,,the ,country ,housewife ,,and ,,lady',s ,,director ,,in ,,the ,management of a ,house1 and the ,delights and ,profits of a ,farm4 ,,containing ,instructions for managing the ,brew-,house1 and ,malt-,liquors in the ,cellar2 the making of ,wines of all sorts ,directions for the ,dairy1 in the ,improvement of ,butter and ,cheese upon the worst of ,soils2 the feeding and making of ,brawn2 the ordering of ,fish1 ,fowl1 ,herbs1 ,roots1 and all other useful ,branches belonging to a ,country ,seat1 in the most elegant manner for the ,table4 ,practical ,observations concerning ,distilling2 with the best ,method of making ,ketchup1 and many other curious and durable ,sauces4 ,the whole distributed in their proper ,months1 from the ,beginning to the ,end of the ,year4 ,with particular ,remarks relating to the ,drying or ,kilning of ,saffron4 ,by ,r4 ,,bradley1 ,professor of ,botany in the ,university of ,cambridge2 and ,f4,r4,s4 ,the ,sixth ,edition ,with ,additions4 99 99 99 99 99 ,to ,the ,,lady ,,wager1 ,consort to the ,right ,honourable ,sir ,,charles ,,wager1 ,one of the ,lords ,commissioners of the ,admiralty1 ,,and ,one of ,his ,majesty's ,most ,honourable ,,privy-,,council2 ,this ,book is most humbly ,dedicated1 by ,her ,ladyship's most ,obedient1 and most ,humble ,servant1 ,r4 ,,bradley4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,an ,,index ,,to ,,the ,,first ,,part4 ,a4 ,asparagus1 preserv'd4 ,ditto ,drest the ,dutch way4 ,ditto with ,cream4 ,artichoakes1 to dry4 ,ditto preserv'd4 ,ditto pickled4 ,ditto fryed4 ,ditto in ,suckers1 to eat raw4 ,apricot ,wine4 ,alamode ,beef4 ,b4 ,brandy1 ,laurel4 ,birch-,wine4 ,brewing4 ,beef ,cake-,soup4 ,ditto to ,pot like ,venison4 ,beef1 to ,collar4 ,brocoli1 to boil4 ,butter1 good in ,suffolk4 ,buckingham-,cheese1 to make4 ,butter1 why good or bad4 ,ditto in general4 ,butter1 what ,milk is good4 ,ditto made over the ,fire4 ,ditto wash'd4 ,ditto churn'd in ,summer4 ,ditto churn'd in ,winter4 ,beans1 preserv'd1 the ,winter4 ,berberries1 to pickle4 ,beet-,roots1 red1 to pickle4 ,ditto fryed4 ,boar's-,head imitated4 ,brawn1 to ,collar4 ,boar1 when to be put up for ,brawn4 ,c4 ,capon1 to dress4 ,carps1 to stew4 ,cellars1 which are best4 ,cowslip-,wine4 ,cheese1 spoiled4 ,ditto what concerns its ,goodness4 ,ditto why bad in ,suffolk4 ,ditto ,good from one sort of ,cattle4 ,ditto preserv'd in ,oil4 ,ditto ,marygold4 ,ditto ,sage4 ,ditto ,sage in figures4 ,ditto ,cheshire4 ,ditto ,cheshire with ,sack4 ,ditto ,gloucestershire4 ,cheese1 ,cream4 ,ditto ,why the ,aversion to it4 ,churns1 the ,sorts4 ,clove-,gilly-,flower ,syrup4 ,cucumbers1 to pickle4 ,codlings1 to pickle1 green4 ,ditto to pickle ,mango4 ,cherry-,brandy4 ,cherry-,beer4 ,cherry-,cordial4 ,cherries distill'd4 ,cherry1 ,cornelian1 in ,brandy4 ,calf's ,feet ,jelly4 ,cockles1 pickled4 ,capons1 to set upon ,eggs4 ,d4 ,dairy1 how to build4 ,different ,sorts of ,goosberries4 ,different ,sorts of ,currans4 ,ducks1 wild1 to roast4 ,ducks1 wild1 hash'd4 ,e4 ,eels1 their time of ,breeding4 ,ditto in plenty4 ,eggs1 to prepare six ways4 ,eels1 to clear from ,mud4 ,ditto to roast4 ,ditto to ,pitchcot4 ,ditto to ,collar4 ,elder-,flowers1 to dry4 ,elder ,vinegar4 ,elder-,wine1 red4 ,ditto white4 ,english-,wine4 ,f4 ,fowls and ,birds1 the ,difference4 ,fowl1 to dress4 ,ditto to farce4 ,fricassee of ,chickens1 brown4 ,ditto white4 ,fish ,gravey for ,soups4 ,flounders1 pickled4 ,frontiniac-,wine imitated4 ,fruits preserv'd for ,tarts4 ,florence-,wine imitated4 ,frontiniac-,wine to make4 ,fowls1 the ,sorts4 ,fish1 to boil firm4 ,fish boiled1 the ,sauce4 ,g4 ,geese1 when to buy4 ,ditto to fat4 ,ditto to roast4 ,ditto how to kill4 ,grapes1 ripe early4 ,grape-,wine4 ,h4 ,herb-,soup1 the ,foundation4 ,hops4 ,hare1 to pot4 ,herbs1 to dry4 ,hare coursed1 how to keep4 ,ditto hunted1 to dress4 ,ditto the ,pudding for it4 ,ditto to roast4 ,hare1 to stew4 ,hung-,beef4 ,herbs infused in ,spirits4 ,l4 ,larks1 to dress4 ,m4 ,malt1 which is good4 ,ditto ,liquor1 to bottle4 ,mountain-,wine1 to imitate4 ,milk1 to be examin'd4 ,mace in ,rennet4 ,mead1 small1 to make4 ,metheglin or strong ,mead4 ,mushrooms4 ,mushroom-,gravey4 ,ditto ,ketchup4 ,mushrooms1 stew'd4 ,ditto broiled4 ,ditto fry'd4 ,mushrooms1 a ,foundation for ,sauce4 ,mushrooms1 to powder4 ,ditto to pickle4 ,melons1 green1 to pickle1 like ,mango4 ,mussels1 scallop'd4 ,ditto fryed4 ,ditto pickled4 ,morillas1 to dress4 ,morillas1 to dry4 ,ditto in ,ragoust4 ,ditto to fry4 ,o4 ,orange-,flower ,cordial4 ,onions1 pickled4 ,oysters1 from ,colchester4 ,oysters1 to stew4 ,orange-,wine4 ,oysters1 in ,scallop ,shells4 ,oysters1 roasted4 ,oysters1 pickled4 ,onion-,soup4 ,p4 ,pidgeon1 wild4 ,ditto tame1 the ,sorts4 ,ditto ,carrier1 its use4 ,ditto broiled4 ,ditto in ,paste or ,dumplings4 ,ditto stew'd4 ,portmanteau ,pottage4 ,pike1 to roast4 ,ditto to bake4 ,pease1 preserved all the ,year4 ,pickled ,walnuts4 ,ditto ,cucumbers4 ,ditto for ,mangoes4 ,ditto ,kidney-,beans4 ,ditto ,nasturtium-,seeds4 ,partridges stew'd with ,sallery4 ,ditto roasted4 ,pheasants1 their ,sauces4 ,ditto to dress4 ,potatoes4 ,perch1 with ,mushrooms4 ,q4 ,quince-,wine4 ,r4 ,rennet1 how made in ,essex4 ,ditto another way4 ,rennet-,bags1 which are good4 ,rennet-,bags1 how to make them good4 ,rennet with ,spice4 ,red ,surfeit-,water4 ,rosa ,solis1 to distil4 ,raspberry-,wine4 ,red ,goosberry-,wine4 ,rabbit1 roasted with a ,pudding4 ,s4 ,sausages of ,fish4 ,sausages1 of ,pork4 ,soup of ,herbs4 ,shrub1 to make4 ,sauce ,royal1 or ,travelling-,sauce4 ,spinach1 stew'd4 ,sallads1 to dress4 ,sage-,wine4 ,skerrets1 to dress4 ,salsify1 to dress4 ,scorzonera1 to dress4 ,saffron1 to cure4 ,snipes1 to roast4 ,soup1 a ,l',hyvrogne4 ,t4 ,tokay-,wine1 to imitate4 ,travelling-,sauce4 ,tench1 which is best4 ,trout in ,season4 ,trouts1 to pot4 ,tragopogon1 to dress4 ,truffles1 to broil4 ,truffles1 to stew4 ,truffles1 ragou'd4 ,turkey1 to dress4 ,u4 ,veal-,glue4 ,visney4 ,venison1 and its ,sauces4 ,w4 ,water-,soochy4 ,wines1 boiled4 ,wines1 fermented4 ,wines1 to help1 by ,sugar4 ,wines1 of ,st4 ,helena1 reform'd4 ,woodcocks1 to roast4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,to ,,the ,,ladies ,,of ,,great ,,britain1 c4 ,the ,reason which induces me to address the following ,piece to the ,fair ,sex1 is1 because the principal ,matters contained in it are within the ,liberty of their ,province4 ,the ,art of ,oeconomy is divided1 as ,xenophon tells us1 between the ,men and the ,women2 the ,men have the most dangerous and laborious ,share of it in the ,fields1 and without doors1 and the ,women have the ,care and ,management of every ,business within doors1 and to see after the good ordering of whatever is belonging to the ,house4 ,and this1 ,i conceive1 is no less the ,practice of these ,days1 than it was in the time of that great ,philosopher2 therefore it may seem necessary that ,i make some ,apology for the ,work ,i now publish1 which1 for the most part1 falls within the ,ladies ,jurisdiction3 but ,i hope ,i am the more excusable1 as my ,design is rather to assist1 than to direct4 ,i may call myself rather their ,amanuensis1 than their ,instructor2 for the ,receipts which ,i imagine will give the greatest ,lustre or ,ornament to the following ,treatise1 are such as are practised by some of the most ingenious ,ladies1 who had ,good-nature enough to admit of a ,transcription of them for publick ,benefit2 and to do them justice1 ,i must acknowledge that every one who has try'd them1 allow them to excel in their way4 ,the other ,receipts are such as ,i have collected in my ,travels1 as well through ,england1 as in foreign ,countries1 and are such as ,i was prompted to enter into my ,list1 as well for their ,curiosity as for their extraordinary ,goodness4 ,i could have launched much further in this ,attempt1 but that ,i confined myself to publish only such as were necessary for the ,use of a ,farm2 or1 in other terms1 for the good ordering of every thing which is the ,produce of a ,farm and ,garden3 ,and especially ,i am induced to publish a ,tract of this nature for two ,reasons1 which ,i think carry some sway with them4 ,the first is1 that ,i find many useful things about ,farms1 and in ,gardens1 whose ,goodness is so little known1 or understood1 that they are seldom reckon'd of any account1 and in most places are looked upon as ,incumbrances2 such as ,mushrooms1 ,lupines1 ,brocoly1 ,morilles1 ,truffles ,skirrets1 ,scorzonera1 ,salsifie1 ,colerape1 ,charddones1 ,boorencole1 and many other such like things1 which are excellent in their kind1 when they are well dress'd1 and admired by the greatest ,epicures4 ,the other ,reason which has induced me to publish this ,piece1 is1 the ,difficulties ,i have undergone in my ,travels1 when ,i have met with good ,provisions1 in many ,places in ,england1 which have been murder'd in the dressing4 ,i could mention many ,instances as bad as the common ,story of ,bacon and ,eggs strewed with brown ,sugar3 ,but as this was done through ,ignorance1 as the ,story relates1 ,i hope ,i need make no further ,apology1 or have occasion to give any other ,reason for making this ,treatise publick1 but that it may improve the ,ignorant1 and remind the ,learned how and when to make the best of every thing3 which may be a means of providing every one with a tolerable ,entertainment founded upon ,practice and ,fashion2 which can never fail of ,followers1 and of making us fare much better upon the ,roads in the ,country than we were used to do4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,country ,lady's ,,director 99 99 99 99 99 ,,january ,i ,shall in this ,month take particular notice of the ,pigeon1 whose ,characteristicks are chiefly to have short ,legs1 and their ,feet of a reddish ,colour1 to have long ,wings1 and to be quick of ,flight2 in which the spreading of their ,tail-,feathers greatly contribute1 as well as to guide them in the ,air4 ,they by for the most part two ,eggs for one sitting1 and so more2 but breed often in the ,year4 ,when ,pigeons are once paired1 it is observed they are very constant to one another1 and assist each other in the ,incubation or ,sitting on the ,eggs1 as well as in bringing up and feeding the young ones2 and moreover it is remarkable1 that a ,pigeon has no ,gall-,bladder4 ,the sorts are1 first1 the blue wild ,pigeon1 which is the most frequent in ,dove-,cotes1 but is not very large1 nor disposed to breed so early in the ,spring as some others3 they are1 however1 a hardy kind1 and will thrive any where1 if there is plenty of ,water2 for tho' they are not of a watery ,race1 yet it is observable1 that they covet to be where it is1 and that they feed frequently upon the ,banks of ,rivers and ,ponds4 ,i have known that where there were two ,dove-,cotes1 that stood within a ,mile of one another1 and one of them was near a ,river1 and the other remote from it1 the ,pigeons of the ,house distant from the ,water1 left their ,habitation to reside in that next the ,river1 even tho' they had an ,allowance of good ,feed at home4 ,among the tame ,pigeons1 those which the ,italians call'd ,tronfo1 and we ,runts1 are the largest2 but these may be again distinguish'd under the ,characters of greater and smaller3 those which are commonly call'd the ,spanish ,runts1 are very much esteem'd1 being the largest sort of ,pigeon1 and are sluggish1 and more slow of flight1 than the smaller sort of ,runts2 but the smaller ,runts are better ,breeders1 and quick of flight1 which is to be esteem'd2 because if they were to seek their ,food far1 they can range much more ,ground1 or return home much quicker on occasion of stormy or wet ,weather4 ,as for the ,colours of their ,feathers1 they are uncertain1 so that one cannot judge of the sort by them4 ,the next1 which makes the largest ,figure1 but is not in reality the largest ,bird1 is the ,cropper2 it is so named1 because they usually do1 by attracting the ,air1 blow up their ,crops to an extraordinary bigness1 even so sometimes as to be as large as their ,bodies4 ,this sort is esteemed the better1 as it can swell its ,crop to the largest ,size4 ,the ,bodies of this sort are about the bigness of the smaller ,runt1 but somewhat more slender4 ,this sort1 like the former1 is of various ,colours in the ,feathers4 ,the next are those ,pigeons call'd ,shakers1 and are said to be of two sorts1 viz4 the broad-tail'd ,shaker1 and the narrow-tail'd ,shaker3 ,the reason which is assign'd for calling them ,shakers1 is1 because they are almost constant in wagging their ,heads and ,necks up and down2 and the ,distinction made between the broad and narrow-tail'd ,shaker1 is1 because the broad tail'd sort abounds with ,tail-,feathers1 about twenty-six in number1 as ,mr4 ,ray observes1 and the narrow-tail'd ,shakers have fewer in number4 ,these1 when they walk1 carry their ,tail-,feathers erect1 and spread abroad like a ,turkey-,cock4 ,they likewise have diversity of ,feathers4 ,the next ,i shall take notice of1 are the ,jacobines1 or ,cappers3 ,these are called ,cappers from certain ,feathers which turn up about the back part of the ,head4 ,there are of these that are rough-footed3 these are short-bill'd1 the ,iris of their ,eye of a ,pearl ,colour1 and the ,head is commonly white4 ,the next is the ,turbit1 commonly so call'd1 but what is the occasion of the ,name1 is not known1 unless ,turbit1 or ,turbeck1 is a ,corruption of the ,word ,cortbeck1 or ,cortbeke1 which is the ,name the ,hollanders give them1 and seems to be derived from the ,french1 where ,court-bec would signify a short ,bill1 which this ,pigeon is remarkable for2 the ,head is flat1 and the ,feathers on the ,breast spread both ways4 ,these are about the bigness of the ,jacobines4 ,the ,carrier ,pigeon is the next ,i shall take notice of2 it is so call'd from the ,use which is sometimes made of them in carrying of ,letters to and fro3 ,it is very sure that they are nimble ,messengers1 for by experience it is found1 that one of these ,pigeons will fly three ,miles in a ,minute1 or from ,st4 ,albans to ,london in seven ,minutes1 which has been try'd2 and ,i am inform'd1 that they have been sent of a much longer ,message3 however1 they might certainly be made very useful in ,dispatches1 which required speed1 if we were to train them regularly between one ,house and another4 ,we have an account of them passing and repassing with ,advices between ,hirtius and ,brutus1 at the ,siege of ,modena1 who had1 by laying ,meat for them in some high ,places1 instructed their ,pigeons to fly from place to place for their ,meat1 having before kept them hungry1 and shut up in a dark ,place4 ,these are about the size of common ,pigeons1 and of a dark blue or blackish ,colour1 which is one way of distinguishing them from other sorts3 they are also remarkable for having their ,eyes compass'd about with a broad ,circle of naked spungy ,skin1 and for having the upper ,chap of their ,beak cover'd more than half from the ,head with a double ,crust of the like naked fungous ,body4 ,the ,bill1 or ,beak1 is moderately long1 and black4 ,these ,birds are of that ,nature1 that tho' they are carried many ,miles from the place where they were bred1 or brought up1 or have themselves hatch'd1 or bred up any young ones1 they will immediately return home as soon as we let them fly4 ,perhaps this may1 in some measure1 depend upon the ,affection the ,male or ,female bear to one another4 ,when they are to be used as ,carriers1 two ,friends must agree to keep them1 one in ,london1 and the other at ,guilford1 or elsewhere2 the ,person that lives at ,guilford must take two or three ,cocks or ,hens that were bred at his ,friend's at ,london1 and the other two or three that were bred at ,guilford2 when the ,person at ,london has occasion to send an ,express1 he must roll up a little piece of ,paper1 and tie it gently with a small ,string pass'd thro'it about the ,pigeon's ,neck4 ,but it must be observ'd before1 that the ,pigeons you design to send with a ,message1 be kept pretty much in the dark1 and without ,meat1 for eight or ten ,hours before you turn them out1 and they will then rise and turn round till they have found their way1 and continue their ,flight till they have got home4 ,with two or three of these ,pigeon's on each side1 a ,correspondence might be carried on in a very expeditious manner1 especially in ,matters of ,curiosity1 or those things which tend to publick ,good4 ,i know a ,gentleman that has set out on a ,journey early in the ,morning1 where it was judged to be dangerous travelling1 that has taken one of this sort of ,pigeons in his ,pocket1 and at his ,journey's ,end1 which he tells me was near thirty ,miles distant from his ,house1 has turn'd off the ,pigeon1 and it has been at its feeding ,place in nine or ten ,minutes1 with an ,account of his safety4 ,in ,turkey it is very customary for these ,pigeons to be taken on board a ,ship that sails1 by the ,captain1 and if any thing extraordinary happens within the distance of six or eight ,leagues1 the ,pigeon is sent back with ,advice1 which sometimes may be a means of saving a ,ship from being taken by the ,pyrates1 or other ,enemies1 and expedite ,trade4 ,the ,barbary ,pigeon1 or ,barb1 is another sort1 whose ,bill is like that of the ,turbit1 i4e4 short and thick1 and a broad and naked ,circle of a spungy white ,substance round about the ,eye1 like that in the ,carrier ,pigeon4 ,the ,iris of the ,eye is white1 if the ,feathers of the ,pigeon are inclining to a darkish ,colour2 but is red1 if the ,feathers are white1 as we find in other white ,birds4 ,smiters are another sort of ,pigeon1 suppos'd to be the same that the ,hollanders call ,draijers4 ,this sort shake their ,wings as they fly1 and rise commonly in a circular manner in their flight2 the ,males for the most part rising higher than the ,females1 and frequently falling and flapping them with their ,wings1 which produces a noise that one may hear a great way2 from whence it happens that their ,quill-,feathers are commonly broken or shatter'd4 ,these are almost like the ,pigeon call'd the ,tumbler2 the difference chiefly is1 that the ,tumbler is something smaller1 and in its flight will turn itself backward over its ,head4 ,the diversity of colours in the ,feathers makes no difference4 ,the ,helmet is another kind of ,pigeon distinguish'd from the others1 because it has the ,head1 the ,quill-,feathers1 and the ,tail-,feathers always of one colour3 ,sometimes black1 sometimes white1 or red1 or blue1 or yellow2 but the other ,feathers of the ,body are of a different colour4 ,the next ,pigeon ,i shall take notice of1 is that which is call'd the light ,horseman2 this is supposed to be a cross strain between a ,cock ,cropper and a ,hen of the ,carrier ,breed1 because they seem to partake of both1 as appears from the exerescent ,flesh on their ,bills1 and the swelling of their ,crops2 but ,i am not determin'd concerning that point1 nor can give any good ,judgment about it1 till ,i have seen whether the ,cropper be the ,male or ,female1 upon which depends a ,debate in ,natural ,philosophy1 which has not been yet decided2 this sort however is reckon'd the best ,breeder1 and are not inclin'd to leave the place of their ,birth1 or the ,house where they have been accustom'd4 ,the ,bastard-bill ,pigeon is another sort1 which is somewhat bigger than the ,barbary ,pigeon2 they have short ,bills1 and are generally said to have red ,eyes1 but ,i suppose those colour'd ,eyes are belonging only to those which have white ,feathers4 ,there is also a ,pigeon call'd the ,turner1 which is said to have a ,tuft of ,feathers hanging backward on the ,head1 which parts1 as ,mr4 ,ray says1 like a ,horse's ,main4 ,there is a smaller sort than the former call'd the ,finikin1 but in other respects like the former4 ,there is a sort of ,pigeon call'd the ,spot1 suppos'd1 and with good ,judgment1 to take its ,name from the ,spot on its ,forehead just above its ,bill1 and the ,feathers of its ,tail always of the same colour with the ,spots1 and all the other ,feathers are white4 ,lastly1 ,i shall take notice of the ,pigeon call'd the ,mawmet1 or ,mahomet1 supposed to be brought from ,turkey2 however1 it is singular for its large black ,eyes2 the other parts are like those of the ,barbary ,pigeon4 ,these are the sorts of ,pigeons generally known1 for the large ,italian ,pigeons are only the larger ,runts2 and ,i am of opinion1 that the diversity of colours in ,pigeons only proceeds from the diversity of kinds of ,pigeons1 that couple with one another2 for ,i have known ,swine that have been whole-footed1 that have coupled with those that were clovenfooted1 and the ,pigs that were produced1 were partaking of whole and cloven ,hoofs1 some one1 some two cloven ,hoofs1 and the rest whole ,hoofs4 ,concerning the ,life of a ,pigeon1 ,aristotle says1 that a ,pigeon will live forty ,years1 but ,albertus finishes the ,life of a ,pigeon at twenty ,years2 however1 ,aldrovandus tells us of a ,pigeon1 which continued alive two and twenty ,years1 and bred all that time except the last six ,months1 during which space it had lost its ,mate1 and lived in ,widowhood4 ,there is a remarkable ,particular mention'd by ,aldrovandus relating to the ,pigeon1 which is1 that the young ,pigeons always bill the ,hens as often as they tread them1 but the elder ,pigeons only bill the ,hens the first time before coupling4 ,pliny and ,athenaeus1 from ,aristotle1 tell us1 that it is peculiar to ,pigeons not to hold up their ,heads when they drink as other ,birds and ,fowls do1 but to drink like ,cattle by sucking without intermission2 it is easily observed1 and worth ,observation4 ,to distinguish which are the ,males and ,females among ,pigeons1 it is chiefly known by the ,voice and ,cooing2 the ,female has a small weak ,voice1 and the ,male a loud and deep ,voice4 ,the ,flesh of ,pigeons is hard of ,digestion1 and therefore is not judged a proper ,supper-meat2 it is said to yield a melancholy ,juice1 but if boil'd are very tender1 or roasted while they are called ,squabs1 viz4 ,pigeons about four days old1 they are much better for the stomach1 and then commonly yield1 among the ,curious in eating1 about eighteen ,pence1 or two ,shillings a piece4 ,the ,food which is generally given to ,pigeons is ,tares2 but if we were to mix ,spurry-,seeds with it1 or ,buckwheat1 those ,grains would forward their breeding1 as has been try'd3 however1 if ,pigeons are fed only with ,tares1 and are of a good kind1 we may expect them to breed nine or ten times in a ,year2 but sometimes1 perhaps1 not hatch above one at a time1 tho' if they were in full ,vigour1 they would breed up a ,pair at one sitting4 ,in the feeding of ,pigeons1 it is adviseable not to let them have more ,meat at one time than they can eat1 for they are apt to toss it about1 and lose a great deal of it2 so that the contrivance of filling a stone ,bottle with their ,meat1 and putting the ,mouth downwards1 so that it may come within an ,inch of a ,plain or ,table1 and will give a supply as they feed1 is much the best way4 ,and their drinking-water should be dispensed to them in the same way out of a ,bottle revers'd with the ,mouth into a narrow shallow ,cistern2 but at the same time they should not want the conveniency of a ,pan of ,water1 if there can be no better had1 to wash themselves in1 for they are of themselves a ,bird subject to contract ,dirt and ,fleas4 ,this is what ,i shall say of the breeding of tame ,pigeons at present4 ,as to the preparing of ,pigeons for the ,table1 they are commonly either roasted1 boiled1 baked1 or broiled2 these are so generally understood1 that ,i need not mention them1 nor that ,parsley is almost become necessary with them either to be roasted or boiled in the ,body of the ,pigeon1 or put in the ,sauces for them3 this every one knows1 but that the ,liver of the ,pigeon should be always left in the ,body of it1 is not known every where1 otherwise it would not be so generally taken out and lost1 as it is in many places remote from ,london2 but this may be1 perhaps1 because every one does not know that a ,pigeon has no ,gall4 ,as to particular ways of ,dressing of ,pigeons1 there are two or three which ,i think are excellent4 ,the first ,i had from a ,lady in ,essex1 whom ,i have had occasion to mention in this and other ,works1 and that is in respect to broiling of ,pigeons whole4 ,when the ,pigeon is prepared for the ,kitchen1 tye the ,skin of the ,neck very tight with ,packthread1 and put into the ,body a little ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,butter1 and a little ,water at the ,vent1 and tie it up close at the ,neck1 broil this upon a gentle ,fire1 flowring it very well1 and basting it with ,butter4 ,when this is brought to ,table1 it brings its ,sauce in itself4 ,to those who are not lovers of ,spice or ,salt1 the ,butter and ,water will be sufficient to draw the ,gravy in the ,pigeon3 but a ,pigeon that is split and broiled is of a very different ,taste from this1 and not worthy1 in my opinion1 to be reckon'd with it4 ,another way of ordering ,pigeons1 which ,i met with by accident1 and pleased me as well as several ,gentlemen in my ,company1 was the boiling of ,pigeons in ,paste3 ,the ,receipt the ,people gave me for it1 was1 to fill the ,belly of the ,pigeon with ,butter1 a little ,water1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 and cover it with a thin light ,paste1 and then to put it in a fine ,linen ,cloth1 and boil it for a time in proportion to its bigness1 and serve it up4 ,when this is cut open1 it will yield ,sauce enough of a very agreeable ,relish4 ,stewing of ,pigeons1 from ,mons4 ,la ,fountaine1 an excellent ,cook in ,paris4 ,pick and wash half a dozen ,pigeons1 and lay them into a ,stew-,pan1 with a ,pint or more of good ,gravy1 an ,onion cut small1 or three or four large ,shalots1 a little ,bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 a ,pint of ,mushrooms that have been well clean'd1 and cut into small ,pieces1 and a little ,mace2 let these stew gently till they are tender1 and add to them about half a ,pint of ,white-,wine just before you take them off the ,fire2 then lay your ,pigeons in your ,dish1 and brown your ,sauce after 'tis discharged of the ,bunch of sweet ,herbs and the ,spice1 which should be tied in a little ,linen ,cloth2 pour then your ,sauce with the ,mushrooms over the ,pigeons1 and strew the whole over with grated ,bread1 giving it a browning with a red-hot ,iron2 or the grated ,bread may be omitted4 ,another ,way of dressing ,pigeons1 from the same4 ,take young ,pigeons and par-boil them1 then chop some raw ,bacon very small1 with a little ,parsley1 a little sweet ,marjoram1 or sweet ,basil1 and a small ,onion2 season this with ,salt1 and ,pepper1 and fill the ,bodys of the ,pigeons with it4 ,when this is done1 stew the ,pigeons in ,gravy1 or strong ,broth1 with an ,onion stuck with ,cloves1 a little ,verjuice and ,salt2 when they are enough1 take them out of the ,liquor1 and dip them in ,eggs that have been well beaten1 and after that roll them in grated ,bread1 that they may be cover'd with it4 ,then make some ,lard very hot1 and fry them in it till they are brown1 and serve them up with some of the ,liquor they were stew'd in1 and fry'd ,parsley4 ,in the beginning of this ,month1 as well as in ,december1 the ,eel is commonly laid up in the ,mud1 and we find them there in ,clusters folded one over another1 which ,i suppose is the manner of coupling2 for in the beginning of ,march1 or end of ,february1 we see young ones as small as ,threads on the edges of the ,waters4 ,i think it is no longer to be doubted1 but that the ,eel is viviparous2 that is1 it brings its young ones perfectly framed1 and does not lay ,spawn like other ,fish3 and the ,resemblance the ,eel bears to that ,fish1 which is call'd by the ,fishermen the ,coney-,fish1 and is found at this time about the ,buoy in the ,nore full of young ones1 makes me the rather conclude the ,eel brings forth its ,young perfectly form'd4 ,this ,fish is not accounted wholesome at this time of the ,year1 nor fit for eating till they begin to run in ,march1 therefore what ,i have to say relating to preparing ,eels for the ,table1 will be set down in the ,month of ,march4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,february4 ,as our ,poultry will begin to lay plentifully in this ,month1 it may not be improper to say something of them before we proceed to give the ,receipts for dressing and preparing their ,eggs for the ,table4 ,it is necessary to be known first1 the ,difference between ,fowls and ,birds2 a ,fowl always leads its young ,ones to the ,meat1 and a ,bird carries the ,meat to the ,young3 for this reason1 we find that ,fowls always make their ,nests upon the ,ground1 while ,birds1 for the most part1 build their ,nests aloft2 so then our common ,poultry are ,fowls1 the ,pheasant1 ,partridge1 ,peacock1 ,turkey1 ,bustard1 ,quail1 ,lapwing1 ,duck1 and such like are all ,fowls3 ,but a ,pigeon is a ,bird1 and a ,stork1 or ,crane1 and a ,heron1 are ,birds1 they build their ,nests aloft1 and carry ,meat to their young ,ones4 ,the ,characteristick ,marks of the ,poultry ,kind are1 besides what ,i have said above1 to have short1 strong1 and somewhat crooked ,bills1 which are best adapted to pick up ,grains of ,corn1 ,pulse1 and other ,seeds1 which is chiefly what these ,fowls feed upon2 and we may observe1 that as neither ,birds nor ,fowls have ,teeth to macerate their ,food with1 so ,nature has provided them not only with a ,crop to soften their ,meat1 but a ,stomach furnish'd with thick strong ,mucles1 whose use is to grind the ,grains of ,corn1 or any hard ,meat swallow'd whole1 which they perform by the help of little ,stones1 which ,birds and ,fowls swallow now and then1 and which supply the defect of ,teeth4 ,it is observable1 that ,fowls1 for the most part1 lay a greater number of ,eggs than ,birds1 even many more than they can sit upon at one time4 ,i have known about thirty ,eggs lay'd by one common ,poultry-,hen1 but it is seldom that any ,bird lays more than five or six1 except the ,wren1 and the ,tom-tit1 and the ,pigeon not more than two4 ,again1 the ,poultry1 contrary to others of the winged ,race1 are armed with ,spurs2 and it is observable1 that the ,cocks of the common ,poultry distinguish themselves from diurnal ,fowls1 by crowing or singing in the ,night1 as the ,nightingale distinguishes itself from the rest of the ,bird-kind4 ,as for the length of ,life in common ,poultry1 ,aldrovandus makes it to be about ten ,years1 but that the ,cock becomes unfit for the ,hens when he is four ,years old2 and we find by experience the same1 as well as that a ,cock should not have more than six or seven ,hens1 if we expect healthful and strong ,broods of ,chickens4 ,about the ,laying-time of these ,fowls1 ,spurry-,seed and ,buckwheat is an excellent strengthening ,food for them4 ,there is another thing relating to ,fowls of this kind well worthy observation2 and that is1 of ,capons being made to bring up a ,brood of ,chickens like a ,hen1 clucking of'em1 brooding them1 and leading them to their ,meat1 with as much ,care and ,tenderness as their ,dams would do4 ,to bring this about1 ,jo4 ,baptista ,porta1 in lib4 #d4 ,mag4 ,nat4 prescribes to make a ,capon very tame and familiar1 so as to take ,meat out of one's ,hand2 then about ,evening-time pluck the ,feathers off his ,breast1 and rub the bare ,skin with ,nettles1 and then put the ,chickens to him1 which will presently run under his ,breast and ,belly2 the ,chickens then rubbing his ,breast gently with their ,heads1 perhaps allay the slinging and itching occasioned by the ,nettles1 or perhaps they may contribute to warm that part where the ,feathers are away3 however1 the bare part must be rubb'd with ,nettles three or four ,nights successively1 till he begins to love and delight in the ,chickens4 ,when a ,capon is once accustomed to this ,service1 he will not casuly leave it off2 but as soon as he has brought up one ,brood of ,chickens1 we may put another to him1 and when they are fit to shift for themselves1 we may give him the ,care of a third4 ,the sorts of the ,house ,pullen1 or common ,poultry1 are many2 but as the use of them for the ,table is the same1 ,i shall only take notice of such as are of the large ,dunghill kind1 or of the ,hamburgh sort1 of the ,game kind1 and of the small ,dutch kind2 which last is admired by some for the fineness of their ,flesh1 and for being great ,layers1 especially in the ,winter3 ,but it is certain that the larger sort sell the best at ,market1 and lay the largest ,eggs1 and therefore should be the most cultivated about a ,farm4 ,as for the ,game ,breed1 some fancy that their ,flesh is more white and tender than the other sorts2 but they are always quarrelling1 which contributes to make themselves and their ,brood weak4 ,where we propose to raise a large ,stock of ,poultry1 we should be careful to secure our ,hen-,house from ,vermin of all sorts1 and keep it dry and clean1 allowing also as much ,air as possible2 for if it is not often clean'd1 the scent of the ,dung will give your ,fowls the ,roop3 ,so likewise there must be easy ,convenience for perching of the ,fowls1 disposed in such a manner1 that the ,perches be not placed over any of the ,hen's ,nests1 which must always lie dry and clean1 bedded with ,straw1 for ,hay is apt to make the sitting ,hens faint and weak4 ,when we design to set a ,hen1 we should save her ,eggs in dry ,bran1 and when she clucks1 put no more in her ,nest than she can well cover2 for as to certain numbers to be more lucky in hatching1 there is nothing in that3 ,and if we fat ,fowls1 then use the ,method prescribed in my ,country ,gentleman and ,farmer's ,monthly ,director1 in the ,month of ,january1 which is much the best way of any that has yet been discovered4 ,in the choice of ,fowls for eating1 those which are white feather'd and white legg'd1 are much tenderer and finer in their ,flesh than those of other ,colours1 and are much weaker2 for which reason1 those who understand ,cocking1 do not approve of such as happen to be white feather'd3 and those which are black feather'd1 are accounted the hottest and most fiery1 and their ,flesh is coarser than in other ,fowls4 ,but let us now come to the use of the ,flesh of these ,fowls1 which is either eaten roasted1 boiled1 fricasseed1 baked1 or broiled either slit or whole4 ,it is to be noted1 that the ,flesh of these ,fowls or ,chickens boiled is more easily digested than the ,flesh of those that are roasted1 and the ,flesh of the ,legs is more easy of ,digestion than that of the ,breast4 ,mr4 ,ray takes notice1 that those parts of ,fowls1 which are continually in ,action1 are esteem'd the best1 for which reason he prefers the ,legs of tame ,fowls1 and what we call the ,wings in wild ,fowl1 that is1 the fleshy part on the ,breast4 ,gefner and ,aldrovandus have both largely treated of the use of the ,flesh and ,eggs of these ,fowls1 but ,i believe some of the following ,receipts for dressing them1 will not be unacceptable1 they being more adapted to the ,taste of our ,times4 ,i shall begin with some curious ways of dressing of ,eggs1 which ,i had from a ,gentleman of ,brussels1 who had collected them from most parts of ,europe4 ,first ,way of dressing of ,eggs4 ,boil your ,eggs till they are hard1 and cut the ,whites only into ,rings or large pieces2 then cut some ,parsley and ,onions small1 and stew them with a little ,salt1 ,pepper1 and ,nutmeg in half a ,pint of ,water1 till the ,onion and ,parsley is tender2 when this is done1 put in your ,eggs well flower'd1 and as soon as they are hot1 put half a ,pint of ,cream to them1 and thicken them for serving at the ,table4 ,the ,yolks may be fry'd to garnish the ,dish4 ,second ,way of preparing of ,eggs4 ,boil your ,eggs hard as before1 and cut the ,whites likewise as directed in the above ,receipt1 and then prepare some ,gravy1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 a little ,salt1 some ,lemon ,peel1 some ,jamaica ,pepper beaten small1 an ,onion shred small1 and let these stew together till it is sufficiently season'd2 after which1 strain it off1 and put in the ,eggs to heat them thoroughly1 and then thicken the whole with burnt ,butter4 ,third ,way of preparing of ,eggs4 ,break some ,eggs1 beat them well1 and season them with ,salt and some ,jamaica ,pepper finely powder'd1 then make some ,butter very hot in a ,pan1 and pour in the ,mixture to fry1 till it is hard enough to hold together2 then it must be taken out1 and cut into several ,pieces1 and served with the same ,sauce directed in the foregoing ,receipt4 ,fourth ,way of dressing of ,eggs4 ,take the ,hearts of two or three ,cabbage-,lettuces1 a little ,sorrel1 ,parsley1 ,cherville1 and a large ,mushroom1 put them in ,water over the ,fire till they are tender1 then chop them together very small with some ,yolks of hard ,eggs1 and season the whole with ,salt1 ,pepper1 or ,nutmeg2 and when the ,mass is well mixt together1 put them in paste1 making them into small flat ,puffs1 and fry them4 ,this may be diversify'd1 by adding some sweet ,herbs chop'd small to the ,mixture1 before it is put into ,paste4 ,fifth ,way of dressing of ,eggs4 ,beat as many ,eggs as you think convenient1 and at the same time squeeze the ,juice of an ,orange among them2 being well beaten1 season them with a little ,salt1 then take a ,stew-,pan1 and if it is a ,fast-day1 put some ,butter into it and pour in your ,eggs1 keeping them stirring continually over the ,fire till they are enough1 then pour them into a ,plate upon ,sippets4 ,but on ,flesh-days1 instead of ,butter use strong ,gravy1 or on ,fish-days some ,mushroom-,gravy may be used instead of ,butter1 or with it4 ,sixth ,way of ordering of ,eggs4 ,boil ,eggs till they are hard1 peel them1 and cut them lengthways1 then quarter each half1 and dip the several quarters in ,batter1 made of ,flower1 ,eggs and ,milk2 fry them then in ,butter very hot1 over a quick ,fire1 and lay them a while before the ,fire to drain4 ,in the mean while prepare for them the following ,sauce of burnt or brown ,butter1 seasoned with ,sweet-herbs1 ,salt1 ,pepper1 ,nutmeg1 and a little ,elder-,vinegar1 with some ,mushrooms stew'd and hash'd2 and garnish your ,dish1 or ,plate1 with fry'd ,bread1 ,parsley1 and fry'd ,mushrooms4 ,these are a few out of many ,receipts1 which the above ,gentleman gave me1 and may serve as ,directions for many others2 for by what ,i can find1 all the others depend upon the same ,principles4 ,the variation of these depends upon the variety of ,tastes3 ,some like ,amletts1 or ,frazes of ,eggs1 with ,bacon1 or with ,clary1 or other high-tasted ,herbs1 which every good ,housewife knows how to direct4 ,the same ,gentleman observes1 that ,amletts with boiled ,artichoke ,bottoms sliced1 ,amletts with the ,tops of boil'd ,asparagus1 green ,pease boiled1 ,mushrooms stew'd and sliced1 or ,truffles1 these he tells me are extraordinary4 ,as to the particulars relating to the dressing of farced ,fowls1 the methods which most agree with my ,palate1 and have been admired by the best ,judges of my ,acquaintance1 are the following1 which ,i had from ,france4 ,to dress a ,capon1 or other ,fowl4 ,when your ,fowl is truss'd for ,roasting1 cover the ,breast with a thin slice of fat ,bacon1 and put an ,onion stuck with ,cloves into the ,belly1 with some ,salt and ,pepper2 when it is roasted enough1 take off the ,bacon1 and strew it with grated ,bread1 till it is brown4 ,this is eaten1 either with ,orange-,juice and ,salt1 or if ,oysters are at hand1 as they are about many ,farms in ,england1 they may be stew'd gently with a little ,white ,wine1 ,spice1 and a little ,butter1 which will make an agreeable ,sauce for it4 ,or else it may be eaten with a very good ,sauce1 which ,i have often met with1 and have lik'd as well2 which is made with small ,beer and ,water1 equal quantities1 an ,onion slic'd1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 and about an ,ounce of ,flesh1 either of ,mutton or ,beef1 to boil till it comes to about half1 supposing at first 'tis not above half a ,pint2 and at some places1 instead of ,mutton1 c4 this ,sauce has been only made of the ,neck of a ,fowl4 ,this ,sauce1 in my ,opinion1 has a very rich ,taste1 and has been well approv'd of by some curious ,travellers3 ,where we could have this1 we rather chose it than ,wine-,sauce4 ,capons1 ,pullets1 or others of this sort of ,fowl1 may be also larded with ,bacon1 if they are roasted2 but the ,gentleman aforesaid1 who gave me this ,receipt1 told me that no ,water-,fowl must be larded with ,bacon4 ,to farce or stuff a ,fowl4 ,from ,mr4 ,agneau4 ,when your ,fowl is made ready for ,roasting1 take the ,liver boil'd1 a ,shallot1 a little ,fat of ,bacon1 some grated ,bread1 the ,bottom of a boil'd ,artichoke1 and some ,mushrooms1 chop these very small1 and make a forc'd ,meat of them1 season'd with ,salt and ,spices at pleasure2 fill the ,belly of the ,fowl with this1 and then truss it1 covering the ,breast with a thin slice of fat ,bacon1 and over that put a piece of writing ,paper4 ,roast this1 and serve it up with the following ,sauce3 ,make a hash of ,mushrooms1 an ,anchovy1 a few ,capers and some ,gravy1 boiled together with such ,seasoning as you approve2 the ,sauce should be thicken'd or brown'd1 and it is fit for the ,table4 ,to farce ,fowls another way4 ,from the same4 ,take ,pullets and roast them1 then take the ,flesh of the ,breast1 and mince it small1 with some ,fat of ,bacon boil'd1 a few ,mushrooms1 a little ,onion and ,parsley1 and some ,crumb of ,bread soak'd in ,cream over a gentle ,fire2 when all these are well minc'd1 add the ,yolks of two or three ,eggs1 and mix all together2 then with this forced ,meat fill the ,breast of the ,fowls in their proper shape1 and beat some ,whites of ,eggs to go over them1 and then cover them thick with ,crumbs of ,bread1 having first laid your ,fowls commodiously in a ,dish1 and then put them in the ,oven till they have taken a fine brown ,colour4 ,if you have more of this farced ,meat than you use in making good the ,fowls1 either make it into ,balls and fry them1 or else make a ,batter of ,eggs1 ,milk1 and ,wheat-,flower1 and dip small parcels of the ,farce into it to fry for garnishing4 ,you may make a ,sauce to these farced ,fowls with stew'd ,mushrooms toss'd up with ,cream2 the same may be done with ,turkeys1 ,pheasants1 c4 ,to make a brown or white ,fricassee of ,chickens4 ,from the same4 ,strip the ,chickens of their ,skins as soon as they are kill'd1 and when they are drawn1 cut their ,wings1 ,legs1 and most fleshy parts in ,pieces1 then fry them a little in ,hog's-,lard2 after which1 put them to stew with a little ,butter and ,gravy1 for a brown ,fricassee1 or ,butter and ,water for a white ,fricassee2 to either of these add a ,glass of ,white ,wine1 with a ,seasoning of ,salt1 ,pepper1 ,nutmeg1 ,cherville cut small1 and three or four young ,onions whole1 that they may be withdrawn when the ,fricassee is enough3 ,then brown the ,sauce with some of the same ,lard the ,chickens were fry'd in1 and thicken it with burnt ,flower2 to this you may add fry'd or stew'd ,mushrooms4 ,but for a white ,fricassee1 instead of the browning with the ,lard and burnt ,flower1 thicken the ,sauces with three or four ,yolks of ,eggs1 and a little ,verjuice2 or else when the ,fricassee is stew'd enough1 take off the ,fat as much as possible1 and toss it up with ,cream2 this will serve to fricassee ,rabbits4 ,in ,lent1 and on ,fast-days1 ,i have eaten very good ,soups abroad1 that were made without any ,flesh4 ,and as that is not very common in ,england1 ,i thought it convenient to bring over the ,receipts with me1 that we may know how to make the best of every thing about a ,farm4 ,to make ,fish-,gravy for ,soups4 ,to make this ,fish-,gravy1 which may serve for a ,foundation of all ,fish ,soups1 take ,tench or ,eels1 or both1 well scour'd from ,mud1 and their ,outsides scour'd well with ,salt2 then pull out their ,gills1 and put them in a ,kettle with ,water1 ,salt1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and an ,onion stuck with ,cloves2 boil these an hour and a half1 and then strain off the ,liquor thro' a ,cloth3 add to this the ,peelings of ,mushrooms well wash'd1 or ,mushrooms themselves cut small2 boil these together1 and strain the ,liquor thro' a ,sieve into a ,stew-,pan1 upon some burnt or fry'd ,flower1 and a little ,lemon1 which will soon render it of a good ,colour1 and delicate ,flavour1 fit for ,soups1 which may be varied according to the ,palate1 by putting in ,pot-,herbs and ,spices to every one's liking2 this will keep good some time4 ,when you make any of this into ,soup1 remember to put a ,glass of white ,wine into your ,soup a little before you serve it4 ,a ,foundation for ,herb ,soups4 ,take a quantity of good ,herbs1 such as ,cherville1 ,spinage1 ,sallery1 ,leeks1 ,beet-,cards1 and such like1 with two or three large ,crusts of ,bread1 some ,butter1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and a little ,salt2 put these1 with a moderate quantity of ,water1 into a ,kettle1 and boil them an hour and half1 and strain off the ,liquor thro' a ,sieve1 and it will be a good ,foundation for ,soups1 either of ,asparagus ,buds1 ,lettuce1 or any other kind1 fit for ,lent or ,fast-days4 ,these ,herb ,soups are sometimes strengthened with two or three ,yolks of ,eggs1 a little before they are serv'd to the ,table4 ,as in this ,month there is plenty of ,oranges1 so it is a proper ,season to make ,orange-,wine1 which is a most pleasant and refreshing ,liquor in the ,summer ,season4 ,the following ,receipt is an approved one for it4 ,to make ,orange ,wine4 ,from ,mrs4 ,e4 ,b4 ,take twenty ,gallons of ,water1 and forty ,pounds of fine ,sugar1 mix these together1 boil and clarify it with the ,whites of ,eggs3 against this is done1 have two hundred middling ,oranges1 pared so thin that no ,white appear upon the ,rinds2 and as soon as the ,syrup is taken off the ,fire1 put the ,peels of five and twenty ,oranges into it2 and when the ,liquor is quite cold1 put in the ,juice of the ,oranges1 with some fresh ,ale-,yeast spread upon a warm ,toast of white ,bread2 let this work two days1 and then put it into the ,vessel or ,cask1 adding at the same time1 two ,gallons of white ,port ,wine2 and then to every ,gallon of ,liquor1 add an ,ounce of ,syrup of ,citron1 or ,syrup of ,lemon1 and in two ,months time it be fit to bottle4 ,in this ,month it may not be unneccessary to observe that ,oranges are declining1 and waste apaces2 but they are commonly very cheap1 and therefore such as have a great ,call for ,orange-peel1 as ,confectioners1 c4 now buy them in quantities2 but a little ,carriage by ,land will contribute to their quicker decay4 ,the ,orange1 tho' it is not found in every ,garden1 yet ,i esteem it as a necessary ,fruit in many ,cases1 and what a ,family can hardly be without2 and truly considering how good ,oranges we might have in our ,gardens1 and how easily they may be cultivated against ,garden-walls1 ,i much wonder that they are not more generally planted with us4 ,there is a very good ,instance of their prospering well against a ,wall1 and thriving in the natural ,ground1 at ,mr4 ,heather's1 a curious ,gentleman at ,tiwittenham1 which ,trees bear very well1 and bring very large ,fruit4 ,but as ,i have observ'd above1 that this is the ,season when foreign ,oranges are generally in the greatest plenty about ,london1 it is a good time to preserve their ,juice2 especially it may prove useful to such as have opportunities of vending ,punch in large ,quantitles1 or for such who find that ,liquor agreeable to them3 ,for tho' ,i have known several who have express'd the ,juice of ,oranges and ,lemons1 and bottled it up against a dear ,time1 yet such ,juice has turn'd to be of a very disageeable ,sourness in a short season4 ,the ,method which ,i have taken to preserve this ,juice to be used in ,punch1 was to express the ,juice1 and pass it thro' a ,jelly-bag1 with about two ,ounces of double-refined ,loaf-,sugar to each ,pint of ,juice1 and a ,pint of ,brandy1 or ,arrack2 bottle this up1 and cork it well with sound ,corks1 and you may keep it a ,year4 ,before you pass this ,liquor thro' the ,bag1 you may put about the ,rind of two ,oranges to steep for two ,hours1 into each ,quart of ,liquor1 which will give it a rich ,flavour4 ,when you have occasion to use it for ,punch1 it is at the discretion of the ,maker to add what quantity of ,brandy1 or ,arrack1 he thinks proper1 only remembring that there is already a ,pint in each ,bottle4 ,this may be of good advantage to ,inn-keepers1 c4 who live remote from ,london2 and by this way they need not run the hazard of losing this sort of ,fruit1 by bruising or rotting1 which they will be subject to1 if they are not well pack'd1 and have bad ,roads4 ,and besides1 considering the vast difference that there is in the ,price of ,oranges1 so much1 that at some ,seasons you must pay as much for one1 as will at another time purchase near a ,dozen1 it is the best to consider of this when they are at the cheapest ,price4 ,we may likewise use the same ,method with ,lemons2 but it is not convenient to steep any of the ,peels in the ,liquor1 for they will give it a disagreeable ,flavour4 ,but it is to be understood also1 that ,lemons are to be met with in perfection all the ,year2 only this ,season they are at the cheapest ,price4 ,the ,peel of an ,orange or two may be put to each ,quart of ,juice1 to steep as above directed1 bruising every piece of ,peel as you put it into the ,juice4 ,note1 that the ,lemon and ,orange ,juice must not be mix'd together in the same ,bottles4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,march4 ,this ,month all sorts of ,pond-fish are in ,season2 viz4 the ,jack1 the ,carp1 the ,tench1 the ,perch1 and the ,eel2 but it must be noted1 that both the ,males and ,females of every kind of ,fish are in their greatest ,perfection before the ,spawning-time1 and they are sick and unwholesome for three ,weeks after ,spawning4 ,the ,eel1 indeed1 has not yet been known to lay any ,spawn1 but is likely to be ,viviparous1 as ,i have mention'd in the ,month of ,january4 ,the ,jack1 or ,pike1 this ,month runs1 as the ,sportsmen call it2 that is1 they retire into the ,ditches1 if there are any in their way1 and feed upon ,frogs2 or else1 in warm ,days1 lie upon the top of the ,waters1 and are easily taken by ,snares3 ,however1 they are this ,month full row'd1 and are then in their greatest ,strength1 and in the best condition for the ,table4 ,we judge those are the best which are broad-back'd1 and deep ,fish2 for those that are long and slender1 have not their ,flesh firm1 which is reckon'd the ,perfection of a ,fish4 ,the way of preparing this ,fish in the best manner1 in my ,opinion1 if it is large1 is to roast it according to the following ,receipt1 which ,i had from ,mr4 ,john ,hughs1 an excellent ,cook in ,london4 ,when a ,jack or ,pike is discharged of its ,scales and ,entrails1 and well clean'd1 prepare a ,mixture in the following ,manner1 to be sew'd up in the ,belly of the ,fish3 ,take of grated ,bread about one third part1 the ,rivet1 or ,liver of the ,fish cut small1 with ,oysters chopped1 or the ,flesh of ,eels cut small2 mix these with three or four ,eggs butter'd in a ,sauce-pan1 to which add ,pepper and ,salt with some dry'd ,sweet ,marjoram well pouder'd1 or such other ,sweet-herbs as are most grateful to the ,palate1 an ,anchovy shred small1 and fill the ,belly of the ,fish with the ,preparation1 and sew it up4 ,when this is done1 cut two small ,laths of ,willow1 or any other ,wood1 except ,deal1 or such as has a ,turpentine ,juice in it1 of the length of the ,fish1 and lay the ,fish upon the ,spit1 with the two ,laths upon the ,fish1 and bind them together with a ,fillet of ,linnen1 about an ,inch wide1 which must be wrapp'd round them in a ,screw-like manner1 and then laid down to the ,fire1 and basted very well with ,butter1 and drudged with ,crumbs of ,bread1 and the same sort of ,sweet-herbs that were used in the ,mixture abovemention'd4 ,where you have not the conveniency of ,oysters1 or ,eels1 to compose the aforemention'd ,mixture1 you may add a larger quantity of butter'd ,eggs4 ,where there is the conveniency of an ,oven1 we may bake such a ,fish with less trouble than roasting it2 and in that case rub the outside with the ,yolk of an ,egg1 and roll it in some of the ,mixture abovemention'd1 the ,anchovy and butter'd ,eggs excepted1 putting some ,vinegar and ,butter in the ,pan4 ,the ,sauce to this ,fish is ,butter melted1 a little ,white-wine1 and mix'd with a third part of season'd ,beef ,gravy1 with a ,spoonful or two of ,mushroom ,ketchup1 and an ,anchovy or two dissolved4 ,the smaller ,sort of these ,fish1 i4e4 such as are about a ,foot long1 are most commonly boiled1 but they will do well baked1 as above directed4 ,the same ,sauce may be used with the boil'd ,fish2 or instead of ,beef ,gravy1 may be used the ,mushroom ,gravy1 as directed in this ,work1 which will have a much finer ,relish than the ,beef ,gravy4 ,in this ,month likewise1 the ,carp is fit for the ,table1 and is commonly much admir'd1 if it be well stew'd2 otherwise ,i think it makes but an indifferent ,dish1 being a ,fish full of ,cross-bones4 ,the ,head is accounted much the best part of the ,fish1 and is therefore presented as a ,compliment to the greatest ,stranger at the ,table4 ,the ,carp1 as it is a ,fish which thrives best in black1 deep1 standing ,waters1 is therefore commonly given to taste of the ,mud2 but to cure this1 those ,carps you intend for the ,table should be put into a clear ,water for a ,week before you use them1 that they may purge themselves4 ,you may keep two ,brace of large ,carps well enough in a two-dozen ,hamper1 plung'd into any part of a ,river where there is a clear ,stream1 or ,trench that is fed by a ,spring1 and they will become of an extraordinary sweet ,taste4 ,and so we may do with ,tench and ,eels1 when we catch them in foul feeding ,waters4 ,when your ,fish are thus purify'd1 dress your ,carps after the following manner3 ,to ,stew ,carps or ,tench4 ,take a ,brace of live ,carp1 scale them1 gut and wash them1 and bleed them in the ,tails1 so that the ,blood be not lost2 for according to all the ,receipts for stewing this kind of ,fish1 the ,blood1 however small the ,quantity is of it1 must make part of the ,sauce3 ,lay these in a ,stew-,pan with the ,blood1 a ,pint of ,beef-,gravy1 a ,pint of ,claret1 a large ,onion stuck with ,cloves1 three large ,anchovies1 a ,stick of ,horse-radish sliced1 the ,peel of half a large ,lemon1 ,pepper and ,salt at pleasure1 a ,bunch of ,sweet-herbs1 two or three ,spoonfuls of ,vinegar4 ,this ,liquor should nearly cover the ,carps2 so that if the ,gravy and ,claret1 mention'd above1 be not sufficient1 add equal quantities of each till you have enough2 cover this close1 and set the ,stew-pan over a gentle ,fire1 till the lower-side of the ,fish are stew'd enough2 then turn them1 and keep them stewing as before1 close cover'd1 till they are enough2 after which1 lay them in a ,dish upon ,sippets of fry'd ,bread1 and strain off the ,sauce to be thicken'd and brown'd with burnt ,butter4 ,this must be poured over the ,fish1 and the ,dish garnish'd with the ,row or ,milt1 ,barberries1 and ,lemons sliced4 ,the same ,method is also used for stewing of large ,roach1 ,dace1 and ,chubb2 but a ,tench stew'd this way1 is much better than a ,carp1 ,the ,back of this ,fish1 and the ,head1 are the ,pieces which are most in esteem4 ,it is worth our remark1 that when we find our ,tench cover'd with black ,scales1 they ,will always taste muddy1 which is the fault of the ,river-,tench about ,cambridge2 but where we find ,tench of a golden ,colour1 we are sure of good ,fish1 that will eat sweet without the trouble of putting 'em into clear ,water to purify4 ,as there is some trouble in the dressing of this ,fish1 they may be stew'd the ,night before they are to be eaten1 and will keep very well2 and half an hour before they are to be serv'd up1 set them over the ,fire to be thoroughly hot1 and then brown their ,sauce as before directed4 ,it is to be observ'd1 that to bake these ,fish with the above ,ingredients is as good a ,way as the stewing them4 ,it is likewise necessary to observe1 that all ,fish which will keep a long time alive out of ,water1 will sicken1 and their ,flesh become unfirm by lying in the ,air2 therefore1 if ,fish are to be sent a ,day's ,journey1 or kept a ,day before they are used1 kill them as soon as they are taken out of the ,water1 and the ,flesh will be firm4 ,i shall add one thing more concerning the boiling of ,fish1 which was communicated to me by a very ingenious ,gentleman1 who has made ,fishing his ,study for many ,years3 ,he says1 that the ,goodness of boil'd ,fish consists chiefly in the ,firmness of the ,flesh2 and in the next place1 that the ,flesh parts easily from the ,bone2 to do which1 he directs to kill the ,fish immediately after they are taken out of the ,water2 and when you design to boil 'em1 put a large handful of ,salt into about two or three quarts of ,water1 and so in proportion3 ,put in the ,fish while the ,water is cold2 then set them over the ,fire1 and make them boil as quick as possible1 without any ,cover over the ,pan4 ,this is approved to do very well4 ,this ,receipt is particularly good for boiling of ,flounders4 ,his ,receipt for ,sauce for boil'd ,fish1 is the following4 ,sauce for boil'd ,fish4 ,take ,beef-,gravy1 an ,onion1 a little ,white-wine1 some ,horse-radish sliced1 ,lemon-peel1 an ,anchovy1 a ,bunch of ,sweet-herbs1 boil them well together1 and strain off the ,liquor1 then put a ,spoonful of ,mushroom ,ketchup to it1 and thicken it with ,butter mix'd with ,flower3 or for ,fast-days the ,gravy may be omitted1 and in the place of it put ,mushroom-,gravy1 or a larger quantity of ,mushroom-,ketchup1 or some of the ,fish-,gravy mention'd in ,february1 which is good to put in ,sauce for any sort of ,fish4 ,as this is the ,month when ,eels begin to be good1 ,i shall give two or three ,receipts for the ,dressing of them in the best manner3 ,the first for ,roasting of ,eels1 or ,pitchcotting them1 ,i had from the ,crown at ,basingstoke some ,years ago2 and that for ,collaring of ,eels1 from ,mr4 ,john ,hughs1 a celebrated ,cook in ,london4 ,but ,i shall first observe1 that the ,silver ,eel is counted the best2 and that all such as lie and feed in clear ,streams1 may be used without purging them1 as ,i have directed above2 but all ,pond ,eels must be put into clear ,waters for a ,week1 at least1 before they are used1 if you would have them in perfection4 ,and now to the ,receipts4 ,to ,roast or ,broil an ,eel1 from the ,crown at ,basingstoke1 ,an4 #agah4 ,take a large ,eel1 rub the ,skin well with ,salt1 then gut it and wash it well2 cut off the ,head and skin it1 laying by the ,skin in ,water and ,salt2 then lay your ,eel in a clean ,dish1 and pour out about a ,pint of ,vinegar upon it1 letting it remain in the ,vinegar near an hour2 then withdraw your ,eel from the ,vinegar1 and make several ,incisions at proper distances in the ,flesh of the ,back and ,sides1 which ,spaces must be fill'd with the following ,mixture3 ,take grated ,bread1 the ,yolks of two or three hard ,eggs1 one ,anchovy minced small1 some ,sweet-,marjoram dry'd and pouder'd2 or for want of that1 some ,green ,marjoram shred small3 to this add ,pepper1 ,salt1 a little ,pouder of ,cloves1 or ,jamaica ,pepper1 and a little fresh ,butter1 to be beat all together in a ,stone ,mortar1 till it becomes like a ,paste2 with which ,mixture fill all the ,incisions that you cut in the ,eel1 and draw the ,skin over it3 then tie the end of the ,skin next the ,head1 and prick it with a ,fork in several ,places2 then tie it to a ,spit to roast1 or lay it upon a ,grid-iron to broil1 without basting4 ,the ,sauce for this is ,butter1 ,anchovy1 a little ,pepper1 and ,lemon-juice4 ,to ,pitchcot ,eels4 ,take a large ,eel1 clean well with ,salt and ,water both the ,skin and the ,inside1 then pull off the ,skin1 and prepare the following ,mixture of ,bread grated1 ,sweet-herbs pouder'd1 or minced small1 such as ,sweet-marjoram1 ,sage1 and some ,pepper and ,salt2 then rub your ,eel with ,yolks of ,eggs1 and after that1 roll it in the ,mixture1 then draw the ,skin over it1 and cut your ,eel in several pieces about three ,inches in length1 dipping them again in ,yolks of ,eggs1 and after that1 in the above ,mixture3 then lay them on the ,gridiron1 and when they are enough1 serve them to the ,table1 with the ,sauce prescribed for the roasted ,eels1 abovemention'd4 ,to ,collar ,eels1 from ,mr4 ,john ,hughs1 a famous ,cook in ,london4 ,take a large ,eel1 and scour the ,skin and the ,inside very well with ,salt1 cut off the ,head1 and split it down the ,back1 then lay it abroad upon your ,dresser1 and season it well with ,spice1 ,salt1 and a good quantity of ,red ,sage minced small3 mix these well1 and sprinkle the ,mixture thick upon your ,eel1 then roll it up1 and tye it close in a thin ,cloth at each end1 and in the middle2 boil it then in a strong ,pickle of ,vinegar1 ,water1 ,salt1 some ,spice1 and a ,bay-leaf or two2 and when it is boiled enough1 take out the ,eel1 and let it stand till it is quite cold1 and when the ,pickle is cold likewise1 pour the ,pickle into a glazed ,earthen-,pan1 and put your ,eel into it to keep for ,use2 this will remain good several ,weeks1 if it is kept close cover'd4 ,when the ,eel is quite cold1 take off the ,cloth4 ,the ,eel is also good in ,pyes1 fry'd and boil'd1 which every one knows how to prepare4 ,about the end of this ,month1 the ,trout begins to come in ,season2 for before this time1 its ,body is cover'd with little ,insects1 which is a ,demonstration of its being sick and unwholesome4 ,the best way of eating this ,fish is to boil it1 and serve it with ,butter and an ,anchovy for ,sauce2 as is commonly practis'd about ,hungerford1 ,spenham-,land1 and other noted ,places for ,trout4 ,if the ,season is now mild1 about the end of the ,month the ,sap in the ,birch-,tree will begin to be very fluent4 ,and so in the ,choice of ,fish to be seasonable1 we must have regard to the ,temper of the ,air2 for if the ,air be mild and gentle1 sooner or later all parts of the ,creation are govern'd by it3 but when ,i direct for this ,month or another any thing to be done1 ,i suppose the ,temper of the ,air to be what it is for the generality2 but the ,birch-,tree ,sap we will suppose begins now to flow1 and then we are to take the opportunity of making ,wine of it4 ,the best ,receipt ,i have met with for making this ,wine1 is the following4 ,to make ,birch-,wine4 ,from ,lady ,w4 ,when the ,sap of the ,birch-,tree will run1 cut a large ,notch in the ,bark of the ,trunk of the ,tree1 in such a place as one may conveniently place a ,vessel to receive the ,sap2 which ,will flow at the ,incision very plentifully1 without doing any harm to the ,tree4 ,if the ,trees are pretty large1 you may expect about a ,gallon of ,liquor from each of them1 which must be order'd in the following manner4 ,take five ,gallons of the ,liquor1 to which put five ,pounds of ,powder-,sugar1 and two ,pounds of ,raisins of the ,sun stoned2 to this1 put the ,peel of one large ,lemon1 and about forty large fresh ,cloves3 boil all these together1 taking off the ,scum carefully as it rises2 then pour it off into some ,vessel to cool1 and as soon as it is cool enough to put ,yeast to it1 work it as you would do ,ale for two days1 and then tunn it1 taking care not to stop the ,vessel till it has done ,working1 and in a ,month's time it will be ready to bottle4 ,this is not only a very ,pleasant1 but a very ,wholesome ,wine4 ,this ,month is esteemed one of the principal ,seasons for brewing of ,malt ,liquors for long keeping2 the ,reason is1 because the ,air at this time of the ,year is temperate1 and contributes to the good ,working or ,fermenting the ,drink1 which chiefly promotes its ,preservation and good ,keeping3 for very cold ,weather prevents the free ,fermentation or ,working of ,liquors1 as well as very hot ,weather2 so that if we brew in very cold ,weather1 unless we use some ,means to warm the ,cellar while new ,drink is ,working1 it will never clear itself as it ought to do2 and the same ,misfortune will it lie under1 if in very hot ,weather the ,cellar is not put in a temperate state1 the ,consequence of which will be1 that such ,drink will be ,muddy and ,sour1 and1 perhaps1 never recover2 or if it does1 perhaps not under two or three ,years4 ,again1 such ,misfortunes are often owing to the badness of the ,cellars2 for where they are dug in springy ,ground1 or are subject to ,wet in the ,winter1 then the ,drink will chill1 and grow flat and dead4 ,but where ,cellars are of this sort1 it is adviseable to make your great ,brewings in this ,month rather than in ,october2 for you may keep such ,cellars temperate in ,summer1 but cannot warm them in ,winter1 and so your ,drink brew'd in ,march will have due time to settle and adjust itself before the ,cold can do it any great harm4 ,it is adviseable likewise to build your ,cellars for keeping of ,drink1 after such a manner1 that none of the external ,air may come into them2 for the variation of the ,air abroad1 was there free admission of it into the ,cellars1 would cause as many ,alterations in the ,liquors1 and so would keep them perpetually disturb'd and unfit for drinking4 ,i know some curious ,gentlemen in these things1 that keep double ,doors to their ,cellars1 on purpose that none of the outward ,air may get into them1 and they have good reason to boast of their ,malt-,liquors4 ,the meaning of the double ,doors1 is to keep one shut while the other is open1 that the outward ,air may be excluded2 such ,cellars1 if they lie dry1 as they ought to do1 are said to be cool in ,summer1 and warm in ,winter1 tho' in reality1 they are constantly the same in point of ,temper3 they seem indeed cool in hot ,weather1 but that is because we come into them from an hotter abroad2 and so they seem to us warm in ,winter1 because we come out of a colder ,air to them2 so that they are only cold or warm comparatively1 as the ,air we come out of is hotter or colder4 ,this is the ,cafe1 and a ,cellar should be thus dispos'd if we expect to have good ,drink4 ,as for the ,brewing ,part itself1 ,i shall leave that to the ,brewers in the several ,counties in ,england1 who have most of them different ,manners even of ,brewing honestly4 ,what ,i shall chiefly touch upon1 besides what ,i shall speak of ,cellaring1 will relate to ,water1 ,malt1 ,hops1 and the keeping ,liquors4 ,the best ,water1 to speak in general1 is ,river ,water1 such as is soft1 and has partook of the ,air and ,sun2 for this easily insinuates itself into the ,malt1 and extracts its ,virtue2 whereas the hard ,waters astringe and bind the ,parts of the ,malt1 so that its ,virtue is not freely communicated to the ,liquor4 ,it is a ,rule with a ,friend of mine1 that all ,water which will mix with ,soap is fit for ,brewing1 and he will by no means allow of any other2 and ,i have more than once experienc'd1 that where the same ,quantity of ,malt has been used to a ,barrel of ,river ,water1 and the same to a ,barrel of ,spring ,water1 the ,river ,water ,brewing has excell'd the other in ,strength above five degrees in twelve ,months1 as ,i prov'd by a small ,glass-,tube with a ,seal1 and was much preferable to the ,taste1 ,i must observe too1 that the ,malt was not only in ,quantity the same for one ,barrel as for another1 but was the same in ,quality1 having been all measur'd from the same ,heap2 so also the ,hops were the same both in ,quality and ,quantity1 and the ,time of boiling1 and both work'd in the same manner1 and tunn'd and kept in the same ,cellar4 ,here it was plain that there was no difference but the ,water1 and yet one ,barrel was worth two of the other4 ,there is one thing which has long puzzled the best ,brewers1 which ,i shall here endeavour to explain2 and that is1 where several ,gentlemen in the same ,town have employ'd the same ,brewer1 have had the same ,malt1 the same ,hops1 and the same ,water too1 and brew'd all in the same ,month1 and broach'd their ,drink at the same time2 and yet one has had ,beer which has been extremely fine1 strong1 and well tasted1 while the others have hardly had any worth drinking4 ,i conjecture there may be three ,reasons for this difference3 ,one may be the different ,weather which might happen at the different ,brewings in this ,month1 which might make an ,alteration in the ,working of the ,liquors3 ,or1 secondly1 that the ,yeast or ,barm might be of different sorts1 or in different states1 wherewith these ,liquors were ,work'd3 ,and1 thirdly1 that the ,cellars were not equally good3 for ,i am very sensible1 the goodness of such ,drink1 as is brew'd for keeping1 depends upon the goodness of the ,cellars where it is kept2 for at a ,gentleman's of my ,acquaintance1 who for many ,years has used the same ,brewer1 and the same ,method1 his ,beer is always of the same ,taste1 his ,cellars1 or ,vaults1 are very dry1 and have two or three ,doors to them4 ,the ,dorchester ,beer1 which is esteem'd preferable to most of the ,malt-,liquor in ,england1 is for the most part brew'd of chalky ,water1 which is almost every where in that ,county2 and as the ,soil is generally ,chalk there1 ,i am of opinion1 that the ,cellars being dug in that dry ,soil contributes to the good keeping of their ,drink1 it being of a close texture1 and of a drying quality1 so as to dissipate ,damps2 for damp ,cellars1 we find by experience1 are injurious to keeping ,liquors1 as well as destructive to the ,casks4 ,the ,malt of this ,country is of a pale ,colour2 and the best ,drink of this ,county that ,i have met with to be sold1 is at a small ,house against the ,church at ,blackwater1 four ,miles beyond ,dorchester1 in the ,road to ,bridport1 in ,dorsetshire2 they broach no ,beer till it is a ,year old1 and has had time to mellow4 ,but there must be such ,cellars as ,i speak of1 which inclose a temperate ,air1 to ripen ,drink in2 the constant temperate ,air digests and softens these ,malt ,liquors1 so that they drink smooth as ,oil2 but in the ,cellars which are unequal1 by letting in ,heats and ,colds1 the ,drink is subject to grow stale and sharp3 ,for this reason it is1 that ,drink1 which is brew'd for a long ,voyage at ,sea1 should be perfectly ripe and fine before it is exported1 for when it has had sufficient time to digest in the ,cask1 and is rack'd from the ,bottom or ,lee1 it will bear carriage without injury4 ,it is farther to be noted1 that in proportion to the quantity of ,liquor1 which is enclosed in one ,cask1 so will it be a longer or a shorter time in ripening4 ,a ,vessel which will contain two ,hogsheads of ,beer1 will require twice as much time to perfect itself as one of a ,hogshead2 and from my experience ,i find there should be no ,vessel used for strong ,beer1 which we design to keep1 less than a ,hogshead3 for one of that quantity1 if it be fit to draw in a ,year1 has ,body enough to support it two1 or three1 or four ,years1 if it has strength of ,malt and ,hops in it1 as the ,dorseshire ,beer has2 and this will bear the ,sea very well1 as we find every day4 ,there is one thing more to be consider'd in the preservation of ,beer2 and that is1 when once the ,vessel is broach'd1 we ought to have regard to the time in which it will be expended3 for if there happens to be a quick ,draught for it1 then it will last good to the very bottom2 but if there is likely to be a slow draught1 then do not draw off quite half1 before you bottle it1 or else your ,beer will grow flat1 dead1 or sour4 ,this is observed very much among the ,curious4 ,one great piece of ,oeconomy is the good management of ,small ,beer2 for if that is not good1 the ,drinkers of it will be feeble in ,summer-time1 and incapable of strong ,work1 and will be very subject to ,distempers2 and besides1 when ,drink is not good1 a great deal will be thrown away4 ,the use of ,drink1 as well as ,meat1 is to nourish the ,body2 and the more ,labour there is upon any one1 the more substantial should be the ,dyet4 ,in the time of ,harvest ,i have often seen the bad ,effects of bad ,small ,beer among the ,workmen2 and in great ,families1 where that ,article has not been taken care of1 the ,apothecaries ,bills have amounted to twice as much more as the ,malt would have come to1 that would have kept the ,servants in strength and good health2 besides one thing more1 which ,i observed above1 good wholesome ,drink is seldom flung away by ,servants1 so that the sparing of a little ,malt ends in loss to the ,master4 ,where there is good ,cellaring1 therefore1 it is adviseable to brew a flock of ,small ,beer1 either in this ,month or ,october1 or in both ,months1 and to be kept in ,hogsheads1 if possible3 ,the ,beer brew'd in ,march to begin drawing in ,october1 and that brew'd in ,october to begin in ,march1 for ,summer drinking2 having this regard to the quantity1 that a ,family of the same number of working ,persons1 will drink a third more in ,summer than in ,winter1 ,if ,water happens to be of a hard nature1 it may be softened by setting it exposed to the ,air and ,sun1 and putting into it some ,pieces of soft ,chalk to infuse2 or else when the ,water is set on to boil1 for pouring upon the ,malt1 put into it a quantity of ,bran1 which will help a little to soften it4 ,i shall now mention two or three ,particulars relating to ,malt1 which may help those who are unacquainted with brewing3 ,in the first place1 the general ,distinctions1 between one ,malt and another1 is only that one is high dried1 the other low dried2 that which we call high dried1 will1 by brewing1 produce a ,liquor of a brown1 deep ,colour2 and the other1 which is the low dried1 will give us a ,liquor of a pale ,colour4 ,the first is dried in such a manner1 as may be said rather to be scorch'd than dried1 and will promote the ,gravel and ,stone1 and is much less nourishing than the low dried1 or pale ,malt1 as they call it2 for all ,corn in the most simple way is the most feeding to the ,body4 ,i have experienc'd too1 that the brown ,malt1 even tho' it be well brewed1 will sooner turn sharp than the pale ,malt1 if that be fairly brewed4 ,i am told1 that a ,gentleman in ,northamptonshire has dried ,malt upon the ,leads of a ,house1 and has made very good ,drink of it3 ,and the ,method of drying ,malt by hot ,air1 which was once proposed to the ,publick1 will do very well for a small quantity1 but 'tis much too tedious to be ever rendered profitable2 however1 any means that can be used to dry ,malt without parching of it1 will certainly contribute to the goodness of the ,malt4 ,at the ,greyhound at ,marlborough ,i have drank of the palest-colour'd ,ale ,i ever saw1 and the best tasted1 and the strongest that ,i have met with4 ,in that place they dry their ,malt very tenderly1 and brew with chalky ,water1 and their ,cellars are dug in ,chalk3 ,so at the ,crown at ,hockrell near ,bishop-,starford in ,hertfordshire1 is excellent ,beer of a pale ,colour1 strong1 and well tasted2 there the ,malt is tenderly dried and the ,soil chalky3 likewise at ,nottingham and ,derby they brew with pale ,malt1 chalky ,water1 and their ,cellars are dug in ,chalk4 ,these ,places are noted for the ,goodness of their ,ale all over ,england1 insomuch that it has been computed1 that there has been above two ,hundred ,thousand ,pounds worth of ,ale sold in and about ,london1 under the ,denomination of ,nottingham1 ,derby1 ,dorchester1 c4 in one ,year's time3 but it is not in ,london that we must expect to taste these ,liquors in perfection2 for it is rare to find any of them there without being adulterated1 or else such ,liquors are sold for them as are unskilful ,imitations of them2 and ,i may add1 are unwholesome into the bargain4 ,while ,i am writing this1 a ,gentleman of good ,judgment in this ,affair informs me1 that the ,brown ,malt he finds makes the best ,drink1 when it is brew'd with a coarse ,river ,water1 such as that of the ,river ,thames about ,london2 and that likewise being brew'd with such ,water1 it makes very good ,ale3 but that it will not keep above six ,months1 without turning stale1 and a little sharp1 even tho' he allows fourteen ,bushels to the ,hogshead4 ,he adds1 that he has try'd the high-dry'd ,malt to brew ,beer with for keeping1 and hopp'd it accordingly2 and yet he could never brew it so as to drink soft and mellow1 like that brew'd with ,pale ,malt4 ,there is an acid ,quality in the high-dry'd ,malt1 which occasions that ,distemper commonly called the ,heart-burn1 in those that drink of the ,ale or ,beer made of it4 ,when ,i mention ,malt1 in what ,i have already said above1 ,i mean only ,malt made of ,barley2 for ,wheat-malt1 ,pea-malt1 or these mix'd with ,barley-malt1 tho' they produce a high-colour'd ,liquor1 will keep many ,years1 and drink soft and smooth2 but then they have the ,mum-,flavour4 ,i have known some ,people1 who used brewing with high dry'd ,barley-malt1 to put a ,bag1 containing about three ,pints of ,wheat1 into every ,hogshead of ,drink1 and that has fined it1 and made it to drink mellow3 others ,i have seen put about three ,pints of ,wheat-malt into a ,hogshead1 which has produced the same ,effect4 ,but all ,malt-,liquors1 however they may be well-brew'd1 may be spoiled by bad ,cellaring1 and be now and then subject to ferment in the ,cask1 and consequently turn thick and sour4 ,the best way to help this1 and bring the ,drink to it self is to open the ,bung of the ,cask for two or three ,days1 and if that does not stop the ,fermentation1 then put about two or three ,pounds of ,oyster-shells wash'd and dry'd well in an ,oven1 and then beaten to fine ,pouder1 and stirring it a little1 it will presently settle the ,drink1 make it fine1 and take off the sharp ,taste of it2 and as soon as that is done1 draw it off into another ,vessel1 and put a small ,bag of ,wheat or ,wheat-malt into it1 as above directed1 or in proportion1 as the ,vessel is larger or smaller4 ,sometimes such ,fermentations will happen in ,drink1 by change of ,weather1 if it is in a bad ,cellar1 and it will in a few ,months fall fine of it self1 and grow mellow4 ,it is remarkable1 that high-dry'd ,malt should not be used in ,brewing till it has been ground ten ,days1 or a ,fortnight1 it yields much stronger ,drink than the same quantity of ,malt fresh ground2 but if you design to keep ,malt some time ground before you use it1 you must take care to keep it very dry1 and the ,air at that time should likewise be dry4 ,and as for ,pale ,malt1 which has not partaken so much of the ,fire1 it must not remain ground above a ,week before you use it4 ,as for ,hops1 the newest are much the best1 tho' they will remain very good two ,years2 but after that1 they begin to decay1 and lose their good ,flavour unless great ,quantities have been kept together2 for in that case they ,will keep much longer good than in small ,quantities4 ,these1 for their better preservation1 should be kept in a very dry ,place1 tho' the ,dealers in them rather chuse such ,places as are moderately between moist and dry1 that they may not lose of their ,weight4 ,i cannot help taking notice here of a ,method which was used to some stale and decay'd ,hops the last ,year #agbe1 to make them recover their ,bitterness2 which was to unbag them1 and sprinkle them with ,aloes and ,water1 which1 together with the badness of the ,malt of the same ,year's growth1 spoil'd great quantities of ,drink about ,london2 for even where the ,water1 the ,malt1 and the ,brewer1 and ,cellars are good1 a bad ,hop will spoil all3 ,so that every one of these ,particulars should be well-chosen before the ,brewing is set about1 or else we must expect but a bad ,account of our ,labour4 ,and so likewise the ,yeast or ,barm that you work your ,drink with1 must be well consider'd1 or a good ,brewing may be spoil'd by that alone2 and be sure that be always provided before you begin ,brewing1 for your ,wort will not stay for it4 ,in some remote ,places from ,towns it is practised to dip ,whisks into ,yeast1 and beat it well1 and so hang up the ,whisks with the ,yeast in them to dry2 and if there is no ,brewing till two ,months afterwards1 the beating and stirring one of these ,whisks in ,new ,wort1 will raise a ,working or ,fermentation in it4 ,it is a ,rule that all ,drink should be work'd well in the ,tun1 or ,keel1 before it be put in the ,vessel1 for else it will not easily grow fine4 ,some follow the ,rule of beating down the ,yeast pretty often while it is in the ,tun1 and keep it there working for two or three ,days1 observing to put it in the ,vessel just when the ,yeast begins to fall4 ,this ,drink is commonly very fine2 whereas that1 which is put into the ,vessel quickly after 'tis brew'd1 will not be fine in many ,months4 ,we may yet observe1 that with relation to the ,season for brewing of ,drink for keeping1 if the ,cellars are subject to the ,heat of the ,sun1 or warm ,summer ,air1 it is best to brew in ,october1 that the ,drink may have time to digest before the warm ,season comes on3 ,and if ,cellars are inclinable to ,damps1 and to receive ,water1 the best time is to brew in ,march1 and ,i know some experienced ,brewers1 who always chuse the brewing of ,pale ,malt in ,march1 and the ,brown in ,october2 for they guess that the ,pale ,malt1 being made with a lesser degree of ,fire than the other1 wants the ,summer ,season to ripen in2 and so on the contrary1 the ,brown having had a larger share of the ,fire to dry it1 is more capable of defending itself against the ,cold of the ,winter-,season4 ,but how far these ,reasons may be just1 ,i shall not pretend to determine2 but in such a ,work as this1 nothing should be omitted that may contribute to give the least ,hint towards meliorating so valuable a ,manufacture2 the ,artists in the ,brewing ,way are at liberty to judge as they please4 ,but when we have been careful in all the above ,particulars1 if the ,casks are not in good order1 still the ,brewing may be spoil'd4 ,new ,casks are apt to give ,drink an ill ,taste1 if they are not well scalded and season'd several days successively1 before they are put in use2 and for old ,casks1 if they stand any time out of use1 they are apt to grow musty3 unslack'd ,lime1 about a ,gallon to a ,hogshead1 with about six ,gallons of ,water put in with it1 and the ,hogshead presently stopp'd up1 will clear it of its ,taint1 if the same be repeated four or five times2 or burning of ,linnen dipp'd in ,brimstone1 to be close stopped in a ,cask1 three or four times repeated1 will do the same3 or else put ,water in your ,vessels1 and throw in some burning ,coals1 and stop them close1 will do the like1 if it be often repeated4 ,i have now but little more to say about the ,management of ,drink1 and that is concerning the ,bottling of it4 ,the ,bottles first must be well clean'd and dry'd2 for wet ,bottles will make the ,drink turn mouldy1 or motherry1 as they call it2 and by wet ,bottles1 many ,vessels of good ,drink are spoiled3 but if the ,bottles are clean and dry1 yet if the ,corks are not new and found1 the ,drink is still liable to be damaged2 for if the ,air can get into the ,bottles1 the ,drink will grow flat1 and will never rise4 ,i have known many who have flatter'd themselves that they knew how to be saving1 and have used old ,corks on this occasion1 that have spoiled as much ,liquor as has stood them in four or five ,pounds1 only for want of laying out three or four ,shillings4 ,if ,bottles are cork'd as they should be1 it is hard to pull out the ,corks without a ,screw1 and to be sure to draw the ,cork without breaking1 the ,screw ought to go through the ,cork1 and then the ,air must necessarily find a ,passage where the ,screw has pass'd1 and therefore the ,cork is good for nothing2 or if a ,cork has once been in a ,bottle1 and has been drawn without a ,screw1 yet that ,cork will turn musty as soon as it is exposed to the ,air1 and will communicate its ill ,flavour to the ,bottle where it is next put1 and spoil the ,drink that way4 ,in the choice of ,corks1 chuse those that are soft1 and clear from ,specks1 and lay them in ,water a day or two before you use them2 but let them dry again before you put them in the ,bottles1 lest they should happen to turn mouldy3 with this care you may make good ,drink1 and preserve it to answer your expectation4 ,in the bottling of ,drink1 you may also observe1 that the top and middle of the ,hogshead is the strongest1 and will sooner rise in the ,bottles than the bottom3 ,and when once you begin to bottle a ,vessel of any ,liquor1 be sure not to leave it till all is complcated1 for else you will have some of one ,taste1 and some of another4 ,if you find that a ,vessel of ,drink begins to grow flat1 whilst it is in common draught1 bottle it1 and into every ,bottle put a piece of ,loaf-,sugar1 about the quantity of a ,walnut1 which will make the ,drink rise and come to itself3 and to forward its ripening1 you may set some ,bottles in ,hay in a warm ,place2 but ,straw will not assist its ripening4 ,where there are not good ,cellars1 ,i have known ,holes sunk in the ,ground1 and large ,oil ,jars put into them1 and the ,earth filled close about the sides3 ,one of these ,jars may hold about a dozen quart ,bottles1 and will keep the ,drink very well2 but the tops of the ,jars must be kept close cover'd up4 ,and in ,winter time1 when the ,weather is frosty1 shut up all the ,lights or ,windows into such ,cellars1 and cover them close with fresh ,horse-,dung1 or ,horse-,litter2 but 'tis much better to have no ,lights or ,windows at all to any ,cellar1 for the reasons ,i have given above4 ,if there has been opportunity of brewing a good stock of ,small ,beer in ,march and ,october1 some of it may be bottled at six ,months end1 putting into every ,bottle a lump of ,loaf-,sugar as big as a ,walnut2 this especially will be very refreshing ,drink in the ,summer3 ,or if you happen to brew in ,summer1 and are desirous of brisk ,small ,beer1 bottle it1 as above1 as soon as it has done working4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,april4 ,from the beginning of this ,month the ,perch is in great ,perfection1 and holds good till ,winter4 ,one of the ways of dressing this ,fish1 according to the ,hollanders1 and which is much admired by ,travellers1 is after the following manner1 and is called ,water-,soochy4 ,to make a ,water-,soochy4 ,take ,perch about five ,inches long1 scale and clean them well2 then lay them in a ,dish1 and pour ,vinegar upon them1 and let them lie an ,hour in it2 after which put them into a ,skillet with ,water and ,salt1 some ,parsley ,leaves and ,parsley-,roots well wash'd and scraped3 let these boil over a quick ,fire till they are enough1 and then pour the ,fish1 ,roots1 and ,water into a ,soop-,dish1 and serve them up hot with a ,garnish about the ,dish of ,lemon1 sliced4 ,these ,fish and ,roots are commonly eaten with ,bread and ,butter in ,holland1 or there may be melted ,butter in a little ,bason for those who chuse it4 ,it is to be noted1 that the ,parsley-,roots must be taken before they run to ,seed2 and if they happen to be very large1 they should be boiled by themselves1 for they will require more boiling than the ,fish1 ,this ,i had from ,mr4 ,rozelli at the ,hague4 ,the following ,receipt for dressing of ,perch1 ,i had likewise from the same ,person1 and is an excellent ,dish4 ,to prepare ,perch with ,mushrooms4 ,pick1 and clean1 and cut your ,mushrooms into small pieces1 and put them in a ,saucepan to stew tender without any ,liquor1 but what will come from them2 then pour off their ,liquor1 and put a little ,cream to them2 having ready at the same time a ,brace of large ,perch well scaled1 wash'd1 and cut in ,fillets or thick ,slices1 and parboil'd3 ,put your ,perch thus prepared to your ,mushrooms1 and with them the ,yolks of three ,eggs beaten1 some ,parsley boil'd and cut small1 some ,nutmeg grated1 a little ,salt1 and a little ,lemon-,juice3 keep all these stirring gently over a slow ,fire1 taking care not to break your ,fish2 and when they are enough1 garnish them with ,slices of ,lemon and pickled ,barberries4 ,the following general ,sauce ,i had from the same ,person2 it is always ready to be used with every kind of ,flesh1 ,fowl1 or ,fish that require rich ,sauces1 and will keep good twelve ,months4 ,a ,travelling ,sauce4 ,take two ,quarts of ,claret1 a quarter of a ,pint of ,vinegar1 and as much ,verjuice2 put these together in a new ,stone-,jar that will admit of being stopp'd close3 ,put to this a quarter of a ,pound of ,salt that has been well dry'd over the ,fire1 an ,ounce of ,black-,pepper1 a ,drachm of ,nutmeg beaten fine1 and as much ,cloves1 a ,scruple of ,ginger1 two or three little ,bits of dry'd ,orange-,peel1 half an ,ounce of ,mustard-,seed bruised1 half a dozen ,shallots bruised a little1 five or six ,bay-,leaves1 a little ,sprig of ,sweet ,basil1 or ,sweet ,marjoram1 a ,sprig of ,thyme1 and a little ,cinnamon2 then stop your ,jar close1 and let the ,mixture infuse for twenty-four ,hours upon hot ,embers3 when this is done1 strain your ,composition through a ,linnen ,cloth1 till you have express'd as much ,liquor as possible1 and put it in a dry ,stone ,bottle or ,jar1 and stop it close as soon as 'tis cold4 ,you must keep this in a dry ,place1 and it will remain good twelve ,months4 ,this is a good ,companion for ,travellers1 who more frequently find good ,meat than good ,cooks4 ,my ,author adds1 that those who are ,admirers of the ,taste of ,garlick1 may add it to this ,sauce1 or diminish1 or leave cut any particular ,ingredient that they do not approve of4 ,it may also be made of ,water only1 or of ,verjuice1 or of ,wine1 or of ,orange or ,lemon-,juice2 but if it is made of ,water1 it will keep but a ,month good3 if it be made of ,verjuice1 it will last good three ,months2 if we make it of ,vinegar1 it will last a ,year2 or of ,wine1 it will last as long4 ,use a little of this at a time1 stirring it well when you use it4 ,in this ,month ,i likewise judge it will be a good ,season to make the following curious ,preparation for the use of ,gentlemen that travel2 the use of which ,i esteem to be of extraordinary ,service to such as travel in wild and open ,countries1 where few or no ,provisions are to be met with2 and it will be of no less ,benefit to such ,families as have not immediate ,recourse to ,markets1 for the ,readiness of it for making of ,soups1 or its ,use where ,gravey is required3 and particularly to those that travel1 the lightness of its ,carriage1 the small room it takes up1 and the easy way of putting it in use1 renders it extremely serviceable4 ,this is what one may call ,veal-,glue4 ,to make ,veal-,glue1 or ,cake-,soup1 to be carried in the ,pocket4 ,take a ,leg of ,veal1 strip it of the ,skin and the ,fat1 then take all the ,muscular or ,fleshy ,parts from the ,bones2 boil this ,flesh gently in such a quantity of ,water1 and so long a time1 till the ,liquor will make a strong ,jelly when 'tis cold3 this you may try by taking out a small ,spoonful now and then1 and letting it cool4 ,here it is to be supposed1 that tho' it will jelly presently in small quantities1 yet all the juice of the ,meat may not be extracted1 however1 when you find it very strong1 strain the ,liquor thro' a ,sieve1 and let it settle2 then provide a large ,stew-pan with ,water1 and some ,china-,cups1 or glazed ,earthen-,ware2 fill these ,cups with the ,jelly taken clear from the ,settling1 and set them in the ,stew-pan of ,water1 and let the ,water boil gently till the ,jelly becomes thick as ,glue3 after which1 let them stand to cool1 and then turn out the ,glue upon a piece of new ,flannel1 which will draw out the ,moisture2 turn them in six or eight ,hours1 and put them upon a fresh ,flannel1 and so continue to do till they are quite dry1 and keep it in a dry warm ,place3 this will harden so much1 that it will be stiff and hard as ,glue in a little time1 and may be carry'd in the ,pocket without ,inconvenience4 ,we are to use this by boiling about a ,pint of ,water1 and pouring it upon a piece of the ,glue or ,cake1 of the bigness of a small ,walnut1 and stirring it with a ,spoon till the ,cake dissolves1 which will make very strong good ,broth4 ,as for the ,seasoning ,part1 every one may add ,pepper and ,salt as they please1 for there must be nothing of that kind put among the ,veal when we make the ,glue1 for any thing of that sort would make it mouldy4 ,some of this sort of ,cake-,gravey has lately been sold1 as ,i am inform'd1 at some of the ,taverns near ,temple-,bar1 where1 ,i suppose1 it may now be had4 ,as ,i have observ'd above1 that there is nothing of ,seasoning in this ,soup1 so there may be always added what we desire1 either of ,spices or ,herbs1 to make it savoury to the ,palate2 but it must be noted1 that all the ,herbs that are used on this occasion1 must be boiled tender in plain ,water1 and that ,water must be used to pour upon the ,cake ,gravey instead of simple ,water3 so may a ,dish of good ,soup be made without trouble1 only allowing the ,proportion of ,cake-,gravey answering to the abovesaid ,direction4 ,or if ,gravey be wanted for ,sauce1 double the ,quantity may be used that is prescribed for ,broth or ,soup4 ,i am inform'd by a ,person of ,honour1 that upon this ,foundation1 there has been made a ,cake-,gravey of ,beef1 which for high ,sauces and strong ,stomachs1 is still of good use2 and therefore ,i shall here give the ,method of it4 ,to make ,cake-,soup of ,beef1 c4 ,take a ,leg1 or what they call in some ,places a ,shin of ,beef1 prepare it as prescribed above for the ,leg of ,veal1 and use the muscular ,parts only1 as directed in the foregoing ,receipt2 do every thing as abovemention'd1 and you will have a ,beef-,glue1 which1 for ,sauces1 may be more desirable in a ,country-,house1 as ,beef is of the strongest nature of any ,flesh4 ,some prescribe to add to the ,flesh of the ,leg of ,beef1 the ,flesh of two old ,hares1 and of old ,cocks to strengthen it the more2 this may be done at pleasure1 but the ,foundation of all these ,cake ,graveys or ,glues is the first4 ,these indeed are good for ,soups and ,sauces1 and may be enrich'd by ,cellary1 ,cherville1 beat ,chards1 ,leeks1 or other ,soup-,herbs4 ,a little of this is also good to put into ,sauces1 either of ,flesh1 ,fish1 or ,fowl1 and will make a fine mixture with the ,travelling ,sauce4 ,so that whenever there is mentioned the ,use of ,gravey in any of the ,receipts contained in this ,treatise1 this may be used on ,feast-days1 and the ,mushroom ,gravey1 or ,travelling ,sauce on ,fast-days4 ,this is also a time of the ,year when potted ,meats begin to come in fashion2 to do which1 the following ,receipt may be an ,example4 ,to pot a ,leg of ,beef to imitate potted ,venison1 from ,col4 ,bradbury of ,wicken-,hall4 ,provide a ,leg of ,beef1 and take off the ,skin as whole as you can1 then cut off all the ,flesh1 and season it with ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,allspice2 then break the ,bones and take out what ,marrow you can to mix among your slices of ,beef1 which must be put in a deep ,earthen ,pot2 cover then the whole with the ,skin1 and lay the ,bones over that1 covering all with ,paper1 and tying it down close2 after which1 bake it with great ,bread1 and let it stand in the ,oven all ,night4 ,when this is done1 take off the ,bones and the ,skin1 and clear it from the ,liquor as well as you can1 then put the ,meat into a ,wooden ,bowl1 and beat it as small as possible with a ,wooden ,pestle1 often putting in some ,butter1 and some of the ,fat of the ,marrow1 which will swim upon the ,gravey1 but suffer none of the ,gravey to go in with it3 when this is beat enough1 while it is warm1 butter the ,bottom and ,sides of the ,pan which you design to keep it in1 and press down your ,meat in it as hard as possible2 when that is done1 cover it with melted ,butter4 ,if you would have your ,meat look red1 rub it with a little ,salt-peter before you season it4 ,by the same ,method you may pot ,venison1 ,mutton1 or what ,flesh else you please1 observing that 'tis only the fleshy or muscular ,parts that are used in that way2 and that they must be season'd and baked till they are tender1 and then beat into a sort of ,paste1 with a little ,butter added now and then while the ,meat is beating4 ,keep these ,meats in a cool dry ,place1 and you may preserve them good several ,weeks4 ,if you desire to pot a ,hare1 take the following ,receipt4 ,to ,pot a ,hare1 from the same4 ,take a ,hare and bone it1 then mince the ,flesh very small1 with a ,pound of the ,fat of ,bacon2 after which1 beat these in a ,mortar1 and then season your ,meat with ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,cloves and ,mace1 adding to it an ,ounce of ,salt peter3 mix all these well1 and let the ,meat lie twenty-four ,hours1 then put it in an earthen glazed ,pot1 and bake it three ,hours2 after which1 take it out1 and dry it from the ,gravey1 then return it to the ,pot again1 and then cover it with clarified ,butter4 ,this ,receipt might have been put in some of the former ,months1 as the ,hare is then in season2 but as it depends upon the foregoing ,receipt1 ,i thought convenient to insert it in this ,place3 however1 a ,jack-,hare may now be dress'd in this fashion1 but the ,doe-,hares are now either with ,young or have ,young ones1 so that they are out of ,season4 ,these ,potted ,meats are useful in ,housekeeping1 being always ready for the ,table3 ,so likewise the following ,receipt for ,collar'd ,beef is of the same service4 ,to ,collar ,beef4 ,get the ,rand or ,flank of ,beef cut about a foot in length2 bone it1 and then mix two ,ounces of ,salt peter1 with a good handful of common ,salt3 after which1 carbonade the outward ,skin of the ,beef1 and rub the whole well with the ,salts1 letting it lie for twenty-four hours in ,salt before you collar it2 but observing to turn it twice a day1 at least1 whilst it is in ,salt4 ,when it has lain thus to season1 get some ,sweet-,marjoram1 a little ,winter-,savoury1 some ,red ,sage-leaves1 and a little ,thyme1 and shred them small2 among which put an ,ounce of ,pepper ground small1 half an ,ounce of ,cloves and ,mace beat1 and a ,handful of ,salt2 mix these together1 and stew the mixture thick over the inside of your ,meat1 that when it is roll'd up1 it may be equally bound in with the ,turnings of the ,beef3 then provide some thin ,slices of the same ,beef to lay before the first ,turn1 that the ,collar may not be hollow in the middle4 ,this must be roll'd as hard as possible1 so that every ,part is equally press'd to each other2 then get some ,tape about an ,inch wide1 and bind it hard about your ,collar of ,beef1 in a ,screw-like manner1 till you have closed your ,collar from top to bottom as tight as can be2 observing to bind the top and bottom in an extraordinary manner with strong ,packthread4 ,put this in a glazed earthen ,pan1 with as much ,claret as will cover it1 putting over the whole some coarse ,paste1 and send it to the ,oven to stand five or six ,hours4 ,when it is baked enough1 take out your ,collar1 and set it upright till it be cold1 and then take off the ,fillets1 or the ,tape that braced it together1 and keep it for use4 ,this is cut in thin ,slices1 and eaten with ,vinegar1 as are most of the ,collar'd meats and ,potted meats4 ,this ,example is enough for any one either to ,collar other ,meats by1 only observing that such ,flesh as is tender1 as ,pig and a ,breast of ,veal1 must not be salted before they are collar'd1 and the ,spice or ,herbs to be roll'd up with them1 may be at discretion2 but for the boiling or baking1 the ,time must be in proportion to their ,size1 or natural ,tenderness4 ,it must nevertheless be observed1 that they must be baked or boiled till all the ,gravey is out of them2 for the ,gravey being in them1 will contribute to their spoiling by growing musty1 or otherways foetid4 ,we have now ,flounders in good ,perfection1 and besides the common ,way of ,dressing them1 either by boiling them1 as mention'd in the former ,months1 they are also sometimes fried1 and sometimes broil'd2 but the following is after such a manner1 as is extremely agreeable1 and will preserve them good a long time4 ,these1 or other ,fish fry'd1 are kept after the same manner3 the ,receipt ,i had from a worthy ,gentleman1 where ,i eat some in great ,perfection4 ,pickled ,fish4 ,from ,aaron ,harrington1 ,esq4 ,let the ,fish be fry'd after the common manner1 and when they are cold lay them in a ,dish1 and pour on the following ,pickle3 ,water and ,vinegar equal quantities1 ,jamaica ,pepper1 ,pepper and ,salt1 a little ,mace1 a few ,bay-leaves1 and some ,white-wine3 when these have boiled together1 pour the ,pickle on the ,fish while it is not too hot2 these eat extremely well4 ,trouts are now in good perfection in the ,south parts of our ,country2 that is1 where the ,weather has been favourable in the former ,month2 and then besides the common way of boiling them we may have them potted1 which will make them as valuable as potted ,charrs1 which are a sort of ,trout4 ,to pott ,trouts4 ,from ,mrs4 ,r4 ,s4 of ,preston in ,lancashire4 ,scale and clean your ,trouts very well1 wash them in ,vinegar1 and slit them down the ,back1 after which put ,pepper and ,salt into the ,incision1 and on their ,outsides1 and let them lie upon a ,dish three ,hours2 then lay them in an earthen glaz'd ,pan1 with pieces of ,butter upon them1 and put them in an ,oven two ,hours1 if they are ,trouts fourteen ,inches long1 or less in proportion1 taking care to tie some ,paper close over the ,pan4 ,when this is done1 take away from them all the ,liquor1 and put them in a ,pot1 and as soon as they are quite cold1 pour some clarified ,butter upon them to cover them3 ,these will eat as well as potted ,charrs4 ,some will take out the ,bone upon slitting the ,back1 and these have been often taken for ,charrs2 tho' ,i don't know above two ,places where the ,charrs are1 one is a ,pool where a ,river or ,brook runs thro' in ,lancashire1 and the other is in a ,pool at ,naant1 within four ,miles of ,caernarvon4 ,but the ,charr is of the ,trout kind1 and it must be a good judge in ,fish to distinguish one from another2 however1 there is some small difference1 which the ,criticks in fishing take notice of4 ,fish may also be kept in ,pickle several ,weeks1 as the ,jack and ,trout especially are agreeable ,varieties4 ,this time is a proper ,season for making a pleasant and strong ,wine of ,malaga ,raisins1 which will keep good many ,years1 and among the best ,judges of ,wine is much admired2 it is not unlike a strong ,mountain ,wine3 at this time also the ,raisins are very cheap4 ,to make ,raisin ,wine4 ,take half a hundred weight of ,malaga ,raisins1 pick them clean from the ,stalks1 and chop the ,raisins small1 then put them into a large ,tub1 and boil ten ,gallons of ,river ,water1 or such ,water as is soft1 and pour it hot upon them2 let this be stirr'd twice or thrice every ,day for twelve ,days successively1 and then pour the ,liquor into a ,cask and make a ,toast of ,bread1 and while it is hot1 spread it on both sides with ,yeast or ,barm1 and put it into the ,vessel to the ,wine1 and it will make it ferment gently1 which you may know by its making a hissing ,noise2 during the time of working1 the ,bung of the ,vessel must be left open1 and as soon as that is over1 stop it up close4 ,this will be fine and fit for ,drinking in about four ,months time2 but if you make twice the quantity1 it should stand five or six ,months before you broach it3 ,observe that you set it in a good ,cellar1 such as ,i have mentioned in the ,month of ,march1 under the ,article of ,brewing4 ,to make ,fronteniac ,wine4 ,the foregoing ,receipt must be followed in every particular1 only when you put it into the ,vessel1 add to it some of the ,syrup of the white ,fronteniac ,grape1 which we may make in ,england1 tho' the ,season is not favourable enough to ripen that sort of ,grape2 for in a bad ,year1 when the white ,fronteniac1 or the ,muscadella ,grapes are hard and unripe1 and without ,flavour1 yet if you bake them they will take the rich ,flavour1 which a good share of ,sun would have given them4 ,you may either bake the ,fronteniac ,grapes with ,sugar1 or boil them to make a ,syrup of their ,juice1 about a ,quart of which ,syrup will be enough to put to five ,quarts of the ,raisin ,wine4 ,when these have work'd together1 and stood a time1 as directed in the foregoing ,receipt1 you will have a ,fronteniac ,wine of as rich a ,flavour as the ,french sort1 besides the ,pleasure of knowing that all the ,ingredients are wholesome4 ,this ,month is the principal time for ,asparagus1 which every one knows how to prepare in the common way2 but there are some particulars relating to the fitting them for the ,table1 which ,i had from a curious ,gentleman at ,antwerp1 which ,i shall here set down4 ,to preserve ,asparagus4 ,cut away all the hard part of your ,asparagus1 and just boil them up with ,butter and ,salt1 then fling them into cold ,water1 and presently take them out again and let them drain2 when they are cold1 put them in a ,gallipot1 large enough for them to lie without bending1 putting to them some whole ,cloves2 some ,salt1 and as much ,vinegar and ,water1 in equal quantities1 as will cover them half an ,inch2 then take a single ,linnen ,cloth1 and let it into the ,pot upon the ,water1 and pour melted ,butter over it1 and keep them in a temperate ,place3 ,when you use them1 lay them to steep in warm ,water1 and dress them as you would do fresh ,asparagus4 ,it is to be noted1 that in ,holland1 and most places abroad1 the ,asparagus is always white1 which is done according to a method that ,i have inserted in my other ,works2 the method of bringing them to ,table the foreign way1 is to serve them with melted ,butter1 ,salt1 ,vinegar1 and ,nutmeg grated4 ,the ,tops or ,heads of ,asparagus being broken in small pieces and boil'd1 are used in ,soups like green ,pease4 ,asparagus in ,cream4 ,from the same4 ,break the ,tops of your ,asparagus in small ,pieces1 then blanch them a little in boiling ,water1 or parboil them1 after which put them in a ,stew-,pan or ,frying-,pan with ,butter or ,hog's-,lard1 and let them remain a little while over a brisk ,fire1 taking care that they are not too greasy1 but well drain'd2 then put them in a clean ,stew-,pan with some ,milk and ,cream1 a gentle ,seasoning of ,salt and ,spice1 with a small ,bunch of sweet ,herbs2 and just when they are enough1 add to them the ,yolks of two or three ,eggs beaten1 with a little ,cream to bind your ,sauce4 ,the ,greens1 which are now fit for boiling1 are ,sprouts of ,cabbages1 and young ,cabbage-,plants1 which every one knows how to prepare4 ,there is also ,spinage1 which is best stew'd without any ,water1 its own ,juice being sufficient2 and we have still plenty of ,lupines1 that is1 the flowring ,stalks of ,turnips1 which eat very agreeably2 they should be gather'd about the length of ,asparagus1 when the ,tops are knotted for flowering1 and the strings in the outside of the ,stalks stripp'd from them2 then tie them in ,bunches1 as you do ,asparagus1 and put them in boiling ,water with some ,salt1 and let them boil three or four ,minutes1 then lay them to drain1 without pressing1 and serve them to ,table as you would do ,asparagus4 ,the same way is used in the management of ,brocoli4 ,the middle of this ,month the ,cowslip is in ,flower1 or as some call it the ,peigle2 and now is the ,season to make a most pleasant ,wine of the ,flowers4 ,this ,receipt is the best ,i have met with4 ,to make ,peigle1 or ,cowslip ,wine1 ,from ,mrs4 ,e4 ,b4 ,to three ,gallons of ,wine1 put six ,pounds of fine ,sugar1 boil these together half an hour1 and as the ,scum rises1 take it off2 then set the ,liquor to cool1 and when it is quite cold1 take a ,spoonful of the best ,ale-,yeast1 and beat it well with three ,ounces of ,syrup of ,citron1 or ,syrup of ,lemon2 mix these very well together with the ,liquor2 and then put into it a ,pound and three quarters of the yellow part of the ,cowflip1 or ,peigle ,flowers1 which must be cut from the ,stalks a little beforehand1 but no other part must be used3 let these infuse and work three days in an ,earthen ,vessel1 cover'd with a ,cloth2 then strain them1 and put your ,liquor into a clean dry ,cask1 and let it stand to settle three ,weeks or a ,month before you bottle it4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,may4 ,as this is the busy ,month in the ,dairy1 ,i shall here insert the ,remarks ,i have by me concerning the making of ,cheeses2 and in this ,work it is first necessary to know how to manage the ,rennet4 ,the ,rennet is made of the ,calves ,bag1 which is taken as soon as the ,calf is kill'd1 and scour'd inside and outside with ,salt1 after having first discharg'd it of the ,curd1 which is always found in it2 this ,curd must likewise be well wash'd in a ,cullender with ,water1 and the ,hairs pick'd out of it till it becomes very white1 then return the ,curd again into the ,bag1 and add to it two good ,handfuls of ,salt1 and shut the ,mouth of the ,bag close with a ,skewer1 then lay the ,bag in an ,earthen-,pan1 and cover it close1 and keep it in a dry place2 this will remain fit for use twelve ,months4 ,when you would use it1 boil a ,quart of ,water1 after you have salted it1 so as to bear an ,egg1 and letting it stand to be quite cold1 pour it into the ,bag1 and prick the ,bag full of very small ,holes1 and lay it in a clean ,pan for use4 ,while this ,rennet is fresh1 a ,spoonful of the ,liquor will turn or set about sixteen or twenty ,gallons of ,milk2 but as it is longer kept1 it grows weaker1 and must be used in greater quantity3 this ,rennet will last good about a ,month4 ,this is the ,essex and ,hertfordshire way4 ,another way of preparing of ,rennet ,bags1 is to take the ,calves ,bag1 and wash and scour it with ,salt1 and the ,curd likewise1 as directed above2 and then salting it very well1 hang it up in the ,corner of a ,kitchen ,chimney1 and dry it2 and as soon as you want to use it1 boil ,water and ,salt1 as before1 and fill the ,bag with it1 making small ,holes in the ,bag1 as before directed1 and keeping it in a clean ,pan4 ,it is to be noted1 that the ,bag of the ,calf1 which is the part that receives the ,milk1 is so disposed1 as to change the ,milk into ,curd1 as soon as it is received into it2 and the ,curd1 which is found in it1 partaking of that quality of the ,bag1 which disposes it to harden the ,milk2 these are therefore to be preserv'd for the same use1 when we employ common ,milk to be made into ,curd3 but as the ,calves ,bag is warm1 when it naturally receives the ,milk from the ,cow1 and it then curdles in it2 so1 when we want to set or turn ,milk1 for ,cheese or other use1 we must have the ,milk warm as one may guess the ,body of the ,calf was1 and the ,milk was likewise1 when the ,calf receiv'd it from the ,cow4 ,there is great danger if the ,milk be too hot when the ,rennet is put to it1 for then it sets or turns to ,curd very quick1 and the ,cheese will be hard2 but it is good to let the ,milk be of such a warmth as not to come too soon1 as it is called in the ,dairies1 but to have it of such a warmth1 as to let the ,curd set easily1 and come moderately1 for the quicker the ,curd comes1 the harder it is1 and the harder the ,curd is1 the harder is the ,cheese4 ,again1 we must have some regard to the ,pasture where our ,cows feed2 those that feed in rank ,grass have more watery parts in their ,milk than those ,cows which feed on short ,grass3 and sometimes1 as ,i have observed before1 in my other ,works1 the ,cows feed upon ,crow ,garlick1 or the ,alliaria1 or ,sauce alone1 or ,jack in the ,hedge1 or ,goose-grass1 or ,clivers1 or ,rennet ,wort1 and their ,milk will either be ill tasted1 or else turn or curd of itself1 altho' the ,cow has had a due time after ,calving2 and if the ,goose-grass or ,clivers happen to be the occasion of the turning of the ,milk1 then a less quantity of ,rennet should be used3 for the only use of ,rennet is to fix the ,milk1 and turn it to ,curd1 and if already there is near an equivalent for ,rennet in the ,milk1 by the ,cow's eating such ,herbs1 then a little of it will do4 ,but as ,i have observ'd above1 where ,cattle feed upon long rank ,grass1 the ,milk is watery1 and does not contain two thirds of the ,cream1 or ,richness that there is in the same quantity of ,milk from ,cows fed upon short fine ,grass3 ,so that if one was to make ,cheese1 one would chuse the ,milk of ,cows that fed upon the purest fine ,grass4 ,here the ,milk would be rich1 and if the ,rennet is good and well proportion'd1 the ,cheese will be so too4 ,it is to be observ'd likewise1 that when ,cows feed upon such ,weeds as ,i have mention'd1 ,i mean the ,clivers1 which turn their ,milk1 the ,curd is always hard and scatter'd1 and never comes into a ,body1 as the pure ,milk will do that is set with ,rennet1 and consequently the ,cheese will be hard4 ,there is one thing likewise to be taken notice of1 with regard to the ,rennet1 that as the ,bag1 of which it is made1 happens to be good1 so is the ,rennet good in proportion4 ,i mean the ,bag is good when the ,milk of the ,cow1 that suckled the ,calf1 is good2 for the goodness of the ,feed of the ,cow does not only dispose the ,body of the ,calf to produce a gentleness or softness in the ,acid1 which promotes the curdling of the ,milk1 when it is received into the ,body of the ,calf1 but makes the ,rennet more tender to the setting of the ,cheese-,curd1 and so the ,cheese will consequently be the better for it3 ,and ,i judge that one reason why the ,suffolk ,cheese is so much noted for its hardness1 is on account of the badness of the ,rennet1 tho' it is certain1 that the worst ,cheeses of that ,country are made of ,skim-,milk2 however1 the nature of the ,milk is such1 according to my ,observation1 that it makes very rich ,butter1 but the ,cream rises on it so quickly1 and so substantially1 that it leaves no fatness or richness in the other part1 which we call the ,skim-,milk1 but that remains little better than ,water3 so that 'tis no wonder in this case1 and thro' the rank ,feed of the ,cows1 that the ,cheeses of those parts are not good4 ,i think however the ,cheese of ,suffolk might be help'd in a good measure1 if the ,farmers there were to have their ,rennet ,bags from places where the ,grass was short and fine2 for ,i guess then1 from the above reasoning1 that the ,curd would be of a more tender nature1 or not of so binding a quality as it now is1 and the ,cheese consequently would be the better4 ,but besides the goodness of the ,milk and the ,rennet1 if a ,cheese is over press'd1 it will be hard and unpleasant2 but it is to be remark'd1 that all ,cheeses that are hard press'd will keep longer than those that are gently press'd1 and bear transporting thro' the hottest ,climates1 which the more tender-made ,cheeses will not without corrupting1 unless they are put into ,oil4 ,there is one thing which ,i may observe particularly1 relating to the ,rennet ,bag2 which is1 that the ,calf should suck it full about an hour before it is kill'd1 that there may be more and fresher ,curd in it2 tho' in the killing of ,calves it is a ,rule to let the ,calf fast some time before killing1 which we are told contributes to the ,whiteness of the ,flesh4 ,again1 it would be an advantage in the making of ,cheese to have your ,cattle all of one sort1 and to feed all upon the same sort of ,pasture2 for when it happens to be otherwise1 the ,cheeses are apt to decay1 from the different ,tempers of the ,milk2 but let our ,milk be what it will1 be careful of the former ,method prescribed1 i4e4 to break the ,curd by gentle degrees1 and as equally as possible every where3 the little pains extraordinary will be paid in the goodness of the ,cheese1 for then it will not be full of ,eyes or ,hollows1 and will sell the better4 ,but besides the way of preparing the ,rennet1 as ,i have here set down1 it is practised to make an artificial ,rennet1 which will do very well for making of ,cheese2 and that is1 to boil the ,cliver1 or as some call it ,goose-grass1 or others ,rennet-,wort1 in ,water1 and you may add some ,tops of ,sweet ,bryar2 about a ,spoonful of which ,decoction1 or boiled ,liquor1 will turn a ,pail-full of ,milk1 of about five ,gallons1 without any other help2 but in the ,preparation of this1 as well as the other1 for the ,improvement of the ,cheeses1 in giving them rich ,flavours1 it is adviseable to insert1 while we are boiling the ,waters for them1 either some of such ,sweet ,herbs as we like1 or such ,spices as we most covet the taste of4 ,as for the famous ,stilton ,cheese1 which ,i have already published the ,receipt of1 we are to make the ,rennet strong of ,mace1 by boiling the ,mace in the ,salt and ,water1 for without that is done1 the ,cheese will not have the true ,relish that the first famous ,stilton ,cheeses had2 and without the ,people of ,stilton keep up the antient way of making it1 agreeable to the old ,receipt1 they must of necessity lose the ,reputation they have gain'd by their ,cheeses4 ,i shall not pretend to affirm why the ,cheeses now in that ,town are not generally so good as they were formerly2 but perhaps it is because some of the ,cheese-,sellers there depend upon the reputation of the first ,cheeses1 and now buy ,cheeses from other parts1 where nothing of the true ,receipt is known but the ,figure4 ,however1 it would be injustice in me if ,i did not take notice1 that the ,master of the ,blue-,bell ,inn in ,stilton provided me with one that was excellent in its way1 and yearly furnishes as many ,customers with them as give him timely ,notice3 ,but as these ,cheeses require time in the ,dairy1 before they are fit for eating1 and the ,season of making them is in the ,bloom of the ,year1 so it is necessary to speak for them betimes1 to have them to one's mind4 ,i shall not give the ,receipt of it at this time1 as it has already fallen into a good number of hands with my former ,pieces1 and has been thought good enough to have been copied from me1 with many other ,articles1 and published by ,mr4 ,lawrence4 ,i shall proceed therefore to give the ,receipts for making of some other kinds of ,cheeses1 which yet have not appear'd in the ,world1 which ,i have collected from some of the best ,dairies in ,england4 ,the following is the famous ,buckingham ,cheese1 which ,i had from ,mr4 ,foord1 a very curious ,gentleman of that place4 ,to make ,buckingham ,cheese4 ,from ,mr4 ,foord of that ,place4 ,prepare a ,cheese ,vat or ,cheese ,mote of a square ,figure1 six ,inches over1 and nine ,inches deep1 full of small ,holes for the convenience of letting out the ,whey when the ,curd is put into it3 ,then take the ,night's ,cream1 and mix it with the ,morning's ,milk1 and put the ,rennet to it to cool4 ,when the ,curd is come1 take it gently from the ,whey1 and fill the ,cheese ,vat with it1 and lay a ,board up on the ,curd1 and as that sinks1 fill up the ,cheese ,vat with fresh ,curds2 this should be done once every ,hour till ,night4 ,the next ,day turn your ,cheese upside down1 and continue turning it every ,night and ,morning till it shrinks from the ,vat or ,cheese ,mote1 and is stiff enough to take out without breaking1 and then lay it upon the ,shelf to be turn'd1 and shift it ,night and ,morning till 'tis dry for use4 ,this ,mr4 ,foord tells me is the best sort of ,cheese he has met with in ,england4 ,the following ,i have experienced to be an extraordinary ,cheese2 in some places 'tis call'd the ,golden ,cheese1 and in others the ,marygold ,cheese1 which it is properly4 ,the ,juice of the ,marygolds adds a very great richness to the ,milk1 and contributes almost as much to it as ,cream would do4 ,the following is the ,receipt to make it4 ,to make ,marygold ,cheese4 ,gather your ,marygold ,flowers in a dry ,day1 and pick the golden-colour'd ,leaves from them1 7these we call the ,petals of the ,flowers37 ,as soon as you have pick'd a sufficient quantity of these ,leaves for your use1 bruise them in a ,mortar1 or grind them1 if you have ,conveniency1 and strain out the ,juice2 this ,juice1 when you put the ,rennet to the ,milk1 must be put into the ,milk1 and stirr'd into it4 ,the ,milk must then be set1 and as soon as the ,curd is come1 break it gently1 and as equally as possible1 and put it into the ,cheese ,vat1 and press it with a gentle ,weight1 letting the bottom part of the ,vat have such a number of ,holes in it1 as will let out the ,whey easily1 or else a ,spout to carry off the ,whey2 but the ,holes are much better than the ,spout4 ,this ,cheese1 which is made in a ,cloth1 must be used like other ,cheeses made after that manner4 ,as for the making of ,sage-,cheese1 the following is the best way that ,i have met with1 and therefore ,i think the ,receipt may be useful to the ,publick4 ,to make a plain ,sage-,cheese4 ,gather the young ,tops of red ,sage1 and bruise them in a ,mortar till you can press the ,juice from them2 then take ,leaves of ,spinach or ,spinage1 and bruise them likewise1 and press out the ,juice to mix with the ,sage ,juice2 for the ,sage ,juice of it self is not of a pleasant green ,colour1 and the ,spinach ,juice is added to it to render it more bright to the ,sight2 it also serves to take off the bitterness of the ,sage4 ,when this ,juice is prepared1 put your ,rennet to the ,milk1 and1 at the same time1 mix as much of your ,sage and ,spinach ,juice with it1 as will give the ,milk the green ,colour you desire4 ,if you would have it strong of the ,sage1 you must have the greater share of ,sage ,juice2 or weaker of the ,sage1 the greater share of ,spinach ,juice4 ,when the ,curd is come1 break the ,curd gently1 and when it is all equally broken1 put it into the ,vat or ,cheese ,mote1 and press it gently3 remember that the equal and due breaking of the ,curd will keep your ,cheese from having ,hollows or ,eyes in it1 and the gentle pressing of ,cheese will make it eat tender and mellow4 ,this1 as well as the ,marygold ,cheese1 must be salted1 when it has been press'd about eight ,hours4 ,to make ,sage-,cheese in ,figures4 ,those that are willing to have figur'd ,cheeses1 such ,cheeses as are partly green and partly otherwise1 must take the following method4 ,provide two ,cheese ,vats of the same bigness1 and set your ,milk in two different ,vessels2 one part with plain ,rennet only1 and the other with ,rennet and ,sage ,juice1 as directed in the above ,receipt2 make these as you would do two distinct ,cheeses1 and put them into the ,presses at the same time4 ,when each of these ,cheeses has been prest half an hour1 take them out and cut some square ,pieces1 or long ,slips1 quite out of the plain ,cheese1 and lay them by upon a ,plate2 then cut as many ,pieces out of the ,sage ,cheese1 of the same ,size and ,figure of those that were cut out of the plain ,cheese1 and presently put the pieces of the ,sage ,cheese into the holes that were cut in the plain ,cheese1 and the pieces cutout of the plain ,cheese into the holes of the ,sage ,cheese1 contriving to make them fit exactly3 for this use some have ,tin ,plate1 made into ,figures of several ,shapes1 with which they cut out the pieces of their ,cheeses so exactly1 that they fit without trouble4 ,when this is done1 return them to the ,presses1 and treat them like common ,cheeses1 so will you have one ,cheese ,sage1 with white or plain ,figures in it1 and the other a white ,cheese1 with green ,figures in it4 ,in the making of these ,cheeses you must particularly observe to break your ,curd very equally1 and press both your ,cheeses as equally as possible before you cut out the ,figures2 for else when they come to be press'd for the last time1 your ,figures will press unequally and lose their ,shapes4 ,when these ,cheeses are made1 they must be frequently turn'd and shifted on the ,shelf1 and often rubb'd with a coarse ,cloath4 ,these ,cheeses may be made about two ,inches thick1 for if they are thicker1 it will be more difficult to make the ,figures regular2 these will be fit to eat in about eight ,months4 ,to make ,cheese in imitation of ,cheshire ,cheese4 ,when your ,milk is set1 and the ,curd is come1 it must not be broken with a ,dish1 as is usual in the making of other ,cheeses1 but drawn together by the ,hands to one side of the ,vessel1 gently and regularly broken2 for if it is roughly press'd1 a great deal of the richness of the ,milk will go into the ,whey4 ,as you thus gather your ,curd1 put it into the ,vat or ,cheese ,mote till it is full1 then press it and turn it often1 salting it at several times4 ,it is to be noted1 that the ,cheeses should be six or eight ,inches thick1 and will be fit to eat in a ,year2 they must be frequently turn'd and shifted upon the ,shelf1 and rubb'd often with a dry coarse ,cloath1 and at the ,year's end may have a hole bored in the middle1 so as to contain a quarter ,pint of ,sack1 which must be pour'd into it1 and then the hole stopp'd close with some of the same ,cheese1 and the ,cheese set in a ,wine ,cellar for six ,months to mellow2 at the end of which time1 the ,sack will be all lost1 and the hole will be in a manner clos'd up4 ,to make ,cheese in imitation of those made in ,gloucestershire4 ,these ,cheeses are to be about two ,inches thick1 and the ,vats or ,cheese ,motes must be provided accordingly2 set your ,milk as directed in the former ,receipts1 and breaking it as equally and tenderly as possible1 put it in a ,cloth into the ,vat1 and set it in the press for an ,hour2 then take it out of the ,press1 and cut it in small ,pieces1 as big as ,nutmegs1 into a ,pan of scalding ,water1 taking them again soon out of the ,water1 and sprinkle them with ,salt at your pleasure1 and return them again to the ,vat or ,cheese ,mote1 and keep them in the ,press till the next ,morning1 and after that turn them and wipe them often1 till they come to be very dry2 or else when you have let one of these ,cheeses press about two ,hours1 salt it on the upper side1 and turn it at ,night1 and salt the side that lies uppermost1 to lie in the ,press till ,morning2 but the first way of cutting and salting it is much the best4 ,these ,cheeses will be fit to cut when they have been made eight ,months2 it is to be observ'd1 that if we salt them in the manner first mention'd1 that is1 by cutting the ,cheese1 such ,cheeses will be smooth-coated4 ,to make ,slip-,coat ,cheese1 which is the thin ,summer ,cheese1 call'd in ,london ,cream ,cheese4 ,from the ,farm call'd the ,vaises in ,essex4 ,take six ,quarts of new ,milk1 and a ,pint of ,cream1 put it together with a ,spoonful of ,rennet just warm1 and let it stand till the ,curd is come2 then lay a ,cloath in your ,cheese ,vat1 and with a ,skimming-,dish cut out the ,curd1 and lay it in the ,vat till it is full1 turning your ,cheese-,cloath over it2 and as the ,curd settles1 lay more on1 till you have laid on all4 ,when the ,whey is drain'd out1 turn the ,cheese into a dry ,cloath1 and then lay a weight of a ,pound upon it2 at ,night turn it into another dry ,cloath1 and the next ,morning salt it a little1 then make a ,bed of ,nettles or ,ash-,leaves to lay it on1 and cover it with the same1 shifting them twice a day1 till the ,cheese is fit to eat1 which will be in about ten days4 ,this ,cheese is approved to be the best of the kind in the whole ,country1 and may be made all the ,summer4 ,it is to be observ'd1 that if in any sort of ,cheese1 which is here mentioned1 there is not a strength or briskness of taste agreeable to every ,palate1 it may be strengthned1 by putting either ,spice into the ,rennet ,bag1 as ,pepper1 or ,mace1 or ,cloves1 which will make the ,rennet very strong1 and the ,cheese of consequence more sharp to the ,palate2 or else add the ,juices of strong sweet ,herbs to the ,milk1 when the ,rennet is put in3 the ,juice of ,marygolds especially helps the richness of the ,milk1 or ,cheese4 ,the ,mace in good quantity put into the ,rennet will give the ,cheese a most agreeable warmth4 ,as for the ,antipathy which some ,people bear to ,cheese1 ,i judge that it must proceed from the first impression made from the ,nurse that suckles ,children1 or from the first ,cow's ,milk that is given them3 for as the ,stomach is the first part which the ,nourishment is received into2 so1 as that ,nourishment is at first favourably receiv'd into the ,stomach1 so the ,tone of the ,stomach will ever remain afterwards1 unless it could be so clear'd from the first impression by such a ,tryal as ,human ,nature can hardly bear4 ,i guess too1 that from this ,prejudice in the ,stomach proceeds the ,aversion which some ,people have to the ,smell of ,cheese2 and if ,i may go a little farther this way1 ,i suppose that the ,dislike to ,cats1 and the ,antipathy some ,people bear to them1 is from ,frights which the ,mothers have receiv'd from them during their ,pregnancy3 concerning which last ,particular1 ,i have offer'd my ,sentiments in the ,article of the ,longing of ,women1 in my ,philosophical ,account of the ,works of ,nature4 ,but as for the other things1 which some ,people bear an ,aversion to1 as the ,mutton of black ,sheep1 or a ,breast of ,mutton1 c4 they depend upon the loathing of the ,stomach1 from the first ,impression4 ,what ,i have remark'd here1 concerning the preparing and softning of the quality of the ,rennet ,bag1 is in part a reason for the first good or bad ,impression that may be made upon ,mankind with regard to ,cheese2 and ,i think the following relation1 which ,i had from a noble ,peer1 from whom ,i have learnt many curious and useful things1 tending to the good of my ,country1 will be acceptable to the ,world4 ,some ,gentlemen that had been hunting1 and were led by their ,sport to a retir'd part of the ,country1 where they found only a ,cottage to refresh themselves in1 were forc'd to take up with ,bread and ,cheese2 there was nothing else to be had1 and they had craving ,stomachs3 but one of the ,company was so unfortunate as to have an aversion to ,cheese1 and could never bear either the taste or smell of it2 however1 at this time feeing how heartily it was eaten by his ,companions1 and being very hungry1 he resolved to venture upon it1 and eat heartily of it2 but about an hour after was taken so very ill with ,purging and ,vomiting1 that in a short time his ,life was despair'd of4 ,he had the ,advice of the best ,physicians1 but no ,medicine took place1 and he was given over1 after he had lain in that condition a ,week2 however1 at length the ,distemper went off1 and by degrees he get strength enough to go homeward1 and in his way happening to stop at an ,inn1 where there stood a ,waggon ,load of ,cheshire ,cheeses1 he found that he had a strong ,appetite to eat some of that sort1 and had one cut on purpose1 and eat heartily of it1 without suffering the least inconvenience1 and has ever since been a great lover of ,cheese4 ,so that there is an ,example of getting over this ,aversion2 but considering the difficulty he went thro'1 it shews the danger of such an ,attempt3 ,nothing less than the violent ,scouring he underwent could have chang'd the first ,impression made in his ,stomach4 ,but thus far of ,cheese4 ,it is necessary1 in the next place1 to say something of ,butter1 and how far that may be mended in many parts of ,england1 as well for private as for more general use4 ,in the first place it is to be remark'd1 that some ,grounds will never produce good ,butter1 and others will not produce good ,cheese1 tho' there is the best management in the ,dairy4 ,again1 there is one sort of ,cattle1 which tho' we feed them in the finest ,grass1 and best ,pasture1 will never yield a rich ,milk2 while on the other hand1 there are some sorts of ,cattle which will yield a rich ,milk for ,butter in any ,pasture3 tho'1 as ,i have observ'd before1 the ,milk and ,butter will be ill tasted if the ,cows fed upon ,crow-,garlick1 ,alliaria1 or ,saxifrage4 ,what ,i have said of this1 with regard to the making of ,cheese1 must here be consider'd2 that is1 if the ,cows feed upon short fine ,grass1 there will be more ,cream in the ,milk than if they feed upon long rank ,grass4 ,indeed the long rank ,grass will give more ,milk than the short1 but less ,butter1 and worse into the bargain4 ,again1 the ,milk of one ,cow shall give richer and better ,butter than the ,milk of others1 tho' they all feed on the same ,pasture1 even so that the ,milk of one ,cow will cover or enrich the ,butter made from nine or ten other ,cows2 her ,milk will make ,butter of a rich yellow ,colour1 full of ,fatness1 and the others will only produce a pale1 lean ,butter1 but all together will be good3 ,i know several ,instances of this1 and every one who is skilful in a ,dairy may observe it4 ,i have already treated largely concerning this ,particular1 in my ,works of ,husbandry1 and ,i shall therefore proceed to speak of the ,management of ,milk in the ,dairy for making ,butter2 for ,i am very sensible1 that many ,farmers might have twice the ,benefit from their ,dairies1 if the ,articles of ,butter and ,cheese were consider'd in a rational way1 and the old ,custom could be broke through2 and moreover1 if the best ,rules for managing of the ,dairy were known1 and put in practice1 the whole ,country would be the better for it1 every one might enjoy the benefit of good things3 whereas for want of knowledge among some ,farmers1 their ,goods are of small value1 and the ,people are also disatisfied4 ,in many parts of ,england1 it is common to set ,milk in ,brass ,pans1 and that gives an ill ,taste to the ,milk2 and again1 there is a custom of setting the ,cream in ,brass-,kettles over the ,fire1 and as it warms to stroak the ,butter as it rises to the edge of the ,kettle3 this way is very bad for ,butter1 for the warm ,brass assuredly will spoil the ,taste of the ,cream1 and it is often smoak'd4 ,the surest way is to set the ,milk in glaz'd ,earthen ,pans or in ,leaden ,pans1 but the ,earthen ,pans are preferable4 ,it should be particularly observ'd1 that the ,dairy be kept cool1 for that in hot ,weather contributes greatly to the ,advantage of the ,butter3 ,i have known some that have had ,streams of ,water running thro' them1 and at the same ,places1 instead of ,glass ,windows1 there have been no ,lights at all to them but thro' ,wyer1 and ,shutters to them1 to open or close as the ,sun chang'd its ,course4 ,the thatching of the ,dairy is much cooler also than ,tyling2 and whatever will contribute to keep off the ,sun1 should be practis'd4 ,there are yet in some ,places in ,england some ,farmers that do not know the use of the ,churn2 however1 it is certain1 that there is no better way of making ,butter than by that means1 or something equivalent to it2 that is1 by beating the ,cream1 so that the ,oily1 or ,fat ,parts separate from the ,watery ,parts1 in the most constant and gentle way that is possible1 for to use this beating of the ,cream too violently1 will make the ,butter like ,grease2 whereas a gentle beating of the ,cream will render it more firm or stiff3 and besides1 when the ,cream is beat with too much hurry1 the ,butter will ferment1 and presently change to be of a bad ,taste2 but if it be gently beat or churn'd1 it will be firm1 and will be fit for keeping4 ,again1 it must be observ'd1 that as the beating or churning of ,cream1 to bring it to ,butter1 is only to separate the oily from the watery ,parts of the ,cream1 so when once you begin to churn1 or beat the ,cream1 you must continue to churn or beat it in the most constant manner you can1 till the ,butter is made3 for if you had perhaps beat the ,cream within three or four ,minutes of its becoming ,butter1 if you leave off the ,work but a ,minute1 the oily and watery ,parts will return to one another1 and will require as much ,labour as before to separate them3 it is like ,oil and ,vinegar that have been mix'd by ,labour1 and then let alone for a ,minute or two1 they will divide and separate from one another1 as much as if they had never been mix'd2 but the beating of it too violently1 will make the ,butter oily1 as observ'd before4 ,as for the ,figure of our common ,churn1 ,i shall not give a draught of it1 because such as are unacquainted with it may understand it much better by seeing a ,model of it1 which may be had at any ,toy-,shop in ,london2 nay1 the very beating of ,cream with a ,spoon1 in a small ,bowl1 will bring it to ,butter2 but it must be beat regularly4 ,in the great ,dairies in ,holland1 where one ,farmer keeps four or five hundred ,cows1 the ,cream is put into a large ,well1 lined with ,lead1 and a large ,beam set with cross ,bars is turn'd in the ,cream by a ,horse2 but the violence of the ,motion makes the ,butter rather like ,oil than ,butter2 and the consequence is1 that it will not keep long1 and as ,i have heard say1 will not melt well1 like the ,butter that is made by more gentle means4 ,where a gentle way is used in making ,butter1 it will cut like ,wax1 and it should especially be well wrought with the ,hands1 when it is fresh1 taken from the ,churn and salted for common use2 for if the ,milk be not well work'd out of it1 the ,butter will not keep4 ,however1 if ,butter begins to decay in goodness1 or change to an ill ,taste1 let it be work'd well1 and wash'd with ,water1 and it will come to itself1 and will bear salting and potting as well as fresh ,butter2 but always observe not to put up ,butters of several sorts into the same ,pot or ,vessel1 but chuse that of the same ,dairy1 and of the same making1 if possible4 ,one of the most curious ,women ,i have met with in this way1 is ,mrs4 ,cowen1 a ,shopkeeper at ,newport ,pond in ,essex1 who pots great quantities every ,year2 there are undoubtedly many others who are very good in this way1 but as ,i do not know them1 therefore ,i may be excus'd if ,i mention her in particular4 ,again1 ,butter that was good originally1 and well potted1 may be wash'd and beaten in the ,winter1 so as to be made more sweet and palatable than fresh ,butter1 made in many ,places1 at that time of the ,year2 and this is frequently practiced about ,london1 where the workers of it get more than twice the first ,price of the ,butter1 by their ,care and ,labour4 ,before ,i conclude this ,article1 it may be necessary to observe1 that the best managers of the ,dairy frequently fill up their ,churns with cold ,water1 before they put in the ,cream to churn1 in the heat of the ,summer1 for fear of over-heating the ,butter in the making1 and in the ,winter heat their ,churns with warm ,water before they use them1 but the over-heating of the ,churns spoils the ,butter2 she best way is to set the bottom of the ,churn in warm ,water1 when you churn in cold ,weather1 to save ,trouble4 ,i shall now proceed to say something of preparing ,cordial ,waters2 for this ,month gives us a vast variety of ,herbs in full perfection1 and in the most proper condition for the use of the ,shops1 whether for drying1 infusing1 distilling1 c4 ,in the first place1 all ,herbs design'd to be dried1 must be gather'd in dry ,weather1 and laid in some ,room1 or cover'd ,place1 to dry in the ,shade1 to be afterwards used for infusion or distillation1 for which ,business the dried ,herbs are as useful as the green ,herbs1 if they be such as are ,aromatick1 viz4 ,thyme1 ,sweet ,marjoram1 ,savory1 ,hysop1 ,sage1 ,mint1 ,rosemary1 the ,leaves of the ,bay-,tree1 the ,tops of ,juniper1 ,gill1 or ,ground ,ivy1 and such like3 ,the ,infusions1 or ,spirits1 drawn from dried ,herbs are more free from the ,earthy and ,watery ,parts1 than the ,infusions1 or ,spirits drawn from green ,herbs4 ,i observe1 that in making such ,infusions as ,teas of dried ,herbs1 the best way is to pour boiling ,water upon them1 and in half a ,minute1 at most1 pour out the ,water again from the ,herbs1 if we have them in small quantities1 as we do ,sage ,tea1 or other ,tea2 such ,tea will then be of a fine green ,colour1 and full of ,spirit3 but if the ,herbs stand longer with ,water upon them1 the ,water will change of a brownish ,colour1 will lose the fine ,flavour of the ,herb1 and become ill-tasted2 so that in the making of ,sage ,tea1 for example1 pour on your boiling ,water1 and when it has been half a ,minute upon the ,sage-,leaves1 pour it off and fling away the ,leaves2 for if you pour more ,water upon them1 you must expect your ,tea of a dark ,colour and ill tasted3 therefore have fresh ,sage to every fresh quantity of ,water4 ,and the same method should be used in the making of all kinds of ,teas1 to make them palatable and more wholesome4 ,but when ,i speak of ,teas having good qualities in them1 ,i must not be understood to mean any of the ,foreign ,teas1 such as ,green1 and ,bohea ,teas1 c4 for ,i have had experience enough in them to know that they are injurious to the ,body1 of which ,i shall say more in a ,treatise by it self4 ,what ,i mention here1 is only with regard to the infusing of ,herbs in the ,tea manner2 but there are ,infusions of ,herbs in ,spirits3 here the ,spirit that the ,herbs are put into1 must be cold1 or used without any ,fire at all1 and the ,herbs in this case may be used either green or dry2 here they may stand several days before the ,spirit that they are infus'd in be drawn off1 as the following ,cordial1 call'd ,surfeit ,water1 may serve to instance4 ,to make red ,surfeit-,water4 ,from ,mrs4 ,b4 ,to three ,gallons of ,brandy1 put the ,flower ,leaves of a ,bushel of red ,poppies1 one ,pound of ,raisins of the ,sun stoned1 a large ,stick of ,liquorice sliced1 a quarter ,pound of ,caraway-,seeds bruised1 a large ,handful of ,angelica1 ,sweet ,marjoram1 red ,sage1 ,dragon's ,mint1 and ,baulm1 of each a handful2 let all these be cover'd close in a ,glass1 or glaz'd ,earthen ,vessel1 and stand to infuse or steep in the ,brandy for nine ,days1 keeping it1 during that time1 in a ,cellar2 then strain it off upon a ,pound and half of ,loaf-,sugar1 and put it into ,bottles4 ,this is a good ,cordial1 if used only when occasion requires4 ,in this ,month1 ,orange-,flowers are in the greatest plenty2 about half a ,pound of them put into a ,gallon of ,brandy1 with a quarter ,pound of ,orange-,peel1 and half a ,pound of double refin'd ,loaf-,sugar1 makes a very agreeable ,cordial3 ,we may let these ,ingredients infuse in the ,brandy nine or ten days before we pour the ,brandy from them4 ,some chuse rather to put the ,sugar to the ,brandy after it is pour'd from the ,orange-,flowers4 ,as for the distilling part1 we have already several ,books which treat largely of that ,business1 both with respect to the management of what is call'd the cold ,still1 and the ,alembick1 to which ,i shall refer3 but in this place ,i shall only take notice1 that whereas several kinds of distill'd ,waters are drawn from many ,herbs1 which do not appear all the ,year about2 so if one has not an opportunity of collecting all our ,herbs together1 just when we want them1 we may yet distil those we can get at one time1 and make another ,distillation of those we collect at another time1 and so mix both ,spirits or ,waters together3 ,for ,example1 in those ,cordial ,waters where the ,ros ,solis1 or ,rosa ,solis is used1 which is an ,herb not always to be found1 and will not keep above a day or two after 'tis gather'd1 this ,i say may be distill'd by itself1 and kept to use with other ,waters at pleasure2 putting of this such a proportion as would have been produced from the quantity directed1 of the ,plant1 in the ,receipt1 if it had been distill'd with the other ,herbs3 and so of any other ,herb that is hard to come by4 ,this ,herb1 however1 ,i may inform my ,reader1 grows in ,bogs1 and when we find it we may preserve it artificially1 by either planting it immediately in other boggy places1 or else in artificial ,bogs1 made of ,earth and ,water in ,tubs1 or ,earthen ,pots1 made without holes at the bottom4 ,this ,season affords us great variety of ,necessaries for ,food1 in the ,farm and ,garden2 the ,pond ,fish1 as ,pike or ,jack1 ,carp1 ,tench1 and ,perch1 as well as ,eels are in ,season1 and may be prepared for the ,table1 as directed in ,march2 there are likewise green ,geese1 young ,ducks1 ,chickens1 ,pigeons1 and ,rabbits in the artificial ,warren2 and in the ,garden1 ,spinage and ,cabbage-,lettuce to boil1 some forward ,pease and ,beans1 ,asparagus1 ,artichokes1 the first ,cabbages1 and ,caulyflowers1 ,cucumbers for stewing and in raw ,sallads3 however1 in this ,season all raw ,sallads should yet partake of some warm ,herbs1 as ,i have directed in my ,new ,improvement of ,planting and ,gardening4 ,the ,method which ,i most approve of for dressing a ,sallad1 is1 after we have duly proportion'd the ,herbs1 to take two thirds ,oil ,olive1 one third true ,vinegar1 some hard ,eggs cut small1 both the ,whites and ,yolks1 a little ,salt and some ,mustard1 all which must be well mix'd and pour'd over the ,sallad1 having first cut the large ,herbs1 such as ,sallery1 ,endive1 or ,cabbage-,lettuce1 but none of the small ones3 then mix all these well together1 that it may be ready just when you want to use it1 for the ,oil will make it presently soften1 and lose its briskness4 ,onions should always be kept in reserve1 because it is not every one that like their relish1 nor is ,oil agreeable to every one2 but where ,oil is not liked1 the ,yolks of hard ,eggs1 bruis'd and mix'd with the ,vinegar1 may be used as above4 ,the difficulty of getting good ,oil in ,england1 is1 ,i suppose1 the reason why every one does not admire it2 for ,i was once of opinion ,i could never like it3 but when ,i was once persuaded to taste such as was of the best sort1 ,i could never after like a ,sallad without it4 ,the best ,oil that ,i have met with in ,england1 is at ,mr4 ,crosse's1 a ,genouese ,merchant1 at the ,genouese ,arms in ,katherine-,street1 in the ,strand1 ,london4 ,as for the ordering of the above ,animals and ,vegetables for the ,table1 we may find ,directions in this ,work4 ,in this ,month gather ,elder-,flowers when they are dry1 and pick them from the ,stalks2 let them dry in the ,shade1 and then put an ,ounce to each ,quart of ,white-,wine ,vinegar1 to stand in the ,vinegar for two ,months1 then pour the ,vinegar from them for use4 ,about the end of this ,month is a proper time to make ,sage-,wine1 which is a very pleasant one1 and ,i think worthy a place among the best ,receipts4 ,to make ,sage-,wine4 ,from ,mrs4 ,e4 ,b4 ,to three ,gallons of ,water put six ,pounds of ,sugar1 boil these together1 and as the ,scum rises take it off1 and when it is well boiled put it in a ,tub boiling hot1 in which there is already a ,gallon of red ,sage ,leaves clean pick'd and wash'd2 when the ,liquor is near cold1 put in the ,juice of four large ,lemons1 beaten well with a little ,ale ,yeast1 mix these all well together1 and cover it very close from the ,air1 and let it stand forty eight ,hours2 then strain all thro' a fine ,hair-,sieve1 and put it into a ,vessel that will but just hold it1 and when it has done working1 slop it down close1 and let it stand three ,weeks or a ,month before you bottle it1 putting a ,lump of ,loaf-,sugar into every ,bottle4 ,this ,wine is best when it is three ,months old4 ,after this manner you may make ,wine of any other ,herb or ,flower4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,june4 ,this ,month is a proper ,season for making several sorts of ,wine1 whether it be that of ,goosberries1 ,currants1 ,cherries1 ,apricots1 or ,rasberries1 all which are very agreeable and worth the trouble2 the ,expence1 where these ,fruits are growing1 being very inconsiderable4 ,the following ,receipts are approved to be very excellent4 ,preliminaries to the making of ,goosberry-,wine4 ,goosberry-,wine is one of the richest and strongest ,wines made in ,england1 it will keep many ,years1 and improve by keeping1 if it be well made2 and is not1 in my opinion1 inferior to ,mountain ,malaga4 ,to make this ,wine1 we must have regard to the sort of ,goosberry we design to use1 for there is a great deal of difference in the time of one sort's ripening and another3 the earliest ripe are the ,champaign1 the ,green1 the ,black1 and ,red hairy ,goosberries1 every one of which has a ,flavour distinct from the other sorts1 and so will yield each of them a ,wine of as different a relish from the rest1 as one may expect to find among the several ,varieties of the ,french growth4 ,the most forward of these kinds about ,london ripen early in this ,month1 if the ,season be good2 but the later forts are not generally ripe till the end of the ,month1 or in ,july4 ,the later sorts are commonly the white ,dutch1 the ,amber1 and the ,walnut-,goosberries1 each of which has likewise a different fort of taste3 of the ,amber especially ,i have known an excellent ,wine to be made4 ,again1 we must consider1 that as to the time of their ripening1 the diversity of ,situations will forward or retard them a ,fortnight or three ,weeks2 and beside1 as we have observed above1 every ,season is not alike1 and we must have regard also to the difference of ,climate1 one part of ,britain is three ,weeks sooner or later than another3 and when ,i say in any one of my ,kalendars1 or ,monthly ,directories1 that any particular ,fruit is ripe1 or any particular thing is to be done in such a ,month1 it must be understood that it is generally so1 but will vary now and then1 as the ,season is more or less forward4 ,there is likewise another thing to be consder'd relating to the ripeness of ,fruits1 and that is1 the different ,opinions or ,tastes of ,mankind2 some call them ripe when they just begin to turn3 but what ,i mean by ripeness1 is1 when a ,fruit is as tender as it can be1 and possessing its highest ,flavour3 ,and by those ,fruits which ,i call half ripe1 ,i mean such as have their inward ,juices sweet1 and their outward ,parts a little hard and sour4 ,in this state should the ,goosberry be gather'd for making of ,wine1 ,see the following ,receipt4 ,to make ,goosberry-,wine4 ,gather your ,goosberries in dry ,weather1 when they are half ripe1 as ,i have explained in the above ,preliminaries1 pick them and bruise them in a ,tub1 with a wooden ,mallet1 or other such like ,instrument1 for no ,metal is proper2 then take about the quantity of a ,peck of the bruised ,goosberries1 put them into a ,bag made of ,horse-,hair1 and press them as much as possible1 without breaking the ,kernels3 repeat this ,work till all your ,goosberries are press'd1 and adding to this press'd ,juice1 the other which you will find in the ,tub1 add to every ,gallon three ,pounds of powder ,sugar1 for ,lisbon ,sugar will give the ,wine a taste which may be disagreeable to some ,people1 and besides it will sweeten much more than the dry powder ,sugar2 stir this together till the ,sugar is dissolved1 and then put it in a ,vessel or ,cask1 which must be quite fill'd with it4 ,if the ,vessel holds about ten or twelve ,gallons1 it must stand a ,fortnight or three ,weeks2 or if about twenty ,gallons1 then about four or five ,weeks1 to settle1 in a cool ,place3 then draw off the ,wine from the ,lee1 and after you have discharg'd the ,vessel from the ,lees1 return the clear ,liquor again into the ,vessel1 and let it stand three ,months1 if the ,cask is about ten ,gallons2 or between four and five ,months1 if it be twenty ,gallons1 and then bottle it off4 ,we must note1 that a small ,cask of any ,liquor is always sooner ripe and fit for drinking than the ,liquor of a larger ,cask will be2 but a small ,body of ,liquor will sooner change sour1 than that which is in a larger ,cask4 ,the ,wine1 if it is truly prepared1 according to the above ,directions1 will improve every ,year1 and last several ,years4 ,preliminaries to the making of ,currant ,wine4 ,it is to be noted1 that tho' there are two sorts of ,currants1 which may be used for making of ,wine1 that is1 the ,red and the ,white2 yet the ,taste and ,goodness will be the same1 whether 'tis made of the ,white or the ,red1 for they have both the same ,qualities1 except in the ,colour4 ,observe also1 that the ,fruit be gather'd in a dry time1 and that if you make a large ,quantity1 it must stand longer in the ,vessel1 before bottling1 than a small ,quantity4 ,to make ,currant ,wine4 ,when your ,currants are full ripe1 gather them1 and pick them from the ,stalks and weigh them1 in order to proportion your ,water and ,sugar to them4 ,when this is done1 bruise them to pieces with your ,hands1 and add to every three ,pounds of ,currants a ,quart of ,water1 stirring all together1 and letting it stand three ,hours1 at the end of which time1 strain it off gently thro' a ,sieve1 and put your ,sugar into your ,liquor1 after the rate of a ,pound to every three ,pounds of ,currants4 ,this ,sugar should be powder ,sugar1 for ,lisbon ,sugar would give the ,wine an ill ,taste4 ,stir this well together1 and boil it till you have taken off all the ,scum1 which will rise plentifully2 set it then to cool1 at least sixteen ,hours1 before you put it into the ,vessel4 ,if you make the ,quantity of twenty ,gallons1 it may stand in the ,vessel three ,weeks before it will be fit for bottling2 and if you make thirty ,gallons1 then it must stand a ,month before it be bottled off1 observing then to put a small ,lump of ,sugar into every ,bottle2 it must be kept in a cool place1 to prevent its ,fretting4 ,by this ,method it will keep good many ,years1 and be a very strong and pleasant ,wine1 at a very cheap rate4 ,it is necessary to observe1 that the same sort of ,currant is not always of the same ,sweetness when it is ripe1 those growing in the ,shade will be less sweet than those that are more exposed to the ,sun4 ,and when the ,summer happens to be wet and cold1 they will not be so sweet as in a dry warm ,season2 therefore tho' the ,standard of the above ,receipt be one ,pound of ,sugar to three ,pounds of pick'd ,currants1 yet the ,palate of the ,person who makes the ,wine should be the ,regulator1 when the ,sugar is put to the ,juice1 considering at the same time1 that it is a ,wine they are making1 and not a ,syrup4 ,the ,sugar is only put to soften and preserve the ,juice1 and too much will make the ,wine ropey4 ,this ,season is proper for making ,cherry ,wine1 the ,kentish and ,flemish ,cherries being now full ripe1 which are much the best for this purposes3 ,this is a very pleasant strong ,wine4 ,to make ,cherry ,wine4 ,gather your ,cherries in dry ,weather1 when they are full ripe1 pick them from the ,stalks1 and bruise them well with your ,hands till they are all broken2 then put them into a ,hair ,bag1 and press them till you have as much ,liquor from them as will run without breaking the ,stones4 ,to every ,gallon of this ,juice1 put one ,pound of powder ,sugar1 and having stirr'd it well together1 boil it and scum it as long as any ,scum will rise2 then set it in a cool ,place till it is quite cold1 and put it into your ,vessel1 when it will presently begin to work4 ,when the ,working is over1 slop the ,vessel close1 and let it stand four ,months2 if it holds the ,quantity of twenty ,gallons1 or more or less1 as the ,quantity happens to be1 then bottle it off1 putting a ,lump of ,loaf-,sugar into each ,bottle4 ,it will keep two or three ,years1 if it be set in a cool ,place4 ,i have now done with the ,wines that are to be made in this ,month3 ,i shall in the next place set down the ,method of keeping or preserving ,fruits for ,tarts all the ,year about1 as ,i had it from a very curious ,person1 in whose ,house ,i have seen it practised with extraordinary ,success4 ,the ,fruits which are chiefly to be put up this ,month1 are ,goosberries1 ,currants and ,cherries4 ,to preserve ,fruits for ,tarts all the ,year4 ,the ,goosberries must be full grown1 but not ripe1 they must be gather'd in dry ,weather1 and pick'd clean of their ,stalks and ,tops2 then put them into ,quart ,bottles1 that are made on purpose1 with large wide ,necks1 and cork them gently with new sound ,corks1 and put them into an ,oven after the ,bread is drawn1 letting them stand there till they have shrunk about a fourth part2 observing to change them now and then1 because those which you set at the further part of the ,oven1 will be soonest done4 ,when you find them enough1 according to the above ,direction1 take them out1 and immediately beat the ,corks in as tight as you can1 and cut the ,tops off even with the ,bottles1 and pitch them over2 you must then set your ,bottles by1 in a dry ,place4 ,i have tasted of ,fruits done this way1 that have made as good ,tarts at the ,year's end1 as those that were fresh gather'd3 ,the only difference between the preserving ,goosberries and ,currants1 is1 that the ,currants must be full ripe when we put them into the ,bottles1 and so likewise the ,cherries4 ,there is another way of putting up ,fruits for this use1 which is1 by half preserving them with ,sugar1 i4e4 half a ,pound of ,sugar to every ,pound of ,fruit4 ,apricots especially1 when they are near ripe1 make excellent ,tarts2 being split and pared from the ,skin1 and boiled in a ,syrup1 they will keep the ,year round1 as an ingenious ,lady has told me4 ,it is also to be remark'd1 that ripe ,goosberries make very fine ,tarts4 ,the beginning of this ,month1 when the ,goosberries are full grown1 but not ripe1 is the right ,season for preserving of them in sweet-meat3 ,the white ,dutch ,goosberry is the best for this use4 ,so likewise if you have plenty of ,kentish ,cherries1 pick some of them from the ,stalks1 and lay the ,cherries upon a fine ,wire ,sieve1 and dry them in an ,oven2 when they are dried enough1 and quite cold1 put them in an ,earthen glazed ,jar1 and stop them up close3 ,these must be kept in a dry place4 ,upon the foot of the above ,receipt1 for preserving of ,fruits1 ,i have a ,notion that we may preserve green ,pease1 after the same manner1 in ,bottles1 that ,i have mention'd for the preserving of ,goosberries1 ,currants1 c4 ,so that they will eat tender and well tasted at ,christmas3 it is well worth the tryal1 seeing that a ,bottle or two cannot be any great ,expence1 and that ,pease are acceptable almost to every one4 ,this ,i have persuaded some of my ,acquaintance to try1 but particularly a very curious ,person in such matters1 who tells me1 that provided this method answers what we aim at1 he supposes they will be the most agreeable1 either to be boiled with ,cream1 or stew'd in ,gravey1 after the ,french manner1 for it is a dispute with him1 whether they will hold their green ,colour2 but1 as ,i observ'd before1 it may be try'd at an easy ,expence4 ,the beginning of this ,month is the time to pickle ,walnuts1 for then the ,walnuts have not began to shell1 and moreover are not so bitter nor hollow as they will be afterwards2 they will now be full flesh'd1 and you will have no ,loss4 ,the following ,method ,i learnt from ,mr4 ,foord1 a curious ,gentleman of ,buckingham1 and has been experienced to be the best way4 ,there is one thing indeed which must be regarded in this ,pickle1 which is1 that every one does not love the ,taste of ,onion or ,garlick2 but that may be omitted as we please1 only supplying the place with ,ginger4 ,to pickle ,walnuts4 ,the ,walnuts being fit for pickling1 wash them1 and put them into a ,kettle to scald2 then with a piece of ,flannel rub off the outer ,skin1 and let them lie till they are quite cold1 after which put them into a ,vessel of ,salt and ,water1 and let them stand #bd ,hours2 then take them out1 and put them again into fresh ,salt and ,water for #bd ,hours more2 then shift them as before1 and continue this ,practice for fourteen ,days1 at the end of which time wipe them dry1 and lay them in a glazed earthen ,pot1 ,stratum super ,stratum1 with ,spice1 whole ,mustard-,seed1 ,horse-,radish slic'd1 and ,garlick1 or ,eschalots3 that is to say1 make a ,layer of ,walnuts1 and strew over it whole ,pepper1 ,ginger slic'd1 ,horse-,radish slic'd1 some whole ,mustard-,seed1 and three or four ,cloves of ,garlick2 or if ,garlick be too strong1 as many ,cloves of ,shalots4 ,then lay upon these another ,layer of ,walnuts1 and upon them the ,roots and ,spices as before1 and so continue till your ,pot is full2 then pour over the whole1 as much boiling ,vinegar as will cover them1 and immediately cover the ,pot close1 and let it stand till the next ,day1 when we may again pour off the ,vinegar from them1 without disturbing them2 and making it again boiling hot1 pour it upon them1 and stop them close1 as before1 to be set by for use4 ,but these will not be fit for eating under three ,weeks or a ,month1 and will be much better by keeping a few ,months4 ,this ,month is a proper time to make ,syrup of ,clove-,julyflowers1 and likewise to make ,julyflower ,wine1 which is a very rich ,liquor1 and may be made in the best manner1 by the following ,receipt from ,mrs4 ,b4 ,b4 ,to make ,julyflower ,wine4 ,take nine ,gallons of ,water1 and twenty four ,pounds of ,sugar1 boil these on a gentle ,fire till one ,gallon is lost1 or evaporated1 taking off the ,scum as it rises4 ,then having prepared a ,bushel of ,clove ,julyflowers1 the red ,flower ,leaves only1 pour the ,liquor scalding hot upon them1 and cover them close till the next ,day1 then pressing them with a ,screw-press4 ,when this is done1 bake a piece of ,bread hard1 without scorching1 before the ,fire1 and while it is warm1 spread some ,ale-,yeast upon it1 and put it into the ,liquor1 in an open ,tub1 till it begins to worker ferment2 the next ,day after which1 add two quarts of ,sack1 and one of ,rhenish ,wine1 and barrel it for three ,weeks or a ,month2 let it then be bottled1 and kept in a cool ,place4 ,in this ,month such ,carp and ,tench are good as have not lately spawn'd2 the dressing of them1 and of ,pikes1 or ,jacks1 see in ,march4 ,perch are now very good1 the large ones for stewing1 as recommended for ,carp1 or boiled or fry'd1 or else in the ,dutch manner1 call'd ,water ,soochy2 which is to boil the ,perches with ,salt in the ,water1 and ,parsley-,roots and ,parsley ,leaves1 to be brought to ,table in the ,water they are boiled in1 and eaten with ,bread and ,butter4 ',tis an odd way to the ,english1 but is much admir'd by many ,genlemen who have travell'd4 ,the ,garden is now very rich in ,eatables1 as may be seen in my ,gardener's ,kalendar1 printed for ,mr4 ,mears4 ,the ,trasopogon1 or ,goatsbeard1 is now1 as well as in the former ,month1 fit for boiling2 it is in much request in some of the ,western parts of ,england1 especially about ,bristol1 as ,i am inform'd1 where the ,country ,people call it ,trangompoop1 or ,crangompoop1 a corruption1 as ,i suppose1 from the true ,name above written3 ,this is eaten like ,asparagus1 and dress'd the same way1 the part which is eaten is the blossomy ,bud a little before it would flower1 with about six ,inches of the ,stalk to it4 ,there are now ,chickens1 ,pigeons1 ,ducks1 and some young wild ,ducks1 and ,rabbets1 which may not only make great ,variety at a ,table1 to be drest after the common plain way1 but may also be made into elgant ,dishes1 after the several manners mention'd in this ,work1 if there is an occasion to entertain particular ,people of fine ,taste4 ,the ,ronceval and ,mooretto ,pease1 and ,windsor ,beans1 are also good helps to a ,table3 ,i need say nothing of their dressing2 but that ,i am of opinion1 that the ,windsor ,beans1 when they are blanch'd1 that is1 boiled long enough till we can take off their ,skins1 and then put into large-neck'd ,bottles1 and order'd as ,i have prescrib'd for the preserving of ,pease2 by this means ,i suppose they may be preserv'd many ,months3 but we may defer this ,experiment till the end of ,september1 to be try'd upon the latter ,crops4 ,near the ,sea we have ,mackrel in the height of perfection1 and ,mullet1 ,turbut1 ,herrings1 ,scate1 and ,soles1 as also ,lobsters and ,crabs2 and in the ,rivers1 ,salmon and ,trout are still good1 and some ,cray-,fish4 ',tis now a proper ,season to put up ,rasp-berries1 either in ,sweetmeat1 or to infuse in ,brandy2 but they must be gather'd dry4 ,there are certain ,people who know how to mix these with ,port ,wine1 and imitate the richest ,florence ,wine4 ,about ,midsummer is a proper time to put up a ,boar for ,brawn against ,christmas1 or against the beginning of ,december1 for then is the ,season it sells best1 and is chiefly in request1 selling at that time for twelve ,pence per ,pound4 ,for this end we should chuse an old ,boar1 for the older he is1 the more horny will the ,brawn be3 ,we must provide for this use a ,frank1 as the ,farmers call it1 which must be built very strong to keep the ,boar in4 ,the figure of the ,frank should be somewhat like a ,dog-,kennel1 a little longer than the ,boar1 which we put up so close on the ,sides that the ,boar cannot turn about in it2 the ,back of this ,frank must have a sliding ,board1 to open and shut at pleasure1 for the conveniency of taking away the ,dung1 which should be done every ,day4 ,when all this is very secure1 and made as directed1 put up your ,boar1 and take care that he is so placed1 as never to see or even hear any ,hogs2 for if he does1 he will pine away1 and lose more good ,flesh in one ,day than he gets in a ,fortnight3 ,he must then be fed with as many ,pease as he will eat1 and as much skim'd ,milk1 or flet ,milk1 as is necessary for him4 ,this method must be used with him till he declines his ,meat1 or will eat very little of it1 and then the ,pease must be left off1 and he must be fed with ,paste made of ,barley ,meal1 made into ,balls as big as large ,hen-,eggs1 and still the ,skim-,milk continued1 till you find him decline that likewise1 at which time he will be fit to kill for ,brawn2 the ,directions for making of which1 with the ,pickle for it1 see in the ,month of ,december4 ,during the time he is thus feeding1 great care must be taken that he has always ,meat before him1 for neglect in this will spoil the whole ,design4 ,this is the way of feeding a ,boar for ,brawn1 but ,i cannot help thinking 'tis a little barbarous1 and especially as the ,creature is by some ,people put in so close a ,pen1 that as ,i hear1 it cannot lie down all the while 'tis feeding2 and at last1 considering the expence of ,food1 ,brawn is but an insipid kind of ,meat3 however1 as some are lovers of it1 it is necessary to prescribe the method which should be used in the preparing it4 ,in this ,month we have plenty of ,artichokes and it is a good ,season to put them up for ,winter use1 to be used simply1 or to be put in ,sauces1 or in compound ,dishes2 they are easily dried or pickled1 to be kept1 and if they are not gather'd as soon as they are in their perfection1 they will lose the goodness of their ,hearts1 or the ,bottoms1 as some call them4 ,in a plentiful ,year of them ,i have had a great number dried for ,winter use1 in the following manner4 ,concerning the gathering1 and ordering ,artichokes for drying4 ,in the gathering of ,artichokes1 observe1 that the ,leaves of what is call'd the ,artichoke be pointing inwards1 and lie close at the ,top1 for then the ,bottom will be large and full2 but if you find many of the ,leaves of the ,artichoke spread from the ,top1 then the ,choke1 or bristly part is shot so much1 that it has drawn out much of the ,heart of the ,artichoke2 and as the ,flower comes forward1 the more that grows1 the thinner will be the ,bottom1 which is the best part of it4 ,when you cut the ,artichoke1 cut it with a long ,stalk1 that when you use it you may clear it well of its ,strings1 which will else spoil the goodness of the ,bottom1 wherein the ,strings will remain2 to do this1 lay the ,artichoke upon a ,table1 and hold it down hard with one ,hand1 while with the other ,hand you pull the ,stalk hard up and down1 till it quits the ,artichoke1 and will then pull away the ,strings along with it2 this being done1 lay the ,artichokes in ,water for an ,hour1 and then put them into a ,kettle of cold ,water to boil1 till they are tender enough to separate the ,leaves and the ,chokes from them4 ,when this is done1 lay the ,hearts1 or ,bottoms upon a ,cullender1 or some other thing1 to drain conveniently2 then dry them upon a ,wire ,sieve1 or ,gridiron1 in a gentle ,oven1 by degrees1 till they are as hard as ,wood4 ,these will keep good twelve ,months if they are laid by in a dry ,place4 ,when we want to use these for boiling1 frying1 or to accompany other ,meats1 we must put them into warm ,water1 often repeating it to them for eight and forty ,hours1 by which means they will come to themselves1 and be as good when they come to be scalded as if they were fresh gather'd4 ,but they may also be preserv'd after the following manner4 ,second ,way to preserve ,artichokes4 ,having chosen your ,artichokes according to the above ,directions1 cut the ,bottoms1 with a sharp ,knife1 clear of their ,leaves and their ,chokes1 flinging them immediately into cold ,water1 to prevent their turning black4 ,when they have lain in the ,water for seven or eight ,minutes1 wash them and drain them a little1 and then fling them into ,wheat or ,barley ,flower1 so that they be all over cover'd with it2 after which1 lay them upon ,wire ,sieves1 or ,pieces of ,wicker-work to dry in an ,oven gently1 till they are quite dry and hard3 these must be kept in a dry ,place1 and when they are to be used1 steep them in ,water four and twenty ,hours1 and boil them till they are tender1 they will eat as well as if they were fresh cut4 ,the ,artichoke may likewise be pickled in the following manner4 ,to preserve ,artichokes by ,pickling4 ,gather and prepare your ,artichokes as before1 and put them into cold ,water to boil1 with a moderate quantity of ,salt2 then take them off the ,fire1 and let the ,water stand in the ,kettle for a quarter of an hour1 till the ,salt is settled to the bottom2 then pour off your ,water clear into an ,earthen glazed ,vesel where you design to put your ,artichokes1 and clearing them from the ,leaves and ,choaks1 wash them well in two or three ,waters1 and put them in the ,brine or ,pickle they were boiled in1 when both are quite cold2 upon which pour as much ,oil as will cover it half an ,inch thick1 or where ,oil is wanting1 melted ,butter will serve3 be sure you put so much as will keep the ,air from the ,artichokes4 ,some will add some ,vinegar to the ,water1 but that is at pleasure2 when this is done1 cover the top of the ,earthen ,pot close with ,paper1 and lay a ,board over it to keep it from any ,air1 or else cover the ,pot with a wet ,bladder1 and tie it down close4 ,they will keep good a ,year1 and when we want to use them1 lay them to steep in cold ,water to take out the ,salt2 you may shift the ,water three or four times1 they will be the better for it1 and then use them in ,pyes1 or other compound ,dishes4 ,in ,holland ,i have often eaten the small ,suckers of ,artichokes fry'd1 which have made an agreeable ,dish4 ,the ,receipt for preparing them is the following4 ,to fry small ,suckers of ,artichokes1 or small ,artichokes4 ,gather the young ,heads of ,artichokes1 and boil them with ,salt and ,water till they are tender2 these ,artichokes should be no bigger than middling ,apples2 split these in four or six ,parts each1 flower them well1 and fry them crisp in ,hogs-lard1 and eat them with ,butter1 ,pepper1 and a little ,verjuice or ,orange-,juice4 ,it is a common practice in ,france to eat the small ,heads of ,artichokes raw1 with ,vinegar1 ,pepper1 and ,salt2 the ,method is to pull off the single ,leaves1 and dip the fleshy part of the ,leaves into it and eat that4 ,they are agreeably bitter1 and create an ,appetite4 ,this ,month ,rasberries are ripe2 and as they make a most pleasant ,wine1 ,i shall here give the ,receipt for making it4 ,to make ,rasberry ,wine4 ,to every ,quart of the ,juice of ,rasberries1 put a ,pint of ,water1 and to every ,quart of ,liquor a ,pound of fine ,sugar2 then set it on the ,fire to boil half an hour1 taking off the ,scum as it rises3 then set it to cool1 and when it is quite cold1 put it in a ,vessel and let it stand ten ,weeks or something more if the ,weather prove cold2 when it is settled1 bottle it1 and it will keep two ,years4 ,altho' ,i have set down in this ,month a good experienced way of making ,goosberry ,wine1 which will keep twenty ,years1 and grow better by ,age2 yet ,i cannot pass by a ,receipt which is highly commended for making ,wine of ,red ,goosberries1 which ,i had from an ,acquaintance who frequently makes it4 ,to make ,red ,goosberry ,wine4 ,when the ,red ,goosberries are well colour'd and not over-ripe1 but grateful to the ,taste1 gather them in a dry ,day2 take a ,peck of these1 and slit them a little more than half thro' the middle1 putting them into a large glazed ,earthen ,pan1 with eight ,pounds of fine powder'd ,sugar strew'd over them2 then boil four ,gallons of ,cyder1 and pour it boiling hot upon the ,sugar and ,goosberries3 this must stand eight or ten ,days1 stirring it once each ,day1 and at length strain it thro' a ,flannel in a ,press1 and put the ,liquor into the ,vessel with a warm ,toast of ,wheat-bread1 spread on both sides with ,ale-,yeast2 this must stand two or three ,months till it is fine1 and then bottle it4 ,this is a very strong ,wine1 and of a bright red ,colour4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,july4 ,this ,month is the principal ,season for pickling of ,cucumbers1 for that ,fruit is now in the greatest ,perfection1 as well for pickling them in imitation of ,mango's1 or as ,girkins4 ,they are now to be had in great plenty1 and are free from ,spots4 ,the following is an extraordinary ,receipt for pickling of ,cucumbers to imitate ,mango's4 ,gather large ,cucumbers of as green a ,colour as may be1 wash them well in common ,water1 and then either cut off their ,tops1 and scoop out all the seedy part1 or else cut a ,slice out of the ,side of each of them1 and scrape out the seedy part with a small ,spoon1 taking care not to mismatch the ,slices or ,tops of the ,cucumbers1 that they may tie up the better when we come to fill them with ,spices1 c4 ,when we have thus prepared enough to fill the ,jar or ,earthen ,vessel which we design for them1 peel some ,garlick or ,shalots1 which you like best1 and put either two ,cloves of ,shalot into each ,cucumber1 or one middling ,clove of ,garlick2 and also into every one put a thin slice or two of ,horse-radish1 a slice of ,ginger1 and1 according to custom1 a ,tea ,spoonful of whole ,mustard-seed2 but1 in my opinion1 that may be left out4 ,then putting on the tops of the ,cucumbers1 or the ,slices that were cut out of them1 tie them close with strong ,thread1 and place them in your ,jar4 ,then prepare your ,pickle of ,vinegar1 which we suppose to be about five ,quarts to two dozen of large ,cucumbers1 to which put about a ,pound of ,bay-,salt1 half an ,ounce of whole ,pepper1 about an ,ounce of ,ginger sliced1 and a large ,root of ,horse-radish sliced2 boil these in a brass ,sauce-pan for about fifteen ,minutes1 taking off the ,scum as it rises1 and then pour it upon your ,cucumbers1 and cover the top of the ,vessel with a coarse ,linnen ,cloth four or five times double1 and set the ,vessel near the ,fire to keep warm2 the day following you will find them changed to a yellow ,colour1 but that will alter in a day or two to be much greener than they were at first1 if you use the following ,method3 ,pour all your ,pickle into a brass ,skellet1 and add to it a piece of ,allum as big as a ,walnut1 and set it over the ,fire till it boils1 then pour it on your ,cucumbers as before1 and repeat the same every day till the ,cucumbers are of the ,greenness you desire4 ,when you have pour'd on your ,pickle for the last time1 the ,jar must be cover'd as before1 but remain without ,corking till it is quite cold1 then stop it close and set it by1 in a dry place4 ,the ,corks for the stopping of these ,jars should be cover'd with soft glove-leather1 for the naked ,corks will make the ,pickles musty4 ,see the ,mango's made of green ,melons in the ,month of ,september4 ,to preserve ,green ,cucumbers for slicing in the ,winter1 by ,mr4 ,foord of ,buckingham4 ,gather ,cucumbers half grown1 that is1 before they incline to be seedy1 put them in ,salt and ,water for five or six days1 shifting it every day2 then wipe them dry1 and put them in ,vinegar with a little ,allum to green over the fire2 then take out the ,cucumbers1 and boil the pickle to pour hot upon them1 covering the ,mouth of the ,jar with a coarse ,cloath four or five times doubled1 and let the ,jar stand near the fire4 ,when this ,pickle is quite cold1 stop the ,jar close with a leather'd ,cork1 as mention'd in the foregoing ,receipt for ,mango ,cucumbers4 ,these ,cucumbers may be used in the ,winter to be pared and sliced like those gather'd fresh from the ,garden2 you may cut an ,onion with them1 and eat them with ,pepper1 ,vinegar and ,oil4 ,to ,pickle ,cucumbers1 from ,mr4 ,foord of ,buckingham4 ,gather the smallest ,cucumbers you can find1 for it is the smallest ,size1 which is most commonly brought to table among ,people of the first ,rank2 tho' a ,cucumber of two ,inches long will do very well1 or even one of three ,inches4 ,these must be put in ,salt and ,water1 to be shifted every day till they change to a yellow colour3 wipe them dry1 and prepare ,pickle of ,vinegar1 a piece of ,allum as big as a ,wallnut to a gallon1 or in proportion1 ,ginger diced1 ,mace1 whole ,pepper1 a few ,bay-leaves1 and some ,dill-,seed1 which will do better than the ,herb it self4 ,tye the ,seeds in a piece of ,muslin1 that when the ,pickle by boiling is strong enough of the ,dill1 you may take it out4 ,this ,pickle1 when it is of a right flavour1 must be pour'd boiling hot upon the ,cucumbers1 which must be laid in a ,stone ,jar or ,gallypot proper for them1 and then cover'd with a coarse ,linnen ,cloth folded in several ,doubles1 and let them stand near the fire3 ,repeat the boiling of the ,pickle every day1 pouring it hot upon the ,cucumbers1 and covering them as before1 till they become of the green colour you desire4 ,when they are quite cold1 stop them up close with a leather'd ,cork1 as directed in the former ,receipt1 if you use a ,jar1 or else if you make use of a ,gallypot1 tye them down with ,leather or a wet ,bladder4 ,it is to be understood1 that ,allum and boiling ,vinegar will strike a green colour to any unripe ,fruit2 but care must be taken that too much ,allum be not used1 left the stomach be offended by it4 ,it is a custom in some places to pickle the green ,pods of ,capsicum ,indicum with their ,cucumbers1 which will contribute to make them much hotter or warmer to the ,stomach1 and promote ,digestion in cold ,constitutions4 ,but the ,capsicums should be boiled in ,water gently1 and wiped dry1 before you put them among the ,cucumbers1 where they must be placed before the ,pickle is poured upon them4 ,kidney-,beans are pickled the same way as the ,cucumbers1 only leaving out the ,dill2 and the ,dill also may be left out of the ,cucumber-,pickle1 if it is not agreeable to the ,palate2 and so likewise in other ,pickles1 ,garlick or ,onions1 or any particular ,spice may be left out which is disagreeable1 for it is not the business here to pin down the ,palate of any one to a certain ,relish that ,i may like my self1 but to put it in the power of every one to preserve or order such things as a ,farm or ,garden affords1 so that they may be pleased with them4 ,the ,receipts which ,i have here given1 are what ,i have generally found to be the most approved4 ,we have some who pickle the green ,fruit of the ,passion-,tree1 the ,berougella1 and ,fig3 but for my part ,i can find nothing to recommend them1 but the relish of the ,pickle1 neither are they by any means wholesome4 ,the ,flowers of the ,nasturtium ,indicum make an excellent ,sallad in this ,month1 and the ,seeds of the ,plant1 while they are green1 may be pickled to our satisfaction3 the ,receipt for pickling them is as follows4 ,to pickle ,nasturtium ,seeds4 ,gather the ,seeds when they are full grown and green1 in a dry day1 and lay them in ,salt and ,water for two or three days2 then boil ,vinegar1 with some ,mace1 ,ginger sliced1 and a few ,bay-,leaves1 for fifteen ,minutes1 and pour it boiling hot upon them1 covering them with a ,cloth1 as prescribed in this ,month for the other ,pickles1 and repeat the boiling of the ,pickle1 and scalding them with it for three days successively2 and when the last is poured on1 let it be cold before you cork it up4 ,the folded ,cloth which should be put over the ,mouth of the ,jar1 will suffer some of the ,steam of the ,pickle to pass thro' it1 and by that means the ,pickles will not turn mouldy1 so soon as they might otherwise do1 and besides will be much greener than if they were to be close stopped4 ,all these ,pickles should be kept in a dry ,place1 and look'd into every ,month1 lest by chance they turn mouldy2 which if you find they incline to1 boil the ,pickle afresh1 and pour it on them as before4 ,there is now the ,skerret fit to be eaten2 it is a very nourishing and pleasant ,root1 and is prepared in the following manner for the ,table3 the ,culture of it is set forth at large in my new ,improvements of ,planting and ,gardening1 printed for ,mr4 ,mears1 near ,temple-,bar1 ,the ,skerret1 tho' it is none of the largest ,roots1 yet is certainly one of the best ,products of the ,garden1 if it be rightly dress'd2 the way of doing which1 is to wash the ,roots very well1 and boil them till they are tender1 which need not be very long4 ,then the ,skin of the ,roots must be taken off1 and a ,sauce of melted ,butter and ,sack pour'd over them4 ,in this manner are they serv'd at the ,table1 and eaten with the ,juice of ,orange1 and some likewise use ,sugar with them1 but the ,root is very sweet of itself4 ,some1 after the ,root is boil'd1 and the ,skin is taken off1 fry them1 and use the ,sauce as above3 ,so likewise the ,roots of ,salsify and ,scorzoncra are to be prepared for the ,table4 ,the ,apple call'd the ,codlin is in good perfection for scalding1 the manner of doing which1 that they may be brought to ,table1 of a fine green ,colour1 is as follows4 ,gather your ,codlins half grown1 and without ,spots1 for if they are spotted1 they are commonly ,worm-eaten2 scald them in ,water till the ,skin will come off easily1 then put them again into cold ,water1 and a small piece of ,allum to green in a ,brass ,pan over the ,fire2 which they will soon do if they are kept close cover'd4 ,the following ,receipt is sent me by a curious ,person for pickling of ,codlins1 in imitation of ,mango4 ,gather ,codlins green and near full grown1 blanch them1 that is1 scald them in soft ,water till the ,skin will peel off1 then prepare your ,pickle of ,vinegar and ,bay ,salt1 about a large ,spoonful of ,salt to a ,quart of ,vinegar1 three or four ,cloves of ,garlick1 a quarter of an ,ounce of ,ginger sliced1 and as much whole ,pepper2 boil this in a ,brass ,pan1 with a piece of ,allum as big as a ,horse-,bean1 for half a quarter of an hour1 and pour it hot upon your ,codlins1 covering the ,mouth of the ,jar with a ,cloth1 and let it stand by the ,fire-side2 boil the ,pickle again the day following1 and apply it as before1 and repeat the same till your ,codlins are as green as you desire1 and when they are quite cold1 cork them close1 and set them by in a dry place4 ,there is one thing must however be observed in all these ,picklings1 which is1 that if the ,pickles do not come to their fine green ,colour presently1 by boiling often of the ,pickle at first1 yet by standing three or four ,weeks1 and then boiling the ,pickle afresh1 they will come to a good ,colour2 and then your ,pickles will eat the firmer and keep the longer1 when they are not too soon brought to ,colour4 ,in this ,month we have the ,morello and ,black ,cherry ripe1 which both are pleasant in ,brandy2 to those who would have ,drams by them1 the way of making ,black-,cherry ,brandy1 is only to pick the ,cherries from the ,stalks1 and put them whole into the ,brandy1 about a ,pound of ,cherries to a ,quart2 this may remain for about a ,month before it is fit to drink1 and then the ,brandy may be pour'd from the ,cherries1 and the ,cherries put then into a ,vessel of ,ale will make it extremely strong1 only about the proportion of a ,pound of ,cherries to a ,gallon of ,ale2 but some will put fresh ,brandy to them1 and the ,cherries will turn the ,brandy of a deep ,colour1 and give it a strong taste of ,ratafia2 others will distill these ,cherries in a cold ,still1 with as much ,water as will cover them1 and draw a fine ,cordial from them4 ,to make ,visney4 ,this ,visney is made of pure ,brandy1 and as many ,morello ,cherries as will fill the ,bottles or ,casks1 with one ,ounce of ,loaf-,sugar to each full ,quart2 these ,vessels or ,bottles must be gently stopp'd1 when the ,cherries are put in1 and stand in a cool ,cellar for two ,months before the ,liquor is poured from them1 and then the ,liquor may be put in small ,bottles for use3 ,it is not very strong1 but very pleasant4 ,the ,cherries1 when they are taken out1 may be distill'd1 and will yield a fine ,spirit4 ,in some places1 where there are ,laurels grow wild1 without ,cutting or pruning1 ,i mean1 the ,lauro-,cerasus1 as we find in many old ,gardens1 that ,plant is apt to bear ,berries1 which in reality are ,cherries1 from whence it has its ,name2 these ,berries1 or ,cherries1 are ripe about this time1 and make a fine ,cordial1 if we infuse them in ,brandy for two or three ,months with a little ,sugar2 this will have a ,flavour of ,abricot ,kernels1 and be of a rich red ,colour4 ,while ,i am speaking of this1 ,i cannot help taking notice of a particular ,dram which ,i tasted at a curious ,gentleman's ,house at ,putney in ,surrey1 ,w4 ,curtis ,esq2 which he made by infusing of the ,cornelian ,cherry in ,brandy2 that ,gentleman is the only one who ,i think has yet tried it1 and to my ,palate it seems to be so like ,tockay ,wine1 that it must be a very good judge who can discover the difference4 ,i have drank that ,wine in perfection1 and this preparation has both the ,colour1 ,taste1 and ,proportion of strength equal to it2 for the great strength of the ,brandy is lost in the ,cornelian ,cherry1 and tho' the ,cornelian ,cherry is of a bright red ,colour1 yet this ,liquor is of the ,colour of ,tockay ,wine4 ,those who live near ,london1 may1 about this ,season1 buy ,geese out of the ,flocks1 which are now drove up to that ,city1 at about five and twenty1 or thirty ,shillings a score2 and till the ,season we are to turn them into the ,stubble1 we may feed them chiefly with the ,offals of the ,garden1 ,lettuce especially1 which will fatten them1 if you have enough3 but as for their particular ,feed for fatting1 ,i shall speak of that in another place4 ,about this ,season ,abricots are ripe1 and where there are plenty of them1 we may make a pleasant ,wine with them4 ,the following ,receipt is a very good one4 ,to make ,apricot ,wine4 ,from ,mrs4 ,j4 ,l4 ,to every ,quart of ,water put a ,pound and half of ,apricots1 that are not over-ripe1 let them be wiped clean1 and cut in pieces2 boil these till the ,liquor is strong of the ,apricot ,flavour2 then strain the ,liquor thro' a ,sieve1 and put to every ,quart four or five ,ounces of white ,sugar1 boil it again1 and scum it as it rises1 and when the ,scum rises no more1 pour it into an ,earthen ,pot2 the ,day following bottle it1 putting into every ,bottle a lump of ,loaf-,sugar1 as big as a ,nutmeg4 ,this will presently be fit for drinking1 is a very pleasant ,liquor2 but will not keep long4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,august4 ,in this ,month there are many ,delicacies about a ,country ,seat2 all kinds of ,pond-,fish are good1 there is plenty of ,poultry of all kinds1 wild and tame1 except the ,water-,fowl1 which should yet remain untouch'd4 ,turkey ,poults1 ,pheasant ,poults1 ,partridges1 and some sort of ,pigeons1 are good2 but for the most part the ,dove-cote ,pigeons are distemper'd1 and are now full of ,knots in their ,skins1 and unwholesome4 ,the ,eggs of ,fowls likewise at this ,season1 as well as in the former ,month1 are unhealthful4 ,towards the end1 ,pork comes again in ,season1 and young ,pigs also are pretty plentiful2 'tis a good time likewise to save young ,pigs to grow up for now you may turn them with their ,dams into the ,stubbles1 and soon after into the ,woods4 ,about the end of this ,month1 you have ,rabbets full grown in common ,warrens1 and young wild ,ducks2 and those who live near the ,sea1 have plenty of ,oysters1 and in great perfection1 much better1 in my opinion1 than in the ,winter4 ,hares are also now good1 and ,buck ,venison is still good4 ,turnips1 ,carrots1 ,cabbages1 ,caulyflowers1 ,artichokes1 ,melons1 ,cucumbers1 and such like1 are in prime2 ,sallary and ,endive1 ,nasturtium ,indicum ,flowers1 ,cabbage ,lettice1 and blanch'd sweet ,fennel is now good for ,sallads4 ,peas and ,beans1 and ,kidney-beans1 are likewise to be met with1 so that a ,country ,gentleman and ,farmer may have every thing at home1 and let out a ,table fit for a ,prince1 without being beholden to the ,markets2 and the great variety of ,fruits which this ,season produces1 renders it still more delightful and profitable4 ,now ,elder-berries are ripe and fit for making of ,wine1 as well the white as the red sort3 these are both very good1 if they are rightly managed4 ,the following drinks very much like the ,french ,wine call'd ,hermitage1 and is full as strong4 ,to make red ,elder ,wine4 ,take twenty ,pounds of ,malaga ,raisins pick'd and rubb'd clean1 but not wash'd2 shred them small1 and steep them in five ,gallons of ,spring ,water1 putting the ,water cold to them1 and stirring them every day2 then pass the ,liquor thro' a ,hair ,sieve1 pressing the ,raisins with your ,hands1 and have in readiness six ,pints of the ,juice of ,elder-,berries that have been first pick'd from the ,stalks1 and then drawn by boiling the ,berries in a glaz'd ,earthen ,pot1 set in a ,pan of ,water over the ,fire4 ,put this ,juice cold into the ,liquor1 stirring it well together1 and then tunning it in a ,vessel that will just hold it1 and let it stand six ,weeks or two ,months in a warm place2 then bottle it1 and it will keep a ,year if the ,bottles are well stopp'd4 ,note1 that the ,elder-,berries must be full ripe1 and gather'd in a dry day2 and when you have tunn'd your ,wine1 let the place where you set it be warm and dry1 where no external ,air is admitted1 that it may ferment or work duly1 for that is a material point4 ,if it be otherwise disposed1 so that it stands in a place which is subject to ,heats and ,cold1 the ,ferment will stop upon ,cold1 or be too violent upon ,heats2 but in cold ,weather put some ,straw about it4 ,see more of the working of ,liquors in ,march1 in the ,article of ,brewing1 and likewise take care that your ,bottles are dry when you bottle your ,wine1 and that you have good ,corks2 take care likewise that your ,wine be clear before you bottle it1 or it will be good for nothing4 ,if this ,wine be rightly managed according to the above ,directions1 it will be fit for drinking after it has been bottled a ,month4 ,in the making of white ,elder-,wine1 there is no difference if you make it with ,raisins2 but it is much the best1 in my ,opinion1 if you make it with ,sugar after the following manner3 only it is to be consider'd1 that white ,elder-,berries are yet very scarce1 and there must be more of them used in the ,sugar ,wine than in the ,raisin ,wine4 ,to make white ,elder-,wine1 or red ,elder-,wine1 with ,sugar4 ,gather the ,elder-,berries ripe and dry1 pick them1 bruise them with your ,hands1 and strain them2 then set the ,liquor by in glaz'd earthen ,vessels for twelve hours to settle1 then put to every pint of ,juice a pint and half of ,water1 and to every ,gallon of this ,liquor put three ,pounds of ,lisbon ,sugar3 set this in a ,kettle over the ,fire1 and when it is ready to boil1 clarify it with the ,whites of four or five ,eggs2 let it boil an hour1 and when it is almost cold1 work it with some strong ,ale-,yeast1 and then tun it1 filling up the ,vessel from time to time with the same ,liquor saved on purpose1 as it sinks by working4 ,in a ,month's time1 if the ,vessel holds about eight ,gallons1 it will be fine and fit to bottle1 and after bottling1 will be fit to drink in two ,months3 but remember1 that all ,liquors must be fine before they are bottled1 or else they will grow sharp and ferment in the ,bottles1 and never be good for any thing4 ,n4,b4 ,add to every ,gallon of this ,liquor a ,pint of strong ,mountain ,wine1 but not such as has the ,borachio or ,hogskin flavour4 ,this ,wine will be very strong and pleasant1 and will keep several ,years4 ,we must prepare our ,red ,elder-,wine in the same manner that we make with ,sugar1 and if our ,vessel hold about eight or ten ,gallons1 it will be fit for ,bottling in about a ,month2 but if the ,vessel be larger1 it must stand longer in proportion1 three or four ,months at least for a ,hogshead4 ,this ,month ,barberries are ripe and fit for pickling2 they make a pretty ,garnish1 and are prepared as follows4 ,to pickle ,barberries1 or ,pipperages1 as call'd in some places4 ,gather your ,barberries in dry ,weather1 and lay them in their ,bunches into an earthen glazed ,pot1 then boil a quantity of ,water made strong with ,salt1 scumming it as it rises1 and let it stand to be quite cold2 then pour it upon the ,barberries1 so as to cover them an ,inch1 and cover it close4 ,some use half ,vinegar and half ,water for this ,pickle1 but it is at every one's pleasure1 ,i think one is as good as the other4 ,partridges are now in ,season1 and are prepared after several manners2 some of the principal are the following4 ,boil'd ,partridges with stew'd ,sallary1 from ,lady ,w------4 ,the ,partridges being clean'd and trussed1 boil them tender1 and make the following ,sauce for them4 ,take half a score large ,sallary ,plants that are well whiten'd or blanched1 boil them first in ,water and ,salt1 and then stew them tender with ,gravey1 ,salt1 some ,pepper1 and a ,spoonful or two of ,white wine2 and when they are enough1 thicken and brown the ,sauce they are stew'd in with burnt ,butter1 lay your ,sallary at the bottom of the ,dish1 and your ,partridges upon that1 then pour your ,sauce over all1 and garnish with ,lemmon or ,orange slic'd4 ,this is the method of stewing ,sallary1 which is an agreeable ,plate of itself4 ,from the same ,lady ,i had the following ,directions for roasted ,partridges3 ,partridges which are designed for roasting may be larded with fine ,bacon ,fat on the ,breast1 or roasted without larding2 but in a ,dish of these ,fowls1 there should be some of one and some of the other4 ,the ,sauce for them should be of two sorts1 one of ,gravey in the ,dish with them1 and the other of ,bread in ,saucers on the sides of the ,dish4 ,the ,gravey is made of ,beef1 an ,onion1 a ,bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,salt and ,pepper1 stew'd half an hour together1 in a little more ,water than will cover them1 then strain off the ,liquor into the ,dish4 ,the ,pap-,sauce1 or ,bread-,sauce1 is made of grated ,crumb of ,bread1 boiled with as much ,water as will cover it1 a little ,butter1 an ,onion1 and some whole ,pepper2 this must be kept stirring often1 and when it is very thick1 withdraw the ,onion1 and serve it in a ,saucer with your ,partridges4 ,these ,sauces may likewise be served with ,pheasants1 or ,quails4 ,these may also be stew'd1 farced1 baked1 or put in ,soups1 or used in ,fricassees4 ,thus far the ,lady4 ,hares begin now to be in ,season1 and are well dress'd by the following ,receipt1 which ,i purchased a few ,years ago1 at a noted ,tavern in ,london4 ,a ,hare and its ,sauces4 ,if you kill a ,hare by ,coursing1 you may keep it if the ,weather be cool three days before you roast it2 or if it has been run hard by the ,hounds1 then it will not keep so long4 ,when the ,skin is taken off1 it is the fashion to leave the ,ears on1 but that is at pleasure2 then truss it for ,roasting1 and take the ,liver and boil it1 and mince it very small2 add to this grated ,bread1 a little ,all-,spice1 but fine1 some butter'd ,eggs1 a little dry'd sweet ,marjoram1 with a ,seasoning of ,pepper and ,salt at discretion1 and some ,parsley shred small3 ,mix this well together1 and add the ,yolk of an ,egg to it to bind it2 then fill the ,body of the ,hare moderately with this ,farce1 and sew up the ,belly4 ,when the ,hare is first laid down to the fire1 put about three pints of ,water with an ,onion1 some ,salt and whole ,pepper1 in the ,dripping-pan1 and baste the ,hare with this till it is near roasted enough1 and baste it with a piece of fat burning ,bacon1 or in the place of that1 common ,butter2 but the ,bacon is best1 if the ,person knows how to use it4 ,when it is enough1 pour the following ,sauce into the ,dish with it3 ,take the ,liquor1 with the ,onion and ,pepper in the ,dripping-pan1 out before you baste the ,hare with ,butter or ,bacon1 and boil it with a glass of ,claret2 it will be very rich when it comes to be mixt with the ,farce out of the ,belly of the ,hare1 and is little trouble4 ,you may thicken this with a little ,butter and ,flower1 if you please4 ,the following is also a very good one3 ,take a pound of lean ,beef1 boil it in about three pints of ,water with an ,onion1 a ,bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,all-spice1 ,pepper and ,salt1 till the ,beef is boil'd half enough2 then cut the ,beef in several places to let out the ,gravey1 and continue to boil all those till the ,liquor has lost a third part2 then add a little ,claret to it1 and strain the ,liquor through a ,sieve1 pouring the ,gravey hot into the ,dish before you put the ,hare in it2 and when you lay in the ,hare1 cut away the part that was sew'd up1 or take away the thread that sew'd it4 ,some chuse to skewer up the ,belly of the ,hare1 rather than sew it4 ,you may serve this with ,lemmon sliced1 and in a plate by it have the following ,sauce4 ,sweet ,venison ,sauce4 ,take half a pint of ,claret1 a little ,stick of ,cinnamon1 and boil them together till the ,flavour of the ,cinnamon is in the ,claret2 then sweeten it to your mind with double-refined ,loaf-sugar4 ,or else1 ,grate some ,crumb of ,bread1 and put to it as much ,claret as will make it like thin ,pap2 add to this a small piece of ,cinnamon1 and boil it well1 then sweeten it with double-refined ,loaf-sugar grated small4 ,these are the sweet ,sauces used for ,hare1 and all other ,venison4 ,to dress a ,hare with ,white or ,brown ,sauce1 from the late curious ,mr4 ,harrison of ,henley upon ,thames4 ,cut your ,hare in four or eight pieces1 and slit the ,head2 fry it a little in ,hog's ,lard1 and then put it to stew in an earthen glazed ,vessel1 with ,gravey1 half a pint of ,white-wine1 ,pepper1 ,nutmeg1 ,salt1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and a slice or two of ,lemmon-,peel2 keep this close covered1 and stew it gently till 'tis tender1 then strain off the ,sauce1 and brown it with fry'd ,flower1 or burnt ,butter3 pour the ,sauce hot over the ,hare1 and serve it ,with a ,garnish of ,lemmon in ,slices2 but if you would have your ,sauce of brighter ,colour1 instead of the burnt ,butter1 or fry'd ,flower1 thicken it with the ,yolks of three or four ,eggs4 ,this is an excellent way of dressing a ,hare1 and more generally admired than any other4 ,this being the ,season for taking ,honey1 ,i shall here set down the ,method of making of ,mead1 after two ways1 which are both extraordinary4 ,to make ,mead1 from ,lady ,g4 ,take eight ,gallons of ,water1 and as much ,honey as will make it bear an ,egg2 add to this the ,rind of six ,lemmons1 and boil it well1 scumming it carefully as it rises4 ,when 'tis off the ,fire1 put to it the ,juice of the six ,lemmons1 and pour it into a clean ,tub1 or open earthen ,vessel1 if you have one large enough1 to work three ,days2 then scum it well1 and pour off the clear into the ,cask1 and let it stand open till it has done making a hissing ,noise2 after which1 stop it up close1 and in three ,months time it will be fine1 and fit for bottling4 ,to make ,hydromel1 or ,mead4 ,take eight ,gallons of ,water1 and as much ,honey as will make the ,water bear an ,egg2 put to this a quarter of a pound of ,cloves tied in three or four pieces of ,muslin or ,linnen ,cloth1 and set it to boil till the ,scum has done rising1 scumming it as it rises2 then take it off the ,fire1 and take out the ,cloves1 which may be wash'd and dry'd for other ,uses1 and pour your ,mead into an open ,tub to ferment for about three days1 till the ,violence of the ,working is over2 after which1 scum it very well1 and pour the clear into a ,vessel1 leaving the ,bung open till it has done hissing1 which you may know by holding your ,ear close to it1 for at a distance you can hardly discover it4 ,when this hissing is over1 stop it close1 and let it stand three ,months till it is fine1 before you bottle it2 remember in bottling this1 as well as all other ,liquors1 that the ,bottles must be clean1 and perfectly dry1 and that every ,bottle be well cork'd4 ,this will keep good several ,years4 ,besides this way of making ,mead1 there is another which ,i have approved to be very good1 which1 in all particulars1 except the ,water1 is the same with this2 and instead of the ,water1 put the like ,quantity of small ,ale-,wort1 brew'd with pale ,malt3 but this will require less ,honey than the former1 and will require more time in the ,vessel before it is fine and fit to bottle2 but it will last many ,years good1 and will drink like ,cyprus ,wine when it is a ,year old4 ,in this ,liquor1 take particular care that your ,cloves are fresh and sound1 for else you must add a ,quantity in proportion4 ,n4,b4 ,we may make these ,meads in the ,spring of the ,year1 as well as at this ,season2 only the advantage of making it now1 is1 that you have an opportunity of washing the ,honey-,combs after the ,honey is run off1 and thereby will save ,expence in ,honey4 ,the ,potatoe now begins to be gather'd1 and is a very useful ,root1 being either boil'd or roasted in hot ,embers2 and after it is boiled1 to be broiled1 or after boiling it tender1 and beaten in a ,mortar1 it is used to thicken ,sauces1 and for making of rich ,puddings1 as ,i am inform'd by a skilful ,person in this way4 ,the ,roots of red ,beets now begin to come in season1 and are very good boiled1 and sliced1 to be put in a ,pickle of ,vinegar only3 thus you may keep them to garnish ,sallads of small ,herbs1 and in some ,intervals put ,horse-,radish scraped4 ,these ,roots will hold all the ,winter4 ,the ,root of the red ,beet makes an excellent ,dish1 prepared after the following manner1 which ,i got abroad4 ,to fry the ,roots of ,red ,beets4 ,wash your ,beet-,roots1 and lay them in an earthen glazed ,pan1 bake them in an ,oven1 and then peel the ,skin off them3 after this is done1 slit them from the ,top to the ,tail1 and cut them in the shape of the ,fish call'd a ,sole1 about the thickness of the third part of an ,inch2 dip these in a thick ,batter1 made of ,white-,wine1 fine ,flower1 sweet ,cream1 the ,whites and ,yolks of ,eggs1 rather more ,yolks than ,whites1 some ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,cloves beaten fine1 all well mix'd4 ,as you dip every piece of ,beet-,root in this ,batter1 strew them over thick with fine ,flower mix'd with grated ,bread1 and ,parsley shred small1 and then fry them in ,lard3 when they are enough1 let them dry1 and serve them with a ,garnish of ,lemmon4 ,these likewise may be put about stew'd ,carps1 ,tench1 or roasted ,jacks1 by way of ,garnish1 with scraped ,horse-,radish1 and pickled ,barberries4 ,in the ,heats of this ,month1 the following ,jelly is used by a curious ,gentleman abroad1 who gave me the ,receipt of it1 under the ,name of ,the ,jelly of ,health3 ,it is of great use to weak ,people1 and extremely pleasant4 ,to make the ,jelly of ,health4 ,take some ,calves ,feet1 according to the ,jelly you design to make1 and also get a ,cock of the common ,poultry kind2 wash these well1 and put them in a ,kettle to boil1 with a proportionable ,quantity of ,water1 particularly taking off the ,scum as it rises4 ,when these ,meats are boiled almost to pieces1 it is a sign that your ,jelly is boiled enough2 but take care that it is not too stiff1 which you may try by taking a little out with a ,spoon1 and then setting it to cool4 ,then pour the ,liquor thro' a ,sieve into a ,stew-pan1 and take off all the ,fat2 after which1 put to the ,liquor a proportionable ,quantity of double-refined ,loaf-,sugar1 a small ,stick or two of ,cinnamon1 three or four ,cloves1 and the ,rinds of two or three ,lemmons3 boil all these together gently for about a quarter of an hour1 till it is well-tasted1 and then beat up the ,whites of four or five ,eggs1 with the ,juice of the six ,lemmons1 and pour them into the ,jelly1 stirring the whole a little time over the ,fire2 then let this ,mixture stand still upon the ,fire till it rises ready to boil over2 at which time1 you must take it off1 and pour it into the ,jelly-,bag1 and as it runs thro' into a ,pan set to receive it1 pour it again into the ,jelly-,bag for three or four times till it comes clear1 and then let it drop into ,jelly-,glasses4 ,sometimes1 the above ,gentleman told me1 he has put a little ,white-,wine into the ,liquor while the ,meats were boiling in it1 which he thinks helps it4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,september4 ,as this ,month produces great numbers of ,mushrooms in the ,fields1 it is now chiefly that we ought to provide ourselves with them for making of ,ketchup1 and ,mushroom ,gravey3 ,and it is also a proper ,season for pickling them4 ,indeed1 where we have ,mushroom-,beds1 we may do these ,works at any time of the ,year4 ,it is to be remark'd1 that the best ,mushrooms have their ,gills of a ,flesh ,colour1 even while the ,mushrooms are in button2 and as they tend to spread in their ,head1 or to open their ,cap1 the ,gills turn redder1 till at length1 when their ,heads are fully spread open1 they will become quite black4 ,these large-flap ,mushrooms are still good for stewing or broiling1 so long as they have no ,worms in them1 and the ,gills are then in the best state for making ,ketchup1 or ,mushroom-,gravey2 altho' the red ,gills will do1 but the smaller ,buttons are what most ,people covet for ,pickling4 ,in the gathering of ,mushrooms1 we are sure to meet with some of all sizes2 the very small for pickling1 the large ,buttons for stewing or making ,mushroom-,loaves1 and ,mushroom-,gravey1 and the large ,flaps for broiling or making of ,ragous1 or stewing1 and ,ketchup3 therefore to follow the common way1 we should make two or three ,parcels of them4 ,the cleaning of ,mushrooms1 or preparing them for any of the above ,uses1 will afford us nothing but what is useful2 the ,parings should be saved by themselves1 to be wash'd1 towards the making of what is called ,mushroom ,gravey2 the ,gills must be saved by themselves for making either ,ketchup1 or ,mushroom-,gravey2 and the ,parts towards the ,roots1 and the ,roots themselves1 must be kept to dry in the ,sun1 or a warm ,room1 to raise ,mushrooms from1 especially if they are of a large good sort that has red ,gills1 for those which have white ,gills1 prove oftentimes unwholesome1 and are apt to turn yellow when they are cut and put in ,water3 however1 some ,people eat of this sort1 and ,i have eaten of such a sort myself2 but as there are some with white ,gills that are deadly1 it is dangerous for unskilful ,persons to meddle with any of that fort3 and therefore ,i thought it convenient when ,i was in ,france1 to learn the ,method of raising them in ,beds1 that we might be sure of our sort1 and have them all the ,year about3 ,the ,method of doing which1 is in my ,appendix to my ,new ,improvements of ,planting and ,gardening1 printed for ,mr4 ,mears1 at ,temple-,bar4 ,the following ,receipts for making of ,mushroom-,ketchup1 and ,mushroom-,gravey1 ,i had from a ,gentleman named ,garneau1 whom ,i met at ,brussels1 and by ,experience find them to be very good4 ,to make ,mushroom ,ketchup4 ,take the ,gills of large ,mushrooms1 such as are spread quite open1 put them into a ,skellet of ,bell-,metal1 or a ,vessel of ,earthen-,ware glazed1 and set them over a gentle ,fire till they begin to change into ,water2 and then frequently stirring them till there is as much ,liquor come out of them as can be expected1 pressing them often with a ,spoon against the side of the ,vessel2 then strain off the ,liquor1 and put to every ,quart of it about eighty ,cloves1 if they are fresh and good1 or half as many more1 if they are dry1 or have been kept a long time1 and about a ,drachm of ,mace3 add to this about a ,pint of strong red ,port ,wine that has not been adulterated1 and boil them all together till you judge that every ,quart has lost about a fourth ,part or half a ,pint2 then pass it thro' a ,sieve1 and let it stand to cool1 and when it is quite cold1 bottle it up in dry ,bottles of ,pints or ,half-,pints1 and cork them close1 for it is the surest way to keep these kind of ,liquors in such small quantities as may be used quickly1 when they come to be exposed to the ,air1 for fear of growing mouldy3 but ,i have had a ,bottle of this sort of ,ketchup1 that has been open'd and set by for above a1 ,year1 that has not received the least ,damage2 and some ,acquaintance of mine have made of the same sort1 and have kept it in ,quart-,botles to use as occasion required1 and have kept it good much longer than ,i have done4 ,a little of it is very rich in any ,sauce1 and especially when ,gravey is wanting3 ,therefore it may be of service to ,travellers1 who too frequently meet with good ,fish1 and other ,meats1 in ,britain1 as well as in several other parts of ,europe1 that are spoiled in the dressing2 but it must be consider'd1 that there is no ,salt in this1 so that whenever it is used1 ,salt1 ,anchovies1 or other such like relishing things1 may be used with it1 if they are agreeable to the ,palate1 and so likewise with the ,mushroom ,gravey in the following ,receipt4 ,of ,mushroom ,gravey4 ,when you clean your ,mushrooms1 save the ,parings1 and wash them well from the ,dirt1 and then put to them the ,gills that have been scraped from the large ,buttons1 and with a very little ,water put them in a ,saucepan1 and stir them frequently till you have got all the juice from them2 then strain the ,liquor from them1 and set it by to cool1 or else till you have stew'd the ,mushrooms that they were taken from1 and then add the ,liquor of the stew'd ,mushrooms to the aforesaid ,liquor1 and boil them both together1 with about #hj ,cloves1 about a ,drachm of ,mace1 and two ,drachms of whole ,pepper to each ,quart of ,liquor1 which will be lit to take off the ,fire when it has lost about a third part by boiling2 then pass it thro' a dry ,sieve1 into a dry earthen ,pan1 and let it stand till it be quite cold before you bottle it1 observing then that the ,bottles be very dry1 for if they happen to be wet1 it will soon turn mouldy4 ,when the ,bottles are fill'd1 cork them well with sound new ,corks1 and tye a piece of ,bladder1 that has been softened in warm ,water1 over every ,cork as tight as possible1 and set the ,bottles in a dry ,place2 with this management it will keep a long time4 ,what ,i learn'd else from the above mention'd ,gentleman1 concerning the preparing of ,mushrooms for eating1 was1 that they should be always used when they are fresh gather'd1 and then only such as are without ,worms1 which may be easily perceived by cutting their ,stems cross-wise2 and also that as soon as the ,peel is pared off1 and the ,gills1 let the large ,mushrooms be cut into pieces1 of the bigness of ,nutmegs1 and thrown into ,water1 as well the ,stems as the ,caps1 for they are both good2 then wash them well1 and stew them a ,sauce-pan1 without putting any ,liquor to them1 or ,spice1 or ,salt1 till they have discharged a great deal of their own ,liquor1 and1 begin to grow tender2 you will then find them shrink into a very narrow compass1 and must have the greatest part of the ,liquor poured from them1 with which you may make the ,mushroom-,gravey abovemention'd4 ,the ,mushrooms being thus prepared1 put to them a ,seasoning of ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,mace1 and such other ,ingredients as will not rob the ,mushrooms too much of their own natural ,flavour1 and stir them frequently till they are enough2 then put a little ,white-wine and ,butter to them1 and they will make an excellent good ,dish3 or else they may be made brown with some burned ,butter1 or be made into a ,ragout4 ,as for the broiling of the ,caps of the large ,mushrooms1 the same ,person's ,receipt directs to rub the ,caps with ,butter on both sides1 and strew ,pepper and ,salt on them1 and broil them till they are quite hot through1 turning them two or three times on the ,fire1 they will make their own ,sauce when they come to be cut4 ,another way which he directs1 is to make a pretty thick ,batter of ,flower1 ,water1 or ,milk and ,eggs beaten together with some ,salt and ,pepper1 to dip them in1 and then fry them like ,tripe2 and for their ,sauce1 he recommends ,butter1 a little ,white-wine1 and some of the ,mushroom-,gravey1 to be well mix'd together4 ,some of my ,acquaintance1 who have try'd these ,directions1 approve of them2 and1 for my own part1 ,i think them as agreeable as any that ,i have eaten3 but as the ,taste is not alike in every one1 ,i shall add an ,observation or two more of ,monsieur ,garneau's1 concerning the ,mushroom1 which ,i think not unworthy our notice4 ,the ,mushroom1 says that ,gentleman1 is not only a good ,groundwork for all high ,sauces1 but itself a good ,meat to be dress'd after any manner1 either to compose a white or brown ,fricassee1 or fry'd or broil'd1 or baked in ,pyes with common ,seasoning1 and stands in the room of ,flesh better than any thing that has yet been found out4 ,this ,month is likewise a good time1 if it is not over-wet1 to gather ,mushroooms for drying2 but they should chiefly be such as are newly open'd in their ,caps1 before the ,gills turn black4 ,for this end1 take off the ,gills very clean1 and wipe the ,caps with wet ,flannel1 and as soon as they are a little dry1 run a ,string through them1 and hang them at some distance from the ,fire1 turning them now and then till they are dry enough to be reduced to ,powder4 ,when they are thus dry'd1 keep them in dry ,bottles with wide ,necks1 close stopp'd1 till you have occasion to use them in ,sauces4 ,keep this in a dry place4 ,some dry them in ,ovens after the ,bread is drawn1 but an ,oven in its full heat will be too strong for them4 ,to pickle ,mushrooms ,white4 ,take a ,quart of small ,buttons of ,mushrooms1 cut off their ,roots1 and wash them well with a ,flannel dipt in ,water1 and then fling them into clean ,water1 to remain there about two hours4 ,in the next place1 get ready some fresh ,water in a well-tinn'd ,vessel1 or glaz'd ,vessel1 to which put your ,mushrooms1 and let them boil a little to soften2 which being done1 take out your ,mushrooms1 and presently put them into cold ,water1 and let them remain there till they are quite cold2 after this1 free them from the ,water1 and dry them well in a linnen ,cloth1 then put them either into a wide-neck'd ,bottle1 or glaz'd ,earthen-,vessel1 disposing here and there among them three or four ,bay-leaves to a ,quart1 two ,nutmegs cut in quarters1 about a quarter of an ,ounce of ,mace1 and boil as much ,white-,wine and ,vinegar1 in equal quantities1 as will serve to cover the ,mushrooms4 ,this ,pickle must be put to them cold1 and the ,bottle1 or ,earthen-,vessel1 close stopt and ty'd down with a wet ,bladder4 ,the reason why the ,spice should not be boiled with the ,pickle1 is1 because the ,mushrooms would change black by means of the boil'd ,spices2 and if this plain ,pickle was to be pour'd upon the ,mushrooms hot1 it would immediately draw a ,colour from the ,spices1 which would darken the ,colour of the ,mushrooms3 therefore to fill up the glasses in the manner here related1 is the best way to have your ,mushrooms look clean and white4 ,this ,month is the proper time to pickle ,onions1 which make an agreeable ,pickle if they are prepared after the following manner4 ,to pickle ,onions1 from ,mrs4 ,a4 ,w4 ,when your ,onions are dry enough to be laid up in the ,house1 take the smallest of them1 such as are about the bigness of a small ,walnut1 and of that sort which we call the ,spanish ,onion1 for these are not so strong flavour'd as the ,strasburgh ,onions2 take off only the outward dry ,coat1 and boil them in one ,water without shifting1 till they begin to grow tender2 then take them off the ,fire1 lay them in a ,sieve or ,cullendar to drain and cool2 and as soon as they are quite cold1 take off two other ,coats or ,skins from each1 and rub them gently in a linnen ,cloth to dry4 ,when this is done1 put them into wide-mouth'd ,glasses1 with about six or eight fresh ,bay-leaves to a ,quart1 a quarter of an ,ounce of ,mace1 two large ,rases of ,ginger sliced4 ,all these ,ingredients must be interspersed here and there in the ,glasses among the ,onions1 and then boil your ,vinegar with about two ,ounces of ,bay-,salt to each ,quart1 taking off the ,scum as it rises1 and letting it stand to be cold2 pour it into the ,glasses1 and cover them close with wet ,bladders1 and tie them down2 they will eat well1 and look very white4 ,about the end of this ,month1 if the ,season has been tolerable1 the ,grapes in our ,english ,vineyards will be ripe1 and then we must be careful to gather them in dry ,weather1 that the ,wine may keep the better4 ,i have already mention'd1 in my other ,works1 the curious ,vineyard near ,bath1 and that belonging to ,mr4 ,john ,warner at ,rotherhith1 where good ,wines are made every year2 and also that at ,darking in ,surrey1 belonging to ,mr4 ,howard1 which is a very good one3 but as some years are less favourable than others to the ,grape1 as well with us as abroad1 it will not be unnecessary to take notice of a few ,particulars1 which ,i have observ'd this year #agbf1 concerning the management of ,vines1 which ,i have only communicated to a few4 ,i shall also set down a few ,directions for the making of ,wine1 which have not been hitherto mention'd in any of my ,works1 or by ,mr4 ,evelyn1 or ,mr4 ,mortimer4 ,as to the first1 we are to observe1 that the ,situation of our ,island occasions our ,seasons to be more uncertain than on the ,continent1 or between the ,tropics4 ,the cold and wet ,summer1 #agbe1 prevented the ripening of our later kind of ,grapes2 and indeed ,i did not meet anywhere with a ,grape that had its perfect ,flavour1 unless the ,vines were forced2 but yet there were abundance4 ,however1 this ,year1 #agbf1 on the contrary1 there are very few ,grapes1 and those are likely to be very good1 some being already ripe against common ,walls1 without ,art2 such as the white ,muscadine the #bdth of ,july1 and black ,cluster-,grape4 ,and at ,sir ,nicholas ,garrard's ,garden in ,essex1 ,i eat some of the black ,frontiniack full in perfection1 at the same time2 and then the grisly and white ,frontiniack ,grapes1 which are the latest kinds1 were transparent1 and within a little of being fit to gather3 which is a ,novelty so great1 that has not been observ'd in ,england in my time2 for the ,frontiniack ,grapes seldom ripen till the end of ,september1 and then in a bad ,year we cannot expect them without ,art4 ,however1 the ,vines in this worthy ,gentleman's ,garden are of long standing1 and have been1 by his own ,directions1 order'd and manag'd in a very artful manner for several ,years4 ,and tho' this ,year generally we find so small a quantity in other ,gardens1 yet at this place there are as many as ,i judge are in the whole ,county besides4 ,in most other places that ,i have observ'd this ,year1 the common way of management has been rather regarded than the rational part2 and even the best ,gardeners have fail'd in their ,pruning the last ,year1 for the production of this ,year's ,fruit4 ,i much wonder1 that after the ,demonstrations ,i have given from ,facts1 ever since the ,year #agag1 that ,vines would grow and prosper well to be planted in old dry ,walls2 and the ,instances ,i publish'd in the same ,year1 in my new ,improvements1 of ,vines bearing best in dry ,rubbish1 or the most dry ,soil3 ,i say1 it is surprizing1 that some of those to whom ,i gave that satisfaction1 should not guard against excess of ,wet1 especially when every one1 who has judgment in the ,affair of ,vegetation1 must know1 that over-abundant ,moisture will destroy the bearing ,quality of any ,plant1 and more especially of such a kind of ,plant as delights in dry mountainous ,countries1 as the ,vine is known to do2 but a common method of ,management has so possess'd some ,people1 that they will not give themselves leave to think that an ,alteration of a ,season from a dry to a wet1 will occasion an alteration in a ,plant4 ,there is one ,instance particularly1 which ,i cannot help mentioning1 relating to ,vines1 and the neccessity of keeping their ,roots from ,wet1 which ,i observ'd this ,year at ,twittenham1 at ,john ,robarts's ,esq4 ,this ,gentleman has several ,vines laid up against the side of his ,house1 as full of ,grapes as ,i have ever seen any2 but at the bottom where they grow1 the ,ground is paved with ,bricks for about ten or twelve foot from the ,wall they are nail'd to4 ,this ,pavement1 in the last wet ,summer1 kept the ,roots from imbibing1 or receiving too much ,moisture1 and therefore the ,juices of the ,vines were digested1 and capable of producing ,fruit this ,year2 whereas such ,vines as were not growing in dry places naturally1 or had their ,roots defended from the violent ,wet by accident1 have few or no ,grapes at all4 ,my ,observations this ,year1 in some places where there are ,pavements1 still confirms me in my ,opinion2 and where there was any tolerable ,skill in ,pruning1 ,i am persuaded every one will find that there have been ,grapes this ,year1 or now are on those ,vines that have stood in paved places1 where the ,pavement defended the ,roots from the wet of the last ,year4 ,and as ,i have already mention'd in this1 and other ,works1 the neccessity of planting ,vines in dry places1 for regular ,seasons2 and these ,instances showing us the advantage of doing the same in wet ,seasons2 ,i think one may reasonably judge1 that ,pavements made over such places where ,vines are planted1 as well as ,rubbish and dry ,ground to plant them in1 is the best way we can take for them4 ,this way1 particularly in a wet ,year1 will keep our ,vines from running into long ,joints1 and the ,juices consequently in digesting1 as we find by experience2 for no long-jointed ,shoots of ,vines are fruitful as they ought to be1 and rarely bear any ,fruit at all4 ',tis the short-jointed ,shoots that will bear ,fruit plentifully2 and where there is much ,wet at the ,root1 you must expect very few short ,joints1 and also very little ,fruit3 therefore1 in this case1 the ,roots ought always to be defended from ,wet4 ,this ,year1 #agbf1 was1 at the beginning1 a gentle and moist ,spring1 but ,april and ,may were hot2 which brought every thing so forward1 that our ,harvest was about five or six ,weeks forwarder than it has been for several ,years past4 ,the ,case ,i have mention'd of the ,grapes ripening naturally1 was in proportion to the forwardness of the ,harvest2 every thing that ,i have observed in the same way was alike4 ,the last ,year was as extraordinary in the lateness of ,crops1 for then everything was as backward through the perpetual ,rain we had in the ,summer4 ,sometime or other this ,memorandum may be of use1 if my ,papers last so long2 however1 for the present1 consider how these two different ,years have affected the ,vine2 the last wet ,year made the ,vines shoot strong and vigorous1 and there was no ,fruit this ,year3 nor was this only with us in ,britain2 but every where in ,europe4 ,the last ,year produced such ,floods1 from the continued ,rains at unexpected ,seasons1 as was never known in the memory of ,man1 the ,vines shot vigorously2 and this ,year there were very few ,grapes of the first ,crop3 but this ,summer was so good and favourable1 by its warm ,months at the beginning of the ,summer1 that the ,vines abroad shot out fresh ,crops1 or second ,crops or ,grapes1 which made up for the other deficiency4 ,i expect the next ,year from hence1 that the ,vines will produce a full ,crop of ,grapes abroad1 because this ,year has settled the ,juices1 and digested them2 but what ,season there may be for ripening1 is still uncertain1 especially when we have the two last ,years in view4 ,but in our ,gardens1 ,i fear1 we shall have worse success2 for what this ,year has done1 will give the ,gardeners generally a hard piece of work2 for1 as ,i imagine1 there was little care taken in the beginning of the ,year to lay up the ,vines1 especially because there was but a small1 or no appearance of ,grapes then2 and the neglect of that ,season in managing of ,vines1 will be the occasion of losing the ,crop the next ,year4 ,what ,i say here about the management of ,vines in the early part of the ,year1 ,i have already treated of in my other ,works4 ,i shall now proceed to give some ,particulars relating to the making of ,wines of ,grapes1 which ,i believe may help those who make ,wines in our ,english ,vineyards1 and make them stronger and richer than they hare usually been4 ,considering the uncertainty of ,seasons1 and that every sort of ,grape will not always ripen without ,art1 it will be necessary to contrive how that ,defect may be amended4 ,the ,richness of ,wine depends upon the ,ripeness of the ,grapes2 and therefore when ,grapes have not had the advantage of a favourable ,season to ripen1 the ,liquor press'd from the ,grapes1 may be amended by boiling2 for this extraordinary ,heat will correct the ,juice1 by evaporating the two great quantity of watery parts4 ,this ,method1 however ripe the ,grapes were among the ancient ,greeks and ,romans1 was frequently1 if not always practised2 and is practised in those more ,southern ,climes1 why is it not as reasonable in ours8 ,but that this is not now practised any where in ,europe1 is no reason why ,wines may not be the better for it4 ,i suppose the only reason why it is not now practised1 is1 because it would be an ,expence and ,trouble1 more than the ,masters of ,vineyards have usually been at2 and so long as they can sell their ,wines at a constant ,price1 they do not care to go out of the way2 but in a bad ,season there is no doubt but even the ,wines in ,france might be meliorated by boiling3 ,as in the ,instance of the ,frontiniack ,grapes1 that are sour and unripe1 and without ,flavour1 yet1 by boiling or baking1 they will gain the high ,flavour that is found in them when they are well-ripen'd1 by the ,sun2 but in baking or boiling unripe ,grapes in the ,skins1 one must expect that the sourness of the ,skins will communicate a sourness to the juices enclosed2 but the ,juices being press'd and boil'd1 will ripen and become pleasant4 ,in my ,new ,improvements of ,planting and ,gardening1 ,i have given large ,directions for making of ,wine of ,grapes1 and in this1 have also given variety of ,receipts for making of ,wines of ,fruits of our own growth2 from whence we may learn the ,use of boiling ,juices of ,fruits1 and what will require fermenting by ,yeast1 and what do not4 ,you will find that such ,wines as are boiled with ,sugar1 are to be fermented with ,yeast2 and such as have ,raisins for their foundation1 will ferment in some measure of themselves4 ,and especially observe1 that while any ,liquor is fermenting1 the ,vessel it is enclosed in must be kept open till it has quite done working2 for if we should stop it up before that ,action is over1 it will certainly burst the ,vessel2 or if it has room enough1 will turn sour1 and be always thick and troubled4 ,again1 all ,wines1 and other ,liquors1 must be stopt close as soon as they have done working1 or else the ,liquors will grow flat and dead4 ,some ,wines will ferment six ,weeks or two ,months after they are in the ,vessel1 as one may know by the hissing noise which they make2 but when that is done1 then the ferment is over1 and they should be closed up4 ,but some ,wines will ferment much longer than two ,months1 and then it is a sign that they stand too hot2 then they must be put in a cooler place1 or the outside of the ,vessel frequently cool'd or refresh'd with ,water1 which will stop the ferment4 ,again1 some will not ferment as they ought to do1 and then they must be set in warmer places1 which will raise the ferment4 ,in very bad ,years we may help our ,wines with a small quantity of ,sugar1 perhaps a ,pound to a ,gallon of ,juice1 to boil together2 but whether we add ,sugar or no1 we must be sure to take the ,scum off the ,wines as it rises when they are boiling4 ,in the colder ,climates1 we ought not to press the ,grapes so close as they do in the hot ,countries1 because in the colder parts of the ,world1 and in places the most remote from the ,sun1 the ,skins of the ,grapes are much thicker1 and carry a ,sourness in them which should not be too much press'd to mix with the richer part of the ,grape2 but in the hotter ,climes1 the ,skins of the ,grapes are thin1 and the ,sourness rectify'd by the ,sun1 and will bear pressing without injuring the finer ,juices4 ,there is one thing which ,i shall mention with regard to the ,endeavours that have been used to make ,wine in the ,island of ,st4 ,helena2 a ,place so situate1 that it lies as a resting-place between these ,northern ,parts1 and the ,east-,indies1 and so remote from other places1 that could there be good ,wine made there1 it would be of great help and assistance to the ,ships that sail that way3 ,but ,i am informed by a curious ,gentleman1 who has had many good ,accounts of that ,place1 that the ,vines which have been planted there1 are of such sorts1 as bring the ,grapes ripe and rotten on one side of the ,bunch1 and green on the other at the same time1 which surely can never make good ,wine4 ,but upon enquiry1 they are only such sorts of ,grapes as grow in close ,clusters1 and therefore the side next the ,sun must be ripe much sooner than the other2 for the ,climate there is so violent hot1 that there are no ,walls used behind them to reflect the ,heat to ripen the ,backs of the ,bunches4 ,therefore1 ,i suppose that the best way to have good ,wine made in those ,parts1 is to furnish that ,place with ,vines which may bring their ,grapes in open or loose ,bunches1 such as the ,raisin-grape1 and some others1 which do not cluster2 for then the ,sun would have an equal effect upon all the ,grapes1 and good ,wine might be made of them3 ,but the worthy ,gentleman who told me of this1 has1 ,i hear1 sent to ,st4 ,helena a ,collection of such ,grapes as will answer the desired end4 ,this is likewise the ,month when ,saffron appears above ground2 sometimes sooner1 sometimes later1 according as the ,season is earlier or later4 ,this ,year1 #agbf1 ,i was in the ,saffron ,country1 and in the beginning of ,august the ,saffron-heads or ,roots had shut up so long in the flowering part1 that the ,planters were forced to put them into the ,ground3 ,i mean1 such as were design'd for new ,plantations1 which is sooner by near a ,month than they used to sprout1 though they lay dry in ,heaps1 the ,weather had so great an effect upon them4 ,about ,littlebury1 ,chesterford1 ,linton1 and some other ,places thereabouts1 is certainly now the greatest ,quantity of ,saffron of any part of the ,kingdom2 the famous ,place noted formerly for it1 call'd ,saffron ,walden1 being at this time without it4 ,however1 the ,people of the ,places which ,i have named1 do not forbear bringing it to ,walden ,market1 or driving ,bargains there for large ,quantities of it1 tho' the ,market at ,linton is look'd upon to be much the best4 ,what ,i have said in my ,country ,gentleman and ,farmer's ,monthly ,director1 gives ample ,inductions for the ,management of ,saffron1 but ,i may here add a word or two more concerning it2 which is1 that considering how many ,accidents the ,saffron is subject to1 that is dry'd upon the common ,kilns1 by the scorching of it by too hot a ,fire1 and the ,unskilfulness of the ,dryers2 ,i do not wonder that there is so much ,saffron spoiled4 ,where there are unskilful ,hands employ'd in the drying part1 one ought to provide such ,kilns for them as are large enough to distribute the ,heat moderately1 and as constant as possible2 which may partly be help'd by providing such a ,fire as may be constant1 and not give more ,heat at one time than another2 for there is a great deal of ,judgment in that4 ,i find1 that by the common way1 some ,saffron is scorch'd1 and some unequally dry'd1 for which reason ,i have contriv'd such a ,kiln as must necessarily answer the end which is proposed in the drying of ,saffron2 that is1 to put it into a state of keeping with its ,virtue in it1 and to put it out of the danger of being scorch'd in the drying4 ,this ,i shall publish in my ,natural ,history of ,cambridgeshire and ,essex1 which will soon appear in the ,world4 ,as for the way which is now commonly practised in the drying of ,saffron1 it is1 when you have provided a ,kiln1 such as ,i have described in my ,farmer's ,monthly ,director1 with a ,cloth made of ,horse-hair on the top1 strain the ,hair-cloth tight1 and lay on two ,sheets of ,saffron-paper1 that is1 a sort of ,paper made on purpose for that ,use1 which is very large2 and prepare a little ,vessel with some ,small beer1 and as many ,chives of ,saffron as will make it of a deep ,colour to stand by you2 sprinkle over the ,paper with a ,brush or ,feather dipt in this ,liquor1 and spread your ,saffron upon it1 either in a square or a round ,figure1 about three ,inches thick1 and cover the ,saffron with two ,sheets more of the same kind of ,paper1 and lay a woollen ,cloth upon them1 and over that a ,board1 which will cover the top of the ,kiln3 view this now and then1 till you see that the ,steam of the ,saffron comes through the upper ,papers4 ,then take off the ,board and ,woollen-cloth1 and taking the ,papers on each side with your ,hands1 turn the ,saffron in the ,papers1 so that the under-side be uppermost2 taking off presently after the ,papers which were first the undermost1 and then smooth down the side of the ,saffron that was first next the ,fire with a ,knife1 so that it lie all equal4 ,then cover it as it was at first1 and after a little time turn the ,saffron as you did before1 and spread then the upper-side even with a ,knife1 as you did at first2 then sprinkle your ,saffron with the ,brush dipt in the prepared ,liquor upon the dry part's of the ,cake1 and cover it as before2 let it lie then a little1 and turn it as occasion requires1 which may be sooner or later1 as the ,fire in the ,kiln is quick or slow1 minding every time1 as you turn it1 to sprinkle the dry parts with the ,liquor2 the more it shrinks1 the oftner you must turn your ,cake of ,saffron1 minding still to sprinkle the dry parts2 and when it has shrunk about three fourths of the first thickness1 lay a ,stone or ,weight upon the ,board at the top of the ,kiln1 of about seven or eight ,pound weight1 the ,board already being about ten or a dozen ,pounds2 when it is dry enough1 take it off the ,kiln1 and the ,paper it was dried in will be of good use2 remember to keep your ,fire gentle and clear4 ,we may note1 that a ,gatherer of ,saffron has this ,year about ten ,pence per ,drain1 and that about six ,pounds1 or six ,pounds and a half of raw ,saffron will dry to a ,pound2 but generally they allow only six ,pounds of wet ,saffron to a ,pound of dry ,saffron3 but that depends upon the ,dryers1 who sometimes out of a ,willingness to get ,money1 do not dry it so much as they ought to do4 ,it is a ,rule among the ,saffron-,planters in ,cambridgeshire1 that sixteen ,quarters of ,saffron-,roots1 or ,heads1 will plant an ,acre2 and that a full ,acre this ,year produces about seventeen or eighteen ,pounds of dry ,saffron1 tho' the common rate is about sixteen ,pounds4 ,about this time you have many green ,melons upon the ,vines which will not ripen2 and besides1 if they would1 that ,fruit would now be too cold for the ,stomach3 therefore it is advisable to pickle them1 to make them imitate ,mango's1 which some prefer before ,mango ,cucumbers4 ,the following is the ,receipt to pickle them4 ,to pickle green ,melons1 in imitation of ,mango4 ,the ,mango is a ,fruit brought to us from the ,east ,indies1 about the ,shape and ,bigness of a small ,melon2 it has a large ,stone in it1 and comes to us in a ,pickle1 which is strong tasted of ,garlick1 but approved by most ,people4 ,when we gather ,melons for this use1 we must wash them and cut them1 as directed for the ,mango ,cucumbers1 then lay them in ,salt and ,water1 shifting the ,salt and ,water every four and twenty ,hours1 for nine ,days successively2 after which1 take them out and wipe them dry1 and put into the inside of each1 which has been already scraped1 the same ,ingredients directed for your ,mango ,cucumbers1 and tie them up3 then boil your ,pickle of ,vinegar1 ,bay-,salt1 and ,spices1 with these ,mangoes in it2 scumming it as it rises1 and with it a piece of ,allum as directed in the ,receipt for ,mango ,cucumbers1 and afterwards follow that ,receipt till your ,melons are fit to use4 ,now we have ,wild-,ducks fit for the ,table1 and it is to be noted1 that these should not be larded as ,land-,fowls1 in the roasting of them4 ,it must be observed1 that they be sent to ,table with the ,gravey in them2 but before they are laid down to the ,fire1 it is practis'd in many places1 to chop ,onions1 the ,leaves of red ,sage1 and mix these with ,pepper and ,salt1 to be put in the ,belly of the ,ducks2 and when they are brought to ,table1 pour a ,glass of ,claret warm'd through the ,body of the ,ducks1 which with some ,gravey1 that must be sent in the ,dish1 under the ,ducks1 will make a proper ,sauce for them4 ,another agreeable way of eating ,ducks1 is roasting them1 and eating them with boil'd ,onions2 they are sometimes used in ,soups1 and baked1 and they likewise eat very well when they are half roasted1 and then cut to pieces and stew'd with their own ,gravey and ,claret4 ,now ,stubble ,geese will be in season1 after they have been taken up and fed for a ,fortnight or thereabouts1 in a close place1 with ,barley and ,water2 but during their ,confinement1 they must never want ,victuals4 ,note1 the ,barley must have no more ,water with it than will just cover it1 and they must never have their ,corn dry4 ,if during the time of their feeding1 you happen to let them out to ramble for a few hours1 they will lose more good ,flesh in that time1 than they can regain in three ,days2 therefore when you have once put them up1 keep them up till they are fit to kill3 but if you would have them very fat1 put them in a ,coop for a ,week or ten ,days before you kill them1 and feed them with ,barley-,meal and ,water1 made almost as thick as ,paste2 and always let there be several of them together1 for a single one will pine1 and lose ,flesh1 instead of increasing it by ,eating4 ,as to the dressing of this ,fowl while it is young1 in the ,spring1 under the ,character of a ,green-,goose1 it is fatted in a ,coop with ,barley-,meal and ,water1 and being kill'd and scalded when 'tis fat1 'tis roasted and eaten with green ,sauce1 or scalded ,goosberries3 but being full grown as at this time of the ,year1 is roasted1 being first salted and pepper'd within side1 and salted without side4 ,some put an ,onion1 and some ,sage-,leaves into the ,body of the ,goose1 when it is laid down to the ,fire1 and when it is brought to ,table1 it is serv'd with ,apples stew'd and mash'd in a ,plate by the ,side2 but for the ,sauce in the ,dish1 there need be none but some ,claret heated1 and pour'd thro' the ,body of the ,goose1 to mix with its own ,gravey4 ,some also salt ,geese1 and boil them with ,greens1 as with other salt ,meat2 a ,goose may also be bak'd in a ,pye to be eaten cold4 ,a ,goose is to be kill'd1 by pulling first the ,feathers at the back of the ,head1 and cutting pretty deep with a sharp ,penknife1 between the back of the ,head and the ,neck1 taking care that it does not struggle1 so as to make the ,feathers bloody1 for that will spoil them3 and 'tis to be noted1 the ,feathers of a full grown ,goose are worth four ,pence to be sold in the ,country2 this ,i had from a ,gentlewoman in ,surrey4 ,in ,holland they slit ,geese down the ,back1 and salt them with ,salt-,petre1 and other ,salt1 and then dry them like ,bacon2 they eat very well1 if they are boiled tender4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,october4 ,this ,month is a noted ,month for brewing of ,malt ,liquors especially4 ,brown1 or high-dried ,malt is to be used1 as ,i have mentioned at large in the ,month of ,march1 under the ,article of ,brewing2 to which ,i refer my ,reader1 to be fully satisfied of such ,particulars relating to it1 as seem to be the least consider'd1 altho' they are the most contributing to the ,perfection of ,malt ,liquors4 ,at this ,season1 ,cyders1 ,mussels1 ,cockles1 and such kind of ,shell-,fish are good and in ,season2 as for the ,oyster1 it is not only to be eaten raw1 but makes an agreeable ,dish stew'd1 or in ,scallop-,shells2 and besides1 being useful in many ,sauces1 are extremely good when they are well pickled4 ,altho' the ,oyster may seem foreign to a ,farm1 or some part of the ,country1 yet considering that we live in a part of the ,world surounded with a ,sea that produces the best ,oysters1 and that they are a sort of ,shell-,fish which we can keep a long time1 and feed them1 ,i think it necessary to take notice of them4 ,about ,colchester the ,oyster-,pits are only small ,holes about twelve foot square1 by the side of the ,river1 where the salt ,water comes up1 and has a passage into them at the height of the ,tides2 in these places the ,oysters are laid1 and there grow fat1 and become green1 by a sort of ,weed which is called ,crow-,silk3 and this may be done any where1 if there is a ,river with salt ,water1 as well as by ,colchester1 and be kept two or three ,months2 so that ,i wonder 'tis not practised in other places4 ,but if we have not this conveniency1 yet if we lay them in ,salt and ,water after the ,shells are well wash'd1 just when they come from the ,sea1 they will keep a ,fortnight in pretty good order1 if the ,weather be cool1 and they can have the open ,air2 but then the ,salt and ,water should be changed every four and twenty hours4 ,the following ,receipts are very good for preparing them for the ,table4 ,to stew ,oysters4 ,from ,exeter4 ,take large ,oysters1 open them1 and save their ,liquor2 then when the ,liquor is settled1 pour off the ,clear1 and put it in a ,stew-,pan1 with some ,blades of ,mace1 a little grated ,nutmeg1 and some whole ,pepper1 to boil gently1 till it is strong enough of the ,spices3 then take out the ,spices1 and put in the ,oysters to stew gently1 that they be not hard2 and when they are near enough1 add a piece of ,butter1 and as much grated ,bread as will thicken the ,liquor of the ,oysters2 and just before you take them from the ,fire1 stir in a ,glass of ,white-wine4 ,roasted ,oysters in ,scallop ,shells4 ,from ,exeter4 ,provide some large scallop ,shells1 such as are the deepest and hollowest you can get1 which ,shells are sold at the ,fishmongers at ,london2 then open such a ,number of ,oysters as will near fill the ,shells you design1 and save the ,liquor to settle2 then pour a moderate quantity of the ,liquor into each ,shell1 and put a ,blade of ,mace1 and some whole ,pepper with it2 after which1 put into your ,shells a small piece of ,butter1 and cover the whole with grated ,bread3 then let these on a ,grid-,iron over the ,fire1 and when they are enough1 give the grated ,bread at the tops of the ,shells a browning with a red-hot ,iron1 and serve them4 ,the same ,person who sent the foregoing ,receipts1 concerning ,oysters1 advises another way of roasting ,oysters1 which ,i think is a very good one1 and not much known4 ,it is1 to take large ,oysters1 open them1 and hang them by the finny part on a small ,spit1 after having first dipt them in the ,yolk of an ,egg1 and roll'd them in ,crumbs of ,bread2 turn them three or four times before the ,fire1 and baste them gently with ,butter1 till the ,crumbs of ,bread are crisp upon them1 and serve them hot4 ,as for their use in ,sauces1 they are proper with ,fish1 and are sometimes used with ,fowls2 their own ,liquor is always put in such ,sauces where they are used4 ,for pickling of ,oysters1 the following is an excellent ,receipt4 ,to pickle ,oysters4 ,open a quantity of large ,oysters1 saving their ,liquor1 and letting it settle2 then pour the ,liquor clear off into a ,stew-pan1 and wash the ,oysters in ,water and ,salt3 after which1 boil them gently in their own ,liquor1 so that they are not too hard4 ,when they are enough1 take them out1 and add to the ,liquor some ,mace1 a few ,cloves1 some whole ,pepper1 a little ,ginger1 and a ,bay-,leaf or two1 and let the ,liquor boil1 putting to it about a fourth part of ,white-wine ,vinegar1 letting it continue to boil a little more2 then take it off1 and let it stand to be quite cold4 ,when the ,oysters are cold1 put them into ,jars or ,gally-pots1 and pour the ,liquor with the ,spice cold upon them2 then tie them down with ,leather4 ,the ,mussel and ,cockle may be pickled after the same manner1 only allowing this difference2 i4e4 that ,cockles and ,mussels are taken out of their ,shells by setting them over the ,fire1 and opening them by the ,heat2 but before-hand the ,shells must be wash'd very clean1 and then must be put in the ,sauce-pan without ,water1 they of themselves will soon produce ,liquor enough3 then as the ,shells open1 take out the ,fish1 and wash every one well in ,salt and ,water2 but as for the ,mussels1 they must every one be carefully look'd into1 and discharg'd from that part which is call'd the ,beard1 and also particular care must be taken to examine whether there are any ,crabs in them1 for they are very poisonous1 and as they lie in the ,mouth of the ,mussel1 may easily be discover'd2 they are commonly as large as a ,pea1 and of the shape of a ,sea-,crab1 but are properly ,sea-,spiders3 the ,mussels however where you find them1 are not unwholesome1 and it is only the eating of this little ,animal1 which has been the occasion of ,people's swelling after they had eaten ,mussels1 but the goodness of the ,fish is well enough worth the ,care of looking after that4 ,when your ,mussels or ,cockles are all clean pick'd and wash'd1 lay them to cool2 and when their ,liquor is well fettled1 pour off the ,clear1 and boil it up with the same sort of ,spices mentioned above for the pickled ,oysters1 with the same proportion of ,vinegar2 and letting it stand till it is quite cold1 put your ,fish into proper ,pots1 or little ,barrels1 and pour the ,liquor upon them till they are cover'd with it1 and stop them up close3 they will keep good two or three ,months1 if the ,liquor is now and then boiled up1 but it must be always cold before it be put upon the ,fish4 ,in the ,management of ,cockles for pickling1 or for eating any other way1 let the ,shells be very well wash'd1 and then lay the ,cockles in a ,pan of ,salt and ,water for two or three days1 to scour themselves from the ,sand that is in them at their first taking2 but observe to shift the ,salt and ,water every day4 ,the largest ,cockles that ,i have observ'd on the ,english ,coasts are those found about ,torbay1 which are sometimes brought to ,exeter ,market2 the ,fish is as large as a good ,oyster1 and the ,shells of some are above two ,inches and a half ,diameter4 ,mussels and ,cockles may likewise be stew'd and grill'd in ,scallop ,shells1 as directed for ,oysters4 ,the ,mussels after they are well pick'd are flower'd and fryed in some places1 and eaten with ,butter and ,mustard1 and the ,french make rich ,soups of them4 ,as this is a ,season when we have plenty of ,quinces1 ,i shall insert the following ,receipt for making ,wine of them1 which is very pleasant4 ,to make ,quince ,wine4 ,from ,mrs4 ,e4 ,b4 ,gather your ,quinces when they are dry1 and wipe them very clean with a coarse ,cloth1 then grate them with a coarse ,grater or a ,rasp1 as near the ,core as you can2 but grate in none of the ,core1 nor the hard part about it3 then strain your grated ,quinces into an earthen ,pot1 and to each ,gallon of ,liquor put two ,pounds of fine ,loaf-,sugar1 and stir it till your ,sugar is dissolved2 then cover it close1 and let it stand twenty four hours1 by which time it will be fit enough to bottle1 taking care in the bottling of it that none of the ,settlement go into the ,bottles4 ,this will keep good about a ,year2 observe that your ,quinces must be very ripe when you gather them for this use4 ,rabbits still continue in ,season this ,month1 and besides the common way of dressing them1 they may be larded1 and drest in the following manner2 which ,i had from a ,gentleman in ,suffolk4 ,make a ,farce for them1 like that mentioned for the ,belly of a ,hare in the preceding ,month1 and order its ,management and ,sauce as for a ,hare4 ,a young ,rabbit1 or ,hare1 is known by the tenderness of the ,jaw-,bones1 which will easily break by pressing with the ,finger and ,thumb4 ,woodcocks are now in ,season1 and it is to be advertised of them1 that they are to be only pull'd of their ,feathers1 and not drawn like other ,fowls1 but the ,guts left in them2 when they are roasted1 they must be serv'd upon ,toasts of ,bread1 upon which the ,guts are spread and eaten1 when they are brought to ,table4 ,the inward of this ,bird eats like ,marrow2 this is generally eaten with ,juice of ,orange1 a little ,salt and ,pepper1 without other ,sauce4 ,the ,legs of this ,bird are esteem'd the most1 and are therefore presented to the greatest ,strangers at ,table2 but the ,wings and ,breast of a ,partridge are the principal parts of that ,fowl1 for the ,legs are full of ,strings1 like the ,legs of ,turkeys and ,pheasants4 ,the ,snipe is of the same nature with the ,woodcock1 and is ordered in every respect like it4 ,these may be larded with ,bacon upon the ,breast1 or else strew'd with ,salt and ,crumbs of ,bread1 while they are roasting4 ,besides the ,sauce used for ,woodcocks and ,snipes1 the aforesaid ,suffolk ,gentleman has the following which is ,gravey with a little minced ,anchovy1 a ,rocambole1 some ,lemon-,juice1 and a little ,white-wine boiled together2 and when it is strain'd1 pour it in a ,saucer1 and serve it with the ,fowls4 ,these ,birds are in plenty among the woody parts of ,england1 from ,september till the end of ,march1 and then they all leave us at one time1 except only such as have been lamed by the ,sportsmen1 and disabled for ,flight2 and then they will breed in ,england1 as there are ,instances enough4 ,about ,tunbridge1 it is frequent to find them in ,summer2 and ,i have known the same in ,leicestershire4 ,i think if one could take ,woodcocks here in ,hay-,nets1 as they do in ,france1 and pinion them or disable a ,wing1 and then turn them loose again1 we might raise a ,breed of them that would stay with us2 but ,i have experienced that they will not feed if they are confined in ,cages or ,aviaries1 for they must have liberty to run in search of their ,food1 which they find for the most part in moist places1 near ,springs2 for ,i have often taken both the ,woodcock and the ,snipe with such ,snares as are made for ,larks1 by laying them in the ,night on the ,bank of ,rivulets1 or watery ,trenches near ,woods4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,november4 ,pheasants are still in season1 and are now chiefly roasted1 for they are not so frequently boiled1 till about ,april1 and then only the ,hens when they are full of ,eggs2 but that1 ,i think1 is too destroying a way4 ,the boiled ,pheasants are generally dressed with ,oyster-,sauce1 or ,egg-,sauce1 but the roasted are either larded on the ,breast with fine ,bacon ,fat1 or else roasted and strew'd with ,crumbs of ,bread3 these1 says the ,suffolk ,gentleman1 who sent me the foregoing ,method of ordering the ,woodcock and ,snipe1 should be served with the same ,sauces that are used for ,partridges4 ,the ,sauces in his ,directions are within a trifle the same as those ,i have already set down in ,september for ,partridges or ,quails1 so that ,i shall not repeat them here4 ,the ,truffle1 which ,i have treated of at large as to its manner of ,growth and ,season of ,maturity1 in my ,gentleman and ,farmer's ,monthly ,director1 affords such ,variety of agreeable ,dishes1 that ,i have taken care to send to a curious ,gentleman abroad for the ,receipt how to dress it3 ,they are very plenty in our ,woods in ,england1 as ,i understand by several who have found them this ,summer by my ,directions1 and ,i believe will be much more so1 since several curious ,gentlemen have followed my ,advice in propagating them4 ,it is now1 as well as in the two preceding ,months1 that we may find them of a fine ,flavour2 but they being something more in perfection in this ,month than in the others1 ,i think it the properest to give the ,methods of ordering them for the ,table in this place3 ,the first manner is to broil them4 ,to broil ,truffles4 ,the ,truffle being brought in fresh1 wash it well1 and cut off the rough ,coat on the outside3 some of these will be as large as one's ,fist1 and they are the best for this purpose2 but let them be of any size1 as soon as the ,coat is off1 cut them through a little more than half-way1 and put ,pepper and ,salt into the opening1 and close it again2 then wrap up each ,truffle in wet ,paper close1 and broil them over a gentle ,fire of ,wood-,embers till you judge they are enough1 which will be as soon as they are very hot quite through2 let them be turn'd as occasion requires1 that they may be all equally done1 and then serve them to the ,table in a folded ,napkin4 ,this is a very good way of eating them1 but the other ,i have more frequently eaten4 ,to ,stew ,truffles in ,wine4 ,the ,truffles must be peel'd from the rough ,coat on the outside1 and well-wash'd2 then cut your ,truffles into ,slices1 and stew them in ,white wine1 or ,claret1 which you please1 with ,salt1 ,pepper1 and a ,bay-leaf2 or in the lieu of that1 some ,jamaica ,pepper1 and serve them4 ,white-wine for this use is generally preferred4 ,to ,stew ,truffles after another manner4 ,gather ,truffles1 peel them and wash them1 and then cut them in ,slices1 after which fry them a little in a ,stew-pan1 with either ,butter or ,hog's-,lard1 and a little ,wheat-,flower2 then take them out and drain them1 and put them again in a ,stew-pan with ,gravey1 a bunch of ,sweet-,herbs1 some ,salt1 ,pepper1 and ,nutmeg grated2 and when they have stewed a little in this1 strain the ,liquor1 and dish them for the ,table1 garnished with ,slices of ,lemmon4 ,besides this way1 they may be used in the same manner as ,fowls are stewed or fricasseed1 with brown or white ,sauces1 after they have been soften'd a little by boiling4 ,while ,i am speaking of the ,truffle1 ,i may well enough mention the ,receipts for the management of the ,morille4 ,altho' the ,morille grows in ,april1 which is the only time when it may be gather'd fresh1 yet one may dress the dry'd ones now1 by first softening them in warm ,water and ,salt for three or four ,minutes2 but1 as observ'd before1 they are best fresh gather'd4 ,and again1 ,i chuse to put the ,receipts for their ,management in this place1 because they are so near a-kin to the ,truffle4 ,in the first place1 ,i shall speak of drying them1 which ,i have done in ,england1 after the following manner3 ,gather1 and wash them1 and when they are well drain'd1 then lay them in a ,dish1 and dry them by degrees in a gentle ,oven2 and when they are throughly dry1 keep them in a dry place1 and in a cover'd earthen glazed ,pot2 but when they are fresh1 order them according to the following ,receipts4 ,and ,i am the more ready to give these to the ,publick1 because all such who know the nicest way of eating1 may nor be disappointed in their ,travels thro' ,england1 and denied at the ,inns such things as perhaps are as agreeable in that way1 as any in the ,country4 ,particularly ,i remember at ,newberry1 or ,spinhamland1 in the publick ,road to ,bath1 ,i was at the most publick and noted ,inn in that ,road1 and had got some very good ,mushrooms1 and the ,people there were of opinion that they were poisonous1 or else did not know how to dress them1 and by no means they would send them to the ,table4 ,i say1 if such mistakes can be made in a place where so many ,people of fashion travel continually1 it is not likely that ,morilles or ,truffles will be received with more favour than my ,mushrooms2 and ,i believe that some of the greatest ,niceties of our ,country may ever remain unknown1 without a ,work of this nature1 which ,i have pick'd up inch by inch1 viz4 in my ,travels4 ,and besides1 considering the strange disagreeable ,compositions which one meets with in some of our ,travels1 as ,sugar with a pickled ,trout1 and many more as ridiculous2 ,i think this little ,piece of ,work not unworthy my ,time4 ,again1 there are many ,families in ,england which have plenty about them1 and do not know what to do with it2 and therefore ,i think this the more necessary4 ,but to come to my point1 the ,morille may be dress'd when it is either fresh or blanch'd in warm ,water1 according to the following ,receipts1 which ,i had from ,france4 ,to make a ,ragout of ,morilles4 ,the ,morilles being fresh gather'd1 take off the ,roots1 and wash them in many ,waters1 for the ,wrinkles in their ,tops harbour a great deal of ,dirt and ,sand2 then slit them lengthways1 and fry them a little in a ,stew-pan1 with ,butter or ,hogs-,lard1 letting either be very hot when you put in the ,morilles2 then let them drain1 and put them in a fresh ,stew-pan with ,gravey1 in which shred some ,parsley and ,cherville very small1 with a young ,onion1 some ,salt1 and a little ,nutmeg3 let these stew gently1 and send them to the ,table garnish'd with slices of ,lemmon1 or they may be sent to the ,table in ,cream1 as we have already mentioned concerning other things in the same manner4 ,to fry the ,morilles4 ,prepare your ,morilles as directed in the former ,receipt1 and boil them in a little ,gravey gently2 when they begin to be tender1 take them out of the ,liquor1 and flower them very well1 then fry them in ,hog's-,lard3 when they are thus prepared1 make a ,sauce for them of the ,liquor or ,gravey the ,morilles were stew'd in1 season'd with ,salt1 ,nutmeg and a little ,juice of ,lemmon4 ,the following ,directions ,i had from a ,gentleman in ,suffolk4 ,the ,turkey is now in good ,season1 and may be either boiled or roasted2 when it is boiled1 it is most commonly served with ,oyster-,sauce1 and when it is designed for roasting1 it may be larded with fine ,fat of ,bacon on the ,breast1 or else well strew'd with ,crumbs of ,bread1 having first made a ,farce to fill the ,hollow of the ,neck1 where the ,crop lay2 this ,farce may be made of grated ,bread1 ,spice1 ,salt1 butter'd ,eggs1 and some sweet ,herbs powder'd1 the whole well mix'd and bound with the ,yolk of a raw ,egg2 or the ,liver of a ,fowl may be boiled and chop'd small and put into it4 ,the ,receipt as ,i receiv'd it directs ,beef-,suet chop'd small instead of butter'd ,eggs2 but ,mr4 ,john ,hughs1 a noted ,cook in ,london1 tells me that ,suet should be avoided in these ,farces1 because it is apt to cool too soon1 and offend the ,roof of the ,mouth1 and therefore directs butter'd ,eggs in their stead4 ,as for the ,sauce for the roasted ,turkey1 it must be made with ,gravey1 a ,bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,lemmon-peel1 a ,shallot or two1 and some whole ,pepper and ,all-spice boiled together and strained4 ,concerning the ,lark1 which is now in ,season1 the abovemention'd ,gentleman gives the following ,directions3 ,let the ,larks be pick'd only and not gutted1 truss the ,legs1 with a ,leaf of red ,sage to every ,lark between the ,joints of the ,legs2 then with a ,feather1 dip'd in the ,yolk of an ,egg beaten1 wash the ,body of every ,lark1 and cover it well with ,crumbs of ,bread2 after which1 cut some thin ,slices of fat ,bacon1 about three ,inches long1 and an ,inch broad1 and lay the ,larks in a row1 side to side1 with a piece of this ,bacon between every two ,larks2 then have small ,spits about ten ,inches long1 and pass the ,spits thro' the ,sides of the ,larks and the ,bacon1 so that you have half a dozen ,larks upon each ,spit1 observing to have a piece of ,bacon on both the outsides of the half dozen ,larks2 baste these well while they are roasting1 and for the ,sauce for them1 fry some grated ,bread crisp in ,butter1 and set them to drain before the ,fire1 that they may harden2 serve these under the ,larks when you send them to ,table1 and garnish with ,slices of ,lemmon4 ,some have their ,lark-,spits made of ,silver1 and serve their ,larks upon the ,spits to the ,table1 by which means they keep hot the longer3 you may eat them with ,juice of ,lemmon with the fry'd ,crumbs1 but some like such ,gravey-,sauce with them as is directed for the roasted ,turkey4 ,tho' the ,guts are left in the ,larks1 yet they are not to be eaten4 ,in my ,travels ,i observed a kind of ,soup1 which was very frequently used abroad1 and quickly ready1 that was very taking to most ,travellers who delighted in savoury ,dishes1 which the ,people abroad call ,soup a l',yvrogne4 ,it is made as follows4 ,take half a score ,onions1 peel them1 and cut them in small ,pieces into a ,stewpan1 and fry them brown with ,butter1 and a little ,pepper and ,salt2 and when they are enough1 pour such a quantity of ,water upon them as you think proper to make a ,soup of them2 then let these boil together1 and thicken it with as many ,eggs as are neccessary1 keeping it stirring to prevent the ,eggs from ,curdling4 ,some add to this a large ,glass of ,white-wine1 which ,i think makes it better tasted than 'tis without it3 this is served with a ,french ,role in the middle4 ,at the same time ,i met with the following ,receipt for ,beef ,a-la-mode1 which is as good as any ,i have eaten4 ,to make ,beef ,a-la-mode4 ,take a fleshy piece of ,beef1 without ,fat1 and beat it well with a ,rolling pin1 then lard it with pretty large pieces of ,bacon-,fat1 and if you please put over the ,fire a little to fry till the outside is brown1 and then put it to stew in a deep ,stew-pan1 or glaz'd ,earthen-,vessel1 with ,salt1 ,pepper1 ,bay-,leaves or ,jamaica ,pepper1 some ,lemmon-,peel1 half a dozen large ,mushrooms1 two ,gloves of ,garlick1 or four or five ,cloves of ,shallot1 half a ,pint of ,wine1 and a ,pint of ,water2 cover it close1 and let it stew gently till it is tender3 when it is enough1 fry some ,flower in ,hogs-,lard1 and add to it1 with some ,lemmon-,juice1 or a little ,verjuice4 ,this is very good hot1 but is for the most part eaten cold1 cut in ,slices of about half an ,inch thick4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,december4 ,now is the principal ,season for killing of ,hogs1 as well for ,pork as for ,bacon1 and likewise for ,brawn4 ,i have already in my other ,works given ,directions for making of pickled ,pork and ,bacon2 so that ,i shall say little of it in this place1 but give the ,receipts for ordering some particular parts of ,hogs4 ,the following ,receipt ,i received from ,france1 concerning the preparing of the ,jole of a wild ,boar1 and have had it try'd in ,england with the ,head of a common ,hog2 and ,i find little difference1 especially if the ,hog has been fed with ,acorns4 ,to dress a ,hog's ,head1 in imitation of the ,jole of a wild ,boar4 ,take a ,hog's ,head and burn it well all over upon a clear ,fire1 till all the ,hair is burnt to the ,skin2 then take a piece of ,brick1 and rub the ,head all over as hard as possible1 to grind off the ,stumps of the ,bristles1 and finish the whole with your ,knife1 and then clean the ,head very well2 when this is done1 you must take out all the ,bones1 opening the ,head in the under ,part1 and beginning with the under ,jaw-,bones and the ,muzzle2 then cleave the ,head1 leaving only the ,skin over the ,skull to hold it together3 take out the ,tongue and the ,brains4 ,when thus you have taken away all the ,bones1 stab the ,flesh with the ,point of your ,knife in many places on the inside1 without wounding the ,skin1 and put ,salt into every ,incision1 then join the ,head together1 and tie it well together with ,packthread1 and then wrapping it up in a ,napkin1 put it in a ,kettle1 with a large ,quantity of ,water1 a large ,bunch of all kinds of sweet ,herbs1 a little ,coriander and ,anise-,seeds1 two or three ,bay ,leaves1 some ,cloves1 and two or three ,nutmegs cut in pieces1 and some ,salt1 if you think there is any wanting2 add likewise two or three large ,onions and a ,sprig or two of ,rosemary4 ,when this has boiled half enough1 pour in a ,bottle of ,wine1 and let it boil three or four ,hours longer till 'tis tender2 for it will not be so under seven or eight ,hours boiling1 if the ,hog be large2 and if it is a ,boar's ,head1 that has been put up for ,brawn1 it will take more time to boil4 ,being boiled enough1 let it cool in the ,liquor1 and then take it out and untie it1 and lay it in a ,dish to be carry'd cold to the ,table1 either whole or in ,slices4 ,if you will1 you may salt it three or four days before you boil it4 ,to make ,sausages1 from ,lady ,m4 ,take the ,flesh of a ,leg of ,pork1 and mince it small1 and to every ,pound of the ,flesh minced1 mince about a quarter of a ,pound of the hard ,fat of the ,hog2 then beat some ,jamaica ,pepper very fine1 and mix with it some ,pepper and ,salt1 with a little ,sweet-,marjoram powder'd1 and some ,leaves of red ,sage minced very small2 mix all these very well1 and if you fill them into ,guts1 either of ,hogs or ,sheep1 beat two or three ,yolks of ,eggs and mix with them1 taking care not to fill the ,guts too full1 lest they burst when you broil or fry them3 but if you design them to be eaten without putting them in ,guts1 then put no ,eggs to them1 but beat the ,flesh and the ,fat in a ,stone ,mortar1 and work the ,spice and ,herbs well into it with your hands1 so that it be well mix'd1 and keep it in a ,mass to use at your pleasure1 breaking off ,pieces1 and rolling them in your hands1 and then flowering them well before you fry them4 ,if you use them in ,guts1 take special care that the ,guts are well clean'd1 and lie some time in a little warm ,white-wine and ,spice before you use them2 if any ,herb happens to be disagreeable in this ,mixture1 it may be left out1 or others added at pleasure4 ,the following ,receipt to make ,sausages of ,fish for ,fast-,days1 ,i had at ,bruxelles1 which ,i have experienced to be very good4 ,to make ,sausages of ,fish4 ,take the ,flesh of ,eels1 or of ,tench1 and to either of these put some of the ,flesh of fresh ,cod1 or of ,pike or ,jack1 chop these well together with ,parsley1 and a few small ,onions2 season these with a little ,salt1 ,pepper1 ,cloves in ,powder1 a little grated ,nutmeg1 and1 if you will1 a little powder'd ,ginger1 with some ,thyme1 ,sweet-,marjoram1 a little ,bay-,leaf1 all dry'd and powder'd2 and mix all these well together with a little ,butter4 ,then beat the ,bones of the ,fish in a ,mortar1 pouring in among them while they are beating1 a ,glass or two of ,claret1 which must afterwards be poured upon the above ,mixture2 then take the ,guts of a ,calf well wash'd and clear'd of the ,fat1 for in that condition ,i find there is no scruple to use them abroad3 being well discharged of the ,fat1 fill these ,skins with your ,mixture of ,fish1 c4 tying them at both ends1 and lay them for twenty four ,hours in a ,pickle of ,wine and ,salt1 and taking them out from thence1 hang them in a ,chimney where they may be well smoak'd with a ,wood-,fire1 or burning ,saw-dust for twenty-four hours1 or longer if you please1 provided you have allow'd ,salt and ,spices enough4 ,when you would use them1 boil them gently in ,white-wine1 with a ,bunch of ,sweet ,herbs2 or in ,water1 with one third part ,white-wine1 and ,sweet-,herbs4 ,these are served cold at the ,table1 and eat very well4 ,the ,boars that were put up for ,brawn1 are now fit to kill4 ,it is to be observ'd1 that what is used for ,brawn1 is the ,flitches only1 without the ,legs1 and they must have the ,bones taken out1 and then sprinkled with ,salt1 and lay'd in a ,tray1 or some other thing1 to drain off the ,blood2 when this is done1 salt it a little1 and roll it up as hard as possible1 so that the length of the ,collar of ,brawn be as much as one side of the ,boar will bear1 and to be1 when it is rolled up1 about nine or ten ,inches diameter4 ,when you have rolled up your ,collar as close as you can1 tye it with ,linnen ,tape1 as tight as possible1 and then prepare a ,cauldron with a large ,quantity of ,water to boil it3 ,in this boil your ,brawn till it is tender enough for a ,straw to pass into it1 and then let it cool2 and when it is quite cold1 put it in the following ,pickle4 ,put to every ,gallon of ,water a handful or two of ,salt1 and as much ,wheat-,bran2 boil them well together1 and then strain the ,liquor as clear as you can from the ,brawn1 and let it stand till it is quite cold1 at which time put your ,brawn in it2 but this ,pickle must be renewed every three ,weeks4 ,some put half small ,beer and half ,water2 but then the small ,beer should be brewed with pale ,malt3 but ,i think the first ,pickle is the best4 ,note1 ,the same ,boar's ,head being well cleaned1 may be boiled and pickled like the ,brawn1 and is as much esteem'd4 ,this is a good ,season to make what they call ,hung-,beef3 ,the way of doing it1 is1 to take the thin ,pieces of the ,beef1 and salting them with ,salt-,petre about two ,ounces to a ,pound of common ,salt1 and rubbing it well into the ,meat1 dry it in a ,chimney with ,wood ,smoke4 ,when this is throughly cured1 it will be red quite through1 which one may try by cutting2 for if there is any of the ,flesh green1 it is not smoked enough4 ,it is1 in my opinion1 better than any ,bacon to be boiled and eaten hot4 ,this is what ,i shall say1 concerning the use of such things as are generally found about a ,gentleman's ,country-,seat1 or about a ,farm1 which ,i think will be very useful1 tho' a little out of the common ,road2 and so ,i shall make no ,apology for publishing such ,receipts as ,i am sure are good4 ,if ,i do not use proper ,terms in some of my ,receipts in ,cookery1 ,i have at least put my ,receipts into such a ,method1 as ,i suppose will make them intelligible1 and what any one may understand3 ,but ,i must take notice before ,i conclude1 that the meaning of publishing this1 is to instruct those who may not have had opportunity of observing or collecting so much as ,i have done1 and not any way pretending to inform those who are full enough of ,knowledge already4 ,however1 ,i hope my ,readers will be contented with what ,i have here given them1 and meet with something that is ,new and ,useful4 ,,finis4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,country ,,housewife ,,and ,,lady's ,,director1 ,,in ,,the ,,management ,,of ,a ,,house1 ,,and ,,the ,,delights ,,and ,,profits ,,of ,a ,,farm4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,,including ,a great ,variety of the most curious ,receipts for ,dressing all the ,sorts of ,flesh1 ,fish1 ,fowl1 ,fruit and ,herbs1 which are the ,productions of a ,farm1 or from any ,foreign ,parts4 ,contained in ,letters1 and taken from the ,performances of the most polite ,proficients in most ,parts of ,europe4 ,now publish'd for the ,good of the ,publick1 ,by ,r4 ,,bradley1 ,professor of ,botany in the ,university of ,cambridge1 and ,f4 ,r4 ,s4 ,to which is ,added1 ,from a ,poulterer in ,st4 ,james's-,market1 the ,manner of ,trussing all ,sorts of ,poultry4 ,adorn'd with ,cuts3 ,shewing1 how every ,fowl1 ,wild or ,tame1 ought to be prepared for the ,spit2 and likewise any kind of ,game4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,to ,sir ,hans ,sloane1 ,bart4 ,,president ,,of ,,the ,,royal-,,society4 ,this ,piece of ,oeconomy1 or ,management of the ,houshold1 is most humbly presented1 by ,his ,most humble and most obedient ,servant1 ,r4 ,,bradley 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,,introduction4 ,there is nothing induces me so much1 to publish this ,second ,part of ,directions to prepare the ,things about a ,farm or ,family1 as the ,encouragement my first ,volume1 in this ,way1 has met with in the ,world2 which being now in the sixth ,edition1 has brought me many ,receipts1 from the ,curious1 which would be detrimental to the ,publick if ,i did not offer them to the ,world4 ,i must acknowledge my ,gratitude1 in this ,piece1 to several ,persons of ,distinction1 and good ,oeconomy1 who have favoured me with their ,assistance2 and1 as far as their ,leave would suffer me1 ,i have given their ,names or ,signatures4 ,most of the ,receipts ,i have been ,witness to1 at some ,meal or other with them1 or else in ,publick ,places have purchas'd2 for ,i always thought that there was more satisfaction in eating clean and well1 if one had good ,provisions in a ,place1 than to have such ,provisions good1 and spoiled in their ,management4 ,with the many ,noblemen ,i am conversant with1 and in the large ,tract of ,ground ,i have passed over1 it may not be surprizing1 that ,i have collected so great a variety of ,things in this way2 and there is no greater ,happiness ,i enjoy1 than to communicate to the ,world1 what ,i love myself3 but as the ,proverb says1 there is no disputing about ,tastes1 so that every one has still the ,liberty of choosing or rectifying any thing as their ,palate directs1 when they have a good ,foundation to go upon4 ,i think1 if these ,receipts had lain still in my ,cabinet1 they might after my death have been distributed to the ,world in a wrong ,sense2 but as ,i have particularly been present amongst many of them1 ,i have taken the meaning of them in ,writing2 or if ,i had left them behind me1 they might have been lost1 which1 ,i think1 are much too good to be bury'd in ,oblivion4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,the ,country ,lady's ,,director4 ,,part ,,ii4 ,since ,i have publish'd the ,receipts ,i gathered together1 with regard to the several ,preparations of the ,products of a ,farm1 for the ,table2 entitled1 ,the ,lady's ,monthly ,director1 c4 7now in its sixth ,edition37 ,i have received a great number of ,letters relating to many ,improvements that may be made to it1 and am desired to publish them1 in order to render my first ,volume more compleat4 ,and1 as ,i find they will be of public ,use1 ,i shall begin with one concerning the ,preservation of ,flesh1 ,fowls and ,fish from ,putrefaction1 or ,stinking2 which is too often the ,case1 in ,summer-time1 when it is rare to find any sweet ,morsels1 although they have undergone the ,discipline of ,salting4 ,as for the common ,notion1 that ,women cannot lay ,meat in ,salt1 equally with success1 at all ,times1 it is false2 it is the ,manner of doing it1 and not the state of the ,women who handle it1 that makes it right2 there must be a right way of ,management to preserve it1 and render it fit for the ,palate1 as the following ,letter informs us4 ,to ,mr4 ,bradley4 ,sir1 ,i have not only read your ,book call'd1 ,the ,lady's ,monthly ,director1 but have tasted many elegant ,dishes of ,meat1 ordered by the ,receipts in it2 but ,i think1 as you are a philosophical ,gentleman1 you should have taken a little more ,notice of the preservation of ,flesh from ,putrefaction3 ,for in many places ,i have set down to a ,dinner which has sent me out of the ,room by the very smell of it2 even1 though ,i am so much of the ,french ,taste1 that ,i can bear the ,fumette4 ,the ,husband1 in this ,case1 has blamed his ,wife2 and the ,wife has taken the opportunity of whispering to her ,husband1 that the ,maid was not in right ,sorts when she salted the ,meat3 but ,i am sure1 ,i shall set you to rights in that ,point4 ,i have taken pains in my ,family1 which consists of thirty ,persons1 to have my ,wife order the ,experiment to be made1 and ,i am satisfied from her ,arguments1 that there is nothing in the ,notion above4 ,but now to the purpose4 ,let your ,flesh-,meat be fresh1 and take all the bleeding ,arteries from it2 then sprinkle it with common ,salt1 and let it lie in the ,air for twelve ,hours2 but salt the ,places1 where the ,arteries were1 more particularly3 then wipe your ,meat dry1 and make some ,salt very hot1 over the ,fire1 then rub in the ,salt very well1 and lay the ,pieces of salted ,meat one upon another1 and it will keep for several ,months4 ,or with common ,salt1 rub the several ,pieces of ,meat briskly with it1 after the ,blood is out1 and especially in the hollow ,places lay ,salt enough4 ,so will you be sure to have your ,meat sweet1 either ,beef or ,pork4 ,to send ,venison ,sweet in hot ,weather4 ,give it a little ,salt1 and have the ,haunches parted1 taking out the ,marrow and all the ,veins1 as they are called1 that bleed2 and then wipe all of it quite dry after you have wash'd it with ,vinegar1 and then powder it with ,pepper1 and in an open ,basket send it up to ,london4 ,sometimes ,venison 7meaning a ,buck7 comes up to ,london1 not fit for the ,table2 to prevent which1 order the ,keeper1 when he has killed it1 to strew three or four ,pounds of ,pepper1 beaten fine1 upon it2 and especially upon the ,neck ,parts of the ,sides1 after he has wash'd them with ,vinegar and dried them well4 ,but if it stinks1 when you receive it1 wash it with ,vinegar1 and dry it1 then pepper it and wrap it in a dry ,cloth1 bury it in the ,ground1 three foot deep at least1 and in sixteen ,hours it will be sweet1 fit for eating2 then wash off the ,pepper with ,vinegar1 and dry it with a ,cloth1 and hang it where the cool ,air may pass1 and the blue ,flies cannot come at it4 ,query4 ,is it not strange1 that we see daily the ,limbs of ,horses hung up in ,trees1 and they do not stink1 but remain good a long while fit for ,dogs ,meat8 ,if any one will say1 that ,dogs all delight to eat ,carrion1 ,i must deny that2 but that every sort of ,dog will roll himself in ,carrion1 when he can find it1 is certain4 ,to send ,partridges a long way in hot ,weather4 ,when you have killed your ,partridges1 take out the ,crop1 and the ,artery which bleeds in the ,neck1 then fill the ,place with ,pepper2 and the ,mouths of the ,fowls should be fill'd with the same1 for these ,parts take a taint sooner than the rest2 the ,vent too1 ought to be taken care of1 and open'd1 and filled with ,pepper1 beaten grossly4 ,n4,b4 ,this ,pepper may be always wash'd away without leaving any ,season or ,flavour behind it1 and is a certain ,antidote against ,corruption4 ,so the same may be done with ,pheasants1 and you should likewise leave on their ,feathers4 ,to keep an ,hare a long ,time4 ,as soon as 'tis kill'd and discharged of its ,entrails1 take care that all the ,blood be dried away with ,cloths about the ,liver1 for there it is apt to settle1 then dust the ,liver well with ,pepper2 and fill the ,body with ,nettles1 or dry ,moss1 for these will not raise a ferment as ,hay and ,straw will do1 when they come to be wet2 then fill the ,mouth with ,pepper1 and it will keep a long time4 ,to keep ,wild-,ducks fresh4 ,draw them1 and fill the ,body with red ,sage1 after the inside is well pepper'd2 and likewise pepper the inside of the ,mouth1 leave on the ,feathers4 ,a ,goose may be serv'd the same way4 ,but if they be too long kept1 or through want of ,care1 they should receive a taint2 then1 when they are pull'd1 wash the ,inside very well1 with ,vinegar and ,water1 and dry it well with a ,cloth2 and scrape away1 if need be1 what are call'd the ,kidneys2 then strew the ,inside afresh with ,pepper1 and hang them up for an ,hour or two1 where the ,air may pass through them4 ,some in such a case will put an ,onion into the ,body1 which does very well towards restoring it to a freshness2 then wash out all1 and prepare it for the ,spit4 ,helps towards the ,preservation of ,fish4 ,if you would keep ,fish long1 kill them as soon as they are out of the ,water1 and take out their ,gills2 then fill their ,heads as much as may be1 with ,pepper1 and wipe them very dry1 and pack them in dry ,wheat-,straw4 ,t4 ,r4 ,to make ,wine of ,white ,elder-berries1 like ,cyprus ,wine from ,mrs4 ,warburton of ,cheshire4 ,to nine ,gallons of ,water1 put nine ,quarts of the ,juice of ,white ,elder berries1 which has been pressed gently from the ,berries1 with the ,hand1 and passed thro' a ,sieve1 without bruising the ,kernels of the ,berries2 add to every ,gallon of ,liquor three ,pounds of ,lisbon ,sugar1 and to the whole ,quantity put an ,ounce and a half of ,ginger1 sliced1 and three quarters of an ,ounce of ,cloves2 then boil this near an ,hour1 taking off the ,scum1 as it rises1 and pour the whole to cool1 in an open ,tub1 and work it with ,ale-,yeast1 spread upon a ,toast of white ,bread1 for three ,days1 and then tun it into a ,vessel that will just hold it2 adding about a ,pound and a half of ,raisins of the ,sun split1 to lie in the ,liquor till we draw it off1 which should not be till the ,wine is fine1 which you will find about ,january4 ,this ,wine is so like the fine rich ,wine brought from ,cyprus1 in its ,colour and ,flavour1 that it has deceiv'd the best ,judges1 ,these ,berries are ripe in ,august1 and may be had at the ,ivy-,house at ,hoxton4 ,to make ,wine of ,black ,elder-berries1 which is equal to the best ,hermitage ,claret2 from ,henry ,marsh1 ,esq4 of ,hammersmith4 ,take nine ,gallons of ,spring ,water1 and half a ,bushel of ,elder-berries1 pick'd clean from the ,stalks2 boil these till the ,berries begin to dimple1 then gently strain off the ,liquor1 and to every ,gallon of it put two ,pounds of good ,lisbon ,sugar1 and boil it an ,hour2 then let it stand to cool1 in an open ,tub1 for if it was to cool in the ,copper1 or ,brass ,kettle1 it was boil'd in1 the ,liquor would be ill-tasted4 ,when it is almost cool1 spread some ,ale-,yeast upon a ,toast of ,white ,bread1 and put it into the ,liquor1 to work three ,days in the open ,tub1 stirring the ,liquor once or twice a ,day1 and then tun it in a ,vessel of a right size1 to hold it3 ,at the same time add to every ,gallon one pound of ,raisins of the ,sun whole1 and let them lie in the ,cask till the ,wine is drawn off4 ,such a small quantity of ,wine1 as is here directed1 will be fit to bottle the ,january next after it is made1 but larger ,casks should not be drawn off till ,march or ,april4 ,a ,receipt from ,barbadoes1 to make ,rum2 which proves very good4 ,in ,barbadoes the ,rum is made of the ,scum and ,offal of the ,sugar1 of which they put one ninth part1 or eighth part1 to common ,water1 about eighteen ,gallons1 all together1 in a wooden open ,vessel or ,tub2 cover this with dry ,leaves of ,palm1 or for want of them1 with the ,leaves of ,platanus or the ,leaves of ,fern in ,england1 or the ,parts or ,leaves which ,flagg-,brooms are made of4 ,let this remain for nine ,days1 till it changes of a clean yellow ,colour1 and it will be then fit to distil2 then put it into an ,alembic1 and you will have what we call the ,low-,wines4 ,a ,day or two after distil it again1 and in the ,cap of the ,still1 hang a small muslin ,bag of sweet ,fennel-,seeds1 and the ,spirit will be of a fine ,flavour4 ,some will use ,anniseed in the ,bag1 and some use a little ,musk with the sweet ,fennel ,seeds1 or else distil the ,spirit twice1 viz41 once with the sweet ,fennel-,seeds1 and the next with a little ,musk4 ,n4,b4 ,the wooden ,vessels1 or open ,tubs1 must not be made of any ,wood that is unwholesome1 or sweet-scented2 such as ,deal1 ,firr1 or ,manchineel4 ,in ,england1 ,treacle may be used with equal ,success1 and is cheap enough to get a good livelihood2 as appears by the several ,ways mention'd above1 that have been privately experienced4 ,to make ,citron-,water1 from ,barbadoes4 ,take ,citron1 or ,lemon ,flowers1 for the word ,citron in ,french signifies ,lemon2 though we generally in ,england esteem the large ,lemons to be ,citrons1 and the middle-siz'd we call ,lemons1 and the smallest of that race is call'd the ,lime4 ,in these1 however1 there are as many varieties as we have in ,apples1 one is finer flavour'd than the other4 ,the ,oranges too are of as many different ,sorts1 the ,rind of one pleasanter than the other1 and the ,juice likewise1 and so are the ,flowers various in their ,smells1 some more odorous than others2 yet all these are used indifferently1 according to the ,kinds that happen to grow upon the several ,estates1 where the ,citron-,water is made1 and this is the ,reason why one ,sort is better than another2 and therefore1 those who have the most pleasant ,sorts1 make the best ,waters of this ,kind4 ,we must take1 either of ,citron1 ,lemon1 or ,orange-,flowers1 four ,ounces to a ,gallon of clean ,spirit1 or ,french-,brandy2 put these in the ,spirits1 with two ,pounds of white ,sugar-,candy1 beaten fine3 then take of the best ,citron-,peels1 or ,lemon-,peels1 six ,ounces1 and let them steep in the ,spirits till the ,liquor is strong enough of every ,ingredient2 and when that is done1 pour it off1 through a ,sieve4 ,and in some places they put about half a ,drachm of ,musk to six ,gallons of ,liquor2 and this has been sold for sixteen ,shillings the ,quart in ,london4 ,to make fine ,vinegar4 ,there is no doubt but the making of ,vinegar will be a considerable ,article1 seeing that few of our fine ,preparations for the ,table can be made without it4 ,a ,gentleman of great note has given me the following ,receipt for it1 viz4 ,to nine ,gallons of ,water1 put eighteen ,pounds of ,malaga ,raisins1 chopt a little1 ,stalks and all2 put this into a ,cask1 bound with ,iron ,hoops1 and place it in the warmest ,exposure you can find in the open ,air3 then take a ,florence ,flask1 divested of its ,straw1 and put the ,neck of it into the ,bung-hole1 fixing it as close as may be1 with some ,linnen-,cloth1 and a little ,pitch and ,rosin melted together4 ,by this ,means1 if the ,weather prove fair and warm1 your ,vinegar will be fit for ,use in three ,weeks time4 ,the use of the ,glass1 is1 that in the heat of the ,day it will fill itself with the ,liquor1 and when the cool of the ,evening comes on1 that ,liquor will again be return'd into the ,cask2 by which means the ,liquor will become sour much sooner than it will otherwise do4 ,as soon as it is clear1 draw it off4 ,to make ,irish ,usquebaugh2 from ,lord ,capell's ,receipt1 when he was ,lord ,lieutenant of ,ireland4 ,to every ,gallon of ,french-,brandy1 put one ,ounce of ,liquorice sliced1 one ,ounce of sweet ,fennel-,seeds1 one ,ounce of ,anniseeds1 one ,pound of ,raisins of the ,sun split and stoned1 a quarter of a ,pound of ,figs split1 two ,drachms of ,coriander-,seeds1 let these infuse about eight or nine ,days1 and pour the ,liquor clear off1 then add half an ,ounce of ,saffron1 in a ,bag1 for a ,day or two1 and when that is out1 put in a ,drachm of ,musk4 ,if when this ,composition is made1 it seems to be too high a ,cordial for the ,stomach1 put to it more ,brandy1 till you reduce it to the ,temper you like4 ,this is the same ,receipt ,king ,william had when he was in ,ireland4 ,to make ,green ,usquebaugh4 ,to every ,gallon of ,french-,brandy put one ,ounce of ,anniseeds1 and another of sweet ,fennel-,seeds1 two ,drachms of ,coriander-,seeds4 ,let these infuse nine ,days1 then take of the ,spirit of ,saffron one ,drachm1 distil'd from ,spirit of ,wine1 mix with the rest2 infuse during this time some ,liquorice sliced in ,spirits1 one ,pound of ,raisins of the ,sun1 and filter it2 put then a ,quart of pure ,white-,wine to a ,gallon of the ,liquor1 and when all is mix'd together1 take the ,juice of ,spinach boil'd1 enough to colour it2 but do not put the ,spinach ,juice into the ,liquor till it is cold4 ,to this put one ,pound of white ,sugar candied1 finely powder'd1 to a ,gallon of ,liquor4 ,to make a ,cabbage-,pudding2 from a ,gentlewoman in ,suffolk1 as it was written by herself4 ,sir1 ,you will excuse me1 if ,i send you a ,receipt for a ,pudding1 which is accounted so agreeable by my ,acquaintance1 that they think it worth a place in your ,book1 call'd1 ,the ,lady's ,monthly ,director1 in the ,management of the several ,products of a ,farm4 ,it may as well be made by ,people of the lower as of the higher ,rank4 ,take a ,piece of boil'd ,beef1 which is not always done enough2 the ,parts of it which are the least done1 and chop them small3 take as much boil'd ,cabbage as you have ,meat1 and chop that as small as the ,beef1 season this with ,pepper and ,salt1 and two or three ,eggs beaten1 to mix it up in the manner of farced ,meat4 ,whatever else of seasoning you like1 put it to it2 and when it is made into a thin ,paste1 put the ,mixture into a ,linnen-,cloth1 and boil it till it is enough1 then serve it to the ,table4 ,but this ,pudding is much better made with raw salt ,beef and boil'd ,cabbage1 for is makes an extraordinary ,paste1 and is much softer and fuller of ,gravey than the first4 ,n4,b4 ,if it is of the first ,sort1 the quantity of half a ,quartern ,loaf of fine ,bread1 may boil an ,hour1 and the latter ,sort may boil an ,hour and a half4 ,i am ,yours1 ,c4 ,b4 ,serve it with ,butter and ,gravey1 with ,lemon-,juice4 ,of the ,gourmandine-,pea1 and its several ,ways of ,dressing4 ,p4,s4 ,you have mention'd in one of your ,books a sort of ,pea1 which is call'd the ,gourmandine1 or ,gourmand2 which ,i suppose one may call1 in ,english1 the ,glutton's ,pea1 because we eat all of it4 ,for the ,pods of it are very sweet and have no ,film1 or ,skin in them1 so that the ,cods may be as well eaten as the ,peas themselves2 for which reason1 when we have drawn the ,strings from them1 as we do from ,kidney ,beans1 you may broil them upon a ,gridiron1 and serving them with gravey ,sauce1 they are very good2 or to cut them into ,pieces1 and fry them with ,mutton ,steaks2 or else you may fry them with ,beef1 and they are still better4 ,but the best way1 is to cut them cross1 as you do ,french-,beans1 and stew them in ,gravey with a little ,pepper and ,salt1 there is not any thing in my ,opinion can eat better1 and to be put in a gravey ,soop1 are incomparable2 especially1 if they have been parboil'd1 and rubb'd dry1 and then fry'd in burnt ,butter4 ,the smallest dwarf crooked ,sugar-,pea1 that you recommend1 is of the same quality1 but rather better1 for all these ,uses1 being somewhat sweeter than the former1 and the ,pod fuller of ,pulp4 ,c4 ,b4 ,to make ,verjuice of ,grapes1 unripe1 or of ,crab-,apples2 from ,j4 ,s4 ,esq4 ,take ,grapes full grown1 just before they begin to ripen1 and bruise them1 without the trouble of picking them from the ,bunches2 then put them in a ,bag1 made of ,horse-,hair1 and press them till the ,juice is discharged2 put this ,liquor into a ,stone ,jar1 leaving it uncover'd for some ,days1 then close it and keep it for use4 ,this ,verjuice is much richer than that of the ,crab-,apple1 and has a much greater influence in the way of ,callico-,printing2 but is harder to come at1 few ,people being willing to gather their ,grapes unripe2 but where there is a large ,quantity1 it is well worth while4 ,n4,b4 ,it will do well1 if the ,liquor is put into common ,casks1 but is nicer to the ,palate if it is kept in glazed ,jars of about eight or nine ,gallons1 and the ,berries might then be pick'd from the ,stalks4 ,keep this in a good ,vault1 and it will remain good for three or four ,years as ,verjuice2 but a little more time will make it lose its ,sourness1 and it will become like ,wine4 ,the ,verjuice of ,crab-,apples should be made of the wild ,crab1 which produces ,thorns on its ,branches1 and brings a small round ,apple1 such as are common to be planted for ,fences4 ,i am the more particular in this1 because some ,apples1 which are call'd ,wildings1 are supposed to have a sharp juice1 but such will soften by keeping a ,year or two4 ,take the ,crabs1 ,i speak of1 in ,october1 and grind them in a ,mill1 such as they use for making ,cyder2 then press the ,liquor1 and put it into ,vessels like the former4 ,besides the agreeable ,taste this has1 as an ,agresta at the ,table1 it is good for the ,callico ,printers4 ,a dry ,travelling ,powder1 for ,sauce1 or ,pocket-,sauce4 ,from ,mynheer ,vanderport of ,antwerp4 ,take pickled ,mango1 and let it dry three or four ,days in the ,room2 then reduce it to ,powder by means of a ,grater4 ,take of this ,powder six ,ounces1 to which add three ,ounces of ,mushrooms1 dry'd in a gentle ,oven1 and reduced to ,powder1 by beating in a ,mortar2 add to this1 a ,dram of ,mace powder'd1 half as much ,cloves powder'd2 or in their room1 a large ,nutmeg grated1 and a ,dram of black ,pepper1 beat fine3 mix these ,ingredients well together1 and sift them through an open ,hair,sieve3 and half a ,tea spoonful1 or less1 of the ,powder will relish any ,sauce you have a mind to make1 though it be a quart or more1 putting it into the ,sauce1 when it is warm4 ,to this1 one may add about nine ,grains of sweet ,basil1 dry'd and powder'd2 or of ,summer sweet ,marjoram powder'd4 ,if we use this ,sauce for ,fish1 it is extremely good1 adding only a little ,anchovy ,liquor and white ,wine4 ,to preserve ,grapes all the ,winter4 ,take an ,earthen ,jar1 well glaz'd1 that will hold about six ,gallons1 or more2 then dry some ,oats1 a little1 in the ,sun1 upon ,leads if you can1 so that they have lost some part of their ,moisture2 lay them then two ,inches thick1 at the bottom of the ,jar1 and upon them1 your ,bunches of ,grapes1 gathered full ripe and dry2 and if in any ,bunch there is a rotted ,grape1 cut it off1 and see that your ,bunches are quite clean in their ,berries2 and besides1 that all the ,parts you have cut the ,grapes from1 are quite dry4 ,lay these on the ,oats1 and upon them put two ,inches thick of ,oats1 dry'd as before2 and on them again1 a ,layer of ,grapes1 and so the ,oats upon them1 continuing this ,practice till the ,vessel is full4 ,then take a ,cork1 well soak'd in ,oil1 and stop it close in the ,jar1 and seal it up with ,pitch1 ,bees-,wax1 and a little ,rosin1 melted together1 and keep it in a cool ,place2 but to bury it three ,foot under ground1 is better4 ,a ,collar of ,mutton roasted4 ,from ,st4 ,edmund's-,bury in ,suffolk4 ,take a ,coast of ,mutton1 which is the ,neck and ,breast together1 skin it in the whole ,piece2 then parboil it1 and prepare a ,mixture of ,crumbs of ,bread2 ,lemon-,peel grated1 a little ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,nutmeg1 or sweet ,marjoram powder'd1 which answers the ,end of most ,spices1 or else a little dry'd sweet ,basil1 which we call ,bush-,basil1 in the ,gardens4 ,to this1 add the ,yolks of six hard ,eggs1 beat in a ,mortar1 with six ,ounces of ,butter2 mix this with the other ,ingredients2 then take the inside of the ,mutton1 and cover it with this ,mixture1 and roll it up as close as can be1 and secure it in the ,roll2 so that it may be close for the ,spit4 ,it must be spitted through the ,middle length-ways1 and basted with ,butter1 salting it every now and then1 and the ,gratings of ,crusts of ,bred should be sprinkled upon it1 with the seasoning above4 ,just before it is enough1 when it is taken off the ,spit1 serve it with strong ,gravey and ,lemon or ,orange ,juice1 and garnish with ,lemon or ,orange sliced2 or when ,oysters are in season1 add fry'd ,oysters3 viz4 ,to fry ,oysters for a ,plate1 or the ,garnish of the foregoing ,dish4 ,make a ,batter of ,eggs and ,flower1 ,crumbs of ,bread1 and a little ,mace1 beaten fine4 ,stew some large ,oysters in their own ,liquor gently1 and wipe them dry1 and flower them3 dip them1 after this1 in the ,batter1 and fry them in very hot ,butter1 or ,lard1 or ,seam of an ,hog2 and they will be incrustated1 or cover'd1 with a sort of ,paste1 which will be very agreeable1 either for a ,plate1 or to garnish a ,dish4 ,if we have them alone1 serve them with some of the ,liquor1 a little ,butter1 some ,white ,wine1 boiling first some ,spices in the ,liquor4 ,of a ,sturgeon1 how it ought to be cured1 for cold ,meat1 or dressed hot for the ,table4 ,the ,sturgeon is a ,fish commonly found in the ,northern ,seas2 but now and then1 we find them in our great ,rivers2 the ,thames1 the ,severn and the ,tyne4 ,this ,fish is of a very large size2 even sometimes to measure eighteen ,foot in length4 ,they are in great esteem when they are fresh taken1 to be cut in ,pieces1 of eight or ten ,pounds1 and roasted or baked2 besides1 to be pickled and preserv'd for cold ,treats3 ,and moreover1 the ,caviar1 which is esteem'd a ,dainty1 is the ,spawn of this ,fish4 ,to ,cure1 or ,pickle1 ,sturgeon2 from ,hamborough4 ,take a ,sturgeon1 gut it and clean it very well1 within side1 with ,salt and ,water2 and in the same manner clean the ,outside1 wiping both very dry with coarse ,cloths1 without taking any of the great ,scales from it3 then take off the ,head1 the ,fins and ,tail2 and if there is any ,spawn in it1 save it to be cured for ,caviar4 ,when this is done1 cut your ,fish into small ,pieces1 of about four ,pounds each1 and take out the ,bones1 as clean as possible1 and lay them in ,salt and ,water for twenty-four ,hours2 then dry them well with coarse ,cloths2 and such ,pieces as want to be rolled up1 tie them close with ,bass-strings1 that is1 the strings of ,bark which compose the ,bass ,mats1 such as the ,gardeners use3 for that being flat1 like ,tape1 will keep the ,fish close in the boiling1 which would otherwise break1 if it was tied with ,pack-,thread4 ,strew some ,salt over the ,pieces1 and let them lie three ,days2 then provide a piece of ,wicker1 made flat1 aid wide as the ,copper or ,cauldron you will boil your ,fish in1 with two or three ,strings1 fasten'd to the ,edges1 the ,ends of which should hang over the ,edges of the ,copper4 ,the ,pans we generally boil our ,fish in1 are shallow and very broad2 then make the following ,pickle1 viz4 one ,gallon of ,vinegar to four ,gallons of ,water1 and to that quantity put four ,pounds of ,salt4 ,when this boils1 put in your ,fish2 and when it is boil'd enough1 take it out1 and lay it in single ,pieces1 upon ,hurdles1 to drain1 or upon such ,boards as will not give any extraordinary ,taste to the ,fish4 ,some will boil in this ,pickle a quarter of a ,pound of whole black ,pepper4 ,when your ,fish is quite cold1 lay it in clean ,tubs1 which are call'd ,kits1 and cover it with the ,liquor it was boil'd in1 and close it up1 to be kept for ,use4 ,if at any time you perceive the ,liquor to grow mouldy1 or begin to mother1 pass it through a ,sieve2 add some fresh ,vinegar to it1 and boil it3 and when it is quite cold1 wash your ,fish in some of it1 and lay your ,pieces a-fresh in the ,tub1 covering them with ,liquor as before1 and it will keep good several ,months4 ,this is generally eaten with ,oil and ,vinegar4 ,to prepare the ,caviar1 or ,spawn1 of the ,sturgeon4 ,wash it well in ,vinegar and ,water1 and then lay it in ,salt and ,water two or three ,days2 then boil it in fresh ,water and ,salt2 and when it is cold1 put it up for ,use4 ,this is eaten upon ,toasts of white ,bread with a little ,oil4 ,to ,roast a piece of fresh ,sturgeon2 from ,mr4 ,ralph ,titchbourn1 ,cook4 ,take a piece of fresh ,sturgeon1 of about eight or ten ,pounds2 let it lie in ,water and ,salt1 six or eight ,hours1 with its great ,scales on3 then fasten it on the ,spit1 and baste it well with ,butter for a quarter of an ,hour2 and after that1 drudge it with grated ,bread1 ,flour1 some ,nutmeg1 a little ,mace powder'd1 ,pepper and ,salt1 and some sweet ,herbs dry'd and powder'd1 continuing basting and drudging of it till it is enough4 ,then serve it up with the following ,sauce1 viz4 one ,pint of thin ,gravey and ,oyster ,liquor1 with some ,horse-,radish1 ,lemon-,peel1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some whole ,pepper1 and a few ,blades of ,mace1 with a whole ,onion1 an ,anchovy1 a spoonfull or two of liquid ,katchep1 or some ,liquor of pickled ,walnuts1 with half a ,pint of ,white ,wine3 strain it off1 and put in as much ,butter as will thicken it4 ,to this put ,oysters parboil'd1 ,shrimps or ,prawns pickt1 or the inside of a ,crab1 which will make the same ,sauce very rich2 then garnish with fry'd ,oysters1 ,lemon sliced1 butter'd ,crabs and fry'd ,bread1 cut in handsome ,figures1 and pickled ,mushrooms4 ,n4,b4 ,if you have no ,katchep1 you may use ,mushroom ,gravey1 mention'd in the first ,part of your ,treatise1 or some of the travelling ,sauce in the same ,book1 or else a small ,tea spoonful of the dry ,pocket-,sauce4 ,to ,roast a ,collar1 or ,fillet1 of ,sturgeon2 from the same4 ,take a piece of fresh ,sturgeon2 take out the ,bones1 and cut the fleshy ,part into ,lengths1 about seven or eight ,inches2 then provide some ,shrimps1 chopt small with ,oysters2 some ,crumbs of ,bread1 and such seasoning of ,spice as you like1 with a little ,lemon-,peel grated4 ,when this is done1 butter one side of your ,fish1 and strew some of your ,mixture upon it2 then begin to roll it up1 as close as possible1 and when the first ,piece is rolled up1 then roll upon that another1 prepared as before1 and bind it round with a narrow ,fillet1 leaving as much of the ,fish apparent as may be4 ,but you must remark1 that the ,roll should not be above four ,inches and a half thick2 for1 else one ,part would be done enough before the ,inside was hardly warm'd3 therefore1 ,i have sometimes parboil'd the inside ,roll before ,i began to roll it4 ,when it is at the ,fire1 baste it well with ,butter1 and drudge it with sifted ,raspings of ,bread4 ,serve it with the same ,sauce as directed for the former4 ,a ,piece of fresh ,sturgeon boiled2 from the same4 ,when your ,sturgeon is clean1 prepare as much ,liquor to boil it in1 as will cover it2 that is1 take a ,pint of ,vinegar to about two ,quarts of ,water1 a stick of ,horse-,radish1 two or three bits of ,lemon-,peel1 some whole ,pepper1 a ,bay-leaf or two1 and a small handful of ,salt2 boil your ,fish in this1 till it is enough1 and serve it with the following ,sauce4 ,melt a pound of ,butter2 then add some ,anchovy ,liquor2 ,oyster ,liquor2 some ,white ,wine2 some ,katchep boil'd together with whole ,pepper and ,mace strain'd2 put to this the ,body of a ,crab1 and serve it with a little ,lemon-,juice4 ,you may likewise put in some ,shrimps1 the ,tails of ,lobsters1 cut to ,pieces1 stew'd ,oysters1 or ,cray-fish cut into small ,bits3 garnish with pickled ,mushrooms and roasted or fry'd ,oysters1 ,lemon sliced1 and ,horse-,radish scraped4 ,to make a ,sturgeon-,pye2 from the same4 ,put to a quartern of ,flour1 two ,pounds of ,butter1 and rub a third ,part in2 then make it into a ,paste with ,water1 and roll the rest in at three times2 then roll out your ,bottom1 and when it is in the ,dish1 lay some ,butter1 in pieces1 upon it2 and strew on that1 a little ,pepper and ,salt4 ,then cut your ,sturgeon in ,slices cross-ways1 about three quarters of an ,inch thick1 seasoning them with ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,nutmeg and ,lemon-,peel grated1 till your ,pye is full1 and on the ,top lay on ,pieces of ,butter2 then close it1 and put in1 just before it goes to the ,oven1 some ,white ,wine and ,water2 and when it is bak'd1 serve it3 garnish it with sliced ,lemon1 or ,orange4 ,to butter ,crabs1 from the same1 for ,garnish for the foregoing ,dishes1 or to be served by themselves4 ,take middle-siz'd ,sea-,crabs2 break the ,claws1 and pick them2 then take out the ,body1 free from all the ,films and boney ,parts2 mix these together with some ,pepper and ,salt1 to your mind2 and when you have heated some ,white ,wine over the ,fire1 put your ,mixture into it1 and stir it well together1 and keep it warm in a gentle ,oven1 till you want it for ,use3 and just before you use it1 pour into your ,mixture a little melted ,butter1 and stir it well in2 then clean your ,shells1 as well as possible1 in hot ,water1 and put in your ,mixture1 and serve it to the ,table hot4 ,or this ,mixture may be serv'd on a ,plate1 upon ,sippets1 with ,slices of ,lemon or ,orange4 ,you should fry the ,sippets4 ,the ,manner of ,pickling and ,drying of ,sheeps ,tongues1 or ,hogs ,tongues1 which they call ,stags ,tongues2 from a celebrated ,practitioner of forty ,years standing in ,london4 ,the ,sheeps ,tongues1 which are commonly bought in the ,london ,markets1 are the best1 if they are the ,tongues of ,wethers1 fed in low ,lands2 being the largest1 as they are taken from the largest sort of ,sheep3 but the ,tongues of all ,sorts of ,sheep are good enough to be worth ,pickling4 ,but there is this ,difference in the ,value1 that one large ,tongue1 well cured1 will sell for three ,pence1 while the smallest ,sort1 cured in the same manner1 will only sell for ,three ,half-pence1 or a ,penny4 ,these ,tongues are bought in ,quantities of the ,carcass ,butchers1 about ,whitechappel1 and other ,butchers about ,town1 who kill from ,one hundred to ,six hundred ,sheep in a ,day1 each ,butcher2 and they know very well how to cut out the ,tongues1 with all their ,parts to advantage3 but they are afterwards trimm'd1 when we receive them1 into a more regular ,shape2 by those who cure them4 ,when we are about this ,work1 there is one thing necessary to be observ'd1 especially in hot ,weather1 but always it is best to be done2 which is1 cut the fleshy ,part of the ,bottom of the ,tongue length-ways1 and you will find1 towards the ,root1 an ,artery1 which as soon as 'tis cut will bleed1 and joining to that is a kind of ,sweet-bread2 take these out1 as clean as you can1 without disfiguring the ,tongue2 otherwise the ,tongues will have an ungrateful ,smell1 and putrify3 so1 that if you deal by ,wholesale1 they will be return'd upon your hands1 or be a trouble to the ,family where they are made4 ,wash these well1 after trimming1 in ,salt and ,water1 and then salt them with common ,salt1 well dry'd1 in an ,iron ,kettle2 one pound to half an ,ounce of ,salt-,petre1 or ,nitre1 powder'd and well mix'd4 ,rub them well with the ,mixture1 and lay them close together in a ,tub1 or glaz'd earthen ,vessel2 and1 after a few ,days1 when they are salt enough1 take them from the ,pickle1 and when they are a little dry1 tie them by the ,tips1 half a dozen together2 and hang them up in a ,chimney1 where ,deal ,saw-,dust is burnt1 till they are smoked enough1 to be cured for boiling2 then boil them in their ,bunches1 and let them dry for ,sale4 ,but to come a quicker ,way to cure these ,tongues1 in the ,pickle1 as we do generally1 is to make a ,brine or ,pickle in the following manner2 that is1 take a quantity of ,water1 and make a ,pickle of it with common ,salt1 boil'd till it will bear an ,egg2 and then put in to every ,pound of ,salt1 half an ,ounce of ,nitre1 or ,salt-,petre2 and when the ,pickle is cold1 throw in your ,tongues3 which is the quickest ,way4 ,but for drying of them1 the ,smoking-,closets will do perfectly well1 only we have not always those ,conveniencies4 ,the ,smoking-,closets1 ,it is to be observ'd1 from your own ,writings1 ,that the ,smoking-,closets are of great use in curing of ,hams2 and they are no less useful in drying of ,tongues4 ,i have1 in a place1 in the ,country1 one of them in a ,garret1 where we enclose a ,room of ten foot ,square1 where is a ,chimney1 into which1 by a ,register1 we let in the ,smoke from the ,fire1 which is made on a ,hearth1 on the ground ,floor2 so that the ,smoke then does not come too hot on the ,tongues1 and so preserves them from turning rusty4 ,this is much the best way of curing them1 and one may cure1 in such a ,room1 fourscore dozen at a time4 ,this ,place1 likewise1 we cure our ,hung-,beef in4 ,we have try'd some ,sheeps ,tongues1 salted only in a ,brine of common ,salt1 and dry'd in such a ,room2 and they are very red1 and well tasted1 though there is no ,salt-,petre used in the ,pickle4 ,a ,carp ,pye4 ,from ,mrs4 ,mary ,gordon4 ,put to a quartern of ,flour a pound and a half of ,butter1 rubbing a third part in2 and make it into a ,paste with ,water3 then roll in the rest of the ,butter1 at two or three times1 and lay your ,paste in the ,dish1 putting some bits of ,butter1 on the bottom ,paste1 with some ,salt and ,pepper1 at discretion4 ,then scale and gut your ,carp1 and wash it with ,vinegar1 and dry it well2 and make the following ,pudding for the ,belly of the ,carp3 viz4 ,take the ,flesh of an ,eel1 and mince it very small2 add some grated ,bread1 some dry'd sweet ,marjoram powder'd1 two butter'd ,eggs1 a small ,anchovy minced1 a little ,nutmeg grated1 and some ,salt and ,pepper2 mix this well1 and fill the ,belly of the ,carp with it2 and for the remaining ,part1 make it into ,balls4 ,then cut off the ,tail and ,fins of the ,carp1 and lay it in the ,crust1 with the ,balls about it2 some ,mushroom ,buttons1 ,oysters with their ,fins taken off1 and some ,shrimps1 a few ,slices of ,lemon1 and some thin ,slices of fat ,bacon1 a little ,mace and some bits of ,butter3 then close it1 and before you put it into the ,oven1 pour in half a ,pint of ,claret4 ,serve this ,pye hot4 ,to make ,biscuits of ,potatoes4 ,from the same4 ,boil the ,roots of ,potatoes1 till they are tender2 then peel them1 and take their weight of fine ,sugar1 finely sifted2 grate some ,lemon-,peel on the ,sugar2 and then beat the ,potatoes and ,sugar together1 in a ,stone ,mortar1 with some ,butter1 a little ,mace1 or ,cloves1 finely sifted1 and a little ,gum ,dragon1 steeped in ,orange-,flower-,water1 or ,rose-,water1 till it becomes a ,paste2 then make it into ,cakes with ,sugar1 finely powder'd1 and dry them in a gentle ,oven4 ,to make ,biscuits of ,red ,beet-,roots2 from the same2 call'd the ,crimson ,biscuit4 ,take the ,roots of ,red-,beets1 and boil them tender2 clean them1 and beat them in a ,mortar with as much ,sugar1 finely sifted2 some ,butter2 the ,yolks of hard ,eggs1 a little ,flower2 some ,spice1 finely beaten1 and some ,orange-,flower-,water1 and a little ,lemon-,juice4 ,when they are well mix'd1 and reduced to a ,paste1 make them into ,cakes1 and dry them in a slow ,oven4 ,to boil ,onions1 that they shall lose their strong ,scent1 and become as sweet as ,sugar in their ,taste4 ,from the same4 ,take the largest ,onions1 and when you have cut off the ,strings of the ,roots1 and the green ,tops1 without taking off any of the ,skins1 fling them into ,salt and ,water1 and let them lie an ,hour2 then wash them in it1 and put them into a ,kettle1 where they may have plenty of ,water1 and boil them1 till they are tender4 ,then take them off1 and take off as many ,skins1 as you think fit1 till you come to the white ,part1 and then bruise them1 if you will1 and toss them up with ,cream or ,butter1 if you use them with boil'd ,rabbits1 or under a roasted ,turkey2 but in the last ,case1 this ,sauce should be serv'd in ,basons1 or on ,plates4 ,you may also bruise them1 and strain them through a ,cullendar1 and then put ,cream to them2 which is esteem'd the nicest way for a ,turkey2 or if you keep them whole1 you may warm them in strong ,gravey1 well drawn1 with ,spice and sweet ,herbs2 and when that is done1 thicken the ,gravey with burnt ,butter1 adding a little ,claret1 or ,white ,wine2 or1 for want of that1 a little ,ale4 ,this is a ,sauce for a ,turkey roasted1 or roast ,mutton1 or ,lamb4 ,hungary-,water4 ,from ,mrs4 ,du ,pont1 of ,lyons2 which is the same1 which has been famous1 about ,montpelier4 ,take to every ,gallon of ,brandy1 or clean ,spirits1 one handful of ,rosemary1 one handful of ,lavender4 ,i suppose the handfuls to be about a ,foot long a-piece2 and these ,herbs must be cut in ,pieces1 about an ,inch long4 ,put these to infuse in the ,spirits1 and with them1 about an handful of ,myrtle1 cut as before4 ,when this has stood three ,days1 distil it1 and you will have the finest ,hungary-,water that can be4 ,it has been said1 that ,rosemary ,flowers are better than the ,stalks2 but they give a faintness to the ,water1 and should not be used1 because they have a quite different ,smell from the ,rosemary2 nor should the ,flowers of ,myrtle be used in lieu of the ,myrtle1 for they have a scent ungrateful1 and not at all like the ,myrtle4 ,the ,manner of making the famous ,barcelona ,snuff1 as it was perform'd at the ,lyon at ,barcelona2 from the same4 ,this is also call'd ,myrtle ,snuff4 ,take ,seville ,snuff1 and prepare a dry ,barrel1 that has not had any ,wine in it1 or of any ,scent2 then cut the fresh ,tops of ,myrtle1 and lay a layer of them at the bottom of the ,cask1 an ,inch or two thick2 then lay ,snuff on that as thick1 and lay on more ,myrtle1 two ,inches2 then again1 put on ,snuff1 and so fill the ,barrel in the same ,manner1 ,stratum super ,stratum4 ,then press it down with a ,board1 that will fit1 and set three ,weights upon it of a quarter of an ,hundred a-piece1 and let it stand four and twenty ,hours2 then turn it out1 and sift it1 flinging the ,myrtle away2 then put it into the ,cask1 as before1 with fresh ,myrtle1 and serve it so three times1 and sift it off4 ,when this is done1 add to every ten ,pounds of ,snuff1 one pound of ,orangery ,snuff1 and mix the whole very well1 and after three days1 put it into glaz'd ,pots1 well pressed into them1 and stopt close2 or else into ,leaden ,pots3 which last is rather the best4 ,to make ,orangery ,snuff4 ,from the same4 ,take ,seville ,snuff and ,orange-,flowers1 fresh gather'd early in the ,morning4 ,and in a glaz'd ,earthen ,vessel1 lay a ,layer of the ,flowers1 then a ,layer of ,snuff1 then a ,layer of ,flowers2 and so on1 till the ,pot is full4 ,press it down very gently1 and let the ,mouth of the ,pot be open for twenty-four ,hours2 then turn all out1 and sift your ,snuff1 and lay in fresh ,flowers1 with ,snuff1 in the same manner as before2 and at the end of four and twenty ,hours sift it off again1 and repeat the same the third time3 being sure that the ,flowers do not remain longer than twenty-four ,hours1 else they will sour the ,snuff4 ,in making this ,snuff1 you ought to allow at least a pound for ,waste1 for the ,flowers will gather a great deal of it4 ,to make ,orange-,butter4 ,from the same4 ,take ,hogs-,lard 7or as in some ,places1 call'd ,hogs-,seame7 wash this well in ,spring-,water1 beating it all the while with a piece of ,wood2 then take ,orange-,flowers1 fresh gather'd1 and melt the ,lard gently1 and put about a quarter of a pound of the ,flowers into a pound of ,lard2 let them remain ten ,minutes1 gently keeping them warm over the ,fire2 then strain it off1 and when the ,lard is again cold1 beat it1 and wash it with ,orange-,flower-,water4 ,then melt it gently a second time1 and put in fresh ,flowers1 in the same manner as before1 and it will become of a yellow ,colour2 and1 when it is cool1 beat it again with a wooden ,paddle and ,orange-,flower-,water1 and then put it into ,pots for use4 ,i should remark1 that the ,lard should be melted by putting it in a glazed ,vessel1 and melting it by putting the ,vessel into boiling ,water4 ,to make ,flour of ,mustard4 ,those who live in the ,country1 or go to ,sea1 have frequent occasion to use ,mustard1 when there is no opportunity of getting it without extraordinary ,trouble4 ,it is a ,sauce seldom thought on till the ,minute we want it2 and then1 according to the old ,way of making it1 if we are lucky enough to have ,mustard-,seed in the ,house1 we must spend an ,hour in the ,ceremony of grinding it in a wooden ,bowl1 and an ,iron ,cannon-,bullet1 according to the old ,custom2 or1 if we have ,mustard by us1 ready made1 if it has stood a ,week1 it is then of no value1 if it is in small quantity4 ,but to obviate this ,difficulty1 the ,invention of grinding ,mustard-,seed in a ,mill1 and thereby reducing of it to ,flour1 to be made fit for the ,table in an instant1 has been very well received3 for by that ,contrivance we have it always fresh1 and full of brisk ,spirits1 and may only make just what we want without any spoil1 as long as we keep a ,stock of this ,flour by us4 ,there are two ,sorts of ,mustard3 viz4 ,the white ,sort1 which is a large ,grain1 and not so strong2 and the black ,sort1 which is a small ,grain4 ,that which ,i account the best1 is from the wild ,mustard1 commonly found growing in ,essex1 which sells the best in the ,markets4 ,but from whatever ,place we have it1 regard should be chiefly had to its being free from ,mustiness1 which happens from the gathering the ,seed wet1 or in the ,dew1 and laying it close together before it is thresh'd4 ,when this ,seed is dry and sweet1 grind it in a ,mill1 such as a ,coffee-,mill2 but the ,mill must be fresh1 and free from any ,flavour or ,taint3 it should not indeed be used with any other thing4 ,when you have ground a sufficient ,quantity1 pass it through a pretty open ,sieve1 and the next day put it into ,vials with open ,mouths1 pressing it down close2 stop them well1 and keep it for use4 ,when you want good ,mustard for the ,table1 take a spoonful or two of this ,flour1 and as much boiling ,liquor from the ,pot1 where ,beef or ,pork is boiled1 as will make it of the ,consistence you desire1 stirring it well till it is mixt for your ,purpose2 or for want of such ,liquor1 boil a little ,salt and ,water together1 and mix your ,mustard-,flour with that2 but in either of these ,ways you must observe1 that while your ,mustard is warm1 it will last better4 ,some who do not love their ,mustard overstrong1 put equal ,quantities of the white and black ,mustard-,seed into the ,mill1 and then the ,flour will not be so poignant to the ,palate1 and will have a brighter ,look4 ,if your ,mill be set very sharp1 the ,flour will be so fine1 that it need hardly be sifted4 ,to keep ,anchovys good for a long time4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,n4 ,as the ,people in the ,country have not always the conveniency of a ,market near them1 and the ,anchovy is often required for ,fish-,sauce2 so should every ,family keep a quantity by them4 ,they should be large1 and fresh brought over when we buy them1 and feel firm to the ,finger2 neither should they have their ,heads on1 for they are then more apt to turn rancid and stink2 and if we buy them in large ,quantities1 the frequent opening the ,pot we keep them in will subject them to ,change4 ,but to prevent this1 as the ,liquor falls or shrinks1 add ,vinegar to them1 which will continue them firm and free from ,rotting for two ,years4 ,to ,roast a ,shoulder of ,mutton like ,venison4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,shoulder of ,mutton1 and skin it2 then lay it in the fresh ,blood of a ,sheep1 well stirr'd with a little ,salt1 as it is bleeding1 for six or eight ,hours4 ,when you have done this1 wash it in ,water and ,salt1 and at last with ,vinegar2 or else you may steep it in an ,infusion of warm ,water1 a ,gallon1 and half a quarter of an ,ounce of ,brazil-,wood rasp'd4 ,you may steep it in this ,liquor for four ,hours1 or else you may let it pass half an ,hour in a gentle ,oven with ,water and ,salt1 and a small ,piece of ,brazil-,wood in it2 either of which will give it a ,colour3 but ,i think the two last are better than the ,blood4 ,roast it then for its time1 basting it well with ,water and ,salt1 till it is near enough1 and then give it a little sprinkling of ,salt and raspings of ,bread1 with some ,flour well mixt4 ,the ,sauce for this is ,claret boil'd with ,cinnamon1 sweetned with a little ,sugar and ,crumbs of ,bread grated3 but some will use the ,claret1 ,sugar and ,cinnamon without the ,crumbs1 in ,saucers2 as it is now the most common way in ,noblemens ,families to do ,venison4 ,but in the ,dish with the artificial ,shoulder of ,venison1 put a strong ,gravey of ,beef2 or made of some of the ,beef-,glue which you have recommended in your ,book4 ,to make a ,hare-,pye1 for a cold ,treat4 ,from the same4 ,take the ,flesh of an ,hare1 and beat it in a ,marble ,mortar2 then add as many butter'd ,eggs as will almost equal the ,quantity of the ,hare's-,flesh4 ,mix these together with a little fat ,bacon cut small1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 and a little powder of ,cloves and ,mace1 or sweet ,marjoram1 to your ,pleasure1 and mix them very well2 then lay in your ,paste1 and butter it well at the bottom with some seasoning1 strew'd upon it1 and lay in your ,preparation1 and cover it with ,butter2 then close it1 and serve it when it is cold4 ,to preserve ,ginger1 and reduce the common ,ginger for that purpose4 ,from the same4 ,take the large ,roots of ,ginger1 and pour scalding ,water upon them2 and when that is cool1 pour on some more scalding ,water3 and so repeat the same till the seventh or eighth time1 or till you find the ,ginger soft1 and very much swell'd4 ,then warm some ,white ,wine1 and put it in that1 for a few ,hours1 stirring it frequently while it is in any of the ,liquors4 ,boil the last ,liquor with fine ,sugar to a ,syrup2 then put in your ,ginger1 and boil it for some time2 then set it by till the next day1 and repeat the boiling of the ,ginger1 adding every now and then a little ,white ,wine1 till the ,ginger begins to look a little clear2 and when it is cold1 put it into ,glasses1 or glazed ,jars1 stopping it close4 ,marmalade of ,oranges and ,lemons4 ,from the same4 ,it is necessary to boil the ,rinds of each in several ,waters1 till the ,bitterness is lost1 and that they are reduced to a tenderness1 such as you like2 then beat them in a ,marble ,mortar with as much of the ,pulp of ,golden-,pippins1 or ,golden-,rennets1 as you think proper4 ,then take their weight of ,sugar well powder'd1 and a ,pint of ,water to every ,pound of ,sugar2 boil your ,sugar and ,water1 and when you have made a ,syrup1 put in your ,pulp1 and boil them all together till they are clear4 ,then put in the ,juice of ,oranges and ,lemons1 so much as will give you the ,taste you desire2 then boil it over again till it jellies1 and put it into ,glasses1 ,keep this in a dry ,place4 ,to make ,syrup of ,mulberries4 ,from the same4 ,press out the ,juice of ,mulberries with your ,hands1 and pass it through a ,sieve2 and when it has stood to settle1 pour off the clear1 and put to it1 its ,weight of fine ,sugar2 put this into a ,gallypot1 and set that ,pot into a ,kettle of hot ,water1 which should be kept simmering near two ,hours3 stir the ,syrup every now and then with a ,silver ,spoon1 and take off what ,scum may rise at ,times1 upon it2 when it is enough1 let it stand till it is quite cold1 and then put it into clear dry ,bottles with large ,mouths1 and stop them close4 ,keep this in a dry ,place4 ,it is to be remark'd1 that besides this ,syrup is very cooling2 its use is to colour stew'd ,apples1 or ,puddings1 or any sweet ,preparation made with ,flour or ,fruit3 for in itself it carries no ,flavour that will be predominant over that of another ,fruit4 ,of ,syrup of ,raspberries1 ,currans1 or other ,fruits4 ,from the same4 ,these ,syrups are made like the former1 by pressing out the ,juice with the ,hands2 because if the ,seeds are broken1 they would have an ill ,taste4 ,treat these in the making just in the same way as the former1 and use them in the same manner1 to colour any sweet ,preparation2 but remember1 where you put any of the ,raspberry ,syrup1 the ,flavour of the ,raspberry will prevail4 ,to make a ,raspberry-,pudding4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,pint of ,cream1 and grate into it four ,penny ,naples ,biscuits2 then take the ,yolks of eight hard ,eggs chopt and broken small2 then beat four ,eggs and put in two spoonfuls of ,flour1 and as much ,powder of double-refined ,sugar2 then put in as much ,syrup of ,raspberries as you think proper to give it a ,flavour and a ,colour4 ,if you find that your ,composition is not thick enough1 you may grate in more ,naples ,biscuit4 ,mix all this well together1 and1 if you will1 make a fine ,crust roll'd thin and laid in a ,dish1 and bake it in a gentle ,oven4 ,parsnip-,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,scrape some ,parsnip-,roots1 and slice them thin1 dry them in an ,oven and beat them to ,powder2 mix them then with an equal quantity of ,flour1 and make them up with ,cream and ,spices powder'd2 then mould them into ,cakes1 and bake them in a gentle ,oven4 ,n4,b4 ,the sweetness of the ,parsnip ,powder answers the want of ,sugar4 ,to make ,raspberry bak'd ,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,take ,potatoes and boil them1 and when they are peel'd1 beat them in a ,marble ,mortar with half the ,quantity of fine ,sugar powder'd2 then put in some of your ,raspberry ,syrup1 till it is coloured with it1 and make up your ,cakes in fine ,sugar powder'd4 ,then dry them1 or bake them1 in a gentle ,oven1 ,note1 these ,cakes should be made thin4 ,of ,ortolans4 ,from ,mr4 ,renaud4 ,the ,ortolan is a ,bird brought from ,france1 and is fed in large ,cages with ,canary-,seeds till they become a lump of ,fat2 and when they are fully fatted1 they must be killed1 or else they will feed upon their own ,flesh4 ,when we kill them1 you must take them by the ,beak1 and holding it close between your ,finger and ,thumb1 the ,bird will be stifled in about a ,minute2 then pick off the ,feathers even those of the ,head1 and pass a fine ,skewer through them1 just under the ,wings1 and roast them quick2 setting small ,toasts under them to drip upon4 ,serve them with strong ,gravey1 and as much ,white ,wine hot1 and garnish with ,slices of ,lemon and ,raspings of ,bread sifted and toasted before the ,fire4 ,to make ,sugar ,comfits of any ,sort4 ,from ,mrs4 ,anne ,shepherd of ,norwich4 ,the ,seeds which we generally make ,comfitts of1 are ,carraways1 ,coriander and ,anise-,seeds2 these1 when they are cover'd with ,sugar1 are call'd ,comfits1 7,confects74 ,the ,instruments to be employ'd for this ,use1 are first a deep-bottom'd ,bason of ,bell-,metal1 or ,brass1 well tinn'd1 to be hung over some hot ,coals4 ,secondly1 ,you must have a broad ,pan to put hot ,coals in4 ,thirdly1 ,provide a ,brass ,ladle to pour the ,sugar upon the ,seeds4 ,fourthly1 ,you must have a ,brass ,slice to scrape off the ,sugar that may chance to hang upon the side of the hanging ,bason4 ,then take care that your ,seeds are dry1 or dry them well in your hanging ,pan4 ,to every quarter of a ,pound of ,seeds use two ,pounds of fine ,sugar beaten2 unless to ,anise-,seeds1 use two ,pounds of ,sugar to half a ,pound of ,seeds4 ,to begin the ,work1 put three ,pounds of fine ,sugar into the ,bason with one ,pint of ,water1 to be stirr'd well together till the ,sugar is wet2 and boil it gently1 till the ,sugar will rope from the ,ladle like ,turpentine1 and it is enough4 ,keep this however warm1 upon warm ,embers1 that it may run4 freely in a ropy ,way from the ,ladle upon the ,seeds4 ,when this is ready1 move the ,seeds briskly in the ,bason1 and fling on them half a ladle-full at a time of the hot ,sugar1 keeping the ,seeds moving for some time2 which will make them take the ,sugar the better1 and be sure to dry them well after every covering1 by moving the ,bason1 and stirring the ,comfits4 ,in an ,hour1 you may make three ,pounds of ,comfits3 you will know when they are coated enough with ,sugar1 by their becoming as large as you would have them4 ,there is no certain ,rule1 but our own ,fancies1 for the ,size of them4 ,note1 ,till they are as you would have them1 cast on more melted ,sugar1 as at first1 and keep them stirring and shaking in the ,pan1 drying them well after every ,coat of ,sugar4 ,if you would have ragged or rough ,comfits1 make your ,sugar so liquid1 that it will run from the ,ladle2 and let it fall upon the ,seeds about a ,foot and a half high4 ,let it be very hot1 for the hotter it is1 the rougher will be your ,comfits2 and for all that1 the ,comfits will not take so much ,sugar as one may imagine from their ,appearance4 ,put on at each time only one ,ladle-full1 and in ten times repeating it your ,comfits will be perfectly well coated4 ,for plain ,comfits2 let not your melted ,sugar be too hot at first1 nor too thick2 neither pour it on the ,seeds too high3 but the last two or three ,coverings may be thicker and hotter4 ,as for ,coriander-,seeds1 which are large1 three ,pounds of ,sugar will only cover a quarter of a ,pound of them4 ,while your are at work1 you should keep your melted ,sugar in good ,temper1 that it may not gather into ,lumps1 or burn to the bottom of the ,pan2 and to prevent its growing too thick at any time1 put to it a spoonful or two of ,water1 gently stirring it now and then with your ,ladle1 keeping your ,fire very clear under your ,pan4 ,when your ,comfits are made1 put them upon ,papers in ,dishes1 and set them before the ,fire1 or in a declining ,oven1 which will make them look of a ,snow white2 when they are cool1 put them in ,boxes1 or in crystal ,bottles4 ,to make ,comfits of various ,colours4 ,from the same4 ,if you would have your ,comfits of a red ,colour1 infuse some red ,saunders in the ,water till it is deep colour'd enough2 or else take some ,cochineel1 and infuse it till the ,liquor is red enough2 or put some ,syrup of ,mulberries with ,water to the ,sugar4 ,if of a yellow ,colour2 use ,saffron in ,water1 which you are to mix with the ,sugar4 ,if ,green2 take the ,juice of ,spinach1 and boil it with the ,sugar3 so will your ,comfits be of the several ,colours above-mention'd4 ,to preserve ,orange and ,lemons-,peels in ,jelly4 ,from the same4 ,cut some of the fairest ,oranges and ,lemons in halves2 then scoop out all the ,pulp and ,inside1 and boil them in several ,waters till they are so tender1 that you may pass a ,straw through them2 then wash them in cold ,water4 ,boil then the following ,preparation3 viz4 ,the ,quantity of a ,quart of ,water to every ,pound of ,peel2 and in it some thin ,slices of ,golden-,pippins1 or ,golden ,rennets1 till the ,water becomes slippery4 ,then to this ,water1 add as much ,sugar as will boil it to a strong ,syrup2 then put in your ,peels and scald them1 and set them by till the ,day following1 and boil them again till the ,syrup will jelly4 ,then put your ,peels into your ,glasses1 and put into your ,syrup the ,juice of three large ,oranges1 and one ,lemon strain'd1 and boil it till it will make a stiff ,jelly1 and pour it upon your ,peels4 ,when this is quite cold1 then put ,papers over the ,glasses1 and keep them in a dry ,place4 ,you may also pare the ,rinds1 in ,rings or ,slices1 and boil them as before2 and in every respect treat them as you are directed to preserve the halves of ,oranges4 ,to preserve ,orange-,flowers in ,jelly4 ,gather your ,orange-,flowers1 in the ,morning early1 when they are just open1 and take the ,leaves of them4 ,boil these gently in two or three ,waters1 passing them every time through a ,sieve3 shift the ,waters often1 to take out the too great bitterness1 but don't boil them too soft1 nor to lose their ,whiteness4 ,when this is done1 make a strong jelly'd ,syrup with ,water and fine ,sugar1 and add some ,juice of ,lemon or ,orange to it2 then pour it on the ,leaves of the ,orange-,flowers2 and when it is cold1 cover your ,glasses with ,paper4 ,n4,b4 ,you may thicken your ,syrup with the ,pulp of ,pippins4 ,lemon-,cakes4 ,from ,mrs4 ,anne ,shepperd of ,norwich4 ,take out the ,pulp of ,lemons1 as little bruis'd as possible2 then boil some ,sugar to a candied height1 and put to it the ,pulp and ,juice1 and stir it quickly2 then put it into a ,stove or into hot ,sand4 ,when you observe that it begins to candy on one side1 then turn them out of the ,glasses with a wet ,knife on the other side1 and let that candy too1 in the same manner2 when all is done1 put them in a ,box between ,papers1 and keep them in a dry ,place4 ,tripe of ,eggs4 ,from ,mr4 ,fontaine4 ,take the ,whites of ,eggs1 and beat them very well in a ,porringer2 prepare then some hot ,water and ,vinegar with a little ,salt1 and then put in the ,eggs1 till they are hard2 then cut them in pieces about an ,inch square1 and then take some ,white ,wine1 and as much ,water and some ,salt4 ,put this in a ,pan1 and heat it over the ,fire with a little ,parsley1 an ,onion and some ,spice2 when it is hot1 serve it up with ,butter and ,mustard1 and it will eat like ,tripe3 or else you may serve it like a ,ragoust1 with the following ,sauce2 viz4 ,sauce for the ,artificial ,tripe in ,ragoust4 ,from the same4 ,take strong ,gravey made of ,beef1 and the ,ingredients which are mention'd in the drawing of ,gravey4 ,warm it with a little ,white ,wine1 and thicken the ,sauce with burnt ,butter3 then1 when the ,eggs are warm'd1 pour the ,sauce over them4 ,bacon ,froize1 or ,fraise4 ,from ,mrs4 ,bradbury4 ,cut fat ,bacon in small ,pieces1 about an ,inch long1 and then prepare ten or a dozen ,eggs well beat2 put in a little ,milk1 some ,spice1 at pleasure1 and some ,flour2 then put some ,lard or ,seam of an ,hog into a ,pan1 and make it very hot2 and when it is so1 pour in the ,mixture1 and clap a dish over it1 after you have thrown some of the ,seam upon it4 ,when the ,froize is done enough on one side1 turn it with the ,dish1 and fry it till it is quite enough4 ,then serve it with a garnish of sliced ,lemons and a little ,butter1 first letting it drain4 ,clary and ,eggs1 ,from the same4 ,take eight or ten ,eggs2 beat them well in a ,porringer2 then take some ,clary ,leaves1 and chop them small2 add a little ,pepper and ,salt1 and some ,onion chopt small4 ,this ,mixture must be fry'd in hot ,lard or ,hog-,seam1 and serve it with ,slices of ,lemon4 ,to stew a ,pig4 ,from the same4 ,roast a ,pig till it is hot2 then take off the ,skin and cut it in pieces2 then take some ,white ,wine and good ,gravey1 and stew it with an ,onion1 some ,pepper1 ,salt1 some ,nutmeg1 a little sweet ,marjoram1 and some ,elder ,vinegar1 with some ,butter2 and when it is enough1 lay it upon ,sippits1 and garnish with sliced ,lemon4 ,to stew a ,pig another way4 ,from the same4 ,roast a ,pig till you can take off the ,skin2 cut it then in small pieces1 and stew it in ,white ,wine1 with a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 an ,onion1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 a few ,cloves1 or a little sweet ,marjoram powder'd4 ,when it is enough1 strain off the ,liquor it was boil'd in1 and in some of that put some ,mushrooms1 and thicken it with ,cream1 and it will make an excellent ,dish4 ,you may garnish it with sliced ,lemon and pickled ,barberries4 ,to make a ,fricassee of ,sheeps ,trotters4 ,clean them very well from the ,hair2 then wash them in ,vinegar and ,water2 then take out the ,bones1 and boil them in ,salt and ,water with a little ,lemon-,peel4 ,when they are hot1 give them either of the following ,sauces4 ,for a white ,sauce1 take the following3 viz4 ,take some ,water1 with some ,salt1 a few sweet ,herbs1 some whole ,pepper1 some ,lemon-,peel and a bit of ,horse-,radish1 a ,shallot1 and a little ,white ,wine4 ,when it is strong enough relish'd1 then strain it off1 and take a little of it1 and mix it with ,butter to thicken it1 or ,cream would do better1 about half a ,pint3 pour this over the ,sheeps ,trotters with a few ,capers1 and serve it up with ,slices of ,lemons4 ,a brown ,fricassee of ,sheeps ,trotters4 ,dress them as before1 and when they are fit for ,sauce1 then take some ,hogs ,lard1 and make it very hot in a ,pan1 then put in your ,trotters1 when they are well covered with ,flour1 and when they are done enough1 pour over them a ,sauce made of ,gravey1 some ,claret and some ,mushrooms thickned with burnt ,butter4 ,this will make a good brown ,fricassee2 and serve it up with a garnish of ,lemon sliced1 ,barberries pickled1 some raspings of ,bread lifted1 and toasted before the ,fire4 ,to make a ,lumber-,pye4 ,from ,exeter4 ,take a ,pound of lean ,veal1 free from ,strings1 shred it very small1 season it with ,cloves and ,mace powder'd1 some powder of dry'd sweet ,herbs1 some ,lemon-,peel grated1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 three large spoonfulls of grated ,bread1 a little ,juice of ,lemon1 and five or six butter'd ,eggs4 ,mix these ,ingredients well together into a ,paste or as a farced ,meat for ,balls about the ,bigness of small ,wallnuts2 then take two or three large ,veal ,sweat breads1 and cut them in pieces2 then provide a ,pint of ,mushroom ,buttons well clean'd1 and the ,yolks of eight hard ,eggs cut in halves1 a dozen ,coxcombs well scalded and clean'd3 lay these with a seasoning of ,pepper and ,salt in a good ,paste that covers the bottom of your ,dish2 first laying bits of ,butter on the ,paste at the ,bottom4 ,some will put about half a ,pound of ,currans into this ,pye2 but every one to their ,fancy4 ,when your ,ingredients are disposed in your ,dish1 lay on about four ,ounces of ,marrow1 and the quantity of six ,ounces of ,butter1 and then close it4 ,just before you set it in the ,oven1 pour into your ,pye half a ,pint of ,water2 and as soon as you take it out1 pour in half a ,pint of ,white ,wine warm'd1 and serve it hot4 ,to make ,orange or ,lemon ,tarts4 ,from ,mrs4 ,j4 ,s4 ,take the ,rinds of half a score ,oranges or ,lemons1 and salt them four ,hours2 then boil them in four or five ,waters till they are tender1 and beat them in a ,marble ,mortar till they are reduced to a ,pulp2 then squeeze in the ,juice of as many of the ,oranges or ,lemons as you think fit1 and sweeten the whole very well with fine ,sugar1 and boil it till it is thick1 stirring it while it boils1 that it may not burn2 then let it stand till it is cold1 and put it into your ,paste4 ,when you serve it1 strew fine ,sugar over it4 ,serve it cold4 ,to make ,lemon ,cheesecakes4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4,n4 ,grate the ,rind of a large ,lemon1 into the ,yolks of eight raw ,eggs1 being first very well beat2 then add a quarter of a ,pound of fine ,sugar well beaten and sifted1 and four ,ounces of fresh ,butter2 warm these gently over a ,fire1 keeping it stirring all the while till it begins to thicken2 then take it off1 and put it in the ,coffins made of puff ,crust1 and bake your ,cheesecakes in a gentle ,oven4 ,to make ,orange or ,lemon ,cheesecakes1 another way4 ,from the same4 ,take the ,rind of a large ,lemon or ,orange1 and boil it in four or five ,waters till it is quite tender1 and free from its ,bitterness2 then either shred it or beat it very fine in a ,marble ,mortar with the ,yolks of eight hard ,eggs1 six ,ounces of ,loaf-,sugar finely powder'd1 and a spoonfull of ,orange-,flower-,water3 mix this then with as much ,cream1 and two ,eggs beat1 as will render it of the ,consistence of ,cheesecake-meat before it is baked2 then put it into your ,coffins1 and bake them in a gentle ,oven4 ,you may put in ,currans if you please1 but they are generally omitted3 however1 if you like to have them1 let them be first plump'd a little over the ,fire in ,sugar and ,water4 ,the best way for these ,cheesecakes is to make the ,coffins in ,patty-,pans1 and fill them with the ,meat near an ,inch thick4 ,the ,proportions mention'd above will serve to direct for a large quantity4 ,to make ,cheesecakes4 ,from ,lady ,g4 ,take a ,quart of tender ,curd1 and drain it from the ,whey2 then break it small2 then take a quarter of an ,ounce of ,mace finely powder'd1 and eight ,ounces of fine ,sugar sifted1 eight ,yolks of ,eggs well beaten1 four ,ounces of blanched ,almonds beat fine in a ,marble ,mortar with ,rose-,water1 or ,orange-,flower-,water1 and grate four penny ,naples ,biscuits into a ,pint of ,cream1 and boil them together over a gentle ,fire1 stirring it all the while till it is as thick as an hasty ,pudding2 then mix with it eight ,ounces of ,butter1 and put it to the ,curd1 but not too hot3 mix then all well together1 and put it in your ,paste4 ,a ,sorrel ,tart4 ,from the same4 ,wash some ,spinach and ,sorrel ,leaves in two or three ,waters1 for they are apt to gather ,dirt2 then either shred them1 and squeeze the ,juice out through a ,cloth1 or else beat them in a ,mortar of ,marble1 and strain off the ,juice2 about half a ,pint of ,juice will be enough3 then shred into it about a ,quart measure of the same ,herbs1 and add six ,ounces of fine ,sugar beaten1 and some ,spice1 with the ,yolks of six hard ,eggs bruised1 and well mix'd with it1 and two ,eggs raw well beaten2 then put in half a ,pint of ,cream1 stirring it well1 and put it in a ,paste1 then bake it in a very gentle ,oven4 ,when it is done1 sift on some fine ,sugar1 and garnish with ,orange and ,lemon sliced2 you may put in some ,orange-,flower-,water1 if you think convenient4 ,to make ,umble ,pye4 ,from ,mr4 ,thomas ,fletcher of ,norwich4 ,take the ,umbles of a ,deer and boil them tenderly1 and when they are cold1 chop them as small as ,meat for minc'd ,pyes1 and shred to them as much ,beef-,suet1 six large ,apples1 half a ,pound of ,sugar1 a ,pound of ,currans1 a little ,salt1 and as much ,cloves1 ,nutmeg and ,pepper powder'd as you see convenient2 then mix them well together1 and when they are put into the ,paste1 pour in half a ,pint of ,sack1 the ,juice of two ,lemons and an ,orange3 and when this is done1 close the ,pye1 and when it is baked1 serve it hot to the ,table4 ,to ,stew ,peaches4 ,from the same4 ,take ,peaches when they are so ripe that they begin to smell2 then pare them and slit them1 and the ,sorts ,i recommend will leave the ,stones4 ,put these in a ,silver ,plate1 or on such a one as will not communicate any ill taste to them1 and pour over them a ,syrup made of ,pippins1 ,water and ,sugar boil'd till it is a ,jelly1 and add a little ,white ,wine2 then stew them gently over a clear ,fire till they are tender2 and serve them with fine ,sugar sifted upon them4 ,in some ,cafes they pour ,cream upon them4 ,red ,peach ,tarts4 ,from the same4 ,take your ,peaches1 as before directed1 and order them as you did before in paring them and slitting them2 then lay them into the ,coffins1 and when you have sifted on them some fine powder'd ,loaf-,sugar1 pour over them some ,syrup of ,raspberries or ,mulberries1 and bake them gently3 they will be tender and very highly flavoured1 if you put ,raspberries to them1 and finely colour'd2 but to have them more of their own ,taste1 put ,syrup of ,mulberries to them1 and they will be finely colour'd4 ,the ,coffins or ,crust ought to be made of melting ,paste1 with fine ,sugar in it4 ,bitters to be drank with ,wine4 ,take a ,quart of clean ,spirit1 or good ,brandy1 and put into it an ,ounce of ,gentian ,root sliced1 one ,ounce and a half of dry'd ,orange-,peel1 and one ,drachm of ,virginia ,snake-,root2 add to this half a ,drachm of ,cochineel1 and half a ,drachm of ,loaf-,sugar2 which last will heighten the ,bitter to admiration4 ,a little of this ,bitter in a ,glass of ,white ,wine creates an ,appetite4 ,to ,stew ,wild-,ducks4 ,from ,amsterdam4 ,when your ,ducks are ready prepar'd for the ,fire1 rub their ,inside with ,pepper1 ,salt1 and a little powder of ,cloves1 a ,shallot or two1 with a lump of ,butter in the ,belly of each of them2 then lay them in an earthen glazed ,pan1 that will just hold them1 and put three ,quarters of a ,pound of ,butter under and over your ,ducks3 then pour in a ,pint of ,vinegar1 and as much ,water with some ,salt1 ,pepper1 some ,lemon-,peel1 some ,cloves whole1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and covering the ,pan close1 let them stew three or four ,hours4 ,then pass the ,liquor through a ,sieve1 and pour it over your ,ducks2 and serve them hot with garnish of ,lemon sliced and ,raspings of ,bread sifted4 ,this ,method serves likewise for ,easterlings1 ,widgeons1 ,teal and such like4 ,to ,stew a salted ,brisket of ,beef4 ,from ,mr4 ,la ,fontaine4 ,to a ,pound of common ,salt1 put one ,ounce of ,salt-,petre1 and rub your ,beef well with it1 and let it lie a ,week2 then lard the ,skin of it with ,bacon-,fat1 and lay it in a ,stew-pan that will shut close4 ,cut a ,lemon in half with its ,rind1 and lay a-part on each side the ,beef2 then put in a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some whole ,cloves1 half a ,nutmeg sliced1 some ,pepper1 an ,onion1 or three or four ,shallots1 half a ,pound of ,butter1 a ,pint of ,claret1 and a ,quart of ,water2 shut your ,pan close1 and let it stew gently five or six ,hours till it is very tender4 ,then having some boil'd ,turnip cut in dice1 flour them and fry them brown2 then pour off the ,liquor the ,beef was stew'd in1 and having passed it through a ,sieve1 thicken it with burnt ,butter1 and mix your fry'd ,turnips with it1 and pour all together over your ,beef2 garnish with ,lemon sliced1 and ,raspings of ,bread sifted1 and serve it hot1 it is an excellent ,dish4 ,neck of ,mutton ragou'd4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,neck of ,mutton clean from ,bones1 and strip it from the ,skin2 salt it a little1 and let it lie till the next day4 ,in the mean while1 bake the ,bones with a slice or two of fat ,bacon1 a ,faggot of sweet ,herbs1 some ,spice1 a little ,salt and some ,lemon-,peel1 with half a ,pint of ,water1 and half a ,pint of ,claret1 to cover them2 then lay your ,mutton in a ,pan1 and when your baked ,gravey is passed through a ,sieve1 pour it into the ,pan to the ,mutton2 but first lard the fat ,part of the ,mutton with ,lemon-,peel1 and the leaner ,part with ,fat of ,bacon2 then strew some grated ,bread and ,spice over the ,mutton1 which will not be cover'd with the baked ,gravey2 and when you have closed your ,pan1 stew it gently four ,hours4 ,then lay it in the ,dish1 and when you have thickned the ,sauce with burnt ,butter1 put a ,pint of ,mushroom ,buttons1 either fresh and parboil'd1 or pickled1 into it1 and toss them up till they are hot2 then pour them all over your ,meat1 and serve it hot1 garnish'd with ,lemon sliced1 red ,beet-,roots pickled and sliced1 ,capers1 and ,horse-,radish scrap'd4 ,stew'd ,beef in ,soup4 ,from the same4 ,take four ,pounds of ,beef1 indifferently lean1 and cut it in eight or ten ,pieces4 ,put these into a ,pan that may be close cover'd1 and then about three ,quarts of ,water1 and a ,pint of ,white ,wine1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 some ,powder of dry'd sweet ,marjoram1 a few ,cloves powder'd1 half a dozen small ,turnips cut in ,dice1 a ,carrot or two cut in the same manner1 the white ,part of a large ,leek shred small1 some ,leaves of white ,beet1 two ,heads of ,sallery shred1 and a ,piece of ,bread-,crust burnt2 cover close1 and stew this for six ,hours1 and serve it hot4 ,you may garnish with ,lemon sliced4 ,to dress the ,liver and ,crow of an ,hog4 ,from ,mrs4 ,johnson in ,devereux-,court4 ,however this ,dish may seem dispiseable1 yet if it is well dresed1 few of the savoury ,dishes exceed it4 ,the ,liver and ,crow of an ,hog1 with the ,sweet-,breads1 should be used presently after the ,hog is kill'd1 and the ,liver cut in ,lumps1 twice as big as a ,walnut1 and not in thin ,pieces as most do2 for then they will become hard in the ,dressing4 ,the ,crow must likewise be cut in ,slips about the breadth of two ,fingers1 and so must the ,sweet-,breads2 then parboil the ,pieces of ,liver1 and make a thick ,batter of ,flour1 ,water and ,eggs1 mixing a little ,salt with it1 and prepare some red ,sage shred very fine2 some grated ,bread1 and some ,pepper beaten3 mix these together1 and when you have some ,butter1 or ,lard1 very hot in your ,frying-,pan1 dip the ,crow and ,sweet-,bread in the ,batter1 and immediately dip your ,pieces in the ,mixture of ,bread1 ,sage1 c4 and throw them into the ,pan4 ,when these are enough1 lay them to drain before the ,fire1 and then dip the ,bits of ,liver into the ,batter2 and after that1 into the crumb'd ,bread1 and give them a turn or two in the ,pan1 over a quick ,fire3 then drain them like the others1 and serve them hot with ,butter and ,mustard4 ,sea-,larks or ,oysters1 roasted on ,spits or ,skewers4 ,from the same4 ,take large ,oysters1 and wash them from ,dirt2 then dip them in ,batter made with ,milk1 ,flour1 ,powder of ,mace1 some ,eggs and a little ,pepper2 then dip them again in ,crumbs of ,bread grated1 and some ,mace powder'd1 and put them on a fine ,skewer1 broad-side to broad-side1 or upon ,silver ,lark ,spits2 and when they are at the ,fire1 flour them well1 and baste them with ,butter till they are enough4 ,prepare for them1 while they are ,roasting1 the following ,sauce3 ,take ,crumbs of ,bread1 a little ,pepper and ,salt1 and a ,blade or two of ,mace with a little ,nutmeg1 and boil them in some of the ,oyster-,liquor till the ,bread is tender and like a ,pulp1 and tastes well of the ,spice2 then put in a ,glass of ,white ,wine1 and mix it well1 and serve it hot1 in a ,plate1 with the roasted ,oysters over the ,sauce4 ,a ,shoulder of ,mutton or ,lamb1 roasted with a ,farce of ,oysters4 ,from ,mr4 ,norman1 late ,cook in ,norfolk4 ,take a ,shoulder of ,mutton or ,lamb1 of the smallest size1 and slip up the ,skin almost to the ,leg-,joint2 then cut the ,flesh from the ,bone1 on the upper side1 and mince it very small1 take part of that1 and as many ,oysters parboil'd without their ,fins1 and chopt a little2 then have some ,mace powder'd1 and a little ,salt and ,pepper1 with some grated ,lemon-,peel1 and some grated ,bread1 with the ,yolk of an ,egg1 or two2 and make this into a ,paste1 and lay it into the ,places where the ,flesh was taken out2 and you may add to this ,paste a little ,fat of ,bacon cut small1 or a little ,butter4 ,then skewer the ,skin on all sides1 over the ,farced ,meat1 and lard the ,skin and the fleshy ,parts below with ,lemon-,peel1 and some will lard in ,lemon ,thyme likewise4 ,then fix it on a ,spit with ,skewers1 and roast it1 well basted with ,butter and well floured4 ,the ,sauce for this should be stew'd ,oysters1 some ,mace1 stew'd ,mushrooms1 a little ,gravey1 and some ,white-,wine1 with ,crumbs of ,bread2 then serve it hot1 garnish'd with sliced ,lemon1 and ,red ,beet-,root pickled and sliced4 ,stew'd ,veal1 with white ,sauce2 from the same4 ,take some ,lean of a ,leg of ,veal1 and cut it in thick ,slices1 then stew them in ,water and a little ,salt1 with some ,mace1 and a little ,nutmeg1 and a ,bunch of sweet ,herbs4 ,when they are almost stew'd enough with the ,gravey in them1 put to the ,liquor they were stew'd in1 a ,glass or two of ,white ,wine1 and a little ,lemon ,juice1 or ,orange ,juice1 with a little ,mushroom ,gravey1 or ,liquor of stew'd ,mushrooms4 ,when this is done1 have some ,mushroom ,buttons1 that have been stew'd white in their own ,liquor1 and ,spice1 with a ,bay-,leaf2 then strain the ,liquor1 and put some in the ,sauce3 and when it is hot1 put some thick ,cream to it1 with the ,mushrooms2 and then serve it hot with a ,garnish of sliced ,lemon4 ,hard ,pease-,soup4 ,from the same4 ,there are many ways of making ,pease-,soup4 ,in great ,families it is sometimes made of ,beef1 but a ,leg of ,pork is much preferable2 and in smaller ,families the ,bones of ,pork1 as they are called4 ,and the ,shin and ,hock of a ,leg of ,pork1 after they have made ,sausages1 may be had at the ,sausage-,houses3 these boil'd for a long time1 will afford a strong ,jelly ,broth1 but they are hard to be met with4 ,however1 when they are to be had1 you have the ,directions for a ,broth4 ,then pass the ,broth1 hot1 through a ,sieve1 and put into it half a ,pint of slit ,pease to a ,quart of ,liquor2 or a ,quart of whole ,pease to three ,quarts of ,liquor4 ,the ,difference between one and the other1 is1 the slit ,pease will open in the ,liquor1 when we boil it1 and the other ought to be broken through a ,cullender1 when they are boil'd3 but the slit ,pease are the best2 and when you put them into the ,liquor to boil1 add to every ,quart of ,liquor as much ,sallery as you think proper1 cut small2 some powder of dry'd ,mint1 some powder of dry'd sweet ,marjoram1 some ,pepper1 and some ,salt1 to your mind1 and let these boil till the ,sallery is tender4 ,this is to be done1 if we boil a ,leg of ,pork1 after the ,pork is out of the ,pot2 but if we make the ,soup from the ,bones1 boil these ,ingredients afterwards in the ,liquor4 ,when you serve it1 put a ,french ,role in the middle of the ,dish1 and garnish the ,border of the ,dish with rasp'd ,bread sifted4 ,some put in ,all-spice powder'd1 which is very agreeable3 and one might add the ,leaves of white ,beets1 ,and in serving1 put in toasted ,bread1 cut in ,dice2 but the last is out of fashion4 ,to make green ,pease-,pottage1 with ,milk4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,quart of green ,pease shell'd1 and boil three ,quarts or two ,quarts of ,milk1 as you please to have them thick with ,pease2 and add some ,pepper largely beaten1 a little ,salt1 some dry'd ,mint1 and sweet ,marjoram in powder1 and a little whole ,spice beaten4 ,boil these together till the ,cream rises1 and then stir it1 and serve it hot4 ,n4,b4 ,the ,pease should be boil'd first1 if there is any opportunity2 and for that ,reason1 if when we have a ,dish of ,pease1 we leave any1 they may be put into the ,milk1 and boil'd the ,morning following2 and indeed it is the best to have the ,pease boil'd first4 ,to make an artificial ,crab or ,lobster4 ,from ,mr4 ,f4 of ,buckingham4 ,i ,suppose you have by you the large ,shells of ,sea-,crabs clean'd2 then take part of a ,calf's ,liver1 boil it and mince it very small1 and a little ,anchovy ,liquor1 and but very little1 to give it the ,fish-taste4 ,mix it well with a little ,lemon ,juice1 some ,pepper1 and some ,salt1 with a little ,oil1 if you like it1 and fill the ,shells with it2 and then the outside ,parts of the ,liver1 being a little hard1 will feel to the ,mouth like the ,claws of the ,crab broken and pick'd1 and the inner ,parts will be soft and tender1 like the ,body of a ,crab4 ,one may serve this cold1 and it will deceive a good ,judge1 if you do not put too much of the ,anchovy ,liquor into it4 ,it is very good cold2 but if you would have it hot1 take the following ,receipt4 ,to make artificial hot butter'd ,sea-,crabs4 ,have the great ,shells of ,crabs clean1 and prepare some ,liver1 as before2 or it you cannot get ,calf's ,liver1 get a ,lamb's ,liver1 or a young ,sheep's ,liver will do tolerably well4 ,boil these1 and shred them as directed before1 and put a little ,anchovy ,liquor to them2 then add a little ,white ,wine1 some ,pepper and ,salt at pleasure1 and some other ,spice at discretion1 with ,butter necessary to make it mellow1 over a gentle ,fire1 or a little ,sallet ,oil1 if you like ,oil4 ,then add a little ,lemon ,juice in the ,shells1 stirring the ,mixture together4 ,then serve them up hot with ,lemon sliced4 ,to make artificial ,crabs4 ,from ,m4 ,de la ,port of ,lyons in ,france4 ,take some of the ,white of a roasted or boil'd ,chicken's ,breast1 and shred it very small2 then add some ,roots of ,potatoes boil'd and beat into ,pulp4 ,mix these together1 and grate a little ,lemon-,peel upon it1 and add a little ,anchovy ,liquor to it1 with some ,oil2 and put a little ,lemon-juice to it1 or ,vinegar1 with some ,pepper and ,salt1 serve it upon ,sippits1 garnish'd with sliced ,lemon4 ,these may be butter'd in ,shells as the ,former1 but the first is rather the best4 ,to make artificial ,lobsters4 ,from the same4 ,practise the same ,method with either of the former2 and to imitate the ,tail of the ,lobster1 put in the ,tails of ,shrimps1 ,buntings1 ,prawns or ,cray-fish2 the last cut in pieces1 and serve them either upon ,sippets in a ,plate1 or in the large ,shell of the ,lobster4 ,n4,b4 ,this is a sort of ,salmy1 or ,salmy-,gundy1 as they call it in ,england2 but is very much like the ,thing we want3 and ,i think1 if the ,shrimps1 or others1 were put into the first1 it would make it better than putting in the ,anchovy ,liquor2 but if they are to imitate a ,crab1 they must1 7i4e4 the ,shrimps or ,prawns7 be chopt very small4 ,to imitate ,cherry-,brandy1 without ,cherries1 very ,good4 ,take a clean ,spirit1 or some good ,french ,brandy1 one ,gallon1 and infuse in it the ,tops of ,laurel1 one good handfull till it tastes like the ,kernels of ,cherries2 then put in a quantity of ,mulberry ,syrup1 enough to colour it1 and make it pleasant to the ,taste4 ,a good ,judge will not find the difference between the ,right and the ,wrong4 ,n4,b4 ,when the ,brandy is strong enough of the ,laurel-,buds1 pour it off4 ,to make ,cherry ,brandy4 ,from ,mr4 ,cent-,livre4 ,take black ,cherries1 when they are at the cheapest1 and pulling them from the ,stalks1 put them into a ,cask of ,brandy1 a ,pound to each ,quart of ,brandy1 and one ,pound of fine ,sugar to each ,gallon4 ,let it stand for some time1 and draw it off4 ,it will be very rich4 ,to make ,ratafia4 ,from the same4 ,take the ,kernels of ,apricots1 to do it in the highest way1 about one hundred and fifty1 and bruise them a little2 then put them into three or four ,quarts of ,brandy1 and let them steep four or five ,days3 then strain them off1 and add as much fine ,sugar powder'd1 as will make it sweet to your ,taste4 ,if you find that the ,brandy is too strong of the ,kernels1 put some more ,brandy to it before you sweeten it4 ,memorandum1 ,if you cannot get ,apricot or ,peach-,stones1 enough for your use1 you may use the ,kernels of ,plum-,stones1 ,cherry-,stones1 or ,prunes1 and they will make little difference1 in great quantities4 ,break the ,shells1 and put in ,shells and all4 ,to make ,artificial ,ratafia4 ,to a ,gallon of ,spirits or ,brandy1 put in two handfuls of the ,buds of young ,laurel-,branches2 infuse this till the ,liquor is of a taste as you would have it3 then pour off the ,liquor1 and sweeten it to your ,fancy with fine ,sugar powder'd4 ,this is a way that a ,distiller1 who is dead1 practised a long while1 as well as the making of ,gin1 or ,geneva ,brandy1 with infusing the ,tops of the ,juniper ,plant in common ,spirits4 ,these ,i told him of1 and it is now at my own disposal1 and therefore give it to the ,world4 ,the ,ratafia tastes exactly as if the ,kernels of ,apricot or ,plum-,stones had been used4 ,to make ,salmy1 or with us ,salmy-,gundy4 ,from ,lady ,m4 ,take the ,breast of a ,turkey1 a ,chicken1 or the ,lean of some ,veal that has been roasted rather than boil'd2 but if that happens1 it will still do4 ,but however it is1 take none of the ,skin1 nor any ,fat4 ,mince this very small about half a ,pound1 and then take off the ,skin of a pickled ,herring1 and mince the ,flesh of it very small1 or for want of that1 cut the ,flesh of some ,anchovys very small2 then cut a large ,onion small1 an ,apple or two as small as the rest4 ,mix these ,meats together and laying them in little ,heaps1 three on a ,plate1 let some whole ,anchovys curl'd or upright1 in the ,middle1 and garnish with sliced ,lemon1 ,capers and other ,pickles1 with red ,beet-,roots pickled and sliced4 ,this to be served cold2 and when you eat it1 use ,oil1 ,vinegar1 and a little ,mustard4 ,to serve up pickled ,herrings4 ,from the same4 ,take large pickled ,herrings1 take off the ,skin2 then take the ,flesh from the ,bones1 on each side1 all in one piece1 crossing them every half-inch4 ,then lay the ,parts next the ,head1 in the middle of the ,plate1 spreading their ,bodies to the outside1 like a ,star1 garnishing them with the ,roots of red ,beets sliced1 ,lemon sliced1 and ,berberries pickled4 ,this is commonly eaten with ,vinegar1 and ,bread and ,butter1 but ,onion and ,pepper is sometimes used4 ,marmalade of ,peaches4 ,from the same4 ,take ,peaches1 well grown and almost ripe2 pare them1 and take their ,flesh clean from the ,stones4 ,lay them with a little ,water into a ,stew-,pan1 and add three ,quarters of their weight of fine ,sugar powder'd4 ,let this stew till the ,peaches are tender1 and then mash them with a ,spoon1 letting them boil gently all the while1 till the ,whole becomes thick1 almost like a ,paste2 then take it out1 and cool it in a ,china ,dish1 or earthen glazed ,pan2 and when it is cold1 put it into ,glasses1 and cover them over with white ,paper4 ,white ,peach-,tarts4 ,from the same4 ,make some ,coffins of sweet ,paste1 and when they are gently baked1 and cold1 fill them with the above-mention'd ,marmalade of ,peaches1 and serve them4 ,apricots preserv'd for ,tarts4 ,from the same4 ,take ,apricots of the largest kind1 ,when they begin to turn to ,ripeness1 pare them and discharge them from the ,stones4 ,cut them in ,halves1 and stew them with a little ,water1 and their weight of fine ,sugar powder'd4 ,boil these gently over a clear ,charcoal ,fire1 till the ,liquor becomes of the ,consistence of a ,jelly1 and the ,apricots are clear4 ,then when they are cool1 put them up in glazed ,gallypots1 or in ,glasses4 ,if you use them for ,tarts1 put them in ,coffins of sweet ,paste1 and cover them1 and put them in the ,oven1 till they are hot through4 ,then serve them with double-refined ,sugar grated over them4 ,these may be either serv'd hot or cold4 ,the ,jelly of this kind1 in the ,glasses1 may be serv'd as a ,sweetmeat in a ,desert4 ,memorandum1 ,if1 when these ,fruits are ripe1 you can have any ,apples near ripe1 pare them1 and slice them free from the ,core1 and stew them in as much ,water as will cover them1 and their weight in fine ,sugar1 till by boiling and stirring1 the whole becomes of a ,jelly2 then in this1 when it is clear1 stew your ,apricots1 or ,peaches1 till they are what you desire4 ,n4,b4 ,you may always colour these with ,syrup of ,mulberries1 which gives no additional ,taste4 ,plums to make ,marmalade of4 ,from the same4 ,there are several sorts of ,plums1 which are fit for this use4 ,and though they differ in colour1 that is1 some red and some white1 yet the ,marmalade made of any of them will be white1 for the ,colour is only in the ,skin2 and that if it was to be used1 could give no ,tincture2 but in our ,case1 we do not want it4 ,the ,sorts are either the ,bonum ,magnum1 as it is call'd1 which is a large1 long1 red ,plum1 with a ,pulp very tender1 but sour1 when it is raw from the ,tree4 ,another is a large ,plum1 rather yellowish than white1 when it is ripe1 and of the former ,shape1 like an ,egg1 which is called by some the ,egg-,plum2 but more particularly the white ,holland ,plum1 and is so called by the ,gardeners4 ,these two have a ,flesh and ,juice much like one another1 and make a fine ,shew in a ,dish by way of ,desert2 but are in my ,opinion only fit for stewing4 ,however1 the ,skins will part easily from 'em1 when they are ripe1 and they both quit the ,stone freely4 ,take these and peel them1 and divide them2 then put them in a little ,water and their weight of fine ,sugar1 made into a ,syrup1 over a gentle ,fire3 put them in when the ,liquor is only warm1 and when they are cover'd with the ,syrup1 stew them gently1 if you would preserve them in their ,shape2 and put them1 with the ,syrup1 into ,glasses as soon as they are clear1 or else mash them into the ,syrup1 and let them boil till they become like a ,paste2 keeping all stirring while they are over the ,fire1 or else they will burn to the ,pan4 ,this ,marmalade is good to be serv'd in ,glasses as a ,sweet-meat in a ,desert1 or to be put into ,coffins for ,tarts1 or to be brought upon the ,table in ,saucers among the other ,sweet-meats in a ,desert4 ,to stew ,cucumbers4 ,from the ,devil-,tavern1 ,fleet-street4 ,take a dozen large green ,cucumbers1 that are not too full of ,seed2 pare them1 and slice them2 then take two large ,onions1 and shred them indifferently small4 ,put these in a ,sauce-,pan1 and set them over the ,fire to stew1 with as much ,salt as you think convenient2 stir them now and then1 till they are tender1 and then pour them into a ,cullender to drain from the ,water1 and are as dry as possible you can make them2 then flour them1 and put some ,pepper to them4 ,after this1 burn some ,butter in a ,frying-,pan2 and when it is very hot1 put in your ,cucumbers1 and stir them continually till they are brown2 then put to them about a ,gill of ,claret2 and when that is well mix'd with them1 serve them hot1 under roast ,mutton or ,lamb2 or else1 serve them on a ,plate1 upon ,sippits fry'd and dip'd in ,mutton or ,beef ,gravey4 ,to ,farce ,cucumbers4 ,from the same4 ,take large ,cucumbers and pare them1 then scoop out all the ,seeds1 first cutting off one ,end1 then prepare the following ,farce for them4 ,take the ,hearts of some ,cabbage-,lettuce stew'd tender in ,salt and ,water1 drain them well1 and chop them small1 and cut some ,onion very fine1 shred a little ,parsley that has been boil'd tender1 and a ,mushroom pickled2 and add a little ,all-,spice finely powder'd1 and some ,pepper1 a little ,salt1 and some ,fat of ,bacon chopt small4 ,mix these well together1 with the ,yolk of an ,egg or two1 according to your ,quantity1 and stuff the ,cucumbers full of it4 ,then tie the ,ends1 that were cut off close1 with ,packthread1 and stew them in ,water and ,salt till they are tender2 then drain them and flour them1 and fry them brown in ,hogs-,lard very hot1 and let them drain2 then take off the ,threads that hold them together1 and lay them in your ,dish1 and pour the following ,sauce over them3 viz4 ,take ,gravey well season'd1 and as much ,claret2 boil these together1 with some ,lemon-,peel1 and ,all-,spice2 and thicken this ,sauce with burnt ,butter4 ,these are good to be serv'd with ,mutton ,cutlets1 as well as alone4 ,to make a ,shropshire ,pye4 ,take a couple of ,rabbits1 and cut them in pieces2 season them well with ,pepper and ,salt2 then cut some pieces of fat ,pork1 and season them in like manner4 ,lay these into your ,crust1 with some pieces of ,butter1 upon the bottom ,crust1 and close your ,pye4 ,then pour in half a ,pint of ,water1 and red ,wine mixt1 and bake it4 ,some will grate the best part of a ,nutmeg upon the ,meat1 before they close the ,pye1 which is a very good way4 ,this must be serv'd hot4 ,to make a ,shropshire ,pye1 another way4 ,from ,lady ,h4 ,take ,rabbits and ,pork1 cut and season'd as above2 then make a ,farce of the ,rabbits ,livers parboil'd1 and shred small2 some fat ,bacon shred small1 some sweet ,marjoram powder'd1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 and made into a ,paste1 with the ,yolks of ,eggs beaten2 and then make this into ,balls1 and lay them in your ,pye1 amongst the ,meat1 at proper ,distances4 ,then take the ,bottoms of three or four ,artichokes boil'd tender1 and cut in ,dice2 and lay these likewise amongst the ,meat4 ,put in also some ,coxcombs blanch'd2 then close your ,pye1 and pour in as much ,wine and ,water as you think convenient4 ,bake it1 and serve it hot4 ,to make artificial ,coxcombs4 ,from ,mr4 ,renaud4 ,take ,tripe1 without any ,fat1 and with a sharp ,knife pare away the fleshy part1 leaving only the brawny or horny part about the thickness of a ,cock's ,comb4 ,then1 with a ,jagging-,iron1 cut ,pieces out of it1 in the shape of ,cocks ,combs1 and the remaining ,parts between1 may be cut to pieces1 and used in ,pyes1 and serve every whit as well as ,cocks ,combs3 but those cut in form1 please the ,eye best2 and1 as ,mr4 ,renaud observes1 the ,eye must be pleased1 before we can taste any thing with ,pleasure4 ,and therefore1 in ,fricassees we should put those which are cut according to ,art4 ,calf's ,liver stuffed and roasted4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,calf's ,liver1 the ,morning it is kill'd1 and make a hole in it1 with a large ,knife1 to run length-ways1 but not quite through it2 then make a farced ,meat1 or stuffing for it1 of some of the ,liver parboil'd1 and some ,fat of ,bacon cut very fine1 some fresh ,lemon-,peel grated1 some sweet ,herbs powder'd1 and some butter'd ,eggs1 as much as may be necessary1 to mix with the other ,ingredients2 then add some grated ,bread1 and some ,spices finely beat1 with some ,pepper and ,salt3 then fill that part that you cut in the ,liver with this farced ,meat2 and cut other ,places if you will1 and fill them likewise4 ,you may then lard the ,liver1 if you will1 with ,bacon ,fat1 and roast it1 flouring it very well1 and basting it with ,butter1 till it is enough4 ,but it is reckon'd rather better by some1 when the ,liver is stuffed1 to brush it over with the ,yolk of an ,egg1 and strew upon it raspings of ,bread sifted1 some ,flour1 some dry'd sweet ,herbs powder'd1 and some ,spice2 and then enclose the ,whole with the ,caul of ,veal2 so roast it1 and it will make an excellent ,dish4 ,to be served hot1 either with ,venison ,sauce1 made of ,claret boil'd with ,cinnamon1 and sweeten'd with ,sugar1 or with ,gravey ,sauce1 with a little ,wine in it4 ,to roast a ,calf's ,liver1 another way4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,n4 ,take a ,calf's ,liver1 as before1 and stuff it as above1 only with this ,alteration in the ,stuffing4 ,shred some ,veal-,suet very small1 and add to that some grated ,bread1 ,spice1 and dry'd sweet ,herbs finely powder'd1 with some ,currans plump'd1 and a little ,salt2 then make this into a ,paste1 with some ,eggs beaten2 and when you have stuffed what ,parts you please1 with the ,mixture1 roast it1 basting it well with ,butter1 and strewing on1 now and then1 some of the above ,mixture1 as far as it can be in powder1 or admit of strewing4 ,then serve it hot1 with melted ,butter and ,lemon-,juice1 or ,verjuice1 and garnish with ,lemon sliced1 and pickled ,berberries4 ,cream ,custard4 ,from ,lady ,h4 ,boil a ,quart of ,cream1 with some grated ,nutmeg1 and a little ,mace finely powder'd2 then beat the ,yolks of twelve ,eggs1 with half as many ,whites1 with a little ,salt3 then add a spoonfull of ,sack1 and one of ,orange-,flower ,water1 or ,rose-,water3 then put about six ,ounces of fine ,loaf-,sugar beaten fine1 and well sifted2 and mix all together1 when the ,cream is not too hot2 then pass it through a fine ,sieve1 and bake it in ,china ,cups4 ,to imitate the fat ,livers of ,capons roasted4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,calf's ,liver fresh1 and cut it in pieces1 in the shape of large ,capons ,livers4 ,dip every one in ,flour1 and spit them on ,lark-,spits1 the flat ,sides against each other1 but minding to put between them a slice of fat ,bacon4 ,roast them1 and baste them well with ,butter1 and drudging them often with rasped ,bread sifted1 and flour with a little ,salt4 ,when they are enough1 serve them with the following ,sauce4 ,take two or three ,necks of ,fowls1 if you have them1 or else1 a little clean ,beef ,gravey1 a little ,water1 a little ,ale1 or small ,beer2 an ,onion and some ,pepper and ,salt3 then strain off the ,sauce1 and pour it into the ,dish before you lay in your ,livers1 and garnish with ,slices of ,lemon1 sliced ,beet-,roots pickled1 and sifted raspings of ,bread4 ,these do well likewise to be laid about a roasted ,chicken4 ,to make ,pound ,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,pound of double refined ,loaf-,sugar beaten and sifted2 then beat eight ,eggs and stir the ,sugar in them2 then melt a ,pound of ,butter1 and stir that in with the rest1 and then stir in a ,pound of ,flour1 some ,mace finely beat1 with some ,nutmeg grated1 and some ,sack1 and ,orange-,flower ,water2 beat these all together for an hour and a half till all is well mix'd2 then stir in some ,currans plump'd a little4 ,to make good the name of the ,cake1 there should be a ,pound of a sort4 ,some put about a quarter of a ,pound of ,caraway ,comfits2 but every way is good4 ,bake these in little ,pans1 in1 a gentle ,oven1 and when they are quite cold1 turn them out1 and keep them in oaken ,boxes1 with ,papers between them1 in a dry ,place4 ,to make a ,six ,hour ,pudding4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,pound of ,beef ,suet1 pick'd clean from the ,skins and bloody ,parts1 and chop it pretty small2 then take a ,pound of ,raisins of the ,sun1 and stone them2 then shred them1 and mix them together3 add to them a large spoonfull of ,flour1 and six ,eggs beaten1 a little ,lisbon ,sugar1 some ,salt1 and some ,cloves1 and ,mace1 beaten4 ,then mix these well together1 and make two ,puddings of them1 tied up in ,cloths well flour'd2 boil them six ,hours1 and serve them with ,sugar and ,butter in ,cups4 ,this will cut very firm1 and not taste at all greasy4 ,and if you save one cold1 cut it in ,slices1 and lay it upon a ,grid-,iron1 under ,beef while it is roasting1 and it eats very well with ,beef ,gravey hot4 ,to make a ,venison ,pasty4 ,from the same4 ,take six ,pounds of ,cambridge potted ,butter1 and rub it into a peck of ,flour1 but do not rub in your ,butter too small2 and then make it into a ,paste1 with ,water3 then butter your ,pan well1 and when your ,paste is roll'd out thick1 lay it in the ,pan1 preserving only enough for the ,lid4 ,the ,cambridge ,butter is mention'd1 because it is a little ,salt2 or else1 if you use fresh ,butter1 there should be some ,salt put into the ,crust4 ,when that is prepar'd1 take a side of ,venison1 and take off the ,skin1 as close as can be1 and take the ,bones out quite free from the ,flesh2 then cut this through length-ways1 and cut it cross again1 to make four ,pieces of it2 then strew these ,pieces with ,pepper and ,salt1 well mix'd1 at discretion3 and after having laid a little of the ,pepper and ,salt at the bottom of the ,pasty1 with some pieces of ,butter2 then lay in your pieces of ,venison1 so that at each ,corner the ,fat may be placed2 then lay some ,butter over it1 in pieces1 and close your ,pasty4 ,when it is ready for the ,oven1 pour in about a ,quart of ,water1 and let it bake from five a ,clock in the ,morning till one in the ,afternoon1 in a hot ,oven4 ,and at the same time put the ,skin and the ,bones broken1 with ,water enough to cover them1 and some ,pepper and ,salt into a glaz'd earthen ,pan1 into the same ,oven2 and when you draw the ,pasty1 pour off as much as you think proper1 of the clear ,liquor1 into your ,pasty4 ,serve it hot1 but it is properly a side-board ,dish1 and the ,carver ought always to take the ,services1 of the ,pasty1 from the ,corners where the ,fat is1 to do honour to the ,master and his ,park4 ,to roast a ,hog's ,harslet4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,hog's ,harslet1 as soon as the ,hog is kill'd1 lay aside the ,lights1 and cut the ,liver in thick ,slices1 and the ,heart in thinner ,pieces2 then take some of the ,crow of an ,hog1 and cut that in ,pieces equal with the rest4 ,then take the ,sweetbreads1 with some of the ,sticking-,pieces1 as they are called1 and some ,slices of fat ,bacon4 ,dip these into ,eggs beaten1 and then dip them again into grated ,bread1 some red ,sage chopt small1 and some ,pepper and ,salt1 with a little sweet ,marjoram1 or sweet ,basil powder'd2 then put the ,pieces1 broad-side one to another1 upon a small ,spit1 always observing to put the ,bacon next the ,heart1 and the ,crow next the ,liver2 then wrap them up in a ,cawl of ,veal1 and roast it4 ,put these ,pieces as close as you can together1 and when it is done1 serve it with some melted ,butter and ,mustard1 with a little ,lemon-,juice4 ,to make ,cream of ,raspberries4 ,from ,mrs4 ,heron4 ,take thick ,cream1 a ,quart1 and put to that1 either some ,raspberry ,syrup1 or some ,jamm of ,raspberries2 but the ,syrup will mix much easier with it3 however1 the ,jamm of ,raspberries is accounted the best by some1 because that has the ,seeds in it4 ,but ,i think1 that ,syrup of ,raspberries is better1 because all is smooth1 and the ,cream tastes sufficiently of the ,raspberries4 ,one must serve this with the ,desert4 ,but if you use the ,jamm of ,raspberries1 you must beat it with some of the ,cream a good while before it will mix2 and then put it to the other ,cream1 and stir it a little1 and it will mix4 ,artificial ,cream1 to be mix'd with any ,preserves of ,fruit4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,s4 of ,salisbury4 ,take a ,quart of ,milk1 and when it is boil'd1 put in the ,yolks of eight ,eggs well beaten with the ,whites of six4 ,put not in the ,eggs while the ,milk is too hot1 lest they curdle4 ,then1 when they are well mix'd1 set them over a gentle ,fire1 and stir them all the while2 and when you perceive them to be thick enough1 put into them what quantity you please of ,syrup1 or ,jamms of ,apricots1 ,peaches1 or ,plums1 or ,cherries1 or ,oranges1 ,lemons1 or other ,fruits1 stirring them well till they partake enough of the preserv'd ,fruit's taste1 and then serve them up1 in ,china ,basons1 cold1 in a ,desert1 without any ,ornament of ,flowers4 ,to make ,sweet-meat ,cream4 ,from the same4 ,take either clean ,cream from the ,dairy1 or else make the foregoing artificial ,cream1 and slice preserv'd ,apricots1 or preserv'd ,peaches or ,plums1 into it1 having first sweeten'd the ,cream well1 with fine ,loaf ,sugar1 or with the same ,syrup they were preserv'd in4 ,mix these well1 and serve them separately1 cold1 in ,china ,basons4 ,to embalm ,pidgeons4 ,from a ,lady in ,suffolk4 ,this ,receipt was communicated in this manner3 viz4 ,sir1 ,i have seen the ,method you propose to embalm ,partridges1 in your ,farmer's ,monthly ,director1 and have tried it so far1 that ,i have kept them1 done that way1 a ,month4 ,i had then a mind to try what ,i could do with ,pidgeons2 and as soon as they were kill'd1 ,i was diligent to take out all the ,blood1 and wash them1 and dry them1 as is directed1 with warm ,cloths1 both inside and outside4 ,i then laid them in ,pans of earthen ,ware1 and cover'd them with melted ,butter1 which kept them very well1 for a long time4 ,i wash'd the ,necks of the ,pidgeons1 when the ,crops were taken out1 with ,vinegar1 and dry'd them4 ,then ,i used them as you direct for ,partridges1 and they kept sweet a ,month1 fit for ,roasting2 and they eat the same as if they were fresh kill'd4 ,this ,i send you word of1 because you may know how far your embalming of ,partridges has taken ,effect1 and to tell you1 the ,lady who told you of it1 understood very well what she did4 ,as for my part1 ,i used fresh ,butter2 but you did not say whether it should be salt or fresh1 and ,i try'd ,pidgeons1 because they are ,fowls which decay sooner than any4 ,if you think this worth your ,notice1 ,i am1 ,your humble ,servant4 ,s4 ,f4 ,to preserve ,pidgeons another way4 ,from the same4 ,take ,pidgeons fresh kill'd2 wash them from the ,blood1 and take off the ,flesh1 as clean as you can from the ,bones1 and discharge all the ,inside3 then season them well with ,pepper and ,salt1 with a little ,mace and ,nutmeg grated1 and boil them in equal quantities of ,vinegar and ,water1 till they are very tender with ,cloves1 or other ,spice1 as you like1 and if you add a ,bay-leaf or two it will be better4 ,when your ,pidgeons are boil'd tender enough1 take them from the ,fire1 and when the ,liquor is cold1 lay your ,pidgeons in a large ,gally-pot1 and pour the ,liquor upon them1 and cover them up close with ,leather1 and they will keep a long time4 ,an ,attempt to preserve ,cucumbers1 for ,stewing1 in the ,winter4 ,from the same4 ,sir1 ,you have often told me1 that you was a ,lover of ,cucumbers1 and more especially stew'd1 than any other way2 which ,i find many others of my ,friends come into4 ,i propose1 that you should pare and slice ,cucumbers as usual for stewing2 and then with a little ,salt and ,pepper1 with their own ,liquor stew them in a ,sauce-,pan till they are a little tender2 then pour them into a ,cullendar1 and when they are drain'd well from the ,liquor1 boil some ,white ,wine1 with ,water1 half one1 and half the other1 with whole ,pepper2 and when the ,liquor is cold1 put the ,cucumbers into a ,gally-pot1 and pour the ,liquor over them3 and1 if you put a little ,oil upon the ,liquor1 ,i am persuaded they will keep several ,months4 ,i wish it may be try'd1 for ,i have thought of it2 and according to my ,judgment it may be fit to use1 any time in the ,winter1 for stewing4 ,when you use these1 pour away all the ,liquor1 and let them pass through a ,saucepan with a little ,salt and ,water1 till they are tender1 as you would have them2 then drain them again in a ,cullendar1 and fry them brown1 with burnt ,butter1 first flouring them1 and a little ,pepper2 and when they are enough1 put in a ,glass of ,claret1 or a ,glass of ,white ,wine4 ,i am1 ,your humble ,servant4 ,s4 ,f4 ,pippin ,tart4 ,from the same4 ,cut some golden ,pippins in halves1 pare them1 and take out the ,cores2 then stew them with half their weight of ,sugar1 and some ,lemon-,peel1 cut in thin long ,slices1 and ,water enough to cover them4 ,when they are clear1 they are enough2 then set them by to cool1 and strain off the ,liquor1 or ,syrup1 and put that in a ,pan to stew gently1 with some candy'd ,lemon and ,orange-,peel1 in slices2 then have a sweet ,paste prepared in a ,dish1 and lay in your ,pippins1 and pour the ,syrup1 and ,sweetmeats1 over them1 and bake them in a gentle ,oven2 and when it is hot1 pour some ,cream either pure or artificial over them1 and serve them to the ,table4 ,to ,pickle ,marygold-,flowers4 ,from ,mr4 ,t4 of ,buckingham4 ,though the ,marygold ,flower is of old date in ,pottage2 yet it continues still its stand among the useful things of the ,kitchen1 and cannot more easily be worn out1 according to the custom of the ,country1 when the ,country ,folks make ,broth4 ,mint with ,pease1 ,fennel with ,mackarel1 and such like1 cannot be forgot4 ,and as the ,marygold-,flowers are used in ,porridge1 ,i send the ,receipt how to pickle them4 ,strip the ,flower-leaves off1 when you have gather'd the ,flowers1 at ,noon1 or in the ,heat of the ,day1 and boil some ,salt and ,water2 and when that is cold1 put your ,marygold-,flower ,leaves in a ,gallypot1 and pour the ,salt and ,water upon them2 then shut them up close till you use them1 and they will be of a fine ,colour1 and much fitter for ,porridge than those that are dry'd4 ,seed-,cake4 ,from the same4 ,make some ,paste of fine ,flour1 such as you would make for light ,bread1 with ,yeast4 ,take five ,pounds of this ,dough1 ,without ,salt in it1 and cover it before a ,fire for half an ,hour1 to make it rise2 then take two ,pounds and a half of fresh ,butter melted1 and five ,eggs beaten well with half a ,pound of fine ,lisbon ,sugar4 ,mix these well with your ,paste1 and work it till it is as light as possible2 and when your ,oven is very hot and clean1 strew into your ,cake a ,pound of smooth ,caraway ,comfits2 then put some ,butter on the ,sides and ,bottom of your ,pan1 and put in your ,cake1 and one ,hour and a quarter will bake it4 ,when it comes out of the ,oven1 cover it with ,cloths of ,linnen till it is cold2 then put it1 the next ,day1 a little while into an ,oven4 ,n4,b4 ,you must be sure to put in the ,sugar after the ,butter4 ,one may put on an ,iceing if one will4 ,to make ,orange-,chips4 ,from the same4 ,take some fresh ,oranges about ,february1 and pare them very thin2 they are then very cheap4 ,boil them in several ,waters till they are tender1 and have lost their ,bitterness2 then put them into cold ,water for twelve ,hours or more4 ,then make a ,syrup for them in the following manner4 ,take about their weight of fine ,sugar powder'd1 and mix it with as much ,water as it will take in1 or a little more4 ,boil this1 and scum it well2 then drain the ,orange-,peels from the ,water they were steep'd in1 and put them in a glaz'd earthen ,vessel1 and then pour the boiling hot ,syrup upon them1 letting them remain so till the ,day following2 then pour the ,syrup from them1 and boil it afresh1 and pour it on a second time1 and repeat the same work till your ,peels are very clear1 and the ,syrup very thick2 and then dry them in a ,stove1 and they will be fit for use1 in the ,condition we buy them4 ,one may candy ,lemon-,chips after the same manner4 ,to make ,hartshorn-,jelly4 ,from the same4 ,take six ,ounces of ,harts-horn ,shavings2 put them into two ,quarts of ,water1 and two or three bits of ,lemon-,peel1 and set this in a ,sand-heat1 for six or eight ,hours1 or let them infuse about ten ,hours upon hot ,embers4 ,then boil it briskly1 and when you find it will jelly1 as you may do1 by taking out a little of the ,liquor in a ,spoon1 and cooling it2 then strain it off1 and add to it about half a ,pound of double-refined ,sugar powder'd very fine2 about a ,gill of ,sack1 or two or three spoonfuls of ,mountain ,wine1 the ,juice of two ,lemons2 then set this on a slow ,fire1 and as it heats1 beat the ,whites of two ,eggs to a froth1 and put it into the ,pan1 where the ,jelly is1 at times as it rises2 and then1 when it just boils up1 take it from the ,fire1 and it will be clarified4 ,then pour it by small quantities into the ,jelly-bag1 and let it drop or run into some ,receiver2 but it will be apt to run thick at first3 then take that which is first run1 if it be thick1 and pour again into the ,jelly-bag1 and you will find it come clear4 ,then place your ,glasses to receive it1 and change the full one for another1 which you must carefully watch1 that your ,glasses be not soil'd in the least1 for the ,beauty of this1 in one particular1 is its transparency2 and again1 it should not be too stiff4 ,some only take the ,harts-horn ,shavings1 six ,ounces to two ,quarts of ,water1 and boil it gently till the ,liquor will jelly1 without the expence of a ,sand-heat1 or setting it on hot ,embers4 ,the boiling it is the best way1 but requires more ,patience4 ,to make a ,tart of the ,ananas1 or ,pine-,apple4 ,from ,barbadoes4 ,take a ,pine-,apple1 and twist off its ,crown3 then pare it free from the ,knots1 and cut it in ,slices about half an ,inch thick2 then stew it with a little ,canary ,wine1 or ,madera ,wine1 and some ,sugar1 till it is thoroughly hot1 and it will distribute its ,flavour to the ,wine much better than any thing we can add to it4 ,when it is as one would have it1 take it from the ,fire2 and when it is cool1 put it into a sweet ,paste1 with its ,liquor1 and bake it gently1 a little while1 and when it comes from the ,oven1 pour ,cream over it1 7if you have it7 and serve it either hot or cold4 ,marmalade of ,pine-,apples1 or ,ananas4 ,when you have small ,pine-,apples in ,fruit1 which are not noble enough to be brought to the ,table1 twist off their ,crowns1 and pare them2 then slice them1 and put them into a ,syrup of ,water1 ,sugar1 and ,pippins2 and boil them with half their quantity of ,sugar added to them1 with a little ,white ,wine1 breaking them with a ,spoon1 as they boil1 till they come to a ,mash1 or are a little tender4 ,then take them from the ,fire1 and put the ,marmalade into ,glasses to keep1 and cover every ,glass with white ,paper1 preserving them in a dry ,place4 ,to dress the ,giblets of a ,tortoise1 or ,sea-,turtle4 ,from a ,barbadoes ,lady4 ,take the ,head1 the ,feet1 and the ,tail1 of either of these1 and taking off their ,scales1 stew them three or four ,hours1 in ,salt and ,water1 till they are almost tender2 then broil them a little with ,pepper and ,salt on them1 and then put them into a ,stew-pan with a ,shallot1 and some ,spice and sweet ,herbs1 according to your ,taste2 some strong ,gravey1 and some ,wine1 and thicken the ,sauce1 taking out the bunch of sweet ,herbs4 ,you may put then some ,juice of ,limes to them1 or ,chadocks or ,lemons1 to make them fine4 ,n4,b4 ,this is a dainty ,dish1 if they are broil'd1 after the first stewing1 because as they are sinewey1 the ,sinews ought to be a little scorched by broiling1 or else they will not be so tender as one would have them4 ,there are two ,sorts of ,tortoises1 the ,land1 and the ,sea-,tortoise2 but the ,sea-,tortoise or ,turtle1 is what ,i mean1 which is that which we have about the ,west-,indies4 ,this is a fine ,animal1 partaking of the ,land and ,water4 ,its ,flesh between that of ,veal1 and that of a ,lobster1 and is extremely pleasant1 either roasted or baked4 ,there are some of these ,creatures that weigh near two hundred ,weight4 ,they are frequently brought to ,england in ,tubs of ,sea ,water1 and will keep alive a long time4 ,to roast a ,piece of ,turtle1 or ,tortoise4 ,from the same4 ,take a piece of the ,flesh of about five or six ,pounds1 and lay it in ,salt and ,water two ,hours2 then stick a few ,cloves in it1 and fasten it to the ,spit1 baste it at first with ,wine and ,lemon-,juice2 and when it is near enough1 drudge some ,flour over it1 with the raspings of ,bread sifted2 and then baste it well1 either with ,oil1 or ,butter1 strewing on1 from time to time1 more ,flour and ,raspings till it is enough2 then take the ,liquor in the ,pan1 and pouring off the ,fat1 boil it with some ,lemon-,peel1 and a little ,sugar and ,salt1 and pour it over the ,turtle4 ,so serve it hot4 ,to make a ,turtle1 or ,tortoise-,pye4 ,from the same4 ,cut the ,flesh of ,turtle1 or ,tortoise1 into ,slices1 about an ,inch thick2 then take ,cloves beaten fine1 with some ,pepper and ,salt1 and a little sweet ,herbs1 and season your ,pieces with them2 then lay them in your ,crust1 with some ,lemons sliced1 and a quarter of a ,pint of ,oil-,olive pour'd over them1 ,or else some ,butter laid in bits upon them4 ,in the cutting your ,pieces1 distribute your ,fat and ,lean1 equally as may be2 and though the ,fat is of a greenish colour1 it is yet very delicious3 then close your ,pye1 and just before you put it in the ,oven1 pour in some ,white ,wine1 and bake it in a gentle ,oven till it is tender4 ,then serve it hot4 ,to preserve ,ginger-,roots4 ,from the same4 ,take ,roots of ,ginger1 as we have them dry in ,england2 wash them well1 and lay one ,pound of them to steep1 ten or twelve ,days1 in ,white ,wine and ,water1 stirring them every ,day4 ,then take two ,quarts of ,white ,wine1 and about half a ,pint of ,lemon-,juice1 and boil them together a quarter of an ,hour2 then add two ,pounds and a half of fine ,sugar1 and boil it to a ,syrup1 taking off the ,scum as it rises2 then put in your ,ginger1 and boil it a quarter of an ,hour2 then let it cool in a glazed ,pan till the next ,day1 and then boil it again in the ,syrup for half an ,hour1 and let it cool1 as before1 till the ,day following1 and repeat the boiling and cooling till your ,ginger is clear1 and put it into your ,glasses1 and cover them with ,papers4 ,it makes a fine ,sweet-meat for the ,winter4 ,to preserve ,ginger-,roots1 fresh taken out of the ,ground4 ,from the same4 ,as ,ginger is very common in the ,west-,indies1 so the ,roots are either preserved or pickled1 when they are fresh taken out of the ,ground1 and we have now ,ginger1 growing in ,pots1 almost in every ,garden where there is a ,stove2 and in a ,year's time a single ,root will almost fill a ,pot2 so that one might easily have enough of our own1 to preserve every ,year4 ,we must take them up1 when they have no ,leaves upon them2 and then scald them in ,water1 and rub them with a coarse ,cloth till they are dry2 then put them into ,white ,wine and ,water1 and boil them half an4 ,hour2 then let them cool1 and boil them again half an ,hour4 ,then make a ,syrup with ,white ,wine two ,quarts1 half a ,pint of ,lime or ,lemon-,juice1 and two ,pounds and a half of fine ,sugar1 with two ,ounces of the ,leaves of ,orange-,flowers4 ,when these boil together1 put in your ,ginger1 and boil it gently half an ,hour2 then let it cool in an earthen glaz'd ,vessel1 and continue to boil it every ,day1 and cooling it till the ,roots of your ,ginger are clear4 ,then put it up in ,gallypots1 or in ,glasses1 and cover them with ,papers1 to keep for use4 ,to make ,paste of ,pippins1 or other fine ,apples4 ,from the same4 ,take large ,golden-,pippins1 or ,golden-,rennets1 and scald them1 with their ,skins on2 then pare them1 and take out the ,cores1 and beat them in a ,marble ,mortar very well1 with a little ,lemon-,peel grated4 ,take then their weight of fine ,sugar1 and a little ,water1 and boil that in a ,skillet to a candy height2 then put in your ,apples1 and boil them thick in the ,syrup till they will leave the ,skillet1 and when it is almost cold1 work it up with fine ,loaf-,sugar powder'd1 and mould it into ,cakes1 then dry them4 ,to preserve ,cornelian-,cherries4 ,from the same4 ,take ,cornelian-,cherries1 when they are full ripe1 and take their weight in fine ,sugar powder'd2 then put these into your preserving ,pan1 and lay a ,layer of ,sugar1 and another of ,fruit2 and so on till you have laid all in1 covering them with ,sugar2 then pour upon them half a ,pint of ,white ,wine1 and set it on the ,fire1 and as soon as the ,sugar is all melted1 boil them up quick1 and take off the ,scum as it rises1 stirring them every now and then3 and when the ,fruit is clear1 they are enough4 ,then put them into ,glasses1 and cover them with ,papers4 ,to make ,marmalade of ,cornelian-,cherries4 ,from the same4 ,when your ,cornelian-,cherries are full ripe1 take out the ,stones1 and to every ,pound of ,fruit1 take its weight of fine ,sugar powder'd4 ,wet it with ,white ,wine1 and boil it to a candy'd height2 then put in your ,fruit1 with the ,juice that comes from them2 then boil them very quick1 and stir it often1 scumming it clean2 and when you see it very clear1 and of a good ,consistence1 put it into a glaz'd earthen ,pan2 and when it is almost cold1 put it into ,glasses1 and cover them with white ,paper1 and keep it in a dry ,room4 ,note1 ,if you let any of these sharp ,fruits stand to cool in your ,sweet-meat-,pans1 they will take an ill taste from them4 ,to make ,jamm of ,damsons4 ,from the same4 ,take ,damsons1 full ripe1 a ,gallon2 pick them from the ,stalks1 that may happen to be about them1 and the ,leaves that are sometimes gather'd with them3 then take near their weight of ,sugar1 and about a ,quart of ,water1 and boil them well together1 and put in your ,damsons1 and boil them till they are tender1 breaking them with a ,spoon1 all the while1 till the whole is thicken'd4 ,then put it in ,gallypots1 and set it to cool2 then close the ,pots down with ,leather4 ,to preserve ,currans in ,jelly4 ,from the same4 ,take some of the large ,dutch red or white ,currans1 when they are ripe1 and pick them from the ,stalks2 then1 with a ,pin1 pick out the ,stones2 or1 you may1 if you will1 leave them on the ,stalks1 if they are large ,bunches1 but still pick out the ,kernels4 ,then take their weight in ,sugar1 and wet it with a little ,water1 and add a little ,syrup of ,raspberries to it2 then boil it to a ,syrup1 scumming it as it rises3 then put in your ,currans1 and boil them up quick1 shaking them often1 still taking off the ,scum as it rises4 ,they will be enough done to put up1 when the ,syrup will jelly1 as you may try by putting some in a ,spoon1 and letting it cool4 ,when you find this1 pour out all into ,glasses1 when it has cool'd a little4 ,if your ,currans are pick'd from the ,stalks1 or if they are in ,bunches1 then let the ,syrup be half cold1 and pour it into the ,glasses2 and then put in your ,bunches1 placing them as you would have them situated1 and as it cools1 they will fix in their several ,stations2 cover the ,glasses then with white ,paper4 ,note1 ,the red ,currans ought to be done by themselves1 and the white by themselves1 for both together will make a disagreeable ,mixture4 ,to dry ,apricots4 ,from ,mrs4 ,walsingham of ,suffolk4 ,chuse for this use1 the large ,turkey or ,roman-,apricot1 almost ripe2 ,stone them1 and pare them2 then throw them into cold ,water1 with the ,parings2 weigh the pared ,apricots1 and prepare an equal weight of fine ,sugar powder'd2 then put some of the ,water the ,apricots were steep'd in1 to the ,sugar1 and boil them to a candy'd height3 you may then put in your ,apricots1 and boil them till they are clear1 and when they have lain a few ,days1 in the ,syrup1 lay them upon a fine ,wyre-,sieve1 and dry them in a warm ,place4 ,then1 when they are done1 put them in oaken ,boxes1 with ,papers between them4 ,to stew a ,rump of ,beef4 ,from ,mrs4 ,l---- ,take a small ,rump of ,beef1 lay it in a long ,pan1 deep enough to allow your ,beef to be cover'd2 then put to it a ,pint of ,ale1 a ,quart of ,claret1 half a ,pint of ,verjuice1 or the ,juice of two large ,lemons2 and as much ,water added1 as will make ,liquor enough to cover it1 a ,crust of ,bread burnt1 an ,anchovy1 some bits of ,lemon-,peel1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 two large ,hertfordshire ,turnips cut in dice1 two large ,onions cut in halves1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 a ,nutmeg sliced1 a few ,cloves1 and a little ,mace4 ,stop this close1 and let it stew1 at least1 five ,hours2 then lay your ,beef in the ,dish1 and pass the ,liquor through a ,sieve1 and fill the ,dish with it2 garnishing with ,turnips1 cut in ,dice1 boil'd tender1 and then fry'd in ,hog's-,lard1 and sliced ,lemon1 or you may bake your ,rump of ,beef1 if you will1 for it is much the same4 ,and this way you may likewise bake or stew a ,leg of ,beef1 or an ,ox-,cheek1 only break the ,bones of the ,leg of ,beef1 and take out all the ,bones of the ,ox-,cheek1 and take especially ,care to clean it1 for it requires some nicety to do it well4 ,pepper-,mint ,water1 ,from the same4 ,take ,pepper-,mint six handfuls1 cut it a little1 and infuse it two ,days in six ,quarts of clean ,spirit2 then draw it off in a cold ,still1 marking every ,bottle1 as it fills1 with a ,number1 for the first ,bottle will be far the strongest1 the second less strong1 and the third weaker than the second2 and so as we draw off more1 they will be still weaker1 till at last it becomes almost insipid1 and somewhat sourish1 but take none of that2 then cover the ,mouth of your ,bottles with ,papers prick'd full of ,holes1 and let them stand a ,day or two2 then pour your first ,bottle into a large earthen glaz'd ,pan2 and to that the second1 and then the third1 and the fourth1 and so on1 till by mixing they all become of a sufficient strength2 then put them in ,bottles1 with a ,knob or two of double-refin'd ,loaf-,sugar1 and cork them close4 ,this is an incomparable pleasant ,dram1 tasting like ,ice1 or ,snow1 in the ,mouth1 but creates a fine warmth in the ,stomach1 and yields a most refreshing ,flavour4 ,this ,sort of ,mint is hard to be met with2 but is lately cultivated in some ,physick ,gardens at ,mitcham4 ,it must be kept well weeded1 and the top of the ,bed1 where it grows1 must1 when we cut it1 be pricked up1 a little1 with a small ,fork1 or the ,earth made fine with a ,trowel2 because the ,runners1 of this sort of ,mint1 shoot along upon the ,surface of the ,ground1 and so at the ,joints strike ,root1 which is contrary to other ,sorts of ,mint1 which shoot their ,runners under ground4 ,damson-,wine to imitate ,claret4 ,from the same4 ,take nine ,gallons of ,water1 make it scalding hot1 and pour it upon six and thirty ,pounds of ,malaga ,raisins well pick'd from the ,stalks4 ,the ,raisins should be sound1 or they will spoil your ,wine4 ,while the ,water is yet hot1 put into the ,liquor half a ,peck of ,damsons full ripe1 and pick'd clean of the ,stalks and ,leaves1 to each ,gallon of ,liquor2 then stir them all together in the open ,tub we make this ,infusion in1 and continue stirring them twice a ,day for six ,days4 ,keep this ,tub cover'd with a ,cloth all that time3 then let it stand five or six ,days longer1 without stiring1 and then draw it off3 and if it is not deep-colour'd enough1 put a little ,syrup of ,mulberries to it1 and work it with a piece of ,white-,bread toasted1 and spread with ,yeast or ,barm1 in an open ,vessel2 and then tun it1 keeping the ,bung of the ,vessel open till the ,wine has done singing in the ,cask4 ,then slop it close1 and let it stand till it is clear1 which will be in two or three ,months2 then draw it off4 ,some will just give their ,damsons a scald in the ,water before they pour it on the ,raisins1 which is a good way4 ,to ,cure a ,lap-,dog1 when he continues drowsy some ,days1 and cannot eat4 ,from the same4 ,if you find a ,lap-,dog to be sleepy1 and will not take his ,victuals for two or three ,days2 or if he eats1 and as often discharges it soon after2 take a large ,tea-spoon-full of ,rum or ,brandy1 and as much ,water1 and holding his ,head up1 and his ,mouth open with one ,hand1 pour it down his ,throat4 ,this is quantity enough for one of the smallest ,dogs1 and will cure him in less than half an ,hour2 but as the ,dogs are larger1 you may give to the biggest a large spoonful of ,rum or ,brandy equally mix'd with ,water1 and so in proportion to the size of the ,dog4 ,it is a sure ,remedy4 ,dog-,grass1 or ,couch-,grass1 or ,twitch-,grass1 necessary to be had1 growing in ,pots in ,london1 to cure ,lap-,dogs1 that are sick1 in the ,summer4 ,from the same4 ,couch-,grass is one of the ,gardener's ,plagues1 and is in every ,garden too much4 ,take a ,clump of this1 and set it in a large ,garden-,pot1 and letting it stand as airy as possible1 water it gently every other ,morning4 ,there is one sort of it1 which is finely variegated1 the ,leaves appearing like striped ,ribbons4 ,this fine sort is at the ,ivy-,house at ,hoxton1 where it may be put in ,pots at any time4 ,this1 or the other1 should be put to a ,dog1 at any time1 when he is sick1 and he will eat it greedily1 and cure himself2 but for want of this ,help1 which favourite ,lap-,dogs in ,london want1 they lose their briskness4 ,i believe it would be worth some poor ,woman's while to sell this ,grass1 in ,london1 where so many fine ,lap-,dogs are kept1 and indulged so much1 that they cannot be taken abroad to search their ,physick2 while those of the larger kind take their way abroad1 in the ,mornings1 at their pleasure4 ,this1 ,sir1 ,i send you with some other ,receipts1 because ,dogs are not a little useful about a ,farm1 and the little ones are no less agreeable to their ,keepers4 ,and ,i am sure1 if you publish these1 they will prove very acceptable to many ,ladies1 and ,gentlemen1 who are ,admirers of these faithful ,creatures4 ,i am1 c4 ,j4 ,l4 ,lisbon or ,portugal-,cakes4 ,from the same1 ,take a ,pound of double-refin'd ,loaf-,sugar beaten fine1 and past through a fine ,sieve4 ,mix this with a ,pound of fine ,flour2 then rub into these a ,pound of fresh or new ,butter1 till your ,sugar and ,flour looks like ,bread-,crumbs2 then add1 two or three spoonfulls of ,orange-,flower-,water1 and about ten spoonfuls of ,canary-,wine3 then beat ten ,eggs1 till their ,whites are whipt to ,snow1 and mix the ,eggs1 with the rest1 with a quarter of a ,pound of blanched ,almonds beaten in a ,marble ,mortar1 with some ,orange-,flower ,water2 and when you have butter'd your ,pans well1 fill them half full with this ,mixture1 and bake them1 if you make them without ,currans1 or else fill the ,pans fuller1 first plumping the ,currans1 which should be in proportion1 as you please4 ,imperial ,florentine4 ,from ,mr4 ,byecorf at ,augsburgh4 ,cut the leanest part of a ,leg of ,veal1 in thin ,slices1 and beat them with the ,back of a ,knife1 as you would do ,scots ,collups2 then season the ,cutlets with ,cloves1 ,pepper beaten fine to powder1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 with some ,nutmeg grated1 a little dry'd sweet ,marjoram powder'd1 or some sweet ,basil4 ,lay this ,mixture pretty thick upon them1 and roll them up with a little ,piece of fat ,bacon1 in the middle2 then lay in your ,paste to the ,dish1 and over the ,bottom strew a little ,pepper1 ,salt1 and ,nutmeg1 with some ,balls of farced ,meat1 with bits of ,butter1 placed here and there4 ,put in then your rolls of ,veal1 with some ,cocks-,combs blanched1 a quarter of a ,pint of ,mushroom ,buttons pickled1 some ,slices of ,lemon1 with half a ,pint of ,white ,wine1 and about a ,pint of ,water2 then close your ,pye1 and when it is baked1 serve it hot4 ,n4,b4 ,before you close it1 put some bits of ,butter on the top of your ,rolls of ,meat4 ,to make ,farced ,meat1 for the foregoing ,florentine4 ,from the same4 ,take the ,lean of a ,leg of ,veal1 chop it small1 and beat it well in a ,marble ,mortar1 with as much ,fat of the ,kidney of ,veal2 and then put some ,pepper1 ,salt1 ,cloves1 ,nutmeg1 ,powder of dry'd sweet ,marjoram1 and some ,mushrooms1 chopt as you please2 then add as many ,eggs1 beaten as you think proper1 with some grated ,bread1 to make it into a ,paste1 and roll this ,mixture into ,balls4 ,some instead of the ,kidney-,fat of ,veal1 will chop the same quantity of fat ,bacon4 ,to make a ,tart of white ,beet-,cards4 ,from the same4 ,take some white ,beet-,cards1 7or ,leaves7 as much ,spinach-,leaves1 and the same quantity of ,french ,sorrel1 which has a round ,leaf4 ,chop these small1 or if you beat them all together in a ,marble ,mortar1 it is better2 then strain out the ,juice1 and put it amongst the same proportion1 or quantity1 of the same ,herbs1 fresh cut1 that is1 put the ,liquor to as many ,herbs as you cut before1 and shred them2 then add to them about five ,ounces of good ,sugar1 and you may put as much ,currans4 ,mix these well1 and bake them2 then pour over it1 while it is hot1 some ,cream that has been boil'd thick1 and serve it hot3 but if you use raw ,cream1 from the ,dairy1 you must mix it with the ,ingredients1 and then strew fine powder'd ,sugar over it1 but serve it hot1 let it be which way you will4 ,to make a ,preserve of ,quinces1 white in ,jelly4 ,from the same4 ,make a ,syrup of ,golden-,pippins1 or ,golden-,rennets2 and to make that1 pare your ,apples1 and core them1 but never use two sorts together1 for one will be soft before the other is half done4 ,always take this for a ,rule in ,apples1 ,onions1 and ,turnips2 they should be all of one kind1 and all from the same ,place1 or else you will be disappointed4 ,boil your ,apples with their weight in ,sugar1 and as much ,water as will mix with it3 boil this to a ,jelly1 and in the mean time1 pare your ,quinces1 and cut them in ,quarters1 taking them clear off the ,core2 then boil them1 first in fair ,water1 till they are a little tender1 and then put them into the boiling ,syrup1 and keep them gently boiling half an ,hour1 or what one might more properly call stewing4 ,if the ,quinces are not then clear1 boil them again1 the next ,day1 in the same ,liquor2 and when the ,quinces are as clear as they can be1 which is never very much like other ,fruits1 but we should rather say tender1 put them into ,gallypots1 or ,glasses1 and pour the ,syrup1 or ,jelly1 over them1 to keep2 and as soon as they are cold1 then put ,papers over them4 ,to ,candy whole ,orange1 or ,lemon-,peels4 ,take some of the fairest ,oranges1 or ,lemons1 and cut a small hole in the top of them2 then scoop out all the ,pulp1 as clean as possible2 lay these in ,water to steep eight or ten ,days1 shifting them to fresh ,waters twice a ,day2 then boil them in several ,waters1 till they are tender enough to run a ,straw through them4 ,then take one ,pound of double-refin'd ,loaf-,sugar to each ,pound of ,peel1 and a ,quart of ,water3 then make your ,syrup1 and boil your ,peels in it eight or ten ,minutes1 and let them stand in your ,syrup five or six ,days1 in an earthen glaz'd ,vessel1 for it would spoil in a ,brass or ,copper ,pan3 then to every ,pound put one ,pound more of ,sugar into your ,syrup1 and boil your ,peels in it1 till they are clear2 then put them into ,gallypots1 and boil your ,syrup till it is almost of a ,candy height1 and pour it upon your ,peels2 and when it is cold1 cover it4 ,the same manner they preserve the ,peels of green ,oranges1 ,lemons1 and ,limes1 in ,barbadoes4 ,to stew ,soles4 ,from ,yarmouth4 ,take the largest ,soles you can get1 gut them1 and skin them2 lay them then into a ,stew-pan1 and pour in about a ,pint of good ,beef ,gravey1 and as much ,claret2 some bits of ,lemon-,peel1 an ,anchovy or two1 a stick of ,horse-,radish1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 a large ,onion1 half a large ,nutmeg1 some ,cloves and ,mace1 whole ,pepper1 and ,salt1 with a little bit of ,butter4 ,then stew these till the ,fish is enough1 and pour off the ,liquor1 through a ,sieve1 and thicken it with burnt ,butter1 having first put to it the ,juice of a ,lemon4 ,then pour the ,sauce over the ,fish1 and garnish with ,lemon sliced1 and the ,roots of red ,beets pickled and sliced1 with ,horse-,radish scraped1 and fry'd ,bread4 ,a ,hash of raw ,beef4 ,from ,mr4 ,moring at the ,blue-,posts ,temple-,bar4 ,cut some thin ,slices of tender ,beef1 and put them in a ,stew-,pan1 with a little ,water1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,lemon-,peel1 an ,onion1 with some ,pepper1 ,salt1 and some ,nutmeg4 ,cover these close1 and let them stew till they are tender2 then pour in a ,glass or two of ,claret2 and when it is warm1 clear your ,sauce of the ,onion1 ,herbs1 c4 and thicken it with burnt ,butter4 ,it is an excellent ,dish4 ,serve it hot1 and garnish with ,lemon diced1 and red ,beet-,roots1 ,capers1 and such like4 ,thin ,beef-,collups stew'd4 ,from ,oxford4 ,cut raw ,beef in thin ,slices1 as you would do ,veal1 for ,scots ,collups2 lay them in a ,dish1 with a little ,water1 a ,glass of ,wine1 a ,shallot1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 and a little sweet ,marjoram powdered2 then clap another ,dish over that1 having first put a thin slice or two of fat ,bacon among your ,collups3 then set your ,mess1 so as to rest upon the backs of two ,chairs1 and take six ,sheets of whited-brown ,paper1 and tear it in long ,pieces2 and then lighting one of them1 hold it under the ,dish1 till it burns out1 then light another1 and so another till all your ,paper is burnt2 and then your ,stew will be enough1 and full of ,gravey4 ,some will put in a little ,mushroom ,gravey1 with the ,water1 and the other ,ingredients1 which is yet a very good way4 ,stew'd ,beef-,steaks4 ,from the ,spring-,gardens at ,vaux-,hall1 ,surrey4 ,take good ,rump-,beef ,steaks1 and season them with ,pepper and ,salt2 then lay them into the ,pan1 and pour in a little ,water2 then add a bunch of sweet ,herbs a few ,cloves1 an ,anchovy1 a little ,verjuice1 an ,onion1 and a little ,lemon-,peel1 with a little bit of ,butter1 or fat ,bacon1 and a ,glass of ,white ,wine4 ,cover these close1 and stew them gently1 and when they are tender1 pour away the ,sauce1 and strain it2 then take out the ,steaks1 and flour them1 and fry them2 and when you put them in the ,dish1 thicken the ,sauce1 and pour it over them4 ,this way was much approved4 ,to make ,cologn's-,geneva4 ,from ,cologn4 ,take good ,brandy1 one ,gallon2 then take two ,pounds of ,juniper-berries fresh gather'd1 and full ripe4 ,press these till you perceive a greenish ,liquor come from them2 then put them into the ,brandy1 and let them remain about ten ,days3 then pour them through a ,cloth of coarse ,linnen1 and squeeze it1 and when you have the ,liquor1 if you find it too strong1 you may add to it some more ,brandy1 and half a ,pound of fine ,sugar to a ,gallon4 ,then put it in ,flasks1 or ,bottles4 ,then take the ,pressings1 and infuse them again in ,brandy1 for six or seven ,days1 and distil them4 ,this they call double ,cologn's ,gin1 and the best is sold in ,holland1 at three ,shillings and ,six-pence per ,quart4 ,to make ,scots-,snuff1 or pure ,tobacco-,snuff4 ,from ,mr4 ,hyslop4 ,take the ,leaves of good ,tobacco1 and spread them open2 then dry them gently in the ,sun1 or before the ,fire1 and strip them from the ,stalks2 when the leafy part will crumble1 between the ,fingers2 then put it into a ,mill1 and with a ,pestle rolling about it1 the ,tobacco will presently be ground1 as fine as ,snuff2 or else1 if you have never a ,mill1 when your ,tobacco will break between the ,fingers1 lay it on an oaken ,table1 and pass the flat side of a ,knife over it1 backwards and forwards1 as if you was whetting it1 pressing it hard1 and you will make fine ,snuff4 ,this ,i mention here1 because1 sometimes1 the ,snuff-takers are without ,snuff1 and remote from any ,place where it may be had1 and would give any ,money for it2 which was my ,case1 when ,i learn'd this ,receipt1 and by the last ,means was presently supplied3 we may make it likewise of cut ,tobacco dry'd before the ,fire4 ,or if we raise ,tobacco in our ,gardens1 pick the ,leaves from the ,stalks1 towards the ,root1 when they are full grown1 tie six in a bunch together1 and hang them up to dry in the ,shade2 then dip them in ,water1 or some ,beer or ,ale1 and hang them up again to dry1 and then press the ,leaves one upon another1 in their ,bunches1 in a ,box or ,tub1 as hard as possible2 and in a few ,months time1 they will make very good ,snuff1 being order'd as above directed4 ,butter turned to ,oil recovered4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,n4 ,there are some ,lands1 as well as some ,treatments of ,butter in the ,dairy1 that makes the ,butter so very fat and greasy1 that it is hard to melt1 without running to ,oil2 while1 on the other hand1 there is a sort of ,butter1 which cuts as firm as ,wax2 and even this will sometimes turn to ,oil in the melting1 but very seldom4 ,however1 when it so happens1 pour your oil'd ,butter into a ,porringer1 and letting it stand a little1 melt a little fresh1 and as soon as it is liquid1 pour into it1 by gentle degrees1 at times1 some of the ,butter that was oil'd before1 keeping your ,sauce-pan shaking all the while2 and if you find it any way difficult to be recovered1 pour in a little ,milk1 and shake them together1 and it will recover4 ,memorandum1 ,a ,sauce-pan that is very thin at the ,bottom is apt to oil ,butter1 let it be ever so good4 ,orange or ,lemon-,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,take some preserv'd ,orange or ,lemon-,peels1 wash'd from their ,syrup2 then beat them1 in a ,marble ,mortar1 to a ,pulp1 adding a little ,orange-,flower ,water to them1 and a very little ,gum-,arabic to it powder'd1 this will become a ,paste2 then mould it into ,cakes1 with double-refined ,sugar beaten fine1 and dry them2 they must then be laid in ,boxes1 between sheets of white ,paper1 and kept in a dry ,place4 ,to dry ,plums1 of any sort1 without ,sugar4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,wyre ,sieve1 and gather your ,plums1 not too ripe1 nor in the heat of the ,day2 run a ,needle through the ,skin of each of them1 and lay them on the ,sieve1 so as not to touch one another4 ,put your ,sieve then into a declining ,oven1 and let it stand twelve ,hours2 then set it by1 and repeat the same the second and third time1 and if the ,plums are large1 then it may be they will require the fourth or fifth time2 but turn them every time1 when you are going to put them in the ,oven4 ,they will dry by this ,means so well1 that you may keep them all the ,winter1 for use1 in ,boxes1 in a dry ,place4 ,memorandum1 ,some of them will candy on the ,outsides4 ,the ,mussel-,plum is a very good one for this use4 ,the ,shropshire and ,worcestershire-,dish4 ,from the same4 ,sir1 ,if you would please all ,people1 by the several ,receipts you publish1 you ought to have the particular ,dish that is the ,favourite of every ,county4 ,in ,worcestershire and ,shropshire1 the following is in esteem1 and ,i believe you will oblige several ,gentlemen and ,ladies of these ,parts1 if you would insert it in some of your ,works4 ,take some good middling ,bacon1 and fry it2 then put in some ,calf's ,liver1 and cut it in thick ,pieces1 pepper it1 and salt it2 and when it is enough1 for it must not be fry'd hard1 have ready prepared some ,cabbage-,lettuce1 some white ,beet-,cards1 or ,beet-,leaves1 and some ,spinach-,leaves1 and chop them together1 with some ,parsley1 but not too small2 then chop some ,onion1 and mix with the rest2 then throw them into your ,frying pan1 with a piece of ,butter1 when the ,bacon and ,liver is out1 and fry them till they are tender1 and as brown as may be2 putting in a spoonful of ,verjuice1 or the ,juice of a ,lemon1 a little before they are enough4 ,and having kept the ,liver and ,bacon hot all the while1 pour these ,herbs over them1 which ought to be in good quantity4 ,fine ,cakes to keep4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,pound of fine ,sugar powder'd1 and somewhat less than a ,quart of ,flour4 ,rub these with a ,pound of fresh ,butter1 and mix it with three or four ,yolks of ,eggs1 with some ,orange-,flower-,water1 and a little ,ale-,yeast3 set this ,paste before the ,fire to rise1 and roll out your ,cakes thin1 while the ,paste is hot2 then cut them into what ,shapes you please1 and prick them on the top1 and bake them in a gentle ,oven4 ,they will keep a long time and are very good4 ,to make ,penzance-,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,take the ,yolks of ,eggs well beaten1 put to them some ,mace finely powder'd1 with a few spoonfuls of ,wine1 a little ,salt1 and as much ,sugar as you please2 then add as much ,flour as is necessary1 and a small quantity of ,ale-,yeast1 and work your ,dough pretty stiff2 then add some fresh ,butter1 broken in little bits1 and work it in till all the ,paste has partaken of it1 and the ,dough becomes as stiff as at first4 ,make your ,cakes then1 and bake them4 ,they will keep some time4 ,to make ,crystal candy'd ,sweet-meats4 ,from the same4 ,when we propose to make these candy'd ,sweet-meats1 we must first know what ,fruits1 ,flowers1 c4 are proper for them1 and how those ought to be gathered and prepared4 ,first of all1 to begin with the ,flowers4 ,take ,orange-,flowers1 or ,lemon1 or ,citron-,flowers2 gather them1 when the ,dew is upon them1 in the ,morning1 because the ,leaves of them will be then full1 and then they are best to use1 when the ,leaves are pick'd off1 and then the ,dew will be gone2 but if they lie a ,day1 they will shrink1 turn bitter1 and of a yellowish brown ,colour4 ,take these ,leaves fresh pick'd1 and pour the following ,composition upon them4 ,you may take also some ,orange1 or ,lemon1 or ,citron1 preserved1 and dry'd1 and cut them in small pieces4 ,or ,apricots dry'd and cut into small pieces1 or such sorts as are a little hard in themselves will do4 ,if one was to cut some ,pine-,apple1 or ,ananas1 simply or preserv'd1 and cut that in pieces1 it would be entomb'd in a ,rock of ,sugar2 or ,currans preserv'd upon their ,stalks may do1 if you think it worth while2 but ,orange-,flower-,leaves do very well4 ,it is a fine ,candy to carry in the ,pocket4 ,then to begin your ,business4 ,take one ,pound of double-refined ,loaf-,sugar beat small1 and finely sifted2 mix this with four or five spoonfuls of ,orange-,flower-,water1 and about half a ,drachm of ,gum-,arabic finely beaten2 then put three spoonfuls of ,white ,wine1 and mix all together1 and boil them in a glazed earthen ,vessel till the ,liquor will hardly run1 or at least run in ,ropes2 then have small ,jars of earthen ,ware glazed1 and put into each of them the several sorts of ,fruits1 and ,flowers1 you would inclose in candy'd ,sugar1 making those ,jars very hot1 and immediately pour the ,liquor upon them1 and stop them close2 then put the ,jars into a ,stove1 for a fortnight or more1 and you may then break the ,jars1 and your several ,fruits and ,flowers will be inclosed in a crystal like ,candy1 such as white ,sugar ,candy4 ,and then with a slight blow of an ,hammer1 break these ,candies into ,pieces of about a ,finger's length1 and keep them in ,glasses stopt close1 in a dry ,place1 and they will remain good several ,years4 ,the little ,pots must be broken of course4 ,to make a ,hackin4 ,from a ,gentleman in ,cumberland4 ,sir1 ,there are some ,counties in ,england1 whose ,customs are never to be set aside2 and our ,friends in ,cumberland1 as well as some of our ,neighbours in ,lancashire1 and else-where1 keep them up4 ,it is a ,custom with us every ,christmas-,day in the ,morning1 to have1 what we call an ,hackin1 for the ,breakfast of the young ,men who work about our ,house2 and if this ,dish is not dressed by that time it is ,day-light1 the ,maid is led through the ,town1 between two ,men1 as fast as they can run with her1 up ,hill and down ,hill1 which she accounts a great shame4 ,but as for the ,receipt to make this ,hackin1 which is admired so much by us1 it is as follows4 ,take the ,bag or ,paunch of a ,calf1 and wash it1 and clean it well with ,water and ,salt2 then take some ,beef-,suet1 and shred it small1 and shred some ,apples1 after they are pared and cored1 very small4 ,then put in some ,sugar1 and some ,spice beaten small1 a little ,lemon-,peel cut very fine1 and a little ,salt1 and a good quantity of ,grots1 or whole ,oat-meal1 steep'd a ,night in ,milk2 then mix these all together1 and add as many ,currans pick'd clean from the ,stalks1 and rubb'd in a coarse ,cloth2 but let them not be wash'd4 ,and when you have all ready1 mix them together1 and put them into the ,calf's-,bag1 and tye them up1 and boil them till they are enough4 ,you may1 if you will1 mix up with the whole1 some ,eggs beaten1 which will help to bind it4 ,this is our ,custom to have ready1 at the opening of the ,doors1 on ,christmas-,day in the ,morning4 ,it is esteem'd here2 but all that ,i can say to you of it1 is1 that it eats somewhat like a ,christmas-,pye1 or is somewhat like that boil'd4 ,i had forgot to say1 that with the rest of the ,ingredients1 there should be some ,lean of tender ,beef minced small4 ,the ,northampton-,cake4 ,take a ,peck of ,flour1 and a ,pound of fine ,sugar beaten well into ,powder1 and sifted2 then add a quarter of an ,ounce of ,cloves1 half an ,ounce of ,cinnamon1 and a large ,nutmeg1 and beat them to powder2 put to this some ,orange-,flower-,water1 or ,rose-,water2 then take five or six ,pounds of ,currans well pick'd1 and rub'd dry with a coarse ,cloth1 but not wash'd4 ,put these with your ,fruit1 and a little ,salt into the ,flour2 then take as much ,cream as you think proper3 then melt two ,pounds of ,butter1 to mix with it1 and add a ,pint of ,canary-,wine1 and kneed it with some fresh ,ale-,yeast1 till it rises under your hand4 ,have your ,oven hot before you put it in the ,hoop for ,baking4 ,of the ,baking of ,fruit4 ,from ,mr4 ,l4 ,m4 ,it is to be observed1 that all ,fruits that are ripe require little baking1 and those which are of the hardest1 or most unripe ,sorts1 ought to have a long and gentle baking4 ,in ,pears1 for example1 when we have some of those1 which ripen in the ,autumn1 they will bake with a ,tart2 for as they are ripe of themselves1 they require very little baking1 for ,ripeness is one degree tending to ,rottenness2 and as that is done by heat gently1 so the ,oven brings that to a certain height1 suddenly1 with its safeguard of ,sugar2 that the ,fruit comes to its full flavour1 with the additional beauty1 from the ,sugar4 ,it would have done a great deal by ,nature itself1 if the ,tree had stood in a place agreeable2 but much more would it be for those baking ,pears1 as we call them1 if they had the advantage of a good ,climate2 one may guess then how much difference there is between one and the other4 ,in the tough and hard ,pears1 one ought to bake them twice1 that is1 once with a little ,water and ,sugar1 in as hot an ,oven as they bake ,bread in2 and then put them in ,pyes1 and bake them over again1 so will they become tender1 well tasted1 and of a fine colour4 ,but be it as it will1 as soon as either of these come out of the ,oven1 pour some ,cream over them1 and mix it with them1 if they are to be served hot1 mashing the ,fruit all the while2 but if they are to be served cold1 then only pour some ,cream over them1 when they just come from the ,oven1 and let it remain till you serve it cold4 ,there is one way which is practised by some1 and that is1 to break the hard ,pears1 just when they are taken out of the ,oven1 in the ,pye2 for else the outsides1 though the ,rind is off1 will be hard1 and tough3 then pour on the ,cream4 ,it is to be noted1 that all ripe ,apples require less baking1 and less ,sugar1 than the hard ,apples1 which do not become ripe till some ,months afterwards4 ,when an ,apple1 or ,pear1 for example1 is as ripe as it can be in our ,climate1 it will have some softness1 and some sweetness in it1 and therefore will require less baking1 as baking is only a sort of ripening2 and so on the other hand3 but we are providentially provided with both ,apples and ,pears1 which are1 some ripe sooner1 and some ripe later2 even that by the end of ,july1 we have some ripe1 and some remain hard and sour till ,june4 ,we ought be apprised of the ,sorts1 to take them in their several ,seasons1 and not to take the ,winter ,fruits1 for baking1 when we have ripe ,fruits by us4 ,many thousand ,bushels of ,fruit are lost for want of this ,caution4 ,so at any time1 when you use ,apples1 or ,pears1 for ,tarts1 ,puddings1 or ,sauces1 let them be all of one ,sort1 and ripe2 for1 if they are ripe1 or towards it1 they will soon soften2 and if you put two ,sorts together1 one will be in ,pulp very soon1 and the other will be hard for an ,hour or two1 and at length will not be soft4 ,memorandum1 ,this is not to be disregarded4 ,to make ,paste4 ,from ,mrs4 ,peasly4 ,there are many sorts of ,paste made1 and among them1 are some which are made with ,eggs1 according to the old fashion2 but these are always hard1 when they are baked1 though they will fly and crackle in the ,mouth1 but they taste like ,sticks3 while1 on the other side1 leave out your ,eggs1 and use ,butter and ,water only1 as in the following ,receipts1 and your ,paste will melt in the ,mouth1 and be agreeable to the ,taste4 ,if you would have a sweet ,paste2 then take half a ,pound of ,butter1 and rub it into about a ,pound of ,flour1 with two or three ,ounces of double-refined ,sugar powder'd1 and make it a ,paste1 with cold ,milk1 some ,sack and ,brandy4 ,this is a very good one4 ,you may also make an hot ,paste1 for minced ,pyes1 or such like1 by taking a quantity of ,flour as you like1 and break a ,pound or two of ,butter into a large ,sauce-pan of ,water2 and when the ,butter is melted1 make an hollow in the midst of the ,flour1 and scumming off the ,butter1 throw it1 at times1 into the ,flour1 with some of the boiling hot ,water along with it2 then1 when you have enough for your use1 work it into a stiff ,paste1 and lay it before the ,fire1 cover'd with a ,cloth1 and cut off such bits as you want1 just when you are going to use them4 ,this ,paste does very well for raised ,pyes4 ,some will make this ,paste by breaking in a ,pound of ,butter into a quarter of a ,peck of ,flour1 and then pouring on it some scalding hot ,water1 enough to work it to a stiff ,paste4 ,as for ,tarts1 one may make the following ,puff-,paste4 ,rub in some ,butter into your ,flour1 and make it into a ,paste with ,water1 and when it is moulded1 roll it out till it is about half an ,inch thick2 then put bits of ,butter upon it1 about half an ,inch asunder1 and fold your ,paste together1 and then fold it again3 then roll it again till it becomes of the thickness it was before2 and then lay bits of ,butter on it1 as before directed1 and fold it as mention'd above1 and roll it again to the thickness of half an ,inch2 then put on the rest of your ,butter1 and fold it up1 and roll it for the last time1 doubling it1 and rolling it twice1 before you use it4 ,this is very good for ,puffs1 ,puddings1 or ,petty-,patees4 ,as for ,meat-,pyes1 or ,pasties1 they require another sort of ,paste1 which is made thus4 ,rub seven ,pounds of ,butter into a ,peck of ,flour1 but not too small2 then make it into a ,paste with ,water4 ,it is good for ,venison-,pasties1 and such like great ,pyes4 ,to dress a ,dish of ,fish in the best manner4 ,from the same4 ,to make one of these grand ,dishes1 you ought always to have some capital sort of ,fish1 for the middle of the ,dish2 such as a ,turbut1 a ,jowl of fresh ,salmon1 a ,cod's ,head1 or a ,pike boiled2 and this must be adorn'd either with ,flounders1 ,whitings1 ,soles1 ,perch1 ,smelts1 or ,gudgeons1 or ,bourn ,trouts1 which are the small ,river ,trouts1 or young ,salmon-,fry1 according as you can meet with them4 ,this kind of ,dish is call'd a ,bisque of ,fish4 ,to boil ,fresh ,salmon4 ,if you have fresh ,salmon1 you wash it with ,salt and ,water1 and according to the ,fashion1 leave all the ,scales on1 though some take them off1 to prevent that trouble at the ,table2 for the ,skin of the ,salmon4 is the fattest part of the ,fish1 and is liked by most ,people4 ,lay your ,fish thus prepared1 into the ,pan1 where you boil it1 and pour in ,water1 with a sixth part of ,vinegar1 a little ,salt1 and a stick of ,horse-,radish2 this should be boiled pretty quick3 thus far for boiling fresh ,salmon4 ,the grand ,sauce for it you will see at the end of these ,receipts1 for preparing the several sorts of ,fish for the ,bisque but if it is served alone1 then let the ,sauce be as follows4 ,take a ,pint of ,shrimps1 a ,pint of ,oysters and their ,liquor1 and half a ,pint of pickled ,mushrooms2 or else take ,shrimps1 and the ,bodies of two middling ,sea-,crabs1 or of a couple of ,lobsters1 the ,tail of the ,lobsters to be cut in ,dice1 but use which you have by you4 ,if you have ,oysters1 stew them a little1 in their own ,liquor1 with some ,mace1 and whole ,pepper1 then lay by the ,oysters1 and put ,mushroom ,pickle to the ,liquor1 and dissolve two ,anchovies in it2 then melt what quantity of ,butter you think fit1 and mix your prepared ,liquor with it1 adding a little ,white ,wine1 or that may be left out4 ,i should take notice1 that just before you melt your ,butter1 put your ,oysters1 ,shrimps1 and ,mushrooms1 c4 into your prepared ,liquor to boil up1 and then mix all together4 ,note1 ,the ,bodies of the ,crabs being well stirred in the ,liquor1 will thicken it1 and render the whole very agreeable4 ,to boil ,turbut1 ,flounders1 or ,plaise1 ,pike1 or a ,cod's-,head1 or ,whitings4 ,when your ,fish are gutted and well wash'd3 put them upon your ,fish-,plate2 the ,jacks or ,pikes1 whether small or great1 must have their ,tails skewer'd into their ,mouths1 so that they make a round figure1 which is the ,fashion4 ,then put your ,fish into the ,kettle1 into as much ,water as will cover them4 ,put into this ,water1 an ,onion1 with some ,cloves stuck in it1 some ,mace1 some whole ,pepper1 a little bunch of sweet ,herbs1 a stick of ,horse-,radish1 and half a ,lemon4 ,when your ,liquor boils1 add a little ,vinegar1 or ,verjuice2 and when your ,fish are boiled enough1 let them drain before the ,fire4 ,the ,sauce for these1 if they are served singly1 is that directed for the ,salmon1 or else some melted ,butter1 ,anchovies dissolved in ,water1 over the ,fire1 and some ,shrimps2 or for want of them1 if you can get any of the small ,crabs1 such as they sell in ,london1 about eight or ten a ,penny1 and no bigger in their ,bodies than to contain the quantity of a ,golden-,pippin4 ,take the ,inside of the ,bodies of these1 and thicken your ,sauce with them4 ,or if you have ,cray-fish1 take the ,bodies of them1 and mix them well with your ,sauce1 and cut the ,tails in small bits1 as big as ,pease4 ,the foregoing way of boiling ,fish gives them a relish4 ,to fry ,soles1 ,flounders1 ,plaise1 ,whitings1 ,smelts1 and ,gudgeons1 or such like4 ,take a large quantity of ,hog's-,seam1 or ,lard1 and melt it in a ,pan1 till it is very hot2 then put in your ,fish1 prepared as follows2 but first you may fry some ,bread1 in ,lengths1 as big as one's ,finger1 to drain for a ,garnish4 ,as for ,soles1 skin them1 and gut them1 then flour them well1 and toss them into the ,pan1 turning them once1 when you see the upper side of a yellow ,colour4 ,when they are enough1 put them into a ,cullendar to drain before the ,fire4 ,flounders are only to be gutted1 and the ,skins wash'd with ,water and ,salt1 and being well dry'd with a ,cloth1 flour them1 and fling them into the ,pan1 and use them as you did the ,soles4 ,the ,plaise are to be done in the same manner as the ,flounders4 ,whitings must be treated in the same manner as the former4 ,smelts must be only rub'd with a coarse ,cloth1 and then flour'd1 and thrown into the ,pan4 ,gudgeons must be scaled and gutted1 well dry'd and flour'd1 and thrown into the hot ,lard3 but take care in all these that you have a quick ,fire under them1 and not too many in the ,pan at one time4 ,you have now all your ,furniture for your ,bisque of ,fish2 but to fry them still crisper1 and better1 use ,sallad-,oil instead of ,hogs-,lard2 or if you have neither of these1 you may use good dripping of ,beef1 or ,mutton1 but there must be enough of it1 and it should be as hot as possible1 in the ,pan1 when you throw your ,fish in4 ,serve these with melted ,butter1 and ,anchovy ,liquor1 with ,shrimps1 or ,oysters1 if they are single4 ,to broil ,whitings4 ,clean your ,whitings1 with ,water and ,salt1 after they are gutted1 and drying them thoroughly1 flour them well1 then lay them on the ,grid-,iron1 first rubbing it with a little ,chalk4 ,as you find them enough on one side1 turn them1 and serve them1 if they go to the ,table alone1 with ,butter melted1 some ,anchovy ,liquor1 and ,oyster ,sauce2 these may make one of your grand ,dishes of ,fish1 but fry'd and boiled is enough1 because there is never a ,dish of this kind1 but there are many more at the same ,treat1 which will give the ,cook a great deal of difficulty1 and besides you must still in this ,dish have some ,spitchcot-,eels4 ,n4,b4 ,i forbear to mention here the manner of dresing ,spitchcot-,eels1 as they are already set down in the first part of this ,book4 ,when you fry ,whitings1 skewer their ,tails in their ,mouths2 and some take off their ,skins4 ,the ,grand ,dish of ,fish1 and its ,sauce4 ,when we have prepared these things1 with regard to the grand ,dish we design1 then make the following ,sauce3 viz4 ,sauce for a ,bisque of ,fish4 ,take a ,pint of ,gravey1 two or three spoonfuls of ,mushroom ,katchep1 and a spoonful or two of ,mushroom ,pickle2 then add about a ,gill of ,white ,wine1 half an ,onion1 a slice of ,lemon with the ,peel1 two ,anchovies shred1 some ,cloves1 and ,mace4 ,when these have boiled half a quarter of an ,hour1 take out the ,onion1 and ,lemon1 and thicken your ,liquor1 with about three ,pounds of ,butter1 rub'd in a little ,flour2 then put in the ,body of a ,crab1 or ,lobster1 ,shrimps1 ,oysters1 and ,mushrooms1 and it is ready to pour over your ,fish3 but some rather chuse to serve this ,sauce in ,basons1 lest it be too high for every ,palate4 ,however1 when you have disposed your ,fish well in the ,dish1 garnish with fry'd ,bread1 ,horse-,radish scraped1 fry'd ,parsley1 ,lemon sliced and pickled1 red ,beet-,root sliced1 and serve it up hot4 ,if your ,sauce is serv'd in ,basons2 then take care to have one ,bason of plain ,butter3 but if all your ,company happens to like the rich ,sauce1 your ,dish of fish will make a much better appearance to have some of the ,sauce pour'd over it1 before you lay on your ,garnish4 ,remember to lay your ,spitchcot ,eels near the edge of the ,dish4 ,to broil ,herrings1 so as to prevent their rising in the ,stomach4 ,from the same4 ,take fresh ,herrings1 scale them1 gut them1 and wash them2 and when they are well dry'd with a ,cloth1 strew them with flour of ,ginger1 as you would any ,fish with ,flour1 then broil them2 and when they are enough1 the taste of the ,ginger is quite lost3 then serve them with ,claret1 ,butter1 ,salt1 and ,mustard1 made into a ,sauce1 and they will not at all disturb the ,stomach4 ,a white ,fricassee of ,rabbits4 ,from the same4 ,take three or four young ,rabbits and cut them to pieces1 then put them in a ,stew-pan1 with four ,ounces of ,butter2 then season them with some ,lemon-,peel grated1 a little ,thyme1 a little sweet ,marjoram1 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and a little ,jamaica1 ,pepper beaten fine4 ,let these be close cover'd1 and stew them gently1 till they are tender2 then take about half a ,pint of ,veal-,broth1 an ,onion1 some ,lemon1 a ,sprig of sweet ,marjoram1 and some ,spice1 to your mind1 and put to it half a ,gill of ,white ,wine4 ,boil these together six or seven ,minutes1 then pour away the ,butter1 in the ,stew-pan1 and strain your ,veal ,gravey through a ,sieve2 then beat the ,yolks of four ,eggs1 with half a ,pint of ,cream4 ,then put some of the ,broth1 by degrees1 to the ,eggs and ,cream1 keeping them stirring1 lest they curdle1 and you may put to it some ,parsley boil'd tender1 and shred small2 then put it to the ,rabbits1 and toss them up thick with ,butter1 adding some pickled ,mushrooms1 and serve them hot with a ,garnish of sliced ,lemon1 and red ,beet-,root pickled4 ,a ,neat's-,tongue roasted4 ,from the same4 ,take a large ,neat's-,tongue1 that has lain three ,weeks in ,salts mixed in the following manner4 ,take a quarter of a ,pound of ,salt-,petre1 half a ,pound of ,bay-,salt1 and three ,pints of common ,salt4 ,this is enough to salt four ,tongues3 let them be rubb'd well with this ,mixture1 and kept in a cool place4 ,take1 ,i say1 one of these ,tongues1 and boil it till the ,skin will come off2 and when it is stript of its ,skin1 stick it with ,cloves1 about an ,inch asunder1 then put it on a ,spit1 and wrap a ,veal-,cawl over it1 till it is enough2 then take off the ,cawl1 and just froth it up1 and serve it in a ,dish with ,gravey4 ,note1 ,the ,cawl will keep the outside tender1 which otherwise would be hard4 ,one must serve with it1 in ,saucers1 of the following3 ,grate a ,penny-,loaf into about a ,pint of ,water1 and half as much ,claret2 then boil it thick1 with two or three chips of ,cinnamon1 then sweeten it to your mind1 as you please3 strew some sifted raspings of ,bread about the ,dish1 and garnish with ,lemon sliced4 ,to dress a ,cow-,heel4 ,from the same4 ,take out the ,bones1 and clean it1 cut it to pieces1 and wash it2 then flour it1 and strew over it a little ,pepper and ,salt1 then fry it brown in ,hog's-,lard1 made very hot in the ,pan4 ,prepare at the same time some small ,onions boiled whole1 till they are tender1 and pull off as many of the ,coats or ,skins1 till you see them pure white2 then make a ,sauce of ,gravey1 some ,white-,wine1 ,nutmeg1 and a little whole ,spice1 with a little ,salt and ,pepper1 and thicken it with burnt ,butter4 ,let your ,onions1 when they are skin'd1 be made hot in ,milk1 and lay them whole in the ,dish1 with the ,cow-,heel1 and pour the ,sauce over the whole4 ,some who have strong ,stomachs will slice ,onions1 and flouring them well1 fry them with with the ,cow-,heel1 but this must be fry'd in ,butter4 ,to make ,marmalade of ,quinces4 ,from the same4 ,take the large ,portugal ,quinces1 pare them1 and take out the ,cores2 then cut each ,quince in eight ,parts1 and throw them in ,water2 then boil the ,parings1 and such of the ,quinces as are of the worse sort1 in two ,quarts of ,water1 till the ,liquor is reduced to half the quantity3 when this is strain'd1 put the ,liquor into your ,preserving-,pan1 with a ,pound of fine ,sugar powder'd1 with two ,pounds of ,quinces3 boil these gently1 till they are tender4 ,then if you design your ,marmalade for mixing with ,apples in ,pyes or ,tarts1 put to them a ,pound more of ,sugar to each two ,pounds2 break them with a ,spoon1 and boil them briskly1 keeping them stirring all the while3 then put them hot into the ,gally-pot1 when they are thick1 and of a reddish ,colour4 ,to heighten their redness1 and keep them from burning to the bottom1 put into the ,pan four or five pieces of pure ,tin1 as big as ,half-,crowns4 ,but if you would have your ,marmalade fine for ,glasses1 then1 when they are boil'd tender1 take them out of the ,liquor1 and beat them well in a ,marble ,mortar1 and rub them through a ,sieve2 then put to them a ,pound of fine ,sugar1 and stir them well in the ,liquor2 boil them quick1 stirring them all the while1 till they grow thick4 ,memorandum1 ,while they are boiling the second time1 put in some pieces of ,tin1 as before1 and when they are enough1 pour them hot into your ,glasses or ,cups1 first taking out the ,pieces of ,tin2 and when your ,marmalade is cool1 cover your ,glasses and ,cups with white ,paper4 ,boil'd ,tench4 ,from the same4 ,take ,tench1 fresh from the ,pond1 gut them1 and clear them from their ,scales2 then put them into a ,stew-pan1 with as much ,water as will cover them1 some ,salt1 some whole ,pepper1 some ,lemon-,peel1 a stick of ,horse ,radish1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and a few ,cloves2 then boil them till they are tender1 and when they are enough1 take some of the ,liquor1 and put to it a ,glass of ,white ,wine1 and a little ,lemon-juice1 or ,verjuice1 and an ,anchovy shred4 ,then boil it a few ,minutes1 and thicken it with ,butter rubb'd in ,flour1 tossing up a ,pint of ,shrimps with the ,sauce1 and pour it over the ,fish4 ,serve it with garnish of fry'd ,bread1 cut the length of one's ,finger1 some ,slices of ,lemon and ,horse-,radish scraped1 with some pickled ,mushrooms1 if you will1 or you may toss up some of them in the ,sauce4 ,to bake ,tench4 ,from ,lady ,g4 ,take your ,tench1 fresh from the ,pond1 gut them1 and clean them from the ,scales2 then kill them1 by giving them an hard stroke on the back of the ,head1 or else they will live for many ,hours1 and even jump out of the ,pan in the ,oven1 when they are half enough4 ,then lay them in a ,pan1 with some ,mushroom ,katchep1 some strong ,gravey1 half a ,pint of pickled ,mushrooms1 as much ,white-,wine as ,gravey1 three or four large ,shallots1 an ,anchovy or two1 two or three slices of fat ,bacon1 some ,pepper1 ,cloves1 and ,nutmeg1 at pleasure1 a little ,salt1 some ,lemon-,peel1 and a bunch of sweet ,herbs2 then break some bits of ,butter1 and lay them on your ,fish1 then cover all as close as you can1 and give them an ,hour's baking4 ,when they are enough1 lay them in a hot ,dish1 and pour off the ,liquor1 and strain it1 only preserving the ,mushrooms2 then add to it a spoonful of ,lemon-,juice1 and thicken your ,sauce with the ,yolks of four ,eggs1 beaten with ,cream1 and mix'd1 by degrees1 with the ,sauce4 ,pour this over your ,fish1 and serve it hot with a ,garnish of ,beet,roots sliced1 some slices of ,lemon-,peel1 and some ,horse-,radish scraped4 ,to roast a ,westphalia-,ham4 ,from the same4 ,boil a ,westphalia-,ham1 as tender as it will be1 with the ,gravey in it2 then strip off the ,skin1 put it on a ,spit1 and having done it over with the ,yolk of an ,egg1 strew it all over with raspings or chippings of ,bread finely sifted1 and mixt with a little ,lemon-,peel grated4 ,baste it well when it is before the ,fire1 and drudge it frequently with the above ,mixture till it is enough4 ,some1 instead of ,roasting it1 will prepare it1 with a good covering of the aforesaid ,mixture1 and set it an ,hour in the ,oven1 which answers full as well4 ,then serve it1 with boiled ,pidgeons1 ,russia ,cabbages1 if you can get them1 or ,sprouts of ,cabbages1 curll'd1 as big as ,tennis-,balls1 or ,collyflowers1 or ,brocoli4 ,this is an excellent ,dish1 especially1 if the ,cabbages1 or ,collyflowers1 are toss'd up with ,butter and ,cream1 but the ,brocoli must only have the ,butter pour'd over them4 ,a ,neck of ,mutton and ,broth4 ,from ,l4 ,p4 ,esq4 ,the ,method of this ,broth was first from a mistake1 where instead of boiling a ,neck of ,mutton1 as directed1 the ,cook roasted it4 ,the ,gentleman was in a hurry for it1 and call'd in half an ,hour for his ,neck of ,mutton and ,broth2 but the ,cook had only that ,neck in the ,house2 which she was roasting1 and was then above half done3 however1 she takes it from the ,spit1 and cut it in pieces1 which she presently set over the ,fire1 with the ,gravey that came from it1 with a small quantity of ,water1 and serv'd it up with some ,turnips1 as soon as possible4 ,the ,relish which the ,meat had gain'd by roasting1 gave the ,broth so good a flavour1 that it is recommended since that time1 by the ,gentlemen who eat of it1 where-ever they go2 but with this addition1 that they take four or five ,hertfordshire ,turnips1 pare them1 and cut them in dice2 then boil them in the ,liquor with the half roasted ,mutton2 and when they are enough1 take them out of the ,liquor1 and draining them a little1 flour them1 and adding a little ,salt1 fry them either in ,butter very hot1 or in ,hog's-,lard1 and then serve them with ,pottage4 ,boil'd ,venison1 with its ,furniture4 ,from ,mr4 ,l4 ,l4 ,take an ,haunch of ,venison1 salt it well1 and let it remain a ,week1 then boil it1 and serve it with a furniture of ,collyflowers1 ,russia ,cabbages1 some of the ,hertfordshire ,turnips cut in dice1 and boiled in a ,net1 and toss'd up with ,butter and ,cream1 or else have some of the yellow ,french ,turnips1 cut in dice1 and boil'd like the former2 or we might add some red ,beet-,roots boiled in dice1 and butter'd in the same manner4 ,place these regularly1 and they will afford a pleasant ,variety both to the ,eye and the ,taste4 ,frogs1 a white ,fricassee of them4 ,from ,mr4 ,ganeau4 ,take large ,frogs1 and cut off the hinder ,legs1 strip them of the ,skin1 and cut off the ,feet1 and boil them tender in a little ,veal-,broth1 with whole ,pepper1 and a little ,salt1 with a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and some ,lemon ,peel4 ,stew these with a ,shallot1 till the ,flesh is a little tender2 then strain off the ,liquor1 and thicken it with ,cream and ,butter2 then serve them hot with the ,cream1 and some ,mushrooms pickled1 toss'd up with the ,sauce1 they make a very good ,dish1 and their ,bones being of a very fine ,texture1 are better to be eaten than those of ,larks4 ,but we have in many ,places an ,aversion to them1 as1 in some others1 some ,people have to ,mushrooms4 ,frogs1 in a brown ,fricassee4 ,from the same4 ,prepare the ,frogs as before1 and flour them well2 then put them into a ,pan of hot ,lard1 and fry them brown4 ,then take them and drain them from the ,liquor they were fry'd in1 and make a ,sauce for them of good ,gravey1 some ,lemon-,peel1 a ,shallot or two1 some ,spice beaten1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 an ,anchovy1 some pickled ,mushrooms and their ,liquor1 and some ,pepper and ,salt4 ,toss up these1 thick with ,butter1 and pour the ,sauce over them1 putting first a little ,claret to it1 and some ,lemon-,juice4 ,garnish with broiled ,mushroom-,flaps1 and ,lemon sliced4 ,snails1 to be dressed with white ,sauce4 ,from the same4 ,take the large ,german ,snail1 early in the ,morning2 put them1 shells and all1 into ,salt and ,water1 for a few ,hours1 till they purge themselves3 then put them into fresh ,salt and ,water1 for a few ,hours more1 and repeat that a third time1 then give them a gentle boil in ,water and4 ,salt1 in their ,shells1 and you may then pick them out1 with a ,pin1 as you do ,perwinkles1 ,then stew them in ,veal-,broth1 with some ,cloves1 a little ,sack1 some ,mace1 and a little ,salt4 ,stew these a little while1 and then pour over them this ,sauce thicken'd with ,cream and ,butter1 and grate some ,nutmeg upon the ,sauce1 and serve them hot4 ,snails1 to be drest with brown ,sauce4 ,from the same4 ,take the same sort of ,snail1 as above mention'd1 and clean it as before2 then give them one turn1 when they are flour'd1 in some hot ,butter1 or ,lard1 and drain them4 ,then pour into the ,pan1 when1 the ,liquor is out1 some strong ,gravey1 a ,glass of ,claret1 some ,nutmeg1 some ,spices1 and a little ,salt1 with a little ,lemon-,peel grated2 and when the ,sauce is strong enough1 then strain the ,sauce1 and thicken it with burnt ,butter4 ,then serve them up hot1 with a ,garnish of sliced ,lemon1 and some ,sippits fry'd in ,lard4 ,a ,gammon of a ,badger roasted4 ,from ,mr4 ,r4 ,t4 of ,leicestershire4 ,the ,badger is one of the cleanest ,creatures1 in its ,food1 of any in the ,world1 and one may suppose that the ,flesh of this ,creature is not unwholesome4 ,it eats like the finest ,pork1 and is much sweeter than ,pork4 ,then1 just when a ,badger is killed1 cut off the ,gammons1 and strip them2 then lay them in a ,brine of ,salt and ,water1 that will bear an ,egg1 for a ,week or ten ,days2 then boil it for four or five ,hours1 and then roast it1 strewing it with ,flour and rasped ,bread sifted4 ,then put it upon a ,spit1 as you did before with the ,westphalia ,ham4 ,serve it hot with a ,garnish of ,bacon fry'd in ,cutlets1 and some ,lemon in slices4 ,to make minc'd ,pyes1 or ,christmas-,pyes4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,c4 ,take an ,ox-,heart1 and parboil it1 or a ,neat's-,tongue1 boil'd without drying or salting1 or the ,inside of a ,surloin of ,beef2 chop this small1 and put to each ,pound two ,pounds of clean ,beef-,suet1 cleaned of the ,skins and ,blood1 and chop that as small as the former2 then pare1 and take the ,cores out of eight large ,apples1 and chop them small1 grate then a ,two-penny-,loaf2 and then add two or three ,nutmegs grated1 half an ,ounce of fresh ,cloves1 as much ,mace1 a little ,pepper and ,salt1 and a ,pound and a half of ,sugar2 then grate in some ,lemon and ,orange-,peel1 and squeeze the ,juice of six ,oranges1 and two ,lemons1 with half a ,pint of ,sack1 and pour this into the ,mixture4 ,take care to put in two ,pounds of ,currans to every ,pound of ,meat1 and mix it well2 then try a little of it over the ,fire1 in a ,sauce-pan1 and as it tastes1 so add what you think proper to it3 put this in an earthen glaz'd ,pan1 and press it down1 and you may keep it till ,candlemas1 if you make it at ,christmas4 ,memorandum1 ,when you put this into your ,pyes1 press it down1 and it will be like a ,paste4 ,when you take these ,pyes out of the ,oven1 put in a ,glass of ,brandy1 or a ,glass of ,sack or ,white ,wine1 into them1 and stir it in them4 ,plum-,pottage1 or ,christmas-,pottage4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,leg of ,beef1 and boil it till it is tender in a sufficient quantity of ,water1 add two ,quarts of red ,wine1 and two ,quarts of old strong ,beer2 put to these some ,cloves1 ,mace1 and ,nutmegs1 enough to season it1 and boil some ,apples1 pared and freed from the ,cores into it1 and boil them tender1 and break them2 and to every ,quart of ,liquor1 put half a ,pound of ,currans pick'd clean1 and rubb'd with a coarse ,cloth1 without washing4 ,then add a ,pound of ,raisins of the ,sun1 to a ,gallon of ,liquor1 and half a ,pound of ,prunes4 ,take out the ,beef1 and the ,broth or ,pottage will be fit for use4 ,amber-,rum1 from ,barbadoes2 an extra-ordinary way of making it1 from that ,country4 ,take the ,preparation of the ,scum and ,dregs of the ,sugar-,canes4 ,let them ferment1 and distil them with the ,leaves of the ,platanus1 or ,plain-,tree2 then put them into a ,still again1 and hang some ,amber powder'd1 in a ,muslin ,bag1 in the ,cap of the ,still1 and let all the ,steam pass through that1 and it will be incomparable good ,rum4 ,a boiled ,goose with its ,garniture4 ,from the same4 ,take a young fat ,goose1 and salt it1 and pepper it1 for four ,days or a ,week2 then boil it as you would do other ,victuals1 till it is tender2 then take it from the ,pot1 and put about it some ,hertfordshire ,turnips boiled1 being first cut in dice1 some ,carrots boiled1 and cut in dice1 some small ,cabbage-,sprouts1 some red ,beet-,roots cut in dice1 some ,french yellow ,turnips cut in dice1 or such other ,roots1 or ,herbs1 as you like best4 ,collyflowers1 if they are in season1 will do well2 but they must all be toss'd up with ,cream and ,butter1 except the ,hertfordshire ,turnips1 which should1 after they are boiled1 be dry'd in a ,cloth1 and well flour'd2 then fry them in hot ,lard1 or hot ,butter1 drain them well1 and serve them with the same ,sauce4 ,memorandum1 ,if you have any of the yellow ,french ,turnips1 cut them in dice to boil1 and when they are enough1 treat them in the same manner as you are directed1 for the ,hertfordshire ,turnips4 ,take care in the buying of the ,hertfordshire ,turnips1 for they are all white2 but they require a longer boiling than the red-ringed ,turnips3 the red-rings are soft presently1 when they are good1 and the others are near an ,hour in boiling1 and1 even then1 feel hard to the ,spoon4 ,viper-,soup4 ,from ,mr4 ,ganeau4 ,take ,vipers1 alive1 and skin them1 and cut off their ,heads2 then cut them in pieces1 about two ,inches in length1 and boil them1 with their ,hearts1 in about a ,gallon of ,water to eight ,vipers1 if they are pretty large4 ,put into the ,liquor a little ,pepper and ,salt1 and a ,quart of ,white ,wine to a ,gallon of ,liquor2 then put in some ,spice1 to your mind1 and chop the following ,herbs1 and put into it3 ,take some ,chervill1 some white ,beet-,cards or ,leaves1 some ,hearts of ,cabbage-,lettuce1 a ,shallot1 some ,spinach-,leaves1 and some ,succory4 ,boil these1 and let them be tender2 then serve it up hot1 with a ,french ,roll in the middle1 and garnish with the raspings of ,bread sifted1 and slices of ,lemon4 ,ketchup1 in ,paste4 ,from ,bencoulin in the ,east-,indies4 ,there is a ,kidney-,bean1 we have here1 which has a fine relish in it1 as the ,indians say1 but in fact there is none but what they give it by ,art4 ,this ,bean1 when it is full ripe1 is taken out of the ,shells1 and boiled to a ,pulp1 and that ,pulp strain'd till it becomes like ,butter2 then they put some of all the ,spices into it1 in ,powder1 as1 ,nutmeg1 ,cloves1 ,mace1 and ,pepper1 ,garlick1 and ,orange-,juice1 or some ,mango ,pickle4 ,this being well mix'd together1 makes an agreeable ,sauce1 when it is put in any warm ,liquor4 ,to dry ,plums with ,sugar4 ,from ,mr4 ,girarde4 ,take large white or red ,plums1 such as the white ,holland's-,plum1 the ,bonum magnum1 the ,royal ,dolphin or ,imperial ,plum4 ,cut these1 and take out the ,stones1 and to every ,pound of ,plums1 put three quarters of a ,pound of ,sugar3 boil your ,sugar with a little ,water1 to a candy height2 then put in your ,plums1 and boil them gently on a slow ,fire2 then set them by to cool1 and then boil them afresh1 taking care that they do not break2 then let them lie in their ,syrup1 three or four ,days1 and then lay them upon ,sieves1 to dry1 in a warm ,oven1 turning them upon clean ,sieves1 twice a day1 till they are dry4 ,then wash them off the clamminess of the ,sugar with warm ,water1 and dry them again in the ,oven2 and when they are cold1 put them up in ,boxes1 with ,papers between them1 and keep them in a dry ,place4 ,to make small ,almond-,cakes4 ,from the same4 ,take some ,orange-,flower-,water1 or ,rose-,water1 with about two ,grains of ,amber-,gris1 and beat these with a ,pound of blanched ,almonds1 in a ,marble ,mortar2 then take a ,pound of fine ,sugar powder'd1 and finely sifted1 and put most of it to the ,almonds1 when they are well beaten1 and mix it well4 ,then make your ,cakes1 and lay them on ,wafers1 and set them in a gentle ,oven1 on tin ,plates2 and when they are half baked1 boil what ,sugar you have left1 with some ,rose-,water1 to a candy height1 and1 with a ,feather1 wash the ,cakes over with this ,liquor1 and close your ,oven1 and let them stand a few ,minutes longer4 ,to preserve ,bullace4 ,from the same4 ,take your ,bullace before the ,frost has taken them2 let them be fresh gather'd1 and clear ,fruit1 scald them in ,water3 then take their weight in fine ,sugar1 with a little ,water1 and boil it to a ,syrup2 then put in your ,bullace1 and boil them till the ,syrup is very thick1 and your ,fruit very clear4 ,to preserve green ,peaches4 ,from the same4 ,in some ,gardens1 where the ,trees are pruned and ordered1 by a skilful hand1 it is often that a ,tree will be so full of ,fruit1 that it is necessary to take away some1 when they are green1 that the others may swell the better4 ,as this sometimes happens with ,peaches1 so ,i shall here direct how to preserve them4 ,scald your green ,peaches in ,water1 then1 with a ,cloth1 rub the ,down from them2 then put them1 in more ,water1 over a slow ,fire1 and let them stew till they are green1 keeping them cover'd4 ,then take their weight in fine ,sugar1 and with some ,water1 boil it to a ,syrup1 taking off the ,scum as it rises2 then put in your ,peaches1 and boil them till they are clear1 and put them up1 with the ,syrup1 in ,glasses1 or ,gally-pots2 and when they are cold1 cover them with ,paper4 ,note1 ,you must gather your ,peaches before the ,stone is hard in them1 which you may know by putting a ,pin through them4 ,to preserve ,goosberries4 ,from the same4 ,the best ,goosberries1 for this ,work1 are the white ,dutch ,goosberry1 and the ,walnut-,goosberry4 ,take these1 just when they are beginning to turn ripe1 pick off the ,flower-tuft at the ,ends1 and stone them2 then take to every ,pound of ,fruit1 one ,pound and a quarter of fine ,sugar beaten and sifted4 ,boil the ,sugar with a little ,water to a ,syrup1 taking off the ,scum as it rises2 then put in your ,fruit1 and boil them quick till they are clear1 and put them in ,glasses1 boiling the ,syrup a little more2 then pour it upon them1 and when it is cold1 cover your ,glasses close with ,paper4 ,to candy ,eringo-,roots4 ,from ,mr4 ,lufkin of ,colchester4 ,take the fairest ,roots of ,eringo1 fresh taken out of the ,ground1 wash them clean1 and boil them in several ,waters till they are very tender3 wash them again1 and rub them with a ,cloth1 to dry as much as they will bear1 without breaking1 or bruising2 slit them1 and take out the ,pith1 and twist two together1 like a ,screw4 ,then take to every ,pound of ,root two ,pounds of fine ,sugar powder'd1 of which ,sugar take one ,pound at first1 and boil it with some ,rose-,water1 to a ,syrup2 and then put in your ,roots1 and boil them till they are clear2 then wet the rest of your ,sugar with ,rose-,water1 and boil it to a candy ,height2 then put in the ,roots1 and let them boil1 shaking them often over the ,fire1 and when you think they are enough1 take them from the ,fire1 and shake them till they are cold1 and almost dry2 then lay them upon ,dishes to dry thoroughly1 and when they are done1 put them up in ,boxes with white ,paper1 under and over them1 then keep them in a dry place4 ,to preserve ,grapes in ,syrup4 ,from the same4 ,the best ,grapes for this use1 are those of the ,fronteniac ,kind1 of which there are the white and the blue1 and the red1 which seldom come to ripen in ,england1 with their pure flavour4 ,but as ,heat is the occasion of ripening2 so1 though they want it with us1 from the ,sun1 we may make good that deficiency by ,fire1 which will answer the end fully1 and bring them to the highest perfection of ,taste1 therefore the ,sweet-meat made of these is excellent2 besides these ,grapes for preserving1 the ,st4 ,peter and the ,warner ,grapes are very good1 and ,i may mention the grizled ,fronteniac1 which is a noble ,grape1 when it is ripe1 as well as the others4 ,and for the other ,sorts of ,grapes1 they are not fit for preserving1 unless ,i take in the ,raisin ,grapes1 red and white1 and the ,lombardy ,grape2 all which are full of ,pulp1 and seldom ripen4 ,these are your sorts1 and now to proceed4 ,take your ,grapes1 gather'd in a dry ,day1 though they are not ripe4 ,you may guess when we come to the end of ,september1 and they are not so1 they never will be ripe3 pick them then from the ,stalks1 and stone them carefully1 without breaking much of the ,skin1 save the ,juice2 then take the weight of them in fine ,sugar powder'd1 and boil your ,sugar with some ,water1 wherein ,pippins have been boiled before1 first straining your ,water1 and boil them to ,syrup1 taking off the ,scum as it rises4 ,and when the ,scum rises no more1 put in your ,grapes1 and boil them quick till they are as clear as ,crystal1 ,i mean the white ,grapes2 but the red ,sorts1 let them boil till they are clear1 and that the ,syrup will jelly2 then put them into ,glasses1 and when they are cold1 cover them close with white ,paper2 but mark your ,papers1 which are of the ,fronteniac ,kinds1 for they will have a very different ,flavour from the other ,sorts1 an high richness that is much admired4 ,however1 though the other ,kinds of ,grapes1 mention'd in this ,receipt1 may want a flavour by themselves1 you may add some ,orange-,flower ,water to the ,syrup1 you make for them1 which will give them a fine taste4 ,n4,b4 ,take care that when you make this ,preserve1 you use only one sort at one time4 ,to dress a ,calf's-,head in a grand ,dish4 ,from ,mrs4 ,e4 ,sympson4 ,take a large ,calf's-,head1 and divide it1 cut off the ,muzzle1 and wash it well2 then take the ,brains1 and wash them1 and dry them1 and flour them1 and put them in a ,cloth1 and tye them up4 ,boil these till they are half done2 then take them from the ,kettle1 and cut the ,flesh off one side of the ,head1 in slices1 like harsh'd ,meat1 and the other side of the ,head must remain whole1 and mark'd only with a sharp ,knife1 cross-ways4 ,the ,brains must lie till the rest are prepared4 ,take then the harsh'd part1 and with some of the ,liquor it was boil'd in1 put a ,glass of ,white ,wine1 a little ,mushroom ,ketchup1 a little ,nutmeg grated1 and a little ,mace beat fine1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 some grated ,lemon-,peel1 and stew them together with a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 and some ,butter4 ,when it is enough1 put in a little ,juice of ,lemon1 and thicken it with ,cream and ,butter1 in some of the same ,liquor1 with the ,liquor of ,oysters parboil'd1 a ,pint of ,oysters1 and as many pickled ,mushrooms1 which must be toss'd up with your ,sauce1 when you thicken it1 remembring to cut the ,eye in pieces1 amongst the ,harsh4 ,then for the other side of the ,head1 when you have cut the ,flesh cross ways1 in ,diamonds1 about an ,inch over1 beat the ,yolks of two or three ,eggs1 and with a ,feather past over it1 cover it with the ,yolks of ,eggs1 and then drudge upon it the following ,mixture4 ,take some ,raspings of ,bread sifted1 put to them some ,flour1 a little ,pepper and ,salt1 with some ,mace and ,nutmeg1 in powder1 and a little sweet ,marjoram powder'd1 or shred small4 ,mix these well together2 then set it in an ,oven1 with some bits of ,butter upon it1 till it is enough1 or before a brisk ,fire1 till the drudging is brown3 this must be laid in the middle of the ,dish1 and the ,harsh round it4 ,the ,brains must be cut in pieces1 and strew'd with a little red ,sage cut very small1 and a little ,spice and ,salt2 and then every piece1 dip'd in a thick ,batter1 made of ,eggs1 ,flour1 and ,milk4 ,fry these well in hot ,hog's-,lard1 or for want of that1 in hot melted ,beef-,suet2 then take ,oysters1 a little stew'd in their own ,liquor1 with ,mace1 and a little whole ,pepper2 take off their ,fins1 and dip them in the same ,batter1 and fry them as directed above for the ,brains4 ,there must be likewise some ,pieces of ,bread cut the length of one's ,finger1 and fry'd crisp2 all these are by way of ,garnish4 ,one may likewise boil some ,skirret-,roots1 and peel them1 and then dip them in the ,batter1 and fry them crisp4 ,as for the other part of the ,garnish1 it must be red ,beets pickled and sliced1 and ,lemon sliced4 ,calf's-,head-,pye4 ,from the same4 ,take a large ,calf's-,head1 divide it1 and when it is well cleaned1 boil it half enough2 then cut it in large slices1 and slit the ,eyes1 season it with ,nutmeg1 ,pepper1 ,salt1 and some powder of dry'd sweet ,herbs2 then lay it in your ,paste1 with some ,pepper and ,salt1 at the ,bottom1 with some bits of ,butter2 then put in the ,yolks of twelve hard ,eggs1 and a farced ,meat made in the following manner4 ,take some ,lean of ,veal1 shred it very small1 then take some ,eggs butter'd1 and a little ,pepper and ,salt1 with other ,spice beaten1 and some sweet ,herbs in powder4 ,mix this with the ,yolk or two of raw ,eggs beaten1 and make it into a ,paste4 ,then roll it into ,balls1 and lay a good number of them into the ,pye1 amongst the ,meat2 and1 if you will1 put in half a ,pound of ,currans well pick'd1 and only rubb'd in a ,cloth1 without washing4 ,then close your ,pye1 and just before it goes to the ,oven1 pour in a ,gill of ,white ,wine1 and half a ,pint of ,water2 bake it and serve it hot1 and you may add1 if you will1 the following ,liquor1 viz4 ,take half a ,pint of ,white ,wine1 and as much ,water1 with the ,juice of a ,lemon4 ,boil these together a ,minute or two1 then take the ,yolks of four ,eggs1 and beat them well1 a quarter of a ,pound of ,butter1 and as much ,sugar as you like to make it palatable4 ,then mix them well together1 taking care that it does not curdle1 and pour it into your ,pye just before you serve it4 ,note1 ,one may put into this ,pye1 ,cock's-,combs blanched1 and some ,citron or ,lemon-,peel candy'd1 if you design it for a sweet ,pye2 but it is very good1 whether we make it a sweet ,pye or not4 ,to bake a ,calf's-,head4 ,from the same4 ,take a ,calfs-,head1 wash it clean1 and divide it2 then beat the ,yolks of four or five ,eggs1 and beat them well1 and with a ,feather1 trace that ,liquor over the out-side of the ,head1 and strew over it some raspings of ,bread sifted1 some ,flour1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 some ,mace and ,nutmeg powder'd1 with some sweet ,herbs powder'd1 with a little ,sage shred small1 and the ,brains cut in pieces1 and dip'd in thick ,batter2 then cover the ,head with some bits of ,butter1 and pour in the ,pan some ,white-,wine and ,water1 with as much ,gravey1 and cover it close4 ,then bake it in a quick ,oven1 and when you serve it1 pour on some strong ,gravey1 and garnish with ,lemon sliced1 red ,beet-,root pickled and sliced1 and some fry'd ,oysters1 and fry'd ,bread4 ,to make ,spirit of ,lilley of the ,valley4 ,from ,norway4 ,n4,b4 ,this serves in the room of ,orange-,flower-,water1 in ',puddings1 and to perfume ,cakes2 though it is drank as a ,dram in ,norway4 ,gather your ,lilley-of-the-,valley ,flowers1 when they are dry1 and pick them from the ,stalks2 then put a ,quarter of a ,pint of them into a ,quart of ,brandy1 and so in proportion1 to infuse six or eight ,days2 then distil it in a cold ,still1 marking the ,bottles1 as they are drawn off1 which is first1 second and third1 c4 ,when you have distill'd them1 take the first1 and so on to the third or fourth1 and mix them together1 till you have as strong as you desire2 and then bottle them1 and cork them well1 putting a lump of ,loaf-,sugar into each ,bottle4 ,things to be provided1 when any great ,family is going into the ,country1 for a ,summer4 ,from ,mr4 ,r4 ,s4 ,nutmegs4 ,mace4 ,cinnamon4 ,cloves4 ,pepper4 ,ginger4 ,jamaica-,pepper4 ,raisins4 ,currans4 ,sugar ,lisbon4 ,sugar-,loaf ,lump4 ,sugar double-refin'd4 ,prunes4 ,oranges4 ,lemons4 ,anchovies4 ,olives4 ,capers4 ,oil for ,salads4 ,vinegar4 ,verjuice4 ,tea4 ,coffee4 ,chocolate4 ,almonds4 ,chesnuts4 ,french ,pears4 ,sir1 ,i send you this as a ,memorandum1 because when some ,people go into the ,country1 many of these ,things may be forgot1 and it is sometimes the ,case1 that one must send a ,mile or two for what is wanted of them4 ,i am ,yours1 ,r4 ,s4 ,to salt a ,ham in imitation of ,westphalia1 c4 ,take an ,ham of young ,pork1 and sprinkle it with ,salt for one ,day1 that the ,blood may come out2 then wipe it dry1 and rub it with the following ,mixture4 ,take a ,pound of brown ,sugar1 a quarter of a ,pound of ,salt-,petre1 half a ,pint of ,bay-,salt1 and three ,pints of common ,salt4 ,mix all these together1 and stir them in an ,iron ,pan1 over the ,fire1 till they are pretty hot1 and then rub your ,ham with it4 ,turn your ,ham often1 and let it lie three ,weeks2 then dry it in a ,chimney with ,deal ,saw-,dust4 ,to make artificial ,anchovies4 ,from ,mr4 ,james ,randolph of ,richmond4 ,about ,february you will find1 in the ,river of ,thames1 a large quantity of ,bleak1 or in ,august a much larger parcel in ,shoals4 ,these ,fish are soft1 tender1 and oily1 and much better than ,sprats to make any imitation of ,anchovies from4 ,take these1 and clean them1 and cut off their ,heads1 and lay them in an earthen glazed ,pan1 with a ,layer of ,bay-,salt under them1 and another over1 a single ,row of them2 then lay a fresh row of ,fish1 and ,bay-,salt over that2 and so continue the same ,stratum super ,stratum1 till the ,vessel is full1 and in a ,month you may use them1 and afterwards put ,vinegar to them4 ,but they will be like ,anchovies without ,vinegar1 only the ,vinegar will keep them4 ,turn them often the first ,fortnight4 ,apple-,dumplings in an extraordinary way4 ,from ,mrs4 ,johnson4 ,take ,golden-,rennets ripe1 pare them1 and take out their ,cores2 then cut the ,apples into small pieces1 and with a large ,grater1 grate in a ,quince1 when it has been pared and cored3 for if you was to slice in a ,quince1 to your ,apples1 in large pieces1 the ,quince would not be boil'd equally with the ,apples2 for the ,quince is of a tough ,nature1 and will not boil under twice the time that the ,apples will3 therefore to grate them1 will be enough to give their flavour to the ,apple1 and make all enough at one time4 ,put what ,sugar you think proper into each ,dumpling1 when you take it up1 and the necessary quantity of ,butter4 ,it will then cat like a ,marmalade of ,quince4 ,note1 ,the ,crust1 or ,paste1 for these ,dumplings1 must be of a ,puff-,paste made with ,butter1 rubb'd into ,flour1 and for some other ,parts of the ,butter1 break them into the ,paste1 and roll them three times1 and put in the ,apples to the ,crust1 tying them into a ,cloth well flour'd1 and boiling them4 ,it may be understood before1 that when they are taken up hot1 the ,ceremony of sugaring and buttering is necessary4 ,apple-,dumplings made with ,sweet-meats4 ,from the same4 ,take fair ,apples ripe1 pare them1 and take out the ,cores2 then slice them thin1 and with a large ,grater1 grate in some candy'd ,orange or ,lemon-,peels1 and you may put in also some powder'd ,clove or ,cinnamon1 and a little grated ,quince1 or ,quince ,marmalade4 ,put these together1 the ,apples being first cut in small pieces1 into a ,puff-,paste1 and tye it up in a ,cloth4 ,these must be sweeten'd with ,lisbon-,sugar1 when they are taken up1 and melted ,butter pour'd in3 for if you use ,loaf-,sugar1 though it is powder'd1 some of it will be harsh in the ,mouth2 and the ,lisbon-,sugar1 which is the fattest sort of ,sugar1 will not1 but will give a good flavour to your ,fruit4 ,an ,hog barbecued1 or broil'd whole4 ,from ,vaux-,hall1 ,surrey4 ,take an ,hog of five or six ,months old1 kill it1 and take out the ,inwards1 so that the ,hog is clear of the ,harslet2 then turn the ,hog upon its ,back1 and from three ,inches below the place where it was stuck1 to kill it1 cut the ,belly in a strait ,line down to the ,bottom1 near the joining of the ,gammons2 but not so far1 but that the whole ,body of the ,hog may hold any ,liquor we would put into it4 ,then stretch out the ,ribs1 and open the ,belly1 as wide as may be2 then strew into it what ,pepper and ,salt you please4 ,after this1 take a large ,grid-,iron1 with two or three ,ribs in it1 and set it upon a stand of ,iron1 about three ,foot and a half high1 and upon that1 lay your ,hog1 open'd as above1 with the ,belly-side downwards1 and with a good clear ,fire of ,charcoal under it4 ,broil that side till it is enough1 flouring the ,back at the same time often4 ,memorandum1 ,this should be done in a ,yard1 or ,garden1 with a ,covering like a a ,tent over it4 ,when the ,belly-part of the ,hog is enough1 and turn'd upwards1 and well fix'd1 to be steady upon the ,grid-,iron1 or ,barbacue1 pour into the ,belly of the ,hog1 three or four ,quarts of ,water1 and half as much ,white-,wine1 and as much ,salt as you will1 with some ,sage cut small2 adding the ,peels of six or eight ,lemons1 and an ,ounce of fresh ,cloves whole4 ,then let it broil till it is enough1 which will be1 from the beginning to the end1 about seven or eight ,hours2 and when you serve it1 pour out the ,sauce1 and lay it in a ,dish1 with the ,back upwards4 ,memorandum1 ,the ,skin must not be cut before you lay it on the ,gridiron1 to keep in the ,gravey2 neither should any of the ,skin be cut1 when you have any ,pork roasted for the same ,reason4 ,beef1 or ,pork1 to be salted for boiling immediately1 from the ,shambles4 ,from ,mr4 ,j4 ,p4 ,chymist4 ,take any piece of ,beef you desire to boil1 or ,pork for the same1 dressing it fresh from the ,shambles1 or ,market1 and salt it very well1 just before you put it into the ,pot2 then as soon as your ,meat is salted1 take a coarse ,linnen ,cloth1 and flour it very well1 and then put the ,meat into it1 and tye it up close4 ,put this into a ,kettle of boiling ,water1 and boil it as long as you would any salt piece of ,beef of the same bigness1 and it will come out as salt as a piece of ,meat1 that had been salted four or five ,days3 but by this way of salting1 one ought not to have pieces of above five or six ,pounds weight4 ,n4,b4 ,if to half a ,pound of common ,salt you put an ,ounce of ,nitre1 or ,salt-,petre1 it will strike a redness into the ,beef2 but the ,salt-,petre must be beat fine1 and well mix'd with the common ,salt4 ,potatoe-,puddings1 made with ,sweet-meats4 ,from ,mr4 ,moring1 ,temple-,bar4 ,take some clean ,potatoes1 boil them tender1 and when they are so1 and clean from their ,skins1 break them in a ,marble ,mortar1 till they become a ,pulp2 then put to them1 or you might beat with them some slices of candy'd ,lemons and ,oranges1 and beat these together with some ,spices1 and ,lemon-,peel candy'd4 ,put to these some ,marrow1 and as much ,sugar1 with ,orange-,flower ,water1 as you think fit4 ,mix all together1 and then take some whole candy'd ,orange-,peels1 and stuff them full of the ,meat1 and set them upon a ,dish1 in a gentle ,oven2 and when they have stood half an hour1 serve them hot1 with a ,sauce of ,sack and ,butter1 and fine ,sugar grated over them4 ,potatoe-,pudding baked4 ,from ,mr4 ,shepherd of ,windmill-,street4 ,boil some fair ,potatoes till they are tender2 then1 when they are made clean1 bruise them in a ,marble ,mortar1 till they become a ,paste1 with some ,mace powder'd1 some ,sugar1 and the ,pulp of ,oranges1 with a ,naples ,biscuit or two grated in1 and a large ,carrot grated4 ,add to these some ,orange-,flower ,water2 and when all these are well mix'd1 put to them some butter'd ,eggs1 with some slices of ,butter laid upon your ,pudding1 when it is put into the ,dish1 or ,pan4 ,a little baking will serve for it2 and when it is enough1 serve it hot1 with a garnish of sliced ,lemon or ,orange4 ,some will put this into a ,paste1 but not cover it4 ,to make ,whipt ,syllabubs4 ,from ,mrs4 ,cater of ,salisbury4 ,to a ,pint of ,cream put a ,gill of ,canary-,wine1 and two ,ounces of ,loaf-,sugar finely beat1 and a slice or two of ,lemon2 then with a clean ,whisk1 whip it together1 adding a little ,milk1 as it grows thick3 then have your ,glasses clean1 and put into each of them three or four spoonfuls of any sorts of ,wine1 red in some1 and white in others1 sweeten'd with fine ,sugar powder'd2 then fill your ,glasses with the ,froth of your ,cream1 as it is whipt up4 ,of the fashionable ,tables1 for ,persons of ,rank1 or ,figure1 where five ,dishes are serv'd at a ,course4 ,from ,s4,g4 ,esq4 ,the ,tables ,i shall speak of1 are so order'd1 as to save a great deal of trouble to the ,mistress of the ,family1 as well as to the ,guests2 for with this ,table every one helps himself1 by turning any ,dish he likes before him1 without interrupting any body4 ,you must have first1 a large ,table with an hole in the ,middle1 of an ,inch ,diameter1 wherein should be fix'd a ,socket of ,brass well turn'd1 to admit of a ,spindle of ,brass1 that will turn easily in it4 ,the ,table ,i speak of1 may be1 ,i suppose1 five or six ,foot diameter2 and then have another ,table-board made just so large1 that as it is to act on the ,centre of the first ,table1 there may be near a foot vacancy for ,plates1 c4 on every side4 ,then fix the ,spindle of ,brass in the ,centre of the smaller ,table1 which ,spindle must be so long1 as1 that when one puts it in the ,socket of the great ,table-board1 the smaller turning ,table may be about four ,inches above the lower ,board2 so1 that in its turning about1 no ,salt1 or ,bread1 or any thing on the ,places1 may be disturb'd4 ,these ,tables have ,cloths made to each of them2 the upper1 or smaller ,table1 to have an whole ,cloth to cover it tight1 and fasten'd close1 so that none of the ,borders hang down2 and the ,cloth for the under ,table1 or great ,table1 must have an hole cut in the middle of it for the ,spindle of the upper ,table to pass thro' into the ,brass ,socket3 and when this is rightly order'd1 and every necessary ,furniture of the great1 or lower ,table1 set by every ,plate2 then the upper ,table1 which will turn1 may be furnish'd with ,meats4 ,it remains only then1 in some ,places1 for the ,lady of the ,house1 to offer the ,soup2 but after that1 every one is at liberty to help themselves1 by turning the upper ,table about1 to bring what they like1 before them4 ,i am ,yours1 ,s4 ,g4 ,the ,manner of killing and salting ,oxen1 in the hottest ,months1 for the ,sea1 that the ,beef may keep good4 ,from a ,contractor with the ,commissioners of the ,royal-,navy4 ,sir1 ,i have often read your ,books1 and particularly your ,lady's ,monthly ,director1 relating to the ,management of the several ,products of a ,farm1 but you have not taken notice of the ,preservation of ,flesh1 as ,i expected4 ,i send this therefore1 to inform you1 that upon the setting out of a ,fleet in ,june1 it was thought difficult to salt the ,beef2 but it was done1 to full ,satisfaction1 by the following ,method4 ,we killed an hundred ,oxen1 in ,june1 towards the ,close of the ,evening1 and let them hang up whole1 till the next ,evening3 then1 when the ,cool comes on1 cut out the ,messes1 and by every ,stand have a ,punchin of ,brine1 and throw them into it as soon as they are cut1 and in about three ,minutes after that1 take them out1 and salt them well4 ,note1 ,these ,pieces will by these means lose their bloody ,parts1 in great measure1 and be capacitated to receive the ,salt much better than otherways1 and then put them up4 ,memorandum1 ,we had not1 out of all this quantity1 above three ,pieces fail'd1 though the ,weather was extreme hot4 ,cheshire-,pye with ,pork4 ,from ,mr4 ,r4 ,j4 ,take some salt ,loin of ,pork1 or ,leg of ,pork1 and cut it into ,pieces1 like ,dice1 or as you would do for an ,harsh4 ,if it be boiled or roasted1 it is no matter2 then take an equal quantity of ,potatoes1 and pare them1 and cut them into dice1 or in slices4 ,make your ,pye-,crust1 and lay some ,butter1 in pieces1 at the bottom1 with some ,pepper and ,salt2 then put in your ,meat and ,potatoes1 with such seasoning as you like1 but ,pepper and ,salt commonly1 and on the ,top some pieces of ,butter4 ,then close your ,pye1 and bake it in a gentle ,oven1 putting in about a ,pint of ,water1 just before it is going into the ,oven2 for if you put in your ,water over ,night1 it will spoil your ,pye4 ,to bake ,herrings in an extraordinary manner4 ,from ,mrs4 ,m4 ,n4 of ,shrewsbury4 ,take fresh ,herrings1 and when they are scaled and cleaned1 put them in a glazed earthen ,vessel1 where they can lie straight2 then put in as much of the following ,liquor as will cover them1 viz4 an equal quantity of fine pale and old strong ,beer1 with ,vinegar1 which is the best1 or else all ,vinegar1 or as some do1 put two parts of ,vinegar and one of ,water2 any of these will do well4 ,then put in some ,bay-,salt1 such a quantity as you think will season it to your mind1 and to that a tenth part of ,salt-,petre1 which will not make it salt1 but give it a fine relish3 to these put two or three ,bay-,leaves1 a bunch of sweet ,herbs1 some ,cloves1 or ,jamaica ,pepper1 and some whole ,pepper2 then cover your ,pan1 and bake it in a quick ,oven1 with ,bread4 ,these must be eaten cold2 they are excellent for a ,country ,breakfast1 especially1 if they are warm of the ,spice1 and if they are well done1 the very ,bones will dissolve4 ,to draw ,gravey for a private ,family4 ,from the same4 ,take some fleshy part of ,beef1 without ,fat1 and cut it in pieces about the bigness of ,pidgeons ,eggs2 then flour it well1 and put it in a ,sauce-,pan1 with a little fresh ,lard1 or a little ,butter1 a little ,onion sliced1 some ,powder of sweet ,marjoram1 and a little ,pepper4 ,cover all close1 and stir it now and then till the ,gravey is come out enough1 and then pour on it some ,water1 when the ,gravey is brown1 and stir all together1 and let them boil some time2 then strain it off1 adding a little ,lemon-,juice4 ,another ,gravey1 for a private ,family1 where there is not an opportunity of getting ,beef to make it of4 ,take some ,butter1 and some ,onion1 cut small1 put it in a ,sauce-,pan1 and set it over the ,fire till the ,butter melts2 then drudge in some ,flour1 and stir it well1 till the ,froth sinks down1 and then it will be brown2 you must then have ready prepared the following ,mixture to throw in1 viz4 some good old ,beer1 and as much ,water1 an ,onion cut small1 some ,pepper and ,salt1 a small ,anchovy shred1 a little ,lemon-,peel grated1 a ,clove or two1 and1 if you have it1 a little ,mushroom ,liquor1 or ,liquor of pickled ,walnuts2 then let them all simmer together a little while1 and it will produce a thick good ,gravey4 ,the ,manner of ,trussing a ,rabbit for ,boiling4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #a ,cut the two ,haunches of the ,rabbit close by the ,back-,bone1 two ,inches1 and turn up the ,haunches1 by the ,sides of the ,rabbit2 skewer the ,haunches through the lower ,part of the ,back1 as at ,a2 then put a ,skewer through the utmost ,joint of the ,leg at ,b1 and so through the ,body1 and through the other ,leg1 so that the end of the ,leg reaches the ,shoulder-,blade4 ,then truss up the ,shoulders high1 and let the ,pinnions be carried back1 to take the ,legs at ,b1 and lie between them and the ,body2 and under the height of the ,pinnions1 put a ,skewer1 and bend the ,neck backwards1 and pass the ,skewer through all1 at ,c1 so that it supports the ,blade-,bone1 and holds the ,head up4 ,the ,manner of ,trussing a ,single ,rabbit for ,roasting4 ,from ,mr4 ,w4 ,n4 ,poulterer4 ,illustration3 ,fig1 #b ,you case the ,rabbit all1 excepting the lower ,joints of the four ,legs1 and those you chop off3 then pass a ,skewer through the middle of the ,haunches1 after you have laid them flat1 as at ,a2 and the ,fore-,legs1 which are called the ,wings1 must be turn'd1 as at ,b2 so that the smaller ,joint may be push'd into the ,body1 through the ,ribs4 ,this1 as a single ,rabbit1 has the ,spit pass'd through the ,body and ,head1 but the ,skewer takes hold of the ,spit to preserve the ,haunches4 ,but to truss a couple of ,rabbits1 there are seven ,skewers1 and then the ,spit passes only between the ,skewers1 without touching the ,rabbits4 ,to make a ,pheasant of a ,rabbit1 truss'd in such a manner1 that it will appear like a ,pheasant1 and eat like one1 with its ,sauce4 ,this is called1 by the topping ,poulterers1 a ,poland-,chicken1 or a ,portugal-,chicken4 ,but it is most like a ,pheasant1 if it is larded4 ,from ,mrs4 ,johnson1 at the famous ,eating-,house in ,devereux-,court near the ,temple4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #c ,take a young ,rabbit full grown2 case it all1 excepting the ,fore-,feet1 chop off them1 and the ,head1 as close as may be1 but strip the ,skin from the hind ,legs1 even to leave the ,claws on them4 ,these ,claws are not unlike the ,claws of a ,pheasant1 and some good ,judges may be deceiv'd by their first ,look1 for they are little different from the ,legs of the ,fowls we design to imitate4 ,then turn the ,neck-part of the ,rabbit1 the ,breast inwards1 to the ,scut or the ,rump1 leaving the ,rump somewhat short1 but to appear2 then will the ,rabbit appear in the ,shape above1 viz4 ,b is the ,scut1 or ,rump1 of the ,rabbit1 and ,c is where the ,neck comes2 then will the ,part mark'd ,f1 appear like the ,breast of a ,fowl3 but you must put up the stript ,legs of the ,rabbit1 over each side of the ,neck of it1 and tie all together1 with a ,string1 as mark'd ,h ,h4 ,so will the ,hind-,legs of the ,rabbit appear like the ,legs of a ,fowl1 and where you see the ,letter ,g mark'd1 the ,back of the ,rabbit is broken4 ,d1 is what represents the ,back-,side of the ,fowl1 and ,e is the ,appearance of the ,wings1 which are supposed to be stuck into the ,back1 where two large ,orifices are made1 but the ,bones of the ,wings1 of the ,rabbit1 must be taken out4 ,a1 shews the ,legs as they ought to be tied1 and ,o ,o ,directs to the ,points of the ,skewers which are to run through it4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #d ,fig4 #d4 will shew you the ,back of the same1 when it is truss'd1 with the ,appearance of the ,skewers1 o1 o1 o1 o1 with the ,orifices1 wherein are the supposed ,bones of the ,wings4 ,if this is larded on the ,breast1 ,i think it best1 and it should be served with the following ,sauce1 if it is roasted4 ,when this is thus prepared1 you may stick a ,pheasant's ,tail-,feather at the ,scut1 and roast it as you would do a ,pheasant1 basting it well with ,butter1 after it is drudg'd well with ,flour2 then make the following ,sauce for it4 ,take some strong ,gravey1 and put a little ,lemon-,peel into it1 with some ,spice1 and a little ,wine2 then take a few ,buttons of ,mushrooms pickled1 and thicken it with burnt ,butter1 so that the ,sauce becomes like one fit for a ,ragout1 or ,ragoo1 as the ,english pronounce it4 ,pour this over the ,fowl or ,rabbit1 which you please to call it1 and serve it hot1 with a ,garnish of ,lemon sliced1 and pickled ,red ,beet-,roots sliced4 ,of ,trussing a ,pidgeon4 ,from the same4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #e ,draw it1 but leave in the ,liver1 for that has no ,gall2 then push up the ,breast from the ,vent1 and holding up the ,legs1 put a ,skewer just between the bent of the ,thigh and the brown of the ,leg1 first having turn'd the ,pinnions under the ,back3 and see the lower ,joint of the biggest ,pinnions1 are so pass'd with the ,skewer1 that the ,legs are between them and the ,body1 as at ,a4 ,a ,goose to ,truss4 ,from the same4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #f ,a ,goose has no more than the thick ,joints of the ,legs and ,wings left to the ,body2 the ,feet1 and the ,pinnions being cut off1 to accompany the other ,giblets1 which consist of the ,head and ,neck1 with the ,liver and ,gizzard4 ,then at the bottom of the ,apron of the ,goose ,a1 cut an hole1 and draw the ,rump through it2 then pass a ,skewer through the small part of the ,leg1 through the ,body1 near the ,back1 as at ,b2 and another ,skewer through the thinnest part of the ,wings1 and through the ,body1 near the ,back1 as at ,c1 and it will be right4 ,the ,trussing of an ,easterling4 ,from ,mr4 ,w4 ,n4 ,poulterer of ,st4 ,james's-,market1 ,london4 ,illustration3 ,fig4#g ,a ,duck1 an ,easterling1 a ,teal1 and a ,widgeon1 are all trussed in the same manner4 ,draw it1 and lay aside the ,liver and ,gizzard1 and take out the ,neck1 leaving the ,skin of the ,neck full enough to spread over the ,place where the ,neck was cut off4 ,then cut off the ,pinnions at ,a1 and raise up the whole ,legs1 till they are upright in the middle of the ,fowl ,b1 and press them between the stump of the ,wings1 and the ,body of the ,fowl3 then twist the ,feet towards the ,body1 and bring them forwards1 with the bottom of the ,feet towards the ,body of the ,fowl1 as at ,c4 ,then take a ,skewer1 and pass it through the ,fowl1 between the lower ,joint1 next the ,foot1 and the ,thigh1 taking hold1 at the same time1 of the ends of the stumps of the ,wings ,a4 ,then will the ,legs1 as we have placed them1 stand upright4 ,d is the point of the ,skewer4 ,the ,manner of ,trussing a ,chicken like a ,turkey-,poult1 or of ,trussing a ,turkey-,poult4 ,from4 ,mr4 ,w4 ,n4 ,poulterer of ,st4 ,james's-,market4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #h ,take a ,chicken and cut a long slit down the ,neck1 on the ,fore-part2 then take out the ,crop and the ,merry-,thought1 as it is call'd2 then twist the ,neck1 and bring it down under the ,back1 till the ,head is placed on the side of the ,left-,leg2 bind the ,legs in1 with their ,claws on1 and turn them upon the ,back4 ,then between the bending of the ,leg and the ,thigh1 on the ,right side pass a ,skewer through the ,body of the ,fowl2 and when it is through1 run the ,point through the ,head1 by the same ,place of the ,leg1 as you did before1 as at ,a3 you must likewise pull the ,rump ,b through the ,apron of the ,fowl4 ,note1 ,the ,neck is twisted like a ,cord1 and the boney part of it must be quite taken out1 and the ,under-,jaw of the ,fowl taken away2 neither should the ,liver and ,gizzard be served with it1 though1 the ,pinnions are left on4 ,then turn the ,pinnions behind the ,back1 and pass a ,skewer through the extreme ,joint1 between the ,pinnion and the lower ,joint of the ,wing1 through the ,body1 near the ,back1 as at ,c1 and it will be fit to roast in the fashionable manner4 ,n4,b4 ,always mind to beat down the ,breast-,bone1 and pick the ,head and ,neck clean from the ,feathers before you begin to truss your ,fowl4 ,a ,turkey-,poult has no ,merry-,thought1 as it is called2 and therefore1 to imitate a ,turkey the better1 we take it out of a ,chicken through the ,neck4 ,illustration3 ,fig #i ,fig4 #i4 ,shews the ,manner how the ,legs and ,pinnions will appear when they are turn'd to the ,back2 as also1 the ,position of the ,head and ,neck of the ,chicken1 or ,turkey-,poult4 ,the manner of ,trussing an ,hare in the most fashionable ,way4 ,from ,mr4 ,w4 ,n4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aj ,case an ,hare1 and in casing it1 just when you come to the ,ears1 pass a ,skewer just between the ,skin and the ,head1 and by degrees raise it up till the ,skin leaves both the ,ears stript1 and then take take off the rest as usual4 ,then give the ,head a ,twist over the ,back1 that it may stand1 as at ,a1 putting two ,skewers in the ,ears1 partly to make them stand upright1 and to secure the ,head in a right ,disposition2 then push the ,joint of the ,shoulder-,blade1 up as high as may be1 towards the ,back1 and pass a ,skewer between the ,joints1 as at ,b1 through the bottom ,jaw of the ,hare1 which will keep it steady2 then pass another ,skewer through the lower ,branch of the ,leg at ,c1 through the ,ribs1 passing close by the ,blade-,bone1 to keep that up tight1 and another through the ,point of the same ,branch1 as at ,d1 which finishes the ,upper-,part4 ,then bend in both ,legs between the ,haunches1 so that their ,points meet under the ,scut1 and skewer them fast1 with two ,skewers1 as at ,o ,o4 ,a ,fowl trussed for ,boiling4 ,from ,mr4 ,w4 ,n4 ,poulterer1 c4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #aa ,when it is drawn1 twist the ,wings till you bring the ,pinnion under the ,back2 and you may1 if you will1 enclose the ,liver and ,gizzard1 one in each ,wing1 as at ,a1 but they are commonly left out4 ,then beat down the ,breast ,bone1 that it does not rise above the fleshy ,part2 then cut off the ,claws of the ,feet1 and twist the ,legs1 and bring them on the out-side of the ,thigh1 towards the ,wing1 as at ,b1 and cut an ,hole on each side the ,apron1 just above the ,sides-man1 and put the ,joints of the ,legs into the ,body of the ,fowl1 as at ,c3 so this is trussed without a ,skewer4 ,to ,truss a ,pheasant or ,partridge4 ,from the same4 ,illustration3 ,fig4 #ab ,both the ,pheasant and ,partridge are trussed the same way1 only the ,neck of the ,partridge is cut off1 and the ,neck and ,head of the ,pheasant is left on3 the ,plate above shews the ,pheasant trussed4 ,when it is drawn1 cut off the ,pinnions1 leaving only the stump-bone next the ,breast1 and pass a ,skewer through its ,point1 and through the ,body near the ,back1 and then give the ,neck a turn2 and passing it by the ,back1 bring the ,head on the outside of the other ,wing-,bone1 as at ,a1 and run the ,skewer through both1 with the ,head landing towards the ,neck1 or the ,rump1 which you please3 ,b is where the ,neck runs4 ,then take the ,legs1 with their ,claws on1 and press them by the ,joints together1 so as to press the lower ,part of the ,breast1 then press them down between the ,sides-men1 and pass a ,skewer through all1 as at ,c4 ,remember a ,partridge must have its ,neck cut off1 or else in every thing is trussed like a ,pheasant4 ,to boil an artificial ,pheasant1 with ,sellary4 ,from ,mrs4 ,johnson1 ,devereux-,court near ,temple-,bar4 ,prepare a ,rabbit in the same manner as above directed1 only it must not be larded2 then boil it1 and give it the following ,sauce4 ,take six or seven ,roots of ,sellary1 and boil them1 when they are well clean'd from ,dirt1 till they are tender1 then cut them into pieces of about two ,inches long1 and toss them up with strong ,gravey thicken'd with burnt ,butter4 ,pour this over the artificial ,pheasant1 and serve it hot1 well impregnated with ,spice4 ,then garnish it with ,lemon sliced1 or sliced ,orange1 and some fry'd ,bread1 and some ,slices of pickled red ,beet-,roots2 or round the ,edges of the ,dish1 strew some sifted raspings of ,bread4 ,,the ,,end4 99 99 99 99 99 ,,index ,,to ,,part ,,ii4 ,a4 ,anchovies1 how to keep a long time4 ,artificial ,lobster4 ,artificial ,ratefia4 ,abricots1 preserved in ,jelly4 ,ditto1 for ,tarts4 ,artificial ,creams4 ,abricots1 dry'd4 ,almond-,cakes1 small4 ,apple-,dumplings1 in an extraordinary way4 ,ditto1 another way4 ,anchovies1 artificial1 made4 ,b4 ,broil'd ,whitings4 ,beef1 to salt1 immediately4 ,beef1 hash'd raw4 ,biscuit1 of ,potatoes4 ,butter'd ,crabs4 ,barcelona-,snuff1 to make4 ,bacon-,froize4 ,brown ,fricassee of ,sheep's-,trotters4 ,bitters for ,wine4 ,brisket of ,beef1 to stew4 ,beef1 to stew1 in ,soup4 ,beef1 a ,rump1 to stew4 ,beet-,card ,tart4 ,beef-,collups1 from ,oxford4 ,beet-,steaks1 stew'd4 ,butter1 recover'd from ,oil4 ,bisque of ,fish4 ,badger1 its ,gammon roasted4 ,bullace1 preserv'd4 ,c4 ,cyprus-,wine1 imitated4 ,citron-,water1 from ,barbadoes4 ,cabbage-,pudding4 ,collar of ,mutton1 roasted4 ,cakes1 sweet1 made of ,parsnips4 ,ditto1 made of red ,beet-,roots4 ,comfits1 to make4 ,ditto1 to make in ,colours4 ,caviar1 to pickle or preserve4 ,collar of ,sturgeon roasted4 ,carp-,pye4 ,currans in ,syrup4 ,cakes1 baked1 of ,raspberries4 ,cakes1 of ,lemon4 ,clary and ,eggs4 ,cheese-,cakes1 of ,lemon4 ,ditto1 ,orange4 ,ditto1 ,good4 ,crab1 artificially made4 ,ditto1 another way4 ,crabs1 butter'd4 ,ditto1 artificial1 butter'd4 ,cherry-,brandy1 artificial4 ,ditto1 right4 ,cucumbers1 to stew4 ,ditto1 to farce4 ,cocks-,combs1 artificial4 ,calf's-,liver1 stuffed and roasted4 ,ditto1 another way4 ,cream-,custards4 ,capons ,livers imitated4 ,creams of ,raspberries4 ,cornelian ,cherries1 ,preserves ,ditto1 in ,marmalade4 ,currans in ,jelly4 ,cakes1 from ,lisbon4 ,cakes1 of ,orange4 ,cakes1 fine1 ,ditto1 from ,penzance4 ,ditto1 from ,northampton4 ,cow-,heel dress'd4 ,calf's-,head1 dress'd in a grand manner4 ,calf's-,head-,pye1 ,ditto1 baked4 ,creams1 artificial4 ,cream1 with ,sweet-meats4 ,cucumbers1 to preserve in the ,winter4 ,cologn's ,gin1 to make4 ,candy'd ,orange-,peel4 ,ditto1 ,lemon-,peel4 ,claret1 ,hermitage1 to imitate4 ,cheshire-,pye4 ,chicken1 to truss4 ,d4 ,damsons in ,jamm4 ,damson-,wine4 ,dog-,grass4 ,e4 ,eringo-,roots1 to candy4 ,easterling1 to truss4 ,extraordinary ,tables4 ,f4 ,fish1 to keep1 a long time4 ,fruit1 baked4 ,flounders1 dressed4 ,frogs1 white ,fricassee4 ,ditto1 brown ,fricassee4 ,florentine1 ,imperial4 ,farced-,meat4 ,g4 ,gravey1 drawn quick for a private ,family4 ,gravey1 rich1 made without ,flesh4 ,ginger-,roots1 preserv'd1 ,green4 ,goose1 to truss4 ,grapes1 preserved in ,syrup4 ,geneva1 from ,cologn1 to make4 ,gourmandine-,pease1 dress'd several ways4 ,ditto1 broil'd4 ,grape1 to keep the ,winter4 ,ginger1 to preserve4 ,green-,pease ,pottage4 ,gudgeons1 to dress4 ,grand ,sauce for ,fish4 ,goose1 boiled4 ,green-,peaches preserved4 ,goosberries1 preserved4 ,h4 ,hermitage-,wine1 to imitate4 ,hare-,pye4 ,hungary-,water1 to make4 ,hare1 to keep4 ,hard ,pease-,soup4 ,herrings1 pickled1 to serve4 ,hog's-,harslet roasted4 ,hartshorn ,jelly4 ,hash of raw ,beef4 ,hackin1 from ,cumberland4 ,ham1 ,westphalia1 roasted4 ,hams1 ,westphalia1 artificially made4 ,hog barbacued4 ,herrings1 broiled1 not to make sick4 ,hare to truss4 ,herrings1 baked in an extraordinary way4 ,k4 ,katchep1 in ,paste1 to make4 ,l4 ,lemons in ,marmalade4 ,lemon-,peels1 preserv'd in ,jelly4 ,lemon-,cakes4 ,lumber-,pye4 ,lap-,dog1 to keep in ,health4 ,liver and ,crow4 ,m4 ,mustard1 of several ,sorts4 ,mustard-,seed-,flour4 ,marmalade of ,peaches4 ,ditto1 of ,plums4 ,marygold-,flowers1 preserved4 ,marmalade of ,pine-,apples4 ,marmalade of ,quince4 ,mutton1 the ,neck in ,broth1 an extraordinary way ,mutton1 the ,neck ragou'd4 ,n4 ,neats-,tongues1 roasted ,o4 ,oysters1 fry'd4 ,oranges in ,marmalade4 ,orangery ,snuff4 ,orange-,butter4 ,onions1 boil'd4 ,ortolans1 to dress4 ,orange-,peels1 preserved in ,jelly4 ,orange-,flowers1 preserved in ,jelly4 ,orange-,tarts4 ,orange-chips4 ,oxen1 to kill and salt in hot ,weather4 ,p4 ,peach-,tarts1 white4 ,pepper ,mint-,water4 ,pidgeon1 to truss4 ,potatoe-,puddings4 ,provisions1 to take into the ,country4 ,plums1 dry'd with ,sugar4 ,plum-,porridge4 ,pyes1 minced1 or ,christmas-,pyes4 ,paste1 to make1 of all ,sorts4 ,plums1 dry'd4 ,pippin ,paste4 ,pine-,apples1 in ,marmalade4 ,pine-,apple-,tarts4 ,peach-,tarts1 red4 ,pheasant1 to keep sweet4 ,powder'd1 ,sauce4 ,pig1 to stew4 ,ditto1 to stew another way4 ,preservation of ,flesh from tainting1 ,plum1 ,marmalade4 ,pound-,cakes4 ,pudding1 six ,hours4 ,pidgeons1 embalm'd4 ,pidgeons1 preserved4 ,pippin-,tart4 ,pickled ,marygold-,flowers4 ,partridges1 to keep1 a long time in hot ,weather ,pheasant1 to truss4 ,q4 ,quinces1 preserved4 ,quince1 ,marmalade1 red4 ,ditto1 ,white4 ,r4 ,rum1 to make4 ,rum1 with ,amber4 ,rabbit trussed for ,roasting4 ,ditto1 for ,boiling4 ,ditto1 truss'd like a ,pheasant4 ,ditto1 to roast with ,mushrooms4 ,ditto1 to boil4 ,raspberry-,pudding4 ,ragout of ,tripe4 ,ratafia1 to make4 ,ditto1 artificial1 to make4 ,rabbits1 white ,fricassee4 ,s4 ,sturgeon1 cured4 ,sturgeon1 pickled4 ,ditto1 fresh1 to roast4 ,ditto1 fresh1 to boil4 ,ditto1 fresh1 in a ,pye4 ,sheeps-,tongues1 pickled4 ,smoaking-,closets1 for ,hams4 ,sorts of ,mustard4 ,shoulder of ,mutton roasted like ,venison4 ,syrup of ,mulberries4 ,syrup of ,raspberries4 ,sheeps-,trotters1 fricasseed4 ,sorrel-,tarts4 ,stew'd ,peaches4 ,stinking1 of ,flesh1 prevented4 ,stew'd ,wild-,ducks4 ,sea-,larks1 or ,oysters1 roasted on ,spits4 ,shoulder1 of ,mutton1 farced4 ,salmi1 or ,salmi-,gundy4 ,shropshire-,pye4 ,ditto1 another way4 ,seed-,cake4 ,sick ,lap-,dog1 to cure4 ,soles1 to stew4 ,scots ,snuff1 to make4 ,shropshire-,dish4 ,salmon-boiled4 ,soles1 fry'd4 ,snails1 fry'd4 ,snails1 with white ,sauce4 ,ditto1 with brown ,sauce4 ,sweet-meats1 candy'd1 ,syllabubs1 whipt4 ,spirit of ,lilly-of-the-,valley4 ,stew'd ,veal4 ,sauce for a ,bisque of ,fish4 ,t4 ,turkey-,poult1 to truss4 ,teal1 to truss4 ,tripe1 made of ,eggs4 ,tortoise1 or ,turtle1 the ,gibblets dress'd4 ,tortoise1 or ,turtle-,flesh1 to roast4 ,ditto1 in a ,pye4 ,turbut1 to dress4 ,tongue1 to roast4 ,tench1 boiled4 ,turnips1 from ,hertfordshire1 to dress4 ,turnips1 yellow1 from ,france1 to dress4 ,tables1 extraordinary1 for ,treats4 ,u4 ,vinegar1 to make4 ,usquebaugh1 the yellow sort4 ,usquebaugh1 the green ,sort4 ,verjuice4 ,umble-,pye4 ,venison1 to keep4 ,venison-,pasty4 ,venison1 boiled4 ,viper-,soup4 ,w4 ,wild-,ducks1 to keep4 ,wild-,ducks1 to recover from stinking4 ,wild-,duck1 to truss4 ,widgeon1 to truss4