,transcriber's ,note ,italic text displayed as3 italic ,bold text displayed as3 bold ,,madame ,,goubaud',s ,,needlework ,,books4 ,illustration3 ,decoration ,price #as41 postage #a;d4 ,,fashionable ,,and ,,useful ,,needlework4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,tatting ,patterns4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,embroidery ,patterns4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,crochet ,patterns4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,knitting and ,netting ,patterns4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,monograms1 ,initials1 c4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,point ,lace ,patterns4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,guipure d',art4 ,,larger ,,size ,madame ,goubaud's ,guipure ,work4 #bs4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,pillow ,lace4 #cs4 #f;d4 ,sold wholesale by all the ,newgate-street ,houses1 and many ,warehousemen in ,london and the ,provinces1 and to be had of all ,berlin and ,fancy ,shops4 ,price #f;d41 postage #a;d4 ,for ,young ,ladies at ,school ,home4 ,,needlework ,,instruction ,,books4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,berlin ,work ,instructions4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,embroidery ,instructions4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,crochet ,instructions4 ,madame ,goubaud's ,,trimmed ,,paper ,,patterns of all the ,,newest ,,modes of ,costumes1 ,robes1 ,jackets1 ,mantles1 ,sleeves1 ,underclothing1 and ,baby ,linen are accompanied by a ,flat ,paper ,pattern to cut out from1 and are sent to ,ladies by return post on receiving orders and remittances4--#cj1 ,henrietta-street1 ,covent-garden1 ,w4,c4 ,price #gs4 #f;d4 each1 postage #f;d4 ,,the ,,best ,,books ,,of ,,their ,,kind ,,in ,,the ,,world4 ,,beeton',s ,,household ,,books4 ,,mrs4 ,,beeton',s ,,household ,,management4 ,,beeton',s ,,book ,,of ,,needlework4 ,,beeton',s ,,book ,,of ,,garden ,,management4 ,,beeton',s ,,book4 ,,of ,,home ,,pets4 ,,beeton',s ,,law ,,book4 7,next ,month47 ,ward1 ,lock1 ,tyler1 ,warwick ,house1 ,paternoster ,row4 ,,wedding ,,outfits ,,and ,,baby ,,linen4 ,illustration3 ,french ,wove ,,corsets1 #ajs4 #f;d4 ,illustration3 ,,girls' ,,hats1 from #hs4 #f;d4 ,illustration3 ,,berceaunette in ,pretty ,rose-bud ,chintz1 #cjs4 ,muslin and ,lace1 like ,drawing1 #ejs4 ,fully fitted1 #c #ajs4 ,outfits to ,india1 ,outfits to ,china1 ,outfits to ,japan1 ,outfits to ,australia1 ,for #bj1 #dj1 #fj1 #ajj4 ,an ,,illustrated ,,price ,,list1 containing much information respecting ,wedding ,trousseaux1 ,indian and ,colonial ,outfits1 ,baby ,linen1 with various ,designs in ,nightdresses1 ,morning ,wrappers1 ,petticoats1 ,corsets1 ,crinolines1 c41 gratis and post free4 ,,caution4--,entered at ,stationers' ,hall4 ,,addley ,,bourne1 #cg1 ,,piccadilly1 ,w4 8,nowhere beats the heart more kindly ,than underneath the ,tartan ,plaid40 ,,macdougall ,,co41 ,,of ,,inverness1 ,manufacturers to ,her ,majesty1 ,and their ,royal ,highnesses the ,prince ,princess of ,wales1 and the ,courts of ,france1 ,russia1 ,prussia1 and ,spain1 ,respectfully solicit attention to their large and most varied assortment of real ,,scotch ,,highland ,,manufactures4 ,,the ,,highland ,,costume1 ,and the ,,costumes of ,,caledonia1 complete and correct1 as supplied to ,royalty and ,nobility4 ,the famous ,,highland ,,cloak1 an exclusive speciality4 ,,tweeds for ,country and ,town ,wear of the most varied texture and ,patterns for ,gentlemen's wear4 ,linsey ,woolseys of the ,newest ,shades ,patterns4 ,,scotch ,,serges1 ,,tweeds1 and ,,scotch ,,poplins for ,ladies' ,dresses4 ,an unrivalled selection of ,,shawls1 ,,plaids1 ,,cloaks1 ,,jackets1 c4 ,their famous 8,,flora ,,macdonald0 ,,cloaks2 also the new 8,,caledonia0 8,,lady ,,of ,,the ,,lake0 ,,cloaks4 ,the 8,,trossachs ,,plaid10 so favourably received4 ,tartan ,stockings for ,ladies and ,children to match all the ,clans1 in all sizes4 ,,scotch ,,yarns ,,of ,,every ,,description ,,for ,,knitting4 ,prices on the same moderate scale as our ,inverness ,house4 ,patterns and ,designs forwarded1 post free1 by applying to ,,macdougall ,,co4 ,,the ,,royal ,,tartan ,,tweed ,,warehouse1 #db1 ,,sackville ,,st4 7,,three ,,doors ,,off71 ,,piccadilly1 ,w4 ,,madame ,,goubaud',s ,,pillow ,,lace ,,book4 ,illustration3 ,,devonshire ,,lace-,,worker4 ,,madame ,,goubaud',s ,,pillow ,,lace ,,patterns1 ,,and ,,instructions ,,in ,,honiton ,,lace ,,making4 ,,numerous ,,illustrations4 ,,london3 ,,ward1 ,,lock1 ,,and ,,tyler1 ,,warwick ,,house1 ,,paternoster ,,row ,,preface4 ,in offering this little work upon ,honiton ,pillow ,lace ,making1 ,madame ,goubaud tenders her sincere thanks for the reception accorded to her volume upon ,point ,lace4 ,the great demand for ,pillow ,lace ,instruction and ,designs has induced ,madame ,goubaud to begin this1 the first of a series upon ,pillow ,lace ,making4 ,valenciennes1 ,bedford1 and ,maltese laces will follow in due course4 ,,contents4 ,,page4 ,,appliqu1 ,,honiton #eb ,,baby ,,cue #ba ,,beading ,,or ,,chain #dd ,,braid ,,work #aa ,,butterfly #ce ,,cross ,,cottons1 ,,to #cb ,,cue #ba ,,devonshire ,,turn #ai ,,diamond ,,fillings1 ,,to ,,join #db ,,double ,,stitch1 ,a #cf ,,fern ,,sprig #dg ,,half ,,stitch #ah ,,honiton ,,guipure ,,lace #ea ,,honiton ,,lace ,,stitch #bj ,,lace ,,pillows #i ,,lappet1 ,,lace #di ,,lerd ,,works ,,or ,,fillings #ch 0 ,,diamonds #dj 0 ,,square #db ,,maltese ,,cross #ag ,,materials ,,required ,,for ,,lace ,,working #i ,,old ,,violet ,,sprig #ca ,,one ,,rose ,,border #be ,,passements #aa1 #ac1 #ae ,,purl ,,edge #bh ,,purl ,,pin #bh ,,purl ,,pin ,,for ,,groundwork #cj ,,raised ,,work #cf ,,rose ,,border #bc ,,rose ,,sprig #cc ,,rose1 ,,shamrock1 ,,and ,,thistle ,,sprig #dc ,,sewings #bd ,,small ,,one ,,rose ,,sprig #cg ,,snatch ,,pin #bf ,,spade ,,border #da ,,sprigs1 ,,making ,,up ,,the #dh ,,stem ,,work #cd ,,stem ,,work ,,and ,,leaves #ag ,,the ,,tulip ,,sprig #bi ,,throwing ,,and ,,tying #bd ,,to ,,form ,a ,,pattern #bb ,,to ,,join #ch ,,trefoil ,,pattern #de ,,turkey ,,tail #bg ,,whole ,,stitch #af ,,pillow ,,lace4 ,the materials required for ,honiton ,pillow ,lace work are neither numerous nor expensive4 ,a pillow1 two dozen bobbins1 some lace thread1 a needle-pin1 a pair of blunt scissors1 and a few pricked patterns or passements1 and lace pins are all the requisites for this useful and beautiful work4 ,the pillows are made and sold at moderate prices by ,mrs4 ,mitchell1 a ,devonshire lace worker1 at ,long ,dean-street room in the ,soho ,bazaar1 ,oxford-street4 ,mrs4 ,mitchell supplies bobbins1 thread1 passements1 and all requisites1 as well as gives lessons in pillow-lace making4 ,the pillows can be obtained with plain or handsome covers and cloths1 and with wooden1 ivory1 or ornamental bobbins4 ,learners will find it useful to have their leading bobbins ornamented1 in distinction to the plain1 until they have acquired the art of working ,honiton lace4 ,for braid-work ,mecklenburg thread is used2 ,no4 #h is a useful size to begin with for ,honiton lace1 ,no4 #h and #ab or #ad for very fine work2 ,no4 #h is quite fine enough for beginners to manage4 ,the pillows are always sent out fitted up1 but to change one design for another proceed as follows3-- ,unpin the cloths1 remove the passement2 firmly pin down the new passement with plain1 not lace1 pins2 replace the cloths1 attach the bobbins to a pin about three-quarters of an inch from the place intended to begin at1 divide the bobbins into three parts1 and loosely plait down to the first pinhole1 insert a pin and work on as before4 ,nos4 #a1 #b1 #c4--;,braid ,works and ,passement4 ,no4 #a shows a pretty braid for point lace work2 this braid consists of whole stitch and pearl4 ,no4 #b is the passement or pricking for a shamrock spray4 ,no4 #c is a simple braid in whole stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #a4--;,braid-work4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #b4--,shamrock ,passement4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #c4--;,braid-work4 ,the first lesson usually given in pillow lace making is the braid work2 the learner is at first puzzled by the number of fine bobbins1 but if it is remembered that only four are used together1 and that the plain or whole stitch is only weaving or plaiting across and back again1 the difficulty vanishes4 ,braid ,work4 ,mecklenburg linen thread1 ,no4 #h1 six pairs of bobbins4 ,for braid work three pairs of leaders are required4 ,one pair of leaders remains on each side separated by a pin2 work across and back again with the third pair thus3--,work across1 twist1 make a stitch1 twist twice1 pin1 work back1 twist twice1 make stitch1 twist twice1 pin1 and repeat as before4 ,the lace pins are made expressly for the lace-workers in ,devonshire1 and are sold in the old-fashioned paper rows4 ,nos4 #d and #e4--,passements4 ,no4 #d is the passement or pricked design for a spade4 ,no4 #e is the passement of an old-fashioned sprig formerly much in vogue among ,honiton lace workers1 now seldom seen4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #d4--,spade ,passement4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #e4--,old ,sprig ,passement4 ,the passements are pieces of brown parchment1 having the exact glazed pattern pricked out on them as shown on pages #aa1 #ac1 and #ae4 ,ladies can easily prick them from the illustration4 ,to prick from lace itself it is necessary to keep the lace in proper position and to place a pin in every pinhole along the outlines1 to mark any crossed threads by a pinhole1 and to show where lerd or lead-works occur by the same means4 ,great accuracy is necessary for this work1 as all the beauty of the lace depends on the correctness of the prickings4 ,position in ,working ,pillow ,lace4 ,devonshire workers usually sit on low chairs with their feet on the back rail of another chair1 resting their pillow against the back of the chair4 ,ladies will find that they can work most comfortably seated on an ordinary chair with their feet on a footstool1 and resting the pillow against a table4 ,nos4 #f and #g4--,passements4 ,these are the passements for two useful lace sprays4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #f4--,old ,sprig ,passement4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #g4--,turkey ,tail ,passement4 ,whole or ,plain ,pillow ,lace ,stitch4 ,four bobbins4 ,no4 #h ,mecklenburg thread4 ,in order to explain this stitch we must have recourse to numbers1 and mark the bobbins ,no4 #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 ,no4 #a being the left-hand bobbin4 ,pass ,no4 #c between ,nos4 #a and #b2 pass ,no4 #a over ,no4 #c2 pass ,no4 #b over ,no4 #d1 and pass ,no4 #d between ,nos4 #c and #a4 ,nos4 #a and #b are the leaders1 so called because they lead across and back1 weaving the whole or plain stitch across1 and in the pairs of leaders which form the edge in lace braid and lace patterns4 ,when one stitch is completed1 the two left-hand bobbins are dropped and two bobbins taken from the right hand to make with the two leaders the four bobbins necessary for each stitch4 ,care must be taken that the bobbins are not twisted1 but that they lie each in its proper place4 ,in beginning work across from left to right of the pillow and back again4 ,nos4 #h and #i4--,maltese ,cross and ,stem ,work4 ,no4 #h is a ,maltese cross entirely executed in whole or plain pillow lace stitch4 ,this is a modern ,honiton design4 ,no4 #i is an enlarged illustration of stem work and leaves4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #h4--,maltese ,cross4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #i4--,stem ,work and ,leaves4 ,half ,stitch4 ,mark the bobbins #a1 #b1 #c1 #d1 as for whole stitch4 ,pass ,no4 #c between ,nos4 #a and #b1 pass ,no4 #a over ,no4 #c1 pass ,no4 #b over ,no4 #d1 leaving ,no4 #d alone1 and continue with the next bobbins as in learning whole stitch4 ,it will be observed that half stitch is worked like whole stitch except the last movement of passing ,no4 #d between ,nos4 #c and #a2 to this omission the stitch owes its name4 ,half stitch is used largely for the lighter parts of ,honiton lace1 and is shown mixed in the rose1 page #dc4 ,devonshire ,turn or ,wheel ,to wind the threads on the bobbins a turn or wheel is used4 ,no4 #aj shows a ,devonshire turn4 ,the thread or cotton is always wound from right to left1 and a loop is made to prevent the bobbin from unwinding4 ,on gentle pressure the thread unwinds1 but will hang in place perfectly if the loop is made properly4 ,all the bobbins should be kept at the same length from the pillow to which they are attached4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aj4--;,devonshire ,turn4 ,honiton ,lace ,stitch4 ,honiton lace thread1 ,no4 #h or ,no4 #ab 7,no4 #h for beginners71 nine pairs of bobbins1 one pair bobbins of ,mecklenburg thread ,no4 #ab1 three pairs of leaders1 one ,mecklenburg thread bobbin next each of the side leaders4 ,work the third pair of leaders across1 twist three times plain stitch 7the plain stitch is worked with the leaders at each side left and right71 twist three times1 insert pin1 work back1 twist three times1 one plain stitch1 twist three times1 pin4 ,this stitch is used for most of the ,honiton patterns1 and the learner will observe that it is the same as braid work1 p4 #ab1 only the leaders twist three times instead of twice4 ,no notice is taken of the ,mecklenburg thread bobbins3 the leaders work over and under these as with the ordinary bobbins4 ,nos4 #aa and #ab4--;,cue ,borders4 ,no4 #aa4--,the cue border is worked from stem to stem1 with #g pair4 ,take up a sewing with pins on either side4 #h or #i bobbins are used1 according to if cottons are worked or not4 ,no4 #ab4--;,baby cue is worked in the same manner4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #aa4-;,cue ,pattern4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ab4--8;,baby-,cue0 ,pattern4 ,to ,form a ,pattern4 ,when the whole art and mystery of whole and half stitch are acquired so as to be executed with mechanical ease1 the learner is naturally anxious to make some use of her work1 and to form a pattern4 ,the trefoil design1 ,no4 #h1 is excellent to begin with1 as it is less intricate than many others4 ,in forming a pattern it will be observed that the outer edge of the design has more pinholes than are in the inner ring of the same design4 ,the mode of decreasing the number of pinholes is as follows3--99 ,after making the stitch1 working across to the out rim and returning1 take out the last pin of the inner circle and use it for the next pinhole stitch1 thus making one pinhole and pin serve for two stitches4 ,after this variation in the work1 work backwards and forwards in the usual way before repeating from 994 ,no4 #ac4--,rose ,border4 ,no4 #ac shows a rose border1 worked with #g pairs without cottons1 #h pair with1 commencing at the stem4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ac4--,rose ,border4 ,to ,take ,up a ,sewing4 ,to perform this delicate operation a needle-pin is required2 this needle-pin is a fine long needle placed in a wooden handle4 ,the real ,devonshire needle-pin is said to be a ,no4 #h needle stuck in a lucifer-match4 ,with the needle-pin draw the thread through the edge of the lace1 pass the nearest bobbin through the loop thus formed1 tie1 and work on as before4 ,throwing and ,tying4 ,these terms are used to express the mode of finishing off any part of a sprig or design4 ,to effect this3--,take up two leaders and tie them in a plain knot1 lay them out right and left1 throw all the bobbins in between them again1 tie in a plain knot1 and either cut off the bobbins or work on as directed4 ,no4 #ad4--,one ,rose ,border4 ,no4 #ad4 one-rose border1 is a succession of rose sprigs worked with seven pairs of bobbins without cotton1 is begun at the stem4 ,for one-rose sprig1 see ,no4 #bj4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ad4 ,small 8,one ,rose0 ,border4 ,snatch ,pin4 ,snatch pin is used for joining the sprigs1 and is worked by the yard1 and sewn on the sprigs as required in common ,honiton lace1 but in best ,honiton the sprays are joined with snatch pin on the pillow4 ,take four or five pairs of bobbins1 according to the width required1 and work across1 then twist six times1 insert a pin under one pair only1 work back to the left again1 at the end twist six times as before1 and repeat4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #ae4--,turkey ,tail4 ,commence first leaf with #i pairs1 including cotton1 at the end of leaf cut out #b pairs with cotton1 working up the stem with #g pairs of pins1 set up on left side for the inside ring #h pairs with cottons1 tie the ends2 take up a sewing1 throw #h1 tie1 for the next row of #h pair as before1 taking up a sewing at each centre pinhole for the next item round #g pair1 taking up a sewing at every centre pin as before for the loops round #i pairs including cotton2 likewise #i pair for leaves to finish1 throwing and tying at end of every leaf4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ae--,turkey ,tail ,sprig4 ,purl ,pin4 ,purl pin or purling is used for connecting points of the design and for joining sprigs4 ,take five or six pairs of bobbins1 or four pairs for very fine work4 ,work across1 twist the last two pairs three times1 work a stitch1 twist each pair three times1 place the purl pin--that is1 take up the last thread on the pin by putting the pin under it--towards the worker1 and then in the pinhole1 and lay the bobbin at the right hand1 cross the other leader over it the same way1 twist three times1 work a stitch three times each pair1 and work away as before1 repeating the purl pin on the opposite side4 ,purl ,edge is worked exactly in the same manner as purl pin1 the pins being set up on one side only1 the other worked as in ,honiton lace stitch1 page #bj4 ,if the purl pin looks too loose1 work a second whole stitch with the last pairs on the opposite side4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #af4--,tulip ,sprig4 ,no4 #af shows the very pretty tulip pattern1 which is a useful sprig worked in whole stitch and beading1 see page #af4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #af4--,tulip ,sprig4 ,purl ,pin for ,filling in ,groundwork4 ,work across plainly from the left1 cross the leaders three times before coming to the last pair1 stitch1 cross three times each1 put a pin under the last bobbin1 under and towards you1 the other crossed over the same way1 cross three times1 stitch1 cross three times each1 and work as before4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #ag4--,old ,violet ,sprig4 ,no4 #ag1 old violet sprig1 is exceedingly easy to work1 being composed of whole stitch4 ,the only difficulty in this sprig is the square filling in the centre1 but careful attention to the directions given on page #db will ensure neat work4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ag4--,old ,violet ,sprig4 ,to ,cross ,cottons4 ,the rose on page #cc clearly shows the effect of this crossing1 which adds much to the effect of the work4 ,take up all the centre pairs1 omitting the two pair leaders on each side1 cross the ,mecklenburg thread bobbins from right to left1 insert a pin in the pinhole under where they are crossed1 lay the centre pairs down again1 and work away as before4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #ah4--,rose ,sprig4 ,this beautiful sprig is worked in whole stitch1 half stitch1 and with diamond fillings or lerd works4 ,begin in the centre1 and work the inner ring1 then work the outer ring in whole or half stitch alternately1 working a plaid edging on the outer side of the ring1 and taking up sewings on the inner side4 ,fill in lerd work as directed on page #ci4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ah4--,rose ,sprig4 ,stem ,work requires two pairs of leaders1 in all six pairs of bobbins and ,no4 #h thread1 or seven pairs of bobbins with ,no4 #ab thread4 ,work across from left to right4 99 ,twist three times1 work a stitch1 pin1 twist three times after inserting the pin1 work across plainly1 and again repeat from 994 ,it will be observed that the pinhole is used on one side only1 on the other a double stitch alone is made without twistings or pin4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #ai4--;,butterfly4 ,this butterfly belongs to modern ,honiton designs1 and is worked in whole stitch1 stem work1 and raised work1 with diamond filling4 ,for raised work see page #cf4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ai4--;,butterfly 7,modern ,honiton74 ,a ,double ,stitch is a term used for the last stitch of one row and the first of the next when no pin is inserted and no twisting used1 as at the end of ordinary rows4 ,raised ,work4 ,for a raised leaf work up the stem with seven pairs of bobbins1 turn the pillow round and work back with nine or ten pairs according to the width of leaf1 pins set up on one side1 sewings taken up on the stem4 ,examples3-- ,fern ,leaf4--,work up the stem with plain stem-work1 turn the pillow round1 come down again with pins and sewings1 then plait each as far as the point of the other leaf1 sewing1 throw and tie and come back as before4 ,each raised veining to be done in the same way till you get to the bottom of the fern4 ,butterfly4--,chain1 work one pin each side1 crossing the two leaders from one side to the other1 and work as before4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #bj4--,small ,one ,rose ,sprig4 ,this easy sprig is worked in stem work1 whole stitch1 beading1 and diamond fillings4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bj4--,small 8,one ,rose0 ,sprig4 ,to ,join4 ,take a pair from each lerd mesh1 make a stitch1 put up a pin1 make a stitch1 cross three times in readiness for the next lerd work and work on with two pins as before4 ,sewings are taken up at each side of the space to be filled4 ,these lerd works are worked in rows4 ,lerd ,works or ,fillings4 ,lead or lerd works or fillings are the names given by ,devonshire workers to the fine delicate work which composes or fills up the centre of the flowers4 ,these fillings are of two kinds1 diamond and square fillings4 ,the diamond filling is the easiest of the two kinds1 only good workers being able to work square fillings properly4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #ba4--,violet ,sprig4 ,this violet differs from the old violet sprig1 and is often preferred on account of the speed with which it can be worked4 ,work the leaf first1 then the close stem work1 and finally the flower1 taking up sewings at all parts joining each other4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #ba--,violet ,sprig4 ,diamond ,fillings4 ,begin with #d bobbins1 as in learning the whole stitch1 and number as before--#a1 #b1 #c1 #d4 ,take up ,no4 #b1 hold it loosely1 but do not let it go1 in the left hand1 ,no4 #d over the thread1 ,no4 #c up over it1 ,no4 #a out1 forming a plait--,,in1 ,,up1 ,,out4 ,moving the ,no4 #b as you go1 leaving the others lying in place on the cushion except when actually moving them as directed1 draw up on the two outside threads1 ,nos4 #a and #d1 and work on until you come to the pinhole4 ,twist twice1 put in a pin1 twist both pairs twice1 work a stitch1 twist twice4 ,as many two pairs of bobbins must be used as the space requires to fill properly2 the fillings are worked in rows1 each two pair working separately4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #bb4--,spade ,border4 ,an easy border worked in whole stitch1 pearl edge1 and stem work4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bb4--,spade ,border4 ,to ,join the ,diamond ,fillings4 ,twist each pair twice and work plainly across2 twist each pair twice and lay out the pairs again as on beginning4 ,square ,fillings4 ,two pairs of bobbins2 increase as required according to the size of space to be filled2 one pair of bobbins4 ,take up a sewing1 pass the bobbin through1 take a second pair of bobbins2 99 work #ab stitches as shown in diamond fillings4 ,take up a sewing and pass through as before4 ,leave the right-hand pair until the next lerd work is done2 repeat from 99 with the next two pairs4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #bc4--,rose1 ,shamrock1 and ,thistle4 ,this group is of modern ,honiton design1 and is worked in whole stitch1 half stitch1 raised work1 square1 stem work1 fillings1 in short1 combines all ,honiton lace stitches4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bc4--,rose1 ,shamrock1 and ,thistle ,sprig4 7,modern ,honiton47 ,no4 #bd4--;,beading or ,chain4 ,beading is chiefly used as a band or finish for lace4 ,it is placed round the neck of collars1 and serves as a band by which they are tacked to the chemisette or to the dress itself4 ,it is used as insertion for ribbon velvet to thread over and under in cheap made-up sets of ,honiton lace4 ,use #h or #aj pairs of bobbins1 according to the size of the cotton employed4 ,divide the pairs of bobbins 991 and lay one-half quite away for the sake of clearness4 ,these bobbins will be called ,no4 #b1 and those about to be used ,no4 #a4 ,work across with ,no4 #a and back in the usual way until #b pins are set up1 as in stem-work1 lay ,no4 #a bobbins aside4 ,take up ,no4 #b1 and work backwards and forwards as before until #b pins are set up on ,no4 #b's side4 ,then work across twice as in plain braiding1 so as to connect the two sets of bobbins2 repeat from 994 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #be4--,trefoil ,pattern4 ,this simple pattern is so easy that beginners readily master it in one lesson4 ,it is whole stitch alone without a pearl edge4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bd4--;,beading4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #be4--,trefoil ,pattern4 ,no4 #bf4--;,fern ,pattern4 ,work up the stem with plain stem work1 turn the pillow round1 work down again leaf by leaf with pins and sewings1 plait up to the point of the leaf1 taking up sewings1 throw and tie and come back as before1 each raised sewing to be worked in this way throughout the whole leaf4 ,leaves of any tree or plant may be copied in ,honiton lace1 by taking a careful outline1 marking the sewings1 c41 working the shadowed portion of the leaf in whole stitch1 the lighter in half1 and the veinings in raised work4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bf4--;,fern ,pattern 7,modern ,honiton74 ,making up the ,sprigs4 ,honiton lace is made up or joined in three different ways--by purling1 by rseau ground1 and by application on net4 ,for all these modes a paper shape is cut and the sprigs are arranged with great care right side downwards4 ,the purling is sewn1 as we have already stated1 on inferior ,honiton lace2 in all superior pieces it is joined on the pillow4 ,rseau ground is in imitation of ,brussels net worked by hand1 as shown in ,no4 #bg4 ,it is worked stitch by stitch4 99 99 99 99 99 ,no4 #bg4--,lappet in ,honiton4 ,this lappet is an illustration of the mode of making up the sprigs4 ,the one-rose sprigs are first tacked on blue paper of the exact shape required1 the butterfly is placed in position1 the fern sprig added1 and the little stem work sprig shown above and at the side of the butterfly4 ,the whole is then joined and filled in by a rseau ground in ,brussels lace stitch4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bg4--,lappet in ,honiton ,lace4 ,no4 #bh4--;,honiton ,guipure ,lace4 ,no4 #bh shows a beautiful specimen of ,honiton guipure lace1 designed and worked by ,mrs4 ,treadwin1 of ,exeter1 who has done more to win a taste for artistic1 natural forms than any other ,english lace designer4 ,the lace exhibited by ,mrs4 ,treadwin in #ahfb fully sustained the reputation of ,honiton lace1 and bore comparison with the most beautiful productions of ,france and ,belgium4 ,the specimen of guipure lace ,no4 #bh is composed of various sprigs of natural flowers and leaves joined on the pillow with purling4 ,common ,honiton guipure is joined with purling worked by the yard and sewn on1 instead of being worked in on the pillow1 as in this specimen4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bh4--;,honiton ,guipure ,lace4 ,no4 #bi4--;,honiton ,appliqu4 ,appliqu is the term given to this mode of joining ,honiton sprigs4 ,the ground is composed of ,brussels net laid over the pattern prepared as above stated4 ,every outline of the lace is carefully sewn to the ,brussels net2 the net is afterwards cut away as shown in illustration ,no4 #bi4 ,it is advisable that ladies should receive one or two lessons in lace-making of ,mrs4 ,mitchell1 who is a quick and clever teacher1 and whose charges are extremely moderate4 ,some ladies very soon master every class of lace work1 but a lesson will frequently prevent much loss of time and patience4 ,illustration3 ,no4 #bi4--;,honiton ,appliqu4 ,,the ,,only ,,house ,,in ,,england ,,for ,,the ,,exclusive ,,sale ,,of ,illustration3 ,,genuine ,,irish ,,poplins ,,inclis ,,tinckler #afg1 ,,regent ,s,t4 ,w4 ,,patterns ,,post ,,free4--,,dresses ,,carriage ,,free4 ,,manufactory--#g #h1 ,,eustace ,,st41 ,,dublin4 ,,the ,,best ,,house ,,in ,,the ,,kingdom ,,for ,,choice ,,needlework ,,materials4 ,,mesdames ,,le ,,boutillier1 #abe1 ,,oxford ,,st41 ,,london1 ,w4 ,this establishment is perhaps the only one in ,london where ladies may rely upon obtaining les plus hautes nouveauts in every kind of ,needlework1 and meeting with as prompt attention by correspondence as by a personal visit4 ,,lessons ,,given ,on the following essential ,branches of ,needlework3-- ,,lace ,,making ,,in ,,every ,,style4 ,,point ,,lace4 ,,cluny ,,lace4 ,,br,,ton ,,work4 ,,borderie ,,au ,,pass4 ,,crochet4 ,,knitting4 ,and every other kind of ,needlework4 ,,pillows ,,for ,,honiton ,,or ,,pillow ,,lace1 #es41 #gs4 #f;d41 #ajs4 #f;d4 each4 ,,patterns ,,of ,,flowerings ,specially designed and prepared for working4 ,as the ,,silkworm says--8,the house of ,mesdames ,le ,boutillier is full of delightful objects for the work-table1 and for the easy decorations of drawing-room and boudoir40--,englishwoman's ,domestic ,magazine4 ,,mrs4 ,,samuel ,,jay1 ,,ladies' ,,outfitter1 #bei1 ,,regent ,,circus1 ,,oxford ,,st41 #bei4 ,,specialities ,,for ,,the ,,spring ,,months4 ,,toilettes ,,du ,,matin4 ,these graceful ,morning ,dresses are composed of finest ,print1 elegantly trimmed with contrasting ,colours1 beautifully made in the latest style4 ,price #acs4 #f;d4 each ,dress4 ,,opinions ,,of ,,the ,,press4 8,although the spcialit of this house is first-class underclothing1 ,mrs4 ,jay keeps a nice assortment of plain goods1 all hand-sewn1 made of the best materials1 in good style1 but untrimmed1 or very plainly trimmed4 ,ladies may confidently order their sets of under-linen1 feeling sure that the needlework could not be neater or stronger even if made at home under their immediate care and supervision40 8,for graceful but useful toilettes du matin ,mrs4 ,s4 ,jay is without a rival40 ,,piqu ,,costumes1 ,long and ,short1 elegantly ,trimmed with ,black all ,colours1 #cas4 #f;d4 ,,new ,,cru ,,petticoats ,for ,spring ,costumes4 ,,infants' ,,layettes4 ,,marriage ,,trousseaux4 ,,good ,,materials--,,tasteful ,,trimmings--,,dainty ,,stitches4 ,,mrs4 ,,samuel ,,jay4 ,,mrs4 ,,mitchell1 ,,soho ,,bazaar1 ,,gives ,,lessons ,,in ,,pillow ,,lace ,,making ,,of ,,every ,,description4 s4 d4 ,lessons1 each #e #j ,pillow #e #f ,bobbins 7filled7 per dozen #b #j ,bobbins1 per dozen #a #j ,thread1 per skein #b;d4 and #j #c ,turns #aj #f ,pillows and ,materials for ,working1 entirely fitted1 with ,instructions and ,patterns1 #ajs4 #f;d42 sent to any part4 ,all kinds of ,lace ,cleaned1 ,transferred1 and ,repaired4 ,illustration3 ,,window-,,stand ,,made ,,from ,,virgin ,,cork4 ,virgin ,cork sold by the ,london ,lisbon ,cork-wood ,co 7,limited7 #bh ,upper ,thames ,st ,london ,illustration3 ,,three ,,pieces ,,of ,,virgin ,,cork ,,as ,,taken ,,from ,,the ,,tree4 ,,london ,,lisbon ,,cork ,,company1 #bh1 ,,upper ,,thames ,,st41 ,,london4 ,illustration3 ,,bracket ,,and ,,flower-,,pot ,,made ,,from ,,virgin ,,cork4 ,it is easily fastened with nails or wire to ,framework or ,boxes1 and1 if desired1 can be varnished with oak varnish2 small pieces1 to cover crevices or for little ornaments1 can be secured with sticks of gutta-percha1 melted in the flame of a candle or gas4 ,it can be made into rustic ,picture ,frames for ,hunting ,scenes1 c4 ,,crystal ,,palace4--,a 8,grotto10 with ,ferns1 a 8,swiss ,scene10 and a 8,picture ,frame0 can be seen in the ,south ,transept of the ,crystal ,palace1 adjoining the ,industrial ,court4 ,from the 8,englishwoman's ,domestic ,magazine40 8,the ,virgin ,cork supplied by the ,london and ,lisbon ,cork-wood ,company is taken from the ,company's forests in ,portugal1 and is a delightful substitute for the old tree-roots and logs of wood ordinarily used in making a fernery4 ,it presents exactly the appearance required1 as it looks like moss-grown wood2 it is light1 and easily carried by ladies1 as easily held in position by a nail2 it is porous1 and not only absorbs1 but retains moisture--a quality invaluable to fern-growers40 ,from the 8,floral ,world and ,garden ,guide40 8,it is sold by the ,company at a remarkably cheap rate1 and is unsurpassed for forming an inside lining to summer-houses and grottoes2 indeed1 for this purpose it is impossible to say too much in its praise4 ,it is light1 clean1 and durable2 indeed1 the common bark used for this purpose bears no comparison with it40 ,from the 8,villa ,gardener40 8,for balconies1 where lightness of material is always a desideratum1 this ,cork is invaluable1 and it can be had in designs as varied as can be conceived4 ,we can have it manufactured into bridges1 flower-stands1 rustic houses in glass1 brackets for standing plants upon and for window-boxes40 ,from the 8,best of ,everything40 8,there are few prettier ornaments for a sitting-room than stands made from the first bark stripped from the ,cork tree4 ,this has been recently introduced into this country for garden purposes1 for which it has proved to be admirably adapted1 more particularly for growing ferns1 orchids1 and other plants of a similar nature4 ,in appearance it resembles moss-grown wood1 and no doubt will supersede those stands in imitation of bark made of terra-cotta now so much used for fern-cases1 flower-stands1 c40 ,,london ,,and ,,lisbon ,,cork ,,company1 #bh1 ,,upper ,,thames ,,street1 ,,london4