr4 ,h]tz] also asks ! foll[+ que/ions3 #a/4 ,:y we give ,f9e ,trade ,designs )\t sleeves8 #b;d4 ,:at we mean by 8half scye40 8,i ask$10 he writes1 8! op9ion ( sev]al cutt]s4 ,"o said x meant ! half measure ( ! armhole1 & ano!r t x meant half ! measure ar\nd ! arm4 ,is ei!r "r8 ,if s1 c y f9d two cutt]s :o w\ld n make "o or two in*es diff]5ce 9 t measure80 ,9 reply to ! fir/ "q we w\ld say t we h b twice giv5 a 8,f9e ,trade ,design0 )\t a sleeve draft4 ,9 "o case we said t ! sleeve %\ld be draft$ z taught 9 8,!ory & ,practice10 b 9 ! o!r omitt$ to d s1 ?9k+1 p]haps unwisely1 t our read]s w\ld und]/& t x %\ld be s draft$4 ,9 reply to ! second "q1 we desire to say t by 8half scye0 we mean half scye1 n half knee1 nor half wai/1 nor half any?+ else4 ,! armhole ( a coat is ! scye1 b a man's arm is n1 !re=e x is absurd to suppose we c\ld mean ! measure ar\nd ! arm4 ,if1 z our correspond5t sugge/s1 !re is a cutt] liv+ :o _c measure ! scye twice )\t a v>iation ( "o or two in*es1 or if !re is a cutt] :o _c measure x fifty times ) less ?an "o-eigh? in* diff]5ce1 t cutt] %\ld devote 8 m9d & muscle to hod c>ry+4 ,our correspond5t s5ds u1 9 8 lett]1 small drafts ( two tr\s]s :i* look unlike ea* o!r1 & asks u to tell him h[ !y diff]1 & if ea* w fit ! same man8 ,!re seems to be no diff]5ce 9 ! drafts1 except 9 ! location ( ! seams4 ,b :e!r !re is or n is ( little consequ5ce4 ,life is too %ort = u to draft ! patt]ns to full size & devote an h\r or s to ! solution ( a problem ( no importance4 ,mr4 ,h]tz] concludes 8 lett] z foll[s3 8,s9ce ! =ego+ 0 writt51 ,i h receiv$ ! #8,,am]ican ,,tailor' = ?is mon? & ,i see t o!rs make ! same reque/ ab\t frock & sack coats4 ,z f> z ,i "k ! diagram on page #gg may be suitable to o!rs1 b ,i am n sm>t en\gh to d]ive any b5efit f x1 = x is n complete--frock coat skirt is n 9 full1 nor are ! fitt+ po9ts giv5 on ! front %\ld]1 & m9us sleeve4 ,%\ld ,i use my own patt]n & fail to make a good sack1 y w\ld say t my patt]ns are n correct1 or t ,i did n foll[ y\r in/ructions4 ,x leaves too _m holes = y to slip out (4 ,n[ if y w\ld give all ! fitt+ po9ts1 !n we w\ld h a fair *ance to try x4 ,?is is pla9 talk1 b y always solicit ! op9ion ( y\r subscrib]s1 & "h is m9e )\t color+40 ,?is 8pla9 talk0 is ab\t z silly z any?+ we ev] read4 ,! draft ref]r$ to is an illu/ration ( h[ to cut a sack by a frock coat patt]n1 & does cle>ly illu/rate x4 ,x 0 n a coat sy/em1 & ! skirt ( a frock coat has no m to d ) x1 ?an a box ( mat*es4 8,if a cutt] drafts a sack z we expla9$ by a poor frock coat patt]n1 he w produce a poor sack1 b if he uses a good model1 he w make a success ( x40 ,we don't 8slip out0 ( any?+1 z our correspond5t intimates1 & c]ta9ly h wisdom en\gh to prev5t our mak+ ourselves ridicul\s by endeavor+ to get d[n to 8 intellectual level4 ,9 an adv]tisem5t :i* 0 enclos$ 9 ! lett] "u discussion1 ,mr4 ,h]tz] says3 8,i h sp5t m "t1 m money1 & m bra9s on ! sci5ce ( g5ts' & boys' g>m5t cutt+ ?an any o!r cutt]4 ,& ,i c prove x40 ,possibly if he _h sp5t less bra9s1 he w\ld h on h& a m lib]al supply1 ?an he seems to h 9 /ock at pres5t4 ,s f> ! columns ( ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor40 ,! foll[+ local appe>$ 9 ! ,tiff9 8,,tribune0 ( ,dec4 #i?1 #ahhf3 ,,talk ,,ab\t ,a ,,tailor4 ,if ,y ,/ep on a ,man's ,corns ,he ,w ,h[l4 ,?is seems to be ! case ) ! editor ( ! ,,am]ican ,,tailor4 ,! ,novemb] numb]1 #ahhf1 ( t j\rnal conta9s ov] a column ( r$ hot %ot aga9/ our t[nsman1 ,g4 ,f4 ,h]tz]1 = hav+ an op9ion ( 8 own1 & claim+ t he has sp5t m 8bra9s0 ov] ! sci5ce ( g5tlem5's & boys' g>m5t cutt+ ?an any o!r cutt]4 ,if ! ,,am]ican ,,tailor wants to prove t ,g4 ,f4 ,h]tz] is 8silly0 & ) 8n mu* bra9s left10 he ought to come out & accept 8 *all5ge = a cutt+ mat*1 & beat him on 8 own gr\nd4 ,ridicul+ him w n am\nt to any?+ z long z ,mr4 ,h]tz] turns out su* nice fitt+ g>m5ts z he does at pres5t4 ,a copy ( :i* 0 s5t to ! editor ( ! ,,am]ican ,,tailor1 & lat] ,i h enclos$ a clipp+ ( x1 9 e lett] :i* ,i h s5t to t (fice1 b ! editor be+ s f> above my intellectual level1 nev] answ]$1 s f> z ,i "k4 ,n[ ,i h a ,*ri/ian _s 9 me1 ev5 if ,i d n come up to be a good ,*ri/ian1 = x is my mis=tune to be always bel[ ! level1 b hav+ receiv$ en\gh slaps to make "o *eek sore1 ,i d n[1 z a true ,*ri/ian1 (f] ! o!r side1 by ask+ m que/ions4 #a/4 ,:y did y use a poor frock coat patt]n1 = illu/ration1 z y indicate1 by say+3 8,if a cutt] drafts a sack z we expla9$ by a poor frock coat patt]n10 etc48 #b;d4 ,w n ! diagram on page #gg 9 ! ,octob] numb] ( #ahhf1 to :i* ,i allud$1 produce ! half sack coat ne>ly in* l>g] ?an ! frock1 by sew+ "o seam less on ! sack8 #c;d4 ,w n ! sack coat armhole be ne>ly in* long] ov] ! back = ! same cause8 #d?4 ,w n ! :ole side ( ! back ( ! sack coat be ne>ly in* long] ?an ! frock = ! same reason aga98 ,illu/ration3 ,,seamless ,,body4 ,! coat1 z repres5t$ by ! above front & back views1 ,i h on h& & int5d to keep x1 & anyone c exam9e x & satisfy himself t x is n misrepres5t$4 ,my int5tion ( mak+ x1 & repres5t+ x 9 ?is book1 0 to illu/rate :at a hot iron & a skilfull workman c d ) a /raight piece ( wool54 #e?4 ,w n ne>ly in* m wid?1 & ne>ly in* m l5g?1 9 a sack coat back1 produce ! sack coat too l>ge ov] ! blade8 #f?4 ,w n ! extra l5g? ( ne>ly in* 9 ! sack back armhole produce too mu* "u sleeve beh9d8 #g?4 ,mu/ n all armholes ( bo? frock & sack coats be ! same1 if "o is to fit z good z ! o!r8 #h?4 ,:5 0 ,miss ,scye born8 ,9 :at diction>y did %e live 9 #ahhf8 ,:]e is h] headqu>t]s n[8 ,is %e s+le1 or is %e m>ri$ to ,mr4 ,arm8 ,,note4--,fig4 ,i & ,fig4 & ,dia4 ,,xv1 & ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,x1 ,,xiv1 ,,xv1 ,,xix1 ,,xx1 ,,xxi1 ,,xxii1 ,,xxiii1 7 drawn & f9i%$ 9 ink by myself1 & !y are 9 my own writ+4 ,all o!rs 7 made by regul> arti/s1 z !y claim$ to be1 aft] my p5cil draw+s4 ,b ! above m5tion$ _h s _m mi/akes t ,i _h to ?r[ !m away & make new draw+s4 ,all ,dia4 9 ! ,supplem5t are my own draw+4 ,x may be t my l9es & figures are n s nicely drawn1 b ,i "k t !y are correct & t !y are pla94 ,x may also be1 t 9 ! op9ion ( "s1 ,i h drawn too _m l9es & put on too _m numb]s1 b ?is book is n writt5 = pr(essors alone1 b = /ud5ts & new beg9n]s 9 cutt+1 z well z = tailors1 & c n be made too pla94 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,"u ,,sack ,,coats4 ,= a ?ree seam$ "u sack1 ,dia4 ,,iii & ,,viii answ] all purposes4 ,! p>ts ( ,dia4 ,,iii place ! height ( back at #ac4 ,a five-seam$ sack is to be made1 = ?ree reasons3 #a/4 ,9 ord] to put 9 m wai/ proportion 9 ! side ( ! wai/4 #b;d4 ,to fit ! ov]-erect =m4 #c;d4 ,to make an ov]coat4 ,! normal =m c be fitt$ ) a ?ree-seam$ "u sack f ! small] sizes up to size #ch1 b ! l>g] sizes out to be cut z five-seam$1 because !y usually require m wai/4 ,x is true small] sizes h sometimes v l>ge wai/s1 b f "o-half to ?ree-f\r?s addition to ! side at l9e #ag w cov] x4 ,boys usually we> sack coats2 &1 guid$ by ?is "w1 ! brea/ measure = a boy %\ld n be tak5 loos] ?an t = a man1 because ! scale ( "o-half brea/ & #b 94 w provide = t1 to ! full ext5t4 ,to make a five-seam$ g>m5t ov] ,dia4 ,,viii1 = ! purpose ( giv+ m wai/ proportion1 simply enl>ge ! squ>e1 say #a in*1 & cut out ! surplus ?us obta9$ f "u ! arm1 or /ill bett]1 leave x on ! coat z an outlet b all[ ! seam on ! "u arm cut4 ,i wi% to add1 h[ev]1 t x is easy to /ret* ! side-piece on ! "u arm cut :5 x is sew$ up1 & x t5ds to improve ! side if prop]ly done2 b if x is /ret*$ at all1 x mu/ be done s upw>d1 & :atev] x is s l5g!n$1 say p]haps half an in*1 mu/ aga9 be r$uc$ ov] ! c5t] ( ! back4 ,all ?is may look trifl+1 b y mu/ rememb] t half an in* m or less clo? 9 ! l5g? ( ! back w make q a *ange 9 ! fit4 ,to make a five-seam$ g>m5t1 = ! purpose ( fitt+ an erect =m1 exam9e ,dia4 ,,viii1 & y w notice a dott$ 8,v0 on l9e #ag1 or at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,at ! side seam ?is w$ge is five-eigh?s ( an in*1 & to fit ! erect =m ?is w$ge mu/ be fold$ up 9 ! patt]n2 & to accompli% ?is on a flat pap] ! patt]n mu/ be cut ?r\gh "u ! arm & above ! po9t ( ! w$ge1 :5 ! fold c be laid smoo?ly1 b ! patt]n w divide at ! arm z an artificial gore1 repres5t+ ! gore sidewise4 ,! squ>e w enl>ge 9 proportion to ! gore cut1 & ! upp] portion ( ! back w fall d[nw>d & %ort5 f its orig9al position five-eigh?s1 or ! wid? ( ! fold at ! side seam4 ,b al?\gh ! back appe>s to %ort5 on top x reta9s its balance ov] ! %\ld] blade4 ,! actual %ortness is at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,9 fold+ up ! gore across ! side piece w cause ! side piece to make a %>p curve at ! side1 & a %>p holl[ or k9k beh9d1 & bo? mu/ be /raight5$ by cutt+ away ! curve at ! side & by fill+ out ! holl[ beh9d1 s t ! "u arm cut w repres5t two /raight l9es4 ,9 regulat+ ! "u arm gore1 two seams mu/ aga9 be all[$ at ! armhole1 & ! balance may be cut away1 or x may be us$ z an outlet1 :i* may come v h&y sometimes4 ,9 sew+ up t gore1 ! side piece usually /ret*es easily upw>d1 say ano!r ?ree-eigh?s1 & said ?ree-eigh?s mu/ aga9 be tak5 away f ! l5g? ( ! back ov] ! %\ld] blade1 & = ?is reason ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia has ! height ( back at #ab1 or #a less ?an ,dia4 ,,viii4 ,= fur!r explanation ( ?is fif? sack coat seam1 or "u arm gore1 & z to ! diff]5ce betwe5 ! erect & ! l>ge wai/$ =m1 ,i ref] to ! article on l>ge wai/s4 ,l>ge wai/s & erect =ms are mo/ly comb9$ 9 "o p]son1 because :5 a p]son's wai/ gr[s =w>d ! %\ld]s ?r[ !mselves backw>d1 9 ord] to keep ! body 9 balance1 & if ?is w\ld n be ! case1 a l>ge wai/$ p]son w\ld tumble =w>d unless support$ by some?+ else4 ,anybody c see h[ ?is works4 ,take a normal wai/$ =m ) a coat :i* fits well 9 ! back & place a sack ( fl\r1 or any o!r weight ( fifty p\nds1 9 front ( ?is wai/1 support$ by ! arms1 & ! :ole upp] body w ?r[ itself backw>d 9 ord] to keep its balance1 & ! back ( ?is coat w become too long across ! holl[ ( ! wai/ beh9d1 because ! front ( ! coat _c /ret* l ! body itself4 ,diagram ,v,i,i,ia is made especially = ! erect =m1 & is 9 all respects l ,dia4 ,,viii except ! 8,v0 clos$ up across ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & ! ?ree-eigh?s /ret* ( ! side piece upw>d1 & ! consequ5t %ort5+ ( ! back ( #a4 ,! diff]5ce at ! front edge _c be consid]$ a fitt+ po9t4 ,if ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia is us$ = a l>ge wai/$ =m1 :i* is mo/ly always erect1 !n ! gore betwe5 ! back & side piece %\ld be cut l ,dia4 ,,viii1 or ne>ly s4 ,9 all cases1 :5ev] ! wai/ becomes full]1 or ! p]son m erect1 ! spr+ ov] ! seat may be enl>g$1 & if x becomes too l>ge1 x is less tr\ble to r$uce x ?an if ! spr+ is too small4 ,a good outlet ov] ! seat & c5t] ( back ( a sack coat comes v h&y sometimes1 b su* a seam %\ld be sew$ by h&1 because ! ma*9e w usually cut its edges4 ,n[1 9 consid]+ ! above1 a cutt] mu/ obs]ve if ! =m he int5ds to fit is erect or /oop+1 or l>ge wai/$1 or if !re is a comb9ation ( su*1 or o!r abnormal conditions4 ,! s+le erect1 or /oop+1 or l>ge wai/1 or long or %ort neck$ p]son is v seldom to be f\nd2 !re is mo/ly a comb9ation ( two or ?ree abnormal conditions comb9$ 9 "o p]son4 ,! gores betwe5 ! back & ! =e "p ( bo? ,dia4 ,,viii & ,v,i,i,ia are cut out pretty close at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & x w nev] hurt any sack1 cut ov] ei!r ( !m1 to h "o-half in* m at l9e #ag4 ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia may be us$ = ! normal =m1 provid+ ! dep? ( ! back is made #ab numb]s above l9e #i1 & ,i h (t5 us$ x = su* ) good results4 ,a sack coat ) two seams & :i* is int5d$ to con=m p>tly to ! holl[ ( ! wai/ 9 ! back mu/ h a spr+ ov] ! c5t] ( ! seat1 />t+ at ! mo/ holl[ "p ( ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,said spr+ _c be obta9$ by all[+ x at ! side ( ! back :i* may be six or sev5 in*es wide4 ,ev5 if said spr+ 7 able to pu% ! coat back ov] ! seat x w\ld at ! same "t pu% ! coat upw>d & backw>d & away f ! wai/1 & make x too wide & too long !re4 ,! only way to make su* a coat good is to cut ! spr+1 int5d$ = ! c5t] ( ! back1 at ! side1 & /ret* ! side ( ! back1 "u ! iron1 & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & press ! :ole back 9 ! %ape ( ! patt]n z 9 ,dia4 ,,viii & d$uct ! seam beh9d4 ,sacks )\t any d[nw>d seams w nev] be 9 dem& until we come clos] to ori5tal fa%ions1 or until we fall back ^u cloaks4 ,= ! purpose ( f9d+ out h[ close ,i c\ld come to mak+ a reasonably good fitt+ sack 9 ! back ( ! wai/1 )\t any seams d[nw>d1 ,i h made f\r ( !m dur+ ! la/ #ab ye>s4 ,! fir/ "o ,i _h to rip up aga9 & make x up into a small] size z a ?ree seam]4 ,! second & ?ird ,i sold z *eap coats & ! pur*as]s nev] f\nd out t !y wore seamless coats4 ,!y 7 bett] ?an a great _m five seam]s se5 on ! /reet1 ?\gh !y 7 loose coats at & ar\nd ! back ( ! wai/4 ,"o ( !m ,i _h photograph$ on myself1 bo? front & back views1 & h ! photo /ill 9 my possession4 ,"o back & "o front view ,i s5t to ! (fice ( ! !n 8,,am]ican ,,tailor10 & a lett] 9 my possession says t !y consid] x a good fit = su* a coat4 ,! la/ seamless coat ,i made la/ summ]1 #ahia1 & h x on h& n[1 & ,i int5d to keep x at lea/ = ! pres5t4 ,a front & a back view ( t coat w be f\nd 9 8,figures & ,diagrams40 ,= ! la/ six mon?s ,i h kept x = a %[ coat1 ) a c>d on x (f]+ #be to any cutt] or tailor :o w make "o l x1 & :i* fits z good or bett]4 ,s f> ,i h _h no call = ! #be1 nor did ,i expect a response1 because x w n pay anybody to make "o ev5 = #be1 & risk a fit4 ,i made ! (f] to adv]tise my "w1 t 0 all4 ,! fit ( a seamless coat mu/ be put 9 by ! mak]1 & x takes a cutt] & a mak] :o kn[s :at he is ab\t1 & "o :o don't c>e h[ long x takes to make "o & :at x co/s2 9 fact1 x mu/ be a "w done = pleasure--n = pr(it1 except p]haps to ga9 k1 = 8,k is ,p[]40 ,n[ ,i w give a description ( h[ su* a coat may be made3 ,select a good fitt+ sack coat patt]n ) ?ree seams1 & "o :i* is n cut v close at ! side ( ! wai/1 t is a sack cut pretty /raight4 ,! "o ,i h on h& n[ is cut ov] ,dia4 ,,viii1 & z size #cf4 ,! height ( ! back above l9e #i ov] ! front %\ld n be ov] #ac1 b ! top ( ! back %\ld be plac$ at #b1 s t ! portion ov] ! blade is %ort & ! top ( back cut close to ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 ,if ! top ( back becomes too close to ! neck1 x c be cut d[n aft] ! coat is tri$ on4 ,on acc\nt ( ! %ort back1 ! armhole mu/ be cut pretty l[ & well =w>d4 ,! front mu/ also be cut l>ge & fitt$ to ! body aft] ! back has be5 regulat$4 ,aft] ! patt]n is ?us cut1 proce$ z foll[s3 ,close ! back & ! front f ! bottom to ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 lapp+ ! seams2 at ! bottom ( ! armscye ! front & back w lap ov] ab\t #a in*2 fit ! patt]n to ! back s t "o seam is d$uct$ f beh9d at ! neck & at lea/ two seams at ! bottom1 s t ! holl[ ( wai/ %[s z little surplus clo? z possible4 ,ov] ! seat1 ! clo? may be /ret*$ 9 wid?1 ?us obta9+ "s artificial spr+ ov] ! seat4 ,cut ! back1 & ! back ( ! armhole to )9 #a in* to ! front ( ! armhole & n q z deep z ! patt]n4 ,9 cutt+ ! patt]n ! back %\ld] seam mu/ be cut pretty l[ at ! armhole & %\ld be at lea/ z l[ z #h = ! reason t ! lap ( ! patt]n at ! side seam w br+ bo? back & front %\ld] seam too close toge!r & w\ld h to be piec$1 b if ! back %\ld] seam is ?r[n d[n1 & ! front up1 bo? w come out "r4 ,n[ ! next ?+ to be obs]v$ is to make an artificial w$ge ( :atev] ! back & ! =ep>t lap at ! bottom ( ! armscye1 runn+ out to no?+ at ! wai/4 ,?is mu/ be done by /ret*+ ! bottom ( ! armhole 9 wid?1 & :i* /ret* mu/ be ext5d$ d[n to ! wai/1 b no?+ mu/ be /ret*$ at ! wai/1 = ! wai/ is too wide already1 ow+ to ! holl[ ( ! back1 9 ! patt]n :i* c n be imitat$ on ! /raight coat back4 ,t /ret* mu/ />t at ! po9t ( ! %\ld] blade say ab\t #d 94 f ! c5t] ( ! back1 & mu/ cont9ue to ! front ( armhole4 ,! /ret* w ?r[ ! front ( armhole =w>d ( :atev] ! /ret* am\nts to1 & = ?is reason1 ! front ( ! armhole mu/ be cut #a 94 backw>d1 ( :at x is int5d$ to be4 ,aft] t artificial w$ge is /ret*$ 91 ! back side seam may be m>k$ & /it*es drawn 91 & ! =ep>t fitt$ to x & ! front ( armhole may be cut complete4 ,t all ( ?is c n be done )\t try+ on ev] s _m times is self evid5t4 ,o!rwise su* a job mu/ be made ( mat]ial :i* /ret*es well1 & mu/ be made up ?9 & ! l9+ put 9 pl5ty l>ge1 s x c give1 & x w\ld be be/ to make up )\t l9+4 ,no?+ c be accompli%$ by %r9k+4 ,ev]y?+ mu/ be done by /ret*+4 ,pl5ty outlets %\ld be left at ! neck & %\ld] seams & 9 front ( ! brea/4 ,su* a coat c n be fitt$ on ! cutt+ bo>d1 b mu/ be fitt$ on ! body4 ,may be x is nons5se to write ab\t a seamless coat1 b ,i h se5 s _m absurd ideas advanc$ ab\t cutt+ g>m5ts1 t ?is may n be ! wor/4 ,b a cutt] :o kn[s ! true diff]5ce betwe5 coats ) diff]5t seams1 c]ta9ly kn[s m ?an if he is compell$ to swall[ any?+ ! ,fa%ion ,reports please to di% out = u1 9 ! %ape ( diagrams = new 8,/yles40 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,n>r[ ,,& ,,broad ,,backs4 ,9 ! position ( ,dia4 ,i or ,,iv1 x makes little diff]5ce if a back is cut n>r[] or wid] at ! bottom ( ! armhole1 because all p>ts lie ne> to _! natural position1 :i* !y mu/ assume :5 ! g>m5t is on ! body4 ,a n>r[] & a broad] frock coat back1 cut ) ! same gore & ) ! same height z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii is apt to *ange ! fit & may spoil x entirely4 ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii1 ,,iii & ,,iv %[ a diff]5t height ( ! back4 ,9 ,dia4 ,i ! height ( front is #i & t ( ! back is #ad4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,iv ! height ( back is #ad on l9e #i 9 front4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,ii ! height ( back is #ae1 b at ! junction ( ! back & ! sidepiece ! l9e is dislocat$ & turn$ up1 #ae deg4 along ! back4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,iii ! frock coat back is #ad above l9e #i1 & ! sack coat back is only #ac above l9e #i1 ?\gh bo? sack & frock coat backs are ev51 & ! same1 f top4 ,! diff]5ce ( di/ance1 to ! po9t1 :]e bo? /rike l9e #i on ! front is caus$ by ! small] frock coat back & ! wid] sack coat back at _! junction1 & t position mu/ be well und]/ood by a cutt]1 because mo/ all diagrams s5t out by ,report]s ( ,fa%ions are laid out 9 position z ,dia4 ,,ii1 or ne>ly s1 n because x is a true position1 b1 because all p>ts c be cut )\t piec+4 ,n[1 x mu/ be admitt$1 t ! position ( ! front1 ! back & ! sidepiece ( ,dia4 ,i are ne>] 9 position to ! body1 at1 & ar\nd ! wai/1 ?an ,dia4 ,,ii or ,,iii1 & ?\gh ,dia4 ,i is n 9 p]fect h>mony ) ! body1 we mu/ admit1 t ,dia4 ,,ii & ,,iii are f> m out ( ! way4 ,x w be se51 t if ! frock coat back ( ,dia4 ,i 7 cut #a 94 wid] at ! junction ) l9e #i ov] ! front1 x w\ld become %ort] on top z soon z x 0 ?r[n 9 position ( ,dia4 ,,ii1 & ! v>iation w\ld be /ill great]1 if x 7 done on a broad sack coat back4 ,obs]ve t ! frock coat back 9 ,dia4 ,,iii is high] on & above l9e #i1 b :5 bo? are ?r[n d[n & 9 at ! wai/ & p>allel ) ! front base1 bo? w assume ! same height4 ,z long z all ! p>ts are cut 9 ! same proportion1 x matt]s little or no?+ 9 :at position we place !m on ! cutt+ bo>d1 b x matt]s a great deal :e!r !y are 9 ! "r position :5 on ! body4 ,! angle ( #ace deg4 is always ! same1 & f x ! %\ld] slope is #bb deg41 b1 if we take ! squ>e ( #ag & make calculations f t base1 ! %\ld] slope is #cj deg41 b ! p>ts are all ! same4 ,z long z ! diagrams are laid out 9 a squ>e ( #bj1 z ,dia4 ,i & ,,iv1 ! back may be made a trifle n>r[] or wid]1 & x w n endang] ! fit ( ! g>m5t1 al?\gh x is always bad policy to *ange a diagram1 & p>ticul>ly a curv$ seam4 ,a seam always repres5ts some?+ tak5 out1 or some?+ plac$ !re1 & a seam calculat$ = a c]ta9 po9t1 & #a 94 "o way or ! o!r may make a decid$ *ange 9 ! appe>ance1 or 9 ! fit4 ,! simple/ g>m5t is ! ve/ z f> z ,m]*ant ,tailor+ goes2 b simple z x is1 !re are seldom two cutt]s :o produce x 9 ! same way1 & ) ! same result2 & ! same is true ( coat & pants4 ,?is goes f> to %[ t no true sy/em ( g>m5t-cutt+ is 9 exi/5ce1 or if x be1 x is 9 ! h&s ( cutt]s :o d n "k x z su*1 ev5 by ^? :o may use x--c]ta9 x is1 t no su* sy/em is 9 pr9t4 ,n[1 ,i w consid] ! ve/ 9 its natural position1 on a squ>e ( #bj1 al?\gh ! gore "u ! arm w br+ x out ( t position aga9 z soon z ! seam is sew$ up4 ,back & front be+ 9 _! natural positions1 or ne>ly s1 we c cut ! "u arm seam fur!r backw>d or =w>d )\t injury to ! fit4 ,b z soon z we make ! wid? ( ! back consid]ably wid] or small]1 we f9d t ! height ( ! back above ! arm-hole *anges--:5 ! back is ?r[n into an angle ( #ae deg41 or 9 a squ>e ( #ag4 ,! small] ! back is cut1 on ! squ>e ( #bj1 ! %ort] x w become above ! armscye1 :5 ?r[n 9 a squ>e ( #ag1 provid+ always t ! turn+ ( ! back />ts some:]e at l9e #i1 :i* crosses l9e #aa "u ! armhole1 at an angle ( #ae deg4 ,:5 bo? frock & sack backs are ?r[n d[nw>d & 9 a squ>e ) l9e #i1 or p>allel to ! front base1 !n x w be f\nd t ! backs are all ( ! same l5g?4 ,fur!r1 ,i ref] to ,dia4 ,,iii1 & l9e #i on ! front base4 ,l9es #i & #aa cross ea* o!r 9 ! c5t] ( a squ>e ( #bj1 & ! cross+ l9es are at an angle ( #ae deg41 = ! simple reason t _! bases are #ae deg4 ap>t4 ,! wid? ( an angle ( #ae deg4 is ( its l5g?4 ,9 ! case ( =m+ a diagram )9 a circle1 & on a diamet] ( #bj units1 z 9 ?is "w1 we f9d ! half-diamet] #aj units1 or #aj 941 or #aj numb]s ( ! scale1 j z we may please to t]m x4 ,t angle ( #ae deg4 is #b 94 wide at #aj 94 l5g?4 ,x spreads ( an in* 9 e in* ( its l5g?4 ,n[1 9 case ( cutt+ a ve/1 ! back & front are cut ?r\gh 9 ! c5t] ( ! squ>e ( #bj on l9e #i1 & if ! back is swung into a squ>e ( #ag & p>allel to l9e #aa1 ! height ( back rema9s #ad4 ,b _h ! back be5 cut #a 94 wid]1 its height w\ld be #ad2 & _h x be5 #a 94 small]1 ! height w\ld be #ac4 ,_h ! back be5 cut #c 94 small]1 z = a sack coat1 its height w\ld become #ac1 & _h ! back be5 cut #f 94 small]1 t is1 #d 94 wide1 !n its height w\ld become #ab only4 ,?is is a regul> 8,fig4-mill10 & has be5 bo!r+ me = ! la/ t5 ye>s1 & /range z x may appe>1 ,i c\ld nev] compreh5d x myself1 mu* less expla9 x to o!rs1 until n[ & dur+ ! ye>s ( #ahhh & #ahhi4 ,"h1 !n1 is ! result3 ,if we h a good patt]n we _c *ange ! wid? ( ! back :ile x rema9s 9 an angle ( #ae deg41 or 9 a squ>e ( #ag1 )\t *ang+ ! height above ! armscye4 ,all patt]ns1 or mo/ all ( !m1 are cut 91 or pretty ne>ly 9 ! position ( ! angle ( #ae deg41 or ! squ>e ( #ag1 = ! reason t x is ! mo/ conv5i5t way ( cutt+4 ,a cutt] mu/ und]/& t2 &1 al?\gh x is conv5i5t to ! cutt]1 ! p>ts ( ! g>m5t are 9 an unnatural position at ! wai/1 & he mu/ be able to "k h[ mu* !y are at v>iance4 ,dur+ ! la/ t5 ye>s ,i h be5 pron\nc$ z a 8crank0 :5 ,i claim$ t ,i w\ld yet %[1 t ! height ( ! top ( ! back dep5d$ ^u its wid? at ! bottom ( ! armscye & n ^u c]ta9 pro( measures :i* are n pro( at all4 ,z to 8crankism10 ,i c console myself ) ! ho/ ( 8cranks0 :o h prec$$ me1 & :o are to-day revolutioniz+ ! _w ) _! s-call$ cranky ideas4 ,if x 7 n = ! 8cranks10 ! ox5 w\ld /ill be ! pr9cipal 8?re%]s0 ( ! :eat to-day4 ,p]sons ( small m9ds1 & contract$ ideas1 :o h nev] _h an idea :i* !y c\ld sell = any?+1 or :i* anybody w\ld accept = no?+1 are ! ones :o are quick ) reproa*+ ano!r = be+ 8cranks40 ,b ! t]m 8crank0 has no reproa* = me1 because all ! v>i\s ma*9]y :i* is us$ ?r\gh\t ! _w to-day is turn$ & kept 9 motion by "s k9d ( a crank1 no matt] if x be turn$ by h&1 or foot1 or by horse or /eam p[]1 or by electricity4 ,)\t 8cranks0 ! _w's ma*9]y w\ld soon ru/1 b z long z ! boil] is n bur/$1 or ! crank is n brok51 j s long w we be kept fly+1 & by con/ant friction1 we w be kept bright1 & we %all be able to fulfill our de/9y 9 ?is _w1 by do+ our %>e t[>d mak+ mank9d1 :atev] ! ,supreme ,ar*itect has orda9$ x to be4 ,g>m5t fitt+ is n a positive rule4 ,a g>m5t is n made ( %eet iron1 :]e e sixte5? ( an in* v>iation w\ld give a great am\nt ( friction4 ,a g>m5t t _c /& "o-eigh? to "o-f\r? ( an in* v>iation on almo/ any po9t is a misfit f ! />t4 ,aga91 ! pres5t /yle ( m5's g>m5ts is loose--always has be5 & always w be4 ,ev5 :5 tight pants 7 9 fa%ion !y 7 loose ov] ! body itself4 ,:o w be umpire 9 ! case ( fits8 ,:o w prove t a c]ta9 pants leg mu/ be j s wide 9 ord] to make a fit1 or con=m to /yle8 ,:o w cont5d t ! wai/ ( a coat mu/ h j s mu* space1 & no m nor less1 to make a fit8 ,almo/ any reasonably well fitt+ coat c /& a little alt]ation 9 ! heigh? ( ! neck "o way or ano!r )\t injur+ x4 ,a well balanc$ #cf coat w hang well on sizes #ce & #cg4 ,if t is ! case 7& v few w dispute x71 !n x proves t a well balanc$ coat may be an excell5t fit ev5 if x has m or less clo? surface 9 "s places ?an x might h4 ,dia4 ,,iii is especially made to illu/rate my idea ab\t ! wid? ( ! back "p ( diff]5t g>m5ts1 at ! bottom ( ! armscye4 ,! ve/1 ) its height ( back at #ad1 might also be plac$ !reon1 b x is n1 because ,i ?\ght too _m l9es w\ld spoil ! illu/rations4 ,9 practical g>m5t cutt+1 a cutt] is (t5 compell$ to cut "s backs n>r[] or small] on ! same k9d ( a g>m5t 9 ord] to save mat]ial1 or 9 "s cases1 :5 a l>g] g>m5t is to be cut d[n to a small] size1 :]e ! po9ts ar\nd ! back ( ! armhole1 or at ! %\ld]s1 _c be made ev5 ) our patt]ns1 !n x comes h&y = a cutt]1 if he be able1 to place c]ta9 quantities on ei!r back or front & take x (f on ! o!r4 ,:5ev] t has to be done1 lay y\r g>m5ts1 or ! patt]n1 out 9 a squ>e ( #bj or its equival5t1 & *ange ! p>ts 9 t position1 & ! l5g?s ( ! backs w take c>e ( !mselves4 ,?is br+s me to ano!r po9t4 ,an extremely broad frock coat back at ! bottom l9e ( ! armhole requires a pretty /raight sidepiece t[>d ! back1 & su* a seam may be ! bett] (f1 if ! back is held a trifle full ov] ! blade2 :ile an extremely n>r[ frock coat back requires a v curv$ sidepiece t[>d ! back1 & su* a back %\ld be ba/$ or sew$ pretty close on ! sidepiece t[>d ! blade4 ,ea* ( su* backs assumes a diff]5t height ( back :5 laid out 9 ! angle ( #ae degrees1 & ea* requires a diff]5t treatm5t :5 sew$ on ! sidepiece4 ,all ! heights ( ! frock & sack coat backs 9 ?is "w are calculat$ to be ( c]ta9 wid? at l9es #i & #aa ov] ! front1 & all back wid?s at t po9t %\ld be z %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,! sw+ ( ! back1 or ! turn+ po9t ( x1 is calculat$ f l9e #i1 no matt] if ! back lays 9 a squ>e ( #bj1 or if ! back "p ( t l9e be turn$ #ae degrees4 ,no article 9 ?is "w is m important ?an ?is "o1 & e cutt] %\ld make himself ?or\ghly famili> ) its mean+1 because x is a new idea 9 g>m5t cutt+1 & ,i w pr$ict t 9 ! ,tw5tie? ,c5tury all cutt]s w recognize t pr9ciple4 ,x may be br\ght to a f9] po9t1 b ! pr9ciple w /& z long z ! squ>e & ! compass are recogniz$ & us$4 ,nei!r d ,i expect su* recognition )\t "s 8tall kick+0 = few m5 w ackn[l$ge t !y h be5 grop+ 9 ! d>k :ile !y h be5 claim+ t !y knew all t is wor? kn[+ ab\t g>m5t cutt+4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,neckhole ,,& ,,%\ld] ,,seam4 ,if x is n desir$ to connect ! sleeve patt]n into ! armhole & on bo? seams1 ! %\ld] seam may be cut into any %ape or =m z long z ! balance is reta9$2 b :5ev] we int5d to connect ! sleeve ) ! armhole1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii or ,,vii1 we mu/ cut ! normal %\ld] seam ) a lap or spr+ ( f ?ree-eigh?s to "o-half at ! neck1 & :i* lap mu/ be run d[n fully to ! middle ( ! %\ld] seam & !n r$uc$ to no?+ at ! armhole1 & 9 su* a %ape t ! front "p is on a curve4 ,on a ve/ ! angle ( #ace degrees furni%es ! correct slope1 & ) ! neck b& prop]ly work$ & turn$ up1 gives en\gh spr+ ar\nd ! side ( ! neck4 ,b a ve/ coll> & necktie give m bulk1 & a coat is also cut clos] to ! c5t] ( ! neck1 & consequ5tly a coat requires m wid?1 or spr+1 9 & on top ( ! %\ld] seam1 ( :i* ?ree-eigh?s is en\gh & five-eigh?s n too mu*1 b x is always bett] to cut t "p close1 s t ! coll> may be sew$ on easily2 t is1 ! sides ( ! neck /ret*$ say ab\t "o-qu>t] ( an in*4 ,aga91 ! coat coll> gives m bulk ?an ! ve/ coll> & = ?is reason ! ov]coat requires ?ree-f\r?s spr+1 z 9 ,dia4 ,x1 :i* is cut /ill clos] to ! neck4 ,policy1 no d\bt1 has caus$ ! fa%ionable %\ld] seam to be ?r[n backw>d ( ! c5t] ( ! %\ld]1 = ! reason t x passes ne>] to ! %\ld] blade1 & a curv$ %\ld] seam helps to fit x4 ,if ! %\ld] seam 7 locat$ on top ( ! %\ld]s x c\ld n be curv$1 b w\ld necess>ily be holl[ 9 ! c5t]1 ?\gh ! back & front lap at ! neck4 ,! position ( ! %\ld] seam z 9 ,dia4 ,,ii all[s ! sleeve to be connect$ ) ! coat on bo? ! back & front seams1 & ! lap ( sleeve & %\ld] give ! sleeve en\gh wid? = all full+ purposes1 & ! sleeve c nev] be too l>ge or too small4 ,i h tri$ my utmo/ to lay ! %\ld]s 9 su* a position t no lap w\ld be f\nd at ! %\ld] seam2 b1 aft] ,i consid]$ t ! back is nev] cut on ! %\ld]s1 ,i came to ! conclusion t ! said spr+ might j z well be !re1 inasmu* z by its use a m correct sleeve connection c be made4 ,on acc\nt ( ! lap betwe5 ! back & front at ! %\ld] seam ! top ( t seam at ! neck c n prop]ly be connect$1 & = ?is reason %\ld be not*$ at ! c5t]4 ,! lap betwe5 ! back & front ( ! %\ld] seam & t[>d ! neck may be acc\nt$ = 9 a diff]5t way1 & z foll[s3 ,! diamet] ( ! body at ! c5t] ( ! back & c5t] ( front is almo/ d\ble :at x is at ! arms1 & if we turn ! back =w>d & ! front backw>d s t bo? meet at ! %\ld] seams1 !n ! c5t] ( ! body1 or ! side ( ! neck1 requires a long] sw+ ?an ! side ( ! body at ! arms1 h5ce ! ?ree to five-eigh?s m at ! neck4 ,! five-eigh?s lap at ab\t eight numb]s f ,o1 may also be acc\nt$ = z be+ requir$ = ! r\ndness ( ! %\ld] blade1 :i* is p>tially rea*$ by ! %\ld] seam ( a coat4 ,betwe5 ! top ( ! %\ld] seam & eight numb]s f ,o1 ! lap1 ( :atev] x is made1 %\ld n be ev51 b %\ld be a trifle less a few in*es bel[ ! neck1 say "o-eigh? to ?ree-sixte5? ( an in*1 z %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,?is w give ! f9i%$ %\ld] a bett] appe>ance ?an if cut & made flat4 ,! %\ld]s are holl[ !re1 & ! coat mu/ con=m to t1 because a coat mu/ fit !re to ! body & mu/ be made to fit to ! body !re1 x mu/ hang & balance itself !re1 & if x don't fit !re x mu/ make a break1 & 9 fact ?is is ! only place :]e a coat is requir$ to actually fit ! body4 ,! %\ld] seam = a ve/ mu/ also be consid]$ 9 p>ticul>4 ,dia4 ,,iv gives ! ve/ %\ld] seam )\t lap or gore ^u ! angle ( #ace degs41 & ! top ( back is cut z wide1 at po9t #e1 z ! angle ( #de degs41 & x may be cut "o-half in* wid] 9 ord] to br+ x fully to ! side ( ! neck1 :]e ! spr+ is requir$1 b x %\ld n be ov] #c numb]s4 ,dia4 ,,iv requires t 9 f9i%+ ! neck1 ! neckb& mu/ be cut long & sew$ on full at ! %\ld] seam1 say "o-qu>t] in*1 or pla9]1 ! back %\ld be /ret*$ t mu* at & close to ! %\ld] seam4 ,if a cutt] pref]s to sew ! neck b& ev5 on ! back1 he mu/ all[ "o-qu>t] to ?ree-eigh?s spr+ at ! top ( ! %\ld] seam1 & at ! back1 />t+ x ab\t two in*es d[nw>d4 ,n[ x w be f\nd t by r$uc+ ! spr+ at ! neck ( a coat to no?+1 b leav+ ! five-eigh?s lap t[>d ! blade1 ! great majority ( /oop+ =ms may be fitt$1 = x makes ! front %\ld] %ort]1 & t is all t a =w>d lean+ neck requires4 ,/oop+ p]sons (t5 ?r[ _! %\ld]s up1 & su* mu/ be consid]$ a comb9ation ( /oop+ & squ>e %\ld]s4 ,! lap ( f ?ree to five-eigh?s mu/ always dep5d ^u h[ ! coll> is sew$ on4 ,a ?ree-eigh?s lap & "o-qu>t] /ret* ( ! neck-hole makes a bett] %\ld] ?an a five-eigh?s lap ) ! coll> sew$ on close4 ,a tight coll> ar\nd ! back & side w always spoil ! %\ld]4 ,if a coat be too wide !re1 sew 9 ! %\ld] seam1 b nev] draw 9 ! side or ! back ( ! neck ) a %ort coll>4 ,a squ>e %\ld] may be produc$ by a lap ( "o-half betwe5 ! back & front %\ld] seam t[>d ! %\ld] blade1 & no lap at ! neck1 & plac+ top ( back at #c4 ,! armhole itself mu/ be ! same = bo? ! squ>e & = ! l[ %\ld]1 or ! long neck4 ,! lap ( ! %\ld] seam requires t seam to be nick$ z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,x is bett] all ar\nd if ! j\r4 has a sure po9t at ! middle to connect said seam1 :5 he c ba/e up & d[n4 ,he is less apt to ?r[ "o side up & ! o!r d[n ?an if he makes ! connection at ! neck or at ! armhole4 ,to connect ! %\ld] seam ) a satisfactory result1 squ>e up f l9e #aa & 9 front ( armhole1 & nick ea* back & ea* front on said l9e1 :i* is ev51 to mov+ ! =ep>t d[n on ! front plumb l9e until ! %\ld]s meet4 ,9 sew+ ! %\ld] seam toge!r ! back %\ld always be a trifle ! fulle/1 because ! back passes ov] ! r\nd %\ld] blade & ! front passes ov] ! holl[ on top ( ! %\ld]s1 & %\ld be /ret*$ a trifle4 ,by a trifle ,i mean ab\t "o-eigh? ( an in* on ea* side ( ! nick4 ,locat+ ! connect+ po9t at ! c5t] 9 ! %\ld] seam1 ! j\r4 mu/ be in/ruct$ to ba/e up & d[n1 & if any "p is too wide at ! neck or at ! armhole1 to trim x (f or let x /& z an outlet1 b 9 all cases insi/ t bo? neck & armhole mu/ h a nice slope aft] ! coll> is sew$ on1 or ! sleeve is sew$ 94 ,if ! cutt+ is done accord+ to ?is "w1 !re w be no tr\ble 9 obta9+ a nice r\nd armhole4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,coll>s4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,vii47 ,all top coll>s %\ld be cut bias & )\t a seam beh9d4 ,all "u coll>s %\ld be put on r loose1 b n full1 at ! side ( ! neck4 ,! pr9ciple ( a /&+ coll> mu/ be well und]/ood1 = x is a p]man5t ?+1 & to be appli$ equally 9 ! con/ruction ( all g>m5ts ) coll>s1 no matt] if x is /&+ alone or if a turn-d[n piece is atta*$ to x4 ,x is true1 a sep>ate coll> c be fitt$ to ! neck 9 any %ape1 & may be s fitt$ t ! =ep>t & coll> meet 9 front1 all[+ ! /&+ portion ov] ! back to g d[n any:]e4 ,b ?is is n ! pr9ciple = a /&+ coll>1 = ! reason t x _c s be appli$ on a ve/1 or any o!r g>m5t1 ) ! /&+ coll> cut on ! =ep>t4 ,! neck-b& ( a ve/1 or ! /&+ coll> ( any g>m5t1 has a c]ta9 function to p]=m4 ,:5ev] a ve/ is on ! angle ( #ace deg41 ! neck-h& mu/ lap ov] ! back a c]ta9 di/ance1 z %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,:5ev] ! neck is f9i%$1 said b& is turn$ upw>d to ! top ( ! neck1 & 9 s do+ x w =m a spr+ ne> ! %\ld] seam to p]mit ! neck to pass ?r\gh2 & x is j ! same :e!r a turn-d[n piece or a turn-d[n coll> is atta*$ to x or n4 ,if ! neck-b& is cut too l[ beh9d1 x w =m too mu* spr+ & ! ve/ w be too wide at ! side ( ! neck1 & mu/ be %runk1 :i* w nev] make a well-fitt+ job4 ,if ! b& is cut too high at ! back c5t]1 x w n h spr+ en\gh at ! side1 & ! ve/ mu/ be /ret*$1 :i*1 h[ev]1 c be done bett] ?an if drawn 94 ,b 9 ei!r case1 :e!r /ret*+ or %r9k+ is requir$1 ,i w\ld advise ! b& be+ ripp$ op51 ! /iff5+ tak5 out1 & re-%ap$ "u ! iron1 :i* c easily be done4 ,if a g>m5t is wor? alt]+ at all1 x is wor? alt]+ correctly4 ,a coat or ve/ ( ! pres5t /yle1 & likely to be = _m ye>s to come1 is int5d$ to rea* up to ! side ( ! neck :]e x 7! neck7 %oots ne>ly /raight upw>d4 ,! coll> be+ an addition to ! coat1 x mu/ be s con/ruct$ t x w turn aside & p]mit ! neck to pass ?r\gh4 ,n[1 ! position ( ! /&+ "p ( a coat coll> mu/ be ! same z on a ve/1 :]e ! /&+ coll> is n cut (f1 = x p]=ms ! same function4 ,take any good coat patt]n t is furni%$ by a reliable firm & lay ! p>ts out z 9 ?is book1 & put ! bottom ( ! /&+ "p ( ! coll> at ! po9t indicat$ 9 ! ve/ diagrams1 & y w f9d t ! front ( ! neck & front ( ! coll> w n fit toge!r1 b lap ov] ea* o!r f #a to #c 94 accord+ to ! size ( ! roll4 ,! m x laps1 ! less roll x w produce1 & if ! coll> & neck-hole 7 cut ev5ly 9 front1 ! coll> w\ld pull ! lapel d[n to ! bottom ( ! skirt4 7,see ,dia4 ,,vii47 ,i mu/ repeat1 h[ev]1 t x is almo/ impossible to give a positive di/ance = ! lap ( ! coat lapel1 or a positive %ape ( ! coll>4 ,we mu/ wat* fa%ion1 & see h[ high ! /&+ coll> is1 h[ mu* ! turn-d[n is beh9d1 or h[ wide ! front is to be4 ,a compet5t coat-mak] c take almo/ any piece ( bias clo? & canvas & press x into %ape to make a good coll>1 b exp]i5ce proves t n all coat-mak]s w or c d x4 ,a ve/ ) ! /&+ coll> cut (f mu/ h ! neck cut out at ! side1 & at ! angle ( #de deg41 at lea/ f #d to #d2 because ! sew$-on /&+ coll> mu/ fill ! place ( ! neck-b& ( a ve/ ) ! coll> cut on4 ,all ve/s ) ! /&+ coll> cut on %\ld h ! top ( ! back cut z wide z ! angle ( #de deg4 at lea/1 9 ord] to br+ ! spr+1 creat$ by ! turn+ upw>d ( ! neck-b&1 to ! side ( ! neck4 ,if ! top ( ! back is cut too n>r[ ! spr+ w locate too f> beh9d1 & w be loose !re1 :ile at ! side ( ! neck x may be too tight4 ,all ve/s1 ) & )\t turn-d[n coll>s1 %\ld be cut alike at ! neck4 ,! turn-d[n "p ( ! coll> is simply a piece cut j l ! neck ( ! ve/1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,n[1 x %\ld be obs]v$ t if ,dia4 ,,iv is made )\t a turn-d[n coll> ! edge mu/ be turn$ 91 consequ5tly x loses a seam at ! side ( ! neck1 :i* seam mu/ be r$uc$ on a ve/ ) a turn-d[n coll>1 because ! edge is n turn$ 91 b cov]$ ov] ) ! top coll>1 & ! diff]5ce %\ld be at lea/ ( an in*--t is1 = a turn-d[n coll> ! neck-b& at ! side ( ! neck %\ld be r$uc$ ( an in*1 />t+ at ! c5t] ( ! back & runn+ out to no?+ any:]e 9 front4 ,9 all cases ! bottom ( ! neck-b& rema9s at #e on ! angle ( #de deg41 z 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,?is mann] ( cutt+ a ve/ = a turn-d[n coll> enables ! cutt] to curve ! neck j z he pleases1 z ! turn-d[n piece w always foll[ ! curve4 ,9 ?is connection x w\ld1 no d\bt1 be prop] to speak ( ! cutt+ ( ! top-coll> & its dress+1 or press+ 9 %ape1 be=e x is put on1 9 ord] to produce ! curve ( ! flat top-coll>4 ,to cut ! top-coll>1 turn ! und]side upw>d 9 front & above ! top button1 & ev5 ) ! =e-"p z f> up z possible4 ,accord+ to ! prom95ce ( ! curve1 ! top ( ! "u-coll> w fall ov] t[>d ! arm-hole & t[>d ! %\ld] seam1 & 9 ?is %ape ! top-coll> mu/ be cut2 &1 by all means1 %\ld be on ! bias1 on ! mo/ holl[ "p ( ! curve4 ,9 mak+ up1 ! inside "p ( ! top-coll> mu/ be well /ret*$1 & press$ ov]1 & %ap$ to ! curve ( ! "u-coll>1 & = ?is reason mu/ be cut bias4 ,! coll> & ! :ole fac+ c be dress$ "u ! smoo?+ iron j z ! curve ( ! ve/ requires x by turn+ & press+ ! /&+ coll> "p "u4 ,x requires a few extra t\*es to %ape ! top coll>1 & "s clo? may be wa/$ 9 ord] to get x bias1 b ?is is ! be/ mann] 9 :i* to make a well curv$ coll> on a l[-cut ve/4 ,if any "o w look up ! au?ority on ! cutt+ ( g>m5ts ( f #cj to #dj ye>s ago1 & p>ticul>ly ! works ( ,g5io ,c4 ,scott1 he w f9d t at t "t ve/s 8)\t0 coll>s 7 produc$ by sew+ on a neck-b& ) a 8,v0 atta*$ to x 9 ! same %ape z ,i h %[n ! front ( ! /&+ coll> "p 9 ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,?is 8,v0 sew$ 9 produc$ ! spr+ at ! side ( ! neck4 ,t sometimes prov$ a difficult task = me :ile le>n+ ! trade 9 ord] to get 9 a nice 8,v10 & ,i suppose x w\ld be a difficult task = "s ( our j\rneym5 ( to-day4 ,b ! _w is progress+4 ,to-day we accompli% x ) a /raight piece1 & d x j z well1 & p]haps bett]4 ,all t is necess>y = u to obs]ve is1 t ! %\ld] seam po9ts to ! side ( ! neck :]e ! spr+ is requir$4 ,b1 = ! purpose ( v>iety1 ,i w propose ano!r plan4 ,cut ! ve/ z 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,leave (f ! neck-b& & simply add ( an in* to ! top ( ! back & runn+ out to no?+ at ab\t #c in*es bel[ ! %\ld] seam4 ,at ! middle ( ! %\ld] seam comm5ce & put 9 a spr+ ( ab\t #a 941 giv+ half to ! front & half to ! back2 !n sew up1 & y w f9d ! same task accompli%$4 ,if we turn ! neck-b& 9 ,dia4 ,,iv upw>d until x meets ) ! top ( ! back1 we %all f9d t a fold ( ab\t #a in* w =m on & above ! %\ld] seam1 & all t is necess>y is to imitate ?is by cutt+ a spr+ ( in* to bo? ! back & front at ! top ( ! %\ld] seam or at po9t #e4 ,x is some:at ( a "q :e!r x w\ld be advisable to cut ve/s 9 ?is mann]1 b !y c be z f> z ! fit is conc]n$1 m p>ticul>ly ^? cut ) a clo? back4 ,n[ ,i mu/ say a ^w ab\t coat coll>s 9 p>ticul>4 ,9 visit+ diff]5t tailor %ops we f9d t ! dress+ ( ! "u-coll> is accompli%$ 9 _m diff]5t ways1 & = aught ,i "k all may be "r--if !y suit ! cu/om]1 or if ! coll> is on1 z x is requir$ by ! coat4 ,coats :i* require a coll> to be /ret*$ ne>ly into a circle ar\nd ! back are (t5 cut too l[ or too wide at ! neck4 ,= su* a r\nd-%ap$ coll> may be requir$ to close well 9 at ! neck1 b x w nev] make an elegant job1 & su* coats usually indicate too mu* clo? 9 ! %ape ( wr9kles bel[ ! coll>1 or on ! top ( ! %\ld]s4 ,a coll> mu/ n run ) ! slope ( ! %\ld]s1 b mu/ turn upw>d at ! side ( ! neck to p]mit x to pass ?r\gh4 ,x mu/ /& up1 no matt] if a turn-d[n "p is cut on or if x /&s alone1 z on milit>y or cl]gym5's coats4 ,a well fitt+ milit>y or cl]gyman's coat requires = its /&+ coll> no?+ b a /raight piece ( clo?1 & sew$ on /raight4 ,x w n be too loose at ! top1 nor w x 8saw0 ! neck sore 9 half an h\r4 ,n[1 a coat coll>1 ) a turn-d[n1 repres5ts a /&+ coll> ov] ! top ( ! back & side ( ! neck1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,vii1 & on t piece or w$ge ! turn-d[n "p is add$4 ,?is w$ge1 or ! /&+ coll> z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,vii1 mu/ reta9 its %ape z on a ve/1 b z soon z ! /&+ coll> is /ret*$ at ! bottom ! spr+ at ! neck is de/roy$1 & a tight or flat coll> is ! result at ! side ( ! neck4 ,b to fit ! /&+ coll> & turn-d[n "p toge!r1 s t ! turn-d[n "p is s mu* l>g] t x w g ar\nd ! /&+ "p )\t /ra91 ! coll> %\ld be dress$ z foll[s3 ,lay ! :ole "u-coll> flat on ! table & turn & press ! /&+ "p up :]e x belongs1 )\t /ret*+ ! out] edge ( ! turn-d[n "p1 & ! coll> is done4 ,:atev] is trimm$ (f 9 front dep5ds ^u h[ f> ! lapel is to be drawn d[n4 ,9 ?is respect we all c le>n some?+ f an ord9>y pap] coll>1 :i* is a q flat piece ( pap]--! break is n on a /raight l9e1 b on a curve ( ab\t half an in* at ! c5t] beh9d1 & !y all fit well4 ,_m a cutt] & _m a j\rneyman w\ld pr(it by /udy+ ! pr9ciple ( a turn-d[n pap] coll>4 ,( late ye>s a great _m ov]coats1 & especially ul/]s1 h be5 made ) v wide coll>s1 turn+ d[n ab\t five in*es or m4 ,su* necks %\ld be cut ) ! /&+ coll> on ! top ( back & on ! side ( ! =ep>t & runn+ out to a po9t at or ne> ! front sleeve base1 & an extra spr+ ( n less ?an "o in* add$ to ea* %\ld] seam1 & ev5ly divid$ on back & on front4 ,?is addition furni%es ! /&+ "p ( ! coll>1 & ! turn-d[n coll> "p is put on1 j z x is put on to ! ve/1 :i* w give =m to ! %ape ( ! %\ld] & n lie flat1 z mo/ ( su* coll>s are se5 to-day4 ,see coll> z x is to be press$4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,armhole ,,& ,,sleeve4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,vii47 ,bo? armhole & sleeves z well z ! %\ld] seam are v closely connect$1 & mu/ h>monize4 ,no matt] 9 :at position we *oose to place ! diff]5t p>ts ( a frock or sack :ile cutt+1 !y mu/ all assume ! same position at & ar\nd ! armhole & %\ld]s :5 on ! body4 ,! "q ( locat+ ! front ( ! armhole is solv$ 9 ! application ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 ,! normal =m has its arms at ! c5t] & side ( ! body1 & ,dia4 ,i has its armhole 9 its c5t] & side4 ,if ! old rule--front ( armhole half-brea/ f back--holds good1 !n ! back ( ! armhole mu/ also be equally good at half-brea/ f ! front base1 z 9 ,dia4 ,i4 ,!re is no "q b t ! armhole may be made m or less )\t injury to ! fit z long z ! sleeve fits into ! armhole4 ,! front ( ! armhole is locat$ two seams back ( #de deg41 f ! />t+ po9t1 & on ! front base1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,?is gives an easy-fitt+ armhole = a well-built =m1 b if ! armhole is cut =w>d to meet ! front sleeve base1 x w n injure ! coat4 ,x is g5]ally claim$ t a /oop+ =m requires its armhole m =w>d1 & an erect =m m backw>d1 b ?is is n always true4 ,we f9d pl5ty ( =ms :i* b5d ! back1 & ?r[ ! neck d[nw>d 9 front1 b ?r[ ! arms & %\ld]s backw>d1 & :i* =ms d n require _! armholes =w>d ( ! normal position4 ,we also f9d =ms :i* are v erect or /raight 9 ! back b ?r[ _! arms =w>d1 & d require ! armholes =w>d f ! normal position4 ,n[1 no matt] if ! =m is erect or /oop+1 ! armholes d n require to be l>g] or small]4 ,because a man ?r[s 8 arms =w>d or backw>d does n %[ t 8 arm becomes l>g] or small]4 ,if ! armhole is requir$ to be cut an in* m =w>d ! back %\ld be t mu* wid]4 ,if ! armhole is cut an in* backw>d ! back becomes an in* small]--! location ( ! armhole *anges1 n ! armhole4 ,a cutt] mu/ also take into acc\nt ! occupation ( a cu/om]4 ,a musician :o bl[s a great horn requires 8 armholes backw>d1 & a full brea/1 :ile a p]son :o plays ! viol9 requires 8 armholes pretty well =w>d1 or1 at lea/1 he ne$s extra l5g? 9 ! back sleeve seam1 no matt] if x is a trifle loose :5 ! sleeve drops d[nw>d4 ,b if ev]y?+ is well balanc$ x is wond]ful h[ small1 & aga9 h[ l>ge1 an armhole a man c h 9 8 coat & feel good 9 ei!r ( !m4 ,b z /at$1 ! sleeve mu/ fit into ! armhole1 & = ?is reason we mu/ consid] ! sleeve 9 p>ticul>4 ,:5 "o or bo? arms are ?r[n into a horizontal position !y %[ !mselves z a sidewise gr[? ( ! body1 l ! limb ( a tree1 & consequ5tly h _! base 9 ! c5t] ( ! back1 or 9 ! c5t] ( ! front4 ,= ! purpose ( p]mitt+ ! arms to drop d[n to ! side1 a w$ge1 or gusset1 or a lap1 is made betwe5 ! top ( ! armhole & sleeve1 :i* is tak5 up :5 ! arm drops d[n into its natural position at ! side4 ,at #fj deg4 f ! c5t] ( ! back ! sleeve & ! %\ld] lap #b numb]s = a close-fitt+ sleeve1 & x is s %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,vii & ,x4 ,at #de deg4 f ! back1 or at ! top squ>e l9e f ! front base1 ! sleeve & %\ld] lap #b numb]s4 ,:ile ! lap ( #b at #de deg41 may be consid]$ z a p]man5t ?+ = all sleeves1 ! lap at #fj deg4 may be consid]$ z *angeable1 accord+ to ! /yle ( ! sleeve head1 or accord+ to ! k9d ( ! coat1 z ov] or "u coats4 ,! lap ( %\ld] & sleeve1 at #fj deg41 also dep5ds ^u a l[ or a squ>e %\ld]1 z well z ^u a broad or a n>r[ /yle ( ! %\ld]4 ,two & a qu>t] may be tak5 z ! smalle/ am\nt to be all[$ at #fj deg41 & #b may be consid]$ n too mu* = any /yle1 & #b may be consid]$ pl5ty = a v full sleeve head & a n>r[ /yle ( %\ld]s4 ,at "r angles ) ! c5t] ( ! back & ?r\gh ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 is ! front sleeve base1 to :i* ! front sleeve seam is connect$ at po9t #aa1 & f :i* l9e ! normal =m requires ! front ( armhole backw>d #b seams1 z 9 ! position ( ,dia4 ,,vii1 & :i* is int5d$ = a close-fitt+ armhole4 ,on ! back ! c5t] ( ! sleeve is #h f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 & !re ! sleeve & ! coat connect ev51 & !re ! sleeve l5g? mu/ be transf]r$4 ,9 tak+ ! sleeve l5g? x makes no diff]5ce if ! l5g? is tak5 #a in* high] or l[]1 b 9 transf]r+ ! measure to ! sleeve1 ! cutt] mu/ "k :]e to transf]1 no matt] :]e ! seam may be locat$4 ,aft] ! front & back are =m$ ! top sleeve may be made wid] on ei!r seam1 & ! "u side t mu* small]1 & not*es cut accord+ly4 ,sleeve & back are to be connect$ at #h numb]s f ,o1 & at ! back base1 b ?is is = normal =ms only1 or = ! normal position ( ! arm only4 ,p]sons ^: occupation compels !m to ?r[ _! arms =w>d %\ld h "s surplus clo? at t po9t ev5 if ! sleeve %[s too mu* clo? :5 ! arms hang d[n4 ,surplus l5g? all[$ !re mu/ n be acc\nt$ = 9 ! sleeve l5g?4 ,ano!r good way1 to provide su* sleeves ) extra l5g? at ! back seam1 is to ?r[ ! front seam ( ! sleeve1 say #a 94 =w>d ( ! base & at ! h&1 :i* w cause ! sleeve to ext5d =w>d easily ) ! arm4 ,su* sleeves may also h m wid? at ! elb[s4 ,p]sons :o mo/ always rea* =w>d ) _! arms %\ld also h a trifle all[ance1 say in*1 at ! %\ld] blade1 & betwe5 ! back & sidepiece1 at l9e #i ov] ! front4 ,! bottom ( ! armhole is m>k$ above l9es #i & #aa & ! front ( ! armhole is 1 or two seams back ( ! angle ( #de deg41 all ( :i* mu/ be consid]$ a close-fitt+ armhole1 b !re is no law to prev5t ! armhole to be cut to deep] & t mu* m =w>d4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,vii & ,x ! upp] armhole nick is plac$ at #fg deg4 & ! upp] sleeve nick is plac$ at #fj deg41 & bo? come v close toge!r z long z ! lap ( sleeve & %\ld] is n ov] #b at #fj deg4 ,s9ce ,dia4 ,,vii & ,x 7 made1 ,i h f\nd t a "r angle f ! c5t] ( ! back ?r\gh #fj deg4 at ! armhole gives a r bett] connection1 & ,dia4 ,,ii1 :i* 0 made lat] on1 0 made to %[ t way4 ,at ! same "t ,dia4 ,,ii 0 made ) ! front ( armhole close to #de deg4 & ) a lap ( #b at #fj deg4 ,! back nick at #h & ! front nick at #aa mu/ be consid]$ correct1 b t mu* mu/ be said3 ,if = any reason ! sleeve & armhole nicks mu/ be *ang$1 ! sleeve w be ! bett] if x is turn$ d[n 9 front & up beh9d1 ?an if x turn$ ! o!r way4 ,n[1 ! position ( ! sleeve & back enables ! cutt] to keep !m 9 true balance4 ,if ! %\ld] becomes a ( an in* broad] ! sleeve loses t mu*1 & if ! %\ld] becomes n>r[]1 ! sleeve mu/ ga9 t mu*4 ,if ! armhole is cut m =w>d ! back becomes broad] & ! sleeve t mu* %ort] beh9d4 ,if ! armhole is cut m backw>d ! back becomes n>r[] & ! back sleeve seam t mu* %ort]4 ,! /oop+ =m requires ! front ( ! neck-hole fur!r d[n1 & ! top ( back correspond+ly high]1 & = illu/ration1 ,i ref] to ,dia4 ,v1 & ! dott$ l9e at ! neck4 ,if ! neck *anges1 ! sleeve c5t] rema9s at #h4 ,if ! neck is ?r[n fur!r d[n1 ! top ( ! back mu/ be long]1 & ! front becomes t mu* %ort]1 b ! sides rema94 ,besides1 a /oop+ =m c always /& a trifle extra l5g? at ! back ( ! sleeve1 & to 94 extra l5g? !re w always be f\nd useful4 ,! top ( ! "u sleeve ,i h repres5t$ 9 two diff]5t ways4 ,! upp] curve is especially int5d$ = ov]coats1 because ! ov]coat armhole is cut deep] ?an ! "u coat armhole4 ,! upw>d curve =ms a gusset1 or a w$ge1 :i* all[s ! arm to be rais$ on ! same pr9ciple t ! lap ( ! %\ld] & sleeve on top all[s ! arm to be mov$ d[nw>d4 ,:5 ! arm is d[n1 & 9 its natural position1 ! gusset on top is tak5 up & ! "o bel[ ! arm is hidd51 & w n %[ at all4 ,b if ! arm is to be mov$ upw>d1 x is !re = supply1 & ! body ( ! coat is n requir$ to g along4 ,! wid? ( ! sleeve1 bo? at ! elb[ & at ! cuff1 mo/ always dep5ds on /yle or notion4 ,a long sleeve mu/ be small] at ! cuff ?an a %ort "o1 b a cutt] %\ld always inquire z to :at a cu/om] wants & write ! measure d[n4 ,9 ! abs5ce ( a positive measure1 ! elb[ may be made #h numb]s1 a little m = q small sizes & a little less = q l>ge sizes4 ,= ! cuff1 #f numb]s may be us$ = ! m$ium sizes1 s t size #ce may be made up #aa 94 full4 ,! smalle/ cuff1 say size #bc to #bd1 %\ld n be made up less ?an #i 941 & ! l>ge/ cuff1 say #dh to #ej1 is l>ge en\gh ) #ac 941 b may be made #ad to #ae 94--all *anges to be made at ! elb[ seam4 ,!re is a v>iation ( p]haps #f 94 9 ab\t #be sizes1 or ab\t 94 = e size4 ,if we take #aa 94 = ! wid? ( a #ce size cuff1 we w be v ne> correct if we add 94 = e size bel[ t size1 & d$uct 94 = e size above t numb]4 ,dia4 ,,vii repres5ts ! armhole1 sleeve & coll>1 & also repres5ts ! respective l5g? ( ! cloak or cape4 ,! cloak "p ( ,dia4 ,,vii %[s ! full ( t g>m5t )\t any seam at ! %\ld]s1 b t w\ld be too full = ! pres5t /yle2 & ! r$uction mu/ be made sidewise by fold+ ! patt]n at ! c5t] ( ! side1 or at #fg deg41 b po9t t[>d ! %\ld] seam & top ( ! sleeve1 :]e ! %\ld] w op5 t[>d ! neck z ! %\ld] seam4 ,?is %\ld] seam may be call$ artificial because ! real r$uction is made at ! side bel[4 ,by mak+ ! fold1 ! circle mu/ be re-%ap$ at its bottom1 b ! respective l5g?s rema9 z 9 ,dia4 ,,vii4 7,see ,dia4 ,v,i,ia1 :i* 0 made lat]47 ,! armhole mu/ be consid]$ a c5t]1 or a p]man5t ?+1 & mu/ n be *ang$ = ei!r ! /oop+1 or erect1 or long or %ort neck4 ,if ! neck be long1 all[ m %\ld] /rap1 & if %ort1 give less1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,ix4 ,b if = any reason an extra loose armhole is desir$1 & x is ?r[n =w>d1 !n ! front sleeve base mu/ be advanc$ accord+ly--t is1 two seams mu/ lap betwe5 ! front ( ! armhole & sleeve1 at #aa1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,to sew ! sleeve 9 ! armhole3 ,clean ! front ( armhole ( all hair clo?1 if any is us$4 ,betwe5 ! front & ! top nicks1 cut all canvas & padd+ 91 9 ?ree or f\r places1 & cut ! l9+ 91 9 "o place1 ab\t #a 94 above ! front sleeve nick1 & ab\t #b 94 deep1 & cov] x ) a ,v4 ,if ! padd+ is ?ick1 x %\ld be s cut t no two cuts meet ea* o!r1 s t :5 ! cuts are /ret*$ ap>t1 t !y /ill =m a solid edge & n %[ ! (fsets on ! outside4 ,! front ( ! armhole %\ld !n be /ret*$ "u ! iron1 f po9t #aa to #fj deg41 & c>e %\ld be tak5 t ! front ( armhole is n torn1 especially at ! nicks4 ,aft] su* /ret*+ ! sleeve & ! armhole w be ne>ly ev51 & ! sleeve w require no full+1 or v little4 ,bel[ ! front sleeve nick ! armhole is n to be /ret*$1 unless x is done to make ! coat l>g]4 ,on & along ! back sleeve seam1 up to #de deg4 & d[n to ! "u arm cut1 ! back ( ! armhole %\ld be secur$ f /ret*+ by "s k9d ( a /ay1 & aft] ! scye is solid !re1 ! sleeve %\ld be held a trifle full1 :i* makes a bett] hang+ sleeve ?an if ! sleeve be /ret*$4 ,no sleeve hangs well 9 front if x be /ret*$ above ! front sleeve nick3 & ! same ?+ is true to ! back "p4 ,a sleeve c be made to hang well 9 ! back1 z well z 9 front1 if ! coat mak] kn[s h[ to "w x1 or ! cutt] kn[s h[ to cut x1 & be able to give positive in/ructions4 ,:atev] ! top sleeve is made broad] ?an #h numb]s is tak5 (f on ! "u side & ! nicks = ! sleeve seams foll[ ! wid? ( ! top sleeve on bo? front & back4 ,! c5t] ( ! top sleeve is #h1 :i* w produce a m$ium top sleeve1 b ! "u sleeve w be r full & mu/ be r$uc$1 say to 1 on ! front seam1 or a fold mu/ be laid "u ! arm4 ,by ! normal position ( ! armhole1 ,i mean t ! front ( ! armhole is locat$ )9 94 or two seams ( ! angle ( #de deg41 & ! sleeve on t angle z a base1 s t ! sleeve & armhole always lap two seams1 "o = ! sleeve & ! o!r = ! coat1 z 9 ,dia4 ,x & ,,vii4 ,= ! bottom ( ! sleeve1 sweep f #h on ! back1 :i* is ! c5t] ( ! sleeve4 ,on ! same pr9ciple t ! back l9+ ( a coat is put 9 l>ge1 ! sleeve l9+ ought to be put 9 l>ge ar\nd ! armhole1 p>ticul>ly ! top sleeve l9+1 :i* %\ld be at lea/ 94 wid] at ea* seam ?an ! outside1 runn+ out to no?+ at & bel[ ! elb[4 ,speak+ ( sleeve l9+1 x may be said "h t f9e tailor+ may require ! top ( ! sleeve l9+ to be fell$ all ar\nd1 b x is (t5 notic$ t ev5 on f9e "w ! top "p is sew$ ) a seam & ! "u side fell$4 ,n[1 if we sew ! top sleeve l9+ ) a seam we may z well sew ! "u sleeve1 = x makes clean "w all ar\nd4 ,x is done z foll[s3 ,sew ! top sleeve ) a seam z f> z y c1 !n turn ! sleeve l9+ "r side out1 ga!r up ! :ole sleeve l9+ f ! bottom1 & rea* up ?r\gh ! front & sew ar\nd ! balance4 ,x is r an awkw>d job = "o n accu/om$ to x1 b x works q easily aft] a %ort trial4 ,?is w\ld n h be5 m5tion$ "h b = ! fact t ,i h se5 only "o coat :i* _h ! sleeve l9+ sew$ 9 t way1 :i* 0 n made by me1 & t coat 0 made 9 ,indianapolis1 ,indiana4 ,sew+ 9 sleeves is a p>ticul> job 9 ord] to make !m bo? alike1 & x w pay a cutt] to be p>ticul> 9 cutt+ ! not*es & requir+ ! j\r4 to place !m toge!r2 or1 if f any cause1 not*es on "o sleeve are *ang$ t ! o!r sleeve is *ang$ 9 ! same mann]4 ,ano!r fact mu/ be obs]v$3 ,by sew+ 9 ! und]sleeve a coat may be made a good deal l>g] or small]4 ,if ! und]sleeve is sew$ 9 full & ! l9+ gives1 a coat may be made f "o to two sizes l>g] ?an if ! und]sleeve is sew$ 9 close1 or ! fullness laid 9 a fold4 ,i h made _m a ?ree-seam$ sack coat l>g] by enl>g+ ! und]sleeve & by well /ret*+ ! coat "u ! arm1 & !n piec+ ! l9+ d[n to ! hips4 ,a coat :i* is too small 9 ! armholes & :i* is cut =w>d is usually ru9$1 because cutt+ ! armholes =w>d w be at ! exp5se ( ! wid? ( ! brea/1 b if a w$ge is put 9 "u ! arm1 ei!r by /ret*+ ! bottom ( ! armhole or by ! help ( outlets1 !n ! coat w be l>ge en\gh 9 ! arms & rema9 wide en\gh at ! *e/4 ,9 g5]al practice x is f\nd t a great _m coats fit bett] at ! %\ld]s1 )\t ! sleeves 91 & 9 all su* cases x may be presum$ t ! top sleeve is too %ort1 :i* causes ! %\ld] to break some:]e4 ,aga9 a %ort top sleeve at ! angles ( #de & #fj deg4 causes ! back sleeve seam & ! :ole back und]sleeve to appe> too long1 :ile at ! h& ! sleeve is t mu* too %ort4 ,! top sleeve is bett] if x laps in* too mu* ?an in* too little at #de & #fj deg4 ,betwe5 ! squ>e & ! l[ %\ld] !re %\ld be a diff]5ce made 9 ! sleeve head1 indep5d5t ( /yle4 ,! l[ %\ld] requires a flat sleeve on top ( ! %\ld]1 & su* armholes %\ld n be /ret*$ mu*1 :ile ! m squ>e %\ld] may h a sleeve cut ) a full] head1 & ! armhole may be /ret*$ m4 ,! wid? ( ! %\ld]s v>ies 9 /yle also1 & x mu/ be obs]v$ t :5ev] ! /yle ( ! %\ld]s is broad ! sleeve head _c be z full z x may be made on a coat ) ! %\ld]s cut n>r[4 ,on ! pres5t /yle ( female sleeves we c notice t !y are all cut n>r[ 9 ! %\ld]s1 & ) an extremely full sleeve head4 ,su* %\ld]s w\ld look horrid1 if !y 7 cut v broad1 & ) su* big sleeve heads runn+ up1 & above ! %\ld]s1 sev]al in*es4 ,9 mak+ up1 ! j\r4 & ! cutt] mu/ "w 9 h>mony1 & 9 all cases1 ! j\r4 ought to "k if ! coat is = a l[ or = a squ>e %\ld]1 & he ought to be able to "w ! %\ld]s accord+ly4 ,!re is no sleeve sy/em 9 exi/5ce :i* is z good z ?is1 & ,i claim t !re is no probability t any?+ bett] w be br\ght =?4 ,o!rs may be able to give x a f9] poli%1 b ! pr9ciple w rema94 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,c5t]s ,,( ,,! ,,back ,,& ,,front4 ,bo? ( ^! c5t]s mu/ be v ne>ly on /raight l9es1 z is prov$ by ! fact t a ve/ c be fitt$ ) v little curve on ! c5t] ( ! back or 9 front2 & 9 fact1 c be fitt$ f ! wai/ to ! neck ) q /raight l9es by simply cutt+ a trifle ( a gore sidewise1 ei!r at ! wai/ or at ! neck1 or at bo?4 ,:5 we exam9e ! body closely we f9d t x is n r\nd1 b has f\r well-def9$ corn]s1 two 9 front at ! c5t] ( ! brea/ or at ! nipples1 & two 9 ! back at ea* %\ld] blade4 ,if any r$uction is requir$ at ! wai/ x %\ld be made at ^! locations1 = !y are ! turn+ po9ts ( ! body4 ,betwe5 ^! po9ts ! normal body is p]fectly flat 9 front & at ! sides1 ?\gh 9 l5g? ! front is curv$1 :ile ! back is mo/ly holl[2 b = all t1 ! normal back may be consid]$ flat f blade to blade1 z ! holl[ betwe5 is n int5d$ to be %[n1 b conceal$4 ,if we view ! body f side to side1 ! back & front appe> to be a %>p curve1 z is %[n 9 ,fig4 #b2 b if we look at ,fig4 #a we see bo? back & front flat4 ,if a body 7 to be press$ flat f side to side1 & !n a cov] cut = t =m1 bo? ! c5t] ( ! front & back w\ld necess>ily be cut on curv$ l9es1 because x w\ld be ess5tial to fit f front to back1 or f back to front1 j z we may take x4 ,b on ! human =m bo? front & back mu/ be fitt$ sidewise f _! respective bases1 & z bo? ( ! bases are on a flat surface x foll[s t bo? ( !m mu/ be fitt$1 or ne>ly s1 on /raight l9es1 at lea/ z f> d[n z ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,if we take a %eet ( /iff pap] we c fit x ov] ! back & *e/1 & f arm to arm1 all ! way d[n to ! holl[ ( ! wai/ 9 ! back1 & to ! turn+ po9ts or pit ( ! /oma* 9 front1 ) sc>cely any break or wr9kle 9 ! pap]1 :i* %[s t ! c5t] ( ! back or front mu/ be fitt$ on /raight l9es1 & t all r$uction1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 or all additions1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i1 at ! wai/ mu/ be made sidewise or ne>ly s4 ,! r$uction ( ! back ( ! wai/ dep5ds entirely ^u ! position 9 :i* we *oose to place ! diff]5t p>ts4 ,9 fact1 x may be claim$ t ! wai/ r$uction ( ! back is :olly imag9>y1 because ! :ole "p ( ! body betwe5 ! arms & wai/ is a flat surface1 & c be fitt$ ) a /raight piece ( clo?4 ,consid]+ t ! natural position ( a g>m5t :5 on ! body runs f ! %\ld] blade d[nw>d & into ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 x mu/ come 9 contact ) ! seat bel[1 & mu/ be sprung outw>d1 b diff]s some:at accord+ to ! nature ( ! g>m5t--all ( :i* is cle>ly %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,all ! diff]5t %apes ( gores or w$ges 9 ! back ( a frock coat we c make1 because we c op5 or close ! sidepiece & back1 upw>d or d[nw>d4 ,on a ve/ ) a /raight back1 we mu/ cut x j s1 & n o!rwise2 & a ve/ back mu/ h a trifle spr+ ov] ! seat 9 ! c5t] ( ! back4 ,if we cut a ve/ (f at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 we c connect ! sides also on /raight l9es & ! :ole g>m5t c be cut ) b "o seam 9 front4 ,9 ?is case1 h[ev]1 we mu/ consid] ! foll[+3 ,if ! squ>e ( #bj1 ) "o in* cut out "u ! arm1 & sew$ up1 fits ! body1 ! back & front are n 9 t squ>e any long]2 b t squ>e spreads on top1 & contracts bel[1 ab\t #g deg4 ,b :ile ! squ>e ( #bj is ?us contract$ at ! wai/1 x spreads ap>t on top1 or above l9e #i1 & "h a r$uction ( ! wai/ w\ld be visible z a gore above ! armscye l9e 9 ! armhole1 b :i* is cut away & t gore is invisible on a ve/4 ,b ev5 a ve/ on a squ>e ( #bj w\ld necess>ily h a gore !re if ! armhole w\ld n take x away1 & if ! seam is ?r[n fur!r backw>d1 z 9 a sack coat1 t gore w %[2 & if ! seam is ?r[n /ill fur!r backw>d1 z on a frock coat1 x w %[ /ill m1 because ! armhole does n approa* x s closely4 ,n[1 all ( ?is %[s t two /raight edges c be jo9$ toge!r & fitt$ ov] ! c5t] ( ! back or front by cutt+ ! gores sidewise1 & ?us compell+ ! /raight back & front ( a g>m5t to con=m ) ! b5d 9 front & ! back 9 l5g?4 ,! c5t] ( ! front _c be manipulat$ l ! back1 because !re are no seams 9 ! =ep>t pass+ f "o end to ! o!r1 except 9 a d\ble-brea/$ coat ) ! lapels cut (f4 ,x is true1 we c cut small gores "u ! lapel or at ! wai/ to make ! =ep>t con=m to ! body1 b !y mu/ be well und]/ood by ! cutt] z well z by ! coat mak]4 ,we all "k t a great _m good coats are made e day )\t any gore :atev] 9 ! =ep>t1 b we also "k t su* coats are pretty well work$1 & ! front edge drawn 91 :i* is equal to cutt+ a gore some:]e4 ,a gore "u ! lapel is always vexati\s 9 ! h&s ( an inexp]i5c$ j\rneyman1 = x is q easy to ?r[ ! %\ld] ( ! g>m5t out ( place :5 ba/$ on ! canvas4 ,= ?is reason no gore "u ! lapel %\ld be sew$ up until ! =ep>t is ba/$ on ! canvas or padd+1 aft] :i* ! canvas %\ld be cut 9 j ! %ape ( ! gore1 because a flat canvas w spoil all effects ( a gore4 ,on a d\ble-brea/$ coat1 ) ! lapels cut (f1 an exception mu/ be made1 :5 ! lapels are sew$ on be=e ! =ep>ts are ba/$ on ! canvas4 ,)9 said lapel seam may be obta9$ all necess>y oval =m requir$ = a =ep>t1 & all o!r gores "u ! lapel are apt to d m h>m ?an good4 ,b !re is no "q ab\t ! usefulness ( a gore "u ! lapel ( a d\ble-brea/$ sack coat1 & ,i may say x is indisp5sable !re1 = no d\ble-brea/$ coat c be made to con=m ) ! %ape ( ! body unless "o or two gores are cut some:]e4 ,a lapel may be obta9$ )\t a gore 9 x1 b z soon z ! coat is to be button$ up completely1 !re w be surplus clo? betwe5 ea* button & buttonhole1 or ! coll> w be too loose "u ! *91 or ! front ( ! wai/ w be too wide4 ,n[ all ( ^! faults--loose coll>1 long front1 or l>ge wai/--may be ov]come by simply cutt+ a gore ( 94 9 ! c5t] ( ! =ep>t at ! wai/ seam ( a frock coat1 & ,i deem x necess>y to give t gore p>ticul> att5tion4 ,:5 we take a %eet ( pap] & spread x ov] ! front ( ! brea/1 we c fit bo? fronts f ! neck d[n to ! pit ( ! /oma* ) t /raight pap]4 ,f ! pit ( ! /oma* d[n x w /& (f f ! body1 j z ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ae deg4 /&s (f 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,n[1 to br+ t surplus wid? 9 front ( ! wai/ to ! body x mu/ be r$uc$ by cutt+ gores4 ,"o l>ge gore 9 ! c5t] ( ! front w\ld be all t w\ld be necess>y to br+ ! %eet to ! body1 b t w\ld ?r[ too mu* surplus clo? on ! top ( t gore1 & all on "o spot1 & wr9kles w\ld =m across ! front ( *e/1 z 9 ! case ) all coats :i* are cut away 9 front ( ! wai/ & =c$ =w>d 9 ord] to button up4 ,to r$uce ! front edge only w make x a cutaway2 b t w nev] con=m a coat to ! oval body 9 front4 ,n[1 ! m gores we cut ! m w ev]y?+ be divid$ & ! bett] x w fit4 ,s1 9 place ( tak+ "o l>ge piece f ! c5t] ( ! front1 we may cut ?ree small gores--"o 9 ! c5t] ( ! front & "o 9 ea* middle ( ! =ep>ts "u ! nipple4 ,! "o 9 ! c5t] ( ! front is made 9 ! edge1 or ! seam1 & is simply a r$uction ( ! front edge4 ,! two gores 9 ! middle ( ea* =ep>t may be consid]$ 94 cut1 & two seams1 or 94 9 all4 ,^! cuts w balance ! front & give all ! oval %ape :i* ! *e/ ( a male requires4 ,on milit>y or cl]gym5's coats a cutt] is compell$ to make "o cut 9 ea* middle ( ! front if he wants a good front4 ,on su* coats no gore c be cut at ! front ( ! neck4 ,! natural run ( t gore is /raight d[nw>d1 />t+ at ! nipple1 or :]ev] ! front ( ! body turns backw>d t[>d ! front ( ! ?igh4 ,b we _c cut !m all ! way d[n ?r\gh ! skirt1 & s we turn x =w>d at ! wai/ seam4 ,x w be notic$ t ,dia4 ,,ii is cut )\t t gore1 b x is ?r[n into ! lapel seam1 & ! l>ge gore upw>d is ! result4 ,if ,dia4 ,,ii is made ) t gore1 !n ! front mu/ receive :atev] said gore takes up1 say ab\t 94 m4 ,milit>y & cl]gym5's coats %\ld be cut pretty /raight 9 front & %\ld h a l>ge gore1 say 941 cut 9 ! middle ( ! =ep>t1 & />t+ high up2 & ! c5t] ( ! front %\ld n be drawn 9 ) a /ay1 = ?is draw+ 9 ( ! front edge w l>gely return & %[ small wr9kles at ! edge1 p>ticul>ly on f9e broadclo?4 ,if all ! surplus clo? is cut away & balanc$ by t gore1 !n no?+ is to be drawn 91 & a /ay at ! edge is simply put on to keep x f /ret*+1 & to conf9e ! canvas closely & p]man5tly to ! edge4 ,on s+le-brea/$ sack coats a small gore may be cut "u ! lapel1 p>ticul>ly = a long] roll4 ,if a gore is cut = a %ort roll ! coll> mu/ be q /raight 9 front1 or else ! lapel w pull too f> d[nw>d4 ,b = a %ort roll x is j z well to omit x altoge!r1 or balance x o!rwise z foll[s3 ,aft] ! =ep>t has be5 ba/$ to ! canvas1 cut two or ?ree gores 9 ! canvas ov] & along ! *e/4 ,cut ea* gore ab\t in* wide1 & ab\t #c 94 across4 ,ar\nd ^! gores secure by good ba/+ ! position ( coat & canvas2 !n draw ! gores toge!r1 & %r9k away ! fullness ( ! outside1 :i* may easily be done1 !n put ! /ay on ev5--by :i* means all surplus clo?1 usually cut away z gores 9 ! front ( a frock coat1 is us$ up & balanc$ 9 a sack4 ,draw+ 9 ! canvas )\t cutt+ x w nev] make a smoo? job4 ,b all ?is requires--t ! coat be made by "o :o kn[s h[ to make x1 & is will+ to make x z x ought to be made4 ,o!rwise x w\ld be be/ to cut a sack )\t t gore4 ,on a d\ble-brea/$ sack ! gore "u ! lapel %\ld be l>ge & all surplus clo? tak5 away !re1 p>ticul>ly s if ! coat is to be button$ up to ! *94 ,! diagrams %[ ! position ( ! c5t] ( ! back & front z well z any description c make x1 b ! reason :y ,i h be5 describ+ x s closely is1 t ,i desire to %[ ! :y & :]e=e all seams are precisely s & s4 ,nei!r d ,i claim t !y mu/ all be j s1 by ! lea/ fraction ( an in*1 b to %[ a g5]al law :i* gov]ns ! :ole4 ,i mu/ ref] to /ill ano!r important po9t4 ,on a sack coat t is sew$ up all ar\nd ov] ! seat1 or ne>ly s1 ! side seam & ! seam 9 ! c5t] ( ! back may be bo? cut oval s z to give ! =m ( ! seat1 p>ticul>ly on a %ort sack4 ,on a frock coat ! back c5t] is ?r[n out bel[ ! tack1 & all r\ndness ov] ! seat is produc$ by two curv$ l9es on ! side ( ! back & side ( ! front skirts1 all ( :i* is %[n 9 ! diagrams4 ,! c5t] ( ! back is op5 bel[ ! tack1 & a curv$ l9e !re w\ld simply produce a curv$ edge1 b w\ld n give ! oval =m to ! g>m5t4 ,if x is desir$ to roll ! lapel fur!r d[n1 a gore %\ld be cut some:]e 9 ! =ep>t1 & :atev] ! gore & its seams take up mu/ be all[$ 9 front1 or else ! coat w be too small !re4 ,?is gore gives m r\ndness ( brea/ & consequ5tly a long] roll4 ,h[ev]1 x %\ld be borne 9 m9d t a long] roll ( lapel %\ld nev] be made wid] on top2 b1 on ! contr>y1 small]4 ,a l>ge or long roll mu/ be produc$ by r\ndness ( ! p>ts creat$ by gores f "s direction1 & n by ! wid? ( ! lapel4 ,= ?is purpose1 ,i w ref] to ! ov]coat 9 ,dia4 ,x4 ,if t ov]coat is cut = a %ort roll1 ! small gore w produce a good lapel2 b if ! roll is to be long]1 ! wid? ( ! lapel mu/ be r$uc$1 n by r$uc+ ! front edge1 b by enl>g+ ! gore "u ! lapel4 ,if ! lapel is n r$uc$ 9 wid?1 ! long roll w fall ov] too f> t[>d ! armhole1 & no coat looks well ) an extremely broad lapel on top4 ,! wid? ( ! lapel dep5ds on fa%ion1 b all lapels %\ld be wide en\gh to admit ! button-hole & leave a reasonable space 9 front & back ( x4 ,x looks bad to see ! button-hole too close to ! front edge1 or almo/ t\*+ ! seam beh9d4 ,accord+ to ! pres5t /yle1 a lapel %\ld be #b 94 wide at ! bottom1 #b 94 9 ! middle1 & f #b to #b on top2 b !re is no law aga9/ mak+ x a trifle wid] or small]4 ,b ?is "w has no?+ to d ) fa%ion1 & all fa%ionable po9ts mu/ be obta9$ f ! regul> reports ( fa%ion4 ,aga91 x w be notic$ on ! s+le-brea/$ coat1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i1 t ! front ( ! =ep>t has a gore cut 9 its c5t] at ! wai/ seam b none above or "u ! lapel4 ,!re be+ no gore "u ! lapel to produce ! oval =m ( ! *e/1 ! gore mu/ be cut bel[1 else ! coat w sw+ (f f ! front ( ! body4 ,! po9t ( t gore mu/ po9t to ! c5t] ( ! brea/1 & may run /raight d[nw>d or may be turn$ some:at backw>d4 ,:5ev] t gore is cut1 ! bottom ( ! =ep>t mu/ be r\nd$ on & along ! bottom ( ! gore1 or its sew+ up w cause a k9k at ! wai/ seam4 ,! front edge ( a ve/ mu/ also be expla9$1 al?\gh ! diff]5t diagrams _c fail to make ! correct impression4 ,9 ,dia4 ,,xiii1 x w be notic$ t 9 ! front ( ! neck a small gore has be5 cut1 :i* w br+ ! /raight front l9e to ! oval %ape ( ! body4 ,on a frock coat ! l>g] gore t[>d ! wai/ effects ! same ?+4 ,on a ve/ ! "u arm cut is made :]e ! gore 9 ! frock coat is cut1 & consequ5tly ! ve/ has t gore balanc$ 9 ! side seam4 ,a ve/ cut close up to ! neck & )\t coll> w\ld n look well to h a gore cut 9 front ( ! neck1 & s ! d$uction is made 9 front by />t+ ! front-edge ab\t #c numb]s f ! po9t ( #ace deg41 & on ! plumb l9e1 & meet+ ! front l9e aga9 at l9e #i4 ,on a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 :i* is int5d$ to button all ! way up to ! neck1 & lap ov] to ! o!r side1 ?is gore mu/ be cut1 n :]e x is m>k$ 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii1 b 9 a cut =m+ ! lapel1 & :i* cut %\ld be z l>ge z ! gore %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,x is impossible to make a d\ble-brea/$ g>m5t ( any k9d )\t t l>ge gore if x is int5d$ to fit ! =m :5 button$ ov]4 ,x is true1 v few ve/s ( t k9d are made2 b t k9d ( a cut mu/ be made 9 all d\ble-brea/$ g>m5ts if a well-fitt+ front is to be obta9$ :5 button$ up4 ,f l9e #i to l9e #ae ! front l9e is ! front edge ( a s+le-brea/$ ve/1 rec$+ a trifle at ! l[] button4 ,v few ve/s are cut all ! way up to ! neck1 & consequ5tly ! gore at ! neck1 z 9 ,dia4 ,,xiii1 is entirely cut away & ( no acc\nt4 ,s+le-brea/$ ve/s t button up1 say to ab\t #b 94 above l9e #i1 c be fitt$ )\t any gore2 b ! front edge %\ld be work$ s t x w n /ret* out 9 mak+1 p>ticul>ly ar\nd ! op5 neck4 ,l[-cut ve/s1 & )\t turn-d[n coll>s1 mu/ be fairly well drawn 9 at ! op5 neck1 or ! long op5+ w gape m or less4 ,s+le-brea/$ z well z d\ble-brea/$ ve/s ) a l[ op5+ %\ld h half an in* gore cut "u ! coll>4 ,! gap may be tak5 away by draw+ ! neck 9 ) a ?read or /ay2 b a gore is bett]--! mak] %\ld "k j :at to d ) x4 ,/ret*+ ! coll> w nev] d any good--x w give ! coll> a diff]5t %ape1 b w nev] br+ a gap+ front to ! body4 ,9 produc+ a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 #a to #a 94 may be add$ to ! front edge1 & ! buttons set back t mu* f ! place :]e !y w\ld be if ! ve/ 7 s+le-brea/$4 ,to obta9 ! prop] balance = ! bottom ( ! d\ble-brea/$ ve/ along ! buttons1 s t bo? sides meet1 sweep f #c at ! plumb base l9e on ,dia4 ,,iv ?r\gh ! bottom ( ! front "p ( ! angle ( #ae deg41 or z f> backw>d z ! buttons w be locat$4 ,?is is a sure sweep4 7,see ,dia4 ,,iv47 ,besides ! gore "u ! coll>1 or ! draw+ 9 ( ! edge ar\nd ! neck ( a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 ,i h f\nd 9 a majority ( cases t x is well to l5g!n ! back1 say in*--:i* gives ! front a bett] opportunity to settle 9 its place4 ,x is t5 times bett] to h ! back ( a ve/ a trifle too long ?an too %ort4 ,! diff]5ce betwe5 a ve/ & a coat may well be obs]v$ f ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii & ,,iv4 ,x is useless to describe !m1 & ,i w conclude ?is article ) ! foll[+ rem>ks3 ,a coat mu/ fit be/ beh9d & at ! %\ld]s1 = ! front c be regulat$ by mov+ ! buttons1 & = ?is reason a c5t] l9e 9 front is n important2 b x is v h&y to h "o = a sy/em1 :5ev] y want a /raight front4 ,a ve/ is int5d$ to fit be/ 9 front1 & = ?is reason ! front is cut loose at ! front ( ! wai/4 ,! ve/ is cut (f a few in*es bel[ ! wai/1 & a trifle loose clo? w n %[2 b if a coat 7 cut z loose !re ! skirt bel[ w\ld fl>e 9 all directions4 ,to regulate ! top button ( a coat & ve/1 s t ! coat w cov] ! ve/ :5 button$1 place ! top button-hole1 say on l9e #i = ! coat1 & 94 l[] = ! ve/4 ,! s+le-brea/$ coat has "o in* m clo? !re1 & ! button may be set back "o in* on ! coat1 & on ! ve/ z ne> z ! button-holes :5 button$4 ,! coat w cov] ! ve/ ab\t "o in*1 & ?is may be us$ z a guide :5ev] ! op5+ ( ! coat & ve/ are l[]$4 ,to ! c5t] ( ! front also belongs ! lapel1 & a cutt] %\ld "k j h[ mu* to use = t purpose1 & ) t object 9 view exam9e ! front ( a cl]gyman's coat z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i4 ,a coat ( ?is k9d is1 ( c\rse1 )\t turnov] or lapel1 b x mu/ be loose1 ?\gh n too wide2 & if x is correct t ! angle ( #ace deg4 makes ! top ( ! front j l>ge en\gh to sew x up ) a seam1 provid+ a l>ge gore is cut bel[ at ! wai/1 !n x foll[s t ! buttons & front ( ! button-holes mu/ be sew$ "o seam back ( t l9e1 & en\gh clo? left 9 front ( ! base z is requir$ 9 front ( ! button-holes & 9 front ( ! buttons4 ,if ! edge is b\nd half an in* on ! button-hole side & "o in* on ! button side x w answ] v well2 b if ! edge is turn$ 9 "o m seam mu/ be all[$4 ,! space 9 front ( ! button-holes %\ld n be less ?an five-eigh?s in*es & may be ?ree-f\r?s1 & ! button side may h "o-half an in* m = extra lap4 ,n[1 ,i w ref] to ,dia4 ,,iii & ,,xii4 ,obs]ve ! circle :i* is drawn f #fj degs4 on ! "r & ?r\gh #ace degs41 :i* circle gives z good a top to ! lapel z any?+ t c be contriv$1 & ! :ole front produces an extreme cut-away4 ,if ! lapel is to be run fur!r d[n1 all we f9d necess>y to d is to all[ on ! bottom ( ! lapel1 say ?ree-f\r?s in*es1 & %ape ! upp] "p accord+ to notion4 ,if we desire a long roll ( ! lapel1 a gore %\ld be cut "u ! lapel1 & ! gore & seam aga9 all[$ 9 front1 s t ! orig9al wid? ( ! circle & on top ( ! lapels1 is n de/roy$4 ,!re is no "q b t a l>g] lapel requires a trifle m wid? ar\nd ! second or ?ird button-hole1 b h[ mu* mu/ always dep5d ^u ! notions ( ! cutt]2 b 9 all cases ! lapel ( a s+le-brea/$ coat %\ld be l>ge en\gh to all[ ! second or ?ird button-hole1 or all1 to be made )\t com+ 9 ! break ( ! roll1 & a neat lapel ne$ nev] be l>g] ?an = t purpose1 no matt] h[ l[ x is to roll4 ,x is "h :]e ! t\*es ( a fancy cutt] c be se51 & a cutt] has always a *ance to become m pr(ici5t on t po9t4 ,ev5 ) ! greate/ c>e he may (t5 obta9 a lapel t does n suit him4 ,b ! cutt] alone c n d all4 ,! j\rneyman mu/ h ! ta/e & ! ability to make x s t x w n only suit ! cutt]1 b w also be admir$ by ! public4 ,if ! front ( ,dia4 ,i 0 to be sew$ toge!r ) a seam l ! back1 ! front l9e ( ! angle ( #ace degs4 w\ld h to be cut ?r\gh1 & t w\ld fit d[n to betwe5 l9es #ae & #ag1 b bel[ t po9t ! front w\ld h to be r$uc$ #ae degs41 & at ! same "t :]e ! front requires r$uction1 ! back requires an addition1 all ( :i* is %[n 9 ,dia4 ,i4 ,!re is "o m important po9t to be consid]$ 9 connection ) ! c5t] ( front & back1 & ?is is ! l5g?4 ,= p>ticul> =ms1 or = odd =ms1 x may be measur$ z foll[s3 ,f ! top ( back measure /raight d[n beh9d1 & aga91 f ! top ( back measure =w>d1 /rik+ po9t #aa on ! plumb base l9e1 z ne> z y c1 & f t po9t g /raight d[n to a level bottom = bo? back & front4 ,to obta9 t level bottom by ! scale1 make bo? back & front ev5 long f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace degs4 = a frock coat1 aft] all seams are sew$4 ,= a sack coat1 make ! front ab\t %ort] ?an ! back1 = ! reason t ! back ( a sack coat is also %ort] ?an t ( a frock coat1 & :i* is fully illu/rat$ by ! lap ( ! bottom ( ! sidepiece & top ( skirt 9 ,dia4 ,,iii4 ,?is calculation holds good = ! normal =m1 & = ! long or = ! %ort neck1 b = ! /oop+ & = ! erect =m x ought to be measur$1 especially 9 extreme cases4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,! ,,wai/ ,,seam ,,& ,,bottom4 ,x _c be suppos$ t all seams ( a coat w run accord+ to ! slope ( ! body :5 a patt]n is laid on ! flat table4 ,! run ( ! seams1 :5 cov]+ ! crook$ =m ( a man1 mu/ always assume a diff]5t position :5 laid out on a flat surface1 :i* is fully demon/rat$ 9 ! back slope ( pants4 ,b a cutt] %\ld "k h[ mu* !y are out ( ge> f a c]ta9 l9e or base4 ,if a cutt] is able to cut a frock coat ) a wai/ seam runn+ horizontally ar\nd ! body :5 ! coat is on1 !n x w be easy = him to produce a squ>e bottom1 :i* is always 9 good /yle1 & a coat t is too long or too %ort at "o place is always a misfit4 ,on ! contr>y1 a horizontal wai/ seam is n 9 good ta/e4 ,a /yli% wai/ seam is on a g5tle curve upw>d at ! side :5 ! coat is ^u ! body4 ,tak+ ! side z a guide1 ! back may be 94 l[]1 & ! front may be #a 94 l[]4 ,b ! position ( ! human =m is s diff]5t 9 diff]5t individuals t we c seldom f9d two m5 record+ ! same position ( ! wai/ seam :5 hav+ ! same coat on4 ,?is be+ ! case1 a cutt] %\ld come z ne> to x z possible4 ,! true position ( ! bottom ( a coat1 or ( ! run ( ! wai/ seam1 c be/ be f\nd by measur+ ) a /raight-edge f ! level floor upw>d4 ,! position ( t seam1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 may be consid]$ z a fa%ionable run1 b !re is no law to prev5t u f curv+ x m or less4 ,z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iii1 x w be notic$ t l5g? ( ! back is absorb$ by ! lap ( ! top ( ! skirt1 & bottom ( side piece1 & consequ5tly ! front mu/ also be %ort5$ t am\nt1 at ! bottom f ! side =w>d1 9 ord] to make x squ>e4 ,on ! sack coat ! back & side piece are 9 ! same position1 & consequ5tly ! bottom is squ>e4 ,! %av+ (f ( ! front ( ! skirt = cutaways has no?+ to d ) ! =ego+ calculation4 ,s f> ,i h paid att5tion mo/ly to /raight fronts1 because !y mu/ be cut j "r1 = a /raight front coat w be spoil$ if ! bottom ( ! skirt laps ov] too mu* or hangs ap>t4 ,9 cutaway coats no su* tr\ble exi/s1 b x is necess>y to obs]ve ! foll[+ diff]5ce betwe5 a cutaway & a /raight front4 ,a /raight front is usually a long] coat ?an a cutaway4 ,a long] coat is requir$ to h a full] skirt t[>d ! bottom1 s t1 9 walk+1 ! legs c h play en\gh & yet n /rike ! coat ) e /ep2 & ! long] ! coat ! m space is requir$4 ,a cutaway coat is always a %ort coat1 b a %ort coat may also h a /raight front4 ,n[1 a %ort coat %\ld h its skirt s arrang$ t x w close 9 well to ! body & n fl>e 9 all directions2 & = ?is purpose ,i ref] to ,dia4 ,,iii1 :i* front is ! prop] %ape = a regul> cutaway1 z well z = a dress coat4 ,bel[ ! gore1 9 ! c5t] ( ! =ep>t1 ! upp] seam j laps ov] ! skirt en\gh to /raight5 ! seam :5 ! gore is sew$ up4 ,! gore itself w\ld naturally run /raight d[nw>d1 b x is turn$ at ! wai/ seam & run =w>d into ! skirt seam1 :i* w take away all surplus fl>e at ! side ( ! skirt4 ,! connection ( ! top ( ! skirt & side piece is ! same = all coats4 ,all mu/ hang ! same 7/raight d[n at ! back71 & all *anges betwe5 ! full skirt & cutaway are made f ! "u arm cut1 =w>d4 ,a v good way to *ange ! full skirt ( ,dia4 ,,ii to t ( a cutaway is z foll[s3 ,cut ! skirt patt]n l ,dia4 ,,ii1 !n f ! "u arm cut d[nw>d1 fold up ! patt]n1 say #a 94 at l9e #cj4 ,! side piece & skirt rema9 /ation>y4 ,! fold is br\ght f ! top ( ! front1 & ! top ( ! front ( ! skirt is *ang$ to ! %ape ( ,dia4 ,,iii4 ,all frock coats %\ld fall /raight d[nw>d f ! seat1 :e!r long or %ort1 & = ?is purpose ,i h made ! backs ! same on bo? cutaways & /raight fronts1 bo? leav+ p]fect connection betwe5 ! bottom ( ! side piece & ! top ( ! back skirt1 except ,dia4 ,,iii1 :i* is produc$ = a diff]5t purpose4 ,all *anges 9 ! spr+ t[>d ! bottom ( a coat mu/ be made by r$uc+ ! lap betwe5 ! =ep>t & ! skirt f ! side seam =w>d4 ,dia4 ,,ii may be consid]$ to h en\gh spr+ = a full fl[+ skirt ( ! pres5t /yle1 :ile ! cutaway may be made ev5 at ! front1 b s t ! top ( ! skirt & ! bottom ( ! =ep>t run on a g5tle curve1 aft] ! gore 9 ! =ep>t is sew$ up4 ,t "p ( ! wai/ seam ( a cutaway %\ld be cut l ,dia4 ,,iii1 t is1 a lap ( ab\t at ! gore upw>d1 & ev5 aga9 9 front4 ,dia4 ,,iii is made ) a gore 9 ! front ( ! wai/ seam1 b t gore is calculat$ = a dress coat skirt1 :i* requires ! skirt to close 9 pretty well :5 ! coat is on1 & is good = all extreme cutaways4 ,9 ! production ( a dress coat x w aga9 be f\nd h&y to h ! coat & ve/ on ! same base1 because x looks horrid to see su* a coat front %ort] ?an ! ve/4 ,! back1 & ! fold betwe5 ! back & ! front skirt1 & all ov] & bel[ ! side piece1 mu/ be ! same on all coats1 t is1 all mu/ hang /raight d[n4 ,b aft] all1 ! back skirt ( a cutaway may be cut clos] ?an ! skirt 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 = ! reason t a %ort cutaway cut scant at ! bottom ( ! back skirt w n g ap>t z easily z x w\ld d if cut1 say #aj 94 long]4 ,dia4 ,,ii gives a good repres5tation ( ! run ( ! bottom1 & ! lap at ! wai/ seam %[s #a numb] extra l5g? = ! curve ( ! *e/4 ,! skirt ( any d\ble-brea/$ frock coat %\ld be cut s t :5 done & ! front laps ov]1 bo? ! wai/ seam & ! bottom meet4 ,n[1 provid+ ! l5g?s are all well calculat$1 x becomes simple to make ^! po9ts meet1 & x is done z foll[s3 ,9 front ( ! plumb base l9e make ! skirt ev5 l5g? & %ape 9 all respects l ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,f ! "u arm cut =w>d1 s9k ! =ep>t wai/ seam #a at ! plumb base l9e & ! same at ! front edge4 ,at ! bottom drop ! front ( ! skirt ab\t to 4 ,! bottom ( ! back is long] at ! side ?an x is beh9d1 or at "r angles ) ! c5t] l9e ( ! c5t] ( ! back4 ,at l9e #cj ! c5t] ( ! back is ?r[n out #a numb] & t mu* is aga9 r$uc$ at ! side ( ! back1 z a gore4 ,?r[+ outside #a 94 & cutt+ #a 94 away at ! side produces ! oval %ape ov] ! seat4 ,if ! c5t] ( ! back 0 plac$ at ! base & ! sides made ev5 f l9e #be d[n1 !n ! :ole back "p w\ld appe> flat4 ,! "u arm cuts 9 ,dias4 ,,ii & ,,iv1 are bas$ ^u ! diff]5ce ( ! diamet] ( ! body f side to side1 close "u ! arm & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,! diamet] ( ! normal male =m may be consid]$ to measure "o in* less at ! wai/ ?an at ! *e/1 bo? backw>d & =w>d & sidewise1 & ! circumf]5ce ( su* a body may be comput$ z be+ "o-n9? less wai/ ?an ! brea/ on ! :ole measure1 z #cf brea/ & #cb wai/4 ,n[1 x %\ld be obs]v$ t ,dia4 ,,ii & ,dia4 ,,iv are laid out 9 diff]5t squ>es1 & t if ,dia4 ,,iv 7 laid out 9 ! same squ>e z is ,dia4 ,,ii1 ! gore "u ! arm w\ld be #c at ! wai/1 z x is on ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,:5 ,i say above1 t all coats & ve/s h ! "u arm cut calculat$ accord+ to ! diff]5ce ( ! diamet] ( ! wai/ f side to side1 ,i mean a coat laid out z %[n 9 ,dias4 ,,ii & ,,xii1 & a ve/ z laid out z %[n 9 ,dias4 ,,iv & ,,xi4 ,ea* requires ab\t "o in* r$uction at ! wai/ & at ! "u arm cut4 ,! coat is simply t mu* l>g] ov] ! hips1 z ! sw+ ( ! side piece f a squ>e ( #bj to a squ>e ( #ag am\nts to4 ,! squ>e ( #ah1 = ei!r a ?ree-seam$ sack1 or a frock coat1 may be r$uc$ at ! wai/ z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 & if ! diamet] ( ! wai/ indicates t m space is requir$ at ! side1 x %\ld be all[$ accord+ to t indication4 ,"s m5 are q well fill$ out 9 ! sides ( ! body & flat 9 front1 :ile o!rs require m wai/ proportion 9 front4 ,! wai/ proportion on a frock coat _c be made accord+ to ! close measure tak5 ov] ! ve/1 b mu/ be made accord+ to ! measure ov] a well-fitt+ coat :5 button$ up1 & to be tak5 z l>ge & z loose1 yet z snug1 z ! coat really requires x to be4 ,"s may call ?is an actual measure1 & "s may cont5d t ?is measure _c be tak5 correctly1 b1 be t z x may1 nev]!less x is a measure1 :i* gives an indication ( :at is want$1 & also a tru] indication ?an a measure tak5 tightly ov] ! wai/4 ,by ! wai/ measure1 ,i mean ! measure at ! holl[ ( ! wai/ & n ! wai/ seam ( a frock coat4 ,! holl[ ( ! wai/ is a p]man5t po9t on e human body1 b ! wai/ seam *anges accord+ to /yle or notion2 & ! wid? ( t seam %\ld come pretty ne> to ! actual measure tak5 ov] ! coat :5 button$ up4 ,9 ord] to obs]ve ! diff]5ce ( ! location ( wai/ proportion1 let u consid] ,dia4 ,i1 :i* is laid out 9 ! same position z a ve/1 al?\gh ! squ>e is l>g]4 ,"h we f9d a r$uction ( at ! holl[ ( ! back1 or betwe5 ! sidepiece & back2 & on l9e #bj we f9d a spr+ ( at ! wai/ seam betwe5 ! front & sidepiece4 ,! normal =m requires a r$uction ( #a 94 at ! "u arm cut1 on a ve/1 & ab\t 9 front1 :i* is aga9 ?r[n out beh9d z a spr+ ov] ! seat2 & :i* is n wai/ r$uction or wai/ addition1 b mu/ be consid]$ z some?+ to con=m ) ! turn ( ! body f ! pit ( ! /oma* d[nw>d & f ! holl[ ( ! wai/ 9 ! back d[nw>d4 ,?is cut "u ! arm on a squ>e ( #bj is a natural gore = a ve/1 :ile = a coat ! same spot requires a spr+1 :i* is also a natural "o = a coat1 & bo? are 9 _! place because ! nature ( ! g>m5t requires x1 n ! body itself4 ,!re are m5 ) q small & tap]+ wai/s1 & = su* ! und]>m cut mu/ be made l>g]1 :ile o!rs ) v full wai/s spread sidewise & require ! "u arm cut small]--or no cut at all b a spr+4 ,n[1 9 mak+ our calculation = ! wai/ proportion accord+ to diamet] ( ! body1 ! foll[+ mu/ be obs]v$3 ,if ! full diamet] ( ! wai/1 f side to side1 is #a 94 less ?an t ( ! *e/ f side to side & "u ! arm1 x w ?r[ in* tap] on ea* side2 b ! diamet] cov]s ! d\ble body1 & ! d\ble g>m5t1 or "o front & "o back on ea* side1 consequ5tly ea* half back & ea* half front requires a tap]1 or a r$uction ( in*1 & = ?is reason ! ve/1 z a g>m5t cut close to ! body1 has a r$uction ( #a 94 "u ! arm1 & :i* #a 94 is to be tak5 away on ! =ep>t z be+ ! be/ %ape4 ,on a ve/1 ,i f9d t all wai/ all[ances may be divid$ betwe5 ! side & front ) v satisfactory results1 b extremes %\ld h a trifle m 9 front ?an at ! side4 ,on a coat1 ! mo/ ( wai/ all[ances %\ld be at ! side1 because surplus clo? at ! front ( a coat w produce too mu* skirt bel[1 :ile on a ve/ x w n %[1 because ! ve/ is cut (f or ends a few in*es bel[ ! wai/4 ,! cut betwe5 ! sidepiece & back ( a frock coat %\ld nev] be *ang$ = wai/ proportion4 ,?is cut is n made or calculat$ accord+ to wai/ proportion1 b is made = conv5i5t cutt+4 ,h[ev]1 ?is mu/ be obs]v$3 ,%ort m5 require ! wai/ high] up ?an ! scale produces1 & 9 consequ5ce ! holl[1 or ! turn ( ! sidepiece1 %\ld be :]e ! holl[ ( ! wai/ actually is1 & n at l9e #ag1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,!re=e j ! contr>y mu/ be obs]v$ on tall & sl5d] p]sons4 ,i f9d t ! diff]5ce ( ! l5g? ( ! wai/ betwe5 %ort & tall p]sons is ab\t ?is3 ,if ! /yle all[s ! wai/ seam to be locat$ at l9e #bj = ! normal =m1 !n a %ort p]son may h t seam at #ai & a tall "o at #ba1 :ile ! holl[ ( ! wai/ is #b high]1 all ( :i* c be measur$ on ea* cu/om]4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,l>ge ,,wai/s ,,& ,,! ,,normal ,,=m4 ,?is article includes all sizes1 f ! smalle/ *ild to ! l>ge/ man1 & is to be appli$ on all =ms ^: :ole wai/ measure is m ?an "o-n9? "p less ?an brea/4 ,:5 a *ild is born its wai/ is l>g] ?an its brea/4 ,! normal gr[? ( ! wai/ is a con/ant r$uction ( its relative proportion to ! brea/1 until we may f9d1 at ! age ( #bj1 a wai/ ( ab\t f\r in*es less ?an brea/4 ,aft] t age ! wai/ has a t5d5cy to become l>g] aga91 m or less1 until we aga9 f9d "s individuals ) ! same wai/ proportion z :5 !y 7 born4 ,n[1 is n a *ild ) its wai/ l>g] ?an its brea/1 ( normal proportion8 ,is n a man :o measures #dh brea/ & #ej wai/1 ( normal proportion8 ,! pres5t conception ( a normal =m1 z be+ f\r in*es less wai/ ?an brea/1 is wrong4 ,?is proportion is f\nd 9 ! m$ium sizes1 z #cf brea/ & #cb wai/ b x c be call$ a normal =m = t size only4 ,we may f9d #dd brea/ & #dj wai/1 b !y are exceptions1 ?\gh ,i h f\nd "o #dc brea/ & #cg wai/4 ,! *ild ( #bd brea/ & #bj wai/ is n to be f\nd2 consequ5tly ! normality ( ! proportion ( f\r in*es less wai/ ?an brea/ is a my? z f> z cutt+ g>m5ts is conc]n$1 & cutt]s mu/ make calculations = ea* individual cu/om]2 or1 z 9 cutt+ = ready made clo?+1 ! diff]5t sizes mu/ be classifi$ accord+ to _! normal conditions4 ,b tak+ #cf brea/ & #cb wai/ z normal = t size1 we f9d also t x means a wai/ :i* is "o-n9? "p less ?an ! brea/1 & if we make a diagram to fit t size & enl>ge x to size #ed1 x w fit a wai/ "o-n9? less ?an t brea/1 or a wai/ ( #dh2 b su* =ms are n 9 exi/5ce z f> z ,i "k4 ,if we dim9i% x to brea/ size #bg1 x w fit a wai/ ( #bd1 :i* may come pretty ne> to a great _m boys ( t size2 b ! great majority ( t size h full] wai/s1 & ! y\ng] ! *ild is ! l>g] its wai/ proportion w be f\nd to be4 ,b be=e we proce$ fur!r1 rememb] t 9 try+ to fit coats 9 ! back accord+ to ! wai/ proportion1 m g>m5ts are spoil$ ?an made bett]2 =1 9 ! fir/ place1 ! smallness ( ! back "p ( a coat does n dep5d on wai/ proportion at all1 z %[n else:]e4 ,! holl[ ( ! wai/ beh9d is n to be fitt$ at all1 b pass$ ov]2 & its proportion is ( no acc\nt until x is almo/ z l>ge z ! brea/4 ,brea/ #dj & wai/ #cg requires no addition to ! wai/4 ,brea/ #db & wai/ #de 7) seat #de7 ,i f9d ,i c fit v well by omitt+ ! gore "u ! arm1 & 9 place ( ! gore lapp+ ! side piece & front 94 at ! wai/ seam1 & add+ #a 9 front1 :i* w all[ #c 94 extra wid? = a wai/ t is #f 94 out ( proportion on ! :ole4 ,& x is fur!r acc\nt$ = z foll[s3 ,! #a 94 omitt$ gore & ! lap makes #a1 & ! #a 9 front make #c 94 9 all1 or only "o-half ( ! actual measure1 :i* may appe> z too small1 b we mu/ consid] t ! holl[ ( ! wai/ = ! normal =m is n to be fitt$ b pass$ ov]1 & a l>g] wai/ w fill x out bett]1 t is all4 ,to obta9 a correct wai/ proportion on a coat is q a trick1 & _c be le>n$ f ! books2 & a cutt] mu/ consid] ea* cu/om] well4 ,a correct wai/ measure may be tak5 ov] a well fitt+ coat :5 button$ up1 & ! coat made precisely l t measure--all seams & lap = buttons & button holes to be tak5 into consid]ation4 ,"o ?+ %\ld be obs]v$3 ,! front angle ( #ae deg4 is #e numb]s wide at l9e #bj1 :]e ! wai/ seam is locat$4 ,b on a l>ge =m ! wai/ is high] up1 say at l9e #ah1 & ! wid? ( ! front angle 7z #e at #bj7 mu/ be re-e/abli%$ at1 say #ah2 t is1 we mu/ g outside ( ! front l9e ( #ae deg4 ,! same ?+ ought to be done at ! side1 & ! lap ( made at ! wai/ seam & n at l9e #bj4 ,l9e #ag is e/abli%$ = ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & l9e #ae z ! turn+ po9t ( ! body 9 front4 ,l9e #bj z indicat$ is = ! top ( ! hips1 & ! wai/ seam = a frock coat reg>dless ( /yle or fa%ion4 ,b on corpul5t m51 ^! l9es /& too f> d[n1 & on slim p]sons !y are too f> up2 consequ5tly1 ^! l5g?s mu/ be measur$1 & z ! wai/ seam runs at "r angles ) ! back1 z on a squ>e ( #ag1 & z a po9t = l9e #bj1 take ! outside ( ! elb[1 & = l9e #ag take ! inside ( ! elb[4 ,! elb[s are a sure guide1 = !y always fit into ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & no man c /rike bo? ( 8 hip bones ) bo? ( 8 elb[s at ! same "t4 ,z a g5]al rule1 ,i claim t ! angle ( #ace deg4 w cov] e =m ( l>ge wai/s1 provid+ ! sides & ! %\ld]s fit4 ,e cutt] c try ?is by cutt+ ! d\ble angle ( #ace deg41 neck & all1 & put x on z a cape by clos+ x 9 front4 ,to imitate ! l>ge wai/ simply lift ! front edge =w>d--& notice ! result4 ,or x may also be tri$ on a corpul5t =m1 :5 x w be f\nd t ! angle ( #ace deg4 w cov] x4 ,a piece ( patt]n pap] w d = t purpose1 or ev5 a piece ( musl94 ,b coats are n made f %eet iron1 & if o!rwise well balanc$ c /& a great deal ( abuse at "s places4 ,!re=e1 no cutt] w fail if he divides ! extra wai/ proportion int5d$ to be all[$ into ?ree equal p>ts & place two p>ts at ! side & "o "p 9 front1 />t+ all at ! armscye l9es4 ,on coats all all[ances %\ld be scant 9 front1 because pl5ty all[ance !re w\ld ?r[ too mu* skirt 9 front4 ,a ve/ is cut (f a few in*es bel[ ! turn ( ! body a trifle m w n %[1 & may be balanc$ aga9 by cutt+ a gore 9 ! middle ( ! =ep>t bel[ ! pockets1 p>ticul>ly if ! abdom5 turns v abruptly4 ,a ve/ is bett] 94 too l>ge 9 ! front ( ! wai/ ?an t mu* too small4 ,on a frock coat1 extra wai/ proportion c be giv5 by divid+ x all ov] ! front & side ( ! =ep>t2 b on a ?ree-seam$ sack ! side seam is too f> beh9d to be ( mu* help4 ,& x is be/ to enl>ge ! squ>e ( #ah numb]s to ! am\nt ( wai/ proportion requir$1 & r$uce x aga9 by a cut "u ! arm upw>d1 z a five-seam$1 = bo? "u & ov]coats4 ,brea/ #dh & wai/ #ej c be fitt$ by enl>g+ ! squ>e f #a to #a 94--#a 94 (t5 yields excell5t results4 ,b by enl>g+ ! squ>e = any purpose1 we ought to consid] ?is3 ,if we enl>ge ! squ>e #a 941 po9t #ac1 z on a sack1 & on l9e #i 9 front w s9k d[n ( ! #a 941 :i* w make ! back t mu* %ort] on l9e #aa4 ,?is is v little1 b x ought to be kn[n to ! cutt] t a %ort back is always bett] = a l>ge wai/$ =m ?an a long back4 7,see ,dia4 ,x47 ,be> 9 m9d t an "u coat = a l>ge wai/$ =m is ab\t ! same ?+ z an ov]coat t fits ! normal =m4 ,!re is always a class ( m5 f\nd :o compla9 t !y seldom h a coat l>ge en\gh 9 ! armholes1 unless ! coat is too l>ge all ov]4 ,su* p]sons are usually well fill$ up at ! side ( wai/ & hips1 & require _! coats l>ge !re1 & if ?is is n done1 ! sew$ up back _c give1 & consequ5tly ! coat mu/ give 9 front1 & ! :ole ( x is drawn backw>d1 tak+ ! armhole ) x1 & /rik+ ! front ( ! arm1 :ile ! back ( ! armhole %[s too mu* clo?4 ,a coat :i* sw+s loose at ! back & ar\nd ! side ( ! wai/ w nev] cut ! front ( ! arm2 x may be small all ar\nd ! armhole1 b x w only feel close & w n saw on "o spot only4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,/oop+ ,,=ms4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,,ix47 ,/oop+ =ms h s _m v>iations t x is impossible to describe !m all4 ,! t]m 8/oop+0 is g5]ally appli$ to p]sons ) prom95t %\ld] blades4 ,we f9d !m comb9$ ) long & %ort necks1 l>ge & small wai/s1 holl[ or flat 9 ! back & front ( ! wai/1 & arms ?r[n backw>d or =w>d4 ,all ( ^! conditions mu/ be obs]v$ & sep>ately calculat$1 & a cutt] w be kept con/antly busy & on ! wat*4 ,x is only :]e a cutt] is ?or\ghly acqua9t$ ) ! work+s ( ?is sy/em ( bases t he w be able to fit all =ms z ne> z he is expect$ to d4 ,all k9ds ( measures h be5 devis$1 & all sorts ( imag9>y bases h be5 adopt$ to fit ! =ms ( a man2 b :]e "o cutt] succe$s ) a c]ta9 appliance1 o!rs utt]ly fail4 ,! fact is1 ev5 if all measures %\ld give ! correct am\nt1 ! body itself c\ld n be fitt$ except on a few specifi$ po9ts1 & all defects %\ld be cov]$ up 9 place ( imitat+ !m4 ,to fit ! /oop+ =m 9 all its details w\ld result 9 a misfit f ! />t1 p>ticul>ly :5 ! back ( ! wai/ is v holl[4 ,if we take a coat t fits a normal =m1 & put x on a /oop+ =m ( ! same size1 & button x "u ! *91 ! neck w fit1 b w /ick out beh9d at ! wai/ & spread ap>t 9 front4 ,a reasonable way ( alt]+ x is to r$uce ! back seam ( ! side piece f ! blade d[n1 :i* w produce m curve ov] ! blade & give m l5g? to ! back2 & :at is tak5 (f beh9d at ! wai/ is all[$ 9 front4 ,x is g5]ally tak5 = grant$ t a /oop+ =m requires 8 armholes m =w>d1 b ?is is n always ! case1 = "s ( !m ?r[ _! arms backw>d2 & we f9d ! contr>y 9 a great _m erect =ms1 :o ?r[ _! arms =w>d--all ( :i* ! cutt] mu/ obs]ve4 ,n[1 suppose we p]mit ! coat to be loose "u ! *91 & button "o or two l[] buttons4 ,9 ?is case we %all f9d t ! coat w fit 9 ! back ( ! wai/1 b at ! neck x w be too loose & w gape all ar\nd ! front4 ,if we ga!r ! wr9kles toge!r 9 front we c make ! brea/ fit ! =m1 al?\gh ! top ( ! back may be too %ort4 ,s we c make our alt]ation on ! spot aga91 always provid+1 h[ev]1 t we are alt]+ ! patt]n only1 by />t+ at ! front sleeve nick & lay+ a fold =w>d to ! am\nt ( :atev] ! fullness ( ! coat may indicate4 ,?is aga9 w alt] ! patt]n f t direction4 ,x makes ! front %ort] 9 place ( mak+ ! back long]4 ,?is la/ is ! mo/ reasonable way to alt] a coat = ! /oop+ =m1 = x mu/ be rememb]$ t 9 bo? erect & /oop+ =ms ! *ange proce$s f front to back1 & at ! wai/4 ,! backbone is solid1 al?\gh x b5ds1 b x nev] becomes long] or %ort] on ! same =m4 ,if ! body ?r[s itself =w>d into a /oop+ position1 ! back b5ds & ! front contracts at ! pit ( ! /oma*4 ,if ! body ?r[s itself upw>d 9 a m erect position1 ! back b5ds ! o!r way & ! front exp&s at ! pit ( ! /oma*4 ,! front only exp&s or contracts at ! pit ( ! /oma*4 ,! backbone mu/ be consid]$ a h+e on :i* ! :ole body sw+s1 j l a door on its h+es2 & all alt]ation may be made f t po9t1 ei!r by /ret*+ "s p>ts or by fold+ up ! patt]n be=e ! g>m5t is cut4 ,if a /oop+ =m ?r[s 8 arms =w>d1 !n ! armholes mu/ be fur!r =w>d ( ! front sleeve base4 ,b 9 t case ! front sleeve base mu/ be j z mu* advanc$4 ,& aga93 ,:atev] ! front ( ! armhole has be5 advanc$ mu/ be add$ to ! back ( ! armhole1 = a /oop+ =m has no l>g] arm ?an an erect =m4 ,! armhole mu/ be mov$ =w>d1 b made no l>g]4 ,?is con/ant backw>d & =w>d movem5t ( ! neck1 wai/1 & %\ld]s is "o ( ! greate/ /udies any cutt] w be oblig$ to g ?r\gh1 z x is1 9 fact1 ! only v>iation to be f\nd 9 ! normal =m :i* _c be measur$1 b mu/ be tak5 by ! tra9$ eye ( ! cutt]1 & 8 practical k ( h[ to alt]4 ,actual measurem5t1 by :atev] measure or "n x may be call$1 is a delusion1 = all s-call$ long or %ort measures ar\nd ! %\ld]s1 neck & arms mu/ be tak5 close ov] a body :i* we d n int5d to fit z snugly z ! measure itself4 ,z a rule1 said measures are seldom appli$1 or transf]r$ to a flat patt]n on ! same l9e z !y h be5 tak5 ov] ! =m itself4 ,= illu/ration1 we w exam9e ! s-call$ upp] %\ld] measure1 f ! top ( ! c5t] ( ! back to ar\nd "u ! arm & back aga9 to ! place ( beg9n+4 ,said measure is always to be tak5 close1 because any slack w\ld aga9 cause great v>iation 9 ! h&s ( diff]5t cutt]s4 ,by tak+ x close ! tape w n /rike ! body ( ! coat "u ! arm at all1 because ! armhole is l[] ?an ! body itself1 b ! tape pulls ! sleeve up & passes above ! armhole4 ,if cutt]s w g to ! tr\ble & make a l9e on _! patt]ns ov] :i* !y transf] t measure1 & !n draw /it*es 91 !y w f9d t :5 ! coat is on ! body !y _c ev5 foll[ said /it*es ) ! tape l9e1 unless x is fa/5$ e few in*es4 ,if t be ! case1 :at good is ! measure8 ,if t measure is to d a cutt] any good he mu/ be able to foll[ a c]ta9 trail on ! patt]n1 z he does on ! coat :5 on ! body1 b t _c be done4 ,!re is no "o s bl9d z he :o does n want to see4 ,if ! pit ( ! /oma* contracts or exp&s1 t is no pro( t ! %\ld] & arms also draw out ( _! normal position4 ,if ! brea/ measure be tak5 correctly1 z direct$ 9 ?is "w1 pass+ ov] ! po9t ( ! %\ld] blades1 !n ! r\nd %\ld]s ( a /oop+ =m1 & ! flat ones ( an erect =m are includ$ )9 ! measure4 ,consequ5tly no?+ c be add$ to ! blade = a r\nd back nor tak5 away = a flat back--! *ange mu/ be above or bel[1 not)/&+ ! appe>ance ( ,dia4 ,,ii ,b4 ,! r\nd back requires 8 armhole m =w>d1 & :at is tak5 out 9 front ( ! armhole is aga9 all[$ on ! back1 mak+ ! back broad]4 ,if ! back ( ! armhole is n suppli$ ) :at is tak5 out 9 front1 ! "u & back sleeve w drag & pull backw>d4 ,because ! /oop+ =m may ?r[ 8 arm =w>d1 is no indication t 8 arms becomes l>g]1 b x demon/rates t 8 armhole mu/ be locat$ m =w>d4 ,b aga93 ,because a man is /oop+ is no indication t 8 back mu/ be r\nd4 ,a man may ?r[ 8 neck d[nw>d 9 front1 b may also ?r[ 8 arms backw>d1 & /& v erect 9 ! wai/4 ,su* a =m requires 8 neck hole d[nw>d 9 front b does n require 8 armhole =w>d4 ,! front & back ( ! armhole may be locat$ z = ! normal =m1 or ev5 = ! erect =m4 ,fur!r3 ,because a man is class$ among ! erect =ms is no pro( t 8 back mu/ be flat4 ,we f9d pl5ty ( s-call$ erect =ms :o ?r[ _! arms =w>d1 & _! backs become v /raight 9 l5g?4 ,! t]ms normal1 /oop+ & erect are v indef9ite1 & ,i d n believe t any man is1 or ev] w be able to describe a /oop+ =m alone 9 all its v>iations & comb9ations4 ,all t c be done is to po9t out c]ta9 =ms2 & ! cutt] :o />ts out on 8 cutt+ t\r ?r\gh life mu/ always be on 8 gu>d1 & /udy 8 cu/om]s1 & impr9t _! =ms ^u 8 own bra94 ,n[1 z ! brea/ measure conta9s ! full size ( a r\nd z well z a flat %\ld] blade1 we mu/ come to ! foll[+ conclusion3 ,t ! /oop+ =m requires simply m l5g? 9 ! back1 or less l5g? ov] ! front1 & ye>s ( exp]i5ce tea*es me t to extra l5g? ov] ! blade is en\gh = ! extreme /oop+ =m1 b su* a =m requires its l5g? 9 ! c5t] ( ! back1 or f ! blade upw>d2 & :atev] ! back is made long] on top mu/ be %ort5$ at ! front1 z is %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ix1 :i* illu/rates ! long z well z ! %ort neck1 & also ! /oop+ =m4 ,b !re is no law to prev5t a cutt] f adopt+ a middle way1 by leav+ ! =ep>t z x is & to make ! :ole back1 say long] & r$uc+ t l5g? aga9 some:]e at ! armhole1 because a back t becomes long] beh9d requires no extra l5g? at ! side4 ,?is alt]ation is ev5 to alt]+ ! back z = a long neck1 leav+ ! front z x is = ! normal =m4 ,if a coat fit at ! neck b sw+s (f at ! wai/1 r$uce ! back ( ! side piece1 say 941 at ! wai/ & /ret* x d[nw>d to make x aga9 long en\gh--all ( :i* is requir$ to l5g!n ! back 94 ,b if ! /oop+ =m %\ld require 8 armhole fur!r =w>d1 is en\gh = ! extreme4 ,po9t #h rema9s ! c5t] = ! back sleeve1 all extra l5g? be+ all[$ on top4 ,9 ! conclusion ( ?is article1 ,i w say t ,i h giv5 diff]5t views z to ! mak+ ( alt]ations1 because :ile cutt+ we c alt] z we please2 b if a g>m5t mu/ be alt]$ aft] x is made1 x mu/ be alt]$ z be/ we c1 & if a g>m5t is wor? alt]+ at all x is wor? alt]+ "r4 ,i w "h aga9 po9t to ! fact t coats = /oop+ =ms usually h a t5d5cy to sw+ (f at ! back ( ! wai/1 & su* g>m5ts c mo/ always be br\ght to ! body by giv+ ! c5t] ( ! back & ! back seam ( ! side piece a good /ret*+ "u ! smoo?+ iron f a po9t ov] ! %\ld] blade d[nw>d4 ,all alt]ations betwe5 ! /oop+ & ! erect =ms c be bett] compreh5d$ if we consid] a well-fitt+ coat on a normal =m z foll[s3 ,consid] ! coat cut ?r\gh f ea* side to ea* back1 & to ea* front1 & consid] ! sides z on h+es1 & !n consid] :at ! result w\ld be if ! =m imitates ! s-call$ erect or /oop+ positions4 ,9 t case ! cuts across ! holl[ ( ! wai/ w\ld op5 9 front or back1 z ! case may be1 & contract at ! opposite4 ,! result ( ! backw>d & =w>d mov+ ( ! body mu/ be imitat$ by contract+ or fold+ ! patt]n1 j z a coat w full up 9 ! back :5 ! body becomes erect4 ,"u ! head ( /oop+ =ms also belongs ! s-call$ 8hun*back10 & to fit su* =ms w always be a h>d job4 ,to fit !m is n ! "r t]m 9 my op9ion4 ,!y d n want to be fitt$1 = to fit !m w\ld j %[ _! de=mity1 :i* %\ld be hidd5 by 8 coat1 at lea/ 9 ! back ( ! wai/4 ,su* =ms are (t5 v erect ones1 & mo/ ( !m ?r[ _! arms & %\ld]s up1 mak+ !m extra squ>e1 & may be at "r angles ) ! side ( ! neck4 ,if ! armhole is left1 z = ! normal =m1 z x %\ld be1 !n ! angle ( #ace deg4 mu/ h a gore cut at ! neck1 & 9 ! %\ld] seam1 ( at lea/ #a 941 & ! top ( ! back plac$ say #a 94 l[]1 & ! front ( ! neck #a 94 l[]1 :ile ! side ( ! neck may be wid5$ 94 only4 ,?is w n di/urb ! armhole & sleeve4 ,! top ( back & ! top ( front mu/ be %ort5$1 because !re is no slope ( ! neck2 ! clo? runs /raight ov]1 & = ?is reason ! side ( ! neck is to be cut out m1 :ile !re is no *ange :atev] at ! armhole4 ,n[1 :ile ! upp] "p ( ! back mu/ be made %ort]1 t "p ( ! back :i* passes ov] ! %\ld] blades & :i* is 9 ?is case extremely l>ge1 mu/ be made long]1 z f> ov] z ! enl>g$ %\ld] blade requires x4 ,b at ! armhole ! back requires ! normal l5g? only4 ,on a frock coat su* l5g? may be giv5 9 ! back1 & t l5g? aga9 r$uc$ by a l>g] gore betwe5 ! side piece & ! back4 ,b on a sack coat ?is _c be done1 z no seam runs ov] to t po9t1 & 9 consequ5ce ! extra l5g? mu/ be put 9 o!rwise1 & ,i w "h give ! be/ way to d x1 b x may n be ! %orte/ way4 ,if ! back requires say #a 94 extra l5g? ov] ! haun*1 cut ! :ole back long] 9 ! portion ( ! back armhole1 & r$uce at ! %\ld] seam t[>d ! armhole aga91 :i* w leave ! balance ( ! armhole z x 0 be=e4 ,next1 /ret* ! c5t] ( ! back ov] & along ! %\ld] blade1 & ov] t[>d ! arm1 say ab\t #d to #e 94 ea* way1 or z f> ov] z ! enl>g$ %\ld] blade requires x4 ,9 ! article on 8,c5t] ( ,back & ,front10 x is %[n :y ! c5t] ( ! back c be fitt$ on /raight l9es1 & ?is is true ( ! back ( a hun*back1 ?\gh a modification may be made = su* a =m & "s tak5 (f above or bel[ ! hun*1 or some?+ be ?r[n out ov] ! c5t] beh9d4 ,b x is n wid?1 t su* a coat wants2 x is l5g? ov] ! blade1 n ov] & cle> across to ! armhole1 b only z f> ov] z ! de=mation requires4 ,9 ?is respect let me allude to an article & diagram 9 8,,! ,,am]ican ,,tailor ,,& ,,cutt]0 ( ,augu/1 #ahij1 pages #cd & #ce3 8,t pivot1 f ! armhole across to ! c5t] ( back1 :i* mu/ be done on /raight l9es1 c n "w1 unless ! body ( a man is fir/ press$ flat f side to side1 leav+ ! c5t] ( front & ! c5t] ( back on a %>p edge1 or :at w\ld be ! same illu/ration3 on a =m cut f a "o-half in* bo>d1 ! sides be+ flat4 ,9 ?is case only1 ! =m c be fitt$ f back to front1 & on curv$ back & front c5t]s4 ,b z long z we mu/ fit m5 hav+ ! pres5t =m ! back mu/ be fitt$ f back to side & on /raight l9es at ! c5t] ( back4 ,! op5+ ( ! l9es ov] ! back1 z %[n 9 t illu/ration1 is too /raight1 x w make ! back ei!r too long at ! c5t]1 or too %ort at ! middle ( ! back1 & may fall smoo? ov] ! middle ( ! back1 b w draw at ! c5t] & at ! armhole40 ,! above %\ld receive ! att5tion ( e cutt]1 z ! t]m 8,hun*back0 is simply a comb9ation ( extremely /oop+ & extremely erect =ms4 ,to sum up ! :ole /oop+ =m3 ,! back ( su* a =m does n become long]1 b x b5ds & produces a l>g] curve ov] ! blade1 & consequ5tly ! coat back w g ) ! body & requires no extra l5g?4 ,b ! front contracts ei!r all ov] ! *e/ or at ! pit ( ! /oma*1 & ! coat mu/ be contract$ or %ort5$ !re1 b z !re is no seam !re we mu/ fall on to ! next be/ place :]e we c f9d a seam1 & "h we f9d ! %\ld] seam 9 :i* ! surplus l5g? ( ! =ep>t may be tak5 up4 ,n[1 if we use ,dia4 ,,ii or ,dia4 ,,viii z a model1 we simply lap ! %\ld]s t[>d ! blade1 ! same z = ! normal =m1 b omit ! lap t[>d ! neck4 ,?is is ! mo/ reasonable way ( alt]+ = ! /oop+ =m4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,erect ,,=ms4 7,,see ,,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia47 ,al?\gh ,i h said t ! backbone nev] gets long] or %ort] 9 ! same =m1 we f9d t :5ev] a body assumes ! position ( an ov]-erect =m ! direct di/ance f ! blade to ! seat becomes %ort]1 & ! holl[ ( ! wai/ becomes deep] & consequ5tly long]4 ,?is c be notic$ by anyone :o w take ! tr\ble to make ! exp]im5t4 ,take any =m ) a well-fitt+ coat & let him assume ! /oop+ position1 & ! alt]ation = x may be f\nd correct z describ$ 9 ! prec$+ article4 ,n[ let ! same =m ?r[ himself 9 an ov]-erect position1 & see ! result4 ,z ! front ( ! pit ( ! /oma* op5s & becomes long]1 x w pull ! front ( ! coat upw>d4 ,if we cut ! wai/ ?r\gh 9 front & sidewise1 ?is cut w fall ap>t 9 front & at ! side1 & ! back w set smoo?ly4 ,b we _c cut ! coat ?r\gh1 & s we mu/ resort to artificial means1 z foll[s3 ,:ile ! body ?us exp&s 9 front1 & ! coat _c foll[ suit unless cut ?r\gh1 ! back ( ! coat w contract1 />t+ at ! side & at ! mo/ holl[ "p ( ! wai/1 & runn+ backw>d4 ,if we take a few p9s & fa/5 up t surplus clo? at ! holl[ ( ! back1 />t+ ) no?+ at ! sides1 we c readily asc]ta9 ! am\nt ( alt]ation requir$1 & fold up our patt]n accord+ly4 ,on a frock coat said fold is ov] ! entire sidepiece1 n at ! wai/ seam1 b at ! mo/ holl[ "p1 or at & above l9e #ag4 ,if x 7 l[] x c\ld be tak5 out 9 ! wai/ seam4 ,?is fold1 if laid 9 ! patt]n1 w produce a %>p turn ( ! back "p ( ! sidepiece & mu/ be /raight5$ by giv+ m wid? along t k9k4 ,! same is to be done on a sack4 ,if ! sack is a ?ree-seam$ "o1 ! patt]n mu/ be cut ?r\gh "u ! arm upw>d1 ! fold laid across ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 & seams all[$ aga9 9 ! op5+1 :i* may be an in* at ! armhole2 b :at is n us$ = seams %\ld n be cut away1 b us$ z an outlet1 :i* w sometimes be f\nd q h&y4 ,see ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4 ,x is true1 we c alt] su* a coat by r$uc+ x some:]e at & beh9d & bel[ ! arm1 & by cutt+ ! armhole =w>d1 s t ! back ( ! wai/ c fall backw>d2 b x w take all ! life out ( a fit 9 ! back1 & make ! brea/ too small4 ,! only rem$y is an outlet "u ! arm on a frock coat1 or 9 ! c5t] ( ! back1 or 9 ! side seam on a sack4 ,by ?is op]ation x w be se5 t ! erect =m _c be fitt$ by c>v+ out ! wai/ beh9d1 b mu/ be done by contract+ ! l5g?1 & really giv+ m wid?4 ,"o-half to five-eigh?s in*es fold may be set d[n z ! av]age1 b ! exact am\nt _c be f\nd by measur+4 ,all ?is dep5ds ^u ! judgm5t ( ! cutt]4 ,"o-half to "o-f\r? in*1 "o way or ! o!r1 w n spoil a coat if o!rwise well-balanc$4 ,/ret*+ c]ta9 p>ts w accompli% a great deal ( good1 b all /ret*+ %\ld be cle>ly m>k$ by nicks1 = a j\rneyman _c always be expect$ to "k j :]e ! /ret*+ is requir$4 ,?us1 if we take a regul> frock coat patt]n1 & /ret* ! sidepiece half an in* d[nw>d on ! front & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 t is equal to contract+ ! sidepiece ! same di/ance at ! back seam2 & ! erect =m is imitat$4 ,! erect =m requires ! coat %ort at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 b ! /oop+ =m requires ! coat long] ov] ! %\ld] blade4 ,erect =ms may be fitt$ by simply tak+1 say "o half in*1 f ! curve ( ! sidepiece1 />t+ at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 z %[n on ,dia4 ,,ii ,b1 & ! contr>y may be appli$ to /oop+ =ms4 ,to fit ! back ( ! wai/ = ei!r ! erect or = ! /oop+ =m1 & tak+ ,dia4 ,,ii z a model1 we mu/ 9 "s way give m spr+ = ! erect =m1 & less = ! /oop+ =m4 ,/ret*+ ! bottom ( ! sidepiece is equal to giv+ m spr+ on ei!r side1 & x is bett]1 because ! extra wid? s obta9$ w divide bett] all ov] ! hip4 ,b x w\ld n d to adopt ! contr>y plan = ! /oop+ =m1 & %r9k ! bottom ( ! sidepiece4 ,! measure ( ! wai/ be+ ! same1 ! back "p ( ! wai/ requires a r$uction1 b :i* r$uction on ! back mu/ be all[$ 9 front4 ,! r$uction ( ! back "p = ! /oop+ =m is be/ made by r$uc+1 say "o half in*1 on ! sidepiece & on ! "u arm gore1 & by /ret*+ ! back sidepiece seam ab\t ?ree eigh?s d[nw>d on />t+ at l9e #aa1 :i* op]ation w leave ! :ole gore betwe5 ! back & ! sidepiece undi/urb$4 ,i h se5 a great _m tailors %r9k+ ! sidepiece 9 its c5t] d[nw>d1 b %r9k+ a /raight piece w always come back to its orig9al %ape4 ,to improve ! %ape ( ! sidepiece "u ! iron mu/ be done by /ret*+ its edges d[nw>d2 ! front seam = ! erect & ! back seam = ! /oop+ =m4 ,aft] a coat is made up1 & x %\ld prove %ort ov] ! blade by hang+ loose at ! back1 ! back may be made long] ov] ! blade by /ret*+ ! front seam ( ! side piece upw>d1 />t+ at ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,i say x may be s made long]1 b ! be/ way to treat su* a back1 is to give ! :ole back & ! back "p ( ! side seam a good /ret* d[nw>d1 ov] ! blade1 all ( :i* holds good on a sack coat4 ,_m coats hang bett] aft] ?ree mon?s we>1 simply because "s p>ts h /ret*$1 & c n[ con=m to ! %ape ( ! body4 ,x is always bett] to h a coat back a trifle %ort r ?an too long4 ,a %ort back c easily be /ret*$ "o half to five-eigh?s ( an in* ov] ! blade1 say #c to #d in*es sidewise f ! c5t] ( ! back1 = :i* reason all back l9+ %\ld be put 9 9 ample quantity1 bo? 9 l5g? & wid? & on ! bias4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! l9+ is /raight & n long] ?an ! outside1 !n ! l9+ mu/ be op5$ & piec$1 = x _c be /ret*$4 ,a skeleton coat ( wool5 mat]ial w fit almo/ any =m1 = x w /ret* :]ev] a /ra9 may exi/2 = ?is reason all l9+s %\ld be pl5ty l>ge ar\nd ! arm & back1 & ! :ole coat %\ld be made s(t s t x w give4 ,?is includes ev5 ! ba/+ ( ! l9+s on ! seams1 all ( :i* %\ld be made ) l>ge & loose back /it*es4 ,9 connection ) ?is article & t on ! 8,/oop+ ,=ms10 let u aga9 comp>e ! angle ( #ae deg4 ,if a cutt] w g to ! exp5se & tr\ble to cut & make = himself a skeleton coat1 cut ov] ,dia4 ,,iii1 omitt+ all seams sidewise1 & = ?is reason r$uc+ ! squ>e ( #ah to #ag1 & us+ no?+ 9 front & outside ( ! angle ( #ae deg41 9 fact cutt+ no?+ out except ! armholes & ! %\ld] seams1 & us+ "s /iff mat]ial1 su* z heavy ve/ padd+ or ,fr5* canvas1 he w be able to =m = himself a correct idea ( ! work+s ( ! angle ( #ae deg42 & x w repay him1 = he may save _m subsequ5t alt]ations4 ,& alt]ations co/ consid]able money1 besides a great deal ( annoyance betwe5 employ]1 cutt] & cu/om]4 ,9 cutt+ x1 ! back %\ld be cut pretty %ort1 say #ac on l9e #i 9 front1 or /ill %ort]1 9 ord] to assure a smoo? back4 ,:5 su* a skeleton is on ! body x w be obs]v$ t ! c5t] ( ! back is on a plumb l9e f ! %\ld]s d[n to ov] ! seat & ! bottom ( ! coat1 & t at ! side x tap]s outw>d f "u ! arm to ov] ! l>ge/ "p at ! ?igh1 & d[n to ! end ( ! coat1 b does n t\* ! holl[ ( ! wai/ any:]e1 runn+ /raight d[nw>d4 ,9 front x w tap] outw>d b fit ! :ole *e/ above ! pit ( ! /oma*2 bel[1 x w tap] =w>d & /ick outw>d 9 front1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,to r$uce ! front1 means to r$uce ! front angle ( #ae deg4 s t x falls /raight d[nw>d f ! front ( ! wai/ ! same z x does at ! back ( ! seat1 ?us giv+ /epp+ room = ! legs1 backw>d & =w>d1 z also %[n 9 ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,else:]e ! modus op]&i is fully expla9$4 ,n[1 suppose ?is angle ( #ae deg41 z a complet$ coat1 is ^u ! body1 & )\t a wr9kle 9 ! back z well z )\t any r$uction at ! holl[ ( ! back ( ! wai/1 & let u--contemplate ! sc5e6 ,if we desire to br+ ! /raight back into ! holl[ ( ! body at ! side & back1 we mu/ d :at we h done to br+ ! back ( ! pants 9 to ! body1 back & bel[ ! seat4 ,we mu/ cut ! wai/ ?r\gh1 />t+ at ! side & go+ all ar\nd ! back1 & ov] to ! o!r side2 & :5 ?us cut ?r\gh we c pu% ! upp] "p 9 to ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,& x w be f\nd t 9 s do+ ! upp] portion becomes too wide = t circle ar\nd ! body & mu/ be r$uc$ 9 wid?4 ,at ! same "t ! upp] "p becomes too %ort & a w$ge mu/ be put 91 />t+ ) no?+ at ! side & runn+ backw>d2 & ! clos] we try to fit ! wai/1 ! wid] ! w$ge mu/ be at ! back1 & ! m ! back mu/ be r$uc$ 9 wid?4 ,dia4 ,,iii demon/rates ?is fact by ! %ort] back1 & by ! r$uction ( ! back ( ! sidepiece1 & by ! w$ge betwe5 ! bottom ( ! sidepiece & ! top ( ! skirt4 ,i d n claim t x is j s1 by e fraction ( an in*1 b ,i "k t ,dia4 ,,iii w produce a coat t w fit ! normal =m1 & is ! same z ,dia4 ,,ii2 & if anyone else w\ld l to see x illu/rat$ 9 a diff]5t way x w\ld m]ely %[ t our ideas are runn+ 9 diff]5t directions4 ,b ?is w\ld n *ange ! pr9ciple4 ,n[1 ,i w ref] to ! diff]5t effects produc$ if ! we>] ?r[s himself into a /oop+ or ov]-erect position :5 ! g>m5t is cut ?r\gh at & across ! holl[ ( ! wai/4 ,by obs]v+ ! backw>d & =w>d movem5ts ( ! diff]5t =ms1 x _c fail to %[ to ! mo/ critical obs]v] t mo/ all *anges betwe5 ! /oop+ & ! erect =m c be made by r$uc+ ! wid? & giv+ m l5g? = ! /oop+1 & by r$uc+ l5g? & giv+ m wid? = ! erect =m at ! holl[ ( ! wai/2 & no o!r *ange is requir$1 unless a comb9ation ( abnormal conditions exi/s4 ,! gore betwe5 ! back & ! sidepiece at ! wai/ is an artificial gore1 & %\ld n be mu* *ang$ = any =m4 ,mo/ all *anges betwe5 ! /oop+ & erect =ms may be made at ! "u arm seam1 z foll[s3 ,= ! erect =m1 all[ say to in*es at ! side1 & be=e sew+ t seam up /ret* ! sidepiece say to in*es1 :i* w %ort5 ! back seam t mu* & ?r[ ! extra wid? beh9d :]e x belongs4 ,= a /oop+ =m1 take (f ! same wid? at ! side1 & /ret* ! back seam ( ! sidepiece at1 & j above1 ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 b nev] en\gh to %[ ! back full4 ,! reason :y ,i am oppos$ to *ang+ mu* on ! back seam ( ! sidepiece is1 t t seam is always on a curve & x is v long1 rea*+ cle> d[n to ! bottom ( ! coat1 & is apt to be ?r[n cle> out ( ge> by *ang+ x4 ,b ! "u arm cut is ne>ly /raight1 & %ort1 & c bett] be manag$4 ,if a ve/ c be ?r[n 9 by t seam surely a frock coat c also4 ,if ! back is a trifle full at ! sidepiece1 & at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 a coat w be made ! bett] by x1 & 9 no case %\ld ! back be /ret*$ !re4 ,if ! back requires %ort5+1 x mu/ be obta9$ by /ret*+ ! sidepiece on ! =ep>t d[nw>d1 or by fold+ up ! patt]n at ! back ( ! sidepiece4 ,! =m ( alt]ation dep5ds ^u ! "t x is to be made1 ei!r be=e ! coat is cut1 or aft] x is made4 ,to ?is article ( erect =ms may be add$ some?+ ab\t /raight backs1 at ! neck1 or f ! %\ld] blade upw>d4 ,a long neck may lean =w>d & may !n be class$ among /oop+ =ms1 & mu/ be /ret*$ accord+ly2 t is1 by l5g!n+ ! back only4 ,b a long neck may %oot ne>ly /raight up beh9d1 9 :i* case x mu/ be class$ among ! erect =ms4 ,betwe5 a long neck lean+ =w>d & a long neck %oot+ ne>ly /raight up beh9d1 !re mu/ be a diff]5ce 9 ! %ape ( ! top ( ! back4 ,we all "k t ! top ( ! c5t] ( ! back mu/ be high] or at lea/ z high z ! side ( ! back1 :5 ! coat is on ! body2 /ill :5 ! patt]n is spread out on a flat surface1 ! neckhole is ne>ly a circle1 & x w be a /ill m complete circle :5 ! g>m5t is on ! body4 ,x mu/ run ne>ly 9 a circle because f ! *e/1 %\ld]s & %\ld] blades ! body runs upw>d to a po9t1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i1 b ! g>m5ts are cut (f at ! neck4 ,! broad] ! top ( ! back is cut1 ! m c5t] s9ks d[n beh9d1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,v4 ,n[1 ! cutt+ d[n ( ! top & c5t] ( back mu/ be done1 because we int5d to cut ! %\ld] seam :]e fa%ion requires x %\ld be4 ,z f> z ! fit is conc]n$1 we might run ! %\ld] seam to )9 94 ( ! c5t] ( back1 9 :i* case ! c5t] ( ! back w\ld be ! highe/ po9t4 ,z backs are cut1 ! sides are ! highe/ po9t on ! flat table1 b :5 on ! body ! c5t] ( back is ! highe/ po9t1 & we may j z well say t ! top & c5t] ( back are ! highe/ po9ts1 t ?is is ! />t+ po9t1 & t f ?is po9t ! :ole neckhole is ?r[n =w>d & d[nw>d1 :]e x =ms 9 a complete circle ar\nd ! neck4 ,i am writ+ "h ab\t ! neckhole prop]1 & n ( ! l5g? ( ! back ov] ! blade2 & ! above explanations are made to %[ t ! s-call$ front %\ld] po9t is any:]e we please to locate ! %\ld] seam1 & aga91 ,i want to %[ t a /raight back1 or a /raight neck beh9d1 requires ! top & c5t] ( back high] ?an a neck :i* leans =w>d4 ,mr4 ,j4 ,b4 ,we/1 9 8 8,gr& ,edition10 page #cj1 claims t ! pr9ciple alt]ation f a normal to a /oop+ =m consi/s 9 rais+ ! c5t] ( ! top ( back 7some:]e up to l9e ,a47 ,i c]ta9ly w n dispute ! m]its ( ,mr4 ,we/1 b ,i mu/ say t1 l all mortals1 he made mi/akes1 & ! above is a 8,gr& ,mi/ake10 especially :5 we read on page #e1 t ! problem he has work$ on = fifte5 ye>s is n[ solv$1 & complete1 & w /& )\t improvem5t1 or alt]ation1 z long z !re is no *ange 9 ! con/ruction ( ! human =m4 ,ab\t ?irty ye>s h pass$1 & ! human =m has n *ang$1 & /ill ,i claim1 t ! above alt]ation mu/ be made 9 j a contr>y way2 t is1 t ! circle = ! neckhole ov] ! back mu/ be m complete t[>d ! c5t] ( back = a p]son :o drops 8 neck d[nw>d & =w>d1 & t ! erect =m or ! /raight =m on ! back ( neck requires ! circle /raight5$ ov] ! c5t] ( back1 & w "h repeat1 t on ! angle ( #ace deg4 a neckhole c be cut & fitt$ ) a complete circle z se5 9 ,dia4 ,,xi & ,,xii4 ,t "p ( ! circle :i* passes ?r\gh ! back1 say #b 94 wide1 s9ks ab\t at ! c5t] ( back1 & ?is "p mu/ be /raight] beh9d = a /raight] neck1 & may be made entirely /raight = extremely /raight backs4 ,q /raight backs are usually long necks1 & = su* ! c5t] ( back mu/ be rais$1 :]eas a %ort /raight neck w\ld require ! sides l[]$4 ,h[ mu* m or less all ?is may be1 mu/ dep5d ^u ! judgm5t ( ! cutt]1 & z ! :ole ?+ turns )9 five-eigh?s ( a numb]1 a cutt] _c g f> out ( ! way2 b he %\ld obs]ve t a coll> "o half or ev5 "o qu>t] in* l[] beh9d ?an at ! sides1 is a spoil$ coll>1 & t a coll> :i* is too high is easily cut d[n1 b :5 x is too l[ x is h>d to br+ x up1 unless !re are outlets4 ,"s cutt]s may say t ,i am m5tion+ ?+s :i* w d !m no good1 because !y _c g into all ! details4 ,?is ,i admit1 b o!rs aga9 w be glad to h a ?+ figur$ d[n1 s t !y ne$ n bo!r _! heads ab\t x4 ,b to illu/rate3 ,let u suppose we h be=e u a r\nd wood5 pole #e 94 9 diamet]1 repres5t+ ! neck ( a man4 ,if we cut x /raight ?r\gh we c fit a coll> to x ) a squ>e piece ( clo? or pap]4 ,su* a squ>e piece fits to ! circumf]5ce ( a pole1 if w\nd ar\nd on horizontal l9es4 ,next1 let u suppose t we cut "o end d[n1 ab\t #c 941 repres5t+ ! =w>d & d[nw>d slope ( ! neck1 & we f9d t a /raight piece w n fit t slope1 b mu/ be holl[$ out4 ,n[1 if we build %\ld]s to x1 & a *e/ & %\ld] blades1 9 fact take ! =m ( a p]son = our model1 we f9d t ! neckhole ( a g>m5t goes ar\nd ! top ( a body slop+ upw>d f all sides1 ?\gh irregul>ly1 b t a complete circle f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 w fit ! neck aft] #de deg4 h be5 tak5 out f its c5t]1 all ( :i* w =m an irregul> circle or curve1 :ile 9 any %ape on ! flat table2 b w =m an almo/ complete circle :5 sew$ toge!r & plac$ on ! body4 ,! neck itself is almo/ a complete circle1 & ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 mu/ be consid]$ z ! c5t] ( ! neck1 :i* is r\nd1 b to :i* clo? mu/ be br\ght by irregul> approa*es4 ,n[ if we f9d a /raight neck beh9d1 ) h>dly any incl9e f ! back =w>d1 ! g>m5t mu/ run /raight up1 too1 & ! circle = ! neckhole mu/ be /raight5$ z f> z ! back goes2 b if ! neck slopes =w>d1 ! g>m5t mu/ turn =w>d also1 & ! edge ( ! circle ov] ! back mu/ =m a m complete "p ( a circle4 ,b ,i mu/ make ano!r illu/ration3 ,take a piece ( /iff pap]1 & cut out ( x a half circle ( say #d 94 :ole diamet]1 repres5t+ ! neck ( a #cf brea/ measure1 or !reab\ts4 ,take t circle & fit x to ! neck ( a man on horizontal l9es1 & ! circle w fit ! neck no matt] :]e y apply x4 ,next try to fit x to ! neck f ! side1 b on ! slope ( ! %\ld]s1 & ! circle w be too r\nd = ! neck4 ,aga91 try to fit x f ! slope ( ! back1 & ! diff]5ce betwe5 neck & circle w be /ill great]4 ,next1 take a /ove-pipe ( #d 94 diamet] & try to fit x on t1 & on p]p5dicul> l9es1 & y w f9d t ! circle _c be us$ at all1 b t a squ>e piece mu/ be us$ = t4 ,if ! neck 7 z wide z ! %\ld]s1 & ! *e/ & ! blades1 t is1 if ! body w\ld run /raight up f ^! po9ts1 !n ! top edge c\ld be fitt$ ) no?+ else b a squ>e piece ( clo?4 ,aft] all1 ! above pros & cons let me say t if ,dia4 ,,ii is us$ = ! /oop+ =m1 place height ( back to high]1 & r$uce ! back ( ! sidepiece to m1 at ! wai/1 & t is ab\t ! be/ alt]ation :i* w result f ! description ( ! /oop+ =m4 ,contr>y3 ,plac+ height ( back at #ad1 & giv+ to m spr+ at ! wai/ w give a good proportion = ! erect =m4 ,z to ! diff]5ce ( #a numb]s m or less back l5g? ov] ! blade1 betwe5 ! /oop+ & erect =m1 ea* cutt] mu/ judge = himself1 = x _c be measur$ on ! human =m4 ,%ort p]sons ) %ort necks & v flat %\ld] blades1 may be fitt$ ) a height ( back ( #ad above l9e #i1 & top ( back at #c & side ( neck at #d4 7,see ,odd ,=ms ,i47 ,erect =ms :o ?r[ _! arms backw>d c be fitt$ by us+ a patt]n "o or two sizes too small1 & by all[+ ! diff]5ce ( to #a in*1 z ! case may be1 on ! front ( ! brea/4 ,if a cutt] w put a coat1 say two sizes too small on su* a =m1 he w f9d t ! back1 ! %\ld]s & ! armhole fit1 b t ! front ( brea/ is too small1 & ! extra size mu/ be all[$ !re4 ,?is rule w "w bo? ways1 & ! contr>y may be appli$ = /oop+ =ms4 ,illu/ration ,,odd ,,=ms4 ,dur+ ! summ] ( #ahia1 ,i review$ su* patt]ns :i* ,i _h pres]v$ = sev]al ye>s back1 & ,i knew t !y 7 good4 ,i laid !m out l ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,,iv1 ,,viii1 ,v,i,i,ia & ,x1 & !y came z ne> toge!r z c\ld be expect$1 at lea/ !y came ne> en\gh s t a slight diff]5ce w\ld make no diff]5ce 9 ! fit1 & ,i ?9k ,i c give "s valuable in=mation if ,i give descriptions ( "s odd %ap$ g>m5ts1 j z ,i f\nd !m4 ,i4--,,cutaway ,,frock ,,coat4 ,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4 ,brea/1 #dj2 ,wai/1 #dj2 ,hip1 #da2 ,seat1 #dj2 ,l5g? ( legs1 #cj4 ,! seat measure & ! l5g? ( legs are not$ = ! purpose ( giv+ a bett] impression ( ! =m4 ,=m3 ,erect--squ>e %\ld]s--%ort neck--height ( back above l9e #i is #ad--top ( back1 #c--side ( neck1 #d--;bottom ( armhole1 above #aa4 ,no gore "u ! arm1 b a spr+ ( in* at l9e #ah1 on :i* l9e is also ! wai/ l5g? ( ! back4 ,! wai/ seam drops #a 9 front2 is ev5 9 front & side1 b laps ov] ! gore 9 ! =ep>t1 :i* is in*1 runn+ up to l9e #ae4 ,front3 ,quak] ,cutaway1 ) no lapel--/&+ coll>--front ( neck at #c--not* 9 c5t] ( #ae deg4--= ! button hole side all[ 9 front ( base1 & = ! button side m4 ,9 front ( l9e #i1 all[ = bo? sides & meet base aga9 9 front ( #aa4 ,at #ae g =w>d #c--;at #bj1 #b4 ,meet plumb base at #bf & g back #c at l9e #cb4 ,drop bottom ( skirt at ! base4 ,%\ld] laps at ! neck & t[>d ! blade4 ,gore betwe5 ! back & sidepiece3 at ! armhole--meet at #aj-- at #aa-- at #ad1 on back--#a at #ae--a at #ah1--a at #bj-- at #be-- at #cj4 ,c5t] ( back is holl[$ out at #ag1 & at l9e #cj ! f9i%$ hook is #a out4 ,,ii4--,,frock ,,coat4 ,brea/1 #cf2 wai/1 #ca2 seat1 #cf4 ,=m3 ,erect--squ>e %\ld]s--full brea/--v holl[ back1 :i* causes ! %\ld] blade to appe> pretty prom95t--wai/ diamet] v small f side to side4 ,?is is a =m :i* mo/ly has its coat back too long or too wide1 & requires q a close brea/ measure1 or a small squ>e & a full brea/4 ,an app>5tly long coat back beh9d ! arm is caus$ :5 ! seat has n en\gh spr+4 ,model3 ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,squ>e ( #ag4 ,! height ( back above l9e #i ov] ! front is #ae numb]s--top ( back #c--side ( neck #d4 ,! %\ld] seam is ev5 at bo? neck & armhole1 b t[>d ! blade !re is a lap ( in*1 & :i* seam is = ! squ>e %\ld]4 ,"u-arm gore3 at l9e #ae-- at #ag--a at l9e #ah1 :i* is ! l5g? = ! wai/ on ! back-- at #bj4 ,= ! contract$ wai/ l5g? beh9d1 ! top ( skirt1 & ! bottom ( ! back sidepiece seam is ev51 b lap at ! und]>m gore--#a at ! plumb l9e base-- 9 front4 ,! bottom ( ! sidepiece is high] beh9d1 b :5 ! coat is on1 ! run ( ! wai/ seam is ev51 on ! erect =m4 ,at ! wai/ ! =ep>t has a gore ( #a />t+ at l9e #ae4 ,! front ( brea/ is #a 9 front ( #i--meets ! front angle 9 front ( l9e #ae--;& /rikes ! base at #cb = a cutaway4 ,spr+ c5t] ( back out f l9e #ae3 at #bj--a at #be--a at #cj1 & !n all[ #a 94 = ! hook4 ,gore betwe5 sidepiece & back3 at ! armhole--meets at #aj on back-- at #aa ov] ! front--#a at #ae on back--#a at #ae ov] ! front--#a at #ag-- at #bj-- at #be-- at #cj4 ,,iii4--,,frock ,,coat4 ,brea/1 #cd1 close measure2 wai/1 #cj2 seat1 #cd2 l5g? ( legs1 #bi4 ,=m3 ,erect--long neck--flat %\ld] blades--all normal cut coats fall away f 8 neck--are too long & too wide 9 ! back & too small 9 ! brea/4 ,model3 ,dia4 ,,ii--! squ>e 0 made #ag--top ( back #b--side ( neck #c--%\ld]s lap at ! neck & t[>d ! blade--height ( back above l9e #i1 #ad numb]s4 ,gore betwe5 back & sidepiece3 at armhole--meets at l9e #aa-- at l9e #i & #ad-- at #ae--a at #ag-- at #bj--meet aga9 at #be to #cj-- at #ce4 ,spr+ back f #ae--;all[ at #be--a at #cj--;& all[ = ! hook4 ,! front is /raight--s+le-brea/$--! lapel is #c 9 front ( ! base on top--#c 9 front ( #aa--meets ! front angle at #ae--!nce p>allel ) ! plumb base4 ,! wai/ seam is ev5 at ! und]>m cut--skirt & front laps #a at l9e #bj1 runn+ s =w>d4 ,bottom ( skirt s9ks 9 front4 ,! ve/ _h lap at ! %\ld] seam t[>d ! neck & top ( back 0 plac$ at #c1 & _h a spr+ ( #a at ! c5t] ( back at l9e #bj4 ,! ve/ 0 cut size #cc1 & in* all[$ 9 front ( ! brea/1 :i* acc\nts = ! small squ>e & ! full brea/4 ,,iv4 ,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4 ,brea/1 #ce2 wai/1 #cc2 seat1 #ce4 ,=m3 ,a comb9ation ( /oop+ & erect--neck b5ds =w>d--arms ?r[n backw>d--%\ld]s ?r[n up & squ>e--v holl[ at ! back ( ! wai/ b erect !re--%\ld] blades prom95t--seat %[s v little at ! back--front ( wai/ & front ( ?igh ?r[n =w>d--top ( back #c--side ( neck #c--%\ld] laps at ! neck-- t[>d ! blade4 ,side ( %\ld] #i at #fj deg4 ,height ( back above l9e #i is #ae4 ,und]>m gore1 on l9e #i-- at l9e #ae--a at #ag-- at #bj4 ,gore betwe5 ! back & sidepiece3 at ! armhole--meet at #aa on ! back-- at #aa-- at #ae--a at #ae ov] ! front--#a at #ag--a at #bj-- at #be-- at #cj-- at #ce4 ,! =ep>t has a gore ( at ! wai/ seam1 & ! same gore betwe5 ! skirt & =ep>t 9 front4 ,c5t] ( back3 ,f #ae upw>d all[ outside ( ! base1 & come ev5 aga9 on top--f #ae d[nw>d g inw>d ( ! base at #ag--meet aga9 at #bb--;g out at #cj-- at #ce = ! c5t] & all[ = ! hook1 etc4 ,front3 ,9 front ( #i all[ #a--meet front edge & front angle at #ad--;g out #c at #bj--a at #cj--meet at #ce4 ,s9k front ( skirt 1 & no lap betwe5 skirt & =ep>t at ! wai/ seam except to /raight5 ! =ep>t ov] ! gore4 ,v4--,,l>ge-,,wai/$ ,,sack ,,coat4 ,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,viiia4 ,brea/1 #dc2 wai/1 #df2 hip1 #df2 seat1 #dd2 l5g? ( pants1 #cb in*es4 ,=m3 ,l>ge all ar\nd--prom95t %\ld] blades--squ>e %\ld]s--arms ?r[n back--neck r %ort--head & front ( wai/ b5t =w>d--sides ( wai/ full--all normal cut coats are too high 9 ! neck = ?is =m4 ,squ>e ( #ah1 :i* is small b good4 ,top ( back at #c--side ( neck #c4 ,%\ld] seam laps at ! neck & t[>d ! blade--at #fj deg41 #i4 ,height ( back above l9e #i ov] ! =ep>t1 #ab4 ,und]>m cut1 #a1 & /ret*$ up 4 ,side seam3 ev5 at ! armhole1 & d[n to #aa-- at #ae--a at #ag--a at #bj-- at #be-- at #cj4 ,c5t] ( back3 ,f l9e #ag spr+ out at l9e #be4 ,front3 ,9 front ( po9t #i give #a--meet ! front edge at ! front angle at #bj--;g out #e at #be & #d at #cj--:i* w give a pretty /raight front1 b runs a trifle backw>d at ! bottom4 ,on top ( lapel all[ #a 9 front ( ! front angle & cut a gore ( "u ! lapel & 9 ! c5t] ( ! angle ( #ae deg4 ,at ! bottom s9k ! front at ! base4 ,notice t ! proportions are all small ov] ! brea/ l9e1 b full 9 front1 & also full at ! side ( wai/1 & w make a good coat = t size4 ,,vi4--,,model3 ,,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4 ,! brea/ size is ! same z ! prec$+ description1 b ! wai/ & hip are comp>atively small4 ,brea/1 #dc2 wai/1 #da2 hip1 #dc4 ,=m v erect & holl[ 9 ! back ( wai/--%\ld]s squ>e--arms ?r[n back1 requir+ a small squ>e = ! back1 & a full brea/4 ,squ>e ( #ah--"u arm gore at #aa & /ret*$ up --height ( back above l9e #i is #ab--top ( back is at #c & side ( neck #c--%\ld] seam laps at ! neck--side ( %\ld]s1 #i--;gore betwe5 side & back3 ev5 at armhole--ev5 at #aa--a at #ae--a at #ag--b at #bj--a at #be & #bh4 ,c5t] ( back spr+3 at l9e #be1 />t+ at #ag--;cutaway front4 ,all[ #a 9 front ( #i--meet front edge & front angle at #ae--c 9 front ( #bj--b at #be--meet at #bh4 ,,vii4 ,a ,,ve/ ,,= ,a ,,l>ge ,,wai/4 ,brea/1 #de2 wai/1 #dh2 hip1 #dh2 seat1 #dj4 ,dia4 ,,iv z ! model4 ,brea/ measure tak5 ov] ! %irt4 ,! "u arm cut is in* at ! holl[ ( wai/1 b bo? back & front meet bel[ & above4 ,?is in* is simply to give =m to ! seams4 ,top ( back is #d--side ( neck #d = top ( coll> b&--bottom ( neck b& #e4 ,side ( %\ld]s at #fj deg41 #i--%\ld] seam ev51 b in* spr+ at ! neck may be good4 ,c5t] ( back is on ! l9e & spr+ ( at ! bottom--height ( back1 #ad4 ,f ! po9t ( ! angle ( #ace deg4 g d[n #g numb]s = ! front edge ( ! ve/ & g =w>d a at l9e #i--a1 at l9e #ae--a at #ag4 ,cut a small gore 9 ! =ep>t1 bel[ ! pocket1 9 ord] to make ! front to con=m to ! oval =m ( ! body4 ,! description ( ?is ve/ & ,dia4 ,,xx w fit ! same p]son4 ,?is ve/1 made up & plac$ on a p]son ( #cf brea/ & #cb wai/ measure1 w fit at ! %\ld]s1 & if x is left to hang alone1 w simply be too l>ge all ar\nd ! brea/ & ar\nd ! wai/1 b hangs good4 ,!re is "o peculi> feature 9 ?is or all l>ge ve/s cut accord+ to ?is "w1 :i* %\ld be consid]$4 ,y c draw all surplus clo? toge!r beh9d1 or 9 front1 or at ! side1 or y may p9 x up ev5 all ar\nd1 & ! fit ( ! %\ld]s w rema94 ,= ?is reason1 ve/s "o size too l>ge w fit ! same1 & are bett] ?an if "o size too small4 ,cut all ve/s wai/ & #b in*es at ! wai/ l9e1 & pay little att5tion to ! hip l9e1 z long z ! sides h an op5+ ov] ! hips4 ,if no op5+ is left !re ! hip l9e mu/ also receive hip & #b in*es4 ,all[ all extra wai/ proportion1 by all[+ "o half ( x 9 front & "o half at ! side ( ! back4 ,any o!r surplus wid?1 :i* may be desir$ may be all[$ at ! c5t] ( ! back1 :]e x may be buckl$ up smoo?4 ,,viii4--,frock ,coat = a ,v ,/oop+ ,=m1 & ) ,v ,r\nd ,%\ld] ,blades4 ,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4 ,v holl[ brea/--front ( wai/ & back ( wai/ v erect--squ>e ( #ah--;front ( armhole 9 front ( #de deg41 :]e armhole & sleeve meet at #aj--;back sleeve seam laps at l9e #h--top ( back at #c--side ( neck at #c--;height ( back above l9e #i1 #ae--wid? ( back at #i1 #g4 ,c5tre ( back is holl[$ out at ! holl[ ( ! wai/1 meets base at #bb & at l9e #ce ! edge = ! f9i%$ hook is #a outside4 ,gore betwe5 ! side & back3 at ! armhole-- at #ae--a at #ae--a at #ag--a at #bj--a at #be--a at #cj4 ,und]>m cut3 at #ae-- at #ag-- at #ai4 ,! %\ld] seam laps at ! neck & at ! blade4 ,front edge3 #a 9 front ( #c--a 9 front ( #i--meet at #ad--c at #bj--b at #cj--a at #ce4 ,no gore 9 brea/1 b gore 9 ! front wai/ seam4 ,drop front skirt at ! base4 ,,ix4--,,fat ,,m5',s ,,ov]coat4 ,brea/1 #eb2 wai/1 #fj4 ,=m1 v erect2 front ( wai/ b& =w>d & abdom5 v l>ge & r\nd4 ,! %\ld]s are normal1 & ! %\ld] seam h ! same spr+ z ,dia4 ,x4 ,! model is ,dia4 ,x4 ,! squ>e is #ai numb]s1 & #a numb]s are cut out z a gore "u ! arm1 & ! sidepiece /ret*$ upw>d 4 ,! l>ge squ>e & ! l>ge gore "u ! arm1 ?r[ extra wai/ proportion into ! c5t] ( ! =ep>t4 ,neck f #ace deg4--top ( back #c--side ( back #c--;at #fj deg4 #c--;base #c--;armhole f #ace deg43 front sleeve nick at #aj--;at #fj deg4 #h--;at #de deg4 or top squ>e #i--wid? ( back at #h is #f--;bottom ( armhole is above l9e #aa1 & ! front sleeve base is =w>d two seams4 ,! front ( armhole is on #de deg4 ,c5t] ( back3 height ( back above l9e #i is #ab numb]s--f l9e #ae spr+ out #a at #be4 ,c5t] ( front f ! plumb l9e base3 top -- gore1 to edge--at #aa1 #d--;at #bj1 #f--;at #cj1 #f--;drop front ( bottom #a1 & set ! buttons back f ! edge ab\t #b in*es4 ,n[1 :ile ,i am describ+ 8,odd ,=ms10 :i* 9 reality are n odd at all1 only a trifle diff]5t f ! s-call$ normal =m1 x may be well1 to po9t out ano!r fact3 ,= coats & ve/s all l>ge-wai/$ =ms require ei!r a proportionately small] scale ) extra all[ance 9 front ( ! brea/1 or if ! measure & ! scale are us$ ! same z on a small-wai/$ =m1 ! squ>e mu/ be made small]1 & ! front mu/ be t mu* l>g]4 ,x is ! same on ! full-brea/$ & on ! erect =ms1 & ! description ( ,=ms ,v & ,,vi1 z well z ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia1 ) _! diff]5t squ>es ought to be suffici5t to give a g5]al idea ( :at is to be tak5 (f beh9d 9 ! squ>e1 & :at is to be all[$ 9 front4 ,l>ge-wai/$ p]sons h mo/ly erect =ms ev5 if !y %\ld h prom95t %\ld] blades1 or ?r[ _! necks d[n 9 front4 ,at ! holl[ ( wai/ !y may be consid]$ erect & mo/ly ?r[ _! arms backw>d1 & all su* =ms require a small] squ>e & a l>g] brea/4 ,! be/ way to measure is ?is3 ,take all measures ev5 & close1 & r$uce ! squ>e1 & enl>ge ! brea/ accord+ to ! above description1 & accord+ to y\r judgm5t1 & rememb]1 t in* m1 or in* less 9 ! brea/1 or 9 ! squ>e1 may be consid]$ ! outside limit1 & t in* goes a good ways4 ,9 reg>d to ! am\nt1 y bett] le>n to dep5d ^u y\r judgm5t1 = if t %\ld be ev] s poor1 x w be bett] ?an a s-call$ pro( or balance measure1 f ! c5t] ( back =w>d4 ,t measure1 ev5 if tak5 ) ! utmo/ c>e1 w mo/ly dep5d ^u ! coat :i* ! p]son we>s1 & n ^u ! body1 :i* is to be fitt$4 ,illu/ration ,,l[ ,,%\ld]s4 ,l[ %\ld]s & long necks are ! same4 ,dia4 ,,ix %[s ! correct alt]ation = su* =ms z well z = ! /oop+ =m4 ,! body betwe5 ! arm & neck becomes long] ?an usual1 & consequ5tly ! coat mu/ be l5g!n$ on ea* back & front alike4 ,attempt+ to cut ! %\ld]s l[] at ! arm w nev] lift ! coat up to ! neck4 ,if t alt]ation is correctly made no o!r portion is to be alt]$4 ,all all[ance = a long] neck %\ld be giv5 sp>+ly1 z 94 on ea* back & ea* front goes a great ways2 only extremes may require m1 & f to 94 may be call$ correct = ! av]age long neck4 ,! front ( ! neck hole %\ld n be rais$ on a long neck1 = ! v l5g? ( neck requires extra dep? !re4 ,addition = a long] neck %\ld be />t$ at ! middle ( ! %\ld] seam1 z indicat$ by dott$ l9es 9 ,dia4 ,,ix4 ,rais+ ! side ( ! back up high] requires ! c5t] ( ! back high] also1 all ( :i* may be run out to no?+ at ! sleeve base4 ,add+ say 94 to ! top ( ! neck w make ! %\ld] look broad]1 t is1 ! %\ld] on top ( ! slope w conta9 m space f arm to neck1 ?\gh ! diamet] ( ! %\ld]s f side to side may n be any l>g]4 ,! armhole mu/ be consid]$ ! same = all long or %ort necks1 & ! *anges mu/ be made upw>d1 & above ! armhole1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ix1 & if t is correct1 ! s-call$ 8front %\ld] po9t0 exi/s 9 ! imag9ation ( ea* individual cutt] only4 ,if ! %\ld]s & ! neck ( all m5 7 =m$ ! same1 !re w\ld be v little tr\ble to fit coats4 ,b ! long]1 or %ort]1 or =w>d or backw>d lean+ neck play sma% ) ! fitt+ po9ts4 ,all k9ds ( imag9>y pro( measures h be5 inv5t$1 b !y all w prove t !y are n pro(1 unless ! measure is a /raight "o1 ei!r horizontal1 or p]p5dicul>1 or p>allel4 ,! pro( measure1 z %[n 9 ,fig4 ,i1 & :i* consi/s ( ! application ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 is a new measure1 ( my own inv5tion1 & x w d away ) all ! s-call$ long or %ort balance measures :i* h be5 us$ = ! la/ c5tury4 ,:5 ,i say give s & s mu* m = a long neck1 ,i mean s mu* m ?an :at is %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,ii1 all ( :i* may be divid$ betwe5 ! =ep>t & ! back1 b s t ! top ( back is nev] less ?an #b 94 wide4 ,i w repeat "h t a long neck n only requires ! %\ld] /raps long]1 b ! top & ! side ( ! back mu/ be cut clos] t[>d ! c5t]1 gradually runn+ out at ! front4 ,if ! %\ld] seam has #a 94 spr+1 t is1 to m ?an ,dia4 ,,ii1 ! top ( back may be plac$ at #b & ! side ( neck at #c1 & ?is w make a good proportion = ! av]age long neck4 ,s f> ,i h f\nd 9 my practice1 t v few cases require m4 ,! wor/ case ,i ev] f\nd 0 fitt$ ) #a spr+ all[$ on ! =ep>t1 ) top ( back at #b & side ( neck at #b1 & ,i d n ?9k t !re is any %\ld] :i* requires m4 ,9 all cases ! coll> mu/ be sew$ on easy1 on ea* 8side ( ! neck0 n beh9d4 ,b "h ,i w give ano!r idea ( fitt+ a long & /raight neck3 ,at ! c5t] ( ! back & f ! back sleeve base upw>d1 g outside ( ! base & all[ say 94 8extra10 & at ! same "t all[ 94 on top ( back & at ! side ( neck4 ,! in* extra all[ance on ! back may aga9 be r$uc$ f ! front ( neck d[nw>d1 b ?is is ( little consequ5ce1 = if n cut (f1 ! lapel & ! brea/ w simply be t mu* l>g]1 :i* is mo/ly a 8good fault0 = su* a coat1 & may (t5 be q necess>y1 z all su* =ms are mo/ly full brea/$4 ,if = any cause1 ! top ( back & side ( neck are plac$ clos] t[>d ! c5t]1 d n drop ! front ( ! neck hole1 because ! extra spr+ at ! %\ld] seam w produce all extra l5g? requir$4 ,! l[ & ! high %\ld]s may be consid]$ v indef9ite t]ms1 & a cutt] mu/ le>n to use 8 judgm5t z to :at ea* p>ticul> cu/om] requires1 b = ! reason t ,dia4 ,,ii w fit at lea/ #di out ( #ej p]sons1 all *anges mu/ be made ) great caution1 because ! actual %\ld] is n to be fitt$ at all1 & if anybody attempts to d ?is1 he mu/ cut l[ %\ld]s = mo/ all1 & ! majority he w h to alt]1 m or less4 ,ab\t a ye> ago1 :ile at *ur* on a ,sunday1 ,i notic$ a man :o sat 9 front ( me2 he we>s diff]5t coats accord+ to ! wea!r4 ,two ( su* coats fit him z good z any c be made1 b "o coat makes him l[ %\ld]$ :ile ! o!r gives him ! appe>ance ( a squ>e %\ld]4 ,! squ>e %\ld] coat don't fit z close ar\nd ! arm z ! "o ) ! l[ %\ld]1 b ! squ>e %\ld] hangs good1 sleeve includ$1 & no "o w ask any?+ bett]4 ,any cutt] c satisfy himself on t po9t by try+ on diff]5t good fitt+ coats1 on ! same p]son1 & by do+ s he w soon f9d t a solid measure ar\nd ! arm & %\ld]1 or a s-call$ 8,balance ,measure0 is "o ( ! greate/ delusions ! ,n9ete5? c5tury has br\ght =?1 9 s f> z fitt+ g>m5ts is conc]n$4 ,b ,i mu/ po9t to ano!r reason :y a coat c be fitt$ to ! same p]son ) ei!r a squ>e or a slop+ %\ld]4 ,a coat cut too high up at ! back & at ! side ( ! neck w h ! appe>ance ( a l[] %\ld]1 because ! coat />ts high] up4 ,at ! pres5t "t ! /yle = ! %\ld]s is t[>d a squ>e %\ld]1 & ,i ?9k t w be ! /yle = "s "t to come4 ,look+ back to cont95tal /yles & pictures1 we f9d all coats high up at ! back & at ! side ( ! neck1 & consequ5tly all are repres5t$ z l[ %\ld]s4 ,9 fitt+ clo?+ accord+ to ! pres5t /yle1 a cutt] mu/ see1 ?\gh he is compell$ to cut a coat = a long neck high] ?an usual1 t x gets n too high1 b z l[ z possible = t purpose1 & cutt]s :o are n above try+ on w (t5 f9d x to advantage to *ange ! height ( ! coll> a trifle1 ?\ght ! fit may be ! same = all4 ,?is is ano!r po9t :i* _c be le>n$ by rules1 or f books1 or 9 cutt+ s*ools1 b mu/ be acquir$ by practice1 aft] a cutt]'s m9d has be5 direct$ to x1 & 8 m9d mu/ be cle> always1 & nev] be b5umb$ by :isky1 or by tobacco1 nor by fa/ wom54 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,extra ,,squ>e ,,%\ld]s4 ,real squ>e %\ld]s are seldom to be f\nd unless ! =m is class$ among ! humpbacks1 :5 ! %\ld]s may ev5 be high] at ! arm ?an at ! neck4 ,by ! t]m 8,squ>e ,%\ld]s0 is usually und]/ood to be squ>] %\ld]s ?an are ord9>ily f\nd4 ,b "r "h let me say1 t z long z ! %\ld]s are cut on ! angle ( #ace deg4 !re is n mu* dang] ( gett+ !m too l[ or too squ>e = almo/ anyone1 = ! reason t coats are n to be cut sk9-tight at ! armhole4 ,! armhole mu/ be l>g] ?an ! body all ar\nd1 & no coat feels agreeable or looks well if ! armhole is tight-fitt+ on ! top ( ! arm or at ! %\ld] seam4 ,! %\ld]s %\ld fit at ! neck1 b n tight4 ,!y %\ld hang & balance !mselves betwe5 ! arm & ! neck1 :]e nei!r ! movem5t ( ! neck nor t ( ! arms int]f]es ) ! coat4 ,at ! arm1 ! %\ld]s ( a well-fitt+ coat %\ld be loose1 & z long z ! sleeve fits s t x w n drag ! armhole out ( place su* loos5ess w rema9 !re1 =m+ a squ>e %\ld]4 ,a %\ld] t appe>s flat on ! top1 & breaks beh9d or 9 front1 w always set bett] :5 ! sleeves are out1 because ! sleeve-head is too %ort1 pull+ ! %\ld] d[nw>d1 & x mu/ make a break ei!r 9 front or back ( ! arm2 & x is = ?is reason t :5ev] !y try on coats ! j\rneyman is requir$ to ba/e 9 "o or bo? sleeves4 ,= ?is reason1 ,i claim ! sleeve sy/em1 z laid d[n 9 ?is "w1 is f> sup]ior to any o!r4 ,to fit ! %\ld]s & ! sleeves toge!r is really a "q ( h[ n to fit ! body ( a p]son1 & /ill1 produce a g>m5t :i* w take ! eye ( ! public4 ,a tight-fitt+ %\ld] at ! arm1 & a tight-fitt+ wai/ 9 ! back1 are n ! pres5t conception ( fit1 or ( /yle1 = m5's g>m5ts1 & 9 all probability nev] w be4 ,! %\ld]s are bas$ ^u a slope ( #bb deg41 n because !y slope j t mu*1 = !y may be #bb or #bc deg41 or any?+ ne> t1 b t is a good av]age2 & #bb deg4 is ! f\r? "p ( a squ>e1 & is an ev5 division ( a squ>e1 & a kn[n quantity4 ,i w "h say3 ,extra squ>e %\ld]s are seldom f\nd :i* _c be fitt$ by ,dia4 ,,ii1 by simply cutt+ ! spr+ betwe5 ! %\ld] seam less at ! neck & plac+ ! top ( ! back & ! side ( ! neck say to ( a numb] l[]1 :ile ! armhole rema9s z x is1 includ+ ! sleeve4 ,!re is no "q b t ! l[]1 or ! high] %\ld]s1 c be fitt$ by mak+ ! *ange at ! armhole1 b 9 ei!r case ! :ole armhole & ! :ole sleeve1 z well z ! wai/1 requires a re-adju/m5t4 ,b ,i d n want to e>n glory by giv+ a description ( x4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,sci5tific ,,calculations ,,9 ,,! ,,squ>e ,,& ,,circle4 7,,see ,,dias4 ,,xi ,,& ,,xii47 ,^! are n giv5 = practical cutt+1 b are giv5 z an example ( sci5tific calculation 9 g>m5t cutt+4 ,al?\gh !y are q pla9 !y may be call$ sci5tific conundrums1 because ! pres5t g5]ation ( cutt]s kn[s no?+ ab\t !m4 ,,sci5tific ,,conundrum ,,9 ,,! ,,squ>e4 ,m>k a squ>e ( any unkn[n surface2 divide "o side into #bj equal p>ts1 ea* "p ( :i* is a unit1 or "o numb] ( ! scale2 use said #bj p>ts z a scale1 repres5t+ ! half brea/ circumf]5ce1 & #b in*es2 ) ?is scale make a diagram or draft ( a ve/1 or coat1 accord+ to ?is "w--all ( :i* is done be=e ! size ( ! squ>e is kn[n4 ,:5 done1 measure ! squ>e1 or #bj p>ts ( ! scale1 by in*es4 ,n[1 suppose ! squ>e turns out to be #bj in*es2 ! size ( ! g>m5t is #ce brea/1 or #ag in*es & #b in*es4 ,if ! squ>e turns out to be #bb in*es1 ! g>m5t w be size #dj1 & s on1 always #b sizes less ?an ! squ>e4 ,if1 h[ev]1 ! size ( ! squ>e is too small to make a full size1 multiply its units by any numb] :]eby y c f9d a c]ta9 desir$ size4 ,= in/ance3 ,if ! squ>e conta9s #e in*es1 ea* in* is a unit1 or "o "p ( ! scale4 ,multiply ! #e in*es by #d & y h #bj in*es4 ,n[1 take #d units ( ! orig9al1 :i* repres5ts "h #a in*1 & y\r new scale w repres5t #bj in*es divid$ into #bj p>ts1 & w also cut size #ce4 ,if y multiply ! #e-;in* squ>e by #c1 y w produce #ah in*es1 & if y take #c units z #a unit1 ea* unit w repres5t ( #ah in*es1 & ! size ( ! g>m5t w be #cj4 ,if y multiply ! #e in*es ) #d1 y w obta9 #bb in*es1 & by tak+ #d units z #a unit = ! scale1 ea* unit w repres5t "p ( #bb in*es1 & ! size w be #ci4 ,,sci5tific ,,conundrum ,,9 ,,! ,,circle4 ,divide ! half-diamet] ( a circle into #bj equal p>ts2 !n measure ! half-diamet] ( ! circle by in*es1 & if said result does n give a requir$ size multiply ! same z 9 a squ>e2 use ! same units1 & ! same result w be obta9$4 ,all ?is mu/ be done z 9 a squ>e ( #bj1 b aft]w>ds ! squ>e ( #ag may be produc$ z %[n 9 ! diagram4 ,fractional multiplication w result 9 ! same ?+1 b may result 9 ! fractional sizes1 z #cd1 #ce & #cf1 & s on4 ,! six po9ts ( ! compass w give all ! base l9es correctly on ! squ>e ( #bj z well z on ! squ>e ( #ag4 ,x requires no scale1 = "o ma9 po9t w give ! o!r complete4 ,! full diamet] ( ! circle is #dj p>ts1 & ! triangle1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,xii1 conta9s #ce1 half ( :i* is #bj & #ag1 = :i* reason ! squ>e ( #bj & ! squ>e ( #ag is adopt$ z a base4 ,) ! aid ( ! above calculations a p]son c g to any cutt]1 obta9 f him any graduat$ scale1 & ) x cut a g>m5t be=e he kn[s ! size !re(4 ,or he c select = himself a scale f any set = a c]ta9 size by simply f9d+ a scale ^: #bj units w correspond ) ! size4 ,%\ld ! scales conta9 too l>ge or too small units1 !y may be multipli$ or divid$1 & a new unit f\nd by d\bl+ or halv+ ! units1 or by divid+ or multiply+ !m ) any numb]1 to ga9 ! desir$ result4 ,! conundrum is ?is3 ,to use an unkn[n squ>e or an unkn[n circle to cut a g>m5t1 & produce ! small] sizes l>ge en\gh & ! l>g] ones small en\gh = all practical purposes4 ,illu/ration ,illu/ration ,,*ips ,,& ,,:et/ones4 ,a sweep f ! po9t ( ! angles1 z at #hj1 w make a horizontal l9e :5 ! pants are on & inflat$ ) ! body4 ,no squ>+ f any "o l9e w make x p]fectly horizontal all ar\nd4 ,! sweeps f ! po9ts ( ! angles w always be toge!r :5 ! pants are correctly sew$ up & flat ^u ! table4 ,said sweeps w n fit toge!r 9 all positions1 if made f any o!r po9ts1 :i* proves _! common c5t]2 & !y w always be f\nd reliable = ! connection ( ! leg seams :5 ! front is cut small & ! back wide1 & = squ>+ ! bottom ( pants4 ,nev] *ange ! angle ( sev5 & a half degrees z a base4 ,nev] try to f9d ! p]p5dicul> & horizontal l9es on a pants1 except = a p]son :o always /&s p]fectly /ill2 & z no su* p]sons are f\nd1 said l9es are !re=e useless4 ,all[ance 9 ! curve ( ! back ( a pants _c spread l ! front1 b w hang !re l a bag1 & may ev5 cut ! seat4 ,extra wid? %\ld nev] be all[$ 9 ! back ( ! crot*2 bett] all[ x ov] ! hip4 ,all[+ extra wid? 9 ! crot* is j l all[+ extra clo? on ! front ( ! armhole1--x makes ! :ole small]4 ,! trick 9 alt]+ any g>m5t is to fir/ asc]ta9 :at w make x worse1 & !n make ! contr>y alt]ation4 ,example3 ,if a pants cuts 9 ! seat p9* ! top ( ! sides toge!r1 :i* w make x worse1 !n put a w$ge 9 ! top ( ! side seam1 & r$uce aga9 9 ! c5t] ( back4 ,if y f9d y\r pants too l>ge or too small d n *ange ! drafts1 b take ! measure small] or l>g]1 z ! case may be4 ,take ! seat measure close1 l measur+ a b>rel1 & h no slack4 ,y\r cu/om]'s pants wai/ mu/ be z l>ge z :at he measures :5 he is 9 a sitt+ position4 ,a man's wai/ 9 t attitude may exp& any:]e f "o to five in*es4 ,a wai/-b& made accord+ to ! old tea*+s1 z ?ree-f\r?s in*es m ?an half measures1 w n /& ! te/1 & is a delusion4 ,if a cu/om] tells y to make 8 clo?+ v l>ge1 he means t x %\ld n be too small4 ,if he in/ructs y to make x tight1 he means t he wants x n too l>ge4 ,ei!r w be return$ if x does n come up to 8 actual wants4 ,if a cu/om] gives y a ?\s& & "o directions1 take !m all 91 /udy :at he wants1 or :at he really ne$s1 make 8 g>m5t accord+ly1 & he w usually turn out z a cu/om] n h>d to please4 ,b if he tells y t y are ! tailor2 t y "k be/ :at he wants2 t y %all make x accord+ to y\r judgm5t1 d n ?9k t he w take any?+1 = he w usually turn out to be a v p>ticul> cu/om]1 :o expects y to "k y\r bus9ess4 ,rememb] t old m5 require a l>g] seat--t is1 a l>g] back slope 9 _! pants2 because1 9 ag$ p]sons1 ! seat actually caves d[nw>d1 h5ce old p]sons gr[ %ort]4 ,give boys consid]able /raddle 9 _! pants1 n only = com=t1 b = ! m important reason t boys %\ld nev] h any pressure on _! sexual organ4 ,?\s&s ( "y m5 g to _! e>ly graves because "s silly tailor made _! pants too tight1 by :i* !y le>n$ to abuse !mselves4 ,bett] talk half an h\r ) y\r cu/om] aft] he has be5 measur$1 9 ord] to obs]ve 8 build1 r ?an to sp5d half a day 9 alt]+ aft]w>ds4 ,d n consid] y\rself too exp]t a cutt] n to try on ! coat y cut4 ,no cutt] is infallible4 ,b try+ on a coat )\t sleeves w be f\nd 8no good40 ,y\r trade w dep5d ^u h[ y please y\r cu/om]s1 n h[ *eaply y "w4 ,! be/ cu/om] is he :o tru/s y1 & ! wor/ is he :om y tru/4 ,z long z y\r cu/om] believes t no "o else c fit him1 y w h 8 patronage4 ,a ca% cu/om]'s trade is lo/ z soon z y tru/ him4 ,tru/ no man = 8 w$d+ suit1 ev5 if y ev] d get y\r pay2 y w e>n x ov] aga9 by 8dunn+0 him4 ,! be/ way to collect bad debts1 is nev] to scatt] any ar\nd y4 ,a l>ge fun]al is _h only by ^? :o collect _! dues4 ,y may feel happi] if y give a poor man a suit ( clo?+4 ,try x4 ,y w surely be angry if y tru/ a s-call$ 8g5tleman0 & get caught--bett] n try x2 b put y\r tru/ 9 ,god4 ,d n try to alt] a faulty wai/ by *ang+ ! neck ( a coat1 or vice v]sa4 ,y w always fail4 ,d n try to conv9ce y\r cu/om] t y h sold him a suit too *eap4 ,y w lose him1 = he expects t y w endeavor to make x up if he gives y ano!r *ance1 & !re=e w buy ! next suit else:]e4 ,if an old cu/om] beg9s to grumble1 try to pacify him1 b if y _c1 bett] let him g = a "t2 he w be s mu* bett] :5 he returns4 ,a new cu/om] may be 8cranky0 :5 he />ts 9 ) y1 b if y treat him "r he may turn out to be y\r be/ "o4 ,to make a nice edge on wor/$ goods )\t b9d+1 "w ! und]side ) a button-hole /it* & fill ! edge l broadclo?4 ,x takes a few h\rs extra "w to make su* an edge = a coat1 b x saves ! b9d+1 & x makes a neat job = anyone :o does n want b9d+ on ! edges ( 8 g>m5ts4 ,reasonable /ret*+ ( ! edges ( a button-hole1 :ile mak+1 is bett] ?an draw+ ! edges toge!r4 ,cords to "w button-holes ov] %\ld be made by twi/+ ?ree or f\r f9e ?reads ( silk toge!r1 & d\bl+ x & lett+ t twi/ toge!r aga94 ,?is w make a /rong cord1 :i* w n fade l gimp or l95 ?read4 ,cord$ pockets on ravelly mat]ial %\ld be sew$ d\ble1 n "o seam on top ( ! o!r1 b "o alongside ( ! o!r4 ,next to natural gas1 gasol9e is ! *eape/ & ! mo/ conv5i5t fuel = heat+ irons 9 ! hot season4 ,gasol9e w loos5 & de/roy all gum at ! pants bottom1 or :]ev] x is us$4 ,gasol9e is ! be/ article to clean /raw goods1 if us$ ) a bru%1 & x is ! be/ & *eape/ article to remove grease1 or any spots f clo?4 ,to remove fre% pa9t spots f clo?1 soak ! pa9t ) "s k9d ( oil1 common coal oil w d1 until ! pa9t becomes loose & s(t2 !n wa% out ) soap & wat]4 ,?is w n injure ! clo?1 nor w x require any scrap+ :]eby ! nape or surface ( ! clo? is made ?readb>e4 ,gu>antee no?+ b ! fit & good sew+2 all o!r gu>antees are wor?less to ei!r p>ty4 ,h[ c y gu>antee ! color ( any mat]ial :5 y "k t ra9 & sun & "t w *ange ev5 ! color ( a live animal8 ,gu>antee ! color only s f> z to be z good z any o!r ( t k9d1 or z f> z y "k1 & y\r cu/om] w always be satisfi$ ) y if n ) ! color ( 8 g>m5t4 ,pieces ( silesia are j z good = /ays z ,holl& l95 is2 !re=e cut y\r sleeve l9+ or y\r ve/ l9+ out ( ! :ole clo?4 ,z a g5]al rule1 g>m5ts %\ld be made up ) v little wadd+4 ,i h made my ve/s )\t wadd+ = ye>s & no cu/om] has f\nd fault4 ,black wadd+ %\ld nev] be us$ = ve/s1 x soils ! l9+4 ,"s1 especially "y cutt]s1 may n "k ! foll[+1 b to !m x w be wor? ! price ( ?is book3 ,if a coat is too small 9 ! brea/ & no outlet any:]e1 cut ! canvas1 & all l9+ & all padd+ ?r\gh d[nw>d1 & at ! c5t] ( ! brea/1 & ins]t a w$ge ( say "o in*1 aft] :i* ! outside c be /ret*$ t mu*1 & ! /ret*+ w nev] g back4 ,if ! armholes are too small & no outlets1 & ! brea/ w become too small if ! armholes are cut =w>d1 cut ! l9+ & padd+ ?r\gh1 "u ! arm d[n to ! wai/1 ins]t a w$ge ( say "o in* & /ret* an artificial w$ge 9 ! outside until ! armhole is l>ge en\gh2 ?is works always4 ,x may co/ a good deal to alt] su* a coat1 b if a coat is wor? alt]+ at all x is wor? alt]+ "r1 & x is bett] to sp5d a few doll>s = alt]ation ?an to ?r[ ! coat away2 b y mu/ be a cutt] or a bu%elman :o kn[s h[ to d x4 ,to f9d an angle ( #ace deg41 g up & sidewise equal di/ances & /rike a l9e z 9 ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,an angle ( #ace deg4 is "o squ>e1 & "o-half squ>e divid$ f corn] to corn]4 ,! angle ( #abj deg4 consi/s ( two po9ts ( ! circle1 z %[n 9 ,dias4 ,,xi & ,,xii2 ea* po9t is #fj deg4 ,! ,equilat]al ,triangle consi/s ( ?ree equal l9es1 ea* l9e ( :i* is #fj deg41 l 9 ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,to f9d ! angle ( #ae deg41 spread two l9es "o-f\r? ( _! l5g?1 or #bj 94 long & #e 94 wide4 ,to f9d ! angle ( #g deg41 spread two l9es "o-eigh? ( _! l5g?1 or #hj 94 long & #aj 94 wide4 ,if ,i _h kn[n some?+ ( geometry1 x w\ld h sav$ me ye>s ( labor on ?is book1 b someh[ we all mu/ dig = our liv+1 & sometimes our digg+ is v unc]ta91 & we may f9d ?+s :i* we nev] dug =4 ,su* is ! ways ( an ,allwise ,provid5ce1 & x is a bless+1 maybe 9 disguise1 t we mu/ grope 9 ! d>k2 b :5 ev]y?+ ar\nd u is d>k & unc]ta91 we %\ld put 8,our tru/ 9 ,god10 & we w be br\ght f 8,d>kness to ,light10 9 due "t4 ,a %ort lecture to "y cutt]s3 8,! glory ( "y m5 is _! /r5g?1 & ! beauty ( old m5 is _! gray head40 ,"y cutt]s1 d n sp5d y\r /r5g? on fa/ wom51 nor d y ex*ange y\r money or y\r beauty = /rong dr9k2 y ne$ all ( x :5 y are old1 & all ( x y %\ld h :ile "y4 ,z a g5]al rule old cutt]s are useless4 ,y may kick aga9/ su* a fate to y\r he>t's cont5t1 b x w d y no good4 ,! old mu/ decl9e4 ,z x is n natural = "y wom5 to c\rt ! att5tion ( old m51 s x is n natural = "y m5 to patronize old cutt]s or tailors4 ,m]*ant tailor+1 )\t "y m5's patronage1 w1 & mu/ always be a failure4 ,=get x n6 ,=get x n6 ,h[ to treat an appr5tice3 ,i comm5c$ 9 ,m>*1 #ahdh1 to le>n tailor+4 ,i work$ ?ree ye>s = no?+2 my p>5ts furni%$ me ) clo?+ & bo>d+4 ,!re 7 only two h\ses betwe5 my p>5ts & t ( my ma/]1 & "s ( my folks always call$ me :5 ready to eat1 & ,i _h to come back :5 eat+ 0 done2 !re 0 no su* a ?+ z an h\r ( re/ at any meal4 ,! fir/ two ye>s ( my appr5tice%ip 71 ,i believe1 worse ?an ! lot ( any slave4 ,9 summ] "t ,i _h to come to "w at lea/ at five 9 ! morn+1 & aft] ab\t "o & "o-half h\rs "w1 ,i _h to get breakfa/1 & ?us ,i kept on until d>k1 :i* 0 ne> n9e 9 t latitude & 9 ! longe/ days4 ,9 fall & w9t] ,i _h to be !re at six 9 ! morn+ & keep up till n9e 9 ! ev5+1 & ?ree or f\r weeks be=e any holiday ,i _h to "w till midnight & all day ,sunday4 ,= all ?is ,i d n rememb] to h receiv$ m ?an 8zwei gro%50 z sp5d+ money1 dur+ ! fir/ two ye>s4 ,b ! ma/] work$ at ! same rate1 & 9 ! spr+ ( #ahej he di$ ( consumption4 ,aft] t ! wid[ c>ri$ on ! bus9ess1 & a new =eman1 ,mr4 ,geo4 ,hase1 treat$ me m human4 ,z a g5]al ?+1 he w\ld n let me "w ov] twelve h\rs a day1 & e n[ & !n he gave me a few 8gro%50 = sp5d+ money1 & ! ,"l has bless$ him ) a long life1 & s f> z ,i "k he is /ill liv+ 9 ,craw=d ,co41 ,o41 & well & he>ty1 & z an ex-soldi]1 draws a good p5sion f 8,uncle ,sam40 ,b ,i mu/ return to my fir/ two ye>s s]fdom4 ,i _h to sew all ! seams2 ,i 0 no?+ b a sew+ ma*9e1 & aft] "o ye>'s slav]y ,i c\ld sew l lightn+ & t 0 all t ,i _h le>n$ dur+ t "t4 ,i 0 con/antly driv5 to sew fa/]1 9 ord] t o!rs might g ahead ) _! "w1 & 9 my mis]y to escape f su* a 8hell-hole10 ,i conceiv$ ?is wi%3 ,if ,i c\ld contrive some?+ by :i* means ,i c\ld make /it*es z fa/ z ,i c\ld c\nt1 ,i %\ld n c>e if ,i _h to give 8,old ,h>ry0 a de$ = myself1 = all "t to come4 ,boys may h ideas1 too1 & ?is 0 "o ( !m4 ,at t "t ,i _h no idea t t same ?+ 0 j !n complet$ 9 ,am]ica1 & t1 too1 )\t ! help ( ! devil4 ,well1 aft] ,i came to ,am]ica 9 #aheb & f\nd t j !n sew+ ma*9es 7 complet$1 & t !y sew$ ev5 fa/] ?an ,i c\ld c\nt1 ,i 0 v glad t ,i 0 =tunate en\gh n to be ! inv5tor ( "o1 ?\gh !re 7 millions 9 x4 ,i w\ld always consid] t ,old ,h>ry w\ld appe> & prove a j claim aga9/ me4 ,i />t$ ?is po9t to tell h[ to treat a boy1 b ,i %\ld h said3 8,h[ n to treat him40 ,b ,i mu/ />t 9 aga94 ,dur+ ! la/ fifte5 ye>s ,i h in/ruct$ sev5 boys1 & ,i h f\nd t boys ( sixte5 to sev5te5 ye>s ( age are ! be/ to in/ruct4 ,su* boys are able to "w1 :ile y\ng] ones are too t5d] to be kept con/antly at "w1 & old] ones soon ?9k !mselves too sm>t1 or too big to obey1 b ev5 if !y are ob$i5t1 !y are naturally h>d] to in/ruct1 especially :5 !y comm5ce runn+ aft] ! girls4 ,!re are exceptions1 h[ev]1 & ,i w\ld soon] in/ruct an intellig5t boy ( tw5ty ye>s1 if ,i 7 satisfi$ t 8 m9d 0 made up to le>n4 ,take only heal?y1 intellig5t boys1 :o w5t to s*ool1 & are will+ to "w4 ,i h reject$ sev]al boys ^: p>5ts came to me say+3 8,he is n fit = mu*1 b he is good en\gh = a tailor10 or1 8he is ly+ ar\nd on ! /reet1 & we want him to g to ! tailor %op1 s he le>ns to d some?+10 etc4 ,well1 z long z a boy is fit to be a tailor1 well & good1 he ne$s no o!r qualification1 b ! qualifications to become a good tailor are j z v>i\s z t ( a lawy]1 or a doctor1 or a prea*]4 ,if a boy is n br\ght up to "w1 b has be5 loaf+ mo/ ( ! "t1 ,i w\ld n risk him z an appr5tice4 ,aft] all o!r ?+s are consid]$1 & ! appr5tice is to be tak51 make z good a b>ga9 ) him or 8 p>5ts1 z y c4 ,get him z *eap z y c2 tell him t tailor+ is all "w1 ) n mu* fun 9 x1 & make him "w regul> h\rs1 & any boy c /& t5 h\rs "w4 ,give him to und]/& t he is n to be a slave1 ?\gh he mu/ "w1 & if he pays att5tion to ! "w & le>ns fa/1 & does :at c reasonably be expect$1 give him a ^w ( praise & a qu>t] or half a doll> weekly = 8 special use1 & :5 a %[ comes ar\nd1 or some?+ special goes on1 give him a ticket & a holiday & y w h ! good w ( ! boy1 & t w repay y = any lib]ality y may be/[ ^u him4 ,my way ( in/ruct+ boys 0 ?is3 ,to le>n to sew a back-/it* by h&1 to fell on pat*es1 to get acqua9t$ ) ! sew+ ma*9e1 to clean1 oil & op]ate x1 on /raight seams fir/4 ,next tea* him to ba/e up ! sleeves & to make ! sleeves on common coats if any su* are made4 ,tea* him to make inside coat pockets1 hip pockets 9 pants if x c be done1 !n gradually %[ him h[ to make a pocket = ! outside ( a coat1 tea* him to ba/e & to pad ! canvass & padd+ ov] ! brea/4 ,%[ him h[ x is to be done1 & :y x is to be done s1 & n o!rwise4 ,if he makes any?+ wrong1 expla9 x aga91 & aga94 ,nev] scold & call h>d names1 & if y say "s h>% words to him1 speak t mu* m pleasant to him a few m9utes lat]4 ,make him und]/& t y c smile ov] "o ( 8 mi/akes & t he mu/ n hide !m1 & t he w make mi/akes z long z he works at tailor+1 & t all tailors are 9 ! same condition & !re=e mu/ wat* !mselves4 ,a boy ) a s5sible in/ructor c le>n ! above 9 six mon?s1 & !n he is wor? some?+1 & )9 "o ye> f ! />t a boy c le>n to make a fair sack coat1 & 9 ano!r ye> he ought to be able to make a tol]able good coat1 pants & ve/4 ,boys %\ld be taught to make pants & ve/s besides mak+ coats1 9 ord] t !y may be able to in/ruct o!rs1 %\ld occasion require4 ,z soon z a boy is able to h&le a ne$le1 he %\ld be set to "w1 to sp5d any "t he may h to sp>e1 9 mak+ button holes1 :i* may be j z well done1 9 ! beg9n+ z 9 ! end4 ,let boys "w button holes 9 pat*es1 & 9 a few weeks !y may be able to make button holes 9 ! flys ( pants1 & by ! end ( two ye>s !y are able to make a good button hole4 ,x is also a good idea = boys to become acqua9t$ ) cutt+ g>m5ts z soon z possible4 ,!y w le>n fa/]1 because !y h m int]e/ 9 tailor+1 & are /imulat$ by ! hope ( becom+ cutt]s 9 due "t2 & ev5 if !y nev] become cutt]s1 !y w be s mu* bett] tailors if !y "k h[ to cut4 ,x is true n all good tailors w make good cutt]s1 & vice v]sa1 b 8cutt+0 is consid]$ a high] degree ( tailor+1 & e tailor ought to "k some?+ ab\t ! cutt+ & ! fitt+ ( ! g>m5ts he makes4 ,f ! 8,,bo/on ,,transcript03-- ,,! ,,tailor4 ,! tailor is a v wor?y p]son1 not)/&+ 8 occupation1 l t ( ! enemy ( mank9d1 is to sew te>s4 ,y c h>dly call him a p]son1 z x takes n9e ( him to make a man4 ,!re=e :5 anybody asks y if a tailor is a man1 y mu/ answ]1 ,ne94 ,a tailor1 9 fact1 is b "o-n9? ( a man1 a vulg> fraction4 ,?is makes him a little man1 or a manik91 & !re=e to man ak94 ,h5ce1 = conv5i5ce sake1 ,i w call him a man4 ,mo/ m5 reap :at !y s[1 b ! tailor rev]ses ! process & sews :at he rips4 ,he is g5]ally kept h>d at "w1 z 8 bus9ess is mo/ ( ! "t press+4 ,sometimes he is q poor1 b ne$ nev] g hungry1 z he always has a goose1 & f9ds no difficulty 9 gett+ all ! cabbage he wants4 ,"s p compla9 ( ! tailor because he is g5]ally beh9d "t ) _! g>m5ts2 b ! tailor doesn't c>e to sell clo!s on "t1 & 9 fact he suits mo/ ( 8 cu/om]s4 ,_m mean ?+s are quot$ aga9/ ! tailor1 b he gets ev5 by coat+ ^? :o talk ab\t him4 ,no matt] h[ he seems 9 society1 a good tailor always seams :5 ab\t 8 "w4 ,!re is "o ?+ v /range ab\t ! tailor4 ,al?\gh ! pantaloons he turns out are con/ruct$ on correct pr9ciples1 he makes !m all cross-legg$4 ,l o!r m5 he pants = r5[n1 b is ma9ly conc]n$ = ! r5[n ( 8 pants4 ,if y say ought aga9/ 8 tr\s]s1 ,i tr[1 sirs1 he w give y fits4 ,no matt] h[ he may we> ) o!rs1 ! tailor tries to make o!rs we> well4 ,if he tru/s y = y\r bree*es1 d n repay 8 k9dness by brea*es ( tru/4 ,he cuts 8 clo? economically1 & yet mu* ( x goes to wai/4 ,! tailor is z good z man 9 g5]al1 b ,i nev] knew b "o ,g5]al ,taylor :o a*iev$ especial di/9ction4 ,"s p object to ! tailor on acc\nt ( 8 bill2 b x mu/ be admitt$ t a little bill is beak com+4 ,! tailor is a great /ud5t ( human nature4 ,he takes ! measure ( e "o ( 8 cu/om]s4 ,( ?is y may surely speak4 ,! tailor is full ( pluck4 ,i h se5 him coll> a man twice z big z himself1 & he did x coolly & )\t *ol]4 ,! good tailor nev] slops ov]1 ?\gh he puts 9 mu* "t ov] slop "w4 ,! tailor cuts to ord] & ord]s to cut4 ,"o ?+ mu/ be said 9 8 dispraise4 ,he is ! mo/ invet]ate fell[ to buttonhole a man y ev] saw4 ,ano!r ?+3 ,not)/&+ almo/ ev]ybody c>es m ab\t ! outside ?an ! inside ( 8 coat1 ! tailor w make ! inside m la/+ ?an ! outside4 ,he makes cu/om "w & w "w = y\r cu/om4 ,too (t5 :5 8 "w is done he has to dun 8 cu/om] = ! pay4 ,! tailor owes 8 liv+ to s91 = ?r\gh s9 came clo?2 b ?\gh "o ( ! clo?1 ! tailor is n a cl]gyman1 :o also1 by ! way1 gets 8 liv+ ?r\gh s94 ,address him at ! old /&1 & a dress he w make y4 ,f ! 8,,am]ican ,,tailor40 ,,blue ,,monday4 ,! cutt] :o is afraid ( ,monday is z mis]able z 8 deadlie/ enemy c\ld wi%4 ,saturday ! coats :i* he has se5 tri$ on 7 all m or less faulty4 ,"o 0 too l>ge1 ano!r too small2 "o kick$ at ! wai/1 ano!r 0 too l>ge at blade2 "o creas$ ?r\gh ! %\ld]1 ano!r fell away f ! neck2 "o saw$ ! e>s & ano!r w\ld n cov] ! coll> button ( ! %irt4 ,he goes to b$ ,saturday wond]+ if ! boss has made up 8 m9d to give him ,hail ,columbia or ! gr& b\nce4 ,he awakes ,sunday1 n]v\s & fidgety1 & feels t he w\ld l to h "s "o die sudd5ly & leave him a =tune s t he c\ld run away & hide 8 mis]y4 ,at noon he ?9ks he may1 aft] all1 come out all "r4 ,at night he wond]s h[ _m suits w come back on ! morr[1 & :5 he sleeps he dreams ( processions ( angry m5 walk+ ov] him ) misfit g>m5ts1 & a disgu/$ employ] try+ to p]suade him t he is a complicat$ idiot4 ,monday morn+ he goes to ! %op reluctantly1 smiles ) a sickly assumption ( confid5ce1 %akes & trembles z he says 8,good morn+10 & wants to p]=m ! knot hole act z ! fir/ bundle ( clo?+ is return$4 ,x is all "r to 8,pity ! sorr[s ( a poor old man10 b :5 x comes to d[nright agony1 we are ( ! op9ion t ! cutt] :o is afraid ( ,monday c disc\nt ! 8poor old man0 & is entitl$ to unlimit$ commis]ation4 ,he is mis]able beyond imag9ation1 cru%$1 *ronically1 into m5tal jelly1 & r5d]$ abject & ridicul\s by ! haunt+ fe> ( return+ bundles4 ,! awful t]rors ( ea* ,monday's morn1 ,make ! poor cutt] wi% he 7 n born4 ,nov4 #bf?1 #ahia1 #d p4 m4 ,?is is ,?anksgiv+ day & ,i am glad ,i c say3 ,?is "w has be5 f9i%$ to-day1 except corrections :i* mu/ yet be made4 ,?is means t ,i h sp5t mo/ ( ?is legal holiday by work+ on ! manuscript ( ?is book1 & ,i hope t "s ( my fell[ workm5 w be b5efit$ by x4 ,b ,i _c let ?is opportunity pass )\t publicly ackn[l$g+ ! guid+ h& ( an ,allwise ,provid5ce1 :i* has be5 visible to me 9 ! pa/ & 9 ^: p[] ,i tru/4 ,i "k ( no bett] way to express my feel+s at ! pres5t h\r ?an to repeat ! fir/ & la/ v]ses ( t beautiful ,g]man hymn :i* 0 sung 9 *ur* ?is morn+3 #a4 ,lobe d] ,h]r5 o me9e ,seele6 ,i* w ihn lob5 bis zum ,tod2 ,weil i* no* ,/und5 auf ,erd5 zhle1 ,w i* lobs+5 me95 ,gott4 ,d] ,leib und ,seele gegeb5 hat1 ,w]de geprieen frh und spt4 ,hallelujah6 ,hallelujah6 #h4 ,rhmet ihr ,m5s*5 d5 hoh5 ,nam5 ,de1 d] s groe ,d+e ?ut6 ,alles 0 ,obem hat ruse ,am56 ,und br+e ,lob mit frohem ,mu?4 ,ihr ,k9d] ,gottes1 lobt und preis't ,vat] und ,sohn und heil'g5 ,gei/4 ,hallelujah6 ,hallelujah6 ,aug4 #ae?1 #ahib4 ,,=ty ,,ye>s ,,( ,,grace4 ,on ! #ae? day ( ,augu/1 #aheb1 ,i 0 a pass5g] on a sail+ %ip ne>ly 9 ! middle ( ! ,atlantic ocean4 ,on t night we _h a /orm ( a pretty good size1 & ! way our old %ip 0 rock+ u1 x seem$ to me t ,i w\ld nev] see daylight aga94 ,well1 t condition ( ?+s w le>n a poor s9n] to pray1 & le>n$ me to pray at lea/ = t night1 & 9 my pray] ( t awful night ,i promis$ ! ,"l1 t if he w\ld deliv] me f ! ,p]ils & ,dang]s ( t night1 ,i w\ld always keep ! #ae? day ( ,augu/ z a day to (f] especial ?anks to ,him z my ,deliv]]4 ,well ! ,"l seems to h he>d my pray] & t /orm pass$ (f & n[--=ty ye>s aft] t "t1 ,i am able to record x 9 ! pages ( ?is book4 ,i feel z ?\gh ,i _c close ?is "w unless ,i give at lea/ "o page ( x to ! praise ( ,him f :om all bless+s fl[1 & :o is able to deliv] u f all dang]s4 ,b ,i mu/ ackn[l$ge t ,i h n fulfill$ ! promise ( ! night ( ! #ae? ( ,augu/1 #aheb1 at lea/ n 9 t s5se 9 :i* ,i made x1 ?\gh ,i h rememb]$ x e ye> b "o1 :5 x slipp$ my m9d until a few days aft]4 ,"s ( my read]s may say t x is silly to write ! above 9 ?is book1 b ,i ?9k any place is good en\gh to give ?anks & praise to ! ,"l4 ,illu/ration ,,supplem5t4 ,! manuscript = ?is "w has be5 clos$1 b ,i feel t ,i mu/ write a few ?+s m1 = ,i int5d to record all t ,i "k1 at lea/ all t :i* ,i rememb] & is wor? kn[+1 & all t :i* ,i may h le>n$ s9ce ! manuscript is clos$4 ,i h come to ! conclusion t x w\ld be bett] to give a frock coat diagram ) no lap at ! front wai/ seam1 & = ?is reason ,i h made ,dia4 ,i,ia1 & 9 ord] to make ! mo/ ( x1 ,i h made x to fit ! foll[+ =ms3 ,i4 ,= a m$ium long neck1 ,,ii4 ,= a m$ium full wai/1 ,,iii4 ,= a m$ium erect position1 ,,iv4 ,= a m$ium %ort =m1 & to ! foll[+ measure3 ,brea/ #cg1 wai/ #cg1 hip #ch1 l5g? ( wai/ #ah1 l5g? ( coat #cf1 l5g? ( legs #cj in*es4 ,dia4 ,i,ia is a trifle wid] at ! %\ld]s ?an ,dia4 ,,ii1 :i* is se5 by ! #i at #fj deg41 & by ! wid? ( ! back at ! armhole1 :i* is numb] m1 & :i* requires ! back sleeve seam %ort] ?an ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,! neck is = a =m ) 94 m l5g? ?an ! normal =m1 h5ce ! top ( back is plac$ at #b1 & ! spr+ betwe5 ! %\ld] seam is 1 :i* requires ! coll> to be sew$ on loose ov] ! side ( ! neck4 ,! armhole is 9 all respects ! same1 & ! neck is *ang$ f ! top ( arm upw>d4 ,dia4 ,i,ia %[s a full wai/ :i* is %[n by ! gore 9 ! und]>m gore at ! wai/1 & 9 ! l>g] wid? 9 ! front ( wai/4 ,! roll is %ort] ?an on ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,x buttons ?ree buttons b may easily be made long]4 ,! heigh? ( back above l9es #i & #ac is only #ad1 be+ %ort] ov] ! blade1 because mo/ all su* =ms are m or less erect =ms4 ,9 place ( a lap ( #a 94 9 front ! wai/ seam has a gore ( #a 94 beh9d1 & ! run ( t seam may be made to suit fancy or /yle4 ,9 cutt+1 ! top ( sidepiece %\ld be run out into ! armhole until x is long en\gh = ! back f ! nicks upw>d1 z %[n on ,dia4 ,,iib4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,iia4 ,,dia4 ,,iib4 ,i also add ano!r diagram1 ,,iib1 :i* illu/rates ! erect & sl5d] =m--holl[ back--full brea/--squ>e %\ld]s--=ms :i* are mo/ly h>d to fit4 ,x is on ! same squ>e z ,dia4 ,,ii & ,i,ia1 b ! diff]5ce is %[n betwe5 ! back & ! side piece4 ,! height ( back is #ad & ! front & back is ev5 at ! neck = ! squ>e %\ld]4 ,n[1 x w be se5 h[ closely ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,i,ia & ,,iib are connect$1 & yet h[ f> !y are f fitt+ ! same =m4 ,) ! help ( ^! ?ree diagrams x seems to me any cutt] %\ld h easy sail+ 9 fitt+ 8 cu/om]s4 ,!re is ! tall1 slim p]son to be fitt$ by ,dia4 ,,ii & ,,iib1 & ! %ort =m & ! full wai/ by ,dia4 ,i,ia1 & any ( ! o!r abnormal conditions "h %[n by ! ?ree diagrams1 may be tak5 f "o ( !m & plac$ on ! o!r4 ,(t51 ! abnormal conditions may be j contr>y to ! illu/ration4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,iib4 ,,dia4 ,,viii ,b4 ,?is is produc$ "h z a f9e seam] sack4 ,x c be us$ z a ?ree seam] by tak+ a trifle m out betwe5 ! back & side4 ,= a %ort roll all[ #a in* 9 front ( po9t #i only1 & r$uce ! gore "u ! lapel to ab\t in*4 ,! back is holl[$ out at ! wai/1 & ! c5t] at ! bottom is n ?r[n outside ( ! base4 ,9 all o!r respects x is ! (fspr+ ( ,dia4 ,,viii1 & may be a trifle bett]4 ,9 practical cutt+ x w be f\nd t ,dia4 ,,viii is m t[>d ! erect =m1 because ( its back be+ ?r[n outside ( ! base at ! seat4 ,dia4 ,,viii ,b1 s]ves ano!r purpose & ?is is ! position ( ! "o back on ! squ>e ( #bj1 9 :i* position ! back may be made small] or wid] )\t injur+ ! balance ( ! l5g?s above #ac4 ,at ! neck ! %\ld] laps = ! normal =m4 ,b x illu/rates ano!r po9t4 ,on ,dia4 ,,iii !re w be se5 an op5+ 9 ! "u arm seam runn+ up 9 ! arm hole1 & :i* op5+ is balanc$ = ! ?ree-seam sack by r$uc+ t am\nt betwe5 ! back & side seam4 ,b ! fif? seam on ,dia4 ,,viiib1 balances t "p & ! back & ! side are cut on "o l9e1 f l9e #aa up4 ,x gives a real good %ape1 & ! :ole diagram may be accept$ z good1 b ! measure mu/ be tak5 close4 ,= ! la/ ye> ,i h closely wat*$ ! effects ( long] or %ort] backs1 & ,i mu/ "h repeat t #ae = a frock & #ad = a ve/1 & #ac = a sack are good av]ages4 ,fur!r3 ,t a m erect =m may easily h less1 & a m =w>d1 lean+ =m m1 & a =m l ! ?ird =m 9 8,models0 may h to m l5g?4 ,b ! arm holes mu/ rema9 ! same1 & :atev] ! back is made long]1 mu/ be r$uc$ aga9 9 ! l5g? at ! back armhole4 ,on a frock coat ?is c easily be done by r$uc+ said l5g? betwe5 ! back & side piece1 because ( ! curv$ seam2 b on a sack1 ) its /raight side seam1 su* r$uction w\ld n take up l5g?1 b wid?1 & su* extra l5g? may be tak5 out ( ! %\ld] seam1 provid+ ! back not* = ! sleeve is ?r[n t mu* fur!r d[n4 ,aga91 if ! back is to be %ort5$ ! contr>y alt]ation mu/ be obs]v$1 b to less back1 may be ! extreme am\nt = an erect =m1 :ile a /oop+ =m may require = ! extreme4 ,/ret*+ ! c5t] ( ! back 9 l5g? ab\t #d in*es sidewise & at ! po9t ( ! blade1 w h ! same effect1 provid+ ! coat mak] w d x1 or is in/ruct$ to d x4 ,a hot iron 9 ! h&s ( a skillful tailor is a mighty factor t[>d mak+ a g>m5t :at x ought to be4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,viii4 ,b4 ,,dia4 ,,xxiv4 ,is also submitt$ z an aft] ?\ght4 ,i d\bt if any pants c be made :i* fit bett] ?an ?is did on ! p]son x 0 made =4 ,x is a broad fall ) ! wai/ b& cut on4 ,! diagram itself %[s ! measure ( ! man x 0 made =4 ,! space betwe5 ! top ( ! 8fall0 & ! top ( ! 8fall piece0 %\ld nev] be less ?an #a in*es & may be made #b in*es4 ,! 8fall0 %\ld be cut wide = small wai/$ m51 & n>r[ = l>ge wai/s1 & ea* cutt] mu/ be able to judge = himself h[ wide ea* %\ld be1 & aga91 :]e ! pockets are to be made & :]e ! button holes %\ld be made1 9 ord] t pockets & buttons d n int]f]e ) ea* o!r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxiv4 ,,dia4 ,,xxv4 ,repres5ts a boy's knee pants ( #bi seat measure1 & x w prove to be good4 ,i h made ! back & front ev5ly wide at ! bottom1 b !re is no law aga9/ mak+ ! =e "p small] on ea* side1 & ! back t mu* wid]4 ,add ! wai/ b& = susp5d]s4 ,b if x is cut = a small] size & worn on a wai/1 ! #aj numb]s are long en\gh = ! wai/4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxv4 ,,tight ,,pants4 ,9 a few ye>s pants w aga9 be worn small] at ! knee1 & ,dia4 ,,xix mu/ be r$uc$ at ! knee & at ! ?igh4 ,x is h>d to tell :at ! bottoms w be !n1 b = all t ! c5t] ( foot & heel is "h = a guide4 ,"t w %[ if pants w !n be made ) l>ge spr+ bottoms or :e!r !y w be made aga9 z !y 7 a few ye>s ago1 h>dly l>ge en\gh = ! leg to pass ?r\gh4 ,b ,i w say ?is4 ,dia4 ,,xix w fit at ! seat & upw>d = any /yle4 ,at ! =k x may be r$uc$ "o seam on ! =ep>t only1 & at ! side ( ?igh x may be r$uc$ "o seam on ea* back & on ea* front1 = a close fit4 ,at ! side ( ! knee ! angle ( #aj deg4 may be holl[$ out to on ea* back & on ea* front1 or s mu* z ! inw>d curve ( side ( ! knee w w>rant4 ,at ! inside ( ! knee all[ to on ! d\ble to ! angle ( #aj deg41 all ( :i* w produce a knee ( ab\t #ah in*es made up1 & t w be pretty close = a seat ( #ch4 ,aga91 if size #ch is reproduc$ = a size #ce1 ! knee w be ab\t #ah in*es made up1 & if f ?is is tak5 away in* on ea* =ep>t & on ea* back at ! side ( ! knee to repres5t ! holl[ ( ! leg !re1 & :i* is n %[n 9 ! pres5t /yle1 ! knee w make up #ag in*es :i* aga9 is a fair wid? = a n>r[ leg = size #ce4 ,ano!r good way to produce a close fitt+ knee is ?is3 ,f ! c5t] l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 measure bo? ways & give on ! d\ble inseam in*es m ?an on ! d\ble outside1 & ?is rule w hold good on all =ms1 because ! c5t] ( ! angle ( #aj degrees is ! c5t] = ! pants leg1 b ! inside ( ! leg is /raight :ile ! outside is holl[$ out ab\t in*es1 & t holl[ mu/ be imitat$ 9 ord] to make a close fit ( ! pants4 ,,dia4 ,,xxvi4 ,b 9 ord] to %[ ! correct idea ( a close fitt+ pants1 ,i h add$ ,dia4 ,,xxvi to ! supplem5t4 ,x is = a =m :i* w g ) ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,seat size #ce1 wai/ made up #cc1 knee & bottom #ag 941 l5g? ( legs #cb 94 ,x may be call$ old /yle n[1 b x w be 9 /yle at ! close ( ! ,n9ete5? c5tury1 or c]ta9ly at ! dawn ( ! ,tw5tie? c5tury4 ,= spr+ bottoms all[ on ea* side ( ! back1 />t+ ab\t #e 94 above ! bottom1 & take away f ! bottom ( ! =ep>t an equal am\nt on ea* side1 or s mu* until ! =ep>t is r$uc$ to less ?an #g 94 ,dia4 ,,xxvi is m>k$ 8#g 94 above bottom0 = ! reason t ! wid? ( ! pants1 ab\t #g 94 above ! bottom1 mu/ be ! same1 no matt] if ! legs are #cj or #ce 94 long4 ,! seams are not*$ f a sweep hav+ its pivot at po9t #hj1 :i* ( c\rse is cut (f on ?is diagram4 ,sweep+ ea* side sep>ately f ! bottom ( ! pants & on ea* l9e ( ! angle ( #aj deg4 w result 9 ! same ?+4 ,! diagrams 9 ! :ole book repres5t ! foll[+ seat sizes3 #bi1 #ce1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #df2 & x seems to me t any new beg9n] %\ld be able to control ! diff]5t p>ts 9 ! int]v5+ sizes4 ,z to coats1 !re w be no tr\ble to cut !m ) ! scale & accord+ to in/ructions4 ,b = pants1 ! scale c only be reli$ on = ! crot* or =k2 all o!r po9ts1 su* z wai/1 hip1 knee & bottom1 mu/ be cut accord+ to ! measure4 ,h5ce ! pants diagrams are giv5 9 diff]5t sizes4 ,! =k z giv5 by ! scale is l>ge en\gh ) #d on d\ble clo? = ! dress side1 b may be made ) #d4 ,i w aga9 w>n a cutt] aga9/ giv+ m =k = extra loos5ess1 nor to all[ beh9d on top ( back = extra wai/ proportion1 b to all[ all extra clo? at ! side1 unless x is = a l>ge wai/1 :5 x is to be cut l ,dia4 ,,xx or ,,xxiv4 ,! top l9e ( ! back slope ( #ae deg4 is l>ge en\gh = all =ms1 & besides x is l>ge en\gh to buckle up on ea* side ( ! back seam1 & :i* may be cut away !re1 or may be cut away 9 ! gore 9 ! middle ( ! back :5 an extra close wai/ is to be made4 ,! back slope mu/ rema9 p]man5t1 & all *anges made sidewise or =w>d4 ,i w "h add two v important po9ts 9 alt]+ pants3 ,pants :i* mu/ be cut d[n because !y are too l>ge 9 size c always be made bett] if !y are op5$ 9 front & cut small] !re & d[n to ! knee4 ,x is true1 x may take "o h\r long] to d x ?an to make ! alt]ation beh9d1 b if a pants is wor? alt]+1 x is wor? alt]+ "r4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxvi4 ,ab\t six mon?s ago ,i ?\ght ,i w\ld try a few pants ) ! =k po9ts cut 94 high]1 leav+ all o!r po9ts ! same1 b !y turn$ out to be fir/-class failures4 ,!y 7 too %ort at ! bottom1 & fitt$ only :5 ! legs 7 spread ap>t sev]al feet1 & 9 :i* position !y 7 long en\gh1 b :5 ! p]son sat d[n !y crawl$ up to ! top ( 8 %oes4 ,f ?is ,i drew ! foll[+ conclusion3 ,/ret*+ ! inseams w ?r[ ! legs sidewise1 & w h ! same effect z cutt+ ! crot* high]1 & :5ev] pants "w t way1 ! =k po9ts %\ld be cut d[n ab\t in*1 b )\t di/urb+ ! po9t 9 front ( l9e #h any m ?an c be help$1 b ! =k wid? mu/ be re-e/abli%$4 ,?is may make ! bottom %ort1 & requires ! legs to be let out bel[1 b x w e/abli% a bett] fit4 ,i w "h aga9 po9t out ! fact1 t ! inseam /ret*es m easily ?an ! outside1 & cutt]s mu/ provide = su* defects1 f :atev] cause !y may orig9ate4 ,i _c specify am\nts1 b c only po9t out ! way ( alt]ation1 ei!r aft] ! pants are made or be=e !y are cut1 & w only add3 ,cutt+ ! =k in* d[n w cause ! leg to be ?r[n #a in* m t[>d ! c5t] ( ! leg1 & in* ( alt]ation may be consid]$ ! extreme alt]ation = any pants cut accord+ to ?is "w4 ,if a patt]n is cut = pants ) pl5ty not*es at ! seams1 a cutt] c soon f9d out :e!r ! seams h be5 /ret*$1 & h[ mu*4 ,x pays to cut all g>m5ts ov] patt]ns4 ,,dia4 ,,iv ,a4 ,i also add a d\ble-brea/$ ve/4 ,kn[+ :at tr\ble ,i h _h myself 9 gett+ ! front ( su* a ve/ to fit1 ,i came to ! conclusion t ?is "w is n complete )\t su* a diagram1 & ,dia4 ,,iv ,a is pres5t$4 ,x has ! neck & ! %\ld]s on ! same pr9ciple po9ts z ,dia4 ,,iv1 & x only rema9s = me to say a few words ab\t sev]al po9ts4 ,at ! bottom ( ! armhole ! back is plac$ at po9t #aa1 & is ( a numb] long] ?an 9 ,dia4 ,,iv1 b t extra l5g? ( back %\ld be giv5 to a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ because ! long & op5 front c settle bett] to its place4 ,on acc\nt ( ! l>ge curve 9 front1 ! neck b& is ab\t in* high] beh9d1 ?us giv+ less spr+1 & = ?is reason ! side ( ! neck %\ld be pretty well /ret*$4 ,! diagram itself furni%es no spr+ outside ( ! angle ( #ace deg41 b may be giv5 & ! back sew$ on smoo?4 ,! gore "u ! coll> %\ld be cut = all su* ve/s1 b t gore %\ld h>dly be m ?an ! two seams4 ,if ! seam is drawn toge!r a cut ( is pl5ty1 provid+ ! neck is n /ret*$ aga9 by sew+ ! coll> on4 ,! bottom ( front is repres5t$ ) a good siz$ 8lap ov]10 & if less is desir$ take in* (f at ! front edge & set ! buttons in* =w>d4 ,! buttons are #b numb]s backw>d ( ! /raight front l9e4 ,a d\ble-brea/$ ve/1 to button up to ! neck1 mu/ h a l>ge gore "u ! coll> z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iv ,a1 = two /raight pieces w nev] fit ! *e/ ( a man :5 !y are to be lapp$ ov] ea* o!r f ?ree to f\r in*es4 ,= ! :ole bottom ( ! =ep>t sweeps f #d99 & ! lap ov] w fit4 ,?is sweep mu/ ext5d ?r\gh ! :ole front angle ( #ae deg4 & may be swept cle> back to ! side seam1 z %[n 9 ,dia4 ,,iv ,a1 b may be sunk d[n in* at ! side seam1 />t+ at ! plumb base l9e4 ,not* ! %\ld] f a sweep f ! side ( ! back or at a po9t #d numb]s f ,o on ! top squ>e l9e4 ,dia4 ,,iv ,a is %[n ) a l>ge op5 front & well curv$ out1 b may be cut /raight] or high]1 or ev5 l[] to suit fancy or /yle4 ,a cu/om] may put up ) a coat t %[s ! corn]s on ea* side ( ! bottom ( ! front1 b he w n we> a d\ble-brea/$ ve/ ) "o side long] ?an ! o!r1 & x is a/oni%+ h[ _m su* ve/s are f\nd1 especially among/ ! ready made clo?+4 ,t defect is n caus$ by *eap ready made "w1 b x is caus$ by ! design] ( ! patt]ns ov] :i* su* ve/s are cut1 & = :i* clo?+ manufactur]s usually pay a lib]al price4 ,writ+ ab\t ready made clo?+ br+s me to ano!r po9t4 ,coats cut ov] ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,,viii ,b & ,x1 w give a bett] av]age fit & a nic] %\ld] & an easi] armhole1 ?an ! great majority ( ready made clo?+ c boa/ (1 & ! same is true ( ! pants & ve/s4 ,illu/ration3 ,,dia4 ,,iv ,a4 ,,dia4 ,,vii ,a4 ,i also give ,dia4 ,,vii ,a1 ( :i* ,dia4 ,,vii is ! p>5t patt]n4 ,?is ,dia4 ,,vii ,a requires no p>ticul> description1 except t ! back ( ,dia4 ,,vii is swung f po9t #aj at ! armhole %\ld] seam1 & ! ord9>y spr+ 9 ! %\ld] seam is add$4 ,9 ! position ( ,dia4 ,,vii ,a ! cutt] may easily ?r[ ! %\ld] seam m =w>d at ! armhole if he s desires x4 ,! neck b& mu/ be a /raight piece1 z wide z button holes c be work$ 91 & ! neck b& mu/ be put on loose at ! side ( ! neck4 ,! wid? 9 front1 & ! dep? ( ! neck 9 front mu/ be regulat$ accord+ to ! coat4 ,! dep? ( ! front ( neck is plac$ at #c1 & is z high z any cape may /&1 b x is easy to cut x l[]4 ,a cape may be cut )\t neck b& by all[+ say in*es on top ( top & side ( back1 & by all[+ a %ort spr+ 9 ! %\ld] seam1 & giv+ a good /ret* besides4 ,illu/ration3 ,dia4 ,,vii a4 ,! la/ illu/ration ,i pres5t is ! 8,coll> z x ,mu/ be ,press$10 ! full description ( :i* is f\nd 9 ! article on 8,coll>s40 ,illu/ration3 ,,z ,,! ,,coll> ,,%\ld ,,be ,,press$ ,kurze ,wi$]holung e9ig] ,hauptpunkte4 ,die ,e9teilung d] ,ma/be i/ folg5de3 ,das halbe ,bru/ma1 od] das halbe ,sitzma zu wel*em #b ,zoll g]e*net s9d1 fr alle ,gren1 w]d5 e+eteilt 9 #bj glei*e ,teile1 s da das gewhnli*e ,zollma d] ,ma/ab i/1 fr die #ce ,gre1 ,bru/ od] ,sitz4 #ag ,zoll i/ die ,hlfte von #ce und #b ,zoll zu #ag ,zoll g]e*net ma*t #bj ,zoll4 ,die #b ,zoll1 wel*e zu j$em halb5 ,bru/1 od] ,sitzmae g]e*net s9d1 ma*5 die kle9]5 ,gren gro g5ug1 und die ,grern kle9 g5ug1 fr alle ,gren4 ,das ,ma wird b] dasj5ige ,kleidung/ck g5omm5 b] wel*es es getrag5 w]d5 soll4 ,bei ,hos5 mu natrli* das ,ma b] die ,hose selb/ g5omm5 w]d51 ab] dehalb mu man au* das ,ma ganz /raff anzieh51 wie beim ,mess5 e9es ,(5rohrs4 ,das ,ma fr die ,hose mu b] d5 grt5 ,teil des ,sitzes g5omm5 w]d51 e9]lei ob die ,hft5 od] d] ,unt]leib grer od] kle9] s9d1 als d] ,sitz selb/4 ,fr ,hos5 i/ d] s e+eteilte ,ma/ab nur vollkomm5 h9rei*5d fr d5 ,sitz1 od] d5 ,s*ritt1 und die ,seit5 naht1 geg5b] des ,sitzes4 ,alle &]n ,weit5 von d] ,taillie bis zum ,fue1 men na* dem ,mae ges*nitt5 w]d54 ,um es ab] ,anfng]n lei*t] zu ma*51 s9d alle ,zei*nung5 9 diesem ,w]ke von v]s*i$55 ,gren gegeb51 weil die ,gren von #be und #ej e9 ganz &]es ,v]hltni am ,knie v]lang5 als die ,gre von #ce4 ,das ,ma fr ,rcke und ,we/5 mu au* eng g5omm5 w]d51 obglei* ni*t s eng1 als fr ,hos54 ,au* mu das ,bru/ma d5 grt5 ,teil des ,s*ult]blattes e9s*lieen4 ,fr die ,we/e i/ das ganze ,bru/ma gewnli* #a ,zoll kle9] als fr d5 ,rock1 und fr d5 ,ueb]rock gebrau*e man j$] ,zeit #b ,zoll mehr als fr d5 ,unt]rock4 ,um die v]s*i$55 ,w9kel1 wel*e 9 d5 #ace deg4 en?alt5 s9d1 re*t zu bekomm51 nehme man e9fa* dia4 ,i4 od] irg5d e9 &]es1 wel*es die ,e9teilung d] #ace deg4 zeugt1 und ma*e die ,li5i5 s lang1 wie sie er=d]li* s9d1 um e9 ,mu/] 9 voll] ,gre zu zei*n54 ,fr ,rcke und ,we/5 kann man si* fr alle ,gren v]lass51 ausg5omm5 fr die ,lng51 und fr die ,weit51 des ,unt]leibes4 ,obglei* die ,weit5 d] ,s*ult]n bess] mit dies5 ,ma/ab5 ermittelt w]d5 knn51 als mit irg5d e9em &]n ,mae1 od] mit irg5d e9] &]n ,b]e*nung1 s w i* d5no* hi] erwhn51 da alle ,gren von #bc bis #dd mit dem ,v]hltnie de ,ma/abes erzielt w]d5 knn52 ab] w5n man b] #dd ,bru/weite h9auf kommt1 s sollte man an dem ,armlo*e und d]j5ig5 ,l9ie1 wel*e mit #fj deg4 bezei*net i/1 #a-af fr j$e h"h ,numm] abre*51 s da e9 #ej ,bru/ma ni*t b] #h an dies] ,/elle erhlt1 und d] ,rck5 sollte ni*t b] #f ,weite hab5 am punkte #h1 od] an dem ,c5trum des ,a]mels4 ,au* sollte die ,tiefe des ,armlo*s 9 demselb5 ,v]hltnie erhht w]d54 ,whr5d das vord]e ,armlo* an d] ,li5ie von #de deg4 bleibt1 wird dann d] vord]e ,a]melzwick viellei*t bis hh] ge/ellt4 ,w5n dieses beoba*tet wird1 s wird die ,s*ult] niemals zu breit w]d5 fr die grer5 ,numm]n4 ,die ,s*ult]n wa*s5 niemals 9 ihr] ,breite zu dem ,v]hltni d] grern ,bru/weit54 ,man wird niemals v]fehl5 d5 ,a]mel 9 das ,armlo* zu pass5 w5n man dia4 ,,ii4 ,,vii4 und ,x4 beoba*tet4 ,dia4 ,,vii4 zei*net e9 kle9es ,armlo* wel*es sehr ge/reckt w]d5 mu1 whr5d dia4 ,,ii4 e9 greres ,armlo* giebt1 ab] mit demselb5 ,a]mel und dah] ni*t s viel ge/reckt w]d5 brau*t4 ,das ,armlo* und d] ,a]mel von dia4 ,x4 s9d vollkomm5 gro g5ug fr e95 ,ueb]zieh]4 ,fr das ,e9nh5 des ,a]mels1 beoba*te man g5au die ,e9zwickung5 des ,armlo*s und des ,a]mels an dia4 ,,ii4 ,dia4 ,,iii4 ,,vii4 ,,viii4 ,,viii4-a ,x4 ,x4a s9d die er/]5 ,platt5 wel*e i* habe ma*5 lass51 whr5d ,,ii4 ,,ii4-a4 ,,ii4-,b4 ,,viii4-,b4 die letzt5 ,producte me9] ,arbeit s9d1 und die ,arml*] und die ,e9zwickung5 s9d e9e ,v]bess]ung4 ,i* s*me mi* ni*t zu sag51 das i* heute mehr wei1 als vor e9em ,jahre1 und i* h(fe1 da i* heute b] e9 ,jahr mehr wei als heute4 ,9 ,bezug auf ,hos51 sei hi] gesagt1 da die ,e9teilung5 d] v]s*i$55 ,zei*nung5 vollkomm5 g5g51 um dem ,anfng] soglei* e95 bess]n ,ueb]blick b] die ganze ,hose zu geb51 als er es irg5d wo f9d5 kann4 ,nur dieses w i* hi] no* bem]k53 ,d] ,s*ritt fr die 8,bekleid5de ,seite0 i/ gro g5ug mit #d ,numm]n1 fr die hlfte d] ,hose1 do* mg5 #d gebrau*t w]d51 und 0 man an d] vord]hose abbri*t1 erlaubt man an d] ,h9t]hose4 ,die sog5annte ,ab/e*ung d] ,h9t]hose i/ niemals zu v]nd]n1 sond]n sollte g5au na* d5 ,zei*nung5 gema*t w]d54 ,j$5falls sollte niemals etwas h9t5 erlaubt w]d5 fr grere ,unt]leibsweite1 sond]n alles 0 d] ,bund mehr v]langt1 mu an d] ,seite und vorn erlaubt w]d54 ,wird d] ob]e ,teil d] ,h9t]hose1 am h9t]n ,ende weit] ges*nitt51 s wird das ,resultat dasselbe se9 als w5n man d5 ,s*ritt kle9] s*neidet4 ,es wre dasselbe als w5n man ,tu* am vord]n ,armlo*e erlaubte1 d5n je mehr man erlaubt1 de/o kle9] wird das ,lo*4 ,fr e9e enge ,taillie kann man no* ,zoll am ob]n ,teile d] ,h9t]hose abnehm51 ab] fr e9e grere ,weite i/ das ,geg5teil ni*t anzuw5d54 ,das halbe ,hos5be9 be/eht e9fa* aus e95 ,w9kel von #aj deg4 zu wel*5 #a am ,s*ritte 7an d] gr/5 ,seite7 erlaubt wird1 und am ob]n ,ende d] ,vord]hose na* vorn 1 whr5d d] ob]e ,teil d] ,h9t]hose #ae deg4 abge/o*5 wird1 wie es 9 all5 ,zei*nung5 zu seh5 i/4 ,ob51 an d] ,seite des ,w9kels von #aj deg4 i/ die ,hose voll/ndig4 ,zwis*5 dies] ,seit5 ,l9ie1 und d5 abge/o*55 #ae deg4 an dem h9t]n ,teile d] ,h9t]hose wird das ,unt]leibsma s angelegt da na* e9em od] zwei kle95 ,e9s*nitt51 und na* ,abre*nung all] ,nhte1 die ,hose s viel mit als die ,p]son 9 sitz5d] ,/ellung4 ,d] ,unt]s*i$ 9 v]s*i$n5 ,p]son51 im ,/eh5 od] im ,sitz5 mag ang5omm5 w]d5 von #a bis #e ,zoll1 na*dem die ,p]son mehr od] w5ig] beleibt i/4 ,beim ,manehm5 fr e9e ,hose1 sollte dieses j$es ,mal beoba*tet w]d51 zumal w5n das ,unt]leibsma gro i/4 ,zu diesem ,zwecke mu das ,ma 9 sitz5d] ,/ellung g5omm5 w]d51 und es wird imm] gut se9 w5n die ob]n ,knpfe (f5 s9d4 ,sollte d] ob5 bespro*5e ,w9kel von #aj deg4 ni*t gro g5ug se9 fr das ,bundma1 s wird ni*t nur g> ke9 ,e9s*nitt 9 die ,h9t]hose gema*t1 und w5n dieses ni*t ausrei*t1 s wird das fehl5de 9 drei glei*e ,teile geteilt1 und zwei ,teile davon w]d5 an d] ,seit5naht erlaubt und e9 ,teil am vord]n ,teile d] ,vord]hose1 zu dem wel*e s*on erlaubt w>51 s da1 w5n die ,hos5 an dem ,leibe s9d1 das grere ,bundma si* 9 drei glei*e ,teile v]teil5 kann1 e9 ,teil an d] re*t51 e9 ,teil an d] l9k5 ,seite und e9 ,teil vorn4 7,siehe dia4 ,,xx4 und ,,xxiv47 ,die ,zei*nung5 fr die ,rcke und ,we/5 s9d s g5au und 9 s v]s*i$55 ,=m5 gegeb51 da es be9ahe unmgli* i/1 sie ni*t zu v]/eh51 selb/ w5n e9 ,zus*neid] ke9 ,wort von d] ,bes*reibung les5 knnte4 ,dia4 ,,iv4 wird 9 j$] ,h9si*t e9 gutes ,mu/] s*neid5 fr d5 normal5 ,krp]wu*s4 ,die ,weite des ,h9t]teils am ,halse sollte niemals w5ig] als #c1 und mag #c se91 und w5n d] ,rck5 an das ,halsb&1 od] an d5 ,krag5 g5ht wird1 s 8mu0 das ,halsb& bis angehalt5 w]d51 ni*t an d] ,mitte sond]n mehr na* d] ,seite1 s nahe als mgli* na* d] ,s*ult]naht zu4 ,od] no* bess] gesagt3 d] ,rck5 sollte soviel ge/reckt w]d51 und um dieses am re*t5 ,platze zu tun1 mu d] ,rck5 s weit als mgli* ges*nitt5 w]d54 ,sollte man si* ni*t auf d5 ,we/5ma*] v]lass5 knn5 s erlaube man lieb] bis ,zoll mehr ,lnge am ob]n ,ende d] ,s*ult]naht wel*es ab] zu ni*ts 9 d] ,mitte dies] ,naht aus lauf5 mu4 ,zweireihige ,we/5 knn5 d5 ,rck5 bis lng] v]trag51 indem diese ,lnge des ,h9t]teiles1 dem ,vord]teile ,geleg5heit giebt1 si* eng] an d5 ,hals anzus*lieen4 ,au* sollte j$e zweirei*ige ,we/e e95 kle95 ,e9s*nitt unt] dem ,krag5 hab51 od] das ,halslo* sollte mit e9em />k5 ,fad5 e+ezog5 w]d54 ,e9e ,we/e1 um weit g5ug zu se91 brau*t das halbe ,bru/ma und #b ,zoll1 an d] ,l9ie von #i bis #ad unt] dem ,arme1 und dia4 ,,iv4 hat dieses ,ma fr j$e ,we/e4 ,die ,taillie brau*t dasselbe ,v]hltni1 und eb5 dasselbe die ,hft54 ,w5n ab] die ,seit5naht #b bis #b ,zoll (f5 bleibt1 od] w5ig/5s s weit1 da sie d5 ,hftkno*5 ni*t b]hr5 kann1 dann brau*t man si* ni*t viel um dieses ,ma zu bekmm]n4 ,w5n das ,unt]leibsma im ,v]hltni grer wird s gebe man von ,anfange 9 d] ,seite und vorne zu glei*5 ,teil5 zu1 na* d5 ab] atwa ,zoll 9 d] ,seite erlaubt word5 s9d1 gebe man alles brige vorne zu4 ,um e9] e+esunk55 ,bru/ e9e ,we/e anzupass51 nehme man e9fa* dia4 ,,iv4 und lege e9e ,falte 9 das ,mu/] von vielei*t bis #a ,zoll1 j5a*dem d] ,bru/ka/5 e+esunk5 i/4 ,diese ,falte mu die ,=m e9es ,v hab51 und mu si* zu ni*ts auslauf5 am unt]n ,ende des ,armlo*s1 ohne das die ,seit5naht davon b]hrt wird4 ,ke9e &]e ,v]nd]ung i/ n?ig1 und i* m*te nur no* bem]k51 da die sog5annte ,s*ult]spitze ni*t dur* diese ,v]krzung des ,vord]teils aus ihrem ,geleise geworf5 wird1 sond]n wie si* die ,bru/ na* und na* ges5kt hat und krz] geword5 i/1 s wird au* e9e sol*e ,we/e v]nd]t1 w5n das ,vord]teil v]krzt wird4 ,diese ,v]nd]ung sollte an all5 sol*5 ,rck5 gema*t w]d51 d5n es i/ e9 groer ,irtum1 w5n man glaubt1 da die vord]e ,s*ult]spitze e9e ,v]nd]ung na* d] vord]n ,bru/l9ie brau*e1 w5n si* d] ,hals od] die ,bru/ na* vorwrts s5kt4 ,e9 ,rock1 od] e9e ,we/e wird an d5 ,hals gepat von d] ,seite na* h9t5 und eb5so von d] ,seite na* vorne1 und w5n si* d] ,hals vorwrts od] rckwrts biegt1 s bleibt die ,weite des ,halslo*s dasselbe4 ,es i/ m]kwrdig wie viele ,zus*neid] heute no* auf d] v]kehrt5 ,me9ung s9d das d] si* vorwrts bieg5de ,hals b$+e1 da die vord]e ,s*ult]spitze weit] na* d] vord]5 ,bru/l9ie ge/ellt w]d5 me4 ,um j$5 vllig von diesem ,irtum zu b]zeug51 lasse man e95 gut gewa*s55 ,man e95 gut sitz5d5 ,rock anzieh51 und dann e9e vorwrts1 od] au* e9e rckwrts bieg5de ,/ellung des ,halses e9nehm51 und j$] d] seh5 w1 kann si* b]zeug51 da d] si* vorwrts bieg5de ,hals mehr ,krze d] ,vord]teils v]langt1 ni*t ab] mehr weite na* dem ,c5trum des ,halses4 ,j$es s erlaubte ,teil na* d] ,mitte des ,halses zu1 ma*t das ,halslo* kle9]1 d] ,hals ab] nimmt se9e ,/ellung e91 und wirft das ,halslo* na* d] ,seite1 und die abs*euli*5 ,falt51 an d] ,seite des ,halses wel*e man an s viel5 ,rck5 und 9 all5 ,himmelsgeg5d5 sieht1 s9d das ,resultat4 ,es i/ mit dem ,halslo*e dasselbe1 als mit dem ,armlo*4 ,w5n dieses ni*t weit g5ug vorwrts ges*nitt5 i/1 s wirft d] ,arm d5 b]flssig5 ,teil 9 ,falt5 b] die ,bru/1 und w5 dazu beide1 ,hals und ,armlo* zu kle9 ges*nitt5 s9d s wird das ,halslo* na* dem ,arm und das ,armlo* na* dem ,halse zu geworf51 und e9e viel5 ,zus*neid]n wohlbekannte ,falte legt si* von d] ,seite des ,halses bis unt] das vord]e ,armlo*4 ,um etwaig5 ni*t englis* les5d5 deuts*5 ,zus*neid]n d5 ob5 bespro*n5 ,irtum g5au zu erklr51 habe i* mi* v]anlat geseh5 dies5 ,na*trag 9 d] deuts*5 ,spra*e zu geb51 und i* h(fe1 da h9 und da ,e9]1 od] au* ,viele1 d>aus ,nutz5 zieh5 w]d54 ,d5 #ba4 ,octob] #ahib1 am ,tage d] #djj ,jhrig5 ,columbusfei]4 ,,index4 ,illu/ration ,,page4 ,preface1 #c ,scales & ,measures1 #f ,pants1 #i ,! ,angle ( #g ,deg4 = ,pants1 #ad ,g5]al ,rem>ks ab\t ,pants1 #bj ,/ripes1 #bf ,coat & ,ve/ ,bases & ! ,angle ( #ace ,deg41 #bg ,squ>es ( #ag & #bj1 #bi ,diamet] ( ,bo? ,%\ld]s f ,side to ,side1 #ca ,angle ( #ae ,deg4 = ,coats & ,ve/s1 #cc ,! ,squ>e & ! ,circle1 #cg ,ve/s1 #ch ,frock & ,sack ,coats & ,ve/s1 #da ,g>m5t f ,neck to ,ankle1 #dd ,comb9ation ( ,frock & ,sack ,coats1 #de ,ov] ,coats--,frock1 ,?ree & ,five ,seam$ ,sacks1 #dg ,figures & ,diagrams1 #eb ,"u ,sack ,coats1 #hi ,n>r[ & ,broad ,backs1 #ib ,! ,neckhole & ,%\ld] ,seam1 #ie ,coll>s1 #ig ,armhole & ,sleeve1 #ajj ,c5t]s ( ,back & ,front1 #ajd ,! ,wai/ ,seam & ,bottom1 #aji ,l>ge ,wai/s & ! ,normal ,=m1 #aab ,/oop+ ,=ms1 #aad ,erect ,=ms1 #aag ,odd ,=ms1 #aba ,l[ ,%\ld]s1 #abd ,extra ,squ>e ,%\ld]s1 #abf ,sci5tific ,calculation 9 ! ,squ>e & ,circle1 #abg ,*ips & ,:et/ones1 #abh ,see ,*ips & ,:et/ones = ! foll[+3 ,/ret*+ ! ,brea/ ( a ,coat & ! ,armhole4--,to make a ?9 edge on wor/$1 )\t b9d+4--,buttonhole ,cords4--,cord$ ,pockets on ,fr+y ,mat]ial4--,h[ to ,treat & ,in/ruct an ,appr5tice4--,lecture to ,"y ,cutt]s1 ,etc4 ,/ret*+ & ,%r9k+3 ,see ,pants4--,g5]al ,rem>ks ab\t ,pants4--,/oop+ ,=ms4--,erect ,=ms4--,c5t] ( ,back & ,front4 ,comb9ation ( ,coat & ,ve/3 ,see ,dia4 ,,iii & ,,xii4 ,sack ) ,two ,seams3 ,see ,und]sacks4 ,sack )\t ,d[nw>d ,seams 7,seamless73 ,see ,und]sacks4 ,supplem5t1 #acc