,illustration          ,illustration    
,to ,mother4          ,twenty years--the
 best of thine3      ,twenty years--a   
quite long time2      ,twenty years of  
thy devotion1      ,twenty years of my  
queer notion4      ,twenty years of     
expectation4      ,twenty years of      
tribulation2      ,twenty years of hope 
and fear1      ,twenty years of wear and
 tear4      ,twenty years of great      
vexations1      ,twenty years of few    
vacations2      ,twenty years of silent 
praying1      ,twenty years of hopes    
delaying4      ,twenty years8 near twice
 that time      ,to train eight         
children--a work sublime4      ,the     
first--six years old--she has gone2     
,emma found a heavenly home4      ,all  
the others1 ,i must show1      ,put     
grammar in this book4 ,you know         
,upon the slightest call from me1       
,they spelled or wrote as it should be4 
,quite trusty places they now hold1     
,and all are worth their weight in gold4
      ,twenty years thus we did spend1  

,until this book has come to end4       
,,garment ,,cutting                     
,,in ,,the                              
,,twentieth ,,century4                  
,,consisting ,,of ,a ,,series ,,of      
,,articles ,,on                         
,,garment                               
,,cutting                               
,,and ,,making                          
,,with                                  
,,illustrations ,,by ,,diagrams1        
,,showing ,,the ,,commencing ,,point    
,,at ,,the ,,center ,,of ,a ,,circle    
,,in ,,general1                         
,,and ,,radiating ,,on ,,especial       
,,angles ,,of         #ace1 #abj1 #ij1  
#fj1 #de1 #cj1 #bb1 #bj1 #ae1 #aj1 #g1  
#e1 #b1 ,etc41           ,,but ,,more   
,,especially ,,two ,,angles ,,of        
,,fifteen ,,degrees ,,each1             
,,joined ,,at ,,their ,,widest ,,end4   
,,all ,,rights ,,reserved ,,by          
,g,,nther ,f4 ,,hertzer1                
,,author1                               
,,tiffin1 ,,ohio4                       

,,copyrighted #ahib4                    
,,the ,b4 ,f4 ,,wade ,,co41 ,,printers1 
,,toledo4          ,illustration        
,,preface4      ,nothing is claimed in  
this book pertaining to ,styles of      
,fashions4 ,it  is true the fashionable 
parts of all the diagrams are taken from
 the  latest ,fashion ,reports2 but     
these will not last1 and consequently   
the  fashionable part is of little      
value4 ,what ,i claim of my own work is 
the  ,,bases1 which must be considered  
permanent1 and from which all changes   
must be made for different styles1 or   
for abnormal forms4 ,the principle  laid
 down in this work1 is3 ,to fit the form
 of men1 making the change  of fashions 
to conform to the fit4 ,the ,bases ,i   
have adopted are new1  in the science of
 ,,garment-,,cutting1 and all           
calculations are based upon  horizontal1
 perpendicular and parallel measures and
 lines4 ,the slope of  each shoulder1 as
 #bb deg41 is taken as a ,base for a    
garment worn around  the neck and       

shoulders1 and the garments built       
downward from that ,base4    ,all ,bases
 are clearly defined by illustrations   
and description2 and  all gores cut out1
 or wedges put in1 either natural or    
artificial1 are  minutely described     
according to the spreads or hollows of  
the body4 ,the  illustrations or        
diagrams are given both from a corner of
 a square1 and  from the center of a    
circle1 with the same result4    ,i know
 that1 after the publication of this    
work1 some men will hew off  some rough 
corners1 and give it more polish2 but   
this is the case with  all inventions   
and new things1 and ,i do not expect to 
be exempt from that  rule4 ,in fact1 ,i 
know that this work is incomplete2 but  
,i can leave it  to future time1 either 
through myself or others1 to take up the
 thread  where ,i leave it at present1  
to unravel any mysteries that may yet be
  hidden4 ,but the ,bases and their     
application will remain1 and will be so 
used in the twentieth century and       

thereafter1 as long as clothing is worn 
and men retain their present general    
form4 ,some will no doubt say that      
certain of my methods cost extra study1 
all of which ,i admit2 but cutting  and 
making garments have been1 are now1 and 
always will be1 a study2  and so far1 no
 man's life has been long enough1 and   
likely no man's  life hereafter will be 
long enough1 to complete it4 ,this work 
indicates  the right direction for      
study1 and does not allow the cutter's  
nor the  tailor's brain to become       
dormant4 ,my experience is this3 ,better
 study  one extra hour over a garment   
than spend a whole day in altering it4  
,the ,merchant ,tailor's success depends
 upon one thing only1 viz43 ,how he     
succeeds in pleasing his customers4     
,some cutters will ask for something    
definite in the shape of a new system2  
something that requires no study  nor   
constant watching4 ,to such let me say  
this3 ,whenever an infallible  system of
 garment-cutting is to be invented1 it  

must be something like a  machine1 which
 always does the same thing with the    
same result4 ,such an  invention cannot 
be acceptable so long as the fashions   
and the styles are  constantly changing4
 ,if1 however1 such a machine could     
become acceptable1  the occupation of   
,custom ,cutters would be 8forever      
lost40 ,nothing of  this kind is claimed
 in this work1 but this ,i do claim3    
that it is  better and more practical1  
and far more comprehensive1 than        
anything  heretofore known4 ,neither do 
,i claim that it will work equally well 
in  the hands of every cutter1 because  
no machine will work well unless        
directed and supervised by a skillful   
operator--one who knows every detail  of
 its construction1 and attends to it    
carefully4    ,i call this work a       
scientific calculation within both the  
square and  compass4 ,but ,i do not     
claim any knowledge of science1 nor even
 of  geometry1 except perhaps what may  
be called 8home-made40 ,what little ,i  

know about geometry1 ,i learned after ,i
 became forty-five years of age1  and   
had begun to jot down my experience4    
,neither do ,i claim to be a  ,fancy    
,cutter2 ,i do not even claim to be a   
,fancy ,tailor2 nor do ,i believe  that 
,i ever was cut out to be a tailor4 ,but
 somehow ,i started to learn  the trade1
 and when ,i was once at it1 ,i made up 
my mind to learn it as  well as anybody1
 even if it took me a few years longer  
perhaps than some  others4 ,yet all of  
this is no reason why ,i should not be  
able to make a  better survey of the    
human form than any other man has done  
so far2 and  in fact anyone1 not a      
tailor1 could have done so if his       
interest had been  directed that way4   
,it is a fact that the sewing machine   
was not invented1  nor perfected1 by    
tailors4 ,it was accomplished by others1
 who knew  nothing of tailoring1 but    
they learned to make one good stitch in 
a quick  way1 and that was all4    ,i   
have been on the bench and cutting-board

 forty-four years1 and ,i do  claim that
 ,i have observed and learned something 
in that time which is  worth while to   
preserve1 and ,i have written it in     
language so plain that  all tailors may 
understand4 ,in #ahgh ,i began to jot   
down my experience1  illustrating       
everything by diagrams1 and have up to  
this time written  and illustrated each 
year two books like this1 all of which  
,i have  in my possession and intend to 
preserve4 ,i presume ,i could write ten 
years longer without exhausting the     
subject2 but ,i feel the weight of      
fifty-nine years upon my shoulders and  
have come to the conclusion that  ,i    
must clear away all old rubbish and     
publish what ,i know is reliable4  ,this
 volume is the result4 ,for the last ten
 years ,i have been carrying on  a      
,merchant ,tailoring business for the   
purpose of testing every garment  which 
,i cut4 ,any new idea that came to my   
mind ,i carried out by making a  garment
 accordingly2 and if ,i was wrong1 and  

made a misfit1 ,i made the  necessary   
alteration4 ,i could do this because ,i 
had no 8boss0 to curse  me--,i was my   
own 8boss0 and ,i paid for the music4   
,the above remarks are made to show that
 this work is not a mushroom idea1  but 
based upon the experience of nearly half
 a century4 ,for the reason  that this  
century is nearly ended1 and that1 at   
best1 this work will  not be generally  
known1 until the next century1 ,i have  
named it ,,garment  ,,cutting ,,in ,,the
 ,,twentieth ,,century4 ,if any one     
doubts that ,i have been  working for   
years to prepare this work1 let him look
 up the 8,american  ,tailor0 of         
,december1 #ahhc1 and ,november1 #ahhf1 
or the records of the  ,patent ,office  
in ,washington for #ahgh4    ,i will    
here say that this book has been written
 between working hours1 or  at odd      
hours1 or days when ,i had the time to  
spare1 and that from time to  time the  
manuscript had to be changed as well as 
the diagrams1 and then  revised again4  

,this has been the case from #ahgh down 
to the present time4  ,i do not wish to 
convey the idea to any one1 that the    
,bases1 as laid down  in this work1 were
 caught on to in one great lump and that
 this work is  the result of the        
grasping of one great idea4 ,when about 
eighteen years  of age1 ,i came to the  
conclusion that no system of            
garment-cutting1 then  existing1 had an 
intelligible ,base to work from1 and    
that all so-called  ,bases were nothing 
but imaginary lines1 to suit this or    
that cutter's  fancy1 and this is the   
case to-day4 ,that being my conclusion1 
,i tried to  find something on which ,i 
might have a better hold4    ,like      
,columbus1 ,i had an idea that there was
 something beyond1 but had  no          
conception of its form4 ,of geometry ,i 
knew nothing1 except1 that 8a  square is
 an angle of ninety degrees1 or the     
fourth part of a circle10  but ,i found 
that ,i was helpless without geometry1  
and1 at so late a day  for me1 ,i had to

 roll up my sleeves1 as it were1 and    
learn at least  enough of geometry as   
this work requires4 7,who will throw the
 first stone  at my ignorance87 ,after  
,i was able to divide the circle1 the   
,bases1  as laid down in this work1 were
 gradually adopted1 one by one1 and so  
arranged that they harmonize with the   
slopes of the body4 ,i have a hold  now1
 and ,i can always tell whence ,i came1 
and whither ,i am going4 ,i have  a     
starting point at the center of a       
circle1 ,i can tell that ,i sink my     
shoulders twenty-two and a half degrees2
 that the center of back and the  center
 of front rest on one angle of one      
hundred and thirty-five degrees2  that  
the front of armhole is forty-five      
degrees from the front1 etc42  all of   
which may be understood by the whole    
civilized world4 ,and if some  cutters  
and tailors do not understand it1 they  
can learn it in a few  hours1 and can   
learn it as quickly as they can any     
other rule4    ,it may be asked1 can    

such angles always be drawn correctly8  
to which ,i  will answer3 ,no1 not      
always2 but it serves the purpose4 ,our 
grocer never  sells us an actual pound  
of coffee1 nor does our dry goods dealer
 sell us  an actual yard of calico1 but 
what they sell us is as near as they can
  come--it serves the purpose1 and      
everybody is satisfied4 ,the variations 
of  the lines from the center of a      
circle are not greater than are the     
right  angles from a square or from a   
straight line4    ,i have been advised  
to write this book as though it were    
written by  a person residing in a large
 city1 but ,i do not deceive any one1   
and  admit that at the present time     
8,tiffin0 has only about twelve thousand
  inhabitants1 but that it is located in
 the big ,state of ,ohio1 and that      
,tiffin has more natural 8gas0 than ,new
 ,york and ,chicago together4 ,i do     
anticipate the question1 8,how much     
knowledge may come from a small city    
like ,tiffin80 but ,i console myself    

with the fact that a like question1     
8,what good can come out of ,nazareth80 
was asked two thousand years ago1  and  
it has been answered in favor of that   
little village1 and to-day  these       
questioners are regarded as a set of    
conceited asses4    ,advanced ideas do  
not necessarily come from large cities1 
or come to a  focus there4 ,moses1 the  
great law giver1 caught his inspiration 
while  among his flocks2 and so did the 
poet1 ,king ,david4 ,st4 ,john1 the     
,baptist1  and ,christ himself took to  
solitude in the wilderness before       
entering  upon their mission4 ,st4      
,john1 the evangelist1 wrote his        
,revelations on  the lonely island of   
,patmos4 ,dr4 ,luther formed his        
reformatory ideas  within the walls of a
 cloister4 ,the great emancipator1      
,abraham ,lincoln1  no doubt caught some
 of his ideas while working on a flat   
boat1 or while  splitting rails4 ,in the
 face of such facts1 ,i do not see why a
 common  tailor1 living and working in a

 small city1 cannot have some advanced  
ideas about ,,garment ,,cutting1 even if
 they are written down without a        
perfect knowledge of ,english grammar4  
,i was born in the village of           
,niederwillingen1 in the ,principality  
of  ,schwartzburg1 ,sondershausen1      
,germany1 on the #ajth day of ,april1   
,a4 ,d4  #ahcc4 ,i received a good      
common school education4 ,in the spring 
of #ahdh1  when the revolutionary       
cannons were shaking ,germany for       
freedom1 ,i was  sold as a slave        
7apprenticed7 for three years to learn  
the tailor's  trade1 and came to        
,america on the #agth day of ,september1
 #aheb1 then but  nineteen and one half 
years old1 and have never had any       
schooling in the  ,english              
language1--but what ,i know ,i have     
picked up here and there1 in  the       
tailor's shops1 stores1 lodges and      
churches4 ,for this reason1 this  book  
may contain words which might have been 
different1 but it is written  plainly1  

and in such terms that tailors and      
cutters will comprehend4    ,during the 
year #ahia ,i have worked mostly on this
 book1 comparing  diagrams and writings1
 and changing anything that ,i thought  
would improve  it4 ,but ,i find that if 
,i keep on comparing and trying1 ,i     
shall never be  done1 for ,i always find
 something else to write4 ,a little over
 a year  ago1 ,i thought ,i would go to 
work and cut it shorter1 the manuscript 
then  having about fifty thousand words1
 and now it contains about one hundred  
and twenty thousand words4 ,this is the 
way ,i have cut it shorter4 ,but  ,i do 
not see what ,i could strike out again1 
even if ,i should make the  attempt4    
,g4 ,f4 ,,hertzer4    ,,tiffin1 ,,ohio1 
,,march #b;,d1 #ahib4    ,illustration  
,illustration          ,,scales ,,and   
,,measures4      ,all dimensions mean   
numbers of the scale1 unless specially  
called inches  or referring to the size4
    ,all scales are one-half breast or  
one-half seat1 and two and one-half     

inches1 divided into twenty even parts4 
,the two and one-half inches  addition  
to the one-half breast or seat measure  
makes the small sizes  large enough and 
the large sizes small enough for all    
purposes4    ,take the breast measure   
over the vest for both undercoat and    
vest4    ,the circumference measure of  
the breast and seat must be taken       
tightly  over the vest and pants4 ,the  
breast measure is to be taken with the  
tape  touching the extreme point of the 
shoulder blade1 with the lungs empty4   
,the seat measure must be taken over the
 largest part of the seat1 which  is    
about three to three and a quarter above
 the fork or junction of the  legs4     
,the half coat as well as the half pants
 take up about one and a fourth  inches 
for seams1 leaving about one and a      
fourth inches slack for other  purposes 
on the half garment4 ,this measure is to
 be taken with a small  tape1 and all   
the diagrams are calculated accordingly4
    ,in taking a measure around the     

human form1 there will be found a       
difference of from one and one-half to  
two inches between a narrow tape  and a 
strip of cloth ten inches wide4 ,the    
narrow tape cuts deeper into  the flesh1
 and therefore will record less surface 
measure than a strip of  cloth ten      
inches wide4 ,if we take a narrow tape  
and a strip of goods1 say  ten inches   
wide1 and with both measure over the    
seat or chest1 drawing  one as tightly  
as the other1 we will find that the     
broad strip will  record about one and a
 half inches more on the whole          
circumference4 ,now1  if the broad      
measure gives three-fourths of an inch  
more over the half  breast than the     
narrow tape1 then it follows that1 after
 sewing seams1  there will be left half 
an inch on the half frock coat only for 
expansion  of the lungs and the         
movements of the arms4    ,the same is  
true of the pants1 and though they      
require nothing for  expansion of lungs 
or movement of the arms1 yet it requires

 a certain  space for expansion while   
sitting1 for it will be found while a   
person  is in that position his seat1   
hips and waist will expand anywhere from
  one to five inches1 but the waist will
 expand the most4 ,the seat1 hips  and  
waist require their circumference       
measure while sitting--nothing more  nor
 less--and1 consequently1 seams must be 
added to that measure1 and must  be     
applied at the point which ,i have      
termed 8the seat line10 as shown in     
,dia4 ,,xiv41 and on the back on the    
upper line4 ,if stitches are drawn in1  
on that line1 it will be found that when
 the pants are on the body said  line is
 a horizontal one all around1 and at the
 largest part of the seat4    ,a large  
and fleshy person1 particularly one with
 an extra large abdomen1  cannot be     
fitted with the old maxim1 viz43 ,make  
the half-waist one-half  the measure and
 add three-fourths of an inch4 ,this    
usually holds good as  to persons with  
small waists1 who do not spread much in 

sitting1 but when  a large-waisted      
person1 who perhaps weighs #bej to #cjj 
pounds1 assumes  such a position1 his   
legs will press his stomach upward1     
decreasing it  in length and expanding  
it in circumference4 ,there may be      
persons with  sole-leather stomachs who 
can stand any pressure for a short time1
 or  while taking a meal1 but when      
compelled to sit most of the time1 they 
want their pants large enough to be     
comfortable while in that position4  ,it
 is true1 such pants must hang loosely  
while standing1 and must be  supported  
by suspenders1 but this difficulty      
cannot be overcome4    ,this work takes 
the seat measure as a guide to select a 
scale1 no matter  if the hips are larger
 or smaller than the seat2 nor if the   
waist and  hips are larger than the     
seat1 proper allowance must be made     
there4 ,and  it should be observed here 
that whenever the hip measure is larger 
than  the seat measure1 it may be       
concluded at once that said large hip   

measure  is caused by the unusually     
large abdomen directly in front4    ,in 
regard to the taking of measures close  
or tight1 the following must  be        
observed3 ,a person may be measured over
 the breast very close1 like  a stove   
pipe1 and will not object to that       
pressure1 for it lasts only  a short    
time2 but subject him to that pressure  
for five minutes and he  will not endure
 it4 ,he cannot endure it1 and the      
pressure would be  still more           
intolerable if the tape should be ten   
inches wide4 ,it is very  important for 
the cutter to know what he is measuring1
 and with what  he is measuring4 ,old   
and experienced cutters have learned    
this at much  cost1 therefore young     
cutters should be told this in the      
beginning4 ,young  cutters should be    
instructed to always request their      
customers to remove  their coats at the 
time of measuring1 and take the breast  
and waist  measure from behind1 because 
the breadth of the two will not always  

agree4    ,to obtain satisfactory length
 of sleeve is often a difficult job4    
,there  is the style1 then the notion of
 the cutter1 then the notion of the     
customer1 and lastly the notions of the 
wife1 mother and aunt--all of  which    
frequently have a word to say in the    
end4 ,therefore the best of  cutters are
 often obliged to alter the sleeve      
length4 ,the young cutter  should locate
 for himself a permanent mark at the    
wrist1 so that he is  able to take such 
measure always the same1 and whenever he
 finds that his  sleeves become too long
 or too short1 he can readily make the  
necessary  change in measuring4 ,but to 
obtain a thoroughly satisfactory sleeve 
length1 the cutter must know at what    
point to transfer the measure to the    
cloth4 ,different systems produce       
different sleeves1 and the seams are    
located differently4 ,the sleeve1 as    
given in this work1 has its centre at   
eight on the back1 and there the sleeve 
length must be transferred1 no  matter  

where the seam is located2 for if the   
back sleeve seam is further  down1 and  
the sleeve length is transferred at the 
seam1 then the sleeve  will become too  
long1 and vice versa4    ,the angle of  
one hundred and thirty-five degrees1 cut
 from a piece of  pasteboard or tin1 and
 as large as both shoulders1 is a very  
important  measure1 and should be       
applied as shown in ,fig4 ,i4 ,i do not 
claim that  this measure can always be  
taken exact even over a good-fitting    
coat1  but it can be taken with as much 
certainty as the breast measure1 and it 
serves the purpose4    ,to measure the  
slope of the shoulders1 the angle must  
be adjusted at the  highest points of   
both arms at the side of the shoulders1 
and if the  sides of the neck extend up 
higher1 or lower1 that amount is to be  
noted  down1 and it will be found that  
only extreme cases require alterations4 
,extreme cases1 and ,i should call all  
such in which the difference is         
three-quarters higher1 as on low        

shoulders1 or that much lower1 as on    
high or square shoulders4 ,no attention 
is to be paid to the variation1  if it  
is only one-quarter inch more or less1  
as in fact the sides of the  shoulders1 
at the arms1 are not to be fitted as    
close as the body itself  indicates4 ,it
 may not be out of place to mention here
 how to draw that  angle of one hundred 
and thirty-five degrees1 for it is a new
 measure and  an unknown quantity to the
 great majority of cutters at present3  
,form a right angle2 from its point draw
 a circle as large as you can1  and form
 two points1 as shown in ,dias4 ,,xi and
 ,,xii2 draw a line from  the starting  
point to the second point of the circle1
 which will make  one angle of one      
hundred and twenty degrees1 to which is 
added fifteen  degrees in front1 to make
 the angle of one hundred and           
thirty-five  degrees4 ,the fifteen      
degrees are two lines spread one-quarter
 of their  length1 as a part of a circle
 twenty inches long and five inches     

wide4  ,the angle of one hundred and    
thirty-five degrees is also one square1 
and one-half square1 and may be found as
 follows3 ,from the center of  back and 
through the starting point draw a right 
angle1 as shown by  the front sleeve    
bases in all the diagrams1 and on that  
line1 go down1  and square across and   
forward at equal distances1 say twenty  
inches1  and through that point draw the
 front line of the angle of one hundred 
and thirty-five degrees4 ,forming a     
right angle1 and marking each line  at  
equal distances1 and drawing a line     
through said equally distant  points1 is
 equal to cutting a square in two from  
point to point1 and  consequently1 said 
points will form an angle of forty-five 
degrees4 ,the  square contains ninety   
degrees1 and the half square contains   
forty-five  degrees1 and the whole of it
 is one hundred and thirty-five degrees4
  7,see ,dia4 ,,ii-,a47 ,in all cases   
where an angle is to be found1 the      
dimensions should be taken on a large   

scale1 because on a large scale the     
variations are less than on a small     
scale4    ,the form of ,dia4 ,i is      
correct1 and may be used as an          
instrument to  measure all shoulders1   
and the edges of the angle should not be
 less  than eight inches and may be     
drawn out more4 ,it should be large     
enough  to reach over both shoulders of 
a full grown person4 ,the application   
and  the use of said angle of one       
hundred and thirty-five degrees is fully
  described elsewhere4    ,how to make a
 scale3 ,take one half breast measure   
and two and one-half  inches1 in all    
cases1 and divide the result into twenty
 equal parts4  ,the common inch will    
produce a breast size of thirty-five1   
and the  same for the seat size4        
,seventeen and a half inches is one-half
 of  thirty-five1 and the two and       
one-half inches make the twenty units   
for  size thirty-five4    ,to make the  
larger or smaller scales3 ,take the     
half-breast and two and  one-half       

inches2 mark the half1 the quarter1 and 
the three-quarters of  it1 and divide   
each quarter into five equal parts with 
a compass1 and  then divide each unit   
into halves1 quarters and eighths4 ,a   
cutter should  always know just what his
 scale contains1 and should in all cases
 be able  to make his own scales4       
,the use of fractional scales is not    
necessary4 ,if the measure indicates  a 
somewhat larger size1 say thirty-six and
 a half1 take a scale of  thirty-six for
 a short person1 and do not cut away the
 chalkmarks in  width4 ,if the person is
 tall1 take a thirty-seven scale and cut
 away all  the chalkmarks in width4     
,ordinarily1 make small chalkmarks and  
cut them  through in the center4        
,material which requires large seams    
should also  be cut on the outside of   
the chalkmarks4 ,it is an easy matter to
 cut a  garment one-half size larger or 
smaller1 without using fractional       
scales4    ,a set of scales will        
accompany each copy of this work2 but   

any graduated  set of scales can be     
used4 ,all we have to do is to select a 
scale which  contains one-half breast   
and two and a half inches1 in twenty    
units4  ,such selection may result in a 
fractional scale by some1 but it can be 
used4 ,there is no other system in      
existence by which a forcing scale can  
be used1 and give satisfactory results4 
7,see article on 8,scientific           
,calculations407    ,illustration       
,illustration          ,,pants4         
,scale3 ,one-half seat measure and two  
and a half inches1 divided into  twenty 
parts4 ,form an angle of seven and a    
half degrees1 and mark it ten  numbers  
wide1 at a length of eighty numbers1 or 
one-eighth of its entire  length4--,the 
angle of seven and a half degrees has a 
width of one-eighth  of its length4 ,at 
the top of said angle1 or at the width  
of ten numbers1  start the top of pants1
 and go downward ten numbers for the    
fork or  crotch1 and continue downward a
 distance of thirty-two numbers from the

  top2 again mark eight numbers from the
 top1 or two numbers above the  crotch2 
at the points eight and thirty-two is an
 even division for the  purpose of      
dividing the angle of seven and a half  
degrees into three  equal parts1 or two 
and a half degrees each2 at eight go    
sidewise three1  six and nine1 and      
forward three2 at thirty-two go sidewise
 two1 four  and six1 and forward two2   
strike lines through two and three1 four
 and  six1 and six and nine sidewise1   
and through two and three forward4 ,each
  line will represent an angle of two   
and a half degrees4 ,except for equal   
divisions1 points eight and thirty-two  
have nothing of importance about  them1 
neither has the line through four and   
six1 which is also only an  even        
division of the angle of seven and a    
half degrees in three equal  parts2 but 
it will be seen that the angle of seven 
and a half degrees  spreads one-eighth  
of its length2 consequently it contracts
 one inch in  eight1 and four inches in 

thirty-two2 hence the width of the angle
 of  seven and a half degrees is six    
inches at a length of thirty-two        
whenever  it is ten inches at the       
starting point4    ,the front line of   
the angle of seven and one-half degrees 
,i use as a base  to work from1 but     
either one of the other lines would be  
just as suitable  a base1 particularly  
the line from two and three sidewise1   
which is to be  the center line of the  
pants leg1 and from which line a right  
angle each  way will be nearer          
horizontal than any other right angle1  
when the pants  are on the body4        
,consequently it is a good line to      
square from for both  a level top and a 
level bottom2 but for reasons hereafter 
explained1 it  is not a sure line to    
square from to nick the seams when the  
foreparts  are cut smaller and the backs
 wider2 in fact1 no square line is sure 
for  that purpose4 ,but a sweep from the
 point of the angle of seven and a half 
degrees will make true connections at   

any point1 no matter how narrow the     
front or how wide the back may be1 or if
 both be even4    ,after having formed  
the angle of seven and a half degrees1  
and having it  divided into three equal 
parts 7or in two and a half degrees     
each71 two  and a half degrees1 or one  
part1 is placed in front of the angle of
 seven  and a half degrees for the      
crotch or fork4 ,the seven and a half   
degrees  furnish the outside of the     
pants leg--that is1 one front1 one side1
 and  one back1 except a small fraction 
of say three-quarters1 which is thrown  
forward on the top of the front of      
waist1 and is further explained         
elsewhere4    ,the top and the front    
edge of all pants is about one-eighth of
 the whole  waist measure1 taken close4 
,but if the question should be asked why
 it is  one-eighth of the close whole   
waist measure1 ,i must say that ,i can  
not  give any other reason than that it 
has proven true in years of practice4   
,the angle of two and a half degrees    

forms the crotch1 to which is  added    
about one and a quarter for dress and   
extra straddle--as shown in  the        
diagram4 ,the angle of seven and a half 
degrees1 with a width of  one-fourth    
seat and one and a fourth inches1 or ten
 numbers1 at the top  of waist1 will    
produce three-fourths of one leg2 and   
the angle of two  and a half degrees    
added to the angle of seven and a half  
degrees will  produce the fourth        
quarter1 or enough to cover and to fit  
one leg1 the  whole being one angle of  
ten degrees4    ,whatever fashion1 or   
notion1 or a larger boot or shoe1 may   
require  further at the bottom1 must be 
allowed equally on each side and inside2
  and again1 whatever the forepart may  
be decreased1 must be allowed on  the   
back4 ,or1 in other words1 the seams are
 not placed in the center of  either the
 outside or the inside1 but more to the 
front4    ,the angle of seven and a half
 degrees forms the top of the side on a 
straight line1 and the back has from one

 to one and a half inches gore  cut in  
its center4 ,this gore1 however1 may be 
better divided into two  small ones--one
 in the middle of the back and the other
 at the side  seam4 ,the back is sloped 
off fifteen degrees from the seat line  
upward1  as shown in the diagram4 ,the  
width of the angle of fifteen degrees is
  one-fourth of its length1 and to draw 
it1 go up ten numbers and sidewise  two 
and a half numbers4 ,three and a fourth 
numbers above the crotch is  the        
so-called seat line1 from which point   
the top of the back is sloped  off      
fifteen degrees4 ,the seat line1 as     
shown in ,dia4 ,,xiv1 is a horizontal   
line over the largest part of the seat  
when the pants are on the body1  and    
there the seat measure must be taken4   
,it must be taken as tightly as  you    
would measure a stove pipe1 or else the 
pants will become too large4    ,the    
angle of seven and a half degrees1 with 
its width of ten at the top  of the     
waist and the back slope of fifteen     

degrees taken off1 and the  back seam   
formed as shown in the diagrams1 will   
produce the two seat  lines about       
nineteen and one-half numbers for the   
dress side1 of which  must be used about
 one and one-quarter inches for all     
seams1 leaving  three quarter inches for
 extra width over the seat for the half 
pants1  which is enough4    ,elsewhere  
it is explained why a narrow tape will  
record a shorter measure  around the    
fleshy parts of a person than a broad   
strip of cloth1 say ten  inches wide4   
,it should also be observed that a broad
 strip of material1  drawn around the   
seat while standing1 will record1 say   
about one and  one-half inches more than
 a narrow tape half an inch wide1 both  
being  drawn with the same strain4 ,when
 a person is sitting1 the length of  the
 abdomen contracts1 but increases in    
circumference1 and may expand  anywhere 
from one inch1 in a person of light     
build1 to five inches in  one that is   
quite fleshy4 ,therefore1 while in a    

sitting position is the  time to make a 
correct circumference measure over the  
seat as far as  such a measure can be   
taken1 or as far as a correct measure is
 actually  necessary for cutting a      
garment4 ,this measure1 if transferred  
to the seat  line1 requires no allowance
 except for seams4 ,when a person       
assumes a  sitting position1 his entire 
body is on a strain4 ,the seat and      
abdomen  grows very rigid1 and in this  
condition a more correct measure may be 
taken with a narrow tape4 ,if a pair of 
pants should be made up as large  as    
such a measure1 it will be large enough 
for a close fit1 providing all  other   
parts are correct4 ,there is no question
 but that a trifle surplus  cloth at    
this point1 allowed at the side1 will be
 quite in its place1  and will never    
come amiss1 but instead contribute to   
the comfort of the  wearer4    ,by      
taking into consideration the sitting or
 standing position of the  body1 in     
connection with the circumference       

measure of the seat1 it is  absolutely  
necessary that the location of the seat 
line be positively  known when the      
garment is apart and spread upon a flat 
table1 like a  pattern4 ,always bear in 
mind that the seat line in front will be
 three  and a fourth numbers above the  
point of the crotch and about two and a 
half numbers higher on the back1 or     
whatever the spread of the angle of     
fifteen degrees across the back may be4 
,when the pants are on the body1  this  
extra length in the back of the pants   
will be taken up in winding  around the 
seat1 and pushing backward and downward 
with the seat2 and  whatever that takes 
up must be allowed again on top1 as     
shown in ,dia4  ,,xix1 or must be       
obtained from below1 as shown in ,dia4  
,,xiv1 which shows  the true length as  
far as necessary4 ,but another inch may 
be added to  the length on the top of   
the back1 in order to make the back that
 much  higher than the front when on the
 body4 ,in ,dia4 ,,xx1 this extra height

  of the back is four numbers1 and is a 
permanent thing1 even if a larger  waist
 requires the front to be higher4       
,raising the top of the front for a     
large-waisted pants is caused by the    
same principle as raising the top of    
the back1 only less prominent4 ,as the  
seat requires extra length behind1  so  
does a larger abdomen directly in front 
require extra length4 ,hence1           
large-waisted pants require some extra  
width at the top of the side in  order  
to throw the fore-part forward and      
downward1 forming a curve over  the     
front of the abdomen2 and1 that length  
being supplied from the top  of the     
front1 the same must be allowed again   
from where it was taken4  ,by extra     
width on the top of the side1 ,i mean an
 extra width outside of  the angle of   
seven and a half degrees1 which is to be
 the portion thrown  forward1 and need  
not in any case be more than an inch4   
,the same amount  is enough for the     
extra length on the top of the front4   

,to regulate the waist of pants1 it is  
necessary that the waist must be  made  
as wide as the measure indicates when   
the person is sitting1 and it  may even 
be wider if a customer so desires4 ,some
 individuals are very  sensitive around 
the waist1 and for such pants it will be
 better that  they be two inches too    
large there1 than half an inch too      
small1 or even  a close fit4 ,in no case
 should an extra waist proportion be    
allowed  behind1 unless it is to be     
buckled up or to hang loose2 for if it  
is to  be used to supply the waist      
proportion in front1 it must necessarily
 be  drawn forward1 consequently will   
wrinkle the whole pants1 and may produce
  tightness in the crotch4 ,surplus     
waist may be allowed behind1 as long  as
 it remains under the buckle strap1 and 
such surplus will buckle up  straight4  
,but if surplus cloth is allowed in     
front or at the side1 and  is drawn     
backward under the buckle strap1 it will
 draw wrinkles across  the seat4 ,pants 

too loose at the front or at the side   
may be all right as  long as the wearer 
will carry them on his suspenders4      
,the angle of seven and one-half        
degrees1 with the back sloped off       
fifteen  degrees1 and three-quarters    
allowed in front1 must be considered a  
permanent thing1 and within that space  
and along and around the hollow of  the 
back of the waist1 all surplus must be  
cut away in one or two gores1  according
 to the measure taken in a sitting      
position4 ,surplus waist  proportion is 
best allowed by a spring within the back
 gore1 as shown in  ,dia4 ,,xxi1 which  
will remain where it is cut and can not 
be drawn backward  under the buckle     
strap4    ,pants can usually be worn    
pretty close at the soft1 or hollow part
 of the  waist1 but they must be plenty 
large as soon as they come in contact   
with  the short ribs1 and such width    
must be at the sides1 as shown in ,dia4 
,,xxi4 ,now1 if the waist requires more1
 that amount must be divided into  three

 equal parts1 one part being added to   
the front and two parts to the  side2 so
 that when the pants are on the body1   
the whole will be equally  divided1--one
 part in front1 one part on the left    
side1 and one part on  the right4 ,the  
waist1 when it grows large1 expands     
forward and sidewise1  and extra waist  
proportion must be supplied accordingly4
    ,the center line of the angle of ten
 degrees should be perhaps more fully   
explained4 ,said center line runs on and
 along the whole center of the  leg when
 the garment is upon the body1 unless1  
by some miscalculation  it is drawn out 
of shape4 ,from this line all bottoms   
and tops of the  fore-part may be       
squared1 and from it the top and front  
of the fore-part  is one-eighth waist1  
actual measure4 ,it forms the crease    
line1 and from  it the bottom is made an
 equal distance on each side4 ,the knee 
also is  formed from it as a center4    
,but as the inside of the leg is a      
straight  line and the outside of the   

leg is hollow at the knee1 it follows   
that1  for a close-fitting pants leg at 
the knee1 the outside first requires  a 
reduction of say three-eighths to       
one-half an inch1 on double cloth1      
which again is allowed at the inside1   
after which the width may be  reduced   
equally on each side1 if such reduction 
is necessary4    ,the angle of seven and
 a half degrees runs in slope with the  
leg1 though  on a perfectly straight    
line1 and if the pants leg is to be     
shaped in  accordance with the shape of 
the leg1 as it must be if a close fit is
  desired1 then wherever the leg has a  
hollow the garment must be reduced1  and
 wherever the leg has a swell the pants 
also must be enlarged4 ,this  is the    
case with all legs4 ,the side of the    
knee should be hollowed out1  while at  
the calf the side seam must run outward4
 ,if the person be  8bow-legged10 then  
the outside must receive more cloth and 
the inside  less1 if the form of the leg
 is to be followed2 but1 as a general   

thing1  bow legs in pants should be so  
formed that the inside is pretty full1  
in order to hide such a deformity4      
,so-called 8knock knees0 require more   
cloth on the inside of the knee1 and    
therefore more must be taken from  the  
outside4 ,knock knees are not so much a 
deformity as bow legs1 and  such pants  
legs may be cut and made according to   
the shape of the leg4    ,there is one  
more bend in the leg which requires     
mentioning here1 and  that is the knee  
itself4 ,a close-fitting pants must have
 the shape of the  side of the leg and  
the shape of the knee in front as well4 
,if the pants  leg is not cut or worked 
according to the knee1 the knee itself  
will  work it out by stretching the     
front or wrinkling the back4 ,by fulling
  the fore part one-fourth to           
three-eighths of an inch over the knee1 
and  8fulling0 the same on both seams1  
the whole difficulty will be overcome4  
,or1 what is still better1 stretch the  
back that much4 ,if this is to be  done 

correctly1 it must not be left to the   
sweet will of the pants makers  to      
stretch or shrink as much as they please
 or where they please1 but  everything  
must be distinctly notched1 say five    
inches above and five  inches below the 
knee4    ,this is also true when you cut
 spring bottoms4 ,spring bottoms have   
come  and gone regularly for the past   
forty years1 and they will soon come    
again1 and when they come again some    
cutter or tailor will be glad to  know  
something about them4 ,when spring      
bottoms were first introduced  they were
 made with a piece or wedge set in the  
center of the fore part1  on the same   
principle as leggings are made to-day1  
but it was soon  discovered that by     
allowing that wedge on each side of the 
back1 and by  stretching the sides of   
each fore part toward its center1 the   
side of  the fore part would spring     
forward1 and the wedge added at the side
 of  the back filled the vacancy at the 
stretched side4 ,if there could be a    

seam in the center of the fore part we  
would simply add say one-half to        
three-fourths more on each seam in      
front1 and the spring would be there2   
or if we could cut our fore part to a   
point at the bottom1 leaving the  whole 
width at the back1 the spring would also
 be there1 and all without  stretching  
or shrinking anything1 because the      
spring would be cut where  it belongs4  
,but style and economy of material      
require all seams to be at  the side1   
and for the reason that the spring must 
be worked toward the  center of the     
front1 all such fore parts must be as   
narrow as possible1  because a narrow   
fore part of six inches will stretch    
more easily than  a fore part of eight  
inches4 ,now1 in springing the bottom   
and forcing  both seams of the fore part
 forward as a spring1 all must be done  
by  stretching the sides of the fore    
part before the seams are sewed1 and in 
such manner that the fore parts will fit
 into the spring on the back4  ,it will 

be of no practical use to do the        
stretching at the sides but a  part of  
the way1 and attempting to force the    
spring forward by shrinking  the center 
of the front1 as all such shrinking will
 return4 ,nor will it  do any good to   
hold the back full on the fore part1 and
 sew the seams1  and then attempt to    
stretch the fore part2 for1 even if the 
stretching  could be accomplished in    
this way1 the sewed-up seam would soon  
draw  back1 because a sewed seam1 and   
particularly a machine-sewed seam1 can  
be stretched but very little1 and if it 
does stretch will soon return to  its   
former condition4 ,the stretching of the
 side of the fore-part must  also be    
alike on both sides1 as well as alike on
 both legs1 or else the  springs will   
not run in the same direction2 or they  
may not spring to the  center of the    
foot1 but to one or the other side4 ,the
 stretching must  also be done as far   
down as possible1 and must never be     
started higher  than about five inches  

above the bottoms1 all of which must be 
indicated  by correct nicks in the front
 and back4    ,all nicks1 and           
particularly on pants1 should be cut    
small and distinct4  ,it would be best  
to make just a small1 straight cut2 and 
the maker should  be required to put    
them together with the utmost precision1
 and not one  side a quarter of an inch 
up and the other a quarter of an inch   
down4  ,why ,i claim that the nicking   
and putting together are very particular
  features regarding pants1 for this    
reason3 ,all parts of pants are very    
long1 and while a small twist1 say in   
the sleeve of a coat1 may not show      
much1 the same twist will show plainly  
in a pants that is three times  as long4
 ,in order to convey a correct idea of  
what ,i mean by the term  8twist10 take 
a pants pattern and pin it together at  
each side of the  bottom1 then throw it 
out of gear1 say one-fourth of an inch  
at the hips1  and see what twist will be
 at the whole length4    ,now1 the      

foregoing points are figured down pretty
 close1 but figuring  on paper and      
practicing on garments are two different
 things4 ,fine  garment-cutting and     
making are something more than can be   
learned from  a multiplication table4   
,it requires a practical knowledge of   
what a  customer really requires1 and   
what he ought to have2 it also requires 
practical knowledge of the proportions  
of the different parts of a  garment4   
,it is1 for instance1 of little         
importance if a pants leg is  half an   
inch larger or smaller1 so long as the  
garment hangs nicely when  on the body1 
and the bottom corresponds with the knee
 and thigh1 and so  on--all of which is 
something that cannot be learned from   
the books4 ,if  a cutter is what may be 
termed a 8natural-born0 cutter1 all such
 things  will come to him2 but if he is 
not so gifted1 then he must train       
himself  to it1 and in no other way will
 he succeed as a cutter4    ,on top of  
front1 the pants diagrams are thrown    

forward from five-eighths  to two       
numbers4 ,persons who stand very erect1 
and have small waists1 have  enough if  
one-half is thrown out4 ,large waisted  
persons stand naturally  very erect1 and
 a form of forty-four seat1 and         
forty-six waist1 made up1  can be fitted
 with one and one-half1 while two       
numbers1 like ,dia4 ,,xx1 is  enough for
 forty-six seat and fifty waist1 made   
up4 ,forty seat1 forty  hip and forty   
waist1 made up1 can be fitted with one  
and one-fourth1 and  the same is true of
 thirty-seven seat and thirty-seven     
waist1 made up1  all such waists to have
 the angle of seven and one-half degrees
 complete  at the side1 or even one inch
 allowance1 as per ,dia4 ,,xx4 ,the gore
 in  the back is to be one inch at the  
top of fore-part and running out to     
nothing at the top of back1 and which   
may be called extra looseness1  but     
which can not be drawn backward under   
the buckle strap1 but will  remain at   
the side and prevent the waistband from 

striking the short ribs4    ,outlets on 
the waist of a pants would do more good 
if left on the top  of side1 running out
 to nothing at about line sixteen1 but  
the outlet1  if left on there1 requires 
too much work to let out1 and the outlet
  is usually left on behind4 ,when such 
a crotch must be let out1 the  back     
crotch seam from line sixteen upward1   
should be stretched upward  say         
one-quarter to one-half inch1 and the   
whole back seam1 above the  crotch      
should be stretched1 as much as         
possible1 and that may easily be        
stretched one full inch1 and the        
stretching should be done mostly at1 or 
near1 the seat line1 and as far sidewise
 as possible1 and if the seat is  lined 
and the lining is straight1 and will not
 stretch1 a wedge must be  put in the   
lining1 as shown on the outside of ,dia4
 ,,xviii4 ,the outside can  almost      
always be stretched any amount desired4 
,stretching the back thus1 the outlet1  
left behind1 will fall sidewise1  where 

it really belongs1 but when said outlet 
is simply let out behind1  it will      
remain behind1 and must be pulled       
forward1 and even if the pants  feel    
wide enough at the waist1 the wearer may
 not feel at home in them  when sitting 
down4 ,on the other hand1 when pants    
have too much seat1 but  not too much   
waist1 the best way is to rip up the    
side seam1 from line  sixteen upward1   
and stretch the side of the back1 say   
one inch1 and cut  it off on top1 all of
 which makes the seat shorter behind4   
,stretching  the side of the back upward
 from the side of the crotch is equal to
  cutting a larger gore between the     
front and back on top of side1 and      
allowing it behind4 ,if the pants are   
lined in the seat1 or all the way  down1
 a large fold should be laid in the back
 lining in place of cutting  it in as   
some do1 to imitate the gore1 or as     
others do1 who baste the  lining flat   
over the gore1 whereby the effect of    
that gore is destroyed4  ,in short1 all 

linings in the pants should be put in   
plenty large on both  back and front1   
both in width and in length1 on the same
 principle1 as  the lining in the back  
of coats is put in large4 ,the larger it
 is1 the  better it will be4 ,the       
outside of a pants mostly stretches1 but
 the  lining does not1 and often shrinks
 from the moisture of the body4    ,if  
we should cut two pairs of pants over   
the same pattern1 and make one  up with1
 and the other without lining1 we would 
find that the one without  lining feels 
the larger when on the body4 ,all pants 
lining should be cut  bias4    ,to shape
 the crotch seam ,dia4 ,,xiv should be  
observed1 especially when  the fore part
 is to be cut larger and the back that  
much smaller1 which  sometimes may be   
done to advantage1 and may enable the   
cutter to cut  the back without much    
piecing4 ,in the shape of ,dia4 ,,xiv   
the seam may be  thrown anywhere1       
without losing the balance4    ,some    
years ago1 ,mr4 ,j4 ,b4 ,west brought   

out what he termed a new style  of      
pants1 by cutting the front fork larger 
than the back fork4 ,but that  new style
 did not last long1 for the reason1 ,i  
suppose1 that most of the  cutters did  
not get the points of the forks correct4
 ,there is no question  but that it can 
be done satisfactorily4 ,the only       
objection ,i could make  is this3 ,when 
the inseam is thrown too far backward1  
the dress part on  that seam locates too
 far backward1 while really the dress   
requires to  be located as far forward  
as possible1 and for this reason ,i have
 the  undress fork located1 near the    
angle of ten degrees1 and it may be made
  just even with that angle1 and all    
other width allowed on the back4    ,if 
for any reason it is necessary to cut a 
pants with a very large fork  on the    
front1 and a small fork on the back1 the
 pattern should be cut  like ,dia4 ,,xi1
 but the fork should be spread so that  
whole can be cut  without piecing2      
whereby the crotch seam can be thrown   

anywhere1 by the  help of the sweep from
 point #hj1 without losing the balance4 
,if the  cutter is able to cut that seam
 anywhere1 it may save him a great deal 
of  piecing where such piecing is not   
desired4    ,illustration               
,illustration          ,,the ,,angle    
,,of ,,seven ,,and ,a ,,half ,,degrees  
,,for ,,pants4      ,this angle must be 
further explained4 ,although ,i am using
 the angles  two and a half1 ten1       
fifteen and twenty degrees for cutting  
pants1  the angle of seven and a half   
degrees is the main angle1 because it   
corresponds more nearly to the slope of 
the legs1 at the outside1 than  an other
 angle1 and the combined outside slopes 
form an angle of fifteen  degrees4 ,i do
 not claim that the outer sides of a    
person's legs actually  slope fifteen   
degrees4 ,in fact1 ,i know they do not1 
but they come near  enough to that to be
 practical for garment-cutting4 ,it may 
be fourteen  or sixteen degrees1 and it 
may be even more than that1 as on short 

and  large-waisted forms1 or it may be  
less than that1 as on tall and slim     
persons1 but fifteen degrees is the     
sixth part of a square and is easily    
found by spreading two lines one-fourth 
of their length4 ,going up from a       
certain point one yard1 and across      
one-fourth yard1 will make the angle  of
 fifteen degrees4 ,by placing a straight
 edge on each side of the body1  on and 
along the slanting side of each leg1    
they would form an angle of  fifteen    
degrees4 ,these slopes are certainly the
 longest and straightest  lines that can
 be drawn on the human form1 and there  
is no reason to  contend that they are  
not good lines to use as bases for      
cutting pants4  ,the longest and        
straightest lines are always the best to
 be used as bases  to work from for     
almost anything4 ,within these two      
lines1 representing  the angle of       
fifteen degrees1 is contained the whole 
pants1 providing  the proper            
circumferences are obtained to go around

 the entire body4  ,wrapping a sheet of 
paper around the body will give the     
correct idea of  what ,i mean4 ,there is
 the slope of fifteen degrees1 and there
 is the  circumference around the whole 
body1 and represents a cover for both   
legs  as though they were one4    ,pants
 are cut for one side of the body1 but  
on double cloth2 so we make  our        
calculation for half of the body only4  
,if we shape that sheet of  paper       
according to the form of the body1 it   
will represent a slope1 on  the sides1  
of fifteen degrees1 while a straight    
line in front and center  of the body   
will divide the angle of fifteen degrees
 into two equal  parts1 or seven and a  
half degrees1 on each side1 which seven 
and a half  degrees are used as a base  
for this garment1 representing a cover  
of  three-fourths of one leg1 viz43 one 
front1 one side and one back4 ,the      
inside of the leg requires as its share 
one-third of the whole outside1  and as 
the whole outside is the angle of seven 

and a half degrees1 it  follows that    
one-third equals two and a half degrees1
 which latter1  attached to the angle of
 seven and a half degrees1 forms one    
whole angle  of ten degrees4    ,this   
angle of ten degrees1 with its proper   
width1 will cover a bare leg1  and if it
 does not exactly fit it1 it will at    
least represent the same  slopes1 and by
 these1 reductions at the knee and      
additions to the bottom  can be made4   
,for the point of the double dress fork 
one and one-eighth  to one and          
one-quarter is to be allowed1 outside of
 the angle of ten  degrees1 and         
three-eighths less for the double       
undress side1 and whatever  the forepart
 is made smaller is allowed again on the
 back4 ,the points of  the forks must be
 so constructed that they all rest on   
the same sweep1  as shown in ,dia4      
,,xiv1 unless the front and the back are
 made extremely  wide or narrow1 in     
which case the points can not rest on   
the sweep1 but  must be put as shown in 

,dia4 ,,xiv4 ,the allowance of one and  
one-eighth  to one and one-quarter for  
the double dress fork is simply an      
average  quantity and one is enough for 
a close fit1 while a very loose fit1 or 
open cut1 may have one and three-eighths
 allowed4 ,that part of the pants  can  
not be cut to fit close to the body1 but
 must always have some loose  cloth     
there1 but it must be cut so that it    
will hang straight4 ,years of           
experience have taught me that one and  
one-eighth to one and one-quarter  is a 
good average4 ,the same cause1 which    
requires the front of the waist  to be  
thrown forward of the base on #g deg41  
requires the addition to the  fork1 and 
to the angle of #aj deg41 and the normal
 form requires about the  same amount at
 the waist and at the undress side4 ,if 
the front base were  moved forward to   
the front of waist1 the angle of #aj    
deg4 would also move  forward to the    
half undress fork4 ,the extra allowance 
for the dress fork  must be considered  

independent of the body1 as it is a     
one-sided affair4    ,for a close       
fitting leg the angle of #aj deg4 may   
have an allowance of   double at the    
inside of the knee1 or the forepart may 
be placed on  the base1 and  allowed on 
the back1 and a larger leg may have     
anything  more1 which a nice slope of   
the seams allows1 but which in no case  
may  be more than  to  on the double4   
,large spring bottoms will have to be   
considered as close fitting at each     
seam1 and the springs thrown forward  by
 stretching the side seams4    ,the side
 of the knee may be hollowed out  on the
 double1 and in this  case may be       
considered as that portion which is     
thrown outward on the  inside1 in order 
to give the pants leg the natural slope 
of the body for  both inside and        
outside4 ,for a large leg the side of   
the knee may have  anything more which  
is consistent with a nice slope of the  
side seam1  starting at the seat line4  
,the above description of a close       

fitting pants  leg at the knee will hold
 good on a few sizes only1 say from #ce 
to #cg4  ,larger sizes must be reduced  
more and require less than the angle of 
#g  deg41 as seen in ,dia4 ,,xx1 and    
smaller sizes must have more width4     
,if a large size is to be fitted with a 
close-fitting leg at the knee1 the  best
 way to obtain the correct points is to 
take the center line of the  angle of   
#aj deg4 as a point to measure from1 and
 give the double inside   more than the 
double outside1 which will be the same  
as the above  calculation for a medium  
size4 ,as stated elsewhere1 the         
allowance on top  of front of the waist 
to the angle of #g deg41 and to the fork
 and to the  knee1 is caused by the base
 being located  to the side of the      
center of  the body4    ,in a standing  
position the base would locate at the   
supposed inside edge  of the front of   
the leg1 but it must be considered that 
at each step  the center of the whole   
upper body is thrown upon the center of 

the  standing leg1 and consequently the 
bases of a pair of pants change at  each
 step1 and the pants is required to set 
reasonably well in all the  different   
positions in which the leg may be       
thrown1 all of which can only  be       
accomplished by extra width in the fork1
 and which may be termed the  balance of
 a pants4 ,if said balance is not       
correct1 the pants leg will  make a kink
 or throw a fold somewhere upward to the
 knee4    ,this fault of pants can be   
seen in the muddy streets of a small    
town1 as  well as on the fashionable    
boulevards in large cities1 and are even
 shown  on fashion plates4 ,such may be 
in style by some reporters of fashions1 
but ,i never did like them1 and ,i do   
not suppose anyone else does1 but       
somebody must cut and make them as long 
as they are so shown on the  fashion    
plates4    ,this question will always   
have to be considered by cutters1 and it
 cannot  be explained too much4         
,careless nicking of the seams1 or      

carelessness in  bringing the nicks     
together when the legs are sewed up1    
will also cause  a twist in the legs1   
one way or the other4 ,pants legs which 
draw from  bottom of inside1 up and     
forward1 to the knee1 may be changed    
either by  giving more width at the     
inside of the bottom1 starting at the   
fork1  or by reducing width at the top  
and front of waist1 and running it out  
gradually below the knee4 ,if the       
reduction of the front of the waist     
makes the waist too small1 allow behind 
what is taken off in front4    ,if      
anybody will go to the trouble to open  
his own pants in front1 and  draw the   
front sidewise and the side backward1 it
 will be seen that that  twist from the 
inside angle to front of knee will form1
 and by twisting  the upper portion a   
great deal1 the twist will form all over
 the leg4  ,now1 if a pants forms that  
twist itself1 it shows that the pants   
must be  altered contrary2 that is1 by  
reducing the front and allowing behind1 

or  in other words1 by twisting the     
pants waist from the side forward and   
from the back sideward4 ,how far that   
twist is to be made depends upon the    
condition of the pants1 also how far    
down it is to be made4 ,as to the       
amount of changing such a pattern or    
system is not for me to say2 ,i can     
only point out the way to alter1 not the
 amount4 ,such pants1 when made  up1 are
 hard to alter1 but by knowing how to   
alter them1 a cutter can1 at  least1    
change the next one4    ,the thigh      
proper would not require #a addition for
 the dress side to the  angle of #aj    
deg41 but the legs at the fork do not   
join closely1 but are  about #a inches  
apart1 and at this point1 and in front  
of the thigh1  there is a hollow which  
is partly filled out with the sexual    
organ1 which  must be provided with     
extra cloth1 commonly called 8dress0 in 
tailors'  language4 ,the hollow itself  
forms a bridge from one leg to the      
other1  and for the purpose of fitting  

pants1 cloth to cover that bridge must  
be  allowed for each leg1 and is put    
down in this work as an allowance of    
to the double angle of #aj deg4 for the 
undress side4 ,this allowance for  the  
bridge is made on the same principle as 
the wedges are1 which are put  in       
between the fingers of gloves1 and which
 allow the fingers to move in  any      
direction4    ,at line #h the dress fork
 is placed at #a1 but #a is enough for a
 close  fit1 and the dress fork and the 
back should be even at line #h4 ,the    
back  is even with the front at line #h1
 and the half dress fork at line #aj is 
made larger or smaller according to the 
width at line #h1 all of which          
constitutes the difference between the  
open and the close cut at that  point4  
,now ,i must say something about the #a 
thrown forward on top of waist1 as  in  
,fig4 #a4 ,this #a is for such forms    
which throw their front of waist1  say  
forward of a straight line1 running     
parallel with the front slope  of the   

legs1 and which is forward on top1 and  
which forms may be called  forward      
leaning waists1 but the variations are  
so great that no positive  point can be 
given2 but in order to have something   
for a standard1 ,i have  put it down as 
4 ,the  forward growth of the top of    
waist and the  from  the base to the    
center1 make a combination of #a and any
 waist which  leans considerably        
forward1 or any waist that is near as   
large as the  seat1 requires that       
amount4 ,all that which has been said   
above about the  amount to be thrown    
forward of the base for the normal form1
 as in ,dia4  ,,xix1 is independent of  
any consideration for a large waist1 and
 which is  further explained in the     
,article on 8,pants40 ,but ,i must add  
this3 ,a  large waist1 though it grows  
forward from the back1 don't locate     
itself  forward according to the        
difference of the diameter from front to
 back  on the same person1 as it might  
be supposed4 ,whenever the waist becomes

  larger the body will straighten up1 in
 order to keep in balance1 and  we can  
see many large waisted forms whose front
 of waist is no further  forward than   
that of a small waisted form1 and       
consequently require not  much addition 
to the front1 but to the side4 ,hence #a
 thrown forward may  be plenty for even 
a large waist1 and ,i find that two     
numbers are about  the most which any   
pants can stand1 or ought to have4 ,it  
would be folly  to attempt to measure   
the amount in any shape or form1 but all
 this must  be made by guess1 and it is 
fortunate for cutters that a quarter or 
even  one half inch1 more or less1 will 
not kill the fit4 7,see description of  
,fig4 #a47    ,the angle of #g deg4 is  
formed according to the scale of the    
seat  measure1 and over that point the  
side of the pants may have the full     
width of that angle1 while above 7at the
 waist71 and below 7at the knee71  the  
normal size requires a reduction4 ,on   
the normal form the seat measure  is the

 largest1 and the hips are cut          
accordingly1 and the waist and the  knee
 are cut according to the measure1 and  
it will be seen that whenever  the waist
 becomes larger1 the hips also increase1
 and if we want to cut  the waist larger
 we cannot help cutting the hips larger 
also1 and the  hips will mostly follow  
the waist4 ,it is true there are some   
extra large  hips with small waists1 and
 if this is the case1 the hips must     
receive  enough cloth1 and to retain a  
nice slope of the seams1 the waist      
should  be cut down again by a larger   
gore in the middle of the back4 ,unless 
the hips and waist are larger than the  
seat1 there is no need of going  outside
 of the angle of #g deg41 but extremely 
small waists and small  hips require a  
reduction over the side1 the same as    
extremely large  waists and hips require
 an addition4 ,how much that may be must
 be left to  the cutter1 but ,i will    
give a rule which works both ways3 ,on a
 normal #ch  seat the hip may be #cj and

 the waist #cd1 which requires the full 
angle  of #g deg4 at the side of line   
eight2 and at1 and above1 the seat line1
  but a reduction of say  inch at the   
waist on single cloth1 and a small  gore
 in the back4 ,now1 if the hips should  
be #ch inches too1 it is but  reasonable
 to allow over the hips1 and outside of 
the angle of #g deg41  the difference of
 such #i numbers1 at #d numbers below   
#j1 which is in  this case about  of an 
inch on both front and back4 ,still     
larger hips  in proportion to the seat  
and still larger sizes can be calculated
 the  same way1 and though the rule     
would hold good in the case of quite    
small  hips1 the proportionately smaller
 hips are seldom found1 and if found at 
all1 will indicate a smaller waist1 and 
the slope to the smaller waist  will    
regulate the smaller hip1 the same as a 
larger waist will regulate a  larger    
hip4    ,some persons are found who are 
very flat from back to front1 and broad 
from side to side1 but of normal        

circumference1 and for such1 the pants  
should be cut full at the top of side1  
and reduced on top of front1  because   
they are mostly erect forms4 ,in all    
such cases ,i would consider  the       
backbone1 at the hollow of the waist1 as
 a permanent thing1 and  regulate the   
waist for any form at the front and     
side4    ,to obtain the correct shape   
for the depth of the crotch1 is clearly 
shown  in ,dia4 ,,xiii and ,,xiv1 or in 
any diagram with a sweep from point #hj1
 but  we can not always go down to point
 #hj1 and the next best thing to be done
  is by squaring from the inside line of
 the angle of #aj deg4 through point    
#aj on the front base1 and it will      
result in the same thing4 ,at the crotch
  all faults of the upper part of a pair
 of pants are recorded4 ,if the  pants  
are too small over the side of waist or 
hip1 the side of the waist  or hip will 
seldom show it1 because the solid hip   
will draw the pants up  to the side1 and
 the soft part of the inside thigh will 

be pinched and  sawed by every step4 ,we
 find plenty of men who will always     
direct cutters  to give them plenty     
fork1 because they always have their    
pants too tight1  and when we look at   
such persons1 we will find that they are
 always  full grown at the sides of hip 
and waist4 ,true1 more fork will help   
such pants1 but they will not set as    
good as if they were supplied with      
sufficient cloth over the hips4 ,too    
much cloth over the hips will not       
injure the pants1 it will simply make   
them large there1 but not enough  will  
always bring on complaint4    ,for the  
following reasons1 the base1 or the     
front line of the angle of #g  deg41 was
 not placed in the center of the front3 
#ast4 ,the base would not run parallel  
with the front of the leg4    #b;d4 ,the
 center line of the angle of #aj deg4   
would not run on and along  the center  
of the leg1 and consequently would be   
useless for the crease  line4    #c;d4  
,the center line would not be a reliable

 point from which to establish  the     
center of the front1 at a distance of   
waist1 close measure4    #dth4 ,the     
center line would not be the center line
 for the knee for all  widths4    #eth4 
,the center line1 being used for the    
running of a stripe1 would not  run with
 sufficient correctness1 at least not on
 the back4    ,all the positions of the 
lines1 angles and bases are placed as   
indicated1  because years of trial have 
convinced me that they give the best    
results4  ,there is no way conceivable1 
that ,i have not tried1 to adjust the   
angle  of #g deg4 in order to bring the 
lines in harmony with the body--and  the
 result is here given4 ,what            
difficulties ,i have had1 to obtain this
  result1 it is not necessary for me to 
say1 neither would anyone believe  me1  
,i suppose4 ,but ,i do say1 however1    
that ,i spent #h years in the work  of  
alteration1 to adjust this angle of #g  
deg4 ,to some it may seem  improbable   
that ,i would possess the patience and  

determination to succeed  in solving the
 problem1 and would stick to that       
determination for #h long  years--but ,i
 did4    ,now1 ,i will give a           
description of the seat and compare it  
with the front1  and follow it with a   
description of the slope of the back1 by
 which the  seat is to be fitted4 ,from 
the crotch forward the front tapers up1 
and  forward1 and the normal form can be
 fitted on a straight line1 or with a   
straight piece of material1 by simply   
turning the crotch backward1 but  it is 
not so with the back1 or the seat 7see  
,dia4 ,,xv74 ,the seat turns in  a      
different way1 and from the crotch      
backward2 downward first1 say #a to  #a 
inches1 then backward1 and then upward  
and forward again4 ,a sheet of  paper   
wrapped around the body will fit well in
 to the body of the normal  form all    
around the front 7see ,dia4 ,,xv74 ,at  
the side it will do the same  all the   
way up to the thigh-bone1 or the largest
 part of the seat4 ,but on  the back the

 sheet will not meet the body below1 or 
above the seat1 nor  will the sheet     
touch the top of the side2 and in order 
to bring the back  to the body1 below   
the seat1 the back must be cut through  
crosswise1 when  the lower portion can  
be pushed in1 and thus brought in       
contact with the  back of the thigh4    
,thus cutting the sheet crosswise and   
below the seat  will cause an opening of
 about #b inches directly under the     
seat1 running  out to nothing at the    
side of the thigh1 which opening1 if    
minutely  examined1 will show an angle  
of #ae deg4 ,this must be closed again  
by  inserting a wedge by some means4    
,this inserted wedge forms a sack for   
the  seat1 and is thrown downward and   
backward just as the seat itself4       
,but it will not do to cut pants with a 
piece across the seat1 so we must       
create an artificial wedge by using the 
surplus cloth on the top of the  side1  
and dipping it backward and downward    
over the seat1 and inward to  the back  

of the thigh4 ,by so doing1 the original
 back center is thrown  over the line1  
and is cut off as back slope2 and       
whatever the back has  been thrown      
downward1 and1 has lost in length1 is   
allowed again on the  top1 and is       
usually termed 8extra length of back40  
,when the pants are on the body1 both   
front and back are alike in length  as  
far as the fit is concerned1 but we may 
make the back an inch longer  for nice  
appearance1 and it is usually so done4  
,that portion which stands  off on1 or  
around the back1 on such a sheet1 is    
reduced by one or two  gores in the     
back4 ,the extra length of the back is  
taken up by winding  around the seat1   
and well-adjusted or well-balanced pants
 will always fit  there4 ,i claim that  
the angle of #g deg41 with an artificial
 wedge across  the seat1 will produce   
this result every time1 as shown in     
,dia4 ,,xiv4    ,with the help of ,dia4 
,,xix1 ,,xx and ,,xxi1 there should be  
no difficulty  in cutting a pair of     

pants that will be a pleasure to wear2  
but1 as in  all things1 there must also 
be harmony between the cutting and      
making1  and for this purpose ,i will   
add1 that all diagrams and patterns     
issued  by a reliable publisher of      
fashions are calculated to be cut from  
nice  material1 which requires small    
seams4 ,their pants are to be made up   
without lining1 which allows them to    
give in every direction2 and they  are  
also calculated to be worn over         
nice-fitting under-clothing4 ,in  fact1 
they are calculated for fine trade1 and 
they are made by tailors1  who receive  
about #c4jj pay per pair for making4    
,therefore1 when such  a pattern is sent
 out1 and pants are made from cheap     
goods with large  seams1 and in all     
probability lined with heavy muslin1 the
 result is1  that the customer cannot   
wear them4 ,then1 again1 one cutter may 
perhaps  allow a little extra here1 and 
another allow a little there1 and the   
pants in the end may be large           

enough--but where is the city style and 
the  neat fit8    ,the same is true as  
to coats and vests4 ,reports of fashions
 are intended  for fine work1 and all   
that this term implies2 and a cutter who
 uses  such patterns to make a pair of  
pants for a man who works in a ditch    
must  allow more fork and more seat     
length as well as more width for the    
upper  body--all allowed on the side4   
,extra looseness for the upper body is  
best  provided by allowing all at the   
side1 where it may hang loose but       
smooth2  but if the extra width is      
allowed in the fork1 it will remain     
there on  a twist1 and it may even cut  
the seat1 if only allowed above the     
fork4  ,allowing extra width above the  
fork is almost as bad as to allow extra 
width at the front of the armhole1 which
 allowance would really make the  hole  
smaller4    ,from the crotch downward   
the whole leg must conform to the slope 
of the  angle of #g deg41 because the   
relation of the crotch and the ankles   

change very little except on deformed   
persons4 ,some persons may throw  their 
feet a little further apart than others 
when walking1 and the  center of the    
body may be considered at the inside    
ankles1 or one inch  from each inside   
ankle1 just as a person may place his   
feet while  standing naturally4 ,but    
when walking1 the center of each half   
body is in  the center of each leg1 for 
by each step one leg makes the whole    
body  must throw itself upon the center 
of the other leg1 or else the body      
would tumble over4 ,this can be best    
observed in slow walking1 while by  fast
 running it is not noticed4 ,any person 
who walks slowly throws his  upper body 
more to a position of standing on one   
leg1 than a fast runner1  hence the slow
 walker is seen wabbling his head from  
one side to the  other by every step1   
the same as a goose4    ,in this work   
the pants are calculated each leg for   
itself1 and each leg  has its own base2 
and they are so adjusted1 that a person 

can stand1  walk1 jump1 run1 sit1 etc41 
and it must be understood that when a   
pants  is on the body the base goes with
 the leg1 so that the base runs straight
  down when the person makes a step1 or 
when he stands on one leg2 but when  he 
stands on both legs the base will       
naturally run a trifle sidewise  at the 
ankles1 and consequently a true plumb   
line pant base can not be  found1 except
 for one position of the leg only1 and  
the position of  the bases1 as given in 
this work1 are as near correct as any   
can be  established1 and from which any 
particular shape of pants may be shaped4
  ,as for instance3 ,riding pants       
require more fork1 so that the rider can
  spread his legs sidewise4 ,sailor     
pants require more width at the bottom1 
and that width must be allowed on the   
outside1 or else such pants would       
strike each other at every step4 ,for   
all such and other changes we have  a   
base to work from1 and after all such   
changes are made we must see  that      

provision is made to sew the parts      
correctly together1 by carefully        
nicking the seams4    ,the center of    
gravitation in a pair of pants may be   
considered to exist  at the points of   
the angles1 which are eighty numbers    
below the top of  the waist1 hence a    
sweep from the point will make a true   
connection at  any point of the leg1 and
 such sweeps can be depended upon no    
matter how  narrow the fore part1 or how
 wide the back is cut1 and especially so
 when  laid out like ,diagrams ,,xiv and
 ,,xv4 ,now1 to make a draft from that  
point  for every pants or pattern we    
cut1 would be inconvenient1 neither is  
it  required that it should be done1    
except for practice2 but when a cutter  
knows a center which is infallible1 he  
is certainly better off than if he      
knows no such center4 ,a sensible       
person1 if he cannot do just as he wants
  to1 will do the best he can2 and1 so  
in this case1 there are several ways    
open for operations4    #ast4 ,cut both 

the front and back of equal width at the
 knee1 and notch  there2 then measure   
upward and downward4    #b;d4 ,run the  
inside and the outside lines of the     
angle of #aj deg4 down as  far as the   
cloth or the table allows1 and sweep the
 inside seam from the  inside line and  
the outside from the outside line1 each 
seam separately1  from a point as far   
down as you can reach4    #c;d4 ,fold   
the broader back over to the smaller    
front1 so that both will  lay smooth and
 without twisting1 then cut the nicks4  
#dth4 ,square from each line of the     
angle of #aj deg41 and at the knee only1
  because1 at the knees1 the front and  
the back are the nearest together1  then
 measure up and down and cut the nicks1 
and in all cases be careful  that the   
back is not held full behind the knee   
and upward on either  seam4444    ,if   
the distance between the smaller front  
and wider back were miles1  or rods1    
even1 the result would not be very      
satisfactory1 but in this  case the     

space is never more than #a inch1 and   
the variations in the  several ways are 
not perceptible4 ,the diagrams in this  
work are the best  illustration of the  
sweeps from point #hj1 as well as of the
 cutting of  all seams on a nice slope4 
,the medium sizes require the top of    
forepart about  of the whole waist      
measure1 but smaller sizes require the  
side seam further back and the  larger  
ones more forward on account of the     
pockets4 ,another point should  be      
observed3 ,it has been stated that the  
center line of the angle of  #aj deg4 is
 a line to square from for a level      
bottom as well as for a  level top1 all 
of which is true1 but the waist of the  
normal form runs  downward in front1 and
 the top of the normal waist should be  
run in the  same direction1 and for this
 reason should be squared from the front
 base  line1 and for extremely small    
waists it may be squared from the front 
line of the angle of #aj deg4 ,taking   
,dia4 ,,xiv as a model1 we may sink  the

 front of waist  inch and raise the back
 1 to #a inch from that top  square     
line4    ,in conclusion of this article1
 ,i will say that1 perhaps1 ,i have gone
 too  many times over the same ground1  
and perhaps ,i will go over it again and
  again1 but it is always from a        
different standpoint and connected with 
something else4    ,illustration        
,illustration          ,,general        
,,remarks ,,about ,,pants4      ,at the 
present time1 the style of pants is     
loose at the knee1 tapering  smaller    
toward the bottom4 ,pants which are cut 
wide at the knee must  start with extra 
width at the seat line1 and said extra  
width must be  well divided on both     
seams4 ,all pants must fit the same at  
the seat line  and above1 and           
fashionable width at the knee must be   
started from the  seat line downward4   
,dia4 ,,xix represents a pants of the   
present style1 and  is made over a      
pattern of #ch seat1 actual waist       
measure #cc1 and waist  made up #cd2    

about #ai knee1 #ah bottom1 and is for a
 rather small waist4  ,dia4 ,,xx        
represents a large waist1 of about #ej  
inches1 made up2 but actual  waist      
measure #dg1 and seat measure #df       
inches2 knee #bb1 bottom #bj4    ,for   
extremely large waists1 ,dia4 ,,xx may  
be used1 and that extra width  allowed  
equal in front and on the side4 ,on all 
large waists1 the seat  measure must be 
taken close1 and the fork cut           
accordingly1 no matter what  the hip and
 the waist measure may be4 ,the seat    
measure is the standard  for the scale1 
and the large waist must be fitted      
according to the  measure1 the same as  
the length of the legs1 or the width of 
the knee4  ,dia4 ,,xxi represents a     
pants of #ci seat1 with a very high     
waist4 ,the top  of waist is made up #cg
 inches1 but at the hollow of the waist 
it is only  #cf inches4    ,the angle of
 #g deg4 has the proper width for all   
pants1 at the seat  line1 and in no case
 is a reduction1 or an addition required

 there4 ,above  the seat line1 the hip  
and waist must be made according to the 
measure1  and below1 it must be made    
according to style and measure4 ,as to  
the top  of the side1 it may be proper  
to remark here1 that if the top of the  
side  is too small for any pants1 the   
fork balance will be destroyed1 because 
the sides of the body will draw the fork
 upward1 and will cause it to  cut the  
crotch somewhere4 ,the waist is one     
continuous surface all around  and may  
feel tight all around1 but if the crotch
 is pulled up by a small  waist at the  
top of side1 that will saw the crotch on
 one spot4 ,therefore  ,i will repeat   
the true balance for the waist1 on the  
angle of #g deg4  ,reduce the angle of  
#g deg4--from #f upward1 #ae deg4 for   
back slope--from  the top of the center 
line of the angle of #aj deg4 go forward
  of whole  waist circumference1 close  
measure2 cut a gore of #a inch in the   
center  of the back2 measure from the   
front to the side and from the back to  

the  side1 and if that gives too much   
waist1 cut another small gore between   
the forepart and the back4 ,but if the  
waist requires more than that1  divide  
the addition required into #c parts1 and
 place #b parts at the sides  and #a    
part in front4 ,if the waist is higher  
than  whole seat measure1  run the gore 
in the back1 out to nothing on top1 as  
in ,dia4 ,,xxi1 and the  higher the     
waist is cut upward the more it must be 
cut like ,dia4 ,,xiii1  both at the side
 and at the front4 ,working pants with  
the front cut clear  up to the neck1    
must have the upper part of the front   
cut like ,dia4 ,,xiii1  that is1 sloped 
backward #ae deg4 from the waist4       
,dia4 ,,xx has #b numbers thrown out in 
front and top of waist1 and at line  #h 
it is #a while the double dress fork    
point has #d1 which produces a  good    
open cut for such pants4 ,the point of  
the fork may be made  inch  more or less
 for the same person1 providing         
allowance or reduction at  the point of 

the fork is run up and down1 running out
 about #e inches  above the fork1 and   
at1 or below the knee4 ,i know it is    
contended that  a large-waisted form    
requires a larger fork in proportion to 
the seat  measure1 but this is not the  
case1 as long as the hips and sides of  
waist  have sufficient cloth4 ,the thigh
 may grow in proportion to a larger     
seat1  but it does not grow in          
proportion to a larger waist4           
,large-waisted  persons have small seats
 in proportion to the normal form1 and  
the  proportion of the scale of the seat
 measure is large enough for all  forms4
 ,that same result may be observed at   
the knee1 and at the bottom2  and to    
better express my ideas1 ,i will say    
something about the diameter  of the    
thigh1 as well as the diameter of the   
knee and the ankle4    ,for the purpose 
of cutting pants1 the leg may be        
considered a straight  and round pole1  
but tapering at the lower end to about  
of what it is  on top4 ,the thigh can be

 covered and fitted for modern pants1   
all seams  included1 if we allow it #d  
times its diameter1 close measure of the
  thigh1 without compressing it4 ,the   
circumference of a circle is equal  to  
three and one thousand four hundred and 
sixteen ten thousandths  7#c4adaf7 times
 its diameter1 which is so near to #c   
that we may call it  so1 at least for   
the purpose of cutting and fitting      
pants4 ,now1 if #c  diameters of the    
thigh will constitute the circle for the
 thigh1 then  that circle will fit the  
thigh skin tight1 but if we allow #d    
diameters1  we have enough cloth to sew 
seams and a few inches beside for       
straddle  and general looseness4 ,if the
 diameter of the thigh were only #a     
inch1 #d  diameters1 or #d inches1 would
 not give cloth enough to go all around1
  after #a inch is used up for seams4   
,in cutting pants1 we may say that a    
seat size of #cf inches is a medium     
size2 and for the purpose of fitting    
such a thigh with a modern pants1 we    

will call its actual diameter #f inches2
 and its skin-tight circumference  just 
#ba inches1 and close investigation will
 show that this is a fair  average4 ,if 
we give such a pants #d times #f inches1
 and deduct #a inch for  all seams1 we  
have #bc inches left to cover the thigh1
 which only measures  #ba inches1 and   
this would be plenty for the undress    
side4 ,i do not say  that a             
close-fitting undress side can not stand
 more than this1 but ,i say  it should  
have that much1 and that #a to #a inches
 more1 evenly divided1  will not make it
 too large for a fit1 at least not for  
the present  conception of a fit4    ,at
 the side of thigh1 the angle of #g deg4
 is just  of the whole net  seat        
measure1 which may be taken for a medium
 loose leg1 but for a quite  close fit1 
to  inch may be deducted1 and for a     
quite loose fit1  anything may be       
allowed there1 which will make a nice   
slope for the  seams4 ,for a size #cf   
the angle of #b deg4 has a width of #c  

inches at the  fork1 and the double     
angle of #aj deg4 requires double the   
amount of #d  times #c inches1 making in
 all #bd inches1 to which is added #a   
inches for  the undress side1 for extra 
straddle1 and the bridge from one leg to
 the  other1 making it #ac inches in all
 for the half undress side4    ,the     
above calculation is here given for the 
purpose of showing how close  the       
diameter and the circumference of the   
thigh correspond to the angle  of #g    
deg4 as used in this work4 ,it also     
shows that a larger thigh1 say  of #g   
inches diameter1 produces more cloth in 
proportion to a smaller  thigh of say #e
 inches diameter1 and that the addition 
of #b inches to  each and all half seat 
measures will give a good balance for   
all sizes4  ,but for reasons explained  
elsewhere1 boys should have plenty fork1
 and  when we come below size #bh1 we   
should give all that is consistent with 
a  very open cut of the fork4 ,the      
largest sizes may be cut according to   

the  scale and to ,dia4 ,,xx4    ,at the
 knee the same proportion of #d         
diameters will hold good4 ,let us       
accept the diameter of the knee of a    
seat size of #cf as #d in41 and         
allowing #d times #d in41 we have #ah   
in41 from which is to be taken off #a   
in4 for seams1 and we have #ag in4 left1
 which is enough to cover the leg4  ,but
 we find that for a #cj size the knee   
would not be large enough for the       
purpose1 and an addition must be made   
according to the measure1 and the       
contrary is the case on larger sizes1 as
 shown in ,dia4 ,,xx4    ,at the bottoms
 we find the same calculation to be     
true1 for if we take  the diameter of   
the ankle to be #c in4 for size #cf1 the
 #d times #c in4  will give us #ab in41 
and after #a in4 is used up for seams1  
we have about  the actual circumference 
of the bare ankle1 and whatever boot1   
style or  notion requires more1 is      
allowed equally on both sides1 except on
 sailor  pants1 which must have more on 

the outside1 and the inside must have a 
reasonable allowance only4    ,dia4     
,,xix is made from a pattern of #ch seat
 size1 and #cc actual waist  measure1   
but the waist made up will be #cd to #ce
 in41 and which may be  called a normal 
waist4 ,the back seam must be cut on a  
gentle curve on  and over the seat      
lines1 because the curved edge over the 
seat seam will  become straight while   
winding around the seat4 ,that portion  
of the side  seam between the calf and  
the seat line1 must be regulated        
according to  the measure of the knee4  
,whenever the style requires a large    
knee1 the  side of the thigh must have  
more width1 starting at the seat line   
and  running down to below the knee1 so 
that it can spread in such a manner     
that both front and back will possess a 
smooth even slope4 ,extra width  there  
will not show1 but will hang there as   
though the body would fill it  out4     
,when a person assumes a sitting posture
 the width from the outside  will go    

backward just as easily as the width    
from the inseam will go  backward1 and  
the extra width will not interfere with 
the side of the  thigh2 but extra width 
at the back curve1 at line #h1 will do  
harm1--in  fact it will interfere with  
the seat1 unless it can be spread also4 
,to be successful in cutting pants1 a   
cutter must be able to produce a        
close-fitting one1 and when he can do   
that he must be able to use the         
close-fitting pants as a base for a     
loose-fitting one without losing the    
balance4 ,after a cutter can do this he 
is not yet done1 for then comes  those  
tasty touches1 which consist in his     
ability to harmonize thigh and  knee and
 bottom for each particular customer1   
and which cannot be learned  from the   
books1 but must gradually come to him   
through experience and  attention to    
business4    ,a narrow leg must be      
shaped according to the shape of the    
knee1 and  should be held a trifle full 
over the knee1 say about #d in4 above   

and #d  in4 below the center2 but that  
8fulling0 must be equal on both sides   
and  carefully notched1 so that the     
maker cannot throw the leg out of shape4
  ,the best way to notch the seams is to
 notch equally about #e in4 above and   
the same distance below the knee1 and   
then measure down equally to within  #e 
or #f in4 of the bottom1 and notch      
again4 ,within these #e or #f in4 above 
the bottom all stretching of the side of
 the fore part must be done for         
spring-bottom pants4 ,these may seem    
quite too many trifles to attend to1    
but a few notches are soon made1 and if 
a leg twists it will perhaps take  hours
 to alter it1--often it will become     
worse in altering4 ,a small leg  should 
also have a trifle curve or spread at   
the outside seam1 over the  side of the 
calf1 while the inside is perfectly     
straight1 except what is  required for  
the shoe or boot or style1 and a        
close-fitting pants must  also be       
stretched at the back crease line over  

the calf4 ,cutters1 and  tailors as     
well1 must study the form of the body   
from neck to ankle1 and  their ideas    
must harmonize as to what that form     
requires4    ,a line may be struck      
anywhere on a pattern and used as a base
 to work  from4 ,a line may be struck   
from the top of the side to the inside  
ankle1  and the same thing can be       
produced on a larger or smaller scale4  
,but such  a line is only an imaginary  
base4 ,a line to be worthy of the name  
8,base0  must correspond to certain     
angles1 or certain edges or slopes of   
the  body1 and for this reason ,i claim 
that the angles of #g or #ae deg4 are   
perfect bases for cutting pants1 because
 they correspond to the slope of  the   
sides of the legs4 ,now1 when we receive
 a new work1 or a new diagram1  or a new
 pattern1 from our latest fashion       
reports1 we find a line here  on one1   
and a line there on the other1 which    
they use as bases1 and  both may be     
right2 but unless they show distinctly  

why it is a certain  distance from one  
point to another1 and why the lines are 
just so and not  otherwise1 all parts   
and points must remain uncertain        
quantities with the  uninitiated when   
the pants is to be made either larger or
 smaller at the  waist or at the knee4  
,in using the angle of #g or #aj deg4   
for cutting pants1 the base is  clearly 
indicated1 and either line of its       
different divisions may be used  as a   
base4 ,as a proof that the angle of #g  
deg4 is a true base for all  pants1 is  
the fact1 that after the pants pattern  
is marked out1 as in  ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx 
and ,,xxi1 and the sweeps for notches   
are made from the point  of the angles1 
the point of the angle may be used as a 
pivot1 and the  forepart may be thrown  
forward so that more back slope will be 
observed1  or the forepart may be thrown
 sidewise so that less or no back slope 
may  be the result2 and in both cases   
all points will change their relation1  
except the sweeps from the point4 ,what 

one side loses the other side  gains4   
,if all other points are correctly      
balanced it matters not how  large or   
how small the back slope or the fork of 
the pants may be made1  or where the    
seams are located4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xxii   
and ,,xxiii47    ,if a cutter goes to   
the trouble to mark a line for every    
degree or  fraction thereof1 and draw   
stitches in them1 he will find that the 
legs  will fold1 or can be pressed into 
shape1 on any of these lines1 and on  no
 other4 ,when such a pants leg is sewed 
together1 it may be turned in  almost   
any position1 with or without back      
slope1 and will always turn  from the   
point of the angle1 though cut off at   
the ankles2 and the sweeps  at the knee1
 or at other points1 swept from the     
point of the angle1 will  always fit    
together4 ,and when the garment is upon 
the body1 such sweeps  will be          
horizontal lines all around the form1   
and no horizontal line can  be produced 
from any other point1 either by square  

or by sweeps4    ,the above reasoning   
ought to settle the question of back    
slope1 which  has been the great        
conundrum for the last century4 ,i have 
gone through a  great many tribulations 
in cutting pants1 and other garments1   
and it may  be that ,i have killed more 
garments than anyone else1 but ,i       
determined  to solve the question if    
life permitted1 and ,i claim that ,i    
have been  rewarded4 ,looking back over 
a forty-year struggle1 ,i feel that kind
  ,providence has treated me very       
kindly1 though in disguise1 by refusing 
to  let me succeed years ago2 for in    
that case1 ,i suppose1 ,i would never   
have  thought of trying to discover     
anything better4    ,i will here mention
 one difficulty ,i have had to contend  
with1 and ,i have  no doubt but that    
others have experienced the same        
trouble1 and that  a great many more    
will have the same vexation after this1 
unless they  understand the principle of
 their work4 ,sometimes my pants turned 

out to  be too long1 and at other times 
too short2 and no matter how long or how
  short ,i took the measures they would 
turn out to be just the opposite4       
,without going into details1 ,i will    
give the reasons for such defects as ,i 
have learned to understand them4        
,pants may be too long or too short     
without any other fault2 and such must  
simply be made shorter or longer4 ,no   
cutter need expect to be exempt from    
the necessity of such alteration1 and   
such alteration ,i do not speak of  as  
meaning faulty pants4 ,i speak of too   
long or too short pants which are  too  
long or too short because the           
misconstructed leg twists somewhere1    
and produces folds or wrinkles1 and     
consequently draws the bottom up or     
down4 ,pants may be too long because the
 fork is not large enough from  some    
cause1 and cannot be drawn up into the  
crotch1 and must be let down  and cut   
off below2 but such a garment will draw 
up at every step1 and  when the wearer  

assumes the sitting position the bottom 
will crawl half  way to the knee4       
,pants which have too much cloth in the 
front of the waist will be pulled       
backward under the buckle-straps1 and in
 so doing the whole back will  wrinkle  
and work downward1 and will crawl under 
the heel at every step1  unless made    
quite short2 while walking1 each step   
will draw a wrinkle  from the bottom of 
the inner seam forward and upward to the
 knee4 ,many a  garment of this kind we 
see every day upon the streets of every 
city and  town4    ,now comes the       
opposite4 ,pants which have too much    
back slope form extra  large seats1 and 
consequently they can be drawn as       
tightly as possible  without cutting the
 wearer4 ,such must be cut extremely    
long at the  bottom1 and it will be     
found that it is not much of a trick to 
cut two  pairs of pants for the same    
person of which one is to be an inch    
longer  than the other4 ,pants that are 
cut away too much in front and back1 and

  spread sidewise1 will also become too 
short at the bottom1 because in         
bringing the side to the body the whole 
front and inner seam are laid  in       
wrinkles1 which take up length4 ,such   
may be made long enough by  opening the 
side seam and giving the whole side seam
 at the thigh a good  stretching1       
extending backward and forward as far as
 possible4    ,another cause for        
shortness of pants at the bottom is when
 the fork is  not cut deep enough1 for  
if the point of the fork is too high for
 the  front and back curve1 the extra   
height will fold up1 and1 of course1    
being within the measure1 will be       
missing below4 ,in this connection it   
is perhaps the proper place to point out
 the way in which to treat the  crotch1 
as regards the depth of the fork point4 
,from the front base  line of the angle 
of #g deg41 mark at #f for the seat     
line1 and square  to the side2 mark     
lines #h and #aj1 make the division of  
the angle of #g  deg4 on line #h as #c  

and #i sidewise and #c forward2 then    
square from the  inside line of the     
angle of #aj deg4 through #aj in front  
of the thigh4 ,and  observe1 that       
squaring through point #aj from the     
front line of the angle  of #aj deg41 as
 directed in this work1 will locate the 
fork point  inch  lower than if the     
squaring was done from the center of the
 angle of #aj  deg4 through point #aj4  
,if the back is made #d wide1 the point 
of the back must sink about  inch  lower
 than that square line through point    
#aj1 but a sweep from point #hj  would  
bring all points on the same sweep4 ,at 
the angle of #aj deg41 the  undress fork
 is about  to  higher than the sweep or 
the square line1  while the dress fork  
and back are about  above the sweep4    
,all of which  must be observed in      
shaping the crotch4    ,the width of the
 knee should in all cases be measured1  
but in the absence  of a positive       
measurement1 it should be observed that 
the half-seat  measure gives a good     

width for the knee for size #cf1 but    
size #dh is large  enough with #bb in41 
or #b in4 less than half seat1 while    
size #bd requires  a knee of at least   
#ad in41 or #b in4 more than half seat1 
and it should  be easy for every cutter 
to grade the sizes between4 ,the same   
variations  must be made at the bottoms4
    ,the points of the fork must be     
considered unchangeable1 except for     
style1  and all changes1 as to the      
backward or forward leaning waists1 must
 be  made upward4 ,the fact is1 that the
 fork and the seat are the only parts   
of the pants which can be obtained      
satisfactorily by the scale2 all other  
widths and all lengths must be obtained 
by the measure4    ,by observing ,dia4  
,,xv it will be seen that a certain hole
 is cut out of a  certain sheet which   
the body is expected to fill out1 and   
whenever the  front is made larger it   
must be made that much smaller in the   
back1 and  vice versa4 ,on top of waist1
 the body shifts backward and forward1  

and the pants must follow1 while both   
body and pants must be considered       
stationary at the fork4 ,dia4 ,,xv was  
intended to represent a large waist1    
and also a forward-leaning waist1 hence 
the front of the body is in front  of   
the base1 showing that the front of the 
pants requires additional  cloth4 ,the  
position of ,fig4 and ,dia4 ,,xv must be
 considered as a person  split in two   
from back to front1 and a sheet of paper
 applied as shown by  the diagram4      
,one of the most common faults of       
otherwise well-fitting pants is a fold  
or a crease forming at the bottom of the
 in-seam1 and running forward and       
upward to the centre of the leg in front
 anywhere below the knee4 ,it may  be   
observed when a person stands still1 or 
when he walks1 but it becomes  worse    
when walking2 the kink forms at every   
step4 ,this monstrosity can  even be    
seen on the fashion plates1 the         
publisher of which may contend  that    
this is a natural fault1 or that it is  

so because of a person's  peculiar      
position1 or the way he walks1 all of   
which is bosh1 because  a good-fitting  
pants does not do that1 and a customer  
who leaves his  order does not expect   
such fits1 and he would not leave his   
order for any  price1 if he were assured
 in advance that his pants would cut    
such snouts  when done4    ,the fact    
that a great many pants cut such        
sorrowful faces when on the  street is  
no excuse for any cutter to follow suit4
 ,pants can be cut to  hang straight1   
for we see them right along on the      
street1 and we may see  a nice looking  
pants to-morrow on a person who wore a  
gimlet yesterday4  ,pants with the above
 named faults usually set straight if   
the wearer  spreads his legs1 say about 
two feet at the ankles1 which shows that
  such pants would fit on a person who  
should walk in that position4 ,if  the  
upper body fits1 the change must be made
 from the crotch down1 by  starting     
there and giving more width at the      

bottom of the in-seam1 and  taking it   
off at the outside1 which gives the leg 
a different slope1 the  amount of which 
must depend upon the judgment of the    
cutter1 but ,i will  say that one inch  
goes a great ways4    ,if a cutter is   
troubled with this fault1 the best thing
 he can do is to  pin up the fold on and
 along the in-seam1 and anywhere below  
the crotch1  until the leg hangs        
straight1 then fold the pattern the same
 way and  change the draft accordingly4 
,the same effect can be obtained by     
cutting  the pattern through at the     
outside4 ,but to imitate this cutting   
through  on a pants which is made       
already1 the side-seam should be opened 
and  both sides1 back and front1 pretty 
well stretched at and below the side  of
 thigh4 ,stretching both outsides as far
 over as possible is equal to  shrinking
 both insides4 ,shrinking the inside    
would come back again1 and  make the    
pants too short1 but if the outside is  
well stretched1 that will  remain4      

,this fault may also be altered by      
opening the whole in-seam and by        
dropping all the nicks of the forepart  
to  inches below those of the  back1 and
 cutting top of back fork that much     
lower4 ,changing the sides  in a        
contrary way will accomplish the same   
thing4 ,dropping the forepart  in-seam  
inch below the back in-seam nick will   
throw the center of foot  at least #a   
in4 sidewise4 ,my experience with such  
pants is this3 ,rip the  whole pants1   
every seam of it1 cut a new pattern and 
stretch or shrink  all parts of the     
pants1 until they conform to the        
pattern4 ,it is better  to lose the     
making of the pants than to alter       
blindly and spoil the whole  of it4     
,pants which have faults contrary to the
 above description must be  altered     
contrary to the above alteration1 all of
 which must be done by  a mechanic who  
knows his business1 and one who feels an
 interest in the  work to be done4 ,it  
takes a good tailor to be a good        

bushelman4    ,the normal form requires 
the height above the crotch  of the     
whole net  seat measure1 that is about  
#i in4 for a seat of #cf1 which is long 
enough  for the body1 and for a pants   
that is intended to fit close at the    
waist4  ,but a great many persons       
require their pants higher up1 and #aj  
or more  numbers of the scale may be    
used4 ,pants which are cut higher than  
net  waist measure must be sprung out on
 top1 and on both the side seam and  on 
the gore1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,xiii1 and 
such pants should be as large as        
possible at the top1 because a pants    
must not strike the short ribs at  the  
side4 ,but for such high pants the      
buckle-straps should be entirely        
omitted1 or placed low1 so as to draw at
 the actual hollow of the waist4  ,if it
 were not for the pockets1 waist bands  
would be useless1 and no  pants require 
waist bands over the back4 ,if waist    
bands are cut over the  back1 they      
should be sewed on loose over the back1 

especially on high  waists4 ,a great    
many hold the backs full on the waist   
band1 but this is  not good1 for if the 
waist is to be smaller1 the gore in the 
back may be  cut larger4 ,sewing on the 
waist band tight1 is just as bad as     
sewing the  collar of a coat tight over 
the side of the neck4 ,where the waist  
band is  to be1 or at least where it    
ought to be1 the body turns larger      
upward and  the waist band should be    
loose1 unless the waist is quite short4 
,hip pockets are an abomination1 but    
somehow1 men want and tailors must  make
 them2 but all such pants should be cut 
high in the waist in order to  bring    
such pockets high up1 and for this      
reason the buckle strap should  be      
omitted1 or they may be sewed on the    
outside of the hip pockets1 so  that the
 pocket is above the strap1 and the     
sides should be cut as in  ,dia4 ,,xiii 
and ,,xxi4    ,some cutters require that
 the pants maker hold the back full on  
the top  of the in-seam1 and others     

again ,i have seen who require the fore 
part  stretched1 and others stretch both
 back and front crotch1 while again     
others have a stay put in the whole     
length of the crotch seam to keep  it   
from stretching1 and all may be right   
providing the pants are cut             
accordingly4    ,as far as this work is 
concerned ,i have adopted the middle    
way1 and say  that the seams should be  
sewed up even4 ,but here ,i must caution
 any one  not to stretch the in-seam    
unless he has a good reason to do so4   
,the  in-seam stretches so much easier  
than the outside seam1 and if stretched1
  without it is required1 throws the    
pants legs into a different  direction2 
that is1 too far apart at the bottom1   
and such pants will only  fit when the  
person spreads his legs apart1 say #aj  
or #ab in41 or if he  stands on one leg 
only4 ,such pants usually throw a fold  
from the instep1  up and forward1 to the
 knee at every step1 and there are      
plenty such  pants seen all over the    

country4    ,the ready-made clothing    
manufacturers are always up to the      
times1 and  catch on to such things1 and
 to-day we see a great many ready-made  
pants  with a stay tape in the in-seam4 
,some of these days pants will again be 
made with welted side seam1 which       
double stitching will make the outside  
stiff and draw that seam together1      
while the in-seam stretches1 and the    
above fault will show still worse4      
,this is one of the points which should 
be studied carefully by every  cutter   
and tailor1 but which is not considered 
by a great many1 hence by  observing the
 8hang0 of pants on persons on any      
street in any city1 we  find only a few 
perfect hanging pants1 while the great  
majority flap in  all directions4 ,there
 are certainly more mis-fitting pants to
 be observed  than any other garment4 ,i
 consider the cause of it in the greater
 length  of the parts of pants1 and also
 in the fact that they are sewed up all 
around4 ,a frock coat has a chance to go

 backward or forward by an open  front  
and open back skirt1 without showing    
wrinkles1 but pants are sewed  up all   
around1 and the least misconstruction   
will show4 ,but there is  another       
reason4 ,the waist and skirt of a coat  
is all outside of the body1  while the  
pants may be said to have a partition in
 the shape of a crotch  seam1 and which 
crotch seam is affected by every step4  
,i do not like the  idea of putting a   
stay tape in the crotch seams1 because  
all such seams  should be made up thin  
and neat1 and again1 pants makers may go
 to the  other extreme and draw the stay
 too close4    ,if pants seem to have   
the above described faults1 ,i would    
advise cutters  to give the inside of   
the bottom  more on the double1 that is1
 locating  the center of heel and foot  
more toward the inside without          
disturbing  the angle of #aj deg4 ,this 
taking off at the outside and putting it
 on the  inside must start at the thigh1
 and amounts to about  at the knee1 than

  what it is at the bottom4    ,in      
cutting and making pants1 or any other  
garment1 a cutter must know  whom he is 
trying to fit1 and for what occupation  
the garment is to be  used4 ,it wants to
 be considered as to whether the person 
mostly stands or  sits4 ,a person who   
wants a suit for a wedding requires a   
different thing  entirely than a person 
who hitches up horses or who works in   
the field1  or digs in a trench4 ,a     
tailor requires a larger pants waist    
than a clerk1  and any tailor who       
ignores this fact is mostly found       
squatting down with  the top button of  
his pants open4 ,now1 if a person who   
writes all day  wants to sit down       
comfortable when he works he must have a
 pants which is  loose1 and even too    
loose when he stands or walks1 but that 
can not be  helped1 and a customer      
should be so told when he orders his    
pants1 and  he can have his choice4 ,but
 it must be observed that persons who   
sit a  good deal and want a loose waist 

require the allowance in front and side 
and the back slope should be made       
liberally large1 in order to obtain  a  
longer seat1 even if the seat shows     
surplus cloth when standing4 ,a  long   
back slope prevents the pants from      
pulling up from the bottom1 when        
sitting down1 and we find that pants    
which fit very neat at the seat when    
standing1 are more apt to crawl up when 
the person sits down1 than such  pants  
which show surplus length of seat when  
standing4 ,but right here let  me warn  
of an error into which many cutters     
fall3    ,a pants cut on certain lines  
or angles1 like ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx and   
,,xxi1  requires a certain amount for   
fork and a certain amount for back      
slope1  or length for the seat4 ,each   
has a certain function to perform4 ,not 
enough fork1 and too much back slope1   
will allow a man to wear such a  pants1 
but the seat will wrinkle too much4     
,contrary1 too much fork may be  drawn  
backward to supply a short seat1 but    

such a pants will never hang  or feel   
comfortable1 unless the surplus1        
whatever or wherever it is1 is  thrown  
to where it is wanted by stretching     
certain parts1 as described  elsewhere4 
,the same may be said about allowing    
cloth for a large waist1  which requires
 a certain part to be allowed in front  
and a certain part  at the top of side4 
,surplus cloth on the top of side1 which
 ought to be  in front1 will be thrown  
forward1 and form a fold1 starting at   
the side  of thigh1 running forward1 and
 when a person sits down1 he will have  
his  whole lap full of cloth4    ,such  
are points which nobody will ever be    
able to teach to a certainty1  or to    
learn from the books4 ,all that can be  
done by a teacher is to  point out      
causes and effects and approximate      
amounts for alteration2 and  a cutter   
must use his brains to pass judgment as 
to the amount taken  off here1 and given
 there1 in each individual case1 and    
that the ever  varying forms of men will

 require an ever watchful cutter to fit 
it  with such garments as a changeable  
fashion from time to time requires4     
,learning rules or going to cutting     
schools and hanging up a diploma near   
the cutting board don't make successful 
cutters4 ,after receiving certain       
instructions1 a cutter must get the     
8right hang0 of it by experience1  and  
if he is a 8natural born0 cutter1 he can
 use a horse shoe or a boot  jack for   
his rule1 and he will succeed as easily 
as a fish learns to  swim1 but if he is 
not a natural born cutter1 or it may be 
better said1 a  natural born ,fitter1 he
 must acquire the 8,art0 by hard study4 
,illustration          ,,stripes4       
,if ,pants are cut from striped goods1  
the stripe should run parallel  with the
 center line of the angle of #aj deg41  
both in front and back1  though on the  
forepart it may be located an inch      
sidewise on the top of  the waist2 but  
the back part must have its stripe on   
that line4 ,this is  important to bear  

in mind1 particularly on large pants1   
which are to be  seen often with the    
stripe running inward or outward4 ,on   
plain goods it  makes no difference     
where the seams are cut1 but on striped 
goods the  forepart should be cut narrow
 at the side of the thigh1 and broad at 
the  side of the bottom in order to run 
the stripe parallel with the side seam4 
,it is quite an accomplishment to be    
able to determine the location of  the  
seams on all kinds of pants without     
causing them to lose their  balance4    
,the top of the front may be cut  full  
waist for the middle  sizes1 but the    
smaller sizes must be cut large enough  
to make room for  the button-hole fly   
and the pockets4 ,on large-waisted      
pants1 it may  save a good deal of      
piecing to cut the top of the forepart  
broad1 and  even as wide as the angle of
 #g deg41 and then cut the pockets      
forward  independent of the side seam2  
but if the material is striped1 the     
stripe  will be too crooked over the    

center of the front4 ,on the front1 the 
stripe may run #a in4 to the side of the
 top of the center-line on all  pants1  
but on large waists1 it may run #b in4  
sidewise on top4 ,on the back  the      
stripe must run with the center line4   
,on a vest the stripes should run at    
right angles with the pockets1 and      
nearly parallel with the front edge4 ,on
 all cut-a-way coats1 run the  stripe   
with the front plumb line4 ,on the back1
 run it with the edge of  the back tack1
 and with the edge of the side of the   
back skirt as well as  with the edge of 
the front skirt1 so that the stripes fit
 to the pleat2  but on straight coats1  
the stripes should run parallel with the
 front  edge1 even if the back edge is a
 trifle bias4    ,on the side-piece1 the
 stripe should run nearly with the back 
when they  are sewed together1 and at   
the same time the stripe of the         
side-piece  and skirt below should run  
nearly in the same direction1 or as near
 as  possible4 ,on the sleeve1 the      

stripe should run with the front sleeve 
base4    ,illustration                  
,illustration          ,,coat ,,and     
,,vest ,,bases ,,and ,,the ,,angle ,,of 
#ace ,,degrees4      ,scale3 ,one-half  
breast and #b in41 divided into #bj     
parts4 ,the common  inch produces breast
 size #ce4 ,bases3 ,see ,fig4 ,i and    
,,ii and ,dia4 ,,xi and  ,,xii4 ,fig4 ,i
 shows the angle of #ace deg4 to be     
applied in measuring the  shoulder      
slope4 ,the angle of #ace deg4 is the   
base4 ,the cutter is to find  the       
variation1 which is seldom over  inch   
higher or lower1 but the angle  of #ace 
deg4 will fit #di in every #ej cases4   
,fig4 ,i shows the angle of #ace  deg4  
over the back as well as over the front4
 ,in this position the two  angles of   
#ace deg4 cover two backs and two       
fronts4    ,the center of the back and  
center of the front represent the center
 of  each angle of #ace deg41 as the    
center of back and front1 a hole being  
cut for the neck to pass through4       

,dividing the angle of #ace deg4 in the 
center of the back or center of the     
front leaves half an angle of #ace  deg4
 on each side of the back and each side 
of the front4 ,the two halves  again    
united will form another full angle of  
#ace deg4 placed on the body1  as shown 
on ,fig4 ,,ii with the front line       
running forward #ae deg4 of the  plumb  
line1 and after a hole is cut for the   
neck the back line can fall  down to the
 center of the back1 closing into the   
top of the shoulder1 for  the shoulder  
slope is within the angle of #ace deg4  
,taking away #ae deg4 in front of the   
plumb line leaves #abj deg41 or #b      
points of the circle1 as shown in ,dia4 
,,xi and ,,xii1 each containing #fj     
deg4 ,the center of the #abj deg4 and   
the center of #ace deg4 represent a     
space at the top of the shoulders1 which
 may be used for the shoulder  straps on
 military or society coats4 ,the        
shoulder seam is cut through  according 
to style or notion1 and the forepart and

 side connected under  the arm with the 
center of the back and the center of the
 front running  parallel1 as in ,dia4   
,i2 or the back running parallel with   
the plumb line1  as in ,dia4 ,,ii4      
,either the front or back line may be   
used as a base1 as in ,dia4 ,i1 or the  
back line and plumb line1 as in ,dia4   
,,ii4 ,with the help of the diagrams1   
the bases ought to be plain to everyone4
 ,yet the following in addition  might  
be said3 ,the angle of #ace deg4 is  of 
a circle2 cut on the double1  it will   
give  of a circle when spread apart4    
,three-fourths of a circle  represents  
#c squares1 and a vest or coat1 or any  
garment worn around the  neck and       
shoulders1 consists of a  circle1 or of 
#a circle less #a square4  7,see ,dia4  
,,xi and ,,xii47    ,when the square is 
cut away from the center of the circle1 
and a hole cut  in the center large     
enough for the neck to pass through1 and
 the front  edges are again connected1  
then it will fit the whole outside of   

the  human form1 except the sides below 
the arm4 ,the square cut out of the     
circle takes away all shoulder slope4   
,each of the two backs and fronts       
requires a reduction of #bb deg41 as    
shown in ,fig4 ,i2 hence1 #d times #bb  
deg4 will take up the full amount for   
both shoulders4 ,if each back and  each 
front requires a reduction of #bb deg41 
it will require #de deg4 or  half a     
square to be cut out on each side of the
 body1 as in ,dia4 ,,iv and  ,v4 ,thus  
the bases are3    #ast4 ,the full       
circle4    #b;d4 ,three-fourths of a    
circle4    #c;d4 ,three-eighths of a    
circle1 or #ace deg41 for the center of 
the back  and front4    ,the angle of   
#ace deg4 is again divided into #d main 
parts1 as #ij1 #de1 #cj  and #ae deg41  
and may be divided into as many minor   
divisions as fancy  will admit1 or      
points to be found in the variation of  
garments1 as in  ,dia4 ,,xii-,a4    ,to 
measure the shoulder slope as shown in  
,fig4 ,i1 is a thousand times  better1  

and more reliable1 than the so-called   
upper and lower shoulder  measures1 or  
whatever such measures may be called4   
,but for all that1  actual practice in  
taking this measure will show1 that even
 here some  guess work must be done1 and
 while ,i have said elsewhere that the  
shoulder slope should be measured1 and  
that it can be measured1 as  indicated  
in ,fig4 ,i1 yet it is equally true that
 that measure can be  learned to be     
taken by sight1 and such eye-sight      
measure may be acquired  in one week1 or
 after handling and measuring one dozen 
persons4 ,after  the eye of a cutter has
 caught the normal form of the          
shoulders1 his  eyesight will teach him 
most all variations1 as good as a       
measure4 ,that  measure1 taken by       
eyesight1 or with any other instrument1 
must be taken  over a coat with a       
good-fitting shoulder1 or better1 over a
 good-setting  shoulder2 for a shoulder 
may fit the body and still may not set  
well4    ,again ,i must repeat this     

warning3 ,be slow in making changes1    
especially  at the shoulder seam1 for   
,dia4 ,,ii will fit #di out of every #ej
 persons1  providing the sleeve does not
 drag the shoulder out of place4    ,the
 single garment1 spread upon a flat     
surface1 represents a circle1  less one 
square1 or less #ij deg41 or a reduction
 of #de deg4 at each  shoulder2 but it  
must not be supposed that the form of   
,dia4 ,,xi1 after  having the edges of  
the square connected again1 will form a 
slope like  the shoulders of a human    
form1 that is a slope of #bb deg4 ,the  
shoulder  slope is calculated at #bb    
deg41 but that is only on each side of  
the  body1 and the center of the front1 
and the center of the back run down     
more straight1 and in order to bring the
  of a circle1 like ,dia4 ,,xi1 in      
harmony with the shoulders1 the centers 
of back and front must be pushed  nearly
 straight down1 and then the sides will 
rise up1 and form the slope  for the    
shoulders4    ,if ,dia4 ,,xi is cut from

 a piece of stiff paper1 and the edges  
of the  square are connected1 and that  
circle formed in one continuous shape1  
like that of a lamp shade1 it will form 
a slope of #cj deg41 or near that       
slope1 and corresponds to all diagrams1 
with a square of #ag1 and with  the     
plumb line base in front1 from which    
base the shoulder slope is #cj  deg41 as
 shown in ,dia4 ,,ix4    ,here it will  
be noticed that the bases1 as adopted in
 this work1 mean  something more than   
imaginary lines4 ,they mean actual      
slopes of the human  form1 and          
quantities which are parts of the square
 or compass1 and which  instruments are 
known and used by all civilized nations4
    ,illustration          ,illustration
          ,,squares ,,of ,,seventeen    
,,and ,a ,,half ,,and ,,twenty4         
,the squares of #ag and #bj1 and lines  
#i and #aa1 are both permanent  bases4  
,but the lines which connect the back to
 the foreparts1 or to the  side piece1  
or join lines #i and #aa over the front1

 require especial  explanation4 ,line #i
 on the front base of the angle of #ace 
deg41 and line  #aa on the front        
plumbline1 meet in the center of the    
square of #bj and  in the position as   
indicated on ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,line #i is    
broken between the  side-piece and back1
 and turned #ae deg4 upward1 but will be
 of the same  space as the square of #bj
 when the side-piece and back is        
connected4 ,the  square of #ag is       
one-eighth less than the square of #bj1 
and harmonizes  with the division of the
 circle1 as shown on ,dia4 ,,xii4    ,in
 both ,dia4 ,,xi and ,,xii1 the circle  
has a full diameter of #dj numbers1  and
 the triangle as shown in ,dia4 ,,xii1  
has #ce numbers on each line1  making an
 equi-lateral triangle4 ,one-half of the
 circle is used as a  square of #bj1 as 
in ,dia4 ,,xi4 ,one-half of the triangle
 is used as a square  of #ag as in ,dia4
 ,,xii4 ,the square of #bj represents   
the amount used for  the whole half     
vest1 seam and surplus included1 and the

 square of #ag  represents the half     
breast measure4 ,the correct combination
 of the square  of #bj and #ag1 can only
 be used on a vest with one seam in the 
center of  the back1 and one seam under 
the arm4 ,on coats the square is        
enlarged  on account of more seams and  
other reasons elsewhere explained2 but  
for  all that1 the squares of #bj and   
#ag are a true guide for all coats4 ,it 
will be seen that the squares of #bj and
 #ag1 as used in this book1 are  not    
imaginary lines1 but based upon a       
scientific calculation from the  center 
of a circle or the corner of a square1  
which are used by the whole  civilized  
world as points1 or fixed facts4    ,by 
further examination of ,dia4 ,,xi and   
,,xii1 it will be found that all  the   
essential points necessary in cutting a 
vest can be found within a  circle1 and 
without using a scale--all of which is  
further explained in  the article       
entitled1 8,scientific ,calculation40   
,another reason why lines  #i and #aa on

 the front bases are adopted1 is the    
following3 ,lines #i and  #aa meet in   
the center of the square of #bj4 ,line  
#i runs at right angles  with the center
 of the front4 ,line #ad on the back    
runs at right angles  with the center of
 back4 ,when the garment is upon the    
body1 both run in  the same direction1  
are in their natural positions1 and on a
 square of #bj4    ,for the reason that 
the vest is cut off below the waist1 it 
can be cut on  the square of #bj without
 piecing the pattern4 ,but on a coat    
this cannot  be done without piecing the
 pattern1 and in order to obtain a draft
 or  a pattern1 without lap or piecing1 
the square of #bj is transformed into   
an angle of #ae deg41 which contains the
 square of #ag as for a vest1  to which 
is added one-half for one extra seam1   
and which one-half more  causes the     
squares of a frock coat to be #ah and   
#bj4 ,and for reasons  explained further
 on in this article1 and in ,dia4 ,,iii1
 a three-seamed  sack must have the same

 squares as that of a frock coat of five
 seams4    ,the following points must be
 well observed3 ,dia4 ,,ii has a square 
of  #ah1 or half an inch extra on the   
plumb line base1 which half an inch  is 
allowed for one extra seam4 ,the square 
of #ag would answer the same  purpose if
 each side piece and each forepart was  
allowed one extra seam2  but this would 
cause the pattern to be pieced1 or      
allowance would have  to be made for one
 seam1 which will always be found       
troublesome1 and for  this reason the   
square is enlarged to #ah4 ,but1 to be  
more definite1 the  square should be #ag
 and half an inch for all sizes1 because
 if  an inch  is allowed for a seam1    
this seam requires the same for all     
sizes4 ,perhaps   inch will do the same1
 or maybe better for a snug fit1        
particularly  for fine work1 where  of  
an inch is amply sufficient for a seam2 
but  ,i call it  an inch for the reason 
that  of an inch more or less in  an    
entire coat is nothing1 particularly    

when we must admit that no two  cutters 
will take the same measure1 and that    
very few cutters are able to  take the  
same breast measure twice with the same 
result1 if done so in  using a blank    
tape4    ,though the square of #ah will 
result in a square of #bj1 we find that 
if  we observe ,dia4 ,,ii correctly1 the
 back square1 which ends at point #ae1  
on  the center of back1 sinks below line
 #aa in front1 and becomes larger and   
consequently a reduction is made at that
 line between the back and side  piece1 
in order to re-establish the square of  
#bj4 ,again1 if we observe  ,dia4 ,,iii1
 or the combination of frock and sack   
7and the vest as well17  we find that by
 turning the sidepiece forward at the   
waist it will turn  backward about  inch
 at the shoulder blade1 and although the
 top of  the sidepiece and back lap 1   
the square remains #ah for a            
three-seamed  sack coat1 the same as for
 a frock4 ,the fact that ,i did not     
observe this  simple point at the       

beginning1 but made the square of a     
three-seamed sack   less than a frock   
coat1 caused me to devote years in      
making alterations4    ,dia4 ,,iii is   
the best combination of frock1 sack and 
vest1 which ,i have  been able to secure
 in #aj years of diligent study4 ,though
 the vest is not  shown on it1 because  
too many lines spoil the illustration1  
but anybody  may observe the sameness in
 ,dia4 ,,xii4 ,now1 supposing the vest  
to be put  in ,dia4 ,,iii1 we simply    
reduce its square  under the arm to make
 it #ag  and place the height of back at
 #ad4 ,the combination places the       
different  backs at the following height
 above line #i4 ,frocks at #ad1 vests at
 #ad1  and sacks at #ac4 ,the squares of
 #ah and #bj are1 of course1 for a coat1
  but this does not destroy the         
principle of cutting a vest over the    
same  pattern1 simply reducing it  inch 
in width under the arm1 and cutting  the
 top of the back  lower1 or #c1 as shown
 in the ,vest ,dia4    ,neither the     

square of #bj nor the square of #ag1 nor
 the angle of #ae deg41  nor any other  
angle or square1 will fit the body      
precisely1 either of  which must be     
adjusted to the requirements of the     
form2 but when we know  what a certain  
square or angle represents1 and how they
 harmonize with  the slopes of the body1
 we can very easily deduct or add to1 as
 the case  may require4    ,now1        
although certain garments require more  
or less in the square1 ,i  will1 in     
comparing1 always mention the squares of
 #ag and #bj as on a  vest1 for the     
reason that line #aa meets line #i at   
its center--that is1 at  the center of  
the square of #bj--;from which point all
 calculations are made  for turning or  
changing the lines over the back4 ,the  
square of #ag1 with  the angle of #ae   
deg4 attached in front1 produces both   
squares #ag and #bj  on this particular 
spot1 though the square of #bj is broken
 on line #i2 and  within the squares of 
#ag and #bj all calculations are made in

 the article  on 8,narrow and ,broad    
,backs40 ,by the terms3 square of #ag1  
or #ah1 or #bj1  etc41 ,i mean to say   
that the distance from the centre of the
 back to a  certain base in front is    
such a distance4 ,it may be that if ,i  
should say3  a right angle1 so and so   
far from back to front1 would be better 
grammar1  but ,i think1 a square of so  
and so much will be fully as well1 and  
may be  better understood by the        
majority of cutters and tailors4        
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,diameter ,,of ,,both ,,shoulders      
,,from ,,side ,,to ,,side4      ,this   
article was written as long as ten years
 ago1 and ,i have often  thought to omit
 it1 but have come to the conclusion    
that it is worthy  of a place1 and in   
fact1 ,i may build better than ,i       
expect4 ,dia4 ,v1 ,,vi1  ,,ix1 and all  
others with a square of #ag represent   
the diameter of the  shoulders from side
 to side1 either on the half1 as ,dia4  
,v and ,,vi1 or  the full1 as in ,dia4  

,,ix and others4 ,fig4 ,i represents the
 full diameter1  but cut in two at the  
center of the body4 ,the width of the   
shoulders  may be measured1 but         
ordinarily that measure may depend more 
upon the  condition of the garment over 
which it is to be taken1 than upon the  
body itself4 ,as a rule1 that measure   
should be taken only for extremely      
narrow or extremely broad shoulders1 and
 even then1 there must be a good  deal  
of guess work4 ,as long as we allow the 
width of the shoulders #i  at #fj deg4  
we will never miss the mark from size   
#ce down to the smaller  sizes4 ,when we
 come to size #dj we have enough with #i
 to #i4 ,forty-three  is plenty wide    
with scant #i1 and size #ej is large    
enough with #h4 ,here  is a difference  
of  number on each side of the coat1 in 
#be sizes1 and  that calculation can be 
depended upon4 ,the width of the        
shoulders does  not grow in proportion  
to the circumference of the breast1 and 
in cases  of doubt as to how much to    

allow at #fj deg41 it is better to allow
  inch  too little than  inch too much4 
,a shoulder which hangs too far over  to
 the arm1 and which is often noticed on 
large sizes1 is worse than a  shoulder  
which is too narrow4 ,again1 a broad    
shoulder requires a scant  sleeve head1 
while a narrow shoulder can stand more  
fullness on the  sleeve head4    ,but ,i
 have started out to describe the       
shoulder of a man1 as they may be       
narrow or broad1 and in order to be     
quite plain1 ,i will take up size #ce1  
and use the term inches1 for this       
particular article4 ,on a draft of a    
size #ce the width of one shoulder1 from
 back to side1 is about #h in41 and     
which is  inches less than the half     
square of #ag1 but the  inches are  used
 up for seams4 ,on top of the shoulders1
 the body is nearly flat1 both  across  
the back and front1 and it is quite flat
 on a great many persons1  but for our  
purpose all may be called entirely flat1
 and that part can be  measured with a  

straight edge when the coat is on the   
body4    ,on this part1 and above1 the  
coat must swing the same as a piece of  
cloth will swing on a straight pole4 ,if
 that part of a coat fits nicely1  a    
great many other faults are usually     
forgiven1 but if the shoulder  breaks   
somewhere1 complaint will be made4 ,it  
will be seen by this1  that the square  
of #ag is not an imaginary quantity1 but
 that it is in  actual harmony with the 
shoulders1 the same as the angle of #ae 
deg4 is  in harmony with the forward    
slope of the center of front4 ,there is 
the  square for a regular part of the   
form1 and the angle of #ae deg4 is for a
  irregular part4    ,on the lines of   
the square of #ag a coat or vest can be 
folded up flat1  and this can best be   
seen on a vest1 which has no sleeves to 
hinder it  from folding flat4 ,a        
good-fitting vest can be folded up1 on  
the square  of #ag1 and laid on a flat  
table1 and it may lie there for ages    
without  wrinkling1 but can not be so   

folded on any other square4 ,the angle  
of  #ae deg41 or the front part will    
always run forward of the center of  the
 back1 when folded up4 ,when a garment  
is put on the body1 it has  to perform  
two distinct motions1 and the center of 
the back must be  considered the hinge  
on which the coat swings1 just as a door
 swings on  its hinges4 ,from the center
 of the back the garment is swung       
sidewise1  and locates from back to     
side1 not from back to front1 and for   
this  reason must be fitted on straight 
lines in the back and in the front4     
,from the side of the back1 the garment 
is swung forward to the side of  front1 
and both side of back and side of front 
may be called hinges  again1 because the
 body is really flat between all these  
points1 and from  the side of front the 
garment is swung again to the center of 
the front1  where it runs up and down   
parallel with the center of the back4   
,while  it makes this motion it loses   
nothing in length1 but its whole width  

of  #bj in4 will be divided between the 
two half diameters of the shoulders     
sidewise1 and between the diameter from 
back to front4    ,the upper part1 or   
that portion of a garment which is      
located on top of  the shoulders1 must  
perform a different motion4 ,while the  
lower part  swings around the body in a 
circle1 the upper parts move on straight
  lines1 on which the whole back is     
swung forward and the whole front is    
swung backward until they both meet4    
,the shoulders lose in length1 but      
nothing in width1 which remains the same
 on the body as it was on the  flat     
table4 ,a garment must swing1 and       
balance itself on the diameter  of the  
shoulders1 and there a coat must fit the
 body1 and perhaps this  is the only    
place where a garment should actually   
fit1 as far as the  conception of an    
actual fit goes1 in garment fitting4    
,but now1 we must consider a broad and a
 narrow shoulder1 and observe the       
results of putting the same coat on both

 forms3 ,the center of the back  can not
 give1 and the cloth must be thrown over
 the shoulders forward1  and in a       
circle2 and if anything is in the way   
which takes up more cloth1  like a      
broader shoulder1 which throws it       
sidewise1 the front will be the  loser1 
that is1 the front will be too small4   
,here may be found one of  the reasons  
why some men require a larger coat in   
proportion to their  breast measure than
 others4 ,the broader shoulder requires 
a larger coat  around the sides and     
armhole than the narrow shoulder1       
because the broad  shoulder throws more 
cloth in that direction1 but the measure
 around the  solid chest indicates      
nothing of that kind4    ,let us suppose
 we have before us a man to be measured 
for a coat1 and  when we observe him1 we
 make up our minds that he measures #dj 
inches  breast4 ,we draw the tape and it
 records #ch4 ,we measure again with the
  same result4 ,next we take the proof  
measures1 and we take the so-called     

upper and lower shoulder measure1 short 
measures1 long measures1 and what  not  
measures1 then we add and subtract      
again1 according to our learning1  and  
then we cut the coat very carefully1 so 
that every fraction of the  proof       
measures conform to our lines2 and when 
the coat is done and the  customer puts 
it on1 behold6 it is too small all over1
 the coat is thrown  onto the shelf1 and
 afterward sold for half price1         
notwithstanding that  it was cut        
promptly to the balance measures4 ,on a 
narrow shoulder we  observe the contrary
 results as to the fit1 and we will     
always find that  a narrow-shouldered   
person can wear a smaller coat around   
the arms and  the back4    ,in regard to
 a narrow shoulder1 we may consider the 
form of an erect and  full-breasted male
 and that of a female4 ,as far as the   
upper part of  the body is concerned1   
they must both be treated on the same   
principle4  ,according to their breast  
measures1 both need a smaller coat      

around  the arms and back and a larger  
portion must be allowed in front of the 
breast4 ,strip a female's breasts1 and  
she will measure several inches  less1  
and that amount has to be taken off in  
front1 and that form will  correspond to
 the form of an average male form4 ,now1
 to fit a female with  a coat draft for 
a male1 we must use a #cd pattern for a 
#cf breast1 and  allow #a in4 over the  
front of each half garment1 and reduce1 
by gores1  whatever the waist is smaller
 in front and below the fullest part of 
the breast4 ,a coat for a full-breasted 
male must be treated on the same        
principle1 only less prominent4    ,i do
 not claim to know much about cutting   
and fitting garments for  females4 ,that
 takes quite another calculation1 but if
 ,i would start in  to-day to learn to  
fit garments for females ,i would start 
out by taking a  draft for a man's coat 
for my guide1 and use a scale of #b to  
#c sizes less  for the female2 allow #a 
to #a in4 at the front of each half     

breast and  reduce at least #a in4 at   
the waist below each breast4 ,i would   
not change  the shoulders1 nor the      
hollow of the back1 except the location 
of the  seams1 but ,i would go to work  
and find the normal proportion between  
the  waist and the hips of a female1 and
 thus produce spring enough over the    
hips1 which nature has wisely provided  
very large for females4 ,the center  of 
back and front ,i would cut nearly on   
the same plan as ,dia4 ,,ii1 only  more 
prominent behind4    ,i throw the above 
out as a hint for cutters who may go to 
female  tailoring4 ,the time will soon  
come when men will pay more attention to
  cutting and fitting female garments   
because it will pay better1 and some    
one may possibly be benefited by the    
above suggestions4 ,knowing what ,i     
know to-day1 ,i would1 if ,i were       
fifteen years old again1 or even twenty1
  go to work and learn ,,female         
,,tailoring4    ,illustration           
,illustration          ,,angle ,,of     

,,fifteen ,,degrees ,,for ,,coats ,,and 
,,vests4    7,,see ,,dia4 ,,xiii47      
,if we take a square piece of paper and 
encircle the body from under the  arm to
 the waist it will fit perfectly1       
although1 when on the body1 the  front  
will be #ae deg4 higher than the back2  
and if we want to form a  level waist1  
we must attach a piece to the bottom of 
the front1 amounting  to #ae deg41 as   
shown in ,dia4 ,i and ,,iv4 ,if we      
extend that piece of  paper1 or cloth1  
down to the side of the thigh and seat1 
we must cut it  open at the side of the 
hip and below the waist1 and insert a   
piece to  accommodate the spread of the 
body1 as shown in ,dia4 ,i4 ,but the    
spread of  the garment all around the   
lower body could be made better if two  
cuts  were made--one at the side and the
 other near the back--representing the  
front and the back seam of the frock    
coat sidepiece4    ,dia4 ,i represents  
the body of a coat1 that is1 from arm to
 hip1 in a  position which it has to    

assume1 when upon the body1 and it must 
be  observed that a garment1 spread on a
 flat table1 can only be in harmony     
with the body at one point2 all other   
points must differ1 and can only  be    
correctly located by their true relation
 when on the body4 ,this1  ,i claim1 is 
nearly the natural position of the      
garment when upon the  body1 and would  
require no seam at all below the arms   
and above the  waist4 ,if this piece was
 not wide enough we could enlarge it to 
the size  desired1 and wherever         
necessary1 and would make no difference 
in the fit  so long as the seams are    
allowed for4 ,when taken off the body it
 will  fit the flat table just as well  
as it did the form of a man4 ,in this   
position of a coat1 as on ,dia4 ,i1 or a
 vest1 as on ,dia4 ,,iv1 it makes but   
little difference if the side seams are 
cut a trifle more forward or            
backward--the fit will be the same4     
,i therefore claim that all changes in  
the seams1 as the vest1 frock and  sack 

coats1 must be made while in position1  
as in ,dia4 ,i and ,,iv1 or at  least   
must be made on lines #i and #ad1 etc41 
whenever the back is obliged  to assume 
an unnatural position1 as in ,dia4      
,,ii--all of which is further  explained
 in the article on 8,narrow and ,broad  
,backs40    ,but we must go back to the 
angle of #ae deg4 ,if we take a square  
piece  of cloth1 representing the       
breast measure of a #ce coat1 we will   
have  #ag inches each way4 ,if we add an
 angle of #ae deg4 to one of the sides  
it will give us an angle of #ae deg41   
although the top point is lost1 but     
would form like the upper part of ,dia4 
,,xiii4 ,the angle of #ae deg4 spreads  
of its length2 consequently it spreads  
#e in4 in #bj1 as seen in all  diagrams 
in this work1 with the front angle of   
#ae deg4 attached4    ,line #bj is      
located at the top of the hips1 where   
the body spreads  considerably1 and the 
hip measure may be considered as large  
as the  breast measure1 though in       

different positions1 as the hips spread 
more  sidewise4 ,the front line of the  
attached angle of #ae deg4 is1 at the   
same  time1 the front line of the angle 
of #ace deg41 as well as the front line 
of the square of #bj4    ,now observe1  
that in changing the lines on the square
 of #bj in4 into a  square of #ag1 with 
the angle of #ae deg4 attached in front1
 the front  does not change a particle1 
but the back1 at the waist1 is detached 
and  thrown backward and upward1        
becoming larger at the waist and smaller
 on  top1 and forming the angle of #ae  
deg4--all the spread being toward the   
hips and seat1 representing a garment   
without lap and without gore at the     
hips and seat1 and without any waist    
suppression4 ,below the front of the    
waist the body recedes1 and the front of
 the angle of #ae deg4 is cut off       
accordingly1 and runs straight down with
 the plumb line1 as shown in the        
diagrams4    ,but this is not all4 ,the 
angle of #ae deg41 as in ,dia4 ,,ii1    

represents a  straight but pointed or   
funnel-shaped piece of cloth1 has its   
proper size  at the bottom of the       
armhole1 at the hips and seat1 and front
 of the  chest and waist1 but is too    
large at the hollow of the waist above  
the  hips and seat2 and in this position
 gores must be taken out to imitate  the
 hollows of the waist at the side and   
back4 ,not all is taken out1 but  only a
 portion1 just to show the outline of   
the form2 and if everything  else is    
well proportioned1  inch more or less   
cloth at the waist will be  of little   
consequence4 ,it is of more importance  
to ascertain the depth  of the seat and 
hollow of the waist1 so we may know     
where to run out the  gores1 or where to
 make it the most hollow4    ,line #ag  
on the front plumb line may be          
considered the hollow of the  waist for 
the normal form1 and the seat may be    
located at #bg or #bh1 but  on extremely
 short or slim persons these points     
should always be measured  with care4   

,in cutting according to the rules      
adopted in this work1 the  outside of   
the elbows can always be depended upon  
for the location of  line #bj1 and the  
hollow of the waist is #b numbers       
higher1 all to be  measured from top of 
back4 ,for the seat point1 take the     
largest part or  the upper point of the 
thigh bone1 which corresponds to the    
wrist1 the  arm hanging down4    ,if the
 half breast can be fitted with  breast 
measure and #b in41 all  seams included 
except what the lapel takes up1 the hip 
can be fitted  with  hip measure and #b 
in41 all seams included except the lap  
of the  buttons and button-boles1       
because the hip requires nothing in     
consequence  of expansion1 as the chest 
does4 ,if the hip measure is the same as
  the breast1 say #ag in4 for the half  
coat1 then it follows that the  hip1 at 
the waist seam1 may require #ai in4 and 
about  in4 for lap of  button-holes and 
buttons1 making #bj in all4 ,this must  
be the result1 no  matter if the draft  

is made like ,dia4 ,i or ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,in
 ,dia4 ,,ii it will  be seen that       
whatever the hips spread at line #bj is 
again reduced by the  gore in the center
 of the forepart1 as well as by a small 
reduction from  the center in front4 ,it
 should be observed1 that1 although the 
breast and  hip may measure the same1   
the form is different at the hip than at
 the  breast4 ,the front is compressed  
and spreads sidewise at the hips1 just  
like ,dia4 ,i4    ,observe that the     
square of #ag and the front angle of #ae
 deg4 measure #bb  in4 for size #ce1 at 
line #bj2 and it follows that #b in4 may
 be reduced on  and along line #bj4     
,dia4 ,,ii1 and all others laid out in  
the square of #ag1  are not only based  
on the above calculation1 but are       
founded upon years  of trial1 and       
virtually the calculation is made from  
facts so obtained4  ,this is also the   
way in which all the other diagrams have
 been produced4  ,the angle of #ae deg4 
will fit the normal form at the arms1 at

 the largest  part of the seat1 at the  
side of the thigh1 and the front of the 
chest1  but is too wide at the hollow of
 the waist behind1 and stands off below 
the front of the waist1 and must be     
reduced by gores as shown4 ,on the      
back1 it must be considered on a plumb  
line1 spreading sidewise and  forward4  
,the trifling spread below the side of  
the thigh is taken off by the gore  in  
the center of a frock coat forepart1 and
 is turned forward between the  skirt   
and forepart2 while on a sack coat it is
 partly cut off between  the back and   
side seam1 which is further forward than
 the frock coat  skirt seam1 and by     
which the gore in the center of a frock 
coat forepart  is balanced4 ,now1 in    
this position1 it might be reasonable to
 make  calculations for waist reduction 
by comparing breast1 waist and seat     
measures1 but as the waist is not to be 
fitted at all it would be useless       
unless we could take the measure just as
 wide as we wanted the coat at  the     

waist1 which cannot be done             
satisfactorily2 therefore1 we take the  
average1 and cut out the waist in       
proportion to the breast measure4  ,but 
it can be done only after the angle of  
#ae deg4 is established1 and  recognized
 as a base1 and understood1 according to
 the principles adopted  in this book4  
,but ,i must again call the attention of
 the reader to the plumb base on  the   
back4 ,the angle of #ae deg4 is based   
upon a plumb line on the center  of the 
back1 both shoulders and the seat       
touching said line1 and the  front line 
of the angle of #ae deg4 running forward
 and away from the body  below the pit  
of the stomach1 while the back runs     
straight down1 as a  coat must hang1 as 
is shown in ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,the back plumb 
line is not given  in ,fig4 ,,ii1       
because it would interfere with the     
diagram above4    ,i do not claim that  
all men walk in that position1 but tell 
a customer  to stand before you for     
measurement and he will usually assume  

that  position4 ,in walking1 a man is   
inclined to lean the upper portion of   
the  body forward more or less2 but     
leaning forward or backward the line    
from  the shoulders to the seat is      
carried along1 and the base will remain 
the  same from the shoulders to the     
seat1 and in a large majority of cases  
no  attention need be given to altering 
either back or front2 but there are     
extremes1 and these do require a change 
there4 ,a form may be stooping1 or      
erect1 but still may carry the shoulders
 and seat on a plumb line4 ,such  forms 
require no change at the waist1 but at  
the neck only2 and a cutter  must always
 observe such positions1 because no     
so-called balance-measure  will indicate
 it4 ,but there is the so-called        
8sway-back10 who carries his  shoulders 
way back of the seat4 ,such a form      
requires his coat reduced at  the waist1
 not between the back and sidepiece1 but
 between the sidepiece  and forepart1   
unless a large waist requires or takes  

up that space again4  ,we often see     
large-waisted and always erect forms    
with their coats too  tight over the    
back tack1 because the waist is not     
large enough for  the hips4 ,how much   
the reduction at the side should be must
 always be  determined by the judgment  
of the cutter2 but an outlet at the side
 of  the forepart is more important than
 anywhere else--it will never do any    
harm and may become very handy sometimes
 when it is least thought to be         
necessary4    ,when a coat swings off   
behind it can easily be brought to the  
body by  stretching the whole back and  
back of side seam1 from the             
shoulder-blade  downward2 but when it is
 too close there1 more width must be    
obtained by  the help of the outlet at  
the side of the waist1 and by stretching
 the  sidepiece downward on the         
forepart1 in order to force the width   
backward4  ,coats which appear too close
 at the back tack are usually so because
 the  hips have not cloth enough1 when  

an outlet is very handy again2 but this 
seam should always be sewed by hand1    
because a machine-sewed seam will  show 
when let out4    ,all outlets around the
 neck do more harm than good2 and if    
they are  left on1 for the purpose of   
trying on1 they should be cut away      
before  the collar is sewed on1         
especially on heavy goods4 ,a coat that 
is too  loose around the neck can always
 be brought to the body by taking up the
  shoulder seam1 which will reduce the  
length of the forepart1 and leaves  the 
back correspondingly longer4    ,the    
normal form represents a slope of #ae   
deg4 forward from neck to  waist1 but a 
large-waisted form may represent an     
angle of #bj deg41 and  consequently    
such a form requires an addition in     
front of waist and  outside of the front
 base2 and ,i find that a large-waisted 
form requires  from #a to #a in4 extra  
allowances in front of waist on a vest4 
,the angle  of #ae deg4 measures #e     
numbers at line #bj1 hence every #c deg4

 measure  #a number at the point4 ,every
 corpulent individual should be measured
  according to the front slope of the   
chest4 ,i know it is an odd measure  for
 a beginner1 but a little practice will 
make it plain work1 and it  will pay    
well4 ,i do not claim that the measure  
must be taken absolutely  correct1 but  
it should be nearly so1 so that an idea 
can be formed of  what a person may     
want4    ,the angle of #ae deg41 with a 
width of  breast1 or its equivalent1 as 
#ag  numbers for a vest1 or #ah numbers 
for a coat1 at the starting point of a  
garment1 which is the angle of #ace deg4
 within the angle of #ae deg41 as  seen 
in ,dia4 ,,xiii1 contains the proper    
spread for1 and around the hips  and    
seat1 as required for a coat4 ,for waist
 suppression at the sides and  the back1
 gores are cut out1 according to notion 
or style1 or according  to the nature of
 the garment4 ,it must be remembered    
that the position of  the shoulders and 
the whole forepart is the same in all   

diagrams in this  work1 and that the    
change from the square of #bj to the    
square of #ag is  made by changing the  
back1 or the sidepiece1 or both4    ,now
 it will be seen1 that if either of the 
back or sidepiece is moved1  but kept   
together on their connecting points1 as 
on lines #i and #ad1  etc41 the gores   
must change1 as well as the height of   
the back above  the bottom of the       
armscye and on line #i over the front4  
,thus the back  or the sidepiece may be 
laid in any conceivable shape1 and in   
any  conceivable square1 and the fit    
will be the same1 though all points     
assume a different relation to the      
starting point4 ,the angle of #ae deg4  
is here adopted because it conforms to  
the slope of the body and not as  a pet 
idea1 and it is also adopted for the    
reason that a garment can be  laid out  
in it1 without piecing the garment1 or  
cutting out unreasonable  amounts as    
gores4    ,dia4 ,,ii shows the whole    
coat on the angle of #ae deg41 and the  

gores  around the waist are for a normal
 form of a size #cf1 that is1 the waist 
suppression is one-ninth part of the    
whole breast1 or about #b in4 in  both  
gores around the side and the back1 on  
the half coat4 ,this is the  reduction  
within the angle of #ae deg41 when on   
the flat table1 but when  sewed         
together1 the garment will form like    
,dia4 ,i1 or nearly so1 and when  in    
that position1 the seams around the back
 of the waist may be changed  some1     
without destroying the balance1 but as a
 general thing the seam  between the    
back and sidepiece should not be        
tampered with1 unless there  are good   
reasons1 such as style1 or for erect    
forms1 where the folding up  of the     
sidepiece will contract the gore between
 the back and the front  skirts or close
 it up altogether1 or in extreme cases  
produce a lap over  the seat4 ,fuller   
waists are usually of erect forms1 and  
for such the  under-arm cut may be      
reduced for the larger waist1 and the   

gore between  side and back may be      
reduced at and below the tack4 ,that    
cut1 or gore1  between the back and the 
sidepieces will always be a difficult   
thing to  handle1 for the reason that it
 is a curved gore4    ,if we would cut  
the back of ,dia4 ,,ii #a in4 wider over
 the blade on one  coat1 and cut another
 one #a in4 smaller at the same point1  
without  changing the lengths of the    
back above the armhole1 we would spoil  
both  of them1 unless we know how to    
make things right again by sewing the   
parts together4 ,on the broad back1 with
 a straighter seam1 the sidepiece  would
 have to be reasonably stretched over   
the blade1 or the back held  full1 which
 is the same1 while the more narrow and 
more curved back must  be sewed on the  
sidepiece rather close1 though it will  
never do to hold  the sidepiece full1 or
 stretch the back there4    ,dia4 ,,ii  
is so calculated that both sidepiece and
 back must be sewed on  even over the   
curve1 above line #i1 and the best of   

tailors will sometimes  be compelled to 
baste them together several times more  
than they like1  before they get them   
right1 or the way it is intended4 ,here 
we can find  the reasons why certain    
parts can be worked the very contrary1  
and  both ways will fit1 and for this   
reason a newly-arrived jour4 should  be 
thoroughly instructed by the cutter1 as 
to how things must be put  together     
according to his cutting1 and the cutter
 himself should be a  good tailor1 or at
 least he should know how it is to be   
made1 even if he  can not do the sewing4
 ,a cutter who is a thorough tailor     
himself will  always be a better cutter 
than the one who only knows how to cut1 
all  other things being equal4    ,the  
angle of #ae deg41 as used in this work1
 is calculated for the normal  form of a
 male4 ,males with extra large hips     
require more spread toward  the side of 
the hips1 and must be placed under the  
head of abnormal  forms4 ,the normal    
form of a female is very large over the 

hips1 and the  angle of #ae deg4 would  
not produce spread enough for a female4 
,it is  true1 this work has nothing to  
do with the cutting of female garments1 
but ,i think it important enough to     
point out the above difference between  
the male and female form1 for it may    
become of use to some of my readers4    
,soon the time will come1 and1 in fact1 
it is now and has been for some  time1  
when men will cut and superintend the   
making of fine female  garments1 just as
 females now make the common garments   
for men4 ,there are  millions in it4    
,the angle of #ae deg4 is taken as a    
standard in this work1 because it  is   
easily found by spreading two lines     
one-fourth of their length4  ,it is also
 a common division of the               
square--one-sixth4 ,it is also the      
twenty-fourth part of a circle4 ,it is  
not an unknown quantity1 but  something 
recognized and acknowledged by the whole
 world4 ,now1 if anyone  contends that a
 larger angle1 or a smaller one1 is     

better1 ,i will not  find fault1 but ,i 
would like to see the proof4    ,the    
angles1 as laid down in this work1 are a
 standard--something rational  to go    
by--the same as a pound or a yard4 ,our 
grocer never sells an actual  pound of  
coffee1 nor does our dry goods merchant 
sell us an actual yard  of calico1 and  
we all know it1 but we are satisfied    
with it because we  can do no better4   
,it serves the purpose4 ,i claim that   
two angles of #ae  deg41 formed in      
funnel-like shape1 and connected at the 
widest part like  ,dia4 ,,xiii1 will at 
least come nearer to the shape of the   
human form than  a square piece4        
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,the ,,square ,,and ,,the ,,circle4    
,the square is a very handy instrument  
for the use of men1 both in  squaring   
material for building or for squaring   
our actions in the  intercourse with    
mankind2 but as the ,creator is greater 
than the  creature1 so is the circle    
greater than the square4 ,the great     

majority  who may read these lines will 
acknowledge the existence of a ,supreme 
,architect of the ,universe1 no matter  
by whatever name it may please          
individuals to call him4 ,even the      
so-called radical unbeliever when       
cornered will acknowledge that the      
,universe has been made and is kept up  
by something which he cannot comprehend1
 but which he cannot deny1 but he  calls
 it ,nature4 ,very well1 let us call it 
,nature1 and give praise to the  work of
 ,nature4 ,but the great majority have  
seen fit to call it ,god1 and  this name
 is again spoken differently by every   
language of the globe1 and  ,i suppose  
that is the case with all intelligent   
beings on any heavenly  body that may   
exist4 ,this being the case the name is 
nothing4    ,now1 when ,god made the    
heaven and the earth1 he did not use a  
square1  for there is nothing that      
indicates anything like a square4 ,the  
whole  ,universe is laid in a circle1   
and as far as our vision reaches we     

behold  everything round1 and1 according
 to ,genesis1 when ,god made a covenant 
with ,noah1 ,he sealed his promise with 
the beautiful curve of the rainbow4     
,every star is round1 so is the earth1  
and even its three-fourths surface  of  
water1 which constitute the mighty      
oceans1 are in a perfect circle2  and   
everything that grows upon the earth is 
more round than square4 ,we  may go     
anywhere1 and every thing that we behold
 points out that the ,great  ,architect 
of the ,universe formed his plans within
 the radius of a circle4    ,in humble  
imitation of this divine principle1 ,i  
have adopted the circle1  and parts of  
the circle1 within which ,i form my     
plans for the covering  of men1 which   
became necessary after ,adam and ,eve   
had tasted of the  forbidden apple1     
which1 ,i suppose1 was round1 too4 7,see
 ,dia4 ,,xi and ,,xii47  ,but ,i may    
have made mistakes4 ,making mistakes is 
natural to every person4  ,the brute    
creation make no mistakes1 but do they  

advance8 ,the spider  weaves his web as 
perfectly as his ancestors wove theirs  
thousands of  years ago1 and in all     
probability will do so for thousands of 
years to  come4 ,he makes no mistakes   
because it is not in his nature to do   
so2 but  neither does he improve2 he can
 not even transmit his skill to any     
living  being1 unless of his own specia4
 ,man alone is capable of improvement1  
and  because of this1 he is liable of   
making mistakes2 for1 what would become 
of him if he proved successful in all   
his undertakings8 ,making mistakes  is a
 wise check1 which the ,creator has     
implanted in the nature of man to       
prevent him from getting ahead faster   
than what is good for him4    ,the wise 
man learns from mistakes1 either from   
his own1 or those of  others1 and the   
man who never makes a mistake1 will     
never grasp a  valuable idea4 ,mr4      
,ingersoll pitches into ,moses1 because 
that master mind  has made mistakes1 as 
he claims1 in writing ,genesis1 but     

notwithstanding1  the name of ,moses is 
before the world1 as a mighty pillar of 
truth1  and no man has yet been able to 
improve upon the ten commandments1 as   
laid down by that great lawgiver4 ,if   
some of the old masters have made       
mistakes1 they certainly have left us   
some valuable substance1 from which     
sensible men will gather wisdom1 while  
fools throw slurs4    ,illustration     
,illustration          ,,vests4         
7,,see ,,dia4 ,,iv47      ,the square   
consists of #bj numbers4 ,height of     
back1 #ad2 height of front1  #i2        
shoulders at an angle of #ace deg42 top 
of back1 #c2 gore under the  arm1  at   
line #ae1  at line #ag1 #a at line #bj4 
,sink the front bottom  of the forepart 
#ae deg4 for a pretty square bottom4 ,on
 the garment from  the neck to the ankle
 the vest is on a square of #ag4 ,on    
this square the  height of the back     
remains #ad1 but on the front plumb line
 it is #aa2 the  gore under the arm is  
#c1 and the bottom is square1 while the 

front has  an angle of #ae deg4         
attached4 ,the square of #ag1 with the  
angle of #ae  deg4 in front1 is         
virtually nothing but an angle of #ae   
deg41 having1 at  the starting point of 
the garment1 a width of #ag numbers1    
according to  scale4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xii  
and ,,xiii47    ,top of back is as wide 
as the angle of #de deg4 at the neck1   
but may be  made #c4 ,the back must be  
that wide1 in order to bring the spring 
of the  collar to the side of the neck1 
and again1 in order to enable the vest  
maker to sew the vest back all around1  
and turn the whole vest through  the    
neckhole4 ,if that hole is too small1   
the back is apt to tear1 while  the vest
 is turned4 ,the bottom of the collar   
band is on a straight line  from #aa1 on
 the plumb base line1 through #e on the 
top square line4  ,this collar band1 as 
it is here cut1 requires that the top   
and side of  the back must be stretched1
 say  inch1 on each side1 and close to  
the  shoulder seam1 and it is for this  

reason that the top of the back should  
be #c wide1 in order to bring the       
stretch as far forward and to the side  
of the neck as possible4    ,if this is 
worked right it will make a neat collar1
 and a neat shoulder1  but if the vest  
maker can not be depended upon1 it is   
better to allow   inch spring1 and      
starting said spring at the middle of   
the shoulder  seam1 which is about #b   
in4 from point #e1 and sew the back even
 on the  neckband1 but in no case must  
the back be held full4 ,if anything is  
to be the fullest1 it must be the       
neckband1 which must in all cases  be   
cut plenty long1 and the vest maker must
 be instructed to fit the  two together1
 as above directed4 ,the junction of the
 neckband1 or the  so-called standing   
collar1 is further explained in the     
article on  8,collars40    ,it will be  
seen that ,dia4 ,,iv has the shoulder on
 the plain angle of #ace  deg41 and that
 there is neither lap nor gore4 ,a      
trifle spring that is  required for a   

vest must be worked in by stretching the
 top of the back  close to the shoulder 
seam4 ,dia4 ,,iv is so represented for  
the following  reason3    ,i intended   
that ,dia4 ,v and ,,vi should both be   
represented with a perfect  shoulder    
slope of #bb deg41 and that ,dia4 ,,ix  
should have the perfect  shoulder slope 
of #cj deg41 all of which were made over
 the same pattern  as was ,dia4 ,,iv4   
,but ,dia4 ,v and ,,vi are cut  of a    
number further sidewise  at the side of 
the neck1 because in the position of the
 shoulder seam of  ,dia4 ,v1 the        
neckband can not be cut on1 for the     
reason that the spring  for the side of 
the neck would locate too far in front4 
,both ,dia4 ,v and  ,,vi are for        
illustration only4 ,if ,i had placed a  
spring of  inch at the  top of the      
shoulder seam1 the shoulder slopes as   
shown in each of ,dia4 ,v  and ,,vi and 
,,ix would have to be changed1 and make 
the angle of #ace deg4 a  mess of       
confused lines4    ,if the collar opens 

very low1 and a very hollow curve is    
required1 the  upper part of the        
neckband must be cut higher1 say one    
inch1 at the  upper end1 but the same at
 the shoulder seam as shown in ,dia4    
,,iv4 ,this  will give a chance to cut a
 nice curve or open front1 especially   
for a  double-breasted vest1 intended   
for very open fronts4 ,but cutting the  
neckband higher on the upper end        
destroys spring at the neck1 and for    
this reason an extra spring must be     
given in the shoulder seam4 ,if the     
neckband is raised behind1 say #a in41  
an extra spring of  inch must be        
allowed at top of the shoulder seam1 no 
matter if it is cut like ,dia4  ,,iv1 or
 if  is allowed already4 ,forty years of
 tailoring has convinced  me that ,dia4 
,,iv is the best for all kinds of vests1
 because the front  collar may be curved
 at pleasure1 and the collar is simply a
 piece added  for the turn-down part1   
and always fitting to the neck-hole of  
the vest4  ,in order to make the top    

collar conform with the curve of the    
neck-hole1  the inside part of it must  
be pretty well stretched at the most    
prominent  part of the curve4 ,dia4 ,,iv
 is plain1 and is cut with the neck-band
 on4    ,dia4 ,v is cut in a square of  
#aj1 or  breast and #a in42 the         
neck-hole  is cut out at the center of  
the neck1 or at #fg deg41 hence the back
 and  front of the neck-hole are equal2 
the shoulder slope is taken out at the  
center of the neck1 and when connected  
will form the same as ,dia4 ,,iv1       
except the neck-band4 ,dia4 ,,vi is     
,dia4 ,v simply doubled4 ,the solid     
lines  represent one-half of the angle  
of #ace deg41 or an angle of #fg deg4   
,the dotted lines passing through the   
neckholes of ,dia4 ,,iv and ,,vi may be 
called the grand center lines1 and would
 fit a human form decapitated2  and it  
will be seen that the actual neck-hole1 
from that line1 is just  half the       
diameter of the neck4    ,the waist of  
the vest is calculated upon one-ninth   

less than the breast1  whole measure4   
,the under-arm cut of 8one0 makes a     
close waist1 and may  be reduced to     
three-fourths1 or even to nothing1 for a
 large waist4 7,see  ,odd ,forms47 ,the 
square of #bj1 as for a vest1 is reduced
 in front from the  pit of the stomach  
down1 or where the body turns backward1 
and whatever  is taken off in front is  
again added behind2 hence the spring    
over the  seat1 which really does not at
 all change the dimensions1 but gives it
 a  different direction by reducing the 
front and by enlarging the back1 and    
when all this is done the waist is      
reduced1 say #a in41 under the arm1 as  
in ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,the turn of the front is
 higher up than in the back1 and the    
front is to be even between #i and #ae  
on the front base1 from which points  it
 turns backward both up and down4       
,dia4 ,,iv represents a vest to close   
all the way up to the neck4 ,it gives   
the whole front edge1 and may be cut    
lower to satisfy notion or style4  ,the 

whole front of ,dia4 ,,iv is such that  
it can lose one seam to turn  in the    
edge1 but if the vest is otherwise      
well-balanced it will not  injure it if 
the seam is allowed to remain1 and the  
edge bound as it  is4 ,a difference will
 be noticed between the straight front  
of a coat  and the straight front of a  
vest4 ,on a coat usually worn by the    
clergy  the buttons and front of        
button-holes may be placed one seam back
 of  the front line of the angle of #ace
 deg4 down1 as far as line #ag1 which   
results in the same thing as when we cut
 the front off on that line1 and  sew it
 up with a seam4 ,the vest is to fit a  
trifle more snugly at that  point1 and  
after one seam is turned in1 or cut off1
 there still remains  one-half for lap  
of buttons and button-holes4    ,to     
regulate the top buttons of the vest and
 coat1 the top coat button  may be      
placed  inch lower than the top vest    
button1 and the coat will  cover the    
vest when buttoned1 providing the coat  

lapel is #a in4 in front  of point #i4  
,it is of very great importance for a   
cutter to be able to  regulate the above
 points1 and this is one reason why ,i  
have placed all  coats and vests on the 
same base2 which is on the angle of #ace
 deg4 ,the  vest arm-hole touches lines 
#i and #ad at the bottom1 and the angle 
of #de  deg4 in front1 but may be  inch 
deeper and  more forward for a person   
who desires plenty of room4    ,at the  
breast line1 a vest is plenty large     
enough if it is  breast and  #b in4 ,at 
the hip line1  hip and #b in4 is large  
enough1 because vests  are left open    
below the hollow of waist4 ,if a vest is
 to be sewed up  clear down over the    
hips1 the bottom must have a width1     
which corresponds  with the hip measure1
 when sitting down1 after it is finished
 and  buttoned up1 or  hip and #b in41  
the same as the breast4 ,at the waist1  
a vest must be treated on the same      
principle as a pants1 that is1 it  must 
be made wide and comfortable enough for 

the waist when a person  sits down4 ,at 
the waist1 a vest is shut up all around1
 and can not give1  and provisions must 
be made for expansion when sitting4     
,such allowance  depends upon the       
condition of the body at the waist1 and 
like on pants1  this measure may be     
taken in a sitting position4 ,but a     
variation may be  made between persons  
who are mostly standing1 and those who  
are mostly  sitting4 ,the sitting person
 requires a larger waist partly allowed 
at the  side1 but mostly in front4 ,the 
normal form requires the vest as large  
at  the waist as it is over the hips1   
and the square of #bj gives that width1 
by reducing about #a in4 at the         
under-arm cut at the waist4    ,in ,dia4
 ,,xiii will be observed a dotted gore  
in the back1 extending  through both    
pants and vest1 which gore is cut out on
 a pants1 but on a  vest it is usually  
buckled up4 ,a vest made without        
buckle-straps should  have that gore cut
 out4    ,at the front of the collar1   

the underside should be cut so that when
 it  is sewed on it will pull the vest  
part over so much as to hide the under  
side when the top collar is finished4   
,the inside part of the top collar  must
 be pretty well stretched back of the   
curve1 and if the material is  not bias1
 and can not stretch1 a 8,v0 must be    
sewed in1 after which the  whole top    
collar must be shaped as it is required 
by the curve4 ,this may  cause some     
extra work for the maker1 but that is   
the only way to produce  a low opening  
with a hollow collar1 especially on     
double-breasted vests4  ,the edge of a  
collar should be finished about #a in4  
above the shoulder  seam1 and the under 
collar cut away entirely4 ,over and     
across the back  there is no need of    
anything but the double top collar1     
which is simply  sewed together with a  
seam1 which is pressed out1 the top     
collar doubled  up in shape1 and the    
back stitched on top of the collar4 ,on 
heavy goods1  the top collar seam of a  

vest should be drawn together to make it
 thin4    ,the front and the bottom of a
 double-breasted vest requires especial 
attention1 in order that the parts which
 lap under1 or over1 do not show  the   
front corners on each side1 or that the 
top side runs too high up4  ,rounding   
off the corners pretty well will remedy 
the evil to some extent1  but it does   
not look well1 or a customer may order  
an even bottom of  front1 as in fact1   
all such vests should be4    ,the       
following will make a good front3 ,sweep
 from the point of the angle  of #ace   
deg4 through the bottom of the front    
angle of #ae deg41 and add  say  to     
inch more roundness to the bottom at the
 center between the  front edge and the 
buttons4 ,that sweep may be used for the
 whole bottom  of the front4 ,from the  
front line go back #b in4 for the button
 line1  and allow in front of line #i #a
 in41 and on the bottom allow #a in4 in 
front of the front line1 and draw a     
straight line for that front edge4  ,if 

the lap is to be more or less1 set the  
buttons that much backward or  forward  
as the case may be4 ,a double-breasted  
vest which is to button  clear up to the
 neck must have at least a gore of #b   
in4 under the lapel1  and the top button
 must be set back as far as the width of
 the lapel4  ,a double-breasted vest    
should have a small gore under the      
collar1 even  if the collar is low down1
 and the depth of the collar must be    
made  according to the measure1 and the 
collar itself may be made straight or   
with a large curve the same as shown on 
,dia4 ,,iv4    ,the sweep from the point
 of the angle of #ace deg4 will give the
  whole bottom of the forepart as shown 
on ,dia4 ,,xi and ,,xii1 and the        
double-breasted front may be shaped just
 like it1 but may have a trifle  more in
 the center of the angle of #ae deg41   
and that trifle may be  obtained        
complete by a sweep from #c on the plumb
 base line through the  front angle of  
#ae deg4 only4 ,it should be observed   

that each particular  double-breasted   
vest requires particular care1 in order 
that the bottom  of the front1 as well  
as the front itself1 and the collar is  
correct1  and that the buttons are on   
their places4 ,if it is desired to sink 
the  front down further than the sweeps1
 add equal distance1 say  inch at the   
button line and at the front edge1 and  
both will remain in balance4 ,it  will  
also be found that a double-breasted    
vest can be improved1 by making  the    
back #ad long above line #i1 because the
 front will have a better  chance to    
settle in its proper place4    ,nor     
should it be forgotten that a           
double-breasted vest1 which has to lap  
over the oval center of front1 can not  
set without a break somewhere1  unless  
there is a gore cut at the waist1 or    
under the collar2 or1 the  front is     
drawn in pretty well under the collar1  
which is the same thing  as cutting a   
gore4 7,see ,supplement47               
,illustration          ,illustration    

,,frock ,,and ,,sack ,,coats ,,and      
,,vests4      ,diagrams ,i and ,,iii are
 given for illustration only4 ,dia4 ,,ii
 may be used  as a model by which to cut
 all frock coats4 ,a pattern of ,dia4   
,,ii was used  to form ,dias4 ,i and    
,,iii1 and they should all come out the 
same as to the  fit4 ,it may be1 that in
 transferring ,dia4 ,,ii in the         
different positions1  a slight          
difference may have been made1 but it   
must be admitted that  it is rather a   
difficult undertaking to transfer the   
same pattern into  different positions  
and always have it work out the same to 
the smallest  fraction4 ,dia4 ,,ii      
should be considered the parent pattern1
 and after the  division of the angle of
 #ace deg4 has been mastered1 anyone who
 knows his  ,a1 ,b1 ,c's ought to be    
able to make the coat draft4 ,but as    
this work is  intended for beginners as 
well as for the old and experienced     
cutters1 ,i  consider it worth the while
 to give a minute description of its    

cuttings  as well as of its making up4  
,be it understood that the angle of #ace
 deg4 and its divisions1 as bases1  are 
the same for all frock and sack coats as
 well as for vests4 ,all must  be worn  
over the same body1 and all must have   
the same base4 ,but although  coat and  
vest surround the same form1 each has a 
different function2  hence the          
difference in the construction of the   
neck-hole1 the centre of  the front and 
other points4    ,notice this fact--that
 the top of the back of a vest is placed
 at #c from  the point of the angle of  
#ace deg41 or  lower than on a frock    
coat4 ,now1  in the first place1 the    
vest collar should be lower than the    
coat collar2  and secondly1 the front of
 a vest is cut nearly straight down at  
the  waist and all surplus cloth cut    
away sidewise1 or buckled up behind--all
  of which has a tendency to shove the  
vest backward and upward to the  neck4  
,hence the top of the vest back is      
lower than the top of the coat  back4   

,it should also be noticed that the vest
 and sack coat back1 above  the armscye1
 up to #ace deg41 is shorter than the   
frock coat2 and it is  so for the reason
 that is set forth in the article on    
8,narrow and ,broad  ,backs40    ,a vest
 is intended to fit best in front1 and  
the height of back should  never be less
 than #ad above line #i in front1       
because a short back over  the blade is 
apt to cause the front to be too long   
around the neck4 ,on  the other hand1 a 
coat is intended to fit best in the     
back1 and for this  reason a sack coat  
back should never be longer than #ac4   
,the sack coat1  being some shorter in  
the back and looser at the side1 has a  
tendency to  fall away from the neck2   
and for this reason the top of back is  
placed at  #c4 ,again3 ,the overcoat    
must cover the collar of the undercoat4 
,for this  reason the top of the        
overcoat back is placed on #b4 ,the side
 of neck1 at  #fj deg41 should not be   
closer than #c or #c1 which allows the  

collar to  be sewed on easily at the    
side4    ,now1 it is true that there can
 be no difference between the height of 
the backs of frock and sack undercoats1 
and ,i do not claim that there is  any1 
although ,dia4 ,,ii has a height of back
 of #ae1 on line #i of the front  base2 
but according to the combination of     
frock and sack 7see ,dia4 ,,iii71  when 
the sidepiece is turned down and in at  
the waist1 and all parts are  even at   
the back and the under armhole1 then the
 frock and sack backs are  equal in     
height4 ,the foregoing comparison1 as   
well as what has been said  in the      
combination of sacks and frocks1 is     
based upon more than ten years  of      
experience1 and it is repeated here for 
the reason that this question  has been 
more or less agitated in the different  
fashion journals for many  years without
 any satisfactory result to cutters in  
general4    ,for the frock coat in      
particular see ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,it may be   
useless to  recapitulate their points1  

but ,i must again remind the student of 
the  fact that the connection of the    
sidepiece and back must be made at lines
  #i and #ae4 ,the back and sidepieces  
are on even lines at the waist1 and     
below line #i and #ae1 and it is only   
necessary to allow one seam at the      
bottom of the sidepiece1 as the back is 
in one piece4 ,in order to get  the top 
of the sidepiece long enough for the    
back1 the sidepiece must be  run out    
into the armhole for that purpose1 with 
a small gore of say   inch at the       
armhole4 ,it is important to know       
exactly where to make the  connection1  
and instruct the journeyman to sew up   
and down evenly1 or to  stretch or      
8full0 certain parts above and below1 as
 the case may require4    ,the gore     
between the sidepiece and the back      
always requires careful  cutting1       
especially over the blade4 ,in ,dia4    
,,ii the gore at lines #i and  #ae is   
put at #a number1 and ,i must here state
 that this is as much as any  coat may  

require1 and if the gore there is made  
only 1 it will not spoil  the coat1 but 
it may do good1 and make the coat feel  
easy in the back4  ,a coat cut out too  
much there will feel small in the back  
whenever the  arms reach forward4 ,it is
 true1 this can be helped by cutting the
 armhole  forward1 but will be at the   
expense of some other point1 which will 
be  disturbed4 ,a coat cut too tight at 
that point will show too much back  at  
the point of the blade1 both in length  
and in width1 and ,i will here  again   
say that if you desire a loose fitting  
coat1 a coat that fits1 too1  cut the   
gore at that point not over 1 running up
 and down1 and making  the same         
connection at the point of the blade and
 at the hollow of the  waist as in ,dia4
 ,,ii4    ,i have been particular in    
writing about the gore between the      
sidepiece  and the back1 and a cutter   
must always watch the same1 because the 
peculiar making by this or that         
journeyman will draw it out into a      

different shape4 ,the back may be called
 the face of a coat1 and it  requires   
constant watching on the part of the    
cutter4 ,at lines #i and #ae  the back  
should not be cut less than three       
numbers wide1 and the whole  calculation
 in regard to the height of a frock coat
 back is made with a  back1 three       
numbers wide at that point1 and the     
calculation for a sack  coat back is    
made with seven number width at line #i4
 ,at the waist the  width of the back   
depends a good deal upon the size of a  
coat4 ,a large  size may have enough    
with two numbers1 while a small size may
 have two  and a half numbers4 ,a back  
#b in4 wide at the tack1 will not be far
 out  of the way for almost any size4   
,the position of the back and sidepiece 
requires both to be sewed on  smoothly4 
,never hold the back full over the      
blade1 nor sew a large seam  over the   
curve4 ,a back may easily be made too   
full or too long by fulling  it over the
 blade1 either by doing so in basting or

 in sewing a deep seam  over the curve1 
and the more curved the sidepiece is the
 more will be the  danger of fulling the
 back1 or going to the other extreme and
 stretching  it4    ,below the lines #i 
and #ae the back and sidepieces should  
also be sewed on  smoothly1 particularly
 so for pretty straight forms4 ,should  
the form bend  a trifle forward1 without
 being stooping1 the sidepiece may be   
stretched1  or the back held full1 say  
to  of an inch1 at the hollow of the    
waist4 ,or1 if your coats have a        
tendency to be a trifle loose behind1   
stretch the back sidepiece a trifle     
above the waist1 and you will find  that
 it will improve the coat4 ,or1 if the  
coat is a trifle loose after  it is     
made1 you can improve it greatly by     
stretching both sidepiece and  back2 and
 if the lining is not long enough it    
must be opened and let out1  or pieced  
if necessary4    ,it is wonderful what a
 different appearance you can give to   
the back of  a coat by making the back  

and sidepiece lining longer or shorter4 
,the  peculiar manner of different      
persons in sewing the seams1 or basting 
in  the lining1 will also have a decided
 effect upon the appearance1 if not     
upon the fit itself1 and a good cutter  
must understand all that2 that is1  he  
must be a good coat-maker1 otherwise he 
will always be in trouble4 ,in  recent  
years the question has often been asked3
 8,can a cutter be a good  cutter       
without knowing how to make a coat80 ,i1
 for my part1 would answer3  8,yes1     
certainly2 but if he could make the     
garments he cuts1 his services  would be
 worth a hundred per cent4 more40       
,but right here let me put another      
question3 8,would not a good coat-maker 
be a better coat-maker if he knew the   
principle by which the coats  he makes  
are cut80 ,and1 in answer1 again ,i say3
 8,yes2 a thousand  times40 ,cutting and
 making must go hand in hand1 and       
whenever a cutter  understands both1 he 
is able to give positive instruction to 

a journeyman  workman4 ,if not1 he is   
not 8boss0 over the back shop4    ,over 
and along the hips the forepart and part
 of the sidepiece should be  stretched1 
say about  to  of an inch1 and the top  
of the skirt should  be shrunk about    
that much1 so that the gore in the      
skirt1 which is not  cut out1 is shrunk 
away2 and the gore between the sidepiece
 and front1  which is cut out1 is       
stretched out again at the seam1 and the
 skirt1  forepart and sidepiece are     
sewed up just as shown in ,dia4 ,,ii4   
,the gore  between the sidepiece and    
forepart might be run out at the waist  
seam and  both cut equal without        
stretching or shrinking either part1 but
 it will  throw the fullness over the   
hips too much on one point4 ,the back   
skirt  seam should be oval to imitate   
the seat4 ,at the center of the back1   
and  from the tack downward1 the frock  
coat is sprung out1 say #a inches at    
line #cj1 but said spring is again      
reduced between the back and forepart4  

,on a short sack the oval form over the 
seat can be partially produced by       
cutting the back seam oval1 which1 when 
sewed up1 will produce the oval  form4  
,but on a frock coat1 which is open     
behind1 the oval center would  simply   
produce a rounded edge at the back1 but 
not the oval shape of the  body4 ,now1  
whatever is thrown out over the base    
behind is again taken off  or balanced  
between the back and front skirt1 and   
shaped to fit the form1  will remain    
oval when sewed up4    ,the width of the
 buck skirt depends upon notion or      
style1 but when made  up the fold and   
the edge of the top tack should run     
parallel on both  sides4 ,the shoulder  
seams ought to be sewed on evenly1 but  
as the back is  always more bias than   
the front1 there is danger of stretching
 the back1  and the seam should be so   
basted on that when held up without     
strain the  back would be a trifle the  
most full4 ,it is also a good idea to   
notch the  shoulder seam in its center1 

and baste up and down4    ,in making up1
 the front of the arm-hole must be well 
stretched2 then  starting from the front
 sleeve nick up say #a in4 back of #fj  
deg4 ,for  this purpose the canvas and  
all padding should be cut into at three 
or  four places1 and fully #b in4 deep4 
,then about #a or #b in4 above the front
  sleeve nick2 the lining should be cut 
through and a 8,v0 put in4 ,all of      
these cuts should be so finished and    
again filled up1 that when the coat  is 
done no off-set will be visible on the  
outside4    ,the front of the arm-hole  
is guarded by three notches1 and needs  
no  further description2 but ,i must    
caution against an error in regard to   
the  under sleeve4 ,it is frequently    
contended that the under sleeve should  
be sewed in tightly over the sidepiece1 
but this is a mistake4 ,an under  sleeve
 which is held a trifle full over the   
back and sidepiece will 8set0  far      
better than one that is stretched away  
at that point4 ,this is on the  same    

principle that the top sleeve will not  
set well if stretched at and  above the 
front sleeve nick1 or anywhere else4    
,when a back under sleeve drags or shows
 too much sleeve1 it is a sign  that the
 arm-hole has too much space somewhere  
over the back1 and it  must be reduced4 
,stretching the sleeve will never make  
it better4 ,but  by sewing in that part 
of the sleeve a trifle full1 ,i do not  
mean that  we should stretch the        
arm-hole that trifle4 ,it should be     
secured by  a suitable stay1 or a solid 
thread drawn in1 which will keep it from
  stretching1 though the sleeve is a    
trifle full4 ,all linings around the    
back and arms must be loose and large1  
and may be cut bias4 ,the back  lining  
should be provided with a fold as well  
as the under arm cut4    ,when ,i use   
the term shrink or stretch1 ,i mean just
 what ,i say--not to  hold one side     
full1 and sew it together1 and then     
press it out as best  you can4 ,a seam  
sewed1 and particularly a machine-sewed 

seam1 cannot be  stretched              
satisfactorily1 for it will largely     
return and draw the other  side full4   
,but a seam stretched before sewing up  
will remain so4 ,this  holds good on all
 seams and on all garments1 particularly
 so on pants4    ,illustration          
,illustration          ,,garment ,,from 
,,neck ,,to ,,ankle4    7,,see ,,dia4   
,,xiii47      ,join two angles of #ae   
deg4 at the front of waist and back of  
seat4 ,at  a point where the upper angle
 of #ae deg4 is #ag numbers wide1 is the
  starting point for a coat or vest4    
,for the reason that the diagram        
contains the full width of a coat1 it is
 too wide for the pants1 and the  width 
is taken off at the side4 ,the front    
turns at point #ae1 where the  body     
begins to turn4 ,the pants start at     
point #ag1 and the pants and  vest lap  
#b to #c in41 just as on the body4 ,it  
is not intended for actual  cutting1 but
 simply to show the continuous form of  
the whole garment from  neck to ankle4  

,this diagram can be used for           
night-pants1 particularly for children2 
but  for such purpose the distance from 
the starting point1 at #ace deg41 to    
the crotch should be made #cj numbers1  
so that there is no strain in the  upper
 part and crotch4 ,nothing is to be cut 
out at the side1 and may be  made       
without a side seam4 ,it will well repay
 any cutter to spoil four  yards of     
muslin and make one for himself1 just to
 try it4    ,this diagram shows the     
whole outside of the center of front and
 back1  from one extreme to the other1  
and where both extremes have about the  
same circumference4 ,the bare neck and  
the two bare ankles will measure  about 
the same4 ,the largest part of the body 
is in the middle and the  center of     
front and the center of back run up and 
down in two angles of  #ae deg4 each1   
and the two angles are joined at their  
widest part4 ,this  is the side view of 
the body1 and if the body were really   
flat1 as it  appears from a side view1  

the centers of front and back of a      
garment  would have to be cut on the    
same curve as the center of back and    
front in  ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,but both centers 
are flat from side to side1 and what    
appears  a sharp edge from the side view
 of ,fig4 ,,ii is a perfect flat surface
 in  ,fig4 ,i1 and is actually flat1    
from side to side1 but bent1 as we can  
bend  a flat piece of tin1 and for which
 reason the centers of back and front   
can be fitted on straight lines1 and    
must be fitted nearly so4    ,for       
illustration we will suppose that we    
take four boards each one a yard  wide1 
and set them up in a joined angle of #ae
 deg41 like ,dia4 ,,xiii1 and  though we
 may look at its sharp edges from the   
side1 we are compelled to  use a flat   
piece of material if we will fit the    
front and back views2 and  the human    
form must be fitted just like it1 that  
is1 all cuts1 or all  wedges1 as in     
,dia4 ,i and ,,ii1 must be made1 or put 
in1 from the side1 and  the flat centers

 of front and back must run parallel to 
each other4 ,the  centers of back and   
front running parallel with the body1   
prevents the  sides of the diagram to be
 in the same harmony1 and for this      
reason the  hips1 which are the largest 
and widest part of the body1 show       
themselves  as the smallest in the      
diagram4    ,dia4 ,,xiii is one of the  
illustrations upon which ,i have worked 
for years1  until ,i have brought it out
 as it now is4 ,the idea of joining the 
two  angles of #ae deg4 at their widest 
part1 came easy enough1 but the true    
position of the two points toward each  
other1 and the fitting points1 of  all  
the garments in detail1 kept me busy for
 more than ten years4 ,to be  sure1 ,i  
did not work at it all the time1 but on 
each garment ,i cut1 ,i had  to change  
this and that1 either at the neck or    
waist of a coat or vest1  or at the feet
 or at the waist of a pants1 and the    
alterations ,i had to  make afterward1  
and other indirect losses1 such as      

misfits1 and worse1  loss of customers1 
cost me a fortune2 but ,i have the      
satisfaction of  having been able to    
write down and record my experience1 and
 if it does  me no good1 it may save    
some of my fellow men the trouble it has
 cost me4    ,illustration              
,illustration          ,,combination    
,,of ,,frock ,,and ,,sack4              
,diagrams ,i1 ,,ii and ,,iii are the    
same1 and are made over the same        
pattern4  ,dia4 ,i represents the center
 of the back running parallel to the    
center  of front1 as it must be when the
 garment is on the body4 ,back and      
sidepiece are connected at the hollow of
 the waist1 within a square of  #bj     
numbers4 ,the back's position1 running  
parallel to the center of the  back of  
the body1 requires a spring over the    
seat and hip1 starting at  the hollow of
 the waist4 ,here it will be noticed    
that that square running  parallel to   
the back of the body1 meets the seat1   
and must spread apart  to cover the     

seat1 and the inserted spring furnishes 
the cloth required  over the seat and   
hips4 ,but what is put on behind must be
 taken off in  front1 for the run of the
 square brings it outside of the body in
 front  of the waist1 and must be       
reduced #ae deg4 from the front of waist
 down1  and the bottom of the front must
 be lengthened #ae deg4 in order to make
  it level4 ,if the center of the front 
and the center of the back be of  any   
value as a base1 then the base lines    
must run parallel to the front  and     
back1 or at least they must be so       
considered in order to obtain the       
amount which gores and wedges may       
require1 or the location of the same4   
,in ,dia4 ,,ii we find the fore part in 
the same position as in ,dia4 ,i42 and1 
in fact1 all fore parts are in the same 
position1 and whatever change is  seen  
is caused by the turning of the         
sidepiece or back1 or both4 ,but the    
back and sidepieces have been changed1  
and in place of their being #ae  deg4   

out of plumb1 we find them on a plumb   
line resting at the shoulder  blade1 and
 thence straight downward4 ,thus turning
 the back base #ae deg4  will cause the 
original square of #bj to form an angle 
of #ae deg41 or  a curved line of #bj   
numbers1 which is the position of ,dia4 
,,ii4 ,this  diagram represents an angle
 of #ae deg4 at such a width that it    
will cover  the whole body1 seams       
included1 for a man's coat4    ,in order
 to find the width1 the starting point  
for a garment is at a  point where the  
angle of #ae deg4 has a width of #ag1 as
 in ,dia4 ,,xiii4  ,hence the square of 
#ag within the angle of #ae deg4 ,that  
angle of #ae  deg4 represents a sheet   
wound around the body1 which body we    
must here  consider without arms4 ,said 
sheet closes in at the breast and       
shoulder  blade1 and at the side of the 
thigh and the back of the seat4 ,in this
  position the back of the waist must be
 reduced by one or two gores1 as on  a  
sack or a frock coat4    ,now let me    

say1 that the theory of deducting the   
actual waist measure  from the breast   
measure1 and thereby finding the amount 
of gores to be  cut out in the back of  
the waist1 is a delusion1 because the   
space which  is taken up by that sheet  
at and around the waist is never        
measured4 ,it  so happens that the angle
 of #ae deg4 requires a reduction of    
about #b in4  in all at the back of the 
waist1 which is equal to #b in4 less    
than half  breast4 ,but the angle of #ae
 deg4 is always the same1 while the     
waist  proportion changes4 ,but suppose 
that the actual waist measure is as much
  as1 or more than1 the breast measure4 
,would not that same sheet1 wound       
around such a form1 require a reduction 
in the back8 ,by using two bases  in    
front1 as the front base of the square  
of #bj and the front base of the  square
 of #ag1 which are just #ae deg4 apart1 
we are able to shift the  back from one 
base to the other--not to uncertain     
points1 but just #ae deg4    ,the       

general plan upon which this book       
treats1 is to work from the corner  of a
 square1 or from the centre of a circle1
 or from certain other  angles1 such as 
#g deg41 #ae deg41 #de deg41 #ace deg41 
etc4 ,dia4 ,,iii is  made for a purpose4
 ,it is likewise drawn within the angle 
of #ae deg41 and  is intended to        
represent the difference between sack   
and frock coats4  ,dia4 ,,ii is arranged
 with a view to cutting purposes1 for   
all parts are  separate on a smooth     
surface1 not in their natural position2 
but1 by  the aid of science1 we know    
just how much they are out of their     
natural  positions4 ,dia4 ,,iii has the 
sidepiece changed1 so that it laps with 
the  forepart at the waist seam4 ,in so 
turning the sidepiece down1 the back    
will necessarily come along1 and we find
 that it has shortened one-half  of a   
number1 on line #i over the front4 ,by  
turning the sidepiece in at the  waist1 
the top of the back sidepiece seam falls
 backward one-half1 thus  making the    

square #ah for a three-seamed sack1 as  
it is for a five-seamed  frock4    ,the 
top of the sidepiece and back lap two   
seams1 as they must be when  sewed up1  
and the armholes are the same for both  
sack and frock coats4  ,the lap of the  
sidepiece and forepart1 and the lap of  
the bottom of the  sidepiece and top of 
the back skirt1 are explained as        
follows3 ,a sack  coat is wider at the  
back of the waist and runs down         
straighter than  a frock4 ,a straight   
line from the shoulder blade down to the
 seat is  shorter than a line running   
down closer and in a greater curve      
toward the  body4 ,the circumference    
which the sack coat occupies at the back
 of waist  is larger than that of a     
frock4 ,the closer the garment fits to  
the body  of the back the narrower it   
must become1 and at the same time it    
must  become longer4    ,now1 the       
position of the sidepiece in ,dia4 ,,iii
 just furnishes that extra  length      
required1 as well as the greater        

reduction in width4 ,when the  sidepiece
 is drawn even with the forepart at the 
waist seam1 the lap of  the sidepiece   
and the top of the skirt behind will    
crawl inward to the  more hollow part of
 the waist1 and the extra length is     
thereby taken up4  ,the spring is not   
used in a sack1 neither is the larger   
gore between the  back and front2 but   
both are omitted and a gore of about #a 
in4 is cut  out1 as for a sack1 thus    
obtaining the larger width for the      
shorter back4  ,the frock coat back has 
lost  in length1 hence the frock coat   
back on  ,dia4 ,,iii is #ad1 while the  
sack coat back is only #ac1 for the     
reason  that it is broader at the       
junction with line #i over the front4   
,when both  backs are thrown down and   
into a square of #bj1 or in the shape of
 ,dia4  ,i1 the frock coat back reaches 
line #i at a depth of #ad1 and the sack 
coat back reaches line #i at a depth of 
#ac1 but actually both have the  same   
length from ,o4 ,the extra length of the

 frock coat back and sidepiece  above   
the bottom of the armhole is really a   
delusion1 but the extra  length of the  
sidepiece at the waist and at the back  
is used up1 while  the closer frock coat
 waist crawls more inward to the body4  
,compare ,article on 8,narrow and ,broad
 ,backs40 ,for illustration1 let us     
suppose we have before us a man with a  
well-fitting sack1--not one that  fits  
skin-tight at the waist and spreads out 
below over the seat1 but one  that is   
just what the ideal sack should be1     
which is loose1 yet showing  the        
outlines of the form4 ,say we button it 
in front1 and draw over the  waist a    
tape-line4 ,we shall find that the more 
we draw it together the  looser and     
wider it will appear to be2 and the     
bottom of the back will  become too     
short1 because the line closer to the   
body requires more  length1 which in    
this case will be drawn up from the     
bottom4 ,it shows too  much width1      
because the circle closest to the body  

requires less of it4  ,but more of this 
will be said in the article on 8,erect  
,forms40    ,for particulars1 it should 
be observed that ,dia4 ,,iii is in a    
square of  #ah1 and that ,dia4 ,,viii1  
or the three-seamed sack1 is in the same
 square4  ,a three-seamed sack would    
naturally be two seams less in the      
square than  a five-seamed frock1 which 
would bring the square for a            
three-seamed sack  to #ag4 ,but the     
turning of the sidepiece causes the     
square to enlarge 1  hence the square of
 a three-seamed sack is the same as on a
 five-seamed  frock1 or #bj numbers4    
,see ,dia4 ,,viii ,b4    ,illustration  
,illustration          ,,overcoats4     
,,frock1 ,,three ,,and ,,five-,,seamed  
,,sacks4    7,,see ,,dia4 ,x ,,and ,xa47
      ,the breast measure is to be taken
 over the undercoat1 but close4 ,the    
difference between an undercoat and an  
overcoat is just as much as the         
difference between a vest and an        
undercoat1 and though all three garments

  pass over the same surface1 and must  
fit the same body1 each one has a       
different function to perform1 and each 
of them is used for a different         
purpose4 ,in comparing the vest and     
frock coat on the angle of #ae deg41  we
 find that the vest has a gore under the
 arm at line #ag of say #c1  while the  
frock undercoat has only about #b       
numbers cut out in both gores1  and1    
besides1 the waist seam of the frock is 
to be stretched from  to   inches--all  
of which will make the half frock coat  
about #b in4 larger over  the hips than 
the vest4 ,the frock overcoat requires  
the full angle of #ae  deg4 at the under
 arm cut and at line #ag1 and a trifle  
lap at line #bj4  ,besides1 there may be
 a trifle more width allowed in the     
center of the  back as well as in the   
gore between the sidepiece and back1 say
 from  to   at each point1 all of which 
constitutes the difference at the side  
and  back of waist between the vest1    
undercoat and overcoat4 ,as long as the 

front of the overcoat falls straight    
downward  inch more or less such  width 
amounts to very little1 because the coat
 being open in front the  buttons may be
 set forward or backward4 ,if coats were
 open behind there  would never be any  
trouble to fit the back1 but the        
cutter's vexation  would then be found  
in front4    ,again1 in comparing the   
vest1 under and overcoats at the neck1  
we find  another distinct difference4   
,while the shoulder for a vest may be   
fitted  with the angle of #ace deg41 and
 could be produced equally as well      
without  any shoulder seam1 the         
undercoat requires say  inch spring     
toward the  neck4 ,the curving of the   
forepart at the shoulder seam is done to
 throw  roundness toward the shoulder   
blade1 for which purpose the shoulder   
seam  is thrown backward at the arm4 ,if
 the shoulder seam was located at the   
top of the shoulder1 or where a vest    
shoulder seam is located1 then that     
seam would admit of no curve1 but would 

necessarily be cut straight1 or  with a 
spring toward the neck4    ,when a vest 
is finished1 the collar will create a   
spring at the side of  the neck1 say    
about #a in4 on each side1 which spring 
is required to turn  upward and let the 
neck pass through4 ,at and around the   
neck1 there is  perhaps a tie and a     
shirt collar1 all of which is under the 
vest1 and  all require about  spring on 
each side4 ,now1 when an undercoat is   
worn  over that vest and anything that  
is under it at the neck1 it follows that
  the coat requires at least the same   
spring1 and it must be produced  as     
shown in the diagrams1 and when we      
proceed further1 and put on an  overcoat
 over the undercoat1 we must again make 
our provision for a  spring at the side 
of the neck1 particularly so when we    
know that the  undercoat collar takes   
its full share of extra bulk at and     
around the  neck4    ,the height or the 
top of back of the different garments   
must also  be observed4 ,while the top  

of a vest back is placed at three and   
three-fourths1 the top of an undercoat  
back stands at three to three and  a    
quarter1 and the top of an overcoat back
 is at two and three-fourths to  two and
 a half4 ,the undercoat must cover the  
vest1 say by at least half  an inch1 and
 the overcoat must cover the undercoat  
the same distance1 and  the nearer a    
garment comes to the neck the more      
spring is required at the  side of the  
neck4 ,no spring is required at the back
 of the neck1 but at  the side1 and is  
put in by the aid of the shoulder seam1 
or by stretching  the sides of the neck4
    ,the foregoing descriptions         
correspond with the body1 but they will 
amount  to nothing if we destroy the    
relative balance of the front and bottom
  of the armhole4 ,it is true all coats 
can be cut without that spring1 by      
moving the fore part downward on the    
base until the two points meet2 but  by 
so doing all other points are changed1  
and new points will form4 ,and  while it

 is true that the new position of the   
points and parts will fit  the same1 it 
is equally true that the balance of the 
armhole and sleeve  will also be        
destroyed1 at least it will become      
necessary to readjust  them1 when each  
garment will then have a balance of its 
own4 ,the purpose  herein intended is to
 harmonize coats and vests on one base1 
and simply  make the changes for each   
garment according to the requirements of
 the  body at each particular point1 and
 in all cases maintain the angle of #ace
  deg4 and the balance of the armhole4  
,by saying that the balance of the      
armhole must be retained1 ,i do not mean
  that the overcoat armhole must be cut 
just like that of the undercoat2  on the
 contrary1 an overcoat requires an      
armhole that is cut deeper  as well as  
more forward4 ,cutting the armhole      
deeper1 or more forward1  does not      
destroy its balance as long as the      
sleeve follows4 ,my reason  why the     
armhole of an overcoat must be cut      

deeper and more forward1 and            
consequently larger1 than what will be  
obtained by a scale say #b in4  larger  
than the undercoat1 is this3 ,the       
armhole of an undercoat is always       
larger than the arm itself1 and the body
 of the undercoat is also cut  larger   
than the body itself1 even over the     
vest4 ,undercoats are made up  the      
heaviest at and around the armhole1 and 
if any padding or wadding  is put in1 it
 is at the armholes and shoulders4 ,all 
of which requires  the overcoat armhole 
to be larger in proportion than the     
difference  as obtained between the     
measure over the vest and over the      
undercoat4  ,besides1 an overcoat to be 
comfortable must be looser in comparison
 with  the undercoat--not only in the   
arms1 but over the hips and seat4 ,we   
may  cut our armholes as large as we    
please1 but if the coat has not enough  
cloth over the hips and seat the front  
of the armhole will be drawn  backward1 
and it will strike the arm and cut it2  

and behind and below  the arm1 the back 
will appear too long and too wide1 all  
of which will  correct itself1 if more  
width is given over the hips and seat4  
,after  all other parts are properly    
balanced1 the overcoat armhole ought to 
be  from  to  deeper and more forward   
than that given by the scale for the    
undercoat4    ,in this connection ,i    
will repeat1 that for the undercoat the 
normal form  may have the armhole #b    
seams back of the angle of #de deg41 and
 at the  bottom the armhole may be from 
to #a in4 above lines #i and #aa4 ,the  
overcoat requires about  inch more1     
forward and downward1 and in all  cases 
the sleeve must follow by striking a    
line for the sleeve base #b  seams in   
front of the armhole1 without disturbing
 the center of the back  sleeve seam at 
#h4    ,all this must be observed in    
cutting any under or overcoat1 because  
as  soon as the armhole is cut forward  
the sleeve must follow in width1 which  
must be started at the highest point of 

the top sleeve1 and allowing all  around
 in front4 ,all calculations backward as
 to the center of the sleeve  behind    
must be made from the same point for    
all1 and which point is a  right angle  
from the center of the back through the 
point of the angle  of #ace deg41--for  
all of which further explanation will be
 found in the  ,article on 8,armhole and
 ,sleeves40    ,to recapitulate3 ,a     
three-seamed overcoat can be cut over a 
three-seamed  under sack1 and two sizes 
larger1 by the following changes3 ,top  
of back   higher2 back  shorter1 over   
the blade2 armhole  more forward and    
lower2  allowance at the front sleeve   
seam to follow the armhole2  to   more  
spring toward the neck in the shoulder  
seam4 ,at the center of back #a  inch   
more spring over the seat1 and #a inch  
more spring over the seat in  the side  
seam1 which must be started pretty well 
up1 so that the hollow  of waist        
receives about  inch4    ,in ,dia4 ,x   
the front of the neck is placed at #d1  

resting on the front line  of the angle 
of #ace deg41 which is as low and as far
 forward as it ought  to be made for a  
short roll4 ,overcoats which are        
intended to button clear  up1 should    
have that point  higher and  backward1  
and the same may  be said for the long  
roll4 ,a long roll requires a smaller   
lapel1 but a  larger gore4 ,reducing the
 top of the front by a gore under the   
lapel will  make a far better front than
 if the top of the front edge is shaved 
off  that much1 because it produces an  
oval shape to the breast1 and takes up  
the surplus cloth in the center of the  
front--and more so on an overcoat  where
 the front may lap the distance of #c   
inches4    ,to produce a three-seamed   
over sack for a larger or fuller waist1 
allow  say #a in4 more at line #bj and  
at the side seam1 starting somewhere    
below lines #i and #ac and above line   
#ae2 but this allowance should not  be  
more at the bottom than at the seat4 ,it
 is not required1 however1  behind1 or  

in the side seam1 but more forward1 and 
in order to throw that  allowance of an 
inch forward to the side of the waist1  
the side seam of  the forepart must be  
stretched perhaps  of an inch at the    
hollow of the  waist and above1 because 
stretching below the waist would do no  
good1  as the width must be thrown to   
the waist and hip4 ,a three-seamed over 
sack can be very much improved by       
judicious stretching1 as well as by     
shrinking1 for the reason that the      
forepart is a very large sheet1 and if  
made up flat will never fit the outlines
 of a man4 ,at least1 if all parts  are 
first properly stretched or shrunk a    
better result can be obtained  than if  
made up flat4 ,for instance1 the front  
edge will never lap over  the center of 
the body #c or #d in41 and button       
smoothly1 if it be not  drawn in at     
least #a in4 all the way across the     
chest1 unless the surplus  length is    
drawn upward and balanced by a gore     
under the lapel4 ,now1  although a      

three-seamed over sack can be made1 ,i  
know that a five-seamed  one can be made
 better4 ,cutters and tailors may try   
ever so long to  bring a three-seamed   
overcoat correctly to the body without  
stretching  or shrinking some parts1 but
 they will never succeed as well as with
 a  five-seamed one1 and ,i refer you to
 ,dia4 ,x4    ,it must be admitted that 
a great deal of the spread of the body  
is  sidewise over the hips1 or say in   
the middle of the forepart4 ,on a       
three-seamed garment1 this must be put  
on either in front or at the side  seam1
 but on a five-seamed one this can be   
put just where it belongs1  by enlarging
 the square and cutting the surplus     
width out again under  the arm as the   
fifth seam4 ,by so doing1 the lap of the
 forepart and back  over the seat of a  
three-seamed garment is thrown sidewise1
 and the  back and sidepiece of the     
five-seamed one just meet at the largest
 part  of the seat4 ,all other points   
are the same in either the three or the 

five-seamed garment1 except the length  
of back above the armscye1 which  must  
be shortened  inch on a five-seamer1 and
 the side seam stretched   upward1 which
 stretching upward will re-balance the  
length of back again  over the shoulder 
blades4    ,the height of back1 from    
line #i upward1 should be a trifle      
shorter on  all overcoats than on       
undercoats4 ,all overcoats should be cut
 so that  they lean more toward the     
erect form1 and also toward a           
large-waisted  form4 ,it is a fact1     
which should be well understood by      
cutters1 that a  good-fitting overcoat  
for the normal form will fit well1 as an
 undercoat  for the large-waisted form1 
because a large waist requires a shorter
  back1 and again1 the waist of an      
overcoat cannot be cut according to a   
waist measure with the tape drawn       
tightly over the undercoat1 and as      
closely as the body will allow it to be 
drawn together1 but the waist  measure  
must be taken over the undercoat1 as    

loosely as it hangs on the  body1 and   
this represents a large waist4 ,if an   
overcoat be buttoned up1  it must just  
pass around the undercoat as it hangs   
loose at the waist1  and as soon as the 
overcoat is compelled to draw the       
undercoat together  at the waist1 it    
will be too tight for the purpose4      
,dia4 ,x is intended for a loose coat1  
and if a close fit be desired1 the      
measure must be taken very close1 and   
for such1 a loose measure over the  vest
 may be used1 and in no case should a   
reduction be made in one place  unless  
for an abnormal form4 ,dia4 ,x is       
purposely made large1 but it will  hang 
well on three or four different sizes1  
or on anybody who can put it  on1 and is
 not of the odd forms4 ,furthermore1 it 
will produce an overcoat  which goes on1
 or comes off almost by itself1 and     
which will not require  the whole       
household to help to pull it on or off4 
,dia4 ,xa is intended for a closer fit1 
but ,i will here warn trying to make    

overcoats fit very closely1 for more are
 spoiled in the attempt than  are made  
better4 ,it is without gore under the   
roll1 and may be used for  a soft roll1 
either long or short4 ,being without    
gore under the lapel  requires the coat 
drawn in pretty well over the front4 ,it
 may be cut  with a gore1 by which      
surplus cloth may be drawn upward from  
the center  of front1 providing the     
amount used up for the gore is again    
allowed in  front4    ,i will again     
repeat that ,dia4 ,x is for an erect    
form1 and will cut  a large but         
good-hanging coat4 ,if this diagram be  
used for a more  forward-leaning form1  
the spring in the center of the back may
 be reduced  to #a at line #cj1 starting
 at line #ag4 ,all overcoats are the    
better off  by having plenty spring over
 the seat1 and if there be too much     
spring1  it is easy to sew it in4 ,dia4 
,xa will be found to represent an       
overcoat  for a more forward-leaning    
form1 but not for the stooping form4    

,the neck  is cut pretty well upward1   
and besides the three-eighths spring at 
the  shoulder seam1 the side of the neck
 must be stretched at least  to   inch  
on each side1 or else the collar will be
 too tight4 ,stretching the  side of the
 neck1 as directed in this work1        
requires that the shoulders  at and     
around the side of the neck must be made
 up thin1 and that all  canvas and all  
padding must be cut away gradually1 so  
that the facing  can be stretched also4 
,holding the collar full1 and without   
stretching  the neck1 or working the    
shoulders according to the shape of the 
body1  may result in a fit1 but one     
coatmaker may put life in that fit1     
while  another makes the fit dead1 or   
flat1 or stale1 or whatever it may be   
called4    ,now a word about the bottom 
of the back4 ,it may look odd to some   
cutters  to see the bottom of the back  
shorter behind than at the side2 but the
  whole bottom of ,dia4 ,x may be       
considered correct for the normal form1 

and  it is the same in ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,the 
shortness behind of any back is caused  
by  the back being laid out in such a   
position that nothing is hollowed out   
at the waist behind1 but a spring thrown
 outside of the center over the  seat4  
,the backs are laid out in such a       
position1 because the armhole and  the  
sleeve can not be connected1 as they    
are1 on either ,dia4 ,,vii or ,x1  in   
any other way4 ,but though1 most all    
,fashion ,reports have the backs        
hollowed out behind1 and at the hollow  
of the waist2 still ,i claim that  it is
 a natural way1 to lay out the upper    
parts of the backs on straight  lines4  
,when we observe the run of the center  
of the back1 and when a coat  fits the  
body well1 we find that it runs down    
straight from the shoulder  blade1 to   
the hollow of the waist1 no matter on   
what lines1 or bases  such backs are    
cut1 but below the hollow of the waist1 
the back comes in  contact with the seat
 and must be sprung out gradually4      

,to run a line for the center of the    
back inside of the square1 can be  done 
with the same result1 but all other     
points must change1 and it would  show  
that the draft does not conform to the  
natural run of the body1  which is flat 
behind and on straight lines4 ,now1     
right here1 it might  be observed by    
some that the seat and the shoulder     
blades are on about  the same line1 and 
which line may be called a plumb line1  
and that the  back should be hollow at  
the waist and not come outside of that  
plumb  line4 ,if we observe the ,fashion
 ,reports we come to the conclusion that
  all diagrams are based upon that idea1
 and for more than twenty years  ,i have
 labored under the same delusion4 ,if ,i
 claim that the back of a  coat runs    
straight down behind1 ,i do not mean it 
to run straight down  over the seat1    
like a shirt1 but to run straight down  
from the shoulder  blades to the hollow 
of the waist1 which is about #ae deg4   
from a plumb  line4 ,consequently the   

back of the seat is outside of that     
line1 and the  natural run of the coat  
back is outside of that base1 but may be
 divided  between the center of the back
 and the sidepiece of a frock coat1 and 
also partly between the center of the   
back and the side of the back on a      
sack4    ,it is true that in ,fig4 ,,ii 
the plumb line as a base for the angle  
of #ae  deg4 is outside the body of the 
seat1 but when the coat is on the body1 
the gores which are cut sidewise cause  
the back to be turned about #ae  deg41  
running along with the body from the    
shoulder blades to the hollow  of the   
waist1 which is well illustrated in     
,dia4 ,i4    ,illustration              
,illustration    ,,figures ,,and        
,,diagrams4    ,illustration            
,illustration          ,,figures ,,and  
,,diagrams4      ,,fig4 ,,and ,,dia4 ,i4
    ,this figure shows the front and the
 back views of the normal form1 as      
adopted in this work4 ,it illustrates   
the slopes of the shoulders1 and the    

measurement of said slopes on the angle 
of #ace deg41 and each separate         
shoulder slope on an angle of #bb deg4  
from the side of the neck4 ,it  also    
illustrates the pants bases1 on the     
angle of #g deg41 and shows the  reason 
why the top of the front of a pants     
waist is thrown forward of the  front   
base line4 ,it shows the front pants    
base  sidewise of the center  of the    
body1 and runs down parallel to the     
inside of each leg4 ,this  figure is    
calculated to be in such a standing     
position that the ankles  are #a inches 
apart1 so that  of that distance is  of 
an inch to the  center1 hence the  to be
 thrown forward of the base1 on top of  
waist1 as  the smallest amount for any  
form4    ,in front of the center of the 
figure will be seen another dotted line1
  which is marked #a from the base1     
which is intended to show the front of  
a pants for a fuller waist1 or for a    
more forward leaning waist4 ,this       
addition may be the most that can be    

allowed for a forward-leaning waist1    
and may also be considered to be the    
most that can be allowed for a  medium  
large waist1 as to such forms which     
require a made up waist of #dj  inches1 
but whose seat measure is only #dj      
inches4 ,forms which measure #db  seat  
and require a waist of #dd made up1 may 
have #a allowed in front of  the base1  
and a #df seat which requires a waist   
#ej inches made up1 may be  given #b    
numbers1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,xx1 but #b 
numbers may be considered the  most     
which any pants will require4    ,the   
position of the front pants base1 on the
 front line of the angle of  #g deg41   
must be considered1 as it will be1 when 
the pants are on the  body1 that is1    
running parallel to the front of the    
leg1 which is forward  on top of the    
waist1 and which slope may again be     
called #g deg4 ,from  this line1 most of
 the normal forms carry the top and     
front of waists a  trifle backward1 but 
it is very little1 and we will call such

 waists even  on that line1 in order to 
make a standard4    ,now1 it must not be
 supposed1 that when a waist grows      
larger in  proportion1 that it grows1 or
 spreads very much forward of that line4
  ,whenever the waist grows larger1 the 
body becomes more erect1 in order  to   
keep in balance1 and the relation       
between the front of such a waist1  and 
the line running parallel to the front  
of the leg1 change very  little1 and    
,dia4 ,,xx may be considered to be large
 enough at that point  for almost any   
form4 ,on the other hand1 we find       
large-waisted forms  which do not carry 
their fronts of waists in front of that 
line at all1  though their abdomen may  
curve outside of it4 ,such pants may be 
cut with  a normal front of waist--but  
with a trifle more curve over the center
 of  the abdomen1 and plenty full at the
 side so that the forepart is thrown    
forward from the side1 forming another  
curve over the oval front on the  same  
principle1 as the back is thrown        

backward from the side1 to form the     
curve over the seat4    ,there is an    
endless variation of such forms1 and it 
is fortunate for  cutters that a trifle 
more or less will not kill a pants4 ,the
 difference  in ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx and   
,,xxi is not so great that a great      
mistake would be  made4 ,all the small  
diagrams were made with the top of front
 of waist  thrown forward of the base   
#a1 but as they are used for            
illustration  only1 and as there are a  
great many pants which require it1 they 
have  been left that way4 ,otherwise    
they are the same as ,dia4 ,,xix1 ,,xx  
and ,,xxi4    ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a4  
,,fig4 ,,ii4    ,fig4 ,,ii illustrates  
the side view of the angle of #ace deg4 
as applied on  the draft1 and shows the 
reduction of the square in front and    
below the  waist1 as well as the        
addition behind and below the waist4    
,the diagram on  this figure is a simple
 vest1 on the square of #ag1 and hence  
the under  arm cut is #c at the circle4 

,illustration3 ,fig4 #b4      ,,dia4 ,i4
    ,dia4 ,i is intended for            
illustration only4 ,it is on a square of
 #bj1 and  the  is intended for the     
extra seam which the frock coat         
requires4 ,the  center of the back and  
center of the front run in the same     
direction as  they must run when on the 
body4 ,it also illustrates the spring   
over the  hips as the body actually     
requires it4    ,the gore between the   
side-piece and back illustrates what may
 be buckled  up on a vest4 ,the front   
represents a straight single-breasted   
coat1 as  worn by the military or       
clergy1 and may be depended upon if     
placed as in  ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,the front of 
such a coat must have a large gore in   
the center1  which gore must be made at 
least #a to #a inches1 seams included1  
and  must start well up above line #ae1 
and the edges cut oval1 not hollow2 and 
the canvas and all padding and lining   
must be cut and worked in the same  way1
 in which case the front requires no    

drawing in4 ,the stay is put on  close  
merely to keep the edge from stretching4
    ,above line fifteen the button-holes
 are cut1 and the buttons are set  plumb
 on the front line1 but below line #ae  
the button line turns backward  as      
shown4 ,to meet the collar in front1    
nick one seam back of the front  line1  
for military1 but for a clergyman's coat
 place the nick  back of  said line4    
,the top of the skirt laps #a inch in   
front of the forepart1 and  drops  inch 
on the bottom of the front4 ,the        
standing collar must be a  straight     
piece1 and its width depends upon       
regulation4 ,for a clergyman's  coat the
 standing collar should not be less than
  inches nor more than #a  inch1 made   
up4 ,the front of such a collar may be  
run straight upward with  a line        
parallel to the front line of #ace deg41
 but may be shaved backward  on top     
according to regulation or taste4       
,the place for the shoulder straps on   
military or society coats is the  spot  

between the lines represented by #fj    
deg4 from the front and #fj deg4  from  
the back1 which space of #g deg4        
represents the top of the shoulder4     
,for practical purposes1 use the back   
part of ,dia4 ,,ii for such a coat1 and 
shape the front like ,dia4 ,i4    ,this 
,dia4 ,i is made to show all the angles 
which start from the point of  #ace     
deg41 and which are required for a coat 
or vest4 ,that angle which  forms the   
shoulder seam1 and which is also marked 
square of #bj1 is #de  deg4 from the    
center of back1 but for some reason it  
was forgotten to  be so marked4 ,the    
lines of this diagram may be used to    
draw the angles  for any coat or vest1  
by simply making them long enough for   
the size  required1 the same as in ,dia4
 ,,xii-,a4 ,drawn long enough to cover  
both  shoulders1 as shown in ,fig4 ,i1  
the outside lines of this angle of #ace 
deg4 is to be used to measure the       
shoulders as well as to draw all the    
other lines1 or angles for drafting4    

,a circle drawn from this point1 with a 
half diameter of #h inches1 will be     
large enough1 and it may be cut out of  
solid paste-board1 but better1 of  tin  
or zinc on which the lines are correctly
 drawn4 ,the location of the  forepart  
and shoulders is the same as in ,dia4   
,,ii1 or any other diagram4  ,the back  
and the sidepiece on the square of #bj  
are in a different  position only4 ,the 
front is just as good as any diagram can
 be made for a  military or for a       
clergyman's coat1 when placed as in     
,dia4 ,,ii4 ,the back  and the sidepiece
 is for illustration only4    ,that back
 which rests on the angle of #ace deg4  
is in all respects  correct1 but the    
back which rests on the sidepiece has   
one incorrect  line1 and this is the    
line forming the shoulder seam4 ,it is  
correct at  the armhole1 but should run 
up to the point of the square of #bj1 so
 that  all three lines meet1 and it will
 be found that from that point1 down to 
line #i over the front1 will be #ad1 but

 line #i itself gives the correct       
distance from the top and back corner of
 the square4    ,by close observation it
 is also seen that the height of back   
above line #i  is only  more in ,dia4 ,i
 than it is in ,dia4 ,,iv1 or on the    
vest1 and also  that the side of the    
back of ,dia4 ,i is reduced again in    
length  inch by  a gore from the armhole
 to the shoulder blade1 all of which    
proves that  both coat and vest are the 
same thing on the same square1 and that 
the  heights of back and front are the  
same1 and in order that the vest is     
covered by the coat1 the neckhole for   
the vest is cut  lower4    ,if          
everything is considered at the waist1  
the coat is only a trifle  larger than  
the vest1 and that1 what the front of a 
coat has more than a  vest1 is used for 
the lapel4 ,though ,dia4 ,i has a square
 of #bj1 and ,dia4  ,,iv has only a     
square of #bj1 both have the same width 
when all the seams  are sewed up4 ,all  
of which shows that1 as the coat must   

pass over the  vest1 the vest must be   
cut at least one size smaller than the  
coat1 and ,i  have found it correct4 ,in
 other words3 ,the difference between   
the breast  measure over the vest1 and  
that under the vest1 is about #a inch in
 the  whole breast measure4 ,dia4 ,i    
gives a good deal of information1 though
 it  may be useless for practical       
cutting4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,i4    
,,dia4 ,,ii4    ,this is a plain        
double-breasted frock2 and the diagram  
is plain and  requires little extra     
description1 except the front of the    
waist and  lapel4 ,the fore-part has no 
gore at the waist1 and the reduction is 
made  in front4 ,it will be seen that   
the double-breasted front of ,dia4 ,,ii 
is  only about #a inch wider than the   
single-breasted front of ,dia4 ,i1 and  
that the gore in ,dia4 ,i is balanced in
 ,dia4 ,,ii by the large gore between   
the lapel and fore-part upward1 and if  
it is desired to cut a small gore  at   
the waist1 then all what that gore takes

 up must be allowed in front4    ,the   
lapel in ,dia4 ,,ii will roll anywhere  
down to the second or third  button1 but
 if a gore is cut at the waist the roll 
will go down to the  waist seam2 and if 
the collar is pretty well rounded in    
front the lapel  may be run down to the 
bottom4 ,all frock coats have the center
 of the  back pretty well thrown out at 
the bottom of the skirt1 and this extra 
width is again reduced between the back 
and front skirt1 which operation  allows
 that seam to be oval-shaped in order to
 fit over the seat4 ,the  frock coat1   
being open behind1 must receive its oval
 form over the seat  in the seam between
 the back and front skirt1 because that 
seam is sewed  together and will hold   
its shape1 whereas if the roundness were
 placed in  the center behind it would  
simply produce a curved edge1 but not an
 oval  shape for the seat4 ,the lap     
between the forepart and the skirt      
represents  the extra length over the   
oval chest1 and for a full chest1 and if

 the  chest is not very full1 the lap of
 #a number may be reduced to  at the    
front edge1 but must remain #a number at
 the plumb line base4    ,dia4 ,,ii is  
intended for the normal form1 and for   
the following measure2  ,breast1 #ce2   
waist1 #cb2 hip1 #cd2 seat1 #cf2 length 
of legs1 #cb to #cc2  form straight     
without being over-erect4 ,the back and 
the sidepiece is  intended for a close  
fit1 or as fine work ought to fit4 ,if a
 looser fit  is required1 the gores     
between the back and the sidepiece and  
between  the fore-part and the sidepiece
 should be made a trifle smaller from   
the hollow of the armhole downward1     
which will give greater ease to the     
armhole and is better than to cut the   
armhole more forward4 ,if a waist is    
prominent1 say nearly as large as the   
breast1 the underarm gore may be  made  
as small as  to  at line #ag and run out
 to nothing at line #bj2  while a very  
large waist may require a lap of #a     
inch1 at the waist seam1  starting said 

extra width at the bottom of the        
armhole4    ,this diagram shows the     
sleeve and the armhole different than   
,dia4 ,,vii4  ,the armhole is cut out to
 the front sleeve base line and the     
sleeve and  the armhole laps #b at #fj  
deg41 all of which gives both armhole   
and  sleeve a trifle larger and that    
armhole requires not so much stretching 
as that of ,dia4 ,,vii4 ,the top sleeve 
and armhole nicks are connected by  a   
right angle from the center of back     
through the angle of #fj deg41 and  they
 will fit pretty close together1 and in 
fact may be taken together on  all      
sleeves and armholes1 basting forward   
and backward to meet the other  nicks4  
,,note3 ,elsewhere it is stated1 that   
,dia4 ,,ii must be considered the parent
  pattern of all others1 which is quite 
true1 though the armhole of ,dia4 ,,ii  
is larger than the others4    ,,further3
 ,in cutting the gore between the back  
and sidepiece1 point #e must  be quite  
slightly touched by both1 and it may be 

better to have  gore  there on all coats
 except for the stooping form4 ,see     
,dia4 ,,ii ,b4    ,illustration3 ,,dia4 
,,ii4      ,,dia4 ,,iii4    ,this       
diagram is also made for illustration   
only1 for it would be too  complicated  
for practical cutting4 ,it is made for  
the purpose of showing  the correct     
position of the back and sidepiece for  
cutting a sack coat  without changing   
any balance in the armhole4 ,the        
sidepiece is so placed  that it will    
form a spring at the side of the hip1   
and the back and  sidepieces are lapped 
over on top enough to balance one seam1 
leaving the  sack as a three seamed     
garment4    ,the top of the back skirt  
and bottom of the sidepiece lap over1   
and  which lap represents the extra     
length that the frock coat requires     
while  passing closer to the hollow of  
the body4 ,on the sack coat the spring  
over the hips is not used1 nor is the   
larger frock coat gore behind1 but      
between the two the sack seam is cut    

with a gore of about #a numbers at  the 
hollow of the waist4    ,in placing the 
sidepiece in position1 as in ,dia4      
,,iii1 the back part of  the sidepiece  
on the shoulder blade falls backward and
 enlarges the  square 1 and for this    
reason the three-seamed sack coat has a 
square of  #ah1 or the same as a        
five-seamed frock4    ,in turning the   
sidepiece down into the waist1 the top  
of the sidepiece  will fall down behind 
and form the spring between it and the  
skirt1 and  consequently the whole frock
 coat back shortens on top1 or from line
 #i  upward2 and for the further reason 
that the sack coat back is the wider1   
the height of a sack back appears still 
shorter1 as seen in ,dia4 ,,iii and     
,,viii1 and is #ac4 ,for further        
explanation as to why the back of a sack
 is  shorter than that of a frock1 see  
article on 8,narrow and ,broad ,backs40 
,all foreparts in ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii and    
,,iii are in the same position1 and all 
changes are made on the sidepieces and  

backs4 ,dia4 ,,iii produces the         
closer-fitting skirt for a cut-a-way4   
,all skirts are alike over the  back1   
because all coats must fit the same over
 that portion of the body1  but fronts  
of cut-a-ways must be closer than those 
of double-breasted  straight coats4 ,the
 lap of the top of the front of the     
skirt and bottom  of the front of the   
forepart are reduced from the sidepiece 
forward1  which takes away all surplus  
flow of the skirt4 ,the gore in the     
fore-part  is simply turned forward on a
 cut-a-way1 while on a 8,prince ,albert0
 it  stops at the waist seam4    ,the   
swing of the sidepiece in ,dia4 ,,iii is
 made at line #i over the  forepart and 
on the square of #bj4 ,the break is made
 there1 and the  calculation is made    
from that point2 and it is for this     
reason that an  opening is made above   
line #i1 which is about  at the height  
of the sack  coat side seam1 and is cut 
away on a frock coat1 as a small gore1  
if the  garment is cut in this position4

 ,but in a three-seamed sack coat the   
swing must be considered further back1  
or at the seam1 consequently the        
opening is at the top of the sack coat  
side seam1 which is cut out as a  small 
gore between back and front and above   
line #aa1 or else the back  armhole will
 be too wide1 and show too much sleeve  
there4 ,this gore may  be made  to  of a
 number1 but which is obliterated when  
the sidepiece  is turned so as to come  
in the position as shown in ,dia4       
,,viii-a4    ,after the cut for ,dia4   
,,iii had been made1 ,i came to the     
conclusion that  the opening of the     
frock coat sidepiece and forepart toward
 the armhole1  could just as well be    
balanced in a sack1 by cutting it as a  
five-seamer1  and by making back and    
forepart even above line #aa1 and this  
was one  reason why ,dia4 ,,viii ,b was 
added4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,iii    
,,dia4 ,,iv4    ,dia4 ,,iv represents a 
vest1 and is quite plain4 ,it is on a   
square of #bj1  and in the same position

 as shown in ,dia4 ,i1 front and back   
bases running  parallel4 ,from the front
 of the waist1 or at the pit of the     
stomach1 or  where the body turns1 the  
square of #bj is reduced to conform to  
the bend  of the body1 and from the back
 of the waist1 or where the body turns1 
the  back receiving what the front has  
lost4    ,under the arm the normal form 
requires a reduction at the waist of    
about  #a in41 and another in the middle
 of the back1 as shown in ,dia4 ,i1     
between  the sidepiece and back1 but    
which may partly be taken off at the    
side  seam and partly buckled up4 ,a    
vest without buckle-straps should be cut
  with a gore in the back of say  inch1 
and as shown by dots in ,dia4 ,,iv  and 
,,xiii4 ,all vests should be cut as     
though there were to be no turn-down    
collar1 and if such a collar is to be   
added1 a simple piece of the shape  of  
the whole neck is attached1 in which    
shape the front may be curved at        
pleasure4    ,the side of the neck as   

#d1 is for a vest without a turn-down   
collar1 and  is calculated to lose one  
seam for the turn-in2 and if the vest be
 bound  this point ought to be #d1 and  
if a turn-down collar is put on1 said   
point should be fully #d1 because       
nothing is lost by a seam1 but instead  
there is an actual gain by the          
top-collar covering the seam1 and for   
the  purpose of illustrating ,dia4 ,v1  
,,vi1 ,,ix1 ,dia4 ,,iv has the shoulder 
seam cut  on a straight line1 and       
without lap or gore1 and if cut just    
like it1 the  side of the neck must be  
stretched say about  to  inches on each 
side1  and close to the shoulder seam4  
,if1 however1 the vestmaker can not be  
trusted to do the stretching right1 it  
is better to allow about  spring  at the
 neck1 starting at1 or about the middle 
of the shoulder seam1 or to  cut the    
vest as directed at the end of the      
article on vests4 ,in no case  must the 
back be held full on the collar4        
,when finishing the neck1 the side of   

the back is to be turned in1 or cut     
off1 whatever surplus length may be     
there1 but the center of the back is    
turned in just one seam4 ,notch the     
shoulder seam as shown and baste up  and
 down4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,iiii4  
,,dia4 ,v4    ,this diagram is also     
given for illustration only4 ,it        
represents the  centers of the front and
 back on straight lines1 the neck-hole  
on the  back and front1 even1 and the   
reduction of the shoulders at #de deg41 
as  it actually is to be reduced4 ,the  
side of the neck represents ,dia4 ,,iv  
as  cut out #d1 and would require a     
standing collar of  to be sewed on4 ,in 
this position a neck-band could not be  
cut on the forepart as shown in  ,dia4  
,,iv1 because the shoulder seam would be
 too far in front4 ,though it  is       
useless for actual cutting1 it is worth 
its place in this work for              
illustration4 ,it fully demonstrates    
that the so-called front shoulder  point
 is a myth4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 #e4 

,,dia4 ,,vi4    ,dia4 ,,vi is also for  
illustration1 and shows the vest on the 
angle of #ace  deg41 and again on an    
angle of  of #ace deg41 or on #fg deg4  
,there the  angle of #ace deg4 is cut in
 two1 or folded together1 so that the   
center  of the front and center of the  
back are one line1 and wherever the     
front  of the waist is reduced the back 
is enlarged4    ,the cut of the side of 
the neck is the same as shown in ,dia4  
,v1 though  one is shown as #c #b-d and 
the other as #d1 but the calculations   
are made  from different points4 ,dia4  
,,iv is the parent pattern of ,dia4 ,v  
and ,,vi4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 #f4   
,,dia4 ,,vii4    ,this diagram          
represents the sleeve system4 ,on the   
top square line from  the front base1 or
 at #de deg4 from the back1 the sleeve  
and the shoulder  should lap about #b1  
or as much as possible to form a nice   
curve toward  the front seam4 ,a short  
top sleeve on the angles of #de and #fj 
deg4 will  draw both the front and the  

back seams out of shape4 ,a top sleeve  
is  better too long at these points than
 too short1 because the top sleeve  can 
easily be reduced1 but if that lap is   
too short1 the back and the  front seams
 will be drawn upward1 and will be too  
long at the armhole1  while at the hand 
the sleeve is that much too short4      
,whenever the under  sleeve appears too 
long on either seam1 it shows that the  
top sleeve  is too short4 ,at #fj deg4  
the diagram shows #b1 which may be taken
 as  the smallest portion to be given   
there1 and may be made #b4 7,see ,dia4  
,,ii47 ,the armhole and sleeve should   
lap #a to #b seams on the front sleeve  
base1 and if the armhole is cut larger  
than the diagram1 the sleeve must       
follow1 which1 of course1 must change   
the lap at #fj deg4    ,the armhole1 as 
it is shown in ,dia4 ,,vii1 is for a    
close-fitting armhole1  but there is no 
law to prevent it from being cut further
 forward and  downward1 providing the   
sleeve follows4 7,see description of    

sleeve as  shown in ,dia4 ,x47          
,,note3 ,dia4 ,,ii1 ,,ii ,a and ,,viii  
,b were made one year later and show the
 top  connections of sleeve and armhole 
in a different way1 and they also show  
the armhole larger all around4 ,stooping
 forms with prominent shoulder  blades  
require their armholes still further    
forward1 but ,i have never  found a     
stooping form who required his armholes 
more than  in front of  #de deg41 and   
such forms should have the back that    
much wider4 ,the armhole   back of #de  
deg4 for the arms thrown back and  in   
front of #de deg4 for  the arms thrown  
forward may be considered the limit for 
both extremes4    ,illustration3 ,dia4  
#g4      ,,dia4 ,,viii4    ,is a sack   
with three seams and with a straight    
front4 ,as long as a cutter  is able to 
cut a straight front1 he will have      
little trouble to cut any  shape of a   
cutaway for either sack or frock4 ,as   
shown in the diagram1  the height of the
 back above line #i over the front is   

placed at #ac1 the  same as in ,dia4    
,,iii4 ,this height of back will make   
the back plenty short  for the normal   
form1 and it may be called rather short1
 but any coat back  is better  inch too 
short than  inch too long1 for if short1
 it can  easily be stretched at the     
center and over the shoulder blade1 and 
such  stretching1 if done properly1 will
 improve all such sack coats1 because   
the center of the back as far over to   
the shoulder blade of any person  are   
always longer than the sides4    ,on a  
frock coat1 the shortness at the sides  
is reduced by a small gore  between the 
top of sidepiece and the back1 because  
of the curved seam1  but on the more    
straight sack seam1 said reduction can  
not so well be  made1 except by cutting 
the back shorter1 and stretching it     
again behind1  at1 and as far over as   
the shoulder blade4    ,for a           
double-breasted front1 add #a inch to   
the front of ,dia4 ,,viii--cut a  gore  
under the lapel1 and add to the top and 

front of the lapel1 whatever  that gore 
takes up4 ,set the buttons back         
accordingly4    ,dia4 ,,viii is made for
 the same form as is ,dia4 ,,ii1 that is
 for a  slender form and small waist1   
and if the waist is to be more full1 or 
the armholes are to be quite loose for  
working coats1 reduce the gore  between 
the fore part and back one half inch    
clear down1 starting at line  #aa4 ,the 
armhole is represented close-fitting1   
requiring it to be well  stretched1 but 
it may be cut forward to the base and in
 every respect  made like ,dia4 ,,ii4   
,the same may be done to ,dia4          
,v,i,i,ia4    ,illustration3 ,dia4      
,,viii4      ,,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4    ,this 
diagram is made especially for the erect
 form1 but may be used for  the normal  
form by placing the depth of back at #ab
 above line #i4 ,as the  diagram is1 it 
simply gives the result of the closing  
of the  fold1 as  shown across the waist
 in ,dia4 ,,viii4 ,erect forms usually  
require small  coats in the back1 and in

 the armhole1 and for this reason1 such 
forms  should be cut one size smaller   
than the measure1 and  inch should be   
allowed in front1 to balance the size4  
,the front is given with a pretty large 
roll and the upper part may be  used for
 a double-breasted sack1 while meeting  
the front edge and the  front angle in  
front of line #ae and by going forward  
#d numbers at line  #cj4 ,the gore      
between the back and sidepiece may be   
reduced to #b at line  #bj and to #a at 
line #cj4 ,the height of the back1 above
 line #i is #a  number shorter than on  
,dia4 ,,viii1 and which is accounted for
 as follows3  ,the fold across the waist
 which is obtained from above is 1 and  
the  side of the sidepiece is stretched 
upward  on the forepart1 all of  which  
requires the back to be #a shorter above
 line #i4 ,if the sidepiece  is         
stretched less1 the back must be so much
 longer1 and for a good many  forms     
stretch may be plenty1 in which case the
 height of back is to be  #ab4          

,illustration3 ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4         
,,dia4 ,,ix4    ,dia4 ,,ix is made to   
illustrate the changes of the shoulders 
from the  normal to the long or short   
neck4 ,for this purpose the shoulders on
 each  back and front are made equally  
high1 and the coat armhole connected    
evenly all around4 ,this diagram being  
on the square of #ag would require  a   
coat to lap #b seams somewhere4 ,the    
diagram itself shows a vest on the      
angle of #ae deg4 and in a square of    
#ag1 with a gore under the arm of  #c4  
,but the main object of ,dia4 ,,ix is to
 illustrate the height of the           
shoulders2 and extra length or extra    
shortness of the shoulder must be       
produced as shown by dots1 and is       
further explained in the articles on    
8,long ,necks0 and 8,square ,shoulders40
    ,this diagram also shows a shoulder 
slope of #cj deg41 for the reason that  
the base is on the front plumb line and 
not on the center of the front4  ,the   
front plumb line is #ae deg4 back of the

 center1 hence from it each  front and  
back shoulder slope is #g deg4 out of   
its normal position4  ,if the diagram   
were made on the square of #bj1 the     
armhole could not be  connected all     
around1 as it must be on the body4 ,this
 diagram represents  a complete armhole1
 after the under arm seam is sewed1 and 
the coat is  built around it4           
,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,ix4      ,,dia4  
,x4    ,dia4 ,x is a five-seamer        
overcoat for the normal1 but leaning    
toward the  erect form4 ,the armhole is 
cut full forward to #de deg41 and the   
sleeve  base moved forward two seams1 or
  inches4 ,the sleeve part of this      
diagram makes a close sleeve head1 and a
 lap at #fj deg4 may be made   to  more1
 and at #de deg4 it may be made  more or
 any amount required  to make a nice    
curve4 ,the bottom of the armhole is    
plenty low1 and the  gusset on the top  
of the under sleeve fits it4 ,the width 
of the shoulders  may be made #i at #fj 
deg4 ,a half-inch lap between the       

armhole and sleeve  at the back sleeve  
center1 or at line #h1 will make the    
whole sleeve extra  easy1 though the    
back sleeve may hang a trifle loose when
 the arm hangs  down1 but this  inch    
extra length must not be accounted for  
in the  sleeve-length4    ,the square of
 the coat is #ah only1 which is  less   
than the regular  calculation would     
bring it4 ,an overcoat must be          
close-fitting1 at and  around the arm1  
though the armhole must be plenty large4
 ,dia4 ,x was made  over a #ci pattern  
and if that same draft is measured and  
laid out with a  scale of #ch1 the      
square will be #ai1 which #ai numbers   
correspond to the  square of #ah on a   
three-seamer1 taking in consideration   
the gore and the  seams under the arm on
 a five-seamer4 ,to cut over ,dia4 ,x   
the measure must  be taken close over   
the undercoat1 and the measure over the 
vest will  make the fit not too close4  
,illustration3 ,dia4 ,x4      ,,dia4    
,xa4    ,is a three-seamed overcoat1 and

 must be reproduced and made as fine    
work  requires it1 and the person who   
wears it must be well built1 and with a 
rather small waist and seat4 ,all       
clothing worn under the overcoat should 
be neat and well fitting4 ,erect persons
 should have the height of back at  #ac4
 ,the sleeve shown in ,dia4 ,x          
corresponds to ,dia4 ,xa4 ,the collar   
must be  sewed on easy1 on and along the
 sides4 ,the whole front edge may be    
made   inch smaller than ,dia4 ,x4      
,illustration3 ,dia4 ,xa4      ,,dia4   
,,xi4    ,dia4 ,,xi represents the      
garment in a three-fourths circle and on
 a square  of #bj4 ,the circle itself   
would make the vest too short1 but it   
represents  the correct run of the      
bottom4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 #aa4    
,,dia4 ,,xii4    ,dia4 ,,xii represents 
the same as the foregoing in a          
three-fourths circle1  but on a square  
of #ag1 also the equilateral triangle of
 #ce numbers4 ,each  of the ,dia4 ,,xi  
and ,,xii are one square cut from the   

center of a circle1  and in order to    
make it as simple as possible the vest  
is again used4  ,the bottom of the      
forepart is on the circle1 but that     
would make a short  vest1 and for this  
reason the back shows #a longer4        
,illustration3 ,dia4 #ab4      ,,dia4   
,x,i,ia4    ,dia4 ,x,i,ia is made to    
illustrate all points obtained from the 
center of a  circle1 or from a point of 
the angle of #ace deg4 ,all it requires 
is to  lengthen the lines1 so that they 
are long enough for the full scale4 ,any
  other point in any other garment may  
be found in the same way4               
,illustration3 ,dia4 ,x,i,ia4           
,,dia4 ,,xiii4    ,this diagram ,i      
consider very valuable for illustration1
 because it  represents an entire       
garment from neck to ankle in one       
continuous form1  and on slopes in      
perfect harmony with the slopes of the  
body1 running  to a point at each end1  
each point at an angle of #ae deg41 and 
both  joined at the widest part1        

representing the largest part of the    
body1  but cut off at the neck and at   
the feet4 ,the upper part again         
represents  the vest1 as the simplest   
garment worn by man4 ,the starting point
 for  the garment is at a point where   
the angle of #ae deg4 has a width of #ag
  numbers4 ,the connecting points of the
 two angles of #ae deg4 are at the      
front of the waist1 or at the pit of the
 stomach1 where the body turns          
backward1 upward and downward1 and at   
the largest part of the seat4 ,the      
lower point of the angle of #ae deg4 is 
a center for the pants1 from which      
center all connection for the seams may 
be swept with certainty4 ,and1  although
 this point is not convenient to sweep  
from for every pants we  cut1 a cutter  
must know from what point he can obtain 
his balance without  going to the       
point--all of which is fully described  
in the article on  8,pants40            
,illustration3 ,dia4 #ac4      ,,dia4   
,,xiv4    ,this is simply the lower part

 of ,dia4 ,,xiii1 but the sides are     
closely  connected on the angle of #ae  
deg41 showing the pants in one solid    
sheet1 which will fit the form of the   
bare body from waist to ankle4  ,this   
diagram is in such a position that a new
 beginner may learn how to  produce a   
nice slope for the side seam4 ,but it is
 intended to serve for  other and more  
important illustrations4 ,it is to      
illustrate more fully  the so-called    
back slope4    ,the upper part1 or the  
waist1 is in a perfect square from the  
front base4  ,if the front and the back 
bases are laid on top of each other1 all
 the  sweeps from point #hj will fit    
together and the whole front and back   
will  lay in position as most all pants 
are cut4 ,from the position of this     
diagram1 there is no side1 nor back     
slope2 it is simply a square block1     
consequently1 the so-called back slope  
is only an imagination4 ,but the  most  
important point to illustrate is the    
following3    ,considering the ankles #a

 inches apart1 will give to each side 1 
and the  front base line would run down 
parallel with the center of the front1  
though slanting backward1 and parallel  
with the front of the leg4 ,now1 it  is 
true1 the lower part of ,dia4 ,,xiv is  
on an angle of #ae deg41 but the  upper 
part is also on a square1 and we will   
now consider the back square  line      
finished clear down to the bottom of a  
pants1 and cut out a square  sheet of   
stiff paper1 as long as a pants may be  
and as wide as the seat  requires to go 
around it1 say #dj inches both ways1 and
 place it on and  around the body of a  
person whose front of abdomen does not  
reach outside  of a straight line1      
running parallel with the front slope of
 the legs1  and in this position the    
sheet will fit to the body all along    
down in  front1 as well as the back of  
the waist from the seat upward4 ,the    
center  of the front and the center of  
the back run parallel up and forward and
  the square sheet will fit it1 but at  

the top of the side1 and at the  bottom 
of the side and at the bottom of the    
back the square sheet1 wound  around the
 body will be too large1 and must be    
reduced as follows3 ,on top  of side of 
waist one or two gores are cut to       
represent the difference  between the   
seat hip and waist measure4 ,the bottom 
at the side and at  the back is reduced 
from a square to a slope of #ae deg41   
all of which is  taken off from behind4 
,it should be observed on ,dia4 ,,xiv   
that the center  of the front and the   
center of the back seams run parallel   
upward and  forward above the seat      
lines1 and from the seat lines downward1
 both the  front and back forks start   
outward of the square1 all of which is  
to be  turned inward to pass forward and
 backward between the legs4    ,the     
square sheet must be considered for the 
outside cover1 as though the  legs were 
grown together4 ,again1 a square sheet  
must be considered so  adjusted to the  
upper body that the square sheet closes 

in all around the  front from top to    
bottom1 and from the seat to the waist  
in the back1  but stands off at the     
bottom behind where the square is to be 
reduced to  an angle of #ae deg4 from   
seat to bottom4 ,whatever such a square1
 wound  around the upper body is too    
large at the waist1 must be reduced by  
one  large or by two small gores at the 
top of side1 and it will be found that  
the reduction of the angle of #g deg4 is
 always the difference between  the seat
 and waist measure1 and if the waist is 
as large as the seat1  no reduction is  
required1 and if the waist is larger    
than the seat1  allowance must be made  
at the side and in front4 ,if that      
division is not  properly made the      
crotch will show the fault1 because the 
sides will take  up their share1 whether
 they have too much or too little cloth4
    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,xiv4         
,,dia4 ,,xv4    ,the figure on this     
diagram is poorly drawn1 but it serves  
to illustrate4  ,it gives the side view 

of the crotch1 and illustrates why a    
larger waist  must receive more cloth in
 front than a normal waist4 ,fig4 ,i    
shows the  pants from the front or back 
view1 but this gives the side view1 the 
back  running backward and the front    
forward and away from the body4 ,in this
  position the pants must be considered 
as in opposite position to ,dia4  ,,xiv1
 and connected on the crotch seams4     
,dia4 ,,xv is intended to illustrate    
the bases for the small waist as well as
 for the large waist4 ,on the  small    
waist the body of the waist is even with
 the front pants base1 but  when the    
waist becomes larger the base will have 
to be considered as  located inside of  
the front of the abdomen1 as shown on   
the figure4 ,when  the base strikes the 
front of the body1 as on a small waist1 
the front  can be swung sidewise and    
backward on a straight line1 and the    
back can  be swung forward and sidewise1
 but in order to conform to the seat the
  back must form the sack for the seat  

first4    ,when both the front and the  
back is settled to the shape of the     
body1  the center of each runs up and   
down and parallel above the seat line4  
,the larger waist extends outside of the
 base and after the front is  swung     
sidewise1 to the side of the back1 the  
front of the pants must be  considered  
to be brought forward to the front of   
the body1 the hinge  being at the side1 
and when the front of the pants is swung
 forward with  the hinge or swing       
fastened to the side1 the centre of     
front is too  small and must be supplied
 with extra width4 ,pants1 as well as   
coats1  are fitted from the side forward
 to the front and from the side backward
  to the back1 and if the diameter of   
the center of the body from back to     
front is larger than on the normal form1
 the ends of the front will not  reach  
the centre of the body in front and more
 waist proportion must be  allowed      
there4 ,the back must be considered     
stationary and requires no  allowance   

behind1 but may require allowance at the
 side if the waist is  well filled up   
there4 7,see ,dia4 ,,xx47    ,in case of
 a back or forward leaning waist1 ,dia4 
,,xv will show that  the crotch must be 
considered stationary1 and the crotch   
must also be  considered as a hinge on  
which the upper body swings back and    
forward1  and that if the backward      
leaning waist requires  inch less cloth 
on top  of front1 the top of back must  
receive that  inch again1 or else the   
so-called back slope will become too    
large4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,xv4    
,the descriptions of ,dias4 ,,xiii1     
,,xiv and ,,xv should be well considered
 by  every cutter4 ,i have figured on   
them for over twelve years and the      
result  is here given4 ,others might    
have done it in less time1 but so far as
 ,i  know1 nobody has done it yet4      
,,dia4 ,,xvi4    ,dia4 ,,xvi shows the  
front and back of equal width except the
 tops of each4      ,,dia4 ,,xvii4      
,this presents the small front and wide 

back4      ,,dia4 ,,xviii4    ,dia4     
,,xviii illustrates the principle of the
 fold in the seat1 and the  back and    
dress front nearly alike4               
,illustration3 ,dia4 #af4 ,dia4 #ag4    
,dia4 #ah4      ,,dia4 ,,xix4           
,represents pants of the present style  
and fashion4 ,the waist is as short  as 
it ought to be for fine pants4 ,contrast
 the length of the waist with  ,dia1    
,,xxi4 ,dia4 ,,xix is calculated for a  
size #ch seat with a knee #ai inches    
wide4 ,if this is laid out with a #ce   
scale1 the knee will become #ag  inches 
wide1 which is a good width for a close 
fitting pants1 which will  soon come in 
style again4 ,when small pants legs come
 in style again1 the  crotch of such    
pants will have to be reduced about one 
seam1 and at the  bottom the centre will
 be the same centre1 while at the knee  
the centre  of the angle of #aj deg4 is 
also a guide1 but there the outside     
requires  about  less than the inside1  
because the inside of the leg is        

straight1  while the outside is hollow4 
,illustration3 ,,dia4 ,,xix4      ,,dia4
 ,,xx4    ,this diagram was made over a 
pants pattern of the following          
proportion3  ,seat1 #df in42 ,hip1 #dg2 
actual waist measure1 #df2 waist as made
 up1 #di  in42 knee1 #bb2 and bottom1   
#bj in4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,xx4   
,,dia4 ,,xxi4    ,this diagram was made 
for the purpose of illustrating a pants 
with a high  waist1 and how it is to be 
cut on top in order to have such a pants
 feel  good around the short ribs1 and  
still fitting at the hollow of the      
waist4  ,the more spring such a pants   
has near the short ribs1 the better it  
will  be4 ,but the buckle straps must be
 set low1 or at the hollow of the waist1
  so they do not draw that width        
backward4 ,for the sake of making a     
change1  ,i have thrown the top of front
 of the dress side out  and the undress 
side is to be 4    ,illustration3 ,,dia4
 ,,xxi4      ,,dia4 ,,xxii and ,,xxiii4 
,are the same thing4 ,they are here     

reproduced to give a correct idea of    
the so-called 8back slope40 ,both are   
turned from point #hj1 or from the      
point of the angle of #g deg4 ,all      
connections1 or nicks for the seams  are
 on the sweeps from point #hj4 ,the leg 
seams are dislocated1 but the  balance  
is the same1 and both will fit the same 
when on the body1 and  ,i claim that    
there never was a truer pants system    
produced than is  represented by these  
two diagrams4    ,the complete angles of
 the different degrees are not made1 but
 the base  line1 running down to #hj1 is
 on the same spot on all foreparts4     
,from  point #hj the forepart of ,dia4  
,,xxii is thrown forward1 and in ,dia4  
,,xxiii  it is thrown sidewise1 all of  
which may be imitated on a pants leg1   
after  it is sewed up4 ,now it will be  
noticed that each of the two diagrams   
has a double side1 on which it makes no 
difference where the nicks are  located1
 as long as they are on top of each     
other1 but the disconnected  sides must 

be nicked by the sweeps from point #hj4 
,five years ago ,i sent the principle of
 ,dia4 ,,xxii and ,,xxiii to the        
publisher of the 8,,american ,,tailor10 
and the answer may be found in the      
8,,american ,,tailor0 of ,november1     
#ahhf1 page #ih4 ,but as other questions
 were  involved in the same article1 and
 as the 8,,american ,,tailor0 pleased to
  notice me in #ahhc about a certain    
challenge1 ,i will reproduce the whole  
of it4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,xxii4  
,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,xxiii4           
,illustration3 ,,patriarch ,,militant4  
,illustration3 ,,clergyman',s ,,coat4   
,in #ahhb ,i had the following          
advertisement in the ,tiffin papers1 of 
which  ,i sent a copy to the 8,,american
 ,,tailor03                             
,,to ,,the ,,public4        ,having     
spent the best part of the last ten     
years in working out      a scientific  
calculation of the outlines of the human
 body1 ,i      have1 after endless ups  
and downs1 discovered1 and worked out1  

an entirely new and heretofore unthought
 of                        ,,principle  
,,of ,,garment ,,cutting4        ,i am  
now ready to announce that my customers 
may rest assured      that they will not
 only get a fashionable and well made   
suit of      clothing1 but that they    
shall also feel at home in it when they 
have it on4        ,lest it be said that
 this is only a new game of brag1 and to
      show that all present systems     
which are known are without a           
reliable base1 ,i make the following    
,challenge to any ,tailor or ,cutter of 
,gents' ,clothing from      ,anywhere3  
,to cut and make a frock coat1 a sack   
coat1 a vest1 a pair of      pantaloons1
 and a whole garment from neck to ankle 
without any      cross seams1 for a     
person of any shape or form1 whom none  
of us      have ever measured or made   
clothing for1 we will decide by lot--   
#ast4 ,by what system or rule the coat  
pattern shall be cut2        #b;d4 ,the 
number and size of gores--if any--the   

fore-parts shall      have1 and how many
 seams the sack coat shall have--#e1 #d1
 #c1 #b--or      entirely seamless1     
except shoulder and sleeve seams2       
#c;d4 ,how many seams the pants legs    
shall have2        #dth4 ,all widths and
 lengths of the several parts of each   
garment2        #eth4 ,all unforeseen   
questions arising from the above        
conditions4        ,each to pay his own 
expenses1 and all goods to be selected  
from      the same piece and made up in 
the same style4        ,no garment is to
 be tried on the person it is made for  
until at      a public trial1 when the  
judges1 selected by lot and who must    
not know who made them1 shall decide1   
and their decision must      be final4  
,this challenge shall stand good for    
three months1 unless sooner             
accepted4                               
,g4 ,f4 ,,hertzer4        ,,tiffin1 ,o41
 ,january1 #ahhb4    ,to which the      
8,american ,tailor0 replied in the      
,december number of #ahhc1 in  the      

following sarcastic style3              
8,,the ,,champion ,,cutter ,,of         
,,america40        8,according to the   
rules which govern sporting matters1 the
 town      of ,tiffin1 ,ohio1 has the   
proud distinction of being the abiding  
place of the champion cutter of         
,america4 ,mr4 ,g4 ,f4 ,hertzer1 the    
gentleman to whom we refer1 issued a    
challenge some two years      ago to all
 the cutters in the town of ,tiffin in  
particular1 and      those who might be 
scattered here and there through the    
rest of      the world1 in general1 to  
compete with him in a cutting match     
under certain conditions calculated to  
insure fairness4 ,as the      challenge 
was not accepted1 ,mr4 ,hertzer is1 as  
we understand      it1 entitled to the  
proud appellation of champion cutter of 
,america4 ,it is in full accordance with
 the eternal fitness of      things1    
that the championship should be located 
in ,ohio1 and in      the liberality of 
our heart we are perfectly willing that 

it      should remain there4 ,as ,mr4   
,hertzer's challenge was published      
in a local paper1 it is within the range
 of possibility that      it may not    
have been seen by several cutters1 whose
 fault or      misfortune it may be1 to 
dwell outside of the precincts of the   
town of ,tiffin4 ,but1 however1 this may
 be1 we are prepared to      admit that 
it is not likely any cutter in this     
country1 outside      of ,new ,jersey1  
would have had the temerity to have     
accepted it4      ,mr4 ,hertzer is1     
therefore1 fully warranted in asserting 
that1      #8this challenge has not been
 accepted by any one1 and now ,i        
claim that there is not a cutter or     
tailor inside or outside      of        
,tiffin1 who can accept and beat me1    
until he has my book on      cutting1   
which1 in due time will be published4'  
,about the only      suggestion that we 
are able to offer the profession1 by way
 of      consolation1 is that when ,mr4 
,hertzer's book shall be published      

they may be enabled1 by purchasing and  
studying it1 to compete      with the   
author with some faint hope of success4 
,meanwhile1      ,mr4 ,hertzer wears1 by
 virtue of the non-acceptance of his    
challenge1 the sonorous title of the    
champion cutter of ,tif--no1      of    
,america4 ,we take off our hat40        
,illustration3 ,,models4                
,illustration3 ,,as ,,the ,,collar      
,,should ,,be ,,pressed    ,when ,i sent
 the principle of ,diagrams ,,xxii and  
,,xxiii1 ,i enclosed the  following     
advertisement1 and other questions1     
which are explained in the  answer3     
8,be ,diligent to ,gain ,knowledge for  
,knowledge is ,power40                  
,,seven ,,powerful ,,reasons            
,why ,i claim that ,i cannot be beat    
,illustration        ,in fitting gents' 
and boy's garments and why ,i claim that
 ,i      can beat any cutter in fitting 
large waisted men or boys1 and          
persons with low shoulders or long      
necks4        #a4 ,i have spent more    

time1 more money and more brains on the 
science of gents' and boys' garment     
cutting than any other      cutter2 and 
,i can prove it4        #b4 ,i know more
 about cutting and fitting gents' and   
boys'      garments than any other      
cutter1 and ,i challenge any one to     
disprove that fact4        #c4 ,during  
the last four years ,i have challenged  
any cutter      or tailor to go with me 
in a cutting match and ,i have had no   
response4        #d4 ,i can alter and   
refit any misfitting garment which your 
tailor may have sponged on you as long  
as there is cloth enough      to do it  
with and the victim is willing to pay   
for it4        #e4 ,i furnish the       
material for garments cheaper than any  
other      merchant tailor and charge no
 more for my work than those who        
cannot make the above claims4        #f4
 ,selling from samples1 it is my        
interest to sell first-class            
material only4        #g4 ,i work and   
sell for cash4        ,the above reasons

 should induce everybody to entrust     
their next      order of clothing to    
your obedient servant1                  
,g4 ,f4 ,,hertzer4    ,illustration3    
,,shoulders4    7,from a circular of    
,wanamaker  ,brown47    ,illustration3  
,,pockets4    7,from a circular of      
,wanamaker  ,brown47    ,the following  
sledge hammer blows followed3    ,from  
the 8,,american ,,tailor0 of ,nov4      
#ahhf1 page #ih4                        
,,answer ,,to ,,correspondents4         
,mr4 ,g4 ,f4 ,hertzer1 of ,tiffin1      
,ohio1 asks us in a recent letter1      
to give a combination of a frock and    
sack1 having the same      shoulders and
 explain the difference in the seams and
 account      for the stretch1 or       
shrinkage of the frock coat waist seam1 
which can not be effected on a sack4 ,we
 are by no means certain      that we   
understand what our correspondent means1
 but we think1      that in the ,may and
 ,june numbers of this ,journal for     
#ahhd we      gave the desired          

information4 ,we cannot afford the time 
to      enter into lengthy explanations 
of a problem unless it is      clearly  
stated1 and of general interest4 ,mr4   
,hertzer also asks      the following   
questions3        #ast4 ,why we give    
,fine ,trade ,designs without sleeves8  
#b;d4 ,what we mean by 8half scye40 8,i 
asked10 he writes1 8the      opinion of 
several cutters4 ,one said it meant the 
half measure      of the armhole1 and   
another that it meant half the measure  
around the arm4 ,is either right8 ,if   
so1 can you find two      cutters who   
would not make one or two inches        
difference in that      measure80       
,in reply to the first question we would
 say that we have but      twice given a
 8,fine ,trade ,design0 without a sleeve
 draft4 ,in      one case we said that  
the sleeve should be drafted as taught  
in 8,theory and ,practice10 but in the  
other omitted to do so1      thinking1  
perhaps unwisely1 that our readers would
 understand      that it should be so   

drafted4        ,in reply to the second 
question1 we desire to say that by 8half
      scye0 we mean half scye1 not half 
knee1 nor half waist1 nor      half     
anything else4 ,the armhole of a coat is
 the scye1 but a      man's arm is not1 
therefore it is absurd to suppose we    
could      mean the measure around the  
arm4        ,if1 as our correspondent   
suggests1 there is a cutter living who  
cannot measure the scye twice without a 
variation of one or two      inches1 or 
if there is a cutter who cannot measure 
it fifty      times with less than      
one-eighth inch difference1 that cutter 
should devote his mind and muscle to hod
 carrying4        ,our correspondent    
sends us1 in his letter1 small drafts of
 two      trousers which look unlike    
each other1 and asks us to tell him     
how they differ1 and if each will fit   
the same man8        ,there seems to be 
no difference in the drafts1 except in  
the      location of the seams4 ,but    
whether there is or not is of little    

consequence4 ,life is too short for us  
to draft the patterns to      full size 
and devote an hour or so to the solution
 of a problem      of no importance4    
,mr4 ,hertzer concludes his letter as   
follows3 8,since the      foregoing was 
written1 ,i have received the           
#8,,american ,,tailor'      for this    
month and ,i see that others make the   
same request      about frock and sack  
coats4        ,as far as ,i know the    
diagram on page #gg may be suitable to  
others1 but ,i am not smart enough to   
derive any benefit from      it1 for it 
is not complete--frock coat skirt is not
 in full1 nor      are the fitting      
points given on the front shoulder1 and 
minus      sleeve4        ,should ,i use
 my own pattern and fail to make a good 
sack1 you      would say that my        
patterns are not correct1 or that ,i did
 not      follow your instructions4 ,it 
leaves too many holes for you to        
slip out of4 ,now if you would give all 
the fitting points1 then      we would  

have a fair chance to try it4 ,this is  
plain talk1 but      you always solicit 
the opinion of your subscribers1 and    
here is      mine without coloring40    
,this 8plain talk0 is about as silly as 
anything we ever read4      ,the draft  
referred to is an illustration of how to
 cut a sack      by a frock coat        
pattern1 and does clearly illustrate it4
 ,it was      not a coat system1 and the
 skirt of a frock coat has no more to   
do with it1 than a box of matches4 8,if 
a cutter drafts a sack      as we       
explained by a poor frock coat pattern1 
he will produce a      poor sack1 but if
 he uses a good model1 he will make a   
success      of it40 ,we don't 8slip    
out0 of anything1 as our correspondent  
intimates1 and certainly have wisdom    
enough to prevent our      making       
ourselves ridiculous by endeavoring to  
get down to his      intellectual level4
        ,in an advertisement which was  
enclosed in the letter under            
discussion1 ,mr4 ,hertzer says3 8,i have

 spent more time1 more      money1 and  
more brains on the science of gents' and
 boys'      garment cutting than any    
other cutter4 ,and ,i can prove it40    
,possibly if he had spent less brains1  
he would have on hand a      more       
liberal supply1 than he seems to have in
 stock at present4      ,so far the     
columns of the 8,,american ,,tailor40   
,the following local appeared in the    
,tiffin 8,,tribune0 of ,dec4 #ith1      
#ahhf3                           ,,talk 
,,about ,a ,,tailor4                 ,if
 ,you ,step on a ,man's ,corns ,he ,will
 ,howl4        ,this seems to be the    
case with the editor of the ,,american  
,,tailor4 ,the ,november number1 #ahhf1 
of that journal contains      over a    
column of red hot shot against our      
townsman1 ,g4 ,f4      ,hertzer1 for    
having an opinion of his own1 and       
claiming that      he has spent more    
8brains0 over the science of gentlemen's
 and      boys' garment cutting than any
 other cutter4 ,if the ,,american       

,,tailor wants to prove that ,g4 ,f4    
,hertzer is 8silly0 and with      8not  
much brains left10 he ought to come out 
and accept his      challenge for a     
cutting match1 and beat him on his own  
ground4      ,ridiculing him will not   
amount to anything as long as ,mr4      
,hertzer turns out such nice fitting    
garments as he does at      present4    
,a copy of which was sent to the editor 
of the ,,american ,,tailor1 and later   
,i have enclosed a clipping of it1 in   
every letter which ,i have sent to  that
 office1 but the editor being so far    
above my intellectual level1  never     
answered1 so far as ,i know4    ,now ,i 
have a ,christian spirit in me1 even if 
,i do not come up to be a  good         
,christian1 for it is my misfortune to  
be always below the level1 but  having  
received enough slaps to make one cheek 
sore1 ,i do now1 as a true  ,christian1 
offer the other side1 by asking more    
questions4    #ast4 ,why did you use a  
poor frock coat pattern1 for            

illustration1 as you  indicate1 by      
saying3 8,if a cutter drafts a sack as  
we explained by a poor  frock coat      
pattern10 etc48    #b;d4 ,will not the  
diagram on page #gg in the ,october     
number of #ahhf1 to  which ,i alluded1  
produce the half sack coat nearly  inch 
larger than the  frock1 by sewing one   
seam less on the sack8    #c;d4 ,will   
not the sack coat armhole be nearly     
inch longer over the back  for the same 
cause8    #dth4 ,will not the whole side
 of the back of the sack coat be nearly 
inch longer than the frock for the same 
reason again8    ,illustration3         
,,seamless ,,body4    ,the coat1 as     
represented by the above front and back 
views1 ,i have  on hand and intend to   
keep it1 and anyone can examine it and  
satisfy  himself that it is not         
misrepresented4 ,my intention of making 
it1 and  representing it in this book1  
was to illustrate what a hot iron and a 
skilfull workman can do with a straight 
piece of woolen4    #eth4 ,will not     

nearly  inch more width1 and nearly     
inch more length1 in  a sack coat back1 
produce the sack coat too large over the
 blade8    #fth4 ,will not the extra    
length of nearly  inch in the sack back 
armhole  produce too much under sleeve  
behind8    #gth4 ,must not all armholes 
of both frock and sack coats be the     
same1 if  one is to fit as good as the  
other8    #hth4 ,when was ,miss ,scye   
born8 ,in what dictionary did she live  
in #ahhf8  ,where is her headquarters   
now8 ,is she single1 or is she married  
to ,mr4  ,arm8        ,,note4--,fig4 ,i 
and ,fig4 and ,dia4 ,,xv1 and ,dia4     
,,ii1 ,x1 ,,xiv1 ,,xv1      ,,xix1 ,,xx1
 ,,xxi1 ,,xxii1 ,,xxiii1 were drawn and 
finished in ink by      myself1 and they
 are in my own writing4 ,all others were
 made      by regular artists1 as they  
claimed to be1 after my pencil          
drawings4 ,but the above mentioned had  
so many mistakes that      ,i had to    
throw them away and make new drawings4  
,all ,dia4 in      the ,supplement are  

my own drawing4 ,it may be that my lines
      and figures are not so nicely     
drawn1 but ,i know that they are        
correct and that they are plain4 ,it may
 also be1 that in the      opinion of   
some1 ,i have drawn too many lines and  
put on too      many numbers1 but this  
book is not written for professors      
alone1 but for students and new         
beginners in cutting1 as well      as   
for tailors1 and can not be made too    
plain4    ,illustration                 
,illustration          ,,under ,,sack   
,,coats4      ,for a three seamed under 
sack1 ,dia4 ,,iii and ,,viii answer all 
purposes4 ,the  parts of ,dia4 ,,iii    
place the height of back at #ac4 ,a     
five-seamed sack  is to be made1 for    
three reasons3 #ast4 ,in order to put in
 more waist  proportion in the side of  
the waist4 #b;d4 ,to fit the over-erect 
form4 #c;d4  ,to make an overcoat4 ,the 
normal form can be fitted with a        
three-seamed  under sack from the       
smaller sizes up to size #ch1 but the   

larger sizes out  to be cut as          
five-seamed1 because they usually       
require more waist4 ,it is  true smaller
 sizes have sometimes very large waists1
 but from one-half  to three-fourths    
addition to the side at line #ag will   
cover it4 ,boys  usually wear sack      
coats2 and1 guided by this work1 the    
breast measure for  a boy should not be 
taken looser than that for a man1       
because the scale  of one-half breast   
and #b in4 will provide for that1 to the
 full extent4    ,to make a five-seamed 
garment over ,dia4 ,,viii1 for the      
purpose of giving  more waist           
proportion1 simply enlarge the square1  
say #a inch1 and cut  out the surplus   
thus obtained from under the arm1 or    
still better1 leave  it on the coat as  
an outlet but allow the seam on the     
under arm cut4 ,i  wish to add1 however1
 that it is easy to stretch the         
side-piece on the  under arm cut when it
 is sewed up1 and it tends to improve   
the side if  properly done2 but if it is

 stretched at all1 it must be done so   
upward1  and whatever it is so          
lengthened1 say perhaps half an inch1   
must again be  reduced over the center  
of the back4 ,all this may look         
trifling1 but you  must remember that   
half an inch more or less cloth in the  
length of the  back will make quite a   
change in the fit4    ,to make a        
five-seamed garment1 for the purpose of 
fitting an erect form1  examine ,dia4   
,,viii1 and you will notice a dotted    
8,v0 on line #ag1 or at  the hollow of  
the waist4 ,at the side seam this wedge 
is five-eighths  of an inch1 and to fit 
the erect form this wedge must be folded
 up in  the pattern2 and to accomplish  
this on a flat paper the pattern must be
  cut through under the arm and above   
the point of the wedge1 when the  fold  
can be laid smoothly1 but the pattern   
will divide at the arm as an  artificial
 gore1 representing the gore sidewise4  
,the square will enlarge  in proportion 
to the gore cut1 and the upper portion  

of the back will  fall downward and     
shorten from its original position      
five-eighths1 or  the width of the fold 
at the side seam4 ,but although the back
 appears to  shorten on top it retains  
its balance over the shoulder blade4    
,the actual  shortness is at the hollow 
of the waist4 ,in folding up the gore   
across  the side piece will cause the   
side piece to make a sharp curve at the 
side1 and a sharp hollow or kink behind1
 and both must be straightened  by      
cutting away the curve at the side and  
by filling out the hollow  behind1 so   
that the under arm cut will represent   
two straight lines4 ,in  regulating the 
under arm gore1 two seams must again be 
allowed at the  armhole1 and the balance
 may be cut away1 or it may be used as  
an outlet1  which may come very handy   
sometimes4 ,in sewing up that gore1 the 
side  piece usually stretches easily    
upward1 say another three-eighths1 and  
said three-eighths must again be taken  
away from the length of the back  over  

the shoulder blade1 and for this reason 
,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia has the height of  back 
at #ab1 or #a less than ,dia4 ,,viii4   
,for further explanation of this fifth  
sack coat seam1 or under arm gore1  and 
as to the difference between the erect  
and the large waisted form1 ,i  refer to
 the article on large waists4    ,large 
waists and erect forms are mostly       
combined in one person1 because  when a 
person's waist grows forward the        
shoulders throw themselves  backward1 in
 order to keep the body in balance1 and 
if this would not be  the case1 a large 
waisted person would tumble forward     
unless supported  by something else4    
,anybody can see how this works4 ,take a
 normal waisted  form with a coat which 
fits well in the back and place a sack  
of flour1  or any other weight of fifty 
pounds1 in front of this waist1         
supported by  the arms1 and the whole   
upper body will throw itself backward in
 order to  keep its balance1 and the    
back of this coat will become too long  

across  the hollow of the waist behind1 
because the front of the coat cannot    
stretch like the body itself4           
,diagram ,v,i,i,ia is made especially   
for the erect form1 and is in all       
respects like ,dia4 ,,viii except the   
8,v0 closed up across the hollow of  the
 waist1 and the three-eighths stretch of
 the side piece upward1 and  the        
consequent shortening of the back of #a4
 ,the difference at the front  edge     
cannot be considered a fitting point4   
,if ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia is used for a  large
 waisted form1 which is mostly always   
erect1 then the gore between  the back  
and side piece should be cut like ,dia4 
,,viii1 or nearly so4 ,in  all cases1   
whenever the waist becomes fuller1 or   
the person more erect1  the spring over 
the seat may be enlarged1 and if it     
becomes too large1  it is less trouble  
to reduce it than if the spring is too  
small4 ,a good  outlet over the seat and
 center of back of a sack coat comes    
very handy  sometimes1 but such a seam  

should be sewed by hand1 because the    
machine  will usually cut its edges4    
,now1 in considering the above1 a cutter
 must observe if the form he  intends to
 fit is erect or stooping1 or large     
waisted1 or if there is a  combination  
of such1 or other abnormal conditions4  
,the single erect1 or  stooping1 or     
large waist1 or long or short necked    
person is very seldom  to be found2     
there is mostly a combination of two or 
three abnormal  conditions combined in  
one person4    ,the gores between the   
back and the fore part of both ,dia4    
,,viii and ,v,i,i,ia  are cut out pretty
 close at the hollow of the waist1 and  
it will never  hurt any sack1 cut over  
either of them1 to have one-half inch   
more at  line #ag4 ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia may  
be used for the normal form1 providing  
the depth  of the back is made #ab      
numbers above line #i1 and ,i have often
 used it  for such with good results4   
,a sack coat with two seams and which is
 intended to conform partly to the      

hollow of the waist in the back must    
have a spring over the center of  the   
seat1 starting at the most hollow part  
of the hollow of the waist4  ,said      
spring cannot be obtained by allowing it
 at the side of the back  which may be  
six or seven inches wide4 ,even if said 
spring were able to  push the coat back 
over the seat it would at the same time 
push the coat  upward and backward and  
away from the waist1 and make it too    
wide and too  long there4 ,the only way 
to make such a coat good is to cut the  
spring1  intended for the center of the 
back1 at the side1 and stretch the side 
of the back1 under the iron1 and at the 
hollow of the waist1 and press  the     
whole back in the shape of the pattern  
as in ,dia4 ,,viii and deduct the  seam 
behind4    ,sacks without any downward  
seams will never be in demand until we  
come  closer to oriental fashions1 or   
until we fall back upon cloaks4 ,for the
  purpose of finding out how close ,i   
could come to making a reasonably good  

fitting sack in the back of the waist1  
without any seams downward1 ,i have     
made four of them during the last #ab   
years4 ,the first one ,i had to rip up  
again and make it up into a smaller size
 as a three seamer4 ,the second  and    
third ,i sold as cheap coats and the    
purchasers never found out that  they   
wore seamless coats4 ,they were better  
than a great many five seamers  seen on 
the street1 though they were loose coats
 at and around the back  of the waist4  
,one of them ,i had photographed on     
myself1 both front and  back views1 and 
have the photo still in my possession4  
,one back and one  front view ,i sent to
 the office of the then 8,,american     
,,tailor10 and a  letter in my          
possession says that they consider it a 
good fit for such  a coat4 ,the last    
seamless coat ,i made last summer1      
#ahia1 and have it on  hand now1 and ,i 
intend to keep it at least for the      
present4 ,a front and  a back view of   
that coat will be found in 8,figures and

 ,diagrams40 ,for  the last six months  
,i have kept it for a show coat1 with a 
card on it  offering #be to any cutter  
or tailor who will make one like it1 and
 which  fits as good or better4 ,so far 
,i have had no call for the #be1 nor did
 ,i  expect a response1 because it will 
not pay anybody to make one even for    
#be1 and risk a fit4 ,i made the offer  
to advertise my work1 that was all4     
,the fit of a seamless coat must be put 
in by the maker1 and it takes a  cutter 
and a maker who knows what he is about1 
and one who don't care how  long it     
takes to make one and what it costs2 in 
fact1 it must be a work  done for       
pleasure--not for profit1 except perhaps
 to gain knowledge1 for  8,knowledge is 
,power40 ,now ,i will give a description
 of how such a coat  may be made3       
,select a good fitting sack coat pattern
 with three seams1 and one which  is not
 cut very close at the side of the      
waist1 that is a sack cut pretty        
straight4 ,the one ,i have on hand now  

is cut over ,dia4 ,,viii1 and as size   
#cf4 ,the height of the back above line 
#i over the front should not be over    
#ac1 but the top of the back should be  
placed at #b1 so that the portion  over 
the blade is short and the top of back  
cut close to the point of the  angle of 
#ace deg4 ,if the top of back becomes   
too close to the neck1 it  can be cut   
down after the coat is tried on4 ,on    
account of the short back1  the armhole 
must be cut pretty low and well forward4
 ,the front must also  be cut large and 
fitted to the body after the back has   
been regulated4  ,after the pattern is  
thus cut1 proceed as follows3 ,close the
 back and the  front from the bottom to 
the hollow of the waist1 lapping the    
seams2 at  the bottom of the armscye the
 front and back will lap over about #a  
inch2  fit the pattern to the back so   
that one seam is deducted from behind at
  the neck and at least two seams at the
 bottom1 so that the hollow of  waist   
shows as little surplus cloth as        

possible4 ,over the seat1 the  cloth may
 be stretched in width1 thus obtaining  
some artificial spring  over the seat4  
,cut the back1 and the back of the      
armhole to within #a  inch to the front 
of the armhole and not quite as deep as 
the pattern4 ,in  cutting the pattern   
the back shoulder seam must be cut      
pretty low at the  armhole and should be
 at least as low as #h for the reason   
that the lap of  the pattern at the side
 seam will bring both back and front    
shoulder seam  too close together and   
would have to be pieced1 but if the back
 shoulder  seam is thrown down1 and the 
front up1 both will come out right4 ,now
 the  next thing to be observed is to   
make an artificial wedge of whatever the
  back and the forepart lap at the      
bottom of the armscye1 running out to   
nothing at the waist4 ,this must be done
 by stretching the bottom of the        
armhole in width1 and which stretch must
 be extended down to the waist1  but    
nothing must be stretched at the waist1 

for the waist is too wide  already1     
owing to the hollow of the back1 in the 
pattern which can not  be imitated on   
the straight coat back4 ,that stretch   
must start at the  point of the shoulder
 blade say about #d in4 from the center 
of the back1  and must continue to the  
front of armhole4 ,the stretch will     
throw the  front of armhole forward of  
whatever the stretch amounts to1 and for
 this  reason1 the front of the armhole 
must be cut #a in4 backward1 of what it 
is intended to be4 ,after that          
artificial wedge is stretched in1 the   
back  side seam may be marked and       
stitches drawn in1 and the forepart     
fitted to  it and the front of armhole  
may be cut complete4    ,that all of    
this can not be done without trying on  
ever so many times  is self evident4    
,otherwise such a job must be made of   
material which  stretches well1 and must
 be made up thin and the lining put in  
plenty  large1 so it can give1 and it   
would be best to make up without lining4

  ,nothing can be accomplished by       
shrinking4 ,everything must be done by  
stretching4 ,plenty outlets should be   
left at the neck and shoulder seams  and
 in front of the breast4 ,such a coat   
can not be fitted on the cutting  board1
 but must be fitted on the body4    ,may
 be it is nonsense to write about a     
seamless coat1 but ,i have seen so  many
 absurd ideas advanced about cutting    
garments1 that this may not be  the     
worst4 ,but a cutter who knows the true 
difference between coats with  different
 seams1 certainly knows more than if he 
is compelled to swallow  anything the   
,fashion ,reports please to dish out for
 us1 in the shape of  diagrams for new  
8,styles40    ,illustration             
,illustration          ,,narrow ,,and   
,,broad ,,backs4      ,in the position  
of ,dia4 ,i or ,,iv1 it makes little    
difference if a back is  cut narrower or
 wider at the bottom of the armhole1    
because all parts lie  near to their    
natural position1 which they must assume

 when the garment  is on the body4 ,a   
narrower and a broader frock coat back1 
cut with the  same gore and with the    
same height as in ,dia4 ,,ii is apt to  
change the  fit and may spoil it        
entirely4 ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii1 ,,iii and ,,iv
 show a different  height of the back4  
,in ,dia4 ,i the height of front is #i  
and that of the  back is #ad4 ,in ,dia4 
,,iv the height of back is #ad on line  
#i in front4 ,in  ,dia4 ,,ii the height 
of back is #ae1 but at the junction of  
the back and the  sidepiece the line is 
dislocated and turned up1 #ae deg4 along
 the back4  ,in ,dia4 ,,iii the frock   
coat back is #ad above line #i1 and the 
sack coat  back is only #ac above line  
#i1 though both sack and frock coat     
backs are  even1 and the same1 from top4
 ,the difference of distance1 to the    
point1  where both strike line #i on the
 front is caused by the smaller frock   
coat  back and the wider sack coat back 
at their junction1 and that position    
must be well understood by a cutter1    

because most all diagrams sent out  by  
,reporters of ,fashions are laid out in 
position as ,dia4 ,,ii1 or nearly  so1  
not because it is a true position1 but1 
because all parts can be cut  without   
piecing4    ,now1 it must be admitted1  
that the position of the front1 the back
 and  the sidepiece of ,dia4 ,i are     
nearer in position to the body1 at1 and 
around the waist1 than ,dia4 ,,ii or    
,,iii1 and though ,dia4 ,i is not in    
perfect harmony with the body1 we must  
admit1 that ,dia4 ,,ii and ,,iii are    
far more out of the way4 ,it will be    
seen1 that if the frock coat back of    
,dia4 ,i were cut #a in4 wider at the   
junction with line #i over the front1   
it would become  shorter on top as soon 
as it was thrown in position of  ,dia4  
,,ii1 and the variation would be still  
greater1 if it were done on a  broad    
sack coat back4 ,observe that the frock 
coat back in ,dia4 ,,iii is  higher on  
and above line #i1 but when both are    
thrown down and in at the  waist and    

parallel with the front base1 both will 
assume the same height4  ,as long as all
 the parts are cut in the same          
proportion1 it matters  little or       
nothing in what position we place them  
on the cutting board1  but it matters a 
great deal whether they are in the right
 position when  on the body4    ,the    
angle of #ace deg4 is always the same1  
and from it the shoulder slope  is #bb  
deg41 but1 if we take the square of #ag 
and make calculations from  that base1  
the shoulder slope is #cj deg41 but the 
parts are all the same4  ,as long as the
 diagrams are laid out in a square of   
#bj1 as ,dia4 ,i and ,,iv1  the back may
 be made a trifle narrower or wider1 and
 it will not endanger  the fit of the   
garment1 although it is always bad      
policy to change  a diagram1 and        
particularly a curved seam4 ,a seam     
always represents  something taken out1 
or something placed there1 and a seam   
calculated for  a certain point1 and #a 
in4 one way or the other may make a     

decided change  in the appearance1 or in
 the fit4    ,the simplest garment is   
the vest as far as ,merchant ,tailoring 
goes2 but  simple as it is1 there are   
seldom two cutters who produce it in the
 same  way1 and with the same result2   
and the same is true of coat and pants4 
,this goes far to show that no true     
system of garment-cutting is in         
existence1 or if it be1 it is in the    
hands of cutters who do not know it  as 
such1 even by those who may use         
it--certain it is1 that no such system  
is in print4    ,now1 ,i will consider  
the vest in its natural position1 on a  
square of #bj1  although the gore under 
the arm will bring it out of that       
position again  as soon as the seam is  
sewed up4 ,back and front being in their
 natural  positions1 or nearly so1 we   
can cut the under arm seam further      
backward  or forward without injury to  
the fit4 ,but as soon as we make the    
width of  the back considerably wider or
 smaller1 we find that the height of the

  back above the arm-hole changes--when 
the back is thrown into an angle  of #ae
 deg41 or in a square of #ag4 ,the      
smaller the back is cut1 on the  square 
of #bj1 the shorter it will become above
 the armscye1 when thrown  in a square  
of #ag1 providing always that the       
turning of the back starts  somewhere at
 line #i1 which crosses line #aa under  
the armhole1 at an  angle of #ae deg4   
,when both frock and sack backs are     
thrown downward and in a square with    
line #i1 or parallel to the front base1 
then it will be found that the  backs   
are all of the same length4 ,further1 ,i
 refer to ,dia4 ,,iii1 and line  #i on  
the front base4 ,lines #i and #aa cross 
each other in the center of a  square of
 #bj1 and the crossing lines are at an  
angle of #ae deg41 for the  simple      
reason that their bases are #ae deg4    
apart4 ,the width of an angle  of #ae   
deg4 is  of its length4 ,in the case of 
forming a diagram within  a circle1 and 
on a diameter of #bj units1 as in this  

work1 we find the  half-diameter #aj    
units1 or #aj in41 or #aj numbers of the
 scale1 just as  we may please to term  
it4 ,that angle of #ae deg4 is #b in4   
wide at #aj in4  length4 ,it spreads  of
 an inch in every inch of its length4   
,now1 in case of cutting a vest1 the    
back and front are cut through in  the  
center of the square of #bj on line #i1 
and if the back is swung into  a square 
of #ag and parallel to line #aa1 the    
height of back remains #ad4  ,but had   
the back been cut #a in4 wider1 its     
height would be #ad2 and had  it been #a
 in4 smaller1 the height would be #ac4  
,had the back been cut #c  in4 smaller1 
as for a sack coat1 its height would    
become #ac1 and had the  back been cut  
#f in4 smaller1 that is1 #d in4 wide1   
then its height would  become #ab only4 
,this is a regular 8,fig4-mill10 and has
 been bothering me for the last ten     
years1 and strange as it may appear1 ,i 
could never comprehend it myself1  much 
less explain it to others1 until now and

 during the years of #ahhh  and #ahhi4  
,here1 then1 is the result3 ,if we have 
a good pattern we cannot  change the    
width of the back while it remains in an
 angle of #ae deg41  or in a square of  
#ag1 without changing the height above  
the armscye4  ,all patterns1 or most all
 of them1 are cut in1 or pretty nearly  
in the  position of the angle of #ae    
deg41 or the square of #ag1 for the     
reason  that it is the most convenient  
way of cutting4 ,a cutter must          
understand  that2 and1 although it is   
convenient to the cutter1 the parts of  
the  garment are in an unnatural        
position at the waist1 and he must be   
able to  know how much they are at      
variance4    ,during the last ten years 
,i have been pronounced as a 8crank0    
when ,i  claimed that ,i would yet show1
 that the height of the top of the back 
depended upon its width at the bottom of
 the armscye and not upon certain  proof
 measures which are not proof at all4   
,as to 8crankism10 ,i can  console      

myself with the host of 8cranks0 who    
have preceded me1 and  who are to-day   
revolutionizing the world with their    
so-called cranky  ideas4 ,if it were not
 for the 8cranks10 the oxen would still 
be the  principal 8threshers0 of the    
wheat to-day4 ,persons of small minds1  
and contracted ideas1 who have never had
 an idea which they could sell  for     
anything1 or which anybody would accept 
for nothing1 are the ones  who are quick
 with reproaching another for being     
8cranks40 ,but the term  8crank0 has no 
reproach for me1 because all the various
 machinery  which is used throughout the
 world to-day is turned and kept in     
motion  by some kind of a crank1 no     
matter if it be turned by hand1 or foot1
  or by horse or steam power1 or by     
electricity4 ,without 8cranks0  the     
world's machinery would soon rust1 but  
as long as the boiler is not  bursted1  
or the crank is not broken1 just so long
 will we be kept flying1  and by        
constant friction1 we will be kept      

bright1 and we shall be able  to fulfill
 our destiny in this world1 by doing our
 share toward making  mankind1 whatever 
the ,supreme ,architect has ordained it 
to be4    ,garment fitting is not a     
positive rule4 ,a garment is not made of
 sheet  iron1 where every sixteenth of  
an inch variation would give a great    
amount of friction4 ,a garment that     
cannot stand one-eighth to one-fourth   
of an inch variation on almost any point
 is a misfit from the start4  ,again1   
the present style of men's garments is  
loose--always has been and  always will 
be4 ,even when tight pants were in      
fashion they were loose  over the body  
itself4 ,who will be umpire in the case 
of fits8 ,who will  prove that a certain
 pants leg must be just so wide in order
 to make a  fit1 or conform to style8   
,who will contend that the waist of a   
coat must  have just so much space1 and 
no more nor less1 to make a fit8 ,almost
 any  reasonably well fitting coat can  
stand a little alteration in the heighth

  of the neck one way or another without
 injuring it4 ,a well balanced #cf  coat
 will hang well on sizes #ce and #cg4   
,if that is the case 7and very  few will
 dispute it71 then it proves that a well
 balanced coat may be an  excellent fit 
even if it has more or less cloth       
surface in some places  than it might   
have4    ,dia4 ,,iii is especially made 
to illustrate my idea about the width of
 the  back part of different garments1  
at the bottom of the armscye4 ,the vest1
  with its height of back at #ad1 might 
also be placed thereon1 but it is  not1 
because ,i thought too many lines would 
spoil the illustrations4    ,in         
practical garment cutting1 a cutter is  
often compelled to cut some  backs      
narrower or smaller on the same kind of 
a garment in order to save  material1 or
 in some cases1 when a larger garment is
 to be cut down to a  smaller size1     
where the points around the back of the 
armhole1 or at the  shoulders1 cannot be
 made even with our patterns1 then it   

comes handy  for a cutter1 if he be     
able1 to place certain quantities on    
either back  or front and take it off on
 the other4 ,whenever that has to be    
done1 lay  your garments1 or the        
pattern1 out in a square of #bj or its  
equivalent1  and change the parts in    
that position1 and the lengths of the   
backs will  take care of themselves4    
,this brings me to another point4 ,an   
extremely broad frock coat back at  the 
bottom line of the armhole requires a   
pretty straight sidepiece  toward the   
back1 and such a seam may be the better 
off1 if the back is  held a trifle full 
over the blade2 while an extremely      
narrow frock coat  back requires a very 
curved sidepiece toward the back1 and   
such a back  should be basted or sewed  
pretty close on the sidepiece toward the
 blade4  ,each of such backs assumes a  
different height of back when laid out  
in  the angle of #ae degrees1 and each  
requires a different treatment when     
sewed on the sidepiece4    ,all the     

heights of the frock and sack coat backs
 in this work are  calculated to be of  
certain width at lines #i and #aa over  
the front1 and  all back widths at that 
point should be as shown in the         
diagrams4 ,the  swing of the back1 or   
the turning point of it1 is calculated  
from line  #i1 no matter if the back    
lays in a square of #bj1 or if the back 
part of  that line be turned #ae        
degrees4 ,no article in this work is    
more important  than this one1 and every
 cutter should make himself thoroughly  
familiar  with its meaning1 because it  
is a new idea in garment cutting1 and ,i
 will  predict that in the ,twentieth   
,century all cutters will recognize that
  principle4 ,it may be brought to a    
finer point1 but the principle will     
stand as long as the square and the     
compass are recognized and used4        
,neither do ,i expect such recognition  
without some 8tall kicking0 for  few men
 will acknowledge that they have been   
groping in the dark while  they have    

been claiming that they knew all that is
 worth knowing about  garment cutting4  
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,the ,,neckhole ,,and ,,shoulder       
,,seam4      ,if it is not desired to   
connect the sleeve pattern into the     
armhole and  on both seams1 the shoulder
 seam may be cut into any shape or form 
as  long as the balance is retained2 but
 whenever we intend to connect the      
sleeve with the armhole1 as in ,dia4    
,,ii or ,,vii1 we must cut the normal   
shoulder seam with a lap or spring of   
from three-eighths to one-half  at the  
neck1 and which lap must be run down    
fully to the middle of the  shoulder    
seam and then reduced to nothing at the 
armhole1 and in such  a shape that the  
front part is on a curve4 ,on a vest the
 angle of #ace  degrees furnishes the   
correct slope1 and with the neck band   
properly  worked and turned up1 gives   
enough spring around the side of the    
neck4  ,but a vest collar and necktie   
give more bulk1 and a coat is also cut  

closer to the center of the neck1 and   
consequently a coat requires  more      
width1 or spring1 in and on top of the  
shoulder seam1 of which  three-eighths  
is enough and five-eighths not too much1
 but it is always  better to cut that   
part close1 so that the collar may be   
sewed on easily2  that is1 the sides of 
the neck stretched say about one-quarter
 of an  inch4 ,again1 the coat collar   
gives more bulk than the vest collar and
 for  this reason the overcoat requires 
three-fourths spring1 as in ,dia4 ,x1   
which is cut still closer to the neck4  
,policy1 no doubt1 has caused the       
fashionable shoulder seam to be thrown  
backward of the center of the shoulder1 
for the reason that it passes  nearer to
 the shoulder blade1 and a curved       
shoulder seam helps to fit it4  ,if the 
shoulder seam were located on top of the
 shoulders it could not be  curved1 but 
would necessarily be hollow in the      
center1 though the back  and front lap  
at the neck4 ,the position of the       

shoulder seam as in ,dia4  ,,ii allows  
the sleeve to be connected with the coat
 on both the back and  front seams1 and 
the lap of sleeve and shoulder give the 
sleeve enough  width for all fulling    
purposes1 and the sleeve can never be   
too large or  too small4 ,i have tried  
my utmost to lay the shoulders in such a
 position  that no lap would be found at
 the shoulder seam2 but1 after ,i       
considered  that the back is never cut  
on the shoulders1 ,i came to the        
conclusion  that the said spring might  
just as well be there1 inasmuch as by   
its use  a more correct sleeve          
connection can be made4    ,on account  
of the lap between the back and front at
 the shoulder seam  the top of that seam
 at the neck can not properly be        
connected1 and for  this reason should  
be notched at the center4 ,the lap      
between the back and  front of the      
shoulder seam and toward the neck may be
 accounted for in a  different way1 and 
as follows3 ,the diameter of the body at

 the center of  the back and center of  
front is almost double what it is at the
 arms1 and  if we turn the back forward 
and the front backward so that both meet
 at  the shoulder seams1 then the center
 of the body1 or the side of the neck1  
requires a longer swing than the side of
 the body at the arms1 hence the  three 
to five-eighths more at the neck4       
,the five-eighths lap at about eight    
numbers from ,o1 may also be accounted  
for as being required for the roundness 
of the shoulder blade1 which is         
partially reached by the shoulder seam  
of a coat4 ,between the top of  the     
shoulder seam and eight numbers from ,o1
 the lap1 of whatever it is  made1      
should not be even1 but should be a     
trifle less a few inches below  the     
neck1 say one-eighth to three-sixteenth 
of an inch1 as shown in the  diagrams4  
,this will give the finished shoulder a 
better appearance than  if cut and made 
flat4 ,the shoulders are hollow there1  
and the coat must  conform to that1     

because a coat must fit there to the    
body and must be  made to fit to the    
body there1 it must hang and balance    
itself there1 and  if it don't fit there
 it must make a break1 and in fact this 
is the only  place where a coat is      
required to actually fit the body4      
,the shoulder seam for a vest must also 
be considered in particular4 ,dia4  ,,iv
 gives the vest shoulder seam without   
lap or gore upon the angle of #ace      
degs41 and the top of back is cut as    
wide1 at point #e1 as the angle of #de  
degs41 and it may be cut one-half inch  
wider in order to bring it fully  to the
 side of the neck1 where the spring is  
required1 but it should not  be over #c 
numbers4 ,dia4 ,,iv requires that in    
finishing the neck1 the  neckband must  
be cut long and sewed on full at the    
shoulder seam1 say  one-quarter inch1 or
 plainer1 the back should be stretched  
that much at  and close to the shoulder 
seam4 ,if a cutter prefers to sew the   
neck band  even on the back1 he must    

allow one-quarter to three-eighths      
spring at  the top of the shoulder seam1
 and at the back1 starting it about two 
inches downward4    ,now it will be     
found that by reducing the spring at the
 neck of a coat  to nothing1 but leaving
 the five-eighths lap toward the blade1 
the great  majority of stooping forms   
may be fitted1 for it makes the front   
shoulder  shorter1 and that is all that 
a forward leaning neck requires4        
,stooping  persons often throw their    
shoulders up1 and such must be          
considered a  combination of stooping   
and square shoulders4 ,the lap of from  
three  to five-eighths must always      
depend upon how the collar is sewed on4 
,a  three-eighths lap and one-quarter   
stretch of the neck-hole makes a better 
shoulder than a five-eighths lap with   
the collar sewed on close4 ,a tight     
collar around the back and side will    
always spoil the shoulder4 ,if a  coat  
be too wide there1 sew in the shoulder  
seam1 but never draw in the  side or the

 back of the neck with a short collar4  
,a square shoulder may  be produced by a
 lap of one-half between the back and   
front shoulder  seam toward the shoulder
 blade1 and no lap at the neck1 and     
placing top  of back at #c4 ,the armhole
 itself must be the same for both the   
square  and for the low shoulder1 or the
 long neck4 ,the lap of the shoulder    
seam  requires that seam to be nicked as
 shown in the diagram4 ,it is better    
all around if the jour4 has a sure point
 at the middle to connect said  seam1   
when he can baste up and down4 ,he is   
less apt to throw one side up  and the  
other down than if he makes the         
connection at the neck or at the        
armhole4 ,to connect the shoulder seam  
with a satisfactory result1 square  up  
from line #aa and in front of armhole1  
and nick each back and each  front on   
said line1 which is even1 to moving the 
forepart down on the  front plumb line  
until the shoulders meet4 ,in sewing the
 shoulder seam  together the back should

 always be a trifle the fullest1 because
 the back  passes over the round        
shoulder blade and the front passes over
 the hollow  on top of the shoulders1   
and should be stretched a trifle4 ,by a 
trifle ,i  mean about one-eighth of an  
inch on each side of the nick4          
,locating the connecting point at the   
center in the shoulder seam1 the  jour4 
must be instructed to baste up and down1
 and if any part is too  wide at the    
neck or at the armhole1 to trim it off  
or let it stand as an  outlet1 but in   
all cases insist that both neck and     
armhole must have a  nice slope after   
the collar is sewed on1 or the sleeve is
 sewed in4 ,if  the cutting is done     
according to this work1 there will be no
 trouble in  obtaining a nice round     
armhole4    ,illustration               
,illustration          ,,collars4       
7,,see ,,dia4 ,,vii47      ,all top     
collars should be cut bias and without a
 seam behind4 ,all under  collars should
 be put on rather loose1 but not full1  

at the side of the  neck4 ,the principle
 of a standing collar must be well      
understood1 for  it is a permanent      
thing1 and to be applied equally in the 
construction  of all garments with      
collars1 no matter if it is standing    
alone or if a  turn-down piece is       
attached to it4 ,it is true1 a separate 
collar can be  fitted to the neck in any
 shape1 and may be so fitted that the   
forepart  and collar meet in front1     
allowing the standing portion over the  
back to  go down anywhere4 ,but this is 
not the principle for a standing collar1
  for the reason that it cannot so be   
applied on a vest1 or any other         
garment1 with the standing collar cut on
 the forepart4 ,the neck-band of  a     
vest1 or the standing collar of any     
garment1 has a certain function to      
perform4 ,whenever a vest is on the     
angle of #ace deg41 the neck-hand must  
lap over the back a certain distance1 as
 shown in the diagrams4 ,whenever  the  
neck is finished1 said band is turned   

upward to the top of the neck1  and in  
so doing it will form a spring near the 
shoulder seam to permit  the neck to    
pass through2 and it is just the same   
whether a turn-down  piece or a         
turn-down collar is attached to it or   
not4 ,if the neck-band is  cut too low  
behind1 it will form too much spring and
 the vest will be too  wide at the side 
of the neck1 and must be shrunk1 which  
will never make  a well-fitting job4 ,if
 the band is cut too high at the back   
center1 it  will not have spring enough 
at the side1 and the vest must be       
stretched1  which1 however1 can be done 
better than if drawn in4 ,but in either 
case1  whether stretching or shrinking  
is required1 ,i would advise the band   
being ripped open1 the stiffening taken 
out1 and re-shaped under the  iron1     
which can easily be done4 ,if a garment 
is worth altering at all1 it  is worth  
altering correctly4    ,a coat or vest  
of the present style1 and likely to be  
for many years to  come1 is intended to 

reach up to the side of the neck where  
it 7the neck7  shoots nearly straight   
upward4 ,the collar being an addition to
 the coat1  it must be so constructed   
that it will turn aside and permit the  
neck to  pass through4 ,now1 the        
position of the standing part of a coat 
collar  must be the same as on a vest1  
where the standing collar is not cut    
off1  for it performs the same function4
 ,take any good coat pattern that is    
furnished by a reliable firm and lay the
 parts out as in this book1 and  put the
 bottom of the standing part of the     
collar at the point indicated  in the   
vest diagrams1 and you will find that   
the front of the neck and  front of the 
collar will not fit together1 but lap   
over each other from  #a to #c in4      
according to the size of the roll4 ,the 
more it laps1 the less  roll it will    
produce1 and if the collar and neck-hole
 were cut evenly in  front1 the collar  
would pull the lapel down to the bottom 
of the skirt4  7,see ,dia4 ,,vii47    ,i

 must repeat1 however1 that it is almost
 impossible to give a positive  distance
 for the lap of the coat lapel1 or a    
positive shape of the  collar4 ,we must 
watch fashion1 and see how high the     
standing collar is1  how much the       
turn-down is behind1 or how wide the    
front is to be4 ,a  competent coat-maker
 can take almost any piece of bias cloth
 and canvas  and press it into shape to 
make a good collar1 but experience      
proves that  not all coat-makers will or
 can do it4 ,a vest with the standing   
collar  cut off must have the neck cut  
out at the side1 and at the angle of #de
  deg41 at least from #d to #d2 because 
the sewed-on standing collar must  fill 
the place of the neck-band of a vest    
with the collar cut on4 ,all  vests with
 the standing collar cut on should have 
the top of the back cut  as wide as the 
angle of #de deg4 at least1 in order to 
bring the spring1  created by the       
turning upward of the neck-band1 to the 
side of the neck4  ,if the top of the   

back is cut too narrow the spring will  
locate too far  behind1 and will be     
loose there1 while at the side of the   
neck it may be  too tight4 ,all vests1  
with and without turn-down collars1     
should be cut  alike at the neck4 ,the  
turn-down part of the collar is simply a
 piece cut  just like the neck of the   
vest1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,iv4    ,now1  
it should be observed that if ,dia4 ,,iv
 is made without a turn-down  collar the
 edge must be turned in1 consequently it
 loses a seam at the  side of the neck1 
which seam must be reduced on a vest    
with a turn-down  collar1 because the   
edge is not turned in1 but covered over 
with the  top collar1 and the difference
 should be at least  of an inch--that   
is1  for a turn-down collar the         
neck-band at the side of the neck should
 be  reduced  of an inch1 starting at   
the center of the back and running out  
to nothing anywhere in front4 ,in all   
cases the bottom of the neck-band       
remains at #e on the angle of #de deg41 

as in ,dia4 ,,iv4 ,this manner of       
cutting a vest for a turn-down collar   
enables the cutter to curve the  neck   
just as he pleases1 as the turn-down    
piece will always follow the  curve4    
,in this connection it would1 no doubt1 
be proper to speak of the cutting  of   
the top-collar and its dressing1 or     
pressing in shape1 before it is  put on1
 in order to produce the curve of the   
flat top-collar4    ,to cut the         
top-collar1 turn the underside upward in
 front and above the  top button1 and   
even with the fore-part as far up as    
possible4 ,according  to the prominence 
of the curve1 the top of the            
under-collar will fall  over toward the 
arm-hole and toward the shoulder seam1  
and in this shape  the top-collar must  
be cut2 and1 by all means1 should be on 
the bias1  on the most hollow part of   
the curve4 ,in making up1 the inside    
part of  the top-collar must be well    
stretched1 and pressed over1 and shaped 
to  the curve of the under-collar1 and  

for this reason must be cut bias4 ,the  
collar and the whole facing can be      
dressed under the smoothing iron just   
as the curve of the vest requires it by 
turning and pressing the standing       
collar part under4 ,it requires a few   
extra touches to shape the top  collar1 
and some cloth may be wasted in order to
 get it bias1 but this is  the best     
manner in which to make a well curved   
collar on a low-cut vest4    ,if any one
 will look up the authority on the      
cutting of garments of from  #cj to #dj 
years ago1 and particularly the works of
 ,genio ,c4 ,scott1 he  will find that  
at that time vests 8without0 collars    
were produced by  sewing on a neck-band 
with a 8,v0 attached to it in the same  
shape as ,i  have shown the front of the
 standing collar part in ,dia4 ,,vii4   
,this 8,v0  sewed in produced the spring
 at the side of the neck4 ,that         
sometimes  proved a difficult task for  
me while learning the trade in order to 
get  in a nice 8,v10 and ,i suppose it  

would be a difficult task for some of   
our  journeymen of to-day4 ,but the     
world is progressing4 ,to-day we        
accomplish  it with a straight piece1   
and do it just as well1 and perhaps     
better4 ,all  that is necessary for us  
to observe is1 that the shoulder seam   
points to  the side of the neck where   
the spring is required4    ,but1 for the
 purpose of variety1 ,i will propose    
another plan4 ,cut the  vest as in ,dia4
 ,,iv4 ,leave off the neck-band and     
simply add  of an inch  to the top of   
the back and running out to nothing at  
about #c inches below  the shoulder     
seam4 ,at the middle of the shoulder    
seam commence and put in  a spring of   
about #a in41 giving half to the front  
and half to the back2  then sew up1 and 
you will find the same task             
accomplished4    ,if we turn the        
neck-band in ,dia4 ,,iv upward until it 
meets with the top  of the back1 we     
shall find that a fold of about #a inch 
will form on and  above the shoulder    

seam1 and all that is necessary is to   
imitate this  by cutting a spring of    
inch to both the back and front at the  
top of  the shoulder seam or at point   
#e4 ,it is somewhat of a question       
whether it  would be advisable to cut   
vests in this manner1 but they can be as
 far as  the fit is concerned1 more     
particularly those cut with a cloth     
back4    ,now ,i must say a word about  
coat collars in particular4 ,in visiting
  different tailor shops we find that   
the dressing of the under-collar  is    
accomplished in many different ways1 and
 for aught ,i know all may  be right--if
 they suit the customer1 or if the      
collar is on1 as it is  required by the 
coat4 ,coats which require a collar to  
be stretched nearly  into a circle      
around the back are often cut too low or
 too wide at the  neck4 ,for such a     
round-shaped collar may be required to  
close well in at  the neck1 but it will 
never make an elegant job1 and such     
coats usually  indicate too much cloth  

in the shape of wrinkles below the      
collar1 or on  the top of the shoulders4
 ,a collar must not run with the slope  
of the  shoulders1 but must turn upward 
at the side of the neck to permit it to 
pass through4 ,it must stand up1 no     
matter if a turn-down part is cut  on or
 if it stands alone1 as on military or  
clergymen's coats4 ,a well  fitting     
military or clergyman's coat requires   
for its standing collar  nothing but a  
straight piece of cloth1 and sewed on   
straight4 ,it will not  be too loose at 
the top1 nor will it 8saw0 the neck sore
 in half an hour4    ,now1 a coat       
collar1 with a turn-down1 represents a  
standing collar over  the top of the    
back and side of the neck1 as shown in  
,dia4 ,,vii1 and on  that piece or wedge
 the turn-down part is added4 ,this     
wedge1 or the  standing collar as shown 
in ,dia4 ,,vii1 must retain its shape as
 on a vest1  but as soon as the standing
 collar is stretched at the bottom the  
spring  at the neck is destroyed1 and a 

tight or flat collar is the result at   
the side of the neck4 ,but to fit the   
standing collar and turn-down part      
together1 so that the turn-down part is 
so much larger that it will go  around  
the standing part without strain1 the   
collar should be dressed as  follows3   
,lay the whole under-collar flat on the 
table and turn and press  the standing  
part up where it belongs1 without       
stretching the outer edge  of the       
turn-down part1 and the collar is done4 
,whatever is trimmed off  in front      
depends upon how far the lapel is to be 
drawn down4 ,in this  respect we all can
 learn something from an ordinary paper 
collar1 which  is a quite flat piece of 
paper--the break is not on a straight   
line1 but  on a curve of about half an  
inch at the center behind1 and they all 
fit  well4 ,many a cutter and many a    
journeyman would profit by studying the 
principle of a turn-down paper collar4  
,of late years a great many overcoats1  
and especially ulsters1 have been  made 

with very wide collars1 turning down    
about five inches or more4 ,such  necks 
should be cut with the standing collar  
on the top of back and on  the side of  
the forepart and running out to a point 
at or near the front  sleeve base1 and  
an extra spring of not less than one    
inch added to each  shoulder seam1 and  
evenly divided on back and on front4    
,this addition  furnishes the standing  
part of the collar1 and the turn-down   
collar part  is put on1 just as it is   
put on to the vest1 which will give form
 to the  shape of the shoulder and not  
lie flat1 as most of such collars are   
seen  to-day4    ,see collar as it is to
 be pressed4    ,illustration           
,illustration          ,,armhole ,,and  
,,sleeve4    7,,see ,,dia4 ,,vii47      
,both armhole and sleeves as well as the
 shoulder seam are very closely         
connected1 and must harmonize4 ,no      
matter in what position we choose to    
place the different parts of a frock or 
sack while cutting1 they must all       

assume the same position at and around  
the armhole and shoulders when on  the  
body4 ,the question of locating the     
front of the armhole is solved in  the  
application of the angle of #ace deg4   
,the normal form has its arms  at the   
center and side of the body1 and ,dia4  
,i has its armhole in its  center and   
side4 ,if the old rule--front of armhole
  half-breast from  back--holds good1   
then the back of the armhole must also  
be equally good  at  half-breast from   
the front base1 as in ,dia4 ,i4 ,there  
is no question  but that the armhole may
 be made more or less without injury to 
the fit  as long as the sleeve fits into
 the armhole4 ,the front of the armhole 
is  located two seams back of #de deg41 
from the starting point1 and on the     
front base1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,vii4    
,this gives an easy-fitting armhole for 
a well-built form1 but if the armhole is
 cut forward to meet the front  sleeve  
base1 it will not injure the coat4      
,it is generally claimed that a stooping

 form requires its armhole more         
forward1 and an erect form more         
backward1 but this is not always true4  
,we find plenty of forms which bend the 
back1 and throw the neck downward  in   
front1 but throw the arms and shoulders 
backward1 and which forms do  not       
require their armholes forward of the   
normal position4 ,we also find  forms   
which are very erect or straight in the 
back but throw their arms  forward1 and 
do require the armholes forward from the
 normal position4  ,now1 no matter if   
the form is erect or stooping1 the      
armholes do not  require to be larger or
 smaller4 ,because a man throws his arms
 forward  or backward does not show that
 his arm becomes larger or smaller4 ,if 
the  armhole is required to be cut  an  
inch more forward the back should  be   
that much wider4 ,if the armhole is cut 
an inch backward the back  becomes  an  
inch smaller--the location of the       
armhole changes1 not the  armhole4    ,a
 cutter must also take into account the 

occupation of a customer4 ,a  musician  
who blows a great horn requires his     
armholes backward1 and a  full breast1  
while a person who plays the violin     
requires his armholes  pretty well      
forward1 or1 at least1 he needs extra   
length in the back  sleeve seam1 no     
matter if it is a trifle loose when the 
sleeve drops  downward4 ,but if         
everything is well balanced it is       
wonderful how small1  and again how     
large1 an armhole a man can have in his 
coat and feel good  in either of them4  
,but as stated1 the sleeve must fit into
 the armhole1  and for this reason we   
must consider the sleeve in particular4 
,when one or both arms are thrown into a
 horizontal position they show          
themselves as a sidewise growth of the  
body1 like the limb of a tree1  and     
consequently have their base in the     
center of the back1 or in the  center of
 the front4 ,for the purpose of         
permitting the arms to drop down  to the
 side1 a wedge1 or gusset1 or a lap1 is 

made between the top of the  armhole and
 sleeve1 which is taken up when the arm 
drops down into its  natural position at
 the side4    ,at #fj deg4 from the     
center of the back the sleeve and the   
shoulder lap #b  numbers for a          
close-fitting sleeve1 and it is so shown
 in ,dia4 ,,vii and  ,x4 ,at #de deg4   
from the back1 or at the top square line
 from the front  base1 the sleeve and   
shoulder lap #b numbers4 ,while the lap 
of #b at #de  deg41 may be considered as
 a permanent thing for all sleeves1 the 
lap  at #fj deg4 may be considered as   
changeable1 according to the style of   
the sleeve head1 or according to the    
kind of the coat1 as over or under      
coats4 ,the lap of shoulder and sleeve1 
at #fj deg41 also depends upon a  low or
 a square shoulder1 as well as upon a   
broad or a narrow style of  the         
shoulder4 ,two and a quarter may be     
taken as the smallest amount to be      
allowed at #fj deg41 and #b may be      
considered not too much for any style1  

and #b may be considered plenty for a   
very full sleeve head and a narrow      
style of shoulders4    ,at right angles 
with the center of the back and through 
the point of the  angle of #ace deg41 is
 the front sleeve base1 to which the    
front sleeve  seam is connected at point
 #aa1 and from which line the normal    
form  requires the front of armhole     
backward #b seams1 as in the position of
  ,dia4 ,,vii1 and which is intended for
 a close-fitting armhole4 ,on the back  
the center of the sleeve is #h from the 
point of the angle of #ace deg41  and   
there the sleeve and the coat connect   
even1 and there the sleeve  length must 
be transferred4    ,in taking the sleeve
 length it makes no difference if the   
length is taken  #a inch higher or      
lower1 but in transferring the measure  
to the sleeve1  the cutter must know    
where to transfer1 no matter where the  
seam may be  located4 ,after the front  
and back are formed the top sleeve may  
be made  wider on either seam1 and the  

under side that much smaller1 and       
notches  cut accordingly4    ,sleeve and
 back are to be connected at #h numbers 
from ,o1 and at the back  base1 but this
 is for normal forms only1 or for the   
normal position of  the arm only4       
,persons whose occupation compels them  
to throw their arms  forward should have
 some surplus cloth at that point even  
if the sleeve  shows too much cloth when
 the arms hang down4 ,surplus length    
allowed  there must not be accounted for
 in the sleeve length4 ,another good    
way1  to provide such sleeves with extra
 length at the back seam1 is to throw   
the front seam of the sleeve1 say #a in4
 forward of the base and at the  hand1  
which will cause the sleeve to extend   
forward easily with the arm4  ,such     
sleeves may also have more width at the 
elbows4 ,persons who most  always reach 
forward with their arms should also have
 a trifle allowance1  say  inch1 at the 
shoulder blade1 and between the back and
 sidepiece1 at  line #i over the front4 

,the bottom of the armhole is marked    
above lines #i and #aa and the front  of
 the armhole is 1 or two seams back of  
the angle of #de deg41 all of  which    
must be considered a close-fitting      
armhole1 but there is no law to  prevent
 the armhole to be cut  to  deeper and  
that much more forward4    ,in ,dia4    
,,vii and ,x the upper armhole nick is  
placed at #fg deg4 and the  upper sleeve
 nick is placed at #fj deg41 and both   
come very close together  as long as the
 lap of sleeve and shoulder is not over 
#b at #fj deg4  ,since ,dia4 ,,vii and  
,x were made1 ,i have found that a right
 angle from the  center of the back     
through #fj deg4 at the armhole gives a 
rather better  connection1 and ,dia4    
,,ii1 which was made later on1 was made 
to show that  way4 ,at the same time    
,dia4 ,,ii was made with the front of   
armhole close to  #de deg4 and with a   
lap of #b at #fj deg4 ,the back nick at 
#h and the front  nick at #aa must be   
considered correct1 but that much must  

be said3 ,if for  any reason the sleeve 
and armhole nicks must be changed1 the  
sleeve will  be the better if it is     
turned down in front and up behind1 than
 if it  turned the other way4    ,now1  
the position of the sleeve and back     
enables the cutter to keep them  in true
 balance4 ,if the shoulder becomes a  of
 an inch broader the  sleeve loses that 
much1 and if the shoulder becomes       
narrower1 the sleeve  must gain that    
much4 ,if the armhole is cut more       
forward the back becomes  broader and   
the sleeve that much shorter behind4 ,if
 the armhole is cut  more backward the  
back becomes narrower and the back      
sleeve seam that  much shorter4    ,the 
stooping form requires the front of the 
neck-hole further down1 and  the top of 
back correspondingly higher1 and for    
illustration1 ,i refer to  ,dia4 ,v1 and
 the dotted line at the neck4 ,if the   
neck changes1 the sleeve  center remains
 at #h4 ,if the neck is thrown further  
down1 the top of the  back must be      

longer1 and the front becomes that much 
shorter1 but the  sides remain4         
,besides1 a stooping form can always    
stand a trifle extra  length at the back
 of the sleeve1 and  to  in4 extra      
length there will  always be found      
useful4    ,the top of the under sleeve 
,i have represented in two different    
ways4 ,the  upper curve is especially   
intended for overcoats1 because the     
overcoat  armhole is cut deeper than the
 under coat armhole4 ,the upward curve  
forms  a gusset1 or a wedge1 which      
allows the arm to be raised on the same 
principle that the lap of the shoulder  
and sleeve on top allows the arm  to be 
moved downward4 ,when the arm is down1  
and in its natural position1  the gusset
 on top is taken up and the one below   
the arm is hidden1 and  will not show at
 all4 ,but if the arm is to be moved    
upward1 it is there  for supply1 and the
 body of the coat is not required to go 
along4    ,the width of the sleeve1 both
 at the elbow and at the cuff1 most     

always  depends on style or notion4 ,a  
long sleeve must be smaller at the cuff 
than a short one1 but a cutter should   
always inquire as to what a  customer   
wants and write the measure down4 ,in   
the absence of a positive  measure1 the 
elbow may be made #h numbers1 a little  
more for quite small  sizes and a little
 less for quite large sizes4 ,for the   
cuff1 #f numbers  may be used for the   
medium sizes1 so that size #ce may be   
made up #aa in4  full4 ,the smallest    
cuff1 say size #bc to #bd1 should not be
 made up less  than #i in41 and the     
largest cuff1 say #dh to #ej1 is large  
enough with #ac  in41 but may be made   
#ad to #ae in4--all changes to be made  
at the elbow  seam4 ,there is a         
variation of perhaps #f in4 in about #be
 sizes1 or about   in4 for every size4  
,if we take #aa in4 for the width of a  
#ce size cuff1  we will be very near    
correct if we add  in4 for every size   
below that  size1 and deduct  in4 for   
every size above that number4    ,dia4  

,,vii represents the armhole1 sleeve and
 collar1 and also represents  the       
respective length of the cloak or cape4 
,the cloak part of ,dia4 ,,vii  shows   
the full  of that garment without any   
seam at the shoulders1 but  that would  
be too full for the present style2 and  
the reduction must be  made sidewise by 
folding the pattern at the center of the
 side1 or at #fg  deg41 but point toward
 the shoulder seam and top of the       
sleeve1 where the  shoulder will open   
toward the neck as the shoulder seam4   
,this shoulder  seam may be called      
artificial because the real reduction is
 made at the  side below4 ,by making the
 fold1 the circle must be re-shaped at  
its  bottom1 but the respective lengths 
remain as in ,dia4 ,,vii4 7,see ,dia4   
,v,i,ia1  which was made later47    ,the
 armhole must be considered a center1 or
 a permanent thing1 and must  not be    
changed for either the stooping1 or     
erect1 or long or short neck4  ,if the  
neck be long1 allow more shoulder strap1

 and if short1 give less1  as in ,dia4  
,,ix4 ,but if for any reason an extra   
loose armhole is desired1  and it is    
thrown forward1 then the front sleeve   
base must be advanced  accordingly--that
 is1 two seams must lap between the     
front of the armhole  and sleeve1 at    
#aa1 as in ,dia4 ,,vii4    ,to sew the  
sleeve in the armhole3 ,clean the front 
of armhole of all  hair cloth1 if any is
 used4 ,between the front and the top   
nicks1 cut  all canvas and padding in1  
in three or four places1 and cut the    
lining  in1 in one place1 about #a in4  
above the front sleeve nick1 and about  
#b in4 deep1 and cover it with a ,v4 ,if
 the padding is thick1 it should  be so 
cut that no two cuts meet each other1 so
 that when the cuts are  stretched      
apart1 that they still form a solid edge
 and not show the  offsets on the       
outside4 ,the front of the armhole      
should then be stretched  under the     
iron1 from point #aa to #fj deg41 and   
care should be taken that  the front of 

armhole is not torn1 especially at the  
nicks4 ,after such  stretching the      
sleeve and the armhole will be nearly   
even1 and the sleeve  will require no   
fulling1 or very little4 ,below the     
front sleeve nick  the armhole is not to
 be stretched1 unless it is done to make
 the coat  larger4 ,on and along the    
back sleeve seam1 up to #de deg4 and    
down to the  under arm cut1 the back of 
the armhole should be secured from      
stretching  by some kind of a stay1 and 
after the scye is solid there1 the      
sleeve  should be held a trifle full1   
which makes a better hanging sleeve than
 if  the sleeve be stretched4 ,no sleeve
 hangs well in front if it be stretched 
above the front sleeve nick3 and the    
same thing is true to the back part4  ,a
 sleeve can be made to hang well in the 
back1 as well as in front1 if  the coat 
maker knows how to work it1 or the      
cutter knows how to cut it1  and be able
 to give positive instructions4         
,whatever the top sleeve is made broader

 than #h numbers is taken off on  the   
under side and the nicks for the sleeve 
seams follow the width of  the top      
sleeve on both front and back4 ,the     
center of the top sleeve is  #h1 which  
will produce a medium top sleeve1 but   
the under sleeve will be  rather full   
and must be reduced1 say  to 1 on the   
front seam1 or a fold  must be laid     
under the arm4    ,by the normal        
position of the armhole1 ,i mean that   
the front of the  armhole is located    
within  in4 or two seams of the angle of
 #de deg41 and  the sleeve on that angle
 as a base1 so that the sleeve and      
armhole always  lap two seams1 one for  
the sleeve and the other for the coat1  
as in ,dia4  ,x and ,,vii4 ,for the     
bottom of the sleeve1 sweep from #h on  
the back1 which  is the center of the   
sleeve4    ,on the same principle that  
the back lining of a coat is put in     
large1 the  sleeve lining ought to be   
put in large around the armhole1        
particularly  the top sleeve lining1    

which should be at least  in4 wider at  
each seam  than the outside1 running out
 to nothing at and below the elbow4     
,speaking  of sleeve lining1 it may be  
said here that fine tailoring may       
require the  top of the sleeve lining to
 be felled all around1 but it is often  
noticed  that even on fine work the top 
part is sewed with a seam and the under 
side felled4 ,now1 if we sew the top    
sleeve lining with a seam we may as     
well sew the under sleeve1 for it makes 
clean work all around4 ,it is done  as  
follows3 ,sew the top sleeve with a seam
 as far as you can1 then turn  the      
sleeve lining right side out1 gather up 
the whole sleeve lining from  the       
bottom1 and reach up through the front  
and sew around the balance4 ,it  is     
rather an awkward job for one not       
accustomed to it1 but it works quite    
easily after a short trial4 ,this would 
not have been mentioned here but  for   
the fact that ,i have seen only one coat
 which had the sleeve lining  sewed in  

that way1 which was not made by me1 and 
that coat was made in  ,indianapolis1   
,indiana4    ,sewing in sleeves is a    
particular job in order to make them    
both alike1  and it will pay a cutter to
 be particular in cutting the notches   
and  requiring the jour4 to place them  
together2 or1 if from any cause1        
notches on one sleeve are changed that  
the other sleeve is changed in the  same
 manner4    ,another fact must be       
observed3 ,by sewing in the undersleeve 
a coat may  be made a good deal larger  
or smaller4 ,if the undersleeve is sewed
 in  full and the lining gives1 a coat  
may be made from one to two sizes       
larger than if the undersleeve is sewed 
in close1 or the fullness laid  in a    
fold4 ,i have made many a three-seamed  
sack coat larger by enlarging  the      
undersleeve and by well stretching the  
coat under the arm1 and then  piecing   
the lining down to the hips4 ,a coat    
which is too small in the  armholes and 
which is cut forward is usually ruined1 

because cutting the  armholes forward   
will be at the expense of the width of  
the breast1 but  if a wedge is put in   
under the arm1 either by stretching the 
bottom of  the armhole or by the help of
 outlets1 then the coat will be large   
enough  in the arms and remain wide     
enough at the chest4    ,in general     
practice it is found that a great many  
coats fit better at  the shoulders1     
without the sleeves in1 and in all such 
cases it may be  presumed that the top  
sleeve is too short1 which causes the   
shoulder to  break somewhere4 ,again a  
short top sleeve at the angles of #de   
and #fj deg4  causes the back sleeve    
seam and the whole back undersleeve to  
appear too  long1 while at the hand the 
sleeve is that much too short4 ,the top 
sleeve  is better if it laps  inch too  
much than  inch too little at #de and   
#fj  deg4    ,between the square and the
 low shoulder there should be a         
difference  made in the sleeve head1    
independent of style4 ,the low shoulder 

requires  a flat sleeve on top of the   
shoulder1 and such armholes should not  
be  stretched much1 while the more      
square shoulder may have a sleeve cut   
with  a fuller head1 and the armhole may
 be stretched more4 ,the width of the   
shoulders varies in style also1 and it  
must be observed that whenever  the     
style of the shoulders is broad the     
sleeve head cannot be as full as  it may
 be made on a coat with the shoulders   
cut narrow4 ,on the present  style of   
female sleeves we can notice that they  
are all cut narrow in the  shoulders1   
and with an extremely full sleeve head4 
,such shoulders would  look horrid1 if  
they were cut very broad1 and with such 
big sleeve heads  running up1 and above 
the shoulders1 several inches4    ,in   
making up1 the jour4 and the cutter must
 work in harmony1 and in all  cases1 the
 jour4 ought to know if the coat is for 
a low or for a square  shoulder1 and he 
ought to be able to work the shoulders  
accordingly4  ,there is no sleeve system

 in existence which is as good as this1 
and ,i  claim that there is no          
probability that anything better will be
 brought  forth4 ,others may be able to 
give it a finer polish1 but the         
principle  will remain4    ,illustration
          ,illustration                 
,,centers ,,of ,,the ,,back ,,and       
,,front4      ,both of these centers    
must be very nearly on straight lines1  
as is  proved by the fact that a vest   
can be fitted with very little curve on 
the center of the back or in front2 and 
in fact1 can be fitted from the  waist  
to the neck with quite straight lines by
 simply cutting a trifle  of a gore     
sidewise1 either at the waist or at the 
neck1 or at both4 ,when  we examine the 
body closely we find that it is not     
round1 but has four  well-defined       
corners1 two in front at the center of  
the breast or at the  nipples1 and two  
in the back at each shoulder blade4 ,if 
any reduction is  required at the waist 
it should be made at these locations1   

for they are  the turning points of the 
body4 ,between these points the normal  
body is  perfectly flat in front and at 
the sides1 though in length the front is
  curved1 while the back is mostly      
hollow2 but for all that1 the normal    
back may be considered flat from blade  
to blade1 as the hollow between is  not 
intended to be shown1 but concealed4 ,if
 we view the body from side to  side1   
the back and front appear to be a sharp 
curve1 as is shown in ,fig4  #b2 but if 
we look at ,fig4 #a we see both back and
 front flat4 ,if a body  were to be     
pressed flat from side to side1 and then
 a cover cut for that  form1 both the   
center of the front and back would      
necessarily be cut on  curved lines1    
because it would be essential to fit    
from front to back1 or  from back to    
front1 just as we may take it4 ,but on  
the human form both  front and back must
 be fitted sidewise from their          
respective bases1 and  as both of the   
bases are on a flat surface it follows  

that both of them  must be fitted1 or   
nearly so1 on straight lines1 at least  
as far down as  the hollow of the waist4
    ,if we take a sheet of stiff paper  
we can fit it over the back and chest1  
and from arm to arm1 all the way down to
 the hollow of the waist in the  back1  
and to the turning points or pit of the 
stomach in front1 with  scarcely any    
break or wrinkle in the paper1 which    
shows that the center  of the back or   
front must be fitted on straight lines1 
and that all  reduction1 as shown in    
,dia4 ,,ii1 or all additions1 as shown  
in ,dia4 ,i1  at the waist must be made 
sidewise or nearly so4 ,the reduction of
 the  back of the waist depends entirely
 upon the position in which we choose   
to place the different parts4 ,in fact1 
it may be claimed that the waist        
reduction of the back is wholly         
imaginary1 because the whole part of the
  body between the arms and waist is a  
flat surface1 and can be fitted with  a 
straight piece of cloth4 ,considering   

that the natural position of a  garment 
when on the body runs from the shoulder 
blade downward and into  the hollow of  
the waist1 it must come in contact with 
the seat below1 and  must be sprung     
outward1 but differs somewhat according 
to the nature of  the garment--all of   
which is clearly shown in the diagrams4 
,all the different shapes of gores or   
wedges in the back of a frock coat  we  
can make1 because we can open or close  
the sidepiece and back1 upward  or      
downward4 ,on a vest with a straight    
back1 we must cut it just so1 and  not  
otherwise2 and a vest back must have a  
trifle spring over the seat in  the     
center of the back4 ,if we cut a vest   
off at the hollow of the waist1  we can 
connect the sides also on straight lines
 and the whole garment  can be cut with 
but one seam in front4 ,in this case1   
however1 we must  consider the          
following3 ,if the square of #bj1 with  
one inch cut out under  the arm1 and    
sewed up1 fits the body1 the back and   

front are not in that  square any       
longer2 but that square spreads on top1 
and contracts below1  about #g deg4     
,but while the square of #bj is thus    
contracted at the waist1 it spreads     
apart on top1 or above line #i1 and here
 a reduction of the waist would be      
visible as a gore above the armscye line
 in the armhole1 but which is cut  away 
and that gore is invisible on a vest4   
,but even a vest on a square  of #bj    
would necessarily have a gore there if  
the armhole would not take  it away1 and
 if the seam is thrown further backward1
 as in a sack coat1  that gore will     
show2 and if the seam is thrown still   
further backward1 as  on a frock coat1  
it will show still more1 because the    
armhole does not  approach it so        
closely4    ,now1 all of this shows that
 two straight edges can be joined       
together  and fitted over the center of 
the back or front by cutting the gores  
sidewise1 and thus compelling the       
straight back and front of a garment  to

 conform with the bend in front and the 
back in length4 ,the center  of the     
front cannot be manipulated like the    
back1 because there are no  seams in the
 forepart passing from one end to the   
other1 except in a  double-breasted coat
 with the lapels cut off4 ,it is true1  
we can cut  small gores under the lapel 
or at the waist to make the forepart    
conform  to the body1 but they must be  
well understood by the cutter as well as
 by  the coat maker4    ,we all know    
that a great many good coats are made   
every day without  any gore whatever in 
the forepart1 but we also know that such
 coats  are pretty well worked1 and the 
front edge drawn in1 which is equal to  
cutting a gore somewhere4 ,a gore under 
the lapel is always vexatious in  the   
hands of an inexperienced journeyman1   
for it is quite easy to throw  the      
shoulder of the garment out of place    
when basted on the canvas4 ,for  this   
reason no gore under the lapel should be
 sewed up until the forepart  is basted 

on the canvas or padding1 after which   
the canvas should be  cut in just the   
shape of the gore1 because a flat canvas
 will spoil all  effects of a gore4 ,on 
a double-breasted coat1 with the lapels 
cut off1 an  exception must be made1    
when the lapels are sewed on before the 
foreparts  are basted on the canvas4    
,within said lapel seam may be obtained 
all  necessary oval form required for a 
forepart1 and all other gores under  the
 lapel are apt to do more harm than     
good4    ,but there is no question about
 the usefulness of a gore under the     
lapel  of a double-breasted sack coat1  
and ,i may say it is indispensable      
there1  for no double-breasted coat can 
be made to conform with the shape of    
the body unless one or two gores are cut
 somewhere4 ,a lapel may be  obtained   
without a gore in it1 but as soon as the
 coat is to be buttoned  up completely1 
there will be surplus cloth between each
 button and  buttonhole1 or the collar  
will be too loose under the chin1 or the

 front  of the waist will be too wide4  
,now all of these faults--loose collar1 
long front1 or large waist--may be      
overcome by simply cutting a gore of    
in4 in the center of the forepart  at   
the waist seam of a frock coat1 and ,i  
deem it necessary to give that  gore    
particular attention4 ,when we take a   
sheet of paper and spread it  over the  
front of the breast1 we can fit both    
fronts from the neck down  to the pit of
 the stomach with that straight paper4  
,from the pit of the  stomach down it   
will stand off from the body1 just as   
the front line of  the angle of #ae deg4
 stands off in ,fig4 ,,ii4 ,now1 to     
bring that surplus  width in front of   
the waist to the body it must be reduced
 by cutting  gores4 ,one large gore in  
the center of the front would be all    
that would  be necessary to bring the   
sheet to the body1 but that would throw 
too  much surplus cloth on the top of   
that gore1 and all on one spot1 and     
wrinkles would form across the front of 

chest1 as in the case with all  coats   
which are cut away in front of the waist
 and forced forward in  order to button 
up4 ,to reduce the front edge only will 
make it a cutaway2  but that will never 
conform a coat to the oval body in      
front4 ,now1 the  more gores we cut the 
more will everything be divided and the 
better it  will fit4 ,so1 in place of   
taking one large piece from the center  
of the  front1 we may cut three small   
gores--one in the center of the front   
and  one in each middle of the foreparts
 under the nipple4 ,the one in the      
center of the front is made in the edge1
 or the seam1 and is simply a  reduction
 of the front edge4 ,the two gores in   
the middle of each forepart  may be     
considered  in4 cut1 and two seams1 or  
in4 in all4 ,these cuts  will balance   
the front and give all the oval shape   
which the chest of a  male requires4    
,on military or clergymen's coats a     
cutter is compelled to make one cut  in 
each middle of the front if he wants a  

good front4 ,on such coats no  gore can 
be cut at the front of the neck4 ,the   
natural run of that gore  is straight   
downward1 starting at the nipple1 or    
wherever the front of  the body turns   
backward toward the front of the thigh4 
,but we cannot cut  them all the way    
down through the skirt1 and so we turn  
it forward at the  waist seam4    ,it   
will be noticed that ,dia4 ,,ii is cut  
without that gore1 but it is  thrown    
into the lapel seam1 and the large gore 
upward is the result4 ,if  ,dia4 ,,ii is
 made with that gore1 then the front    
must receive whatever said  gore takes  
up1 say about  in4 more4    ,military   
and clergymen's coats should be cut     
pretty straight in front and  should    
have a large gore1 say  in41 cut in the 
middle of the forepart1  and starting   
high up2 and the center of the front    
should not be drawn in  with a stay1 for
 this drawing in of the front edge will 
largely return  and show small wrinkles 
at the edge1 particularly on fine       

broadcloth4 ,if  all the surplus cloth  
is cut away and balanced by that gore1  
then nothing  is to be drawn in1 and a  
stay at the edge is simply put on to    
keep it  from stretching1 and to confine
 the canvas closely and permanently to  
the  edge4    ,on single-breasted sack  
coats a small gore may be cut under the 
lapel1  particularly for a longer roll4 
,if a gore is cut for a short roll the  
collar must be quite straight in front1 
or else the lapel will pull  too far    
downward4 ,but for a short roll it is   
just as well to omit it  altogether1 or 
balance it otherwise as follows3 ,after 
the forepart has  been basted to the    
canvas1 cut two or three gores in the   
canvas over  and along the chest4 ,cut  
each gore about  inch wide1 and about #c
 in4  across4 ,around these gores secure
 by good basting the position of coat   
and canvas2 then draw the gores         
together1 and shrink away the fullness  
of the outside1 which may easily be     
done1 then put the stay on even--by     

which means all surplus cloth1 usually  
cut away as gores in the front  of a    
frock coat1 is used up and balanced in a
 sack4 ,drawing in the  canvas without  
cutting it will never make a smooth job4
 ,but all this  requires--that the coat 
be made by one who knows how to make it1
 and is  willing to make it as it ought 
to be made4 ,otherwise it would be best 
to  cut a sack without that gore4    ,on
 a double-breasted sack the gore under  
the lapel should be large and  all      
surplus cloth taken away there1         
particularly so if the coat is to be    
buttoned up to the chin4    ,the        
diagrams show the position of the center
 of the back and front as  well as any  
description can make it1 but the reason 
why ,i have been  describing it so      
closely is1 that ,i desire to show the  
why and wherefore  all seams are        
precisely so and so4 ,neither do ,i     
claim that they must all  be just so1 by
 the least fraction of an inch1 but to  
show a general law  which governs the   

whole4 ,i must refer to still another   
important point4  ,on a sack coat that  
is sewed up all around over the seat1 or
 nearly so1  the side seam and the seam 
in the center of the back may be both   
cut  oval so as to give the form of the 
seat1 particularly on a short sack4  ,on
 a frock coat the back center is thrown 
out below the tack1 and all  roundness  
over the seat is produced by two curved 
lines on the side of  the back and side 
of the front skirts1 all of which is    
shown in the  diagrams4 ,the center of  
the back is open below the tack1 and a  
curved  line there would simply produce 
a curved edge1 but would not give the   
oval form to the garment4 ,if it is     
desired to roll the lapel further  down1
 a gore should be cut somewhere in the  
forepart1 and whatever the  gore and its
 seams take up must be allowed in front1
 or else the coat  will be too small    
there4 ,this gore gives more roundness  
of breast and  consequently a longer    
roll4    ,however1 it should be borne in

 mind that a longer roll of lapel should
  never be made wider on top2 but1 on   
the contrary1 smaller4 ,a large or  long
 roll must be produced by roundness of  
the parts created by gores  from some   
direction1 and not by the width of the  
lapel4 ,for this purpose1  ,i will refer
 to the overcoat in ,dia4 ,x4 ,if that  
overcoat is cut for a  short roll1 the  
small gore will produce a good lapel2   
but if the roll is  to be longer1 the   
width of the lapel must be reduced1 not 
by reducing  the front edge1 but by     
enlarging the gore under the lapel4 ,if 
the lapel  is not reduced in width1 the 
long roll will fall over too far toward 
the  armhole1 and no coat looks well    
with an extremely broad lapel on top4   
,the width of the lapel depends on      
fashion1 but all lapels should be wide  
enough to admit the button-hole and     
leave a reasonable space in front and   
back of it4 ,it looks bad to see the    
button-hole too close to the front      
edge1 or almost touching the seam       

behind4    ,according to the present    
style1 a lapel should be #b in4 wide at 
the  bottom1 #b in4 in the middle1 and  
from #b to #b on top2 but there is  no  
law against making it a trifle wider or 
smaller4 ,but this work has  nothing to 
do with fashion1 and all fashionable    
points must be obtained  from the       
regular reports of fashion4    ,again1  
it will be noticed on the               
single-breasted coat1 as shown in ,dia4 
,i1 that the front of the forepart has a
 gore cut in its center at the  waist   
seam but none above or under the lapel4 
,there being no gore under  the lapel to
 produce the oval form of the chest1 the
 gore must be cut  below1 else the coat 
will swing off from the front of the    
body4 ,the point  of that gore must     
point to the center of the breast1 and  
may run straight  downward or may be    
turned somewhat backward4 ,whenever that
 gore is cut1  the bottom of the        
forepart must be rounded on and along   
the bottom of the  gore1 or its sewing  

up will cause a kink at the waist seam4 
,the front edge of a vest must also be  
explained1 although the different       
diagrams cannot fail to make the correct
 impression4 ,in ,dia4 ,,xiii1 it  will 
be noticed that in the front of the neck
 a small gore has been cut1  which will 
bring the straight front line to the    
oval shape of the body4  ,on a frock    
coat the larger gore toward the waist   
effects the same thing4  ,on a vest the 
under arm cut is made where the gore in 
the frock coat is  cut1 and consequently
 the vest has that gore balanced in the 
side seam4  ,a vest cut close up to the 
neck and without collar would not look  
well  to have a gore cut in front of the
 neck1 and so the deduction is made in  
front by starting the front-edge about  
#c numbers from the point of #ace  deg41
 and on the plumb line1 and meeting the 
front line again at line  #i4 ,on a     
double-breasted vest1 which is intended 
to button all the way  up to the neck1  
and lap over to the other side1 this    

gore must be cut1  not where it is      
marked in ,dia4 ,,xiii1 but in a cut    
forming the lapel1  and which cut should
 be as large as the gore shown in ,dia4 
,,ii4 ,it is  impossible to make a      
double-breasted garment of any kind     
without that  large gore if it is       
intended to fit the form when buttoned  
over4 ,it is  true1 very few vests of   
that kind are made2 but that kind of a  
cut must  be made in all double-breasted
 garments if a well-fitting front is to 
be  obtained when buttoned up4    ,from 
line #i to line #ae the front line is   
the front edge of a  single-breasted    
vest1 receding a trifle at the lower    
button4 ,very few  vests are cut all the
 way up to the neck1 and consequently   
the gore  at the neck1 as in ,dia4      
,,xiii1 is entirely cut away and of no  
account4  ,single-breasted vests that   
button up1 say to about #b in4 above    
line #i1  can be fitted without any     
gore2 but the front edge should be      
worked so  that it will not stretch out 

in making1 particularly around the open 
neck4 ,low-cut vests1 and without       
turn-down collars1 must be fairly well  
drawn in at the open neck1 or the long  
opening will gape more or less4         
,single-breasted as well as             
double-breasted vests with a low opening
  should have half an inch gore cut     
under the collar4 ,the gap may be  taken
 away by drawing the neck in with a     
thread or stay2 but a gore is           
better--the maker should know just what 
to do with it4 ,stretching the  collar  
will never do any good--it will give the
 collar a different shape1  but will    
never bring a gaping front to the body4 
,in producing a double-breasted vest1 #a
 to #a in4 may be added to the  front   
edge1 and the buttons set back that much
 from the place where they  would be if 
the vest were single-breasted4 ,to      
obtain the proper balance  for the      
bottom of the double-breasted vest along
 the buttons1 so that  both sides meet1 
sweep from #c at the plumb base line on 

,dia4 ,,iv through  the bottom of the   
front part of the angle of #ae deg41 or 
as far backward  as the buttons will be 
located4 ,this is a sure sweep4 7,see   
,dia4 ,,iv47    ,besides the gore under 
the collar1 or the drawing in of the    
edge around  the neck of a              
double-breasted vest1 ,i have found in a
 majority of cases  that it is well to  
lengthen the back1 say  inch--which     
gives the front  a better opportunity to
 settle in its place4 ,it is ten times  
better to  have the back of a vest a    
trifle too long than too short4 ,the    
difference  between a vest and a coat   
may well be observed from ,dia4 ,i1 ,,ii
 and ,,iv4 ,it  is useless to describe  
them1 and ,i will conclude this article 
with the  following remarks3    ,a coat 
must fit best behind and at the         
shoulders1 for the front can be         
regulated by moving the buttons1 and for
 this reason a center line in  front is 
not important2 but it is very handy to  
have one for a system1  whenever you    

want a straight front4    ,a vest is    
intended to fit best in front1 and for  
this reason the front  is cut loose at  
the front of the waist4 ,the vest is cut
 off a few inches  below the waist1 and 
a trifle loose cloth will not show2 but 
if a coat  were cut as loose there the  
skirt below would flare in all          
directions4 ,to  regulate the top button
 of a coat and vest1 so that the coat   
will cover  the vest when buttoned1     
place the top button-hole1 say on line  
#i for the  coat1 and  in4 lower for the
 vest4 ,the single-breasted coat has one
 inch  more cloth there1 and the button 
may be set back one inch on the coat1   
and on the vest as near as the          
button-holes when buttoned4 ,the coat   
will  cover the vest about one inch1 and
 this may be used as a guide whenever   
the opening of the coat and vest are    
lowered4    ,to the center of the front 
also belongs the lapel1 and a cutter    
should  know just how much to use for   
that purpose1 and with that object in   

view  examine the front of a clergyman's
 coat as shown in ,dia4 ,i4 ,a coat of  
this kind is1 of course1 without        
turnover or lapel1 but it must be loose1
  though not too wide2 and if it is     
correct that the angle of #ace deg4     
makes the top of the front just large   
enough to sew it up with a seam1        
providing a large gore is cut below at  
the waist1 then it follows that  the    
buttons and front of the button-holes   
must be sewed one seam back of  that    
line1 and enough cloth left in front of 
the base as is required in  front of the
 button-holes and in front of the       
buttons4 ,if the edge is  bound half an 
inch on the button-hole side and one    
inch on the button  side it will answer 
very well2 but if the edge is turned in 
one more seam  must be allowed4 ,the    
space in front of the button-holes      
should not be  less than five-eighths   
inches and may be three-fourths1 and the
 button  side may have one-half an inch 
more for extra lap4    ,now1 ,i will    

refer to ,dia4 ,,iii and ,,xii4 ,observe
 the circle which is drawn  from #fj    
degs4 on the right and through #ace     
degs41 which circle gives as  good a top
 to the lapel as anything that can be   
contrived1 and the whole  front produces
 an extreme cut-away4 ,if the lapel is  
to be run further  down1 all we find    
necessary to do is to allow on the      
bottom of the lapel1  say three-fourths 
inches1 and shape the upper part        
according to notion4  ,if we desire a   
long roll of the lapel1 a gore should be
 cut under the  lapel1 and the gore and 
seam again allowed in front1 so that the
 original  width of the circle and on   
top of the lapels1 is not destroyed4    
,there is  no question but that a larger
 lapel requires a trifle more width     
around  the second or third button-hole1
 but how much must always depend upon   
the  notions of the cutter2 but in all  
cases the lapel of a single-breasted    
coat should be large enough to allow the
 second or third button-hole1  or all1  

to be made without coming in the break  
of the roll1 and a neat  lapel need     
never be larger than for that purpose1  
no matter how low it  is to roll4 ,it is
 here where the touches of a fancy      
cutter can be seen1  and a cutter has   
always a chance to become more          
proficient on that point4  ,even with   
the greatest care he may often obtain a 
lapel that does not  suit him4 ,but the 
cutter alone can not do all4 ,the       
journeyman must have  the taste and the 
ability to make it so that it will not  
only suit the  cutter1 but will also be 
admired by the public4    ,if the front 
of ,dia4 ,i was to be sewed together    
with a seam like the  back1 the front   
line of the angle of #ace degs4 would   
have to be cut  through1 and that would 
fit down to between lines #ae and #ag1  
but below  that point the front would   
have to be reduced #ae degs41 and at the
 same  time where the front requires    
reduction1 the back requires an         
addition1  all of which is shown in     

,dia4 ,i4    ,there is one more         
important point to be considered in     
connection with the  center of front and
 back1 and this is the length4 ,for     
particular forms1  or for odd forms1 it 
may be measured as follows3 ,from the   
top of back  measure straight down      
behind1 and again1 from the top of back 
measure  forward1 striking point #aa on 
the plumb base line1 as near as you can1
  and from that point go straight down  
to a level bottom for both back and     
front4 ,to obtain that level bottom by  
the scale1 make both back and front     
even long from the point of the angle of
 #ace degs4 for a frock coat1  after all
 seams are sewed4    ,for a sack coat1  
make the front about  shorter than the  
back1 for the  reason that the back of a
 sack coat is also  shorter than that of
 a  frock coat1 and which is fully      
illustrated by the lap of the bottom of 
the sidepiece and top of skirt in ,dia4 
,,iii4 ,this calculation holds good  for
 the normal form1 and for the long or   

for the short neck1 but for the         
stooping and for the erect form it ought
 to be measured1 especially in  extreme 
cases4    ,illustration                 
,illustration          ,,the ,,waist    
,,seam ,,and ,,bottom4      ,it cannot  
be supposed that all seams of a coat    
will run according to the  slope of the 
body when a pattern is laid on the flat 
table4 ,the run of  the seams1 when     
covering the crooked form of a man1 must
 always assume  a different position    
when laid out on a flat surface1 which  
is fully  demonstrated in the back slope
 of pants4 ,but a cutter should know how
  much they are out of gear from a      
certain line or base4 ,if a cutter is   
able to cut a frock coat with a waist   
seam running horizontally around  the   
body when the coat is on1 then it will  
be easy for him to produce  a square    
bottom1 which is always in good style1  
and a coat that is too  long or too     
short at one place is always a misfit4  
,on the contrary1 a  horizontal waist   

seam is not in good taste4 ,a stylish   
waist seam is on a  gentle curve upward 
at the side when the coat is upon the   
body4    ,taking the side as a guide1   
the back may be  in4 lower1 and the     
front  may be #a in4 lower4 ,but the    
position of the human form is so        
different in  different individuals that
 we can seldom find two men recording   
the same  position of the waist seam    
when having the same coat on4 ,this     
being the  case1 a cutter should come as
 near to it as possible4 ,the true      
position  of the bottom of a coat1 or of
 the run of the waist seam1 can best be 
found by measuring with a straight-edge 
from the level floor upward4  ,the      
position of that seam1 as shown in ,dia4
 ,,ii1 may be considered as a           
fashionable run1 but there is no law to 
prevent us from curving it more  or     
less4    ,as shown in ,dia4 ,,iii1 it   
will be noticed that  length of the back
 is  absorbed by the lap of the top of  
the skirt1 and bottom of side piece1    

and consequently the front must also be 
shortened that amount1 at the  bottom   
from the side forward1 in order to make 
it square4 ,on the sack  coat the back  
and side piece are in the same position1
 and consequently  the bottom is square4
 ,the shaving off of the front of the   
skirt for  cutaways has nothing to do   
with the foregoing calculation4    ,so  
far ,i have paid attention mostly to    
straight fronts1 because they  must be  
cut just right1 for a straight front    
coat will be spoiled if the  bottom of  
the skirt laps over too much or hangs   
apart4 ,in cutaway coats  no such       
trouble exists1 but it is necessary to  
observe the following  difference       
between a cutaway and a straight front4 
,a straight front is  usually a longer  
coat than a cutaway4 ,a longer coat is  
required to have  a fuller skirt toward 
the bottom1 so that1 in walking1 the    
legs can have  play enough and yet not  
strike the coat with every step2 and the
 longer  the coat the more space is     

required4 ,a cutaway coat is always a   
short  coat1 but a short coat may also  
have a straight front4    ,now1 a short 
coat should have its skirt so arranged  
that it will close in  well to the body 
and not flare in all directions2 and for
 this purpose ,i  refer to ,dia4 ,,iii1 
which front is the proper shape for a   
regular cutaway1  as well as for a dress
 coat4 ,below the gore1 in the center of
 the  forepart1 the upper seam just laps
 over the skirt enough to straighten    
the seam when the gore is sewed up4 ,the
 gore itself would naturally run        
straight downward1 but it is turned at  
the waist seam and run forward  into the
 skirt seam1 which will take away all   
surplus flare at the side  of the skirt4
 ,the connection of the top of the skirt
 and side piece is  the same for all    
coats4 ,all must hang the same 7straight
 down at the  back71 and all changes    
between the full skirt and cutaway are  
made from  the under arm cut1 forward4  
,a very good way to change the full     

skirt of ,dia4 ,,ii to that of a cutaway
  is as follows3 ,cut the skirt pattern 
like ,dia4 ,,ii1 then from the under    
arm cut downward1 fold up the pattern1  
say #a in4 at line #cj4 ,the side  piece
 and skirt remain stationary4 ,the fold 
is brought from the top  of the front1  
and the top of the front of the skirt is
 changed to the  shape of ,dia4 ,,iii4  
,all frock coats should fall straight   
downward from  the seat1 whether long or
 short1 and for this purpose ,i have    
made the  backs the same on both        
cutaways and straight fronts1 both      
leaving perfect  connection between the 
bottom of the side piece and the top of 
the back  skirt1 except ,dia4 ,,iii1    
which is produced for a different       
purpose4    ,all changes in the spring  
toward the bottom of a coat must be made
 by  reducing the lap between the       
forepart and the skirt from the side    
seam  forward4 ,dia4 ,,ii may be        
considered to have enough spring for a  
full  flowing skirt of the present      

style1 while the cutaway may be made    
even  at the front1 but so that the top 
of the skirt and the bottom of the      
forepart run on a gentle curve1 after   
the gore in the forepart is sewed  up4  
,that part of the waist seam of a       
cutaway should be cut like ,dia4 ,,iii1 
that is1 a lap of about  at the gore    
upward1 and even again in front4  ,dia4 
,,iii is made with a gore in the front  
of the waist seam1 but that  gore is    
calculated for a dress coat skirt1 which
 requires the skirt to  close in pretty 
well when the coat is on1 and is good   
for all extreme  cutaways4 ,in the      
production of a dress coat it will again
 be found handy  to have the coat and   
vest on the same base1 because it looks 
horrid to  see such a coat front shorter
 than the vest4    ,the back1 and the   
fold between the back and the front     
skirt1 and all  over and below the side 
piece1 must be the same on all coats1   
that is1  all must hang straight down4  
,but after all1 the back skirt of a     

cutaway  may be cut closer than the     
skirt in ,dia4 ,,ii1 for the reason that
 a short  cutaway cut scant at the      
bottom of the back skirt will not go    
apart as  easily as it would do if cut1 
say #aj in4 longer4    ,dia4 ,,ii gives 
a good representation of the run of the 
bottom1 and the lap  at the waist seam  
shows #a number extra length for the    
curve of the chest4  ,the skirt of any  
double-breasted frock coat should be cut
 so that when  done and the front laps  
over1 both the waist seam and the bottom
 meet4    ,now1 providing the lengths   
are all well calculated1 it becomes     
simple to  make these points meet1 and  
it is done as follows3 ,in front of the 
plumb  base line make the skirt even    
length and shape in all respects like   
,dia4  ,,ii4 ,from the under arm cut    
forward1 sink the forepart waist seam #a
 at  the plumb base line and the same at
 the front edge4 ,at the bottom drop    
the front of the skirt about  to 4 ,the 
bottom of the back is  longer  at the   

side than it is behind1 or at right     
angles with the center line  of the     
center of the back4 ,at line #cj the    
center of the back is thrown  out #a    
number and that much is again reduced at
 the side of the back1 as a  gore4      
,throwing outside #a in4 and cutting #a 
in4 away at the side produces  the oval 
shape over the seat4 ,if the center of  
the back was placed at the  base and the
 sides made even from line #be down1    
then the whole back part  would appear  
flat4    ,the under arm cuts in ,dias4  
,,ii and ,,iv1 are based upon the       
difference of  the diameter of the body 
from side to side1 close under the arm  
and at  the hollow of the waist4 ,the   
diameter of the normal male form may be 
considered to measure one inch less at  
the waist than at the chest1 both       
backward and forward and sidewise1 and  
the circumference of such a body  may be
 computed as being one-ninth less waist 
than the breast on the  whole measure1  
as #cf breast and #cb waist4    ,now1 it

 should be observed that ,dia4 ,,ii and 
,dia4 ,,iv are laid out in  different   
squares1 and that if ,dia4 ,,iv were    
laid out in the same square  as is ,dia4
 ,,ii1 the gore under the arm would be  
#c at the waist1 as it is  on ,dia4     
,,xii4 ,when ,i say above1 that all     
coats and vests have the under  arm cut 
calculated according to the difference  
of the diameter of the  waist from side 
to side1 ,i mean a coat laid out as     
shown in ,dias4 ,,ii and  ,,xii1 and a  
vest as laid out as shown in ,dias4 ,,iv
 and ,,xi4 ,each requires  about one    
inch reduction at the waist and at the  
under arm cut4 ,the coat  is simply that
 much larger over the hips1 as the swing
 of the side piece  from a square of #bj
 to a square of #ag amounts to4    ,the 
square of #ah1 for either a three-seamed
 sack1 or a frock coat1 may  be reduced 
at the waist as shown in ,dia4 ,,ii1 and
 if the diameter of the  waist indicates
 that more space is required at the     
side1 it should be  allowed according to

 that indication4 ,some men are quite   
well filled out  in the sides of the    
body and flat in front1 while others    
require more  waist proportion in front4
 ,the waist proportion on a frock coat  
cannot  be made according to the close  
measure taken over the vest1 but must be
  made according to the measure over a  
well-fitting coat when buttoned up1  and
 to be taken as large and as loose1 yet 
as snug1 as the coat really  requires it
 to be4 ,some may call this an actual   
measure1 and some may  contend that this
 measure cannot be taken correctly1 but1
 be that as it  may1 nevertheless it is 
a measure1 which gives an indication of 
what is  wanted1 and also a truer       
indication than a measure taken tightly 
over  the waist4 ,by the waist measure1 
,i mean the measure at the hollow of the
  waist and not the waist seam of a     
frock coat4 ,the hollow of the waist  is
 a permanent point on every human body1 
but the waist seam changes  according to
 style or notion2 and the width of that 

seam should come  pretty near to the    
actual measure taken over the coat when 
buttoned up4    ,in order to observe the
 difference of the location of waist    
proportion1  let us consider ,dia4 ,i1  
which is laid out in the same position  
as a vest1  although the square is      
larger4 ,here we find a reduction of  at
 the  hollow of the back1 or between the
 sidepiece and back2 and on line #bj we 
find a spring of  at the waist seam     
between the front and sidepiece4    ,the
 normal form requires a reduction of #a 
in4 at the under arm cut1 on  a vest1   
and about  in front1 which  is again    
thrown out behind as a  spring over the 
seat2 and which is not waist reduction  
or waist addition1  but must be         
considered as something to conform with 
the turn of the body  from the pit of   
the stomach downward and from the hollow
 of the waist in  the back downward4    
,this cut under the arm on a square of  
#bj is a natural  gore for a vest1 while
 for a coat the same spot requires a    

spring1 which  is also a natural one for
 a coat1 and both are in their place    
because the  nature of the garment      
requires it1 not the body itself4 ,there
 are men  with quite small and tapering 
waists1 and for such the underarm cut   
must  be made larger1 while others with 
very full waists spread sidewise and    
require the under arm cut smaller--or no
 cut at all but a spring4    ,now1 in   
making our calculation for the waist    
proportion according to  diameter of the
 body1 the following must be observed3  
,if the full  diameter of the waist1    
from side to side1 is #a in4 less than  
that of the  chest from side to side and
 under the arm1 it will throw  inch     
taper  on each side2 but the diameter   
covers the double body1 and the double  
garment1 or one front and one back on   
each side1 consequently each half  back 
and each half front requires a taper1 or
 a reduction of  inch1  and for this    
reason the vest1 as a garment cut close 
to the body1 has a  reduction of #a in4 

under the arm1 and which #a in4 is to be
 taken away on  the forepart as being   
the best shape4    ,on a vest1 ,i find  
that all waist allowances may be divided
 between the  side and front with very  
satisfactory results1 but extremes      
should have  a trifle more in front than
 at the side4 ,on a coat1 the most of   
waist  allowances should be at the side1
 because surplus cloth at the front of a
  coat will produce too much skirt      
below1 while on a vest it will not show1
  because the vest is cut off or ends a 
few inches below the waist4    ,the cut 
between the sidepiece and back of a     
frock coat should never  be changed for 
waist proportion4 ,this cut is not made 
or calculated  according to waist       
proportion1 but is made for convenient  
cutting4  ,however1 this must be        
observed3 ,short men require the waist  
higher up  than the scale produces1 and 
in consequence the hollow1 or the turn  
of  the sidepiece1 should be where the  
hollow of the waist actually is1 and    

not at line #ag1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,ii4
 ,therefore just the contrary must be   
observed on tall and slender persons4 ,i
 find that the difference of the  length
 of the waist between short and tall    
persons is about this3 ,if the  style   
allows the waist seam to be located at  
line #bj for the normal form1  then a   
short person may have that seam at #ai  
and a tall one at #ba1 while  the hollow
 of the waist is #b higher1 all of which
 can be measured on  each customer4     
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,large ,,waists ,,and ,,the ,,normal   
,,form4      ,this article includes all 
sizes1 from the smallest child to the   
largest  man1 and is to be applied on   
all forms whose whole waist measure is  
more  than one-ninth part less than     
breast4 ,when a child is born its waist 
is  larger than its breast4 ,the normal 
growth of the waist is a constant       
reduction of its relative proportion to 
the breast1 until we may find1 at  the  
age of #bj1 a waist of about four inches

 less than breast4 ,after that  age the 
waist has a tendency to become larger   
again1 more or less1 until  we again    
find some individuals with the same     
waist proportion as when  they were     
born4    ,now1 is not a child with its  
waist larger than its breast1 of normal 
proportion8 ,is not a man who measures  
#dh breast and #ej waist1 of normal     
proportion8 ,the present conception of a
 normal form1 as being four inches  less
 waist than breast1 is wrong4 ,this     
proportion is found in the medium       
sizes1 as #cf breast and #cb waist but  
it can be called a normal form  for that
 size only4 ,we may find #dd breast and 
#dj waist1 but they are  exceptions1    
though ,i have found one #dc breast and 
#cg waist4 ,the child of  #bd breast and
 #bj waist is not to be found2          
consequently the normality of  the      
proportion of four inches less waist    
than breast is a myth as far as  cutting
 garments is concerned1 and cutters must
 make calculations for  each individual 

customer2 or1 as in cutting for ready   
made clothing1 the  different sizes must
 be classified according to their normal
 conditions4    ,but taking #cf breast  
and #cb waist as normal for that size1  
we find also  that it means a waist     
which is one-ninth part less than the   
breast1 and  if we make a diagram to fit
 that size and enlarge it to size #ed1  
it will  fit a waist one-ninth less than
 that breast1 or a waist of #dh2 but    
such  forms are not in existence as far 
as ,i know4 ,if we diminish it to breast
  size #bg1 it will fit a waist of #bd1 
which may come pretty near to a great   
many boys of that size2 but the great   
majority of that size have fuller       
waists1 and the younger the child is the
 larger its waist proportion will  be   
found to be4    ,but before we proceed  
further1 remember that in trying to fit 
coats in  the back according to the     
waist proportion1 more garments are     
spoiled  than made better2 for1 in the  
first place1 the smallness of the back  

part  of a coat does not depend on waist
 proportion at all1 as shown elsewhere4 
,the hollow of the waist behind is not  
to be fitted at all1 but passed  over2  
and its proportion is of no account     
until it is almost as large as  the     
breast4 ,breast #dj and waist #cg       
requires no addition to the waist4      
,breast #db and waist #de 7with seat    
#de7 ,i find ,i can fit very well by    
omitting the gore under the arm1 and in 
place of the gore lapping the  side     
piece and front  in4 at the waist seam1 
and adding #a in front1  which will     
allow #c in4 extra width for a waist    
that is #f in4 out of  proportion on the
 whole4 ,and it is further accounted for
 as follows3 ,the  #a in4 omitted gore  
and the  lap makes #a1 and the #a in    
front make #c in4  in all1 or only      
one-half of the actual measure1 which   
may appear as too  small1 but we must   
consider that the hollow of the waist   
for the normal  form is not to be fitted
 but passed over1 and a larger waist    

will fill it  out better1 that is all4  
,to obtain a correct waist proportion on
 a coat  is quite a trick1 and cannot be
 learned from the books2 and a cutter   
must  consider each customer well4 ,a   
correct waist measure may be taken over 
a  well fitting coat when buttoned up1  
and the coat made precisely like that   
measure--all seams and lap for buttons  
and button holes to be taken into       
consideration4    ,one thing should be  
observed3 ,the front angle of #ae deg4  
is #e numbers  wide at line #bj1 where  
the waist seam is located4 ,but on a    
large form the  waist is higher up1 say 
at line #ah1 and the width of the front 
angle 7as  #e at #bj7 must be           
re-established at1 say #ah2 that is1 we 
must go outside  of the front line of   
#ae deg4 ,the same thing ought to be    
done at the side1  and the lap of  made 
at the waist seam and not at line #bj4  
,line #ag is  established for the hollow
 of the waist1 and line #ae as the      
turning point  of the body in front4    

,line #bj as indicated is for the top of
 the hips1  and the waist seam for a    
frock coat regardless of style or       
fashion4    ,but on corpulent men1 these
 lines stand too far down1 and on slim  
persons  they are too far up2           
consequently1 these lengths must be     
measured1 and  as the waist seam runs at
 right angles with the back1 as on a    
square of  #ag1 and as a point for line 
#bj1 take the outside of the elbow1 and 
for  line #ag take the inside of the    
elbow4 ,the elbows are a sure guide1 for
  they always fit into the hollow of the
 waist1 and no man can strike both  of  
his hip bones with both of his elbows at
 the same time4 ,as a general  rule1 ,i 
claim that the angle of #ace deg4 will  
cover every form of large  waists1      
providing the sides and the shoulders   
fit4 ,every cutter can try  this by     
cutting the double angle of #ace deg41  
neck and all1 and put it on  as a cape  
by closing it in front4 ,to imitate the 
large waist simply lift  the front edge 

forward--and notice the result4 ,or it  
may also be tried on  a corpulent form1 
when it will be found that the angle of 
#ace deg4 will  cover it4 ,a piece of   
pattern paper will do for that purpose1 
or even a  piece of muslin4 ,but coats  
are not made from sheet iron1 and if    
otherwise  well balanced can stand a    
great deal of abuse at some places4     
,therefore1  no cutter will fail if he  
divides the extra waist proportion      
intended to  be allowed into three equal
 parts and place two parts at the side  
and one  part in front1 starting all at 
the armscye lines4    ,on coats all     
allowances should be scant in front1    
because plenty  allowance there would   
throw too much skirt in front4 ,a vest  
is cut off a  few inches below the turn 
of the body a trifle more will not show1
 and  may be balanced again by cutting a
 gore in the middle of the forepart     
below the pockets1 particularly if the  
abdomen turns very abruptly4 ,a  vest is
 better  in4 too large in the front of  

the waist than that much  too small4    
,on a frock coat1 extra waist proportion
 can be given by dividing it all  over  
the front and side of the forepart2 but 
on a three-seamed sack the  side seam is
 too far behind to be of much help4 ,and
 it is best to enlarge  the square of   
#ah numbers to the amount of waist      
proportion required1 and  reduce it     
again by a cut under the arm upward1 as 
a five-seamed1 for both  under and      
overcoats4    ,breast #dh and waist #ej 
can be fitted by enlarging the square   
from #a to  #a in4--#a in4 often yields 
excellent results4 ,but by enlarging the
 square  for any purpose1 we ought to   
consider this3 ,if we enlarge the square
 #a  in41 point #ac1 as on a sack1 and  
on line #i in front will sink down  of  
the #a in41 which will make the back    
that much shorter on line #aa4 ,this  is
 very little1 but it ought to be known  
to the cutter that a short back  is     
always better for a large waisted form  
than a long back4 7,see ,dia4 ,x47      

,bear in mind that an under coat for a  
large waisted form is about the  same   
thing as an overcoat that fits the      
normal form4    ,there is always a class
 of men found who complain that they    
seldom have  a coat large enough in the 
armholes1 unless the coat is too large  
all  over4 ,such persons are usually    
well filled up at the side of waist and 
hips1 and require their coats large     
there1 and if this is not done1 the     
sewed up back cannot give1 and          
consequently the coat must give in      
front1  and the whole of it is drawn    
backward1 taking the armhole with it1   
and  striking the front of the arm1     
while the back of the armhole shows too 
much cloth4 ,a coat which swings loose  
at the back and around the side of  the 
waist will never cut the front of the   
arm2 it may be small all around  the    
armhole1 but it will only feel close and
 will not saw on one spot  only4        
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,stooping ,,forms4    7,,see ,,dia4    

,,ix47      ,stooping forms have so many
 variations that it is impossible to    
describe  them all4 ,the term 8stooping0
 is generally applied to persons with   
prominent shoulder blades4 ,we find them
 combined with long and short  necks1   
large and small waists1 hollow or flat  
in the back and front of  the waist1 and
 arms thrown backward or forward4 ,all  
of these conditions  must be observed   
and separately calculated1 and a cutter 
will be kept  constantly busy and on the
 watch4 ,it is only where a cutter is   
thoroughly  acquainted with the workings
 of this system of bases that he will be
 able  to fit all forms as near as he is
 expected to do4 ,all kinds of measures 
have been devised1 and all sorts of     
imaginary bases have been adopted  to   
fit the forms of a man2 but where one   
cutter succeeds with a certain          
appliance1 others utterly fail4 ,the    
fact is1 even if all measures should    
give the correct amount1 the body itself
 could not be fitted except on a  few   

specified points1 and all defects should
 be covered up in place of  imitating   
them4 ,to fit the stooping form in all  
its details would result  in a misfit   
from the start1 particularly when the   
back of the waist is  very hollow4      
,if we take a coat that fits a normal   
form1 and put it on a stooping  form of 
the same size1 and button it under the  
chin1 the neck will fit1  but will stick
 out behind at the waist and spread     
apart in front4 ,a  reasonable way of   
altering it is to reduce the back seam  
of the side  piece from the blade down1 
which will produce more curve over the  
blade  and give more length to the back2
 and what is taken off behind at the    
waist is allowed in front4 ,it is       
generally taken for granted that a      
stooping form requires his armholes more
 forward1 but this is not always  the   
case1 for some of them throw their arms 
backward2 and we find the  contrary in a
 great many erect forms1 who throw their
 arms forward--all of  which the cutter 

must observe4    ,now1 suppose we permit
 the coat to be loose under the chin1   
and button  one or two lower buttons4   
,in this case we shall find that the    
coat will  fit in the back of the waist1
 but at the neck it will be too loose   
and  will gape all around the front4 ,if
 we gather the wrinkles together in     
front we can make the breast fit the    
form1 although the top of the back  may 
be too short4 ,so we can make our       
alteration on the spot again1 always    
providing1 however1 that we are altering
 the pattern only1 by starting at  the  
front sleeve nick and laying a fold     
forward to the amount of whatever  the  
fullness of the coat may indicate4 ,this
 again will alter the pattern  from that
 direction4 ,it makes the front shorter 
in place of making the  back longer4    
,this last is the most reasonable way to
 alter a coat for the  stooping form1   
for it must be remembered that in both  
erect and stooping  forms the change    
proceeds from front to back1 and at the 

waist4    ,the backbone is solid1       
although it bends1 but it never becomes 
longer  or shorter on the same form4 ,if
 the body throws itself forward into a  
stooping position1 the back bends and   
the front contracts at the pit of  the  
stomach4 ,if the body throws itself     
upward in a more erect position1  the   
back bends the other way and the front  
expands at the pit of the  stomach4 ,the
 front only expands or contracts at the 
pit of the stomach4  ,the backbone must 
be considered a hinge on which the whole
 body swings1  just like a door on its  
hinges2 and all alteration may be made  
from that  point1 either by stretching  
some parts or by folding up the pattern 
before the garment is cut4    ,if a     
stooping form throws his arms forward1  
then the armholes must be  further      
forward of the front sleeve base4 ,but  
in that case the front  sleeve base must
 be just as much advanced4 ,and again3  
,whatever the  front of the armhole has 
been advanced must be added to the back 

of the  armhole1 for a stooping form has
 no larger arm than an erect form4 ,the 
armhole must be moved forward1 but made 
no larger4    ,this constant backward   
and forward movement of the neck1 waist1
 and  shoulders is one of the greatest  
studies any cutter will be obliged to   
go through1 as it is1 in fact1 the only 
variation to be found in the  normal    
form which cannot be measured1 but must 
be taken by the trained  eye of the     
cutter1 and his practical knowledge of  
how to alter4 ,actual  measurement1 by  
whatever measure or name it may be      
called1 is a delusion1  for all         
so-called long or short measures around 
the shoulders1 neck  and arms must be   
taken close over a body which we do not 
intend to fit  as snugly as the measure 
itself4 ,as a rule1 said measures are   
seldom  applied1 or transferred to a    
flat pattern on the same line as they   
have  been taken over the form itself4  
,for illustration1 we will examine the  
so-called upper shoulder measure1  from 

the top of the center of the back to    
around under the arm and back  again to 
the place of beginning4 ,said measure is
 always to be taken  close1 because any 
slack would again cause great variation 
in the hands  of different cutters4 ,by 
taking it close the tape will not strike
 the  body of the coat under the arm at 
all1 because the armhole is lower  than 
the body itself1 but the tape pulls the 
sleeve up and passes above  the armhole4
 ,if cutters will go to the trouble and 
make a line on their  patterns over     
which they transfer that measure1 and   
then draw stitches  in1 they will find  
that when the coat is on the body they  
cannot even  follow said stitches with  
the tape line1 unless it is fastened    
every few  inches4 ,if that be the case1
 what good is the measure8 ,if that     
measure  is to do a cutter any good he  
must be able to follow a certain trail  
on  the pattern1 as he does on the coat 
when on the body1 but that cannot be    
done4 ,there is no one so blind as he   

who does not want to see4    ,if the pit
 of the stomach contracts or expands1   
that is no proof that  the shoulder and 
arms also draw out of their normal      
position4 ,if the  breast measure be    
taken correctly1 as directed in this    
work1 passing  over the point of the    
shoulder blades1 then the round         
shoulders of a  stooping form1 and the  
flat ones of an erect form are included 
within  the measure4 ,consequently      
nothing can be added to the blade for a 
round  back nor taken away for a flat   
back--the change must be above or below1
  notwithstanding the appearance of     
,dia4 ,,ii ,b4 ,the round back requires 
his  armhole more forward1 and what is  
taken out in front of the armhole is    
again allowed on the back1 making the   
back broader4 ,if the back of the       
armhole is not supplied with what is    
taken out in front1 the under and  back 
sleeve will drag and pull backward4     
,because the stooping form may  throw   
his arm forward1 is no indication that  

his arms becomes larger1 but  it        
demonstrates that his armhole must be   
located more forward4    ,but again3    
,because a man is stooping is no        
indication that his back  must be round4
 ,a man may throw his neck downward in  
front1 but may also  throw his arms     
backward1 and stand very erect in the   
waist4 ,such a form  requires his neck  
hole downward in front but does not     
require his armhole  forward4 ,the front
 and back of the armhole may be located 
as for the  normal form1 or even for the
 erect form4    ,further3 ,because a man
 is classed among the erect forms is no 
proof that  his back must be flat4 ,we  
find plenty of so-called erect forms who
 throw  their arms forward1 and their   
backs become very straight in length4   
,the terms normal1 stooping and erect   
are very indefinite1 and ,i do  not     
believe that any man is1 or ever will be
 able to describe a stooping  form alone
 in all its variations and combinations4
 ,all that can be done  is to point out 

certain forms2 and the cutter who starts
 out on his  cutting tour through life  
must always be on his guard1 and study  
his  customers1 and imprint their forms 
upon his own brain4    ,now1 as the     
breast measure contains the full size of
 a round as well as a  flat shoulder    
blade1 we must come to the following    
conclusion3 ,that the  stooping form    
requires simply more length in the back1
 or less length  over the front1 and    
years of experience teaches me that  to 
extra  length over the blade is enough  
for the extreme stooping form1 but such 
a form requires its length in the center
 of the back1 or from the blade  upward2
 and whatever the back is made longer on
 top must be shortened at  the front1 as
 is shown in ,dia4 ,,ix1 which          
illustrates the long as well as  the    
short neck1 and also the stooping form4 
,but there is no law to prevent a cutter
 from adopting a middle way1 by  leaving
 the forepart as it is and to make the  
whole back1 say  longer  and reducing   

that length again somewhere at the      
armhole1 because a back  that becomes   
longer behind requires no extra length  
at the side4 ,this  alteration is even  
to altering the back as for a long neck1
 leaving the  front as it is for the    
normal form4 ,if a coat fit at the neck 
but swings  off at the waist1 reduce the
 back of the side piece1 say  in41 at   
the  waist and stretch it downward to   
make it again long enough--all of which 
is required to lengthen the back  in4   
,but if the stooping form should        
require his armhole further forward1  is
 enough for the extreme4 ,point #h      
remains the center for the back sleeve1 
all extra length being allowed on  top4 
,in the conclusion of this article1 ,i  
will say that ,i have given different   
views as to the making of alterations1  
because while cutting we can alter  as  
we please2 but if a garment must be     
altered after it is made1 it must  be   
altered as best we can1 and if a garment
 is worth altering at all it  is worth  

altering right4 ,i will here again point
 to the fact that coats  for stooping   
forms usually have a tendency to swing  
off at the back of  the waist1 and such 
garments can most always be brought to  
the body by  giving the center of the   
back and the back seam of the side piece
 a good  stretching under the smoothing 
iron from a point over the shoulder     
blade  downward4    ,all alterations    
between the stooping and the erect forms
 can be better  comprehended if we      
consider a well-fitting coat on a normal
 form as  follows3 ,consider the coat   
cut through from each side to each back1
 and  to each front1 and consider the   
sides as on hinges1 and then consider   
what the result would be if the form    
imitates the so-called erect or         
stooping positions4 ,in that case the   
cuts across the hollow of the waist     
would open in front or back1 as the case
 may be1 and contract at the  opposite4 
,the result of the backward and forward 
moving of the body  must be imitated by 

contracting or folding the pattern1 just
 as a coat  will full up in the back    
when the body becomes erect4 ,under the 
head of  stooping forms also belongs the
 so-called 8hunchback10 and to fit such 
forms will always be a hard job4    ,to 
fit them is not the right term in my    
opinion4 ,they do not want to be        
fitted1 for to fit them would just show 
their deformity1 which should be  hidden
 by his coat1 at least in the back of   
the waist4 ,such forms are  often very  
erect ones1 and most of them throw their
 arms and shoulders  up1 making them    
extra square1 and may be at right angles
 with the side of  the neck4 ,if the    
armhole is left1 as for the normal form1
 as it should  be1 then the angle of    
#ace deg4 must have a gore cut at the   
neck1 and in  the shoulder seam1 of at  
least #a in41 and the top of the back   
placed say  #a in4 lower1 and the front 
of the neck #a in4 lower1 while the side
 of the  neck may be widened  in4 only4 
,this will not disturb the armhole and  

sleeve4 ,the top of back and the top of 
front must be shortened1 because  there 
is no slope of the neck2 the cloth runs 
straight over1 and for this  reason the 
side of the neck is to be cut out more1 
while there is no  change whatever at   
the armhole4    ,now1 while the upper   
part of the back must be made shorter1  
that part  of the back which passes over
 the shoulder blades and which is in    
this  case extremely large1 must be made
 longer1 as far over as the enlarged    
shoulder blade requires it4 ,but at the 
armhole the back requires the  normal   
length only4 ,on a frock coat such      
length may be given in the back1  and   
that length again reduced by a larger   
gore between the side piece  and the    
back4 ,but on a sack coat this cannot be
 done1 as no seam runs  over to that    
point1 and in consequence the extra     
length must be put in  otherwise1 and ,i
 will here give the best way to do it1  
but it may not be  the shortest way4    
,if the back requires say #a in4 extra  

length over the haunch1 cut the  whole  
back  longer in the portion of the back 
armhole1 and reduce  at  the shoulder   
seam toward the armhole again1 which    
will leave the balance  of the armhole  
as it was before4 ,next1 stretch the    
center of the back   over and along the 
shoulder blade1 and over toward the arm1
 say about #d  to #e in4 each way1 or as
 far over as the enlarged shoulder blade
 requires  it4    ,in the article on    
8,center of ,back and ,front10 it is    
shown why the center  of the back can be
 fitted on straight lines1 and this is  
true of the back  of a hunchback1 though
 a modification may be made for such a  
form and  some taken off above or below 
the hunch1 or something be thrown out   
over  the center behind4 ,but it is not 
width1 that such a coat wants2 it is    
length over the blade1 not over and     
clear across to the armhole1 but only   
as far over as the deformation requires4
 ,in this respect let me allude  to an  
article and diagram in 8,,the ,,american

 ,,tailor ,,and ,,cutter0 of ,august1   
#ahij1 pages #cd and #ce3        8,that 
pivot1 from the armhole across to the   
center of back1      which must be done 
on straight lines1 can not work1 unless 
the      body of a man is first pressed 
flat from side to side1 leaving      the
 center of front and the center of back 
on a sharp edge1      or what would be  
the same illustration3 on a form cut    
from a      one-half inch board1 the    
sides being flat4 ,in this case only1   
the form can be fitted from back to     
front1 and on curved back      and front
 centers4 ,but as long as we must fit   
men having the      present form the    
back must be fitted from back to side   
and on      straight lines at the center
 of back4 ,the opening of the lines     
over the back1 as shown in that         
illustration1 is too straight1      it  
will make the back either too long at   
the center1 or too      short at the    
middle of the back1 and may fall smooth 
over the      middle of the back1 but   

will draw at the center and at the      
armhole40      ,the above should receive
 the attention of every cutter1 as the  
term  8,hunchback0 is simply a          
combination of extremely stooping and   
extremely  erect forms4    ,to sum up   
the whole stooping form3 ,the back of   
such a form does not  become longer1 but
 it bends and produces a larger curve   
over the blade1  and consequently the   
coat back will go with the body and     
requires no  extra length4 ,but the     
front contracts either all over the     
chest or at the  pit of the stomach1 and
 the coat must be contracted or         
shortened there1  but as there is no    
seam there we must fall on to the next  
best place  where we can find a seam1   
and here we find the shoulder seam in   
which the  surplus length of the        
forepart may be taken up4 ,now1 if we   
use ,dia4 ,,ii or  ,dia4 ,,viii as a    
model1 we simply lap the shoulders      
toward the blade1 the  same as for the  
normal form1 but omit the lap toward the

 neck4 ,this is  the most reasonable way
 of altering for the stooping form4     
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,erect ,,forms4    7,,see ,,dia4       
,v,i,i,ia47      ,although ,i have said 
that the backbone never gets longer or  
shorter in  the same form1 we find that 
whenever a body assumes the position of 
an  over-erect form the direct distance 
from the blade to the seat becomes      
shorter1 and the hollow of the waist    
becomes deeper and consequently  longer4
 ,this can be noticed by anyone who will
 take the trouble to make  the          
experiment4 ,take any form with a       
well-fitting coat and let him assume    
the stooping position1 and the          
alteration for it may be found correct  
as  described in the preceding article4 
,now let the same form throw himself  in
 an over-erect position1 and see the    
result4 ,as the front of the pit of  the
 stomach opens and becomes longer1 it   
will pull the front of the coat  upward4
 ,if we cut the waist through in front  

and sidewise1 this cut will  fall apart 
in front and at the side1 and the back  
will set smoothly4    ,but we cannot cut
 the coat through1 and so we must resort
 to artificial  means1 as follows3      
,while the body thus expands in front1  
and the coat  cannot follow suit unless 
cut through1 the back of the coat will  
contract1 starting at the side and at   
the most hollow part of the waist1  and 
running backward4 ,if we take a few pins
 and fasten up that surplus  cloth at   
the hollow of the back1 starting with   
nothing at the sides1 we  can readily   
ascertain the amount of alteration      
required1 and fold up our  pattern      
accordingly4    ,on a frock coat said   
fold is over the entire sidepiece1 not  
at the waist  seam1 but at the most     
hollow part1 or at and above line #ag4  
,if it were  lower it could be taken out
 in the waist seam4 ,this fold1 if laid 
in the  pattern1 will produce a sharp   
turn of the back part of the sidepiece  
and  must be straightened by giving more

 width along that kink4 ,the same is to 
be done on a sack4 ,if the sack is a    
three-seamed one1 the pattern must be   
cut through under the arm upward1 the   
fold laid across the hollow of the      
waist1 and seams allowed again in the   
opening1 which may be an inch at  the   
armhole2 but what is not used for seams 
should not be cut away1 but  used as an 
outlet1 which will sometimes be found   
quite handy4 ,see ,dia4  ,v,i,i,ia4     
,it is true1 we can alter such a coat by
 reducing it somewhere at and  behind   
and below the arm1 and by cutting the   
armhole forward1 so that the  back of   
the waist can fall backward2 but it will
 take all the life out of  a fit in the 
back1 and make the breast too small4    
,the only remedy is an  outlet under the
 arm on a frock coat1 or in the center  
of the back1 or  in the side seam on a  
sack4 ,by this operation it will be seen
 that the  erect form cannot be fitted  
by carving out the waist behind1 but    
must be  done by contracting the length1

 and really giving more width4 ,one-half
 to  five-eighths inches fold may be set
 down as the average1 but the exact     
amount cannot be found by measuring4    
,all this depends upon the judgment  of 
the cutter4 ,one-half to one-fourth     
inch1 one way or the other1 will  not   
spoil a coat if otherwise well-balanced4
    ,stretching certain parts will      
accomplish a great deal of good1 but all
  stretching should be clearly marked by
 nicks1 for a journeyman cannot  always 
be expected to know just where the      
stretching is required4 ,thus1  if we   
take a regular frock coat pattern1 and  
stretch the sidepiece half  an inch     
downward on the front and at the hollow 
of the waist1 that is  equal to         
contracting the sidepiece the same      
distance at the back seam2  and the     
erect form is imitated4    ,the erect   
form requires the coat short at the     
hollow of the waist1 but  the stooping  
form requires the coat longer over the  
shoulder blade4  ,erect forms may be    

fitted by simply taking1 say one half   
inch1 from the  curve of the sidepiece1 
starting at the hollow of the waist1 as 
shown  on ,dia4 ,,ii ,b1 and the        
contrary may be applied to stooping     
forms4 ,to fit  the back of the waist   
for either the erect or for the stooping
 form1 and  taking ,dia4 ,,ii as a      
model1 we must in some way give more    
spring for the  erect form1 and less for
 the stooping form4 ,stretching the     
bottom of  the sidepiece is equal to    
giving more spring on either side1 and  
it is  better1 because the extra width  
so obtained will divide better all over 
the hip4 ,but it would not do to adopt  
the contrary plan for the stooping      
form1 and shrink the bottom of the      
sidepiece4 ,the measure of the waist    
being the same1 the back part of the    
waist requires a reduction1 but  which  
reduction on the back must be allowed in
 front4 ,the reduction of  the back part
 for the stooping form is best made by  
reducing1 say one  half inch1 on the    

sidepiece and on the under arm gore1 and
 by stretching  the back sidepiece seam 
about three eighths downward on starting
 at line  #aa1 which operation will     
leave the whole gore between the back   
and the  sidepiece undisturbed4    ,i   
have seen a great many tailors shrinking
 the sidepiece in its center  downward1 
but shrinking a straight piece will     
always come back to its  original shape4
 ,to improve the shape of the sidepiece 
under the iron must  be done by         
stretching its edges downward2 the front
 seam for the erect  and the back seam  
for the stooping form4 ,after a coat is 
made up1 and  it should prove short over
 the blade by hanging loose at the back1
 the  back may be made longer over the  
blade by stretching the front seam of   
the side piece upward1 starting at the  
hollow of the waist4 ,i say it may  be  
so made longer1 but the best way to     
treat such a back1 is to give the  whole
 back and the back part of the side seam
 a good stretch downward1  over the     

blade1 all of which holds good on a sack
 coat4    ,many coats hang better after 
three months wear1 simply because some  
parts  have stretched1 and can now      
conform to the shape of the body4 ,it is
  always better to have a coat back a   
trifle short rather than too long4 ,a   
short back can easily be stretched one  
half to five-eighths of an inch  over   
the blade1 say #c to #d inches sidewise 
from the center of the back1  for which 
reason all back lining should be put in 
in ample quantity1 both  in length and  
width and on the bias4 ,if1 however1 the
 lining is straight  and not longer than
 the outside1 then the lining must be   
opened and  pieced1 for it cannot be    
stretched4    ,a skeleton coat of woolen
 material will fit almost any form1 for 
it will  stretch wherever a strain may  
exist2 for this reason all linings      
should  be plenty large around the arm  
and back1 and the whole coat should be  
made soft so that it will give4 ,this   
includes even the basting of the        

linings on the seams1 all of which      
should be made with large and loose     
back stitches4    ,in connection with   
this article and that on the 8,stooping 
,forms10 let us  again compare the angle
 of #ae deg4 ,if a cutter will go to the
 expense  and trouble to cut and make   
for himself a skeleton coat1 cut over   
,dia4  ,,iii1 omitting all seams        
sidewise1 and for this reason reducing  
the square  of #ah to #ag1 and using    
nothing in front and outside of the     
angle of #ae  deg41 in fact cutting     
nothing out except the armholes and the 
shoulder  seams1 and using some stiff   
material1 such as heavy vest padding or 
,french canvas1 he will be able to form 
for himself a correct idea of the       
workings of the angle of #ae deg42 and  
it will repay him1 for he may save  many
 subsequent alterations4 ,and           
alterations cost considerable money1    
besides a great deal of annoyance       
between employer1 cutter and customer4  
,in cutting it1 the back should be cut  

pretty short1 say #ac on line #i in     
front1 or still shorter1 in order to    
assure a smooth back4 ,when such a      
skeleton is on the body it will be      
observed that the center of the back  is
 on a plumb line from the shoulders down
 to over the seat and the  bottom of the
 coat1 and that at the side it tapers   
outward from under  the arm to over the 
largest part at the thigh1 and down to  
the end of  the coat1 but does not touch
 the hollow of the waist anywhere1      
running  straight downward4 ,in front it
 will taper outward but fit the whole   
chest  above the pit of the stomach2    
below1 it will taper forward and stick  
outward in front1 as shown in ,fig4     
,,ii4    ,to reduce the front1 means to 
reduce the front angle of #ae deg4 so   
that  it falls straight downward from   
the front of the waist the same as it   
does at the back of the seat1 thus      
giving stepping room for the legs1      
backward and forward1 as also shown in  
,fig4 ,,ii4 ,elsewhere the modus        

operandi is fully explained4    ,now1   
suppose this angle of #ae deg41 as a    
completed coat1 is upon the  body1 and  
without a wrinkle in the back as well as
 without any reduction  at the hollow of
 the back of the waist1 and let         
us--contemplate the  scene6 ,if we      
desire to bring the straight back into  
the hollow of the  body at the side and 
back1 we must do what we have done to   
bring the back  of the pants in to the  
body1 back and below the seat4 ,we must 
cut the  waist through1 starting at the 
side and going all around the back1 and 
over to the other side2 and when thus   
cut through we can push the upper  part 
in to the hollow of the waist4 ,and it  
will be found that in so doing  the     
upper portion becomes too wide for that 
circle around the body and  must be     
reduced in width4 ,at the same time the 
upper part becomes too  short and a     
wedge must be put in1 starting with     
nothing at the side and  running        
backward2 and the closer we try to fit  

the waist1 the wider the  wedge must be 
at the back1 and the more the back must 
be reduced in width4    ,dia4 ,,iii     
demonstrates this fact by the shorter   
back1 and by the reduction  of the back 
of the sidepiece1 and by the wedge      
between the bottom of the  sidepiece and
 the top of the skirt4 ,i do not claim  
that it is just so1 by  every fraction  
of an inch1 but ,i know that ,dia4 ,,iii
 will produce a coat  that will fit the 
normal form1 and is the same as ,dia4   
,,ii2 and if anyone  else would like to 
see it illustrated in a different way it
 would merely  show that our ideas are  
running in different directions4 ,but   
this would  not change the principle4   
,now1 ,i will refer to the different    
effects produced if the wearer throws   
himself into a stooping or over-erect   
position when the garment is cut        
through at and across the hollow of the 
waist4 ,by observing the backward  and  
forward movements of the different      
forms1 it cannot fail to show to  the   

most critical observer that most all    
changes between the stooping and  the   
erect form can be made by reducing the  
width and giving more length  for the   
stooping1 and by reducing length and    
giving more width for the  erect form at
 the hollow of the waist2 and no other  
change is required1  unless a           
combination of abnormal conditions      
exists4 ,the gore between the  back and 
the sidepiece at the waist is an        
artificial gore1 and should not  be much
 changed for any form4    ,most all     
changes between the stooping and erect  
forms may be made at the  under arm     
seam1 as follows3 ,for the erect form1  
allow say  to  inches  at the side1 and 
before sewing that seam up stretch the  
sidepiece say   to  inches1 which will  
shorten the back seam that much and     
throw the  extra width behind where it  
belongs4 ,for a stooping form1 take off 
the  same width at the side1 and stretch
 the back seam of the sidepiece at1  and
 just above1 the hollow of the waist1   

but never enough to show the  back full4
 ,the reason why ,i am opposed to       
changing much on the back seam  of the  
sidepiece is1 that that seam is always  
on a curve and it is very  long1        
reaching clear down to the bottom of the
 coat1 and is apt to be  thrown clear   
out of gear by changing it4 ,but the    
under arm cut is nearly  straight1 and  
short1 and can better be managed4 ,if a 
vest can be thrown  in by that seam     
surely a frock coat can also4 ,if the   
back is a trifle  full at the sidepiece1
 and at the hollow of the waist1 a coat 
will be  made the better by it1 and in  
no case should the back be stretched    
there4  ,if the back requires           
shortening1 it must be obtained by      
stretching the  sidepiece on the        
forepart downward1 or by folding up the 
pattern at the  back of the sidepiece4  
,the form of alteration depends upon the
 time it is  to be made1 either before  
the coat is cut1 or after it is made4   
,to this article of erect forms may be  

added something about straight  backs1  
at the neck1 or from the shoulder blade 
upward4 ,a long neck may  lean forward  
and may then be classed among stooping  
forms1 and must be  stretched           
accordingly2 that is1 by lengthening the
 back only4 ,but a  long neck may shoot 
nearly straight up behind1 in which case
 it must be  classed among the erect    
forms4    ,between a long neck leaning  
forward and a long neck shooting nearly 
straight up behind1 there must be a     
difference in the shape of the top  of  
the back4 ,we all know that the top of  
the center of the back must be  higher  
or at least as high as the side of the  
back1 when the coat is on  the body2    
still when the pattern is spread out on 
a flat surface1 the  neckhole is nearly 
a circle1 and it will be a still more   
complete circle  when the garment is on 
the body4 ,it must run nearly in a      
circle because  from the chest1         
shoulders and shoulder blades the body  
runs upward to a  point1 as shown in    

,fig4 ,i1 but the garments are cut off  
at the neck4 ,the  broader the top of   
the back is cut1 the more center sinks  
down behind1 as  shown in ,dia4 ,v4     
,now1 the cutting down of the top and   
center of back must be done1 because  we
 intend to cut the shoulder seam where  
fashion requires it should be4  ,as far 
as the fit is concerned1 we might run   
the shoulder seam to within   in4 of the
 center of back1 in which case the      
center of the back would  be the highest
 point4 ,as backs are cut1 the sides are
 the highest point  on the flat table1  
but when on the body the center of back 
is the highest  point1 and we may just  
as well say that the top and center of  
back are  the highest points1 that this 
is the starting point1 and that from    
this  point the whole neckhole is thrown
 forward and downward1 where it forms   
in a complete circle around the neck4   
,i am writing here about the neckhole   
proper1 and not of the length of  the   
back over the blade2 and the above      

explanations are made to show  that the 
so-called front shoulder point is       
anywhere we please to locate  the       
shoulder seam1 and again1 ,i want to    
show that a straight back1 or a         
straight neck behind1 requires the top  
and center of back higher than a  neck  
which leans forward4    ,mr4 ,j4 ,b4    
,west1 in his 8,grand ,edition10 page   
#cj1 claims that the  principle         
alteration from a normal to a stooping  
form consists in raising  the center of 
the top of back 7somewhere up to line   
,a47 ,i certainly  will not dispute the 
merits of ,mr4 ,west1 but ,i must say   
that1 like  all mortals1 he made        
mistakes1 and the above is a 8,grand    
,mistake10  especially when we read on  
page #e1 that the problem he has worked 
on  for fifteen years is now solved1 and
 complete1 and will stand without       
improvement1 or alteration1 as long as  
there is no change in the  construction 
of the human form4    ,about thirty     
years have passed1 and the human form   

has not changed1 and  still ,i claim1   
that the above alteration must be made  
in just a contrary  way2 that is1 that  
the circle for the neckhole over the    
back must be  more complete toward the  
center of back for a person who drops   
his neck  downward and forward1 and that
 the erect form or the straight form on 
the back of neck requires the circle    
straightened over the center of  back1  
and will here repeat1 that on the angle 
of #ace deg4 a neckhole can  be cut and 
fitted with a complete circle as seen in
 ,dia4 ,,xi and ,,xii4 ,that  part of   
the circle which passes through the     
back1 say #b in4 wide1 sinks  about  at 
the center of back1 and this part must  
be straighter behind  for a straighter  
neck1 and may be made entirely straight 
for extremely  straight backs4    ,quite
 straight backs are usually long necks1 
and for such the center  of back must be
 raised1 whereas a short straight neck  
would require  the sides lowered4 ,how  
much more or less all this may be1 must 

depend  upon the judgment of the cutter1
 and as the whole thing turns within    
five-eighths of a number1 a cutter      
cannot go far out of the way2 but he    
should observe that a collar one half or
 even one quarter inch lower  behind    
than at the sides1 is a spoiled collar1 
and that a collar which is  too high is 
easily cut down1 but when it is too low 
it is hard to bring  it up1 unless there
 are outlets4    ,some cutters may say  
that ,i am mentioning things which will 
do them no  good1 because they cannot go
 into all the details4 ,this ,i admit1  
but  others again will be glad to have a
 thing figured down1 so that they  need 
not bother their heads about it4 ,but to
 illustrate3 ,let us suppose  we have   
before us a round wooden pole #e in4 in 
diameter1 representing  the neck of a   
man4 ,if we cut it straight through we  
can fit a collar to  it with a square   
piece of cloth or paper4 ,such a square 
piece fits to  the circumference of a   
pole1 if wound around on horizontal     

lines4 ,next1  let us suppose that we   
cut one end down1 about #c in41         
representing the  forward and downward  
slope of the neck1 and we find that a   
straight  piece will not fit that slope1
 but must be hollowed out4 ,now1 if we  
build shoulders to it1 and a chest and  
shoulder blades1 in fact take  the form 
of a person for our model1 we find that 
the neckhole of a  garment goes around  
the top of a body sloping upward from   
all sides1  though irregularly1 but that
 a complete circle from the point of the
  angle of #ace deg4 will fit the neck  
after #de deg4 have been taken out  from
 its center1 all of which will form an  
irregular circle or curve1  while in any
 shape on the flat table2 but will form 
an almost complete  circle when sewed   
together and placed on the body4 ,the   
neck itself is  almost a complete       
circle1 and the point of the angle of   
#ace deg4 must  be considered as the    
center of the neck1 which is round1 but 
to which  cloth must be brought by      

irregular approaches4 ,now if we find a 
straight  neck behind1 with hardly any  
incline from the back forward1 the      
garment  must run straight up1 too1 and 
the circle for the neckhole must be     
straightened as far as the back goes2   
but if the neck slopes forward1 the     
garment must turn forward also1 and the 
edge of the circle over the back  must  
form a more complete part of a circle4  
,but ,i must make another illustration3 
,take a piece of stiff paper1 and  cut  
out of it a half circle of say #d in4   
whole diameter1 representing  the neck  
of a #cf breast measure1 or thereabouts4
 ,take that circle and  fit it to the   
neck of a man on horizontal lines1 and  
the circle will fit  the neck no matter 
where you apply it4 ,next try to fit it 
to the neck  from the side1 but on the  
slope of the shoulders1 and the circle  
will be  too round for the neck4 ,again1
 try to fit it from the slope of the    
back1  and the difference between neck  
and circle will be still greater4 ,next1

  take a stove-pipe of #d in4 diameter  
and try to fit it on that1 and on       
perpendicular lines1 and you will find  
that the circle cannot be used  at all1 
but that a square piece must be used for
 that4 ,if the neck were  as wide as the
 shoulders1 and the chest and the       
blades1 that is1 if the  body would run 
straight up from these points1 then the 
top edge could be  fitted with nothing  
else but a square piece of cloth4       
,after all1 the above pros and cons let 
me say that if ,dia4 ,,ii is used for   
the stooping form1 place height of back 
to  higher1 and reduce the  back of the 
sidepiece  to  more1 at the waist1 and  
that is about the  best alteration which
 will result from the description of the
 stooping  form4 ,contrary3 ,placing    
height of back at #ad1 and giving  to   
more  spring at the waist will give a   
good proportion for the erect form4 ,as 
to the difference of #a numbers more or 
less back length over the blade1        
between the stooping and erect form1    

each cutter must judge for himself1  for
 it cannot be measured on the human     
form4    ,short persons with short necks
 and very flat shoulder blades1 may be  
fitted with a height of back of #ad     
above line #i1 and top of back at #c    
and side of neck at #d4 7,see ,odd      
,forms ,i47 ,erect forms who throw their
  arms backward can be fitted by using a
 pattern one or two sizes too  small1   
and by allowing the difference of  to #a
 inch1 as the case may  be1 on the front
 of the breast4 ,if a cutter will put a 
coat1 say two  sizes too small on such a
 form1 he will find that the back1 the  
shoulders  and the armhole fit1 but that
 the front of breast is too small1 and  
the  extra size must be allowed there4  
,this rule will work both ways1 and the 
contrary may be applied for stooping    
forms4          ,illustration           
,,odd ,,forms4      ,during the summer  
of #ahia1 ,i reviewed such patterns     
which ,i had preserved  for several     
years back1 and ,i knew that they were  

good4 ,i laid them out  like ,dia4 ,,ii1
 ,,iv1 ,,viii1 ,v,i,i,ia and ,x1 and    
they came as near together  as could be 
expected1 at least they came near enough
 so that a slight  difference would make
 no difference in the fit1 and ,i think 
,i can give  some valuable information  
if ,i give descriptions of some odd     
shaped  garments1 just as ,i found them4
      ,i4--,,cutaway ,,frock ,,coat4    
,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4    ,breast1 #dj2  
,waist1 #dj2 ,hip1 #da2 ,seat1 #dj2     
,length of legs1 #cj4 ,the seat  measure
 and the length of legs are noted for   
the purpose of giving  a better         
impression of the form4 ,form3          
,erect--square shoulders--short         
neck--height of back above line #i is   
#ad--top of back1 #c--side of neck1     
#d--;bottom of armhole1  above #aa4 ,no 
gore under the arm1 but a spring of     
inch at line #ah1 on which line is also 
the waist length of the back4  ,the     
waist seam drops #a in front2 is even in
 front and side1 but laps   over the    

gore in the forepart1 which is  inch1   
running up to line #ae4  ,front3 ,quaker
 ,cutaway1 with no lapel--standing      
collar--front of neck at  #c--notch in  
center of #ae deg4--for the button hole 
side allow  in front  of base1 and for  
the button side  more4 ,in front of line
 #i1 allow  for  both sides and meet    
base again in front of #aa4 ,at #ae go  
forward #c--;at  #bj1 #b4 ,meet plumb   
base at #bf and go back #c at line #cb4 
,drop bottom of  skirt  at the base4    
,shoulder laps  at the neck and  toward 
the blade4  ,gore between the back and  
sidepiece3  at the armhole--meet at     
#aj-- at  #aa-- at #ad1 on back--#a at  
#ae--a at #ah1--a at #bj-- at #be-- at  
#cj4  ,center of back is hollowed out   
at #ag1 and at line #cj the finished    
hook  is #a out4      ,,ii4--,,frock    
,,coat4    ,breast1 #cf2 waist1 #ca2    
seat1 #cf4 ,form3 ,erect--square        
shoulders--full  breast--very hollow    
back1 which causes the shoulder blade to
 appear pretty  prominent--waist        

diameter very small from side to side4  
,this is a form  which mostly has its   
coat back too long or too wide1 and     
requires quite a  close breast measure1 
or a small square and a full breast4 ,an
 apparently  long coat back behind the  
arm is caused when the seat has not     
enough  spring4 ,model3 ,dia4 ,,ii4     
,square of #ag4 ,the height of back     
above line #i  over the front is #ae    
numbers--top of back #c--side of neck   
#d4 ,the shoulder  seam is even at both 
neck and armhole1 but toward the blade  
there is a  lap of  inch1 and which seam
 is for the square shoulder4 ,under-arm 
gore3   at line #ae-- at #ag--a at line 
#ah1 which is the length for the waist  
on the back-- at #bj4 ,for the          
contracted waist length behind1 the top 
of  skirt1 and the bottom of the back   
sidepiece seam is even1 but lap  at  the
 underarm gore--#a at the plumb line    
base-- in front4 ,the bottom of the     
sidepiece is  higher behind1 but when   
the coat is on1 the run of the  waist   

seam is even1 on the erect form4 ,at the
 waist the forepart has a  gore of #a   
starting at line #ae4 ,the front of     
breast is #a in front of  #i--meets the 
front angle in front of line #ae--;and  
strikes the base at #cb  for a cutaway4 
,spring center of back out from line    
#ae3  at #bj--a at #be--a  at #cj1 and  
then allow #a in4 for the hook4 ,gore   
between sidepiece and  back3  at the    
armhole--meets at #aj on back-- at #aa  
over the front--#a at  #ae on back--#a  
at #ae over the front--#a at #ag-- at   
#bj-- at #be-- at #cj4                  
,,iii4--,,frock ,,coat4    ,breast1 #cd1
 close measure2 waist1 #cj2 seat1 #cd2  
length of legs1 #bi4  ,form3            
,erect--long neck--flat shoulder        
blades--all normal cut coats fall away  
from his neck--are too long and too wide
 in the back and too small in  the      
breast4 ,model3 ,dia4 ,,ii--the square  
was made #ag--top of back #b--side  of  
neck #c--shoulders lap  at the neck and 
toward the blade--height  of back above 

line #i1 #ad numbers4 ,gore between back
 and sidepiece3   at armhole--meets at  
line #aa-- at line #i and #ad-- at      
#ae--a at #ag-- at  #bj--meet again at  
#be to #cj-- at #ce4 ,spring back from  
#ae--;allow  at #be--a  at #cj--;and    
allow for the hook4 ,the front is       
straight--single-breasted--the  lapel is
 #c in front of the base on top--#c in  
front of #aa--meets the  front angle at 
#ae--thence parallel with the plumb     
base4 ,the waist seam  is even at the   
underarm cut--skirt and front laps #a at
 line #bj1 running  so forward4 ,bottom 
of skirt sinks  in front4 ,the vest had 
lap at the  shoulder seam toward the    
neck and top of back was placed at #c1  
and had a  spring of #a at the center of
 back at line #bj4 ,the vest was cut    
size #cc1  and  inch allowed in front of
 the breast1 which accounts for the     
small  square and the full breast4      
,,iv4 ,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4    ,breast1 
#ce2 waist1 #cc2 seat1 #ce4 ,form3 ,a   
combination of stooping and  erect--neck

 bends forward--arms thrown             
backward--shoulders thrown up and       
square--very hollow at the back of the  
waist but erect there--shoulder  blades 
prominent--seat shows very little at the
 back--front of waist and  front of     
thigh thrown forward--top of back       
#c--side of neck #c--shoulder  laps  at 
the neck-- toward the blade4 ,side of   
shoulder #i at #fj deg4  ,height of back
 above line #i is #ae4 ,underarm gore1  
on line #i-- at  line #ae--a at #ag-- at
 #bj4 ,gore between the back and        
sidepiece3  at  the armhole--meet at #aa
 on the back-- at #aa-- at #ae--a at #ae
 over the  front--#a at #ag--a at #bj-- 
at #be-- at #cj-- at #ce4 ,the forepart 
has a gore  of  at the waist seam1 and  
the same gore between the skirt and     
forepart  in front4 ,center of back3    
,from #ae upward allow  outside of the  
base1  and come even again on top--from 
#ae downward go inward of the base  at  
#ag--meet again at #bb--;go out  at     
#cj-- at #ce for the center and allow   

for  the hook1 etc4 ,front3 ,in front of
 #i allow #a--meet front edge and front 
angle at #ad--;go out #c at #bj--a at   
#cj--meet at #ce4 ,sink front of skirt  
1 and no lap between skirt and forepart 
at the waist seam except to  straighten 
the forepart over the gore4             
,v4--,,large-,,waisted ,,sack ,,coat4   
,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,viiia4    ,breast1    
#dc2 waist1 #df2 hip1 #df2 seat1 #dd2   
length of pants1 #cb inches4  ,form3    
,large all around--prominent shoulder   
blades--square shoulders--arms  thrown  
back--neck rather short--head and front 
of waist bent forward--sides  of waist  
full--all normal cut coats are too high 
in the neck for this  form4 ,square of  
#ah1 which is small but good4 ,top of   
back at #c--side of  neck #c4 ,shoulder 
seam laps  at the neck and  toward the  
blade--at #fj  deg41 #i4 ,height of back
 above line #i over the forepart1 #ab4  
,underarm  cut1 #a1 and stretched up 4  
,side seam3 even at the armhole1 and    
down to  #aa-- at #ae--a at #ag--a at   

#bj-- at #be-- at #cj4 ,center of back3 
,from line  #ag spring out  at line #be4
 ,front3 ,in front of point #i give     
#a--meet the  front edge at the front   
angle at #bj--;go out #e at #be and #d  
at #cj--which will  give a pretty       
straight front1 but runs a trifle       
backward at the bottom4  ,on top of     
lapel allow #a in front of the front    
angle and cut a gore of   under the     
lapel and in the center of the angle of 
#ae deg4 ,at the bottom  sink the front 
at the base4 ,notice that the           
proportions are all small  over the     
breast line1 but full in front1 and also
 full at the side of  waist1 and will   
make a good coat for that size4         
,,vi4--,,model3 ,,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia4       
,the breast size is the same as the     
preceding description1 but the waist    
and hip are comparatively small4        
,breast1 #dc2 waist1 #da2 hip1 #dc4     
,form  very erect and hollow in the back
 of waist--shoulders square--arms thrown
  back1 requiring a small square for the

 back1 and a full breast4 ,square  of   
#ah--under arm gore  at #aa and         
stretched up --height of back above     
line #i is #ab--top of back is at #c and
 side of neck #c--shoulder seam laps    
at the neck--side of shoulders1         
#i--;gore between side and back3 even at
  armhole--even at #aa--a at #ae--a at  
#ag--b at #bj--a at #be and #bh4 ,center
  of back spring3  at line #be1 starting
 at #ag--;cutaway front4 ,allow #a in   
front of #i--meet front edge and front  
angle at #ae--c in front of #bj--b at   
#be--meet at #bh4      ,,vii4 ,a ,,vest 
,,for ,a ,,large ,,waist4    ,breast1   
#de2 waist1 #dh2 hip1 #dh2 seat1 #dj4   
,dia4 ,,iv as the model4 ,breast        
measure taken over the shirt4 ,the under
 arm cut is  inch at the hollow  of     
waist1 but both back and front meet     
below and above4 ,this  inch is  simply 
to give form to the seams4 ,top of back 
is #d--side of neck #d for  top of      
collar band--bottom of neck band #e4    
,side of shoulders at #fj deg41         

#i--shoulder seam even1 but  inch spring
 at the neck may be good4 ,center  of   
back is on the line and spring of  at   
the bottom--height of back1 #ad4  ,from 
the point of the angle of #ace deg4 go  
down #g numbers for the front  edge of  
the vest and go forward a  at line      
#i--a1 at line #ae--a at #ag4  ,cut a   
small gore in the forepart1 below the   
pocket1 in order to make the  front to  
conform to the oval form of the body4   
,the description of this  vest and ,dia4
 ,,xx will fit the same person4 ,this   
vest1 made up and placed  on a person of
 #cf breast and #cb waist measure1 will 
fit at the shoulders1  and if it is left
 to hang alone1 will simply be too large
 all around  the breast and around the  
waist1 but hangs good4 ,there is one    
peculiar  feature in this or all large  
vests cut according to this work1 which 
should be considered4 ,you can draw all 
surplus cloth together behind1  or in   
front1 or at the side1 or you may pin it
 up even all around1 and  the fit of the

 shoulders will remain4 ,for this       
reason1 vests one size  too large will  
fit the same1 and are better than if one
 size too small4  ,cut all vests  waist 
and #b inches at the waist line1 and pay
 little  attention to the hip line1 as  
long as the sides have an opening over  
the  hips4 ,if no opening is left there 
the hip line must also receive  hip  and
 #b inches4 ,allow all extra waist      
proportion1 by allowing one half  of it 
in front and one half at the side of the
 back4 ,any other surplus  width1 which 
may be desired may be allowed at the    
center of the back1  where it may be    
buckled up smooth4      ,,viii4--,frock 
,coat for a ,very ,stooping ,form1 and  
with ,very ,round ,shoulder  ,blades4   
,,model3 ,,dia4 ,,ii4    ,very hollow   
breast--front of waist and back of waist
 very erect--square of  #ah--;front of  
armhole  in front of #de deg41 where    
armhole and sleeve meet  at #aj--;back  
sleeve seam laps  at line #h--top of    
back at #c--side of neck at  #c--;height

 of back above line #i1 #ae--width of   
back at #i1 #g4 ,centre of  back is     
hollowed out  at the hollow of the      
waist1 meets base at #bb and  at line   
#ce the edge for the finished hook is #a
 outside4 ,gore between the  side and   
back3  at the armhole-- at #ae--a at    
#ae--a at #ag--a at #bj--a at  #be--a at
 #cj4 ,underarm cut3  at #ae-- at #ag-- 
at #ai4 ,the shoulder seam  laps  at the
 neck and  at the blade4 ,front edge3 #a
 in front of #c--a in  front of #i--meet
 at #ad--c at #bj--b at #cj--a at #ce4  
,no gore in breast1 but   gore in the   
front waist seam4 ,drop front skirt  at 
the base4      ,,ix4--,,fat ,,men',s    
,,overcoat4    ,breast1 #eb2 waist1 #fj4
 ,form1 very erect2 front of waist band 
forward and  abdomen very large and     
round4 ,the shoulders are normal1 and   
the shoulder  seam have the same spring 
as ,dia4 ,x4 ,the model is ,dia4 ,x4    
,the square is  #ai numbers1 and #a     
numbers are cut out as a gore under the 
arm1 and the  sidepiece stretched upward

 4 ,the large square and the large gore 
under  the arm1 throw extra waist       
proportion into the center of the       
forepart4  ,neck from #ace deg4--top of 
back #c--side of back #c--;at #fj deg4  
#c--;base  #c--;armhole from #ace deg43 
front sleeve nick at #aj--;at #fj deg4  
#h--;at #de  deg4 or top square         
#i--width of back at #h is #f--;bottom  
of armhole is   above line #aa1 and the 
front sleeve base is forward two seams4 
,the front  of armhole is on #de deg4   
,center of back3 height of back above   
line #i  is #ab numbers--from line #ae  
spring out #a at #be4 ,center of front  
from  the plumb line base3 top -- gore1 
to edge--at #aa1 #d--;at #bj1 #f--;at   
#cj1  #f--;drop front of bottom #a1 and 
set the buttons back from the edge about
 #b  inches4    ,now1 while ,i am       
describing 8,odd ,forms10 which in      
reality are not odd at  all1 only a     
trifle different from the so-called     
normal form1 it may be  well1 to point  
out another fact3 ,for coats and vests  

all large-waisted  forms require either 
a proportionately smaller scale with    
extra allowance  in front of the breast1
 or if the measure and the scale are    
used the same  as on a small-waisted    
form1 the square must be made smaller1  
and the  front must be that much larger4
    ,it is the same on the full-breasted
 and on the erect forms1 and the        
description of ,forms ,v and ,,vi1 as   
well as ,dia4 ,v,i,i,ia1 with their     
different squares ought to be sufficient
 to give a general idea of what  is to  
be taken off behind in the square1 and  
what is to be allowed in  front4        
,large-waisted persons have mostly erect
 forms even if they should  have        
prominent shoulder blades1 or throw     
their necks down in front4 ,at  the     
hollow of waist they may be considered  
erect and mostly throw their  arms      
backward1 and all such forms require a  
smaller square and a larger  breast4    
,the best way to measure is this3 ,take 
all measures even and  close1 and reduce

 the square1 and enlarge the breast     
according to the  above description1 and
 according to your judgment1 and        
remember1 that   inch more1 or  inch    
less in the breast1 or in the square1   
may be  considered the outside limit1   
and that  inch goes a good ways4    ,in 
regard to the amount1 you better learn  
to depend upon your judgment1  for if   
that should be ever so poor1 it will be 
better than a so-called  proof or       
balance measure1 from the center of back
 forward4 ,that measure1  even if taken 
with the utmost care1 will mostly depend
 upon the coat  which the person wears1 
and not upon the body1 which is to be   
fitted4          ,illustration          
,,low ,,shoulders4      ,low shoulders  
and long necks are the same4 ,dia4 ,,ix 
shows the correct  alteration for such  
forms as well as for the stooping form4 
,the body  between the arm and neck     
becomes longer than usual1 and          
consequently the  coat must be          
lengthened on each back and front alike4

 ,attempting to cut  the shoulders lower
 at the arm will never lift the coat up 
to the neck4  ,if that alteration is    
correctly made no other portion is to be
 altered4  ,all allowance for a longer  
neck should be given sparingly1 as  in4 
on  each back and each front goes a     
great ways2 only extremes may require   
more1 and from  to  in4 may be called   
correct for the average long  neck4 ,the
 front of the neck hole should not be   
raised on a long neck1 for  the very    
length of neck requires extra depth     
there4 ,addition for a longer  neck     
should be started at the middle of the  
shoulder seam1 as indicated  by dotted  
lines in ,dia4 ,,ix4    ,raising the    
side of the back up higher requires the 
center of the back  higher also1 all of 
which may be run out to nothing at the  
sleeve base4  ,adding say  in4 to the   
top of the neck will make the shoulder  
look  broader1 that is1 the shoulder on 
top of the slope will contain more      
space from arm to neck1 though the      

diameter of the shoulders from side to  
side may not be any larger4 ,the armhole
 must be considered the same for  all   
long or short necks1 and the changes    
must be made upward1 and above  the     
armhole1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,ix1 and if 
that is correct1 the so-called  8front  
shoulder point0 exists in the           
imagination of each individual  cutter  
only4    ,if the shoulders and the neck 
of all men were formed the same1 there  
would be very little trouble to fit     
coats4 ,but the longer1 or shorter1  or 
forward or backward leaning neck play   
smash with the fitting points4  ,all    
kinds of imaginary proof measures have  
been invented1 but they all  will prove 
that they are not proof1 unless the     
measure is a straight one1  either      
horizontal1 or perpendicular1 or        
parallel4 ,the proof measure1 as  shown 
in ,fig4 ,i1 and which consists of the  
application of the angle of  #ace deg41 
is a new measure1 of my own invention1  
and it will do away with  all the       

so-called long or short balance measures
 which have been used for  the last     
century4    ,when ,i say give so and so 
much more for a long neck1 ,i mean so   
much more  than what is shown in ,dia4  
,,ii1 all of which may be divided       
between the  forepart and the back1 but 
so that the top of back is never less   
than  #b in4 wide4 ,i will repeat here  
that a long neck not only requires the  
shoulder straps longer1 but the top and 
the side of the back must be cut  closer
 toward the center1 gradually running   
out at the front4 ,if the  shoulder seam
 has #a in4 spring1 that is1  to  more  
than ,dia4 ,,ii1 the  top of back may be
 placed at #b and the side of neck at   
#c1 and this will  make a good          
proportion for the average long neck4   
,so far ,i have found  in my practice1  
that very few cases require more4 ,the  
worst case ,i ever  found was fitted    
with #a spring allowed on the forepart1 
with top of  back at #b and side of neck
 at #b1 and ,i do not think that there  

is any  shoulder which requires more4   
,in all cases the collar must be sewed  
on  easy1 on each 8side of the neck0 not
 behind4    ,but here ,i will give      
another idea of fitting a long and      
straight neck3 ,at  the center of the   
back and from the back sleeve base      
upward1 go outside  of the base and     
allow say  in4 8extra10 and at the same 
time allow  in4  on top of back and at  
the side of neck4 ,the  inch extra      
allowance on the  back may again be     
reduced from the front of neck downward1
 but this is  of little consequence1 for
 if not cut off1 the lapel and the      
breast will  simply be that much larger1
 which is mostly a 8good fault0 for such
 a  coat1 and may often be quite        
necessary1 as all such forms are mostly 
full  breasted4 ,if for any cause1 the  
top of back and side of neck are placed 
closer toward the center1 do not drop   
the front of the neck hole1 because  the
 extra spring at the shoulder seam will 
produce all extra length  required4     

,the low and the high shoulders may be  
considered very indefinite terms1  and a
 cutter must learn to use his judgment  
as to what each particular  customer    
requires1 but for the reason that ,dia4 
,,ii will fit at least #di  out of #ej  
persons1 all changes must be made with  
great caution1 because  the actual      
shoulder is not to be fitted at all1 and
 if anybody attempts  to do this1 he    
must cut low shoulders for most all1 and
 the majority he  will have to alter1   
more or less4    ,about a year ago1     
while at church on a ,sunday1 ,i noticed
 a man who sat  in front of me2 he wears
 different coats according to the       
weather4 ,two  of such coats fit him as 
good as any can be made1 but one coat   
makes  him low shouldered while the     
other gives him the appearance of a     
square  shoulder4 ,the square shoulder  
coat don't fit as close around the arm  
as  the one with the low shoulder1 but  
the square shoulder hangs good1 sleeve  
included1 and no one will ask anything  

better4 ,any cutter can satisfy  himself
 on that point by trying on different   
good fitting coats1 on the  same person1
 and by doing so he will soon find that 
a solid measure  around the arm and     
shoulder1 or a so-called 8,balance      
,measure0 is one of  the greatest       
delusions the ,nineteenth century has   
brought forth1 in so  far as fitting    
garments is concerned4    ,but ,i must  
point to another reason why a coat can  
be fitted to the same  person with      
either a square or a sloping shoulder4  
,a coat cut too high  up at the back and
 at the side of the neck will have the  
appearance of a  lower shoulder1 because
 the coat starts higher up4 ,at the     
present time  the style for the         
shoulders is toward a square shoulder1  
and ,i think that  will be the style for
 some time to come4 ,looking back to    
continental  styles and pictures1 we    
find all coats high up at the back and  
at the  side of the neck1 and           
consequently all are represented as low 

shoulders4    ,in fitting clothing      
according to the present style1 a cutter
 must see1  though he is compelled to   
cut a coat for a long neck higher than  
usual1  that it gets not too high1 but  
as low as possible for that purpose1 and
  cutters who are not above trying on   
will often find it to advantage to      
change the height of the collar a       
trifle1 thought the fit may be the same 
for all4 ,this is another point which   
cannot be learned by rules1 or from     
books1 or in cutting schools1 but must  
be acquired by practice1 after a        
cutter's mind has been directed to it1  
and his mind must be clear always1  and 
never be benumbed by whisky1 or by      
tobacco1 nor by fast women4             
,illustration          ,illustration    
,,extra ,,square ,,shoulders4      ,real
 square shoulders are seldom to be found
 unless the form is classed  among the  
humpbacks1 when the shoulders may even  
be higher at the arm  than at the neck4 
,by the term 8,square ,shoulders0 is    

usually understood  to be squarer       
shoulders than are ordinarily found4    
,but right here let  me say1 that as    
long as the shoulders are cut on the    
angle of #ace deg4  there is not much   
danger of getting them too low or too   
square for almost  anyone1 for the      
reason that coats are not to be cut     
skin-tight at the  armhole4 ,the armhole
 must be larger than the body all       
around1 and no coat  feels agreeable or 
looks well if the armhole is            
tight-fitting on the top  of the arm or 
at the shoulder seam4    ,the shoulders 
should fit at the neck1 but not tight4  
,they should hang  and balance          
themselves between the arm and the neck1
 where neither the  movement of the neck
 nor that of the arms interferes with   
the coat4 ,at  the arm1 the shoulders of
 a well-fitting coat should be loose1   
and as  long as the sleeve fits so that 
it will not drag the armhole out of     
place  such looseness will remain there1
 forming a square shoulder4    ,a       

shoulder that appears flat on the top1  
and breaks behind or in front1  will    
always set better when the sleeves are  
out1 because the sleeve-head  is too    
short1 pulling the shoulder downward1   
and it must make a break  either in     
front or back of the arm2 and it is for 
this reason that  whenever they try on  
coats the journeyman is required to     
baste in one or  both sleeves4 ,for this
 reason1 ,i claim the sleeve system1 as 
laid down  in this work1 is far superior
 to any other4 ,to fit the shoulders and
  the sleeves together is really a      
question of how not to fit the body of  
a person1 and still1 produce a garment  
which will take the eye of the  public4 
,a tight-fitting shoulder at the arm1   
and a tight-fitting waist in  the back1 
are not the present conception of fit1  
or of style1 for men's  garments1 and in
 all probability never will be4    ,the 
shoulders are based upon a slope of #bb 
deg41 not because they slope  just that 
much1 for they may be #bb or #bc deg41  

or anything near that1 but  that is a   
good average2 and #bb deg4 is the fourth
 part of a square1 and  is an even      
division of a square1 and a known       
quantity4    ,i will here say3 ,extra   
square shoulders are seldom found which 
cannot  be fitted by ,dia4 ,,ii1 by     
simply cutting the spring between the   
shoulder  seam  less at the neck and    
placing the top of the back and the side
 of  the neck say  to  of a number      
lower1 while the armhole remains as it  
is1 including the sleeve4 ,there is no  
question but that the lower1 or  the    
higher shoulders1 can be fitted by      
making the change at the armhole1  but  
in either case the whole armhole and the
 whole sleeve1 as well as  the waist1   
requires a re-adjustment4 ,but ,i do not
 want to earn glory by  giving a        
description of it4    ,illustration     
,illustration          ,,scientific     
,,calculations ,,in ,,the ,,square ,,and
 ,,circle4    7,,see ,,dias4 ,,xi ,,and 
,,xii47      ,these are not given for   

practical cutting1 but are given as an  
example of  scientific calculation in   
garment cutting4 ,although they are     
quite plain  they may be called         
scientific conundrums1 because the      
present generation  of cutters knows    
nothing about them4      ,,scientific   
,,conundrum ,,in ,,the ,,square4        
,mark a square of any unknown surface2  
divide one side into #bj equal  parts1  
each part of which is a unit1 or one    
number of the scale2 use said  #bj parts
 as a scale1 representing the half      
breast circumference1 and  #b inches2   
with this scale make a diagram or draft 
of a vest1 or coat1  according to this  
work--all of which is done before the   
size of the square  is known4 ,when     
done1 measure the square1 or #bj parts  
of the scale1 by  inches4    ,now1      
suppose the square turns out to be #bj  
inches2 the size of the  garment is #ce 
breast1 or #ag inches and #b inches4 ,if
 the square turns  out to be #bb inches1
 the garment will be size #dj1 and so   

on1 always #b  sizes less than the      
square4 ,if1 however1 the size of the   
square is too  small to make a full     
size1 multiply its units by any number  
whereby you  can find a certain desired 
size4 ,for instance3 ,if the square     
contains #e  inches1 each  inch is a    
unit1 or one part of the scale4         
,multiply the #e  inches by #d and you  
have #bj inches4 ,now1 take #d units of 
the original1  which represents here #a 
inch1 and your new scale will represent 
#bj inches  divided into #bj parts1 and 
will also cut size #ce4 ,if you multiply
 the  #e-;inch square by #c1 you will   
produce #ah inches1 and if you take #c  
units  as #a unit1 each unit will       
represent  of #ah inches1 and the size  
of  the garment will be #cj4 ,if you    
multiply the #e inches with #d1 you will
  obtain #bb inches1 and by taking #d   
units as #a unit for the scale1 each    
unit will represent  part of #bb inches1
 and the size will be #ci4              
,,scientific ,,conundrum ,,in ,,the     

,,circle4    ,divide the half-diameter  
of a circle into #bj equal parts2 then  
measure  the half-diameter of the circle
 by inches1 and if said result does not 
give a required size multiply the same  
as in a square2 use the same  units1 and
 the same result will be obtained4 ,all 
this must be done as in  a square of    
#bj1 but afterwards the square of #ag   
may be produced as shown  in the        
diagram4    ,fractional multiplication  
will result in the same thing1 but may  
result  in the fractional sizes1 as #cd1
 #ce and #cf1 and so on4 ,the six points
  of the compass will give all the base 
lines correctly on the square of  #bj as
 well as on the square of #ag4 ,it      
requires no scale1 for one main  point  
will give the other complete4 ,the full 
diameter of the circle is #dj  parts1   
and the triangle1 as shown in ,dia4     
,,xii1 contains #ce1 half of which  is  
#bj and #ag1 for which reason the square
 of #bj and the square of #ag is        
adopted as a base4    ,with the aid of  

the above calculations a person can go  
to any cutter1  obtain from him any     
graduated scale1 and with it cut a      
garment before he  knows the size       
thereof4 ,or he can select for himself a
 scale from any  set for a certain size 
by simply finding a scale whose #bj     
units will  correspond with the size4   
,should the scales contain too large or 
too  small units1 they may be multiplied
 or divided1 and a new unit found by    
doubling or halving the units1 or by    
dividing or multiplying them with  any  
number1 to gain the desired result4     
,the conundrum is this3 ,to use an      
unknown square or an unknown circle to  
cut a garment1 and produce the smaller  
sizes large enough and the larger  ones 
small enough for all practical purposes4
    ,illustration          ,illustration
          ,,chips ,,and ,,whetstones4   
,a sweep from the point of the angles1  
as at #hj1 will make a horizontal  line 
when the pants are on and inflated with 
the body4 ,no squaring from  any one    

line will make it perfectly horizontal  
all around4 ,the sweeps  from the points
 of the angles will always be together  
when the pants are  correctly sewed up  
and flat upon the table4 ,said sweeps   
will not fit  together in all positions1
 if made from any other points1 which   
proves  their common center2 and they   
will always be found reliable for the   
connection of the leg seams when the    
front is cut small and the back  wide1  
and for squaring the bottom of pants4   
,never change the angle of seven and a  
half degrees as a base4    ,never try to
 find the perpendicular and horizontal  
lines on a pants1  except for a person  
who always stands perfectly still2 and  
as no such  persons are found1 said     
lines are therefore useless4            
,allowance in the curve of the back of a
 pants cannot spread like the  front1   
but will hang there like a bag1 and may 
even cut the seat4    ,extra width      
should never be allowed in the back of  
the crotch2 better  allow it over the   

hip4 ,allowing extra width in the crotch
 is just like  allowing extra cloth on  
the front of the armhole1--it makes the 
whole  smaller4    ,the trick in        
altering any garment is to first        
ascertain what will make it  worse1 and 
then make the contrary alteration4      
,example3 ,if a pants cuts in  the seat 
pinch the top of the sides together1    
which will make it worse1  then put a   
wedge in the top of the side seam1 and  
reduce again in the  center of back4    
,if you find your pants too large or too
 small do not change the drafts1  but   
take the measure smaller or larger1 as  
the case may be4 ,take the seat  measure
 close1 like measuring a barrel1 and    
have no slack4    ,your customer's pants
 waist must be as large as what he      
measures when  he is in a sitting       
position4 ,a man's waist in that        
attitude may expand  anywhere from one  
to five inches4    ,a waist-band made   
according to the old teachings1 as      
three-fourths inches  more than half    

measures1 will not stand the test1 and  
is a delusion4    ,if a customer tells  
you to make his clothing very large1 he 
means that it  should not be too small4 
,if he instructs you to make it tight1  
he means  that he wants it not too      
large4 ,either will be returned if it   
does not  come up to his actual wants4  
,if a customer gives you a thousand and 
one directions1 take them all  in1 study
 what he wants1 or what he really needs1
 make his garment  accordingly1 and he  
will usually turn out as a customer not 
hard to  please4 ,but if he tells you   
that you are the tailor2 that you know  
best what he wants2 that you shall make 
it according to your judgment1  do not  
think that he will take anything1 for he
 will usually turn out to  be a very    
particular customer1 who expects you to 
know your business4    ,remember that   
old men require a larger seat--that is1 
a larger back  slope in their pants2    
because1 in aged persons1 the seat      
actually caves  downward1 hence old     

persons grow shorter4    ,give boys     
considerable straddle in their pants1   
not only for comfort1 but  for the more 
important reason that boys should never 
have any pressure  on their sexual      
organ4 ,thousands of young men go to    
their early graves  because some silly  
tailor made their pants too tight1 by   
which they  learned to abuse themselves4
    ,better talk half an hour with your 
customer after he has been measured1  in
 order to observe his build1 rather than
 to spend half a day in  altering       
afterwards4    ,do not consider yourself
 too expert a cutter not to try on the  
coat you  cut4 ,no cutter is infallible4
 ,but trying on a coat without sleeves  
will  be found 8no good40    ,your trade
 will depend upon how you please your   
customers1 not how  cheaply you work4   
,the best customer is he who trusts you1
 and the worst is he whom you  trust4   
,as long as your customer believes that 
no one else can fit him1 you will  have 
his patronage4    ,a cash customer's    

trade is lost as soon as you trust him4 
,trust no man for his wedding suit1 even
 if you ever do get your pay2 you  will 
earn it over again by 8dunning0 him4    
,the best way to collect bad debts1 is  
never to scatter any around you4    ,a  
large funeral is had only by those who  
collect their dues4    ,you may feel    
happier if you give a poor man a suit of
 clothing4 ,try it4    ,you will surely 
be angry if you trust a so-called       
8gentleman0 and get  caught--better not 
try it2 but put your trust in ,god4     
,do not try to alter a faulty waist by  
changing the neck of a coat1 or  vice   
versa4 ,you will always fail4    ,do not
 try to convince your customer that you 
have sold him a suit too  cheap4 ,you   
will lose him1 for he expects that you  
will endeavor to make  it up if he gives
 you another chance1 and therefore will 
buy the next  suit elsewhere4    ,if an 
old customer begins to grumble1 try to  
pacify him1 but if you  cannot1 better  
let him go for a time2 he will be so    

much better when he  returns4    ,a new 
customer may be 8cranky0 when he starts 
in with you1 but if you  treat him right
 he may turn out to be your best one4   
,to make a nice edge on worsted goods   
without binding1 work the underside     
with a button-hole stitch and fill the  
edge like broadcloth4 ,it takes a  few  
hours extra work to make such an edge   
for a coat1 but it saves the  binding1  
and it makes a neat job for anyone who  
does not want binding  on the edges of  
his garments4 ,reasonable stretching of 
the edges of a  button-hole1 while      
making1 is better than drawing the edges
 together4    ,cords to work            
button-holes over should be made by     
twisting three or four  fine threads of 
silk together1 and doubling it and      
letting that twist  together again4     
,this will make a strong cord1 which    
will not fade like  gimp or linen       
thread4    ,corded pockets on ravelly   
material should be sewed double1 not one
 seam  on top of the other1 but one     

alongside of the other4    ,next to     
natural gas1 gasoline is the cheapest   
and the most convenient  fuel for       
heating irons in the hot season4        
,gasoline will loosen and  destroy all  
gum at the pants bottom1 or wherever it 
is used4 ,gasoline is  the best article 
to clean straw goods1 if used with a    
brush1 and it is  the best and cheapest 
article to remove grease1 or any spots  
from cloth4  ,to remove fresh paint     
spots from cloth1 soak the paint with   
some kind of  oil1 common coal oil will 
do1 until the paint becomes loose and   
soft2  then wash out with soap and      
water4 ,this will not injure the cloth1 
nor  will it require any scraping       
whereby the nape or surface of the cloth
 is  made threadbare4    ,guarantee     
nothing but the fit and good sewing2 all
 other guarantees  are worthless to     
either party4 ,how can you guarantee the
 color of any  material when you know   
that rain and sun and time will change  
even the  color of a live animal8       

,guarantee the color only so far as to  
be as good  as any other of that kind1  
or as far as you know1 and your customer
 will  always be satisfied with you if  
not with the color of his garment4      
,pieces of silesia are just as good for 
stays as ,holland linen is2  therefore  
cut your sleeve lining or your vest     
lining out of the whole  cloth4    ,as a
 general rule1 garments should be made  
up with very little wadding4  ,i have   
made my vests without wadding for years 
and no customer has found  fault4 ,black
 wadding should never be used for vests1
 it soils the lining4    ,some1         
especially young cutters1 may not know  
the following1 but to them  it will be  
worth the price of this book3 ,if a coat
 is too small in the  breast and no     
outlet anywhere1 cut the canvas1 and all
 lining and all  padding through        
downward1 and at the center of the      
breast1 and insert  a wedge of say one  
inch1 after which the outside can be    
stretched  that much1 and the stretching

 will never go back4 ,if the armholes   
are  too small and no outlets1 and the  
breast will become too small if the     
armholes are cut forward1 cut the lining
 and padding through1 under the  arm    
down to the waist1 insert a wedge of say
 one inch and stretch an  artificial    
wedge in the outside until the armhole  
is large enough2 this  works always4 ,it
 may cost a good deal to alter such a   
coat1 but if a coat  is worth altering  
at all it is worth altering right1 and  
it is better to  spend a few dollars for
 alteration than to throw the coat away2
 but you  must be a cutter or a         
bushelman who knows how to do it4    ,to
 find an angle of #ace deg41 go up and  
sidewise equal distances and  strike a  
line as in ,dia4 ,,iv4    ,an angle of  
#ace deg4 is one square1 and one-half   
square divided from  corner to corner4  
,the angle of #abj deg4 consists of two 
points of the circle1 as shown in       
,dias4 ,,xi and ,,xii2 each point is #fj
 deg4    ,the ,equilateral ,triangle    

consists of three equal lines1 each line
 of  which is #fj deg41 like in ,dia4   
,,xii4    ,to find the angle of #ae     
deg41 spread two lines one-fourth of    
their  length1 or #bj in4 long and #e   
in4 wide4    ,to find the angle of #g   
deg41 spread two lines one-eighth of    
their  length1 or #hj in4 long and #aj  
in4 wide4    ,if ,i had known something 
of geometry1 it would have saved me     
years of  labor on this book1 but       
somehow we all must dig for our living1 
and  sometimes our digging is very      
uncertain1 and we may find things which 
we never dug for4 ,such is the ways of  
an ,allwise ,providence1 and it is  a   
blessing1 maybe in disguise1 that we    
must grope in the dark2 but when        
everything around us is dark and        
uncertain1 we should put 8,our trust in 
,god10 and we will be brought from      
8,darkness to ,light10 in due time4     
,a short lecture to young cutters3 8,the
 glory of young men is their  strength1 
and the beauty of old men is their gray 

head40 ,young cutters1  do not spend    
your strength on fast women1 nor do you 
exchange your money  or your beauty for 
strong drink2 you need all of it when   
you are old1 and  all of it you should  
have while young4 ,as a general rule old
 cutters are  useless4 ,you may kick    
against such a fate to your heart's     
content1 but it  will do you no good4   
,the old must decline4 ,as it is not    
natural for young  women to court the   
attention of old men1 so it is not      
natural for young  men to patronize old 
cutters or tailors4 ,merchant tailoring1
 without  young men's patronage1 will1  
and must always be a failure4 ,forget it
 not6  ,forget it not6    ,how to treat 
an apprentice3 ,i commenced in ,march1  
#ahdh1 to learn  tailoring4 ,i worked   
three years for nothing2 my parents     
furnished me with  clothing and         
boarding4 ,there were only two houses   
between my parents  and that of my      
master1 and some of my folks always     
called me when  ready to eat1 and ,i had

 to come back when eating was done2     
there was  no such a thing as an hour of
 rest at any meal4 ,the first two years 
of  my apprenticeship were1 ,i believe1 
worse than the lot of any slave4 ,in    
summer time ,i had to come to work at   
least at five in the morning1 and  after
 about one and one-half hours work1 ,i  
had to get breakfast1 and thus  ,i kept 
on until dark1 which was near nine in   
that latitude and in the  longest days4 
,in fall and winter ,i had to be there  
at six in the morning  and keep up till 
nine in the evening1 and three or four  
weeks before any  holiday ,i had to work
 till midnight and all day ,sunday4 ,for
 all this ,i  do not remember to have   
received more than 8zwei groshen0 as    
spending  money1 during the first two   
years4 ,but the master worked at the    
same  rate1 and in the spring of #ahej  
he died of consumption4 ,after that the 
widow carried on the business1 and a new
 foreman1 ,mr4 ,geo4 ,hase1 treated  me 
more human4 ,as a general thing1 he     

would not let me work over twelve  hours
 a day1 and every now and then he gave  
me a few 8groshen0 for  spending money1 
and the ,lord has blessed him with a    
long life1 and so far  as ,i know he is 
still living in ,crawford ,co41 ,o41 and
 well and hearty1  and as an ex-soldier1
 draws a good pension from 8,uncle      
,sam40 ,but ,i must  return to my first 
two years serfdom4 ,i had to sew all the
 seams2 ,i was  nothing but a sewing    
machine1 and after one year's slavery ,i
 could sew  like lightning and that was 
all that ,i had learned during that     
time4 ,i  was constantly driven to sew  
faster1 in order that others might go   
ahead  with their work1 and in my misery
 to escape from such a 8hell-hole10  ,i 
conceived this wish3 ,if ,i could       
contrive something by which means ,i    
could make stitches as fast as ,i could 
count1 ,i should not care if ,i had  to 
give 8,old ,harry0 a deed for myself1   
for all time to come4 ,boys may  have   
ideas1 too1 and this was one of them4   

,at that time ,i had no idea  that that 
same thing was just then completed in   
,america1 and that1 too1  without the   
help of the devil4 ,well1 after ,i came 
to ,america in #aheb and  found that    
just then sewing machines were          
completed1 and that they sewed  even    
faster than ,i could count1 ,i was very 
glad that ,i was fortunate  enough not  
to be the inventor of one1 though there 
were millions in it4 ,i  would always   
consider that ,old ,harry would appear  
and prove a just claim  against me4 ,i  
started this point to tell how to treat 
a boy1 but ,i should  have said3 8,how  
not to treat him40 ,but ,i must start in
 again4 ,during  the last fifteen years 
,i have instructed seven boys1 and ,i   
have found  that boys of sixteen to     
seventeen years of age are the best to  
instruct4  ,such boys are able to work1 
while younger ones are too tender to be 
kept  constantly at work1 and older ones
 soon think themselves too smart1 or    
too big to obey1 but even if they are   

obedient1 they are naturally harder  to 
instruct1 especially when they commence 
running after the girls4 ,there  are    
exceptions1 however1 and ,i would sooner
 instruct an intelligent boy  of twenty 
years1 if ,i were satisfied that his    
mind was made up to learn4  ,take only  
healthy1 intelligent boys1 who went to  
school1 and are willing  to work4 ,i    
have rejected several boys whose parents
 came to me saying3  8,he is not fit for
 much1 but he is good enough for a      
tailor10 or1  8he is lying around on the
 street1 and we want him to go to the   
tailor  shop1 so he learns to do        
something10 etc4 ,well1 as long as a boy
 is  fit to be a tailor1 well and good1 
he needs no other qualification1 but    
the qualifications to become a good     
tailor are just as various as that  of a
 lawyer1 or a doctor1 or a preacher4 ,if
 a boy is not brought up to  work1 but  
has been loafing most of the time1 ,i   
would not risk him as an  apprentice4   
,after all other things are considered1 

and the apprentice  is to be taken1 make
 as good a bargain with him or his      
parents1 as you  can4 ,get him as cheap 
as you can2 tell him that tailoring is  
all work1  with not much fun in it1 and 
make him work regular hours1 and any boy
  can stand ten hours work4 ,give him to
 understand that he is not to be  a     
slave1 though he must work1 and if he   
pays attention to the work and  learns  
fast1 and does what can reasonably be   
expected1 give him a word  of praise and
 a quarter or half a dollar weekly for  
his special use1  and when a show comes 
around1 or something special goes on1   
give him a  ticket and a holiday and you
 will have the good will of the boy1 and
  that will repay you for any liberality
 you may bestow upon him4 ,my way  of   
instructing boys was this3 ,to learn to 
sew a back-stitch by hand1 to  fell on  
patches1 to get acquainted with the     
sewing machine1 to clean1 oil  and      
operate it1 on straight seams first4    
,next teach him to baste up the  sleeves

 and to make the sleeves on common coats
 if any such are made4  ,teach him to   
make inside coat pockets1 hip pockets in
 pants if it can  be done1 then         
gradually show him how to make a pocket 
for the outside  of a coat1 teach him to
 baste and to pad the canvass and       
padding over  the breast4 ,show him how 
it is to be done1 and why it is to be   
done so1  and not otherwise4 ,if he     
makes anything wrong1 explain it again1 
and  again4 ,never scold and call hard  
names1 and if you say some harsh words  
to him1 speak that much more pleasant to
 him a few minutes later4 ,make  him    
understand that you can smile over one  
of his mistakes and that he  must not   
hide them1 and that he will make        
mistakes as long as he works at         
tailoring1 and that all tailors are in  
the same condition and therefore  must  
watch themselves4 ,a boy with a sensible
 instructor can learn the  above in six 
months1 and then he is worth something1 
and within one year  from the start a   

boy can learn to make a fair sack coat1 
and in another  year he ought to be able
 to make a tolerable good coat1 pants   
and vest4  ,boys should be taught to    
make pants and vests besides making     
coats1  in order that they may be able  
to instruct others1 should occasion     
require4 ,as soon as a boy is able to   
handle a needle1 he should be set  to   
work1 to spend any time he may have to  
spare1 in making button holes1  which   
may be just as well done1 in the        
beginning as in the end4 ,let boys  work
 button holes in patches1 and in a few  
weeks they may be able to make  button  
holes in the flys of pants1 and by the  
end of two years they are  able to make 
a good button hole4    ,it is also a    
good idea for boys to become acquainted 
with cutting  garments as soon as       
possible4 ,they will learn faster1      
because they have  more interest in     
tailoring1 and are stimulated by the    
hope of becoming  cutters in due time2  
and even if they never become cutters1  

they will  be so much better tailors if 
they know how to cut4 ,it is true not   
all  good tailors will make good        
cutters1 and vice versa1 but 8cutting0  
is  considered a higher degree of       
tailoring1 and every tailor ought to    
know  something about the cutting and   
the fitting of the garments he makes4   
,from the 8,,boston ,,transcript03--    
,,the ,,tailor4        ,the tailor is a 
very worthy person1 notwithstanding his 
occupation1 like that of the enemy of   
mankind1 is to sew tears4        ,you   
can hardly call him a person1 as it     
takes nine of him to      make a man4   
,therefore when anybody asks you if a   
tailor is a      man1 you must answer1  
,nein4 ,a tailor1 in fact1 is but       
one-ninth      of a man1 a vulgar       
fraction4 ,this makes him a little man1 
or      a manikin1 and therefore to man 
akin4 ,hence1 for convenience      sake1
 ,i will call him a man4        ,most   
men reap what they sow1 but the tailor  
reverses the      process and sews what 

he rips4 ,he is generally kept hard at  
work1 as his business is most of the    
time pressing4 ,sometimes      he is    
quite poor1 but need never go hungry1 as
 he always has a      goose1 and finds  
no difficulty in getting all the cabbage
 he      wants4        ,some people     
complain of the tailor because he is    
generally      behind time with their   
garments2 but the tailor doesn't care   
to sell clothes on time1 and in fact he 
suits most of his      customers4       
,many mean things are quoted against the
 tailor1 but he gets      even by       
coating those who talk about him4 ,no   
matter how he      seems in society1 a  
good tailor always seams when about his 
work4        ,there is one thing very   
strange about the tailor4 ,although the 
pantaloons he turns out are constructed 
on correct principles1      he makes    
them all cross-legged4 ,like other men  
he pants for      renown1 but is mainly 
concerned for the renown of his pants4  
,if      you say ought against his      

trousers1 ,i trow1 sirs1 he will give   
you fits4 ,no matter how he may wear    
with others1 the tailor      tries to   
make others wear well4 ,if he trusts you
 for your      breeches1 do not repay   
his kindness by breaches of trust4      
,he cuts his cloth economically1 and yet
 much of it goes to      waist4         
,the tailor is as good as man in        
general1 but ,i never knew but      one 
,general ,taylor who achieved especial  
distinction4        ,some people object 
to the tailor on account of his bill2   
but it      must be admitted that a     
little bill is beak coming4        ,the 
tailor is a great student of human      
nature4 ,he takes the      measure of   
every one of his customers4 ,of this you
 may surely      speak4 ,the tailor is  
full of pluck4 ,i have seen him collar a
      man twice as big as himself1 and  
he did it coolly and without            
choler4        ,the good tailor never   
slops over1 though he puts in much time 
over slop work4 ,the tailor cuts to     

order and orders to cut4        ,one    
thing must be said in his dispraise4 ,he
 is the most      inveterate fellow to  
buttonhole a man you ever saw4 ,another 
thing3 ,notwithstanding almost everybody
 cares more about the      outside than 
the inside of his coat1 the tailor will 
make the      inside more lasting than  
the outside4        ,he makes custom    
work and will work for your custom4 ,too
 often      when his work is done he has
 to dun his customer for the pay4       
,the tailor owes his living to sin1 for 
through sin came cloth2      but though 
one of the cloth1 the tailor is not a   
clergyman1 who      also1 by the way1   
gets his living through sin4            
,address him at the old stand1 and a    
dress he will make you4      ,from the  
8,,american ,,tailor40                  
,,blue ,,monday4        ,the cutter who 
is afraid of ,monday is as miserable as 
his      deadliest enemy could wish4    
,saturday the coats which he has        
seen tried on were all more or less     

faulty4 ,one was too large1      another
 too small2 one kicked at the waist1    
another was too      large at blade2 one
 creased through the shoulder1 another  
fell      away from the neck2 one sawed 
the ears and another would not          
cover the collar button of the shirt4   
,he goes to bed ,saturday      wondering
 if the boss has made up his mind to    
give him ,hail      ,columbia or the    
grand bounce4 ,he awakes ,sunday1       
nervous and      fidgety1 and feels that
 he would like to have some one die     
suddenly and leave him a fortune so that
 he could run away      and hide his    
misery4 ,at noon he thinks he may1 after
 all1      come out all right4 ,at night
 he wonders how many suits will         
come back on the morrow1 and when he    
sleeps he dreams of      processions of 
angry men walking over him with misfit  
garments1      and a disgusted employer 
trying to persuade him that he is      a
 complicated idiot4 ,monday morning he  
goes to the shop      reluctantly1      

smiles with a sickly assumption of      
confidence1      shakes and trembles as 
he says 8,good morning10 and wants to   
perform the knot hole act as the first  
bundle of clothing is      returned4 ,it
 is all right to            8,pity the  
sorrows of a poor old man10        but  
when it comes to downright agony1 we are
 of the opinion      that the cutter who
 is afraid of ,monday can discount the  
8poor      old man0 and is entitled to  
unlimited commiseration4 ,he is         
miserable beyond imagination1 crushed1  
chronically1 into mental      jelly1 and
 rendered abject and ridiculous by the  
haunting fear      of returning bundles4
            ,the awful terrors of each  
,monday's morn1          ,make the poor 
cutter wish he were not born4           
,nov4 #bfth1 #ahia1 #d p4 m4    ,this is
 ,thanksgiving day and ,i am glad ,i can
 say3 ,this work has been  finished     
to-day1 except corrections which must   
yet be made4 ,this means  that ,i have  
spent most of this legal holiday by     

working on the manuscript  of this book1
 and ,i hope that some of my fellow     
workmen will be benefited  by it4       
,but ,i cannot let this opportunity pass
 without publicly acknowledging the     
guiding hand of an ,allwise ,providence1
 which has been visible to me in  the   
past and in whose power ,i trust4 ,i    
know of no better way to express  my    
feelings at the present hour than to    
repeat the first and last verses  of    
that beautiful ,german hymn which was   
sung in church this morning3        #a4 
,lobe der ,herren o meine ,seele6       
,ich will ihn loben bis zum ,tod2       
,weil ich noch ,stunden auf ,erden zhle1
        ,will ich lobsingen meinen      
,gott4          ,der ,leib und ,seele   
gegeben hat1        ,werde geprieen frh 
und spt4            ,hallelujah6        
,hallelujah6        #h4 ,rhmet ihr      
,menschen den hohen ,namen        ,de1  
der so groe ,dinge thut6          ,alles
 was ,obem hat ruse ,amen6        ,und  
bringe ,lob mit frohem ,muth4           

,ihr ,kinder ,gottes1 lobt und preis't  
,vater und ,sohn und heil'gen ,geist4   
,hallelujah6 ,hallelujah6               
,aug4 #aeth1 #ahib4      ,,forty ,,years
 ,,of ,,grace4    ,on the #aeth day of  
,august1 #aheb1 ,i was a passenger on a 
sailing ship  nearly in the middle of   
the ,atlantic ocean4 ,on that night we  
had a storm  of a pretty good size1 and 
the way our old ship was rocking us1 it 
seemed to me that ,i would never see    
daylight again4 ,well1 that condition   
of things will learn a poor sinner to   
pray1 and learned me to pray at  least  
for that night1 and in my prayer of that
 awful night ,i promised  the ,lord1    
that if he would deliver me from the    
,perils and ,dangers of  that night1 ,i 
would always keep the #aeth day of      
,august as a day to offer  especial     
thanks to ,him as my ,deliverer4 ,well  
the ,lord seems to have  heard my prayer
 and that storm passed off and          
now--forty years after that  time1 ,i am
 able to record it in the pages of this 

book4 ,i feel as though  ,i cannot close
 this work unless ,i give at least one  
page of it to the  praise of ,him from  
whom all blessings flow1 and who is able
 to deliver us  from all dangers4       
,but ,i must acknowledge that ,i have   
not fulfilled the promise of the  night 
of the #aeth of ,august1 #aheb1 at least
 not in that sense in which ,i  made it1
 though ,i have remembered it every year
 but one1 when it slipped  my mind until
 a few days after4 ,some of my readers  
may say that it is  silly to write the  
above in this book1 but ,i think any    
place is good  enough to give thanks and
 praise to the ,lord4                   
,illustration          ,,supplement4    
,the manuscript for this work has been  
closed1 but ,i feel that ,i must  write 
a few things more1 for ,i intend to     
record all that ,i know1 at  least all  
that which ,i remember and is worth     
knowing1 and all that which  ,i may have
 learned since the manuscript is closed4
 ,i have come to the  conclusion that it

 would be better to give a frock coat   
diagram with no  lap at the front waist 
seam1 and for this reason ,i have made  
,dia4 ,i,ia1  and in order to make the  
most of it1 ,i have made it to fit the  
following  forms3    ,i4 ,for a medium  
long neck1    ,,ii4 ,for a medium full  
waist1    ,,iii4 ,for a medium erect    
position1    ,,iv4 ,for a medium short  
form1    and to the following measure3  
,breast #cg1 waist #cg1 hip #ch1 length 
of  waist #ah1 length of coat #cf1      
length of legs #cj inches4    ,dia4     
,i,ia is a trifle wider at the shoulders
 than ,dia4 ,,ii1 which is seen  by the 
#i at #fj deg41 and by the width of the 
back at the armhole1 which  is  number  
more1 and which requires the back sleeve
 seam  shorter than  ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,the   
neck is for a form with  in4 more length
 than the normal  form1 hence the top of
 back is placed at #b1 and the spring   
between the  shoulder seam is 1 which   
requires the collar to be sewed on loose
 over  the side of the neck4 ,the       

armhole is in all respects the same1 and
 the  neck is changed from the top of   
arm upward4    ,dia4 ,i,ia shows a full 
waist which is shown by the  gore in the
 underarm  gore at the waist1 and in the
 larger width in the front of waist4    
,the  roll is shorter than on ,dia4     
,,ii4 ,it buttons three buttons but may 
easily  be made longer4 ,the heighth of 
back above lines #i and #ac is only #ad1
  being  shorter over the blade1 because
 most all such forms are more or  less  
erect forms4 ,in place of a lap of #a   
in4 in front the waist seam has  a gore 
of #a in4 behind1 and the run of that   
seam may be made to suit  fancy or      
style4 ,in cutting1 the top of sidepiece
 should be run out into  the armhole    
until it is long enough for the back    
from the nicks upward1  as shown on     
,dia4 ,,iib4    ,illustration3 ,,dia4   
,,iia4      ,,dia4 ,,iib4    ,i also add
 another diagram1 ,,iib1 which          
illustrates the erect and slender       
form--hollow back--full breast--square  

shoulders--forms which are mostly hard  
to fit4 ,it is on the same square as    
,dia4 ,,ii and ,i,ia1 but the difference
  is shown between the back and the side
 piece4 ,the height of back is #ad  and 
the front and back is even at the neck  
for the square shoulder4    ,now1 it    
will be seen how closely ,dia4 ,,ii1    
,i,ia and ,,iib are connected1 and  yet 
how far they are from fitting the same  
form4 ,with the help of these  three    
diagrams it seems to me any cutter      
should have easy sailing in  fitting his
 customers4 ,there is the tall1 slim    
person to be fitted by  ,dia4 ,,ii and  
,,iib1 and the short form and the full  
waist by ,dia4 ,i,ia1 and  any of the   
other abnormal conditions here shown by 
the three diagrams1  may be taken from  
one of them and placed on the other4    
,often1 the  abnormal conditions may be 
just contrary to the illustration4      
,illustration3 ,,dia4 ,,iib4      ,,dia4
 ,,viii ,b4    ,this is produced here as
 a fine seamer sack4 ,it can be used as 

a three  seamer by taking a trifle more 
out between the back and side4 ,for a   
short  roll allow #a inch in front of   
point #i only1 and reduce the gore under
 the  lapel to about  inch4 ,the back is
 hollowed out  at the waist1 and the    
center at the bottom is not thrown      
outside of the base4    ,in all other   
respects it is the offspring of ,dia4   
,,viii1 and may be a  trifle better4 ,in
 practical cutting it will be found that
 ,dia4 ,,viii is  more toward the erect 
form1 because of its back being thrown  
outside of  the base at the seat4       
,dia4 ,,viii ,b1 serves another purpose 
and this is the position of the one     
back on the square of #bj1 in which     
position the back may be made smaller   
or wider without injuring the balance of
 the lengths above #ac4 ,at the  neck   
the shoulder laps  for the normal form4 
,but it illustrates another point4 ,on  
,dia4 ,,iii there will be seen an       
opening in the under arm seam running up
 in the arm hole1 and which  opening is 

balanced for the three-seam sack by     
reducing that amount  between the back  
and side seam4 ,but the fifth seam on   
,dia4 ,,viiib1  balances that part and  
the back and the side are cut on one    
line1 from  line #aa up4 ,it gives a    
real good shape1 and the whole diagram  
may be  accepted as good1 but the       
measure must be taken close4 ,for the   
last year  ,i have closely watched the  
effects of longer or shorter backs1 and 
,i must  here repeat that #ae for a     
frock and #ad for a vest1 and #ac for a 
sack are  good averages4 ,further3 ,that
 a more erect form may easily have      
less1  and a more forward1 leaning form 
more1 and a form like the third form  in
 8,models0 may have  to  more length4   
,but the arm holes must remain the same1
 and whatever the back is made  longer1 
must be reduced again in the length at  
the back armhole4 ,on a  frock coat this
 can easily be done by reducing said    
length between the  back and side piece1
 because of the curved seam2 but on a   

sack1 with its  straight side seam1 such
 reduction would not take up length1 but
 width1  and such extra length may be   
taken out of the shoulder seam1         
providing  the back notch for the sleeve
 is thrown that much further down4      
,again1 if the back is to be shortened  
the contrary alteration must be         
observed1 but  to  less back1 may be the
 extreme amount for an erect  form1     
while a stooping form may require  for  
the extreme4 ,stretching the  center of 
the back in length about #d inches      
sidewise and at the point of  the blade1
 will have the same effect1 providing   
the coat maker will do  it1 or is       
instructed to do it4    ,a hot iron in  
the hands of a skillful tailor is a     
mighty factor toward  making a garment  
what it ought to be4    ,illustration3  
,,dia4 ,,viii4 ,b4      ,,dia4 ,,xxiv4  
,is also submitted as an after thought4 
,i doubt if any pants can be made  which
 fit better than this did on the person 
it was made for4 ,it is a  broad fall   

with the waist band cut on4 ,the diagram
 itself shows the  measure of the man it
 was made for4 ,the space between the   
top of the  8fall0 and the top of the   
8fall piece0 should never be less than  
#a  inches and may be made #b inches4   
,the 8fall0 should be cut wide for small
  waisted men1 and narrow for large     
waists1 and each cutter must be able to 
judge for himself how wide each should  
be1 and again1 where the pockets  are to
 be made and where the button holes     
should be made1 in order that  pockets  
and buttons do not interfere with each  
other4    ,illustration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxiv4 
,,dia4 ,,xxv4    ,represents a boy's    
knee pants of #bi seat measure1 and it  
will prove to be  good4 ,i have made the
 back and front evenly wide at the      
bottom1 but there  is no law against    
making the fore part  smaller on each   
side1 and the  back that much wider4    
,add the waist band for suspenders4 ,but
 if it is cut  for a smaller size and   
worn on a waist1 the #aj numbers are    

long enough  for the waist4             
,illustration3 ,,dia4 ,,xxv4            
,,tight ,,pants4    ,in a few years     
pants will again be worn smaller at the 
knee1 and ,dia4 ,,xix  must be reduced  
at the knee and at the thigh4 ,it is    
hard to tell what the  bottoms will be  
then1 but for all that the center of    
foot and heel is  here for a guide4     
,time will show if pants will then be   
made with large  spring bottoms or      
whether they will be made again as they 
were a few  years ago1 hardly large     
enough for the leg to pass through4 ,but
 ,i will  say this4 ,dia4 ,,xix will fit
 at the seat and upward for any style4  
,at the  fork it may be reduced one seam
 on the forepart only1 and at the side  
of  thigh it may be reduced one seam on 
each back and on each front1 for a      
close fit4    ,at the side of the knee  
the angle of #aj deg4 may be hollowed   
out  to   on each back and on each      
front1 or so much as the inward curve of
 side  of the knee will warrant4 ,at the

 inside of the knee allow  to  on the   
double to the angle of #aj deg41 all of 
which will produce a knee of about  #ah 
inches made up1 and that will be pretty 
close for a seat of #ch4 ,again1  if    
size #ch is reproduced for a size #ce1  
the knee will be about #ah inches  made 
up1 and if from this is taken away  inch
 on each forepart and on  each back at  
the side of the knee to represent the   
hollow of the leg  there1 and which is  
not shown in the present style1 the knee
 will make up  #ag inches which again is
 a fair width for a narrow leg for size 
#ce4    ,another good way to produce a  
close fitting knee is this3 ,from the   
center line of the angle of #aj deg4    
measure both ways and give on the       
double inseam  inches more than on the  
double outside1 and this rule  will hold
 good on all forms1 because the center  
of the angle of #aj  degrees is the     
center for the pants leg1 but the inside
 of the leg is  straight while the      
outside is hollowed out about  inches1  

and that  hollow must be imitated in    
order to make a close fit of the pants4 
,,dia4 ,,xxvi4    ,but in order to show 
the correct idea of a close fitting     
pants1 ,i have  added ,dia4 ,,xxvi to   
the supplement4 ,it is for a form which 
will go with  ,dia4 ,,ii4 ,seat size    
#ce1 waist made up #cc1 knee and bottom 
#ag in41 length  of legs #cb in4 ,it may
 be called old style now1 but it will be
 in style  at the close of the          
,nineteenth century1 or certainly at the
 dawn of the  ,twentieth century4       
,for spring bottoms allow on each side  
of the back1 starting about #e in4      
above the bottom1 and take away from the
 bottom of the forepart an equal  amount
 on each side1 or so much until the     
forepart is reduced to less  than #g in4
 ,dia4 ,,xxvi is marked 8#g in4 above   
bottom0 for the reason that  the width  
of the pants1 about #g in4 above the    
bottom1 must be the same1  no matter if 
the legs are #cj or #ce in4 long4 ,the  
seams are notched from  a sweep having  

its pivot at point #hj1 which of course 
is cut off on this  diagram4 ,sweeping  
each side separately from the bottom of 
the pants and  on each line of the angle
 of #aj deg4 will result in the same    
thing4    ,the diagrams in the whole    
book represent the following seat sizes3
 #bi1  #ce1 #ch1 #ci1 #dj1 #df2 and it  
seems to me that any new beginner should
 be  able to control the different parts
 in the intervening sizes4    ,as to    
coats1 there will be no trouble to cut  
them with the scale and  according to   
instructions4 ,but for pants1 the scale 
can only be relied on  for the crotch or
 fork2 all other points1 such as waist1 
hip1 knee and  bottom1 must be cut      
according to the measure4 ,hence the    
pants diagrams  are given in different  
sizes4 ,the fork as given by the scale  
is large  enough with #d on double cloth
 for the dress side1 but may be made    
with #d4    ,i will again warn a cutter 
against giving more fork for extra      
looseness1  nor to allow behind on top  

of back for extra waist proportion1 but 
to  allow all extra cloth at the side1  
unless it is for a large waist1 when  it
 is to be cut like ,dia4 ,,xx or ,,xxiv4
 ,the top line of the back slope of  #ae
 deg4 is large enough for all forms1 and
 besides it is large enough  to buckle  
up  on each side of the back seam1 and  
which may be cut away  there1 or may be 
cut away in the gore in the middle of   
the back when an  extra close waist is  
to be made4 ,the back slope must remain 
permanent1  and all changes made        
sidewise or forward4    ,i will here add
 two very important points in altering  
pants3 ,pants which  must be cut down   
because they are too large in size can  
always be made  better if they are      
opened in front and cut smaller there   
and down to the  knee4 ,it is true1 it  
may take one hour longer to do it than  
to make the  alteration behind1 but if a
 pants is worth altering1 it is worth   
altering  right4    ,illustration3      
,,dia4 ,,xxvi4    ,about six months ago 

,i thought ,i would try a few pants with
 the fork  points cut  in4 higher1      
leaving all other points the same1 but  
they  turned out to be first-class      
failures4 ,they were too short at the   
bottom1  and fitted only when the legs  
were spread apart several feet1 and in  
which position they were long enough1   
but when the person sat down they       
crawled up to the top of his shoes4     
,from this ,i drew the following        
conclusion3 ,stretching the inseams will
 throw the legs sidewise1 and  will have
 the same effect as cutting the crotch  
higher1 and whenever  pants work that   
way1 the fork points should be cut down 
about  inch1  but without disturbing the
 point in front of line #h any more than
 can  be helped1 but the fork width must
 be re-established4 ,this may make the  
bottom short1 and requires the legs to  
be let out below1 but it will  establish
 a better fit4 ,i will here again point 
out the fact1 that the  inseam stretches
 more easily than the outside1 and      

cutters must provide  for such defects1 
from whatever cause they may originate4 
,i cannot specify amounts1 but can only 
point out the way of alteration1  either
 after the pants are made or before they
 are cut1 and will only  add3 ,cutting  
the fork  inch down will cause the leg  
to be thrown #a  inch more toward the   
center of the leg1 and  inch of         
alteration may be  considered the       
extreme alteration for any pants cut    
according to this  work4 ,if a pattern  
is cut for pants with plenty notches at 
the seams1 a  cutter can soon find out  
whether the seams have been stretched1  
and how  much4    ,it pays to cut all   
garments over patterns4      ,,dia4 ,,iv
 ,a4    ,i also add a double-breasted   
vest4 ,knowing what trouble ,i have had 
myself  in getting the front of such a  
vest to fit1 ,i came to the conclusion  
that this work is not complete without  
such a diagram1 and ,dia4 ,,iv ,a is    
presented4 ,it has the neck and the     
shoulders on the same principle points  

as ,dia4 ,,iv1 and it only remains for  
me to say a few words about several     
points4 ,at the bottom of the armhole   
the back is placed at point #aa1 and  is
  of a number longer than in ,dia4 ,,iv1
 but that  extra length of back  should 
be given to a double-breasted vest      
because the long and open front  can    
settle better to its place4 ,on account 
of the large curve in front1  the neck  
band is about  inch higher behind1 thus 
giving less spring1 and  for this reason
 the side of the neck should be pretty  
well stretched4 ,the  diagram itself    
furnishes no spring outside of the angle
 of #ace deg41 but   may be given and   
the back sewed on smooth4    ,the gore  
under the collar should be cut for all  
such vests1 but that gore  should hardly
 be more than the two seams4 ,if the    
seam is drawn together a  cut of  is    
plenty1 providing the neck is not       
stretched again by sewing  the collar   
on4 ,the bottom of front is represented 
with a good sized 8lap  over10 and if   

less is desired take  inch off at the   
front edge and set  the buttons  inch   
forward4 ,the buttons are #b numbers    
backward of the  straight front line4 ,a
 double-breasted vest1 to button up to  
the neck1  must have a large gore under 
the collar as shown in ,dia4 ,,iv ,a1   
for two  straight pieces will never fit 
the chest of a man when they are to be  
lapped over each other from three to    
four inches4 ,for the whole bottom of   
the forepart sweeps from #d99 and the   
lap over will fit4 ,this sweep must     
extend through the whole front angle of 
#ae deg4 and may be swept clear  back to
 the side seam1 as shown in ,dia4 ,,iv  
,a1 but may be sunk down  inch  at the  
side seam1 starting at the plumb base   
line4    ,notch the shoulder from a     
sweep from the side of the back or at a 
point  #d numbers from ,o on the top    
square line4 ,dia4 ,,iv ,a is shown with
 a large  open front and well curved    
out1 but may be cut straighter or       
higher1 or  even lower to suit fancy or 

style4 ,a customer may put up with a    
coat that  shows the corners on each    
side of the bottom of the front1 but he 
will  not wear a double-breasted vest   
with one side longer than the other1 and
  it is astonishing how many such vests 
are found1 especially amongst the  ready
 made clothing4 ,that defect is not     
caused by cheap ready made work1  but it
 is caused by the designer of the       
patterns over which such vests  are cut1
 and for which clothing manufacturers   
usually pay a liberal price4    ,writing
 about ready made clothing brings me to 
another point4 ,coats cut  over ,dia4   
,,ii1 ,,viii ,b and ,x1 will give a     
better average fit and a nicer  shoulder
 and an easier armhole1 than the great  
majority of ready made  clothing can    
boast of1 and the same is true of the   
pants and vests4    ,illustration3      
,,dia4 ,,iv ,a4      ,,dia4 ,,vii ,a4   
,i also give ,dia4 ,,vii ,a1 of which   
,dia4 ,,vii is the parent pattern4 ,this
  ,dia4 ,,vii ,a requires no particular 

description1 except that the back of    
,dia4 ,,vii is swung from point #aj at  
the armhole shoulder seam1 and the      
ordinary spring in the shoulder seam is 
added4 ,in the position of ,dia4  ,,vii 
,a the cutter may easily throw the      
shoulder seam more forward at the       
armhole if he so desires it4 ,the neck  
band must be a straight piece1 as  wide 
as button holes can be worked in1 and   
the neck band must be put on  loose at  
the side of the neck4 ,the width in     
front1 and the depth of the  neck in    
front must be regulated according to the
 coat4 ,the depth of the  front of neck 
is placed at #c1 and is as high as any  
cape may stand1 but  it is easy to cut  
it  lower4 ,a cape may be cut without   
neck band by  allowing say  inches on   
top of top and side of back1 and by     
allowing a   short spring in the        
shoulder seam1 and giving a good stretch
 besides4    ,illustration3 ,dia4 ,,vii 
a4    ,the last illustration ,i present 
is the 8,collar as it ,must be          

,pressed10  the full description of     
which is found in the article on        
8,collars40    ,illustration3 ,,as ,,the
 ,,collar ,,should ,,be ,,pressed       
,kurze ,wiederholung einiger            
,hauptpunkte4    ,die ,einteilung der   
,mastbe ist folgende3      ,das halbe   
,brustma1 oder das halbe ,sitzma zu     
welchem #b ,zoll gerechnet  sind1 fr    
alle ,gren1 werden eingeteilt in #bj    
gleiche ,teile1 so da das  gewhnliche   
,zollma der ,mastab ist1 fr die #ce     
,gre1 ,brust oder ,sitz4  #ag ,zoll ist 
die ,hlfte von #ce und #b ,zoll zu #ag  
,zoll gerechnet macht #bj  ,zoll4       
,die #b ,zoll1 welche zu jedem halben   
,brust1 oder ,sitzmae gerechnet sind1   
machen die kleineren ,gren gro genug1   
und die ,grern klein genug1 fr  alle    
,gren4    ,das ,ma wird ber dasjenige   
,kleidungstck genommen ber welches es   
getragen werden soll4 ,bei ,hosen mu    
natrlich das ,ma ber die ,hose  selbst  
genommen werden1 aber dehalb mu man auch
 das ,ma ganz straff  anziehen1 wie beim

 ,messen eines ,ofenrohrs4    ,das ,ma  
fr die ,hose mu ber den grten ,teil des 
,sitzes genommen  werden1 einerlei ob   
die ,hften oder der ,unterleib grer oder
 kleiner  sind1 als der ,sitz selbst4   
,fr ,hosen ist der so eingeteilte       
,mastab nur vollkommen hinreichend fr   
den ,sitz1 oder den ,schritt1 und die   
,seiten naht1 gegenber des ,sitzes4     
,alle andern ,weiten von der ,taillie   
bis zum ,fue1 men nach dem ,mae         
geschnitten werden4 ,um es aber         
,anfngern leichter zu machen1 sind alle 
,zeichnungen in diesem ,werke von       
verschiedenen ,gren gegeben1 weil die   
,gren von #be und #ej ein ganz anderes  
,verhltni am ,knie verlangen als  die   
,gre von #ce4    ,das ,ma fr ,rcke und  
,westen mu auch eng genommen werden1    
obgleich  nicht so eng1 als fr ,hosen4  
,auch mu das ,brustma den grten ,teil   
des ,schulterblattes einschlieen4 ,fr   
die ,weste ist das ganze ,brustma       
gewnlich #a ,zoll kleiner als fr den    
,rock1 und fr den ,ueberrock  gebrauche 

man jeder ,zeit #b ,zoll mehr als fr den
 ,unterrock4    ,um die verschiedenen   
,winkel1 welche in den #ace deg4        
enthalten sind1 recht  zu bekommen1     
nehme man einfach dia4 ,i4 oder irgend  
ein anderes1 welches  die ,einteilung   
der #ace deg4 zeugt1 und mache die      
,lienien so lang1 wie sie  erforderlich 
sind1 um ein ,muster in voller ,gre zu  
zeichnen4    ,fr ,rcke und ,westen kann 
man sich fr alle ,gren verlassen1       
ausgenommen  fr die ,lngen1 und fr die  
,weiten1 des ,unterleibes4    ,obgleich 
die ,weiten der ,schultern besser mit   
diesen ,mastaben ermittelt  werden      
knnen1 als mit irgend einem andern ,mae1
 oder mit irgend einer  andern          
,berechnung1 so will ich dennoch hier   
erwhnen1 da alle ,gren von  #bc bis #dd 
mit dem ,verhltnie de ,mastabes erzielt 
werden knnen2 aber  wenn man ber #dd    
,brustweite hinauf kommt1 so sollte man 
an dem ,armloche  und derjenigen ,linie1
 welche mit #fj deg4 bezeichnet ist1    
#a-af fr jede  hhere ,nummer abrechen1  

so da ein #ej ,brustma nicht ber #h an  
dieser  ,stelle erhlt1 und der ,rcken   
sollte nicht ber #f ,weite haben am     
punkte  #h1 oder an dem ,centrum des    
,aermels4 ,auch sollte die ,tiefe des   
,armlochs in  demselben ,verhltnie erhht
 werden4 ,whrend das vordere ,armloch an
 der  ,lienie von #de deg4 bleibt1 wird 
dann der vordere ,aermelzwick vielleicht
   bis  hher gestellt4 ,wenn dieses     
beobachtet wird1 so wird die ,schulter  
niemals zu breit werden fr die greren   
,nummern4    ,die ,schultern wachsen    
niemals in ihrer ,breite zu dem         
,verhltni der  grern ,brustweiten4      
,man wird niemals verfehlen den ,aermel 
in das ,armloch zu passen wenn man  dia4
 ,,ii4 ,,vii4 und ,x4 beobachtet4 ,dia4 
,,vii4 zeichnet ein kleines ,armloch    
welches sehr gestreckt werden mu1 whrend
 dia4 ,,ii4 ein greres ,armloch  giebt1 
aber mit demselben ,aermel und daher    
nicht so viel gestreckt werden  braucht4
    ,das ,armloch und der ,aermel von   
dia4 ,x4 sind vollkommen gro genug fr   

einen ,ueberzieher4 ,fr das ,einnhen des
 ,aermels1 beobachte man genau die      
,einzwickungen des ,armlochs und des    
,aermels an dia4 ,,ii4    ,dia4 ,,iii4  
,,vii4 ,,viii4 ,,viii4-a ,x4 ,x4a sind  
die ersteren ,platten welche  ich habe  
machen lassen1 whrend ,,ii4 ,,ii4-a4    
,,ii4-,b4 ,,viii4-,b4 die letzten       
,producte meiner ,arbeit sind1 und die  
,armlcher und die ,einzwickungen sind   
eine ,verbesserung4 ,ich schme mich     
nicht zu sagen1 das ich heute mehr  wei1
 als vor einem ,jahre1 und ich hoffe1 da
 ich heute ber ein ,jahr  mehr wei als  
heute4    ,in ,bezug auf ,hosen1 sei    
hier gesagt1 da die ,einteilungen der   
verschiedenen ,zeichnungen vollkommen   
gengen1 um dem ,anfnger sogleich  einen 
bessern ,ueberblick ber die ganze ,hose 
zu geben1 als er es irgend  wo finden   
kann4 ,nur dieses will ich hier noch    
bemerken3 ,der ,schritt fr  die         
8,bekleidende ,seite0 ist gro genug mit 
#d ,nummern1 fr die hlfte  der ,hose1   
doch mgen #d gebraucht werden1 und was  

man an der vorderhose  abbricht1 erlaubt
 man an der ,hinterhose4    ,die        
sogenannte ,abstechung der ,hinterhose  
ist niemals zu verndern1  sondern sollte
 genau nach den ,zeichnungen gemacht    
werden4 ,jedenfalls  sollte niemals     
etwas hinten erlaubt werden fr grere    
,unterleibsweite1  sondern alles was der
 ,bund mehr verlangt1 mu an der ,seite  
und vorn  erlaubt werden4 ,wird der     
obere ,teil der ,hinterhose1 am hintern 
,ende  weiter geschnitten1 so wird das  
,resultat dasselbe sein als wenn man den
  ,schritt kleiner schneidet4 ,es wre   
dasselbe als wenn man ,tuch am vordern  
,armloche erlaubte1 denn je mehr man    
erlaubt1 desto kleiner wird das ,loch4  
,fr eine enge ,taillie kann man noch    
,zoll am obern ,teile der ,hinterhose   
abnehmen1 aber fr eine grere ,weite ist 
das ,gegenteil nicht anzuwenden4    ,das
 halbe ,hosenbein besteht einfach aus   
einen ,winkel von #aj deg4 zu  welchen  
#a am ,schritte 7an der grsten ,seite7  
erlaubt wird1 und am obern  ,ende der   

,vorderhose nach vorn 1 whrend der obere
 ,teil der ,hinterhose #ae  deg4        
abgestochen wird1 wie es in allen       
,zeichnungen zu sehen ist4    ,oben1 an 
der ,seite des ,winkels von #aj deg4 ist
 die ,hose vollstndig4    ,zwischen     
dieser ,seiten ,linie1 und den          
abgestochenen #ae deg4 an dem  hintern  
,teile der ,hinterhose wird das         
,unterleibsma so angelegt da  nach einem
 oder zwei kleinen ,einschnitten1 und   
nach ,abrechnung aller  ,nhte1 die ,hose
 so viel mit als die ,person in         
sitzender ,stellung4  ,der ,unterschied 
in verschiednen ,personen1 im ,stehen   
oder im ,sitzen  mag angenommen werden  
von #a bis #e ,zoll1 nachdem die ,person
 mehr oder  weniger beleibt ist4 ,beim  
,manehmen fr eine ,hose1 sollte dieses  
jedes  ,mal beobachtet werden1 zumal    
wenn das ,unterleibsma gro ist4 ,zu     
diesem  ,zwecke mu das ,ma in sitzender 
,stellung genommen werden1 und es wird  
immer gut sein wenn die obern ,knpfe    
offen sind4 ,sollte der oben            

besprochene ,winkel von #aj deg4 nicht  
gro genug sein fr das ,bundma1  so wird 
nicht nur gar kein ,einschnitt in die   
,hinterhose gemacht1 und  wenn dieses   
nicht ausreicht1 so wird das fehlende in
 drei gleiche ,teile  geteilt1 und zwei 
,teile davon werden an der ,seitennaht  
erlaubt und ein  ,teil am vordern ,teile
 der ,vorderhose1 zu dem  welche schon  
erlaubt  waren1 so da1 wenn die ,hosen  
an dem ,leibe sind1 das grere ,bundma   
sich  in drei gleiche ,teile verteilen  
kann1 ein ,teil an der rechten1 ein     
,teil  an der linken ,seite und ein     
,teil vorn4 7,siehe dia4 ,,xx4 und      
,,xxiv47    ,die ,zeichnungen fr die    
,rcke und ,westen sind so genau und in  
so  verschiedenen ,formen gegeben1 da es
 beinahe unmglich ist1 sie nicht zu     
verstehen1 selbst wenn ein ,zuschneider 
kein ,wort von der ,beschreibung  lesen 
knnte4    ,dia4 ,,iv4 wird in jeder     
,hinsicht ein gutes ,muster schneiden fr
 den  normalen ,krperwuchs4 ,die ,weite 
des ,hinterteils am ,halse sollte       

niemals  weniger als #c1 und mag #c     
sein1 und wenn der ,rcken an das        
,halsband1  oder an den ,kragen genht   
wird1 so 8mu0 das ,halsband  bis        
angehalten  werden1 nicht an der ,mitte 
sondern mehr nach der ,seite1 so nahe   
als  mglich nach der ,schulternaht zu4  
,oder noch besser gesagt3 der ,rcken    
sollte soviel gestreckt werden1 und um  
dieses am rechten ,platze zu tun1  mu   
der ,rcken so weit als mglich           
geschnitten werden4 ,sollte man sich    
nicht auf den ,westenmacher verlassen   
knnen so erlaube man lieber  bis   ,zoll
 mehr ,lnge am obern ,ende der          
,schulternaht welches aber zu nichts in 
der ,mitte dieser ,naht aus laufen mu4  
,zweireihige ,westen knnen den ,rcken   
bis  lnger vertragen1 indem  diese ,lnge
 des ,hinterteiles1 dem ,vorderteile    
,gelegenheit giebt1 sich  enger an den  
,hals anzuschlieen4 ,auch sollte jede   
zweireichige ,weste  einen kleinen      
,einschnitt unter dem ,kragen haben1    
oder das ,halsloch sollte  mit einem    

starken ,faden eingezogen werden4       
,eine ,weste1 um weit genug zu sein1    
braucht das halbe ,brustma und #b       
,zoll1 an der ,linie von #i bis #ad     
unter dem ,arme1 und dia4 ,,iv4 hat     
dieses  ,ma fr jede ,weste4 ,die        
,taillie braucht dasselbe ,verhltni1 und
 eben  dasselbe die ,hften4 ,wenn aber  
die ,seitennaht #b bis #b ,zoll offen   
bleibt1  oder wenigstens so weit1 da sie
 den ,hftknochen nicht berhren kann1    
dann braucht man sich nicht viel um     
dieses ,ma zu bekmmern4    ,wenn das    
,unterleibsma im ,verhltni grer wird so 
gebe man von ,anfange  in der ,seite und
 vorne zu gleichen ,teilen zu1 nach den 
aber atwa  ,zoll  in der ,seite erlaubt 
worden sind1 gebe man alles brige vorne 
zu4    ,um einer eingesunkenen ,brust   
eine ,weste anzupassen1 nehme man       
einfach  dia4 ,,iv4 und lege eine ,falte
 in das ,muster von vieleicht  bis #a   
,zoll1  jenachdem der ,brustkasten      
eingesunken ist4 ,diese ,falte mu die   
,form eines  ,v haben1 und mu sich zu   

nichts auslaufen am untern ,ende des    
,armlochs1  ohne das die ,seitennaht    
davon berhrt wird4    ,keine andere     
,vernderung ist nthig1 und ich mchte nur
 noch bemerken1  da die sogenannte      
,schulterspitze nicht durch diese       
,verkrzung des  ,vorderteils aus ihrem  
,geleise geworfen wird1 sondern wie sich
 die ,brust  nach und nach gesenkt hat  
und krzer geworden ist1 so wird auch    
eine  solche ,weste verndert1 wenn das  
,vorderteil verkrzt wird4    ,diese     
,vernderung sollte an allen solchen     
,rcken gemacht werden1 denn es  ist ein 
groer ,irtum1 wenn man glaubt1 da die   
vordere ,schulterspitze  eine           
,vernderung nach der vordern ,brustlinie
 brauche1 wenn sich der ,hals  oder die 
,brust nach vorwrts senkt4 ,ein ,rock1  
oder eine ,weste wird an  den ,hals     
gepat von der ,seite nach hinten und    
ebenso von der ,seite nach  vorne1 und  
wenn sich der ,hals vorwrts oder rckwrts
 biegt1 so bleibt  die ,weite des       
,halslochs dasselbe4    ,es ist         

merkwrdig wie viele ,zuschneider heute  
noch auf der verkehrten  ,meinung sind  
das der sich vorwrts biegende ,hals     
bedinge1 da die  vordere ,schulterspitze
 weiter nach der vorderen ,brustlinie   
gestellt  werden me4 ,um jeden vllig von
 diesem ,irtum zu berzeugen1 lasse man  
einen gut gewachsenen ,man einen gut    
sitzenden ,rock anziehen1 und dann  eine
 vorwrts1 oder auch eine rckwrts        
biegende ,stellung des ,halses          
einnehmen1 und jeder der sehen will1    
kann sich berzeugen1 da der sich        
vorwrts biegende ,hals mehr ,krze der   
,vorderteils verlangt1 nicht aber  mehr 
weite nach dem ,centrum des ,halses4    
,jedes so erlaubte ,teil nach der       
,mitte des ,halses zu1 macht das        
,halsloch kleiner1 der ,hals aber nimmt 
seine ,stellung ein1 und wirft das      
,halsloch nach der ,seite1 und die      
abscheulichen ,falten1 an der ,seite des
 ,halses welche man an so vielen  ,rcken
 und in allen ,himmelsgegenden sieht1   
sind das ,resultat4    ,es ist mit dem  

,halsloche dasselbe1 als mit dem        
,armloch4 ,wenn dieses nicht  weit genug
 vorwrts geschnitten ist1 so wirft der  
,arm den berflssigen  ,teil in ,falten  
ber die ,brust1 und wen dazu beide1     
,hals und ,armloch zu  klein geschnitten
 sind so wird das ,halsloch nach dem    
,arm und das ,armloch  nach dem ,halse  
zu geworfen1 und eine vielen            
,zuschneidern wohlbekannte  ,falte legt 
sich von der ,seite des ,halses bis     
unter das vordere ,armloch4    ,um      
etwaigen nicht englisch lesenden        
deutschen ,zuschneidern den oben        
besprochnen ,irtum genau zu erklren1    
habe ich mich veranlat gesehen  diesen  
,nachtrag in der deutschen ,sprache zu  
geben1 und ich hoffe1 da hin  und da    
,einer1 oder auch ,viele1 daraus ,nutzen
 ziehen werden4    ,den #ba4 ,october   
#ahib1 am ,tage der #djj ,jhrigen       
,columbusfeier4          ,,index4       
,illustration                           
,,page4        ,preface1                
#c        ,scales and ,measures1        

#f        ,pants1                       
#i        ,the ,angle of #g ,deg4 for   
,pants1                                 
#ad        ,general ,remarks about      
,pants1                                 
#bj        ,stripes1                    
#bf        ,coat and ,vest ,bases and   
the ,angle of #ace ,deg41               
#bg        ,squares of #ag and #bj1     
#bi        ,diameter of ,both ,shoulders
 from ,side to ,side1                   
#ca        ,angle of #ae ,deg4 for      
,coats and ,vests1                      
#cc        ,the ,square and the ,circle1
                                        
#cg        ,vests1                      
#ch        ,frock and ,sack ,coats and  
,vests1                                 
#da        ,garment from ,neck to       
,ankle1                                 
#dd        ,combination of ,frock and   
,sack ,coats1                           
#de        ,over ,coats--,frock1 ,three 
and ,five ,seamed ,sacks1               
#dg        ,figures and ,diagrams1      

#eb        ,under ,sack ,coats1         
#hi        ,narrow and ,broad ,backs1   
#ib        ,the ,neckhole and ,shoulder 
,seam1                                  
#ie        ,collars1                    
#ig        ,armhole and ,sleeve1        
#ajj        ,centers of ,back and       
,front1                                 
#ajd        ,the ,waist ,seam and       
,bottom1                                
#aji        ,large ,waists and the      
,normal ,form1                          
#aab        ,stooping ,forms1           
#aad        ,erect ,forms1              
#aag        ,odd ,forms1                
#aba        ,low ,shoulders1            
#abd        ,extra ,square ,shoulders1  
#abf        ,scientific ,calculation in 
the ,square and ,circle1                
#abg        ,chips and ,whetstones1     
#abh        ,see ,chips and ,whetstones 
for the following3 ,stretching      the 
,breast of a ,coat and the              
,armhole4--,to make a thin edge      on 
worsted1 without binding4--,buttonhole  

,cords4--,corded      ,pockets on       
,fringy ,material4--,how to ,treat and  
,instruct an      ,apprentice4--,lecture
 to ,young ,cutters1 ,etc4              
,stretching and ,shrinking3 ,see        
,pants4--,general ,remarks about        
,pants4--,stooping ,forms4--,erect      
,forms4--,center of ,back and ,front4   
,combination of ,coat and ,vest3 ,see   
,dia4 ,,iii and ,,xii4        ,sack with
 ,two ,seams3 ,see ,undersacks4         
,sack without ,downward ,seams          
7,seamless73 ,see ,undersacks4          
,supplement1                            
#acc