,,tibet  ,,nepal                        
,,pa9t$  ,,describ$                     
,,by                           ,a4      
,,h5ry ,,savage ,,l&or                  
,,publi%$ ,,by ,a4  ,c4 ,,black         
,,soho ,,squ>e,,london,w                
,publi%$ ,janu>y #aije                  
,,li/ ,,( ,,illu/rations       #a4      
,yell[ ,lamas ) ,pray]-,:eels           
,frontispiece                           
,,fac+ ,,page   #b4 ,! ,sacr$ ,sw+s (   
,debi ,dhura                            
#af   #c4 ,an ,awkw>d ,mom5t            
#bb   #d4 ,a ,d>amsalla                 
#cj   #e4 ,a ,mom5t ( ,susp5se          
#cd   #f4 ,r$ ,lamas                    
#dd   #g4 ,tibetan ,man sp9n+ ,wool     
#df   #h4 ,a ,nepalese ,%oka            
#dh   #i4 ,a ,nepalese ,lady            
#eb  #aj4 ,a ,nepalese ,woman           
#eh  #aa4 ,a ,typical ,native ( ,n4,w4  
,nepal                                  
#fj  #ab4 ,! ,elfrida ,l&or ,glaci]1    
,nepal                             #fd  
#ac4 ,funnels 9 ! ,mora9e ,ice          

#fh  #ad4 ,! ,armida ,l&or ,glaci]1     
,nepal                              #gj 
#ae4 ,au?or's ,camp1 ,nepal             
#gd  #af4 ,"o ( ! ,lumpa ,peaks & "p ( !
 ,*>les ,l&or       ,glaci]             
#gh  #ag4 ,deep ,crevasses 9 ! ,glaci]  
,ice                             #hj    
#ah4 ,rocks ( all ,sizes roll$ ) great  
,=ce d[n !       ,m\nta9 ,side          
#hb  #ai4 ,! ,bir? ( an ,avalan*e       
#hd  #bj4 ,a ,p]il\s ,cross+            
#hf  #ba4 ,a4 ,h5ry ,savage ,l&or & !   
,f\r ,m5 :o accompani$       him on 8   
,asc5t to #bc1dij feet above ,sea-,level
              #ij  #bb4 ,! ,highe/      
,m\nta9 ,altitude ev] rea*$ by a ,human 
,be+                                    
#ib  #bc4 ,)9 an ,ace ( be+ precipitat$ 
"s #fejj feet on       to ! ,glaci] bel[
                                        
#if  #bd4 ,! ,lumpa ,bas9 & ,*>les ,l&or
 ,glaci]                    #ih  #be4 ,a
 ,balanc+ ,feat                         
#ajj  #bf4 ,mora9e ( ,glaci] & ,m\nta9s1
 %[+ h[ ,cl\ds       =m on ! ,sn[-,l9e  

#ajb  #bg4 ,erect+ ,*okd5s 7,cairns7 on 
! ,savage ,pass                #ajf     
#bh4 ,night-m>*+ 9 a ,/orm              
#ajh  #bi4 ,a ,sea ( ,mi/               
#aaj  #cj4 ,elongat$ ,%ad[s on a ,sea ( 
,mi/                           #aab     
#ca4 ,conc5tric ,circles ( ,radiant     
,beauty =m$ by !       ,sun %9+ ?r\gh   
,mi/                                    
#aad  #cb4 ,cl\ds =m+ on ! ,sn[-,l9e    
#aaf  #cc4 ,au?or's ,t5ts4 ,a ,camp 9   
,nepal                              #aah
  #cd4 ,! ,t9k] ,pass1 ,nepal-,tibet    
#abb  #ce4 ,fly+ ,pray]s & a ,mani ,wall
                               #abd     
#cf4 ,a ,tibetan ,baby ,girl            
#abf  #cg4 ,a ,tibetan ,girl            
#abh  #ch4 ,tibetan ,woman ( ! ,common] 
,class                          #acj    
#ci4 ,tibetan ,lady                     
#acb  #dj4 ,an ,old ,lady & h]          
,pray]-,:eel                            
#acd  #da4 ,tibetan ,dogs               
#acf  #db4 ,a ,tibetan ,camp ( ,black   
,t5ts                                   

#ach  #dc4 ,int]ior ( a ,tibetan ,t5t1  
%[+ ,*urn = mix+       ,tea ) ,butt]    
#adj  #dd4 ,a ,little ,boy le>n+ to     
,pray                                   
#adb  #de4 ,int]ior ( ,tibetan ,temple  
#add  #df4 ,tibetan ,wom5 weav+         
#adf  #dg4 ,tibetan ,wom5 clean+ ,wool  
#adh  #dh4 ,a ,lama ,/&>d-,be>]         
#aej  #di4 ,a ,race = ! ,kata           
#aed  #ej4 ,tibetan ,soldi] at ,t>get   
,practice                           #aef
  #ea4 ,tibetan ,woman us+ a ,sl+ = ?r[+
 ,/ones              #aeh  #eb4 ,tibetan
 ,games4 ,/one-,?r[+                    
#afj  #ec4 ,toboggan+ made easy         
#afb  #ed4 ,tibetan ,dance ) ,sword &   
,kata 7,veil ( ,fri5d%ip7       #afd    
#ee4 ,a ,typical ,tibetan               
#aff  #ef4 ,woman & ,*ild pray+ be=e a  
,%r9e inside a ,t5t        #agj  #eg4   
,tibetan ,boy 9 8 ,gold-embroid]$ ,hat  
#agb  #eh4 ,a ,brig&                    
#agd  #ei4 ,a ,tibetan ,spy 9 !         
,disguise ( a ,begg> approa*+       !   
,au?or's ,camp                          

#agf  #fj4 8,*akzal1 ,*akzal40 ,!       
,tibetan ,salutation                    
#agh  #fa4 ,a ,picturesque ,old ,fell[  
#ahj  #fb4 ,an ,ambidext] ,lama         
,sculptor c>v+ an ,inscription       on 
! ,face ( a ,rock                       
#ahb  #fc4 ,a ,weird ,old ,man ( ,n4,w4 
,nepal                                  
#ahf  #fd4 ,ov] a ,pass 9 a ,com+ ,/orm 
#ahh  #fe4 ,call+ ,two ,foll[]s lo/ 9 ! 
,/orm                      #aij  #ff4   
,tibetan ,goat                          
#aib  #fg4 ,a ,tr\blesome ,desc5t on    
,v]tical ,rocks                         
#aid  #fh4 ,a ,phantom ,lion ( ,gigantic
 ,proportions                       #aih
  #fi4 ,! ,nui ,glaci]                  
#bjb  #gj4 ,asc5t to ! ,nui ,pass       
#bjd  #ga4 ,obs]vations = ,altitude tak5
 "u ,difficulties       on ! ,nui ,pass1
 ,d>ma                                  
#bjh  #gb4 ,a ,%r9e ( ,curi\s ,buddha   
,images                            #bab 
#gc4 ,! ,sacrifice ( a ,yak             
#bbb  #gd4 ,goats c>ry+ ,loads ( ,borax 

#bbd  #ge4 ,yaks & ,ponies convey+ ,wool
 across ! ,fronti]           #bbf       
,,*apt] ,i      8,once y h visit$ ! sn[s
 ( ! ,himahlyas10 said a v5]able  old   
man ( ,kumaon to me1 8y w h to return to
 !m "t aft]  "t until y die4 ,:5 away f 
!m1 all ?r\gh y\r life y w  ev] see !m  
be=e y 9 y\r dreams40    ,well1 t 0 q s2
 & t is :at ev]ybody feels :o has sp5t  
"s "t on ! high] elevations ( t maje/ic 
range ( m\nta9s4  ,to any "o :o         
appreciates ,nature 9 all its gr&eur1 ! 
fasc9ation  is s great t ev]y?+ else 9 !
 way ( sc5]y s9ks into  p]fect          
insignificance by _! side4    ,x is1 to 
my m9d1 r a pity t 9 ,engl& p h n yet   
le>nt to call t range by its prop] &    
poetic "n 8,himahlyas10 by  :i* ! range 
is kn[n all ov] ,asia1 in/ead ( !       
di/ort$  8,himalayas10 :i* has no mean+ 
:atev] except to natives ( ^!  foggy    
little isl&s4 ,! ,am]icans1 ,i am glad  
to say1 :5 !  correct$ pronunciation 0  
po9t$ out1 at once accept$ x1 & x is  n[
 taught 9 all ! s*ools4    ,two ye>s _h 

elaps$ s9ce my fir/ j\rney across       
,tibet1 & ,i 0  /ill suff]+ greatly f ! 
effects ( ! tortures & w\nds  :i* _h be5
 inflict$ ^u me dur+ my captivity 9 !   
,=bidd5  ,l&4 ,nor did banquets &       
receptions & int]view]s1                
autograph-collectors1 etc41 mu* help to 
rebuild my con/itution4 ,9  fact1 :ile 9
 ,london1 in/ead ( improv+ ,i 0 gett+   
weak] &  m ( an invalid e day4    ,9    
doctors ,i h no sup]abundant fai?1 b    
someh[ or o!r felt  t a little *ange f !
 monotony ( a civilis$ exi/5ce1 9 !     
%ape ( *as+ ab\t _! c\ntry "s ( my      
,tibetan fri5ds :o _h  tortur$ me1 might
 possibly be ( "s b5efit to my heal?4 ,&
 if y  take x into y\r head t some?+ w d
 y good1 x is n  unusual t "s sort ( a  
cure results f x4    ,s1 aga9 ,i bundl$ 
my blankets1 my survey+ in/rum5ts1      
sev]al  cam]as1 & hundr$s ( plates1     
provisions1 & pa9t+ mat]ials1  & by !   
fir/ ,p4 & ,o4 /eam] sail$ = ,bombay4 ,f
 t place ,i  w5t by rail to ,ka?godam1  
!nce by trail to ! hill-/ation ,almora  

9 ! ,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ces1 :i* ,i aga9   
made my />t+-po9t1 z  9 ! fir/ j\rney4  
,p]haps x may int]e/ ! read] to "k t !  
entire  prep>ations1 ! selection ( all  
my foll[]s1 ! pur*ase ( an  excell5t    
,tibetan pony1 & ( all ! outfit &       
provisions to la/ my  m5 sev]al mon?s1 7
 accompli%$ 9 ! %ort space ( twelve     
h\rs4    ,! selection ( m5 = ! type (   
exp$itions ,i und]take1 9 :i*  abnormal 
endurance is requir$1 is n an easy      
matt]1 b ,i 0  p>ticul>ly =tunate on t  
occasion4 ,big a?letic fell[s ,i        
g5]ally avoid z absolutely useless = "w 
requir+ /eady  endurance & quick        
p]ception4 ,i gave pref]5ce to small1   
det]m9$1  wiry m51 light 9 weight1      
supple & quick 9 _! movem5ts4    ,hav+  
satisfi$ myself t !y 7 p]fectly s\nd 9  
lungs1 he>t1  & dige/ive organs--!y 71  
inde$1 too s\nd 9 ! latt]  respect--we 7
 ready to />t ! foll[+ day4 ,ea* man    
c>ri$ a  weight ( #bj se]s 7or #dj      
lbs471 a light load1 z ,i int5d$ do+    
d\ble & treble m>*es daily4    ,x 0 my  

int5tion to d a consid]able am\nt (     
m\nta9e]+ en  r\te1 & ,i did x2 b1      
contr>y to ! usual cu/om ( ,briti%      
m\nta9e]+ exp$itions 7:i* set out ) mu* 
fl\ri% (  trumpets7 ,i did n burd5      
myself ) ! company ( ,swiss ,alp9e      
guides4 ,"h is ! reason4 ,i am well aw>e
 t x impresses a good  _m bra9less folks
 to he> t an exp$ition to ! ,&es or !   
,himahlyas is accompani$1 ev5 l$1 by    
,swiss guides2 b to any real  m\nta9e]  
7,i d n mean memb]s ( ,alp9e ,clubs7 ! v
 fact t  ! memb]s ( su* an exp$ition    
require guides at all is b a pla9  av[al
 t !y h no fai? 9 !mselves1 besides     
display+ a mo/  infantile ignorance ( h[
 to f9d _! way ab\t4 ,no m\nta9e]1 :o   
is a real m\nta9e]1 ev] ne$s to be told 
:i* is ! be/ way to  g up a m\nta9 :i*  
is be=e him4 ,8 v in/9ct & obs]vation   
tell him4    ,let me rem9d y t !        
*>act]i/ics ( m\nta9s 9 diff]5t  p>ts ( 
! _w v>y to a consid]able ext5t4 ,x     
!re=e seems to  me t to employ a man    
7h[ev] f9e a fell[ he may be7 :o has    

sp5t  8 life haul+ hy/]ical ,alp9i/s by 
a mu*-beat5 trail up ,mont  ,blanc or ! 
,matt]horn1 to %[ ! way up a virg9      
,himahlyan peak1 is  z delightfully     
absurd z x w\ld be to *>t] an untravell$
 ,london  cabman to %[ y ) intellig5ce !
 sights ( ,mosc[1 or ,bagdad1  or       
,j]usalem6 ,d n =get1 too1 t ,mont      
,blanc or ! ,matt]horn are  p]fectly    
insignificant hills :5 comp>$ to peaks 9
 ! ,himahlyas4    ,z y "k1 ! *ief hobby 
& boa/ ( c]ta9 ,alp9i/s is to climb     
m\nta9s by impracticable ways4 ,?is     
practice is to be condemn$4 ,9  pla9    
words1 any man :o tries to g up a m\nta9
 by any b !  easie/ way is an idiot1 &  
%\ld be conf9$ to a lunatic asylum4  ,:5
 difficulties arise1 & _m d1 naturally  
!y h to be  ov]come z be/ "o c4 ,!n     
aga91 !re are _m feats 9  m\nta9e]+ &   
rock-climb+ :i* appe> v dang]\s & are  n
 dang]\s at all to any "o ) /eady head1 
he>t1 & legs2 b  ! absurd mania ( obta9+
 notoriety by go+ up a peak by a        
dang]\s r\te :5 an easi] way exi/s has  

no m s5se 9 x ?an  7 a horseman to try &
 ride 8 horse "u its tail in/ead (  ^u  
its back6 ,x is n real sport1 & sport1  
above all ?+s1  %\ld nev] be purposeless
 nor fooli%4    ,m\nta9e]+1 by any "o 9 
full possession ( all 8 s5ses1 is a     
delightful amusem5t1 & possibly !       
pleasante/1 heal?ie/1 &  mo/ in/ructive 
ex]cise 9 exi/5ce4 ,x develops e muscle 
9  "o's body1 makes "o quick ( sight &  
he>+1 exp&s1 cleans1 &  purifies "o's   
lungs1 & x makes "o--:5 dep5d5t on      
oneself--a  quick obs]v] & a subtle     
/ud5t ( ,nature1 its =ces1 & ! ways  (  
elem5ts & h[ to c\nt]balance !m4 ,x     
%\ld1 !re=e1 be  enc\rag$ 9 any "o born 
= ! "w2 b1 on ! o!r h&1 %\ld  be left   
sev]ely alone by any "o n specially     
con/ruct$ = !  "w by ,"m ,nature4 ,x c b
 mean disa/] 9 ! end1 & x  g5]ally does4
    ,un=tunate1 too1 is ! man :o 9      
8explor+ m\nta9e]+0 foll[s  ! rules &   
regulations laid d[n by !oretical b     
inexp]i5c$  amateurs ( c]ta9 ,alp9e     
in/itutions4 ,a practical m\nta9e] has  

no?+ to le>n f su* mislead+             
publications1 :e!r br\ght out  "u !     
patronage ( ,clubs or by "s ent]pris+   
*>latan or  o!r4 ,! con/ant sugge/ions  
to provide oneself ) all sorts (        
exp5sive & cumb]some tools1 axes1       
alp5/ocks1 & o!r  imp$im5ta are m]ely to
 swell ! pockets ( adv]tis]s :o support 
^? publications1 r ?an to safegu>d !    
life ( int5d+  m\nta9e]s4    ,p]sonally1
 & ,i am speak+ f a some:at ext5sive    
exp]i5ce1 ,i  owe my success & ! lack ( 
s]i\s accid5ts 9 any ( my  m\nta9e]+    
exp$itions absolutely to ! us+ none ( ! 
appliances recomm5d$ by ,alp9e clubs4 ,i
 m5tion ?is at ! outset to  prev5t !    
usual criticisms accus+ me ( hav+       
neglect$  precautions4 ,x 0 done        
wilfully on my "p1 because1 z f> z      
m\nta9e]+ is conc]n$1 ,i pref] to use   
:at little common-s5se ,i  possess 9    
pref]5ce to accept+ ! l>ge am\nt (      
nons5se (f]$  by o!r p4    ,i _h sp>$ no
 exp5se & tr\ble to obta9 ! be/         
sci5tific  in/rum5ts possible = tak+    

obs]vations1 & !y 7 specially           
manufactur$ = me1 light 9 weight & extra
 /rong1 & ) special  cases to protect !m
 f injury 9 ! r\ghe/ ( travell+4 ,my    
in/rum5ts 7 te/$ at ! ,kew              
,obs]vatory--bo? be=e go+ out (  & aft] 
my return to ,engl&--& f\nd 9 p]fect    
condition4    ,all altitudes (          
importance 7 inv>iably measur$ ) !      
hypsometrical app>atus1 sev]al          
boil+-po9t !rmomet]s be+  successively  
us$ 9 ! obs]vation4 ,= diff]5tial       
heights ( no  great significance an]oids
 7 us$4 ,all be>+s 7 tak5 ) a  prismatic
 compass1 & = latitude & longitude a    
#f-;in* sextant 0  us$1 a *ronomet]     
wat*1 m]cury & plate-glass artificial   
horizons4    ,necess>ily1 ,i c>ri$      
maximum & m9imum !rmomet]s & all        
necess>y in/rum5ts & appliances =       
survey+ "w1 photography1  pa9t+1 etc4   
,sev]al rifles & d\ble-b>rell$ guns1 a  
revolv]1  eight ?\s& r\nds ( ammunition1
 & t5 p\nds ( gunp[d] 7  c>ri$1 9 case  
we _h to d "s %oot+2 :ile ea* man 0 giv5

 a  l>ge ,gurkha kukri = 8 own          
protection4    ,= our ne$s ,i c>ri$     
money 9 solid silv] & gold4 ,my t9n$    
provisions 7 prep>$ = me 9 ,london1 & 7 
v good4 ,all my  mo/ valuable           
possessions 7 pack$ 9 air-tight cases ( 
my own  design1 :i*1 z on previ\s       
j\rneys1 ,i f\nd answ]$ v well4    ,a   
,tibetan t5t1 #g feet high1 #aj feet    
long1 & #h feet wide1 twelve  p\nds only
 9 weight2 a small t5te d'abri1 & "s    
%elt]s =m$  my camp4    ,la/1 b n lea/1 
let me give "s advice reg>d+ y\r clo?+  
:5 y g m\nta9e]+4 ,d n masqu]ade = !    
occasion 9 fancy  twe$s ( />tl+ cut1    
clumsy muffl]s & gloves1 & pat5t        
hobnail$ boots4 ,we> ! sort ( clo!s &   
footge> y are  accu/om$ to put on e day4
 ,y w feel a great deal m  com=table1   
less ridicul\s1 & c]ta9ly a great deal  
saf]4    ,p]sonally1 ,i we> ! same sort 
( clo?+--s]ge suits ( !  ?9ne/ tropical 
mat]ial--9 any c\ntry & 9 any climate1 )
 no  und]we>2 ?9 socks1 %oes ( m$ium    
weight ) no nails "u !  soles4 ,i am v  

=tunate 9 "o way1 nev] feel+ ! slighte/ 
inconv5i5ce ?r\gh int5se heat or cold4  
,x is p>tly due1 ,i ?9k1  to "o's       
con/itution & circulation ( "o's blood1 
p>tly to habit1  & a good deal to be+   
h>d5$ ?r\gh con/ant r\gh+4    ,p]haps   
o!rs1 ) n s r\gh a tra9+1 may n g q s   
f>2  b nev] =get t ! m y feel at y\r    
ease 9 y\r attire1  ! less y are hamp]$ 
) articles ( any k9d :i* y are n        
accu/om$ to use e day1 ! m successful y 
w be 9 y\r  m\nta9e]+                   
exp$itions--especially on unkn[n        
m\nta9s4                  ,,*apt] ,,ii  
,f ,almora to ! ,tibetan fronti] ,i     
foll[$1 to a great ext5t1 a  diff]5t    
r\te f ! "o ,i _h tak5 on my fir/       
j\rney1 z ,i  want$ to visit en r\te !  
int]e/+ %r9e ( ,debi ,dhura4 ,!  "* ( ! 
c\ntry trav]s$ v>i$ little f t already  
describ$ 9 a previ\s "w4 ,i w only 9 ?is
 book describe ?+s  & places & incid5ts 
( ! j\rney t are q new1 leav+ out  a    
detail$ acc\nt ( my it9]>y4    ,pass+   
?r\gh =e/s ( walnut trees1 f9e oak &    

deod>s1 kaiphal1  rhodod5drons1 utis1 & 
yew1 & travell+ at elevations v>y+ f    
#eeaj feet at ,almora to #ffcj feet at  
,debi ,dhura1 ,i rea*$ 9 two days'      
j\rney ! sacr$ temple situat$ on a great
 granitic plateau1 !  ridge ( :i* ext5ds
 = sev]al miles4    ,x 0 9 ! aft]noon4  
,dur+ ! entire j\rney ra9 _h come d[n  9
 torr5ts2 b z ,i arriv$ at ,debi ,dhura1
 ! /orm1 :i* _h be5  p>ticul>ly fi]ce t 
day1 cle>$ z by magic2 ! heavy1         
lead5-black cl\ds roll$ away on e side1 
leav+ beh9d mo/  exquisite t9ts1 ( gold 
& r$ & gre51 ( a sup]b sunset4 ,)  ! w9d
 ris+1 ! :ite mi/ :i* cov]$ ! valleys   
bel[ u rose  sl[ly l a curta91 & a      
magnific5t panorama %one 9 radiant      
beauty 9 ! n[ cry/all9e atmosph]e4      
,beyond ! l[] & ne>]  ranges ( pure     
cobalt blue & d>k w>m gre5s1 t[]$ to !  
nor?  sn[-clad m\nta9s ( absolutely     
sublime beauty4    ,%ortly aft] my      
arrival an old prie/ came to greet me4  
,he _h 9 8  h&s a brass vessel fill$ )  
r$ fl[]s :i* he (f]$ me1  begg+ me to   

foll[ him to ! %r9e across ! road4      
8,?is is ! _w-fam\s %r9e ( ,debi ,dhura1
 ! %r9e to ,mahadeva  ,v>ahi ,debi &    
,bhimd510 said he1 ) a s]ies ( gr&      
salaams4 8,ah1  sahib1 y\r heal? & s\l w
 greatly b5efit by y\r visit "h10       
mutt]$ ! cunn+ old rascal1 :o by n[ _h  
be5 jo9$ by o!r  prie/s4    ,we walk$ up
 pa/ ! sacr$ sw+s to ! temple /&+ on !  
cr[n  ( a hill among really beautiful   
deod>1 walnut1 oak1 & ,olea fragrans    
trees4 ,! temple itself 0 ( no int]e/ or
 beauty1 b curi\s  inde$ 7 ! gigantic   
b\ld]s lean+ aga9/ ea* o!r1 all[+  a    
n>r[ entrance into a cave conta9+ a well
 & a %r9e4    ,no =eign] is all[$ inside
 ! cave1 = x is--!y say--! home (       
,debi1 & mu/ n be desecrat$ by humans ( 
o!r fai?s4 ,my m5  seem$ greatly excit$ 
ov] _! visit to ! cave1 & !y 7  pr(\nd 9
 _! salaams4 ,!y 7 mutt]+ f]v5t pray]s  
:5  !y came out4 ,on be+ ask$ :at !y _h 
se5 inside1 !y w\ld n  or c\ld n say4 ,z
 a matt] ( fact1 ,i believe !y _h se5   
no?+1  = ! cave 0 v d>k4    ,on we w5t1 

d[n "s slipp]y /eps1 until we came--"s  
hundr$ y>ds  bel[--to a curi\s rock ris+
 to a great height above ! gr\nd4       
8,ransila1 ! giant10 call$ out ! prie/1 
po9t+ at ! rock &  call+ x by its "n4   
,we climb$ ^u x to exam9e ! extraord9>y 
crack :i* split !  rock 9 two4 ,!       
fissure 0 s clean & %>p t x seem$       
produc$  by a viol5t bl[ r ?an by !     
action ( wat]4 ,a simil> crack  0       
noticeable 9 a l[] rock1 & nei!r ( ^!   
fissures seem$  v anci5t4 ,lightn+ may h
 caus$ !m1 or m possibly an  e>?quake4  
,! explanation giv5 by ! prie/s 0 qua9t1
 & x 0 int]e/+  to wat* ! expressions on
 my m5's faces1 :o receiv$ ) great      
suspicion my matt]-(-fact explanation ( 
h[ ^? cracks came to be2  :]eas !y gaz$ 
op5-m\!d & took 9 unres]v$ly ! fairy    
leg5d recit$ to u by ! prie/4 ,"h is !  
leg5d4    ,bhim ,s5 or ,bem ,s+ & ,debi 
7 "o day play+ pa*isi1 a game  resembl+ 
*ess1 & v common 9 ,india4 ,!y 7 seat$  
on !  above-describ$ granitic b\ld]1 8! 
,ransila10 & to give col\r to  ?is      

n>rative a squ>e engrav$ 9 ! rock m>ks !
 spot :]e !y  sat4 ,o!r my/ic signs1    
m>ks1 & figures are also po9t$ out to   
cr$ul\s pilgrims4 ,x appe>s t :ile s    
engag$1 ,bem ,s+ he>d  ! voice ( a %]t1 
a ri* man1 dr[n+ 9 ! di/ant ocean1      
hundr$s & hundr$s ( miles away4 ,he     
li/5$4 ,! %]t pray$ ,god  to live4      
,reg>dless ( ! fact t ! di/ance f ,debi 
,dhura to ! ocean  is1 z ! cr[ flies1 at
 lea/ #gjj miles1 ,debi rema9$ q        
unconc]n$1 & cont9u$ to play ! game ) 8 
"r h&1 :ile  he /ret*$--! leg5d does n  
say :e!r to its full ext5t--!  left arm 
& lift$ f ! foam+ wat] n only ! dr[n+   
man  b ! s9k+ %ip z well4    ,on )draw+ 
8 arm & re/+ x ^u 8 lap ! att5tion ( 8  
p>tn] z well z ( ! onlook]s 0 attract$  
by ! wet on ,debi's  h& & =e>m4 ,!y     
inquir$ ! cause1 b ,debi curtly reque/$ 
!m to m9d _! own bus9ess & g on ) !     
game4 ,puzzl$ &  angry1 ! o!rs dem&$ an 
explanation4 ,insult+ rem>ks 7 made  &1 
f9d+ no o!r explanation1 a sugge/ion 0  
made t he 0  p]spir+ some?+ else in/ead 

( p]spiration f 8 arm4 ,at ?is  po9t    
,debi deem$ x prud5t to vani%4    ,bem  
,s+'s wra? 0 at its z5i?4 ,amaz$1 ev5   
upset1 he se>*$ =  ,debi all ar\nd1 &1  
unable to f9d him1 he seiz$ a l>ge b\ld]
 &  ) x /ruck ! big rock ,ransila ) su* 
viol5ce t he split x  9 two1 9 ord] to  
discov] :e!r ,debi 0 hid+ inside x4     
,! onlook]s 9 ! meantime1 t]rifi$ by !  
do+s ( ^!  abnormal be+s1 _h fl$ 9 all  
directions1 :ile ,debi _h quietly       
retir$ to ! cave :i* ,i h already       
describ$1 & :]e--!y  say--he dwells     
/ill4 ,! b\ld] us$ by ,bem ,s+ 9 8 feat 
(  /r5g? is %[n to ?is day to ! op5-m\!d
 pilgrims at ,debi  ,dhura4 ,s firmly _h
 he grasp$ x 9 8 h&s t ! m>ks ( 8  f+]s 
& ?umbs are /ill deeply impress$ ^u !   
granite4    ,! end ( ! leg5d br\ght =? !
 usual reque/ = a g5]\s  back%i%1 :ile m
 fl[]s 7 produc$ & h&$ to my foll[]s1   
:o adorn$ _! e>s & caps ) !m4    ,we    
return$ to ! sacr$ sw+s1 ( great height1
 ) iron *a9s  in/ead ( ropes1 ^u :i*    
pilgrims1 old & "y1 sw+ !mselves1  ei!r 

s+ly or 9 c\ples4 ,dur+ ! mon?s ( ,june1
 ,july1 &  ,augu/1 :5 a pilgrimage &    
fair are held at ! %r9e1 ^! sw+s  are   
kept go+ all day & ! great] "p ( !      
night4 ,?\s&s  ^u ?\s&s ( devotees visit
 ! weird rocks & leave h&some           
oblations4 ,a special fe/ival is held 9 
,augu/1 :5 ?rongs (  natives assemble & 
sacrifice goats1 %eep1 & occasionally   
buffaloes4 ,z _m z "o hundr$ %eep are   
kill$ dur+ "o ( ^!  fe/ivals1 & !       
sacrifice takes place ei!r on ! ,ransila
 rock or  at ! entrance ( ! cave4       
,ev]y?+ at ,debi ,dhura is connect$ )   
/ones & rocks4 ,betwe5  ! two sw+s & ne>
 a quadrangul> /one wall "s f\r or five 
feet high1 lay a big natural ball (     
granite1 call$ 8,*ela10 or 8!  te/ (    
/r5g?40 ,!y say t only "o man 9 a hundr$
 c raise x  above ! gr\nd1 "o 9 a ?\s&  
is able to lift x up to 8 wai/1  & n a  
human be+ alive c lift x up & deposit x 
on ! wall4  ,:oev] p]=m$ ! latt] de$    
w\ld h e happ9ess = ev]4  ,al?\gh       
accord+ to ! prie/s ! /one weigh$ #djjj 

lbs41 its  actual weight 0 n m ?an #cej 
lbs42 only x 0 difficult to get  hold ( 
x1 & x 0 well-nigh impossible to d s by 
%e] /r5g?4  ,b :5 brute /r5g? fails1    
ruse is (t5 easily successful1 & s1  be+
 some:at v]s$ 9 ! laws ( lev]age1       
balance1 & impetus1 ,i  succe$$1 mu* to 
! amazem5t ( ev]ybody1 9 plac+ t /one   
^u ! wall4 ,x 0 an ef=t ?\gh1 ,i c tell 
y4    ,a peculi> feature ( ! annual fair
 is ! procession f ! %r9e  9 ! cave to !
 summit ( ! hill1 a few hundr$ y>ds (f1 
^u  :i* is a /one %$ & a cairn4 ,! m5 :o
 c>ry ! /one idol 9  ?is procession are 
all />k-nak$1--a v unusual case )       
,h9doos1--& s also are _m :o foll[ 9 !  
procession4    ,ano!r feature ( !       
fe/ival is t /range cu/om :i* "o f9ds  9
 mo/ c\ntries ( ,asia--! annual         
/one-fights4 ,ab\t a ?\s& m5  collect 9 
an op5 space1 & are divid$ into legions 
( five hundr$  ea*1 a %ort di/ance f ea*
 o!r4 ,:5 bo? p>ties h amass$  9 _!     
respective camps a suitable am\nt (     
ammunition 9 ! way (  /ones1 collect$ 9 

m\nds1 & also a good supply c>ri$ on !  
p]son1 ! combatants draw ne>] & ne>] 9 a
 l9e4 ,at a signal  ! fight beg9s1 & !y 
fl+ /ones at "o ano!r by means (  sl+s &
 =k$ /icks1 :irl+ ! missiles ?r\gh ! air
 )  t]rific =ce4 ,! m p get injur$ !    
fi]c] becomes !  fight1 till !          
ammunition fails1--& x la/s a long "t1  
because !  combat is1 z x 71 a m]e      
ex*ange ( ammunition4    ,! wives &     
daught]s & swee!>ts ( ! combatants view 
!  mele ) trembl+ he>ts f a rais$ po9t (
 vantage well out (  range ( ! missiles4
 ,! fight]s get to su* close qu>t]s t   
p\nd+ "o ano!r on ! head ) /ones is n   
uncommon1 & x is  only :5 all are worn1 
w\nd$1 a*+1 & bl9d$ by ! du/ &  blood t 
an armi/ice is call$4 ,h>dly any "o     
escapes unhurt1 b  no "o ev] compla9s1  
no matt] h[ s]i\s _! w\nds may be1 z  !y
 believe t no "o c actually be kill$ 9  
^! sacr$ fights4  ,z ea* man falls      
s5seless to ! gr\nd1 he is convey$ to ! 
temple  :]e ! foll[+ treatm5t awaits    
him4 ,! ,brahm9 prie/s beat &  rub him  

well ) a bun* ( nettles4 ,x is said to  
be an infallible  rem$y4    ,no         
ill-feel+ is said to rema9 betwe5 !     
legions aft] ! fight is  ov]1 & ) b&ag$ 
heads & limbs !y all jo9 9 a common bura
  kana--a big meal4    ,! fights g5]ally
 beg9 by ! *ildr5 be+ made to fight     
fir/1  ! eld]s jo9+ 9 :5 well excit$ ov]
 _! sons' do+s4                  ,,*apt]
 ,,iii      ,! trail1 :i* _h made a     
some:at circuit\s deviation s\?w>d (    
,debi ,dhura1 began to turn to ! ea/1 & 
soon aft] t[>ds !  nor?-ea/4 ,aft] leav+
 ,debi ,dhura x br\ght ! travell] to !  
summit ( ! granitic range :i* ! trail   
foll[$ all along1 amid/  c\ntry ?ickly  
wood$ ) oaks1 rhodod5drons1 p9es1 &     
deod>s4  ,! :ole j\rney 0 made at high  
elevations1 ?r\gh d5se =e/s1  ) a feel+ 
( damp ab\t ev]y?+2 ! trees1 soak$ &    
dripp+1 /&+ l black giants 9 ! p5etrat+ 
:ite mi/ t  envelop$ u4 ,"o c\ld n see m
 ?an tw5ty or ?irty y>ds (f4    ,9 _m   
places ! trail 0 n>r[1 & x _h be5 built 
by bla/+  ! /eep rocky m\nta9side &     

fill+ :atev] gaps !re 7 )  a wall       
support$ on out/&+ b\ld]s bel[4 ,! trail
 0 9 su*  places h>dly m ?an ?ree or f\r
 feet wide1 & no p>apet ( any  k9d exi/$
 to prev5t unlucky travell]s f fall+ ov]
 into !  precipice sev]al hundr$ feet 9 
dep? at ! side4    ,9 fair wea!r1 :5 !  
trail 0 dry1 & :5 a tru/wor?y animal  0 
be+ ridd51 !re w\ld1 ( c\rse1 be no     
dang] ( any k9d2 b  :5 ,i w5t ?r\gh1 !  
pa? 0 slimy & slipp]y1 & my             
pony--al?\gh excell5t & sure-foot$1 q l 
a goat on a  m\nta9 trail--possess$ !   
bad habit ( %y+ at any?+ mov+  ^u !     
gr\nd1 & p>ticul>ly at ! :itewa%$       
mile/ones1 :5  he w\ld inv>iably make a 
few contortions1 & end up by /&+ on  8  
h9d legs ) a f9al leap =w>d :5 ! :ip 0  
duly appli$  ^u 8 back4    ,i _h j pass$
 "o ( ^! mile-po/s1 & expect+ a peaceful
  ride until we came to ! next1 ,i pull$
 out my notebook & 0  jott+ d[n "s      
obs]vations4 ,we 7 !n at a consid]able  
height1  ! trail1 cut into ! rock1 w9d+ 
its way along ! summit ( !  m\nta9side4 

,x 0 ab\t sunset1 & ev]y?+ ar\nd me 0   
sil5t  b = ! clatt] ( my pony's ho(s ^u 
! wet trail1 or e n[  & !n ! noise ( a  
/one roll+ d[n into ! precipice "s #hjj 
feet deep4    ,9 go+ r\nd a corn] a man 
appe>$ envelop$ 9 a r$ blanket1 !  end (
 :i* 0 flutt]+ 9 ! breeze4 ,unexpect$ly 
my pony neigh$  frantically1 gave a     
p[]ful j]k1 back$1 & slipp$ ) 8 h9d     
legs (f ! trail4    8,jupit]60 ,i       
exclaim$ z ,i tri$ to jump (f ! saddle4 
,my blood  turn$ cold2 b be=e ,i _h "t  
to dism\nt1 ! pony :i* 0  re/+ ) 8 body 
on ! trail1 scrambl$ up aga9 on x 9 !   
mo/ miracul\s mann]4 ,9 a p]fect fr5zy  
he n[ bolt$ full gallop  along ! tortu\s
 & n>r[ way4 ,9 my attempt to get (f1 ! 
re9s  _h got loose & entangl$1 & ,i _h  
tak5 my left foot (f !  /irrup4    ,a   
glance at ! illu/ration depict+ ?is     
incid5t w %[ ! k9d  ( place :]e x       
occurr$2 & x c easily be imag9$ t a     
pony1  da%+ along r\nd corn]s involv$ "s
 m9or dang]s to ! rid]1  su* z sma%+    
"o's knee or head aga9/ project+ b\ld]s4

 ,worse  luck1 9 ?is unpleasant         
cont+5cy1 ! bit broke1 :i* plac$ me     
absolutely at ! m]cy ( ! pony1 :o       
vici\sly rubb$ aga9/ !  rocks to my "r1 
s t ! "r /irrup & "p ( ! saddle  7 torn 
(f4 ,my "r leg might h %>$ ! same fate  
_h nature  n end[$ me ) suffici5t       
agility to move x out ( ! way :5        
necess>y4 ,dism\nt+ w\ld h meant c]ta9  
dea?1 because1 at !  spe$ ,i 0 go+1 no  
matt] on :i* side ,i got (f1 ei!r       
directly  or by recoil1 ,i %\ld h be5   
%ot (f into ! abyss4    ,ev5tually--& :5
 x pleas$ him--! pony resum$ ! j\rney 9 
a  less reckless fa%ion4 ,if n !        
be/-temp]$1 he 0 c]ta9ly !  mo/         
sure-foot$ animal ,i _h ev] ridd51 &    
ev5tually he & ,i  became good fri5ds2  
he lo/ 8 %yness & nev] aga9 play$       
tricks4  ,he 0 really z good z a goat at
 hill-climb+1 & he c\ld g :]e  a human  
w\ld exp]i5ce difficulty 9 gett+ along4 
,two ( my m51 :o1 ) trembl+ he>ts1 _h   
witness$ ! accid5t1  ultimately caught  
me up & expla9$ to me ! real cause ( x4 

,simultane\sly ) ! appe>ance ( ! man 9 !
 flapp+ blanket1  ! pony _h plac$ 8 foot
 on a small snake ly+ coil$ & numb$  )  
cold ^u ! road4    ,we _h d\ble & treble
 m>*es daily1 dr5*+ ra91 & heavy        
trails1 b pony & m5 w5t well4 ,! pony1  
,i mu/ say1 lo/ a good  deal ( 8        
frisk9ess1 =1 9 ord] to remove 8        
exub]ance (  vig\r z quickly z possible1
 ,i p]mitt$ "s ( my m5 to indulge 9  _! 
national habit ( hold+ to ! pony's tail 
:ile asc5d+  /eep hills4    ,we seem$ to
 h a good _m v>i$ exp]i5ces on t trip2 !
 next  sight be+ ! corpse ( a woman ti$ 
9 a %eet to a pole1 &  spr9kl$ all ov] )
 r$ pa9t4 ,a gr\p ( m5 sat by h]1 &     
seem$ conc]n$ at ! unwelcome appe>ance (
 a sahib4    ,! woman _h be5 lyn*$4 ,%e 
0 said to h be5 beautiful1 b  unfai?ful 
to h] husb&1 = :i* latt] fault %e _h be5
 dragg$  into ! =e/1 ill-treat$1 &      
ev5tually hang$1 h] body be+  left =    
sev]al days until ! murd] 0 discov]$4   
,on ! pres5t  occasion ! body 0 be+     
convey$ to ,almora--"s fifty miles (f--=

  ! (ficial exam9ation & inquiry4 ,i _h 
dism\nt$ 9 ord] to he>  ! details ( !   
trag$y1 b z ! corpse 0 9 a /ate (       
decomposition ,i jump$ on ! saddle aga9 
& fl$1 my h&k]*ief  held fa/ to my nose4
    ,i 0 told t ,kumaonis1 especially 9 
! p>ticul> "p ( !  prov9ce ,i 0 !n      
travell+ 91 7 v rev5geful & mu*  addict$
 to murd]4 ,i1 too1 f\nd !m morose &    
sulky1 ev]  discont5t$1 some:at         
quick-temp]$ & unreasonable4 ,!y        
und\bt$ly possess ! v9dictive & w>like  
*>act]i/ics ( _!  =m] ma/]s & pres5t    
neighb\rs1 ! ,nepalese1 b h lo/--or     
possibly nev] possess$--any ( _! f9]    
qualities4    ,s9ce ! ,briti% took      
possession ( ?is "p ( ,kumaon1 crime has
  be5 put d[n to a c]ta9 ext5t1 b mu*   
difficulty1 ,i und]/&1  is exp]i5c$ 9   
ev] discov]+ (f5d]s1 :o are clev]ly     
scre5$  f ! au?orities by ev]ybody4 ,!y 
c]ta9ly h no love1 nor  ev5 respect1 =  
sahibs1 & !y display a sup]cili\s look  
^u  _! c\nt5ances :i* makes !m he>tily  
dete/able4    ,i 0 able to obta9        

additional ponies & m5 at ,lohag>t1     
=m]ly a  milit>y cantonm5t1 & to cont9ue
 my j\rney t[>ds ! ,nepalese  fronti]4  
,we cross$ ! ,s]ju ,riv] =m+ ! s\!rn &  
nor!rn  b\nd>ies1 respectively1 betwe5 !
 ,sor & ,kali ,kumaon ,p>ganahs1 by  a  
=c$ m>* ( tw5ty-"o miles--q good go+ )  
baggage & on  su* roads 9 su* wea!r4 ,we
 _h "s difficulty 9 keep+ to !  trail 9 
! d>k =e/ at night1 & we _h a curi\s    
in/ance ( h[  sup]/ition w "w on "s p's 
m9ds ) q disa/r\s  effects4 ,all ov] !  
,himahlyas "o f9ds1 9 "s =m or o!r1 a   
root$ belief 9 ! spirits ( ! m\nta9s & (
 ! =e/1 "s  ( ! spirits be+ b5ign en\gh1
 o!rs ( a wick$ temp]am5t4    ,my sayce1
 :o 0 an excell5t fell[1 b timid to a   
degree1 _h  become sep>at$ f ! re/ ( my 
p>ty & _h rema9$ f> beh9d  9 *>ge ( a   
recalcitrant pony & load4 ,9 ! middle ( 
! night ,i  he>d di/ant cries ( di/ress1
 &1 suspect+ ! cause1 ,i s5t "s  m5 )   
improvis$ tor*es to 8 assi/ance4 ,!y    
c>ri$ 9 !  sayce1 & on deposit+ him on !
 gr\nd1 pron\nc$ him dy+4 ,9  fact1 !   

poor fell[ 0 d\bl$ up1 deliri\s ) fev]1 
& 9 a  /ate ( absolute n]v\s collapse4  
,:5 ,i br\ght a light to 8 face  he     
became t]rifi$1 wept1 &1 trembl+ all    
ov]1 begg$ = m]cy4  ,he seem$ to be     
lab\r+ "u "s halluc9ation--"s gha/ly    
vision  at all ev5ts1 = :5 ,i plac$ my  
h& ^u 8 =ehead he scream$  & /ruggl$ 9  
horror4 ,he entreat$ to be fre$ f !     
horrible  figures :i* danc$ ar\nd him2  
he %udd]$1 & ev5tually 8  convulsions   
took ! =m ( an epileptic fit4    ,?is 0 
all ! result ( a prolong$ fright4 ,:5 he
 recov]$  suffici5tly he told me h[ at  
night 9 ! =e/1 :5 he 0 left  alone1 evil
 spirits surr\nd$ him & pull$ him by !  
hair1 !  e>s1 ! nose1 & p9*$ him all    
ov]4    8,%[ me ! m>ks40    8,sahib10 he
 said1 look+ at himself all ov]1 8,i c  
see no m>ks1 b  ,i /ill feel ! pa9 :]e  
!y t\*$ me40    8,b h[ c\ld y see !     
spirits if x 0 q d>k80    8,yes1 b x    
seem$ to gr[ q light :5 !y sudd5ly      
appe>$4 ,i  ?9k !y 7 ! s\ls ( dead p4   
,!y 7 v ugly1 sahib60    8,7 !y z ugly z

 we are80    8,yes1 sahib1 ab\t ! same6 
,i ?9k ,i recognis$ "s ( my relations   
among !m40    ,! poor fell['s n]ves 7 s 
%att]$ by ! fright he _h  exp]i5c$ t he 
nev] completely recov]$ f ! %ock4    ,9 
o!r works ,i h describ$ h[ ! natives on 
! bord]s ( ,tibet  fe> ^! spirits ( !   
m\nta9s1 & place ob/acles1 su* z  ?orns1
 etc41 along ! pa?s 9 ord] to prev5t !m 
ent]+  villages1 :ile ?reads are plac$  
along dang]\s passages ^u trails  to    
facilitate ! 8good spirits ( ! m\nta9s0 
( dep>t$ fri5ds  f9d+ _! way 9 ! d>k ( !
 night )\t misadv5ture4    ,go+ n[ 9 a  
nor!rly direction we came to ,pi?orag>h1
 a place (  =m] importance1 possess+ !  
rema9s ( a ,nepalese =t1 an  elaborate  
/ructure ( solid e>?-works ) plat=m =   
guns1 a  wat]-tank1 & a mu*-loophol$    
quadrangul> ca/le4 ,^! /ructures  /& on 
prom95t po9ts 9 ! c5tre ( ! gre5 &      
well-cultivat$ valley1--"s f\rte5 squ>e 
miles 9 ext5t1--dott$  "h & !re ) little
 villages & h\ses & tufts ( trees1 &    
irrigat$ by sev]al /reams4 ,a l[        

hill-range 9 ! c5tre sep>ates  ! valley 
9 two4    ,:ile tak+ a photograph ( !   
=ts ,i ne>ly & mo/ unexpect$ly  trod on 
a big snake1 "s #h feet 9 l5g?1 :i* lay 
spread 9 !  sun4 ,he rais$ 8 prettily   
ar*$ neck at my approa* & hiss$ )  "s   
vehem5ce1 :i* ,i took = a reque/ to /&  
back4 ,motionless1  he gaz$ at me ) 8   
vitr9e eyes1 & he 0 s beautiful1 )      
iridesc5t scales %9+ l preci\s /ones 9 !
 sun1 t = "o  mom5t ,i c\ld n help gaz+ 
at him4 ,b z ,i _h no /ick nor any      
weapon ^u me ,i cut %ort my "p ( ?is    
mutual admiration4 ,:5 !  snake describ$
 a graceful curve & dep>t$1 ,i1 too1 )  
some:at  less grace1 made a spe$y       
retreat 9 ! opposite direction4    ,f   
,pi?orag>h by quick m>*es ,i made rapid 
progress t[>ds !  fronti]1 visit+ en    
r\te my old fri5d ! ,rajiw> ( ,askote1  
:o  _h %[n me mu* k9dness :5 convey$ ov]
 ! fronti] aft] my  captivity & tortures
 9 ,tibet two ye>s previ\sly4 ,! entire 
t[n  turn$ out to receive me1 & ,i 0    
aga9 ent]ta9$ by ! ,rajah 9  8 palace4  

,x seem$ r a pity t ?is magnific5t old  
fell[1 ^:  fai?fulness to ! ,briti% _h  
ev] be5 exempl>y1 did n receive  m      
c\rtesy f snobbi% (ficials :o           
occasionally visit$ 8  c\ntry1 because1 
aft] all1 c\rtesy co/s no?+ & goes a v  
long way ) natives ( all classes4 ,!    
important s]vices :i* he  & 8 family h  
r5d]$ 9 fronti] matt]s ) bo? ,tibet &   
,nepal seem$ to h be5 =gott51 & ) !     
heavy taxation t  _h be5 impos$ ^u him  
he f\nd x difficult--at ! "t ( my       
visit--to support himself & 8 num]\s    
relations4    ,f a /rategic po9t ( view 
! ,askote valley is ! pr9cipal &        
practically ! only highway1 ! key1 z x  
71 to all ! ,himahlyan  passes lead+    
into ,tibet f ,bhot 7bo? 9 ,d>ma & 9    
,bias71 z  well z ^? ( ,we/]n ,nepal4   
,p]haps ! fact ( hav+ 9 su* a  spot a   
loyal subject1 able to keep a %>p wat*  
^u dang]s t may  imp5d 9 ! future1 w\ld 
be m valu$ if x 7 m und]/ood4    ,aft] a
 day ( fe/ivities & excessive eat+1     
enliv5$ by mo/  h>moni\s native music1 &

 a visit f my fri5ds ! ,raots1 !  pr\d  
wild m5 ( ! =e/ :o _h on a =m] occasion 
pr$ict$ my  dea? :5 ,i visit$ _! haunt1 
we travell$ ?r\gh ! l[ & hot  ,kali     
valley4 ,"h mal>ial fev] 0 rampant1 v]m9
 & mosquitoes 9  sw>ms1 & r9d]pe/ rag+4 
,i 0 n[ go+ along ! ,nepalese  fronti]1 
! ,kali ,riv] def9+ ! b\nd>y-l9e betwe5 
!  ,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ces ( ,india &      
,nepal4    ,on ent]+ ,bhot1 or ,little  
,tibet1 we aga9 rose to great]          
altitudes1  & 7 soon able to %ake (f !  
t\* ( fev] :i* ne>ly all my  m5 & myself
 _h contract$ 9 go+ ?r\gh ! /eamy1 damp 
valley4  ,at ,sirka1 s9ce my =m] visit1 
a ,*ri/ian *ur* ( /one _h  ris5--! fir/ 
"o 9 ,briti% ,tibet--! "w ( ! untir+ &  
self-sacrific+ ,miss ,%eldon1 an        
,am]ican lady doctor1 :o has =  ye>s    
done noble "w among ! ,%okas1--,%oka1 z 
y "k1 is !  local "n ( ! inhabitants ( t
 p>ticul> section ( ,bhot4 ,:5  ,i pass$
 ?r\gh1 ,miss ,%eldon 0 busy putt+ on ! 
ro( ( !  *ur*--an op]ation :i* ,i wat*$ 
) admiration1 m+l$ some:at  ) conc]n1   

al?\gh ,i mu/ confess a skill$ mason    
c\ld n h  done x bett]4                 
,,*apt] ,,iv      ,"s miles f>!r on     
ano!r surprise await$ me4 ,a new trail 0
  be+ cut along ! rock to %ort5 ! ups & 
d[ns ( ! old  8,n]pani0--! 8wat]less    
trail0--or1 r1 "s ( ! wor/ p>ts (  ! old
 trail 7 be+ modifi$ & /raight5$4 ,! new
 trail 0  j z n>r[ & dang]\s z ! old "o1
 9 "s places only a  c\ple ( feet or s  
wide1 or ev5 less1 ) a deep precipice   
b5ea?1  & _m p>ts1 z ) ! old] trail1 7  
support$ on cr[b>s  ?ru/ into ! rock1 "s
 slabs ( /one plac$ ^u !m mak+ !  pa?4  
,b "o ?+ ! new trail c]ta9ly did4 ,x did
 away ) "s ( !  int]m9able flights (    
/eps :i* 7 "o ( ! mo/ try+  features ( !
 old ,n]pani4 ,s t bo? ! ,gov]nm5t & !  
,%okas  :o subscrib$ mo/ ( ! money = !  
"w1 may be congratulat$ on  ! decid$    
improvem5t ( t highway into ,tibet4     
,9 =m] days x 0 almo/ impossible to take
 pack-animals across1  except %eep1--&  
_m ( ^! always p]i%$ on ea* j\rney1--b  
by  ! new trail1 :5 f9i%$1 ?is is       

feasible1 al?\gh n easy4    ,= c]ta9    
reasons ( my own1 & kn[+ ! difficulty ( 
obta9+  ponies 9 ,tibet itself1 ,i      
decid$ to br+ my pony across at all     
co/s4  ,x 0 c]ta9ly a job :i* gave me a 
great _m h\rs ( h>d "w  & anxiety4 ,!   
trail1 bla/$ into ! rock or 9 n>r[      
flights (  /eps along ! high cliffs1 0  
wet & slipp]y1 & 9 _m places  h>dly     
broad en\gh = ! animal's body to pass   
)\t los+ its  balance4 ,/ill1 ) a sl+ or
 two1 & "o man hold+ ! bea/ by  ! head &
 ano!r by ! tail1 we manag$1 )          
occasional  precipit\s slides1 to get   
along pretty well4 ,9 "o place ! pony   
slipp$ & fell sideways on ! wet slabs1 &
 kick$ fragm5ts ( !  un/eady road 79 t  
portion laid on cr[b>s7 fly+ into !     
riv]1  d[n1 d[n bel[1 "s #fjj or #gjj   
feet %e] drop4 ,9 o!r places1  :]e r\gh 
scaffold+1 support$ on ropes1 _h be5    
erect$ along !  v]tical rock 9 ord] to  
cut holes = ! cr[b>s1 ! "w (  convey+ ! 
pony across 0 by no means easy4 ,!      
scaffold+ 0  g5]ally made ( a c\ple (   

trees ti$ toge!r horizontally & an      
occasional plank4    ,p]haps !          
illu/ration repres5t+ "o ( ^! passages  
may give a  bett] idea ( ! situation ?an
 a long description4 ,x 0 impossible  = 
! pony to walk on ! scaffold+1 s t we _h
 to pu% him  ov] & convey him across1   
susp5d$1 z f> z :]e ! trail began  aga94
 ,?is we did by means ( sev]al rope sl+s
 r\nd 8 body4 ,!n  "o man held ! pony's 
head1 :ile ,i held him by ! tail--be+ ! 
easie/ to let g 9 case ( misadv5ture4   
,z ! weight ( a pony is consid]able1 !  
m5 w\nd ! ropes  sev]al times r\nd _!   
wri/s2 & at "o mom5t1 :5 we 7 all  9 !  
c5tre ( ! scaffold+1 x creak$ s1 & a    
plank on :i* a  man /ood %[$ su*        
ela/icity :5 a good deal ( ! weight 0   
c5t]$ on x1 t ,i really ?\ght we %\ld   
all be precipitat$  d[n into ! /ream4 ,z
 luck w\ld h x--& we did sweat ov] !    
und]tak+1 al?\gh ! day 0 int5sely       
cold--we got safely on !  o!r side4     
,p]haps ,i may m5tion t nev] 9 my       
exp]i5ce h ,i se5 an animal  m t]rifi$  

?an t pony 0 on t occasion4 ,:5 we /ood 
him  aga9 ^u t]ra firma 8 legs quiv]$ s 
t x 0 q pa9ful  to witness1 & he neigh$ 
& neigh$ convulsively1 & made ! s\nd    
e*o all d[n ! valley4 ,i may also add t 
f t same  scaffold+1 t same morn+1 "o ( 
! workm5 _h fall5 ov]1 &  8 body 0 da%$ 
into an unrecognisable mass on "s rocks 
9 !  foam+ /ream bel[4    ,i _h he>d mo/
 peculi> rum\rs f ! natives t !         
,tibetans  _h come 9 great =ce on to    
,briti% t]ritory at ,g>byang1 & )  great
 pomp & mu* beat+ ( drums 7 proclaim+ t 
! ,briti%  ,gov]nm5t 7 afraid ( com+ to 
,tibet1 & t ! entire ,bias &  ,*audas _h
 n[ be5 c$$ to ,tibet4    ,x may be     
rememb]$ t z e>ly z #ahih1 aft] ! return
 f my  fir/ j\rney to ,tibet1 ,i po9t$  
out to ! ,gov]nm5t ! abuses (  ,tibetan 
(ficials :o came ov] to our side ( !    
fronti]1 claim$  ,sah-tal or ,l& ,rev5ue
 f ,briti% subjects1 & ev5 tortur$      
unprotect$ natives on our side ( !      
fronti] if !y refus$ to pay4  ,"s       
prom95ce 0 giv5 9 ! ,h\se ( ,commons to 

que/ions on ?is  subject1 & ! ,gov]nor (
 ! ,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ces _h to  ackn[l$ge
 t su* 0 ! case1 b decl>$ t /eps w\ld be
  tak5 to /op ! abuses4 ,t ! ,sah-tal 0 
paid 0 admitt$1 b  x 0 /at$ to be a     
trade tax1 :i* 0 untrue1 & possibly     
utt]$  9 ignorance ( facts4 ,x 0 agre$ t
 ! paym5t ( ! ,sah-tal by  ,briti%      
subjects %\ld1 nev]!less1 be /opp$1 & x 
0 actually  susp5d$4    ,ap>t f ! fact t
 ! words ,sah-tal 9 !mselves mean 8l&   
rev5ue10 & t x is paid on ! am\nt ( l&  
possess$ by ,%okas  on ,briti% soil1 a  
fur!r pro( t x is a l& tax is provid$ by
  ! case ( ,d>ma ,%okas1 :o pay !       
,sah-tal on _! l& to ! ,jong  ,p5 (     
,taklakot1 & :o d no trad+ ) t p>ticul> 
"p (  ,tibet4    ,fur!rmore1 ! ,jong ,p5
 ( ,taklakot receives ! am\nt ) !       
di/9ct und]/&+ t x is a l& tax1 & n a   
trade tax1 &  z su* x appe>s 9 ,gov]nm5t
 reports by ! few ,briti% (ficials  :o  
_h be5 to ! fronti]1 su* z ,mr4 ,/urt1  
,mr4 ,l>k91 & o!r  deputy commission]s &
 collectors1 & ! ,political ,ag5t on !  

spot4 ,9 ,d>ma ! ,sah-tal 0 collect$    
direct by ,jong ,p5's  emiss>ies1 b 9   
,bias & ,*audas ! ,political ,ag5t 0    
made to act  z a s]vant to ! ,tibetans1 
& aft] collect+ ! rev5ue h&$  x ov] to !
 ,jong ,p5's (ficials at ,gungi & at    
,g>byang1 two  villages conv5i5tly      
situat$ = ! purpose4    ,*audas1 be+ !  
mo/ di/ant f ! ,tibet bord]1 only paid a
  nom9al sum ( #aa rupees 9 ca%1 & "s   
#ad rolls ( r\gh clo?2 b  ,g>byang1 =   
in/ance 7besides a real trade tax jo9tly
 ) ,*audas  ( #cgj boxes ( gra91 ea*    
conta9+ "s #bd lbs41 & #ad boxes (      
co>se clo?71 paid = ,sah-tal ! foll[+   
items3--                                
#hf 7?ree anna bits74      ,oats        
#abcj lbs4      ,saluk 7"r ( pa/ure7    
#b ,tibetan rupees4      ,ghur 7sweet   
pa/e7                       #d balls4   
,co>se clo?                             
#c entire rolls4      ,%oka liquor      
#ee j>s4      ,timb]                    
#cj huge logs4      ,iron               
#d lbs4      ,cakes1 sattoo1 *>coal1 &  

liquor = collect+ p>ty4      ,! village 
( ,kuti also paid a heavy ,sah-tal4     
,rupees                                 
#ag      ,oats                          
#abaj lbs4      ,saluk                  
#b rupees4      ,g>ah clo?              
#dj y>ds4      ,haun*es ( mutton        
#ab      ,j>s ( *kti 7w9e7              
#ej      ,ghur                          
#bh balls4      ,iron                   
#b lbs4      & *>coal1 cakes1 meat1     
liquor1 etc4      ,d>ma paid "s #aej    
balls ( ghur1 :i* _h a local value (    
ab\t #ge  rupees4    ,not)/&+ t !       
,gov]nm5t ( ! ,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ces c\ld 
n or w\ld n see matt]s 9 ! "r light1 x 0
 a great  gratification to me to ?9k t1 
on my giv+ publicity to su* an          
inju/ice1 ! ,gov]nm5t _h at la/ deem$ x 
"r to discont9ue  ! paym5t ( ! l& rev5ue
 to ,tibetans by our fronti] subjects4  
,x came1 !re=e1 z a v great surprise to 
me1 on approa*+  ,g>byang1 to he> t !   
,tibetans _h come ov] to t place 9      
great =ce1--) ! sanction ( ! ,briti%    

,gov]nm5t1--& t  sev]al (ficials1       
includ+ a ,n]ba1 "s ,dhats 9 r$ & black 
tunics & long swords1 f\r jimid>s1 two  
drumm]s1 & a numb] (  soldi]s 7 p>ad+ ! 
/reets1 proclaim+ ! annexation ( !      
di/rict to ,tibet1 & ill-us+ ! natives  
:o diff]$4 ,!y 7  gorg+ !mselves at !   
exp5se ( ! natives1 & hav+ a f9e  "t all
 r\nd4    ,at ! reque/ ( a deputation ( 
,%okas1 ,i ha/5$ on to ,g>byang2  b !   
,tibetans1 believ+ t ,i 0 com+ up ) a   
l>ge &  well-arm$ exp$ition to take a   
rev5ge ^u !m = =m] misde$s1  deem$ x    
advisable to pack up _! *attels1 pocket 
_! pride1 &  decamp ov] ! fronti]4    ,i
 met ) a mo/ en?usia/ic reception f !   
,g>byalis1 :o wi%$  me to rema9 9 _!    
village until ! passes 7 clos$ up by sn[
  s z to keep _! compulsory gue/s away4 
,! ,%okas seem$ depress$  & disgu/$ at  
:at !y rightly believ$ unw>rantable     
trea*]y on  ! "p ( ! ,gov]nm5t ( ,india4
 ,!y _h always be5 fai?ful--ev5  "u try+
 circum/ances--to ! ,briti%1 & su*      
undes]v$  treatm5t l$ !m to ! "o        

conclusion1 prea*$ by full-p[]$         
,tibetan lungs1 t ,engl& mu/ inde$ be   
weak1 or at lea/ afraid (  ,tibet4      
,und\bt$ly ^! sad & un*eck$ occurr5ces  
all along our ,tibetan  fronti]--y see1 
x is s uncom=table = ,anglo-,indian     
(ficials to  g up to ! sn[s to make     
inquiries & s on--h be5 ! *ief  cause ( 
,tibetan aggressiv5ess4 ,!re is no man s
 brave z ! "o  :o believes 8 oppon5t is 
n go+ to fight2 & p]haps n[1 aft]  !    
mu*-trumpet$1 enigmatical exp$ition to  
,lhassa & ! unexpect$  sudd5 retreat f t
 city1 !y w be no bett] ?an be=e4    ,i 
0 unable to acc$e to ! reque/ ( !       
natives to rema9 to  protect _! village1
 z ,i int5d$ go+ f>!r2 &1 moreov]1 !    
,gov]nm5t ( ,india hav+ become al>m$ at 
my proce$+ a second  "t t[>ds ,tibet1   
behav$ ) a consid]able am\nt ( amus+    
*ildi%ness4 ,gov]nm5t *aprassis 7 arriv+
 9 quick succession  ) secret ord]s to  
prev5t natives sell+ me provisions1 to  
induce  my m5 trea*]\sly to ab&on me1   
/eal my weapons & food1 &  place e      

possible ob/acle 9 my way4    ,"s native
 fri5ds1 :o1 accord+ to cu/om1 _h       
pres5t$ me ) a  ball ( ghur & two h&fuls
 ( rice1 7 arre/$ & prosecut$1  be+     
br\ght d[n to ,almora1 "s #ade miles1 = 
! purpose4 ,o!rs  met ) consid]able     
annoyance1 accusations ( all k9ds be+   
%[]$ ^u innoc5t p--ev5 su* gross nons5se
 z accusations  ( hid+ quick-fir+ guns &
 pieces ( ordnance6    ,bo? ! ,gov]nor &
 ! ,commission] at ,na9i-,tal1 & !      
,deputy  ,commission] ( ,almora1 seem$ q
 hy/]ical ov] ! affair1 &  "s absurd    
?reat5+ lett]s 7 writt5 to me4 ,my mails
 7  inv>iably tamp]$ )1 & all lett]s    
op5$4 ,among ! mo/  amus+ reque/s may be
 not$ "o t ,i %\ld %[ a ,*9ese passport 
if ,i want$ to trav]se ,bhot 7,briti%   
t]ritory71 :i* made x seem z  if !      
cession ( t t]ritory to ,tibet _h really
 be5  accompli%$--al?\gh ev5 !n1 z ,i   
un=tunately exp]i5c$ be=e1  a ,*9ese    
,imp]ial passport has z mu* effect ^u   
,tibetan (ficials  z a piece ( wa/e-pap]
 w\ld on ! ,prime ,m9i/] ( ,great       

,brita94    ,i 0 ord]$ to divulge my    
plans1 :i* ( c\rse ,i refus$ to d1      
pr9cipally because ,i _h no plans to    
divulge2 &1 fur!r1 0 told ,i  mu/ /op & 
8wait = ,gov]nm5t ord]s40 ,i repli$ t1  
be+  nobody's s]vant1 ,i w\ld receive no
 "o's ord]s4 ,i _h n ask$ nor  wi%$ nor 
ne$$ ,gov]nm5t assi/ance1 & ,i w\ld g :5
 & :]e  ,i lik$4    ,i 0 v sorry t !    
,political fronti] ,ag5t--a mo/ s5sible 
man--0 subject$ to mu* inconv5i5ce &    
anxiety by con/ant ord]s  to /op my     
exp$ition by any means--a matt] 9 :i* ,i
 also happ5$ to  be conc]n$4 ,he c\ld n1
 z ord]$1 />ve out my exp$ition1        
because ,i _h pl5ty ( food ( my own4    
,silly z ! ord]s giv5 him  71 he        
ob$i5tly did 8 utmo/ to *eck my         
movem5ts1 &1  moreov]1 behav$ l a       
g5tleman into ! b>ga94    ,"s spies :om 
,i f\nd 9 my camp came 9 = "s sev]e     
puni%m5t1  & two ,gov]nm5t *aprassis1 :o
 _h "o night be5 despat*$ to  ?reat5 my 
m5 & induce !m to des]t & capture my    
food &  ammunition1 receiv$ a s\nd      

?ra%+1 7 dis>m$1 & ,i took !m  prison]s 
& br\ght !m along ) me to d "s          
m\nta9e]+6 ,at  ! same "t ,i s5t ^w to  
^? 9 au?ority t1 :5 x %\ld  suit me1 on 
my return1 ,i w\ld p]sonally h& ov] !   
two prison]s4    ,fur!r ord]s arriv$ t  
any "o sell+ or giv+ food or %[+        
fri5d%ip to me %\ld be arre/$ & s5t d[n 
to ,almora =  puni%m5t4 ,all ?is seem$ v
 useless1 z ,i possess$ all ,i ne$$2  b1
 9 ord] to prev5t fur!r p]secution to "s
 ( my fri5ds1 ,i  decid$ to cross !     
b\nd>y at once--! ,kali ,riv]--& ent] ! 
,nepal k+dom--a c\ntry also clos$ to    
=eign]s1 z ev]ybody kn[s4               
,,*apt] ,v      ,9 ! meantime !         
,tibetans1 :o _h ha/ily retreat$ across 
!  b\nd>y into _! c\ntry1 _h giv5 ! al>m
 ( ! approa* ( my  exp$ition4 ,a spy ,i 
_h s5t ov] report$ t great commotion    
reign$  at ,taklakot4 ,bridges _h be5   
ha/ily de/roy$1 /one b>ri]s 7  put up1  
:ile w>like prep>ations ( all k9ds 7    
c>ri$ on 9  fev]i% spe$4 ,a bluff+      
message 0 s5t ov] by ! ,tibetans to     

in=m ! ,political ,ag5t t #ejjj m5 7    
ready to meet my =ce  & capture me aga91
 :5 !y w\ld cut (f my head & ?r[ my body
  into ! riv]--a ?reat :i* 0 by no means
 new to me4    ,?is s\nd$ int]e/+1 only 
! ,tibetans =got t !y w\ld h  to cat* me
 fir/6 ,! passes--bo? ! ,lippu & !      
,lumpiya 7?r\gh  ! latt] ( :i* ,i _h    
evad$ _! vigilance on my fir/           
j\rney7--71 !y /at$1 /rongly gu>d$4 ,i  
well knew !  contemptible c[>dice ( !   
,tibetans1 & ,i took b little notice (  
^! ?reats2 = ?is "t--unlike my fir/     
j\rney--,i _h tw5ty m51  all ( my own   
selection1 & !y 7 magnific5t            
fell[s--fai?ful &  plucky to q an       
unusual degree4    ,9 answ] to ^!       
,tibetan messages to ! ,gov]nm5t1 x is  
possibly  ( "s int]e/ to notice t !     
,gov]nm5t ( ! ,nor?-,we/  ,prov9ces 9   
all ha/e in=m$ ! au?orities ( ,taklakot 
9 words to  ?is effect3--    8,mr4 ,l&or
 is com+ to ,tibet4 ,possibly he w ent] 
! c\ntry4 ,!  ,gov]nm5t ( ,india has    
tak5 /eps to prev5t any m5 accompany+   

him1 also to take away 8 baggage1       
provisions1 arms1 & ammunition4  ,he w  
ent] alone & w be at y\r m]cy4 ,we !    
,gov]nm5t are  9 no way responsible = 8 
ent]+ ,tibet40    ,?is message surpris$ 
me ev5 less ?an ! ,tibetan ef=t4 ,inde$1
 ,i  well knew t no "o m ?an "s (ficials
 ( ! ,nor?-,we/  ,prov9ces wi%$ me dead4
 ,y see1 ,i _h on sev]al occasions %[n  
!m up 9 a v poor light1 & n[ aga9 ,i 0  
discov]+ fre% &  mo/ unacc\ntable       
misde$s on _! "p all along ! l9e4       
,naturally1 ,i q und]/ood t x 0 an      
uneasy consci5ce & !  fe> ( be+ expos$  
:i* prompt$ !m to act 9 su* a *ildi%    
mann] 9 ord] to prev5t my see+ :at 0 go+
 on4    ,! ,political ,ag5t1 :o 0       
con/antly receiv+ ord]s :i* he 0        
p[]less to c>ry out1 su* z arre/+       
me1--:i* ,i defi$ him to  d1--seem$ 9   
mu* di/ress1 & to relieve ! /ra9 ^u him 
,i  decid$ to cross ov] into =bidd5     
,nepal t]ritory4 ,! ,briti%  au?orities 
_h tak5 ! precaution to w>n ! ,nepalese 
also t ,i  might cross ov] _! b\nd>y1 t 

my conduct 0 n c\nt5anc$  by !          
,gov]nm5t1 & t soldi]s mu/ be s5t to /op
 me &  possibly capture me4 ,?is l$ to  
"s incid5ts :i* gave u a good  deal (   
unexpect$ m]rim5t4    ,a gu>d (         
,nepalese soldi]s 0 hurri$ up1 &1 unaw>e
 t x 0  !re1 ,i cross$ ov] ! b\nd>y1 )  
our rifles 9 _! cases =  protection     
aga9/ ! ra91 & n at all prep>$ = w>4    
,two ( my  m51 :o c>ri$ a rifle ea*1 7 a
 di/ance ahead4 ,on ne>+ a  small =t &  
gu>d-h\se !y 7 p\nc$ ^u by ,nepalese    
soldi]s  :o 7 hid+ beh9d "s rocks1 !    
rifles 7 seiz$1 & !  ,nepalese escap$ ) 
!m into ! =t up high] ^u ! hill4    ,my 
m5 ran back to me 9 a great /ate (      
excitem5t to report !  occurr5ce4 ,we   
hurri$ly prep>$ a plan ( attack1 & )\t  
los+  any "t climb$ up to ! =t4 ,^u !   
walls "s gaily attir$  figures peep$    
ov]1 br&i%+ kukris & a few obsolete     
rifles4 ,i  c\ld he> !m beh9d /r5g!n+ ! 
ha/ily b>ricad$ door4 ,an  (fic] peep$  
ov] & ask$ :at we want$4    8,i want my 
rifles back40    8,y\r rifles are n "h4 

,we h already despat*$ !m to ,katm&u0   
7! capital ( ,nepal74    8,v good4 ,if y
 d n return my rifles )9 two m9utes we w
  come & get !m ourselves40    8,we w   
fight y40    8,all "r40    ,p\nd+ ) big 
rocks & by ! aid ( a wood5 lev] we got !
  door loos5$1 & :ile ! g>rison's       
att5tion 0 direct$ to  prev5t our ent]+ 
t way1 f\r ( my be/ m5 & ,i climb$ ov]  
! wall on ! opposite side ( ! =t & cov]$
 ! def5d]s  ) our rifles4 ,i dem&$ t !y 
%\ld lay d[n _! weapons or  ,i w\ld     
%oot4 ,aft] "s indecision1 mo/ ( !m did4
 ,! o!rs1  especially "o :o fir$ at u1  
got a sev]e p\nd+ & 7 dis>m$  by my m51 
:o _h n[ all ent]$ ! =t4    ,we ransack$
 ! place1 & ev5tually recov]$ ! captur$ 
rifles1  aft] :i* we bade ! ,nepalese a 
respectful salaam & proce$$ on  our way4
    8,b10 humbly put 9 ! trembl+        
,nepalese1 8y _c travel on  ,nepal      
t]ritory4 ,x is =bidd5 to =eign]s1 & ,i 
h ord]s to  /op y40    8,v well1 d x60  
8,i _c10 he meekly mumbl$1 z he rubb$   
a*+ bruises he _h  receiv$ 9 ! enc\nt]4 

8,b10 he said1 8,i w foll[ y\r          
movem5ts40    8,oh1 y c foll[ any       
movem5ts y l1 b m9d y d n come  too     
ne>40    8,oh1 no1 no1 sahib60 he       
exclaim$4    ,! gu>d1 9 fact1 foll[$ u =
 "s days--& always at a mo/  respectful 
di/ance--until we got high up among !   
sn[s & glaci]s4  ,!n we lo/ sight ( !m4 
,anyh[1 ,i _h no fur!r annoyance all    
?r\gh my j\rney 9 ,nepal1 & f\nd ! few  
natives we saw q  attractive1           
picturesque1 & k9d4    ,aft] leav+ ! =t 
we travell$ practically s\?-ea/ ov] v   
r\gh c\ntry1 my objective be+ to visit &
 if possible climb "o (  ! ,lumpa peaks 
:i* t[]s 9 a maje/ic ne$le above mo/ o!r
  m\nta9s 9 ! neighb\rhood4 ,e n[ & !n1 
:5 we got to "s  high] po9t ( vantage1  
we got a beautiful view ( x4 ,my m5--to 
my  a/oni%m5t--receiv$ my plan )        
en?usiasm1 = !y seem$ to hold  ! sn[s 9 
v5]ation4 ,little !y !n knew h[ mu* !y  
w\ld h  to suff] ^u !m4    ,9 t portion 
( ,nor?-,we/ ,nepal ! population is     
sp>se &  some:at mix$4 ,p]haps ! f9e/ & 

mo/ int]e/+ types ,i saw  7 !           
cross-bre$s ( ,%okas & ,nepalese1 :i*   
seem$ to produce  mo/ /rik+ heads4 ,"o (
 ! col\r$ draw+s repres5t+ a  typical   
,nepalese-,%oka "y man1 ) temples %av$ &
 long wavy  hair hang+ d[n 8 back1 is1  
,i ?9k1 a good example4 ,^! m5 _h  v f9e
 traits ab\t !m1 7 mo/ hospitable &     
civil1 manly &  s]i\s 9 mann]4 ,!y 7    
ent]pris+ trad]s1 c>ry+ on a brisk      
bus9ess ma9ly 9 borax1 salt1 wool1 &    
sk9s1 :i* !y g5]ally  b>t]$ ) ,tibetans 
9 ex*ange = gra91 ghur1 & o!r food      
/uffs4    ,x is r int]e/+ to note t     
:]eas simil> fronti] tribes  on         
neighb\r+ ,briti% soil are impos$ ^u1   
tax$ & ill-us$ by  ,tibetans1 no        
int]f]5ce at all is exp]i5c$ by ^? liv+ 
"u  ! protection ( ! ,k+ ( ,nepal4      
,possibly ?is is due to ! fact  t :5    
,nepalese subjects h be5 ill-us$ 9      
,tibet an arm$  exp$ition has be5 s5t   
ov] ! fronti] by ! ,nepalese1 &         
rep>ation dem&$ & obta9$ at once4       
,nepalese wom5 are n unattractive1 hav+ 

l>ge br[n eyes1 made  additionally      
languid by black5+ ! l[] lid1 long      
eyela%es &  well-cut features1 sk9 ( a  
well-poli%$1 smoo?1 light-yell[i%  br[n1
 & mo/ graceful h&s & feet4 ,! bett]    
class are g5]ally  mu* decorat$ ) heavy 
silv] necklaces1 bracelets1 & r+s1 &  ) 
huge nose-r+s ( gold1 brass1 or silv]4  
,!y are h&some :ile  "y1 b !y fade away 
at an e>ly age1 & ! smoo? sk9 becomes   
wr9kl$ & groov$ long be=e !y are ?irty4 
,!y are said to be  mo/ affectionate1 & 
( a some:at jeal\s temp]am5t1 :i* !y    
c\ple ) extreme conjugal fidelity4    ,9
 ,we/]n ,nepal ! hair is worn 9 _m      
little plaits fe/oon$ on  bo? sides ( ! 
=ehead1 & a head-cov]1 :ite1 yell[1 or  
r$1  su* z is se5 9 ,india among ,h9doo 
wom51 is usually worn4    ,! wom5 h     
comp>ative fre$om1 & seldom are !y se5  
completely  veil$4 ,sati or suttee1 !   
wid['s self-sacrifice by ?r[+ h]self  ^u
 ! flames :i* h cremat$ h] dead husb&1  
is n[ =bidd5  by law 9 ,nepal4 ,x is1   
nev]!less1 indulg$ 9 to "s ext5t 9      

di/ricts f> away f ! capital4    ,nepal 
is pr9cipally kn[n to ,engli% p z !     
c\ntry f :i*1  by a special agreem5t1 we
 draw recruits = our ,gurkha regim5ts4  
,x  %\ld1 nev]!less1 be borne 9 m9d t n 
all p liv+ 9  ,nepal are by any means   
,gurkhas--f> f x4 ,we f9d 9 ,nepal a    
great  v>iety ( types--"s pure en\gh1   
o!rs di/9ct mixtures ( two or  m races4 
,! ,gurkha di/rict prop] lies 9 !       
nor?-ea/]ly portion ( !  ,g&ak bas91 !  
*ief city be+ ,gurkha1 "s fifty-f\r or  
fifty-five miles to ! we/ ( ! ,nepalese 
capital1 ,katm&u4    ,=m]ly ,nepal's    
sov]eignty ext5d$ ov] ,kumaon1 :i* we h 
already trav]s$1 z f> z ! ,sutlej ,riv]4
 ,! ,nepal k+dom1 z x  /&s n[1 is an    
elongat$ tract ( c\ntry--mo/ly          
m\nta9\s--"s  #ejj miles 9 l5g?1 & less 
?an #aej miles 9 bread? at its wide/    
po9ts4 ,z ev]ybody kn[s1 x is situat$ on
 ! s\!rn slopes (  ! c5tral ,himahlyan  
range1 & bord]s ) ,tibet on ! nor?1     
,kumaon 7,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ces7 to ! we/1
 ! ,kali ,riv]1 z we "k1  =m+ ! b\nd>y2 

! ,nor?-,we/ ,prov9ce & ,b5gal to ! s\?1
  & ,sikkim to ! ea/4    ,nepal is      
divid$ into ?ree natural zones by high  
ranges ) peaks  ris+ f #be1jjj to       
#bh1jjj feet1 ^! ridges %oot+ (f s\?w>ds
  f ! ma9 ,himahlyan range4 ,! ea/]n    
zone is dra9$ by ! ,kosi  ,riv]1 !      
c5tral by ! ,g&ak1 & ! ,we/]n by !      
,gogra4 ,to !  above %\ld be add$ :at is
 call$ ! ,t]ai & !  ?ickly-populat$     
,nepal ,valley1 :i*1 geographically1 mu/
 be class$  sep>ately4 ,=m]ly ,nepal 0  
divid$ into tw5ty-f\r pr9cipalities  9  
addition to ! ,gurkha k+dom1 b s9ce !   
invasion by ! latt]  ( ! entire c\ntry  
!y h be5 divid$ into five prov9ces--viz4
  ,gurkha1 ,malibam1 ,palpa1 ,pokra1 &  
,kha*i4    ,9 ! space at my disposal ,i 
_c ent] into ! hi/ory nor g into  a     
detail$ description ( ! _m tribes :i*   
inhabit ,nepal1 b  g5]ally speak+1 9 !  
aborig9al /ock a ,mongolian orig9 is    
evid5t1 p>ticul>ly 9 ! population ( !   
c5tral zone1 :]e  rec5t ,tibetan        
influ5ce is m>k$2 b ?is is n ! case ) ! 

inhabitants ( ! l[] region1 :o seem to h
 desc5d$ p>tly f  a mixture ( an e>li]  
,tibetan & ,aryan s\rce4 ,p]haps among !
  mo/ prom95t aborig9al tribes we %\ld  
m5tion ! ,mag>s1 ,gurungs1  ,new>s1     
,sunw>s1 ! ,khambas or ,khambus1 &      
,yakhas 7! latt] two  closely resembl+  
,rais71 ! ,yak?umbas1 ,murmis1 &        
,lep*as4 ,!n 9  ! =e/s ( ,we/]n ,nepal  
we f9d to ?is day wild tribes (         
,*epangs & ,kasundas4    ,9 ! ,t]ai     
di/rict live ! ,t>us1 a s]vile &        
ill-%ap$ p  ( no great /r5g? ( "*2 9 !  
ea/]n zone we h ,limbus1  a "n :i*      
practically includes ,kirantis1 ,ekas1 &
 ,rais--a p (  app>5tly ,tibetan orig91 
flat-fac$1 be>dless1 & ) long  unplait$ 
hair1 :o we> wide tr\s]s & a %ort jacket
 in/ead (  ! long coat ( ! ,lep*as4     
,! c5tral zone1 f :i* mo/ ( ! recruits =
 ! ,briti%  ,gurkha regim5ts are drawn1 
is inhabit$ by a small b /rongly built1 
w>like1 & plucky p1 ! ,mag>s & ,gurungs1
 ! ,mag>s be+ 9  _! turn subdivid$ into 
six di/9ct tribes1 ( :i* ! ,?apa  tribe 

is ! mo/ num]\s4 ,bo? ! ,mag>s & !      
,gurungs--:o are  some:at tall] & m     
/\tly built ?an ! ,mag>s--al?\gh (  m>k$
 ,mongolian *>act]i/ics1 are by religion
 ,brahm9s1 b h no  sort ( /rong ca/e    
prejudices su* z "o f9ds1 = in/ance1 9  
,india4 ,gay & simple-m9d$1 ) he>ts (   
gold1 fai?ful &  ob/9ate to an extreme  
degree1 indep5d5t 9 !mselves yet loyal  
to  _! fri5ds or employ]s1 fond ( fight+
 & possess+ ! c\rage  ( lions1 ^! fell[s
 make wond]ful soldi]s inde$4 ,p]haps 9 
_m  ways !y are n unlike ! ,japanese1   
bo? 9 appe>ance &  temp]am5t1 except t !
 physique ( ! ,gurkha is ! sup]ior (  ! 
two4    ,9 ! ,valley ( ,nepal--or ,nepal
 prop]--we f9d mo/ly ,new>s &  ,murmis4 
,! ,new>s1 :o claim to be ! aborig9es ( 
! ,nepal ,valley1  are 9 _m ways n      
unlike ! ,bhotias or ,%okas1 & 9 _m ( _!
  cu/oms & 9 _! habitations %[ a m>k$   
simil>ity to ^?  tribes ( ,mongolian    
desc5t4 ,_! language resembles ,tibetan1
 &  _! religion is a modifi$ =m (       
inh]it$ ,buddhism4 ,! ,new>s are  mu*   

giv5 to agricultural pursuits1 & !y d n 
display s  prom95tly ! fight+ qualities 
( ! ,mag>s & ,gurungs4 ,on !  contr>y1  
!y seem to devote all _! en]gy to art & 
trade1 (  :i* !y seem to h ! entire     
monopoly 9 ,nepal4 ,! ,murmis  resemble 
,bhotias ev5 m closely ?an ! ,new>s4 ,!y
 are subdivid$  into two classes--!     
,b>a?amang1 :i* is ! mo/ num]\s1 & !    
,a?>ajat4    ,katm&u1 ! capital ( ,nepal
 & resid5ce ( ! ,k+ &  ,gov]nm5t1 lies 9
 ?is valley1 & is a city ( great size & 
"s  beauty4    ,! ,t]ai is inhabit$ by a
 poor1 sickly-look+ race call$ ! ,t>us1 
mal>ial fev] be+ rampant 9 _! di/rict1  
:ile wild bea/s  ab\nd 9 ! jungle4 ,!y  
seem to be a pov]ty-/rick5 lot ) a      
wret*$ physique--al?\gh end[$ ) a/\nd+  
/r5g? & p[]s  ( endurance4 ,!y divide _!
 "t betwe5 fi%+1 agriculture1 &  hunt+  
wild animals4    ,n[ comes ! we/]n zone1
 :i* is entirely inhabit$ by non-,gurkha
  tribes1 su* z ! ,doti & ,jumli 7!     
,doti's c\ntry be+ s\? (  ! ,jumli's71 z
 well z by wild] tribes1 su* z !        

,*epangs &  ,kusundas1 ! =m] be+ v      
simil> to ! ,raots or ,rajis (  ,kumaon4
 ,!n !re are m9or ,h9duis$ tribes       
g5]ically kn[n z  ,p>batiyas 7or hill   
m574                  ,,*apt] ,,vi      
,! religion1 cu/oms1 mann]s1 & fa%ions (
 dress ( ! v>i\s  tribes compos+ !      
population ( ,nepal v>y to q a          
consid]able  ext5t1 & ,i h "h n ! space 
to g into !m fully4 ,b ,i w  quote a    
few4    ,! ,brahm9s diff] little f _!   
co-religioni/s ( ,india1 except  t !y   
are n s /rict 9 ! obs]vance (           
prejudices2 ! =m  ( ,buddhism practis$  
closely resembles t ( ,tibet4           
,sup]/itions  are rampant1 bo? among    
,brahm9s & ,buddhi/s1 & ( c\rse ev5 m  s
 among ! wild] tribes4    ,! ,gurkhas1  
on ! occasion ( ! bir? ( a *ild1 indulge
 9  rejoic+s = elev5 consecutive days1 !
 fa!r be+ re/rict$ to  ! company ( 8    
relatives only4 ,on ! elev5? day a "n is
 giv5  to ! (fspr+4 ,! *ild is suckl$ by
 ! "m = a  comp>atively %ort p]iod ( "t1
 :5 a fe/ival & d9n] are  giv51 ! *ild  

be+ made to swall[ a gra9 ( rice f ea*  
fri5d4    ,m>riages are1 z 9 ,india1    
arrang$ at a v e>ly age1 sometimes  :5  
*ildr5 are n m ?an six or sev5 ye>s old1
 ! betro?al  tak+ place a ye> or two    
be=e4 ,wid[s _c m>ry aga91 b a  wid[] c4
 ,divorces c be obta9$ 9 "s tribes1 by  
some:at  simple me?ods1 b fidelity is "o
 ( ! *ief virtues ( ,nepalese  wom51 & x
 is seldom t sep>ation takes place4     
,besides1 divorces  are a v exp5sive    
luxury4 ,moreov]1 an unfai?ful wife may 
f9d  h]self 9 prison = life1 :]eas !    
co-respond5t is h&$ to !  m]cy ( !      
husb&1 :o is expect$ to 8*op him up0 9  
public )  8 vici\s-look+ kukri4 ,!y say 
t ! (f5d]'s life may be  sp>$ if he     
submits to crawl "u ! husb&'s leg1 rais$
 = !  occasion1 a mo/ humiliat+         
alt]native seldom accept$4    ,z 9      
,india1 among ,brahm9 tribes1 a great _m
 misde$s ( vanity or  brea*es (         
ca/e-rules are =giv5 on paym5ts 9 ca% to
 !  prie/s1 or ! giv+ ( ! usual fea/ &  
fe$4    ,! cu/om ( %av+ ! head1 m\/a*e1 

& eyebr[s 9 sign (  m\rn+ at ! dea? (   
ne> relations is foll[$ by ! ,brahm9    
tribes1 & ! body ( ! deceas$ is buri$ & 
n cremat$4  ,sev]al non-,brahm9 tribes1 
h[ev]1 cremate _! dead4    ,! ,gurkhas  
:o are recruit$ = ! ,briti% army are    
ne>ly all  ,mag>s & ,gurungs1 !y be+    
consid]$ ! be/ fight+ mat]ial4  ,memb]s 
( ! ,khas tribe are enli/$ solely = !   
#i? ,gurkha  regim5t4 ,recruit+ p>ties  
are s5t out f e regim5t :i*  recruits = 
itself1 & ^! br+ d[n _! recruits to !   
dpt  at ,g>akpur4 ,"h a prim>y m$ical   
inspection takes place1 &  clo?+ is     
issu$ to ! m5 be=e !y are despat*$ to _!
  future corps4 ,!y we> a d>k gre5 uni=m
 ) black or r$ fac+s1  & are arm$ )     
,m>t9i-,h5ry rifles1 a bayonet1 & a     
kukri4    ,! ,gurkha ,brigade consi/$ 9 
#ahii ( ! #a/1 #bnd1 #crd1 #d?1 #e?1    
#i?1 #dbnd1 #dcrd1 & #dd? ,regim5ts4 ,! 
fir/ five regim5ts h two  battalions2 ! 
#i?1 #dbnd1 #dcrd1 #dd? are s+le        
battalions4 ,!re are  eight ,briti%     
(fic]s to ea* battalion 7plus "s o!rs   

atta*$71 a  m$ical (fic]1 & sixte5      
,gurkha (fic]s4    ,! m5 are1 z a rule1 
excell5t %ots1 fond ( sport ( all k9ds1 
& passionate fi%]m5 & %ik>is1 kn[+      
in/9ctively &  intimately ! habits ( mo/
 animals4 ,!y are h>dy1 *e]y1 &  will+  
to obey1 b dete/ 8nagg+40 ,!y are devot$
 to _!  (fic]s & pr\d ( _! corps2 &1    
tak+ ?+s all r\nd1  possibly !y may be  
put d[n z ! mo/ loyal native troops we h
  9 ,india4 ,!y "k no fe>4 ,if an ord]ly
 7 by *ance to leave an  (fic] dead or  
w\nd$1 ei!r 9 ! field or out on a sport+
  exp$ition1 he w\ld lose 8 ca/e1 be    
g5]ally boycott$1 & v  likely kill$ by 8
 comrades4    ,! ,gurkhas are invet]ate 
gambl]s & fond ( all games1 %[+  great  
quickness 9 le>n+ ,briti% games1 at :i* 
!y become q  pr(ici5t--football         
p>ticul>ly4    ,!y are sup]/iti\s beyond
 measure1 good or evil spirits play+ an 
important "p 9 e day's occurr5ces4 ,?us 
a/rolog]s f9d pl5ty  ( remun]ative      
occupation 9 pr$ict+ ev5ts & %[+ h[ to  
propitiate c]ta9 demons r ?an o!rs4     

,a curi\s feature ( ^! fight]s is _!    
t5d] affection =  fl[]s4 ,inde$1 !re are
 _m t5d] /r+s to ! he>t ( a  ,gurkha4   
,!y are devot$ to _! families1 & mo/    
g5tle & suave  9 _! home mann]s4 ,!y are
 jeal\s ( _! wom51 :om !y d  n beat nor 
usually turn into bea/s ( burd5 l !     
natives (  ,india1 & !y %[ great pride 9
 display+ _! wom5-folks load$  )        
jewell]y f head to foot4 ,! wom5 are q  
pretty1 *e]y1  & d n exhibit ! affect$  
%yness ( ! wom5 ( ! ,indian  pla9s1 =   
in/ance4    ,"o ( ! mo/ notable features
 ab\t a ,gurkha is ! m>vell\s skill  )  
:i* he h&les 8 heavy-blad$ kukri4 ,x may
 be said t f  ! days ( 8 *ildhood1 s9ce 
z soon z 8 little h&s become  /rong     
en\gh to lift "o1 he is nev] )\t "o2    
h5ce1 :5 old]1  he is v adept 9 its     
manifold uses4 ,) "o ( ^? knives        
,gurkhas  c cut a buffalo's head (f at  
"o /roke2 & !y c make fairly  good %ots1
 at consid]able di/ance1 :5 ?r[+ !      
kukri4 ,!y c  use x 9 su* delicate "w z 
%ap+ a too?pick or %>p5+ a  p5cil4 ,) x 

!y *op firewood1 & use x freely z a     
cook+  ut5sil4    ,:5 go+ be>-hunt+ !y  
w9d a blanket r\nd ! left arm &  c>ry a 
load$ /ick 9 ! "r h&1 ! kukri be+ held  
betwe5  ! tee? or ?ru/ 9 ! girdle 9     
front4 ,:5 ! be> gets on 8  h9d-legs to 
close ) !m1 !y hit him on ! nose 7be+ ! 
t5d]e/ spot71 &1 be=e he has "t to      
recov] f ! pa9 &  a/oni%m5t1 !y poli%   
him (f ) _! knives4    ,!y delight 9 !  
company ( tame animals1 su* z dogs or   
birds4  ,!y are fond ( smok+ & dr9k+--& 
!y c /& a lot--a fact  :i* makes !m     
great *ums ) ,briti% :ite soldi]s4 ,!y  
simply  adore ,tommy ,atk9s1 especially 
if he be a ,highl&] or a rifleman1 &  !y
 delight 9 8 company2 b !y %[ ! utmo/   
contempt--racial  & g5]al--= ! natives (
 ,india4 ,_! unb\nd$ conceit is easily  
=giv5 & c\nt]balanc$ by _! extreme      
tru?fulness & hone/y1  especially :5    
fir/ recruit$4    ,_m ,gurkha regim5ts h
 = "s ye>s tak5 up ! sy/em (  tra9+ a   
few pick$ m5 ( good physique & sight1 & 
( unusual  agility & sport+ in/9cts1 z  

recognis$ sc\ts4 ,!y are clad  m lightly
 ?an ord9>y soldi]s--g5]ally 9 8cut     
%ort0 football  knick]s4 ,besides !     
sc\ts' duty ( discov]+ ! enemy's /r5g?  
& position1 !y are also us$ z %>p%oot]s1
 & specially  in/ruct$ = /alk+ 8snip]s0 
at night4 ,:5 9 ,india ,i _h !  pleasure
 ( inspect+ ! sc\ts comm&$ by ,lieut5ant
 ,g4 ,k5dall  ,*ann]1 ( ! #a/ ,battalion
 #crd ,gurkhas1 & ,i 0 mu* impress$ by  
!m & by ! bus9ess-l qualities ( ! (fic]s
 & m54                  ,,*apt] ,,vii   
,at ! village ( ,*ongur 9 ,nepal ,i 0   
able to pur*ase "s extra  blankets &    
%oes = my m51 z f ?is po9t we %\ld soon 
come  among ! sn[s1 :]e we %\ld rema9 = 
"s "t4 ,up to an  altitude ( #aa1jjj    
feet we travell$ among firs1 & on v %>p1
  slipp]y slopes )\t a trail4 ,on a bit 
( level pa/ure-l& we came  across two   
,jumli annuals or %eph]ds ) "s %eep4 ,!y
 7  curi\s types1 wild & unkempt1 )     
%aggy hair fl[+ ^u _!  face & %\ld]s4 ,i
 d n ?9k t ,i h ev] se5 m5 m  abruti--to
 use a ,fr5* expression :i* fits !m     

p]fectly--?an ^?  two4 ,%iv]+ f cold1   
ill-clad1 liv+ on roots & :atev] !y     
c\ld pick up1 :i* 0 n mu*1 !y 7 inde$ ! 
v picture (  mis]y & wret*$ness4 ,:5 !y 
_h recov]$ f _! fright at  our approa*1 
,i gave !m "s food :i* w\ld la/ !m "s   
"t1  & _! gratitude knew no b\nds4      
,f>!r on we met a ,nepalese woman c>ry+ 
a *ild slung 9 a basket  ^u h] back1    
:ile ! husb& walk$ peacefully beh9d4 ,:5
 !  cam]a 0 po9t$ at ! c\ple !y 7 s     
di/urb$ t ! woman  dropp$ basket & *ild 
& took to h] heels d[n a mo/ precipit\s 
slope1 :ile h] bett] half ran away f u1 
also full spe$1 b on  a less dang]\s    
r\te4    ,f>!r on1 z we got high] up1 we
 enc\nt]$ m %eph]ds1 9 z  pitiable a    
condition z ! fir/ we _h se51 hav+ ne>ly
 lo/ _!  p[] ( spee* ?r\gh lead+ a      
lonely life among ^! m\nta9s4  ,!y all  
suff]$ f fev] & rheumatism2 "s f goitre 
?r\gh  dr9k+ sn[ wat]4    ,! m>*+ 0 v   
heavy1 especially = my m5 :o c>ri$      
loads2  my pony1 ( c\rse1 _h to be      
ab&on$ long be=e ?is1 & ,i _h  s5t him  

d[n to l[] elevations 9 *>ge ( my sayce4
    ,we 7 n[ ne>+ ! magnific5t ,api     
,m\nta91 & we soon came to  ! mora9e ( !
 glaci]4 ,we rea*$ ! glaci]--:i* ,i nam$
 !  ,elfrida ,l&or ,glaci]--at sunset1 &
 x 0 inde$ a mo/ beautiful  sight ) its 
huge walls ( cle> ice 9 irregul>        
t]races1 portions  only be+ 9 brok5-up  
heaps4 ,at ! sides1 mud ( a greyi% col\r
  & brok5 ice bord]$ ! worn1 erod$ rock 
d[n to ! level ( !  valley :]e ! glaci] 
lies4    ,! glaci] lies f ,n4,e4,e4 to  
,s4,w4,w41 ) two high peaks1 "o to !    
,n4,n4,w41 ! o!r to ! ,s4,s4,e41 ! latt]
 be+ kn[n z ! ,api  ,m\nta94 ,two sn[-f$
 /reams desc5d f ! glaci]1 &1 jo9+  into
 a rapid torr5t1 become a tribut>y ( !  
,lumpa ,riv]4 ,!  natives call all ^!   
glaci]s by ! g5]ic t]m ,%o-gal1 or 8sn[ 
glaci]40    ,! village ( ,*ongur c\ld be
 di/+ui%$ 9 ! f> di/ance to  ! ,n4,w4 ( 
u1 d[n1 d[n bel[ 9 ! valley ( ! ,kali2 &
 to !  ,n4,n4,w4 we obta9$ a panoramic  
view ( ! ,kuti ,riv] valley1 ) !        
conical ,bitroego> ,m\nta9 & a high peak

 to ! ,n4,n4,e4 ,ev5 bel[  #ac1jjj feet 
! vegetation _h become v sp>se1 b pat*es
 ( %ort  grass 7 f\nd up to #af1jjj     
feet4 ,above t all 0 absolutely  b>r51 &
 g5]ally cov]$ ) sn[4 ,9 ! high valley  
we _h  foll[$1 :atev] trees we f\nd 7   
wea!r-beat5 & half-burnt by  ! sn[ &    
cold w9ds ( ! w9t] mon?s4 ,= long       
di/ances we  occasionally walk$ on ?ick 
b$s ( wild /rawb]ries4 ,^! high  valleys
 are consid]$ good pa/ure-l& by !       
,%okas1 :o s5d _!  %eep = graz+ 9 *>ge (
 annuals1 su* z ^? we _h met4    ,! foot
 ( ! glaci] :]e we pit*$ our t5t 0 at an
 elevation  ( #ac1ijj feet1 & !         
temp]ature %ortly be=e sunset n high]   
?an #cc ,fahr5heit4    ,p]haps to ^? :o 
h nev] slept on ! ice ( a glaci] x may  
be  int]e/+ to "k :at x feels l4 ,b>r+ a
 c]ta9 *ill9ess  :i* anybody c imag9e1 a
 fir/ night on a glaci] has _m          
surprises4 ,i say 8fir/ night10 because 
we sp5t a great _m1 & we  got accu/om$  
to ! weird noises :i* kept u awake & 9  
"s  susp5se on ! fir/ visit4 ,inde$1 a  

,himahlyan glaci] seems to be  ! home ( 
noises ( all k9ds4 ,! w9d bl[+ among !  
p9nacles  & recesses produces weird     
melodies l solos & imm5se *oruses (     
human voices2 y c he> %rill :i/l+ all   
r\nd y :5 %>p]  blades ( ice cut !      
curr5t ( air1 & ro>s l ^? ( wild  bea/s1
 only /rong]1 :5 ! w9d p5etrates into "s
 deep cavity4  ,no soon] 7 y clos+ y\r  
eyes aga9 = a mu*-want$ sleep ?an       
?und]1 s l\d t x made y jump1 />tl$ y1 b
 :5 y  peep$ out ( ! t5t !re 7 brilliant
 />s & a limpid sky  ev]y:]e above y4   
,sleepy z y 71 y c\ld n resi/--at  lea/1
 ,i c\ld n1 & ,i am n mu* ( a />-gaz]--!
 temptation to  gaze at ! />s & planets4
 ,9 ! r>efi$ & limpid air !y  %[$ l huge
 diamonds1 & gave q en\gh light to see  
all r\nd  "o1 ev5 :5 !re 0 no moon4     
,inde$1 no "o :o has nev] be5 to        
exceptionally high elevations has an    
idea ( ! beauty ( />s4 ,!y  appe> sev]al
 times l>g] ?an !y d :5 se5 f ,london or
  ,p>is1 = in/ance1 & ! magnific5ce ( _!
 ev]-*ang+  col\rs is indescribable4    

,well1 !re 0 poetry en\gh 9 t1 b y 7    
soon awak5$ f  y\r contemplation by "s  
unexpect$ explosion :i* made y ?9k  !   
:ole l&scape be=e y mu/ h be5 bl[n up4  
,b no1 !re  7 no visible signs (        
commotion ar\nd4 ,x 0 m]ely a new       
crevasse1 "s hundr$s ( feet deep1       
splitt+1 = "s reason1  climatic or o!r1 
9 ! ice4 ,con/ant rumbl+s y he>d1 ne> & 
di/ant2 & y only _h to close y\r eyes & 
y c\ld imag9e  y\rself 9 a =e/ ) ! w9d  
ru/l+ among ! trees1 or !  pleasant s\nd
 ( a wat]fall close by1 or an olian h>p 
be+ play$  by a div9e h&4    ,e*oes1 (  
c\rse1 !re are by ! doz5 on m\nta9s1 &  
ea* s\nd  is repeat$ ov] & ov] aga9 till
 x fades away4 ,an occasional  b\ld]    
gets loose f ! rott$ rock up on ! m\nta9
 side1 & is  precipitat$ ) b\nd+ leaps  
on to ! ice ( ! glaci]2 a huge  "o      
weigh+ "s tons came d[n t night & miss$ 
our t5t by n  v _m y>ds4 ,my m5 said !  
spirits ( ! m\nta9s 7 do+  all ?is = our
 special b5efit1 to see :e!r we 7 brave 
or n6  ,! big b\ld] !y _h flung at &    

purposely miss$ u to %[ u  _! p[]s1 b n 
to hurt u4 ,?is 0 a good sign4 8,! gods 
are  ) u10 !y /at$2 b int]nally ,i      
he>tily pray$ t we might  h no m 8good  
signs0 ( t nature4    ,:ile ,i 0 try+ to
 make "s hot *ocolate ) a small         
_s-/ove1 my m5 7 busy pack+ up1 !y be>+ 
! discom=t  ) "s consid]able pluck4 ,we 
_h n be5 able to make a fire1 &  we _h n
 ! prospect ( see+ _m = "s weeks to     
come4 ,i always  f\nd *ocolate ! mo/    
useful & su/a9+ food = m\nta9e]+        
purposes1 & ,i c>ri$ any numb] ( tablets
 9 my pockets4 ,on !  m>* ,i con/antly  
ate x2 food1 ,i f\nd1 keep+ "o's /r5g?  
up &  be+ m easily dige/$ "u ^?         
circum/ances1 if spread 9  small        
quantities ov] ! entire day1 ?an if eat5
 9 l>ge quantities  twice or ?ree times 
a day at giv5 h\rs4 ,i _h my *ocolate   
specially  prep>$ ) a p]c5tage ( meat & 
fat1 :i* gave x additional  n\ri%m5t4 ,=
 days & days at a "t ,i liv$ on *ocolate
 only1 x  be+ impossible to cook food1 &
 deem+ x r dang]\s to eat  t9n$ meats   

cold4    ,i 0 able to ov]come ! ca/e    
scruples ( my m51 & !y1 too1  p>took    
freely ( my *ocolate1 al?\gh ,i nev] let
 !m "k t x  conta9$ beef4 ,_h !y kn[n   
?is1 mo/ ( !m w\ld h lo/ _!  ca/e4 ,!y  
ate x because !y believ$ x entirely     
prep>$ by  ma*9]y & n t\*$ by unclean   
h&s6    ,i 0 sorry :5 we /ruck camp &   
left beh9d ! beautiful glaci]  & ,api   
,mt41 #ai1iai feet4 ,we soon rose ov] a 
pass 7#ac1jej feet7 :]e  we obta9$ a    
view ( a second glaci]1 almo/ z f9e z ! 
fir/1 9  precipit\s t]races1 & ) a      
gigantic t]m9al mora9e1 cov]$ 9  great  
"p by dbris & rott5 rock1 fall5 f !     
m\nta9 at !  side4 ,?is ,i call$ !      
,armida ,glaci]4 ,x spread 9 a direction
 f  ,n4,e4 to ,s4,w4 ,to ! we/ ( !      
glaci] on ! m\nta9 side !re 0  h>dly any
 sn[ up to #af1jjj feet1 b to ! ea/1 z  
"o look$  t[>ds x1 !re 7 huge masses4   
,! entire valley ( ! ,lumpa riv] along  
:i* we 7 travell+  made "p ( a gigantic 
glaci]1 ) side glaci]s su* z ^? we  h   
se54 ,9 ! l[] portion ( ! valley ! ice 0

 cov]$ )  dbris4    ,at ! foot ( !      
,armida ,glaci] 7 "s imm5se p>allel     
crevasses  9 ! ice4 ,! upp] portion ( ^!
 0 a mixture ( d>k grey mud  & rock     
emb$d$ 9 ! ice1 %[+ v]tical /reaks &    
corrugations4 ,!n !re 7 "s curi\s pits 9
 ! mora9e1 su* z  ! "o %[n 9 !          
illu/ration1 funnel-%ap$ & ( great dep?1
  "s #fj feet deep & m1 & ab\t #ajj feet
 9 diamet]4 ,^!  funnels1 cone-%ap$1 _h 
a great fasc9ation--q an irresi/ible    
attraction--:5 "o look$ into !m4 ,! ice1
 ( a beautiful light  gre5 col\r1 0     
corrugat$ into grooves conv]g+ t[>ds !  
c5tre  at ! bottom1 :]e a deep hole 0   
g5]ally to be f\nd4 ,! ridges  ( !      
myriads ( grooves reflect$ 9 a l9e (    
silv] ! rays ( !  sun1 & ^! _m dazzl+   
lum9\s /reaks all conv]g+ t[>ds  "o po9t
 _h q an hypnotic effect on "s ( my m   
highly /rung  m54 ,"o man became q giddy
 9 look+ d[n1 & v ne>ly w5t  ov]1 &     
sev]al o!r m5 exp]i5c$ a /rong desire to
 precipitate  !mselves into ^! pits4    
,i puzzl$ my head a great deal to f9d   

out exactly h[ ^! funnels  7 produc$1 & 
! only plausible explanation seem$ t "s 
b\ld] fall5 f ! m\nta9 side _h1 ow+ to  
its sun-absorb$  high temp]ature1       
gradually bor$ a hole into ! ice4 ,!    
walls ( !  cyl9drical hole1 becom+ 9 _! 
turn expos$ to ! /rong  sunlight1 w5t   
?r\gh a process ( melt+1 ! heat affect+ 
!  upp] portion to a mu* great] ext5t   
?an f>!r d[n1 :]e !  /r5g? ( ! sun's    
rays w\ld be mitigat$ by ! influ5ce on !
  temp]ature ( ! air by ! surr\nd+ ice4 
,?us ! quick] melt+  ( ! upp] portion   
comp>$ ) ! l[] w\ld at once h a  t5d5cy 
to produce ! conical %ape ( ! funnels4  
,!n1 ( c\rse1 ! grooves 9 ! ice are     
produc$ by ! wat] (  ! melt+ surface ice
 fl[+ d[n4 ,9 fact1 9 ! daytime1 !  l[] 
c5tre hole1 :i* _h v]tical walls1 0     
almo/ inv>iably  fill$ ) wat]4          
,p]haps1 to avoid ! absurd criticisms ( 
fault-discov]+ critics  7:i* criticisms 
arise m]ely f _! own appall+ & fanta/ic 
ignorance71 x may be z well to rem9d !  
read] t ! sun's rays1  ev5 at v great   

elevations & among quantities ( sn[ &   
ice1 c  be v p[]ful--#he1 #ij1 & ev5 m4 
,?is p>ticul>ly if !  region 9 :i* "o is
 travell+ is1 z 0 t :]e we 71 9 a       
latitude nor? ( #cj #d #j only f !      
,equator4 ,naturally1 ! drop  9 !       
temp]ature :5 ! sun disappe>s is        
enorm\s1 f #fj to  #ajj be+ no?+ v      
exceptional4 ,?is also applies 9 a less]
  degree betwe5 ! sun & %ade 9 !        
daytime4 ,:5 m>*+1 =  in/ance1 due nor? 
or s\? 9 ^? regions1 x is n unusual to  
h "o's anatomy roa/+ on ! side :]e x is 
/ruck by ! sun1  & to be half-froz5 on !
 o!r side4    ,we cont9u$ our j\rney ^u 
! mora9e ( ! ma9 glaci]1 avoid+  z mu* z
 we c\ld ! dang]\s cracks & trea*]\s    
holes4  ,half-way up ! ma9 glaci] we 7  
at an altitude ( #ac1fjj feet4 ,on      
desc5d+ "s #djj feet we came to a pla9  
:]e9 grew rhub>b &  "s turnips1 ! =m]   
wild1 ! latt] plant$ by ,nepalese       
%eph]ds4 ,!re 71 9 fact1 ?ree t9y %elt]s
 ( /ones & mud  :]e ! poor wret*es _h   
liv$4 ,we 7 mu* rejoic$ at f9d+  "s     

%rubs we c\ld use z fuel4 ,! glaci] we 7
 leav+ beh9d  0 sep>at$ f ?is valley by 
a high dune ( mud & dbris4    ,aft]     
cross+ a /ream we came to a ?ird1 !     
,m>tia ,glaci]1 "s  #ae1ejj feet above  
sea-level4 ,?is glaci] 0 n q s          
impressive  z ! o!r two1 b x 01         
nev]!less1 a mo/ beautiful bas9  fill$ )
 masses ( cle> ice 9 irregul> t]races4  
,a great mora9e  ext5d$ "h across !     
valley f ! glaci]1 =m+ a ridge :i*  we  
_h to climb 9 ord] to proce$ on our     
j\rney4 ,!re seem$ to be  traces ( iron 
9 ! dbris ( ! mora9e z well z 9 ! rocks 
(  ! m\nta9s ar\nd1 & ^u ! gigantic     
b\ld]s :i* _h be5  %ot d[n ^u ! ice4    
,on ! opposite side ( ! ,lumpa /ream to 
! "o on :i* we /ood1  j be=e rea*+ !    
?ird glaci]1 7 high v]tical rocks (     
brilliant col\r+4 ,to ! s\?-ea/ ( !     
glaci] at ! foot 0  ! usual dune1 & we  
aga9 f\nd a great _m gigantic pits1 all 
)  wat] at ! bottom4    ,we came to a v 
dang]\s crevasse :i* we c\ld n cross1 & 
we  _h to make a consid]able det\r4 ,!  

edge on :i* we _h got seem$  on ! po9t (
 giv+ way1 & might h collaps$ at any    
mom5t4  ,:]e ! surface ice 0 cov]$ by   
dbris x %[$ graceful  undulations &     
well-r\nd$ m\nds1 b occasionally !re 7  
high]  hillocks ( conical %ape & q      
po9t$4    ,/ill travell+ ^u ! mora9e ( !
 ,lumpa ,glaci] we arriv$ at  la/ at !  
spot :]e ! ,lumpa riv] has its bir?1    
dripp+ g5tly  f ! glaci]4 ,"h1 too1 !   
ice ) ! ov]ly+ dbris %[$  9 its g5]al   
l9es ! peculi> sweep+ curves noticeable 
9 all  ^! glaci]s1 ! section to ! ea/   
be+1 9 ?is p>ticul>  glaci]1 an         
exception to ! rule1 & exhibit+ a       
disord]ly mass (  dbris & huge blocks ( 
ice4    ,we _h rea*$ a po9t :]e a       
bifurcation occurr$1 "o arm ( !  glaci] 
ext5d+ to #afj be>+s magnetic           
7,s4,s4,e471 ! o!r &  pr9cipal "o to    
#abj be>+s magnetic1 t[>ds ! ,lumpa     
,m\nta94    ,we select$ ?is spot to make
 our camp1 & a v cold camp x 01  too4   
,we pit*$ our t5t alongside a big rock1 
& ) fuel we _h  br\ght up1 tri$1 aft]   

sund[n1 to make a fire inside ! t5t 9   
ord] to keep ourselves w>m4 ,b we 7     
ne>ly suffocat$ by !  smoke4 ,dur+ !    
night1 :ile my m5 7 asleep--& ! fire    
gone  out--,i *ang$ ! plates 9 ?ree     
magaz9e cam]as1 =ty-eight plates        
altoge!r2 a job :i* ) semi-froz5 &      
trembl+ f+]s1 &  c>eful pack+ (         
negatives already expos$1 took me ! be/ 
"p (  two h\rs4 ,inde$1 "o ( ! great    
tortures ( exploration 9 cold  climates1
 is ! imm5se c>e ) :i* "o mu/ nurse "o's
 survey+  & o!r in/rum5ts "u mo/ adv]se 
circum/ances1 & !  inexpressible tr\ble 
:i* photography1 if done s]i\sly1       
involves4  ,= simil> k9d ( "w ,i always 
f\nd plates inf9itely m reliable  ?an   
films2 b1 ( c\rse1 ) !m ! use ( a r$    
lant]n becomes  imp]ative1 & (t5 leads  
to ! use ( a good deal ( bad language4  
,if y adopt an oil-lant]n ! oil gets    
froz5 into a solid mass1 &  x is some:at
 tr\blesome to keep ! lant]n burn+1     
:]eas c&les  h o!r disadvantages4 ,z =  
feel+ ! film side ) y\r  f+]s1 & *ang+  

plates 9 ! d>k1 x is1 ( c\rse1 out ( !  
"q :5 y\r h&s are too cold4    ,maybe   
ano!r h9t :5 m\nta9e]+ at great         
altitudes w be  useful to y4 ,nev] use a
 wat]pro( sleep+-bag1 su* z ^? y  see   
adv]tis$ & recomm5d$1 z ! v ?+ y want on
 a  m\nta94 ,if y d1 & ! night is a cold
 "o1 y w f9d  y\rself & y\r blankets    
soak$ 9 cond5s$ moi/ure f ! heat  ( y\r 
body com+ 9 contact ) ! cold wat]pro(   
%eet1 ?r\gh  :i* x is unable to escape4 
,( c\rse x is wise to use a wat]pro(    
%eet to lie on "u "o's blankets4    ,on 
t p>ticul> night1 feel+ extra cold & n  
?9k+ (  consequ5ces1 ,i wrapp$ myself   
up1 ov] my blankets1 9 a wat]pro(4  ,!  
results 7 disa/r\s4 ,ev]y?+ got dr5*$1  
&1 :5 ,i got  up1 blankets & clo!s      
became solid %eets ( ice6               
,,*apt] ,,viii      ,hav+ se5 t all my  
in/rum5ts 7 9 good condition1 ,i select$
  ab\t a doz5 ( my /ronge/ m5 to        
accompany me on my asc5t on "o  ( !     
,lumpa peaks4 ,x _h be5 sleet+ & sn[+   
dur+ ! night1  & :5 ,i r\s$ my m5 %ortly

 be=e five 9 ! morn+ !re 0 a  ?ick mi/  
:i* seem$ to p5etrate to ! v m>r[ ( "o's
 bones4  ,) *att]+ tee? & a *illy nose1 
we got all ?+s ready1 &  brew$ a p>t+   
cup ( hot tea1 aft] :i* we set out on   
our err&1  ! o!r m5 rema9+ to take c>e (
 ! camp4    ,e n[ & !n ! w9d cle>$ !    
mi/1 & we c\ld see a  bright1 cle> sky  
above u :i* gave u hope t we might h a  
f9e  day4 ,i am n a believ] 9 e>ly ris+2
 z a rule eight or n9e  o'clock is my   
fav\rite h\r = />t+ on a m>*1 :5 ! sun  
is  already high above ! horizon4 ,y !n 
/>t (f 9 com=t1 in/ead  ( wak+ ) an     
angry feel+ t y are be+ done out ( "s   
h\rs' sleep4 ,on ?is occasion1 h[ev]1 we
 _h su* a long di/ance to  cov]1 & 9 all
 probability tr\blesome & dang]\s m>*+  
be=e  u1 t ,i wi%$ to h z _m h\rs (     
daylight be=e me z  possible4    ,no    
soon] _h we />t$1 foll[+ ! ma9 glaci] 9 
a direction (  #abj1 ?an a ?ick fog set 
9 :i* made progress some:at tr\blesome4 
,x seem$ to get ?ick] & ?ick] z we 7    
ris+ high] ^u !  glaci]4 ,we _h to f9d  

our way among num]\s pits & crevasses4  
,we  kept z close toge!r z 0            
practicable1 b we 7 n rop$  toge!r4 ,x  
has ev] be5 my rule :5 m\nta9e]+ t e man
  mu/ look aft] himself4 ,i take all    
s5sible precautions to avoid all        
accid5ts1 & collective accid5ts 9       
p>ticul>4 ,if !re has to be a  mi%ap1   
:i* is n likely1 & "s un=tunate man     
slips into a  crevasse1 d n let him by  
any means drag d[n ! :ole p>ty1 z is    
frequ5tly ! case :5 rop$ toge!r4        
,besides1 ! rope 9 itself is  a great   
h9drance to "o's progress1 & on v r\gh  
m>*+  exhau/s mu* ( ! travell]'s /r5g?1 
be+ ei!r too tight or  too slack1 &     
always gett+ 9 ! way :5 x %\ld n4    ,we
 tramp$ along z be/ we c\ld ov] a great 
_m transv]se waves (  ice1 cov]$ "h &   
!re ) dbris--mo/ fatigu+ "w4 ,9 !  fir/ 
portion ( ! ma9 glaci]1 on :i* we 71 &  
:i* lay f  ,w4 to ,e41 ! transv]se waves
 foll[$ a p>allel direction ( ,n4,w4 to 
,s4,e4 until we rea*$ an altitude (     
#ae1jjj feet ) a temp]ature (  #db2 b 9 

! upp] "p ( ! glaci]1 :i* lay f ,n4,w4  
to ,s4,e41  ^! p>allel waves lay 9 a    
direction ( f ,s4 ,w4 to ,n4,e4 ,9 !    
high] portion ( ! glaci]1 #ae1djj feet  
above sea-level1 we came to  a regul>   
maze ( huge pits 9 close succession1 &  
we 7 glad :5  ! sun %one brightly on u &
 little by little dispell$ ! fog1 s  t  
we c\ld see :at we might expect ahead ( 
u4    ,on our left we _h precipit\s     
m\nta9s ( grey rock2 on our "r  some:at 
g5tl] slopes1 mo/ly cov]$ ) sn[4 ,we at 
la/ rea*$  ! cresc5t-%ap$ ,lumpa bas91  
wall$ all r\nd ) two high] peaks  jo9$  
by a semicircul> high b>ri] ( sn[-clad  
rock4    ,we 7 p>ticul>ly =tunate z we  
approa*$4 ,! mi/ lift$ l  ! curta9 ( a  
!atre & unexpect$ly disclos$ a          
magnific5t view  be=e u1 brilliantly    
illum9at$ by ! light ( ! sun4 ,i 0 lucky
  en\gh to obta9 sev]al excell5t        
photographs & sket*es1 "o giv+  a       
panoramic view ( ! sc5e be+ reproduc$ 9 
?is book4    ,i possess "s negatives    
tak5 on t occasion t are ( p>ticul>     

int]e/1 z %[+ ! idiocy ( c]ta9 p :o     
ma9ta9 t  cl\ds d n =m above an altitude
 ( #bj1jjj feet4 ,! v fact t  y f9d sn[ 
up to ! summits at ,n&a ,devi 7#be1ffj  
feet71 & ,mt4  ,ev]e/ 7#bi1jjj feet71   
might1 ,i ?9k1 be suffici5t pro( to !   
contr>y to any "o except possibly a     
,royal geograph]2 b 9 my  negatives !   
cl\ds !mselves %[ z !y 7 =m+ on ! summit
  ( "o ( ! ,lumpa peaks1 :i* has an     
elevation ( #bc1dij feet4    ,a few     
negatives ( less] importance 7 injur$   
ow+ to a mo/  uncommon occurr5ce4 ,9 my 
magaz9e cam]a ! plate-hold]s 7 (  metal1
 & slid "o on ! top ( ! o!r :5 be+ *ang$
 =  exposure4 ,ow+ to ! dryness ( !     
atmosph]e ! friction ( metal  on metal  
produc$ an electric sp>k inside ! cam]a1
 :i* m>k$  "s ( ! plates across l a     
/reak ( lightn+1 & some:at  fogg$ !m4 ,(
 c\rse1 ,i only discov]$ ?is on develop+
 !m4    ,my object 9 mak+ ! asc5t ( ?is 
high peak 0 n s mu* =  ! sake ( gett+   
!re z = ! purpose ( mak+ "s  obs]vations
 on ! effects ( great altitudes ^u human

 be+s1 a  subject 9 :i* ,i 0 !n r       
int]e/$4 ,we cont9u$ climb+  ^u ! glaci]
 until we came to a big /ret* brok5 into
 huge &  tortu\s crevasses ( imm5se     
dep?4 ,:5 y /oop$ ov] ! edge &  look$   
d[n1 ! ice-walls on ei!r side %[$ mo/   
beautiful t9ts1  f int5se blue at !     
bottom fad+ 9 mo/ delici\s tones to pale
  gre5 & to ! pure :ite ( ! surface sn[4
 ,^! crevasses 7  v wide 9 "s places1 b 
"h & !re !y 7 close toge!r1  & we c\ld  
easily jump across4    ,we !n left !    
glaci]1 & proce$$ climb+ along ! m\nta9 
side to our "r1 ^u ext5sive sn[-fields4 
,! fir/ portion ( !  asc5t 0 9 no way   
difficult1 & we proce$$ quickly en\gh   
consid]+ ! great elevation4 ,b on rea*+ 
#bj1jjj feet "s ( my  m5 7 tak5 ) m\nta9
 sickness1 & !y _h great difficulty 9   
keep+ up ) u4 ,!y bl$ consid]ably f !   
nose1 & 7  ev5tually seiz$ ) su* viol5t 
pa9s t we _h to leave !m  beh9d--to be  
pick$ up on our return4 ,out ( twelve m5
 only f\r 7  /ill 9 good condition1 &   
hav+ se5 to ! com=t ( ! sick m5  we left

 !m1 wrapp$ up 9 _! blankets1 9 a %elt]$
 holl[ ^u  ! m\nta9 side4    ,we next   
came to a pat* ( v tr\blesome loose     
dbris1 s /eep t  ev5 sn[ w\ld n /op on  
x1 & we sweat$ & sweat$ = "s  "t try+ to
 get on4 ,e "t y took a /ep y />t$ a    
mass (  dbris1 slid+ ) a great ro> d[n !
 m\nta9 side1 & y w5t  slid+ back       
y\rself almo/ to :]e y _h mov$ f4    ,:5
 we manag$ to get high] we 7 among bigg]
 rocks1 also q  loose1 & x seem$ z if ! 
s\nd ( "o's voice 0 suffici5t to  />t   
doz5s ( !m on a b\nd+ race = l[]        
elevations4 ,we 7  re/+ = a :ile :5 a   
lot ( ^! /ones came roll+ &  b\nd+ t[>ds
 u ) great =ce1 & on ! loose /uff ^u :i*
  we /ood x 0 impossible to get out ( ! 
way quickly4 ,"o big rock  p>ticul>ly   
came b\nd+ d[n 9 su* an erratic fa%ion t
 we saw  its approa* ) "s conc]n4 ,"o ( 
my m51 9 ^: direction x  seem$ b\nd1    
%\t$ = help & tri$ to get aside1 b he 0 
hit  ) great vehem5ce 9 8 legs & s5t    
fly+ "s feet into !  air4 ,he 0 mu* %ak5
 & bruis$1 b aft] "s rubb+ &  ?ump+ he 0

 able to cont9ue4    ,:5 we 7 ab\t to   
leave ! dbris we witness$ a mo/         
attractive  sight--a sight :i*1         
nev]!less1 caus$ me consid]able anxiety 
=  "s m9utes4 ,x 0 ! bir? ( an avalan*e4
 ,"s sn[ hav+ got  loose high] up ^u !  
m\nta91 x began roll+ d[n 9 little      
balls1 ?\s&s ( !m1 :i* got bigg] & bigg]
 z y 7  look+ at !m1 ow+ to ! sn[ !y    
collect$ on _! precipitate  c>e]4 ,!    
avalan*e pass$ 9 a furr[ only a few y>ds
 f u1  af=d+ a magnific5t view2 b ?is   
furr[1 unhappily1 l$ to !  v spot :]e ,i
 _h left my sick m51 d[n1 d[n bel[1 & we
 c\ld  see !m1 z big z ants1 ly+ wrapp$ 
9 _! r$ blankets on !  :ite sn[1        
unconsci\s ( ! approa*+ dang]4 ,! myriad
 (  sn[balls1 :i* 7 no bigg] ?an p+-pong
 balls :5 !y />t$1  7 z big z dec5t-siz$
 build+s :5 !y _h gone "s hundr$s  (    
y>ds1 & :5 two ( !m cla%$ 9 _! desc5t x 
seem$ l  an explosion ( a m9e1 ! scatt]$
 sn[ 9 p[d]$ =m be+  ?r[n up to a great 
height & look+ n unlike smoke4 ,! holl[1
  :irl+ s\nd z ! avalan*e :izz$ pa/ 0 q 

impressive1 &  ,i mu/ confess t ,i 0    
nev] s reliev$ z :5 ,i saw x j miss  my 
invalid$ m5 d[n bel[1 & end its run ) a 
great cla% ^u  ! glaci] at ! bottom4 ,x 
seem$ l heavy ?und] :5 x /ruck1  :i* 0  
e*o$ = "s m9utes 9 ! m\nta9s all r\nd & 
d[n  ! passage ?r\gh :i* we _h approa*$ 
! glaci]4    ,:5 we rea*$ ! cre/ ( !    
range we came to a difficult passage    
:]e ! rock1 j l ! blade ( a knife1 0 s  
%>p & its  sides s /eep t ev5 ! sn[ w\ld
 n rema9 on x4 ,we _h to get  across    
someh[1 & ! only way to d x 0 to balance
 oneself on !  top ( x--less ?an a foot 
wide--or1 if "o's head 0 n /eady  en\gh1
 proce$ a/ride ( x4 ,x 0 only a few feet
 long1 b !  drop1 _h "o fall51 0 sev]al 
?\s& feet on ei!r side4 ,ap>t  f ! fact 
t x 0 s high1 !re 0 no real difficulty 9
  gett+ across1 &1 pant+ & bl[+1 /opp+ e
 few feet =  brea?1 we proce$$ high] &  
high]4    ,my m5 7 suff]+ consid]ably1  
_! he>ts beat+ 9 a mo/  irregul> fa%ion 
) occasional viol5t ?robs1 :i* caus$ me 
mu*  anxiety4 ,^! ?robs1 :5 !y occurr$1 

caus$ su* sudd5  exhau/ion t ! m5 fell  
d[n half-fa9t+1 & x took "s  m9utes to  
revive !m & br+ !m fur!r4 ,!y 71 h[ev]1 
mo/  plucky1 & /ruggl$ l m51            
uncompla9+ly4 ,!y nev] once ask$  to    
give 9 & g back4    ,f an altitude (    
ab\t #bb1jjj feet _! suff]+s took a     
some:at  acute =m1 nausea & pr(use ble$+
 f ! nose caus+ !m mu*  inconv5i5ce4 ,!y
 compla9$ ( int5se pa9s & abnormal      
pressure  9 ! c5tre ( ! *e/ z well z    
along ! fissures 9 ! skull1  p>ticul>ly 
:]e ! skull is ?9n] on ! top at ! po9t (
  junction1 & at ! temples2 also ( a    
sev]e pressure l[ 9 ! back  ( ! skull4  
,!y 7 mu* worri$ ov] ! madd5+ buzz+     
caus$  by ! r>efi$ air1 :i* !y he>d &   
c\ld n expla94 ,!y  attribut$ x to      
some?+ hav+ got inside _! e>s4 ,_! he>+ 
0 tempor>ily affect$ :5 we got high]    
/ill1 & !y exp]i5c$  difficulty 9 he>+  
me speak at all4    ,:5 we _h got to    
#bc1jjj feet1 my nose1 too1 bl$ l a     
f\nta91 &  ,i c\ld n /op ! fl[1 b1      
contr>y to my expectation1 x seem$  to  

cause me relief r ?an discom=t4 ,i c\ld 
brea! m freely1  & my he>t did n beat 9 
su* a reckless mann] z be=e4 ,x  caus$  
me a slight pa9 & pressure on ! top ( ! 
skull1 b  n[h]e else4    ,( c\rse !     
exhau/ion 0 indescribable4 ,x 0 all "o  
c\ld d to  g f\r or five y>ds at a "t1  
al?\gh ! asc5t aft] a c]ta9  po9t 0 9 no
 way difficult1 because on look+ at !   
m\nta9 ,i _h  in/9ctively *os5 ! easie/ 
way to g up4 ,"o pant$ s  convulsively &
 ! he>t beat s h>d & quick t x r made   
"o reflect4    ,possibly ! mo/ try+     
consequ5ce ( travell+ s high up 0 !     
weight :i* "o's limbs seem$ to assume4  
,"o h>dly _h ! /r5g?  to lift !m up4 ,! 
ef=t ( mov+ "o's legs 9 succession ?ree 
or  f\r times exhau/$ "o tempor>ily z   
mu* z if "o _h walk$  ?irty miles "u    
ord9>y circum/ances4    ,well1 on we    
/ruggl$1 ) an occasional gr9 at our     
plight4 ,! la/  few hundr$ feet ( our   
asc5t 7 inde$ h>d "w4    ,"o ( my m51 ! 
/ronge/-look+ lad 9 my p>ty1 :o _h be5  
pant+ mo/ t]ribly & gasp+ = brea?1      

unluckily bur/ a  blood-vessel :5 we 7  
)9 a few feet ( ! top4 ,he 0 9  int5se  
pa94 ,we scre5$ him 9 a %elt]$ nook4 ,he
 suff]$ v  mu*1 poor fell[1 & al?\gh on 
our return we br\ght him d[n  aga91 he  
ev5tually di$4    ,at la/ we rea*$ !    
summit--#bc1dij feet 7measur$ by me ) ! 
hypsometrical app>atus ) ?ree diff]5t   
boil+-po9t !rmomet]s  *eck$ at ! ,kew   
,obs]vatory be=e my dep>ture & aft] my  
return4  ,two excell5t an]oids :i* ,i   
also c>ri$ gave a simil> figure  )9 a   
few feet74    ,! day 0 a beautifully    
cle> "o up !re1 b d[n bel[ !re 0  mu*   
mi/ & _m cl\ds1 :i* took away a good    
deal f ! beauty  ( ! panorama4 ,!re 71  
h[ev]1 a great _m high sn[y peaks  t[]+ 
above ! mi/ l maje/ic :ite isl&s ris+   
out ( !  sea ( cl\ds4 ,! view 0 soon    
almo/ entirely obscur$ by cl\ds1  & ) ! 
exception ( ,api ,mt41 to ! ,n4,n4,w41  
ano!r peak1 #bj1bhj  feet1 9 ,nepal1    
peep+ ?r\gh to ! ,n4,e4 ( u1 "o ( !     
,lumpa  gr\p & o!r m\nta9s close by1 we 
c\ld see v little4    ,! peak on :i* we 

7 0 9 a /eep gradi5t on ! side on :i*   
we _h climb$1 b 0 mo/ precipit\s on !   
o!r side4 ,9 fact1 x  0 almo/ v]tical "r
 d[n to ! glaci] at its foot1 "s #fejj  
feet bel[4 ,x look$ z if "o half ( !    
m\nta9 _h at "s remote  p]iod collaps$1 
leav+ ! %>p-edg$ peak /&+4 ,!re 0 n  z  
mu* sn[ on ! top z l[] d[n1 z ! w9d bl[s
 a good deal (  ! surface sn[ away1 "s  
melts ) ! heat ( ! sun1 & !  slope ( !  
m\nta91 ev5 on ! side we _h climb$1 be+ 
some:at  /eep1 :5ev] suffici5t sn[ _h   
accumulat$ on ! top its weight  caus$ x 
to slide d[n 9 avalan*es4 ,ev5 ! day ,i 
w5t up we  c\nt$ "s five or six         
avalan*es 9 v>i\s p>ts ( ! m\nta91  b   
none came q s ne> z ! fir/ ,i describ$4 
,! rock 0 expos$ 9 "o or two places1 & 0
 s rott$ t )  our f+]s we c\ld remove   
l>ge slabs4 ,:5 we _h tak5 a good re/1  
:i* re/or$ u wond]fully--z soon z y sat 
d[n & did no?+  y felt well & relatively
 happy1 except ! lungs1 :i* seem$ n  to 
"w q s regul>ly--we took advantage ( !  
rock at h& to  con/ruct a cairn on !    

summit4 ,aft] hav+ inscrib$ ! names ( my
  m5 & my own on a /one & on a piece (  
pap]1 we plac$ !m 9 a  receptacle on !  
s\? side ( ! cairn & built !m up all    
r\nd  & above1 s t !y might be pres]v$ z
 long z possible4    ,i !n proce$$ to   
take all ! necess>y obs]vations--n1     
h[ev]1  be=e hav+ dev\r$ two :ole p\nds 
( *ocolate1 :i* ,i ate )  "s sn[ to     
allay my ?ir/ z well z my appetite4     
,i _h be5 consum+ on t asc5t a great _m 
loz5ges ( highly  conc5trat$ meat1--ea* 
"o 0 suppos$ to be z good z a meal1--&  
,i  ate at lea/ fifty 9 ! space ( eight 
h\rs & a half4 ,i suppose  !y 7 su/a9+1 
b y _h to eat lots ( !m = "o loz5ge  to 
su/a9 ! previ\s "o1 or !y left an awful 
feel+ ( empt9ess  9 "o's inside4 ,an    
empty inside1 ,i firmly believe1 is a   
mi/ake =  rea*+ high elevations1 or at  
any o!r "t1 s ,i _h />t$ )  my pockets  
full ( *ocolate1 & :at ! loz5ges c\ld n 
d !  huge *unks ( *ocolate ,i *ew$ all !
 way up ! m\nta9 c]ta9ly  accompli%$4   
,i ?9k x 0 p>tly due to ! con/ant       

n\ri%m5t ,i took all !  way up t ,i 0   
able to break ! _w's record 9 m\nta9e]+1
  go+ sev]al hundr$ feet high] ?an o!r  
m\nta9e]s1 )  comp>ative ease4 ,_h !    
peak :i* we climb$ be5 high]1 ,i c\ld  h
 gone ev5 high] & rea*$ a consid]ably   
great] elevation4 ,b  p]haps ,nature    
gave me q an abnormal con/itution = "w (
 t  k9d1 z p :o "k me c te/ify4    ,x is
 int]e/+ to note t ! /ronge/ & mo/      
a?letic-look+  man 9 my p>ty on t       
p>ticul> exp$ition 0 ! only "o :o  broke
 d[n badly & di$2 & ! weake/1           
smalle/-fram$--almo/  girli% 9          
appe>ance1 he look$ s delicate--0 ! only
 "o out (  all ! foll[]s ,i _h employ$  
:o ?r\gh\t /ood ! h>d%ips &  suff]+s )\t
 a fl9*1 %[$ ! greate/ endurance1 &     
ev5tually return$ home 9 excell5t       
condition4    ,p]haps ,i %\ld also      
m5tion t nei!r myself nor any ( ! m5  :o
 came up ) me wore hobnail$ boots 9 mak+
 ! asc5t1 ,i  we>+ "s comp>atively light
 boots ( m$ium weight su* z ,i w\ld  we>
 9 ,london on a wet day4 ,9 ! way (     

clo?+1 too1 ,i made no  diff]5ce betwe5 
go+ up on a _w's record-break+ exp$ition
 &  tak+ a /roll d[n ,piccadilly4 ,i    
mean t ,i wore my ,piccadilly  clo!s up 
!re--clo!s ( ! ?9ne/ tropical mat]ial1  
no  und]clo?+ to speak (1 a /raw hat1 & 
a small bamboo /ick 9 my  h&4    ,x has 
always be5 my practice to simplify      
ev]y?+4 ,"o _c get  away f ! fact t !   
simpl] y are 9 ev]y?+ y d !  bett]1 & ) 
m\nta9e]+ p>ticul>ly1 ! less y c>ry1 !  
less muffl$ up y are1 ! fre] 9 y\r      
movem5ts1 ! m y w  accompli%4 ,t is to  
say1 if y\r con/itution is s made t y  c
 /& x4    ,i _c get away f ! fact t "o c
 d no bett] ?an we>  su* com=table clo!s
 z "o is g5]ally 9 ! habit ( we>+1  & ,i
 c\ld nev] und]/& ! object ( p>ad+ 9    
clumsy twe$s  /rapp$ all ov]1 :5 y ne$  
y\r movem5ts z little imp$$ z  possible4
    ,i w ref] y to "o ( ! col\r$ plates1
 copi$ f a  photograph tak5 at an       
altitude ( "s #bj1jjj feet on ,lumpa by 
"o (  my m5 be=e we left !m on ! m\nta9 
side4 ,! picture %[s !  au?or & ! f\r m5

 :o accompani$ him to ! summit ( !      
m\nta94                  ,,*apt] ,,ix   
,we mu/ g back a :ile 9 ! n>rative4 ,on 
hav+ rea*$ ! summit  & deliv]$ !mselves 
( ! in/rum5ts1 cam]as1 etc41 :i* !y     
c>ri$1 ! m5 imm$iately ?rew !mselves d[n
 & fell fa/  asleep1 brea?+ heavily & q 
exhau/$4 ,i let !m re/ a:ile  be=e tak+ 
obs]vations ^u !m4 ,:5 ,i woke !m up "o 
by "o  !y did n respond v quickly1--z !y
 usually did1--b seem$ to  rema9 = "s   
m9utes semi-unconsci\s1 z if !y _h be5  
"u !  influ5ce ( a n>cotic4 ,?is 0      
und\bt$ly caus$ by ! r>efi$  air4    ,on
 ! asc5t above #bj1jjj feet ,i _h notic$
 h[ pr(use !  salivation _h be5 ) my m52
 ! saliva gl&s be+ mo/ active  :5 ! m5  
und]w5t ex]tion1 b n s mu* n[ t !y 7    
/ation>y4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 "o ( ! f\r m5
 :o suff]$ lea/  dur+ ! asc5t & :5 up   
!re on ! summit 0 a fell[--a  ,rajiput  
by ca/e--:o _h nev] be5 on a sn[ m\nta9 
9 8 life4 ,8  det]m9$ en?usiasm1 ,i ?9k1
 & /rong w help$ him to no mean  ext5t4 
,i am unable to give ! m5's names "h1   

le/ ,i %\ld expose !m to  fur!r         
p]secution f ! ,gov]nm5t ( ,india1 b we 
w call !m  ,a1 ,b1 ,c1 ,d4    ,a1 #de   
ye>s ( age1 aft] a good re/1 _h a fairly
 regul> he>t-beat1  b v fa/4 ,he felt q 
ill1 & compla9$ ( a sev]e pressure  at !
 temples & ! top ( ! head4 ,e two m9utes
 or s 8  lungs & he>t %[$ "s convulsive 
movem5ts2 also abnormal  movem5ts 7     
noticeable 9 ! c5tre ( ! *e/4 ,8 pulse  
regi/]$ #aje beats a m9ute1 & 0         
extremely fa9t1 :ile 8  temp]ature 0    
#ajb4 ,?is 0 ! man :o broke a           
blood-vessel4    ,b1 a ,%oka1 #ej ye>s  
old1 & :o _h con/antly liv$ at great    
elevations1 _h a /rong] pulse1 #hj      
pulsations p] m9ute1 ) a  temp]ature (  
#ajjb4 ,8 =ehead 0 burn+1 & he _h a     
/rong  buzz+ 9 8 e>s4 ,pa9 & convulsive 
movem5ts 9 ! lungs1 &  also 9 ! c5tre ( 
*e/1 e few brea?s4    ,c1 a             
p[]fully-built ,%oka1 felt abnormal     
weakness1 al?\gh 8 pulse  0 only #gh1 q 
regul>1 b s fa9t t "o c\ld h>dly feel x4
  ,! he>t1 too1 beat q feebly b regul>ly

 en\gh1 :5 n  ex]t+ himself4 ,he _h bl$ 
consid]ably on ! asc5t4 ,8  temp]ature 0
 #ih4 ,8 e>s 7 buzz+1 & he suff]$ f     
torm5t+ pressure 9 ! temples1 top & back
 ( skull4    ,d1 ! ,rajiput1 a/oni%$ me 
v mu*4 ,he only _h #gf pulsations1  v   
/eady & /rong1 al?\gh he _h bl$         
pr(usely2 8 he>t beat  viol5tly & ?robb$
 al>m+ly e few mom5ts4 ,8 respiration  0
 regul>1 b slightly quick] ?an normal4  
,he compla9$ ( great  heat 9 ! head4 ,8 
=ehead 0 burn+2 8 temples1 he said1     
seem$ z if !y 7 be+ cru%$ 9 a claw (    
iron1 & z if 8  skull w\ld split4 ,he   
suff]$ f great pressure 9 ! t5d]e/  spot
 on ! top ( 8 skull & also beh9d ! head4
 ,8 temp]ature  0 #ajjb4    ,all        
compla9$ ( great heav9ess 9 ! legs &    
arms1 ( dryness (  ! sk91 p>ticul>ly at 
! =ehead & lips1 & unqu5*able  ?ir/4 ,! 
pupils ( ! eyes 7 9 all cases abnormally
 contract$1  al?\gh ! light 0 n /rong at
 ! "t ( exam9ation4    ,i 0 impress$ by 
! di/9ctness ) :i* s\nds travell$2      
voices  s\nd+ extraord9>ily cle>1 q     

cry/all9e1 & if l\d & ne>  produc+ q a  
%>p & uncom=table impression ^u !       
tympanum  ( "o's e>s1 not)/&+ t ! r>efi$
 air caus$ !  s5sation ( hav+ my e>s    
/opp$ ) cotton-wool4    ,aft]           
half-an-h\r's re/ ! obs]vations ^u      
myself 7 z  foll[s3--#abj pulsations p] 
m9ute1 & he>t beat+ at a simil>  rate1 r
 /rong] ?an usual1 b q regul>4          
,temp]ature "u  tongue #iic4 ,! =ehead1 
unlike my m5's1 q cool b feel+  v dry1 &
 !re rema9$ a slight pressure along !   
fissures at  ! side ( ! skull4 ,bo? ) me
 & ) all my m5 ! temp]ature  ( ! body   
ar\nd ! he>t 0 greatly increas$1 & we   
all suff]$  f an insatiable ?ir/4 ,we   
con/antly fill$ our m\?s ) sn[  & melt$ 
x 9 ord] to appease ! uncom=table feel+1
 b 9 a  mom5t ! palate & ?roat felt q   
dry1 al?\gh1 z ,i h  /at$1 salivation 0 
pr(use1 especially :ile eat+ or tak+    
ex]tion4    ,:ile my m5 7 busy con/ruct+
 ! cairn ,i did a v fooli%  ?+4 ,f our  
p9nacle d[n to ! glaci] bel[ 9 a v]tical
 l9e  0 a drop ( "s #fejj feet1 & = "s  

reason or o!r ,i took x  into my head to
 g & sit on ! edge & dangle my legs ov] 
!  precipice4 ,y see1 "o does n always h
 an opportunity ( hav+  s mu* room to   
dangle "o's legs & feet 96 ,9 ord] to   
avoid  accid5ts ,i knock$ (f "s ( !     
surface sn[ & !n1 help$ by  "o ( my     
m5--:o ent]$ fully into ! hum\r ( !     
situation--,i sat  myself d[n4    ,i 0  
gaily kick+ my feet ab\t1 :5 my man %\t$
 t ! ice &  rock 7 giv+ way f "u me4    
,be=e ,i _h "t to get up f my           
unpleasant position ! fell[ _h pluck &  
s5se en\gh to try &  rea* ov]1 seiz+ me 
firmly by ! wri/1 & z ! rock & ice &    
sn[ w5t f "u1 n only 7 my legs dangl+   
ov] !  precipice1 b my :ole body 0      
susp5d$ 9 mid-air4    ,x seems t 9 8    
ef=ts to save me ,i might h dragg$ ! man
  d[n z well1 _h x n be5 = ! pres5ce (  
m9d ( a ?ird  fell[ :o int]rupt$ !      
con/ruction ( our cairn & seiz$ my      
savi\r by ! legs4 ,aft] "s dangl+       
ab\t--:i* seem$ to la/ a  v long "t--!y 
ev5tually pull$ me up4    ,n[1 _h ^? m5 

be5 ,engli% or ,scot* or ,iri% or ,fr5*1
 ?is  incid5t might h suppli$ !m ) "s   
excitem5t & a topic (  conv]sation = "s 
"t4 ,b no2 ! man ,b1 :o _h caught me 9 !
  fir/ in/ance1 felt ) 8 foot a spot :]e
 ! sn[ seem$ firm  en\gh1 & he placidly 
rem>k$3 8,sit d[n "h1 ,sahib1 ?is w n   
give way10 & he sat himself d[n z if    
no?+ _h happ5$1 :ile  ! man ,c resum$ ! 
con/ruction ( ! cairn )\t any comm5t4   
,my he>t ?ump$ a good deal f ! sudd5    
j]k--n to speak ( !  prospect ( !       
unexpect$ flight--b on feel+ myself all 
ov] &  f9d+ t ,i _h n lo/ any?+ f my    
pockets1 nor my /raw hat1  ,i soon felt 
q happy aga94 ,a glance at ! two sket*es
  illu/rat+ ?is incid5t w1 ,i ?9k1 give 
a cle>] idea ( !  situation ?an !       
description4    ,we rema9$ ab\t an h\r  
on our l(ty p9nacle1 ! temp]ature 9 !   
sun be+ #gj1 & !n we made our way d[n4  
,hold+ "o ano!r by  ! h& we slid d[n !  
/eep incl9e at a precipit\s pace4 ,!    
di/ance :i* _h tak5 u h\rs ( toil+ &    
pant+ 9 our asc5t1  only took u a v %ort

 "t 9 ! desc5t4 ,a ?ick mi/ 0 com+  on &
 my m5 7 mo/ anxi\s to get d[n quick4   
,we 7 slid+ d[n at a t]rific rate1 us+  
our feet z brakes to  control ! velocity
 :5 x got too dang]\s4 ,we ev5tually    
f\nd  ourselves aga9 on ! loose dbris & 
"h1 too1 we w5t d[n sev]al  y>ds at ea* 
/ep1 c>ry+ d[n ) u a mass ( loose       
/ones--a  regul> l&-slide--:i* roll$ "r 
d[n to ! bottom )  trem5d\s fracas4     
,z we got l[]1 we all felt notable      
relief 9 brea?+1 & we halt$  = a few    
m9utes to pick up ! m5 we _h left bel[4 
,!y _h  obta9$ a good re/1 & 7 feel+    
bett]4    ,we gave a p>t+ look to !     
magnific5t glaci]--:i* ,i nam$ !  ,*>les
 ,l&or1 aft] my fa!r--& its /up5d\s     
irregul> t]races  ( cle> ice ris+       
v]tically ov] #ajjj feet 9 height4 ,!   
t]races  7 undulat+ on _! summit1 & %[$ 
a t5d5cy to precipitate  t[>ds ! s\!rn  
side4    ,on our return we foll[$ a     
simpl] plan4 ,! tail ( ! glaci]  %[$    
?ree high ridges ( ice1 cov]$ f>!r d[n )
 dbris1  ^! ridges--two lat]al & a      

c5tral "o--runn+ practically p>allel  to
 ea* o!r & be+ =m$ by ! =c+ up ( ! ice  
at !  sides & 9 ! c5tre4 ,also1 ! sn[   
precipitat$ f ! sides (  ! m\nta9s w\ld 
t5d to increase _! height--:ile ! heat (
 !  m\nta9 rock w\ld cause ! sn[ 9 its  
imm$iate neighb\rhood to  melt1 & ?us   
leave a *annel cle> betwe5 ! m\nta9     
itself &  ! dunes ?us =m$4 ,z !re 0 "s  
sn[ on ! summit ( ^!  dunes "o got a    
fair grip ) "o's feet2 & walk+ ^u _!    
summit involv$ no great difficulty1     
except t :5 "o _h balanc$  oneself ^u !m
 = long di/ances "o occasionally felt a 
little  giddy4 ,?is 01 nev]!less1 a     
great improvem5t ^u walk+ d[n  bel[     
among ! crevasses1 holes1 & pools1 z we 
_h done 9 !  morn+1 & sav$ u no end ( "t
 & ex]tion4 ,true en\gh1 if we  _h      
slipp$ we might h %ot d[n ) "s =ce into 
a crevasse  ) little hope ( com+ out    
alive1 b we mu/ n slip1 t 0  all4 ,z ea*
 ( u _h to look aft] himself1 we 7      
mighty c>eful  :]e & h[ we put our feet4
    ,! c5tral ridge "h1 z 9 mo/ o!r     

glaci]s1 0 usually high]  & %>p]-edg$   
?an ! lat]al ones1 & _h also a m unev5  
summit1 r l ! conv5tional wave patt]n1  
inv]t$ arcs ( a  circle com+ 9 contact &
 =m+ po9t$ summits4 ,we travell$ on  !  
ridge to our left on leav+ ! glaci]4    
,at six o'clock 9 ! ev5+ we aga9 rea*$  
camp--oh1 h[ glad we  76--hav+ be5 on ! 
g /eadily = ?irte5 h\rs1 dur+ :i*  "t we
 _h cov]$ sixte5 miles4 ,?is 0 n at all 
bad1 at su*  elevations & on su*        
difficult gr\nd4 ,( c\rse1 mo/ ( t      
di/ance 0 betwe5 ! camp & ! glaci] at ! 
foot ( ! ,lumpa  bas92 ! actual di/ance 
f ! glaci] to ! summit1 al?\gh  occupy+ 
! great] portion ( ! "t1 be+            
comp>atively small4    ,!re 7 great     
rejoic+s 9 camp t night1 & !y took ! =m 
( an elaborate--b only half-cook$--meal1
 our fuel giv+ out 9 !  middle ( !      
cook+4 ,y see1 at high elevations wat]  
takes su* a  long "t to boil2 9 fact1 x 
boils )\t be+ hot4 ,at t  p>ticul> camp 
x boil$ at #ahgc--;& cook+ took an      
int]m9able  "t4 ,) a display be=e me--& 

x did n rema9 a display v  long--( tepid
 ,bovril s\p1 s>d9es1 army ration /ew   
7semi-/ew$71  corn$ beef1 t9n$ plum     
pudd+ 7,"l6 x felt heavy ev5 up !re671  
& a w>mi% mug ( *ocolate--,i felt z     
happy aga9--9 fact1 happi]  ?an a k+6   
,,*apt] ,x      ,we made a v e>ly />t   
aga9 ! foll[+ morn+1 z ,i _h !  int5tion
 ( cross+ ! range to ! nor? ( u &       
explor+ "s  ( ! virg9 glaci]s ( ! ,t9k] 
region & 9 ,tibet4 ,! m\nta9s  71 h[ev]1
 s precipit\s t we _h "s difficulty 9   
f9d+ a  spot :]e we c\ld climb up & take
 our loads z well4    ,we aga9 proce$$  
upw>d t[>ds ! ,*>les ,l&or ,glaci]1 b   
kept  on ! dune to ! left 7go+ up7      
in/ead ( on ! "o we _h tak5  com+ d[n ! 
previ\s night4 ,aga9 we pass$ along huge
 cracks 9  ! ice1 & "h & !re m holes 9 !
 ice--reliev+ some:at  ! monotony ( !   
grey dbris t cov]$ t tail portion ( !   
glaci]4 ,aga9 we got ano!r di/ant       
glimpse ( ! maje/ic glaci]  itself t[]+ 
9 front ( u ) its gigantic ice-t]races4 
,p]haps  ! reason t ^! t]races droop    

t[>ds ! s\!rn side may be  attribut$ to 
! heat ( ! sun %9+ ^u ! ice ( t side =  
m h\rs ?an on ! nor? side1 z ! high wall
 enclos+ ! bas9  on ! ea/ side ca/s a   
%ad[ ^u ! glaci] until ! sun is well  up
 9 ! sky4    ,someh[ or o!r ! dune we 7 
on 0 n z regul> z ! "o (  ! previ\s     
night1 & ! dbris :i* cov]$ x 0 v loose &
  slipp]y4 ,x (t5 crumbl$ "u u1 s t we  
?\ght we _h bett]  m>* 9 ! deep *annel  
betwe5 ! m\nta9 side & ! dune4 ,"h1     
too1 we _h to feel our way ) great      
caution1 z ! gr\nd 0  trea*]\s1 ) cracks
 9 ! ice bridg$ ov] ) sn[ & dbris4  ,?is
 seem$ a great day = l&slides4 ,at e    
mom5t we he>d  cra%+ noises ( masses (  
dbris be+ precipitat$ ^u !  glaci]1 & "s
 ( !m 7 q ne> en\gh = u to see4    ,!   
range to ! nor? ( u seem$ s un9t]rupt$ &
 s /eep  ev]y:]e1 ) a base ( rott5      
dbris1 & high v]tical rocks at  !       
summit1 t we 7 q puzzl$ to f9d a spot   
:]e we c\ld  cross x4 ,i _h notic$ a    
likely--b difficult--place ! day be=e1  
& x 01 inde$1 ! only accessible way up4 

,we !re left !  glaci] & began a /iff   
climb on ! loose dbris1 my m5  exp]i5c+ 
mu* difficulty 9 convey+ _! loads up4 ,e
 few  hundr$ feet !y _h to lie d[n = "s 
m9utes to re/4 ,al?\gh  ! fatigue 0     
really = !m ov]p[]+1 !y took matt]s 9 ! 
"r _s1 & in/ead ( grumbl+ !y laugh$     
he>tily at !  difficulty ( brea?+1 & !  
?ump+ & ?robb+ ( ! he>t4  ,we ev5tually 
got away f ! l[] dbris & proce$$ among  
l>ge  slabs ( rock1 mo/ slipp]y &       
tr\blesome1 & z %>p z knives1  our feet 
gett+ con/antly jamm$ betwe5 !m4 ,at la/
 we came be=e  a wall ( rock1 at su* a  
/eep angle t x look$ almo/  p]p5dicul>1 
) cracks & fissures 9 x1 & on ?is we _h 
to  climb1 cl++ ) all our might ) f+]s &
 toes4 ,?is "p (  ! asc5t 0 q dang]\s1  
=1 _h we slipp$1 x meant c]ta9  dea?4 ,!
 rock 0 s cold t "o's f+]s got          
semi-froz52 & we  felt mu* reliev$ :5 e 
n[ & !n we f\nd a holl[ or crack1  or   
projection1 all[+ suffici5t room to sit 
d[n & re/1 our legs  sw++ ov] ! abyss   
d[n bel[4 ,! br++ up ! loads gave u  no 

end ( tr\ble1 & x 0 a pleasure to see h[
 ?\ghtful &  helpful my m5 7 to "o      
ano!r4    ,we ev5tually got to a spot   
:]e we c\ld g nei!r up nor d[n1 z  "s ( 
! rock gave way2 & x 0 ) "s trepidation 
t we  wat*$ "o ( my ,%okas make /eps 9 !
 rott5 rock :ile cl++  ) "o h& & 8 toes 
app>5tly to no?+4 ,?is took a long  "t1 
& ?is difficulty be+ ov]come & a way    
made1 we climb$ &  climb$ on all f\rs   
until we rea*$ ! pass4    ,we he>tily   
nam$ x !re & !n ! 8,savage ,pass40 ,we  
took a long  re/ on ! summit1 & erect$  
two l>ge cairns ) our names 9  !m4 ,we  
obta9$ a mo/ /up5d\s view ( ! glaci] we 
_h left  beh9d uncoil+ itself sev]al    
hundr$ feet bel[ u4 ,x look$ v  na/y1 ) 
its huge cracks & crevasses1 & ! ?ree   
dunes all  along x1 l huge s]p5ts       
uncoil+ !mselves4 ,we _h h>dly "t  to   
admire ! sc5]y be=e we 7 envelop$ 9 ?ick
 mi/1 to !  nor? ( u p>ticul>ly1 !      
entire l&scape be+ hidd5 f u4 ,a  few   
mom5ts lat] x began to sn[4 ,wat] boil$ 
z l[ z #ahb1 :ile  ! temp]ature ( ! air 

0 #ea1 ! altitude 9 feet be+ #ag1cca4   
,:e!r because ( ! reaction aft] ! h>d "w
 ( gett+ up  !re1 or because ( ! sudd5  
cold & depression 9 ! atmosph]e1  due to
 ! com+ /orm1 a numb] ( my m5 7 tak5    
viol5tly ill  ) m\nta9 sickness4 ,!y    
wrapp$ !mselves 9 _! blankets1 &  said  
!y 7 dy+ & c\ld n move4 ,aft] a good    
deal (  p]suasion1 & "s %ak+--:i* is    
always a good rem$y = mo/  compla9ts--we
 made a />t4    ,on ! o!r side ( ! range
 we 7 confront$ ) v mu* !  same sort (  
gr\nd z :at we _h f\nd com+ up4 ,fir/ n[
 came a  wall-l rock precipice to       
desc5d--mu* m difficult always ?an to   
asc5d2 & !n ! sn[ fall+ fa/ prev5t$ our 
see+ _m feet  ahead ( u1 besides mak+   
our h&s1 e>s1 & nose unpleasantly  cold4
 ,we clung to ^? rocks & w5t c>efully   
d[n1 ! rock be+  s rott$ t x frequ5tly  
gave way4 ,9 "s h\rs' "w we 7 able  to  
take all ! baggage1 p>tly by pass+ x d[n
 ) ropes f "o  man to ano!r1 /ation$ at 
v>i\s heights ^u ! rocky wall4 ,ev5     
ourselves _h to be let d[n "o by "o )   

ropes 9 _m places :]e  ! rock 0 s smoo? 
& v]tical t x 0 impossible to cl+ to  x2
 b o!rwise we 7 n rop$ toge!r1 ! ropes  
us$ be+  m]ely ^? = sl++ ! loads on !   
m5's backs4    ,!re rose a cutt+ w9d1   
:i* made matt]s ev5 m unpleasant1 &     
drove ! sleet & sn[ ) great =ce into our
 faces4 ,:5 !  difficult "p ( ! desc5t 0
 ov]1 & we gradually got l[]  d[n1 !    
wea!r cle>$ some:at1 & we obta9$ a good 
view ( !  sc5]y to ! nor?4 ,! v]tical   
rock we _h desc5d$ measur$ #fjj  feet 9 
height4    ,a magnific5t undulat+ sea ( 
cl\ds lay be=e u1 scre5+ !  l[] section 
( ! valley2 !n ?ree di/9ct glaci]s %[$  
!mselves to ! nor? ( u1 9 t]races l     
gigantic /airways1 b  ) _! base hidd5 9 
! mi/1 & b>r51 desolate1 sn[-capp$      
m\nta9s ris+ above !m4 ,!n two m glaci]s
 appe>$4 ,above !  mo/ nor!rly ( ! ?ree 
glaci]s rose a peak #bj1bgi feet high4  
,z a  matt] ( fact1 :5 ! mi/ cle>$ up a 
little m1 we discov]$  t ^! five glaci]s
 7 only ! ramifications ( "o huge       
glaci]1 b !y 7 di/9ctly sep>at$ 9 _!    

upp] portion by  ridges4    ,a sea (    
cl\ds is always an int]e/+ sight1 annoy+
 z x is1 at  ! "t1 :5 x scre5s ! sc5]y  
"o w\ld l to see4 ,9 fact1  ! =mation ( 
cl\ds ^u m\nta9s is altoge!r an engross+
  subject to an obs]vant travell]4 ,!   
cl\ds at elevations above !  p]petual   
sn[-l9e 7ab\t #af1jjj 9 ! ,himahlyas7 h 
a m  fea!ry appe>ance ?an ^? =m$ bel[1 &
 ! high] !  elevation ! m fea!ry & light
 !y seem to be4 ,on ! sn[-l9e  itself "o
 g5]ally saw cl\ds1 *iefly ( a globul>  
"*1 &  9 su* close succession z to =m   
long horizontal /reaks4 ,?is 0          
p>ticul>ly noticeable at sunrise & at   
sunset4 ,dur+ ! night1  except 9 case ( 
/orms1 cl\ds =m$ less pr(usely1 &1 :5 !y
  did1 disappe>$ quick] ?an 9 ! daytime4
 ,j be=e sunrise1  h[ev]1 :5 ! atmosph]e
 0 gradually gett+ w>m]1 at  elevations 
f #ac1jjj to #af1jjj feet1 mi/s 7       
con/ant1 :i*  ev5tually disp]s$ :5 ! sun
 0 high on ! horizon4 ,t[>ds  sunset &  
soon aft]w>ds !y g5]ally recurr$ aga91 b
 !  nights 7 usually v cle>4 ,9 t       

p>ticul> exp$ition1 be+  always at v    
high elevations1 ,i _h an opportunity ( 
see+ _m  ph5om5a ( curi\s int]e/ &      
beauty4    ,"o aft]noon :5 ,i _h climb$ 
) two m5 on a small peak to  reconnoitre
 ! c\ntry ar\nd1 we 7 confront$ by a sea
 ( mi/  d[n bel[4 ,! sun 0 r l[ beh9d u1
 & x project$ our  %ad[s1 well def9$ b 9
 an elongat$ =m ( "s hundr$s (  feet1 on
 ! %eet ( pure :ite mi/ beyond4 ,x _h q 
a weird  effect1 :5 we 7 ge/iculat+1 to 
see our movem5ts magnifi$ 9  ! %ad[s to 
su* gigantic proportions4    ,ano!r     
beautiful effect ,i obs]v$ on sev]al    
occasions :5 envelop$  9 mi/1 ( imm5se  
:ite conc5tric circles ) a lum9\s c5tre1
  caus$ by ! sun p5etrat+ ?r\gh diff]5t 
lay]s ( mi/4 ,:5  "u simil> circum/ances
 ! sun 0 beh9d ! spectator in/ead (  9  
front1 & ! spectator himself n envelop$ 
9 ! mi/1 a huge  spectre--! spectator's 
%ad[--0 (t5 reflect$ 9 ! c5tre ( !      
lum9\s circle4 ,z ,i h else:]e describ$1
 ! latt] ph5om5on  c be produc$ by !    
moon or ! sun1 by ! =m] 9 a less        

int5sifi$ =m1 by ! latt] ) a circul>    
ra9b[ ( beautiful  col\rs4    ,!re are  
_m k9ds ( 8seas ( mi/0 ^u m\nta9s1 "s ) 
isl&s 7m\nta9 tops peep+ ?r\gh71 "s )\t2
 "s  smoo?-surfac$ l a placid lake1 o!rs
 9 undulations or actual  waves l a     
/ormy sea4 ,! %ad[s & lights play ^u !  
mi/ &  produce _m qua9t effects1 &      
objects assume curi\s & int]e/+  %apes4 
,"o mi/y ev5+1 ne> ! ,nui ,glaci]1 ,i   
saw be=e me :at seem$ an  imm5se cr\*+  
lion c>v$ 9 ! rock1 n unlike "o ( !     
fam\s  lions 9 ,trafalg> ,squ>e1 only "s
 ?\s& times bigg]4 ,sure en\gh  y c\ld  
see ! eyes1 ! luxuriant mane1 ! ext5d$  
=epaws1 &  ! tail spread out ) ! typical
 end tuft ( hair4 ,x 0 only on  gett+ q 
close t ! huge animal %[$ itself to be a
 m]e big  b\ld]1 ) ?ree mani walls )    
t]m9al *okd5s 7cairns7 erect$  by       
,tibetans f its base1 :i* f a di/ance   
=m$ ! lion's legs  & tail4    ,s mu* =  
optical illusions2 !re are a ?\s& m ^u  
high  m\nta9s1 & x is ! numb] (         
surprises "o meets at e mom5t  :i* makes

 a lonely life at great elevations full 
( en*antm5t4    ,hav+1 on our desc5t f !
 ,savage ,pass1 rea*$ a l[] elevation  &
 less p]il\s gr\nd to tread ^u1 we      
direct$ our /eps t[>ds  #bj 7,n4,e47    
be>+s magnetic4 ,at #af1ajj feet we f\nd
 moss1 b n[  dead & dry4 ,un=tunately = 
u we 7 b5ight$ be=e we c\ld  f9d a      
suitable camp+-gr\nd1 & a viol5t        
sn[-/orm broke out  :i* made x v        
difficult to see :]e we 7 go+4 ,we 7    
endeav\r+ to get l[] d[n1 :]e we c\ld   
obta9 "s %elt] &  a slightly w>m]       
temp]ature1 my m5 be+ simply p>alys$ )  
cold4  ,!y /umbl$ along1 a r[ ( black   
sil5t figures1 ,i keep+ !  direction 9  
:i* ,i want$ to travel ) a lum9\s       
compass4    ,we w5t on = a consid]able  
portion ( ! night1 ! /orm gett+  s bad t
 we c\ld n see :]e we 7 putt+ our feet2 
&  t[>ds midnight1 hav+ come across a   
lot ( big b\ld]s1 we decid$  to take    
advantage ( !m & make camp4 ,my m5 7 s  
tir$ &  froz5 t !y simply ?rew !mselves 
d[n1 cov]$ !mselves up1  & w5t fa/      

asleep1 decl9+ to eat any food4 ,!y _h  
eat5 no?+  t day1 = !y ma9ta9$ t if y   
eat food :5 y are s cold  y w surely    
die4 ,( c\rse _! philosophy does n g q s
  f> z to reflect :e!r x is pref]able to
 die ( indige/ion or  f ! l[ temp]ature4
 ,p]sonally1 z ,i h nev] be5 tr\bl$  ) !
 =m]1 ,i ?\ght ,i w\ld n risk ! latt]4  
,:ile ev]ybody  ar\nd snor$ & moan$ or 0
 deliri\s f pa91 ,i got out a small  _s 
,etna & attempt$ to brew myself "s hot  
*ocolate4 ,box aft]  box ( mat*es w5t 9 
try+ to keep x alight1 & :51 aft] us+  !
 pati5ce ( a sa9t1 ,i _h succe$$ 9 mak+ 
! wat] tepid1 my  t5t 0 bl[n d[n on !   
top ( u1 & upset ! :ole ?+4 ,s1  cold   
*ocolate ,i ate 9 *unks & "s corn$      
beef--oh1 x 0  cold6--& "s biscuits4    
,x 0 z lonely a meal z ,i h ev] _h1 ) ! 
w9d hiss+ &  ! sn[ accumulat+ ^u my     
%\ld]s1 knees1 & head4 ,i did n  l to   
r\se my poor m5 to put up ! t5t aga91 = 
x 0 no use1  ! sn[ 0 too deep & ! pegs  
w\ld n hold2 b ,i made myself a  sort ( 
l[ %elt] ) "s boxes & ! t5t spread on   

!m1 &  hav+ crept und]nea?1 slept s\ndly
 till ! morn+4    8,oh1 :at a morn+60 ,i
 exclaim$1 :5 ,i op5$ my a*+1 half-froz5
  eyelids4 ,worse ?an ! night be=e1 & ! 
sn[ com+ d[n z ,i  h seldom se5 x come  
be=e4 ,my baggage 0 buri$ altoge!r1 &  s
 7 my m51 except = "s brea?+-space cle>$
 ne> ! head4  ,all ! urg+ 9 ! _w w\ld n 
get !m up1 & e "t ,i  gave !m a dig 9   
s5sitive spots ) my bamboo /ick1 x only 
br\ght =? pitiable moans & groans4      
,t[>ds #aj ,a4,m4 ! /orm abat$ some:at1 
& we dug out ! loads &  dep>t$1 my m5   
/ill decl9+ to eat any food4 ,hungry &  
%iv]+1  !y 7 inde$ a pitiable sight4 ,_!
 normal s5se ( hum\r 0  sadly lack+ t   
day1 & !y /rode un/eadily1 ) long1      
m\rnful  faces1 z if !y 7 ab\t to m\nt !
 execution]'s scaffold4    ,we w5t on ! 
:ole day mo/ly 9 mi/ & sleet & sn[1 &   
t[>ds  ev5+ we arriv$ at ! bottom ( !   
valley4 ,excitem5t did n  altoge!r lack4
 ,?ree avalan*es came d[n dur+ ! day )  
deaf5+ fracas4 ,"o ( !m1 :i* br\ght d[n 
a lot ( dbris &  rock1 s\nd$ l a regul> 

battle1 ) %>p fusilad+ & big  artill]y1 
) a deaf5+ report at ! end :i* almo/    
/unn$ u4    ,next we came to a broad    
riv] :i* x 0 necess>y to =d1 &  wad+    
across x *ill$ u ab\t z mu* z we c\ld   
endure4 ,our toes  got s cold--almo/    
fro/-bitt5--t x requir$ "s m9utes (     
rubb+ & ?ump+ be=e we c\ld /& ^u !m     
aga94 ,! pa9  0 q excruciat+4    ,:ile  
we 7 9 ?is plight we he>d voices4 ,we   
answ]$1 &  pres5tly two ,jumli %eph]ds1 
half-sc>$ & %aggy1 cauti\sly  approa*$  
u4 ,we receiv$ ! in=mation t "s few m   
h\rs'  m>*+ w\ld take u to ! village (  
,t9k]1 & = x we made  ) r5ew$ vig\r4    
,/umbl+ & slipp+ con/antly aft] x got   
d>k1 we w5t on & on4 ,m sn[1 m w9d4 ,h\r
 aft] h\r pass$1  b no village4 ,at la/1
 at #c ,a4,m41 my m5 half-dead ) fatigue
 &  hung]1 we arriv$ at ! mode/ little  
village ( ,t9k]4 ,my m5 _h  wilfully be5
 =ty consecutive h\rs )\t a morsel (    
food1 b  once "u a ro( ) a blaz+ fire1  
!y 7 n[ prep>+ to make  up = lo/ "t4    
,,*apt] ,,xi      ,t9k] is a village (  

,%okas1 at no less an elevation by      
hypsometrical  app>atus ?an #ab1ffd     
feet4 ,our arrival necess>ily caus$ a   
great deal  ( commotion1 & ev]ybody 0 up
 to see :at 0 happ5+4    ,x is ! cu/om 9
 t "p ( ,nepal--a habit ( all ,%okas    
g5]ally--t no /rang] mu/ ent] a village 
aft] sunset )\t  s5d+ a mess5g] ahead to
 w>n ! resid5ts2 s1 accord+ to _!  code 
( mann]s1 we 7 committ+ a gross brea* ( 
etiquette4 ,i well  knew ?is1 & ^u      
arrival imm$iately ask$ = ! *iefta9 ( ! 
village to express my sorr[ t we 7      
unable to advise him ( our  arrival4    
,! *ief 0 a spl5did fell[--an old fri5d 
( m9e--a man ) a  he>t ( gold & ! mann] 
( a mo/ poli%$ g5tleman4 ,he plac$  8   
h\se at my disposal1 & %[]$ ^u u lavi%  
pres5ts (  food--fre% meat1 rice1 ghur1 
& dri$ fruit4 ,he w\ld on no acc\nt     
accept money1 s ,i gave him pres5ts (   
v>i\s k9ds1 & di/ribut$  ! money among 8
 family & s]vants4    ,i h ev] made x a 
rule nev] to accept pres5ts f anybody   
any:]e1 &1 :5 gifts are =c$ ^u me1 to   

give back "s gift (  equival5t value4 ,)
 natives p>ticul>ly ,i ev] foll[$ ?is   
gold5  rule1 nev]!less display+         
gratitude = _! ?\ghtful (f]+s4    ,!    
h\se 9 :i* we dwelt 0 a /one /ructure1 !
 rooms only "s  #g feet high1 ) little  
slits ( w9d[s & a some:at disjo9t$      
door4 ,:5 a huge fire 0 light$ 9 ! room1
 ) no escape = !  smoke or heat1 y 7    
simply roa/$ & suffocat$1 b aft] our    
cold1 fireless nights on ! glaci]s ?is  
felt to u ! mo/  com=table & luxuri\s   
abode we _h ev] be5 94 ,fleas !re 7  9  
abundance--little fleas ) m>vell\s jump+
 p[]s1 & giant  ones ( a/\nd+ voracity4 
,) _! prov]bial p>tiality =  /rang]s1 !y
 ( c\rse direct$ _! undivid$ att5tion to
 u  new-com]s1 & p>ticul>ly to me4 ,9 a 
mom5t we 7 cov]$ )  hundr$s ( bites4    
,! *iefta9 told me h[ ! ,tibetans on !  
fronti] close by 7 9  a great /ate (    
excitem5t ov] my approa*4 ,!y boa/$ (   
hav+  #ejjj soldi]s ready to meet me1 & 
he>+ t ,i 0 n[ on ,nepal  t]ritory !y _h
 despat*$ !m to ! ,t9k] ,pass to capture

 me4  ,! ,tibetans _h be5 = "s days busy
 poli%+ up _! mat*locks  & gr9d+ _!     
swords1 & !y _h accumulat$ l>ge piles ( 
/ones to precipitate d[n ^u me 9 rav9es 
:i* we _h to get  ?r\gh4 ,! same /ories 
,i _h on _m occasions he>d be=e1 bo? on 
my previ\s j\rney into ,tibet & on !    
pres5t4    ,:5 we got up 9 ! morn+ a    
great _m yaks came 9 lad5 )  ,tibetan   
wool1 :i* ! natives b>t] ) ,tibetans 9  
ex*ange =  food-/uff1 & also long /r+s (
 %eep & goats ) d\ble sacks  slung      
across ! back & fill$ ) borax4 ,) "s (  
^!  c>avans1 unluckily1 arriv$--unse5 by
 me--"s ,tibetan spies1 & !y  at once   
set to "w to sc>e ! villag]s4 ,!re 0 a  
sudd5  commotion 9 ! village1 ! natives 
ran "h & !re convey+  _! *ildr51 goods1 
& *attels into _! h\ses1 & 9 ^!  !y     
b>ricad$ !mselves4 ,only ! *ief rema9$  
cool & collect$2  &1 to avoid gett+ him 
into tr\ble1 & by way ( precaution1 ,i  
%ift$ my qu>t]s f 8 h\se to a high po9t 
comm&+ !  village1 :]e ,i pit*$ my t5ts1
 plac+ m5 ) load$ rifles on  gu>d ( my  

baggage4    ,x look$ v mu* z if !re 7   
tr\ble brew+ ahead4 ,"s (  ^! ,nepalese 
,%okas are v curi\s p1 %ifty &          
unfa?omable1  ! life !y lead be+ "o (   
semi-brig&age & trad+4 ,!y are  int]e/+ 
en\gh z a type--flat-fac$ & ( /rongly   
,mongolian  features1 z 9 ! portraits ( 
! long-hair$ "y m5 ,i give 9  two ( !   
col\r$ plates--& !y h f contact adopt$  
"s (  ! da% & indep5d5ce ( ! ,nepalese4 
,we took no notice ( !  w>like          
prep>ations1 & :5 "s "y fell[s1 bold]   
?an !  re/1 came out ( _! h\ses to in=m 
u rudely t we mu/ g at  once1 !y duly _h
 _! heads pun*$4 ,we w\ld g :5 x pleas$ 
me1 & n be=e4    ,bad luck nev] comes   
s+ly1 b x c sometimes be turn$ into good
  luck4 ,a ,nepalese ag5t also arriv$   
e>ly t morn+1 & c\ld  p]suade no m      
mess5g]s to come & approa* me on !      
subject (  dep>t+ f _! c\ntry1 s he _h  
to come on ! err& himself4    ,) _m     
salaams ! ,nepalese (fic] came =?1 &1   
aft] t5d]  inquiries aft] e possible    
exi/+ & imag9>y relative ( m9e  he c\ld 

?9k (1 he g5tly ent]$ ^u ! "q ( my leav+
  ! c\ntry4 ,ask$ :e!r he w\ld l 8 head 
pun*$ too1 or a  gift ( five rupees n to
 worry me & induce ! natives to sell me 
#cjj lbs4 ( rice1 "s goats1 ghur1 &     
butt]1 he at once said he  pref]r$ !    
five rupees1 & w\ld endeav\r to d all he
 c\ld to be  ( assi/ance4 ,9 fact1 he   
w5t into ! village aga91 & %ortly  aft] 
! provisions 7 duly sold to me4    ,y   
see1 five rupees w\ld be to him1 9      
,nepal1 z mu* z he w\ld  receive 9 ca% f
 8 ,gov]nm5t = two mon?s' sal>y4    ,we 
sacrific$ a goat = luck--! luck consi/+ 
*iefly 9 ! d9n]  t foll[$--& 9 !        
aft]noon we made a />t 9 ord] to cross  
! ,tibetan fronti]4    ,! ,t9k] village 
is p]*$ on a height "s di/ance f ! spot 
:]e ! two pr9cipal s\rces ( ! ,t9k] riv]
 jo9--"o com+  f ! five glaci]s to ! ea/
 7^? describ$ 9 ! previ\s  *apt]71 ! o!r
 s\rce desc5d+ precipit\sly & ) great   
=ce f ! ,t9k] ,glaci] high] up1 to !    
nor? ( ! village1  & spread+ 9 a ,n4,e4 
direction4    ,t9k] itself is a qua9t & 

int]e/+ place4 ,fly+  pray]s--g5]ally   
pieces ( :ite clo?--decorat$ e ro( 9 !  
village1 & "s %rubs 7 simil>ly decorat$ 
) hundr$s (  /rips ( clo?--r$1 blue1 or 
:ite--deposit$ !re by devotees4         
,*okd5s--piles ( /ones--7 num]\s1 _m (  
!m con/ruct$ (  /ones ea* ( :i* 0       
inscrib$ ) ! ,tibetan pray]--8,om mani  
padme hum40    ,f>!r up ! m\nta9 "o f\nd
 curi\s anci5t cave-dwell+s1  id5tical )
 ^? ,i h 9 a previ\s "w describ$ at     
,taklakot1  9 ,tibet1 ! peculi>         
composition ( ! rock p]mitt+ ! *amb]s   
to be holl[$ out ) comp>ative ease4 ,^! 
dwell+s are v  suitable = t climate1 be+
 relatively w>m 9 w9t] & cool 9  summ]1 
besides answ]+ all ! purposes ( a =tress
 :5 built  high up into a cliff4 ,9     
,tibet itself ^! cliff-dwell+s are mo/  
elaborate1 & are connect$ by means (    
intricate passages &  gall]ies go+ "r up
 to ! summit ( ! high cliff4 ,out] ways 
(  communication are also noticeable1 9 
! =m ( dang]\s-look+  /eps & %>p & n>r[ 
gradi5ts1 by :i* ! lodg]s c f9d  access 

to or escape f _! ap>tm5ts4    ,^u !    
high] ,himahlyas1 9 c]ta9 select$ po9ts1
 su* z on  passes1 or :]e two trails    
bran* (f1 or ne> villages1 is g5]ally   
to be f\nd a gay exhibition ( fly+      
pray]s1 hundr$s ( !m1  susp5d$ f ropes  
/ret*$ across ^u high poles4 ,l>ge      
bann]s  are also frequ5tly to be se5 at 
^! spots4 ,pass+ c>avans make  ^!       
fav\rite halt+-places4 ,bo? ! wom5 (    
,tibet & ^? (  neighb\r+ tribes (t5     
select ^! spots = /ret*+ _!  h&-looms & 
weav+ _! fabrics4    ,! ,t9k] ,glaci] 0 
a v beautiful sight ) its high t]races1 
& we foll[$ x = its entire l5g? on our  
way up to ! pass4 ,x  0 a long & /eep   
climb1 mo/ly on sn[1 & z ! trail 0 l[   
d[n betwe5 high m\nta9s to ! ,s4,w4 &   
,n4,e4 ! sun did n  p5etrate = any l5g? 
( "t1 s t ! cold 0 int5se4 ,my m5  7 r  
heavily lad51 & at sunset1 ow+ to our   
late />t1 we  _h gone b a few miles4    
,we halt$ at a ,tibetan camp+-gr\nd1 :]e
 !re 7 a numb] (  black ,tibetan t5ts1  
_! occupants bolt+ full-spe$ up !       

m\nta9-side z soon z !y saw u4 ,aft] "s 
coax+1 & promises  t we w\ld 9 no way   
h>m !m1 !y gradually return$ & att5d$   
to _! bus9ess4 ,! wom5 _h erect$ a great
 _m looms outside !  t5ts1 & "s jolly1 b
 some:at %aggy1 females 7 noisily &     
busily engag$ beat+ wool previ\s to     
pack+2 o!rs 7 sp9n+  x & w9d+ x r\nd    
long rods2 o!rs 7 spe$ily mak+ n>r[     
/rips ( clo? ^u _! looms4 ,^u receiv+   
small pres5ts !y  became q fri5dly1 &   
gave mu* in=mation reg>d+ ! w>          
prep>ations ( _! c\ntrym54 ,!y said     
?\s&s ( soldi]s 7  gu>d+ ! pass4        
,next morn+ ,i w5t to see = myself1 b ! 
,tibetan soldi]s _h1  :5 ,i arriv$1     
already beat5 a ha/y retreat1 leav+ no?+
 m  ?an _! footm>ks on ! sn[4 ,al?\gh ,i
 con/antly he>d ( ?is  =midable army1 ,i
 nev] 0 able to cat* x up dur+ my       
incursions1  or e/abli% its exact       
position1 mu* less meet x4    ,ev]ybody 
has he>d s mu* ( late ( ,tibetan sc5]y &
 travell+  t x w p]haps be m agreeable  
to ! read] if ,i devote mo/  ( ! space  

:i* rema9s at my disposal to !          
description ( "s  ,tibetan cu/oms4 ,x is
 well kn[n t ,tibet is a high plateau1  
,s4,w4  ,tibet especially1 :]e mo/ ( my 
exploration ext5d$1 av]ag+  heights ( f 
#ae1jjj to #ai1jjj feet1 s t p :o live 9
 su*  a climate & su* a c\ntry are b\nd 
to h peculi>ities ( _!  own1 & _! ways  
(f] _m curi\s problems4    ,fir/ ( all1 
,i w answ] "s ( ! mo/ common            
que/ions--g5]ally  v /upid--:i* ,i am   
daily be+ ask$ by p :o try to be  clev]1
 ab\t ! ,=bidd5 ,l&4    8,if y say t    
,tibet is su* a high plateau1 b>r5 &    
cold1 ) no  trees & no agriculture to   
speak (1 h[ is x t ! p live  !re80      
,well1 if p /op to ?9k a little1 ! same 
"q applies to  e c\ntry4 ,:y d negroes  
live 9 ,c5tral ,africa1 :]e x is s  hot8
 ,:y d p g & live 9 ,panama1 :]e x is s 
unheal?y8 ,:y  d we live 9 ,london1 :]e 
x is s foggy & damp8 ,9 ! case ( !      
,tibetans1 z ) ev]ybody else 9 reg>d to 
_! native l&1 !y  believe t no c\ntry 9 
! _w c possibly comp>e ) _!  own--:i*1  

inde$1 9 a s5se1 is true4 ,!y believe _!
 l& is !  mo/ beautiful1 ! ri*e/1 !     
heal?ie/ on e>?1 _! religion  ! only "o1
 _! civilisation ! highe/4    ,!        
,tibetans1 hav+ liv$ = s _m g5]ations at
 su* great  altitudes1 suff] a great    
deal :5 !y travel to l[] elevations1  & 
!y exp]i5ce a feel+ ( suffocation &     
heav9ess :i* makes  !m v ill & frequ5tly
 causes _! dea?4 ,?is is n s mu*  ! case
 ) natives ( ! ,sikkim di/rict & (      
,lhassa1 :i* are  at a mu* l[]          
elevation2 b ,i am talk+ pr9cipally ( ! 
natives  ( ,s4,w4 ,tibet1 few ( :om live
 at an elevation ( less ?an #ae1jjj     
feet4    8,!n10 say o!r wise folks1 8if 
y ma9ta9 t next to no?+  gr[s 9 ,tibet1 
t ! p are n f>m]s1 h[ d !y manage to    
live80    ,! answ] is simple4 ,!        
,tibetans import all _! food f ,india1  
,nepal1 ,ca%m]e1 & ,*9a dur+ ! summ]    
mon?s1 :ile !  sn[-passes are op51 & !y 
/ore x 9 suffici5t quantities to  la/ !m
 all ?r\gh ! w9t]4 ,:eat1 rice1 tsamba  
7a k9d (  oatmeal71 ghur 7sweet pa/e71  

sug> are b>t]$ 9 l>ge quantities 9      
ex*ange = borax1 salt1 %eep1 & yak wool4
    ,ano!r "q t seems to puzzle mo/ p is
 :y poly&ry  exi/s legally 9 ,tibet     
in/ead ( our m>riage cu/oms or polygamy1
  & 9 ! next *apt] ,i w endeav\r to     
expla9 ! reason1 z well  z :y wom5 are s
 mu* less num]\s ?an m54                
,,*apt] ,,xii      ,! fir/ two ?+s t    
/rike an obs]vant travell] on ent]+ a   
,tibetan encampm5t are t ! numb] (      
*ildr5 9 ! population is  s small1 & t !
 majority ( ,tibetans appe>1 to         
,european eyes1  middle-ag$1 or ev5 old 
& decrepit4 ,! second rem>k is m easily 
expla9$ ?an ! fir/1 & _m are ! reasons  
:i* cause ,tibetan  m5 & wom5 to look   
well on 9 ye>s long be=e !y h atta9$ a  
really advanc$ age4 ,i h se5 a man ) h&s
 & face s wr9kl$  t he might easily pass
 = an octog5>ian1 yet he 0 no m ?an     
?ree-&-=ty4    ,! wom5 manage to pres]ve
 _! complexion slightly bett] ?an !  m51
 by sme>+ ! *eeks1 nose1 & =ehead ) a   
black o9tm5t4  ,?is1 to a c]ta9 ext5t1  

prev5ts ! sk9 *app+ 9 ! cold1 b  ! w9ds 
9 ,tibet are s t]rific t !y are disa/r\s
 to any  human sk91 :e!r besme>$ )      
grease or n4 ,inde$1 no "o :o  has n be5
 9 ,tibet kn[s :at w9d c be4 ,i _c bett]
 describe  a gale ?an by lik5+ x to     
myriads ( knives ?r[n at "o )  great    
=ce4 ,x cuts into "o ?r\gh any k9d (    
clo?+1 &  p5etrates to ! m>r[ ( "o's    
bones4 ,! sk91 p>ticul>ly :]e  expos$1  
*aps & cracks & becomes a mass ( sores1 
unless !  con/ant precaution is tak5 (  
keep+ x well soak$ 9 butt]1  grease1 or 
vasel9e4    ,aga91 ! int5se gl>e ( !    
sn[-cov]$ l&scape & !  extraord9>y      
brilliancy ( ! atmosph]e compel !       
natives  con/antly to fr[n--z may be    
notic$ 9 _m ( ! illu/rations  reproduc$ 
9 ?is "w--9 ord] to scre5 _! semi-clos$ 
eyes z  mu* z possible f ! bl9d+ light4 
,?is ev]la/+ fr[n1 (  c\rse1 cov]s !    
=ehead ) deep wr9kles & grooves1 :ile   
8cr['s feet0 9 cont9uation ( ! outw>d   
corn]s ( ! eyes &  deep *annels at bo?  
ends ( ! lips disfigure ! faces (       

,tibetans  at an e>ly age4 ,naturally1  
to a ,european ^! wr9kles at once       
sugge/ age1 :]eas !y are m]ely caus$ by 
! inclem5t wea!r1  & !y h be5 ! *ief    
cause :i* has l$ casual obs]v]s to      
describe ! population ( ,tibet z compos$
 ma9ly ( old p4    ,ano!r curi\s fact   
wor? notic+ is t1 accord+ to !oretical  
sci5ti/s1 ! greatly r>efi$ air ( !      
,tibetan plateau %\ld  ret>d ! gr[? (   
human be+s1 & t !re=e a ,tibetan %\ld   
rea* ! age ( pub]ty lat] 9 life ?an p   
liv+ 9 a  correspond+ latitude b at l[] 
elevations4 ,?is is n ! case at  all4   
,tibetan boys & girls atta9 a /ate (    
maturity at a  comp>atively e>ly age4 ,i
 h (t5 notic$ girls ( fifte5 or  sixte5 
& boys ( eighte5 or n9ete5 fully        
develop$1 & x is at  ^! respective ages 
t m5 & wom5 ( ,tibet frequ5tly m>ry4    
,n[ let u try to expla9 :y "o sees s few
 *ildr5 9 ,tibet4  ,p]sonally1 ,i ?9k x 
is ma9ly due to ! cu/om ( poly&ry       
prevail+ 9 ! c\ntry1 :i* is b\nd to h   
disa/r\s effects  ^u ! bir?-rate (      

heal?y1 /rong *ildr51 ) det]iorat+      
results ^u e g5]ation2 & also und\bt$ly 
! altitudes at  :i* ! p live to a great 
ext5t limit ! increase (  population4 ,!
 g5]ally unheal?y condition ( mo/       
,tibetans' blood  also greatly          
contributes to ! non-f]tility ( p>5ts4  
,we h yet ano!r curi\s fact4 ,to an     
av]age ( fifte5 male  *ildr5 :o are born
 & live 9 ,tibet1 only "o female *ild is
  heal?y en\gh to survive4 ,!re are     
v>i\s reasons = ?is1 & x  w\ld be       
difficult to discov] ! prim>y "o2 b 9 my
 m9d1 &  f p]sonal obs]vation1 ,i c\ld n
 help associat+ t fact )  ^! two        
pr9cipal causes4 ,fir/1 ! food diet ( ! 
p>5ts1 :i*  c]ta9ly has m>k$ effects on 
! production ( "o sex m ?an  ano!r2     
secondly1 ! great] mortality among !    
weak] female  *ildr54 ,tibetans always  
told me t ! dea?-rate 9 *ildr5 "u  ! age
 ( two ye>s 0 v great 9 proportion to ! 
numb] (  bir?s4    ,x is impossible to  
give exact /ati/ics1 b1 f con/ant       
inquiry  f families ,i met1 ,i came to !

 conclusion t an av]age ( ?ree  *ildr5  
out ( sev5 born succumb be=e ! age (    
five4 ,( ^!  dea?s1 ! majority w\ld be  
female *ildr54    ,! life ( a ,tibetan  
baby is n a m]ry "o at be/4 ,he is *]i%$
  by 8 "m :5 newly born1 & = "s days !  
new-com] af=ds  amusem5t to ! t5t-mates 
& ! memb]s ( ! tribe4 ,occasional       
c>esses are be/[$ ^u him1 b ! trials (  
hav+ a lov+  "m soon beg94 ,%e w besme> 
him f head to foot sev]al times  daily )
 yak butt]1 ! "m realis+ t by ?is       
process !  sk9 ( h] infant w be made    
imp]vi\s to cold2 & ) mat]nal  fondness 
%e w press & =ce ! butt] into e pore ( 8
  little body4 ,?is done1 ! baby is left
 nak$ 9 ! sun s t "u  ! heat ( its rays 
8 sk9 may absorb ! maximum ( melt$      
butt]4    ,8 next torture comes 9 ! %ape
 ( pi]c+ 8 poor little e>s4  ,! lobes   
are rubb$ betwe5 ! fir/ f+] & ?umb until
 !y  become numb$1 !n ) a long silv] or 
brass p9 ! hole is made1  ! fond "m be+ 
aga9 ! op]ator4 ,z c>e is nev] tak5 to  
dis9fect ! p9 f ! accumulation ( dirt ^u

 x1 & z t  v same p9 has = g5]ations be5
 us$ 9 ! v>i\s capacities  ( too?-1     
nose-1 & e>-pick1 nail-clean]1 & head- &
  back-scrat*]1 x is n infrequ5t to f9d 
t ! e>-pi]c+  op]ation is accompani$ by 
inflammation or "s na/y sore or o!r1    
caus+ ! little fell[ mu* unnecess>y pa94
 ,heavy e>-r+s are  next ins]t$1        
elongat+ & disfigur+ ! little e>s1 9 _m 
in/ances ! lobes actually te>+ d[n      
altoge!r ow+ to !  weight ( ! e>-r+4    
,until a few mon?s old ! baby is made to
 lie 9 a basket1 9 :i* he  is c>ri$ ab\t
 on 8 "m's back--t is to say1 if ! "m is
  9 a com=table en\gh position to own a 
basket4 ,o!rwise %e w  c>ry him on h]   
back1 susp5d$ by 8 little arms1 :i* %e  
tightly  clasps ov] h] %\ld]s2 & z ?is  
mode ( transport some:at lacks  com=t1 x
 is r curi\s to notice ! intellig5ce (  
,tibetan  babies 9 ord] to feel ! lea/  
inconv5i5ce possible4 ,"u simil>        
circum/ances ! av]age civilis$ baby :o  
felt 8 little arms  almo/ pull$ out ( _!
 sockets w\ld v likely cry & scream1    

helplessly dangl+ 8 legs 9 ord] to be   
aga9 deposit$ on t]ra  firma4 ,!        
,tibetan baby kn[s bett]4 ,guid$ only by
 8 in/9cts1 he  w clasp 8 "m's wai/ ) 8 
little toes1 s supple t he  c use !m    
almo/ l f+]s4 ,by ?us support+ 8 own    
weight  ^u h] hips 9 ! id5tical position
 ( a monkey climb+ a tree1  ! t5sion on 
8 arms is absolutely releas$ & he looks 
q at  8 ease1 ev5 com=table4    ,babies 
9 ,tibet1 z 9 o!r l&s1 d n lack a       
tempor>y *>m4 ,!y  are by nature good1  
well-behav$ babies2 occasionally !y are 
ev5  jolly4 ,! clo!s 9 :i* _! mo!rs g>b 
!m are n devoid (  qua9tness1--z c be   
judg$ by "s ( ! illu/rations1--& if (t5 
size is pref]r$ to /yle1 x is1 z 9 mo/  
c\ntries1 = economy's  sake4 ,sometimes 
,i h se5 babies simply smo!r$ 9 beads & 
ornam5ts1 b ev5 ! humble/ displays a r[ 
( beads r\nd 8 neck  & a *>m or two4    
,not)/&+ :at has be5 said ( ! /range    
m>ital cu/oms1 !  av]age ,tibetan woman 
is seldom absolutely /]ile4 ,?is1 (     
c\rse1 is  ma9ly due to ! fact t if %e  

survives at all to ! age (  pub]ty1 x is
 because %e is /rong & heal?y2 b at be/ 
%e is  nev] s prolific z h] ,asiatic    
si/]s or ev5 ,european wom54 ,9  ,tibet 
"o r>ely f9ds a woman ) m ?an ?ree liv+ 
*ildr54  ,! majority ( mo!rs c only boa/
 ( "o4 ,yet1 on ! o!r h&1  ! ,tibetan   
woman c be> *ildr5 until a fairly       
advanc$ age4 ,i  rememb] meet+ a lady :o
 ackn[l$g$ h] age--aft] complicat$      
computation ) ! aid ( f+]s & toes--to be
 =ty4 ,h] sk9 0  s wr9kl$ & r\gh t )\t  
malici\sness "o c\ld h put h]  d[n at   
fifty-five1 b maybe %e spoke ! tru?--%e 
c]ta9ly 0 n  less ?an :at %e _h /at$4   
,%e c>ri$ 9 h] arms a baby a few  mon?s 
old4    8,x is my baby10 %e pr\dly said1
 scre5+ ) h] h& ! fat  (fspr+ to prev5t 
! 8evil eye0 ( an inquisitive =eign]4   
8,g  away2 d n t\* him or he w die40    
,i 0 9 a *aff+ mood1 & *aff 9 ,tibet c  
nev] be too p]sonal4    8,i d n believe 
t he c be y\r baby1 = he has a smoo? sk9
  & y\rs is r\gh & wr9kl$4 ,7 he y\r    
*ild he w\ld h a  sk9 l y\rs40    ,!    

woman1 half-amus$1 half-a/oni%$1 call$  
witnesses to te/ify  t ! baby 0 really  
h]s1 & aft] assum$ reluctance ,i        
ackn[l$g$ t !re exi/$ "s resemblance    
betwe5 "m &  son1 9 ! lack ( nose4      
8,:y10 ,i ask$ h]1 8did y n h ! *ild    
soon]1 s t he  might n[ be a help &     
com=t to y 9 y\r old age80    ,%e said  
%e _h _h two o!r *ildr51 b !y _h di$1 "o
 :5  only 8a few moons0 old1 ! o!r :5   
ab\t f\r ye>s ( age4    ,) ! exception (
 ! few l>g] t[ns1 ,tibet is peopl$ by   
small1  semi-nomadic tribes4 ,a l>ge    
tribe may numb] a hundr$ t5ts1 b !      
av]age is f t5 to fifty t5ts4 ,ea* t5t  
is inhabit$ by "o  family1 al?\gh       
inve/igation g5]ally br+s out ! fact t  
ne>ly all memb]s ( a tribe are relat$ to
 "o ano!r ow+ to !  con/ant int]m>riage 
among !mselves4    ,?is con/ant         
int]m>riage also contributes to a great 
ext5t to !  decad5ce ( ! race g5]ally1 &
 to ! dim9ution ( !  population ) ea*   
g5]ation4    ,i _h sev]al opportunities 
( notic+ ! diff]5ce :i* exi/$  :5 ei!r !

 wife or husb& _h come f a di/ant tribe4
 ,!re  7 g5]ally m *ildr5 to ! union1 & 
!y 7 inv>iably  /rong]1 bo? physically &
 m5tally4 ,! ,tibetans are well aw>e (  
?is1 & :5 a tribe is likely to die out f
 ! causes ,i h  /at$1 fre% blood is     
import$ into x by ! advice ( ! ,lamas 9 
ord] to revive x4    ,i f\nd t ! clev]] 
m5 ,i met 9 ! c\ntry 7 g5]ally born  f  
p>5ts ( diff]5t tribes1 & n infrequ5tly 
( widely  sep>at$ social positions4     
,9 cases ( crosses betwe5 diff]5t races 
altoge!r1 su* z a  ,tibetan & a         
,nepalese1 = in/ance1 or a ,%oka1 or o!r
 fronti]  tribes1 ! families 7 l>g]2 b  
^! semi-=eign m>riages are  n common1 & 
_c be giv5 z a g5]al rule4    ,wilful   
infanticide is seldom practis$ 9 ,tibet1
 & _c be put d[n  z "o ( ! causes limit+
 population4 ,x1 ( c\rse1 occasionally  
occurs1 = in/ance1 9 ord] to suppress an
 illegitimate *ild1 b  ! cu/om is       
greatly look$ d[n ^u by ,tibetans1      
al?\gh no  puni%m5t--beyond ! contempt (
 ! entire tribe--w\ld be met$ out  to ! 

culprits4    ,! wom5 ( ,tibet are seldom
 sep>at$ f "o or o!r ( _!  husb&s4 ,:5  
"o man goes = "s days to take ! yaks or 
%eep to  a di/ant graz+ gr\nd1 ano!r    
fills 8 place 9 ! t5t4  ,occasionally m 
?an "o ( h] legal husb&s live toge!r    
happily  "u ! same t5t1 b usually n m   
?an "o at a "t4    ,z ,i h fully expla9$
 9 a previ\s book1 ,9 ! ,=bidd5 ,l&1    
m>riages are pr9cipally family          
arrangem5ts1 :]e a girl becomes !  wife 
( sev]al bro!rs2 &1 9 any case1 ba*elors
 are1 z a :ole1  to be greatly          
congratulat$ 9 ,tibet4    ,o!r m9or     
causes !re are :i* t5d to limit         
population1 b :i*  _c v well be m5tion$ 
"h4 ,sev]al diseases ( ! blood--v       
common--decid$ly d n improve ! race2 &  
possibly all ^!  evils--"s natural1 "s  
unnatural--may 9 "t br+ ab\t !          
disappe>ance ( ! ,tibetan race f _! l(ty
 & sacr$ l&4                  ,,*apt]   
,,xiii      ,ano!r ?+ t /rikes !        
travell] 9 ,tibet is ! /urd9ess (       
,tibetan ponies1--long-hair$1 %ort1     

/umpy little brutes1 :i* possess  mo/   
m>vell\s endurance "u circum/ances :i*  
w\ld kill mo/  horses4 ,!y live on      
:atev] grass !y c f9d1 :i* is n mu*--at 
be/1 %ort semi-dri$ blades :i* take a   
good deal ( look+ =  be=e y c see !m at 
all4 ,tibet ponies h all ! qualities (  
a goat & antelope comb9$1 & ,i h se5 !m1
 ) a rid] on  _! back1 g up gradi5ts :]e
 a human be+ w\ld h great  difficulty to
 g up on foot4    ,! dogs ( ,tibet are n
 q s attractive1 be+ ei!r vici\s to  a  
degree or else /upid1 lazy1 & un9t]e/+4 
,! common k9d is  n unlike our %eep-dog1
 except t ! hair is long]1 :i* 9 "s     
cases gives !m a slight appe>ance (     
collie dogs4 ,!y are g5]ally  ill-treat$
 & suff]+1 & !y seem to h no affection =
  anybody4 ,!y possess pl5ty (          
intellig5ce1 especially ^? tra9$  by    
%eph]ds1 & !y are inde$ a great help to 
_! ma/]s 9  driv+ ! flock 9 ! "r        
direction & keep+ ! %eep  toge!r4 ,^!   
%eep-dogs are g5]ally made to c>ry a    
broad lea!r  coll> ) an imm5se brass    

bell4    ,p]haps1 talk+ ( dogs'         
affection1 ,i might "h give "s acc\nt ( 
a ,tibetan dog--a fri5d ( m9e--t ,i met 
on my fir/ exp$ition into  ,tibet1 :ile 
,i 0 be+ *as$ all ov] ! c\ntry by !     
,tibetan  army4 ,"o night1 dur+ a /orm1 
we 7 attack$1 & ,i he>d a numb]  (      
voices ar\nd my camp4 ,i only _h two m5 
left1 & we jump$ up to  def5d ourselves4
 ,/ones 7 flung at u ) sl+s--an art at  
:i*  bo? ,tibetan m5 & wom5 excel4 ,f _!
 e>lie/ *ildhood !y  keep 9 con/ant     
practice at fl++ /ones1 & 9 daylight !y 
c  hit ! m>k ) great accuracy4 ,%eph]ds 
use !m con/antly1 &  c pick out any %eep
 9 a flock ( hundr$s4 ,we kept close to 
!  gr\nd1 rifle 9 h&1 a few feet f our  
t5t1 to avoid be+ hit1 z  evid5tly !y 7 
aim+ at x1 x be+ ( a lighti% col\r4 ,!y 
/ruck x sev]al times4 ,) !m 0 a dog b>k+
 furi\sly all !  "t4 ,dog & m5 seem$ to 
be approa*+--at lea/1 by ! s\nds (  _!  
voices1 = ,i c\ld n see !m4 ,?is seem$  
an appropriate "t  to fire a %ot1 :i*   
w\ld und\bt$ly1 z usual1 cause a /amp$e4

 ,x  did4 ,only ! dog rema9$1 b>k+ &    
yelp+ ! :ole night1 b we  7 o!rwise n   
tr\bl$ 9 any o!r way1 al?\gh1 ( c\rse1  
we  kept wat* until sunrise1 :5 all we  
f\nd 7 num]\s fre%  footm>ks a few y>ds 
f our t5t4    ,! dog ran ab\t a good    
deal1 b>k+ & b>k+1 until we prep>$  our 
breakfa/1 :5 he sat himself d[n ^u 8    
h9dqu>t]s &  wat*$ ! proce$+s ) ke5     
int]e/4 ,he seem$ v %y1 &  :5ev] we tri$
 to get ne> him he bolt$ away ) 8 tail  
betwe5  8 legs1 h[l+ madly z if he _h   
be5 hit by a /one4 ,dogs 9 ,tibet  are s
 accu/om$ to h /ones flung at !m at e   
possible  opportunity t no d\bt 9 8     
imag9ation he fanci$ he _h be5 hit  by a
 missile ea* "t we rais$ our h& to c>ess
 him4 ,animals are  n unlike p 9 t way4 
,at la/1 by (f]s ( t9n$ meat & ! use ( !
 fav\rite ,tibetan  t]m ( ende>m5t1     
8,*o*u1 *o*u10 ! dog became our fri5d4  
,he  seem$ utt]ly a/oni%$ at be+ c>ess$1
 & rubb$ himself  affectionately aga9/  
our legs4 ,he took a p>ticul> fancy to  
,mans+1  my fai?ful man :o develop$     

leprosy1 & f t day ! dog  foll[$ u      
ev]y:]e4 ,mans+1 :o 0 suff]+            
consid]ably1 &  :o took no int]e/ :atev]
 9 sci5tific obs]vations1 photography1  
survey+1 etc41 _h at la/ a sympa?is+    
fri5d to :om he c\ld  confide 8         
grievances4 ,! two 7 insep>able1 & :5ev]
 we  /opp$ ,mans+ pa!tically conv]s$ ) !
 dog1 :o seem$ almo/  to und]/& all !   
coolie 0 tell+ him4    ,x 0 r a puzzle  
to me :y ?is dog foll[$ u s long1 = we  
_h s little food t we c\ld b seldom sp>e
 him any4 ,he slept  ne> u at night ) 8 
head on ! lap ( "o ( u1 & dur+ !  m>* he
 %[$ q sport+ in/9cts by *as+ antelopes 
& kiang  7wild horse7 :5 we enc\nt]$    
h]ds ( hundr$s ( !m4 ,curi\sly  en\gh1  
:5 we ent]$ a ,tibetan encampm5t he     
always avoid$ be+  se5 9 our company4 ,x
 seem$ almo/ z if he realis$ t we 7  n  
welcome gue/s 9 ! c\ntry1 & fe>$ !      
consequ5ces4  ,possibly he only         
tempor>ily left u to see :at he c\ld    
pick up 9  ! way ( food1 b :5ev] we came
 across him 9 ! encampm5t1 he  nev] w\ld

 %[ signs ( recognition1 mu* less (     
affection1 z 0  ! case :5 he w\ld rejo9 
u "s miles beyond on ! m>*1 :5  he made 
ample ef=ts to re+ratiate himself4 ,he  
seem$ almo/ to want  to express3 8,sorry
 ,i _h to cut y 9 ! encampm5t1 b ,i     
really _h  to60    ,at la/ ! day came :5
 we 7 captur$1 & und]w5t sev]al k9ds  ( 
tortures1 z ,i h already describ$ 9 ,9 !
 ,=bidd5 ,l&4 ,!  dog _h vani%$1 &1 to  
tell ! tru?1 we did n give him mu* ( a  
?\ght1 z we 7 some:at conc]n$ ab\t      
ourselves4    ,"o day1 :5 ,mans+ & ,i 7 
/ret*$1 or r susp5d$1 on a  primitive   
k9d ( rack1 & we 7 = "s "t left to      
ourselves--!  soldi]s & ,lamas hav+     
retir$ "s di/ance (f into ! huge t5t  ( 
! ,pombo1 a high (ficial--! dog sadly   
walk$ t[>ds u1 sniff+  u1 & rubb+       
himself aga9/ ,mans+ & me4 ,he 0        
p>ticul>ly  affectionate to ,mans+1 ^:  
face he lick$ sev]al times2 !n )  a     
pa!tic movem5t ( 8 head z if to express 
8 sorr[1 he gave u  a p>t+ sad look1    
turn$ 8 back1 & walk$ sl[ly & sorr[fully

  away4 ,t 0 8 la/ m>k ( fri5d%ip & !   
la/ we saw ( him4    ,tibetan encampm5ts
 h no great int]e/ except = ! peculi>   
%ape ( ! black t5ts--a patt]n ( %elt]   
mo/ suitable = !  climate ( _! c\ntry4  
,! two sides ( ! t5t are sep>ate1 &  :5 
! t5t is put up x leaves an ap]ture all 
along its highe/  ridge4 ,?is is = v>i\s
 reasons4 ,fir/1 because ! ,tibetans    
light  fires inside _! t5ts1 & an op5+  
is necess>y to let ! smoke  out2 also z 
a means ( v5tilation1 ! cold air n      
p5etrat+ s  quickly z :5 x comes 9 at ! 
sides1 ow+ to ! w>m$  atmosph]e inside4 
,! black t5ts are wov5 ( a co>se &      
wat]pro(  fabric ( yak hair4 ,?r\gh !   
slit at ! top g5]ally protrude !  props 
( ! mat*locks bundl$ aga9/ "o ( ! t5t   
poles4    ,e man 9 ,tibet owns "o ( ^!  
weapons1 & is consid]$ a  soldi] 9 "t ( 
w>4    ,! inside ( a l>ge ,tibetan t5t  
is qua9t en\gh :5 y h  rea*$ x by skipp+
 ov] masses ( dirt & refuse :i* surr\nd 
its outside4 ,only1 :5 y peep 91 ! od\r 
is r /rong ( !  p1 old & "y1 all s9ce   

bir? innoc5t ( wa%+1 & !  smell (       
badly-prep>$ sk9s1 & /ores ( *ura       
7*eese74 ,nor mu/ ,i  =get to m5tion !  
wall ( yak-dung erect$ "r r\nd ! t5t    
inside to s]ve ! d\ble purpose (        
protection aga9/ ! w9d :]e  ! t5t meets 
! gr\nd1 & ( fuel1 be+ gradually        
demoli%$ to  fe$ ! d\ble mud-/ove erect$
 9 ! c5tre ( ! t5t4 ,mud alone  is also 
occasionally us$ = ! inside wall4    ,z 
y "k1 dung is practically ! only fuel   
obta9able 9 !  highe/ p>ts ( ,tibet1    
al?\gh occasionally a few l[ %rubs are  
to  be f\nd4 ,! fuel is con/antly       
collect$ & convey$ f "o camp  to ! next1
 :5 *ang+ 9 ord] to f9d m suitable graz+
 =  ! %eep & yaks4    ,! c5tre mud-/ove 
is built accord+ to ! mo/ practical     
notions  to make x draw prop]ly1 & ^u x 
c ne>ly always be se5 "o or  two l>ge   
raksangs1 brass vessels 9 :i* brick-tea 
is be+ /ew$  & /irr$ ) a long brass     
spoon4 ,b ! op]ation ( tea-mak+ is  r   
complicat$ 9 ,tibet4 ,aft] ! leaves h   
be5 /ew$ long  en\gh ! liquid is p\r$   

into a dongbo1 or cyl9drical wood5 *urn1
  9 :i* h be5 deposit$ sev]al balls (   
butt] ) copi\s  spr9kl+ ( salt4 ,a pi/on
 :i* passes ?r\gh ! movable lid is  !n  
vigor\sly set 9 action1 & :5 well /irr$ 
& /eam+ !  mixture is s]v$ all r\nd &   
avidly drunk 9 wood5 b[ls1 "o (  :i* e  
"o c>ries ab\t ! p]son4 ,tsamba1 a k9d (
 oatmeal1 is  frequ5tly mix$ ) ! tea 9 !
 b[ls1 :]e x is made into a  pa/e ) !   
f+]s4    ,no matt] h[ mu* non-,tibetan  
folks may f9d m]rim5t 9 ! idea (  tea   
be+ brew$ ) butt] & salt1 !re is no d\bt
 t = a  climate l ,tibet x is 8! dr9k0  
p> excell5ce4 ,x w>ms1  n\ri%es1 & is   
easily dige/$4 ,i v (t5 indulg$ 9 !     
luxury  myself1 :5 ,i c\ld obta9 butt]1 
only1 my dige/ion work+ r  rapidly ow+  
to ! am\nt ( r\gh+ we daily endur$1 ,i  
left out  ! salt s t ,i %\ld n dige/ !  
mixture too quickly4    ,! ri*] own]s ( 
t5ts g5]ally h a sort ( fold+ %r9e1  )  
"o or m images ( ,buddha1 :i* occupies !
 place ( hon\r  9 ! t5t4 ,num]\s brass  
b[ls & ornam5ts are display$ 9 front  ( 

^! images & also (f]+s ( tsamba & butt]4
 ,wicks1 burn+  9 butt]1 are            
occasionally light$ ar\nd & ^u ! %r9e4  
,decrepit old wom5 seem to sp5d mo/ ( _!
 "t revolv+ _!  pray]-:eels & mutt]+    
pray]s 9 front ( ^! alt>s1 & :5         
occasion arises ?us tea*+ little *ildr5 
to d ! same4 ,!  y\ng] folk1 too1 are v 
religi\s1 b n to ! fanatical ext5t  ( ! 
old] ones4    ,x is q amus+ to see      
little mites--*ildr5 are always qua9t 9 
e c\ntry--try to ma/] ! art ( revolv+ ! 
pray]-:eel4 ,x  mu/ be revolv$ f left to
 "r1 to pray 9 ! prop] fa%ion1--n  t if 
y revolv$ x ! o!r way y w\ld necess>ily 
be  swe>+1 only1 accord+ to ! laws (    
,tibetan ,buddhism1 pray]s spun  9 !    
wrong direction w\ld h no effect & br+  
no b5efit4 ,9 a  simil> way             
circumambulations1 ei!r r\nd hills =    
pilgrimages1 or  r\nd a t5t1 or r\nd a  
sacr$ lake1 mu/ always foll[ a simil>   
direction to ! revolv+ ( ! pray]-:eel4  
,9 ,lhassa & _m o!r sacr$ places        
fanatical pilgrims make ^!              

circumambulations1 sometimes = miles &  
miles1 & = days  toge!r1 cov]+ ! entire 
di/ance ly+ flat ^u _! bodies1  !n plac+
 ! feet :]e ! head 0 & /ret*+ !mselves  
full  l5g?4 ,inside temples a c5tral    
enclosure is provid$1 r\nd :i*  ^!      
circumambulations are p]=m$1 special    
devotions be+ (f]$  be=e ,buddha & _m ( 
! o!r gilt or high-col\r$ images :i*    
adorn ! walls ( ! temple4    ,z c be se5
 by ! col\r$ plate illu/rat+ "o ( ^!    
sc5es1  f ! ceil+ ( ! temple hang       
hundr$s ( long /rips1 ,katas1  (f]$ by  
pilgrims to ! temple & becom+ s _m fly+ 
pray]s  :5 hung up--= me*anical pray+ 9 
e way is prom95t 9 ,tibet4  ,!re is1    
aft] all1 no reason :y pray+ %\ld n be  
made easy l  ev]y?+ else4 ,?us1 in/ead (
 hav+ to le>n by he>t long &  v>i$      
pray]s1 all y h to d is to /uff ! entire
 pray]-book  7writt5 on a roll 9 ,tibet7
 into ! pray]-:eel1 & revolve x  :ile   
repeat+ z fa/ z y c g ^! f\r words3 8,om
 mani padme  hum10--words ( ,sanscrit   
orig9 & ref]r+ to ! re9c>nation (       

,buddha f a lotus fl[]1 lit]ally 8,o    
,god1 ! gem em]g+ f !  lotus fl[]40     
,! temples ( ,tibet1 except 9 ,lhassa   
itself1 are n beautiful 9 any  way--9   
fact1 !y are g5]ally v tawdry & dirty4  
,! att5tion (  ! pilgrims is direct$ to 
a l>ge box1 or (t5 a big b[l1 :]e  !y   
may deposit :atev] (f]+s !y c sp>e1 & x 
mu/ be said  t _! religi\s ideas are s  
/rongly develop$ t !y w  dispose ( a    
consid]able portion ( _! money 9 ?is    
fa%ion4    ,l>ge mona/]ies1 ( r$ or     
yell[ ,lamas1 are atta*$ to ^!  temples1
 :]e proselytes are also educat$4 ,^!   
,lamas1 :atev]  _! col\r1 are v clev] 9 
_m ways1 & h a great hold ov]  ! entire 
c\ntry4 ,!y are1 n9ety p] c5t ( !m1     
unscrupul\s  scamps1 deprav$ 9 e way1 & 
giv5 to e sort ( vice4 ,s are  ! wom5   
,lamas4 ,!y live & sponge on ! cr$ulity 
& ignorance (  ! cr[ds2 & x is to ma9ta9
 ?is ignorance1 ^u :i* _!  luxuri\s life
 dep5ds1 t =eign influ5ce ( e k9d is    
/rictly kept out ( ! c\ntry4 ,_!        
abnormal p[]s h be5  grossly exagg]at$4 

,!y practise1 x is true1 hypnotism1 b t 
is  all4 ,!y c p]=m no m m>vell\s feats 
?an any "o c d 9  ,engl& :o is able to  
mesm]ize4 ,z = ! ,mahatmas1 :o1 our     
spirituali/ic fri5ds tell u1 live 9     
,tibet1 !y are purely  imag9>y1 & d n   
exi/4 ,! ,tibetans h nev] he>d ( !m nor 
ab\t _! do+s4    ,p]sonally--& ,i am    
glad t ! few m5 :o "k ,tibet f p]sonal  
k & n f political rivalry agree ) me--,i
 believe t  ! intrigues ( ! ,lamas )    
,russia are absolute nons5se4 ,tibet1 x 
mu/ be rememb]$1 0 n =bidd5 to ,engli%m5
 only1 b to  ev]ybody f e side1 :e!r    
native or :ite1 c]ta9 ,nepalese  &      
,*9am51 only1 hav+ ! privilege ( ent]+ !
 c\ntry4 ,x  0 a fight aga9/ ,we/]n ways
 9 g5]al :i* ! ,lamas 7  c>ry+ on1 q    
successfully ow+ to ! geographical      
position (  _! c\ntry1 & ! natural      
difficulties ( rea*+ x1 & n a  fight    
aga9/ "o race m ?an ano!r4 ,! acc\nts ( 
! ,lhassa  ,mission to ! ,cz> 7 possibly
 ! be/ diplomatic practical jokes  :i* h
 be5 play$ ^u ?is cr$ul\s c\ntry2 & !   

my?ical  & mu*-fe>$ ,dorjeff is         
possibly--at lea/ z f> z p[] is         
conc]n$--no?+ m ?an ! creation (        
hy/]ical ,anglo-,indian  (ficials :o1   
ev]ybody kn[s1 seem to see ! trea*]\s h&
 (  ,russia 9 ev]y?+4    ,p]haps no o!r 
c\ntry b ,engl& w\ld be s ra% z to g &  
s9k  millions ( p\nds /]l+ good money on
 a c\ntry t is1 = all  practical        
purposes1 absolutely useless & wor?less4
 ,?is does n  detract f its pictorial1  
nor f its geographical or e?nological   
int]e/2 f ^! po9ts x is mo/ int]e/+     
inde$4    ,agriculturally1 z ,i h /at$1 
no?+ gr[s !re2 no v weal?y  m9es h s f> 
be5 discov]$1 ! only m9es t are pl5tiful
  be+ ( borax1 :i* has n suffici5t m>ket
 value to pay = !  exp5sive c>riage f   
,tibet to ! coa/4 ,reg>d$ z a climate = 
a  sanatorium = our sick soldi]s 9      
,india--= :i* ,tibet is frequ5tly       
recomm5d$ by ,anglo-,indian pap]s--,i   
believe t su* an e/abli%m5t  w\ld be a v
 quick way ( dispos+ altoge!r ( all !   
sick m5  s5t !re4 ,& z = su* gigantic   

s*emes z ! con/ruction (  railways1 say 
f ,india to ! upp] wat]s ( !            
,yangtze-,kiang1 or  to ,pek91 ! exp5se 
( tak+ a railway ov] ! ,himahlya range &
  keep+ x 9 work+ ord] dur+ ! w9try     
mon?s--n9e out (  twelve--w\ld1 ,i ?9k1 
nev] be remun]ative4 ,9 ,tibet itself ! 
con/ruction ( a railway w\ld be         
comp>atively easy1 z great  /ret*es ( ! 
c\ntry are almo/ flat4 ,/ations (       
import$ fuel  w\ld h to be provid$ = !  
entire di/ance across ,tibet1 & !       
eng9es w\ld h to be con/ruct$ specially 
to suit ! great  altitude4    ,= trade &
 comm]ce ) ! natives !mselves1 !        
population (  ! c\ntry is s small1 s    
deplorably poor & s lack+ 9 wants1  & ! 
c\ntry is s l>ge t1 p]sonally1 ,i d n   
see h[ any  l>ge comm]cial v5ture 9 su* 
a c\ntry c turn out successful4 ,x  is v
 difficult to get money :]e !re is none4
 ,small native  trad]s1 ( c\rse1 c make 
small pr(its & be satisfi$4 ,besides1  !
 int]c\rse betwe5 ,tibet & ! neighb\r+  
c\ntries1  p>ticul>ly ^? to ! s\?1 c    

only take place ) com=t  dur+ ?ree mon?s
 ( ! summ] :5 ! high sn[-passes are op54
    ,s t1 mu* z ,i w\ld l to see ,tibet 
op5 9 a prop] way to  travell]s1 ,i _c q
 und]/& ! necessity ( ! ,gov]nm5t  sp5d+
 millions ( money & but*]+ ?\s&s (      
helpless &  def5celess natives 9 a mann]
 mo/ repulsive to any man :o is a man1  
& ( :i* we c b be a%am$--& all ?is to   
obta9 a valueless  comm]cial treaty4 ,x 
is true1 ! ,tibetans _h be5 v impud5t 9 
e way on our fronti]1 b = ?is we only h 
to blame ourselves  & our incompet5t    
(ficials4 ,if1 in/ead ( giv+ way to _!  
bluff1 we _h kept a firm h&1 matt]s w\ld
 h be5 diff]5t4    ,ev5 9 ! case ( my   
capture & torture on my fir/ exp$ition  
into  ,tibet ,i nev] _h a feel+ (       
res5tm5t t[>ds ! ,tibetans = :at  !y did
 to me4 ,x 0 v excit+ & int]e/+ = me to 
endeav\r to rea* _! sacr$ city1 b ,i did
 s at my own risk &  aga9/ _! repeat$   
w>n+s & ?reats1 & ,i got no?+ m =  x 9 !
 end ?an ,i expect$1 9 fact1 bad z x 01 
consid]ably  less4 ,highly amus+ z x 0  

to me to give !m endless tr\ble1 x  0   
und\bt$ly equally enjoyable to !m to    
torture me1 :5 once !y  succe$$ 9       
effect+ my capture4 ,possibly1 if ,i n[ 
h any feel+s  at all t[>ds ! ,tibetans1 
x is a feel+ ( gratitude t[>ds !m  =    
sp>+ my life 9 ! end1 :i*1 by ! way1 !y 
came )9 an  ace ( tak+ z !y _h promis$  
to d4    ,z a puni%m5t = :at !y did to  
me--because1 aft] all1 my m5 &  ,i      
suff]$ a great deal m ?an ! av]age man  
c\ld /&--!  ,gov]nm5t ( ,india          
practically c$$1 z we h said1 all !     
rights  to ,tibet ( an imm5se di/rict ( 
,briti% t]ritory at ! fronti]4  ,c y    
blame ! ,tibetans = do+ worse if !y _h a
 *ance8                  ,,*apt] ,,xiv  
,9 he>t & s\l ! ,tibetan is a sportsman2
 b if y look = grace  9 8 movem5ts y w  
be sorely disappo9t$4 ,inde$1 m f]v\r  &
 clums9ess comb9$ are h>dly to be       
p>allel$ any:]e4 ,p]haps  ! ,tibetan is 
se5 to advantage on 8 pony1 & "s ( 8    
feats on  ! saddle ,i w "h describe4    
,horse races are q a fav\rite =m (      

amusem5t1 & are run 9 a  s5sible mann]4 
,only two ponies at a "t g r\nd ! c\rse1
 !  f9al race be+ run betwe5 ! w9n]s ( !
 two be/ heats4 ,pray+  is usually      
comb9$1 9 "s =m or o!r1 ) ev]y?+ p d  9 
,tibet1 & s ev5 races are run r\nd !    
foot ( an isolat$ hill  or ar\nd an     
encampm5t ( t5ts2 =1 z y "k1            
circumambulation (  any k9d1 if 9 ! "r  
direction1 is equival5t to pray]1 &     
pleases ,god4 ,?us1 j z ) _!            
pray]-:eels1 a rotatory motion  is kept 
up f left to "r1 s races are run 9 !    
same way f  ! /&po9t ( ! spectator4     
,a ,tibetan race w\ld a/oni% an ,engli% 
cr[d--! means adopt$ by !  well-mat*$   
c\ples be+ v effective1 if some:at      
primitive4 ,su*  simple devices z seiz+ 
"o's oppon5t's re9s1 or la%+ him 9 !    
face to keep him back1 or pu%+ or pull+ 
him (f 8 saddle1 are  consid]$ fair &   
legal means 9 ord] to w9 ! race4 ,! la/ 
heat  is usually ! mo/ excit+1          
especially = ! spectators1 = bl[s  ) !  
la% are ex*ang$ 9 bewild]+ pr(usion by  

bo? rid]s  tak+ "p 9 x1 _! respective   
ponies %>+ unsp>+ly 9 !  puni%m5t4      
,occasionally ! race becomes a regul>   
hippic wre/l+  mat*1 :5 bo? rid]s1 cl++ 
tightly toge!r1 tumble ov] &  roll to ! 
gr\nd4 ,:5 ! ponies are recaptur$1 !    
bruis$  horsem5 rem\nt & cont9ue ! race 
z if no?+ _h happ5$4    ,! heavy %eepsk9
 coats worn by ! ,tibetans are "s       
protection :5  ! la% is appli$1 & ! pa9 
inflict$ is n always 9 proportion  to ! 
noise made by ! bl[2 b su* is n ! case  
:5 !y cat*  "o ano!r across ! face4     
,! w9n] is pres5t$ ) a kata by !        
umpire--a high ,lama or a  milit>y      
(fic]1 a mo/ picturesque creature 9 a   
brilliant r$ coat  & fluffy hat1 :o has 
a peculi> /&>d ) hundr$s ( long1        
v>i-col\r$ /rips ( clo?1 or fly+ pray]s4
 ,sitt+ on a h&some  pony1 ) gaudy      
h>ness ( gre5 lea!r inlaid ) brass1 a   
valuable  ,*9ese rug ^u ! saddle1 & _m  
t9kl+ bells r\nd ! pony's  neck1 !      
umpire & 8 pony c]ta9ly produce a gay   
ensemble4 ,?is  g5tleman takes himself v

 s]i\sly1 & seldom condesc5ds to  smile4
    ,! kata1 or 8sc>f ( love &          
fri5d%ip10 :i* is giv5 to !  w9n] is a  
long piece ( silk-l gauze1 ! ends ( :i* 
h be5  trimm$ into a fr+e4 ,z ,i h      
else:]e describ$ at great] l5g?1  ^!    
katas play q an important "p 9 ! social 
int]c\rse (  ,tibetans4 ,!y c be pur*as$
 or obta9$ f ! ,lamas ( any  mona/]y1 or
 :]e no mona/]y exi/s ! natives         
manufacture !m  !mselves1 = !y are      
con/antly ne$$4 ,no gift c be s5t nor   
accept$ )\t 8a veil ( fri5d%ip0         
accompany+ x1 & no  /rang] ev] ent]s a  
t5t )\t (f]+1 ) out/ret*$ h&s1  a kata1 
:i* he quickly lays at ! feet ( 8 ho/4  
,dim9utive katas  are enclos$ 9 lett]s2 
swee!>ts ex*ange katas on e possible    
occasion--until !y are actually m>ri$4  
,poly&ry be+ preval5t 9  ,tibet1 :5 "o (
 ! sev]al husb&s returns to 8 wife aft] 
!  cu/om>y abs5ce1 he nev] fails to br+ 
a kata ) him4 ,n to  (f] a kata to an   
hon\r$ visitor is z palpable a brea* (  
mann]s1  & z great a slight z c possibly

 be (f]$ 9 ! ,=bidd5 ,l&4               
,necess>ily1 :5 a kata has be5 bless$ by
 ! ,lamas1 or is won 9 a  race be=e high
 (ficials1 x has additional value1 & ^! 
simple  folks value x m ?an a gift (    
money or food4 ,x is /or$ away 9  ! t5t 
among ! heirlooms1 & is h&$ d[n to      
po/]ity4    ,a slightly m difficult     
feat1 v common 9 a simil> =m 9 mo/      
c\ntries1 is ! pick+ up ( a kata by     
horsem5 at full gallop4 ,"o  horseman1 a
 high (ficial1 revolves ! kata sev5     
times 9 ! w9d1  & !n d>ts full gallop 9 
"o direction1 foll[$ by tw5ty1  ?irty1  
or m horsem5 rid+ wildly1 & ea* try+ to 
pu% 8  neighb\rs out ( ! way4 ,!        
(ficial1 "s ?irty y>ds ahead1 flies  !  
kata 9 ! w9d1 & :5 fancy takes him lets 
x drop out ( 8  h&4 ,! kata ev5tually   
settles on ! gr\nd1 & ! horde (  rid]s  
gallops away f x1 yell+ & qu>rell+4 ,at 
a signal f  ! (fic] ! horsem5 turn r\nd 
& make a da% = ! sc>f1  t[>ds :i* all ! 
ponies are conv]g+4 ,cl++ to ! saddle  )
 "o h& & hang+ ov]1 ea* rid] attempts to

 pick up ! kata  )\t dism\nt+4          
,collisions & na/y falls are num]\s1 &  
?is  sport g5]ally p>takes ( ! "* ( an  
all-r\nd fight among  ! ponies' legs4   
,somebody1 h[ev]1 always succe$s 9 pick+
 up !  sc>f & gett+ cle> ( ! o!rs1 :5 he
 triumphantly rides r\nd  ! camp flutt]+
 ! prize 9 ! w9d4    ,"s ( ! y\ng]      
fell[s are clev] at ?is sport1 & :5 "o  
rid] at a "t does ! feat1 he seldom     
misses pick+ up ! kata at  ! fir/ swoop4
    ,an int]e/+ & m difficult feat (    
horseman%ip ,i witness$ 9  ,tibet 0 !   
load+ & fir+ ( a mat*lock :ile at full  
gallop--a  p]=mance :i* requires a firm]
 seat on ! saddle ?an appe>s4  ,! heavy 
& cumb]some weapons _h to be unslung f !
 %\ld]s1  ! props let d[n1 ! fuse light$
 by fl9t & /eel1 "s gunp[d]  plac$ &    
kept 9 ! small side receptacle1 & la/1 b
 n lea/1  ! %ot fir$ (f--t is to say1 :5
 x w\ld g (f6 ,! full use  ( bo? h&s 0  
requir$ 9 ?is ex]cise1 & !re=e ! horsem5
  held ! re9s ) _! tee?4 ,:5 fir+ !y lay
 almo/ flat on  ! ponies' backs 9 ord]  

to prev5t be+ ?r[n by ! sudd5  buck+ ( !
 fright5$ ponies4    ,ano!r ex]cise     
consi/s 9 bodily lift+ a p]son on !     
saddle  :ile ! pony is at full gallop4  
,! p$e/rian is seiz$ z l[ ne>  ! wai/ z 
possible1 & ! impetus ( ! pony's flight1
 n !  rid]'s actual /r5g?1 is utilis$ 9 
rais+ ! p]son on !  saddle4    ,! wom5  
seem$ p>ticul>ly int]e/$ 9 ?is sport1   
because a  practical application ( ?is  
ex]cise is us$ by ent]pris+ lads (      
,tibet to ov]come ! scruples ( reluctant
 maids :o d n  reciprocate _! love4 ,at 
a suitable opportunity ! doom$ "y lady  
is abduct$ bodily 9 t fa%ion1 & convey$ 
9 all ha/e to !  suitor's t5t1 ) !      
hon\rable int5tion1 ( c\rse1 ( mak+ h]  
8 happy bride4    ,wom5 are sc>ce 9     
,tibet1 & actual raid+ p>ties1 ,i 0     
told1  occasionally take place aga9/    
neighb\r+ tribes 9 ord] to obta9  a fre%
 supply ( wives4    ,tak+ ?+s all r\nd1 
!re are few m5 & wom5 9 ,tibet :o  _c   
ride well1 yet !re are few :o c claim   
exceptional skill 9  t l9e4 ,! ,tibetan 

g5]ally values 8 bones too mu* to       
indulge  9 fancy tricks ^u 8 pony4 ,"s  
"y fell[1 m ambiti\s ?an  o!rs1 w ma/] !
 art ( /&+ erect ^u ! saddle :ile  go+  
full spe$1 8 feet be+ ins]t$ into !     
/irrups1 :i* h  = ! purpose be5 %ort5$ z
 high z !y c\ld g4 ,by press+  ) 8      
ankles aga9/ ! saddle he manages to     
ma9ta9 8 balance1  9 ! famili> way ( !  
,cossacks & tribes ( ,c5tral ,asia1 :o  
all  excel 9 ?is game4    ,tibetan      
saddles1 z y "k1 are 9 appe>ance n      
unlike a cross  betwe5 a ,cossack saddle
 & a rude ,mexican saddle1 & z good z   
nei!r1 b q suit$ to ! c\ntry :]e !y are 
us$4 ,m5 &  wom5 ride a/ride1 )         
exceptionally %ort /irrups1 s t ! leg   
is b5t at ! knee at a "r or ev5 an acute
 angle4 ,9 ord] to  ma9ta9 "o's         
equilibrium :5 rid+ fa/ "s additional   
/ability  is obta9$ by /ret*+ out ! arms
 sideways4    ,tak+ all ?+s into        
consid]ation1 !re is no d\bt t 9 a      
rugg$1 m\nta9\s c\ntry l ,tibet1 & = a  
,tibetan1 8 is !  mo/ practical & useful

 type ( saddle1 & 8 fa%ion ( rid+ !  mo/
 s5sible--evid5tly ! outcome ( practical
 exp]i5ce4 ,:5  rid+ 9 c>avans1 driv+   
h]ds ( lad5 yaks or ponies1 !           
advantages ( legs d\bl$ up high ^u !    
saddle are soon app>5t1  avoid+ ! dang] 
( cru%+ "o's l[] limbs or hav+ !m p>tly 
torn (f4 ,9 ! ,engli% way ( rid+1 :5    
among ob/acles1 "o's  legs are always 9 
! way2 9 ! ,tibetan fa%ion !y are always
 out  ( ! way1 or1 at any rate1 c easily
 & quickly be mov$ ov] f  "o side to !  
o!r ( ! saddle4 ,also1 :5 tir$ ( rid+ 9 
"o  position1 alt]+ "o's position to    
side-saddle is q conv5i5t  & easy4    ,!
 blocks ( ! saddles are ( wood import$  
ma9ly f ,india1  ,nepal1 or ,*9a1 )     
b9d+s ( hamm]$ iron or brass1 (t5 inlaid
  ) silv] & gold4 ,liz>d sk9 & col\r$   
lea!r adorn ! front  & back ( ! saddles1
 & a sub/antial pad cov]s ! c5tral "p  &
 ! o!rwise v angul> seat4 ,= extra com=t
  rugs--occasionally valuable & always  
decorative 9 blue & r$  t9ts--are       
spread1 :ile to lea!r laces beh9d !     

saddle are slung  d\ble bags conta9+    
tsamba1 *ura1 or *eese1 a brick (       
compress$  tea1 & :atev] sundry articles
 may be us$ on a j\rney4 ,! la/1  b n   
lea/ atta*m5t on a ,tibetan saddle is a 
long coil$ rope (  yak hair ) a wood5   
peg at ! end = te!r+ ! pony at night4   
,:atev] "o may say ( ,tibetans1 !       
be/-incl9$ c\ld n  complim5t !m on _!   
%oot+4 ,_! mat*locks--_! only  fire>ms1 
made 9 ,lhassa & ,%igatz--are weapons s 
clumsy & heavy  & badly made1 t :5 fir$ 
x is truly m dang]\s to be beh9d  !m ?an
 9 front ( _! muzzle4 ,dur+ my captivity
 9 ,tibet 9  #ahig1 inde$1 ,i 0 fir$ ^u 
twice--by di/+ui%$ m>ksm5 :o took       
accurate aim only a few paces f me--b   
nei!r "t 0 ,i hit4 ,nor  9 all my       
exp]i5ce ( ,tibet h ,i any remembrance (
 ev] see+ a  ,tibetan hit ) a projectile
 f 8 mat*lock any?+ :i* he  int5d$1     
al?\gh ! range 0 nev] m ?an tw5ty or    
?irty  y>ds4 ,few are ! mat*locks 9 !   
,=bidd5 ,l& :i* w c>ry z  f> z fifty or 
a hundr$ y>ds4    ,!y possess a long    

b>rel1 n always p]fectly /raight nor    
cyl9drical2 !y are smoo?-bore1 !        
explosion be+ caus$ by a  primitive fuse
 atta*m5t :i*1 :5 light$ by means ( a   
fl9t &  /eel1 applies ! fire to a small 
cup ( gunp[d] at ! side ( !  b>rel4 ,!y 
h a peep-hole sight1 b ?is is absolutely
 devoid (  ma!matical accuracy1 & !     
bullets & gunp[d] us$ by !  ,tibetans   
are home-made & ( inf]ior quality4      
,pebbles1 or small  pieces ( iron1 are  
frequ5tly us$ = ammunition4 ,a movable  
prop is  necess>y 9 ord] to enable !    
long weapon to be held 9 a horizontal   
position1 & ?is %\ld 9 a way facilitate 
accurate %oot+4 ,ap>t  f ! v>i\s faults 
( ! mat*locks !mselves1 an additional   
difficulty arises 9 ,tibet ev5 :5 fir+ )
 m p]fect$  weapons4 ,%oot+ at great    
altitudes1 x may be po9t$ out1 involves 
special sight+ ( "o's rifle2 ! v>iation 
9 ! trajectory ( a  projectile be+      
consid]able1 at #ae1jjj or #af1jjj feet 
above  sea-level1 ow+ *iefly to ! r>efi$
 air4 ,! cle>ness ( !  atmosph]e also   

prev5ts ! correct e/imate ( range4 ,=   
in/ance1  ) my #bef ,mannli*] rifle1 ) !
 usual sight at #ajj y>ds1 x  0 necess>y
 at t altitude to aim ab\t a foot l[]   
?an !  t>get 9 ord] to make a bull's    
eye4    ,:5 p get to high elevations = !
 fir/ "t1 & until !y  h ! cause expla9$ 
to !m1 or le>n x = !mselves1 ?is is a   
con/ant puzzle1 & frequ5tly leads to !  
condemnation ( a good  weapon4    ,x mu/
 be said = ! ,tibetan t 8 eye is g5]ally
 fairly  accurate & 8 h& /eady1 & ) b[s 
& arr[s ,i h se5 "s  ar*]s make q       
cr$itable p]=mances4 ,^! are1 h[ev]1 n[ 
look$ ^u z obsolete weapons by !        
natives4 ,! soldi]s z well z  civilians 
are arm$ ) mat*locks4    ,m5 & wom5 9   
,tibet are extremely skilful 9 ! use ( a
 rope  sl+1 :i* !y always c>ry ab\t _!  
p]son1 & ) :i* !y  c fl+ /ones long     
di/ances ) great precision4 ,x is n     
uncommon1 z ,i h said1 to see !m /rike 9
 ?is mann] a pick$  recalcitrant %eep 9 
a l>ge flock1 or a di/ant yak :i* !y    
want  to drive to camp4 ,ev5 *ildr51    

?r\gh con/ant practice1 are adepts  at  
/one-?r[+4    ,all ov] ,asia1 z we h    
se51 is f\nd ! anci5t cu/om (           
8/one-fight+10 ei!r z a sport or to     
settle disputes betwe5  factions2 &     
al?\gh 9 ,tibet ^! combats d n assume   
su*  gigantic proportions z 9 ,corea1 = 
in/ance1 :]e ?\s&s (  combatants are    
engag$ 9 fi]ce fights1 /ill 9 ! ,=bidd5 
,l&1  too1 !re is pl5ty ( scope = brok5 
skulls & bruises4 ,!  battles are       
g5]ally f\ght betwe5 ! male memb]s ( two
 or m  rival families1 & seldom betwe5  
l>ge factions or guilds1 except 9  big  
t[ns su* z ,lhassa or ,%igatz1 :]e ^!   
/one fights  occasionally assume al>m+  
proportions4 ,!y are und\bt$ly a spe$y  
& practical me?od ( settl+ controv]sies 
among rival families1  besides af=d+ "s 
consid]able amusem5t & excitem5t to !   
ga!r$ cr[d ( spectators wat*+ ! progress
 ( ! combat well  out ( range ( !       
missiles4    ,/one-?r[+ 9 a diff]5t =m1 
z a sport1 is indulg$ 9 on  fe/ive      
occasions by "y m54 ,"s l>ge rocks1 m or

 less  sph]ical1 & "s #cj to #ej lbs4 9 
weight1 be+ collect$1 & !  p>ticipants 9
 ! game hav+ dive/$ !mselves ( _! heavy 
coats1 :i* are left hang+ f _! wai/b&s1 
! rocks are  lift$ & swung ov] ! head & 
flung "s consid]able di/ance1  (t5 t5 or
 twelve y>ds1 ei!r into an appropriate  
hole or ne> a  m>k-/one4 ,?is ex]cise   
g5]ally takes place ne> a mani wall1 su*
  z is repres5t$ 9 ! illu/ration 9 ?is  
book4 ,ano!r =m ( !  same game consi/s 9
 kick+ to or ne> a p>ticul> spot a small
  /one ) ! in/ep ( "o's foot1 sw++ "o's 
/iff5$ leg z if  x 7 a golf-club4       
,wre/l+ is "o ( ! few o!r sports        
noticeable 9 ,tibet4 ,x is1  h[ev]1 n   
commonly indulg$ 91 & is done accord+ to
 no rules4  ,x is1 9 fact1 9 ! 8cat* z  
cat* c0 /yle1 ) additional  bit+ &      
vici\s kick+ until ! victor c firmly    
hold !  helpless vanqui%$ flat "u him4  
,! amusem5t :i* always causes mu* mir?  
among ,tibetans is  toboggan+4 ,!y d n  
always indulge 9 x z a sport2 b :5      
opportunity (f]s1 = in/ance1 to save    

!mselves ! tr\ble (  long & /eep desc5ts
 on sn[y m\nta9 slopes1 !y greatly enjoy
  ! fun4 ,i h se5 ,tibetans slide on _! 
backs at a t]rific pace  = a hundr$ or  
two hundr$ y>ds d[n precipit\s incl9es1 
laugh+  & yell+1 ) _! heavy %eepsk9     
coats collect$ 9 front1 &  _! legs up 9 
! air except :5 requir$ = /e]+ purposes4
    ,) ! exception ( ! above1 ,i d n    
recollect see+ any o!r  national sport2 
nor1 z a matt] ( fact1 d ,tibetans      
indulge mu* 9  sports ( any k9d--p>tly  
ow+ to ! great altitudes :i* !y         
inhabit1 :]e viol5t ex]cise leads to    
consid]able p]sonal  discom=t & suff]+2 
p>tly because ( a some:at depress$      
nature4 ,al?\gh n always devoid (       
consid]able hum\r1 ! ,tibetan  c seldom 
be r\s$ f 8 normal sulk9ess & made to   
put =?  sup]flu\s ex]tion ei!r = 8 own  
delectation or t ( o!rs4    ,also1 !    
nomadic exi/5ce :i* he leads f "o end ( 
! ye> to  ! o!r1 is full ( ev] pres5t   
wild excitem5ts & surprises4 ,he  (t5   
travels ov] sn[y passes sev]al ?\s& feet

 high] ?an !  highe/ m\nta9s ( ,europe1 
:]e precipices & avalan*es &  l&-slides 
or fall+ rocks are ( daily occurr5ce1 & 
any devis$  sport becomes 9 comp>ison r 
tame & un9t]e/+4    ,naturally1 !re is  
no su* ?+ 9 ,tibet z tra9+ to be an     
a?lete1 nor are ! few sports & games    
specially taught to !  *ildr54 ,!y are  
m]ely pick$ up f "o g5]ation to ! o!r by
  imitation4 ,! ,tibetan is extremely   
h>dy & wiry4    ,amusem5ts :i* are !    
result ( prosp]ity & happ9ess are n     
pl5tiful 9 ,tibet4 ,play+ c>ds & dice & 
a primitive sort (  *ess1 & "o or two m 
elaborate games import$ f ,*9a &        
,nepal1 are occasionally to be se52 b   
p]haps ! mo/ int]e/+ to  u is _! danc+1 
notably _! w>-dances1 curi\s 9 p s      
little m>tial4 ,) a sword 9 "o h& & a   
kata 9 ! o!r1 &  ) ! knees b5t1 ! danc]s
 keep "t to ! beat+ ( a d\ble  drum & ! 
clapp+ ( h&s f ! spectators4 ,!y attempt
 "s  m or less clumsy revolutions on _! 
heels1 b ! movem5ts (  _! arms are q    
graceful4 ,alt]nately ea* b5t arm is    

rais$ 9  front ( ! head1 :ile ! o!r is  
held f> back1 & !y manage to  give a    
pretty semi-rot>y twi/ to bo? =e>ms &   
h&s :5 !y  h rea*$ ! highe/ & l[e/ po9ts
 respectively4    ,z ! danc]s &         
musicians get excit$ ! movem5ts ( ! arms
 &  legs are greatly accel]at$1 & "s ( !
 be/ danc]s c move  _! limbs s quickly t
 on look+ at !m "o's eyes get confus$   
to su* an ext5t t only a %apeless mov+  
mass is di/+ui%able4  ,ow+ to ! r>efi$  
air1 !y _c1 h[ev]1 keep ?is up v  long1 
&1 pant+1 _! lungs 9 convulsion & eyes  
bulg+ out (  _! sockets1 !y abruptly end
 ! dance ) a sugge/ive &  humor\s--(t5  
too humor\s--po/ure1 or else ) a leap 9 
! air1  d\bl+ up ! body & re/+ ! head ^u
 ! knees be=e !  feet t\* ! gr\nd aga94 
,! mo/ appreciat$ danc+1 f a ,tibetan   
po9t ( view1 is :5 !  p]=m] c cont9ue 8 
evolutions1 br++ 8 legs =w>d  alt]nately
 ) knees b5t l[ & almo/ t\*+ ! gr\nd4 ,9
 a  way1 ?is dance is n unlike ,russian 
peasant danc+4 ,! be/ danc]s  give solo 
p]=mances1 :ile ! re/ jo9 9 a circle    

r\nd & r\nd  !m until !y get tir$ out & 
dizzy4    ,! wom5's danc+ has precisely 
! same *>act]i/ics1 except t  x is done 
) no sword4 ,only a kata is held 9 ! "r 
h&1 &  ! contortions are less exagg]at$1
 &1 !re=e1 m graceful4  ,! abrupt end   
also is done away )1 toge!r ) odd       
po/ur+4 ,!  wom51 :5ev] ,i saw !m dance1
 usually danc$ s+ly to !  accompanim5t (
 s(t] & m s5tim5tal music ?an 0 ! case  
) ! m54 ,!y add$ sad1 melodi\s *ant+ to 
_! movem5ts1  weird & wild to a degree1 
yet full ( expression & q pleas+  to !  
e>4                  ,,*apt] ,,xv       
,! ,tibetan 9 8 normal life is          
occasionally an amus+ be+1 full  ( co>se
 hum\r1 & ) a b\nce :i* c>ries him ?r\gh
 8  exi/5ce4 ,:5 alone1 he is quiet 9 8 
mann]1 & w sp5d 8  leisure h\rs sp9n+   
wool or 9 "s o!r su* fem99e occupation1 
:ile 8 wom5-folk d all ! h>d "w ab\t !  
t5t4 ,z w be  se5 by ! illu/rations 9   
?is book1 bo? ,tibetan m5 & wom5 look   
clumsy & heavy4 ,anatomically1 !y are   
well-built1 small b wiry1  & r ?ickly   

set1 b v seldom ) any great abundance ( 
fle% & fat1 except ! ,lamas1 :o lead a  
lascivi\s & lazy life4    ,tibetan clo?+
 is mo/ly responsible = ! funny         
appe>ance !y  pres5t1 m5 we>+ sometimes 
?ree or f\r coats1 sk9 or wooll51  "o on
 ! top ( ! o!r4 ,! sa% or belt1 :i* is  
int5d$ to be  at ! wai/1 is usually     
consid]ably l[] d[n ow+ to ! weight (  !
 v>iety ( articles ! we>] con/antly     
c>ries /or$ away r\nd  ! wai/ 9 8 out]  
coat1--wood5 b[ls1 balls ( butt]1 bags (
  tsamba1 a bundle ( wool = sp9n+ ) !   
di/aff1 !  pray]-:eel1 & a quantity (   
rags1--:i* bulge out at ! wai/ all  r\nd
 8 body & drag d[n 8 coat4 ,?is (t5     
gives !m !  appe>ance ( be+ q           
%ort-legg$1 ?\gh1 ( c\rse1 !y are n     
really4    ,m5 & wom5 we> picturesque1  
mo/ com=table & practical long  boots1 !
 legg+ be+ usually r$ or :ite1 ! ?ick   
soles ( rope  well protect+ ! foot all  
r\nd4 ,^! boots are l>gely  manufactur$ 
9 ,lhassa & ,%igatz1 b p also           
manufacture !m  !mselves4 ,(ficials we> 

lea!r boots ( ! ,*9ese type1 )  ?ick    
wood5 or lea!r soles ) a few huge iron  
nails und]nea? &  a curl$-up toe4       
,among ! col\r$ illu/rations w be f\nd  
pa9t+s ( ,tibetan  wom5--f babyhood1 9  
an ample & /rik+ robe ( :ite & blue     
*ecks2 at ! age ( twelve1 ) %aggy hair  
hang+ d[n ! back  & %\ld]s & a suffici5t
 collection ( ornam5ts r\nd ! neck2  an 
old] dame1 ( middle class & age1 9 h]   
ev]yday co/ume1 ) a  sa% envelop+ ne>ly 
"o-?ird ( h] body2 !n a lady ( rank &   
beauty1 fully decorat$ ) amb] necklace1 
gold & mala*ite broo*1  elaborate e>r+s1
 & a mu*-adorn$ aureole ^u ! head4 ,%e  
sits  mode/ly on bags ( borax1 &        
displays feet ( "s consid]able size4    
,well1 t is ! fault ( ! ample & padd$   
boots :i* %e we>s1  & n a fault ( ! foot
 inside--n small1 m9d y1 b g5]ally      
well-=m$--nor ( ! pa9t] :o depict$ !    
sc5e4    ,next we h a religi\s lady     
pray+ be=e a t5t %r9e1 turn+ h]  back to
 u & display+ 9 its full glory h]       
,t*ukti--t is to say1  ?ree broad b&s ( 

?ree sections ea* alt]nately blue & r$4 
,^! b&s ( heavy clo? rea* f ! %\ld] to !
 feet1 &  !y are ornam5t$ ) coral or    
mala*ite beads1 silv] co9s &  bells1 &  
at ! l[] end a r[ ( little brass or     
silv] bells is  g5]ally atta*$4 ,ne>ly  
all ! money e>n$ by ! woman 7&          
frequ5tly t ( ! husb&7 is sewn on to !  
,t*ukti1 s t !  family =tune--:5 ?is    
=tune exi/s--hangs d[n wom5's backs to a
  numb] ( neat little tresses ( !       
woman's hair to :i* x is  atta*$4 ,:5 ! 
,t*ukti is worn ! hair is p>t$ 9 !      
middle &  pla/]$ d[n ) melt$ butt]4     
,la/1 b n lea/1 y w f9d ! portrait ( a  
,tibetan old lady1  :o some:at res5t$   
be+ sket*$ & _h n h] sweete/ smile  ^u  
h] face4 ,r bony & too?less1 ) a wr9kl$ 
sk9 :i*  w\ld put to %ame a crocodile1  
"o leg /ret*$ out because %e _h a       
rheumatic pa9 & c\ld n b5d x1 %e us$ q  
bad language :5  ,i quickly portray$ h]4
 ,%e pr$ict$ & wi%$ mis=tunes ( all     
k9ds :i* %\ld desc5d ^u me4    ,p]haps y
 w notice1 9 mo/ ( ! illu/rations       

repres5t+  ,tibetans1 t ! p depict$ 9 !m
 h _! eyes half-clos$4  ,?is is "o ( !  
mo/ *>act]i/ic po9ts ab\t a ,tibetan    
face1  especially :5 out ( doors &      
conv]s+4 ,fir/ ( all1 z y "k1  !        
,mongolian eye is elongat$ betwe5 heavy 
lids1 & does n af=d  an ext5sive view ( 
! iris at any "t2 !n1 ow+ to ! int5sely 
brilliant light1 ! sev]e & con/ant w9ds1
 & pl5tiful sn[1 !  natives get into !  
habit ( acc5tuat+ ! squeez+ ( !         
eye-ap]ture = protection4 ,?is causes   
cr['s-feet to appe> on m5  & wom5 at an 
e>ly age1 & a mu* corrugat$ =ehead &    
br[4    ,i _h occasion on ?is j\rney to 
pay a visit to a qua9t tribe (          
,tibetans call+ !mselves ! ,kam-p>1 or p
 f ,kam 7,tibet74  ,!y possess$         
extraord9>y features--f int]m>riage ) "s
  tribe ( ,nepal1 ,i %\ld ?9k--int5sely 
cruel faces 9 _m in/ances2  o!rs q      
ref9$1 especially ^? ( ! bett] class4 ,!
 "y  man ^: portrait ,i give1 v         
girli%-look+1 ) an elaborate hat        
ornam5t$ ) gold embroid]y1 0 ! son ( !  

*ief1 & q a  nice-look+ boy1 ) suave    
mann]s & a humble voice4 ,he _h long    
hair 9 waves ^u 8 %\ld]s1 & a %ort      
pigtail beh9d4 ,b "s  ( ! old] m51 su* z
 ! "o ,i portray$1 _h brutal faces1 &   
_! mann] 0 some:at co>se1 sulky1 &      
blunt4 ,!y possess$  highly develop$    
*eek-bones1 slits ( eyes1 & prom95t     
droop+  lips4 ,! nose1 h[ev]1 0 m       
develop$ ?an on o!r ,tibetans4    ,^! p1
 l mo/ o!r ,tibetans1 practise a =m (   
cannibalism  :i* is n at all uncommon 9 
,tibet1 especially 9 _! fun]al          
c]emonies4 ,! ,lamas1 z is well kn[n1   
(t5 dr9k human blood out (  b[ls made ( 
human skulls4    ,?is tribe1 a nomad "o1
 01 among o!r employm5ts1 giv5 to a     
c]ta9 am\nt ( brig&age2 &1 9 fact1 among
 !m ,i f\nd a  well-kn[n brig&--a       
long-lo/ fri5d ( m9e--^: portrait ,i    
also  give 9 ^! pages4 ,he possess$ q a 
/rik+-look+ head1 ) a  good deal (      
det]m9ation ^u 8 features1 a fi]ce      
m\/a*e1 &  masses ( curly hair trimm$   
/raight at ! height ( ! %\ld]s4  ,he    

always %\t$ at ! top ( 8 voice :5ev] he 
spoke2 always  he>tily laugh$ at ev]y?+ 
y said2 &1 to %[ 8 approval1  /ruck y ^u
 y\r %\ld] ) 8 pond]\s h& aft] ea*      
s5t5ce4 ,he 0 "o ( ! mo/ p[]fully built 
m5 ,i h ev] met1  8 /r5g? be+ q         
extraord9>y2 &1 = a brig&1 q an         
agreeable companion out ( bus9ess h\rs4 
,poly&ry1 :5 ! wife is %>$ among bro!rs1
 z is ! case all  ov] ,tibet1 is        
practis$ by ?is tribe also2 & :5 ,i met 
!m !y  7 employ$ 9 convey+ salt & borax1
 f ,gyanema ov] ! ,d>ma  ,pass into     
,india4 ,^! ,kam-p> occasionally travel 
z f> d[n z  ,tanakpore1 ! borax & salt  
be+ c>ri$ entirely on %eep-back4    ,:5 
"o got ov] ! peculi> expression ( _!    
faces1 ! ,kam-p>  7 amiable en\gh4      
,_! wom5 7 highly decorat$ ) num]\s     
brass ornam5ts )  p5dants1 & silv]      
bracelets inlaid ) mala*ite4 ,tee? (    
musk-de] 7 freely us$ z ornam5ts1 z well
 z be+ us$ = su*  useful purposes z     
pick+ "o's tee?1 clean+ ! nails1 & s on4
    ,! *ief wore 8 hair p>t$ 9 ! c5tre1 

& plait$ into small  tresses :i* jo9$   
into a s+le pigtail beh9d4 ,! sk9 0 ( a 
sall[ yell[i% col\r4 ,! upp] portion ( !
 eye1 z is (t5 !  case 9 p :o are       
con/antly expos$ to a brilliant light1 0
  mu* discol\r$1 & a peculi> :iti% t+e  
veil$ ! entire iris  ( ! eye4 ,9 ! way (
 clo?+ !y %[$ a m>k$ pref]5ce =  bright 
r$ & yell[ textiles1 & on _! visits into
 ,kumaon !y  _h inve/$ _! sav+s 9 buy+  
old regim5tal brass buttons1 )  :i* !   
wom5 7 freely ornam5t$4 ,bracelets (    
glass beads1 &  also necklaces ( coral &
 amb]1 7 display$ ) pride4    ,^! p _h  
beautiful t5ts1 ! inside be+ mo/        
com=table1  ) ,*9ese c>pets spread on ! 
floor1 cu%ions to re/ ! head &  back ^u1
 & cur$ sk9s spread ev]y:]e :]e !y might
 come 9  useful4 ,elaborate alt>s1 "s   
d\ble-ti]$1 ) z _m z sev5  images (     
,buddha1 7 to be se51 & ^u !m burn+     
lights galore1  inc5se-/icks alight     
fill+ ! t5t ) sa9tly fumes4 ,bags (     
butt] & *ura & sweet pa/e hung f e      
t5t-pole4 ,all r\nd  ! t5t1 inside &    

also outside1 7 high walls ( d\ble sacks
 (  borax4 ,outside1 on high po/s1 ) an 
+5i\s contrivance to prev5t  animals go+
 up1 a lot ( meat 0 prep>$1 ) salt1 9 ?9
  slices1 & expos$ to ! sun to dry4     
,z is always ! case1 ) ?is tribe too    
travell$ a numb] ( ,lamas1  :o          
practically controll$ ev]y?+4 ,"o ( ^!  
,lamas _h z  repulsive & murd]\s a face 
z x is giv5 to any human be+ to         
possess4 ,true en\gh1 8 fir/ boa/ 0 t he
 _h kill$ ?ree  p 7! natives said a good
 _m m74 ,8 mann] t[>ds !  p 0 mo/       
brutal4 ,he 0 a tall man ( m>vell\s     
muscul>  developm5t1 & betwe5 8 mo/     
repulsive lips1 :i* nev] seem$ to       
close1 he display$ a set ( mo/ p[]ful   
long po9t$ tee?1 su* z  ^? "o w\ld see 9
 a wild animal4 ,8 head-ge> consi/$ ( a 
vizor made ( long1 bri/ly hair--n unlike
 ! half ( a  *imney-sweep]'s bru%--:i*  
he fa/5$ r\nd ! =ehead & back  ( ! head 
) a /r+4    ,?is g5tleman 0 incl9$ to be
 ov]be>+1 ev5 intrusive2 &1 to  %[ 8    
c\rage z well z muscul> p[] 7possibly to

 fright5 me71  he ?ump$ & knock$ ab\t 8 
p 9 a m]ciless mann]1 always  tak+ c>e  
to select ! helpless & weak] ones4 ,8   
brutality  irritat$ me consid]ably4 ,i 0
 /&+ ne> 8 t5t1 & he came 9  ) a long   
knife--he _h be5 mak+ himself a /ick to 
beat ! p  )4 ,he 0 /ill foam+ ) rage4   
,!re 0 a woman1 8 s]vant1  sitt+ ne> !  
fire1 & he ask$ h] :e!r ! tea 0 ready 9 
! raksang4 ,%e repli$ x 0 n1 ^u :i* he  
adm9i/]$ a  t]rific kick 9 h] /oma* :i* 
w\ld h kill$ any woman b a  ,tibetan4 ,i
 c\ld /& no m4 ,i seiz$ my rifle by !   
muzzle &  appli$ ! butt ^u 8 face 9 a   
fa%ion :i* some:at flatt5$  8 nose m ?an
 x orig9ally 0 & loos5$ "s tee?4 ,all   
bullies are c[>ds 9 any c\ntry1 & he    
made no reply :atev]4    ,no d\bt ,i    
%all be blam$--z ,i h be5 be=e--=       
adm9i/]+ my  own ju/ice 9 o!r p's       
c\ntries1 b ,i _c help feel+ t  ! weak  
%\ld ev] & at any co/ be protect$ aga9/ 
unw>rant$  attacks ( ! brutally /rong4  
,ano!r simil>1 b m comical1 incid5t--"o 
( _m--occurr$  ano!r day1 :5 a %apeless 

figure1 almo/ b5t ov] 9 two &  walk+    
un/eadily ^u 8 feet1 approa*$ my camp4  
,we 7 9 a  b>r51 desolate spot1 cold &  
dre>y1 & my m5 _h put up *okd5s  ( /ones
 all r\nd ! camp4    ,! que] /rang] _h a
 mo/ comical appe>ance1 8 wai/ d[n to 8 
knees1 s full 0 8 coat ) /ores ( all    
k9ds4 ,he b[$  pr(usely1 8 %aggy hair   
fly+--z mu* z x c\ld fly1 = x 0  s dirty
 & entangl$--9 ! breeze4    8,:o are y &
 :at d y want80 we ask$ him4    8,i am a
 poor1 poor man1 ) no food & no fri5ds40
    ,i well knew ?is to be a lie1 z ,i  
_h _h simil> visitors be=e4 ,he  0 a m]e
 ,tibetan spy--a soldi] 9 ! disguise ( a
 begg>1 to come  & f9d out all ab\t u4  
8,:at d y want80    8,i am hungry & h   
pa9s 9 my inside = lack ( food40    ,i  
ord]$ my cook to give him pl5tiful meat 
& rice & "s sweet  pa/e4 ,a little ( x  
he ate2 ! re/ he /or$ away 9 8 coat1    
wrapp$ up 9 dirty rags4    8,is !re     
any?+ else y want80    8,yes1 ,i w\ld l 
"s t*ah 7tea740    ,a jug ( tea 0 h&$   
him4    8,any?+ else y wi% f u n[80 we  

inquir$ ( ! ,tibetan1 :o1  :ile pret5d+ 
to sip ! tea1 0 c\nt+ ! numb] ( my m51 0
  try+ to see h[ _m rifles we _h1 & 0   
tak+ 9 ev]y?+ all  r\nd ) 8 f]ret+ eyes4
 ,b al?\gh he 0 a spl5did actor1  8     
infirmities1 ,i _h detect$ at once1 7   
all put on = !  occasion4    8,c ,i be  
all[$ to pr[l ar\nd y\r camp & see :at  
,i c pick  up--any?+ y h ?r[n away80    
8,yes1 c]ta9ly2 b m9d y d n pick m ?an y
 expect40    ,! man crawl$ ab\t camp--,i
 ord]$ my m5 to pret5d n to notice      
him--:ile ,i obs]v$ him closely1 all !  
"t pret5d+ to be busy  writ+4 ,by means 
( a small look+-glass ,i c\ld wat* 8    
movem5ts  ev5 :5 he 0 beh9d me4 ,! fell[
 0 exam9+ all my baggage  c>efully1 &   
especially our rifles :i* lay ab\t4     
,hav+ p]suad$  himself t none ( u 7     
look+ at him1 he rais$ ! flap ( my  t5t 
& _h a good look inside4 ,:5 he _h f9i%$
 8 inspection he  came to bid me        
good-bye4    8,h y _h all y want1 d y   
?9k80 ,i ask$ him4    8,yes1 inde$4 ,he 
0 grateful4 ,he n[ want$ to g40         

8,be=e y g1 ,i want to give y a         
remembrance to tea* y t :5  y accept p's
 hospitality y %\ld n practise trea*]y40
    ,snat*+ out ( 8 h& a long /ick he   
c>ri$1 ,i appli$ to him a  good beat+--n
 t x hurt him mu*1 because he 0 s padd$ 
)  articles he _h /or$ 9 8 coat4 ,9     
fact1 9 try+ to /ruggle  away1 8 sa% got
 undone & he dropp$ a numb] ( little    
bags  conta9+ tsamba & butt]1 provisions
 :i* 7 evid5tly int5d$  to la/ him      
sev]al days on 8 spy+ exp$ition4 ,also  
two dagg]s4    ,my m51 :o ent]$ fully   
into ! _s ( ! joke1 *as$ him out  ( camp
 ) a well-direct$ %[] ( /ones4 ,ne$less 
to say1 8!  />v+ ,tibetan cripple0      
outran !m all4 ,f a high po9t ( vantage 
,i wat*$ him ) my telescope4 ,:5 "s     
di/ance (f he w5t among  "s rocks1 pick$
 up 8 mat*lock :i* he _h hidd5 !re--&   
cont9u$ 8 flight4                       
,,*apt] ,,xvi      ,z y "k1 ! ,tibetans 
:5 salut+ put out ! tongue to its full  
ext5t4 ,if !y are we>+ a cap x is remov$
 & plac$ ^u !  gr\nd 9 sign ( respect1  

especially if ! p]son salut$ is ( high  
social /&+4 ,! h&s1 jo9$ ) ! ?umbs      
toge!r & rais$1  are wav$ up & d[n 9    
front ( ! =ehead4    ,!re is a code (   
social etiquette among ,tibetans ev5 ( !
 mo/  degrad$ tribes4 ,= in/ance1 x is n
 cu/om>y to ent] a t5t  )\t fir/ ann\nc+
 "o's pres5ce & dem&+ admittance4 ,also1
  no ,tibetan travell]1 except ,gov]nm5t
 mess5g]s1 w ent] an  encampm5t aft] d>k
 unless he has w>n$ ! inhabitants       
be=eh&4    ,x mu/ n be argu$ t because !
 (ficials ( ,tibet--! ,lamas            
p>ticul>ly--%[ int5se cruelty1          
especially to =eign]s1 ev]ybody  9      
,tibet is cruel4 ,on ! contr>y1 !re are 
_m folks 9 ,tibet :o  possess g5]\s     
he>ts4 ,! p are *>itable to a degree1   
ev5  ! poore/ %>+ :at little !y h )     
/rang]s poor] ?an  !mselves4 ,dur+ my   
captivity 9 ,tibet1 on my fir/          
exp$ition1 on  _m occasions individual  
,tibetans %[$ sympa?y & consid]ation1   
:51 _h x be5 discov]$1 x w\ld h co/ !m  
_! heads4 ,s  t1 aft] all1 n all        

,tibetans are bad4 ,if any?+--b>r+ !    
,lamas--! p are r good-natur$ & easygo+1
 easily l$ &  influ5c$ if tak5 ! "r way4
    ,tibetan m5 are n fight+ m51 & are1 
p]haps1 ! mo/  contemptible c[>ds 9 face
 ( dang]4 ,curi\sly en\gh1 x is n  fe> (
 dea? :i* makes !m pusillanim\s1 b      
app>5tly ! notion  ( gett+ hurt & !     
absolute lack ( resolution4 ,if ord]$ by
 8  sup]iors & impress$ ) ! idea t if   
kill$ by ! enemy he  w f9d himself 9    
heav51 :]eas if he bolts & returns to   
camp he  w be behead$ & g to a hell (   
ice & sn[--yes1 ! ,tibetan hell  is a   
cool place2 b _! heav5 is w>m1 ) spl5did
 graz+ =  yaks6--!n1 inde$1 a ,tibetan w
 /& helplessly to be %ot )\t  def5d+    
himself1 :ile ,maxim guns & %rapnel &   
o!r ?+s (  ! k9d are play+ ^u him4 ,!   
c>nages ( ! ,briti% ,tibet  ,mission1 ( 
:i* we import]s ( civilisation %\ld n   
feel too  pr\d1 are a good in/ance (    
?is4    ,s1 aga91 al?\gh a contemptible 
c[>d1 he does n fe> dea?4 ,i  myself1   
:ile 9 ,tibet1 c\ld confirm ?is /atem5t 

by _m p]sonal  exp]i5ces4 ,:5 (ficials  
came to induce me to leave ! c\ntry !y  
ma9ta9$1 & x 0 true1 t !y _h /rict ord]s
 f ,lhassa to  drive me away4 ,if !y    
return$ unsuccessful f _! mission !y    
w\ld1 !y decl>$1 be behead$4 ,:5 ,i     
insi/$ on cont9u+ my  j\rney !y         
frequ5tly h&$ me _! sword1 reque/+ me to
 cut (f  _! head !n & !re1 :i* w\ld save
 !m ! di%on\r (  degradation & a public 
execution4    ,once or twice1 z !       
,tibetans on my fir/ j\rney _h giv5 me a
 ta/e  ( :at x felt l to be tak5 out to 
! execution gr\nd & h a  sword fl\ri%$  
r\nd my neck1 ,i ?\ght t ,i 0 fully     
entitl$ to  try a practical joke & see  
:at effect ! simil> s5sation w\ld  h on 
,tibetan (fic]s4 ,only1 ( c\rse1 9 my   
case ,i _h n ask$  to be behead$1 &     
!re=e ! process came m z a surprise1    
besides be+ c>ri$ out 9 dead e>ne/ up   
to1 b =tunately ) a  po/ponem5t (1 ! la/
 /roke4    ,to g on ) my n>rative1 ,i   
pret5d$ to accept ! (f] ( !  ,tibetan   
(fic]s1 &1 call+ all my m51 l9$ !m up to

 witness !  execution4 ,! ,tibetan      
(fic]s knelt d[n1 some:at trembl+ b  q  
resign$1 & cle>$ _! necks to make my "w 
easy4 ,_m (  !m did n fl9*1 b "s did :5 
,i approa*$1 br&i%+ !  sword 9 _! own   
fa%ion2 &1 by ,jove6 ! latt] prov$      
!mselves  to be ! *ampion runn]s ( !    
c\ntry4 ,naturally1 ,i nev] injur$  ^!  
fell[s 9 any way1 & :5 !y %[$ any       
det]m9ation at all  ,i always gave !m a 
suitable pres5t ( "s sort or o!r4       
,aft] ! p]=mance 0 ov] !y fully ent]$   
into ! hum\r (  ! joke !mselves1 & we   
us$ to h v he>ty laughs ov] x1  &       
endless cups ( tea4    ,:5 y travel 9   
,tibet y see1 9 ! daytime1 m5 & wom5    
g>b$  9 heavy sk9 coats2 only "o sleeve 
at a "t is put on :ile half !  *e/ & !  
o!r arm are left b>e4 ,?is1 to any "o n 
suspect+  ! reason1 looks v incongru\s1 
& has l$ to all sorts (  ridicul\s      
explanations f ! usual !oretical        
sci5ti/s at home4  ,! real explanation  
is simple & is ?is4    ,z ,i h else:]e  
expla9$1 ! heat ( ! sun is 9 ,tibet v   

great--especially 9 ,s\!rn ,tibet1--!   
latitude n be+ _m degrees  nor?1 & ! p[]
 ( ! sun's rays is ev5 int5sifi$ by !   
cle>ness ( ! r>efi$ air4 ,on ! o!r h&1  
ow+ to ! imm5se  elevation1 ! cold is   
int5se :]ev] ! sun does n /rike1 s  t x 
is n uncommon to feel absolutely roa/$  
on ! sunny side  & froz5 on ! o!r4 ,h5ce
 ! necessity ( hav+ w9t] clo?+  to cov] 
half y\r anatomy1 :ile ! o!r half dem&s 
no?+ m  ?an tropical b>5ess4    ,!      
,tibetans are n arti/ic by nature4 ,_!  
art is ( ! mo/  rudim5t>y k9d4 ,a few   
e>!n pots1 graceful en\gh 9 %ape1 b (   
no extraord9>y beauty1 are manufactur$  
by !m1 & "s brass &  iron vessels are   
made 9 ! cities4 ,also1 ( c\rse1 9 a    
population  ( sev]al millions !re h be5 
a few individuals :o h  attempt$ m      
ambiti\s works ( art1 su* z pa9t+s      
7mo/ly (  religi\s subjects7 &          
sculptures1 b al?\gh 9 ! pa9t+s !       
col\r+ is bright1 & mu* c>e is devot$ to
 details1 anatomical  accuracy &        
proportion are always lack+ 9 ! figures1

 & n ev5  a %ade ( p]spective is to be  
notic$ 9 _! l&scapes4 ,9 c]ta9          
conv5tional decorative ways1 h[ev]1 !   
,tibetans are q ma/]s1  z1 = in/ance1 9 
! gigantic religi\s inscriptions "o     
frequ5tly  f9ds all ov] ! c\ntry ^u     
dang]\s v]tical cliffs4 ,"o ( !  col\r$ 
plates giv5 9 ?is book repres5ts a "y   
,lama--! ,lamas  c always be di/+ui%$ 9 
,tibet by _! clean-%av5  heads--inscrib+
 ! words 8,om mani padme hum0 ^u ! face 
( a rock4  ,! "w is c>ri$ on at a great 
height1 ! arti/ be+ susp5d$ 9  a rope   
sl+4 ,lamas ) any special tal5t 9 ?is   
direction are kept  9 mona/]ies & s5t   
all ov] ! c\ntry to adorn ! b>r5        
l&scape1 especially on high c>avan      
r\tes1 ) ^! sacr$  *>act]s4 ,p]haps1 :5 
,tibet has be5 fully op5$ to =eign      
civilisation1 ^! tal5ts w f9d a m       
remun]ative occupation 9  sub/itut+ = ! 
sacr$ words adv]tisem5ts ( fancy soaps &
  hair re/or]s4    ,^! sculptors1 &1 9  
fact1 mo/ ( ! clev]] ,tibetans1 are     
practically ambidext]1 be+ able to use  

ei!r h&1 especially 9  works :i* require
 no great delicacy ( t\*4 ,z c be se5 9 
!  illu/ration1 ! "y ,lama is us+ !     
hamm] ) 8 left h&4    ,! clo? made by   
,tibetans is ( great /r5g?1 especially  
fabrics (  yak hair1 b seldom ( a h&some
 design4 ,v irregul> designs are        
occasionally attempt$1 b usually !      
,tibetan woman is wise en\gh  nev] to   
dep>t f ! /rip$ patt]n4 ,tibetan fabrics
 are g5]ally  wov5 too n>r[ = any       
practical use 9 ,european c\ntries4     
,,*apt] ,,xvii      ,p]haps "s ( !      
exp]i5ces we _h on our trip across      
c\ntry may  int]e/ ! read]4 ,in/ead (   
return+ by ,t9k] we proce$$ 9 a         
nor?-we/]ly direction1 employ+ an old   
man--a mo/ peculi> fell[1  s wr9kl$ t he
 seem$ almo/ mummifi$--:o said he knew !
 way  across ! intricate ranges4 ,:5 we 
_h ne>ly rea*$ ! summit (  ! range1 we  
came 9 = a v bad /orm1 a regul> blizz>d1
 & x  delay$ u = "s h\rs4 ,my guide1 z  
is usual ) guides1 lo/ 8  head1 &1 :at 0
 worse1 also 8 way4 ,we c\ld n rema9 :]e

 we  71 & we c\ld n see :]e we 7 go+4   
,i took matt]s into my own h&s1 &1 by   
compass1 tri$ to f9d my way  to :]e ,i  
suppos$ ! place 02 b we exp]i5c$ great  
difficulty  9 gett+ along1 ow+ to ! sn[ 
be+ driv5 ) great =ce into  our faces & 
obscur+ ! view a few y>ds away f u4 ,i  
f\nd !  pass "r en\gh1 ! blizz>d abat+ =
 a few mom5ts1 & we sank  9 s(t sn[ up  
to our knees1 :i* made m>*+ v heavy4 ,we
  desc5d$ a few hundr$ feet & f\nd      
ourselves 9 a sort ( gully1  :i*        
necessitat$ mak+ ano!r asc5t to a high] 
& m difficult  pass be=e we c\ld desc5d 
into ! valley :]e ! s\rces ( !  ,ganges 
are to be f\nd4    ,night 0 com+ on fa/1
 my m5 7 9 a pitiable condition f       
fatigue & cold1 & ! w9d blew !          
gr\nd-sn[--froz5 into gra9s  l s&--9    
regul> :irlw9ds r\nd u1 :i* pretty well 
bl9d$ u4  ,i 0 ahead ( my p>ty ) two m51
 /ruggl+ up ! /eep incl9e1  :5 "s ( ^? 9
 ! re> %\t$ t ?ree ( my m5 _h  rema9$   
beh9d & 7 miss+4 ,!y 7 no long] answ]+ !
  signals we con/antly made 9 ord] n to 

lose "o ano!r4 ,?is  necessitat$ a long 
delay & a se>* be+ made = !m4 ,"o ( !   
pictures 9 ?is book %[s u %\t+ to !m 9  
ord] to f9d _!  :]eab\ts1 b we %\t$     
ourselves ho>se & got no answ]4 ,i      
detail$ two ( my be/ m5 to g back to f9d
 !m1 & provid$ !m  ) extra blankets1 z  
!y w\ld v likely sp5d ! night up !re  & 
n cat* u up till ! next day4 ,i also    
left ! mummifi$ guide  ) !m4    ,we w5t 
on & ev5tually got ov] ! high] & m      
difficult pass  be=e x got too d>k1 !   
w9d bl[+ s h>d t we _h at times  great  
difficulty 9 proce$+ aga9/ x4 ,! desc5t 
0 mo/  dang]\s1 ! sn[ 0 trea*]\s1 & :5  
we got l[] d[n we got  among a lot (    
loose b\ld]s & dang]\s %eets ( ice1 :i* 
gave  u no end ( tr\ble4 ,we 7 b5ight$1 
& x got s d>k t we did  n see :]e we 7  
putt+ our feet1 :i*1 half-froz5 z !y  71
 con/antly got jamm$ & knock$ & bruis$4 
,"s ( !  r\nd] b\ld]s frequ5tly roll$ "u
 u z we trod on !m1 &  caus$ u v na/y   
falls4 ,at ea* /ep we unavoidably />t$ a
  regul> l&slip ( rocks & dbris1 roll+  

d[n ! /eep m\nta9  side1 ! fracas ( :i*1
 ) ! h[l+ ( ! w9d1 made q a  diabolical 
noise4    ,! l[] we got1 ! w>m] x       
became1 &1 ( c\rse1 ! sn[  less5$ &     
ev5tually disappe>$4 ,we travell$ = a   
long di/ance  along ! b$ ( a riv]1 &1   
f>!r on1 ^u :at seem$ ! anci5t  b$ ( a  
lake1 an imm5se1 flat /ret* ( gravel4   
,hav+ got among "s big b\ld]s1 :i*      
necessitat$ a lot (  fatigu+ "w on all  
f\rs1 "o ( my m51 9 try+ to help me to  
get  d[n a big rock1 slipp$1 & dragg$ me
 ) him1 a jump ( "s #ae  feet4 ,z ,i    
fell on my back1 ,i 0 consid]ably %ak51 
:ile my man  injur$ 8 arm r badly4    ,a
 little lat]1 hav+ rea*$ ! camp+ gr\nd (
 ,dongan1 we halt$  & pit*$ our t5ts at 
f\r o'clock 9 ! morn+4 ,x 0 n till  late
 9 ! day t ! miss+ m5 & ^? s5t to _!    
relief  arriv$ 9 a pitiable condition4  
,!y _h be5 compell$ to ab&on two  loads4
 ,"o man 0 badly fro/-bitt51 ano!r tak5 
) su* viol5t  cramps & pa9s 9 8 inside t
 ,i _h grave fe>s = 8 recov]y4  ,he _h  
to be c>ri$1 :i* involv$ a t]rible tax  

on my o!r m51  :o 7 all mu* worn &      
footsore4    ,our m>* ! previ\s day _h  
be5 ov] tw5ty-two miles4 ,dongan 0  only
 #ad1ajj feet above sea-level1 & we felt
 comp>atively com=table  & w>m4 ,we _h  
?ree high peaks to #hj1 #ajj1 #abe b4m41
 & to !  nor?-we/ 0 ! ,lippu ,lekh1     
#af1ghj feet4    ,i revisit$ ! s\rce ( !
 ,ganges1 a pretty little spot :]e a    
limpid spr+ gurgles out f "u a big      
b\ld]1 & =ms a  cry/al-l pool adorn$ )  
*okd5s4 ,?is wat] is delici\sly  cool1 &
 v ne>ly caus$ ! dea? ( ?ree ( my ,h9doo
 m54 ,!y  drank copi\sly :ile soak$ 9   
p]spiration1 & wa%$ !mselves  prior to  
eat+ _! food4 ,!y 7 seiz$ ) a colic     
accompani$  by high fev]1 & !y groan$ 9 
_! contortions ^u ! gr\nd4  ,we appli$  
massage freely & viol5t rubb+1 :i*1 ) an
  additional quick cure ( my own1 is v  
successful on su* occasions2  &         
ev5tually--aft] "s h\rs--!y 7 able to   
cont9ue1 al?\gh  /ill suff]+4    ,p>tly 
ow+ to ! /ra9 be+ ov]1 p>tly ow+ to !   
int5se  suff]+s ( ! previ\s day1 & !    

excessive eat+ to celebrate  ! tempor>y 
end ( our tr\bles1 ?ree m m5 7 tak5 v   
ill  on our way up ! ,kuti valley1 & ,i 
_h to s5d !m d[n into  ,g>byang4    ,i 0
 n[ aga9 9 ,bias1 a portion ( ! c\ntry  
practically c$$  t ye> by ! ,briti%     
,gov]nm5t to ,tibet4 ,9 fact1 ,tibetan  
emiss>ies _h be5 9 all !                
villages--,gungi1 ,nabi1 ,ronkan1 &     
,kuti--impos+ ^u ! natives 9 e way1     
claim+ taxes &  proclaim+ ,tibetan      
sov]eignty4    ,at ,kuti1 :]e ,i arriv$1
 z usual1 9 ! middle ( ! night1 ow+  to 
! long m>*es we did daily1 ,i _h !      
surprise & pleasure (  meet+ ,nattal    
aga91 "o ( ! /ronge/-will$1 noble/-m9d$1
  pluckie/1 & sweete/ little ladies ,i h
 ev] met4 ,%e 0 a ,kutial  ,%oka1 & z   
pretty z !y make !m4 ,h] grace ( mann]1 
h]  inconceivable ?\ghtfulness &        
absolute purity ( ?\ght 7 en\gh  to put 
to %ame _m a woman ( m civilis$         
c\ntries4    ,be+ a lady ( weal?1 = a   
,%oka--= h] husb& 0 "o ( ! big  trad]s (
 ! di/rict--%e own$ ! f9e/ h\se 9 ,kuti4

 ,%e w\ld  n he> ( our rema9+ "u canvas1
 & insi/$ on evacuat+ !  h\se to let u  
occupy x4 ,n only t1 b ! poor ?+ sat up 
half ! night to prep>e sweets & all     
sorts ( luxuries = our  b5efit1 & ,i _h 
a great /ruggle ! next day--ev5 !       
sweete/  woman c be ob/9ate--to make h] 
accept a suffici5t remun]ation =  h]    
tr\ble4    ,bo? ,tibetan emiss>ies & m5 
f ! ,briti% ,political ,ag5t 7  hid+ 9 !
 village 9 ord] to attempt wreck+ my    
exp$ition &  /irr+ ! natives up aga9/   
me2 9 fact1 ! p 7 mo/  turbul5t 9 !     
morn+1 & ,i ?\ght we %\ld come 9 = a    
good  fight4 ,we _h to knock ab\t "s ( !
 villag]s1 :o seem$ morose  & incl9$ to 
give tr\ble1 & at "o mom5t x look$ z if 
a  g5]al battle might result4 ,/ones 7  
?r[n at u1 & we ?\ght  we _h bett]      
disp]se ! cr[d be=e x got too =midable4 
,:ile my  m5 p\nd$ away on "s ( ! m     
excit$ folks & drove !m back1  ,nattal  
/ood by me & gave h] rebelli\s c\ntrym5 
su* sonor\s  cracks on ! head ) a heavy 
/ick--heav5s6 0 %e n quick )  h] h&s6--t

 ,i _h to sit d[n on a /one1 9          
convulsions (  laught]4 ,!n %e ev5      
p]suad$ a numb] ( ,kutials to ent] my   
employ & accompany me4 ,o!rs :o refus$  
to come %e call$ c[>ds1  spat ^u !m1 &  
aga9 gave !m a ta/e ( ! /ick4 ,i lik$ h]
  v mu* = t4    ,a relative ( h]s1 :om  
%e p>ticul>ly w>n$ to be fai?ful to me1 
prov$ himself "o ( ! mo/ h>d-work+ &    
devot$ foll[]s ,i  h ev] _h4    ,i well 
rememb] h]1 ! day we left4 ,%e1 ) a     
great _m villag]s1  came to accompany u 
to ! b\nd>y ( _! village1 a high po9t  f
 :i* an ext5sive view is obta9$ ( ! upp]
 c\rse ( !  ,kuti ,riv] along :i* we 7  
to travel4 ,hav+ bade u a melan*oly     
good-bye--= %e _h a pres5tim5t t we %\ld
 h great tr\ble  be=e u--%e sat h]self  
^u a rock1 re/+ h] placid little face   
^u h] h&s1 & %e rema9$ wat*+ u until we 
7 out (  sight4 ,e n[ & !n we wav$ our  
h&s at h]1 & h] little arm  wav$ a p>t+ 
salute aga9/ ! bright l9e ( ! sky4 ,t 0 
!  la/ we saw ( ,nattal4    ,by a mo/   
rem>kable co9cid5ce1 z ,i sat d[n 9 my  

,london rooms to  jot d[n ^! words =    
publication--n[ five ye>s lat]1--z ,i 0 
writ+ ! ^w 8,nattal0 ^u ! pap] a lett] f
 ,india 0  h&$ to me4 ,on op5+ x1 x     
conta9$ ! sad news t ,nattal 0  dead4   
,,*apt] ,,xviii      ,! correct$        
elevation ( ! ,kuti village by          
boil+-po9t  !rmomet]s is #ab1eed        
feet--possibly "o ( ! highe/ villages 9 
!  _w4    ,x 0 my int5tion to g up !    
,kuti ,riv] 9 a nor?-we/ direction  &   
cross ov] ! ,lebung ,pass into ! ,d>ma  
di/rict1 9 ! nor!rn  "p ( :i* ,i want$  
to explore "s glaci]s & passes4 ,! way  
up  ! ,kuti ,riv] 0 naturally v r\gh1 b 
we _h no great  difficulty2 & z my own  
m5 7 refre%$1 & ,i also _h excell5t     
additional foll[]s & lavi% food =       
ev]ybody1 ev]y?+ w5t  well en\gh until  
we rea*$ ,jol9kan4    ,! ,gov]nm5t      
*aprassis :om ,i _h tak5 prison]s 7     
gett+ v  anxi\s1 n[ t !y saw be=e !m    
ano!r prospect ( camp+ on  sn[ & ice1 & 
endeav\r$ to escape4 ,i /opp$ !m 9 "t1 &
  w>n$ !m v s]i\sly4 ,) long1 depress$  

faces !y swore !y  w\ld n leave me till 
x pleas$ me to deliv] !m 9 p]son to  _! 
sup]ior (fic]4    ,we _h br\ght up "s   
%eep1 c>ry+ loads ( food1 & _!  s]vices 
answ]$ a d\ble purpose4 ,:5 ! loads 7   
consum$ !  transport animals provid$    
n\ri%+ diet = my m54    ,our camp at !  
foot ( ! ,lebung ,pass 0 #ad1iac feet   
above  sea-level4    ,we "h ab&on$ !    
,kuti ,riv]1 & aft] a good night's re/  
proce$$ to asc5d ! ,lebung ,pass1 by :i*
 we 7 to cross ! high  range sep>at+ !  
valley ( ,d>ma f t ( ! ,kuti ,riv]4     
,along  ?is range1 a spur f ! ,himahlyan
 ma9 backbone runn+ some:at  tortu\sly 9
 a g5]al s\?-ea/ direction1 are sev]al  
peaks ris+  to great elevations3 #bj1gfj
 feet1 #bj1bej feet1 #bj1cbd feet1      
#bj1chf  feet1 #bj1cbh feet1 #bj1bfd    
feet1 #bj1dee feet4 ,! asc5t on ! ea/   
side 0 v /eep1 b pres5t$ no great       
difficulty1 al?\gh my m5  suff]$        
consid]ably ow+ to hav+ ov]-eat5        
!mselves !  previ\s night & 9 ! morn+   
be=e />t+4    ,on ! pass1 #ai1jaf feet1 

we erect$ a cairn1 & ,i took obs]vations
  on mo/ ( my m54 ,!y ne>ly all suff]$ f
 m\nta9 sickness1 &  ! pulse ( all 0 mu*
 accel]at$4 ,! highe/ regi/]$ #abf1     
#aah1  #acd1 #ajh pulsations4 ,! av]age 
pulsations ( ^! m5 at !  altitude :]e !y
 liv$ 0 f #ff to #ij4 ,! usual symptoms 
7  pres5t3 a v w>m =ehead1 pa9s &       
vigor\s ?ump+ at !  temples1 pressure & 
a*es 9 ! top & back ( head4 ,curi\sly   
en\gh1 :5 ! pa9 9 ! temples 0 only on "o
 side1 x 0  g5]ally on ! "r side ( !    
head4 ,occasionally ?is pa9  ext5d$ all 
along ! po/]ior fissure ( ! cranium4    
,he>t-?robb+ z well z ?ump+ 9 ! c5tre ( 
! *e/ 7  g5]al1 & great sleep9ess &     
exhau/ion prevail$ among !m4 ,!  pupils 
( ! eyes 7 abnormally contract$1 almo/  
to ! size (  ! po9t ( a p94    ,:5 we _h
 re/$ suffici5tly we f\nd ourselves     
confront$ )  r a try+ task4 ,on ! o!r   
side ( ! pass ( rott5 rock1  sev]al     
hundr$ feet 9 height1 n unlike :at we _h
 met on !  ,savage ,pass1 0 a precipit\s
 wall1 requir+ some:at ( a /eady  head &

 endless lab\r 9 gett+ ov]4 ,p]haps a   
glance at !  illu/ration depict+ ! sc5e 
w give a bett] idea ( !  situation ?an a
 long description4 ,my m5 c be se5      
convey+ d[n  ! baggage--a mo/ t$i\s &   
long p]=mance1 ea* package be+  pass$   
d[n f "o man to ano!r /ation$ at        
int]vals along !  v]tical rock4 ,z !    
di/ance 0 consid]able & ! m5 few1 ea*   
man _h to und]go consid]able ex]tion & a
 lot ( climb+ up &  d[n to collect f !  
man above & deliv] ea* load to 8        
neighb\r bel[4 ,s t to g ^? few hundr$  
y>ds took u sev]al  h\rs4 ,! %eep       
accompany+ u1 too1 _h to be c>ri$ d[n "o
 by  "o1 & 9 "s places let d[n by means 
( rope sl+s4    ,we _h pass$ a small    
glaci] on ! ea/ wat]%$ ( ! pass1 &  n[  
we _h bel[ u to ! s\?-we/ ! great       
,lebung ,glaci]1 fe$+  ! ,dholi ,ganga  
by two or ?ree /reamlets4 ,we skirt$ x  
to ! nor?  on a lot ( dbris4 ,! ma9     
portion _h a g5]al direction f  nor?-ea/
 to s\?-we/1 !n an arm ext5d$ due we/4  
,9 ! latt]  portion ( ! glaci] 7 big    

cracks 9 ! ice1 :ile to !  nor?-we/ 0 an
 imm5se dune ( ice1 mud1 & dbris1 =m+ a 
l9e  f #cj to #bca4 ,f ?is po9t (       
obs]vation ! ,lebung ,pass /ood  at #baj
 b4m4 ,!re 7 f9e t]races 9 ?is glaci]1  
support$ on a  high wall ( ice & mud4   
,to ! s\?-ea/ c\ld be se5 "o ( !  high  
sn[y peaks t[]+ ov] ! ,rama ,glaci] to !
 s\? ( !  ,lebung4    ,! ,d>ma ,valley1 
9 :i* we n[ f\nd ourselves1 takes its "n
 f  ! ,d>ma ,yangti1 a riv] :i* has its 
bir? at ! foot ( !  ,lumpiya ,pass1 & is
 fur!r f$ by ! tribut>y /reams f glaci]s
  on ei!r side4    ,! ,d>ma ,p>ganah 0 (
 "s int]e/ to me1 z "o ( ! m9or  r\tes  
into ,tibet 0 along ?is riv]4 ,d>ma     
prop] 0 divid$ into  two divisions3 !   
,malla & ! ,talla1 or 8upp]0 & 8l[]10   
,d>ma4  ,! ,malla ,d>ma is t portion :i*
 comprises ! ,liss> ,riv] &  ! ,dholi   
,ganga1 :]eas ! ,talla ,d>ma1 z its "n  
sugge/s1 lies  ne>] to ! po9t at :i* !  
,dholi ,ganga meets ! ,kali ,riv]4    ,!
 ,d>ma ,%okas1 a tribe some:at diff]+ f 
! ,%okas ( ,bias  & ,*audas1 c>ry on !  

entire trade ) ,tibet by ! ,d>ma r\te4  
,gyanema is ! ma9 c5tre1 & ! commodities
 are *iefly borax1  salt1 wool1 sk9s1   
clo?1 & ut5sils1 9 ex*ange = :i* !      
,tibetans receive silv]1 :eat1 rice1    
sattoo1 ghur1 c&i$ sug>1  pepp]1 beads (
 all k9ds1 & a few articles ( ,indian   
manufacture4    ,x 0 gett+ t[>ds ! end (
 ,septemb] :5 ,i 0 9 ?is region1  & !   
wea!r 0 v cold & /ormy4 ,we _h pl5ty (  
sn[ e  night & ! w9ds 7 cutt+4 ,x 0 a   
great temptation1 ,i mu/  confess1 :5 we
 rea*$ ! ,dholi ,riv]1 to turn t[>ds !  
s\?1  :i* w\ld br+ u to l[] elevations &
 !re=e to w>m? &  com=t2 b my "w 0 n    
f9i%$1 & we _h aga9 to g t[>ds  ! nor?  
7,n4,n4,w41 to be /rictly accurate71 =  
,i wi%$ to solve  c]ta9 geographical    
problems & visit "s passes into !       
,=bidd5  ,l& :i* ,i _h n yet asc5d$4    
,we camp$ t night at a dre>y spot call$ 
,gankan 7#ab1bie feet71  :]e we expect$ 
to f9d "s trad]s1 ?is be+ "o ( _!       
tempor>y /ations1 b did n4 ,s we f>$ r  
badly4 ,we c\ld  f9d no fuel1 & ! supply

 :i* !y g5]ally br+ up ) !m  0 q        
exhau/$4 ,all ! trad+ ) ,tibet 0 n[ ov] 
f ?is  side1 & ev]ybody _h retir$       
s\?w>d4 ,two /ray %eep--"o dead1  ! o!r 
/ill alive b ) brok5 legs--7 ly+ ne> !  
wall  :i* m>k$ ! fav\rite spot = a      
camp+-gr\nd4 ,we pass$ a v  *illy night1
 & ! next day :5 we woke sn[ 0 fall+    
heavily4  ,my m5 seem$ to be suff]+ly   
greatly1 & ,i decid$ to ask = two       
volunte]s to accompany me & c>ry my     
in/rum5ts to ! glaci]s  nor?w>ds1 !     
rema9d] ( ! exp$ition proce$+ "o m>*    
s\?w>d1 to a place :]e fuel c\ld be     
obta9$1 & await+ our  return !re4    ,we
 ?ree />t$ (f 9 a fi]ce w9d at six      
o'clock 9 ! morn+1  & pass$ ?ree small  
glaci]s to ! ea/--! ,suiti1 ,pungrung1 &
  ,mangti4 ,to ! we/ 7 five o!r small]  
glaci]s4 ,we _h gradually  ris5 to      
#ae1jjj feet1 & f>!r on1 at ! foot ( !  
,nui ,glaci]1  at ! spot kn[n z ! ,nui  
,encamp+-gr\nd1 ! altitude 0 #af1iej    
feet4    ,x 0 at ?is place t1 9 ! mi/ & 
sn[1 we saw ! imm5se  image ( :at seem$ 

a conv5tional cr\*+ lion sculptur$ 9 !  
rock4 ,on approa*+ x1 h[ev]1 ! illusion 
0 expla9$4 ,! ma9  body--z ,i h already 
expla9$--0 m]ely a gigantic b\ld]1 :ile 
! ext5d$ paws & tail 7 mani walls ) end 
*okd5s built away  f ! rock4 ,f a c]ta9 
po9t ( view x look$ exactly l a  lion4  
,?is be+ ! la/ camp be=e trad]s attempt 
! high pass1 _m  *okd5s ( all sizes are 
to be se5 all ov] ! valley & on !       
hill-side4 ,"o ( ! peculi>ities ( ^!    
*okd5s is t !y are  z mu* z possible    
built ) :ite or light-col\r$ /ones4     
,! w9d _h got mu* worse z we got high]1 
& ! ef=t ( walk+  0 consid]able4 ,we _h 
gone "s elev5 miles1 & my two m5 7 s    
exhau/$ !y 7 unable to cont9ue4 ,!y     
dragg$ along  uncompla9+ly1 b ,i c\ld   
see t !y 7 on ! v]ge (  break+ d[n4 ,at 
! foot ( ! ,nui we _h "s food1 & hav+   
lad5 myself ) all ! necess>y in/rum5ts &
 cam]as--q a  consid]able weight--left  
my two m5 to await my return1 :ile ,i   
w5t  alone to survey ! ,nui ,glaci] &   
climb ! high pass4    ,once alone1 ,i   

proce$$ at a great] spe$1 b ! gr\nd 0   
mu*  brok5 by huge b\ld]s1 & to cov] a  
%ort di/ance involv$ a lot  ( lab\r4    
,ab\t "o mile & a half f :]e ,i _h left 
my m5 ,i  came 9 = an exp]i5ce :i* ,i   
did n q expect at t mom5t1  al?\gh1     
=tunately1 ,i 0 prep>$ = any em]g5cy4   
,! ,tibetans _h _h "t to prep>e a great 
_m sn>es = me1 & to  s5d soldi]s to all 
! passes1 & :at !y c\ld n d by fac+  me 
direct !y attempt$ z usual to accompli% 
by trea*]y4 ,mu* to  my a/oni%m5t 9 ?is 
desolate region1 ,i came ^u a ,tibetan  
com=tably seat$ ^u ! gr\nd1 ^u :i* he _h
 spread sev]al  coats4 ,i ask$ him if he
 7 alone1 & he said yes4    8,:at are y 
do+ "h80    8,i am go+ back to my       
c\ntry4 ,my fri5ds w5t ahead ye/]day40  
8,surely y h "s "o ) y2 y _c c>ry all ^?
 coats  & p>aph]nalia80    8,no1 no no2 
,i am q alone40    ,z ,i 0 /&+ talk+ to 
him ,i notic$ t 8 eyes 7 look+  at      
some?+ beh9d me1 & on turn+ r\nd f\nd   
myself confront$  ) ?ree ,tibetans1 :o  
_h evid5tly crawl$ out f beh9d rocks    

:]e !y 7 hidd54 ,!y made a da% to seize 
my rifle z ,i unslung  x f my %\ld]s1 b 
!y 7 n quick en\gh4 ,9 a second !  f\r? 
fell[--! "o sitt+ d[n--_h jump$ up to   
help 8  companions4    ,"o fell[ got    
some:at ( a d5t 9 8 skull ) ! butt ( my 
rifle1 ! o!rs1 unluckily1 ran away1 & ,i
 did n pursue !m1 z ,i  ne$$ all ! /r5g?
 ,i possess$ to g up ! pass4 ,z !       
,tibetans  disappe>$ 9 ! direction ,i _h
 come ,i became r al>m$ = my  m51 le/ !y
 %\ld be tak5 by trea*]y1 b ,i knew !y  
c\ld take  c>e ( !mselves4    ,aft] tak+
 a re/1 = ! viol5t ex]tion _h caus$ me a
 deal (  pant+ & bl[+1 ,i cont9u$4 ,i   
soon got out ( ! dbris &  b\ld]s1 :]e ,i
 proce$$ ) great caution1 & got ^u ! sn[
  on ! nor? side ( ! glaci]4 ,= real    
maje/ic beauty ! ,nui  ,glaci] _c be    
surpass$4 ,x has imm5se t]races ( cle>  
gre5i%  ice1 q regul> & well padd$ ) sn[
 on ! surface2 gigantic  crevasses1 d[n 
:i* "o 0 almo/ afraid to look1 & a      
backgr\nd  ( huge :ite %>p-edg$ peaks1 l
 ! tee? ( a saw1 s :ite  inde$ t ! /ormy

 sky beyond look$ z black z ink4 ,x 0   
truly  "o ( ! mo/ impressive sc5es ,i h 
ev] set eyes ^u4 ,i nev]  feel v big on 
any occasion1 b ,i d n rememb] ev] feel+
 q  s small & humble & insignificant z  
,i did on t p>ticul>  occasion--a m]e   
speck1 a m]e black spot1 di/urb+ !      
peaceful  h>mony ( ! gr&iose l&scape4   
,i h attempt$ to depict ! sc5e 9 "o ( ! 
illu/rations1 b  no bru% nor canvas c   
satisfactorily reproduce ! imm5sity ( ^?
  :ite m\nta9s t[]+ ar\nd y1 !          
incalculable masses ( sn[1  ! almo/     
t]rify+ appe>ance ( ! imm5se cracks 9 ! 
ice  hundr$s ( feet deep4 ,x gave y a   
c]ta9 feel+ ( lonel9ess &  helplessness 
9 case ( mi%ap1 & x really made y ?9k a 
good  deal ( h[ small are human be+s &  
h[ pu]ile all _! works1  :5 comp>$ to ^?
 accompli%$ by ! h& ( ,nature4    ,i ?9k
 x w\ld be a good ?+ if a great _m o!r  
au?ors--n to  speak ( our critics1 :o   
ne$ x ev5 m--c\ld h an opportunity  (   
exp]i5c+ ! s5sation ( humility ,i _h ^u 
me t day4    ,b1 humble or n1 ,i w5t on 

& on1 l a t9y little ant ^u !           
immaculate & endless :ite c>pet ( sn[1 &
 high] & high] ,i  gradually rose ^u !  
m\nta9 side t[>ds ! ,nui ,pass4 ,pant+ &
  bl[+1 & ) a feel+ t ,i want$ to ?r[   
away ! rifle &  c>tridges & cam]as &    
in/rum5ts t ,i 0 lugg+ up )  me--oh1 !y 
7 su* a weight6 always 9 ! way1 & ev]   
dangl+  :]e y did n want !m1--,i got    
high] along a n>r[ furr[ s  /eep z to be
 almo/ v]tical4 ,i w5t up = a "t on     
loose rocks  :i* gave way "u me1 & 7 mo/
 try+ to ! temp]4 ,"o c\ld  n help      
con/ant fall+1 & "o's poor f+]s & toes  
got jamm$  to a pitiable ext5t4         
,ov]head a /orm 0 brew+ :i* promis$ to  
be ( ! v wor/  k9d2 b luckily 9 ! la/   
portion ( ! asc5t ,i 0 scre5$  some:at f
 ! cutt+ w9d4 ,gett+ up to ! top 0 a    
t]rible  ef=t1 c>ry+ all my p>aph]nalia1
 b at la/1 9 a desp]ate  /ruggle1 ,i    
manag$ to get !re4    ,! ,nui ,pass     
itself1 z c be se5 by ! draw+ ,i give 9 
^!  pages1 is a v n>r[ op5+1 9 p>ts q   
free f sn[ ow+ to  its /eepness & to be+

 s box$ 94 ,besides1 on ! s\? side1 by  
:i* ,i asc5d$1 x is r m cov]$1 because !
 sn[ is  g5]ally driv5 ) mu* fury f !   
nor?4 ,9 fact1 :5 ,i rea*$  ! summit &  
proce$$ = "s di/ance on ! ,tibetan side 
7nor?  aspect71 ! m\nta9 0 ?ickly padd$ 
) un9t]rupt$ sn[4 ,!  w9d 0 s fi]ce up  
!re t x knock$ me clean (f my feet      
twice4    ,n[ came ! t$i\s job ( boil+  
wat] 9 ! hypsometrical  app>atus to     
asc]ta9 ! altitude1 & tak+ :atev]       
photographs  & sket*es ,i f\nd possible4
 ,b ,i _h no soon] begun to unpack my   
in/rum5ts 9 a %elt]$ nook ?an ! /orm    
broke out 9 all its  viol5ce1 & ! sn[1  
driv5 ) trem5d\s =ce by ! w9d into  my  
face1 felt j l hundr$s ( ne$les & nails 
?r[n at me4 ,i  wa/$ two entire boxes ( 
mat*es 9 sett+ ! hypsometrical /ove     
alight1 & to accompli% ?is ,i _h to     
protect x ) my coat1 (  :i* ,i _h dive/$
 myself4 ,i h nev] envi$ ! ,*9ese gods )
  a hundr$ arms m ?an ,i did on ?is     
occasion1 = "o's two h&s  7 requir$ 9   
tw5ty places at ! same "t1 ! w9d bl[+   

ev]y?+ ab\t 9 a mo/ reckless mann]4 ,!  
wat] seem$ to take  ages to boil1 & !   
/orm 0 gett+ worse & worse e mom5t1     
almo/ freez+ my poor h&s1 nose & e>s1 & 
giv+ me int5se  pa94    ,at la/ !       
welcome puff ( /eam began to escape f ! 
app>atus2  ! temp]ature ( boil+ wat]    
7#agha7 & ! temp]ature ( !  air 7#cj7 7 
duly regi/]$1 & ,i repack$ ev]y?+ to    
make my  desc5t4 ,! altitude--! correct 
"o--( ?is pass 9 feet by  hypsometrical 
app>atus 0 #ai1fba feet1 & two excell5t 
an]oids ,i  also c>ri$ regi/]$ #ai1fjj  
feet4    ,a great deal is to be said = &
 aga9/ an]oids4 ,9 a few words1  ?is is 
my exp]i5ce ( !m z reg>ds "w at great   
elevations4  ,unless y c get an]oids (  
te/$ excell5ce & ! v be/ t  money c     
procure1 y _h bett] g )\t !m4 ,v small  
an]oids  may be m portable1 b !y are    
nev] ( any real use4 ,always c>ry  y\r  
an]oids y\rself1 & nev] let !m g out (  
y\r sight if y  want to keep !m 9 good  
ord]1 & nev] rely on !m too mu* except  
:5 con/antly *eck$ by boil+-po9t        

!rmomet]s4 ,p]sonally1 =  important     
elevations1 ,i h reli$ entirely on      
boil+-po9t  !rmomet]s1 ! only practical 
& less cumb]some way ( accurately       
asc]ta9+ heights = an explor]1 b ,i also
 always c>ry sev]al  an]oids1 two       
specially con/ruct$ = me to measure d[n 
to #ab  in*es--ov] #be1jjj feet--& ,i h 
inv>iably f\nd !m accurate4 ,i  use !m  
only = diff]5tial altitudes1 & = ! less 
important  obs]vations4                 
,,*apt] ,,xix      ,& n[ = ! desc5t4 ,i 
0 q numb$ ) cold--y see1 a ?9  %irt only
 is n mu* protection aga9/ sn[ be+ driv5
 into y  ) su* =ce1 & ev5 :5 ,i put on  
my coat aga9 my tee? 7  *att]+ s t ,i   
?\ght !y w\ld break4 ,well1 ,i suppose t
 if  ,i _h be5 m muffl$ up & we>+ heavy 
clo?+ ,i %\ld h  nev] got up !re4 ,my   
legs & h&s _h ne>ly lo/ all feel+ 9  !m4
    ,i load$ my rifle & all my in/rum5ts
 on my back1 also my /raw hat  :i* x 0  
impossible to we> 9 ! "r place1 bade    
,tibet a he>ty  8good-bye10 & d[n ,i    
/rode1 ) some:at disjo9t$ /eps1 by !    

way ,i _h come4 ,! desc5t 0 rapid--a    
great deal too rapid--b p>tly  to get   
away f ! int5se cold1 & ! w9d & ! sn[1  
p>tly  ow+ to ! anxiety :i* ,i /ill felt
 reg>d+ ! safety ( my two  m5 ,i _h left
 beh9d1 ,i really did n try to control  
my spe$4 ,:5 ,i  got among ! loose rocks
 aga91 :i* />t$ a regul> l&slide at  ea*
 /ep "o took1 ,i came v ne> hav+ an     
accid5t :i* might  h _h disa/r\s        
consequ5ces4 ,a /one roll$ "u my        
foot--!y  ne>ly all did--& 9 slipp+ ,i  
got my "r foot badly jamm$ betwe5  two  
l>ge /ones4 ,be=e ,i _h "t to get x (f  
aga91 sev]al big  /ones came roll+ )    
great =ce f above1 & "o hit me s        
viol5tly 9 ! leg1 & on fall+ ^u ! o!r   
rocks squeez$ my  ankle ) su* pressure t
 ,i really ?\ght my leg _h be5          
fractur$4 ,=tunately x 0 n4    ,! pa9 0 
excruciat+1 my feet be+ /ill half-froz51
 & ,i sat  d[n1 rubb+ ! "o foot to      
re/ore "s life to x1 b x swell$         
consid]ably & hung l dead1 :i* caus$ me 
"s little  appreh5sion4 ,viol5t friction

 ) sn[ ,i tri$ next1 & ?is seem$  to br+
 "s w>m? & circulation1 b ! pa9 0       
int5se4 ,"o  fact 0 c]ta91 t x 0 gett+  
late 9 ! aft]noon1 & t  ! ,nui ,pass 0 n
 ! k9d ( place :]e ,i %\ld c>e to be    
b5ight$1 s d[n ,i /ruggl$1 limp+ badly1 
& suff]+ agony  e "t ! foot got jamm$   
aga91 :i* 0 at an av]age ab\t  e m9ute4 
,?ank heav5s6 ,i !n got to ! sn[ incl9e1
 :]e ,i c\ld practise  "s toboggan+1 :i*
 sav$ mu* "t & lab\r1 & d[n ,i slid1    
c>efully regulat+ my spe$ ^u ! sn[ ) my 
good leg4 ,y see1  if "o _h gone too fa/
 "o might h be5 %ot into "o ( ! big     
crevasses ( ! ,nui ,glaci] d[n bel[1 & t
 ,i p>ticul>ly wi%$  to avoid4    ,p>tly
 ?r\gh ! /ra9 ( c>ry+ up su* a heavy    
load1 p>tly  ?r\gh ! v little sleep ,i  
_h obta9$ ( late1 p>tly ow+ to  ! great 
gl>e ( ! imm5se :ite m\nta9s be=e me    
dur+ !  day1 & also 9 a measure to !    
bit+ w9d & sn[--n to speak (  ! pa9 ,i 0
 und]go+--! vision ( ! only good eye ,i 
possess$  became affect$ & caus$ me     
additional tr\ble4 ,at mom5ts my sight  

became obscur$ altoge!r4    ,!re is no  
d\bt t x is well wor? go+ up any high   
m\nta9 =  ! sake ( ! relief &           
satisfaction "o exp]i5ces on com+ d[n   
aga91 & on no occasion did ,i feel ?is m
 /rongly ?an ^u t  day4 ,:5 ,i got d[n  
to ! glaci] aga9--:i* spreads f ea/ to  
we/--,i felt mu* bett]1 & al?\gh /ill q 
lame c\ld proce$ at  a fair pace4    ,i 
ha/5$ d[n to rejo9 my two m51 = ! ev5+ 0
 draw+ 94 ,i  took special c>e n to fall
 into ano!r sn>e--z surely ! ,tibetans  
might attempt "s ( _! games aga9--b no?+
 happ5$4 ,no?+  ev] does :5 y are on y\r
 gu>d4    ,x 0 gett+ d>k :5 ,i arriv$ at
 ! spot :]e my two foll[]s  _h rema9$1 &
 ,i %\t$ myself ho>se1 b got no reply4  
,i look$  = !m 9 sev]al places :]e !y   
might possibly be1 b ,i c\ld  f9d no    
signs ( !m4 ,aga9 ,i %\t$ & %\t$1 b no  
reply4 ,_h  !y be5 murd]$ or _h !y gone 
away8 ,?is 0 p>ticul>ly  tantalis+1     
because n only did ,i feel = _! loss1 b 
,i also  want$ badly to get rid ( ! load
 ,i 0 c>ry+4    ,by a m]e *ance1        

possibly sugge/$ by my close obs]vation 
( ,%oka  ways1 ,i ?\ght t1 be=e dep>t+  
to rejo9 ! ma9 portion ( my  exp$ition1 
,i w\ld inspect "s huge b\ld]s "s way   
(f1 beh9d  :i* ! m5 9 _! long h\rs (    
wait+ might possibly h tak5  %elt]4 ,_h 
!y be5 !re1 ) ! h[l+ w9d !y c\ld n      
possibly he> my voice4 ,9 fact1 "u !    
l>ge/ b\ld]1 :]e !  melt+ sn[ _h =m$ a  
holl[1 ,i discov]$ my two ,%okas wrapp$ 
up1 head & all1 9 _! blankets1 & snor+  
h>d4 ,!y _h giv5  me up = lo/--al?\gh ! 
idea did n di/urb _! sleep--& 7  wait+  
till ! next morn+ to proce$ up ! glaci] 
to look = me4    ,! f\r ,tibetans _h    
tri$ to approa* !m1 pret5d+ fri5d%ip1  b
 !y wisely _h driv5 !m away ) /ones4    
,!n1 = safety1  !y _h at sunset remov$  
_! qu>t]s to a m seclud$ spot4 ,!       
di/ance f ?is spot to ! ,nui ,pass &    
back 0 six miles4    ,! /orm 0 /ill v   
bad1 sn[ 0 aga9 fall+ pl5tifully1 &  we 
decid$ t our be/ plan 0 to make a night 
m>*--long z x  w\ld be--& try to rejo9 !
 o!rs4 ,reliev$ ( ! weight ( rifles  &  

all1 ,i 0 able to get along pretty well1
 except t aft] we _h  gone a c\ple (    
miles x got pit* d>k1 & we /umbl$ aga9/ 
ev]y?+ & got t]ribly j]k$4 ,x sn[$ h>d1 
& ! w9d blew  9 all its fury4 ,we       
ev5tually came ^u ! fa9t trail1 n[ :ite 
) sn[1 b on ?is x 0 consid]ably easi] to
 proce$4 ,we  travell$ n[ on long       
/ret*es ( flat c\ntry1 !n ^u an         
undulat+1 ev5 hilly1 portion ( ! valley1
 occasionally re/+ =  brea? "u ! lee (  
"s big rock1 & draw+ freely on my supply
  ( *ocolate1 :i* "o ( my m5 c>ri$4     
,t[>ds midnight we rea*$ an op5         
space--"o ( !  camp+-gr\nds--call$      
,b$ang1 :]e ! ,tibetans h erect$ ?ree   
ext5sive mani or sacr$ walls1 "o ) a    
numb] ( images4 ,we got on  ! lee side (
 x1 &1 tak+ bundles ( mat*es1 light$ !m 
up to  inspect ! long r[ ( col\r$       
,buddhas =m+ a cornice to ! upp]  "p ( !
 wall4 ,!re 7 doz5s ( ^! images1        
evid5tly all made  9 ! same m\ld1 &     
pa9t$ 9 comb9ations ( yell[1 r$1 &      
blue4 ,!n !re 7 l>ge /ones ) ! usual    

sacr$ inscription1  & fly+ pray]s :]ev] 
!y c\ld be hung4    ,half-way betwe5    
,b$ang & ! ,nui camp+-gr\nd we _h come  
across a  numb] ( *irams 7pyramids1 (t5 
tombs7 & *okd5s4    ,by ! "t we _h rea*$
 ?is sacr$ spot we 7 pretty well tir$   
out & hungry1 b we _h n suffici5t       
blankets to g r\nd nor food  en\gh to   
make u feel really happy aga94 ,we re/$ 
a :ile1 &  be=e our limbs got numb$ )   
cold we aga9 />t$ (f on our  dre>y m>*  
to rejo9 ! ma9 body ( my p>ty4 ,z we got
 l[] d[n  we came 9 = a viol5t %[] (    
hail--! pellets be+ ( su* a  size t !y  
?ump$ r too vigor\sly on our skulls--!n 
torr5ts ( ra94 ,we 7 simply soak$4 ,x   
cle>$ = a few mom5ts1  & ! moon %one =  
"s seconds betwe5 two ugly black        
cl\ds--almo/1 x seem$1 only to laugh at 
u4 ,inde$1 a mom5t lat]  ano!r d[np\r   
froze u to ! m>r[ ( our bones1 & x 0 all
 we  c\ld d to proce$ at all4    ,!re 01
 =tunately1 a n>r[ trail "h1 :i* we     
foll[$1 &  :i* frequ5tly ov]hung        
precipices ( great height4 ,9 sev]al    

places  ! trail 0 actually re/+ on      
cr[b>s ?ru/ into ! face ( !  cliff4 ,we 
/umbl$ along1 b we 7 all s tir$ out t we
 really  c>$ little :at happ5$ to u4 ,! 
h\rs seem$ int]m9able4    ,at #c4cj     
,a4,m4 we at la/ approa*$ ,g village4   
,all ! h\ses 7 %ut  up1 ev]y?+ 0 z /ill 
z dea?1 until we got q close4 ,!n  dogs 
b>k$ furi\sly f e h\se1 & ! noise 0 e*o$
 f  m\nta9 to m\nta94 ,! wea!r _h       
some:at cle>$1 b n[h]e  c\ld ,i disc]n  
my t5ts4 ,we %\t$ & yell$ to r\se ! head
  village man1 & ev5tually ! sc>$ figure
 ( a ,%oka appe>$1  light$ by a r$ blaze
 f a tor* he c>ri$ 9 8 h&4 ,he 0        
jovial1 & mo/ anxi\s to be ( assi/ance4 
,al?\gh n absolutely1 ,i am1            
practically1 a teetotall]1 z ,i seldom  
require /imulants1 b on t p>ticul>      
occasion ,i w\ld h giv5  all ! money ,i 
possess$ to h a glass--or1 bett]1 a     
bottle--(  /\t6 ,b1 alas6 ! ne>e/ bottle
 ( /\t 0 a great _m days'  j\rney f !re4
 ,*kti1 ! native liquor1 0 ! only /uff  
procurable1 & ,i m ?an jump$ at ! (f] :5

 ! *iefta9  sugge/$ t we mu/ dr9k "s to 
be reviv$4    ,n[1 !re is no?+ a ,%oka  
admires m 9 a =eign] ?an  appreciation (
 ! national *kti--an appreciation !y    
seldom get1  = *kti is1 inde$1 ! vile/  
concoction a human m9d c conceive  or a 
human ?roat swall[4    ,:5 ! ,%oka & 8  
tor* disappe>$ we li/5$ f ! door )      
ev]-increas+ att5tion to noises ( dangl+
 keys be+ tri$1 "o  aft] ! o!r1 into a  
lock4 ,!n came ! snapp+ s\nd ( !  op5+  
padlock1 next ! loos+ ( ! iron *a9 :i*  
is ev] us$  9 bolt+ ,%oka doors4        
,reproa*ful noises f ! h\sehold1        
int]rupt$ 9 _! sleep1 & remon/rative    
cries ( female  relatives1 c\ld be he>d 
at int]vals2 !n a long sil5ce1 "s       
rattl+ ab\t1 & at la/ ! *iefta9         
reappe>$1 triumphantly  nurs+ a huge jug
 ( ! 8reviv]40    8,w y dr9k x "h or d[n
 9 y\r t5t80 he inquir$1 ) a  tw9kle 9 8
 eye4    8,9 ! t5t10 ,i repli$2 & we all
 w5t d[n to :]e my camp _h  be5 pit*$4  
,my m5 sprang out f all sides on he>+ my
 voice1  especially sev]al ( !m :o1 n   

expect+ me back t night1 _h  ?\ght fit  
to occupy my t5t4    ,9 a few mom5ts !  
camp 0 alight ) sev]al blaz+ fires1 !re 
be+ pl5ty ( fuel at ?is place1 & f !    
village a /r+ (  figures ) tor*es 7     
runn+ d[n1 br++ food1 m fuel1 milk1  &  
vegetables4 ,! natives ( ,g 7 inde$ mo/ 
?\ghtful &  polite4    ,i _h m>*$       
cont9u\sly = tw5ty-two & a half h\rs1   
cov]+  ov] =ty miles1 ! entire "t ov]   
mo/ difficult gr\nd & at  su* great     
elevation t :5 ,i sat d[n ^u my blankets
 ,i felt q  exhau/$4 ,nor did dev\r+--! 
^w eat+ is h>dly expressive             
en\gh--sev]al p\nds ( rice & meat &     
potatoes & plum-pudd+  & milk & *kti    
make me feel any bett]4 ,my appetite 0  
insatiable1 & no soon] 0 my head laid on
 ! pill[ ?an ,i 0  fa/ asleep4 ,oh1 :at 
a lovely s5sation to g to sleep :5 y are
 s  tir$6                  ,,*apt] ,,xx 
,we 7 already gett+ to l[] elevations--!
 village ( ,g be+  only #aj1egg feet4   
,we _h to ! we/ ( u ! great ,n&a ,devi1 
!  highe/ m\nta9 9 ! ,briti% ,empire1   

#be1ffj feet2 ?ree pyramidal  peaks1 )  
rock expos$ 9 v]tical /reaks "r up to ! 
summit4  ,! c5tral peak is ,n&a ,devi   
itself1 ! next highe/ peak be+  #bd1cgi 
feet1 accord+ to ,trigonometrical       
,survey measurem5ts4    ,!re are sev]al 
ext5sive glaci]s to ! ea/ wat]%$ ( ,n&a 
,devi1 mo/ly ext5d+ f we/ to ea/1 ) a   
slight t5d5cy  nor?w>ds1 b on ! we/]n   
side ( ! wat]%$ ,n&a ,devi is           
practically surr\nd$ by an imm5se glaci]
 ) num]\s  ramifications4    ,!re are a 
great _m leg5ds reg>d+ ?is impos+       
m\nta91 !  pr9cipal "o /at+ t on ! %ores
 ( a lake :i* is suppos$ to  exi/ on ! v
 summit ( ,n&a is ! abode & pres5t      
resid5ce (  ,vi%nu4 ,! natives /ate t   
smoke is (t5 se5 ris+ f !  summit1 :i*1 
!y say1 is caus$ by ! god's kit*54 ,"s  
consid]able di/ance bel[ ! summit1 z    
high z "o c possibly  climb1 a fe/ival  
is held e twelve ye>s1 b s difficult is 
!  asc5t t _m pilgrims p]i%1 & only v   
few c rea* !  elevat$ spot4 ,^? few are 
held 9 great respect by _!              

fell[-c\ntrym54    ,ne>] u ?an ,n&a     
,devi & also to our we/ 7 two o!r giants
  7#ba1ebj feet & #bb1ffj feet71 %[+    
*>act]i/ics v simil> to  ,n&a ,devi4 ,! 
=m] _h an imm5se glaci]1 ! ,naulphu1 on 
its  ea/]n side1 ) huge masses ( cle>   
ice ( respl5d5t beauty :5  ! sun %one on
 !m4 ,! ice t]races 7 fairly regul>1 mu*
 m  s ?an 9 mo/ o!r glaci]s ,i _h       
inspect$4 ,at ! bottom ( !  glaci]1 9 ! 
c5tre1 0 an imm5se wall ( ice1          
horse-%oe-%ap$1  a mo/ impressive sight 
z x /ood out 9 brilliant relief above ! 
d>k-br[n dbris ( ! t]m9al mora9e4 ,!    
,neo-lak-*an ,riv] has  its bir? f ?is  
glaci]4    ,!re 7 ?ree or f\r           
picturesque little ,%oka hamlets along !
  riv]--especially ne> ! spot :]e !     
,liss> ,riv]1 f$ by a numb]  ( glaci]s  
to ! nor?-we/1 meets ! ,dholi ,riv]1 :i*
 we h  foll[$ f ! ,nui ,glaci] to !     
nor?4 ,! village ( ,dukti 0  q          
attractive1 ) h\ses pa9t$ :ite1 slate   
ro(s1 & /rongly  built /ore-h\ses4    ,!
 trail mo/ly foll[$ ! c\rse ( ! ,dholi  

,riv]1 & 0 (t5  box$ 9 betwe5 high      
v]tical cliffs ( grey rock1 along :i* ! 
road 0 con/ruct$ on cr[b>s4 ,betwe5 !   
villages ( ,bahl+  7#aj1bcj feet7 &     
,nagl+ 7#ihgf feet--h4a47 0 ano!r small 
b  int]e/+ glaci] ( dirty grey ice mix$ 
) mud & dbris1 & a  c5tral & two side   
dunes4 ,a /ream rose f x & became a     
tribut>y ( ! ,dholi4    ,f ,nagl+ to    
,%obla !re is a fair road1 & f ,sela1   
ab\t  half-way betwe5 ! two above       
villages1 x is possible to get ov] !    
m\nta9s to ,kuti4 ,! way1 h[ev]1 is     
extremely bad1 & ov] a good  deal ( sn[4
 ,! j\rney occupies f ?ree to f\r days4 
,f ,nagl+ s\?w>d ! road 0 almo/ an      
id5tical replica ( !  ,n]pani--!        
wat]less trail--,i _h foll[$ on ! way   
out4 ,9 _m  places x 0 support$ on      
cr[b>s & we _h a drop "u u (  sev]al    
hundr$ feet4    ,z f> z ,g f ,nui !     
trail 0 on ! ea/ side ( ! ,dholi  ,riv]2
 f ,g x 0 on ! we/ side4 ,"s two miles f
 ,%obla "o  got a *>m+ bird's-eye view (
 ?is village1 ) ! riv] l a  ribbon (    

silv] w9d+ its way betwe5 high m\nta9s  
cov]$ )  luxuriant vegetation4 ,p]haps !
 beautiful deep gre5 ( ! trees  affect$ 
u all ! m because we _h be5 s long among
 b>r51  desolate1 dre>y l&scapes1 &     
among sn[ & ice2 s t x 0 a  regul> fea/ 
= our eyes to see "s signs ( vegetation 
aga94    ,! ,d>ma ,%okas1 l ^? ( ,bias1 
only inhabit ^! villages  dur+ ! summ]  
mon?s1 retir+ to w>m] regions f>!r s\?  
7ma9ly to ,dh>*ula7 = ! w9t]4 ,h5ce1 a  
great _m tempor>y  %$s c be se5 9 all _!
 villages1 :]e9 are /or$ _!  articles ( 
furniture1 mats1 & clo?+1 :i* !y d n    
require  :5 busy trad+ 9 ! summ] mon?s4 
,9 "s spots ! m\nta9 side  0 simply     
dott$ ) ^! tempor>y /ore-h\ses4    ,z we
 7 go+ t[>ds ,khela1 :]e we %\ld        
complete ! circle (  our j\rney & meet  
ano!r cont+5t ( my m5 :o _h proce$$  !re
 direct f ,nepal1 we _h no fur!r        
adv5tures wor? m5tion+1  except "o4     
,we came to a /range cave1 only a few   
y>ds deep & "s #cj feet high1  9 ! side 
( a hill4 ,! natives _h told me t no    

animal c\ld  ent] x )\t dy+1 &1 9 fact1 
:5 we peep$ into x we saw a  numb] (    
skeletons ( dogs1 o!r small mammals1 &  
birds4 ,on  /oop+ d[n1 "o ( my m5 & ,i 7
 imm$iately seiz$ )  gidd9ess & a fa9t+ 
s5sation1 & _h we n be5 quick en\gh 9   
jump+ out into ! op5 air we might h     
possibly collaps$1 ow+  to ! noxi\s     
gases :i* emanat$ f ! gr\nd 9 ! cave4 ,a
  peculi> sulphur\s od\r 0 noticeable1  
ev5 "s little di/ance  f ! cave4 ,x is 9
 its effects v mu* l ! 8,grotta dei     
,cani0 ( ,naples1 only ?is "o seem$ m   
deadly4 ,! gases seem to  hang l[ ^u !  
gr\nd1 n m ?an ab\t #c or #c feet1      
al?\gh on  ent]+ ! cave "o felt at once 
a /ifl+ s5sation1 ev5 :5  /&+ upright4  
,we two :o _h /oop$ suff]$ f a sev]e    
heada*e = "s h\rs4    ,be=e we leave !  
,d>ma di/rict1 a ^w on ! hi/ory ( !     
natives may be ( int]e/4 ,! ,d>ma ,%okas
 are 9 _m ways--& 9  facial appe>ance--v
 diff]5t f ! ,%okas ( ,*audas & ,bias1  
&1 al?\gh _! orig9 is und\bt$ly         
,mongolian f ,tibet1 _!  traditions v>y 

v consid]ably f ^? ( ! o!r ,%okas4      
,accord+ to "s au?orities ! ,d>ma ,%okas
 are ! desc5dants ( a  horde ( ,mughals 
:o 7 endeav\r+ to take possession (     
,kumaon  dur+ ! "t t ,timur 0 occupy+ a 
portion ( t c\ntry4  ,?is horde1 :i* is 
suppos$ to h ent]$ ,kumaon f ! pla9s  & 
n ov] ! m\nta9s1 0 ev5tually r$uc$ to v 
small  numb]s1 & driv5 to ! m\nta9s1 :]e
 !y f9ally settl$1  practically         
undi/urb$1 9 ! ,d>ma ,valley4 ,d>ma1 l !
 o!r  ,%oka di/ricts 7,bias & ,*audas71 
=m]ly belong$ to ,tibet1 & x  0 n till !
 ,gorkhali adm9i/ration t ,d>ma1 ) ,bias
 &  ,*audas1 0 annex$ to ,kumaon4       
,ev5 n[1 z we h already se51 ! ,tibetans
 ex]cise a s]i\s  influ5ce ^u ^?        
natives1 ! ,%okas ( all ^! di/ricts1    
h[ev] will+ to be fai?ful & loyal to u1 
hav+ nev] receiv$  protection nor !     
meagre/ ju/ice f ! ,briti% ,gov]nm5t4   
,p]sonally1 ,i d n q %>e ! op9ion t !   
,d>ma ,%okas came  f ! pla9s or f ,tibet
 by way ( ! pla9s4 ,!y resemble q       
closely ! ,kam-p> or ,tibetans f ,kam1 )

 :om !y are to ?is  day 9 con/ant       
communication4 ,9 fact1 x is *iefly ) ! 
,kam-p>  tribe & ,gyanema t ! ,d>ma     
,%okas d all _! trad+4 ,! m  massive    
features & /rong] facial *>act]i/ics ( !
 ,d>ma  ,%okas h be5 acquir$1 ,i ?9k1 m 
?r\gh _! frequ5t  int]c\rses ) ,jumlis &
 o!r tribes ( ,we/]n ,nepal1 :i* gives  
!m a wild] appe>ance ?an ! m purely     
,mongolian /olid types1  su* z ! ,bias  
,%okas4    ,9 _m ways ! ,d>ma ,%okas d n
 possess ! ref9$ &  g5tlemanly feel+s s 
/rik+ly common among ,bias ,%okas1 nor  
are  !y q s hone/ & reliable4 ,b !y1    
too1 possess good he>ts1  are some:at   
impetu\s & excitable1 & occasionally    
addict$ to  murd]4                      
,,*apt] ,,xxi      ,f ,khela on !       
,nepalese b\nd>y1 :]e ,i f\nd my m5 &   
pony--!  latt] _h be5 safely tak5 back  
across ! dang]\s ,n]pani road--,i       
proce$$ 9 all ha/e to ,almora4 ,i v>i$  
my j\rney slightly1  travell+ by way (  
,?al4    ,! ro> ( ,briti% (ficials _h   
be5 v great :ile ,i 0 di/ant1  s ,i     

halt$ sev]al days bo? 9 ,almora &       
,na9i-,tal1 ! summ] seat  ( ! ,prov9cial
 ,gov]nm5t1 9 ord] to give !m           
opportunity (  c>ry+ out "s ( _! ?reats4
 ,no?+ happ5$4    ,by way ( ,bombay ,i  
return$ to ,engl&1 & f !re ,i sail$     
directly to ,am]ica1 on my way to !     
,*9ese ,w>4    ,p]haps ! j\rney1 requir+
 z x did m ?an ord9>y endurance1  did m 
to /r5g!n my =m] !ories ab\t travell+   
att5dants  ?an any j\rney ,i _h tak5    
be=e4 ,i inv>iably f\nd t ?\ghtful  &   
tactful k9dness ) my m5 & ) /rang]s     
always paid bett]  ?an h>% treatm5t4 ,x 
is all v well = ! lead] ( an  exp$ition 
n to m9d ?is1 & n to feel t1 &1 if      
any?+1  r enjoy ! fun ( r\gh+ x4 ,!     
int]e/ :i* he--if ( ev5  mod]ate        
intellig5ce--mu/ take 9 ! /udy ( !      
c\ntry1 !  natives1 record+ 8 sci5tific 
obs]vations1 survey+1  photograph+1     
writ+ up 8 notes1 etc41 leave him b     
little "t to  worry ov] climatic        
conditions or ! cook+4 ,b n s ) !       
native foll[]s1 :o aft] _! day's "w is  

f9i%$--& pretty  t$i\s _! day's "w is--h
 no?+ to employ _! m9ds except  ! ?\ght 
t ano!r day ( h>d%ip is to foll[4 ,! m9d
 preys a  good deal ^u ! entire sy/em1 &
 :5 to m5tal depression y add  e        
possible bodily inconv5i5ce y c ?9k (1 x
 is n  unnatural t ! m5 are incl9$ to   
break d[n4    ,fir/ ( all1 naturally1 ,i
 took great c>e to h my m5 well f$ &    
clo!d1 !n ! next & mo/ important 0 to   
prev5t !m gett+  depress$ :5 great      
difficulties 7 fac+ !m4 ,_m ev5+s1 :5   
we did n make night m>*es1 ,i us$ to    
collect my m5 r\nd my t5t  & ent]ta9$ !m
 ) long descriptions ( ?+s 9 ,europe !y 
_h nev] se51 su* z ocean /eam]s1        
8sky-scrap]s10 railways1  electric      
light1 etc4    ,i am r sorry t1 ?is     
publication be+ illu/rat$ entirely by   
draw+s done by h&1 ,i am n able to give 
an int]e/+ photograph  ( a gr\p ( my    
foll[]s :om ,i snap%ott$ z ,i 0 describ+
 to  !m ! wond]s ( civilisation4 ,!     
expressions ( wond]m5t &  ke5 int]e/ 7 q
 int5se1 & %[ cle>ly 9 ! photograph4    

,! m5 always look$ = ^! nightly         
lectures1 & no matt] h[  tir$ !y 7 !y   
g5]ally collect$ r\nd = me to tell !m   
m4 ,?is1 ,i ?9k1 help$ m to keep my m5 9
 good spirits--9 v  exasp]at+           
circum/ances--?an any?+ ,i c\ld ?9k (4  
,e topic  w\ld lead to endless          
discussions among !m1 & mo/ amus+       
controv]sies1 :i* enliv5$ _! spirits1   
anyh[ till ! next  lecture4    ,natives 
always take ! ke5e/ int]e/ 9 fire>ms &  
any?+  connect$ ) !m4 ,also 9           
telescopes1 :i* !y love4 ,i happ5$ to   
possess a little cam]a :i* 0 n unlike a 
spy-glass4 ,i _h giv5  x to "o ( my m5  
to c>ry--by ! way1 to ! fell[ :o sav$ my
  life on ! top ( ,lumpa ,m\nta94 ,he   
c\ld n get x out ( 8 head  t x 0 a      
glass1 & once or twice ,i caught him    
try+ to survey  ! l&scape ) x4    ,"o   
ev5+1 on my way d[n to ,almora1 we _h   
rea*$ camp1 & z ,i  0 sitt+ outside my  
t5t ,i p]ceiv$ ! fell[ walk+ away ) my  
cam]a t[>ds a clu/] ( trees "s way (f on
 ! top ( a hillock4  ,i wat*$ him ) !   

corn] ( my eye4 ,:5 he got !re he climb$
  "r to ! top ( ! highe/ tree1 & z he   
clung ) 8 fold$  legs to ! bran*1 sw++  
to & fro 9 ! w9d1 he unslung !  cam]a & 
pull$ x out ( its case4 ,next1 z ,i     
expect$1 he br\ght  x up to 8 eyes &    
proce$$ to scan ! l&scape4 ,unhappily = 
! cam]a1 ! bran*1 hav+ swung r too f>   
beyond its limit (  ela/icity1 gave way1
 & d[n came ! man & preci\s in/rum5t1   
b\nd+ f bran* to bran* until !y bump$ ) 
"s might ^u  ! solid gr\nd--! man1 (    
c\rse1 on ! top ( ! cam]a4 ,!  cam]a he 
pick$ up 9 fragm5ts1 besides de/roy+    
eighte5 excell5t  negatives x conta9$4  
8,:at on e>? did y d t =80 ,i ask$ ( !  
,%oka4    8,sahib10 he said1 rubb+ 8 a*+
 side1 8,i h long$ = _m a  day to look  
?r\gh ! durb92 we ,%okas are to leave y 
to-morr[1  & ,i ?\ght ,i w\ld h no o!r  
opportunity4 ,y c kill me1  sahib1      
because ,i des]ve x60    ,:5 ,i ?\ght ( 
! deep debt ( gratitude ,i ow$ ?is man1 
,i  pref]r$ to sp>e him4 ,i h&$ him a   
real & p[]ful telescope1  prop]ly       

focuss$1 = him to h ! treat he wi%$4 ,:5
 he gaz$  ?r\gh x & saw ! di/ant sn[s & 
a village "s miles (f  appe> q close1 8 
excitem5t _h no b\nds1 & :5 he          
recognis$ p com+ out ( ! h\ses 8        
amazem5t 0 v  curi\s to wat*4    ,we _h 
_m1 _m amus+ incid5ts ( ?is k9d1 & !y   
s]v$ to  pass away ! "t4    ,i _c end   
?is book )\t pay+ a tribute to !        
fai?fulness1  endurance1 & brav]y ( all 
my m54 ,a m devot$ lot ( fell[s  c\ld   
n[h]e h be5 procur$4 ,i nev] _h !       
slighte/ tr\ble 9  any way ) !m ev51 z  
we h se51 "u mo/ try+  circum/ances4 ,! 
"w dem&$ ( !m 0 ( ! mo/ sev]e nature1  &
 ! con/ant /ra9 & bodily suff]+s s      
great1 t ,i r  d\bt :e!r ,i "k ( any    
:ite man :o c\ld h /ood x--n z  !y did1 
b ev5 half z well4 ,z x 01 aft] ! /ra9 0
  ov]--b n be=e--! poor fell[s all broke
 d[n1 except "o4 ,mo/  ( !m 7 pitiably  
footsore & exhau/$1 & only _! /rong  w  
c>ri$ !m ?r\gh4 ,! only exception 0 ! "y
 boy1 frail  & delicate1 almo/          
girli%-look+--b ) a det]m9$ little      

face--to :om ,i h ref]r$ at ! beg9n+ ( !
 book4 ,z  /ipulat$ :5 ,i employ$ him1  
he always c>ri$ ! heavie/ load1  & :5   
physically /rong] m5 lay d[n tir$ at !  
end ( a m>*1  he 0 ev] ready to run ab\t
 to collect fuel1 took endless pleasure 
9 help+ to pit* ! t5ts1 & assi/ 9 !     
cook+4 ,! endurance  & c\rage ( t little
 fell[ 7 q m>vell\s4 ,he did m  "w ?an  
two m5 tak5 toge!r1 & at ! end ( !      
j\rney he 0  ! only "o :o return$ 9     
excell5t condition1 & z fre% z          
possible4    ,s t1 rememb]1 x is n      
always ! big1 bulky1 muscul> fell[s  :o 
c /& m h>d%ips1--! /ronge/ & mo/ muscul>
 fell[ ,i  _h 0 ! only "o :o succumb$2  
on ! contr>y1 d[n to a c]ta9  limit1 = v
 h>d "w1 ! small] ! m5 y employ ! bett]4
  ,wir9ess1 suppl5ess1 agility--&       
intellig5ce--are ess5tial1 &  always to 
be pref]r$ to brutal1 uncontrollable    
/r5g?2 b1 above  all1 use y\r judgm5t1 &
 nev] take ) y on exp$itions ( ?is  sort
 a man :o does n possess a /rong w4